..■J? .^^ "^^ '^o -' "i, V".*. ^^^r, V. U^ A^ *^& '% a"^ ^o A^ -tit • 1 I REPORT ON WIND CAVE, CRATER LAKE, SULLYS HILL, AND PLATT NAltPNAL PARKS, CASA GRANDE RUIN AND MINNESOTA NATIONAL ^r, FOREST RESERVE 1908 COMPILED IN THE OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1909 El i^o rus87 , 25 1909 / REPORT ON WLND CAVE, CRATER LAKE, SULLYS HILL, AND PLATT NATIONAL PARKS, CASA GRANDE HUIN, AND MINNE- SOTA NATIONAL FOREST RESERVE. AVIND CAVK NATIONAL PARK. By the act of Congress approved January 9, 1903 (32 Stat., 765) ; a tract of land containing 10,522 acres in the State of South Dakota, 12 miles east of the town of Hot Springs and the same distance south- east of Custer, was reserved and withdrawn from settlement, entry, sale, and other disposition, and set apart as a public park, to be known as the " Wind Cave National Park." The park is placed under the exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, who, among other things, is authorized to prescribe rules and regulations and establish such service as may be deemed necessary in its management and protection, and, in his discretion, to rent or lease the cave from wdiich the park takes its name, and also parcels of land for the erection of buildings for the accommo- dation of visitors. The fund arising from such rentals is covered into the Treasury and made available for expenditure in the care and improvement of the park. At the time of the creation of the ]Dark there were 10 entries cover- ing lands therein, aggregating 1,519.15 acres, 5 of which, covering 799.76 acres, have since been canceled, and the remaining 5 entries have been found proper in all respects and patents issued therefor, as follows : NE. i NW. i aud NW. i NE. h sec. 35, T. 5 S., R. 5 E., Black Hills lueriaian ; Jonathan C. West ; F. C. 3003, patented December 31, 1904 ; SO acres. SE. i NE. J and lots 1 aud 2, sec. 2, T. 6 S., R. 5 E. ; George A. Stabler ; F. C. 2666; patented September 11, 1905; 159.39 acres. SE. i, sec. 2, same township and range; Susanna D. McDonald; C. E. 3770; patented December 10, 1S95 ; 160 acres. NE. i, sec. 11, same township and range; Kate M. Stabler; F. C. 2600; pat- ented September 26, 1902 ; 160 acres. XW. i, sec. 12, same township and range; Margarethe Dreukhahn; F. 0. 2434 ; patented May 8, 1901 ; 160 acres. This gives a total of 719.39 acres for patented lands remaining in the park, which, for administrative purposes, should be eliminated through appropriation by Congress for their purchase. The State of South Dakota has completed making lieu selections of lands outside the park for school sections 16 and 36, located within the reservation, granted by the statehood act of February 20, 1899 (25 Stat., 676). Mr. Seth Bullock, now marshal for the district of South Dakota, with the consent of the Attorney-General, has been continued in general charge of the reservation, in an advisory capacity, and the 3 4 XATTONAL PARKS. superintendent, JNIr. William A. Rankin, confers with him in regard to its administration. This course has aided very much in the effective management during the jDast season. A revocable privilege has been granted to the wife of the super- intendent, in the absence of other accommodations in the park, to furnish meals to tourists at 50 cents each, which service has proved very satisfactory in the past. The superintendent recommends that the old building heretofore occupied for serving these meals, which was constructed in 18<<)3 by John Stabler and sons, and is now in a ver}' dilapidated condition, be torn down and removed. He suggests that some one willing to construct a good, substantial hotel in the park be given the privilege to do so. During the season eight permits were granted for the transporta- tion of passengers in and through the reservation, at the rate of $50 per vehicle, such fee being charged in the case of liverymen, outfitters, and others operating for proMt. One of these permits Avas for auto- mobile transportation. No applications were received for the driving of cattle or other stock through the park. The first regulations for the government of the Wind Cave Na- tional Park were promulgated June 10, 1908, and provide, among other things, as follows : 1. It is forbidden to remove or injure the specimens or formation in and around the Wind Cave, or to deface tlie same by written inscription or other- wise, or to injure or disturb iu any manner or carry off any of the mineral depo'sits, specimens, natural curiosities, or wonders on the government lands within the parlv. 2. No person shall be permitted to enter the cave unless accompanied by the superintendent or other park employee, or by competent guides. Regulations corresponding to those heretofore issued for the other national parks, providing for the impounding of loose live stock found in the Wind Cave National Park, were also promulgated. Settlers and stock owners in the vicinity have protested against the execution of such regulations, claiming that the}^ have alwaj's used the park lands as a free range, and, as the park is not fenced, would find it very difficult to keep their stock outside of the boundaries. Such persons were given a reasonable time to remove the trespassing stock, and the enforcement of the impounding regulations was tem- porarily suspended. It will apparently be necessary to construct a fence entirely around the park as a protective measure against trespassing stock, and an appropriation for such purpose is recommended. There have been no forest fires in or near the park during the year. Wild animals are quite numerous, especially the prairie wolf. Others are the black-tail deer, white-tail deer, badger, prairie dog, skunks, squirrels, and porcupine, the last named doing a great deal of damage to trees. There are also a few grouse, quail, ducks, and numbers of hawks, eagles, robins, thrushes, Avoodpeckers, and magpies. About $1,500 was expended during the past fiscal year for improve- ments as follows: Repairing roads and bridges, repairing fences, leveling up trails in Wind Cave and repairing stairs, opening up new chambers in the cave, purchase of flag and flagstaff, etc. It is reported that the roads to the southern entrance are in good condition, but need widening out to allow room for the passing of NATIONAL PAEKS. 5 teams. The bridges are also in fair condition, but the superintend- ent suggests the use of buihling stone to be found in the park for replacing the piling under the spans Avith stone abutments. During the year the registry of visitors to the park showed a total of 3,171, an increase of 420 over the number of tourists in 1907. None of this number camped in the reservation for more than one day. An estimate for an appropriation of $5,400 for the protection and improvement of the park has been submitted to Congress. This in- cludes salary of the superintendent and $2,800, the estimated cost of fencing the park to prevent depredations by live stock. CRATER LAKE KATIO?<^AL PARK. By the act of Congress approved May 22, 1902 (32 Stat., 202), the tract of land bounded on the north bj^ the parallel 43° 4' north lati- tude, south by 42° 48' north latitude, east by the meridian 122° west longitude, and west by the meridian 122° 16' west longitude, having an area of 249 square miles, or 159,360 acres, in the State of Oregon, and including Crater Lake, was reserved and withdrawn from settle- ment, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set apart forever as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit of the people, to be known as " Crater Lake Nationml Park." The act setting aside these lands for park purposes differed from legislation creating other national parks in that it provided, among other things, that the reservation should be open " to the location of mining claims and the working of the same." It was not believed, however, to be the purpose of this provision to extend the mining laws to the reservation without limitation, but only to authorize the location and working of mining claims therein in such manner as not to interfere with or prejudicially affect the general purpose for which the reservation was established. The regulations for the gov- ernment of the park, which were reissued June 10, 1908, clearly define the conditions under which this privilege is to be exercised. The Geological Survey has, at the request of this department, undertaken a topographic resurvey of this reservation, with a view to securing, for administrative purposes, a map which Avill be authentic in every particular. Since the date of the superintendent's last report, various improve- ment work on buildings and fences was completed, also the installa- tion of the hydraulic ram for pumping water to the superintendent's office and residence, and the making of a ditch to carry off the waste water from the ram and for irrigating the surrounding grounds. Upon the approach of the winter season, in November, the boat on Crater Lake and all tools and implements were properly housed, the flooring was removed from bridges, and the fences braced to with- stand the weight of the heavy snows, which commonly fall to a depth of 6 or 8 feet at the south line of the park and from 12 to 20 feet at the superintendent's residence. November 22, 1907, the superin- tendent and his family left the reservation. ])ut a few visits were made thereto during the winter months. In ]\fay of the present year the superintendent returned to his residence in the parlc. finding all ]iro]-)orty in good condition with 6 NATIONAL PAEKS. the exception of the barn, Avhich had been injured bj' the wind or lightning. Park Ranger H. E. Momyer was employed to assist in the management of the reservation during the tourist months. Work was then inaugurated on improvements, Tavo temporary structures were erected for the use of workmen, roads and trails to a total of about 20 miles repaired and improved, the barn repaired, and about 2 miles of fence constructed to inclose pasture and meadow lands. The roofs of buildings are made with three-fourths pitch in order that the snow ma}^ slide off instead of crushing them in. The road system is as follows: One road entering the park at the southern boundary and running in a northwesterly direction along the Anna Creek Canj^on a distance of 8 miles, and terminating at the Crater Lake post-office; a second entering the reservation from the west, running in a due easterly direction, and terminating at the same point; and a third beginning at the post-office and running northeasterly a distance of 5 miles to the rim of the crater. These have been kept in good condition for travel bj^ all kinds of vehicles, but the superintendent reports that further improvements, such as widening, straightening, and providing turnouts, are necessar3^ There are four trails in the park at the present time; one leading from the rim of the crater down to the waters of Crater Lake, with a descent of 901 feet in a distance of 2,3G5 feet; one from the super- mtendent's headquarters to the pinnacles on Sand .Creek and Mount Scott, and trails from headquarters to Union Peak and Bybee Creek. The first-mentioned trail is m.uch used by visitors, and it is important that it be kept continually in a good condition. Iron posts and 2,400 feet of cable were purchased last 5^ear for the improvement of this trail, but the small appropriation for the current year would not per- mit of the utilization of such material, and only temporarj^ repairs could be made. The other trails are at present little more than mere tracks of horses from one point to another. The superintendent suggests that the trail to Sand Creek and Mount Scott should be speedily converted into a good wagon road, to fill the demand of visitors that the beautiful scenery be made accessible ; also that new trails be constructed along the rim of the crater to the Watchman and Glacier Peak, and from the present wagon road to the crater, to Crater Peak, and down along Sun Creek. At the time of the creation of the park there were 15 land entries, covering 2.305.33 acres, 12 of Avhich, totaling 1,014:.22 acres, have been patented; homestead entry No. 2415 (160 acres), of John Fitzgerald, for S. 1 N. 1 of sec. 17, t. 32 S., R. 7^ E., was canceled by General Land Office letter of November 13, 1908; homestead entries Nos. 2620 and 2660, of John Wallace Dickey and Louis Stanosheck, total- ing 321.11 acres, are still intact upon the General Land Office records pending report from the local land office on adverse proceedings brought against the same. Included in the total of 2,395.33 acres is a considerable portion of homestead entry No. 2415 and timber land entries Nos. 2116 and 2120 (now patented), which extend be- yond the park boundary line. The title of the State of Oregon to school sections 16 and 36 within the park boundaries had been extinguished before the creation of the reservation, bv selection of other land in lieu thereof, except a tract containing 192.20 acres in the N. | of sec. 16, T. 32 S., R. 7| E., which has since been disposed of by the State to private parties. \ II NATIONAL PARKS. 7 The department recommends the condemnation and purchase of all private claims with a Adew to better administration. The superin- tendent believes that in the near future summer resort homes may be established upon such lands, which will increase the difficulties of administration and also add to the aggregate sum which the Gov- ernment will eventually have to pay the owners. The following permits were issued during the season for the driv- ing of stock through the park : In May to Henry Gordon, 250 head, en route to Fort Klamath; in August to A. V. Morrison, of Trail, Oreg., 12 head, but the stock has not yet been taken through; and in September to J. C. Pelton & Co., 100 head, en route from Prospect to Fort Klamath, which stock also failed to pass through. The number of valuable game animals appears to be increasing. Deer and black bears, lynx and coyotes were plentiful during the ]3ast summer, and panthers were seen in small numbers. There have been no depredations b}- these predatory animals. Of the smaller game and birds, there are squirrels, chipmunks, pine martins, fishers, grouse, timber pheasants, oriole, black-headed jay, camp robber or Rocky Mountain jay, and the snowbird. Broods of young ducks have been observed upon Crater Lake, also flocks of wild ducks rest- ing from their migratory flights, but it is thought tlie elevation of the lake, 6,177 feet above sea level, gives a climate too cold for the natural habitat of wild waterfowl. When the snow falls, all game animals, with possibly the exception of the black bear and small fur- bearing animals, as well as all birds, migrate to a lower and warmer climate. In view of the fact that no wintering grounds are now available in the park, the superintendent recommends the extension of the park boundaries to include a lower section of the country on the slope of the Cascade Mountains, to afford the necessary protec- tion to game. Fishing has been permitted in Crater Lake from July 1 to Septem- ber 30 with hook and line, each person being limited to five fish in one day. The only species in Crater Lake are the rainbow and lake trout; there were no fish in the lake naturall}^, but these were planted about twenty years ago, and the increase has not been encouraging. In Anna Creek, below the falls, there is the Dolly Varden trout. There are no fish in the other park waters, and the Secretary of Commerce and Labor has been requested to investigate the condi- tions, and if practicable have the Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries supply some good varieties for Crater Lake and all other waters in Crater Lake National Park. No forest fires have been rejDorted during the past year, with the exception of a small one which started in the vicinity of the Pinnacles on Sand Creek about September 1. This was gotten under control and extinguished before it had gained much headway. Accommodations are provided for tourists by Mr. Will G. Steel, of Portland, Oreg., under license from this department, at camps maintained near the suiDerintendent's residence and at the lake. Ap- proximately 500 persons were cared for during 1908, but few of this number came into the reservation by the transportation service operated by Mr. Steel, the great majority using private conveyances. In connection with the wagon transportation and camp privilege Mr. Steel was also permitted to place a gasoline launch and a number of rowboats upon the lake. 8 NATIONAL PARKS. A registration book was kept to ascertain the number of visitors to the park, but for various reasons not half of the number were registered. The approximate total for the season, including campers and transient tourists, has been placed at 5,275, which would indicate that the popularity of the park is increasing from j^ear to year. Estimates have been submitted to Congress for the ensuing fiscal year, as follows: Salaries of superintendent and two temporary park rangers, and allowance to superintendent for the keep of one horse, $1,965; construction and repair of roads and trails, $15,800; con- struction and repair of bridges, $2,500; miscellaneous, $1,480; total, $21,745. SUIiT^YS HILL PARK. This reservation, set aside by executive proclamation dated June 2, 1904, under the act approved April 27, 1904 (33 Stat., 319), con- tains about 780 acres. It is located on the south shore of Devils Lake, North Dakota, having about 2 miles of shore line, with its western boundary 1 mile east of the Fort Totten Indian School. Inasmuch as no appropriation has been made for the care and protection of this reservation Mr. Charles M. Ziebach, in charge of the Indian Indus- trial School, Fort Totten, has been continued as acting superinten- dent, and required to exercise the necessary supervision and control over the same until appropriation is made therefor by Congress. The tract is well wooded and has an ample supply of water and many rugged hills, among which, on the western boundary, lies what is known as " Sullys Hill." In the southwestern part is a small body of water known as " Sweet Water Lake," west of which the surface is generally level and the soil good. Approximately 50 persons camped in the park for three days or more during the past summer, and 200 spent one day in sight-seeing. The steamboat landing is at least 2 miles from the park, and the acting superintendent recommends the building of a dock to allow boats to land within the park limits, to make it more accessible for visitors. Until this in done, as well as repair work upon roads, con- struction of new ones, the walling up of springs, etc., the reservation is not likely to be patronized to any extent. There are no buildings or improvements of any 'kind in the park. An estimate for an appropriation of $3,000 for the protection and improvement of the park has been submitted to Congi'ess. PLATT NATIONAL PARK. By the acts of Congress of July 1, 1902 (32 Stat., G41), and April 21, 1904 (33 Stat., 220), 629.33 and 218.89 acres, respectively, at the town of Sulphur, Okla. (then Indian Territory), were segregated as the " Sulphur Springs Reservation," which designation, by joint resolution approved June 29, 1906, was changed to " Piatt National Park." The park, with a total area of 848.22 acres, extends in irregular form a distance of approximately 3 miles from northeast to south- west along Sulphur Creek, including a portion of Eock Creek, which empties into Sulphur Creek, and has a circuit of 9 miles. Within the park are 33 known mineral and 2 nonmineral springs. The principal groups are the Bromide and Bromide-Sulphur springs NATIONAL PAEKS. 9 in the southwestern part of the park. Beach and Pavilion springs in the northwestern corner, and the Wilson group in the southern part. Sulphur springs predominate, but there are also bromide, soda, and iron varieties. The Antelope and Buffalo springs, nonmineral in character, are situated at the extreme northeastern end of the Piatt National Park, with an elevation of 1,083 feet above sea level, and an approximate discharge of 5,000,000 gallons daily into Sulphur Greek. The following is a statement of the mineral springs which have been to some extent developed and improved, together with the esti- mated daily flow in each case : Gallons. Bromide Springs (3) 275 Bromide-Siilplanr 250 Taff or Black Sulphur 500 Hillside 120,600 Pavilion Springs (7) 200,600 Beach Springs (3) 125,000 Wilson 1,000 Jericho 200 The amount of water per capita used on the premises, or taken away for individual use, averages one-half gallon dail}^ This statement applies to all but the Wilson and Jericho springs, from which the amount taken is inconsiderable. Regulations for the park were j)romulgated by the department June 10, 1908, those theretofore in force having been found totally inadequate to properly protect the park. Section 5 provides as follows : No person shall remove from any of the bromide, iron, or soda springs more than one gallon of water in any one day, nor remove from any of the other springs more than five gallons in any one day, nor shall any water be taken therefrom for commercial purposes except in jjursiiance of a license issued by the Secretary of the Interior. Whenever in his judgment the circumstances warrant, the superintendent may prohibit the use of the waters of any of the springs in the park other than for immediate drinking purposes at such springs, the facts in such case to be reported to the Secretary of the Interior. In spite of all efforts to prevent it, the superintendent reports tliat small quantities of water have been taken surreptitiously from the Bromide, Beach, and Pavilion springs. Xo water has been taken by permission for commercial purposes. On account of the popularity of Bromide Spring, and the small daily flow^, it has been necessary to restrict the amount of water which can be taken by each individual, and early in the fiscal year a watchman was placed at this point to oversee the distribution of the water and maintain order in the vicinity. The number of arrests for all causes was 11, the cases being dis- posed of as follows : Bound over to await action of grand jury, 2 ; convictions, 2; expulsions from park, 2; admonished and discharged. 7. The authority given under the new regulations is broader than before, and furnishes the means for punishing or restraining a certain lawless element in the vicinity of the park. The Department of Justice, upon the request of the Interior Department, appointed Mr. G. E. Nicholson as a United States commissioner, to reside at Sulphur, Okla., and persons violating the rules and regulations can now be brought before him and, if the offense warrants, be bound over for the action of the grand jury, which meets only at points re- mote from the park; this is a great improvement and the effect 71424—09 2 10 NATIONAL PAKKS. should be saliitnry. The departiiieiit has been advised of attempts to bhickuiail ])eihoiis in the Piatt National Park, impersonation of officers and threats against the lives of the rangers becanse of the enforcement of the regulations, and such cases have been brought to the attention of the United States attorney for the eastern dis- trict of Oklahoma, The superintendent's office and residence buildings have been con- nected by telephone with the quarters of the employees in different portions of the park, a chain of incandescent lights was installed in West Central Park, and the work of protecting the park from dam- age, nuisances, and forest fires has thereby become more effective. Approximately 6.000 head of domestic animals were driven through the park in the daytime. Stockmen, when marketing their animals during