JLIBUARY OF CONGRESS.? I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.^ . \ c^ \ . } w GUIDE TO BOSTON AND VICINITY, MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS. By DAVID PULSIFER. ^" BOSTON: A. tv"ii:jLia.]ves & coM:i>^i«rY. 18 66. .5 Kilt* led, nccordinfi tn Act of Congress, in the 3 ear 18ti6, by DAVID PULSIFER. In the Clerk's Office of the Dutiict Court of the District of MaBsachusett*. 3^^< \ Stereotyped by C. J. Peters & Son, 13 Washington Street, Boston. I J >f . . M kcy j; ■ >^ KK jjjBim^)i}>,) ' , I ""^5^ 3*7' ^^r.V,' MAP Of ) ~ ~~ ■ b' ^ .-«^ irilli till- m-" /,1/iinili '^'"^'., f\:utiis. . <'-^-w(', /,ir«>^ **>'"' 7<-*^! B r.rr. 1 .ftfl//- fkntsr 2 ^iU I.-. //,m.T,l Athm.rum 17 llr.vrn':irt IH 7'rfmont J/ou,rr Wr/mrn/ .n,i/<.r Itiilrl a ,Varll.or.> Hnlrl llAilum.^ Huiur 'S.\ Amfrfi-tin llintjf ■1\ /li.7/.W«* //'""^ •i»M.rM Atmor^/luiUUuj tA>' ^ A> t _ 7^" V I?:. •--"r^T CAST B08T0M. / / EXPL4N4 TIONS / T/ie tnudlfiauj-es \ ' i/tdiccdc t/i£ loccUii'i, of i/ic H^'cuds Bouiuiaj'ies KiUl Rvads istJicMrt/iSide. SeaU of Fut PREFACE. In submitting to the public a new edition of the Guide to Boston, it is proper to state, that free use has been made of material in Mr. R. L. Midgley's valuable work (the copy- right of which has been purchased) ; that portions of this material have been entirely remodeled, and large additions have been made from the most authentic sources. To many friends who have kindly assisted in furnishing information and illustrations for this work, the undersigned tenders his grate- ful acknowledgments. D. P. CONTENTS. CHAPTER 1. Ancient Boston 1 CHAPTER II. Faneuil Hall. — Faneuil-Hall Market. — Custom House.— Exchange. — Old State House 7 CHAPTER III. Old South Church. — Birthplace of Franklin. — City Hall. — Court House. — Stone Chapel. — Cejjetery 21 CHAPTER IV. The Boston Museum. — Historical Society 36 CHAPTER V. Boston Athen.kum. — club Houses 40 CHAPTER VI. Trejiont Temple. — MioioN AON. — P.iRK Street Church. — The Granary Cemetery. — Music Hall— United-States Court House. — Masonic Temple 48 CHAPTKR VII. The State House. — Hancock House.— Boston Water- Works 63 VI CONTEXTS. CHAPTER VIII. Boston Common. — Old Elm. — Frog Pond 72 CHAPTER IX. Public Garden. — Providence L)iiPi>r. — Public Library ... 85 CHAPTER X. Worcester Depot and Road. — Old-Colonv and Fall-River Depot and Road DO CHAPTER XI. Boston Theatre. — JIelodeon 98 CHAPTER XII. Mercantile Library Association. — Lowell Institute. — Op- era House. — Bra rTLE-siTHEET Church.— Bowdoin Square 103 CHAPTER XIII. Lowell Depot. — E.vstern Railroad Depot. — Fitihburu De- pot. — Copp's Hill. — Maine Depot 110 CHAPTER XIV. Massachusetts Medical College. — Massachusetis Gen- eral Hospit.\l. — Waurkn Museum ok Natural History. — M'Lean Insane Asylu.m. — City j.\il. — Eye and Ear In- firmary 117 CHAPTER XV. Back Bay 127 CHAPTER XVI. Charles-River Basin and Soltm B\y 138 OUXTENTS. Vll CUAPTEK XVII. The Ml'seum of the Boston Society of Natural History. — TECHNOLOCilCAI. INSTITUTE 141 CHAPTER XVHI. Education. — Newspapers 145 CHAPTER XIX. Young Men's Christian Association. — American Congrega- tional Association. —The General Theological Library 149 H APTEK XX. MouNT-VicKNON Church. — Mission.xry House. — Massachu- setts Sahbath-.schooi, Society. — New-England Metho- dist Depository.— Ameisican Tp.act Society. — Amlrican 'l^ACT Society, New-England Branch.— Massachusetts Bible Society 154 CHAPTER XXI. Horticultural Building.— Great Organ . . , 166 CHAPTER XXII. New-England Historic-Genkalogical Society. — Sons of Temperance.— Washingtonian Home —Home for Little Wanderers 171 CHAPTER XXIII. BoTsox Hotels. — Charities.— Fire Telegraph 180 CHAPTER XXIV. Cambridge. — Old Fortifications. — Harvard Institute, Gore Hall, Washington House, Riedesel House, Wash- ington Elm. — Mount Auburn 197 via (JOXTENTS. CUAPTEli XXV. Bunker Hill. --Monument. —Statue of Gkn. Warren. —Na- vr Yard. — State Prison.— Harvard Monument 220 CHAPTER XXVI. Woodlawn Cemetery. — Rock Tower. — Netiierwood Pond. — Chelsea 234 CHAPTER XXVU. Concord. — Lexington. — Dorchester Heights. — Perkins In- stitution FOR THE BlIN-1^ • 239 CHAPTER XXVIII. NAHANT 249 CHAPTER XXIX. Boston Harbor. — Islands. — Farm School. — Alms-House.— Fort Independence. — Fort Winthrop 260 CHAPTER XXX. Blacestone Square. — Franklin Square. —Williams Mar- ket. —Forest- Hills Cemetery 269 Addenda 286 CHAPTER I. ANCIENT BOSTON. BOSTON was settled by Gov. Wintbrop and bis asso- ciates, in 1630, and received its name in bonor of tbe Rev. John Cotton, who emigrated from Boston, in Lincohishire, England. Its original Indian name was Shawmut. This little book is intended to be a guide to tbe princi- pal objects of interest in the City of Notions ; therefore we shall not enter into any details respecting the rise and ]>rogress of Boston. If you know nothing of that. 2 DOSTUN AND VICINITY. but are desirous of such information, procure Drake's History, published at number 13 Broinfield-street, and in it you will fin.l all you require. We will, then, suppose you have arrived in Boston, and that, having located yourself at one of its miiny spacious hotels, you have commenced your tour of the city. It is always well to have sonic defined point to start irom, and therefore we will select Dock-square :ts the scene of our first exploration. Dock-square. — It is not a square, now, in tlie literal acceptation of the word, though possibly " once upon a time " it was. Very long ago grass might have grown there, and trees flourished, and birds sung, and no dock ever have been dreamed of. Only a prowling Indian, in search of a squaw or a scalp, might have been seen in the vicinity, and all excitement have been confined to a palaver around the council-fire. But a truce to the past ; it is Dock-square, and nothing else, now. In lieu of groves or glades, we have a busy, open space, with labyrinthine thoroughfares leading into and out of it. Bustling, anxious-faced men are to be seen there at all hours of the day, rushing hither and thither, intent on dollars and dimes. House and hotel keepers pay flying visits to the market close by; visitors from all parts of the States look curiously at the " Cradle of Liberty ; " omnibuses rush along, distracting perilled pedestrians ; BOSTON AND VICINITY. 3 market-carts, laden with country produce, stand sur- rounded by dealers, and everything is full of lilb and animation. Looking calmly down upon and over- shadowing this .scene i,f connnen-ial activity, is a huge Structure, Faneuil Hall, of which we shall presently speak. At present, let us direct our glance to a specimen of ai'jhi- tecture of the early days of Boston. The okl bulkllug here represented stood on the corner of North and Market Streets until 18G0. It was built in the year 1680, soon after the great lire of 1679 ; but the giant Progress, in his march of improvement, \vd< trodden down this ancient dwelling Others, however, of equal or greater age, may * BOSTON AND VICINITY. still be seen. That at the corner of Dock Square and Fa- neuil-hall Square, formerly occupied by George Murdock and A. A. Wellington, is of the number. Here, on the last day of May, 1813, the lamented Augustus C. Ludlow, first lieutenant of the frigate Chesapeake, called and drew a check for stores sent on board, remarking at the time to a fellow-officer, as a reason for settling the account then, " The Shannon is in the bay, and God knows where we shall be to-morrow." This building, now over two hun- dred yeai's old, may remain for years to come. Dr, J. V. C. Smith, in his " Ancient and Modern Boston," published in the Boston Almanac for 1853, says : ' There are reminiscences connected with the growth of IJustun that deserve to be kept in remembrance. For example, where the Maine Station House, in Haymarket- square, stanils, there was an open cunal but a few years ago, and the line of the track is over the course of it to tlie water. Where Causeway-street is, (here was formerly a wall from Lowell-street, running north-easterly to rear of Charlestown old bridge, called the Causeway, making a jiond of many acres, between Prince and Pitts streets. Many aged persons are in the habit of calling all that region between Merriraac and Prince streets, to this day, the Mill Pond. A remnant of the last tide-mill is still believed to exist on the east side of Charlestown-street, in the form of a stable. All of that large tract of land BOSTOX ANP VICINITY. 5 known technically as the South Cove was actually a body of water, covering an area of seventy-two acres, within the recollection of those not fur removed from childhood. The Neck may truly be said to be nearly all artificial. Where the wide street runs to Roxbury, was a mere ridge, scarcely removed from the reach of high tides, at the period of the Revolution. By building the Boston and Roxbury Mill-dam, the whole of the back bay, between Washington-street and the wall, was reclaimed from Charles river and the ocean. " Whole streets have been detached from the domain of Neptune, as India, Broad, Commercial, Brighton, nearly the whole of Charles, Fayette, and several more that are now at considerable distance from the water. At East Boston very large additions to the territory have been made within a few years. AH the wharves, by which Boston is nearly surrounded, are certainly artificial works, of immense cost, but esteemed excellent and productive property. It is not irapiobable that men are now living who remember to have seen the bowsprit of vessels pro- jecting into Liberty-square." Bostun is styled the Athens of America. It 5>hould have been the State. In Boston the princely merL-hant's warehouse presents the appearance of a palace, massive iin I 14 liOSTOX AND VICIXITV. w:th highly-wrought capitals ; the ceiUng is ornamented in a neat and chaste manner, and the skylight is filled ■with stained glass. The building was commenced in 1837, and entirely completed in 1840. It has cost about $1,076,000, includ- ing the site, iuuuuatiuut, i^e. Passing up State Street, we soon reach The Exchange. It is a splendid building, fronting on State Street. The corner stone was laid August 2, 1841 ; the building com- pleted 1842, and cost, exclusive of land, S17 represent for particulars ; and it is no easy job to make a selection ; for there is the Journal, Traveller, Transcript, Advertiser, Post, Commercial Bulletin, Herald, and I know not how many others, whose shadows do not fall on the hundred-year-old windows of he Old State House. I CHAPTER ni. OLD SOUTH CHURCH. HIRTHPLACE OF FRANKLIN. CITY HAF.L. COURT HOUSE. STONE CHAPEL. CE5IETERY. The Old South Church stands on Washington Street, not far i'lom the Old State House. So much his- torical interest is attached to this time-honored building that we must be pardoned if we are rather minute in our notice of it, for which we are indebted to a sketch in Gleason's Pictoral. During the first of the seven years' war, a church of this then town of Boston of ten thousand inhabitants, that externally appeared much as it now does, internally pre- sented a strange scene. The sanctuary was profanely converted into a riding school for Burgoyne's cavalry. The pulpit and the pews, all halloAved by devotion, had been taken out to light the fires of our enemies, the library of the good pastor being used for kindlings. Hundreds of loads of dirt and gravel were carted into the church, that it might better answer the strange use to which it was put. A box was suspended four feet fi'om the floor, over 22 BOSTON AND VI( IMTV. whicli fierce horses, driven by iui.uus ridei's, kaped. The galleries were occupied, not, as now, by those who freely heard the word of God, but by spectators of the games below, and by those who sold lifjuors and refreshments, not having a reverence for the sanctuary, nor the fear of the ]Maine Law before their eyes. The Old South Church, a- every body knows, was the centre of this dissipation ; a chinch that has been intimately connected with the history of Boston from an early period. At the time alluded to, 3Ir. Blackstone's farm was converted into the town of Boston, containing " about two thou.-and dwelling houses, mo>tly of wood, with scarce any public buildings, but eight or nine churches, the Old Slate House, and Faneuil Hall." The Old South Church, like the First Church, and the first Baptist, was organized in Charlestown by seceders from the First Church, who were disaffected Avith a call extended to Hvv. John Davenport. The first meet- ing hon-e was erected on the sjiot where the present one stands, coiner of Washington and Milk Streets. The site was the gift of ]Mrs. Norton. Avidow of Tlov. John Norton, who was ])astor of the Fii'st Church. The first house was ei-ected soon after the chunTi was gathered, in 1GG9. It was built of wood, with a s])ire and square pews. The first pastor was Rev. Thomas Thatcher, an eminent divine, a native of Salisbury, England. Besides being an emi- nent theologian he was a physician, and published the first BOSTON AXU VICIXITY. 2'5 nit'Jk'al tract that cvtr was iss-ued in Massachusetts. His successors were Willard, the eminent divine, Femberton, the eloquent pulpit orator, Sewall, who was known as '" good Dr. Sewall," w ho was pastor of the church lor fifty years, and when his health failed, near the close of his life, was carried into the jmlpit, and instructed the people iioni Sabbath to Sabbath ; Prince, the able divine and learned s-cholar, Cumiuing, Blair, liacon. Hunt, Eckley, Huutinyton, the lirst sole pastor ; the devoted Wisner ; the gifted and short-lived Stearns ; Blagdeu and Manning, who now minister to this ancient church, — sixteen iu all. The p)-esent Old South Church is a substantial structure of brick, of a style of architecture that is chaste and be- coming, though not uncommon. It stands as it has stood lor more than a century — it having been erected in the vear 1730. The last sermon was preached in the old house March 2, 1729. The next day it was taken down, when it was found to be so much decayed that it was thought the congregation, the day before, had "a very gracious preservation." A curious plan of the lower floor of the present house is before us, under the head, " Pues on ye lower flore in ye Metting House," evidently drawn soon after the building was finished and the pews sold. From this plan it appears that the house is eighty-eight feet by sixty-one, and that it is substantially now as it was at the beginning. Formerly there was a high elders' seat 24 BO.STO.X AND VICINITY, directly in front of the pulpit, and a deacons' scat nearly as high. Several of the best pew.s in the house, accord- ing to the custom of the time, were devoted to the accoui- modation of tlie aged — a custom that has become ob.-o- lete. In this plan the names of the pew holders arc given, embracing some of the noblest names of the time, such a-i Governor Belcher, Franklin, Bromiield, Brattle, Winslow, Cotton, Eliot, viciMav. 25 more than any other church in the city. The pulpit i- very high for these times, and is overshadowed by a .-ound- ing board that malies httle children fear for the head of the minister This pulpit is the second in the ])re.-(Mit liouse, the lir.-t one bein regards the bearing's in our harbor, as tousidered by the pilots, but is al^o a point of departure, so to speak, on the land itself There are few notable localities in the city of notions better known than is ihis venerable and revered jjile, and the site it occupi(>s — a silent remembrancer of scenes and events associated with all that is dear to Americans. There is a library connected with this church, that was bequeathed by Rev. Thomas Prince. It is a precious roll(;ction, containing many standard works in church his- tory, biblical literature, valuable pamphlets, and manu- scripts. For nearly one hundred years this has been the public libiary of that church, and accessible to any per- son desirous of using it for literary purposes. The Biuthplack of Franklin w^as where the block of stores now stands that bear the inscription. On that s])ot, under the very shadow of the Old South's tall spire, the printer, the legislator, the philosopher, the inimorial Fraukliu, was born, whose statue, the work of Richard S. Greenough, may be seen in front of the City Hall in School Street. Passing from Washington to Ti-emont Street, through School Street, the visitor will perceive on his right hand the new City Hall, built of line white Concord granite. Exclusive of the sub-eellar, l)asenient and attic stories, liUSTON AND VICINITY. it is three stories iu lieii^Iit. Its front is a hundi'ed aud thirty-eight feet in length, with a projection extend- ing fourteen and a half feet from the main line, and fifty- one aud a half feet iu length. The building is ninety- five feet deep in the wings, and a hundred and nine and a half feet in the centre, and cost about $500,000. The corner-stone was laid on the 22d of December, 1862, with Masonic ceremonies, conducted by the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts, under the direction of the Most Worshipful Grand Master, William D. Coolidge. •JJ^ BOSTON ANL» VICINITV. lu the second story is the mayor and aldermen's room, forty-five by forty-five feet, and twenty-five feet fonr inches high, extending upward to the height of the third story. The common-council chamber is located iu the fourth story, directly over the mayor and aldermen's room. It is forty-five by forty-five feet square on the floor, and twenty-seven feet in height to the ceiling, whic-h is octag- onal. It has galleries on three sides, capable of seating two hundred and fifty persons. Wifhin the columns which support the galleries are iron piUars, sup[)orting the immense weight of the dome, which is surmounted by a balcony, from which rises a flag-staflf whose height above the ground is two hundred feet. Four well-execut- ed lions' heads look out fiercely from the corners of the dome. The upper stories of the building are reached by double flights of staircases, surrounded by ample halls. The staircases are of iron, Avith balusters of native oak ; and are firm, spacious, and of eiisy ascent. The architects have done themselves great cix-dit in giving to Boston one public building with staircases worthy of the name. The corridor leading from the School-street entrance to the staircases is fifteen feet in width. In the wall back of the first landing, and facing the vestibule, is a tablet of exquisite workmanship, composed of veined Italian si- BOSTON AND VICINITY. 29 enna and white statuary marble, upon wliich is the fol- lowing inscription : — CITY HALT. Corner Stone laid December 22, 1862, J. M. WiGHTMAX, Mayor. Dedicated September 17, 1865. F. W. Lincoln, Mayor. G. J. F. Bryant, and A. Gilman, Architects. The new edifice presents a grand and imposing appear- ance, even when viewed at the short distance from which only it can be seen. As the visitor ascends its magnifi- cent staircase, or looks from its windows upon the pro- jecting cornices and beautiful columns, he is deeply impressed with the majestic proportions and massive ^' strength of the structure. European travellers, and per- sons from other cities of the United States, unite in the opinion that nowhere on this continent can a municipal building be found of such elegance, and so well adapted for its designed use. The fence in front of the building corresponds well with the dignified architecture of the edifice. The peninsula, originally eight hundred acres in extent, and now, by gradual encroachments on tidewater, about fourteen hundred, was known at the early settlement, Avhen William Blackstone was its only inhabitant, as Shawmut. Subsequently, for a short period, it was called Tri- 30 BOSTON AND VICINITV. mountain. In 1630, Sept. 7, old style. 17, new, it re- ceived from tlie General Court the name of Boston. It comprises within its municipality South and East Boston, and Lou;!, Thompson, Apple, Deer, and Gallop's Islands in the harbor ; and its present area is computed at about tliirty-one hundred acres. After many inelFectual efforts, one as early as 1650, it was organized as a city. May 1, 1822. Its population in 1760 was 18,000; in 1782, 12,000; in 1790, 18,000; in 1800, 25,000; in 1810, 33,000 ; in 1820, 43.000 ; in 1860, about 190,000. Its valuation, as assessed for city, state, and county taxes iu 1865, is $376,000,000. Boston, Chelsea, North Chelsea, and Winthrop consti- tute the County of Suffolk. The city government, elected in December, consists of the mayor and twelve aldermen, and a common council of forty-eiglit members, four from each Avard. The board of aldermen, who are also the board of health, county commissioners, surveyors of highways, and possess certain police powers, hold their regular meetings on Mon- days, at four, P.M. ; the council, on Thursday evenings. Much of their business is transacted through from forty to fifty committees, joint or several, standing or special, according to the distribution of powers or subjects re- ferred. Meetings of some of the principal committees, such as streets, paving, claims, and public l>uildings, arc BOSTON AXU VICINITY. 31 held at s ated times, for the greater convenience of the public. The assessors, four chief, nine assistant, and sev- eral per diem ; tlie water-board ; directors of public insti- tutions at Deer Island and South Boston ; directors of Mount-Hope Cemetery ; treasurer ; auditor ; physician ; engineer ; registrar ; superintendents of health, lands, build- ings, sewers, lamps ; the chief engineer of the fire depart- ment, and his assistants ; and the harbor-master, — are elected by both branches. The chief of police, deputy, clerks, eight captains, sixteen lieutenants, sixteen ser- geants, detectives, and three hundred and twelve patrol- men, with superintendents of the tombs, trucks, carriages, pawnbrokers, and the constables, sealers, inspectors, and various other officers, are appointed by the mayor, and approved by the aldermen. Near the City Hall, and in its rear, is the CouRT House. It stands in Court Square. There is not much to attract attention within, it being merely plain and sub- stantial. An entrance-hall traverses the entire length of the building, communicating with the porticos and side-doors. Stone staircases, branching off from this corridor, lead to the various court-rooms. On die first floor are the Justices' Courts, Court of Insolvency, and the offices of the clerks of the different courts. The Supreme Judicial Court for the Commonwealth sits for the hearing of legal arguments on the first Wednes- 32 BOSTON AND VKJINITY. day of January. The Supreme Judicial Court lor the county of Suifolk sits for jury trials, and matters to be licard by a single judge, on the tirst Tuesday of April and October; and. ibr the hearing ot mutters in equity, the court is practically open every day at (chambers when a judge is present; the Superior Couit on the tirst Tues- day of January, April, July, and October ; the Supe- liur Court for the transaction of criminal business on the first jNIonday in every month. The Municipal Court is busied every day in the trial of criminal offenders, and also sits every Saturday tor the transaction of civil busi- ness. The Social Law Library Room, on the second floor, is a comfortable and well-lighted apartment, and con- tains a good selection of juridical text-booLs, including writers in general law, and the English and American Reports. In the basement are cells for the temporary accommo- dation of prisoners; and at the side door opposite tiu! the Raih-oad Exchange may be s(!en every morning, about nine o'clock, the jail van discharging its load of prisoners for examination. To one fond of seeing human nature in all its phases, an hour in the Municipal Court any morn- ing will not be thrown away. Nearly opposite the City Hall is the Parker Housk, a 'pncious marble-front hotel, conducted tipon the Euro- BUSroN VM> Vl< INIIT. ...i peau plau, — oue of" the most popular ret*taiiiant.s iu iii/.-- toii. Not far f'i*om here, ou the corner of Trenioiit and Beacon Streets, is the equally well-known Treniout House. Stone Chapel stands at the corner of School aiul Tremont Streets. It was built in 1750, and is a phi in. stibstantial structure. The corner stone was laid bv G<)\- ernor Shirley. Tiie Cf.meteiiy adjoining (from tlic jui- cious dust it holds) should be forever revered by naii\c and stranger. Johnson, the " Father of Boston," as he has been termed, according to his wish was buried here ; and the people evinced their affection for him by ordering their bodies to be biu-icd near him; and this was the origin of the first l)Mrving-plnce in Boston. The Lady Arabella, his wife, was the pride and love of the colony ; and hi-torians tell us that though there were several other women of distinction wlio encountered the fatigues and dangers of those days with laudaljlc reso- lution, the devotedness of this lady — lady in deed as well as name — was conspicuous above all. The sentiments of her lu^art to him are described in the following language : " Whithersoever jour fatall destine shall di-yve you, eytlier by the furious waves of the great ocean, or by the many-folde and horrible dangers of the lande, I wyl surely not leave your company. There cau 34 UOSTON AXl) VICINITV. no peryll channce to me so terrible, nor any kinde of death so oruell, that shall not be mueh ea-ier for me to abyde than to live so farre separate from you." She eame to the wilderness, illumined it l>y her love, lier piety, her charities and faith, and died in the then mere village of Salem. Not one of those who had known lier but wept bitterly at the event. It was as if all the flowers of the garden should hang their heads at the blast- ing of the rose. May her memory distil sweets upon the hearts of wives like her ' And from her fair and unpolluted flesh May violets sprin?;," forever. Many are the good and great whose remains repose here ; but no character of those days has comt^ down to us with brighter memories than that of Governor John Wn>- tnrop, wiioe remains also repose in the Chapel Burial Ground, in the family tomb, on the north side. ,f..,--~ll^g;i»;g,iSa ^-'"*«"i,liii CHAPTER IV. THE BOSTON MLSKL'M. IIISTORICAI, ><)CIKTY. On Trcnioiit .Street, between Court and Sehool Streets, stands the Boston Muski;m, lion. Mosms Kimball pro- prietor. It is a spacious buildini^, three stories high ; its front adorned I)y balconies, and i"o\vs of glass globes, "wliicli, at night, are illuminated by gas. We reach the interior by a bold flight of stairs, at the summit of which is the entrance to the Hall of Cabi- NKTS, which is surrounded l)y a gallery, and whose ceil- ing is supported by noble Corinthian |iill;ii's. Along the gallery are arranged portraits of celebrated Americans. On the floor of the hall are statuary and works of art, and, arranged in glass eases, curiosities from all ])aits of the known world. The galleries, reai-hed liy a grand staircase, are filled with the rich and rare products of many a clime. Ascending still higher, we find a collec- tion of wax-figures, singly and in groups ; and surmount- ing all is an ol)servatory, allbrding splendid views of the city, the harbor and its islamls. The MusKiM Thkatkk is very well managed. The li(>>TON \N1> \ l( IMIV 6/ visitor there has uo rowdyism to fear, and nothing occurs to offend the most fastidious. .'")8 BO.STON AND VIClNl'n. The Museum buildiuir covers twenty thousand feet of" land, and is crowded with every variety of birds, quad- rupeds, (isli. rei)tiles, insects, shells, minerals, fossils, &c. Then there is the Fekjick Mkumaio, alluded lo by Bar- num in his Autobiography, together with more than one thousand cf)stly ])ainlings, among which is Sully's great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware, porti'aits by Copley, West, Stuart, &c. In short, there are to be seen nearly five hundred thousand rare or curious articles, and all for iho marvellously small sum of thirty cents. The rooms of the MAS-SACiiusinTs Historical So- ciety are next to the Museum, iu a granite building on Tremont Street. The library of the society contains about sixteen thousand volumes, with maps, charts, and seven himdred and nincly-one volumes of mauuscripis. Among the treasures are mauusoripis of the historian Hubbard, of the first Governor Wiuthrop, eleven volumes of Governor Hutchin.--on, of Govcriior .Jonathan Tnnn- hull, of Connecticut, twenty-three volumes, and the manu- script of Washington's address to the officers of the American army. There i.> al.-o a copy of Eliot's Indian Bible. The portraits of per^ons, mostly >«'ew England worthies, adorn the room ; two of special value are. Rev. Increase Mather, and Sebastian Cabot. These rooms contain many relics of the past : among these are Philip's sutiip pan, an anicle of Indian antiepiity that perhaps BOSTON AM) VICINITY. 31) may have been used by Mas?a?oit liiniself before it be- came the })roperty of his youngest son, the renowned sachem of Pokanoket : and here also is Captain Ciiiircli's sword, witli which the chief was slain. The Carrer sword, a worthy memento of a pilgrim, speaks louder than words of the dangers our forefathers incurred be- fore a city's smoke rose from the three hills of Shaw- mut; and Wi7ishnr''s chair, that tradition says "was made in London in l(il4, and brought over in the Mayflower by Edwai'd AVinslow," now, after many years of hajxl service, is treasured as a valuable heirloom. Also the Dowse Library, containing 4,650 volumes of rare works, richly bound. CHAPTER V. BOSTON ATIIKN.KCM. — Cl.VH HOUSES. ^•3''// The majniifioont ])uiltlinji for tlio use of the Boston Athkn.ki M is sitiKitcd on licm-oii Street, near tlic Slate House. It is of I'atieisoii freestone, and in tlie Pallad.an 40 BOSTON AND VICINITY, 41 Style of architecture. It is one hundred and fourteen feet ni length, of irregular breadth, sixty feet in iieight, and stands ten feet back from the street, tlie ground space in ifont being surrounded by a balustrade with stone coping. The main entrance opens into a panelled and decorated rotunda, from wliich fine iron staircases conduct above. The ScLLi'TiKE GALLiiKY is in the first story, and is eiglity feet in length. Its entrance is immediately oppo- site tlie front door. Here is to be found a line collection of works of art in mai'ble, and casts in plaster. Among them are the following in marble : Orpheus entering the realms of Pluto in scuirch of Enrydice, by T. G. Crawford ; Ilcbe and Ganymede, by the same sculptor ; bust of Daniel Webster, l)y Powers ; bust of Allston, by Clevenger ; group of cliihlren, l)y II, (ireenough, and the celebrated Venus de Mediei. The collection is very rich in casts from the antique statues in tlie Valieau. Among them, the statues of Mercury, Minerva Polias, Meander, Silenus with the infant Bacchus, Athlete, Barberini Fawn, Fighting Gladiator, Dying Gladiator, and Discobolus, Michael Augelo's Night and Morning, Thorwaldsen's Ve- nus, the Laocoon, and Apollo Belvidere, are represented by fine casts. The Reading Room is on the right of the vestibule. On the left is the library of the American Academy of 1* 42 BOSTON AND VICINITY. Arts antl Sciences, In the vestibule stands Ball Hughes's statue of Bowditch, and a cast of Houdou's statue of Washington in the State House of Virginia. The LiBKAUY occupies the second story, which is divided into three rooms, two in front, and one large hall (one hun- dred and nine feet by ibrt}) in tlui rear. This hall is beautifully finished in the Italian style. The shelving is carried to the height of eighteen or twenty feet, and the upper shelves are niaile accessible by means of a light iron gallery reached by li\e spiral staircases. Besides eighty-five thousand bound volumes, this library pos- sesses fifty thousand or more of unbound pamphlets, and between four and five hundred volumes of engravings. It also contains part of the library of Washington, — in all about four hundred and fifty bound volumes. The library is hardly surpassed, either in size or in value, by any other in the country ; and although strictly a private institution for the especial benefit of its stockholders, — it being an incorporated stock company with a capital and property of more than half a million, — its regula- tions are iVanied with the design that it shall answer the higiiest purj)()ses of a public library. Strangers are free to walk through the library, and can easily obtain ail- mittancc as readers by the introduction of a proprietor. PiCTUUE Galleky. — The third story contains three rooms that are approj)riated to the exhibition of paint- BOSTON AND VICIMTV. 43 inj^s, and of ihe^e there is an admirable collection. A numbered catalogue may be obtained at the door. Many of the paintings belong to private individuals, and arc liable to removal ; so we shall avoid mention of them, and briefly touch on a few belonging to the AtheniEum. Here are the original portraits of Washington and of Lady Washington, by Stuart ; the Sortie of Gibraltar, by Trumbull ; Judith, Avith the head of Holofcrnes ; Count of Wiirtemberg lamenting his Child, by Ary Scha?ffer ; St. Michael chaining Satan, after Guido ; Priam receiv- ing the dead body of Hector, by Trumbull ; Feast of Bel- shazzar, by AUston, and Allston's fine original heads of Benjamin West, Isaac of York, and the Jew. In con- clusion, we cannot help mentioning Dante and Beatrice, by Ary SchoclFcr, and St. Peter's release from Prison, by AUston. The gallery is well worthy of frequent visits, and will doubtless do much to promote the progress of art in Boston. Admittauce thirty cents, the Sculpture Gallery in- cluded. Proceeding towards the State House, a few steps bring us to the large house, corner of Beacon and Park Streets, a mansion interesting from the fact that it was fitted up when a club-house for the accommodation of General Lafayette and his suite, when the illustrious friend of Washington was the guest of the city. At the period u BOSTON AND VICINITY. ol" the Revolution, the almshouse stood upon this site, ox- teuding on Beacon Street beyond the westerly boundary of the Atliena3um estate. Next to it, on Park Street, was the workhouse; tiieu came the town pound; on the site of Park Street Cliurch stood the granary, whence the name of t!ie adjacent burying-ground. In the enclosure of tlie workhouse yard, we believe, the bodies of the w ^ Ji:' X 4 mi British soldiers killed at Bunker Hill were laid out, in the order of their regiments and companies, previous to inter- ment. The old almshouse was pulled down in the year 1^00 ; IHJSTON AM) VlCINirY. 4.J uu(l, ill the early part of tlie cuutury, the large biiihiiug shown iu the engraving was erected lor Thomas Aniory ; and, when in the occupation of Governor Gore, the body of FisilER Ames, nlio died July 4, 1808, was thence taken to the place of interment. Tlie northerly part of the edifice was jn-epared for the reception of General Lafayette in 1<'S24, and afterwards used as a club-house. The southerly portion is now tiie residence of George Tickuor, well known to the public by his literary tastes and productions. The Uxiox Cluij-IIouse, one part of the front of which is seen iu the picture, adjoining the residence of Mr. TIckn vi(;iNnv. iiiid will compare with those of the renowned clubs of London. They include a library and a restaurant. The members of this club embrace the most eminent names in the political, literary, and business circles of Massa- chusetts ; and its influence has been constantly and power- fully exerted in aid of the Government during the civil war, and in hospitality to the most distinguished friends of the Union from all parts of this country and from H broad. The social clubs of the city are strictly private in their character, and are ail of them of comparati\ely recent date. The Quariintiuo Club, of forty members, existed thirty or forty years ago, on Milk Street. About the year 1840, the Tremont Circle was organized on Tremont Row, and grew into the Somerset Club, now consisting of nearly two hundred members, o0 . liOSTON AM> Vl< rNITY. least degree. The front gallery, though it projects into tlie luill only ten feet, extends back ikr enough to give it more than three times ihat di'pth. Directly opposite liiis gallei-y is tin* |)l;itform, with its graeef'ully-panelled, semicircidar frcjiit. This plath)i'm, covered with a neat oil clotii. communicates with the, side, galleries hy a few ste[)s, for tiie conveni«M»ce of large (jhoir.s. There are also several avenu(^s of communication from the ])laiform to llu* apartments, dressing rooms, &c., behind. whicJi are exceedingly convenient, and are far superior to tiie places of exit and entiance from and to anv other place of the kind tliat we hav(^ ever seen. From the front of the platform the floor of the hall gradually j'ises so as to afford every person in the hall a i'ull and unob.-tructed view of the sp(;akers or vocalists, as the case may be. The ^eats in the galleries rise in like manner. The seats on the hall floor are admirably arranged in a semicircular form from the front of the l)latibrm, so that every face is directed towards the s])eaker or sing<'r. They are each one numbered, have iron ends, are capped with mahogany, and are completely cushioned with a drab-colored materia!. Each slip is capable of containing ten or twelve persons, with an aisle at ( ach extremity, and open from end to end. Tlu; side walls of tlie hall ai'e very beautifully orna- mented in panel-, arched and tlecorated with circulai' I'.OSTOX AND Vlt'INITV. 51 oi-naiueiit-, which would be difficult properly to describe without the aid of accompanying drawings; but as views of the ititcrior of the Temple will soon be common enough, the omission here will be of little consequence. As we intimated, there is no fancy coloring; it is a decorated and relieved surface of dead white, and the etfect, lighted as it is from above by large panes of rough plate glass, is beautifully chaste. The only color observable in the hall is the pur[)le screen behind the diamond open work at the back of the. platform, and which ft)rms a screen in front of the organ. The ceiling is very finely designed in squares, at the intersections of Avhich are twenty-eight gas burners, with strong reflectors, and a chandelier over the orchestra, slu.'dding a mellow but ample light over the hall. By this arrangement the air heated by innumerable jets of gas is got rid of, and the lights themselves act as most efficient ventilators. The eyes are likewise protected I'rom glare ; and should an escape of gas take place, from its levity it passes u]) through shafts to the outside, and does not contaminate the atmosphere below. Undei- the gallei-ies are common burners. There are for day illuni'- nation twelve immense j)lates of glass, ten feet long by four feet wide, placed in the ceiling, in the spring of the arch, and open directly to the outer light, and by sixteen smaller ones under the "-alleries. rr> IJOS'IOX ANU VK'INITV The whole of the flooring of the hull, in the galleries, the body of it, and of the [jlatfonn, consists of two layers of board-, with the interstices between them hlk'd by a thick bed of mortar. The advantages of thi^ in an acous- tical point of view must be obvious to all. Another ad- vantage is, that the applause made by the audience in this great hall does not disturb the })eople mIio may at the .-ame time be holding a meeting in the other hall below — a very important consideration. There are eight flights of stairs leading from the floors of the main hall, and four from the galleries, the aggre- gate width of which is over fifty feet. The Boston Young Men's Christian Association occupy several beautiful rooms up one flight of stairs, which are aer TeJnple. It is pronounced j\Ii-o-na-on. This lesser temple is situated back from the street, and directly under the great hall. It is seventy-two feet long by fifty-two fett wide, and about twenty-five and a half feet high. Not so elaborately adorned as its neighbor overhead, this hall is remarkably chastely and beautifully fitted up, and within its walls the religious society of Trcmont Street Baptist Church wor- ship. Its walls are relieved by pilasters supporting arches. The seats are similarly arranged to those in the hall above, and are equally comfortable and commodious in all respects. At one end is a platform, on which, on Sabbath days, stands a beautiful little pulpit, of dark walnut, and cushioned with crimson velvet. At the other extremity of the hall is a gallery for a choir; back of it stands a neat little organ. The place is beautifully adapted for sound, and competent judges say fiom their own experience that it is a remarka- bly easy place to si)eak in. From the hall to the outer door the way is through a broad passage way covered with 5* 54 BOSTON AND VICINITY. ]Manilla matting let into the floor, so that little dirt can be brought in from the street ; and as the doors swing on noiseless hinges, no interruption from scuffling of feet or slammings can ever occur. The Cltola. — In making our way thil her we travel o\ er the ceiling of the great hall, dropping our heads as we pass beneath roof and rafter, to save our hat and skull, and beholding beneath our feet a great network of gas- j)iping connected with the burners of the hall under us. In long rows are square ventilators, which discharge their sti'cams of vitiated air on the outside. The cupola forms a spacious observatory, glazed all round, and fiom vvcrj window is obtained a charming view, the whole forming one of the most superb pano- ramas that we ever witnessed. From this elevated spot may be seen the adjacent villages and towns, the iiarbor and its islands, the city institutions, churches, liou-e--. and shipping. In short, the whole city and vicinity lies ;i! our feet. Pauiv Street Church is situated at the corner of Trcmont and Park Streets. The spire is remarkably beautiful, and the interior very sjiacious and striking. Cloe by lies Granary Ik rying Gi;oind — a spot hal- lowed by the remains of many goofl, and brave, and beau- tiful as such can be. Here a mouiunncnt has been laid over the graves of Dr. Fnuiklin's parents. It is an obelisk BOSTON AND VICINITY. i)0 t went}' -five feet high, formed of seven blocks of Quincy granite, each weighing about six tons ; and the name of " Frankhn " can be easily read from the street. The stranger often stops to gaze at the flowers blooming among tiiose gra}' old tombstones, or to i-ead the time-worn inscrip- tions of the mourned ones' virtues — virtues perhaps not visible during life, but " known and read of all men " when they have passed away. Nearly across the street from here is The Nkav Music Hall. — Until within the last few years, although a musical peojde, the city Avas sadly in 56 BO.>*TON ANU VKJINITY. want of a littinpj place tor concerts, &e. ^'o\v, howevei", we have a ]Music Hall of the first class, which we can refer to Avith pr.de a.^ an ornament to oni' metropolis, and an index of the laste and liberality of Boston. There has been no atteni])t at display on the exterior of the building, it being deemeil important to reserve, as i'ar as practicable, for the interior ihe means contributed iur the enterprise. The hall is one hundred and thirty feet long, seventy- eight feet wide, and sixty-five feet high, the proportion of length to width being a.> five to three, and of length to height as two to one. Two balconies extend round three sides of the hall. The ceiling, which is forty feet above the floor of the upper balcony, is in general section flat, and connected with the wall by a large cove, in which are seveiUeen semicircular windows, that light the hall by day. A row of gas jets, pi-ojecting from the edge of the cornice, just below these windows, light the hall l)y night. The floor is arranged with seats whi<'Ii will accommo- date upwards of fiflecn hundred persons, and there is suffi- cient room in the balconies for upwards of one thousand more. The orchestral platform is raised five feet abov*^ the floor of the hall, and rises by a few steps to the organ. Vrum f ach side of the orchestra to the floor of the lower nosroN AM) VI< IMTV. ;>< balcony is a emeries of raised platlbrms for chonstcrs, or for the audience, as uwiy he required. The whole on-he-- tra will aceoiiiiiutdale ii|)w;uideration of the utmost importance in a building intended lor a music hall. The architect, George Snell, Esq., has (nideavored to combine in this structure the advantages which he has been able to discover by a careful per.-onal examination of numerous music halls in Europe and America. This is of es];ecial importance, as thei-e has been placed here one oi' the largest organs in the world. [See page 1 70.] In the matter of ventilation, the architect iiad the assistance of the large experience, in that department, of Dr. Morrill Wyman, of Cambridge. Mr. Alpheus C. Morse, a native of Boston (a partner of Mr. Snell), also assisted in the arrangement of the decorations of the in- terior. The entrances are from Winter Street, Bumstead Place, and Bromfield Stieet. Ample accommodations are afford- ed for drawing rooms, alcoves, offices, &c. The United-States Court House (formerly the Ma- sonic Temple) is situated on the corner of Tremont 08 Boston and viciNiTy. Street and Ti-nijile Place : it is sixty ieet Avitk', and eighty feet long, and fronts westwardly on Tremont Street. The walls are fifty-two feet high, of stone, covered with a slated roof, twenty-four feet high, containing sixteen windows to liglit the attic story. Tlie gutters are of cast iron, and im' waicr trunks are of coiJiJcr. The basement is of fine hammered granite, twelve feet high, with a belt of the same. The towers at the corners next Tremont Street are sixteen feet square, sui-mounted with granite battle- ments, and pinnacles rising ninety-five feet from the •Trnaid. The door and window frames are of fine liam- BOSTON AM) VICrXTTT. i>-' nicverl p;^rauit(\ and the main walls, from the basement to the roof, ai'e of Quincy granite, disposed in courses, in such a maniiei- as to present a finished appearance to tlie eye. The blocks are triangular in shape, and there is probably no other such building in Massachusetts. This building was the property of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts, but has for some years been occupie \I(:imtv. Baalbec, East Boston ... 1st Tuesday. Hamniatt, Eaat Boston .... 4tli We'diiesday. 8t. Paul's, South Boston . . . 1st Tuesday. (Jate of the Teuiple, Sou'h Boston . 4th Tues lay. St. Andrew's Cha[)tcr . . . 1st Wednesday. St. Paul's Chapter .... 3d Tuesday. St. John's Chapter, East Boston . -llh jNIonday. St. Matthew's Cha])ter, South Boston . "id Monday. Council Royal and Seleet Masters . Last Thursday. Boston Encampment . . . .3d Wednesday. De jNIolay Encampment . . . . 4fch Wednesday St. Bernard Encampment . . .1st Friday. St. Omar Encampment, South Boston 1st Monday. Grand l.,od;ze, 2(1 Wi-dnesday in December, March, June, and Sej)tember; 27th December, annually. Grand Chai)ter, Tui'sday preceilinj; (i. L. Meetings. Grand Council, Tuesday preceding G. L. Meetings. Grand Encampment of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, in May and October. Convention of High Priests, 3(1 Monday in September. Ancient and Accepted Scottish Ili!e. Boston Grand Lodge of Perfection, . 3d Friday. Mount Olivet Chapter of Rose Croix, . 3d Friday. Boston Council of Princes of Jerusalem. 3d Friday. Boston Sovereign Consistory, . 3d Friday. Supreme Council of Sovereign (irand Inspectors General 33° for the Northern Jurisdiction, annually on 3d Wednes- day in May. Sovereign Grand Consistory, appendant to the Supreme Council, annually on 3d Wednesday in ^Lay. Board ot Relief, first Tuesday in each month. Tlie lueetiiigs in Boston proper are now held in Thorn- dike Hall, Siinmu'r Street. THE 8TATK IIOUSK. — HANCOCK HOUSK. WOKKS. U-iSroN AVATKK- JjOno before the stranger reaches Boston, he must have seen, from the window of the railwny-iar, or the vessel'? ileck, an imposing dome, crowning the summit of the highest of the three hills on which the city is built. On a nearer approach, he will perceive that this dome surmounts a splendid and spacious edifice ; and this, he will learn, is The State House. — To this place it would be well to pay an early visit, as from the window of the lofty cupola he will be eiiablod to take such a bird's eye or panoi'amic view of the city, as will enable hin>, by fully comprehending its various localities, and their rela- tions to each other, to render his future investigations all the easier. In any cit^- such a proceeding would prove advantageous, but especially is it so in Bi ston, where »')! BOSTON' ANI> VICINITY. strangers, in consequence of the crooked streets, experience more difficulty in ascertaining tlieir whereabouts than periuips in any other hirge phice in the Union ; and here we now ui'c. It were scarcely possible to conceive a more appropriate situation for such a building than the one occupied by the State House. It is erected about tlie centre of the city, on elevated ground, at the corner uf Beacon and Mount A'ernon streets. The corner-stone was laid on the Fourth of July, 1795, by Governor Samuel Adams, who made an address on the occasion, in which " he trusted that within its walls liberty and the rights of man would be forever advocated and supported." In 1798 the building was finished, and occupied by the Legislature. When the corner-stone of the New State House was to be laid, it was conveyed to the spot by fifteen white horses, there being, at that time, but fifteen States in the Union. Now they are more than doubled. The height of the capitol, to the sunnnit of the dome, is one hundred and ten feet; the frontage is one hundred and seventy-three feet. " It consists externally of a base- ment story twenty feet high, and a principal story thirty feet high. This, in the centre of the front, is covered with an attic sixty feet wide, and twenty feet high, which is covered with a pediment. Inmieiliately above arises the dome, fifty feet in diameter, and thirty in height; the U()5T<»N ANU VICINITY. Go whole tonniiiating with an elegant circular lantern, which supports a pine cone. The basement story is finished in a plain style on the wings, with scjuare windows. The centre is ninety-four feet in length, and formed of arches which project fourteen feet, and make a covered walk below, and support a colonnade of Corinthian columns of the same extent above. " The largest room is in the centre, and in the second story (the large space below in the basement story is directly under this) is the Representatives' Chamber, that will accommodate five hundred niembers, and soujetinies they have been more numerous. The Senate Chamber is also in the second story, at the east end of the building, and is sixty feet by fifty. At the west is a large room for the meetings of the Governor and the Executive Council, with a convenient ante-chaniber." The view from the top of the State House is very extensive and variegated ; perhaps nothing in the country is superior to it. To the east appears the bay and harbor of Boston, interspersed with beautiful islands; and in the distance beyond tlu> wide-extended ocean. To the north the eye is met by Charlestown, with its interesting and memorable heights, and the Navy Yard of the United States ; the towns of Chelsea, Maiden, and Medford, and other villages, and the natural forests mingling in the distant horizon. To the west is a fine view of the Charles 6G BOSTON AND VICINITY. river and a bay, the ancient town of Cambridge, rendered venerable for the university, now above two hundred years old ; of the flourishing villages of dmbridgeport and East Cambridge (in the latter of which is a large glass manufacturing establishment) ; of the highly-culti- vated towns of Brighton, Brookline, and Newton ; and to ilie south is lloxburv, which seems to be only a continu- ation of Bo>toii, and which is rapidly increasing ; Dur- clicster, a fine, rich, agri.-ultural town, with Milton and Quincy beyond, anl still fuither south the Blue Hills, at the distance of eight or nine miles, which seem to bound the prospect. The Common, stretching in front of the capitol, with its numerous walks and flourishing trees, where " the rich and the poor meet together," and the humblest have the proud consciousness that they are free, and, in some respects (if virtuous), on a level with the le.irne 1 and the opulent, a(hJs greatly t.t the whole scene. Large suras have recently been ex;)Oiideil in ane dimensions as the latter, with the exception of the height ; and they will be sufficient to accommodate the agricultural department, and to afford room and security for the public archives. All the designs of the plan, so far as providing accommodations is con- cerned, are fully carried out in the structure, which is completely fire-proof, and built in the most substantial and massive style. The wall of the basement story is of " rusticated dressed granite," and the others of brick. A large amount of iron is used in the structure, which gives it an air of grandeur and solidity. Visitors to the cupola are required (o inscribe their names on a register. For the enlargement of the iState House, the city is largely indebted to the activity and perseverance of the Hon. F. Brinley, then a senator from Suffolk County. One of llie first objects that attract the attention of a stranger, on entering the State House, is the statue 68 BOSTON A^fi.) VICINITY, of Washington, by Sir F. Chiintrey, which is placed in the rotunda. This statue was purchased by private sub- scription, and was placed where it now stands in 1828. Fac-similes of the Memorial Tablets of the Washing- ton Family, presented to Hon. Charles Sumner by Earl Spencer, and by Hon. Charles Sumner to the Com- monwealth, are placed upon the marble floor in front of the statue. Bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Hor- ace Mann stand in front of the State House. The Hancock House. — Until the year 1863, near the capitol, on the west, stood the mansion-house of the eminent patriot, John Hancock. On the east, at about the same distance, was situated the dwelling of the late James Bowdoin, another patriot of the Revolution, a dis- tinguished scholar and philosoj)hcr, and who, by his firnT ABLETS t^ THE WaSHiJ^ ^^ WHICH THK StATUK OF WASHINGTON „;k, Boston, Massachusetts. TVk or!" F Ol. THE FAC-SIMILES OF THE MEMORIAL TABLETS Washington Famii.v, i-kumankntly i-lackd ui'ON the maublk floou oi- the arka ,.v ,vi„c„ -rn,.- Statlk oi' STANDS, WITHIN' THE l.AIMNG IN FKONT OF SAID StATUE, IN THE StATE HOUSE, BostoN', MASSACHUSETTS. Washington W lUilil: I.IFiS INTKHIlICr) V IIOIIIKH Ol' El.l/.Ml : W.\S111.\«;T()N wiMiioHi:, WHO this i,ii k fok imoiiiai-mtik V 19 Ol MAIK H UiTi- As ALSO V llODV OK KoKKIlT Washinotox <;i;nt: ni:it r.ATi-: HVsriAxi) .sKcoxii SONXi: OI RollJUtT WASHIXOTOX ol' Sot.cltAVH IX Y COVXTV OK iVoltTH : Ksil : WHO l)i;i'Ti:i> THIS l.ll'K V lOorMAIiCIt mTi- Ar-TKItTHjy MVKI) I.OVlXd.Y TOCiP.TIKl: ■^^kik fcf iilii!i';:;i:a:>;,ij,„jji; niESR FAC-SIMILES OF THE MEMORIAL STONES OF ■nil', WASHINGTON FAMILY, IN THE PARISH CHURCH OF lUilNOTON, THE BURIAL -PLACE OF THE SPENCERS NEAK ALTHOUl', NOUrilAMPTONSHIRE, ENGLAND, WERE PRESENTED HY I'HE UIOHT HONORABLE EARL SPENCER TO CHARLES SUMNER, OF MASSACHUSETTS, AND BY HIM OFFERED TO THE COMMONWEALTH 22 FEBRUARY, 18(n. LAWRENCE WAS KATllEU, ANU KOHEUT IINCI.E, Or THE EN(;i.lSH EMIOKANT TO VIUOINIA, WHO WAS OKEAT GUANIH'ATHER OV (iEOUOK WASHINGTON. HERE-LIETH'TbE-BODlOF-LAVRENCE WASHiNGTON-SONNE-&-HEiRE-0F ROBERT-WASHiNGTON- OF-SOVLCRAE IN-TLE-COVNTiEOFNORTHAMTON ESQViER-WHO'MARlEDMARGARET TFE- ELDES T- DAVGH TER-OFWiLUAM BVTLER-OF-TEES-iN-TPE'COVNTIE OFSYSSEXE-ESQViER-WHO-HAD-iSSV BY-hER-8-SONNS-&,-9-DAVGHTERS WHiCHLAVRENCEDECESSEDTFEI3 OFDECEMBER-A:DNi:|6l6 TioV-THAT'BY'CHANCE-ORCHOYCE OF-THIS-HASr- SIGHT KNOW-LiFE-TO-DEATH-RE^iGNES as-daye-to-nIght bvt-as-thesvnns-retorne revives tfe- daye SO-CHRiST-SHALL-VS THOVGH TVRNDETODVST&CLAY OAvlHtY. ,\ii :;!:r " :ii/.M.i.i ;< I i- u'loii / (!;'i:i'i. liOSTON' AN1< VK.JMTY. GO ness iu the criwcal period of llHG, contributed most efficiently to the preservation of order and tranquillity in the Commonwealth. The Hancock IIou.sc. built A.D. 1737, and taken down in 1863, was one of the celebrities of Boston ; and no stranger who felt the patriotic impulse failed to pay it a visit. It stood ill Heacon-strect, very near the State House, fronting the south, presented a (quaint and picturesque appearance, embosomed, as it was. with shrubs, evergreens, trees, and flowers. It was built of hewn stone, and raised about thirteen feet above the street, the ascent being through a garden. There it stood, beside its modern neighbors, like a venerable grandsire surrounded by his children's cliildren, conuuanding respectful attention, and even admiration. The front was fifty-six feet in breadth, and it terminated in two lofty stories. Formerly there was a delightful garden behind the hou>e, ascending grad- ually to the hig'i lands in the rear. In the governor's time we are told that in front of the edifice " an hundred cows daily fed " on the Common. A brave place for hospitality has th;it house been in old times, when " the east wing formed a spacious hall, and the west wing was appropriated to domestic purposes; the whole embracing, with the stables, coach-hou-^es and 70 BOSTON AND VICINM'V. Other offices, an extent of two luuidred ani twenty) feet." There was also a glacis, in the days when Thomas Han- cock, the governor's uncle, resided there ; but garden, glacis, stables, and coach-houses, have made way for streets The Boston Water- \V or. ks. — A short walk on Beacon Ilill brings us to an enormous structure of massive granite masonry, which will, if the stranger knows not its uses, strike him with astonishment. It is not a jail, though it somewhat resembles one; nor is it a warehouse, nor a church. It is the great Beacon Hill Reservoir, into whit-h flows, from Cochituate Lake, formerly called Long Pond, the water which supplies the city with the pure element. The dimensions of this huL'e cistern are, on Deine-street. one hundred and ninety-nine feet and three inches ; on Temple- street, one hundred and eighty-two feet and eleven inches; on Hancock-street, one hundred and ninety-one feet seven inches ; and on the rear of Mount Vernon-street, two hundred and six feet and five inches. From the founda- tion to the sunnuit, exclusive of railing, it is on Derne- street sixtv-six feet, and on the rear of Mount Vernon- •itreet forty-ihree feet high. This building is an immense basin, or reservoir. It rests on arches of immense strength, fourteen and three fourths feet span. The basin holds 2,678,9(31 wine gal- lons of water. Two granite tablets are placed on the north side of th BOSTON AND VlCINIir. 71 Reservoir, witli the following inscriptions: BOSTON WATER-WORKS. BEGUN AUGUST, 1846. WATEK INTRODUCED OCTOBER, 1848 JOSIAH QUINCY, JR., Mayor. (NATHAN HALE, COMMISSIONERS,^ JAMES F. BALDWIN,- /THOMAS B. CURTIS. BOSTON WATER-WORKS THE RESERVOIR COMPLETED NOVEMBER, 1849. JOHN P. BIGELOW, Mayor. rW. S. WHITWELL, I ENGINEERS, ^ E. S. CHESBROUGH, ^JOHN. B. JERVIS, C W. S. WHITWELL, East Div. West Dit. CoNSCLTlNa. CHAPTER V 1 1 1 . BOSTON COMMON. OLD ELM. PROG PONDo Were we to be asked, "What is the great feature of Boston city, we should assuredly reply, Boston Common, The parks of the British metropolis have not unaptly been termed the lungs of London. "With equal appropri- ateness the Commo'i of Boston may be styled the great BOSTON AN1> VICINITY. 73 breathing apparatus of Boston. In summer or in winter those forty-eight acres of undulating ground, green with grass or white with snow, constitute a favorite place of resort. And when the noble trees that abound there are thick with foliage, no more delightful promenade than those broad avenues beneath their interlacing boughs could well be imagined. A glance at the early history of the Common may not be uninteresting. " In 1 634, commissioners were chosen to dispose of un- occupied lands. They were directed to leave out portions for new comers and the further Ijencfits of the tOAvn. Tlie Common was among the reserved portions, nnd became public property, as a training field and pasture. In 1833 a city ordinance appeared, forbidding its use as a pasturage, and it has long since ceased to be a training field." The citizens of Boston have always been proud of their beautifid Common. Several times have attempts been made to encroach upon it, but public opinion in each case defeated the object, and it is not now probable tliat a single toot of it will be misa})pro]iriated. The American elm is celebrated abroad for its beauty, and our Common has extremely beautiful groves of these graceful trees, whose hanging boughs form arches on high, which, either in summer, autumn, or winter, attract gen- eral admiration for their fairv-like tracery — Nature's own 7 74 UObTON AM) MLINITY. drapery, woven hy her most fantastic liands. Time and storm have dialt iiardly with some of them, and thev have been felled and supplanted by others, where repair was impos.-iblc. The extreme hardness of the malls has operated injuriously upon the roots of many of them, and eanker worms have oeea-sionally made too free among the branches ; but great and judicious care and exj)ense have done much to remedy tliese evils ; and the full foliage of the Common, now shading the numerous paths with the magnificent garniture of their verdure, affords ample rewai'd for years of intelligent husbandry. The richness of the soil on our Common has been one reason why the multitude of trees which decorate it have been so long preserved in vigor and beauty. In the sum- mer season the Common j)resents its most lovely aspect ; all the malls ai-e crowned with rich green canopies, and the carpet sjjreail by Nature at man's feet is of the amplest and freshest verdure. 'J'he birds and squirrels frolic un- harmed amid the broad, ancient f)oughs, and the malls, which intersect the un of l^oston. wms the site of a British fortifica- tion, bombarded by Washington. BOSTON AND VICINITY, 77 III the war of 1812 its existence was endangered by the eneampmenl around it of American troops, destined to protect tlie town. It lias often been exposed to injury by tlie custom of hanging and burning elfigics upon its giant branches ; and many lurbuh-nt occasions, on Election and Independence days, liave exposed the tree to violence. WINTER ELM. Severe tempests have at times threatened to annihilate this tree; and in 1831 or 1832 a violent storm separated four .of its large limbs, and so far detached them that they rested partially upon the ground. They were raised and bolted tngpthrr ; tho bolts are still visible, and the branches, 7* tH BOSTON AND VICINITV. at the end of t\vt,'iit\-livc years, appear to be perfectly united. In l VICIM'IV. 79 THE OLD KLM. This tree has been standing here for an unknown period. It is belii'vcd to have existed be- fore the settlement of IJoston, be- ing full grown in 1722. Exhibited marks of old age in 1792, and was nearly destroyed by a stonn in 1832. Protected by an iron fence in 1&)4. J. V. C. Smith, Mayor. Tlio following lines, dedicatotl to tlif old Elm Tree on Boston Common, by Geo. E. Kicc. originally appeared in the Satnrday Evening Gazette. TO THE GREAT ELM TREE OX BOSTON COMMON. When first from mother Earth j-ou sprung, Ere Chaucer, Spenser, Shakcsjicare sung, Or Puritans had come among The savages to loose each tongue In psalms and prayers. These forty acres, more or less, Now gayly clothed in Nature's dress, Where Yankees walk, and brag, and guess. Was but a " howling wilderness " Of wolves and bears. Say, did you start with the presenti- Ment that you'd e'er be the centre Of all that's known 80 UOSTON AM> VICINITY. About the sciences and arts ? For we are men of mighty parts, And strangers say that Boston hearts With pride are blown ; And fondly deem their little state To be '■^ pur cxcelU-nce " the great. And look with pity And sore contempt on those who say That Europe boasts a to\\Ti to-day That's not surpassed in every way By Boston City. What wondi-ous chani;cs you have seen Since you put forth yoiu' primal green And tt'iidcr shoot ; Throe hundred years your life has spanned, Yet calm, serene, erect you stand. Of great renown throughout the land. Braced up with many an iron band, And showing marks of Time's hard hand From crown to root. You, when a slender sapling, saw The persecuted reach this shore. And in their tuni Treat others as themselves were treated. To mete the measure that's been meted. And cheat if he has e'er been cheated. How does man yearn ! Of tales perchance devoid of tioith. With which they would, in early youth. My heart appall. BOSTON AMJ VICINITY. AV'as one the gossips used to tell About a witch so grim and fell, That here was hung for raising — well, It wasn't Saul. Since you beheld the light of day, A race of men has passed away — A warlike nation, Who, oft with fire water plied. Lost all their bravery and pride. And yielded to the rapid stride Of annexation. Behold, a mightier race appears. And high a vast republic rears Her giant features, And westward steadily we drive The few poor Indians who survive, And barely keep the race alive — Degenerate creatures. For arc we not the mighty lords And masters of all savage hordes, In our opinion ? And when we with inferiors deal, 'Tis well to use the iron heel, And make them wince, and writhe, and feel Their lords' dominion. You heard the first rebellious hum Of voices, and the fife and drum Of revolution, 81 ^2 ROSTOV AXI> VI( IXITY. And heard the bells and welkin ring, When they threw off great George, their king, And much improved by that same thing Their constitution. And yon still thrive and live to see The country prosperous and free. In spite of all The very sage prognostications Of prf)phets in exalted stations. Who could foresee the fate of nations, And snid she'd fall. You've seen both the tremendous spread Of ronimerce, and of those it made Rich and ;inibitious, ^^^lo fl:iimt with parvenu's true pride. And in their sliowy coaches ride, With arms emblazoned on the side, Wliich any herald who descried Would deem flagitious. Majestic tree ! Yoii've seen much worth From little Boston issue forth. And know some men Who love their kind, and give their store To help the suffering and the poor, Nor drive the beggar from their door. Heaven bless such hearts, and give them more, I pray again. And you shall see much more beside. Ere to your root, old Boston's pride, , The ;.xo i>i l:iid. UOsiON AND VICIMIV. 83 And long, 1 trust, the time will be. Ere mayor and council sit on thee. And find with unanimity That you're decayed; For you arc still quite hale and stanch, Though here and there perhaps a branch Is slightly rotten ; And you will stand and hold your sway When ho who ]>ens this rhyme to-day Shall mingle with the connnon clay. And l-o forsifotten. The Frog Pond, now called " Cochituate Lake by super-srenteel people, or. as it ha-; been called. " Quincy 84 BOSTON AND VICINITY. Lake," is situated near the Old Elm Tree, whose roots it has moistened for so many years. The original form has long been changed, and the natural pond in which the boys iished for minnows and horn-pout is now supplied from Cochituate Lake ; and in one portion a fountain sends up its sparkling waters to the height of over ninety feet. A variety of jets are connected with it at pleasure ; and nothing can be more charming than the effect produced on a summer's evening, when bands discourse sweet music, and the strains blend with the sound of falhng waters : the effect is inexpressibly beautiful. Then is the time to see Boston Common and its tiny silver lake. CHAPTER IX. PUBLIC GARDEN. PROVIDENCE DEPOT. PUBLIC LIBRARY. The Public Garden is situated at the foot of the Common, and contains about twenty acres. Like its neighbor, all walks and beauties are open to the inspec- tion and enjoyment of visitors. The new land adjacent is fast being occupied by elegant churches and dwelling- houses. Close by, on Pleasant Street, is The Providence Railroad Depot, a fine brick structure, and rather striking in its architecture. The interior arrangements are good, and unusually convenient. This road is forty-three miles in length, and, joined with the " Stonington Line," which is properly a continuation of it, connects Boston with Long Island Sound. The branch roads uniting with this are the Dedham, Stough- ton, Taunton, and Attleboro' roads. Cars leave the depot in Boston for Providence daily, stopping at Roxbury, which is two miles from the city, Jamaica Plain, three and a half miles. Canton, fourteen miles from Boston, is a beautifully- «6 BOSTON AM) VICINITY. tliversified and picturesque town, watered by the Neponset Kiver, wliicli, with the numerous ponds in its vicinity, fjives it an extensive water power. Tlic i-ailroad bridjre which crosses tin.' river at Canton is one of the finest pieces of nia-onry in the country. It is of hewn VH'IXITY. 87 Its natural scenery is exceedingly line. Maslmpoag Poml, a beautiful sheet of wjiter over a mile in length, rests upon a bed of iron ore. During the Ioav stages of the water, the ore is extracted by machines made lor the purj)ose. Fishing and plciisure parties frequent this pond in the summer season. Mansfield is twenty-ibur miles, Attleboro' thirty-uiie miles, Pawtucket thirty-nine miles, and Providence Ibrly- three and a half miles from Boston. The Public Library building of the city of Boston is situated on Boylston Street, opposite the Common, 88 BOSTON AM» VirlNlTY. au(l is constructed of brick : llie ornamental portions -fire of sandstone. The whole Imildinir is strictly fire-proof. It was designed by Mr. Charles Ivirby, and is eighty two feet in front, one hundred and twenty-eight feet deep, and two stories in height, besides the basement. The lower, or basement, story is situated below the level of the side- walk. The first story of the building contains the large hall of entrance, which opens directly into the room for dis- tribution, occupying the central part of the story. It is intended to .-cive al.-o as a conv(M>ation room. This room is connected with a large hall in the rear of the building, having a gallery and twenty alcoves, calculated to contain about forty thousand of the l)Ooks most fre- quently demanded for u-e. On the front of the building, and entered only Irom the room of delivery, are two read- ing rooms, one on the east for ladies, and one on the west, amply supplied with the periodicals of the day, for gen- eral use. The second or principal story is one hall, approached by visitors only by the staircase in the entrance hall. This hall, which by calculation will contain more than two hundred thousand volumes, has ten alcoves on each of its sides, and the same number in each of its galleries, mak- ing sixty alcoves in all. Plach alcove contains ten ranges of shelves, and each range ten shflves. The object of llOsTON ANI» VICINITY. 89 tliis decimal arrangement of shelves is to simplify all the details connected with the library. The Library was organized in 18o2. The building was commenced in l.S.>5, and was dedicated on the first day of January, I.S.'jS. It cost, together with the grounds, about $863,000. An annual appropriation of about $25,000 is made by the city for its maintenance. It pos- sesses also permanent funds presented and bequeathed for the special purpose of purchasing books, amounting at present to nearly $100,000. At the date of the last report, the Library contained upwards of 110,000 books, besides pamphlets, maps, and other articles. It has already become the second in size among the libraries of the country, and is but little be- hind the largest. The average of lendings of books ibr home use was GG3 a day the year round. It is stated that sometimes more than 2,000 persons a day visit the Library for literary purposes, besides those who go from mere cu- riosity. The building is open from nine, a.m. to ten, p.m. every day. The privileges of the institution are entirely free to all the citizens of Boston. The institution has from the first met the favor of the people ; and it has been cherished more and more as its benefits have been widely known and enjoyed. The valuable New^-England Library bequeathed in 1758 to the Old South Church, by the Rev. Thomas Prince, has lately been transferred to the Public Library. 8* CHAPTER X. WORCESTER DEPOT AM) ROAD. OLD COLONY AND FALL RIVER DEPOT AND ROAD, Leaving the Public Library, a stroll through Boylston Street, (passing the spot where the Liberty Tree once grew,) down Beach Street, brings us to The Boston and Worcester Railroad Depot. It is a very plain BOSTON AND VJCIMTV. 91 brick building, but covering a large area of ground, facing on Kneeland Street, with entrances and exits on Kneeland, Albany, and Lincoln Streets. The accommodations are spacious, and the arrangements so well made that the stranger, on his arrival, is not in danger of being pulled in pieces by olficious hackmen, for here each has his place and nmst keep it. The vicinity of this depot presents a busy scene en the arrival and departure of the New York and Albany trains, and it is well worth the walk to wit- ness it. The branch roads uniting with this road are, the Brookline, Newton Lower Falls, and Saxouville ; the Mil- ford branch, from South Framingham depot to Milfbrd ; the Millbury branch, from Gi-afton to Millbury ; and the Agricultural, from South Framingham to Marlboro'. Brighton, the first stopping place on this route, five miles from P)0>ton, is a pleasant town on the soulh side of Charles River. It is noted for its cattle market, the largest in New England. Monday is the market day, when buyei's and sellers congregate in large numbers to traffic in live stock. This town has become the residence of many persons of wealth and taste, who occupy beauti- ful country seats, with splendid gardens attached. Win- ship's Gaixlen is famed for its nursery of fine fruit trees and shrubbery, and for i(s grand display of fruits and flowers of every variety. It is free to visitors. Newton is both an as;ricultural and a manufacturing 5)2 UOSTON AM> \ 1( IMTV. town. Its borders ai-e washed by Charles River for sev- ei-al miles. There are two sets of falls on that river in this town, two miles apart, called the Upper and Lower Falls, on which are extensive j)ai)er mills, and other man- ufacturing estal)lishments. There is a Theological Semi- nary here, established in 182.'). Needham is now quite a manufacturing town, having several paper mills, a chocolate mill, a coach and car manufactoiy, and manufactories of shoes, hats, &c. It has also VICINITV. The National Monumknt to tiik Forefathers, a description of which we talie from the Boston Ahnanac of 1856, is to be erected here. The design comprises an octagonal ])cdestal, eighty-three feet high, upon whieli stands a figure of Faitli, rising to the height of seventy feet above the platform of the pedestal, so that the whole monument will rise one hundred and fifty-three feet above the earth upon which it rests. Faith is represented as standing upon a rock, holding in iier left hand an open Bible, while the other hand is uplifted toward.^ heaven. BOSTON AND ViaNlTV. 97 From the four cmaller faces of the main pedc! \I('IMTV. in lieiglit. In magnitmle tliu monument will far exceed any monumental struct ure of modern times, and will equal those stupendous works of the Egyptians whicli for forty centuries have awed the world by their grandeur. Tlie figure of Faith will be larger than any known statue excepting that of the great Kamses, now overthrown, and the Colossus of Rhodes; and the sitting figures are nearly <'cjual in size to the two statues of Ramses in the plain of Luxor. The architect of the monument is Mr. Hammatt killings, and it is to be erected at Rlymouth under the auspices of the Pilgrim Association. CHAPTER XI. BOSTON THEATRE. MKLODEON. The Boston Theatre is situated ou Washington and Mason Streets. Tlie entrance-front, on the former, is a simple three-story biiiUling, with no attempt at architec- tural display. The auditorium is nearly circular in form, about ninety feet in diameter, and in height about fifty- four feet. The proscenium-boxes on either side of the stage are huudsomely draped. Around the avtditorium above are the first and seeoiid tiers, and the gallery; in front, below the first tier, or dress-circle, is a light bal- cony containing two rows of seats. In the i)arqnet and balcony, there are iron-framed chairs, cushioned on the back, seat, and arms ; the first and sec- ond tiers ai'c furnished with oaken-l'ramed sofas, covered Avith crimson plush. The walls of the auditoiium arc of a rose-tint ; the fronts of the balcony and the second cir- cle are elaborately ornamented ; and the frescoed ceiling embraces in its design allegorical representations of the 99 IIHI HUSTON AND VK.IXITV, twelvemonths. Tha grand promenade sahon is 46 feet long, 26 feet wide, and 26 feet high, finished with orna- juented walls and ceiling, and elegantly lurnished. The corridois exUiud entirely round the auditorium. The stage side of the theatre is on Mason Street, and the doors and arches, breaking the sameness of the brick wall, comprise a passage leading to the cari)enter's shop BOaJON AM) VICINITT. 101 and steam work?, a set of double doors for the introduc- tion of horses, carriages, &,c., shouhl such ever be requiri'd for the purposes of llie stage, a [trivate door for the u.-e of the actors, anil an audience entrance at the corner of the building nearest West Street. Close to the entrance on Washington Street is the Me- lodeon, a small, comfortable hall, used for reli.Lnous pur- poses, panoramic and other exhibitions. 9 * CHAPTER XII. MERCANTILE LIBRARY ASSOCIATION. LOWELL INSTI- TUTE. OPERA-HOUSE. BRATTLE-STREET CHURCH. BOWDOIN SQUARE. The Mercantile Library Association occupies the second floor iu Mei-cantile Building, at the corner oC Hawley and Summer Streets ; the main entrance being from the latter. The rooms occupied by this Association are divided as follows, — Rcading-i'oom, Library, and Lecture-hall. The library is one of the finest in the city : it contains at present 18,000 volumes. New books are constantly added, and in quantities to suit vhe demands of the mem- bers. A fire which occurred here al)out three years ago desti'oyed many valuable volumes. In this lil)rary may be found many books Avhich cannot be seen else- where, and which are uot allowed to be taken from the library. Polite and able librarians are in constant at- tendance day and evening, and ai-e always ready to give information to visitors. The reading-room is well stocked with daily and weekly newspapers, reviews, and periodicals ; and comfortable arrangements have been made for reading. 103 104 BOSTON AND VICINITY. Besides the (acilities for gatherinif news, there are Oihcr attractions to interest visitors. Facing you, as yo\i enter, hangs a fine copy of Stuart's Washington, a gift from the IIou. Edward Everett; and around tlie walls of the reading-room and tlie hall are suspended por- traits of Webster, Hamilton, Vespucius, Columbus, and some of our much-honored citizens of Boston ; viz., Thomas II. Perkins, Peter C. Brooks, David Sears, Wil- liam Gray, Thomas C. Amory, and Robert (1. Shaw. By the terms of the constitution, any person engaged in mercantile pursuits, who is more than fourteen years of age, may become a member of the Association by the payment of two dollars annually. Persons not engaged in mercantile pursuits may become subscribers, and be entitled to all the privileges of members, except that of voting, by the payment of two dollars ; and ladies may become subscribers on the same terms. Mercantile Hall will acconimodate about seven hun- dred persons, is centrally located, easy of access, and Icjjhted from the ceiling. It is well ventilated, and fur- nished with two ante-rooms on each side of the rostrum. It is a pleasant, cheerful room, and remarkably well adapted by its construction for a lecture or concert room ; and is in much demand for these purposes. In this hall, weekly entertainments, either of declama- tion, debate, or composition, are given for the benefit of BOSTON' AX J) VICINITY. lO/i the members, and whic-h are always interesting, and lis- tened to by crowded audiences. Prominent amonjr tlie attractions and ornaments of the hall, stands the marble statue of the " Wounded Indian," by Peter Stephenson. This truly American work, aside from its excellence as a work of art, is celebrated as be- ing the first statue executed in the marble of this coun- try, and also as being the only piece of sculpture on exhibition at the World's P^air at London, that was de- signed and completed in the United States. A course of lectures is dekvered before the Association each winter, by talented speakers. This institution is the oldest of all the Mercantile- Library Associations in the country ; having been founded in March, 1820. Among the many institutions founded in this city for intellectual, moral, and social improve- ment, none are exerting a more beneficial influence, or are more firmly established in the confidence of the people. The erection of a building which shall suitably accom- modate the wants of this grooving institution has long been agitated. A building-fund has been started, the amount of which at present is $16,000. It is proposed to raise it to $50,000 ; and, should the promises of Bos- ton's generous merchants be fulfilled, double that sum will be at the disposal of the Association within a few years. 106 BOSTON ANIJ VICINITY. Thk Lowell Institute, with an entrance from Wash- ington Street, is the next object of interest. It was founded by John I^owell, Jr., Esq., for the support of regular courses of popular and scientific lectures. The sum bequeathed for this purpose amounts to about two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. By his will he provides for the main- tenance and support of public lectures on natural and i c'vealed religion, physics and chemistry, with their appH- cation to the arts, and on geology, botany, and other use- ful subjects. These lectures are all free. The season for delivering them is from October to April, during which period four or five courses (of twelve lectures each) are usually delivered. Mr. Lowell died at Bombay in March, 183G, in the tiih-ty-seventh year of his age. Opera House is situated in Province House Court. The building is very old; and when Ma-.- achusetts was a province, the colonial governors re. ided here. The king's coat of arms, that once adorni'd this building, is still treasured in the rooms of the Massachusetts Histor- ical Society, and seems to have suffered more from the tooth of time than the stanch old building it once adorned. Perhaps the smoke from Lcxinuion and Concord dimmed its bright colors, tarnished its gilding, and caused it to be laid aside forever. The walls of this old house, that once echoed with kings' decrees, eloquent speeches, and loyal toasts, now ring with songs of negro minstrels. BO.STON AM) VJCINITY. 107 Brattlk Strket Church stands in Brattle Square. The fifft house of woiship, a wooden building, was taken down in May, 1772, to make room for the [jresent one, which was built upon the same spot, and consecrated July 2.3, 1773. In the front wall, near a window, may be seen the veritable cannon ball shot from Washington's camp in Cambridge, at the time IJoston was in possession of the British. Proceeding westerly from Court Street, in whose vicini- ty, fronting on Howard Street, is the Howard Athenaeum, occupying the spot where once stood the house in which Governor Kustis died, we enter BowDOiN Square. Not long ago, it was environed by the extensive grounds, and adorned by the stately, old-iashioued mansions, of tiiose eminent merchants, the Coolidges, Pratt, Lyman, and I'arkman. They have been effaced by the march of im- provement, and are succeeded by the attractive Revere House, the commodious Coolidge Block, Bowdoin Square Church, and other less conspicuous edifices, erected for the accommodation of spirited and emulous tradesmen. The Square is no longer the centre of the refined hospi- tality and home comfort of old Boston, but has been transmuted into a centre, from which spread and radiate the tracks of numerous horse railroads. Instead of quiet, private, and stately residences, we encounter the activity of spacious iiotels, well-stocked shops, and crowded cars. 108 BOSTi^N AND VICINITY Public ucfommodatiou, here as elsewhere in llie metropo- lis, has reai()\ I'd aucieut landmarks, and substituted the useful for the ornamental. CHAPTER XIII. LOWELL DEPOT. EASTERN RAILROAD DEPOT. FITCH- BURG DEPOT, COPP'S HILL. MAINE DEPOT. The Boston and Lowell Depot, in Causeway Street, is a plain brick building, with no pretensions to architectural elegance. The length of the road proper is twenty-six miles. The branch road connecting is the Wobura Branch. The towns passed through on the road to Lowell are, — EasL Cambridge, a flourishing ])lace, with many exten- -.ive manufactories, of which the glass works are the most important. Somcrvillc, thre(^ miles distant. Medford, five miles from Boston, is at the head of navi- gation on the Mystic River, and noted for its ship building. Woburn, ten miles, has a varied and pleasing aspect, and contains ^ome beautiful farms. Horn Pond, m this 110 BOSTON AM) Vl< IMTV. 1 1 I town, is a delightful sheet of water, surrounded by ever- greens, and is so remarkable ior its rural beauties as to attract many visitors from a distance. Wilmington is fifteen miles, Billerica nineteen miles, Billerica Mills twenty-two miles, and Lowell twenty-six miles from Boston. The Eastern Railroad Depot, which is built of brick, stands on Causeway Street, at the foot of Fi'iend and Canal Streets. The length of the road to Ports- mouth is tifty-six miles, or to Portland one hundred and 112 BOSTON AND VI CI MTV. seven miles. On the way to Port, mouth the following towns are passed through : — Lynn, nine miles distant, is noted for its shoe trade. Salem, sixteen miles, was formerly engaged in the East India trade, but has declined in commercial importance, most of its shipping having been removed to Boston, although continuing to be owned in Salem. The INIuseum of the East India Marine Society is well worth a visit, for which tickets of admission can be procured gratis, on ap- plication. It is remarkable for the variety and extent of its natural and artificial curiosities, collected from every BOSTON' AND VICINITY 113 jiart of the world. The road jiasses tluoiigh a tunnel built under E-^sex and Washington Streets, and is thence earried over a bridge of considerable length to Beverly. Beverly, sixteen miles from Boston, is connected with Galem by a biidge across the North River fifteen hundred ieet in length. Wenham is twenty-two miles, Ipswich twenty-seven miles, Rowley thirty-one miles, Newburyport thirty-six miles, The celebrated George Whitetield died in this town in September, 1770. vSalisbury Beach is thirty- eight miles, Seabrook forty-two miles, Hampton forty-six miles, and Portsmouth fifty-six miles from Boston. The branch roads connecting with this road are the Saugus, Marbleliead, South Reading, Gloucester, Essex, and Ames- bury brauches. The FiTCiiBUUG Depot fronts on Causeway Street, at tlu- corner of Haverhill Street. The building, which is three hundred and sixteen feet long, ninety-six feet wide, and two stories high, is of Fitchburg granite, and one of the handsomest depots in this country. Several loads imite with this road, and the Lexington and West Cam- bridge, Watertown and Marlboro', Peterboio' and Shirley blanches ; and the Worcester and Na-liua, and Stony Brook Railroads connect at Groton Junction. Charlestown, the first place reached after crossing the % iaduct over Charles River, is built on a peninsula formed by the Charles and Mystic Rivers, and is connected with 10* Ill BOSTON AND VKJIMIV. Boston by two public bridges, by one whh Chelsea and Maiden, over the Mystic, and with Cambridge by a bridge over Charles River. Somerville is three miles, Waltham ten miles. Concord twentv miles. Groton thirty-five miles, and Fitchbnrg fifty miles from l>o-ton. Coit's Hill, not far from tlie Fitcliburg Dejiot. was formerly called Snow Hill. It came into the possession of the Ancient and Ilonyrable Artillery Company; and when, in 177;"), they were tinbidden by General Gage to parade un the Conuiion, they went to this, theii- own noS'iON AND VICIMTV. 11, J ground, ami diilkil in detiance of his threats. The ibrt, or battery, that was built there by the British, just before the buttle ol' Bunker Hill, stood near the brow of the hill, adjoiuintj the buryiiii>:-iiroui;d. The remains of many eminent men repose in this little cemetery. Close by the EMitrance is the vault of the Mather family, covered by a plain oblong structure of brick, three feet high and about six feet long, upon which is laid a heavy brown stone slab, with a tablet of slate, bearing the following inscrip- tion : — The Reverend Doctors Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather were interred in this vault. IxcuKASE died August 27, 1723, iE. 84. CoTTox " Feb. 13, 1727, " 65. S.\MrEL " Jan. 27, 178.5, " 79. Tlie whole is surrounded by a n<^at iron railing. 116 BOSTON AND VICINITY. The Boston and IMatm: Railuoad Depot fronts on Haymarkf't Square. It is a fine large brick building, two stories liigli, and is more centrally located than any other depot iu the city. This road is seventy-four miles long, and reaches to Portland. The ears pass through Charlestown, which is distant one mile, Maiden, four miles, South Reading, ten miles, Reading, twelve miles, \Vilmingtou, eighteen miles, Audover, twenty-three miles, Lawrence, twenty-six miles, North Audover, twenty- eight miles, Bradford, thirty-two miles, Haverhill, lliirty- rliree miles, Exeter, liity miles, Dover, sixty -eight mile.-, and Portland, one hnndird and eleven miles. CHAPTER XIV. MASSACHUSETTS MEDICAL COLLKGE MASSACHUSETTS GENERAL HOSPITAL. WAHREX MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. M-LEAN INSANE ASYLUM. CITY JAIL. EYE AND EAJl INFIRMARY. The Massachusetts ^Medical College is a plaiu brick buildiiiir, tiitualuil in-ar llie hospital, in North Grove Street, ami is the medical school ol' Harvard \]n'.- versity. It is capable of accommodating about two hun- dred students in the lecture-rooms. Lectures are delivered during the winter months, be- ginning on the first Wednesday in November, and contin- uing seventeen weeks. Private instruction is also given by the professors during the mouth preceding, luid for foiu" months following, the winter courses. In a lai-ge liall, in the upper part of the building, is the AVarreu Anatomical Museum. This line calinet, one of the largest in the country, and used lor illustrat- ing the lectures at the Medical College, was commenceil (iuriug the professorship of Dr. John Warren, the first professor of anatomy in ILirvard College : the chief col- li: 1 1 >; l;0'^Tt)X AM) Vl( iNirv. lectious, however, weic made by his sou aiul successor, Dr. John C. Warren, by whom it was presented, in 1847, to the college, with a lund sulficient tor its maintenance. It contains a great number of original specimens pre- pared by Dr. Warren, and by his numerf.-us friends and jissistants. It is also rich in preparations of morbid imnes. collected, for the most part, in Paris, by Dr. J. Mason Warren, in 1832, who has also added many other valuable specimens to it. In 1849, it was still further increased l)v the donation. Ijy Dr. Warren, of the greater part of the cabinet which had belonged to the Phreno- logical Society. Tiiere are now about 2,750 specimens in the museum ; and a detailed catalogue of them has been prepared for i)ul»lication by its present zealous cu- rator, Piof. J. B. S. Jackson, who has spared no lime or labor in enlarging and classifying the collection, so as to make it one of the most valuable for study in America. The iiuiseuni was o|)en to the pnl)lic tor two or three suinmers, at stated hours, and Inlly ad\ erli.-ed ; but tliere was not a sulUcient number of visitors to warrant a con- tinuance. Any respectable person, iiowever, by making application at the college, at the proper time, can get a permit (or admission. Massachusetts Gkneral Hospital. Allen Street, is a beautiful structure of white granite, with terraces in front, and walks shawled by u growth of beautiful elms. BOSTON AM) VICINITY. iiy On oue side, it coinniiuuls a view oi' the river, which, in siiinmer, gives it iit; .-itinospherc uncqiuillcil in Boston. This institution Avas first suggested by a circular letter to the public from Dr. James Jackson and Dr. John C. Warren, in 1810. Subscriptions having been collected, mainly by the efforts of these gentlemen, it was opened in 1821. Shortly before, the McLean Asylum, a branch of it situated in Somerville, began to receive patients. The pliysicians and surgeons attached to it being among the most eminent in the profession, and the trus- tees, who have alwjiys kept a strict watch over it, being gentlemen of Boston, well known, and distinguished in the various walks of life, have been the means of its attracting patients, not only from all New England, and the Western States, but also from Canada and the Brit- ish Provinces. 12*' lU)STON AM) \1C1MTV. la 1846, the fir^t operatiou ou a patieut uuder the in- fluence of ether, was performetl there by Dr. John C. AVarren, followed by the other surgeons of the hospital, — Drs. George Ilayward, S. D. Townsend, J. Mason Warren, II. J. Bigelow, mid Samuel Parkman. These experiments being supported by the influence of the visit- ing physicians, consulting board, and trustees, together with the principal medical men of Boston, gave it a solid guaranty to the confidence of the public ; and its use was shortly adopted throughout the civilized world. It is a remarkable fact, that although ether has been administered fifteen or twenty thousand times in this institution, in all kinds of surgical and medical cases, yet not a single death, and what is more remarkable, so iar as is known, no permanent injury, has resulted from its use. The surgical operaiious, since the introduction of ether, have been greatly increased ; patients who formerly pre- ferred to take the risk of dying rather than undergo a painful surgical operation, now submitting to it cheerful- ly, their terrors being relieved ; and many surgical ope- rations being permitted which would not be justified with- out it. Within the last few years even, notwithstand- ing the opening of another large hospital in this city, the surgical operations have increased fourfold, and now amount to four or five hundred in the course of a year. BOSTON AND VICINITY. 121 The hospital is opeu at all times to cases of sudden accident. During the four months of medical lectures in winter, a surgical visit is made on Saturdays, at ten o'clock ; surgical operations at eleven ; at which the med- ical students, and all physicians in good standing, are permitted to attend. During the remainder of the year, the surgical visits are made on Wednesdays and Satur- days at ten o'clock, both for physicians and students ; surgical operations at eleven. The following are the Rules of the Hospital, hath for the admission of the patients, and the visits of their friends. Applications for admission of patients must be made to the resident physician, at the hospital, on any day of the week, Sun- day excepted, between nine and ten o'clock, a.m. In urt^ent cases, however, application may be made at other times. The patient, if able, should in all cases appear at the hospital in per- son ; if unable, or living at a distance, application must be made in writing, addressed to the resident physician of the hospital, by the attending physician of the patient, accompanied by a full description of the case, and, when a free bed is desired, by a statement of the pecuniary circumstances of the patient. The price of board varies from S4.50 to 9!-25.00 per week. Five weeks' board must be advanced upon entering (any bal- ance due being refunded), or an obligation with surety for its payment must be furnished. Benjamin S. Shaw, M.D., is the resident physician. Admission of FmVons.— Relatives may be admitted to visit patients in the wards on each day of the week, Sunday except- ed, from half past eleven to half-past twelve o'clock ; but no pa- tient in any ward can receive more than one visitor a day. 11 ^ 122 BOSTON AND VICINITY. No visitor can be allowed to bring any article of food or liquor to any patient, unless specially permitted by the attending phy- sician ; and then such article must be deposited with the nurse for the use of the patient. WARREN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. 92 CHESTNCT STKEET. INCORPOKATED FEBRUARY, 1858. This building, which is fire-proof, contains many unique specimens of great value, among which is the most perfect specimen of the skeleton of the great mas- todon in existence ; discovered in 1845, near the North River, at Newburg, and purchased in 1846 by Dr. John C. "Warren. The building is composed of two large halls, a smaller one, and an entry. The lower hall contains, first, the skeleton of the mastodon ; at the side of it, and for the purpose of comparison, is that of the elephant Pizarro, one of the largest elephants ever brought to this coimtry, together with that of a horse. The room ftlso contains one or two specimens of the mastodon wliJ^h have not been articulated, and a great number of the heads and teeth of this animal at different periods of life. There is also the head of a whale, and casts of heads of vari- ous animals from the British Museum, among which are those of fossil heads of elephants from the Himalaya Mountains. Around the room is arranged a specimen BOSTON AND VICINITY. 12o of the fossil skeleton of the zeuglodon cetoides, sixty feet long, of great antiquity. There are other skeletons of the different kinds of monkeys, and part of the skeleton, with the stnffed skin, of a gorilla. In the entry are slabs containing the fossil impressions of gigantic birds, and of other large animals. The story above contains the collections belonging, for the most part, to Dr. J. Mason Warren, who is constantly adding to them. They consist of large collections of crania from all parts of the world, both human, and compara- tive ; many specimens in papier mache, from Aiizoux, of Paris ; a skeleton of the ornithorhyuchus paradoxus, with the stuffed skins of the male and female. Here is, also, the head, heart, and brain of the distinguished Spurzheim, and a cast of his face, taken immediately after death, by Dr. Winslow Lewis ; and an original pic- ture of him, by Fisher. The interesting collection of Peruvian miimmies and crania, brought by John H. Blake, Esq., from ancient Peruvian cemeteries near Arica, are deposited in this room. Some of these cra- nia, with others in the collection, are described in the valuable work of Dr. Daniel Wilson, on " Prehistoric jNIan." In the smaller room is a collection of anatomi- cal preparations, illustrative of healthy and morbid anat- omy ; also the casts of the enormous eggs of tlie gigantic 124 IJOSTON AND VICIMITY. birds from New Zealand and Now Holland, — the epyor- nis and the dinornis ; also many geological specimens of interest. Dr. .J. Mason Warren is the president, and Mr. J. Sullivan Warren is treasurer. The museum is open to visitors on Thursdays, through- out the year, from eleven, a.m., to four, p.m. Tlie New City Jail is located on Charles Street, on land reclaimed from the ocean, about one hundred feet north of Cambridge Street, between that street and the Medical College. The Jail consists of a centre octagonal building having 1 four wings radiating from the centre. The main building is seventy feet square, and eighty-five feet in height. It j is but two stories high, the lower one of which contains ' HUSTON AND VICINITY. 125 the great kitchen, scullery, bakery, and laundry. The upper story contains the great central guard and inspec- tion room. This room is seventy feet square, and con- tains the galleries and staircases connecting with the gal- leries outside of tlio cells in the three wings. The north, south, and east wings contain the cells, and are constructed upon the " Auburn plan," being a prison within a prison. The north and south wings each measure eighty feet six inches in length, fifty-live feet in width, and fifty-six feet in height. The east wing meas- ures one hundred and sixty-four feet six inches in length, fifty-five feet in width, and fifty-six feet in height above the surface of the ground. The west wing measures fifty- five feet in width, sixty-four feet in length, and of uniform height with the three other wings, four stories in height, the lower one of which contains the family kitchen and scullery of the jailer. The exterior of the structure is entirely of Quincy granite, formed with split ashlar in courses, with cornices and other projecting portions hammered or dressed ; the remaining portions of the entire building, both inside and outside, are of brick, iron, and stone, excepting the inte- rior of the west wing, which is finished with wood. The Eye and Ear Infirmary is situated on Charles Street, a short distance south of Cambridge Bridge. The building is of brick, and consists of a main building and 11 * 120 UOSTON AND VICINHV. two wings. The front of the principal building (which is sixty-seven feet in length and forty-four feet deep) is em- bellished by stone dressings to all the windows, doors, cornices in the Italian style. The wings retire from the front eleven feet, and are pei-fectly plain. In the base- ment are the kitchen, wash room, laundry, refectory wards, baths, store rooms, &c. In tlie first story in tliii main building are rooms for the matron and committee, and receiving and reading rooms ; in the wings are the male wards, with operating, apothecary, and bath rooms. In the second story are accommodations for the matron, and private female wards. The building is provided with a thorough system of ventilation, and the whole surrounded by a spacious, airy ground, shut out from the street by a high brick wall. This institution is intended exclusively for the poor, and no fees are permitted to be taken. In the rear of the Infirmary, and extending from the west end of Cambridge Street to the opposite shore in Cambridge, is Gumhridge Bridge, seeming (from a little distance) like a huge cable confining Boston to the main land. Tliis bridge was the second built over Charles River, and the first bridge over which a horse railroad left the city. To the original proprietors a toll was granted for seventy years from the opening of the bridge, which, together with the causeway, was estimated to have cost twenty-three thousand pounds lawful money. CHAPTER XV. BACK BAY. Towards the close of the last century, there extended westward of Beacon Hill and the Common a cove, or bay, which, when the tide was full, spread its breadth of waters to the opposite upland. Into tliis basin flowed the Charles River, and several smaller streams, of which the most considerable were Muddy and Stony Brooks. Owing its formation partly to these streams, and in part to the tidal flow, much of it was shoal or marsh : but its channels were navigable ; and previous to the erection of Charles-river Bridge, in 1783, vessels of light draught could pass up from the sea without obstruction. Its east- erly boundary, south of Dover Street, reached the Rox- bury Road ; farther north, its shores nearly corresponding with the present line of Pleasant Street. Grants had been earlier made by the town of lots on the Roxbury Road, which carried with them riparian rights, under the ordinance of 1641-1647, to flats extending one hundred rods from the upland, unless Avhen abridged by conver- ging lines in the cove, or by the channels : the town, as 127 128 Ji(^STON AND VICINITY. proprietor of the Common, under grant from Blackstone for a training field, liad similar rights. In tlie year 1794. an extensive conflagration destroyed the ropewalks near the westerly declivity of Fort Hill ; and six strips, fifty by eleven hundred feet each, of land then flowed by the tide, but which, recently filled iu, forms the larger part of the Public Garden, were granted by the town for others to be erected. These, in 1806, were also burnt and rebuilt ; again consumed iu 1819 ; and the proprietors, after long negotiations, in 1824 re- linquished, under an award, their rights to the city for $54,000. While these buildings renuiined, the place was a favorite resort for fishing and bathing, and similar en- joyments for the younger portion of the inhabitants. Outside the rope walks, and not far from the summer- house, or centre of the pond, was a small elevation known as Fox Hill, which, in the previous century, had been occasionally used as the site for a Avindmill. Sixty years ago, Uriah Cotting was in the full vigor of his faculties, and these were all directed to the de- velopment of the town. Improvements near Barton's Point at its western extremity, at Wheeler's Point to- Avards the south, India Wharf and Broad Street, were the fruits of his ceaseless activity. When these projects were accomplished, he turned his attention to the Back Bay. In 1813, a charter had been granted for the con- BOSTOX AND VICINITY. 129 struQtion of the Westeru Avenue from the foot of Beacon Street to Sewall's Point, in Brookline, with branches to Brighton and Roxbury. T'le causeway was to be used as a milldam, the ebb and flow of the tide furnishin"- water-power for grist and other mill purposes. This was not a novel idea in Boston, inasmuch as tide-mills for grist, colors, and chocolate, had long existed on the mill- pond, which had then recently yielded to the march of improvement in that quarter, and been filled in. Cot- ting, in 1818, issued an address recommending that the causeway should be two hundred feet in width, with house-lots on either side, as at present ; and that the full basin should be placed on the Boston side of the bay. Had this plan been adopted, a vast sheet of water, as large as Jamaica Pond, would have spread from Charles Street towards the west, and, connected with the sea by gates open at liigh tide, its purity would have been preserved. Around it would have risen palatial dwell- ings and public edifices of stately splendor : the fash- ionable quarter, with the development of wealth and numbers, would have made more rapid strides towards the opposite uplands, which, crowned with parks and pleasure-grounds, would have afforded opportunity to all classes for exercise and recreation. Tlie existing ar- rangement has its advantages : it is more convenient, and we have the Garden and greenhouse close at hand ; but, 130 BOSTON AM) VICIXITV. if this design had been carried out, neither the celebrated Inner Allstcr of Hamburg, nor the Lagoons of Venice, couhl have surpassed in beauty, cither at noonday or by moonlight, tliis spacious water-park. In 1821, on tlie second of July, the avenue was opened for passengers ; and a cavalcade of citizens passed over it in honor of the occasion. Although, when the sub- scription-lists were opened, the stock had been taken in a day, it never proved remunerative ; and the water-power proved of far less value than had been anticipated. The area of the receiving basin was about five hundred and fifty acres ; that of the full basin, a hundred and ninety- four acres, and various transfers were made from time to time by the riparian owners and the corporations. In 1838, and again in 184G, leases were made to Horace Gray and his associates, of that part of the Back Bay which belonged to the city, as proprietor of the Common, for a public garden. In 1848, the Legislature created a commission to ascertain the rights and duties of the Commonwealth in the bay. The Supreme Court having decided that the fee of the land below the riparian rights was in the State, measures were taken to turn it to ac- count. The increased sewage which accumulated in the empty basin tainting the air, and threatening the health of the neighborhood, prepared the way lor excluding the water, and filling it up. BOSTON AND VICINITV. 1;31 It admits of a grave doubt, the basin having been a part of tlie sea, and, by common law, held by the State in eminent domain for the purposes of navigation, whether the Legislature could properly appropriate it for general purposes. As a tidal reservoir, previously serving to maintain the channels of the harbor at suitable depths, when it ceased to be available for the other public objects to which it had been appiopriated, it should have revert- ed to its original use, and its proceeds, when sold, applied to preserve the harbor from deterioration. Le- gislative bodies are not apt to be scrupulous, and the whole Commonwealth was admitted to participate in what belonged to Boston Harbor. Another injustice was wrought in depriving riparians of drainage without com- pensatiou. The owners of lands on the empty basin had been benefited in this respect, by the original stipulation that the water should never be allowed to rise more than three feet above the sluice-ways, or low tide ; and had erected buildings at low grades in the expectation that this arrangement was to be permanent. But, when the sewage capacity of the basin became gradually dimin- ished by filling up, their cellars were overflowed, and their houses rendered unhealthy, and of little value. The city treasury will probably be called upon to expend large sums in i-aising this low territory to a better grade for drainage ; and it is to be hoped that the Legislature, 132 BOSTON AND VICINITY. if it does not assume its liability to re-imburse the city out of the proceeds of the lands, as it of right ought, will modify the grade-laws so that owners of houses may be compelled to contribute a reasonable proportion of the additional value which may be added to their property by the improvement, towards its cost. After the respective rights of the proprietors in the basin had been determined, preliminary steps were im- mediately taken to prepare the territory for habitation. The lines of ownership were in some instances re-adjusted ; streets were laid out ; and a system of drainage adopted. These were again from time to time modified, that the streets might better connect with those of other sections of the city ; and instead of the great sewer, at the outlet, nine feet in diameter, through Dartmouth, formerly Ded- ham Street, two of six feet were, in 1864, substituted through Uartuioutii i\iid Berkeley Streets. As the rails of the Providence and Worcester Railroads were, at some points, of a less grade than six feet above low water (too low for effective drainage for the lands belonging to the Water-power Company east thereof), it was decided to carry this sewage into the South Bay. The gravel and earth for filling up the Commonwealth lands was brought from near Cliarles River, in Necdham, by the Brookliue branch of the Worcester Railroad. The territory of the Connnonwealth westward of the BOSTON AND VICINITY. ]3;> Garden comprised an area of about one hundred acres, or four millions and a half of square feet. The pro- ceeds were appropriated to the school-fund and other educational purposes, including grants to some of the colleges of the State. In 1860, the Natural-history So- ciety and Technological Institute made an application to the Legislature for a lot of laud for tiieir buildings ; and about three acres, or a space of 240 by 548 square feet, between Berkeley and Clarendon, Newbury and Boylston Streets, was granted to them on certain condi- tions. The portion of the two streets, viz. Boylston and Newbury, abutting on this grant, now bears the name of Berkeley Square. Two spacious edifices for their accommodation have already been erected, and one of them completed. These are very ornamental to the bay, and Berkeley Square will one day be made exceedingly attractive. Near by are other institutions, one of which is for the education of young women of the Catholic Church ; the other, an asylum for aged blacks. Several Churches, the Unitarian on Arlington Street, the Imman- uel on Newbury, the Berkeley Street, and Central Con- gregational on Berkeley, are imposing structures. The First Church Avill be at the corner of Newbury and Marl- borough. Whoever has heard the musical chimes that peal from the Arlington-church steeple must appreciate how much they add to the sacred pleasures of the sab- bath, as also to our festal occasions. \2 134 BOSTON AND VICINITY. The sales already effected have agreeably disappointed the most sanguine expectations. The aggregate, with interest, made up to 18G6, is over two and a quarter millions of dollars ; the cost of filling and preparing for sale having been upwards of one million. Already about twelve luindred thousand dollars liave been paid to the education-fund, and to various colleges and institutions; and every town in Massachusetts is indebted to these lauds for aid in the education of its youth. The Com- monwealth has still midisposed of 980,032 square feet; and, remaining to be filled, 134,200 square feet, exclu- sive of streets and passage-ways. If we bear in mind that only ten years have elapsed since the tripartite indenture was signed, and the Back Bay appropriated to habitation, and but five since the first dwelling-house was erected thereon, and that, during the larger portion of that period, the country has been en- gaged in a civil war of gigantic proportions, we cannot but be struck with astonishment at what has already been accomplished. Many dwellings have been already erect- ed, and many more are in process of construction. The tax-lists show already a valuation of three millions of dollars on tiiis section between Tremont Street and tlie Ciiarles-river basin ; and the buildings are costly and elegant. The principal street of the bay, Commonwealth Ave- BOSTON AND VICINITY.* 135 • nue, two hundred and forty feet in width, including the central mall, extends fi'om the Garden in a westerly di- rection, and in time, doubtless, will reach the Heights of Brookliue. Ah-eady it has been decorated by a colossal statue of white granite of Alexander Hamilton, by the distinguished artist Rimmer, placed in the mall by our munificent fellow-citizen, Thomas Lee, Esq. ; and this magnificent thoroughfare will no doubt be further embel- lished in time by other works of art, fountains, and for- est-trees. Parallel with the avenue, towards the north, are Marlborough and Beacon, towards the south, New- bury and Boylston Streets ; while two large avenues, Co- lumbus and Huntington, extending in a south-westerly direction, form the main arteries of the Water-power territory. The names of the streets running north and south — Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, and Exeter, — follow an alphabetical progression which it is proposed to continue as the residue of the State domain is developed. Dartmouth Street, by legislative enact- ment in 1866, was made a hundred feet wide. The Board of Aldermen, in 1860, offered a pi-emium for the best plan for the Public Garden ; and several were submitted. That of G. W. Meachara was selected. The area of the garden is twenty-four acres, three of whicii arc appropriated to a lake of irregular but graceful form. Originally, the level being much below that of the sur- l;)6 BOSTON AM> VlClXnV. rounding streets, the land was filled up at an expense of seventy thousand dollars. The greenhouse was removed from its I'ormer position near Beacon Street, and the Garden enclosed with an ii'on fence. It is thickly plant- ed with flowers and sliruhs, aud abounds with fountains, in one of which stands a statue of Venus, the gift of the late John D. Bates, whose handsome mansion near by, at the Corner of Arlington Street and Commonwealth Aventie, was the first erected on tlie bay, having been commenced in 1860, and completed ready for occupancy in 18G3. Dui-ing the dull and trying times in the early period of the Rebellion, the commissioners were unable to dis- pose of the lauds of the Commonwealth advantageously, and called upon the Legislature for an issue of scrip to carry on the work of filling. Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars were appropriated ; of which the sum of two hundred and twenty thousand dollars ouly was used, and has been since returned to the treasury. The good judgment of the commissioners in disposing of the Commonwealth's lands is manifest from the fact that the price received has generally been much- higher than was anticipated. The average value of the property of the Common- wealth, as shown by the sales, has steadily advanced from $1.17 in 1858, to over $2.80 per square foot in 1865. BOSTOK AMI) VICINITI'. 137 NOTE. It is not necessary for our present purpose to present in detail the plans adopted, or their modifications. For the benefit of wlioevcr desires more exact information, refertuce is made to the following documents and deeds, as also to acts and rcsihcs of the Legislature passed in relation to the bay. 1. Charter of Bo-iOn and Roxbury Mill Corporation, June 14, 1S14. 2. Additional Act, Feb. 11, 1824. .3. Indentures between David Sears and City of Boston, 1824. 4. Charter of Boston Water-power Company, 1824. 5. Indentures between City of Boston and Boston Water-power Company, I)ei\ 2r>, 182. A 't authorizing I'.oston and Roxbury Mill Corporation to fill up loi) (eet north of the Milldain, 184:!. 11. Act authorizing Boston and Roxbury -Mill Corporation to extend a wharf at foot of Beacon Street, 1844. 12, Release of AVater Power to Boston and Worcester Railroad, 1846. 13. Re- solve of Legislature appointing Commissioners, May 10, 1848. 14. Report of City Committee on drainage, Oct. 1, 1819. 15. Report of Commission to Legislature, IS-W. 16. Report of Commissioners to Legislature, 1852. 17. Act granting Boston Water Rower Company $275,000 increase of capital, stipulating tolls shall cease on Milldam, May 1, 180."!, June, 1854. 18. In- dentuie Commouwealth and Boston and Ro.xbuiy Dam Corporation, June 9, 1854; lib. Orio,fol. 149. 19. Indenture Commonwealth and Boston Water Power Company June 9, 1854; 1 b. 005, fol. 14.5. 20. Indenture Common- wealth and Boston Water Power Conipmy, So]>t. 26, 1854 21. Indenture Commonwealth, Boston, and Boston Water PowerCompany, Dec. 11, 1856. 22. Release Commonwealth to City of Lands on Marlborough and Xevv- bury Streets, on condition (hat strip on Arlington Street be added to Pub- lic Garden. 23. Vote of city, dedicating strips on Arlington Streets to Public Garden, It^Ou. 24. Report of City Commission on street sewage and grade, Aug. 24, 1803; doc. 81. 25. Indenture of Commonwealth, City of Boston, and Boston AVater-power Company, modifying indenture. 26. Indenture between the Commissioners on Public Lands and the heirs of David Sears, for the purpose of adjusting the line of ownership between these parties. Dec. 1, 1865. 12* CHAPTER XVI. CHAELES-RIVEK BASIN AND SOUTH BAY. Between the Westeru Avenue aud tlie railroad bridges whicli cross from Causeway Street is tlie Charles- river Basiu, crossed by the West-Boston Bridge to Cam- bridgeport, and Craigic's Bridge to East Cambridge. On the other side of the Back Bay, between the city proper aud South Boston, lies the .Soutli Bay. This formerly comprised three hundred and sixty acres, but has been reduced, by the extension of wharves aud solid filling, to less than one-half that area. Vessels of light draught can reach its upper end in Roxbury, the channel having been recently deepened, [n 1848, a contract was made for filling up twenty acres of flats belonging to the city, to cost about ibur hundred thousand dollars. This con- tract was modified in 1856, so that the cost, when com- pleted in 1862, amounted to thrice that sum. It has been in part sold lor dwellings ; and on its area have been erected the City Hospital, and a large aud commodious stable for the Health Department, where eighty horses are kept for street purposes. 138 BOSTON AXD VICINITV. 139 For many years, a waut had beea lelt lor auother gen- eral hospital ; when, upon the recommendalioii of more than one hundred of tlie faculty, the city council author- ized its construction. From the public domain on the South Bay, a site on Harrison Avenue, between Concord and Springfield Streets, was selected, since extended to the water, and comprising about eight acres, or 361,000 square feet. The work was commenced in the fall of 1861, and the buildings were open for the reception of j)atients in June, 1864. These consist of a central edi- fice for the administration, pay-patients, and surgical operations ; two pa\ ilious connected therewith by corri- dors, each containing three long wards, besides other apartments ; another pavilion for separate treatment ; and a long, low structure for a laundry, and steam apparatus for warming and ventilating. On the water side of Albany Street are other buildings for ditferent pur- poses. Both surgical and medical cases are treated ; chronic, incurable, and contagious cases not coming, however, Avithin the rules. The number which can be accommo- dated is about two hundred ; but there is space for other pavilions. Dr. Derby is the admitting physician ; L. A. Cutler, Esq., the superintendent. The control is vested ill a board of eiglit trustees, five of whom are members of the city council, and three citizens at large. 140 K(.)ST»>X AXI» VICINITV. Opposite tlie City Hospital is the Catliolic Church uf THE Immaculate Conception, one of the luiud^onicst churches in the city. Adjoining to it is the Boston Col- lege. On Washington Street, not far to the north, is to be erected the cathedral. CHAPTER XVII. THE MUSEUM OF THE BOSTON SOCIETY OF NATURAL HIS- TORY. — TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The Museum is situated upon Berkeley Street ; it is a handsome structure of brick and freestone, having a front of a hundred and five feet, and eighty feet high. It is built in the chissic style of architecture, with Co- rinthian pilasters and capitals: the foundation is of heavy hammered granite, the first story, of freestone, and the second and third of brick ; the trimmings and external ornamental work are of freestone. Over the main entrance is carved the seal of the society, with the head of Cuvier ; and. on the keys of the windows are cut the heads of various wild animals. The pediment is surmounted by a carved wooden eagle. From the spacious vestibule open the library, lecture- hall, and other rooms. Around the sides of the vestibule are exhibited the fossil footprints of animals from the quar- ries of the Connecticut River. On the left of the vestibule is the secretary's office, and a similar room in the rear ; in the rear of the vestibule is the lecture-room ; on the 141 142 BOSTON AND VICINITY. right are the ethnological and botanical rooms, in the former of which arc displayed the household utensils, gar- ments, and weapons of different ancient and modern races of men. Between these two apartments is a small loom containing the microscopical collection of the late Pro- fessor Bailey. The main hall is on the second floor, and extends thence to the roof, being liglited principally from al)Ove. It is forty by ninety feet, and sixty feet in height, and is encircled by balconies connecting witli the floors or balconies of the adjoining rooms. Opening from the hall floor are two rooms on either side, each thirty feet square. The eastern end of the hall, and the south room at that end, are devoted to the departments of geology and paleontology ; the corresponding room on the north side contains the minerals. The entire western end, with the adjoining rooms, is set apart for the bones and skele- tons of different animals, and contains the finest series of mounted skeletons in tlie country ; especially those of the cat tribe, viz., the lion, leopard, lynx, &;c. In one of the cases may be seen, side by side, the skeletons of a European, a Hottentot, and a gorilla, and, at tlieir light, orang-outangs, and the monkey-tribe. In other cases in this department will be found well-mounted skeletons of the wolf, hyena, jackal, bear, &c. ; squirrels of different sorts ; also different breeds of dogs, and the three-toed and two-toed, or American and African ostriches. Two BOSTON AND VICINITY. 143 larire cu.ses ure tilled with the skulls of difFereut races of mtti. At the west end of the main hall, the skeleton of an elephant is seen, accompanied on either side by a moose and a horse ; at the other extremity, in the geo- logical department, is placed a cast of the huge megathe- rium, one of the largest of the extinct fossil animals belonging to the sloth tribe : it is represented in the act of feeding from the upper branches of a large oak-tree. The cases of the first gallery suri'ounding the main hall are devoted to birds and shells. The cases of the second galleries are devoted to the insects of New P^^ngland, and to reptiles and fishes, corals and other radiata, crabs, lobsters, &c. These collections have been brought together by the energy and enthusiasm of the members of the society, and its many friends throughout the State, from whom it is receiving, and still hopes to receive, valuable accessions. The library belonging to the society is composed of works on natural history, and contains about eight thousand volumes and pamphlets, many of them exquis- itely illustrated works of great value. The society hold semi-monthly meetings, have published sixteen octavo volumes of Transactions, and number over four hundred resident members. They own the building which they occupy, which was completed in 1864, at the expense of about a hundred thousand dollars, obtained by subscrip- 144 BOSTON' AND VICINITY. tion from tlie liberal citizens of Boston and vicinity, and by tbe nuiniticent donations or bequests of distinguished patrons of science. Tlie ground occupied by the society, in connection with the Massachusetts Institute of Tech- nology, was ceded to them by a grant of the State of Massachusetts. The Museum is open to the public every "Wednesday and Saturday, from ten, a.m., to tive, p.m. The Institutk was chartered in 1861. Its principal object is the application of science to the useful arts ; trainiug young men in the dilfereut branches of construc- tion, engineering, chemistry, and metallurgy, and, by its classical lectures and discussions, raising tiie standard of all mechanical and industrial pursuits. It has already organized classes, attended by nearly one hundred pupils. As it is richly endowed, it will soon possess all the mod- els, apparatus, and cabinets needed to illustrate the in- struction it affords; and these must always prove an interesting study to strangers in Boston. Its president is AVilliam B. Rogers, to Avhose zeal in the work of pop- ular education and practical science we are indebted for its ibundation. I CHAPTER XVIII. EDUCATION. NEWSPAPERS. Of the thirty-live tlioiisanil children iu the city between the ages of five and .sixteen, one-tenth are supposed to attend private schools, and one-tenth not to attend any. Of the twenty-eight thousand left, there are thirteen thon- sai)d in the primary, and thirteen thousand in the gram- mar schools; the sexes being nearly equally divided, about oue-tifieentii in excess of half the whole number be- ing females. These are instructed, in classes of about sixty, by one hundred male and four hundred female teachers, in al)out five hundred rooms. The school edi- fices are conveniently distributed about the city ; there be- ing ten school buildings for girls and as many for boys in the grammar-schools, and thirty more for the primary. Besides these, there are an English High School and a Latin School, on Bedford Street, for preparing boys for college or business ; and a High and Normal School for gu-ls, in Mason Street, with a training-school attached in Somerset Street, where i)upils of distinguished scholarship in the grammar-schools are prepai-ed to become teachers. 13 145 140 r.'i-r<>\ AM> \it iMjv. The general cliariix' "of llie public iustruclioii ut' the city is in tlio scliool-cominittt'e of seventy-two, six from each ward, elected for three years, with alternate vacau- (ios, who meet quarterly, or ofteuer, in the Common-coun- cil f'hanibor. and. by their several sub-committees, super- \ i.-c I lie schools. The superintiMidrnt of public schools, Mr. J. D. riiilbrick, 1im> his ollice in the City Hull, and has the general control under the committees. Besides these schools, there are several boarding or day schools for Catholic children whose parents prefer they should be educated apart fiom the Protestants. The principal Catholic Seminary is St. Mary's, on Endicott Street. At the St. Vincent de Paul, there are three Inm- dred children ; in Father llaskins's, four hundred ; and about tw(j thousand more in diflerent schools. There are, moreover, various asylums for orphans and indigent chil- dren, having sclujcds of their own ; others where children attend public schools in the neighborhood. The Farm School, on Thompson's Island, is of the fornuT class; but this and similar institutions will be more jjarticularly described under the head of Charities. On Harrison Avenue is a Jesuit Catholic Seminary, called the Boston College; and, on Berkeley Street, u school for adult imnde Catholics. The Technological Institute is organizing various classes for instruction in the uscfid arts. The School of r r.oslON AMI NUIMTY. 147 Design teaches tlie nu'chauicul applicatiou of the fine arts. Tiie Medical College, in Grove Street, has an at- tendance ut' lour liuiulriMl pupils on its lectures ; and the Female Medical College, in Rutland Street, has numer- ous pupils. Tiicre are schools for poor adults in the AVar- ren-strect Ciuipcl. NEWSPAriiUS. — It is well known that Boston has the honor of" the first newspaper on the continent : it was called the Newsletter ; it was a small halt-sheet, first puldished April 6, 1701. I)e<'. 21, 1711), James Frank- lin, the hrother of tlie renowned philosopher and states- man, issued the Boston (iazetle. On the 17th of August, 1721, the Courant followed; and March 20, 1727, tlie New-England Weekly Journal, which was united with the Gazette in 1741. In 1730, the Evening Post was first is- sued, and continued down to 177."). The Boston Weekly Post-boy, issued in 1734, was continued twenty-one years. The Independent Atlvertiser, to which Samuel Adams contributed, existed but two years, to wit, 1748 and 1741). In 177.>, the Boston (j^azette and Country Joiuiial was issued, and sustained till 17D8. In 17G7. the Boston Chronicle appeared, the first paper published in New England as often as twice a week. The C'olunil>ian Cen- tinel was started in 1790, and was ably supported by the best writers uf the day ; Iligginson, Lowell, Sullivan, Adams, Jarvis, Austin, Ames, and many more, being at that period constant contributors to the journal.-. 148 HOSKfN AND \'J(;iXITV. Early in the present century, the Ceutinel, Chronicle, Repertory, and Democrat were the principal papers. Later, the Daily Advertiser, edited by Nathan Hale, uniting with the Chronicle, became one of our most re- spectable prints. In 1830, the Boston Post and Atlas, both daily papers, were the most active organs of the opposing parties, the Democrats and Whigs. It is not our purpose to enumerate all the papers which have at different periods enjoyed a brief hold on popular regard, but to direct attention to such as are now issued in this city. The Advertiser, Journal, Traveller, and Transcript are in their politics decidedly Republican ; the Herald somewhat neutral ; the Post and Evening Commercial ad- vocate strict adherence to the Constitution. Besides these papers, issued daily, are the Saturday-Evening Gazette, Express, Sunday Herald, Commonwealth, Voice, Volun- teer, Bulletin, Journal of Music, Pilot, and others, ap- pearing once a week. Besides these, the North-Ameri- can Review, New-England Historical and Genealogical Magazine, Atlantic Monthly, Young Folks, and other periodicals, appear quarterly or monthly. Files of News papers are to be found in the libraries of the Athenteum, State, Massachusetts Historical, and New-England His- toric-Genealogical Societies. CHAPTER XIX. YOUNG men's christian ASSOCIATION. — AMERICAN CON- gregational association. the general theolo- gical library. The Boston Young Men's Christian Association occupies the whole front of Trcmont Temple, up one flight, and is always free to young men and strangers, from nine, a.m., to ten, p.m. It is divided into five apartments. In the centi-e is a large, spacious room, used as the read- ing-room, where may be found all the principal daily and weekly papers, secular and religious, and all the periodi- cals and magazines of the day. On the left is a room devoted to the library of the Association, which numbers upwards of three thousand five hundred good standard works of history, biography, poetry, &c. On the right of the reading-room is the committee- room, occupied by the Bible-class every Saturday even- ing, and daily used as a conversational room. Opening from this is the cabinet-room of curiosities. This Association liad its origin in a meeting of a i'ew Christian young men, held Dec. 21, 1851, to consider what should be done in this great city to shield the young 13* 1-19 150 BOSTON AND VICINITY. men and youth coming from the tender watch and care of a loving mother, and the heaUhful influences of the home fireside, into temptation and danger. It was final- ly voted to form an association, which shoidd have for its object the mental, moral, and spiritual well-being of the young men and youth of our city. Providence smiled upon the effort ; the churches seconded it ; the young men and strangers welcomed it. Since its forma- tion over six thousand five hundred young men have been members of the Association ; and six thousand five hun- dred more, we believe, have been equal recipients of its benefits. Thousands upon thousands have been blessed through its instrumentality. For nine years, there has been a daily evening prayer- meeting, from nine to ten o'clock, in the reading-room, open to all ; and for eight years a daily prayer-meeting on board the United-States receiving-ship " Ohio," sta- tioned in our harbor, conducted by the members. There is a committee of attendance on the sick in the association ; a committee on employment, who assist young men in procuring good situations ; a committee on boai'ding-houses, who provide good boarding-places for young men and strangers, by applying at the rooms ; and a committee on Bible and tract distribution, who fur- iiisli Bibles and tracts gratuitously to those who need. This institution bore a noble part in the work of the BOSTON AND VICINITY. 151 United-States Christian Commission. Its members were first and foremost in the formation of that Commission ; and, through its army committee, this Association collect- ed from the people of Boston, and other cities and vil- lajrcs of New England, the noble sum of nearly $350,000 for the Commission ; also, 5,498 boxes and packages of hospital-supplies, which were properly forwarded and distributed. Eternity alone will reveal the results of these labors. Make your sons and brothers members of this Association when they first come to the city. Mr. Rowland, the librarian, will make welcome any who may visit the rooms, at Xo. 5, Tremont Temple. The American Congregational Association has rooms in its own building, No. 23, Chauncy Street. It was formed in May, 1852, and has for its chief objects, first, the gathering, and carefully arranging and preserv- ing books, pamphlets, manuscripts, and other mementoes of the founders of New Englnnd, Avhich illustrate their principles and the church-polity which tliey established ; and, secondly, to adjust these in a place which shall be- come a congregational home, having a structure so fitted, that, while its library treasures shall be perfectly available to all who may desire the privilege, it shall, at the same time, have the conveniences and attractions of a congregational home, where the ministers and mem- bership of the Congregational churches throughout the 152 BOSTON AND VICINITY. country may meet, and catdi the inspiration of the Pil- grim and Puritan fathers, who, though dead, will there speak. It is the intention of the Association, as soon as their funds will admit, to erect a suitable fire-proof building for the purposes above mentioned, which shall be an ornament to the city. The library thus far collected contains 5,689 bound volumes, including duplicates ; and 37,895 pamphlets, assorted and arranged by Rev. Isaac P. Latjgworthy, corresponding secretary and librarian : it is open to all for daily consultation. The visitor in Boston will find much of curious interest to the scholar and historian on the shelves of this Association. There is a larger collec- tion of treatises upon the Congregational church-polity found here, probably, than exists in any other public library in the country. The General Theological Librauy. — This insti- tution was founded in the city of Boston on the 20th of April, 1860 ; opened to the public in 1862 ; and incorpo- rated in 1864. Its object is " to benefit all religious de- nominations, and to promote the interests of religion, and the increase of theological learning, by a public the- ological library." There is nothing sectarian in its char- acter, principles, or operations. The library now contains nearly five thousand volumes, and about eighty periodicals are regularly placed upon liOSTOX \yi> VICINITY. 153 the tables of the readiug-room. All but puix-ly reference- books may be taken fiom the library. Per.sous re.sidiujr witliiu ten miles of Boston can take ont two books at a time, and retain them a fortnight ; if living beyond ten miles, they can retain them for a month. In the case of new books, a single volume is taken at a time, and is re- tained only half as long as one that is not new. The volumes are principally used by clergymen, sab- bath-school teachers, authors, editors, theological stu- dents, and members of congregations in New England, of every denomination, and of both sexes. The library and reading-room are situated at No, 41 Tremont Street, nearly opposite King's Chapel, in Bos- ton ; and all persons are welcome as visitors every day between the hours of eight, a.m., and six, p.m. This is already one of the interesting institutions of Boston, particularly to persons connected with the various religious denominations. CHAPTER XX. MOUNT-VERNON CHURCH. MISSIONARY HOUSE. — MASSA- CHUSETTS SABBATH-SCHOOL SOCIETY. NEW-ENGLANP METHODIST DEPOSITORY. — AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY. AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY, NEW-ENGLAND BRANCH. MASSACHUSETTS BIBLE SOCIETY. The Mount-Vernon Clnirch, in Ashburtoii Place, was erected in 1843. The dinu'tisious of the building are seventy-five feet by ninety-.-^evcn, containing a hundi-L-d and thirty-two pews on the lower floor, and fifty in the gallery, in which twelve hundred and seventy persons may be comfortably seated. Tiie basement story con- tains, besides the several committee-rooms, a commodi- ous chapel, sixty-eight feet long by forty-eight feet wide, and fifteen feet high, which accommodates six hundred persons with seats. The Rev. Edward N. Kirk, D.D., has been the pastor of this religious society since its organization, June 1, 1842. On account of tlie quit-t situation and eligible accom- modations of this church, it was selected as the place for the meetings of the National Congregational Coimcil, 154 I UOSTON AND VI(;:iXTTV, 155 which assemble! J„ne 14, 1865, and con.iaucd its ses- sion ten .lays. The assembly was composed of five hun- dred and nineteen clerical and lay delegates, representing the Congregational Churches of the nation, more than three thousand in nu».iber, scattered from the Atlantic to ihe Pacilic coasts. lis convocation is regarded as one 156 BOSTON AM) \IC1M1V. of the most importaut epochs in tlie history of Congre- gationalisai which has occurred since the landiug of the Pilgrim Fathers ou Plymouth Rock, which the couvoca- tioa visited duriug their session. The Missionary House, No. 33 Pembertou Square, is ail object of interest to many who visit the city of Boston. It was completed early in 1S39, aiul has since BOSTON ANI> VICINITY. 157 been occupied by tbe officers of the American Board of Commissiouer.s for Foreign Missions. It cost about twenty-three thousand dcjHars, and is admirably located for the uses which it subserves. In the third story will be found a cabinet of curiosities collected and sent home by missionaries. The society which erected this building was organized in 1810; and as it is the oldest, so it is the largest of the institutions of its class in the United States. It has missions in China, India, Western Asia, Greece, South Africa, West Africa, the Pacific Ocean, and among the North-American Indians ; and its expenditures, some years, have exceeded five hundred thousand dollars. The men sustained by it have reduced some twenty-five lan- guages to writing ; published books at presses owned by the Board in nearly fifty different tongues ; made the Bible accessible by their translations to many millions of our race ; established schools wherever they have gone, some of the highest grade as well as the lowest ; formed Christian churches, which liave become centres of light and truth in some of tlie darkest portions of the earth. Its aims and operations are therefore manifold. It Chris- tianizes and civilizes at the same time. Hence the ne- cessity of that generous patronage which it receives. Passing east from Pemberton Square, across Court Street, diagonally, you come to Cornhill, so named from 14 158 I'.(»8T0N AND VICINITY. the old hook-marl in London, and a street equal!)' famous iu the New Worhl for tlie number and variety of its bookselliug, publishing, and printing eslablislimeut.s. In this short street, connecting Court and Washington Streets, and its imme VICIMTV. 16o Massachusetts Bible Society, No. 15 Cornhill. — This society was incorporated Feb. 15, 1810. During the year 1865, the number of volumes issued from its depository was 40,777; of which 12,691 were Bibles; 15,436, Testaments ; 6,041, Testaments with the Psalms ; and the remainder were smaller portions of the Scrip- tures. The gratuitous circulation amounted to 10,526 volumes, costing $3,811.50. The income of the society, including a balance on hand at the beginning of the year 1865 of $2,253.48, and $5,000 from invested funds, has been $36,769.13. The American Education Society, No. 15 Corn- hill, lias for its object the education of pious young men for the gospel ministry. It was organized Dec. 7, 1815, and incorporated in 1816. "The Avork of the society rests back upon that grand apostolic principle, ' How shall they hear without a preacher? and how shall they preach except they be sent? ' " Rev. Increase N. Tarbox is secretary of the society. Nearly all of the societies mentioned in this chapter hold their annual meetings in May. The anniversary or public meetings of the most of them being held in Ti-emont Temple, which on these occasions is generally filled with attentive and delighted audiences. There arc other societies which deserve notice ; as The Boston Seaman's Friend Society, Alpheus Hardy, 164 BOSTON AND VICINITY. president, Thomas D. Quincy, treasurer, No. 40 Com- mercial Street. The society, in the year 1865, furnished a hundred and forty libraries to ships' companies. Among those interested in the "welfare of sailors, as their untiring friend, Capt. Bartlett will be long remembered. At the Mariners' Church, corner of Summer and Fed- eral Streets, the regular ministrations of the gospel are attended on the Sabbath. In connection with this ser- vice, there is a Bible class for seamen, conducted by the chaplain, Rev. J. M. H. Dow. There is also a Sabbath school, numbering about a hundred scholars. At the Sailors' Home, Xo. 99 Purchase Street, there were received as boarders, between May, 1865, and May, 1866, over seventeen hundred seamen, seventy-four of whom had been shipwrecked, and were destitute. The Boston Port Society, Rev. E. T. Taylor, chaplain, Charles H. Parker, treasurer, is at No. SOTremont Street. The Baptist Bethel, corner of Hanover and North Ben- nett Streets. Rev. Phinehas Stowe, cliaplain, began in 1840, with fourteen members. It now numbers 354, and is in a highly flourishing condition. The Mariners' Exchange, incorporated in 1864, is on the corner of Lewis and Commercial Streets : Rev. Phin- ehas Stowe is president, and Rev. E. M. Buyin, chap- lain. It is doing an important service for seamen. UOSTOX AXn AHINln. ](;,") Tlse Boston Episcopal Mission ior Seanxni. Rev. John T. Burrill, rector, has been instrumental to a \ery giati- fyincr extent in nieetinjj: the sailors' spiritual necessities, and in piovidin,':' tor their temporal wants. Services are held at the chapel ev-eiy Simday, both in the morning and evening : theie is also a weekly prayer-meeting. P^ree Chiu'ch of St. iMary's, Rev. J. P. Robinson, rec- tor. Sunday service : morning prayer and service at quarter-past ten, a.m. ; evening prayer and sermon at hali-past seven, p.m. ; and an evening prayer and lecture on Fridav evening. Sunday school : two sessions, begin- ning at nine, a.m., and half-past two, p.m. The Sunday school coutituies to enjoy its wonted prosperity, under ex- cellent and otricient teachers. Shipwrecked and destitute seamen have ever found sympathy and aid in St. Mary's. The ladies of the Sail- oi's' Aid Socieiy have by their efforts enabled the rector to assist many persons and families. The American Unitarian Association was organized in 1824, and incorporated in 1847. The rooms of the as- sociation and depository are at No. 26 Chauncy Street. The Hon. John G. Palfrey is president. CHAPTER XXI. HORTICULTURAL BUILDING. — GREAT ORGAN. This elegant edifice, the Homestead of the Massachu- setts Hoi-ticnhiiral Society, is h)cated on Tremout Street, between Brouiiiehl Street and Montgomery Phice, nearly opposite the Tremout Honsc. It is built of Concord 166 BOSTON AND VJCIXITV. 1G7 grauite, with a front of fifty-five feet on Tremont Street, extending on Bromfield Street ninety feet : it is tlivee stories high, and is an ornament to that part of the city. Its style is tlie Renaissance, a pecnliar style of decoration revived by Raphael in the pontificate of Leo X., re- sulting from, but freer than, the antique : popular in Eu- rope, and becoming so in this country. The front VKIMTV. . 1^9 tains over fifty illustriitioiis, with 128 pages of descriptive matter, with lists of prices of both seeds and plants, and will be sent to any part of the United States or Canada on the receipt of only twenty-five cents. The Great Organ in the Music Hall, Winter Street, may truly be oalU-d one of the cliief attractions of Boston. It was inaugurated on Monday evening. Nov. 2, 1863, and cost above fifty thousand dollars. " In gazing upon the grand case of the instrument, or the organ-house (orgd-r/chause^^ as the Germans call it, the first impression is that of perfect symmetry and har- mony, both in its component parts and its relations to the hall. The structure may be generally divided into tAvo grand parts ; the upper portion containing the pipes, and the lower portion, or base, supporting the many columns. The facade, Avhich is about fifty feet wide, sliows four grand towers, two of which are circular, and stand bold- ly out from the centre, coming forward eighteen feet upon the stage, the wings falling towards two smaller and square towers." In height, from platform to the summit of the tower, it measures sixty feet. '' The breath of this mighty instrument is furnished by twelve pairs of bellows, which are operated by water- power." The organ is played by a competent performer, Wednes- days and Saturdays, from twelve, M., to one, p.m. 15 '-'/■■•£SofiV& V'liiii/rr .'; ' CHAPTER XXII. new-england historic-genealogical society. sons of temperance. — washingtonian home. — home vor little wanderers. The New-England Historic-Genealogical Soci- ety. — This society was incorporated March 18, 1845. At the close of the first year, it Avas composed of thirty- seven members, most of whom were among our first cit- izens. It has increased gradually, and now consists of four hundred. The late Charles Ewer, Esq., one of the five originators, was the first president. They hold their meetings in a fine, spacious room, at No. 13 Bromfield Sti-eet, which is generally open from nine, a.m., till the evening. The society principally depends on a regular annual assessment for defraying its incidental expenses ; and on donations for its books, documents, &c. It has met with a most liberal encouragement ; and although it commenced with a few rare and antique works and neglected pam- phlets, yet at the monthly meeting, Oct. 3, 1866, the 171 172 noSToX ANJ) VKINITV. librarian reported 0,786 bound volumes, and 2o,'^42 pamphlets of various kinds belonging to the library. Among these are twenty bound volumes of the Direct Tax, 1798, for Massachusetts, precious for the certaiutv of facts concerning our citizens and their estates at that time; also 170 volumes of family genealogy ; and 159 town histories, which are next in value as it regards an- cestry, Rymer's Focdera, in nineteen folio volumes, and a fine selection of works on heraldry, might be named ; also a curious old manuscript volume in parchment, beau- tifully executed, of chants, the musical notes in square, or angular forms, — a choral work iVom a Florence monas- tery. There are a few a it ides for the nucleus of a mu- seum, such as a piece of a statue from the Greek temple of Bacchus, in Candia, overthrown by an earthquake six hundred years before Christ, ])resented to the society by G. Mouutfort, Esq., United-States Consul ; also a frag- ment of the timber of an ancient ship, discovered on the eastern shore of Cape Cod, supposed to have been buried in the sands for more than two centuries, of which au account may be seen in the New-England Historic and Genealogical Register. Membership is obtained upon a written nomination of the candidate by some member of the society ; and after an election the acceptance must be in writing, wherein some notice of his descent is requested, when conve- UO^^iOX AM) VICIMTV. ] 7^ nient. Ou the deatli of a member, his character is no- ticed by the historiographer at the monthly meeting, and a more or less extended account of liis life is given. From this department, which has been conducted with much research and ability, they are supplied with many valua- ble pieces of biography dear to friends, and nowhere else to be found out of the archives. The publication of the New-Euglaud Historic and Genealogical Register, under the auspices of this societv, is in itself a lasting monument of their success and use- fulness. It is a vast reservoir of historical and genea- logical facts touching New England, and this year will complete twenty volumes. Sons of Tempehance. — Few strangers visit Boston who are not members of some of the affiliated societies of the present day. From the masonic institution, or rather in consequence of it, numerous other societies, based on principles similar to theirs, but having some specific object to which their attention was more partic- ularly given, have been organized. Two among these, the Odd Fellows, with their system of weekly benefits to sick members, and the Sons of Temperance, making the total-abstinence pledge their prominent feature, have become tlie most numerous ; and few cities or large towns in the United States are without a Division of Sous of Temperance. Ladies are admitted to their meetings, but 15* 174 BOSTON AND VICINITV. are not couuted as members. lu this city, they are quite numerous, luiviug in their conuection about two tliousand members, ami a hirgcr number of ladies ; while there are more than ten thousand members in the State of Massachusetts. Active exertions are being made by them at the pres- ent time to build for their use a hall worthy of the gi-eat cause they are banded together to j)ei'petuate ; and we hope before many years to present to our leaders au en- graving of a building devoted to their uses, which will be an ornament to our city. The names of tho.-^e earnest in this matter, and active in promoting flie interests of this order, are a guaranty that wliat is done will be well done. Their principal officers for the preseut yeai- are, Isaac W. May, G. W. P. ; Samuel W. Hodges, G. Scribe; The AVashingtonian Home, which is represented on the following page, is located at No. 887 Washington Street, near the corner of Dover Street. It was origi- nally organized Nov. 5, 1857, and incorporated March liG, 18o9. It is an asylum for inebriates, and for those unfortunates who require some extraneous assistance to enable them to break the ties with whic-h the appetite for stimulants has bound them; and is conducted on a prin- ciple peculiar to itseli. It was oi-iginally started by a few philaulhropic and con-iderate men. w liu thought this class, so susceptible BOSTON AND VICINITY, 175 to temptation, needed proper seclusion until the immedi- ate effects of stimulants could be removed, and after- wards sncli care and influences as Avould appeal to the higher and nobler motives of their nature to complete the work of reformation. It commenced in a most hum- ble way, with very small resources and limited accom- modations ; but such was the success attendinjj it fVom its commencement, that it has been obliged to change its 176 BOSTON AND VICINITY. location for more extensive accommodations three times rt'itliin the first six years of its existence ; and aheady finds its present bnilding insufficient to accommodate the increasing number of its patients, of which it has ahx-ady had very many, principally from Boston and otiier parts of the State, but includiug a hirge number from almost all the other States, and the Britisii Provinces. A very large proportion of its graduates are now regarded as thoroughly leformed men. Patients arc expected to pay in proportion to their ability, and the accommodations enjoyed. An armnal sum is appr()i)ri;ited by the Legislature, which is em- ployed in the support of a certain number of free patients, who, however, must be residents of Massachusetts. Confinement is not resorted to, except in extreme cases ; and it is the aim of the conductors of the institution to render a residence within it agreeable, by surrounding the patient, as far as possible, with the comforts and en- joyments of a home. The gentlemen who have so far conducted the institution have every reason to believe, from the success attending it, that the methon. in the neighborhood where they ai'e BOSTON AND VICINITY. 179 located, agents are appointed to look after them, and see that they are cared for, and make changes when they become necessary. 2d, A large class of poor but worthy mothei-s are made beggars by their little children. They cannot take them when they go to seek or do Avork ; nor leave them at home, because they have no one to care for them. To benefit this class, the institution has opened a large nurs- ery, where the mother may leave hor little ones during the day, go out and do her day's work, and obtain them again at night. Much suffering is prevented, and great good is being done, in this way. 3d, There are thousands of children in the city who cannot go to the public schools. Their rags and poverty shut them out. They are unable to pay for an educa- tion ; and such is their poverty, that they cannot avail themselves of a gratis one. The institution is gathering in this class of children, giving them food and clothing, and, with the bread of charity, giving them also food for the mind. Various religious meetings are also held in the insti- tution, to which the poor of the city are urged to come. Among others is a prayer-meeting for poor mothers, under the management of the matron, Mrs. Harriet N. Plummer. Rev. R. G. Soles is the superintendent. CHAPTER XXIII. BOSTON HOTELS. — CHARITIES. — FIRE-TELEGRAPH. An interesting subject of inquiry to the traveller, as he approaches a strange city, is, at ■what house of entertain- ment he shall stop. When after his arrival, rested and refreshed, he moves through its apartments in ineffectual search of occupation for Iiis mind (for neither our hotels nor our railway stations are made too cheerful or attract- ive), his imagination recurs to the probable experiences of parents, kindred, or friends wlio may have been in the place before him. It would be a difficult task, out of the materials we possess, to pi-esent any complete his- torical sketch of the inns and ordinaries of Boston in early, or even more recent days ; but a few of those of most note deserve some mention. Mr. Drake tells us, that in 1634, Samxiel Cole opened the first tavern. It was situated on the west side of Mer- chants' Row, about midway between Dock Square and State, then King Street. OHiers soon followed ; and we find fi'equent allusion made before 1700, to the State Arms in King Street, corner of what is now Exchange 180 BOSTON AND VICINITY. 181 Street ; Ship, in Aun Street, 1666 ; King's Arms, kept by Thomas Veuner, on Fore Street; King's Ilciul, 1691, Scarlett's Whai'f, near Fleet Street ; Red Liun, near Richmond Street, lGGG-1766; Castle, 1G75-1G'J3, on Mackerel Lane, now Congress Street ; and the Green- dragon Tavern, on Union Street, 160G-1824. After 1700, wc I'md the Blue Anchor; Star, in Hano- ver Sti'eet ; Swan, 1708 ; Queen's Head, 1732, near Fleet Street ; the Bight of Logan, now " Bite," on Dock Square ; Cross, corner of Cross and Aun Streets, 1732 ; Crown Coffee House, foot of King Street, 1724 ; Bimch of Grapes, 1724, King, corner of Kilby Street ; Royal Exchange, King, corner of Exchange Street, 1727 ; Ad- miral Vernon, 1743-1745, corner of King Street and Merchants' Row; Red Cross, 1746; Salutation, 1731, on Ship Street, so called from its sign of two men, in the fashionable dress of the times, meeting, and shaking hands ; British Coffee House, King Street, above Mer- chants' Row; Cromwell's Head, 1760, School Street; King's Arms, or George's Tavern, on the Neck, near Roxbury line, where the General Court sate in 1721 ; Holland's, corner of Howard Street, aiterwards Pembcr- ton House; Swan, Cornhill, 1755; White Horse, Hay- ward Place, 1724-1760 ; Three Horse Shoes, near Com- mon Street, 1744-1775; Swan, South End, 1784; In- dian Queen, Bromfield Street, and Golden Ball. 16 182 BOSTON AND VICINITY. Of the above, the State Arms, King Street, in 1653, was noted as the place where the magistrates used to re- sort. The ship, corner of Chirk and Ann .Streets, was kept by Vials in 1666 ; and tliere, on the evening of the 18th of January of that year. Sir Robert Carr, the royal commissioner, made merry with his friends. It was Saturday evening, and by the laws of that period a part of tlie Sabbath ; and carousing there at such a time was a penal offence. Being arrested by Arthur Mason, constable, he remonstrated at so great an indignity to the king's representative ; but Mason replied tliat lie should have arrested the king himself had he been there, and broken the law. About seven o'clock, Sept. 5, 1769, the patriot James Otis, who had posted the commissioners of customs for some similar affront to himself, entered the British Coffee House, standing on King Street, on the site of the Massacliusetts Bank, where Robinson, one of the commissioners, was sitting in company with a number of army, navy, and revenue officers. An alter- cation took place ; blows were interchanged, and Mr. Otis was seriously injured by a blow on the head with a brass candlestick, from the effects of which he never completely recovered. The Royal Exchange, on a por- tion of the site of the Merchants' Bank, was long among the most prominent of the taverns ; and auction-sales and business-meetings often took place there. Near the BOSTON AND VICINITY. 183 market was the Roebuck Inn. The house of most his- torical interest, from having been the headquarters and place of most frequent resort of the Liberty Boys in the troublous times preceding the Revolution, was the Green- dragon Tavern, on Union Street, for a long period owned by St. Andrew's Lodge of Freemasons, to whom the es- tate still belongs. For a long period after the town was settled, strangers arrived for the most part b_y sea ; and the inns were near the Avater. But, as the population increased, the roads Avere more travelled ; and, about the middle of the last centiuy, public conveyances came in vogue. With them sprang up such taverns as are still found in country places. The Eastern-stage House, on Ann Street, be- tween Cross and Centre Streets, the Elm-street House, City Tavern on Brattle Street, Earl's on Hanover Street, were all famous in their day for fine teams of horses and merry drivers ; none surpassing in speed or pleasantry whips who averaged ten miles an hour on the Portsmouth Road. The French Revolution brought to Boston its share of emigres^ and likewise a taste for French cooking ; and, early in the present centuiy, Julien established a cele- brated eating-house on Milk Street. The service was on silver, and the guest himself selected from the capacious larder hung round with a tempting display of birds and l.S4 KOSTON AND YICIMTT. veuison, or viands more substantial. On Congress and Devonshire Streets, near State Street, was built, about the year 1(S04, tlie largest hotel, up to tliat time, in the countr}', — the Boston Exchange. It was consumed by fire in 1818. Henry Clay was stopping there, and it is said he was engaged in his favorite game of cards when the fire broke out. lie carried his cards to the sidewalk, and as the light of the fire showed Avhat they were, he remarked to his companion, in a tone expressive of his disappointment at not being permitted to finish the game, that he held three white aces, the best hand in the pack. Mr. Ilalloweirs house on Batterymarch Street, became the Sun Tavern. The Commercial Coffee House, near by, on Milk Street, was large and liberally patron- ized. Hatch's house, opposite the Common, near West Street, the Pearl-street House, the Lion, and the Lamb, have all passed away ; but the Marlborough and Adams on Washington Street, Pavilion on Tremont Street, Al- bion on Beacon Street, Bromfield on Bromtield Street, American on Hanover Street, New England on Clin- ton Street, Merrimack on Merrimack Street, Massachu- setts on Endicott Street, Hancock on Court Square, Quincy on Brattle Street, all good houses, have taken their place. Of the more expensive class, the Tremont House, opened in 1830, the Revere, on Bowdoin Square, have BOSTON' A\D VICINITY. l^O each in turn started a new era in hotel accouimodaiion. Both were long under the charge of Mr. Faran Stevens, who at the same time leased the Fifth-avenue Hotel in New York, and Continental in Philadelphia. Parker's marble palace, on School Street, is kept on a different plan from the rest ; the charges for board and lodging being distinct. Young's Hotel, Cornhill Court, on the same plan, is also much resorted to for social and festal purposes, political gatherings, and business meetings. Though not in the city, the Taft House, at Point Shirley, is widely kuovvu for its exquisite game dinners. So ma- ny people reside at a distance from their places of busi- ness, that innumerable restaurants, eating-houses, and confectioneries, are to be found in the central parts of the city. These are too numerous for any list to be attempted. There are also many large buildings where apartments can be had, either with or without accommo- dations for food ; such as the Coolidge House, Pelham Hotel, Evans House, and Wiuthrop House, 34 Bowdoin Street, corner of Allston. Charities. — The curiosity of the intelligent stranger will be naturally attracted to our institutions and associ- ations for the relief of want. Several of these, and amongst them the Massachusetts and City General Hos- pitals, the McLean Asylum for the Insane, at Somer- ville, and Washingtonian Home, have been already men- 16* 186 BOSTON AND VICINITY. tioned. Besides these, the City Luuatic Asylum, at South Boston, soon to be located at Winthrop ; the Hos- pital foi' Women and Children, on Pleasant Street ; the Good Samaritan, on McLean Street ; the Carney Catho- lic, at South Boston ; tlie Ryan, or Chauning Home for Incurables, on South Street ; the State, on Rainstbrd Island ; the Naval and Marine, at Chelsea ; the Eye and Ear Infirmary, on Charles Street, — are the most impor- tant. Contagious diseases are treated at the Small-pox Hospital near the south city stables, at Rainsfoixl Island, or at Deer Island. There have been during the war many houses and hospitals for soldiers, of which the Home in Springfield Street has been most generously supported. These will soon be closed. A large fund is accumulating for a Lying-in Hospital, which amounts to nearly a hundred thousand dollars. Institutions for chronic cases, paralytics, foundlings, and consumptive patients, are thought by some to be needed, although the latter class are in part provided for by Dr. Cutler's pri- vate retreat on Veruou Street. At No. 18 Kneeland Street, and No. 82 Rutland Street, are Refuges for females. Missions for relief and reform are established at No. 144 Hanover Street, and at No. 80 North Street ; and for mariners at No. 247 North Street. At No. 16 Tremont Temple, at the Homes for the Destitute, No. 24 Kneeland Street, St. Stephen's, Pur- BOSTON AKD VICINITY. 187 chase Street, and at the City Temporary, No. 36 Charles Street, numbers find board or lodging, aid in regaining their homes or in finding employment. Another institu- tion has been established on Sudbury Street for similar objects. The Asyhim for the Blind, at South Boston, with which is connected the Massachusetts School for Idiotio and Feeble-minded Youth, are under the charge of Dr. Samuel G. Howe, the eminent philanthropist. The Old Ladies' Home, by the water, near Charles Street, has over one hundred inmates, and that for Aged Men, established in 1861, about twenty-four: one for colored females, on the Back Bay, is nearly ready for occupation. Asylums for children are numerous. Of these, are the Farm School, at Thompson's Island ; Female Orphan, Washington Street; Children's Friend, Rutland Street; vSt. Vincent's, Camden Street ; Church Home, Charles Street ; and the Baldwin-place Home for Little Wander- ers, already noticed. There is at Newton a refuge for juvenile offenders, and truants are sent to Deer Island. At Koxbury is the House of the Angel Guardian, with about five hundred pupils. At Deer Island are the City Alms-house, Huuse of Industry, House of Reformation, and a Small-pox Hospital. At South Boston, the House of Correction. On Gallop's Island, accommodation has been prepared for persons coming from infected ships or 188 BOSTON AND VICINITY. places. The State institutions, besides the State Prison at Charlestowu, and Hospital at Rainsfoi-d Island, men- tioned elsewhere, are three Lunatic Asylums, at North- ampton, Worcester, and Taunton ; three alms-houses, at Monson, Bridgewaler, and Tewksbury ; the Reform School for boys, at Westbqrough, for girls at Lancaster, and two School Sliips. As these institutions are filled as much from Boston as from other parts of the State, they are thus briefly alluded to. They are under the care of the board of State charities. Dr. Wheelwright, the agent, has an office in the State House. One hundred thousand dollars is expended annually through this board for the non-settlement poor \\ ho are sick, and too ill to be removed to an alms-house. Under the State-aid Acts, large sums are distributed to the families of those who served in the late war. The other agencies for the lelief of the poor at their own homes are numerous. The overseers of the poor, who have trust funds to the amount of two hundred thou- sand dollars in value, and liberal appropriations from the city council, relieve all who have settlements in the city, now including soldiers who have seived on its quota. They relieve also destitute persons having settlements elsewhere in the State, at the expense of the settlement towns. Where education is so general, and, amongst our native- BOSTON .VN1> VK.IXITV. 189 boru populatiou, the average capital for o'lcli inhabitant exceeds two tliousand doUars, and where industrial em- ployments are varied and prosperous, the proportion of the helpless poor is naturally small ; and even these are, for the most part, supported by their relatives and friends, by churches, or mutual-aid societies. But the numbers here, born abroad, infirm, aged, or helpless, impose a heavy if not unwelcome burthen on the charity of the city. This has led to the organization of various socie- ties for their relief, through whose agency large sums are distributed. Of these we can notice only llie more considerable. The Provident Association, No. 284 Washington Street; the Howard Benevolent; Young Men's Benevolent; many church and city missions, including the esteemed Father Cleveland's ; tlie Fatherless and Widows', Wid- ows' and Singlewomen's, Female Samaritan, British, Irish, Hibernian, Scotch, Scandinavian, Boston Episco- pal Charitable ; and mutual aid societies, such as the Free- masons, Odd Fellows, Massachusetts Charitable, — are some of the chief. Tlie Industrial aid Society, for find- ing employment for the poor, having its offices under the church on Bovvdoin Square, and the Needlewoman's Friend Society, on Channing Place, are also among the ))rincipal. The Warren-street Chapel, the Old South Chapel on Chambers Street, and the Young Mens' Chris- U)(» KOSTOX AM> VICINITY. tian Association at the Tremout Teiuple, exert a happy religious and moral influence over the poor. To enable these various societies to work in concert, prevent imposition, and extend every possible and rea- sonable assistance to the deserving, the city council, in December, 1864, authorized, on condition that thii-ty thousand dollars should be contributed at large, tJie erec- tion of a central relief building, in which the overseers, and such of the charitable societies as might desire it, or would be accommodated, should be under the same roof. Opportunity will thus be afforded to sensible persons en- gaged in the duty of almsgiving, to confer, compare opinions, and to further in concert plans for the relief of new forms of distress. It will admit of the system of registration and investigation, and those in need can be more speedily made again dependent on their own exer- tions and resources. In the same building, it might be Avished that the Board of State Charities and Alien Com- missioners should also have their offices. It Avould be of advantage to have near it the City Temporary Home, now in Charles Street, where food is furnished to the destitute, and lodgings to women and ciuldren who are homeless. Medical advice is given, and surgical operations are performed gratuitously, at the hospitals ; and at the Bo>-- ton Dispensary, on Bennett Street, on several days in the h.usroN AND VU'INHV. ]i)l wet'k, medic'iues are also distributed to tlie poor; aud its pliysiciaus attend at their dwellings without charge. The Fire-alarm Telegraph. — The syt;tem of tele- graphic lire alarm was originated by Dr. William F. Cliauuiug, of liostou, and Moses G. Farmer, of Salem. As early as 1845, Dr. Channing, in a lecture delivered before the Smithsonian Institute, suggested the employ- ment of the telegraph as a means of giving alarms of fire. In 1848, the subject was brought before the city gov- ernment of Boston by the mayor; and two machines for striking the city bells from a distance, by means of the telegraph, were constructed under the direction of Moses G. Farmer, Esq., one of the ablest and most ingenious telegraphic engineei'S in the country. Ono of these ma- chines was placed in tlie beUVy of the Boston City Hall, and connected with the line of telegraphs extending to New York ; and the telegraph-operator in New Yoik, by tapping on the key, struck the bell on the City Hall sev- eral times, thereby causing a false alarm of fire in Boston. This was the first exhibition of the capacities of the fire- alarm telegraph. In 1851, the city government of Boston appropriated ten thousand dollars to test the system. The construc- tion and mechanical arrangements were iuti-usted to the charge of Mr. Moses G. Farmer, and during the next year were brought by him into successful operation. li*2 UOSTOX AN1> VICIKITV. The fire-alarm office is situated iu the dome of the City Hall. From this point, wires radiate to all parts of the city. At the present time, seventy-five signal stations, or boxes, plainly numbered, are located at convenient points about the city, and are in communication with the cen- tral office by means of the wires, which being constantly cliarged Avith electricity, are ready to communicate an alarm at any moment. Tiiis is done by simply turning a crank, which starts the instrument in the box, and tele- graphs its number to the central otlice, and continues to repeat its number as long as the crank is* turned. The operator on duty at the City Hall receives upon a register the number thus transmitted, and communicates it to the firemen by striking upon all the alarm-bells, of- which there are upwards of thirty. To illustrate the striking of the bells for an alarm of fire, we give the two follow- ing numbers, — 24 and 175. To announce No. 24, the operator at the central station strikes upon the alarm-bells two blows, and after a pause of two or three seconds, four blows more, thus indicating the number (24) of the box mentioned. This is repeated six or eight times until the firemen ;ire sufficiently notified of the locality of the fire. For box 175, the bells would strike one, seven, and five blows, with proper intervals, and repeated as long as necessary. To indicate the true time for the city, a single blow is BOSTON' AND VICINITV. l^H struck simultaneously upon all of the nlarm-l)clls, nt pre- cisely twelve o'clock of each day. Joseph B. Stearns, Esq., is the suporintendent of the fire-alarm telegraph, aided by Charles A. Stearns, and three other assistants. In 1858, the city government authorized the construc- tion of a police telegraph, which was built under the superintendence of Joseph B. Stearns, and connects bv telegraph-lines the oliice of the chief of police with the police-stations in the different parts of the city. This is used for police purposes only, and is operated at the different stations. 17 ' " V. J' 4' ; I. \ 1 #^ K / % '4 - o;r4jA'/-A>> fh -; ;..t. ;,/ ' ^ K,.,, ofBOSTOH I \N 1 I ^^....^ ^%^. \t ^^^^-^^ ^V -^^ Ai'/nAil- ..^-A ' y. v.lit H""" '' '■( u ^__ „____^ . „ I - Boston and Vicinity. CHAPTER XXIV. CAMBRIDGE. — OLD FORTIFICATIONS, HARVARD INSTITUTE, GORE HALL, AVASHINGTON HOUSE, RIEDESEL HOUSE, "WASHINGTON ELM. — MOUNT AUBURN. Taking the cars from Bowdoiu Square, it takes but a short time to be landed in Cambridge. At the corner of luraan Street stands an old mansion, shaded by noble trees, find with an ample lawn in front. Previous to the Revolu- tion it was owned and occupied by Ralph Inman, a wealthy tory, who was unceremoniously dispossessed, and his fine house assigned as head quarters to the redoubtable General Putnam. The street which leads up to the side entrance of the house perpetuates the name of its original owner. The ridge of land called Dana Hill, which is approached by an almost imperceptible ascent, forms the natural boundary between the " Port " and " Old Cambridge." On the summit of this ridge, on the right hand side of the road, was located one of the chain of redoubts erected by the Americans at the outset of the revolution. Traces of it have been visible within a very few years, but they are now obliterated in the march of improvement — that 1 7 * 107 1 U8 KOSrON AS\} \ ICIMIT. same spirit of progress which made it necessary to cut a road through another old fort, a little beyond the one just mentioned, on the opposite side of the way. The land never having been required for building purposes, this redoubt continued in a good state of preservation, and its embankment and fosse were plainly distinguishable. Still following the " Main Street," it is not long before the turrets of Gore Hall — the library building of the "vcr ity — come in sight, and a side glimpse of the oilier college buildings is obtained through the trees. The University Libraky is divided into four depart- BOSTON AND VICINITY. li)9 ments, viz., Theological, Medical, Law, and College ; which last, besides books in all other departments of learning, embraces also an extensive collection of works on theology, medicine, and law. The Theological Library is in Divinity Hall. Per- sons entitled to its jjrivileges must be connected with the divinity school. Number of books, about 16,000. They consist of valuable select works, principally in modern theology, with some of the early Fathers. The Medical Library is in the Medical College in Boston. It is placed there for the convenience of students attending the medical lectures. The number of books is about 2.000. The La"\v Library is in Dane Hall. It is designed for the otficers and students of the law school. Number of books, about 13,000. It contains most of the valuable works in English and American law, and in the civil law, together with a variety of others, by writers of France, Germany, and Spain. Gore Hall is of recent construction. The outer walls of the building are of rough Quincy granite, laid in reg- ular courses, with hammered-stone buttresses, towers, pinnacles, drip-stones, &c. It is in the form of a Latin cross, the extreme length of which externally is one hun- dred and forty feet, and thi'ough the transept eighty-one and a half feet. 2UU IJOSTON AND VICINITV. The interior contains a liall one limidred untl twelve feet long, and fliirty-tive feet liiuli, witli a vaulted ceiling supported by twenty ribbed columns. The spaces between the columns and side-walls are divided by partitions into stalls or alcoves for books, above and below the gallery. The public library is for the common use of the whole University, in this respect diflering from the other branches of the University library ; and it may be con- sulted, diu'ing library lioui's, by all i)ei'sons, whether con- nected with the University or not. The total number of books is about 116,000; of which 1,000 belong to the Boylston Medical Library, in immediate connection with it. In term time (excepting Christmas Day, New- Year's Day, Fast Day, the 4th of July, and the two recesses), the libra- ry is open, on the first five secular days of the week, from nine, a.m., till one, p.m., and from two, p.m., till five, p.m.. or till sunset, when that is l)eforo five. In the summer vacation, it is open from nine to one o'clock every Mon- day ; and, in the winter vacation, every Monday, Wednes- thiy, and Friday during the same hours. The total nuiuber of books in the libraries of the University is about 167,500. All persons who wish to have access to the library, or to bring their friends to see it, are expect- ed to make their visits on the days and within the hours above named. UNIVERSITY Hall is a handsome granite edifice, and KosTuN Axu vicixnv. 201 contains the old chapel, lecture-rooms, &c. Besides the large halls occupied by the undergraduates, there are Divinity Hall, appropriated to theological students. Mu- seum OF Zoology, IIakvauu Hall, Appleton Chapel, BoYLSTON Hall, &c. A large observatory is furnished with one of the largest and finest telescopes in the world. The Legislative Govekxment is vested in a corporation, which consists of the president and six fellows, and a board of overseers, composed of the president and treas- urer, ex officiis, together with thirty others, elected by the alumni. The faculty of instruction, embracing the pro- fessional and scientific schools, consists of the president, forty-five professors, five tutors, and several teachers. The degree of Bachelor of Arts is conferred at the close of a course of four years' study, there are very liberal funds appropriated to the support of students who require assistance in the prosecution of their studies. The term of study for the divinity school is three years ; that of the law school, tw,o years. The law school, which enjoys a high repute, was established in 1817. The lectures to the medical students are delivered at the Massachusetts Medical College, in Boston. A degree of M. D. is con- ferred only upon those students who have attended the courses of lectures, and spent three years under the tui- tion of a regular physician. '202 )',<>ST<»X AXl> VICINITY. From an am-ieut inauuscript copy of " ®IIE LAWES And orders of harvard COLLEDGE " agreed upou April 2, IGoT), we take the following: — Every one shall so exercise himselfe in reading the Scrip- tures twice every day that he shall bee ready to give ac- count of his proficiency therein, both in theoreticall obser- vations of Language & Logicke, & in practicall & Spir- itual} truths as his Tutor shiill require, according to their f-everall standings respectively. Seeing the enti'ance of the word gives Light. Psal. 119, 130. All Students shall eschew the profanation of God's holy Name, Attributes, Word, or Ordinances & Times of wor- ship and in th(^ pnblique asseinblyes they shall carefully eschew whatsoever may shew any contempt or neglect thereof .and be ready to give an account to their Tutors of their protitting & to use such helpes of storing themselves with knowledge, as their Tutors shall direct. T]i(! foundation of Harvard University is one of the most lionorable events in the history of INIassachusetts. In 1G36, six years only after the settlement of Boston, the General Court appropriated four hundred pounds for the establishment of a school or college at Cambridge, then called Newtown. When we consider the scantiness of the colonial resources, and the value of money at that time, the allowance appears no less than munificent. The colonial records mention this a]>propriation in the follow- lit IS ION AND VICINITV. "ZOo ing torms : " The court agrood to give four liundrcfl pouii.ls towards a school or college, whereof two hundred pounds be paid the next year, and two hundred pounds when tlic work is finished, and the next court to appoint where and what building." The colonists were then involved in the Pequod war. Savage says the ?um was " equal to a year's rate of the whole colony." Bu't the college owes its exist- ence in fact — for it is doubtful whether the legislature would have carried their plans beyond the establishment of a grammar school — to the liberality of an English clergyman, the Rev. John Harvard, who died in Charles- town in 16.38. Very little is known respecting this benefactor of learning. Plis birthplace, even, cannot ho ascertained. He was, however, a man of education, hav- ing graduated at Cambridge University, England : he preached in Charlestown, where he died about a year after his arrival in the country. Harvard left by will one-half of his estate, about £800, to the school which the legislature had established in Newtown. His bequest gave a vigorous impetus to the new establishment, and the General Court at once determined to erect it into a col- lege, to be called Harvard, in commemoration of its bene- factor ; while in honor of the classic seat of learning in the mother country, where so many of the colonists had been educated, the name of Newtown was changed to that of Cambridge. " It pleased God," says a contempo- 20i r.osroN anh vk iniiv. rary writf-r, "to stir up the heart of one Mr. Harvard (a f'odly gentleman and lover of learning then living among us) to give one half of his estate towards the erection of a college, and all his librai-y." " When," says Edward Everett, in his address delivered at the erection of a monument to John Harvard, in the graveyard at Charlestown, September 2G, 1828, " we think of the miglity importance, in our communii}', of the sys- tem of public instruction, and regard the venerable man whom we commemorate as the first to set the example of contributing liberally for the endowment of places of edu- cation, (an example faithfully imitated in this region in almost every succeeding age,) we cannot, as patriots, admit that any honor wiiich it is in our power to pay to his memory is beyond his desert." The imi)ulse given by John Harvard's generosity placed the permanence of the college out of danger. Four years after Harvai-d's deatli, a class gradiiatcd, whose finished education rctlected the highest credit on tlieir alma mater. The university became the pride of the colony. English youths were sent hither to receive their education. The legislature continued its guardianship and care, and aided it by timely donations, while private individuals, animated by the spirit and example of Harvard, poured their con- tributions and bequests into its treasury. It was richly endowed, a:id in resources, buildings, library, and profes- BOSTON AN1» VKIMJV. 205 sorships it takes precedence of all other institutions of" learning in the country. The aimual commencement still attracts crowds, and is regarded with interest ; and tor two centuries it was to Cambridge, Boston, and its environs the great event of the year. It gathered together all the dignitaries, all the learning, and all tlie beauty and fashion of the land. The university comjn'ises a department for under graduates and schools of theology, law, and medicine. A most im- portant addition to the educational advantages of Cam- bridge was the founding of the Scientific School, in 1848, by Hon. Abbott Lawrence, with a fund of fifty thousand dollars, which has since been largely increased. In this school, young men who have not received a classi- cal education can be fitted for various departments of business, as chemists, civil engineers, navigators, &c. On the left, opposite Gore Hall, is seen a large, square, old-fashioned house, at a little distance from the street, which wa3 built by Mr. Aj)thorp, who was a native of Boston, but received his education at the university of Cambridge, in England, where he took orders, and received the appointment of missionary to the newly-established church in this place. He is said to have been a very am- bitious man, and to have had his eye upon a bishopric, which he fondly hoped would be established in New Eng- land, having Cambridge for its centre, and himself the 18 206 UOSTUN AM) VICIMTV. incfrojpulitan. It Jiui.-i be confessed that llic stately man- i-ion which was erected for his use, still styled "the Bish- op's Palack," lar surpassing in pretensions the general- ity ot" houses at that day. givers some coun;enance to the traditionary report of his aristocratic jtredilections. But whatever may have been his expec;a;ion.~, they were doomCM:! to disappointment, and his house — tiie .-ame w hlch, a i\'w years after the departure of its original ]»ro- prietor, received tiie haughty Burgoyne beneath its roof, not as a master, but as a discomfited prisoner of war — yet retains unmistakable traces of its former elegance. Let the stranger stroll along the old road to Watcrtown — the Brattle Street of the moderns. Leaving the ven- erable Brattle mansion on the left, — now cast into the shade by the "Brattle IIon^(^'' erected on a portion of its once elegant domain, — and pa^^sing beyond the more thickly settled part of the village, he will find, on each side of the way, spacious edifices, belonging to some for- mer day and generation ; extensive gardens, fai'ms, and orchards, evidently of no modern date ; and trees whose giant forms were the gi-owth of years gone by. AVho built these stately mansions, so unlike the usual New Eng- land dwellings of ancient days, with their spacious lawns, shaded by noble elms, and adorned with shrubbery ? "Who were the proprietors of these elegant seats, which arrest the att(Mition and cliarm the eA'e of the passing travellei- ? BOSTON AM) VICINITY, •207 AVho were the original occupants of these abodes of aris- tocratic pride and wealth. — for such they must have been, • — and whose voices waked the eclioes in these lofty halls? A race of men which has passed away forever! Tliey are gone. Their tombs are in a distar.t land; even their names have j)ass(-d from remi'mhi-ance ; and nought re- mains to tell of their sojourn here save these stately piles, whose walls once echoed to the sound of pipe and harp, and whose courts reverberated with the notes of their national anthem. Prominent among these residences of the royalists of •208 BOSTON ANK VICIMTV. olden time is lliat of Colo;u I John Yassall, whicli became in July, 1770, the head <|iiarters of General Washington; an edifice even more elegant and ^-pacious tlian its fellow.-, standing in the mid.-t of shrubbery and stalely elms, a little distance from the -street, once the highway from Har- vard University to Waltham. At tins mansion, and ar Winter Hill, Washington passed most of his time aftei' taking command of the continental army, until the evacu- ation of Boston in the fi)llowing spring. Its proent owner is Henry Wadsworih Longfellow, widely known in the world of literature as one of the most gifted men of the age. It is a spot worthy of the residence of an American bard so endowed, for the associations which hallow it are linked with the noblest themes that ever awakened the inspiration of a child of ^onG'. This mansion stands upon the npjx^r of two terraces, which are ascended each by five stone steps. At each front corner of the house is a lofty elm, mere saplings when Washington beheld them, but now stately and patri- archal in appearance. Other elms, with flowers and shrub- bery, beautify the grounds around it ; wiiile within, icono- clastic innovation has not been allowed to enter with its mallet and trowel, to mar the work of the ancient builder, and to cover with the vulgar stucco of modern art the carved cornices and panelled w^ainscots that first enriched it. A few rods above the residence of Professor Lonjrfel- BOSTON AND VICINITY. 209 Icnv is ihe house in which the Biimswick general, the Ijarox Riedksel, and his family were quartered, during tlie stay of the captive army of Burgoyne in the vicinity of Boston. Upon a window pane on the north side of the house may be seen the undoubted autograph of the accom- plished Baroness Riedesel. It is an interesting memento, and preserved with great eare. Near the westerly eorner of the Common, upon Wash- ington Street, stands the Washington Elm, one of the ancient anakim of the primeval forest, older, probably, by half a century or moi-e, than the welcome of Samoset to the white settlers, and is distinguished by the circumstance that beneath its broad shadow Gineral Washington first 18* 210 BOSTON AND VICINITY. drew his SAVorJ as commuiidL'r-in-chk't" ol" the contiueutal army, on the morning of July 3d, 177.3. iS^ot far from here Avas the spot where public town meetings were held, and also the tree under which the Indian council fires were lighted more than two hundred years ago. When the drum was used in Cambridge, instead of the bell, to summon the congregntion to the ])lace of worship, or to give warning of a savagi'. enemy, tlie sound floated throughout those trailing limbs, that, eould they but speak, would take a veteran's delight in telling of the past. May no unkind hand mar the last tree of the native forest. HUSTON AND VKIM IV. 21 i Though it may have stood century alter century, like a sentinel on duty, def) ing the lightning and tlie storm, still let it stand, an interesting and sacred memorial of the }iast and the present, and continue to be associated, for many years to come, Avilh the history of our country. And let the illustrious name whicli it bears, and which it dei-ives from one of the most important events in the life of the father of his country, preserve it to remind the coming generations of his invaluable services and labors. Mount Aluijrn. — The cemetery of Mount Auburn, justly celebrated as the most interesting object of the kind in our country, is situated in Cambridge and Watertown, about four and a half miles from the city of Boston, and one and a quarter miles west of Harvard UniA'ersity. It includes upwards of one hundred acres of land, purchased at diffei-ent times by th(; Massachusetts Horticultural Soci- ety, extending from the main road nearly to the banks of Charles River. A portion of the land next to the road, and now under cultivation, once constituted the experi- mental garden of the society. A long watercourse be- tween this tract and the interior woodland formed a nat- ural boundary, separating the two sections. The inner portion, wliich was set apart for the purposes of a ceme- tery, is covered, throughout most of its extent, with a vigorous growth of forest trees, many of them of large size, and comprising an unusual variety of species. This 1. Road to Fresh Pond. 14. Juniper Hill. 2. Chapel. 15. Temple Hill. 3. Spruce Aveirne. 16. Rosemary Path. 4. Public Lot. 17. Jasmine Path. 5. Laurel Hill. 18. Chestnut Avenue 6. "Walnut Avenue. 19. Poplar Aveime. 7. Mountain Avenue. 20. Meadow Pond. 8. Mount Auburn Tower. 21. Lime Avenue. 9. Dell Path. 22. Larch Avenue. 10. Pine Hill. 23. Garden Pond. 11. Central Square. 24. Forest Poiul. 12. Cedar Hill. 2.5. Central A\enue. 13. Harvard Hill. 21i lK)M'ON AM) VICIMTV. "i ] . "j tract is beautifully undulating in its surface, containing a number of bold eminences, steep acclivitiCTvand deep, i-liadowy valleys. A remarkable natural ridge, with a level surface, runs througli the ground fi-om south-east to north-west, which wa> for many year^ u favorite walk with the students of Harvard. The principal eminence, 'called Mount Aul)urn. is one hundred and iwcnty-five feet above the level of Charles Ifivcr, and commands i'rom its sum- mit one of the fine- 1 prospects which can be obtained in the environs of F.oston. On one side is tiie city, in full view, connected at its extremities with Chai'lestown and Roxburv. The serpentine course of Charles Kiver, with the cultivated hills and fields rising beyond it, and the Blue Hills of Milton in the distance, occupies another portion of the landscape. On the north, at a very small distance. Fresh Pond appears, a handsome sheet of water, finely diversified by its woody and irregular shores. Country seats and cottages, in various directions, and es])ecially tho-e on the elevated land at Watertown, add much to the ])icturesque effect of the scene. On the summit of this elevation a tower has been erected, (of sufficient height to be seen above the surrounding trees.) to subserve the triple purpose of a lar.dniark, to identify the s])ot, and for an observatory, commanding an uninter- rupted view of the surrounding landsca];e of cities, towns, hills, fainns, rivers, Massachusetts Bay, with its many 2\ i BOSTON AND VKJINITV. islands aiul shipping. The lantern or cupohi of this tower is at, least one liuxidred and eighty-five feet above Chai'les River. The front entrance, gate from Cambridge road is a design from an Kgyj tian model, and is masterly chiselled in granite, at a co.-t of about ten thousand dolhirs; and the cast iron picketed fence on that whole fi-oni line was erected at a cost of about fifteen thousand dollars ; a splendid cha|K'l was completed within its grounds in 184ft, at a cost of jibout twenty-Hve thousand dollai's. Strangers ca:i i-eccive on application to any trustee, or to the secretary, a ju'rinit to enter the cemetery with a carriage any day exce|)t Sundays and holidays ; but with- out a vehicle, visitors are admitted without charge. 'J'iie following direct guide through tlie cemetery is taken from "Dearborn's Guide through Mount Aul)urn," a book that maybe procured at the entrance. "The fj'o;it line of the cemetery is east to west; and Central Av<'ihi<', fronting the gate, is from the north to the south. From the gate, advance in front up Central Avenue, and on the lel't, on an elevated plot, is the monu- ment to SiKir/.heim, and a little farther is the metal bronzed statue of Dowditch, in a sitting posture; then turn to the west, into Chapel Avenue, and you see a beautiful monument erected to the memory of Dr. Sharp, and also a magnificent temj)le, appropriated to the sanctu- U(.)ST<)N Ai\I) VICINITV. ^],') ary services of the grave; pass on into Pine Avenue. ai..l there are the Shaw and Dorr nioniunents; continne Pine AveJiue to the north-west, which leads to Gjeen Brier and \ arrow Patlis, and there are the inonnnients to ImsIki-, Haughton, Fessenden, Channing, Curtis Turner, Ban<>--. I lie scul})tured child of Binncy, Doanc, Gossler, Allen, with numerous other pillars and obelisks to meet the eye; :ifter this examination, turn into Heliotrope and Heath Paths for sculpture of Gardner's child, nioiunnent of Wil- liam Apph'ton. and I he splendid nia.i>oleum of two fronts to 1)1-. P>iui:ey; Armstrong, Shattuck's boy; p;,ss into Fir Avenue at tiie west, and view the ]\Iagoun monument of mother and daughter ; then tui-n to the south, whci-e are the monuments to Torrey, Mrs. N. P. Willis, Bates, Lin- coln, Pickens, and many others; pass through Fir Avenue to the south, crossing S])ruce Avenue, curving to the south-east, and then turn to the right hand into Walnut Avenue, and at the right han.l are Elder, Pilgrim, and Snowdrop Paths, on a north-west line, and view the ele- gantly carved temj)les of Cotting, Miles, Bush, Foss, Pen- niman, Shattuck, Farrar, Wolcott, Hartshorn, and others ; return to Walnut Avenue, and pass through it. curving to the south, and view the monuments to Hicks, Worcester, Watson, and others ; then turn to the left into Mountain Avenue, north-westerly, and ascend Mount Auburn's high- est mound, one hundred and twentv-five feet above the lM() HUSTON AND VICINITY. River Charles, from whence Boston and the siii romiding counliv may be seen ; then descend Mount Anhiirn on the soutli-east, through Ilazel Path, curving round to the north, and view the FuUer monument ; then pass on to Harvard Hill at the north-east ; here the eye will greet the mausoleums to Andrews, Kirkland. Ashmun, Hoff- man, and offiC("rs of" Harvard University, and also to some of the students ; descend into Rose Path, at the south- west, where are monuments of Scudder and Davis, encir- cling its base, to the eastward ; then turn to the light hand into Sweet Brier Path, and continue to its south-cat termination, and there is a mausoleum to Cofiin ; then turn to the left hand into Chestnut Avenue, and at its junction with Hawthorn Path is the Tremont Strangers' Tomb ; continue north-west through Hawthorn Path, which leads to Cedar Hill, where are the monuments to Hildreth, Appleton, and others; from thence soutli-we>t, round Cedar Hill, is Ivy Path, whicli ciirves to the norih, and at the end of this branch, a little to the west, is Con- secration Dell, where an; monuments to Stanton, Watts, Waterson, Leverett, Dana, &c. ; leave Consecration Dell at its north-west corner, and pass into Vine Path, crossing Moss Path by the monument to Steains, on to Central Square, where are monuments to Hannah Adams. Mur- ray, and others ; at the north-west of Central Square is Poplar Avenue, ctu-ving to the east; and there may l»e KosroN .AM) VK.rNITV. 21, seen iiu'iiK-iirocs to Warren Culhiirn, Sturgis. Choate, jNIunson, ]\Ir.-. Ellis, and otlier? ; then turn round to the left into the ea-^tern line of Willow AvcMuie, curving round into its western line, and there are obelisks or mausoleums to McLellan. Williams, Buekingham. Randall, Chamber- lain, Thavci-. Tuekerman, Mrs. Gannett, Lowell, Mason, Howard. aii, Fearing, West, To my Mary, Stack- pole, and others are erected ; then i-eturn to Catalpa Path west, to Linden Path, near to Beach Avenue, where are monuments to Ta])pan, Thaxter, Raymond, and others ; pass through Beach Avenue to the south, where are the monuments of Bigelow, Stone, Stevens, Coolidge, Putnam, &c. ; then turn round to the right hand into Central Avc;- nue, where are the monuments of Harnden, Gibbs, Phelps, Peck, Burges, Abbe, Clary, and the sculptured watch dog of Perkins; turn to the left hand into Cypress Avenue, where the Bible monument of Gray may^ be seen on 19 218 UOSTON AND NIC I MTV. Hibiscus Path, and a little south is the Cojriiswell monu- ment ; then turn to the left, easterly, and near the centre of Central Avenue the monuments of Ht^\\iii>. Tisdale, Buckminster. Cleveland, Lawrence, Ileiwijr, and others ; continue through Cypress Avenue, curving to the south, and there is the public lot. wiiii immcious shafts and me- mentoes to friends, with a singular horizontal slab to the memory of jM. W. B., and a little north-west of the pub- lic lot, on Eglantine Path, is the sculptured figure of Christ blessing little chil(b( ii ; a little to the ea>t of that is the Ford monunicnt. Faith wiih (Ik- Cross, and the Fuller monument. Keturn through the south part of Cypress Avenue, where is a monument to Samuel Story, Jr., on Lupine Path; then turn round to the left, into Cedar Avenue, leading to the north, whcie are monuments to Gridley, Ilayward, Benjamin, and others ; continue to the right hand, through part of Cypress Avenue, to Cen- tral Avenue, passing the statue of Bowditch, and view the monument to the ollicers lost in the ex])loring e\]tedition, and others, after whicli a return to the gate on the north may be made direct." A short distance from the cemetery, in Watertown, is the ITniteu States Arsenal. It stands on the banks of the Charles River, a short distance below the village, contains a large amount of munitions of war, and co\ers forty acres of ground. CHAPTER XXV. BUNKER HILL. MONUMENT. STATUp: OF GEN. WARREN. NAVY YARD. STATK's PRISON. HARVARD MONU- MENT. C'harlestown horse-cars can speedily set us down at the foot of Bunker Hill, where the pride of Britain was once humbled, and her veteran sons, in promiscuous heaps, bit the dust. On the summit of this eminence stands the renowned Monument, towering to the skies, silently saying. Here was the bloody conflict between the oppressor and the oppressed ; there floated the ships of war that vainly thundered with the engines of desolation against the undaunted heroes who, with pickaxe and shovel, upheaved the mounds that were to protect them from the enemy. Ascending one of tlie long flights of granite steps to the gravel walk that leads to the monument, we approach the highest spot of this everlasting hill, of everlasting remembrance. Though once soaked witli the blood of the slain, it is now a beautiful and interesting resort to strangers and travellers. Its pleasingly verdant surface BOSTON AND VICINITY, 221 regularly descends every way to a green hedge that fringes its base, and outside of a broad walk on its four equal sides is a granite and iron fence, of elegant style. Bunker Hill Monument rises, lofty and grand, from the centre of the grounds included within the breastworks of the old redoubt on Breed's Hill. Its sides are precisely parallel with those of the redoubt. It is built of Quincy granite, and is two hundred and twenty-one feet in heio'ht. The foundation is composed of six courses of stone, and extends twelve feet below the surface of the ground and base of the shaft. The four sides of the foundation ex- tend about fifty feet horizontally. There are in the whole pile ninety courses of stone, six of them below the surface of the ground, and eighty-four above. The foundation is laid in lime mortar; ihe other parts of the structure in lime mortar mixed with cinders, iron filings, and Spring- field hydraulic cement. The base of the obelisk is thirty feet square ; at the spring of the apex, fifteen feet. In- side of the shaft is a round, hollow cone, the outside diam- eter of which at the bottom is ten feet, and at the top, six feet. Around this inner shaft winds a spiral flight of stone steps, two hundred and ninety-five in number. In both the cone and shaft are numerous little apertures for the purposes. of ventilation and light. The observa- tory or chamber at the top of the monument is seventeen feet in height and eleven feet in diameter. It has four 19* 222 BOSTON AND vrCIMTY. window.^, one on each side, which are provided with iron shutters. The cap piece of the apex is a single stone, three feet six inches in thickness, and four feet square at its base. It weighs two and a half tons. The monument was dedicated on the 17th of June, 1843, The president of the United States (Mr. Tyler) and his whole cabinet were present, and Daniel "Webster was the orator. Within the colossal obelisk is a beautiful model of Dr. "\Va';t:- n"s Monument, which was romovod to give place to the present one ; and a simple marble slab now only BOSTON AND VICINITY. 223 mai-ks the spot where a patriot fell, as Hon. Edward Everett has beautifully expressed it, " with a numerous band of kindred spirits — the gray -haired veteran, the stripling in the flower of youth — who had stood side by side on that dreadful day, and fell together, like the beauty of Israel in their high places." He was buried where he fell, but his ashes now repose in " Forest Hill Cemetery." In the top ot the monument are two cannons, named respectively " Hancock " and " Adams," which formerly belonged to the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- pany. The " Adams " was burst by them in firing a salute. The fbllowhig is the inscription upon the two guns: — SACRED TO LIBERTY. This is one of four cannons which constituted the whole train of field artillery possessed by the British colonies of North America at the commencement of the war, on the 19th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a number of citizens of Boston, were used in many engagements during the war. The other two, the property of the government of Massachusetts, were taken by the enemy. Though this monument was built to commemorate an important event and a bloody battle, it is also a most lofty observatory. The view from the top, for extent. variety, and beauty, is certainly one of the finest in the world, and worth a thousand miles of travel to see. Bos- ton, its harbor, and the beautiful country around, mottled 2'2A BOSTON AM) VICINITY. with village.^, are .•spread out l.ke a vast painting, and on every side llie eye may re.-t iij-uii ioc-alities of" great his- torical interest — Cambridge, lluxhiay, Clielsea, Quincy, Medtord, Maibleliead. Dorclie-ter, and other phices. In tlie far di.^tanee, on (he north-west, rise the higher peaks uf tlie Wiiite Monntains of New Hampshire; and on tiie r.orth-east the penin.-nhx of Xahant and the more remote (•ape Ann may be seen. Wonders which present science and enterprise are developing and forming ai*e there ex- h^biled in profusion. At one glance from this lofty obser- vatory may be seen several railroads and many other avenues connecting the city with the country ; and ships from almost every region of the glol)e dot the water-; of the harbor. Could a tenant of the old graveyard o)i Copp's Hill, wlio lived a hundred years ago, when the vilhige upon Tri-monntain was fitting out its little armed flotillas against the French in Acadia, or sending ff)rtli its few vessels of trade along the neighboring coasts, or occa- sionally to cross the Atlantic, come forth and stand beside us a moment, what a new and wonderful world would be presented to his vision ! The statue of JM.vjoK-CiKNEHAL Joskpii Warren, by Ilcury Dexter, in a building near tlie nionnment, was iuaugm-ated on the fifth day of Jnne, l.SoJ. It is seven feet liigh, of the best Italian marble, and weiglied in llie block about seven tons. It is draped in the eoistuiuc of UUSTON AXI> VICINITV. 22a the Revolutionary period, the moilel of the artist being a veritable citizeu's suit of Cioveriior Hancock, which has come down to our fjeueration. "The altitude of the figure is highly dignified and imposing. The right hand rests upon a sword, the left being raised as in the act of giving emiihasis to his utterance. The chest is thrown out, the head, wjjich is luicovered, is elevated, and upon the broad brow, and the firm, manly features of the face, thought and soul are unmistakably stamped." Charlestown Navy Yard. This naval depot is situated on the north side of Charles River, on a point •>'2(j HOSroN AM> \ I< IMTY. of land east of tlic centre of the city of Charlestown, ex- tending along the liarbor from the mouth of the Charles to the mouth of tlii' Mystic River. This yard was pur- chased by the United States, under authority of an act of Congress, in the year 180U. The State of Massachusetts, by an act of the legislature of that year, gave its assent to the sale, under certain restrictions. The cost of the whole purchase, including commissions, was about forty thousand dollars. On tin; side next the town the yard is protected by a wall of >tone masonry, sixteen feet high; on the harbor side are several wharves and a dry dock ; except the ap[)roach to these, a sea wall is extended the whole harbor line. This dry dock was authorized by the nine- teenth Congress, commenced 10th July, 1827, and opened for the reception of vessels, 2-1 tli .Tune, 18.13. It is built of beautifidly-liannnered granite, in the most workmanlikt; and substantial manner; is three hundred and forty-one feet long, eighty feet wide, and thirty feet deep, and cost jiboul six lumdi-etl and seventy-five thousand dollars. The tirst vessel (locked after its completion was the frigate Constitution. A little farther off, on their own element, float the old co]ipcr bottoms with two or three decks, and with threatening broadsides and bow and stern chasers ready for the woi-k of destruction, but now passive as so many swans. Tliere an> in (his yard four l-irjro ship houses, various UOSTON AM) VICINITV. 21 1 mochanic shops, storehouses, dwelling houses for the offi- cers, and marine luirijieks, besides an extensive ropewalk of granite. This sti-uetuiv, the finest in the country, is an object worthy the attention of strangers, and w'ill give some idea of the vast amount of expenditure defrayed for public works at this superb naval station. The princij)al building contains in the basement the engine room and boilers; the second story contains the spinning madiinery ; and the " walks," being a quarter of a mile in length, occupy the ground floor. There are, too, in the yard large (piantities of timber and naval stores, exceeding in value two millions of dol- lars. IMore or less shi])s of war are at all times lying htu-e in ordinary. There is a sufficient depth of water ibr the largest ships of war to lie afloat, at all times, at the ends of the wharves. The yard contains within the wall about one hundred acres, and, independent of all buildings and works, the site would now readily command more than a million of dollars. The visitor to the navy yard will find many objects of interest to claim a share of his attention ; and in every department of this great establishment there is a uniform neatness and order, Avhicli are always pleasing, and for which this station is infei'inr to none in the world. Many improvements liave been made in it within a few years. Its general appearance is neat and fit; and for all manu- •22H BOSTON AM) VICINITY. facturing purposes connected witli building and equipping ships of war, perhaps no other yard in the Union offers so great iaeililies. The CiiAKLiiSToWN Static Puison is in tlie form of a cross, having lour wings united to a central octagonal building, one for the superintendent and his family, and three of them for inmates. The kitchen is in the centre octagon building, in the first story ; the supervisor's room is over the kitchen ; the chapel over the supervisor's room ; the hospital over the chapel ; and so good is the arrange- ment, that all areas, apartments, windows, walls, gallerie.', BOSTON AM) \ U IMTV. 2j29 Staircase?, fa>toiiinj;s, oxternal wall>, and external yard walls, except the space outside, at the end of the wings, are under supervision from the centre. If a prisoner breaks out, he only breaks in ; that is, if he escapes from his dormitory into the area, he has still another wall or grating to break, while at the same time he is in sight. The buildings being of stone, the cell floors of stone or iron, the galleries and staircases of iion, and the dooi's and gratings of the same material, render the prison nearly fire-proof, while the whole building is ventilated in the most thorough mannei-, each small room, dormitory, or cell being ])rovided with a ventilator, starting fi*om the floor of th(i same, in the centre wall, and conducted, sepa- rate from every other, to the top of the block, where it is connected with a ventiduct. Both at the top and bottom of the room there is a slide, or register, over orifices open- ing into this ventilator, which are capable of being opened or shut. School rooms, privilege rooms, chapels, private rooms and places, comfortably large single rooms, are provided, in which all kinds of good instruction can be given. The hospital is large, light, convenient, easily accessible, well warmed, and well ventilated. Tli(> separate rooms are so located and distributed, under supervision, from the centre bnilding, that a gentle knock on the inner side of the door •20 ■J'Mi U*).Sr<.)\ ANU VICINITY. of each separate lodging room can be heard by the person on dnty in tlie central room tor t;upervision and care, and relief be immediately j)rocured, if seized by sickness. Large provision is made of tloors and space for employ- ment, under cover, with good and sufficient light, conven- ience, ar.d supervision. In many old buildings there has not been employment, because there was no place suitable for it. Tiiis diliiculty has received great consideration, and every cttbrt has been made entirely to remove it, so that all the imnates of these buildings should be kept out of idleness, which is the mother of mischief. Labor is favorable to order, discipline, instruction, reformation, health, and self-support. But there can be but little pro- ductive industry without a place for it. A visit to the Avork rooms, comjirising the i-lioc making, whip making, cab- inet making, stone cutting, black? mithing, upholstering, and other departments, generally pleases the visitor, and calls forth encomiums for the stillness, order, and cleanliness observed. The MoNiMEXT erected to the memory of John Har- vard is situated on the top of the hill in the old graveyard near the state prison, in Charlesto\\Ti. It was erected by the subscriptions of the graduates of Harvard University. It is con.-:tnicted of granite, in a solid shaft of fifteen feet elevation, and in the simplest style of ancient art. On the eastern lace of the shaft the name of John Harvard BOSTON AND VICINITV. 231 is inscribed ; also on a marble tablet the following : " On the 26th of September, A. D. 1828, this stone was erected by the graduates of the university at Cambridge, in honor of its founder, who died at Charlestown on the 2Gth of S('j)teinb('r, 1 (J.JS." On the western side of the shaft is an inscription in Latin, of the following purport : " That one who merits so much from our literary men should no longer be without a monument, however humble, the graduates of the University of Cambridge, New England, have erected this stone, nearly two hundred years after his death, in pious and perpetual remembrance of John "i'i'J BOSTON AND VKJINITV. Harvard." At the erection of this monument, the Hon. Edwaid I'^veiett, who is considered one of tlie most ac- com})n.-hed scholars educated at Harvard CoHege, dehv- ered an appropriate and eloquent address. y/l'^«^ CHAPTER XXVI. "WOODLAWN CKMETERY. ROCK TOWKK. WOOD POND. CHELSEA. XETHER- =^^=?5^^, ^a.ai^^«<^ WooDLAWN Cemetery is about four miles noi-th of Boston, and two miles from Chelsea. Horse-cars for Chelsea and Woodlawn leave Scollay's Building, Boston, crossing the ferry at the end of Hanover Street. Chel- 234 BOSTON AND VICINITY. -230 sea Ferry is situated at the eud of Hanover Street, and is cue mile and three-eighths long. The best mode of reaching Woodlawn now is to cross over the Chelsea Bridge or Chelsea Ferry, and after con- tinuing in the main street for a quarter of a mile, to turn off to tiic left into Washington Avenue, which leads directly to the cemetery. By this route the visitor approaches the gate house by Woodlawn Avenue, which is a beautiful curve, rising reg- ularly for a distance of seventeen hundred feet, keeping a width of fifty feet, with sides well planted, and a jet or fountain at its lower extremity. The gate house is a fine Gothic building, fifty-six feet wide, with a high centre arch and two side arches. A lodge adjoins it, and the whole structure has been much admired for its dignity and grace. Near to it stands a rustic well house, embowered in roses and running vines. A few steps inside the gate bring the visitor to a small triangle, where the avenues diverge. Here stands the St. Bernard dog, the emblem of fidelity and affection, and by his side is the wonderful Ginko tree, the form and leaf of which demand notice. On the right, towards the hill, is now seen the Rock Tower, of which a view is presented on the following page. This tower is constructed of rude boulders, with a spiral walk ascending easily to the top. Its base is seventy- 286 BOSTON AM) VICINITV. cijrht feet in diameter, and its altitude about thirty feet. From its summit are seen Lynn, JSaugus, Nahant, tlie sea, bay, and other objects of intere t. When covered with lichens, mosses, ferns, woodbines, and ivy, this ponderous T*:^;: pile will be exceedingly attractive. Eventually it is to r^erve as the base for a high observatory of iron. On the left of Entrance Avenue starts off the beautiful N^etherwood Avenue, through which every one should pass, either entering or returning. Near its junction with Forest Glade Avenue, a few feet from the triangle, tui*n- ing to the right, are seen the receiving tombs, remarkable ii(.»>n)\ AM) VK iMiv. 2."5 7 lor their neatness and repose. I'assing on towards the north, the long vista of Woodside Avenue will appear; and i)assing through this elegant way, the approach to Chapel Hill is marked l;y a beautiful rustic arch, covered with wild grape vine.% and surmounted by a cro^s bearing on one side the inscription, "I am the true vine," and on the other, " Abide in me." In this vicinity are many beautiiid lots and monuments; and near the junction of P'loral and Chajiel Avenues another specimen of the Ginko tree is seen. Near tin- entrance to Cha})el Hill is the lot of John M. Brown, and many others in good taste, which we have not room to specity. But one of the most delightful scenes any where to be found is Nethcrwood Pond, with its line fountains and beautiful arbor, and the tall trees and gentle slopes which surround it. The views from Elm Hill, also, are fine. This cemetery w^ill furnish some of the iinest drives in the vicinity of Boston, and is destined to occupy a high place among the rural beauties of the country. Chelsea is one of the pleasantest of our suburban towns, the sti-eets being broad, and bordered with shade trees, well lighted by gas, and lined with tasteful resi- dences. Among the public buildings in the citv are (he Naval Hospital, and the United-States Mauixe Hos- pital. The latter is a large and substantial brick build- 2.18 BOSTON AN1> VICINITY. iug at the left of the bridge, and with tlie dwelling-house and the grounds around, including nearly the whole hill, be- longs to the United-States Government. The City Hall is a fine large building of brick. The surface of Chelsea is quite undulating, rising in parts to a considerable eleva- tion. The most considerable of these eminences is Powder Horn Hill, about one mile from the ferry, from the summit of which magnificent views may be obtained of Boston, Charlestown, Bunker Hill, Medford, Lynn, Nahant, and Boston Harbor. Mount Bellingham is a lofty hill, com- manding an extensive prospect, and is already nearly cov- ered with elegant private residences. The attractions of the pla''e are so great that numbers of gentlemen doing bu-iness in Boston and elsewhere make their homes in Chelsea. CHAPTER XXVII. CONCORD. LEXINGTON. DORCHESTER HEIGHTS. PERKINS INSTITUTION FOR THE BLIND. Concord and Lexington may be easily reached from the Fitchburg dq)Ot, as Lexington is only eleven miles from Boston, and Concord six miles beyond. The vicinity of these historical places to Boston, and their accessibility by rail or country road, procure them large numbers of visitors during the pleasant months of the year. Boston and its environs abound in mementoes of the rcA'Olution- ary dead; Bunker Hill rises, a sanctified spot forever; llie lieiglits are not yet levelled Avhich once bristled with Washington's cannon, and hastened the evacuation of the town by the British ; and here at Lexington and Concord is the soil that drank the very first blood of the martyrs of liberty — a soil on which the first armed resistance to aggression was attempted. Lexington is a very pretty place, and since the estab- lishment of the branch railroad connecting it with Boston, many of our citizens have availed themselves of the op- portunity of residing in the old historic town. Its area 239 210 HOSTOX AM) VICIMTV. compriserf a great variety of teener}-, and the soil is not ungrateful for the care of the husbaiuhnan. The town is built principally on a broad street, and in about the centre of it is the green on which the monument stands. It is built of granite, and has a marble tablet on the south iront of the pedestal, with the following inscription : — Sacred to the Liberty and the Rights of Mankind ! ! ! The Freedom and Independence of America — sealed and defended with the blood of her sons. This Monmncnt is erected by the Inhabitants of Lexington, under the patronage and at the expense of the Commonwealth of Mas- sachusetts, to the memory of their Fellow-citizens, Ensign Robert Mon- BOSTON AND VICINIXV. 241 roe, Messrs. Jonas Parker, Samuel Hadley, Jonathan Harrington, yr. Isaac Muzzy, Caleb Harrington, and John Brown, of LeSiiit,ton, ;i Asahel Porter, of "VVoburn, who fell on tliis Field, the firs: victims o. the Sword of British Tyranny and Oppression, on the morning of the ever-memorable Nineteenth of April, An. Dom. 1775. The Die was cast ! ! ! The blood of these Martyrs in the Cause of God and their Country was the Cement of the Union of these States, then Colonies, and gave the Spring to the Spirit, Firmness, and Resolution of their Fellow-citizens. They rose as one man to revenge their Brethren's blood, and at the point of the Sword to assert and defend their native Rights. They nobly dared to be Free ! ! ! The contest was long, bloody, and affecting. Righteous Heaven approved the Solemn Appeal ; Vic- tory crowned their Arms, and the Peace, Liberty, and Independence of the United States of America was their glorious Reward. Built in the year 1799. Concord is a pleasant little village, and lies upon th'^. Concord River, one of the chief tributaries of the Merri- mac, near the junction of the Assabeth and Sudbury Rivers. Its Indian name was Musketaquid. On account of the peaceable manner in which it was obtained, by purchase, of the aborigines, in 1635, it was named Con- cord. At the north end of the broad street, or common, is the house of Colonel Daniel Shattuck, a part of which, built in 1774, was used as one of the depositories of stores Avhen the British invasion took place. The Monument at Concord stands a short distance from the road leading into the town, upon land given for the purpose by Rev. Dr. Ripley. The river runs at the 21 242 nOSTON AND VICINITY'. foot of the mound on which it stands. It is built of Carlisle granite, and the following inscription is engraved on a marble table inserted in the eastern face of the ped- estal : — r Here, On the 19th of April, 1775, was made the first forcible resistance to BiuTiSH Aggression. On the opposite bank stood the American militia, and on this spot the first of the enemy feU in the War of the Revolvtion, which gave Independence to these United States. In gratitude to God, and in the love of Freedom, This Monument was erected, A. D. 1836. ItOSTON AND VICINITY'. 243 The view is from the green shaded lane which leads from the highway to the monument, looking westwaiv]. The two trees, standing one upon each side, without the iron railing, were saplings at the time of the battle ; be- tween them was the entrance to the bridge. The monu- ment is reared upon a mound of earth, a few yards from the left bank of the river. A Uttle to the left, two rough, uninscribed stones from the field mark the graves of tho two British soldiers who were killed and buried upon the spot. To reach South Boston from Boston we take the horse- cars, and arc landed in a very short time at Dorchester Heic/hts, which were occupied by Washington and his troops on the night of March 4th, 1776, and by ten o'clock two forts were formed, one towards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Preparations were made for an attack by the British, and for defence by the Americans ; but the weather prevented the designs of the former, and they embarked for New York. Few visit Boston witliout a view of the spot that once bristled with bayonets, or the lines of the fortifications thrown up so speedily by the Continentals. Here, also, stands the Perkins Institute for the Blind. It is open to the public on the afternoon of the first Sat- urday in each month ; but in order to prevent a crowd, no persons are admitted without a ticket, Avhich may be ifii llO^iON AND VICINITY. obtained gratuitou.-ly at No. 20 Bromtield Street. A lim- ited number oi strangers, and persons particidariy intei*- ested, may be admitted any Saturday in the forenoon by previously api)lying as above for tickets. The pupils in the school are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, histor}', natural philosophy, natui-al 0"""!)=f^ history, and physiology. They are carefully instructed in the theoiy and practice of vocal and instrumental music. Besides this they are taught some handicraft work by which they may earn their livelihood. In this institution, for the first time m the world's history, successful attemnts liOSTOX AND VIOINITV. 24;') were niatle to break through the double walls in which blind deaf niute.s are innmired, and to teach them a sys- tematic kujjiu.age lor cumnumioii with their fellow-men. Laura Bridgman and Oliver Caswell are living refutations of the legal and popular maxim thai those who are born both deaf and blind must be necessarily idiotic. They are pioneers in the way out into the light of knowledge, wliieh may be followed by many others. In 1844 a supplementary institution grew out of the parent one, for the employment in han-.licraft work of such blind men and women as could not leadily hnd employ- ment at home. This establishment has been highly suc- cessful. A spacious and convenient workshop has been built at South Bo-ton, to which the work men and women repair every day, and are furnished with work, and paid all they can earn. The general course and history of the Perkins Institu- tion has been one of remarkable success. It has always been under the direction of one person. It has grown steadily in public fiivor, and is the means of extended use- fulness. In 1832 it was an experiment; it had but six pupils ; it was in debt, and was regarded as a visionary enierprise. In 1833 it was taken under the patronage of the state ; it was patronized by the wealthy, and enabled to obtain' a permanent local habitation and a name. The terms of admission are as follows : the childi'en of 21* 2-JU BO.^iON VNK VK.'IMTV. citizens of Massachusetts not absolutely wealthy, fnc ; others at the rate of one hundred and sixty dollars a year, which covers all expenses except for clothing. Applicants must be under sixteen years of age. Adults are not received into the institution proper, but they can board in the neighboihood, and be taught trades in the workshop gratuitously. After six months they arc put upon wages. This department is a self->u]iporting one, but its success depends upon the sale of goods at the depot, No. 20 Brom- field Street. Here may be found the work of the blind — all warranted, and put at the lowest market prices; nothing being asked or expected in the way of cliaiity. The institution is not rich, except in the confidence of the public and the pati'onage of the legislature CHAPTER XXVIII. NAHANT. Stranger, if you would visit one of the raost pleasant and delightful watering places in the world, seat yourself in the cars, be landed at Lynn, take passage in one of the stages that leave almost hourly, and when deposited in Nahant- take your Guide's word for it- you will bless your stars, and thank him. Here, isolated from the noise, 249 2.')0 BOSTON AND VICINITT, and hoar, and bustle of the city, you may wander by the liour on tlie rocks, and watc-Ii the liquid chisel of the sea t!t its unwearied task upon the lihie and slaty substance of the crajjs. Atom l)y atom they yield to the muscular swing of the billows, worn and })olis!ied by their frothy edges, — the toughest erration eontjuered by the softest, and the noise of this constant scui])ture is the music of the world. The rocks are torn into sncii varieties of f)rin, and the beaclies are so hard and smooth, that all the beauty of wave motion and the whole gamut of ocean eloquence are offered here to the eye and ear. The soil swash of the lighter waves upon the sloping sand; the bellow of the l)rrakers that are driven into tlic rifts and caverns where the sunlight never strays ; the gurgle of the waters as they i-un back I'rom out the cold chambers of darkness ; the da-h of an irregular roller u[ion the rough front of the l)altli'ments ; the fulK majc tie bass of a billow that charges the rocks in ))lum('d order; tiie heavy thump of tlie waves upon the ibundation of the rocks, waking a muffled moan, as from the earth's weary heart; and all the si)lendors which the ocoan offers to the eye — the scattering of creamy foam over the pebbly beach, and the dying of its whiteness into the gloomy bronze of the dark seaweed ; the sparkle of the frolicking froth in the sun ; the curl of the solemn rollers, and the bewitching green bOSTON AND VJCIMJV. 251 of their crests, as they bend just before they tumble in music; all the loveliness imd majesty of the ocean are displayed around the jagged and savage-browed cliffs of Nahant. This Harrt)\v jiromontory, which runs out from Lynn Beach, is crowned with charming gardens, cottages, and villas, and rests like an emerald in its sparkling and fretted framework of brilliants. AVhile the rocks present every variety of color, the cliffs are pierced by fissures, caverns, and grottos so numerous that the visitor stands in awe ; and the shell-crowned beaches of shining, silvery sand are so i^mooth and hard that they take no impress of the steed's hoof or the rolling wheel ; and as the mind does not seem capable of containing all, follow the Guide, and view each object separately. Turning to the left of NaHxVNT Beach, over which we have just come, a vast fissure in the cliff, forty feet in depth, is seen, bearing the name of John's Peril. At the distance of three fourths of a mile from where we '2i^'2. BOSTON AND VICINITY. Stand, Egg Rock rises abruptly from the sea to the hei;iht of eighty -six feet. Its sliape is oval, and on its summit the gulls (U'[)osit their eggs in abundance, whence it takes its name.* Passing the luox JMi:>K, (a huge black ledge,) we reach Thk Spouting Hokn. Here the water, after being driven through a rocky tunnel one hundred feet in length into a deejj cavern, is spouted forth in wild sheets of foam and si)ray, while the Atlantic's billows seem to jar the solid rocks with thundering sound, and shake the very crags that dare to stay their onward pi'ogress. Pass- ing Saindp'.ks's Lkdge, we reach Castle Rock. The Imttlements, buttresses, turrets, and embrasures of an ancient castle ere sc faithfully rep • * A UL'lit hou-ii' has been erpctpd on this rock. BOSTON AND VICINITY^ 2r)3 resented by this immense pile of rocks, that one almost waits for tiie warden's challenge or the trumpet's blast and expects to see the square openings (so like doors mid windows) peopled with armed men. In Caldkon Cliff the water boils with tremendous force and fury during great storms ; and in Roaring Cavern the sound is distinctly heard. Crossing Natu- ral Bridge, we may see the varying tides and jagged rocks full twenty feet below us, and we reach PuLi'iT Rock, a huge mass of stone nearly twenty feet square, and rising full thirty feet above the yeasty billows. The upper portion of the rock bears a sti-iking resem- blance to a pile of books, with a seat opening in their 22 K>A BOSTON AND VICINITr. midst ; but the steepness of the crag renders the ascent very ditRcuh, as the road to knowledge always has been found to be. -.j^ Swallows' Cavf, is a passage eight feet high, ten wide, and seventy-two feet in length, opening into the sea. Formerly the swallows inhabited this cave in great num- bers, and built their nests in the irregularities of the rocks above ; but the multitude of visitors has frightened them away. Continuing on our way, we reach BOSTON AND VICINHV. 255 Iiikxe's Grotto, a tall arch, grotosque juid beautiful, leading to a large room in the rock, and one of the great- f^st curiosities on Nahant. Near by is the Steamboat Wharf. The cut at the head of this chapter (page 249) is a representation of the hotel forinei'ly standing at East Point, Nahaut, which was ])r()l>ably the largest hotel iu America, the carpeted floors covering an area of nearly four acres ; nine miles of wire being required to connect the bells with the annunciator ; and the whole of the immense establishment lighted with gas manufactured on the premises. It was built in the year 1824, and was purchased in the year 1853 of the then pi'oprietor, Phiu- ehas Drew, by four gentlemen of Lynn, and by tliem re- modelled and greatly enlarged, and for several years was 256 BOSTON AND VICINITY. occupied by the Avell-known landlonl, Paran Stevens, du- ring which time Nahaut was one of the most popular wateriug-phiccs in tlie United »States. The Iiotel was entirely desti'oyed by hie in September, 18C1, since which time no hotel has been erected on its site. A hotel, smaller but eoinniotlioiis. kept by Albert Whitney, has been the resort ot" travellers for some thirty years ; and a number of boardinir-hoiises afford accommodation to the many visitors who annually sj)end a portion of the sum- mer at this ])leasaiit resort. The peninsula is dotted over Avith the cottages of li<»ston merchants, who early sought this charming spot, where they find coolness and quiet during the warm season. The proximity of Nahant to Boston, and the excellent facilities which there usually ai"e for getting there, render it one of the most desirable places for a summer residence to be found upon the whole New-England coast. We cannot better finish our description of this match- less watering place than by the following, from the pen of the late Alonzo Lewis, of Lynn, a gentleman well known to the literary world. " The temperature of Nahant, being moderated by sea breezes, so as to be cooler in summer and milder in winter than the main land, is regarded as being highly conducive to health. It is delightful in summer to I'amble round this romantic [wninsula. and to examine at leisure its in- UO.STON .VN1> VUINITV. 2'i)7 leresting curiosities — to lieai' the waves rippling (he col- ored i)ebbles of the beaches, and see them glidini; over the pi-ojecting ledges in fanciful cascades — to beliold the plovers and sandpipers nuuiing along the beaches, the seal slumbering u])on the outer rocks, the white gulls soar- ing ovei-hcad, the porpoises pursuing their rude gniubols along the shore, and the curlew, the loon, the black duck, and the coot, the brant, with his dappled neck, and the oldwife, with her strange, wild, vocal melody, swimming gracefully in the coves, and rising and sinking with the swell of th(^ tide. The moonlight evening- here are ex- ceedingly lovely; and the plios])horic rad-ance of the bil- lows, on favorable nights, (making the waters look like a sea of fire,) exhibits a scene of wonderful beauty. " But. however delightful Xahant may appear in sum- mer, it is surpassed by the grandhing into the rough goi'ges — thundering in the subterranean caverns of rocks, and throwing the whiti; ioam and spray, hke vast columns of smoke, hundreds of feet in the air, above the tallest ciifls — an appearance is presented which the wildest unagination cannot surpass. Then the ocean — checked in its headlong career by a simple bar of sand — as if 22* "258 BOSTON AXU VICrNITY. mad with its detention, roars like protracted thunder; and the wild sea birds, borne along by the furious waters, are dashed to death against the cliffs. Standing at such an hour upon the rocks, I have seen the waves bend bars of iron an incli in diameter double, float rocks of granite six- teen feet in length, as if they were timbers of wood, and the wind, seizing the white gull in its irresistible embrace, bear her, shrieking, many miles into Lynn woods. In summer a day nt Nahant is delightful ; and a .storm in winter is glorious, but terrible." Maolis. — Mr. Tudor, known as tlio iec-king, from his enterprise* in supplying many portions of the globe with ice from ^Massachusetts, set apart from his extensive possessions this beautiful spot for parties of pleasure, who resort thither, in summer, in large numbers, from the neigh- boring towns and cities. He selected its fanciful name, IIOSTUX AND VICINITY. 259 Siloum reversed, from the health-giviug property of its t!ea-baths, to be enjoyed in the grottos and recesses of its shores. Money has been profusely expended in mason, shell, and pebble work, statuary, fountains, swings, and other contrivances for amusement ; and the crowd that resort there on pleasant days proves it to have been well laid out. The grounds comprise about twenty acres, and border several hundred feet upon the sea. They com- mand a superb view of P^gg Rock, Little Nahant, Lynn, Swampscott, and Phillips' Beach ; and of a summer noon- day, as the eye ranges over the gleaming waters to the graceful headlands peering in the distance, it takes in a .scene, which, once enjoyed, will ever be remembeied wi.li dcliu:ht. CHAPTER XXIX. nOSTOM HARBOR. ISLANDS. FARM SCHOOL. ALMS- HOUSE. FORT INDKPKNDENCE. FOHT WINTHROP. The readiest way of regaining the city is to take passage on board a steamer lying at tlie wharf. The trip occupies only about forty minutes, and is one of 260 BOSTON AXl) VICINITY. 261 the most delightful that can be imagined. Shooting off from the rocky peninsula, and leaving beliind Nahant, ^\llh its enchanting a.s>ociations, we have time, as the little .-teamer goes puffing along, to see the Islands in Boston Harbor ; and il" there are natural beauties, romantic ele- vations, or silent and wild retreats in the vicinity of Bos- ton, they are in the hai-bor. These islands are gradually wearing away ; and where; large herds of cattle once fed, the ocean now rolls its angry billows, and lashes with au overwhchning surge the la.-t remains of earth. We can see the Lower Light, or, farther off, the smoke rising from Hull Nearer by, George's Island, with com- manding Fort Warren upon it, ready to annihilate any intruder ; (this island is the key to the harbor, command- ing tlie o[)(>n sea, and rising in some places nearly fifty feet aboAe high water mark ;) and the rocks of Nix's Mate may be seen, where tradition says a captain was murdered by his mate, and buried. The Lighthouse, and the splen- did building formerly occupied as a hotel, in the form of a Greek cross, and which is often visited by parties who sail down the harbor, show plainly on Long Island. In the rear is Rainaford Island and the Quarantine Gronnd. Not far off are Spectacle and Thompson's Islands. On the latter is situated the Farm School. The objects of the institution are, to rescue from the ill- 262 BOSTON AND VICINITY. and the temptations of povei'ty and neglect those who have been left without a parent's care ; to reclaim from moral exposure those who are treading the paths of dan- ger; and to offer to those whose only training would otherwise have been in the walks of vice, if not of crime, the greatest blessing which New England can bestow upon her most favored sons. The occupations and employments of the boys vary with the season. In spring, summer, and autumn, the lai'ger boys work u])on the garden and farm. Tiie younger boys iiave small gardens of their own, which aiford them recreaiion when released from school. In the winter season most of them attend school, where they are instructed in the learning usually taught in our common schools, and some of them are employed in making and mending clothes and shoes for the institution. The winter evenings are occupied with the study of geog- raphy and the use of globes, botany and practical agri- culture, lecturing on different subjects, singing, and I'eading. Every boy in the institution is recpiired to be present during the evening exercises, if he is able. At the age of twenty-one each boy is entitled to a suit of clothes, and if apprenticed to a farmer, to one hundred dollars in money in addition. The boys are all comfortably chul with wool- Ion clothes, slioes, stockings, and caps, and appear to be a-; ha]ipy in their j^re^-cnt situation as boys generally are under the paternal roof They are well supplied with BOSTON AND VICINITY. 263 books, and requircil to keep them in order, their library eontaining about four hundred volumes of well-selected books. Oi)i)ortunities are oceasionally offered to the friends of boys at the institution of visiting them on the island in the summer months. On the long promontory in the rear is Squantum, the very name of whieh is sufficient to conjure up ideas of chowders, fishing {)arties, &c. We shoot past Dver Maitd, on which stands the Alms- HOUSK. The form of this structure is that of a " Latin cross," having its four wings radiating at right angles from a " central building." The central building is four stories high ; the lower story (on a uniform level with the cellars or work rooms of the north, east, and west wings) contains the bathing rooms, cleansing rooms, furnace, and fuel rooms ; the two next stories contain the general guard room, to be used also as a w^ork room ; the next story is the chapel; and the upper story is the hospital. The south wing is four stories high ; the lower one contains the family kitchens and entry of the superintendent's family ; the second is appropriated for the family parlors of the superintendent, and a room for the use of the directors, together with the entrances and staircases, and the opening or carriage wny for receiving the paupers. The staircases communicating with the guard room, and with the cleans- ing rooms in the lower story of the central building, are 264 BOSTON AND VICINITV. also located in this story. The two remaining stories ?a'e used for the family sleeping rooms, superintendent's ofiice, officers' rooms, and bathing rooms, together with the entries, passages, closets, and staircases. Each of the north, east, and west wings is three stories high, with base- ments and attics over the whole surface of each wing. The basements are for work rooms. The remaining stories, includhig the attics, contain tlie wards, hospitals, and day rooms lor the inmates, together with the sk-eping and inspection rooms for the nurses and attendant.-. There is a chapel, with a gaileiy, occupying seventy-five by seventy-five feet, on the third floor of the central build- ing, equal in height to two stories. The floor of the chapel is on a level with the attic floors of the wings. It is well lighted, in a central position, of convenient access from all parts of the establishment, and is commodious enough for those who are able to attend religious woi*- ship, out of even a larger population than twche hundred. The paupers, as they arrive, are received at a central point, under the eye of the superintendent, in his office, as they approach ; thoroughly cleaned, if necessary, in the basement central a])artments for cleansing; and distrib- uted, when ])r('parcd for distribution, to those parts of the building assigned to the classes to which they belong. As the channel narrows, we pass between Castle and Winthrop Islnnfls. On the former stands Fort Inpk- BUsTUN AND VICINITY. 2G5 PENDENCE. The following is the quaint description of the Castle as it was first built : " The Castle is built on the North-East of the Island, upon a rising hill, very advan- tageous to make many shots at such ships as shall offer to enter the Harbor, without their good leave and liking; the Commander of it is one Captain Davenport, a man approved for his faithfulness, courage, and skill, the Mas- ter Canoneer is an active Ingineer ; also this Castle hath * cost about four thousand pounds, yet are not this poor pil- grim people weary of maintaining it in good repair ; it is of very good use to awe any insolent persons, that putting confidence in their ships and sails, shall offer any injury to the people, or contemn their Government ; and they have certain signals of alarums, which suddenly spread through the whole country." By these alarums is meant the can- non and beacon light upon the great natural pinnacle of Beacon Hill. It was afterwards rebuilt with pine trees and earth. In a short time this also became useless, and a small castle was built, with brick walls, and had three rooms in it ; a dwelling room, a lodging room over it, and a gun room over that. The erection of this castle gave rise to the present name of the island. At one time there was like- wise a strong building erected on the island for the recep- tion of convicts whose crimes deserved the gallows, but by the lenity of the government had their punishment 28 ;(3G BOSTON AND VICIMTY. changed. Here abode the celebrated Stephen Burrongh'. This island belongs to the United States, by which Foi t Lidependence has been erected on the castle ruins. On the west side of the wall a tombstone stands, beneath which sleeps the good old Edward Pursley, whose spirit, BOSTON AND VICINn'Y. 267 we ti-ust, has spent nearly a century in heaven. There is likewise an ancient slab, small, of red sandstone, bearing the name of Nathaniel Ely, but no date, and, stranger to relate, no epitaph ! But turning the western flank of a battery that fronts on the channel towards the city, Ave be- hold a different monument, each of whose four faces bears an inscription. Here, the name — an otficer of U. 8. Light Artillery ; there, that the stone is erected by the officers of his regiment; on the third side, that he fell near the spot ; and on the fourth, the distich from CoUins's beautiful ode : — " Here Honor comes, a pilgrim gray, To deck the turf that wraps his clay." Here we may observe the wonderful beauty of the har- bor, with its cities on land, and its steeple-pointed ship- ping, in the midst of which sit so lovely the flocks of graceful and motionless islands. Governor's Island lies about one mile north of Castle Island, and was first called Conant's Island. It was de- mised to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and for many years after was called the Governor's Garden. Here the United States government is building a fortress called Fort Win- throp. Its situation is very commanding, and in some respects superior to Castle Island. It is a pleasing occupation, as we glide along, to watch •2(J8 BOSTON AND VICINITY. the outward-bound vessels, their canvas first becoming dim as tliey tend towards the distant horizon, and finally blotted out in the misty obscurity of the sea distance. The imagination loves to follow them in their flight, and picture their adventures on that vast watery expanse whose daily history is full of marvel, and Avhose dark depths shroud mysteries never to be unfolded to mortal ken. Few visitors, after landing at Liverpool Wharf, (once, under the title of " Griffin's Wharf," so celebrated for the waste of English tea that occurred there,) do not cherish the most pleasing reminiscences of their visit to Nahant and sail up Boston Harbor. CHAPTER XXX. BLACKSTONE SQUARE. — FRANKLIN SQUARE. 'WILLIAMS MARKET. FOREST HILLS CEMETERY. Forest Hills Cemetery is situated between Norfolk and Bristol Turnpike, Walk Hill, Canterbury, and Scar- borough Streets, in Roxbury. It may be reached from the Providence Depots or by horse cars ; but it will be found more pleasing to go by horse cars, and return in the steam cars. As the car rolls along, we can catch a hasty view of Williams Market, of the high stone walls of the Cemetery^ and of Blackstove, Fran]di?i, and Worces- ter Squares, and Chester Park. The former {Blackstone Square) on the west side of Washington Street, beyond No. 773, containing one hun- dred and five thousand feet of land, and now laid out with young trees, is an ornament to this portion of the city. The fence is constructed of iron, and lias a length of thirteen hundred feet, tlie cost of which was five thousand dollars. Of this sum, two thousand dollars were contributed by the property holders or residents around the square. or* 269 1*70 BOST(.>N AND VrciMTV. Franklin Square is opposite Blackstone Square, and contains the same quantity of ground, and is improved in the same style as tlie former. A Cochituate fountain is provided in the centre of each square, at a cost of seven hundred and fifty dollars each, exclusive of the pipe and vase. A hasty glance is all we catch of fine dwellings and beautiful gardens, as we ]>ass raj)idly tln-ough Roxbury. But at length we ai'rive at the Cemetery, the description of which (by permission of Mr. Crafts) we are allowed to borrow from " The Guide to Forest Hills," of which he is the author. KOsnjN AM> VK.'IXITY. 271 The approaches to Forest Hills from all sides are through plea.-^aiit and quiet roads, by well-cultivated lands, delightful rural residences, or by the wilder beauties of unadorned nature. In the season of verdure and flowers, few more agreeable drives can be Ibnnd in the vicinity of lioston than tlnuugh the streets and avenues that lead to the cemetery. There are beautiful views in every direc- tion from the elevated grounds, and in the valleys or the woods many a nook may be observed where cottages may nestle, while all around are springing up elegant villas, and pleasant grounds mark the progress of taste and relinenient. But from no direction is the cemetery notice- able at a)iy distance, except perhaps on the south-eastern side. It is shut out from the world, a calm retreat, though near the rapid tide of life. The main entrance to the cemetery is reached from the highway, Scarborough Street,'*by a broad avenue, which curves up a gentle ascent, till it reaches the gateway. As it approaches the gateway, this avenue is divided by a group of trees, but unites again directly in front of the entrance. The gateway at this entrance is of somewhat imposing dimensions, the whole structure having a front of one hundred and sixty feet. The carriage way is through an Egyptian portico, copied from an ancient por- tico at Garsery, on the Upi)er Kile. On each side, a lit- tle removed, are smaller gates for pedestrians, and near BOSTON A\u viciNirr. 273 tliese are ftinall lodges corresponding with the gateway in I'jtoii the outfM- architrave of the gateway are inscribed, ill golden letters, the words, — "THOUGH I WALK THUOVGII THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF DEATH I WILL FEAR NO EVIL." On the interior architrave, in the same kind of letters, are the words, — " I AM THE KESURRECTION AND THE LIFE." Consecrated June 28. 1848. The gateway and lodges are built of wood, painted and sanded in imitation of Jersey sandstone. There are other entrances on the southern and eastern sides of the cemetery. On the southern side the cemetery grounds do not extend to any public street, but an avenue thirt}-three feet wide is laid out from Walk Hill Street to the boundary of the cemetery, where there is an entrance through a gate supported by Egyptian piers. This avenue is shaded on each side by thickly-growing evergreens, and from it the visitor enters at once upon one of the most beautiful i)arts of the cemetery. From the main entrance three avenues diverge towards different parts of the cemetery, that on the right, however, being designed to open into lands which have not yet been r.O.STOX ANU VICIXITV. added to the grounds. Chestnut Avenue, which leads to the left, passes over a gentle elevation, and thence thiough the vale of Lake D<'11 towards Consecration Hill. On the riirlit hand of this avenue, before reachinji Lake Dell, rises a rocky eminence, called Snowjlake Cliff', from a beautiful wild ))]ant which grows at its base. From the summit of tliis rock there is a beautiful view of the villa of Jamaica Plain, and of the wooded bills of Brookline and the country beyond. Lake Dell is a natural pool, thickly overshadowed by trees which grow fioni its banks. On either side an ave- nue is laid out, and from these the wooded hills rise, en- closing a most quiet and beautiful dell, suggesting the name of the pond. From the eastern end of Lake Dell, Magnolia Avenue leads to the summit of Consecration Jlill, which rises in an angle of the cemetery, and touches its northern and eastern boundaries. As its name indicates, the consecra- tion services were performed here, at the loot of its south- ern slope, while the audience which was gathered there on that day were ranged upon the hill side. Consecration Hill is one of the highest of the Forest Hills, and from its summit is a beautiful prospect. Through the vistas of the trees there are charming views of the Blue Hills and the intervening valley, and in other directions of hills and plains, of farm houses, villas, and cottages, with here and there a church spire rising above the distant woods. Following Rock IMaple Avenue, the visitor is led from the eastern end of Lake Dell around the base of Mount Warren, which rises on the right, for the most part regu- larly but steeply, with here and there large boulders pro- truding above the surface. The side of Mount Warren is clothed with a thick growth of wood, and this avenue, in y/G UOSTON AND VICINITY. (he afternoon especially, lies in deej) shadow under the foliage. Curving around the foot of the hill, it is a pleas- a:it approach to some of the more attractive spots in the cemetery, and leads directly to the jileasant dell at the foot of Mount Dearhorn and Fountain Ilill. In this dell there is a little nook, which seems almost a grotto under the IIOSTON AND VICXXITY. 277 o\erlianging foliaG;e of trees and shrubs fliat grow on the precipitous sides of Fountain HilL The deep shadows seem to spread a refreshing coolness around, and invite one to rest on the garden scats, which are disposed on one side, while on the other is a rustic fountain — a natural spring, over which is erected a covering of rough stones. The stones are clothed with lichens, and in the interstices are planted moss, brakes, and other wild plants, the whole forming a pretty rustic monument. (Jn the upper stone is fixed a bronze plate bearing the following words : — *' WHOSOEVEll URINKETH OF THIS WATEU WILL THIIIST AGAIN : BIT THii WATEU THAT I SHALL GIVE WILL BE IN HIM A WELL OF WATER SPRINGIXG UP INTO EVERLASTING LIFE." From this vicinity two avenues lead up, through natural depressions, to the higher plain of the cemetery, one on each side of Mount Dearborn. The eastern side of this hill is very rough and precijjitous, huge boulders being piled one above another, in fantastic shapes, clothed with shrubbery which grows in the fissures of the stones, and sliaded by trees which have found root beneath them. From the Fountain Dell a steep path leads up the southern side of IMount Dearborn, and then up its more gentle western slope to the top. As seen from the plain on tlie west of the hill, it appears to be only a slight ele- vation, but it rises to a considerable height above the low '24 27.S BOSTON AND VICINITY. land on the opposite side. On the summit is the monu- ment erected by his friends and fellow-citizens as a tribute to the memory of General Dearborn. The prospect from this hill is not very extensive, but glimpses may be had of some of the most finished and beautiful portions of the cemeterv. liOSTOX AND VICINITY. l'7i) From the dell which divides Mount Dearborn from Mount Wurren an avenue leads, by a somewhat steep ascent, to the top of the latter, which is, in fact, rather fable land than a hill. The i)rospect from Mount Warren is more limiied than that from some of the otlicr hills, owing to the growth of the trees wluch skirt its sides. But here and there, through the trees, a distant picture of rural scenery may be seen, or a nearer one of some beautiful si)ot in the cemetery, with the marble monuments gleaming among the foliage and flowers. The burial lot of the Warren family is on the summit of Mount Warren. The ashes of General Warren, with oihers of the family, have recently been taken from their original resting place, deposited in urns, and reinterred in this lot; so that these grounds are in fact the shrine which contains his sacred remains. The Eliot Hills, which take their name from the apostle Eliot, are four eminences in the south-western part of the cemetery ; or, more correctly, there is but one hill, having several small ridges or undulations near its summit. The summit of this hill is of solid rock. Here it is proposed to erect a monument to commemorate the virtues and labors of the devoted Eliot, who for nearly sixty years was tlie pastor of the First Church in Roxbury, who, ^\dth so much of self-sacrifice and untiring energy, sought 2.S0 BOSTON AND VICIMTT. to civilize and Christianize the savage, and who so truly earned the noble title of "Apostle to the Indians." On the south of Mount Dearborn is another elevation of al)oiU the same height, which is called Fountain Hill, from the spring at its base, betbre alluded to. On the side of the Fountain Dell this hill is very precipitous, and thickly covered with trees and underwood. The eastern and south-eastern slopes are (piite steep, but nuich less rugged and jtrecipitous. Down its sides paths lead to Fountain Dell and towards Lake Hibiscus, which can be seen gleaming through the ibliage. Towards the south a path of more gentle descent, overlooking the lake, leads down to the grounds in the vicinity of the Field of Mach- pelah. For a ]iortion of the distance, the outer side of this path is supported by a rough wall, through which alitor v'itiB and other trees have been made to grow, the roots being planted below the wall. These trees, w'hen they shall attain a larger growth, will add much to the picturesque beauty of this hill side. Into this portion of the cemetery the southern entrance opens, and in the vicinity of the gateway the pine grove retains more of its original solemn beauty. Down the avenue wliicli leads irom this gateway to Walk Hill Street, with its thick evergreens, is a view through the long vista which is sure to attract the eye. Cypress Hill, which is the first elevation on the open H06T0N ANU VICINJ 1 V. 2« I portion of the cemetery, immediately overlooks the quiet plain of " Canterbury," and a portion of the neighboring cemetery of Mount Hope. On the opposite side there are views of different portions of the cemetery grounds. There are but few trees on this hill, except those recently planted ; but there is a quiet charm about the spot, even in its openness and want of shade, so favorable for the distant prospect, that makes it one of the attractive local- ities of the cemetery. East of Cypress Hill extend the open grounds, presenting an undulating surface — gentle swells of land, which gradually descend to the fertile plain near the eastern boundary. Lake Hibiscus, already an attractive feature, promises to be one of the chief beauties of Forest Hills. It lies a short distance east of Fountain Hill, and is approached by avenues from different parts of the cemetery. In it two islands have been formed, one of which contains a copious and never-failing spring of crystal w^ater, which gushes up through the pebbly bottom of a little basin. About the island birches are planted, and willows are trained across the rustic bridge by which it is reached. This island is a favorite resort for visitors, who gather here to watch the graceful swans and the snowy ducks, as they sail about their domain. The beautiful swans, especially, are always objects of interest, and ore quite ready to meet .their vis- itors, and receive food from their hands. From them the 24 * 282 BOSTON AND VKJINITY. Other island, which is hirger than that containing the spring, takes its name, and to their use it is to be appropriated. The numerous boulders which are scattered over some parts of the cemetery have not only added to the pictu- resque character of its scenery, but have afforded an op- portunity for rustic ornament in laying out the grounds bOSTON ANU VKJINITY. 2^:^ Some of the most striking and pictiiic (\iw rocks liave been suffered to remain in their natural state, the hibor of art going only so far as more clearly to develop their beauty, and to adorn the grounds around. One of the most picturesque grou])s of these rocks is on the lot of General William II. Sumner, called Sumner Hill, on the western slope of Mount Warren. They have not suffered by the hand of art, and the lot is one of the most beauti- ful and appropriate in the whole cemetery. The number of monuments at Forest Hills, compared Avith the number of lots which have been taken, is small. In this respect it presents a contrast with INlount Auburn, wher» that cemetery was in the early period of its exist- ence. There, monuments were erected on a large propor- tion of the lots first taken ; in many cases before the lots were enclosed, and before interments had been made in them. At Forest Hills, from the first, the erection of monuments seems to have been the exception rather than the rule. A large number of the lots are enclosed, and the name of the proprietor is borne ujion the gate, with- out any monumental structure or stone. Even where interments have been made, the grave is in many cases adorned with fiowers, or is marked by a simple slab or scroll, but has no more ostentatious stone to bear the in- scriptions which sorrow sometimes places over the beloved and the good. It is a simpler custom, perhaps less attrac- 284 BOSTON AM> VM'INITV. live to the eye of some observers, but quite as impressive to the heart of him " who wanders through these solitudes In mood contemplative." Such is a brief outline of some of the scenery and beauties of Forest Hills, designed to lead the reader to those places where the beauties may be seen, rather than to desci'ibe them. The eye of taste will find much to ob- serve that has not here been mentioned, and in nearly all parts of the cemetery objects and views which will attract and delight. Time, too, must create much that will add to the attractions of tlie place. But, even now, it needs only a visit to see and to feel that Foiest Hills, in tlicir natural and artificial beauty and fitiu'ss, are not surpassed by any other rural or garden cemetery. ADDENDA. The rates of fare in the city of Boston, to be taken by or paid to the owner or driver of any licensed carriage, are as follows : — For carrying a passenger from one place to another, within the city proper, fifty cents. For children between three and twelve years of age, if more tnan one, or if accompanied by an adult, half price only is charged for each child ; and for children under three years of age, when accompanied by then- parents, or any adult, no charge is made. Every driver or owner of any licensed carriage is obliged to carry with each passenger one trunk, and a valise, saddle bag, carpet bag, portmanteau, box, bundle, basket, or other article used in travelling, if he be requested so to do, without charge or compensation therefor ; but for every trunk or other such article as above named, more than two, he ia entitled to demand and receive the sum of five cents. 286 286 ADDKNDA. DISTANCES IN BOSTON FROM THE EXCHANGE, IN STATE STREET. To the Providence Depot, three quarters of a mile ; the Worcester and Old Colony Depots, two thirds of a mile ; the Boston and Maine Depot, one third of a mile ; the Lowell Depot, two thirds of a mile ; the Eastern Depot, half a mile ; Bunker Hill Monument and Navy Yard, one and a quarter miles ; Roxbury, two and a half miles ; Chelsea, two miles ; Cambridge bridge, three (juarters of a mile ; Harvard University, three and a half miles ; Mount Auburn, four and a half miles ; Fresh Pond, five miles ; East Boston, one and one third miles ; Mount Washington and Dorchester Heights, South Boston, two miles ; House of Reformation, South Boston, two and three quarters miles. Steamers leave Boston — For Eastport, Calais, and St. Johns, N. B. The steamers New Brunswick and New England leave Commercial Wharf. For Gardiner, Hallowell, Richmond, and Bath. Four excellent steamers are nriw ruiinin". ADDENDA. i'K7 For ]}AN<;on and intermediate landings. The steamer Katahdin leaves Foster's Wharf. For Bangor. Inland route, via Portland. The steamer Regulator leaves Portland on arrival of the train that leaves Boston. For HiNGHAM. The steamer Rose Standish leaves Liverpool Wharf. For Nahant. The steamer leaves Liverpool Wharf. For Portland. The steamers Montreal and Lew- I8TON leave India Wharf. From Portland the Grand Trunk Railavay passes through Falmouth, Cumberland, Yarmouth, Yarmouth Junction, North Yarmouth, Pownall, New Gloucester, Cobb's Bridge, Danville Junction, Hotel Road, Empire Road. Mechanic Falls, Oxford, South Paris, North Paris, Bryant's Pond, Locke's Mill, Bethel, West Bethel, Gilead, Shelburne, Gorham. 288 ADDENDA. Berlin Falls, Milan, Stark, Northumberland, Stratford Hollow, North Stratford, Wenlock, Island Pond, Norton, Coaticook, Compton, "Waterville, Lennoxville, Sherbrooke, Windsor, Richmond, Durham, Acton, Upton, Britannia Mills, St. Hyacinthe, Soixante, St. Hilaire, Boucherville Mountain, Charons, Montreal. From Richmond the road running to Quebec passes through Richmond, Danville, Warwick, Ai*thabaska, Stanfold, Somerset, Becancour, Methott's Mill, Black River, Craig's Road, Chaudiere, Point Levi, South Quebec. ADDENDA. 289 The Eastern Railroad luis its depot in Causeway- Street, foot of Friend and Canal Streets, and passes through Somerville, South Maiden, Chelsea, North Chelsea, Lynn, Swampscot, Salem, Beverly, Wenham, Hamilton, Ipswich, Rowley, Salisbury, Newburyport, Seabrook, Hampton, Hampton Falls, North Hampton, Greenland, Portsmouth. The FiTCHBURG Railroad has its depot in Causeway Street, and passes through Somerville. Porter's, Wellington Hill, Waverley, "VValtham, Stony Brook, Weston, Lincoln. Conof)rd, 2.T South Acton, West Acton, Littleton, Groton Junction, Shirley, Lunenburg, Leominster, Fitchburg. 'j:k) ADDKNUA. The Boston am> Maink Railroad, depot at Haymarket Square, passes through iSomerville, Edgeworth, iVIaldcn, Wyoming, Meh'ose, Stoneham, Greenwood, South Reading, Reading, Wilmington, Wilmington Junction, Ballardvale, Andover, Lawrence, North Andover, Bradford, Haverhill, Atkinson, Plaistow, Newton, East Kingston, Exeter, South Newmarket, P. and C. Junction, Newmarket, Durham, Madbury, Dover, Rollinsford, Great Falls, Salmon Falls, South Berwick, Portland. The Boston and Lowell Railroad, having its depot in Causeway Street, passes through East Cambridge, Milk Row, Somerville. Somerville Centre, Willow Bridge, AUUENDA. •291 Brancli Road. Medtbrd Step^;, West Medford Symrnes's Bridge, Winchester, Richardson's ■I Horn Pond, Woburn Centre, East Woburn, Woburn Watering Place, North Woburn, Wilminfrton, Billerica and Tewksbnry, Billerica Mills, Bleachery, Lowell, Middlesex Street, Lowell, Lowell. The Om» Colony and Fall Rivkr Railroad, havinp; its depot in Kneeland Street, passes through Savin Hill, Harrison Scpiare, Neponset, North Quincy, Quincy, Braintree, South Braintree, Randolph, North Bridgewater. West Bridgewater, Bridge water, Middleboro', Myrick's, Fall River, South Abington, East Bridgewater, Kingston, Plymouth. Train leaves Myrick's for Fall River on arrival of the train from New Bedford. DoRCHKSTKK AM) MiLTOX Branch trains leave Bos- ton for Granite Bridge, Milton Lower and Upper Mills. 292 AODKNUA. The Boston and Worcester Railroad has its pas- 8en<.aM- stniidii on Bcacli utul Kneeland Streets, and passes througli Canibi-idire Crossing, Framin.'t * •293