2K/s1 HP ■■■■ BHHffi * TART I. PV1' I 25 CENTS. C. SHIELDS, Printer, 45 Maiden-Lane, JN.Y. > ,:"<-y,'r<.^ s N3 \ i 3 L_ EXTRACT OF INSTRUCTIONS ADDRESSED BY THE SECRETARY TO THE GOVERNMENT OF BOMBAY TO CAPTAIN W. C. HARRIS. Bombay Castle, 24th April, 1841. Sir, I am directed to inform you, that the Honorable, the Governor in Council having formed a very high estimate of your talents and acquirements, and of the spirit of enterprise and decision, united with prudence and discretion, exhibited in your recently published Travels " through the territories of the chief Moselekatse to the tropic of Capricorn," has been pleased to select you to conduct a Mission which the British Government has resolved to send to Sahela Selassie, the King of Shoa in Southern Abyssinia, whose capital, Ankober, is computed to be abou* four hundred miles inland from the port of Tajiira on the African coast. The Mission will be conveyed to Aden in -the Honorable Company's steam frigate Auckland, now under orders to leave Bombay on the 27th instant ; and it nas been arranged that one of the Honorable Company's vessels of war, at present m the Red Sea, shall be in readiness to convey the Mission thence to Tajiira, at which latter place it should immediately disembark, and commence its journey to Ankober. (Signed) J. P. Willoughby, Secretary to Government, To Captain W. C. Harris, Corps of Engineers. THE EMBASSY WAS THUS COMPOSED: Captain W. C. Harris, Bombay Engineers. Captain Douglas Graham, Bombay Army, Principal Assistant. Assistant-Surgeon Rupert Kirk, Bombay Medical Service. Dr. J. R. Roth, Natural Historian. Lieutenant Sydney Horton, H. M. 49th Foot — as a Volunteer. Lieutenant W. C. Barker, Indian Navy. Assistant-Surgeon Impey, Bombay Medical Service. Mr. Martin Bernatz, Artist. Mr. Robert Scott, Surveyor and Draftsman. Mr. J. Hatchatoor, British Agent at Tajiira. Escort and Establishment : Two sergeants and fifteen rank and file ; volunteers from H. M. 6th Foot, and from the Bombay Artillery. An Assistant Apothecary. Carpenter. Smith. Two Tent Lascars. INTRODUCTION Written in the heart of Abyssinia, amid manifold interruptions and disadvantages, the following pages will be found redolent of no midnight oil. Their chief recommendation must be sought in the fact of their embodying a detail of efforts zealously directed under the auspices of a liberal government, toward the establishment of a more intimate connection with a Christian people, who know even less of the world than the world knows of them — toward the extension of the bounds of geographical and scientific knowledge, the advancement of the best interests of commerce, and the melioration of the lot of some of the less favored portions of the human race. An obvious necessity for the introduction of the foregoing extract from his instructions, will exonerate the Author from an intention to appropriate as his due the very gratifying encomium passed upon his previous exer- tions in Southern Africa. As a public servant, the freedom of his pen has now in some measure been curtailed ; but his official position and resources, added to the able assistance placed at his command, have, on the other hand, extended more than commensurate advantages. To Captain Douglas Graham, his accomplished and early friend, and principal assistant, he acknowledges himself most especially indebted, for the aid of a head and of a pen, such as are not often to be found united. The exertions of Assistant-Surgeon Kirk alleviated incalculable human suffering ; and his perseverance, although long opposed by an unfavorable climate, carried through a series of magnetic and astronomical observa- tions of the highest importance to Abyssinian geography. An indefatigable devotion to the cause of science, added to the experi- ence gained during previous wanderings in Palestine, eminently adapted the learned Dr. Roth to discharge the arduous functions of natural histo- rian to the Mission ; and the splendid collection realized, together with the researches embodied in the various appendices to these volumes, will afford the fullest evidence of his industry and success. 2* vra INTRODUCTION. To all who were associated with himself in view to the better attainment of the objects contemplated, the Author here offers his warm acknowledg- ments for the cheerfulness displayed under trials and privations. Of the able assistance of some he was unavoidably deprived during an early period of the service. The disappointment thus involved in his own person has been fully equal to that experienced by themselves ; but they must be sensible that their hardships have not been undergone in vain, and that they too have accomplished their share in the undertaking so far as for- tune permitted. To the Reverend Dr. Krapf the thanks of Government have already been conveyed, for the valuable cooperation derived from his extended acquaintance with the languages of Abyssinia. But the Author gladly avails himself of this opportunity publicly to record his personal sense of obligation to the active and pious Missionary of the Church of England. By np tribute of his own could the writer of these volumes extend the well-deserved reputation of M'Queen's Geographical Survey. It will nevertheless be satisfactory to one who takes rank among the foremost benefactors of the oppressed " children of the sun," to receive the additional testimony which is due to the undeviating accuracy of theories and con- clusions founded upon years of patient and honest investigation ; and thi3 \he Author unhesitatingly records, in so far as the north-eastern portions of Africa have come within the observation of the Embassy which he has the honor to conduct. Ankober, 1st January, 1843. POSTSCRIPTUM. The length of time that has unavoidably elapsed between the prepara- tion and the appearance of these volumes, needs no apology. They must not now be suffered to go forth without the expression of the Author's gratitude for the assistance derived during their progress through the press, from the talents and literary taste of his friend Major Franklin Lushington, C. B. >T THB HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA,-^ ETC. CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY FROM THE SHORES OF INDIA. It was late on the afternoon of a sultry day in April, which had been passed amid active preparations, when a dark column of smoke, streaming over the tall shipping in the crowded harbor of Bombay, proclaimed t necessity of a hurried adieu to a con- .0 se of friends who still thronged the ; and scarcely was the last wish for bu' .ess expressed to the parties that had arked, before the paddles performed their firsi revolution, and the Honora- ble East India Company's steam-frigate "Auckland," bound upon her maiden voy- age, shot through the still blue water. A turbaned multitude of manifold relig- ions had lined the pier and the ramparts of the saluting-battery, to pay a parting tribute of respect to their late governor, Sir James Rivett Carnac, who, with his lady and family, was now returning to his native land. On board also were the offi- cers and gentlemen composing an embassy organized under instructions by the gov- ernment of India. More than a fortnight had been diligently passed in the equip- ment of this mission ; but its objects, no less than the destination of its innumera- ble bales and boxes, still served as puzzles to public curiosity; and many a sapient conjecture on the subject was doubtless launched after the bounding frigate as she disappeared amid the haze of the closing day. Immortal Watt ! sordid is the man who places his foot behind the Titanic engines which owe their birth to thee, and who would withhold, as an offering to the altar of thy memory, a mite, according to his worldly means, wherewith to erect a fab- ric colossal as the power enthralled by thy transcendent genius! Strange are the revolutions undergone in affairs nautical since the introduction of the marine steam- engine upon the Indian seas. The creak- ing of yards has given place to the cough- ing and sobbing of machinery, as it heaves in convulsive throes. Tacking and wear- ing have become terms obsolete, and through the clang of the fire-doors, and the ceaseless stroke of paddle-wheels, the voice of the pilot is rarely heard, save in conjunction with " Stop her," or " Turn a-head." Marked by a broad ploughed wake, the undeviating course pursued through the trackless main was demonstrated midway of the voyage by a tall pillar of smoke from the funnel of the " Cleopatra," rising against the clear hot horizon, like a genie liberated from his sealed bottle, to pro- claim the advent of the English mails. The deep blue sea was glassy smooth, 14 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Each passing zephyr set from Araby's shores ; but, heedless alike of wind and opposing current, the good ship steadily pursued her arrow-like flight — passed the bold outline of Socotra. redolent of spicy odors — and before sunset of the ninth day was within sight of her destined haven, one thousand six hundred and eighty miles from the port she had left. Cape Aden was the bold promontory in view, and it had borrowed an aspect even more sombre and dismal from a canopy of heavy clouds which stole across the naked and shattered peaks, to invest the castle- capped mountain with a funereal shroud. Crossed by horizontal ledges, and seamed with gaps and fissures, Jebel Shemshan rears its turreted crags nearly eighteen hundred feet above the ocean, into which dip numerous bare and rugged buttresses, of width only sufficient to afford footing to a cony, and each terminating in a bluff in- accessible scarp. Sand and shingle strew the cheerless valleys by which these spurs are divided, and, save where a stunted balsam, or a sallow clump of senna, has struggled through the gaping fissure, hol- low as well as hill is destitute of even the semblance of vegetation. " How hideously Its shapes are heaped around, rude, bare, and high, Ghastly, and scarred and riven ! Is this the scene Where the old earthquake's demon taught her young Ruin 1 Were these their toys ? — or did a sea Of fire envelope once this dismal cape?" Rounding the stern peninsula, within stone's-cast of the frowning headlands, the magnificent western bay developed its broad expanse as the evening closed. Here, with colliers and merchantmen, were riding the vessels of war composing the Red Sea squadron. Among the iso- lated denizens of British Arabia, the un- expected arrival of a steam-frigate created no small sensation. Exiles on a barren and dreary soil, which is precluded from all intercourse with the fruitful, but bar- barous interior, there is nothing to alle- viate a positive imprisonment, save the periodical flying visits of the packets that pass and repass betwixt Suez and Bom- bay. In the dead of night, the sudden glare of a blue light in the offing is an- swered by the illumination of the block- ship, heretofore veiled behind a curtain of darkness. The double thunder of artil- lery next peals from her decks ; and as the laboring of paddle-wheels, at first faint and distant, and heard only at broken in- tervals, comes booming more heavily over the waters, the spectral lantern at the mast-head is followed by a red glow under the stern, as the witch, buffeting a cascade of snowy spray, vibrates to every stroke of the engine, and leaving a phosphoric train to mark her even course, glides, hissing and boiling, toward her anchorage. Warped alongside the blockship, the din- gy hull's lean over like affectionate sisters that have been long parted ; and, flinging their arms together, remain fast locked in each other's embrace. And who are these swart children of the sun, that, like a May-day band of chimney- sweeps, are springing with wild whoops and yells over the bulwarks of the new arrival } T is a gang of brawny Seedies, enfranchised negroes from the coast of Zanzibar, whose pleasure consists in the transhipment of yonder mountain of coal, lying heaped in tons upon the groaning deck. To the dissonant tones of a rude tambourine, thumped with the thigh-bone of a calf, their labor has already com- menced. Increasing the vehemence of their savage dance, they heave the pon- derous sacks like giants busied at pitch and toss, and begrimed from head to foot, roll at intervals upon the blackened planks, to stanch the streaming perspiration. Thus stamping and howling with increased fury, while the harsh notes of the drum peal louder and louder to the deafening vehe- mence of the frantic musician, they pursue their task, night as well as day, amid clamor and fiendish vociferations, such as might suggest the idea of furies engaged in unearthly orgies. In the first burst of their revelry, the spectator is happy to es- cape from the suffocating atmosphere of impalpable coal-dust: and rarely does it happen, that for every hundred tons of fuel received, fewer than one life is forfeited by the actors in the wild scene described — some doomed victim, swollen with copi- ous draughts, and exhausted by the frenzy of excitement, invariably casting himself down, when his Herculean task is done, to rally and rise up no more. CHAPTER II. DISEMBARKATION AT CAPE ADEN. Quitting the boisterous deck of the steamer, and pulling toward the shores of Arabia, a cluster of barren rocks, which might fitly be likened to heaps of fused coal out of a glass furnace, present an appear- ance very far from inviting or prepossess- ing. They are little relieved by a few straggling cadjan buildings, temporarily VOLCANIC PENINSULA—ADEN. 15 occupied by those whose avocations enable Jiem, during the summer months, to fly the intolerable heat of .the oven-like town. But under the roof of Captain Stafford Haines, who fills the honorable and re- sponsible post of political agent, there awaited the embassy, on its landing, a hos- pitality of no ordinary stamp. It literally knew no bounds, and could not fail to ob- literate, at once, any unfavorable first im- pression arising out of the desolate aspect bestowed by Dame Nature upon " Steamer Point." A volunteer escort of European artille- rymen was 'yet to be obtained from the garrison of Aden ; horses, too, were to be purchased, and sundry other indispensable preparations made for the coming journey into the interior of Africa. During a full- week there seemed no termination to the influx of bags containing dates, rice, and juwarree, and scarcely a shorter period was occupied in the selection from the govern- ment treasury of many thousand star-dol- lars of the reign of Maria Theresa, dis- playing, each in its turn, all the multifarious marks and tokens most esteemed by the capricious savage. Neither was the bustle one whit diminished by the remote position of the town, which, unless through the kindness of friends, is only to be attained on the back of one of the many diminutive donkeys stationed along the beach for the convenience of the stranger. Encumbered with a straw-stuffed pack-saddle far ex- ceeding its own dimensions, the wretched quadruped is zealously bastinadoed into a painful amble by the heavy club of some juvenile Israelite with flowing auburn ringlets, whose chubby freckled cheeks, influenced by the sultry sun no less than by the incessant manual labor employed, are wont to assume a strongly excited ap- pearance ere the journey be at an end. Along the entire coast of Southern Ara- bia, there is not a more remarkable feature than the lofty promontory of Aden, which has been flung up from the bed of the ocean, and in its formation is altogether volcanic. The Arab historian* of the tenth century, after speaking of the volcanoes of Sicily and in the kingdom of the Maha Raj, alludes to it as existing in the desert of Barhut, adjacent to the province of Nasa- fan and Hadramaut, in the country of Shaher. " Its sound, like the rumbling of thunder, might then be heard many miles, and from its entrails vomited forth red-hot stones with a flood of liquid fire." The skeleton of the long-exhausted crater, * Mosudi. once, in all probability, a nearly perfect circle, now exhibits a horse-shoe-shaped crescent, hemmed in by splintered crags, which, viewed from the turreted summit of Jebel Shemshan especially, whence the eye ranges over the entire peninsula, pre- sents the wildest chaos of rock, ruin, and desolation. From the landing-place at Ras Marbut, a tortuous track of five miles conducts past the coal-depot and Seedie location, along various curvatures of the arid coast, to the cantonment and toWn of Aden. " Sublime- in barrenness," the rugged and lofty cliffs pile themselves upward in masses of the most fantastic shape, now bare and bald, shooting into perpendicular spires, and" now leaning over the caravan of heavily- laden camels, that toil along the path. The sunshine of perpetual summer reigns throughout the scene. Glittering sand- hills slumber in breezy dimness around the land-locked harbor ; and over the faint peaks of Yemen's distant mountains, the unclouded sky floats bright and blue. The sparkling waters leap against the dark base Of the naked islets ; but the wide, glassy surface beyond, reposing like abroad lake, is only ruffled by the circling eddy which follows the sportive plash of the bottle- nosed porpoise, or the pluming of a fleet of silver-winged terns, riding quietly at anchor on its tranquil bosom. As the road retires from the beach, the honey-combed cliffs assume the similitude of massive walls and battlements, everywhere pierced with loopholes and embrasures. A gradual ascent leads through a craggy portal, brist- ling with cannon, and guarded by the pa- cing sentinel. One narrow rift in the solid rock, to the foot of which the sun rarely penetrates, forms an abrupt division in the chain ; and beyond it the eye suddenly embraces the basin-like valley, wherein stands the decayed capital of Arabia Felix. "Aden," saith old Ibn Batuta of Tan- giers, "is situate upon the sea-shore — a large city, without either seed, water, or tree." Five hundred years have elapsed since this graphic account was penned, and the vegetation has in nowise improved. An amphitheatre of dimensions sufficient for the devil's punch-bowl, is formed by two volcanic rangfis, once in connection, but obviously rent asunder, heaved out- ward, and canted in opposite directions by some violent eruption, that has forced an opening to the ocean. A sterility which is not to be surpassed, invests the scene with an aspect most repulsive and forbidding. No tree varies the dreary pros- pect, no shrub relieves the eye ; not even 16 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. a flower lends its aid to enliven the wild and gloomy hollow, the fittest refuge that the imagination could picture for the law- less and the desperate. Fortifications are to be traced on every point either liable to assault or eligible for defence : ruined cas- tles and watch-towers, perched on the highest elevations of the precipitous hills, stand the now inaccessible guardians of other days ; and even the limited view to seaward, where the passing white sail of a small coasting craft, or the catamaran of the amphibious fisherman may occasion- ally be seen, is partially screened by a .tri- angular rock, which frowns like a great spectre over the inner harbor. Seerah, " the fortified black islet," is said to have been the residence of Cain, "the first-born of a woman," after the murder of his brother Abel ; and, verily, it would be dif- ficult to devise a more appropriate exile for the banished fratricide. Hurled into the sea by a convulsive shock, it is sur- rounded by pumice and by currents of ob- sidian, the products of volcanic emission, strewed among vast undulating waves of cavernous lava ; or mingled with black masses of porous rock, which bear evi- dence of fusion, and yield to the touch a metallic sound. Sterility has indeed claimed this dreary region as her own ; and even in the more productive portions of the peninsula, little verdure is derived from the almost leaf- less besham, the balsa??wdendron opobalsa- mum, a dwarf shrub, which, according to the Arab tradition, formed a part of the present carried to King Solomon by the Queen of Sheba, from the aromatic re- gions of myrrh and frankincense. Where incisions are made in its stem, the far- famed balm of Mecca flows copiously; but the volatile oil quickly evaporating, leaves a tasteless, insipid gum. Nursed by no periodical shower, and by no hidden spring, the precious plant, scorched by a withering blast, derives its only moisture from the mists which envelope the moun- tain-top, when all is sunshine below. Among the most singular features of the cape, is the supply of water, which is found only in the valley of Aden, close under the cliffs, and at the openings of the fissures from the steppes above. Here, piercing to a great depth through the solid rock, are upward of one hundred wells ; many dilapidated and choked up, but oth- ers, yielding an abundant and unfailing supply. Whence or in what manner they are fed, it is extremely difficult to conjec- ture. All near the beach are bad, and more or less brackish ; some are sensibly affected by the tides, and very saline; while of those which afford sweet water, one only is visibly acted upon by some lower spring. It is excavated at the en- trance of a dark gorge, rent by some vio- lent convulsion in the rugged bosom of Shemshan ; and the surface, which is in a state of constant commotion, remains at the same level, although daily drawn upon from morning till night, for the supply of thousands. The almost total absence of the vegetable kingdom considered, it is not surprising that there should exist also a palpable defi- ciency in the animal creation. In perhaps no other quarter of the universe are the spar- row and the crow such perfect strangers. The pigeon, the fox, and the rat, divide the sovereignty of the rocky cleft ; and the serrated heights are held without a rival by a garrison of monkeys. With these long-tailed occupants of the tower-capped pinnacles, are connected wondrous super- stitions; and an Aden tradition, extant throughout Southern Arabia,* would ex- alt them into the remnant of the once powerful tribe of Ad, " a people great, and strong, and tall," who are believed to have been metamorphosed into apes, in token of the displeasure of Heaven, when Sheddad, " the king of the world," illustrious in the annals of the East, impiously sought, in de- fiance of the prophet Hud, to create unto himself a garden which should rival the celestial paradise. The Bostan el Irera, with its gorgeous palaces and shining domes, the similitude whereof had never been constructed on the regions of this earth, is said to be yet standing in the sol- itary deserts of Aden, although miracu- lously concealed from mortal ken. Within the silent walls of its lofty tow r ers, did Ab- dallah ibn Aboo Kelaba pass his night of wonder during the reign of Moawiyeh, prince of the faithful ; and it is believed by every good Moslem that this marvellous fabric of human skill and impiety, which finds a record in the sacred Koran, will endure until the last day, an imperish- able, but rarely revealed, monument of Divine retribution. * Lieutenant J. C Cruttenden, assistant to the polit- ical agent at Aden, heard the same version repeated at Saana, the capital of Yemen ; which far-famed city he has been the rirst European to visit, since the days of Niebuhr. ADEN BAZAAR— ISHMAELITES. 17 CHAPTER III. A STKOLL THROUGH THE INFANT METROP- OLIS OF BRITISH ARABIA. A uniform system of architecture per- vades the houses of Aden, nearly all of which would appear to have arisen out of the ruins of former more extensive edi- fices, now buried far below the surface of the accumulated soil. Tiers of loose un- dressed stone are interlaid, instead of mor- tar, with horizontal bands of timber ; the walls thus traversed being perforated with pigeon-holes to serve as windows, and surmounted by a low parapet concealing the terraced roof. Many, occupied by the more wealthy, have attained to a third story ; but nearly all are destitute of or- nament. This is now restricted to the de- cayed palace of the sultans of Yemen, where " in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, Doing his evil will." In the thick coating of cement with which the shattered edifice is still partially in- crusted, are the remains of various raised devices ; and a profusion of open fretwork in wood is still observable, interspersed with latticed cornices, comprising choice sentences from the Koran. The shops of Parsee and Mohammadan merchants already extend an assortment of European commodities to the notice of the visitor ; and in a bazaar, infested like other fish-markets by a legion of cats, are exposed sharks and a variety of the finny tribe. Water from the sweetest well is hawked about in dirty skins, instead of the lemonade and sherbert of large oriental towns ; and piles of fruit, drugs, dates, molasses, and, other abominations, present the same amount of flies, and no abate- ment of the compound of villainous smells, by which the booth of the shrewd and avaricious Gentoo is so invariably distin- guished. In the suburbs, the frail cadjan wigwam of the Arab and Somauli population, im- part the undeviating aspect of the port- able encampment of the nomade hordes. The tattered goat-hair awning of the bare- footed pilgrim to the shrine at El Medina is here ; and low crazy cabins of matting or yellow reeds are so slenderly covered in with the leaves of the palm, as to form but a scanty shelter against the intolerable heat and dust occasioned by periodical olasts of the fiery shimal. Daring his dismal reign, the sun has shone fiercely over the extinct crater of Aden, and the relentless shower of dust and pebbles has kept the inhabitants with- in their rude dwellings. But as the de- clining rays cast a lengthened shadow across the narrow alleys, and the hot puffs, abating in violence, are succeeded by a suffocating calm, the hitherto torpid popu- lation is to be seen abroad. That bronzed and sun-burnt visage, surrounded by long matted locks of raven hair, — that slender, but wiry and active frame, — and that en- ergetic gait and manner, proclaim the untamable descendant of Ishmael. He nimbly mounts the crupper of his now unladen dromedary, and at a trot moves down the bazaar on his way back to the town of Lahedge. A checked kerchief around his brows, and a kilt of dark blue calico about his loins, comprise his slen- der costume. His arms have been depos- ited outside the Turkish wall, which stretches its barrier across the isthmus from sea to sea, where flying parties of the Foudthli still infest the plain ; and as he looks back, his meagre ferocious aspect, flanked by that tangled web oi hair, stamps him the roving tenant of the desert. The Arab has changed neither his char- acter nor his habits since the days of the patriarchs, and he affords a standing evi- dence of the truth of the scriptural pro- phecy. He regards with disdain and with indifference every other portion of man- kind, for who can produce so ancient mon- uments of liberty as he who, with little intermission, has preserved it from the very Deluge ? Is the land of his ances- tors invaded ? A branch torn by the priest from the venerated nebek,* having been thrust into the fire, is quenched in hot blood welling from the divided throat of a ram, which has only the moment before been slaughtered in the name of God the one omnipotent. Dripping with the crim- son tide, the emblem is solemnly delivered to the nearest warrior, who hies him forth with this his summons for the gathering of the wild clans. Down from their rocky fastnesses pour the old and the young, the untried stripling, and the stern veteran with a thousand scars. On, on speeds the messenger with the alarum of coming strife. Transferred from hand to hand, it rests not in the grasp of any ; and in a few brief hours, thousands of wild spirits, calling upon Allah for victory, and thirst- ing for the blood of the foe, have muster- ed around the unfurled standard of their prophet. * A tree bearing a fruit like the Siberian crab. 18 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA Thus it was that the numerous hill-forts and strongholds studding- the rich province of Assyr, which borders on the Holy Land of the Moslem, last poured forth their hordes to meet the invader of her fair plains, and the despoiler of her countless flocks. Sixteen thousand warriors, com- posing one of the most ancient as well as bravest of the Arab tribes, cast aside spear and falchion, and, armed only with the deadly creese, stole during the night upon the camp of the insatiate Egyptian, and slaughtering the greater number, drove Ibrahim Pacha, with the wreck of his ar- my, to seek safety in precipitate flight to Hode'ida. In yonder fat and sensual money-chang- er from the city of Surat, is presented the very antipodes to the posterity of Hagar. In drowsy indolence, see him emerge from his treasures of ghee and groceries, among which, scales in hand, he has been pa- tiently squatted since earliest dawn at the terrace of his booth, registering his gains in the daily ledger. Not one spark of animation is there. A dark slouching tur- ban, and ample folds of snowy drapery, envelope the sleek person of the crafty Hindoo, and his lethargic motions render it difficult to comprehend how he should have contrived to exile himself from his native soil, and in such a forbidding spot, even in pursuit of his idol, Mammon. Ajan and Berbera, famous for their early connection with the Greek kings of Egypt, have both contributed largely to the popu- lation that now throngs the street. The regular and finely-turned features of those Somauli emigrants from the opposite coast are at once selected from the group, al- though some have disguised their hair un- der a thick plaster of quicklime, and oth- ers are rendered hideous by a wig of fiery red curls ; while the dyed ringlets of a third have faded to the complexion of a housemaid's mop, and a fourth, forsooth, is shaven because his locks have been pulled in anger.* All present a curious contrast to the jet black skin and woolly pate of the Suhaili, who, in his turn, is destitute of the thick, pouting lip, which adorns that stalwart Nubian, swaggering like a great bully by his side. At the door of those cadjan cabins, which resemble higglers' crates, not less in size than in form and appearance, groups of withered Somauli crones are diligently weaving mats, bask- ets, and fans, of the pliant date-leaf; and their laughing daughters, yon tall, slim, * It is the practice of the Somauli to shave the head when thus insulted, and to make a vow that the hair shall not grow again until they have had their revenge. and erect damsels with the earthen pitch* ers above their plaited tresses, present, on their way up from the well, some of the comeliest specimens of the ebon race. 11 Honesty," saith the Arab proverb, " is found only among poor fools." The Be- douin has for ages been celebrated for his ingenuity and daring, and the African off- set is nothing behind the parent stock. A Somauli thief is perhaps " the cunningest knave in the universe." He has been known to cut away a pile of tobacco so as to leave to the merchant who reposed thereon, nought but the effigy of his own figure : and after entering through the roof of a house, the burglar has taken his exit through the door with chests of treasure, from the top of which the sleeping proprie- tor has been first hoisted, with his bed, by a tackle lowered through the aperture, and so left hanging until the morning ! Muffled in a Spanish mantilla, see the - spouse of the bigoted Islam taking the air upon the crupper of a donkey, her fat face so scrupulously concealed, that nothing of it is visible save two sloe-black eyes, which glitter through perforations in the white" veil, and impart a similitude to the horned owl. On the rude steps of the clustering habitations that she has passed, surrounded by rosy-cheeksd urchins, are seated nu- merous dark-eyed and well-dressed Jew- esses. Rachel, although discreet, and' preserving the strictest decorum, is unveil- ed. Were it possible to prevail upon her* to have recourse to daily ablution, in lieu of the hebdomadal immersion which cele- brates her Sabbath eve, her complexion would not be less fair than that of the na- tive of Southern Europe ; and in the well- chiselled features and aquiline profile of the brunette, are preserved all those mark- ed peculiarities which in every part of the world distinguish the scattered daughters of Israel. The children of the tribe of Judah are most completely identified with the soil' of Aden, and may be regarded as the artisans and manufacturing population. Victims, heretofore, of the tyranny and intolerant persecution which the infidel has ever to expect at the hand of the true believer, they toiled and accumulated, but feared lest a display of the fruits of their labor should excite the cupidity of a rapacious master. Now their prospect has brighten- ed, and the remnant of a mighty though fallen and dispersed people, no longer ex- ists here in poverty and oppression, insult- ed and despised as they have always been in every part of the Eastern world ; but in uninterrupted security ply their industrious THE GIBRALTAR OF THE EAST. 19 occupation, and under British protection fearlessly practice those rites which have been religiously preserved from the time that their priests bore aloft the ark of the covenant. Stone slabs with Hebrew in- scriptions mark the resting-place of the de- parted ; schools witness the education of the rising generation ; and men and wo- men, arrayed in their holiday apparel, sit apart in the synagogue, to listen, at each return of their Sabbath, to the law which had been read since " by way of the wil- derness out of the Red Sea" their fathers "went up harnessed out of the land of Egypt." CHAPTER IV. THE GIBRALTAR OF THE EAST. Aden, in its history and reverses, pre- sents the type of many a mighty nation — it flourished and has fallen. As it once stood, it was the maritime bulwark of Ara- bia Felix. So early as the reign of Con- stantine the Great, it was celebrated for its impregnable fortifications, its extended traf- fic, and its attractive ports. Here the camels of the Koreishites were laden with a precious cargo of aromatics. Here com- merce first dawned ; and little more than two centuries and a half have rolled away since the decayed city ranked among the most opulent emporia of the East. Its de- cline is only dated from the close of the illustrious reign of Suleiman the Magni- ficent ; but the spider has since " weaved her web in the imperial palace, and the owl has stood sentinel upon the watch- tower." In the eyes of the true believer, the cape U hallowed by the tradition that it was honored with the preaching in person of that arch impostor, "the last of all the prophets," who, with the sword in one hand and the Koran in the other, became the lawgiver of the Arabians, and the founder of an empire which in less than a century had spread itself from the Pyrenees to the Indus. Three hundred and sixty mosques once reared their proud heads, and eighty thousand inhabitants poured into the field, an army which accomplished the subjuga- tion of El Yemen. This latter, famous from all antiquity for the happiness of its climate, its fertility and surpassing riches, became an independent kingdom at the pe- riod that Constantinople fell into the hands of Mahomet the Second. Aden frequent- ly cast off its allegiance ; and when the Turks, by means of their fleet built at Su- ez, rendered themselves masters of the northern coast of the Red Sea, they found the peninsula independent, under the Sul- tan of Foudthli. Turkey and Portugal, struggling for supremacy in the East, hotly contested its possession ; but, being unable longer to maintain their rivalry, it finally reverted into the grasp of its ancient mas- ters. Great natural strength, improved by the substantial fortifications which had been carried by Sultan Selim completely round the zone of hills that engirds the town, now rendered it the fittest of all retreats for the piratical hordes of the desert ; and the lawless sons of Ishmael, scouring the ad- jacent waters, loaded their stronghold with booty. But after the loss of government, Aden could not be expected to retain its opulence. Its trade passed into the rival port of Mocha, and grinding oppression caused the removal of the wealthy. At the period of the British occupation, ninety dilapidated houses, giving shelter to six hundred impoverished souls, were all that remained to attest its ancient glories. The town lay spread out in ruin and desolation, and heaps of stone, mingled with bricks and rubbish, sternly pointed to the grave of the mosque and tall minaret Few fragments now survive the general decay, to record the high estate of the once populous metropolis, or reveal the magni- ficence it could formerly boast in works of public utility. The chief buildings are be- lieved to have been situated ten miles in- land, and to have been swallowed up by the ever rising, never ebbing, tide of the desert. The red brick conduit of Abd ei Wahab can still be traced from the Durab el HoraVbi, whence it stretches to Bir Om- heit, upward of eight miles, across a now dilapidated bridge. Here are numerous wells, which supplied the reservoirs ; but, "like the baseless fabric of a vision," every vestige of an edifice has vanished. Among the most perfect and conspicu- ous relics of the past are the laborious and costly means adopted to insure, in so arid and burning a climate, a plentiful supply of water. In addition to the wells, three hundred in number, the remains of basins of great magnitude are found in various directions ; and in the Valley of Tanks are a succession of hanging cisterns, form- ed by excavations in the limestone rock. These are lined with flights of steps, and supported by lofty buttresses of imperish- able masonry, forming deep reservoirs of semi-elliptical form, which still blockade every channel in the mountain side, and 20 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. once served to collect the precious drops from heaven, when showers doubtless fell more abundantly than at the present day. In the extensive repositories for the dead, too, may be found assurances of the former population of Aden. Many of the count- less tombs in the Turkish cemetery were of white marble, and bore on jasper tab- lets elaborately-sculptured inscriptions sur- mounted by the cap and turban ; but the greater number of these pillared monu- ments have either disappeared or been overthrown. Of the evidences of Moham- madanism that once graced the city, nearly all lie buried from sight beneath heaps of accumulated rubbish and debris, the remo- val of portions of which has disclosed many curious coins of remote date. The mina- ret of Menaleh. and a tottering octagon of red brick, attached to the Jama el Musjid, lone survivors of the wreck, still point to the sky ; and of the few mosques that have been spared by the destroying hand of time, the principal is that of the tutelar saint of the city, beneath the cupola of which, in- vested with a pall of crimson silk, and in- shrined in the odor of sanctity, repose the venerated remains of Sheikh Hydroos. An excellent zigzagged road, imperfect- ly paved, and raised in parts to the height of twenty feet, extends from the base to the summit of Jebel Shemshan, and, with some few of the disjointed watch-towers, has defied the ravages of centuries. Three enormous pieces of brass ordnance, pierced formed them, excellent, capacious, and se- cure. Important commercial advantages can- not fail to accrue from the occupation of so secure an entrepot, which at any sea- son of the year may be entered and quitted with equal facility. The readiest access is afforded to the rich provinces of Hadra" maut and Yemen, famous for their coffee, their frankincense, and the variety of their gums, and abounding in honey and wax, of a quality which may vie with the pro- duce of the hives of the Mediterranean. A lucrative market to the manufactures of India and Great Britain is also extended by the facilities attending communication with the African coast, south of Bab el Mandeb, where the high mountain ranges bordering upon the shore are clothed with trees producing myrrh, frankincense, and precious gums, while the valleys in the interior pour forth for export, sheep, ghee, drugs, dry hides, gold dust, civet, ivory, rhinoceros horns, peltries, and ostrich fea- thers, besides coffee of the choicest, growth. A wide field is open for mercantile specu- lation, and it is not a little pleasant to con- template the approaching improvement of Christian Abyssinia, and the civilization of portions of Africa even more benighted and remote, through the medium of inter- course with British Arabia. Under the flag of old England, Aden has enjoyed a degree of happiness and security never previously experienced, even in the for a sixty-eight pound shot, and covered i days of her greatest glory, when she ranked with Turkish inscriptions, were the chief symbols of the former strength of this east- ern Gibraltar. These were transmitted to England, when their capture, shortly after the present accession, avenged an insult offered to her flag, and wreathed the first laurels around the brow of her youthful Queen. In general aspect the cape is not dis- similar from the volcanic islands in the among the foremost of commercial mart.-s in the East, and when vessels from all the known quarters of the globe thronged her boasted roadstead. Emigrants from the interior as well as from the exterior of Hadramaut and Yemen, and from both shores of the Red Sea, are daily crowding within the walls to seek refuge from grind- ing oppression, and to free themselves from the galling burthen beneath which Grecian Archipelago, and viewed from a i they have long groaned at the hand of in- distance it appears separated altogether from the mainland. The long dead flat of sand by which it is connected with the Arabian continent, rising on either beach scarcely two feet above high water mark, induces the belief that the promontory must on its first production in early ages have been insulated. According to the evidence of the present generation the sea is still receding, and the sand steadily ac- cumulating; but the noble western bay will not be affected for many centuries. Though the glory of Aden may have fled, and her commerce become totally annihi- lated, her ports will long remain as nature satiate native despots. The amazing in- crease of population and the crowded state of the bazaars form subject for high admi- ration. In the short space of three yeafea the census has been augmented to twenty thousand souls ; substantial dwellings are springing up in every direction, and at all the adjacent ports, hundreds of native mer- chants do but await the erection of per- manent fortifications in earnest of intention to remain, to flock under the guns with their families and wealth. Emerging thus rapidly from ruin and degradation, the tide of lucrative commerce, both from Africa and Arabia, may be confidently expected PASSAGE OF THE GULF. 21 o revert to its former channel. Blessed by a mild but firm government, the decayed mart, rescued from Arab tyranny and mis- rule, will doubtless shortly attain a pinna- cle far eclipsing even its ancient opulence and renown; and Aden, as a free port, while she pours wealth into a now impov- erished land, must ere long become the queen of the adjacent seas, and take rank among the most useful dependencies of the British crown. CHAPTER V. VOYAGE ACROSS THE GULF OF ARABIA. Eight bells were " making it twelve o'clock" on the 15th of May, when the boatswain piped all hands on deck to weigh the anchor, and within a few min- utes the Honorable Company's brig-of-war " Euphrates," having the embassy on board, and commanded by one of its mem- bers,* set her white sails, and, followed by three large native crafts freighted with horses and baggage, stood across the Ara- bian Gulf. A favorable breeze pressed her steadily through the yielding bosom of the ocean. The salt spray flew under her gal- lant bows ; and as the hospitable cadjan roofs on Steamer Point, first in order, and then the jagged pinnacles, forming the spider skeleton of Aden, sank gradually astern, each individual of the party des- tined to traverse the unknown wilds of Ethiopia, took the pilgrim's vow that the razor should pass no more over his beard, until his foot had again rested on civilized shores — an event not unreasonably con- jectured to be far distant for all, and for some destined never to be realized. The breeze increasing, the low sandy promontory of Ras Bir on the African coast became visible during the forenoon of the following day ; and before evening, not- withstanding a delay of some hours, caused by an accident to the mainyard o* one of the tenders, which obliged her to be taken in tow, the brig was passing a group of eight coral islands, elevated about thirty feet above the level of the sea. The re- mainder of the fleet having parted com- pany during the night, were now perceived standing directly for Mushahh, the nearest of these islets, situated at the mouth of the Gulf of Tajiira, and divided from the Da- ttakil coast by a fathomless channel of seven miles. An iron messenger dispatch- ed to bring the convoy to, ricochetted over * Lieutenant Barker, Indian Navy. 1* the blue water, kicking up a column of white spray at every bound ; and before the smoke of the gun had cleared the bul- warks, a bald pate protruded between the rigging, was followed by the swarthy per- son of Aboo Bekr, of the Somauli tribe Aboo Salaam, and commonly styled Dara- bili, or " the Liar." Nakhuda of a small trading craft, which had been employed as a pilot-boat during the recent trigonome- trical survey of the coast, he was well known to the officers of the " Euphrates," and was ascertained to be at this moment charged with dispatches to Aden, which, whether important or otherwise, had been during three days lying safely at anchor off the island, to admit of enhanced profits by the collection of a cargo of wood. "Salaam aleikum!" exclaimed the old Palinurus, as soon as his foot had touched the deck ; " Hamdu lillah ! Praise be unto God ! it is you, after all. When I saw those two crazy tubs in your van, I believed that it could not be my old ship, although it loomed up so vastly like her ; but the moment you took in your studding-sails to let Aboo Bekr come alongside, I knew it must be the Capitan Bashi. Kayf halut, how fares it with your health ?" The welcome visitor was forthwith ac- commodated with a chair on the poop; into which having squeezed himself with difficulty, he drew up his knees to his scanty beard, inserted a cigar into his mouth as a quid, and, sipping tea like a finished washerwoman, instituted a train of inquiries relative to the position of af- fairs in the British possessions across the water. " Tayyib, tayyib," he ejaculated, when thoroughly satisfied that Cape Aden was not again in the hands of the Arabs. " Marhabba, it is well. All, too, is as it should be at Tajiira. Misunderstandings are adjusted, and the avaricious chieftains have at last, the Lord be praised ! got all the dirt out of their bellies. Their palms have been judiciously tickled, and it only now remains to be seen whether the old sultan, who is fully as fond of money as his neighbors, or his ancient rival, Mo- hammed Ali, is to have the honor of for- warding the English to King Saloo. My boy has just returned from Habesh, and shall escort you. Abroo has been twice in Bombay, as you know, capitan. You have only to tell me if he should misbe- have, and I '11 trounce the young scamp soundly." Meanwhile, the bold mountain outline of the land of promise, forming a worthy barrier to the unexplored treasures of the 22 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. vast continent of Africa, had been rapidly emerging from obscurity, and the brown forbidding bluff, styled Ras Dukhan, " the smoking promontory," in height about five or six hundred feet, was now on the star- board quarter ; its abrupt summit, as usual, surmounted by a coronet of fleecy clouds, from which, if not from the thermal well at its base, this cape has probably derived its appellation. The brig was already standing up the bay of Tajiira ; but dark- ness overtaking her, it was resolved to lay to until daybreak ; and a gun fired in inti- mation of our approach, was presently an- swered by a display of rockets and blue lights from the Honorable Company's schooner "Constance," riding at anchor in the harbor. The Arabs lay claim to the invention of the compass ; and Aboo Bekr, who believed himself in truth a second Anson, was pro- vided with one, which must certainly have been the first ever constructed. Age having impaired the dilapidated needle, it was forced off its pivot by a quantity of pepper-corns, which are here considered highly efficacious in the restoration of de- cayed magnetic powers. From the native navigators in the Indian Ocean, he had borrowed a primitive nautical instrument for determining the latitude ; nor was he a little vain of his practical skill as an ob- server. Through a perforation in the centre of a plane of wood, in size and shape like a playing card, was passed a knotted whipcord ; and the distance from each knot was so regulated, that the sub- tended angle should equal the altitude of the polar star at some frequented point on the coast. The knot having been placed between the teeth, and the lower margin of the plane brought in optical contact with the horizon, the position of Polaris must be observed with reference to the upper edge ; when, if it be above, the de- sired haven is known to be to the south- ward — if below, to the northward, and the course is shaped accordingly. " I '11 take you in this very night, Capi- tan Bashi, if you so please," resumed the pilot, whose packet had by this time es- caped his recollection altogether. "Only give me the order, and, praise be unto Al- lah ! there is nothing that Aboo Bekr can- not do. My head, as you see, is bald, and I may perhaps be a little old-looking now ; but wait until we get on shore, and my new wig is bent : Inshallah ! I shall look like a child of five years among the young- est of them " " Now, if we had but Long Ali of Zeyla on board," continued the old man, whose merry tongue knew no rest ; " if we had only Two-fathom Ali here, you would not make all these difficulties. When they want to lay out an anchor, they have no- thing else to do but to hand it over to Ali, and he walks away with it into six or eight feet without any ado. I went once upon a time in the dark to grope for a berth on board of his buggalow, and stumbling over some one's toes, inquired to whose legs they belonged : ' Ali's,' was the reply. ' And whose knees are these ?' said I, after walking half across the deck. 'Ali's.' ' And this head in the scuppers, pray whose is it ?' * Ali's, to be sure,' growled a sleepy voice \ ' what do you want with it]' ' Sub- han Allah, Ali again !' I exclaimed ; ' then I must even look for stowage elsewhere.' " Dawn of the 17th revealed the town of Tajura, not a mile distant, on the verge of a broad expanse of blue water, over which a gossamer-like fleet of fishing catamarans already plied their busy craft. The tales of the dreary Tehama, of the suffocating shimal, and of the desolate plains of the blood-thirsty Ada'iel, were in that moment forgotten. Pleasure sparkled in every eye, and each heart bounded with exulta- tion at the near prospect of fulfilling the benevolent schemes in design, and of add- ing one mite to the melioration of Afric's swart sons. Those who are conversant with Bur- chell's admirable illustration of an en- campment of Cape farmers, with their gigantic wagons scattered about in pictu- resque confusion, will best understand the appearance of the group of primitive habi- tations that now presented itself on the sea-beach. Exceeding two hundred in number, and rudely constructed of frames of unhewn timber, arranged in a parabolic arch, and covered in with date matting, they resembled the white tilts of the Dutch boors, and collectively sheltered some twelve hundred inhabitants. The bold gray mountains, like a drop-scene, limited the landscape, and, rising tier above tier, through coral limestone and basaltic trap, to the majestic Jebel Goodah, towering five thousand feet above the ocean, were enveloped in dirty red clouds, which imparted the aspect of a morning in the depth of winter. Verdant clumps of date and palm-trees embosomed the only well of fresh water, around which numer- ous Bedouin females were drawing their daily supply of the precious fluid. These relieved the humble terraced mosque of whitewashed madrepore, whence the voice of the muezzin summoned the true be- liever to matin prayer ; and a belt of green PRECOCIOUS BOY— FAIR OF BERBERA. 23 •nakanni, a dwarf species of mimosa with uniform umbrella tops, fringing the sandy shore, completed a pleasant contrast to the frowning blocks of barren black lava which fortify the Gibraltar whereupon the eye had rested. As the ship sailed into the harbor, the appearance of a large shark in her wake caused the tongue of the pilot again to "break adrift," "A certain friend of mine," said he, " nakhuda of a craft al- most as fast a sailer as my own, which is acknowledged to be the best in these seas, was, once upon a time, bound from this port to Mocha, with camels on board. When off Jabel Jan, the high table-land betwixt the Bay of Tajura and the Red Sea, one of the beasts dying, was hove overboard. Up came a shark, ten times •the size of that fellow, and swallowed the carcass, leaving one of the hinder legs pro- truding from his jaws ; and before he had time to think where he was to find stow- age for it, up came a second tremendous monster; and bolted his messmate, camel, leg, and all." In return for this anecdote, the old man was treated to the history of the two Kil- kenny cats in the sawpit, which fought until nothing remained of either but the tail and a bit of the flue. " How could that be ?" he retorted seriously, after turning the business over in his mind. " Now, Capitan Bashi, you are spinning yarns, but, by Allah, the story I have told you is as true as the holy Koran, and if you do n't choose to believe me, there are a dozen persons of unblemished veracity now in Tajura, who are ready to vouch •for its correctness." CHAPTER VI. CAST ANCHOR AT TAJURA ON THE AFRICAN COAST. A scraggy, misshapen lad, claimed by Aboo Bekr as his own most dutiful neph- ew, now paddled alongside in a frail skiff, the devil dancing in his wicked eye ; and having caught the end of a rope thrown by the doting uncle, he was on board in another instant. During a former cruize of the "Eu- phrates," this imp had contrived to pass on the purser a basket of half-hatched eggs, which he warranted "new-laid," but with which he was subsequently pelted over the gangway. On being greeted as " Sahib el bayzah," " the mas- ter of the eggs," and asked if he had not brought a fresh supply for sale, grinning archly, he dragged forward by the topknot a dull, stupid, little wretch — his messmate — whose heavy features formed the exact reverse of his own impudent animation. " Here," he exclaimed, " is the identical young rascal of whom I told you I bought them; he actually stole the whole from under his mother's hen, and then assured me that they were fresh." " Why do n't you grow taller as well as sharper ?" in- quired the party upon whom the preco- cious child of the sea had imposed; " 'tis now twelve months since you cheated me, and you are as diminutive a dwarf as ever." "How can any one thrive who is starved ?" was the prompt reply; " were I to eat as immoderately as you do, I doubt not I should soon grow as corpulent." But. the arrival of Ali Shermarki shortly changed this desultory conversation to weightier matters. This worthy old man, sheikh of the Somauli tribe Aber Gerhajis, possessing great influence and considera- tion among the entire Danakil population of the coast, had been invited from Zeyla, his usual place of residence, to assist in the extensive preparations making for the jour- ney of the embassy ; and he now repre- sented the requisite number of camels to be on their way down from the mountains, if the assurances of the owners, upon whose word small reliance could be placed, were to be implicitly believed. Long faithfully attached to the British government, the sheikh's first introduction arose out of a catastrophe which occurred many years ago — the loss of the merchant brig " Mary Anne " at Berbera, a sea-port on the Somauli coast, lying immediately opposite to the peninsula of Aden. De- serted from October till March, it becomes, throughout the residue of the year, one uninterrupted fair, frequented by ships from the Arabian shores, by rapacious Banians from India, and by caravans of wandering savages from all parts of the interior — a vast temporary city or encampment, pop- ulated by not fewer than fifty thousand souls, springing into existence as if by the magic aid of Aladdin's lamp, and disap- pearing so suddenly, that within a single week, not one inhabitant is to be seen. Yet another six months, and the purse- proud merchant of Hurrur is again there, with his drove of comely slaves newly ex- ported from the highlands of Abyssinia. There, too, is the wild pagan, displaying coffee, peltries, and precious gums from beyond Gurague ; and, punctual as ever, see the kafilah from the distant gurriahs 54 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. of Amin and Ogaden, a nomade band, la- den with ivory and ostrich plumes, and stained from head to foot, both in person and in garment, by the impalpable red dust traversed during the long march from the southward. Religious prejudices on the part of the wily Hindoo precluding all traffic in live stock, the Somauli shepherd retains in his own hanfl the sale of his black-headed ! flocks ; embarked with which in his frail • bark of fifty tons, he stands boldly across the gulf, at seasons when the Arab fears ! even to creep along the coast of the Hejaz. j All other trade, however, is engrossed by j the subtle Banian, who divides the adduc- j tor pollicis of the right thumb, in order to j increase the span by which his wares are i to be measured ; and he, during many \ years, has enjoyed, silently and unobserv- ed, the enormous profits accruing from the ! riches annually poured out from the hidden regions of Africa. No form of govern- [ ment regulates the commerce ; and, in the absence of imposts,, barter is conducted solely through the medium of a native bro- ker styled aban, who, receiving a regula- ted per-centage upon purchases and sales, is bound, at the risk of his own life, to protect his constituent from injury or out- rage. A vessel standing toward the coast proves a signal to all who gain their live- lihood by this system, to swim off, and con- test first arrival on board ; the winner of the aquatic race, in accordance with an- cient usage, being invariably received as her aban. Thus it was that Ali Sher- marki became agent to the u Mary Araie," a small English merchantman from Mau- ritius, whose captain, imprudently landing with the greater portion of his crew, af- forded to a party of knavish Somauli an opportunity to cut the cable, when she drifted on shore and was lost. Hoping by his influence to prevail upon the plunder- ers to desist, the aban, then a younger man, exerted himself to gain the wreck, but he was repulsed by a shower of spears, and his boat was swamped. A savage rab- ble next beleaguered his dwelling, and im- periously demanded the persons of the of- ficers and crew, in order to put them to death ; but, true to his charge, Ali Sher- marki stoutly resisted, and being severely wounded, succeeded with his blood in se- curing honorable terms, and preserving the lives for which he had made himself re- sponsible. His zealous integrity was duly rewarded by the British government, and a sword was presented in token of his gal- lantry, the display of the brilliant setting of which led to the narration of the fore- going history. The passage from Aden had been made in forty-two hours. As the cable of the " Euphrates " ran through the hawse-holes, and the rest of the squadron fell into their places betwixt herself and the shore, she fired a salute of five guns ; and, after con- siderable delay, a negro was peiceived tim- idly advancing with a lighted brand from among a knot of gray-bearded elders, seat- ed in deep consultation beneath the scanty foliage of an ancient date-tree. A super- annuated 4 pr., honey-combed throughout its calibre, and mounted upon a rickety ship carriage, tottered on the beach — the sole piece of ordnance possessed by Sultan Mohammad ibn Mohammad, reputed ruler of all the Danakil tribes. It was, after much coaxing, persuaded to explode in re- ply to the compliment paid, and for some minutes afterward, wreaths of white smoke continued to ascend from the chimney- like vent, as though the venerable engine had taken fire, and was being consumed internally. The commander of the " Euphrates," whose naval functions were now tempora- rily suspended, having long enjoyed the honor of a personal acquaintance with the potentate bearing the above pompous and high-sounding title, repaired forthwith to the palace," which consists of the stern moiety of the ill-3tarred " Mary Anne," tastily erected, keel uppermost, in the mid- d'e of the town to serve as an attic story. | Letters of introduction from the political authorities at Aden, with many complimen- tary speeches, duly delivered, permission to land was solicited ; and although the for- midable array of shipping, whose guns, not two hundred yards distant, sullenly over- looked the royal lodge, had given birth to certain misgivings, the sultan finally over- came his fears, and acquiesced in tne ar- rangement. A spot of waste land, forming a common near the mosque, was pointed out as the site upon which to encamp, but the favor was granted with this express understanding, that the British embassy should tarry in so enviable a situation, not one moment longer than the exigencies of the service imperatively demanded ; a sav- ing clause in the stipulation to which all parties heartily subscribed. The bay in which the " Euphrates" now rode, styled, from its wonted smoothness, "Bahr el Banateen," "the sea of the two nymphs," is a deep narrow estuary, bound- ed by a bold coast, and extending, in a south-westerly direction, about forty-five miles, when the Eesah and Danakil shores RECEPTION OF THE EMBASSY. suddenly converge so as to form a strait- ened channel, which imparts the figure of an hour-glass. Barely three-quarters of a mile across, this passage is divided by a barren rocky islet, styled " Bab," " the door," as occupying the gateway to the in- ner bay of Goobut el Kharab, *' the basin of foulness." The vortices formed by the strong tide setting through these confined apertures, assume a most dangerous as- pect ; and although the water in the bowl, whereof the longer axis measures twelve, and the shorter five miles, is so intensely salt as to create a smarting of the skin during immersion, mud adhering to the lead at one hundred fathoms, is perfectly sweet and fresh. Of four islets, two are rocks ; Bood Ali, on the contrary, three hundred feet in height, and perfectly inac- cessible, being thickly incrusted with earth and vegetable matter, while the sides of its nearest neighbor, Hood Ali, are bare, and present unequivocal traces of more re- cent volcanic action than are to be found in the surrounding debris. Immediately outside the bay, on the Danakil coast, there issues from the rock below high water line, a spring which, at the flood tide, is completely effaced ; but during the ebb is so intensely hot, that a crab is instantly destroyed and turned red by immersion. At the western extremity of Goobut el Kharab, a cove three hundred yards in diameter, with sixteen fathoms water, is inclosed by precipitous volcanic cliffs, and the entrance barred by a narrow coral reef, which, at low tide, lies high and dry. In the waters of this recess is pre- sented one of those strange phenomena which are not to be satisfactorily explained. Always ebbing, there is an underflow du- ring even the flood tide ; and usually glassy smooth, they become occasionally agitated by sudden ebullition, boiling up in whirl- pools, which pour impetuously over the bar; whence the natives, persuaded that there exists a subterranean passage con- nected with the great Salt Lake, of which the sparkling expanse is visible from an intervening high belt of decomposing lava, term the cove " Mirsa good Ali," " the source of the sea." CHAPTER VII. EECEPTION OF THE EMBASSY BY THE SULTAN OF THE SEA-PORT, AND RETURN VISIT TO HIS HIGHNESS. The first British camp with which the sea-port of Tajura had been honored since 8 its foundation, raised its head on the after- noon of the 18th of May ; when the em- bassy, accompanied by the officers of both ships-of-war in the harbor, landed under a salute of seventeen guns from the " Eu- phrates,"* and, in a spacious crimson pavilion, erected as a hall of audience, received a visit of ceremony from the sul- tan and his principal chiefs. A more un- princely object can scarcely be conceived than was presented in imbecile, the attenu- ated, and ghastly form of this most meagre potentate, who, as he tottered into the mar- quee, supported by a long witch-like wand, tendered his hideous bony claws to each of the party in succession, with all the re- pulsive coldness that characterizes a Dan- kali shake of the hand. An encourager of the staple manufactures of his own coufi- try, his decrepit frame was enveloped in a coarse cotton mantle, which, with a blue checked wrapper about his loins, and an ample turban perched on the very apex of his shaven crown, was admirably in keep- ing with the harmony of dirt that pervaded the attire of his privy council and attend- ants. Projecting triangles of leather graced the toes of his rude sandals ; a huge quarto Koran, slung over his bent shoulder, rested beneath the left arm, on the hilt of a brass-mounted creese, which was girded to the right side ; and his illus- trious person was further defended against evil influence by a zone and bandalier, thickly studded with mystic amulets and most potent charms, extracted from the sacred book. Enfeebled by years, his deeply-furrowed countenance, bearing an ebony polish, was fringed by a straggling white beard, and it needed not the science of Lavater to detect, in the indifference of his dull leaden eye, and the puckered cor- ners of his toothless mouth, the lines of cruelty, cunning, and sordid avarice. His highness's haggard form was sup- ported by the chief ministers of church and state — Abdool Rahman Sowahil, the judge, civil, criminal, and ecclesiastic, and Hamed Bunaito, the pursy wazir, whose bodily circumference was in strict uni- son with the pomposity of his carriage. One Saleh Shehem, too, occupied a promi- nent seat in ths upper ranks — a wealthy slave merchant, whose frightful deformities have ennobled him with the title of " Ash- rem," which being interpreted signifies, " he of the hare-lip." This trio alone, of all the unwashed retinue, showed turbaned heads, every lesser satellite wearing either a natural or artificial full-bottomed peruke, graced with a yellow wooden skewer, * Commanded by Lieutenant J. Young, I. N. 26 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. something after the model of a salad fork, stuck erect in hair well stiffened with a goodly accumulation of sheep's-tail fat, the rancid odor whereof was far from enhan- cing the agremens of the interview. Izhak and Hajji Kasim, two elders of the blood- royal, with whom a much closer acquaint- ance was in store, were perfectly bald, — their patriarchal bearing and goodly pres- ence affording no bad imitation of the scriptural illustrations by the old masters of the apostles St. Peter and St. Paul. True to his word, the wag Aboo Bekr, as full of pleasantries as ever, had donned a preposterous tawny wig, quaintly manu- factured of the fleece of a sheep ; and in his smirking, facetious physiognomy was found the principal relief to the scowling satanic glances of the ill-favored rabble, dripping with tallow, and redolent of abom- inable smells, who crowded the tent to the choking of every doorway. It having heretofore been the invariable maxim of the sultan to exact a visit from the stranger before condescending to pay one himself, the departure from established rule in favor of the liege subjects of her Britannic majesty could not fail to prove eminently gratifying. Compliments of the most fulsome nature were bandied about with compound interest, as the coffee-cup passed round to the more distinguished of the Danakil guests. Promises of assist- ance the most specious were lavished by the authorities, in grateful acknowledg- ment whereof, Cachemire shawls, and Delhi embroidered scarfs of most exquisite work- manship, were liberally distributed, and as greedily tucked under the dirty cloth of the avaricious recipients ; and although, in ac- cordance with the unpolished custom of the country, no sort of salutation was of- fered when the conference broke up, the filthy guests departed with a semblance of good-humor, that had been observable in none at their first entrance. Widely different was the mood of the son of Ali Abi, chief of the Rookhba, as he rushed into the pavilion on the exit of his rival, the hereditary sultan of the Danakil. Lucifer, when gazing forth upon the newly created paradise, and plotting the downfall of the sinless inmates of the garden of Eden, looked not half so fiend-like as Mo- hammad Ali, while, trembling with jealousy and rage, he demanded the reason of hav- ing been so insultingly omitted in the dis- tribution of valuables ? " Am I then a dog," he continued, in the highest indignation, ** and not worth the trouble of propitiating ? whereas that old dotard yonder is to have his empty skull bound with rich shawls from India, and his powerless relatives de- corated from head to foot. Inshallah, we shall see anon whether the sultan of the sea-beach, or the son of Ali Abi, keeps the key of the road to Habesh." Unlike the succession of every other government in the universe, the nominal sovereignty of the united tribes composing the Ada'i'el of Danakil nation, whereof Ta- jiira is the seat, is alternately vested in the adali and the abli, a sultan drawn from the one, being succeeded by his wazir, who is invariably a member of the other, while the individual to fill the post vacated by the latter, is elected by suffrage from the family of the sultan deceased. The town is besides the rendezvous of the pet- ty chiefs of all the surrounding clans, who, to the number of eight or ten, claim an equal voice in the senate, and with about a hundred litigious followers each, make it their head-quarters during the greater portion of the year. Mohammad Ali is the principal of these, and his powerful tribe occupying a central position on the road to Abyssinia, he asserts the right to escort all parties proceeding thither — a right which the sultan denies. The ne- cessity of propitiating at one time, and in the same place, two rival savages, pos- sessing equally the means of annoyance, while neither is sufficiently strong to afford protection against the interference of the other, rendered the negotiation one of con- siderable difficulty and delicacy ; nor was it without a vast expenditure of honied words, that the ruffled temper of the mal- content was finally soothed, and he was persuaded to waive the assertion of his re- cognized claim, until a more suitable op- portunity. All the tents having been erected, the steeds landed and picketed in the rear, and the heterogeneous mass of property which strewed the sea-beach reduced to a some- thing less chaotic state, a return visit to his highness was paid in full uniform ; and the cortege being swelled by the naval officers, an exceedingly gay procession of cocked hats, plumes, and gold lace, passed along the strand to the palace, under a be- fitting salute from the brig-of-war. The lounging population were altogether lost in amazement at the sight of such magnifi- cence—old and young, of both sexes, thronging the way-side, with features in- dicative of unequivocal admiration at the brilliancy of so unwonted a display. The thunder of artillery, to which the nervous old sultan does not conceal his insuperable aversion, still shook the unpre- tending couch whereon he quailed, as the CITY OF TAJURA. 27 orocession entered the fragile tenement of stakes and matting which constituted the divan ; and which, without possessing any pretensions to exclude either sun or rain, proved just sufficiently large to include the entire party. A renewal of hand-shaking in its coldest form, and a repetition of yes- terday's compliments, and of yesterday's promises made only to be broken, was fol- lowed by a general sipping of coffee, pre- pared, not in the royal kitchen, but in the cuisine of the embassy ; and after being scrutinized during ten minutes of suffocat- ing heat by numerous female eyes glisten- ing through an infinity of chinks and per- forations in the envious matting, the party returned, bearing as a costly token of his highness's regard, a cloth similar to that composing the royal mantle. It did indeed, in this instance, form mat- ter of heartfelt congratulation, that the re- gal custom was dispensed with, of investing the honored guest with a garment from the imperial wardrobe ! As the cavalcade, duly impressed with this sentiment, remounted at the gate of the thorn inclosure which fortifies the palace, the sultana vouchsafed a glimpse of her bedizened person from the stern cabin window of the " Mary Anne " — the withered frame of the ancient bel- damt;, embedded in spells, beads, amulets, and grease, forcibly reminding the specta- tor of the witch of Endor, and rendering her in very truth, a right seemly partner for her wrinkled lord. CHAPTER VIII. TAJURA, "THE CITY OF THE SLAVE MER- CHANT." In the heart of the peninsula of Arabia, environed on every side by rocky moun- tains, there stood, in the middle of the sixth century, a celebrated pagan shrine, that had been held in the most exalted veneration, during fourteen hundred years. The edifice was believed to cover the hal- lowed remains of Ishmael, the father of the wandering Bedouin, and it contained a certain sacred black stone, whereon the patriarch Jacob, saw the vision of the an- gels ascending into heaven. On its site, according to the Arab tradition, Adam pitched his tent when expelled from the garden of Eden, and there died Eve, the partner of his fall, whose grave of green sods is shown to the present day, upon the barren shores of the Red Sea. This shrine, of course, was none other than the famous temple of the sun at Mec- 3* ca, since so consecrated by the lawgiver of the Mohammadans, as to form the focus of attraction to every true believer. The extraordinary veneration it received in those early days, concentrating the tide of commerce, rendered it the absorbing mart of Eastern trade. Abyssinia at that pe- riod held in occupation the adjacent prov- inces of Arabia Felix ; and Abrahah, the vicegerent of Yemen, conceiving the idea of diverting the channel to his own advan- tage, erected in the country of the Homer- ites a splendid Christian church, which, under the title of Keleisa, he endowed with the privileges, immunities, and emol- uments, that had pertained from all antiqui- ty, to the shrine of Sabaen idolatry. " If," says Gibbon, " a Christian power had been maintained in Arabia, Mahomet must have been crushed in his cradle, and Abyssinia would have prevented a revolt which has changed the civil and religious aspect of the world." But alarmed at the prospect of the desertion of their temple, both by votaries and merchants, the Beni Koreish, who held the keys of the black stone in hereditary right, polluted the rival fane at Saana, which had no equal, saving the palace of the Hamyar kings, and was calculated to insure the veneration of every pilgrim. Out of this sacrilege and affront arose the event celebrated in the Koran as " the war of the elephant." Mounted on a huge white elephant, Abrahah, sur- named El Ashrem, placing himself at the head of a vast army, proceeded to take re- venge on the idolaters ; but, misled by in- telligence artfully given by Aboo Taleb, grandfather to the apostle of God, he de- stroyed, instead of Kaaba, a temple of Osi- ris at TaVef, and the first recorded appear- ance of the smallpox, shortly afterward annihilated the Christian forces. The wars that distracted all Arabia, be- tween the Greeks and Persians in the first instance, and subsequently between Ma- homet and the population in support of his divine mission, had greatly impaired the traffic carried on by general consent at the temple of Mecca. A caravan scarcely ever ventured forth by any road, that it was not plundered by the opposing parti- sans, and merchants as well as trade grad- ually departed south of the Arabian Gulf, to sea-ports which, in earlier times, had been the emporia of commerce with the East. Rahei'ta, Zeyla, Tajilra, and a num- ber of other towns in the Indian Ocean thus recovered their importance and their lost prosperity. The conquest of the Abyssinian territories in Arabia, drove every Ethiopian to the African shores. 28 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Little districts now grew into great con- sideration. Mara, Hadea, Aussa, and Adel, among other petty states, assumed unto themselves the title of kingdoms, and short- ly acquired power and wealth eclipsing many of the more ancient monarchies. The miserable town of Tajiira, " the ci- ty of the slave merchant," as it exists at the present day, demands no further de- scription. It was for two years in the hands of the Turks, who occupied it after the taking of Massowah, and converted into a fort a venerable mosque, now in ru- ins, on the sea- beach near the palace. But no consistent chronicle, either of the cap- ture or evacuation, is to be expected where every man is notorious equally as a boast- er and a liar, and making himself the indi- vidual hero in every passage of arms, never fails to extol his own clan as immeasura- bly superior in valor to every other. The melancholy 'aspect of the place is but too well calculated to convey to the traveller a foretaste of the sufferings inseparable from a pilgrimage through any portion of the country denominated Adel ; and each barbarian of the entire population of Ta- jiira will be found, on sad experience, a type of the Dankali nation ! Bigoted Mohammadans, punctual to the call of the muezzin, praying three times in excess of the exactions of the prophet, often passing the entire night in the mosque, or sitting in council at its thresh- old; sedulously attentive to the outward forms of their creed, though few have suf- ficient energy to undertake a pilgrimage to the Kaaba, and content, like other hypo- crites, with a rigid observance of externals — the Danakil rise from their devotions well primed with Moslem intolerance, and are perfectly ready to lie and cheat, as oc- casion may offer. Unoccupied, and at a loss for honest employment, idlers without number sauntered about the pavilion at all times and seasons, entering at pleasure, and monopolizing chairs and tables with the insolent independence which forms one of their most prominent features. Sup- ported by a long staff, the ruffians gazed for hours together at the novel splendor of the equipage; and invariably disfigured by a large quid of tobacco adulterated with ashes, squirted the redundant saliva over the carpet, although squatted on the out- side of the door, with ample space at com- mand. But although thieves by profession on a grand scale, they fortunately contriv- ed to keep their hands from picking and stealing ; and notwithstanding that the tents were thus thronged from morning till night, and the 6ea-beach for many weary days was strewed with boxes and bales of truly tempting exterior, nothing whatever was abstracted. The classic costume of the people of this sea-port consists of a white cotton robe, thrown carelessly over the shoulder, in the manner of the old Roman toga ; a blue checked kilt reaching to the knees, simply buckled about the waist by a leath- ern belt, which supports a most formida- ble creese, and a pair of rude undressed sandals to protect the feet of such as can afford the luxury. The plain round buck- ler and the broad-headed spear, without which few ever cross their threshold, ren- ders the naturally graceful and manly fig- ure of almost every individual, a subject for the artist's pencil ; but the population are to a man filthy in the extreme, and the accumulated dirt upon their persons and apparel leaves a taint behind, that might readily be traced without the intervention of a bloodhound. Rancid mutton fat, an inch thicks frosts a bushy wig of cauli- flower growth, which harbors myriads of vermin. Under the melting rays of a trop- ical sun, the grease pours copiously over the skin , and the use of water, except as a beverage, being a thing absolutely un- heard of, a Dankali pollutes the atmo- sphere with effluvium, such as is only to be encountered elsewhere in the purlieus of a tallow-chandler's shop. All are vain of scars, and desirous of displaying them ; but little favor is shown for other outward ornament ; and the mi- serly disposition which pervades the breast both of young and old, inducing an effort toward the concealment of property pos- sessed, a paltry silver ring in the ear, a band of copper wire round the junction of the spear blade with the shaft, or pewter mountings to the creese, form the sum to- tal of decoration on the arms and persons even of the most extravagant. Fops in numbers are to be seen at Tajura, who have called in the aid of moist quicklime toward the conversion of the naturally jet black peruke to a most atrocious foxy red — when judicious frizzing, and the in- sertion of the wooden skewer, used for scratching, completes the resemblacc to a carriage mop. But this novel process of dyeing, so contrary to that employed by civilized beaux, is only in fashion among the Somauli, who, in common with the Danakil dandies, employ, in lieu of a down pillow, a small wooden bolster, shaped like a crutch, which receives the neck, and during the hours of presumed uncomfortable repose, preserves the peri- wig from derangement. EDUCATION— BARTER OF WOMEN. 29 Massy amulets in leathern envelopes, or entire Korans in quarto or octavo, are borne on the unpurified person of almost every individual; and the ancient Arab remedy of swallowing the water in which passages from the holy book have been washed from the board or paper whereon they are inscribed, is in universal repute, as a sovereign medicine for every ailment to which frail flesh is heir — the firm of sultan, wazir and kazi, who alone pos- sess the privilege of wearing turbans, holding the monopoly, and driving a most profitable trade by the preparation of this simple, but potent specific. Large doses of melted sheep's-tail-fat are, moreover, swallowed on certain occasions ; and a native Esculapius gave proof of the per- fection to which the dentist's art has at- tained at Tajiira, by dexterously detaching a carious tooth from the stubborn jaws of a submissive old woman, with the patent machinery of a rusty nail as a punch, struck with a heavy stone picked up on the sea-beach, where the operation was performed for the edification of the en- campment. Applications were neverthe- less frequent for European aid — a venera- ble priest numbering threescore years and ten, peremptorily demanding, in addition to a philter, the instantaneous removal of two obstinate cataracts, which had long dimmed his sight, and upon which he had vainly expended the teeth of half the mules in Tajiira, roasted, and reduced to an impalpable powder. Education, to the extent of spelling the Koran, is general, and all speak Arabic as well as Dankali ; the lore of the most learned being, however, restricted to a smattering of the holy book, with a very confused idea of numerals, and ability to indite a scraggy Arabic letter, which when completed with infinite labor, the writer is often puzzled to decipher. To the immor- tal honor of the sultan be it here recorded, that although the oldest male inhabitant of Tajiira, he is a solitary instance of non- acquaintance with the alphabet. The swarthy cheek of every urchin who dis- tinguishes himself by diligence or quick- ness, receives in token thereof, a dash of white chalk, a black streak in like manner disgracing the idle and stupid ; but the pedagogue would appear to omit the resi- due of this oriental custom — the stuffing i the mouths of the well-behaved with su- gar-candy, which would doubtless prove a source of much greater enjoyment. In the evening the ingenuous youth of the town, each armed with a creese in case of quarrel, convene in numbers on the common, to play a game which combines hockey and foot-ball; the residue of their time being spent in angling, when the ju- venile Walton stands up to the chin in the salt sea, and employing his head as a sub- stitute for the reel, spins out a dozen yards of line in a truly fisherman-like manner. Numbers spent the period of their relax- ation from study in gaping with the adults at the door of the pavilion, while the magic effect of the magnet was exhibited, or fire produced from the human mouth by means of a promethean, here emphatic- ally denominated " the devil." The softer sex of Tajiira, while young, possess a tolerable share of comeliness, and a pleasing expression withal ; but they are speedily past the meridian of beauty. A close blue chemise, a plain leathern pet- ticoat, or a cloth reaching to the ankles, and a liberal coat of lard over extrava- gantly braided ringlets, which are knotted with white beads, form the toilet of maid, wife, and widow. An occasional neck- lace of colored beads falling over the sable bosom, a pendant of brass or silver wire of no ordinary dimensions in the ear, and large ivory bracelets or anklets, proclaim the besetting foible of the sex : but orna- ments are by no means general. Moham- madan jealousy tends to the seclusion of the better order of females to a certain ex- tent ; but a marriage in high life, when the procession passed close to the encamp- ment, afforded an opportunity not always enjoyed, of beholding the beauty and fashion of the place. The matrimonial shackles are here easily loosed ; and the greater portion of the population being deeply engaged in the slave-trade with the interior, have their rude houses filled with temporary wives, who are from time to time unceremoniously shipped for the Ara- bian market, in order that the funds ac- cruing from the sale of their persons may be invested in new purchases. Agriculture there is none. Every man is a merchant, and waxes sufficiently rich on his extensive slave exportations, to im- port from other climes the produce he re- quires. An extensive traffic is carried on with Aussa and Abyssinia, in which near- ly all are engaged at some period of the year. Indian and Arabian manufactures, pewter, zinc, copper and brass wire, beads, and salt in large quantities, are at these inland marts exchanged for slaves, grain, ivory, and other produce of the interior — salt and human beings forming, however, the chief articles of barter. Virgin Mary German crowns of Maria Theresa, 1780, as integrals, and strips of raw hide for 30 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. sandal soles, as fractionals, form the cur- rency of the sea-port ; beads, buttons, mirrors, trinkets, empty bottles, snuff, and tobacco, being also received in exchange for the necessaries of life. Avarice is the ruling passion — the sa- lient point in the character of the Dankali. His whole soul is engrossed in amassing wealth, while he is by nature indolent and lazy, and would fain acquire riches with- out treading the laborious up-hill path toward their attainment. Miserly in dis- position, there is not an individual of the whole community, from the sultan down- ward, who would not infinitely prefer the present receipt of two pieces of silver, to a promissory note for twenty at the ex- piration of a week, upon the very best security. " Trees attain not to their growth in a single day," remarked Ali Shermarki, after remonstrating with the grasping ruler on his inordinate love of lucre — " take the tree as your text, and learn that property is only to be accumu- lated by slow degrees." " True," retorted the old miser; "but, sheikh, you must have lost sight of the fact, that my leaves are already withered, and that if I would be rich, I have not a moment to lose." CHAPTER IX. FORETASTE OF DANAKIL KNAVERY. A share of thirty thousand German crowns, the annual profits accruing from the sale of three thousand human beings kidnapped in the interior, renders every native of Tajura a man of competent in- dependence. It is not, therefore, surpris- ing that the usual rates of transport hire, added to a knowledge of the exigencies of the embassy, should have produced in this avaricious, but indolence-loving race, no particular desire to bestir themselves. All are camel owners to a g'-eater or less ex- tent ; but the presence of so many interest- ed parties, tended not a little to increase the difficulties inseparable from dealings with so very list'ess and dilatory a set of savages — it being of course requisite to consult the advantage of all, to which, as might be conjectured, all are most feel- ingly alive. The ashes cf ancient feuds were still smoking on the arrival of the British ; and notwithstanding that it was matter of notoriety that the amount dis- bursed at the time of departure for Shoa, would be diminished in the exact ratio of the delay experienced — and although, to judge from the surface, anairs looked prosperous enough toward the speedy completion of carriage, there was ever an adverse under-current setting ; and the ap- athy of the savage feeding upon listless delays, the party were doomed for a weary fortnight to endure the merciless heat of the Tajura sun, whose tardy departure was followed by a close muggy atmosphere, only occasionally alleviated by the burst- ing of a thunder-storm over the peak of Jebel Goodah, and to be perpetually de- ceived by the falsest promises, without being able to discover where to lay the blame. Bribes were lavished, increased hire acceded to, and camels repeatedly brought into the town ; but day a;ter day found the dupes to Danakil knavery still seated, like shipwrecked mariners, upon the shore, gazing in helpless melancholy at endless bales which strewed the strand, as if washed up by the waves of the fickle ocean. During this tedious detention, which, as the sun shone fiercer and the close nights grew hotter with the rapidly advancing sea- son, waxed daily more irksome and insup- portable, and even threatened to arrest the journey altogether, the most conflicting ac- counts were received from various inter- ested parties, of the actual extent of the sultan's jurisdiction, averred by himself to have no limits nearer than the frontier of Efat. His revenues were ascertained to be restricted to two hundred head of oxen, camels, sheep, and goats, paid annually by the adjacent Danakil tribes, and it was certain that he enjoyed circumscribed pre- rogatives, based upon ancient usage ; but aljiough nothing is done or undertaken, without his concurrence duly obtained, he possesses no discretion to punish disobedi- ence of his will, and is precluded from act- ing in the most trivial matter without the consent, in full conclave, of the majority of the chiefs. Possessing little or no power over his nominal subjects, he is merely a puppet, looked up to by the wild tribes as the head of the principal family — infirmity and utter imbecility of character rendering his highness, at the same time, little bet- ter than a laughing-stock. Faithless and rapacious, his insatiable avarice induced him to take every extor- tionate advantage of the helpless party at his mercy, while his tottering sway de- barred him the power of reserving to him- self the exclusive right of pillage. Private as well as public kaldms were daily held for hours at the sacred threshold of the mosque, during which new schemes of vil- lainy and plunder were devised ; and date leaves were indolently plaited by a host of ARAB EXTORTION— ROYAL SALUTE. 31 apathetic legislators, as the propriety of permitting the departure inland of the Chris- tian Kafirs was fully discussed and deliber- ated over with all the vicious bigotry of the Moslem zealot. In order to ascertain how far fraud and impertinence might be carried with impu- nity, a deputation of the artful elders be- leagured the pavilion during the dead of night, to complain, in no measured terms, that certain of the followers, regardless of orders, had been seen endeavoring, with beads and trinkets, to betray the virtue of females who drew water at the w r ell — a tale which proved, on due inquiry instituted, to be, like other Danakil asseverations, devoid of the slightest truth or foundation. Not even a paltry water-skin was to be pur- chased from a schoolboy under the disburse- ment of a silver fuloos, value four sterling shillings ; and a courier, who had, at three times the established charge, been furnish- ed on the security of the high and mighty sultan, to convey to Ankober a letter ad- vising the King of Shoa of the advent of the embassy, was, after being three entire days and nights in possession of his ill-got- ten wealth, discovered to be still snug with- in his mat-house, in the bosom of his family. The letter in question had fixed the day of departure, and had been written in the most public manner before the assembled chiefs, in order, if possible, to counteract in some measure the tissue of underplots hour- ly developing, and to demonstrate to the Danakil capacity, that, whether camels were forthcoming or not, the journey would positively be undertaken ; and the nefari- ous detention of the document, after the receipt of such exorbitant hire, being per- fectly in keeping with the outrageously unprincipled and underhand treatment ex- perienced from the first moment of arrival, the sultan was at last plainly informed that further shuffling and falsehood would avail him nothing ; since, if carriage were not immediately furnished in accordance with the plausible agreement concluded, the heavy baggage would be reshipped for Cape Aden, and the party would advance in de- fiance of opposition, with ten camels that had been brought by sea from Zeyla, by the nephews of Sheikh Shermarki. Mo- hammad Ali, too, was now heart and hand in the cause, and his jealous rival, on re- ceipt of this unpleasant intimation, began plainly enough to perceive that his guests were in right earnest, and that the golden opportunity of filling his coffers was pass- ing rapidly away. The royal salute, fired alternately from the decks of the brig and schooner, each tricked out in all her colors, with gay sig- nal flags in honor of the natal day of her most gracious majesty the queen, envel- oped the town during forty minutes in a dense white smoke, accompanied by a most unpleasant smell of gunpowder ; and du- ring the entire day, the beach in front of the British encampment wore the sem- blance of a disturbed ant-hill. European and native — master and servant — the latter from every nation under the sun, Arab, Persian, Nubian, Armenian, Egyptian, Sy- rian, Greek, and Portuguese, — all in a state of most active bustle, were selecting light baggage for the approaching departure ; while crowds of oily savages, squatted on their hams, looked on in smiling apathy at the heaps of valuable commodities that were tossing about the sands. Twenty-one Brit- ish officers subsequently sat down to din- ner in the crimson pavilion, and the health of Queen Victoria having been given with nine times nine, another salute bursting from the sides of the vessels of war, shook the frail town to its foundations, and re- echoed long and loud among the mountain- glens — flights of rockets ascending at short intervals to illumine the dark sky. The deafening din of the thirty-two- pound stern-chaser of the " Constance," which pointed directly toward the royal abode, proved too much for the nerves of the timid sultan ; and no sooner had the lights been extinguished, than his spectral figure, which ever shunned the day, glided into the tent unannounced, and ghostlike, muttered the agreeable intelligence that his highness, after consulting the horo- scope, and ascertaining beyond all doubt that the journey would prove propitious — a fact not previously determined — had come to the resolution, wise though late, of supplying the desired carriage without further delay, and deputing his own son as a safeguard through the tribes — services for which the apparition felt confident of receiving a suitable reward. The voice of the chieftains had become unanimous. At the last of a long succession of meet- ings convened for the purpose of taking the affair into full consideration, Abdool Rahman, the kazi, in his capacity of law- giver, had risen from his seat in the assem- bly, and ably demonstrated to his mat- weaving audience, why all animosities and heart-burnings must be sunk in the gene- ral object of making money, and getting rid as expeditiously as possible of a party of Kafirs, whose guns, unshotted, threaten- ed the destruction of the mosque of the true believer and the to'al demolition of Tajura. The Fatheh, being the first chap- 82 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ter of the holy Koran, was duly read, and the Danakil conclave with one voice voci- ferated a loud Ameen, even so let it be ! CHAPTER X. LONG ADIEU TO THE UNPRINCIPLED SUL- TAN. From this eventful epoch, each sultry diy did indeed bring a numerical acces- sion to the beasts of burden collected in the town ; but they were owned of many and self-willed proprietors ; were, gene- rally speaking, of the most feeble descrip- tion, melancholy contrasts to the gigantic and herculean dromedary of Egypt and Arabia ; and no trifling delay was still in store, through their arrival from distant pastures bare-backed, which involved the necessity of making up new furniture for the march. The Dankali saddle is fortu- nately a simple contrivance ; a mat com- posed of plaited date-leaves thrown over the hump, supporting four sticks lashed together in couples, and kept clear of the spinal process by means of two rollers as pads, having been proved by centuries of experience to be not more light than efficient. Accoutrements completed, and camels ready for the march, other provok- ing excuses for delay were not wanting, to fill, even to overflowing, the measure of annoyance. The demise of a nephew of the sultan — the protracted funeral obse- quies of the deceased — and the almost nightly abstraction of one or more hired camels by the lurking Bedouin, all con- tributed their mite. At length, however, no further pretext could be devised, and nine loads being actually in motion toward Ambabo, the first halting-ground on the road to the kingdom of Shoa, the schooner " Constance," getting under weigh, stood up the bay of Tajilra, and cast anchor off the incipient camp, of which the position was denoted by a tall cluster of palms. Endless objections beingnow provoking- ly raised to the shape, size, and weight of the boxes to be transported, it next be- came requisite to reduce the dimensions of the greater number, in the progress of which operation it w r as discovered that the hurry of transhipment at Aden had result- ed in the substitution of several dozens of choice marasquino, for a similar number of cases, of equal size, freighted with round shot for the galloper guns. The work in hand was one of no ordinary labor and difficulty ; and, after all, its completion proved insufficient to satisfy the parties. One blockhead complained that his load was heavier than his neighbor's, who had wisely risen earlier in the morning to make his selection ; another, that his case, although confessedly light, was not of convenient size ; one was too long, another not long enough, a third too deep, and a fourth too loosely packed. From earliest dawn, until final close of day, on a sandy beach, under a broiling sun, was this tor- ment continued without intermission, until the 30th of May, when, by dint of coaxing, menacing, and bribing, every article had been removed saving an unwieldy hand- organ, at which every camel-owner had shaken his wig in turn, and a few stand of arms which had been removed from wooden cases, and repacked in mats and tarpaulins. A great hulking savage finally proposed to carry these latter, upon condi- tion of their being transversely divided with a saw, to suit the backs of his wretch- ed hip-galled camels. " You are a tall man," quoth Aboo Bekr drolly, " suppose we shorten you by the legs ?" " No, no !" cried the barbarian ; " I 'm flesh and blood, and shall be spoiled." " So will the con- tents of these cases, you offspring of an ass," retorted the old pilot, " if you divide them." The almost insurmountable difficulties experienced in obtaining carriage, but now happily overcome, had so far delayed the advance of the embassy, as to oblige it to cross the Tehama during the height of the fieTy and unwholesome blast which, during the months of June and July, sweeps over that waterless tract from the southwest ; and had moreover rendered it impossible to reach Abyssinia before the setting in of the annual heavy rains, when the river Hawash becomes impassable for week* together. Independently of the natural apathy of the camel-owning population, the fact of the season of all intercourse with the interior, by kafilah, having al- ready passed away, rendered every one averse, under any consideration of gain, to so hazardous a journey. Grain was to be carried for the consumption of horses and mules, during the passage of arid regions, where, during the hot season, neither vegetation nor water exists ; and the wells and pools having notoriously failed in every part of the road, during three con- secutive seasons of unusual drought, it was necessary to entertain a large proportion of transport for a supply of water sufficient to last both man and beast for two and three days at a time ; while, neither gr?.- ; s nor green food remaining near the eea- RAPACITY OF THE ARABS. 33 shore, the hundred and seventy camels now forming the caravan, had been indi- vidually assembled from various grazing grounds, many miles distant in the interior. A sufficient number of water-skins had fortunately been purchased, at exorbitant prices, to complete the equipment, together ^ith mules for the conveyance of the Eu- ropean escort and artillery ; and the greedy sultan, besides receiving the lion's share of the profits on all, had sold his own riding- beast for three times its worth in solid silver. But the forage brought over from Aden, being long since consumed, the whole were fed upon dates, and to the latest moment, the greatest difficulty con- tinued to exist in regard to followers. The services of neither Dankali, Bedouin, nor Somauli, were obtained at whatever wages ; and the whole of the long train of live stock was consequently to be attended by a few worthless horsekeepers, enlisted at Aden, aided by a very limited number of volunteers from the shipping, whose in- different characters gave ample promise of their subsequent misdeeds. On the departure of the last load, a general begging commenced on a grand scale, on the part of all who flattered themselves that they had in the most re- mote manner been so fortunate as to ren- der assistance during the protracted so- journ of the Kafirs. Many, whose claims were far from being apparent, after con- fessing themselves satisfied in propriis personis, modestly urged demands on be- half of their still more worthless neigh- bors ; and in order to have any chance of passing in safety to the mountains, with so long a line of camels, it was only prudent to propitiate each and all of this predatory host of locusts, before entering upon their lawless country. With a feeling of pleasure akin to that experienced by Gil Bias, when he escaped from the robbers' cave, the party at length bade adieu to Tajura. Of all the various classes and denominations of men who in- habit the terrestrial globe, the half-civilized savages peopling this sea-port, are, per- haps, the most thoroughly odious and de- testable. They have ingeniously contrived to lose every virtue wherewith the rude tribes to which they pertain, may once have been adorned ; and having acquired nothing in exchange, save the vices of their more refined neighbors, the scale of abject degradation to which they are now reduced, can hardly descend lower. Under this sweeping and very just condemnation, the impotent sultan, Mohammad ibn Mo- hammad, stands preeminently in relief; and the old miser's rapacity continuing un- sated, up to the very latest moment, he clutched his long staff betwixt his skinny fingers, and hobbled forth from his den, resolved to squeeze yet another hundred dollars as a parting memento from his British victims. The European escort were in the act of mounting the mules al- ready harnessed to the galloper gun, which he had vainly persuaded himself could never be transported from the coast, since no camel-owner consented to take it, and repeated attempts that he had witnessed to yoke a pair of oxen to the limbers had proved unsuccessful, even after their stub- born noses were pierced. But mule har- ness had been ably manufactured to meet the exigency, and when his lustreless eyes beheld the party in horse-artillery order, firmly seated in their saddles, and moving along the strand toward Ambabo — forget- ting the vile errand upon which he had come, he involuntarily exclaimed, " In the name of Allah and the holy Prophet, whi- ther are those fellows going ?" " Raheen el Hdbesh" " to Abyssinia," was the laconic reply that fell upon his astounded ears as the whips cracked merrily in succession ; and his highness was long after seen, still leaning on his slender crutch, and staring in idiotic vacancy after the depart- ing cavalcade, as it disappeared under a cloud of dust from before his leaden gaze. CHAPTER XI. INIQUITOUS PROCEEDINGS AT AMBAEO, AND UNDERSTANDING WITH THE RAS EL KA- FILAH. The tall masts of the schooner-of-war, raking above the belt of dwarf-jungle that skirts the tortuous coast, served as a bea- con to the new camp, the distance of which from the town of Tajura was less than four mile*?. A narrow footpath wound along the burning sands, across numerous water- courses, from the impending mountain range of trachyte and porphyry, whose wooded base, thickly clothed with mimosa and euphorbia antiquorum, harbored swine, pigmy antelope, and guinea-fowl in abund- ance. Many large trees, uprooted by the wintry torrent, had been swept far out to sea, where, in derision of the waves that buffet their dilapidated, stag-horn looking arms, they will long ride safely at anchor. The pelican of the wilderness, sailed through the tossing surf ; and files of Be- douin damsels, in greasy leathern petti- 34 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. coats, bending beneath a load of fuel from the adjacent hamlets, traversed the sultry- strand ; while a long train of wretched children, with streaming elf-like locks, who had been kidnapped in the unexplored interior, wended their weary way with a slave caravan, toward the sea-port, whence they were to be sold into foreign bondage. An avenue through the trees presently revealed the white tent, occupying a se- questered nook on the course of a moun- tain-stream, near its junction with the shore. Here horses and mules were doing their utmost, by diligently cropping the scanty tufts of sunburnt grass, to repair their re- cent long abstinence from forage, while the abbreviated tails of those which had been improved by mutilation, formed the jest of a group of grinning savages. Clumps of lofty fan- palms, and date-trees loaded with ripe orange-colored fruit, still screened from view the village of Ambabo, the straggling Gothic-roofed wigwams com- posing which, have the same wagon-like appearance as the huts of Tajura — a simi- lar style of architecture, extending even to the unostentatious mosque, alone dis- tinguishable from the surrounding edifices, by uncarved minarets of wood. Greasy ragamuffins still intruding, here continued their teazing persecutions, and Mohammad Mohammad, the son, though not the heir to the throne of the sultan, having been specially appointed by his dis- reputable sire to the important post of re- porter and spy, unceremoniously occupied one of the chairs, to the exclusion of the lawful proprietor, during the entire day. He however proved useful, in so far that he was versed in the chronicle of Ambabo, The nakhuda of one of his uncle's bug- galows, having contrived a quarrel with a member of the tribe Hassoba, one of the manifold subdivisions of the Danakil, the man threw the gauntlet of defiance by cutting off the prow of the boat. Meeting shortly afterward in deadly conflict, the in- sulted mariner slew his antagonist on the spot, and took refuge in the hills, until, tired of long concealment, and believing the affair to be consigned to oblivion, he ventured to settle with his family at Am- babo. and thus founded the present village ; but after some years of repose, he was discovered by the relatives of the slain ; and, as usual in all blood feuds, ultimately assassinated. Occupying a site proverb- ially unhealthy, and scourged during the rains by insupportable clouds of muske- toes, the miserable hamlet is but thinly peopled ; and the sheikh being on far from amicable terms with the authorities of Ta- jura, it is likely soon to be abandoned in favor of some more eligible location. A red savage, falsely representing him- self to be one of the household of his Christian majesty of Shoa, arrived during the afternoon from Ank&ber, with letters from Aden ; and having safely deposited his packet on board the " Constance," was readily induced to return whence he came, with the embassy. Deeni ibn Hamed, a liar of the first magnitude, but the only Dankali who had voluntarily attached himself to the fortunes of the party, con- ceiving the arrival of this courier to afford an opening for the exercise of his talents, which ought on no account to be neglect- ed, immediately proceeded to tax his lively ingenuity in disclosing the contents of a document, which he pretended had been received from Sahela Selassie, by the old ruffian, from whose clutches his audience had just thankfully escaped ; and the mass of gratuitous falsehoods, that he contrived to string together with an unblushing front, must be admitted to reflect ample credit upon his fertile invention. Lying appeared in fact to be the chosen occupation of this youthful warrior, who, however, unlike the mass of his compat- riots, did possess some redeeming qualities, though they were by no means so conspic- uous as his scars. The insuperable aver- sion to veracity which he evinced on every occasion, renders it difficult to determine what degree of credit may be attached to the tragic tale, that he was pleased to con- nect with a deep gash over the temple, which distorted his vision ; and if not re- ceived in a less honorable rencontre than he pretended, affords another to the ten thousand instances on record, of the sav- age rancor with which blood feuds are prosecuted. " My maternal uncle, and a native of Zeyla," said Deeni, " becoming embroiled, mutually unsheathed their cree- ses in mortal strife, fought desperately, and died. The brother of the latter sought my life in revenge, as being the nearest of kin ; but after receiving this slash upon my forehead, and another on my arm, which I shall also carry to my grave, I closed, stabbed the Somauli villain to the heart, with this good creese ; and, glory be to God ! divided his windpipe with his own sword." Profiting by the amiable example of the illustrious ruler of Tajura, the Sheikh of Ambabo, a most notable extortioner, re- solved to put his claim to a sum of ready money beyond a shadow of doubt, placed a strong Bedouin guard over the only well ; and although he had every reason to be. IZHAK AND HIS CONFEDERATES. 35 satisfied with the success of his nefarious schemes, he did not possess sufficient grati- tude to prevent the commission of a rob- bery during the night, which might have proved more serious than it did. Solace under all misfortunes and annoyances was, however, found in the arrival of Mahom- mad Ali on the 31st, with a welcome ac- cession of camels for the carriage of water, which rendered certain the prospect of de- parture on the morrow, it having been dis- tinctly promised by the sultan, in return for a handsome pecuniary consideration, that his brother Izhak, who had been unani- mously appointed ras el kafilah, his son, his nephew, and seven other persons of undoubted influence on the road, should be in readiness without fail, to escort the em- bassy on the 1st of June, and that the re- ward of their services should be paid, ad valorem, upon safe arrival within the king- dom of Shoa. Three hours after midnight, the galloper gun, fired within the limits of the British camp as a summons to the drowsy camel- drivers to be up and doing, was echoed, according to previous agreement, by the long stern-chaser of the " Constance " — a signal to the "Euphrates," still anchored off Tajura, to thunder a farewell salute as the day dawned. The work of loading was merrily commenced — the tent went down — and camel after camel moved off toward Dullool ; when, on the departure of the last string, it was observed with dismay that the ground was still strewed with baggage, for which carriage had unquestionably been paid and entertained, but for which none was forthcoming. The greasy proprietors were, after some search, discovered below the bushes, engaged in the operation of jerking mutton — a process sufficiently nau- seous in itself to repel any close advance ; but persuasion • and threats proved alike unavailing. Some had already sent their camels to graze at a distance ; others in- solently expressed their intention of doing so after the completion of their interesting work, and by far the greater number would vouchsafe no explanation whatever. At length the provoking riddle was solved by the arrival of a peremptory message from the sultan, naming the price of the attend- ance of his brother with the promised escort, and modestly requesting that the amount might forthwith be disbursed, or the bar- gain must be considered null and void ! In this awkward dilemma, one of the party was immediately dispatched to create a diversion among the Philistines, and to remonstrate against so gross a breach of good faith ; while the residue, awaiting his tardy return, passed the sultry day beneath the mock shelter afforded by a low date bush, shifting position with the deceitful shadow, which, before any further tidings were received of the delinquent old sultan and his ungovernable myrmidons, was cast full on the eastern side. At length the anxiously straining eye was relieved by the appearance of the messenger on his way back. After a world of trouble, he had succeeded in hunting out some of the el- ders, who, however, would only consent to accompany him on the payment of every stuiver of the demand made in the morning, and, quietly possessed of the dollars, they had thought proper to detain the escort. Izhak, backed by Ibrahim Shehem, the most renowned warrior in the next ten tribes, sat as orator on the occasion. The demeanor of the ras bordered closely on the insolent. A heavy load of impudence could be detected under his broad pudding- face ; and his desire to be impertinent was favored in no small degree by the presence of heaps of valuable baggage lying at his mercy upon the ground. The deputation was received quite as coldly as their dis- honest and most provoking behavior de- manded ; a silence of several minutes af- fording to each, leisure to pick out his curly locks, and cool himself a little, the whole having walked out in the broiling sun, and become considerably excited withal. Dis- tant inquiries were at length instituted relative to the august health of the sultan and the royal family, which were stiffly responded to after the current Dankali fashion, " Hamdu lillah," " thanks be unto God!" The conference then opened with a blus- ter concerning the movement of the ka- filah from Ambabo without the presence, order, or consent of the ras, who, after sneering at the attempt as a most unpre- cedented proceeding, and indulging in a very gratuitous tirade against Mahommad Ali, whom he styled in derision "the sup- plier of water," and was anxious to make appear the only culprit on the occasion, added, in conclusion, that his own being " a house of mourning," he had given up his intention of proceeding to Abyssinia, and had finally resolved to wash his hands of the business. He was gravely answered that the cara- van had started upon express orders given in consequence of a distinct understanding and pledge, purchased the preceding day of the sultan himself. He was reminded that every hire and remuneration for cam- els, guides, and escort, exorbitant though they were, had been paid in full at Tajura ; 36 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. and was distinctly informed, that if the terms of the agreement were not fully complied with, ere the night fell, the pro- perty of the British government would be left on the ground, where it then lay, while the embassy proceeded to Dullool, off which place the " Constance " had already anchored, reshipped all the baggage that had been sent to the advance camp, and set sail for Aden. It was farther added, that as the conse- quences of this step would rest upon the head of those who had entered into an ex- press engagement, upon receipt of what- ever terms they had demanded as the price of their services, it should be borne in mind that further offensive and unprinci- pled demonstrations might terminate in un- pleasant results. As the interpreter proceeded to unfold this high-toned remonstrance, Izhak was seen to fidget uneasily upon his hams, while he sought to conceal his agitation by tracing figures on the sand ; and, as the last intimation fell upon his ear, seizing his sandal, he relieved his excited feelings by shovelling a pointed stick through the very centre of the leather. But the swag- gering air which he had assumed had now entirely disappeared, and, after a hurried whispering consultation with his confede- rates, he declared thai he had been toiling day and night in the service of the En- glish ; that he was perfectly ready to per- form everything required of him, and that, notwithstanding the recent calamity with which his family had been visited, and the dangerous illness of his mother, he would escort the embassy in person, with trust- worthy colleagues ; that he would be res- ponsible for all the property left at Amba- bo, and only petition for two days' grace to put his house in order before repairing to Dullool. This point being tardily ac- corded, he rose with Ali Shermarki, who had ridden in as mediator during the heat of the conference, and each offering his hand, in earnest of the matter being finally and amicably concluded in full accordance with the original stipulation of the cove- nant, set out on his return to Tajura. CHAPTER XII. DULLOOL. THE RAS UNPLEASANTLY RE- MINDED OF HIS PLEDGE. SAGALLO AND WARELISSAN. Izhak's absent camels, which had been kept close at hand pending the issue of this stormy debate, being now brought in the ground was speedily cleared of the re- maining baggage ; and satisfied with the specious assurance of the ras el kafilah, that he would on no account tarry beyond nightfall of the following day, the party, relieved from their anxiety, mounted after five o'clock, and galloped seven miles along the sea-beach to the camp at Dullool, — the loose sand being so perforated and under- mined in every part by the hermit crab, as to render the sieve-like road truly treacherous and unpleasant. The grassy nook occupied by the tent was situated at the abutment of a spur from the wooded Jebel Goodah, evidently of volcanic origin, which gradually dimin- ishes in height, until it terminates, one hundred yards from the shore, in a thick jungle of tamarisk and acacia., the former covered with salt crystals. Hornblende, in blocks, was scattered along the beach, and, wherever decomposed, it yielded fine glittering black sand, so heated under the noontide sun as to burn the naked foot. The movable camp of a horde of roving Bedouin shepherds, who, with very slender habitations, possess no fixed abode, was erected near the wells ; and a quarrel with the followers, respecting the precious ele- ment, having already led to the drawing of creeses, silver was again in requisition to allay the impending storm. The heat on the 2nd of June was almost insupportable ; but the sultry day proved one of greater quiet than had fallen to the lot of the embassy since its first landing. Late in the evening, when the cool sea- breeze had set in, Ali Shermarki rode into camp, and delivered a letter which had been slipped into his hand by the sultan, appealing against the hardship of being left without remuneration for his diiigent services, praying that his old heart might be made glad, and hoping that all might meet again ere death should call them — a wish responded to by no single individual of the British party. Neither Izhak nor any of his followers made their appearance, notwithstanding that the redemption of the solemn promise passed was anxiously watched until mid- night. At gun-fire the next morning, however, the arrival of the whole being reported, orders were issued to strike the tent, a measure which was doggedly op- posed by the ras el kafilah, whose brow again darkened as he declared his resolu- tion not to stir from Dullool until three of his camels, which were said to have stray- ed, should be recovered ; and deaf alike to remonstrance or entreaty, he finally THE LAST WELL. 37 withdrew to a distance, taking his seat in sullen mood beneath a tree. The schooner had meanwhile fished her anchor, and was now getting under weigh for the purpose of standing up within range of the next halting ground. The mules were harnessed to the gun, and the tent and baggage packed. Ali Shermarki was deputed to acquaint Izhak with these facts, and to intimate firmly, that unless the order to load were given without an- other moment's delay, minute guns would be fired as a signal to bring up the brig from Tajura, when the promise made yes- terday by the English would be found more binding than those of the Danakil had hitherto proved. This menace had the desired effect, and after three hours of needless detention, the party commenced its third hot march along the sea-beach, whence the hills gradually recede. Be- douin goat-herds occupied many wells of fresh water, which were denoted by clumps of date-trees entwined by flower- ing convolvuli, whose matted tendrils fix the movable sands of the shore ; and late in the forenoon the camp was formed at the pool of Sagallo, only three miles from the former ground, but affording the last supply of water to be obtained for thirty more. An extensive and beautiful prospect of the western portion of the Bay of Tajura had now opened, bound in on all sides by a zone of precipitous mountains, in which the gate leading into Goobut el Kharab was distinctly marked by a low black point, extending from the northern shore. The schooner's services were volunteered to admit of a nearer inspection of the " basin of foulness ;" but no sooner had she stood out to sea than signal-guns fired from the camp announced the arrival of another packet from Shoa. The courier had been forty-four days on the journey, and the tidings he brought respecting the road, although highly satisfactory, added yet another instance to the many, of the vsmall reliance that can be placed on in- formation derived from the Danakil, who, even when disinterested, can rarely indeed de induced to utter a word of truth. The strong party feeling entertained toward Mohammad Ali by the magnates of Taj lira, now vented itself in divers evil-minded and malicious hints, insinuating the defection of the absentee, who had been unavoidably detained by business, some hours after the last of the sea-port heroes had joined. *' Where, now, is your friend Ali Mohammad ?" " Where is the man who was to supply water on the road ?" were the taunting interrogatories from the mouths of many ; but come the son of Ali Abi did, to the confusion of his slanderers, long ere the sun had set, bringing secret intelligence that he had sent to engage an escort from his own tribe ; and the whole party being now at last assembled, it was resolved in full con- clave, that as not a drop of water could be procured for three stages in advance, the entire of the next day should be de- voted to filling up the skins ; which done, the caravan should resume its march by night — a manoeuvre that savored strong- ly of a design to favor the clandestine re- turn to Tajura of certain of the escort, who had still domestic affairs to settle. Thus far the conduct of the son of the Rookhba chief had formed a notable con- trast to the proceedings of his backbiters. While Izhak and his stubborn partisans had positively declined to move according to their agreement, unless a further most extravagant and unconscionable sum were paid in advance for their anticipated ser- vices, and had altogether assumed a bul- lying tone, coupled with a most imperti- nent and overbearing demeanor, this scion of a savage house that holds in its hands the avenues betwixt Shoa and Tajura, and could at pleasure cut off communication with the coast, had never applied for aught save a trifling sum for the present mainte- nance of his family ; and since the first eclaircissement) had, to the best of his ability, striven to render himself useful and agreeable to the party about to pass through his country. A most unprofitable discussion, which was prolonged until eleven the following night, had for its object to persuade the transmission of baggage in advance to the Salt Lake, in consequence of the carried supply of water being, after all, considered insufficient for three days' consumption. But the proposal was negatived upon pru- dent grounds, the honesty of the inten- tions by which it had been dictated, seem- ing, at best, extremely questionable, and no one feeling disposed to trust the faith- less guides further than they could be seen, with property of value. Scarcely were the weary eyes of the party closed in sleep, than the long 32- pounder of the u Constance," proclaiming the midnight hour, sounded to boot and saddle. The Babel-like clamor of loading was at length succeeded by a lull of voices, and the rumbling of the galloper wheels over the loose shingle, was alone heard in the still calm of the night, above the almost noiseless tread of the cushion- 38 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. fooled camels, which formed an intermina- ble line. The road, lit by the full moon, shining brightly overhead, lay for the first two or three miles along the beach, and then, crossing numerous water-courses, struck over the southern shoulder of Jebel Goodah, the distance from whose lofty peak each march had reduced. Blocks and boulders varying in size from an 18 pound shot, to that of Ossa piled upon Pelion, aided by deep chasms, gullies, and waterways, rendering the as- cent one of equal toil and peril, cost the life of a camel, which fell over a precipice and dislocated the spine ; whereupon the conscientious proprietor, disdaining to take further heed of the load, abandoned it un- scrupulously by the wayside. Galeylafco, a singular and fearful chasm, which was navigated in the first twilight, did not ex- ceed sixty feet in width ; its gloomy, per- pendicular walls of columnar lava, tower- ing one hundred and fifty feet overhead, and casting a deep deceitful shadow over the broken channel, half a mile in extent. Deeni, in his customary strain of amplifi- cation, had represented this frightful pass to be entered through a trap-door, in order to clear which it was necessary for a load- ed camel to forget its staid demeanor, and bound from rock to rock like a mountain kid. The devil and all his angels were represented to hold midnight orgies in one of tha most dismal of the many dark re- cesses ; and the belief was fully confirm- ed by the whooping of a colony of baboons, disturbed by the wheels of the first piece of ordnance that had ever attempted the bumping passage. Dawn disclosed the artillery mules in such a wretched plight from their fatiguing night's labor, that it was found necessary to unlimber the gun, and place it with its carriage on the back of an Eesah camel of herculean strength, provided for the contingency by the foresight of Mohammad Ali ; and although little pleased during the imposition of its novel burthen, the animal, rising without difficulty, moved freely along at a stately gait. The same unin- teresting volcanic appearance character- ized the entire country to the table-land of Ware'issan, a distance of twelve miles. Dreary and desolate, without a trace of vegetation saving a few leafless acacias, there was no object to relieve the gaze over the whole forbidding expanse. In this barren, unsightly spot, the radiation was early felt from the masses of black cindry rock, which could not be touched with im- punity. The sand soil of the desert, re- flecting the powerful beams of the sun, lent a fearful intensity to the heat, while on every side the dust rose in clouds that, at one moment, veiled the caravan from sight, and at the next left heads of camels tossing in the inflamed atmosphere among the bright spear-blades of the escort. But on gaining the highest point, a redeeming prospect was afforded in an unexpected and most extensive bird's-eye view of the estuary of Tajtlra, now visible in all its shining glory, from this, its western boun- dary. Stretching away for miles in placid beauty, its figure was that of a gigantic hour-glass ; and far below, on its glassy bosom, were displayed the white sails of the friendly little schooner, as, after safely navigating the dangerous and much-dread- ed portals of Scylla and Charybdis, never previously braved by any craft larger than a jolly boat, bellying to the breeze, she beat gallantly up to the head of Goobut el Kharab. CHAPTER XIII. GLOOMY PASSAGE OF RAH EESAH, THE DE- SCENSUS AD INFEROS. Although Warelissan proved nearly seventeen hundred feet above the level of the blue water, a suffocating south-west- erly wind, which blew throughout the te- dious day, rendered the heat more awfully oppressive than at any preceding station. The camp, unsheltered, occupied a naked tract of table-land, some six miles in cir- cumference, on the shoulder of Jebel Goo- dah — its barren surface strewed with shi- ning lava, and bleached animal bones ; sickly acacias of most puny growth, spa- ringly invested with sunburnt leaves, here and there struggling through the fissures, as if to prove the utter sterility of the soil ; while total absence of water, and towering whirlwinds of dust, sand, and pebbles, raised by the furnace-like puffs that came stealing over the desert landscape, com- pleted the discomfiture both of man and beast. During the dead of night, when restless, unrefreshing slumbers on the heated ground had hushed the camp in all its quarters, the elders, in great consternation, brought a report that the Bedouin war- hawks, who nestle in the lap of the adja- cent wild mountains, were collecting in the neighborhood, with the design of ma- king a sudden swoop upon the kafilah, for which reason the European escort must be prepared for battle, and muskets be dis- charged forthwith, to intimidate the lurk- PASSAGE OF RAH EESAH. 39 ing foe. They were informed, in reply, that all slept upon their arms, and were in readiness. But Mohammad Ali came shortly afterward to announce, that mat- ters had been amicably adjusted, with the aid of a few ells of blue cloth ; and, under the care of a double sentry, the party slept on without further disturbance until two in the morning, prior to which hour the moon, now on her wane, had not attained sufficient altitude to render advance prac- ticable. The aid of her pale beams was indispen- sable, in consequence of the existence of the yawning pass of Rah Eesah, not one hundred yards distant from the encamp- ment just abandoned, but till now unper- ceived. It derives its appellation, as " the road of the Eesahs," from the fact of this being the path usually chosen by that hos- tile portion of the Somauli nation, on the occasions of their frequent forays into the country of the Danakil, with whom, singu- larly enough, an outward understanding subsists. Its depths have proved the arena of many a sanguinary contest, and are said, after each down-pouring of the heav- ens, to become totally impassable, until again cleared of the huge blocks of stone, the detritus from the scarped cliffs, which so choke the bed of the chasm, as to im- pede all progress. The labor of removing these, secures certain immunities to the wild pioneers, who levy a toll .upon every passing caravan, and who in this instance were propitiated, on application, by the di- vision of a bale of blue cotton calico, a manufacture here esteemed beyond all price. A deep zigzagged rent in the plateaux, produced originally by some grand con- vulsion of nature, and for ages the channel of escape to the sea of the gathered waters from Jebel Goodah, winds like a mytho- logical dragon through the bowels of the earth, upward of three miles to the south- ward. Masses of basalt of a dark burnt brown color, are piled perpendicularly on either side, like the solid walls of the im- pregnable fortresses reared by the Cyclops of old ; and rising from a very narrow channel, strewed with blocks of stone, and huge fallen fragments of rock, tower over- head to the height of five or six hundred feet. One perilous path affords barely suf- ficient width for a camel's tread, and with a descensus of one foot and a half in every three, leads twisting away into the gloomy depths below, dedicated to the son of Chaos and Darkness, and now plunged in total obscurity. It was a bright and cloudless night, and the scenery, as viewed by the uncertain moonlight, cast at intervals in the windings of the road upon the glittering spear-blades of the warriors, was wild and terrific. The frowning basaltic cliffs, not three hundred yards from summit to summit, flung au impenetrable gloom over the greater por- tion of the frightful chasm, until, as the moon rose higher in the clear vault of heaven, she shone full upon huge shadowy masses, and gradually revealed the now dry bed, which in the rainy season must often- times become a brief but impetuous torrent. No sound was heard save the voice of the camel-driver, coaxing his stumbling beasts to proceed by the most endearing expressions. In parts where the passage seemed completely choked, the stepping from stone to stone, accomplished with in- finite difficulty, was followed by a drop leap, which must have shaken every bone. The gun was twice shifted to the back of a spare camel, provided for the purpose ; and how the heavily laden, the fall of one of which would have obstructed the way to those that followed, kept their feet, is indeed subject of profound astonishment. All did come safely through, however, notwithstanding the appearance of sundry wild Bedouins, whose weapons and matted locks gleamed in the moonbeam, as their stealthy figures flitted in thin tracery from crag to crag. A dozen resolute spirits might have successfully opposed the united party : but these hornets of the mountains, offering no molestation, contented them- selves with reconnoitering the van and rear- guards from heights inaccessible through their natural asperity, until the twilight warned them to retire to their dens and hiding places ; and, ere the sun shone against the summits of the broken cliff-, the straggling caravan had emerged in safety from this dark descent to Eblis. Goobut el Kharab, with the singular sugar-loaf islet of Good Ali, shortly opened to view for the last time, across black sheets of lava, hardened in their course to the sea, and already rotten near the water's edge. Many years have not elapsed since the Eesah made their latest foray + o the north of the pass, which has since borne their name ; and sweeping off immense booty in cattle, halted on their return at Eyroladaba, above the head of the bay. Under cover of the pitchy darkness, five hundred Danakil warriors, passing silently through the gloomy defile, fell suddenly in the dead of night upon the marauders, when, in addition to the multitude slain by the spear and creese, numbers in the panic created by the surprise, leapt in their flight 40 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. over the steep lava cliffs, and perished in the deep waters of the briny basin. The schooner, although riding safely at anchor near the western extremity, was altogether concealed by precipitous walls that towered above her raking masts, and kept the party in uncertainty of her arrival. Crossing the lone va.'ley of Mar- monso, a remnant of volcanic action, rent and seamed with gaping fissures, the road turned uver a large basaltic cone, which had brought fearful devastation upon the whole surrounding country, and here one solitary gazelle browsed on stubble-like vegetation scorched to a uniform brown. Skirting the base of a barren range, cov- ered with heaps of lava blocks, and its foot ornamented with many artificial piles, marking deeds of blood, the lofty conical peak of Jebel Seearo rose presently to sight, and not long afterward the far-famed Lake Assal, surrounded by dancing mirage, was seen sparkling at its base. The first glimpse of the strange phe- nomenon, although curious, was far from pleasing. An elliptical basin, seven miles in its transverse axis, half filled with smooth water of the deepest cerulean blue, and half with a solid sheet of glittering snow- | white salt, the offspring of evaporation— j girded on three sides by huge hot-looking j mountains, which dip their bases into the very bowl, and on the fourth by crude half-formed rocks of lava, broken and di- vided by the most unintelligible chasms, — it presented the appearance of a spoiled, or at least of a very unfinished piece of work. Bereft alike of vegetation and of animal life, the appearance of the wilder- ness of land and stagnant water, over which a gloomy silence prevailed, and which seemed a temple for ages consecra- ted to drought, desolation, and sterility, is calculated to depress the spirit of every beholder. No sound broke on the ear: not a ripple played upon the water; the molten surface of the lake, like burnished steel, lay unruffled by a breeze ; the fierce sky was without a cloud, and the angry sun, like a ball of metal at a white heat, rode triumphant in a full blaze of noontide refulgence, which in sickening glare was darted back on the straining vision of the tainting wayfarer, by the hot sulphury mountains that encircled the still, hollow, basin. A white foam on the shelving shore of the dense water, did contrive for a brief moment to deceive the eye with an appearance of motion and fluidity ; but the spot, on more attentive observation, ever remained unchanged — a crystallized efflo- rescence. As the tedious road wound on over ba- salt, basaltic lava, and amygdaloid, the sun, waxing momentarily more intensely pow- erful, was reflected with destructive and stifling fervor from slates of snow-white sea-limestone borne on their tops. Still elevated far above the level of the ocean, a number of fossil-shells, of species now extinct, were discovered ; a deep cleft by the wayside, presenting the unequivocal ap- pearance of the lower crater of a volcano, situated on the high basaltic range above, whence the lava stream had been disgorg- ed through apertures burst in the rocks, but which had re-closed after the violence of the eruption had subsided. Dafari, a wild broken chasm at some distance from the road, usually contains abundance of rain water in its rocky pool, but having already been long drained to the dregs, it offered no temptation to hah. Another most severe and trying declivity had therefore to be overcome, ere the long and sultry march was at an end. It de- scended by craggy precipices many hun- dred feet below the level of the sea, to the small, close, sandy plain of Mooya, on the borders of the lake — a positive Jehannairu, where the gallant captain of the " Con- stance"* had already 4 been some hours ensconced under the leafless branches of one poor scrubby thorn, which afforded the only screen against the stifling blast of the sirocco, and the merciless rays of the re- fulgent orb over-head. Adyli, a deep mysterious cavern at the farther extremity of the plain, is believed, by the credulous, to be the shaft leading to a subterranean gallery which extends to the head of Ghoobut el Kharab. Deeni, most expert and systematic of liars, even went so far as to assert that he had seen through it the waters of the bay, although he admitted it to be the abode of " gins and efreets," whose voices are heard through- out the night, and who carry off the un- wary traveller, to devour him without re- morse. The latest instance on record was of one Shehem, who was compelled by the weariness of his camel, to fall behind the. caravan, and, when sought by his comrades, was nowhere to be found, notwithstanding that his spear and shield had remained un- touched. No tidings of the missing man having been obtained to the present hour, he is believed by his disconsolate friends to have furnished a meal to the gins in Adyli ; but it seems not improbable that some better clue to his fate might be af- forded by the Adriisi, an outcast clan of * Lieutenant Wilmot Christopher, I. JN. INDOMITABLE THIRST. 41 the Debeni, acknowledging no chief, though recognizing in some respects the authority of the Sultan of Tajura, and who wander over the country for evil, from Sa- gallo to the Great Salt Lake. Foul-mouthed vampires and ghouls were alone wanting to complete the horrors of this accursed spot, which, from its deso- late position, might have been believed the last stage of the habitable world. A close mephitic stench, impeding respiration, arose from the saline exhalations of the stagnant lake. A frightful glare from the white salt and limestone hillocks threatened destruction to the vision ; and a sickening heaviness in the loaded atmosphere, was enhanced rather than alleviated by the fiery breath of the parching north-wester- ly wind, which blew without any intermis- sion during the entire day. The air was inflamed, the sky sparkled, and columns of burning sand, which at intervals towered high into the dazzling atmosphere, became so illumined as to appear like tall pillars of fire. Crowds of horses, mules, and fetid camels, tormented to madness by the dire persecutions of the poisonous gad-fly, flock- ed recklessly with an instinctive dread of the climate, to share the only bush ; and obstinately disputing with their heels the slender shelter it afforded, compelled seve- ral of the party to seek refuge in noisome caves formed along the foot of the range by fallen masses of volcanic rock, which had become heated to a temperature seven times in excess of a potter's kiln^and fair- ly baked up the marrow in the bones. Verily ! it was " an evil place," that lake of salt : it was " no place of seed, nor of figs, nor yet of vines ; no, nor even of pomegranates ; neither was there any wa- ter to drink." CHAPTER XIV. FEARFUL SUFFERINGS IN THE PANDEMONIUM OF BAHR ASSAL. In this unventilated and diabolical hol- low, dreadful indeed were the sufferings in store both for man and beast. Not a drop of fresh water existed within many miles ; and, notwithstanding that every hu- man precaution had been taken to secure a supply, by means of skins carried upon camels, the very great extent of most im- practicable country to be traversed, which had unavoidably led to the detention of nearly all, added to the difficulty of re- straining a multitude maddened by the tor- tures of burning thirst, rendered the pro- 4 vision quite insufficient; and during the whole of this appalling day, with the mer- cury in the thermometer standing at 126° under the shade of cloaks and umbrellas — in a suffocating Pandemonium, depressed five hundred and seventy feet below the ocean, where no zephyr fanned the fevered skin, and where the glare arising from the sea of white salt was most painful to the eyes ; where the furnace-like vapor ex- haled, almost choking respiration, created an indomitable thirst, and not the smallest shade or shelter existed, save such as was afforded, in cruel mockery, by the stunted boughs of the solitary leafless acacia, or, worse still, by black blocks of heated lava, it was only practicable, during twelve te- dious hours, to supply to each of the par- ty two quarts of the most mephitic brick- dust-colored fluid, which the direst neces- sity could alone have forced down the parched throat, and which, after all, far from alleviating thirst, served materially to augment its insupportable horrors. It is true that since leaving the shores of India, the party had gradually been in training toward a disregard of dirty water — a circumstance of rather fortunate occur- rence. On board a ship of any descrip- tion the fluid is seldom very clean, or very plentiful. At Cape Aden there was little perceptible difference betwixt the sea wa- ter, and the land water. At Tajura the beverage obtainable was far from being improved in quality by the taint of the new skins in which it was transferred from the only well ; and now, in the very heart of the scorching Tehama, when a copious draught of aqua pura seemed absolutely indispensable every five minutes, to secure further existence upon earth, the detesta^- ble mixture that was at long intervals most parsimoniously produced, was the very acme of abomination. Fresh hides strip- ped from the rank he-goat, besmeared in- side as well as out with old tallow and strong bark tan, filled from an impure well at Sagallo, tossed, tumbled, and shaken during two entire nights on a camel's back, and brewed during the same number of in- tervening days under a strong distilling heat — poured out an amalgamation of pot- tage of which the individual ingredients of goat r s hair, rancid mutton fat, astringent bark, and putrid water, were not to be dis- tinguished. It might be smelt at the dis- tance of twenty yards, yet all, native and European, were struggling and quarrelling for a taste of the recipe. The crest-fallen mules, who had not moistened their crack- ed lips during two entire days, crowding around the bush, thrusting their hot nose^ 42 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. into the faces of their masters, in reproach- ful intimation of their desire to participate in the filthy but tantalizing decoction ; and deterred with difficulty from draining the last dregs, they ran franticly with open mouths to seek mitigation of their suffer- ings at the deceptive waters of the briny lake, which, like those of Goobut el Kha- rab, were so intensely salt, as to create smarting of the lips if tasted. Slowly flapped the leaden wings of Time on that dismal day. Each weary hour brought a grievous accession, but no alle- viation, to the fearful torments endured. The stagnation of the atmosphere continued undiminished ; the pangs of thirst increased, but no water arrived ; and the sun's des- potic dominion on the meridian, appeared to know no termination. At four o'clock, when the heat was nothing abated, distress- ing intelligence was received that one of the seamen, who during the preceding night had accompanied the captain of the schoo- ner-of-war from Goobut el Kharab, and had unfortunately lost his way, could nowhere oe found — the gunner, with six men, hav- ing long painfully searched the country side for their lost messmate, but to no pur- pose. Abroo, the son of whom old Aboo Bekr was justly proud, and who was indeed the flower of his tribe, immediately volun- teered to go in quest of the missing sailor, and he subsequently returned with the cheering intelligence that his efforts had been crowned with success. Overwhelmed by heat and thirst, the poor fellow, unable to drag his exhausted limbs further, had crept lor shelter into a fissure of the heated lava, where he had soon sunk into a stale of insensibility. Water, and the use of a lancet, with which the young midshipman who heroically accompanied the exploring party had been provided, restored suspend- ed animation sufficiently to admit of his patient being conveyed on board the " Con- stance" alive ; but, alas ! he never reached Tajiira ; neither did one of the brave tars who sought their lost comrade under the fierce rays of the sun, nor indeed did any of the adventurous expedition, escape with- out feeling, in after severe illness, the un- wholesome influence upon the human con- stitution of that waste and howling wilder- ness. But the longest day must close at last, and the great luminary had at length run his fiery and tyrannical course. String af- ter string of loaded camels, wearied with the passage of the rugged defile of Rah Eesah, were with infinite difficulty urged down the last steep declivity, and at long intervals, as the shadows lengthened, made their tardy appearance upon the desert plain ; those carrying water, tents, and the greater portion of the provisions most re- quired, being nevertheless still in the rear when the implacable orb went down, shorn of his last fierce ray. The drooping spirits of all now rose with the prospect of speedy departure from so fearful a spot. The commander of the friendly schooner, which had proved of such inestimable service, but whose protecting guns were at length to be withdrawn, shortly set out on his return to the vessel with the last dispatches from the embassy, after bidding its members a final farewell •, and in order to obtain wa- ter, any further deprivation of which must have involved the dissolution of the whole party, no less than to escape from the pes- tilential exhalations of the desolate lake, which, as well during the night as during the day, yielded up a blast like that curling from a smith's forge — withering to the hu- man frame — it was resolved as an unavoid- able alternative, to leave the baggage to its fate, and to the tender mercies of guides and camel-drivers, pushing forward as ex- peditiously as possible to Goongoonteh, a cleft in the mountains that bound the oppo- site shore, wherein water was known to be abundant. Pursuant to this determination, the European escort, with the servants, fol- lowers, horses, and mules, were held in readiness to march so soon as the moon should rise above the gloomy lava hills, suf- ficiently to admit of the path being traced which leads beyond the accursed precincts Of a spot, fitly likened by the Danakil to the infernal regions. Dismal, deadly, and forbidding, but deep- ly interesting in a geological point of view, its overwhelming and paralyzing heat pre- cluded all possibility of minute examina- tion, and thus researches were of necessity confined to the general character of tho place. Latitude, longitude, and level were however accurately determined,* and many were the theories ventured, 1o account :or so unusual a phenomenon. Obviously the result of earthquake and volcanic eruption — a chaos vomited into existence by " Th' infuriate hill that shoots the pillar'd flame." Dame Nature must indeed have been in a most afflicting throe to have given birth to a progeny so monstrous ; and there being no locality to which the most vivid fancy could assign aught that ever bore the name of wealth or human population, little doubt can exist that the sea must have been re- pelled far from its former boundaries. The oviform figure of the bowl, hemmed in on * These will be found in the Appendix, No. I. DISMAL NIGHT MARCH. 43 three sides by volcanic mountains, and on the fourth by sheets of lava, would at the first glance indicate the site of an extensive crater, whose cone having fallen into a sub- terranean abyss, had given rise to the sin- gular appearance witnessed. But it is a far more probable hypothesis that the Bahr Assal, now a dead sea, formed at some very remote period a continuation of the Gulf of Tajura, and was separated from Goobut el Kharab by a stream of lava six miles in breadth, subsequently upheaved by subter- ranean action, and now forming a barrier, which from its point of greatest elevation, where the traces of many craters still ex- ist, gradually slopes eastward toward the deep waters of the bay, and westward into the basin of the Salt Lake. While no soundings are found in the estuary of Ta- jura, Goobut el Kharab gives one hundred and fifteen fathoms, or six hundred and ninety feet ; and premising the depression of the lake to have been formerly corres- pondent therewith, one hundred and twenty feet may be assumed as its present depth. To this it has been reduced by the great annual evaporation that must take place — an evaporation decreasing every year as the salt solution becomes more intensely con- centrated, and evinced by the saline incrus- tation on the surface no less than by a horizontal efflorescence, in strata, at a con- siderable height on the face of the circum- jacent rocks. In the lapse of years, should the present order of things continue undisturbed from below, the water will probably disappear altogether, leaving a field of rock salt, which, when covered in by the debris wash- ed down from the adjacent mountains, will form an extensive depot for the supply of Danakil generations yet unborn ; and the shocks of earthquakes being still occasion- ally felt in the neighborhood, it seems not improbable — to carry the speculation still further — that Goobut el Kharab, divided only by a narrow channel from the Bay of Tajura, will, under subterranean influence, be, in due process of time, converted into a salt lake, in no material respect dissimi- lar from the Bahr Assal — another worthy type of the Valley of the Shadow of Death, CHAPTER XV. DISMAL NIGHT-MARCH ALONG- THE INHOS- PITABLE SHORES OF THE GREAT SALT LAKE. Scarcely had the moon dipped her first flickering beam into the unruffled surface 4* of the oval lake, and lighted the bluff cliffs for some hours previously shrouded in obscurity, than a loud war-cry from the adjacent heights echoed the assembly to arms, and the shrill blast of the Adai'el conch summoned all to the rescue. Aban- doning his occupation, each stalwart war- rior seized his spear and buckler, which had been laid aside while he aided in the task of reloading the camels for the ap- proaching night-march, and with respond- ent yells rushed fiercely toward the spot whence the alarm proceeded. The Eu- ropeans, springing from their broken slum- bers on the parched sands, stood to their arms. A long interval of silence and sus- pense succeeded, which was at last re- lieved by the return of Mohammad Ali, one of whose beasts had unfortunately slidden over a steep precipice, when the water-skins, bursting incontinently, had scattered the filthy but precious contents over the thirsty soil — an irreparable catas- trophe which had occasioned the call for assistance, believed by all to indicate a hostile gathering of the wild Bedouin clans. Of two roads which lead to Goon- goonteh from the shores of the dreary Bahr Assal, one skirts the margin of the lake by a route utterly destitute of fresh water ; while the other, although some- what more circuitous, conducts over high lava banks stretching some distance inland to Haliksitan, and past the small well of** Hanlefanta, where the drained pitcher of the fainting wayfarer may be refilled. On finally quitting the bivouac under the scrag- gy boughs of the dwarf acacia, where the tedious and most trying day had been en- dured — which each of the half-stifled party did with an inward prayer that it might never fall to his lot to seek their treache- rous shelter more — a fierce dispute arose among the leaders of the caravan as to which path should be adopted. " What matters it," urged the intolerant Moham- madan from Shoa, who had accidentally been found starving at Ambabo, and been since daily fed by the embassy — "what matters it if all these Christian dogs should happen to expire of thirst? Lead the Kafirs by the lower road, or, Allahu akbar, God is most powerful, if the waters of the well prove low, what is to become of the mules of the Faithful !" But the breast of the son of Ali Abi fortunately warmed to a more humane and charitable feeling than the stony heartof the " red man." With his hand upon the hilt of his creese, he swore upon the sacred Koran to take the upper path, and stoutly led the way, in defiance of all, after Izhak 44 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. and the ruthless bigots in his train had ac- tually entered upon a route, which the event proved must have involved the de- struction of all less inured than the savage to the hardships of the waste wilderness. ? T was midnight when the thirsty party commenced the steep ascent of the ridge of volcanic hills which frown above the south-eastern boundary of the fiery lake. The searching northeast wind had scarce- ly diminished in its parching fierceness, and in hot suffocating gusts swept fitfully over the broad glittering expanse of water and salt whereon the moon shone brightly —each deadly puff succeeded by the still- ness that foretells a tropical hurricane — an absolute absence even of the smallest ruffling of the close atmosphere. Around, the prospect was wild, gloomy, and un- earthly, beetling basaltic cones and jagged slabs of shattered larva — the children of some mighty trouble — forming scenery the most shadowy and extravagant. A chaos of ruined churches and cathedrals, eedgahs, towers, monuments, and minarets, like the ruins of a demolished world, appeared to have been confusedly tossed together by the same volcanic throes, that, when the earth was in labor, had produced the phe- nomenon below ; and they shot their di- lapidated spires into the molten vault of heaven, in a fantastic medley, which, under so uncertain a light, bewildered and per- plexed the heated brain. The path, wind- ing along the crest of the ridge, over sheets of broken lava, was rarely of more than sufficient width to admit of progress in single file; and the livelong hours, each seeming itself a century, were spent in scrambling up the face of steep rugged precipices, where the moon gleamed upon the bleaching skeleton of some camel that had proved unequal to the task — thence again to descend at the imminent peril of life and limb, into yawning chasms and dark abysses, the forbidding vestiges of bygone volcanic agency. The horrors of that dismal night set the efforts of description at defiance. An un- limited supply of water in prospect, at the distance of only sixteen miles, had for the brief moment buoyed up the drooping spi- rit, which tenanted each way-worn frame ; and when some exhausted mule was un- able to totter further, his rider contrived manfully to breast the steep hill on foot. But owing to the long fasting and priva- tion endured by all, the limbs of the weak- er soon refused the task, and after the first two miles, they dropped fast in the rear. Fanned by the fiery blast of the mid- night sirocco, the cry for water, uttered feebly and with difficulty by numbers of parched throats, now became incessant ; and the supply of that precious element brought for the whole party, falling short of one gallon and a half, it was not long to be answered. A tiny sip of diluted vinegar for a moment assuaging the burn- ing thirst which raged in the vitals, and consumed some of the more down-hearted, again raised their drooping souls ; but its effects were transient, and after struggling a few steps, overwhelmed, they sunk again, with husky voice declaring their days to be numbered, and their resolution to rise up no more. Dogs incontinently expired upon the road ; horses and mules that once lay down, being unable from ex- haustion to rally, were reluctantly aban- doned to their fate ; while the lion-hearted soldier, who had braved death at the can- non's mouth, subdued and unmanned by thirst, finally abandoning his resolution, lay gasping by the wayside, and heedless of the exhortation of his officers, hailed approaching dissolution with delight, as bringing the termination of tortures which were not to be endured. While many of the escort and follow- ers were thus unavoidably left stretched with open mouths along the road, in a state of utter insensibility, and apparently yield- ing up the ghost, others, pressing on to arrive at water, became bewildered in the intricate mazes of the wide wilderness, and recovered it with the utmost difficul- ty. As another day dawned, and the round red sun again rose in wrath over the Lake of Salt, toward the hateful shores of which the tortuous path wes fast tending, the courage of all who had hitherto borne up against fatigue and anx- iety began to flag. A dimness came be- fore the drowsy eyes, giddiness seized the brain, and the prospect ever held out by the guides, of quenching thirst immediate- ly in advance, seeming like the tantalizing delusions of a dream, had well nigh lost its magical effect ; when, as the spirits of the most sanguine fainted within them, a wild Bedouin was perceived, like a deliver- ing angel from above, hurrying forward with a large skin filled with muddy water. This most well-timed supply, obtained by Mohammad Ali from the small pool at Hanlefanta, of which, with the promised guard of his own tribe, by whom he had been met, he had taken forcible possession in defiance of the impotent threats of the ruthless " red man," was sent to the rear. It admitted of a sufficient quantity being poured over the face and down the parch- ed throat, to revive every prostrate and FIELD OF SALT— A BROOK. 45 perishing sufferer ; and at a late hour, ghastly, haggard, and exhausted, like men who had escaped from the jaws of death, the whole had contrived to straggle in'o a camp, which, but for the foresight and firmness of the son of Ali Abi, few indi- viduals indeed of the whole party would have reached alive. A low range of limestone hillocks, in- terspersed with strange masses of coral, and marked by a pillar like that of Lot, incloses the well of Hanlefanta, where each mule obtained a shield full of water. From the glittering shores of the broad lake, the road crosses the saline incrusta- tion, which extends about two miles to the opposite brink. Soiled and mossy near the margin, the dull crystallized salt ap- pears to rest upon an earthy bottom ; but it soon becomes lustrous and of a purer color, and floa*ing on the surface of the dense water, like a rough coarse sheet of ice, irregularly cracked, is crusted with a white yielding efflorescence, resembling snow which has been thawed and re frozen, but still, as here, with a crisp sound, re- ceives the impress of the foot. A well trodden path extends through the prismat- ic colors of the rainbow, by the longitudi- nal axis of the ellipse, to the northeastern extremity of the gigantic bowl, whence the purest salt is obtainable in the vicinity of several cold springs, said to cast up large pebbles on their jet, through the ethe- real blue water. At some distance from the beach was a caravan of Bedouin salt-diggers, busily loading their camels for the mnrkets of Aussi and Abyssinia, where it forms an article of extensive traffic and barter. Two other basins of a similar stamp, but inferi- or extent, which exist at no great distance to the northward, are styled " Ullool" and " Dus." The first of these producing salt of most exquisite lustre, is preferred by the Muda'ito tribes, from whose capital Aussa, it is not more remote than Doha, as they term the Bahr Assal, the right to frequent which is asserted as an exclusive privilege by the Danakil, who for centu- ries have actually held the monopoly un- disputed. Transferred in bulk in long- narrow mat bags, wrought of the date- leaf, it is exchanged for slaves and grain, and not only forms, as in other climes, one of the chief necessaries of life, but pos- sesses a specific value for the rock salt of the north, which, cut into rectangular blocks, passes as a circulating medium. A second low belt of hills, gypsum and anhydrite, succeeded by limestone over- strewed with basaltic boulders, forms the western bank of the molten sea, and opens into a mountain ravine. Taking its source at Allooli, the highest point of the Gollo range, this torrent strives to disem- bogue into the extremity of the lake, al- though its waters seldom arrive so far, save during the rainy season. The high basaltic cliffs that hem in the pebbly chan- nel, approximating in the upper course as they increase rapidly in altitude, form a I narrow waist, where the first running I stream that had greeted the eye of the 'pilgrims since leaving the shores of Asia, trickled onward, leaving bright limpid ! pools, surrounded by brilliant sward. Bowers, forever green, enlivened by the melodious w r arbling of the feathered crea- tion, and the serene and temperate air of the verdant meadows of Elysium, were absent from this blessed spot, but it was entered with feelings allied for the mo- ment to escape from the horrors of purga- gatory to the gates of paradise ; and un- der the shade cast by the overhanging cliffs, which still warded off the ardent rays of the ascending sun, it was with thankful hearts that the exhausted party, after the terrors of such a night, turned their backs upon the deadly waters of the stagnant lake, to quaff at the delicious rivulet of Goongoonteh an unlimited quan- tity of cool though brackish fluid. Here terminated the dreary passage of the dire Tehama — an iron-bound waste, which, at this inauspicious season of the year, opposes difficulties almost overwhelm- ing in the path of the traveller. Setting aside the total absence of water and forage throughout a burning tract of fifty miles — its manifold intricate mountain passes, barely wide enough to admit the transit of a loaded camel, the bitter animosity of the wild bloodthirsty tribes by which they are infested, and the uniform badness of the road, if road it may be termed, every- where beset with the huge jagged blocks of lava, and intersected by perilous acclivi- ties and descents — it is no exaggeration to state, that the stifling sirocco which sweeps across the unwholesome salt flat during the hotter months of the year, could not fail, within eight and forty hours, to destroy the hardiest European adventurer. Some idea of the temperature of this terrible re- gion, may be derived from the fact of fifty pounds of well-packed spermaceti candles having, during the short journey from Ta- jura, been so completely melted out of the box as to be reduced to a mere bundle of wicks. Even the Danakil, who from early boyhood have been accustomed to traverse the burning lava of the Tehama, never 46 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. speak of it but in conjunction with the devouring element, of whose properties it partakes so liberally ; and when alluding to the Lake of Salt, invariably designate it " Fire." CHAPTER XVI. AFFLICTING CATASTROPHE AT GOONGOONTEH. Goongoonteh, a deep, gloomy, zig- zagged fissure, of very straitened dimen- sions, is hemmed in by craggy lava and basaltic walls, intersected by dikes of por- phyry, augitic greenstone and pistacite, with decomposed sulphate of iron, all com- bining to impart a strangely variegated ap- pearance. Scattered and inclined in vari- ous directions, although towering almost perpendicularly, they terminate abruptly in a rude pile of rocks and hills, through a narrow aperture in which, the path to the next halting-ground at Allooli, where the torrent takes its source, strikes off at an angle of 90°. Huge prostrate blocks of porphyry and basalt, which have been launched lrom the impending scarps, and now reduce the channel to this narrow passage, are in places so heaped and jammed together by some mighty agency, as to form spacious and commodious caverns. In the rainy season especially, these doubtless prove of wonderful convenience to the wayfarer ; and no tent arriving until late the following day, the reassembled party were fain to have recourse to them for shelter against the fierce hot blast from the Salt Lake, which, unremitting in its dire persecutions, now blew directly up the ravine. But the rocks soon became too hot to be touched with impunity; and the oblique rays of the sun, after he had passed the meridian, dart- ing through every aperture, the caves were shortly converted into positive ovens, in which the heat, if possible, was even more intolerable than ever. Unlike former sta- tions, however, there was, in this close unventilated chasm, a luxurious supply of water to be obtained from the living rill which murmured past the entrance ; and, although raised to the temperature of a thermal spring by the direct influence of the solar rays, and withal somewhat brackish to the taste, it was far from being pronounced unpalatable. Notwithstanding that the neighborhood afforded neither the smallest particle of forage nor of fuel, it became necessary, in consequence of the non-arrival of one half of the camels, no less than from the ex- haustion of many of the party, to halt a day in the hot, unhealthy gully ; and this afforded to the treacherous creese of the lurking Bedouin an opportunity of accom- plishing that which had only been threat- ened by drought and famine. The guides objecting strongly to the occupation of the caves after nightfall, on account of the many marauding parties of Eesah and Mudaito, by whom the wady is infested, every one, as a measure of precaution, slept in the open air among the baggage, half a mile lower down the ravine, where the caravan had halted. The dry, sandy bed of the stream was here narrow, and the cliffs, broken, for a short distance on either side, into hillocks of large, distinct boulders, again resumed their consistency after an interval of one hundred yards, and inclosed the camp in a deep gloom. The straitened figure of the bivouac rendered it impossible to make arrange- ments with much regularity in view to defence.. The horses were pickeited in the centre of th-j ravine. The European escort occupied a position betwixt them and the northern side, and the scanty beds of the officers of the party were spread close to the southern bank. A strong picket of the Danakil was placed a little distance in advance ; and, in addition to the numerous other native guards in vari- ous quarters, the usual precaution was observed of mounting a European sentry, whose beat extended the length of the front of the encampment. Old Izhak slept close to the beds of the embassy, and, ev.dently in a state of great trepidation, solaced him- self until a late hour by recounting bloody tales of murder and assassination, perpe- trated, within his knowledge, by the moun- tain Buddoos haunting the ravine of Goon- goonteh, which, being the high road to the Salt Lake, forms the resort of numerous evil-disposed ruffians, who are ever on the prowl to cut throats, and to do mischief. The first night, although awfully oppres- sive from the heat exhaled from the baked ground, and the absence of even the small- est zephyr, passed quietly enough ; and after another grilling day, which seemed to have no termination, spent within the caverns, the same nocturnal arrangement as before was observed with undiminished precaution. An hour before midnight, a sudden and violent sirocco scoured the wady ; the shower of dust and pebbles raised by its hot blast, being followed by a few heavy drops of rain, still as the sleep of death. The moon rose shortly after- ward ; and about two o'clock a wild Irish yell, which startled the whole party from MIDNIGHT ALARM— MURDER. 47 their fitful slumbers, was followed by a rush of men, and a clatter of hoofs toward the beds of the embassy. Every man sprang instinctively on his feet, seized a gun, of which two or three lay loaded be- side each, and, standing on his pillow with weapon cocked, prepared for the reception of the unseen assailants. Fortunate was it that no luckless savage, whether friend or foe, followed in the disorderly retreat, or consequences the most appalling must inevitably have ensued ; but the white legs of half-naked and unarmed artillerymen having passed at speed, were followed only by a crush of horses and mules that had burst from their pickets. So complete was the panic caused by a sudden start from deep sleep to witness the realization of the murderous tales of midnight assas- sination which had been poured into their ears, that the flying soldiery, who in the battle-field had seen comrades fall thick around them, and witnessed death in a thousand terrific forms, were rallied with difficulty. But a panic is of short dura- tion, if officers perform their duty ; and the- word " Halt !" acted like magic upon the bewildered senses of the survivors, who, falling in, formed line behind the rifles. Hurrying to the spot which they had occupied, a melancholy and distressing sight presented itself. A sergeant and a corporal lay weltering in the blood with which their scanty beds were deeply stained, and both were in the last agonies of death. One had been struck with a creese in the carotid artery immediately below the ear, and the other stabbed through the heart ; while, speechless be- side their mangled bodies, was stretched a Portuguese follower, with a frightful gash across the abdomen, whence the intestines were protruding. Aroused in all proba- bility during this act of cold-blooded mur- der, and attempting to give the alarm, he had received a fatal slash as the dastards retreated ; but almost instantaneous death had followed each previous blow of the creese, which, while the back of the sen- tinel was turned, had been dealt with mor- tal and unerring precision. Two human figures being perceived at the moment the alarm was first raised, crossing the iower gorge of the ravine, and absconding toward the hills which bounded the further extremity of the camp, were promptly pursued by Moham- mad Ali and his band of followers, who had seized spear and shield with the ut- most alacrity; but although the moon shone bright, and the stars twinkled in the firmament, the broken and stony nature of the ground, facilitated the escape of the miscreants under the deep shadow cast by the overhanging mountains, where objects could not be distinguished. This afflicting catastrophe gave birth, in the breast of all, to a by no means unnat- ural feeling of distrust toward the escort engaged on the sea-coast, not only as to their ability, but also as to their intention to afford protection. The European party had lain down in full and entire confidence, only to be aroused by the perpetration of this most diabolical and fiendish deed ; and although those who had been so fortunate as to escape, might, now that they had be- come aware of the existing peril, defend their own lives, yet such an alternative, involving the abandonment of all the gov- ernment property in charge, was far from being enviable. Upon after investigation, however, it appeared probable, as well from the evil character borne by the gloomy ravine, as from the numberless murders known to be annually committed under similar circumstances of wanton atrocity, among the native kafilahs en route^ that a party of the Eesah Somauli, in- habitants of the opposite coast of Goobut el Kharab, but who, to gratify an insatiate thirst for human blood, are in the habit of making frequent incursions into the coun- tray of the Danakil, had seized the oppor- tunity afforded by the absence of the sentry, at the farther extremity of his beat, to steal unperceived down the inum- brated bank of the hollow T , and perpetrate the dasjtardly and cold-blooded outrage. No attempt to plunder appeared as an excuse for the satanic crime, and the only object doubtless was the acquisition of that barbarous estimation and distinction which is only to be arrived at through deeds of assassination and blood. For every victim, sleeping or waking, that falls under the murderous knife of one of these fiends in human form, he is entitled to dis- play a white ostrich plume in the woolly hair, to wear on the arm an additional bracelet of copper, and to adorn the hilt of his reeking creese with yet another stud of silver or pewter — his reputation for prowess and for bravery rising among his clansmen in proportion to the atrocity of the attendant circumstances. At per- petual strife with the Danakil, although the chiefs of the tribes are on outward terms of friendship, and even of alliance, no opportunity is lost of retaliating upon the mountain Bedouin — every fresh hos- tility creating a new blood feud, and each life taken on either side, being revenged two-fold, ad infinitum. 48 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Ere the day dawned, the mangled bodies of the dead, now stiff and stark, were con- signed by their sorrowing comrades to rude but compact receptacles of boulder stones — untimely tombs constructed by the na- tive escort, who had voluntarily addressed themselves to the task. And a short prayer, suited to the melancholy occasion, having been repeated as the mortal remains of each gallant fellow, enveloped in a blood-stained winding-sheet, were lowered to their wild resting-place, three volleys of musketry, paying the soldier's last tri- bute, rang among the dark recesses of the ravine, when the hurried obsequies were concluded by scaling the entrance to the cemeteries, in which, however, it is not probable that the dastardly sons of Satan — still doubtless watching with savage satisfaction from some inaccessible cranny — long suffered their victims to sleep. In the grave-like calm of the night, under the pale light of the wan moon, which only partially illumined the funereal crags that hemmed in the dreary chasm, and rose in gloomy sadness over the vaults of the departed, the scene was mournful and impressive. Mohammad Ali, Izhak, and Hajji Kasim, with all their retainers, appeared deeply touched by the fatal oc- currences that had so thinned the ranks of a party for whose lives they had made themselves responsible ; but they referred the event to fate, and to the Almighty fiat, adding that, although they were unable to restore the dead to life, or undo that which by the will of Heaven had been done, their own eyes should never close in t-sep so long as danger was to be apprehended from the dreaded Eesah, whose only honor and wealth consists in the number of foul butcheries with which their consciences are stained, and whom even savages con- cur in representing as sanguinary and ferocious monsters, " fearing neither God nor devil." CHAPTER XVII. THE STRICKEN FOLLOWER DIES. CAIRNS OF THE MURDERED. ALLOOLI AND BEDI KURROOF. It had been intended to march at break of day to Allooli, the source of Wady Goon- goonteh; but the absence of several of the camels, which had gone astray during the nocturnal confusion, caused delay in this den of iniquity until ten o'clock. The altered deportment of the chiefs meanwhile tended materially to banish from the mind suspicion of treachery. Heretofore, witk the single exception of Mohammad Ali, all had been cold, unfriendly, or insulting ; but from the moment of the late catastro- phe, their manner was visibly changed, and the anxiety evinced for the safety of the survivors under their charge was unre- mitting. They formed a circle round the party whensoever seated, and not a single white face was for a moment suffered to wander beyond their sight unattended by a clump of spears. The wound of the unfortunate Portu- guese had been pronounced mortal, and his dissolution was hourly expected ; but life still glimmering in the socket, he lingered on with fearful groans, although speechless, and too nearly insensible to be aware of what had passed". Placed upon a litter, arranged as comfortably as circum- stances would permit, the attempt was made to convey him to the next ground, but the rough motion of the camel doubt- less hastened the termination of his suffer- ings ; and the wretched man breathing his last ere he had journeyed many miles from the scene of his misfortunes, was interred under a date- tree by the road-side, in a grave ready prepared for his reception. The last rains having washed away an artificial bank of stones, which had for- merly facilitated the ascent of the difficult and dangerous passage leading from Goon- goonteh into the Wady Kelloo — as the up- per course is denominated — a delay of two hours was at first starting experienced in the bed of the torrent, during which all were on the alert. Two huge pointed rocks, abutting on opposite angles of the acute zig-zag, reduced it to a traversed waist, so narrow, that room for the load to pass was only afforded, when the long-leg- ged dromedary swung its unwieldly car- cass alternately from side to side — the steepness of the acclivity, rendering it very frequently necessary to perform this inconvenient evolution upon the knees. Many became jammed, and were unladen before they could regain an erect position : while others were, with infinite difficulty, by the united efforts of a dozen drivers, who manned the legs and tail, saved from being launched with their burthens over the steep side of the descent, which con- sisted of a treacherous pile of loose rub- bish. To the surprise of every spectator, the train passed through the defile without any material accident ; and thence proceeded to pick their steps among the rocks, pools, and fissures, which abound in every moan- tain torrent, whose course is short and pre- THE CAMP FORTIFIED. 49 eipitous. Flanked by perpendicular sheets of basalt and porphyry, of unwholesome oulphury appearance, beneath which many deep pools of cool water had collected, the tortuous road was at intervals enlivened by clumps of the doom palm, environed by patches of refreshing green turf — sights from which the eye had long been estrang- ed. Nine miles of gradual ascent, brought the caravan safely to the encamping ground at the head of the stream — a swamp, sur- rounded by waving palms and verdant rushes, occupying high table-land, and af- fording abundance of green forage to the famished cattle. Most fortunately the sky had proved cloudy, or the march, performed during the hottest hours of the day, would indeed have been terrific. Hence to Sagallo, the dismal country is in the exclusive occupation of a wandering race of the Danakil, who, notwithstanding that the Sultan of Tajilra claims the sove- reignty of the entire waste, only acknow- ledge his impotent authority, during their occasional sojourn among the huts of that sea-port. The guides asserted, with many imprecations, that from time immemorial, few kafilahs had ever halted at Allooli, without losing one or more of its mem- bers by the Adrusi creeses, or by those of the Eesah ; and on the bank opposite to the shady clump of doom palms, under whose canopy the residue of the day was passed, numerous cairns, consisting of circular piles of stone, similar to those left at Goon- goonteh to commemorate the outrage of the preceding night, stood memorials of the dark deeds that had been perpetrated. During about three years, the road from Abyssinia to the sea-coast, was completely closed by hordes of these ruffian outcasts, who continued their murderous depreda- tions on every passer-by, until Lohei'ta, the akil of the Debeni, a young, daring, and warlike chieftain, succeeding to the rule on the demise of his father, routed the banditti after a severe struggle, and re- opened the route. The Wady-Kelloo is, however, still permanently infested by par- ties of wild Bedouins, who skulk about the rocky passes : lie in wait for stragglers from the caravan : assassinate all who fall into their ruthless clutches: and, when time permits, further gratify their savage propensities, by mangling and mutilating the corse. " See how the cowardly scoundrels marked me," exclaimed the fiery old war- rior Ibrahim Shehem Abli, drawing aside his checked kilt, and displaying sundry frightful seams, which had doubtless been the work of a sharp knife. " Behold these tokens of Eesah steel upon my thigh ; I received them in this wild wady ; but, by Allah, I had a life for every one of them. We have a blood feud now ; and it be- hoves all who are not weary of the world, to look well to their own throats." Lurking bandits excepted, who prowl about like the midnight wolf, the Axlaiel tribes, although sufficiently barbarous and quarrelsome by nature, are fortunately in a great measure restrained from deeds of ferocity, by the certain consequences of spilling blood. None are anxious to in- volve their family or tribe in a mortal feud, nor would any warrior, incurring the al- most inevitable consequences of a twofold retribution, find support from his clansmen, unless sufficient cause could be shown ; and thus, even in the most lawless states of society, are checks imposed by absolute necessity, which prove almost as powerful as the more civilized legal restraint, upon the human passions. Although Allooli was represented to be even more perilous than Goongoonteh, it possessed, in point of locality, immense superiority ; and every advantage that could be devised, was taken of its capabil- ities for defence. The baggage formed in a compact circle on an open, naked plain, was surrounded by a line of camels, and the mules and horses were placed in the centre next to the beds of the party. Guards and sentinels patrolled under an officer of the watch; and at the solicitation of the ras el kafilah, who was exceedingly anxious to avoid the inconvenient conse- quences of a blood feud, a musket was dis- charged every hour at the relief of sentries, in order to intimate to the evil-minded that all within the breastwork were not asleep. Notwithstanding the presence, in the immediate neighborhood, for several days previously, of a large band of Eesah, the hot night passed without any alarm. The non-arrival, until long after daybreak, of the camels lost at Goongoonteh, added to the length of the next march, obliging the abandonment of the intention entertained, to speed beyond the pale of this site of assassination, the party halted on the lOth- Allooli stands two hundred and twenty- eight feet above the sea, and although in- tensely hot, and its waters saline, it proved a paradise when compared with every pre- ceding station. Here animal life was once more abundant. A horde of pastoral sava- ges, who from time to time appeared on the adjacent heights, were made acquaint- ed with the effect of rifle bullets, by the slaughter from the tent door of sundry- gazels that visited the swamp; and the- 50 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. venison, afforded a most seasonable acces- sion to the empty larder, which was further replenished from the trees overhead, whose fan-like leaves gave shelter to a beautiful variety of the wood pigeon. Shortly after midnight the march was resumed by the moon's light over a suc- cession of small barren terraces, confined by conical and rounded hills. In the lone valley of Henraddee Dowar, which opens into the wide level plain of Gurgiiddee, there stood by the wayside a vast pile of loose stones, half concealed among the tall jaundice-looking flowers of the senna plant. Toward this spot ensued a general race on the part of escort and camel-drivers, who each added a pebble while repeating the Arabic auguration, Nauzu billdhi mhia Shaytani r rajim" — Let us flee for refuge to God from Satan the stoned." A tragic legend was attached to the cairn, which, from the dimensions attained, must have dated from a remote epoch. A hoary old man, accused in days long gone of inces- tuous intercourse with his own daughter. was arraigned before a tribunal of his as- sembled tribe, and, being fully convicted, was on this spot stoned to death, together with his fair partner in guilt. Throughout Syria and Palestine it is to this day the practice of all who pass the mounds raised over those who die in crime, and whose memory it is intended to dishonor, thus to contribute a stone, as well with a view to perpetuate the monument, as to shield themselves from evil by manifesting the detestation entertained of the infamy com- memorated. Gurgiiddee, eight miles in length, and Stretching on either hand to the far hori- "zon, is bounded by steep mountain ranges, whence an alluvial deposit washed down by the rains, presented over the whole of the level plain a surface of cracked and hardened mud, like that of a recently-dried morass. From the southern side, where the clayey tract is thickly clothed with stunted tamarisk and spartium, a road strikes up the valley in a north-westerly direction to the Mudaito town of Aussa, distant some three days' journey for a car- avan. As the day dawned, the steeple necks of a troop of ostriches were perceiv- ed nodding in the landscape, as the gigan- tic birds kicked the dust behind their heavy heels ; and a herd of graceful gazels were seen scouring toward a belt of stony hil- locks which skirted the dry pebbly bed of a river, that expends its waters on the sun- dried plain. Ascending this stream, in which were a few stagnant pools of bitter unpalatable water, a human figure was de- tected skulking behind some thick green tamarisks by which they were overshad- owed. But on being perseveringly hunt- ed down by Mohammad Ali and his wild myrmidons, the prisoner proved to be a Debeni in quest of truant camels — his attempt at concealment having, according to his own account, arisen from the ap- pearance of so many mounted cavaliers, whom he had mistaken for a foraging party of the Eesah, and was naturally desirous of eluding. The caravan halted early at Bedi Kur- roof, after a march of sixteen miles, and the camp was formed on a stony eminence of basalt and lava, affording neither tree nor shade. A day of fierce heat succeeded. There was no forage for the cattle ; the water was of the most brackish descrip- tion ; and the spot being of old infested by Bedouins, the party passed a restless and watchful night. A legend of blood, too, was attached to this wild bivouac, as to most others on the road, and thus it was related. One of the young men of a Danakil caravan returning from Abyssinia, fatigued by the hot jour- ney, lay down to rest his weary limbs be- neath the shadow of a rock, near which the tent of the embassy now stood. It was yet broad daylight, but a band of lurking Eesah presently pounced upon the way- farer, like the eagle on its prey, and, ere he could resume his weapons, had stabbed him to the heart. The dying groans of the murdered man being heard by his com- rades, a number of warriors started in hot pursuit of the flying assassins, and after a severe chase, succeeded in capturing the whole gang. Two were immediately spear- ed to death upon the principle of two drops of blood for one ; and the remaining mis- creants, four in number, having been strip- ped of their clothes and arms, were kicked forth out of the place. " The Eesah of these hills," continued the narrator of this tale, as, by the light of the blazing watch-fire, he fashioned a rude wooden bolster for the preservation of his greasy peruke during approaching slumbers, " are perfect Shaytans. Outcasts from their tribe, bands of ten or more here wander up and down like wild beasts, cut- ting the throats of all they meet, whether infidels or true believers — not for the sake of gain or plunder, but purely to gratify an innate propensity to murder. The mon- sters train for these blood forays upon raw flesh and marrow, and, well anointed with sheep's-tail fat, can travel day and night, during the hottest season, without suffering FIRST HUMAN HABITATIONS. 51 from fatigue. Allahu akbar ! but they are devils incarnate !" " Who has seen the Eesah, who has heard the Eesah ?" wildly challenged Mo- hammad ibn Izhak, starting upon his feet, and clashing his now finished bolster against his buckler, as he concluded this harangue. " Who has seen the Eesah, who has heard the Eesah ?" shouted a doz- en voices in various quarters of the extend- ed camp. " Uncover your shields, uncov- er your shields ! Count well their spears, that not a man of them escape !" " We have not seen them, we have not heard them," responded the patroles on duty. " No Eesah are here. Sleep on in peace !" CHAPTER XVIII. TERRITORIES OF THE DANAKIL DEBENI. SUGGADERA, MURRAH, DTJDDEE, AND GO- BAAD. Some hours before dawn on the 12th, the kaiilah was again loaded and in motion across a low belt of stony eminences which gradually descend to the Kori Wady, a long water-course, varying in width from two to four hundred yards. Threading the moist channel of this stream, where the foot often absolutely left an impression on the sand, and passing the watering pool of Leile, the road ascended a deep valley to the halting ground at Suggadera, in the country of the Danakil Debeni. The en- tire borders were flanked by dwarf palms and drooping tamarisk, bounded by low hills with cliffs of conglomerate and sand- stone, which disclosed dikes of porphyry at an acute angle. Flocks of goats, dili- gently browsing on the fat pods which fall at this season from the acacia, were tended bv ancient Bedouin crones in greasy leath- ern peticoats, who plaited mats of the split date-leaf; while groups of men, women, and children, lining the eminences at every turn, watched the progress of the stranger party A pastoral race, and subsisting chiefly upon the fermented juice of the palm, and upon the milk derived from numerous flocks of sheep and goats, or from a few breeding camels, the Debeni, a division of the Danakil, are during certain months of the year engaged in the transportation of salt from the deadly Bahr Assa to the Mudaito town of Aussa, where it is bar- tered for grain. Architecture affords no term applicable to a structure of any kind inferior to a hut or hovelt or it might with propriety be applied to the base jumble of rough stone and shavings of the date stalk, tenanted by these nomade savages, who are divided into clans, and have no fixed habitations. Nevertheless there was some- thing cheering in the aspect even of these frail edifices, the first human tenement which had greeted the eye since leaving the sea-coast, now ninety miles distant. Bare, desolate, and fiery, the entire inter- vening tract, although infested by the lurking robber and the midnight assassin, may be pronounced in all its sultry parts, utterly unfitted for the location of man. Water of rather an improved description was obtained at Suggadera, under basaltic rock, stained green by carbonate of copper. But not a particle of forage was to be had ; and the heat, reflected from a pebbly hill, beneath which the tent was erected, brought the mercury in the thermometer to 118°, during the greater portion of the day ; and the evil appearance of the place, surrounded by gloomy hills cast into the deepest shadow, led to the maintenance of ■a vigilant watch during the dark night. Although disturbed at the early hour of 1 a. M.,and denied further repose save on the bare ground, the loss of a camel, which was not recovered until late, so far retarded advance, that only four miles were achieved on the 13th. The road continued to wind with a gentle ascent along the bed of the Wady Kori, the hills gradually diminish- ing in apparent height until they merged into the elevated plain of Murrah, which exhibited pebbles of pink quartz, with a few scanty tufts of sweet-scented grass, yellow and withered. Here, at the dis- tance of two miles from a puddle of dirty rain-water, in defiance of the impotent ras el kafilah, the camel drivers, who stu- diously avoid trees and the vicinity of a pool, resolved to halt, as being a place after their own hearts. In the dry water-course just left, the chirruping of some solitary hermit bird, and the bursting bud of a certain dwarf shrub which clothed the borders, agreeably re- minded the traveller of more favored climes. But. most completely was the il- lusion dispelled by the forbidding aspect of the sultry plain of Murrah. Monotonous fields strewn with black boulders, glaring in the sun, distressed the gaze wheresoever it was turned — each cindery mass seeming as though it had been showered down du- ring a violent irruption of some neighboring volcano ; although, on nearer inspection, it proved to be the time-worn fragment of an extensive lava sheet. The bare stony plain was decorated with numerous cairns, 52 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. marking deeds of treachery and blood ; and at the distance of twenty miles rose a lofty range of hot table-land, behind which the Abyssinian river Hawash is lost in the great lake at Aussa. The presence at the watering-place of a host of wild Bedouins, whose appearance was far from prepossessing, again induced the cautious elders to anticipate an attack; and the camp occupying a very unfavora- ble position for warlike operations, no lit- tle difficulty was experienced in making defensive dispositions. A gloomy black hill threw its impenetrable shadow imme- diately in front ; and on the flank, a pile of half-ruined sheepfolds, constructed of blocks of lava, afforded extensive conceal- ment. The night however passed away without any aWm, and the intense heat of the day giving place to a somewhat cooler atmosphere, admt ed of sleep by turns in some comfort — parties of the Danakil es- cort contriving by chanting their wild war chorus, to keep their heavy eyes longer open than usual. An hour after midnight the loading com- menced, and the steep rocky hill having been surmounted by a path strewed with loose stones, a terrace of slow ascent, pre- senting the same dreary appearance of rocks and lava boulders, continued during the residue of the moon's reign. At break of day, however, the aspect of the country began rapidly to improve. Gaining the higher and more salubrious level of Gula- jno, the bare sterile land, strewed w T ith black blocks of lava which tore the feet with their jagged edges, was fast giving place to sandy plains covered with dry yellow grass — a most welcome prospect for the exhausted cattle. Heretofore, sav- ing in the wadys, no tree had been seen except small stunted leafless acacias, few and far betwe?n, and scarcely deserving of the name. Several small ravines were now choked with continuous groves, and a mountain stream termed Chekaito, which rises in the country of the Eesah, and in the rainy season disembogues into the lake at Aussa, was thickly clothed on both sides with green belts of tamarisk, wild caper, and other wood, overhung with creeping parasites, and affording food and shelter to birds. The pensile nests of the long-tailed loxia depended from the boughs ; and while the stems, covered with drift to the height of fifteen feet, gave evidence of a headlong course during the rains, water, even at this season, was here and there to be ob- tained. Heaps of louse stones thrown carelessly together, mark in almost every direction the spot where the victim lies who has been cut off by some cold-blooded miscre- ant — melancholy monuments connected each with a tale of assassination. But on the banks of the Chekaito many acres of ground are covered with stones of memo- rial, such as were raised over Absalom, and over Achan the king of Ai, each sur- rounded by a circular cordon which bears the stamp of high antiquity, and has evi- dently witnessed the passage of ages. These sepulchres are said to cover the bones of the heroes who fell in a battle fought on the spot at the period that the country was first wrested from the shep- herds. "Hai," the designation of the spot itself, is applied also to the entire sur- rounding district, which is stated to have been formerly peopled by the Gittertza, a gigantic pastoral race, who, under the chief Sango, were at enmity with all the surrounding tribes, but are now extinct. After five times crossing the serpentine bed to the point of junction with the Sa- gulli, where ostriches cropped the grass around numerous deserted sheep-pens, the caravan finally halted at Duddee, no great distance from Ramudele. For days to- gether the pilgrimage had led across dreary and desolate wastes, and through sterile ravines where no verdure relieved the eye, no melody broke upon the ear, and so few living creatures were to be seen, that the unwonted appearance of a solitary butterfly which had become be- wildered in the desert, was duly hailed as an event. The general character is that of a stern wilderness, parched by the in- tolerable heat of a vertical sun blazing in fierce refulgence over the naked land- scape, of which the chief varieties consist in immense plains of dry cracked mud, or in barren rocks towering toward an un- clouded and burning sky. Tne otter ste- rility of the soil is rather marked than al- leviated by occasional sickly plants of most puny growth, and by the scanty ver- dure of the few valleys wherein water is to be found, generally in a state of stag- nation. But at Duddee, forage and fuel were abundant. The water obtained by digging in the channel of the stream was no longer brackish. The heat, although the thermometer rose to 110°, was infi- nitely more endurable than it had hitherto proved ; and the insatiable thirst by which all had been incessantly tormented on the lower ground, had well-nigh disappeared. A march of twelve miles over a succes- sion of grassy plains, untenanted by man or beast, but presenting the first cone of the termites that had been seen, brought LOHEITA IBN IBRAHIM. 53 the party on the 15th to the inclosed val- ley of Gobaad, a thousand and fifty-seven feet above the ocean. Voleanic ashes, jasper, chalcedony, and quartz, strewed the sandy route, low volcanic ridges, of comparatively recent formation, intersect- ing the landscape from west to east. The encamping ground, among heaps of hard gravel, near which water was good and plentiful, had only two years previously formed the scene of the discomfiture oi the ras el kafilah and his party, who had been plundered of all they possessed by two hundred and fifty mounted Eesah. The recollection of the disaster being green in his memory, he had, before leav- ing Duddee, donned his folio Koran, in the place of a duodecimo edition which pre- viously graced his shoulder. This was a not-to-be-mistaken sign of " khouf fee*" and with a terror-stricken face he now came to intimate, that the presence of a band of these lawless ruffians in the op- posite hills, together with a gathering of the Muda'ito at the neighboring pools of Sabala and Dagateli, leaving no sort of doubt upon his mind of a meditated attack during the night, it behoved every man to be more than usually on the alert. The equanimity of the brother of the Sultan of Tajilra was somewhat disturbed at the assurance in reply to this exhorta- tion, that the Danakil camel-owners were the thieves most to be dreaded, their dirty and dishonest fingers being unhesitatingly thrust into the bags of rice and dates, whensoever opportunity proved favorable ; and that the hired escort, whose business it was to prevent the mal-appropriation of the property of the embassy, far from as- sisting to keep watch, left the duty to be performed by the Europeans, and invaria- bly went to sleep on their posts. " Not one of them shall close his eyes to-night, at all events," grumbled the ras. « : I shall myself superintend the business, and see to the safety of the camp ; for, by the life of the Prophet, this is an evil spot !" As the red sun went down, there was certainly a considerable display of erect spears ; but their number gradually dimin- ished as the night closed in ; and when the ten o'clock sentry was relieved, Izhak was snoring aloud, according to his wont, while each doughty warrior lay fast asleep, with his greasy head upon his shield, and his broad lance in the precise position that it assumed, when it fell frorr die relaxed grasp of the slumberer. * i. e. There is danger to be apprehended. CHAPTER XIX. INTERVIEW WITH THE OGRE. Lohei'ta ibn Ibrahim, makobunto, akil, or chief of the Debeni and a section of the Eesah, asserting supremacy over Go- baad, as a portion of his princely domin- ions, which extend from the Great Salt Lake to Ramudele, a messenger had, im- mediately upon the arrival of the caravan, been dispatched to his encampment in the neighborhood, to invite the hero to the tent ; and the peaceful night passed, hav- ing inspired the leader of the alarmist party with new confidence, the non-arrival of the expected visitor was made an ex- cuse for halting the following day. Attended by a numerous and disreputa- ble retinue, dragging as a gift an obstinate old he-goat, the potent eavage, whose ex- ploit of clearing the high road of the restless marauders, who long obstructed the passage of kafilahs, has already been noticed in terms of commendation, saun- tered carelessly in during the early hours of the forenoon. Not one w T hit better clad than the ragged and greasy ruffians in his train, he was yet distinguished by weapons of a superior order — the shaft of his spear, which resembled a weaver's beam, being mounted below the broad glit- tering blade with rings of brass and copper, while the hilt and scabbard of a truly for- midable creese were embellished in like ostentatious fashion. The wearer's aris- tocratic air, and look of wild determination, were well in unison with the reputation he had acquired as a warrior chief. Long raven locks floated like engle's feathers over a bony and stalwart frame. A pair of large sinewy arms, terminated in fingers tipped with nails akin to bird's claws, and the general form and figure of the puissant makobunto, brought forcibly to mind the ogre in the nursery tale, who breakfasted on nought save the flesh of tender inno- cents, and was cut short in his career of cannibalism by Jack the giant-killer. A mighty man of valor, and presiding over a numerous clan of fierce and savage war- riors, he is feared and respected by all the country round, and seemed to be right vrdil aware of his consequence upon the road. For some reason of his own, which he did not think proper to divulge, the audi- ence was deferred until dusk, when the warrior stalked consequentially into the tent, and deposited himself between the arms of a chair placed for his reception. 54 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. with as much dignity and self-possession as if he had never in his life been seated upon the ground. Although his covering was restricted to a very dirty cotton cloth, he wrapped himself in the impenetrable mantle of silence, and comprehending no Arabic, gave ear to all the compliments that were translated for his edification into the Dankali tongue, with the most perfect indifference and mental abstraction ; until, having swallowed a sufficiency of hot coffee, and stuffed his nostriJs with a be- coming modicum of Regent's mixture, he deigned to lay aside a portion of his re- serve, and in slow, measured language, vouchsafed a brief detail of the energetic measures that had been adopted at his be- lies", toward the recovery of certain horses sent by his ally, the King of Shoa, to her Britannic majesty, and which had, by some unfortunate mischance, been stolen in their transit through Gobaad ; adding, that he would impart to the embassy the boon of his protection, and in earnest thereof, might probably condescend the favor of his countenance a few stages in advance. Izhak with his compeers sat in gloomy silence during the entire conference, evi- dently annoyed at the good understanding that subsisted betwixt his rival Mohammad Ali, and the illustrious guest. The pres- ents designed for the propitiation of the ogre hiving been duly transferred, were eagerly clutched, and hastily conveyed be- neath his buckler, or below the ample folds of his greasy garb, as being far too choice for the prying eyes of attendants ; and after sitting another half hour in taci- turn dignity, the prince of savages rose deliberately from his chair, and, loaded with broadcloth and trinkets, walked away as he had come, without condescending to pay attention to, or say a parting syllable to any one. The extraordinary hour chosen for this curious audience, had obviously been dic- tated by a desire to conceal from the cov- etous gaze of the wild spirits around him, the tribute which he had reasonably cal- culated upon receiving from the British pilgrims, on the occasion of their transit through his territories ; for, in truth, it must be confessed that the social state of these savages does not by any means be- tray that primitive simplicity so lauded and extolled by Rousseau. Rude barbarians they are, saturated with Moslem intoler- ance as with mutton fat; and although they tend their flocks in the parched valley after the most approved Arcadian fashion, yet the persons of even the boldest chiefs are not always secure : and however poets may have embroidered the subject with the flowers of their fancy, there is not to be found one individual of the whole com- munity, who would hesitate to cut a throat for the sake of the last remaining button on a waistcoat. Betwixt savage and civilized existence there yawns a wide gulf. The savage man and the civilized man, although descended from a common parent, can scarcely be said to belong to the same stock of human- ity, and he who has been pronounced the only true man, the lordly lord of the wil- derness, might here more appropriately be designated a devil incarnaie. An inter- esting trait in the children of nature was witnessed on the occasion of the slaugh- ter of the rank buck goat presented to the embassy by Loheita ibn Ibrahim. No soon- er had the razorlike creese been drawn across the throat, with the concomitant ejaculation, " Bismillahi rahmani raliim" — " in the name of God, the compassion- ate," the' merciful," — than a savage threw himself upon the expiring animal ; and having, vampire-like, quaffed as much of the hot flowing blood as he could obtain, besmeared his greasy features with the re- sidue, and wiped them on the still quiver- ing carcass. No tiger could have acted in more ferocious guise, or displayed a greater relish for the tide of life. This had been a day of feasting and carousal ; for both Izhak and the son of the Rookhba chief had likewise received sheep, and the slaughter of each had been followed by a general tussle for the pos- session of the caul. For the purpose of larding the head, this is a prize infinitely preferred even to the tail, which appendage in the Adel sheep is so copiously furnish- ed, that the animal is said to be capable of subsisting an entire year upon the absorp- tion of its own fat, without tasting water. It was truly delightful to witness the pro- cess of greasing the poll at the hands of the Danakil barber. The fat having been melted down in a wooden bowl, the opera- tor, removing his quid, and placing it in a secure position behind' the left ear, pro- ceeded to suck up copious mouthfuls of the liquid, which were then sputtered over the frizzled wig of a comrade, who, with man- tle drawn before his eyes to exclude stray portions of tallow, remained squatted on his haunches, the very picture of patience. The bowl exhausted, the operator careful- ly collecrs the suet that has creamed around his chaps as to render him inartic- ulate ; and having duly smeared the same over the filthy garment of him to whom CHIEFS OF THE EESAH. 55 it in equity belongs, proceeds, with a skew- er, to put the last finishing touch to his work, which, as the lard congealed, has gradually assumed the desired aspect of a line full-blown cauliflower. The Dankali who . has prevailed over his foe, adorns his cranium with a perfect frost of tallow, dons a leopard-skin decora- ted with monkey tails three times in excess of the highest bashaw in the Ottoman em- pire, and tricks himself out with feathers in all the variety of savage fancy, the lobe of his ear being pierced for the reception of pewter rings,. which denote the number of his victories achieved. Many warriors thus distinguished had strolled in during the day ; for there had been an onslaught upon the Eesah, who among other recent atrocities, had, only the preceding week, ripped up six pregnant Debeni females. The same wearisome string of inquiries on the part of each member of the kafilah, were responded to in the same cold monot- onous drawl, and then bandied back by the new arrival — apathy and indifference per- vading the features of both parties through- out the endless mechanical repetitions of " WogerriV and " Wogerri maaniV To Gebaad, from the shores of Lake Abhibbad, which is formed by the waters drained from Abyssinia, it is said to be one easy day's journey for the pedestrian. Among other Muda'ito visitors from its borders, there came one of the Galeyla, an outcast from his clan, who bore among his fellows the reputation of being a veri- table cannibal. This villain became at once the cynosure of every eye, and stood confessed the vilest of the vile. A coil of putrid entrails which encircled his neck, had been distended with mutton fat into the figure of monstrous sausages ; and the shaggy mane of a filthy hyena, that he had destroyed and devoured the preceding day, being twined in a becoming wreath around his dark brow, mingled wildly with his dishevelled locks. Under the gaze of so great a crowd, his calm repose was calcu- lated to elicit the highest admiration ; and fully sensible of his own merit, the man- eater endured the scrutiny of the curious populace with an air of conscious dignity, which was scarcely disturbed when the temerity of the more juvenile spectators called imperatively for the interference of his heavy mace. It is difficult to comprehend the motives which may have induced this worthy to venture thus rashly among his bitterest foes ; but the nature of the terms occasion- ally subsisting between the Muda'ito and the Danakil are not more singularly ano- malous than those that bind the Danakil and the Eesah, over a portion of which latter Lohei'ta ibn Ibrahim exercises nomi- nal supremacy. Making common cause, and assisting each other against the Mu- da'ito, international hostilities are never- theless almost unceasing ; and mutual in- terest, added to the aversion entertained to the perpetuation of blood feuds, affords perhaps the only substantial argument for their temporary cessation. Of three chieftains who take the title of ougass, and whose authority is in some sort acknowledged by the Eesah, the prin- cipal is Ougass Robiley, who resides with the Gidderboosi, south of Zeyla. Hoos- sain ibn Fara, the next in order, is related by marriage to the makobunto of the De- beni, and asserts influence from the Reah- moosa tribe of Somauli, bordering on Goo- but el Kharab, to Kore Koragureet, within thirty miles of Zeyla, where commences- the country of the Hebrowal — thence south to the limits of the Galla territory, and northwest to Killulloo. Here it is bound- ed by Errur, the residence of the old ske'ikh, of the Woema, and by the independent Mo- hammadan principality of Hurrur, whose ameer annually confers upon each Eesah chief a conical skull cap and turban, in re- cognition of his alliance. Not a cloud blotted, the sparkling vault overhead, which now blazed out in a per- fect galaxy of light, engirdled by the lumi- nous zone in the milky way. Attention was early directed to its beauties by the showers of meteors that in rapid succession shot through the innumerable host of hea- ven, and temporarily eclipsed their brill- iancy. The night was already somewhat advanced when Lohe'ita sent to demand a private audience upon two points of vital importance; and Mohammad Ali being the agent employed, no time was lost in ar- ranging the desired interview. " My beard is troublesome," whispered the ogre in a most mysterious tone, after he had been some minutes seated in silence ; " my tough beard is not readily trimmed with a creese, and a razor would therefore have been de- sirable." A first-rate Savigny was imme- diately placed within his grasp. "And, secondly," he continued, trying the keen edge upon the largest of his formidable talons, " my sister, who is far advanced in her pregnancy, has lately rejected food — mutton, beef, everything in fact has been offered, and equally loathed. Now I am desirous of trying whether she might not fancy a bag of dates." 56 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. CHAPTER XX. SHOWING HOW THE OGRE ACQUITTED HIM- SELF AT GOOTABELLA. Many and tragic were the tales narrated of the prowess of the ogre when the hot blood of youth boiled in his warrior veins. The first feat of his early days, ascribed to the year of the great comet, is still green in every recollection ; and as it was re- counted by Ibrahim Shehem, so was it vouched for by those of the Danakil braves, who during the recital crowded around the watch-fire at Gobaad. The gray- bearded elders had sat for many nights in deep consultation, and the chicken-hearted of the Debeni had ex- hausted all the usual epithets upon the countless number of the foe, and the con- sequences of rash and fool-hardy adven- ture, w T hen the youthful chief raised his manly form in the circle, and his brawny proportions seemed to dilate into colossal stature in the dimness of the evening mist. " Listen to my words," he exclaimed, " for they are the sentiments of my heart. Children of Lohe'ita, hearken to the voice of your leader ! Has the spirit of the foul hare entered into the breast of the war- rior ? Is the shield no longer to clash, nor the broad spear to glitter in the valley of Gobaad ? Are the Debeni tamely to suf- fer their wives and their daughters to be carried into captivity, their flocks and their herds to be swept off, their wells to be taken possession of, and their very name made the scorn and the laughing-stock of the dastardly Mudaito, without one strug- gle to prevent it ? Dust be upon my head if the brave sons of the desert should thus root themselves in a quiet spot, like the withered and dying acacia, without a sin- gle thorn to avenge an insult ! Rouse ye, my children, for in the name of the most holy Prophet I will even dare the danger of the war ; and ignominy sully the fame of him who shall suffer his chief to mingle singly in the strife." Reseating his sinewy form upon the rock, Lohe'ita covered his face in the folds of his garment, and in anxious silence awaited the result of this appeal. But the chord of feeling had been struck by a mas- ter hand. A low murmur of voices was quickly followed by the deep hum of ap- probation accompanying the confused clat- ter of the bucklers, and the elders, rising simultaneously, proclaimed, "It is the voice and the will of the Most High. Even so let it be !" The erect spears sank with one accord to the ground, and the stern " Ameen" of the assembled tribe, rolled ominously among the surrounding cliffs. For some days after this harangue, the Debeni maintained a peaceable demeanor ; but it was now the still, treacherous calm which precedes the hurricane. The Ga- leyla Mudaito, who had already possessed themselves of all the choicest grazing grounds in the neighborhood, and com- pletely closed the caravan route from Abys- synia to the sea-coast, meanwhile contin- ued their depredations with impunity ; one subdivision of the tribe settling in the small valley of Gootabella, where they erected permanent habitations, and boast- ed of their unmolested vicinity to the graves of the ancestors of Lohe'ita. The Galeyla subdivision of the great na tion of Mudaito had rendered itself more particularly obnoxious by its aggressions- Many were the young men of Gobaad wh( had fallen under their sharp knives. Scorn ful taunts were ever rife upon the tips of their insulting tongues ; and few indeed of the huts in the valley had not at some pe« riod sent forth the voice of wailing an4 lamentation for captive maids or for harrie* flocks. But the day of dire retribution wa> fast speeding on. The wane of the mooi was the appointed signal of rendezvous U the heretofore slothful tribe ; and as tba darkness of the unlit night shrouded the valley and the hill, all those members of the clan whose spirit had not been utterly quelled by the frequent disasters experi- enced at the hand of the sanguinary inva- der, mustered around their youthful chief. Silently, like the descending wreath of snow, the tiles of warriors poured in from every quarter of his extensive though dis- tracted domain. The nation had respond- ed to the call of its leader ; and the wrinkled brow, and the full oily cheek : the thin sin- ewy shank of the veteran, and the grace- ful form of the untried but aspiring strip- ling, were soon mingled together. The sun set upon a busy scene in the lone val- ley of Gobaad. Two thousand savages, enjoying the rude feast that had been amply provided for their wants, w T ere en- gaged in close- whispering consultation on the coming strife ; and wrought to a pitch of frenzy by the spirit-stirring words of their warlike chief, no less than by the exhortations of his wily emissaries, who, ever and anon, mixed with the carousing groups, to feed their panting passions against the hereditary foe, each warrior firmly clenched his teeth in dread deter- mination, while he whetted his sharp wea- pon to the keenest edge upon the nearest stone. THE MASSACRE OF GOOTABELLA. 57 As the fire blazed brightly upon shield, and spear, and stalwart frame, Loheita moved forth in front of his inclosure, buck- led for the fray. His active form was ful- ly revealed by the fitful flame ; and a dark smile played for the moment over his stern visage, as his followers, rising with one ac- cord, unsheathed their murderous creeses, and, bursting into a loud murmur of ap- plause, swore by the sacred volume that the steel should "that night reek in the hot blood of the accursed Mudai'to. Placing himself at the head of his ani- mated retainers, the chief now led the ad- vancing van, and the tramp of the eager savage fell light over the steep mountain and the boundless plain. Deep darkness was esteemed of small account by these children of the desert, who, like the course of the falling thunderbolt, held on their progress in the true direction. Starting as the dense phalanx advanced, the timid gazel scoured in terror over the valley, and the prowling lion yielded the path to men who were now in a mood not less desperate than his own. The last rocky defile gained, a deep im- penetrable gloom pervaded the scene. The very stars were hid under a partial mist, and nought gave token of the habitation or the presence of man, save at intervals the disturbed bleat of captive Debeni flocks. " They were ours once," scornfully mut- tered the chief betwixt his closed teeth, "and, Wullah! if there be faith in the sharp steel of a true believer, they shall this night return to their pastures." " All know the valley of Gootabella," observed the narrator, "closely hemmed in on three sides by towering cliffs, over one perpendicular rock at the neck of which, the river Chekaito, leaping, extends its sandy bed throughout the entire centre, so that ten resolute spirits might defend the only outlet against countless legions. None save the sons of asses would have pitched their tents in that spot ; but the Galeyla were overweeningly conceited and vain of their exploits, and held in utter contempt the dispossessed proprietors of the soil, whom they had hitherto so easily despoiled." No timely note of alarm announced the approach of danger ; and the noiseless step of the foe gliding unheard round the devo- ted hamlet, it was encompassed on every side. Infuriate warriors in appalling si- lence beleaguered the narrow aperture of each matted wigwam. The recollection of captive and murdered relatives, of burn- ing huts and harried flocks, entered deep into the stern soul of each grim assailant ; and as the edge of the naked creese was passed cautiously along the finger, a prayer was breathed on high to the throne of the Eternal Avenger. The unsuspecting inmates of every abode were hushed in deep repose. The spear lay entangled in the folds of the scattered garments, the shield had been cast idly in the corner, and the warrior, surrounded by his wives and little ones, was wrapped in peaceful rest, such as he was wont to en- joy when lulled by the gentle murmur of the breaking waves of the Bahr el Shub, in his own far distant land. The suffocating fumes of smoke soon stole upon the sense of the drowsy slum- berers ; the crackling of flames aroused all abruptly from their dreams of security, and the lurid glare that enveloped the blazing hamlet caused each affrighted inmate to rush to the door, where the crooked steel, driven by the hand of desperate revenge, was sheathed in many a bare bosom. Sudden, electric, and complete was the surprise, and vain were the efforts of the unarmed warrior. Loheita raged through the scene like the demon of the angry el- ement, and each follower ruthlessly strove to emulate his example. A dozen spear- blades transfixed the body of every fugitive. Two thousand of the foe fell during the murderous onslaught ; and in that fearful night all ancient injuries were well washed out in the warm blood of the Mudaito. The pent-up wrath of the savage, like the checked waters of an impetuous moun- tain torrent, bursting all bounds, careered along without restraint Mockery and insult were bandied back to the frantic screams of the women, as their tender babes were barbarously pitched into the hissing flame ; and the red sun rose above the beetling crags to witness a frightful scene of carnage and desolation. Flocks and herds had burst from their folds, and betaken themselves to the wil- derness. Scorched and mangled bodies thickly strewed the ground, or lay half consumed among the smouldering embers of the pile. The groans of the dying min- gled with the bitter wailing of captive fe- males bereft of husband and offspring ; and the chief surrounded by his exulting host sat in grim triumph beside the dense col- umn of smoke, which with an eddying flame ascended high into the vault of heaven from the black and burning monument to De- beni vengeance. A deep fissure in the bowels of the hill, had given refuge to a determined few who had sought safety within its rocky sides : but the keen eye was not long in discov- 58 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ering the dim track of the fugitives ; and the insatiate chieftain, speeding upon the trail, tore from the aperture the thorns and overhanging shrubs, and dashed into the cave with spear and buckler. The only resistance made during the foray was in this last stronghold ; and Loheita received a deep wound on the breast, the scar of which will be borne to his grave. Des- peration nerved the limbs of the surviving Galeyla, who, well knowing that no quar- ter would be granted, sullenly fought on with the few weapons they had snatched up in their hurried flight ; but all died in the unequal strife upon the spot where they had taken their last stand. Crowned with brilliant success., the re- turn of the dauntless young chief from his first expedition was swelled by troops of captive maids and by the pillaged herds of years. But the triumph had been achieved with no trifling loss to his clan. The bod- ies of thirteen braves, borne by their com- rades upon* green branches of the palm, closed the order of march, and the war- chorus pealed wildly among the rocks as the victorious host poured back through the valley of Gobaad. A burst of savage acclamation, which 2*ose shrill and high in the noontide heat from the assembled population, was suc- ceeded by a solemn pause as the dread ti- dings were imparted to the relatives of the fallen. A path was cleared through the now hushed and silent phalanx, while muf- fled females, beating their bare breasts, passed toward the biers between the open ranks. The boldest and the bravest had been untimely cut ofT; and their widows, throwing themselves upon the lifeless bodies, indulged for a season in the most piercing shrieks and extravagant grief. But the deep loud chant of the elders, "It is the decree of the Most High," drowned the hysterical sobs of the bereaved ; and the host again moved on in boisterous mirth to indulge, after the successful foray, ac- cording to the bent of their inclinations, and prepare for a series of achievements, which have since cleared the surrounding plains. To this day none but the boldest dare, after nightfall, to enter the valley of skulls. The moans of the Galeyla warriors, who fell in the affray, are heard amid the fune- real sighing of the wind ; the plaintive song of the Bedouin maid still chronicles the event ; and long will be remembered in the red house of Mudaito the night of the mas- sacre of Gootabella. CHAPTER XXI. SANKUL AND SUG GAGED AN. DAWATLAKA AND AMADOO IN THE LIMITS OF THE GALEYLA MUDAITO. Ascending by an extremely bad road the broken range to the southward, which commands a fine prospect over the valley of Gobaad, the kafilah reached Sankul on the 17th. It forms the focus of several small dales, converging from the table-land, and shut in from all breeze by the sur- rounding steep black cliffs of basalt, pass- ing into hornblende. A small cave near the encamping ground, was occupied by a colony of industrious bees ; and at the only well, flocks of the diminutive black- faced Berbera sheep, were drinking from a trough formed of ox-hide stretched be- tween four stakes, to which the water was transferred in gourds by greasy Bedouin shepherdesses. The evening was passed in perpetual wrangling with these matrons during the operation of filling up the wa- ter-skins ; and sad presage was afforded of a coming day of drought, which the ex- hausted and sinking cattle of the caravan were hourly waxing less able to endure. The next march led over the high table- land of Hood Aii, a stony level thickly studded with dry grass, and extending in one monotonous plateau far as the eye could reach. The fetid carrion-flower here presented its globular purple blossoms among the crevices, and a singular medi- cinal plant, lab-lubba, was detected by the keen eye of a savage, who had before evinced a latent taste for botanical studies. The usual encamping ground at Arabdera was found to be preoccupied by a nomade tribe of Bedouin goat-herds, who monopo- lized the scanty water. Descending the range, therefore, the bluff brow of which commanded an extensive prospect over the wide level valley of Dullool, the kafilah halted at Suggagedan. This arid spot in the strand- like waste was covered with masses of lava, and with blocks of basalt from the adjacent hills. It was parched by a burning atmosphere, and afforded no water whatever — calamities which resulted in the abandonment of a horse and two of the mules, that were no longer able to bear up against thirst and fatigue ; while many others now dragged their weary limbs with difficulty, and seemed but too well disposed to follow the example. Dullool is one thousand two hundred and twenty.eight feet above the level of the sea — a perfect flat, covered with alluvial WILD ASSES— DECEPTIO VISUS. 59 deposit, and studded with extensive tracts of eoarse, dry grass in tufts, among which, as the almost interminable string of camels crossed the following morning, both os- triches and gazels were descried. It is bounded by a bold mountain range ; and the farther extremity of the plain, to- ward the foot of Jebel Marie, is perfectly bare, stretching away to the westward, in one uninterrupted sheet of hard, compact mud, which imparts the aspect of the Runn of Cutch. A herd of wild asses, precisely similar to those found on the Indian salt desert, materially enhanced the resem- blance ; and the sun, which had now at- tained considerable altitude, casting his rays in a full blaze over the naked plain, called up the dancing mirage, that was alone wanting to complete the picture. On this level expanse, which terminates in a cul-de-sac, shut in by high basaltic walls, inaccessible either to man or beast, the Adaiel affect to ride down the wild ass, upon lean mules forsooth, and to rip up the quarry with their creeses. There had been much vainglorious talking upon this head, but it ended, like every Dauakil boast, in nothing. The hawk-eye of che ogre detected an out-lying mare a*iong the ravines at the foot of the range ; and he dashed off the road with such lightning- speed, that the animal narrowly escaped being hemmed into a corner ; iut once on the broad desert, and she tossed her arched neck, kicked up her war*.on heels, and laughed at the absurd efforts of her impo- tent pursuers. IiOose stones again itrewed the approach to the Marie range, which is of trap form- ation, of a slaty texture, stained with red iron oxide, and' intersected by veins of iron clay. A breach in the hills, here about a thousand or twelve hundred feet high, form- ed a steep sloping ridge of lava rocks, con- taining quantities of carbonate of lime, dis- posed in rhomboids and hexagonal sheets. In this nook, surrounded by a thick jungle of acacia, were sundry basins filled with clear water, to which the solar rays had not penetrated. They afforded most re- freshing draughts ; and the skins having been replenished, the encampment was formed at Dawaylaka, a full mile beyond. Marie is not a word of either Arabic or Dankali derivation ; whence it seems not improbable that this bold range of hills may, in days of yore, have been named by some wanderer from the West. A fine fresh morning succeeded to a very sultry night, passed upon the hard hot stones ; and, at break of day, the cattle having been taken to the pools, where, at 5* so early an hour, they would drink but lit- tle, the skins were again replenished, and the caravan pursued its march to Oomer- gooloof, which can boast of no water at any season. Of two roads, the lower, but more level, was adopted, in consequence of the exhaustion of the beasts of burthen. It led across a dry, desert plain of six miles, over which thf delusion of mirage was complete. Coding the valley, as far as the eye could r^ach, to the foot of the hills, which rise abruptly on all sides, it imparted the appearance of an extensive bay, shut in oy projecting headlands — a still calm kke, so unmoved by the wind that every cliff was most distinctly reflect- ed on the mirror of its glassy bosom. Approaching from a higher level, a rip- ple pUyed upon the surface of the vision- ary water ; and the vapor being too subtle to screen irregularities of the ground, the aqueous expanse soon became gradually disunited, until it ultimately vanished alto- gether. The scene, cool and pleasant while it endured, formed a striking contrast to the baked alluvial desert under foot, destitute of even a vestige of vegetation, but over which was wafted a zephyr as unlooked-for as refreshing. Thrown in a particular way, and on certain atoms, rays of light produce illusions to the vision which are often em- bodied after the likeness of objects most deeply dwelling in the imagination. Thus it was that the character of the headlands of Dullool, square and perpendicular, to- gether with an islet riding like a ship at her cable in the centre of the molten basin, aided the striking similarity of names in the respective neighborhoods, to bring vividly before the eyes of all, the apparition of the bay of Goobut el Kharab. Immediately opposite to Oomergooloof is a projecting spur from Jebel Oobnoo, a lofty range visible to the westward ; and this divides the plain into two valleys, whereof the southernmost is denominated Wada Arfa. The Marie range here towers over- head, steep and precipitous, to the height of about nine hundred feet ; stupendous masses of rock which have been detached from the summit, and strew the entire base, corroborating the assertion of the Danakil that earthquakes are frequently felt in the vicinity. Nomade tribes with their families and flocks, having settled at the wells which exist at a distance, had compelled the gen- tler portion of the Libyan creation to resort to regions more blest with water ; and not even a desert-loving gazel was espied du- ring the march of twelve miles. Ibrahim Shehem Abli had long viewed with the eye of bigoted disapproval, the at- 60 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tentions paid by one of the Mohammadan followers to two canine companions of the party, pets that had survived the passage of the fiery Tehama, but whose feet had become so lacerated by the hot lava boul- ders as to incapacitate them from walking. Quilp — for so the offending Moslem was styled from his striking resemblance to that notable character — was in the act of extri- cating his wire-haire& charge from the panniers wherein they travelled, when the irascible little warrior *<*oproached, and, drawing his trenchant blaa\ swore with a dreadful anathema to exterminate him on the spot. " Dog, and father of dogs," he exclaimed, seizing the dismayed mortal by the throat, " beware how thou agai* defilest thy fingers with those accursed curs^ or by the beard of the Prophet I will sever thy gullet as one who has brought Soul dis- credit upon the faith." Then relaxing his grasp, and sheathing his creese with a hori- zontal flourish, he threw himself into \he attitude of a slaughtered victim, and closed the significant lecture by mimicry of the gurgle heard in a divided windpipe, whence the tide of life is welling. Several herds of cattle pertaining to the Issehiraba Mudaito, grazed in the neigh- borhood ; and these were said to derive their supply of water from pools formed by a cluster of hot sulphureous springs at the farther extremity of the plain, which, with a loud noise, rise bubbling from the earth at a boiling temperature. Possessing mar- vellous medicinal properties, they, are be- lieved to be a panacea for every malady : but the tribe not being on terms with the Danakil, these thermal wells could not be visited, neither could water be obtained either for man or beast. A few Mudaito females, with their children, strolled into the camp to sell sheep, and stare at the Feringees ; but the ras el kafilah would scarcely permit them to be spoken to, and was in a nervous fidget until they departed. Avowing that these greasy dames had come for no other purpose than to spy out the nakedness of the land, and that the creeses of their liege lords would prove trouble- some during the night, he strictly inter- dicted all wandering beyond camp limits, and insisted upon the discharge of several volleys of musketry in addition to the car- tridge expended at guard-mounting, and at every relief of sentries. The sky having become gradually over- cast toward evening, a deluge, equally to be desired and dreaded, was deemed close at hand ; but the threatening appearance passed off with the hot blast of the shimal, accompanied by a cloud of dust, and fol- lowed by a close oppressive night. Skirting the Marie range to a tract thickly strewed with rounded masses of lava and basalt, the detritus from the adjacent hill, the road now wound over a volcanic ridge which divides the valley of Dullool from that of Amadoo, running exactly parallel to it. In this lat- ter the caravan halted on the 21st, about a mile from a large pool of rain-water, occu- pying a rocky nook formed by huge blocks of basalt. The stagnant green fluid was far more palatable than it looked, although troubled by a legion of horned cattle, asses, goats, and sheep, the property of the Ga- leyla Mudaito, who were encamped in great force in the neighborhood, and looked what they are said to be — most desperate villains. Altogether it was a bustling scene. Herdsmen shouted in every direction to their kine, whose sinister glances and low- ered heads proclaimed their dislike of the white intruders ; flocks of Somauii sheep, with incommodiously overgrown tails, swam about like otters to cool their heated fckins ; numbers of Bedouin damsels, after laving their own greasy persons, replenish- ed their dirty water-skins ; and one wrin- kled tld hag, in direct breach of the Moslem prejudge against " man's friend," was ab- solutely detected in the act of cleansing the rough « at of her own pet-dog. This pastoral scene of savage life, where the peaceful occupation of the shepherd contrasted strap.gely with the presence of spear and buckle.-, was about midday ex- changed for the tent A crowd of listless, tattooed savages, bearing very indifferent characters for honesty, soon swaggered in to see what they could ^>ick up, and pres- ently waxed so passing insolent, that it was deemed prudent to intimidate them by a display of rifle-practice. Emboldened by numbers, they had begun to question old Izhak regarding his right to conduct strangers through the country, without the permission, first duly obtained, of the " lords of the soil ;" but seeing the stones fly about in splinters, at two hundred and fifty yards, they were not long in decamp- ing, and gave no further annoyance. The Galeyla tribe of Mudaito, which still boasts of the most expert and notorious thieves in the country, is, as might be conjectured, on no very amicable terms with the Dana- kil ; and the very severe chastisement it received at the hands of Loheita ibn Ibra- him sufficiently accounted for the sudden desertion of the unattended ogre, who donned his seven-league boots, and strode back to his castle from Dawaylaka, after THE ASSA HIMERA— AUSSA. 61 he had pledged himself to accompany the party to the borders of the territory occu- pied by Mohammad Ali's clan. From Amadoo, Aussa was represented to be only one day's journey for a swift mule, and two for a caravan of laden ca- mels, the road branching off across Wady Arfa, and over the Jebel Oobnoo range, by which the extensive valley is bounded. At this point, moreover, had ceased the pretended influence of Mohammad ibn Mohammad, Sultan of Tajura, the utter futility of propitiating whom had long been sufficiently apparent. Although in the eyes of the uninitiated it was no difficult matter to invest this avaricious imbecile with supreme authority over a fiery deso- late tract, in most parts obviously unfitted for human location, his own immediate re- tainers did not now conceal that Mirsa Dukhan, and the Gollo mountains near the Salt Lake, bound even his nominal juris- diction. He is, in fact, sultan of the sul- try strand whereon his frail tenement is erected ; for the few lawless wanderers beyond, over whom he would assert su- premacy, are universally thieves and mur- derers, who disdain all fixed abode, disclaim all mortal control, and acknow- ledge their own unbridled inclinations as their only master. CHAPTER XXII. RED HOUSE OF MUDAITO. CHRONICLE OF THE CONQUEST OF AUSSA. Distinguished like the houses of York and Lancaster by their respective colors, "the white house" of Debenik-Woema, composed of various Adai'el clans, who, in time of need, rally under one standard, is banded against the Assa-himera, " the red house" of the Mudaito, with the same bit- ter feud and animosity which spread deso- lation through the fair domains of England, and poured out the best blood of her he- roic sons. Well would it be for the cause of humanity were these savage combatants animated also with the same noble and chivalrous feelings which, in days of yore, reigned paramount in the breast of the British knight, and met together in the open field of honorable contest. But the case is widely different indeed ; and under whatever circumstances the hated and hereditary foe may here be discovered, the unarmed bosom of the lone, sleeping, or un- suspecting wanderer, rarely fails to prove a sheath for the murderous knife of the assassin. Aussa, formerly an important town, was, less than a century ago, the capital and principal seat of the united tribes of Mudai- to, who extend thence to Ras Billool, and are represented to be countless as the hairs of a Danakil head. Regarded as the seat of wisdom and learning, and governed in the latter days of its strength, by Yoosuf Ali ibn Ajdahis, a brave and martial sul- tan, whose armory boasted of many match- locks, and of several small pieces of cannon, it long flourished in powerful independ- ence — a bright spot of beauty in a waste of barrenness. But the sun of its pros- perity at length set ; and the predatory hostilities long exercised toward the various united tribes of Adai'el, leading to a general invasion on the part of the Ado-himera, the prince was slain, the stronghold of the " red house" sacked, and its garrison put to the sword : nor in these degenerate days is this once important place more than an extensive encampment, whereat is held a perpetual fair, frequented by all the tribes of Danakil, Eesah, Somauli, and Mudaito. The site of Aussa, a wide-stretching valley, described to be from eight to ten days' journey across for a caravan, is hemmed in by lofty mountains, and fer- tilized in all of its extended quarters by the Lakes Guraaid, Abhibbab, Hilloo, and Dugod — the first situated a little to the eastward of the town, and the last by far the largest of the four. These vast stagnant basins in the plain receive the Abyssinian waters of the Hawash and its tributaries, in addition to the contributions of all the streams from Jebel Oobnoo and other col- lateral ranges — the abundance of fluid thus lost upon volcanic formation, so enriching the soil as to enable this district to produce wheat, juwarree, barley, Indian corn, pep- per, and tobacco, in quantities sufficient tor the supply of the entire coast. The Hawash may be conjectured to have experienced interruption in its course to the Bahr Assa.1 and Bay of Tajura, at the same period that volcanic agency divided the waters of the great Salt Lake from Goobut el Kharab. Miles around the wonted boundaries of each lagoon now become annually inundated during the spreading of the great freshes ; and as the floods, carried off by absorption and evap- oration, again recede, the soil is covered with a fertilizing sediment — a fat alluvial deposit, which, with little labor, yields an ample return. Even the lazy and listless Danakil, who neither sows nor reaps else- where, is here induced to turn agricultu- rist j but not a single acre is to be found 62 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. under the plough, from the sea even to the mountains of Abyssinia — a distance ex- ceeding three hundred and fifty miles. Pastoral as well as agricultural pursuits engage the population of Aussa ; but while the cultivating portion of the inhabitants are permanent residents on the soil, the shepherds are annually driven away by the gad-fly, which attacks the flocks from the setting-in of the rainy season until the ter- mination of the fast of Ramzan, when the waters have again subsided, and the herds- man, descending from the mountains, re- turns to his occupation in the valley. An extensive commercial intercourse is, more- over, carried on with Tajiira. Salt from the Bahr Assal, blue calico, which is in high demand for the caps universally worn by the married Bedouin females, zinc, pewter, and brass or copper wire, used both for personal ornament, and for the decoration of weapons, are bartered for the produce of the luxuriant soil — some few caravans crossing the Hawash, and pur- suing their journey along the western bank to Dowwe, on the frontier of the Wollo Galia, in order to purchase slaves ; or stri- king into the main road at Amadoo, and so prosecuting their way to Shoa for a similar purpose. Mudai'to tribes occupy the entire plain of Aussa, but they are now divided into five distinct nations. The Assa-himera are under the rule of Humferi, a descend- ant of the ancient house of Ajdahis, who preserves the empty title of sultan, and resides at the decayed capital. Eastward are the Isse-hiraba, governed by Das Ali, an independent chief, and the Galeyla, un- der Daamer Ibrahim ; south are the Dar, who own allegiance to Akil Digger My- argi ; and west are the ferocious Koorha, under the sway of Yoosuf Aboo Bekr, who, also with the title of akil, resides at Alta, and wages war indiscriminately on both Assa-himera and Debenik-Woema. South-westward of the valley of Aussa, are the independent Adai'el tribes Hurruk Bodaito, over whom presides Gobuz Elin- cha, a powerful chieftain, who has espoused Leni, daughter of Birru Lubo, the prince of Argobba, and through whose territories lies the high caravan route to Dowwe, with which the traffic is considerable. On the north, the Mudaito are bounded by the dis- tinct nation styled Hirto, under the rule of Yingool Ali — Mohammadans, deriving their origin from the Arab invaders of the seventh century, and speaking a language not very dissimilar from the Ada'iel, who claim the same descent. Aussa is still the abode of all the Ulee- mas, Aukal, and learned doctors, for whom the Mudaito have ever been renowned ; but the present government is singularly constituted. The aged Sultan Humferi, son of Yoosuf Ali ibn Ajdahis, has retained with his high-sounding title the mere shad- ow of authority, which is in truth vested in Mohammad Ali, the vicegerent of the Debenik-Woema, appoinred by general suffrage from Tajiira. Residing at Kulloo, and ruling with an iron hand, he admits of little interference ; and, in all cases where disputes between the " red " and " white " houses of the proprietors of the soil and their invaders, terminate fatally to the latter, takes two lives for one, accord- ing to the immemorial observance in blood feuds. Ameer Sulaam, the wuzir of the Mu- dai'to, is head of all the sages ; and he is aided in the administration of justice by Hurrur Hassan, Teeoh, and Berbera or "Pepper" Ali, the latter so styled from the volubility of his sarcastic tongue. This triumvirate of venerable sheikhs, whose wisdom and learning is reputed to be kum el bahr, " profound as the sea," is referred to on all occasions where knotty points are at issue, whether among the Ado-himera or Mudai'to ; and even the Sultan of Tajiira was, on a late occasion, held bound to abide by their arbitration, relative to the projected marriage of his son to a bride from another clan of the " white house ;" a measure which was resisted, and which he was desirous of en- forcing. Yet a transit duty of fifty per cent, is levied by Mohammad ibn Moham- mad upon all exports made by the Mudaito, whereas ten per cent, only is exacted from the numerous Danakil tribes. " A large Arab force from Zeyla," ob- served Ibrahim Shehem Abli, who was well versed in the chronicles of Aussa, " was induced to join the Debenik-Woema in their invasion of the predatory Mudai'to hordes ; and overtures of capitulation hav- ing been made by Yoosuf Ali ibn Ajdahis, they were thrown off their guard. During the night the Woema, who knew with what villains they had to deal, bivouacked upon the heights of Dugodlee and Hy Tun- koma, where they rested safely enough. But the blockheads of Arabs choosing to sleep in the plain, the garrison took advan- tage of their folly to make a goom; and so cleverly was it managed, that, by Allah ! they succeeded in drawing their creeses across the throats of all save one." Nothing intimidated by this reverse, and joined by fresh allies from the coast, the Woema were not long in renewing the THE PLAINS OF TAKOOSHA. 63 attack ; and the whole of the Adaiel tribes who rally under the standard of " the white house," making common cause, the Mu- dai'to sustained a murderous defeat, when their stronghold, which had maintained its integrity unimpaired for so many centuries, fell at last into the hands of their heredi- tary foe. A long term of years elapsed, but the hearts of the scions of the 4i red house" still rankled under this disaster ; and, bent upon retaliation, the assembled clans, de- signing to plunder the now-decayed sea- port whence their Arab invaders had been furnished, made a rapid inroad into the country of the Eesah Somauli. Unpre- pared, the tribe fled before the host in dis- may, but presently recovering from the panic created by the sudden burst of war, rallied in great numbers, fell furiously upon the foe, and left not one marauding Mudai'to alive to tell the issue of the dis- astrous day. The " great battle," as this signal rout is still termed, was about three years ago fought within sight of Zeyla, on the plains of Takoosha, now white with the skeletons of a tribe. " Brave men are these Mudai'to," con- tinued the old warrior, playing carelessly with the hilt of his creese, which was sel- dom suffered to repose quietly in his gir- dle ; " but they are not to be compared with us. Hamdu-lillahy ' Praise be unto the Lord,' I slew their sheikh with my own hand ; and here is the identical scratch that I received in the scuffle. As for the Eesah," he concluded, " with their childish bows and arrows, they are sad cowards. One Dankali spear is an over-match for fifty of their best marksmen in a fair fight ; and I have myself dealt single-handed with six, although the villains came like thieves in the dark." Ibrahim Shehem was requested to re- concile this character with the issue of the great battle just recounted, wherein the despised tribe had so signalized itself. " That," quoth he of Tajiira, " was a das- tardly surprise ; and Wullah, had 1 been the invader with a handful of Danakil spearmen, there would have been another tale to tell." Has Ali, late sheikh of the cultivating portion of the Aussa population, some years since made an attempt to restore the exclusive rule to the Muda'ito, and to this end headed a conspiracy sworn upon the Koran to plough the field no more until the head of the Woema vicegerent should be exalted upon a pole at the city gate, and his body have been cast out to the nyenas. He was however waylaid and assassinated by Ibrahim Shehem Abli, who received a wound in the cheek. The numerous scars which adorned the dimin- utive person of this hero proclaimed him to have made one in many an affray ; and, if his own account might be believed, all were honorably gained. Nevertheless the singular aversion that he displayed to pass- ing certain watering-places in broad day- light, and his skulking port at Amadoo more especially, had tended not a little to confirm the disparaging anecdote mali- ciously narrated by his compatriots, rela- tive to the mode in which some of these much-prized distinctions had been acquired. The veteran Ali Arab had sat in gloomy silence during the early part of the conver- sation, but his light wicker cap started to the apex of his bald crown as he rose in wrath at the last vaunting words of the son of the Debeni. " Heed not the empty boast of that braggart," he exclaimed, with boiling indignation, forgetting his wonted taciturnity — "Brave as the lion's whelp are the hardy children of Yemen, and but for the cowardly desertion of their false allies there would have been a different issue to the fell night at Aussa. Do the Woema to this hour not pay tribute to Zeyla in acknowledgment of the assistance rendered] The event was written in the sealed volume of Fate. The decree of the Almighty was fulfilled. But, lest you should have believed the disparaging state- ments of this vain-glorious scorner, I will even recount the misfortunes of a cam- paign fraught with sad disaster to my kindred." Uttering these words, he led the way to his inclosure, reared of bales of the most costly wares which had been committed to his tried integrity ; and there, seated upon the rich shawls of Cachemire, or upon the choicest manufactures of the British loom, the party, provided each with a tiny cup of most potent coffee, gave ear in silence to the old man's tale, which in the two en- suing chapters shall be presented in the form that would appear best calculated to afford a picture of warfare in the Desert. CHAPTER XXIII. ARAB MARCH OVER THE TEHAMA. All was bustle and confusion in the small sea-port town of Zeyla. Camels were screaming as the well-filled sacks were tied tightly upon the saddles. The idle portion of the population had assem- bled to admire the pride and pomp of war 64 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Women were running to and fro with more than usual briskness, to deliver some for- gotten package to a body of men who stood under arms in the market-place ; and crowds streamed to join the group through the narrow bazaar, which had been lit up for the occasion, whence arose a confused hum of higgling and barter, as each last want was supplied by the merciless Hin- doo trader, on the credit of a successful return from the foray. A motley diversity prevailed in the age, dress, arms, accoutrements, and bearing of the assembled party ; but the turban and the checked kilt, the frequency of the long, ornamented matchlock, and the thousand strange-fashioned leathern pouches and pockets, dangling from every part of the person, proclaimed the presence of a body of warriors of the Faithful. And more than sufficient for the sultry climate was the cumbrous attire of the foreign merce- naries. Every color of the rainbow had been appropriated to their full varied vest- ments. Red, and yellow, and green, sur- mounted the dark, elf-like locks of the soldiers of Yemen ; knives and long heavy swords glittered in their rich shawl waist- cloths ; and the national cloak of Arabia, clasped across the tawny breast, floated gayly over each stalwart frame. Numerous mules stood ready saddled in the busy square, and many were the long provident bags and water-skins strapped behind each high wooden cantle. The band had not been engaged to act as cav- alry, but Arab troops are somewhat self- willed as to their tactics and style of move- ment, and at no time relish interference in any of those little private arrangements which they can afford for their personal comfort. The gray eye and the grisly beard of the veteran from Hejaz, and the fierce glance, and the long raven hair of the inhabitant of Medina, were exhibited together under the light of a blazing fire ; and it might have been observed that the strongest cur- rent of female attention set toward the spot where the youth were collected, ham- mering the hard bullets down their rusty matchlocks. " God is great 1" ejaculated a gayly-be- decked stripling, as he added an extra pinch of powder, for good luck, to the hand- ful already poured into his long culverin. " Bring me a lion, that he may feel the hands of the mighty, and Inshalldh ! if the leader of the expedition be of my mind, we shall not return empty-handed to have our beards laughed at by these fat kafirs from Hinde. Better were it to quaff at once the waters of immortality. But alas ! Amru ! the star was little on the ascendant when, forsaking the pleasant terraces and the cypress-waisted damsels of Mocha, thy stupid head dreamt of receiving two piastres a day from the treasury of the sheriffe, or of being cooped up with infidels in a perfect Jehdnnam upon earth." This speech was received with consider- able applause, for the re'is amru was well liked by his comrades in arms. Jokes passed freely among the youth, who were all in high good-humor at being released from the dull stupidity of a hot garrison; and each talked gayly of his future deeds of prowess, although as yet nothing had transpired as to the nature or object of the enterprise. But the veterans were crowded together in a mass, and their scowling downcast looks betokened little satisfaction in the coming march. A one-eyed ancient, who had witnessed as many fights as the re- maining.locks upon his wrinkled head, was employed in grinding a notch from his long sweeping sword, while he ever and anon gave vent to his spleen and displeasure. " No good can ever come of intercourse with these unbelieving savages," growled the old man to a fellow grumbler. " The skulking sons of the Dtbeni have been in close conference with the ameer for the greater part of the day ; and the youth Osman is not the leader to conduct a party of the Faithful among the deserts and the hills of this parched land. Blood will flow from the veins of these hot-headed strip- lings, crimson as the cloth which flaunts above their head-gear. Ay, and the dream of the last night can be now easily inter- preted. Listen to me," he muttered in lower accents : " I dreamt of the pleasant lands of Saba, and saw the sparkling wa- ters flowing over the bright green turf. The tribe of my fathers had assembled to- gether, an 1 the ' hail, welcome, may your arrival be happy,' came soothingly to my wearied ear ; but an impassable gulf yawn- ed at my feet, and the cold touch of the dread Azra'il startled me from my slum- bers. Nevertheless if we be fated to per- ish by the hand of the savage, it shall never be said that old Kasim All was the man to oppose his destiny." In good sooth the authorities had been sued for assistance by their friends the I Woema ; and as immunities, and privi- j leges, and certain per centage upon all slave caravans, were the inducements art- fully held out by the sagacious tribe, the proffered alliance had been eagerly accept- ed. The Woema deputation departed at ALI ARAB'S TALE. 65 sunset, after the ratification of the treaty ; and a few of their scouts were alone left to serve as guides through a country hith- erto untraversed by any Arab inhabitant of Zeyla. Three-quarters of the entire garrison were ordered for immediate duty. Gun- powder, balls, and coffee, had been handed out during the afternoon, together with a promise of arrears of pay on return ; and as the moon raised her broad disk above the still expanse of the Indian Ocean, the party remained grouped as above related, awaiting in the market-place the arrival of their leader. The impatient Osman, accompanied by the ameer and all the holy men of the town, shortly relieved them from suspense. His scarlet abba floated over his shoulders, and the gold of his head-dress sparkled in the beams of the pale orb, as he placed him- self at the head of the party to receive the " Salaam Aleikum " of his officers. The young chief had lately arrived from the opposite coast to take the military com- mand, but his proud and reserved bearing had gained neither the respect nor the good- will of his inferiors. Stories were whis- pered about that an evil star presided over his destiny, and that the settled gloom on his swarthy brow was caused by the con- tinued tissue of ill-luck which had hitherto blasted his every aspiration after fame. His quick ear had caught the murmur- ings of the discontented. " Dread not events unknown," he exclaimed, as he cast a withering glance over the group. " Be not down-hearted, for the fountain of the water of life is involved in obscurity. De- file not the spring of hope with the dust of despondency, for, praise be to God ! the creator of the universe, if ye walk even into the dens of the lion or the pard, they will not tear 'you save on the destined day." Then raising his voice Osman shouted aloud, " jSeero," move on in the name of the Prophet. " May Allah be with you ! May Allah watch over you !" solemnly chanted the chief moola as he waved the holy book in the air. The troops poured through the gateway, and sweeping slowly, like a thick cloud, along the face of the plain, were soon lost in the darkness of the desert. There be always some ardent spirits to raise the drooping mass ; and in the com- mencement of a march, as in the beginning of life, even the most downhearted feel a spark of hope as to the happy result. But after the first burst of enthusiasm was ex- pended, and the troops were fairly launched into the lone waste, the loose discourse and the merry laugh gradually failed, and in sad and gloomy silence they trod on for hours, sinking in the deep hot sand, or stumbling among the black blocks of lava which were thickly strewed over this tract of fire. The ominous bird of night flitted from left to right and hooted mournfully from a bare tree, as the gallant train swept past the last watering-place in the Waddy of Takoosha ; and many a " wullaV was pour- ed forth, as the herds of antelope bounded along the same evil and portentous track, as if pursued by the exulting demon of destruction. " Man proposes but God disposes," muttered those whose secret misgivings were heightened by these prog- nostics : the heart of the bravest quailed under the accumulation of unlucky omens, and all felt for the moment, that they were doomed men. Little order prevailed along the motley line. Mounted on his mule and wrapped in his own dark thoughts, Osman led the van, and a group of light-limbed Woema who clustered round the chief, pointed out the direction of march. No vestige was there of a pathway, and the dark ravine and the lone hill were passed in weary suc- cession, as each camel, and mule, and man on foot, struggled along during many hours of the hot night. A few pools of standing water left by a providential shower of rain were at length selected as the first halting- place, and, worn out and dispirited, the sons of Yemen, piling their heavy fire-arms, sank to sleep upon the bare ground. The tract of country extending from the coast to Ramudele is a bare and joyless desert, where water is to be met with only at long intervals, where little food is to be procured either for man or beast, and where the heat is like the breath of the glass fur- nace. But Arabs are accustomed to the arid regions of their own stony land, and as they feed like famished wolves when food is to be obtained, they can, like those gaunt animals, endure the extremity of fasting. The morning sun roused the party to renovated strength ; and as the news spread through the camp that the rich town of Aussa was the object of the enterprise, and that a large force of the W&ema had assembled to cooperate in the attack, no bounds were set upon the extravagant bra- vadoes uttered. Amru, as he strutted along with his turban placed jauntily upon his head, declared that even the gardens of Mocha and their rose-scented houris might be improved by a man of taste, if provided with the requisite means ; while the grum- bling old Kasim and his compeers, cheering THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. up for the moment, commenced a calcula- tion as to the probable gain to be derived from sundry captives, with which on their return they had resolved to fill the market. But although a degree of hilarity had been thus restored throughout the host, the black cloud still hung over the brow of its leader. No friendly footing was establish- ed with his followers ; no word of encour- agement proceeded from his lips. Orders and arrangements were given in the cold, calm tone of desperation, and a feeling of coming evil shook each sturdy frame, as he strode in moody silence to his accustomed station in the line of march. For seven weary days did they manfully toil through the blank dreary desert, where Nature had spread wide her plains of bar- renness, and where the image of utter deso- lation was but seldom disturbed by the appearance either of man or of vegetation. The heat of the day caused the lips to peel. The poisonous wind dried the marrow in the bone ; and at rare intervals indeed, some tiny encampment of the wandering Bud- doo alone cheered the site of the stagnant pool. A few camels dotted the unbroken expanse of the forbidding plain, and here and there a withered acacia threw her thorny limbs wildly into the hot atmo- sphere. The camp of the Woema was pitched at Ramudele, and far on either hand as the eye could compass, stretched along Che low belt of bushes which mark the course of the river Chekaito. A con- fused mass of fragile mats, and animals, and human beings, lay huddled together. From the midst of the disorderly array arose a thick forest of broad-headed spears ; and as the men clustered in hundreds to greet the arrival of their allies, the ferocity •of their appearance elicited universal ap- plause. The indomitable spirit of savage independence shone in their dark lustrous eyes ; and their lank, but well-moulded "figures, were surmounted by the white ostrich-feather drooping gracefully over the matted hair, the token of bloody prow- ess in the fight. In barbarous profusion an ample enter- tainment stood ready prepared. Large messes of meat and dishes of melted ghee were smoking in every quarter of the camp ; and after the welcome had been received from every hand, Osman retired with the sheikhs of the tribe to their tem- porary domicile, leaving the Arab host to resign themselves to enjoyment, and to rest after their long and weary march over the frightful Tehama. CHAPTER XXIV. MASSACRE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED. Feasting and amusement wiled away the hours until the appointed day, when the necessary reinforcements having joined, the entire force moved hurriedly off to- ward the unsuspecting object of attack. On the third morning of their march the hills of Dugodlee were crossed, and the smiling valley of Aussa was seen peacefully stretched at the feet of the in- vaders. Nothing could exceed the beauty of this oasis in the desert, so strangely expanded between two gigantic moun- tains ; the crest of the one frowning black, broken, and abrupt, while the other rises in steep but gradual turfy acclivity to the very summit, whence rich indeed was the wide prospect displayed. Green fields extended far as the eye could see. Flocks quietly ranged among the grassy nooks, and four lakes, unruffled by a breeze, reflected back the Iris rays of the morning sun upon the broken sides of the wooded hills. Hemmed in by fan- tastic ranges, the river Ha wash threaded the upper portion of the long valley like a cord of silver, and rushing into the broad expanse of Lake Hilloo, at length found rest for its troubled waters in the deep, mysterious basin, from which no visible stream adds its tribute to the blue ocean. The city of Aussa was pleasantly sit- uated on the upper extremity of the lake, and its low, conical, thatched roofs were half concealed among the towering ver- dure of the shadowy trees. As the host crowned the opposite hill, herds of beasts, and crowds of human beings, streamed from every side through the stout hedge of thorns that encircled the wall, and the voice of the muezzin rising faintly from the distant mosque, summoned the inhab- itants to prayer in this most unlooked-for tribulation. Confident of success, and exulting in their own numbers, and in the potent fire- arms of five hundred bearded allies, the savage host rushed whooping down the hill, their spears erect, and their souls hungry for the prey. But no shout re- sponded from the silent town of the Mu- da'ito, and no weapon glittered in its defence. Already had the Woema form- ed in serried lines, and already were the eyes and the shields of the warriors agi- tated by those portentous revolutions which are the prelude to the fatal rush, when a portion of the thorn fence was quietly drawn aside, and a band of aged THE CAMP SURPRISED. 67 men stepped upon the intermediate plain. A green branch waved in their unarmed hands, and their venerable white beards flowed nearly to their girdles. The sages of Aussa, whose wisdom was " as the depths of the sea," and who engrossed all the learning and holiness of the land, were there congregated together. The preju- dice of the savage was aroused, and the presence of men acknowledged, to whom every dispute among the tribes had hither- to been referred, and whose decisions had been always most implicitly received. The cause of complaint, and the hope of plunder, were for the moment almost for- gotten, and every spear sank to the ground as sheikhs and akils advanced to the front to receive the message from the beleaguer- ed city. Assuming the posture of earnest en- tready, the elders of the Mudaito were not sparing of their oily words : " All ancient differences should be fully adjust- ed, and the Woema should depart to their own tents, loaded with the richest produce of Aussa as a free gift of its elders ; but the great conference could not be held until the morrow ; the chief, Yoosuf Ali, Was absent, and a swift messenger could scarcely reach him before nightfall. Would the Woema meanwhile destroy the seat of learning and of religion ? Would the son brandish the gory spear where their fathers were wont to fall prostrate in prayer ? If camels had been stolen, the thieves should be delivered over to punish- ment, and every point of dispute should be most satisfactorily arranged." The chiefs of the Woema withdrew in order to deliberate apart, and divers were the opinions given in the ensuing discus- sion. The fiery Arab urged an immediate attack, now that the enemy were unpre- pared and fully given into the hand of the spoiler ; but the words of mercy at length prevailed, and the terms having been ac- ceded to, the wily elders, as they took their departure, displayed features lighted with a grim smile of inward satisfaction. High raged the storm in the camp of the invading chiefs. Expressions of contempt were bandied back upon the term of cow- ard, with which Osman had taunted the Adaiel conclave. Swords and creeses were drawn, and stout adherents were not want- ing with spear and matchlock to support their respective leaders. The veteran sheikh nevertheless contrived to still the troubled waters. Commanding his clan to draw back, and be at rest, he succeeded in convincing the Arab that lie was not to be forgotten in the forthcoming division of the spoil. Finally the parties separated in sul- len mood — the Woema to ascend the hills of Hy Tunkoma, where they had resolved to rest among the rocky caverns, whereas the fearless sons of Arabia remained upon the open plain on which the angry dispute had taken place. Meanwhile the town was in a state of hot fermentation. The few warriors who were accidentally at home, inflamed by the speeches of their respected elders, prepared quietly for the most desperate resistance. Swift-footed messengers stole out ever and anon through cuts and passages in the hedge, with orders to call to the rescue every member of the tribe ; and the most fearful denunciations were prepared for any who should refuse aid in this the day of national distress. Onward over hill and dale sped the untiring scout. At his warn- ing voice the shepherd left his flock, and the hunter stayed his successful chase. Sheikhs and akils seized spear and shield, and with all disposable force obeyed the hasty summons. Every encampment join- ed its quota to the fast swelling host, now streaming toward the valley of the deep waters ; and long ere the moon raised her pale disk above the hills, full communica- tion had been held with the city, and every arrangement was thoroughly matured for the attack. Blinded by the feint of abject submis- sion, the doomed body of Arabs had en- camped upon the open plain. Little order or arrangement could be observed, and not a symptom was there of military vigilance. No watchful sentry paced his steady beat, nor had any disposition been attempted for safety or for defence. All had bivouacked on the spot where they happened to be standing, and after their appetites had been sufficiently appeased, the lazy partisans lay grouped together with their long pipes, talking over the pleasant hopes of the morrow, or uttering the scornful taunt on the coward folly of their infatuated allies. The song and the keen joke of their dis- tant country occupied the first hours of the evening, and then the greater portion sank to rest upon the green sward. But the slumbers of many were of a disturbed and fitful nature ; and at midnight old Kasim Ali, whose advice, though un- graciously given, was generally attended to, repaired to the light pall under which reposed his leader. Osman was still awake, and after listening to the words of the vet- eran, who predicted coming evil, the first orders were given. Guards having col- lected under arms, matches were lit, and some preparation attempted for defence. 63 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. But the warning voice had come too late. The Mudaito host, crouching warily upon the ground, had glided like serpents along the dark plain till they had gained the re- quisite distance for the onset; and as if starting from the very bowels of the earth, a countless array showed suddenly a brist- ling front, not one hundred yards from the encampment. Short was the time allowed to awaken the drowsy soldiery. A hurried exclama- tion from the chief to stand like men, and a feeble cry from his followers in reply, was succeeded by the rush of the savages. Forward they came, carrying their broad spears erect, while their black ferocious eyes gleamed at the thoughts of blood, like the fiery orbs of the basilisk. A vol- ley from the matchlocks only checked their progress for a moment ; and as the firing ceased, there arose to heaven a wild un- earthly yell, which was closely followed by the fierce shouts of men in contention, and by all the sounds of terror, confusion, and despair. No walls or inclosures were there in that naked plain, or the sons of Ishmael, who well understand their defence, might have fought on more equal terms ; but overwhelmed by masses of the reckless foe, and hemmed in on every side by ten times their own number, the struggle was but the effort of individual desperation. Dropping shots had continued for some time in all quarters of the straggling en- campment, and Mudaito spear still clashed heavily upon Arab scimitar, when the war- cry of the Woema rose pealing among the cliffs. As the tramp of their footsteps was heard descending to the plain, a short res- - pile was allowed. The assailants with- drew from the murderous onslaught, and the fainting hearts of the survivors again bounded with hopes of life. But transient indeed were their expectations of succor and assistance. The wary eye of the W6ema had scanned, even in that uncer- tain light, the overpowering masse? of the foe that crowded the plain ; and suddenly wheeling 1 round the shoulder of the hill, they disappeared like a wreath of the morning mist. The Muda'ito meanwhile, like hungry wolves, hemming in the devoted party, awaited only the dawn of day to complete its destruction. But the remnant of the Arabs who had escaped now first found leisure to close their ranks ; and, taking up a position at the foot of the isolated Jebel Gilrmah, they resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible. Osman, wound- ed and bleeding, was still alive ; himself, with Kasim Ali and about fifty men, being all that survived of the gallant five hun- dred who had marched from Zeyla. The excruciating pangs of thirst were added to the tortures of creese and spear-wound : and in this, their last extremity, the sol- emn prayer arose to the Prophet of the Faithful, as of men whose hours were numbered. As the day broke, Kasim volunteered to carry a message of capitulation to the sav- age army ; and reposing full confidence in the white cloth waving in the hand of the veteran, each anxious eye was strained in the direction of his footsteps. Received in moody silence by the Mutia'i'to band, a ferocious savage was about to drive a spear-blade through his unflinching breast, when the son of the sheikh bounded sud- denly to his side, and warding off the de- scending shaft, seized the hand of the old man, kissed it with every reverence, and addressed a few words to the tribe. In days gone by the youth Boorhan had been saved under the creese by the son of Ye- men, and gratitude, rarely found in the sav- age, now paid her outstanding debt. The veteran's overtures of surrender having been received, he turned again to- ward his comrades, but a fearful sight fell on his sickening gaze. Two large bodies of the enemy had, in the interim, stolen round the hill, and clustering upon the very edge, were already swarming unseen to the last attack. Vain were his frantic gestures to direct the attention of his doomed com- rades to the coming storm ; he was seized and pinioned in the iron grasp of a multi- tude, and the succeeding rush was as the burst of the overcharged thunder-cioud. And feeble was the defence made by men weary, and thirsty, and unprepared. With an appalling whoop, the triumphant savages soon joined the ranks of their sheikh, and not one turbaned head remain- ed visible above the wide plain. All had found a gory pillow in a far distant land. Creese and matchlock, mingled together, plentifully strewed the ground ; and clutch- ed in the cold hand of each grim warrior, lay the long Arab sword, dripping to the hilt in the blood of the assailant. The acacia still throws her scanty shade over the bones that whiten on the scene of I this conflict. Although of the same per- suasion as the invaders, the men of Aussa could neither forgive their most unprovok- ed attack, nor consign to a quiet resting- place the remains of the true believers. The severe loss they too had sustained, still keeps the wound festering, for well indeed in that fatal night had been upheld GANG OF HORSE STEALERS. 6fr the character of the sturdy children of Ye- men. Taken by surprise and at every dis- advantage, each had fought on fiercely to the last ; and although broken matchlocks and rent shields dangle in the mosques as trophies of their defeat, many a Mudaito mother long bewailed the loss of a beloved son, and many a bereaved widow mourned the absence of her liege lord, who return- ed not from the valley of the deep waters of Aussa. CHAPTER XXV. FIALTJ, A DEN OF THIEVES IN THE WOEMA TERRITORIES. BARURUDDA AND KILLUL- LOO. After a march of three miles on the 22nd, over a stony table-land thickly strew- ed with the never-ending basaltic boulders, the caravan entered the territory of the Danakil tribe Woema, under the uncle and father of Mohammad Ali. A desolate hol- low passed on the way, which appeared in the rainy season to form an extensive pond, was enlivened by four bee-hive-shaped wigwams, placed, as usual, on the site where large hot stones were most abun- dant, and tenanted by goatherds, whose numerous flocks were being driven forth to graze by the Bedouin females. Their supply of water is derived from a seques- tered pool, occupying a deep, narrow, pre- cipitous ravine, which abounds in the Hy- rax, and boasts of a few trees not dissimilar from the Casuarina. Bearing the eupho- nous title of Korandiidda, this gully wound at the foot of the high terrace selected for the encampment — another right drea- ry plain, covered with volcanic pebbles, among which trie dry yellow grass peeped out in scanty tufts. No traveller through the bleak barren country of the Ada'i'el, can fail to appreciate the simile of " the shadow of a rock in a weary land ;" for a tree is indeed a rare phenomenon — and when a few leafless branches do greet the eye, they are studi- ously shunned, upon the same principle that induces the savage to eschew the immedi- ate vicinity of water. A few straggling acacias occupied the valley of Fialoo, half a mile to the southward, which is the usual encamping ground, and here were large herds of cattle, eccentrically marked and brindled, and glorifying in superb horns raking gracefully from the brow. A fat ox was purchased without difficulty, together with a supply of fresh milk, which, if not improved by confinement in a gTeasy skin bag, proved nevertheless an extraordinary luxury. One of the retainers of Mohammad Ali was now dispatched to acquaint Ali Abi of the arrival of the kafilah. It had all along been promised that, after entering the ter- ritories of the old sheikh, every danger was to cease, but the goal now gained, the coun- try proved to be a perfect nest of hornets. The thieving propensities of the Galeyla Mudaito having been lately exercised upon the Woema, it had been resolved to inflict summary chastisement, and ragamuffins were collecting from all quarters, prepara- tory to a " goom." From morning till night the camp and tent were unceasingly thronged with scowling knaves, among whom were several of the Eesah — their heads decorated with white ostrich plumes in token of having recently slain an antag- onist in single combat, or more probably murdered some sleeping victim. Toward evening a gang of the Abli, whose chieftain is appropriately surnamed Jeroaa, or " the thief," made a desperate attempt to carry off the best horse, upon which they had strongly set their affec- tions ; but the rogues were fortunately ob- served by the lynx-eyed Kakoo, henchman to Mohammad Ali, just in time to admit of the animal being recovered. The war-cry caused all to fly to their arms ; blows were exchanged without any blood being spilled, although one of the Woema shields was per- forated by a well-launched spear ; and the ringleader of the horse-stealing gang, who had thus narrowly escaped a mortal feud, having been secured to a tree, was by his own tribe severely castigated on the spot. A dense cloud of dust rolling along from the north-eastward, closed the day. Re- volving within its own circumference, and advancing on a spiral axis, it burst in full force in the very centre of the camp. The tent fell on the first outpouring of its wrath, and the consistency being so dense as to render it impossible to keep the eyes open, the party were fain to take refuge beneath tarpaulins, and stretched upon the ground to listen with quick and difficult respiration, until the whirlwind had expended its vio- lence among chairs, tables, and bottles. A few drops of rain ushered in the night which was passed by a newly-entertained Bedouin guard in carousing upon the choice dates of the embassy, a bag of which had been unceremoniously put in requisition by the ras, " in order to keep the savages in good humor," or, in other words, to save them the trouble of stealing it ; and the musket announcing relief of sentries were discon- 70 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tinued by request of the same authority, lest the smell of gunpowder might have a prejudicial effect upon the voracious appe- tites of the savages. Before dawn the chief of the nomade tribe Hy Somauli arriving with a hungry and dissatisfied retinue, a halt was pro- claimed, to the end that they also might be fed, pacified, and propitiated. The poten- tate was duly introduced by Izhak as a most particular friend, who had journeyed a long way for the express purpose of making the acquaintance of his English charge ; and a deep sense of the honor conferred having been expressed, it was ascertained that the secondary object of the visit was to inquire by whose authority so formidable a party of foreigners were being smuggled through the country, and how it happened that they were suffered to build houses wheresoever they thought proper ? — this last allusion having reference to the tent, which had again been pitched, and was very sapiently conjectured to be a permanent edifice. The " Kafir Feringees " therefore con- tinued to be objects of undiminished curi- osity during the whole also of this sultry day ; a greasy disorderly rabble, which oc- cupied the tent from an early hour, being continually reinforced by parties weary of the debate held immediately outside, which lasted until the going down of the sun. Each new visitor, after staring sufficiently at the white faces, invariably exclaimed "Nubeeo," "Holy Prophet!" a mark of undisguised disapprobation, which was fur- ther elicited by every occurrence that did not exactly coincide with his nice ideas of propriety, such as eating with a fork, keep- ing the head cool under a hat instead of under a pound of sheeps'-tail fat, or blow- ing the nose with a handkerchief in lieu of with the fingers. Paws were nevertheless incessantly thrust in at every door, accom- panied by reiterations of the Dankali verb " to give," used in the imperative mood ; the never-ending din of " Ba, Ba," being uncoupled with any noun designative of the commodity required — a proof that he who demanded was a ready recipient for any spare article that might be forthcoming. A long and tedious palaver,in which voices occasionally ran extremely high, at length terminated in a general uprising of the sen- ators. Izhak was seen curling his scanty side-locks in token of victory. The chief had become satisfied of the temporary na- ture of the tenement inhabited by the *' Christian dogs," after one or two of the savages had thrust a spear-blade through the canvas ; and the malcontents having to a man been sufficiently crammed with dates, coffee, and tobacco, finally took their departure, chuckling at the success of the foray, and having ingeniously contrived to turn their time to account by stealing one of the mules. Many significant glances had been ex- changed over portions of the baggage that had unavoidably been exposed ; but a night of redoubled vigilance was cut short by a summons to relinquish sleep and bedding at two in the morning, and a march of six- teen miles over a vast alluvial flat, con- ducted past the Bedouin station of Ulwiilli to Barurudda, on the plain of Kellali. The road led along the base of the low range of Jebel Eesah, through abundance of coarse grass, concealing lava pieces and volcanic detritus, the prospect being bound- ed by distant blue mountains, towering to the peak of Kuffal Ali. A korhaan rose at intervals, wild and noisy as his chattering kindred in the south ; but few other signs of animated nature enlivened the long, sultry march. In the gray of the morning, a solitary Bedouin horseman ambled past with some message to the savages at Am- adoo, and from him was obtained the dis- agreeable intelligence, which subsequently proved too true, that not a drop of water existed over the whole wide plain within a day's journey ; and that the station beyond was thronged with tribes, collected with their flocks and herds from all the country round, at this, the only oasis. After a hot, dusty day, the sky was again overcast, and sufficient rain fell to render every one wet and uncomfortable, without filling the pools, or checking the dire per- secutions of a host of cattle-ticks, which covered every part of the ground. Absence of water led to another midnight march ; and the moon affording little light, the road was for some time lost, though event- ually recovered, by the sagacity of a fe- male slave of Mohammad Ali's, when all the lords of the creation were at fault. This damsel, who always led the foremost string of camels, was one of those frolicsome productions of nature, which the wanton dame pawns on the world in her most laughing moods; and the appearance oi her daughter could scarcely fail to elicit the mirth of the most sedate beholder. A small round bullet head, furnished with a well-greased mop, and a pair of most brill- iant eyes, formed the apex of a figure, which, in all other respects, was that of the concentrated Amazon, exhibiting a system of globes, both before and behind, agitated by a tremulous vibration, as the short fat legs imparted progressive motion. A blue kerchief, tied jauntily over the CONGREGATED TRIBES. 71 head — ponderous wooden ear-rings, fash- ioned on the model of Chub's largest lock — a necklace of white beads, and a greasy leathern apron slung about the unwieldy hips, without any remarkable regard to decency — set off the corpulent charms of the good-natured Hasseinee, the exhibition of whose eccentricities in Europe, must infallibly have insured a fortune to the showman. The road continued to skirt the low Eesah range, for several miles,* to the ter- mination of the plain, which becomes grad- ually shut in by rounded hills, inclosing a dell choked with low thorns, and tenanted by the galla-fiela,} a strange species of an- telope, having a long, raking neck, which imparted the appearance of a lama in min- iature. As the day broke, flocks and herds were observed advancing from every quar- ter toward a common focus ; and on gain- ing the brow of the last hill overhanging the halting-ground, a confused lowing of beeves and bleating of sheep, arose from the deep ravine below, while the mountain sides were streaked with numberless white lines of cattle and goats, descending to- ward the water. Arriving at the Wady Killulloo, a most busy scene presented itself. Owing to the general want of water elsewhere through- out the country, vast numbers of flocks and herds had assembled from far and wide ; and they were tended by picturesque mem- bers of all the principal tribes of Danakil, composing the Debenik-Woema, as well as from the Eesah, the Muda'i'to, and their subordinate subdivisions. Dogs lay bask- ing on the grassy bank beside their loung- ing masters ; women, screaming to the utmost of their shrill voices, filled up their water-skins with an ink-black fluid, stirred to the consistency of mire, and redolent of pollution ; thousands of sheep, oxen, and goats, assembled in dense masses in and around the dark, deep, pools, were under- going separation by their respective own- ers, before being driven to pasture ; and, with the long files that ascended and de- scended the mountain-side in every direc- tion, imparted the bustling appearance of a great cattle fair. The temporary mat huts of all these nomade visitors who boasted of habitations, were erected at a distance on the table- land, to the southwestward of this import- ant wady, which occupies a rugged rocky * The reader who may not be thoroughly satisfied with miles and furlongs, as embodied in this narrative, js referred to the Appendix, where they will be found detailed in a tabular form. t »'• e. camel-goat. chasm, opening upon the Kellali plain, and, receiving the drainage of ail the southern portion of the Oobnoo range, disembogues during the rainy season into the lake at Aussa. Even during this, the hottest por- tion of the year, when the entire country elsewhere is dry, its rocky pools, embedded in soft limestone, tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and abounding in rushes and crocodiles, afford an inexhaustible supply, without which the flocks and herds of the entire arid districts by which it is sur- rounded, could not exist. To it the horses and mules of the em- bassy were indebted for a new lease of life, short though it proved to many. Two of the former and ■ eleven of the latter, had already been left to the hyenas, in addi- tion to the animal feloniously abstracted by the Hy Somauli, of the recovery of which Mohammad Ali affected to be san- guine. But although the pleasure of an- other meeting with the robber chief, where- upon he rested his delusive hopes, was shortly realized, and brought with it a train of concomitant inconvenience, no mule was ever restored. Not one of these petty Adaiel tribes are subject to that abject des- potism which controls the turbulent spirits of the more powerful African nations, and, bad as absolute power must ever be ac- knowledged, often tends to their ultimate improvement. The influence of a chief- tain is here little more than nominal. All affairs are decided in council by a majority of voices ; and, were it not for the fact, that, save during the existence of a com- mon danger, no component member of his clan works for other than individual ad- vantage, the wild and lawless community over whom he affects to preside, might in all respects be appropriately designated a republic. CHAPTER XXVI. OMINOUS DEBATES AND INTOLERABLE DE- LAYS AT THE HALF-WAY STAGE. The second knot in the string of the tedious journey had been unloosed by ar- rival at Killulloo, which is considered exactly half way from the sea-coast to the frontier of Abyssinia. But although the worst portion of the road was now behind, the embassy was destined to waste many days of existence in this vile spot, amid annoying debates and discussions, most trying to the patience, which threatened to terminate so unpleasantly, as well nigh to result in the abandonment of the baggage, 72 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. as affording the only prospect left of ever reaching the destination. From the very first moment of arrival, Izhak, whose sole object ever appeared to be to render himself disagreeable, devoted his talents and energies to the establish- ment of a misunderstanding, upon the fri- volous grounds of Mohammad Ali having been suffered to distribute a small quantity of tobacco, in order to get rid of some un- pleasant visitors. " Who gave that man tobacco?" he captiously vociferated, boun- cing into the tent as soon as it had been pitched; "this is a piece of interference with my prerogatives, as ras el kafilah, which cannot be borne." And the expla- nation afforded not proving at all to his satisfaction, he roundly declared his deter- mination of resenting the insult by throw- ing up the charge, and returning with all his paid retainers to Tajura. Mohammad Ali being now in the heart of his own country, and having rendered himself extremely useful on the road, while his venerable rival had been idle, seemed resolved to assert his claim to a share in the conduct of the caravan. Iz- hak as unflinchingly maintained his reso- lution, as brother to the Sultan of Tajura — a point whereon he greatly piqued him- self — to hold the reins exclusively in his own hands, or to decamp with the camels ; and the embassy, avowing themselves to be merely travellers through the country, desirous of conciliating all parties, and of interfering with none, maintained the strictest neutrality, and declined mixing at all in the dispute. It was already dusk when a visit was received from the three principal persons of the countless multitudes assembled. These were Ibrahim ibn Hameido, akil of the Hy Somauli, whose dominion ex- tends from Ramudele to Suggagedan ; and the uncle and father of Mahammad Ali — to wit, Wayess ibn Hagaio, who divides with his brother Hagaio Lad, the govern- ment of the Dermela, the Woema, the Rookhba, and the Midgan, collectively ex- tending from Suggagedan to Waramilli — and Hajji Ali Mohammad, a hoary patri- arch of most venerable appearance, com- monly styled Ali Abi. As tokens of good- will they brought oxen, sheep, and bags of sour milk ; but, owing to an obvious disinclination on the part of Izhak and his sulky colleagues to promote conversation, the interview was extremely stiff; and dates, coffee, and snuff having been duly handed round, the illustrious visitors, sig- nifying an intention of discussing certain topics of importance which had yet to be adjusted, abruptly departed after the pol- ished fashion of the country, without going through the ceremony of taking leave of their entertainers. A vast concourse of armed natives, members of all the various tribes assem- bled, had in the meantime convened imme- diately on the outskirts of the camp, where they continued during the whole night in a violent altercation, which periodical sup- plies of dates and tobacco proved quite in- adequate to allay. The discussion was shared by Izhak and by Mohammad Ali, with their respective partisans and re- tainers, and it continued during the whole of the next day ; meanwhile the tent being perpetually thronged with thieves and idlers, who purloined whatever fell in their way, and contrived frequent broils among themselves, which led to the drawing of creeses in the very centre of the encamp- ment. Throughout the whole of the ensuing night, and part of the day following, the wrangling among the tribes continued with little abatement or intermission, the litigants occasionally br:aking into small parties, to hold private kaldms, and after much mysterious whispering, again re- suming their seats in the general assem- bly. The question of precedence between the elders, already adverted to, and the propriety of suffering so large a party of armed Franks to proceed into Abyssinia, formed the principal subjects of discussion ; and the prevailing opinion on the latter question was, that all ought to be com- pelled to return, if not to be put to death, as unbelievers whose presence boded evil. But the opportunity was also taken of arbitrating old feuds and squabbles. Elopements were investigated and ar- ranged, and all disputes and quarrels of a private nature fully dilated upon and di- gested. Hundreds of ruffians thus sat from the rising up of the sun to the going down of the same, and throughout the live- long night, formed in a wide circle ; the chiefs and men of consequence in the centre, and the venerable Ali Abi, with thin floating snow-white locks, and highly ornamented weapons, seated as president of the council. During the lengthy dis- cussion of such a case, every spear stood erect in the hand of the warrior ; and on the decision being promulgated, the bright blades were lowered with one accord, a portion of the Koran was repeated, and at the termination of every verse, a general hum succeeding, the concurrence of all parties was chanted in a deep stern Ameen! Killulloo being the great mart between THE CONCLAVE— SLAVE CARAVAN. 73 the Bedouin tribes and the passing cara- vans, where the produce of their flocks is bartered for blue calico and other imports in demand, the news of the arrival of so large a party caused an inpouring from every quarter, and each day presented at the rendezvous some new group of exact- ing chiefs to be propitiated, with a fresh train of thieving followers to be fed and kept in good humor. Every greasy scoun- drel possessed a vote in the congress, to- gether with the inclination to render himself obnoxious, and the ability to add his humble mite toward the irksome de- tention ; and it therefore became requi- site to court popularity, and to canvass public favor as sedulously as at a general ejection for a seat in parliament. Ever and anon, a great noise and clamor, and the rushing, spear in hand, of all the idlers to one point, proclaimed a gentle passage of arms among the savages, of which, nine times out of ten, a woman was the subject — some gay Lothario having been recognized among the crowd by an injured husband. But no sooner had the cold steel flashed from the scabbard, than the bullies were secured by the bystanders, and being perfectly aufait at the business, they were easily restrained from doing each other any grievous bodily harm. In one scuffle indeed, a hot-headed fool who had with singular want of discretion en- gaged in a quarrel at too great a distance from his companions, got his thick wig somewhat unpleasantly shaved to the skull a hand's breadth or more — a fortunate oc- currence indeed, as it turned out, since the sight of blood had the instantaneous effect of closing the senatorial proceedings of the great conclave, which had been all night sitting in deliberation, so that its members were yawning in a state of con- siderable exhaustion and owlish stupefac- tion. Tolo, the quarrelsome little warrior who thus suddenly adjourned the sessions, lost three of his front teeth by the hands of the husband whom he had injured in more ways than one — but he retained pos- session of the inconstant lady, and pub- licly pledged himself, that on his way back from Habesh, he would take measures which should set the matter at rest for ever. The arrival from Shoa of a slave caravan in charge of the son of Abdool Rahman Sowahil, kazi of Tajura, added still fur- ther to the assembly in the persons of sev- eral hundred unfortunate children of all ages, who sought shelter from the fierce rays of the sun beneath the scanty trees which dotted the rugged basaltic valley of Killulloo, or lay huddled together beneath the hot shadow of an impending columnar rock. Each carried a small gourd as a water flagon, and, although generally in good spirits, some idea of the sufferings in store for these hapless beings could be formed by those who had just achieved the lower portion of the perilous and formida- ble road. " Have all my children arrived in safe- ty ?" inquired a corpulent old slave mer- chant who brought up the rear, tenderly accosting his mistress elect, and chucking her playfully under the chin, as she flew to hold the bridle of his mule ; " are all my children well ?" " Humdu-lillah" was the reply of the coy damsel, a really beau- tiful Christian from Gurague, with long raven tresses, and a very pensive expres- sion, who had been compelled to profess Islamism. Honored with the caresses of her fat and bigoted purchaser, the poor girl had been made responsible for a drove con- sisting of three-score little sister slaves, all distinguished like herself by a tassel of green beads in the braided hair, and who were now about to be counted by their "father." The son of the kazi having brought let- ters from Abyssinia, was shortly introduced by Hajji Kasim, own cousin to Izhak, and by far the most reasonable of the Tajura party. Being in the course of conversa- tion, quietly interrogated touching the cause of the ras el kafilah's continued irri- tation, he turned at once to his companion, and solemnly adjured him by the beard of ihe Prophet to answer conscientiously the following questions. " A head is a head, is it not, all the world over ?" " Of course," responded the descendant of the chief jus- tice, " there can be no disputing that fact" 11 A tail, too, is a tail, Or I am much mis- taken," continued the logician, pursuing his thesis, — and this axiom was also un- hesitatingly admitted as beyond all contro- versy. " Well, then," resumed Kasim, whose intellects had been sharpened by a pilgrimage to the shrine at Medina ; " no kafilah can possess two heads ; and so long as Ali Mohammad, who is in fact the tail, continues these underhand attempts to usurp the authority vested in the brother of the Sultan of Tajura, our acknowledged head, matters can never go on smoothly." The old man was quietly reminded that the raw tobacco, which had given rise to so much heart-burning, bickering, and dis- pute, was the sole property of the British party, and that, with every deference to Izhak's supreme authority, some control might with propriety be conceded to the 74 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. owners over their own wares ; but that as to any interference in the quarrel for the ras el kafilahship, the thing was clearly impossible — the business having already been fully discussed and arranged with due Danakil patience, by the sultan, in some twenty tedious conferences with the camel- owners and chiefs of Tajura. Izhak, who had been listening to this conversation with a dark scowl upon his brow, now entered as if by accident, twirling his scanty locks, and beaming with smiles ; proof of his re- storation to good humor being immediately afforded in the extension of his right hand, not to perform the usual ceremony of re- conciliation, but in view to the palm being filled with a sufficiency of Dr. Ruddiman's Irish blackguard, to admit of indulgence in his favorite recreation. Hopes were now reasonably entertained of an amicable adjustment, the real cause of dispute having meanwhile been traced to a jealousy respecting the reward which it was conjectured the leader of the cara- van would receive at the hands of his majesty of Shoa. Mohammad Ali had already been privately satisfied upon this point; and Izhak, in order to strengthen his own claim, falsely asserted himself to have received by the kazi's son a letter from Sahela Selassie, appointing the sul- tan of Tajura to the charge of all his Eu- ropean friends who might desire to visit Southern Abyssinia. But the congress still sat as usual. The dispute arranged to-night was renewed at morning's dawn, as though it had never formed the subject of deliberation ; and at a period when the near approach of rain in the higher regions, and the consequent flooding of the Ha- wash, rendered every hour one of the ut- most importance, not the slightest prospect of departure could be discovered, beyond the oft-repeated assurance, as often fol- lowed by disappointment- 1 —" Bad bokra In- shallah" " If it please God, the day after to-morrow." CHAPTER XXVII. PERSECUTIONS OF THE GATHERED CLANS. PARTING INTERVIEW WITH THE AVARI- CIOUS CHIEFTAINS. Throughout this period of irksome de- tention, the thermometer stood daily at 112°, and the temperature of the small tent, already sufficiently oppressive, was rendered doubly unbearable by the unceas- ing obtrusions of the wild, dirty, unman- nerly rabble who filled the ravine. Impe- riously demanding, not suing for snuff, beads, and tobacco, with paper whereon to write charms and spells for defence against evil spirits, swarms forced in their greasy persons from the first dawn of day to the mounting of the guard at night. Treating the pale-faced proprietors with the most marked insult and contumely, they spat upon the beds, excluded both air and light, and tainted the already close atmosphere with every abominable smell. Not one of the greasy crowd could be persuaded that the " cloth house," as the tent was denom- inated, had not been each day-reerected solely for his individual use and accommo- dation. Many attempted with their creeses to curtail the much coveted blue calico with which it was lined, and one lank ruf- fian, who was detected leisurely searching for a peg whereon to hang the skin and entrails of a newly killed he-goat, wrought himself into a positive fury on being civil- ly apprised that he must look for shambles elsewhere. Neither on the part of those composing the caravan was much privacy allowed during the sultry day, when seclusion was so highly desirable. Here, as throughout the march, offensive camel-drivers obtruded themselves without any regard either to time or season ; occupying the chairs, com- posing themselves to sleep in groups upon the beds or on the table ; and, while they picked their ears and teeth with the pens, or employed the knives in the pleasing operation of paring their filthy talons, spitting without remorse wheresoever they listed. Hating and despising a Frank with all the zeal of the bigot, they yet insisted upon shaking hands, on each intrusion, with the most scrupulous attention to Danakil etiquette, and with unhesitating alacrity devoured the biscuits and swal- lowed the coflee of the " Christian dogs." The despotic arrangements enforced by the ras el kafilah, although doubtless ma- terially conducive to his own personal convenience, and to that of his unaccom- modating followers, were, moreover, far from enhancing the comfort of the embas- sy. Boxes and bales, after having been unceremoniously dashed upon the ground, in utter disregard of remonstrance or of the fragile nature of the contents, had on this occasion, as on the termination of each march, been piled in a circle, each compo- nent heap consisting of three sides of a square, which, with the addition of a few mats thrown over the top, formed a habita- tion fully as commodious as a Dankali is ever accustomed to. Any attempt to dis- turb the economy of these tenements, by NIMRODS OF THE DESERT. 75 referring to the boxes employed in their construction, being regarded as an act of premeditated injury and insult, was stoutly resisted ; and as no portion of the baggage once removed to the tent, was ever received again without a battle, the materials of comfort or occupation were very rarely obtainable. In the selection of his load at Taj ura, every self-willed driver had suited his individual inclination, and as no persuasion could now induce him to de- posit any portion in a spot where it might be under surveillance, the provisions, placed beyond the reach of their owners, but accessible to every hungry knave, were perpetually pilfered and purloined. Universal somnolency on the part of the hired guard, had rendered two European sentries and an officer of the watch indis- pensable throughout the journey ; and in such a nest of robbers as Killulioo, the precaution was more than ever requi- site. In a fine climate, with a manly foe in front, a night watch is far from being a disagreeable duty. Here it was beyond all things annoying. Pacing up and down over the same retrodden ground, to keep the heavy eyelids on the stretch, in order to prevent the prowling Bedouin from pil- fering a bag of dates, or to detect the lurk- ing assassin, who in the dark creeps like a wild beast to perpetrate his dastardly deed, is but a scrry business ; and it was render- ed more particularly hateful from the rank offensive steam, which arose thick and hot from the small circle in which the beds were spread. Stifling exudations from the fetid mouths of one hundred and seventy camels that fed on the most disgusting rubbish, filled the suffocating atmosphere, which was impregnated with atoms still more vile from the rancid sheep's-tail fat, wherewith every Dankali is so liberally besmeared. Among the motley races congregated at this crowded watering-place, were the endless tribes of Adaiel, with broad-headed spear and shield of high antiquity — the coast of Somauli, armed with light lance and diminutive wrinkled buckler, scarcely larger than a biscuit — and his much dread- ed Eesah brother, carrying a long stout bow of the ancient form, with the double bend, and a quiver of poisoned arrows slung by a lion's tail. These latter were by far the most conspicuous, as well as the most agreeable figures. Their togas, although not less filthy than those of their neigh- bors, were thrown more gracefully over the brawny shoulder ; their picturesque wea- pons were borne with an ease that habit can the white trophy floated over their raven locks in token of bloody deeds, nearly all boasted of laughing, intelligent, and far from unpleasing countenances — a delight- ful relief at all events from the scowling downcast look of the exacting, perverse, and impracticable Danakil. The Woema, deeming unlawful the use of the bow in their own persons, maintain upward of one hundred Somauli archers, originally prisoners of war, who, although naturalized among their conquerors, retain their own language, and never intermarry. The hunting portion of the Eesah tribe, who are designated " Bone," usually carry a rude bamboo flute, the wild plaintive ca- dence of which is believed to charm the ostrich. Their hair, with the aid of suet, is often dressed in the figure of the " pud- ding" worn by children during their first lessons in the art of walking ; and deeply graven on the forehead of each are to be seen the masonic square and compasses. Universally skilled in woodcraft, the fe- rocious subjects of ibn Fara may be styled a nation of hunters, many being proprie- tors of trained ostriches, which graze du- ring the day with the flocks in the open plain, and have their legs hobbled at night, to preclude wandering. These gigantic birds are employed with great success in stalking wild animals, a trained donkey being also in constant use — lashed below the belly of which, the archer is carried among the unsuspecting herd, when his arrows, poisoned with the milk of the eu- phorbia antiquorum, deal death on every side. It is to the skill of these wild Nimrods that the Danakil are chiefly indebted for their shields, which are manufactured of the thick hide of the oryx, here styled the baeza. Two bucklers of a foot or eighteen inches in diameter, fetching each four tobes of blue calico, value two dollars, are ob- tained from the animal's fore hand; and from the hind quarters are cut others of smaller dimensions, such as are in use among the pastoral Somauli. Ostrich fea- thers are also principally obtained from the Eesah : the unsullied plumes, when strip- ped from the fleet-footed bird, being depos- ited for the convenience of carriage, in portions of the gullet cut to the proper length. The process pursued by these children of the desert in the preparation of smaller fowls for the table, if not strictly in accordance with the directions of Dr. Kitchner, can, at all events, claim ingenu- ity. From some superstitious motive, the feet are chopped off with the creese, and alone impart; and, notwithstanding that I the carcase, undivested of the entrails, hav- 6* 76 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ing been incased in wet clay, is thrust into a hot fire ; on removal whence the feathers are left adhering to the paste, and in culi- nary phraseology, " the bird is done." Crowds of Bedouin shepherdesses, and females belonging to all the various nomade tribes, were likewise assembled in the Kil- lulloo ravine, and the cry of " wiirkul, wiirkul!" "paper, paper !" was incessant on the part of the softer sex, who, with a licence unknown and a freedom unenjoyed by the daughters of Eve in other Moham- madan countries, were unremitting in their attendance and flirtations, without exciting the jealousy of their lords. From the lips of these damsels, " Mahisse, Mahisstni!" " JWanina tiniV " Good morrow !" "How do you do ?" came not disagreeably ; and trinkets such as they loved, being civilly solicited, instead of imperiously demanded, the applicants were rarely unsuccessful. Among those who boasted of the most feminine and attractive appearance, were the fair partner and sister of Mohammad Ali — their wedded and single state being as usual distinguishable, from the coif of blue calico which marks the wife, and by the long, uncovered, plaited locks of the maid. Assembling with many of the frail sisterhood at the doors of the tent, where numbers were usually lounging in careless attitudes, they one day demanded that the palm of beauty might be awarded. Un- willing to throw the apple of discord, the mirror was placed in their hands, that the coquettes might judge for themselves ; and after each in succession had started invol- untarily at the sight of her own greasy charms, and had defended the individual features whereof she was mistress, to the utmost of her eloquence and ability, the verdict was finally found in favor of the virgin daughter of the venerable old sheikh. Although the majority of the slaves im- ported with the caravan from Abyssinia, were of tender years, and many of them extremely pretty, they did not excite that interest which might have been anticipated. Children accustomed to sorry fare and to harsh treatment in their own country, they had very readily adapted themselves to the will of their new masters, whose obvious interest it was to keep them £at and in good spirits. With few exceptions, all were merry and light-hearted. Recovered from the fatigues of the long march, there was nothing but dancing, singing, and romp- ing ; and although many wore an air of melancholy, which forms a national char- acteristic, the little victims to a traffic so opposed to every principle of humanity, might rather have been conjectured to be proceeding on a party of pleasure, than bending their steps for ever from their na- tive land. A very limited number of Shankelas and a few natives of Zingero excepted, the whole consisted of Christians and heathens from Gurague, whence are obtained the " red Ethiopians " so much prized in Ara- bia. Kidnapping has consequently been there carried to an extent so frightful, as to impart the name of the unhappy prov- ince as a designation for slaves generally. Nearly all of both sexes, however, had al- ready become passive converts to the Mo- hammadan faith, and under the encoura- ging eye of the bigoted drivers, oaths by the false prophet resounded through the camp. Nine-tenths were females, varying in age from six to thirteen years, and all were clad alike in dirty cotton smocks of Abyssinian manufacture, adorned in some instances with cuffs of blue calico. Their long, dark tresses, elaborately greased, were plaited into thin cords, with tassels at the extremity, and interwoven about the head with a band of colored thread, to which was suspended a distinguishing cluster of cowry shells. Bead necklaces, pewter ear-rings, bracelets, and anklets, decorated the persons of the prettiest ; and these ornaments, forming the stock in hand of the trader, are invariably resumed on each bargain effected, in order to be trans- ferred to some victim hereafter to be pur- chased. Each 6lave was provided with a cruse of water, and had walked the entire dis- tance accomplished from the heart of Af- rica, with an endurance that, in children especially of such tender years, was truly surprising. A very few only, who had be- come weary or foot-sore, had been mount- ed on mules or camels, or provided with ox-hide sandals, which in some measure protected their tender feet against tl>e sharp lava boulders. The males, chiefly boys, had been intrusted with the charge of camels, and required no compulsion to render themselves useful ; and of the fe- males, some, who boasted personal charms, occupied the position of temporary mis- tresses. Four large handfuls of parched grain, comprising a mixture of wheat, maize, millet, and gram, formed the daily food of each ; and under the charge of the most intelligent, the respective droves slept huddled together on mats spread upon the ground. Some surly old drivers or wanton youths there were, who appeared to prefer the application of the wnip to the more gentle persuasion of words ; but in the tri- A PROMISING ASSASSIN. 7* fling punishment inflicted, there was no- thing to remind the spectator of the horrors of slavery as witnessed in the western world. Few caravans ever traverse the deadly Adel plains without losing some slaves by the sultriness of the climate, or by the wanton spear of the adjacent hordes. Three of the fat merchant's children had been murdered shortly after leaving Abys- sinia ; and at his instigation, a foray was now concerting among the united warriors of the two caravans, having for its object the destruction of the neighboring Wur- boro Galla, whose families were to be swept into captivity. In this unprovoked slave-hunt, the embassy were strongly urged to take part ; but positively refusing the aid of British muskets in furtherance of any such object, the project was finally abandoned, more especially when a huge, brawny Shankela, the property of the ka- zi's son, was one morning discovered to have effected his escape during the night, doubtless with the design of carrying to the unsuspecting tribe a timely intimation of the gathering storm. Ominous kaldms, meanwhile, went on as usual, and fresh reinforcements arrived to take share therein. Villains of every degree continued to slide in as if hung upon wires, to stand cross-legged within the door of the tent until their curiosity was satisfied, and then to assume a seat in the congress. Hajji Abdallah and Elmi, the nephews of Ali Shermarki, listening by turns, brought hourly reports of the progress making toward final adjustment, and " Bokra, Inshdllah!" — "To-morrow, God willing !" — the now undeviating reply to every interrogatory relative to departure, had become a perfect by-word in every mouth. At length, on the 28th, it was pompously announced by the ras el ka.fi- lah, that every point at issue had, bond Jide, been satisfactorily arranged— that the water-skins were to be filled in the even- ing, before the flocks and herds should re- turn from pasture to trouble the pools — and that the journey was positively to be resumed betimes on the morrow. Upon this welcome assurance the three potent chieftains already named were again received, though with closed doors at their own request, in order that each might be invested with a turban and an honorary mantle of scarlet broadcloth, as rewards of their villainy. A most difficult point of etiquette had now to be overcome. The akil of the Hy Somauli, whose liege sub- jects had abstracted the mule from Fialoo, was the bosom friend and partisan of Izhak, while the illustrious personages who eat in regal dignity on either side were near and dear relatives of Mohammad Ali ; and the rivals respectively watching with jealous eye every act that could be con- strued into favor or partiality, would infal- libly have fired at any preference shown in the presentation of the enviable distinc- tions from the British government. The presents were therefore placed on a table immediately opposite to the respective parties, and thence simultaneously launch- ed with the same arm into the laps of the confronted recipients ; when each bundle, even to the envelope, being found the ex- act counterpart of the others, no grounds for jealousy or heart-burning could be de- vised. Misfortune had, during this interim, overtaken the " sahib el bayzah," the imp whose acquaintance was formed in the harbor of Tajura. Detected in the mis- chievous dissemination of evil tales re- specting his clansmen, and in circulating others of an equally discreditable tenden- cy, purely the fruit of his own fertile in- vention, affecting the throng of Killulloo, he had been taken to task by Abroo ibn Aboo Bekr, upon whom he drew his creese without further ado. The blood- thirsty little savage, who had not number- ed his fourteenth year, being seized, was tied to a tree, and most severely chastised. His passionate cries and shrieks under the lash had reached the tent during the inter- view now happily terminated, and no sooner was he taken down than he came blubbering to lodge his complaint. No satisfactory reply being elicited, the preco- cious youth unsheathed his knife, with which he viciously went through the form of disembowelling a prostrate foe. His feelings thus relieved, he dried his eyes, and, with a significant toss of the head, remarked as he walked away, " 'T is of no consequence, ' maphishj no importance whatever ; but by the grace of God I shall cut the throat of that cousin of mine, be- fore I am many days older !' CHAPTER XXVIII. RENEWAL OF DEBATES BY IBRAHIM SHE- HEM ABLI, SURNAMED " THE DEVIL.'* FINAL ESCAPE TO WARAMILLI. Affairs nevertheless began now to as- sume a more desperate appearance than ever. The night of this day of good 78 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tidings setting in with a storm of dust, followed by a heavy fall of rain, a party of Bedouins scoured unperceived through the camp, and in spite of every precaution swept off many articles of trifling value. Among the booty was a tub of sugar- candy, which, on the hue and cry being raised, the rogues were fain to abandon, together with the bedding of one of the escort. An incessant bombardment of large stones was kept up during the whole night from the thick underwood in the vicinity, directed as well against the sen- tries on duty, who paced the same weary ground for the ten thousandth time, as against the sleepers, one of whom, having emerged for a moment from the tarpaulin which the rain had rendered indispensable, received a severe contusion. Mohammad Ali, in a state of evident alarm, came as soon as the shower had abated, to say that there existed no pros- pect of the march being resumed in ac- cordance with the solemn promise of the ras el kafilah; and that feeling longer unable to answer for the lives of the party among such a congregation of lawless ruffians, he was desirous of conducting to Shoa on horseback all who felt so disposed, leaving the heavy baggage to be secured by his father, as far as circumstances would admit. Should matters unfortunately reach the decided crisis which there seem- ed every reason to apprehend, the son of Ali Abi was clearly the staff whereon to rely, his intercourse with Europeans hav- ing rendered his manners more frank and ingenuous than those of his selfish and shuffling rivals ; but although kaldms and altercations had again commenced, a sense of duty for the present precluded the adoption of his project. Morning of the 29th dawned upon no preparations for departure, and a fresh source of detention was indeed found to have arisen from a new claim for prece- dence put in by Ibrahim Shehem, the liti- gious member of the tribe of Abli, which ranks in the Danakil nation next to that of Adali, to which the brother of the reigning sultan belongs. Another tedious day of insult and debate ensued ; but the question was at length disposed of by the congress, who decided the fiery little warrior to hold place second to Izhak in the conduct of the kafilah, to the exclusion of Mohammad Ali, through whose tribe the party were now to pass. Again it was announced with due form- ality that all matters at issue were peace- ably and satisfactorily arranged, and seve- ral bales of blue calico, with quantities of snufT, tobacco and dates, having been dis- tributed among the weary disputants, they were finally induced to disperse, each car- rying his tobe folded in triangular form, and stuck, as if in triumph of his plunder, like a placard, at the end of a slit stick. Ibra- him ibn Hameido, akil of the Hy Somaull, left, at his departure, a clump of twenty bold spearmen to escort the embassy to the Hawash ; and after shaking hands with each of the European party, to the bene- diction " Fee amdn illah" bade the whole " Tarik is suldma" God speed upon the road. Ibrahim Shehem Abli, appropriately sur- named by his compatriots " Shaytan," or " The Evil One," carried a great soul un- der a very diminutive person ; and being a perfect Roostum in his own estimation, was one of those who honored the humble tent of the embassy with a much larger share of his presence than could have been desired. No sooner was it pitched than the. consequential little man strutted in as if by previous invitation, and, with an air that left no doubt as to the side on which he considered the obligation to lay, spread his mat in the least convenient po- sition that could have been selected to the lawful proprietors of the interior. By vir- tue of a claim which it had heretofore been difficult to understand, he considered him- self entitled to the receipt of rations in ad- dition to the handsome pecuniary remune- ration extorted at Taj ura, and to keep him out of mischief, he had daily obtained, in common with the ras el kafilah, two large handfuls of rice. Elated by his recent advancement, he this evening, after sleeping some hours on the table, suddenly bounced upon his legs, and assuming an attitude of mortal defi- ance, which his contemptible presence ren- dered truly diverting, exclaimed with the most exaggerated want of courtesy, " You Franks do n't know who I am, or you would treat me with more respect. I am Ibrahim Shehem Abli, who slew the chief of the Muda'i'to in single combat, and" — placing the hand of one of his audience in a frightful chasm of the skull, which afforded ample room for three fingers and a half — " here is the wound I received on that occasion. Do you conceive that I can always con- sent to receive the paltry pittance of rice with which I have hitherto been put off? Double the quantity immediately, and see that I have my proper share of dates and coffee too, or by the head of the Prophet we shall not long continue on our present friendly terms." An Arab of desperate fortunes, the an- THE MARCH RESUMED. 79 cestor of this pugnacious little hero, is said to have concealed himself, clothed in white robes, among the spreading branches of a tree ; and his partisans having induced the simple-minded villagers to repair to the spot in the dusk of evening, the intruder, on being discovered, was accosted defe- rentially as a spirit. Revealing himself under the character of a great Arabian warrior, who had slain his thousands in the battle, the man of valor was entreated to descend, and become one of the tribe ; but to this he would by no means consent until a pledge had been passed to recog- nize him as its chief, and assign as his own the whole extent of country visible from his elevated perch, which done, he was pleased to alight, and became the father of Braves. 'T is well for his pos- terity that the experiment had not been made in a later day, or the cotton robe would have been stripped from the shoul- der of the warrior, and a lifeless trunk been left beneath the tree to mark the in- terview. Throughout the sojourn of the embassy at Killulloo, Izhak had peremptorily insist- ed upon the tent being struck at sunset, lest the display of so much white and blue cloth might excite the cupidity of the Be- douins, and the preparations making to carry this despotic order into effect, may perhaps have been the means of ruffling the never very placid temper of his now second in command. The aversion of the ras el kafilah to anything like a habita- ble structure being well understood, the unhoused party amused itself at his ex- pense, by the erection of stone walls of considerable extent, as a shelter during the coming night of rain. " In the name of Allah," he exclaimed, blustering up to the spot, and kicking over a portion of the fa- bric with the pointed toe of the very san- dal that had suffered so severely during the disagreeable debate at Ambabo, — " in the name of Allah and his Prophet what is the meaning of all this ? We shall have our throats cut to a man if your people per- sist in this folly : there will be no rain to- night !" But the rain did fall in torrents, notwith- standing the assurance of the ras ; and al- though the ravine was now comparatively clear of ragamuffins, stones continued to rattle at intervals against the awning erect- ed for the shelter of the European sentries. That portion of the party off duty, steamed, after an hour's drenching, under thick •heavy tarpaulins, while the fluid glided un- heeded over the sleeping persons of the paid escort, who were well greased and oiled, like wild ducks prepared for a long flight. On the last day of the month, after near- ly a week's tedious detention in an insalu- brious and soul-depressing spot, surrounded by black basaltic rocks, where little forage could be obtained, where water, although abundant, was extremely bad, and where the persecutions of prying savages, from whom there was no escape, were unceas- ing, the embassy was again permitted to resume its march. Every hour had seemed an age, and " Galla gassetdi" the well- known cry to load, had therefore never been listened to with more heartfelt delight. Until after the rear of the string of camels left the ground, and Izhak was fairly seated on his mule, it was scarcely possible to be- lieve that some fresh cause of detention would not be discovered ; but the debates were at last over, and the litigants, weary of raising new objections, suffered their victims to advance in peace. The road wound up the Killulloo Wady, and thence over a barren rise strewed with obsidian, and with stones, the common pest of the country, to Waramilli. An interest- ing sight was presented in the line of march of a tribe proceeding in quest of water to the northward — a long line of dromedaries, horned cattle, oxen, sheep, and goats, in- terspersed by women and children, scantily clad in leathern petticoats, and laden with the rude date matting of portable wigwams, or the still ruder implements of household gear. While the females thus bore heavy burdens slung across their breasts or led the files of camels, upon which rocked the long, raking, ship-like ribs of the disman- tled cabin, the lazy lords sauntered ungal- lantly along, encumbered with naught save the equipment of spear and buckler ; the ferocious aspect of all giving ample presage of the intentions entertained toward any party less formidable than themselves. Total absence of water on the route usually pursued had determined the ras el kafilah, after much discussion and delibe- ration, to adopt the lower and shorter road, which, in consequence of the frequent fo- rays of the Galla, had been for some years closed to caravans. But notwithstanding that so much invaluable time had been lost at Killulloo under such provoking circum- stances, and that the march finally made thence fell short of seven miles, he again persisted in halting, thus affording to Hajji Ali Mohammad and Wayess ibn Hagaio an opportunity of rejoining with a party of troublesome Bedouins. The renewed dis- cussions, which did not fail to follow this influx of savages, together with the artful 80 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. assurances given of the danger to be appre- hended on the road selected, had nearly prevailed upon the unstable Izhak to take the kafilah back to Killulloo, for the pur- pose of proceeding by the upper road ; but Ibrahim Shehem Abli, stepping forward in his new capacity, drew his creese, and per- forming sundry not-to-be-mistaken ges- tures, swore vehemently upon the sacred Koran to rip up the kelly of the very first blockhead who should attempt a retrograde step — his object doubtless being to thwart the views of Mohammad Ali, whose tribe, occupying the upper ground, would derive advantage from the transit of the embassy by that quarter. Waramilli is the usual encamping ground of a section of the Gibdosa Ada'iel, but their place was fortunately empty. Completely environed by low hills, it proved insuffera- bly hot ; and no water was obtainable nearer than Wady Killulloo, now distant more than two miles from the bivouac ; but the party were in some measure reconciled to deten- tion in this spot by the arrival from Tajura of a special messenger, bringing letters which bore very recent dates. Neverthe- less the Dankali to whose hands the packet had first been consigned had nearly perished from intense heat and want of water in his attempt to pass the Salt Lake ; and being compelled to relinquish his journey, had returned to the sea-port nearer dead than alive. Petty thefts without end were committed by the lawless rabble who had followed the caravan and located themselves in the im- mediate neighborhood. Ibrahim Shehem Abli, totally regardless of the character due to his exaltation, was detected in the very act of drawing a cloth with his foot over a pair of pistols, while he cleverly held the proprietor in conversation. His design was to obtain a reward for their restitution — a trick in common practice by the camel-dri- vers and hired escort ; and this was by no means the first exhibition of his own kna- very. But it was some consolation to per- ceive that, although the Franks were of course the principal sufferers, depredations were not altogether restricted to their pro- perty. Numerous shields and cloths were abstracted from too confident Danakil ; the ras el kafilah's sandals were purloined ; and at the going down of the sun, a procla- mation went forth through Ibrahim Bur- hanto, the common camp-crier, that Wayess ibn Haga'fo, akil of the Woema, having lost his spear, all parties possessing know- ledge of the nefarious transaction were re- quired to give information of the same to the proprietor, as they hoped to prosper ! CHAPTER XXIX. NAGA KOOMI. MEINHA-TOLLI. MADERA DUBBA, AND SULTELLI. Two windy nights, during which it blew a perfect hurricane, were passed in una- bated vigilance, owing to the number of ruffians lurking about the broken ground, the waters whereof tumble in the rainy season into the rugged chasm of Killulloo. At an early hour on the 2nd of July, a voice went through the camp, summoning the slothful camel-drivers to bestir them- selves ; and the incessant growling of their disturbed beasts, which arose in various keys of dissatisfaction from every part of the circle, followed by drowsy Danakil im- precations, and by the merciless dismant- ling of huts, to the destruction of bales and boxes, presently announced that the work of loading had duly commenced. A march of fifteen miles over a country more level than usual, though sufficiently rough and stony withal, led through the Doomi valley to Naga Koomi. An abutting prong of land, under which the road wound, was adorned with a cluster of bee-hive- shaped huts styled Koriddra, and at its base the balsamodendron myrrha grew abund- antly, — the aromatic branches furnishing every savage in the caravan with a new tooth-brush, to be carried in the scabbard of the creese. The encampment occu- pied a wide, dreary plain, bounded by the high mountain range of Jebel Feeoh ; and although water was said to exist in the neighborhood, it proved too distant to be accessible. The ras el kafilah, at whose hands the Franks experienced about the same amount of resp3ct and tolerance as a rich Jew in the days of Coeur de Lion, here imperious- ly demanded daily rations of rice and dates for the band of spearmen left as an escort by the akil of the Hy Somauli ; and on being informed that this very unreasona- ble request could not be complied with, in consequence of the tedious delays on the road having reduced the supplies so low as to be barely sufficient to last to Abys- sinia, his brow became suddenly overcast, he relapsed into his wonted ill-humor, re- jected a tendered sheep with indignation, and flung out of the tent in a passion. It rained heavily during the greater part of the night, and an early summons to rise found the party again drenched to the skin. The inclement weather had not by any means tended to restore Izhak to smiles ; and his mats having proved quite insufficient to preserve him from full par- WHISTLING FORBIDDEN. 81 ticipation in the pleasures of the noctur- nal bath, the effect upon his temper was but too manifest. " Do n 't whistle, do n 't whistle !" he exclaimed with a sneer to one of his charge, who was so amusing himself within hearing; "what are you whistling for? I have loaded the camels under a prayer from the sacred Koran and you are doing your best to break the spell, and call up gins by your whistling. 'La illah Wallah, wo Mohammad rasid illah ;' " " there is no God but God, and Mohammad is the Prophet of God." ''■Fein tero J In the name of the three kaliphs where are you going to ]" again vociferated the testy old man, in a terrible passion, to the same luckless individual, who, with a loaded rifle in his hand, had now left the road in pursuit of an antelope. " ' Taal lienna ! ' ■ Come back, will you !' Wullah! you r ll be getting your throat cut presently by the Buddoos, and then I shall be asked what has become of you. Can 't you keep the road ? This ugly defile is named 'the place of lions,' and one of them will be eating you anon." Another march of fifteen miles brought the caravan to Meinha-tolli, where some hollows had been filled by the recent heavy fall of rain ; but large droves of horned cattle having soiled in them, the muddy water was so strongly tainted, as to be barely drinkable under any disguise. The country throughout bears signs of violent volcanic eruption of later times, which has covered one portion with lava, and an- other with ashes and cinders. At the out- set the road led over the usual basaltic ground, strewed with fragments of obsid- ian ; but after crossing Arnoot, a deep ra- vine choked with refreshing green bushes, in which the exhausted beasts obtained a most welcome supply of muddy water, the stony valleys gave place to sandy plains, clothed with short yellow grass, and inter- sected by low ranges of hills. One wide level expanse termed Azoroo., stretching at the foot of the peaked moun- tain Aiulloo, was pointed out in the dis- tance, as the scene of a signal victory gained about six years since by the Woema over their predatory foes, the Mudaito. Ths bones of upward of three thousand of the combatants which now whiten the sands, have caused the desertion of the best road by the superstitious Danakil. With the escort were many warriors who had taken part in this engagement, and they described the conflict, which com- menced in a night attack, to have raged, spear to spear, and shield to shield, through- out the entire of the following day, toward the close of which the advantage was gained, and the " red house" routed. A sheep being sent for as usual in the evening, from the flock belonging to the embassy, the ras el kafilah stoutly assert- ed that the whole had been transferred to himself for consumption by the escort of Hy Somauli, and although eventually com- pelled to relinquish one, he did so with an extremely bad grace. Thunder and light- ning, with severe squalls and heavy rain, again closed the day — and great confusion and discomfort was occasioned by a sud- den whirl of wind, followed by the fall upon the party of the saturated tent, from the wet folds of which escape was not easily effected. A dreary night succeed- ed. The watery moon shed but a dull and flitting light over the drenched camp ; and the pacing officer of the watch, after an hour's exposure to the pitiless hurricane, calling up his relief, threw himself with aching bones upon the inundated bed. " Did I not tell you what would be the consequence of your abominable whist- ling," grumbled old Izhak, the first thing in the morning ; " old Ali Arab is too sick to be moved, and one of my best camels has strayed, Allah knows where." The rope with which the legs of the lost animal had been fettered, wa3 meanwhile rolled betwixt his hands, and sundry cabalistic words having been muttered while the devil was dislodged by the process of spit- ting upon the cord at the termination of each spell, it was finally delivered over to the Dankali about to be sent on the quest, and he presently returned successful. Ahmed Mohammad, the messenger who had been dispatched from Taj^lra with an Arabic letter for Sahela Selassie, request- ing assistance on the road, returned during this delay. He had passed the night in a Bedouin encampment, the proximity of which had been betrayed by the barking of dogs at each discharge of the musket when the sentinel was relieved. The cou- rier brought advices to the embassy, and native letters for Izhak and Mohammad Ali. Owing to the jealousy of the frontier officers of Efat, he had been subjected to many days of needless detention, during which the king had led a distant military expedition ; and although compliments and assurances of welcome were not wanting, they were coupled with the unsatisfactory intelligence that the party must trust en- tirely to its own resources, as in the ab- sence of his majesty, no assistance what- ever could be rendered. The rainy season having now fairly set in, it was believed that the pools on the 82 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. upper road would furnish a sufficient sup- ply of water, and the course was accord- ingly shaped toward it. Emerging" upon the extensive plain of Merihan, bounded to the westward by the lofty peaked range of Feeoh, the route skirted the Bundoora hills, thickly clothed with grass, and vary- ing in height from six hundred to a thou- sand feet. Wayess, the chief of the Woe- ma, formerly held his head-quarters in this neighborhood, at Hagai'o-dera-dubba ; but the Eesah Somauli making frequent in- roads, and at last sweeping offall the cattle of the tribe, it was abandoned. The hill ranges on both sides have sent lava streams almost to the middle of the plain, but gene- rally it is covered with a fine light-colored soil, strewn with volcanic ashes and small fragments of obsidian — the grass, improved by the recent showers, having partially ac- quired a greenish tint. A singular detach- ed hill composed of fresh-water limestone, contained a few impressions of small spiral shells, while the surrounding rocks exhibit the usual cellular basalt. No one could conceive that the rugged arid wastes whereon he trod, had ever in themselves been either productive or popu- lous. Saving the labors of the termites, exhibited in endless mounds of vast dimen- sions, no monument of industry redeems the inhospitable landscape ; yet these mea- sureless plains, no less than the barren mountain ranges so lately traversed, did formerly, as now they might, afford hordes of hardy soldiers, that under a bold leader, such as the mighty Graan, who in the six- teenth century unfurled the banner of the impostor, and at the head of a countless army overran and nearly destroyed the Ethiopic empire, were admirably adapted to possess themselves of the more fertile plains and provinces adjoining. What- ever may have been the virtues and en- dowments of these olden warriors, their posterity, like the dwellings they inhabit, are sufficiently rude and degenerate. Wady Bundoora, clothed in a thicket of verdant bushes, had been selected as the halting ground, and its appearance prom- ised a copious supply of water ; but every pool proved dry, and the march was there- fore continued to Madera dubba — a second and similar ravine, which was confidently expected to afford the desired element. Disappointment was, however, again in store, and the rain not having extended thus far, the usual reservoirs were referred to in vain. Worse than all, information was here received that not a drop of water would be found at the next station ; while, owing to the wear and tear of skins, added to the too confident anticipations indulged, bare ly a sufficient supply for even one day ac- companied the kafilah. It had been determined under these un- toward circumstances, to move on at mid- night ; but after an insufferably hot day, rain again interfered. Unfortunately, it did not fall in sufficient quantities to be of much utility ; a few pints caught in tar- paulins, which, with all available utensils, were placed for the reception of the pre- cious fluid, proving very inadequate to the wants of the thirsty party. At 3 a. m. the caravan advanced down the valley, with cool refreshing weather, and a fine moon shining brightly overhead. From the sum- mit of a tumulus of black lava, marking the point where the undulations of the Bun- doora hills trend toward the mountains of the Ittoo Galla, an extensive view was ob- tained with the dawning day, over a coun- try bearing the most extraordinary vol- canic character — huge craters on the one hand towering to the clouds, while on the other sank the wide valley of Kordeite, through which lay the high road to the desolate plains of Errur. A few pools of muddy rain water by the wayside were eagerly drained by the sink- ing cattle, but a deep ravine, bordered with green trees and bushes, was explored to no purpose ; and after crossing the fine open plain of Eyroluf, abounding in gazels and swine, the road led round the base of a remarkable cone, styled Jebel Helmund, which had long been in view. Isolated, and four hundred feet in height, with a crater opening to the northeastward, which would seem at no very remote period to have discontinued its eruption, it is sur- rounded by a broad belt of lava, some three miles in diameter. This has formed to- ward the plain a black scarped wall, rising from fifteen to twenty feet, of which the wooded crevices teemed with quail, par- tridges, and guinea-fowl, and were said to be so many great dens of lions. The sultry forenoon was already far ad- vanced, when the weary eye was refreshed by a glimpse of the verdant plain of Sul- telli, a perfectly level expanse, so ingeni- ously overgrown with pale green vegeta- tion, as to furnish an exact representation of a wide lake covered with floating duck- weed, around which numerous camels were busily browsing on the rank herbage. During the greater part of the year, this plain presents one vast and delightful sheet of water; but the fairy form of the light-footed gazel was presently seen, bounding over the delusive surface, and although clothed throughout with the most PROVIDENTIAL RAIN— MOUNT ABIDA. 83 tantalizing verdure, it yet proved perfectly dry. The camels were milch females, capable of subsisting for days, and even for weeks together, without drinking, while their milk serves to quench the thirst of their unwashed Bedouin attend- ants. Beedur, the chief of a section of the Debeni, who resides in this spot during the rainy season, had long since decamped with his clan to more distant pastures. Every hollow in the rich black soil, abounding with shells, was vainly explored ; and after a seventeen-mile march, the party, weary and thirsty, were fain to en- camp on the opposite side, and giving up the search as fruitless, to rest satisfied with the nauseous contents of water-skins filled at the putrid pools of Meinha-tolli — a second, and if possible, a worse edition of the impurities brewed at the Salt Lake. Both among men and cattle the utmost distress prevailed. A suffocating blast blew incessantly ; heat the most intense was reflected from the adjacent black rocks ; and nearly all of the horses and mules were so completely exhausted, that there appeared no prospect of dragging them other sixteen miles to the nearest reservoir. But toward midnight, the beneficent floodgates of heaven were providentially opened, and a violent storm bursting over the camp, in less then half an hour filled every ravine and hollow to overflowing, and afforded a plentiful and truly season- able, although transient supply. Tearing up their pickets from the saturated soil, the dying animals thrust into the turbid stream that rolled through the encamp- ment their hot noses, which, for two entire days and nights had been strangers to moisture, and filled their sunken flanks almost to bursting. Cackling troops of guinea-fowl flocked to the pools from the adjacent heights. Embankments were thrown up, and wells excavated ; and Eu- ropean, Danakil,and camp-follower; Chris- tian, Moslem, and Hindoo ; all drenched to the skin, falling together upon their knees, in the posture of thanksgiving, sucked down the first copious draught of palatable water that had been enjoyed since leaving Fialoo. CHAPTER XXX. FIELD OF EXTINCT VOLCANOES. OASIS OF YOOR ERAlN MAROO. Singular and interesting indeed is the wild scenery in the vicinity of the treach- erous oasis of Sultelli. A field of extinct volcanic cones, vomited forth out of the entrails of the earth, and encircled each by a black belt of vitrified lava, environs it on three sides ; and of these, Mount Abi- da, three thousand feet, in height, whose yawning cup, enveloped in clouds, stretches some two and a half miles in diameter, would seem to be the parent. Beyond, the still loftier crater of Aiulloo, the ancient landmark of the now decayed empire of Ethiopia, is visible in dim perspective ; and looming hazily in the extreme dis- tance, the great blue Abyssinian range to- ward which the steps of the toil-worn wayfarers were directed — now for the first time visible — arose in towering grandeur to the skies. Overwhelmed by violent subterranean convulsion and commotion, which, rever- sing the order of things, has again and again altered the former appearance, the face ot the country for miles around the base of the larger volcanoes, presents one sheet of lava. Activity would not appear to have extended much beyond the imme- diate neighborhood of each ; but there is a connection between the whole cluster visible in small lava streams and a vast quantity of volcanic debris, converted into humus, in the adjacent valleys. Yet it is by no means apparent, that these alone have contributed to form the present sur- face, the southeastern side of the field ter- minating in much older formation of wacke. Neither would any one of the craters ap- pear to have very lately poured out the fiery stream. Ibrahim Shehem Abli in- deed deposed with an oath to having seen Father Abida in flames about twelve years previously ; but, on further investigation, there seemed reason to believe that the conflagration he witnessed must have been confined to the long grass with which portions of the steep sides are clothed. The well-timed deluge of rain which fell during the night had been so eagerly drunk by the thirsty desert, that when the morning dawned, the only traces of the storm were presented in numberless chan- nels left by the torrent, with here and there a muddy pool, around which the guinea-fowl were still rallying in clamo- rous troops. Every portion of the road having been saturated, and rendered far too heavy for the jaded camels, advance was of necessity delayed until noon, by which time they had become sufficiently dry to admit of the resumption of the journey. A bare alluvial plain, skirting the base of the Koomi range, led to a few acacia-trees of a larger growth than had 84 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. heretofore been seen. They occupied a hollow styled Ras Mittur, which is the point of union of the two roads from Killul- loo, and hence the caravan struck off across a grassy plain, abounding in herds of graceful mhorr. The course followed the eastern border of the field of truncated cones ; and in the fresh green hue of the bushes, with which the cindery tract is studded, was afforded abundant proof of the fertility of its decomposed lava. Passing a cluster of Bedouin huts, whose inmates were watching their grazing herds of milch camels, the road next threaded a narrow belt of verdant jungle. This sud- denly opened into the wide plain of Moolu, studded in every direction with flocks of sheep and goats, assembled from all parts of the country round ; and in a deep hol- low in the very centre lay the attraction — the oasis of Yoor Era'in Maroo, a noble sheet of water, surrounded by a belt of hillocks, and measuring, during even this season of drought, a full mile in diameter. It was indeed a sight most refreshing to the eye. Troops of water-fowl of various plumage sailed over its glassy surface. Birds chattered among the autumnal branches of the numerous trees, whose tall stems, half immersed, rose thickly in the centre, and the cool waters of the ba- sin afforded to the weary and travel-stained pilgrims the first unlimited supply of pure liquid that had been revelled in since bid- ding ad:eu to the shores of India. In so sultry a land, where, throughout the desert and forbidding plain, Nature has dispensed the first necessary of life with a most niggard hand, those pools which have not a constant supply of running water, soon become adulterated by various de- compositions of organic and inorganic matter. Wacke cannot resist any long exposure, and hence fluid in contact with it imbibes oxide of iron and muriate of soda ; while flocks and herds, corrupting the element in a still more offensive man- ner, not only impart a fetid taste and smell, but stir up the deposited mud, which emits a volume of sulphuretted hydrogen. Yoor Era'in Maroo was free from all these im- purities, and its reservoir affords a never- failing supply ; but the surrounding coun- try is said during the wet season to be ex- tremely unhealthy, violent storms and in- cessant rain compelling the shepherds to abandon the plains and wadies, and retreat with their flocks to the neighboring moun- tains. From Waramilli to Moolu, the country is chiefly occupied by the sub-tribes of Debeni, under the chiefs Beedur and Boo Bekr Sumbhool, the latter of whom usually resides at Hamoosa, and the former at Doomi or Sultelli. Although not always to be trusted, these wanderers appear un- der a friendly garb ; but the lion-hearted guides and escort, with Izhak at their head, had, from the first moment of leaving Kil- lulloo, been doing their utmost to impress upon the minds of their audience the ex- treme danger to be apprehended on this portion of the road, from the various wild hordes now adjacent, whom they painted as perfect dare-devils. " The Galla are pagans," quoth Ibrahim Shehem Abli with a bigoted sneer, " and, uncircumcised knaves that they are, never heard either of Allah or the Holy Prophet ; and as for the Muda'i'to, although nomi- nally Moslems, they have little more re- ligion than their infidel neighbors. But wait until I get an opportunity," he added, with a caper and a sardonic grin, as he unsheathed his creese for the purpose of going through the figwre of disembowel- ment, " only wut until I find an opportu- nity, and, Inshdllah, we shall square ac- counts." Many were the harrowing tales that had been called to mind by the first loom of the Abyssinian mountains, touching the toil-worn traveller, who, having surmount- ed all the perils and privations of the road, and arrived within sight of the promised land, had been cut off at the very last step toward the goal. Perpetual strife is waged betwixt the Galla and Muda'ito, and the plain of Moolu forming a sort of neutral ground between the countries inhabited by the rival clans, it proves one continual scene of foray and bloodshed. The heath- en, watching like hawks from the tops of trees ?nd eminences, pounce, whenever opportunity offers, upon the flocks and herds of the true believers : retaliation is not slow to follow, and thus the feud is well and incessantly sustained. During the latter part of the march, the ras el kafilah was nearly thrown into hys- terics by the sudden desertion of one of his charge, who, in defiance of the close thraldom, which rendered all more like prisoners than freemen, had made up his mind to dine that night upon venison, and had accordingly taken up arms against the alluring herds of sleek and timid an- telope that, with white discs on their crup- pers, bounded in all directions before the advancing string of camels. Repeated in- terrogatories of " Fein toro ?" " whither are you going?" were launched in a commanding tone of voice after the truant, without eliciting the smallest attention or THE HAUNCH OF VENISON. 85 reply. A shot was fired — a fat buck fell — and the successful Nimrod, dismounting, proceeded to secure the spoils ; an opera- tion which brought from their occupation in the adjacent pasture, two ancient Be- douin crones, in wrinkles and leathern aprons, to be spectators of the dissection. Izhak was old and captious, and not see- ing very clearly, the apparition was too much for his shattered nerves. "Allah, Allah!" he peevishly exclaimed, seizing his broad-headed spear from the hand of his henchman, and violently kicking the flanks of his jaded mule toward the spot ; " merciful Providence, what childish folly is this ? Is the commander a babe, that he thus trifles with the safety of the cara- van ? I did fancy that he possessed some sense, but this is positively the act of a madman. Look at those Buddoos ; they will cut his throat immediately, and then we shall have a pretty blood feud, involv- ing the lives of half-a-dozen Danakil." Despite of all the twaddling old block- head could do to prevent it, the haunch was nevertheless brought in, and its ap- pearance hailed with considerable delight. But it might almost as well have been abandoned to the vultures of the air, since the Persian cook, who had taken alarm at the menace extended to Quilp in the pros- ecution of his kennel duties, peremptorily refused to convert the venison into kabdbs, upon the grounds that the knife of the true believer had not passed across the throat of the victim. " Whose dog is Hajji Abdallah Kurma- ni ?" he exclaimed, in tones that might have been believed to issue from a dilapi- dated bagpipe ; " whose dog is he, I re- peat," throwing the haunch upon the ground, " that he should be invited to deal with any such abomination ? Allah and his Prophet defend us, but the Hajji would as soon think of polluting himself with the touch of the unclean beast." This spirited public declaration was by the Moslem audience received with the rapturous applause it claimed ; and the worthy pilgrim, fairly carried away by the over-boiling of his virtuous indignation, was actually proceeding to wreak his last vengeance upon the venison, when arbi- trary measures where adopted, which re- sulted in the imposition of twenty-four hours' fast in excess of the many inflicted by the apostle whose shrine he had visited at the holy city. Now the Hajji bore a striking personal resemblance to Hudibras ; and like that hero, regarded discretion as being the bet- ter part of valor. Since the melancholy disaster at Goongoonteh, he had encum- bered himself with a musket and a modi- cum of cartridges ; but even by his warm- est admirers it must be confessed that there had never in his demeanor been the slight- est indication of a design to throw himself away by rash exposure. Entertaining the highest respect for himself, the prudent son of Iran was rarely heard to speak of Hajj i Abdallah, save in the respectful third per- son singular. The words of Ibrahim She- hem had sunk deep into his soul ; and after the affair of the venison, it was not a little diverting to hear him, in his wonted croaking accents, apostrophize the folly and infatuation which had prompted him to brave the wilds of unexplored Africa. " Hajji Abdallah was never taxed with lack of common sense," he exclaimed, musingly, in self-reproach. " Allah knows there may be many greater blockheads in this sublunary world, than his servant Hajji. Is it not wonderful that the chief cook to Khwajah Mohammad Rahim Khan Shirazi, and master, too, of recipes for no fewer than nine-and-thirty pildos, should have proven himself such an ass, such a son of a burnt father, as voluntarily to get in the way of abuse, for refusing to kabdb unhallowed meat, which died without the knife or the Bismillah ; and, worse still, in the way of having his own throat cut every minute of each day and night, by these blood-thirsty infidels ? • La houl wil- lah koowut illdh billah all ul-azeem? ' there is no power nor virtue save in God.' What true believer, in the fair province of Kur- man, would ever have suspected Hajji Ab- dallah of bringing his beard to so vile a market ?" CHAPTER XXXI. MENACE OF THE BAR MUDA1TO. MOOLU ZUGHlR, AND BURDUDDA. Boo Bekr Sumbhool and Datah Mo- hammad, co-chiefs of that section of the Debeni styled Sidi Habroo, shortly sneak- ed into the camp at the head of an appro- priate retinue of ruffians ; and having been duly propitiated with tobacco and blue cal- ico, deputed a son of the latter to represent the tribe, as an earnest of the black mail having been levied. Mohammad Ali pro- posed under these circumstances to halt a day, both in order to profit by the first op- portunity enjoyed of purifying raiment ; and, which was of still higher importance, to refresh the way-worn beasts. But the ras was in such dire alarm of the Bedouins and' 86 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Galla, that he had been with the utmost difficulty prevailed upon to encamp near the water; and no persuasion could now elicit his consent to tarry. Columns of smoke which arose high and dense from the country in advance, did not tend to diminish his apprehensions. A shadowy- human figure stealing along the summit of the gloomy cliffs which overhung the camp, redoubled his mental perturbation ; and anathemizing Moolu, as the most dan- gerous nest of thieves and cut-throats along the entire road, he would that minute have resumed the march in the dead of night, had not heavy rain compelled him to bite his nails until a late hour the following forenoon, by which time the camel furni- ture had become dry. But the event proved that there were on this occasion some grounds for uneasiness. During the process of loading, three mount- ed Mudaito scouts, wild-looking beings, rode into camp in a suspicious manner ; and immediately after moving out of the bed of the hollow, whence the road led over an extensive plain, covered with low shrubby undergrowth, the ras el kafilah, who momentarily waxed more fidgety and excited, called a general halt, and assumed his shield and brass-mounted spear. " Look well to your weapons," he ob- served, with a truly commander-in-chief- like delivery, * and let all the proprietors of fire-arms lead the van with myself. Two thousand of the Dar Mudaito are out on a foray against the Galla of the neigh- boring hills ; and I have received certain intelligence that they purpose this day to fall upon the caravan. May Allah protect his servants in the coming strife !" Suitable defensive preparations were made without delay, and the camels form- ed ten deep, to admit of the whole line being enfiladed by rifle-balls ; while the Danakil and Hy Somauli escort, with loins girded for the fight, brought up the rear. Scarcely had these arrangements been com- pleted, when a band of fifty warriors were descried advancing in a compact body over the brow of an adjacent eminence. Car- rying their round bucklers on the left arm, and bristling their bright spears, they pressed rapidly toward the front of the line, " on hostile deeds intent." Out to meet them sprang the fiery little champion Ibrahim Shehem, who panted to flesh his creese in the body of another Mudaito, and twenty stout warriors, casting off" their upper garments, to give freedom to their limbs, were not far behind him. The car- avan remained motionless to watch the event; and the formidable line of rifles fronted the foe, who no sooner perceived the muzzles bearing directly on their pha- lanx, than they lowered their spears to de- mand a parley ; and described themselves to be en route from Jebel Abida to join their clansmen, who were gathering at the waters of Maroo, preparatory to a "goom" or onslaught, upon their hereditary ene- mies, the Alia and Ittoo Galla. The march was resumed immediately upon this banditti passing quietly to the rear, and Ibrahim Shehem Abli relapsed into his wonted composure ; but the foot- prints of several other parties being shortly afterward discovered, the beaten track was abandoned altogether, in order, if possible, to avoid meeting the marauders in number, when the plunder of so rich a caravan would doubtless have been essayed. An advance guard reconnoitered the country round from the summits of trees and ter- mite cones, which alone admitted of an uninterrupted view over the thick verdant bushes, that clothed the entire face of the plain. These were interspersed with rich yellow grass, swarming with antelope, hares, bustard, and florikin ; while fine cedar-like camel-thorns stretched their long arms over troops of pintadoes, coveys of partridges, and spur-fowl. Not a trig- ger was suffered to be drawn, lest the re- port should attract to the spot the much- dreaded Mudaito ; but although hundreds of warriors might have been ambushed in the dense covert unperceived, it was safely traversed without further hostile demon- stration ; and the country becoming gradu- ally more and more open, the view extend- ed to the fine peaked range near Afrubba, inhabited by the Ittoo Galla — war-hawks of the mountains, who are distinguished for their sanguinary ferocity. A cloud of dust in the extreme distance being believed to prognosticate a rush of these wild horsemen, the caravan was again halted ere it had proceeded far over the open plain ; but the magnifying pow- ers of a pocket-telescope converting the objects of alarm into a troop of scudding ostriches, Izhak's confidence once more returned. The residue of the march lay over cracked and blackened soil, from which the vegetation had been burnt the preceding day, the embers still smoulder- ing in various directions, although the columns of smoke had ceased to ascend. Neither fuel nor water could be dis- covered at the ground selected for the bivouac, but a small supply of the latter requisite was obtained on the way, from a muddy brook trickling over the charred surface of the soil, and filling the i^pidF" SHEIKH OTHMAN— WATERS OF MOOLU. 87 cracks and crevices on its progress toward the lower ground. This strange pheno- menon arose from the wady at Moolu Zughir, near Afrubba, some miles to the southward, having been filled to overflow- ing by the recent heavy rain. Moolu Tani, or " the other Moolu," afforded a most alluring spot of bright green vege- tation just sprouting from the rich soil which here abounds, and among it the cattle luxuriated until dark. Sundry in- vocations were now performed with horrid yells, to enable one of the savages to di- vine the coming of rain ; but a night passed in vigilance by sentinels posted on ant-hills, which afforded an uninterrupted view over the surrounding plain, gave place to dawn without any molestation from thunder-storm, Galla, orMuda'ito. Betimes in the morning the march was resumed across an alluvial plain, which a few days later in the season would proba- bly have presented a swamp impassable to camels ; but no difficulties were now ex- perienced, and the caravan passed merrily on toward a conspicuous barn-shaped hill, which had been visible for many miles. At its base, among sundry other cairns, stood a mound of loose stones, encircled by a thorn fence, and almost concealed under the forest of withered boughs that decked every part. Beneath this grotto reposed the sainted bones of Othman, the celebrated Tukha'iel sheikh of days long gone. * Amid prayers and ejaculations in honor of the departed, according to the custom still prevalent in the southern parts of continental Europe, each warrior of the Bedouin escort first in order, and then the drivers as they passed, having previously plucked from some adjacent tree a branch of verdant misletoe, adorn- ed the venerated pile ; and long ere the arrival of the last camel, it had exchanged its sober autumnal garb for the bright green mantle of spring. Picturesque clumps of magnificent ca- mel-thorns of ancient growth here stud- ded the face of the landscape, and, covered with golden blossoms, perfumed the entire atmosphere. The myrrh-tree flourished on the hill-side, and the " garsee " was first found under a load of fruit resembling the " leechee." The bright crimson pulp possesses an agreeable acidity, and the kernel that it envelopes pleases the Dana- kil in a mess of sheep's-tail fat. No wood had hitherto been seen sufficiently dense to invite the elephant ; but in this covert the giant evidently existed ; and the oryx, appropriately styled " Aboo el kurovn," " the father of horns," ranged in consid- erable numbers ; the half-devoured car- case of one which had been slain the pre- ceding night, attesting the presence also of the " king of beasts." The agility of the Adaiel in reclaiming a refractory camel, although often wit- nessed with admiration, had never been more prominently exhibited than during this march. One of the most skittish and unmanageable animals of the whole hun- dred and seventy, had very judiciously been selected by Izhak for a large chest containing medical stores, and the halter was usually held by a gentle slave girl, whom it was the delight of the sahib el bayzah to cuff and maltreat. Taking a sudden whim into its head, the restive beast, after the performance of sundry pre- liminary plunges to ascertain if the load were firm, dashed off the road, galloped over the feeble maid, and, smashing her water-gourd into a thousand fragments, roaring and bellowing, pursued its head- long career across the stony plain. Phials and bottles were undergoing a most de- structive discipline, when a fleet-footed savage, who was in hot pursuit, and had already twice turned the fugitive, darting across its orbit, abruptly terminated these gratuitous and uncouth gambols by a sud- den twitch of the nose-rope, which brought owner, dromedary, and medicine-chest sim- ultaneously to the earth, with a crash that sounded ominously enough, although not the slightest injury was sustained by either. Meanwhile the caravan had reached Burdudda, where a large pool of dirty rain- water extended strong inducements to en- camp, and again led to a violent altercation between the authorities. Apprehensive of misunderstandings with the Bedouin shep- herds in the vicinity, Izhak had sapiently resolved to proceed some miles farther to a waterless station, while Mohammad Ali, insisting that the kafilah should halt, commenced the work of unloading. The camels of either party were for some time divided ; but the ras, after trying the strata- gem of advance without shaking his rival's resolution, finally yielded up the point with a bad grace, and all set up their staff. The outline of the highlands of Abys- sinia, which had been first indistinctly visible from Sultelli, now stood out in bold relief; and to the southward the view was bounded by the lofty hills of the Afrubba, Parsa, and Azboti Galla, where coffee grows wild in abundance. An interme- diate extensive prospect is obtained over the thickly- wooded Moolu plain, stretching some thirty miles in the direction of Errur. This latter is the residence of the old 88 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. sheikh Hajji Ali Mohammad, and the head-quarters of the Debeni, who take hereditary share in the waters of the val- ley with their brethren the Woema. It forms, moreover, a place of resort for every wandering vagabond in the surrounding country who possesses a sheep, a goat, or an ox, or has the ability and the inclina- tion to assert his privilege of erecting a temporary cabin ; and thus the recurrence of each season of drought, compelling the abandonment of less favored pastures, pours in its migratory swarm to swell the more permanent muster upon the sultry plains of Errur, and to create the strife inseparable from a gathering of these law- less hordes. CHAPTER XXXII. A TALE OF THE PLAINS OF ERRUR.* Aylia was the comeliest of the dark- eyed daughters of the desert. Sixteen tropical summers had already ripened a form modelled in that exquisite perfection which Nature is wont to bestow upon her wildest works, and the native symmetry of the sylph-like maid was yet unblemished by any of those barbarous improvements wherein her nation delight. Her spark- ling eye, fringed with long silken lashes, in brilliancy eclipsed the pet gazel that ever bounded by her side ; and the grace- ful gambols of the sportive fawn would seem to have been inspired by the fairy footstep of its blooming mistress. Luxu- riant hair fell in elf-like tresses over her ebon shoulder. Teeth of ivory whiteness were revealed by a radiant smile that ever played over her animated features ; and few indeed of her virgin charms were veiled under the folds of the slender dra- pery that belongs to the Bedouin shep- herdess. The maid tended her father's flocks in the Vale of Errur, which forms a constant scene of predatory incursion on the part of the ruthless savages that hover round the border. When least expected, the Galla war-hawks of the adjacent mountains were wont to stoop from their rocky fastnesses, and to sweep away the riches of the Woema. The treacherous Eesah, although ready to extend the hand which should have denoted friendship, was nothing loath * The following narrative, recounted by one of the Woema escort, although necessarily enlarged, is as strictly literal as the embodiment of the subject would admit ; and it will convey to the English reader a bet- ter picture of life in the desert than could be painted in a less connected form. to the appropriation of other men's chat- tels ; and throughout all the nomade Adel hordes, whose tents were erected during the more sultry months, the feud and the desultory skirmish favored the inroads of the foe. Among the surrounding clans, even her own tribe was not notorious for its honesty, and by frequent depredations abroad, it invited the foray of reprisal. Thus the brawl and the mortal encounter would follow the stillness of indolent ex- istence with a rapidity not less startling than frequent, and none knew what the next hour might bring forth. But fear had no place in the breast of the daughter of old Ali. Nursed in the lap of strife, the Bedouin blood of her rov- ing sire coursed through her young veins, and she pursued her Arcadian occupation beneath the spreading boughs of the vene- rable acacia, chanting to her gazel the wild ditty that revealed the thraldom of her heart, or listening to the bleat of her black- faced lambs from the Hejaz. Often had the shrill war-whoop rung through the wild valley, and the rush of the gathering warriors who flew to answer the summons, arrested her plaintive song, but only lately had it caused her to spring to her feet with a bosom throbbing audibly ; and now she would sigh as she sank again upon the smooth bank that formed her favorite seat, for the swain for whom her soft eyes had been strained across the flickering desert was not among the number of those that had swept past, and she knew not why, nor whither he had gone. Many were the ardent suitors who had wooed the hand of the blooming Aylia, and often-times had she been sought from her avaricious father, who viewed the still ex- panding attractions of his daughter as a certain source of increase to his ill-gotten and idolized wealth. None, however, had yet been able to produce the price set upon the damsel's charms, neither had any pos- sessed an advocate in her eloquence. Her heart had already been tacitly relinquished, but her hand she knew to be in the gift of her sire, and therefore not her own to be- stow. Ambeesa it was who had silently gained this ascendency over the green affections of the maid. The milch goats of Irripa, his mother, were by her driven daily to pasture, and his wigwam was within spear's throw of her own. The twain had known each other from earliest infancy, for they came upon the world's stage in the self-same hour. They had feasted and they had played together as children ; and now that their young hearts had become TALE OF THE PLAINS OF ERRUR. 89 entwined, it was his wont to accompany the nymph into the vale, where they would hold converse the livelong day. The vapid language of the savage admits of but a limited embodiment of the softer passions ; but the simple courtship of the unculti- vated was ably sustained. Aylia felt the force of her charms when she saw the warrior grasp the spear and the shield, without which no Bedouin ever crosses the threshold of his cabin — in order that he might chase the fawn that she had coveted ; or when he drew water from the well in her gourd, to replenish again and again the ox-hide that formed a drinking trough for her thirsty flock. And Am- beesa felt himself amply rewarded, when the slender fingers of the blooming girl decked his hair with the aromatic herbs that she had plucked in the wild meadow, or she counted over the ewes that they were shortly to possess in common. Ambeesa was ever in the foremost rank when the spear was thrown over the shoul- der of the brave ; and, successful in every foray, he had won wealth as well as fame. None appeared more frequently in the many-tailed leopard spoils which form the garb of victory ; and the white feather al- ways floated above his raven locks. But his father having been treacherously mur- dered by the Eesah, a blood feud clung to the old man's sole descendant; and it formed to him a source of self-reproach, that, although he had for years dogged the footsteps of the assassin, the opportunity had never yet occurred when he might wash out the stajn ! A skulker among his clansmen at a distant oasis, the cowardly savage had profited of his deep cunning to baffle the creese of the avenger ; and he still vaunted his trophy of blood, without any account of its acquisition having been required. But the day of reckoning and of retribu- tion was now nigh at hand. The mother of Ambeesa had counted out the dowry demanded of any who should espouse young Aylia, and had claimed the girl as her daughter-in-law elect. At the sight of the beeves, and the fat rams, and the trinkets, and the trumpery cloth, the sole remaining eye of the old sheikh glistened with a lustre that it had not known for years ; but his haughty soul could ill brook the thought of his daughter being wedded to one whose father's death thus rested unavenged. "Get thee hence, young man," he exclaimed sternly, shaking his silvered locks, after a short inward conflict with his avarice — "get thee hence, nor show thy face again within my doors as a suitor, until thou hast appeased the spirit of thy murdered sire. The blood of him to whom thou art indebted for thy exist- ence, crieth aloud for vengeance ; and Wullahi, until the grave of Hassan shall have been soaked by thy hands, thou shalt not talk to Ali of his daughter." Ambeesa sought not his dark mistress, but snatching the spear and buckler which had been carefully deposited in a corner of the cabin, stalked forth without uttering a syllable. Passing his own hut in mental abstraction, he took the road to the brook, and throwing himself upon his face, drew a deep draught to allay the fever that con- sumed him. Then whetting his brass- mounted creese to the keenest edge upon a smooth stone, he muttered a dreadful oath betwixt his clenched teeth, and strode moodily across the sandy plain. The great annual fair had already as- sembled at the sea-port of Berbera, and tribes from all parts of the country were flocking thither with their motley wares. The curious stalls of the fat Banians from India were thronged from morning until night with barbarians from the adjacent districts, who brought peltries and drugs to be exchanged ; and the clamor of hag- gling and barter was hourly increased, by the arrival of some new caravan of toil- worn peddlers from th$ more remote depths of the interior, each la,den with an acces- sion of rich merchandise, to be converted into baubles and blue calico, at a clear net profit to the specious Hindoo of two hun- dred per cent. Myrrh, ivory, and gum- arabic ; civet, frankincense, and ostrich- feathers, were piled in every corner of his booth ; and the tearing of ells of Nile stuff* and Surat cloth, and the counting out of porcelain beads, was incessant so long as the daylight lasted. Withered beldames, with cracked penny-trumpet voices, were meanwhile actively employed in the erec- tion of new edifices ; and more and more camels were ever pouring toward the scene of primitive commerce, loaded with the long elastic ribs, and the coarse date mat- ting, which form the skeleton and shell of the nomade's wigwam. It was dusk when Ambeesa entered the long centre street of this busy scene. He had journeyed many days, alone and on foot, and his mantle, and his arms, and his lofty brow were alike deeply stained with the disguising dust of the desert. A gang of Bones, with a stalking ostrich, driving before them sundry asses laden with the spoils of the chase, arrived at the same moment from the opposite direction. Rude parchment-covered quivers, well stocked 90 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. with poisoned shafts, hung negligently by their side, suspended by the tufted tail of a lion ; and with their classic bows over their wiry shoulders, the gipsy votaries of Diana advanced, swearing and blasphem- ing, toward the Eesah quarter of the strag- gling encampment. The light which gleamed through the black goat-hair awning of a Gurague slave- merchant, fell upon the features of the wild party as it passed ; and Ambeesa's heart beat high with exultation when, decorated with a dirty ostrich plume, he fancied he could recognize the very foe of whom he was in search. The archer was, in truth, a most truculent-looking knave — one who, if his visage did not strangely belie him, might have been the perpetrator of any given atrocity. The tail-fat of four Ber- bera rams incrusted his head in a perfect helmet of tallow ; and the putrid entrails of the antelope he had last slain, were slung in noisome coils about his neck, to the pollution of the atmosphere he breathed. His repulsive front displayed, through the accumulated filth of forty years, a perfect maze of mystic figures in tattooed relief, on which were imbedded amulets stitched in greasy leather ; and the distended lobes of his enormous ears were so loaded with pewter rings, that not another could have been squeezed in. A gap, consequent upon the loss of five front teeth in a recent brawl, made room for a quid of no ordinary dimensions. Two small, sunken, blear eyes, which appeared to work upon a swivel, squinted alternately, as the in- flamed balls were revealed by turns ac- cording to the employment of the wearer's sinister vision ; and on his meagre, sunken cheek yawned a seam five inches in length, which precisely corresponded with a gash known to have been inflicted by the youth's father during a certain moonless night at Errur, when a stab in the back had aroused the veteran from a deep sleep to his mortal struggle. " Stay you here, Moosa," quoth one of the bowmen, addressing this captivating hero, as they stopped before the doorway of an unfinished cabin at no great distance beyond the rover's pall — " tarry you here, and Inshdllah, we'll turn out these lazy wenches to unload the asses." The name had not been lost upon Am- beesa, who, like all of his bigot creed, placed the firmest reliance in fate. He had sworn never to return until he should have given the body of Moosa to the wild beasts, where the vultures might pick out his eyes. The object of his weary journey was by the in- terference of destiny in his favor, already within his clutches. He who murdered his sire was assuredly alone with him in a dark lane, and Aylia was without doubt his own ! " Wogerri maani, wogerri maani, ivo- gerri maani" repeated the Woeman cold- ly, as he extended his open hand toward the doomed victim in token of amity. " Wogerri, wogerri, wogerri," carelessly returned the savage thus accosted, at the same time passing his greasy fingers me- chanically over the palm presented. The same triple salutation again reiterated, was thrice returned ; and it gradually dwindled away to an assenting " um hum," in itself fully as frigid as the wearisome repetitions of inquiry had been deeply treacherous. Moosa stooped to shake the pebbles from his dilapidated sandal. His bare back was toward the Woema, for his garment had fallen from his brawny shoulder. It was enough. Muttering through his closed teeth an inaudible invocation to Allah, Am- beesa suddenly drew his creese, plunged the razor-edged blade to the very hilt into the yielding spine of his unsuspecting foe, tore the vaunting white feather from his greasy locks, spurned the prostrate carcase with his foot, spat upon the unseemly fea- tures, now distorted into the agonies of death, and fled into the wilderness. Months had elapsed, and the festive sea- son had now returned at which the Be- douins annually celebrate their w T eddings. Many a dark-eyed damsel had been led by her happy swain to the nuptial wigwam, when a gayer procession than usual was to be seen passing up the centre street of the encampment at Gaiel. Eig"ht wrinkled ma- trons led, brandishing swords and creeses with truly Amazonian gestures, w T hile they danced to a wild song in which all joined chorus to the dissonant thumping of a ket- tle-drum. The charms of the maiden bride who followed, and had been long betrothed, were screened from vulgar gaze beneath a canopy of blue calico, borne by a party of the village belles, splendid with porcelain jewelry and grease — their arms, like these of the sister graces, entwining each other's waists ; while every idle blackguard that could be mustered, swelled the nuptial train. At intervals, the music of the tambourine gave place to a shrill vocal solo, when the nymphs pirouetted in a mazy circle ; and the procession, after thus parading through the hamlet, was preceded on its return by a party of dirty urchins, bearing the dower in ornamented baskets woven of the wiry leaf of the palm. Massive ear-rings of brass and copper were among the treasures, and the much prized, though far from becoming THE BRIDE A WIDOW. 91 coif of blue calico which forms the badge of the wedded wife, had not been forgotten. Aylia was still the fairest of all the daughters of her tribe, and Ambeesa ever the foremost when the spear was thrown over the shoulder of the warrior. Happi- ness and content reigned in the rude hut. No harsh word had ruffled the existence of the young pair, and the stranger never passed the door without the ready draught of milk being proffered, or the kind word exchanged. But in accordance with the barbarous usage of the Adel Bedouin, the wife was to remain an inmate of her father's dwelling, until she should have become the mother of three children. 'T was midday in the sultry summer months, and the fiery sun poured his fiercest rays from his meridian throne. No human eye was able to endure the broad glare that pervaded the vast sandy plain of Errur, which at intervals was scoured by towering whirlwinds, imparting the aspect of a man- ufacturing town with its huge steam-en- gines at work. All animate nature shrank under the scorching heat, which had even curled the few scanty tufts of withered vegetation. The stillness of death per- vaded a desolate scene over which floated the treacherous mirage. Not a creature moved, and no sound was heard save the roar of the angry whirlwind tearing every- thing before it, as it swept in reckless wrath across the encampment, eliciting while it raged among the frail mat tenements of the location — unroofing some and filling others with dust and pebbles — a curse from the drowsy savage whose rest it had disturbed. Suddenly a shrill cry arose in the dis- tance, the well-known tocsin for the as- sembly of the men-at-arms. Electrical in its effect, every slumberer started to his feet, and each ,hut, which had for hours been silent as the tomb, poured forth its warrior, armed and ready for the fight. On the verge of the plain was descried a band of the Alia Galla driving off a troop of camels, and with the points of their spears goading the awkward animals to a grotesque gallop. Their remoteness, and the unnatural speed to which they had been urged, imparted, through the medium of the mirage, the appearance of dismem- bered animals flying in portions through the deceptive atmosphere. Now a head attached to a long neck was separated from the body, and elevated many feet above its proper place ; and now animated legs of exaggerated length could alone be perceiv- ed fast flitting over the sultry desert. Un- attached tails danced in the quivering va- por, and the entire distance was alive with fragments of men and dromedaries, which seemed to have been hurled through the air by the bursting of an exploded mine. Galla and Woema, pursuer and pursued, scoured for some hours over the sandy waste ; and it was near sunset when the pagan marauders were overtaken on the confines of their own territories. A sharp conflict ensued ; and two on each side hav- ing fallen, the booty was retaken, and the unbelievers put to flight by the sons of the Faithful. From the door of her father's wigwam, Aylia watched with inward misgivings the return of the victors ; and as she saw the bodies of the fallen borne upon the shoul- ders of their comrades, her young heart throbbed audibly ; for her newly-wedded husband was one of those who had gone forth. As her straining gaze fell upon the still gory corse of him she loved, a flood of hot tears dimmed her lustrous eyes, and uttering a piercing shriek, she sank sense- less at the threshold. Roused again to life, the bereaved girl filled the hut with her doleful cries. Death would indeed have been almost preferable to the lot ac- corded by her destiny. The property brought at his marriage by the deceased, was resumed by his grasping relatives, and the late light-hearted wife, became once again a slave under the roof of her avari- cious parent, there to lead a life of drudg- ery until another wealthy suitor should pay the dower fixed upon her charms. But the light elastic step was gone, by which Aylia had erst been distinguished above all the Woema maidens. The full black orbs had lost their wonted lustre, and the radi- ant smile no longer beamed over her faded features. The orphan pledge of her first love clung to a widowed breast, and the heart that beat beneath was broken by the untimely fate of the brave youth Ambeesa. CHAPTER XXXIII. THE ONE-EYED FAMILY. HAO, AND FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE HAWASH. The Arab chieftain of the Foudthli, of whom flying parties still infest the deserta of Aden, is renowned for the possession of two thumbs upon the dexter hand — a proud distinction by which his ancestors have been recognized from time immemo- rial. Sheikh Oomer Buttoo ibn Ali, akil of the Tukha'i'el, who occupy the country from the oasis of Yoor Erai'n Maroo to Hao, a few miles eastward of the Hawash, 92 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. f lories in the loss of a sinister eye ; and e is reputed to have forfeited it by an hereditary visitation, which through every generation has disfigured his ancestors in like manner ; — no single head of the illus- trious line having been known to possess two eyes ! This venerable Polyphemus visited the camp after 'dark, attended by his hopeful son and heir, who has already qualified for the succession ; and after re- ceiving each a piece of blue calico in the clandestine manner which these savages prefer to a more orthodox public presenta- tion, they slunk away, well satisfied with their booty. A group of slatternly females belonging to the Ittoo Galla had sauntered carelessly into camp with ox-hides for sale, and to- bacco, the produce of their own high hills ; and their abrupt departure as the evening shades drew on had led to suspicions ane, nt the object of their visit. At the going down of the sun therefore a caution w r as promulgated by the ras, enjoining a vigi- lant look out for Galla and wild beasts ; and his earnestness might almost have led to the anticipation of a rush of wild eques- trians through the encampment, or a charge of hungry lions from the adjacent gloomy thicket, before the termination of the first watch. But the cry of " wolf!" had been too often dinned into every ear ; and al- though both elders and escort had sworn that this night at least should be one of wakefulness, no surprise was elicited by the disappearance of their bushy heads, one after another, beneath the mats — an example which was speedily followed by all the Europeans off duty, as the rain be- gan again to tumble in torrents, " Et veterem in limo rante cecinere querelam." The fear of attracting the " Buddoo," as the much-dreaded marauders of every class were gencrically designated, still invaria- bly brought an order which there was no gainsaying, to strike and pack the tent be- fore sunset, however threatening the as- pect of the weather. But the despotism of the ras was light in comparison with the tyranny exercised by his unaccommoda- ting train. At whatever hour of the night the arbitrary mandate to load might be pro- mulgated, it was required that the bedding of the whole party should forthwith be de- livered at the quarters of the arrogant dri- ver to whom it pertained, since he declin- ed making his camel walk to the spot. Moreover, the delay of a few minutes was sufficient to condemn it to be left on the ground, notwithstanding that preparations have often occupied two hours, whieh might as well have been devoted to rest ; and this wanton curtailment of sleep was doubly felt after the heavy nocturnal duty that devolved upon all. The route on the 9th led across the flat of Halikdiggi Kabir, a continuation of the Moolu plain, extending from the Azboti and Ittoo ranges to the mountains Aiulloo and Abida. Twelve miles in breadth, it presents one monotonous alluvial level, treeless, but thickly covered with grass, interspersed with dwarf shrubs, and en- livened by herds of the elegant w/iorr, among which the secretary-bird occasion- ally strutted in native dignity. Baezas and zebras, too, were decried on the hills which bound the flat ; and a luckless leop- ard being detected in the act of stealing across the expanse, the savage group pur- sued like demons from every quarter, and having presently hooted and hunted the terrified animal into a bush, transfixed his carcass incontinently with thirty spears. The whole landscape was alive during this animated scene which scarcely occu- pied a minute ; and in due process of time the panting warriors rejoined the caravan, their necks, spears, and shields adorned with strips of the victim's tail, while he who by dint of superior wind and fleet- ness had drawn the first blood, was by his comrades publicly invested with the spot- ted spoils that he had won. The appear- ance of the party on their return, accom- panied by a stray horseman who had for- tuitously joined in the chase, gave birth in the bosom of the ras to an apprehension that the Ittoo Galla were descending upon the caravan. The ranks were accordingly closed, and the Europeans again took post on the flank to be assailed, until a nearer approach revealed in the savage band the features of friends. A descent of thirty feet over a narrow tongue of land, led into the valley of Halik- diggi Zughir, styled by the AdaVel the Great Hawash — its breadth being about two and a half mile?, and the bed a perfect level, covered with fine grass, on which grazed a troop of wild asses. Bounded throughout the serpentine progress by par- allel banks of corresponding height and appearance, the hollow would seem to ex- tend from the mountains of the Ittoo Galla north to the Aiulloo volcano. It wears the aspect of having been once the channel of a considerable stream — that of the Ha- wash perhaps, which river may not impro- bably have been diverted into its present course at the period when the extensive volcanic tract around Mount Abida was in a state of activity, and when subterranean THE MYRRH TREE— 3ATA MOHAMMAD. 93 influence must have caused extraordinary revolutions in the entire aspect of the country. Here occurred the last specimen seen of the kurbeta, the myrrh-bearing tree * of which two varieties are found abundantly over all the barren hill sides, from the Doomi valley to the borders of the Hawash. That producing the better description of the gum resin, is a dwarf shrub, with deeply serrated crisp leaves of a dull green ; where- as the other, yielding a substance more like balm than myrrh, attains a height of ten feet, and has bright shining leaves. From any bruise or incision inflicted, the " hofali " flows copiously in the form of a milkyjuice, possessing a perceptible acidity, which either evaporates or becomes chem- ically changed when the gum forms. Left ungathered, it becomes hard with the loss of the volatile oil, and thus crumbles away ; but if the vrouad be cleared frequently, a very large quantity may be collected du- ring the seasons, which occur in January when the buds appear after the first rain, and again when the seeds are ripe, in March. Three ounces of the finest myrrh and nne of dross, may thus be obtained during the year, and the secreting vessels lying immediately under the epidermis, a very slight bend in a branch makes it flow freely. The wandering shepherds either tear off one of the lower limbs, or so bruise the stem with a heavy stone as to retard the growth of the tree ; but every new sprout is spontaneously covered with gum, although in a somewhat more fluid state. Repeated injuries in the same spot lead to the forma- tion of an ever-filling cavity, and "The mirrhe sweete bleeding in the bitter wounde," is transferred by each passer-by to the hol- low boss of his shield, to be exchanged for a handful of tobacco with the next slave- dealer met on the caravan road. But the Danakil are not altogether ignorant of the virtues of the drug, and invariably recom- mended it for those horses that were una- ble to proceed from heat and exhaustion. It has been seen that from Yoor Erain Maroo, an accession to the escort was re- ceived in the person of the hopeful son of Datah Mohammad, co-chief of the Sidi Habroo. This insatiable vagabond, a wor- thy scion of his stock, had received from the hand of Nature an aspect that could only have belonged to a finished cut-throat. Deeply scarred' with the small-pox, his bloated half-shaven muzzle peered through * Balsamodendron Myrrha.J a tangled web of grease-clotted hair, like a drowsy owl out of an ivy bush. He pre- sented a truly striking picture of man in the natural state. Although never without a new quid in his mouth, and another half masticated behind either ear, he passed hours of each day in importuning for more " timboo" of which he was the most pas- sionate admirer ; and it was his undeviat- ing rule never to pass a white face without repeating in an authoritative tone the tri- syllable " Irreboot" in token of his deter- mination to add still farther to his stock in hand of yarn-needles, which already out- numbered the quills of the porcupine. Firmly persuaded that every mule with the party had been purchased for his espe- cial riding, and equally convinced that his presence was indispensable to the general safety, he appropriated the very first that came within his reach, changing it as often as he thought proper, and never leaving it without a galled back. If not a professor of equitation, he was at all events devoted to the science, and it was with a fiendish scowl indeed, that while crossing Halik- diggi Zughir, he received an order to dis- mount from a steed which he had selected out of the drove for the purpose of riding down an oryx. " Tuwwaddee /" " attend," he mumbled sulkily as he thrust away the animal with the butt of his spear — " Tuw- waddee ! I am a great man's son, and have no intention of walking. If I am not to have a horse, you may even settle as best you can with my father's Bedouins." Mules, horses, and camels, in considera- ble numbers, were abandoned before the termination of this tedious and sultry march — fatigue, want of water, and a lack of forage, having reduced all to such positive skeletons that they walked with difficulty. Ascending three successive terraces, each of fifty feet elevation, the road finally wound into the confined and waterless valley of Hao, famous for the number of parties that have at various times been surprised and cut up by the neighboring Galla — " For, with hot rapine fir'd, ensanguin'd man Is here become the lion of the plain And worse." Not a month had elapsed since three ill-starred individuals of a Tajura caravan, impatient to satisfy burning thirst, hurry- ing in advance of the main body, were cut off by a band of Galla horsemen, who had lain concealed behind the rocks immediate- ly above the present encamping ground, and who, after mutilating the bodies, bore off their barbarous trophies in triumph. The dale hard by had only two nights pre- 94 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. viously to the arrival of the present party, formed the scene of a skirmish between the Ittoo and the inhabitants of the plain, when the bodies of twenty of the former and nine of the latter were left to the vul- tures and hyenas. Every hill and valley in this direction could, in fact, tell its in- dividual tale of bloodshed and slaughter. The wild barbarians keep a constant look out to pounce upon any wanderers weak- er than themselves, and few are the na- tives to be seen who bear not on their per- sons some indelible mark of hand to hand combat. Fatigued by the long march, the Dana- kil were all fast asleep within their tem- porary sheds, a few of the drivers excepted, who tended their browsing camels among the adjacent thorns. In an instant the whole valley rang with the cry to assem- ble at arms, and inconceivable was the confusion that ensued. Many of the es- cort, only half awake, in rushing forth over- threw portions of their dens upon others who were still inside. Warrior clashed against warrior, shield against shield. The rocky hill-side was presently a living mass of half-clad savages, panting up the steep acclivity, when a few Galla scouts, whose sudden appearance on the plain had caused the alarm, were perceived mounting their steeds ; and, understanding themselves to be the objects of these warlike preparations, they precipitately sped their way. From the summit of the height was ob- tained an exhilarating prospect over the dark lone valley of the long-looked-for Ha- wash. The- -course of the shining river was marked by a dense belt of trees and verdure, which stretches toward the base of the great mountain range, whereof the cloud-capped cone that frowns over the capital of Shoa forms the most conspicu- ous feature. Although still far distant, the ultimate destination of the embassy seemed almost to have been gained ; and none had an idea of the length of time that must elapse ere his foot should press the soil of Ankober. A day of intense heat was as usual followed by a heavy fall of rain, which, owing to the unaccommodating arrangement again peremptorily exacted, of striking the tent at sunset, thoroughly drenched the whole party ; but before final- ly drawing the mat over his sleepy head, the ras el kafilah mounted a cone which stood in the centre of the compact circle, and proclaimed, in a loud voice to all, a night of light sleep and watchfulness. CHAPTER XXXIV. PASSAGE OF THE HAW ASH. Numerous were the apprehensions now in agitation relative to the state of the formidable river in advance, whose shallow stream, so easily forded during the season of drought, was not unreasonably conjec- tured to be swollen by the recent rains. Second of the rivers of Abyssinia, and ri- sing in the very heart of Ethiopia, at an elevation of eight thousand feet above the sea, which it never reaches, the Hawash is fed at long intervals by niggard tribu- taries from the high bulwarks of Shoa and\ Efat, and flows like a great artery through the arid and inhospitable plains of the Adaiel, green and wooded throughout its long course, until finally absorbed in the | lagoons at Aussa ; and the canopy of fleecy clouds, which, as the day dawned, hung thick and heavy over the lofty blue peaks beyond, gave sad presage of the deluge that was pouring between the ver- dant banks from the higher regions of its source. Passing along the face of the murderous hill, which is of wacke formation, the road descended by several sloping terraces, to the level valley through which the river winds. At first thinly wooded, the soil was covered with tall rank grass, which, in consequence of the perpetual incursions of the Galla, grew in all its native luxu- riance, uncropped whether by flock or herd. But as the path wound on, gum-bearing acacias and other forest trees increased both in size and number— the jungle and undergrowth, teeming with guinea-fowl, which rose clamorously at every step, waxed thicker and thicker — groves of waving tamarisk, ringing to the voice of the bell-bird, flanked every open glade, where- on lay traces of recent inundation : and the noble trees which towered above them from the banks of the Hawash, gave evi- dence in their shattered branches of the most ponderous of terrestrial mammalia. Vegetation having here assumed a lux- uriance known to none of the joyless and unproductive regions hitherto traversed, it is with some difficulty that the pilgrim, anxious to behold the rare phenomenon of a running stream, forces his way through the dense thickets, which, until the foot touches the very brink of the precipitous bank, so completely screen the silent river from view, that its very existence might almost be questioned. But after a perse- vering struggle, farther progress was at length arrested by a deep volume of tux- THE HAW ASH— FLYING BRIDGE. 95 bid water, covered with drift-wood, which rolled at the rate of some three miles an hour, between steep clayey walls twenty- five feet in height, bounding a mere break through the mud and sand. The breadth of the channel fell short of sixty yards, and the flood was not yet at its maximum ; but its depth and violence, added to the broad belt of tamarisk and acacia, inter- laced by large creepers and parasites, which hems in both sides, promised to offer much difficulty and delay in the coming passage. Pensive willows that drooped mournfully over the troubled current, were festooned with recent drift, hanging many feet above the level of the abrupt banks ; and this appearance, no less than the rubbish scat- tered over the borders, fully proved the assertion of the natives that the water had recently been out, to the overflowing of the adjacent flat country for many miles. The Ha wash, here upward of two thou- sand two hundred feet above the ocean, farms in this direction the nominal boun- dary of the dominions of the King of Shoa. Izhak was therefore strongly urg- ed to dispatch a courier in advance, who might apprise his majesty of the near ap- proach of the British embassy. But from some latent and sinister motive of his own, the proposal was again negatived, ag it had before frequently been, upon the grounds of the dangers to be apprehended on the road. These, according to his showing, rendered it impossible for a sin- gle messenger to venture on so rash an undertaking, notwithstanding that Ahmed Mohammad, the Dankali who had been the bearer of the letter dispatched to Shoa from Tanjiira, and who was still with the caravan, had so recently passed twice in Bafety over this identical route. As a measure of precaution against in- undation, the camp was formed upon the summit of a small stony eminence, con- siderably above high-water mark ; and several armed Bedouins were presently lounging and prying about the tent, to the great annoyance and discomfiture of the ras el kafilah. ^hose fellows call them- selves Debeni," he remarked, " and will not commit murder wantonly ; but the villains are thieves in grain, and will steal whatsoever they can lay their hands upon. They have no business here." Many energetic remonstrances touching the impropriety of the obtrusion, produced not the smallest effect upon these obstinate savages ; and finding that they continued to laugh him to scorn, and to set his boasted authority at defiance, the old man finally requested that a musket might be fired over their heads — a measure which quickly brought about the desired decamp- ment. The smell of gunpowder is intol- erable to every Dankali. The bravest of the brave slide off with a growl and a sulky look, if a gun be but touched in their presence ; and an unexpected dis- charge, as on this occasion, when a knot* has collected, causes every man to start upon his feet, and, with a muttered curse, to bring his spear to the rest. The residue of the day was devoted by the camel-drivers to the preparation of rafts for the transport of the baggage, and the working-party was still at the river, when the Adai'el conch sounded to arms, and the shrill war-whoop again summoned all to the rescue. Great was the confu- sion that ensued, and light-footed warriors were to be seen scampering down every avenue, armed with spear and shield ; but the cry proved to have been raised in con- sequence of a disaster that had befallen one of the camels. Too lazy to loosen the cord which fettered the fore-legs of the animal, the stupid owner had driven it, thus crippled, down the steep slippery bank to the water's edge, when, as might have been anticipated, it was swept away by the strong current, without being able to make one struggle for extrication. At sundown the caravan was closely packed within a stout thorn-fence, serving as a partial protection against the wild beasts and plunderers with which the dense thicket is infested — its endless depths being so entangled and interwoven that no eye could penetrate the gloom. The moonless night was passed in ex- treme discomfort, owing to a deluge of rain which commenced early, and fell in- cessantly for many hours. Deafening thunder pealed in startling claps overhead, and broad sheets of fire, lighting up the entire face of the landscape at short inter- vals, for a moment only disclosed the sav- age loneliness of the wild spot, which was the next instant shrouded in pitchy dark- ness. With the dawning day, preparations were made for crossing the river on ten frail rafts which had already been launch- ed — transverse layers of drift-wood rudely lashed together, being rendered sufficiently buoyant, by the addition of numerous in- flated hides and water-skins, to support two camel loads. The sharp creeses of the Danakil had removed many of the overtopping boughs, interlaced with creep- ers, which impeded transit toward the point selected for the passage, and in the course of a few hours every portion of the 96 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. baggage had been deposited at the water's edge. Casting off his garments, Mohammad Ali, always the foremost in cases of diffi- culty and danger, now seized the end of a rope betwixt his teeth, and, plunging into the river, swam with it to the opposite bank, where it was belayed, upon the prin- ciple of the flying bridge, to an overhang- ing willow — a guy which connected it with each raft serving to counteract the violence of the stream, which, in spite of the heavy rain, had fallen upward of a foot during the night. Raiment was now discarded by every Dankali, and the work commenced in right earnest ; but difficult and laborious indeed was the task before them. The water trickled over their greasy limbs until a late hour of the even- ing, and the utmost exertions only suc- ceeded in accomplishing the transfer of the endless train to the western bank be- fore nightfall, with the loss of three beasts of burden drowned, and sundry firelocks sunk to the bottom. This latter disaster arose from the spon- taneous going to pieces of one of the rude- ly-lashed rafts, when one of the clumsy followers became entangled in the wreck, and but for the exertions of the son of Ali Abi would inevitably have been lost. The fair Hasseinee was among those who were thus cast away in the middle of the deep waters ; but hers was not the person to sink, and floating like a Naiad on the sur- face, with long raven locks streaming over her fat shoulders, the nymph appeared to be in her native element, and was soon shaking her wet petticoat on the opposite shore. The baggage being of necessity divided, and the whole of the native escort as well as the camel-drivers employed in loading and navigating the rafts, it was deemed prudent, in addition to an ostentatious dis- play of rifles on both sides, to make liberal disbursements of blue calico, in order to purchase the neutrality of the Bedouins, who infest the borders of the river. On the division of the party, some of the Adaiel females being separated from their lords, a characteristic trait of Ibrahim Shehem Abli was elicited by the proposal for solution of the old riddle of the three jealous husbands, with their wives, who found on the banks of a rapid stream which they were desirous of crossing, a boat that would contain only three persons, whereas each telt unwilling to abandon his fair partner to the mercy of the other. After puzzling for some time, without being able to arrange the transit in a satisfactory manner, "Murhabba!'' he exclaimed ; " had I been one of the same party, I should soon have settled the diffi- culty by cutting the throats of the two jeal- ous rascals, and taking all their women to myself." The stream of the Ha wash being ex- ceedingly thick and troubled, from the dis- tance it had rolled betwixt clayey banks, it was with much satisfaction that a pond ot wholesome water, styled Dubbtlli, was dis- covered, divided from the river by a narrow wooded neck of land, one hundred and fifty yards across. Steep shelving walls strewed with shells and the reliquiae of hippopotami, environed this singular basin, which ap- peared to be fathomless, and to measure a mile and a half in circumference. Lofty trees, in a wintry dress, cast their deep shadow over the brink ; and while the stems of many were partially immersed, the leafless branches of some were loaded with storks' nests, and the shattered limbs of others presented tokens of the giant strength of the elephant, no less than of the terrible wrath of lightning and storm. Corresponding tongues abutting from the opposite banks, divide the expanse into two equal bays. A group of wild Bedouins watered their camels on the shore, and in the centre Behemoth rolled his unwieldy carcass to the surface amid floating croco- diles — protruding his droll snout, which glistened in slimy ugliness, to blow ever and anon a snort that might be heard at the distance of a mile. A two-ounce ball, duly hardened with antimony, took effect in the skull of one of the boldest with a crash that was not to be mistaken ; but although the monster went down, leaving a gallon of blood to denote the disaster that had befal- len him, he had temporarily disappeared j and by the incredulous Daiiakil the assu- rance was received with a sneering shake of the head, that his carcass must infallibly be found floating in the morning. Much difficulty had been experienced in bringing the horses and mules across the river, and one obstinate donkey, but too well aware of its inability to swim, having pointedly refused to take the water, was towed over by main strength at the end of a rope. Inflated skins kept the animal afloat ; but the stubborn head sinking be- low the surface, the poor beast landed with sides distended almost to bursting by too copious draughts of muddy water. His master, an aged washerman from Hindos- tan, loving Neddy as the apple of his eye, in the simplicity of his old heart, adopted the prescription of some wag who had fa- cetiously recommended suspension by the heels, in order to try the ancient discipline THE DEAD HIPPOPOTAMUS. 97 of the Humane Society for the recovery of drowned mortals. A fit of apoplexy was the result, and the donkey expired under the lancet. Followed by the lamentations of the dis- consolate owner, the carcass was dragged some twenty yards beyond the limits of the encamping ground ; and no sooner had the dark night thrown a shroud over it, than the foul scavengers of the forest assembled in numbers round the prey, and regardless of a blazing watch-fire that had been kin- dled to avert the visits of the monarch of the wilderness, commenced their revels with the demoniacal laugh indicative of a right happy mood. While the rain de- scended in pitiless torrents, a continual chuckle of the highest merriment, which ran through all the various notes of a clear throat, resounded afar amid the crunching of bones and munching of flesh — a deeper growl from some larger beast of prey, now and then varying the infernal harmony, to be followed by another ringing laugh as of a whole legion of devils. Vivid flashes of lightning played over the scene of this mid- night carnival ; the violent snapping of branches in the adjacent forest proclaimed the nocturnal foray of the elephant and hippopotamus ; the loud roar and the start- ling snort were neither wanting to com- plete the concert of the wild Hawash ; and long ere the morning dawned, the place of the carcass knew it not, every vestige, even to the skull, having found a sepulchre in the maw of "the laughing hyena." CHAPTER XXXV. WADY AZBOTI. ARRIVAL OF A SPY FROM THE ABYSSINIAN MOUNTAINS. " The robi is not dead," was the first falsehood that greeted the ear when day- light had returned. To have told the truth on this occasion, must have redounded to the personal advantage of the informant, but he had nobly upheld the national char- acter at the sacrifice of a handful of his much-loved tobacco. Repairing to the margin of the lake, the freckled pink sides of a defunct hippopotamus were to be seen high above the surface, as the distended carcass floated like a monstrous buoy at anchor. It had become entangled among the tall tamarisks that rose through the shallow water near the brink, but hawsers were carried out with all diligence, and with the aid of the rudder-like tail, the colossus was towed to shore, and landed among the mud, under the acclamations of the assembled caravan. " Where the carcass is, there shall the eagles be gathered together." A formi- dable band of " Bones" were already squat- ted at a respectful distance, to watch the progress of events, and no sooner had the teeth been hewn out than they laid aside their bows and quivers, and having stripped the thick hide from off the ribs, attacked the mountain of flesh with the vigor of a South African horde. Donkeys and wo- men were laden with incredible dispatch, and staggering under huge flaps of meat, the archers had soon left the scene of operations. Two reservoirs, each lying at the distance of a musket-shot, had meanwhile been visited — the one a sul- phuric basin of considerable extent, the other a vast sheet of water, embosomed in trees, dotted over with wood-clothed islets, and teeming with hippopotami. But this was neutral ground ; and the fears of the Danakil conjuring into existence a host of lurking foes, the period allowed for in- vestigation was brief. Bidding adieu with light hearts to the muddy Hawash, the party resumed its march so soon as the camel furniture had become sufficiently dry ; and skirting- the Dubbelli Lake, from the waters of which Behemoth blew a parting salute, passed the Bedouin hamlet of Muiku-kuyu in the Dofah district, to a fourth pond bearing the euphonous title of Ailabello. Prettily situated in a secluded green hol- low, and presenting about the same cir- cumference as its neighbor, below which it is considerably depressed, this pool re- sembles a circular walled cistern, and is obviously the basin of an old crater. Its waters, alkaline, bitter, and strongly sul- phureous, even to the smell, receive con- stant accessions from a hot mineral well at the brink, and possessing the singular detergent property of bleaching the filthiest cloth, many of the Dauakil were, for once, to be seen in flaunting white togas. Thence the road lay over a grassy plain, covered with volcanic sand and ashes, and shut in by cones of trivial altitude, forming another field of extinct craters, many very perfect, and each environed by its indi- vidual zone ; — while the circumjacent country, embracing a diameter of eight miles, exhibited through the superincum- bent soil, tracts of jet-black lava. Apprehensions being entertained of the non-existence of pools at the station suited for the encampment, still some miles in advance, a detour was made from the main road to Le Ado, " the White Water** 98 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. a very extensive lake, at. which the skins were replenished and the thirst of the animals slaked. A belt of high acacia jungle embosomed this noble expanse, which exceeded two miles in diameter, the glassy surface in parts verdant with sheets of the lotus in full flower, and liter- ally covered with aquatic fowls. Geese, mallard, whistling teal, herons, and flamin- goes, with a new species of the parra, were screaming in all directions, as they winged their flight from the point invaded, where a party of Bedouin shepherdesses deposed to having seen a troop of elephants bathing not half an hour before — the nu- merous prints of their colossal feet re- maining in testimony, sunk fresh and heavy on the moist sands. Prior to crossing the Ha wash, the only sheep observed were the ovis aries lati- caudala, or Hejaz lamb, with sable head and neck, thick fatty tail, and fleece com- posed of hair instead of wool. This species had now, to the westward of the river, given place to the larger Abyssinian breed, with huge pendulous appendages of truly preposterous size, encumbered with fat, and vibrating to the animal's progress. Parti-colored goats, armed with long wrinkled horns, still diversified the flocks, which were uniformly attended by small dogs with fox-like heads, spotted yellow and white, and evidently high in favor with their dark mistresses. Several of these females wore around the neck large tinkling brazen bells, bor- rowed from the collar of an Abyssinian mule, and forming a very suitable accom- paniment to the massive fabrications of pewter and copper which loaded their ears. Their long black tresses were braided into an infinity of streamers, each resembling the lash of a schoolboy's whip, and various most ingenious tattooed devices scarred their arms, temples, and bosoms. By the beaux of the caravan, unqualified homage was paid to certain coquettes, who carried milk-jars curiously wrought of palm-leaves, and studded with manifold cowrie shells. To the backs of sundry weird harridans were strapped skins containing sour curds, which attracted flies in the tens of millions usually seen around the molasses at a Banian's stall. No attempt was made to disturb those that clustered in their blear- inflamed eyes ; and the swarms collected about the wrinkled corners of the mouth, •were only put to flight when the hand was applied to second the wonted exclamation •of surprise at the appearance of a white face, " Nubbee Mohammadoo!" Numerous wigwams peeped through the extensive forest of aged camel-thorns, which borders on Le Ado, and eventually debouches upon a succession of barren plains, covered with herds of antelope. Two rough stone inclosures by the way- side were surmounted by poles, from which dangled the heads of as many lions, dilapi- dated by time, although still enveloped in the skin ; and said to have been speared on this spot, many years before by the Bedouins, who exalted these trophies in commemoration of the deed. Immediately beyond this point lay the encamping ground at Wady Azboti, where numerous shallow pools had been filled by the recent rain, but where the ill-starred cattle were compelled to content them- selves with water only, not a vestige of grass or green herb remaining in the vicinity. It had, in fact, now become a proverb, that these two essential materials to existence could never be found in the Adel wilderness in one and the same place. Vast flights of locusts, which had assisted to lay the country bare, still carrying deso- lation in their progress, were shaping their destructive course toward Abyssinia. They quite darkened the air at the moment that the caravan halted ; and a host of vora- cious adjutants wheeled high above the dense cloud, at one moment bursting with meteor-like velocity through the serried phalanx, and at the next stalking over the field to fill their capacious maws with the victims which their long scythe-fashioned pinions had swept incontinently from the sky. The groves around Azboti afforded a welcome supply of bustard, partridges, and guinea-fowl, together with mhorr, and pig- my antelope ; and on the return of the heavily-loaded Nimrods to the tent, infinite diversion was found in the horror depicted on the physiognomy of the warlike leader of the Hy Somauli band, whose old-fash- ioned bob wig, quaint gait, and antiquated comicalities, had justly invested him with the sobriquet of " Doctor Syntax." The professor of natural history was as usual busily engaged in the preparation of cabi- net specimens, when the old oddity advan- ced to see what was going on ; and as the bodies of beetles and locusts were subject- ed to the process of toasting over the fire, his droll features were distorted by lines, which revealed plainly enough an inward conviction entertained, that the operation was none other than culinary, and that the hideous insects were to be eaten. But the war-whoop, without which few days ever drew to a close, had aroused the doctor from his cogitations ; and at the ADEL WAR-DANCE— TORNADO. 99 head of his men, he was presently in hot pursuit of a band of ruffians, who had cleverly contrived to drive off a camel per- taining to the kafiiah. Returning with the booty after a long chase, the exploit was celebrated by the war-dance, which for an hour kept the camp in a fierce uproar. Formed in a circle, the excited warriors crouched low to the ground, as they stamp- ed vis-a-vis, and howled with the utmost fury. Then rising with one accord, they brandished their spears aloft, and vaulted franticly in the air, through a maze of in- tricate figures. Next arrayed in line, a brave sprung ever and anon to the front, and striding up and down with mincing gait, went through some strange gesticu- lations and contortions, as he recited the prowess of the clan, and urged it to future deeds of valor — the clash of spear and shield responding at every pause, while the wild chorus pealed along the ranks. Con- fusion now ensued : the band was engaged in a pantomimic conflict. Savage after savage, rolling his eyeballs, sprang, pan- ther-like, across the loins of his nearest neighbor, ani" clinging fast with his heels, tightly clasped his erect opponent with the muscles of his legs. Creeses flashed brightly in the air ; mock wounds were inflicted, and the form of dividing the windpipe having been duly gone through, long and loud arose, with the renewed dance, triumphant strains of " Awey bi- rooah ! awey birooah /" " I have slain my foe ! I have slain my foe !" Toward the close of the day, which was hot and muggy under the steam that arose from the saturated soil, a Bedouin rode consequentially into the camp ; and, after making his observations, departed even as he had come, without deigning an expla- nation of any sort. Attention was particu- larly attracted to this prying stranger, from the circumstance of his gray steed being branded on flank and wither with the Ethiopian sign of the cross. Delivering no message, although he was conjectured to be a retainer of Wulasma Mohammad, the abogaz or cusios of the frontier of EfAt, whose post was now not distant more than twenty miles, the mysterious de- meanor of this spy did not fail to strength- en a report, which had long been in circu- lation among the mischievous Danakil, that at the court of Shoa, the British were far from being regarded in the light of wel- come visitors ; and further, that an armed f>arty was in readiness to oppose entrance nto the kingdom — a rumor which, how- ever improbable, was unfortunately further supported by the extraordinary and unac- countable fact of no sort of recognition having, up to this period, been vouchsafed by his most gracious majesty the king. Rising tier above tier to the supremely soaring peak of Mamrat, " the Mother of Grace," with her doomed head ever can- opied in clouds, the lofty mountains which fortify the royal dominions, now shot like giant castles from the sandy plain, the most conspicuous features in the landscape. Volcanic impediments, such as had beset the heretofore weary path, had at length finally ceased; but the glowing sulphur hills of Sullala, reared their fantastic spires on the verge of the monotonous ex- panse ; and high among the more vene- rable witnesses to the troubled lowlands, the position of Ankober was discernible to the naked eye, with the steep Chaka range stretching beyond at still greater elevation. The luxuriant verdure which clothed the rugged sides of the nearer slopes, while it contrasted strongly with the aridity of the barren tracts at their base, indicated the presence of the autumnal rains ; and hereof further evidence was afforded in the low grumbling of frequent thunder, echoing like distant artillery among the serrated summits, as the heavy black clouds at intervals drew their smoky man- tle across the scene, and veiled the mon- sters from sight. The departure of the silent spy was fol- lowed bf the arrival of a most boisterous visitor from the highlands. The hazy sun, shorn of his bright beams, and looming a dull fiery globe in the dense mist, had no sooner disappeared in wrath, than a furious whirlwind tory along the desert plain, and during the gloomy twilight, the storm, which had been cradled amid the mighty mountains, descended in desolation, like an angry giant from his keep. Black masses of cloud, rolling impetu- ously along the steep acclivities, settled at length over the face of the waste, for a time shrouding the very earth in its dark dank embrace, only to render more striking the contrast to the dazzling light which in another moment had succeeded. Brilliant corruscations blazed and scintillated in every quarter of the fervid heavens, hiss- ing and spluttering through the heavy fog, or darting like fiery serpents along the sur- face of the ground — at one instant awfully revealing the towering peaks that frowned far in the distance — at the next flashing in a hot sulphury flame through the centre of the encampment. Meanwhile the deep roll of thunder con- tinued without a moment's intermission, the prolonged growl of each startling clap 100 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. varying ever as it receded in a fitful change of intonation ; while the wailing of the blast, accompanied by the sharp rattle of hail, and the impetuous descent of torrents of rain, completed the horrors of a tempest which, now at its height, careered madly over the unbroken plain. The soil had soon swallowed the deluge to overflowing. Muddy rivulets poured through every quar- ter of the flooded bivouac ; and the heavy tarpaulins, which had afforded some tem- porary shelter, proving of little further avail, the shivering but still watchful party were exposed during many dismal hours that ensued to all the merciless fury of this unaDpeasable hurricane. CHAPTER XXXVI. VALLEY OF KOKAl. HOSTILITIES OF WTJL- ASMA MOHAMMAD. A cool cloudy morning succeeding to this dreary, boisterous and uncomfortable night, the caravan was in motion before eunrise across the uninteresting plain of Azboti, in parts completely swamped, and covered toward its borders with one in- terminable sheet of the aloe and lilium, growing beneath spreading acacias upon a gravelly soil. Then commenced a belt of hammocks, formed by prominences abut- ting from the high land of Abyssinia — a succession of hill and dale, thickly wooded with a variety of timber, and still clothed with an undergrowth of the wild aloe, through which wary herds of baeza thread- ed their way. The road soon entered the pebbly bed of a mountain stream, running easterly between precipitous basaltic cliffs toward the Hawash ; but although such torrents of rain had fallen the preceding night, no water was discovered in the wooded wady of Kokai, until reaching Dathara, nearly thirteen miles from the last encampment, where the party partook of the first crystal brook that had occurred during the entire weary journey from the sea-coast. Three thousand feet above the ocean, with an invigorating breeze and a cloudy sky, the climate of this principal pass into Southern Abyssinia, was that of a fine summer's day in England, rather than of the middle of July between the tropics. Here for the first time during the pilgrim- age, the tent was erected under the shade of a wide-spread ing tamarind , which, among many other trees of noble growth, graced the sequestered spot. Above the surround- ing foliage the long white roofs of many of the royal magazines were visible, perch- ed high on the blue mountain side. In the forked branches overhead were piled hay- stack-looking nests of gigantic dimensions, thatched with every attention to neatness and comfort — the small aperture left by the feathered architect turned in every instance to the eastward, and carefully secured from the weather ; and perched on every twig, an assemblage of strange birds displayed their gay glittering plumage, or filled the cool air with melodious song. But from the summit of an adjacent ba- saltic knoll, which was ascended toward the close of day, there burst upon the de- lighted gaze a prospect more than ever alluring of the Abyssinian Alps. Hill rose above hill, clothed in the most luxuriant and vigorous vegetation. Mountain tow- ered over mountain in a smiling chaos of disorder ; and the soaring peaks of the most remote range threw their hoary heads, sparkling with a white mantle of hail, far into the cold azure sky. Villages and ^hamlets embosomed in dark groves of ever- greens were grouped in Arcadian repose. Rich fields of every hue chequered the deep lone valley ; and the sun, bidding a diur- nal farewell to his much-loved plains of the east, shot a last stream of golden light, va- ried as the hues of the Iris, over the min- gled beauties of wild woodland scenery, and the labors of the Christian husbandman. No delegate with greetings from the ne- goos awaiting the British embassy, and the frontier town of Farri, where caravans are received by his majesty's officers, being now only five miles distant, a letter was prepared, of which Mohammad Ali volun- teered to be the bearer. In signifying gra- cious acquiescence to this arrangement, the ras el kafilah gravely intimated that the escort of Hy Somauli spearmen, furnished at Killulloo by Ibrahim ibn Hame'i'do, de- clined permitting the departure of the son of Ali Abi, until they should have received the sum at which they were pleased to es- timate their services. Little reason exist- ing to be satisfied with the vigilance of this band of warriors, not one of the component members whereof, Doctor Syntax inclusive, had adopted the plan proposed by the poet for lengthening the days of existence by stealing a few hours from the night, com- pliance to the full extent of the exorbitant demand had previously been evaded. But as Izhak, in whom the truth was not, now falsely asserted and maintained that the akil had taken his personal security for the sum, and as it was obviously of the last importance that arrival on the frontier THE ABOGAZ OF THE FRONTIER. 101 should be timely reported, the money was reluctantly paid, and the courier set forth on his journey. Rain was again ushering in the early hours of the night, when the unpleasant intelligence arrived thata certain Wulasma Mohammad was the delinquent, and that he had contrived effectually to thwart the intentions of his royal master. The king had commanded that his British visitors should be received on the western bank of the Ha wash by an escort of honor. Under the commander-in-chief of the body-guard, three hundred matchlockmen had been for this purpose detached from the troops on service with his majesty, and had actually reached Farri, whence the jealous Moslem had dared to send them back upon the ri- diculous pretext of being unable to obtain any tidings of the expected Franks. This important functionary, in addition to his office of state-jailer, is the hereditary abogaz of the Mohammadan population of Argobba on the east of Shoa, and the na- ture of his government exalts him in the eyes of all to the importance of a king. With the title of wulasma — a word of uncertain derivation, known to Ludolf, the great historian of Abyssinia, who styles the dignitary " Pro rex of Efat" — he possesses unbounded influence over the frontier, his immediate duties being to preserve amica- ble relations with the Adaiel occupying the plain of the Ha. wash, and to protect kafi- lahs and merchants arriving from the inde- pendent principality of Hurrur, or from the coast of Tajilra. His functions as keeper of the state prison secure for him the re- spect of all, Christians as well as Islams, who have the fear of a dungeon before their eyes ; and although numerous abogasoch or wulasmoch, governors of small detach- ed provinces, share his power, the name and influence of all are dim under the light that glares from his loop-holed residence at Goncho. It is the invariable policy of the haughty abogaz to assume the great man to all travellers, since it is generally understood that through him alone foreigners can be received and forwarded, or if necessary, presented to the negoos. This arrange- ment involves not only trouble, but con- siderable expense ; his despotic majesty claiming the prerogative of franking every visitor through his territories, and a portion of the attendant outlay falling upon the functionary who may be honored with the royal commands. Openly opposed to European innovation, Mohammad particularly disliked the advent of the British embassy, and was obviously doing his utmost to thwart the more liberal views of the crown, by treating the stran- gers with disrespect. The imperial order that an escort of matchlockmen should for the first time cross the hill frontier, and proceed into the plain of the Hawash, to do honor to the Christian guests, not only rankled in his Moslem breast, but was cal- culated to interfere with his resolution to preserve inviolate the avenues to the sea- coast. His intrigues had rendered abor- tive all attempts to communicate with the court ; and while the approach of the em- bassy was not reported until its actual ar- rival at Dathara, his noncompliance with the order given had resulted most preju- dicially, the Danakil guides being now more than ever unwilling to persuade them- selves that the party would be welcome. Preparations were making the following morning to continue the march to Farri, when the burly functionary was seen pom- pously approaching with measured step, followed by a retinue of many hundred armed followers, whose shaven heads rose unturbaned above flowing white mantles. Far from announcing himself in the cus- tomary manner, he remained seated in por- tentous dignity, beneath the shade of a venerable tamarind by the road-side, until, every camel having been loaded, the cara- van was moving off the ground. A peremp- tory message was received through one of his myrmidons, to the effect, that he stood strictly charged with the king's com- mands to suffer not one of the party to ad- vance until the next day, and that he was prepared to enforce the interdiction. There seemed little reason to doubt of this being a premeditated falsehood, as it afterward proved to be ; but the ras el kafilah having heard the injunction repeated in presence of the Wulasma Suleiman Moosa, abogaz of Channoo, as coming direct from his ma- jesty, timidly declined any infringement, and again threw down the loads. Condescending at length in moody sul- lenness to approach with his host of re- tainers, the triumphant potentate, armed with the rosary, or chaplet of one hundred beads, which denoted his intolerant faith, squeezed his pursy figure into a chair, and composed himself with much apparent satisfaction at the success which had at- tended his scheme of opposition. A de- bauched, ill-favored, bloated specimen of mortality, the lines of intemperance were deeply graven on his truculent visage, which was at once cunning, sinister, and forbidding. But the party were not long troubled with his obnoxious presence. The reception he experienced, although 102 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. civil, was distant and studiously formal, and the sun, beating in a full blaze upon his bald crown, rendered his position so extremely untenable, that after stiffly mur- muring replies to the customary inquiries anent the health and well-being of his august master, he rose unceremoniously, and abruptly withdrew. Throughout this brief and very unbend- ing interview, a brawny retainer stood behind the chair, denuded to the waist. In his right hand he ostentatiously dis- played the chief jailer's sword of state — a short heavy blade upon the model of the old Roman falchion, inclosed in a scab- bard of massive silver ; and his left arm supported a buckler of stiff bull's-hide, elaborately emblazoned with crescents and brass studs. The benevolent and prepos- sessing aspect of the Wulasma Suleiman Moosa, who occupied a second seat, offered a striking contrast to the repulsive arro- gance ot his scowling colleague. On his right side, protruding upward with the curve of a scorpion's tail, he v^bre a semi- circular weapon, also denominated a sword, though in fact more nearly allied to a reaping-hook — a proud badge of office, with a fluted tulip-shaped termination to the silver scabbard, which, according to the wont of the despot, had been confer- red on the occasion of his first installation in office, but which ludicrously interfered with comfort in an arm-chair. During the residue of the day, the con- duct of the state-jailer was perfectly in unison with his character and previous hostile proceedings. He brought the white visitors neither presents nor supplies, ac- cording to the rules of Abyssinian hospi- tality; and although made fully aware that the camp was drained of provisions, prevented purchases by the undue exer- cise of his influence and authority. A pelting rain during the night, from which his sleek person was defended by naught save the pervious branches of a tamarind, had not tended to soften the asperities, or to alleviate the sourness of his aspect, when the day dawned ; and it was only on finding the party prepared to advance at the hazard of forcible opposition, that he finally yielded the point, and betwixt his closed teeth muttered his grumbling consent to an arrangement which he felt longer unable with prudence to oppose- " The English are a great nation," whis- pered the nephew of Ali Shermarki, as he passed the haughty abogaz, " and you had better take care to treat them civilly. Wultahi ! one of their ships of war would carry this kafilah over the water, and you and all your host of followers into the bargain." CHAPTER XXXVII. DINOMALI. GREETINGS FROM THE NEG008 AT FARRI, ON THE FRONTIER OF HIS DOMINIONS. Gradually ascending through a hilly and well-wooded country, still a positive garden of the wild aloe, the road now led through a succession of deep glades, which opened in turn upon verdant moun- tain scenery ; and at an early hour, after the first signs of cultivation had been af- forded in the truly grateful sight of ploughs turning up the soil, the tents were erected on the open plain of Dinomali. At this, the frontier station of Argobba, are levied the royal import duties of ten per cent.; and a scene of noise, bustle, and confusion did not fail to ensue, such as is wont to attend the arrival of every caravan. In his character of collector- general of customs, the pompous wulas- ma took seat below a tree in the centre, while his myrmidons, beleaguering every load the moment it was removed from the camel, prevented all access on the part of the owner, until scrutinizing search had been instituted by the secretary for the salt trade, and the imperial scribes had, by a tedious process denominated writing, completed an inventory of contents. From time immemorial, it had been the law of the realm to regard the despotic ruler as the proprietor of every movable in the land ; and it was not without many looks of incredulity and amazement, that the custom-house officers now received the astounding intimation, that they would touch the baggage of the British embassy at their peril. Thus for the first time thwarted in their prerogative of forcing open boxes, and in- specting the wares they contained, Debte- ra Tekla Zion and his brother scribes were tempted to attribute the opposition offered to the truth of a vague report already cur- rent, that a foreign king was being smug- gled into Abyssinia for evil. And they were still standing in mute astonishment, with idle ink-horns dangling from their hands, lost in conjecture of the probable consequences involved by the unprecedent- ed interference exercised, when a message was received, expressive of the compli- ments and best wishes of Sahela Selassie. Still at a distance from Ankoker, his ma- jesty had resolved, in order to hasten the ESCORT OF HONOR—FINAL ADVANCE. 103 Interview with his guests, to proceed at once to the capital, whither the English were invited to repair with all possible ex- pedition. The arrival of this unlooked-for saluta- tion, which was coupled with an affirmative answer to a request previously made, that the presents in charge of the embassy might neither be interfered with, nor sub- jected to the usual custom-house scrutiny when crossing the frontier, had the effect of bringing to his senses the overbearing wulasma; and, in accordance with the king's instructions, oxen, sheep, bread, beer, and hydromel were liberally supplied without another moment's demur. But a freslj source of delay and annoyance forth- with arose on the part of the ras el kafilah, whose latent object being to transfer the charge of Danakil caravans from the hands of the corpulent and now civil jailer, to those of Wulasma Suleiman Moosa, made the acceptance of supplies at the hand of the former a pretext for throwing up his functions and setting out to Ankober, ex- claiming as he mounted his mule in a tow- ering passion, for the avowed purpose of laying his complaint at the footstool of the throne, "Am not I the brother of the Sul- tan of Tajura ?" But the furious elder had not proceeded far on his adventurous journey, ere his ears were saluted by repeated discharges of musketry, accompanied by martial mu- sic, and a solemn vocal chorus. These served to announce the advent of Ayto Katama, commander-in-chief of the impe- rial body-guard, with the escort of honor, consisting of three hundred matchlockmen, who were to have received the embassy on the banks of the Hawash. The arrival of this important personage, whose school- boyish sallies ill became his years and high military functions, was speedily followed by the appearance of Ayto Wolda Hana, governor of Ankober, and first nobleman in the realm, also fraught with congratu- lations. His presence had the effect of recalling the irritated ras to a sense of duty ; and no efficient carriage having been pro- vided by the abogaz,it was finally arranged after many difficulties, objections, and dis- putes, that the baggage should be trans- ported to Farri, other two miles in advance, where Mohammadan porters could be ob- tained in sufficient numbers to convey it to its final destination — the mountains in ev- ery part being deemed quite inaccessible to the camel. Although the distance from Farri did not exceed a mile, the lateness of the hour at which this accommodation was vouch- safed, rendered it impossible to carry the measure into effect until the following day. The governor of Ankober meanwhile po- litely insisted upon charging himself with the baggage, his officious zeal extending even to the effects of private individuals, whereby much inconvenience was entailed. But notwithstanding his garulous protest- ations, and the presence of so large a body of the royal troops, everything was finally left unprotected ; and, before his negli- gence was discovered, four of the remain- ing mules had been stolen from the pickets by the marauders who infest the neighbor- hood. Loaded for the thirty-fifth and last time with the baggage of the British embassy, the caravan, escorted by the detachment of Ayto Katama, with flutes playing and muskets echoing, and the heads of the warriors decorated 'with white plumes, in earnest of their bold exploits during the late expedition, advanced on the afternoon of the 16th of July, to Farri, the frontier town of the kingdom of Efat. Clusters of conical-roofed houses, covering the sloping sides of twin hills which form a gorge wherein the royal dues are deposit- ed, here presented the first permanent hab- itations that had greeted the eye since leaving the sea-coast ; rude and ungainly, but right welcome signs of transition from depopulated wastes to the abodes of man. As well from the steepness of the rug- ged mountains of Abyssinia, which tow- ered overhead, as from the pinching climate of their wintry summits, the camel becomes useless as a beast of burthen ; and none being ever taken beyond the frontier, many of the wulasma's retinue now gazed at the ungainly quadrupeds for the first time. The " ship of the desert" has been created for the especial benefit of sultry, arid, and waterless plains, such as those now cross- ed, where no other domesticated animal could long exist ; but where, even under the most scorching radiation of heat, when the skin peels from the parched lips of the pilgrim, and the horizon beams as with the fires of an hundred volcanoes, the soft lustrous eye of the patient dromedary loses not a jot of its wonted brilliancy. But numbers had been dreadfully wrung during the tedious march, those especially which carried tent-poles and other unmanageable burdens ; and among others, two of the finest had sunk under the weight of the galloper-gun. No sooner was the load now removed, than a swarm of parasitic birds, with brilliant golden eyes, here for the first time seen, swarmed around the galled part, and having dived into the gap- 104 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ing wounds, without causing perceptible annoyance to the sufferer, became so en- grossed in the removal of ticks and mag- gots with their crimson bills, that several were made prisoners with the hand. Boxes and bales as they arrived were deposited within a stone inclosure in the centre of the area ; and the bloated wul- asma, again seated in regal dignity beneath an ancient acacia, which threw its slender shade over the heterogeneous pile, placing Ayto Wolda Hana upon his right hand, with the aid of the royal scribes and their inkhorns commenced an inventory de novo. Vigorous attempts to force open the cases were once more resisted, with complete success. Earnest expostulations tried in turn by the Moslem and the Christian, were alike unheeded ; and amid noise, clamor, and confusion, such as could ill be described, the inquisitive functionaries were fain, as before, to content themselves with a list of packages in the gross. Rough conjectural estimates of the number of muskets contained in each matted roll, were, however, clandestinely formed, by dint of squeezing and pinching ; and these too were committed to writing, as though fears were entertained lest the king might now, in his own dominions, be defrauded of a portion of the investment transported in safety thither from a distant land. Hajji Mohammad, a respectable old slave- dealer in the suite of the abogaz, had du- ring this interim obligingly undertaken to solve certain puzzling geographical ques- tions proposed, and with a staff was me- thodically tracing on the sand, for the edification of his European audience, the position of the Hawash in its upper course. An insane old Hassoba, long resident at Farri, whose head labored under the effect of sundry wounds received in youth, had unfortunately become violently excited by too copious libations in honor of the safe arrival of his clansmen. To the annoy- ance of every one, he had been bawling incessantly for many hours, and he pres- ently staggered up to ascertain if he could throw light upon the subject under dis- cussion. "What do you know about the Ha- wash?" he exclaimed, in a violent passion, as the name of the lone river fell upon his ear — "Pray where did you learn about the Hawash, or the Ittoo, or the Aroosi ?"— - and suiting the action to the word, his cudgel rattled heavily over the crown of the unoffending pilgrim to the shrine of the Prophet. Nettled at this unprovoked assault, the venerable man retorted with interest — blows pattered thick and fast, a crowd collected, creeses were drawn, and the friends of the respective parties felt themselves bound to interfere. The bel- ligerent Hajji was held to prevent his com- mitting murder ; and the Adel geographer, as he walked reluctantly away, under a shower of stones, turning frequently to breathe defiance to the object of his ire, repeated with a sneer, " Here is the Ha- wash indeed ; what the devil does that old donkey know about the Hawash !" Meanwhile arrived a special messenger, bearing reiterated compliments from the negoos, with a horse and a mule from the royal stud, attired in the peculiar trappings and colors which in Shoa pertain solely to majesty. The bridles and breastplates glittered with studs and bosses of polished metal ; gay embroidery in colored worsted covered the saddle-cloth of the mule, and a collection of silver chains, jingles, and bells, encircled her neck. At sight hereof, wo- men and girls enveloped in blood-red shifts, who had thronged to the busy scene to stare at the white strangers, at once burst into a loud scream of acclamation. A group of hooded widows, occupying an adjacent public asylum, thrust their fingers into their ears, and joined in the clamor. Escort and camel-drivers, now at their journey's end, had placed no bounds to their hilarity. A fat Ox, that had been promised, was turned loose among the spectators — pursued by fifty savages with gleaming creeses — and ham-strung by a dexterous blow, which threw it bellowing to the earth in the height of its mad career. The rival clans of lean curs, that are re- spectively quartered on the dung-heaps of the twin hills, and suffer no intrusions into each other's domains, rushed to the neu- tral ground, and forthwith commenced an indiscriminate engagement over the gar- bage ; and while Debtera Tekla Zion, still counting and recounting, amended his long list with untiring perseverance, crowds of porters and lounging visitors added the mite of their united voices to the din, tu- mult, and intolerable uproar which contin- ued until close of day. Predatory incursions of the Galla upon the Argobba frontier are frequent, and not many weeks had passed away since six of the king's liege subjects were murdered within the precincts of the encamping ground. In defiance of tempestuous weath- er, two European soldiers and an officer had been on guard without shelter during every night of the long and tedious march, and the sergeant of the escort had every hour personally relieved the sentries : but the exposed position of the baggage, added 2- 3 3 3 j THE TRIBE ADALI— DEBENIK WOEMA. 105 to the evil character borne by the spot, and the experience already gained at Dinomali, still precluded the discontinuance of watch and ward, whereof all were heartily weary. In the dead of night an alarm caused all to spring from their couches on the hard ground, and to stand prepared for the re- ception of an unseen foe, whose approach was announced by the blast of some hide- ous warhorn. Halters had been broken, and mules and horses were charging over the tent ropes, nor was the real cause of the confusion discovered for some minutes. A thirsty dog, unacquainted with the arti- fice resorted to by the fox that needed water, had recklessly thrust his mangy head so deep into an earthen jar, that he was unable to withdraw it, and rushing he knew not whither, was giving vent through his strange proboscis to fearful hollow groans, which might well have instilled terror into the breast of the superstitious, and did not fail to elicit ceaseless howls from the canine occupants of the dunghill. The delinquent was shot, and order be- ing at length restored, those who were en- titled to slumber again proceeded to avail themselves of the privilege. After pacing his beat some hours beyond the wonted period of relief, the sentinel who mounted at midnignt, hailed the officer on duty. Receiving no reply to the challenge, he approached the door of the tent, and there, sad to relate, the first breach of discipline was detected on the part of the guardian of the camp, who, worn out by incessant vigils, was on this, his last watch, lying fast asleep upon his post, with a pistol in each hand ! CHAPTER XXXVIII. A FARTING TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE IN- SCRIBED TO THE PEOPLE OF ADEL. Tradition asserts that prior to the in- vasion of Graan, " the mighty Adel mon- arch," who overran and dismembered once powerful Ethiopia, the eastern limit of the empire was Jebel Aiiilloo, known to tb^ Abyssinians as Mount Azulo. But. al- though frequently invaded, no portion of the wide plain of the Hawash has been reconquered, whether by Sahels Selassie, or by his ancestors. The relatives of cer- tain of those in authority have been made prisoners by trea.chery, and as hostages are held in close durance by the king, but the Doasted influence of the abogaz is princi- pally supported by conciliation, and by the annual presentation of cloths and sp 8 to the various chiefs and elders — a mea- sure having for its object to preserve the avenues to the sea-coast, and to the Bahr Assal, whereon Shoa and Efat are almost entirely dependent for foreign wares, and for salt, which the country does not pro- duce. The powerful independent chieftain of the principal section of Gibdosa, who oc- cupy the detached hill of Rasa, across the Robi river, northward of Dinomali, is one of those in nominal alliance with the ne- goos ; but his wild Moslems make con- stant predatory inroads upon the frontier of Argobba, slaying Christians and Mo- hammadans of either sex, without com- punction ; and the policy of his majesty prohibiting retaliation, however aggravated the outrage, Anbassa Ali, or " the Lion," who like Esau of old is said to be covered with hair from the crown of the head even unto the sole of the foot, not unfrequently makes hostile demonstrations in person, which require all the wulasma's tact and diplomatic cunning to avert. From Hao, on the eastern side of the Hawash, to Farri, the intervening tract, under the nominal jurisdiction of Moham- mad Abogaz, is in occupation of a mixed nomade population, not remarkable for their honesty, and composed from numerous subdivisions of the Danakil, but principal- ly from the Burhanto or Adali, under ibn Hamed deen Hassan. This latter, which takes Ada'iel in the plural, is the clan of the reigning Sultan of Taj lira ; and being in days of yore the most powerful and im- portant tribe in the nation, its name has been imparted to the entire country, now corrupted into Adel. In time of war with the adjacent Galla, on the south, or when called upon to repel the predatory mvasions of the Muda'i'to, the tribes we?cward of the Hawash assem- ble with tke Tukhaiel, the Debeni, the Dermeia, the Rookhba, the Woema, and the Hy Sornauli, the extent of whose re- spective territories has already been de- fbed. These, with the Abli or Dinserra, under Mohammad Ali, surnamed Jeroaa, or " the Thief,*' which is the tribe of Ha- med Buna"i'to, present wuzir and heir-appa- rent to the throne of Tajura — the Adaneito and Nakur, under Shehem Mulakoe — the Dondametta, the Duttagoora, and the Hus- soba, led respectively by Ahmed Ka.mil, Sheikh Deeni, and Deeni ibn Ibrahim — collectively assume the title of Debenik- Woema, k being the Dankali conjunction. Adalo bin Hamed, who leads a section of the Gibdosa encamped at Haode and Dunne, occasionally unite? with the De- 106 HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. benik-W&ema in the time of their need, but he is held virtually independent. The fourth and last section of the Debeni, under the authority of Mahmoodi, has its tents at the isolated volcanic mountain of Fan- tali, southward of Dinomali, where reside also the united Ada'iel clans Ulua'ito, Muf- fa, and Eyrolasso, under the great "brave" Lamdllifan. These tribes occupy the whole extent of country between Abyssinia and Mirsa Rahei'ta, near the entrance to the Red Sea, the head-quarters of Roofa Boorhan, sheikh of a subdivision of the Duttagoora. Thence they stretch along the coast to the south-eastward, and from Goobut el Kha- rab, between the parallels, bounded on the south by the Eesah and other Somauli tribes, and flanked on the north by the Mudaito. The Ada'iel or Danakil population, which, including the Mudaito, extends as far as Arkeeko, entitles itself Afer, and claims to be descended from Arab invaders, who, in the seventh century of the Christian era, overran and colonized the low tract which forms a zone between the Abyssinian Alps and the coast of the Red Sea. To a cer- tain extent, the northern tribes are subject to the Nayib of Arkeeko, whose authority is recognized in much the same proportion as that of the feeble Suhan of Tajiira by the southern clans ; but, although speaking the same language, they can hardly be said to constitute a nation, being so widelv dis- ii persed, that for many days together not a trace of man is to be discovered over the joyless deserts which form the lot of h;s inheritance, scorched by an ardent sun, and alive only with ; ' moving pillars of sand." From time immemorial, every individual has been his own king. L\ch marauding community is marked by a wild independ- ence ; and the free spirit of tire whole is to be traced in the rapine, discord, and bloodshed, which universally pr&yail. Theirs is "an iron sky, and a soil of bra^," where the clouds drop little rain, and the earth yields no vegetation. It is no ' : land of rivers of waters," nor have the " lines fallen in pleasant places." The desert stretches far on every side, strewed with black boulders of heated lava, and en\ el- oped by a glowing atmosphere. In this country of perfidy and vindictive ferocity, the proprietors of the barren land murder every stranger who shall intrude ; and the common benefits of water are an object of perpetual contest. Reprisal and revenge form the guiding maxim of all. Monsters, not men, their savage propensities are por- trayed in a dark and baleful eye, and the avenger of blood is closely dogging the footsteps of one half the population. As laziness is the chief source of Afri- can misery at large, so is it with the Dan- akil in particular. They possess that " conceit in their misery," which induces them to despise the labors of the cultivator; and such is the characteristic want of wa- ter, that, excepting at Aussa, agriculture is unknown, even in its rudest form. A pastoral, itinerant, and belligerent people, divided into endless clans and ramifications, under divers independent chieftains, their mode of living entitles them to rank only one step in civilization above the positive savage, who depends for daily subsistence upon the chase and upon the spontaneous productions of nature. Born to the spear, and bred in eternal strife with his predatory neighbors, each lawless member of the straggling commu- nity inherits the untameable spirit of the descendants of Ishmael ; and it is made subservient to all the worst vices and pas- sions inherent, in the semi-barbarian. In his very attitude and bearing, there is that which proclaims him, in his own opinion, lord of the universe, entitled to enjoy, with a thankless heart, all that he is capable of enjoying. No favor claims his gratitude — nothing demands a thought beyond the present moment. Unlike the Arab Be- douin, he is too indolent and improvident during seasons of plenty, to convert the produce of his flocks and herds into a store against, the coming day of drought and famine. Gorged to repletion, the residue is suffered to go to waste : and so long as his belly is full, his licentiousness gratified, and he has leisure to lounge about in list- less idleness, the measure of his happiness is complete, and the sun may rise and set without his troubling his head as to the mode in which the day has been passed, or how the next meal is to be provided. Many of the Ada'iel are extensive own- ers of camels, and deal largely in slaves — a trade which yields three hundred per cent., with the least possible risk or trouble to the merchant : but when not upon the journey periodically undertaken to acquire the materials for this traffic, all lead a life of indolence and gross sensuality — eating, sleeping, and indulging in the baser pas- sions, accord'mg to the bent of their vicious inclinations. Their delight is to be dirty and to be idle. They wear the same cloth, without ablution, until it fairly drops from the back ; and abhorring honest labor, whether rgricultural or handicraft, pass the day in drowsiness, or in the enjoyment TOILET AND COSTUME OF THE DANAKIL. 107 of a quiet seat before the hamlet, where I a comb, and is often fancifully carved and the scandal of the community is retailed, provided with two or even three pronffs. Basking in the sun, and arranging their curly locks with the point of the skewer, they here indulge in unlimited quantities of snuff, and mumble large rolls of tobacco and ashes, which are so thrust betwixt the under lip and the white teeth, as to impart the unseemly appearance of a growing wen, and if temporarily removed, are inva- riably deposited behind the left ear. No race of men stink more offensively ; but while polluting the atmosphere with rancid tallow and putrid animal intestines, they never condescend to approach a Christian without holding their own noses ! Among the Danakil are to be found some of the most scowling, ill-favored, and hid- eous-looking savages in the universe, but the features of the majority have an Arab cast, which supports the legend of their origin ; and notwithstanding the influence exerted upon the lineaments by passions uncontrolled, the expression of many is pleasing, and even occasionally intellec- tual. All are muscular and active, but singularly scraggy and loosely knit, and to an easy, shuffling gait, is added a na- tional addiction to standing cross-legged. Young as well as old take infinite pains to disfigure the person, and thus to render The operation of greasing this wig with- out the aid of the barber, is original. A lump of raw fat, cut from the overgrown tail of the Berbera sheep, having been some time masticated and mumbled, is expelled into the hands, betwixt the palms of which it is reduced by rubbing to a suitable consist- ency, and then transferred en masse to the crown. Exposure to the fierce rays of a tropical sun soon conveys the desired nour- ishment to the roots of the hair. A num- ber of jets and brilliants, which first adorn the periwig, are presently fried into oily shreds, and the liquid tallow, adulterated with dirt, trickling in streams adown the swarthy visage and over the neck, exhales the most sickening of odors. All, howev- er, cannot afford this luxury of the toilet, nor is it every one who can resist the temptation of swallowing the dainty mor- sel when once consigned to the mouth ; and hence is seen many a poll of sun-burnt hair, in color and consistency, resembling the housemaid's cobweb broom, which is quaintly denominated " the pope's head." The simple costume of the Bedouin con- sists of a piece of checked cloth wrapped loosely about the loins, descending to the knee? so as to resemble a kilt or short pet- it ferocious in appearance. Scars obtained I ti*oat ; while a cotton robe is thrown over in brawls and conflicts, from stones and cold steel, are esteemed the highest orna- ments ; and the breast and stomach are usually seamed with a mystic -naze of rhombs and reticulated triano-Jcs, produced by scarification with a sWp fragment of obsidian, so as to resemble the plan of a fortified town of dap* gone by. The upper lip is denuded with the creese, and the scanty beard suffered to flourish in curls along the'cheek and over the chin ; while the hair, coarse and long, saturated with grease and mutton fat from infancy, and exposed during life to the fiercest sun, becomes crisped into a thick curly mop, like a counsellor's wig, which is shaved behind on a line between the ears, and con- stitutes the first great pride of the proprie- tor. The picking it out into a due spheri- cal form, affords employment during his ample leisure, and the contemplation of its wild perfection, is the predominant object when a mirror is placed within his grasp. Baldness commences at an early age, and many of the ancient dandies seek protec- tion from the solar influence under sheep- skin perukes of preposterous size, their artificial curls, in common with those that are natural, displaying an ornamented wooden spike or bodkin, which serves as 8* J the shoulder after the manner of the Roman toga. Miserly in disposition, few outward ornaments grace his person, save an occa- sional necklace of fat, and a few armlets and bracelets composed of certain potent passages from the Koran, either stitched in leather or enveloped in colored thread. A thong adorned with a metal button, girds to the right hip of old and young a creese two feet in length, the wooden hilt of which is decorated with a pewter stud, while the scabbard is ornamented with an aromatic sprig, employed as a tooth-brush, and mas- ticated for hours together. Three inches broad in the blade, and possessing a truly murderous crook in the centre, the creese is doubtless a most for- midable weapon at close quarters. With it the Danakil builds his house; with it he slays the animal, and flays the carcass. It is his sword in battle, his knife at the ta- ble, his razor at the toilet, his hatchet, and his nail-parer. A savage desirous of illus- trating the most approved exercise, after whetting the blade upon a stone, capers about describing a series of flourishes and cuts, both under and over the shield, stab- bing and parrying to the right and to the left, until at length comes the last grand touch of disembowelment, when a ripping 108 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. motion is accompanied by a bound into the air, and a howl of perfect satisfaction, such as might be conjectured to issue from the jaws of the glutted vampire. The spear, which is seldom out of the hand of the Danakil, is some seven feet in length, a shaft of tough close-grained wood called " adepto," being heavily poised with metal at the butt, and topped by a blade from ten to fifteen inches long, by three broad, reduced to as keen an edge as constant scouring with sand and grease can impart. Great aversion is entertained to this weapon being stepped over, and its- fall to the ground, independently of the damage that might be sustained, is regard- ed as an evil omen, and believed to destroy its power over the flesh and blood of an ene- my. The spear of a chief only is mount- ed with bands of brass and copper wire, but the points of all are graced alike with a lump of sheep's-tail fat. Although some- times employed as a missive, the pike ex- ercise is more usually resorted to — the warrior stealing onward in a crouching position, and springing suddenly, with a yell and a cat-like bound, to transfix the body pf his foe. " None but a woman would retain the spear in the hour of bat- tle," quoth one of the braves — " the creese is the hand to hand weapon !" The shield, fashioned out of the fevlff hide of the baeza, or of the wild buffalo, is a perfect circle, of from one to two feet in diameter, with the rim turned outward, and the centre convexed, for the purpose of checking the flight or launch of the missive. A button or boss which forms the apex, is usually adorned with some proud trophy of the chase, in addition to the red beard of a he-goat, undeviatingly attached as a charm. A small bag, slung in the interior of the buckler, contains the portable wealth of the proprietor, and a forked stick is annexed to the handstrap, to'admit of suspension to a tree. Enga- ged, the w T arrior keeps the shield in a con- tinual revolving motion, in strict accord- ance with the movement of his eyes, which in fierce and violent frenzy are rolled in the sockets during the continuance of the conflict. Cruel, blood-thirsty, and vindictive, the Danakil do not possess that spirit of indi- vidual enterprise or chivalry, or that reck- less disregard of persona.1 danger which, to certain races of men, imparts the stamp of military habits ; but a season of scar- city dooms every neighbor! ng tribe whose pastures ai own, to invasion, massacre, and pillage. A fiendish .'signal for the gather- ing of the clan ; and, obedient to the call, each man at arms, grasping spear and shield, abandons his wretched wigwam with truly savage alacrity. His fierce and untamed passions now riot uncontrolled, and those who during the foray are guilty of the greatest enormities, strut about on return among their fellows bedecked with ostrich plumes, and other badges of dis- tinction, reciting each to some wild tune, the. tale of his bloody exploits. Morose, and possessing little perception of the ridiculous, witticisms and hilarity in conversation are restricted to the ribald jest ; but brawls are frequent, and the bi- vouac is often cheered by the wild chorus selected from a choice collection breathing in every line self-sufficiency and defiance to the foe. Accompanied by savage ges- tures and contortions — now menacing*", now mincing, and now furious — these strains are chanted during the livelong night with clear and energetic throats, chiefly with the design of intimidating; by the noisy clamor, any hostile party that may be lurking in the vicinity of the encampment, intent either upon the requital of injuries done, or the acquisition of fame by aggressions unpro- voked. Superstitious to the last degree, the itin- erant Bedouin takes the field arrayed in a panoply of amulets, designed as a defence ao ainst witchcraft, and to be thrown toward tn* enemy in the hour of battle. A verse from the Koran, sewn up in leather, and hung ab*ut the neck, secures him against all incorporeal enemies. No whirlwind ever sweeps across il ie path without being pur- sued by a dozen sa^ges with drawn crees- es, who stab into the centre of the dusty column, in order to drive away the evil spi- rit that is believed to be riding on the blast. All have firm faith in the incarnation of the devil, who is described as a monster with perpendicular eyes, capable of rolling along the ground with the rotatory motion of a ball ; and Ibrahim Shehem Abli, a most unblushing liar, and no less notable a ne- cromancer than warrior, confidently assert- ed his individual ability to raise seven hun- dred of these demons for evil, during any moonlight night of the entire year. The mosque and the muezzin have no, existence in the interior, where religion gradually shades away ; and, unlike the people of Tajfira, there is here little exter- nal display of Islamism observable, save in the bigoted detestation evinced toward those of every other than the Mohammadan creed. But . and rosaries are 111 pre- serve their knavish reputations unblem- FEMALE CONDITION AND COSTUME. 109 ished. The white feather, which in Europe is the emblem of cowardice, is appropriately placed in the head of these midnight assas- sins, and the neighboring tribes have not ill-portrayed the "national character in the assertion, that " the tongues of the Adaiel are long for the express purpose of lying, that their arms are long but to admit of their pilfering the property of others, and that their legs are long in order that they may run away like poltroons in the day of danger and retribution." CJdAFTEK XXXIX. THE GENTLE ADAlEL, AND FAREWELL TO THEM. " Yet one kind kiss before we part, Drop a tear, and bid adieu." To be the wife of a true believer, in whatever state of society, from the most refined to the most barbarous, is to be cursed in the fullest acceptation of the word. But of the two extremes, many, if the choice were given, would doubtless pre- fer the drudgery that fails to the lot of the partner of the untaught savage, with all the manifold discomforts attending precarious subsistence, to the immolation and seclu- sion, which in civilized Mohammadan coun- tries, is imposed upon the fairest of God's works. Taking no part with her lord in the concerns of this world — taught to ex- pect no participation in the happiness of that which is to come — she is a prisoner kept to minister to the lusts of the flesh ; and the higher the state of cultivation — the more exalted the rank of the captive — so much the more rigorous is the restraint imposed. In the European acceptation of the term, small traces are here to be found of the sentiment of love ; and jealousy, when it does exist, would seldom appear to arise from any regard for the object that has cre- ated the feeling. The Dankali female has contrived to retain her natural right of lib- erty ; and so long as the wife performs the labor required at her hands, she is at full liberty to flirt unreproved, to the full extent of her coquettish inclinations. Upon Bai- leela devolves the task of leading the fore- most camel, or carrying the heavy burthen slung by a sharp rope which passes across her breast. She fetches water and wood, prepares the milk, and boils the meat. She it is who weaves mats of the date-leaf for the use of her listless and indolent lord ; tends his flocks of sheep and goats, dis- mantles and erects his wigwam when mi- grations are undertaken to distant pools and pastures ; and, seated at his feet, chases away the flies which disturb his repose be- neath the shade of the palm. Here, how- ever, the needle is monopolized by the male, and he is sometimes to be seen in- dustriously stitching a new leathern petti- coat for his hard-worked partner, who, conscious of the fleeting- nature of her charms, makes the utmost of her short lease ; and in the nature of her occupation finds ample opportunities for indulgence. The features of the Bedouin damsel, al- though degenerate, resemble those of the Arabian mother, from whom she claims de- scent ; and so close a similarity pervades the community at large, that one mould would appear to have been employed for every individual composing it. Nature be- ing suffered to model her daughters accord- ing to her will, their figures during a brief period are graceful ; but feminine symme- try is soon destroyed by the constant pres- sure of heavy loads against the chest, and under the fiery heat of her native sands, the nymph is presently transformed into the decrepit hag, with bent back and wad- dling gait. A short apron of bullock's hide, with frilled edges, is tied above the hips with a broad band, the sport of every wan- ton whirlwind ; but from the waist upward the person is unveiled. A coif of blue calico covers the head of those who have entered the conjugal state, while that of the virgin is unattired ; but the hair of all is arranged in an infinity of elaborate plaits falling to the shoulders, and liberally greased. So are also sundry narrow bands of raw hide, which are usually tied above the ankles by way of charms to strengthen the legs, and which, contracting as they dry, sink deep below the surface of the part compressed. A petaled sprig, appearing to grow out of the waistband, ascends on either side of the spine, in tattooed relief, resembling tam- bour work, and diverging .across the ribs, finishes in fancy circles around the bosom according to the taste of the designer. This is a constant quantity, and the charms of many a belle are further heightened by scarification — an angle to break the even- ness of the smooth forehead, or the arc of a circle to improve the dimple on the cheek, being favorite devices. From the ears of all who can afford personal ornament, de- pend two conical drops wrought of thick brass wire, spirally coiled, resting on a curved iron base, and separated by two broad horizontal bands of pewter. When the wearer is in activity, the flapping of these cumbrous metallic appendages is 110 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ridiculous enough ; and the rattle may be heard to a considerable distance, as they come into violent collision with a necklace composed of a medley of beads, bones, cow- ry shells, jingles, and amulets, strung in many rows upon a leathern collar embed- ded in dirt and grease, and terminating in a large rhomb of pewter. Bracelets and anklets of the same metal are usual, and the ornament of a squalling brat with in- flamed weasel-like eyes, slung over the back, is rarely wanting to complete the figure — a jerk to the right or to the left bringing it readily across the shoulder whpn occasion demands . The Bedouin wigwam — a rectangle of eight feet in length by six broadj and five high — is constructed of a succession of branches in couples, curved before the fire, and lashed in the form of a lip-arch. A mat composed of date-leaves forms the roof; and the whole fabric, wherein the hand of no master-builder is visible, is thus readily transferred from place to place. " Omnia mea mecum fero" should form the motto of the wandering Dankali, whose only furniture consists of a tressel hollowed at the top to serve as a pillow — a luxury restricted to the male sex. In the huts of the more wealthy, wooden platters and ladles sometimes form part of the household gear, together with closely-woven mat-baskets to contain milk ; .but this beverage is more usually consign- ed to a bag of sheep or goat-skin — sun- dried flesh, grease, grain, and water, being lodged also in similar receptacles. Milk forms the principal diet of this Arcadian race ; and they deride the dwel- lers in cities for eating birds or fowls, de- claring that the flesh must have travelled upon four legs during life, to be at all palata- ble. An ancient camel, a buck-goat, or a bull-calf, is occasionally slaughtered with a hismillah, and the flesh not immediately con- sumed, cut into long thin collops, and dried in the sun, to be stuffed again into the skin for future use. Meat is broiled among the embers, upon closely-packed pebbles, which prevents it coming into contact with the ashes; and the master of the house, taking his seat upon the ground beside a lump of raw liver, places a wedge-shaped stone under either heel, in order to impart a slight inclination to the body, and thus preserve the balance without personal ex- ertion. Picking the bones one by one out of the fire, he seizes alternate mouthfuls of the grilled and the raw flesh between the teeth, and with an upward motion of the creese, divides them close to his nose. It may be received as an axiom that no Bedouin will speak the truth, although the doing so might prove to his obvious advan- tage. He is not only a liar by the force of rooted habit and example, but also upon principle, and his oaths are simple matters of form. The name of God is invoked, and the Koran taken to witness, in false- hoods the most palpable ; and to have sworn with the last solemnity, is far from being regarded in the light of a binding obliga- tion. A stone having been cast upon the earth, fire is quenched in water, and the adjuration repeated : " May this body be- come petrified, and may Allah thus ex- tinguish me, if I utter that which is not true ! : ' In conversation a portion of every sen- tence is invariably taken up by the person addressed — the last word being generally considered sufficient, or even an abbrevi- ation to the final syllable. The salutation of the tribes, between whom little bond exists. beyond identity of language, is a cold forbidding touch of the ringers, fully indicative of the unfriendly sentiments of the heart. All prey upon each other, and every individual, in whatever rank, is by nature, as well as by habit and inclination, an assassin. None will hesitate to mutilate or barbarously put to death any member of another clan whom he may find at advan- tage, either sleeping or at a distance from succor — the appetite for plunder, and thirst for blood, inherent in the breast, being quite sufficient to dictate every act of atrocity, and to impel every dastardly outrage, that a savage can devise or commit. Dwelling in a scene of aridity, hostility, and bloodshed, traversed by barren chains bearing the impress of volcanic desolation, and cursed with a soil rarely susceptible of cultivation, but still more rarely culti- vated, the hand of the roving Bedouin is against every man, and every man's hand is against him. The truth of the scriptural prophecy respecting the untameable de- sendants of Ishmael, here as elsewhere is well maintained ; nor were the words of the poet ever more truly exemplified than in the hot weary wastes of the Adaiel : " Nothing save rapine, indolence, and guile, And woes on woes, a still revolving train, Whose horrid circle has made human life Than non-existence worse." Arrogant, treacherous, and degraded bar- barians, bound in the fetters of idleness and superstition — dissemblers, whose every word is a lie, and whose overbearing and unaccommodating disposition grafted upon bigoted intolerance, was displayed on every occasion, to the personal discomfort of those DEPARTURE FROM FARRI. Ill by whom they were paid and entertained — there was never throughout the long, tedi- ous, and .trying journey, either on the part of elders, escort, or camel-drivers, the slightest wish or effort, either to honor or oblige ; and it was only on occasions when fire-arms, which they could not gainsay, might prove of service to thoma©lw>s, that the blubber-lip did not swell in scorn at the Christian Kafirs, who were sneered at even in conversation. And these, too, were savages who scarcely knew the use of bread, who rarely employed water for the ablution of their filthy persons, and who kept their heads and bodies floating in a perpetual sea of sheep's-tail fat. On taking leave of the tormenting fraternity, at this the happy termination of a weary and peril- ous pilgrimage, which had been performed without once taking off the clothes, it may safely be averred that no member of the British embassy had ever passed so long a period with so large a party, without de- siring to make further acquaintance with at least one individual : but the last touch of the cold palm was for once received with heartfelt satisfaction, and each bade adieu to the whole community with an in- ward hope that it might never fall to his evil lot to see their scowling faces more. CHAPTER XL ASCENT OF THE ABYSSINIAN ALPS. Having thus happily shaken the Adel dust from off the feet, and taken affection- ate leave of the greasy Danakil, it is not a little pleasant to bid adieu also to their scorching plains of unblest sterility. Eve- ry change of the soil and climate of Afri- ca is in extremes, and barrenness and unbounded fertility border on each other, with a suddenness whereof the denizens of temperate climes can form no concep- tion. As if by the touch of the magi- cian's wand, the scene now passes in an instant, from parched and arid wastes, to the green and lovely highlands of Abys- sinia, presenting one sheet of rich and thriving cultivation. Each fertile knoll is crowned with its peaceful hamlet — each rural vale traversed by its crystal brook, and teeming with herds and flocks. The cool mountain zephyr is redolent of eglan- tine and jasmine, and the soft green turf, spangled with clover, daisies, and butter- cups, yields at every step the aromatic fra- grance of the mint and thyme. The baggage having at length been con- signed to the shoulders of six hundred grumbling Moslem porters, assembled by the royal fiat from the adjacent villages, and who, now on the road, formed a Tine which extended upward of a mile, the embassy, on the morning of the 17th, commenced the ascent of the Abyssinian Alps. Hitherto, every officious attendant functionary had exerted himself to the utmost to promote delay, confusion, and annoyance ; and each now exhorted the respective members of the party to urge their jaded beasts to increased speed, and hasten onward over a rugged path which, in the toil-worn condition of the majority, was not to be ascended without consider- able difficulty. The king was waxing impatient to behold the delighting things that had been imported, an account of which, so far as the prying eyes of his servants had been able to discern, had been duly transmitted to the palace ; and in order to celebrate the arrival of so great an accession of wealth, his majesty's flutes once more poured out their melody, and his warriors again chanted their wild notes among the hills, until far out of hear- ing of the astonished population of Farri. It was a cool and lovely morning, and a fresh invigorating breeze played over the mountain side, on which, though less than ten degress removed from the equator, flour- ished the vegetation of northern climes. The rough and stony road wound on by a steep ascent over hill and dale — now skirt- ing the extreme verge of a precipitous cliff — now dipping into the basin of some verdant hollow, whence, after traversing the pebbly course of a murmuring brook, it suddenly emerged into a succession of shady lanes, bounded by flowering hedge- rows. The w T ild rose, the fern, the lantana, and the honeysuckle, smiled around a suc- cession of highly cultivated terraces, into which the entire range was broken by banks supporting the soil ; and on every eminence stood a cluster of conically- thatched houses, environed by green hedges, and partially embowered amid dark trees. As the troop passed on, the peasant abandoned his occupation in the field, to gaze at the novel procession ; while merry groups of hooded women, decked in scarlet and crimson, summoned by the renewal of martial strains, left their avocations in the hut to welcome the king's guests with a shrill zij-oleet, which rang from every hamlet. The leather petticoat of the wandering shepherdess was no longer to be seen. Birds warbled among the leafy groves, and throughout the rich 112 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. landscape reigned an air of peace and plenty, that could not fail to prove highly delightful after the recent weary pilgrim- age across the hot desert. At various turns of the road the pros- pect was rugged, wild, and beautiful. Ai- gibbi, the first Christian village of Efat, was soon revealed on the summit of a height, where, within an inclosure of thorns, repose the remains of a traveller, who not long before had closed his eyes on the threshold of the kingdom, a victim to the pestilential sky of the lowlands. Three principal ranges were next crossed in suc- cession, severally intersected by rivulets which are all tributary to the Hawash, although the waters are for the most part absorbed before they reach that stream. Lastly, the view opened upon the wooded site of Ankober, occupying a central posi- tion in a horse-shoe crescent of moun- tains, still high above, which inclose a magnificent amphitheatre ten miles in diameter. This is clothed throughout with a splendidly varied and vigorous veg- etation, and choked by minor abutments, converging toward its gorge on the con- fines of the Adel plains. Here the journey was for the present to terminate, and, thanks to Abyssinian jeal- ousy and suspicion, many days were yet to elapse ere the remaining height should be climbed to the capital of Shoa, now distant two hours' walk. Three thousand feet above the level of the Farri stands the market town of Alio Amba, upon the crest of a scarped prong formed by the confluence of two mountain streams. A Mohamrnadan population, not exceeding one thousand souls, the inmates of two hundred and fifty straggling houses, is chiefly composed of Adaiel, Argobba, and merchants from Aussa and Hurrur ; and among this motley community it had been ordained that the embassy should halt that night. Ascending by a steep stony path to an open spot, on which the weekly market is held, the escort fired a desultory salute ; and while crowds of both sexes flocked to behold the white strangers, forming a double line, they indulged in the perform- ance of the war-dance. Relieved occa- sionally by some of the younger braves, who had earned distinctions during the last campaign, a veteran capered before the ranks with a drawn sword grasped be- tween his teeth; and for the edification of the bystanders, the notes of a martial song were powerfully poured forth in cho- rus from three hundred Christian throats. The cone occupied by Alio Amba, is only one of the thousand precipitous emi- nences into which the entire mountain- side is broken on its junction with the plain. Swollen and foaming, the inter- secting torrents appeared from the pinna- cle like small threads of silver, twining and gliding far below amid green bushes and verdant fields, to the great outlet, whence they escape to be soon lost on the desert sand. Together with a bound- less prospect over the inhospitable tract beneath, countless villages now met the eye upon the entire intervening mountain- side, and wherever the slope permitted of the plough being held, there cultivation flourished. Wheat, barley, Indian-corn, beans, peas, cotton, and oil-plant, throve luxuriantly around every hamlet — the regularly marked fields mounting in ter- races to the height of three or four thou- sand feet, and becoming in their bound- aries gradually more and more indistinct, until totally lost on the shadowy green side of Mamrat, " The Mother of Grace." This towering peak, still shrouded in clouds when all was sunshine below, is clothed with a dense forest of timber, and at an elevation of some thirteen thousand feet above the sea, affords secure shelter to the treasures of the monarch, which have been amassing since the reestablish- ment of the kingdom, one hundred and fifty years since. Loza forms the apex of the opposite side of the crescent, and perched on its wooded summit is a monas- tery forming the tempory abode of Hailoo Mulakoot, heir-apparent to the throne of Shoa. But by far the most interesting feature in the stern landscape is a conical hill, conspicuous from its isolated position, and rising amid dark groves of pine-like juniper, from a lofty serrated ridge. Here- on stands the stronghold of Goncho, the residence of Wulasma Mohammad, con- structed over the state dungeon keep, in which, loaded with galling fetters, the three younger brothers of a Christian king — victims to a barbarous statute — have found a living tomb since the present ac- cession, a period of thirty years ! After much needless detention in the market-place, exposed to the impertinent comments and rude gaze of the thronging populace, Ayto Kalama Work, a tall raw- boned man with a loose scambling gait and a dead yellow eye, introduced himself as governor of the town. He condescended in person to conduct the British guests of his royal master to a mansion, which had once boasted of himself as a tenant, bu f was now in the occupation of a fat old Moslem dame, and her three daughters CHEERLESS LODGINGS. 113 whose respective appellatives being duly translated, proved worthy the days of Prince Cherry and Fairstar. Eve, Sweet- limes, and Sunbeam, all clothed alike in scarlet habiliments, vacated the premises with the utmost alacrity, and many good- humored smiles ; but owing to the length and difficulty of the road, that portion of the baggage most in request did not ar- rive until midnight — when, through the officious interference of Ayto Woida Hana, whose garrulity had increased rather than abated, a new inventory of effects in charge of each principal of a village was to be penned by the royal scribe, and thus neither bedding nor food could be obtained. The edifice so ostentatiously allotted for the accommodation of the party by him of the unpromising exterior, was of an ellip- tical form, about thirty feet in length by eighteen in breadth, and surrounded on every side by those tall rank weeds that delight to luxuriate in filth. Two un- dressed stakes supported a tottering grass thatch. Windows there were none. A long narrow aperture did duty for a door, and the walls, which met the roof at a distance of ten feet from the ground, were of the very w T orst description of wattle and dab — the former an assemblage of rotten reeds, and the latter decayed by time in a sufficiency of places to admit the light in- dispensable to a full development of the dirt and misery within. In the principal of two apartments, a circular excavation in the floor surrounded by a parapet of clay, served as a stove. Heavy slabs of stone, embedded in high mud pedestals, used for grinding grain, engrossed one corner, and in another w r ere piled heaps of old bullock hides in various stages of decomposition. Very buggy- looking bedsteads, equipped with a web of narrow thongs in lieu of cotton tape, as- sumed that air of discomfort w T hich a bro- ken or ill-adapted leg is so prone to impart. The narrow necks of divers earthen urn- shaped vessels containing mead, beer, and water, were stuffed with bunches of green leaves. Larger mud receptacles were filled with wheat, barley, and beans ; and huge lumps of raw beef, with sundry bul- locks' heads, which were promiscuously strewed about, garnished the floor, the beds, and the walls, in every direction. The inner chamber boasted the presence of mules and female slaves, who, if judg- ment might be formed from the evil odors exhaled, were revelling in the garbage of the shambles. Constructed on the slope of a hill, the floor of the ediiice throughout was of the natural earth, and dipping at least one foot below the level of the thresh- old, had never known the presence of the housemaid's besom. Equalling the filth- iest Irish hovel in dirt and discomfort, the cheerless abode could boast of no sleek little pig, and of no pond covered with fat ducks, both being alike held in abhorrence by the Jew-Christians of Shoo- , and evon the old hat was wanting, wherewith to cram the gaps through which whistled the keen cutting blast of Alpine climes. Fatigue soon closed the weary eyes ; but the change in the atmosphere, conse- quent upon the great elevation attained, presently interfered with repose upon the damp bare floor. Rain then set in with extreme violence. The water came tum- bling through the manifold apertures in the crazy walls and shattered roof, and having speedily flooded the sloping court, poured over the threshold to deluge the floor with standing pools. Although the smoke of sodden wood, unable to escape, proved an inconvenience scarcely to be borne, there was no dispensing with a fire ; and troops of fleas and sanguinary bugs, coursing over the body, by their painful and poisonous attacks, might al- most have caused a sigh for the execrated plains of the Ada'i'el, which, with all their discomforts of watch and ward, were at least free from the curse of vermin. But the lingering day dawned at last, and with the tedious hours of a cold and sleepless night the rain had also disap- peared. As the rising sun shone against the lofty and now cloudless peaks, prepara- tions were made for continuing the journey to Ankober, in accordance with the royal invitation ; but Ayto Wolda Hana, whose presence ever betokened evil, after wading through the compliments of the morning, proceeded w T ith unbending gravity to un- fold the dismal tidings that the monarch had altered his resolves. His majesty would tarry yet some days longer at Debra Berhan, and, in consequence, graciously extended the option of visiting the court there or resting at Alio Amba, pending his indefinite arrival at the capital. The difficulty, not to say the impossibility, of transporting the mass of baggage to so great a distance, in such weather, and with very inadequate means at command, ren- dered imperative the adoption of the latter alternative. Ayto Wolda Hana and Ka- tama, with the whole of the escort, mean- while took their departure, to report orally the important discoveries they had been able to make relative to the nature of the presents designed for the throne, together with the particulars of the quarrel betwix* 114 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Izhak and Mohammad Ali, and the respec- tive pretensions of the rivals to the honor of having conducted the British visitors into Abyssinia. One of those mysterious boxes, the lad- ing of which, unviolated by the scrutinizing scribes, remained hermetically sealed to the Uxqutaitivc g-oao of officious spies, had, be- fore leaving Farri, been broken open with the design of obtaining access to an indis- pensable portion of the contents. To this unfortunate necessity may possibly be as- cribed the sudden and unlooked-for altera- tion in the royal intentions. In lieu of ingots of gold were revealed to the astound- ed sight the leathern buckets, linch-stocks, and tough ash staves pertaining- to the galloper guns. Words of derision burst from the mouth of every disappointed spec- tator. ;t These," exclaimed fifty vain-glG- rious lips at once, " be but a poor people. What is their nation when compared with- the Amhara ? for behold in this trash, spe- cimens of the offerings brought from their boasted land to the footstool of the might- iest of monarchs !" CHAPTER XLI PROBATION AT ALIO AMEA. Slowly passed the days of fog, and the nights of dire discomfort, during the tedious detention which followed this unfortunate discovery. From the terrace commanding a boundless view over the desolate regions traversed, the overflowing channel of the Hawash, and the lakes Le Ado and Ailabel- lo could each morning be perceived spark- ling with increased lustre, as their fast- filling basins glittered like sheets of bur- nished silver under the rays of the rising sun. The industrious fleas continued their nocturnal persecutions, as if never to be sated with European blood ; and a constant succession of clouds, which ascended the valley, drawing a gray cold curtain before the hoary head of Mamrat, proclaimed, amid prolonged peals of thunder, the com- mencement of the rainy season. But each succeeding night and day brought no nearer prospect of release, and the change in the imperial resolves were scarcely less frequent than those which came over the towering face of the strong- hold of his subterranean treasure. Re- monstrances, penned with infinite labor and difficulty, were responded by endearing messages, garbled at the pleasure of those to whom they were confided ; but the subtle excuse for the further delay of the desired audience was never wanting, and conjec- ture became exhausted in devising the true cause of the mortifying indifference dis- played to the rich presents from " beyond the great sea." A desire on the part of the deepot to pre- serve due respect in the eyes of his lieges, and perhaps also to imbue the minds of his foreign visitors with a befitting sense of his importance, were the most probable motives. Under the existing disappoint- ment, it afforded some consolation to re- member that embassies of old to Northern Abyssinia had experienced similar treat- ment, and to know that delegates to Shoa from the courts of Gondar and Tigre are never presented to the king until weeks after their arrival — a custom originating probably in the more kindly feeling of al- lowing rest to the way-worn traveller, at the close of a long and perilous journey, but perpetuated for less worthy considera- tions. • At length there came a pressing invita- tion to visit the monarch at Debra Berhan, coupled with an assurance that the master of the horse should be in attendance to escort the party. But no master of the horse was forthcoming at the time appoint- ed, and the following day brought a pathetic billet from the palace— a tiny parchment scroll, enveloped in a sheet of wax, breath- ing in its contents regret and disappoint- ment. " Son of my house, my heart longed to behold you, and I believed that you would come. As you appeared not, I passed the day in distress, fearing lest the waters should have carried you away, or that the mule had fallen on the road. I command- ed Melkoo to w T ait and receive you, and to conduct you to me ; but when I hoped to see you arrive, you stayed out. The mule returned ; and when I inquired whither you were gone, they told me that you were left. I have committed the fault, in that I gave not orders that they should go down, and bring you." Meanwhile, the most vigorous attempts were made, on the part both of the wul- asma and of Ayto Wolda Hana, to exer- cise exclusive control over the baggage lodged at Alio Amba. Locks were placed upon the latches, and guards appointed over the doors of the houses wherein it was deposited — fully as much care being taken to preclude access on the part of those by whom it had been brought, as if his Christian majesty had already become the bond- fide proprietor. Repeated orders on the subject, obtained from the palace, were uniformly disregarded by the over- HEREDITARY THIEF-CATCHER. 115 zealous functionaries, and it was only by force of arms that the repositaries were finally burst open, and that charge of the contents could be resumed. Neither were the persecutions of the gaunt governor of the town among the least of the evils to be endured, resulting as they did in consequences the most in- convenient. Specially appointed to enter- tain and provide for the wants of the guests, he supplied at the royal expense provisions alike inferior in quality and de- ficient in quantity, taking care at the same time that the king's munificence should be in no wise compromised by purchases, for these he clandestinely dbmp-iH LIis cv^juvi, uugm be traced to the same jeal- ous feelings that pervaded the breast of his colleagues in office. In the despotic king- dom of Shoa, the sovereign can alone pur- chase colored cloth or choice goods ; and Ayto Kalama Work, who is entitled to a certain percentage upon all imports, hav- ing formed a tolerably shrewd estimate of the contents of the bales and boxes, be- lieved that these would effectually clog the market, and that his dues would be no longer forthcoming. Resolved to extend the most unequivocal proofs of his discon- tent, he was pleased to assign to the sur- viving horses and mules of the foreigners a tract destitute of pasturage — one mul- berry-colored steed only being pampered, because from size, color, and appearance, it was assumed that he must be intended for the king. The continued drenching rain at night during the later marches, with the intense heat and general absence of water and forage throughout the whole pilgrimage, had sadly reduced the original number. Many more had dropped on the ascent from Farri, and of those whose strength had enabled them to climb the more favored mountains of Abyssinia, the tails of one half were now presented as evidences of their fate. Among the very few incidents that oc- curred to break the monotony of the pro- bationary sojourn, was the arrival of the " lebashi," the hereditary thief-catcher of the kingdom. For several hours the little town was in a state of confusion and dis- may. Burglary had been committed — di- vers pieces of salt had been abstracted, and the appearance of the police-officer was not one whit more agreeable to the inno- cent than to the guilty. A ring having been formed in the mar- ket-place by the crowded spectators, the diviner introduced his accomplice, a stolid- looking lad, who seated himself upon a bullock's hide with an air of deep resigna- tion. An intoxicating drug was, under many incantations, extracted from a mys- terious leathern scrip, and thrown into a horn filled with new milk ; and this pota- tion, aided by several hurried inhalations of a certain narcotic, had the instantaneous effect of rendering the recipient stupidly frantic. Springing upon his feet, he dash- ed, foaming at the mouth, among the rab- ble, and without any respect to age or sex, dealt vigorously about him, until at length secured by a cord about the loins, when he dragged his master round and round from street to street, snuffling through the nose like a bear in the dark recesses of every lirmsp. anrl Ipaving- nnccrntuiizpd X\0 hole or corner. After scraping for a considerable time with his nails under the foundation of a hut, wherein he suspected the delinquent to lurk, the imp entered, sprang upon the back of the proprietor, and became totally insensible. The man was forthwith ar- raigned before a tribunal of justice, at which Ayto Kalama Work presided ; and although no evidence could be adduced, and he swore repeatedly to his innocence by the life of the king, he was sentenced by the just judges to pay forty pieces of salt. This fine was exactly double the amount alleged to have been stolen, and one fourth became the perquisite of the lebashi. The services of the hereditary thief- catcher are in universal requisition. Should the property lost consist of live instead of dead stock, it not unfrequently happens that the disciple remains torpid upon the ground ; when all parties concerned feel perfectly satisfied that the animal has either strayed or been destroyed by wild beasts, and the expenses attending the divination must be paid by the owner. With the de- sign of testing the skill of the magician, the negoos once upon a time commanded his confidential page to secrete certain ar- ticles of wearing apparel pertaining to the royal wardrobe, and after an investigation of four days, the proper individual being selected with becoming formality, the pro- fessional reputation of "him who catches" acquired a lustre which has since remained untarnished. Many a weary hour was passed in list- ening to tales of real or counterfeit mala- dies, which were daily recounted in the hovel at Alio Amba. Witchcraft and the influence of the evil eye have firm posses- sion of the mind of every inhabitant, and sufficiently diverting were the complaints laid to their door by those who sought amulets and talismans at the hand of the 116 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. foreigners. A young Moslem damsel, whose fickle swam had deserted her, could never gaze on the moon that her heart went not pit-a-pat, while the tears stream- ed from her dark eyes ; and a hoary veteran with one foot in the grave sought the res- toration of rhetorical powers, which had formed the boast of his youth, but which had been destroyed by the pernicious gaze of a rival. " Of yore," quoth he who in- troduced the patient, " this was a powerful orator ; and when he lifted up his voice in the assembly, men marvelled as he spoke ; hn± now. although his heart is still elo- quent, his tongue is niggard of words." Equally llU|Jt;le».3 \V and in alarm for the safety of his palace, capital, and treasures, the suspicious monarch still pe- remptorily insisted upon withholding the desired licence, until he should have beheld the battery " with his own eyes," FIRST VIEW OF MACHAL-WANS. 123 CHAPTER XLV. PRESENTATION AT COURT. It rained incessantly with the greatest violence throughout the entire night, and until the morning broke, when a great vol- ume of white scud, rising from the deep valleys, and drifting like a scene-curtain across the stern summit of the giant Mam- rat — now frowning immediately overhead — foretold the nature of the weather that might be anticipated during the important and long-looked-for day. The baggage having, with considerable difficulty, been collected from the various nooks and cor- ners wherein the porters had deposited their loads, and no prospect of a brighter sky be- ing in store, the circumjacent morasses were waded to the face of the hill which obscured Machal-wans. Too steep and slip- pery for mules, this was also ascended on foot, with the aid of long staves ; and the rain, which had been dropping gently for some time, again setting in witff the most malicious steadiness, as if resolved to mar all attempt at display, the whole cavalcade was presently drenched to the skin. An hour's toil over very heavy ground opened a sudden turn in the road, whence the escort, resting their cumbrous match- locks over the rocks, commenced an indis- criminate fire — the reports of their heavily loaded culverins, mingled with the answer- ing note of welcome from the expectant crowd below, echoing long and loud among the broken glens. As the clouds of smoke floated slowly away on the dense atmosphere from the shoulder of the mountain, there burst upon the sight a lovely view of the stockaded palace at Machal-wans. Its co- nical white roofs were embosomed in a fair grove of juniper and cypress, which crested a beautifully wooded tumulus rising at the extreme verge of the valley from the very hanks of a roaring torrent. A bright gref- 1 meadow, spangled with flowers, lay stitch- ed at its foot : the rose, the eglantfie, and the humble violet, grew around la all the grace of native wildness, to xpt&d recollec- tions of happier lands, whikthe great Abys- sinian range, which *ven here towered almost perpendicul'-iiy some two thousand feet overhead, arvi whose peaks were veiled in wreaths of vhite fog, formed a magnifi- cent background to the picture. Isolated farm-houses were profusely scattered over the verdant landscape — rich fields glistened in various stages of maturity — and the rills, swollen by the recent storm, came thun- dering over the mountain- side, in a succes- sion of foaming cascades. 9* Another hour's wading through deep ploughed fields of beans and peas and stand- ing corn, and across the rapid torrent brawl- ing over a rocky bed, brought the draggled party to two time-worn awnings of black serge, which not five minutes before had been pitched for its accommodation in a swamp below the royal residence, and which admitted the rain through an infinity of apertures. This continued up to the last moment, thick and heavy ; but the utmost efforts of the deluge had proven insufficient to cleanse the mud-stained garments ; and now the tramp of six hundred porters, in addition to the vast crowd which had as- sembled to witness the long-looked-for ar- rival of the British .embassy, soon convert- ing the ground into a positive quagmire, ankle-deep in black mud, seemed to render utterly hopeless any attempt at the exhibi- tion of broadcloth and gold lace on the ap- proaching presentation at the court of Shoa. The governors of Ank&bar and Alio Am- ba, whose special affair it was to provide food, and otherwise to render assistance needed, left the visitors to pitch their own tent while they lounged in the palls, and contented themselves with urging the in- stant gratification of the royal curiosity, which was momentarily becoming more and more intense. Persecution on the part of the unruly and boisterous mob, to whom every object was new, meanwhile waxed greater and greater — thousands pressing forward to gaze as at wild beasts, and all contributing their mite to produce confu- sion and discomfort, now at the climax. Sally after sally was imde by the uproused commander- in-chi©-'' of the body-guard, and many were th r f high official importance, and whose as- sumption of dignity proved singularly lu* dicrous. At length came a message ex- pressive of his majesty's unqualified sur- prise and satisfaction at the extraordinary celerity with which the guns were be- ing served, and his desire to see the em- bassy forthwith ; but attempting to ad- vance, opposition was again interposed, and it needed another message, and yet another command, before admission could be obtained to the royal presence— The last peal of ordnance was rattling in broken echoes along the mountain chain, as the British embassy stepped at length over the high threshold of the reception- hall. Circular in form, and destitute of the wonted Abyssinian pillar in the centre, the massive and lofty clay walls of the cham- ber glittered with a profusion of silver or- naments, emblazoned shields, matchlocks, and double-barrelled guns. Persian car- pets and rugs of all sizes, colors, and pat- terns, covered the floor ; and crowds of alakas, governors, chiefs, and principal of- ficers of the court, arrayed in their holiday attire, stood around in a posture of respect, uncovered to the girdle. Two wide alcoves receded on either side, in one of which blazed a cheerful wood fire, engrossed by indolent cats, while in the other, on a flow- ered satin ottoman, surrounded by wither- ed eunuchs and juvenile pages of honor, and supported by gay velvet cushions, re- clined in Ethiopic state his most Christian majesty Sahela Selassie. The deck aga- fari, or state door-keeper, as master of the ceremonies, stood with a rod of green rush- es to preserve the exact distance of approach to royalty, and as the British guests enter- ed the hall and made their bows to the throne, motioned them to be seated upon chairs that had previously been sent in — which done, it was commanded that all might be covered. The king was attired in a silken Arab vest of green brocade, partially shrouded under the ample folds of a white cotton robe of Abyssinian manufacture, adorned with sundry broad crimson stripes and borders. Forty summers, whereof eight- and-twenty had been passed under the un- easy cares of the crown, had slightly furrowed his dark brow, and somewhat grizzled a full bushy head of hair, arranged in elaborate curls, after the fashion of George the First ; and although consider- ably disfigured by the loss of the left eye, the expression of his manly features, open, pleasing, and commanding, did not in their tout ensemble belie the character for impartial justice which the despot has ob- tained far and wide — even the Danakil comparing him to " a fine balance of gold." All those manifold salutations and in- quiries which overwrought politeness here enforu, Sj duly concluded, the letters with which &e embassy had been charged — enveloped i n flowered muslin and rich gold kimkhao —were presented in a san- dal-wood casket,^ minutely inlaid with ivory ; and the comets having been read and expounded, the costly presents from the British government vere introduced in succession, to be spread -^ut before the glistening eyes of the court The rich Brussels carpet which completely covered the hall, together with Cachemiire shawls and embroidered Delhi scarfs of resplen- dent hues, attracted universal attention, and some of the choicest specimens were THE PRESENTS DELIVERED. 125 from time to time handed to the alcove by the chief of the eunuchs. On the intro- duction of each new curiosity, the sur- prise of the king became more and more unfeigned. Bursts of merriment followed the magic revolutions of a group of Chi- nese dancing figures ; and when the Eu- ropean escort in full uniform, with the sergeant at their head, marched into the centre of the hall — faced in front of the throne, and performed the manual and platoon exercises, amid jewelry glittering on the rugs, gay shawls and silver cloths which strewed the floor, ornamented clocks chiming, and musical boxes play- ing " God save the Queen," his majesty appeared quite entranced, and declared that he possessed no words to express his gratitude. But many and bright were the smiles that lighted up the royal features, as three hundred muskets, with bayonets fixed, were piled in front of the footstool. A buzz of mingled wonder and applause, which half drowned the music, arose from the crowded courtiers ; and the mea- sure of the warlike monarch's satisfaction now filled to overflowing. " God will re- ward you," he exclaimed, " for I cannot." But astonishment and admiration knew no bounds, as the populace next spread over the face of the hills to witness the artillery practice, which formed the sequel to the presentation of these princely gifts. A sheet was attached to the opposite face of the ravine. The green valley again rung to the unwonted roar of ordnance ; and as the white cloth flew in shreds to the wind, under a rapid discharge of round shot, canister, and grape, amid the crumb- ling of the rock, and the rush of the fall- ing stones, the before despised sponge- staves became a theme of eulogy to the monarch as well as to the gaping peasant. A shout rose long and loud over the peal- ing echoes which rattled from hill to hill ; and far along the serrated chain was pro- claimed the arrival of foreign guests, and the royal acquisition, through their means, of potent engines of war. Compliments from the throne, and per- sonal congratulations from the principal courtiers and officers of state, closed the evening of this unwonted display ; and the introduction, by the hands of the fa- vorite page, of a huge pepper pie, the produce of the royal kitchen, with a com- mand that " the king's children might feast," was accompanied by the unheard- of honor of a visit from the dwarf father confessor, who might without difficulty have concealed his most diminutive per- son beneath the ample pastry. Enveloped in robes and turbans, and armed with sil- ver cross and crosier, the deformed little priest, whose entire long life has been passed in doing good to his fellow-crea- tures, seating his hideous and Punch-like form in a chair placed for its reception, in. squeaking accents delivered himself thus : " Forty years have rolled away since Asfa Woosen, on whose memory be peace, grandsire to our beloved monarch, saw in a dream that the red men were bringing into his kingdom curious and beautiful commodities, from countries beyond the great sea. The astrologers, on being commanded to give an interpretation thereof, predicted with one accord that foreigners from the land of Egypt would come into Abyssinia during his majesty's most illustrious reign, and that yet more and wealthier would follow in that of his son, who should sit next upon the throne. Praise be unto God, that the dream and its interpretation have now been fulfill- ed ! Our eyes, though they be old, have never beheld wonders until this day ; and during the reign over Shoa of seven suc- cessive kings, no such miracles as these have been wrought in Ethiopia." CHAPTER XLVI THE CAPITAL OF THE KINGDOM OF SHOA. His Christian majesty passed the greater portion of the wet night succeeding the presentation of the British embassy, in re- vels amid the foreign riches so unexpect- edly heaped upon him. Every novel article was minutely examined with all the curi- osity of the savage ; and the royal scribes, having been duly assembled, elaborate in- ventories were penned upon scrolls of parchment, to be deposited for the edifica- tion of posterity in the archives of the kingdom. The fire-arms and the warlike munitions were transferred forthwith to the grand arsenal ; the rich manufactures of the loom were added to the shelves of the palace wardrobes ; and the curiosities, in- cluding the Chinese dancing girls, were carefully immured in the mouldy maga- zines of Mamrat, Kondie, and Aramba, with labels and tickets setting forth their respective properties, and proclaiming to future occupants of the throne of Shoa that these wonders were added to the state trea- sures by the red men called Gyptzis, who came " from beyond " during the auspicious reign of Sahela Selassie. Ere day had dawned, the favorite page 126 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. was deputed to inquire how the interval of rest had been passed by the king's guests, and whether all had slumbered happily. Etiquette demanded that the reply should be in the affirmative ; but if an estimate were formed from the drenched and mis- erable aspect of the tent, the report made to the palace must have been far from fa- vorable. In the absence of the cap, which had been lost upon the road, the fly of the marquee was hastily lashed with cords to the pole, and becoming saturated during the pelting storm which ushered in the dark hours, it had presently slidden down, and formed a funnel, which completely put an end to sleep. Hajji Kasim and Izhak, who, with some of their bigoted Moslem.. retainers, had re- paired to court to witness the reception of " the Christian dogs," had presented them- selves at nightfall, wet, shivering, and ■famished, to implore an asylum, which, together with food, had been denied by the officers of the royal household. Upon the principle of good for evil, the hunger of the applicants was at once appeased ; but the untoward fall of the canvas fabric had ren- dered migatory the hospitality extended in the form of bedclothes, to which each of the party had contributed his mite. Drench- ed to the skin, the true believers, spite of their covering of lard, were fairly swamped where they lay, and the ras el kafilah's pet Koran having been trampled under foot in the confusion attendant upon re-pitching, he angrily left the tent in the morning by one door, at the moment that the spoiled page entered by the other, grumbling as he went, " Allah ! how could the sacred vol- ume experience any better fate at the hand of infidels ?" Six hundred peasants, who had been pressed on the service of the state from the Mohammadan villages of Argobba, after transporting the king's baggage from Alio Amba to Machal-wans, had bivouacked without food or shelter upon the bare satu- rated ground, and were strewed over the greensward like the slain on a battle-field. As the day dawned, their loud cries of " Abiet, abiet" " Master, master," arose to the palace gates from every quarter of the valley ; but they lifted up their sad voices in vain, and reiterated entreaties for dis- missal passing unheeded, a number of oxen, sufficient to allay the cravings of hunger, were with great difficulty purchased by the embassy, delivered over for slaughter, and slain and eaten raw upon the spot. The sceptic in Europe, who still with- holds his credence from Bruce's account of an Abyssinian brind feast, would have been edified by the sight now presented on the royal meadow. Crowds swarmed around each sturdy victim to the knife, and im- petuously rushing in with a simultaneous yell, seized horns, and legs, and tail. A violent struggle to escape followed the assault. Each vigorous bound shook off and scattered a portion of the assailants, but the stronger and more athletic retained still their grasp, and resolutely grappling and wrestling with the prize, finally pre- vailed. With a loud groan of despair the bull was thrown kicking to the earth. Twenty crooked knives flashed at once from the scabbard — a tide of crimson gore proclaimed the work of death, and the hun- gry butchers remained seated on the quiv- ering carcass, until the last bubbling jet had welled from the widely-severed and yawning throat. Rapidly from that moment advanced the work of demolition. The hide was opened in fifty places, and collop after collop of warm flesh and muscle — sliced and scrap* ed from the bone — was borne offin triumph. Groups of feasting savages might now be seen seated on the wet grass in every di- rection, greedily munching and bolting the raw repast, and pounds were with all held of light account. Entrails and orTai did not escape. In a quarter of an hour nought remained of the carcass save hoofs and horns, and the disappointed vultures of the air assembling round the scene of slaughter with the village curs, found little indeed to satisfy their hunger. During this general carousal of the grateful host, the smooth-spoken purveyor- general, who was completely at a loss to comprehend the meaning of "the liberality extended, advanced with a sleek and pam- pered band of parasites. The assistance of the unfeeling functionary had been crav- ed in vain, and he now, after casting a con- temptuous glance toward the sated serfs, in honied words inquired with obvious sur- prise, " whether the party had not rested well, that they thus troubled their heads unnecessarily about the worthless bonds- men of the negoos V Preparatory to setting out for Ankober, the embassy had an audience of the king. " My children," quoth his majesty, " all my gun-people shall accompany you ; may you enter in safety ! Whatsoever your hearts think and wish, that send word unto me. Saving myself, ye have no relative in this distant land. Ye have travelled far on my affairs. I will give you what I can accord- ing to that which my country produces. I cannot give you what I do not possess. Be not afraid of me. Listen not to the THE METROPOLIS OF SHOA. 127 evil insinuations of my people, for they are bad. Look only unto Sahela Selassie. May his father die, he will accomplish whatsoever ye desire !" The sun shone bright amid the fleecy white clouds of an azure sky, as the party left the wet encampment in the valley, and under an escort of fusileers took the way to the capital, without that regret which is usually felt on quitting the pre- cincts of royalty. A green swampy mead- ow led to the foot of the mountains, over which numberless cascades foamed fu- riously to the plain. Supported from the base to the utmost summit by artificial ter- races, and clothed with the most luxuriant cultivation, there were parts over which it seemed hardly possible that the plough should have passed at so great an angle. But wheat and barley delight in a dry stony soil, and with a fair proportion of the "former and the latter rain," will here yield abundant return to those who by their industry strive to emulate the prosperity of more happily located neighbors. From Machal-wans to Ank&ber the dis- tance does not exceed six miles ; but the ascent is great -and immediate, and the re- duction in temperature perceptible in every step. Springs gushed out clear and spark- ling, on either side of the rugged path. Many beautiful plants, the pride of the greenhouse of exotics, luxuriated in the moist atmosphere. At intervals, farm- steadings varied the scene ; and, although the rich sheets of cultivation in the more immediate vicinity of the capital had some- what abstracted from the bloom of native verdure, still the prospect was delightful, and the change more than ever striking from the hot deserts of the Adaiel, which now at a yet greater depression, stretched away in fading tints to the extreme point of vision. The latter portion of the road lay through a forest of venerable trees. Cedar-like junipers, scarred by the unsparing hand of time, and many dried up by the wrath of centuries, rearing toward the cold sky their tall, withered, barkless trunks and skeleton arms, rocked to every breeze. Younger scions of the stock, clothed in a sombre cypress garb, flourished in vigor among the drooping and silvery tvoira, of which the pensive branches were hoary with ancient moss hanging in fanciful fes- toons ; and saving when the zephyr sighed through the foliage, or a bird whistled from the topmost branch, silence reigned throughout the sylvan scene. Whether in Europe or in half-civilized Abyssinia, monastic establishments are in- variably seated in spots the most romantic. Deep in the recesses of Aferbeine stands the church and monastery dedicated to Tekla Haimanot, an ecclesiastic of extra- ordinary abilities who flourished during the thirteenth century, and rescuing the great- er portion of the empire from the yoke of usurpation, restored it to the hands of Yekweno Amlak, the lineal descendant of the ancient Ethiopic dynasty. Subsequent- ly canonized for his successful exertions in the cause both of church and state, the monk, whose history is obscured with numberless superstitious traditions, is to the present day held in the highest odor and veneration. Thrice, during the year is a festival held in celebration of his birth, death, and ascension : and by the entire Christian population he is regarded as the patron saint of Abyssinia. Instantly on emerging from the forest, the metropolis of Shoa, spreading far and wide over a verdant mountain, shaped like Afric's appropriate emblem, the fabled sphynx, presented a most singular if not imposing appearance. Clusters of thatched houses of all sizes and shapes, resembling barns and haystacks, with small green in- closures and splinter palings, rising one above the other in very irregular tiers, adapt themselves to all the inequalities of the rugged surface ; some being perched high on the abrupt verge of a clifl^ and others so involved in the bosom of a deep fissure as scarcely to reveal the red earth- en pot on the apex. Connected with each other by narrow lanes and hedgerows, these rude habitations, the residence of from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants, cover the entire mountain-side to the ex- treme pinnacle — a lofty spire-like cone, detaching itself by a narrow isthmus to form the sphynx's head. Hereon stands the palace of the negoos, a most ungainly- looking edifice with staring gable-ends and numerous rows of clay chimney-pots, well fortified by spiral lines of wooden palisades, extending from the base to the summit, and interspersed with barred stockades, between which are profusely scattered the abodes of household slaves, with breweries, kitchens, cellars, storehouses, magazines, and granaries. Over those portions unengrossed by cul- tivation, or by architecture, shrubs and bushes and great beds of nettles assumed the most luxuriant and lively appearance. Huge fallen masses of rock strewed the lower valleys, and others, frowning at an acute angle upon the impending steeps, seemed ready to be launched at a mo- ment's notice upon the clustering habita- 128 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tions below; while in the distance, the bronze cross of the church of " our Lady," peeping above the dark foliage of the yew- like juniper, touched the string of strange sensations, surrounded as the spectators were by wild objects and by a wilder es- cort, above whose streaming locks floated bloody emblems that breathed aught save j conformity to the mild tenets of the Chris- tian religion. Anko, who was queen over the Galla tribe, by which this mountain was peopled from the invasion of Graan until its recon- quest by the crown of Shoa, has bequeath- ed her name to the narrow winding path which forms the " for" or gate to the sub- urbs * Skirting the brink of a yawning abyss, and scarcely wide enough for the foot of a mule, it is not traversed without a feeling of insecurity, and the labon of a few hours would suffice to render all ap- proach to the capital impracticable, unless tc the mountain goat. Loud cheers from the whole assembled population, female as well as male, greeted the arrival of the king's guest, the thunder of whose guns in the adjacent valley had given birth to a feeling of respect in the breast of all ; nor was it without considerable difficulty that way was nlade through the dense crowd that whitened the entire hill-side, and lined every valley. A newly erected building fronting the palace had been set apart by his majesty for the occupation of his visi- tors, and it was now completely thronged by porters, and beleaguered by clamorous spectators. Wistful looks were exchanged as the party entered this barn-like and dreary abode, which for months, if not for years, was to form their asylum. A decent new thatch, and a neat basket-work ceiling, did indeed form a roof to the structure, but further, the crude and unfinished shell whereon they rested, could hardly claim the denomination of " a house." It rath- ex resembled a den in Exeter 'Change, or an aviary upon a magnified scale ; and the open hide-lashed ribs, being innocent throughout of dab or plaster to choke the interstices, wind, rain, and mountain fog considered themselves to be equally his majesty's guests, entitled to the occupation of the uninviting interior. Oblong in form, windowless, chimneyless, and provided at either end with a lofty but narrow door, rudely fashioned of massive planks and beams, each of which, in the absence of a saw, had involved the demolition of an en- * Ankober is thus literally " the gate of Anko. 1 ' tire tree, the edifice yet afforded an unusu- ally favorable specimen of Shoan architec- ture ; and to account for its desolate and unfinished condition, it may be proper to add, that the proprietor, who had been honored with the fair hand of a princess of the blood-royal, having a few weeks previously been so unfortunate as to incur the displeasure of his despotic father-in- law, now* occupied apartments in the state prison, while the management of his es- tate was, ad interim, considerately under- taken by the crown, without even the preliminary of a fieri facias. Inner walls divided the centre room from two narrow verandahs, intended for the reception of mules, horses, and household lumber. The floor was precisely as nature made it, depressed rather than raised, and little improved by the many recent inun- dations to which it had been subjected. Torrents of muddy water rushed impetu- ously round the trench which environed the sntire structure, and occasionally burst- ing the banks of the dike, oozed copiously between the palisades, to cover the soil with artificial lakes ; while the small open area beyond, into which it disembogued — hemmed in on all sides by rank vegetation, stinging nettles, and half-ruined but nois- ily inhabited hovels — was, without any ex- aggeration, eighteen inches deep in honest mire. The pilgrimage thus finally terminated, the prospect, both within and without, was still altogether far from encouraging ; but the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer standing at 58°, it became necessary to adopt immediate measures toward the ex- clusion of the cold driving mist and the whistling wind, which the absence of a fire rendered far from agreeable. The union flag of old England, stretched across the hall, lent the aid of its ample folds to enliven the interior. Tent walls and tar- paulins composed tolerably comfortable, though straitened, cabins in the verandah closets. Gun-cases, placed on end, and connected by the lid of a chest, formed a highly enviable table, and with a puncheon as a washing-stand, and two swinging shelves overhead, completed the furniture of each apartment. Boxes and bales, as they continued to arrive, were piled around the inner walls, and soon towering to the ceiling, the appearance of a booth at a country fair, on a rainy day, ere the wares have been .exposed for sale, was gradually imparted to this highly unique residency in the capital of Shoa. THE RAINY SEASON— BANKS OF FOG. 129 CHAPTER XLVJI. RESIDENCE IN ANKOBER. But darkness now reigned within the cheerless abode, no less during the stormy nights than throughout the livelong day. Candles that will burn for more than ten minutes together, or afford light sufficient either to read or write, are luxuries which have no existence in so primitive and be- nighted a land : and strips of old cotton rags dipped in unpurified bees' wax, form- ing, like most other good things in the empire, a royal monopoly, are doled out by the purveyor-general to the favored few, with a sparing and niggard hand ; while the absence of glass or other transparent substance, and the continued presence of rain, sleet, and clouds, and fog thicker than the steam of a wash-house, rendered it for some time difficult to admit the scanty light of heaven during its fitful visits through the overcast atmosphere. Wood, too, belongs exclusively to the despot, and is far from being abundant in the timberless realm ; but packing-cases as they became empty, were furnished with a sheet of oiled parchment, and these admirable substitutes for glazed sashes, were, in defiance of exhortations not to de- face the king's walls, inserted therein, from time to time. A chafing dish, raised upon a high mud pedestal, at length cheer- ed the long dreary evenings, but the wet sodden fuel yielded a very feeble blaze, and its dense smoke, choking the chimney- less room, covered walls and roof with soot ; — and lastly, tallow dips manufac- tured of the fat tail of the Ethiopian sheep, afforded sufficient light by which to retire to bed, where fleas, revived by the un- wonted warmth • of English blankets, de- nied all rest. The low moaning of the storm behind Mamrat, and the distant growl of the thun- der, ushered in the darker hours. There was a sound as of the surf breaking over a rocky shore, and at the next instant the hurricane was at its height, careering mad- ly over Ankober. The rush of the fierce wind, and the dazzling flight of the levin bolt, madly strove for mastery in the race. Crashing reverberations of thunder rattled among the serrated cliffs like a, feu de joie of great guns : the prolonged roll of one deafening clap confounded with the burst of its successor, while the very gates of heaven seemed to open to the flooding of the earth with a deluge of water, which poured in sheets over the heights. Every lane and footpath throughout the town be- came a sluice ankle deep in running water, and ever and anon, so long as the night lasted, might be heard the distant boom, like the signal-gun of a vessel in distress. Dawn next revealed a strange phenom- The saturated earth, heated by the enon. rays of the rising sun, gave birth to an impenetrable vapor, which like a vast sheet of snow, lay extended in a solid mass full fifty miles across. The spectator rode upon a sea of billowy clouds which rolled be- neath his foot, lashing with their spray the dark islands formed by the peaks of the higher mountains ; and beyond, in the hot Adel plain, might be seen the Hawash, like a thread of burnished silver, winding and gleaming through the distance until melted into the limits of the sensible hori- zon. As the great bank of fog ascended, all around became wet and clammy to the touch ; and the mist, although sluggish and slow to move, was of a nature so keen- ly searching, that, in defiance of all muf- fling, it seemed to penetrate to the very bones of each shrinking mortal. Together with those privations which are common to a residence among all savage nations, there are many which Abyssinia claims exclusively as her own ; nor, if viewed only as a place of abode, does the country possess aught save the salubrity of the climate to counterbalance its manifold discomforts and disadvantages. Although in the midst of abundance, the utmost difficulty was experienced in ob- taining the most common necessaries of existence — bread, meat, and water ; and notwithstanding that a sufficiency of wheat to sustain life for an entire year may be purchased for one German crown, yet where the stranger is concerned, the grain without assistance of the monarch, can scarcely be converted into the staff of life — the process entailing all the petty worry and annoyance which in other lands are solely undertaken and performed by me- nials. In a kingdom where the inhabitants are solely dependent upon the exertions of slaves, the difficulties are increased ten- fold to those who are obliged to employ hired domestics. The markets are at a great distance from the capital, and held at lengthy intervals between ; nor are they at any time so well supplied as to admit of the requisite weekly stock being pur- chased at any individual place. Hence much trouble and inconvenience arose from the necessity of dispatching messen- gers simultaneously to the various remote bazaars ; and very great difficulty was ex- perienced in preserving even the small 130 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. number of live stock required for consump- tion, in a country where all the surround- ing meadows pertain alike to the crown, and where hired labor is so difficult to be procured. While porters are not to be obtained unless through a direct mandate from the king, the unwillingness of mule owners to hire their cattle at the existing low rate, the displeasure and heart-burning of the authorities if a larger bribe were offered, the badness of the roads, and the steepness of the hills, all combine to render it a per- plexing matter to dispense with this spe- cies of service. On the other hand, the greatest difficulty is experienced in provi- ding the means of maintenance for a per- manent establishment of baggage horses with their attendants, owing* to the exist- ing necessity of distributing them in small lots, among the limited private grazing grounds in the vicinity, whence, when wanted, they are not to be obtained with- out infinite difficulty. Every arrangement, however minute in detail, or trivial in importance, here de- mands a sacrifice of time and temper in a tedious and lengthy conference, which, in accordance with the custom of the coun- try, must be carried on by the principal persons engaged in the transaction. No- thing whatever is to be purchased, nor can anything, however trifling, be accorded without the royal mandate, and when that is at last obtained, the applicant would ap- pear to be further than ever removed from the realization of his object. " It is done," is the mode of signifying that a request is granted, and the despot believes that to will is to accomplish ; but while his com- mands are usually obeyed more to the let- ter than in the spirit in which they have been given, his public officers embrace every opportunity of consulting the inte- rests of the privy purse, to the stranger's disadvantage. In utter abhorrence of the country and its inhabitants, the Moslem servants who accompanied the embassy from India, all took their departure, willing rather to brave the dangers and difficulties of a long jour- ney through the inhospitable deserts of the Ada'iel, than to prolong a hateful sojourn in Abyssinia. One half of the number were murdered on the way down, and the places of all long remained empty. In any part of the world it would be difficult to find domestics inferior to their Christian suc- cessors, all equally mangy from their diet, and glorying alike in vermin. The con- sumption of brundo, or raw beef, and the sleeping off a surfeit which, in its progress toward stupor exhilarated them to positive intoxication, formed the sum total of their services ; yet every idle noisy vagabond who was in the receipt of four pieces of salt per mensem, with the promise of a new cloth annually, value three shillings and ninepence sterling, held himself entitled to a permanent place before the drawing-room fire. All stipulated for one day out of the thirty on which to drink cosso, and during the other twenty-nine, few ever stirred without grumbling. Honesty is not prominent among the Abyssinian virtues, and the lack of it sometimes redounded to the discredit of the master. A youth who was intrust- ed with a star-dollar to purchase sheep in the adjacent market, ingeniously contrived to smuggle into the flock two for which he had not paid, being convinced that such an economical arrangement must prove highly agreeable to his employers, and thus lead to his own advancement. A hue and cry was raised on the discovery of the theft, and it required some time to persuade the magisterial authorities that the goatherd had not been defrauded with the cogni- zance of the bala-beit.* An afero or janizary had been specially appointed as a spy over the actions of the foreigners, and he speedily rendered him- self sufficiently obnoxious. Not satisfied with prying into the contents of boxes for the information of the purveyor-general, his immediate superior, he reported to the throne every the most minute circumstance that occurred, and was the originator of such serious mischief, that he was shortly turned out of the house in disgrace-, with an order never to show his face again. Ethiopia derived her faith from the foun- tain of Alexandria ; but how is her Chris- tianity disfigured by folly and superstition ! The intolerance of the bigoted clergy, who rule with the iron hand of religious ascend- ency, soon proclaimed the British worse than pagans, for the non-observance of absurd fasts and blasphemous doctrines ; and the inhabitants, priest-ridden to a de- gree, received their cue of behavior prin- cipally from their most despotic tyrant, the church. Unquies, the comus or bishop of Shoa, was the most open and undisguised in his hostilities. Beset by evil thoughts at an early age, he imitated the example set by Origines, the celebrated ecclesiastic, who lived 3 in the third century ; and so much is he respected by the monarch for his austerities and religious devotion, that his majesty invariably speaks of him as * Master of the house. CATHEDRAL OF ST. MICHAEL. 131 the strong monk." To him was traced a report that the embassy were to be sum- marily expelled the country, in conse- quence of the non-observance of the fasts prescribed by the Ethiopic creed, and be- cause a great lady, whose spies they were, was on her way from the sea-eoast, with a large military force, to overturn the true religion, put the king to death, and assume possession of all Abyssinia. On the festival of the Holy Virgin, the cemetery was thrown open wherein rest the remains of Asfa Woosen, grandsire to Sahela Selassie. It is a building adjoining the church of St. Mary ; and a message was sent soliciting the lord bishop's per- mission to visit the mausoleum. An inso- lent reply was returned, that since the English were in the habit of drinking cof- fee and smoking tobacco, both of which Mohammadan abominations are interdict- ed in Shoa, upon religious grounds, they could not be admitted within the precincts of the hallowed edifice, as it would be pol- luted by the foot of a Gyptzi. Divine service was nevertheless attend- ed in the less inimical of the five churches of the capital, and offerings were made ac- cording to the wont of the country. The cathedral of St. Michael, distinguished above all compeers by a sort of Chinese lantern on the apex, being invariably at- tended by the monarch, came first in order ; and after wading through the miry kennels that form the avenues of access, the slipper was unlaced in accordance with Jewish prejudice, and the foot of the heretic Euro- pean stepped upon a floor of muddy rushes. The scowling eye of the bigoted and igno- rant priest sparkled with a gleam of unre- pressed satisfaction at the sight of a rich altar cloth, glowing with silk and gold, which had been unfolded to his gaze ; and a smile of delight played around the corners of his mouth, as the hard dollars rung in his avaricious palm. A strange, though degrading and humil- iating sight, rewarded admittance thus gained to the circular interior of the sa- cred building. Coarse walls, only partial- ly white-washed, rose in sombre earth but a few feet overhead, and the suspended ostrich-egg — emblem of heathenish idola- try — almost touched the head of the vis- itors, as they were ushered in succession to the seat of honor among the erudite. In a broad verandah, strewed throughout with dirty wet rushes, were crowded the blind, the halt, and the lame — an unwashed herd of sacred drones, muffled in the skin of the agazin; and this group of turbaned monks and hireling beggars formed the only congregation present. The high priest, having proclaimed the munificence of the strangers, pronounced his solemn benediction. Then arose a burst of praise the most agonizing and un- earthly that ever resounded from dome dedicated to Christian worship. No deep mellow chant from the chorister — no soul- inspiring roll of the organ, pealing with the cadence of the anthem, lifted the heart toward heaven. The Abyssinian cathedral rang alone to the excruciating jar of most unmitigated discord ; and amid howling and screaming, each sightless orb was rolled in its socket, and every mutilated limb convulsed with disgusting vehemence. A certain revenue is attached to the per- formance of the duty ; and for one poor measure of black barley bread, the hired lungs w r ere taxed to the extremity ; but not the slightest attempt could be detected at music or modulation, and the dissonant chink of the timbrel was ably seconded by the cracked voice of the mercenary vocal- ist, as his notes issued at discretion. No liturgy followed the cessation of these hideous screams. The service was at an end ; and the aldka, beckoning the visitors to follow, led the way round the edifice. The walls were adorned with a few shields, and with miserable daubs re- presenting the Madonna, the Holy Trinity in ccelo, the Father of Evil enveloped in flames, St. Peter and St. Paul, St. George and his green dragon, St. Demetrius van- quishing the lion, St. Tekla Haimanot, St. Balaam and his ass, the Patron Saint, and every other saint in the Abyssinian calendar. But they boasted of no sculp- tured monument raised to departed w r orth or genius — no proud banner or trophy of heroic deeds — and no marble tablet to mark the quiet rest of the soldier, the statesman, or the scholar. In the holy of holies, which may be penetrated by none save the high priest, is deposited the sacred tabot, or ark of the faith, consecrated at Gondar by the delegate of the Coptic patriarch ; and around the veil that fell before this myste- rious emblem, there hung in triumph four sporting pictures from the pencil of Aiken, which had been presented to his majesty. They represented the great Leicestershire steeple-chase ; and Dick Christian, with his head in a ditch, occupied by far the most prominent niche in the boasted cathe- dral of St. Michael ! 132 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. CHAPTER XLVIII. INTERVIEWS WITH THE KING. Meanwhile, during the tedious fast ob- served by all classes in commemoration of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin, the king continued his residence at Machal- wans. On such occasions, his majesty seeks the retirement of a country-seat, and subsists upon fish, eaten raw, with vegeta- ble oil and pepper. He is moreover averse to occupy the palace at Ankober in the rainy season, when the elevated position of the isolated peak whereon it stands, be- comes a fearful mark for lightning, by which it is often struck ; while huge masses of rock, loosened from the adjacent heights, come thundering into the valley, to the annihilation of every house that op- poses their headlong course. The greater part of the court, however, continued to reside at the capital, and many were the demands made for presents by public offi- cers of the state, among whom the Abys- sinian habit of begging is sufficiently rife. " There be pleasing things in my coun- try which are not in yours," was the usual form of application, "and fine things in your country which are not found in mine." Well assured that no return would be ac- cepted for what they coveted, many had recourse to a species of refinement in the art of begging — the offer of block salt, to wit — and, amole in hand, they desired that the wares brought for sale might forthwith be exposed. Others tendered mamalachas, or trifling offerings, which, if once accept- ed, are considered to establish a claim to ready acquiescence in demands the most preposterous. Broken decanters were ex- hibited four times over by the domestics of the royal household, who, with tears in their eyes, entreated the price of the vessel as the only means of saving them from condign punishment. A shield was never defaced, nor a mule lost, that the delinquent did not refer himself to the residency, for the amount of fine imposed, and one of the imperial footmen finally sought to place beyond all question his right to appropriate the very cloth upon the table. " I am the waiter in the great banquetting-hall," quoth the modest applicant, "and therefore I re- quire this cloth as a dress." Nor were even the royal family idle du- ring this interval. Belete-Shatchau, " su- perior to all," a notable shrew lately divorced by the governor of Mans, and daughter of the queen by a former marriage — first in order — and then Worka Ferri, " golden fruit," another of the princesses royal — es- tablished their respective claims to articles of British manufacture, beads, chintz, and tinsel, by the presentation of potent hydro- mel in long-necked barilles, screened under wicker cases. Their example was speed- ily followed by the illustrious Queen Besa- besh, " thou hast increased," who begged to be informed what " delightful things " had been brought for her acceptance. But the report of this fact being immediately conveyed to the despotic ears, his majesty lost not a moment in hinting " that it were desirable that all presents intended for the palace, should pass through his own hands." It is not permitted to any subject of the realm to receive the smallest gift without submitting it forthwith to the negoos, who either appropriates it with an "Egzia isto!" " May the Lord reward thee !" or accords permission to its retention ; and conceal- ment is sure to be visited, on discovery, with the severest punishment. Birroo, the son of a defunct nobleman, and the espe- cially favorite page of the king, had been appointed baldoraba. or "introducer " to the embassy, and in this dignified capacity had occasion to pay almost daily visits with messages or commissions from the throne. Dilapidated matchlocks and swivels were to be re -stocked, musical boxes to be re- paired, garments to be embroidered, or state umbrellas to be renewed ; and every task had fortunately been achieved to the entire of the royal satisfaction. Before taking leave the court favorite never failed to beg for something, and, being a pet with all, he never asked in vain ; but it shortly became matter of public notoriety that he had been disgraced, and thrown into durance, upon being detected in the act of burying the dollars and other presents that he had re- ceived. A portion of the confiscated wealth which had led to this disaster being subsequently returned to the donors by the royal com- mand, strong intercession was instituted on behalf of the youth, and pardon entreated for the juvenile indiscretion to which his friends had unwittingly contributed. " Bir- roo has been degraded," replied his majes- ty, "but you must not be concerned thereat ; for not only did he conceal from me all that you had given him, but, on being detected, swore falsely upon my own life that he had received much less than proved to be the case. I have dismissed him for ever from my presence, but his punishment is light when compared with the enormity of his transgression." The delinquent was, how- ever, released upon a second representa- tion, and restored to the possession of his gun, which had been forfeited ; and although A ROYAL SWOON—DREAD OF POISON. 133 not reinstated in the royal confidence, he was subsequently appointed one of the adrdsh addree, or " keepers of the great room." The first visit to Machal-wans was paid on the occasion of the king's indisposition. The high priest, the chief eunuch, the pur- veyor-general, Wulasma Mohammad, and ten or twelve other of the courtiers, were in attendance ; but they were dismissed af- ter the customary compliments had passed, and his majesty, reclining as usual upon the throne, thus proceeded to detail the long catalogue of his ailments. " You may listen. I am not now so hale as in my younger days. Mine eyes trou- ble me day and night. I have pains in the neck. My teeth have grown long and be- come loose from fever, and my body has wasted away. Draw nigh while I recount the particulars of my late illness. " I was returning from the expedition against the rebel Galla. I felt suddenly unwell. My head grew giddy. The earth turned round. It became blue under my feet. I fell from my mule. I believed my- self dead. I was no longer sensible. My gun-men became afraid. They ran away to a man. The enemy made a show of at- tack. The army was in confusion. A governor rebelled. He sought to place his son upon the throne. The people dashed cold water over me. I recovered my senses. I was able to resume the command, and order was restored." Priest-ridden and superstitious to the last degree, the monarch undertakes nothing without first consulting the superiors of the church, and is deterred from change of resi- dence, or from projected military expedi- tions, by their prophecies and pretended dreams, which are of course modelled ac- cording to the bribes that have been received from parties interested. On two occasions only is he said to have acted in opposition to the ecclesiastical counsel. The first cost him eight hundred warriors, who were cut up by the Galla during the passage of a morass, and the second the severe indispo- sition of which he still felt the effects. The royal swoon, thus amusingly narra- ted, had been followed by consignment to captivity for life in the dungeons of Gon- cho, of the traitor who had so prematurely sought the elevation of his son, and who was the proprietor of the residency. Med- icines administered to the king are invaria- bly tasted by the physician in the presence of the patient, and on a phial of goulard lotion being now sent to the palace for ex- ternal application to the despot's neck, it was returned in consequence of its being labelled " poison." Of this he entertains the most undisguised dread, and it was not possible to overcome his apprehensions that a drop might find its way into his mouth during the hours of repose, and so cut short his reign. But although living in perpetual alarm of assassination, and never moving abroad without weapons concealed under his gar- ments, or unaccompanied by a numerous and trustworthy escort, his majesty's fears did not extend to his foreign guests, and du- ring many subsequent visits to Machal- wans, he hesitated not to trust the British of- fiers about his person with loaded fire-arms, when none of his attendants were present. Many were the curious discussions held at these confidential interviews. Portraits were executed by the royal command — architectural plans prepared — and hunting expeditions and wars of extermination plot- ted against colonies of baboons and mon- keys, the only quadrupeds of which the country can boast. Magazines were ex- ploded by means of detonating shells — seven-barrelled pistols and stick-guns for the first time introduced at court — and a liege subject of the realm was nearly shot dead by the royal hand, when clumsily making trial of an air cane, from, which a wax-bullet had previously been fired through the wicker table. " My son," quoth the king, " I am old, and have but few years more to live. I have seen many strange things from your country, but none that surpass this engine, which without the aid of gunpowder can destroy men. Sorrow were it that I should have died and gone down to the grave be- fore beholding and understanding so won- derful an invention. It is truly the work of a wise people, who employ strong med- icines !" CHAPTER XLIX. SPECIAL SUMMONS TO MACHAL-WANS. His majesty had more than once inti- mated his intention of holding consultation relative to his projected expedition on the termination of winter, and early one morn- ing an express courier arrived to desire the immediate attendance of his British guests. Blacksmiths and workers in silver were as usual plying their craft in the verandah, under the royal eye — artists were daubing red and yellow paint over the pages of the psalter, or illuminating the lives of the saints with white angels and sable devils THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. 134 —saddles and warlike furniture were in course of repair— spears were being bur- nished- gun-locks cleaned -and silver gauntlets manufactured ; but the artificers were all summarily dismissed, and the king, rising from his seat in the portico, beckoned his visitors to follow into the au- dience-hall. « Gaiia," "master,'' he cautiously be- ] C an '■ there is yet another subject upon which I am desirous of taking counsel, and wherein I need your assistance. It is my intention shortly to undertake an expe- dition to the great lake in Gurague. In it be many islands which contain the trea- sure of mv ancestors. There are jars fail- ed with bracelets of solid gold. There are forty drums made of elephant s ears, and manv holy arks pertaining unto ancient churches, besides seven hundred choice Ethiopic volumes, some of which have un- fortunately been defaced by the animals called ashkoko* Elephants abound on the borders. In the trees are found black leop- ards of a most ferocious nature, multiply- in* always among the branches, and never descending upon the earth ; and the waters of the lake, which are smooth as glass, and without bottom, teem with monstrous go- marij and with fish of brilliant colors, red, yellow, green, and blue, such as have nev- er before been seen. "Moreover, there are specifics against small-pox and other dreadful diseases. No resistance is to be anticipated, for the in- habitants, who are chiefly Christian monks, have often invited me. I must no longer delay to recover the lost wealth of my fore- fathers, and it is fitting that you, with the British officers who have come hither from a far country, should accompany me and construct boats. Hereof my people are ignorant, and your name as well as mine will therefore become great, and will live in the annals of this kingdom. " From the summit of a lofty hill near Aimellele,! have beheld through a telescope the lake and its tall trees, but the elephants came in numbers. I feared that my peo- ple would be destroyed. I ran, and they all ran with me. Now, what say you? What is your advice in this matter ? Are you able to build boats V' Models of skin-punts, gun-rafts, and a pontoon-train, upon the most approved de- sign, were prepared and submitted, with crews and ordnance complete, coupled with advice to construct these at Ankober while leisure served, and, never trusting to the weakness or non-resistance of a foe, to * Hymx Abyssitiicus. | Hippopotamus amphibious. take the field with ample means at disposal to meet every contingency. The king exDressed himself above all things pleased both with models and advice, which he de- clared to come from wise and expert sol- diers ; but he was still obviously undecided, and the fear of the wild beast and the lone forest at length kicked the vibrating beam. The castle-visions of glory mounted far out of reach, and the fickle ambition of the savage evaporated in a bluster of high- sounding phrase : " My people will weep at the carriage of such ponderous engines." " The prepara- tions must be made on the banks of the Hawash, or on the borders of the Lake Zooai, where timber grows abundantly. i A man of rank, one of the frontier gov- ! ernors, who resides near Aimellele, should I be summoned as guide to the expedition, I and might then be consulted." But the presence of the great functionary was ever | wanting — no further wish escaped the lips ' of the vacillating monarch— and, engrossed with the passing whim of the moment, the chivalrous project of the day had vanished. So passed the dreary winter on. The arrival in the kingdom of Shoa of the many valuable presents brought by the embassy, had not proven more agreeable to the traders from Gondar and Tigre who reside in Ankober, than to the narrow-mmded governor of Alio Amba. These men had [been in the wont of selling glass-ware, cloths, and fire-arms to the king at a very I considerable premium, and now did not fail to repeat and to improve the absurdities circulated by the mischievous Danakil, re- garding the foreign intruders. The Gypzis were pronounced eaters of serpents, mice, and other reptiles, and had come with the design of possessing themselves of the country by the aid of magic and medicine. Great umbrage was taken at the practice of toasting the wretched half-baked dough received, under the denomination of bread, from the royal stores ; and a soldier, who carried a metallic pitcher to the stream, was roundly taxed with having used charms to poison the water, which was consequently condemned as unfit for use until purified by the blessing of the priest. Predictions of the impending fate of Abys- sinia were derived from the fact of the foreigners employing instruments which read the stars ; and the despot was repeat- edly and earnestly warned to be upon his guard. But his majesty cut short these insinuations, by threatening to extract the tongues of three or four of the maligners, and paid no attention whatever to the threat of excommunication extended to him by MALICIOUS REPORTS— AYTO MELKOO. 135 the fanatic clergy of Aramba, who had de- clared the ban of the church to be the just punishment due for the admission into the empire " of red heretics, who ought care- fully to be shunned,, since they practiced witchcraft, and by burningthe king's bread, threatened to bring a famine upon the land." Taking their cue from the feelings of the people, the Shoan sorcerers gave out that Sahela Selassie was to be the last of the Ethiopian dynasty, descended from the house of Solomon, who should sit upon the throne of his forefathers, and that a foreign king would come by way of Alio Amba, to usurp the dominion. It is amusing to trace the progress of these crafty insinuations among an ignorant and weak-minded people. In some of the nor- thern provinces it was confidently asserted that the sultan of the Mohammadans had already conquered Shoa, and that all the surrounding Moslem potentates were about to unite with him in a war of extermination against the Christians ; while in others it was believed that an alaka, or chief of the Gypts from Grand Cairo, had contrived to-smuggle himself into the capital, carry- ing his sovereign in a box, and that after consulting the heavenly bodies until a fa- vorable horoscope was presented, he stamp- e li nis foot upon the ground, which opened, and ten thousand red soldiers, with beards flown^ to their girdles, springing forth out of the cJnsm, placed the aforesaid monarch upon the ti«.o ne . « Now," said the magi- cians, 'will X^eodorus arise, according to the tradition that v., will come in the latter days of Ethiopia, ana create a kingdom of peace. to Theodorus was one oi the emperors who reigned during the fifcee^ cen turv and was canonized. It is recoi4 ec j that during the observance of his festive t he queen-dowager had prepared a great entt*. tainment, and the guests being all assem- bled, the heavens rained down a shower of fishes ready roasted. In the Ethiopic liturgy, the miracle is thus commemorated : " Peace be upon thee, kinsr of the Agaazi nation, Theodorus, Son of the Lion ; thy memory shall this day be celebrated with the slaughter of oxen and sheep, with which alone Zion Mogass, thy mother, kept it not, for the clouds also dropped fishes." It is confidently believed that the saint will rise again from the dead, and reign a thousand years, during which PT* n f^ er war ' famine > nor discord, is to disturb the happiness of Abyssinia. CHAPTER L. TERMINATION OF WINTER. In due process of time, spite of the de- nunciations of the fanatic priesthood, the silver and beef of the foreigners attracted the denizens of the adjacent villages, and a respectable retinue was acquired, such as an Abyssinian deems indispensable on all excursions abroad. A house better ade- quate to the wants of the party had been purchased, and the bargain duly concluded according to the custom of the country by an oath on the life of the despot ; but this was shortly annulled through the officious interference of the governor of the town ; and it was not until the eleventh hour, when the rain had begun to abate, that the master of the horse was prevailed upon to rent his newly-erected domicile. A fat ox having been slaughtered to drive out the devil, was handed over to the domestics, and the tenants, wading through the blood which flowed over the threshold, duly en- tered upon the premises, and quaffing" with the burly landlord several horns of old hy- dromel for good luck, the Union Jack float- ed over the new Residency. u Have you a better house than this in your country ?" he inquired : "I suspect not." Ayto Melkoo, the baldaras, or king's master of the horse, has under his charge the royal stud, saddles, and accoutrements, as also the workers in leather — is equery in waiting, and conservator of pastures and meadows pertaining to the crown. He is moreover the greatest gourmand in the kingdom ; and condescending to honor the denounced Christians with his com- pany at the house-warming, did ample jus- tice to the novel viands that were placed before him. He even submitted to the in- novation of a silver fork, and politely par- took of salad, notwithstanding his firm conviction that the undressed vegetable Would cause a return of ailments to which he kad been a martyr in youth. The cir- culation of water & r the ablution of fin- gers caused no little diversion on the re- moval of the cloth ; but the marasquino which followed, was unhesitatingly pro- nounced to be a nectar fit for princes alone. " Were but the negoos aware with what good things the 'board of you English is spread," he exclaimed, smacking his lips after the last glass, "his majesty would come and dine with you as often as you chose to invite him." " But let me give you a lesson in polite- ness," added the old man, when, in reply to his abrupt intimation of intended depar- 136 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ture, he was wished a " safe entrance to his house," in accordance with Abyssinian etiquette — " You should have said 'stay.' " " Such is not the fashion of the countries across the water," was the reply : " every man is permitted to withdraw as he lists, and be happy in his own way." " Ay, ay," returned the guest ; " but then if you had pressed me to tarry, I would at all events have stopped with you until the moon rose. Do you see ?" The fast of the Assumption having meanwhile terminated, the king announced his intention of removing to Angollala, his favorite place of residence ; and thither, in defiance of excessively heavy rain, he set out on the day appointed by the house- hold priests. "My children," said his majesty, at parting, " ye have travelled far on my account, and have no kinsman sa- ving myself. My people are bad people, and I am sorry thereat. They bring me daily all manner of reports, regarding yourselves and your evil intentions. The rumors have doubtless reached your ears ; but ye must not suppose that Sahela Se- lassie believes one of them. Ye are my friends, and I will deal with you accord- ingly. I will that ye come shortly to De- bra Berhan, and witness the great annual review at the feast of Maskal. Ayto Wolda Hana shall conduct you." But the important functionary thus se- lected, was of all others arrayed in the most open hostility ; and, unlike the majority of his avaricious colleagues, his enmity had been proof against overtures and advances. " I am a lone man," he invariably replied, " and have neither wife nor child. Gray hairs have come out on me. I am the son of sixty years. I want nothing in this world but the favor of the king," To judge from appearances, the pinnacle of his loyal ambition had already been attain- ed. Governor of Ank&ber, and president of the mddi belt, or kitchen, wherein ar* - prepared hydromel, pepper-soup, and s"ur beer — comptroller of all the royal prv«ers, and of the household slaves, who are the hewers of wood and the carriers of water, who grind, bake, express oil, and manufac- ture candles — receiver-general into the im- perial magazines of all tribute in cotton, grain, thread, sheep, and poultry — and charged with the superintendence, the erection, and the repair, of all public build- ings throughout the realm, as well as with the arrangement of the interior economy of the capital — Ayto Wolda Hana can have little left to desire ; and so conscien- tiously does he acquit himself of these manifold onerous duties, that it is affirmed his royal master could scarcely exist with- out him. A visible diminution in the male popu- lation of Ankober, follows the departure of the monarch to either of his more distant places of residence. During his absence the administration of affairs devolves chiefly upon Ayto Kidana Wold, who may be termed the viceroy. In charge of the se- cret police and magisterial department, he adjusts all private differences, watches over the public safety, and besides minis- tering daily to the wants of all consigned to him, gives annually three great enter- tainments at the expense of the crown. He has been honored with the hand of Woizoro Askuala Work, sister to the queen-dowager, and the receipt of the promised invitation to Debra Berhan, re- quiring an intimation of intended depar- ture, afforded an opportunity, which had long been sought, of making the acquaint- ance of this stately dame. Seated in the utmost Abyssinian pomp, and surrounded by a goodly train of slaves, pages, and handmaidens, she received the visitors with the greatest affability ; and in the temporary absence of her lord, expressed the highest gratification at the attention paid, although unable to accept the pres- ents offered, from an apprehension of the royal displeasure. But conversation during a morning" call is here little more than a string of the most earnest and pathetic inq^ries res- pecting one's health, and +^at of one's wife, relatives, and child*^ n - Even two old crones who are oh lousl y tottering on the very brink of t^ grave, and who are afflicted with e^ rv P ain and with every sorrow entail D Y the fall of our first parents, v* er me et in the street without Indulg-^g m a string of good wishes which arP .eiterated so long as their breath will permit. " How are you ? How do ye do ? How have you passed your time ? Are you well ? Are you very well 1 Are you quite well ? Are you perfectly well 1 Are you not well ? — are questions which serve as the prelude to a thousand other interrogatories ; and at each response the Deity must be invoked as to the unadul- terated happiness and perfect felicity that has been unremittingly experienced since the last meeting. Should the encounter take place twen- ty or even a hundred times during one and the same day, a repetition of the ceremony is enforced, and for each progressive stage of morning, noon, evening, and night, there exists a distinct set of phrases, which, from the never-ending repetition, THE DEVIL'S MILL— THE KEYS OF THE NILE. 137 are grating and wearisome. Passengers stand in the lane, denude their shoulders, and roar out salutations intended for the inmates of huts some hundred yards from the hedge. The slumberer is started from sleep by the dinning " How do ye do ?" from some gentleman passing ere the day has dawned to his country residence ; and from morning until even-tide, the ears are assailed by a most harassing and afflicting tissue of polite inquiries from every indi- vidual of whatever rank, who may think proper to pass himself off as an acquaint- ance. 'CHAPTER LI. DEBRA BERHAN, THE HILL OF GLORY. In Shoa the preliminaries of a journey are replete with noise, inconvenience, and confusion. Friends come to " see you off," an indispensable piece of etiquette, and the lounging townspeople, who have at no time much business of their own, flock to assist the traveller, by filling the court- yard, choking the doorway, and amusing themselves by canvassing the property packed. Should rain be falling, which is too frequently the case, the rabble take shelter inside the house, subject every ar- ticle within their reach to the pollution of greasy paws, leave the carpet an inch thick in mire, and unless by dint of shoving and elbowing, debar all egress to the lawful proprietor. It was in the midst of attentions such as these on the part of the idlers of Anko- ber, that the embassy on a raw, cold, foggy morning in September — the last of the Ethiopic year — took the road to Debra Ber- han. The sun was already high when the sure-footed mules were mounted, and as the retiring mist scudded over the face of the mountains, many were the bold beau- ties revealed. Cascades tumbled down the stupendous range on the one hand, amid snug houses and tufted knolls, and on the other, at the foot of perpendicular crags thundered the river Airara. On its bank stands the only piece of machinery in the kingdom — a rude watermill con- structed by an Albanian visitor ; but the intolerant and ignorant priesthood pronoun- cing the revolution of the wheel to be the work of devils and genii, its use was in- terdicted after three days, and it has since remained silent. Beyond the ford of the foaming torrent the road becomes extremely rough, steep, and difficult ; in many parts rising almost 10 perpendicularly, while every traverse is ac- clivitous and stony. The first traveller in all the vigor of pristine strength, has been unable to breast the mountain side outright ; and, untouched by the hand of the pioneer, the zigzag route of the dis- coverer has been preserved in all its orig- inal purity. The craggy rock remains as in ancient days, and the narrow and slip- pery channel must be still threaded with the same risk as when the first bold foot was planted on the serrated ridge ; while the torrent of centuries has indented the furrow yet deeper, and added the impedi- ment of slimy residuum. The range whereof the Chaka forms a part, divides the streams that flow into the Nile, from those which are tributary to the Hawash ; and the ascent above Anko- ber being not less than two thousand feet, the difference in temperature on the sum- mit was fully perceptible. Half an hour was occupied in the scramble to a crum- bling basaltic pillar styled " Koom dingai" "the standing stone," which very aptly transfers its name to this most indifferent pass to the new capital of Shoa. Mamrat still towered overhead full three or four thousand feet, making its total height above the level of the sea at least thirteen thou- sand ; yet is snow a stranger to its cloud- capped summit, and indeed to the language of all Amhara, south of the cold mountains of Simien. It is from June to September, while the sun is vertical in Ethiopia, that old father Nil us carries plenty into " the land of mar- vels" — and rolling on to its mouths in soli- tary grandeur, without receiving a single tributary in its long course of thirteen hundred and fifty nautical miles below the junction of the Tacazze, it may fairly be stated that Abyssinia holds in her Chris- tian hands the inexhaustible riches of Egypt. Hatze Tekla Haimanot the Great, had therefore reason on his side, when in the beginning of the twelfth century he wrote under the style of " son of the king of the church of ^Ethiop to the pacha and the lords commanders of the militia at Grand Cairo, desiring attention to the fact that in himself, for the time being, was vested power to render the Nile an instru- ment of vengeance for overt acts of hos- tility — the Almighty having given into his hands, its fountains, its passage, and its increase ; and thus intrusted him with power to make the river work good or evil." Among the numberless fictions recorded of this emperor, it is said, that when he was about to relinquish the cares of gov- 138 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ernment in order to retire to a cloister, he divided his countless wealth with his feet into two parts, the one designed as an of- fering to the church, the other to be dis- tributed in alms among the poor : and both heaps, although mountain high, were, on being weighed, found exactly equal. La- libela, one of his successors, is believed to have attempted the diversion to the Indian Ocean and the Lake Zooai, of all those principal tributaries to the Nile which take their source in the highest table land. The measure was in resentment for the persecutions exercised toward the Chris- tians in Egypt after the Saracen conquest, and the monarch was only diverted from his gigantic project by the earnest remon- strance of the monks, who strongly urged the impolicy of fertilizing the arid Moslem countries that intervene betwixt the moun- tains and the sea. On the summit of the Chaka commences an uninterrupted terrace, stretching hun- dreds of miles to the southward, through the fair territories of the Galla. Glimpses of blue sky, of a brightness unseen for months, now gave happy presage of com- ing fine weather, and a cold bracing breeze from the eastward announced the termina- tion of the protracted season of rain. The country had assumed the uninteresting character inseparable from elevated downs — rich swampy meadows, knee-deep in mire, clothed with camomile, clover, and trefoil, and covered with oxen, horses, and sheep, being intersected by gentle undula- tions of moor land, with occasional ovi- form hills. Bare-banked rills, streaming through the lower tracts, succeed each other in quick succession, and drain the table-land to the sources of the Bereza ; while the great extent of ground under cultivation, waving crops of wheat, beans, and barley, with independent farm-houses scattered over the face of the landscape, proclaim a government which cannot be of a very bad description, and regions long exempt from the presence of inimical power. Across the Toro Mesk, the principal streamlet that intersects the road, and the sources of which are visible at a great dis- tance to the northeast, is a rude pile of stones bearing the dignified appellation of "the King's Bridge." Johannes, the Ar- menian architect, received the hand of a high-born dame in reward of his skill, and by none save the despotic foot is the bar- red entrance ever passed. Two other bridges, or rather drains, have since been constructed upon the same primitive prin- ciple over nameless but rapid rivulets, and if not very durable, serve greatly to facili- tate the royal progress at perids when the country is inundated. During the reign of the sire and grand- sire of the present monarch, the entire tract between Ankcber and Debra Berhan was in the hands of the heathen Galla ; and Tenna Kaloo, the last daring chieftain who disputed its possession, has left in the minds of the present generation the recol- lection of his prowess in arms, as evinced to their fathers, numbers of whom fell in the strife. Not a tree, nor even a shrub higher than the Abyssinian thistle, is to be seen, save here and there a solitary " cosso" whose venerable boughs, the wit- nesses of idolatrous rites, mark the ancient site of villages now gone to decay. Flour- ishing Christian hamlets have risen in their stead ; yet the visible population is small, and the long naked sweeping plains, silent and lonesome, present a stern and melan- choly appearance, which the absence of groves and hedges and singing birds tends materially to heighten* The vulture and the eagle are alone seen wheeling above the green cliffs, or a solitary buzzard soar- ing in quest of his prey over the great sheets of cultivation. Shepherds, wearing high conical hempen caps, lay ensconced, with their large shaggy dogs, under the shelter of knolls and caves ; and in some few of the fields, where last year's crops were yet unhoused, or the land remained untilled, the peasantry pursued their indus- trious occupation. At length the monotonous view opened over a wide plateau sloping gently to the west. The blue serrated peaks of Sallala Moogher, beyond which flows the infant Nile, loomed faintly in the distance, and the intervening country, still destitute of wood, was traversed by broad, broken, pre- cipitous ravines. On a hill to the north- ward is visible the extensive market-place of Bool Worki, " the cave of gold," a great mart for horses, mules, and woollen cloths, which, with grain, asses, and horned cattle, are brought every Saturday by the adja- cent Galla tribes, and, when sold, pay a heavy duty to the crown. To account for the name of the place, there is a tradition extant, that in days of yore, many holy arks, with vast quantities of the purest gold, were deposited by the emperors of Ethiopia in a certain deep cave, having a bottomless lake interposed to save them from the grasp of the avaricious. Its waters form the abode of a legion of evil spirits, whose alaka gratuitously exhibited himself one market-day, mounted upon an ambling mule loaded with massive golden ARRIVAL AT DEBRA BERHAN. 139 trappings, and attended by a black cat, wearing about its neck a bell of the same costly metal — a sight quite sufficient to deter intrusion on the part of the curious. A cluster of white-roofed houses, strag- gling beyond the walled palace and the church of the Holy Trinity — long indis- tinctly visible — now rose rapidly to view ; and a small eminence having been as- cended, the goal was presently attained. As the party passed the royal lodge, a page, mounted on one of the king's horses, rode forth to reconnoitre, and, taking a hasty glance, galloped oif to make his report. The customary announcement through an aliero, who has always access to the palace, elicited a pair of monstrous Galla rams, which were thrust into ob- servation while the message which fol- lows — one strictly in accordance with Abyssinian etiquette — was delivered with shoulders bare by him to whom it had been confided : " Are you well 3 Are you well 1 Are you well 1 Have you been quite well since our last interview ] Are you all well ? Have my children had a good journey ? Have they entered in safety ? My love amounts to heaven and earth ; therefore the king said, they might eat these sheep." Woollen awnings wrought of goat's hair, and resembling the black tents of Kedar, had meanwhile been erected on the greensward, and arrival therein was instantly followed by bread in wicker baskets, old hydromel in colored decanters, and compliments in profusion from the queen. Many of the courtiers paid visits in the evening, too evidently fresh from the royal banquet, which is daily spread in the great hall, and from which few ever rise in a state of sobriety — their amount of friendship professed, and the modicum of flattery bestowed, being in the exact ratio of the potations swallowed during the revel. Glimmering lights soon illu- mined the straggling hamlet — dancing and singing occupied both sexes of the inhab- itants — and with almost as much pomp and ceremony as in more civilized lands, the departed year was consigned to its last long resting-place in the relentless tomb of Time. CHAPTER LII. THE ROYAL SLAVE DEPOT. No royal residence can be conceived more desolate and less princely than the palace at Debra Berhan, " the Hill of Glo- 10* ry." Crumbling walls of loose unce- mented stone, patched in their various breaches and dilapidations by splintered palisades, surround a vast assemblage of wattle and dab edifices, of various shapes and dimensions, which are clumped to- gether in separate court-yards, without any regard to appearance. Six rude gate- ways on the southern side conduct through as many miry inclosures, lined with troops, and crowded with herds, flocks, and appli- cants for justice. A paddock, covered with bright green turf, extends in front of the chamber of audience. Hoary junipers stretch their moss-grown branches fantas- tically over the lawn, and at the farther extremity of the inclosure rise the moul- dering remains of the palace of Zara Ya- coob. This monarch, who was the founder of Debra Berhan, is reputed to have been endowed with the wisdom of Solomon, his great ancestor ; and the vestiges that re- main of his abode, certainly exhibit an order of architecture far superior to that of the present degenerate day. It has been composed of large blocks of hewn though unsculptured stone ; but, in com- mon with every other boasted edifice erected in the height of Ethiopic splendor, it perished during the reign of Nebla Dengel, by the hand of the destroyer Graan. Hatze Zara Yacoob first attached capital punishment to the continuance of idolatry. He instituted an inquisition, and persecuted with death all who paid adoration to the cow and serpent. Among others who underwent execution, were two of his sons-in-law; and he finally issued a proclamation, confiscating the lands of all who should thenceforth neg- lect to carry on the right arm an amulet inscribed with the words, "I have re- nounced the Devil and his works for Christ Jesus our Lord." Tradition asserts that " the Hill of Glo- ry," now barren of trees, was in days of yore thickly covered with forest, through which ran a single path. In the begin- ning of the fifteenth century the founder, who was also styled Constantine, fled into its depths before an invasion of the Ada'i- el, and becoming bewildered in the intri- cacies, hurried hither and thither, exclaim- ing in his dilemma, " Ber eza, her eza ?" " Where is the road ?" Suddenly there shone forth over the eminence a great halo of light from heaven, which served him as a beacon by which to escape out of the labyrinth. In some of the adja- cent swamps are to be seen the ancient remains of decomposed timber, and a few 140 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. venerable junipers still survive within the palace inclosure ; but beyond these monu- ments of antiquity the truth of the legend rests solely on the name of the river Be- reza, a tortuous stream winding round the foot of the hill, and forming one of the principal sources of the Blue Nile. Tegulet, " the city of the wolves," the capital of all Abyssinia in her brighter days, and a spot untrodden by European foot since the visit of Father Alvarez, forms a conspicuous feature in the view presented from the village. Occupying a command- ing promontory, round which flows the river Salacha, it is environed by singular bluffs ; and one natural fissure, visible from a great distance, affords the only practica- ble ascent to the impregnable fortress, upon which the Galla, in the meridian of their power, were unable to make the slightest impression during reiterated attempts to carry it by storm. The alaka of Tegulet is superior also of the celebrated shrine of Sena Markos, a saint of the days of Tekla Haimanot. The monastery, named after its founder, occupies a similar inaccessible fastness, overlooking a part of the valley of the Nile, and the whole of the north and west of Shoa, as far as the chain of lofty mountains which here form the bulwark of the Christian kingdom. The view from the village of Etteghe, near Tegulet, is so extensive that it has given rise to a proverb, " From Etteghe is the Echegue or Grand Prior of the monks to be seen at Gondar." Forty-four rivulets, corresponding in number with the churches of that city, are said to pay tribute through this district to the Adabai, which sends its waters down the Jumma to the Nile ; their short course of little more than one hun- dred and fifty miles, involving so rapid a declination to the westward, that nearly all have cataracts in some part, and are con- sequently destitute of finny inhabitants. The entire environs of Tegulet are inter- sected by the beds of rapid torrents, hav- ing high precipitous banks, which afford few accessible roads, whether to man or beast — a fact to which this portion of Shoa may be concluded to have owed its secu- rity during the inpourings of heathen and Mohammadan hordes. Tegulet- wat, " the devouring depths," a fathomless abyss yawning on the banks of one of these streams, and described as the habitation of demons, is believed by the superstitious to communicate with the " great water." It proved the grave of numerous Christian warriors, who during the bloody contest with the Adaiel plunged unexpectedly into its dark bosom, and were heard of no more. It was at the close of the fifteenth cen- tury that Mafoodi, the bigoted king of Hur- rur, unfurling the green banner of the Prophet, commenced those devastating in- roads upon the frontiers of Shoa, which finally led to the dismemberment of the Ethiopic empire, and proved the greatest calamity that has befallen the country. Under a vow that he would annually spend the forty days of Lent among the Abys- sinian infidels, he overran Efat and Fatigar when the people, weakened by rigorous fasting, were less capable of bearing arms — burned churches and monasteries, slew without mercy every male who fell in his way, and driving off the women and chil- dren, sold some into foreign slavery, and presented others to the sheriffe of Mecca. Alexander, the then reigning emperor, was assassinated at Tegulet by Za Selassie, commander-in-chief of the royal body- guard, who had been bought over by Ma- foodi. • The eyeballs of the regicide were seared with a rsd-hot iron ; his hands and feet were chopped off, and he was stoned to death amid the curses and execrations of the populace, after he had been paraded on an ass, in this mutilated condition, throughout Shoa and Amhara. Debra Berhan is one of the principal de- pots for the numerous royal slaves, the pos- session of whom casts the foulest blot on the character of the Christian monarch. A strange clatter, and a Babel-like mix- ture of tongues, greets the ear of the visi- tor, and the features of many races, and of many nations, are distinctly visible among the crowd that throngs the gate, although all are alike enveloped in the disguising costume of Abyssinia. The huge black Shankela, with blubbeT lip and bloodshot eye, is resting for a mo- ment against the broken wall, and stretch- ing a brawny limb which might have sup- ported the bully Hercules himself. Grin- ning from ear to ear as his burly neighbor sports some savage joke in licence unre- strained, he seizes with a three-horse power his bundle of split wood, which two Am- hara could with difficulty raise, and poising it like a feather upon his woolly head, walks away in all the vigor of a young giant With his own approving eye the mon- arch has selected this specimen from a lot of powerful negroes captured beyond the Nile, and fifteen silver crowns must not be light- ly squandered, even by the great sovereign of Southern Abyssinia. Rations are well supplied to support the sinewy form, and unless on a cold raw day, when the soak- ing rain has penetrated every thread of his BONDSWOMEN— THE QUEEN'S HANDMAIDEN. 141 black blanket* and the shivering frame brings vividly to mind the difference of cli- mate, the enslaved pagan in his present condition, as hewer in the royal forests, enjoys himself fully as well as if ranging in savage liberty over his own free country of the sun. Not so the scowling Galla who follows in his rear. The spirit of roving inde- pendence is still unsubdued in his fiery eye, and the slender figure and the bent leg proclaim the wild rider of the grassy plain. Heavy and heartbroken, he plods along under a burthen to which his strength is quite inadequate; and the groan escapes from his lips, as the bitter thoughts enter iiis soul of the disgraceful lash of the task- master that perhaps awaits his return, and he remembers the lost wife and little ones whom he has for ever left on the distant savannas of the Hawash. Issuing from the gateway under the au- thority of a bloated eunuch, a numerous flock of brown damsels take their way to the river. Heavy earthen jars are slung over their slender backs, and the light forms of the unfortunates are little concealed by their torn and scanty attire. These are newly purchased Christians from the last Gurague caravan, and the language of the Amhara is still strange to their ear. Gar- lands of the yellow buttercup deck the plaited raven locks of each captive maid, and a plaintive song is chanted in soft mel- low notes to beguile the hours of toil. But the lines of slavery have already found place among their youthful features, which pos- sess beauty unknown to those of their op- pressors. The low chorus swelling mourn- ful and piteous from the band, has recalled thoughts of home and liberty to the joyless breast, and the sad tear is brushed from the long dark eye-lash at the recollection of happier hours spent in their own sweet land of spices. Following close behind, comes a group of favored dames of a certain age, from whose minds time has effaced all remem- brance of country and of kindred. Exalted to the post of mistresses of the royal brew- ery, and decked out like the first ladies of the land, in flowing garments resplendent with crimson stripes, they have little reason to wish for a change of condition. Bars and studs of solid silver load their perfo- rated ears, and ponderous pewter bangles encircle each wrist and ankle. Their wigs, arranged according to the most becoming fashion in minute rows of tiny curls, glis- ten under a sheen of butter, and their fat cheeks, plastered with grease and red pig- ment, are calculated to strike respect into the heart of the most indifferent beholder. The unceasing clack and clatter tell the tale of the wonted freedom of female tongue, but the small jar with the green branch protruding from the narrow neck, is strap- ped over the breast with the thong of sla- very ; and the attending eunuch, with his long thin wand — an emblem of his own withered person — proclaims the fact that the ladies cannot roam at pleasure over the verdant raead, but must restrict themselves in the beaten path according to the cracked voice of their driver. Seated upon a gayly caparisoned mule, amid the jingling of bells and brass orna- ments, the general of the gun-men proceeds in state across the green parade. He is attired in the richest garments that the land can produce. A glaring cloth of red silk is wound about his brow, a silver sword decorates his right side, and fifty robed fol- lowers attend his every behest. But he too is a slave, as was his father before him, and as his son will be after him. All the bones and sinews of his attendants are the pur- chased property of the monarch, and it is only by the imperial will and pleasure, which may be changed to-morrow, that he is now ambling in chintz and satin to dine at the royal board, instead of holding place in the foremost group, with a black blanket over his shoulder, and a load of wood upon his head for fuel in the royal kitchen. Here comes a demure damsel from the harem, disfigured by all the foul garments and native filth which delight the inhabit- ant of Shoa. It is Wuletta Georgis, one of her majesty's confidential slaves, and she is revolving in her mind, how, in executing her mistress's commission, she can contrive to promote her own interests. Born and bred in the palace, the Abigail is ordinarily treated with kindness, unless the fracture of a little decanter, or the unbidden attack upon some savory dish, involve a little wholesome correction. Unlike the philo- sophical maid in Rasselas, who had broken the porcelain cup, she needs pecuniary aid, and thus is her request sobbed out : " Only one dollar to replace the queen's looking- glass, and may God reward you !" But the sob is evidently assumed for the occa- sion, and a sly glance may be detected in the corner of her cunning eye, to observe the effect of her false appeal. The full price of the fractured mirror has already been received from three several individ- uals, and her mistress will assuredly confis- cate the profits ; but the tenure of property during even one short half hour, possesses charms irresistible, and the poor girl falls 142 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. prostrate on the ground, as the silver is dropped into her unwashed fingers. A last group is struggling through the gateway. The aged and the infirm, who can still perform a light task, have just re- ceived their daily dole from the royal store- house at the niggard hand of the pampered steward. The vigor of their youth has been expended in the service of the despot, and now in the evening of life, the original scanty pittance is yet further reduced. A wistful glance is cast upon the handful of raw barley, which must content them until the sun has performed another weary revo- lution. Hunger and destitution are pain- fully portrayed in the deep furrows of each withered face, and the shrunken limb tot- ters as the keen wind whistles cold through the wet folds of the tattered goat-skin gir- dle which reaches barely to the knee. No fostering hand awaits their return to the cheerless hut, to minister in kindness to the necessities of age ; and the last closing scene will drop a welcome curtain of repose over sinews ground by indigence and toil, during half a century of hopeless bondage. ^CHAPTER LIII. NEW YEAR'S DAY. New Year's Day, which fell on the 10th of September, was, according to the Abys- sinian calendar, the eighteen hundred and thirty-fourth since the nativity of Christ, and it was celebrated with much rejoicing and festivity. Betimes in the morning came a summons to the presence of the negoos, who, seated in the portico of the audience chamber, was enjoying the genial warmth of the rising sun. The interior of the hall was strewed with newly-plucked rushes; and under a large iron chafing dish, with a cheerful wood fire, basked a whole host of sleek cats in couples — a portion of the dower received with the fair daughter of the Galla queen of Moolofa- lada. The king was particularly affable, and in the highest spirits. His hand having been extended to each in turn, with the usual inquiries relative to " safe entrance," the congratulations of the season were of- fered to his majesty according to the cus- tomary form : " As the departed year of St. Matthew has closed happily upon your auspicious reign, so may the coming year of St. Mark ! May God prolong your days and continue the throne in the line of your ancestors, unto your children's children, to the end of time ! May He extend the boundaries of your dominions, and cause your spear to prevail over the lance of the enemy ! May He endow you with wisdom to judge your subjects aright, and move your heart unto clemency ; and may He cause high and low alike to understand and to appreciate the equitable sway of the father, whom Heaven has appointed to rule over them !" Elaborate models of a domed palace, completely furnished, and an English sad- dle and bridle, were next presented, and received with every manifestation of de- light, coupled with a prayer from the royal lips, that " God might glorify the donors." A long and minute scrutiny led to an in- finity of questions, not easily answered, as to how the shield was to be slung to the pommel, and why the entire foot, instead of the great toe only, should be inserted in the stirrup ? " The sun in different coun- tries shines with more or less brilliancy," exclaimed his majesty, with truly royal eloquence, as he concluded the examina- tion — " the birds and the beasts are differ- ent, and so are the plants. I am fond of new inventions, if it be only to look at them, and although they should prove on trial to be inferior to old ones." Abd el Yonag, the chief of the Hurrur slave-merchants, was seated, rosary in hand, during this conversation ; and in his weather-beaten countenance were display- ed all the cunning lineaments of the petty retailer in small wares, curiously con- trasted with the sagacity of the extensive dealer in politics, who had succeeded in obtaining an accurate measure of the mon- arch's foot. The knave, too, protested to have seen the world, and gave out that with his own gray eyes had he beheld the glories of Britain's eastern possessions. To support his widely circulated char- acter for universal knowledge, the Moslem miscreant now seized between his bony fingers two pieces of superbly sprigged muslin, fresh from the looms of Manches- ter, which had been presented for Queen Besabesh, and throwing them contemptu- ously toward the corner of the throne, muttered betwixt his lips the word " Bom- bay." " What's that — what do you say!" cried the king, in his usual abrupt manner. " May it please your majesty," returned the turbaned traveller, to the amusement of the servants of the illustrious presidency assembled, " 't is the name of this cloth- it is called Bombay." But an opportunity presently occurred of laughing at the beard of the irreverent THE TOURNAMENT— THE WOUNDED HERO. 143 peddler, nor was it suffered to pass un- heeded. The despot exhibited a silver sword scabbard, which had been curiously enamelled to represent one of the scaly inhabitants of the deep; and it was ac- knowledged, nemine contradicente, that the artist had succeeded in producing a highly creditable resemblance to a fish. " A fish," quoth the man of Hurrur, " what is that]" Even the monarch smiled, when the ex- planation was rendered. " Fishes live in the great sea between Abyssinia and Bom- bay ; and he whose eyes have not suffered under Oubie's searing irons, might behold numbers of them every day of the voyage." " Istigh-far-allah" " Heaven defend me," growled the discomfited Wurj, as he slunk into a corner — " 'Tis passing strange that. Abd el Yonag should have never seen the wild beast of the water." Attended by the dwarf father confessor, and holding deep consultation with several of the household priests, the king presently led the way through the secret door on the north-eastern side of the palace inclosure. Two aftabgivs of crimson velvet, surmount- ed by silver globes and crosses — his never- failing attendants on all occasions of state — were supported by sturdy slaves, and twelve richly caparisoned steeds, repre- senting the months of the year, were led by the royal grooms. A numerous and motley retinue of dismounted cavaliers fol- lowed ; and on reaching the meadow, the brows both of monarch and subject were bound by the monks with green fillets of a wiry grass, styled " enkotatach" whence the festival takes its appellation. Unlike the rugged mountains of Anko- ber, which can alone be traversed by the sure-footed mule, the country around De- bra Berhan is of a strictly equestrian na- ture ; and the bright azure of the sky, mottled by fleecy clouds., the fresh verdure of the soft turf, and the elasticity of the pure air, all lent their aid to the coming tournament. Armed with a slender staff, the king mounted his charger, and bound- ing over the greensward, opened the sports of the day. Groups of wild savages were instantly to be seen scouring in every di- rection, engaged in the gombeza, or joust ; but his majesty, in flaunting striped robes, shone conspicuous. Well mounted, a fearless horseman, and admirably skilled in the use of the spear, he had on no pre- vious occasion been seen to so great ad- vantage as during his participation in the warlike exercises of the new year — now pursuing, and now in turn pursued by the warrior whom he had honored by selection as his antagonist in the tilt. " Guebroo is sick," quoth the monarch, the moment the display was over ; " he has received a severe wound in the head during a skirmish with the rebel Galla, and I am desirious that you should now visit him, taking with you the medicine for putrid sores !" Ayto Berkie, the governor of Bulga, volunteered his escort to Daliiti, the abode of his invalid brother. Crossing the serpen- tine Bereza, the road led through swampy meadows, and over little cultivated knolls destitute of either tree or shrub, toward Angollala, which, after a gallop of seven miles, opened in the distance. On the summit of a tabular eminence rose the king's two-storied palace, above churches and" conical houses; and five distinct knolls, forming an arc in the intermediate and otherwise level landscape, were sev- erally crowned by the abodes of favorite courtiers — that on the extreme right, em- bowered in luxuriant trees, pertaining to Ayto Guebroo, governor of Mentshar. Ascending the tumulus by a steep and stony path, a muddy court-yard was thread- ed to the abode of the great man. Sur- rounded by mournful attendants he reclined on an alga before a fierce fire, his right eye screened by a shade of blue calico, and his well-greased partner sobbing vio- lently at his feet. The Gille and Loomi Galla, bordering on the ancient province of " Fat i gar," having revolted, the warrior had taken the field with his contingent, and becoming opposed to a rebel in hand to hand combat, had received the first spear on his buckler, which was now os- tentatiously displayed. The horse of his adversary fell under a well-directed lance, and the dismounted pagan sued for quar- ters ; obtaining which he treacherously launched his remaining shaft, which had cleft the forehead, and passed through the corner of the eye, although without de- stroying the vision. The patient having pledged himself to submit to the prescribed treatment, which few in Abyssinia will do, an operation was successfully performed. Drying her tears, the hostess had meanwhile slaughtered a ram, and made extensive preparations for a repast Piles of thin teff cakes loaded the low wicker table — bowis of potent pepper- porridge smoked at the place appointed for each guest, and lumps of raw meat were in profusion ; nor was it without infinite surprise that the hospitable entertainers and their domestics beheld the chops sub- mitted in the first instance to the influence of the hot embers. " Do all of your na- tion thus burn their meat ?" inquired the 144 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. lady after long and attentive observation : «* I was told that such was the case, and that you burned the king's bread too, but could never have believed it." Some difficulty was experienced by the king in comprehending how an eye could be restored by the use of the knife, but his majesty was at a still greater loss to under- stand by what means a subject had been cured, while he himself remained in par- tial blindness. Ayto Katama, who was present at this observation, turning to one of the party whispered, " Do not sup- pose that tne negoos is blind of that eye : may Sahela Selassie die, he sees bet- ter with it than with the other !" Like ^sop of old, who was once a bondsman, the general of the body-guard still retained the grovelling spirit of slavery, varnished with the address of the artful courtier; and had he flourished in the days of Solon and Croesus, he would doubtless have sup- ported the advice given to the Grecian phi- losopher by the hunchback author of the fables, " that we should either not come near crowned heads at all, or speak, those things only that will prove agreeable to them." CHAPTER LIV. THE FALLS OF THE BEREZA. Hunting expeditions filled up the lei- sure hours of the busy monarch. Seated on the verge of the deep ravine by which the now deserted fastness of Tegulet is insulated from the plain of Debra Berhan, it was his majesty's wont to project stone balls from his rifle at the hyenas basking upon huge fragments of fallen rock, which form caverns one thousand feet below, and choke the bed of the pathless chasm. Then the steps of the royal cavalcade would be directed to the valley of the Be- reza, where " Satan's horses," in the shape of gigantic adjutants, were striding over the plain on their long stilt-like legs, with well-filled pouches dangling beneath their bills. Here, seated upon the green turf, the negoos awaited the report of his scouts. While turning the corner of the numerous abrupt eminences, his ears were ever sa- luted by loud cries of u Abiet ! Abiet /" from the mouth of many a petitioner, and a very respectable body of plaintiff's and defendants were always in attendance. Judgment was calmly delivered, until the arrival of some breathless horseman with intelligence of the discovery of a col- ony of baboons, would arrest the proceed- ings of the sylvan court. " Sahela Selassie ye moot?" inquired the sporting monarch on one of these occasions, adjuring the in- formant by his own illustrious life ; " are they well surrounded ?" " May Sahela Selassie die if they be not," responded the slave, as he bowed his head to the dust; " hundreds graze in yonder cornfield." " Then by the death of Woosen Suggud they shall be slain," was the rejoinder, as his majesty galloped toward the spot, fol- lowed by every rifle and fowling-piece of which the imperial armory could boast On the verge of the deep valley a count- less pigfaced army was presently revealed, laying waste the rising crop. Lusty vet- erans, muffled in long flowing manes, strut- ted consequentially among the ladies, and others, squatted upon their hunkers, with many a ghastly grin displayed their white teeth while hunting down the vermin that infested their rough shaggy coats. Cast- ing aside his chequered robe, the king, with all the ardor of a schoolboy, dashed into the middle of the amazed group, and under a running fire from himself and courtiers, the field was presently strewed with slain and wounded. Mangled wretches were now to be seen dragging their muti- lated limbs behind them in ineffectual ex- ertions to reach the precipitous chasm of the Bereza, whose white foaming waters were thundering below, while the grima- cing survivors, far out of danger, whooped in echoes amid the bush-grown clefts, to reassemble the discomfited forces. Return from this brilliant victory was celebrated by the war-chorus, until the appearance of a herkoom waddling over the ploughed land, again proved the signal for general pursuit. This gigantic and de- formed bird is of the genus hornbill, and an abrupt unmeaning excrescence above his huge jagged forceps, imparts a fancied resemblance to the slaves ot the king, who carry water-jars upon their heads, which has dignified him with the title of " Abba Gumbo," " the Father of the Pitcher." It has blue wattles, which, when the bird is worried, become inflamed like those of the turkey-cock ; and from the fact of its al- ways constructing the door of its nest to the eastward, the Abyssinians assert that it will never build out of sight of a church. The plumage throughout is, to appear- ance, of a sooty black ; but the expansion of the wings displays an assemblage of snowy quills, which form the pride of the warrior who has slain his enemy in battle. Mules were abandoned with one accord ; and under the encouraging gaze of the despot, the courtiers, springing into their " THE DEVIL'S SHEEP "—THE CATARACT. 143 high-peaked saddles, scoured after the de- voted quarry. Weary with its long flight, the heavy bird alighted a dozen times, but no rest was ever allowed. Again he was turned, and again he distanced his pur- suers, until beleagured on all sides, he was finally speared by the chief smith and body physician, who as an equestrian shone facile princeps,znd whose skill rewarded the head of each hero engaged, with the coveted white plume, the Amharic emblem of death. " My children have never seen the * devil's sheep,'" gravely observed his ma- jesty, as he ascended toward the palace, preceded by strains of martial music. " They live in holes in the rocks under the great waterfall, and have long snouts : my people are afraid. Take guns in the morn- ing, and the pages will show you the road. Now you may eat." Heavy dew covered the long waving grass, as the party, accompanied by the promised escort, proceeded at an early hour, to gratify the royal curiosity by the destruction of the dreaded monster. It proved on realization to be an inoffensive badger; and although the sport did not afford very much diversion, the cataract amply repaid the ride across the meadow. Leaving the terrace of table-land, the ser- pentine river, far hid from sight, winds through a succession of verdant hills, to- ward a precipitous valley, down which the foaming torrent rushes over a descent of eight rocky basins. Hemmed in by fantas- tic pillars of basalt, composed of irregular disjointed polygons, the dark craggy sur- face, laid bare by the violence of ages, is at strange variance with the bright emerald turf which creeps luxuriantly to the very verge of the frowning abyss ; while twelve hundred feet below, the sparry walls sud- denly contract ■ to the breadth of fifteen yards, and the accumulated waters of the cascades, discharging through the natural floodgate, boil onward in their wild career. A perpendicular crag towering above the royal iron mines, rears its crumbling head from the very bottom of the vale to the level of the upper stream, as if to mark the puddenness of the descent. The entire face of the verdant hills which repose above the roaring cataract, were covered with balmy thyme and other aromatic herbs, which, steaming under the influence of the morning sun, yielded up their fragrance at every step ; and new and lovely flowers, sparkling under the dew-drop, carpeted the slope. From the very brink of the dizzy torrent, lofty junipers raised their tall stems, and flung their mossy arms to a vast height, though still appearing but as small twigs ; and the white cloud of mist and spume and spray, which arose from the gloomy chasm, reflecting the prismatic colors of the Iris, completed a picture of singular wildness and magnificence. How different, indeed, is the fate await- ing the waters of one and the same shower discharged over the high culminating ridge of the Abyssinian Alps ! A rain-drop, fall- ing on the eastern slope of the shed, wends its short course by the nearest streamlet toward the muddy Hawash ; and, if not ab- sorbed by the thirsty plains of the Ada'iel, adds its mite to the lagoon of Aussa — to filter, perhaps, through some subterranean channel into the Indian Ocean. But far distant is the pilgrimage that awaits the more ambitious cloud that sinks on the western side. Joining the Berez, and taking the fearful leap over the dazzling cataract of Debra Berhan, it hurries down the Jumma on its impetuous course to the Bahr el Azreek — rolls through the golden sands of Damot — and, after visiting Meroe and Thebes, and all the stately pyramids, either adds its humble tribute to the still waves of the blue Mediterranean, or is sacrificed to the fertility of the land of Egypt, " Where, with annual pomp, Rich king of floods ! o'erflows the swelling Nile." CHAPTER LV. THE ANNUAL REVIEW. As the month rolled on, under a cold and pleasant sky, governors of the adjacent dis- tricts flocked with their quotas to Debra Berhan, to be in readiness against the ap- proaching anniversary of "Maskal." On this festival, held in commemoration of the discovery of the holy cross by St. Helena, the rabble militia composing the Amhara forces being marshalled in order of review, the ?rassy slope in front of the palace be- came daily more and more thickly dotted with black booths and mules and neighing steeds. Honors, appointments, and re- wards are now conferred upon the brave and the deserving ; and this being also the season of retribution, the forfeited property and the household chattels of delinquent officers, added to the fair-like confusion. Herds of cattle, and long files of confis- cated slaves, wooden tables, rickety bed- steads, and other paltry prizes of royal seiz- ure, crowded the bustling parade ; whild groups of shivering camels, transferred by writ of execution to an uncongenial clime. 146 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. took up their miserable station on the bare cold ground, which was in a few days to receive their long scraggy bones. On the eve of the anxiously expected day of jubilee, the din of the nugareet, fol- lowed by the repeated discharge of heavily- loaded matchlocks, proclaimed the move- ment of the household troops toward the palace portals, to guard the imperial person, according to custom immemorial, from any sudden outbreak of the wild host encamped in the environs. Halting in front of the tents of the embassy, the war-dance was performed by the light of the torch, in honor of the stranger guests ; and while the lead- ers solaced themselves with a cup of cur- acoa, their curvetting chargers, ridden by confidential henchmen, bore gallantly among the dense mass ; and the bright metal stars and studs of the appointments gleamed amid the dark ranks of the savage warriors, as they howled to a thundering war chorus the Amhara war song of death. Bidding good night, the chiefs declared among the affirmative whoops of their fol- lowers, that next to the safety of the sacred person of royalt}^, the valued lives of their much-esteemed foreign friends should be uppermost in the thoughts of the coming vigil. Most unkingly was the appearance pre- sented by the palace at break of day, and most unprincely the confusion of the court. Dirt and filth reigned paramount in every purlieu of the royal residence — mire to the ankle obstructed every gateway — and the rods of the wearied door-keepers were bro- ken to splinters in their laudable endea- vors to check the rush of the eager and greasy mob. The very houses seemed more gloomy than usual, and the time-worn mud plaster of the ancient walls more som- bre and dilapidated than was its wont. The despot was for some hours to be seen squatted in the porch of the banquet- ing hall, surrounded by all the concomitant litter of a forge, which, puffing away at the foot of the alga, under the personal super- vision of the chief smith, blew a cloud of dust and ashes into the royal nostrils. Decorum seemed to be laid aside for the day. Chattering and noise resounded in every quarter. Restraint was removed from the tongues of all, and the uplifted voice of the mighty monarch was at times scarcely audible, amid the clatter of sur- rounding courtiers, and the ringing of the crow upon the anvil. Twenty sallow eunuchs, acting each at one and the same time as master of the ceremonies, introduced to the royal notice the crowds of lieges, who, arrayed in most filthy garbs, came crushing together to the front. Priests and monks, and petty gov- ernors, women, slaves, and cultivators, bore each some present to swell the imperial stores. Honey, butter, and beads, sticks, crutches, and censers, were alike received with complimentary speeches, saving in the instance of one burly knave, who pre- sumed to come before the king with a poor bundle of grass. Of him no notice what- ever was taken. The very crowd seemed ashamed of so scurvy an offering, and an opening being spontaneously made, a few kicks and shoves sent the ill-provided vas- sal speedily out of sight, unrewarded by the customary "God give thee more!" from the lips of his puissant sovereign. But the sun rose upon a different scene, as the embassy, in full uniform, were ush- ered through the grassy lawn to make their bows to his majesty. Surrounded by all the grandees of the court, in their holiday attire, the generals of the cavalry and body-guard, the household officers, and the alakas and high-priests of all the principal churches, he reclined on a mov- able throne, tricked out for the occasion in velvet and satin. Rich kimlchabs, gay silken vests, and a profusion of silver swords and decorations for gallant con- duct, sparkled on the persons of the cour- tiers ; and the turmoil attending the early hours of business had given place to the unbending gravity of Abyssinian etiquette. The artillery escort having, greatly to the admiration of the bystanders, gone through the manual and platoon exercises with blank cartridge, three hundred Afe~ roch, under the command of the purveyor- general, entered the arena, elevating high above their heads bundles of pealed wands, bound together with wisps of rushes, and bedecked with garlands of the yellow cross-flower. The wild song of rejoicing at the return of spring, and of the season of blossoms, " when the fleas retire and the flies appear," had been heard a con- siderable time, waxing louder and louder, as these lictors with their fasces approach- ed the scene of exhibition. Shouting the war-chorus, they now moved forward with a mincing gait, and after the most abject prostration to the earth, with a yell, hurl- ing their rods in a heap before the palace steps, the whole crouched in a semicircle. Their leader and his stewards, some on horseback, others on foot, clothed in the spoils of wild beasts, then displayed them- selves individually in the war-dance, gal- loping or vaulting between the open ranks, encouraging the men to fight, and demean themselves as warriors in the day of bat- ROYAL MILITARY REVIEW. 147 tie— each ending his recitative by a ter- rific howl, wherein he was unanimously joined by the whole lictor band. This exhibition terminated, the embassy, on horseback, were marshalled to a gay Turkish pavilion, which had been pur- posely erected, below the royal inspection tower. A small-roofed building, resem- bling a sentry-box, or the judge's stand on a country race-course, occupies a raised platform immediately within the palace inclosure. Gay cloth hangings enveloped this cage, and carpets and rugs of all co- lors covered the top of the rude wall for some distance on either side. The ne- goos was already seated when his British guests cantered past, and taking off their hats, received a condescending salutation. The usual paraphernalia of silver-emboss- ed velvet floated at the imperial feet. The chiefs of the churches, and the civil offi- cers of state — a gorgeous band — were ar- ranged along the platform, while a motley crowd of many thousand spectators stood closely packed over the plain below. Dense masses of cavalry were in readi- ness, at the farther extremity of the pa- rade, to perform the pageant of the day. At the distance of one hundred yards from the imperial stand, a stack of tall leafless willow-staves towered over the bright green turf which extended far and wide in front. Around it were squatted files of warriors, ensconsed under their round shields, like the tortoise beneath his shell — the charge of sundry huge culve- rins, of inordinate dimensions, being di- vided betwixt every three. The muzzle resied over the shoulder of one, a second worked the butt, and a third was prepared, with blazing brand, to fire on the signal given. The review commenced by the advance of Ayto Katama's body-guard, consisting entirely of fusileers, three- fourths of w r hom were on this occasion equipped with the muskets that had recent- ly been presented. Divided into four bodies, consisting each of about one hun- dred men, they moved slowly forward, shout- ing the usual war-chorus, in imitation of the voice of the lion, and were kept in line by the vigorous application of the rat- tan. Numerous bangles, the reward of distinguished gallantry, glittered through- out the band, and the fixed bayonets, here- tofore unknown in Southern Abyssinia, gleamed brightly in the sunshine. Gain- ing the prescribed distance, the warriors crouched on the ground, as if to receive cavalry. A gray-headed but energetic veteran sprang to the front— danced du- ring some time in a variety of uncouth capers — and uttering a howl such as might be conjectured to issue from the lungs of the demon in the wolf's glen, discharged his piece. The signal was followed by a running fire along the entire line, when the remaining companies, advancing in succession in the same order, performed the same evolutions, and all marched off dancing and singing to the outer ring. The commander-in-chief of this doughty band had meanwhile formed a conspicuous, although rather a ludicrous figure in the performance. Adorned with a flowing garment of flaring chintz, the gaudy hues and absurd pattern of which the kaleide- scope itself must have found difficulty in devising, Ayto Katama, a bondsman from his youth, exhibited his bloated figure in front of the phalanx of slaves, his head enveloped in a crimson harlequin cap. Tripping and mincing in the most un- seemly capers and gestures, he brandished his crooked blade in a fashion which could alone have proved dangerous to him- self. Suffering under the effects of an inveterate sore throat, no soul-inspiring words burst from his mute lips, and the vaporing general, and his mazy unmilitary motions, vividly portraying to the eye of the spectator the strut of a crippled pea- cock with tail unfurled before his admiring harem, shed a broad light of caricature over this opening scene of the pantomime of savage warfare. But tne king's master of the horse next advanced, with his glittering squadron of picked household cavalry — the flower of the Christian lances. Ayto Melkoo was arrayed in a parti-colored vest, surmounted by a crimson Arab fleece, handsomely studded with silver jets. A gilt embossed gauntlet encircled his right arm from the wrist to the elbow. His targe and horse- trapping glittered with a profusion of silver crosses and devices ; and he looked a stately and martial warrior, curvetting at the head of his tried troop of well-appoint- ed lancers. Forming line at the distance of half a mile, and approaching the willow pile with a musical accompaniment from a mounted band of kettle-drums, the squadron halted, and the leader, couching his lance, advan- ced in front. While putting his well- broken charger through all the evolutions of Abyssinian manege, he vaunted his prowess in arms, recited the prodigies of valor performed in the service of his royal master, and proclaimed his continued good faith, and future bold intentions — his" fol- lowers, at intervals, like the Romans of old, responding their assent by the loud 148 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. clatter of lance against shield. The har- rangue concluded, his spears were dashed upon the ground, and the chieftain, draw- ing his broad two-edged falchion, brandish- ed it in the air : " Tockatoo, Loola, Loola, Gummoo, Sik, Oooooh" he vociferated, as he dashed his heels into the flank of the prancing steed. An instantaneous howl, and independent discharge of culverins, answered the signal ; and the wild troop swept past at a gallop to the farther ex- tremity of the parade. At the royal command, a salute of twenty-one guns was fired by the artillery escort, from the brass three-pounder which had been dragged by oxen below the wil- low stack. Great was the admiration of the wild Galla multitude, as they gazed on the glittering appointments and embroid- ered housings of the British guests of his majesty, now assembled on horseback in front of the watch-tower ; and sufficiently diverting were the remarks passed on the fluttering plumes of white and red feathers — their own emblems of bloody, though not chivalrous deeds. And when the can- nonade opened upon ears that had never before been saluted by the thunder of ord- nance*, and a cloud of white smoke as- cended high above the heads of those who had hitherto beheld such volumes arise only from burning hamlets, a buzz of ap- plause pealed from end to end of the ex- tended line. Each echoing report carried to the hearts of the congregated savages, a powerful argument for future loyalty, and it needed little discrimination to un- ravel the royal policy, which had dictated so great an honor to his foreign visitors. Thirteen governors, clothed in spoils stripped from the lion and the leopard, with other conspicuous trophies of the chase, passed successively in order of review. Decked in emblems of blood — rings, feath- ers, bracelets, and gauntlets, with shining coronets and chains of silver streaming from their clotted hair — tokens all of in- dividual prowess in hand to hand combat with the king's foes — the leader of each glittering cohort indulged in a long, ram- bling harangue, ere shouting the signal for the charge. Many there were who wore the akoddma — a massive transverse beam of silver, projecting across the brows, and hung with a profusion of chains and pen- dants, the reward for the slaughter of an Adel, several of which respectable body, including the ras el kafilah and his fiery coadjutor, Ibrahim Shehem, were specta- tors of the martial manoeuvres of the Am- hara troops. An interesting, though perhaps not a very military sight, was witnessed as the hours drew on. The famished governors, judges, chiefs, nobles, courtiers, and dig- nitaries of the church, who occupied the elevated platform on either side of the royal box, unable longer to resist the calls of hunger, were suddenly to be perceived in the act of employing their crooked swords in reducing the dimensions of sev- eral sides and flaps of raw beef, furnished by the king's munificence, and ostenta- tiously displayed by as many menials — nor, under the well-directed and vigorous at- tacks of the assembly, were the reeking collops long in disappearing. A few only of the detachments, whose leaders were not gifted with eloquence, charged past without a halt, from the ground on which they had formed ; and it is not improbable that these, having made the circuit of the palace inclosure, now swelled the pageant by appearing a second time on the stage. Others, dismounting, performed various evolutions on foot — an- cient heroes, with gleaming falchions of truly portentous dimensions, capering and striding before the line, until, on a signal made by the culverins, they vaulted again into the saddles, and dashed onward over the greensward, now fast fading under the tramp of hoofs. Last of all came the tall, martial figure of Abogaz Maretch, chief of all the trib- utary Galla in the south, at the head of his Abidchu legion, who closed the display of barbarian tactics. Three thousand in number, the sea of wild horsemen moved in advance to the music of kettle-drums, their arms and decorations flashing in the sunbeam ; and their ample white robes and long sable, braided hair streaming to the breeze. At the shrill whoop of their warlike leader, with the rushing sound of a hurricane, the glittering cohort clattered past the royal stand, and the moving forest of lances disappeared under a cloud of dust. From eight to ten thousand cavalry were present in the field, and the spectacle, which lasted from nine in the morning un- til five in the afternoon, was exceedingly wild and impressive. Did the warriors, who this day recounted their valorous achievements before the monarch, possess hearts of a measure with their good weap- ons and strong seats, they could not fail to prove the means of extensive power and conquest under the control of an aspiring chief ; but such unfortumtely is not the case, and the speed of the stout hardy steeds that they bestrode, is too frequently exerted in the wrong direction. OF ROCKETS— ANGOLLALA. 149 As soon as it became dark, rockets which had been brought by the embassy- were to be discharged from the tents by the king's express desire. With fire-arms the Abyssinians were previously acquaint- ed, and the brass galloper which had ech- oed so recently, although viewed with wonderful respect, was still only the en- gine on a colossal scale, to which they were familiarized. But these were the first rockets of which his majesty had viewed the flight, and the impression they produced upon his mind, as he gazed from his watch-tower, was scarcely less than that worked upon his assembled subjects. Night had thrown her sable mantle around, and the novel principle of ascent, with the grandeur of the brilliant rush into the skies, afforded matter of amazement to all spectators. When the projectile started with a loud roar from its bed, men, women, and children, fell flat upon their faces. Horses and mules broke loose from their tethers, and the warrior who had any heart remaining, shouted aloud. The Galla tribes who witnessed the meteor-like ex- plosion from the vicinity, ascribed the phe- nomenon to the use of potent medicines, and declared that since the Gyptzis could at pleasure produce comets in the sky, and rain fire from heaven, there was nought for them left, save abject submission to the king's commands. The ceremony of burning the stack of willow staves on the parade, commenced shortly after this exhibition, and, superin- tended by his majesty in person, termina- ted the proceedings of the busy day. Shrouded from the rude gaze of the popu- lace under the nocturnal veil, the ladies of the royal harem danced and clapped their hands together, as their white ghostlike figures moved in circling procession around the pile so shortly to be committed to the flames. Then followed a rush of torch- bearers from various quarters, mingled with the corps of Aferoch, and all reeling under the effects of strong old hydromel. Three hundred flower-decked fasces, dis- played bright and fresh in the morning, but now withered and faded, were with savage shouts and yells cast simultaneous- ly on the pyre, and a burst of lurid glare, which revealed all that was passing, at once proclaimed their ignition. Thousands crowding round the fast-increasing blaze added their tribute, and joined in the din of voices. Black crosses to repel the devil were described on the forehead with the charred wood, in the struggle to obtain which hard blows were dealt lustily about, and many of the competitors were even forced into the pile. The legend asserts that on the discovery of the Holy Cross by the mother of Constantine the Great, she caused beacon fires to be lighted on all the high hills of Palestine, upon beholding which a general shout of joy was raised by the people of Constantinople. In imi- tation hereof, wild songs and yells of tri- umph from the inebriated Christians of Shoa, now completed the turmoil and con- fusion, and with the crackling red flames that curled up the tall dry staves, ascended high into the starry vault of heaven in honor of Saint Helena. CHAPTER LVI. THE GALLA CAPITAL. Angollala, on the Galla frontier, found- ed ten years since by the reigning mon- arch, is now the capital of the western portion of Shoa, and during the greater part of the year it forms his majesty's fa- vorite place of residence. Thither he proceeded on the morning following the festivities of Maskal. Upward of three thousand horsemen composed the cortege, which was swelled every quarter of a mile by large detachments of cavalry. Led by their respective chiefs, each band dismounted at a considerable distance on the flank, and advancing on foot, with shoulders bared, fell prostrate with one ac- cord before the state umbrellas. The negoos bestrode a richly caparisoned mule, with swallow-tailed housings of crimson and green, and massive silver collars ; and he was closely followed by the corps of shield-bearers, under the direction of the master of the horse, who, by vigorous sal- lies, and the judicious exercise of a long stick, kept the crowd from encroaching upon the royal person, during the eight mile ride over the level plain. From four to five hundred circular huts, consisting of loose stone walls very rudely thatched, cover the slopes of a group of tabular hills that inclose an extensive quadrangle. On the summit of the largest eminence, near the church of Kidana Meherat, stands the palace, defended by six rows of stout high palisades. A clum- sy stone edifice of two stories, towering in the form of a dovecot, occupies the centre. It was erected by Demetrius, an Albanian visitor, and is considerably superior in point of architecture to all other domiciles in the realm, although somewhat tottering in appearance, and deserted from an appre- 150 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. hension of earthquake, which holds strong possession of the royal mind. " Earth- quakes are bad things," was his majesty's remark, " for they overthrow houses, and demolish my people." The rugged ascent up the steep hill-side was thronged with spectators, male and female, assembled to greet the arrival of their sovereign, and to stare at the for- eigners. Paupers and mendicants crowd- ed the first inclosure ; and the approach from the second gate through four court- yards, to the king's quarters, was lined with matchlockmen and fusileers, who, as the embassy passed between the ranks, made a laughable attempt to present arms in imitation of the artillery escort at the review. Kitchens, magazines, and brew- eries were scattered in all directions ; and, with the long banqueting-hall, the cham- ber of audience, the apartments of the women, and the solitary cells, formed a curious, but far from imposing group of buildings. The despot, in high good humor, con- ducted his guests over the unswept prem- ises, and up a rude ladder to the attic story, which commands a pleasant prospect over wide grassy meadows, intersected by serpentine streamlets, and covered with the royal herds. Upon a floor strewed with newly cut grass, blazed the wood fire in the iron stove, with the never-failing cats luxuriating under its influence. A dirty couch graced the alcove, and a few guns and fowling-pieces the rudely white- washed walls ; but otherwise, the dreary chamber was unfurnished. " I have brought you here," quoth his majesty, " that you may understand what I want. These rooms require to be ornamented ; and I wish your artist to cover them with ele- phants and soldiers, and with representa- tions of all the buildings and strange things in your country, which my eyes have not seen. At present, my children may go." Awnings had been pitched on the sum- mit of Debra Maskal,* the southern emi- nence. The weather was now intensely cold, and a fire during the evening hours could not be dispensed with. As the em- bers died away, and the smoke cleared from the interior of the flimsy pall, the teeth chattered under the pinching exhala- tion from the ground. Rifles became rusty in a single night, from the heavy white dew that saturated the cloth — watches stopped beneath the pillow — and heaps of blankets proved of small avail to the cramped and shivering limbs, which ♦The hill of the Cross. told full well of the white hoar that was incrusting the verdure of the adjacent meadow. In the filthy purlieus of the palace, and close to the outer gate, stands a mound of ashes and rubbish, mingled with the noi- some lees that stream over the road from the adjacent royal breweries. Packs of half-wild dogs, the pest of Angollala, lux- uriate hereon during the day, and at night set forth on their reckless foray, dispelling sleep when the moon rises by their fune- real dirge, and destroying tents in their pilfering invasions. Long before the dawn, the shrill crowing of a thousand cocks first starts the slumberer from his uneasy re- pose. The wild whoop of the oppressed Galla, who demands redress, then mingles with the " Abiet! Abiet!" reiterated by the more civilized Amhara from every hill- top ; and the memory of those who have ever witnessed the breaking of the glorious day amid nature's luxuriant forests of the East, is forcibly carried back to the tan- gled thicket, where the campanero tolls her bell-like note from the branches of the spreading tamarind, and the wild ape fills up the interval with his deep voice of ex- ultation, as he pounces upon the bitter ap- ple of the wood. Bands of mendicant monks next silently take post on the crest of a crumbling wall within spear's length of the slumberer's pillow, and by a shrill recitative, followed by a chiming chorus of independent voices, dispel the morning dream, while they scream with a pertinacity that bribery can alone quell. Psalms and hymns never fail to usher in the morn ; and when the as- perity of cracked and aged throats is some- what mellowed by distance, the chant of Christian praise — now rambling wildly through all the varied shakes and intona- tions of a single voice — now swelling with the choral unison of many — is not alto- gether unpleasant. But greatly more me- lodious would it fall upon the mortal ear, if a lesson in music were taken from the warbling larks, which rise fluttering in hundreds from the steaming meadows, to lift their matin song — at intervals mount- ing far and faint in the cool dewy air, and again approaching in one rich quaver of delicious harmony, as the feathered song- ster alights fearlessly upon the awning. To the cry of •* Abiet /" which now re- sounded so unceasingly in the still air of the morning, the Abyssinians attach the opinion that, on the last day, Satan, pre- senting himself before the gates of heaven, will continue thus to vociferate until he gains admission. On presenting himself CODE OF LAWS— CRIMINAL JURISPRUDENCE. 151 before the judgment-seat, it will be asked "what he would have?" "The souls which have been wrested from me by the angels," is to be the reply ; but on his ac- knowledging inability to specify the names of those who have robbed him, the Father of Evil will be commanded to begone, and never to show his face again. Importunity is an attribute which stands prominently forth in the character of a na- tive of Southern Abyssinia. For hours together the numerous applicants for re- dress continue thus to call upon the master from every eminence around the palace, until at. length the door-keepers appearing, beckon the petitioners to draw nigh. Well aware, however, of the existing understand- ing between these servitors and the " Four Chairs," the very judges against whose de- cision they would appeal, they give no heed to the summons, but thrusting their fingers into their ears, do but lift up their voices the louder, until the king commands one of his pages to cause the whole to assemble in the court-yard, where, with shoulders bared to the waist, the parties fearlessly bring the subject of their complaint before the throne. Opportunities were therefore daily af- forded of witnessing the dispensation of justice in this singular and anomalous land, where an Fthiopic translation of the code of Justinian, adapted to the customs of the country, forms the basis of legal decisions. The Fetha Negest, or "Judgment of the Kings," as this volume is entitled, is said to have fallen from heaven during the reign of Constantine the Great ; but its statutes, although liberally quoted on all convenient occasions, are not considered binding upon the monarch, unless found in perfect uni- son with his own despotic pleasure. Dis- putes are first adjusted by the governors of provinces, who, in the powers wherewith they are invested, resemble the feudal ba- rons of Europe in the Gothic ages, and of- ten perpetrate the grossest injustice. But the injured party can always seek redress in the court of the Four Wamberoch,* who, being literally "the bench," are the judges civil and criminal. These dignitaries daily take their seat in the verandah of a build- ing allotted in one of the palace courts, where accuser and accused deliver their conflicting statements in an equally ele- vated tone of oratory, accompanied by much theatrical gesture. The decision lies again under appeal to the throne ; and whenever the king sees fit to reverse it, the severest * Wamber signifies a chair, and its plural is Wam- beroch. censure is invariably passed upon delin- quent chairs. The lives and the lands of every subject of Shoa belong dejure to Sahela Selassie, and of their persons and worldly substance he is absolute master. Whether at the demise of the king or of the subject, the estates of the latter are again at the dispo- sal of the crown, and without the occur- rence of either contingency, the mere will and pleasure of the despot is alone requisite to their resumption. Violent use, however, is seldom made of this arbitrary power, and it is rarely resorted to, except in cases of high treason or of offences against the state, which, in place of capital punishment, are visited by confiscation of property, and by imprisonment for life, unless the offender shall have taken timely sanctuary in the monastery of Affal Woira, where his per- son being held inviolate, even by the king, the monks can often mediate with success. Slavery, either limited to the offender, or extended to his whole family, and continued to-his descendants, during one, two, or even seven generations, is a punishment from which no class is held exempt, but exile is usually substituted for offences committed by the clergy, the banished ecclesiastic be- ing then commanded to " stay not by day, neither to tarry by night," if he would avoid the penalty that awaits delay. In accordance with the Mosaic dispensa- tion, a life for a life is the punishment awarded to the murderer ; but, if permitted by the relatives of the deceased, the crimi- nal is authorized by law to purchase his pardon, and to beg through the land until he shall have realized the stipulated ran- som. But the escape of the criminal in- volves forfeiture of property by all his rela- tives who may be residing north of the river Airara, and, unless he be produced, the at- tachment continues in full force during three generations. Robbery is usually in- vestigated through the lebashi, or " thief- taker," who is indispensable to Abyssinian jurisprudence ; and the unhappy wretch whom his imp selects, if unable to pay the fine adjudged, is visited by castigation either with a whip or with a cudgel. If a Chris- tian, he is then confided to the care of a follower of the Prophet in some of the hot unwholesome Mohammadan districts — if an Islam, to that of a Christian — the party on whom the culprit is thus quartered, be- ing in either case held responsible to the crown for his safe custody during his term of hard labor. In all the courts of judicature, interest for money lent is recognized at the rate of one amole per mensem upon each dollar. 152 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. No note of hand is ever exchanged, but the security of a substantial housekeeper is requisite, who is termed " was." Debt- ors are manacled, and suffered to roam through the country on this security, in order to beg the amount due among the charitably disposed, and it is a fact that in the absence of a " was" either the creditor or one of the retainers, is chained to the defaulter, and the happy couple thus linked wander through the country together, cry- ing " By Mary ! By Mary !" until the re- quisite sum shall have been contributed for the sake of the holy Virgin. At home and abroad, on excursions and on military expeditions, the loud cry of "Ahiet .'" salutes the royal ear from situa- tions the most strange and unexpected, and, although the land is despotic, appeals are almost always promptly attended to. The more importunate suitor, who will not re- main content with the promise of a future consideration of his claim, is sometimes visited with the stick, but no available op- portunity is neglected of listening to these endless petitioners. The halting-stone and the green turf are frequently transferred into seats of justice. Judgment is given while ambling over the fields and mead- ows ; and during five days of every week, many hours are devoted to the unravelment of knotty points of controversy, or to the adjustment of the tangled disputes and quarrels of the liege subjects of Shoa. CHAPTER LVII. CHASM OF THE CHACHA. The king had oftentimes vaunted the extraordinary natural fortification afforded to Angullala by the river Chacha, which for two days' journey to the northwestward rolls through a deep precipitous valley, of- fering a barrier impassable to human foot, and being then joined by the Bereza and by numerous other streams, skirts the cele- brated sanctuary of Sena Markos, whence the combined waters, taking the title of Jumma, roll on into the Nile. Setting out one morning at sunrise through the " sirk- osh ber*," he sent a page to conduct his guests to the junction of the tributary Fa- cha, which tumbles its torrent over a per- pendicular wall seven hundred feet in height ; and here his majesty, surrounded by a crowd of noisy applicants for justice, already occupied his favorite seat on the brink of the giddy chasm. * i. e. The secret gate or wicket. A cloud had overcast the despot's brow, for " Boro Winkee," his favorite war-steed, had that morning fallen down dead while exercising in the meadow. Taken in bat- tle from a potent Galla chieftain whose name it inherited, the steed had long en- joyed a stall within the royal bedchamber, and strong fears indeed were entertained for the effeminate little page Katama, who had been the luckless jockey. But no pun- ishment followed the catastrophe. The boy was a court favorite, and Antonistye, his father, by far the most renowned war- rior in Shoa, was mayor of the corporation of king's herdsmen, who take the field in independent bodies, and under the title of Abelam* form a distinct class, mingling with no other portion of the population. " What think you of my Galla ditch ?" inquired the monarch. "Have you any such in your country ?" There could be but one opinion regard- ing the yawning gulf, which extends a full mile in breadth, and has been rent by some violent convulsion in the bowels of the earth. Fifteen hundred feet below the otherwise uninterrupted plain, the mingled waters flow on like a silver cord, fed at in- tervals by foaming cascades, which raise a shower of white spray in their headlong descent ; while frowning basaltic cliffs cast a deep gloom over wild steppes and ter- races, whose lone hamlets and cottages are scarcely to be distinguished from the fallen masses of rock. Vast colonies of pig-faced baboons, the principal inhabitants, sally forth morning and evening from their strong city, to devastate the surrounding crops, in defiance of incessant war waged against them by the peasantry, armed with sticks and stones ; but outcasts and criminals, too, find a safe asylum among the almost inaccessible crannies of the abrupt, perpen- dicular scarps, where they sojourn below dense masses of foliage, unthought of, and unmolested. Deep buried in the bosom of the stupen- dous Chacha, and immediately below the roaring cataract, stands the little hamlet of Gureyo, the seat of the royal iron works, and thither, after the sylvan court had closed, the king descended, leaning on the arm of the chief smith, great master of the Tabiban, or mechanics, and royal physician in ordinary. The process of smelting and refining pursued in Abyssinia, has been common to almost every age and country from the earliest antiquity. Broken into small fragments and coarsely pulverized, ♦Derived from the Aroh&ric word " abelta," "be may eat up." VILLAGE OF CHERKOS— A BASE ASSASSIN. 153 the ore is mixed with a large proportion of charcoal, and placed in a clay furnace re- sembling the smith's hearth, but furnished with a sloping cavity considerably depress- ed below the level of the blast pipes. The non-metallic particles, being brought to a state of fusion by the constant action of four pair of hand-worked bellows, the iron with the scoriae sinks to the bottom. This is again broken, and re-fused, when the dross flowing off, the pure metal is dis- charged in pigs, which, by a repetition of heating and welding, are wrought into bars ; but owing to the very rude and prim- itive apparatus employed, the unceasing toil of ten hours is indispensable to the re- alization of two pounds' weight of very in- ferior iron, which after all, in private works, is liable to a heavy tax to the crown. Embowered in a dark grove of junipers, on the opposite brink of the Chaka n'^s the silent village of Cherkos, rendered famous a few years since, through the massacre of one thousand of its Christian inhabitants by Medoko * a celebrated rebel. His proceedings occupy one of the most conspicuous pages in the chronicles of Shoa. Exalted by rare military talents and undaunted intrepidity to fa ^ e highest pinnacle of royal favor, he iecame elated by the distinctions confined, and being suspected of aiming * even greater do- minion, was suddenl? curled into the deepest disgrace, and be^ }t in the same moment of property an-* power. Burning with re- venge, the warrior crossed the border to the subjugated, though disaffected Galla, whom ne had so lately held in check, and who now with open arms received him as their leader in revolt. At the head of a vast horde of wild cav- alry, reinforced by a number of matchlock- men, who had deserted their allegiance, the rebel marched upon Angollala. But he was frustrated in his designs by finding the only assailable point fortified by staked pits and ditches — the deep rugged channel of the Chacha opposing, as he well knew, an insurmountable barrier in every other direction. Desertion soon spread among the undisciplined rabble, and after several skirmishes with the royal troops, the offen- der sought an asylum at Zalla Dingai. Through the powerful mediation of Zena- ma Work, the queen-dowager, he was suffered to throw himself at the feet of his despotic master, and not only obtained pardon, but from motives of policy was eventually restored to all his former dig- nities. His Gaze!. 11 Medoko's second rebellion and tragic death, embodied from the authentic details of eye-witnesses, will form the subject of the six succeeding chapters. They are designed to throw upon the character of the monarch, and upon the customs of his court, a light which could scarcely have been admitted through any other lattice. The standard of revolt long waved over the heathen frontier, and when the storm which for months threatened the subver- sion of the empire, had at length been quelled by the extinction of the fiery and turbulent spirit that h?^ raised it, large offerings were madp &y his majesty to all the churches an* 1 monasteries throughout the realm, i« return for their prayers ; and solemn j* ocessions and thanksgivings were a ttP* n to the chief to pass his last evenins m the private apart- ments of the pai-oe— an honor conferred only upon p Avored few. "W> «nngs and advice were not wanting fr^in many quarters, and recollection called to mind many dark scenes which had been transacted at the friendly board of the des- pot, who was well known to be in a dan- gerous mood when too many smiles lighted up his countenance, and who preferred the quiet capture of his enemy to forcible seiz- ure in the open day . But the rash Medoko, confident in his own ascendency through service rendered, discarded every thought of evil. With a stout heart he entered the gloomy hall at the appointed hour, and un- der the guidance of a eunuch proceeded along the rough dark passages of the in- terior. On gaining the inner apartment he found Father Asrat and his assistant kneeling in the corner before their low desks, mum- bling the lessons of the evening from the miracles of the Holy Virgin — divers flasks of potent spirits being as usual ranged on the wicker table for the entertainment of the select company. All were in the high- est humor. The demeanor of the monarch was kind and conciliating ; and among the honors and favors which were that night liberally bestowed, the priest received the high office of chief of the church of the Saviour in the romantic village of Cherkos. The usual topics were discussed — the usu?* quantity of strong liquor swallowed- "\ at intervals the choristers chf»" ijte( j ., Psalms of David. The everv ' no - passed in great hilarity, and the co; ''» £ j h rose to depart. His heart bounding. hi h with future h Medoko stoops low to pay the sa i utat f on ot the nighty anf j was instantaneously pin- ioned iro; m behind, while a rush from the tront prevented every effort to lay hand Wl'on his weapon. By his fierce struggles ne once nearly regained an erect position. 156 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. but numbers crowded through every pas- and strong gateways lead through well-de sage, and he lay stretched on the floor se' curely bound and hampered with many coils of rope. "Fetters and a dungeon for the slave !" exclaimed the monarch as he quitted the scene of betrayed hospitality, and guards entered to obey the royal mandate. But ere the captive could be borne to his doom, a heavy foot pressed upon his prostrate neck. The smile of satisfied revenge play- ed over the bloated features of the mali- cious monk, and it shot through the heart of the fallen warrior. A deadly vow was muttered bt*wi x t his clenched teeth ; and as he lay foaming with rage, the words were half audible tn* OU orh his suppressed breathing, " Let him gv, ar d his 'cowled head if he can : henceforth v» the Devil with my allegiance !" CHAPTER LIX. ESCAPE FROM GONCHO. Medoko had been hurried from the pres- ence, and urged along the rough road with as much rapidity as possible ; but people are seldom so unfortunate as they suppose themselves to be. His fate was not as yet accomplished, and a slight di- version had been already made in his fa- vor. A faithful follower, alarmed at the protracted stay of his chief, had silently stationed himself at the secret outlet of the palace, whence he witnessed the progress of his beloved master. A devoted band, hastily collected, followed close on the foot- steps of the guard ; and as the prisoner passed through the thick forest of Afer- beine, the shrill note of the Galla hench- man more than once fell on his attentive ear, to convey welcome tidings that he was not altogether deserted in this his hour of distress. - As the party climbed the rocky steep, the moon was fast sinking behind the ^at mountains, and her pale beams fell ^j *er the isolated rock of Goncho, on cold ov. - f of which ig percbed t j ie state the summu ki dom / Risi a lone PT T °tbP rrP,r % a serrated range, the peak on thee est. ^ » t and lower extremity ot ts , riven by the hand of tin^ and numerous Ravines clothed in brushwood dip deep mto its furrowed bosom, while the ^rc > craggy scarp is left towering high and b*acK .over - . ^ aa A\ nf * vaIIpvs which on .either far he- 's "'&" **"" . , the wide-spreading valleys which on eithei side wind their tortuous course low. Sharp palisades guard the approach fended court-yards to a cluster of edifices which form the residence of the frontier governor, and the entrance to the places of confinement. Vanquished by fate, yet refusing to yield, a spasm of painful emotion covered with cold dew the brow of the haughty chief,, as his step passed the rocky threshold of the prison. But the thoughts of a free foot on the mountain-side and the signal ven- geance that would follow, banished from his stout heart the usual feelings of de- spair ; and in ironical words he returned the salutations of his brother abogaz, into whose keeping he was about to be con- signed. Wulasma Mohammad was a fat imperi- ous personage, of most sinister expression of countenance, and much more to be fear- ed than either loved or respected. The cool Wealthy air of his mountain fortress, and a quit* iif e f inactivity, had filled his veins with 3, i^h fl ow f blood, and he spent the greater pon~ n f the day over a jar of the potent hydromti. His body had become bloated, and his mVaj bewildered, by the fumes of the liquor ; aid dividing his time between dreaming and drinv m g. he left the charge of his bolts and avocations to his burly brother Jhalia, who, fortui^tely for the prisoner, was now engaged on tht fron- tier, quelling a disturbance which \iad been induced by the stupidity of his supe- rior. The vulture eye of the abogaz bright- ened up on the arrival of the illustrious Medoko ; and being at the moment unable to comprehend whether he came as a pris- oner or as a guest, an order for entertain- ment and wine rang through the apartment, instead of chains and fetters for the male- factor. Relieved from the ropes which had hitherto confined his movements, the chief was ushered with all ceremony into the great hall of the court ; nor was it until after reiterated requests on the part of the guard, and a solemn adjuration by the life of the king, that the blinking jailer, cheat- ed out of his expected carouse, consented to take some measures of precaution. Built on the only sloping face of the hill, the governor's nouses stretch entirely across the outlet, from scarp to scarp, and from his immediate bed-chamber two trap- doors cover the passages to the inner re- cesses of the prison. A staircase descends from one into the vaults under ground, where immured in chains are the state criminals, and the younger branches of the royal family ; and a passage leads through the other to a series of small apartments ESCAPE FROM THE DONJON ROCK. 157 erected upon the upper surface of the hill, but surrounded by strong- palisades to the very verge of the precipice. The scarp was of considerable height, and had never yet been attempted by those offenders whose lighter crimes had enforced a resi- dence in these more agreeable locations ; and the besotted wulasma being in no mood to reflect on the strength and daring -of his present charge, merely conducted him to one of these places of security, and barring the door on the outside, retired grumbling to the crown officials, after leaving an ample repast, with lights, for the entertainment of his distinguished pris- oner. The wax taper was flaming and sinking at intervals over the untouched food, as one quarter of an hour was passed in at- tentive musing ; but the peculiarities of the prisoner's situation were too striking not to be immediately taken advantage of, and he accordingly braced up his spirits for the enterprise. Having contrived with his host's knife to remove the thongs and sticks which composed the walls of his flimsy dungeon, he crept into an outward apart- ment, where the stars could be perceived twinkling brightly through an aperture. To wrench the iron bars from the window was the work of a moment ; and leaping from a considerable height, Medoko stood unshackled in the cool air of heaven. There remained still many hours of the night, and the darkness favored his under- taking, although little suited to the task to be performed ; but palisade and paling yielded to his strength and activity, and after an anxious hour of exertion, he reach- ed the dark precipice unnoticed and undis- covered. Nought broke the stillness of the scene save the sound of the wind whistling over the sharp crag's ; and as the daring fugi- tive stood for a time in meditation before venturing the awful leap, an owl, brushing his cheek, soared away on noiseless pin- ion ; the hoot which reechoed from below seeming as the voice of a spirit calling to follow without fear. Quickly recovering his confidence at the omen, and nerving himself for the perilous task, he slid down the face of the precipice, and recommend- ing his soul to the holy Virgin, quitted hold of the last tuft of grass which alone sus- tained him over the yawning gulf. Down, down dropped the chief, until his very senses reeled again ; but his flowing cot- ton robe materially assisted the miraculous descent, by catching the sharp points and restraining for a moment the rapidity of his flight. The strength of his long brawny arms served him well in this hour of need, as clutching the rocks he retained his hold for a second, in order to gain breath for the next dread plunge into the gloomy abyss. Then bounding again like the falling stone, he pursued his avalanche-like flight, till at length, bruised and bleeding, he reached the bottom of the rocky scarp, hitherto un- traversed except by the sticky foot of the lizard. The shrill note for assistance, well known to every Galla ear, was speedily answered by his watchful followers. Crowding round their beloved chief, they quickly bound up his wounds, and after a short rest the party recovered the beaten track. Placed once again on his own good steed, he raised his form in the stirrups, and shouted his bat- tle cry of defiance. Each bridle was laid loose upon the mane, and the wild riders plunged at speed down the flinty ravine, now partially illumined by the flash of the matchlocks from the alarmed garrison. A brave spirit is not to be subdued by exile, for every soil forms his home and his coun- try ; and away to the free plains of the Galla the headlong course was preserved, where Medoko was well assured of receiv- ing every sympathy and protection. CHAPTER LX. INSURRECTION OF THE GALLA. Tn the heart of the mountain range of Garra Gorphoo stood a large Galla hamlet — for it has been since visited in wrath by the monarch — situated in one of those sweet locations which the children of na- ture delight to select. The deep valley is thickly clothed with the most luxuriant cul- tivation, and its giant sides rise in a gentle slope, throwing out a succession of verdant terraces teeming with the herbs and flow- ers so well beloved by the pastoral tribe. On one of these stood the village of Mun- deeda, the residence of Goma, the great chief of the Abidchu. A bright green sward extended far in front, and the steep moun- tain that rises behind afforded shelter from the bleak blast of winter. A sparkling brook, ever dashing in tiny cascades down the craggy face, glides away in a quiet course over the enamelled meadow, until lost in the grove of dark junipers which rest on the side of a grassy knoll, where the sacrifice was performed in honor of the deities, and where the listless heathen was wont to dream away the hours of idleness. The tenements, although low and rudely 158 F ETHIOPIA. Constructed of stakes and mud. were warm and commodious ; and the numerous posts which rose from the clay floor to support the thatch, served as a resting-place for shields and spears and swords, which had imparted to the interior the semblance of an extensive armory. Everything was in a state of utter confusion and uproar. Large droves of wild shaggy horses and clusters of fiery savages were grouped on the plain outside. The ringing shout of the warrior mingled with the neigh of Ms war steed, and the din and the clatter of household avocations resounded from the interior of every hut. To add to the bus- tle, the Galla females were running from house to house with their long raven tresses streaming over their bare shoulders ; while their short leather petticoats, with embroid- ered flounces, displayed the well-shaped limbs and the graceful form, for which the tribe are so justly famed. In every nook large earthen jars, and wicker baskets filled with grain, were stored in readiness to supply the demands for food, as each tribe poured in to the gen- eral gathering of the clans. Black eyes peered wildly over the grinding-mill and the cauldron ; and the merry laugh at the novel appearance of the motley throng, with the suppressed scream of delight from the timid maiden, arose frequently from the dark corners of the hovels. Preparations were making for hospitality on the most extensive scale. A successful foray had that very morning returned laden with spoil, and the king of the Amhara had for once amply supplied the table of his revolt- ed lieges. Crowded around the cheerful blaze of a fierce fire that was crackling in the centre of the largest building, sat a score of per- sons, who were beguiling the time until the entertainment should be ready, by dis- cussing the daring escape of Medoko, and the success which would assuredly attend the movement of the morrow. The dress of the greater number of these men was the usual cotton cloth, black and soiled with the grease of years ; but the accu- mulated massive ivory rings upon the arm, the ostrich foather floating over the mat- ted locks white with a crust of mutton suet, and the spoils of the lion and the leopard dangling over the back, proclaimed the presence of the chieftains of the land. Their gaunt frames and supple limbs be- tokened a life of activity and endurance, and their restless eyes gleamed over the fire with all the quick suspicion of the savage. The black bull hide formed the only covering to the host of attendants thai thronged behind their respective lords, and a few Amhara robes flaunted in white and crimson, amid the sombre vestments of the Galla group. But Medoko and his sons, towering in stature above all their com- peers, appeared in the full costume of the Christian warriors of Efat. Decked in silver gauntlets and armlets, with the graceful akodama hanging in glit- tering clusters over their manly brows, the master spirits of the scene were easily to be distinguished. The usual robe of peace had been well replaced by the skin of the taw- ny lion, which nearly reached the ground. Fastended on one side around the sinewy throat, it allowed full freedom to the right arm, and only partially concealed the rich silk vest fitting lightly over the form, and the loose kilt-like trowsers which hung barely to the knee. The kindling fuel of insurrection had indeed been well fanned — ancient wrongs were fully brought to mind, and vengeance was liberally promised. Few were there present who had not suffered either in per- son or in property, from the midnight ap- pearance of the Christian despot. Hered- itary feud and quarrel had therefore been laid aside on the soul-inspiring words of the chief, and the weapons been eagerly seized in a common cause, at the thoughts of the devastation which had ever marked the bloody track of the Amhara host. These Galla tribes dwell with their horses in boundless prairies, engaged, some in the cultivation of the fruitful soil, and others in the pasturage of their nu- merous flocks, but all are ever ready on the moment to mount for the battle or the foray. Baggage and hospital are unknow T n to the wild array, and rations are found when required among the plundered herds of the enemy. A scrip of tobacco forms the only luxury in camp. A greasy cloth infolds by day and night the body of each stalwart savage. Lance and sword and shield complete his equipment; and the hardy host, leader and partisan, sleep with- out cover on the cold bare ground. The wild hordes from the boundless plains of the Hawash, under the gigantic Wodage Girme, first poured in their war- riors. The depths of the Moolo Falada forests next swelled the numbers, and the heights of Entotto and Sequala had com- pleted the rebel force, eager for spoil and for revenge, which was ready to cover the land with desolation on the morrow. The sacrifice to the Great Spirit had been that afternoon performed by the priest with every favorable result, and the prepa FEAST OF THE WARRIORS. 159 rations for the feast of departure were now completed. Bullocks and sheep were slaughtered by the score on the green meadow, and beside each carcass an abun- dance of bread and beer were deposited for the impatient guests, who immediately grouped around the food, and with keen knives commenced the attack. A long wicker table had been placed in the centre of the largest apartment, and deep earthen vessels, filled with thick pepper soup, were ranged in double line down the middle, while cakes of every description thickly covered the surface. The chief took his station at the top, and the guests were squatted on their hams on either side. Slave boys, on their kness, supported huge .jars of sour beer, and the females, perched upon adjoining bedsteads, were ready to dole out the more potent liquor. The steam of the bowls, containing a decoction of fowls, red pepper, onions, and grease, together with the more offensive effluvia from fifty rancied heads and as many unwashed persons, were endured with the most stoical indifference ; and the feeble light of a few tapers that gleamed faintly through the smoke, was just suffi- cient to reveal the rows of eager faces in earnest preparation, and the gleam of the sharp teeth whetting for the entertainment. The hum of voices in low conversation ceased on the moment, when the host, dip- ping a fragment of bread into one of the large bowls, dropped the savory morsel into his elevated mouth. Every h.?^d forthwith felt its way to the proven^? and the loud smacking of satisfied iips succeed- ed the suppressed chatter ot tongues. Ser- vants, bending over the guests, amply sup- plied their wants, by tearing the bread with their hands, and after a dip and a plunge into the greasy porridge, consigning the dripping morsel to the first empty fingers that were protruded. No fork or spoon graced the festive board. No conversation now enlivened the scene. All sat like silent wolves engaged in a plentiful repast, considering that one thing at a time was sufficient for all men. The delicate raw meat was next intro- duced, and the dismembered limbs of sheep and oxen were placed as a dessert upon the groaning board. The servants threw themselves upon the flesh, and, drawing their long crooked knives from their gir- . dies, cut and hacked the bloody joints into small squares, which were received from the fingers, and bolted with the greatest satisfaction, until nature cried enough. Then commenced the deep carouse. Horn after horn was drained. The presiding deities over the liquor jars were unceas- ingly employed in serving out their con- tents, and as the brain reeled under the influence of strong old mead, the words of contempt burst from every lip. " Who is the King of Shoa, that he should tram- ple upon men braver than himself? Here is our protector and avenger. Medoko is our leader, and he alone shall be our king !" But the uproar, which for a time rose wildly from the hut, gradually died away as the horn was carried with un- steady hand to the mouth. Warrior after warrior stretched himself to sleep beside the cleanly picked relics of his reeking feast ; and chief after chief, staggering a few paces from the table, rolled his head among the folds of his greasy cloth, and resigned himself to a heavy slumber. CHAPTER LXI. MASSACRE OF THE CHRISTIANS AT CHERKOS. The verdant meadows of the Shoan district of Daggee are strangely broken and intersected by low chains of barren rock, with here and there an isolated hil- lock crowned by the abode of the Chris- tian farmer; while between each little eminence rolls the lazy brook, winding sluggishly over the flowery plain, as if reserving its energies for the thundering leap into the great chasm of the Chacha. Broken, craggy, and desolate, this mighty abyss sinks upward of a thousand feet abruptly from the plain. Its giant sides are in parts slightly fringed with delicate moss or sweet-scented thyme. A few small huts dot the scanty terraces which have been raised during the heaving throes of its production ; but the wolf and the hyena chiefly tenant the dark caves and slippery fissures, while the vulture screams her death note over the yawning gulf. Su- perstition has wrapped the beetling cliff and the gloomy ravine in her dark embrace, for here the captive toils in the bowels of the earth to procure the stubborn iron. The clang of the dreaded smith disturbs the stillness of day, and the chant of the hymn rises solemnly in the morning mist from the adjacent church of the Saviour, which stands embosomed in a dark grove of junipers. Far down in the bottom the Chacha appears like the small murmuring mill-stream, although the accumulated waters of a broad plateau are there rolling in mad fury, to yield their tribute to the mighty Nile ; and at frequent intervals the 160 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. mountain torrents dash in wild spume over the frowning scarp which for miles, in one uninterrupted precipice, forms the impreg- nable fortification of the land. Near the commencement of this fantas- tic shaft, and barely a gunshot from its brink, stands Angollala, the rising capital of the kingdom, and the great outpost of defence to the upper pass into the Chris- tian land. Three" small hills which rise abruptly from the verdant plain, and in- close a circular area, had been judiciously selected as a site by the wary founder, but the settlement was at this date in all the disorder of infancy. Only a few hundred hovels, composed of most flimsy materials, had been hastily erected on the sloping sides of two of the hillocks ; but the small- est was distinguished by the more impo- sing edifice dedicated as a church to the Ark of the Holy Covenant, and its table summit was crowned with an ample resi- dence for the negoos. A few trees raised their stunted heads to the cold bleak wind above the thatch of the various kitchens and storehouses, which were crowded thick over the crest, and a deep belt of the flowering umbdr threw a zone of fragrant lilac blossoms around the royal buildings. Stones and rocks, strewed plentifully in every direc- tion by the hand of nature, formed a con- siderable impediment to the rapid advance of horsemen; and stoat heavy wooden pa- lings, which descended in a double or treble row far down the slope, completely screen- ed the royal inmates against any sudden surprise from the border foe. A wide meadow stretches from the pal- ace tumulus to the very brink of the abyss ; and on the opposite height is situated the lovely village of Cherkos, which, from its beauty, had been formerly designated by the Galla " The Queen of the Hill." Sheltered by a magnificent grove of ever- greens, the hamlet overlooked the pleas- ant slope which extends to the verge of the precipice, gayly diversified with rich fields of cultivation and plots of green pasture land. It had been captured from the heathen by the last king of Shoa ; and although colonized by favorite Christians of the court, the revenues were bestowed upon the church of the Saviour, which had been erected immediately below the village in the dark depths of the Chacha ravine, and which was now under the direction and guidance of Father Asrat. The hazy sun had sunk beyond the dark waters of the muddy Nile ; the rivulets were trickling in discolored streams from the surrounding hillocks to form a tempo- rary lake in the inclosed amphitheatre, and each reeking thatch sent up its quota to the cloud of thick mist, which was fast settling over the low hills of Angollala. The meadow brooks were swollen to the brim, and the long plains, brilliant with verdure, presented a pleasing prospect to the eye, although a most treacherous sur- face to the incautious foot. The monsoon was indeed raging in violence over the land ; and according to custom, the mon- arch, thinly attended by his household of- ficers and establishment, alone occupied the palace. All the governors and great men had taken leave and departed to their respective provinces, the capital was well nigh deserted, and as night closed in, the few remaining serf inhabitants were seek- ing a dry corner in their frail huts to shiv- er through the weary hours of darkness. As the moan of the wind is heard pre- ceding the coming storm, so the hum of a confused multitude first struck upon the practiced ear of the vigilant. The alarm was quickly spread by the fierce baying of the dogs. The chant of the singer sud- denly ceased within the palace, and the king followed by all the attendants rushed to the southern palisado. Then came dis- tinctly to every heart the dash of the horse at speed, clattering over the opposite heights above the Chacha, as the pagan host sur- rounded the devoted hamlet of Cherkos. The glare of light and the faint wreath of smoke next succeeded, as the torch spread frorn hut to hut. The wind blew cold and gusty, -and the flames wheeling in fearful eddies through the mist, revealed at inter- vals the cliff and the crag, and the peace- ful church reposing amid the dark grove of junipers hitherto unpolluted by the foot of the gentile. The wild shout of triumph, mingling with the shrill shriek of despair, now rolled in fitful notes across the intervening plain. The whole firmament was at length illu- mined by one fierce blaze of light, and the conflagration was witnessed in terror by the assembled inmates of the palace ; for the sacred precincts of the church itself had been now invaded, and a group of priests in their last extremity could be distinctly seen, surrounded by a mass of the savage foe. But the next eddy of mist from the boiling cauldron between, shrouded the scene from sight. The priest Asrat shud- dered at the thoughts of his narrow escape, for he had only that morning quitted the sacred shelter. But the eyeball was in vain strained to see what was passing. Dark- ness rendered its efforts abortive. By de- grees the flame expired, and one horrid THE BATTLE, AND ROUT OF THE REBELS. 161 shout of exultation from ten thousand wild throats rose over hill and dale, in earnest that the work of slaughter had been well finished for that night, and that numbers were not wanting for the morrow. Hurry and confusion reigned throughout the capital. The king was advised to avail himself of the protection of darkness, and retire to Ankober ; but his evening dream had been pleasant, and he was buoyed up by the words of the strong monk. " Shall I leave my children in the day of their dis- tress," he exclaimed, " and the seat of my fathers to be polluted by the accursed touch of the rebel ? No ; death is preferable to such disgrace." The royal gates opened to receive the terrified inhabitants, who came flocking up the hill. Every match- lock was lowered from the walls of the great hall, and distributed among the young and able-bodied. Doors were barred and barricaded, and sufficient means of defence for a time seemed to have miraculously sprung from the untenanted location. The pens of the scribes were now wield- ed with vigor ; and as each tiny letter, or token, or entreaty, was handed for approval, the wild horseman mounted on the moment, and his long hair streamed in the night breeze, as, floundering through the muddy outlet, he dashed at speed over the eastern plain. The pressing call for aid flew quick through the land. The love and fear of the king brought governor and vassal to the rescue ; and as hatred of the rebel's insolence even stimulated the dull spirits to action, long ere the cock had first an- nounced the advance of morning, nume- rous bands from the immediate vicinity had assembled on the meadow, a living barrier between the beleaguered monarch and his stern foe. CHAPTER LXII. BATTLE OF ANGOLLALA. The day dawned, but there remained nothing of the late beautiful village of Cherkos. Death and desolation had spread to the very gates of the capital, and the rocky ridge was covered with a dark mass of the Galla host. But the plains were too miry to support the weight of man and horse; and after an ineffectual attempt from one or two small parties, the cloud ot war, with the bright lances flashing from its dark bosom, settled again upon the scene of slaughter. Frightful indeed was the sight which met the gaze of the Amhara, as they took their position in front of the plundered village on the frowning scarp of the ravine. The op- posite crags were studded with the mangled bodies of their murdered compatriots. Men, women, and children had been ruthlessly sacrificed, and the thousand favored inhab- itants of a pleasant abode now lay stark and weltering among the rocks, where the strength of the fierce pagan had hurled them. The heaving of an arm here and there, evinced that the spark of life still remained in some ; but the chasm was im- passable to the foot of man, and the wolf and hyena lay undisturbed, gorged and glutted after their reeking festival. The sun shone brightly for the few days following the appearance of the heathen host, and the surface of the muddy meadow had recovered its wonted consistency. Both parties were anxious for the combat which was to decide the question of su- premacy, for both were equally hard-press- ed for the means of subsistence. With their usual reckless indifference to the fu- ture, the Galla had wasted the country, and rioted in the destruction. The sup- plies brought to the royal camp were nearly exhausted ; and the king also, galled by the presence of the rebellious army within sight of his capital, and having now suc- ceeded in assembling a much superior force, resolved upon giving battle on the morrow. Prayers and psalms had been recited the livelong night — vows were made at every shrine in the kingdom — and the ark of the cathedral of St. Michael had been trans- ported from Ankober under a canopy of red cloth, to shed its holy influence over the Christian army. At an early hour the king, under the shade of the velvet um- brellas, surrounded by his chiefs, nobles, and high priests, and preceded by kettle- drums and wind instruments, issued from the palace gateway, and with his band of matchlockmen, took up a position about a mile from the town. During the night, detachments had been steadily moving from every direction to this fixed point. Column after column streamed through the valley, or rolled down the sloping hih • and as the day dawned, the warriors of Amhara formed a deep line of horse and foot on either side of the monarch, one narrow plain and the river Chacha alone separating them from the enemy. Nor were the Galla in any way slow to take their station, bristling in a dark front along the opposite ridge, where the tall figure of the rebel was distinctly to be observed marshalling his wild forces for the coming fray. 162 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. The battle commenced by repeated dis- charges from the king's gunmen ; but the distance was too great for execution, and a shout of derision answered each impotent volley. The gigantic Tunkaiye first press- ed forward to the close encounter, and the cavaliers of Shoa were not slow in follow- ing his example, for many fought under the eyes of their wives and children, all for the honor of the king and the glory of true re- ligion ; and the number of their lances fearfully exceeded those in the opposing ranks. Impetuous in the assault, the pagan host came down like the rushing blast, and the stones flew far under the clatter of their hoofs. But the} r were fiercely met by the long-bladed spears of the Amhara, and every inch of ground was for once stoutly contested. The roar of the foaming cata- ract, which thundered down within fifty yards of the battle-field, was lost in the hoarse yells which rung through the air. The rocky bed proved for a time the scene of slaughter, and the turbid waters receiving numbers of dying and wounded wretches, hurried them to eternity. At length, each individual singling out his foe, the contest assumed the confused appearance of a chance medley. The long lance met with little opposition from the cotton robe ; and, deprived of other weapons, Christian and Galla, grappling stoutly together, fought with sword and knife, and in the fury of the moment, and in the excitement of the struggle, many rolled over the frowning scarp, clinging tightly together in the last embrace of death. Medoko and his gallant sons were everywhere in the thickest of the fight. His shout, rising high over the storm, animated the faint-hearted, and his pres- ence roused to new life and exertion the successful partisan. Many of the Amhara bands were already reeling- from the re- peated shock of the wild riders of the Ha- wash, when suddenly, in the very heat of the action, a large body of warriors, clothed in black mantles, and armed with long heavy spears, rushed down the hill on foot, and, prostrating themselves as +Ley passed the royal umbrellas, descended fresh into the arena. The fierce inhabit- ants of Mans had sped to the rescue from the hereditary estates, and their savage ferocity and reckless bravery was well known throughout the land. The rela- tions and the household retainers of the rebel attempted to breast the storm, but they were scattered like autumnal leaves before the angry blast ; and the chief ar- rived to the succor only to behold the spot j strewed with the bodies 01 numbers of his stoutest partisans, and to witness his be- I loved son, the youthful Hailoo, sink before I his eyes, transfixed by a dozen spear- blades. A panic seized the pagans ; and, I dismayed and broken-hearted, the host fled ! tumultuously in every direction. In vain Medoko performed the most in- credible acts of valor — his voice had now lost its charm ; and, crippled by a spear which had penetrated his shoulder — his proud heart swelling with indignation — he at length perceived that the fortune of the day was not to be retrieved. Cutting his way single-handed through the squadrons of the enemy, he also gave the loose rein to his horse, and scoured over the hills. The sun had reached the meridian when the hot pursuit commenced, and the arm of vengeance was not stayed until long after his sinking below the western hori- zon. Every Amhara spear was dripping in blood to the haft. The stain of gore was on every cheek, and as the weary warrior returned from the massacre, the chest of his jaded war-steed was orna- mented with the cloth of the accursed gentile, whose body he had left to the fangs of the wild beast. After galloping for some miles along with the few chiefs who had escaped from the fatal field, a short halt was allowed to refresh the horses, and Medoko proclaimed his intention of accompanying the party- no farther. Asylum and assistance were in vain offered ; the stout heart of the rebel had been quelled in the late heavy loss he had sustained, and for a time at least, he bowed to the power of the mon- | arch of Shoa. Short was the moment al- lowed for the explanation, for the pursuer was hotly crossing the last range of hills, and the band, after a hurried parting and a hope for better days, mounted and pressed forward. Medoko and his surviving son Chara, now commenced the more difficult under- taking of threading- their path back again among the advancing Amhara ; but the perfect knowledge of the localities enabled them to take advantage of every hill and hollow. After many weary hours of anx- iety they passed the capital undiscovered, and urging their horses to speed took the road to Ankober. The Bereza was roaring from bank to brae, but the gallant steeds successfully breasted the rushing waters. The king's watchmen had left their cold posts, in order to take shelter from the cut- ting blast, before the riders swept down the rocky defile of the Chaka, toward the wood- ed Sides of Mann at , and long ere the voice ASSASSINATION OF MEDOKO. 163 of the brotherhood had risen in the matin chant, the rebels had been formally admit- ted to sanctuary, and were safely reposing in the sacred monastery of Affaf Woira. CHAPTER LXII1. TRAGIC END OF MEDOKO. Breaking suddenly through the tangled underwood which springs luxuriantly among the dense forest, at the foot of the great mountain range, an open glade is dis- closed to view, with the tall juniper trees rising unencumbered from the emerald turf. The church of Affaf Woira and the tene- ment of Abba Salama, its superior, stand inclosed by a rough stone wall, and indi- vidual huts are scattered in clusters over a gentle eminence which rises on the steep side of the river, where the indolent bro- thers, " Under the shade of melancholy boughs, Lose and neglect the creeping hours of time." An air of the most perfect repose usual- ly pervades the scene. The inmates are alike indifferent to the blast of winter and to the cares of life. Majestic trees tower high overhead, yielding undisturbed protec- tion to the vulture and the white Ibis. The " monk of the wood," the Gureza ape, there displays his variegated coat, floating in peace among the mossy branches ; and while everv v -eath from beneath wafts up the ^.xtimed air, the lazy monk of the monastery during the entire day basks in the sun amid the bright flowers of nature's growth, gazing in apathy on the sparkling stream which steals through the forest, half hid in a fringe of the willow and the bam- boo. But bustle and confusion for once dis- turbed this dreamy repose. The priests had been engaged in noisy choir, and the sacred drum had resounded since dawn of day. At length the portals of the hallowed edifice were thrown open, and the holy pro- cession, under the thundering chorus of an Abyssinian psalm, streamed over the bright green sward. The gay umbrellas of the church, rich in satin and silver, led the van, and the corpulent superior in his white cot- ton robes followed the insignia, bestriding a sleek mule decked in metal chains and tinkling bells. At his side marched the bearers of the straight falchions, sheathed in scabbards of polished silver. A band of priests followed, with their heads swathed in folds of white cloth, and their persons wrapped in black woollen cloaks, profusely studded with blood-red crosses and other emblems of Christianity ; and closing the procession strode two hundred stout dirty monks, clothed in the skin of the wild an- telope, with their shaven heads enveloped in dark greasy cloths, each carrying in his hand a small iron cross, and each joining the tribute of his lusty throat to the deaf- ening chant. Dell and dingle rung again as the psalm increased in violence, and the cavalcade, threading the intricacies of the wood, proceeded on its mission of mercy, to implore pardon for the rebel who had thrown himself on the protection of the monastery. The conference with the monarch was long and stormy. The royal vengeance was far from being appeased, but feelings of revenge were restrained by his fear of the church, and more particularly so at the present juncture, when religious disputes regarding the two natures of Christ were beginning to excite an unusual ferment in many parts of the kingdom. An unwilling pardon was at length extorted on the se- curity of the petitioning band, and the tri- umphant monks returned amid the joyful acclamations of the female inhabitants of Shoa, whose shrill voices are raised on every possible occasion, and whose feelings were in the present instance enlisted in the behalf of their old favorite. The trip also would appear to have been profitable to the holy fathers, for it was currently reported that one-half of the remaining wealth of Medoko, was the stipulated price to be paid for the monastic intercession. The nature of Abyssinian feelings, and the custom of the land, alike impel the humbled grandee to tempt again the slip- pery ladder of power ; and disgraced for a time, the courtier, bending his neck to the misfortune, dances attendance on his ca- pricious master until fickle fortune again smiles upon his fallen condition. Unless enjoying the favor of the monarch and basking in the sunshine of the court, he is held of no account whatever ; and the quiet retirement of country life is alike despised and detested by a race, who are not only ignorant of its pleasures, but who possess neither amusements nor intellectual re- sources. The property and estates of Medoko had not been confiscated, and months rolled quietly along, as day after day he took his station among the courtiers in waiting ; but the eye of the monarch was turned in cold indifference upon his former favorite ; and there were not wanting counsellors to whisper deeds of blood into his ear. Be- sides the father confessor, the haughty 164 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA chief had many other enemies, who were chafed at the sight of the numerous band of well-equipped followers, that Medoko still entertained upon his ample means. Many also had lost relations during the rebellion ; and misfortune had not abated one atom of the imperious demeanor which ever characterized the chief. The feast of Maskal was now approach- ing ; and it being rumored that honors and government were to be again bestowed upon " the murderer of the Amhara," as the rebel was denominated among the con- spiring band, measures were taken to coun- teract the royal intention, if such had been really entertained. The most odious cal- umnies were industriously circulated ; fresh accusations of disloyalty were daily carried to the palace ; and the monarch, hourly assailed on every side, at length resolved to test the feelings of his vassal, by the offer of an inferior post in the un- healthy country of Giddem. For the last time, the gallant chief at the head of his followers, swept up the palace hill of Angollala ; and leaving, ac- cording to the etiquette, his son Chara, together with his retainers, in the middle court-yard, where shields and spears must be deposited, Medoko crossed the inclo- sure, and alone and unattended entered the inner wicket. On the several faces of the inner square are the entrances to the principal buildings of the palace. The great hall of enter- tainment on one side, faces the king's sta- bles on the other ; and the artificer's work- shops stand opposite the balcony of justice ; but all are connected by stone walls and stout palisades, through which private wickets lead to the interior apartments. His majesty had not yet taken his seat in public ; but the usual throng of people were lounging about the yard, or seated on the rough bedsteads which line one corner for the convenience of the great. Medoko had hardly taken his solitary seat, when wreathed in smiles the father confessor approached his victim, and whis- pering into his ear the intentions of the king, strongly advised him to reject the proposal with scorn; and presently the four conspiring chiefs advanced from the interior, bearing the royal preferment to the country which was so thoroughly de- tested, and which had been hitherto offered only to men of low degree. The royal presentation, although receiv- ed with the impatient curl of the lip, and an indignant breathing from the distended nostril, was declined in courteous terms — " The slave of the king desires only to be near the person of his master." But far different was the insolent answer carried back to the monarch, whose superstitious feelings were further irritated by the pre- vious discourse and forebodings of the monk ; for a black bullock had been dis- covered lying dead at the threshold of the gateway, portending that on that day an untimely fate awaited some one within the royal precincts. For a time no word escaped the moody lip of the monarch. His features remain- ed fixed and still ; but a withering glance from his solitary eye shot over the band, as he dismissed them from his presence with the cutting remark, " That they were all traitors alike, and lazy cravens to boot." The hint was sufficient to Guffa Woo- sen, the deck agafari, a man who stickled at no atrocity to gratify his master and to serve his own ends. After a hurried and mysterious consultation with six others equally unprincipled as himself, they pro- ceeded together into the outer court-yard. Approaching by degrees, the band sur- rounded the bed of the chief, who was lull- ed into fatal security by a message that the king was about to appear to receive in person the refusal of office in Giddem ; and while bandying a joke about the frail tenure of the dungeons of Goncho, five long-bladed knives were suddenly sheathed to the hilt in his brawny back. Undaunted to the death, Medoko reared himself with difficulty frou Ms couch, and his good sword flashed instantaneously from the scabbard. He had been unwarily caught in the toils ; but, like the wounded lion, he stood fiercely to bay, and some of the hunters paid dearly for their treache- rous sport. In the hour of battle his sword seldom required a second blow, and as the trenchant blade now fiercely descended in- to the neck of the chief conspirator, the head of Guffa Woosen for a moment drooped upon his shoulder, and in the next his lifeless trunk fell heavily to the ground. Again the ruddy steel gleamed overhead, but the energy was fast fleeting from the stout sinew, and Selunko, although marked for life with a desperate slash over the face, succeeded, with the remnant of his cowardly ruffians, in basely escaping from the scene. A general rush and scramble now ensued for the tops of the walls and houses ; and from these ~Wated places of security, savage yells proclaimed the per- petration of the dastardly deed. The king seized a double-barrelled gun from the wall, lest the mighty warrior should at- tempt to storm the harem; and a high THE MIGHTY FALLEN. 165 tribute was paid to the single arm which had thus cleared the court. Desperately wounded, the chief now staggered across the yard, fainting and falling more than once ere he reached the gateway. No doorkeeper remained to dis- pute the egress, and as yet none dared to cross the path of the stricken brave. One little inclosure alone separated him from his devoted followers, but his strength was fast sinking with the welling blood, and after swaying for a time from side to side, utterly exhausted he fell, with a groan, upon his knee, in the last pangs of death. Tunkaiye, the great bulwark of the throne, was the first who recovered from the panic, and cautiously advancing with the chosen of the Amhara chivalry, he be- held through the wicket the situation of the chief. Rushing through the door, he dealt a blow from behind on the neck of the recumbent figure, and the stalwart frame sunk to rise no more. One faint struggle of the right arm was alone to be distinguished, and one word was indistinct- ly murmured amid the gurgling of the flow- ing blood ; for the long knives of the assas- sins had penetrated into a brave heart, and the victory over the king's enemy had been already achieved. Crowds now rushed \.o the spot, and the limbs were hacked to pieces by the mis- erable poltroons amid the coarsest ribaldry and mirth. One wretch, as he thrust his crooked knife into the late brilliant eye, exclaimed, " How is it that my father now bears the bite without power to brush away the gnat ?" and another, after succeeding with difficulty in hewing through the iron muscles of the stout arm, declared, with a laugh, that " the skin of an elephant was composed of less tough material." Deprived of their weapons, and of the countenance of the mighty fallen, Medoko's son and followers surrendered on the first summons ; and a dog, carrying off his father's arm, brushed past young Chara as he entered the murderous court-yard. Stones and sticks were still being expend- ed on the remains of mortality which were strewed in every direction. All human resemblance had already been entirely ef- faced, and a deep pool of blood remained to mark the dire tragedy. To this hour the stain is settled upon the spot ; and it is daily before the eyes of the pepetrators of the outrage. The stern warrior is never mentioned within the pre- cincts of the palace, and rich offerings are continually made to all the churches in the land, to dissipate the unpleasant dreams which too frequently haunt the royal couch. But although the name is now used among the Amhara only to still the unruly child, the gallant Medoko is the darling theme of the roving Galla. The heathen female still draws the long tress across her flash- ing eye at the recollection of his fate ; and the chief yet thinks with respect of the brave spirit, who could quell the feud and the intestine quarrel, and who had led the wild host with success, to spoil the domin- ions of the Christian despot. CHAPTER LXIV. THE GALLA BORDERS. PCOCLAMATION OF WAR. Shortly after the departure of the em- bassy from Ankober, a robbery was com- mitted in the residency ; and the delin- quents having been duly traced out by the lebashi, were sent in chains to Angollala, and incarcerated in one of the palace court- yards. The principal party proved to be a slave of the king, aided and abetted by a deftera, who had been for some time em- ployed with his pen ; and the greater por- tion of the stolen property was shortly returned by the hands of the chief smith, who succeeded the disgraced page in the office of baldoraba. " Strangers have visit- ed me from a far country," was the mes- sage wherewith he was charged, "and while residing under my protection have 'been plundered by my subjects. My name has become tarnished. I have beaten the culprits with sticks, and shall cut off the ears of the slave Wooseni, and sell him to the merchants of Hurrur." Intercession, backed by presents, was successfully made with the king and queen, in behalf of the offender, a lad of ten years of age, and he was liberated after severe castigation. "God must be angry with me," sobbed the juvenile thief, who had once before been detected beneath a bed with a pair of scissors in his possession — " God must be angry with me, for I have only twice attempted to rob, and on both occasions have I been punished." Among the articles stolen, which cor . sisted chiefly of beads, were sovereigRd of William the Fourth and of Queen Victo- ria; and suspicions arising in the royal mind that these were not of gold, as as- serted by the owner, his majesty proposed testing the metal by the ordeal of fire. A coin of the former reign was accordingly thrust into the forge, and having then been immersed in water, was broken with a 166 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. chisel by the conclave of smiths. " Call you this English gold?"' exclaimed the negoos ; " here then is a piece of Abys- sinian gold for you," — and throwing upon the ground the brass foil of a sword scab- bard, he laughed immoderately. A four- penny piece was then exhibited, as a somewhat more portable and commodious medium of exchange than blocks of salt, and the figure on the obverse immediately elicited the inquiry whether the queens of England went forth with their armies to battle, since Britannia was equipped with spear and shield, and was about to set a sareti* in her crown like the warrior king of the Amhara. A quarrel of long standing between Ay to Melkoo and the commander-in-chief of the gunmen, who ranked among the foremost of the court sycophants, had been this day brought for adjustment before the royal tribunal. The award being found in fa- vor of the appellant, the master of the horse, although a great favorite, was hand- cuffed, and imprisoned in the brewery, but after a few hours' durance he was set at large, and his punishment commuted to a fine of seven hundred and fifty pieces of salt. " It is of no consequence," he re- marked somewhat unwisely, " I shall car- ry a mamalacha to the ' commander,' and he will pay the amount for me." This boast had given occasion to mali- cious insinuations on the part of his ene- mies, and after dark there came a confiden- tial message from the palace, to the effect that Ayto Melkoo was suspected of con- cealing certain "pleasing things" under- stood to have been received from the for- eigners. But this imputation, which, if confirmed, must have involved disgrace and confiscation of property, proved, fortu- nately for the accused, to have no founda- tion. A better instance could scarcely have been adduced to illustrate the fleeting and precarious nature of the despot's smiles. The mother of the tottering favorite, a na- tive of Ambasel in the province of Lasta, was for many years the favorite mistress of Hatze Yasoo, then emperor of Gondar, on whose demise she became an inmate of the seraglio of Asfa Woosen. Ayto Wa- Ji, the distinguished Galla governor of An- goJala, being thrown into prison by the latter monarch, contrived during his incar- ceration to solace himself with the pres- ence of the lady, and the master of the horse was the result of the intrigue. No * The sareti is a sprig of wild asparagus worn in Shoa as a token of victory, as will be seen presently. disgrace whatever attaching to his illegiti- mate origin, he was regarded in the light of a member of the royal family ; and, brought up in the palace, he has succeed- ed during three several reigns in maintain- ing a position at court, which might now have been sacrificed by the clandestine pos- session of a dozen ells of English broad- cloth. The amende was, nevertheless, made to him in the course of a few days, by the addition of another village to his landed possessions at Doba. Such paltry proofs of espionage were in- variably followed by some especial token of the royal good-will, ushered in by a goat or a jar of honey, as a peace-offering. In this instance, after the despot had been fully satisfied of the groundless nature of his surmises, an invitation was tendered to accompany him the next day on a shooting excursion, and a Galla ram, the size of a well-grown calf, was thrust into the tent by a dirty page, who, as usual, composed himself to sleep in a corner after the due delivery of his message. Saturday, being the Jewish Sabbath, brings rest from all labor, and is invariably devoted by his majesty to excursions abroad. Starting on horseback at a» early hour, a gallop of several miles led across the Cha- cha, and over the border of the Galla de- pendencies, to an extensive, but narrow sheet of water, where an otter had lately been seen. " It has hands, and nails, and finders like a man," observed the monarch gravely, and a head like a black dog, and a skin like velvet ; and it builds its house at the bottom of the river, and plucks grass, and washes it in the water ; and all my people thought it was the devil, and would kill them with strong medicine. Now is this animal found in your country, and how do they call its name ?" But the appearance of numerous ducks and geese soon diverted the royal attention. Drawing up with his retinue, and resting his weapon over the shoulder of an atten- dant to insure steady aim, the king kept up a murderous fire with ball, shot, and slugs, during a full half hour. The weather was passing cold, and ever and anon his majes- ty blew his nose betwixt his thumb and fore-finger, and wiped them on the mantle of the governor of Bulga, who eagerly proffered it for acceptance. A serious dim- inution in the numerical strength of the feathered fools resulted in no attempt to take wing, or even to shift position. In- credible though it may appear, the living still paddled among the floating carcasses of their slaughtered comrades, as if no- thing had happened, until the destroyer ROYAL SPORTING— DEBRA LIBANOS. 167 weary of persecuting the " unclean birds," which were not even taken out of the wa- ter, remounted and crossed the country at speed to a wide meadow, traversed by the serpentine Chacha. Bald coots were here playing at hide-and- seek, while red-headed grebes dived and warily reappeared for an instant, as the noisy cavalcade advanced. The spoonbill, and the leather-necked ibis of Egyptian veneration, displayed their white plumage along the sedge-grown borders. The he- ron, the snakebird, and the redshank, waded through the shallow drifts ; and geese, wid- geon, teal, and mallard, rose whirring in the air at every step. But amid all this in- viting variety, the snowy egret was the ob- ject of the king's ambition ; and although, after many unsuccessful attempts, he failed in adorning his head with her unsullied plumes, he retired perfectly satisfied with his skill as a rifleman, after a long stray shot had perforated the eye of an " alata furda" This is a gigantic slate-colored crane, with eccentric red wattles, and sev- eral pairs, that were marching over the mead, had previously elicited most notable displays of gunmanship on the part of the royal favorites. Abogaz Maretch, with his feudal train of Abidchu, joined the corltge as it pass- ed Wona-badera, his seat of government. The treeless expanse passed over- — a type of the entire Galla territory north of Moolo- Falada, where forest land commences — consists of wide valleys clothed with a ver- dant carpet of grass, clover, and trefoil, which, from their redundant luxuriance, al- most impede progress. Every little inter- secting eminence is completely covered with flourishing fields of barley and wheat, and crowned with villages fortified with strong stockades ; and one ancient woira excepted, whose venerable boughs formed in days gone by a trysting-place to the hostile pagans, not a single bush or tree was visible during the long ride. An extensive barrier of loose stones has- tily thrown up during the rebellion of Me- doko, fortifies the southeastern environs of Angullala ; and although confessedly inferior to the wall of China, it is calcu- lated to offer temporary opposition to horse- men who are no Nimrods. Returning according to undeviating wont by another road than that by which he had set out, his majesty passed through a palisaded wicket in this breastwork, which is dignified with the title of " the King's Gate," and forms the scene of the few public executions that take place. Chiefs, governors, and visitors are accorded the privilege of squeezing through with the crowned head, but fol- lowers and people of low degree are com- pelled by the stick of the doorkeeper, to adopt a circuitous route over a belt of stony hills adjoining, which form a continuation of the defences. The ascent to the palace was accom- plished under the wild choral chant which invariably announces return from the ex- cursion abroad. The road was lined with pilgrims clothed in yellow garments, and having each a cross of blue clay upon his forehead. They had been to perform their vows, or redeem their pledges left, at the sanctuary of Debra Libanos,* chief seat of learning in Shoa, and the renow T ned scene of the miracles of Tekla Haimanot, its founder. Hard pressed by his enemies, the patron and lawgiver of Ethiopia is said to have leapt through the trunk of a venera- ble tree, a seam in which yet vouches for the truth of the legend that it spontaneous- ly clave asunder at his holy bidding, but closed to foil the sacrilegious assailants who sought his life. Being athirst, he prayed unto God, whereupon the archangel Michael, who was his mediator, caused a fountain to rise at his feet, supplied by the stream of the river Jordan. A cross which he carried in his hand had been swept away during the passage of a neighboring tor- rent, but no sooner did he curse the waters, than they were dried up, and have never since flowed above the channel ! The remains of the saint still cast a halo over the spot in which they lie interred, and the pool which he blessed, retains to this day the property of cleansing the leper, and healing the patient, however diseased, who shall immerse on either of the three days annually devoted to the commemora- tion of his birth, death, and ascension. Fa- mous as the most holy of shrines through- out Southern Abyssinia, men of every rank, from the monarch to the meanest peasant, if unable to repair thither in person, dele- gate their substitute with offerings accord- ing to their wealth. Having on his way bathed in the " Segga Wadiim," or " river of flesh and blood " — a tributary to the Nile formed by the confluence of the Sana Robi and the Sana Boka — the pilgrim quaffs the waters of the mineral well, describes upon his forehead the sacred emblem of Chris- tianity, and after kissing at the adjacent church of St. Mary, a cross which is as- serted by the priesthood to have fallen from heaven, he is secure against sickness and witchcraft. The very earth from Debra Libanos is carried away as an antidote to * Mount Lebanon, 168 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. maladies, and all who meet the returning pilgrim, fall prostrate upon the ground, and kiss the dust from off his feet. No sooner had his majesty entered the palace gate than the sound of the imperial drum announced the presence of the her- ald, and crowds collected to listen to the royal edict. Standing upon the hill-side beneath the shadow of a solitary stunted tree, which, had it a tongue, could unfold many a tale of wo and oppression, he thus proclaimed in a loud voice to the multitude assembled, " Hear, oh, hear ! Thus saith the king. Behold we have foes, and would trample upon their necks. Prepare ye every one for war. On the approaching festival of Abba Kinos, whoso faileth to present himself at Yeolo as a good and loyal subject, mounted, armed, and carrying pro- visions for twenty-one days, shall be held as a traitor, and shall forfeit his property during seven years." CHAPTER LXV. A LECTURE ON PHYSIC. The mercy, and the medical skill of the foreigners, had already produced their ef- fect in a nation possessing neither of the two. Woizoro Indanch Yellum, aunt to his majesty, being shortly on a visit to the court from Achun-Kurra, was made the bearer of compliments on the part of Ze- nama Work* the Quecn-dowager, respect- ing the pardon of the delinquent slave ;" but they were accompanied by an admoni- tion that the British guests of her son would do well not to squander the entire of their pleasing things among those who knew not how to appreciate them. " We have seen wondrous things in the time of Sahela Selassie," concluded this message from " the golden shower," — " and the prophe- cies respecting the red men have indeed fully come to pass." The fame, too, of the operation performed with such singular success upon the gov- ernor of Mentshar had spread far and wide, and applications for medical aid became daily more numerous — the patient, in lieu of tendering a fee, invariably insisting, when cured, upon the receipt of some re- ward. Priests, renowned for the sanctity of their lives, applied in the same breath for a white head-dress, and for a remedy against disorders superinduced " by eating the flesh of partridges." Even nuns did * ». e. Rain of gold. not disdain assistance, and many a hapless victim to Galla barbarity sought a cure for his irreparable misfortunes. An exceedingly ill-favored fellow, stri- ding into the tent, exhibited a node upon the forehead, which he desired might be instantly removed. " The knife, the knife," he exclaimed ; " off with it ; my face is spoiled, and has become like that of a cow." A ruffian who, in a domestic brawl, had contrived to break the arm of his wife, entreated that it might be " mended ;" and a wretched youth, whose leg had been fractured twelve months previously, was brought in a state of appalling emaciation, with the splinters protruding horribly. Amputation was proposed as the only re- source, but the master of the horse was loud in his opposition. " Take my advice," he remonstrated, " and leave this business alone. If the boy dies, all will declare that the ' proprietor of the medicines ' killed him — and furthermore, should he survive, it will be said the Almighty cured him." In Shoa, the practice of surgery directs the removal of a carious tooth with the hammer, punch, and pincers of the black- smith. Should venesection be required, a stick placed in the patient's mouth is tight- ened by means of a thong passed round the neck, and the distended veins of the forehead are then opened with a razor. Cupping, performed by means of a horn exhausted by suction, is also extremely fashionable ; and actual cautery, which is believed to strengthen the muscles of the spear arm, is applied by means either of a pile of lighted cotton, or a stick heated by rapid friction. Fractured bones that have united badly, are said to be violently re- broken to admit of their being properly set; and upon the authority of Ayto Habti, the chief physician in ordinary, it may also be stated, that splinters coming away are successfully supplied by portions of the skull of a newly-slain sheep or goat ! But amulets and enchantments are by all classes held far more efficacious than the drugs of the Abyssinian " possessor of remedies,"* which, of a truth, must be ac- knowledged to form but a feeble materia medica. Insanity, epilepsy, delirium, hys- teria, St. Vitis's dance, and in fact every obstinate disorder for which no specific is known, is invariably ascribed to the influ- ence of demons or sorcerers, and the pa- tient is either declared to be possessed of a devil, or to labor under the disastrous consequences of inumbration by the shad- * Bala medanit, " the master of the medecines," is the term applied to every physician. MEDICAL TREATMENT— THE EVIL EYE. 169 ow of an enemy. Shreds of blue paper are held to be preservatives against head- ache, and the seeds of certain herbs are worn as charms against hydrophobia and disasters on a journey ; but of these, some must be plucked with the left hand, and others with a finger upon which there is a silver ring, and all under a fortunate horoscope, or they can avail nothing. Small-pox frequently devastates the land, and a free boy of pure blood is then select- ed from among the number of the infected, and carefully secluded until the pustules are ripe. Many hundred persons assem- ble, and a layman, chosen for the rectitude of his life, having mixed the lymph with honey, proceeds to inoculate with a razor. Death is often the consequence of the clumsy operation, of the origin of which no tradition exists ; neither has any charm been yet discovered to avert the scourge. While invalids of all classes daily flocked to the camp of the Europeans for medical assistance, applications were not wanting from the palace in proof of the reputation acquired. One of the princesses royal,' who had been lodged with the illustrious visitor from Achun-Kurra, in the crimson pavilion presented by the British Govern- ment, found herself in need of advice ; and on being visited, lay concealed beneath the basket pedestal of a wicker dining-table, whence her sprained foot was thrust forth for inspection. Divers respectable duen- nas of the royal kitchen, who had been se- verely scalded by the bursting of a pottage cauldron, were also treated with success, when they had been given over by the boay physician, at whose merciless hfi^ds the sobbing patients had been petered over, with honey and soot ; and * mutton bone was extracted from tb^ throat of a page, where it had been frmiy wedged for three days. But the -ure which elicited the most unqualMed and universal amaze- ment, was? that of a favorite baalomaal,* who, lpioring under a fit of apoplexy, which had deprived him of animation, was suddenly revived by venesection, after fu- migation with ashkoko goomunj had been tried without the smallest avail, and prepa- rations were already commencing for his interment. Medicine, in fact, now engrossed the entire of the royal attention. Phials and drugs without number were sent to the tent, with a request that they might be so labelled as to admit of the proper dose be- ing administered to patients laboring under complaints for the removal of which they * Officer of the royal household, t Hyrax's cabbage. 12 were respectively adapted. Two or more invalids, who objected to be seen, were certain to arrive at the palace every four- and- twenty hours ; and no subterfuge was left untried, by which to augment the al- ready ample stock of pills on hand. " You will take care not to give the whole of the remedies to my people, or there will be none left for myself, should I fall sick," was an almost daily message from the selfish despot. But prescriptions designed for his own use, were invariably tried first upon a subject; and the much-dreaded goulard-wash having been again prepared, directions were given to apply it constant- ly to a boy who had been found laboring under ophthalmia, in order to ascertain whether he died or survived. The most particular inquiries were insti- tuted relative to the mode of counteracting the influence of the evil-eye, and much disappointment expressed at the unavoida- ble intimation that the dispensary of the foreigners contained neither " the horn of a serpent," which is believed to afford an invaluable antidote against witchcraft, no preservative against wounds in the battle- field, nor any nostrum for "those who go mad from looking at a black dog." " We princes also fear the sVnall-pox," said his majesty, " and therefore never tarry long in the same place. Nagasi, my illustri- ous ancestor, suffered martyrdom from this scourge. Have you no medicine to drive it from myself?" Vaccine lymph there was in abundance, but neither Christian, Moslem, nor Pagan had yet consented to make trial of its vir- tues. Glasses hermetically sealed, be- twixt which the perishable fluid had been deposited, were exhibited, and its use expounded. "No, no!" quoth the king, as he delivered the acquisition to his mas- ter of the horse, with a strict injunction to have it carefully stitched in leather — " this is lalakli medanit, very potent medi- cine indeed ; and henceforth I must wear it as a talisman against the evil that beset my forefathers." " You must now give me the medicine which draws the vicious waters from the leg," resumed his majesty, " and which is better than the earth from Mount Lebanon ; — the medicine which disarms venomous snakes, and that which turns the gray hairs black ; — the medicine to destroy the worm in the ear of the queen, which is ever burrowing deeper ; and, above all, the medicine of the seven colors, which so sharpens the intellects; as to enable him who swallows enough of it, to acquire every sort of knowledge without the 170 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. slightest trouble. Furthermore, you will be careful to give my people none of this" CHAPTER LXVI. THE CAMPAIGN. In common with all other African po- tentates, Sahela Selassie never engages in war, induced either by public principles, by national glory, or, least of all, by love of his people. While the fear of rebellion and disturbance at home deters him from Zooai in Gurague, distant from Angollala one hundred and fifty miles ; and this cir- cumstance fully explained the before in- comprehensible indifference displayed by the negoos to the suggested preparations to facilitate the advance of his troops. Keeping the secret of his real intentions fast locked in his own despotic breast, it is the invariable practice of his majesty to i publish a manifesto of the approaching ! campaign, calculated to mislead his ene- mies ; and he not unfrequently carries the I deception so far, as to make three or four | marches in a direction quite opposite to that in which he had inwardly resolved to attempting on a grand scale to resume the | strike the blow> None have the sliffhtest lost possessions of his ancesters, to wield idea in vvhat quart er the thunderbolt is to the sceptre as they did, three hundred miles south of his present limits, and to reunite the scattered remnants of Chris- tian population who once acknowledged their supremacy — revenge, the almost in- variable success attending his arms, and the insatiable love of plunder inherent in the breast of every savage, impel him thrice a year to gather his undisciplined militia, in order to undertake sudden and sweeping inroads, either for the purpose of chastising insurrection among the sub- jugated usurpers of portions of the ancient empire of Ethiopia, or of asserting his un- stable authority over some neighboring tribe that may heretofore have succeeded in maintaining its independence. The wilds of Abyssinia sua not to be ex- plored by the solitary traveller, and the opportunity now offered, was therefore gladly embraced of acquiring important in fall, and as the fatal season draws nigh when the state revenues are to be levied, anxiously must throb the conscious bosom of the vassal who has fallen under the royal displeasure. Beyond the removal of muskets and matchlocks from their pegs, to be oiled and exposed to the sun before the porch of the I great audience hall, few signs of prepara- ! tion were observable for the approaching foray. Angollala was indeed somewhat (more populous than usual, and beggars I more numerous and importunate. Greasy iGalla chieftains, too, were in attendance ! with propitiatory offerings and outstanding i arrears of tribute, and the interior of the palace presented a scene of increased bus- tle and confusion. His majesty was to be seen absorbed in the inspection of venera- ble pots, pans, and pipkins, which would «ave been esteemed invaluable contribu- formation relative to the mode of Amhara j tion&+o ^ Britigh museum Tail silk warfare, while visiting regions hitherto tmse] , aid satin were in equal requisition unknown. Superstition, policy, and fear, toward the a acorat ion of the imperial per- alike influenced the wily monarch in his ; son?and the fat Uagter of the ^ as £ gt _ expressed desire to be accompanied by his | ed by the * lite of &p household warr iors, British guests. The presence o : the I sat co bbling old leathei w ith laudable assi- stranger being considered to shed a bless- 1 duity for the edification oS a whole host of ing over the army, is invariably enforced eunuchs. But in the arsenal there was no by royal mandate, which extends indis- criminately to all residing within the kingdom ; and while his majesty, distrust- ing the sojourn in his undefended capital, of so large a body of foreigners, sought the augmentation of his consequence in the eyes both of enemies and subjects, the cause of humanity promised to be pro- moted by the check which the presence of the European invariably enforces upon the excited savage, during the revolting and sanguinary scenes of exulting victory. From the fact of the army having pro- vided rations for no more than twenty days, it was cle.arly impossible that ope- rations should be directed against Lake busy note of preparation such as is wont to precede European warfare ; no crowd- ing of light ordnance and heavy batteries : no commissariat, wagon train, or sick car- riage, and no interminable files of camels loading for the approaching march. " The steed, The mustering squadron, and the clattering car," had no place on the parade : the compli- cated and expensive equipment, and the munitions of the siege, were alike wanting ; and although a few detachments were bi- vouacked on the adjacent meadow, and the black pall of a governor was here and there to be seen, it was still difficult even to con- THE MARCH— THE GATHERING. 171 jecture whence the army of the despot was to spring. Abject slaves to superstition, the Amhara never fail to consult the omens before set- ting out on a military expedition. Priests and monks are referred to by the monarch, and the accidental fall of the targe from a saddle bow, the alighting of a hooded crow in the path of a warrior, or the appearance of a white falcon with the tail toward him, are believed to augur unfavorably to suc- cess ; while the flight of a pair of ravens in any direction, or the descent of a falcon with her head toward the army, are on the other hand esteemed certain prognostica- tions of victory. For a full week prior to the opening of the projected campaign, the nocturnal howling of dogs had boded its inauspicious termination. One cur bayed at the moon as she rose ; a second and a third took up the vile note, and a doleful concert of hundreds gave birth in the mind of the Christian soldier to presage of com- ing evil. Queen Besabesh was to await the issue of the foray at Angollala, and the command of the town meanwhile devolved upon the eunuch Wolda Manam, with a garrison sufficient to deter visits on the part of the Galla, who have more than once attempted to burn the palace during such incursions into their territories. On the morning of the day appointed, a flourish of trumpets from the royal band proclaimed the exit of the negoos from the palace, and shortly af- ter sunrise, the imperial crimson velvet umbrellas issued through the gateway at the head of a numerous procession. Cross- ing the green meadow, his majesty, re- splendent in cloth of gold, took the road to the south by the wicket in the Galla wall, on which a strong advance picquet had al- ready taken post. Every house in Angol- lala swelled the passing' cavalcade ; and each valley and hamlet in the environs marshalling its quota of mounted warriors, the nucleus of the incipient army, before advancing many miles, had become thick and dense. Abogaz Maretch with the Abid- chu legion, streamed from the stockaded hill of Wona-badera, and a band of veterans occupying the summit of an adjacpnt rock meanwhile chanted the prowess of the royal warrior, who halted a few seconds in acknowledgment of the flattering eulogium. Little or no arrangement is attempted during the first march, which invariably terminates at or near Yeolo, in order to af- ford time to stragglers to rejoin, or to admit of the return of those who may from any circumstance prove incapable of toil, or un- prepared for the campaign. Immediately 12* in advance of the army, screened beneath a canopy of scarlet broadcloth, were borne on an ambling mule the Holy Scriptures and the ark of the cathedral of St. Michael, the miraculous virtues of which sacred emblem, throwing into shade those of the Palladium of Troy, are believed to insure victory to the Christian host. Supported by the crimson debaboch, the king rode next upon a richly-caparisoned mule, a small space around the royal person being kept clear by the corps of shield-bearers, who were flanked on the right by fusileers and matchlockmen of the body-guard, and on the left by the band of kettle-drums on don- keys, with trumpets and wind instruments. Numerous governors, judges, monks, priests and singers followed, and behind them rode a curious accompaniment to a martial ex- pedition. Forty dames and damsels, pro- fessing the culinary art, with elaborately crisped bee-hive wigs, greased faces be- daubed with ocrhe, and arched blue eye- brows, were muffled in crimson-striped robes of cotton — a demure assemblage, rigorously guarded on all sides by austere eunuchs armed with long white wands. Beyond, far as the eye could penetrate the canopy of dust which hung over the hori- zon, every hill and valley swarmed with masses of equestrians and pedestrians, warriors, henchmen, and camp-followers, sumpter horses, asses, and mules, laden with tents, horns of old mead, and bags of provisions — throngs of women carrying pitchers of beer and hydromel at their backs, and lads with gliitering sheaves of spears upon their shoulders, leading gayly- caparisoned war-stseds — all mixed and crowded together in the most picturesque disorder and confusion. After cros?mg the Chacha, the country is no lons er sa, fe f° r a single traveller; and owing to the determined hostility of the various wild Galla tribes by wthich it is inhabited, small Amhara detachments vould find difficulty in passing — the inhu- man practice of mutilation being resorted to on all possible opportunities. The road lay through an amphitheatre of low broken hills, rising amid rich meadows and fields, and clothed in parts with juniper or camel thorn, through dark groves of which peep- ed numerous tiny Galla hamlets — the dis- tant landscape being bounded by the great blue mountain ranges of Bulga, Garra Gor- phoo, and Sallala Moogher, collectively forming a crescent, but towering inde- pendently in isolated grandeur. At the termination of the fifteenth mile, the ladies and their eunuchs, having hov- ered about for some time in uncertainty, 172 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. finally settled down, like a flight of flamin- goes, in a pretty secluded valley, through which winds the deep muddy Baroga. Their halt, and the selection made of a spot for the royal kitchen, proclaimed the en- camping ground under a naturally scarped table hill styled Gimbee Bayello, which im- parts its name to the spot. A fierce scramble for places ensued, and the several detach- ments bivouacking sub divo around the dingy palls of their respective leaders, which arose on the next minute, soon spread far and wide over every dell and meadow. The centre of the straggling camp, which could not have measured less than five miles in diameter, was occupied by the royal suite of tents, consisting of a gay parti-colored marquee of Turkish manu- facture, surrounded by twelve ample awn- ings of black serge, over which floated five crimson pennons, surmounted respectively by silver globes. Until these had been erected, and duly inclosed by an outer screen of cotton cloths, the negoos, accord- ing to his wont, ascending an adjacent em- inence, with all the principal chieftains, and an escort of several hundred picked warriors, remained seated on a cushioned alga; and under the crimson canopy of the state umbrellas, watched the progress making toward his accommodation. Horses abound in the kingdom of Shoa, as well as throughout the adjacent cham- pagne country of the Galla ; but save du- ring the foray, they are rarely mounted by the indolent Amhara, the sure-footed mule being better adapted to his taste, and to the rugged hills that compose the greater portion of the rugged frontier. The note of war, however, had so Materially increas- ed the value of the steed, foat even the few horses required had been obtained with difficulty. Every old, unsound, said vicious Rozinante in the realm was spaciously presented, and in turn rejected, wherv Abo- gaz Maretch at length advertised his su.id. Two hundred pieces of salt were the price fixed upon the first purchase ; and as this small change was not procurable within thirty miles, and moreover would have formed the load of two jackasses, ten Aus- trian convention dollars were forwarded in lieu thereof, each valued at ten amoles, and exhibiting all the requisite jewels in the star and coronet of Maria Theresa. " I have kept your silver," was the chief's re- ply, " because you have sent it ; but in fu- ture when I sell you a horse, I shall expect you to pay me in salt." In a country where even the hire of a porter is dependent upon the arbitrary ca- price of the despotic sovereign, and where the inferiors of the court, entertaining one and all the most thorough contempt for truth, are lavish of promises without the smallest intention of performing them, no little difficulty had also been experienced in obtaining transport at so busy a season. The preparations of the British party were therefore of an extremely limited nature, no member carrying aught but the scanti- est bedding, while the general commissa- riat was restricted to a small bag of flour with the jerked flesh of two oxen that had been provided on the occasion from the royal herds. But orders for the supply of porters, who were not to be hired, had only been issued at the very last moment, when the purveyor-general, with his customary liberality, reducing the kingly grant by one half, those finally furnished — three in num- ber — proved barely sufficient for the car- riage of rocket staves, medical stores, and surgical instruments required for the state service ; the flimsy cotton awnings and scanty baggage of both officers and escort being reluctantly transported by a few hired domestics, or' lashed with sharp leathern thongs upon the galled backs of feeble old pack-horses, purchased on emergency at the adjacent market of Bool Worki. When contrasted with disciplined forces, the camp equipage of the rabble Amhara was small and portable indeed. A com- missariat is unknown, every soldier and follower transporting his own provisions, w r hich are limited to parched grain or sun- dried flesh ; and as, owing to the rapidity of the march, and the usual absence of op- position, the campaign is rarely protracted beyond a fortnight, the system has been found to answer. Governors and leaders alone occupy tents, while every component member of their respective quotas, in defi- ance of cold and rain, bivouacks upon the bare ground, with his head upon the shield, and no screen betwixt himself and the vault of heaven, save the clothes carried upon his back. Strange was the sight presented as night closed over the first encampment of the cVivalry of Shoa. Rockets were to be fired by \he royal command, to instil terror into the breasts of the Galla hordes ; and the peak which rose near the head-quarters had been selected as the most centrical site for the display. Ascending from below, the hum of the mighty host arose in the still clear atmosphere, and the gleam of the bright embers which ran through the depths of the valley, and danced over the inter- vening heights, until lost in the far distance, presented the appearance of a city of an- cient days, whereof the great arteries being « FIRE RAINERS "—THE CAMP. 173 alone lit up during the nocturnal hours, full scope was allowed to the imagination to populate at pleasure the intervening gloom. The appearance at Angollala of the mus- kets presented to his majesty by the British government had already caused no incon- siderable consternation, it being the gen- erally received belief that the bayonet, hith- erto a stranger in the land, formed a great receptacle for poisonous spells. The roar of each flight of " fire rainers " now pro- duced a panic from end to end of the scat- tered camp. A buzz and a clamor of voices followed each luminous ascent, to burst forth into a loud peal of wonder when the brilliant shower of meteors fell after the explosion. Confusion ensued ; and as hor- ses and mules, bursting from their pickets, scoured away in terror, pursued by hench- man and by warrior, their figures, flitting in dim perspective before glimmering bale- fires, countless as the stars that spangled the firmament above, seemed shades called into existence by some magic agency, and doubtless proved to the gazing monarch, that the political object in contemplation had been well and fully accomplished. Habitual suspicion on the part of the despot inducing him to apprehend deser- tion to the enemy, the arms of the fusileers of the body-guard were piled, according to long-established usage, in one of the royal tents and strongly guarded. The chiefs and nobles then sat down to a repast in the pavilion, where hydromel and beer and raw flesh were in regal profusion. As the horn circulated briskly, and the spirits of the guests mounted in proportion, it was curious to listen to the vaunts of coming prowess that arose from the board. No limit was placed upon the victims who were to be gathered to their fathers, and loyalty and devotion knew no bounds. " You are the adorners," stammered one, as the party broke up, who had been deco- rated by his English friends ; " you gave me scarlet broadcloth, and behold I have reserved the gift for the present occasion. This garment will bring me signal success, for the pagan who espies a crimson cloak over the shoulder of the Amhara, believing him to be a warrior of distinguished valor, takes like an ass to his heels, and is spear- ed without the slightest danger." CHAPTER LXVII. THE ENEMY'S COUNTRY. Rome is said to have subdued the world under the direction of a hen and chickens. but the legions of Shoa and Efat are arous- ed to victory by the shrill crowing of a cock, which is invariably carried with the army, in one of the wicker baskets, form- ing the pedestal of the banqueting table. One hundred and fifty-six choristers, termed asmaroch, are entertained at the expense of the crown, upon extensive grants of land, to chant psalms and hymns each livelong night of the entire year. Twelve are brought on duty every month, and their vigils, which are invariably kept standing, are observed with more than usual strict- ness during the continuance of a military expedition. Throu ghout the hours of dark- ness the loud chorus arose from the pavil- ion without a moment's intermission, the vocal labors around the holy ark ceasing only with the approach of dawn, as an- nounced by the merry notes of chanticleer. Many detachments being still in the rear, a halt was directed with a view to admit of their joining the head quarters, and the king, escorted by two thousand cavalry, made an excursion to a knoll at some dis- tance from the encampment, whence on a range stretching to the south-eastward, the hill of Dalofa was conspicuous. Hereon his majesty has recently erected a palace, which he rarely visits except for the pur- pose of controlling by his presence the disaffected and turbulent Galla, whose continual outbreaks render it a far from agreeable place of residence. Gazing for hours over the extensive tract of rich meadow land which lay stretched like a map at his feet, the mind of the contempla- tive monarch, occasionally directed to the administration of justice, appeared to be chiefly engrossed with the coming chapter of events, and to be abstractedly scanning the direction in which to pounce upon the surrounding foe. The favorite dancing girl meanwhile at- tuning her shrill throat to song laudatory of her own vocal powers, and of her happy state of independence, in wild though far from pleasing notes carolled ever and anon as the spirit of the nightingale entered into her soul. " Care have I none, no flock to keep, Nor corn to grind, nor field to reap ; "Pis mine alone through the livelong day To charm the king with my roundelay. " Task have I none, no toil to share, Nor wood to fetch, nor load to bear ; 'Tis mine alone but to dance and sing And drink to the health of my lord the king." " Pity is it," remarked one of the party, " since the damsel has so little to do, that she does not that little better." Si What fault have you to find with her 174 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. performance ?" growled the chief smith from beneath the ample folds of his lion- skin cloak, enveloped in which he had composed himself to rest under the shadow of an adjacent bush ; — " what fault have you to find with the king's asmari ? She sings according to the fashion of her own country, and that is surely sufficient." Early the ensuing morning, the royal drums beat to saddle, and in half an hour the army, which had swelled meanwhile to about fifteen thousand fighting men, was in motion over a country especially favorable to advance. Some military pre- cautions were now observed, large brigades of horse serving as flanking parties, and the heights to the right and left being crowned with patrols, as the state umbrel- las advanced over the level greensward, at the rate of three miles an hour. The king, with a few favorite chiefs, preceded by Ayto Berri, the quarter-master-general, and by the corps of guides escorting the holy ark and book of the law, led the host, which, extending for miles and miles to the rear, came pouring over the hills, and down the valleys, like a swollen river bursting its banks, and overflowing the entire country. The military system of Shoa being en- tirely feudal, each governor of the realm is required to furnish his contingent of militia in proportion to his landed tenure — his peasantry being at all times ready for the foray, and expected to purvey horse, arms, and provisions, without pay- ment from the state. Four hundred fusi- leers, bondsmen of the king, alone receive pay — eight pieces of salt, value one shil- ling and eight-pence, being disbursed an- nually to each, in addition to the food and raiment granted to every royal slave. Little discipline exists in the army thus composed, but considerable tact is evinced in its organization and distribution — small confidence being reposed in that portion which is not drawn from ancient posses- sions. Of three grand divisions, the centre, commanded by his majesty in person, consisted of the luguamioch, under Ayto Melkoo, master of the horse ; the gasaa shakri, or shield-bearers, and the detach- ment of the collector of newly-levied tri- bute. Immediately on the left flank were the fusileers of Ayto Katama, commander- in-chief of the body-guard, behind whom came the ivotzbietoch, or females of the royal kitchen; — then the legion of Ayto Guebroo, governor of Mentshar, and, last- ly, the detachments of Shoa-Meda, of Morat, and Morab'ietie. The van, consisting of skirmishers, is invariably led by the great governor of the subjugated Galla, under the title of worari. With Abogaz Maretch, who now filled this important post, were the tried gover- nors of Bulga, Kembibit, Gola, and Ootu- ba, whose respective detachments are Christians, and who are all drawn from the neighborhood, where intercourse with the Galla is most frequent. The third di- vision, or rear-guard, is commanded by the general styled wobo, who is arbitrarily chosen from the seats of seven govern- ments in the north, viz : Giddem, Geshe, Antzochia, Mans. Kaa, Gabriel, and Efrata — the same individual being never selected on two consecutive expeditions. By the continual exercise of his staf£ the master of the horse, assisted by the shield-bearers, contrived to preserve the proper distance between the van of the army and the royal person, but confusion reigned elsewhere. Warriors . were hud- dled together without order or arrange- ment, and every trooper selecting his own position in the detachment to which he belonged, diverted himself by devising the death of the numerous hares that scam- pered through the army, and, strange to say, often threaded the maze of hoofs in safety. During the early part of the march, herds of cattle grazing quietly in the pas- tures around various hamlets, proclaimed a subjugated tribe ; and clans of tributary Galla, each led by its respective chief, in some fantastic costume formerly received at the royal hands, met his majesty at in- tervals, in order to present tribute either in horses or kine — the whole greasy band dismounting at a respectful distance on the flank, hurrying before the despot's path, and with bosoms bared, prostrating themselves simultaneously upon the earth. Little respect, however, was paid to stand- ing crops — field after field of ripening corn being trampled level with the ground, in spite of the remonstrance of the disconso- late husbandmen, who. with heavy stones upon their heads, threw themselves at the feet of the king with loud and reiterated appeals. The course was generally southwest, and conjecture was on the rack as to the scene of active operations, and the ultimate destination of the army. But the secret still remaining with its royal leader, any new speculation on the subject did but elicit the old remark, " The belly of the master is not known." Choristers con- tinued to beguile the tedious march with their rambling stanzas, and to pour out THE ENEMY'S COUNTRY RAVAGED. 175 shrill strains of melody like the notes of the wild bird. The rough-riders galloped before the van of the host, to exhibit the paces of steeds received in tribute ; and his majesty, alighting ever and anon from his mule, reposed for a few minutes upon the cushioned alga which was carried in his train. Nothing could be more tame and mo- notonous than the country passed over. Wide grassy undulations, interspersed with extensive cultivation, rose unrelieved by a single tree or other redeeming fea- ture, save the many European flowers that wantoned beneath the joyous sunshine on the far-stretching prairie. The Karinza, the Fincha, the Chatti, and the Rufa rivers, all tributary to the Nile, were crossed in succession. Deep, narrow, muddy channels intersecting verdant mea- dows, these presented the general charac- ter of all Galla streams, cutting silently through the rich dark soil, and leaving swampy quagmires on the waving downs. At long intervals, the negoos, dismount- ing to change mules, proceeded some dis- tance on foot — an example followed by all. On the first of these occasions, his ma- jesty went through the comedy of thrusting his feet into slippers, selected from a bag carried by a slave, and containing nume- rous pairs manufactured of various colored morocco. Many were tried in succession, but the royal heels being invariably chafed and blistered, the experiment was finally abandoned in despair ; and sacrificing dig- nity to comfort, the despot, like his liege subjects, advanced unshod. For several hours not a horned head had been visible around the deserted hamlets ; and late in the afternoon, when the van of the flagging army arrived in the extensive plain of Abai -Deggar, completely environ- ed by hills, the order was given to encamp, destroy, and plunder. Instantly ensued a rush from all quarters at full gallop. Flourishing fields of wheat, barley, and beans, the produce of the toil of a rebel- lious tribe, were ravaged and overrun by the locust hordes ; and in the course of half an hour, the soil being stripped of every acre of cultivation, there commenced a general scramble for the rafters and ribs of houses, whereof the skeletons were presently consigned to the flames. The women of the royal kitchen had, as before, been the first to select a centrical and advantageous spot on which to pursue the important avocations of their calling ; but some arbitrary change having been direct- ed by his majesty, who occupied his usua! elevated position, the camp was thrown into confusion. Quarrels and scuffles might now be witnessed in every quarter. Those who had taken possession of a luxuriant pasture or the vicinage of water, stoutly defended the treasure against invading comrades ; and recourse being had to weapons, sword-cuts and broken heads were quite in fashion. Although now in an enemy's country, neither picket, vidette, nor sentry, was mounted ; and not the slightest precaution against nocturnal sur- prise was adopted, toward the security of the camp. But no advantage was taken of the Am- hara neglect; and another and similar forced march over a country equally de- void of interest with the tract already crossed, led to the long, narrow valley of Karabarek, at the foot of the Garra Gor- phoo mountains. The bright spear-blade glittered through the cloud of stifling dust that marked the course of myriads over ploughed land. Green fields and smiling meadows, quickly lost their bloom under the tramp of the steed : for no cultivation was now spared, and ruin and desolation were the order of the day. Straggling parties of the Sertie Galla had been seen crowning the heights that skirt the line of march, and near the peaked hill of Wyfun they were assembled in numbers ; but none ventured within half a mile of the host, twenty thousand in number, all thirst- ing alike for the blood of their enemies. Far and wide the country was laid waste, and every vestige of human habitation de- stroyed under the torch, the flames racing among the riper barley with the speed of a galloping horse ; but the wretched inhab- itants, aware of the approach of the spoil- er, had abandoned their dwellings before the fell storm burst over them ; and one aged man only had yet fallen into the mer- ciless clutches of the invaders. This prize had stained the hand of a fol- lower of Ayto Gadel, governor of Chercha, a functionary far from being notorious for courageous bearing. On the occasion of Medoko's last advance, his was the man- sion first beleagured by the insurgents, but he fled in dismay, Jcaving his fair partner to defend the premises. Joining, after the first day's march, he had put the most di- verting - questions relative to the English, with whose appearance he was greatly perplexed. " Are these people pagans ?" inquired the hero, with owlish features, but toe strongly indicative of his vacant mind. « No." " Are thev Islams ?" "No." 176 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. " Then what are they ?" " Christians." " Christians ! Impossible. They observe no fast, and wear no mateb as a badge of their religion.* Is there any grass in their country ?" " Why not ?" "How did I know ? Have they cattle ?" " Abundance." " And sheep and goats ?" " Certainly." " And their negoos, does he carry deba- boch,f and make great zumaclias,\ with warriors like these ?" turning his oyster eyes, lighted with something like martial fire, toward the countless rabble in the rear. But the party thus interrogated could keep his temper no longer ; and as the lit- tle hunch-backed father confessor rode iauntily up with a dirty page perched on the crupper of his mule, to volunteer a lesson in the noble art of equitation, he galloped off, exclaiming with a sneer : " Like these, forsooth ! One of her Bri- tannic majesty's regiments would in a sin- gle hour sweep from off the face of the earth, the whole undisciplined mob that swells the impotent train of the boasted descendant of King Solomon." CHAPTER LXVII. THE FORAY. Thus far the greatest irregularity and confusion had prevailed among the Am- hara, alike during the march and the en- campment. A council of war was daily convened, when each leader made his re- port and received verbal instructions for his guidance ; but no order of any sort was promulgated until the moment before it was to be carried into effect, and all de- pended rather upon the whim and caprice of the monarch than upon the exigencies of the service. The first intimation of intended march v/as conveyed by the roy- al drums sounding suddenly to saddle a quarter of an hour before advance, which, as the state pavilion went down, was an- nounced by a flourish of horns. But notwithstanding that the strictest silence had been observed on the subject by the negoos, as well as by all who might have been unavoidably admitted to confi- dence, strong surmises were entertained * Mateb, i. e. Mark or token. The blue silk cord worn around the neck by the Christian of Shoa. t i. e. Umbrellas of state. % Military expeditions. that a foray from Karabarek was to be the order of the following day ; and about two hours after midnight the sudden and un- usual cessation of the psalm-singing, fol- lowed by the heavy tramp past the tents of Ayto Shishigo's detachment of Shoa-Meda horse, confirming the opinion, the hum of the surrounding body, like that of a dis- turbed hive of bees, continued until dawn. No sooner was it light, than his majesty rode silently forth from his inclqsure with- out beat of the nugareet, and thousands instantly flocked toward the royal person. The state umbrellas, furled, were in- cased in white bags, and the usual cum- brous Abyssinian robe, which effectually impedes all rapid movement, was on this occasion cast aside. Short wide trowsers of various hues hung loosely to the knee. A thick white cloth girded up the loins. The skins of wild beasts, the lion, the pan- ther, and the ocelot, alone hung over the brawny shoulder of the warrior ; and, with exception of about two hundred musque- teers with bayonets fixed, every individual was equipped with spear, sword, and buck- ler, his mounted henchman leading behind him a spare charger. At first starting the crush and confusion was truly terrific. Horses and mules rearing, kicking, and plunging, with lan- ces bristling, and shields thumping in every direction, threatened instant destruction to each component member of the dense mass, which, crowded and locked fast together,, streamed at a rapid trot after the king with- out the slightest order or regularity, save such as was preserved by the exertions of the shield-bearers, who rode immediately behind. The occasional passage of plough- ed land, producing a suffocating cloud of dust, served still more to increase the con- fusion, which had reached its climax when a rivulet intersected the line of march. Steep perpendicular banks and treacherous channels opposing the extended front of the legion, and checking advance, a sim- ultaneous exertion was made to gain the only practicable fords, which were in an instant filled to choking. The fiercest struggle for extrication ensued. Numbers floundering in the soft mud, or borne out of their saddles by the pressure of the crowd, were trampled under foot, while those who bestrode the stoutest steeds, clearing the way before them by sheer strength, forced their weaker neighbors to incline to the right and to the left like frail reeda before the rush of the mountain deer. The morning was bitterly cold. The hoar frost lay thick and white upon the meadows ; and as the rabble host trampled THE GALLA PLAINS— THE ATTACK. 177 over the crisp grass toward the high range of Garra Gorphoo, which at the distance of a few miles rose to the height of twelve or fifteen hundred feet, the breath arose heavy from the nostril of man and beast, like a cloud of smoke, mixing with the dark columns of dust which followed the clat- tering hoofs of neighing war-rsteeds. Du- ring the first hour's advance up the valley, reports were continually being brought in, and messenger after messenger galloping off in every direction ; and as the foot of the mountain was gained, Ayto Berkie, with a large detachment of the men of Bulga, leaving the main body, moved upon the left, while the king struck up the steep face of the range in the centre of an ex- tended line of men, who scoured every hill and hollow, and beat every nook and corner at a rapid pace. Stretching thirty miles in length by about twelve or fifteen in breadth, the mountains of Garra Gorphoo, covered throughout with one sheet of rich cultiva- tion, form the water-shed between the Nile and the Hawash. The various rivulets that on either side wind down toward the parent streams, intersect it into hundreds of verdant valleys, on the swelling slopes of which the white-roofed houses of se- cluded Galla hamlets peep forth among dark green groves of juniper and acacia, that add beauty to the fair prospect. Re- freshed by the cool breeze, these tropical highlands are inhabited by the Serite tribe, who, long in a state of open rebellion, had rendered themselves doubly obnoxious to the despot's vengeance by attacking a de- tachment of Amhara the preceding year, of whom, while entangled in a morass near the foot of the range, eight hundred men were slain. The day of retribution had at length arrived. The object of the expedi- tion, hitherto so carefully concealed, was now fully developed ; and the military dis- positions for sweeping destruction appeared to be right skilfully made. Hurrying onward with ominous rapidity, destroying all who fell in their path, and with their weapons goading forward the herds of sleek cattle which teemed in every valley, the wild host now poured like an overwhelming torrent down the flowery slopes of inumbrated hollows — now breast- ed the steep sunny acclivity like flames driver! before the wind — and now wound in Indian file along the edges of cliffs af- fording scanty footing for a wild-cat, where the loose soil, crumbling at every step, left the naked precipitous rock as the only available passage. Far and wide the crops were laid prostrate as if beaten down un- der the violence of the hurricane ; and be- fore ten o'clock the highest pinnacle of the green range having been crowned, a wide prospect burst upon the gaze. A succession of richly cultivated plains dotted over with clusters of conical white houses, in parts surrounded by clumps of towering junipers, stretched away from the foot, the very picture of peace and plenty. Embosomed between the isolated peaks of Yerrur, Sequala, and the far-famed Entot- to, lay the wide plain of Germama, thickly peopled by the Ekka and Finfinni Galla, upon whose doomed heads the thunderbolt was next to fall ; and full in its centre two placid silver lakes, like great mirrors, re- flected back the rays of the morning sun across sheets of luxuriant cultivation, ex- tending for miles, nearly ready for the sickle. Far beyond, the long wooded line of the Hawash, rolling its troubled waters toward the plain of the Ada'iel, loomed in- distinctly through the haze ; and in the extreme distance, the lofty blue range of the Aroosi and Ittoo Galla, skirting the mysterious regions of Gurague, bounded the almost interminable prospect. The morning mist, loaded with dust raised by the tramp of the Amhara steeds over acres of ploughed land, hung heavy on the heather-grown slopes, and partially screening the approach of the locust army,, conspired to enhance its success. Twenty thousand brawny warriors, in three divis- ions, covering many miles of country, and linked by detachments in every direction, pressed on toward the inviting goal — their hearts burning with the implacable hatred of hostile barbarians, and panting to con- summate their bloody revenge. Taken en- tirely by surprise, their devoted victims lay helplessly before them, indulging in fatal dreams of happiness and security, alas ! too speedily to be dispelled. Hundreds of cattle grazed in tempting herds over the flowery meads. Unconscious of danger, the unarmed husbandman pursued his peaceful occupation in the field ; his wife and children carolled blithely over their ordinary household avocations ; and the ascending sun shone bright on smiling val- leys, which, long before his going down, were left tenanted only by the wolf and the vulture. Preceded by the holy ark of St. Michael, veiled under its scarlet canopy, the king still led the van, closely attended by the father confessor, and by a band of priests, with whom having briefly conferred, he turned toward the expectant army, and pro- nounced the ominous words which were the well-known signal for carrying fire and 178 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. sword through the land — " May the God who is the God of my forefathers, strength- en and absolve !" Rolling on like the waves of the mighty ocean, down poured the Amhara host among the rich glades and rural hamlets, at the heels of the fly- ing inhabitants — trampling under foot the fields of ripening corn, in parts half reaped, and sweeping before them the vast herds of cattle which grazed untended in every direction. When far beyond the range of vision, their destructive progress was still marked by the red flames that burst forth in turn from the thatched roofs of each in- vaded village ; and the havoc committed many miles to the right by the division of Abogaz Maretch, who was advancing par- allel to the main body, and had been re- inforced by the detachment under Ayto Shishigo, became equally manifest in nu- merous columns of white smoke, towering upward to the azure firmament in rapid succession. The embassy followed close in the train of the negoos, who halted for a few minutes on the eastern face of the range ; and the eye of the despot gleamed bright with in- ward satisfaction, while watching through a telescope the progress of the flanking detachments, as they poured impetuously down the steep side of the mountain, and swept across the level plain with the fray of the blast of the sirocco. A rapid detour thence to the westward, in an hour dis- closed the beautifully secluded valley of Finfinni, which, in addition to the artificial advantage of high cultivation, and snug hamlets, boasted a large share of natural beauty. Meadows of the richest green turf, sparkling clear rivulets leaping down in sequestered cascades, with shady groves of the most magnificent juniper lining the slopes, and waving their moss-grown branches above cheerful groups of circular wigwams, surrounded by implements of agriculture, proclaimed a district which had long escaped the hand of wrath. This had been selected as the spot for the royal plunder and spoliation, and the troops, ani- mated by the presence of the monarch, now performed their bloody work with a sharp and unsparing knife — firing village after village until the air was dark with their smoke mingled with the dust raised by the impetuous rush of man and horse. The luckless inhabitants, taken quite by surprise, had barely time to abandon their property, and fly for their lives to the fast- ness of Entotto, which reared its protect- ing form at the distance of a few miles. The spear of the warrior searched every bush for the hunted foe . Women and girls were torn from their hiding to be hurried into hopeless captivity. Old men and young were indiscriminately slain and mutilated among the fields and groves ; flocks and herds were driven off in triumph, and house after house was sacked and consigned to the flames. Each grim Amhara warrior vied with his comrade in the work of retri- butive destruction among, the execrated Galla. Whole groups and families were surrounded and speared within the walled court-yards, which were strewed with the bodies of the slain. Wretches who betook themselves to the open plain were pursued and hunted down like wild beasts ; and children of three and four years of age, who had been placed in the trees with the hope that they might escape observation, were included in the inexorable massacre, and pitilessly shot among the branches. In the course of two hours the division left the desolated valley laden with spoil, and carrying with them numbers of wailing females and mutilated orphan children, together with the barbarous trophies that had been stripped from the mangled bodies of their murdered victims. The hoarse scream of the vulture, as she wheeled in funereal circles over this ap- palling scene of carnage and devastation, mingled with the crackling of falling roofs and rafters from the consuming houses, alone disturbed the grave-like silence of the dreary and devoted spot, so lately re- sounding to the fiendish shouts and war- whoops of the excited warriors, and to the unpitied groans of their helpless captives. And as the exulting barbarians, followed by the curses of the homeless fugitives in Entotto, crossed the last range, gloomy columns of smoke rising thick and dense to the darkened heavens, for miles in every direction, proclaimed that this recently so flourishing and beautiful location had in a few brief hours been utterly ruined, pil- laged, and despoiled, as far as the means of ruthless and savage man could effect its destruction. The royal division crossed the deep vale of Finfinni by a most dangerous and diffi- cult defile, leading over the bed of the principal torrent, which winds through an extensive belt of dark juniper forest, of truly magnificent growth. Lofty pinelike tree's, hoary with the moss of centuries, towered above banks that rose some "hun- dred feet almost perpendicularly, and were clothed throughout with tangled under- growth. A huge fragment of porphyry, nearly choking the straitened descent, af- forded barely sufficient room for the pas- sage of a single horseman, while a sue- THE BOOTY— NOCTURNAL BIVOUAC. 179 cession of slippery rocks and treacherous pools filled up the channel to the opposite baiiA, steep, abrupt, and wooded. Loud shouts drowned the pleasing mur- mur of a splashing waterfall ; and so great was the confusion caused by the crush of men, horses, and mules, mingled with frightened droves of oxen and sheep, all struggling tumultously toward the only outlet, that many accidents occurred. Horses and riders were forced over the precipice — others were trampled under foot by the overwhelming rush from behind, and a handful of resolute men might with ease have kept at bay the whole rabble ar- my of the invader. But the Abyssinian system of warfare consists in surprise, murder, and butchery, not in battle or fair conflict. The king continued to advance rapidly without the smallest check, and being escorted only by a few fusileers of the body-guard, carrying each two rounds of ammunition, was necessarily much ex- posed ; but confident in the terror with which his meteor-like descent would in- spire his unwary foes, no dispositions were made for the security of his person, in the event of resistance or surprise. Emerging from the forest which extend- ed two miles beyond the Finfinni defile, the scattered forces began to rendezvous around the state umbrellas, now unfurled, to which they were directed by the inces- sant beating of kettle-drums. While the work of destruction still continued to rage on all sides, herd after herd of lowing beeves came pouring toward the royal standard, and each new foraging party brought with it fresh groups of captive women and girls, and the barbarous tokens of their prowess. Some of the more brag- gart warriors affecting inability to return their blood-stained blades to the scabbard, pompously carried them in the hand un- sheathed, and even the boyish arms of some of the most effeminate of the royal pages had proved victorious over a defenceless victim. The slaughter had been immense. Every desolated court-yard was crowded with the bodies of the slain — childhood and decrepit age had fared alike ; and the murderers, unconscious of the disgrace attaching to unmanly deeds, unblushingly heralded their shame, and, detailing their deeds of cruelty, basked in the smiles of their savage ' and approving monarch, whose only eye became at times frightful- ly wild with excitement, although his de- meanor throughout the long day of horrors had been cool and self-possessed from the experience acquired during eighty-four similar foravs. After a brief halt, the march was resum- ed through the country of the Ekka Galla, which was clean swept with the besom of destruction ; and the distinguishing green sprig of asparagus in the woolly heads of successful cavaliers, became more and more numerous as the eventful day drew on to its close. The sun at length dis- appeared behind the western mountains, toward which the course of the army was directed ; and night, casting her sable mantle over the dismal scene, stayed the arm of the warrior. During fourteen hours passed in the saddle, above fifty miles of country had been passed over ; and the weary forces finally halted in the Ekka val- ley, without possessing the smallest idea of the position of the rear division, with the tents and baggage, to the leader of which no clue had been afforded as to the royal intentions. Horses and mules were now turned loose among the standing beans, and sev- eral thousand head of cattle, tired to death with the distance they had been driven from their wonted pastures, were, with infinite difficulty, collected in a hollow, girdled on three sides by a deep ravine. It was closed on the fourth by a steep accliv- ity, on the summit of which the king, sur- rounded by his chieftains, took up his position for the night. His majesty, al- though fasting throughout the day, sent his only loaf to be eaten by " his children ;" and looking forth upon the fruits of his masterly foray, seemed, in the contempla- tion of the amassed herds, to be insensi- ble alike to the cold wintry blast, and to the long calls of hunger. A wilder scene can scarcely be im- agined that that presented by the nocturnal bivouac of the locust-like army of the Am- hara, flushed by its recent success. Loud whoops and yells, arising from every quar- ter of the wide valley, mingled with the incessant lowing of kine, the bleating of sheep, the shrill neighing of the war-steed, and the occasional wailing of some captive maid, subjected to the brutality of her un- feeling possessor. Groups of grim war- riors, their hands imbrued in the innocent blood of infancy, and their stern features lighted by the fitful flame, chuckling over the barbarous spoils they had won, vaunted their inhuman exploits, as they feasted greedily on raw and reeking carcasses. Spears and bucklers gleamed brightly around hundreds of bale-fires, composed of rafters stripped from the surrounding houses ; and the whole distant landscape, red from the lurid glare reflected by scores of crackling hamlets, completed a picture 180 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. worthy the pencil of the artist who delights in the delineation of brutal revelry. No sentry paced the environs of the straggling encampment — no watchword challenged the tramp of the man-at-arms. The deep hum of thousands gradually waned and died away, and each composed himself to slumber on the spot where his carousal had been held. A pall, constructed with spears supporting a cotton robe, screened the person of the negoos ; and so long as the biting cold would permit, his British guests slept at broken intervals upon the bare ground, amid the gorged and weary warriors, the saddle of each serving for a pillow — " The earth his bed, his canopy the sky." CHAPTER LXIX. THE ROYAL ACHIEVEMENT. Welcome to all was the first gray light that illumined the eastern sky, and summon- ed the warrior from his uneasy slumbers. So uncomfortably had the night been pass- ed, that it was in truth rest to rise. The despot was among the first to abandon his cold couch ; and a bulletin of success hav- ing been penned by the royal hand, for the information of Queen Besabesh, the main body of the division, convoying the inter- minable droves of cattle, was in motion across the Ekka valley. Escorted by five thousand cavalry, his majesty then pro- ceeded to a knoll at some distance within the scene of yesterday's carnage, upon the summit of which he tarried, while parties went out in search of the body of his grand- nephew, the youthful son of Ayto Besueh- nech, who, with several others of the Christian host, had fallen in the running conflict. It was a cool and lovely morning, and the mountain breeze played freshly down each opening glade. The ascending sun- beam danced over the steep rugged sides and ruined stone edifices of the fastness of Entotto, anciently the proud seat of Ethiopic splendor, and still believed to conceal much of the wealth lost to the empire at the period of Graan's invasion, when Nebla Dengel was driven into Tigre. The great volcanic cone of Sequala, rival- ling the lowland Aiulloo, again towered in the distance, its once fiery crater converted by the revolutions of ages into an exten- sive lagoon, on the banks of which stands the celebrated shrine of Guebra Manfas Kedoos, a saint renowned for the destruc- tion by his prayers of five hundred genies. On the other hand frowned the dark wood- ed slave mart of Roque, in the Yerrur hill, where millions of Christians have been bought and sold ; and on the other rose the mountain Dalacha, sacred to the Wato sorcerers, whose tempting demesnes have escaped pillage and conflagration, in con- sequence of their blessing having been followed by the birth of Sahela Selassie. Far in the distance a low belt of vegetation screened the sleepy Hawash, whose idle waters throughout the long tortuous course encounter no impediment; and over the intervening tract numerous tributaries to the Casam, absorbed eventually in the parched plain of the Adai'el, conveyed the eastern drainage of Garra Gorphoo through the ravaged valley of Germama. Over this wide expanse not a living in- habitant was now to be seen. In every direction the blood-stained ground was strewed with the slaughtered foe, around whose, mutilated corses groups of surfeited vultures flapped their foul wings, and screamed the death-note. The embers of deserted villages smouldered over the scorched and blackened plain. Ripe crops, which the morning before had gladdened the heart of the cultivator — now no more — were level with the ground. Flocks of sheep, untended by the shepherd, strayed over the lone meadow ; and bands of howl- ing dogs wandered up and down in fruit- less quest of their lost masters. A single day had reduced to a waste wilderness the entire rich and flourishing vale of Germa- ma, including the dark forests of Finfinni, which, for years, had slept in peace ; and their late numerous and unsuspecting popu- lation, had in a few hours been swept from off" the face of the earth by the devastating irruption of the barbarian Amhara hordes. The mutilated remains of the fallen chief having, after much search, been recovered from the ashes of a still smoking village,, were shrouded with a white cloth, and borne upon a bier from the scene of deso- lation. Glutted with booty, the despot now left his locusts to pursue their own course up the Ekka valley, where flames and plunder again marked the straggling return toward the mountains of Garra Gorphoo. Each hamlet was ravaged in succession ; and cats, the sole remaining tenants of the deserted huts, were dislodged by the torch of the Wobo. For miles and miles, the road was lined with dusty and wayworn warriors laden with spoil: flocks and herds, donkeys, mules, and horses, honey-combs, poultry, household utensils and farming gear, with APPALLING RETRIBUTION— ROYAL PROWESS. 181 captive women and children, indiscrimi- nately mingled with the men-at-arms. While some of these latter, wounded and mutilated, were lashed upon the backs of their palfreys, others, dismounted, were dragging behind them their lame and ex- hausted steeds ; sheep and goats, unable, through fatigue, to proceed, being cut limb from limb while still alive, and the bleeding trunks left quivering in the path by the wanton butchers. Reentering the mountains, over which the sun, now low in the horizon, had cast the long dark shadows of evening, the camp was sought in vain ; but the rear division, with tents and baggage, was at length descried pouring down the opposite height under a vast canopy of dust to the encamping ground at Boora Roofa. A long march the preceding day had brought it to Sululta near to Moolo Falada, where it met and destroyed those who had fled from the immediate scene of the king's in- road, made numerous female captives, and, with the loss of the sumpter horses laden with horns of hydromel, acquired consider- able booty ; information casually received of the main division having thence led it. back through the mountains to the present halting ground, after all had made up their minds to another cold bivouac in the open lir. During its more recent progress this division had carried fire and sword through 5he country of the Sertie Galla, where it yet remained unplundered ; and, as the day igain closed, the vault of heaven was re- tllumined by volumes of lurid smoke from the surrounding hamlets. Such is the appalling retribution with which Sahela Selassie is wont to visit those rebel tribes who withhold the moderate tribute that has been imposetkppon them. The relinquishment to the crown of three or four hundred of the many thousand head of cattle captured during this and the pre- ceding day, would, with some twenty or thirty horses, have averted this severe chas- tisement, the fearful consequence of taxes refused. The revolt of tribes inhabiting remote portions of his majesty's dominions arises too frequently from the oppression of Galla governors, over whose proceed- ings he can exercise very inadequate con- trol ; but it is caused in a principal degree by the absence of outpost or fortification to hold his wild subjects in check. Could he be prevailed upon to abandon his present weak mode of securing the Galla depend- encies, to strengthen them by those mili- tary arrangements for which the country is so peculiarly adapted, and to place a bet- ter limit upon the exactions of frontier gov- ernors, what bloodshed and misery might not be averted ! The army halted at Boora Roofa to ena- ble straggling detachments to rejoin ; and small parties went out in various direc- tions to complete the work of demolition among the deserted hamlets of the Sertie tribe, some of which, embosomed deep among the mountain glens, had hitherto escaped attention : hives of ungathered honey, heaps of unwinnowed corn, and the half-flayed carcass abandoned within the filthy habitation, bearing ample testimony to the precipitate flight of the hunted in- mates, around many of whose bodies gaunt vultures already held their carnival. Early during the forenoon, horsemen rode in to the royal pavilion with important intelligence that Ayto Hierat, a favorite governor, had, at the distance of a few miles, surprised and surrounded a Galla in a tree, among the branches of which the caitifFawaited the arrival of the king. Im- patient to wreathe his brow with new lau- rels, the monarch lost not a moment in sallying forth to destroy the unfortunate wretch, taking a most formidable array of single and double-barrelled guns and rifles of every calibre, together with an escort of five thousand cavalry. Receiving a long shot through the thigh at the royal hands, while imperfectly en- sconced among the foliage, the victim, abandoning all hope of escape, wisely cast away his weapons, and cried loudly for quarter ; being admitted to which, he kissed the feet of his majesty, and thus escaped mutilation on the spot. To take the life of a Galla, and to secure a prisoner of ei- ther sex, are, in Amhara warfare, account- ed one and the same thing ; and although, where adult males are concerned, the more merciful alternative is rarely adopted, the despot, whose dreams often conjure up his past deeds of blood in judgment against him, has become more lenient than of yore. Yet the valuable presents which the de- struction of a helpless foe entitles him from every governor in the realm, the in- creased respect acquired in the eyes of his subjects and warriors, and the additional lustre shed over his already chivalrous re- putation by each new murder, however foul, induce hirn still to seek occasions such as this to imbrue his hands in gore. Messenger after messenger now gal- loped into camp at full speed, with the joyful tidings of success; each new an- nouncement eliciting yet louder and louder songs and shouts from the wotzbeitoch, eu- nuchs, and parasites at the royal quarters. In another hour the cavalcade returned in 182 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. triumph, the wounded captive riding on a mule behind the exulting monarch, who, by virtue of his bold exploit, wore in the hair a large green branch of wild aspara- gus, while the greasy garment of his bleed- ing prisoner graced the proud neck of his war-steed. Repeated vollies of musketry, with the blasts of horns, and the din of kettle drums, proclaimed the signal prowess of his Christian majesty. Priests and wo- men flocked to receive him with a clamor of acclamation, and he alighted amid the most stunning uproar. Through the master of the horse a mes- sage was presently received, to the effect that the attendance of every member of the embassy had been looked for ; the Galla having been entrapped purposely that his destruction might be accomplished by the hand of the British visitors, in view to the exaltation of the national name. "Why tarried ye in the tent ? I desired that my children might kill the heathen in the tree ; but. when they came not, I myself perform- ed the deed." The puissant monarch was informed in reply, " that, independently of its being the Sabbath, and none of the party possessing the smallest inclination to destroy a de- fenceless human being under any circum- stances, no public body was authorized by the law of nations to draw a sword offen- sively in any country not in open hostility with its own. That an elephant was es- teemed equivalent to forty armed Galla, and a wild buffalo to five ; and of these much-dreaded animals, his guests were ready to destroy any number that he might think proper to- permit." Great was the triumph and the quaffing of mead, and the feasting on raw beef, du- ring the residue of the day and the early hours of the night, for lo ! the king of kings in single combat had prevailed over his Galla foe. Ess^jtial assistance had been afforded by the embassy to the sick and wounded ; among the latter, to a brother of the queen ; yet many reproaches were now abroad, in that its members had eaten the royal bread, and destroyed none of the enemies of the state. The example of other foreigners, who were represented to have shot Galla out of trees, was contrast- ed somewhat unfavorably to British cour- age ; and a private of the artillery escort was roundly taxed with cowardice for per- mitting the escape of an unarmed peasant, who lay concealed in a bush by the way- side, and could have offered no resistance. The defenceless wretch was subsequently pursued by thirty Ambara horsemen, but escaped unscathed on foot into the forest, under a shower of their Christian lances. In all countries where a martial spirit is fostered by continual forays, and where the exertions of a single day are sufficient to maintain the successful marauder for six months to come, the daily unceasing labor of the cultivator is forsaken for the shield and spear. But in Abyssinia, where the principal booty is monopolized by the mon- arch, the case is widely different, since, although military expeditions are of fre- quent occurrence, the sword of the plun- derer is as often turned again into the ploughshare — while the despoiled hus- bandman, again tilling his devastated lands, and occupying the brief intervals of peace and repose in agricultural and pastoral pursuits, the fair provinces of the Galla, flowing with milk and honey, are speedily reclothed in one sheet of luxuriant culti- vation. The Abyssinians have been represented as a bold, martial, and chivalrous race ; but in Shoa, the " soldiers of the Cross " are impelled by none of that knightly valor which warmed the breast of the crusader of old. The white feather, that emblem of cowardice in other lands, forms the boast of their murderous exploits among infants of tender years ; and the system of the noble art of war would seem to consist in the merciless destruction of the enemy by sudden inroad and surprise. Harrying- the invaded country with overwhelming mass- es of undisciplined cavalry, the only oppo- sition to be encountered is an occasional skirmish during the night with an outlying detachment, or by day during the passage of a weak body through morasses or intri- cate defiles. The appearance of a foe in- variably areves the signal for increased disorder, wn. who are so disposed sallying forth to the assault, when those who harbor animosity against a comrade, not unfre- quently avail themselves of the opportu- nity to assassinate him in the mtlie. Cruelties emanating from the hereditary detestation of the heathen, which, with the barbarous spoils earned during the foray, is handed down as an heir-loom from gene- ration to generation, are unfortunately- countenanced by the monarch, who has too often destroyed a defenceless fugitive with his own hand, and personally set the disgraceful example of mutilation ; while the bigotry and superstition of the savage Amhara induces him to regard every pa- gan in the light of a dog, as doth the fan- atic Moslem the Christian. The revolting barbarities practiced in the hour of victory, which from time immemorial have had ex- REVOLTING BARBARITIES— INSIGNIA OF VALOR. 183 istence'in Ethiopia, and unfortunately also over the: greater portion of unhappy Africa to which discovery has yet extended, are perpetuated by the commission of similar enormities on the part of the Galla usurp- ers of the fairest portions of the land, who butcher children and old men without dis- tinction, mutilate all who fall into their hands, and enslave females upon every opportunity. The stimulus afforded by individual in- terest in the slaughter committed during the foray, stands at present in the place of discipline, since without one or the other no army could be brought into the field. Triumph attends the return of the Chris- tian warrior from battle in proportion to the number of lives he bears upon his arm, and for each enemy slain he is entitled to some conspicuous personal badge, which forms his greatest pride. A ring, a gaunt- let, or a bracelet, gained at the expense of acts the most dastardly, raises him accord- ingly in the estimation of relatives and companions in arms, and signal success almost invariably paves the way to royal preferment. Monstrous and appalling crimes are dic- tated by the desire to obtain the insignia of valor, and of these, instances of very recent occurrence are matter of notoriety. An Amhara of rank, unable to obtain among the enemies of the state the much coveted trophy, in cold blood mutilated the unsuspecting husband of his own sister, whom he found at disadvantage ; but not long afterward, to his amazement, the un- happy man, whom he left for dead, pre- sented himself like a shade from another world, and, falling at the footstool of the throne, cried aloud for justice. To the honor of his majesty be it recorded, that the ruffian was publicly executed at An- gollala, and that similar retribution pursued a second fiend in human form, who, under like circumstances, had proceeded to muti- late his henchman. "Master," said the defenceless menial, imploringly, "I have served you faithfully for seven years — how can you treat me thus ?" " Thou wilt serve me better this day than thou hast ever done before," replied the brute, as he completed the black deed — ' ; Wouldst thou have me to return home in disgrace, thou eater of bread ?"* Discipline alone can check the prevail- ing barbarity, by superseding desultory, hand-to-hand combat, and keeping every soldier in such comparative ignorance of * Injra bullal, eater of bread, a common term of abuse for the idle the number that fall to his individual prow- ess, as to preclude the vaunting of exploits. To those who have been eye-witnesses of the foray, it must afford matter for deep regret that feud and contest should hitherto so successfully have debarred access to the interior, and should have checked the advance of Christianity and civilization, which, as in happier lands, must bring with them the means of providing for re- dundant population, and could not fail to ameliorate the horrors attendant upon the existing system of Abyssinian warfare. CHAPTER LXX. LIBERATION OF THE PRISONERS OF WAR. During the more than usually success- ful, though harrowing and bloody campaign of the Amhara host, an opportunity was afforded of laying down, as scientifically as very limited time would permit, an ex- tensive and most interesting tract of coun- try hitherto undescribed — not to be explor- ed by the adventurous but single traveller, and only to be visited under the peculiar advantages afforded to the British embassy by the despotic negoos. It formed a source of extreme disappointment, that this ac- quaintance should not have extended to the lake Zooai, as anticipated from the manifesto originally promulgated at Mach- al-wans ; but Ayto Berri, many years quar- ter-master-general of the royal troops, who, in his quondam capacity of Mohammadan rover, had often visited that famous ex- panse of water, strongly discountenanced the contemplated measure of molesting the inoffensive inhabitants of its five islands — mixed Christians and pagans living in pro- found peace with each other, and with eve- ry surrounding neighbor. To his advice may in some measure be ascribed the al- teration in the king's intentions : but the argument which had more weight with his majesty than the harmless attributes of the population, was based on the dense and difficult character of the extensive forests, swarming with Galla and with wild beasts, through which the army must pass, after crossing the pillaged valley of Germama. The Christian camp at Boora Roofa was crowded with disconsolate groups of hea- then captives, many with infants at their backs, and nearly all in a state of nudity, with long raven tresses streaming wildly over their shoulders. Hopeless slavery was theirs, but influenced by the earnest remonstrance of the embassy, aided by the 184 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. active and reverend missionary, Dr. Krapf, whom philanthropic feelings had enabled to endure the uncongenial atmosphere of ignorance and unbelief — whom the purest and most praiseworthy motives had induced to obey the royal summons to the field, and who, from his long experience, knew when to touch the latent spark of mercy, the king wiped out the foul stain of the pre- ceding day by consenting to liberate the whole. Ere the nugareets sounded the re- turn of the troops, a proclamation went forth commanding the immediate release of every prisoner of war ; and as the dis- satisfied army turned its back upon the valley, long files of widowed dames and fatherless girls were to be seen hurrying in freedom across the hill toward their des- olate hearths, overjoyed at the sudden and unexpected restoration of their lost liberty through the white man's intercession — the ruthless soldiery, disappointed at the loss of their booty, having previously stripped the last covering from all, and sent them forth naked as they came into this world. This signal victory over savage ferocity was followed by a long march to the river Alelta, a tributary to the Nile, and form- ing near the encampment lake Sertie, a full mile in diameter, bounded by low hills of trachyte and porphyry. A web of deep miry ravines, shut in by high crumbling banks, presented a wet and slippery foot- ing, and many were the disasters that be- fell the demure dames of the royal kitchen. Wicker parasols might be seen floating down the current as the luckless proprietor struggled in the black slimy mud among mules and war-steeds, or emerged in truly pitiable condition to be censured by their austere guardians, who, horror-stricken, had witnessed from above the absence of all order and decorum. Each moment rendered the treacherous passage more and more impracticable, and it was not difficult to understand how, in the month of June the preceding year, the spot should have proved the grave of eight hundred of the Amhara cavalry. At that season the country, flooded for many miles around, becomes one great quagmire which is not to be crossed without extreme cau- tion. Before the king had passed with the main body of the victorious troops escort- ing immense plunder, the Sertie Galla, taking advantage of superior knowledge of the locality, completely cut off the van of the army, consisting of the Mentshar and Bulga detachments. They had be- come entangled in the mazy labyrinth, and were massacred to a man ere assistance could be rendered by the matchlockmen of the body-guard, who did not reach the ground until the enemy were in full re- treat. His majesty's object in now revisiting the scene of this catastrophe was suffi- ciently obvious. No sooner had the impe- rial cavalcade halted among the bleached skeletons of the fallen warriors, than cham- pions, whose steeds were distinguished by greasy garments stripped from the bodies of Galla victims, caricoled proudly in front of the state umbrellas, brandishing their bright weapons aloft, exhibiting the spoils that had been won during the recent bloody foray ; and after a detail of their individual exploits, shouting defiance to the humbled Sertie. The wild triumphal exhibition concluding after half an hour, a band of music advanced, and continued to play un- til the pavilion had been prepared for the royal reception. Early the ensuing morning, the king sent confidentially to inquire if none of his guests could divine whether the day were propitious to the advance of the army — a point upon which he felt somewhat dubi- ous. The confession of lamentable want of skill in augury was succeeded by a march of sixteen miles to Ellulee Jidda, over a monotonous landscape of swelling downs and shallow valleys, intersected by streamlets that had scooped deep channels in the loose black soil. The stately relict of a deceased Galla chieftain rode through the ranks with her tribute in horses and kine, and experienced a most gallant re- ception at the hands of the monarch. She might have sat for the portrait of La Belle Sauvage, but the grease wherein the per- son of the handsome dame was embedded tended, unfortunately, to destroy the ro- mance inseparable from her Amazonian appearance and feudal condition. 'Various triumphant detachments also met the royal cortege en route, the chiefs and victorious warriors careering in suc- cession before the van of the army, with barbarous tokens of blood dangling from the right arm, and green sprigs of aspara- gus waving above their dishevelled and newly greased locks. Prisoners were seat- ed behind the cruppers of some of the more merciful, and the flank of each gray steed was dyed with clotted human gore. A short rambling recitative, expressive of loyalty and devotion in the field, was fol- lowed by savage yells and whoops twice or thrice reechoed by their marshalled band of followers, when they vaulted light- ly from the saddle, prostrated themselves on the ground, and galloped off, each in his turn, to make way for some new squad- AMHARA WAR CHORUS— THE TRIUMPH. 185 Ton, whose war-chorus came pealing over the hills. " Tlie combat's past, the fight is won, Then triumph o'er the prostrate foe ; The heathen blood has freely run, Raise high the chant, Woko, Woko. " Let hill and dale return the note, Woko, Woko, ayah Woko ; Loud ring from everv Christian throat The shout of death, Woko, Woko." While the army was encamping, the le- gion of Ayto Shishigo, rejoining the royal division with three thousand head of oxen, in like manner reported success and detail- ed exploits to the king, who, as usual, oc- cupied the summit of an adjacent eminence. Tribute was still in a course of dilig-ent collection, and greasy Galla chieftains, with hair plaited after the model of the lotus flower, were flocking with their dues from all directions. One refractory village only of the Jidda tribe, withholding its impost of a single horse, paid the penalty of its folly. The inhabitants fled, but their deserted houses were sacked and consigned to the flames, the stakes and palisades by which, in common with every hamlet in this direc- tion, it was strongly fortified, affording fuel for the royal kitchen, and subsequently a scramble to one half of the army. CHAPTER LXXI. THE TRIUMPH. A long march across the Sana Robi, next brought the troops to Bel at in the neighborhood of Yeolo. His majesty, seat- ed upon his cushioned alga, halted fre- quently in the wide undulating meadows, to witness warlike rehearsals on a still more splendid scale ; on the termination of which, many of the quotas having received their dismissal, dispersed to their respec- tive districts, although not until after one Amhara soldier had been treacherously murdered by a rival comrade, and another had been desperately wounded in a trifling dispute which resulted in an appeal to arms. Before sunrise the ensuing morning the victorious troops, reduced by one-third, marched upon Angollala, driving exulting- ly before them upward of thirty thousand head of prize cattle, the entire of which were, par excellence, the property of the lung. Arrived within sight of the capital, strains of martial music burst from the cen- tre division, when every throat throughout the vast army joined in one deafening cho- rus. Half a mile to the south of the Galla wall a tent had been erected, to which his 13 majesty retiring for a few minutes, arrayed his person preparatory to the triumphal en- try ; and the various leaders at the head of their respective squadrons meanwhile took up the position allotted in the coming pageant. As the state umbrellas, preceded by the ark of St. Michael, passed through the An- kober gate of the defences, the assembled chiefs and warriors who had most distin- guished themselves during the successful foray, arrayed in the glittering badges of former achievements in arms, careered a dense body in advance. One hundred gore- stained steeds, resplendent with trappings and brass ornaments, and fancifully capar- isoned in gay cloths and chintz housings, bounded and pranced gallantly under this chosen band of proud cavaliers, who with lances couched, and party-colored robes flaunting in the wind, slowly curvetted over the verdant carpet of turf, in a dazzling and mazy labyrinth of reticulated circles. Their glossy black hair streaming with feathers and green branches in token of recent tri- umph, and their variously emblazoned shields, crowded with silver ornaments and devices, glancing brightly in the sunbeams, they rent the air with shrill whoops and yells, responded at frequent intervals by loud shouts of welcome which pealed from the palace and from all parts of the town i while the dense phalanx of warriors in the rear — their forest of lances partially ob- scured under a thick canopy of dust — press- ing tumultuously forward, and howling the wildest war-songs from ten thousand throats, completed one of the most brilliant and savage exhibitions that can be con- ceived. The king was enrobed in the ample spoils of a noble lion, richly ornamented, and half concealing beneath their tawny folds an embroidered green mantle of In- dian manufacture. On his right shoulder he wore three chains of gold as symbols of the Holy Trinity, and the fresh-plucked bough of asparagus, which denoted his re- cent exploit, rose from the centre of an embossed coronet of silver which encircled his regal brow. His dappled war-steed, bedizened with chequered housipgs of blue and yellow, was led prancing behind him, and immediately in advance bounded the champion on a coal-black charger, bearing the imperial shield of massive, silver, with the sacred emblem of Christianity in high relief, while his long plaited raven locks floated wildly behind over the spotted hide of a panther, by which his broad shoulders were graced. Abogaz Maretch and Ayto Berkie rode on either side of the crimson 186 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. debaboch, and a marshalled line of shield- bearers, under the master of the horse, preserved a clear space around the royal person, until the cavalcade had gained the stockaded knoll upon the summit of which the palace is erected. Here a deputation of priests, clad in snow-white garments, received the victori- ous monarch with a blessing, and under a volley of musketry his majesty proceeded to ascend. The outer court was crowded with female slaves, beggars, and menials, who on the first appearance of thf> umbrel- las within the gate, greeted the royal re- turn with the shrillest clamor, and ca^r. themselves prostrate in the dust. Fusi- leers and matchlockmen of the imperial body-guard lined the second palisaded in- closure, and under a.feu-de-joie, their lead- er, performing the war-dance before the holy ark, led the procession to the last in- closure, where the king being met by the eunuchs of the royal household entered the palace by a private door, and surrounded by pages and attendants presently took seat in a high latticed balcony fronting the in- ner quadrangle. Full in the centre stood a gigantic drum, whereat twelve weird old hags thumped unceasingly with crossed hands, keeping- time energetically with their feet, while under the most frightful contortions and gesticulations, they cursed and screamed defiance to the enemies of the state. Six- ty concubines, their faces besmeared with red ochre and grease, and their frizzled locks white under a coat of lard, sang and danced with increasing vehemence — their shrill melody, regulated by the drum, now dwin- dling into recitative, now bursting forth into a deafening chorus. Around this strange group, the dismounted cavaliers formed fif- teen deep, and filling the entire court, poised each his trophy of blood aloft upon the glit- tering point of his lance, and as the whole danced, and whooped, and howled like wild beasts, warrior after warrior, springing with a fiendish yell into the centre of the ring, cast his prize contemptuously upon the ground, and kissing the dust, did abject homage at the feet of the triumphant des- pot. " Behold ia me the king's great warrior," now resounded from every quarter. "lit was who slew his enemy in the open field, or speared him in ihe open hut. May vic- tory ever attend hi& armies in the battle. May Sahela Selassie reign for ever !" A general shout and clashing of shields, with the sudden cessation of the wild music, announced the close of this savage pageant The curtain dropped before the monarch, and, as the actors dispersed rapidly to the right and to the left, the discharge of an old dismounted iron gun, which, vertically elevated against a stone, was revealed at the farther extremity of the court, an- nounced to the public that the tragedy of " the Royal Robber : ' had been performed with the most brilliant success, and would be repeated again during the season. Rumors of the destruction of the entire Christian host had flown to Ang&llala, in consequence of the negoos having, for the first time in his life, passed the night apart from his baggage ; and the grief and con- sternation which prevailed during six days, had only been dispelled by the unexpected and triumphant return of the victorious army. Evil omens, had, indeed, resounded through the departing camp, but destiny had been satisfied with a youthful scion of the royal stock ■ and, although the weap- ons of a lost descendant of the house of Solomon adorned the rude walls of the pa- gan Galla, still fire and sword had ravaged their fair country • and the rich booty with which the adjacent meadows were profuse- ly dotted, proclaimed a harvest which, du- ring thirty years and eighty-four successive expeditions, had not been eclipsed in the annals of Amhara bloodshed and rapine. CHAPTER LXXII. NUPTIALS IN HIGH LIFE. Ayto Hi'erat's crime brought its own punishment. Three days after the return of the expedition to Angollala, he was hon- ored with the hand of Woizoro Belete Shatchau,* a shrew possessing the most diabolical of tempers, whom two husbands had already divorced, although a princess of the blood royal. On the morning appointed for the nup- tials, the British embassy received an early summons to the palace, in order to witness the ceremony. The throne was tricked out with unusual gayety for the occasion, and the king, seated in the highest possible spirits, was still in the hands of the barber, who, having curled the last lock, was ad- justing the green sareti. The court-yard was already crowded with spectators, and a numerous train of female slaves, who had entered by a side-door, were arranging themselves in front. The quaint, locse chemises of blue and red, with broad white borders, which formed the attire of all, im- parted a most grotesque appearance, and * Anglice, " Superior to all." A ROYAL WEDDING— RETALIATION. 187 each carried on her woolly head a large wicker basket, veiled under bead draperies arranged in every variety of fanciful van- dyke. These antique figures and their burdens constituted the dower of the bride, whose wedding garments had been sup- plied by the embassy, and who presently entered, riding upon a white rpule, gayly tricked out in forked housings, chains, and brass bells. The Princes? Worka Ferri,* her sister, followed upon a second, similarly caparisoned ; and botfi ladies were distin- guished by large afiabgirs of crimson silk, as well as by a co^l of silver network which covered the hair, and terminated in a tiara of pendants and globules falling over the forehead. A crimson-striped robe formed the costume of each, and their naturally plain faces were rendered hideous by a coat of red ochre with blue-stained arches in the place of eyebrows, which it is the fashion of Shoa to pluck out. Next in order came the royal band of music, with numerous mounted female at- tendants clad in pea-green vests. A dance and vocal chorus was continued during a quarter of an hour, to the dissonant thun- der of the war drum ; and, as the umbrel- las filed slowly across the court through the opposite wicket, the happy bridegroom approached the throne, and did homage to the sovereign who had thus rewarded his services by alliance. The presence of the priest is so far from being held indispen- sable, that a wedded pair forms a rare phenomenon in Abyssinia. No marriage rites whatever solemnized this union, and the shrew, in full procession, proceeded straightway to spend the honeymoon at the abode of her third husband, who, fol- lowing at a respectful distance, exhibited in his features small anticipation of con- jugal felicity. , Descending through the great gate, a train of dirty cook boys led the van, bear- ing on their heads pots, pans, and culinary utensils. One hundred female slaves fol- lowed, carrying baskets of bread, vessels of hydromel, bedding, wearing apparel, and other baggage required on the journey. Next came the band of flutes, in full play, and, immediately behind, the amiable bride herself, most aptly styled " superior to all." Two maids of honor, bearing decorated barilles of choice wines from the royal cellars, rode on either side of their mis- tress. Numerous mounted Amazons — musty-looking Ethiopic figures in blue and white smocks, and party-colored bead hel- nets, kept the inquisitive crowd at a dis- e. Golden Fruit. 13* tance with their long white wands ; while an escort of three hundred chosen spear- men, flanked by nobles, eunuchs, and pages, on horseback, brought up the rear, amid the thumping of nugareets from the hill top, and the shrill acclamations of the en- tire female population of the town, which rung from every eminence in honor of the nuptials of Princess Belete Shatchau. " My Galla subjects revolted," exclaim- ed the despot tauntingly, as soon as the wedding was over — " My Galla tributaries revolted : I have played them one trick, and I will shortly play them another." The customary congratulations after a victory were offered in the words, " God has aided your arms." " Yes," replied the monarch ; " the God of my fathers has assisted me — I have slain four thousand six hundred of mine enemies, and have captured thirty-seven thousand and forty- two head of cattle." When complimenting the king on the clemency extended toward the prisoners of war, who had on this occasion been re- leased for the first time during his reign, the opportunity was not lost of comment- ing upon the destruction of innocent and helpless children, as being a most inhuman practice, and one quite unworthy of the Christian warrior. The despot smiled, as if half ashamed ; and looking down, re- plied, " I am aware that it is bad, but in all countries we must conform to the cus- toms that prevail. The Galla destroy the Amhara without discrimination, and we do but retaliate. You must all accompany me on my next campaign in January. I shall build a fortified house at Karabarek, and you must there tarry with me. When- ever you are present I will release the captives." During the absence of the army at Gar- ra Gorphoo, one of the Mohammadan in- habitants of Argbbba had been waylaid and wantonly murdered by the Adai'el, who are in constant feud with the frontier population of Bfat. The relations and clansmen of the deceased surprised the visage to which the assassins belonged, and, in revenge, slew sixteen souls. Wul- asma Mohammad succeeded, after much difficulty, in apparently pacifying the low- land tribe, who had in their turn sworn upon the Koran to take bloody vengeance ; but no sooner had he returned from the border than thirteen Moslem females, pro- ceeding from the town of Channoo to draw water in the wady, were barbarously butch- ered at the well. This tragedy being followed by an ap- plication for troops to chastise the delin- 188 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. quents, now induced the remark, that " if the Ada'iel could see one fourth of the Amhara host, they would cease to trouble the frontier." " No," replied his majesty, "it will not do. My grandfather tried his arms with the people below, but he was surprised, and lost four thousand men and six thou- sand oxen in the bed of a dry ravine. The water of the klvalla* is putrid, and the air hot and unwholesome. Noxious vapors arise during the night, and the people die from fever. We fear their sultry climate and their dense forests, and their mode of warfare. They leave open only one ave- nue ; and when the Christians enter the thicket, breaking short their lances, they rush in and fight at close quarters. No one can stand against them. Our muskets avail nothing, by reason of the trees and bushes. Furthermore, the Ada'iel are subtle in strong medicines. They poison the wells with drugs, and corrupt the water with magic spells and enchantments. It is their wont to mix together the flesh of a black dog, a cat, and a certain forest bird. This they strew craftily about the ground, and whoso eateth thereof becomes insane and dies." The presents which custom enforces after a victory, were now placed at the foot of the throne, according to the eti- quette of the court. " My children," re- sumed the king, " I am your father. I am rich. You have already given me too much, and I desire not your property. I wish only for your love, and for that of your nation. I am fully aware of the ob- jects of your residence in my kingdom. I have seen your character, and know that you will slay elephants, and buffaloes, and wild beasts. You must not go away, but accompany me on many more expeditions. You have now seen much people. You must go with me to Gur4gue, where you will behold other tribes, and a far more extensive country. I shall build a wall. My father subdued all the population of Shoa, and I fear no enemy to the south, in Gurague, Enarea, or Zingero. None can stand before me. The Ada'iel and the people of Geshef alone contend with me. In Geshe they have large shields, and fight hand to hand. The country of the Adel is difficult of access, and unfortunate for the Amhara. It is an old dependency of the empire of my ancestors, but the men are brave, and stand firm in battle. They will not run away." * i. e. Lowvallies. t A province on the northern frontier of Shoa. CHAPTER LXXIII. CHRONICLE OF THE INVASION OF MOHAMMAD GRAAN. The allegiance claimed from the Ada'iel by the emperors of Ethiopia, is known to have becorae evasive at a very early period. Centuries age, gold was returned for gold, apparel for apparel ; and the intractable Moslems were studiously kept in good humor whensoever fr^y thought proper to visit the court of Abyssinia. Their reve- nues arose chiefly from the supply of camels for the transport of merchandise to various parts of Africa, and from the im- portation of fossil salt, which then, as now, passed instead of silver currency, and for which they purchased slaves, together with the rich staples of the interior. Thus the interests of Adel and of Abyssinia have always been so intimately linked, that the declaration of war was certain to prove disastrous alike to the victor and to the vanquished, since it must interfere equally with the commerce by which both were enriched. Nevertheless, upon all suitable opportunities, the fanatic lowlanders, urged by religious hate, plundered the Christian churches, massacred the priests, and put the monks and friars to torture, until they at length drew upon themselves a war of extermination. The Abyssinian chroniclers state that Amda Zion, who died at Tegulet about the middle of the fourteenth century, first made a retributive inroad, in consequence of his rebellious vassals having, among- many other derogatory expressions, taunt- ed him as " a eunuch, fit only to take care of women." But the emperor was never beaten. He overran and laid waste the plains, from the mountains to the borders of the ocean, and swept off to the highlands a prodigious amount of cattle. Every spe- cies of enormity appears to have been prac- ticed in retaliation by the Amhara, who were commanded to " leave nothing alive that drew the breath of life." This behest was obeyed with all the rage and cruelty that revenge and a difference of religion could inspire ; and before the termination of the campaign, the dauntless young king of Wypoo had been slain, together with Saleh, the king of Mara, who boasted de- scent in a direct line from the Apostle. Constant commercial intercourse had long been maintained between Cairo and Abyssinia, both across the desert and by way of the Red Sea. Great caravans, composed formerly of pagans, but now of EMBASSY TO GOA— THE WARRIOR MONK. 189 Mohammaclans, passed in without molest- ation, and dispersed Indian manufactures through the heart of Africa. Friars, priests, nuns ,°and pious laymen, in vast numbers, also set out annually on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, whither, with drums beating before the holy cross, they proceeded by the route of Suakem, making long halts for the performance of divine service. But with the power of the Mamelukes, all com- munication across the desert, whether for commercial or religious purposes, was closed to the Christians. After the con- quest of Egypt and Arabia by Selim I., caravans were invariably attacked, the old were butchered, and the young swept into slavery ; for the emperor of the Ottomans, fully imbued with the merciless bigotry of his' creed, held it a sacred duty to convert by the sword, the subjects of a monarch whose ancestor had been honored with the correspondence of the great founder of the Saracen empire. Many Arabian mer- chants, flying about the same period from the violence and injustice of the Turkish tyrants, had sought an asylum in the oppo- site African states, whereupon the Otto- mans took possession, from Aden, of the sea-port of Zeyla, and not only laid the Indian trade under heavy contributions, by means of their galleys cruising in the nar- row straits of Bab el Mandeb, but threat- ened the conquest both of Adel and Abys- sinia. Betwixt these countries there subsisted peace from the death of Amda Zion to the middle of the fifteenth century. Toward the close of the reign of Zara Yacoob, who founded Debra Berhan, the flame of discord was again fanned by a certain queen of Zeyla, who is said to have as- pired to the hand of the emperor ; but the Christian arms were still in the ascendant. Baeda Mariam', the next occupant of the throne, passed his life in a constant strug- gle to assert supremacy over the low coun- try ; and, on his death-bed, he caused him- self to be so turned that his face might be toward the sandy deserts of the Adai'el, to whose subjugation his whole energies had for ten years been devoted. Mafoodi's inroads, it has been seen, com- menced during the reign of Alexander. They continued, with increasing horrors, throughout that of his successor Naod. Nebla Dengel being only eleven years of age when called to the throne, Helena, his mother, ruled during his minority. Albu- querque was at that period viceroy of India, and to him the queen-dowager sent to im- plore assistance for troubled Abyssinia. Arriving at Goa, the embassador announc- ed himself to be the bearer of " a fragment of wood belonging to the true cross on which Christ died, which relic had been sent, as a token of friendship to her brother Emanuel, by the empress over Ethiopia ;" and this overture was in due time followed by the arrival at Massowah of an embassy from the king of Portugal. Father Alvarez has recorded the unfa- vorable reception experienced in Shoa at the hands of the young emperor, who could never be brought to recognize his mother's proceedings, which had led to this influx of foreigners. At the age of sixteen, hav- ing adopted the title of Wanag Suggud, signifying, "■ feared among the lions," he had taken the field in person against Ma- foodi, who, backed by the rebellious king of Adel, still continued his wasting inroads on the Christian frontier. At the opening of. the campaign, this fanatic, who had re- solved either to conquer or to die a martyr to his religion, threw down the gauntlet of defiance to the Christian chivalry, and it was instantly accepted. The infidel was slain in single combat by the monk Gabriel, a soldier of tried valor, who had assumed the monastic cap during the pre- ceding reign in consequence of having been deprived of the tip of his tongue for treasonable freedom of speech. Cutting off the head of this vanquished antagonist, he now threw it at the feet of his royal master, and exclaimed, " Behold, sire, the Goliath of the Infidels !" The green stand- ard of the Prophet and of the faith was taken, twelve thousand of the Islams were slain, and the youthful emperor, in defi- ance, struck his lance through the door of the king of Adel. The monk who had thus delivered Abyssinia from her worst scourge, was welcomed with the applause of the whole nation. His path was spread with green branches of the myrtle. Maid- ens pressed forward to strew flowers in his path, and matrons, celebrating his achieve- ments with songs, placed garlands on his head, and held out their babes to gaze at the warrior as he passed. It was shortly after the departure of the Portuguese embassy that Graan, " the Left-handed" — then king of Adel — made his first appearance on the Ethiopian stage, where he was long the principal actor. In league with the Turkish bashaw on the coast of Arabia, this mighty warrior sent his Abyssinian prisoners to Mecca, and in return was furnished with a large body of Janizaries, at the head of whom he burst into Efat and Fatigar, drove off the popu- lation, and laid waste the country with fire. In 1528 he took possession of Shoa, over- 190 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ran Amhara, burnt all the churches, and swept off immense booty. In his next campaign the invader wintered in Bege- meder, and the following year hunted the emperor like a wild beast through Tigre to the borders of Sennaar, gave battle to the royal troops on the banks of the Nile, with his own hand slew the monk Gabriel, who had vanquished Mafoodi in single combat, cut the army to pieces, practiced every species of atrocity, and set fire to half the churches in Abyssinia. Famine and plague now raged, and car- ried off those whom the sword had spared. The princes of the* blood were all de- stroyed, Axum was burnt, and the mon- arch himself, after being compelled to take refuge in the wilderness, was finally slain. With him died also the boasted splendor of the Abyssinian court, for he was the last monarch of Ethiopia who displayed the magnificence of a " king of kings." Mark, the aged archbishop, had, on his death-bed, appointed as his successor John Berm,udez, a Portuguese who had been detained in the country, and at the request of Claudius, who succeeded to the throne, he now proceeded to Europe to obtain as- sistance. Don Christopher de Gama, with five hundred soldiers, obtained possession of Massowah, slew the governor, and sent his head to Gondar, where, as an early pledge of future victory, it was received with raptures by the queen. The general was shortly confronted by Graan in per- son. Artillery and muskets were for the first time opposed in Abyssinia, and the Portuguese leader being wounded, took refuge in a cave. Deaf to persuasion, he refused to seek safety in flight ; and a Turkish lady of extraordinary beauty, whom he had made prisoner, and who had affected conversion to Christianity, shortly betrayed him to the enemy. He was car- ried before Graan, who with his left hand cut off his head, and sent it to Constanti- nople, his body being mutilated, and sent in portions to Arabia. But the Portuguese were far from being disheartened by this grievous misfortune, and the armies were shortly in a position again to try their strength. Before the engagement had well commenced, Peter Lyon, a marksman of low stature, but passing valiant withal, who had been valet to Don Christopher, having stolen unper- ceived along the dry channel of a ravine, shot Graan •through the body. He fell from his horse some distance in advance of the troops, and the soldier, cutting off one of the infidel's ears, put it into his pocket. This success was followed by the total rout of the Mohammadans ; and an Abyssinian officer of rank finding the body of the redoubted chief, took possession of his mutilated head, which he laid at the feet of the emperor in proof of his claim to the merit of the achievement. Having witnessed in silence the impudence of his rival, the valet produced the trophy from his pocket, with the observation that his majesty doubtless knew Graan sufficiently well to be quite certain "that he would suffer no one to cut off his ear that pos- sessed not the power to take his head also." Delivered from his enemy, Claudius now sought to repair the ravages which had been committed in his country. A total eclipse of the sun shortly threw both ai my and court into consternation — every igno- rant monk who practiced divination decla- ring the phenomenon to portend another invasion from the lowlanders. But in spite of this prophecy an interchange of prison- ers took place. Del Wumbarea, the widow of Graan, had thrown herself into the wilds of Atbara, and her son Ali Jeraad, who was made prisoner after his father fell, being now set at liberty, Prince Menas, only brother to the emperor, was released from his captivity in the sultry deserts of Adel, whither he had been carried during the reign of Nebla Dengel. Noor, the ameer of Hurrur, who was deeply enamored of Del Wumbarea, had proved the means of her escape from the fatal field whereon her husband died. The heroine now pledged her hand in marriage to the hero who should lay the head of Claudius at her feet ; and Noor instantly sent a message of defiance to the emperor, who was engaged in rebuilding the cele- brated church of Debrawork,* which had been burnt by the infidels. Claudius, who had almost by a miracle rescued Abys- sinia from the Mohammadans, marched in- stantly to accept the challenge. Many prophecies were current among the sol- diery that the campaign was to prove un- fortunate, and the hot-headed monarch to lose his life ; but he laughed at these monkish predictions, avowing death in the midst of an army of unbelievers to be in- finitely preferable to the longest and most prosperous reign. The rival armies were on the very point of engaging, in the year 1559, when the high-priest of Debra Libanos rushed be- fore the emperor, to declare a vision, in which the angel Gabriel had warned him not to suffer the king of the church of Ethiopia, to expose himself in a needless i. e. " Mountain of gold." A DROVE OF SLAVES— ROYAL BEDCHAMBER. 191 fight. Thus discouraged, the cowardly Abyssinians instantly fled, leaving Clau- dius supported only by a handful of Por- tuguese soldiers, who were soon slain around his person, and he immediately after- ward fell, covered with wounds. His head was cut off, and laid by Noor at the feet of Del Wumbarea, who, in observance of her pledge, became his wife ; and with truly savage ferocity commanded the trophy to be suspended by the hair to the branches of a tree before her door, in order that her eyes might continually be gladdened by the sight. It hung in this position during three years, ere it was purchased by an Armenian merchant, in order that it might be interred in the holy sepulchre of St. Claudius at Antioch ; and the name of the hero who had been victorious in every ac- tion save that in which he died, has since been enrolled in the voluminous catalogue of Abyssinian saints, where it now occu- pies a conspicuous place as the destroyer of Mohammad, surnamed ' ; the Left-handed." CHAPTER LXXIV. PROCEEDINGS AT ANGOLLALA. Certain Abyssinian potentates of old are recorded by their biographers, to have bestowed in religious charity all worldly substance, saving the crown upon their heads. Such will never be recorded of Sahela Selassie, whose endowments, al- though frequent, are invariably regulated by prudence. Reluctance to part with property possessed, stigmatizes his every act of munificence, and thriftiness even, adulterates the incense of his votive sacri- fice. The countless droves of sturdy beeves which now ranged over the royal meadows, were daily inspected with evident signs of satisfaction ; but while the sWkocf- ut P1 . c distributed over the various pasture lands, the leanest kine were dispatched to the sev- eral churches .and monasteries, as offerings after the successful campaign. At this season of rejoicing and festivity, the host of maimed, diseased, emaciated, and loathsome objects, that habitually in- fest the outer court, or crawl in quest of alms around the precincts of the palace, had increased to a surprising extent in or- der to share the royal bounty. Swarms of itinerant paupers, who bivouacked under the old Galla wall, sang psalms and hymns in the streets during the entire night ; and long before dawn, the clamor commenced around the tents of a throng of mendicants resembling the inmates of a lazar house, who with insolent importunity reiterated their adjurations for relief by Georgis, Miriam, Michael, and every other saint in the Abyssinian calendar. Many petty pil- ferings were of course committed by this ragged congregation ; and a deputation of the inhabitants of Angolalla soon present- ed a petition to the throne, praying for the dismissal of the vagrants, who had become an intolerable public nuisance. On the festival of Tekla Haimanot, the embassy received an invitation to witness the distribution of the royal alms, which was to be followed by a beggars' feast. The wonted inmates of the palisaded in- closure were no longer there ; but their place was occupied by a • drove of even more wretched beings just imported with a caravan from Gurague. Upward of six hundred slaves, of every age, from child- hood to maturity, and most of them in a state of perfect nudity, who had been snatched by the hand of avarice from the fair land of their birth, were huddled to- gether under the eye of the rover for in- spection by the officers of the crown, pre- paratory to being driven to market ; and the forlorn and destitute appearance, both of old and young, stamped them objects but too well-fitted for participation in the charity of a Christian monarch. Immediately on arrival within the court- yard of the palace, the British strangers were conducted by the king to the royal bed-chamber — a gloomy apartment, lighted chiefly by the blaze of an iron chafing-dish, and shared not only by a Moolo Falada cat, with a large family of kittens, but by three favorite war-steeds, whose mangers were in close proximity to the well-screened couch. Cleanliness did not characterize the warm curtains ; and although cotton cloth had been pasted round the mud walls for the better exclusion of the wind, an air of peculiar discomfort was present. A rickety alga in one corner, a few hassocks covered with black leather, an Ethiopic version of the Psalms of David, and a carpet consisting of withered rushes, were the only furniture ; and the dismal aspect of the room was further heightened by the massive doors and treble palisades which protected the slumbers of the suspicious despot. In one corner stood an unopened bottle, to which the king pointed, and laughed heartily. It had been obtained from the Gyptzis by the master of the horse, in or- der to prove that old Cognac was not more potent than the ardent spirits manufactured in the royal distillery, which is so liberally 192 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. seasoned with Cayenne pepper as to re- semble the strongest " cholera mixture." Finding the cork sealed, his majesty had resolved, after much deliberation, that this new acquisition should be enrolled by the scrivener in the catalogue of his treasures, and hoarded with the other foreign curi- osities in the magazine at Aramba. A label of vellum having accordingly been attached, the donors were requested to write thereon in fair Amharic characters " a statement of the contents, accompanied by copious directions for their use, and dis- tinct instructions relative to the proper dose." This had been done, and his majesty's mirth arose from a not-to-be-mistaken por- trait of a certain contemptible little subject of his own, with a passing red nose, lying prostrate on his face beneath the following written caution : — " Fire water — recom- mended in small quantities ; maximum dose one half wantcha* Let him who shall exceed this measure beware of the fate of Berik." This allusion, made for the benefit of posterity, needed no interpre- tation ; for it was already matter of scandal that the subject of the caricature, who was employed under the purveyor-general, and never omitted to repair to the fireside of the Gyptzis at their hour of dinner, in or- der to obtain a share of his own bad " hon- ey-water," had recently quaffed, for some imaginary ailment, a dose of eau-de-vie, which so bewildered his never very brill- iant ideas, that he was discovered the fol- lowing morning, by his wife, lying at the foot of a steep precipice, with a face dis- figured for life. The young princes of the blood royal had arrived in the course of the morning, for the purpose of being invested with governments ; and in the verandah of an adjacent building pertaining to the harem, Hailoo Mulakoot, the elder of the twu, had been pointed out by an attendant as the guests entered. He disappeared instantly upon perceiving that he was observed, and was no more seen; but the before inex- plicable mystery, which had brought about an acquaintance with precincts forbidden, was presently unravelled by the introduc- tion of the younger brother, who, with eyes veiled, was led in by a withered eunuch, in order that he might receive medical as- sistance. Saifa Selassie " the sword of the Trini- ty," is an extremely aristocratic and fine- looking youth, about twelve years of age, possessing the noble features of his sire, * The horn drinking-cup used in Abyssinia. with the advantage of a very fair instead of a swarthy complexion. Beneath a red chintz vest of Arabian manufacture, he wore a striped cotton robe, which fell in graceful folds from the girdle, and from the crown of the head, a tassel of minutely- braided locks streamed to the middle of his back. " This is the light of mine eyes, and dearer to me than life itself," exclaimed the king, withdrawing the bandage, and caressing the boy with the utmost fond- ness — "Give him the medicine that re- moves ophthalmia, or he, too, will be blind like his father." His majesty was assured that no alarm need be entertained ; and that, although the cause was to be regretted, the day which had brought the honor of an inter- view with the young prince could not but be deemed one of the highest good fortune. Much affected by this intimation, he laid his hand upon the arm of the party speak- ing, and replied, " We do not yet know each other as we ought, but we shall daily become better and better acquainted. " Whence comes this masked V resumed the inquisitive monarch, raising a Catholic cross devoutly to his lips, as the royal scion was reconducted by the withered at- tendant toward the apartments of the queen ' — "to what nation does it belong?" "It is the emblem of those who, in their at- tempts to propagate the Romish religion in Ethiopia, caused rivers of blood to flow," was the reply. " No matter," exclaimed his majesty, in rebuke to the Mohammadan dragoman who would fain have assisted in the restoration of the paper envelope — " How dost thou dare to profane the holy cross] These are Christians, and may touch it, but thou art an unbeliever." The votaries of St. Giles had, mean- while, been ushered through a private wicket, and in the adjacent inclosure a crowd of horrible and revolting objects ioimed ttfc inuot miserable of spectacles. The palsied, the lepiuua, tho scrofulous, and those in the most inveterate stages of dropsy and elephantiasis, were mingled with mutilated wretches who had been be- reft of hands, feet, eyes, and tongue, by the sanguinary tyrants of Northern Abys- sinia, and who bore with them the severed portions, in order that their bodies might be perfect at the day of resurrection. The old, the halt and the lame, the deaf, the noseless, and the dumb, the living dead in every shape and form, were still streaming through the narrow door ; limbless trunks were borne onward upon the spectres of asses and horses, and the blind, in long Indian file, rolling their ghastly eyeballs, THE BEGGARS' FEAST— THE EXECUTION. 193 and touching each the shoulder of his sightless neighbor, groped their way to- ward the hum of voices, to add new hor- rors to the appalling picture. An annual muster-roll being kept as a check, all who were ascertained to have been participators in the distribution of the preceding year were unceremoniously eject- ed by the myrmidons of the purveyor-gen- eral, who has the interests of the state revenues warmly at heart. The mendi- cants were next classed in squads accord- ing to their diseases, and the dwarf father confessor, by no means the least frightful object in the assembly, proceeded, in capa- city of king's almoner, to dipense the royal bounty with a judicious hand. Sheep, clothes, and money, were distributed ac- cording to the apparent necessities of the wretched recipients, while each donation made was carefully registered by the scribes in attendance ; and half-baked bread, raw beef, and sour beer, in quantities sufficient to satisfy every monk and beggar in. the realm, having been heaped outside the pal- ace gate, all ate their fill, and dispersed. Next to the merciful disposition of Sa- hela Selassie, in which his character offers its brightest theme for panegyric, his mu- nificence to the indigent may be ranked among his most prominent virtues. While the needy never retire empty handed from his door, no criminal ever suffers under the barbarous mutilation, so many distressing monuments of which had this day shared his liberality. Blood flowing from the veins of a subject finds no pleasure in the eyes of the ruler of Shoa. Under his sway the use of the searing iron has become a thing obsolete, and the sickening sentence is un- known which in the northern states con- demns the culprit to the wrenching off of hands and feet, whereof the teguments have previously been severed with a razor at the wrist and ankle. But widely opposed are the views of humanity entertained in dif- ferent climes ; and the scene which await- ed return from the banquet, although in strict accordance with retributive justice, was in appalling contrast with the more merciful fiat of civilized jurisprudence. «« A warrior had been convicted upon un- deniable evidence of the foul murder of his comrade in arms, with whom he had lived for years on terms of the closest intimacy. During the recent campaign, he had gone with hia companion into the wood, and ta- king advantage of the opportunity afforded by hostilities with the Galla, had felled the unsuspecting man to the earth with a blow of his sword. Fame, such as is only to be acquired by the slaughter of the foe, prompt- ed the dastardly outrage ; and the treach- erous assassin who had imbrued his hands in the blood of his dearest friend, now placed the green trophy of valor trium- phantly on his guilty head. " Where is thy brother ?" was the question that await- ed his return to the camp ; but, like Cain of old, he denied all knowledge of what had befallen the absentee ; and it was not until the mutilated body had been discov- ered, that suspicion fell heavily upon him- self. Mourning relatives threw themselves in sackcloth at the imperial footstool, and cried aloud for the blood of the prisoner. Arraigned before the monarch, the inves- tigation had been patiently conducted du- ring the beggars' feast, and the "Fetha Negest," having been duly consulted, the sentence proceeded from the royal lips — " Take him hence, and deal with him as you will." The last sun that was to shine upon the malefactor, was sinking fast toward the western horizon, when with hands bound behind his back, he was hurried from the presence for instant execution. Its rising rays had seen him seated at the door of the hut, while his young wife adorned his locks with the newly plucked branch of aspara- gus, that was the record of his infamy, but the meridian beam had witnessed his arrest. The relatives of the murdered, and a band of the king's headsmen, all armed with shield and broad-headed spear, now formed a close phalanx round him as he proceeded with the stoicism of the savage to meet his well -merited doom, and an infuriated mob followed, to heap taunt and ignominy upon his numbered moments. Impatient of delay, the friends of the de- ceased were about to immolate their victim en the meadow close to the encampment of the embassy ; but adjured by the life of the monarch, they urged the culprit over the rocky mound adjoining the Galla wall, which was already crowded with a vast concourse of spectators, burning for the consummation of the last sentence of the law. Scarcely had the unresisting crimi- nal passed the summit, than an eager hand stripped the garment from his shoulder, and twenty bright spears being poised at the moment, he turned his head to the one side, to receive a deep stab on the other. While still reeling, a dozen sharp blades were sheathed ii his heart, and a hundred trans- fixed the prostrate body. Swords flashed from the crooked scabbard — the quivering corse was mutilated in an instant, and on the next the exulting executioners took their way from the gore-stained ground, 194 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. howling with truly savage satisfaction the Christian chorus of death ! Mother, sisters, and wives, now flocked around the lifeles clay, rending the air with their piercing shrieks. " Alas ! the brave have fallen, the spirit of the bold has fled." " Wo unto us, we have lost the son of our declining years " — " our brother and our husband is gone for ever !" Bared breasts were beaten and scarified, and temples were torn with the nails until the evening closed, and it was dark when the mourners ceased their shrill lamentations for the dead. But the turbaned priest was not there ; no absolution had been given, nor had the last sacrament been partaken ; and the unhal- lowed remains of the murderer would have found a tomb in the maw of the hyena and the vulture, had not a charitable hand in- closed them under a cairn of stones by the highway side, where many a grass- grown mound marks the fate of the cowardly as- sassin, who has destroyed his brother in the wood, and whose memory is coupled with dishonor. CHAPTER LXXV. TRIUMPHAL ENTRY TO THE CAPITAL. " Rectjler pour mieux sauter" is a max- im strictly in accordance with his majesty's notions of strategy. Twenty days had elapsed since the return of the expedition, when the arrival before the palace of six thousand head of cattle proclaimed the suc- cess of a second sweeping foray directed against the Ekka and Finnnni Galla. A Mohammadan merchant residing at Roque, the market town and great slave-mart of Yerrur, was suspected of having with his own hand slain the son of Ayto Besueh- nech, grand nephew to the king — this youth having pressed on far in advance of his comrades in hot pursuit of the retreating pagans. To avenge his untimely death, a detachment consisting of five thousand horse, under the command of Ayto Berkie, Chilo, and Dogmo, the government of which latter chief had previously been extended in acknowledgment of his recent services, made a forced march through Bulga, and although foiled in their principal object by the precipitate flight of the rover "vhose life they sought, the whole of hif family and followers were massacred, his effects plun- dered, and his house burnt to the ground. The survivors of the Ekka and Finnnni tribes, believing the fatal storm to be ex- pended, had already returned with the resi- due of their flocks and herds, and were actively engaged in restoring their dilapi- dated habitations, when the Amhara hordes again burst over their fair valley, slew six hundred souls, and captured all the remain- ing cattle, thus completing the chastise- ment of these devoted clans, who, notwith- standing the generous restoration of their enslaved families, had failed to make sub- mission — and redeeming the royal pledge " to play the rebels another trick." The king had not honored Ankober with his presence since the arrival in Shoa of the British embassy, but his majesty now announced his intention of entering the capital in triumph. Thinly attended, and unscreened by the state umbrellas, he is- sued at sunrise on horseback through the sirkosh ber, the only addition to his wonted costume being a plume of nine feathers stripped from the rasa or egret, and worn in the hair in token of his recent prowess at Boora Roofa. Putting his horse into a gallop, he never drew bridle until arrested by the Bereza, many parties under gover- nors of the adjacent districts joining the royal cortege from various quarters, and swelling the retinue to two thousand eques- trians, who continued at a furious pace to clatter over the stony ground. Mosabiet, a village standing on a penin sula formed by the junction of the Toro Mesk water with the Bereza, imparts its name to this, the most direct road from Angoilala to Ankober. The river forded, the king mounted his mule, and diverging to the right, passed through a valley stud- ded with hamlets, the inhabitants of which, male and female, came forth with many prostrations to the earth, while the women raised their voices together in the usual ringing heltltee. On all occasions of rejoicing and cere- mony, whether on the successful return of the monarch or of the warrior, or on the sight of a passing procession, the ladies of Abyssinia, with their characteristic love of noise, thus burst forth into a thrilling cla- mor of welcome, moving the tongue with more than ordinary volubility against the palate, and producing a continuous succes- sion of tremulous notes, which are more agreeable to the listener than to the per- former. One watchful dame on the out- skirts perceives the approach of the caval- cade, and forthwith gives out her wild screech of warning. In a moment, the mountain side is covered with every female within hearing- ; the Hil ! HI ! HI ! pro- gresses fast and furious as they bend nearly double, to assist in upraising the yelling chorus ; tears stream from their eyes in the GRAAN'S STONE "—THE KING IN HIS ROBES. 195 violence of the exertion, and far and near the hills resounded with the gathered vol- ume of their shrill throats. The king halted for a moment at a pile of stones by the way-side, covered with rags, feathers, and flowers, to which every devout Christian adds his tribute while sa- luting it with his lips. It points to the white-roofed church of Michael the arch- angel, peeping through a dark clump of junipers at some distance from the road, and many were the fervent kisses of adora- tion bestowed by the triumphant warriors. A little beyond, a large black cross on the summit of the tumulus, directs attention to the residence of Ayto Berri, quarter-mas- ter-general of the Amhara forces. Here his majesty again diverged, in order to lead the cavalcade through the most thickly populated tract : and resting for half an hour in the Ungua-mesk, one of the many royal meadows, now black with the Galla herds, turned suddenly off to the Motatit road, according to invariable custom, ob- served when proceeding to the capital after a successful foray. Arsiamba water, styled at its point of intersection with the route usually pur- sued, Ya Wurjoch Materia, the " resting- place of merchants/' is a singular cataract, rolling over columnar basalt, of which the ribbed cliffs on either side are thronged by bees. J5ut hy far die most interesting ob- ject is a white pillar of stone, overgrown with nettles, standing at the foot of the hills which bound the Ungua-mesk. " Graan's stone," as this column is designated, is famous from an existing tradition that the Moslem invader once tied his war-horse thereto. The most preposterous legends are to this day believed with reference to the personal prowess of the hero, his gigantic stature, and the colossal size of his steed. Graan is said to have wielded a brand twenty feet in length ; and, al- though it is matter of notoriety that he was shot in the manner already narrated by a Portuguese soldier, he is represented to have received four thousand musket bullets before yielding up the ghost. The supernatural achievements of this conquer- or are handed down in an extant Amharic volume ; and his inroads gave birth in the mind of the people of Shoa to a supersti- tious dread of the Adaiel, such as was long entertained of the Turks in Northern Eu- rope, and which it has been seen, extends , even to the warlike monarch. Abundantly cultivated, and rich in gra- zing land, the tract passed over is through- out so destitute of trees and even bushes, lhat the inhabitants employ no other fuel than dried manure. Arrived at the sum- mit of the Chaka mountain, where strag- gling cossos break the monotony of the landscape, many hundred females, assem- bled from the numerous villages in the vi- cinity, lining the surrounding heights, again kept up one continued cry. It was drowned at intervals by discharges of musketry, which echoed among the broken glens as the despot descended ; and, pre- ceded by a war-dance wherein all the warriors joined, he finally took up his quar- ters for the night in a house separated by a deep inumbrated valley from the capital. Early the ensuing morning the embassy, in full uniform, rode out to the Chaffa meadow at the foot of the palace, to meet and welcome his majesty, who, after ar- raying himself within a marquee erected for his accommodation, shortly appeared through a gorge in a low range of hills, which was crowned on either side by matchlockmen of the imperial body-guard. These kept up an incessant fire as the royal cortege advanced over the grassy plain, preceded by a band of mounted warriors, who, as on the occasion of the triumphant entry to Angollala, careered in intersecting circles. The king bestrode a richly caparisoned mule, and wore a green scarf mantle of Delhi embroidery. A gol- fjpri oolletr- orioirolcd Into licok, a/ii>, ^ c»3 e3 •^ THE MAGIC LAKE— THE HALLS OF SORCERY. 201 crated thread ; and having raised the flick- ering embers with sweet woods and subtle essences, Thavanan crushed the head of the fowl under his heel until the brains flowed, and then dashed the body deep among the pile. The flame shot aloft in one fierce spire of light, blazing like the arrow of the in- fernal host, and, again satiate with the pun- gent offering, sank amid a stifling cloud of fetid smoke. Casting himself upon the rocky floor in an attitude of prostration, the youth listened in awe to the moans of the wind which had succeeded to the hur- ricane, revelling heretofore in fierceness during the performance of the rite. But his courage was firm as the foundations t)f Mamrat ; and it was well for him that his heart quailed not during that hour of perilous endurance. Yells and shrieks burst through the cav- ern. Foul spirits mowed and chattered in his ear, and the cold rushing of pinions flapping lazily through the air, wetted him with slimy spray. But revenge and des- peration had steeled his nerves ; and after a period of intense misery, which appeared without limit to the sufferer, the melan- choly sound of a drum came faintly boom- ing over the face of the waters — the wel- come token that the hour of trial was past, and that the sacrifice had been accepted. Waxing louder and louder, the pealing of the music shook the rocks with its contin- uous reverberations. Unearthly voices, ceasing to torment, faded altogether away ; and the renegade, casting one look on the ashes of things holy and once prized, step- ped forth from the mouth of the cavern. Wild and fearful was the scene which met his gaze. The moon had for a mo- ment emerged from behind a dense canopy, settled dark and thick around the eastern horizon. Huge masses of pale cloud over- head, assumin'g the likeness of armed hosts, careered in fierce pursuit along the midnight vault of heaven ; and from every quarter the roar of thunder, with the burst- ing of the levin bolt, proclaimed to the as- tounded beholder that spirits of another world were engaged in awful contention. Unruffled by the breeze, the great lake spread a sheet of molten silver at his feet ; while every cliff* and crag, revealed boldly to view, was fearfully lit up by the reflected glare of an unearthly lurid flame, which at short intervals spouted in jets from the centre of the expanse, amid streams of wild, melancholy music, and the clash of the magic drum. Roused to daring deeds in this moment of frantic excitement, with one short praver 14 to the spirit he had invoked, Thavanan plunged headlong into the cold deep wa- ters, which gurgled and bubbled over his descending form ; but baffled in his design to reach the glittering white sand — now the only haven of his hope — he rose once more to the surface. All was dark, dismal, and lonely. A thick fog covered the water, and the earth, and the sky, while the voice of his better angel alone came moaning through the mist, bewailing the lost soul of a son of Adam. Again and again he struggled to reach the glowing bed of the lake, but mortal strength and energy were unavail- ing to pierce the fathomless abyss. The clear, searching element rushed unresisted into his mouth and ears — the faintness'of death spread over his exhausted limbs — and his senseless form, tossed to and fro, became the sport of the heaving billow. But the sound of the spell had swept along the blast, and the savor of the sacri- fice had penetrated into the halls of magic. A long, sinewy arm raised the body high over the water. The drum again pealed -through the boundless space ; the bright fire threw one last triumphant stream aloft above the surface, and a heavy plunge be- neath the waves was succeeded by the utter silence of Solitude. The soft tinkling sound of harps first stole upon the slumbers of the neophyte. Bright, happy visions flitted over his awa- kening senses, and the sweet melody of voices ushered him again into existence. Starting from his trance, the bewildered Thavanan found ample scope for the indul- gence of his wonder and astonishment. Far as the eye could scan, innumerable arcades stretched in endless vistas on every side, with alternating domes of the purest pearl. Pillars of variously-colored amber and crystal rose to sustain the glowing fabric, and cloths, such as empe- rors alone can boast, strewed the floo^ in unbounded profusion. In the centre of each gallery ^°°d &n altar of virgin silver, from whic ; * a never- failing arrow of flame diffuse* m mellow light over the glittering pile's of the hall, tints varied as the hue? o f the rainbow. Around their more searching sister, jets of sweet-scented v*ter, playing high in the air, scattered <^e most exquisite odor ; and dancing ov the apex of each fountain, a sparkling°-merald, the ransom of a mon- arch, geccly regulated the rush of the pris- matic stream, in token that the elements were here held under control x 302 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Superb paintings, illuminated in trans- parency, shed a dreamy languor over the scene, and music lent her exhaustless charms to captivate the sense. Sweet strains of triumph, ringing in full chorus among the lofty domes, died gently away into the softness of repose ; and at times the low murmur of the waves fell pleas- ingly upon the ear, as the lake poured forth her springs in homage to the master spirit, and imprinted the kiss of obedience on the magic abode of Warobal Mama. Colossal statues of Famine, War, and Pestilence, frowning upon their lofty pe- destals, towered in all the sternness of brass above the glories of this rich and varied scene. Reared over the iron drum of mis- fortune, the knotted mace was grasped in each giant arm, and the awful peal struck before the coming calamity was well known to the dismayed inhabitants of the upper regions of earth. Arts and sciences had each their sepa- rate niche in the spacious apartment, and favored votaries were deeply engaged in scanning subtle essences, or preparing po- tent spells. The hum of confused voices arose sweet through the fragrant atmo- sphere, while at intervals strange emblems and tokens were delivered by the elders to the attending pupils, who each sprang aloft upon gaudy pinions to execute the behest of his superior. But the smiling face of fair woman was wanting to complete the scene ; for love was unknown in this re- treat dedicated to the dread spirit of the lake. - In the immediate vicinity of the wonder- ing mortal, an elevated throne stood the most conspicuous object. Spiral steps of molten gold led to the shrine of power. Previous stones, sparkling in rich wreaths of enamel, hung a brilliant balustrade in front — and forming the seat of high honor and place, a white ivory shell, filled with silken tresses, rested amid the shining leaves of the ever-flowering lotus. The sevsnake rose in glittering green folds to rective in his soft embrace the recumbent occupvnt ; and ministering spirits of strange form, beting harp and censer, were ranged in silence vj-ound. Thunderii*j peals of music, and a sud- den prostration, proclaimed the presence of the genius of ^e place ; and, amid the clash of the lute a* the northwest, where they established thenselves on the bleakest and most lofty highlnds, and to the pres- ent day have mainlined their independ- ence. One portion hve become converts to the Mohammadan iith, but the occu- pants of the mountain )era adhere to hea- thenism. Woosen Sugud succeeded in subjugating some few t these tribes ; but on the accession of Saela Selassie, they cast off the yoke, and eing joined by a member of the blood-royaof Shoa, became formidable enemies. Foe after force has been sent against Kalal the capital, on the borders of Morabeitie.nd always with the same result. BirrooJukiza, and his successor the brave Abl Damto, have invariably repulsed the 'bldiers of the cross," with fearful slauger, and many governors have been hewnn twain from the crown of the head to e sole of the foot. In the mind of the suystitious Am- hara, fear has gradually gin birth to a belief of the existence in tht> cold moun- tains of a race of fabulous -ings called Arita, to whom their reverseare attribu- ted. The lower portion of t body is de- scribed to be that of an ass o black dog, while the head and shoulders.ssume the human form, and with the g, costume, and language of mankind, colete a dis- guise which enables the mons»s to roam undetected over the border stricts of Shoa, in prosecution of their bdy career of cannibalism. CHAPTER LXXXVII. THERMAL WELLS AT FEELAMBA. The day following the victory over the monarch of the forest, was passed in the laborious operation of hewing out the pon- derous tusks, each of which formed the load of a donkey, and was valued at one hundred German crowns. A strong force was in attendance to keep the peace ; and owing to the inferiority of the tools at com- mand, and the existing necessity of cut- ting completely through the head to the root of the lower tusk, which was half-bu- ried in the soil with the violence of the fall, the trophies were not borne off until the sun had set. The wounded man had mean- while been conveyed to the camp for sur- gical aid. The edges of the laceration in his thigh had been by an amateur practi- tioner neatly brought together with acacia thorns fastened by threads of wiry grass ; and a handful of silver easily reconciled the patient to a few weeks of confinement to his bed. An Armenian, acting in capacity of dra- goman to the embassy, had been the Ms- culapius — a man who, without the smallest pretensions, gratuitously set up also to be a first-rate Nimrod ; and the merriment made throughout this day at his expense had covered him with confusion. When setting out from Ankober with a borrowed musket, he had rubbed his hands and feign- ed the highest spirits at the prospect of resuming his " old sport," for he had slain elephants by the dozen in Northern Abys- sinia ; and their tails, he contended, " like the tails of all elephants, were not tufted at the extremity as asserted by his master, but covered with long hair after the fashion of the horse !" A mouse wandering from an adjacent granary at Dokaket, and un- wisely scampering over his bed, fell a sac- rifice to the well-aimed staff of the hero, who by virtue of this brilliant exploit stuck a white feather in his hair, and whooped the war-song during half the ensuing march. Nevertheless, in the course of the first day's unsuccessful hunting, he had been seen to retreat into a cavity of the earth in a manner far from creditable to his nerves ; he had been heard to exert his voice in earnest supplications for assistance at the rumored approach of the animal for whose life he had previously affected to thirst; and when at last actually confronted with the defunct monster, he was fain to confess that he only once beheld a live elephant "from the summit of a .very high tree, when he discharged his matchlock as thd 224 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. beast retreated, and the people declared that it would die." This curious confession on the part of the impostor, whose statements had here- tofore been credited, led to further disclo- sures. He had been addicted to shooting at hyenas by night in the suburbs of Adowa ; and having once been so fortunate as to overturn the object at which he fired, he flew enraptured to the spot, and was some- what disagreeably surprised to find a Chris- tian man weltering in blood, which flowed from a perforation through the heart. For this untoward murder he was sentenced to pay two hundred pieces of salt, by Oubie the usurper, who, however fond of putting his own subjects to death, permitted no one else to do so with impunity ; and, unable to raise the amount of the fine among his numerous friends, he adopted the alterna- tive of flight. In Shoa he set up as a physician, and practiced medicine, until so many patients died under his hands that the king was compelled to issue an interdiction. It form- ed the veteran's boast, that although well stricken in years, he could still bolt ten pounds of raw beef at one and the same sitting, whereas if subjected to a culinary process, three were more than he could contrive with comfort. Notwithstanding all his exaggerations, he had witnessed strange sights, which are but too well cor- roborated. He had seen the monster Ou- bie, when his conscience was stained by fewer foul crimes than it now is, put out the eyes of his elder brother, who, as the searing-iron hissed over the unflinching orbs, thanked God that he had so long been spared the use of them ; and he had seen Has Subagadis, under whom he had a petty government in Tigre, executed by the hands of a pagan Galla, who undertook the task for some bread and a barille of hydromel, after numerous Amhara had refused to be- come headsman to so humane a prince. Every object in visiting Giddem having been fully and satisfactorily accomplished, the party bade adieu to the hospitable old governor, whose parting request was that he might be favorably mentioned to his royal master. This was unhesitatingly promised ; and Ayto Elbeshar was deputed to lead the way to the celebrated thermal springs of Feelamba, situated within his government, and which it had been deter- mined to visit, on the return route to An- kober. Descending by an extremely steep footpath to a deep dell below the Aito hill, the road wound above a mile along the sunken channel of the narrow river, through which meandered a rippling brook of crys- tal water, agitated at intervals by miniature cascades, and shaded throughout its tortu- ous course by trees and flowering creepers of luxuriant beauty. In an angle formed by a sudden bend are the hot weils, five in number, rising at some distance from each other — the remnants of old volcanic action which have long entirely disappeared in other parts of their theatre, but have left behind them, in this secluded and highly picturesque spot, a salubrious fountain of life. Aragawi, the most celebrated of these springs, derives its name from one of the nine missionaries of the Greek church, who, at the close of the fifth century, completed the conversion of Abyssinia during the reign of Alameda. He is styled also Za Michael ; and is said to ha^e been conveyed on the tail of a huge serpent to the summit of the lofty and then inaccessible rock on Debra Damo, where he founded a convent whereof he is the tutelar saint, and which is still one of the most reiowned in Ethio- pia. It is recorded of Aragawi that he raised the dead, and oused the blind to see ; and among the n^nifold notable mir- acles ascribed to him, he not least remark- able is the conversion*) Christianity of the devil himself, whomhe persuaded to take the monastic cap fo'forty years .' Selassie, the Hod at 118° of Fahren- heit. Mariam, th blessed Virgin, at 115° issues from a ere, provided with a rude door, and partitked by a bar of wood into two cells for ne and old diseases, and in these patients vre in the act of immer- sion. Abbo, ati20°, percolates from the centre of a stp bank of soft red sand- stone, coveringasaltic wacke, through an artificial spoutiserted for the convenience of drinking thvaters. Numbers of dread- fully diseased retches, the lame, the halt, and the blindvho were here assembled, with victims ho had suffered under the Galla knife, rmed a horrible spectacle, which calledvidly to mind the scriptural account of t pool of Bethesda. The sup^itendence of the numerous patients wnhus flock hither to undergo the discipli/of the baths, is limited to the collection «one piece of salt, value two- pence halfiny sterling, for the use of the wells, whj are believed to possess the highest saive virtues in a great variety of disordej The waters possess a slight taste and ell of hydrothion gas ; but the fact that y may be drunk hot from the mm* '**■ THE " EM ABIET"— FORTRESS OF ARAMBA. 225 spring without creating nausea, leads to the conclusion that there is a considerable quantity of herthin (zoogene) dissolved in them. There is no precipitate whatever ; and not five yards from their origin they mingle with a strong current of pure cold mountain water, to which no perceptible alteration is imparted, whether in color, temperature, or taste. Many rare and beautiful birds were here obtained, among others, the adagoota, a superb black-crested falcon, which had been first seen in the wilderness of Giddem. Following the course of the Feelamba to its junction with the Jow-waha, whereof it forms the principal source, the main road was gained at no great distance from the ford, and the steep Gozi range again sur- mounted to the village of Telim Amba. It is situated on a height, divided by a deep valley from the opposite residence of the governor of Mahhfood, whose lady present- ly sent, through a slave girl, the expression of her regret, that "the king's guests" should have chosen to halt at so great a distance ; and although it exceeded four miles, she finally insisted upon sending a huge pepper pie, and other ready-cooked provisions. " You might eat these," was the message delivered by the Abigail : " they were prepared for you, but you have taken another road." On the banks of the Robi, Ay to Abaiyo had again been met, superintending ope- rations at one of the royal threshing-floors, where all the inhabitants of the district were assembled. Self-interested motives had induced him very uncivilly to oppose a day's hunting on that river, upon the al- leged score of existing hostilities with An- bassa Ali. In order to free himself from the unwelcome visitors, he clandestinely instructed the guide to lead the most direct route, and hence arose the offence com- mitted against the " Emabiet"* CHAPTER LXXXVIII. RETURN TO ANKOBER. An extremely steep and infamous road, intersected by numerous mountain torrents, conducted the following day to Aramba. After crossing the district of Arraba Amba, which pays tribute to the crown in agates, whereof numbers of the form adapted for gun-flints are picked up on the face of the soil, the path wound above three miles * i. e. "The mother of the house" — a title of honor employed in speaking of the queen, the princesses royal, the mistress of a family, and the holy Virgin, who is usually styled " Our Lady." along the channel of the Shonkorghie, " Sugar-sides," which takes its source in the Turmaber range, and during the rains becomes quite impassable. Here the black- berry and the corinda still abounded, both in full fruit. The scenery was especially beautiful ; and in a romantic glen on the river bank, partially secluded by a grove of tall trees, among which the green and crimson " zoreet" displayed its gorgeous plumage, stood the picturesque church and monastery of " Our Lady." Aramba was taken from the Areeo Galla by Abiye, third monarch of Shoa ; and now containing a large portion of the treasures amassed by Sahela Selassie and his an- cestors, is garrisoned by a strong detach- ment of gunmen, and intrusted to the cus- tody of a governor, and of a shalaka, or captain of a thousand. No stranger is permitted to enter the village without first giving the personal security of one of the inhabitants ; and access is not under any circumstances allowed to the strong hold, which occupies the apex of a serrated rocky ridge, possessing great natural strength. Here, in a succession of long barn-like buildings, are consigned to mould and cob- webs, and jealously guarded, every civil- ized invention received by the despot, which could in any way tend to the advancement or improvement of his people. The camp was formed on a small level terrace, of which the precipitous brink overlooked a deep dark valley containing the sources of the Aramba water, each flowing through a narrow rocky ravine. Extensively cultivated, and echoing to the shrill voice of the partridge, it is studded with cottages, above the white roofs of which the wreaths of curling smoke rose in agreeable relief against the sombre side of the wood-clothed mountain that bounded the prospect. Woti, towering amid dense forests of timber, and appearing to bear on its venerable summit the crumbling ruins of a giant castle, shut in the view on one side, while on the other, far beyond the re- markable pyramid of Koka, which might be believed the work of Egyptian hands, could be traced the jungly banks of the Awadee, gradually fading into the blue aerial per- spective of the Adel desert. Every civility was experienced at the hands of the governor and shalaka; the latter of whom insisted on mounting guard over the tents in a small temporary bower erected as a defence against the nocturnal cold. Supplies of every description were made in regal profusion ; and the voracity of the Abyssinian followers, to whom the excursion had proved one continual feast, 226 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. was most severely put to the test. The kind's orders, which, in consequence of the excessive cheapness of all the necessaries of life, entail small burden upon the host, threw open the doors at every stage, and afforded the most lavish commissariat ; and although the donors were in most instances precluded from receiving at the hands of his majesty's guests, money m remunera- tion vet presents of tenfold value in their estimation, while they served to remove all sense of obligation incurred, amply reim- bursed the traveller's tax imposed on his subjects by the despotic negoos. But different indeed would be the recep- tion afforded to the man who should ven- ture to wander through the country with- out the royal assistance. A well-stocked purse, or a well-filled portmanteau, would not invariably produce a salutary effect, since the savage has always some plan in abeyance bv which to obtain possession . oi any curious article exposed to his admiring gaze, without imparting aught of value m return ; and in Shoa a show of force is fre- quently requisite to extort that for which the most liberal payment has previously been tendered. Coupled with the desire to obtain property, there ever exists an innate disinclination to part with the most trifling commodity ; and even among the higher classes, a stick or a spear is sometimes peremptorily refused to parties who have previously loaded the ingrate with the rich- est imaginable presents. The last march lay over the mountain mass, of which Mamrat forms the core. The ascent in many parts is extremely tedious, and deep dells, intersecting the road, are traversed each by a clear stream- let, leaping from rock to rock in its down- ward course to vales far concealed from view. A singular bird's-eye view of pon- cho, the state prison, was obtained from the terrace on which, environed by dark iuniper trees, stands the church of Kidana Meherat, " the Covenant of Mercy. This very common title owes itself to an opinion entertained by the Abyssinian fathers, that God appeared to the Virgin Mary m para- dise, and formed a covenant with her tor the redemption of mankind. The voice of the mourners was soon after heard at the house of Ayto Manor, late governor of the district, who, to the great concern of the king, had recently departed this life. In boyhood a playfel- low of Sahela Selassie, the young prince had sworn that, on his accession to the throne, he would not forget him; and throughout his long reign, he had proved true to his word. Although the deceased had, by his disputes with the merchants of Hurrur, forfeited the government of Alio Amba, the most lucrative in the realm, he was immediately invested with another. Year after year, too, honors and wealth had been heaped upon him from the throne, in gratitude for which he willed to his liberal master the entire of his accumu- lated property, without making any pro- vision for his own children, who, in the or- dinary course of things, are permitted to reside twelve months on the father's estate before it reverts to the crown. A great portion of the latter part of the road lay through the mighty forests of Mamrat, of which the scenery was ren- dered singularly beautiful by the admix- ture of vernal and autumnal tints produced at this season, especially by the great proportion of towering evergreens. The shadowy and sombre juniper, fashioned like the tall cedars of Lebanon, and the fresh and lively " sigba," So massy, vast, yet green in her old age," wave stage above stage from the gloomy depths of the valley, to the very pinnacle of the mountain, amid the moss-grown forms of the silver-haired woira. The imperial purple lory, with myriads of brill- iant birds, darted through the cool reces- ses • the bell voice of the campanero tolled with monotonous regularity, and many a clear and sparkling rivulet bounded in splashing cascades over its broken channel. Deep-seated in this secluded retirement, and shut out from the rest of the world by the leafy screen, lies the monastery of Mantek, said to have been founded a thou- sand years. It is inhabited solely by 1 a- beebaL-men strongly suspected of being Jews in disguise— cunning workers m iron, wood, and clay, who are regarded as sorcerers, and shunned accordingly by all save the king, to whom ^ev are endeared. The austerities practiced by this frater- nitv "in order to obtain righteousness be- fore God," are perhaps as severe as any recorded in monkish annals. An oath is taken, under a curse, never to look at a female, nor to hear her voice, nor to eat a morsel of bread which has been prepared by woman's hands, and excommunication for twenty years is the penalty attached to the infringement of the vow. No fire » kindled either on Saturday or on the Sab- bath • the strictest fast is observed through- out the residue of the week ; many sit up to their necks in water for days together, at appointed periods all lash their naked bodies with rods of sharp thorns; and while every brother sleeps m a sitting pos- FATHER STEPHANOS-'RECEPTION AT THE CAPITAL. 227 ture upon a hard clay bench, with his loins girt about by a tough cord, the Alalia, their superior, does penance continually in a massive iron chain. A tree, which points to the monastery of Aferbeine, was adorned by the followers as they passed with the variegated feathers of the zoreet, and with fragments detached from their soiled cotlon garments. The portals of this convent are guarded by a blind dwarf, two feet four inches in stature, who never moves from his post save on men's shoulders. Among the unwashed tenants of the cloister, there was one who did not disdain to stroll forth, that he might greet the triumphant Gyptzis. Father Stephanos was perhaps the least bigoted of his profession, but he possessed his full share of ignorance and superstition. Le- viathan he believed to be a monstrous ser- pent carrying the world on its back. None possessed firmer faith in the winged cha- riot of Ethiopia, in which the celestial ark of the covenant is recorded to have been brought from the Holy Temple ; and he further labored under the happy delusion, that a fire kindled above his secluded con- vent, must, par excellence, be fully as con- spicuous at Jerusalem as the beacons in Palestine by which St. Helena announced at Constantinople her discovery of the Cross ! Old Osman, too, with the aid of his ivory-headed crutch, limped forth from his cell in the outskirts of Ankober, to inquire how his white friends " from beyond the world of waters had entered and passed their time?" A rover in Gurague, who had dealt largely in human flesh, and seen much of the unexplored interior, he finally followed the example of Habakkuk, the Arabian merchant, who, in the days of Tekla Haimanot, the ecclesiastic, and during the reign of King Naod, was brought to embrace Christianity, and be- came Elchegue, or superior of all the monasteries. A proselyte to the religion of Ethiopia, Osman had renounced the false prophet, and put away every Moham- madan abomination, coffee only excepted. Without the sober berry, he averred life to be a very burden ; and the clergy were fain to close their eyes upon the malprac- tices of one whose geographical informa- tion, united with great abilities as a spy, had exalted him to the highest place in the royal favor. A frequent visitor at the residency, the garrulous monk had opposed strenuous ar- guments to the projected war against the elephants, herds of which he represented to be so numerous around the lake Zooai, that caravans are afraid to traverse the dense forests unless provided with a num- ber of young goats, to whose bleat the colossus entertains an unconquerable an- tipathy. " Take my kid with you," he ad- vised : " on no account omit this, or the monsters will assuredly trample you." He had been reminded that " the battle is not always to the strong," but he invaria- bly shook his head ; and even now that the chorus of victory was ringing in his ears, and the tail of the fallen actually in his hand, he continued at intervals to ejacu- late, with upturned eyes, " No ; I like it not." — " By Mary ! it doth not please me." In the environs of the capital a vast con- course of people had assembled to welcome the safe return of the heroes from the hunt- ing-field ; and as the ivory trophies of the chase were borne through the crowd upon the shoulders of six men, great were the demonstrations of astonishment and com- mendation evinced at the successful issue of an expedition so universally ridiculed at its departure. Women and girls shouted in the market-place. Visits of congrat- ulation were forthwith paid by every friend and well-wisher, while the few who had spread disparaging reports, and who still continued to dislike the presence of the British in Abyssinia, evinced by their silence the envy and jealousy to which the unprecedented exploit had given birth in their breasts. Among those who felt more particularly annoyed and chagrined, was Sertie Wold, the purveyor general, who had not long before hunted the wilderness of Giddem for two successive months, with a retinue of more than three thousand spearmen and many fusileers, and who had during that enjoyed very superior op- portunities to the Gyptzis, without however being able to achieve the object of his high- est ambition — the death of an elephant. CHAPTER LXXXIX. HONORARY DISTINCTIONS. The court had removed meanwhile to Angollala ; but a paternal letter from the royal pen awaited the return of the embas- sy to the capital. " " Are my children well ? — have they entered in safety ? I have heard with joy of your success. Horse- men were dispatched, and they brought the glad tidings that you had killed. Has- ten hither, that I may confer upon you the reward due unto those who have slain forty Galla in the battle." No time was lost in accepting this invi- 228 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tation, and a guard of honor met the party on the road. Together with sheep and oxen from the king, and barilles of hydro- mel from the queen, visits of congratula- tion were received from all the principal courtiers present. Among others, came Ayto Egazoo, whose hospitality had been extended on the way to Giddem ; and Ay- to Zowdoo,* formerly governor of the im- portant province of Geshe on the northern frontier, who was dismissed for bravely fighting against the Worro Kaloo, on the occasion when the son of Birroo Lubo fell — an event which, although highly gratifying to his majesty, policy had induced him to visit with severity, by the imprisonment and disgrace of all the principal Amhara engaged. Both of these visitors had, with sorrowful hearts, taken leave of the for- eigners ; and they now repeated the inward conviction entertained, that the animals against which the rash war was to be wa- ged would have " consumed the assailants" — a persuasion which had led them to che- rish not the smallest hope of seeing any one of them again. But greater than all was the delight of the chief smith, when he gave his assurance, after a careful ad- measurement, that the circumference of the ivory trophies then lying in the tent for presentation to his royal master, yielded two full spans in excess of any tusk in the royal magazines. A band of fusileers were at dawn the ensuing morning, directed to escort the triumphant Gyptzis to the presence ; and while ascending the hill through the vari- ous courtyards, they chanted the war cho- rus of death before the spoils of the van- quished elephant borne in advance. A successful expedition against the Loomi Galla having recently returned, the walls of the reception-haii were decorated with numerous trophies, hanging above the scrolls of parchment, closely written with blessings from the priesthood. But the whole court was in deep mourning, in con- sequence of the demise of Ayto Baimoot, the chief eunuch, who was nurse to the king in infancy, and had been through af- ter-life his principal adviser. Heads were close shaven, and temples scarified ; and those immediately about the royal person were clothed in sackcloth and ashes. " Your joy is my joy," exclaimed his majesty, so soon as the usual salutations had been concluded, "and I am delighted when my children are happy. I feared that the elephants would destroy you ; but you have achieved a triumph which none * i. e. My crown. other have accomplished during the reign of Sahela Selassie." While the king listened with great in- terest and seeming astonishment to the de- tail of proceedings, and to the assurance that the monarch of the forest might always be vanquished by a single bullet, if properly directed, the ivory was laid at the royal footstool. A long confession of the per- sonal dread entertained of the elephant by his majesty, was followed by an anecdote formerly touched upon at Machal-wans, of his own discomfiture, and that of his entire host, by a herd encountered during a foray against the Metcha Galla, when, being firmly convinced that the army would be destroyed, he had deemed it prudent to re- treat with all expedition. " I ran," he re- peated several times with emphasis — " I ran, and every one of my followers did the same. You evidently understand the mode of dealing with these monsters ; but if ten thousand of my people ventured to oppose a troop, the elephants would consume them all." After this candid avowal on the part of the despot, courtesy led to the intimation, that a strong desire had been entertained to bring from Giddem the spoils also of a wild buffalo, but that Ayto Tsanna's as- surance was received, of his majesty hav- ing, during an expedition made some years previously, fairly exterminated the species. " Oonut now" " that is true," he replied, "and you must not attempt to kill the ' Gosh,' for it is a most ferocious and dan- gerous beast. What answer should I give if my children were demolished by buffa- loes in the kingdom of Shoa ? They con- sume men and horses. When I slew a buffalo in Giddem, there were ten men and ten horses destroyed. They reside in the thickets where they cannot be seen ; and putting their heads to the ground, annihi- late all who approach their lair. As soon as they have killed a horse, we close round them in vast numbers, and overwhelm them with spears and guns ; but you are few, and cannot attempt this." As this paternal remonstrance might be traced to a desire on the part of the mon- arch to place his own exploit in a superior point of view, the subject was changed by an assurance of the uniform kindness and hospitality experienced on the road, at the hands of Ayto Tsanna, and at those of the emabiet in Mahhfood more especially ; and each pause was followed by an ejacu- lation from the royal lips : " Did I not command him ? Is not Birkenich my daughter ?" Certain rewards and immunities are in THE INVESTITURE— REBELLION OF THE LOOMI. 229 Shoa attached to the destruction of ene- mies of the state, and of formidable wild beasts, which are regulated according to a fixed scale, and never withheld. These his majesty now signified his intention of conferring; and one of the ministers of the crown entering the hall, accordingly pro- ceeded, by the royal command, to invest the victors with the decorations due to the downfall of an elephant. " You have each slain forty Galla," re- peated the king, and are henceforth entitled to wear upon the riglit arm this bitowa, or silver gauntlet, surmounted by this choofa, or silver bracelet ; and on the left shoulder the spoils of a he lion, in token of your prowess, that it may be manifest unto all men." His majesty then, with his own hand, presented newly-plucked sprigs of wild asparagus, to be worn in the hair during forty days, and be at the expiration of that period replaced by the herkoom feather. And as the guests thus honored took their way down through the court-yards of the palace, a band of warriors again preceded, discharging their muskets at intervals, while they°chanted the Amhara war cho- rus, and danced the death triumph. The rebellion of the Loomi, which had now with infinite difficulty been quelled, affords an excellent commentary upon the nature of Sahela Selassie's Galla tenures. A portion of this tribe had failed to pay their tribute to the now disgraced governor of Mentshar, who was wounded in the at- tempt to levy it, and the royal forces took the field against them. Botha, who pre- sided over a portion of the Yerrur district, was also a defaulter, though not in open revolt ; but at the entreaty of his brother Dogmo, a faithful vassal of the king, he came in with his arrears as the army drew nigh ; and, having been mildly reproached for the delay, was- dismissed with pardon. No sooner, however, had he left the camp, than he went over to the Galla on the plain of the Ha wash, and aided the Loomi in a projected attack upon the Amhara. Upon this defection, Shambo, his elder brother, became apprehensive of consequences ; for he conceived it by no means improbable that he might be held responsible for an offence in which he had no participation, as in the case of Siimmad Negoos, late governor of Geshe, who is to this day a state prisoner in consequence of his brother Negooso going over to the ruler of Argob- ba. He therefore determined to renounce his alle fiance, but deferred the execution of his design until after joining Ayto Shishigo, who commanded the troops act- ing against the Loomi ; and it being then proposed to burn a village on the summit of an adjacent hill belonging to the tribe of Botha, he immediately took part with the enemy, and, heading an onset in person, slew a vast number of the Christians. One half of the Loomi hamlets were al- ready in flames, but the work of destruc- tion was now discontinued ; and the royal forces retreating in disorder, were again attacked by the rebel brothers, and defeat- ed with great loss within sight of the camp at Cholie. Perceiving his warriors flying in all directions, the king seized spear and shield, and commanded his steed to be sad- dled, to the end that he might take the field in person. But a wily monk, believing that his majesty felt no real anxiety to place himself in a position of such imminent peril, threatened excommunication if he stirred, and thus the day was irretrievably lost. Ha wash Oosha,* who governs the sub- j'igated sections of the Aroosi, Soddo, Li- ban, and Jille tribes, having meanwhile joined the insurgents, the whole Galla bor- der was in arms. This powerful chieftain, who was for many years the open enemy of the despot, had been finally gained over to the royal interest by large presents, and by the espousal of his daughter; since which period he has held, in nominal sub- jection to the crown, an important portion of the plain of the Hawash. He soon re- pented him of the part he had taken in the present insurrection; and the usual dis- sensions arising among the rebels, a depu- tation, assured of personal safety, fell on the ground before the footstool of the throne with overtures of future fealty. But the country was rich in flocks and herds ; and under the peculiar circumstances of aggra- vation attending the revolt, the delegates were commanded to arise, and to return whence they came, with an assurance to the contrite rebel that his fair plains were shortly to be the scene of pillage and deso- lation. Two successful inroads followed close upon this threat, and ample vengeance was taken. The wealth of the pagans v/as transferred to the royal meadows. Women wrung their hands in captivity, and a black and burning monument attested the lava- like course of the chastising hordes. The season of retribution again drew nigh, and Shambo and Botha trembled at the fate that awaited them. The powerful inter- cession of the church was sought with bribes, and obtained. A hooded monk * i. e. "The dog of the Hawash." 230 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. from the cloisters of Affaf Woira, stood before the throne with a peace offering from those who supplicated pardon, and clemency was graciously extended. As the embassy entered the palace court at the royal invitation, the traitors were perceived prostrate upon their faces, heap- ing dust upon their heads in token of ab- ject humiliation. The fear of the heavy fetters of G6ncho was before their eyes ; and the half-inebriated state jailer scowled at them like a basilisk from the ladder of the balcony. But for once he was cheated of his prey. Five hundred head of choice black cattle, which the caitiffs had treach- erously swept from those whose cause they so lately espoused, were accepted as the price of pardon ; and with an eloquent har- angue from the throne, setting forth the duties of a liege subject, Shambo and Bo- tha were dismissed in peace. CHAPTER XC. CONCLUSION OF A TREATY OF COMMERCE. Angollala continued bitterly cold throughout the month of December ; and fires, although not quite indispensable, were always found pleasant enough. A dry cutting wind from the eastward blew throughout the day ; but the clouds, which often gathered over the surrounding moun- tains, occasionally disturbed the serenity of the afternoon with a squall of hail. Snipe abounded among the serpentine streams which intersected the environs of the palace-hill ; and the hero who possess- ed courage to cast off the blankets before the sun rose, invariably saw the hoar frost lying white over the faded meadows. Dogs continued to howl in packs, and mendicants to importune as of yore. Dirty pages and troublesome idlers still infested the tent ; and the approaches were choked by nume- rous bands of Yedjow Galla, who were begging their way to the country of Ded- jasmach Faris. Day and night their mo- notonous voices arose from every quarter of the town, and Christian adjurations by " Miriam " and " Kedoos Michael," were often nearly drowned by the choral hymn uplifted to Allah and the false prophet. A new invoice of beads, cutlery, trinkets, ghemdjia, and other " pleasing things," had been received from the coast ; and visits were therefore unusually rife on the part of all who loved to be decorated. Abba Mooallee, surnamed " the Great .Beggar in the West," with his adoptedxbrother, ap- peared to hold the lease of the tent in per- petuity ; and in return for amber necklaces and gay chintz vestments, hourly volun- teered some promise, simply, it would seem, that they might afterward enjoy the pleasure of forfeiting a gratuitous oath. If solemn asseverations by highly respect- | able saints and martyrs were to be received I with credit, messengers were almost daily ! dispatched, and on fleet horses too, for the ! purpose of bringing from the Galla de- pendencies on the Nile, among other trea- sures, the spoils of the gdssela, a black leopard, elsewmere not procurable, and " worn only by the governors of provinces." But by some unaccountable fatality, not one of these fleet couriers ever found his way back to the English camp at Angol- lala; and the cry meanwhile continued, without intermission — " Show me pleasing things ; give me delighting things ; adorn me from head to foot." Nor were there wanting other standing dishes, of an equally rapacious and insa- tiable character, and scarcely more addict- ed to veracity. Gadeloo, " the hen-pecked," was punctual in his attendance, by order of the emabiet of Mahhfood, who had al- ways a new want to be supplied. " May they buy," with an unsound steed for sale at an unconscionable price, brought daily an urgent request of some sort from his spouse. Neither did any morning pass without a protracted visit from Shunkoor, " Sugar," own brother to the queen, escort- ed by Ayto Dedjen, " Doors," his shadow and boon companion, and grand-nephew to the monarch himself. But the attachment subsisting between these inseparable allies was one day suddenly dissolved over a de- canter of unusually potent hydromel ; and a sabre-cut on the head of either, demon- strated, alas ! the fleeting and unstable nature of all sublunary friendship. As each evening closed, the nobility were to be seen streaming from the royal ban- quet, supported upon their ambling mules by a host of armed and not very sober re- tainers. A tribe of ragged pages bringing messages from the palace, accidentally en- tered at the same time to report the sub«J stance of the conversation, although manyl of the illustrious visitors were absolutely- inarticulate. Lances were hurled at a tar- get to the imminent peril of all spectators ; and the neck of the vanquished having been duly trampled under foot, according to the ancient Oriental form of military triumph, all who anticipated any d'fficulty in reaching their own abodes, staggered into the tent of the Gyptzis to laugh at the mad pranks of Daghie,the obsequious court mmm THE COURT BUFFOON—" THE LONG GUNMAN." 231 buffoon, and the flower of Abyssinian min- strelsy. Decked by the favor of the monarch in a shining silver sword, the Merry Andrew, fiddle in hand, came scraping and chanting his way homeward, with eyes sufficiently inflamed to indicate where he had been dining. Kissing the earth as he took his seat in the tent, amid many antics, grima- ces, and inquiries, he proceeded to elicit from the instrument, imitations of the hu- man voice under various intonations of joy, surprise, and sorrow ; and the host of re- tainers, crowding round the doors with shoulders bared, next shouted their appro- val to some travestie of the wild Adel slo- gan, or joined their voices in full chorus to swell the Amhara death triumph, or this the pibroch of the Nile : " The sword is burning for the fight, And gleams like rays of silver light ; Let thoughts of fear enthral the slave — Rouse to the strife, ye Gojam brave. " Clustering they come, the Turkish rout Ring back on high the Amhara shout ; For honor, home, or glorious grave — Rouse to the strife, ye Gojam brave. " The sword of Corfu leads the war, And dastard spirits quail afar ; None here to pity, none to save — Rouse to the strife, ye Gojam brave. " Our swords in tint shall soon outvie Yon scabbard of the crimson dye, And overhead shall ruddy wave — Rouse to the strife, ye Gojam brave. " Red as their belts their blood shall flow, Deep as the hue of sunset glow ; Mercy to none who mercy crave — Rouse to the strife, ye Gojam brave." Pages and Abigails were hourly in at- tendance, on the part of their royal master or mistress, with some rubbish from the palace, which was carefully removed from its red and yellow basket of Gurague grass, divested of all its numerous wrappers, and confidentially exhibited with an inquiry, sotto voce, " whether more of the same de- scription was not to be obtained ?" The outcry raised for detonating caps was weari- some and incessant ; for although it was notorious that the royal magazines boasted a hoard sufficient to answer the utmost demand of at least three generations, the king was ever apprehensive of bankruptcy, in event of a quarrel with the Ada'iel, " be- cause his own people knew not the road beyond the world of waters." Thus it happened that Kidana Wold, the long gun- man, who had charge of the royal armory, received private instructions to look in at the residency at least twice a week, with a inamalacha for fifty or a hundred tezabs, J nd regularly once a month to aver that he had been so unfortunate as to drop from his girdle another box of his majesty's pa- tent anti-corrosives — a loss which, unless timely repaired, must inevitably result in the forfeiture of liberty. " The Gaita has discovered my carelessness," he would add, with tears in his eyes, " and, by Mary ! if you don't help me immediately, I shall be sent to Goncho." Treble. strong canister gunpowder was also high in demand, its superiority over the manufacture of Shoa being admitted even by the maker. But the sulphur monopoly remained as hereto- fore most jealously guarded. The ill-starred individual who had charge of the mines on the frontier, in an evil hour accepted silver for a lump of the purified commodity, which was required for the cure of applicants having the beggar's disease ; and spies re- porting the peculation, the delinquent was condemned to perpetual labor in the hot valleys of Giddem. This convict was accompanied in his exile by a shrewd lad, who had been de- tected at the Bool Worki market in giving circulation to two counterfeit dollars. Weeks of incessant toil had enabled him to produce, out of a crude lump of pewter, very creditable imitations of the coinage of Maria Theresa. Every spot and letter had been most closely represented with a punch and file, and the ingenious artist, naturally enough, seemed vastly mortified at the un- toward consequences of his labor. " Tell me," inquired the king, as the culprit was being removed, " how is that machine made which in your country pours out the silver crowns like a shower of rain ?" Architecture now occupied a full share of the royal brain. The hand corn-mills presented by the British Government had been erected within the palace walls, and slaves were turning the wheels with un- ceasing diligence. " Demetrius the Ar- menian made a machine to grind corn," exclaimed his majesty in a transport of delight, as the flour streamed upon the floor ; " and although it cost my people a year of hard labor to construct, it was use- less when finished, because the priests de- clared it to be the devil's work, and cursed the bread. But may Sahela Selassie die ! These engines are the invention of clever heads. Now I will build a bridge over the Bereza and you shall give me your ad- vice." Early the ensuing morning the chief smith was accordingly in attendance with hammer and tongs ; and " when the sun said hot," the pious monarch, having first paid his orisons in the church of the Trinity, proceeded, with all suitable cunning, to plan the projected edifice beneath a fortunate 232 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. horoscope. Twelve waterways were traced with stones under his skilful superinten- dence on a site selected after infinite dis- cussion ; and in five minutes a train of slaves from the establishment at Debra Berhan, were heaping together piles of loose boulders to serve as piers. Splinters of wood connected the roadway, and in three days the structure was complete, its appearance giving promise of what actual- ly happened — demolition within as many short hours, on the very first violent fresh to which the river is subject during the annual rains. But predictions of the impending catas- trophe were received with an incredulous shake of the head ; and the advice that or- ders should be issued to the governors on the Nile to keep a vigilant look out for the upper timber on their voyage down to Egypt, was followed by a good-humored laugh and a playful tap on the shoulder of the audacious foreigner, who, to the horror and amazement of the obsequious courtiers, had thus ventured to speak his mind to the despot. In vain was it proposed to construct a bridge upon arches which might defy the impetuosity of the torrent. " All my subjects are asses," retorted his majesty : " they are idle and lazy, and de- void of understanding. There is not one that will consent to labor, no, not one ; and if through your means they should be compelled to perform the task, they would weep, and invoke curses on the name of the Gyptzis. Your corn mills are approved, because they save the women trouble, but by the shades of my ancestors ! — a bridge " Here all sense of the decorum due to the sceptre was forgotten for the mo- ment, and the monarch whistled aloud. And the king was right. Weaving ex- cepted, which in so cold a climate is an art indispensable to existence, the people of Shoa can hardly be said to practice any manufacture. The raw cotton, which is as cheap as it is excellent and abundant, is by him who would be clad, handed over with a number of qmoles proportioned to the size of the cloth required. A common bow is used to spread the wool ; and the spinning jenny being unknown, the thread is twisted by means of the ancient spin- dle, to which motion is imparted Sy a rapid pressure betwixt the left palm and the de- nuded thigh, while the right hand is sim- ultaneously carried upward for the purpose of " roving." Time is here held of no account ; and female labor having supplied the want of machinery in these prelimina- ry operations, the twist is transferred to a rude locomotive loom, and a warm dura- ble mantle is produced with the aid only of a simple shuttle. British commerce has not only forced its way, but created markets and custom- ers in many a wilder and more inaccessi- ble portion of the globe than Christian Abyssinia, and its operation promises to open the only means of improvement and civilization. Even in the absence of wa- ter carriage, the experience of many years has proved that the living ship of the de- sert is a machine of transport adequate to the most important traffic ; and, if once established, that traffic would, in a few years, doubtless bind both people and ru- ler in the strongest chains of personal in- terest. A commercial convention betwixt Great Britain and Shoa was a subject that had been frequently adverted to ; and his ma- jesty had shaken his head when first as- sured that five hundred pair of hands, ef- ficiently employed at the loom, would bring into his country more permanent wealth than ten thousand warriors bearing spear and shield. But he had gradually begun to comprehend how commerce, equitably conducted, might prove a truer source of wealth than forays into the territories of the heathen. This conviction resulted in the expression of his desire, that certain articles agreed upon might be drawn up on parchment, and presented for signature, which had accordingly been done ; and the day fixed for the return of the embassy to Ankober was appointed for the public ratification of the document by the annex- ure thereto of the royal hand and seal. Nobles and captains thronged the court- yard of the palace at Angollala, and the king reclined on the throne in the attic chamber. A highly illuminated sheet, surmounted on the one side by the Holy Trinity — the device invariably employed as the arms of Shoa — and on the other by the royal achievement of England, was formally presented, and the sixteen arti- cles of the convention in Amharic and English, read, commented upon, and fully approved. They involved the sacrifice of arbitrary appropriation by the crown of the property of foreigners dying in the coun- try, the abrogation of the despotic in- 1 terdiction, which had from time immemo- rial precluded the purchase or display of costly goods by the subject, and the re- moval of penal restrictions upon voluntary movement within and beyond the kingdom, which formed a modification of the obso- lete national maxim, " never to permit the stranger who had once entered, to depart from Abyssinia." All of those evils had TREATY SIGNED— THE QUEEN OF SHEBA. 233 heretofore been in full force ; but his ma- jesty unhesitatingly declared his determi- nation to annul them for the good of his people. Tekla Mariam, the royal notary, kneel- ing, held the upper part of the unrolled scroll upon the state cushion, and the king taking the proffered pen, inscribed after the words " Done and concluded at Angollala, the Galla capital of Shoa, in token whereof we have hereunto set our hand and seal, Sahela Selassie, who is the Negoos of Shoa, Efat, and the Galla." The imperial signet, a cross encircled by the word " Jesus," was then attached by the scribe in presence of the church, the dech agafari, the governor of Morat, and three other functionaries who were sum- moned into the alcove for the purpose. " You have loaded me with costly pres- ents," exclaimed the monarch as he re- turned the deed : " the raiment that I wear, the throne whereon I sit, the various ca- riosities in my storehouses, and the mus- kets which hang around the great hall, are all from your country. What have I to give in return for such wealth ? My kingdom is as nothing." CHAPTER XCI. • THE HOUSE OF SOLOMON. Ethiopia is the classical appellation for Abyssinia, or Habesh, the most ancient as well as the greatest monarchy in Africa. It is by the latter title that the inhabitants themselves, and all their circumjacent neighbors, still distinguish the highlands included between Nubia and the sources of the blue Nile ; and the limits of the Christian empire, g^-erned by the sove- reigns of Axum, formerly extended over wide tracts of country, now peopled by heathen and stranger nations. . The early history of Habesh is lost in the fogs of fable. In the Chronicles styled Kebra za Negest, " the glory of the kings," a romance which pretends to be a faithful repository of the past, Ittopia is modestly stated to have divided with Romia the do- minion of the world, received in direct in- heritance from Adam. " Their rulers were both descended from Shem, who was nom- inated the lineal descendant of Noah, whence all the globe north of Jerusalem belonged unto the former, and all south to the latter !" This record is believed to have been dis- covered in the church of St. Sophia : and 16 it claims for the present royal family de- scent from the Queen of Sheba, whose visit to King Solomon is stated to have placed the sceptre in the hands of the tribe of Judah, with whom it has remained un- til the present day ; and from the peasant to the despot this'iegend is firmly believed by every native of Abyssinia. " The Queen of Ethiopia," saith the Chronicle, " whose name was Maqueda, had heard from the merchant Tamerin of the wisdom and glory of King Solomon ; and resolving to visit him in his own country, she proceeded to the land of Israel with all the rich presents that her empire could afford." After a season the royal lady returned ; and her sou Menilek, the result of her visit to the greatest potentate of the age, was born, and in due time transmitted to his august sire. The young prince was duly instructed in all the mysteries of Jewish law and science, and being anointed king under the name of David, he was returned to his native land, escorted by a large suite of the nobles of Israel, and a band of her most learned elders under the direction of Ascarias, the son of Zadok the high priest. The gates of the temple of Jerusalem were left unguarded ; and the doors mir- aculously opened in order that the holy ark of Zion, and the tables of the law, might without difficulty be stolen and car- ried away. The journey was prosperously performed, and the queen-mother, on re- signing the reins of authority to her son, at her death, about nine hundred and sev- enty years before the birth of Christ, caus- ed a solemn obligation to be sworn by all, that henceforward no female should hold sway in the land ; and that those princes of the blood royal upon whom the crown did not devolve, should, until the succes- sion opened to them, or during the natural term of existence, be kept close prisoners on a lofty mountain ; a cruel and despotic enactment, which, through a long succes- sion of ages, was jealously observed. The Emperor of Ethiopia early adopted the title of negoos, or negash ; and the coast of the Indian ocean toward Sofala, was held by his deputy with the style of Bahr Negash, " the king of the sea," — a vicegerent with the same title, governing Yemen, which from the earliest time down to the Mohammadan conquest of Arabia, belonged to Abyssinia. The family of Menilek ibn Hakim are stated in the Ke- bra za Negest, to have worn the crown in uninterrupted felicity until the year of our Lord 960, when an event occurred which ■■ 234 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. nearly obliterated that dynasty, and first spread anarchy, violence, and oppression, throughout the once-happy realm. Christianity became the national religion of Abyssinia in the beginning of the fourth century. The Falashas, descendants of the Jews, who are believed to have accom- panied Menilek from Jerusalem, had mean- while waxed extremely powerful, and re- fusing to abandon the faith of their fore- fathers, they now declared independence. Electing a sovereign of their own creed, they took possession of the almost impreg- nable mountain fastnesses of Simien, where their numbers were augmented by con- tinual accessions from the Jews, who were expelled from Palestine and from Arabia. Under the constant titles of Gideon and Judith, a succession of kings and queens held a limited sway until, in the middle of the tenth century, the Princess Esther, styled, by the Amhara, Issat, which signi- fies " fire," a woman of extraordinary beauty and talent, conceived the design of sub- verting the religion, and with it the exist- ing order of succession in the empire. A fatal epidemic had swept off the emperor, and spread desolation through court and capital. Del Naad, who had been nomi- nated to the crown, was of tender years : and Esther, deeming no opportunity more favorable, surprised the rock Damo, on which, by virtue of the existing statute, the other scions of the royal house were confined, and having massacred the whole, five hundred in number, proclaimed herself the queen over Abyssinia. The sole surviving prince of his race was hurried by the Amhara nobility into the dis- tant and loyal province of Shoa ; and the reins of government passed into the hands of a Christian family of Lasta, styled Ze- gue, with whom they remained until the thirteenth century. During the adminis- tration of Naakweto Laab, the last of this dynasty, Tekla Haimanot the monk, a na- tive of Abyssinia, was created aboon.* He had previously founded in Shoa the celebra- ted monastery of Debra Libanos, and was a man celebrated alike for the purity of his life, the soundness of his understanding, and his devotion to his- country. Obtain- ing extraordinary influence over the mind of the king, he prevailed upon him, for con- science-sake, to resign a crown which could never be purified from the stain of usurpa- tion. The banished line of Solomon, con- tent with the dominion of Shoa, had made no effort toward the recovery of their an- cient boundaries ; but by a treaty now con- * This is the title of the primate of Ethiopia. eluded, Yekweno Amlak was restored to the throne of his ancestors; Naakweto Laab retaining only Lasta in perpetual in- dependence, with the golden stool, the sil- ver kettle-drums, and other insignia of royalty, while one third of the realm was permanently ceded to the primate for the maintenance of his ecclesiastical dignity, and for the support of the clergy, convents, and churches. This was styled the " Era of Partition ;" and it formed a stipulation that the functions of archbishop should in future be vested in none save a Copt, or- dained from Cairo by the chair of St. Mark. CHAPTER XCII. THE LINEAGE OF SHOA. Thus affairs continued until the six- teenth century, when the invasion of Mo- hamirvau Graan led to the total dismember- ment ol the Ethiopic empire ; and Shoa, among -otr>er of the richest provinces, was overrun and colonized by the Galla hordes. Nebla Dengel, the emperor of Gondar, fell by the hand of the Moslem conqueror. Fa- ris, the son of Dilbonach, by a daughter of the house of Solomon, held a ras-ship under the crown, in the strong hold of Dair. and from his son Sumbellete sprang Na- gasi, the first monarch of Efat. who was born at Amad Washa, the capital of Agam- cha, and a century and a half ago held his capital in Mans. Prior to the conquest of that province, which was followed by the gradual subjugation of Shoa and its pres-. ent dependencies, this prince occupied a lofty fortress in the Yedjow country, where some of his descendants still remain. From it are visible the high and impregnable mounts Ambasel and«£reshama ; the latter of which fastnesses, in the more remote pe- riods of Ethiopic splendor, had served as a place of confinement for the younger broth- ers of the reigning emperor ; while the , former is in the hands of an independent ruler, whose ancestress becoming the mis- tress of the Christian governor, the father of the Delilah contrived, during the cele- bration of her nuptials, to surprise the gar- rison, and put every man to the sword. Nagasi repaired in due time to Gondar, to be formally invested by the emperor; but after receivingatthe royal hands twelve " nugareets," he died suddenly. To one of his four sons he bequeathed on his death- bed a shield, to a second a spear, to a third a ring, and to Sabastiye, his favorite child, a war-steed which he had always ridden to . SHADOW EMPEROR OF GONDAR. 235 combat. The youths were summoned to court in order that they might receive their legacies ; and on opening an amulet at- tached to the horse's neck, it was found to contain the will and testament of the de- ceased, nominating Sebastiye the succes- sor to his possessions. This prince reigned twenty-five years, and was succeeded by Abiye, his eldest son, who after fifteen years was gathered to his fathers at Aramba, which he had wrested from the Areeo Galla. Emmaha Yasoos, who succeeded next, and reigned thirty- two years, introduced several matchlocks from Gondar, conquered Ankober, and re- moved his capital thither from Dokaket. At the period of his accession, the sorcer- ers predicted that if one Arkaradis should be appointed minister, the empire would be doubled. Search was accordingly made throughout the realm, but# mendicant was the sole individual of that name who could be found. He was duly inducted into of- fice ; and his first step was to revive among the circumjacent Galla an ancient prophe- cy, that when fires should be seen on the summits of the three loftiest peaks of the great barrier range, their possessions wouW be overrun by the Christians. After rite lapse of a few months, Arkaradis caused beacon-fires to be kindled during tb^ night on the crests of Kondie, Ank^oer, and Mamrat ; upon beholding whbfi many of the heathen fled, and, without a blow being struck, sundry districts were appended to Shoa. Asfa Woosen, gran&ire to'the reigning monarch, succeeded to his father Emmaha Yasoos, and reigned thirty-three and a half years. Of forty-eight male children he was the bravest. He was a great Nimrod, and an unparalleled warrior, slaying three hun- dred Pao»ns with his own spear from the back of his favorite war-steed Amadoo. Among many other despotic laws enacted during his reign, was one prohibiting the manufacture of hydromel by the subject. Three great rebellions threatened the sta- bility of his empire, which had now shaken off all allegiance to Gondar, but each in turn was quelled by his personal valor. The last insurrection was headed by Woo- sen Suggud, the heir-apparent. In a pitch- ed battle the youth was wounded by the hand of his father, taken prisoner, and im- mured during the term of the monarch's life. During the last fifteen years of his reign, Asfa Woosen was totally blind. It is fully believed that the sight of one eye was destroyed by Thavanan, as already narrated in the legend of " the tormentor," and that one of the royal concubines, whom 16* the sorcerer had spirited away, destroyed the other shortly afterward, by means of a powerful spell imparted by her paramour. Since the commencement of the present century the custom of consigning to a dun- geon the brothers and kindred of the reign- ing monarch has grown into desuetude in Northern Abyssinia. The princes of the blocd royal now wander over the country unmolested and unheeded, attaching them- selves to any chief who may be w-tfiing to extend countenance and support, and hold- ing themselves at his disposal in the event of his gaining ascendencj over his rivals, and requiring a titular emperor to perform the indispensable ceremony of nominating a ras. But the farm is still retained, of placing the crown upon the brows of a descendant of tie ancient line of Solomon, who is contend to be a mere puppet in the hands of thr temporary minister ; and en- joying a stipend of three hundred dollars per ann*m, and the paltry revenues accru- ing fWm the tolls of the hebdomadal mar- ket Ai the capital, he remains a prisoner u/on parole in his palace at Gondar. CHAPTER XCIII. THE MONARCH AND THE COURT. Sahela Selassie, " the clemency of the Trinity," seventh king of Shoa whose sur- name is Menilek, was twelve years of age when the assassination of Woosen Suggud called him from a monastery to the throne, and placed in his hands the reins of despotic government over a wild Christian nation. His sire had enjoyed a brief, but exceed- ingly active reign of four and a half years, during which he extended his empire far beyond the limits bequeathe^ to him by Asfa Woosen — made conquests in the south to the mountains of Gar** Gorphoo, and in the west to the Nile. The most despotic measures marked Ais transient but iron rule ; and had be survived, the expecta- tions formed o^him would in all probability have been realized, and he would have be- come monarch of all Abyssinia. But the nation groaned under his oppression ; and after v series of the harshest acts, induced by visits in disguise, like those of Haroun A?faschid the great caliph of Bagdad, to me houses of his subjects, and to places of public resort, a Shankela slave, whom he had provoked by ill usage, turned upon his royal master, and having slain him with a sword, set fire to the pilace at Kondie, which was burned to the ground ; and the 236 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. wealth amassed in many earthen jars, melt- ed, according to the tradition, into a liquid stream of mingled silver and gold, which flowed over the mountain side. In Shoa as in other savage countries the tidings of the dissolution of the monarch, unless timely concealed, spread like light- ning to the farthest extremities of the king- dom, and become a signal for rapine, anar- chy, and murder, which rage unrestrained during the continuance of the interregnum. Every individual throughout the realm deems himself at full liberty to act accord- ing to the bent cf his own vicious inclina- tions — to perpetrate every atrocity, and to indulge in the gratis cation of every re- vengeful and licentious passion, without fear of retribution or of punishment ; and it being perfectly understood that there exists neither law nor rult until the new sovereign shall have been proclaimed, the I kingless land for a season rum rivers of blood. Fearful was the tragedj that fol- ! lowed the assassination of Woosen b-iggud. I The royal family residing at Ankobei". and i the heir-apparent at a still greater distance from Kondie. there ensued a scene of anai- | chy and confusion which it would be diffi- ; cult to describe, and at DebraLibanos alone there fell no fewer than eight hundred vic- tims to private animosity, of whose murder no account was ever taken. The eyes of the monarch being closed in death, the minister styled dech aga- fari, "the introducer through the door," proceeds to the inauguration of the suc- cessor, who, unless some other arrange- ment shall have been willed, is usually the heir-apparent. Presented to the senators and to the inmates of the palace, the herald proclaims aloud, " We have reason to mourn, and also to rejoice ; for our old father is dead, but we have found a new one." The accession thus declared, the king is invested with the robes of state, and taking seat upon the throne, the public officers first in order, and then the people, offer homage, and bovy before his footstool. General mourning is invariably observed during the seven days wMch follow the promulgation of the national calamity. Men, women, and children evince their grief by tearing the hair, scarifying the temples with the nails, and casting them- selves sobbing and screaming upoi>. the ground — the good qualities of the deceased being extolled the while. But the chief mourners on the melancholy occasion, are those princes of the blood-royal who are affected by the barbarous practice handed down from the earliest periods of Abyssin- ian history ; for in the kingdom of Shoa, revolutionary projects against the crown have invariably been anticipated, by con- signing the uncles and brothers of the sove- reign to a subterranean dungeon, where they pass the remainder of their days in the elaborate carving of harps and orna- ments of ivory. Widely different from that of the aspiring Rasselas is the lot of these pining members of the dynasty of Shoa. No happy valley is theirs, whom a barbarous policy has from time immemorial condemned thus to linger in hopeless imprisonment during the rem- nant of their sublunary pilgrimage, unless the demise of the despot without issue should, peradventure, call some one of the captives from the dank vault to the throne. Food, with the scanty materials for amuse- ment and occupation, are indeed allowed, together with permission to breathe the air of heaven, after the sun has set, upon their own green hills. But no domestic tie links them to the society from which they are immured — no sympathy of wife or child can ever, by a word of kindness, alleviate their lonely condition. The bonds of re- lationship have been rudely snapped asun- der, and the very name of brother is the stern curse of those whose only crime is then affinity to the monarch. Sev^n princes of the blood-royal were inmates if the vaults of Goncho on the ar- rival of the British embassy in Shoa. The legitimate iss>ue male of the reigning sove- reign has fortunately been limited to two ; but it was not ttie less melancholy to re- flect, that one or other of these interesting youths must, in all human probability, drag out the noon and evening of his days with- in the walls of that dismal dungeon, where so many have sunk into the grave unre- corded and unpitied. The crown, although hereditary in the house of Solomon, is elective by will at each decease, and the eldest born can assert no exclusive title to succession by right of primogeniture. Bashakh Woorud, " go down if you like," is an ominous title enough to distinguish the heir-apparent to the throne. Better known by his Christian appellation of Hai- loo Mulakoot, and now in his sixteenth year, he has by his royal sire been permit- ted to accompany the army into the field, when he slew some of the Galla with his own hand ; but entertaining a predilection for the church, he is educating in the mon- astery of Loza ; while his brother, Seifa Selassie, "the sword of the Trinity," who is three or four years younger, is the fa- vorite of his father, and may be regarded as the heir-presumptive. In accordance with the custom of the QUEEN BESABESH— THE ROYAL HAREM. 237 land, this prince is also secluded in a mon- astery at Medak, under the Alaka Amda Zion. In addition to a eunuch and a nurse, each of the royal scions is attended by guardians, whose office it is to prevent his playing- truant or creating disturbances in the kingdom. They are trained to equestrian and warlike exercises, and to the use of the shield and spear ; and are made to attend divine service, to fast, to repeat their prayers, and to peruse the psalms at night. Their course of educa- tion differs little from that of other Abys- sinian youths, than whom they are even more under monkish influence. The study of the Gebata Hawariat, or " table of the apostles," which comprises the seven epis- tles of Peter, John, James, and Jude, and the acquisition of the Psalter by heart, is followed by the perusal of the Revelations, the epistles of St. Paul, and the gospels — the histories of the Holy Virgin, of Saints George and Michael, Saint Tekla Haima- not, and others, completing the course. Few of the priesthood understand the art of writing, and all regard the exercise of the pen as shameful and derogatory. The royal princes, therefore, stand little chance of instruction in this branch of education, and their acquaintance with the Abyssinian code of jurisprudence must depend also upon the erudition of their preceptors. The strictest discipline is enforced ; disobedi- ence is punished by bonds and corporal chastisement, which latter the king causes to be inflicted in his presence ; and fully imbued with the conviction, that to " spare the rod is to spoil the child," his majesty occasionally corrects the delinquent with his own hands. Queen Besabesh — " thou hast multi- plied " — the mother of the young princes, and also of four princesses, is the daughter of the last independent, ruler of Morabeitie. She was relict of Tekla Georgis, a com- moner of Shoa ; and although not perma- nently resident in the palace, is much be- loved by Sahela Selassie. Five hundred concubines complete the royal harem, of whom seven reside under the palace roof, thirteen in the immediate outskirts, and the residue in various parts of the empire. By these ladies, the king has a numerous progeny ; the males, who are not obnox- ious to imprisonment on a new accession, being created governors of provinces, while the illegitimate daughters are bestowed in marriage upon whomsoever his despotic majesty may think proper to select among the nobles and magnates of the land. The ceremony of taking into the royal harem a concubine of rank, which meas- ure is usually connected with some polit- ical object, consists in an interchange of presents between the monarch and the pa- rents of the damsel. Chamie, the Galla queen of Moolo Falada, near the Nile, pre- sented with her daughter, who occupies a niche in the harem, a dower consisting of two hundred milch cows, one hundred teams of oxen with ploughs, a number of horses, and many slaves of both sexes, gdssela skins, and other choice peltries, and five hundred vessels of virgin honey, with twelve cats to watch over and protect them from the inroads of the mice. Mo- hammadans and Pagans are compelled, after the formation of the royal alliance, to embrace the Christianity of Ethiopia ; but that fidelity is far from being a conse- quence of the conversion has been evinced in numerous disgraceful instances, the not least notorious of which involves the repu- tation and the health of one who long enjoy- ed a most exalted place in the king's affec- tions — a sister of Wulasma Mohammad. Throughout intra-tropical Africa the nugareet, or kettle-drum, forms the em- blem of power, as does the sceptre in other realms. Appointments, edicts, and proclamations*, roll with its notes to the ears of the attentive nation of Shoa. It accompanies all forays and campaigns, is the symbol of investiture, and even the Church is controlled by its echoes rever- berating from the palace hill. The trum- pet is also a concomitant on state occa- sions, when two large crimson debaboch, or aftabgirs, screen the royal person. The attire of Sahela Selassie, although usual- ly plain and unassuming, is, on certain pageants, more imposing, and is then as- sisted by all the gold and tinsel that the wardrobe can boast. The precious metal, for which he entertains a vast affection, forming his exclusive prerogative, is dis- played in massive bracelets and rings, and in the embroidery with which the tight vest of green silk is profusely loaded, although partially hidden beneath the enveloping robe of Abyssinia. His majesty's crown is an elegantly embossed tiara, with nu- merous chains hanging in gorgeous clus- ters around the brow, and surmounted by the imperial plume of white egret feathers. But save on the Saturday in Passion week, during a solemn assembly held in the palace court, which is then -decked out with carpets, and velvets, and gay- cloths, when the priests rehearse the mili- tary achievements of the monarch, and the gathered population respond with the loud hum of approbation — on the great an- nual review at the feast of Maskal, and the 298 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. triumphal return from the foray against the heathen Galla — there is little pomp or pageant to be witnessed at the present day. Badges and honorary distinctions, however, still continue to be conferred up- on the brave in war. The high-sounding titles of household officers are yet scru- pulously retained ; and these, with the embossed shield, the silver sword, the gauntlet, the bracelet, the armlet, and the glittering akodama, attest the presence at the court of Shoa of the last remnant of the ancient, but faded, grandeur of the proud emperors of Ethiopia. CHAPTER XCIV. THE REIGNING DESPOT. A more singular contrast of good ana evil was perhaps never presented than in the person and administration of the Chris- tian despot. Avarice, suspicion, caprice, duplicity, and superstition, appear to form the basis of his chequered character, and his every act exhibits a portion of mean- ness and selfishness, linked with a desire to appear munificent. Yet are these radi- cally bad ingredients tempereH and con- cealed by many amiable and excellent qual- ities. His virtues are many as they are conspicuous : his faults entail harm chiefly upon himself; and the appropriation of the greater portion of his hours might be held up as a worthy pattern for imitation. During the entire forenoon of every day in the week, the Sabbath and Saturday ex- cepted, which latter, as a remnant of Jew- ish religion, is universally reverenced, is he engaged in public affairs — in trying ap- peals, and in deciding suits which are Drought from all quarters of his dominions. Notwithstanding the impediments offered by a weak constitution, and by many bod- ily infirmities prematurely brought on by excess, he leads a life of constant activity, and, both as respects his public and his private avocations, stands greatly distin- guished above other Abyssinian rulers, who too justly incur the reproach of idle- ness and perpetual debauchery. After the religious performance of his matin devotions, the king inspects his sta- bles and workshops, bestows charity upon the assembled poor, dispatches couriers, and accords private audiences of impor- tance. Then reclining in state upon the throne, he listens for hours to all appeals brought against the decision of his judges, and adjusts in public the tangled disDUtes and controversies of his subjects. Here access is easy. Sahela Selassie listens to all, foreigners or natives, men and women, rich and poor. Every one possesses the right to appear before him, and boldly to explain the nature of his case ; and al- though the established usage of the land compels the subject to prostrate himself, and to pay rather adoration than respect, yet may he urge his complaint without the least hesitation or timidity. Judgment is always prompt, and generally correct ; nor will the observer be less struck with the calmness and placidity that mark the royal demeanor in the midst of the most boister- ous discussions, than at the method and perspicuity with which such manifold af- fairs are disposed of ; and while thus re- ceiving the most favorable impression of his majesty's capacity for the transaction of business, might even draw a parallel be- tween his demeanor and that of many more civilized monarchs, which would be flatter- ing to the semi-barbarous ruler of Shoa. At three o'clock the king proceeds to dine alone, and no sooner is the royal ap- petite appeased than the doors are thrown open, and the long table in the great ban- queting-hall is crowded with the most dis- tinguished warriors and guests. Harpers and fiddlers perform during the entire en- tertainment, and singers lift up their voices in praise of the munificence and liberality of their sovereign, who, during all this scene of confusion and turmoil, still con- tinues to peruse letters or to issue instruc- tions, until the board has been thrice re- plenished and as often cleared, and until all of a certain rank have freely partaken of his hospitality. At five he retires with a few of those who enjoy the largest share of intimacy, to the private apartments. Prayers and potent liquors fill up the even- ing hours, and the company depart, leaving the favorite page who is made the bearer of the royal commands. Midnight calls his majesty from his couch to the perusal of psalms and sacred writings. A band of sturdy priests in the antechamber continue during the livelong night to chant a noisy chorus of hymns to preserve his slumbers from the influence of evil spirits or apparitions, and daylight brings a repetition of the busy scene, which is only diversified by exercise on horseback, when business and the fickle sky will permit. Making excursions with from four to five hundred mounted follow- ers, it is then his wont to sit for hours on the splashy banks of some sequestered brook, listening to the soft murmur of the waters, conversing familiarly with those w mmmm INFLUENCE OF THE CHURCH. 239 about him, witnessing the exercise of his stud, and devoting every leisure moment to the numerous petitioners who crowd with complaints around the royal person. Dreading the fate of his father, the mon- arch never stirs from his threshold unpro- vided with a pistol concealed under his girdle along with his favorite amulet, in which he reposes implicit faith and reliance. His couch is nightly surrounded by tried and trusty warriors, endeared to his person by munificence displayed to no other class of his subjects, while the gates of the palace are barred after the going down of the sun, and stoutly guarded during the continuance of the nocturnal hours. The principal officers of the royal house- hold, and those most confided in by the suspicious monarch, are the eunuchs. Ayto Baimoot, their late chief, was spe- cially charged with the royal harem in all its branches, as well as with the establish- ment of slaves. Long faithfully attached to his indulgent master, he was, while he lived, the king's only intimate counsellor, and was never separated from his person. Next in order is the herald, or dech agafari, who, in addition to the important duties already detailed, is the channel through whom all new appointments by the crown and all royal edicts and procla- mations are published to the nation. Armed with a rod of green rushes, he ushers into the presence-chamber all officials, stran- gers, and visitors, introducing at the ap- pointed time those who have complaints or representations to lay at the footstool of the throne. He is the alaka of all who have any boon to crave, and is in charge of the host of pages and younger sons of the nobility who attend upon the king — is in general master of the ceremonies on oc- casions of state or pageant, and introduces guests who may be invited to the banquet. The keys of the royal library are in the custody of the chief of the church, the Alaka Wolda Georgis, a layman and a soldier, who was elevated to the exalted post he occupies in direct violation of the established usage of the country. The office of chief smith and alaka of all the tabiban, " wise people," or handicraftsmen, throughout the realm, and of body physi- cian, are concentrated in the person of Ayto Habti, who must freely partake of all drugs that are to be administered to the king, and, with the commander-in-chief of the body-guard, the master of the horse, and the dwarf father-confessor, be in con- stant attendance upon his majesty. As well from religious as from worldly motives, Sahela Selassie entertains a vast number of pensioners, who receive dirgo, or daily rations, in various proportions — some being limited to dry bread, while others extend to mead, the greatest luxury which the country can afford. The dis- tribution of this maintenance comes exclu- sively within the province of the purveyor- general, the food being prepared in the royal kitchen by the numerous slaves, who, shame to the Christian monarch, compose the entire household establish- ment. All foreigners and visitors receive it, and, in addition to about one thousand of this class, there are many besides who possess the privilege of always dining at the royal table. Making munificent donations to churches and monasteries, the king stands in high odor with the fanatic clergy, and thus en- joys the advantage of their influence over the priest-ridden population, whom he rules principally through the church ; and, never undertaking any project without consult- ing some of its members, is in turn much swayed by their exhortations, prophecies, dreams, and visions. Strongly attached to the Christianity of Ethiopia, which abounds in Jewish prejudices, he is still far from being intolerant. According to the best of his uncultivated ideas he encourages let- ters, and spends considerable sums of money in collecting ancient manuscripts. Possessing natural talents and shrewdness, which have been improved by the rudi- ments of education, he rules his hereditary empire with the greatest tact and advan- tage ; and might, had his energies been properly directed, have shone one of the greatest potentates that ever wielded the sceptre in the now disorganized empire. Were the active life of Sahela Selassie guided by superior principles — could he be brought to despise petty things, and to sink the details of unimportant affairs in matters of the greatest moment — how wealthy and powerful a monarch might he not still be- come ! He would have time at command to plan truly royal projects ; and, possessed as he is of means the most ample, would find leisure to carry through his designs. Ambitious, ever making new conquests, and, like other rulers of Abyssinia, enter- taining no disinclination to be predominant, his mind is yet filled with trifles, and not sufficiently expanded to mature a plan of operations upon an extended scale. Pre- cluded by want of liberal education, or of intercourse with civilized nations, from calculating events, or looking deep into the page of futurity, he lives in fact for little beyond the present day. Ever busying himself with follies and devising paltry 240 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. schemes of aggrandizement, he neglects matters of vital importance to the stability of his dominion. Old in constitution, though not in years — enfeebled by excess, as well in mind as in body — uncivilized — called early to the throne, and ruling du- ring a long succession of years according to one unvarying system — the dictates of his own caprice — he requires some violent impulse, some imminent and apparent peril to arouse him from the torpor of security, to stimulate his latent energies to greater exertion, and to induce him temporarily to sacrifice a portion of his idolized gold, in order to reap a harvest five hundred fold. From the merciful hand of this unique specimen of absolute authority, the sceptre falls lightly upon the head of the offender. " I have before mine eyes the fear of God, : ' is his frequent exclamation when passing the extreme sentence of the law. Guilty of none of the cruelties or enormities which stain most of the other rulers of Abyssinia — accessible, not easily offended, even tem- pered, patient in his investigations, mild and usually just in his despotism — he is universally adored in his own dominions, rather through love than through fear. The oath by the life of the king is the only binding obligation in the land ; and wise and warlike in his expeditions, he is feared and respected by all the adjacent tribes. Conducting himself with that easy freedom which generally distinguishes conscious superiority, his demeanor is dignified and commanding; and the appearance of the half-civilized Christian savage, who sways the destinies of millions in the heart of heathen Africa would proclaim his high descent even in the courts of Europe. CHAPTER XCV. THE GOVERNMENT AND THE ROYAL HOUSE- HOLD. The hereditary provinces, at this day subject to the negoos of Shoa, are com- prised in a rectangular domain of one hun- dred and fifty by ninety miles, which area is traversed by five systems of mountains, whereof the culminating point divides the basin of the Nile from that of the Hawash. The Christian population of Shoa and Efat are estimated at one million of souls, and that of the Mohammadan and Pagan popu- lation of the numerous dependencies at a million and a half. Independent of the tribute in kind, the royal revenues are said to amount to about eighty or ninety thou- sand German crowns, accruing chiefly from import duties on slaves, foreign mer- chandise, and salt. The annual expenses of the state not exceeding ten thousand dollars, it is probable that his Christian majesty, during his long reign of nearly thirty years, must have amassed consid- erable treasure, which, whatever may be the amount, is carefully deposited under ground, and not lightly estimated by its possessor. Nearly in the centre of the kingdom pre- sides Zenama Work, "the golden rain," relict of Woosen Suggud, and mother of the reigning monarch. The seat of her government, it has already been said, is at Zalla Dingai, " the rolling stone ;" and she rules over nearly the whole of the north- west, or in fact over almost one half of the realm — appropriating in reversion to the crown the entire revenues of her dependent territories, and appointing her own gov- ernors with the royal approval. Judge in her own dominions, her decisions nev ertheless lie under appeal to the throne ; and even as queen-dowager, she is debar- red participation in certain privileges which form the exclusive prerogatives of her son, over whose mind she exerts an influence compared by the people of Shoa to that which they believe the holy Virgin to ex* ercise over the Redeemer. Long tired of the world and of its van- ities, the venerable lady has made numer- ous applications for permission to retire to a convent, and assume the veil, the royal entreaties to the contrary having alone de- layed the execution of the design. Many years barren, she sought the benediction of the wandering " Wato," and her nuptial couch being shortly crowned by the birth of Prince Menilek, the happy event was ascribed to necromantic intervention. Thus the tribe of the soothsayer is to this day left in peaceful occupation of its mountains on the bank of the wooded Hawash, while the destroying hand of the Amhara presses in wrath upon the head of the surrounding heathen. Four hundred governors, styled shoo- mant, are appointed under the crown of Shoa, and these with fifty abagasoch, or guardians of the frontier, literally "fathers of war," corresponding with the margraves of Germany in olden times, conduct the affairs of the kingdom and its dependen- cies. Some few of the appointments are hereditary ; but the majority are purchased by the highest bidder, and the tenure is at best extremely precarious. A governor on his appointment is invested with a silver sword as a badge of office, and is bound to GOVERNORS OF PROVINCES. 241 appear with his contingent of militia, when- soever summoned for military service. His grants are regulated by the amount of his levy ; and as he rises in the royal estima- tion, so he receives badges also for subor- dinates who may have distinguished them- selves by their zeal, activity, or valor. No courtier or great man can, after a long absence, approach the throne empty- handed. Thousands of stern warriors bend down with profound and slavish abasement before the fellow-mortal who presides over their sublunary destinies ; and even the nobles of the land twice prostrate them- selves, and kiss the dust in a manner the most abject and humiliating. All public officers make oblations from time to time in kind ; and the king is besides in the habit of requiring arbitrarily from those in charge of districts, tribute in honey, clari- fied butter, cloth, or whatever else he may happen to require. Weak, and at the same time cunning — suspicious of every one, and placing not the smallest confidence in any of his functionaries — he sometimes precipitates them from affluence into a dungeon, when they believe themselves in the enjoyment of the largest share of favor. Resolved to disgrace a nobleman, Sahela Selassie either sends for, or visits the doomed personage, treats him with marked kindness and condescension, in view to dispel alarm ; and embracing a favorable moment when no resistance can be offered, gives the flat to those in attendance to se- cure their prisoner. If not retained by fees and oblations, governments are constantly forfeited and resold. Frequent changes are also made with the design of counteracting collusion and rebellion. Although the power of the negoos is omnipotent, it is subdivided among all who execute his orders, and lit- tle despots arise in all the numerous gov- ernors of provinces — each actuated by the same desire of being the executor of his own supreme will. Still they bear a heavy responsibility ; and the slightest error in judgment, or, even in the absence of all delinquency, the mere whim of the mon- arch, may involve them in destruction when least anticipated. Accountable for every event, whether probable or improb- able, assiduity ;n the management of af- fairs does not always avail. Talents and bravery are sometimes displayed in vain, and the caprice of the despot may hurl the possessor of both from his high estate to the deepest ruin and disgrace. Armed with the delegated authority of the despot, each governor, enacting the autocrat in his own domains, fashions his habits and privileges after those of his royal master. His fields are cultivated in the same manner ; and he possesses the advantage of being able to extort from the inhabitants, for a very inadequate compen- sation in grain, many days of extra labor in each of the great agricultural opera- tions. A fluctuating tribute, regulated by his will and caprice, is exacted from all land-holders, in kind, to meet the demands of his majesty, who, in addition to an in- auguration fee of from four to six hundred dollars, is, unless voluntary offerings be frequently made, ever sending requisitions for live stock and farm produce. This system falls heavily upon all classes. A governor trusting to his own resources is speedily impoverished ; while he who taxes too roughly is certain to be stripped of au- thority and property, on representation made to the throne. But the Abyssinian is never loth to climb up again whence he has fallen ; and the humbled grandee, although impover- ished and shunned by the servile crowd, strives again to ingratiate himself with the sovereign — frequently succeeds by long and patient attendance, and once more girded with the silver sword of authority, he attains that perilous and giddy pinna- cle, where the weapon of destruction hangs over his head, suspended only by a single hair. The essence of despotism pervading the land to its very core, the negoos is the true God of its adoration. All the best portions of the soil pertain to his majesty, and the life as well as the property of every subject is at his sole and absolute disposal. Every act is. performed with some view to pro- mote his pleasure, and the subject waits on his sovereign will, for favor, preferment, and place. All appointments are at the king's disposal — all rewards and distinc- tions come from the king's hand. In years of famine food itself is alone to be obtained from the royal granaries ; and it is not therefore surprising that those over whom one so- absolute presides should be mean, servile, and cringing, and that they should, in their aspirations after power and place, mould every action of their life according to the despot's will. Concealment of any acquisition, how- soever small and valueless, is invariably visited with loss of office and confiscation of property. Gold forms the exclusive privi- 1 ege of royalty. Personal ornaments and col- ored raiment have been hitherto restricted by the severest sumptuary laws, and none except the highest chiefs and warriors of the land were ever honored by an exemp- 242 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tion from the rule. None, however, of these harsh prohibitions, which have existence under no other government in Abyssinia, owe their origin to the present reign, and all have been enforced during so many generations, that they are now little irk- some to the people. Shoa has hitherto stood exempt from the unceasing endeavors to acquire ascendency on the part of all the various chieftains who divide the sceptre in the north — allied to-day in bonds of the closest amity, the next arrayed in the most bitter animosity. Engaged in perpetual strife, the march of any one prince beyond the border of his own territories proves the signal to the nearest of his neighbors to carry fire and sword into the very heart of his undefend- ed domain ; but although torn by civil war from one extremity to the other, the bond of the ancient Ethiopic empire is still not entirely dissolved ; and notwithstanding that the " king of kings " has dwindled in- to the mere spectre of imperial dignity — is deposed and restored to the throne at the caprice of every predominant ruler — bis name at least is deemed essential to ren- der valid the title of ras, and through the latter, the government of all the dependent provinces of Abyssinia. But herein the king of Shoa forms an exception ; and fortunate it is for his maj- esty as well as for his dominions, that the surrounding Galla tribes, united with natu- ral defences, should have so completely shut him out from participation in the in- testine disturbances which have ravaged and laid waste every other province of this beautiful and once prosperous land. Al- though he propitiates the leader of every party, and pursues a conciliatory policy, it would be in his power to mediate with a high hand for the advantage of all ; yet is it curious to observe with what tenacity the Abyssinians adhere to preconceived opinions. The kingdom of Shoa, which was formerly a portion of the empire, still continues in general estimation to form an integral part thereof; and Sahela Selassie is therefore, but in name only, regarded as a vassal of the puppet emperor of Gondar, notwithstanding that he is, de facto, an in- dependent monarch. CHAPTER XCVI. GALLA DEPENDENCIES IN THE SOUTH. During the reign of Asfa Woosen, grandsire to Sahela Selassie, the independ- ent states of Shoa and Efat were of very inconsiderable extent. Morat, Morabeitie, Giddem, Bulga, and other districts now appended, were at that period distinct gov- ernments, as is now the case in Gurague, where there are more rulers than provinces. It is not therefore surprising, that amid the perpetual quarrels of the Christian princes, the surrounding Galla should have been left in undisturbed possession of the lands which they had wrested from Southern Abyssinia. But no sooner had Asfa Woo- sen subdued King Zeddoo, the son of Jesai- as, the son of Abisag, the son of Masamer, usurper of Morabeitie and Morat, with whom sank also those of inferior preten- sions, than he began with his united forces to make inroads upon the Galla tribes. The unsettled state of the newly-conquer- ed provinces, precluded extensive opera- tions ; and the task of reducing the Pagans to obedience was thus principally bequeath- ed to Woosen Suggud, whose strong arm not only kept in submission the territories conquered by his father, but added greatly to the western limits of Shoa by the acqui- sition of -Moogher on the Nile, and by the conquest of the Abidchu, Woberi, and Gil- Ian, so far south as the mountains of Garra Gorphoo. Conceiving that a youth who had scarce- ly numbered twelve years would be unable to hold them in subjection, the tributary Galla revolted immediately upon the acces- sion of Sahela Selassie. But subsequent events proved that they were mistaken in the estimate formed of the monarch's mili- tary capacity. He vanquished King Hai- loo, who still asserted his dignity in Morat. Having amassed fire-arms from Gondar and Tigre, as well as from the sea-coast of Ta- jura, he was enabled to quell many succes- sive insurrections, and for a number of years was fortunate in the fidelity of the lion-hearted Medoko, who was even more feared than himself by the surrounding Gentiles. He caused all the Galla of the province of Shoa-Meda to be circumcised and baptized ; and having commanded them to wear about their necks the " mateb" or cord of blue silk, to fast, and to eat neither with Mohammad ans nor Pagans, nor to touch meat that has not been killed in the name of the Trinity, they have thenceforth been denominated Christians. Throughout his long reign, it has been the king's favorite project to reunite the scattered remnants of Christian population which still mark the extent of the domin- ions of his forefathers. The countries to the south and southwest have therefore always received the largest share of his majesty's attention, and in those directions ANNUAL FORAYS— BLOOD FEUDS. 243 he has attacked and subdued in succession all the tribes on this side of the Hawash. The Metta, Metcha, Moolo Falada, Becho- Woreb, Becho-Foogook, and Charsa-Da- gha, are all appended to Shoa. Moreover, the royal arms have crossed the Hawash, and to a certain extent accomplished the reduction of the Soddo, of the frontiers of Gurague, of the Karaiyo, Loomi, Jille, and other remote clans. In the north little progress has been made, and many reverses have deterred further attempts upon the wild mountaineers ; but in the northeast the Selmi, the Aboti, and several other tribes previously independent, have been reduced to feudal submission, and by judi- cious management are made to secure the frontier from invasion. But although Sahela Selassie has thus widely extended the limits of his empire, he has adopted no efficient measures to consolidate his conquests. As a contrast between the former and the existing ad- ministration, it is said of the southern Gal- la, " where all was once strength, there is- now nothing save weakness. Of yore tri- bute was paid by all, whereas at the present j day the possession of the dependencies does but entail expense." Three annual expe- ditions made throughout a period of thirty years, for the purpose of collecting the revenues of the crown, have hitherto proved ineffectual to the preservation of perma- nent tranquillity among the tribes subju- gated by his ancestors ; and the Sertie lake, with other morasses, remain monu- ments of the dire disasters which sometimes attend his usually successful arms. He neither erects fortifications, nor does he establish outposts ; and the government being continued in heathen hands, the trib- utary tribes rebel during each rainy sea- son, only to be resubdued as soon as it is over — the insurgents often tendering their renewed allegiance the instant they per- ceive the crimson umbrellas of state, but more frequently delaying until the locust- like army of the Amhara has swept their fair fields, and like the devastating stream from the volcano, has left a smoking desert in its train. Chastised by two or three successful forays, the, chiefs and elders of the rebel- lious and ruined clan, finding the futility of further opposition to the yoke, come in with the tribute exacted, and make feudal submission, whereupon they are suffered to ransom their wives and daughters w T ho have been enslaved. It cannot fail to ap- pear extraordinary, that those who are un- prepared for resistance should occupy their beleaguered abodes one minute after they have become aware of the presence of their ruthless and implacable foes ; but in almost every instance they are in blood feud with all the surrounding tribes of their own na- tion, at whose merciless hands they would experience even worse treatment than at those of the Amhara. Neither, during persecution, could they hope to find an asy- lum among tributary neighbors, with whom they might perchance be on amicable terms, since their reception would inevita- bly entail on those who harbored the fugi- tives the last vengeance of the despot, Thus the choice is left between precarious flight to the mountain fastnesses, in the very teeth of the enemy, and the alterna- tive of lurking in the vicinity of the invaded hamlet, upon the slender chance of eluding the keen scent of the bloodhounds. The governor, or, in fact, the king of all the Galla now dependent on Shoa, is Abo- gaz Maretch, who resides at Wona-badera, south of Angollala. At first a bitter ene- my of Sahela Selassie, this haughty war- rior chief, renowned for his bravery, was finally gained over by bribes, and by prom- ises of distinction and advancement, which have actually been fulfilled. Partly by force, and partly by soft words and judi- cious intermarriages with chiefs of the va- rious tribes, he contrives to keep in some sort of order the wild spirits over whom he presides ; but he is taxed with want of proper severity, and although still high in favor, has more than once been suspected of divulging the royal projects. Abba Mooalle, the governor of Moogher and of the surrounding Galla in the west, was also formerly very inimical to Shoa ; but being won over to the royal interests by the espousal of his sister, by preferment to extensive power, and by the hand of one of the despotic princesses, he was four years since converted to Christianity, when the king became his sponsor. The valu- ble presents which he is enabled to make to the throne, owing to his proximity to the high caravan-road from the interior, pre- serve him a distinguished place in the esti- mation of the negoos, than whom he is little inferior in point of state. At constant war with the Galla occupying the country to the westward, between Sullala Moogher and Gojam, he hastily assembles his troops twice or thrice during the year, and making eagle-like descents across the Nile at the head of ten thousand cavalry, rarely fails to recruit the royal herds with a rich har- vest in cattle. Dogmo, who resides in the mountain of Yerrur, was educated in the palace ; and his undeviating attachment to the crown Ma 244 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. has been rewarded with the hand of one of the king's illegitimate daughters. Botha, Shambo, and Dogmo, are the sons of Bun- nie, whose father, Borri, governed the en- tire tract styled Ghera Meder, " the coun- try on the left," which includes all the Galla tribes bordering on both sides of the Hawash in the south of Shoa. Bunnie was, in consequence of some transgression, imprisoned in Aramba ; and Botora, ano- ther potent Galla chieftain, appointed in his stead. But this impolitic transfer of power creating inveterate hatred between the two families, each strove to destroy the other. Bunnie was in consequence liberated, and restored to his government ; but resting incautiously under a tree on his return, not long afterward, from a successful ex- pedition against the Aroosi, whom he had defeated, he was suddenly surrounded by the enemy, and slain, together with four chiefs, his confederates, and nearly the whole of his followers. His sons were then severally invested with governments ; and Boku, the son of Botora, was at his father's demise intrusted with the preser- vation of the avenues to the lake Zooai, long an object of the royal ambition. Among the most powerful Galla chief- tains who own allegiance to Shoa, is Jhara, the son of Chamme, soi-disanl queen of Moolo Falada, who, since the demise of her husband, has governed that and other prov- inces adjacent. Sahela Selassie, who it •will be seen relies more upon political mar- riages than upon the force of arms, sent matrimonial overtures to this lady, and re- ceived for answer the haughty message, " that if he would spread the entire road from Angollala with rich carpets, she might perhaps listen to the proposal, but upon no other conditions !" The Christian lances poured over the land to avenge this insult offered to the monarch of Shoa, and the in- vaded tribe laid down their arms ; but Go- banah. foster-brother to Jhara, and a migh- ty man of renown, finding that his majesty proposed burning their hamlets without re- servation, rose to oppose the measure. At this critical moment an Amhara trumpeter raised his trombone to his lips. The Galla, believing the instrument to be none other than a musket, fled in consternation, and their doughty chieftain surrendered him- self a prisoner at discretion. Upon learning to whom he had relin- quished his liberty, Gobanah, broken-heart- ed, abandoned himself to despair, and re- fused all sustenance for many days. The hand of the fair daughter of the queen was eventually the price of his ransom ; and on the celebration of the nuptials, the king, who, with reference to his conquest of Moolo Falada, might have exclaimed, with the Roman dictator, " Veni vidi, vici" con- ferred upon Jhara the government of all the subjugated Galla as far as the sources of the Hawash, and to the Nile in the west. Warlike, daring, and ambitious, exercising his important functions almost beyond the ken of his sovereign, and possessing, from his proximity to Gojam and Damot, the means of creating himself the leader of a vast horde, there can be little, doubt, al- though he has hitherto evinced strong at- tachment to the crown, that, imitating the example of all Pagan chieftains who have gone before him, he will one day profit by his opportunities to take up arms against Shoa, and may thus be destined to enact a most conspicuous part in the history of the Galla nation. CHAPTER XCVII. THE GALLA NATION. Abyssinia had long maintained her glo- ry unsullied under an ancient line of em- perors, when, in the sixteenth century of the Christian era, the ambitious and for- midable Graan, at the head of a whole na- tion of Moslem barbarians, burst over the frontier, and dashed into atoms the struc- ture of two thousand five hundred years. Defended by hireling swords, which in a series of sanguinary conflicts wrested the victorious wreath from the brow of the in- vader, and since, supported rather by the memory of departed greatness than by ac- tual strength, small portions of the once vast empire have struggled on, the shadow only of imperial dignity. But the glory had departed from the house of Ethiop, her power had been prostrated before the migh- ty conqueror and his wild band ; and the Galla hordes, pouring flagrante bello into the richest provinces, from southern Cen- tral Africa, reerected heathen shrines du- ring the reign of anarchy, and rose and flourished on her ruins. The history of these African Tartars is, however, veiled in the deepest obscurity. Under the title of Oroma, they trace their origin to three sisters, daughters of Jeru- salem, to whom are applied traditions sim- ilar to the scriptural chronicle of the de- scendants of Lot. In their own language, the word "Galla" signifies ingressi; and of themselves they affirm that Wollaboo, their father, came from beyond Bargamo, " the great water ;" and that his children PAGAN INVADERS— SAVAGE PROPENSITIES. 245 were nine — Aroosi, Karaiyo, Jille, Abidchu, Gillan, Woberi, Metta, Gumbidchu, and Becho-Fugook — from whose loins have sprung the innumerable clans or houses which now people the greater portion of intra-tropical Africa. . But by the Moslem bigots, who form the chief curse of Ethio- pia, it is said that the term by which the nation is recognized was applied to the lima Oroma, or seed of Oroma, by the prophet himself, who, on sending to sum- mon Wollaboo to become a proselyte to the true faith, received a direct refusal. " Gal La," " he said No/' reported the unsuccess- ful messenger on his return. " Let this then be the denomination of the infidels in future," exclaimed the arch impostor, " since they will not receive the celestial revelations made through the angel Ga- briel." But whatever may be the origin of the heathen invaders, it is certain that, as a martial people, they have greatly degen- erated from their ancestors. United under one head, they overran the fairest provin- ces of Ethiopia ; and had they remained united, they might, with equal ease, have • completed the conquest of the greater por- tion of the African continent. Relaxing, however, in their common cause against the Christians, the tribes soon began to contest among each other for the posses- sion of the newly acquired territory. In- testine feuds and dissensions neutralized their giant power ; and the weakness and disorganization by which the majority are now characterized, is to be ascribed to the fact of there being no king in Israel. Roving in his native pastures, where his manners are unadulterated by the semi- civilization of Abyssinia, the equestrian Galla is an object worthy the pencil of Carle Vernet or Pinelli. Tall and athletic, his manly figure is enveloped in a toga, such as graced the sons of ancient Rome, and his savage, wild, and fiery features, are rendered still more ferocious by thick bushy hair arranged either in large lotus- leaved compartments, or streaming over the shoulders in long raven plaits. Grease and filth however form his delight ; and he sparkles under a liberal coat of the much- loved butter, which is unsparingly applied when proceeding to the perpetration of the most dastardly and inhuman deeds. Ac- coutred with spear, sword, and buckler, and wedded to the rude saddle, whereof he would seem to form a part, the Pagan scours fearlessly over the grassy savannas which he has usurped from the Christian, and is engaged in perpetual desultory strife with all his border neighbors. Possessing the finest breed of horses in Ethiopia, and wealthy both in flocks and herds, which roam over boundless meadows smiling with clover, trefoil, and buttercups, this pastoral people devote their time gen- erally to agricultural pursuits, and herein they are aided by a delightful climate, and by a luxuriant, well-watered soil. While the women tend the sheep and oxen in the field, and manage the industrious hive, the men plough, sow, and reap, presenting in this respect a striking contrast to their in- dolent lowland neighbors, the Ada'i'el, whom they rival in barbarous ferocity, in treach- ery, and in savage propensities. Rich and verdant valleys, the glory of the mountains,, and the pride of the proprietors, by the sweat of whose brow they have been cloth- ed with the most luxuriant crops, annually flourish, but too frequently to be swept from off the land by the sudden burst of war. Often is the cup of hope dashed from the lips when the enjoyment of the contents is deemed most certain, and the mangled corse of the husbandman is left on the bor- ders of the very field of which he was gar- nering in the ripe corn. Nor are the female portion of the Galla population less eminent in the equestrian art than their warlike lords, whose steeds it is their business to tend and saddle for the foray. Distinguished for their beauty among the dark daughters of Africa, their fine figures are slenderly attired in a short leathern petticoat, embroidered with a flounce of white cowry shells, and clasped around the waist by a zone of colored beads. A flowing cotton robe completes the toilet of the wealthy ; and the time of all is equally devoted to the braiding an infinity of minute tresses, falling over the shoulders after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. But their garments and their persons are unsparingly anointed with lard and butter ; and the romance which might otherwise attach to their native charms, cannot fail to be dispelled on near approach. The conically thatched cabins of the Galla are grouped in rural clusters, and uniformly surrounded by a stone wall as a precaution against surprise. The hamlet is often concealed amid the dark green groves of towering, cedar-like juniper, of which sombre forests grace the deep bro- ken ravine ; and through each rocky chan- nel tumbles the foaming cascade, to me- ander over the luxuriant pasture, redolent of aromatic herbs. Bees form a portion of the wealth of every family, and the flower-clothed meads, fostered by an Italian sky, are covered with them. The same whimsical customs which have been gene- 246 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. rally practiced since the days of Virgil, are here extant. The same confused clamor is raised to induce the swarm to alight ; and the cylindrical hive having i been rubbed inside with the leaves of odor- iferous herbs to entice the wild insects to remain, it is suspended under the eaves of j the hut, and twice during the year robbed of the honey. To the performance of the religious rites of the pagan, a tree is indispensable, his devotions and his sacrifices being invaria- bly performed under the shadow of its boughs. On the interment of a priest, a sycamore or a coffee-tree, is planted over the grave, and held sacred for ever ; while on the banks of the Ha wash stands the venerable Woda Nuwee* to which the tribes flock from far and wide to make vows and propitiatory offerings, and to recount their exploits in war. Paying adoration onlv to stocks and stones, and bending the knee to none but idols and serpenfs, they here lavish votive oblations of butter and honey to secure the favor of the deity— hang upcm the spreading branches the revolting trophies taken from their enemies; and performing incanta- tions to Sar, the prince of the demons, bind around their necks the entrails of the slaughtered victim which has yielded aus- picious omens. Two great annual sacrifices are made to the deities Ogli and Ateti, the former between June and July, the latter in the beginning of September. A number of goats having been slain, the lubah, or priest, wearing a tuft of long hair on his crown, proceeds with a bell in his hand, and his brows encircled by a fillet of cop- per, to divine from the fat, caul, and en- trails, whether or not success will attend the warriors in battle. This point deter- mined, the assembled multitude, howling and screaming like demons, continue to surfeit themselves with raw meat, to swal- low beer, and to inhale smoke to intoxica- tion, until midnight — invoking Wak, the Supreme Being, to grant numerous pro- geny, lengthened years, and abundant crops, as well as to cause their spears to prevail over those of their foes ; and when sacrificing to Ateti, the goddess of fecun- dity, exclaiming frequently, "Lady, we commit ourselves unto thee; stay thou with us always." The kalicha is the Galla wizard, conju- rer, and physician. With the putrefying intestines of a goat hung about his neck, * Ficus sycamorus, the wild fig. It is called worjca, " the golden," by the Amhara, and attains a vast size. and armed with a bell and a copper whip, his skill in the expulsion of the devil is rarely known to fail. A serpent is propi- tiated, and the patient rubbed with butter, fumigated with potent herbs, and exorcised with°frantic howls, a few strokes of the lash being administered until the cure is perfected. No Amhara will slay either a lubah or a kalicha under any circumstances, from a superstitious dread of bis dying curse ; and Galla sorceresses are frequent- ly called in by the Christians of Shoa, to transfer sickness, or to rid the house of evil spirits, by cabalistic incantations, per- formed with" the blood of ginger-colored hens, and red he-goats. But among the Galla sorcerers and sooth- sayers, the Wato, already mentioned as in- habiting the mountain Dalacha, toward the sources of the Hawash, are the most uni- versally celebrated. Neither pagan nor Christian will molest this tribe, from the same superstitious apprehension of their malediction, and still more from a desire to obtain their blessing ; while he who re- • ceives the protection of a Wato, may travel with perfect security over every part of the country inhabited by the Galla. Subsist- ing entirely by the chase, they wander from lake to lake and from river to river, de- stroying the hippopotamus, upon the flesh of which animal they chiefly live— whereas no other heathen will touch it. Feared and respected, and claiming to themselves to be the original stock of the Oromo na- tion, they deem all other clans unclean from having mixed with Mohammadans and Christians ; and refusing on this ac- count to intermarry, remain to this day a separate and distinet people. All barbarians are orators ; and the eu- phonous language of the Galla, which unfortunately can boast of no written char- acter, is admirably adapted to embellish their eloquent and impressive delivery. Cradled in the unexplored heights of Ethio- pia, many of the customs of these fierce illiterate idolators are closely and remark- ably allied to those of the more civilized nations of antiquity. Seeking presages, like the Romans and Etrurians, in the flight of birds, and in the entrails of slaugh- tered sacrifices— wearing the hair braided like the ancient Egyptians, and, like them, sleeping with the head supported by a wooden crutch— wedding the relict of a deceased brother, according to the Mosaic law, and bowing the knee to the old serpent, whom they regard as the father of all man- kind — an acquaintance with these wild invaders suggests to the speculations of curiosity novel proofs of their origin when KINGDOM OF ENAREA— COFFEE AND CIVET. 247 referred to a common parent ; nor are these a little enhanced by the existence of a prophecy, that their hordes are one day to quit the highlands of their usurpation, and march to the east and to the north, • ; that they may conquer the inheritance of their Jewish ancestors." CHAPTER XCVIII. UNEXPLORED COUNTRIES TO THE SOUTH. Divided into endless houses, the ma- jority of the southern Oromo tribes, who boast independence of Shoa, are governed by hereditary chieftains ; and it is only where the Moslem slave-dealer has suc- cessfully commenced the work of conver- sion to the creed promulgated by the pro- phet, that this wild heathen race have been brought to bow the neck to the yoke of kings. Of this Enarea affords a most striking example, for there one half of the * entire population have abandoned idolatry, while despotism has taken root and flour- ishes under a line of Mohammadan rulers. Surrounded on all sides by lofty moun- tains, this kingdom embraces an extensive plateau of table land, which forms the sep- aration of the waters to the north and south, and must be among the most eleva- ted regions of Africa. Menchilla, stretch- ing from east to northwest, is the principal range, and a spur to the southwest is described as joining the so called moun- tains of the moon. Saka, the capital, con- tains from ten to twelve thousand inhabit- ants, mixed Pagans and Mohammadans, who inhabit houses of a circular form, somewhat better constructed than those of the Amhara. Sae^d was the son of Ascari, a Moham- madan, and his sister Elikkee wedding a Galla, bore a son Teso, who was brought up in heathenism, and conquered Enarea. His son B5k(i also died a Pagan ; but Bofo, " the serjj, is the principal. This king is also a convert to Mohammadanism ; and the life of his father having been sav- ed by a vulture, which, according to the legend, plucked out the eyes of a host of Gentiles by whom the royal person was assailed, he retains a domesticated bird, which, with a tinkling bell around its neck, invariably accompanies the army on all predatory expeditions. At the termination CATARACTS OF DUMBARO— CAFFA. 249 of the first march Abba Rebo with his own royal hands slays a white bull, and if the wild vultures of the air join the trained bird in the repast, the omens are esteemed to be fortunate. The Mohammadan Galla tribes, those on the border especially, are uniformly the most savage and barbarous. The Alaba are dire monsters, and more dreaded than the wild beasts, whom they far exceed in ferocity. The cruelties practiced by the chief of the Goma are almost incredible. Offenders are deprived of hands, nose, and ears ; and their eyes having been seared with a hot iron, the mutilated victims are paraded through the market-place for the edification of the populace. The sight of all prisoners taken in war is similarly de- stroyed ; and a stone having been tied about the neck, they are thrown by hundreds in- to a river formerly styled Daama, but now denominated the Chuba, from a belief that its waters are composed solely of human blood. It rises in Utter Gudder, where is a tributary tribe called Mergo, subsist- ing entirely upon the chase of the elephant and wild buffalo. In Goma, the Moslem faith is universal. Every man is a war- rior ; and retaining a number of Shankela slaves to cultivate the ground, remains idle himself, unless when engaged in war, or in the chase. The Boono are a republican tribe of Pagans, bordering on Enarea, and who, acknowledging no king, are governed by a council of the elders. Inhabiting lofty mountains to which there is only one ac- cessible road, strongly fortified by nature and by art, none venture to invade this commonwealth, while the Boono make war with impunity upon all the surround- ing clans ; and, from their signal prowess in the field, are said to be propitiated even by the king of Enarea. Jimma and JVIancho are independent Galla tribes under Saana, surnames? Abba Juffar, from the title of his war-horse, which in Ethiopia is usually p^sumed by the chieftain. From Saka. a southerly course through these provinces leads, by fifteen or twenty easy stages, directly to the Gochob, above the cataracts ol Dum- baro, the neighborhood of which is infest- ed by banditti, who lie in ambush to kid- nap the unwary. The river is crossed by means of rafts belonging to the queen of Caffa. They are capable each of contain- ing from thirty to forty persons, and are formed of the trunks of large trees lashed together with strips of raw hide, and sur- rounded by high gunwales of the same construction— the helm being a moveable 17 spar, unaided by oars or other propelling power. Caffa is the mountainous peninsula form- ed by the junction of the Omo with the Gochob. It is an independent country of mixed Pagans and Christians, over whom presides Balee, the relict of King Hulla- loo. She is represented to be a young woman of extraordinary energy and abili- ty, very hospitable to the rovers who visit her with blue calico, beads, and trinkets, in return for which she gives cloth and oth- er produce of the country. On the demise of her husband she assembled all the gov- ernors of the different provinces, and hav- ing caused them to be put in irons, pro- claimed herself queen. Her only son Go- marra, " the hippopotamus," still a youth, leads the army into the field ; but she often proceeds with the troops in person, and in- variably plans the expedition. Whenso- ever she moves abroad, her subjects are bound to spread the way with their rai- ment ; and as well during the administra- tion of justice from behind a screen with a small aperture, as during the public ban- quet, drums, fiddles, and flutes play inces- santly. Nyhur, Moyey, Ziggahan, Boora, and Alera, are the principal towns of Caffa; and the entire rugged and mountainous country is covered with thi^k forests, which also clothe the banks of the Gochob, affording shelter to the elephant, the buffa- lo, the rhinoceros, and other wild beasts, in extraordinary numbers. The river is said to take its source in the distant prov- inces of Bedes Yedee and Goma, and be- low the cataracts abounds in hippopotami, which are much hunted by the natives. Dumb^ro, Wurretta, and Tufftee, as also the Golda negroes, who go perfectly naked, ars tributary to Balee, and pay chiefly in gold obtained from the hot valleys. The inhabitants of Caffa reverence Friday and Sunday, as do the Galla, and like them cel- ebrate the festival of St. Michael by a great feast ; but their language which is common to Gobo, Tufftee, and Dumbaro, is quite distinct from that spoken by the Galla nation. A considerable trade exists with Enarea in slaves and cotton cloths, which latter is to be purchased for a piece of salt value two pence halfpenny sterling. Coffee is produced in immense quantities, of the finest quality, and tradition points to this country as the first residence of the plant. It was spread by the civet cat over the mountains of the Ittoo and Aroosi Galla, where it has flourished for ages in wild profusion, and is thence said to have been 250 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. transported five hundred years ago by an enterprising trader from the opposite coast of Arabia. I Beyond the extensive wilderness which bounds Caffa on the south, are the Doko, a pigmy and perfectly wild race, not ex- ceeding four feet in height, of a dark olive complexion, and in habits even more closely approximated to " the beasts that perish " than the bushmen of Southern Africa. They have neither idols, nor temples, nor sacred trees ; but possess a glimmering idea of a Supreme Being, to whom in mis- fortune — such as any of their relatives being slain by the kidnapper — they pray standing on their heads, with their feet resting against a tree : " Yere, if indeed thou art, why dost thou suffer us to be killed ? We are only eating ants, and ask neither food nor raiment. Thou hast rais- ed us up. Why dost thou cast us down ?" Many natives of Caffa and Enarea, who have visited these pigmies in their native wilds, for evil, describe the road from the former kingdom to pass through forests and mountains, for the most part uninhab- ited, and swarming with wild beasts, ele- phants and buffaloes especially. From Bonga, distant about fifty or sixty miles, it is ten days' journey to Tufrlee, the Orao river being crossed midway by a rude wooden bridge, sixty yards in breadth. Seven easy sUges beyond Tufftee is Koo- loo, whence the Doko country may be reached in one day. The climate is warm and the seasons extremely wet, the rains commencing in May, ana continuing with- out the slightest intermission until Feb- ruary. The country inhabited by the Doko is clothed with a dense forest of bamboo, in the depths of which the people construct their rude wigwams of bent canes and grass. They have no king, no laws, no arts, no arms ; possess neither flocks nor herds ; are not hunters, do not cultivate the soil, but subsist entirely upon fruits, roots, mice, serpents, reptiles, ants, and honey — both of which latter they lick like the bear from off their arms and hands. They be- guile serpents by whistling, and having torn them piecemeal with their long nails, devour them raw ; but although the forests abound with elephants, buffaloes, lions, and leopards, they have no means of destroying or entrapping them. A large tree called Loko is found, among many other species, attaining an extraordinary height, the roots of which, when scraped, are red, and serve for food. The yebo and meytee are the principal fruits ; and to obtain these, women as well as men ascend the trees like mon- keys, and in their quarrels and scrambles not unfrequently throw each other down from the branches. Both sexes go perfectly naked, and have thick pouting lips, diminutive eyes, and flat noses. The hair is not woolly, and in the females reaches to the shoulders. The men have no beard. The nails, never pared, grow both on the hands and feet like eagle's talons, and are employed in digging for ants. The people are ignorant of the use of fire. They perforate the ears in infancy with a pointed bamboo, so as to leave no- thing save the external cartilage, but they neither tattoo nor pierce the nose ; and the only ornament worn is a necklace com- posed of the spinal process of a serpent. Prolific, and breeding like wild beasts, the redundant population forms the wealth of the dealer in human flesh. Great an- nual slave hunts are undertaken from Dum- baro, Caffa, and Kooloo ; and the dense forests of bamboo, the creaking of which is represented to be loud and incessant, often prove the scene of fierce and bloody strug- gles between rival tribes. Wide tracts having been encircled, the band of rovers, converging, impel the denizens to the cen- tre. Holding a gay cloth before their per- sons, they dance and sing in a peculiar manner ; and the defenceless pigmies, aware from sad experience that all who at- tempt to escape will be ruthlessly hunted down, and perhaps slain, tamely approach, and suffer themselves to be blindfolded. One hundred merchants can thus kid- nap a thousand Dokos ; and although long prone to their old habits of digging for ants, and searching for mice, serpents, or lizards, the captives rarely attempt to escape. Their docility and usefulness, added to very limited wants, rendering them in high de- mand, none are ever sold out of the coun- tries bordering on the Gochob, and none therefore find their way to Shoa. Tht foregoing particulars have been embofled from the concurrent testimony of numerous individuals of various tribes, ages, and religions, who have either visit- ed or were natives of the countries referred to, and who, after attaining to manhood, had been borne away in slavery. Together with their own langMage they retained a perfect recollection oi the land of their birth, and of all that had befallen them since the loss of liberty — a loss by many dated from a very recent period, and which had resulted either from the lawless vio- lence of the freebooter, or from the unre- strained cupidity of mercenary relatives. Agreeing in every respect with the type of Herodotus, the Doko are unquestionably INDIAN OCEAN— KINGDOM OF KOOCHA. 251 the pigmies of the ancients, who describe them as found only in tropical Africa ; and it is a curious fact, and one well worthy of observation, that the people of Caffa repre- sent their forefather Boogazee to have is- sued from a cave in a forest — a tradition which cannot fail to call to mind the Trog- lodytes, who are also mentioned by the father of history as being inhabitants of this portion of the African continent. CHAPTER XCIX. THE RIVETt GOCHOB. An inspection of the map will show on the eastern coast an extensive hiatus, which from the scanty reports that have been gleaned is most certainly studded with high mountains, and drained by numerous and powerful rivers ; but no details have hitherto been obtained that justified the laying down of either with any geograph- ical accuracy. The first accounts of the existence in central Africa of a great river were brought to Etearchus, king of the Oasis of Ammon, by certain youths of the Nassamonians, who, as related by Herodo- tus, " had been deputed to explore her sol- itudes. After a journey of many days they were seized and carried into captivity by some men of dwarfish stature, who con- ducted them over marshy grounds, to a city in which all the inhabitants were of the same diminutive appearance, and of a black color. This city was washed by a great river, now ascertained to be the Ni- ger, which flowed from west to east, and abounded in crocodiles." The early Arabian geographers speci- fically mention large rivers descending from the high mountain land to the southward of the blue river, and flowing to the Indian ocean ; and it is a curious fact, that they designate one of these " the River of Pig- mies." The Portuguese were the next who spoke of this stream, upward of two centuries ago ; and from the highlands of Abyssinia a clue to its origin and course has now been obtained, which will serve in a great measure to supply the existing deficiencies, and to cover the wide space of terra incognita in Eastern Africa north of the equator. The Gochob is described to rise in the great central ridge which is known to divide the waters that discharge themselves east into the Indian Ocean, from those that flow west into the Bahr el Abiad, and more southerly into the Atlan- tic. Spreading into a lake, and bearing on osom a noble body of water, it is joined 17* fifteen days' journey south of Enarea by the Omo, a large tributary which rises be- yond Tufftee in Susa Maketch — a fountain or jet of water playing the height of a spear shaft. Half a day's journey below the point of junction, the united volume rolls over a stupendous cataract called Dumba.ro, the roar of which can be heard many miles, whence pursuing its course to the south- east, it forms the southern limit of Zingero, and finally disembogues into the sea. There seems every reason to believe that the Gochob must be identical with the Kib- bee of the best extant maps, described to be a very large river coming from the north- west, and entering the sea near the town of Juba, immediately under the equator. If not the Kibbee, it must be the Quili- mancy, which disembogues by several es- tuaries between Patta and Malinda, four degrees farther to the south ; but the ac- counts of the latter, so far as it is known in its lower course, authorize the adoption of the first hypothesis. The general course of the Nile to the north, and of the Kibbee to the south, are said to have been well known to the Egyp- tians three thousand years ago. The sa- cristan of the temple of Minerva in Thebes told Herodotus that half the waters of the father of rivers ran to the north, and the other half to the south, and that they were produced by the tropical rains. The cur- rents experienced in five degrees north of the equator, in the vicinity of the coast, confirm the opinion of a great river rolling a vast volume of water into the eastern ocean. At their height during the preva- lence of the monsoon in August and Sep- tember, they are known to sweep a vessel along at the rate of one hundred and twenty miles a day, frequently exposing the inex- perienced navigator to the chance of ship- wreck on Socotra, whereas before and after the tropical rains the current is scarcely perceptible. Were this caused by the monsoon, it would prevail equally over these latitudes during the influence of the southwesterly winds ; but the fact remains, that it is felt only off the coast in about five degrees north latitude, at the period alone when the river must be Swol- len with the volume of water gathered from the highest mountain land in the interior. Beyond Zingero, and considerably lower down the great river, is the kingdom of Koocha, which is described to be hot, and subject to annual rains of two months' du- ration. It extends on both sides, with a numerous population inhabiting many large towns, of which Laade, Seylo, Umpho, Jella, Gulta, Aara, and Wunjo, all on the 252 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. northern bank, are the principal. The houses are conical, and constructed of mud and bamboos, which there grow abundantly. All the nation are Galla, with features strictly those of the Negro, and their king is Bosha, the son of Laade, surnamed from the title of his war steed, Abba Wabotoo, M I am he who seizes." In addition to the two umbrellas of state, the one composed of blue, and the other of crimson, his majesty is distinguished by a shield covered with massive gold, and by many ornaments of the same precious metal on his person. The costume of all classes consists of party-colored raiment — red, blue, and white, being mingled togeth- er in profusion. Large pewter ear-rings are worn by the males ; and by the females, whose hair is braided in long ringlets, sil- ver amulets, anklets, and bracelets. Both sexes are great equestrians. The saddles are covered with red imported leather, and the horses and mules are large and abun- dant. Cultivation in every description of tropical grain is universal ; honey abounds in every quarter, and beer and hydromel are manufactured by all. Spices, odoriferous woods, and aromatic herbs, tea, coffee, oranges, nutmeg, and ginger, are exceedingly plentiful. Pre- cious stones are also found, and bartered to the white men, who, wearing shoes, trowsers, and hats, and having yellow hair, come with their merchandise in rowing- boats thirty days from the sea. They bring blue calico, chintz, pepper, tobacco, copper, cutlery, and " fire water," and re- ceive in exchange slaves, ivory, spices, and gold, which latter is brought in large quantities from Douro. Slaves being in great demand, and their acquisition extremely lucrative, Bosha is at perpetual war with all the surrounding tribes, save during the annual rains. The Dannagem, and the Danna-Oorkeshool Galla, are attacked every year, as are also the Malee Galla, a people armed with bows and arrows, who dig pits, throw up bam- boo stockades, and place pointed stakes in the ground to annoy the cavalry of Koocha, whose horses being kept in the house all the year round, and abundantly fed, are very superior. Murderers are punished according as they have dealt with their victim — one or two or more spear wounds or blows with the sword being inflicted by the nearest relative of the deceased — but all thieves, delinquents, and poor people, are sold to the white traders, and immense numbers of slaves of both sexes are brought down by the Douro Galla, in rafts with high gunwales, containing six or eight persons. The great river, which in this kingdom is supplied by two large tributaries — the Toreech, rising in the countiy of the Ga- ma Gobo, and the Teeto, coming from the Ara Galla — is the medium of all trade. It is very broad, and save during the rainy season has little perceptible motion. The volume of water is always large, and comes from a great distance inland. Hip- popotami and elephants abound ; and the gimjah, or tree tiger, which infests the borders, is greatly feared for its ferocity, and prized for the beauty of its skin. Na- tive crafts reach the sea in fifteen days, and ivory, slaves, coffee, and a variety of other merchandise, are constantly brought on rafts by the tribes higher up ; but the white people never go beyond Koocha, neither do the interior tribes pass down to the sea. The Gochob, of which the discovery promises important accessions in a geo- graphical as well as in a commercial point of view, may be conjectured the " Barga- mo," or great water, from beyond which the Galla describe their hordes to have poured, when they invaded Abyssinia, after being driven from the vast unexplored in- terior by the centrifugal force yet unex- plained. Like the barbarous nations who were made the weapons of Divine chas- tisement upon the corrupted empire of Rome, they also brought darkness and ig- norance in their train, but were unable to eradicate the true religion. Throughout the regions included between the Nile, the Hawash, and the Gochob, which may pro- perly be termed Galla, none but their own tongue is spoken ; whereas to the south of the last-named river, the intruding population have lost their language, and become gradually incorporated with the aboriginal possessors of the soil. What- ever may be the true magnitude of the river, it is clearly navigated to a consider- able extent by a white people, who reap a lucrative harvest while draining the coun- try of its population, by a traffic which must reflect the blackest disgrace upon the name of any civilized people, and is here not rendered the less infamous by the fact, that many of their purchases are Christians ! CHAPTER C. EXISTING CHRISTIAN REMNANTS. On both sides of the river Gochob, there exists in various quarters, isolated com- munities professing the Christianity of Ethi- LAKE ZOOAI-KINGDOM OF SUSA. 253 opia, who for a long period of years have successfully held their position among the mountain fastnesses in the very heart of the now Pagan and Mohammadan country. One of the most remarkable of these seats is in the lake Zooai,* where in the church of Emanuel are deposited the holy arks, umbrellas, drums, gold and silver chairs, and other furniture belonging to all the sa- cred edifices of Southern Abyssinia ; which, with numerous manuscripts no longer ex- tant, were here deposited by Nebla Den- gel at the period of Graan ? s invasion. Five rivers empty themselves into this lake. It is described to be a noble sheet of water teeming with hippopotami, which frequently destroy the frail bamboo rafts employed in maintaining communication "between the shore and the Five Islands-! These are covered with lofty trees, and contain upward of three thousand Chris- tian houses, constructed of lime and stone. In religion the population are said by the clergy of Shoa to have sadly degenerated ; but although destitute of priests, the churches are preserved inviolate, and monks and monasteries abound. In Gurague, the population are almost exclusively Christian. Twelve isolated churches, previously unheard of, were dis- covered a few years since, on the conquest of Yeya by Sahela Selassie ; and between Garro and Metcha, where the forest com- mences in the south of Shoa, is a small tract peopled by Christians, who reside en- tirely in caves among the mountains, as a measure of security against the heathen, by whom they are compassed in on every side. Eight days' journey from Aimellele on the frontier of Gurague, is Cambat, a small mountainous province, lying due east of Zingero. With the exception of a few Mohammadan rovers, this independent state is inhabited solely by Christians, who have fifteen churches, and numerous mon- asteries, but, like the people of Zooai, are without priests. The capital, Karempza, is constructed on the summit of a lofty hill of the same name, and Degoyey, the king, who is extremely advanced in years, is represented as a just and upright ruler, very hospitable to strangers, and a great warrior. But between Aimellele, which is a dependency of Sahela Selassie, and Cambat, the road passes through the Adeea and Alaba Galla, the latter governed by a * Called Laki in the Galla language, and in that of Sturagufe, Chilldloo. t Tudduchu, Debra Tehoon, Debra Seena, Guragi, %nd Amshoot. queen, whose notorious treachery renders the passage unsafe. Wollamo is another Christian province under an independent sovereign, lying be- low Cambat, to the southeastward of Zin- gero, and at constant war with both these states. The country is extremely moun- tainous, and the inhabitants, who are pur- chased for twenty pieces of salt, and fre- quently brought by the slave-dealers to Shoa, are of a fair complexion, and speak a distinct language. Wofana is the capital, and the province is watered by a consider- able river termed the Ooma — the surround- ing tribes being the Koolloo, Woradda, Assoo, and Jimma. Eight days' journey be- yond Zingero is the country of Mager, the king of which, by name Degaie, is repre- sented to be a very powerful monarch. Korchassie, which is famous for the great river Wabi, is peopled by Christians, as is Sidama also, and both are surrounded on all sides by the heathen. But of all the isolated remnants of the ancient Ethiopic empire to the south of Abyssinia, Susa would appear to be the most important and the most powerful. This kingdom is situated beyond Caffa, and extends to the head of the Gitche, which rises in Chara-Nara, and is one of the principal sources of the Gochob-. The rains are violent during three months of the year, and the climate is excessively cold, the elevation being much greater than that of Shoa, while beyond are moun- tains which " seem to touch the skies, and are covered with perpetual snow." Sugga Surroo was king over Susa. He was a Pagan ; but wore a " mateb," as many of the heathen tribes are wont to do. Hoti and Beddoo were his sons ; and on his death-bed he bequeathed the sceptre to the former, who, after a reign of ten years marked by the most galling tyranny, was deposed by the people, and Beddoo eleva- . ted to the throne. Turning his attention to Christianity, which had greatly degen- erated, he revived the custom of bathing the holy cross on Christmas-day, in the river Gitche, where all the surrounding Galla tribes perform the same ceremony without knowing why. Hoti was exiled in Goma ; and having contrived to raise three hundred cavalry, he set out to recover his throne ; but was pursued and slain by Abba Rebo. Beddoo is brother to Balee, the queen of Caffa ; and it is now six yer.rs since he gave his daughter Shash in marriage to the king of Enarea, through whose country a constant traffic has since been carried on with Northern Abyssinia — ^numbers of muskets ^ 254 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. and matchlocks being annually imported, and exchanged for civet, ivory, gold-dust, horses, and slaves. The road being thus opened, the priests proceeded to Gondar to the patriarch of the Abyssinian church, who blew the breath of the Holy Ghost into a leathern bag, which was safely conveyed back to Susa, and hung up in the cathedral. Ecclesi- astics in great numbers have been since ordained by the process of opening this bag, and causing a puff to pass across his face. They are distinguished by antique robes and silver mitres, and the churches and religious observances would appear to be similar in every respect to those of Shoa. The king of Susa is described as a tall, fair, and very handsome man of five-and- thirty, without beard or mustaches, and wearing the hair in the bushy wig-like form of the Amhara. He carries state umbrellas of yellow silk, surmounted by golden globes, wears a sword with a mas- sive golden scabbard, and bears a shield decorated with radii and crosses of the pure metal. The government is not des- potic. No subject can be put to death un- less condemned by the judges. Property is free ; and there is no restriction upon dress save in the article of gold, to wear which is the exclusive privilege of royalty. Bonga is the principal town and capital of Susa ; and there the king principally resides, in a stone house of two stories. His queen is Meytee, but he has besides " concubines as numerous as the hairs of the head." The banqueting hall is a long building similar to those of Sahela Selas- sie, and it is the scene of similar revels. His majesty presides daily at the feast, but is concealed from the gaze of his carous- ing subjects by an intervening curtain, while the dech agafari, styled " Gubbur- chu," acts as the master of ceremonies. Public audience is daily given, when the decisions of the judges are confirmed or annulled from a raised throne of solid gold concealed by velvet draperies. Susa is a kingdom of much greater ex- tent than Shoa, but in manners and cus- toms nearly similar. The monarch is ap- proached with shoulders iared, and three prostrations to the earth. On the festival of Maskal an annual review takes place at Booretta. Oxen are then slain for the soldiery, and each warrior receives a jar of beer from the royal cellars. The herald then proclaims the approaching expedition to the sound of the nugareet. The foray resembles that of the Amhara rabble — the same lack of discipline on the march — the same band of flutes and kettledrums — the same female culinary establishment. The warriors are similarly armed, and adopt the green sprig of asparagus in token of deeds of blood ; and the only existing difference would appear to be, that the booty captured in war is not monopolized by the crown. Tribute is paid to Beddoo by the chiefs of many surrounding countries, and prin- cipally by Shankelas with tattooed breasts. He annually extends his dominions by mur- derous inroads, directed chiefly against the Sooroo, a tribe of naked negroes inhabiting the wild valleys of Sasa. The Gumroo, a wild people clothed in hides, and rich in flocks and herds, are also frequently in- vaded, and hundreds swept into captivity. The chief mountain ranges of Susa are Decha, Gobo, and Saadee ; and the princi- pal rivers are the Gitche, Cheso, and Adiyo. Large slave caravans pass through the realm at all seasons from the most remote parts of the interior, the Mohammadan ro- vers being frequently absent from one to two years. The costume of the male portion of the population consists of a robe of striped red and blue cotton in alternate bands, with tight trowsers and a loose kilt of the same colors and material. The hair is worn en " goferi" as in Shoa, unless after the slaughter of a foe, when it is braided in long tresses like the ancient Egyptians. Copper and ivory bracelets decorate the successful warrior ; and a ring of silver is worn in the ear by those who have slain the giant among mammalia. The females are described as being fairer and more comely than their frail sisters of Shoa. They wear red and blue striped trowsers, reaching mid-leg, with a loose shift and a robe, also party-colored, the for- mer inclosed by a zone of beads. The hair is dressed, like that of the Amhara, in the shape of a bee-hive, with minute row* of elaborate curls ; but the odor of rancid butter with which these are clotted is some- what alleviated by the liberal application of oil of cloves. Marriage is celebrated without the In- tervention of the priesthood, and polygamy is universally exercised at the discretion of the man according to his worldly sub- stance. The contracting parties simply pledge fidelity, and in event of subsequent separation, the lady carries off her portion. Every house possesses its slaves ; but those -both of king and subject are permitted to work for themselves one day out of the seven. All occupation is interdicted on the Sabbath, as well as on the festivals of RAW FLESH DIET— PUNISHMENT OF THEFT. 255 Gabriel, Michael, and Georgis, which are the only saints' days observed in Susa. The language spoken is quite distinct from that of the Galla, from the Amharic, and from the ancient Geez or Ethiopic. It possesses a written character. The houses are constructed upon a circular plan of wattle and thatch. All classes are warriors, well mounted, and frequently en- gaged in the chase — large packs of dogs being kept for the purpose of hunting the rhinoceros, buffalo, elephant, lion, leopard, giraffe, zebra, and ostrich, which with many other animals new to natural history are said to abound. Bridles are manufactured of the skin of the hippopotamus, with which the rivers teem, and numbers of them are slain by the wandering Wato. Raw flesh, eaten with pepper, butter, and wheaten bread, forms the principal diet. Edible fruits are abundant. Citrons, nut- megs, ginger, coffee, and. tea, grow wild over the whole country. The two latter are taken by the Christians of Susa, as is also snuff; but tobacco is not inhaled. The grape vine is indigenous and exten- sively cultivated ; and the Outoo, the Gond- weiyo, and the Goddo, are described as aro- matic trees, of which the flowers, possess- ing the richest perfume, are dried, pulver- ized, and amalgamated with civet — the cats producing which are kept in every house, fed on raw beef, and placed before the fire, as in Enarea. Among the manifold superstitions of the people of Susa, a new knife, before being used for cutting meat, must be blown upon by the priest. Witchcraft has a firm hold upon every mind ; and many a luckless worker in iron is with his whole family condemned to be burnt alive in his house, as an atonement for evil deeds. Theft is punished by sewing up the culprit in a green hide, when he is suspended by the heels in the market-place, with the stolen property about his neck, until the contrac- tion of the drying skin at length puts a period to his sufferings — a refinement this upon the cruelty of the Emperor Maximin. Making due allowance for the supersti- tion and geographical ignorance of the va- rious natives from whom the foregoing par- ticulars have been collected, the fullest credit may be accorded — minute cross- examinations of individuals who could have held no previous communication with each other having corroborated every point. It is important to know thatthe Gochob, in its upper course, is occupied by so powerful a Christian people, whose sovereign exer- cises over the destinies of the surrounding Gentiles an influence which, if properly di- rected, could be made to check the rapid spread of Islamism, instead of fostering the traffic in human beings. The extensive wilderness beyond Susa may be concluded to form the barrier between the unfruitful land of Nigritia and the fair provinces oc- cupying the most elevated regions of Afri- ca. Seneca relates that two centurions, who were sent by Nero Caesar to explore the head of the Nile were recommended by the king of Ethiopia to the nearest kings beyond ; and that after a long journey they came " even unto the further countries, to immense morasses, the end of which nei- ther the natives themselves did know, nor anybody else may hope to find." CHAPTER CI. THE CONVERSION OF ETHIOPIA. In the year 330 after the birth of our Saviour, Meropius, a merchant of Tyre, having undertaken a commercial voyage to India, landed on the coast of Ethiopia, where he was murdered by the barbarians, and his two sons, Frumentius and Edesius, both devout men, being made prisoners, were carried as slaves before the emperor. The abilities, the information, and the peaceable demeanor of the brothers, soon gained not only their release, but high office in the court ; and living in the full confi- dence of the monarch until his decease, and subsequently under the protection of the queen-mother, the good will of the en- tire nation quickly succeeded. The work of conversion was commenced, and pro- ceeding with wonderful rapidity and suc- cess, a thriving branch was shortly added to the great Eastern church. Bearing the happy tidings, Frumentius appeared in Alexandria, and was received with open arms by the patriarch Athana- sius. Loaded with honors, and consecra- ted the first bishop of Ethiopia, a relation was thus happily commenced with Egypt, which has remained firm and friendly to the present day, and throughout fifteen centuries has bestowed upon a Coptish priest the high office of patriarch aboon* of the Ethiopic church. On his return to the country of his hopes*, Frumentius found that the spark of life had spread rapidly throughout the gloomy- darkness of the land. Baptism was insti- tuted, deacons and presbyters appointed, churches erected, and a firm foundation laid whereon to establish the Christian re- _^_^___— — — » * i. e. " Our Father." 256 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ligion in Abyssinia. Frumentius was de- servedly honored with a favored niche in the annals of her church history, and, un- der the title of " Salama," formed the sub- ject of high praise to all the sacred poets of Ethiopia. ^^ " Hail him with the voice of joy, sing praises to Salama, The door of pity and of mercy and of pleasant grace ; Salute those blessed hands bearing the pure torch of the Gospel, For the splendor of Christ's church has enlightened our darkness." During the succeeding century, priests and apostles, men of wonderful sanctity, flocked into the empire from all parts of the East, and miracles the most stupendous are related in the legends of those days. Mountains were removed, and the storms of the angry ocean stilled by the mere ap- plication of the staff. The adder and the basilisk glided harmless underfoot, and rivers stayed their roaring torrent, that the sandal of the holy man should remain un- stained by the flood. Aragawi raised the dead — the fingers of Likanos flamed like tapers of fire — Samuel rode upon his lion ; and thus the kingdom of Arvve, the old ser- pent of Ethiop, was utterly overthrown. The Abyssinians now rose to the scale of subtle casuists and disputants. Ab- struse doctrines were propounded, and speculative theories largely indulged in ; and the generation passed away ere the knotty points had been satisfactorily de- termined, how long Adam remained in Paradise before his fall ? and whether in his present state he held dominion over the angels ? In the year 481, the celebrated council of Chalcedon lighted up the torch of mis- understanding regarding the two nations of Christ. The Eastern church split and separated in mortal feud, and the Saracen pounced upon Egypt, rent and wasted by discord and distraction. The Abyssinians, denouncing the council a meeting of fools, concurred in the opinion of the Alexan- drian patriarch. The faith of the Mono- physite was declared to be the one only true and orthodox, and the banished Dios- corus received all the honors of a martyr. " The kings of the earth divided the unity of God and man. Sing praises to the martyr who laughed their religion to scorn. He was treated with indignity, they plucked out his flowing beard, Yea, and tore the teeth from his venerable face , But in heaven a halo of honor shall encircle Diosco- rus." But during the ensuing oppressions and enactions of the Moslem, the successors of St. Mark could barely retain his own exist- ence in Egypt ; and Ethiopia, his remote charge, now nearly isolated from the remain- der of the world, rested for the next ten cen- turies a sealed book to European history, preserving her independence from all for- eign yoke, and guarding in safety the flame of that faith, which she had inherited from her fathers. The reign of the ascetics succeeded to that of disputation, and men lacerated their bodies, and lived in holes and caves of the earth like wild beasts. Tekla Haimanot and Eustathius were the great founders of monkery in the land. An angel announced the birth of one, and the other floated over the sea, borne in safety amid the folds of his leathern garment. Miracles still con- tinued to be occasionally performed. Sanc- tity was further enhanced by mortification of the flesh, and austerity of life was highly praised and followed by the admiring mob. The original discipline of the anchorite was severe in the extreme. He was to be continually girt about the loins with heavy chains, or to remain for days immersed in the cold mountain stream — to recline upon the bare earth, and to subsist upon a scanty vegetable diet. Monasteries were at length founded, and fields and revenues set apart for the con- venience of their inmates ; and although a visiting superior was appointed to check corruption and punish innovation or trans- gression, the asperities of the monastic life gradually softened down. The Etchegue* preferred the comforts of a settled abode to wearisome tours and visitations. Fur- ther immunities were granted to all loving a life of ease and spiritual license ; and the commonwealth had to deplore the loss of a large portion of her subjects w r ho neither contributed tax, nor assisted in military service. > Thus converted at the very dawn of Christianity, Ethiopia spread her new reli- gion deep into the recesses of heathen Africa. Extending her wide empire on every side, the praise of the Redeemer soon arose from the wildest valleys and the most secluded mountains. From the great river Gochob to the frontiers of Nubia, the crutch and the cowl pervaded the land. Churches were erected in every convenient spot ; , and the blue badge of nominal Christianity encircled the necks of an ignorant multi- tude. The usual wars and rebellions arose, and schisms and sects fill up the archives of ten centuries with all the uninteresting precision of more civilized countries. But still the church flourished ; the patriarch was regularly received from Alexandria, * Grand prior of all the monasteries in Ethiopia. SPREAD OF CHRISTIANITY. 257. and a long list of ninety-five aboons flows quietly through the dull pages of Abyssin- ian record, from the time of Frumentius the First, until the days of the venerable Simeon, who, while gallantly defending the faith of his fathers, was barbarously mur- dered by the European partisans of the Italian Jesuit. The rise of the Mohammadan power in Arabia, and the rapid spread of Islamism, first circumscribed the limits of the empire, and begirt it round with foes. But although the nation was now called upon to repel the fierce assaults both of the heathen and of the fanatic followers of the false pro- phet, the measure of her oppression Was not filled until the cup had been deeply drained of the converting zeal of European priesthood. The usual horrors attendant upon religious war was then painfully un- dergone, and the blood of her children was unsparingly poured out. Nearest and dear- est relatives rallied under opposite stand- ards ; and the same cry of destruction ran from either host, " The glory of the true faith." The zeal of the Jesuit has seldom been displayed in more glowing colors, or in more decided defeat, than in the attempts so perseveringly made to draw within the meshes of the net the remote church of Ethiopia. And although the means em- ployed are to be justly condemned, still that ardor must be the theme of the high praise of all, which impelled old men and young to dare the difficulties and the dangers of a rude uncivilized land, with exposure to the prejudices of a people as bigoted as themselves in the cause of their religion. But the wily system of establishing rival orders and monasteries of mortification — of snapping asunder domestic ties, and of collecting together bands of discontented enthusiasts — well served the interests of the Catholic faith ; and there were always to be found obedient servants to bear in- structions to the farthest corners of the earth ; men who relinquished few comforts or enjoyments on quitting their austere cells, who were prepared at all hazards, and in all manners, to carry into execution the will of their superiors, and who gloried in the alternative of erecting an eternal fabric in honor of their order, or of obtain- ing the resplendent crown of martyrdom. The custom of ages had however struck too deeply into the heart of the Abyssinian. The power of the officiating clergy was paramount in the land. All the passions and the prejudices of the multitude were too firmly enlisted in the cause of ancient belief; and degraded as was the Christian- ity of the country, its forms and tenets were not more absurd, and not less perti- naciously supported, than those Romish innovations which were so fiercely, though so ineffectually, attempted. The soft wily speech and the thunder of excommunication were alike disregarded. Treachery and force were both tried and found equally unavailing. Blood flowed for a season like the swollen torrent, and the sound of wailing was heard from the palace to the peasant's hut ; but the storm expended itself, and finally passed away ; and after the struggle of a century, the discomfited monks relinquished their at- tempts upon the church of the Monophy- site, without leaving behind one solitary convert to their faith, and bearing along with them the loud maledictions of a much injured nation. CHAPTER CII. ' EFFORTS OF THE APOSTOLIC CHURCH. During the darkness of the middle ages, the church of Abyssinia had fallen into complete oblivion ; but about the com- mencement of the sixteenth century ru- mors were whispered abroad of a Christian monarch and a Christian nation establish ed in the centre of Africa ; and the happy news was first brought to the court of Por- tugal that a Christian church still existed, which had for ages successfully resisted, among the lofty mountains of Abyssinia, the fierce attacks of the sanguinary Sara- cen. In the year 1499, Pedro Covilham suc- ceeded in reaching Shoa, where he was received with that favor which novelty usually secures ; and although the stran- ger was prevented by the ancient laws of the kingdom from leaving the land, the quest had been successfully performed. The first link was reestablished of a chain which had been broken for ages — and shortly afterward the glorious Prester John and his Christian court were fully dis- closed, to abate the intense anxiety that reigned in the heart of every inhabitant of the West. In due process of time an Abyssinian embassador made his appearance in Por- tugal. Unbounded delight was experienced by King Emanuel and his court, and every honor was lavished upon Matthew the merchant of Shoa. All believed that the Abyssinians were devout Catholics, and 358 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. that a vast empire, estimated at four times its actual extent, was about to fall under the dominion of the Roman church. A mission on a great scale was fitted out — the journey was safely accomplished — and excited fancy rioted for a time in the des- scription of palaces and fountains which never existed, and pomp, riches, and re- gal power, utterly unknown in the land. Missions continued from either court during the succeeding forty years. An alliance was formed. Men learned in the arts and sciences were dispatched to set- tle in Abyssinia. Zaga Zaba arrived in Lisbon, invested with full powers to satis- fy the interests of both countries, tempo- ral as well as spiritual. But the difference of faith was now for the first time under- stood. The bitter enmity of the Roman creed stood prominently to view ; and the envoy, after studying the details of the Catholic doctrine, and refusing to sub- scribe a similar contract on behalf of his church, was unscrupulously put to a vio- lent death in a Portuguese prison. The first flattering ideas regarding the religion of the country being thus found erroneous, the delusion respecting the ex- tent and power of the mighty empire was next to fall to the ground. The Gal la were now streaming in hordes from the interior, and Graan, the Mohammadan in- vader carrying fire and sword with his ar- my throughout the country. The dying Coptish patriarch of Abyssinia was pre- vailed upon to nominate as his successor John Bermudez, a resident Portuguese ; and the Romish priest, hurried by the king, proceeded to seek immediate military as- sistance from the courts of Rome and Lisbon. Schemes of ambition flitted over the minds of the first conquerors of India, and an alliance with Ethiopia seemed highly desirable as a handle for further acquisition in the east. But dilatory measures delay- ed the arrival of the Portuguese fleet un- til the suing monarch had been gathered to his fathers ; and it has already been seen that Christopher, the son of the fa- mous Vasco de Gama, anchored in the harbor of Massowah at a time when the new Emperor Claudius was sorely pressed to sustain himself upon the throne of his ancestors. The opportunity was not neg- lected by the archbishop to reduce the heretic church to the fold of the Roman see ; and a series of attempts were com- menced, equally to be deplored from the mischief which they created, and the un- worthy means that were employed during the struggle. The signal service rendered by the Por- tuguese troops during the ensuing wars, the total rout of the Galla and the Moslem, with the slaughter of their invading leader in battle, placed Bermudez in a position to demand high terms from the reinstated monarch. The conversion of the empe- ror to the Roman Catholic faith and the possession of one-third of the kingdom, were imperiously proposed, and scornfully rejected. Excommunication was threat- ened by the proud prelate of the west and utterly disregarded by King Claudius, who retorted, that the pope himself was a her- etic. Open hostilities broke out ; and al- though the superior discipline of the Eu- ropeans for a time gave them the advantage, they were at. length separated by a wily stratagem, and hurried to different. quarters of the kingdom ; and Bermudez being seized, was conveyed in honorable exile to the rugged mountains of Efat. Although much blood and considerable treasure had been thus fruitlessly expend- ed, the conversion of Ethiopia was far from being forgotten in Europe ; and the spark of hope was further kept alive by an Abys- sinian priest, who asserted, on his arrival in Rome, that the failure of Bermudez had entirely arisen from his own absurd and brutal conduct, and f hat the utmost defer- ence would be paid to men of sense and capacity. Ignatius Loyola volunteered to repair in person to reunite the Ethiopic and Roman Catholic churches ; but his talents being required for more important objects, the pope refused the desired per- mission to the great founder of the society of Jesus, and thirteen missionaries from the new order were chosen instead. Nu- nez Baretto was elevated to the dignity of patriarch, and Andre Oviedo appointed pro- visional successor. At that period the navigation of the Red Sea was rendered dangerous by numerous Saracen fleets ; and the patriarch, deeming it inexpedient to hazard his own valuable person in the perils of the voyage, reposed quietly at Goa, while a deputation headed by Gonsalvez Rodrigues, a priest of sec- ondary rank, was dispatched in advance, to ascertain the capabilities of the route, and the sentiments of the reigning mon- arch. The Emperor Claudius little relished the arrival of these monks, and Rodrigues en- tirely failed in every attempt at conviction on the points at issue — that the pope, as representative of Christ upon earth, was the true head of all Christians, and that there was no salvation out of the pale of the Catholic church. Dismissed with the ANDRE OVIEDO— PUBLIC CONTROVERSY. 259 reply that the people of Ethiopia would not lightly abandon the faith of their fore- fathers, the monk retired to work upon the mind of the monarch by the brilliancy of his controversial writing; but a lengthy treatise on the true faith produced no hap- py result, and the envoy, disgusted with his reception, returned shortly afterward to Goa. The spiritual conclave was plunged into consternation by the untoward intelligence ; and after much mature deliberation, it was resolved, that the dignity of the patriarch, and of the great king of Portugal, could not be exposed to the consequences attend- ing the ill favor of the emperor of Abys- sinia ; and that therefore the prelate should still remain the guest of the bishop of Ni- cea, while the daring and restless Oviedo, with a small train of attendants, attempted the business. Arriving in safety,the Jesuit experienced a most friendly reception from the Emperor Claudius ; and although the letters of rec- ommendation from the pope were received with mistrust and impatience, the habitual mildness of the monarch restrained him from any overt act of oppression. Deceived by this calm behavior, the bishop, during a second audience, was sufficiently fool- hardy to represent, in the most insolent language, the enormous errors under which the emperor labored, and to demand impe- ratively whether or not he intended to sub- mit himself to the authority of the succes- sor of St. Peter, and thus remove the heavy obligation under which his empire already groaned. King Claudius replied that he was well inclined toward the Portuguese nation — that he would grant lands and set- tlements in his country — that permission would not be withheld to the private exer- cise of the religion of the West ; but that as the Abyssinian church had been for ages united to the charge of the patriarch of Alexandria, a subject of such serious alter- ation must be canvassed before a full as- sembly of divines. Indignant at what he termed Ethiopian perfidy, but still buoyed up with the faint hope of realizing his object, Oviedo changed his mode of attack, and addressed a labored remonstrance to the monarch, written in the hypocritical tone of false friendship, earnestly entreating him to recall to his remembrance the assistance rendered by Europeans to his afflicted country, and the many promises made by his sire in the day of his urgent distress ; imploring him at the same time to preserve a stern vigilance upon the evil influence of the empress and of the ministers of state : " for in matters of faith, the love of kindred must give way to the love of Christ ; and in similar situa- tions, the nearest relation often proves the bitterest enemy to the salvation of the soul." This insidious reasoning was, however, vainly expended upon the intelligent Clau- dius, and served but to turn his heart far- ther from the Roman and his cause. The offer of a public controversy on points of disputed faith being shortly afterward ac- cepted, the emperor entered the lists in presence of the assembled court, and by his clear knowledge of the Holy Scriptures; utterly defeated the subtilties of the Italian priest ; and thus, notwithstanding the con- viction of the Portuguese missionary that, by supernatural aid, he had triumphantly refuted all the arguments urged by his il- lustrious antagonist, it was fully decreed by the Abyssinian conference, that neither king nor people owed any obligation or obedience whatsoever to the church of Rome. Still Oviedo was far from being reduced (to silence. Treatise after treatise was published on the controversy, to confound the minds of the Ethiopians. The errors of the Alexandrian faith w T ere fiercely at- tacked in every form and fashion ; and the superior beauties of the Catholic religion fully expounded. But no advantage re- sulted. Rejoinders and confutations fol- lowed fast from the insulted clergy ; and the bishop, furious at the thoughts of his futile exertions to gain a footing in the country — entertaining no hope of making one single convert, whether among prince or people — resolved upon a last effort in the struggle. On the fifth of February, 1559, he issued his spiritual ban over the land, proclaiming that the entire nation of Abyssinia, high and low, learned and igno- rant, having refused to obey the church of Rome — practicing the unholy rite of cir- cumcision — scrupling to eat the flesh of the hog and the hare — and indulging in many other flagrant enormities — were de- livered over to the judgment of the spirit- ual court, to be punished in person and goods, in public and in private, by every means the faithful could devise. But the folly of issuing this curious re- script without any means of enforcement was fully appreciated ; and the tyrranical conduct of the bishop did but serve to strengthen the emperor in the bonds of his own faith, finding, as was observed by an historian of the times, " that popery and its wiles were the more dangerous and re- prehensible, as the veil was withdrawn from before the spirit of her tenets." There is every reason to believe that the 260 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA, succeeding invasion of the Ada'i'el was pro- cured through the treacherous design of the Jesuits, but the event again proved dis- astrous to their cause. Although the re- venge of the baffled bishop was allayed in a torrent of blood, yet the death of the mild, moderate, and liberal Claudius, who perished on the battle-field, shed a baneful influence on their ensuing efforts ; and the sceptre devolved into the hands of his bro- ther Adam, a haughty and vindictive prince, who is depicted in Portuguese records as " cruel and hard of heart, and utterly in- sensible to the beauteous mysteries of the Catholic faith." Swearing vengeance against the Latins, to whose treason he attributed the murder of his brother, and the ruin of his country, the new monarch seized all the estates which had been granted to the Portuguese for rendered service, and threatened the bishop and his colleagues with instantane- ous death if they presumed to propagate the errors of the Romish church ; and on a humble remonstrance being attempted, in the violence of his wrath, he rushed upon the missionary with a drawn sword, vow- ing to immolate him on the spot. " The weapon, however," say the holy fathers, " dropped miraculously from his impious hand," and for a season the last extremity of vengeance was exchanged for a system of vile, durance. Portuguese troops in the mean time ar- rived from Goa, and the bahr negash, " the lord of the sea-coast," bought over by the gold of India, and stirred up by the wily emissaries of the viceroy, assembled his forces in rebellion. Marching with his European allies to the capital, he defeated and slew the emperor in a pitched battle, and rescued the Jesuit missionaries from their unpleasant captivity. Warned by former difficulty and distress, the worthy fathers now assumed a more modest and humble demeanor, and were al- lowed to settle again in their old haunt of Maiguagua, where they remained for a time unmolested by the new emperor Ma- lek Sashed, who inherited all the horror of his father to the Catholic creed, although tempered by the mildness of his uncle Claudius. But the jealous monks had not yet relinquished their hope of advancement, and bending to the pressure of the times, the deep plot was veiled under the garb of pas- sive obedience. The most pressing solici- tations were dispatched to Goa for assist- ance ; and the dauntless Oviedo pledged himself with six hundred stanch Europe- ans to convert, not only the empire of Abyssinia, but all the countries adjacent. The scheme, however, did not suit the politics of the day ; and in 1560, the bishop received an order from the head of his so- ciety to repair forthwith to his more prom- ising charge in Japan. Loth to abandon all his favorite projects of ambition in the country, and utterly reckless of truth, he addressed the most specious letters to the pope, holding out a certain prospect of prostrating the church of Ethiopia before the apostolic throne, while to his immedi- ate superior he dilated upon the richness of the land, and the mines of pure gold which he falsely asserted to exist in every province of the kingdom. But his artful motives were thoroughly pierced by the more wily successor of St. Peter; and vessels soon after arrived on the coast of Africa, to convey the reluctant fathers to the monastery of St. Xavier, in Goa. CHAPTER CIII. THE RELIGIOUS WAR. Miserable indeed appeared the chance of conversion ; and after a fierce struggle of thirty years, there remained not one priest of the Romish faith to administer the sacraments to the numerous European settlers and descendants in the country. Even the Jesuits themselves lost heart for the time ; but the zeal of Philip the Sec- ond stirred the dying embers, and fresh candidates for strife, honor, and martyr- dom, were soon in the field. Peter Pero Pays and Antonio de Mont- zerado, disguised as Armenian merchants, first attempted the perilous undertaking ; but being wrecked upon the Arabian coast, they were recognized as Christian minis- ters, and languished during seven years in a Moslem dungeon. Goa next poured forth her priests to the ineffectual contest. In seeking the prom- ised land, Abraham de Georgis was dis- covered in Turkish garb on the island of Massowah, and the governor swore by the holy prophet that, since the kafir had donned the attire of the true believer, he should also adopt the tenets of the true faith, or die the death of a dog. But the Jesuit clung to his creed, and suffered ac- cordingly ; and, shortly afterward, Jean Baptiste being detected in assumed cos- tume, by the Turks of Comera, he also shared the same fate as his immediate predecessor, in the thorny path of martyr- dom. Thus even the road itself seemed *> PETER PAYS— THE REBELLION. 261 close, and all intercourse was denied with a country wherein the presence of Euro- peans was neither desired nor permitted ; and which would have been suffered to re- main unmolested, had not ideas been in- flamed by the exaggerated accounts of its wealth that still pervaded the imagination of all classes throughout the western world. Don Alexis de Menezez, the zealous Archbishop of Goa, who had already with fire and sword propagated Christianity throughout Malabar, now entered the lists, and his sagacious and discerning mind selected the vicar of St. Anne as a fit tool for the execution of his project. Mel- chior Sylva, a converted Brahmin, might from his color and language, pass through the Turkish wicket. His zeal was great as that of his superior, and the valuable presents whereof he was made the bearer, might prove a bait sufficiently tempting to lure the simple Abyssinian into a fresh connection. The intelligence of his safe arrival, and of the gracious reception of the presents, again roused the ardent spirit of the order of Jesus ; and Peter Pays was quickly ransomed from the Arabs, and dispatched with a full train of priests to Ethiopia, where he arrived in September of the year 1603. Superior in every respect to his prede- cessors, this missionary, instead of attempt- ing to carry his measures by force and overbearing insolence, sought the softer path of insinuation ; and while his exten- sive knowledge and plausible address proved strong recommendations in his fa- vor, many circumstances also conspired to forward his views. The country was in a most unsettled state, and the assistance of a few Portuguese troops could turn the scale of war. The condition of the church was low and miserable. Eighty years of incessant strife and distraction had crush- ed the very name of learning and literature. Few persons were to be found who could read, write, or dispute. Ignorant and un- worthy men filled every sacred office ; and the ancient stout defenders of the Alex- andrian faith had been swept away on the battle-field. Amid wars, and rumors of wars, Peter quietly settled with his followers at Mai- guagua. Schools were opened, and the wonder ran through the land that youths of tender age could refute the most learn- ed sages of the wilderness of Walkayet. The curiosity of Za Dengel, the tempo- rary occupant of the throne, was excited, and Peter and his erudite pupils was sum- moned to the court. Prompted by the hope of obtaining as- sistance from Portugal, this weak prince, under an oath of secrecy, immediately em- braced the religion of his guest. But his time was fully occupied in the more world- ly object of strengthening himself upon a throne to which he had been elevated by his evil genius ; and the falling away from the faith of his forefathers being at length whispered abroad, a rebellion was the con- sequence. The approaching storm having been perceived by the monk, he withdrew from court before the burst of a revolution, which for some time crushed his every hope of success. The emperor was slain. New aspirants strove for the ascendency ; and war reigned for a season throughout the entire land. Confident in the near approach of Por- tuguese troops, which had been requested when Sylva carried to India the tidings of the first conversion, Peter now resolved upon the bold game of espousing the weaker party, and thus gaining a firmer hold in event of success. The expected reinforcements did not, however, arrive in time ; and the defeat and death of his pro- tege was followed by the advancement of the pretender Susneus to the throne of the empire. Notwithstanding his appearance as a de- clared partisan in the opposing ranks, Peter's abilities as an architect now created a fresh diversion in his favor. The novel idea of a two-storied edifice engrossed the thoughts of the reigning king ; and men flocked from the remotest parts of the country to gaze upon a fabric of stone, which was considered to be one of the wonders of the world. A missionary pos- sessing the varied abilities and acquire- ments of Pays could not be long in gain- ing ascendency over a rude and illiterate monarch ; and by address and perseve- rance he had soon effected that which the threats and violence of his predecessors had vainly attempted during a long course of years. Ras Cella Christos, brother to the em- peror, was the first fruit of the harvest. Partaking of the holy supper with the Lat- ins, he publicly embraced their religion, and many chiefs and nobles followed his illustrious example. Crowded assemblies were held, in which the eloquence of the Jesuits entirely bore down the feeble ef- forts of the ignorant and uncultivated na- tives. The holiness of life which was strictly preserved among the neophytes 262 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. and proselytes of the Catholics, added to the impression entertained of their wisdom, and the introduction of useful arts, raised the glory of the fathers still higher in the land ; and the prospect of the aid of disci- plined soldiers from the west overturned the last remaining scruple in the mind of the monarch. An edict was published interdicting all persons from holding office who were not well inclined toward the Latin religion ; and severe punishments were threatened for the promulgation of ancient doctrines. Assistance was solicited from Rome and Lisbon ; and the work of European perse- cution favorably commenced, by scourging with whips all those stubborn monks who refused to forego their ancient belief. Abba Simeon, the aboon, repaired to the court to remonstrate with the emperor on the scandalous interference with his pre- rogatives in convening meetings and au- thorizing debates upon ecclesiastical mat- ters ; but his pride was timely soothed by the royal assurance that all had been un- dertaken for the benefit of true religion, and that the subject should be fully dis- cussed in his own presence. Again the subtilties and dialectic of the missionaries prevailed ; and the total defeat of the aboon and his clergy was followed by a second more severe ordinance, awarding the pen- alty of death to all who should henceforth deny the two natures of Christ. Wonderful was the sensation created by this severe edict, so diametrically at vari- ance with the mild spirit of religion, and with all the ancient usages of the land. Aware of the fe lings of the strong party at court, as well as of the entire body of the people, the aboon placarded on the doors of the chapels an excommunication of all who should accept the religion of the Franks ; and the monarch, irritated by this resistance, published a manifesto, "That his subjects should forthwith embrace the Catholic faith." This served as the signal trumpet for the fight. All classes armed themselves in defence of their religion ; and iElius, the king's son-in-law, placed himself at the head of the malcontents in Tigre. Not yet thoroughly prepared for the struggle, the emperor found it convenient for a time to temporize, and requested one further debate, which was to prove final between the disputants. The mild aboon listened to the proposal, and accompanied by a large train of monks appeared in the Toyal camp, while the Jesuit and his col- leagues advanced into the arena from the opposite side. The controversy was re- newed, and raged fiercely for six days ; but disputes in religion are seldom adjusted by the reasoning of the doctors, and the parties withdrew mutually incensed against each other. One further effort was made to restore the disturbed harmony. The Empress Hamilmala, and many of the courtiers, with tears implored the king to desist from his undertaking ; and the patriarch and the clergy, throwing themselves prostrate on the earth, embraced his knees, and en- treated him to turn a deaf ear to the poison- ous insinuations of the deceitful Jesuits, and graciously to allow his subjects to re- main faithful to the religion of their fore- fathers. But the heart of the monarch remained closed to the prayer. The aboon quitted the court, plunged into the deepest distress, and a bloody war ensued which shook the empire to its foundation. When iElius fully understood the last resolution taken by his father-in-law, to defend the Catholics and their religion, he publicly appealed to the people of Tigre, and proclaimed that all who were disposed to embrace the Jesuitical faith might re- pair to the deluded emperor, while those who held to the ancient belief should forth- with gather under his standard. Finding himself shortly afterward at the head of a large army, he marched toward the royal camp, resolved to establish the received doctrine of the land, or to perish in the attempt. Abba Simeon, who had attained the venerable age of one hundred years, joined the army of the defenders of the Alexan- drian faith ; and in giving them his patri- archal blessing, assured the soldiery that all who should fall in the combat died the death of the martyr, and would receive the reward in heaven. The desired effect was produced, and the hearts of the entire force burned with one eager zeal to meet the accursed enemies of their religion. On the appearance of the inflamed force a reconciliation was attempted, and the daughter of the emperor was made the bearer of terms to her rebel lord. Her tears and entreaties were, however, totally disregarded. The impetuous youth pre-i pared for instant attack ; and the princess! had barely time to regain her father's tent, when hostilities were commenced. The soldiers of the viceroy rushed furi- ously upon the royal encampment, and ^Elius succeeded in forcing his way, at the head of a small body of troops, to the veqjfl pavilion of his father-in-law. But he was here struck from his horse by a stone, and stabbed upon the ground. A panic seized FALL OF JOANEL— THE DEVOTED MONKS. 263 the army of the fallen leader, and the rab- ble, casting away their arms, fled in all directions. The aged aboon found himself alone and deserted, in the same spot which he had occupied during the attack. His years and high clerical bearing disarmed the vio- lence of the Abyssinian soldiery; but a Portuguese partisan at length threw him- self upon the patriarch, and, regardless of his white and venerable hairs, transfixed him with a spear. A frightful massacre ensued ; and the heads of the principal leaders of the unsuccessful rebellion were exposed on the gates of the capital, as a bloody warning to the seditious. CHAPTER CIV. TEMPORARY SUBMISSION TO THE POPE OF ROME. Strengthened by this signal victory, other points of the Alexandrian creed were attacked in succession ; and the time of the Jesuits was fully occupied in the trans- lation into Ethiopic of sundry dogmatical treatises on subjects of disputed faith. But the barbarism of the language was despi- sed by most — the Latin interpolation ab- horred as magic by all — and a furious paper controversy raged for a time ; until the Abyssinians becoming scurrilous, the wrath of the monarch was again roused, and lie issued a severe edict, w T herein the people were forbidden from celebrating the Jew- ish Sabbath, which from time immemorial had hitherto been sacred. The inhabitants of Begemeder flew to arms ; and people from all parts of the country, groaning under the yoke of for- eign oppression, poured in to join the stand- ard of rebellion which Joanel had reared on the plains of his government. A horde of Galla, delighting in the confusion, offer- ed their assistance, and the most haughty conditions were speedily conveyed to court from a large assembly in arms. Again the most earnest entreaties were employed to induce the emperor to com- promise ; but influenced by the words of the Jesuits, he called together his principal chieftains, monks, and learned men, and in their presence solemnly declared that he would defend the Catholic religion to the last drop of his blood ; adding, that it was the first duty of his subjects to obey their legitimate monarch. Energetic measures were forthwith agreed upon, and, at the head of a large array, the king proceeded in person to the war. Joanel, finding him- self too weak to contend in the plains, withdrew to the inaccessible mountains, where a blockade by the royal troops soon caused a scarcity of provisions. His forces gradually deserted ; and he himself escap- ing to the Galla, was pursued, betrayed, and put to death. This reverse sustained by the defenders of the old cause did not, however, intimi- date the inhabitants of Damot, a province situated on the banks of the Nile ; for scarcely had the emperor reached his capi- tal, when the population rose en masse with the determination of dethroning a monarch who so basely truckled to a foreign yoke, and of driving from the land the authors of its distraction. An army of fourteen thou- sand warriors was speedily organized ; and monks and hermits, burning with zeal in the cause, emerged from the cave and from the wilderness to join the fast-swelling ranks. Ras Cella Christos marched against the rebels, but desertion considerably thinned his troops ; and he confronted the enemy with barely one half the numerical strength of their formidable array. Governor of the province, and greatly beloved by the peo- ple, a proposal was tendered to him, that if he would only lend his assistance in burn- ing the monkish books and hanging the worthy fathers themselves upon tall trees, he might be seated upon the imperial throne of his ancestors. But the general, despi- sing the offer, and resting confident in the firelocks of the Portuguese, rushed to the attack. The combat raged fiercely for a time. Four hundred monks, devoting them- selves to death, carried destruction through the royal host ; but the tide of victory set at length in his favor, and after a fearful carnage on either side, he found himself master of the field. Great rejoicings at court followed the news of this success. Peter declared that Heaven, by the extermination of his ene- mies, had given the desired sign that the Roman Catholic should be the religion of the land ; and the emperor, who, partly from fear of his subjects, and partly from dislike to relinquish his supernumerary wives and concubines, had not as yet publicly pro- fessed the Latin religion, now openly em- braced the faith, and confessed his sins to the triumphant Jesuit. A letter containing the royal sentiments was published for the benefit of the nation : " The king henceforth obeys the pope of Rome, the successor of Peter, chief of the apostles, who could neither err in doctrine nor in conduct ; and all subjects are Jiereby 264 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. advised to adopt the same creed." And the missionary, who now reasonably imagined that the work was satisfactorily concluded, wrote to the courts of Rome and Lisbon, requesting that a patriarch and twenty ec- clesiastics might be immediately sent to the vineyard ; adding, that " although the harvest was plentiful, the laborers were but few." These happy and unlooked-for tidings were received by Philip the Fourth of Spain. Mutio Vitelesi, the general of the Jesuits, offered to proceed in person, but the pope refused permission, as had been the case with his predecessor Loyala ; and Alphonzo Mendez, a learned doctor of the society of Jesus, was inaugurated at Lis- bon with all the customary solemnities. After suffering much difficulty and delay in his passage, the Portuguese patriarch at length arrived on the Danakil coast with a large train of priests, servants, masons, and musicians. The same greediness and cupidity were experienced among the sav- age Adaiel that the traveller finds at the present day — baseness and avarice having stamped their character for generations ; but the troubles of a weary march were soon forgotten in the cordial reception which awaited the party at the royal camp ; and the day was finally fixed when the homage of the king and of the country should be rendered to the pope of Rome. On the 1 1th of February, 1626, the court and the nobles of the land were assembled in the open air. Two rich thrones were occupied by the monarch and his distin- guished guest, and a surrounding multi- tude gazed upon the imposing ceremony in silence. " The hour is come,'' exclaim- ed Mendez, " when the king shall satisfy the debt of his ancestors, and submit him- self and his people to the only true head of the church." A copy of the gospel was produced, and the monarch falling upon his knees, took the oath of homage. " We, king of the kings of Ethiopia, believe and confess that the pope of Rome is the true successor of the Apostle St. Peter, and that he holds the same power, dignity, and dominion, over the whole Christian church. Therefore we promise, offer, and swear sincere obedience to the holy father Urban, by God's grace pope and our lord, and throw humbly at his feet our person and our king- dom." As the emperor rose from his position, Ras Cella Christos, suddenly drawing his sword, shouted aloud, " What is now done is done for ever ; and whoso in future dis- claims the act, shall taste the sharp edge of this trusty weapon. I do homage only to true Catholic kings." The monks, cler- gy, and noblemen followed the example of their superiors ; and the assembly was closed by a public edict, proclaimed through the royal herald, that all Abyssinians should, under pain of death, forthwith embrace the Roman religion. Palaces and revenues were set apart for the ministers of the new faith ; semina- ries for youth were established throughout the country, and baptism and ordination went on in peace. The success of the Jesuits increased rapidly, and many thou- sand souls were enrolled, who had been converted from the delusions of the Alex- andrian creed. The trial of two years failed, however, to convince the nation of the benefits of the true religion ; and the emperor and the patriarchs could not de- ceive themselves in the fact that the cause advanced rather in appearance than in re- ality. Missionaries who entered the na- tive churches were found murdered in their beds ; the most disparaging stories were everywhere circulated regarding the holy fathers, and more particularly on the representation of scriptural performances at the Paschal feast, when demons being introduced by the Romans upon the stage, the spectators rushed simultaneously from the theatre, exclaiming, " Alas ! they have brought with them devils from the infernal regions," and the tale spread like wildfire through the land. Nothing daunted by the unfortunate fate of iElius and Joanel, Tekla Georgis, anoth- er son-in-law of the emperor, with a large body of the discontented, rose to defend the religion of their forefathers. Burning the crosses and rosaries, together with a Jesuit priest who fell into their hands, the party rapidly increased, and the emperor was compelled to march an army to quell the insurrection. The rebels were com- pletely routed by Rexabus the viceroy of Tigre, and all who fell into his hands, men, women, and children, were barbarously massacred. Georgis and his sister Adera concealed themselves in a cave, during three days, but were at length discovered and brought before the irritated emperor. . Condemned by the advice of the Jesuits to .. be burned to death as a heretic, Georgis was allowed by the monarch publicly to solicit the patriarch to be admitted into the Roman church ; but it being afterward considered politic to imagine that his intentions w#re in- sincere, the unfortunate prince was hung in front of the palace in presence of the whole court ; and his devoted sister, fif- teen days afterward suffered the same fate upon the same tree, notwithstanding that MOUNTAINEERS OF BEGEMEDER. 265 the most strenuous efforts were made to save her life by the queen and by all classes of society. To increase the dread effects of his tyr- anny, the emperor now issued a manifesto, that even as he had punished with death the obstinacy of his own son-in-law, so would he of a surety not spare any who in future committed a like transgression. The remarks of the worthy missionary Antoine, regarding this execution, will show the spirit which animated the fathers in the course of this persecution, so novel in the annals of Abyssinia, and so contrary to the mildness of the Christian faith. " He who reads with attention the history of Ethiopia, will observe that at no previous period was such ardent zeal displayed for the honor of religion, and a direct miracle, indeed, must have induced the emperor to hang his own son-in-law in the blessed cause." Dazzled by the success that had hitherto attended their measures, the patriarch and his colleagues now plunged headlong into proceedings which eventually proved dis- astrous to their cause. Excommunications were lightly launched in civil disputes, and the souls of the royal counsellors of the state were committed to the devil for da- ring to question the authority of the foreign priest. Conspiracies were hatched against the imperial person ; and the body of a distin- guished nonconforming ecclesiastic, which had been interred within the Walls of the church, was exhumed by the orders of the Portuguese prelate, and thrown to the wild beasts — an action which raised the indig- nation, of the Ethiopians to the highest pitch against a set of men " who had ever the words of religion in the mouth, but who, after persecuting the living, denied even to the dead that repose which neither Pa- gan nor Mohammadan ever disturbed." The detestation of the fathers and their religion daily waxed stronger in the hearts of all. Their great patron, Ras Cella Christos, was deprived of power and pro- perty for seditious attempts ; and the bold mountaineers of Begemeder at length seiz- ed their long spears to uphold the faith oi their ancestors. The viceroy was driven from the province, and Melaxus, » youth of royal blood, appointed defender of the ancient religion, and leader of the armed host of peasants who flocked to his stand- ard from all parts of the country, but espe- cially from Lasta, the seat of the bravest warriors of the land. To quell this insurrection, the emperor assembled in Gojam an army of twenty-five thousand men, and attacked the insurgents 18 among their strongholds. His troops were, however, repulsed at all points, with the loss of many officers and men, and he was reluctantly obliged to retreat to the plains. Deputies followed from the victorious camp, to supplicate him to take pity upon his sub- jects, and to dismiss those evil-minded strangers who had so long oppressed Abys- sinia. The royal army was in no heart or condition to renew hostilities. Rumors went through the land, that angels sent from heaven had proclaimed the restoration of the ancient religion ; and in the general excitement the king perceived that his own authority would be fatally compromised un- less some concessions were made. The patriarch was nevertheless inflexi- ble ; and letters were at the same time re- ceived from Rome, instigating the emperor to combat stoutly with his rebellious sub- jects, and extending to Ethiopia the gen- eral absolution of the great year of Jubilee. But the unhappy inhabitants laughed the offer of this indulgence to scorn, and were utterly unable to comprehend by what au- thority the pope held in his possession the keys of the kingdom of heaven. CHAPTER CV. EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS FROM ETHIOPIA. The civil war continued, meanwhile, to rage with great expenditure of life, and with alternate success on either side. En- ticed into the plain, the enemy were gen- erally worsted by the royal troops; but among the recesses oi their native rocks the mountaineers had always the advan- tage. No sign of intended submission could be observed ; And the monarch, becoming suspicious of the Jesuits, who were erecting forts and strongholds under the guise of church^ and residences, lent a favorable ear Xo the entreaties of his subjects. A second remonstrance was penned, wherein he forcibly set forth to the Portu- guese bishop "that the Roman religion had not been introduced into the country by the miracles or the preaching of the fathers, but by royal edict and ordinance, in oppo- sition to the wish of the entire population ; and that the prelate must devise some milder measures for the furtherance of the true faith." Foreseeing a heavy storm in abeyance in case of refusal, Mendez reluctantly com- plied with the proposal of a modified church code, under the restriction that no public manifesto should announce the change, 266 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. which must be gradually and silently in- troduced. The ancient liturgy and the an- cient holydays were thus restored, and the celebration of the Jewish Sabbath once again permitted. But the concession was insufficient, and came too late to pacify the turbulent moun- taineers of Lasta, who had been altogether victorious during the war. They would listen to no modification of their first de- mand ; but imperatively insisted upon the complete reestablishment of their ancient ecclesiastical institution, together with the expulsion of the foreigners from the land. The liberty and the customs of high- landers are seldom invaded with success ; and a religion detested by the common people cannot, without much difficulty, be introduced by the prince. Weary of so many rebellions, and murders, and excom- munications, the king, in his advanced age, began to view with an unfavorable eye the firebrand authors of these disturbances. Suspecting his brother and the patriarch of seditious views — offended by the contuma- cy of his subjects, and the increasing di- minution of his own authority — disgusted with the present state of affairs, and appre- hensive of future events — he now serious- ly bethought him of restoring the church to its original footing. But the rebellion must, in the first instance, be quelled ; and having with this view concluded an alli- ance with the Galla, he marched toward Lasta. Twenty thousand peasants, confident of victoiy, descending from their mountains, rushed into the plain to meet the royal force. The two armies for a time re- mained in sight, in that still calmness which precedes the earthquake. At length the Galla cavalry dashing at speed on the crowded masses of the enemy, threw them into complete confusion — a fierce combat lasted until the going down of die sun — and the field of battle was left covered with eight thousand bodies of the insurgent. Throwing themselves prostrate before the triumphant monarch on this scene of carnage, the vanquished peasants expressed their grief in the following lively terms : "Who are these men," they asked with groans, " who you now behold bathed in blood ? Are they Moslem, or Pagan, or even the enemies of the kingdom? No, they are Christians — they are all thy sub- jects, knit together by the most tender bonds of blood, friendship, and affection. Tl ose warriors who now lie lifeless at thy feet, would, under a better government, have proved the bulwarks of thy throne, and the terror of those very men by whose hands they have fallen. The pagans even blush at thy cruelty, and call thee renegade for having abandoned the religion of thy fathers. Cease, O emperor ! in mercy cease to prolong a struggle which must end in the downfal of the throne, and the ruin of all religion in the land I" The empress also mingled her tears with the groans of the wounded petitioners, and adjured the king for the love of God, and in the name of future generations, to take pity upon his subjects, and desist from preparing a sepulchre for himself and for his family. " What have you gained by this battle ?" she exclaimed, " You have introduced into the kingdom hordes of pa- gan Galla, who detest yourself equally with your religion ; but futile will be your at- tempt to establish in Ethiopia a form of worship which is unknown to the greater part of your people, and to the remainder is known only to be resisted to the last drop of their blood." These representations sunk deep into the heart of the emperor ; and instead of proceeding in triumph to his capital, he retired to a secluded spot to give vent to his feelings, and bewail the loss he had created. The Galla troops were dismiss- ed ; and having collected all the principal monks and clergy, he announced his reso- lution of allowing the nation to return to the faith of their forefathers. Immediately on this intelligence, the patriarch hurried with all the Jesuit fathers to soothe the ruffled mood of the monarch. " I had fondly imagined," exclaimed Men- dez, " that we were the victors, but behold we are the vanquished; and the rebels, routed and put to flight, have obtained all that they desire. Call to mind how many fields thou hast won with the assistance of God and the Portuguese, and remember that thou didst embrace the true faith of thine own free will. We have been sent unto thy charge by the pope of Rome, and by the king of Portugal. Beware of irri- tating great potentates to just indignation. They be indeed far off, but God is nigh at hand; and thy apostacy will defile thy name and that of thy nation, and will leave an everlasting tarnish upon the Lion of the tribe of Judah which now glitters in the standard of Ethiopia." On the conclusion of this harangue, all threw themselves at his feet, and entreated an immediate order to execution, rather than a confirmation from his lips of the rash resolution that he had taken. Retaining a too lively recollection of the streams of blood that had been poured out upon the plains of Lasta, the emperor THE ANCIENT RELIGION RESTORED. 287 quietly allowed the Jesuits to arise, and, unmoved by their earnest prayers and en- treaties, replied shortly, "that his adhe- rence to the Catholic faith had already Caused the slaughter of a great portion of his subjects, and that he would have no further dealings whatever with their doc- trines." The film fell from before the eyes of the discomfited monks. The friends of the Alexandrian faith . rallying roun d the throne, united their utmost efforts to strengthen the emperor in his resolves ; and the ru- mor spread abroad that on the fast of St. John the Baptist the ancient religion was to be reestablished throughout the land. Thousands assembled in the capital on that day to assist in the ceremony ; and, al- though temporarily disappointed, the event clearly proved that this act of justice could no longer be safely delayed. Every art and stratagem was still resort- ed to by the patriarch to put off the evil day ; but the emperor, roused at length by the harsh and uncompromising character of the Jesuit, fiercely exclaimed, " Has, then, the sceptre departed from mine hand for ever ?" — and the royal trumpets sud- denly sounded through the streets of Gon- dar, as the herald announced the following proclamation to the empire : " Listen and hear ! We formerly re- commended to you the adoption of the Roman Catholic creed, on the firm convic- tion that it was the only true one ; but numbers of our subjects having sacrificed their lives for the religion of their ances- tors, we henceforth accord its free exercise unto all. Let the priests resume posses- sion of their churches, and worship the God of their forefathers. Farewell, and rejoice." It is impossible to describe the rapture with which this welcome edict was re- ceived. The praises of the emperor re- sounded from every quarter. The rosaries and the chaplets of the Jesuits were tossed out of doors, and burned in a heap. Men and women danced for joy in the streets, and the song of liberation burst from the lips of the disenthralled multitude. " The flock of Ethiopia has escaped from the hyenas of the West. The doctrine of St. Mark is the column of our church. Let all rejoice and sing hallelujahs, For the sun of our deliverance has lighted up the land." Thus perished the hopes of a mission, which, for craft and cruelty, has been sel- dom equalled in the annals of time. While Rome must indeed have been prompted by no ordinary motive to persevere so perti- naciously in a work of conversion, through 18* all the horrors of banishment and martyr- dom, the unworthy means resorted to by the dauntless but unsuccessful agents em- ployed in the enterprise have left an indel- ible stain upon the page of her history. CHAPTER CVI. THE CHURCH, SECOND GREAT POWER IN SHOA. Christianity is the national religion, over the more elevated portions of Abys- sinia ; but the wild Galla has overrun her fairest provinces, and located himself in her most pleasant places — the bigoted Moslem crowds thick upon the skirts of her distracted empire, and the tenets that she professes are base, foolish, and degra- ding. Engrafted on the superstitions of the Jew, the Mohammadan, and the Pagan — promulgated by rude and ignorant men — and received by a people emerging only into the first stage of civilization — the light of religion must have been feeble, even in the beginning ; but as it was imparted, so it still remains. Sects and parties have arisen, and province has been banded against province in all the fiery wrath of the zealot ; but, lost in the maze of subtle controversy, these internal wars have raged for generations without disturbing the orig- inal doctrine ; and the same errors of the church prevail to this day throughout the land, as when first propounded in the be- ginning of the fourth century. The aboon, or archbishop, is the spiritual chief of Ethiopia. Consecrated by the pa- triarch of Alexandria, and possessing with rich revenues the intelligence of other lands, the primate is universally feared and respected throughout the empire, and all religious differences and dissensions must be carried for the final decision of his holi- ness. Princes and rulers pay implicit de- ference to his high behest, and, seated on the ground before his episcopal throne, receive with the utmost respect his every wish and advice. Feuds* and quarrels be- twixt state and state are satisfactorily ar- ranged in his presence ; and war, tyranny, and violence are controlled by his all-com- manding voice of mildness and benevo- lence. But while his influence is thus potent, the extent of his diocese is also great ; and many local difficulties opposing the pastoral visit to the extremities of his see, the kingdom of Shoa has for ages been deprived of the advantages accruing from the residence of an archbishop. 268 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. In the hand of the aboon is vested the exclusive power of consecration. Bishops, priests, and deacons can from him alone receive holy office. He only it is who grants absolution for heavy offences against either God or man ; and the ark of a church, whether newly constructed or polluted by the unhallowed touch of a Mohammadan, must be purified by his hands with the holy merom, before being entitled to that high adoration which it thenceforward receives. The second place in spiritual dignity is filled by the etchegue, the grand prior of the monks of Debra Libanos. Seated on the throne of Tekla Haimanot, one of the first founders of the orders of Seclusion, he engrosses the management of all the various monastic establishments through- out the land, and in his hands remains the charge of the existing literature and edu- cation. Deeply versed in the subtilties of theology, his opinion is held of the highest import in the never-ceasing disputes upon the uninteresting subjects of false faith which occupy the mind of the Abyssinian divine ; but his authority extends only to the simple admittance into the monkish order, and to granting absolution for the minor offences of evil thought, and pre- scribed fast neglected. The comus, or bishop, who ranks next above the priest, is without diocese or even authority over the inferior members of the church ; and his peculiar function is to bless and purify the sacred ark, should it accidentally receive the impure touch of deacon or layman ; to repeat the prayer of admission, and sign the cross on the skull- cap of the candidate for monastic seclu- sion ; and to afford absolution for trivial offences against the conscience. Twelve thousand clerical drones, " Fruges consumere nati," fatten in idleness on the labor of the work- ing classes ; and the kiss imprinted on the hand of one of these licentious shepherds being believed to purify the body from all sin, they are treated with the highest re- spect and veneration, are fed and caressed both by high and low, and invariably ad- dressed as " father." Upon payment each of a few pieces of salt, many hundred candidates receive the breath of the Holy Ghost from the aboon in a single day ; but every Abyssinian be- l ing ignorant of his own age, it is essential to the reception of priestly orders that the beard should have appeared. Deacons are chosen from among boys and children, be- cause on reaching maturity the life of the adult is not always distinguished by that spotless purity which is held indispensable. The juvenile novices are present during divine service in the capacity of servitors, and they complete the requisite number at the administration of the holy commu- nion. The father confessor is bound to the strictest secrecy ; and it is believed that on this point a dread oath is taken before ordination, when all the mysteries of re- ligion are expounded by the aboon, and especially those which have reference to the preparation of bread for the holy sup- per. In a small house styled Bethlehem, which rises immediately behind every church, the mysterious ceremony is per- formed. The deacon can alone bake the cake ; and the most vigilant guard is inva- riably preserved against the approach or intrusion of females or other improper visi- tors during the hour of solemn preparation. Certain revenues and estates are set apart for the support of each clerical establishment; and to insure the proper distribution, an alaka, or chief, is selected by the monarch from either class of so- ciety. While a successful foray is inva- riably followed by donations from the throne, the safe return from a journey is acknowledged by an offering on the part of all private individuals ; and the shade of the venerable juniper-trees, which adorn the church-yard on the summit of the greenest knolls, is ever crowded with groups of sleek, hooded priests, who bask in the enjoyment of idle indulgence. There are perhaps more churches in Abyssinia than in any other part of the Christian world ; and he who has erected one believes that he has atoned for every sin. But even the best are very misera- ble edifices of wattle plastered with mud, only to be distinguished from the surround- ing hovels by a thin coating of whitewash, which is dashed over the outside to point with the finger of pride to the peculiar privilege of the two great powers in the land. Circular in form, with a door to each quarter of the compass, and a conical thatch, the apex is surmounted by a brazen cross, which is usually adorned with os- trich eggs ; and the same depraved and heathenish taste pervades the decorations of the interior. Sculpture is strictly for- bidden ; but the walls are bedaubed with paintings of the partron saint of the church, the blessed Virgin, and a truly incongru- ous assemblage of cherubim and fallen, angels, with the evil one himself enveloped in hell flames. Timbrels and crutches depend in picturesque confusion from the bare rafters of the roof ; no ceiling protects THE HOLY TABOT— DIVINE SERVICE. 269 alone, pagan, forced are in the head from the descent of the lizard and the spider; and the tout ensemble of the slovenly Abyssinian church presents the strangest imaginable picture of cobweb finery. The Jewish temple consisted of three distinct divisions — the fore-court, the holy, and the holy of holies. To the first lay- men were admitted, to the second only the priest, and to the third the high priest All entrance was denied to the a custom which is rigorously en- in Abyssinia ; and her churches ike manner divided into three parts. Eight feet in breadth, the first compart- ment stretches, after the fashion of a cor- ridor, entirely around the building. It is styled Kene Mdhelet,a,nd, strewed through- out with green rushes, forms the scene of morning worship. To the right of the en- trance is the seat of honor for priests and erudite scribes; and beyond this court, save on certain occasions, the bare foot of the unlearned layman cannot pass. Makdas is the second compartment. This is the sanctuary in which the priests officiate, and a corner is set apart for lay- men during the administration of the holy supper, while a cloth screens the myste- ries of the interior. Here also hang, ar- ranged around the walls, the bones of many deceased worthies, which have been carefully gathered from the newly opened sepulchre, and are deposited by the hand of the priest in cotton bags. By the near- est relative, the first opportunity is em- braced of transporting these mouldering emblems of mortality to the sacred resting- place of Debra Libanos, where the living and the dead are alike blessed with a rich treasure of righteousness, since the re- mains of Tekla Haimanot, the patron saint of Abyssinia, still shed a bright halo over the scene of his miracles upon earth. To Kedis Kcdisen, the holy of holies, none but the alaka is admitted. Behind its veil the sacrament is consecrated, the communion vessels are deposited, and the tremendous mysteries of the tabot, or ark of the covenant, are shrouded from the eyes of the uninitiated. The gold of the foreigner has penetrated the secret of the contents of this box, which are nothing more than a scroll of parchment, on which is inscribed the name of the patron saint of the church ; but the priest, who dared to open his lips on the subject to one of his own countrymen, would incur the heavy penalties due to the sacrilege. The most ridiculous exploits are record- ed of Menilek the son of Solomon and the queen of Sheba, who crowned along course of iniquity by plundering the temple of Jerusalem. The true ark of Zion is be- lieved still to exist in the church at Axum ; but prayers, vows, and oblations, are equal- ly made to the handicraft of any vain ec- clesiastic, which may be held up to the admiring multitude as having been secreted in a cave during the inroad of the con- quering Graan, and since revealed by a miraculous dream from Heaven. In the presence of the mysterious cask- et consists the only sanctity of the church. Heretics alone doubt of its inherent vir- tues ; and every individual who professes Christianity, must during life make his vows and oblations to the one he has se- lected, in order that after death he may enjoy the privilege of interment under its sacred influence. Young and old, rich and poor, prostrate themselves to the ground as the idol is carried in procession through the streets under the great um- brellas ; and when replaced in his case in the holy of holies, the air is rent by the attendant priests with shouts of " The .temple of the eternal God !" All the disqualifications of the Levitical law oppose entrance to the sacred edifice, and both the threshold and the door-posts must be kissed in passing. Like the Jews, the Abyssinians invariably commence the service with the trisagion, " Holy, holy, holy is God, the Lord of Sabaoth." The sweet singer of Israel danced before the Lord, and a caricature imitation remains, the chief point of Abyssinian worship. Capering and beating the ground with their feet, the priests stretch out their crutches toward each other with frantic gesticulations, while the clash of the tim- brel, the sound of the drum, and the howl- ing of harsh voices, complete a most strange form of devotion. The lessons are taken partly from the Scriptures, partly from the miracles of the holy Virgin and of Tekla Haimanot, the life of saint George, and other foolish and fabulous works ; but all are in the ancient Ethiopic tongue, which to the congregation is a dead letter ; and the sole edification of a visit to the church is therefore comprised in the kiss that has been imprinted on the portal. In order to obtain the desired and envia- ble position of eating the bread of com- parative idleness, a sacrifice is indispen- sable. The priest is restricted to the possession of a single wife ; and on her demise or infidelity, no second marriage is authorized. A small portion of lore must, moreover, be imbibed — the Psalms of David must be carefully conned — and the mysteries of Abyssinian song and 370 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. dance be fully penetrated, before the sacred office can be attained. The lessons of early youth are, however, speedily forgot- ten, and the constant repetition of the same words removes the necessity of re- taining the character. Few in after years can read — still fewer respect the vow of chastity — and the employment of the morn- ing hours of the Sabbath, and of the holy- days, in dancing and shouting within the walls of the church, entitle the performer to all the immunities and comforts per- taining unto holy orders. In every clerical conclave the king pos- sesses the supreme voice of authority ; and the despotic monarch may in Shoa be justly regarded as the head of his own church. .Loss of office is the great pun- ishment inflicted by the spiritual court, which is composed of the assembled mem- bers of the individual church, and degra- dation is followed by the expulsion of the offending brother from the community. But the great hall of justice is not unfre- quently graced with the presence of the refractory priest ; and fetters in the dun- geon, or banishment from the realm, main- tain a wholesome fear of the royal power of investigation in matters ecclesiastical. The monk is admitted to the order of his choice by any officiating priest. A prayer is repeated, the skull-cap blessed with the sign of the cross, and the cere- mony is complete. But a more imposing rite attends the oath of celibacy before the aboon. The clergy assemble in numbers, and fires are lighted around the person of the candidate. His loins are bound about with the leathern girdle of saint John, and the prayer and the requiem for the dead rise pealing from the circle. The Glaswa — a narrow strip of black cloth adorned with colored crosses — is then placed on the shaven crown, and shrouded from view by the enveloping shawl ; and the arch- bishop, clad in his robes of state, having repeated the concluding prayer and bless- ing, signs with his own hand the emblem of faith over the various parts of the body. Education was in former days to be ob- tained alone from the inmate of the mo- nastic abode ; and a life of scanty food, aus- terity, and severe fasting, was embraced only by the more enthusiastic. But the skin-cloak, and the dirty head-dress, now envelope the listless monk, who, satisfied with a dreamy and indolent existence, basks during the day on the grassy banks of the sparkling rivulet, and prefers a bare sufficiency of coarse fare from the hand of royal charity, to the sweeter morsel earned by the sweat of the brow. Priest-ridden and bigoted to the last de- gree, the chains of bondage are firmly riv- eted around the neck of the infatuated Abyssinian. The most ridiculous doctrines must be believed, and the most severe fasts and penances must be endured, ac- cording to the pleasure and the fiat of the church. Uncharitable and uncompromis- ing, her anger often blazes forth into the furious blast of excommunication ; and for offences the most trivial, the souls of men are consigned to eternal perdition. Fasts, penances, and excommunication, form, in fact, the chief props of the clerical power; but the repentant sinner can al- ways purchase a substitute to undergo the two former, and the ban of the church is readily averted by a timely offering. Spi- ritual offences are indeed of rare occur- rence ; for murder and sacrilege alone give umbrage to the easy conscience of the na- tive of Shoa ; and all other crimes written in the book of Christian commandment have been well nigh effaced from the sur- face of his tablet. Abstinence and the disbursement of suitable largesses to the priest and mendicant, are of themselves quite sufficient to insure the requisite abso- lution for every sin committed in the flesh. The death-bed and the funeral feast are attended with much advantage to the tem- poral interests of the church. The choi- cest food is unsparingly dealt out, and the bereaved widow is glad to leave the man- agement of her affairs to the assiduous father confessor, who is entertained in the house of all who can afford the expense. The dying man bestows a portion of his estate in this world for the bright hopes which absolution extends in that which is to come ; and the holy sacrament is even administered after the soul has quitted the tenement of clay, in order that the super- stition of grateful relatives may grant a rich reward for the blessing of the priest, and for his undeniable assurance of ex- emption from punishment hereafter. But the Abyssinian possesses no idea of the more salutary doctrine of Christianity. Polluted faith is here reflected in the mir- ror of depraved manners, and long severe fastings constitute the essence of his de- generate religion. The idol worship of saints has made rapid progress in the land ; and the ignorance of the clergy is only to be equalled by the impurity of the lay classes. Their belief in Christianity, if that term can be applied, is strange, child- ish, and inconsistent ; and bigoted to the faith of their ancestors, they abhor and despise all who refuse acquiescence in this their absurd confession : THE CHRISTIAN BELIEF. 271 " That the Alexandrian faith is the only true belief. " That faith, together with baptism, is sufficient for justification ; but that God demands alms and fasting, as amends for sin committed prior to the performance of the baptismal rite. " That unchristened children are not saved. " That the baptism of v/ater is the true regeneration. " That invocation ought to be made to the saints, because sinning mortals are unworthy to appear in the presence of God, and because if the saints be well loved, they will listen to all prayer. " That all sins are ibrgiven from the moment that the kiss of the pilgrim is im- printed on the stones of Jerusalem ; and that kissing the hand of a priest purifies the body from all sin. " That sins must be confessed to the priest — saints invoked — and full faith re- posed in charms and amulets, more espe- cially if written in an unknown tongue. " That prayers for the dead are neces- sary, and absolution indispensable ; but that the souls of the departed do not im- mediately enter upon a state of happiness, the period being in exact accordance with the alms and prayers that are expended upon earth." All ideas regarding salvation are thus vague and indefinite ; and vain, foolish doctrines have taken entire possession of the shallow thoughts of the Christian of Ethiopia. Born amid falsehood and deceit, cradled in bloodshed, and nursed in the arms of idleness and debauchery, the na- tional character is truly painted in the con- fession of one of her degenerate sons : — " Whensoever we behold the pleasing ware, we desire to steal it; and we are never in the company of a man whom we dislike, that we do not wish to kill him on the spot." The uphill task of the missionary is therefore hard ; and the wonder is that so much has been accomplished — not that the harvest is scanty. The example of a holy life cannot fail to produce a beneficial ef- fect, and the preacher of the gospel is ac- knowledged to possess every quality that is good, mild, and just ; but disliked as a stranger of envied accomplishment, des- pised as an alien to the land, and hated by the jealous priesthood, the words of truth fall unheeded from lips the most eloquent, and the best-directed endeavors prove of small avail. Perfectly satisfied with his own creed, the Abyssinian finds it easier to kiss the holy book than to peruse its contents ; and to trust to the fast and the priestly absolution than to mould his con- duct according to the gospel ; and it is not until commerce, with the arts of civilized society, shall have been introduced, that the barrier can be overcome, or one step be gained toward the restoration to the un- happy country of the true word of God. The bigotry of ages is confirmed by the self-pride and the excessive ignorance of the present race ; and on the rising or on the unborn generation must rest the sole hope for a moral resurrection. CHAPTER CVII. ABYSSINIAN RITES AND PRACTICES WHICH WOULD APPEAR TO HAVE BEEN BORROW- ED FROM THE HEBREWS. The claim to the appellation of Hdbeshi, " a mixed and mingling people, is most aptly exemplified in this strange medley of religion, to which the Jew, the Moslem, and the Pagan, has each contributed. A mixture from different nations, as stigma- tized by the original term, the Abyssini- ans have garbled the faith of their an- cestors ; and there is assuredly no Chris- tian community in the whole world, which has jumbled together truth and falsehood with such utter inconsistency as the vain church of Ethiopia. Many circumstances have conspired to render the nation more peculiarly suscepti- ible of Hebrew influence. The first Chris- tian missionary found the people idolaters, and worshippers of the great serpent Arwe ; but the ancestors of those Jews who to the present day exist in the country, unques- tionably arrived long before the nation had embraced the Christian religion, and in their attempts to obtain a moral influence over their pagan hosts were far from being inactive in their adopted home. Thus the early Christian church, that of Egypt especially, by which many Hebrew cus- toms had been embraced, was the more readily received when introduced into a nation among whom similar doctrines and practices were already in use. Boasting a direct descent from the house of Solomon, and flattering themselves in the name of the wisest man of antiquity, the emperors of Abyssinia preserve the high- sounding title of " King of Israel," and the national standard displays for their motto — " The Lion of the tribe of Judah hath prevailed." The tradition of Queen Ma- queda has been ascribed to the invention of those fugitive Jews, who, after the destruc- 272 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tion of Jerusalem by the Emperor Titus, emigrated into the northern states by way of the Red Sea — who disseminated it with the design of obtaining the desired permis- sion to settle in the country, and whose de- scendants are the Falashes still extant among the mountains of Simien and Las- ta. But whatever may be thought by oth- ers of the legend of descent, the firm na- tional belief in the origin traced will in a great measure account for the general in- clination and consent to receive Hebrew rites and practices as they were from time to time presented. Jews as well as Chris- tians believe the forty-fifth psalm to be a prophecy of the queen's visit to Jerusalem, whither she was attended by a daughter of Hiram the king of Tyre — the latter por- tion being a prediction of the birth of Me- nilek, who was to be king over a nation of Gentiles. Whatever the true date of their arrival, it is certain that the Hebrews have exer- cised a much greater influence upon the affairs of Abyssinia than in any other since the days of their dispersion ; and although their religion was abjured by the nation on the promulgation of the Gospel, the chil- dren of Israel, moulding a portion of their worship on the formulae of the Christian faith, and esteemed as sorcerers and cun- ning artists in the land, found a safe asylum among the mountains, and exist to the pres- ent day, here, as elsewhere, a separate and peculiar nation. With the destruction of the race of Sol- omon the Jewish party for a time obtained the preponderance. Again, on the resto- ration of the reigning dynasty, they were hunted among the mountains as a race ac- cursed, and the feeling reigned paramount to sweep the wanderers from the face of the land. But the custom of ages had im- pressed the Hebrew practices too deeply to be removed. They were, in fact, re- garded in the light of orthodox Christian doctrines ; and as might have been expect- ed from a bigoted and superstitious peo- ple, the severest persecutions were enfor- ced against the members of another creed, without the nation observing in how far they were themselves tainted with those very principles which in others they con- sidered so justifiable to oppress. The Abyssinian Christian will neither eat with the Jew, nor with the Galla, nor with the Mohammadan, lest he should thereby participate in the delusions of his creed ; and the church and the churchyard are sternly closed against all who commit this deadly sin. The same restrictions which prohibited the Jews from partaking of the flesh of certain animals, pronounced unclean by the Mosaic law, also heavily binds the stubborn neck of the Ethiopian. The act which is deemed disgraceful in the eyes of men, is regarded as a moral trans- gression, and is visited, as was the case in the Mosaic institution, by the stern repri- mand of the priest. The penance of se- vere fasting, or of uneasy repose upon the bare ground, is enforced by the father-con- fessor to efface the taint of the interdicted animal ; and prayers must be repeated, and holy water plentifully besprinkled over the defiled person of that sinning individual who shall have dared to touch the meat of the hare, or the swine, or the aquatic fowl. " The children of Israel did not eat of the sinew which shrank, which is upon the hollow of the thigh." This is in the Am- haric language termed Shoolada. and it is prohibited and held unlawful to be eaten in Shoa, more especially to the members of the royal blood. Considered as highly un- clean, it ranks with the carrion carcass ; and the universal belief prevails, that the touch of the unholy morsel would infalli- bly be followed by the loss of the offending teeth, as a direct reproof ttf the just indig- nation of Heaven. The Jewish Sabbath is strictly observed throughout, the kingdom. The ox and the ass are at rest. Agricultural pursuits are suspended. Household avocations must be laid aside, and the spirit of idleness reigns throughout the day. Abolished by order of the great council of Laodicea, the Oriental churches were, after the observance of centuries, freed from this burden ; and men gladly availed them- selves of the ecclesiastical license to work on the Saturday. Here, however, the an- cient usage agreed too well with the lazi- ness of a people systematically trained to indolence ; and when, a few years ago, one daring spirit presumed, in advance of the age, to burst the fetters of superstition, his majesty the king of Shoa, stimulated by the advice of besotted monks, delegated his wardens throughout the land, and issued a proclamation, that whoso disturbed the original dreamy stillness of the Jewish Sab- bath should forfeit his property to the royal treasury, and be consigned to the state dun- geon. Ludolf, the celebrated Strabo of Ethio- pia, most accurately remarks, that " there is no nation upon earth which fasts so strictly as the Abyssinians ; and that they would rather commit a great crime than touch food on the day of abstinence.' 1 They not only boast with the Pharisee, " I fast twice a week," but pride themselves ANNUAL ATONEMENT— INFERIOR DEITIES. 273 also upon their mortification of the flesh during half the year, while the haughty and self-sufficient monk vaunts his meagre diet as the only means of expiation from sin and evil desire. The Abyssinians, in common with other Christian communities who rigidly observe the fasts of Wednesday and Friday, ad- vance as an argument that the Jews seized our Saviour on the first of those days, and on the second carried into execution their design of crucifixion ; but as this account differs from the evidence of the Gospel, which shows that the arrest took place ^upon the Thursday, the observance is most probably an imitation of the weekly fasts in existence among the Jews. The fast of the forty days before Easter is observed with much greater rigor than any other in Abyssinia ; and the reckless individual who shall neglect the great " Toma Hodadi " cannot possess one sen- timent of true religion in his heart. To the abstinence of this season especially are attached peculiar virtues which completely nullify the effect of every sin that may be committed throughout the residue of the year. According to the Jewish practice, all cu- linary utensils must be thoroughly cleansed and polished, to the end that no particle of meat or prohibited food may remain to pol- lute the pious intention. Journeys and travel are strictly interdicted ; and from the Thursday until Easter morn, no morsel should enter the lip, and the parched throat ought to remain without moisture. During the fast of the holy Virgin, chil- dren of tender years are not even exempted from the penance of sixteen days ; and du- ring the many and weary weeks of absti- nence which roll slowly throughout the entire year, the Abyssinian priest would grant no dispensation to the famished mor- tal, " were he even to receive an immediate mandate from Heaven." Sahela Selassie arose some years ago a mighty zealot in the cause ; and perceiving that a custom was beginning to decline, proclaimed through the royal herald, pains and penalties sufficiently severe to insure the future strict observance of the fast. The commands of the defender of the faith were, however, in one instance, transgress- ed by a soldier, during a military expedi- tion, but his excuse of fatigue under a heavy load of the king's camp equipage was ad- mitted ; and although on similar occasions a certain license is extended, still the mon- arch keeps a strict watch over the main- tenance of church discipline. On the annual day of atonement, the Jews were obliged to confess their sins be- fore a priest. In like manner the Abyssi- nians are commanded from time to time to perform the ceremony, during the great fast of Ffodada more particularly, and on Good Friday, the day of the Jewish expi- ation. And as the slave, in token of his freedom and dismissal, received the blow from the Roman praetor, so the penitent on absolution receives a stroke over the shoulders from the branch of the Woira tree, as a sign of his deliverance from sin and Satan. Like the pagans of ancient and modern times, who placed between the most high God and themselves an inferior deity, the Abyssinians observe this species of idola- try, although the names of their tutelar spirits have been changed. Saint Michael and the holy Virgin are here venerated as in no other country in the world — the for- mer as the martial leader of all the choirs of angels — the latter as chief of all saints, and queen of heaven and of earth ; and both are considered as the great interces- sors for mankind. The detrimental influence of this super- stition is fully exemplified in the conduct of the nation. The mediator is ever em- ployed when individual courage fails in impudent assurance or insatiable beggary. Time is uselessly wasted in importunity, which all believe must in the end prove successful ; and the practice of invocation and intercession thus exerts the most bane- ful tendency even upon the daily dealings of life. Like the Jews of old, the Abyssinians weep and lament on all occasions of death, and the shriek ascends to the sky, as if the soul could be again recalled from the world of spirits. The Israelites employed hired mourners ; but here the friends and rela- tives of the departed assemble for the same purpose, and the absence of any from the scene is ascribed to want of love and affec- tion. As with the Jews, the most inferior garments are employed as the weeds of wo ; and the skin torn from the temples, and scarified on the cheeks and breast, pro- claims the last extremity of grief. In later days, the extravagance of mourn- ing has been somewhat moderated, through the agency of a priest of the church of St. George, who stood boldly forward to arrest a practice equally at variance with the sacred books of the country, and with the spirit of the New Testament. Excommu- nication was thundered upon all who should thenceforth indulge publicly in the luxury of wo ; and the people trembled under the ban of the church. The death of a great 274 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. governor soon confirmed the restriction. Loved and esteemed by all classes, the prohibition was severely felt. The com- plaint was referred to the throne ; and as the deceased was a man of rank, and a royal favorite withal, the clergy were com- manded to grant absolution in this one in- stance. But Zeddoo, the stout-hearted priest, arose, and declared that he had no respect for persons, and that the words of truth must be defended to the death. The silence of the monarch enforced the eccle- siastical fiat ; and to this day the drum is mute at the funeral wake, and the custom- ary praise of the deceased is heard no more in the public resorts of the capital. The Talmud asserts that those who died piously remained in a state of active know- ledge of all the occurrences of this world. Philo, the learned Jew of Alexandria, in- forms us, that the souls of the patriarchs pray incessantly for the Jewish nation, and the erudite rabbins believed that angels are the governors of all sublunary things, and that each man and every country has a guardian angel for protection and direction. The Abyssinians carry this belief even further — they confidently anticipate the in- tercession and assistance of saints and angels in all spiritual and secular concerns, and invoke and adore them in even a higher degree than the Creator. All their churches are dedicated to one in particular, and the holy " tabot" is regarded as the visible rep- resentative of the celestial patron. The ark of St. Michael accompanies all military expeditions, to insure success against the gentiles ; and that of Tekla Haimanot stands the palladium of the north, to pre- serve the empire from the attacks of the Mohammadan prince of Argobba. All the absurd ideas of the Jewish rab- bins regarding the dead have been received and embraced by the fathers of Abyssinia. They maintain with the Romanists too, that the soul of the departed does not im- mediately enter into the kingdom of joy, but is conducted to a habitation situated in an invisible spot between the heaven and the earth, where it remains until the resurrection, in a state of happiness or tor- ment, according to the alms and prayers bestowed by surviving relatives and friends. Niches in the same spot are also occupied by the saints ; and the inconsistency of their faith fully appears in the belief that the intercession of the Almighty is abso- lutely necessary of these very saints, who themselves require mortal mediation to be absolved from their spiritual imperfections, and to be suffered to rest in peace until £he coming of Christ. But the self-interest of the avaricious priest is wrapped up in the preservation of this doctrine. The clergy enjoy the price of death-bed confession ; and a corner of the church-yard is sternly denied to all who die without the due performance of the rite, or whose relations refuse the fee and the funeral feast. The payment of .eight pieces of salt, however, wafts the soul of a poor man to a place of rest, and the tescar, or banquet for the dead, places him in a degree of happiness according to the costliness of the entertainment. The price of eternal bliss is necessarily higher to the rich ; but German crowns procure the at- tendance of venal priests, who absolve and pray continually day and night, and the reeking brundo is frequently devoured in commemoration of the event. Royalty is taxed at a still more costly rate, and the anniversaries of the deaths of the six kings of Shoa are held with great ceremony in the capital. Once during every twelve months, before the commencement of a splendid feast, their souls are fully absolved from all sin : and the munificence of their illustrious descendant is still further dis- played in the long line of beeves which afterward wends its way to the threshold of every church in Ankober. CHAPTER CVIII. THE PEOPLE. ^Ethiops, one of the twelve descendants of Cush, the son of Ham, said to have been begotten and buried at Axum, is regarded by the Abyssinians as their great progeni- tor. Shortly after the flood, the grandson of Noah is believed to have advanced from the low country, then under the dominion of the sea and the marsh, until, after cross- ing a tract little fitted for the occupation of the shepherd, he ascended the high- lands of Ethiopia, which afforded an invit- ing habitation to the parent stock from which has emanated the different shoots of. African population. Like most other Abyssinian legendsJ this version is somewhat at variance with' received history, which assigns to Arabia the original seat of the Cushites. The strange medley of color and feature ob- servable at the present day, does not, how- ever, overturn the theory of origin. The habits of the people, and the peculiarly varied climate of their country, together with the usual result of mingling inter- course with the fairer and more beautiful ORIGIN OF THE AMHARA— NATIONAL COSTUME. 275 among the various hordes of slaves which have for age6 streamed through the land from the ravaged interior, are in themselves sufficient to account for the diversity. The connection with Arabia, commen- cing at a period the most remote, is known to have existed for many centuries. Ar- mies from both nations respectively visited each other in wrath — merchants recipro- cally sustained the intercourse — later still, the family of the false prophet found an asylum among the mountains of a country, which, as a Christian state that was not overwhelmed by the resistless flood of Islamism, stands alone in the history of Eastern nations ; and to the present day many peculiarities in the language, the laws, and the customs of both, continue to mark a common origin. Existing usages would also tend to confirm what was af- firmed in the days of Diodorus, that Egypt was originally colonized from Ethiopia, the very soil being brought down from the highlands by the floods of the Nile. Caucasian features predominate among the Amhara; but the complexion passes through every shade, from an olive brown to the jet black of the negro. An approxi- mation to the thick lip and flattened nose is not unfrequently to be seen ; but the length and silkiness of the hair invariably marks the wide difference that exists be- tween the two races. The men are tall, robust, and well formed ; and the women, although symmetrically made, are scarcely less masculine. They are sometimes beau- tiful, but, as a rule, the reverse ; and their attempts are indeed ingenious to render hideous the broad unmeaning expanse of countenance bestowed upon them by na- ture. All savages esteem certain deformities to be perfection, and strive, by augmenting the wildness of, their aspect, to enhance the beauty of their persons. Having first eradicated the eyebrow, the Amhara dam- sel paints a deep narrow curved line in their room with a strong permanent blue dye ; thus imparting a look of vacancy and foolishness, which in the high-born dame is heightened by plastering the cheeks to the very eyes with a pigment of red ochre and fat. If not close shaven, and encircled by a narrow greasy fillet of rag, the head is adorned with many minute rows of elaborate curls, which diverge from a com- mon centre, and are besmeared with stale butter until the wig has assumed the ap- pearance of an ordinary English beehive. The costume consists of a wide sack chemise with baggy sleeves, confined round the waist by a narrow girdle, and sur- mounted by a long winding sheet thrown over the head, and descending to the heels — very coarse and strong, and, like Ruth's veil, fully capable of containing six meas- ures of wheat. Large black wooden studs in the lobe of the ear are on high days and holvdays replaced by masses of silver or pewter, resembling a pile of hand-grenades, or the teething rattles employed in nurse- ries. Bracelets and anklets of the same metals, which, from their clumsiness, are aptly denominated " fetters," are worn by those who can afford such extravagance. Blue and gold-colored beads are ingenious- ly wrought into a necklace by the wealth- ier, who never appear without a bandalier of potent amulets terminating in a huge red bell-rope tassel ; and the lady of rank completes her toilet by dying her hands and feet red with the bulb called ensolesa, securely plugging up the nostrils with lemonpeel or some aromatic herb, so that the end of the bouquet may dangle before the mouth. From the king to the peasant, the cos- tume of the men consists of a large loose web of coarse cotton cloth, enveloping the entire person in graceful folds, but well nigh incapacitating the wearer from exer- tion. Frequently disarranged, and falling ever and anon upon the ground, the trou- blesome garment must be constantly tuck- ed up and folded anew about the shoulders, from which it is removed in deference to every passing superior. A cotton w r aist- cloth of many yards in length is swathed about the loins, and a pair of very wide loose trowsers, termed senaphil, hang bare- ly to the knee. The sword, the spear, and the buckler, are the national weapons ; and the first is girded to the loins of every male subject in the kingdom, be his profession what it may. Barely two feet in length, and highly crescent-shaped, it rather resembles a sickle than an implement of war. It serves equally at the banquet and in the field ; but being firmly lashed to the right side protrudes most incommodiously be- hind, and is not to be detached from the scabbard unless by much grunting and personal exertion. " With the unfkshion'd fur Rough-clad, devoid of every finer art, And elegance of life," the serf still appears in the raw fleece of the sheep, which he shifts according to the vicissitudes of the weather. During the journey or the foray a cloak, composed of the prepared skin of the lion, the leopard, or the ocelot, is thrown over the shoulders of the better classes. Neither shoes nor 276 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. sandals are ever employed. The despot and the wandering mendicant are alike barefooted ; and, unless by the clergy or the inmate of the monastery, no covering is worn on the head. A wooden skewer, displaying either a feather or a sprig of wild asparagus, is stuck in the hair of two- thirds of the nation, and the arm of every man of any note is encumbered with an infinity of copper rings forming a gauntlet, or with ponderous ivory armlets, or with a mass of silver which might serve as a shackle to a wild colt. In the absence of a razor, the men scru- pulously denude their cheeks and chin with a pair of very indifferent scissors — a mode of proceeding which serves greatly to enhance the dirty appearance of their unwashed faces. Water, not less than coffee and tobacco, being studiously avoid- ed, as savoring too strongly of abhorred Islamism, the Christian contents himself with rubbing his eyes in the morning with the dry corner of his discolored robe ; but the greatest attention is paid to the man- agement of the hair, with which nature has so liberally supplied him, and many hours are daily expended in arranging the mop into various and quaint devices. At one time worn hanging in long clustering ringlets over the cheeks and neck — at an- other, frizzed into round matted protuber- ances ; to-day, fancifully tricked and trim- med into small rows of minute curls like a counsellor's peruke ; and to-morrow, boldly divided into four large lotus-leaved com- partments — it is invariably reeking under a liberal coat of rancid butter, which taints the atmosphere with the most nauseous and abominable effluvium. During the period of mourning, which extends to one year, black or yellow gar- ments, or the ordinary apparel steeped in mire, must be worn as weeds ; and on the demise of a relative or friend, both sexes scarify the cheeks by tearing from below each temple a circular piece of skin about the size of a sixpence ; to accomplish which, the nail of the little finger is pur- posely suffered to grow like an eagle's talon. An ecclesiastical remonstrance to the throne, representing this practice to be in direct violation of the written law, " Ye shall not make any cuttings in your flesh for the dead," long since obtained the pro- mulgation of a royal edict directing its discontinuance ; but it is still universally practiced; and throughout the kingdom there is scarcely an individual to be seen, whether male or female, who has not at some period of life beon thus horribly dis- figured. The mateb, a small encircling cord of deep blue silk, chosen in reference to the smiling sky above, is the badge of debased Christianity throughout the land; and those who accidentally appear in public without it are severely censured by their pastors. Like other Eastern nations, the Amhara have no family name. They soon ripen and grow old. Girls become mothers at the early age of twelve, and are decayed before the summer of life has well com- menced. It has been conjectured by Pliny, that the Orientals received their first hints in architecture from the swallow ; and that, in imitation of the abode of the feathered instructor, their primeval essays were made in clay. Whence the Abyssinians obtained their ideas on the subject it were difficult to tell ; but it is certain that they have made little progress, whether in ex- ecution or in design. Their houses, con- structed as in the earliest days, are still a mere framework of stakes, sparingly be- daubed with a rude coating of mud. Here thieves can readily break through and steal ; and of such a flimsy nature are the materials employed, that the morning sun often rises a witness to the truth of the scriptural metaphor, " He built his house upon the sand, and it was swept away by the rising flood." The windows, when any windows there be, are mere perforations in the wall, fur- nished with shutters, but unprovided with any transparent substance ; and thus, if the clumsy door is closed against the searching fog, or the cutting wintry blast, all possibility of admitting light is pre- cluded. The thermometer rarely rising above 65°, indicates the necessity for arti- ficial heat ; but, excepting through the crevices in the door, and the apertures of the cracked walls, there exists no exit for the smoke of the sunken wood fire, which thus fills the solitary apartment, blackens the low roof, and occasions frequent at- tacks of ophthalmia. Throughout, the most slovenly appearance pervades the dreary interior. Furniture is limited to a small wicker table, a bullock's hide, and a rickety bedstead abounding in vermin ; and while the universal objection to the use of water, whether as regards the per- son or the apparel of the inmates, enhan- ces the gloomy vista of cobweb desolation, dirt and filth choke up the surrounding inclosure. The absence of drains or sewers com- pels the population of the towns and vil- lages to live like swine in the filth of their own styes, inhaling all the odors of de- mtm RAVAGES OF EPIDEMIC— DOMESTIC LIFE. 277 composing matter and stagnant water. The comfort of space is never consulted — stables and outhouses are far beyond the notions of the proprietor ; and in the ab- sence of all tidiness or comfort in the ar- rangement of the yards, the unseemly dunghill, which in other countries is car- ried away to improve the soil, is here suffered to accumulate and rot before the entrance. Poisoning the atmosphere with its baneful exhalations, it is periodically swept away by the descending torrents to feed the rank weeds which fatten in the mire ; but no attempt is to be seen at the small trim garden, or neat rustic porch, even in the lone farm-steadings which are scattered throughout the county. All alike present a dreary look of desertion. The poultry, and the mules, and the farm- stock, and the inhabitants, all reside under the same roof. Bare walls and slovenly thatch rise from a straggling wattle stock- ade, which environs the premises to pre- serve the inmates from the nocturnal at- tacks of the prowling hyena, and to impart the fullest idea of confinement and misery. Few trees break the monotony of the scene. No busy hum of glad labor is to be heard — no bustle or noise among the elders — no merry game or amusement among the children ; and thus to the Eu- ropean visitor the whole appears strange, savage, and unnatural. With the doors allowing free ingress to every injurious current, with roofs admit- ting the tropical rain, and sunken floors covered with unwholesome damp, it is only surprising that many more of the people of Shoa are not martyrs to disease. It is now nine years since an epidemic called ougdret made its first appearance at the capital, and, as might have been an- ticipated, spread with fearful virulence in the foul city. The drum of misfortune was heard by the credulous pealing over the land ; and although a black bull was led through the streets, followed by the inhabitants carrying stones upon their heads in token of repentance, and the sac- rifice of atonement was duly performed, one half of the whole population was swept away. The monarch sought se- clusion in the remote palace at Machal- wans, and would see no one until the plague was stayed ; and the survivors of his subjects fled for a season from a hill which was declared by the priesthood to have been blasted by a curse from Heaven. CHAPTER CIX. SOCIAL AND MORAL CONDITION. In Shoa a girl is reckoned according to the value of her property ; and the heiress to a house, a field, and a bedstead, is cer- tain to add a husband to her list before many summers have shone over her head. Marriage is generally concluded by the parties declaring, before witnesses, " upon the life of the king," that they intend to live happily together, and the property of each being produced, is carefully apprized. A mule or an ass, a dollar, a shield, and a sheaf of spears on the one side, are noted against the lady's stock of wheat, cotton, and household gear ; and the bargain being struck, the effects become joint for the time, until some domestic difference re- sults in either taking up their own, and departing to seek a new mate. Matrimony is, however, occasionally solemnized by the church, in a manner somewhat similar to the observance of more civilized lands ; the contracting par- ties swearing to take each other for life, in wealth or in poverty, in sickness or in health, and afterward ratifying the cere- mony by partaking of the holy sacrament, and by an oath on the despot's life. But this fast binding is not relished by the in- habitants of Shoa, and it is of very rare occurrence. Favorite slaves and concu- bines are respected as much as wedded wives. No distinction is made between legitimate and illegitimate children ; and, to the extent of his means, every subject follows the example set by the monarch, who, it has been seen, entertains upon his establishment, in addition to his lawful spouse, no fewer than five hundred concu- bines. The king resides only a few weeks at either of his many palaces ; and whenever he proceeds to another, is accompanied by all his chief officers, courtiers, and domes- tics. At each new station a new female establishment is invariably entertained. All conjugal affection is lost sight of, and each woman is in turn cast aside in neg- lect. Few married couple ever live long together without violating their vow ; and the dereliction being held of small account, a beating is the only punishment inflicted upon the weaker party. The jewel chas- tity is here in no repute ; and the utmost extent of reparation to be recovered in a court of justice for the most aggravated case of seduction is but fivepence sterling ! Morality is thus at the very lowest ebb ; for there is neither custom nor inducement 278 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. to be chaste, and beads, more precious than fine gold, bear down every barrier of re- straint. Honesty and modesty both yield to the force of temptation, and pride is sel- dom offended at living in a state of indo- lent dependence upon others. The soft savage requires but little inducement to follow the bent of her passions according to the dictates of unenlightened nature ; and neither scruples of conscience nor the rules of the loose society form any obstacle whatever to their entire gratification. The bulk of the nation is agricultural ; but on pain of forfeiting eight pieces of salt, value twenty pence sterling, every Christain subject of Shoa is compelled, whenever summoned, to follow his imme- diate governor to the field. A small bribe in cloth or honey will sometimes obtain leave of absence, but the peasant is usually ready and anxious for the foray ; present- ing as it does the chance of capturing a slave, or a flock of sheep, of obtaining honor in the eyes of the despot, and of gratifying his inherent thirst for heathen blood. The principal men of the country who may not be intrusted with government, spend their time in basking in the sun, holding idle gossip with their neighbors, lounging about the purlieus of the court, or gambling at gebbela or shuntridge,* the management of the house being left to the women, and the direction of the farm to the servants and slaves. Visits are cus- tomarily paid early in the morning ; and it is reckoned disreputable to enter a stran- ger's house after the hour of meals, be- cause the etiquette of the country enforcing the presentation of refreshment, the un- seasonable call is ascribed to a desire to obtain it. Whether in the cabinet or in the field, a great man is constantly surrounded by a numerous band of sycophants, and never for a moment suffered to be by himself. The custom of the country enjoins the practice — the cheapness of provisions fa- vors the support of a large retinue — and in the lack of manufactories, the popula- tion is able to supply an unlimited number of idlers, who are willing to pick up a livelihood by any means that chance may present. But to the stranger the nuisance is a crying one. No privacy is to be en- joyed, for no retirement is ever permitted. A dozen naked savages are perpetually by * Oebbeta is a game something allied to backgam- mon, but played with sixty-four balls stored in twenty cavities on the board. Skuntridge is, with few deviations, the Arab game of chess. his side, restrained by no very correct ideas of order or decorum. Each intru- der seizes the first object that comes within his reach, and attacks ears, teeth, and nose with the most reckless indiffer- ence to appearance. The confused hum and half-suppressed chatter are far from affording assistance during the hours of mental employment ; and at the season of meals, or during the presence of illustrious visitors, the whole establishment, denuded to the girdle, crowd into the apartment to satisfy insatiate curiosity, under pretext of doing honor to their lord and master. On the first introduction of a stranger, an individual is selected from the estab- lishment, and appointed the baldoraba, or " introducer." He is designed to illustrate the agency of the holy Virgin and of the saints, between the Redeemer and the sin- ning mortal. To him and to him alone can a visitor look for admittance into the house ; and unless he be present, the mon- arch and the great man are alike invisible. Court-yards may be thronged with attend- ants, and the doors may seem invitingly accessible, but the open sesame is wanting, and the repulsed visitor returns to his home disgusted with the insolence re- ceived. Time, however, gradually softens down the rigidity of the most inconvenient practice, which is at first so pertinaciously observed. Suspicion of evil design gives way on matured acquaintance ; and after a certain probation, there is not much more difficulty experienced in gaining admittance to an Abyssinian hut, than to the lordly halls of the English nobleman. Respect is paid by prostration to the earth in a manner the most degrading and humiliating — by bowing the face among the very dust — by removing the robe in order to expose the body — and on entering the house, by kissing the nearest inanimate object. Every subject, of whatever rank, when admitted to the royal presence, throws himself flat before the footstool, and three times brings his forehead in con- tact with the ground. All stand with shoulders bare to the girdle before his majesty, as do servants in that of the master or superior ; but to equals the cor- ner of the cloth is removed only for a time. Anything delivered to a domestic must be received with both hands in a 'ringing attitude ; and should a present bo made, the nearest object, generally the t\. eshold of the door, is invariably saluted wu ; i the lips. A.uong the chiefs and those of rank, presents are frequently interchanged, ai the utmost display is attempted on their RAW BEEF-STEAKS— HYDROMEL. 279 delivery. To this end the articles are sub- divided into a multiplicity of minute por- tions, placed in baskets covered with red cloth, and consigned to a long train of bearers. Each component part of the gift must next be exposed to the view of the recipient. Wild bulls and unruly he-goats, half as large as a donkey, are forcibly dragged into the sitting apartment, to the imminent danger and frequent pollution of all around. Cocks and hens, unseemly joints of raw beef, loaves of half-baked dough, pots of rancid butter, sticky jars of honey, or leaky barilles of hydromel, sacks of barley, bundles of forage, and coarse evergrown cabbages, must be in turn nar- rowly scrutinized and personally approved ; and any deviation from this established rule is certain to be visited with the most dire displeasure. Meals are taken twice during the day — at noon and after sunset. The doors are first scrupulously barred to exclude the evil eye, and afire is invariably lighted be- fore the Amhara will venture to appease his hunger — a superstition existing that without this precaution devils would enter in the dark, and there would be no bless- ing on the meat. Men and women sit down together, and most affectionately pick out from the common dish the choicest bits, which, at arm's length, they thrust into each other's mouth, wiping their fingers on the pancakes which serve as platters, and are afterward devoured by the domestics. The appearance of the large owlish black face bending over the low wicker table, to receive into the gaping jaws the proffered morsel of raw beef, which, from its dimen- sions, requires considerable strength of fin- ger to force into the aperture, is sufficiently ludicrous, and brings to mind the nest of sparrows in the garden hedge expanding their toad-like throats to the wanton whis- tle of the truant -school-boy. Mastication is accompanied by a loud smacking of the lips — an indispensable sign of good breed- ing, which is said to be neglected by none but mendicants, " who eat as if they were ashamed of it ;" and sneezing, which is fre- quent during the operation, is accompanied by an invocation to the Holy Trinity, when every bystander is expected to exclaim, Maroo ! " God bless you !" Raw flesh forms the great aliment of life ; and a sovereign contempt is enter- tained toward all who have recourse to a culinary process. The bull is thrown down at the very door of the eating-house — the head having been turned to the eastward, is with the crooked sword nearly severed from the body under an invocation to the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost — and no sooner is the breath out of the carcass, than the raw and quivering flesh is handed to the banquet. It is not fair to brand a nation with a foul stigma, resting on a soli- tary fact ; but he who, like the writer, has witnessed during the return of the foray the wanton mutilation of a sheep, whose limbs were in succession severed from the carcass while the animal was still living, can readily believe all that is related by the great traveller Bruce of all the cruelties practiced in Northern Abyssinia. Sour bread, made from teff, barley, and wheat, is eaten with a stimulating pottage of onions, red pepper, and salt. Daboo, the most superior description of bread manu- factured, is restricted to the wealthier classes ; but there are numerous other methods employed in the preparation of grain, descending through all the grades of hebest, anbabtro, anabroot, defo, amasa^ debenia, demookta, and kitta ; the first four being composed of wheaten flour, and the remainder of teff, gram, juwarree, barley, and peas. Mead formed the beverage of the north- ern nations, and was celebrated in song by all their bards. It was the nectar they expected to quaff in heaven from the skulls of their enemies, and upon earth it was liberally patronized. In Shoa the despot alone retains the right of preparing the much-prized luxury, which, under the title of tedj, is esteemed far too choice for the lip of the plebeian. Unless brewed with the greatest care, it possesses a sweet mawkish flavor, particularly disagreeable to the palate of the foreigner; but its pow- ers of intoxication, which do not appear to be attended with the after-feelings insepa- rable from the use of other potent liquors, extend an irresistible attraction to the Am- hara of rank, who will never, if the means of inebriation be placed within his reach, proceed sober to bed. The branches of the gesho planf are dried, pulverized, and boiled with water, until a strong bitter decoction is produced, which is poured off and left to cool. Honey and water being added, fermentation takes place on the third day. Chilies and pep- per are next thrown in, and the mixture is consigned to an earthen vessel, closely sealed with mud and cow dung. The streng f h increases with the age ; and the monarch's cellars are well stored with jars filled thirty years ago, during the reign of his sire, which, lit-le inferior in potency to old Cognac, furnishes the material for the nightly orgies in the palace. The lullah, or beer of the country, also 380 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. possesses intoxicating properties, and, swal- lowed to the requisite extent, produces the consummation desired. Barley or juwar- ree, having been buried until the grain be- gins to sprout, is bruised, and added to the bitter decoction of the gesho. Fermenta- tion ensues on the fourth day, when the liquor is closed in an earthen vessel, and, according to the temperature of the hut, becomes ready for use in ten or fifteen more. The capacity of the Abyssinian for this sour beverage, which in aspect resem- bles soap and water, is truly amazing. In every house gallons are each evening con- sumed, and serious rioting, if not bloodshed, is too often the result of the festivity. Rising with the liquor quaffed, the fierce passions gradually gain the entire ascend- ency, and guests seldom return to their homes without witnessing the broil and the scuffle, the flashing of swords and the deal- ing of deep cuts and wounds among the drunken combatants. Jf but a small por- tion of the grease which is so plentifully besmeared over the Christian persons of the Amhara were employed in the fabrication of candles, the long idle evenings might be passed in a more pleasant and profitable manner than in the swilling of beer like hogs, and the consequent brawling conten- tions which at present stigmatize their noc- turnal meetings. On ordinary occasions, however, when not engaged in a debauch, the Abyssinian retires to his bed as soon as the shades of night close in. A bullock's hide is stretch- ed upon the mud floor, on which, for mu- tual warmth, all the inferior members of the family lie huddled together in puris natu- ralibus. The clothing of the day forming the covering at night, is equitably distribu- ted over the whole party ; and should the master of the house require sustenance du- ring the nocturnal hours, a collop of raw flesh and a horn of ale are presented by a male or female attendant, who starts without apparel from the group of sleep- ers, exclaiming Abiel! "My lord!" to the well-known summons from the famished gaita. Coffee, although flourishing wild in many parts of the kingdom, is at all times strictly forbidden on pain of exclusion from the church ; and the priesthood have extended the same penal interdiction to smoking, " because the Apostle saith, that which cometh out of the mouth of a man defileth him." One half the year, too, which is reserved for utter idleness, is sternly mark- ed by an exclusion of all meat diet, under the fearful penalty of excommunication. Eggs and butter are then especially forbid- den, as also milk, which is styled "the cow's son." Nothing whatever is tasted between sunrise and sunset ; and even at the appointed time a scanty mess of boiled wheat, dried peas, or the leaves of the kail- cabbage, with a little vegetable oil, is alone permitted to those who are unable to obtain fish, of which none are found in any of the upland rivers. Beside Wednesdays and Fridays through- out the twelve months, which are observed as holydays, the fast of the Apostles con- tinues eighteen days, that of the holy Vir- gin sixteen, Christmas seven, Nineveh four, and Lent fifty-six. During all of these, laboring men are strictly prohibited from every employment, and, as they desire their souls to be saved, are compelled to live like anchorites, to the serious diminution of their bodily strength. This is encouraged and promoted by the king ; yet there is no system so baneful as that of devoting so many precious days to idleness and vice, and none forming a more fatal obstacle to the amelioration of the people. Where such a waste of time as this is sanctioned by religion, how deeply laid must be the found- ation of mental ignorance ! Six months out of the twelve devoted to listless idle- ness is indeed an immense source of evil, and God, who has placed men here for use- ful and worthy exertion, is not likely to reward them for their sloth. But through- out Abyssinia the evil is in full force. In arts, in industry, and in social as well as in moral existence, her sons are shrouded under a dense cloud of ignorance. Want of education denies them the relaxation of intellectual employment — little amusement varies the dull routine of a life awed by the church, by the king, and by the nobles ; and an unprofitable existence having been pass- ed in this world, the spirit passes away without any very distinct idea being enter- tained of what is to happen in the next. CHAPTER CX. LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. Geez, the ancient Ethiopic, was the ver- nacular language of the shepherds. Until the fourteenth century of the Christian era it remained that of the Abyssinian empire, and in it are embodied all the annals of her religion. After the downfall of the Ze- guean dynasty, and the restoration of the banished descendants of Solomon, Amharic became the court language, to the com- plete exclusion of the Geez. It prevails in Shoa, as well as in all the provinces in- THE AMHARIC TONGUE— THE SCRIBE. 281 eluded between the Taccaze and the blue Nile, and is thus spoken by the greater por- tion of the population of Abyssinia. The province from which the language has derived its appellation is at the present day in occupation of the Yedjow, and other Mohammadan Galla tribes, who speak a distinct dialect ; but the fact of " Amhara " being a term held synonymous with " Chris- tian," would prove that it must formerly have exerted preeminent influence in the empire. Of Semitic origin, and acknowledging the Ethiopic as its parent, the Amharic displays much mutual interchange with the surrounding African languages — those, es- pecially, which are spoken by the Danakil, the Somauli, the Galla, the people of Ar- gobba, and those of Hurrur and of Gurague. The cognate dialect peculiar to Tigre has received much less adulteration from other tongues, and consequently preserves a closer similitude to the Ethiopic ; and this circumstance may be traced to the greater intercourse maintained with a variety of foreign nations by the versatile and unsta- ble population in the south. Amharic excepted, none of the many lan- guages extant in Abyssinia have assumed a written form. The Ethiopic characters, twenty-six in number, are the Coptic adaptation of the Greek alphabet, model- led upon the plan of the Arabic, deranged from their former order, and rendered rude and uncouth by the fingers of barbarous scribes. Each individual consonant, be- ing subjected to variations of figure corres- pondent with the number of vowels, pro- duces a prolific kaleidescope mixture, which might have been deemed sufficient. Bat the ingenious phonologist who applied these to the Amharic tongue has superadd- ed seven foreign letters, each undergoing seven transformations by the annexure of as many vowel points ; and these, with the ad- dition of a suitable modicum of diphthongs, complete a total of two hundred and fifty- one characters, of the separate denomina- tion of any of which, notwithstanding that most have possessed names from all an- tiquity, it may not, perhaps, be considered extraordinary that the most erudite in the land should profess entire ignorance. When the Egyptian monarch interdict- ed the employment of the papyrus, parch- ment was invented. The Jews very early availed themselves of the charta pergame- na, whereupon to write their scriptures. The roll is still used in their synagogues ; and being introduced into Abyssinia on the Hebrew emigration, it continues the only material used by the scribe. His ink 19 is a mucilage of gum-arabic mixed with lampblack. It acquires the consistency of that used in printing, and retains its in- tense color for ages. The pen is the reed used in the East, but without any nib, and the inkstand is the sharp end of a cow's horn, which is stuck into the ground as the writer squats to his task. But it must be confessed that the Abys- sinian scribe does not hold the pen of a ready writer ; and the dilatory manage- ment of his awkward implement is attend- ed with gestures and attitudes the most ludicrous. Under many convulsive twitch- es of the elbow, the tiny style is carried first to the mouth, and the end having been seized between the teeth, is masticated in a sort of mental frenzy. Throughout the duration of this necessary preliminary, the narrow strip of dirty vellum is held at arm's length, and viewed askance on every side with looks of utter horror and dismay ; and when at last the stick descends to dig its furrow upon the surface, no terrified schoolboy, with the birch of the pedagogue hanging over his devoted head, ever took .such pains in painting the most elaborate pot-hook, as does the Abyssinian professor of the art of writing, in daubing his strange hieroglyphics upon the scroll. As with the Chinaman, each individual character must on completion be scruti- nized from every point of view, before pro- ceeding to the next. Every word must be read aloud by the delighted artist, spelt and respelt, and read again ; and the greasy skin must be many times inverted in order that the happy effect may be thoroughly studied. During each interval of approv- al, the destructive convulsions of the jaw are continued to the complete demolition of the pencil, and long before the termina- tion of the opening sentence, European pa- tience has become exhausted at the scene of awkward stupidity, and the gross waste of valuable time which it involves. Seventeen years have been employed in transcribing a single manuscript, and an ordinary page is the utmost that can be produced by one entire day's steady appli- cation. A book is composed of separate leaves inclosed between wooden boards, usually furnished with the fragment of a broken looking-glass for the toilet of the proprietor, and carefully enveloped in a leathern case. The contents being of a sacred nature, and generally embodied in an unknown tongue, they are looked upon with the eye of superstitious creduli- ty, and more especially venerated if embel- lished with colored daubs and an illumina- ted title-page. 282 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. The pictorial art is still far behind the middle ages of Europe ; and the appear- ance of the limner arranging his design ■with a stick of charcoal, or filling in the gaudy partitions with the chewed point of a reed dabbled in the yolk of an egg, which is placed on end before him, proves sufficiently diverting. The conceits of some of the most celebrated masters also afford a fund of amusement. Christ still- ing the tempest is a subject fraught with the deepest perplexity to those who have never seen either a maritime vessel or the "great water," and fire-arms are placed somewhat before their invention in the hands of the heroes of antiquity. Our common father in the enjoyment of para- dise is at the present day invariably depict- ed with an emblazoned buckler, a sprig of asparagus, and a silver sword ; and his erring partner appears with a bushy bee- hive wig most elaborately buttered, with silver earrings resembling piles of cannon- shot. But although doubts exist as to complexion of the first parents of man- kind, the fact is not a little complimentary to the heretic Franks, that the fairest skin is given to saints, angels, and the " dead kings of memory," whereas black or blue are the colors invariably employed in de- picting his satanic majesty. One hundred and ten volumes* comprize the literature at this day extant in Abys- sinia; but tradition records the titles of other works, which it has already been said were deposited for security in the islands of the lake Zooai, at the period of the Mo- hammadan inroads. Of the accumulated lore of ages, four manuscripts only are written in the language at present spoken and understood ; and, with exception of the Holy Scriptures, the whole is little more than a tissue of absurd church controversy and lying monkish legend. Four monstrous folios, styled Senkesar, which are to be found in every church, briefly record the miracles and lives of the countless saints and eminent persons who receive adoration in Abyssinia ; and on the day ordered by the calendar for the service of each, his biography is read for the edifi- cation of all those of the congregation who comprehend the Ethiopic tongue. A host of pious worthies thus preside over every day of the entire year ; and fables of the most preposterous kind, detailed with scru- pulous minuteness, are vouched for upon unexceptionable authority. Idle legends form the delight of the peo- ple of Shoa. The Ethiopic saint is nothing * Vide Appendix, inferior to his western brethren. He per- forms yet more marvellous miracles, leads a still more ascetic life, and suffers even more dreadful martyrdom ; whence he is proportionably adored in the native land of credulity, superstition, and religious zeal. Between apocryphal and canonical books no distinction is made. Bell and the Drag- on is read with as much devotion as the Acts of the Apostles, and it might be ad- ded, with equal edification too ; and St. George vanquishing his green dragon is an object of nearly as great veneration as any of the heroes in the Old Testament. But the store of literature being thus bound up in a dead letter, few excepting the priests and defteras can decipher them, and many of these learned men are often more indebted to the memory of their early youth than to the well-thumbed page in their hand. The ignorance of the nation is indeed truly deplorable ; for those chil- dren only receive the rudiments of an ed- ucation who are designed for the service of the church; and the course of study adopted being little calculated to expand the mind of the neophyte, a peculiar de- ficiency is presented in intellectual fea- tures. The five churches of Ankober have each their small quota of scholars, but the aggregate does not amount to eighty, out «f a population of from twelve to fifteen thousand ! Abyssinia, as she now is, presents the most singular compound of vanity, meek- ness, and ferocity — of devotion, supersti- tion, and ignorance. But, compared with other nations of Africa, she unquestionably holds a high station. She is superior in arts and in agriculture, in laws, religion, and social condition, to all the benighted children of the sun. The small portion of good which does exist may justly be as- cribed to the remains of the wreck of Christianity, which, although stranded on a rocky shore, and buffeted by the storms of ages, is not yet wholly overwhelmed ; and from the present degradation of a peo- ple avowing its tenets, may be inferred the lesson of the total inefficacy of its forms and profession if unsupported by enough of mental culture to enable its spirit and its truths to take root in the heart, and bear fruit in the character of the barbarian. There is, perhaps, no portion of the whole continent to which European civilization might be applied with better ultimate re- sults ; and although now dwindled into an ordinary kingdom, Habesh, under proper government and proper influence, might promote the amelioration of all the sur- rounding people, while she resumed her THE THREE NATURES OF CHRIST. 283 original position, as the first of African monarchies. CHAPTER CXI. THEOLOGICAL CONTROVERSIES. Ever since the arrival of the British embassy in Shoa, the king's attention had been occupied with controversies, which, during a period of sixty years, have per- plexed the Abyssinian divines. The voice of the herald and the beat of the kettle- drum were now gradually resolving the church into a form, by the establishment of opinions diametrically opposed to the historical facts and clear evidence of the Gospel ; and the summary deposition of refractory spiritual chiefs, and the- arbitrary confiscation of their worldly substance, having led to the successful introduction of many unsound doctrines, which his des- potic majesty conceives to be most condu- cive to salvation, he bids fair in due pro- cess of time to promulgate a most curious creed of his own. At the expense of a bloody civil war, Gondar, with Gojam, Damot, and all the southwestern provinces of Amhara, has long maintained the three births of Christ — Christ proceeding from the Father from all eternity, styled li the eternal birth ;" his incarnation, as being born of the holy Vir- gin, termed his " second or temporal birth ;" and his reception of the Holy Ghost in the womb, denominated his "third birth." The Tigre ecclesiastics, on the other hand, whose side is invariably espoused by the primate of Ethiopia, deny the third birth, upon the grounds that the reception of the Holy Ghost cannot be so styled — the opin- ions of both parties being at variance with the belief of the Occidental churches, which, on the evidence of the Gospel, be- lieve that our blessed Saviour received the Holy Ghost at his baptism in his thirtieth year, immediately prior to the commence- ment of his preaching. Further, the Gondar sectarians assert that Christ received the Holy Ghost by the Father, while those of Tigre affirm that, being God himself, he gave the Holy Ghost unto himself. This creed has ob- tained for the latter faction the opprobrious epithet of Kara Hdimanol, the knife of faith, in allusion to their having lopped off an acknowledged scriptural truth. Asfa Woosen, grandsire to Sahela Se- lassie, being assured by his father confes- sor, a native of Gondar, that in event of his embracing- the doctrine of the three 19* births, the district of Morabeitie, already conquered by Emmaha Yasoos,but not at that period completely annexed to Efat, should be permanently secured to hin., through the spiritual influence of the church adopted it without hesitation. Until within the last few years the belief was limited to the monarchs of Shoa ; but the hospitality of the reigning sovereign attracting to his dominions numerous visitors from the north and west of Abyssinia, the latent flame was quickly fanned ; and the dis- pute reaching a great height, was at length brought before the despot, who put an end to it by issuing a royal proclamation, un- der the solitary tree at Angollala, " That he who should henceforth deny the three births of Christ, should forfeit his property and be banished the realm." Aroe, a eunuch from Gondar, shortly disseminated another curious doctrine, which asserts that the human soul posses- ses knowledge, fasts, and worships in the womb, and immediately on separation from the body renders an account on high. On the recent nomination of the Alaka Wol- da Georgis to be head of the church, and of Kidaana Wold to be the alaka of Deb- ra Libanos, three monks set out to Gondar for the purpose of denouncing them, as being opposed to this creed. Ras Ali, er- roneously concluding that they denied the three births, sent to Sahela Selassie to in- quire how it happened that he had seceded from the faith of his forefathers, by the appointment of the two individuals in question. Hereat the negoos waxing wroth, exclaimed, " Am I then the vassal of Ras Ali, that he thus interrogates me ?" But reflection showed him the propriety of avoiding a dispute which must have invol- ved serious consequences, and with his usual temporizing policy he sent a reply declaratory " that he had not abjured the belief of his ancestors." The monks of Debra Libanos having thus failed in their attempt to remove the newly appointed alakas, next sought to accomplish their purpose by the establish- ment of their creed throughout the king- dom, and gaining numerous proselytes, the dispute? had soon reached the climax. After fruitless efforts to satisfy the inte- rests of all concerned, his majesty sought to escape participation in the quarrel, by referring the parties to Gondar ; but Ze- nama Work, the queen-dowager, well as- sured that Ras Ali and the monks would decide against the sect whose doctrines she espouses, denied a passage through Zalla Dingai, and thus compelled the whole to returni to* Anfcober. 284 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. As had been anticipated, this step re- sulted in the complete triumph of the Gondar eunuch, and the consequent, dis- missal with disgrace of the Alaka Wolda Georgis, chief of the church of Shoa, the alakas of St. Michael, St. George, Afer- beine, Kondie, Aramba, Debra Berhan, and Angollala ; of the king's confessor ; of Wolda Haimanot, styled Bala Wajnbar,* the great alaka of Mans, chief of thirty- eight churches, who possessed the privi- lege of sitting in the royal presence on an iron chair ; and of numerous other priests, whose property was confiscated by the crown, and who received sentence of ban- ishment from the kingdom. On the herald proclaiming, under the palace gate at the capital, that the belief of the knowledge of the human soul in the womb should henceforth be received by all classes, under similar pains and penal- ties, public thanksgivings were offered in the various churches ; and the priests, forming triumphant processions through every street of the town, chanted psalms amid the shrill acclamations of women, and the din of the sacred drums. The defeated party, on the other hand, com- plained loudly that they had been dismiss- ed without an impartial hearing ; the mon- arch having simply observed that the fact of their not proceeding to Gondar, as com- manded to do, sufficiently proved their error. This they disclaimed, and after re- questing to be convinced upon the Scrip- tures, added, " Will the king adjudge the faith as he adjudges movables and lands'?" But the despot cut the matter short in these words : — " Enough, you are dis- missed ; and since you will not receive the faith of my forefathers, by their names, and by the holy Trinity, I swear, that you may beg your bread through the land rath- er than that one of your creed should be received again into the bosom of the church." The success of the Debra Libanos sec- tarians was speedily followed by discus- sions relative to the equal adoration due to the holy Virgin ' and her son, while the despotic and ill-advised proceedings of his majesty raised a storm throughout the en- tire realm. The ban of excommunication was instantly resorted to — the curse of the church was pronounced upon the tri- umphant party — the priests who passed it, after having been seized and compelled to accord absolution, were expelled the king- dom — and a brave and courageous leader seemed alone wanting to induce those who * L e, " The master of the chair." had been defeated to raise the standard of revolt once more in a religious war. CHAPTER CXI I. CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES. Abyssinia had for fifteen years been left without an archbishop, when Abba Salama, the primate nominated by the hundred and ninth occupant of the chair of St. Mark, arrived at Gondar to enter upon the func- tions of his sacred office. Thus raised at the early age of twenty-two years to the episcopal throne of Ethiopia, and vested with despotic powers, it is not a little for- tunate for the country that he should be possessed of abilities of a very superior order, arid that his mind should have been expanded by a liberal education at Cairo under a pious and learned missionary of the church of England.* One of the first steps of the new aboon was to depute a confidential servitor to Shoa, as the bearer of a letter of compli- ments to the British embassy. War had for some months past been raging on the western frontier betwixt Goshoo, the ruler of Gojam,and his son Birroo,who had risen in open rebellion ; and the messenger brought a confirmation of the long-rumored defeat of the former, and of the forces of Ras Ali, which had been sent to his assist- ance. The return of killed and wounded is, in this country, never suffered to fall short of the reality, and on the present oc- casion it had certainly not lost by the dis- tance it had travelled. " It was a little before nightfall," said the turbaned priest, " that the rival armies, countless as the blades of grass that wave on the bosom of the meadow, came in sight of each other at Ungatta, on the banks of the Suggara. Before the morning dawned, Birroo, who occupied the upper ground, moving down to the attack, secured the fords of the river. The action presently opened with a heavy fire of musketry and matchlocks, which did great execution. Five thousand warriors were slain — two thousand five hundred stand of arms were captured — Liban, who commanded, was, with several of his principal chiefs, taken prisoner — and Goshoo was compelled to seek the inviolable sanctuary afforded by the monastery of Dima Georgis. Five governors were hewn alive down the mid- dle ; and the cunqueror, after standing up to his neck in water for three days, as an * The iter. Dr. Leider. BILLETS FROM THE QUEEN— HAJJI MIRZA. 285 atonement for the slaughter he had com- mitted among a Christian people, sent to Ras Ali a horse curtailed of mane, tail, and ears, with a pair of new trowsers greatly- soiled, and a haughty message to the effect that these were but types of the fate that yet awaited his liege lord !" The month of January had now come round ; and the arrival of Queen Besabesh, who invariably precedes the movements of the court by one day, proclaimed the ad- vent of the negoos to celebrate at the capi- tal the festivities of the Abyssinian Christ- mas. Her majesty had become extremely indisposed from the long journey, and was desirous of receiving medical aid ; but it being contrary to the court etiquette that the royal consort should be seen by any male, an interview could not be accorded. Seated in a small closed tent, the hand of the illustrious patient was passed outside through a tiny aperture ; and, although eunuchs further embarrassed conversation, a condescending voice inquired, in reply to acknowledgments made at parting for ci- vilities received, " If I did not befriend the foreigners, pray who is there else to do so ?" Entertaining so bigoted an aversion to every Mohammadan custom, it cannot fail to appear singular that the licentious court of Shoa should have preserved one of the most objectionable — the seclusion of fe- males. Yet such is the extreme jealousy on this point that, although from the first arrival of the embassy the queen had ex- pressed herself in the most friendly terms, and almost daily sent through her maids of honor trifling presents of mead or bread, coupled with complimentary inquiries, and expressions of deep regret at the existing inability to receive a visit, an introduction, under any circumstances, was quite im- practicable. From day to day, however, the most cu- rious applications were still preferred for beads, trinkets, cloth, and perfumery, and the utmost disappointment was evinced at no demand being made in return. " I pos- sess honey and I possess butter, and have fowls and eggs in abundance," was the undeviating message. " Why do not my children ask for what they want ? All I have is theirs, for all that they have is mine !" Even when residing at a distance, com- missions were continually received through laconic notes on scrolls of parchment vary- ing in breadth from one inch to three, bear- ing neither signature nor superscription, and tightly rolled up in the end of an Abys- sinian candle. Their contents revealed some newly conceived fancy, such as might have been expected from a queen that eats raw beef. " The brass in your country is like gold," formed the sum and substance of one epistle, " and you might therefore order the bracelets to be made of the pat- tern sent by the hands of JDinkenich ;"* and again, " May this letter come to the hands of the English commander. Are you well ? are you quite well "J That the soap may not end quick, you will send it in large quantities, saith Besabesh." Not long after her majesty's arrival, an unfortunate child, recently purchased from a Gurague slave caravan, was sent to the residency, with a request that Hubsheeri might be exchanged for some clear salad oil which had met with especial approval "for medicine for the face ;" and great sur- prise was elicited by the information that such a course of proceeding would involve disgrace and criminality, inasmuch as the unchristian-like traffic in human beings is held in abhorrence beyond the great water. But in this matter the emabiet was not sin- gular. Certain of the courtiers, who con- sidered themselves under obligations, had previously tendered " strong Shankela slaves" as a Christmas gift, and all had been equally at a loss to comprehend the motive for refusal. Among the followers brought from India was a native of Caubool, who acted in ca- pacity of tailor, and his proficiency in the needle involved a most unreasonable tax upon his services. Day after day for weeks and months had he been in attendance at the palace ; and when at length, under the royal eye, he had completed a sumptuous bumoos,f on the elaborate embroidery of which half the treasures in the gemjdia house were recklessly lavished, the king, in the plenitude of his munificence, sent by the hands of Ayto Melkoo a shabby cot- ton cloth, value three shillings and six- pence, with a half starved goat, and a message that " it was Christmas, and the tailor might eat." Hajji Mirza was furious. " Take back these gifts to your shah," he growled in- dignantly ; " I want none of them. By the beard of the Prophet, I'm the son of a Pa- than ; and praise be to Allah, the meanest overseer of a village in Affghanistan is possessed of far greater liberality than Sa- hela Selassie." This tirade had fortunately been deliver- ed in a tongue not familiar to the ears of the king's master of the horse, who was meanwhile diligently occupied with the * i. e. "She is beautiful" — One of her majesty':; abigails. t Cloak. 286 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Pathan's needle and scissors. Having taken the bag out of his hands, and ex- tracted a scrap of red cloth, he had care- fully fashioned a minute cross, which with elbows squared he was now proceeding to stitch over a hole in the lower part of his striped cotton robe. " Why do you do that ?" inquired the tailor, peevishly, in broken Amharic, not relishing the interference in his depart- ment, and anxious also to exhibit his own talents. "Let me darn it for you, and then there will be no blemish." " No," replied the party addressed, with great gravity, declining the proffered as- sistance. " Do n't you know that the hole has been burnt, and therefore that it must be repaired with another color ?" The Gyptzis' cuisinier had also been in frequent demand ; but although he was a bond fide Christian, and wore a " mateb" too, the king could never persuade himself to partake of any of the viands prepared by the Portuguese from Goa. Loaf sugar being employed in the manufacture of a Christmas cake, as his majesty sat watch- ing operations, the inquiry followed, as a matter of course, " How they made it white 1 Was the ox whose blood was employed killed in the name of the holy Trinity?" "Certainly not." "Then it might remain," was the abrupt rejoinder. " It doth not please me." The Abyssinians, assigning to the world an existence of 7334 years, refer the birth of Christ to the five thousand five hun- dreth after the creation. Thus eight years have been lost in the computation of time, and their Anno Domini 1834, corresponded with the Christian era 1842.* On Christ- mas eve the usual contest took place on the king's meadow, between the royal household and the dependents of the pur- veyor-general and the dech agafari. A cloth ball having been struck with a mall, a struggle for possession follows, and the party by which it is thrice caught in suc- cession being declared victorious, enjoys the privilege of abusing the vanquished, monarch only excepted, during the ensuing two days of festivity ; the first of which is celebrated by the male, the second by the female portion of the population. Every tongue is unloosed ; and the foulest slan- der may be heaped upon the illustrious, as well as' upon the holiest personages in the land. His majesty's partisans gained the day, and the embassy were summoned to the palace to witness their Christmas exhibi- * Christmas day fell on the 5th of January. tion. Filling the court-yard, they danced and recited before the throne couplets de- famatory of all the principal functionaries present, not omitting the lord bishop, who appeared to consider himself infinitely complimented by the vices whereof he stood accused. Bodily imperfections were not overlooked ; asses and dromedaries afforded frequent comparisons ; and the fat of the corpulent state jailer, who sat a witness to the festivities, was declared sufficient to light the entire capital during the approaching public entertainment, to be given at the expense of the defeated chiefs, which in riot and debauchery closed the disgraceful Saturnalia. CHAPTER CXIII. FEAST OF THE EPIFHANY. But by far the greatest holyday of the Abyssinian year is held on the Epiphany, styled Temkat,* when the baptism of our Lord, by John in the river Jordan, is com- memorated with extraordinary pomp. He who neglects to undergo the annual puri- fication enjoined on this day by the Ethio- pic church, is considered to carry with him the burden of every sin committed during the preceding twelve months ; and to be surely visited by sickness and mis- fortune ; whereas those who perfom the rite are believed to have emerged thor- oughly cleared and regenerated. On the evening preceding this festival, the priests of all the churches in Ankober and the environs, carrying the holy tabots under gaudy canopies, assembled in the open space, termed Arada, immediately in front of the palace. Here, according to custom, they were received by the gov- ernor of the town, who, after falling pros- trate on his face before the arks, escorted the procession to the river Airara — the clergy dancing and singing, while the fe- male portion of the inhabitants lined the hill-side, to indulge in the shrillest exulta- tion. A tent for each church had been erected on the bank ; and after the com- pletion of a temporary dam across the stream, the night was spent in chanting appropriate hymns and psalms. Long before dawn, the pent up waters having been blessed by the officiating priest, the entire population, the young, the old, the wealthy, and the indigent, gathered from many miles round, casting * i. e. Baptism. THE HOLY SUPPER— LUSTRATION. 28T ofTlheir habiliments, flocked promiscuously into the pool — even babes who were unable to totter being thrown in by their naked mothers. Not the slightest modesty was evinced by either sex, all mingling together in a state of perfect nudity under the light of innumerable torches and flambeaux, which shed the broad glare of day over the disgraceful scene, the actors wherein af- fected to receive from above blindness to each other's shame. Having partaken of the holy supper, the multitude proceeded to devour a pile of loaves, and to drain accumulated pitchers of beer, supplied by the neigboring gover- nors. Here too the most indecent excesses were committed. Declaring themselves to have swallowed a specific against intoxica- tion, the clergy indulge to any extent they please, and each priest, vying with his brother in the quantities he shall quaff, avers that if " the whole of the Lord's bread and the Lord's wine " be not con- sumed on the spot, a famine will arise throughout the land ! Festivities terminated, the officiating dignitaries, robed and mitred, preceded the holy arks and canopies in grand procession to the capital, singing hallelujahs. Holding in their left hand cymbals in imitation of David, and in the right the ecclesiastical staff, wherewith various absurd gesticula- tions are described, they danced and sang for some time in front of the palace gate. As usual, the performance displayed the most uncouth attitudes, and the least grace- ful figures. The beard and the crutch, and the aged face, and the sacred calling, were but ill in unison with the mounte- bank capers undertaken ; and the actors rather resembled masks at the carnival than holy functionaries of the church. " The foxes have holes, and the birds of the air have nests," is a passage of Scrip- ture which the clergy of Shoa interpret to their own advantage. " Who are the foxes," they invariably inquire, " but the kings and the governors of the land, who seek only after worldly vanities ? and who the birds but the priests and bishops, who in hymns and hallelujahs thus fly upward, and build their nests in heaven ?" The clergy are distinguished from the laity by a beard, and by a monstrous white turban, impeding free motion of the head. This encumbrance is designed to com- memorate the event of Moses covering his face on his descent from the Mount, when he had received the tables of the law. Their sacred persons are usually shrouded in a black woollen cloak, studded with em- blems of the faith, and furnished with a peaked hood. The sacerdotal vest was first embroidered by command of Hatz6 David, the father of St. Theodorus, to com- memorate the arrival from Jerusalem of a fragment of the true cross on which Christ died ; and officiating priests are expected to appear in one of these, composed either of scarlet cloth, or an aggregate of party- colored drapery. A silver or brazen cross and a slender crutch are the never-failing companions of the priest; and on all occasions of cere- mony, such as the present, the mitre, the censer, and the great umbrellas are con- spicuous objects. Long rods furnished with streaming pennants, manufactured of the light pith of the juwarree in alternating bands of red and white, were carried by the host of dirty boys who swelled the pro- cession ; and after the labors of the day were over, these emblems of regeneration were hung up in the churches as votive offerings. Dispersing after the exhibition* under a salvo of musketry to their respec- tive churches, individuals, who from any unavoidable circumstance had been pre- cluded from participating in the general immersion, were there baptized, males and females being alike divested of every por- tion of apparel, and plunged into a large reservoir prepared for their reception. Four years had elapsed since Sahela Selassie underwent this lustration, wherein he was wont annually to participate, but from which he is now held exempt in con- sideration of the height of his power. Al- though in a state of perfect nudity, a cloth was held around him during the ceremony — a privilege to which neither virgins nor fe- males of the highest rank are ever admitted. Pots and pans that have been defiled by the unclean touch of a Mohammadan, are on this day purified by immersion in the water that has been blessed by the priest. Among many other superstitions there ex- ists a firm belief, that all mules and horses that are not led forth to exercise on the festival of Temkat will die during the en- suing year. It is considered to be " a day of great splendor ;" and on pain of excom- munication, every good Christian is bound to appear clad in his best habiliments, and in all the trinkets he can muster, that he may prostrate himself before the ark which he has adopted. If enforced with rigor, excommunication is in fact a capital punishment, for it is interdictio aqua el igni. No one can speak to, or eat, or drink with the proscribed person, nor even enter his house. The offender can neither buy nor sell, nor visit. He cannot recover debts. He may be mur- 288 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. dered at pleasure by any ruffian who will take the trouble to cut his throat, and when dead his body cannot be buried. The bell, book, and candle are to be hired by any disappointed enemy, and the hooded priest may be purchased to perform the ceremony ; but the undertaking in some cases is not without its attendant danger. The cells of the state prison frequently in- close the rash fanatic who wantonly inter- feres with the royal salvation. Scanty fare and close confinement eventually insure absolution, and the martyr to religious in- tolerance is summarily banished from the realm. Another powerful antidote is found in the argumentum baculinum, which when persuasively applied to the shoulders of arrogant church pride, by the sturdy sinews of Europe especially, possesses a wonderful efficacy in allaying the storm. A century has not elapsed since excom- munication was performed upon one of the fair sons of the North. The turbaned bearer of the bell, book, and candle, was quietly introduced into the domicile, and his countenance fell as he perceived the object of his visit armed with a formidable cudgel. " My father must have been mis- taken," was the exordium that greeted his astounded ear, as the staff descended with an equally startling salutation — " My father never could have proposed the excommu- nication of his dear friend." Again the weapon pattered upon the priestly back ; and during full five minutes an able run- ning commentary was supported by fre- quent playful taps over the head, to quicken the clerical understanding. This powerful appeal concluded, the crest-fallen function- ary willingly withdrew his ban, and bestow- ing entire absolution, slunk back to his cell, mentally resolved to interfere no more with the incomprehensible European, who neither displayed terror at the curse of the church, nor entertained respect for the sa- cred persons of her ministers. Unquies, the Bishop of Shoa, had long meditated the adoption of extreme meas- ures toward the British escort, whom he declared no better than Mohammadans, since it was notorious that they did not kneel when the holy ark passed, and had no hesitation in partaking of flesh slaught- ered by an infidel, instead of in the name of the holy Trinity. No one, however, could be found sufficiently bold to under- take the customary process where the Irish soldier was concerned ; and the king's "strong monk " had been fain at length to content himself with the clandestine pro- mulgation of his spiritual denunciation for the many heresies committed. The honorary distinctions conferred by the monarch for the destruction of the ele- phant first produced a good effect, which was still increased by the presentation of the silver shield that distinguishes the high- est functionaries in the land ; and although the opinions of the clergy generally were still far from favorable, there was a certain influential priest who invariably found it convenient to pass the long dreary even- ings over the residency fire. The pious father evinced no disinclination to partici- pate in the good things of this world ; and while sipping his strong drink, it was his delight to speculate upon scriptural grounds whether the skin of Eve was really white or black, and to prove that locusts could never have been tasted by John the Bap- tist, because they formed the food of the unclean Mohammadan. Edifying topics such as these were doubt- less handled with greater eloquence than either abstinence, or the mortification of the flesh. Proceeding on his annual visit to Debra Libanos, the principal resort of those who prey upon the credulity of the public, the devout father at length stood voluntarily forward as the advocate of the Gyptzis ; and so eloquently did he explain away the non-observance of fasts and other imputed heresies, that a wax taper whereof he had been made the bearer was actually lighted in the sanctuary of Saint Tekla Haimanot, and an immediate revulsion thereby created in the ecclesiastical sentiments entertained throughout the entire realm. CHAPTER CXIV. EXCURSION TO BERHUT, ON THE SOUTH- EASTERN FRONTIER OF SHOA. It was an object of great geographical importance, that the flying survey of the kingdom of Shoa should be completed by a visit to the country forming the boundary to the southeast, famous for its numerous volcanoes, recently in full activity, and hitherto untrodden in any part by European foot. A pretext presented itself in the ex- istence of the wild buffalo in the lower dis- tricts ; but it was necessary, in the first instance, to overcome the royal scruples, which would have precluded participation in the chase of that animal. This end was at length attained ; and the despot being made to comprehend that his children ran less risk of being demolished than he had formerly chosen to believe, vouchsafed the desired permission. The requisite instruc- tions were issued to men in authority to THE MESSENGER— THE RIVER AIRARA. 289 promote the views of those " whom the king delightcth to honor ;" and, preceded by Queen Besabesh, his majesty then set out on his annual visit to Mesur Meder. " There is one point," observed his ma- jesty, when the embassy took leave, " on which I wanted to consult you. The lo- custs are destroying the crops, and the priests have been unable by their prayers to arrest their progress. Have you no medicine to drive them away ?" Ayto Wolda Hana, under whose imme- diate orders are all the second-class gov- ernors in the realm, had received com- mands to summon to Ankober the Misley- ni,* or vice governor, of Berhut and of the plains lying between the Casam and the Ha wash — a tract inhabited partly by the Adaiel, whose nominal fealty is preserved through the influence of Wulasma Mo- hammad, and partly by the Karaiyo Galla, over whom the negoos asserts more sub- stantial jurisdiction. But many days elap- sed without any efficient arrangements be- ing made ; and Deftera Seena, chief of the king's scriveners, having after twelve hours of close application, contrived to com- plete a written representation to the throne, a courier was dispatched with it on horse- back to the royal camp. No Abyssinian will ever think of declaring himself the bearer of an express, unless pointedly questioned on that head, nor will he then relinquish possession until distinctly order- ed so to do. On the return of the special messenger, who had been three days ab- sent on the service confided to him, a di- rect application for the answer was follow- ed by none of the usual fumbling among the folds of the girdle for the tiny scroll in its wax envelope ; and the caitiff was final- ly fain to confess that on being summoned to the presence of his sovereign at Mesur Meder, and commanded to deliver up the document wherewith he had been charged, he for the first time recollected that it had been inadvertently left behind at Ankober ! But a peasant, who fortunately chanced upon the missing parchment by the road- side, had carried it, in accordance with the immutable law of the realm, straightway to the king, who, immediately upon be- coming aware of the contents, and long before Deftera Seena had completed a du- plicate copy, and without any further refe- rence on the subject, deputed Mamrie Sa- lomon, now chief of the eunuchs, to see his royal will carried into instant effect. A number of tribute-bearers from Berhut were fortunately on the point of returning * Lit. " Like myself." to their district ; and the baggage having been delivered over for transportation, the party quitted the capital on a cold morning toward the close of March. Immediately beyond the church dedica- ted to Aboo, one of the most celebrated of Abyssinian saints, the path struck off to the southward along the course of the Airara, which from the diminutive mill- stream of the Chaka soon assumes a more brawling demeanor ; and receiving numer- ous tributaries from the mountains on either side, proceeds onward through a deep precipitous channel in the trap rock, which wears the appearance of having been, artificially fashioned by the chisel of the stone-cutter. The valley traversed is ex- tremely varied in width, extending in some parts from six to seven miles, while in oth- ers it is reduced to a mere ravine by the converging spurs of the two great ranges which limit its meanderings. Through- out, the scenery is tame, the cliffs being flat and naked, and the vegetation, in its russet garb, restricted to a small scrubby species of dwarf acacia, interspersed with the euphorbia styled kolqual — the charcoal obtained from which is preferred in the manufacture of gunpowder. But where- soever the plough could be held, there the hand of industry had been busy, and for the first eight miles there was little remaining of waste or uncultivated soil. In these parts the rains descend with extreme violence ; and having, in the first instance, scooped up and carried away all the rotten debris, each succeeding deluge has added its mining activity and perseve- rance, until the entire mountain range for miles, presents the singular appearance of an endless succession of perfectly isolated cones, the apices of many being crowned by villages, or by the dwellings of great men, while the sloping sides are smoothed and levelled with the utmost nicety. The valley is thickly peopled, flourishing ham- lets peeping out in every direction ; but, as in other parts of the country, the best of the land, whether arable or pasture, per- tains to the crown — Bukerfine, one of the richest farms in the district, having been conferred upon Mist Malifia, a royal con- cubine, by whom the king has a favorite daughter. High over the valleys, and perched among the few remaining groves on the very summit of the range, stand the seats of the second great power of the state. Churches and monasteries dotting the cool shady peaks, are far elevated in all the pride of place above the residences of the common herd — their localities no doubt 290 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. tending to rivet the chain which encircles the neck of the infatuated Abyssinian. Priestly intimations issuing from a temple often shrouded from human ken under im- penetrable fog, are received with increased attention, and the thunder of excommu- nication commands utter abasement and prostration of spirit when fulminated from the grand scene of elementary strife, and falling upon the ear of the awe-stricken serf amid the prolonged echoes of the con- firming artillery of heaven. The reve- nues of many of the villages passed, are appropriated to the cathedral of St. Michael in Ankober. A few hours' journey had substituted the heat of a tropical climate for the cool alpine breezes of the mountains ; and the momentarily increasing temperature was sufficiently convincing of the rapid decli- nation of the route, even had it not led along the banks of the Airara, which, hav- ing been crossed and recrossed a dozen times, was now tumbling down through a succession of foaming cascades, with a sound most refreshing to the ear. Emerg- ing at length from its walls of columnar basalt, it is joined by the Kubanoo. bearing a large body of water from the west, it ex- pands into a broad channel, and is employ- ed in irrigating the extensive cotton plan- tations which everywhere abound on its borders. The stream is diverted by a sim- ple pile of pebbles ; but the elevated aque- ducts, somewhat ingeniously termed mus- selal icaha "the water-ladder," are con- structed with infinite care, and passing frequently along narrow ledges, are widen- ed by means of wooden tressels supporting a trough of brushwood and shingle. A sufficient supply is thus raised to nurture the magnificent cotton plants, the stems of many of which measuring seven, eight, and nine inches in girth, support a crop that, arriving at maturity, keeps ample pace with these gigantic proportions. Shortly after the accession of Sahela Se- lassie, his majesty marched to the Kubanoo, for the purpose of holding a conference with the Ada'iel ; and his armory being in those days by no means so well furnished as it now is, the array of old matchlocks was regarded by the Moslems with the ut- most contempt and derision. A rush was made during the night upon the royal camp — many of the Christians were slain — and while the remnant, with their youthful sove- reign, fled in dismay to the stronghold of the capital, the treacherous assailants re- turned undisturbed in triumph to their des- ert plains. Kittel Yellish, the village at which it was proposed to halt, had been represented by the guides to be situated within a very moderate march of Ankober ; but the Abys- sinians possess not a better idea of the measure of distance than of the value of time ; and, after eight hours passed in the saddle, refuge was taken about sunset in the Moslem hamlet of Manyo, a cluster of huts crowning the summit of a cone, and overlooking a wild uncultivated tract, in- tersected by a labyrinth of tremendous ravines, arched over by the thorny branches of the acacia, and other vegetation of a strictly tropical aspect. Swine, agazin, and some of the smaller species of antelope, here abound to such an extent, that the peasants attempt no crop but cotton, ex- changing the raw wool for what they need of other produce. The village was strong- ly fortified in all directions against the in- roads of the leopard and hyena, by palisades inclosing a stiff thorn fence ; and there be- ing no room even for the smallest tent, the night was passed in a shed rudely thatched with the leaves of the papyrus, which would not have been tenable for five minutes in the alpine regions quitted in the morning. CHAPTER CXV. THE ROYAL GRANARY AT DUMMAKOO Considerable difficulty was experien- ced in satisfying the exorbitant demands of the virago who owned this comfortless hovel, and whose reception of the king's guests, as representative of her absent hus- band, to whose charge the hamlet had been confided, was neither hospitable nor flat- tering. For a full hour after the arrival of the party, this wrinkled beldame, stand- ing in the dark porch of her adjacent house, had exerted her cracked voice in a tissue of shrill comments levelled against the im- propriety of entering private demesnes un- announced ; and the first crowing of the cock invited a renewal of her far from me- lodious clamor, which was only silenced by the jingle of silver crowns. The road now descended to the Umptoo, which takes its source in the lofty moun- tain Assagud, and thence winds through numerous rapid currents down the broad stony bed. Cotton in its most perfect state of cultivation clothed all the level terraces. The papyrus, here as in Egypt designated plieela, fringed the banks of the stream in close thick patches ; the honey-sucker, ar- rayed in green and gold, flashed in the morning sun, as it darted among the flow- SULPHUR MINES— BERHUT. 291 ering" acacias ; birds of Tare plumage filled the tangled brushwood ; and the fantastic forms of the circumjacent mountains en- hanced the beauty of the wild scene. But every man's hand was armed for strife. The peasant carried spear and shield, and wore the sword girded to his loins ; and the site of his habitation had been carefully selected with a long look out on all sides as a precaution against attack and inva- sion. Leaving the bed of the river, which measured some eighty yards across, the path ascended a ridge running east and west, and deriving its appellation from the conspicuous peaks of Golultee and Demsee. To the eastward, through a wide gap in the mountains, could be seen a long reach of the Airara, now expanded into a noble river, by the junction of the Umptoo, and glitter- ing under its numberless channels, which bear in the rains a vast volume of water to the Casam, to be poured eventually into the Hawash. From the summit of the pass in the direction of Ankober, a strange view extended for a distance of thirty or forty miles — a broken abyss of hill tops seeming as though the waves of the troubled ocean had been suddenly petrified in their pro- gress — Mamrat, the monster billow, tow- ering above all in the far horizon, as the last barrier arrested in full career. The belt of rugged hills of limestone slate through which the course lay, is an almost uninhabited waste of neutral ground, forming the boundary betwixt the Christian and Moslem subjects of Shoa. A few goats alone found a sufficiency of food among the scanty leaves of the now withered acacias; and the human denizens of the soil were wild as their rocky mountains. Fleeing at the approach of the white men, they took up a secure position on the very sum- mit of the loftiest peaks, and looked down with evident mistrust upon the cavalcade, which was sufficiently well armed, and formidable in point of number, to instil terror into the bosom of all conscious of the wrath of princes, and of lawful tribute rash- ly withheld. The termination of this sul- try range forms an abutment upon the coun- try of the Ada'iel, whence is derived all the sulphur employed in the manufacture of gunpowder in the royal arsenals ; and spe- cimens which were picked up by the way would lead to the inference that the vein continued even beyond the point of crossing. Like that of the Umptoo, the bed of the Korie, another tributary of the Casam to which the road next descended, is bordered with luxuriant cotton cultivation, and in many parts overgrown with tangled papy- rus. Shut in by a deep valley, it threads the mountainous district of Dingai-terri, and many wild bananas were seen luxuri- ating on its moist banks. The dusty path led on through a jungle composed chiefly of a bastard description of Balm of Gilead., which being crushed under the foot, scent- ed the whole atmosphere. Near the Mos- lem cemetery, below Kittel Yellish, the civility of the governor of the district was displayed in the purveyance, on skins be- neath the trees, of every article considered necessary for Christian sustenance during this most holy season of Lent — bread, beer, and water proving truly acceptable to the Abyssinian followers, already much dis- tressed by the intense heat of a nearly vertical sun, to which they were so little inured. A wild roguish-looking Moslem dervish, decked in a rosary of large brown berries, and carrying a staff of truly por- tentous dimensions, here introduced him- self as an acquaintance made many months previously at Dathara, upon which grounds he considered himself entitled to share in the repast. Leading a roving and an idle life, and armed with scrip and water-flagon, he had for years subsisted upon the alms of the superstitious followers of the Proph- et ; and if judgment might be formed from his sleek exterior, they had not been nig- gard of their contributions. Lofty, gray, weather-worn precipices, down which the mountain torrents had left visible traces of their headlong course, now rose over deep semi-circular basins by the way-side, a formation of limestone cut into ruts being .occasionally visible be- neath a thick stratum of basalt. In the bed of the Meynso, cool sheltered caves and a bubbling brook afforded inviting shel- ter to the weary porters, and a more level tract was then gained, over which a gallop of five miles led to Dummakoo, one of the royal granaries, where, by his majesty's commands, the head-quarters were to be establi&hed. This village, constructed on a knoll three thousand feet below the level of Ankober, is situated in a fine, open, undulating country, well populated, and intersected by numerous milk-bush hedges. Richly cultivated, and scoured by a cool breeze, it afforded a most agreeable contrast to the barren sultry hills through which the course had lain. The cloud-enveloped dome of the great beacon Mamrat still towered obscurely in the hazy distance. In the intervening space, abounding with coal, lay the lofty range of Bulga and Mentshar, rising to the extinguisher-like cone of Megasus, and at its foot sank the 292 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. valley of the Casam, which was to form the scene of coming operations. One of the king's numerous magazines for grain and farm produce extends its long barn-like front in the centre of the hamlet, every house of which is screened by a tall green hedge ; and that the safety of the royal stores has been alone consulted in the selection of the site, is sufficiently proved by the fact of the inhabitants being compelled to drive their cattle many miles on either side for their daily draught of water, while the long-tressed Mohamma- dan damsels are fain to trudge with a heavy jar at their back to a remote pool, carefully fenced and barricadoed. All agricultural operations of the fertile environs of Berhut, comprising one of his majesty's best grain farms, are annually performed by the surrounding population en masse. Several heavy showers which had recently fallen having fully prepared the ground for the reception of the seed, a vast concourse of rustics had collected from the entire district — the inhabitants of each hamlet bringing their own oxen and implements of husbandry : so that in the course of a very few hours many hundred acres, already ploughed, were sown and harrowed by their united efforts, the praises of the despot being loudly sung throughout the continuance of the tributary labor, which is similarly exacted in all parts of the kingdom. On the crop arriving at maturity, a sheaf is cut and presented in token of joy to the governor of the district. The reaping and threshing again call for the assembly of the agricultural population ; and the har- vest-home having been celebrated with suitable festivity, the accessions to the royal granaries are duly registered by scribes delegated on the part of the crown. Upon a rising ground, about a mile from Dummakoo, is held the monthly market of the district. Tradition asserts, that one of the inhabitants of a neighboring hamlet saw in a dream that the Imam Abdool Kadur, appearing upon this hill, picked up a stone, and in a loud voice proclaimed that the spot belonged henceforth to him- self ; and no sooner had the pious disciple of the Prophet declared his vision, than the site was adopted by the unanimous voice of the assembled multitude for the celebration of the bazaar, which, in the lapse of a few generations, has become one of considerable importance. Almost immediately upon arrival a visit was received from Habti Mariam,* the * i. e. The property of the Virgin. vice-governor, whose residence is at Wur- doo, the principal village of the Berhut district. He explained that his non-ap- pearance to escort the party from Ankober had arisen from severe opthalmia, con- tracted during a recent visit to the hot low country. Some very potent amulets had been now attached to various parts of his body in order to remove the disorder ; and the good man was moreover provided with a large raw onion, with which he rubbed his eyes alternately during the interview. It has already been mentioned that the influence of Wulasma Mohammad extends along the whole of the Moslem districts of the eastern frontier ; and it had now been advantageously exerted in the dispatch of a body of his immediate retainers, com- manded first to announce to the Adaiel on the border, the intention entertained of visiting their country, and afterward to escort the party thither. In order to coun- teract any offensive demonstration to which this unusual excursion might give rise, Habti Mariam had issued orders to assem- ble his levy, in accordance with strict in- junctions received from his royal master, to secure the safety of his " European children," upon penalty of loss of liberty and government. The greatest difficulty was, however, experienced in persuading his followers to undertake the much-dread- ed journey to the lower regions, as well from their unanimous detestation of the intense heat, as their innate dread of the lawless population ; and he was finally compelled to put them to the blush by a dec- laration of his resolve to perform the king's behest at all risks in his own person ; when a handful of the boldest setting the example, the lists were speedily filled to the number of two hundred and fifty, which force had been considered by the negoos as sufficient for the excursion. CHAPTER CXVI. ADEN ON THE CASAM RIVER, THE TERRI- TORY OF THE ADEL SUB-TRIBE GAREEM- RA DAMOOSA. A canopy of thick clouds clinging to the high hills of Ankober, had indicated that the rain still continued to deluge the more elevated regions ; but on the wide undulating plains of Berhut, the thermom- eter in the tents stood at 105° ; and al- though the sky was occasionally overcast in the morning, the sun shone with due iropical fervor up to the day fixed for de- ii THE DODOTI PASS— A CONFERENCE. 293 parture to the low country. It was still dark when the cavalcade filed past the church of St. George, which, ornamented with a triangle of ostrich eggs as a spire, stands at the extremity of the village ; and as every Abyssinian lip in succession sa- luted with a pious kiss the rough bark of the kolqual trees, by which it was fenced round, many a vow was made in propitia- tion of safe return from the dangerous expedition. Dawn of day found the party at the ter- mination of the tract of table land claimed by the crown ; and the sun, as he rose be- hind the lofty peak of Assibote, lighted the descent by the Dodoti pass, a winding path overhanging the valleys, which still lay in darkness. Commanding a boundless pros- pect over the burning plains below, it leads by a very judiciously selected line, with a gradual descent of eighteen hundred feet, over mountain ridges rapidly diminishing in height to the foot of the Abyssinian range, where, watered by the Casam, stretches the Adel district of Aden. Brown, barren, and sparingly wooded, the entire intervening space is broken by deep hol- lows and ravines ; and beyond, wild, deso- late, and hot, and surrounded by extensive white desert tracts, rise the isolated craters of Saboo and Fantali. Although waterless, the entire moun- tain-side is well peopled by Mohammadan subjects of Shoa, whose progenitors, ar- riving from the country of the sun, with the great invader Graan, selected this as the location most congenial to their habits, and with it bequeathed to their descend- ants, all the ancestral aversion to a cold climate. A stronger and more athletic race than the Amhara, the dark-eyed fe- males nevertheless present features far more feminine and agreeable than their coarse highland sisters ; and withal are far more becomingly attired. The hot dusty hamlets and scattered farm houses, which crown many of the peaks, are surrounded by extensive cultivation. The square domiciles, constructed of loose stones with mud terraces, afford sufficient accommo- dation, both for owner and cattle ; and the rich stores of grain, proclaim a life of in- dustry and abundance. The retinne of the governor increased rapidly with his advance. Every hamlet now poured forth its quota; and before reaching the Fotah river, he mustered full four hundred retainers, a rude feudal host of horse and foot. For some miles the road wound along the dry channel of the mountain torrent, the banks rising on either side steep and perpendicular, so as to form a deep chasm, partially obstructed by huge masses that had been precipitated from above. Here and there a solitary Karaiyo hamlet met the eye — the flocks and herds assembled in the neighborhood of the only well, around which the greasy maidens, in rude leathern petticoats, fearlessly drew water, proclaiming a district dependent upon Shoa. Debouching at length upon the plain of the Casam, the still increased temperature was at once perceptible ; and the feeble breeze stirring could not be felt through the mass of acacias and wild aloe which in full blossom covered the entire face of the country. Habti Mariam here confided his curly locks to the hands of an attendant barber, and his example was followed by a weather- beaten old warrior, covered with silver de- corations for valor, who had lost an eye by the spear of the Galla, but had just joined the party, looking with the other as if he intended to take an active part in the chase. An hour through the low jungle revealed the river at a point where the width is from seventy to eighty yards, a strong stream of turbid water running through a rocky chan- nel, in parts overgrown with groves of tamarisk. Skirting the northern bank a considerable distance over hot loose boul- ders and hard volcanic terraces, a promi- nent height was next gained, whence the view extended over the lowest valley threaded by the well wooded Casam, the whole reach of which was covered with great herds of horned cattle. Here the cavalcade halted, and was pre- sently joined, from a group of Adel wig- wams, by Godana, one of the braves of the Gareemra Damoosa, carrying a broad-head- ed spear, and wearing his lank hair twisted into thin cords. A long and animated conference ensued, through the medium of an interpreter ; in the course of which it was set forth, on the part of the puissant warrior, that the appearance of so large a body of the Amhara had led his tribe to apprehend hostilities ; that their flocks and herds were grazing in the vale below, peaceably tended by their young men and maidens ; and that as the unwonted descent of such a host of Christians could not fail to create great alarm, he was desirous, be- fore authorizing further advance, to be more distinctly apprised of the nature and object of the visit. It was explained by the gov- ernor, " that the sole intention was to hunt buffaloes — that the white men were the special guests of the king ; and having al- ready slain elephants at Giddem, his maj- esty sought to honor his friends the Ada'fel, by the performance of equally extraordinary 294 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. feats in their country— concluding with the assurance that the fear of the Ittoo Galla havino- alone dictated the presence of so many = followers, both Godana and his peo- ple might rest satisfied that the visit was in good faith, and perfectly pacific." The cattle having first been driven to a | distance, the Christian chivalry were final- I ly, after much demur, permitted to descend into the bed of the Casam, and there to en- joy the shelter afforded by groves of spread- ing tamarinds which grace its shady banks, the elders of the tribe being meanwhile summoned to debate the subject more fully. Parties of the Adel population of the ad- joining district of Desse now sauntered up by threes and fours, and tall, gaunt, mea- gre savages they were— their loins girded by a scant and filthy rag, but each equipped with a serviceable creese, a battered shield, and a spear decked with some trophy of the chase. The scowling downcast eye, habituallv half closed against the glare of their parched plains— the dissatisfaction so legibly written on every face — the sun- burnt bushy wag — the pinched features — the loose scambling gait — the air of inso- lent independence — and not least, the rank disagreeable odor— all combined to pro- claim them members of the great family peopling this sultry desert for hundreds of miles, and differing but slightly in manners or in appearance throughout the entire ot the wide extended tract. In the course of another fierce palaver, it was intimated that many expected to die before the affair should be terminated ; but the promise of handsome remuneration to survivors, in case of casualty, worked suc- cessfully upon Adel cupidity. After de- vouring a supply of bread that had been provided for the European party, and to those who till not the ground, forms an un- heard of luxury, they unanimously express- ed their resolution of acceding to the royal wishes, and of leading the way to their choicest preserves. Greatly to the horror of Moslem antipathy, the river had mean- while been dragged of many of its finny inhabitants by the Amhara, who are per- mitted to eat fish ad libitum, although pro- hibited from touching either flesh or fowl during the severe penance enjoined throughout the tedious fast of Lent. Under the guidance of a party selected by the tribe, the route was now continued along the bank of the river; and after passing a wild volcanic fosse, which winds for miles between high walls of black lava to the very foot of the Fantali crater, a halt was called upon a spot lower down the Casam, where grass was abundant. The bivouac was among huge loose boulders ; and between the bold headlands which bound the stream numerous glimpses were obtained of its distant course, as it wound calmly over the deep rocky bed. Fantali was now nqt more than six miles distant to the south. Although the existence of thermal springs was confirmed, the volcano was unanimously represented to have emit- ted no smoke within the memory of the present generation. The hill was pictured as a fiery furnace, and a desert waste, as the habitation of gins and demons— the communication having, however, from time immemorial been entirely cut off by the Ittoo and Aroosi Galla, who continually prowl over the intervening plain. Not- withstanding the smallness of the European band, and the fatigue entailed by the sultry march, former experience of Adel treach- ery, added to the habitual apathy, indiffer- ence, and timidity of every Amhara escort, enforced the necessity of precaution in so wild a spot ; and throughout the night a disciplined vigilance was accordingly main- tained by a revival of the long-neglected rules of " watch and. ward." CHAPTER CXVII. TRIUMPH OVER THE FOREST BULL. At break of day the hunters were in the saddle ; and the lava blocks which bounded the camp having been passed, a level tract was suddenly revealed, composed of hard clay, and destitute of a stone in any direc- tion. Wide-spreading camel-thorn acacias in full blossom, with their rich perfume, loaded the morning air even to satiety, and in long lines and clumps separated the outskirts into a succession of delightful glades of the most inviting aspect, which promised to teem with wild beasts of every variety. Five of the principal Adai'el at- tended in equestrian order, their slender waists begirt with the scantiest and dirtiest fragment of cloth, and their heads stream- in o- with grease — a chosen band of mount- ed* Moslems, from the retinue of Habti Mariam, being decked out in the flaunting spoils of lions and leopards which had fallen to their prowess. This motley group of wild riders set off at a furious pace across the flat, some scouring after every j insignificant animal that was descried, while others, truer wood-craftsmen, dili- gently scanned the ground over which they galloped. Last night's traces of the wanton strengtn of the giant monarch of the forest were vis- I THE HUNTING TRAIL— THE DEATH. 295 ible among the noble trees. Huge branch- es, twisted from the stem, lay scattered in various quarters, and the fresh foot-marks of the devastators were presently discov- ered. Several ineffectual attempts had been made to decrease the number of the rabble train, and the disturbance created had the effect, like the tail of the rattle- snake, of warning all of the approach of enemies. Myriads of clamoring guinea- fowl, whirring above the grove in every direction, spread the alarm far and wide ; and the quarry, driven deeper and deeper into the dark recesses, finally took shelter in a sea. of tangled bulrushes, which skirted the borders of numerous rivulets of run- ning water that pour their muddy tribute into the Casam. During several hours thus fruitlessly passed, the strenuous and unanimous ex- ertions of the retinue were most unremit- ting to prevent success ; but a limited party on foot, with three of the governor's braves, were at length induced to lead the way into the covert. Here the cast of a few hundred yards revealed the tracks of a buffalo, and the trail was carried through thick groves of wild tamarisk, whose shady boughs, meeting overhead, formed natural bowers and arcades. The tumult had now ceased. While stealing in Indian file through vast fields of tall flags, and carefully avoiding every projecting twig, the fresh traces of the quarry frequently demonstrated that he was close at hand, and at length a measured splashing of wa- ter in the broad channel below gave notice of his actual presence. The leading Adel cast a keen glance through the intervening screen of blue tamarisk, and, turning, pointed to both his eyes. From the brink of the river bank a noble buffalo was perceived rolling from side to side, as it waded indolently across the stream, which reached above the girth, ever and anon whisking its tasselled tail to dislodge a host of persecuting flies. Its intention evidently was to land immediate- ly below the ambush taken ; and as less than fifty yards intervened, each step ad- vanced rendered the target more unfavor- able. A two-ounce ball in the point of the shoulder, though it tumbled the unwieldy animal on its haunches, did not sufficiently paralyze its giant strength to bring it fairly down ; and before another rifle could be ob- tained, it had burst from the eddying water, and plunged into the adjacent thicket. No trace of blood rewarded the strictest scrutiny ; and, after a few minutes' delib- eration, the attendants pronounced the crimal unscathed; but finding the party positive as to the spot in which the bullet had taken effect, and firmly resolved not to abandon the quest, several able casts were made among the tall flags that wayed over the rivulet. Fifteen minutes passed on without a whisper ; then a low whistle from the thicket proclaimed the success of Koorbo the Adel. He had recovered the wounded beast, recumbent in the darkest recesses of the tamarisk grove, its red eyes gleaming through the gloom, saliva stream- ing in bell-ropes from the mouth, and the breathing hard and husky. A faint charge succeeded ; but its strength was on the wane, and as it stumbled across a prostrate bough, its demolition was completed. Singular pleasure could not but attend the conquest of this noble beast, standing nineteen hands at the wither. In spite of every existing disadvantage, the avowed object of the toilsome journey to the hot plains of the Adaiel had now been accom- plished, to the delight and the amazement of all ; whereas, to have returned to the king without a trophy, after his majesty's sage remarks upon the subject of buffalo- hunting, would, in the eyes of every one, have proved a blot on the escutcheon of the hitherto triumphant Gyptzis. No sooner had the unwieldy monster fallen in its last struggles than Adam, the chief of the braves, having severed the windpipe with true Mohammadan skill. advanced at the head of his band, and falling prostrate on the ground, returned thanks at the feet of the victor. Shields full of water to allay thirst were next brought from the river. Every creese was drawn, and the solid hide, after being removed with all expedition, was, for the convenience of carriage, divided into six portions suited for bucklers. Often re- peated blows from a heavy stone detached the great crescent horns from the beetling brow ; and these, with the ears, hoofs, and tufted tail, were borne off as trophies to be laid at the royal footstool. Elated at the conquest in a few minutes of a formidable and much-dreaded beast, whose destruction by these rude people — a feat sometimes occupying many days — is esteemed equiv- alent to the slaughter of eight Pagans in battle, the excited savages were presently retracing their steps through the intrica- cies of the wilderness. Flourishing the spoils aloft in earnest of victory, they al- ternately whistled and chanted their wild- est war-dirge, and the deep chorus raised at intervals made the recesses of the grove to ring again. Awaiting the return with some anxiety, Ayto Habti Mariana, surrounded by his ar- *% • 296 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ray of warriors, was seated beneath the spreading arms of a venerable acacia, which leaned in hoary pride over the bank of the bubbling Casam. Godana, the Adel brave, galloping wildly into the ring, vaulted from his rude saddle, and casting a sixth of the hide contemptuously upon the ground, de- clared the quest to be achieved ! During the performance of the war-dance, by which his gaunt and sinewy frame was long vio- lently convulsed, he sprang from side to side, quivering his spear with the most ferocious gestures, and chuckling in imi- tation of the gloating mirth of famished vultures that revel over their prey. His exhibition concluded, the other doughty heroes who had been present at the death, each in his turn, flung his trophy disdain- fully upon the earth ; and the whole, with shouts, and yells, and war-whoops, accom- panied by all manner of savage antics, then triumphed over the spoils of the slain. Greatly to the disappointment and sur- prise of the king's guests, the governor now intimated the necessity of returning forthwith to the high country. The pro- lific covert teeming with game of every description, a respite of only one day was earnestly and repeatedly solicited, but in vain. The Amhara, who had embarked in the rash enterprise with the utmost re- luctance, oppressed by the direct influence of the solar rays, and most anxious to ter- minate their sojourn on a perilous border, heretofore untrodden by Christian foot, with unanimous voice declared their pro- visions at an end ; while the Ada'iel, who still mistrusted the motive of the visit, and, now that the avowed object had been accomplished, would hear of no further tarry on their frontier, urged as an argu- ment for instant departure, that the Ittoo, " having heard the reports of the rifles, would not fail to be down in strength du- ring the night." Desultory hostilities are continually waged between these wild borderers, whose broils and feuds are endless ; and not six months had passed away since five hun- dred Pagans, bursting over the frontier, had plundered the Moslem vallies. But the tocsin, resounding from village to vil- lage, was promptly responded to by the gathered population, who pursued the marauders on their return flushed with success — recovered all the booty wherewith they were laden — and left the stark bodies of one hundred and twenty unbelievers a prey to the vultures of the air. Although a brave soldier, Habti Mariam was evi- dently unwilling to incur the responsibili- ty, " You came," he repeated, "to hunt buffaloes ; and by God's aid you have suc- ceeded. My control extends not to these disturbed districts ; and if blows should be struck, what account shall I render un- to the king my lord ?■" Further remonstrance being obviously useless, the AdaVel were assembled, and complimentary speeches having been de- livered laudatory of their assistance, an Abyssinian cloth and a handful of German crowns were placed among them for di- vision. Godana, on the part of his avari- cious tribe, made an oration in reply ; and waxing more and more animated as he drew toward the conclusion of the ha- rangue, ended by praying in a loud voice, "that Allah might conduct the princely visitors in safety to their homes, and cause their spear-blades to prevail over every foe ! — that the eyes of their adversaries might be blinded in battle — that plenty might crown their harvests, and blood, as now, ever bedew their hunting trail !" And during the pause that followed the interpretation of each of these benedic- tions, the governor, with his assembled host, ejaculated " Amen !" The Casam again recrossed, and the as- cent of the hills commenced, the sudden appearance of a colony of pigfaced baboons crowning the bank of the volcanic cleft, gave birth for some minutes to an appre- hension, among the Amhara, that the much-dreaded Ittoo were already hovering on the flank. But certain playful bounds on the part of the suspected objects soon dispelled the illusion ; and the setting sun saw the party safely encamped on a height overlooking a bend of the river. Its wide basin presented the remnants of volcanic action in a group of thermal springs which issue from the sod-grown channel at a temperature of 150° Fahrenheit, and flow steaming on beneath a grove of odorifer- ous fan-palms. Celebrated for their san- ative properties, the baths were speedily thronged by all who labored under any real or imaginary ailment ; and notwith- standing that they shrunk from the ex- treme heat, which threatened to scald a European finger, the immersion was per- severingly continued by a succession of patients so long as the daylight lasted. CHAPTER CXVIII. RETURN TO DUMMAKOO. In the absence of a standing army, it is truly astonishing by what magic spell the m— ti A \' R EUESTS OK T1IF. CATHKDRAL OF ST. MICHAKL CHRISTIAN VVAimiOR&QF BHOA. EQUITATION— THE ABYSSINIAN HORSE. 297 inhabitants of these remote portions of his majesty's dominions are bound to his rule. Owing to the difficulties insepara- ble from the introduction of an armed force for their chastisement, and the very inaccessible nature of their fastnesses, no situation could be more favorable to revolt and to rebellion. But it is strikingly ob- vious, that the wily policy of reticulated governments will prove sufficient for the accomplishment of the end, so long as the fear of the Galla is strong in the breast both of Christian and Mohammadan, and so long as the name of Sahela Selassie shall con- tinue to act as a potent talisman upon all the savage, turbulent, and refractory spir- its who people his disunited empire. During the early portion of the night, the shrill crowing, as of a hundred cocks, might have induced the belief that the wild camp stood in the neighborhood of Ankober, where chanticleer taxes his throat almost incessantly ; but the sound to which the wild hills now rung was as- certained to proceed from the Amhara pickets. With a view to compensate in some measure for the brief sojourn con- ceded in the low country, the hunters were hurried off the moment the morning star appeared, in order to beleaguer a field of reeds occupying the bed of the Casam. It was said by the governor to terminate in a cul de sac, and to be one great den of lions, no fewer than eight having fallen under the spears of the Adaiel in an at- tack made some years previously. The path traversed the deep broken bed of the river, the lofty castellated walls of which rising sternly in the moonlight, were gar- risoned by a legion of baboons, and before dawn, the forces halted on a sheet of bare rock, over which a small stream of water fell by a time-worn channel into a deep dark basin ; — many hundred acres of tall waving flags, interspersed by shady trees, stretching away over the long reach beyond. But the capabilities of the place proved to have been greatly exaggerated ; and, although certainly harboring a vast num- ber of the felince, it was far too extensive and too tangled — too impervious to man, and too unassailable by fire — to admit even of a chance of success. An agazin and an oryx, of which numbers fled in all direc- tions, were hunted down and mobbed by the host of retainers, aided by their dogs. A feeble attempt was then made to dislodge the inmates of the wide covert, by a gene- ral screaming and clattering of shields on the outskirts ; and this notable display of venerie being concluded without any good 20 result, the cavalcade wended its way home- ward. Mounting on the left side, with the as- sistance of his spear, the Amhara when in the saddle does not by any means ride well. Frequent falls are precluded by the high bulwarks of wood and leather which fortify his position ; but his seat is awkward and ungainly ; and although a horse is carried at speed over bad ground, few cavaliers can be said to possess the noble science of equi- tation. While violently kicking with the naked shanks, and retaining the stirrup in the grasp of the great toe, they tug vio- lently at the cruel and barbarous bit ; and the blood is to be seen streaming from the mouth, as the tortured animal tosses its head in agony. The bridle is especially powerful and severe, long cheeks being attached to an indented bit, while a solid iron ring em- braces the lower jaw, and acts like a tight- ened curb, to the effectual restraint of the most violent temper. The saddle is of Tartar form, and consists of two light splinters, leaving a clear space for the spine, and connecting a high wooden pom- mel for the suspension of the shield to a cantel equally high. Firmly sewn together with wet thongs, the tree is padded, cov- ered with a loose skin, and furnished with stirrup rings, just sufficiently capacious to embrace the first toe of the shoeless eques- trian. The Abyssinian horse would in England be considered under-sized, and deficient in make and bone ; but the breed is hardy, enduring, and sure-footed, and, from the low price demanded, might with advantage be exported to some of the eastern colonies. Colts reared among the Galla are deserv- edly held superior, the reckless character of the wild pagan rider impelling them over the most difficult ground, and thus impart- ing a degree of boldness and confidence which is rarely to be found in the Amhara steeds. In Shoathe absence of roads mili- tates against the use of wheeled carriages ; and established custom forbidding the em- ployment of the team in agriculture, the gelding is reserved exclusively for the sad- dle, while mares and stallions are very rarely ridden. The art of shoeing is un- known, and no attention is paid to the care of the hoof, which, being extremely hard, for a time bids defiance to the stony ground ; but many nevertheless were already be- ginning to suffer from the want of a farrier. The horse is by all considered a very inferior animal to the mule, whose soft agreeable pace accords much better with the general indolent habits of the Abyssin-^ 298 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ian, and whose patience and surety of foot among the steep rocky mountains are suf- ficiently appreciated. The prices given are consequently larger, and the care taken of the latter is proportionably greater. While the steed, scantily supplied with old straw, runs in the pasture during every season of the year, the mule, on the failure of the herbage, is pampered on barley and on the best of teff fodder, and, sheltered from the cold bleak wind, remains a con- stant inmate of the master's dwelling, on terms of close intimacy with the family. Twenty-five or thirty miles within the day are rarely exceeded — the high hills to be ascended, and the deep rugged valleys to be traversed, rendering a longer stage almost impracticable. The usual pace of the sure-footed mule is three miles during the hour, but when the road is level the amble is increased to five, and the pedes- trians of the party still continue to retain their place. A saddled steed is led in the train ; and, excepting in the hereditary do- minions of Shoa, the traveller is fain to keep a good look out for the roving Galla, and to do battle on the moment, if occasion requires. On again reaching the gorge of the F6- tah river, the governor, surrounded by the most puissant of his chivalry, and preceded by a band of bold spearmen, each decorated with some flaunting trophy of the chase, advanced with a measured war-dance, and a martial chorus, which made the deep cleft reecho. These triumphant strains were continued with little intermission du- ring the whole of the steep ascent, and in spite of the intense heat of the sun, which shot forth with greater fervor than ever, were swelled occasionally by his own voice. Dense clouds of dust and sand, such as might be raised by a charge of ten thou- sand cavalry, whirled up toward the sultry sky from the scene of recent exploits ; and the Amhara, already fanned by the cooler breeze of the highlands, looked down upon the execrated plain with joy at their deliv- erance from its burning atmosphere. From each hamlet along the route the inhabitants sallied forth with shrill acclamations, to greet the return of the adventurous party: the entire female popula'ion of Dummakoo, receiving the white strangers near the church dedicated to the tutelar saint of England, led the way with kettle-drums and shouts of welcome : and for many hours after arrival within the dark walls of the king's granary, every quarter of the village resounded with choral music. A visit of congratula ion was immediate- ly paid by a dim, nut. ve gentleman, who boasted descent in a direct line from the celebrated Graan, and whose more imme- diate ancestors possessed the vicegerency of the greater part of the country just vis- ited. Ali Qui occupied a farm in the vicin- ity of Dummakoo, and he was accompanied by his tall, fair, dark-eyed daughter, clothed in crimson, and loaded with amulets and amber necklaces. .Possessing the Abys- sinian accomplishment of begging in the very highest perfection, the worthy Mos- lem presented a jar of milk, and requested the loan of five hundred dollars to pay for his estate ; while the coquettish damsel brought a loaf of bread, and exerted her powers of eloquence to bring about an ap- plication to the throne for the restoration of her parent to his hereditary dignities. She was known by the eccentric appella- tion of Khumsa Kirch, or " fifty crowms " — a title bestowed in commemoration of a fine to that amount levied on the day of her nativity upon Ali Qui, as a punishment for the escape of a state prisoner consigned to his custody. The easy and ingenious mode of extor- tion by mamalacha, exists in full force throughout the land, and all are equally amenable both to its abuses and to its pri- vileges. Bringing any article within his means, no matter what, the begging peti- tioner hands it over to his superior as a memento for anything that he has the as- surance to demand. Servants offer a stick or a bundle of grass, and ask for swords, clothes, and money ; w r hile chiefs and the highest officers of state, present to the throne a pot of butter or a cloth, and seek to receive in return a horse, or a mule, or an embroidered garment. If the mamalacha be received, the case is hopeless ; and in- deed the custom of the country requires that the extortioner should be never met with a negative. Thus, on the occasion of loss by fire or other casualty, the sufferer makes the round of his acquaintance, who each contribute a mite to the subscription ; and wonderful license being given to im- posture, the individual upon whom fortune has laid a heavy hand, soon waxes more wealthy than before. No petitioner ever enters the presence of his superior unless furnished with dn offering according to his worldly means, as a bribe to propitiate favor and good-will. Cattle and honey, cloth, wood, and even stones, are presented ; and this system is invariably observed in all quarrels and dis- sensions, where either party desires recon- ciliation. Without the intervention of a mediator, this cannot be effected. A third individual is therefore sought, who will un- PERTINACIOUS BEGGARS—WOIZORO ASAGASH. 299 dertake the arrangement, and to his hands the affair is consigned. The king himself often accepts the office, and of course is very rarely unsuccessful. Inferiors come into the presence of their official master with large stones upon their heads ; and, prostrating themselves upon the earth, seek forgiveness of their offences, which at the intercession of the all-powerful mediator, is seldom withheld. The oath by his ma- jesty's life is the most potent in use. If adjured by the death of Sahela Selassie, non-compliance can be visited by punish- ment ; and the wilful breach of the solemn obligation renders the perjured party liable to penalties the most severe. From the highest to the lowest, all class- es are most pertinacious beggars. What- soever is seen is surely demanded — guns, knives, scissors, beads, cloth, mirrors, and dollars. The love of acquiring property stifles every sense of shame ; and no com- punction is felt in asking for the cloak from off the back, or in carrying it away during a pitiless storm. The Amhara even take a pride in this national failing, and boast that the child before coming into the world will stretch forth its hand to receive a gift ; while tradition extols as highly praisewor- thy and deserving of imitation the conduct of a certain great Abyssinian chief, who on his death-bed desired that his body might be interred in the track of a caravan, in order that, if possible, his spirit might be in the way of receiving a dole from the passing merchant ! CHAPTER CXIX. THE KARAIYO GALLA. CRATERS OF SABOO AND FANTALI. As each evening closed, the most mag- nificent stormy effect now appeared over the high range of Bulga. Dark clouds, occasionally pierced by a bright ray of the sinking sun, drove in dense volumes across this mountain wall; and as they rolled on toward the lofty cone of Mega- sus, they revealed in their track the pre- cipitous and rugged nature of bluffs which had heretofore presented an unbroken sur- face. Rain not unfrequently fell during the night, and penetrating the flimsy cot- ton awnings, as if they had been cullen- ders, rendered an umbrella necessary to- ward the protection of the damp pillow. Resolved to view the mys'erious Fantali from the country of the Karaiyo Galla, whence might be determined the importaut 20* question of its activity or quiescence, an excursion was next planned to the lake Muttahara, whose glassy bosom, surround- ed by great belts of yellow grass, and stretching along the western base of the volcano, had been regarded with intense curiosity, as it sparkled under the beams of the setting sun. Absence of water on the road, rendered it imperative that the party should be limited ; and the insuper- able aversion displayed by every follower to a second expedition to the low country, therefore, caused little disappointment. Many had already suffered severely from inflammation of the eyes ; and greater dif- ficulty could hardly have been experienced in obtaining volunteers for the most des- perate forlorn hope ever undertaken — the Aroosi beyond the Hawash, a tribe distin- guished for surpassing ferocity, being de- clared the bitter, blood-thirsty enemy of every Christian and Mohammadan. The governor had already proceeded in advance, to collect his vassals ; and on the morning fixed for departure a heavy white fog, such as is wont to envelope the capital of Shoa during three-quarters of the year, veiled the entire face of nature. The first five miles led across the richly cultivated terrace of Berhut, amid numerous hamlets which gradually became visible as the mist ascended. Aingodiye, on the top of the pass, together with the entire district of that denomination, pertains to the lady asagash, who, decked in her holyday cos- tume, and shining under a sheen of butter, politely sallied forth, with her train of household slaves and handmaidens, to greet the passing strangers. This portly dame, whose appearance is truly indicative of her wealth, was the fa- vorite concubine of the famous Medoko at the period of his assassination ; and having been suffered by the despot to retain the extensive domains conferred upon her par- amour during the days of his glory, a thrifty disposition has swelled her hoard of corn, oil, and beeves, beyond all bounds. In her retinue came a disconsolate couple chained together by the wrists — thieves no doubt — and said to be man and wife, whom the woizoro facetiously declared it had been found requisite to link by bonds stronger than those of wedlock, in order to counter- act a decided disinclination to the society of the husband, evinced by the inconstant spousa i;i three several elopemeuts. Descending by a steep pass through the district of Gooroon za — a perfect wilder- ness of rugged mountains — the road cross- ed the river of that name near its junction with the Casam, and shortly afterward the 300 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. Casam itself, from which all the villages for many miles round derive their supply of water. Taking its source in the ele- vated plains of Germama, this tributary of the Hawash escapes through the moun- tains by a deep defile, worn in the lapse of ages by the autumnal torrents, betwixt Mentshar and Bulga. Thence it winds on beneath shadowy bluffs of rock rising per- pendicularly to a terrace — a system of ridges jutting out from the high table land, and dipping on both sides into the stream. Of these, the principal is the frowning promontory of Gougou, which, like a nat- ural fortress, abruptly terminates the Tudla Mariam plateau, extending to An- gollala in one uninterrupted terrace, cele- brated for the capsicums and fine cotton wool raised by its Christian population. From the bed of the Casam the road wound up the Choba ravine, through a fissure formed near the point of junction by two gigantic blocks of granite, which rise perpendicularly to a towering height on either side, and hem in the rugged de- file to a straightened pass of just sufficient width to permit the transit of a mule. The stupendous pass wore the appearance of having been hurled in remote ages from the summit of the impending cliff, the force of the concussion rending it in twain, and forming the key to a road, which by a handful of resolute men might be defended against the mightiest host. An ascent of one thousand feet over the Woleecha mountain, by a narrow path worn in the columnar trap, led to another elevated pla- teau, where, after the arrival of the gov- ernor, the staff was set up for the night at the Moslem village of Seeagur, eleven miles from Dummakoo. The threshing-floor whereon the tent was erected, standing upon one of the many tongues of table-land that intersect the district of Wolagur, looked down a long valley, bounded on the opposite side by the similarly perpendicular wall of Boor- kikee, upon the verge of which, surround- ed by a milk-bush hedge, rose the secluded church of St. George, the last Christian edifice of Mentshar. The sudden termi- nation of the terrace, which abruptly drops into the country of the Galla, commanded an extensive prospect over the wilderness of Taboo, bounded by the distant blue hills of the Gamoo and Aroosi. Rising among the Sama Galla, and overflowing the level land in the season of its height, the Taboo, like most of the secondary streams in this district, is dissipated by the fiery heat of the plains, and expends itself before reach- ing the Hawash. Double the number of retainers, both horse and foot, who actually appeared on the morrow, had been summoned ; but many preferred paying the fine incurred by absence, to accompanying their liege lord into jungles hitherto little trodden by the Christian. A respectable retinue was, however, in attendance ; and the party set out at an early hour for the lake Muttahara. A rugged winding descent, due south, led to the foot of the Wolagur range, whence an extensive grassy tract stretches away to Fantali, beautifully wooded, dotted over with flocks and herds, and disclosing in every direction the bee-hive cabins of the Karaiyo, a tribe equally rich in cattle and in pasture land. It is now fifteen years since an Amhara expedition, under the dech agafari, over- ran this then independent district from the highlands of Mentshar. The inhabitants, flying for shelter to their thick hook-thorn coverts, sustained little loss in killed ; but the whole of their wealth was swept away, and thirty thousand fat beeves were pre- sented to the monarch on the plains of Angollola, as an earnest of successful fo- ray. Since that period the Karaiyo have been nominally dependent on Shoa. paying an annual tribute of twenty oxen, and the left tooth of every elephant entrapped or found dead — a mild taxation with which they are sufficiently content to abstain from revolt, although the hold over them is too slight to admit of further impost — the principal advantage derived from their submission being the interposition of a bar- rier against the inroads upon the Amhara frontier of the savage Aroosi. The Karaiyo territory, extending about forty miles in length by thirty in breadth, consists of a succession of open unculti- vated plains, covered with luxuriant shade, and intersected by low ranges of hills, rising in all the exuberance of turfy grass, dotted with spreading trees — alto- gether a highly enviable site for a small nomade tribe, although much scourged by the neighboring Aroosi, and presenting the very theatre for a hasty inroad. Portions of the district often suffer much from drought ; but a most opportune fall of rain the preceding night had completely deluged the country, and poured into every pool along the route a plentiful supply of mud- dy water. Taking an easterly direction toward Fan- tali, numerous well-peopled hamlets were passed, occupying all the secluded nooks, and as wealthy in flocks and herds as if the Amhara besom had never swept the land. From constant exposure to the heat RECENT VOLCANOES— LAKE MUTTAHARA. 301 and glare, and the habit of closing 1 the eye- lid to increase the power of vision, the swarthy features of even the youngest of the blinking inhabitants were deeply fur- rowed with premature wrinkles, which, with a turn-up nose, rendered those who had numbered many seasons, truly hid- eous. In an easterly direction the course was bounded by the great isolated crater of Sa- boo, yawning in the very centre of a well- populated plain, and said to have been in full activity in the time of Sahela Selas- sie's grandsire, who reigned only thirty years ago ; an assertion which was fully borne out by the recent appearance of the lava streams. The long-horned oryx, with great herds of antelope, grazed around eve- ry pool — the latter little disturbed by the presence of those who tended the flocks of sheep and goats, and whose groups of circular wigwams peeped forth in every sequestered corner. An ancient crone of surpassing ugliness, attired in a leathern petticoat flounced with cowry shells, was busily engaged by the wayside in transferring muddy water to her scrip, and looking up, was perfectly horri- fied at the appearance of a white face on the opposite border of the puddle. For a few seconds her old teeth chattered audibly, and then, satisfied that there was no deception, she called loudly upon the goddess Ateti, threw herself back upon the ground, and became a prey to abject despair. Resuming a southerly course from the foot of the crater, the path led at right an- gles over a tract strangely rent, and riven, and jumbled together — high perpendicular walls of lava separating deep broken abyss- es, the form of each dark-heaving billow being distinct in the rolling tide amid the brilliant belts of verdure by which it was streaked. Inkoftoo, the principal Karaiyo kraal in the district of Kadecha Dima, rose suddenly to sight, when there were still many hours of daylight. Standing beside an extensive pool, screened on all sides by luxuriant trees, it was strongly fortified by stiff thorn branches against the inroads of the lion ; formidable troops of which, roam- ing almost unmolested, commit great havoc among the cattle, and had only the night before carried off a youth belonging to the village. It wanted still some miles of the spot in which Habti Mariam had resolved to en- camp, near the borders of the Muttahara lake, whose placid surface, not less than two miles across, extended almost to the base of the Fantali. The chief of Inkof- too had seen a rhinoceros in the morning among the dense thicket of hook-thorns covering the declivity of a hill on the way ; but although one of the governor's braves, elevating his sheep-skin mantle upon the point of his lance, charged the assembled multitude in the king's name to abstain from clamor, and from interference with the arrangements made for beating up the quarters of the " ouraris" the clattering hoofs of the advancing cavalcade presently put the animal to flight toward the Ha wash. It were difficult to determine whether the fear of the Aroosi or of wild beasts now predominated in the minds of the Am- hara escort. In spite of a heavy fall of rain, large watch-fires were kindled in va- rious parts of the lone bivouac, and not a single eye was closed until the day had fairly dawned. CHAPTER CXX. THE AROOSI GALLA. GREAT CRATER OF WIN- ZEGOOR. VOLCANIC WELLS. WILDERNESS OF TABOO. Extensive morasses, environing the sedge-grown borders of the Muttahara wa- ter, proved it to be far below its wonted boundaries, and precluded all access to Fantali, even had the timidity of the guides been sufficiently overcome to induce them to acquiesce in a visit ; but the non-exist- ence of any active volcano for more than thirty years was confirmed by all. The Kobederntoo and the Gobakoobee districts form the limit of his majesty's Karaiyo pos- sessions within a few miles of the Hawash, and thither the cavalcade proceeded in the morning. Arriving near the mountain Sa- deka, one of the outposts of the Aroosi, whence the wooded line of the river could be traced for miles through the naked plains, bearings were obtained to the conical peak of Serie, and other conspicuous landmarks. But the appearance of a small party of arm- ed savages in the distance, soon induced precipitate retreat on the part of the escort, who by no means relished the delay. A band of treacherous barbarians had only a few weeks previously made a descent upon the Karaiyo cattle, and after putting all the herdsmen to the spear, were hurrying off with the booty, when they were pursued in force, and put to flight with the loss of twelve of their number. Another preda- tory visit was. daily anticipated ; and the caution was in every mouth, " If two war- riors be perceived upon the same horse, 302 THE HIGHLANDS OF ETHIOPIA. ask no questions, but shoot them without mercy." , Sahela Selassie has never yet attempted an expedition in person against these war- hawks, nestled in the lap of the mountains, who fight stark naked, and are besmeared with lard from head to foot. Merciless, and of predatory habits, they are represent- ed as extremely powerful in battle, and are the terror of every surrounding tribe — two warriors usually bestriding the same steed, and aiding each other with barbed lances jagged like the teeth of a saw, and with bucklers manufactured in relief, to imitate the shell of the tortoise. Subsisting en- tirely by plunder, the cultivation of their high cold hills is but little attended to ; salt, which forms the principal article of barter with Gurague, and other inland bor- dering countries, being obtainable in un- limited quantities from the lake Laghi, two days' journey from Serie, one of the prin- cipal market towns. Noora Hoossain is the capital of the Aroosi Galla, who are all followers of the prophet ; and the principal towns of their adjacent neighbors the Ittoo, a race of mixed Mohammadans and Pagans, are Chercha and Metokoma. The rhinoceros was said to abound in the Karaiyo neighborhood ; but Habti Ma- riam would consent to no further sojourn on this dangerous border with so limited an escort, and at noon retraced his steps to the village of Inkoftoo. Here all the braves and principal men of the tribe were gath- ered to recount for the royal edification, by retail, their recent exploits with the preda- tory Aroosi, as well as the particulars at- tending the slaughter of an elephant calf that had fallen under their united lances a few weeks previously. A single spear wound in a tender part having stupefied the beast, hundreds of warriors rushed in and overwhelmed it. Every participator in this notable achievement, which is one of ex- tremely rare occurrence, now wore his gar- ments saturated with gore and fat, and dis- played on his person some distinguishing ornament or feather; while the doughty hero who claimed first blood, strutted about under a perfect load of sable and green plumes, brass chains, and massive ivory armlets, precisely similar to those worn by the ancient Egyptians. Not quite satisfied as to the object of the visit, the Karaiyo had collected the whole of their great droves of cattle in the precincts of the hamlet. Among them were many splendid sanga, with wide-spreading horns upward of six feet in length ; under which preposterous attire they moved as majestically as the stag " proud of his twelve tynes." A heavy storm of dust obscured the en- tire face of the landscape in the direction of Saboo ; arriving near to which, a path struck off to the westward to the encamping ground on the side of the Kozi mountain, above a snug Karaiyo hamlet, whence pro- visions were obtained. The Amhara fol- lowers, although still restricted by the fast of Hodadi, from participation in animal food, were fain to incase their naked and blister- ed feet in portions of the hide of an ox slaughtered for the entertainment of the more fortunate Mohammadans ; the fields of lava lately traversed, like the " iron stones" celebrated in the travels of the Jesuit fathers of old, being " like the dross that cometh from the furnace, and so sharp pointed withal, that they spoiled a pair of new shoes in a day." The next object was to visit the far-famed volcanic well of Boorchutta, on the frontier of Mentshar, bordering on the wilderness of Taboo, which was to limit the wander- ings of the party. Shortly after gaining the summit of the Kozi mountain, the road wound along the very brink of the gaping crater of Winzegoor, from whose monstrous chasm the entire adjacent country has been recently overflowed. Extending two miles in length by one and a half in breadth, it is environed by perpendicular walls towering from six to eight hundred feet, two gorges to the east and southeast having afforded an outlet to the boiling deluge. The area of the whole basin affords occasional glimpses of jet black through belts of the most brilliant verdure ; and two bare trun- cated cones, thrown up during an eruption some thirty years previously, having poured a serpentine stream high over the sur- rounding jungles, remain dark and cindery as on the day when they were vomited by the pillared flame from the bowels of the great abyss. Three miles beyond Winzegoor, the cav- alcade was halted preparatory to the pass- age of a dangerous defile, said to teem with the execrated Aroosi hordes, and to form their favorite ambuscade. A council of war was held. The troops being formed into a dense body, a wobo was appointed to pre- vent straggling, and to command the rear- guard. Scouts proceeded in advance to reconnoitre, and the strictest silence hav- ing been enjoined, the order was for once obeyed. Dismounted men and grazing horses descried on the impending heights of Boobisa, soon caused dire alarm ; and consternation reached the climax when, on gaining the gorge of the hills overlooking the wilderness of Taboo, the scouts ran in breathless with intelligence that a large BOORCHUTTA WATER— BLOODY ARENA. 303 body of cava]ry occupied a rising ground not two miles from the van. The jingling bells around the necks of the mules having been muffled, the party, drawn up in battle array, advanced with the utmost caution, until the gleaming of the white garments and cross-emblazoned shields of the fancied foes proved them to be none other than the Meritshar detachment of horse under Ayto Nigdoo, who had been expressly called out to reinforce the Amhara in event of the Aroosi being abroad on a foray. Having joined the allies, who had in their turn been equally disconcerted at the appearance of the forces of Habti Mariam, the party proceeded to cross the valley of Jiggra Mulkinia, " the place where the guinea fowls feed." This fine level plain, hemmed in by high hills, presented a per- fect garden of wild flowers blossoming amid a most luxuriant second crop of grass, the result of a late conflagration. Many hundreds of the white-rumped mhorr brow- sed on it undisturbed, and the pintado and the partridge seemed to be without end. A belt of dog-rose bushes, camel-thorns, and a highly aromatic undergrowth which bordered the base of the range styled Juj- mba Kulla, harbored a small herd of ele- phants, and they were soon perceived lux- uriating among the young juicy reeds. But the retinue contrived as usual to put the whole to flight ; and under a furious thunder-storm, which in ten minutes cov- ered the whole plain with pools of water, the cavalcade, drenched to the skin, ar- rived at a late hour on the skirts of the Boorchutta water, where the night was to be passed. This singular well, which wears the semblance of the crater of a gigantic mine, is situated in the bosom of the almost per- pendicular mountain of Jujjuba Kulla. One narrow path, of barely sufficient width for the bulk of an elephant, leads to the water's edge, through the termination of a deep narrow gully with inaccessible banks. Enormous blocks and boulders of coal- black rock, which choke this channel for the last hundred yards, seem to have been canted out of the bowels of the earth by subterranean convulsion, and form a sort of revetment to the front of the circular pool, which measures sixty feet in diam- eter, and gave "no bottom." Behind, a gray broken wall rises perpendicularly from the basin to the height of two hun- dred feet, crossed by vermilion bands of lava, honeycombed with a thousand cavi- ties and fissures, and overgrown in parts with the most brilliant vegetation. The still, brimstone-colored waters were glassy smooth, and not a breath stirred within the deep suffocating crater, where the fall of a pin produced an echo like that of a whis- pering gallery. Black martins wheeled over the surface — pigeons cooed amid the clefts and crannies — and hairy baboons grimaced and chattered on the impending cliffs, from which trailed ten thousand fantastic roots, laid bare by the torrent that pours into the well during the rains from the ravine above — at some very remote period evidently a continuation of the chan- nel below, but severed from