F 9oa B88 1^ u m '^^ % m ^.. ,.'V. •\ a''.''."'' '■:''■« 1 ,.,>»«>.«^ir„i^ ■ \ ^^ ^•fiSS.SXrm ■•a^;',^^ ■^ ■>^ > ftfSiiJCaffii.' tf-i*: -<>,>. HE Gold Fields ■■^^ ;€^f|^f^ y.y.s:TRATE.i^, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. An Alaska Indian Girl. ALASKA ITS HISTORY AND RESOURCES GOLD FIELDS ROUTES AND SCENERY MINER W. BRUCE ILLUSTRATED -""^^z'fyfl ^ LOWMAN & HANFORD STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO. SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 1895 Copyrighted 1S95, LowMAN & Hanford Statioxery and Printing Co. Seattle, Washington. 3:- INTRODUCTORY. Zl lyTHOUGH the author cannot undertake within the limits of this volume to deal, in an elaborate way, with the vast and varied resources of Alaska, he is of the opinion that the matter contained in its pages is such as will give the reader an intelli- gent idea of this great territory, its past and present, and the outlook for its future. The contents will be found reliable, and the information touching the leading industries of the country and its resources, including the great Yukon gold fields, which are now commanding attention, has been prepared with care, and with the view of ensuring the greatest possible accuracy. A more complete reference to the Eskimos of Arctic Alaska and the introduction of domesticated reindeer among them can be found in his report to the Bureau of Education at Washington, and his monograph in the census report of 1890, will furnish further information than is here given upon the southeastern portion of Alaska, both of which may be had free upon applica- tion to the respective departments. Six years spent in Alaska, first in the interest of journalism, and later in other pursuits, have enabled him to present an accu- rate and truthful account of his observations concerning the de- velopments of the past few years. The field is large, and already the dawning of great enterprises fills the minds of ambitious projectors. Gold fields are to be opened up, railways built, possibly with a span of communication with the Old World, besides many other projects which will cause the active American brain to vibrate with new vigor. And if the writer can awaken any patriotic sentiment to further and protect the interests of this grand territory, he will be satisfied. He cannot consistently advise those seeking a place to make a home, or those looking for a new field of labor, to choo.se Alaska, unless they have some means, and a reasonable amount of stamina, and good health. To any one possessed of the.se qualifications, he unhesitatingly and unqualifiedl}^ says "Go." He is in earnest when he saj-s that he believes the next few years will present many opportunities for investment, and for laying a foundation for lucrative business enterprises, and, per- haps, wealth. But if any one expects to acquire these without experiencing the hardships and privations incident to pioneer life, he will be disappointed. Minkr W. Bruck. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. HISTORY. Alaska. — Discovered by Vitus Bering, a Dane, in 172S — Mt. St. Elias. — Search of the Spaniards. — Capt. Cook — Vancouver. — Purchase of Alaska in 1867. — Origin of Name — Its Geographical Extent. — The Organic Act. — A Prohibition Country. — Efforts to Secure Congressional Action. CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY. Topography of Alaska. — Verdant Islands. — Two Great Natural Divisions. — Numerous Fiords. — Great Rivers. — Immense Valleys. — Lakes and Tundra. — Mountain Peaks and Volcanoes. — Cape Prince of Wales — Diomede Islands. — Shallow Water at Bering Strait. — Railroad Across the Strait. CHAPTER III. CIJMATE — AGRICUVruRE — FLOR.\. Influence of Japan Current. — Precipitation in the Coast Country. — Average Rainfall. — Healthfulness of Alaskan Climate. — Dense Vegetation. — Cultivation of Root Crops. — Cereals and Grasses — Interior as a Stock Raising Country. — Vegetable Life Rapid in the Far North. — Harvest Closely Follows vSeed Time.— Experimental Agricultural Stations. CHAPTER IV. MINKR.\L AND TIMBER. First Discovery of Gold in Southeast Alaska. — The Great Treadwell Mine. — Progress of Mining. — Rich Deposits of Silver and Galena Ore. — Where Free Milling Ore is P'ound. — Russian Placer Mining in Early Days — A Promising Mining Section. — The Yellow Cedar. — Spruce and Hemlock Abundant. — Timber of the Interior. — Where Bituminous Coal is Found. CHAPTER V. FISHERIES. Immense Salmon Canning Industry — More than One Hundred Varieties of Fish Found in Alaskan Waters. — Capacity of Canneries. — A Canner}- Trust. — Salmon Streams Usually Small. — The "River of Life" at Karluk. — Development of Alaska Retarded — Cod and Halibut Fish- ing. — Immen.se Schools of Herring. — The Oolikon or Candle Fish. — The Beluga. — The Whale Indu.stry. CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. ROUTE To THE YUKON RIVER. Ty-a, the Head of Steamboat Navigation. — Necessary Supplies for the Trip. — Natives and Miners Pack Supplies — Reduced Cost of Living in the Interior. — Manner of Traveling. — Headwaters of the Yukon. — Cariboo Crossing — Lakes Linderman, Bennett, Marsh and Le Barge — Route to be Followed. — Cannon. — White Horse.— Five Fingers. — Trading Posts at Forty Mile and Fort Cudahy. — The Yukon Flats. — Navigation of the Yukon. CHAPTER VII. THE YUKON GOLD FIELDS. Gold First Discovered on the Yukon. — Three Divisions of the Interior. — Recent Discoveries. — Forty Mile Creek. — Birch Creek. — Climate of the Interior. — Long Winter Vigil. — Largest Nugget Ever Found in Alaska. — Placer Mining in Winter. — Gold Quartz Deposits. — Vicissitudes of the Miners' Life. CHAPTER VIII. LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. Fur Seal Industry. — Seal Rookery. — Hunting the Sea Otter. — Brown and Black Bear. — A Thlinkit Legend. — Home of the Beaver, — ^The Black, Red, White and Blue Foxes. — The Polar Bear. — Deer, Moose and Other Animals.- Eagles and Humming Birds. — The Feathery Tribe — Vast Resources of Alaska. CHAPTER IX. THE TOUR EST ROUTE. From Seattle to Sitka. — The Season for Tourists. — Seattle. — Tacoma. — Port Townsend. — Victoria — Nanaimo. — Seymour Narrows — Chatham Sound. — First Glimpse of Alaska. — New Metlakahtla. — Fort W^rangel. — W'rangel Narrows. — Taku Inlet. — Juneau — Treadwell Mine. — Lynn Canal. — Glacier Bay. — The Silent City. — Grandeur of Fairweather Range. — Peril Strait. — Sitka. — Mt. Edgecombe. — The Far Beyond. CHAPTER X. AL-^SKA INDIANS. Their Origin. — Ouass. — The Totem Pole and Its Significance. — Witchcraft, — Exorcising Evil Spirits. — Cremation Still Practiced. — Shamans or Doctors. — Expert in Carving and Engraving. — The Chilkat Blanket. — Atoning for Murder. — Blackening Faces. — Houses of Natives. CHAPTER XI. ESKIMO H.A.BITS AND CU.STOMS. An Eskimo Dwelling. — An Industrious and Patient People. — Primitive Manner of Making Fire. —Slaves to Tobacco. — The Oomiak and Kyak. — Eskimo Rain-Coat. — Tattooing by Women. — Wearing Labrets by CONTEXTvS. Men. — Polygamy. — Athletic Sport?. — Dancing Principal .Amusement. — Zaksriner, the Contortionist. — The Eskimo Dog. CHAPTER XII. REINDEER. Importation of Reindeer. — Starving Eskimos and Canse for Same. — Dr. Sheldon Jackson Interests Government. — Arctic Alaska a Natural Feeding Ground for Reindeer. — .\ Boon to the Eskimo. — Habits and Characteristics of the Reindeer. — Manner of Driving. — Reindeer Sledge and Harness. — Reindeer (yood Travelers. CHAPTER XIII. MrS.SIONS .\N1) SCHOOL.S. Russian Missionaries Sent to Alaska in 1793. — A Strange Admixture. — Lit- tle Progress Made. — Indian Attendance at School Not Encouraged. — Long Neglect of Congress to Provide Civil Government. — Dr. Sheldon Jackson in Charge of Educational Affairs.— Public School System Established. — Indian Industrial Training Schools.^ Devotion of Mis- sionaries and Teachers. CHAPTER XIV. THE BOUNDARY DISPUTE. Claim Made by the British Government. — The Treaty Between Russia and England. — Line of Demarkation Clearly Established. — AVjsurditj' of the British Claim. — The Ten Marine League Limit. — Portland Canal as the Eastern Limit. — Language of the Treaty. — Why Great Britain Wants this Strip of Territory. — An Outlet to the Great Interior. — Con- gress Cannot Afford to .Stultifv Itself. ERRATA. Page 17, third line — Convention should read committee. Page 18, tenth line — 1891-92 should read 1889-90. Page ]8, sixteenth line-- ifci9i should read 1890. Page 35, .seventeenth line — Kakutat should read Yakutat. Page 115 — Dr. Sheldon Jackson first went to Alaska in 1877. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. An Alaska Indian Girl, - - - - Frontispiece. OPPOSITE PACE. Karluk Sand Spit and " River of Life " - - 40 Yukon Miners at Sheep Camp, - - - - 44 Yukon Miners Sledding Over Route, _ _ - 48 Yukon Miners Packing Over Route. - ~ - 5° Yukon Miners and Natives Packing Over Route, - 52 Yukon Miners at Stone House, - - 54 Yukon Miners and Natives at Summit of Chilkoot Pass, --------- 56 The Canyon, Yukon River, ----- 60 Fur Seal Rookery, St. Paul Island, - _ - 64 Killing Fur Seal, St. Paul Island, - _ _ 66 Juneau, ---------72 Grenville Channel on Tourist Route, - - 76 The Great Treadwell Mill, ----- 78 The Treadwell Ledge, ----- 80 Sitka, at 10:30 p. m., _-_--- 82 Front of Muir Glacier, ----- 84 Crevasse on Top of Muir Glacier, - - The Silent City, _ - - - - ' - Sitka Harbor, - - - -- - - -92 Greek Church at Sitka, Exterior View, - - 94 Greek Church at Sitka, Interior View, - - 98 Southeastern Alaska Indians and Canoes, - 100 86 88 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - Continued. OPPOSITE PAGE. Hon. Warren Truitt, ______ 102 Zaksriner, _--_____ 103 Eskimo Boy, Eskimo Hut, Eskimo Girls, Eskimo Family, Eskimo Spearing Walrus, _ _ _ 104 Herd of Reindeer Lying Down, _ _ _ _ 108 King's Island, North Bering Sea, ._ _ _ _ 112 Dr. Sheldon Jackson, _ _ _ _ _ _ 115 Harrison R. Thornton, _ _ _ _ _ _ii8 Hon. Charles D. Rogers, _ _ _ - _ 121 New Metlakahtla, _ - _ _ _ _ _i28 LIST OF PEN SKETCHES. Totem Pole, _____--_9 Russian Block House at Sitka, _ _ _ _ 1 1 Indian Canoes, ________ 39 Eskimo Canoe, _______ 44 Miners Hauling Sleds, ______ 53 A Yukon Nugget, _______ 60 Eskimo with Dogs, ______ 62 Seal, _________ 63 Seal in Water, ________ 66 Baranoff Castle, _______ 93 Indian Woman, ________ 95 Indian Doctor, _______ 99 Reindeer Team, _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 113 Map of Alaska, Showing Routes, Disputed Boundary. /\I/\SKA. CHAPTER I. HISTORY. A LASKA is the name of all that portion of ^ the northwest extremity of this continent, which, until 1867, was known as Russian America It is only a matter of conjecture how long this region would have remained a terra incognita had not the Imperial government at St. Petersburg sent Vitus Bering, a Dane -fey birthr, on a voyage of discovery. The year 1728 'saw him in command of an expe- dition whose object was to find, if possible, new lands, and whose course led through the waters east of Siberia until he arrived in the great closed sea that now bears his name. The object of this expedition does not ap- pear in any degree to have been a desire to contribute to the cause of science; but the prime motives were aggrandizement and to extend the limits of trade. During this voyage Bering discovered that the two continents were separated hy only a narrow stretch of water at the point now known as Bering strait, and that the coast of the one was plainly visible from the shores of the other. The year following, this intrepid navigator endeavored to find a coast line across the waters to the eastward, but failed in his attempt. .' Immediately following this cruise, and for many j^ears after, there were rife rumors, which seemed to gather impetus with each recurring year, aided, doubtless, by Bering's own record of his voyages, that a rich country lay in the ' ' Far Beyond, ' ' and so the Russian government was stimulated to persist in its efforts . 'A^ tote;m pole. lo ALASKA. In 1 741 Bering again set sail with two vessels. Severe weather and heavy fogs caused them to drift apart; one of them attempted a landing at Cook inlet, but the Indians attacked and killed a number of the party, and caused the remainder to put to sea and make their way homeward as fast as possible. Bering, however, sailed farther eastward, and sighted an island near Cape St. Elias now known as Kaj-ak island There appears to haVe been no extended exploration at that time; for, ere long, we are told, Bering also turned the course of his ves.sel westward, and, being beset by violent storms, was stranded east of the Gulf of Kamtchatka, upon the i.sland which now bears his name: and there shortly after, being overtaken by disease, he died and was buried. To this fearless explorer belongs the honor of discovering and naming Mt. St. Elias, which, towering 18,000 feet heavenward, stands a weird and grandly beautiful monument to his memory. This snowy shaft marks the southern point of the boundary line separating Southeast Alaska from the great region, extending many hundred miles northward to the frozen ocean, known as Western Alaska; an august sentinel, clad in robes of white, there it stands, forever keeping a silent vigil over the waters of the mighty Pacific, The vSpaniards, in the prosecution of their search for the sup- posed pa.ssage to India, which was the great objective point of their early navigators, were gradually extending their explora- tions northward from the South American and Mexican coasts. In 1592 Juan de Fuca reached as far north as the strait that now bears his name, and in 1775 we find that Spanish explorers had reached Sitka. The Russians, in the meantime, had arrived at I'nalaska, Nor had the English forgotten to send representatives to this new field of exploration. Captain Cook, one of the most daring navigators of his time, justh- shares with Bering, who preceded him, as does also his young lieutenant, \'ancouver, who followed him, the glory and honor of na\-igating the w^aters of Bering sea and the North Pacific. It was on his return voyage that Cook was treacherously killed, and, it is believed, cooked and eaten, by the natives on one of the Sandwich islands. The uncomi)leted work of Captain Cook fell upon the shoul- ders of a worthy successor, and the surveys which \'ancouver commenced about 1792 covered his name with glory. The re- markable care and abilit\- with which he executed the work begun II I STORY by his old commander are, even in this day of improved facilities of maritime science, held in honor; for his charts are closely fol- lowed, and in the main found reliable. From the time of the planting of the Czar's flag upon the soil of this great unknown country its honor was sullied by acts of oppression and crueltj-. The Russian- American Fur Company had securely planted its trading posts throughout the new terri- tory, but its rule was characterized by the most barbarotis con- duct, and it became so notorious that at the expiration of its char- ter in 1862 the government was forced to deny further franchise. Three years later, in 1865, the Western Union Telegraph Com- pany proposed to construct a line from San Francisco northward through the Pacific States and Territories to connect A\-ith the Russian line at its then terminus, Amoor, Siberia. Manj^ miles of line were built, but the route failed of completion because of the successful la3dng of the Atlantic cable, and after an expendi- ture of over $3,000,000 the enterprise was abandoned. The path of the proposed route can yet be traced for man)- miles in the northwest territory by the poles that are standing with wires stretched between them. The outpost of the part}' en- gaged in its con- struction reach- ed a point and made its winter quarters within sixty miles of the extreme western limit of. the continent, and the remains of two members of the party lie buried in graves RUSSIAN BLOCK HOUSE AT SITKA. dug in the icy shore, two miles east of the United States reindeer station at Port Clarence, x\laska. 12 ALASKA. The United States purchased Alaska- from Russia in 1867, paN'ing the sum of S7, 200,000 for the same. At the time of the purchase this was generally looked upon as an extravagant ex- penditure; but ridicule at the action of Secretary Seward in this transaction has been changed to a sentiment that credits him with shrewd diplomacy in thus securing this great territory. Conjecture is never idle and various reasons have been assign'fed why Russia disposed of her vast possessions on this continent. It has been said that the United States commenced the nego- tiation to remunerate Russia, under the guise of purchase, for her friendh' attitude toward us during the civil war. Many also believe that Russia sought to dispose of this territory to the United States that England might not, in some wa}-, absorb it, and so strengthen her alreadj^ powerful hold on this continent. The most reasonable solution of the question however, is, that she wished to be relieved of the care and protection which her subjects so constantly required of her in maintaining the sem- blance of a government on this continent, and so far removed from her own shores. This view is also strengthened by the fact that Russia at no time from the earliest acquisition of the territory manifested any special interest in its development, and that the motives that actuated her in holding her possessions were largely influenced by the Russian-American Fur Company, While the name "Alaska" has been a synonym for a bleak, inhospitable waste of ice and snow, its literal interpretation will permit of no such construction. The aboriginal word is "Al-ak-shak," and means a great country. Covering a country eight hundred miles north and south b)^ about seven hundred east and west, containing six hundred thousand square miles, or an area equal to one-fourth of all the rest of the United States, it seems an empire in itself, and to have received a most appropriate name. It was Charles Sumner, who, at the time of the purchase, suggested the name "Alaska," and it was as a compliment in return for his warm advocacy of the purchase that Secretary Seward sanctioned the suggestion. In 1890 the lease of the fur seal islands to the Alaska Com- mercial Company expired, and at that time Alaska may be said to have emerged from a mantle of gloom and desolation. By this, we mean, that the great barrier in the way of its develop- HISTORY. 13 ment was removed wheu this industry passed into other hands. The day that marked the lowering of the Russian flag at Sitka and the hoisting of the stars and stripes realized the con- ception of a plan between a few shrewd men who saw in the fur seal industry a great opportunity to make money. For many years, under the Russian regime, these islands had been made to j-ield a large revenue to those who controlled the business, but it remained for the men who formed this new combination to make it one of the richest private enterprises that ever thrived under this or any other government. Quietly and before the vastness of the undertaking became known it had passed into the hands of men who knew how to manipulate it, and for a period of twenty years millions of dollars were made and man}- men became millionaires. Nor did the avarice of the combination stop here. Trading posts were estab- lished all along the southern coast, and within a short time upon the banks of every stream of any importance that pours its waters into Bering sea a trading post was stationed, and a sharp, shrewd frontiersman, in the employ of this compan5^ was there to trade his wares to the natives in exchange for furs. It is reasonable to suppose that a combination which had the foresight and tact to secure from a great government the monopoly of so rich a franchise woiild also be able to absolutely control all the territory it sought to encompass from the encroachments of competition. During the entire time that the company held possession of this lease it took care that the impressions should prevail that Alaska was good for naught save the production of fur-bearing animals. In doing this it used the strategy which other business corporations would be likely to use to protect their own interests. But the eyes of an adventurous world are never long blinded, and during the last years in which they controlled this lease the company were charged with every conceivable crime, and were constantly obliged to defend themselves against charges of mis- treatment of natives. Investigation, however, always exonerated them, and showed that the complaints were the outgrowth of petty malice on the part of discharged emplo\'es or of jealousy among rival fur dealers who were not in the combination. By the terms of the lease it was liable at any moment to be annulled for neglect or mistreatment of natives, and this would "destroy the goose that laid the golden egg." Knowledge of 14 ALASKA. the business methods of these men will effectualh^ dispel any suspicion that they would, by word or deed, commit an offense that would destroy the source of so vast a revenue. But there came a time, when the grip that this company held upon Alaska must be relaxed, and the spring of 1890 saw the lease of the fur seal islands pass into the hands of the North American Commercial Company. The whole southern coast was invaded by the new combina- tion, which established trading posts at every point that promised business with the natives. With the advent of the new company, a monthly mail route, for seven months of the 3'ear, was opened from Sitka to Bering's sea, and postoffices were established at different points, thus affording an opportunity to reach sections of the country that theretofore had been practically unknown. While the extension of the mail service has not yet resulted in the building up of any considerable towns or villages, the effect has been to open communication between the southern coast of Alaska and the outside world. The census of 1S90 gave the white population at 4,300, but during the last four j-ears these numbers have been largely aug- mented, and it is safe to say that the white population has been more than doubled. Since that date, also, the mining interests of the territory have large h' increased, especially in the interior, and with the discover)- of gold in the Yukon region, the country has grown with great rapidity. The government of Alaska, covering the period from its acquisition to the year 1884, was more of a military form than otherwise. The only officers stationed in the territory were those belonging to the customs service. It was their duty to see that any infringement of the laws, as for instance, smuggling liquor into the territory, or selling the same to Indians or white men, were corrected ; and, if necessar}', they invoked the aid of the military or naval force. About the year 1S80, the white residents of Southeast Alaska began to discuss the feasibility of securing some sort of civil government for the territory. And in the summer of 1881, a convention was held at Juneau, which resulted in the selection of Mottrom D. Ball as a delegate to Congress, The following winter he appeared in Washington, presented his credentials, and asked to be recognized as a delegate from the territory of Ala.ska. Further than to attract some attention to the condition of its HISTORY. • 15 aifairs, Mr. Ball's visit to Washington was of no great value, for he was not permitted to take his seat. Still the wedge had been applied to the encasement of the difficulties that encompassed Alaska, and the light of intelligent investigation was dawning on her horizon. During the next session of Congress, various bills were introduced looking to the passage of laws that would give to Alaska some semblance of a civil government. In 1 8 S3, Senator Benjamin Harrison introduced a bill, which became a law in the following summer. It is called ' ' The Organic Act of Ala.ska," and provides for the appointment of a governor, district judge, clerk of the court, marshal, collector, and four United States commissioners, one of whom is to reside in each of- the principal towns of the territory, the other officers to reside at Sitka, which, by this act, was made the temporary capital ; and all these officers were to be appointed b}- the President. This act, though very defective, when viewed by the light of the past ten years, w^as still a step in the direction of a civil govern- ment. Alaska is essentially a prohibition country. It prohibits the cutting of timber, and the exporting of the same out of the ter- ritor}' ; it prohibits the killing of fur seal, except under certain restrictions, which give to a company the exclusive control of the same ; it prohibits the importation, sale, or manufacture of whisky in the territory, though it can be had in almost an}- vil- lage or hamlet within its borders ; and notwithstanding this absolute prohibition, the government has seen fit to collect an internal revenue tax from all persons having it for sale. The Governor is permitted to use his discretion as to whom he will grant a license ; it must, however, be to a druggist who will sell the same purely for medical, mechanical and scientific pur- poses. The attempt on the part of the government to restrain this traffic in Alaska has proven a farce, because of the wholly inade- quate means at the disposal of the officers, whose duty it is to execute the laws. From the earliest settlement of Russian America down through the 3'ears since the purchase by the United States, the liquor question has overshadowed every other, and the sturdy miners and those following other pursuits, and especially the missionary people have been in constant anxiety as to the effect unexecuted liquor laws would have upon the native population. While they i6 ALASKA. are practically a dead letter, yet there has been greater security felt since the appointment of the present incumbent as district judge, who seems to be able to grapple with the evil, and confine it within the least possible unwholesome limits. The visit to Alaska of Assistant Secretary of the Treasury Hamlin, last 5'ear, was followed this spring by the appearance in the waters of Southeast Alaska of an additional revenue cutter for the purpose of suppressing the smuggling of whisky from British Columbia, and although she patroled the waters diligently for sev- eral weeks, and sent officers ashore for the purpose of intercepting cargoes of liquor known to have been shipped into the territory by small sloops, the vigilance of the search was rewarded by the cap- ture of but a few hundred gallons, and the cutter finally aban- doned the effort and returned to Puget Sound. The nature of the country is such that its many intricate and winding channels afford most favorable opportunities for the smuggling of liquors into the territory, and it is doubtful if an}' rules could be adopted, even to the regular patroling of its waters by government vessels that would prevent the traffic. An idea of the extent to which this business is carried on may be gleaned from the fact that in the little town of Juneau, whose population does not exceed two thousand souls, there are twenty saloons in actual operation. The impos.sibility of suppressing this traffic has become so apparent that the best and most respected citizens of the territory unite in the opinion that the only way to regulate the trade is to have a license law. If such were the case the men who pay a licen.se for the privilege of carrying on the business would see that only those who are legally authorized are permitted to engage in the traffic. This would suppress the dangerous ele- ment known as "boot-leg" venders, who sell whi.sky by the pint or quart to the Indians. Many evils which now exist would by this means be effectually remedied, and the government would still retain a source of revenue. In 1888 the Democrats of Alaska formed a party organization and sent two delegates to the Democratic National Convention. These delegates were permitted to take their seats, and this was the first representation of the territor}- by her citizens In the fall of 1889 the Republicans organized and held a con- vention at Juneau, and adopted a memorial to be presented to members of Congress. The author of this book who drafted the HISTORY. 17 memorial was delegated to proceed to Washington and present it to both houses of Congress. He was also chosen a member of the National Republican Convention from Alaska. The memorial referred to represents clearly the condition of affairs in the territory and is here given in full, as follows: TO THE REPUBLICAN MEMBERS OF THE UNITED STATES SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. We, the Republicans of Alaska in convention assembled, respectfully represent to your honorable body, that on this the fifth day of November, 1889, a day when the Republicans in the various States and Territories of the Union are contesting for the principles of our great party, we are denied that sacred privilege. Among the great territories of the west we alone stand a monument representing complete and utter isolation and non- representation. With an area sufficient to form a dozen States, with resources unnumbered and un- limited, with no manner of expressing our just needs or to demand our just rights, with a population of upwards of ten thousand whites and fifty thou- sand natives, among whom are many intelligent and industrious, we come to you for relief. With no means of acquiring title to propert}^ in which our capital is invested and our labor is expended, we ask the passage of such laws as will afford us relief in this direction. With many of our people desirous of securing land upon which they can engage in farming, stock raising, dairying and other pursuits of husbandry, we ask that the homestead laws be extended in such manner as will open iip this domain for that class of our citizens. With hundreds of thousands of dollars invested in the fish industry we ask the passage of such laws as will secure titles to their propertv, and en- courage the development of one of our greatest resources, and one which is fast becoming valuable to the nation at large. With vast forests extending throughout the territory we ask that the present laws relative to the cutting of timber be so modified as to allow it to be used for domestic purposes by the canneries in the packing and exporta- tion of their fish, and by parties actually engaged in manufacturing enter- prises within the territory, and the exportation of furniture and other wooden-wares, etc., etc., and manufactured from our native timber. The judiciary of Alaska is anomalous, lying between and dependent upon the general laws of the United States and the general laws of the State of Oregon, and having no true basis from which it can be interpreted. Therefore we ask that a code of laws be enacted for the District of Alaska, suitable to our wants and circumstances and made applicable to our growing industries and communities. To da}^ Alaska stands alone among the great territories of the west with- out a representative upon the floor of Congress, and we deem it unjust that 2 i8 ALASKA. a longer denial of the rights accorded other portions of our country should be imposed upon us. In presenting this memorial to your honorable body we humbly ask your xinanimous aid in our behalf, and we will ever pray, etc. C. F. DEPUE, Chairman. C. S. BLACKETT, Secretary. The next Republican National Committee allowed Alaska the same representation as other territories, and the Democratic National Convention followed with a like action. During the winter of 1 891-2, General George W. Garside and Miner W. Bruce labored with both houses of Congress to secure the passage of such laws as were demanded by the memorial ; their efforts were so far successful, that the house committee on territories unanimousl}- adopted the bill, which, on the 3d of March of the following year, became a law. In the fall of 1891, the People's Convention, held at Juneau, selected Captain James Carroll, the well known master of the tourist steamer " Queen," to proceed to Washington, for the purpose of securing legislation. It was largely through his efforts that the bill referred to became a law. While this bill did not, by any means, meet the needs of the convention, it was thought best to urge its passage, because the case resolved itself, into a choice of this, or nothing. This law is the only one by which a title to land may be secured in Alaska, except under the general mining laws of the country ; by it individuals or companies may 'purchase land at $2.50 per acre, for business or manufacturing purposes; and resi- dents of towns may acquire title to their lots. It is worthy of mention, in connection with Captain Carroll's efforts in behalf of Alaska, that when he arrived in Washington he proposed, .should Congress not be disposed to pass the laws needed for the protection of its citizens, that he was ready to purchase the territory of the government, and was also prepared to close the transaction for the sum of $20,000,000 at any time the government would accept it. This proposition, so character- istic of the man, was looked upon by many in the light of a joke; yet it was meant seriously and had the effect of opening the eyes of many public men to the value of this vast new country. Alaska has no legislature or officers elected by the people at large, but is still treated as a district, similar, perhaps, to the District of Columbia, where Congress directly governs affairs. HISTORY. 19 The passage of the Organic act of 1884, brought into the ter- ritory, as government officials, many men from different states of the Union, most of whom were men of character and abilit3\ In their official capacities, they have had excellent opportunities to familiarize themselves with the vast richness of the territorj^ and the close of their terms of office has seen most of them earnest defenders of its interest. Perhaps the most enthusiastic of its advocates is A. P. Swine- ford, who was appointed Governor of Alaska, by President Cleve- land, during his first term of office. His warm espousal and radical views of the resources of the territor}' have attracted a great deal of attention to Alaska. He is charged with exaggera- tion and deceit in his statements of the resources and future possibilities of the country; but the developments of the past few years have demonstrated that his pictures are not overdrawn. In the fall of 1894, a people's convention was held at Juneau, and a memorial to Congress, similar to the one adopted by the convention of 1S89, and which the author of this book also had the honor of drafting, was unanimously passed. It was suggested, by some of the delegates, to select as repre- sentative to Congress Miss Kate Field, whose championship of the territory had been so marked that upon ever}" opportunity offered she urged Congress to do its duty and relieve the inhab- itants of their burden. That she has thereby gained the admira- tion of Alaska's citizens, is proved by this suggestion, but delicacy lest the action be regarded in the light of a burlesque, and the fact that no opportunity was allowed to ascertain if the honor would be accepted, finally caused the suggestion to be abandoned, and Mr. Thomas S No well was unanimously chosen delegate to Congress. Mr. Nowell's large mining interests in Alaska, and his exten- sive acquaintance among members of Congress and officials in Washington, placed him in ^Sgellent position to command respect and wield influence; and, but, for the fact that the session was a short one, Alaska would, in all probabilit}-, have been recognized and Mr. Nowell seated as its first delegate. The enormous growth of interest in Alaskan affairs during the past four years, is proved b}' the call from officials at Wash- ington for all possible information from that quarter, and that this interest is shared by the Secretary of the Interior, is demon- 20 ALASKA. strated by the request sent to Governor Sheakely to be present in Washington, during this session. It was fondl}^ hoped that some legislation would be effected by this Congress, still, it is not surprising, that Alaska should suffer equally with other States and Territories in being overshadowed by the many important matters that have consumed the time of that august body. Onl}^ those who have had experience in the matter can realize the difficulty of securing legislation for Alaska. She labors under the exceptional disadvantage of having no one to whom she has a right to appeal for aid. The members of Congress from other States and Territories have their own constituencies to look after; and the demands upon their time by legitimate claimants are so many and so great that they can hardly be expected to labor for the interests of a country so remote and of which they know so little. The next few years must bring about great changes in the governmental affairs of Alaska. In all probability the great sec- tion known as Southeast Alaska will become a Territory as soon as there shall be a sufficient number of people within its limits to bring about such result. At present there is a widespread feeling among the residents opposed to territorial organization, on account of a dread of taxes, and the expenses attendant upon the maintaining a form of government. But these objections will melt awav with the onward rush of civilization. CHAPTER II. TOPOGRAPHY. n^HE elements of grandeur, weirdness, solemnity and vastness enter, in a large degree, into a topographical description of Alaska. Its many interest- ing features hold the mind spellbound with awe, in their presence, and fill the memory with undying wonder. The labyrinth of verdant islands that diver- sifies the coast line; the swelling plains of the interior; gigantic mountain peaks, snow-covered and hoary with J^ age; the mighty glaciers — vast rivers ^^ of ice!/which for centuries have .slowly forged their way to the abyss of the ocean, and which, before many more centuries will have entirely disappeared, so that future ages will know them only by the records of their awful sublimity; the active volcanoes rearing their smoking, often fiery, crests among the mountain peaks; and the valleys, great and small, rich in natural resources of many kinds, which inter- sect the interior country in all directions. Alaska is naturally divided into two great divisions — South- east and Western Alaska. Mt. St. Elias marks the dividing line between Western Alaska and Southeast Alaska, at 141 degrees west longitude, running north from this point to the Arctic ocean. For a number of years it was supposed that Mt. St. EHas was within American territory, but late surveys show most of its base to be just over the line in the Canadian Dominion. Many of the islands in the inland, or tourist route, have the appearance of half-submerged mountains, and water two hundred 22 ALASKA. fathoms deep is often found, where the breadth of the channel can be ahnost spanned, by the length of the ship. Fiords are numerous, some of them winding in serpentine fashion a distance of twenty or more miles, into the islands or mainland. The great rivers of the interior drain immense valleys, with mountain ranges everywhere visible. Lakes are abundant, often surrounded b}- tundra or swamps, ver}- frequently impene- trable, covered with brush, rank grasses, and other vegetation. After the interior is reached — and by this is meant after the coast mountains are crossed, in many places, only twenty or thirty miles from the coast — the soft earth and luxuriant vegetation of the coast country give place to frozen ground, and lichens and mosses on the mountain sides and in the valleys. But though the vast plains of the interior are completely within the grasp of the ice king, for eight months of the j^ear, with the advent of the long days of summer water runs, flowers bloom, and grasses spring into life as if by magic, and their growth is at once lux- uriant and rapid, even though in many places the soil is never thawed beyond a few inches below the surface. In the far north at St. Michaels, and at Point Barrow, wells have been dug through sixty feet of solid ice, and the same con- dition has been noted on the Yukon, at Forty Mile. The Aleutian islands, stretching far out into the North Pacific, surrounded by rocks scarred and battered for ages, by the boister- ous waves, are without trees, but they are thickly covered with a low growth of luxuriant vegetation. Between the mountains and the sea are small plateaus or prairies, with soil enriched by vegetable mould, and suitable for domestic gardening. Grass grows abundantly here, sometimes to a height of six feet. It is cured by the natives, to feed a few small Siberian cattle, and they also braid it into useful and often ornamental articles, such as baskets, hats and mats. The growth of this grass is so abundant and prolific that investigators have predicted that this Aleutian country will yet furnish the Pacific coast with its best butter and cheese; while botanists agree that the southern coast country of Ala.'ska abounds in grasses, and has a climate, perhaps, as well adapted for haying as the coast of Oregon. The Rus.sians esteem Cook inlet, which lies to the north of Kadiak, to be the pleasantest portion of Alaska in the summer season. Its skies are nearly always bright, as stretching far in- TOPOGRAPHY. 23 land in a northeasterly direction it is out of the region of fogs, which so frequently prevail on the coast. Its shores are pleasant, being well wooded and watered. Gold has been found in large quantities, and recent reports tell of still richer placer deposits having been discovered on the inlet itself and on the Kaknu river, which debouches into Cook inlet. The guiding landmarks of Alaska may be said to be its grand mountains, volcanic peaks and mammoth glaciers. Mt. St. Elias lifts its ermine top over 18,000 feet above the level of the sea. In the distance it seems to have its base on the ver}^ shore of the ocean, although in reality sixty miles distant. From the south side of Mt. St. Elias eleven glaciers slowly make their way ocean- ward, one of them, named Agassiz glacier, being estimated to be twenty miles in width and fifty in length, covering an area of one thousand square miles. Mt. Fairweather, one hundred and fift}' miles south of Mt. St. Klias, is about 15,500 feet high ; Mt. Crillon, 15,000 ; Mt. Perouse, 14,300; and Mt. Wrangell is over 19,000. There are thirty or more volcanoes in Alaska, six or eight of which are in an active state of eruption. Shishaldin, which is 9,000 feet high, is certainly burning, and its smoke maj^ always be seen in clear weather. It is situated on Unimak island near the pass of the same name, usuall}- followed by vessels in enter- ing Bering sea. Pavlof, about one hundred miles to the east- ward, is another smoking mountain; the glow from its crater may be seen reflected against the heavens. Mt. Makushin, at the eastern extremety of Unalaska island, is about 5,500 feet in height, and gives evidence of being more or less active ; while the tops of Pogrumnoi and Shishaldin, on Unimak island, serve as beacons at night or in foggy weather for vessels on their way into Bering sea, as thej^ can be seen distinctly, towering above the dense atmosphere. Akutan island has a smoking volcano, 4,000 feet high; and on Atka island there are several volcanoes, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height, which occasionally emit smoke. Mt. Logan, the highest known mountain in North America, unless it may be Mt. Wrangell, has an elevation of 19,000 feet. Some surveyors claim that Wrangell is a loftier peak than Logan, but its exact height is unknown. Wrangell is clearly within Alaska, but Logan is a few miles east of the line, in Canadian territor5^ 2X ALASKA. Hot mineral springs abound all over the various island groups of Alaska, especially those stretching from the Alaskan penin- sula westward towards Asia. About fifteen miles south of Sitka, hot springs are also found, which possess great curative prop- erties. Consumption, scrofula, syphilitic diseases and rheu- matism are common among the aborigines, consumption being the most fatal ; while scrofula prevails to a great extent, aggra- vated, it is believed, by an almost exclusive fish diet and by rank uncleanliness. S3'philitic diseases, the terrible heritage left these natives, as the result of contact with sailors in the early days, and augmented by uncleanly habits, are likewise common. These diseases are said to yield readily to the treatment afforded by these natural health restorers, the hot springs, and it is claimed they can, to all appearances, be entirely eradicated from the system after a few weeks bathing and drinking the waters of these springs. They all possess similar properties, being strongly impregnated with iron, sulphur, and magnesia. During the Russian occupancy, bath houses were built at Sitka springs, and bathing tanks constructed, and natives and whites from this portion of the territory frequently visited them. Hot springs are also found near lyoring, and others at Hoonah, these being more patronized, because they are nearer the settled portion of the country. The aspect of the country about Bering strait is mountainous, but not extremely precipitous. From Cape Prince of Wales, another continent, Asia, may be seen, for the Siberian coast is plainly visible. Citizens of the United States, and the subjects of the Czar of all the Russias, metaphorically speaking, might stand on their respective shores, and clasp hands across the nar- row channel called Bering strait^ which connects the waters of the Arctic ocean with Bering sea. This strait is bvit forty-eight miles wide, and the narrow pass- age is partially filled b}' Little and Big Diomede islands near the middle of the strait. The islands are only two miles apart, and the line of demarcation between Alaska and Siberia runs midway between them. The shallow water of Bering strait, averaging only about twenty-seven fathoms in depth, and the short distance between the two continents, give rise to interesting speculation concerning the connecting of the eastern and western hemispheres by a railroad which would, literally, girdle the world. Fancy TOPOGRAPHY. 25 leaving New York by special limited train, traversing the North American continent longitudinally to the great Yukon valley, then westward to Bering strait, crossing it with the trans- Siberian railwaj' as a connection, and speeding on to St. Peters- burg, Paris, London, etc., and this is within the realm of possibilit}^ Engineering skill has made rapid progress within a decade, and who shall say what the genius of man aided by wonderful inventions and electricity will accomplish! It will be a physical impossibility to span Bering strait with a bridge, owing to the swift current and the vast quantities of ice which, in winter, are continually flowing through, and which would speedily demolish such a structure. It may be possible, however, that the strait could be tunneled, but it is here sug- gested — as more practicable — that it could be filled in with rock, allowing sufficient openings for the waters to flow through, and for vessels to pass, thus forming an adamantine roadway between the extreme west and east, as represented bj^ the United States and Siberia. The mountains that mark the westernmost point of the conti- nent at Cape Prince of Wales are rocky and barren, the ledges standing upon high pillars, with shattered sides, and uneven sur- faces. Towards the base, facing Bering strait, the slope is gradual, extending into a low sandy beach reaching out into the strait a mile or more and then bearing to the north. Endless quantities of rock could be taken from these mountains of solid stone and dumped into the strait, until a roadway, similar to the great wall of China, but deeper, and broader, and stronger, would rise from the bottom of the shallow waters. The expense, it is true, would be enormous — and no attempt is here made to discuss scientific difficulties in the way — but let it be remem- bered that all great engineering projects have been first ridiculed and denounced as chimerical, as, witness — the Suez canal, Nica- ragua canal, the Panama canal, and other great triumphs of engi- neering skill. The practicability of the Panama canal, in which the French people invested tens of millions of dollars, though yet uncompleted, has been fully demonstrated. To carry so gigantic an enterprise to a successful completion unlimited capi- tal and labor would be required. In the matter of labor, if white men could not be found, twenty-five thousand Eskimos, who are indefatigable workers, could be utilized. And should the enter- 26 ALASKA. prise be undertaken jointly, by the governments of the United States and Russia, the latter would, no doubt, make use of her convicts, as she is now doing in the construction of the trans- Siberian railroad. Alaska oflFers many inducements for railroad building. The physical contour of the country, especially in the interior, pre- sents few obstacles, and the numerous valleys afford natural ave- nues for the construction of these great highways. The rich gold fields, the mighty plains of the Yukon and its many tribu- taries, will yet hear the snorting of the iron horse, and the vast coal and gold fields, mountains of silver and iron ore, as well as many other natural resources of this countrj-, will be opened up by the enterprise of the twentieth century. The indomitable energy and power of man will yet la}^ this vast country under tribute and cause it to yield a golden harvest. An all rail route from the new world to the old, across Bering strait, would be the connecting link to weld the nations together, in the development of commerce and of the untold riches of little known portions of the two vast continents. That this would be a mammoth undertaking, is not denied, but its possibilit}^ cannot be questioned. It is not all fanciful — "the unsubstantial pageant of a dream"- — but is rather the living, actual reality, that before another quarter of a century has rolled away a great international highwaj^ will be opened up and the nations of the world will become its patrons. CHAPTER III. CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE. T^HE beneficent Japan current influences the whole country, even as far north as the Kuskoqum river, and has the effect of soothing the chraate of the north Bering sea coast. Precipitation is very great in the southern coast country. The air is cool during the pleasantest time of the ^-ear, in the long summer days when the sun shines most. As a rule, it is clear but few days in the ^xar ; usualh^ however, in June and July, the sun pierces the deep and heavy clouds that settle over the mountains, and brightens up the landscape. When the sun is obscured, it is liable to rain for days, and sometimes for two or three weeks at a time, But rains here are not so cold and chilly, as in most countries, where cloud}^ or rainj^ weather pre- vails for long periods, and, as a rule, are warm and soft. The average rainfall along the coast is not far short of one hundred inches a year, and at Unalaska, in 1884, one hvtndred and fift3'-five inches was recorded. The fall of snow in the coast countr}' is also considerable. At times it covers the earth to a depth of three feet on a level, but is usually damp, and a snow storm is apt to turn into rain in a few hours, causing the huge bank and drifts to disappear. The mercury rarely falls to zero in any part of the southern coast country, it is more likely to register above freezing point than below during the greater part of the winter. The climate is much dryer in the interior, rain occurring as a rule, only in the spring and summer. In severe showers it is sometimes accompanied by fierce thunder and lightning, which rarely is known on the coast. Probably no other section of this continent presents such a diversity of climate as Alaska. The heat of the summer in the interior is sometimes intense, often registering over one hundred degrees in the shade, and it has been known to burst a spirit, thermometer after graduating up to one hundred and twenty. 28 ALASKA. Summer heat, however, is quickly followed by winter cold, and the mercury will fall to fifty or sixty degrees below zero. On one occassion, at Fort Yukon, it was known to have reached seventy degrees below zero. The winter begins about the first of October and lasts until the first of June. The mean temper- ature during the months of December, January, and February, is about twent3^-four degrees below zero. This cold weather and long period of winter is felt to within a very few^ miles of the coast, or from the point where the mountains are crossed. Nothwithstanding the marked variations in the climate, Alaska is essentially a healthy country. The only prevailing diseases are those of a bronchial nature, and in most cases these troubles can be directly traced to imprudent exposure. The snow of the interior partakes much of the character of frost, sifting slowly down in intensely cold weather until it lies several inches deep, light and fluffy; but at times, in warm weather, it thaws and settles into a hard crust, affording excellent surface for sledding. The great precipitation and humidity of the atmosphere in Southern Alaska cause the entire coast region to be clothed in a mantle of perennial green. Vegetation is dense, and the forests magnificent. The soil is rich, though in the heavily timbered section, it is shallow ; and from the most eastern point of the territory to Kadiak, root crops are easily grown. Radishes, let- tuce, carrots, onions, cauliflower, peas, turnips, cabbage, beets, celery and potatoes, yield prolificly. On one-sixth of an acre at Sitka, eighty bushels of potatoes have been raised. It was, however, a plot of ground that had been formerly used by the Russians as a garden and was carefully prepared. Strawberries grow with the greatest spontaneity, and have a flavor equal to those of southern latitudes. Some extensive fields of straw- berries are found under the very shadow of the glaciers, both at Glacier bay and at Yakutat. Potatoes are grown in most of the native villages along the coast countr}^ No system of planting is followed, the rule being simply to bury a whole potato in the ground and when the vines appear above the surface thin out if necessary ; dirt is then heaped in a soft hill with but little of the care given this crop by practical farmers. The potatoes grown here have an excellent flavor, but are inclined to be watery. • The cultivation of the soil by the natives is of the most primi- tive character, and that by the whites is carelesslj^ done. CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE. 29 Oats, barley, and wheat have been grown on the Stikeen river, where the cHmate is colder and dryer. The precipitation on the coast is so great that it is doubtful if cereals could mature, except in a dry season. They grow very rapidly, but run largely to stock, and before they can mature, are cut down by frosts or mould through dampness. Silos and ensilage would undoubt- edly be a success here. Cattle prefer the hay of the country to that imported, and if the two are fed to them mixed, they will separate the native ha}' and eat it first. As soon as the snow has disappeared in the spring, masses of herbage spring into life and quickly blossom. Fruits rapidly mature and harvest closely follows seed time. It is a surprising fact that not only on the coast, but also in the interior, small fruits, especially raspberries, blueberries, cranberries and red currants everywhere abound. When the sun shines continually for twenty-four hours vegetable life is extremely rapid, notwith- standing the shortness of the season. The capability of the soil of Alaska under a proper s^-stem of cultivation, both on the coast and in the interior, remains yet to be demonstrated. It is hoped that agricultural experimental stations will be established by the government, in the different parts of the territory, say — one at Chilkat, one at Kadiak, and one in the interior. If this is done intelligent and practical experi- ments with the various grains, roots, and grasses suitable to these latitudes can be made. In the spring of 1894, the author had the honor of appearing before the house committee on agriculture in support of establishing stations as above; and a bill appropriating fifteen thousand dollars for the purpose was unanimously re- ported, but it met with the usual fate of Alaskan measures — was never reached on the calendar. From the climatic influences known to exist, and the good results achieved b}- the crude, tentative experiments already made, one can fairly infer that the conditions are favorable for certain kinds of crops which only intelligent experimenting will determine. Stock raising in Alaska, also, must first be investigated. Along the coast the chilly air of fall and v^'inter is ver}' trj-ing, and cold rains, snow, sleet and severe winds are all encountert-d. Experiments, heretofore made, have not proved entirely satisfac- tory. Foot rot in sheep has interfered with this industry, to some extent, but experienced stockmen, familiar with the interior of 30 ALASKA. the territory, are confident that it presents excellent opportunities for the successful raising of cattle; and believe it is possible that the great interior may, within a very few years, become a feed- ing ground for tens of thousands of sheep and cattle. The tundra moss-covered regions, suitable for reindeer grazing, prevail throughout the whole western coast country, and, in the interior, for many miles nutritious grass and moss are everywhere found in abundance. CHAPTER IV. MINERAL AND TIMBER. "T^HE first discovery of gold in Southeast Alaska was near Sitka, in the 3'ear 1873. It excited much interest in the small settlements throughout the southeastern coast, and pros- pecting soon commenced in earnest. Miners from the old Cassiar region in British Columbia, and the northwest territorj', began to push forward into Alaska, and, in the summer of 18S0, gold was discovered in the vicinity of Juneau. From this date may be reckoned the developments that have reached such large pro- portions and drawn the attention of the whole mining interests in America to our Alaska possessions. The little Indian settlement at the head of Gastineau channel, which had rarely seen a white man, was soon enlivened by the tents and rude huts of the miners, which were scattered along the coast for many miles; and back into the interior went prospectors, singly, and in parties of three or more, in search of gold, as very strong indications led them to believe, it lay somewhere in this vicinit3^ Joseph Juneau was the first man to demonstrate the existence of gold in this district in any considerable quantities. During the earl}^ days of the settlement there seemed a disposition to bestow h^nor upon one Richard Harris, a partner of Juneau, by naming the first mining town after him. So the town was first called Harrisburg, subsequently named Rockwell, in honor of one of the officers of the United States steamer Jamestown, then located at Sitka; but the inhabitants finally determined to give it the name Juneau, which it now bears. Gold creek pours its waters down through the deep ravines and gorges that extend back from Juneau for four or five miles. It is impossible to estimate the yield of gold, but it is safe to say that it reached many thousands of dollars. While it was not claimed that any great amount was taken out by one individual, it is a fact that many men found diggings which paid them hand- 32 ALASKA. somely, and effectually demonstrated that they were in the heart of a rich gold region. About the time of the first gold excitement at Juneau, the re- port was circulated that gold had been found on the top of a mountain about two miles across the bay, and it was learned that a miner, known in camp by the name of "French Pete," had staked off a claim. Mr. John Treadwell was at this time pros- pecting in the region, and investigated this location; being con- vinced that it would prove good property, he purchased it for the sum of $400. By untiring energ\^, and persistent efforts, he de- veloped the property, forging his wa}- almost inch by inch. He erected first a five stamp mill. The result was so promising that he found little trouble in organizing a company with capital suf- ficient to erect a one hundred and twenty stamp mill, which, seven years after the first discovery, was enlarged to two hundred and forty stamps, and the largest mill in the world was soon pounding out gold. For the past seven years there has hardly been a break in the rattle of the machinery or the booming of the heavy charges of dynamite, as they are echoed and re-echoed over the channel to the town of Juneau. Daj^ and night during this whole period, with the exception of the Fourth of July and Christmas, and, perhaps, one or two other days in the year, it has never been known to stop. In calling this the greatest mill in the world, we mean that it is full}' equipped in every department pertaining to a well regulated and efficient working property; and although the ore is known as very low grade, estimated by some as Aneldiiig only $1.85 in bullion to the ton of ore, the gold output from this mine since the full two hundred and forty stamps have been in operation has reached the sum of $70,000 or $80,000 per month. • While the discovery of this rich ledge awakened a widespread interest in Alaska, it was also the means of effecting the organ- ization of a company which perpetrated a swindle aggregating several hundred thousand dollars. A claim adjoining the great Treadwell mine, and represented to be fully as promising, was located, after a supposed thorough and careful system of pros- pecting. German and English capitalists were induced to take hold of it; tunnels were run, machinery erected, and everything made ready to start the operation of a huge plant, when it was discovered that the claim had been "salted." Work stopped at MINERAL AND TIMBER. 33 once, and the mining world was startled by the announcement that the Bear's Nest mine in Alaska was a gigantic swindle. This threw cold water upon the mining development of Alaska for a period of three or four years, and no matter how promising a claim it could not be negotiated at any price. Capitalists look- ing for investments were afraid to venture into Alaska. The rumor, too, became current that the Treadwell mine was a mere "blowout" or pocket, where, by a singular freak of nature, a lot of gold had been dumped in one huge pile, and that it would never be found in paying quantities anywhere else in the countr3\ During this time, however, a number of men who had followed mining camps from the earliest days of California up through Oregon, into the Cariboo and Cassiar regions of British Columbia, finally drifted into Alaska, and believed the}' were 3'et within the mineral belt. Their entire energy and every dollar they could command were expended in the development of mining claims that were staked out in many places along the coast of South- eastern Alaska, and the result of their work has shown that their confidence was not misplaced. Without entering into a detailed or tedious enumeration of the different camps or claims which have been prospected successfully, it is sufficient to say that all through the Southeastern Alaska coast to the end of the inland channel or tourist route, at the very gates of the Pacific ocean, wherein lies America's Venice, gold and rich deposits of silver and galena ore are found. To the energy and steadfast belief of a few of the old settlers in Sitka is due in no small degree the credit of establishing the fact that the gold belt of California and the Western Territories was not riven asunder when it reached the coast range; and when the mountains that tower behind the capital at Sitka are made to yield up the ore that lies buried in their innermost recesses, we believe it will prove to be as rich as an}' )-et discovered in this country. In several places on Prince of Wales island, and north on Annette island, a number of excellent locations have been found where free gold is scattered among the rocks. Within the past few months prospectors have located claims, the assays of which indicate large and rich depo.'?its of gold. The prospectors for silver, four or five years ago, met with good success, but on account of the depreciation in value of this metal the search for it has been almost entirel}- abandoned, 3 34 ALASKA. Passing north towards Juneau, at Sum Duni, is located the Bald Eagle mining claim, ■which after being thoroughly pros- pected was sold a few months ago for many thousands of dollars. The present season is seeing the erection of a ten-stamp mill at this place; the owners feel fully justified in the expenditure because the ore shipments from this mine to the Puget Sound smelting works promise rich results. The ore is valued at up- wards of one hundred dollars per ton. Northward, within four miles of Juneau, at Sheep creek, the Silver Queen mine is located and a ten-stamp mill in operation. Adjoining, claims have, during the past four j-ears, been prospected, until the probabilities are that this will be the seat of active and extended operations the coming 3-ear. Within a radius of four miles of Juneau, besides the great Treadwell mine, there are eight mills in operation and the output is such as to encourage the com- panies in extended and most active prosecution in the work of development. Gold creek, which comes down through the mountains north of Juneau, and flows into the ba}^ in a rushing torrent of water, drains about four miles of country, and upon both sides the rugged mountains seems to be interwoven by rich ledges of gold quartz. Six stamp mills are constantly at work eight months of the year, and the coming season will see the beginning of develop- ment by the erection of mills on several other claims. A num- ber of placer claims have been successfully operated there for a number of 3'ears, and at what is known as the " basin " many thousands of dollars have been spent in getting ready to operate by hydraulic machinery what promises to be valuable property. Across the bay adjoining the great Treadwell mine, at what is known as the Mexico mine, a sixt3'-stamp mill is in operation which will be enlarged by an addition of sixt}- more this coming season. To the east of that is the Ready Bullion, and a two hundred-stamp mill will be operated the coming year; these two claims are owned or controlled by the company that owns the great Treadwell mine. Towards Lynn canal, sixty miles from Juneau, the Berner's Bay mining property shows indications that the richness and quantity of this ore will prove as great as any j-et found. On Admiralty island, at Funta bay, also, is a group of what will probabl}' prove one of the richest mining camps in the whole of Southeast Ala.ska. A number of ledges are found that contain MINERATv AND TIMBER. 35 rich ore and rock, which, when pounded out from any of these ledges, yield in every instance exceptionally rich deposits of gold in the bottom of the pan. At Glacier bay there are many strong indications of silver, the veins being easily traced along the sides of the mountains, which are entirely nude of vegetation. On Willoughby island, in par- ticular, there are rich galena deposits, and up to the time of the depreciation of silver extensive preparations were made to de- velop several of these properties. At the extreme end of Glacier bay are very rich deposits, in which native silver has been found among galena. The owners are carefully doing their assessment work each year and w^aiting for silver to appreciate so as to re- sume operations. Passing outside of the waters of the inland canal into the North Pacific, rich mineral indications are found along the coast at Lituya bay. Rich deposits of rub}^ and black sand stretch along the coast for many miles towards Kakutat. The quality of the gold found in this region is fine, but amalgamates readily, and is easily saved by careful sluicing. Although there has been considerable work in this region at placer mining during the past four or five years, there seems to be quite an extensive range of country yet unworked, or, for that matter, unprospected. Prac- tical miners who have investigated this portion of the coast believe that a rich and extensive mining section will here be opened up. There is no doubt that gold exists in Cook inlet, but to what extent remains to be determined. The early Russian settlers are known to have worked at placer mining at Cook inlet, but as yet prospecting to any great extent has not been done in this region. For the past four or five 5-ears prospecting has been carried on at Unga, on the island of that name, and the work has been thorough and extensive. A ten stamp mill was first erected, and last year the capacity increased to forty stamps, and the Alaska Commercial Company, who own the property, feel satisfied that they have a mine which it will take many years to exhaust, and that will prove a paying investment. This section of Alaska has every indication of rich mineral deposits, but when it is con- sidered that the white settlements are very scarce, the means of communication with the outside world very uncertain, and the cost of provisions and supplies very expensive, it is not to be 36 ALASKA. wondered that .so little has been done and so little known of the resources of this vast countr5^ At Golofnin bay, Norton sound, some ten years ago, indica- tions of rich galena deposits were found. The discoverer returned to San Francisco with a few samples of the ore, the assay of which proved to be very rich. A schooner was fitted out and sent there the following season, and in due time was loaded down with the ore; but soon after leaving the bay a severe storm was encountered, and when last seen by the natives on shore she was laboring in a heavy sea, and nothing more was ever heard of her. Subsequently another vessel was fitted out and considerable ore was taken to San Francisco, which proved so rich that a com- pan}' was organized and in 1 891-2 $60,000 was expended on the mine. Another large quantity of ore was shipped to San Fran- cisco, which proved to be as rich as any heretofore taken from this mine, but on account of difficulty among the members of the company work on the property was abandoned. It is understood, however, that the qualit}' and quantity of ore found here are sufficient to pay a handsome profit for its shipment to San Fran- cisco, even at the present price of this metal. It is expected the company will resume operations on an extensive scale this coming season. The only indications of mineral to any extent north of this point are those reported by Lieutenant Stone}-, who spent two or three 3'ears in the region of Kotzebue sound some years ago; he having found gold along the Selawik and Buckland rivers. Last summer the author saw an Eskimo near Fort Mor- ton who had in his possession fully an ounce of course gold, tied up in seal skin, which he had found on the Kowak river. Southeastern Alaska is well timbered, the prevailing varieties being spruce and hemlock, red and yellow cedar. The spruce and hemlock found here are usually of large size, often a hun- dred feet high and six and aight feet in diameter. The yellow cedar is a beautiful wood, admitting high polish, and isespeciallj^ adapted for manufacture of furniture. It may easily take the place of mahogau}' and other tropical and sub-tropical woods. The yellow cedar grows many feet in height, straight and clear, without any defect whatsoever. The wood, when poli.shed, pre- sents a beautiful yellowish hue and is hard and compact, though easily worked. Little is known of the extent of the yellow cedar, l)ut no doubt explorations will discover considerable areas MINERAL AND TIMBER. 37 of this valuable wood. From vSitka westward, the forests become scrubby and the timber small in size, but alder and willow are found in many places. The timber line extends to a height of about fifteen hundred feet. The timber along the lower portion of the Yukon is composed principally of willow, alder and cotton- wood. Towards Norton sound, it grows to a fair size. Spruce is also found, as a rule, on most streams emptying into the Yukon river and Bering's sea. The rivers entering the Arctic as far north as latitude sixty-seven degrees are more or less timbered with the same variety. Along Wood river there are some fine groves of large spruce timber, and back in the interior, and along the banks of the rivers and on level stretches of country, fir tim- ber is also found to considerable extent. Dwarf-spruce, cotton- wood, alder and willow, are also found in the Nushagaic and Kuskoqum regions. The willow usually found along the coast west of Mt. St. Elias is scrubby, but in the moraines of that mountain and along the delta of the Copper river it grows to a height of fifteen or twenty feet. In the vicinity of the Noatuk river, in latitude sixty-seven degrees north, spruce, birch and Cottonwood are found of a stunted growth, fit only for fire wood and the construction of log houses. In the Yukon country, from Five Fingers all the way to Koserefski mission, on the Yukon, the timber growing along the banks is principally willow, alder and spruce, the latter being the prevailing variety. It is generally scrubby but many good sized trees are found. The islands in the river from Five Fingers to the mouth of the Yukon are generally well timbered, the larger islands being better wooded than the main land. The coal resources of Alaska are lying dormant because the time does not seem to have arrived for the necessity of the opening up of the mines. A number of small veins or seams have been found on several of the islands in the Southeastern Alaskan country. Those which, perhaps so far have attracted the most attention, are on Chicagofif island near Killisnoo, where every indication promises an extensive deposit. All the]^coal found in Alaska is bituminous, and of a very good quality. Deposits have been found on the headwaters of the Chilkat river, Lituya baj^ Cook inlet, Uuga island and Port Mollar. The most extensive coal fields or deposits are in the Cook inlet countrj^ ^cropping out on the beaches, and along many of the streams. Unga island has three distinct veins of coal extending a distance of two miles 38 ALASKA. Upon the sides of the mountains, each of them being several feet thick. Some work has been clone here within the last few years and government vessels have experimented with the coal, but find it contains a considerable amount of ashes and clinker. Doubtless when a greater depth is reached it will improve in quality. North of Unga island, about ten miles inland from Stepovak bay, is a trail or portage about ten miles long leading to Herendeen ba}-, at Port Mollar, on the Bering sea side. An excellent quality of coal is found here in large quantities. The Alaska Commercial Compan}^ the principal owners of the mine, have shipped considerable coal to their station at Unalaska ; and its quality, both for steaming and house purposes, is found to be superior to that found at Unga. Extensive coal fields exist at Cape Li.sburne, on the Arctic side, extending for thirty or forty miles parallel with the coast and for a number of miles back into the interior. It is of a lignite character, and the gov^ernment vessels Corwin and Thetis have taken coal for steaming purposes from here, and have found an excess of ash and clinker, which seems to be the general fault with all coal thus far discovered in Alaska. Strong indications of petroleum are found back from the coast a few miles, in this cold Arctic region, and also between Icy bay and Cape Yaktaga. On the North Pacific coast, west of Yakutat bay, there are ex- tensive deposits or indications of petroleum. Practically all the coal used by vessels navigating the Alaskan waters and in the mills and towns of Alaska is brought from the Puget Sound country and British Columbia. It is bought at the mines for about three dollars per ton, and the expense of shipping to the Southern Alaska ports is five or six dollars per ton. The expense of opening up a coal mine is so great that until there is a large demand in Alaska, it is doubtful if any of the mines will be worked. CHAPTER V. FISHERIES. "T^HE fish industry of Alaska is destined to assume immense proportions. Upon the authority of Professor Bean, of the United States Fish Commission, more than one hundred va- rieties of fish are found in the Alaskan waters. Sal- mon, ranking first in im- portance, is found in great numbers in the streams from the lower extremity of South- east Alaska to the Arctic ocean. The most favored varieties are those known as the red or silver salmon, weighing from eight to twelve or fifteen pounds each, and the king salmon often weigh- ing as high as fifty pounds. The latter variety is found only in a few localities in Southeast Alaska and in the Yukon, many miles above its mouth. It is said that specimens have been caught weighing over one hundred and twenty pounds. The first salmon cannery in Alaska was erected in 1878, and at the present time there are thirty-six, most of them are in operation each season. The growth of this industry was extremely rapid, canneries being constructed at a cost of from fifty thousand to one hundred and twenty thousand dollars each. Enormous profits gave rise to much speculation, but it was found that the supply of canned salmon when the canneries were run at their fullest capacity was too great for the demand. In 1892, a combination or trust was formed, which resiilted in closing down several canneries, but the owners came into a gen- 40 ALASKA. eral pool and received a pro rata interest in the proceeds arising from the packs of the canneries in operation. Some of these can- neries have a capacity of from forty thousand to sixty thousand cases each year, and when it is understood that a single case contains four dozen one pound cans, and that in the year 1889 the combined pack of all the canneries was nearly seven hundred thousand cases, an idea can be formed of the vast number of salmon caught. It is unusual for more than one establishment to be found on any salmon stream, but at Karluk, on the northwest side of Kadiak island, a small stream not exceeding sixty feet wide at its mouth, there are five canneries, and the salmon seem inex- haustible. The river at its mouth, and for a long distance out into the salt water, during the spawning season, when the salmon are on their wa}^ to the lakes above for the purpose of depositing their eggs, seems to be fairly swarming with these fish. Thej^ fill the water to such extent as to almost dam it up, and those below, in their eagerness to ascend the river, crowd those on top so that their fins and part of their body are exposed to view. The first season I beheld the sight I thought an appropriate name would be the " River of Life." While it will not be fair to charge these canning companies with being directly antagonistic to the settlement and develop- ment of Alaska, it is true that their influence has alwa^'S been exerted in that direction. It has been the practice of these cor- porations to bring all their help from outside the territory. Not only are their fishermen brought from the Pacific coast States, but the entire canning force — and each establishment employs from forty to seventy-five men — are Chinamen. There are two exceptions, however, where the natives do most of the work of canning salmon, namely, at Klawak and New Metlakahtla. It requires no special skill to catch salmon, yet it has been the custom of these canneries to bring white men into the country in the spring, for the purpose, and take them back to their home when the fishing season ended. It has been also the practice to pay the men for their season's work after they have reached their homes, thus, not only taking the product of the streams away without paying a dollar for it, but depriving the territory of the benefit resulting from the labor therein, which would con- tribute in no small way to the support and upbuilding of the country. If these industries would employ white men altogether FISHERIES. 41 it would bring into the countr}^ manj^ who might identify them- selves with it in some waj'-, during the months the canneries are idle. Again, in the packing of salted salmon, the interests of the countr}^ are not considered. Fully seven thousand barrels, each weighing two hundred pounds, are prepared for the market each year. In the preparation of salmon an enormous quantit}' of boxes are used, but the sawmills of the territory are not patronized. For the material is imported and the boxes are put together as they are needed, though they might be manufactured in the coun- try of as good quality of timber, at less cost, than they are fur- nished under the present system. Southeast Alaska is covered with a dense growth of spruce, hemlock and cedar, which should be a source of income and a means of employment for a large number of men, but it is Ijnng dormant because one of the great industries of the territory does not deem it proper to encourage manufactures within its borders. The liberty these canneries take in catching fish without re- striction is a feature of this subject which is liable to be of great importance to the people who will in time inhabit Alaska, as well as to the many thousands of natives, who have, from the earliest periods, subsisted upon fish food. Restriction should have been imposed upon them a number of years ago. Some of the can- neries have erected traps at the mouths of the different streams, and few salmon are permitted to escape. It will not be .difficult to understand, therefore, that in a few years streams thus ob- structed must become exhausted, unless some means are adopted to prevent this wholesale destruction. Two years ago Congress passed a bill forbidding the construc- tion of traps, and sending officers into the territory to execute the law, but failing to make an appropriation, of course the law was inoperative. Alaskan codfish iudustr}' promises to become extensive in the near future. Cod are found in large quantities along the Aleutian chain of islands, as far west as the Alexandria archipelago, and in a general way they may be said to exist along the whole south- ern coast of Alaska. In the vicinity of the Kadiak group of islands, and still further south to the Sim.eonoff", and at the Shumagin group, about the islands of Magipopf and Unga, cod are found in great abundance. In Bering sea, towards the lower Siberian shore, they are also 42 ALASKA. found in large quantities. Two San Francisco firms are the only parties engaged in the catching and shipment of cod at the pres- ent time, but the)' seem to have developed the business sufficiently to meet the demand, for they have a number of vessels each season employed in the traffic. The manner of fishing is usually from dories. The fishermen are paid at the rate of $25 for every thousand fish caught, and they are to measure at least twenty- six inches in length. If smaller fish are accepted^ saj^ measuring from twenty-four to twenty-six, two fish are counted as one. So it will be seen, that these fish are caught with considerable ease and in great quantities, in order to pay the fishermen $50 per month, the amount they expect to make from the cruise. Next in importance to the cod ranks the halibut, which is found in vast quantities in the waters of the inland canal, among the more shallow waters of the North Pacific, and in some por- tions of Bering sea. They often weigh two hundred or more pounds, and one of the pleasures of tourists is catching these fish from the deck of the steamer while lying at some station. The halibut is a staple article of diet, both fresh and dried, with the natives, and it is said that the Alaskan halibut will compare favorably, if they do not excel, those caught on the Atlantic coast. A fishing concern in Sitka has recently put up a limited amount of smoked halibut, and it has proven a most delicious article of food. Very little effort has yet been made to force the sale, but the curing of halibut in this way may ultimatel}- prove one of the leading industries of this country. There are immense schools of herring in most of the inland waters or estuaries of Alaska, and they too form an important element of the food supply of the natives. The greatest supply is found at Killisnoo, on the west side of Admiralty island, where, some twelve years ago, the largest fish oil plant in the world was erected. Herring are caught by means of seins, and a single haul of twenty-five hundred barrels has been taken. After the oil is pressed from the fish, the refuse is put up as a fertilizer and shipped, principally to the Sandwich islands. The oolikon or candle fish are also found in the inland chan- nels, and in some localities of the North Pacific coast They are a species of smelt, and are about eight inches long and almost round. They are so oily, that after being dried, they can be lighted and will burn completel}- up, throwing a glare like a FISHERIES. 43 candle, as their name implies. The natives use these fish in greater numbers perhaps than any other variety. When boiled, they have a delicious flavor and are tender and delightfully sweet. The oil is considered a rare delicacy b}- the natives, and quite an industry is carried on among those living in localities far remote from this fish supply. Most of the varieties of fish found on the Pacific coast, together with clams, mussels, and crabs, are found in great abundance in all the waters of Alaska, but oysters do not exist, probably on account of the low temperature of the water. The species of whale known as the beluga or white grampus is native in the deep waters and has been known to ascend some of the larger rivers. The skin of this mammal is employed by the natives in the manufacture of rope, straps and soles of boots. The hair seal are found in great numbers in the waters throughout the whole territory, and, as is well known, constitute the principal food supply of the natives, and especially is this true in the northern waters. They delight to frequent the waters of Glacier bay, and the natives hunt them much easier among the bergs of ice than in the waters of the ocean. A white cloth is spread over the bow of the canoe, giving it the appearance of a piece of ice, and the natives dressed in jacket and hat of the same material, paddling among the ice, thus they are often enabled to get within arms length of their prey before it detects the deception. The walrus, a native of Bering sea and the Arctic, travels in herds, and in the long days of summer may be seen in large numbers lying lazil}- on the ice. The skin of this animal is used by the natives as covering for their boats, and the tusks are worked up into implements of the chase and hunt, but it is fast disappearing before civilization. Whale are found in all the deep waters, and even in the inland passages they may be seen sporting. It is not uncommon for schools of the black whale to be seen from the decks of the tour- ist steamers. While they cannot be properl}' considered as one of the resources of Alaska, still in the northern or Arctic region, they have formed one of the most important food supplies of the natives, but they are now becoming scarce. As on account of the high price of bone, whale hunting with steam vessels has been prosecuted with vigor, and in a few years they are destined to become extinct. 44 ALASKA. Upwards of seventy-five vessels are now engaged in the whaling bnsiness, and they mnst penetrate several miles above Bering strait before they encounter an 5^ of them. The business is hazardous and great risks must be run. In the summer of 1877 nearly fifty vessels were lost, and a number of crews perished, preferring to remain on the vessels rather than risk making their way across the sea to land. This catastrophe led the government to establish a rescue station at Point Barrow, the most northern point of Alaska, which is provisioned with sup- plies sufficient to last one hundred men a year. It is in charge of a government official whose duty it is to render aid and succor to shipwrecked sailors. CHAPTER VI. ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. T^HE head of steamboat navigation is at Ty-a, at the extreme northern point of what is known as the Chilkoot inlet branch of Lynn canal. The distance from salt water to the lakes or headwaters of the Yukon river, on the other side of the mountain range, is about twenty-seven miles. The usual place for laying in supplies for a trip into the in- terior is at Juneau, where the route to the gold fields of the Yukon may be said to commence. The quantity of supplies must be determined by the size of one's purse, but in no case should the journey be attempted without a supply sufficient to last at least two months. The fol- lowing list is about the assortment one needs: Flour, bacon, baking powder, beans, dried fruit, desiccated vegetables, butter, sugar, condensed milk, tea, coffee, salt, pepper, matches, mus- tard, cooking utensils, dishes, sheet-iron stove, woolen blankets, rubber blankets, oilskin bags, tools for boat building, such as jack-plane, whipsaw, draw-knife, axe, hatchet, pocket rule, nails, oakum, pitch, rope, mosquito netting, rubber boots, snow glasses, and medicines. T5"-a affords the last opportunity for purchasing supplies for several hundred miles. This point may be reached either on the mail steamer to Chilkat, and thence by small boat to Ty-a, a journey of about twenty-five miles; or direct from Juneau by small sailing craft or steamers that make trips as often as there are passengers to carry. Miners generally employ natives to pack supplies across the mountain, the usual charge for this work being from $12.00 to $14.00 per one hundred pounds, and the distance is about twenty- seven miles. This great expense renders it advisable to carry only such supplies as will last during the trip. For manj^ years the Alaska Commercial Company have had 46 ALASKA. trading posts at Fort}' Mile and other points, but the emigration has been so great within the past three years that a new company known as the North American Trading and Transportation Com- pany, established quarters a half mile north of Forty Mile called Fort Cudahy, and the competition between the two companies has very much reduced the expense of living in the interior. The most favorable time for going into the interior is before the snow melts from the mountains, which does not occur until about the middle of April. The abrupt passages and what is known as the Summit, are better accomplished by hauling sup- plies on sleds. After the summit is passed, if the journey is con- tinued before the ice breaks up, it often happens that long distances may be made by means of sails raised on improvised masts on the sled. The sledge should be about seven feet four inches long, seven inches high and sixteen inches wide, of strong but light timber, and the runners shod with either brass or steel, the former being preferable, because the sled will glide over the snow more smoothly in intensely cold weather, while steel is inclined to grind and lug very much as if it were being hauled over sand. When the weather is cold, if water is taken into the mouth and held a moment, then blown over the runner, a coating will immediately form, and if this process is repeated when it becomes a little worn off, one will be surprised to find how much smoother and easier the sled will draw. It is preferable to use the Eskimo mode of making sledges for Yukon traveling. They use no nails or bolts, binding the joints together with strong cords. There is much less danger in breaking, if made in this way, should the sled be overturned, as the joints will yield when thus tied together. After the ice has disappeared canoes are used for the first six miles after leaving Ty-a, From this point the route lies through what is known as the canyon. Quite a steep ascent is made until Sheep Camp is reached. Here a rest is taken to await favorable weather before attempting a passage over the summit, about eight miles further up the rugged sides of the mountain, and the most difficult and tedious part of the journey. From the summit to the head of L,akeL,inderman, nine miles must be traveled. It is down grade, and practically easy to accomplish with snow on the ground, but when bare it is quite difficult on account of rocks and boulders. This portion of the route is easily accomplished by following the canyon. Lake Linderman, the first water reached after passing over ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 47 the summit, is one of a chain of lakes and streams called by the miners the "headwaters of the Yukon," though British authori- ties describe them as the headwaters of I^ewis river. The timber in this locality is sparse, of a poor qualit)^ and suitable only for rafts. A raft should be constructed in a manner that will afford protection from water a foot or more above the sides, otherwise the supplies are liable to be damaged, and they should be carefully enclosed in oilskin sacks at the outset of the journey. ' From the head of Lake Linderman, on both sides to Lake Bennett, the general character of the country is mountainous, with narrow benches skirting the shore. The distance across Lake I^inderman is nearly five miles, and from the foot of this lake about fifty yards of a portage is made of the one mile river. to Lake Bennett, because this stream is very crooked and full of rocks, making boat passage difficult and dangerous. At the head of Lake Bennett, there are high mountains on both sides, but they begin to flatten out toward the foot of the lake. This journey, a distance of twenty-four miles, may be continued by a raft or by ascending a river, small in size, which enters the lake from the west. Here timber suitable for boat building is to be found. The right-hand side of Lake Bennett should be fol- lowed until Cariboo crossing is reached. At this crossing, which is really the connecting w^ater between Lake Bennett and Lake Tagish, for a distance of two miles a trail used by bands of cariboo can be traced along the foothills, hence the name. From Cariboo crossing past the main channel to head of Tagish lake keep left- hand shore to foot, a distance of nineteen miles. Lake Marsh, or Mud lake, is connected with Tagish lake by a wide river with a slow current, whose banks are bordered with low-lying slopes, timbered by cotton wood and white spruce. The distance is six miles, and in some places»the water is verj- shallow. The trav- eler should follow the left bank of Lake Marsh into the river connecting this with Lake Le Barge, keeping on the right-hand side, to the head of the canyon twenty five miles below. If a man is a skillful navigator he can run his boat through the can- yon a distance of three-fourths of a mile and land on the right- hand side. If not, he had better make a portage. From this point he should follow the left-hand side two miles to the head of White Horse rapids, and land on the left-hand side. Great caution should be exercised in reaching the point where the land- 4S ALASKA. ing is made this side of the White Horse. Through the White Horse one-half mile, in a low stage of water, the boat can be dropped with a line, but if the water is high, a portage of about one hundred yards must be made, and on the last pitch of the can3-on another short portage of about one hundred feet will be necessar}'. From this point there is an open river to Lake Le Barge. From the head to the foot of Lake Le Barge is a distance of about thirt3'-one miles and it averages five miles wide. The boat should be headed right straight for an island near the center of the lake and, if the weather is favorable, cross from island to right- hand side of lake. From the island, the traveler should cross to the left-hand side of the lake if windy, and it is better to follow close to the shore. From the foot of Lake Le Barge to the mouth of the Hootalinqua river, about thirty miles, the water is very swift with many rocks, and extreme caution should be observed in navigating this portion of Thirty Mile river. From this point it is clear sailing for one hundred and thirty-three miles to Five Fingers, so-called because of five columns of rock which partly obstruct the river, and whose outline resemble the fingers of the human hand. Five or six miles before reaching Five Fingers, the current becomes much swifter, and high hills hug the shore. The right-hand bank should be followed closely ; otherwise, the bend curves so sharply that Five Fingers would be reached and a landing could not be effected. This landing should be made twenty yards above Five Fingers in an eddy, and if the boat is heavily loaded it should be lightened before attempting to pass. The run should then be made, landing on the right-hand side. Following the right hand shore all the way for about five miles, Rink rapids, one and a half miles in length (caused by a chain of rocks reaching nearly across the river), are reached. The right-hand side or east shore must be followed closely all the way. From this point the river is easy to navigate to its mouth. About fifty-five miles below the foot of Rink rapids, old P'ort Selkirk is reached. It is situated near the confluence of Pelly and Lewis rivers. Here a trading post is run by an old- timer named Harper, and this is also a winter port for steam- boats plying on the Yukon and its tributaries. The fort was pillaged and burned by coast Indians in 1853, and ruins of what once were chimneys only being seen. From old Fort Selkirk the river has a uniform width, contains Yukon Miners Sledding Over Route. Winter & Pond, Photo, Juneau, Alaska ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 49 mail}' islands, aud the country through which it runs is well tim- bered for some distance. The White river, a large stream hav- ing a ten or twelve mile current, comes roaring down from the west ninety-five miles from Selkirk. This river gets it name from the appearance of its waters which are of a muddy white hue. It is supposed to have its source in a number of high mountains and lakes to the west. Near its source, the Indians say, there is an active volcano which they call Smoky Mountain. The Yukon rapidly widens after being joined by the White river, and becomes a mile wide, islands dot its surface at frequent intervals, and the valley, too, becomes broader as if in sympathy with the river. Ten miles below the White, the Stewart river enters from the east. Its waters dark and deep are bordered by rugged hills which here and there assume the proportion of mountains. Miners are found on many parts of this river and its hundreds of miles of tributaries and gulches, many of which are unprospected It is probably four hundred miles in length. About seventy miles below the mouth of Stewart river. Sixty Mile creek, the next place of note, comes in from the west. It has a trading post and a sawmill, and is the headquarters of some five score miners who generally spend the winter months there. It has a swift current, and is filled with rapids, and is therefore not easy of ascent. Below Sixty Mile creek the Yukon becomes placid and the number of islands increase. The valley narrows, and the hills become more abrupt, while on ever}^ hand abundant evidence of quartz croppings can be obtained. The next stream of note is the Forty Mile creek which flows into the Yukon a few miles west of the boundary line. At the junction of Forty Mile creek with the Yukon, is located almos-t within the shadow of the Arctic Circle, the Alaska Com- mercial Company's station, Forty Mile. It has been for a num- ber of years under the control of a man known by every person who has passed through the valley of the Yukon as "Jack" McOuestion. Of marked ability, and a man of the world, he has been the mainstay, the guide, the philosopher and friend of the miners, and is held by them in high esteem. Many an unfortu- nate prospector is aided by him, and seldom does he refuse an appeal for credit. A genial, friendly disposition, with a heart "as big as an ox," he is ever ready to extend a helping hand, 4 50 ALASKA. and all that is necessary to get a supply of food is to show a disposition to work. The town has a population of five or six hundred, and besides the Alaska Commercial Company's store, which, at the opening of the season carries a stock of goods valued at $125,000, there are restaurants, billiard halls, several saloons, an opera house, barber shops, and the town boasts of the finest residence in a region embracing three hundred thousand square miles of territory. It is a two-story Iniilding owned b}- Joseph Cooper, an old Colorado miner, and cost $3,000. The price of restaurant board is $12 per week, and whisky costs $9 a gallon, or fifty cents per glass over the bar. "This town on the Yukon," says a recent writer, " is an ideal '49 min- ing camp ; its saloons, gambling houses, concert halls, etc., give it an air of bustling activity, from which, however, the element of outlawr}^ is almost entirely eliminated. Miners' law prevails, and justice is fairly and impartiall}^ administered. The entire Yukon valley bears an enviable reputation for peace and mor- ality. Simple, but effective self adopted rules of goverment are found amply sufficient to insure order, and the}' are universally respected." About three-fourths of a mile below Forty Mile post, is a new and enterprising town named after Cudahy, so well known through- out the countr}' as the packer of meats, and who is a member of the North American Transportation and Trading Conipau}-, bet- ter known in the Yukon valley as " Captain Healy's Company." This post was established in the summer of 1892. In size, population, and general business activity, and in the volume of business done, it is a duplicate of its neighbor. Captain Heah- has established a number of posts on the river not heretofore covered by the Alaska Commercial Company. It is safe to say that these two concerns will control, for a long time, the major ponion of the traffic of this country. Captain Healy is one of the best known pioneers of Alaska, having established and done a large business for a number of years, principally with the natives at the head of the Chilkoot arm of Lynn canal, where he established the trading post known as Ty-a. The able assistant in the management of Fort Cudah}', Mr. Charles Hamilton, went into this far off coun- tr}' fresh from one of the government departments at Washington. In the fall of 1892, the company's river boat was detained by ice at Xulato, a short distance above the mouth of the Yukon. It became necessar\' to communicate with the head office at Chicago, ■t/r '^ A v^ ^^v.^^ ■#■ ■v». ,-^' Yukon Minp:rs Packing Over Route. Winter & Pond, Photo, Juneau, Alaska. ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 51 and Mr. Hamilton undertook to make the trip the whole length of this river with dogs ; in about four months he succeeded in reaching the coast at the head of Lynn canal. It was a most remarkable trip ; and he is the only man who is entitled to the credit of having, — as a newspaper saw fit to express it, — "split the continent squarely in two." The next spring he went over- land to Forty Mile, w^here he met the boat on its up trip, and the following winter, he again made the trip to the coast, traveling with a dog sledge all the wa^'. About one hundred and seventy miles from Forty Mile, to the west, the Yukon flats are encountered, and just within them is located a new mining camp called Circle City, which was founded in the fall of 1S94. ^^ is the distributing point for the vast regions surrounding Birch creek, which flows into the Yukon two hundred and twenty-five miles below. Circle City has been platted into streets, and a recording office for this mining district is located here. Six miles westward from Circle City a portage of six miles carries the traveler to Birch creek, nearh- two hundred miles above its mouth. The territorj' drained by the Yukon river in every direction, for three or four hundred miles in this region, is low country, called the Yukon flats. These flats, whose extent is not known, are supposed by miners and others to have at one time formed the bed of a vast lake. The principal tributar}^ of the Yukon, below Birch creek, is the Tanana river, probably eight hundred miles in length, and having a number of other streams of considerable size flowing into it. The Tanana drains the countr}- stretching from the head of the river and the Yukon, to the White river on the south. This river has been very slightly explored, and little is known of it, or of the natives who inhabit its banks. They are, how- ever, reported by the few venturesome prospectors who have made their way into this section to be rather ill-disposed. Nuklukyeto is located at the junction of the Tozikakat river with the Yukon, where the Alaska Commercial Companj- have a trading post which was established a number of years ago. About five hundred and fifty miles below the Tanana the waters of the Koyukuk river joins the Yukon from the north. Below the Koyukuk river, the onl}' streams of any importance that empty into the Yukon are the Innoko, coming in from the 52 ALASKA. south, and the Anvik, about thirty miles further down, which enters from the north. The only station at which the ocean steamers land having freight or passengers for the upper Yukon, is St. Michael's. This has been the principal trading post of the Alaska CoQimer- cial Company, and the outfitting post for their stations on the river, for the past twent}- years. It is located about sixty miles to the north of the usual entrance to the Yukon, on what is known as St. Michael's island. The question is often asked why a location for a town has not been made nearer the mouth of the river, and thus obviating the necessity of the river boats steaming out into the open waters of Bering sea to take on their freight. So far as is known, there is not a suitable location where the high water, on the breaking up ■of the ice in the river, does not overflow. The Yukon is very shallow at its mouths, eight feet being the greatest depth found. The ice passes out of the Yvikon, and leaves it free for naviga- tion, about the middle of June, but it is not clear for an approach to St. Michael's until several days later. If a station could be located within easier access to the river, it would afford an opportunity to get to the headwaters earlier. St. Michael's is, strictly speaking, a native town. Aside from the buildings and store of the Alaska Commercial Company and the residences of its employes, a church building and the residence of its pas- tor, the houses and residences are those of the natives. Enor- mous supplies of goods are .shipped here every year for the trading posts and missions on the river, and during the two months at the opening and closing of the season, it pre- .sents an air of bustle and business activity rarely found at any of the frontier Alaska towns. The new company, known as the North American Transportation and Trading Company, are making arrangements to build warehouses and a trading post about a half mile .south of the old town. The Yukon river and its man}- tributaries, a number of which can be navigated by light draft steamers for several hundred miles, traver.se an empire. The Yukon is navigable b}- four hundred-ton stern-wheel boats, drawing four feet of water, for a distance of eighteen hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, or to the mouth of Pelly river. It flows into Bering sea through several different mouths, that farthest north being nearly one hundred miles distant from its most southern artery. Its course Yukon Miners and Natives Packing Over Route. Winter & Pond, Photo, Juneau, Alaska. ROUTE TO THE YUKON RIVER. 53 is westerly, but bends north to the Arctic circle when about mid- way across the territory. At the junction of the Pelly and I^ewis rivers it has an average width of perhaps three-quarters of a mile until it reaches Fort Yukon, where it is about eight miles wide, and again narrows to from two to three miles at the mouth of the Koyukuk river, and maintains this width to Koserefski, from which point it again widens to eight or ten miles, and car- ries this width towards its mouth, then flows into Bering sea through a number of different channels. The navigable tributaries of the Yukon for small, light-draft boats, may be grouped as follows : The Andreafski for fifty miles, Shaghik slough fifty miles, Innoko fifty miles, Tanana three hundred miles, Klanarchargut twenty-five miles, Beaver creek one hundred miles. Birch creek one hundred and fifty miles, Koyukuk river three hundred miles, Porcupine one hundred miles, Stewart five hundred miles, Pelly fifty miles, and the McMillan two hundred miles. While the Yukon is navigable for a distance of one thousand eight hundred and fifty miles with a four hundred ton vessel, a one hundred and fifty ton .steamer with powerful machinery would be enabled to pass through Five Fingers and three hun- dred miles further through Hootalinqua river to the head of Tes- lin lake. CHAPTER VII. THE YUKON GOLD FIELDS. (~^OLD was first discovered in paying quantities in the Yukon basin in iSSi. In that year a party of four miners crossed the range and descended the Lewis river as far as the Big Salmon river, which they ascended for a distance of two hundred miles. Gold was found on all of its bars, man}- of which paid well. In the next three or four years some mining was done on the Pelly and Hootalinqua rivers, and, in 1886, gold in considerable quan- tities was found at Cassiar bar on the Stewart river. The richest, b}- the way, so far located in the Yukon countrj^ yielded as high as one hundred dollars per day to each man. As earh' as i860 men in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company are reported to have found gold in the Yukon basin. Professor Davidson credits George Holt as being the first white man to cross the coast range. A confusion exists as to the time of Holt's journc}', the dates being variousl}- given as 1872, 1874 and 1878. Holt went down the chain of lakes to Lake Marsh or Mud lake, as it is sometimes called, and then followed an Indian trail to the Hootalinqua river, where, he reported upon his return, he had found coarse gold. No coarse gold, however, has since been found on that river, but the bars yield large quantities of flour gold. In 1 880 P^dward Bean led a party of twenty-five men from Sitka to the Hootalinqua river, but met wdtli indifferent success. Other parties also crossed the pass during the same year. The Yukon section may be divided into three divisions, namely, the upper lying entirely within British territory, and embracing the White, Stewart, Pelly, Lewis and Hootalinqua rivers, which together form the headwaters of the main Yukon; the middle division includes Fort Reliance and the country down to the mouth of the Tauana river; the lower division stretches from the movith of the Tanana to Norton Sound and Bering sea. i Si THE YUKON GOLD I'lELDS. 55 It is in the middle division that the recent discoveries have been made; on Fort}- Mile, Sixt}' Mile, Miller, Glacier and Birch creek, and Koyukuk river. Forty Mile and Sixty Mile creeks flow into the Yukon from the west, having their source in the Ratzel mountains, a low, intermediate range running nearly parallel to the Yukon, and forming the divide between the Yukon and Tanana rivers. The streams putting into the Tanana on the west side of this range have not yet been explored; but lower down, along the banks of the Tanana, gold in paying quantities has been found, and a few of the bars worked. Recent estimates of the gold output from the middle division alone, for the past 5'ear, are placed at $200,000; while from $25,000 to $50,000 has been mined in the upper and lower divisions. Miller creek, one of the richest so far discovered in the inte- rior, is a tributary of Sixty Mile creek, entering it about seventy miles from its mouth. It is about seven miles long, and upwards of fift}' mining claims have been located there, but few of them have, as yet, been developed to any considerable extent. Miners prospected this creek at various times for several years, each time abandoning it because the vast accumulations of drift found everywhere made it unprofitable to work. But, in 1892, pros- pecting again began, and many rich strikes were made. One claim alone yielding $37,000 of the yellow metal, and one clean- up of about eleven hundred ounces was reported. One hundred and twenty-fi\'e miners have located on this creek, many of whom own their own claims. The rate of wages here established is ten dollars per day, which is the usual price paid in all the camps. Glacier creek is another branch of Sixty Mile creek being separated from Miller creek about three miles, and runs nearly parallel with it. Claims located on this creek and prospected last season, promise to equal in richness those of INIiller creek, and rich finds have been reported here on claims abandoned by prospectors some time before. The whole creek has been located. The first claims were located the middle of last summer. The gulch is nine miles in length, and varies in width from a mile and one-half at its mouth to sixt}^ feet at the head. The pro.spects on Glacier creek are even better than those on Miller creek, the dirt jdelding from a few cents to four dollars to the pan. Mining Recorder Paddock, of Glacier creek, .speaks as 56 ALASKA. follows of a trip made in the dead of winter from Forty Mile post: "I started on January the third from Fort)' Mile for Miller creek, distant about sixty-five miles, and arrived February 27th. The cold was severe, the thermometer ranging from forty- two degrees to seventy-seven degrees below zero, compelling me to lie in camp for ten days. I drew a sled which carried mj^ small outfit, and meeting many steep and difficult places on the route, across gulches and over ridges, I was compelled on several occasions to divide my load and take it in sections." Another creek, distant about three miles from Miller creek, is named Bed Rock, but as yet has not proved very promising as a mining location. Indian creek flows into the Yukon about thirty miles below Sixty Mile creek. Here rich gold discoveries were reported last year. The stream is rapid, but shallow, but prospectors have ascended it a distance of over one hundred miles. Forty Mile creek is more familiarly known to the miners of Alaska, and perhaps to the people at large, than any other min- ing locality in the territory. Its bars have yielded large returns, but these diggings are practically abandoned for the gulches and ravines that furnish coarser gold. It is about two hundred miles long, and its tributaries are numerous. Entering the Yukon from the west, it drains the countr}^ b'ing between the Yukon and Tanana rivers. It was not discovered until 1887, and was the scene of the first real excitement in the valley of the Yukon. This stream enters that river from the W2st in about sixty-four de- grees north latitude and about one hundred and forty-one degrees west longitude. Its mouth is in Canadian territory. The first news of gold being found here was brought to the coast bj^ a man named Tom Williams, who was the bearer of letters to "Jack " McQuestion, of the Alaska Commercial Company's trading post at the junction of Forty Mile creek with the Yukon, who was then in San Francisco, advising him of the discovery, and instructing him to ship in a larger supply of provisions in antici- pation of a rush to the new Eldorado the following spring. Wil- liams was accompanied by an Indian boy with a dog team and sled. They had an extremel}' rough trip up the river. It was in the dead of winter and the cold was intense. Before reaching Lake Bennett the dogs all died from cold and exhaustion. At the summit of Chilkoot pass a fearful storm arose, and the strug- gling travelers were compelled to hastily build a snow hut in THE YUKON GOIvD FIELDS. 57 which they remained ten da}'S, living on a little dry flour, the only thing left them in the way of provisions. Both men were badly frost-bitten, and upon attempting to resume the journe}^ it was found that Williams was unable to travel. Nothing daunted, the j^oung Indian took his companion on his back and, struggling through drifts and blinding snow, succeeded in reaching Ty-a, sixteen miles distant. A few days later Williams died, but not until he told Captain Healy of the strike at Forty Mile, and of his mail pouch containing his letters which was left at the snow hut at the summit, where it was afterward recovered. In the following spring active mining operations began, and, it is estimated, that since that time upwards of half a million dol- lars in gold have been taken out of Forty Mile creek, and the small feeders running into it. On Forty Mile nearly all the available rich ground has been worked out, but there are many high bars along the stream known to be rich, which have not as yet been touched, because of the difiiculty of getting water through them, and the frozen condition of the ground. Birch creek, the scene of the latest strikes and excitement in the Yukon country, runs parallel with the Yukon on the west, for over three hundred miles, and as elsewhere related, has a remarkable feature of a portage only six miles across between this and the Yukon, two hundred miles above its confluence with that stream, so a trip by water by one terminal of the portage to the other involves a journey of four hundred miles. Here on the Yukon side of the gatewa}' to the Birch creek mines, is Circle City, and at the close of the season last fall, fully three hundred miners were to be found in the difierent gulches, many of whom intended to spend the winter drifting, and opening up their claims. Ned Ayleward, a Birch creek miner, in describing the gold discoveries there, says : • ' In coarse gold I got as high as thirteen dollars to the pan. The gold is like pumpkin seeds, but some pieces weigh from three to ten dollars, and I think I will make from forty to fifty dollars per day, when I have my claim opened up. In prospecting, I would get from fifteen to twenty dollars, under a little stone on bed rock. I did not leave Juneau broke, for in that case I would have had to rustle for a " grub stake," and in all probability would not have made this strike. I have seen no quartz claims here that amount to anything, but am on the look out for them," 58 ALASKA. Here are extensive auriferous deposits, and the creeks and bars adjacent to Birch creek have been more or less thoroughly prospected, with the result that this section bids fair to become a vigorous gold-producing rival of the famed Forty Mile district. One of the principal tributaries to Birch creek is Crooked creek, and from Circle City a trail leads over the hills to the mines on Independence and Mastodon creeks. On Molymute, a branch of Birch creek, gold was first dis- covered in 1893, and since that time it has been found on tribu- tary streams. Birch creek has been explored for upwards of three hundred and fifty miles, and the entire distance is filled with rapids and canyons. The South Fork drains the countrj^ lying at the head of Seventy Mile creek. Many claims were staked off last year at Mastodon, Independence, and other streams flowing into Birch creek. These claims are more easily worked than elsewhere on the Yukon and tributaries, from the fact that bedrock appears much nearer the surface, and water is more easily obtained. Some sixty miles below Birch creek portage Preacher creek joins the main stream. This creek is about one hundred and twenty miles long. It has been prospected but little, and not much is known of it, except that as everywhere else in the Yukon basin, gold is found. The headwaters of this creek penetrate a country whose geological formation is very peculiar, showing drift and disturbances which might have been caused by the receding of waters ages ago. Three years ago some rich gold discoveries were made on the Koyukuk river which were prospected vigorously the following year with good results. A number of creeks, namely, North Fork, Wild creek. South Fork, and Fish creek, have also been pros- pected with fairly good success, but no extensive deposits have yet been found. Gold placer mining may be said to end here, as from this point to the mouth of the Yukon, little prospecting has been done. Below the Koyukuk river the only streams of any importance that empty into the Yukon, are the Innoko coming in from the south, and the Anvik from the north, about thirty miles further down. Numerous creeks have been prospected and successfully worked along the branches of the Yukon and other rivers, some of them proving very rich ; and during the past two years richer and more extensive deposits of gold have been found in this country, until to-day, the interior of Alaska is believed by many THE YUKON GOLD FIELDvS. 59 to be the largest placer mining district on this continent. Vari- ous estimates have been made of the amount of gold taken out in the past two years, some of them reaching as high as one mil- lion dollars, but it is doubtful if more than half that amount has been found. A number of miners have taken out as high as $12,000 or $15,000, but, with few exceptions, these amounts were not washed out b}- individual miners, but b}' the combined work of several men. In another chapter reference is made to the climatic conditions existing in Alaska. The difference in climate between the coast country and that of the interior is very marked. All along the Kuskoquim river, during the summer months, there is an ex- cessive fall of rain, while in the interior it is very dry. Refer- ence has also been made to the condition of the ground in the interior, and it is from the fact that the frozen earth extends to a depth of many feet below the surface, that placer mining in the interior is very difficult. The surface of the ground is covered with moss often to the depth of eighteen inches, and the hot rays of the sun during the long days of summer are not able to penetrate sufficiently to thaw the ground underneath. It is only where the moss is stripped, and the bare surface is reached by the sun's rays, that it thaws to any extent. This method is often resorted to by the miners, in order to get the ground in readiness for their sluicing work. The ice does not usually pass out of the Yukon until the first or middle of June, but when it starts, it goes quickl}-, and miners are soon hard at work, digging into the bars and working their sluices. As early as the middle of September the sun becomes so low that the air is chilly, and in a few days ice forms, so that further working of the ground must be abandoned until the following year. It must be remembered, however, that although one cannot depend upon much more than two months in which to work the ground, yet, from about the middle of June until the first of August, it is daylight, and the sun shines almost continually. Thus, what is lost in the length of the season is, in a measure, made up in the length of the day; and, if a man can stand the severe physical strain he must undergo, he can put many more hours in here than in placer mining camps in other parts of the country; and if his claim proves sufficientl}' rich to enable him 6o ALASKA. to pay for hired help, darkness never interferes with work, for by running two or three shifts each day, he can work his mine, and have dayHght to do it in, nearly the entire season. The complaint has always been made by miners, in the Yukon, and by those who know of the difficulties that beset prospectors in that country, that several months in the year are lost, and when the season closes nothing can be done but while away the time in visiting neighbors, making trips to the native settle- ments, or in hunting. But the happy thought came to .some one to spend some of the time in summer prospecting and finding favorable locations; and in the winter to make fires upon the surface, thus thawing the ground until bedrock was reached, then to drift and tunnel, lifting the dirt to the surface, and piling it up so that when .spring came, and water was to be had, he could wash his dirt and make it profitable. The last season closed with a determination on the part of many to carry out this method; a new impetus was given because several miners who had tried the plan the year previous found that the work thus done in the winter was not a useless expenditure of time and labor. The largest nugget ever found on the Yukon was taken out by one Conrad Dahl, and was found in Franklyn gulch on March A YUKON NUGGET. % Inch Thick. 'Vi^ ^^^ i ^i iNcmiS Thick. Size .^nd Siiai'i;. 26, 1894. It weighed exactly thirt}- ounces before, and twenty- nine and forty-five one hundredth ounces after being melted at ^' ^f^. •^:/r The Canyon, Yukon River. THE YUKON GOIvD FIELDvS. 6i the mint in San Francisco. Dahl had prospected in the vicinity the summer before, and in the winter thawed the ground by burning wood on top, and continued this process until he reached bedrock, hauled the dirt out, and washed it afterwards. The nugget brought four hundred and ninety -one dollars and forty- five cents. The next few years will probably determine whether there are an}- extensive deposits of gold quartz in the interior of Alaska. Most of the men who have gone into the interior have been men of very limited means, and the expense of carrying supplies in from the coast has been so great that their means w^as taxed to the utmost to land at the scene of their labors with food sufficient to last them a single season. It is thus seen that unless a "grub stake," at least, is made before winter sets in, they must go hungry or return to civilization. On this account they have not spent much time looking for quartz. Within the past year companies have been formed and an effort made to test the quartz-bearing capacity' of this country, with a very reasonable prospect that rich and valuable ledges will be found. It is fair to suppose when upon nearly every stream and creek gold is found in greater or less quantities, that somewhere in the mountains, whatever may be the climatic or other conditions that dissolve the ledges and turn the gold loose upon the broad level of the low lands, there must be rich gold quartz. There are instances, and not a few, where men in pros- pecting or working placer mines, have come across boulders or rocks containing gold, but, for the reasons stated above, they were not able to expend the labor necessary to follow up the "float." If the indications of the placer fields mean anything, they suggest that the interior of Alaska is, in a very few years, des- tined to become a great center of quartz mining. Those who have not had personal experience in placer mining cannot realize the fascination which is always with one engaged in this occupation. It is a healthful^ hopeful, rugged and inde- pendent life. The placer miner goes alone into the mountain fastnesses with pick, shovel and pan, far away from every scene •of civilization. He feels a pride in picking out the yellow frag- ments, which he has separated from the dirt by dextrous dipping, gradually letting the gravel run out with the water, while the 5'ellow deposits settles around the edge and gravitates to the 62 ALASKA. bottom of the pan. Beh.re venturing; upon the life, he is naturally overcome with dread of separation from home and friends. He realizes that he is to be deprived of the pleasures of society; per- haps he is leaving a lo\ing wife and children behind, but when once in the field these recollections crowd him on to new life and spur him to renewed efforts. And when, perhaps, he has secured his treasure and returns to find that he has not been forgotten, life seems to open up through a vista of years a new and happy existence. In no place on earth can you find such loyalty to friends, such honor among men, as in the camp of the miner. They are the architects of their own laws, and executioners as well. Their lives develop all the characteristics that go to make up a strong nature, and the dangers with which they come in contact, school them to bear their burdens calmly and to meet peril, or death if need be, with fortitude. r / >■ K CHAPTER VIII. LAND AND vSEA ANIMALS. A LASKA, in a peculiar sense, is the home of fur-bearing animals. It abounds in "fish, flesh and fowl." The bays and inlets teem with aquatic birds and animals, and the land is the home of the bear, wolf, deer, cariboo, moose, fox, wolverine and many others widely distri- buted. Early in the history of the Russian occupancy of Alaska, ■••.''■■ " the sea otter skin traffic, which for a long time had no competitor, began to find a rival of mag- nitude in the fur seal trade. In 1786, the year succeeding the discovery of the Pribilof group of islands, over five hundred thousand fur seals were killed by Russian hunters, and the figures have even been placed as high as two millions. Whether the latter figures are exagger- ated or not, it is true, that twenty years from that time, the fur .seal had almost entirely disappeared from these islands. ]\Iore than half of the skins taken on the Pribilof islands were thrown into the sea in an advanced stage of decomposition, because of careless curing, and the waters were so poisoned as to drive awa}' the seals for several successive seasons. Chinese merchants trading on the vSiberian frontier, j^laced a high value upon these skins, and frequently refused to exchange teas with the Russian traders for any other commodity. When the Russian-American company obtained exclusive control of the Russian possessions in America, the fur seals were so nearly destroyed that, for a time, the new company's traffic was quite 64 ALASKA. insignificant. Prompt and efficient remedy was at once applied, by prohibiting the killing of seals for five j^ears, from 1807 to 181 2. At the expiration of that time the shy animals had returned, sufficiently recuperated to afford a continuous and reliable source of revenue. The art of plucking and dying seal skins was invented by the Chinese. The exact date when this process was adopted by the English is unknown, but it occurred some time during the first half of the nineteenth century, as a regular demand for seal skins can be traced from that time. Shipments, directly to New York and London, were inaugurated about 1850, and these shipments continued at the rate of from twenty thousand to sixty thousand skins per annum, until the transfer of the Russian possessions to the United States. When the question of acquiring Russian America was dis- cussed in Congress, no particular stress was laid upon the pros- pective value of the fur seal industry, though it was known to be one of the principal sources of revenue to the Russian- Ameri- can company. During the last decade of Russian ownership the agents in charge of the Pribilof islands reported each j^ear that the fur seals were increasing in such numbers that the rookeries were crowded beyond their capacity. Each report was accom- panied by urgent requests to be permitted to kill more seals, to make room for the increasing millions. The fact that it was pos- sible to continue the slaughter, at the rate of one hundred thousand per annum, for twenty years after our purchase, seems to prove that when the United States acquired these valuable islands, the industry was in as prosperous condition as when dis- covered by Pribilof in 1786. The radical restrictions of late years limiting the number of seals to be killed annually to one hundred thousand, were based upon careful observations and estimates; but the indiscriminate slaughter inaugurated within the past few years, by sealing ves- sels from British Columbia, which encounter the migrating ani- mals on their way to the breeding grounds, and kill males and females alike, has fully justified the still more radical restrictions since made. The only hauling or breeding grounds of the fur seal known in Alaska are upon the Islands of St. Paul and St. George. On the Otter islands, these animals occasionally haul up, l)ut do not breed. The Pacific and Antarctic oceans have been LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. 65 scoured by sealers and emissaries of trading firms, in search of supposed "winter homes" of the fur seal; but at the present da}' the fact seems to be established, that after leaving their con- fined breeding places, the}- scatter over the broad Pacific to loca- tions where extensive elevations of the bottom of the sea enable them to subsist upon fish until the instinct of reproduction calls them again, from all directions, to their common rendezvous. The killing of fur seals is done altogether on land, and has been reduced, through long observation and practice, to a science. Under the present lease the company has been restricted to kill less than seven thousand five hundred each year; and the only individuals permitted to do the work are the able-bodied Aleutian hunters, now living on the islands, whose ancestors were brought from the Aleutian islands by the Russian government. They receive forty cents per seal. Life-long practice has made them expert in using their huge clubs and sharp skinning knives, both instruments being manufactured expressly for this purpose. These men are proud of their skill as sealers, and will not demean themselves by doing any other kind of work. The labor connected with the killing of seals may be divided into two distinct processes; the separation of the seals of a cer- tain age and size from the main body and their removal to the killing ground; and the final process, of making another sorting among the select, and killing and skinning them. A damp, cloudy day is especially desirable for both driving and killing. The young male seals, to the age of four years, invariably segregate themselves, in the rear of the so-called rookeries — or groups of families — that line the sea shore; and the experienced native crawls in between the families and these "bachelors." This is accomplished without difiiculty, and the animals are driven inland, in droves of from one to three thousand each, very slowly, lest the animals become overheated and injure the quality of their skins. When the slaughter ground is reached, twenty or thirty seals are separated from their fellows, in quick succession, surrounded by their executioners armed with clubs, and the killing begins. The experienced eye of the Aleut quickly discovers if the seal is either under or above the specified age or size, and if such a one be found, he is dismissed, with a gentle tap on the nose, and allowed to make his way to the shore and escape. 5 66 ALASKA. The men with ckibs proceed from one group to another, striking the seals violently on the nose to stun them. Others immediatel}^ follow with long, sharp knives, and stab each stunned seal to the heart, to insure immediate death. Then the skinners come and, with astonishing rapidit}^ divest the carcasses of their rich and valuable covering, leaving, however, the head and flippers intact. Carts, drawn by mules, follow the skinners, and into these the pelts are thrown to be carried away to the salt houses, and salted down for the time being, like fish in barrels. Later, after pressure is applied, they are rolled in bundles of two each, with the fur inside, securely strapped, and are then ready for shipment. The wives and daughters of the sealers linger around the bloody field and reap a rich harvest of luscious blub- ber, carrying it away on their heads and shoulders, the oil drip- ping down over their faces and garments. The sea otter seems to exist chiefly on a line parallel with the Japanese current, from the coast of Japan along the Kurile islands to the coast of Kamchatka, and thence westward along the Aleutian chain, the southward side of the Alaska peninsula, the estuaries of Cook inlet and Prince William sound, thence eastward and southward along the Alaska coast, the Alexander archipelago, British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. But it is Ijecoming scarcer each year, owing to the recklessness with which it has been hunted and killed. Three distinct times, dur- ing the existence of the Russian-American company, their agents LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. 67 in the Kurile islands have reported the sea otter extinct, but each time it has appeared again, after a few years respite from hunting. They change from one feeding ground to another. At the present date, about the Kurile islands and Kamchatka, few are killed annually, and Attu island and several smaller islands, which formerly furnished many hundred sea otter skins every year, now produce less than a dozen skins in the same time. The outlying reefs of Atka, also, once furnished an abun- dant supply of these skins, but are now entirely deserted. From the Island of Unimak eastward, however, sea otter has become more plentiful, and within a radius of fifty miles of the island, about one thousand are taken annually. But the hunting is carried on recklessly by whites and natives alike, with firearms, in direct violation of the law. They are still found in the waters of the Kadiak archipelago, as well as in the southern portion of Cook inlet. The land otter is one of the most widely distributed fur-bearing animals in Alaska, unless we except the fox. Its skin is highly valued, and is now utilized in the manufacture of an imitation seal skin. The land otter is found on the whole coast of Alaska, from the southern boundary to Norton sound. Within the Arctic circle it is confined to the upper portions of the rivers empt3-ing into Kotzebue sound and the Arctic ocean; and it is also found along the whole course of the Yukon, and, as far as known, in nearly all parts of the Alaska peninsula, the Kadiak archipelago, and the coast from Mt. St. Elias to the southern boundary. There has been a great decline, both in the supply and demand for beaver, during the last fifty years. Once it was the most important among the fur-bearing animals of continental Alaska. This animal has frequently suffered from the excessive and pro- longed cold of the Arctic winter, in the interior country north of Cook inlet and the Yukon. The ice in the river and lakes has formed so rapidly, and to such a thickness at times, that the animals found it impossible to keep open the approaches to their dwellings under water, and died of starvation before spring. Hundreds of putrifying carcasses have been found by natives in the beaver lodges. Old beaver dams scattered over the- conti- nental portion of Alaska testify to the former abundance of the animal. Though now hundreds are taken where formerly thou- sands were captured, and notwithstanding the demand has les- sened, the supply has not increased. 68 ALASKA. When the Hudson's Baj^ Company were lords of the entire Northwest American continent, the skins of these animals repre- sented the value of an English shilling, and were used and accepted as common currency. The present price of a beaver skin of average size, in Alaska, is from six to twelve dollars. The Indians of the interior and a few of the Eskimo tribes look upon the flesh of the beaver as a great delicacy. It is a dish which they always set before honored guests, and is also much u.'^ed in festivities. The long incisors of the beaver are made into chisels, small adzes and other tools, for the working of wood and bone. The brown bear, a huge, shaggy animal, is found in nearly ever}' section of the territorj-. The northern limit of its habitat is about sixty-seven degrees north latitude. It prefers an open, swarap}^ country to the timber. The brown bear is an expert fisher, and during the salmon season it frequents all the rivers, and their tributaries, emptying into Bering sea and the North Pacific. At the end of the annual salmon run, it retreats to the tundra, where berries and small game are plentiful This ani- mal has been called the road-maker of Alaska, for not only are swampy plains, leading to the easiest fording places of streams and rivers, intersected by his paths, but the hills and ridges of mountains are also marked by his footsteps. The largest speci- mens are found at Cook inlet. On its west side they can be seen in herds of twenty five or thirty. From the fact that their skins are not very valuable, and also that they are of a fierce disposi- tion, they are little hunted. Before attempting to kill one the' native hunter invariably addresses a few complinientar_v remarks to his intended victim. The Thlinkits liave a tradition, told them by the shamans, that the brown bear is a man who has assumed the shape of an animal. The tradition relates that this secret of nature first became known through the daughter of a chief. The girl went into the woods to gather berries, and incautiously spoke in terms of ridicule of a bear, whose traces she observed in her path. In punishment for her levit}', she was decoyed into the bear's lair and there compelled to marry him and assume the form of a bear herself. After her husband and her ursine child had been killed by her Thlinkit brethren, she returned to her home in her former shape and related her adventures. In deference to this generally received superstition, when the iiati\-es run r.cross War tracks in LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. 69 the woods, they immediately say the most charming and compli- nientary things of bears in general, and their visitor in particular. The black bear generally confines himself to timber and moun- tain regions. It exists on a few islands in Prince William sound, and on Kadiak island, and is found on rivers emptying into the Arctic, and is plentiful southward to the valley of the Yukon. The skins command high prices, and are increasing in value yearly. The animals are shy, and great skill and patience are required to hunt them. Like the brown bear, they are expert fishers, wading into the streams and, as a salmon comes along, they strike with dextrous paw and land their fish on the bank, where it furnishes a toothsome feast. Unlike the brown bear, » however, the natives do not fear them in the least. The glossiest and largest of black bear skins come from the St. Elias Alpine range and Prince William sound, but the black bear never attains the size of his brown relative. The red fox is found in every section of Alaska. In fact, this animal seems omnipresent. It varies in size and in the quality of its fur from a specimen as large as the high-priced Siberian fire fox, to the small, 3'ellow-tinged creature that rambles fur- tively over the rocky islands of the Aleutian chain. Like a poor relation, he mingles persistently with his aristocratic cousins, the black and silver foxes, always managing, in course of time, to deteriorate the blood and tarnish the coat of his richer rela- tive. His diet is heterogenous, fish, flesh and fowl being equally satisfactory to his taste ; nor does he disdain shellfish, mussels, or the eggs of aquatic birds. He is rarely hunted or trapped by the natives, from the fact that his fur is cheap, and they never eat his flesh, except when driven to it from famine. The king of the vulpine familj^ is the black or silver fox. In the mountain fastnesses of the interior, and on the headwaters of the large rivers, he is found in his prime. He is of large size, with long, soft, silkj^ fur, varying in color from the silver tint to the deep jet black, the latter being the most rare and highly prized. They are found along the boundaries between Alaska and British Columbia, in the country of the Chilkats, the Takus, the upper Copper river, upper Yukon, Tanana and Kuskoquim rivers. In the last named regions, skins maj^ be bought from ten to fifteen dollars each, but in Southeast Alaska, where com- petition is strong, forty and fifty dollars each is frequently paid for them. Black foxes, of an inferior qualit}^ are found on the 70 ALASKA. sea coast, on the shores of Norton sound, in the interior of Kotzebue sound, along the Yukon, and on the Colville river. The}^ are quite plentiful on Kadiak island and most of the Aleu- tian islands ; but the)^ have been transported bj" man's agency to mau}^ of these points. Along the southwestern coast there are many islands, removed from the shore a few miles, uninhabited and never visited by natives. In a number of instances white men have gathered a few pairs of l^lue, black and silver foxes, when young, from the natives, and taken them to these islands and turned them adrift. They arrange with the natives to carry food to them at stated periods, and the}' become, in a measure, tame. The}- increase ver}' rapidl}', and in three or four years become a source of profit- able industry for the projectors of the enterprise. On the seal islands the propagation of the blue fox has been carried on for some 3-ears, only a certain number being killed each j^ear. The blue fox was first discovered on the Aleutian islands in 1741. It has been protected against intermixture with other and inferior foxes, and the skins are of the finest quality and command a high price in the market. The cross fox partakes of the distinguishing qualities of both the red and black, and is evidently the result of unrestricted intermixture, the connecting link between the plebian and the patrician. The skin of the cross fox is valued but little more than the red, from two to three dollars being paid for the best. Almost the only high-priced fur found in the Yukon basin is the silver fox, and it forms a most important element in the trade of that region. The wdiite fox is found along the continental coast of Alaska, from the mouth of the Kuskoquim river northward to Point Bar- row. Its fur is snowy white, soft and long, but is not durable ; hence it does not command a high price in the market. The white fox is fearless, and will enter villages and dwellings in search of food, or out of mere curiosity. It will eat anything to satisfy hunger, and in the depth of winter the natives find it un- safe to leave any article of clothing, dog harness or boat material where these thieving little animals can find them. Mink are plentiful on the coast, but not on the islands, except- ing those of Prince William .sound. They are also abundant on the Yukon and many other rivers. The spell of fa.shion has LAND AND vSEA ANIMALS. 71 made this skin of but little value. But within the past two years it has become more popular, and iu a few 3'ears it may be as fashionable as when, a score or more years ago, it was the pride of ever)^ woman to possess a cape made from the fur of these pretty animals. The polar bear is found only on the Arctic coast where there are large bodies of ice. With the moving ice fields, he enters, and leaves the waters of Bering sea. From fifty to one hundred of these animals are killed yearh^ principally by the natives. It sometimes happens, when a whale that has been struck by a har- poon and not killed, in time dies and is washed ashore, the polar bears will come from all directions, drawn by the scent of the carcass^ and feed on the blubber. Natives then come upon them wdth their crude weapons and slay them in large numbers. The lynx is found in the wooded mountains, and wolves, both gre}^ and white, are plentiful, but rarely killed. Muskrats abound all over Alaska, and rabbits and marmots are killed for their flesh ; the natives use the skins of the former for clothing. Especially is this true in the Arctic region, as the reindeer, the animal that formerly supplied them with skins for clothing, are fast disappearing. Wolverines are plentiful on the upper Yukon and the lake sections. The skins are rarely exported, as a ready market is found among the inhabitants of the coast region of the Yukon and Kuskoquim, who prefer this shaggy, piebald fur to any other trimming for their wearing apparel. This skin is very highlj^ prized among the Eskimo, as it serves as an excellent protection for their faces against the severe blasts, when sewed around their hoods. Deer are very abundant, especially in Southeast Alaska, where, in winter, they are recklessly slaughtered for their hides, when driven to the coast by long continued snow. So reckless has this slaughter become that there is great danger of their being exterminated, unless Congress passes a law prohibiting the exportation of deer hides from the territory for a number of years. Deer form a large supply of food for the natives of Southeast Alaska; and the wanton manner in which the}?- are killed bids fair to eliminate a food product of vast importance. They are hunted, in the rutting season, by a call made from a blade of grass placed between two strips of wood, which produces a very 72 ALASKA. clever imitation of the cr)' of the deer. This call leads them to the ambushed hunter; and so deceptive is it that it is not unusual to get a second shot should the first fail. The wolves play great havoc with the deer; and it is remarkable that they exist in such numbers among so many ruthless enemies. Moose, cariboo and deer are found in the upper Yukon coun- try, and especially on the White river moose are reported by the natives to be plentiful, and of large size. The deer of the Arctic and sub- Arctic regions have been con- founded with the reindeer of other localities. While they cer- tainl}' belong to the same family they are what is called the barren ground cariboo, which differs from the upland cariboo and domesticated reindeer in being smaller in body and horns. The mountain sheep and goat are found along the highest mountains of the coast and in the interior, in droves of twenty or more. The}' seem to prefer the highest altitudes and most precipitous steeps. Their wool is long and fine, and when nicely cleansed and tanned makes beautiful rugs. The horns of the sheep are made into bowls and ladles b}' the natives; and many rare and beautiful pieces worked up in this way find readj^ pur- chasers in tourists. Bald and gray eagles are numerous throughout Southeast Alaska, and are also found, to some extent, in the interior wher- ever there is large timber. The natives kill them in large num- bers and pluck the feathers, leaving nothing but the down. When cleansed the skins are sewn together, about thirty of them being required to make a robe, which is, at once, rich and beau- tiful. Humming birds, in large numbers, having the delicate plum- age of those found in warmer climates, flit from bush to bush in Southeast Alaska. Native boys tie small pieces of red flannel on a limb, and cover them thinklj'^ with pitch. The bright color attracts the tiny birds, who alight on the flannel. Their little feet adhere so tenaciously to the pitch that they cannot extricate themselves, so they become an easj^ prey to the j^oungsters who trap them, only to worrj' them to death with savage cruelty. In all the waters of Alaska, whether in the southeastern coun- try, the interior, or Arctic regions, ducks and geese in every variety are found in vast numbers Alaska appears to be especi- ally adapted as a natural breeding ground. The smaller varieties LAND AND SEA ANIMALS. 73 of land and timber birds are as numerous as the water fowl, and the graceful swan are found in large numbers in manj' parts of the territory. In Arctic Alaska the disappearance of the snow and ice is immediately followed by the arrival of birds from the south in large numbers, and, in a few weeks, the Eskimo revel in the variety and number of eggs found among the grass and tundra. Besides the wholesale robbing of nests for eggs the young fledglings are eaten by the Eskimos with a keen relish. Their stay is brief, however, for none, save the most hardly of the Arctic birds, remain to pass the long months of winter in this region. It may be interesting, while noting some of the resources of Alaska, to mention some of its exports since the United States acquired possession ; to demonstrate the wisdom of the purchase and show that the vast and varied resources of our great north- ern possession are worthy of more than a passing word. In this connection, also, it may be interesting to refer to executive document number thirty- six, of the House of Repre- sentatives, second session. Forty-first Congress, 1869, which is based upon the report of a special agent of the Treasury Depart- ment, It says, that at six per cent, interest on the seven million two hundred thousand dollars paid for the territory, together with the expense of maintaining the government there, would amount in twenty-five years to the sum of forty-four million dollars. And that, with the most liberal estimate of income from the fur seal islands, and from customs duties, an amount not to exceed one hundred and ten thousand dollars per annum conld be real- ized. And from no other source but a most extraordinary con- dition of circumstances, such as the discovery of large deposits of mineral, could any material increase in revenue be looked for. The agent's estimate of the revenue was as erroneous in the matter of the fur seal islands as in other directions. For from this source alone there has been paid into the national treasury nearly nine million dollars. The following table, carefully compiled from official records, will show how far the " extraordinary circumstances " have con- spired to make the purchase of Alaska not only a shrewd piece 74 ALASKA. of diplomatic sagacity, but that Seward's " ice box " has proven a most profitable investment: Furs |53,ooo,ooo oo Canned salmon 10,000,000 00 Whalebone 10,000,000 00 Gold and silver 6,coo,ooo 00 Whale oil 3,000,000 00 Codfish 1,600,000 00 Salted salmon 800,000 00 Ivorv 160,000 00 Total 184,560,000 00 CHAPTER IX. THE TOURIST ROUTE. n^HE tourist route to Alaska extends from Seattle to Sitka, and lies over a course which, for nearly twelve hundred miles, is almost entirely through narrow channels bordered b}' high mountains that completely prevent the sea from becoming rough. If an occasional glimpse of the waters of the North Pacific ocean were not obtained, when passing from the shelter of one island behind the precipitous shores of another, one would never realize that he was enjoying all the pleasures of a sea voyage, with but few of the discomforts. The Pacific Coast Steamship Company of San Francisco, ex- tended its route northward to this country some ten years ago. And upwards of five thousand tourists, each j-ear since, have seen an endless panorama of scener}- unfolded to their view throughout the entire distance. The vessels are large, comfortable and convenient, and the appointments throughout, are especially adapted for the sort of trip made ; and every facility is afforded for complete enjoy- ment, and every opportunitj^ given to see and learn all there is to discover, on this greatest of tourists' routes A semi-monthl}' mail is carried by the Pacific Coast Steam- ship Company to the different points on this route, and besides the steamers thus emploj^ed, the palatial steamer "Queen," three thousand tons burden, having accommodations for two hundred and fifty first-class passengers, makes semi-monthly trips during June, Jul)' and August. There is no time in the year, however, when communication to all points on this route is not made regularly twice each month, but during December, January and February a single steamer only is necessary to take care of the trafiic. While the universal verdict of those who are so fortunate as to be able to take a trip to Alaska is that it is one round of charm- 76 ALASKA. ing surprises, and the scener}- superior to that found in any other part of the civilized world, the great secret of the popularity of the Alaskan trip is the courteous and attentive treatment received from the employes. The masters have all been on this route for many years, and they never forget, for an instant, to afford the passengers every opportunity to see and enjoy to the fullest extent all sights and pleasures possible. The most favorable time for making the trip is from the first of June until the last of August ; yet a month earlier or later presents many opportunities for enjoyment. The long periods of twilight which prevail in this latitude, in the spring and fall months, strikes one as strange, and a better view is often afforded in the subdued light of " early morn and dewy eve." The dry subject of enumeration of the articles needed on this trip ma}' be abbreviated by the simple suggestion that one should carry such articles as are usually needed on a journej^ of two or three weeks, being careful to have clothing that is warm and suitable for an unusually rainy country. Seattle, which bears the illustrious title of the Queen City of the Northwest, is situated upon an indentation of Puget sound, forming a perfect harbor, almost circular in shape, and named Elliott bay. It is a substantial, well-built city, having a population of more than sixt}^ thousand, and it presents in every wa}', the air and activity of a live, bustling and enterprising city. Although founded 'way back in the fifties, the real growth of Seattle dates from 1 889, when the entire business portion of the city was laid in ashes, and almost every vestige of the early uncouth, ill-built town was swept away. The wooden buildings and shacks that lined the business streets have been replaced by modern brick and stone blocks, elegant in construction and imposing in appearance. The city is modern in ever}' respect. It has a magnificent S3^stem of water works and sewers, is well lighted and has good streets, over which there is a complete network of street railways reaching to the different sul)urban towns, and to the many beautiful parks and lake.'^ide resorts, for which the city is justly noted and which are the admiration of the tourist. Lake Washington, the pride and delight of Seattleites, is a beautiful sheet of water, lying east of the city, about twenty-five miles long, and averaging three in width. Its shores are dotted THE TOURIST ROUTE. 77 with summer residences, and its bosom bears numberless pleas- ure craft of varied form and design, while many steamers pi}' the lake for commercial purposes. The lake is reached by four lines of street railways, two cable and two electric. Adjoining Lake Washington, and but a short distance north, is L,ake Union, a smaller but fine lake, surrounded bj' pleasant homes ; and still another beautiful sheet of water is Green lake, northeast of the city. All of these lakes contain abundance of trout and other fish. Sixty miles away, to the south, snow-covered Mt. Rainier raises its lofty head, standing hoary and magnificent. It over- looks the great inland sea called Puget Sound, and the man)' cities and villages that thrive upon its shores. Among the numerous parks within easy distance of Seattle are Ravenna, Woodland, Madrona, Leschi, Madison Street and Kinnear, beautiful natural parks to which art has leant com- pleting touches. The cit}' has excellent schools, and the differ- ent religious denominations are well represented, there being fifty-six places of worship in the city. There are also two opera houses; the Seattle Theatre is one of the finest on the Pacific coast. The city is undoubtedly the commercial metropolis of the northwest. It is the entrepot for an immense stretch of country rich in lumber, coal and other natural resources; the wonderful shipment of lumber being the most important industry, although the coal business is large and steadily growing. Its citizens are enterprising, and the unanimity with which all labor for the common advancement of the cit3''s interest has often been com- mented upon with praise. Tacoma, called by its citizens the "City of Destiny," is situ- ated on Commencement Bay thirty miles south of Seattle, and is a point often visited by tourists en route to Alaska. Tacoma is an enterprising city of some forty-five thousand people, and has had a phenomenal growth. It is the second city in size and importance in the State and is modern in all respects, having many business enterpises, manufactures, electric and cable rail- ways, schools, churches, etc. South of the city about thirty miles distant, rises Mt. Rainier, but in Tacoma the name "Rainier" is never heard, except from a stranger or perhaps a Seattle man. Here it is lovingly referred to as " Mt. Tacoma," and the mountain with the dual name has been for years the source of much good natured badinage between the two rival cities of Puget Sound, as well as a source of amusement and 78 ALASKA. sometimes of perplexity to those not acquainted with the con- tention over the name of the grand old sentinel which overlooks the great inland sea. A journey of fortj^ miles on the waters of Puget Sound brings the vessel to its first stop on the route — at Port Townsend — having a population of thirty-five hundred people. It is most picturesquely located, having a beautiful harbor with water of sufiicient width and depth to permit the largest ocean vessels to sail up to its wharves. The business portion of the town lies principally along the water front and the residences occupying a level plateau fifty feet or so above, affording a charming view of the Sound for many miles. On a commanding spot is a beautiful stone customs building just completed by the government at a cost of two hundred thousand dollars, and a half mile further to the west stands a strikingly handsome court house. This is the last port of entry in United States territory until Alaska is reached, and all vessels clear here before starting on their long voyage to the north. At present the only communication with the Puget Sound cities is by several lines of steamers each day, but there is good prospect of the railroad now running but a score or so miles to the south being extended so as to afford direct railroad communication with Olympia and the east. The Alaska boat usually takes on passengers in greater or less numbers at this port, discharging also freight and passen- gers for San Francisco, on its return voyage. A delightful ride of three hoiirs across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, where sometimes a little motion of the vessel is felt should wind blow from the ocean, seventy -five miles to the west, brings us to Victoria, where a wait of an hour or so affords opportunity for those who are desirous of doing so, to step on English soil and admire the handsome buildings, neat gardens and grass plats, and observe the manners of a community whose every appearance stamps them as wholly and essentially English. Just across the little strip of water, to the north, the staff bearing aloft the British flag can be seen, and under its shadow small squads of marines are distinguished going through a brief guard maneuvre, while an occasional blast from a bugle echoes a call across the water from the English naval station of the north Pacific at Esquimalt. When the steamer is again under way the journey to Alaska really begins, and the steady puffing of the engine and the vibra- THE TOURIST ROUTE. 79 tion of the ship are felt for three days, while the six hundred and twenty-five miles before reaching the first stopping place in Alaska, twent}^ miles across the boundarj^ are traveled. It is not unusual, however, for the steamer to put in at Nanaimo, a town about sixty-five miles north of Victoria, on the east side of Vancouver island, for coal. Extensive deposits of a superior quality of bituminous coal are here located, large quantities of which are shipped to San Francisco and Alaska. About two thousand men are employed in these mines, and the coal is sold at three dollars per ton. Three miles north of Nanaimo, Departure Bay is also frequently visited for coal by Alaskan steamers. Vancouver island is about three hundred miles long by about fifty wide, and is the largest of the many islands on the coast of the North Pacific. It is densely wooded throughout, and its sides in many places are high and precipi- tous. The dense growth of timber and underbrush is inter- spersed with many little streams of water which, flowing down- ward, together with the deep indentations extending inland, lend beauty and variety to the scene. One hundred miles through the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver and Valdez islands, the narrow pass — Seymour Nar- rows — is reached. It has a tremendous current, and at ebb and flood tide is a veritable maelstrom, with whose swift flowing waters the most powerful machinery is unable to cope. At low tide, a shattered series of rocky ledges are seen, with torrents of water rushing between and over them, and the whirling cauldron is enough to strike terror to the heart of the most daring navi- gator. The passage is always made when the tide is nearly full. The captain of an Alaskan steamer, on one occasion, lost con- trol of his vessel here. It reeled and staggered as the mad waters lashed against its sides, and sought to drag it into the boiling sea. It swept around in the torrent, but finally drifted into less turbulent waters and passed through without encoun- tering any damage. The United States steamer Saranac was wrecked here in 1875. She was caught in the rush of waters, but succeeded in reaching the shore of Vancouver island, although after her officers and crew had safely landed, she w^as drawn into the whirlpool and sank out of sight. The United States steamer Wachuset, seven years later, had an exciting experience in these waters, but fin- ally stemmed the current and passed out, after having a portion So ALASKA. of her keel swept off by the fierce current. Man}- smaller vessels were partially or wholly wrecked before the dangers of these narrows became known. Johnstone strait for fifty-five miles, and Broughton strait for fifteen miles —immediately to the north — both pass between land more or less abrupt, and the picturesque scenery encoun- tered before Seymour Narrows is reached, is again presented. Johnstone strait opens into Queen Charlotte Sound, which for fift)" miles presents an expanse of water fifteen miles or so across, until it in turn meets the waters of Hecate strait. The broad expanse of the ocean is seen only while the ship is speeding over the thirty-five miles intervening, before she enters the land- locked shores of Fitz-Hugh Sound. From here to the end of the inland channel at Sitka, with the exception of fifteen miles at Milbank Sound, where in a south wind, and again at Dixon En- trance, the water may become rough for an hour or so, to add, as it were, a little spice to the smooth sailing which might other- wise become monotonous. Beginning here, the route is one continuous chain of labyrin- thian passages, winding hither and thither through narrow de- files, with mountains rising many hundred feet on both sides, covered from base to peak with a dense coat of fir, whose outline is mirrored in the water below. " The Mystic Maze " would be an appropriate name to apply to this enchanted route. Oftimes the prow of the ship is headed for what appears to be a moun- tainous barricade, but a sudden turn reveals a continuation of the pathway, and an outlet to endless charming nooks and glassy waters. The first glimpse of Alaska after emerging from Grenville channel, into the waters of Chatham sound which separates British, from American territory, is Tongas island, the home of a tribe of natives scarcely numbering three score, the remnant of a once numerous tribe. They occupy the site of old Fort Ton- gas which, during the first eight years after the acquisition, was the headquarters of a company of United States troops. No opportunity is afforded to examine the country in this vicinity save from the deck of the vessel. Thirty -five miles farther on Mary Island is sighted. The steamer blows a shrill whistle, the speed of the engine is slackened, and immediately, the stars and stripes are hoisted upon the staff of the Custom House. As soon as ihc anchor is lowered, the cai>tain goes ashore to execute The Treadwell Ledge. THE TOURIST ROUTE. 8i such papers as are necessary to comply with the laws and enable the vessel to proceed northward. At this station a deputy col- lector is taken aboard, who makes the trip to Sitka and return, and whose business it is to see that no whisky or other contra- band goods are landed or taken on board the ship. An hour is spent here, when the machiner}- is set in motion and the vessel again swings on its course towards New Metlakahtla. This point is off the main route some fifteen miles, so it is only when there are goods to be discharged that the vessel pauses at one of the most interesting points on the whole journe^^ An approach to New Metlakahtla shows, quietly nestling on the side of a gentle slope of ground, stretching back from a long pebbly beach, two or three hundred houses, many of them neatly painted, with a church edifice, large school building, store, saw- mill and salmon canning establishment. There is nothing about the appearance of the place, until the faces of the residents are seen, to suggest that it is the home of the Chim-sy-an tribe of natives, whom Mr. Duncan brought from Old Metlakahtla a few 3'ears ago. Every branch of business pursued by whites, in towns of similar size, is here carried on, and the eight hundred and fifty or more people are thrifty and contented. In the chap- ter on the boundary dispute a more extended reference is made to Mr. Duncan and the people whom he has brought from the degradation of savagery to a high state of civilization. Retracing its course to Tongas Narrows, the steamer runs alongside of the wharf at Ketchikan. Six j^ears ago this was the site of a salmon cannery, which was destroyed by fire. It is now a trading post, and salmon are salted in large numbers. Should it be the season for the salmon to run, the little stream which flows down through the hills to the east of the village, will be literally filled with the humpback variety. Here the first postoffice in Alaska is found, and the first glimpse of the Alaskan Indian, in his native state, is also obtained here. A stop of an hour, and the steamer is ready to resume its course towards L,oring. The twenty-five mile distance is covered in about three hours, and the seat of what was, until the past three years, one of the most prolific red salmon streams in all Alaska, is found picturesquely located on the western slope of a high mountain. For a number of years from fifteen to twenty thousand cases of red salmon were packed each year by this establishment, but a system of trapping prevailed by which the 6 82 ALASKA. fish were prevented from ascending to the lake above, and this has very nearly exhausted the species. The pack is now mostly of the humpback variety. Just back of the cannery the spark- ling waters of Naha falls come thundering down fifty feet or more, and are considered the most beautiful of the many encoun- tered along the tourist route. At nine o'clock on the morning of the twenty-ninth day of August, 1889, the side-wheel steamer Ancon, which had for sev- eral years been engaged in carrying tourists to Alaska, in attempting to swing around, settled upon a reef within a few yards of the shore and, when the tide receded, broke in two and became a total wreck. The passengers were taken on their jour- ney a few days afterward by another steamer. The accident was the means of affording them several days of amusement, which the}' enjoyed to the fullest extent. From Loring to Fort Wrangel about ninety miles of charming scenery is passed, but no stop is made in that interval. Wrangel is the most picturesque as well as largest settlement yet visited. It has reached the phase in history when it lives only in the glory of ' ' by-gone days. ' ' For a number of years following the purchase of Alaska, it was the winter rendezvous of miners, who w-ere taking out thousands and hundreds of thousands of dollars in placer gold, at Cassiar and other British northwest territory mining camps, but these claims becoming exhausted, the life and activity of Wrangel also disappeared, until to-day a half hundred whites and two or three hundred natives occup}', with few excep- tions, the same log buildings that were erected during the days when gold was almost as plentiful as water. Considerable busi- ness, however, is done here to-day. There are several stores whose customers are principally natives, with whom goods are exchanged for furs; a large sawmill; a bonded warehouse, through which British goods must pass before being shipped into the territory, up the Stikine river, four miles to the north- east; a Presbyterian church, and the offices of the United States deputy collector and commissioner. Wrangel pursues the even tenor of its way, apparentl}^ satisfied with the present, and with recollections of its more varied past. This town was named for Baron Wrangel, who, in 1831, was the Russian governor. Here he constructed a fort, and his troops defeated a party in league with the Hudson's Bay Company, who had encroached upon his territorv to trafiic with the natives. Soon after our acquisition THE TOURIST ROUTE. 83 the tort was garrisoned by two companies of United States troops. The arrangement of the plat, with barracks and officers' quar- ters standing on either side of the square, gives evidence to-day of the time it was occupied by these representatives of the Amer- ican army. Troops were withdrawn in 1870, but the garrison was again occupied by soldiers from 1875 to 1877, when all the troops were permanently withdrawn from Alaska. It is usual for steamers going north to remain at Wrangel long enough to reach the entrance to Wrangel Narrows, twenty -five miles north at high tide. This is, indeed, one of the most inter- esting portions of the whole trip. The passage through the Narrows covers a distance of twenty-five miles. At half tide, a hundred ton vessel drawing six feet of water could not make the passage on account of ledges of rocks and boulders stretched across the whole passage. Hard-a-port! Starboard! Steadj^! are constantly heard from the captain as the ocean steamer is turned close around the buoys, that locate the shallow water and hidden reefs. While danger need not be apprehended in case of accident in this passage, for the waters do not surge through with the force that causes Seymour Narrows to be dreaded, yet the alertness of the officers, and the caution exercised in piloting the steamer, arrest the attention of the passengers, and give rise to expressions of admiration for the skill of the mariners, who have charge of the craft. Upon emerging from the Narrows a glimpse of the first glacier of any note is had. It bears the name of Patterson, and looms six thousand feet upward, while its ser- pentine form is seen winding over the mountain, and is finally eclipsed by the towering magnificence of the Devil's Thumb, pointing heavenward at an altitude of nine thousand feet. This, too, is lost to view, as the vessel bears westward to Cape Fanshaw, where the course is straight away for the metropolis of Alaska, seventy miles distant at the head of Gastineau channel. On the right, twelve miles before reaching Juneau, Taku inlet opens into the channel. It is one of the favorite points of inter- est for tourists, and the glaciers winding down through the mountains, are visible for a long distance and pour into the inlet with a front of a mile or more. The Taku river leading into the interior, is the stream Schwatka ascended on his last trip into Alaska, in the spring of 1S91, and it is from the head of canoe navigation on this river that a party of British surveyors made explorations during the past winter 84 ALASKA. for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of constructing a trail into the interior. There is a natural route from this river to the Yukon of but ninety miles to water communication on the inside, but about thirt}' miles of that distance lies through a low, swampy country, that before it could be used, as a route, would have to be cordu- royed. The town of Juneau is located at the base of a mountain that rises almost perpendicularly for nearly three thousand feet, form- ing a most picturesque background to this little city. Juneau is an ideal mining camp. Every building in the town, and every inhabitant, bears the aspect of activity and prosperit}' peculiar to live mining camps. It has but few streets, and they are crooked and narrow. With but few exceptions, the inhabitants have not found time to clear their lots of the stumps or gnarled roots that litter, as well as make a rustic ornament for every door j^ard. But there are a number of handsome residences and neat business houses; and a system of water works that draws its supply from the purest of mountain streams, and an electric light plant which for four months of the j^ear, gives waj- to the brilliant light of heaven's sun, taking its turn again for four months in the winter, except- ing only a few hours at mid-day. All roads lead to Rome, it is said, and all routes in Alaska lead to Juneau. The Yukon miner comes here to outfit for his long and hazardous trip into the interior; all travelers who come to Alaska, whether for business or pleasure, and even the United States Court, if in session at Sitka, the capital, comes here for nineteen-twentieths of its jurors, without whom it could not transact business. Juneau is rightly called the metropolis. Whether she will retain this prestige remains to be seen. If so, one of two things must occur. She must plane down the sides of her mountains or erect sk3'-scraping buildings with elevators to accommodate her populace, for nearly every foot of available ground is already occupied. The population of Juneau numbers about two thousand souls; and the enterprise of the people, and volume of business, are shown by the support given to the three newspapers here published. The Mining Record, the oldest paper published here, is devoted especially to the mining interests of the country. The Searchlight, a metropolitan-appearing journal, in general THE TOURIST ROUTE. 85 make-up and contents, is a credit to the city and its enterprising proprietor. The JVczcs, also an excellent publication, is more local in its character, and helps to make a trio of weekly papers which vie with each other in the publication of reliable informa- tion concerning this great territory. As the steamer turns in its course from the metropolis towards the capital, it retraces its way for twelve miles, and on the right, two miles from Juneau, passes the works which constitute the great Treadwell mine. Dense columns of smoke are seen issuing from the chlorination works which are here burning that part of the ore which the batteries have not been able to separate from the gold. Its poisonous vapors that the humid atmosphere has crowded down the mountain sides have bleached the timber grow- ing there almost as white as the ragged and jagged ledges laid bare by the incessant explosions of dynamite that occur in this mine day and night from one year's end to another. At the end of Douglas island the ship's prow is turned north- ward towards L,ynn canal; but which arm it a.scends, whether Chilkoot or Chilkat inlet, depends upon the nature of the busi- ness calling the vessel thither. If to Chilkoot, a view is afforded of the country through which the miner starts with his pack over the portage of twenty- eight miles to the headwaters of that great river, the Yukon, and also, upon the left-hand side, the neat and attractive buildings of the Presbyterian mission at Haines. If the steamer has taken the Chilkat inlet, at the head of navi- gation, to the right-hand is the town of Chilkat, whose location is marked by a cannery, store and a few other buildings. Fur- ther to the left is the route recently located by Mr. Jack Dalton, who has discovered a way into the interior of Alaska, whence the Yukon river may be reached over a country having a gradual ascent and descent, with no high mountains to interfere, thus, forming a natural route for the construction of a railroad into the great interior. Everybody but the projector and his native employes remains yet in blissful ignorance of the nature of the country passed over. But it is certain that a native in Dalton's employ traveled on foot all the way from the Yukon river to- Chilkat, last fall, in fourteen days. This spring Mr. Dalton established a pack train over this route, and upwards of twenty horses are now engaged in transporting supplies for^his trading posts in the interior. 86 ALASKA. As the ship turns about to resume its course, Davidson glacier appears on the right. This is the first good view of a glacier yet had, and it looks as if a might}^ river winding down from the mountain had suddenly congealed while pouring its torrent into the sea below. Davidson glacier has its head a few miles to the west, and is a spur of the series of glaciers that form the frigid bulwarks of ice in Glacier baj', whose fronts rise perpendicularly from the water. The Davidson glacier, however, slopes gradu- ally down leaving a moraine covered with low wnllow and alder trees. A distance of sixt}' miles to the south is made before the ship's course is changed into Icy strait, and is now among float- ing ice, which maj- be encountered in such quantities as to impede the progress of the ship through the entrance into the bay. The prows of all the vessels are protected with heavy tim- bers, and one experiences the shock caused by the crashing of the vessel into the bergs and floating ice as it pursues its course. "When within the baj- it is in a sea of floating ice, dodging its waj^ through the heavy "pack" past Willoughby island, until it comes to anchor wathin two miles of the front of the celebrated Muir glacier. The island just referred to is named after Professor Willoughb)', one of the early pioneers of California. As a boj- he was in the vangi;ard of the "forty-niners;" picked up nug- gets as large as walnuts at Suter's mill with Marshall; moved along into Fraser river, Cariboo and Cassiar mining camps; and was among the early placer miners in the camps of Southeast Alaska. He piloted the first vessel into Glacier bay, and was there when Professor Muir made his first investigation of the wonderful river of ice that bears his name. Professor Willoughbj' is a typical frontiersman. He is said to have made more extensive explorations in Southeast Alaska than any other man, and to have found more good mineral deposits than he knows what to do with. His claims on Admir- alty island are among the most promising quartz locations in the territory, and the sale of this property will probably bring him more monej^ than he will be able to spend. My first visit to Alaska, in the spring of 18S9, was in the interest of newspapers. I was looking for just such a person as Professor Willoughby to furnish me information about the coun- try. His acquaintance supplied me with means for building up a series of letters upon a sul)ject that made them the most profit- Crevasse on Top of Muir Glacier. LaRoche, Photo, Seattle, Wash, THE TOURLST ROUTE. 87 alile newspaper articles I ever wrote, and w^hich appeared in nian)^ of the leading papers of the country, The "Silent City " of Glacier bay helped also to make it more noted, brought thou- sands of dollars to the person who claimed to have photographed a "mirage of an unknown city," in this bay, from the sale of photographs of the same, and caused a vast amount of discussion on the subject of mirages. Many persons pronounced it a "fake," others a good joke, while some looked upon it in the light of a phenomenon that it was reasonable should occur, on account of the peculiar condition of the atmosphere that prevails in this locality'. If I thought the story a monstrous and ridiculous fake, grati- tude to the man who furnished me with the sinews from which to weave the interesting tale, would prevent my denouncing it as such; and, if I knew it to be a joke, I would consider it the most interesting, as well as the least harmless, that has ever come under my observation. Two years previous to my arrival at Juneau, Professor Wil- loughby had been exhibiting a negative of a picture which he said he had succeeded in taking of a cit}' which appeared above the face of the glacier in the longest da5^s of each year, and which was brought to his attention by the natives, who called it the silent city. He procured a camera, and in three successive years made the journe}- in a canoe with natives, and each time was able to make an exposure, but the plate that had been exposed the third 3^ear proved upon development to be the onh' one that contained a picture of the city. It was a weird-looking negative and, con- templating it while the professor told the storj' with the utmost earnestness and sincerit}-, one could not but be interested and inclined to believe it to be true. He said that the city always appeared as if suspended in the air, just in front of the Fair- weather range of mountains. The atmosphere was so clear that the peaks many miles to the north were distinctly seen, and ever)^ ridge and wallow and curve of the icy crust that envel- oped them could not have been more clearly defined had they been but a stone's throw away. That while asleep in his tent one morning, a native called to him excitedly " to get up;" and upon looking to the north he saw a strange looking object hang- ing over the sides of the mountain, and following the direction of a stream or glow of light which seemed to radiate from the range squarely down upon the glaciers at the head of the bay. 88 ALASKA. Gradually it became more distinct, and soon assumed the appear- ance of a city of immense proportions, stretching out into the distance until its furthermost limits were lost to view. The style of architecture was new to him. Buildings of massive dimensions extended in solid and unbroken blocks as far as the eye could reach. The solemn walls of cathedrals arose almost to the skies, and his imagination reveled in silvery music, chanted to a chorus of tinkling bells, that was wafted out from the frescoed aisles through the openings of gorgeously painted windows. The entire limits of the city were confined within a halo of light, dense, yet transparent, pouring its soft glow upon roof and wall and window in glorious transformation. To the right and left a range of mountains, covered with the garb of winter, formed the background. The tops of buildings, and the spires of churches, appeared to pierce its ghostl}^ robes, yet not one breath of their chilled presence extended within the portals of the city. Again, he seemed to hear the bells from the steeples of a hundred churches mingling sweet and happy melody; 3'et, within the whole length and breadth of this boundless city, not one soul could be seen. Not even a shadow darkened the light for an instant. All was silent as the grave, when suddenly the vision began to move away. Its glories and grandeur lured him with a fascination which he could not resist. But, as he walked forward, it seemed to recede with even pace. Gradually, though he quickened his steps to get within the silent portals before it was too late, it was wafted into space and finally lost to view. In the summer of 1S89 I accompanied Professor Willoughby to Glacier bay, and spent six weeks in exploring the glaciers and surrounding country. Anxious to see the spot where he claimed to have witnessed this wonderful sight, although, I feel free to say, I did not live in very high expectations of gazing upon the silent city. One day we ascended the side of a mountain to a level space affording a glorious view of the whole bay. He took me to a pile of rocks, laid carefully one upon another, to a height of perhaps five feet. Slowly he commenced to throw off rock after rock until an opening was made in the center, and, insert- ing his arm, he drew out what appeared to be a scroll or book made from several leaves of birch bark. It was badly mildewed, and upon unrolling it a pencil fell to the ground. The half-dozen pages looked bright, however, and contained a record stating »* THE TOURIST ROUTE. 89 that the object of three trips made to this locality, in as many different years, was to secure a photograph of the city. During the six weeks I spent with Professor Willoughby, the relations between us, in camp and in our travels, were such as to encourage an exchange of confidences on many subjects, and although the subject of the silent cit3=^ and mirages was often referred to, he never bj' word or implication gave me any reason to think that his story was other than a true one. The cit3^ after the lapse of some time, was finally identified as Bristol, England. In order for it to have appeared in the manner claimed, it must have been reflected a distance of several thousand miles. Words can scarceh^ describe the awful grandeur of Muir glacier, whether viewed from the deck of a ship standing close to the front, which extends for two miles across and towers in scalloped and jagged surface tw^o hundred and fifty feet high, or while walking on its top among thousands of seams and cre- vasses, which descend in yawning chasms to interminable depths. Is it any wonder that, when gazing at this spectacle, one is lost in awe as he sees a solid body of ice winding for many miles through mountain gorges, breaking off" in irregular blocks, many of them a hundred feet square, and tumbling into the water below ? Is it any wonder that the crash and thundering echo can be heard for miles ? Is it any wonder that the bottom of this grand inland sea is a hundred fathoms or more deep, when such huge sections of ice, falling from dizzy heights, send the spray nearly to the top of the glacier as they go plowing onward towards the sea ? I have seen a single block of ice measuring at least four hun- dred feet square, with forty feet extending above the water, silently moving down the bay. Fresh water ice is said to float with seven-eighths below the surface, so in this instance the berg must have been three hundred and twenty feet thick. Among glaciers, nature is seen in its grandest, most awful and sullen mood. The continual caving leaves the glaciers with lacerated fronts that assume the shape of obelisks, pinnacles and turreted roofs of castles, set with a background of blue which, when touched with the rays of the sun, send back the hues of the topaz, diamond and sapphire in sparkling scintillations. How mau}^ years shall elapse before the last of the glaciers disappears from the bay can hardly be calculated, but they are 90 ALASKA. slowly receding and will, before manj' j-ears, become a wonder of the past. There are ten other living glaciers as large as the Muir, besides a number of smaller ones in the bay, and at the extreme northern end is one nearly as large again as the Muir. On the coast two hundred and fifty miles west from Sitka, the great Malispina glacier presents a front of over twenty-five miles to the sea. A few miles further west they almost entireh* disap- pear, and are only found in a few localities just back from the coast in the interior. About three o'clock on the morning of May 14th, i88g, as we were approaching Glacier bay, Captain William George, pilot of the steamer " George W. Elder," roused me from a sound slum- ber, to come out and see a most startling sight. I dressed hurriedl3% and in a few moments was standing on the upper deck; looking straight ahead, I could see snow-clad peaks tower- ing to the skies, seemingly rising from the water's edge. The sound of six bells had just died away when the sun rose above the eastern horizon, sending a shower of ra3^s across the water and up against the sides of the Fairweather range, sixty miles away; the highest of which were Crillon 16,000 feet, Fairweather 15,000 feet, lyituya 11,000 feet, and Perouse 15,000 feet. A faint line was visible extending along the base of the mountains, and as our ship was sailing at the rate of eight knots per hour, the captain told me to make the best of my opportunit}^ for the awe- inspiring monarchs would soon disappear from view behind the mountains at their feet. Soon I began to realize that they were fast giving way to the dark line ahead which rose higher and higher until we were confronted by a range of mountains three thousand feet or more high, standing directly across our path, and nothing was left of the imposing spectacle which, but a short time before, greeted my eyes. The following lines were written at the time and dedicated to Captain George, for his kindness in affording me an opportunity to witness the grandest sight I ever beheld: High up from out the waters. Far-reaching to the sky. Grandly from the mainland, Right glorious greet the eye. Four sharp-peaked snowy monarchs. Clothed full in white array, Fairweather's three companions stand, To hail the dawn of dav. THE TOURIST ROUTE. 91 From out the sullen stillness. Of night's bleak, wizen pall, These monarchs stand in glory, Right regal monarchs all. Their hoary heads uplifted. Majestic to the sk}-. And at their feet green mountains stand, Like pigmies wondering nigh. Three thousand feet towards the sky, They seek to look above. And clothed in furr}- coats of green. Are bathed in tears of love. From out P'air weather's frigid eyes. Kissed by the sun's soft rays. Love's pearly drops increasing fall. Through da3's and years, alwa3-s. And high above, as they look down. These regal forms appear To warn and say " no farther come, Your pathway leads not here. To waters deep, 3-our sail turn back. Else in our shrouds of snow, Vestments made ready for the skies. We'll mourn in clouds of woe." On through the smooth and mirrored brine. Our ship sails swift and far. But full as swift, aye, swifter yet, Fairweather sinks his star. Behind the green hills near and wild. These spectres disappear, Nor wait to heed a message sent. Though words of joy and cheer. Come back, old hoarj- headed kings! From out the heavens on high ; Come back, and show your snow-gemmed crowns, To our enchanted eye! Why seek ye rest beyond the clouds ? Why must ye hasten on ? What, gone so soon ? then fare 3-e well, Lituya! Perouse! Crillon! ! The day spent in Glacier bay ends only too quickly, but the ship must travel one hundred and fifty miles further before reaching the terminus of the route, at Sitka, Nearly one hun- dred miles of this course is due south, then the ship turns to feel its way for thirty miles in Peril strait. This stretch of water is, 92 ALASKA. as the name implies, a difficult and dangerous passage, and is attempted only in pleasant weather. The water surges and rushes at the rate of six or eight knots an hour, and like Seymour Narrows, is run only at high slack, or between that and high water. Its path is strewn with rocks and reefs, and its swiftest water points are designated as Upper and Lower rapids. At least two officers of the ship are always on the bridge, for here, as ever)' where throughout the long journe}- through the inland waters, their keen vigilance is never for a moment relaxed. Twent}' miles more and the booming of the cannon from the deck of the steamer warns the passengers that another port is reached. Its sullen roar echoes among the hills and announces to the inhabitants that another ' ' steamer day " is at hand. Another messenger from civilization has knocked at their doors, bringing anxiously looked-for tidings from home and friends to those who, from choice or circumstance, have found an abiding place vipon our most remote frontier. Sitka became the capital of Russian- America under the admin- istration of Alexander Baranoff, who served as governor of the Russian colonies from July 27th, 1791, until January nth, 1818, his predecessor, the first governor, having served from August 3rd, 1784, until July the 27th, 1791. The seat of government at that time was at Kadiak, Kadiak island, five hundred miles west of Sitka. The especial point upon which the interest of the tourist cen- tered, in Sitka, was Baranoff castle, built by the governor in 1 813. It was situated on the top of a hill and commanded a view of the broad expanse of the ocean and of the beautiful harbor, which was studded with many small islands covered with the freshest of evergreen trees and a profusion of the loveliest and brightest verdure. The channels between these islands admit of the passage of the largest ocean steamers, and on a sunshiny da}^ the view is most charming. The castle, an imposing structure, built of logs of huge dimen- sions, was divided into capacious rooms. On one side was a banquet hall running the whole length of the building, and here, during the occupancy of the Russians, many wild scenes of revelry were enacted. In order to preserve this structure from decay, our government expended $11,000 three years ago, but just after the work was completed it took fire through some mys- terious cause and was burned to the ground. THE TOURIST ROUTE. 93 Many stories are told, some of them replete with wild romance and crime of early days when Russian barons and beautiful prin- cesses passed days and nights within the castle in joyous living. It is said that Olga Arbuzoff, a niece of Governor Mooraveff, committed suicide by thrusting a dagger into her heart on the fifth day of March, 1826, the very day of her marriage to Count Nicholas Vassileff. The count was old, ugly and of coarse morals, and the lovely princess very naturall}^ hated him. Her uncle, however, compelled her to marry him, though she in- sisted that she would take her life if he persisted in his demands. The princess was very much in love with a young midshipman named Demetrius Davidoff, who was j-oung, handsome and an accomplished gentleman, and whom the governor, when he found thev were in love with each other, sent away on a six months' BARANOFF CASTLE. cruise. In the meantime the nuptials between the princess and the count were hurried to a consummation. The very night of the wedding the young lover returned and went immediately to the castle. As soon as the princess saw him she uttered a cry, and rushing into his arms, snatched his dagger from its sheath and plunging it into her breast, fell to the floor dead. The horror-stricken j^outh immediately drove it into his own heart and fell dead by the side of his sweetheart. The following day they were both buried in the same grave. From one of the win- dows in the banquet hall their last resting place was pointed out. 94 ALASKA. marked by a simple Greek cross standing at the head of the mound. The white population of Sitka does not exceed five hundred, including the actual residents, territorial officials, and members of the naval force here stationed. The natives number about nine hundred and occupy a portion of the town known as the "ranche." The Greek church with its dome painted blue and chime of bells stands at the head of the street. It is a striking, and rather imposing structure, but its most interesting feature is found inside. The altar decorations and the doors separating the inner sanctuary from the body of the church are trulj' gorgeous. The painting of the Madonna and other biblical figures are superbly set in silver and gold. Many of the natives are members of this church, and the ceremonies are of an inter- esting and unusual character, the congregation standing and kneeling, alternately, during the service. About a half mile south the Sitka industrial school is located. It is an institution where native children are taken in j-outh and taught various trades. It is supported by the Presbyterian Missionary Society, the general government assisting in the expense of maintaining it. One of the most interesting places to the tourist at the Alaskan capital is the Jackson Museum, near the industrial school, con- taining one of the largest collections of Alaska curios in the United States. -Many of the articles here deposited, were col- lected by Dr. Sheldon Jackson in his travels throughout the territory. "77/^ Alaskan " is the oldest paper in the territory, and being published at the capital is much sought after Ijy people abroad, who wish to keep informed in regard to the progress of the territory. Looking across the bay ta the north, Mt. Edgecombe, an extinct volcano, is plainly seen with the mouth of the crater clearly defined at the summit. An excursion to the mountain and into the crater, five hundred feet deep, forms a very inter- esting trip, but can hardly be made during the one day's wait of the steamer. The ascent of Mt. Ver.stovoi, which form a beau- tiful background to this picturesque town, can be accomplished in two or three hours, and the view obtained from the summit well repays one for the effort. THE TOURIST ROUTE. 95 From the top of Mt. Verstovoi may be seen the great unknown country stretching on and on to the westward. The tourist never visits it, but as the steamer floats out from the peaceful Sitka harbor "'homeward bound/' the "far ofif unknown" is seen to fade away in solemn beauty. By and by this region will be opened up to the pleasure seeker, when it will afford a fitting climax to a tour of the grandest scenic route in the world, that which threads the mystic mazes between Puget sound and Sitka. In closing this chapter on the tourist route, there seems to be need of a passing reference to the great scenic route of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which, taken before proceeding to Alaska, or after the pleasures of that journey have been experi- enced, makes the round complete, and one feels that he has seen all there is of the grand, the sublime, and the beautiful in nature, in all its moods. To our mind, Yellowstone park presents the only wonders on this continent that can appropriately be coupled with those of Alaska, and the Grand canyon, the geysers and hot springs of this great government reservation, offer food for thought and enchantment for the eye that language cannot faithfully portray. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company has just issued a complete and artistic publication entitled, " Sketches of Wonderland." It is beautifully and elaborately illustrated, and replete with infor- mation concerning the scenic points of the northwest, charmiagly and graphicall}^ described. This company have, with their excellent regular service, a tourists' schedule which affords an opportunity of visiting the Minnesota summer resorts, Yellowstone park and the main and branch lines of its road threading through Montana and Wash- ington, thence south through Oregon and California from Seattle, via steamer or rail. Excursion tickets from Chicago and St. Paul to Taconia and Seattle, and return, are on sale in all railroad offices; present rates for round trip tickets, good for stop-overs at all points in either direction and limited to nine months are |i 10 and $90 respectively. These tickets if desired will be made good to return via any other direct line. Alaska steamer excursion tickets are sold from Tacoma or Seattle to Sitka and return, at reduced rates, including meals and berth on the steamer. State-rooms can be secured in ad- vance by application to any railroad or steamship office. CHAPTER X. ALASKA INDIANS. '^r" Y;^ HENCE came the Alaska native ? Is a question that will probably never be sat- isfactorily determined, as no record or written history furnishes a clew, but the consensus of opinion seems to point to an Asiatic origin. Professor Dall in his re- port on the distribution, origin, etc., of the native races of the northwestern territory, believes the na- tives of Alaska were once inhabitants of the interior of America, and that they were forced to the west and north, by tribes of In- dians from the south. He can, in no way, connect them with the Japanese or the Chinese, either by dress, manner, or language. Mr. L. M. Turner, who spent a number of years among the Aleutian islands and on the east Bering coast as far north as Norton sound, reports to the Smithsonian Institute, that the Innuits or Eskimo, without doubt, populated this country from the coast of Greenland, and that he found no trouble in tracing a relationship, and proof that the migration was from the east to the west. Professor Otis T. Mason, of the same institution, takes the posi- tion that the emigration came from Asia to this continent, and that the Alaska Innuits are, undoubtedly, of Mongolian origin. We also are constrained to take the latter view, and believe they once came across Bering strait. It is an easy matter for the most casual observer, to note the marked points of resemblance between the Japanese, and the Innuit and Indian of Alaska. The same straight, black hair, olive complexion, small stature, almond ALASKA INDIANS. 97 shaped eye and unusually small hands and feet, are, to our mind, unmistakable evidences of kinship. They are not an inventive people, but are decidedly and emphatically imitative, a trait in the Japanese character always so conspicuous, and their genius seems best illustrated in the nicety of their carving, and their skill in weaving the most deli- cate fabrics. The aborigines of any country are quick to adopt the vices of the white man, but much slower in assuming his virtues. This is not to be wondered at, as usually the whites with whom they first come in contact are not of a class whose virtues are conspicu- ous, and the unsuspecting native has the smooth paths of vice pointed out more often than the steep and rugged road of virtue. The aborigines' love of intoxicants is great, and he will do almost anything to procure them. • When the Russians first occupied the country, they taught the native to make quass, a cooling and comparatively harmless drink, concocted of rye meal mixed with water which they placed in a cask until fermented. Latterly the native learned to add sugar, flour, dried apples and a few hops, putting the whole into a cask until cleared by fermentation. A strong intoxicant is the result. Another home brewed intoxicant, called hoochinoo, is made of fermented molasses and flour, and is a vile kind of liquor. When imbibed, it fairly crazes the natives, fitting them for any deeds of violence or viciousness. They are fond of Jamaica ginger, lemon extract, Florida water, cologne, or in fact, anything having fragrance or a "tang." Totem poles are found in every village along the southeastern coast. There is some difference of opinion as to their real signifi- cance. They are intended, in part, to commemorate deeds of bravery, or some virtue, in the lives of the departed, near whose graves they are reared ; also to indicate the family arms of the persons for whom they are erected, and whose habitations they adorn. Some tribes are represented by the crow or the hawk ; others have the bear, the whale, or the beaver, as '.their distinctive tribal emblem. These poles are elaborately carved from top to bottom, some reaching the height of fifty feet, and being three or four feet in diameter. The height signifies the importance of the individual. These people have an oral mythology of the most fabulous character, handed down from father to son. Many 7 98 ALASKA. of the curious carvings on the totem poles are designed to tell, in story, some event in the history or tribe of the individual. Despite the efforts of missionaries and teachers, and the influ- ence of civilization, witchcraft is still believed in to a greater or less extent. Evil spirits still take possession of the old, the decrepid, and the deformed, sometimes of the young, and these must be exorcised ; it being considered a matter of duty to dis- possess the unfortunate of his tormentors. Death sometimes results from the tortures undergone by those "bewitched." Cremation was formerly practiced throughout the whole coast country of Alaska, but it is fast disappearing now, except where it is followed by tribes removed from missionary influences. It may be here suggested, however, that the energies expended by missionaries and teachers in eradicating this custom, time hon- ored in its antiquity, might have borne better fruits if spent in other directions. The dead are usually placed in boxes, not long enough to permit the whole body to recline at full length, so it is disjointed and placed in a sitting posture, and the box kept above ground. Sometimes the location of a grave is on a high point, where the departed spirit can look out upon his former haunts. Some of the personal effects of the deceased are often placed beside him . The shamans, or doctors are never cremated, but lie in state four daj's — one day in each corner of the dwelling — then the corpse is conveyed to the dead house, where it is seated in an upright position, with blankets and paraphernalia to add to its comfort in the spirit land. Among the Thlinkits, the name by which most of the natives in Southeast Alaska are known, cremation was formerly the favorite method of disposing of the dead. The bodies of "witches" and slaves were disposed of with great secrecy, but those of chiefs lay in state. The people observed certain rites, then the body was cremated, the totem pole erected to his memory, and his ashes were incased in the base. There is positive evidence that cannibalism was practiced among the.se people upon the death of chiefs ; the sacrifice of slaves was common, that their spirits might accompany them into the spirit land. It is highly probable that the bodies of these slaves were cooked and eaten. Medicine men have some- times been known to devour portions of corpses, believing that they would accjuire control of the spirit and gain influence over ALASKA INDIANS. 99 demon spirits. As the giant tree yields to the axe of the wood- man, so are most of these practices and customs giving way be- fore the advance of civilization. ■ INDIAN DOCTOR. The Alaska Indians are inveterate gamblers. The favorite game is played with a handful of small sticks of different colors, called bj^ various names, such as crab, whale, duck, otter, etc. The player shuffles all the sticks together, then places them under bunches of moss. The object is to guess under which pile is the whale or the duck, etc. Simple as it looks, the natives often lose all their po.ssessions at the game. This kind of gamb- ling is much the same as that called "sing-gamble" among lOo ALASKA. Puget Sound Indians, the latter of whom accompan}- the shuffling and hiding of sticks with a weird chant. They are remarkably expert in carvang and engraving, as the numerous totem poles, arrowheads, spearheads, and silver and copper ornaments prove. Bullets, spearheads and arrowheads, as well as ornaments of various kinds, are made by the natives of copper, found on White river in the interior country and not on Copper river, as is generally' supposed. Baskets of ingenious design and coloring are made from grasses and roots: and the celebrated Chilkat blanket is made from the wool of the moun- tain sheep. Some of these blankets are realh* beautiful in design and workmanship, many of them being sold for one hundred dollars. The}^ are woven on rude hand looms, and it usual!}'- takes a native woman six months to complete one. The real article is, however, becoming scarce, as most of those now seen contain an admixture of the coarse yarn of commerce. Before the strong arm of the law stepped in, an injury of one native by another could be satisfied by the payment of some article of value, usually a blanket. Even murder could be atoned for and forgiven, if a sufficient number of blankets were handed over to the murdered man's relatives. The law of "An eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth," was modified b}- these people.' An innocent person might be sacrificed, and this was considered an equivalent and taken as full satisfaction and the murderer was allowed to go free. The canoe of the native is to him a necessity. It is made of wood in Southeast Alaska; in the far north of skins. In the southern portions the wood selected is usually the red and yellow cedar. Manj^ of these canoes have graceful lines, elaborately carved prows and sterns, and are frequentl)' large enough to carry forty or fifty men. They are cut out of the whole tree, the magnificent yellow cedar, which frequently grows to a great height, and is from seven to ten feet in diameter, furnishing the best. The sides are carefully modeled, worked and bent, so as to have the required graceful curve, by using hot water, and the canoe, when finished and dried, always retains the shape given to it by the builder. The Chinook jargon, a coml)ination of French and English, invented and used by the Hudson's Bay Company for use in trading with the natives of Oregon, Washington, and the British American possessions, still prevails among the whites and ALASKA INDIANS. loi natives in the coast country, and to a limited extent in the in- terior, but it almost entirely disappears after leaving Sitka going west, where the Russian language is spoken mainly among the Aleutian islands. The paint used by the natives to decorate their canoes, totems, and faces, is of two colors only, red and black. It is made of a kind of rock found in the country, which is rubbed over the surface of a coarse stone, and as it is ground off, water or oil is mixed with it, and it makes a very excellent substitute for paint. Brushes are made of feathers, or the sinews of animals. The Eskimo of the Arctic find the same kind of stone in that region, and use it for painting or decorating their sleds. The Aleuts, especially west of Unalaska, are artistic in their work with grasses and roots, and the delicacy with which the}'- weave and braid them evinces wonderful skill. It is the practice of the natives of Southeast Alaska to blacken their faces in summer, by rubbing in soot mixed with seal oil. This is done to prevent the sun blistering them when traveling on the water. It also acts as a shade to their eyes, which would otherwise suffer from the glaring reflection of the sun's rays. The houses of natives in Southeast Alaska are constructed of hewn boards or planks, and in some of the larger villages they are built of massive logs, very similar to the log houses built by whites in heavily timbered countries. In the center there is a square opening, eight or ten feet across, which is neatly filled with gravel upon which the fire is built. The smoke ascends to the roof through an opening made lengthwise, with the comb several feet long, of boards or thin slabs, that can be raised on either side so as to make a perfect draft, according to the direc- tion the wind is blowing. Around the fireplace, the floor is built a few inches high, and bunks are placed against the sides of the house in such number as the occupants require. There is rarely more than one room in the house. The house of the Aleut or natives of the Aleutian archipel- ago is called a barabara, and is a sort of a sod house and dug- out combined. The entrance is usually by a dark and narrow opening, through which the natives crawl, and which leads into the main room. ALASKA. IIOX. WAKRKX TKriTT. Hon. Warren Truitt, Judge of the United States District Court for Alaska* whose term of office has nearly expired, will probably enjoy the distinction of being the only Judge who held his position during the full four years for which he was appointed, his predecessors either resigning or were removed before the expiration of their term. He was appointed bj' President Harri- son, and is the only Republican officeholder in the territory. As a jurist and a citizen, Judge Truitt commands the respect of the whole people, and his careful watchfulness over the rights of the natives, meting out to them just deserts when offenders, and standing as their protector when improperly treated, has made them his warmest friends. By his strict integ- rity, his fairmindedness and the impartial administration of the duties of his office, he has won for himself an enviable reputation as a man of broad mind, fine judicial ability and an honorable and upright judge He enjoys the honor of presiding over the largest district, from a geographical stand- point in the world. CHAPTER XI. ESKIMO HABITvS AND CUSTOMS. n^HE Eskimo, or Innuit, as they call themselves, of Arctic Alaska, do not live, as many sup- pose, in snow houses. They live in huts built underground. Usually more than one familj^ occupy a sin- gle hut, and often ten or fifteen per- sons live for eight months in the 3'ear in a single apartment that is barely large enough for two per- sons. Their huts are built by digging a hole in the ground about six feet deep, and logs are stood up side by side all around the hole. On the tops of these are laid logs that rest even with the top of the ground. Stringers are then laid across them and other logs are laid on these, when moss and dirt is covered over, leaving an opening about two feet square, over which is stretched a piece of walrus entrail that is so transparent that light comes through, which answers the pur- pose of a window. An entrance into the hut is made through an apartment con- structed similar to the hut, in the top of which a hole is left large enough to admit a person, and by means of a sort of stepladder he reaches the bottom. From this is a passagewa}', usually about two feet square, through which he must crawl on his hands and knees to reach the living room of the hut, perhaps fifteen or twenty feet away. At the end of the passage leading ZAKSRINER. I04 ALASKA. into the hut is a skin which is pushed aside " when one enters or goes out. When this is closed over the hole, the apartment is practically airtight, and when occupied b}' a dozen or more persons the air soon becomes so foul that one side of the little skin window has to be pulled up to let it escape. Occasionally a hut is found where the occupants appreciate the value of fresh air and have inserted a wooden spout in the roof through which the impure air is allowed to escape. No tables or chairs are ever used by the Eskimo, and the onl}^ article found in the w^aj' of furniture is their stove, or, more properly speaking, lamp. They are all of one pattern, usually of wood, but sometimes of stone, and are shaped the same as a circular board would be if cut in halves. The center of the lamp is hollowed out to a depth of perhaps a half inch, thus leaving a ridge all around. Along the circle of this ridge is spread a sort of cotton, gathered from a wild shrub in summer. This answers for a lamp wack, and when saturated with seal oil will burn a long time before being consumed. The lamp is placed on two wooden pins driven into the logs on one side of the hut, and above the lamp is driven another w^ooden pin, on which is placed a piece of seal blubber, just far enough from the flame to cause the oil to drip sufficiently to furnish fuel for the lamp. The Eskimo may be truly said to burn the midnight oil, for their lamps are never suffered to go out from the time they are lighted in the fall until they abandon their huts for the tent in summer. They are their only stove, and for heating purposes are excellent. The Eskimo are, as a rule, industrious. It is seldom that a lazy person is seen among either sex. They early learn that an existence is only to be had bj- apph-ing themselves to some task, and the older they grow the more they are impressed with the knowledge that they can satisfy the cravings of an empt}^ stom- ach only by industrious labor. The preparation of skins requires ceaseless exertion, and when they are ready to be made up, sinew thread must be braided and twisted, which of itself is an art. This is one of the first things a young girl is taught, and while she is yet almost an infant is capable of preparing thread from deer or whale sinew with all the dexterity of a woman. Most women are ex- pert sewers, and their stitches are often as even and regular as could be made by a machine. KsKiMO Boy, Eskimo Hut, Eskimo Girls, Eskimo Family, Eskimo Spearing Walrus. ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 105 It is probably from the fact that the Eskimos are obliged to put an endless amount of labor into nearly everything they make, that is to be found the secrect of their everlasting patience. They will scrape at a skin a long time before hardly an impression is made upon it, and rub and pull at one when it is hard and stiff. Their delicately formed hands seem poorly adapted to such kind of work , but in the end the skin becomes soft and pliable. Their hands are, without exception, small and prettily shaped. Kven among those women who are tall and slimly built their hands are unusually small and shapely. The same is true of their feet ; and this feature, so prominent among the female sex, is also universal among the men. The complexion of the Eskimo is also of a character that one would scarcely expect to find among people who are brought so much in contact with the ele- ments. Although the color of their skin borders strongly on the olive order, it seems soft and clear. In eating, the Eskimo all sit around in a circle, and the food is placed on the floor in the center of the group. No meal, whether it be of dried or frozen fish, seal or whale meat, is ready to be eaten until a vessel containing seal oil is at hand. This is placed in a position easily reached by those eating, and, before taking a bite of anything, it is first dipped into the oil, or two or three fingers are thrust into it, and then placed into the mouth and sucked. Such a thing as a spoon is rarely ever used by them, and it is doubtful if many of them would understand its use if they had one. It is when a household of Eskimo are gathered about the floor partaking of their food that their natural disposition to mirth is given full sway, and every meal, whether in their huts or in the tent on the beach, partakes more of the nature of a family re- union than an everyday occurrence. They are naturally given to jest and laughter, and a continual hubbub reigns until the last morsel is eaten. This predisposition toward good nature is always present A surly Eskimo is rarely seen, and whether it rains or shines, or the wind blows a blizzard from the north pole, they are the same happy and apparently contented people. The Eskimo have but one standard measure, and that is the fathom. It means as much as a man can span by holding his arms out at right angles to his body, and this measures about six feet. When buying calico or drilling of the whites, or measuring io6 ALASKA. the dimensions of a boat or lo.^;-, or for an}- other purpose, it is always so many fathoms, or "e sung nuk," as it is called by them. If a woman wants to make a present, the only thing that sug- gests itself to her, and in fact the only thing she ever gives to a lover, is a tobacco pouch, or "tee rum i ute," as it is called. These they make of reindeer or squirrel skin in various styles, and decorate them with beads or some fancy-colored fur, such as the ermine, either in its delicate yellow tinge of summer or the pure white it assumes in winter. The Eskimo still cling to the primitive manner of making fire with flint stone and their little pieces of steel, usually a piece of an old file, and flint are as much a part of one's personal belong- ings as the coat he wears upon his back. They carry these articles in a little bag, in the bottom of which are little wads of the same fibrous material used for wicks for their oil lamps, and w^hich is gathered from a wild bush in the fall of the year. In making a light, they take a small piece of this cotton, which has previously been rolled in wood ashes, and, holding it between the thumb and flint, strike the steel against the stone, and the sparks emitted ignite the cotton, which is blown into a flame. It is a crude way of getting a fire started, but is one of the most simple and interesting of their customs, for it comes from a period of time when the Eskimo had to depend upon their own resources for obtaining a fire, and before they knew anything about the usefullness of the match of civilization. The Eskimo are complete slaves to tobacco, and it is seldom that one is seen who does not use it in one form or another. All the men and most of the women smoke, while a child, after it reaches the age of five or six years, appears not to be a true representative of his race if he cannot smoke a pipe or chew tobacco. While nearly all the women smoke, they take to chewing more naturally, and they do it so quietly that one would not suspect it from their actions. They never spit, and only crunch it occa- sionally, ])referring to suck it or allow it to lie quietly in the mouth, and, as spittle accumulates, swallow it. They can not understand why a white man spits when chewing or smoking, for they seem to find pleasure in the halMt only from swallowing the juice. If a native is chewing and wants to eat he carefully ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 107 takes the quid of tobacco from his mouth and puts it on top of his ear. From this place it is afterwards taken to be again put in his mouth, and this process is repeated until he has gotten all the substance he can from the tobacco. It is then carefully put away in his tobacco pouch, to eventually find its wa}- to his pipe, and the end of that tobacco is not reached until it is wafted away in clouds of smoke. An Eskimo who is without tobacco is as wretched as a confirmed drunkard without his whisky, and he will go to as great extremes to secure it as he would to pro- cure food for himself and family. It is the first thing he asks for when a white man approaches him, and the first article he wants to trade for when he has furs to sell. The oomiak, or skin boat, is a curiously constructed affair, and when standing on the beach looks lumbering and awkward and as if it would not carry a heavy load or ride much of a sea ; yet as many as thirty or forty persons often get in one, and when thus loaded it will ride in rough water with remarkable buoy- ancy. The usual size of the oomiak is about thirty-five feet long, six feet beam^ about four feet deep in the middle, and comes almost to a point at both ends. It is built something after the shape of a dory. The frame work is made of pieces of timber, the heaviest of which is about three inches square. These are placed crosswise in the bottom of the boat, and across them are lashed small strips by means of seal thongs, each joint being made to fit closelj'. When the timbers are firmly lashed together, they are very strong, and a heavy sea striking the side of the boat will not cause it to yield at a single joint. When the framework is finally read}-, walrus or sealskin is stretched over it, the pieces sewed together and pulled as tightly as possible, and then lashed to the top-rail. When the skin is in place scarcely a drop of water can penetrate through the seams. Over the top-rail about two feet of the skin is allowed to hang loosely on the inside, the whole length of the boat, and when sailing in rough weather, slats are raised between the skin and frame, the loose skin pulled up, thus giving about two feet more of surface above the sea, and if carefully managed, scarcely a drop of water can reach the inside in the roughest weather. The oomiak has no keel and therefore cannot beat or tack against the wind, and the only thing to do if it blows too hard, is to seek the first landing that can be made. io8 ALASKA. There is generally but one mast to the oomiak, and this stands about one-third of the length back from the bow, and when there is no wind it is taken down and laid in the boat. Sometimes, when the wind is fair, a second but smaller mast is placed about the same distance from the stern of the boat, but they are only used in the largest oomiaks. The lower end of the mast is inserted in a slot between timbers in the bottom of the boat, and gU5's extend from near the top to both sides and also to both bow and stern. One not used to the oomiak is in constant dread of moving about, for fear that if he should step between the framework he will make a hole in the skin, for the water is plainly seen through it. The natives pay little attention to where they step in going from one part of the boat to another, and although their feet will depress the skin two or three inches, there is no danger of its giving way, and the very spot they are standing on would doubtless hold up a ton. The k)^ak used by the Eskimo is similar in construction and style to the skin canoe or bidarka found among the natives along the southern coast of Alaska. It is not much used by the coast Eskimo, as they do most of their traveling by water in the oomiak, but those in the interior use them to greater extent in navigating on the rivers and lakes, they being so light that they can carrj^ them about with very little trouble. They are gen- erally the single-hatch kyak, but occasionally one is found with two or three holes and capable of carrying as many persons. An article of clothing that is indispensable among the Eskimo is the " kar pee tuk " or rain coat. It is made from the entrails of the seal or walrus, strips about three inches wide being sewed together and made so as to slip over the head like an artiger. It is identical in shape and made the same as the " kamalika " worn by the natives along the southern coast of the territory. If care- fully sewed it is water-tight, and will weigh but a few ounces. It is rather a neat and tasteful looking garment when dry, and rustles like silk, but when wet has a slick or slimj^ appearance strongly suggestive of the part of the animal from which it is made. A mark which serves as a good means of determining the sexes is that worn by the females, which consists of three or five lines about an eighth of an inch wide on the chin, which resem- bles tattooing made with India ink. Instead of pricking it in, a ESKIMO HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 109 sharp instrument is drawn over the skin until blood comes, and wood ashes are then rubbed in. This practice is almost universal, and is usuall}- put on when a girl reaches about the age of eight years. Among the men the practice of wearing labrets is common, though not so universally adopted as tattooing among the women. These labrets are worn on either side of the lower lip, an aper- ture having been punctured with some pain and much care for the purpose. The most popular style is about a half- inch in diameter, but sometimes they reach the enormous size of an inch. They are usualh' made of highly polished ivorj'- with a colored bead in the center, and are occasionally worn on both sides of the chin. Glass stoppers are much sought after for this purpose, but not much worn on account of being difficult to obtain. The tattooing by the women and wearing of labrets by the men have no significance other than being considered an adorn- ment for the face. Some of the women have the middle latch of the nose pierced, from which beads are su.spended, but they are considered troublesome and are being abandoned. The favorite manner of having the ears pierced by the women is just above the end, from which two or three strings of beads are suspended, passing from one ear to the other under the chin. The younger women wear beads wound around their hair, which is first braided on both sides, and occasionally bracelets and neck- laces of beads are worn. The men seldom tattoo their arms or hands, and their only peculiaritj' of dress is wearing the labret and .shaving the crowns of their heads. Plurality of wives is a practice that is b}- no means common, and when it does occur it is among men who, by virtue of their possessing more property than their neighbors, are able to sup- port more than one wife. When the custom prevails, there appears to be no disturbing or quarrelsome disposition, and if there is any, the aggrieved woman bottles her wrath, doubtless from fear that she will be turned out to shift for herself, which is more to be dreaded than an}- pang of envy or jealousy she might experience. The Arctic Alaska Eskimo is, physically, a fine specimen of the human race. While as a rule they will not average over five feet six or eight inches in height, occasionally a six-footer is found, but he is a very rare exception. They are not by any no ALASKA. means dwarfish in stature or slow and sluggish in their move- ments; neither are thej- dull and stupid intellectually. The casual observer might think them so, for they appear subdued and reserved when among the whites; but when away from them and left to act freely, they are bright, cheerful and intelligent. A stout or corpulent Eskimo is never seen. Their whole life is one which calls into play everj- muscle of the bodj'', and they are distinctly an athletic race. Not a pound of superfluous flesh is on their closely knitted frames, and, while their hands, lower limbs, and feet are very small, their chests and shoulders are grandly developed, and their arms are muscular and sinewy. They are very fond of athletic .sports, and football and jump- ing are practiced by them to a considerable extent. They in- dulge in many exercises that test their strength, such as pulling each other's arms when locked together, wrestling, lifting each other or heavy weights, and many such exercises that will bring into play every muscle. Many of them excel in jumping and kicking, and occasionally one is found who can kick with both feet higher than his own head, a performance that few white athletes can accomplish. Little Zaksriner, whose picture ap- pears at the opening of this chapter, performs a most wonderful feat. She clasps her hands behind her back, bending forward until her head touches the floor, and straightens up without bending her knees or unclasping her hands. The principal amusement of the Eskimo, however, is dancing, and they indulge in it upon the slightest provocation. While the women take part in this pastime, it is with moderation, and as a sort of embellishment to the fatiguing and wearisome jump- ing about so ceaselessl}' practiced by the men. They seem to find the most enjoyment in blending their voices with those of the men in song. Although the}^ do not possess the accomplish- ment to a very great extent, nor is the number of tunes very large, j^et there is a harmony in them all that becomes the more pleasing to the ear the oftener they are heard. When dancing, one or more of the men beat upon a drum made by stretching a piece of walrus entrail over a hoop, and this serves as a time-marker for the participants in the dance, to which the grotesque throwing about of the arms and twisting of their bodies are madi to add a pantomimic accompaniment. During all this time they jump and whirl about in the most vio- lent manner, and only stop from sheer exhaustion. CHAPTER XII. REINDEER. F^IVE years ago a United States revenue cutter, which was detailed bj'^ the government to patrol the Arctic, so as to render assistance to the whaling vessels if the}^ should be nipped in the ice, had occasion to pass within sight of a little island in North Bering sea, and about forty miles from the coast, known as King's island. The man on the lookout at once noticed a boat put off from the island, loaded with people, and it immediately paddled toward the vessel. As soon as it came alongside the occupants made known to the captain that they were in a starv- ing condition. An officer was at once sent ashore, and he soon returned and reported that the people were so reduced for food that the}'^ had been living for some weeks on their Eskimo dogs. There are about 300 Eskimos on this island, and they live in huts dug into the side of a mountain, gaining an entrance and passing from one to another b}' means of pole ladders strung along an abrupt portion of it, and, though difficult of access, the location of the huts affords protection from the severe winds and cold of the long winter. For eight months in the year, the ice absolutely prevents the natives from having any communication with those on shore, and they only come in contact with them when they venture across the water in their skin boats during the brief summer. A few j-ears ago the walrus existed in large numbers through- out all this region. The whalers on their way north have hunted them so closely that they have practically exterminated them. The walrus travel in herds, pulling out on the ice, sleeping and basking in the sun, and in this condition become an easy prey to the white man with his breech-loading rifle. The}^ are hunted by the whalers simply for their ivorj' tusks, a pair of them weighing from eight to twenty pounds, and having a value of only about eighty cents per pound. The ivory is used by the 112 ALASKA. natives in the manufacture of many of their implements of the hunt and chase, their skin is used by them for tents and cover- ings for their boats and canoes, and the flesh and oil are consid- ered b}^ them a delicacy. Five or six years ago it was not an uncommon thing for a party of Eskimo to put out in a skin boat, and with their crude harpoon and spears, capture a whale, but the American whalers have so closely pursued them, that now they are only found a long distance north of the last settlement. During the summer of 1894, but one whale was caught by the Eskimo. A single whale will average from twelve hundred to two thousand pounds of whalebone. Its market value is from four to six dollars per pound, and it is easily seen that a whaler that captures three or four whales in a season, comes pretty near paying for his ship, outfit and the risk he runs in entering those icy fields in search of this valuable animal. Since the advent of the whalers man\' natives have bought muzzle-loading rifles and ammunition from them, and have hunted the wild reindeer, killing them off without regard to age or sex, until they, too, are practically exterminated. A few years ago they roamed all through Arctic Alaska in large herds, but the past year but two of them were killed by these people. Thus it will be seen that the greed of the white man has robbed these people of two of their principal food supplies, until to-day they are left in almost a starving condition, being obliged to depend almost entirely upon the hair seal and small fish for their food supply. Dr. Sheldon Jackson was on board the revenue cutter when it visited King's i.sland, and on his return to Washington City, he interested the government in behalf of the starving Eskimo, and secured an appropriation for the purpose of introducing reindeer from Siberia, where they exist in immense herds. The purpose contemplated being to establish stations in different parts of Arctic Alaska, instruct the Eskimo in the manner of rearing them, and when they learn to care for them, as the natives do in Siberia, distribute them among the natives so that in the future they will have an unfailing food and clothing supply. The author of this book was selected by the government to establish a reindeer station at Port Clarence, and in the summer of 1892, one hundred and seventy of these animals were brought over from the Siberian coast and the station duly organized. ^ ■ Kings Island, North Bering Sea. REINDEER. 113 The increase the first year was nearly fifty per cent, and other reindeer have been brought over each year since, so that there are now nearly seven hundred in the herd. Arctic Alaska is peculiarly adapted to the raising of reindeer. It consists of vast areas of tundra and moss which furnishes the reindeer with an article of food especially adapted for their suste- nance. There is little doubt that the reindeer industry will, in the near future, asssume considerable proportions, and private companies will embark in the business of raising this animal in these regions for commercial purposes, the same as stock-raising is followed in the grazing regions in man}- of the States of the Union. Its flesh is excellent and as palatable as the venison usually found in the market, and the hides, if cured in the proper season, are well adapted to many purposes of commerce. The color of the fur of the reindeer is varied. Perhaps the most common is the seal-brown, and when free from other shades is decidedly rich in appearance. The fur, for such it may prop- erly be called, after it has taken on its summer coat is soft and glossy and about the length of that of the fur-seal. When taken at this season, if properly dressed, it sheds ver}- little. The skin is soft and pliable, and but little thicker than that of the fur-seal. The reindeer skin was at one time the only one used by the natives for their clothing, tents, and everything else, but now the seal and ground squirrel skins pla}^ an important part. Reindeer skins have become a matter of luxury with the natives, and onh- those who deny themselves other things that they need for their comfort, wear reindeer clothing. In the country about Kotze- bue Sound occasionally a skin is secured from a wild reindeer, but is so rare that it assumes somewhat the nature of a curiosity. Thus it will be seen that, practically, all the reindeer skins used by the Alaskan Eskimo come from Siberia. CHAPTER Xlir. MISSIOXARIES AND THKIR WORK. TT was in 1793, that Catherine, Empress of Russia, sent mis- sionaries to Russian America to instruct the natives in religion, and at the same time, also sent convicts from Siberia to teach them agriculture. The result of this strange admixture was, that, in ten years, the number of natives was largely reduced, the outrages of unscrupulous men being so unspeakable. The lives of natives were valued no more than those of dogs ; and the spirit and life were nearly stamped out of such as survived. The Russian proverb — "Heaven is high and the czar dis- tant" — was followed literally, and the indignities practiced upon the unfortunate natives were without limit. A few priests of the Greek faith tried to stem the tide, but succeeded in an indifferent manner. Their missions were established at different points on the coast, and even in the interior. The natives, attracted by the pomp and ceremony of the church, were attentive listeners and ob- servers. But they understood very little, and not much informa- tion was imparted, aside from teaching the Russians and half- breed children the rites of the church. Indian attendance was not encouraged in the Russian schools. During the Russian occupancy. Fins, Swedes, and Germans were largely employed by the fur company, and a Lutheran mis- sionary was sent out to Sitka for their benefit, and a mission established in 1845. The Russian schools and churches, for the most part, were closed in 1867, when the American flag dis- placed that of Russia ; and Russians and other Europeans returned to their respective countries, leaving the people "cor- rupted and degraded by their influence. ' ' The Lutheran preacher with his flock also departed. United States soldiers were placed in frontier posts, and a new set of traders took the places of the former ones. For seventeen years Congress neglected to provide any form of civil government for her new possessions ; all progress was checked, and healthful development was at a discount. This MISSIONARIES AND THEIR WORK. 115 was, no doubt, due to the bitter denunciations of the purchase of Alaska, and the ridicule heaped upon what was sneeringly referred to as 'Seward's folly." Alaska was considered by the great American people as a whole to be an inhospitable region of perpetual snow and ice ; peopled by ignorant, fierce and degraded savages— notwithstanding the statement which has been so often quoted from Mr. Seward's speech on Alaska: "That it must be a fastidious person who complains of a climate in which, while the eagle delights to soar, the humming bird does not disdain to flutter. ' ' Finally, the tales of gold discovery, coupled with the work of American and other missionaries, stimulated our government into attempting an assumption of its duty. It is an undoubted fact, that the present geographical knowledge of this vast coun- try has been largely gained through devoted missionaries, and it is also due to this class of persons that the natives have learned "that the white men are not all bad, ' ' a belief strongly implanted in their minds from their intercourse with viscious traders, and unscrupulous persons. To Dr. Sheldon Jack- son, who first visited Alaska in 1884, is due, in a large measure, the present excellent condi- tion of the Alaska school system. He saw for him- self the degradation and ignorance which prevailed among the natives, and the virgin field offered for educational and other work. Through his efforts, Mrs. A. R. McFarland, an intrepid woman, took up the work at Fort Wrangel, where a native teacher named Philips had, un- aided, sought to elevate DR. SHELDON JACKSON. ^hg moral status of his people, and instruct them in civil methods. Mrs. McFarland became nurse, doctor, undertaker, preacher and teacher. No marriage ceremony then existed amo.ig the natives,[and poly- ii6 ALASKA. gam}^ slaver)^ and devil dances were common. Her untiring efforts did much to eradicate these evils, and further substantial progress. She left Fort W'rangel a few years later,, and is now engaged in the same work at the lower portion of Prince of "Wales Island, where she is loved and respected by the natives. In 1885, Congress made an appropriation for the Alaska pub- lic school system, and Dr. Jackson was appointed General Agent of Education for the territory. In this capacity he has estab- lished schools in the most advantageous points throughout the whole territory, and the apportionment of the public moneys, among the already established church denominations, has made the missionary work of Alaska a mighty bulwark of religious strength for the welfare of the natives. Dr. Jackson is truly a pioneer christian worker. After many years of arduous duty in a number of the western territories, he sought a new field in the great Alaskan territor}-. He was confronted by the totally un- organized state of the country, devoid of laws or government, but his indomitable spirit was not held down by difficulties — he gained the ear of the powers at Washington — and his earnest, fervent faith is daily proved by his works. To Dr. Jackson also belongs the credit of importing reindeer from Siberia to Arctic Alaska. While in search of new fields for missionary and school work, he discovered that the Eskimos were starving. He at once interested government in the cause, and to-day the industry of domesticating reindeer in that section is an assured fact. In this connection it is proper to add that this humane propo- sition was at first met with severe criticism and opposition on the grounds that it was impracticable and a useless expenditure of public money. And were it not that Mr. Harris, X'nited States Commissioner of Education, gave it his hearty support and encouragement, the most beneficent act ever extended to a worthy and starving people, would not have become as it has, an assured success. And to this broad-minded and worthy official who has stood faithfully by the cause of education in Alaska, is also largely due the credit of its advancement in this far off territory. The first school in Alaska was organized at Kadiak by Gregory Shelikoff, in 1784. And the first church building was also4.here erected; it still exists, but the school has been extinct for a quar- ter of a century. The Indian industrial training schools have proved excellent institutions. Among these three deserve especial mention. MISSIONARIES AND THEIR WORK. 117 They are located at Sitka, Koserefski on the Yukon, and at New Metlakahtla. The founder and director of the latter is ]\Ir. William Duncan, to whose work reference is made elsewhere in this volume. The school at Sitka is partially aided by this gov- ernment and is under the management of the Presbyterian Board of Home Alissions, and that of Koserefski is under Roman Cath- olic supervision. In these schools the boys are taught painting, carpentry, shoemaking and other trades. The girls are instructed in cook- ing, baking, sewing and all branches of plain housekeeping, the purpose in short of these schools being to civilize and chris- tianize the native children. The number of private schools supported by various religious denominations, is nineteen, while the number supported by the government is sixteen. The Russian church, established so long ago, has many communicants, but many of them retain their belief in witchcraft, polygamy and kindred barbarous prac- tices. The indefatigable efforts of teachers and missionaries, their absolute devotion to the work of civilization and christianizing the natives of Alaska, has been of incalculable benefit to this hitherto neglected people. There has been mental, moral and physical growth, who.se influence is far-reaching, and which should command the hearty sympathy and support of all humani- tarians, irrespective of class or creed. The Greek church, so early in the field, had a few — a very few — noble exceptions among their priests who did good work for the natives. Father Tosi, of the Ronxin Catholic faith, has labored long years with devotion on the Yukon. Father Althoff after sixteen 3'ears of Alaskan labor has been appointed to work in Vancouver, British Columbia. He opened the mission work in Juneau, founded there the school and hospital of St. Anns and the Roman Catholic church. Through many discouragements and uncer- tainties. Father Althoff and the good sisters labored at Juneau, receiving nothing for their services save their frugal board and modest apparel. Upon his departure to his new field, the Scarcliliglif, of Juneau, on February' 25th, 1895, gave a most fitting tribute to his services, which concluded thus: "As a priest, the prayers of his people will go with him, as a citizen he will be greatl}- missed ; as one of the worthy pioneers of the ALASKA. territorj^ he will ever be held in grateful remembrance b}- all who feel an interest in the welfare of Alaska." Rev. Hall Young and wife, formerly at Fort Wrangel, Pro- fessor and Mrs. John A. Tuck, of the Methodist Episcopal church, stationed at Unalaska, Mr. and Mrs. \V. T. Lopp, Con- gregational, at Cape Prince of Wales, Mr. and Mrs. I. Loomis Gould, Presbyterian, at Jackson, Rev. and Mrs. E. A. Austin, Pr-esbyterian, at Sitka, have all worked for a number of years with a devotion rarely equalled. II.\RRISON R. THORNTON. The noble family of martyrs have also been recruited within Alaskan borders. Father Juvenal, a Russian priest, was killed at Cook inlet for his interference with polygamy. Archbishop Seghers, of the Roman Catholic church, was murdered on the Yukon by a traveling companion. A teacher named Fid wards was killed at Kake village in 1891, while attempting to enforce the law in regard to the landing of whisky, and in the summer of 1893, Harrison R. Thornton, a young missionary and teacher who, with his wife, was stationed at Cape Prince of Wales, was cruelly murdered by ]'