.■•J.S,rt^5?-^2SJWTfFi;-.T: ;::-;nH!!"r!S-^- t Fashionable ClotMng for all Occasions Made in our own workrooms on the premises. Dress Suits. Sack Suits. Prince Alberts. Covert Coats, Outing Suits, Bicycle and Golf Suits, Fine Underwear, Hosiery, etc. Macullar Parker Company 400 WASH! LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Cliaj)..._/-3, Copyright sNo. 11^.. Shelf. J^4-_i3.ir UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. TIME AND THE HOUR The Characteristic Literary Weekly of Boston TIME AND THE HOUR aims to present each week the best sentiment of a City whose opinions and activities have never failed to carry weight throughout the Nation. In a briefer and more Amer- ican fashion, it is planned somewhat along the lines of the English reviews. " That admirable weekly." — Springfield Republican. '* Its distinctive and refreshing features are its indom- itable truthfulness and courage, its literary flavor, and its downright cleverness." — The Church. Single copies 5 cents. Subscriptions $2.00 a year. Sample copies on application. Time and the Hour Company 6 Beacon Street, Boston If you want to know about Winthrop Real Estate , see FLOYD AND TUCKER, 34 School Street, Boston, and at Winthrop. WALKS AND RIDES IN THE COUNTRY ROUND ABOUT BOSTON COVERING THIRTY-SIX CITIES AND TOWNS, PARKS AND PUBLIC RESERVATIONS, WITHIN A RADIUS OF TWELVE MILES FROM THE STATE HOUSE BY EDWIN M. BACON i^ -c '0 1 l^ulJtigbeb for tbe ?tppalacbian .JMountain Club bp HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY BOSTON AND NEW YORK (Cbc C^tnenfftDe Pre^^, Cambri^oe 1897 Copyright, 1897, By Appalachian Mountain Club. All rights reserved. The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A. Eleetrotyped and Printed by H. O, Houghton & Co. CONTENTS. The Boston Basin 1-G WiNTHROP, BeACHMONT, AND REVERE BEACH 7-17 Walk No. 1. — In Winthrop 7 Walk No. 2. — Beachmont ; Crescent Beach ; Revere Beach ... 14 East Boston and Chelsea 18-31 Walk No. 3. — Boston (North End) ; East Boston ; Breed's Island ; Beachmont 19 Walk No. 4. — In Chelsea : Powderhorn Hill ; Mount Washington ; Naval Hospital grounds ; site of Samuel Maverick's first house 2G Everett, Malden, Melrose, Saugus 32-46 Walk No. 5. — From Everett to Maiden : the Van Voi-fiees farm ; B.elmont Hill ; Woodlawn ; Linden ; Maiden Cen- tre 33 Walk No. 6. — From Maplewood (Maiden) to Cliftondale (Saugus) : Lebanon Street ; Swain's Pond ; Upham Street, Melrose ; the Saugus road ; the Ledges .... 37 Walk No. 7. — From Maiden to Saugus : Pine Banks ; Boston Rock ; Wj'oming ; Melrose ; North Saugus ; Cliftondale ; Saugus Centre •. 39 Middlesex Fells 47-65 Walk No. 8. — From Cascade Entrance, Melrose, to west of Pine Hill, Medford : the Cascade ; Black Rock ; Shilly Shally Brook ; Cairn Hill ; Hemlock Pool ; Spot Pond ; Silver Mine Hill 48 Walk No. 9. — From Pine Hill Entrance, Medford, to Wyoming (Melrose) : Pine Hill and woodlands ; Wright's Pond region ; Spot Pond ; Woodland Road ; Ra- vine Road ; Virginia Wood 52 Walk No. 10. — From Winchester Entrance to Melrose : Squaw Sachem Rock ; the Tower ; the Causeway ; Win- chester Reservoirs ; Bear Hill and Observatory ; Cheese Rock ; Doleful Pond 55 Walk No. 11. — From Maiden Entrance to Melrose Highlands : Bear's Den ; Boojum Rock ; Jerry Jingle Notch ; Hemlock Pool ; Shiner Pool ; Virginia Wood ; Saddleback Hill ; Whip Hill 61 IV CONTENTS. Charlestown and Somerville CG-81 Walk No. 12. — In Charlestown : Navy Yard ; Bunker Hill Monu- ment grounds ; the ancient graveyard, John Har- vard monument ; Charlestown Heights , . . . 67 Walk No. 13. — In Somerville : Prospect Hill ; Central Hill ; Revo- lutionary landmarks ; Old Powder House ; Tufts College 74 Medford 82-105 Walk No. 14. — Ten-Hills, on Mystic River side ; Old Medford : the Royall House ; Main Street ; old garrison house ; the Cradock House ; Wellington 82 Walk No. 15. — In West Medford : along the riverside ; Hastings Bluff ; High Street ; Provincial houses ; the In- dian monument ; the arch canal bridge ; the Weirs 99 Arlington, Turkey Hill, Mystic Ponds 106-118 Walk No. 16. — From Arlington, over Turkey Hill and by Mystic Parkway, to West Medford : Revolutionary land- marks ; Spy Pond 106 Walk No. 17. — Arlington side of Mystic Pond, the Parkway by Up- per Mystic side to Mystic Station (Winchester) . 117 Winchester and Woburn 119-145 Walk No. 18. — In Winchester : the Parkway ; Grove Street ; Symmes's Corner ; Winchester Centre ; Winches- * ter Highlands : the John Harvard allotment ; Horn Pond Brook ; Wedgmere ; Rangeley . . . 120 Walk No. 19. — In Woburn : North Woburn ; birthplace of Count Rumford ; the Baldwin mansion-house ; Hungry Plain ; Mt. Plainum ; Rag Rock ; Listening Hill ; Shaker Glen ; Military Lane ; Woburn Centre . 129 Walk No. 20. — Mishawum : Richardson's Pond ; New Boston ; Ames's Corner ; Forest Park ; Mt. Gilboa ; Meet- ing-house Hill 139 Walk No. 21. — From Cross Street Station to ilunroe Station, Lex- ington : Horn Pond and Horn Pond Mountain ; Ziou's Hill ; Munroe's Meadow 142 Lexington 146-109 Walk No. 22. — From East Lexington to Lexington Centre : Mt. In- dependence ; Munroe Hill ; Revolutionary land- marks ; Lexington Green and neighborhood ; the Hancock-Clarke house ; Granny Hill. By-walk to the birthplace of Theodore Parker 147 Walk No. 23. — From Munroe Station, by roundabout way, to Ar- lington Heights : the meadow and the ridge road ; field and wood paths ; Ridge and Forest streets . 165 Walk No. 24. — North Lexington : the Tidd Hill region ; Lover's Lane ; Robinson Hill 166 Concord, by way of Bedford 170-208 Walk No. 25. — In Bedford : the " Great Road " and its old houses ; " Fitch's Tavern ; " the Governor Winthrop Farm; CONTENTS. V the " Brother Rocks " on Concord River side ; the Shawshine Valley ; seventeenth century home- steads 173 Walk No. 26. — From West Bedford to Merriam's Corner, thence through Concord : literary and historic land- marks ; the Battle-ground ; the rivers .... 181 Walk No. 27. — In Concord woods 202 Watertown, Waverley, Belmont 209-230 Walk No. 28. — In Watertown and Waverley (Belmont) : Norse and Revolutionary landmarks ; Beaver Brook Reser- vation ; the Waverley Oaks 210 Walk No. 29. — From Waverley through Belmont to Mt. Auburn : Wellington Hill ; the McLean Asylum grounds ; Belmont Village ; Belmont Street ; Pequosset Hill 223 Cambridge 231-261 Walk No. 30. — Cambridgeport ; Old Cambridge ; the College Yard ; university buildings ; the old buryiug-ground be- tween the churches ; Radcliffe College ; Brattle Street; old "Tory Row;" Mt. Auburn; Norse landmarks ; Charles River side ; Soldiers Field . 231 Newton, Weston, Waltham 262-276 Walk No. 31. — From Brighton to Newton Lower Falls: Bigelow Hill ; Nonantum Hill ; the Eliot monument ; New- ton Central Boulevard ; Chestnut Street to New- ton Upper Falls ; the Hemlock Gorge Reservation ; Waban by the river side to the Lower Falls . , 263 Walk No. 32. — From Riverside, by way of Weston, to Waltham : the river path ; Weston roads ; Norumbega Tower; Norse dam and canals in roadside woods ; Pros- pect Hill 268 Beookline 277-299 Walk No. 33. — About Brookline Village and by circuit route to Chestnut Hill Reservoir : AspinwaU Hill ; Wahaut Street and the ancient burying-ground ; Warren Street ; Reservoir Lane ; Wright's Woods . . . 278 Walk No. 34. — From Village Square into rural parts : Leverett and Jamaica parks ; Perkins Street ; Goddard Ave- nue ; Clyde Park and the Country Club house ; Boylston Street ; Fisher Hill 289 Walk No. 35. — In Brookline woods 297 West Roxbury 300-310 Walk No. 36. — From Jamaica Plain, through West Roxbury Vil- lage, to Brook Farm : Jamaica Park ; historic houses ; Centre Street ; the Arnold Arboretum ; the Theodore Parker church ; Brook Farm woods ; Cow Island 300 Stony Brook Woods and Region 311-317 Walk No, 37. — From Bellevue Hill through the Reservation ... 311 VI CONTENTS. Milton 318-332 Walk No. 38. — From Milton Lower Mills, through Milton Centre, to Mattapan : Milton Hill ; the old buryiug-ground : grave of Wendell Phillips ; Academy Hill ; " Mil- ton Churches ; " old roads and lanes 318 Walk No. 39. — From Mattapan over Brush Hill, across to Canton Avenue, and back to Milton Lower Mills ; Cross- man's Lane 331 The Blue Hills 333-356 Walk No. 40. — From the Blue Hill Entrance, over the southern part of the western section, to Randolph turnpike : embraces Great Blue, Wolcott, Houghton, Burnt, or Tucker hills 334 Walk No. 41, — From the Blue Hill Entrance, over the northern part of the western section, to Randolph turn- pike : embraces the Great Blue, Wolcott, Hem- enway, Hancock, Tucker, Boyce, and Buck hills . 344 Walk No. 42. — From the West Quincy Entrance, over the northern part of the eastern section, to Randolph turnpike : embraces Rattlesnake, Wampatuck, Fox, the Broken, Nohanton, Kitchamakin, and Chicka- tawbut hills 350 Walk No. 43. — From Randolph turnpike, over the southern part of the eastern section, to West Street, Braintree, near Braintree Great Pond : embraces Hawk Hill, Braintree Pass, Southeast Ridge, or Faxon's Hill . 354 Dedham 357-368 Walk No. 44. — In Dedham village and outskirts : the Great Bend of the Charles ; Purgatory Swamp ; Fox Hill in Westwood 357 Quincy 369-382 Walk No. 45. — In and about Quincy Centre : the Stone Temple and tombs of the Presidents ; historic Adams and Quincy homesteads ; " Merry Mount " and Merry- mount Park 370 Walk No. 46. — To Squantum Head and return 379 RoxBURY, Dorchester, South Boston 383-397 Walk No. 47. — In Roxbury, finishing at Franklin Park .... 383 Walk No. 48. — From Dorchester to the Marine Park, South Bos- ton Point : Meeting-house Hill ; Savin Hill ; Up- ham's Corner and the old burying-ground ; Five Corners and the birthplace of Edward Everett . 389 THE BOSTON BASIN. In one of his felicitous addresses to the entering freshman class, President Eliot, of Harvard University, characterized the country round about Boston as the most interesting historical region in the United States, and one of the most beautiful he had ever seen here or in Europe ; and he strongly advised his auditors " to learn the whole region by heart." In tliis was but echoed the sentiment expressed by countless visitoi-s who have spread the fame of this region far and wide. Within a radius of twelve miles from the State House, easily accessible, are many of the most notable landmarks and monuments of the Colonial, Provincial, and Revolutionary periods, and a territory spreading back from the shores of Boston bay, while thickly settled, yet still of remarkably diversified land- scape, enriched by lofty hills, broad sweeps of valley, masses of woodland, picturesque rivers, ponds, and brooks. This region lies mostly within what the geologists have called the Boston Basin, bounded by the bay on the east, the chain of mountainous Blue Hills lying in Milton, Quincy, and Canton, on the south, and the ridges of the Wellington Hills extending in irregular lines from Waltliam toward Cape Ann on the north : a country of about fifteen miles in width, popularly known as Greater Boston, although in fact embracing twenty-two independ- ent municipalities. In the larger area included in the Metropoli- tan Parks District, established by the State, is a commuiiity almost as closely knit, comprising twelve cities and twenty-four towns, the greater number of which are within the suburban systems of the railways terminating in Boston, and are brought into close connec- tion by a network of electric lines. Between the bounds of this district, all within the twelve miles radius from the State House, are Boston Bay and its seventy-five islands ; stretches of the finest beaches on the coast ; the boundary rock-hills of Boston Basin ; the great Blue Hills Forest ; the Stony Brook Woods in the midst of a populous quarter ; the lovely chain of public parkways and parks instituted by the city of Boston ; the celebrated Waverly Oaks, the most ancient group of oak-trees in New England, and Beaver Brook, of which Lowell has sung ; the rich preserve of the Middlesex Fells ; the wild Lynn Woods, one of the largest public domains belonging to any city in the United States ; the basins of the Mystic, Charles, and Neponset rivers, and other localities famous beyond the limits of 2 THE BOSTON BASIN. Boston, Of this territory nearly 9000 acres (6671 in the Metro- politan Parks and 2162 in the Boston Parks system) are now reserved by law and maintained for free public use and enjoyment. The boundary of the Boston Basin, using that term in its geo- logic rather than its topographic or hydrographic sense, as indicated by Pi'ofessor William O. Crosby, is marked on the map below by the heavy black line. THE BOSTON BASIN. 3 The physical and historical geography of the Boston Basin has been best outlined in the report of Mr. Charles Eliot, as landscape architect for the preliminary Metropolitan Parks Commission of 1892-93, from which developed the permanent commission em- powered to establish and maintain pubhc open-space reservations Avithin the Metropolitan District. Briefly summarized, its features are as follows. Underlying the whole region are the rocks of the crust of the earth, the oldest and hardest of them rising in the two conspicuous though broken ridges marking the northern and southern boundaries of the basin. The northern mass, or the so-called Wellington Hills, broken in many places by deep transverse valleys, such as those of the Mystic, Maiden, and Saugus rivers, generally presents to the south a steep warlike front, about one himdred feet in elevation. In its eastern exten- sion the highland surface is exceedingly rough, with rocky knobs and narrow hollows, now and then rising into exceptionally high summits, such as Bear Hill (325 feet) in the Stoneham section of the Middlesex Fells, and Burrill's Hill (2S.j feet) in the Lyim Woods. The southei*n rock-mass, or the Blue Hills, differing from the northern mass, is carved into a dozen rounded and partially separated hills, steepest on their south sides, and varying in eleva- tion above the sea from three hundred to more than six hundred feet, being the highest hills standing thus near the coast of the continent from Maine to Mexico. Between the Wellington Hills and the Blue Hills, " much worn stumps or roots of ancient mountains," Mr. Eliot calls them, "lies a region some fifteen miles wide, in which the primitive rocks which form these mountain stumps have been depressed so far, and the secondary rocks which lie upon the primitive rocks have been worn doAvn so deep, that the sea has flowed over both and formed Boston Bay." But the waters of the bay wash against shores of rock only at a few points, the most conspicuous being the ocean fronts of Swampscott and Cohasset, Nahaut, the outer harbor islands, and Squantum, in Quincy. Such rocks as appear above the surface within the Boston Basin are of mixed kinds, among them slates and the conglomerate or pudding-stone ; but generally throughout this depressed region there is no solid rock in sight. Another material forms ahnost all the seashore, the river banks, and the dry land of the space between the massive uplifts of the basin boundaries. This material is composed of an enormous quantity of clay, gravel, and stones of all sizes and kinds, stufF which the moving ice-sheets of successive glacial periods bore away from northern regions and dumped in various sorts of heaps alike upon the uplifted and depressed parts of the rock foiindation 4 THE BOSTON BASIN. of the district. The largest of these heaps still standing, great rounded hills of symmetrical form, called by the geologists drum- lins, are most conspicuous objects in its scenery. Lesser heaps take on the form of steep mounds and long ridges, often inclosing bowl-like hollows. Then there are large areas in which the glacial material has been so worked over by running waters as to produce nearly level plains almost free from boulders of large size. The rivers and streams of the region, turned and twisted by the accu- mulation of glacial stiiff , follow few sharply defined valleys, but wander along in an apparently aimless manner, contributing much to the beauty of the landscape. In the higliland parts rain-watei-s caught in rock-rimmed hollows,. or in basins formed by dams of glacial drift, make, even at the height of two hundi-ed feet above the sea, frequent ponds, or swamps ; while along the courses of the brooks and rivei's similar morasses appear at frequent inter- vals. "However it may be with respect to healthfulness," Mr. Eliot observes, " with respect to scenery these retardations of the waters in ponds and swamps are a very valuable and charming addition to landscape already wonderfully varied and pictur- esque." Between the ocean rocks of Marblehead, at the north, and Cohasset at the south, which guard the broad entrance to Boston bay, the salt waters sweep with an unbroken surface. Presently they meet various obstructions upon which are the marks of their destructive or constructive energy. The exposed rock peninsula of Nahant, on the northern side of the entrance, has been gnawed by the surf until its coast has become ragged and picturesque in the extreme ; but in return the sea has formed out of the waste of the land a beautiful beach-causeway connecting the island with the main at Lynn. Slightly further inland the waters meet the foremost of the great hills of clay and stones which the ice age left. Grover's Cliff and Great Head in Winthrop, Great Brewster, Point AUerton and Strawberry Hill, in Hull, still stand boldly in the front against the sea, although now but fragments of the originally symmetrical masses ; and from the feet of their steep bluffs long curving beaches " stretch away to unite themselves with the next adjacent movmds of hills, or else to join in never-ending conflict with some strong tidal current as at Shirley and Hull Guts." Once inside Point Shirley and Point Pemberton the waters play around numerous other drumlins, "here cutting a steep bluff out of the side or end of one of them, here, by building beaches, linking two or three together to form an island or a stretch of coast, or here again reaching far inland between the hills to receive the fresh waters of brooks or rivers." Behind the beaches and in THE BOSTON BASIN. 5 all the stillest parts of the tidal regions are widespread levels of salt marsh, in which the tidal currents are ahle to keep open only a few sinuous channels. On the north the marshes and the salt creeks extend to the very foot of the rock highlands. Westward the salt water of Charles River reaches inland six miles from the State House. On the south the estuaries and marshes of the Neponset and of Weymouth Fore and Back rivers present beautiful pictures of mingled land and water. From ahnost any of the rock- hills or inland drumlins of the district, looking eastward on a clear day, the horizon of the sea is seen. The English colonists of the seventeenth century, coming into this region of "marvellously commingled waters, marshes, gravel banks and rocks," first settled about the steep drumlin hills of Shawmut, at that time surrounded and even divided by the tides, on the most accessible of the few smooth parts of the neighbor- hood, and wherever a navigable river or creek swept past a gentle slope of the glacial drift. From such settlements grew Boston (1G30) and towns now embraced withui its corporate Hmits, Lynn (1637), Medford (1630), Cambridge (1633), Watertown (1630), Ded- ham (1636), and the other elder townships of the colony. "The creeks were the first roads and the marshes the first hayfields.*' As the population increased, "men were forced to take up axe and crowbar in grim earnest. The great hills of boulder clay had to be made cultivable ; generation after generation labored with the trees and stones, and at last the rounded hills stood forth as mounds of green, marked and divided by walls of field stones, and sometimes crowned . . . with the white churches of the vic- tors. After two hundred years of these arduous labors, the neigh- borhood of Boston was a lovely land. The broad and narrow marshes still lay open to the sun and air, through them the salt creeks wound inland twice a day, about them lay fields and pas- tures backed by woods upon the steeper slopes, and across their sunny levels looked the windows of many scattered houses and many separate villages." [Charles Eliot.] The first streets and country roads followed very crooked courses because of the peculiar intricacy of the configuration, and when a city began to grow within the central parts of the Basin, long bridges and causewaj'S were thrust out across the flats in various directions, and turnpike roads were carried far inland. Then the flats along the causeways and in the coves and marshes were filled from gravel taken from the near hills, or brought, in later days, by railroad from more distant ones, and thickly built upon. Thus the original pear-shaped peninsula of early Boston has been ex- panded from seven hundred and eighty-three acres, cut into by 6 THE BOSTON BASIN. estuaries, coves, and bays, to eighteen hundred and twenty-nine acres of solid land ; and similar expansions have been made on the water-fronts of its annexed territory. Of the original drum- lins here and in various parts of the Basin, some have been wholly dug away, others have great holes cut out of them, and yet others are surfaced with streets at steep grade, and faced thick with houses. Occupying this broad and deep basin is now what appears to be one great city and connecting suburbs, with no external characteristics to mark the ending of one and the beginning of another, containing altogether nearly forty per cent of the entire population of Massachusetts, and steadily and rapidly increasing in the number of its buildings and inhabitants. Although much of the natural beauty of the region has been destroyed by man, and some of the fairest portions are scarred by ugly building, examples of the most depressing mercantile and domestic architecture, it yet remains, if not as Captain John Smith described it before the advent of the European settler, "the paradise of all these parts," the most charming region surround- ing any modern city. While, happily, the most beautiful sections of the boundary rock-hills, rich wooded parts, and stretches of the river banks and seashores, are now reserved as public open spaces, and broad " boulevards " are cut through connecting municipal- ities, touching metropolitan and local park systems, every city and town of the district has in itself much of picturesqueness and interest. Beautiful rides in every direction abound, and no loveUer or more varied walks are anywhere to be fovind. Much that is old is mingled with the new, country roads touch modern thoroughfares, and rural by-ways lead from the beaten paths directly to rural parts. Within the limits of the metropolis itself mayflowers (the trailing arbutus) are to be gathered in their season, and rich flora is to be found. To enable the dwellers in and around Boston, as well as the visitor from distant parts, "to learn this whole region by heart," is the object of this little book. And in order that it may be learned in the most enjoyable as well as most healthful fashion, we have arranged a series of walks covering every portion of the dis- trict, and in one direction extending beyond it in order to take in historic Lexington and Concord. Adopting Dr. Holmes's happy conceit — now classic — of " Boston State House "as " the hub of the solar system," we have treated the surrounding parts as its spokes, and in that manner our explorations proceed. We shall visit every historic spot, landmark, and monument, and familiarize ourselves also with the history of this entire region. m \ Fold-ou PlacehoU This foid-out is being digitized, and \ future date. RO ^ itsif" Wmtnropng , Beachmont, and Revere Beacli. Boston to Wint' '^^^iirop Centre, by steam car (Boston, Revere Beach, and lij-nn) 4.7 miles ; /ge >by boat to the pier at the foot of Perkins Street, 5 miles. f-AXQ, by either ^ vvay, 15 cents. j Boston *^" 4,0 Crescent Beach, by steam car (Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn), ■»5 ra'^ .les ; fare, 15 cents. By electric car (Boston and Lynn, from ScoUay square), 6 miles ; fare, 5 cents. To Beachmont, steam car, 5 miles ; fare, 12 "lents. Walk a [No. 1]. Ai'ound and about Winthrop. Walk b [No. 2]. Over Beachmont, Crescent Beach, and along the length of Revere Beach to the Point of Pines and Saugus River. Return by way of , the beach branch of the Boston and Lynn electric railway. Winthrop was the ancient Pullen Poynt, or Pulling Point, of early Boston. In 1739 it was set off with Rumney Marsh and Winnisimmet to form the town of Chelsea, and remained a part of Chelsea till 1846, when it was taken with Rumney Marsh for the town of North Chelsea (now Revere). It was made a separate town in 1852. Its name was adopted in honor of Deane Winthrop, sixth son of Governor John Winthrop, who lived here many years and here died in 1703-4. It was called Pullen Poynt by the first settlers, "because the boats are by the seasing or roads haled against the tide which is very strong." [JosseljTi.] In 1753 it was rechristened Point Shirley, in honor of Governor Shirley, by a party of local speculators, — a syndicate we would say in these days, — who that year established a codfishery station here and " inaugurated " their enterprise with a joyous junket, at which the governor and other Boston worthies were guests. On the sail down and ' iack the party were saluted with a discharge of guns from " The Castle " on Jastle Island ; the governor was received at the Point " with all the demon- strations of joy that so new a settlement was capable of." [Boston News Letter, Sept. 13, 1753.] There was an "elegant entertainment," much buoyant speech-making, and the formal re-naming of the place with his excellency's hearty approbation. But the enterprise was a dismal failure. Instead of first erecting the workshops and dwellings for their workmen, "they put up houses for their own pleasure accommodation, and a meeting- house for a preacher on Sundays, wholly neglectful of the operatives who were to have carried on the business for them." [Shurtleff.] So the place became a genteel summer resort, some of the "best families of Boston," among them the Hancocks, having their country seats on or near the Point, which still bears the name of Shirley. In more modern days it was made famous by Taft's Point Shirley House, an inn widely renowned for its rich larder and incomparable fish and game dinners ; a favorite resort for gour- mets, between 1850-85. Winthrop remained a rural town by the sea, with a few comfortable mansion-houses, scattered farmhouses and modest cot- tages, till 1875, when, with the opening of the narrow-gauge railroad, it quickly developed into a miniature watering-place, and colonies of " villas" sprang up like mushrooms in a night. Within its limits of less than a thou- sand acres are now thickly settled villages, w4th a loop railroad from the main stem, running frequent trains touching each one of them. It has eight miles of beach. Revere Beach, originally within the limits of Chelsea, and then known as Chelsea Beach, was given its present name when the town of North Chelsea became Revere in 1871. It extends from the bluff called Beachmont, in Revere, adjoining Winthrop, to the Point of Pines by the Saugus River, a distance of about three miles. Walk a. To " do " Winthrop and Revere Beach in the quickest and most complete fashion, the narrow-gauge railway trip, rather than that by the steamer to the harbor side of Great Head, should 8 WINTHROP, BEACHUONT, Rt,^.^^^ ^^^^„ be chosen. Of course the former alone is avai ., , , . ,, n of November in each year, but during the sumni 1^ . f fort, eoohiess, and tlie most picturesque first vie\, ®^ "^ w IV ^°^ desired, the trip by one of the cosy little steamers ''' , Wmthrop b "voyage" from Atlantic Avenue through the na. , channel east of Fort Winthrop and Apple Island, up tuTJ'T " of Crystal Bay, at the very foot of Great Head, should have\!!*^f preference. By the last named route, one gets charming glimpse of the shore aU the way along, from the elevators, docks, anc shipyards of East Boston, the lofty bluff on Breed's Island, no^^ caUed "Orient Heights," and the lush meadows and sluggish' tide- way of Belle Isle Inlet, to the very tip of the peninsula. Point Shirley, which is left on the right as the steamer rounds up into the bay, after having successively passed in review Court, Cottage, Bartlett, and Woodside parks, the aUuring shades of Sunnyside and the handsome dwellings of Washington Avenue. The railway will take us by its loop line into and around the heart of the town, or along the beach, according as we take the train via the '^Cen- tre " or that via the " Highlands." ^ The railway proper starts from East Boston, with which connec- tion is made from the Atlantic Avenue Station by ferry, crosses the marshes and flats on the easterly edge of the island, passing Wood Island Park (of the Boston system of public parks) on the harbor front, continues well out to the harbor line to Orient Heights (formerly called Winthrop Junction), thence across Breed's Island, leaving the heights from which the station takes its name, (the former Breed's Hill) on the left, and along the base of the uplands of Beachmont in Revere, to the crest of Revere Beach, which it follows to the end. The Winthrop loop line branches off at the junction station, and in its circuit of 5.3 miles makes ten stops, the stations being only about one-half mile apart. If we go down by cars and leave the train at Battery station on the loop line, we may first do the most modern and the most ancient features of Winthrop, — the Winthrop Battery, con- structed by the National government, and the Deane Winthrop house, dating from the seventeenth century. The fortification is a part of the elaborate and costly system of minor harbor and city defences now building, and is to be operated in connection with works on Grover's Cliflf, the bold headland a mile* or so to the north projecting into the bay. In outward appearance it is a steep \ grassy slope rising to the height of forty feet and fashioned with such precision that it cannot be mistaken for a work of nature. I But it has little the look of a fortification as approached from the roadway, and no idea of the magnitude of the work can be gained , WINTHROP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. 9 from the outside. It is a masked battery of powerful armament commanding the entrance to Boston Bay. The work under con- struction on Grover's Cliff is a strong battery of three monster long-range guns. The Winthrop Battery has four nests of batteries in long, broad pits, each nest containing four twelve-inch breech-loading mortars, sixteen in all, each one able with a full charge of eighty pounds of powder to drop a shell weighing six hundred pounds upon a ship's deck six miles away. These mortars average about fourteen tons each, and are mounted on carriages resting on fifteen-ton roller-paths havmg teeth which represent the fuU circle of 3G0°. They are turned by a vertical spindle working in the rack inside. The recoil is taken by two cylinders in each " cheek " of the carriage, one of which contains twelve springs and is ten feet long, the other, five feet in length, is partly filled with oil which escapes through small openings as the piston takes up the slack given down the springs. The lowest elevation for firing purposes is 40^ and the highest 80^, with 45^ as the maximum range. Winthrop Battery. In time of action the battery is worked by charts, upon which the entrance to the harbor is divided into squares, under the direction of the commanding ofiicer standing at Grover's Cliff, from which the situation and movement of a liostile ship or fleet are telegraphed, telephoned, or flagged, and the guns trained accordingly. The interior works embrace magazines for loaded shells and for explosives to be loaded into shells, various store-rooms, quarters for the officers commanding the batteries, rooms for plotting the path and reach of the projectiles, and other apartments. The old "Winthrop homestead is on Shirley Street (the road to Point Shirley) just off from Revere Street (the highway to Revere), but a stone's throw from the Batterj", which faces Revere Street. The age of the structure is its chief attraction. We see a very plain, two-story, pitch-roofed dwelling, in outline a tyi^e of the conventional early New England farm-house. Its front has been modernized by the substitution of clapboards for the shingles that once covered it, and the insertion of large-paned windows, but the back retains much of the ancient look. Originally it was without the leanto, and contained four large square rooms, with a spacious 10 WINTlIROr, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. attic. Just how old tliis lioiise is is not cletiiiitely known. In the "Book of Possessions'' Deane Winthrop is recorded as owning- in 1(345 one farm at Pnlleu Point embracing one hundred and twenty acres, and it is believed that he was at that time occupying it. According to iSewall's Diary he "lived there [at Pullen Point] in his father's day," but Sewall adds that "in his father's time his house stood more toward Deer Island.'' This, therefore, was the second Deane Winthrop homestead. In 1040 — the year of Gov- ernor Winthrop's death — he acqxiired the farm of Bridget and William Pierce, embracing one hundred acres, and from this cir- cumstance, perhaps, the authorities have generally fixed upt)n that year, or "before 1(350," as the date of the house. It bears The Deane Winthrop House. ■-FT^' its years Avell. The strength of the frame appears more clearly on the inside than on the outside, in the heavy oak beams crossing the ceiling. It was in 1(590 that bewail was a guest at the house, and wrote about it in the Diary. He went down to the Point with Mr. Willard (then minister of the Old South Church in Boston), evi- dently to a wedding party in the old farndiouse. " Between 1 and 2," he writes, " Mr. Willard married Atherton Hough and Mercy Winthrop. . . . Between 3 and 4 Major General Nathaniel ITiggin- son and Mr. Adam Winthrop came and many with them, when we had almost dined. Sang a Psalm together." At this time Deane Winthrop was seventy-seven years old. Of his death, four years later, on March 1(5, 170;>-04, Sewall makes this note : "Mr. Deane Winthrop, of Pullen Point, dies upon his birthday just about the Breaking of it. He was taken at eight o'clock the WINTHROP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. 11 evening- before, as he sat in his chair . . . Hardly spoke anything after heinj? in Bed. Eifi:hty-one years ohl. He is tlie last of Gov- ernor Wintln'()i)'s cliildren. Statione novissimus exit.'''' He was buried on the 2()th " by his son and three dauf^hters . . . from tlie house of Hasey." There were "Scutcheons on the Pall." Sewall was one of the bearers, and " helped to lower the Corpse. Madam Pai^e went to her Coach. Majr. Genl. and Cai)t. Adam Winthroi) had Scarvs and led the Widow. Very pleasant day." Deane Winthrop was a son of the governor's third wife, and was born in England in 1G23. He was brought to Boston in 1035, then a lad of twelve. When a young man he went to the settlement wliicli became Groton in 1()55, named after the old P3nglisli home of the Winthrops, and is called the founder of that town. His life of forty or more years at " Pulling Point " seems to have been very quiet and prosaic. He was one of the earliest of local " ship- news reporters," for Sewall records that when he was living toward Deer Island he " was wont to set up a Bush when he saw a ship coming in." The old house remained in the possession of Winthrop's de- scendants until after tlu; opening- of the present century : then it passed to the Floyd family which has since held it. The present owner, Henry Otis Floyd, has lived here for many years. It is a short walk from the Deane Winthrop house, by way of Revere Street and across the bridge over the railroad by Highland '••" -c-s^^^ :^?^ "-i Jl^rSiS??-*?;^' Winthrop Highlands. station to the high bluff of which Grover's Cliff is the eastern terminus, and which is appropriately named "Winthrop High- lands. This is the extreme northerly end of the town, and ascending the steep slope we are rewarded by one of the best of the views from Wiuthro]) bluff-tops — picturesque Nahant at the north-east ; following round to the north and west, the city of Lynn, Maiden, Melrose, and the Fells beyond, the near-by Revere 12 WINTER OP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. and Chelsea ; at the extreme west, Boston and its outljdng dis- tricts ; at the south the harbor, and at the east the ocean. Back to Highland station, it might be "well to take the train, and ride to Ocean Spray station, from which short streets lead directly to Winthrop Beach. Here on the crest o£ the beach is a broad driveway extending from Grover's Cliff to Great Head, thickly lined with summer cottages facing the sea. It is a beauti- ful beach, and the crest drive is the favorite one of Winthrop folk. On pleasant summer afternoons, especially on Sundays, it is gay with pleasure-teams. The road is well made and well kept, and is protected from the encroachments of the sea by substantial breakwaters. After a summer storm, when a glorious surf pounds the beach, this drive is at its best. The Massachusetts Legisla- ture, session of 189G, embodied in the appropriation for the Met- ropolitan Parks system a considerable sum for the construction of a sixty-foot boulevard along this crest drive, which is to be accom- plished partly by taking land from in front of the houses and partly by building a sea-wall outside the present "bulkheads " and filling out to it. Preliminary surveys have been made and tentative lines established, and it is probable that the autumn of 1896 wUl see a beginniiig, at least, made upon the work itself. Its comjiletion is expected to add much to the attractiveness of the drive, and incidentally to the value of property fronting on the Crest. Great Head looms up majestically at the south end of the Crest, overlooking the long sandy spit which curves away slightly to the westward of south and is known as "Short Beach." This terminates in the bold hillock and flat, sandy plain at its base, famous in history and local annals as Point Shirley. Upon the sides and summit of Great Head are some of the more ambitious of Winthrop summer residences. At the western foot of the bluff, on Crystal Bay, are the house and pier of the Winthrop Yacht Club, off which are moored many dainty yachts during the summer months. A broad road passes over the hill; and the houses along this way, and clinging to the rugged hill-sloi)es, com- mand far-spreading water views. By the local authorities the bluff has been renamed "Cottage Hill," but it is gratifying to observe that most of the residents ignore this absolutely charac- terless appellation and cling to the picturesque and most fitting name which the first settlers gave it. Over on Point Shirley there is now little of interest save perhaps a single old mansion- house, which is pointed out as the John Hancock shore place, set up perhaps about 1773, during the period when the Point flourished as a genteel summer resort. At that time the remainder of the WINTER OP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. 13 peninsula was mostly covered with forests broken by a few scat- tered farms. Taft's Point Shirley House [see historical note at the head of this chapter, p. 7] which in later times gave the point its widest fame, stood close to the swift waters of Shirley Gut. The faded suggestion of a long past gayety, together with the present desolation and remoteness of Point Shirley, give one a sense of picturesque loneliness not free from uncanny suggestions. From Great Head we shall find it a pleasant walk by Shirley Street northward to Washington Avenue, which soon opens at the left, thence to Pleasant Street near Thornton station, and by Pleasant Street along the south and west sides of the town. The town bridge by which Washington Avenue crosses Crystal Bay was during 1895 widened and filled solid (except a tide sluice- way) thus making it a causeway which confines the waters of the Shirley Gut. upper end of the bay and transforms this into a water park. Along the western or "town" shore is also a pleasant new ave- nue shaded with fine trees and lined with comfortable permanent dwellings. Continuing our walk, we shall keep close to or within sight of the water most of the way, and pass through or near a number of the many districts, or "resorts," into which the little town is now divided. Very few of the old farm and mansion houses which constituted the Winthrop invaded by the railroad in the seventies now remain, but the names of some of the older estates are perpetuated in the resorts built upon or near them. Thus we have " Thornton's " for the late J. Wiugate Thornton, the genealogist and historical writer, whose comfortable old house still stands, though shorn of its generous grounds ; " Bartlett Park " for the Charles L. Bartlett estate, in its day one of the largest and stateliest on the peninsula, now cut uj) by " avenues " — partly parcelled out into lots for "colonial villas" and partly 14 WINTHROP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. incorporated with the adjoining Cottage Park property — and the fine old mansion-house which was the birthplace and later the home of the gallant General William F. Bartlett, transmuted into a huge, showy and flamboyant summer hotel ; " Court Park " for Judge John Lowell, and George B. Loring, whose estates were on the high grounds on the southwest corner of the place, with a fair outlook over the water ; and *' Ingall's " for Dr. Samuel In- galls, who was one of the pioneers in the development of Winthrop into a modern summer place, and one of the most earnest pro- moters of the extension of the narrow-gauge system over it. The latter lost his life by the railroad soon after the little old saddle- back locomotive began to draw the trains of toy cars originally run upon the Winthrop branch. "Winthrop Centre, where the town hall, the main school-house, the post office, churches, and the Masonic Hall are clustered, is at the right of Pleasant Street, not far beyond Thornton's. Sunny Side is near the Bartlett estate, with a pretty still-water beach. It was for a number of years the summer home of the famous Vokes family, and of other colonies of actors who have occasion- ally settled on this side of the town. The harbor view from this point, with its diminutive Snake Island in the near foreground, and Apple Island just beyond, is extremely pleasing. At its northern end Pleasant Street crosses Main Street, close to the bridge over Belle Isle Inlet, the dividing Ime between Breed's Island (Orient Heights) within the jurisdiction of Boston, and Winthrop, and ends at the Pleasant Street station of the railway, the first and last stop on the circuit line. On the East Boston side of the bridge, this country road becomes Saratoga Street, and as such extends to Central Square, in the heart of "the Island Ward," as East Boston is often called. Having now made the circuit of the town we may take the train at Pleasant Street station, and returning to Orient Heights, thence make the short trip to Revere Beach, for our Walk b. It would be better, however, to defer this walk to another day, for it is four or five miles in length, and we have thus far covered as many miles on foot. Instead of journeying homeward by rail, we may, if %ve prefer, ride around from Pleasant Street station to Winthrop Beach station, and thence return by the steamboat, which lands at a new, handsome and commodious wharf right alongside. Walk b. Beginning at Beachmont, the second station beyond Orient Heights, on the main line of the Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn Railroad, twenty minutes ride from Atlantic Avenue. At the Beachmont station we come upon a symmetrical drumlin WINTHROP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. 15 rising forty or fifty feet, and affording fine water views. These views would be finer and fuller were the houses which tliickly cover the bluff set with better skill and taste ; but neither skill nor taste, probably, entered into the scheme of the development of this popular seaside dwelling-place, which was begun about the mid seventies by laud speculators aided and abetted by brass band and auctioneer, who auctioned off the territory in small lots with little or no restrictions upon builders. However, here and there between the houses some exquisite glimijses of the ocean are caught, and occasionally, through an opening, broad sweeps of the beach below, with the rocky outline of Nahant across Broad Sound, delight the eye. * Leaving the station at the foot of the hill our way lies along Atlantic Avenue, opposite the station, into Bellingham Street, just above, which opens at the right and curves around the Avest side up toward the summit. Following Bellingham Street to its end, then rounding the little park, and taking Bradstreet Street, at the right, which curves along the other side of the hill, we encircle the height, coming out near the station at the point at which we started. The walk is not a long one, — it is accomplished in an easy stroll of less than a half hour, — and it gives us all of the best of Beachmont and its views. The broadest views are had in the first half of the walk as we mount Bellingham Street, and at its end, from which Winthrop Point shows up pleasingly. Between the houses on the outer side of Bradstreet Street the eye courses toward the south over broad marshes to Winthrop Highlands and Orient Heights. The lower road, Atlantic Avenue, follows the base of the hill to Ocean Pier at the tip of Crescent Beacli, which makes out from Beachmont, and is in fact the southern finish of Revere Beach. Winthrop Avenue, by the station, is the highway between Winthrop and Revere, and the electric car line from Beachmont, through Revere and Chelsea, to Boston, passes over it. We can walk over from Beachmont, to the oi^ening of Kevere Beacli, but the road is not as yet an attractive one, and we shall find the ears pleasanter. Crescent Beach station, the first on the beach, is next beyond Beachmont, a ride of a few minvites. Here the raihoad originally took the crest of the beach, and in course of time was closely pressed by a hodge-podge of buildings, follow- ing the track its full length of three miles ; but now the rails are back of the sands, and crest and beach, cleared of all unsightly obstructions, are being transformed, by the Metropolitan Park Commissioners, into a public ocean park, with pronaenade and pleasTire-driveway. Already something of this work has been 16 WINTHROP, BEACHMONT, REVERE BEACH. accomplished iu the completion of the esplanade near the Crescent Beach station. It was a qneer colony which here flourished during the twenty years of the occupation of the crest by the railroad line. Up to the close of the season of 189G it was a place of low-hrowed, cheap, unlovely structures, in a crowded row on either side of the tracks, with narrow promenade, protected from them by wire fences. It was picturesque, if shabby, and, packed with its unconventional summer population, not uninteresting to the social philosopher. These structures were summer boarding-houses, "hotels" and shops for trade and barter, seaside refreshments, bathing-shanties of various sizes and grades, and photographic "saloons." Prices ruled at the lowest, and all its ways were democratic. " Full fish dinners " were to be had for fifty cents, and for a dollar one might revel in a banquet of chowder, fish, fried lobster, sliced cucum- bers, ice cream, cake and other fixings. The fee for bathing- suits for " ladies and gents " was temptingly low, and some houses offered extra large suits for stout people without extra charge. The beach "village" extended nearly a mile northward from Crescent Beach station, pretty effectually shutting the beach from view. But from that point onward the beachside was clear of it, and the beautiful shore with its sea outlook could, as now, be enjoyed at its fullest. Taking position below the crest, at a point about opposite the opening of Revere Street, and looking back, then beyond, we obtain an unbroken view of the magnificent curve of the strand from its southern boundary of Beachmont to the northern terminus at the Point of Pines, — one of the most graceful stretches of ocean beach on the Atlantic coast. From the Revere Street opening we have the shore highway running alongside of the shore railway ; and 'at the left of the highway are the freight tracks of the Maine Railroad, with broad expanse of inarsh beyond, over which are views of the lovely highlands in the distance. Oak Island, with its mass of trees, in the foreground, is a favorite resort for botanists. On the high- wayside is the electric car line from Crescent Beach to the Point of Pines ; and at Revere Street the branch of the Boston and Lynn electric ear line enters^' We avoid, of course, the highway, and keep to the beach. The Point of Pines at the northerly end is so called from the grove of rugged trees here, which in old times was a favorite family picnic place. For many years a pleasant hotel, with broad piazzas facing the sea, occupied the Point and was a rather choice resort, much patronized for its excellent shore din- ners, by pleasure-parties taking the beach drive. At length the pleasant hotel fell upon unprosperous days, and finally gave way WINTHROP, BEACH^fONT, REVERE BEACH. 17 to the more popular resort which developed into a many-featured summer shoAV place. The beach curves toward the Point, and the highway, crossing the railway, brings up abruptly to the gates of the grounds, through which there is no thoroughfare. At the right, however, a way opens to the beach, so that at low tide carriages may turn onto it. The forbidding sign "Danger! No persons allowed on the Mai-sh," conspicuously placed on the fence of the enclosure, here confronts us, but regardless of it we fol- low the beach beloAv the grounds and so reach the marsh, or the Saugus River shore, beyond, unmolested, for this is now within the public reservation. It is contemplated to build a bridge from this point to Lynn, bringing the reservation into direct connection with that city and the country adjacent. If it is desired here to end the walk and return to Boston by the narrow-gauge railway, the Point of Pines private grounds must be entered, and passed through to the station. But by fin- ishing at this point much will be missed, notably the beach and ocean views in the southerly direction. So we retrace our steps, strolling back over the sands to Revere Street, and there take the electric car, which carries us through the town of Revere, Chelsea, and the Charlestown District to Scollay Square, for a five cent fare. The way starts through pleasant parts and passes by the most picturesque of the Revere hills. East Boston and Chelsea. City proper to East Boston, by North Ferry, foot of Battery Street, or South Ferry, Eastern Avenue ; fare, 1 cent ; by Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn Railroad ferry, Atlantic Avenue, fare, 3 cents. Boston to Chelsea, by ferry, foot of Hanover Street, fare, 3 cents; by electric car, from Scollay Square, by way of Charlestown or East Boston ; fare, 5 cents. By steam car, Boston and Maine Railroad, W. Div., 5 miles, fare, 10 cents. Walk a [No. 3]. Round about Boston North End to the South Ferry. Along the harbor side of East Boston, over Camp Hill ; by the long foot- bridge to Wood Island Park approaches ; about the park ; along the Parkway toward Eagle Hill ; over to Winthrop Junction and Breed's Island ; by Belle Isle to Beachmont. Walk b [No. 4]. [From Beachmont to Chelsea by electric car ; or from Boston to Chelsea by electric car, or steam car B. & M., W. Div.] Over Powderhorn Hill and Mount Washington ; back along Washington Avenue ; about the Naval Hospital grounds and the site of Samuel Maverick's first house where Wintlu-op was entertained upon his coming in 1630 ; across to the ferry to Boston. East Boston was first called by the colonists Noddle's Island, from one William Noddle, an "honest man of Salem," according to Wiuthrop's " Jour- nal," settled here about 1629. He may have been one of the colonists sent out by Sir William Brereton, who obtained a grant of this and its neighbor, Breed's Island, from John Gorges, in 1628, but failed to secure a confirmation of his claim. In early papers it is sometimes referred to as Brereton's Island ; and efforts were made to fix the name of Brereton's daughter Susanna to the other island. But the latter came instead to be called "Hog Island," which homely appellation clung to it for some time after it was officially known as Breed's Island, from the Breed family which occupied it as a farm from about 1800 to 1870. One of the earlier owners was Judge Samuel Sewall, who in 1687 took possession of it by the ancient formality of "turf and twig." Noddle's Island was granted to Samuel Maverick, gent., in April, 1633, who, erecting a fortified house, occupied it for about twenty-five years, dispensing a generous hospitality to his Puritan neighbors, though himself a Church of England man, and not always at peace with them. From him the island was for a long period called Maverick's. In 1637 it was " layd to Boston," but it remained a rich island farm for two centuries. It became East Boston in 1833, when it was bought by a local land company, —the East Boston Com- pany, —and its upbuilding begun. It was the scene of the "Fight on Nod- dle's Island," one of the early skirmishes of the Revolution. In the days of wooden ships it was a place of great ship-yards, and between 1848-58 more than 170 vessels were built here, 99 exceeding 1000 tons each, and 9 above 2000 tons each. Among them were famous clipper-ships for the California service, and the " Great Republic," the largest wooden sailing-ship ever built, a three-decker, with four masts, of 4556 tons. East Boston is con- nected with Chelsea by two bridges across Chelsea Creek. Chelsea, inchiding Revere and Winthrop (severally called by the colonists Winnisimmet, Rumney Marsh, and Pulling Point) was made a part of Boston in 1634, by order of the General Court, that " Wynetsem' shall belonge to Boston." These precincts, in 1739, were set off from Boston as the town of Chelsea. In 1846 the present towns of Revere and Winthrop were set off from Chelsea as North Chelsea, Winthrop was set off from North Chelsea in 1852, and in 1871 North Chelsea became Revere. Chelsea became a city in 1857. Until 1835, beside the present United States Naval and Marine Hos- pital grounds, it consisted of four great farms, with their farm-houses, and a few others beside those connected with the ferry or the hospital. Winnisim- met was occupied by settlers before the coming of the Puritans, but who the earliest settlers were is not now known, with the single exception of EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 19 Samuel Maverick, afterward of East Boston. Maverick had a fortified house which stood on the present Naval Hospital grounds, and was the first per- manent house in the Massaclmsetts Bay Colony. In 1634 Maverick and one John Blackleach, then owners of Winuisimmet, sold the whole of it (except that part now owned by the United States, and occupied by the hospitals) to Richard Bellinghaiu, afterward deputy governor and later governor of the colony. In 1638 allotments for farms were made in the Rumney Marsh, part to a number of tlie Massachusetts Company, among them Sir Harry Vane, who had not then arrived in the country. Governor Winthrop, William Hutcli- inson, Edmund Quincy, and Captain Robert Keayne, the latter in his day the wealthiest of the Pilgrim colonists, first commander of the first military com- pany, of which the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company was an out- growth, the father of the first town-house in Boston, and the maker of "the longest will ever filed in Massachusetts." The ferry between Boston and Chelsea, touching at Charlestown, set up in 1631, was the first ferry in New England. The development of Chelsea from a place of farms to a fiourishiug town was, like that of East Boston, the enterprise of a land company, known as the Winuisimmet Company. Walk a. We take the ferry to East Boston at the North End. The street-car passing through Hanover Street will carry us direct to the North Feriy, which is the further north, and within a few blocks of the South Ferry. It will be more agreeable, however, to walk, for thus we may see more of the historic North End. Although many of the once numerous landmarks of early Boston, ■which held their places here long after the rest of the old town had been repeatedly made over, are now gone, there remains enough to make this jiart still unique. We will not attempt its thorough exploration, but simply touch here and there its most interesting features in a rovmdabout way to the Ferry. Let our start be at the Old State House, at the head of State Street. Crossing to the left side the site of the " Boston Massa- cre" of 1770 (which the city has attempted to mark by the circle of oddly set stones in the paving near the corner of Exchange Place), we take Change Alley, the narrow foot-way opening be- tween buildings next below Exchange Place, and reach Faneuil Hall. Change Alley used to be a place of quaint shops and oddi- ties, after the fashion of queer London by-ways, but of late years it has been modernized and its picturesqueness destroyed. Near the end a side " avenue " once opened to Corn Court, in which still stands the battered shell of the old Hancock Tavern, for- merly the Brasier Inn, at which Talleyrand and Louis Philippe stopped a short time while in Boston in 1795. This is quite near the site of the first tavern in Boston, — Samuel Cole's " ordinaire," opened in 1634. There is yet a narrow passage-way here, but it is a noisome place, and the better entrance to the court is around from Faneuil Hall Square. At the left of Faneuil Hall Square, entering from Change Alley, in the low wooden structure on the south corner of old Dock Square, is the remnant of the Sun Tavern, the oldest piece of seventeenth century inn now standing in 20 EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. town. Faneuil Hall is open to the public evei'y day but Saturday. From the north side of Faneuil Hall, rounding old Dock Square, we pass across to Union Street, and thence make Marshall's Lane (or Street, as the sign will have it), a short cut, at the right, into Hanover Street. In the ancient little yellow brick house on the corner, was once the fashionable dry-goods shop of Hopestill Capen, in which Benjamin Thompson, afterward Count Rumford (whose birthplace we shall see in Woburn) served an apprentice- ship as clerk, beginning when a lad of sixteen. Within Marshall's View of the Boston Stone. Lane we come upon the "Boston Stone, 1737," set in the wall of a building close to the walk, which was brought from Eng- land about 1700, and originally used as a paint-mill by a painter who had a shop here. The block of dilapidated buildings in Creek Lane, at the right, was built by John Hancock shortly after the peace. The larger house marking the corner was the dwelling and office of Ebenezer Hancock, brother of the governor, and deputy paymaster-general of the Continental Army during EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 21 the war, and, says Drake, its " lower floor has groaned beneath the weight of the French crowns sent us by his Most Chris- tian Majesty, our excellent ally, brought over by the fleet of D'Estaing." In the front of the building on the Hanover Street corner is preserved the coat of arms carved in wood, bearing date of 1701, which the painter who brought the Boston stone set up in front of his shop, giving that the name of the " Painter's Arms." This is presumed to represent the painter's guild of London. Crossing Hanover Street we next take Salem Street, and following that unsavory way through a cosmopolitan quarter, we shortly reach Christ Church, where the tablet says the lan- terns of Paul Revere were displayed on the evening before the Lexington-Concord affair, but others say not ; and the historic old Copp's Hill Burying Ground hard by. Li passing we note in neighboring streets a few examples of colonial building, but the best of this pattern have disappeared within the past few years. By side streets making our way to North Square, now the heart of the Italian quarter of Boston, we pass, by the southern exit, what is left of the house in which Paul Revere lived at the out- break of the Revolution. Bearing now toward the water front, by way of North and Fleet Streets, we reach our ferry, — the South Ferry at the end of Eastern Avenue, opening from Atlantic Avenue. On the East Boston side we land at Lewis Street, which leads directly into Maverick Square, one of the business centres of the island, the other being Central Square, further on. Our route lies along the harbor side, which is the historic part, as well as one of the pleasantest. Before the laying out of the island into streets and house-lots by the East Boston Company in the thirties, there were sightly hills here, interspersed with broad meadow and marshes, known respectively as Smith Hill, Camj) Hill, and Eagle Hill, or Upper Farms. Smith Hill lay nearest to the present South Ferry landing. Camp Hill was beyond, jutting into the harbor, and the Upper Farms at the north, toward Chelsea. On the slope of Smith Hill, before the Revolution, was the mansion- house of the tenant farmer, and on Camp Hill it is supposed Maverick's fort and house stood when the island was granted to him by the Puritan Court of Assistants, in 1633. Turning from Lewis Street into Marginal Street, we follow first the wharf lines. Crossing the railroad track we come to Clyde Street — well named — leading down to the Cunard wharf, which is a bustling place on steamer daj'^s. A short tramp beyond brings us to Cottage Street, at the left, the corner of which is marked by the attractively designed building of St. Mary's Home for Sailors, attached to the Episcopal City Mission. Proceeding 22 EAST BOSTON AND CIJELSEA. now lip Cottage Street we take the right turn into Webster Street, and so approach what was once the stateliest part of the island. The upper corner of Cottage and Webster Streets is the site of the first house built after the plotting of the island. The earlier mansion-house of the tenant farmer and the farm buildings stood a short walk in the opposite direction — near the corner of Sumner (the next beyond Webster Street) and Lewis Streets, toward Mav- erick Square. While the Williams family were the tenants for seventy years up to the purchase of the island by the land com- pany, it was a great place of resort by Boston worthies as guests of the family. Prior and up to the Revolution, " Mr. Williams vied with his predecessor, Maverick, in his hospitality ; his house was large, elegant and richly fur- nished for those times, his table was sumptuous, and his cellar well-stocked ; a hearty welcome was given to all. Judging from the daily accounts of the family, the boats were continually plying between Boston and the island, carrying to and fro throngs of visitors. ... As visitors entered the hall they saw the walls ornamented with twenty-four pictures in gilt frames ; a dozen black walimt chairs offered comfortable seats, two tea tables with a set of China upon each, and two mahogany dining tables, a mahogany tea- chest, and wine glasses, gave significant evidence of the good cheer within. Six daughters added no small attraction to the mansion ; a piano-forte, a rare instrument in this country at that time, stood in the parlor, and the young ladies entertained their friends with music and songs, and were not dependent upon the city for the pleasure of a social dance. Generals Put- nam, Knox and Lincoln visited there ; Judge William Tudor, also, who is called by one of the family ' Papa's particular friend ' ; the clergymen of Boston sat at his table ; and, if the expression could with propriety be used, the nobility of the vicinity frequented the hospitable mansion." [Sumner's East Boston.'] After the "Fight on Noddle's Island" in 1775, the fine mansion-house with other buildings was burned, and later, Washington gave Mr. Williams a building used as barracks by the troops at Cambridge, which was removed to the island and reconstructed over the ruins of the old ; this was occupied as the family mansion until the tenancy was relinquished and Noddle's Island became East Boston. It was removed in 1835. Continuing up pleasant, tree-lined Webster Street, we shortly come upon fair old houses. The first that arrests attention is the low, out-spreading wooden dwelling, on the right side, with pillared jnazza entirely surrounding it, and topped by a cupola. This was one of the earliest houses built in the development of East Boston, and in its prime was for many years the hospitable home of Albert Bowker, a public-spirited citizen of the island. A fcAV steps beyond, on the same side, the row of dignified brick houses set back from the street, with yards behind old-fashioned iron and granite fences, is a type of the Boston "swell-front," peculiar to the town for years, until, unhappily, it was driven out by the mixed domestic architecture which marks the Boston of to-day. Opposite, on the left side of the street, Belmont Square in part covers the site of the encampment of the British forces, previous to the expedition against Canada in 1711, which gave the name of Camp Hill to this elevation. EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 23 In 1776, after the evacuation of Boston, and when it was feared that the British warships, which for some time lay in the lower harbor, might make an attack, or that Howe's fleet would return, a fortress was built at this point for the protection of the town. The work was rapidly pushed, town and country folk uniting their efforts in it. " Both the clergy and laity volunteered their services," says Sumner, the historian of the island, "working with pickaxe and shovel and aiding until the work was finished, while the poorer classes were compensated for their labor." But no hostile move was made by the enemy, and the fortress, though fully equipped, was not brought into action. During the latter part of the War of 1812, when Boston was threatened, and the national government were neglecting coast defences, the place was again fortified. The works consisted of a main fort with a covered way to a water battery. The engineer was Loammi Baldwin, and the construction, like that of the fortress of 177G, was principally by volunteer labor of citizens of Boston and neigh- boring towns : detachments of local military companies, mercan- tile and mechanics' associations, and sometimes whole parishes headed by their pastors. One actor in the scene long afterward relates having seen the " venerable Dr. Lathrop, with the deacons and elders of his church, each shouldering his shovel, and doing yeoman's service in digging, shoveling, and carrying sods in hand- barrows." This fortress was named Fort Strong, from the gov- ernor, Caleb Strong, and its formal naming was the occasion of a dazzling military parade, of speeches, and much gun-firing. Like its predecessor, it was never used, and upon the close of the war it was dismantled and abandoned. It is possible that Maverick's Fortress, mounting "four murtherers," and inclosing his rude castle, was also set upon this height : and perhaps one or more of his immediate successors as owners or tenants of the island, — Sir Thomas Temple, sometime governor of Nova Scotia, afterward long a resident in Boston, whom Increase Mather called "as true a gentleman as ever set foot on American soil," Robert Temple, the latter's son, Sir John Temple, born on the island, who was the first consul-general of England to the United States after the peace in 1783, and Colonel Samuel Shrimpton, in his day one of the foremost and wealthiest of Bostonians, a judge of the superior court, member of the gov- ernor's council, and one of the leaders in the revolution against Andros in 1689, — had their dwellings or other buildings in this same locality. One of the finest of the earlier mansion-houses, however, that of Robert Temi^le, was at " ye farr end of ye farme," at the easterly point of Eagle Hill. 24 EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. This house was built about the year 174G, and has been described as a large mansion with brick walls, and handsomely terraced, containing " elegant rooms, suitable for tlie reception of persons of the first condition." Maverick kept a immber of slaves on his estate ; and in the inventory of Colonel Shrimpton's estate "fourteen negroes, old and young, £350," were included with stock, houses and other property on Noddle's Island. The island con- tinued in tlie possession of the Shrimpton family and its connections for more than one hundred and sixty years, until its purchase by the East Boston Company. Over Belmont Square we have a pleasant bit of water view, and at the I'ight, through the cross streets and occasional openings be- tween houses or blocks, broader harbor views. From the narrow way of Ruth Street, at the right, a walk and series of stone steps lead down to Marginal Street, at the foot of the height, and the East Boston station of the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Rail- road, — near by which, across the street, we may observe on a modest little shop the historic name of John Hancock given to trading in old naetal and junk. Following AVebster Street to the open space a short distance below Belmont Square, we turn sharply to the left and enter Sumner Street, which we are to follow back to Cottage Street. The way forward from this open space leads to JefFries's Point, and the yacht club house on the water's edge. The walk back along Sumner Street is not so pleasant as that through Webster Street, but it offers variety, and is soon over. At the point where the tunnel of the narrow gauge railroad passes beneath the road- way, — just before we come again to Belmont Square, — there are little views of interest to the right and left, the bare side of Breed's Hill, topped with its yellow water tower, showing up well at the right. At Cottage Street we take the right turn and shortly reach the end at Maverick Street. Crossing the latter, we now enter the long foot-bridge across the little bay which here makes into the marshes, in the direction of Wood Island Park, at the right, and Breed's Island beyond, toward the left. The bridge-walk, when the tide is in, is breezy and exhilarating. The bridge is for foot-passers only; the warning sign "bicycles not admitted" being conspicuous at either end. It is three quarters of a mile long, and if we keep our eyes turned toward the right side, we shall be cheered, as we walk, by varying water views over and be- yond the railroad. The view on the left side is uninteresting, its main features being a jumble of houses in the distance. At the end of the bridge we take the right turn, and so reach the main way leading up toward Wood Island Park, jutting out into the water at the right. The tour of the park will occupy but a few minutes, if we do not care to have a turn at the gymnasiums, for EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA, 25 beyond these it is but little develoj)ed. as yet. After doing* the park we take the broad park-waj% or the boulevard, as the local residents like to call it, and stroll along in the direction of the jumble of houses until we reach the present end at Bennington Street. The left turn here carries by winding cross streets up toward Eagle Hill, Avhich in some respects is quite as attractive as the Camp Hill region. Our route is to the right, to Winthrop Junction, and we may if we please walk along Bennington Street, passing the old burying-grounds on the shore side, thick with trees, the first called the East Boston Cemetery, and the second, some way beyond, the Hebrew Cemetei'y, dating from 1844, and containing many quaint stones with Jewish inscriptions. The elec- tric car line runs along Saratoga Street, above aud parallel with Bennington Street, and it would be better, perhaps, to ride over to Winthrop Junction, at which the two streets meet. From Winthrop Junction, where, if we have ridden, we leave the car, Ave may do Breed's Island, the hill of v/hich, bearing the modern name of Orient Heights, is right before us. Taking cross streets, we reach the road on the slope of the hill. Striking across lots, we ascend to the summit, and by the good road-way there reach the yellow tower which has been so conspicuous a mark in the landscape along our way. On the hill- side the ragged worn trees mark the site of tlie old Breed Farm buildings, which for long years were the only structures here (the main house of stone spreading two hundred feet long, and but one story high, with fine terraced gardens in front) and gave a peculiar attractiveness to the place, which it now lacks. From the bluff top, broad sweeps of water view, on the one side, and built-up hills on the other, are spread before us. Beyond the water tower, the hill is yet bare of houses, and as we approach the end toward Chelsea Creek, which separates it from East Boston, we have in front of us a pleasantly expanding panorama. Standing on the outer end of the bluff, and looking down to the water and across to East Bos- ton, we see the scene of the hottest part of the " Fight on Nod- dle's Island," in May, 1775, when the Americans, under Putnam, worsted the Bi'itish marines, and the news of which, arriving in the Continental Congi'ess, just as it was choosing general officers, influenced the vote for Putnam as major general. This fight was for the possession of live stock on Noddle's Island. A small detachment had been ordered to drive the stock off to the Chelsea side at low tide, and being observed from the British warships in the harbor, a schooner, a sloop, and the party of marines were despatched to stop the work. The Americans fell back to the ditch and lay in ambnsh, from which they picked off several of the marines. Then they retired across the creek to this island, having meanwhile run off three or four hundred sheep, lambs, cows, and horses. Late in the evening reinforcements of about three hun- 26 EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. dred men arrived with two pieces of canuou, and the fight was renewed. The British fired from their warships, from barges fixed witli swivels, and from Eagle Hill, on Noddle's Island. At length the schooner was abandoned, and grounded toward morning, when a scouting party from the American side, coolly removing her guns and sails, under a fire from the sloop, burned her to the water's edge. Then later in the forenoon of the second day the sloop became disabled and was towed otf by the enemy's boats. With a few more shots the firing ceased and the Americans were victorious. They had captured four swivels, and four four-pound cannon, losing not a single man, and with only four wounded, while the British loss was reckoned to be twenty killed and fifty wounded. In this little fight Joseph Warren served as a volunteer under Putnam. Returning by Orient Avenue, or taking any of the circling streets, at the right, we come around in the northerly direction to Walley Street, — into which Bennington Street makes from Win- throp Junction, — and take the electric road or the narrow gauge line at Belle Isle station, crossing Belle Isle inlet and the marshes to Beachmont. Or we can walk over, if we like, by the marsh roadway on the further side of the raik'oad. Belle Isle is a little grove of trees, utilized as a picnic place. At Beachmont we take the electric car for Chelsea, passing through Revere, or return to Boston by the narrow-gauge railroad. Walk b. If we make this walk an independent one we should go out from Boston by electric car marked Chelsea, Broadway, ■^^P^^ja^^" The Ancient Yeaman House. and ride through nearly the entire length of Chelsea to Powder- horn Hill, leaving the car at John Street from BroadAvay. En- tering from Beachmont, we approach in the opposite direction, leaving the car at Webster Avenue, near the Lowe Art Tile Works. On the way over we pass tlie ancient Yeaman house, the oldest EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 27 house now standing in Suffolk County. This weather-worn land- mark appears in view off to the left across a field, after we make the turn from Beach Street to Broadway (Fenno's Corner) and are Hearing the bridge (on Broadway) over the creek. This has been called the " old Yeaman house" for generations, from an early owner ; but before Yeaman's occupancy it may have been known as the " Shrimpton house," from an earher owner, and earher still, as "Newgate house," from Mr. John Newgate, whose landing place was nearby. [See note on Mather's mission, 1688, p. 25.] It is said to have been built about 1680. For some years Parson Cheever, the minister of Chelsea, lived here. The house is within the limits of Revere. The ascent of Powderhorn Hill is pleasing by almost any of the streets rising from Broadway. Taking Webster Avenue, and the first opening at the left, we have as we mount a delightfully expanding view of town and sea line beyond. The Soldiers' Home on the crest occupies a commanding position, its long sweep of piazza overlooking an unobstrvxcted view nearly half way round the horizon. With its attractive grounds, the sloping hillsides m front not too closely covered with houses, and the long flight of steps leading down to the streetways far below, its aspect is most inviting. The main house was originally built for a summer hotel, and has long been a conspicuous landmark for miles around. The mound bej^ond the house, shutting off the view on that side, is not a fort, as some visitors imagine upon its apj^roach, but an old reservoir. Following the roadwaj^ and the path above the reser- voir, we reach the topmost part of the hill, and here enjoy one of the fullest views of this region of pleasant hills. The long nar- row summit, with rounded edges and precipitous sides, suggest- ing to some imaginative souls a huge whale-back, stretches out quite a distance. Standing near the coast survey bolt, with back to the harbor, we have from this vantage ground, more distinctly than from any otlier hill-top within the Boston Basin, the com- plete outline of its boundary line, beginning with the Blue Hills range on the extreme left, and following round the circuit to the Saugus hills, tapering toward the farther sea-line at the extreme right. Below the sloping city, in the right foreground, lies the broad open of the Mystic marshes, with the river winding through them, and on either side closely built suburban city and town. Rough cuts have been made into the further sides and end of this fine hill in the construction of streets and the laying out of house-lots at the foot and along its slopes, and unless it is made a public reser- vation, as some leading citizens are now urging, within a few years it will be ruthlessly hacked, if not destroyed. There is a tradition 28 EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. that the hill received its peculiar name from the terms of its pur- chase from the Indians by early settlers, who paid for it a horn of powder. Mount "Washington is the rising' ground northwest of Powder- horn Hill, a short walk off. Descending the steep southerly slope to cross streets reaching Washington Avenue, or scrambling down from the westerly tip to Summit Avenue, and thence, bear- ing to the left through Winthrop Street to Washington Avenue, we follow the curve of the latter around to the right, and, shortly after passing the Lynn car stables, come to pretty Washington Park at the foot of the mount. This dainty bit of green, orna- mented with trees and shrubs, and inclosed by low, vine-covered, brown-stone walls, invites us to leave the roadway and take its main path across to the street on its left side, which leads up the hill. Before entering this street, however, let us take a few steps at the right along the street marking the upper bound of the park, that we may see from the inscription upon the flat stone set into the park wall that we are in historic parts. This inscription reads : This stone, once a door-step of the old Pratt mansion visited by Washing- ton during the siege of Boston, stands opposite the barrack grounds of Colonel Gerrish's regiment of 1775-7G. Returning to Franklin Street, at the left side of the park, we make our way up the hill, passing attractive suburban houses and grounds, enjoying the shade of the trees lining the road, and the occasional bits of views on the outer side. At the top let us enter the field across the upper road into which Franklin Street makes, and from its further side look over the landscape spreading oitt below and beyond. We have at our right Revere, at our left Everett, and glimpses of the sea between. This mass of trees over yonder, to the north, marks Woodlawn Cemetery, which lies in part within the limits of Everett. So also lies most of this Mount Washington, the dividing line between Chelsea and Everett being just back of the estates on the west side of Franklin Street. Down the hill by the way we came up, and again on Washington Avenue, let us make a short detour around the upper street to the northeast leading over to the Woodlawn road, and take a look at the oldest house in Chelsea, and especially interesting as a land- mark of the " Andros usurpation" times. This is the ancient "Way-Ireland house, and subsequently a homestead of the Pratt family, at which Increase Mather was in hiding before he sailed for England, in April, 1688, as agent for the oppressed colonists, to appeal for the intercession of the king. Mather had been selected for this mission by part of the civil and nearly all the ecclesiastical authorities. Randolph, determined if possible to pre- EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 29 vent his departure, had instigated Dudley to issue a warrant for his arrest, and to avoid service of the court, he went secretly and in disguise from house to house of friends, finally bringing up here, whence he made his way to the water and so reached the sliip " President " lying off the coast. The story is told in the "Remarkables of Increase Mather" in part as follows: "Mr. Mather withdrew privately from his house [in Boston] in a changed habit, into the house of Colonel Phillips, in Charlestown ; in which withdraw it is remarkable, that a wicked fellow whose name was Thurton, and who was placed as an under-sheriff to watch him and seize him if he stirred abroad, — now saw him and knew him, and yet found himself struck with an enfeebling terror, that he had no power to meddle with him. From thence he was by certain well-disposed young men of his flock transported unto Winnisimmet ; and from thence he went aboard a Ketch which lay ready to assist his voyage. From which he was, on April 7, 1688, gladly received aboard the ship (called the President) on which he had at first shipped him- self, and so bore awaj' for England." Sewall notes in his diary: "Fri. Mar. 30, 1688. I am told that Mr. Mather left his house and the town and went to Capt. PliilUps at Charlestown. Sabbath, Ap. 1. To Aron Way's by Hogg Island. Tuesday, Ap. 3. At night from Aron Way's to the Boat near Mr. Newgate's Landing Place, so through Crooked Lane [Straits of Belle Isle inlet] and Pulling Point Gut to Mr. Ruck's fishing-Catch thence to the Presi- dent, Capt. Arthur Tanar's ship. Satterday, Apr. 7. Captain Arthur Tanar sails about 10 aclock, a shallop follows quickly after, which 't is said to pre- vent Mr. Mather's getting on Board : 't is certain all the Town is full of dis- course about Mather." '^f^l/^.'Vrfieipn-T- The Way-Ireland House. Returning to Wasliingrton Avenue, our course is now back through the city to the United States Hospital grounds and the site of the fortified house of Samuel Maverick, the first perma- nent dwelling in the Massachusetts Bay Colony. It is pleasanter to ride over this part. So we board any Washington Avenue car bound down town, except such as are marked Winnisimmet Ferry, and in fifteen minutes reach the Hospital grounds near the Chelsea North Bridge connecting with Charlestown. The building on the 30 EAHT BOSTON AND CHELSEA. higher hill is the Marine Hospital, and those on the hill slopes toward the water constitute the Naval Hospital. The grounds are not freely open to the public, but a pass is not difficult to ob- tain, especially if it appears that the applicant desires merely to stroll about them and not to enter the buildings. It is a fair tract, beautifully situated, embracing upward of a hundred acres of upland and lowland, attractively laid out, with flower beds about the chief surgeon's house, broad fields beyond the principal structures, and pleasant pastures. The Naval Hospital was established here in 1823, and the Marine Hospital two years later, succeeding the first marine hospital erected in the Navy Yard at Charlestowu in 1802. The main part of the naval building, built of Quincy granite, dates from 1836, and the wing was added in 1865. This hos- pital admits invalid or wounded officers, seamen, and marines from the New England navy yards, and from United States naval vessels or foreign stations coming into the port of Boston. The Marine Hospital admits invalids of the merchant marine, and is supported by a fee required of every seaman enter- ing the port of Boston and Charlestown. The further parts of the grounds are occupied by the ordnance department of the navy. The site of Maverick's fortified house is within the field on the point bordering on the Mystic and Island End River on the west side. Maverick built here in 1624 or 1625, and according to his own narrative, published in 1660 (which was discovered in the British Museum in 1884), the dwelling was then standing "the Antientest house in the Massachusetts Government." It was fortified " with a Pillizado fflankers and gvmnes both belowe and above in them which awed the Indians who at that time had a mind to Cutt off the English." "They once forced it," Maver- ick relates, " but receiving a repulse never attempted it more although (as now they confesse) they repented it when 2 yeares after they saw so many English come over." Maverick could not have chosen a more jjicturesque spot in his large domain than this. The land lies to-day evidently as it lay in his day, gently sloping up from the shore, with the protecting hill behind. It is conject- ured that the house stood on the little knoll back from the rivers, in front, perhaps, of the row of ancient trees, yet vigorous, which add charm to the picture which the place presents. It was in this house that Winthrop and his associates were entertained upon their arrival in Boston Bay, on the seventeenth of June, 1630, and not at the Noddle's Island house as the local historians have held. That house was not built until about 1634. The error was started in Johnson's "Wonder Working Providence " (London, 1654), and other wi'iters repeated it until Judge Mellen Chamberlain, the historian of Chelsea, corrected it in a paper based upon the Mav- erick MS. of 1660, and on various researches of his own, which he contributed to the Massachusetts Historical Society in 1885, EAST BOSTON AND CHELSEA. 31 Judge Chamberlain shows that Maverick and John Blackleach were joint owners of all Winnisimmet outside the territory included in the United States Hospital grounds, these grounds apparently beuig owned by Maverick exclusively, before the coming of the Puritans. That he was still living here in 1631, a year after Wiuthrop's arrival, as appears by the following record (Mass. Colony Records) under date of August IG that year : " It is ordered that Mr. Shepheard and Robert Coles shall be fined five marks apiece, that Edward Gibbons Twenty shillings for abusing themselves disorderly with drinking too much strong drink aboard the Friendship and at Mr. Maverick his house at Winnisimmet." That there are reasons which indicate that neither at that time nor for some time after was there any residence on Noddle's Island — among them this record in Winthrop's Journal six moutlis after he is said to have entertained the governor there : "three of his [the governor's] servants coming in a shallop from Mistic were driven upon Nod- dle's Island and forced to stay there all night without fire or food." That the Winnisimmet estate was occupied as late as December, 1633, when, Win- throp notes in his Journal, "Mr. Maverick of Winnisimmet buried in one day" John Sagamore, the Indian chief, and "almost all of his people" who had died of the small pox at their dwelling-place across Island End River : adding that Mr. Maverick " is worthy of perpetual remembrance: himself, his wife, and servants went daily to them, ministered to their necessities and buried their dead, aud took away many of their children." That the Noddle Island house was built not earlier than 1634, and probably that year, as ap- pears from these facts : in July, 1637, Sir Harry Vane and Lord Ley dined with Mr. Maverick at Noddle's Island ; he doubtless had a house there at that date : from May, 1635, to May, 1636, he was in Virginia obtaining corn for the Bay colonists, and that this house was built before he took that jour- ney is inferred from the fact that his wife writing to Trelawny dated her letter from " Nottell's Island in Mass. Bay the 20th Nov. 1635." Maverick was a young man of but twenty-two years of age when he first came to Winni- simmet. Site of Maverick's First Fortified House. From the fine hill back of the Hospital fields there is to be obtained an interesting view, on the one side, of Chelsea rising toward Powderhorn Hill, and in front, the river. Leaving these grounds we had better walk back along Broad- way to Broadway Square, — the old-fashioned business central square of the city — and there take Winnisimmet Street to the ferry, although we can make the ferry in less than half the dis- tance through cross streets near the water side. Or if we prefer to return to town by the electric car, we can take it at the Hos- pital gate, close by the new North Chelsea Bridge to Charlestown. Everett, Maiden, Melrose, Sangus. From Boston to Everett by electric car from Scollay Square, via Charlea- towii, 4 miles; fare, 5 cents. By steam car [B. & M., E. Div.] to Everett station, 3}^ miles, fare, 8 cents. Return from Maiden Centre. Boston to Maplewood [Maiden] by steam car [B. & M., W. Div.], 5 miles ; fare, 13 cents. Return from Cliftondale [Saugus]. Boston to Pine Banks [Maiden and Melrose] by electric car, from Scollay Square to Maiden Centre, change there to Chelsea and Stonehani line, about? miles ; fare, 10 cents. By steam car [B. &. M., W. Div.], to Middlesex Fells station [Melrose] ; 6 miles, fare, 10 cents. Return from Cliftondale [Saugus] ; or from Saugus Centre, a mile beyond. Walk a [No. 5]. Includes the Van Vorhees farm on Mystic Side, and Island End Creek ; passes over Belmont Hill to Woodlawn ; along the rural road on the easterly side of the cemetery into Revere ; by Beach Street through Linden [Maiden] ; through Salem Street to Maiden Centre and the Converse Memorial ; finishes in or about Maiden Centre. Walk b [No. 6]. Through Lebanon Street from Maplewood to Melrose ; around Swain's Pond ; from Lebanon Street in Melrose, to Upham Street ; thence by the country road to Saugus ; alongside The Ledges, and the brook at their feet ; amidst rural scenery and by old houses ; Cliftondale. Walk c [No. 7]. Embraces Pine Banks ; Boston Rock and its surrounding woods [Wyoming] ; along Main Street, through Wyoming, toward Melrose Centre ; passes over Howard Street to Noi'th Saugus : by ancient landmarks in seventeenth-century houses ; along rural Main Street, Saugus, to the New- buryport Turnpike ; across to Cliftondale : from Cliftondale to Saugus Centre : historic houses by the way ; " Appleton's Pulpit " and " Pranker's Pond." What are now the cities of Everett and Maiden, and the town of Melrose, formerly, for the most part, constituted the town of Maiden : and Maiden was at first a part of Charlestown known as " Mystic Side." The petition of "Mystic Side men" to be "a towne by themselves " was granted by the Court of Assistants in 1649, and seventy- seven years later the town was en- larged by a further taking from Charlestown of territory on the northerly side of the Mystic River and on the easterly side of North (afterward Maiden) River. Thereafter it held its own until 1817, when a part was lost to Med- ford. Next, in 1850, the part known as North Maiden was taken from it and made the town of Melrose : and in 1870, South Maiden, including the territory annexed from Charlestown in 17'2G, was set off as Everett. Maiden was in- corporated as a city June 9, 1881. It was named for the town in England from which several of the " Mystic Side " men had come. Although pretty compactly built in its central parts, it has numei'ous pleasant landscape fea- tures. It embraces sightly hills, a beautiful private park free to the public, known as Pine Banks, and a pai't of the Middlesex Fells Reservation. Its main divisions are : Maiden Centre ; Maplewood, Linden, and Linden High- lands on the east : Oak Grove and Edgeworth on the west. Everett is small in territory (2325 acres), in length, 21/2 miles, and in breadth, 1^ miles ; and thick with Jiouses in small lots. The Mystic River runs along its southern boundary, the Maiden River is on the western, and Island End River on the eastern. The southwestern part is largely composed of salt marsh, and the centre is only about fifty feet above mean tide mark. But from this part the land gradually rises toward the northeast into Belmont Hill (133 feet) and Mount Wasliington (175 feet). Tlie valley between these hills stretches northwesterly to Maiden, and on its easterly side, as the Maiden end is neared, is a smaller elevation known as Corbett Hill. In the northwest part is Woodlawn Cemetery. Everett was named for Edward Everett. EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, S AUG US. 33 Melrose marks the eastern boundary of Middlesex County. It covers 2931 acres. It was incorporated May 3, 1850. Its surface is charmingly dlTcrsi- fied with valleys, hiUs, lowland fields and upland woods, ponds and brooks ; and it has numerous beautiful landscape features. Within its southern and western borders are the Middlesex Fells, and in other parts several pleasant local hills and rocky heights. L Pond Brook, the outlet of L Pond, runs through the valley in andabout which the main part of the town is built, and is joined in the Wyoming district by Spot Pond Brook, the outlet of Spot Pond in the Fells, from which point the united streams flow into Maiden River. The town is in five divisions, — the Fells, Wyoming, the Centre, Mel- rose Higlilands, and Morrisville. The name of Melrose was selected at the suggestion of a Scotchman, an old resident in the place, who fancied in it some slight resemblance to the famous village on the Tweed. Saugus when first settled was within the territory of Lynn, which then included what are now tlie towns of Swampscott, Nahaut, Lynnfield, Reading, and Wakefield. The name of Saugus is from the Indian word Sagus, meaning extended, and was applied by the first settlers to the territory which became Lynn, because, it is presumed, of the broad salt marshes characterizing the shore parts. It was made Lynn in 1G37 by an order, remarkable for brevity and directness, — " Saugus is called Lin." It was not till 1815 that the parts comprising the present town of Saugus were set off from Lynn, and the old name restored. The picturesque Saugus River was originally by the Indians called Abousett. Saugus includes about 13*^ square miles of pleasant plains and hills, with upward of 2 square miles of salt marsh. Although in the vil- lages manufacturing is pursued to considerable extent, there are yet numer- ous comfortable farms in the outlying parts, and the town possesses many charming rural features. Old houses and ancient estates also abound here. Walk a. The inviting parts of Everett, which is most remark- able for its rapid growth, and its thickly built up streets along marshes and over hills, are to be covered in a walk in two sec- tions, with an extended car ride between. Going out by the regu- lar electric car route, — by way of Charlestown and the Maiden Bridge over the Mystic from Charlestown Neck, — the first sec- tion of the walk is to and through the old Van Vorhees place on the banks of the Mystic and the marshes of Island End River ; (and) the second begins at the end of the street car route to Woodlawn, proceeding past the eastern side of the cemetery, by a rural road into Revere, and thence by Beach Street toward Maiden. If we go out by steam car we leave the station in Everett on the right side, and reach the Van Vorhees place by way of Bow Street, bearing to the left. But from the electric car line the walk across is shorter, and a degree pleasanter, although by neither way is the passage fair. Approaching by electric car we have a good distant view of the farm across the river to the right, after the turn from Charlestown Neck on to the Maiden road (Broadway by name), and it is with us, growing fuller, as we pro- ceed over the bridge across the Mystic. Alighting at Washburn Street, at the right, about a half mile beyond the bridge, we pass through that short way and over a cross street to Beacham Street, which leads directly to the farm. This is one of the oldest of " Mystic Side " roads, originally laid out in 1681, as " the Road to 34 EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. Wormwood Point," the name first given the peninsTila upon which the farm lies, and Avhich it bore till it came into the possession of the Beacham family early in the eighteenth century. Thereafter it went by the name of Beachana's Point, tiU the advent of the Van Vorheeses early in the present century. Beacham Street passes over a marshy territory, built up on either side, but not so closely as to shut off all view of the wide extending marshes, and the distant uplands at the left. A walk of not more than fifteen or twenty minutes brings us within sight of the old Van Vorhees mansion-house by a grove of stately trees, a conspicuous and agreeable feature in a neighbor- hood of cheap modern dwellings : and presently we are at the entrance of the farm . The mansion-house stands here on the bend of the road, occupying a slight bluff, set well back from the hedge extending along the roadside wall, and approached by a broad flagging from the hedge-arched gateway. It is a typical mansion- house of early nineteenth-century fashion, broad, square, spacious : of block-wood front, rounded two-storied vestibule, and flat roof with extra story. Although worn somewhat by time and not in the fine condition of its prime in the old Van Vorhees days, when the farm was well kept up and the house occupied by the owner of the estate, it is yet a picturesque, serene, dignified homestead, with a little of the " grand air " yet left. Round the curve of the road, screened at the approach of the farm by the mansion-house and grounds, is the large stable with fine herds of cattle and horses, on one side, and on the other, below the mansion-house, the fai'mer's house, dating from an earlier period. Following the road, which becomes a rural lane, circling round to the right, we may explore the entire peninsula: and enjoy a pleasant walk along the marsh side and by a sightly bluff, from which good river views are to be obtained. It was here, perhaps, on this sightly bluff, that the little fortification was thrown up after the battle of Bunker Hill, when at the same time earthworks were also built at the junction of Main and Bow Streets, further back on the mainland. During the battle, a company was stationed on this point, under the command of a Maiden man, and we may imag- ine that its position was taken on this same bluff. The peninsula is interesting, moreover, as the dwelling-place of Sagamore John, with a remnant of the once powerful tribe of Pawtuckets, whom the Puritans found upon their coming decimated by the " plague" and tribal wars. Here the chief, Sagamore John, and the greater number of his people were stricken with the small-pox, and dying, were buried by Samuel Maverick, then living across the creek (or Island End River, as it is called), on the present Naval Hospital EVERETT, JTALDEN, MELROSE, S AUG US. 35 grounds. [See Walk No. 4.] We find this indeed a beautiful place, and we echo the suggestion of Mr. Sylvester Baxter, that it should he reserved for Metropolitan park purposes, connected by pleasant routes with the centre of the population of Everett, and with Chelsea by bridge sprung across the creek. Returning by the way we came, or, at the end of Beacham Street, taking Bow Street around to the right, we reach Broad- way again, and here board an electric car, marked Woodlawn Cemetery via Chelsea and Ferry Street. This carries us through the centre of Everett, by Belmont Hill, passing the Fred E. Parlin Memorial or Public Library building (given to the city by Parlin, long a resident of Everett, as a memorial to his son), on the left side of the way, and through Everett Square to Chelsea Street, at the right. Thence the ride is an agreeable one, with views along Chelsea Street, at the right over the marsh-lands toward the Van Vorhees place, and an occasional outlook from the road up the hill beyond. Finally turning into Elm Street, well named from the lines of fine trees at its entrance, we reach the beginning of the second section of our Everett walk — along the rural road past the easterly side of "Woodlawn Cemetery. This road we reach by a short walk up the hill beyond the en- trance gate. It comes over from Chelsea, and is a pretty country road a large part of the way. Following it along toward Revere, we pass occasionally a comfortable farm-house, full of years, with the conventional two elms before the entrance door. Such an one, and most attractive, is observed on the right side of the road, just after the cemetery is passed. On the right also, and beyond, are shapely drumlins, from which are extensive views over marsh and coast scenery. The road, with its grassy sidewalks, makes its pleasant way along by broad meadows, lowlands, and fields. Some distance beyond the farm-house which we have remarked, the road curves to the right and again to the left, offering a pleas- ing view over swamp-lands, with a brook marked by lines of willows, making off through them, and in the distance, around to the north, the boundary hills of the Boston Basin. Further along, beyond the second bend, we come to a refreshing clump of wil- lows, with a brook on the opposite side of the road, a favorite resting-place for bicyclers, who much frequent this way. Our road ends at Copeland's Corner, where it makes a junction with Beach Street coming over from Maiden, and continuing to the right, to Revere Beach, according to the guide-post two and a half miles distant. Here we may take an electric car passing along Beach Street Maiden-ward, west, and make return to Boston from Linden station, on the Saugus Branch [B. & M., E. Div.]. It 36 EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, S AUG US. would be pleasanter, however, since the walk, as our walks go, has been a short one, to continue on by car, or part of the way afoot, through Maplewood by way of Salem Street, which the car line enters from Beach Street, to Maiden Centre. The rural parts of Salem Street are pleasing, and it curves around and over hills as a country road should. On the right side at, and for some distance beyond, the entrance of Beach Street, are abrupt rocky steeps, fringed with trees : while on the other side, as we stroll or ride along, we have refreshing views, now and again, over broad mead- ows and an open country in the foreground to distant hills. As Maiden Centre is approached the way becomes more urban, and indeed some distance before we are well into Maplewood the rural features of the road disappear. From Maiden Centre, after a look into the Converse Memorial or Public Library building, which we should not miss, we may continue southward, down Main Street by car to Madison Street, and thence afoot to the ancient burying-ground near Bell Rock, returning to Boston from the Bell Rock station [B. & M., E. Div.]. But if it is preferred to return direct from the Centre we may take the electric cars in Maiden Square here, having choice of two or three routes, or the steam cars from the Maiden station [B. & M., E. Div.], a short walk down Ferry Street. The Converse Memorial Building is one of the richest pieces of architecture in the country round about Boston, the design of H. H. Richardson, and one of the last of his beautiful works, having been completed shortly before his death. It was erected, as the tablet in the porch informs us, by Elisha S. and Mary D. Converse, in memory of their son, Frank Eugene Converse (who, a lad of seventeen, when clerk in the Maiden Bank, was killed at his post of duty in December, 1863, by one Green, a villager, in the latter' s attempt to rob the bank when the boy was alone in charge) and presented to the city of Maiden for use as a free Public Library and Art Gallery. The library contains an admirable collection of books, and in the Art Gallery are notable paintings by Albion H. Bicknell, George L. Brown, William E. Norton, H. Winthrop Pierce, Frank H. Collins, W. T. Robinson, H. W. Herrick, and other well known artists, with some fine sculpture, and a number of etchings, engravings and photographs. The paintings include Bicknell's " Lincoln at Gettysburg," on the occasion of the dedication of the National Cemetery, in 1865, with its twenty or more excellent portraits in the group of statesmen and soldiers surrounding the President. The bronze bust of Mr. Converse, placed on the wall opposite the entrance hall, is by Samuel Kitson. EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. 37 This is a building of brown sandstone in the Provencal Romanesque style of architecture. The feature of the main wing, fronting on Salem Street, is the colonnade of muUioned windows across nearly all the front. The sky line is broken by two towers, the central one octagonal, its upper portion pierced with arched windows, the corner tower round and unbroken by apertures. The wall of irregular height surrounding the court yard on two sides, of the same material as the main building, forms two sides of an equilateral, the other sides being formed by the wings of the building. The entrance porch called the Memorial Porch, from tlie tablet which it contains, is the most elaborately ornamented of any part of the building. The open side is formed of four arches supported by carved pillars, each pillar consisting of a cluster of four columns about a massive block of .stone. The delicate carvings of the capitals represent a cutting of vines interwoven with geometrical forms. A marked feature of the exterior ornamentation of the building is that upon the octagonal tower. On each of the corners between the windows is the sculptured head of a laughing boy, wearing a cap drawn close over his curl- ing hair. The west gable is pierced by a large mullioned window, its arch rising into the second story. The south gable shows mosaic work cut and built into the wall, of three colors of sand and green stone. An arch for forming a part of the Memorial Porch, a large window below, and a smaller one above, break the surface of the gable. At the corners, carved out of solid stone, is a huge dragon. Throughout the building the caps, cornices, finials, crockets, and the beads of the arches are all carved from full sized models. The interior is marked by richness of color, and simplicity of treatment. Memorial Hall, the first entered, is wainscoted in oak panels, the walls of rough sand finish, and colored in Pompeian green and ochre. A high arch divides it from the Library proper. There is no break in the high cai'ved ceiling. The alcoves of the Delivery room are formed by ten clusters of fluted columns with elaborately carved caps and bases, upon which the curved gallery runs around three sides of the room. The finish here is in quartered white oak. The northern wall of the Reading Room is nearly all taken up by an immense fireplace. Walk b. We reach our starting-point for this walk by the steam cars to Maplewood station. From the station we take Maplewood Street to Salem Street and here cross to Lebanon Street, practically the beginning of the walk. The way now lies the length of Lebanon Street into Melrose. Shortly after pass- ing from the village, and beyond the shops marking the begin- ning of the street, we come into a pleasant country which grows pastoral as we proceed. With sweeping curves, on the one side clifiFs and hills, and on the other more or less open country, the road makes its peaceful waj\ We pass picturesque, weather-worn houses, here a modest homestead, the big chimney denoting good old age, with brilliant garden patches, and blooming rose-bushes ; there a cottage on the edge of woods to which a worn foot-path thrt)ugh the grass leads : — a qviarter which the enterprising real- estate operator has not yet seized upon for development, and is yet delightfully unimproved. At the fork made by Mt. Pleasant and Swain's Pond Avenues (they should be called roads) at the right, and our road bending toward the left, we may, if we like, and are ready considerably to extend our walk, take the Swain's Pond Road and make a large circuit, coming back to Lebanon Street by way of Grove Street, 38 EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. near Melrose Post Office. This detour will carry us around Swain's Pond (so named as early as 1660) and through a charm- ing rural region, with few habitations in the earlier part, and these of ancient make. The road opens invitingly, suggesting a lane-like way. If we follow it, at the first bend toward the left, we shall come upon a pretty brook, whose music we shall have with us for quite a little distance. From this bend it is a short walk to the pond side. The roadway follows the water's edge to the hill beyond, where it turns sharply to the left and, leaving the pond, continues in a long sweep around to Grove Street. At the point where it leaves the pond side and makes the bend up the hill, a cutting straight ahead leads by a left turn into a narrow way, not nauch more than a cart road, which invites exploration, but it has an uninteresting finish in a little hillside quarter occu- pied by small farms. After completing its circuit of the pond, Swain's Pond Road broadens and becomes less picturesque, as its sides appear cleared and cut into house-lots. The walk through Grove Street, however, though a well built up thoroughfare, is cheerful. From the central square, where the roads meet, we continue by Lebanon Street to TJpliani Street (in early times Upham's Lane, named for the Uphams first settled here about 1650) into which we turn and follow to the eastward over to Saugus. The walk to Saugus, after the thickly built portion of Upham Street is passed, and we step from the hard asphalt sidewalk, of which Melrose is over-fond, into the grassy roadside path, is full of rural delights. The road passes all the way through a charming country, with varying views on either side ; and when it gets fairly off from the town it develops into the pleasantest of country roads, fringed with thick grass, and vines, and bush, and often well shaded by handsome trees. In June it is in many places lined with masses of buttercups, clover tops, daisies, wild strawberry blossoms ; and in autumn it makes a rich display of color in its ripening roadside growth. We pass occasionally a prosperous- looking country-seat, but more frequently fair farms, with or- chards and meadows, and pastures stocked with fine cattle. As the road enters Saugus, down a sharp hill, it passes a remarkaMy picturesque line of ledges, beautifully draped with ferns, and a brook babbling at their feet, a bit of charming scenery that should be jjreserved in the custody of the Trustees of Public Reserva- tions ; and from this point on for some distance its charms are many. It approaches the village with a series of curves, and gives us pleasant views of the serene old town. On the Saugus side of the line the name of our road changes EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAVGUS. 39 from UpLaiu to Essex Street, and as such it continues through the quarter known as Cliftondale. Beyond the Newburyport turnpike, which branches off at the left on the outskirts of Clif- tondale, the way becomes less interesting, but only so by compari- son with the delightful section through which we have been passing. Of the houses in this neighborhood one at least invites special attention — the large old-fashioned structure with broad two-story columned veranda supporting the roof, standing back from the road, near the little grassy triangle. This is known as the Dr. Cheever Place. It was built in 1808, by Dr. Cheever, who had served as a surgeon in the Revolutionary War, and in its prosperous days was a famous mansion-house, surrounded bj-^ a little forest of handsome trees, and the centre-piece of an exten- sive estate. A quarter of a mile or so beyond we come to the railroad which the highway crosses, and a httle way further on turn toward the Cliftondale station [Saugus Branch, B. & M., E. Div.], at the right, where our walk finishes, our return to Boston being made by steam car. Walk c. For this walk, beginning at Pine Banks, on the line between Maiden and Melrose, and finishing in Saugus, we take the steam cars to Middlesex Fells station, or we may ride out by electric car, making change at Maiden Square. If we take the steam car out we have a walk of a few minutes to Pine Banks : if we go out by electric car we come directly upon the main entrance to the park. The walk from the steam railroad station is a pretty one, the roadway, at the right, passing by ex- pansive fields and up to Main Street in front of Pine Banks. On the other side of the track — the left — we see the Fells spread- ing back from the Cascade Entrance [see Middlesex Fells, Walk No. 8]. At the upper corner of the station road and Main Street we have in the broad old dwelling, with the two rugged elms before the portal, an admirable specimen of the combined farm and mansion-house of the early eighteenth century. This was one of several Lynde homesteads, within the territory of Melrose, built about a century and a half ago, when this beautiful valley was embraced in the extensive Lynde Farm. The interior has all the characteristics of the w^ell-ordered house of its period — the large tow-studded rooms, the broad hall extending through the middle of the house, the big chimney and the massive oven, chimney closets, corner closets, and quaint cupboards. The Lyndes were among the earliest settlers here, Ensign Thomas Lynde mov- ing from old Charlestown very soon after the incorporation of Maiden. He was a son of Thomas Lynde, of Charlestown, who was made a freeman in 1G34, and from him the numerous family 40 EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, S AUG US. of Melrose Lyndes descend. In early times the Lynde holdings included nearly all the southern territory of the present town. The Lynde House, near Pine Banks. Main Street crossed, we enter Pine Banks by a side roadway, and at the summit of the slight rise come at once into the thick of the woods, near by the swamp which has been transformed into a little mirroring pond. The main entrance is some distance below, or Maiden-ward, by way of Pine Banks Road, passing a pretty lodge; the road skirting the entire park, coming out on the Melrose side. This park, by the way, it should be stated, is not precisely speaking a public park, but a private pleasure-ground loaned to the public by the Hon. Elisha S. Converse, who has done so much for Maiden in various ways, and under whose direction this pre- serve has been laid out. It is as free to the people, however, as any of the regular piablic reservations ; and the only rules laid down for the observance of those who enjoy it as a resort simply prohibit the plucking of any flower, Avild or cultivated, or the dis- figurement of any tree or shrub. We find it a region of noble pines, covering a beautifully undulating surface, with shaded walks, and charming drives winding picturesquely over and around hills and into dales. It is much resorted to by picnickersf while it is daily used largely by workmen and women passing between the factories of Mr. Converse across the railroad and their homes beyond. Excursionists are attracted hither, from a wide circle of country, by means of the electric cars which pass along Main Street, connecting Chelsea with Stoneham and Woburn. EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. 41 -- =-^-:-. i^'^i p/ # n In the open space about the little pond to which paths and drive- ways lead from the skirting road, public meetings are sometimes held on b>undays. Here are also conveniences for picnickers. From this pleasant park our way lies across a broad plain or field toward Bos- ton Rock, the elevation next beyond Pine Banks lying in the Wyoming sec- tion of Melrose. Coming out by the Pine Banks Road, we shoidd bear to the right and take the roadway across the mid- dle of the field. We must avoid the cross path, to- ward which we wistfully look when once into the midway road, for the rea- son, as a sign here pro- claims, that it is not a public path. Entering the main road on the farther side, we should take the right turn toward the cem- etery. We can, indeed, reach the Boston Rock re- gion, which now is just in front of us, by a pretty di- rect way, if we are ready to indulge in some hard scrambling; but it would be quite as well to take the wood paths, approaching the height b^'" a circuitous way around its base. These wood paths are to be reached from the road into which we are turning, just beyond the bend by the entrance to the ceme- tery. We shall observe, on the left side of the road at about this point, if we look sharply, a narrow opening in the bank : and thence, easily passing under the slight rustic fencing, we may enter the side path. Following this path in an easterly direction we quickly strike the slightly beaten way running along the base of the hill to a rocky quarter bej'^ond, where is a broader wood path, leading northward. The broader path we next follow for a short distance till we come to a fork ; and from this point, taking the left branch, our way is upward through the splendid woods, ««i42::£= Spring Path, Pine Banks. 42 EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. largely of pine, diflfering from Pine Banks only in being wilder. The path from the roadway is, in parts, rather faint, but we shall find little difficulty in keeping to it, if we mind our bearings. Reaching the summit of this finely wooded hill, we come upon the Rock, or cluster of rocks, with a bare, treeless surface. Making our easy way to the topmost of the ledge, suddenly a magnificent view bursts upon us. Facing Pine Banks, we have directly beneath us the lovely in- tervale of the field over which we have crossed : beyond the Banks, the hill crowned with the black tower of the Maiden Water Works. At the right of the latter, on the distant horizon line, we discern the shadowy range of the Blue Hills : in nearer view, Boston, and nearer still. Maiden ; and around to the right, the grand sweep of the Fells Hills. At the left lie mingled woods and town. In the distance is seen the yellow tower of Breed's Island, and the sea line beyond : then, nearing the Maiden water-tower, the massed house-tops of Everett. Back of us are the small woods, close up to the ledge. From the lower rock line, or gallery, on the edge of the precipitous sides, fringed with tree- tops, we have a closer view of the valley below, which has a peculiar charm. Leaving Boston Rock, we strike into the little woods, taking a northerly direction, and make our way toward Wyoming. The path is broad nearly all the way down, passing a part of the dis- tance beneath lofty pines, and carpeted with soft pine needles. The air is sweet with rich pine odors. Now and again the melodi- ous piping of birds is heard, and other pleasant wood sounds min- gled with the noise of builders' hammers, for this is a narrow copse and the town is pressing close upon it. The down path covers about half a mile, at length emerging in an open by the roadway, — the Main street which we crossed further down to enter Pine Banks. Upon reaching the open we turn to the left and come out on to the road by way of the hillside avenue lead- ing to the little cottage-house at the left, backed against the trees. Let us now take the electric car and ride on to Melrose, for this part of Main Street is not especially interesting. The earlier section in Wyoming is the prettiest, being well adorned with trees and picturesque side-hill slopes. Wyoming Avenue, which we soon pass on the left, leads down to the Wyoming station of the steam railroad, and goes on to the Fells, ultimately joining Main Street above Spot Pond. We should leave the car in Mel- rose at the head of Emerson Street, which makes up from the Mel- rose station, a short walk to the left, passing by several old estates, EVERETT, MALDEX, MELROSE, S AUG US. 43 among them that of Mrs. Mary A. Livermore, the well known lecturer. Now again afoot, we start for the walk around to Saugus. Con- tinuing up Main Street we pass, on the left, placid L Pond, which luis borne this name since 1638. At the fork in the roads which is soon reached, we take the right, Green Street, following the elec- tric car tracks. Main Street, making off to the left, goes on to Wakefield and Reading. In Green Street we are treading one of the older roads. Following it to the finish at the little park with its centre fountain, we here enter Howard Street at the right turn. The turn in the other direction bends toward Main Street, and is to be taken for Melrose Highlands. Howard Street was originally part of the countj^ road between Stoneham and LjTin. For the first part it is commonplace, although good views are now and again disclosed on either side : but after the sidewalks are left, it becomes a country road with the pleasant char- acteristics of the old time thoroughfare, which the monotonously straight street so much beloved by modern town roadmakei-s lacks. Occasionally, we pass a farm-house with blooming front-yard garden ; while near-by fields with distant hills make pleasing pictures for us as we stroll onward. The loftiest of the hills, in the right distance, which keeps us company for a considerable part of the way, is known as Pine Hill, and is used, as the signal pole on its summit denotes, in State survey work. As we approach the end of the road we come upon a rare old landmark — a seventeenth-century house with overhanging second story, and leanto, set close to the road line. This is one of the 44 EVERETT, MALDEN, 3IELR0SE, S AUG US. Boardman houses, occupying a part of the old Boardman farm, which was one of the earliest cultivated in this region. The house is said to be upward of two hundi'ed years old, built perhaps between 1670 and 1680. Within, the old-time finish is fairly well preserved, the hewn oak beams showing in the ceilings of the low-studded rooms, and the great chimney containing the commodious oven, though long since closed up. In the back yard is yet foimd the old well sweep, but no longer in use, a slim pump taking its place. Beyond, across the farm way, the big barn stands invitingly open, and here are found the roomiest of quarters for cattle and other farm stock, with great hay-lofts. A httle way beyond, another ancient house appears, slightly more picturesque in look because of its setting, back from the roadway into which ours enters, and on a slight rise, presenting a side with the leanto to our view. This is another Boardman homestead, built, we are told, about two years after the first one. It is somewhat smaller than the first, but with similar interior. We find the same low-studded rooms, with stout oak beams protruding, the huge chimney extending through the middle of the dwelling, the large " living-room," the quaint chimney, side and corner closets, the cosy kitchen. Out- side, the ancient shingling remains, attached with hand-wrought nails ; and the rugged frame seems yet strong and durable. The present occupant of this rare old homestead displays its curious features with genuine pride, and with them shows the old spin- ning-wheel used by his mother, with the yarn still on it which she spun on the celebration of her golden wedding day years back. At the opening of the Revolution the house was occuiiied by Samuel Boardman, who hurried off to Bunker Hill with other minute-men of Saugus and never returned, being among the killed of that fateful June day. The other house was the home of Aaron Boardman during the Revolutionary period, and afterward that of his son Abijah, who lived here until his death, well into the present century. Now still following the electric railway track, we continue our walk southward along Main Street, in which our road from Mel- rose ends. Northward Main Street leads toward the sightly eminence called Castle Rock, between Saugus and Wakefield, and into a pleasant country well worth a visit. Just bej'ond our turn into Main Street we cross the brook coming down through the broad meadow on our right, which used to flow cheerily in front of the old house on the knoll, when the county road was further over to the westward. From this point on, the way is charmingly rural for quite a little distance. On the left we shortly reach a hand- some-looking estate screened from the roadway by a thick line of EVERETT, MALDEN, MELROSE, SAUGUS. 45 trees, but as we turn into the inviting avenue entrance, we are confronted by the sign *'No trespassing" with this added cour- teous appeal : These are private grounds and it is hoped all persons will have the courtesy to avoid trespassing witliout further uotice. A request so politely worded cannot be ignored, — indeed we are careful in all our walks to avoid the slightest trespass on gfrounds not free to the public, without permission to enter, — and so we take again to the road. We are, however, rewarded slightly for our virtue further along the way, near the Forest Street corner, by a good view across the grounds and of the mansion-house within them. Tliis is an old-time country-seat, now known locally as the Saunders Place. Forest Street, making off to the left, thickly wooded on either side, is a delightful way to the wood- lands some distance beyond ; and leads to the Phillips Place. After a stroll of perhajis half a mile, we reach the old New- buryport Turnpike, and here make our turn to the right. Thence we cross over to Essex Street, and taking here the right turn, traverse the route followed at the finish of Walk 6, bringing up at the Cliftondale station, from which we return by steam car to Boston. The substantial old-fashioned white house which we pass on the turnpike, a little way below the turn from Main Street, and marked by the front lantern signs, ''Saugus Poor Farm," was once a fair mansion-house, and stiU preserves a dig- nified air despite its present use. This farm was originally the Tudor Place, and the house, now sheltering the favored poor of Saugus, was erected in the first year of the present century by William Tudor, known to the neighborhood as Judge Tudor. It took the place of a venerable farm-house, the homestead which Judge Tudor inherited from his father, John Tudor, and parts of the old structure were used in building the new. Frederick Tudor of Boston and Nahant, eminent among Boston merchants of his day, was a son of William Tudor. This walk, if not already too long, might be continued beyond Cliftondale to Saugus Centre, and ''Appleton's Pulpit" in the valley of the Saugus River, a distance of about a mile and three quarters. The way would take us by a number of interesting old houses, and bring us into the neighborhood of picturesque " Pranker's Pond," a basin formed in the river by the dam for Pranker's Mills, below which the stream courses tranquilly through meadows bordered by wooded slopes. Part of the distance — as far as Saugus Centre — can be covered by electric car, but by a round- 46 EVERETT, 2IALDEN, MELROSE, SAtGUS. about course. On Essex Street, near the Cliftondale station, is the first of the series of old houses to which we refer. This is the Eustis house, considerably remodeled, originally built in 1807 by Jacob Eustis, brother of Governor Eustis, for the Eustis fam- ily country residence. Beyond, on Chestnut Street, which is entered from Essex Street, is a quaint old house, picturesquely set, with an elm at the rear spreading its branches over the roof, and thick bushes bordering the path from the gate. This is the Danforth house, dating from before the Revolution. On Central Street, into which turn is made from Chestnut Street, is a house built upward of a hundred years ago, originally a road-side inn. But the " Iron- works house " in Saugus Centre, on Central Street, is the most famous of all the older houses of the section. This was built in 1(343, by projectors of the first iron-works successfully established in the country, the site of which is marked by a heap of slag opposite. It is a wooden house, with two stories front, a long leanto, and massive chimney upon which the date is marked. " Appleton's Pulpit" is reached through Central Street, and is near the corner of Appleton Street. It is a picturesque rock or ledge, well covered with trees growing from the crevices. It acquired its name from the story of its use as a rostrum by Major Samuel Appleton, of Ipswich, in September, 1687, at the time of the Andros usurpation, to stir the yeomanry to action. The tradi- tion runs that in " resisting the tyranny of Sir Edmund Andros," Major Appleton " spoke to the people in behalf of those principles which later were embodied in the Declaration of Independence." An inscribed tablet marks this pulpit. Middlesex Fells. Entrances. In Maiden : at Bear's Den Hill, reached by the Middlesex Fells Parkway from Pleasant Street. Nearest steam railway station, Oak Grove [Boston and Maine]. Electric car line by Main and Pleasant Streets, to the Parkway. In Melrose : at the Cascade, near the Fells station [Boston and Maine], and short walk from Main Street along which the electric car line from Boston runs ; further north, at the Ravine Road, reached by a half mile walk through Wyoming Avenue from the Wyoming station [Boston and Maine] ; and at the northeast point, from Emerson Street, a short walk from Melrose station [Boston and Maine]. In 3IedJ'ord : at Pine Hill, reached by the Fells Parkway and Forest Street from Medlord Square, through which the electric cars from Boston pass, and within a stone's throw of the steam railway station [Boston and Maine] ; or by Woodland Road reached by Fulton Street. In Winchester : by side streets from Washington Street, a short walk from the railway station. In Sloneham : from either Main or Pond Streets. Fares from Boston : to Maiden,^ Oak Grove station, 11 cents, by electric car 5 cents : to Fells station, 12 cents, by electric car 5 cents ; to Wyoming station, 13 cents ; to Melrose station, 14 cents ; to Medford sta- tion, 10 cents ; to Winchester, IG cents ; to Stoneham, 25 cents. Wiilk a. [No. 8.] Melrose (Fells station) to Medford, beginning at the Cascade Entrance, and ending on the southwest border of the reservation west of Pine Hill : thence across to High Street and Medford Square, from which return by electric or steam car. Covers the lower half from east to west, and southwest, and embraces the Cascade, the summit of Black Rock, Shilly Shally Brook side. Cairn Hill, Hemlock Pool, the groves along the southern border of Spot Pond, with fullest views of the pond, old Silver Mine, and Silver Mine Hill, and the southwestern woodlands. Distance, about five miles. Walk b. [No. 9.] Medford to Wyoming (Melrose), beginning at the Pine Hill Entrance (Forest Street) and extending from the extreme south of the reservation to the northeast side, finishing at the junction of Wyoming Avenue and the Ravine Road, about a half of a mile distant, by Wyoming Avenue, from the Wyoming station, from which return. Covers the south- eastern parts, and embraces Pine Hill and woodlands, the Wright's Pond region, the southeast corner of Spot Pond, Woodland Road, Ravine Road, and Virginia Wood. Distance, about four miles. Walk c. [No. 10.] Winchester to Melrose, beginning at the Winchester Entrance, and ending at the northeast corner of the reservation, within fif- teen minutes' walk of Melrose station, from which return. Covers northern part, and embraces Squaw Sachem Rock, the Tower, the Causeway and the borders of the Winchester Reservoirs, Bear Hill, and Cheese Rock, Doleful Pond, and the woody region on the northeast corner. Distance, about five miles. Walk d. [No. 11.] Maiden to Melrose Highlands, beginning at the Park- way, by Fellsmere, in Maiden, and extending across the eastern side of the Fells to the northwestern corner. Ends by Whip Hill, one mile from Melrose Highlands station [Boston and Maine]. Embraces Bear's Den, Boojum Rock, Jerry Jingle Notch, Hemlock Pool, Shiner Pool, (Langwood Property,) Vir- ginia Wood, (the Ravine.) Saddleback Hill, Whip Hill, and the way to Mel- rose Highlands. Distance, about five miles. The Middlesex Fells Reservation lies within the limits of Maiden, Melrose, Medford, Stoneham, and Winchester, and embraces the region known from Colonial days as "The Five Mile Woods." Its present name was adopted at the suggestion of Mr. Sylvester Baxter, one of the earliest advocates of its preservation and setting apart as a public forest park, and whose graceful pen was most effective in securing this result. The larger part of the terri- tory was acquired by the Metropolitan Park Commissioners in February, 48 MIDDLESEX FELLS. 1894, and by later takings the domain has been increased to its present dimensions of 11G3.11 acres. The holdings by the water boards of Medford, Maiden, Melrose and Winchester, which municipalities draw their water supply from its valleys (the first three named using Spot Pond), amounting to about 1600 acres, are also in the care of the Metropolitan Commission though not formally transferred to it. As described by the landscape architects employed by the Commissioners, the reservation consists essen- tially of a broad plateau thrust southward from Stoneham between the valleys of the Aberjona and Maiden Rivers, the sui'face of which is min- utely broken into many comparatively small hills, bowls, and vales. Bear's Den in Maiden, and Pine Hill in Medford, both less than 5J miles dis- tant from the State House, form the two southernmost corners of the reserva- tion. It includes much charming woodland, ragged cliffs, picturesque crags, ponds, and pools, and in its landscape are mingled many types of scenery. " Here is a cliff and a cascade, here a pool, pond or stream, here a surprising glimpse of a fragment of the ocean, or again a faint blue vision of a far distant mountain." The commission in charge has improved the old roads through the preserve and constructed new ones, opened up bridle paths, linked together old wood paths, and slightly defined new ones, but in all this work has endeavored carefully to preserve in the greatest degree its natural wildness. A few hitching-places for horses, and stands for bicycles have been provided, and more will be added ; and ultimately it is hoped occasional refectories will be established, for at present there is no place within the entire domain where lunch or refreshment of any sort — beyond the waters of the springs — can be obtained. A system of Metropolitan Parkways directly connecting the Fells with the surrounding municipalities is devised, and at the present time two of these are in part under construc- tion ; a section of the Fells Parkway connecting Bear's Den Hill and Pine Hill, the cityward terminus of which is ultimately to be Broadway Park, foot of Winter Hill, Somerville : and the Mystic Valley Pai'kway in West Medford and Winchester. Walk a. The lower Melrose Entrance, or as we call it the Cascade Entrance, is close by the Fells Station, near the Maiden bomidary line, and within ten minutes' walk of Main Street from Maiden, over which the electric car line out from Boston passes. This is a natural entrance, between two bold ele- vations — Black Rock (243 feet) and White Rock, of a nearly- equal altitude — the " Twin Sentinels," as they have been called, — rising abruptly above the valley on either side of the steep and narrow passage thick with trees ; and is to be made only by foot passers. The carriage approach at this point is by Washington Street (a thoroughfare from Maiden west of the railroad) skirting White Rock, the further of the "Twin Sentinels," and entering beyond at the top of the hill. If we go out by steam car we take the road just above Fells station west of the track, by the side of the extensive build- ings of the Boston Rubber Works, turn into Washington Street at the right, and a few rods beyond the Converse School-house, strike the wood paths at the left, and so enter by way of Cascade Rocks on Black Rock side. If we make the outward trip by electric car, we leave the car on Main Street at the Pine Banks nearly opposite the upper entrance to this beautiful park [see Walk No. 7] and take the street to the left, by the side of the old MIDDLESEX FELLS. 49 Lyncle house [see same walk] , which leads down to the railroad, and across the track to the road from Fells station. The fields on either side of the short way from Main Street to the railroad are remnants of meadows of the old Lynde farm which once spread the full length of this long valley. ^•>V #^- ^ -, The Twin Sentinels. Of the several entrances to the reservation this is the wildest and in some respects most striking. Between the slopes of the " Twin Sentinels " is the beautiful Cascade, or series of cas- cades, in which Shilly Shally Brook falls from the precipitous ledges above, over masses of picturesque rocks fringed with pine trees, and clusters of flowers and ferns ; and from the hillsides as we ascend vistas open through the woods, often of extreme beauty. The cascades are seen to the best advantage in the springtime or late autumn, when the hill streams are full, and the waters dash and bound down the rocky way ; but they are not without many, if gentler, charms in the drier midsummer season. We reach the Cascade Rocks by a path along the base and north slope of Black Rock, and as we approach the cliffs, bear around to the left, push along the foot-path in this direction a short distance, then turn sharply to the right, and soon, by a scramble up the rough natural steps in the bush-clad steep at the right, ascend to Black Rock tip. Here we have our first full view of the valley from which we entered, with Melrose town to the north of us. Maiden to the south, over the valley the hills on either side of Pine Banks, Revere and the waters beyond, and back of us the Fells mlderness. From this point our walk continues direct south, then west, with Shilly Shally Brook at the right of us. Then crossing the brook the path we follow bears northward, and then eastward, to 50 MIDDLESEX FELLS. Cairn Hill (300 feet). This hill is the culmination of the largest area of continuously high land in the Fells, nearly a square mile in extent, which Professor William O. Crosby, the geologist, refers to in his " Notes on the Geology of the Reservations," as " a singu- larly well-preserved portion of the original peneplane " bordering the Boston Basin on every landward side ; and from its summit of heaped-up small stones we have an interesting view of consid- ■A •nsv j:,i,_ ^^,^%gy £-# The Cairu. arable extent and variety. Leaving the Cairn on the north side, and threading the path bearing slightly northward, then toward the southwest, the next feature reached is Hemlock Pool, a beau- tifvil sheet of water with fringe of fine hemlocks, and deciduous trees all about it. This is an interesting region, especially for the botanist. Taking now the carriage-road striking northward, an eighth of a mile beyond Hemlock Pool, we round Shiner Pool on our left, and, bearing westward, then northwestward, come out on Woodland Road, the main thoroughfare between Maiden and Medford roads entering this side of the Fells from the south, and Wyoming Avenue at the north. Shiner Pool is a pretty little pond formed by the excavation of muck and by damming. Near by, to the north of this pool, are fine old white pines with tall shafts, and nearer Woodland Road, a grove of pines which forms an important element of the landscape as viewed from the south- ern hills. From Woodland Road our course is westward along the south- ern shore of Spot Pond under noble hemlocks and pines, to Forest Street, the main highway through the heart of the Fells between Medford and Stoneham. This fine pond-side grove is most attractive to picnic parties, and several distinct groups are often met in the long walk thi'ough it, enjojang its kindly shade and pleasant surroundings. One of the fairest views up the pond .}fIDDLESEX FELLH. ol is from Pickerel Rock, a short distance beyond the Medford Pump. Turning near the end of the pond side toward the south, we strike Forest Street upon a curve, and crossing the street enter a cart-road leading- west and southwest toward the Spring by the Old Silver Mine ruin. The "mine" is worth a brief visit, but more interesting is Silver Mine Hill, to the south, for the fine view to the northward which it affords. The hill is of the ridge separating the eastern and western north-south valleys, beginning at Pine Hill at the extreme south, and culminating in Bear Hill at the north. Spot Pond. Returning to the Spring we take the path west of the Silver Mine and follow it to East Dam on the South Reservoir (Win- chester Water Works), and thence continue directly south. On the east, some way below East Dam, we have "Wenepoykin Hill, beyond which is probably the most interesting region of limited extent in the Fells. This is bounded north by the hill. Straight Gully Brook on the south, and Intervale Brook on the west, and embraces Panther Cave, Cudjo's Cave, Flagg's, Owen's, and Quarry AValks, Wright's Pines, and Pine Hill, which are covered in our Walk b. Southwest of Wenepoykin Hill is an interesting short cut between ledges. The flora of this region is a very rich one. We leave the reservation in the neighborhood of Straight Gully Brook and end our walk through a long lane-like rural way, west of and nearly parallel with Forest Street, which brings us ulti- mately to High Street, from which, turning to the left, we reach Medford Square, and the electric cars or steam car station for the return trip. o2 MIDDLESEX EELLS. Walk b. The Medford Entrances are by way of Forest Street, one of the finest of avenues in the neighborhood of Boston [see Wiilk No. 14]. beginning at Medford Square where the electric cars from Boston torn, and "vvithin a few steps of the steam rail- way station, and continuing through the Fells to Stoneham ; or by Fulton Street, leading from Salem Street, which starts out from Medford Square, to Woodland Koad and the sections south and east of Spot Pond. We enter for our Fells walk from south to east, by the Forest Street way. about one mile beyond Medford Square, turning from the street at the left, fixst to cover Pine Hill (24<) feet) the southmost point of the reservation. As we near the Pine Hill gateway the street begins an easy ascent, narrows slightly, and curves gracefully to the right, becoming more rural as it proceeds, and its side trees more varied. We note along this part some noble ash and fijie sycamore trees, with the elm which characterizes the road from the square. Charming views please the eye on every side and at every turn. The entranc-e to the Pine Hill region, marked by the familiar sign-board of the reservation, is found at the second turn at the left beyond the curve in the street, by a lane bordered by shrubs and vines along the hill-side. Bearing around shortly, to the northwest, the path ehmbs the bill over the westerly side, to a fork where, taking the right turn, it strikes a narrower path which leads up to the summit. This is a group of rooks, the topmost long familiar to old Medfordians as "Lover's Eock." '"one of those register- surfaces," as the first historian of Medford described it, '"where a young gentleman, with a hammer and nail, could engrave the initials of two names provokingly near together." The diversified view which here "fills the eye with pleasure and the mind with thought." includes, to the south and east, a good part of " Greater Boston." the harbor and islands, and over the city proper the Blue HiUs with the observatory on the Great Blue plainly visible : to the westward, the h\}\9. of Arlington and Lexington ; and north and northwest the vast expanse of woodland embraced within the Fells. Below us the Mystic coursing through its broad marshes appears in full outline, and in the mass of cities and towns beyond, familiar features are clearly discerned. — the towers of the Old South Church and of Trinity, the State Hotise Dome, the tower- ing Ames and Exchange buildings above the house-tops of the city proper ; the Soldiers' Home in Chelsea ; Bnnker Hill Monu- ment; Memorial Hall, Cambridge. The finest groups of pines which gave the name to this eminence are along its westerly ridge and slox)e. The bill was once covered, the historian Brooks tells OS, with as dense a forest as the thin soil of its rocky surfaces MIDDLESEX FELLS. 53 could sustain, but in quite early times the wood was burned off : and later, in 1775-76. when the American Armv was stationed in the neighborhood of Medford. the renewed growth was cut off. in part, for its supply. Afttr that the forest grew up. and in the forties was thick woods again, but in the early fifties the whole hill was denuded and, as Brooks says. "* much of its poetry lost,*' adding quaintly. '" the earth looks best with its beard," In later years the growth was again renewed. From Pine Hill our way lies in the northerly direction, or north by east, through picturesque parts of the woodlands, back to Forest Street, about half a mile abore the point at which we started, and across the street to a roadway leading around the lower end of Wright's Pond near by. The most direct way is through the bushes, regardless of p>aths. down into the valley and through "Wright's Pines named for EUzur Wright, of Medford. who did much for the establishment of the Fells about midway orer ; but as the chances of getting lost by this route are more than even, and the way by paths being far prettier, it would be better to foUow Quarry Path, the old road around the hill which skirts the west side and continues on toward Forest Street, taking the west side of the Pines where it becomes Owen's Walk (named for John Owen, hn^rateur of Cambridge, whose favorite walk it was . This road is reached from the north side of the summit by foot-paths fairly well marked bearing to the westward, We can follow it to the second fork beyond the Pines and there take the right turn, which brings us out into the street neaziy opposite the part of Wright's Pond region for which we are aJTning ; or at the first fork by the F'ines take the right path, which leads into the brook valley, and curves around in the direc- tion of the old road again, to a path connecting with and crossing that, from the second fork to Forest Street, The path just men- tioned leads westward to the lovely Flagg's Walk for Wilson Flagg. the naturalist '. The walks along Owen's Walk, through Wright's Pines, and along Flagg's Walk are among the lovehest and richest in any of the reservations of the Metropolitan district. This section. Mr. Wai^ ren H. Manning suggested, wotdd fittingly commemorate the ser- vices of those three grand old men who labored so earnestly and unselfishly to preserve the Fells, but who all passed away before the result was accomplished. Taking Owen's "Walk from the beginning at the southwest base of the hill, we pass the best group of native sugar maples, and the finest grove of beeches, in the res- ervation, then go by an interesting old quarry in which there is a fine spring, thence through a wood road OTerarehed with a great 54 MIDDLESEX FELLS. varietj'^ of splendid trees, thence past a profile rock, and so into Flagg's "Walk, which borders a beautiful glade, also overarched with many fine trees, among which the yellow birch takes a con- spicuous place. Other varieties of trees in this enchanting region are the locust, red oak, black oak, elm, willow, hemlock, poplar, of large size and in finer specimens than are usually found. The region is also rich in ferns. Entering the Wright's Pond region, and crossing the cleared tract on the southeast side, our course now lies through the brush and small woods in a northerly then easterly direction toward Spot Pond. We are to follow the path, but vaguely outlined, over the aqueduct of the Medford Water Works, our best guide line being the telegraph overhead. In the wet run which we cross on the way note the interesting colony of swamp white oak, a larger number here grouped than elsewhere in the Fells. As the Medford Pump, on the southern cove of the pond, appears in sight, we turn sharply to the right into a lovely stretch of woods, oak and pine predominating, and shortly come out on Woodland Road near the old-fashioned stone mansion-houses originally built by the Copelands, for many years well-known confectioners in Boston. Along our way we get fair glimpses of the fine group of very large white pines and hemlocks bordering the south shore of the pond, which is a notable element of the landscape in the view, from many points. A short walk over Woodland Road, which here follows the southeast bank of the pond, with its attractive estates, brings us to the Langwood.Hotel grounds, on the right. Here let us pause a moment to enjoy the extensive view over the jDond at our left, and the charming surroundings of this beautifully placed wood- land inn. We may continue along Woodland Road to the Ravine Road opening from it a little way beyond the Langwood estate, at the right : or cross the Langwood estate to the back of the inn, thence enter the Ravine Road, and cross to the Virginia Wood. The Ravine Road extends in graceful curves from Woodland Road east to Wyoming Avenue, beyond the Fells line, a distance of about three quarters of a mile, with the Virginia Wood lying along its northern border. In a region of evergreen, with mag- nificent pines and hemlock, their branches occasionally meeting high above the roadway, and yet rich in sylvan scenery, it is one of the most delightful rural roads of the northern suburbs ; and before the ruthless tree-cutter had swung his devastating axe into its hillside groves, it was distinguished as the " grandest in the vicinage of Boston." The beautiful tract of the Virginia Wood, however, called by experts one of the best gloves of pines and MIDDLESEX FELLS. 55 hemlocks near Boston, remains intact ; and its preservation for public uses is due to the generous act of its former owner, Mrs. Fanny Foster Tudor, who transferred it to the care of the Trus- tees of Public Reservations. The name of " Virginia" was given it in memory of Mrs. Tudor's daughter Virginia, Instead of following the Ravine Road through to Wyoming Avenue, we shall find it a pleasant short cross walk along Washington Street, taking the left turn, over to Wyoming Avenue at the junction of the latter with Pond Street. From the corner along Wyoming Avenue to the Wyoming station, whence we return to town, is a walk of about three quarters of a mile. Walk c. The Winchester Entrance is within ten minutes' walk of the railway station in Winchester by way of Pleasant Street, — the first street above at the right, across the tracks, — and Mt. Vernon Street, the right of the fork just beyond the handsome Town-hall and Library. [See Walk No. 18.] This is the direct way, especially for carriages ; but the walker had better make the approach a little higher Tip, taking Washington Street, the left of the fork ; following Washington to Webster Street, the third opening on the right ; and Webster Street, cross- ing Highland Avenue, to the wagon-road opposite, which bearing to the left leads to one of the prettiest of the entrance-paths here. This shall be our way. The path upon which we enter leaves the wagon-road at the right, and makes up the steep hill. Bearing to the right, and then to the left, we shortly come to a ledge, south of Squaw Sachem Rock, the first '' outlook "on the route. From this ledge is outspread a full view of the lovely Mystic Valley, of town and village, backed by hills against the distant horizon, the gray outline of far away Wachusett appearing to the right. Looking from left to right we see all of Winchester with the line of the Aberjona River and the ponds beyond, further toward the right, Woburn, and at the extreme right, Wakefield. Continu- ing from the ledge by the path which strikes out in a southerly direction, Ave shortly reach Cranberry Pool, formerly a bog-hole, now a serene, almost somber, piece of water bordered by small woodlands. It was created a few years ago by placing a dam across its outlet, and was called Cranberry Pool on the Commis- sioner's map because of the abundance of cranberries which were formerly found on it. At the first fork in the path beyond, we take the left, with the pond on our right, and following this mossy way, down the hill and straight ahead, we soon reach a wood road, into which we turn sharply to the right, continue along to the fork, here take the left turn, and so on to the second fork, 56 MIDDLESEX FELLS. beyond wliich, to the riglit, appears the Observatory or Tower. Taking the left turn we soon come to a foot-path which followed leads to the Tower. This was for a while after the Fells had be- come a reservation closed to the public because unsafe : but it has since been strengthened and is now in satisfactory condition. The view from the top embraces, in the northeast and south fore- ground, the picturesque "Winchester Reservoirs constructed from ancient Turkey Swamp, once a meeting-place for many varieties of birds, and a favorite hunting-ground for local sportsmen : in the distance to the northeast, Lynn ; eastward, Boston Harbor ; south- east, the range of Blue Hills ; the near northwest, Horn Pond and Mt. Misery, Woburn ; and southward, the mass of Fells woods. From this point our walk continues over to the Causeway be- tween the Middle and South (Winchester) Reservoirs, through one of the loveliest of the many lovely regions of this reserva- tion. Taking the wood path making off in a southeasterly direc- tion, we enter the white and red oak woods which extend over quite an extent of territory. Keeping this path for about half a mile we come at length to the open, at the right, where the car- riage-roads meet, — the main road being that from the Winchester Entrance at Mt. Vernon Street, and the other, coming from the West Dam further south, there connecting with Governor Avenue, or Rural Lane, which leads from West Medford. Along the way through the oak woods, we pass Nanepashemet Hill (295 feet) at the right, about midway from the Tower to the open : and near the latter, also at the right, a path leads to a cliff which affords a pleasant view over the South Reservoir and the opposite peninsula, with the Causeway at the left. If one is thirsty, it is but a short distance to Molly's and Indian Springs on the car- riage road to the right. Molly's Spring, the nearest to the road, was named for Molly Connors, an elderly daughter of Erin, who for some time lived alone in a hut by its side and demanded tri- bute from those who partook of its cool waters. About and near Molly's Spring are fine pines, birches, and maples which are in themselves well worth a visit. From the open we follow the carriage-road to the left, over the Causeway, passing Basswood Shore, so called because it is one of the few localities in the reservation where the basswood tree grows, and northward for about a mile, to Bear Hill (320 feet). This is the highest point in the Fells, and embraces Governor Winthrop's his- toric Cheese Rock, distant about two miles by the carriage-road from Winchester station, or three miles by the way we have come. The road runs along the shores of the reservoirs for the greater part of the distance, crossing Little Neck between South and MIDDLESEX FELLS. 57 Middle Reservoirs, with Old Tony's Ledge to the right, and Hannah Shiner's Ledge further over, thence over Great Neck between Middle and North Reservoirs, bearing at this point to the right, and then beyond North Reservoir following Dike's Brook ; with thick woodland and frequent heights on the opposite side. On the brink of Middle Reservoir near Little Neck, when this was Tvirkey Swamp, was the hut of Hannah Shiner, the last Indian who lived within the reservation. She was an herb-gatherer, a basket-weaver, and " a lover of rum," and lived here some years with " Old Tony," whom the historian Brooks called " a noble-souled mulatto man, ' ' and a little dog her constant compan- ion. Hence the name of the ledges near this spot. Between Little and Great Necks and about Great Neck is Spring Pas- ture, named after one Spring who was settled here with the Parkers, Hunts, Holdens, and others at a quite early date. There are evidences of an ancient settlement, in the old cellars and walls still to be seen in the neighborhood : and we are told that the old Provence rose clung about the Parker house-site up to within a few years. The carriage-road between these Necks passes along the old road from Stoneham to Medford, the first road in this region, over which great quantities of shijj-timber were in ship- building days teamed from the Fells to Medford ship-yards. For a part of its length the old road is covered by the South Reser- voir, but at the East Dam it again appears and runs into Rural Lane toward West Medford. The old road is also used along Dike's Brook at the north, and a piece of it is also here covered by the east bay in the North Reservoir. At this point a stretch of corduroy was dug up when the reservoir was constructed. This whole section is full of interest to the student of local history. The road branching off to the right from the triangle near by the Hannah Shiner's Ledge leads over to Forest Street, the main road cutting through the heart of the Fells between Medford and Stoneham, by Spot Pond. About a quarter of a mile beyond Great Neck, another road branches to the right, which also leads to Forest Street, skirting "Winthrop's Hill (formerly Taylor's Moun- tain), the elevation at the right of our road, on the way. Soon after passing this branch road. Bear Hill looms up before us, dis- tinguished by the State flag flying above the trees. A walk of about a third of a mile beyond the North Reservoir, in part through cultivated fields, brings us to the path up the hill. The ascent has been made easy by the well constructed roads, for car- riages, bicycles, and walkers, and on the plateau of the summit a good place for hitching horses has been provided by the Com- missioners. Li the cedar groves covering the hill top are also pleasant picnic grounds. 58 MIDDLESEX FELLS As we ascend the hill the prospect broadens, and as the summit is approached becomes iiiagnificent ; but its full glory is only to be seen from the top of the Observatory on the summit, the erec- Observatorv, Bear Hill. tion of which was the work of the Appalachian Mountain Club before the Fells as now constituted became pubUc ground. It is a view not unsurpassed, as some critics have observed, in east- ern Massachusetts, — for the country round about Boston, as we have seen, or shall see, in making the circuit, abounds in magnifi- cent views from its higher elevations. — but one to be ranked with the richest. Taking it in detail, with the Blue Hills at the south, rising over and beyond Somerville and Cambridge, as the starting point : we have College Hill and the group of Tufts CoUege build- ings to the right with South Reservoir fringed with woods seem- ingly just below it. and ArUngton and Arlington Heights beyond ; turning toward the southwest. Wellesley Hills across the reserva- tion with North Reservoir in the near foreground and the other MIDDLESEX FELLS. 59 observatory a conspicuous object ; Winchester and the hills beyond to the west., \rith the pumping station of North Reservoir just over the pastures below us ; following further to the right. Wachusett in the distance ; still more to the right. Wobum. with several peaks in Xew Hampshire rising above the stretch of woodland, dotted with houses here and there over cultivated fields, in the foreground below ; to the north. Reading, the standpipe and church spires of the village of Stoneham occupying the " goodly plain" of Winthrop pasture, appearing in line to the northeast; Danvers Insane Asylum conspicuous among the hills further along in the circuit ; easterhj. over Doleful Pond and Melrose woodlands, LjTin and the open ocean beyond Xahant ; toward the southeast, with Spot Pond in the foreground, the Langwood Hotel on the opposite shore and the green mass of Virginia Wood. Maiden and its neighboring cities with the expanse of water beyond ; south- east, the twisting Mystic. Bunker Hill Monument. Boston State House, the Harbor, and Bay. with Boston Light plainly visible in clear atmosphere ; and back to our starting point, Winthrop Hill in the near foreground, with the splendid sweep of Fells forest. Cheese Rock, where Grovernor Winthrop and his little explor- ing party on a February day of 1632 rested and lunched, and which with this hill was so named by them "because when they went to eat somewhat they had only cheese, the Governor's man forgetting for haste to put up some bread." lies close to the Ob- servatory, north. The party had come to this hill, or, as Win- throp expressed it. '" to the top of a very high rock." from Spot Pond which they had discovered and named. — "a very great pond having in the midst an island of about an acre, and very thick with trees of pine and beach " and with "divers small rocks standing up here and there in it. which they therefore called Spot Pond " — and had gone '" all about it on the ice." They found the prospect fair, though not distant, for it was at that time "close and rainy," and the country round about was then an " uncouth wilderness full of timber ; " but they observed beneath the rock " a goodly plain," where now, as we have seen, is Stone- ham town, "part open land and part woody." They had come over from "Mistic River at Medford . . . N. and by E. among the rocks about two or three miles'' to the "very great pond," and we may fancy that they came into the Fells by Rural Lane, and were turned east by Turkey Swamp. The name by which the hill now goes, we are told. " origrinated with one of the early settlers who had an unpleasant meeting with a bear," on the hill pasture, ''when looking for his cow." Clearings were early made in this neighborhood, and on the south slope of the hill was 60 MIDDLESEX FELLS. probably the first house in Stonehara, built by Richard Holden in or about the year 1640. On this slope appear the bayberry, lamb- kill and privet, barberry and buckthorn, a marked example, Mr. Warren H. Manning observes in his " Notes on the vegetation of the reservations" [Commissioners' Report 1895], of the presence of these introduced plants on the site of old habitations. Where v^ ; J'^A Roadway, Middlesex FeUs. a large colony of old plants of two or more of these varieties ap- pears, he remarks, it is reasonably safe to assume that there was a settlement of some kind. About half way down the hill on the southwest side. Cedar Spring, delightfully situated, is a spring of the purest water. We leave Bear Hill by the northeast side and make our way down the picturesque paths coming out on Forest Street, or Main Street, Stoneham, as this thoroughfare has now become — the dividing line between Medford and Stoneham passing by the south end of Spot Pond. Taking Main Street at the left, to South Street, we follow the latter in the direction of Melrose, with Doleful Pond beyond on the left. Reaching Pond Street we may strike into the northeastern section of the reservation at a point a few paces this side of the headquarters farm opposite, by a cart road leading to a long stretch of rolling pasture-land made picturesque by scat- tering evergreens and a sparkling pool. By this way we follow the right side of the pasture, skirt the southern side of a swamp at MIDDLESEX FELLS. 61 its northerly end till we come in sight of the boundary line of the reservation, then proceed for half a niile along the boundary line in a southeasterly direction, passing through rough woods, to a path making toward Emerson Street, in Melrose, where the town is entered within a short walk of Melrose station. Or, if Ave prefer, we may continue along Pond Street in a southerly then easterly direction, past Old Pepe's Cove (named after " Old Pepe " Gould, a blind man who lived with his daughter in an old house near by, of which only the cellar remains), through Virginia Wood to Wyo- ming Avenue, and thence to Wyoming station. It would be still more interesting to go as far south as Spot Pond Brook, the out- let of the Pond, on Woodland Road, which opens from Wyoming Avenue by Old Pepe's Cove, and walk through the heart of Vir- ginia Wood, along the banks of the stream past the site of the old mill, joining Wyoming Avenue further on, by its junction with Washington Street. Another portion of the Virginia Wood is traversed in Walk b. Walk d. The Maiden Entrance, by way of Fellsway East from Pleasant Street, is about a mile and one half from the Maiden station [B. & M,] ; by way of cross streets and the Boundary Road, about three quarters of a mile from the Oak Grove station. Three quarters of a mile of the distance from the Maiden station is the stretch of Pleasant Street between the station and Fellsway East, which may be covered by electric car (Medford line going west). Pleasant Street is the thoroughfare crossing the track a few rods south of the station. If it is not cared to take the full length of Fellsway East from the Pleasant Street junction a cross cut may be made through Summer Street (north of the station) and Maple Street from the left of Summer, to a point just above Fellsmere Park. But by this way a pleasant section will be missed : and the distance is not materially shortened. Fellsmere is a local Maiden park notable for its woods, landscape features, and lakelet. Fellsway East passes on the right side of Fellsmere, fringed by noble trees, cuts through rocky ledges, and sweeps onward in broad curves opening picturesque vistas. About three quarters of a mile out from Pleasant Street it crosses Highland Avenue, which leads to the left in the direction of the southern Spot Pond region. Next it joins the Fells Boundary Road, and, crossing, finishes in Jerry Jingle Notch, From this entrance point the now well known features of this section of the Fells — Bear's Den, Boojura Rock, and Pinnacle Rock — are within "easy reach, the first two at the left, or west of the notch road, bemg nearest, and the latter more distant, to the east. The Bear's Den path opens just beyond the notch road entrance. 62 MIDDLESEX FELLS. near the granite bound-post, marking the line between Maiden and Melrose which we see tlirough the trees on the hill-slope. Instead of entering this path at once, we proceed a little further along the winding road, noting the rich growths in the dell, on the right side, and then plunge into the woods at the left toward the cliff back from the road, beyond which is Boojum Rock. There is a path here, but it is slightly defined : still, whether we keep to it or not, we cannot go far astray, for the cliff is in plain sight among the trees. Scrambling to the top of it we have a pretty view south- ward, through the tree openings, of Boston and the background of Blue Hills, while immediately below, in the foreground, the wind- ing line of the parkway through which we have come is dis- closed. But this view is not to be compared with the prospect from the higher cliff of Boojum Rock, a stone's throw to the westward. The way across is a little rough and pathless, but by winding along the rocky slope, and in a roundabout course through bush and tangled undergrowth, we may make it comfortably. The mount of Boojum Rock is easiest made along the southwest side. A sharp scramble up brings us to a fairly smooth summit and a fine vantage ground for the view. Facing south, as f i-om the lower rock, we have as before, over the Mystic marshes, but in fuller sweep, Boston with the full line of Blue Hills on the horizon : following to the right, from south to west, Parker Hill, in the Roxbury district, Corey Hill, the hills of Brighton and Brookline, College Hill, more in the foreground, with the chapel tower and the college buildings in fine relief, Watertown and Belmont Hills, Arlington Heights, beyond, and slightly to the left of the Heights, the dome- like mound of Prospect Hill, in Waltham : west, the stretch of Fells woods toward the Winchester side : northerly, a mass of woods shutting off the distant view : easterly, the thickly built village of Wyoming in a frame of trees ; to the right of the Button observatory, Nahant and the ocean : northeasterly, Orient Heights, Winthrop, and Boston Harbor. We strike down on the south side of the rock, and a few minutes bring us in sight of the Bear's Den path from the notch road, run- ning along the hill-slope below. Now joining this path we swing round toward the front of Bear's Den, getting a good view up the hill of the picturesque cliff, or series of rocks piled upon each other, with the crevice at its base marking the opening of the Den. The well beaten path bends round to the northwest, next passing the front of Boojum Rock, and we follow it to this point, here taking the path to the left, which is ultimately to be broadened into the Boundary Road. We have now a pleasant walk before us through the " fire guard." an open, which the engineers of the park com- MIDDLESEX FELLS. G3 niissioners have cut out to cheek the spread of wood fires. It is a region of luxuriant undergrowth and bush, with fair woods on either side. We proceed along the path, now broad and well worn, now narrowing through bush and shrub, with mossy turf, to the first fork where we take the right turn, the left making a loop toward Highland Avenue. Passing through an opening in a stone wall our winding path enters the woods and gradually ascends higher ground. At the first fork we keep to the right (the left path goes westerly over toward Interval Brook). Hereabouts the trees are exceptionally fine : at the fork a noble specimen of the yellow birch, and, in neighboring groups, the red maple and the red oak. We are now tending toward Hemlock Pool. Through the woods to our left runs a valley brook. Our path goes on up and down, bearing to the left at the next fork, alongside of masses of fruitful huckleberry and blackberry bushes. We reach the pleasant pool on its southwestern side, and tarry here a moment in enjoy- ment of the sylvan scenery in which it is set. Following our path a little way further, we emerge upon the roadway. We have covered to this point about half a mile from Bear's Den. Now we keep to the picturesque road, northward, until we come to the bend by Shiner Fool, an eighth of a mile or so beyond, on the left, where we leave the road and strike into the broad wood path opening at the right, opposite the pool. This path leads through another pleasant region toward the Langwood Hotel estate. As we approach the hotel grounds, we turn to the right, cross the open field, and enter the picnic grove on the further side, through which, bearing to the left, we reach the cart road running across these grounds. In the extended view to the right of the cart road we see in the distance the Danvers Hospital appearing like a line of toy houses. A few minutes' walk brings us to the end of this road, where we bear ninety degrees to the left and then shortly the same distance to the right. Passing the stable in the rear of the hotel we continue in the same direction down a foot-path to a junction in the road. To the right the Ravine Road leads through the famous drive l)etween stately evergreens to Wyoming Avenue and Wyoming. A bridle path also leads from this junction into the Virginia Wood, which, followed, woijld take us through to the old Mill site. But our pleasant pilgrimage is toward the northwest, and we accord- ingly take the right fork of the road. This brings us shortly into Woodland Road just above the Maiden puraping-station. We may well linger here a bit and feast our eyes on the beauty of Spot Pond as it stretches to the west and south with gentle grassy mead- 64 MIDDLESEX FELLS. ows and abrupt wooded slopes rising beyond. We have turned to the right and are now on Woodland Road with the pond on our left. Soon we reach the junction of Woodland Road and Pond Street. Here at the head of Old Pepe's Cove was in years past the headquarters for boating on the pond, a popular pastime until the water board issued its mandate against it. And now, the Spot Pond Spa, which survived the decrease of boating, and, with dance- hall attachment, furnished a wayside resting-place for wheelmen, has also succumbed to State authority and faded away. This junction is one mile from Wyoming, and, by the paths which we have followed, about three quarters of a mile from Hemlock Pool. Down Pond Street there is a delightful short walk to a spring in an attractive dell surrounded by fine specimens of white pine, which completely shut out the sun's rays. Suppose we take it as a " by- walk." The trail is along Pond Street a few hundred yards toward Wyoming and then over a cart path opening at the left direct to the spring, hardly an eighth of a mile distant. Returning to the junction we now take a foot-path leading up through the trees, on the north of Pond Street. A short scramble brings us to a higher level. Following the path around to the left, alongside of a fine growth of young hickory on the right, then, just before reaching a broader path, turning to the left and breaking through the under- brush, we come out upon a ledge where we are rewarded with a prospect of much beauty. As a point of view of Spot Pond this has scarcely an equal, for though we are high above the surface of the water we seem quite near to it, and can follow its numerous bays and inlets with the spectacle of the hills beyond. This ledge can be reached direct from Pond Street below. Going back to the point at which we left the path, we take the right hand turn at the fork which winds through a scattering growth of young trees and bushes. We pass two branch paths on the right, and then proceed onward through the sag between Wamoset Hill and "Whip Hill. On our right is a dense tliicket of undergrowth, the successor of heavy growth which was cut off a few years ago. Just before we reach the northerly end of the sag we come to a four-corner junction of paths. To climb Whip Hill we must take the path leading back to the westward. It is less than a quarter of a mile by this way to the top of the hill. The last half of the distance must be traversed without path and through thick growth until the ledge of the summit is attained. The interest of the view centres mostly in the wilderness of the surrounding woods. This is an unfrequented retreat, and by a de- scent of the steep face of the rock to the southward one may plunge suddenly into as wild a thicket of undisturbed brush and bramble as the most ardent lover of nature could desire. MIDDLESEX FELLS. 65 Back to the f our-tined fork we bear off to the right and follow the boundary of the reservation for a little way to another cross path which, bearing to the left, leads outside the Fells. At this point we are over half a mile from Woodland Road by Spot Pond where we lingered, and nearly a mile from Melrose Highlands, the end of our walk. Taking the right fork a little way beyond the cross path, we follow the path leading in the same direction to Per- kins Street which (to the left) leads to the electric cars, connecting with Boston lines, a short half mile off. To reach Melrose High- lands we take the first turn from Perkins Street on the right, follow the latter road to Franklin Street, and thence to the Melrose- Highlands station. Charlestown and Somerville. Scollay Square to the Navy Yard, by electric car, 1| miles ; fare, 5 cents. Charlestown Neck to Davis Square, Somerville, 3 miles ; fare, 5 ceuts. Walk a [No. 12]. Embraces the Navy Yard, Bunker Hill Monument grounds, the old graveyard with the John Harvard monument, and Charles- town Heights. Walk b [No. 13]. In Somerville ; includes a tour over Prospect Hill ; Cen- tral Hill : site of the "French Redoubt" of 1775; headquarters of General Lee ; West Somerville ; Nathan Tufts Park and the Old Powder House ; Tufts College grounds and a willow lane. Charlestown was settled in 1629 by men from Endicott's colony at Salem. As to the exact date of settlement authorities differ, but Frothingham, the liistorian of Charlestown, fixes it at July 4, 1G29. The first white settler was Thomas Walford, blacksmith, one of the Robert Gorges colonists, here per- haps as early as 1623. Tlie regular settlement was begun by Thomas Greaves and the Rev. Francis Briglit with a small company. A few months before, the brothers Ralph, Richard, and William Sprague, on an expedition from Salem, had "lighted on a place situate and lyelng to the north side of the Charles River," by the natives called " Mishawum," which is presumed to have been this place, and they agreed, with the approbation of Endicott, that it should "henceforth, from the name of the river, be called Charles Town." Tlie settlement was hastened by Endicott under instructions from the Massa- chusetts Company in England " the better to strengthen our possession there against all or any that shall intrude upon us," conflicts having arisen over rights in the region through too free giving of grants by the English compa- nies. Winthrop's company coming in 1G30 first selected Charlestown for the chief place of settlement, but after a season of much suffering the dispersion of the colonists took place, the larger number moving across tlie river and founding Boston. Charlestown originally embraced a far-reaching territory, including what are now the cities of Maiden, Everett, Woburn, and Som- erville, the towns of Melrose, Reading, Wakefield, Stoncham, Burlington, Winchester, and parts of Medford, Arlington, Cambridge, and Lexington. At the time of the Revolution it retained of this outlying territory only what is now Somerville. When it became a city [1847] it had lost this part also. It now contains but 586 acres. It was annexed to Boston in 1872, and then became the Charlestown District. In the burning of the town during the Battle of Bunker Hill nearlj- all of its four hundred houses and buildings were destroyed. The Navy Yard was established here in 1800. Bunker Hill monument was begun in 1825, and completed in 1842. On the occasion of the laying of the corner-stone, when Lafayette assisted, and again at the dedication of the finished work, Webster was the orator. In the ancient burylng-ground is the monument in memory of John Harvard, for whom Harvard College was named. Of the distinguished natives of the town was Samuel F. B. Morse, the Inventor of the magneto-electric telegraph, son of the equally distinguished Rev. Jededlah Morse, minister of tlie First Church, who has been called the " father of American geography." Time was when Charlestown was an important town, with "large and elegant buildings;" but since annexation to Boston it has lost, with its individuality, most of its "elegance," and its attractions, certainly to strangers, are now mostly con- fined to its historic features. It yet, however, retains a number of comforta- ble estates occui>ied by old families identified with the earlier town-life, a few pleasant tree-bordered streets, and here and there a landmark of passing interest. Somerville was set off from Charlestown and made an independent town March 3, 1842. It then had a population of about 1000, and was a pleasant rural place largelj' of milk and general farms. It was made a city in 1872, when its inhabitants numbered 16,000, taking rank as one of the largest of the suburban municipalities. Witliln its limits are Prospect and Winter Hills which the Americans fortified at the beginning of the Revolution, the Ten CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 67 Hills Farm of Governor Winthrop [see Walk No. 14], and the Old Powder House, earlier a windmill, dating from about 1700 ; and on its northern border are the grounds of Tufts College. It covers four .square miles of territory. The name of Sonierville has no special significance. It was first proposed to call the town Warren for General Joseph Warren, or Walford for the first white settler in Charlestown, but Sonierville seemed to please the fancy of the town-makers and so was selected. The city is divided into a number of sections — East Somerville, Union Square, Prospect Hill, Central Hill, Spring Hill, Clarendon Hill, West Somerville, Winter Hill, North Somerville, and College Hill. It is traversed by four railroads with numerous stations, and half a dozen electric lines, the most direct to the central parts of the city being by way of Cambridgepoi't, or East Cambridge. Walk a. We leave the car in Charlestown at or near Wapping- kStreet, two or three short blocks beyond Citj^ Square, and visit fii\st the Navy Yard, that being, of the several Charlestown sights, the nearest to the city proper. City Square and the slopes of Town Hill rising back of the Puljlic Library building (formerly the City Hall), on the left side, were the parts occupied by the first settlers. Here was the palisaded house of Walford, the pioneer settler, perhaps at about the point where Main Street starts out from the square. On the site of the Public Librarj' building was the " Great House " built for Governor Winthrop in which the Court of Assistants met on September 17 (or 7 0. S.), 1630, and ordered " that Trimontaine shalbe called Boston ; Mattapan, Dorchester ; and ye towne upon Charles Ryuer, Waterton." On the summit of Town Hill was the fort with " pallisadoes and flankers," built in 1629, which stood for half a century or more. Near by, at the head of the present Henley Street, was the first meeting-house set up in 1636, for the First Parish organized in 1632, the site now covered by the Harvard Street Church, built in 1834. On the easterly slope was the " Great Oak " under which the First Church, which became the First Church of Boston, was organized, in 1630. Near the foot toward the square was the first burjang- ground, all traces of which were long ago obliterated ; here the young minister John Harvard \vas probably biti'ied. A few inter- esting old houses are still found in this quarter. The house on Harvard Street, third from the square, left side, Avas occupied by Edward Everett while he was governor of the Commonwealth, 1836-40. The Navy Yard covers Moulton's Point, where the British troops landed for the battle of Bunker Hill. The yard is open daily between sunrise and sunset, and visitors are freely admitted, passes being obtained for the asking (apply at the office at the Wapping Street gate). Its massive granite Avails on the land sides inclose ninety-one acres, with a Avater frontage of a mile and three qura-ters, the original area of twenty-five acres having been increased from time to time by additional piu'chases and the 68 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. filling of marshes and flats. Entering by the lower of two broad avenues which run parallel across the yard, and once beyond the sombre fortress-like entrance we are in a place of pleasant aspect. Handsome trees, many of them almost as old as the yard itself, shade the walk ; on the left is the wide green park with lines of pyramids of shot, rows of cannon, and old-time mounted guns ; and across the park, the upper avenue, along which are the commandant's house setting back from an old- fashioned garden, the commandant's office, the marine barracks by a parade-ground, with other early nineteenth-century buildings. Paths at regular intervals through the park connect the avenues, the stateliest one leading to the commandant's quai'ters. The granite rope-walk, 1630 feet long (built in 1836, enlarged 1856), is one of the luost interesting of the older buildings in this quarter. But the dry dock, at the right of the lower avenue, is the most popular feature of the yard. This dock was six years in building, 1827-33, under the direction of the eminent engineer, Loammi Baldwin, 2d, of Woburn (sou of Colonel Loammi Baldwin, distin- guished in the Revolution), Avho also built the dry dock of the Norfolk yard. Its walls are of hammei'ed granite, and the floor of oak rests uiDon thickly i^lanted piles. It measured originally three hundred and five feet in length, eighty-six feet in width, and thirty feet in depth ; and in 1857 was extended by the addition of sixty-five feet. The granite head-house was built in 1832. The first man-of-war docked here was the frigate "Constitution," — "Old Ironsides," — on the 24th of June, 1833, and the event was celebrated with much ceremony. "Commodore Hull," says Drake, "appeared once more on the deck of his old ship, and superintended her entrance within the dock. The gallant old sailor moved about the deck with his head bare, and exhibited as much animation as he would have done in battle. The Vice-Pres- ident, Mr. Van Buren, the Secretary of War, Mr. Cass, Mr. Southard, and other distinguished guests graced the occasion by their presence, while the officers at the station were required to be present in full uniform." The receiving ship " Wabash," moored near the battery, in the immediate neighborhood of the dry dock, might next be visited. It is open to the public under certain slight restinctions, and the officer of the day courteously assigns a sailor guide to visitors who express a desire to be shown over it. No fees are exacted for this service, — indeed fees are frowned upon by the ship's officers, — but Jack Tar expects a trifle, and ought to have it, for he is most obliging. Other features of the yard, several of which, however, are closed to visitors, are the great machine-shops, ship-houses, store-houses, the magazine and CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 69 arsenal, building- ways, and the Naval Museum. The lower ship- house marks the site of the lauding of General Howe's troops. The tour of the yard should end with the visit to the Naval Museum, which occupies the second story of the oldest of all the buildings in the inclosure (built in 1803), near the main gate at which we entered. The unique collection here was begun in ISi.) with the founding of the Naval Library and Institute. "Work of one sort and another is constantly going on in this Navy Yard, but in these days it has a dull air compared with its appearance in the Civil War period, during wliich six thousand men were here employed, or in the earlier wooden ship-building times when famous men-of-war were launched from it. The list of vessels here constructed is brilliant with the names of the "Frolic;" the "Independence," the first seventy-four of the NaA'y ; the "Boston;" the "Warren;" the "Falmouth;" the "Cumberland;" the "Vermont;" the "Merrimac," the first screw steam frigate of the Navy; the "Hartford," afterward the flagship of Farragut ; the " Narragausett ; " and, during the Civil War, the " Marblehead," the " Sagamore," the " Gene- see," the " Monadnock," and the "Guerriere." From the Navy Yard to Bunker Hill Monument and Breed's Hill, by way of Wapping, Henley, and Park streets, Winthrop Square, and Chestnut Street, is a walk of about ten minutes. "Winthrop Square was the Colonial training-field and has been a Common since the early days of the settlement. The soldiers' monument here is the work of Martin Milmore, and was placed in 1S72. The central figure is the " Genius of America " repre- sented as in the act of crowning with laurel the Union soldier and sailor on either side. The memorial tablets near by, bearing the names of the Americans who fell in the Battle of Bunker Hill, were placed in 1889 and dedicated on the 17th of June that year. The late John Boyle O'Reilly, the Irish poet, lived for many years at No. 34 Winthrop Street, on this square. By Chestnut Street we approach Monument Square and the Monument grounds on the southeast side. The gracefully tajiering obelisk measures thirty feet square at its base, and rises to the apex two hundred and twenty feet. It is customary to say that it stands in the middle of the old redoubt, and that the lines of the base are parallel to the sides of the forti- fication. But this is not quite correct. It actually covers only the southeast corner. It was supposed when built to be on the exact lines, and the deviation was due to following an imperfect map. The redoubt was eight rods square with some angular formations for en- trance on the southerly side, which was nearly jjarallel with the street. The embankment of about four Innidred feet, called a breastwork, extended down the slope of the hill toward the Mystic. The stone wall and " rail fence," behind which the forces of Stark, Reed, and Knowlton poured their hot fire on the enemy and covered the final retreat of Prescott, was in a general way an extension of the breastwork toward the shore of the river, and was 70 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. designed to prevent the enemy from outflanking the force in the redoubt. This extension work was in part where the cemetery near Ehu Street, four blocks north of the Monument Grounds, now is. It was about nine hundred feet long and composed chiefly of parts of two rail fences placed together with hay filled in between them, that part nearest the river being filled in with rocks and stones from the beach. These various works, hastily thrown up in a night and half-day, were mostly effaced after the British obtained possessioia of the hill, when their engineers planned fortifications of some magnitude in place of them. Bunker Hill IMonument. The spot where Warren fell was not where the memorial stone is fixed on the path-edge near the monument, hut further north, now covered hy the Methodist Church at the head of Pleasant Street. The Tuscan pillar of brick and wood erected in Warren's memory in 1794 — the model of which is now within the monvi- ment — stood here before the church was built. The spot where Prescott stood at the opening- of the fight is correctly marked by the Prescott statue in the main path, which faces, however, in the opposite direction, presenting his back instead of his front to the enemy. This is an excellent portrait statue and the costume CHARLESTOWX AND SOMERVILLE. 71 is exact as well as picturesque. The fight preceding was very hot, and the commander, who had worked side by side with his men, had thrown off his heavy outside unifoi'm and i)ut on a long loose ''seersucker*' and a broad-brimmed farmer's hat, and in this easy dress entered the contest. The pose of the figure is spirited and dramatic. The sculptor has chosen the moment when the words of warning were uttered: "Don't fire till I tell you! Don't fire till you see the Avhites of their eyes ! " The body seems vibrant with emotion, the eyes gaze eagerly on the close ajiproach- ing foe, the left hand is thrown back (in a repressing motion) as if restraining his impatient men, and the right grasps nervously the unsheathed sword ready to be raised as the signal for action. The statue, of bronze, cast in Rome, is one of the best of William W. Story's works. It is nine feet in height, and raised on a pedestal of Jonesboi'ough granite seven feet high, the base of which is Quincy granite. It has but a single inscription ; the words on the front panel: " Colonel William Prescott. June 17, 1775." It was placed by the Bunker Hill Monument Association, the custodian of the grounds, in 1881, and was dedicated on the 17th of June that year. Robert C. Winthrop was the orator of the occasion. It is every visitor's duty, and possibly pleasure, to ascend the monument by the spiral flight of stone steps — two hundred and ninetj'-five of them — winding round the hollow cone inside to the observatory at the top. This is seventeen feet high and eleven feet in diameter, and the windows on either side command a truly magnificent view of great extent. Either before or after the ascent the museum in the lodge at tlie base should be visited. It contains various memorials of the battle, an excellent statue of General Warren, in marble, executed by Henry Dexter in 1857, and a model of the first monument. The Bunker Hill Monument was designed in part by, and built under the superintendence of Solomon Willard, the architect (in conjunction with Alexander Parris) of St. Paul's Church and of the old Court House, Court Square, Boston. In response to the proposal for designs for the obelisk, Horatio Greenough sent in a model in wood which was selected by the committee, although the prize offered by them to the successful com- petitor was never bestowed upon him. [Tuckerman's Life of Greenough.] Greenough's biographer adds, ''The ulterior arrangement of the work was planned by another, but the form, proportions, and style of the monument were adopted from Greenouglrs model, and the simple, majestic, and noble structure ... is thus indissolubly associated with his name."' It is con- structed of Quincy granite, from a quarry which is still pointed out in Quincy as the old "Bunker Hill Quarry;"' .and to which the first railroad con- structed in New England was built. The monument was seventeen years in building and was finally completed largely through the patriotic exertions of women in Massachusetts. Tlie last stone of the apex was raised on July 23, 184'2, the event being announced by the firing of cannon. Edward Carnes, Jr., rode up on the stone to the top, waving an American flag. For some time after the completion of the monument, the elevator used in hoisting the stones was 72 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERYILLE. employed iu carrying venturesome sightseers to the top, at a fee of a quarter of a dollar a head. The formal dedication occurred on the 17th of June, 1843. Tlie occasion was a memorable one. President John Tyler with the members of his cabinet were among the men of distinction present, and Mr. Webster, the orator, " was himself that day. His apostrophe to the gigantic shaft was as grand and noble as the subject was lofty and sublime. Waving his hand toward the towering structure he said, ' the powerful speaker stands motionless before us.' He was himself deeply moved. The sight of such an immense sea of upturned faces — he had never before addressed such a multi- tude — he afterward spoke of as awful and oppressive. The applause from a hundred thousand throats surged in great waves around the orator, com- pleting in his mind the parallel of Old Ocean." We leave the Monument Grounds by the main path, walk up High Street a short distance, take Green Street at the left and descend the hill to Main Street, follow Main Street to Phipps Street, at the left, and thence reach the ancient burying-ground. At the turn into Main Street from Green Street, we pass the Harvard Church (Unitarian) which covers the site of " Wood's bake-shop," where the fire kindled by Burgoyne's hot shot from the Boston side during the fight on the hill was arrested, and which was subseqitently used through the British occupation as the commissaiy's office. About a block above, on the opposite side of Main Street, we may get a slender notion of the first dwelling built after this "burning," but most distinguished as the birthplace, sixteen years later, of Samuel Finley Breese Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph, in the remnant of the Edes house. This was originally a large three-story mansion-house built by David Wood, on the site of his former dwelling destroyed in the "burn- ing," and remained in the possession of his descendants for nearly a century. This house was known as the Edes house from the time of Thomas Edes, who married a daughter of David Wood. The estate had been in the Wood family since 1G76. Morse was born in the front chamber of the second story at the right of the front door entrance (then on Main Street), from a porch opening directly upon the sidewalk. At the time, his parents, the Rev. Jedediah and Madam Morse, were guests of Thomas Edes, a parishioner and near friend of tlie minister, while a new parsonage was building by the church, the old First Parish, on Town Hill. The ancient graveyard is closed to the general public, but the gate key may be obtained by any visitor \ipon application at the apothecary shop on the Main Street corner. This is a much more picturesque spot than the unlovely, almost squalid, surroundings would indicate. It occujiies a knoll originally on the margin of a bay in the west bank of the Charles River, now filled in, and is crowded with tombs and graves well shaded hj aged trees. Although the first reference to it in the town records is f oimd under date of 1648, the oldest slab is marked 1642. This bears the name of Maud Russell, wife of William Russell. The Harvard monu- ment, a granite shaft, four feet square at the base and fifteen feet CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 73 high, occupies the liighest point in the inclosiire, and is the most conspicuous object here. It dates from 1828, when it was erected by alumni of the University with fitting ceremony, President Walker, at that time pastor of the Unitarian church in Charlestown, making- a prayer, and Edward Everett delivering an oration. The inscriiitions, now almost entirely obliterated, are in these words : — (On the eastern face.) On the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 1828, this stone was erected by tlie graduates of the Uuiversit3' at Cambridge in honor of its founder, who died at Charlestown on the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 1G38. (Western face. In Latin.) That one who merits so much from our literary men should no longer be without a monument, however humble, the graduates of the University of Cambridge, New England, have erected this stone nearly two hundred years after his death, in pious and perpetual remembrance of John Harvard. The Harvard Monument. Near the Harvard Monument is the tomb of the ministers of the First Parish. In some of the slabs on the brick tombs which line the outside path around the ground family arros are ciit. 74 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. The walk from the old graveyard to Charlestown Heights, as the park on Bunker Hill is called, is not an interesting one, and we might cover this distance hy car. If we ride, we should leave the car at Mead Street, and ascend the hill at the right. Charlestown Heights embraces four acres of highland and of flats on the river front below, and is laid out with much skill and taste in circling paths around the broad green which spreads out from the pictur- esque " Shelter" near the entrance. The view from the "ram- parts " to the east, north, and west, includes a sweep of suburban cities and towns, with the line of the Middlesex Fells in the dis- tance, and the placid Mystic, twisting through the marshes, in the foreground. The view further east and to the south, more urban and in its way quite as interesting, is to be obtained from the old Catholic burying-ground, near by, occupying the highest point of the hill, by the side of the Catholic church. This church, by the way, a massive structure of blue stone, the tall spire of which, reaching one hundred and eighty feet above the hill, is a land- mark for miles around, occujiies the site of the redoubt which the British built after the occupation, over the rude fortifications thrown up by Putnam at the time of the battle. The church was built in 1860-62 and dedicated to St. Francis de Sales. Walk h. Returning to Main Street we may now take our car for Somerville, — a ear marked Highland Avenue. Other Somerville ears turn into Cambridge Street by Jackson Park, at the left, and proceed to Union Square, and others continue from Charlestown Neck to the top of Winter Hill. Somerville, once an extremely pretty rural town, with country roadways, and lanes on its hill- slopes, sometimes lined with barberry-bushes and generally with trees, is now a great suburban residential citj^ thick with houses, detached and in blocks, with city ways and airs. Although it has numerous historic spots, which thoughtful folk have marked with tablets, its attractions to the visitor in search of landmarks are few, since its most noteworthy ones, which once gave it a special interest, have been swept away for house-lots and streets. It still possesses, however, one of the most i^icturesque of ancient structures, in the Old Mill, or Powder House, especially interesting as the place against which the first hostile demonstrations of Gage were made. Being a city built on several hills, Somerville is in the enjoyment of extended views in various directions, and in lieu of landmarks these are among the features which most invite the visitor. The car proceeds from Main Street in Charlestown where we board it, over " the Neck," and along Broadway [see Walk No. 14] to Cross Street at the left, through Cross Street to Medford CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 75 Street, thence by Higlilancl Avenue over Central Hill, to Davis Square, West Sonierville. At the left of Medford Street is the remnant of the long, broad, easterly summit of Prospect Hill (of which Central Hill is, strictly speaking, a part). Of the several historic eminences in this region it has an interest second only to that of Breed's Hill, and ought to have been preserved as a public reservation. For on this si;mmit Putnam fixed his quarters after the retreat from Breed's Hill : here was built the " Citadel," with its outworks, one of the most important parts of the American investments, of which General Nathaniel Green was subsequently put in command : here, a month after the Breed's Hill battle (on the IStli of July), Putnam raised his Connecticut flag, with its motto " An Appeal to Heaven," and in January following the Union flag of the Confederated Colonies was first hoisted with a salute of thirteen guns. Then, later on, during the winter of 1777-78, in the barracks which spread over the hill-top, were quartered the English portion of Burgoyne's array taken at Saratoga. These facts are in part rehearsed on the tablet Avliieh stands, twenty or thirty feet below the original height of the summit, at the head of Prospect Hill Avenue, the street starting toward the hill from Central Square, at the junction of Cross and Medford Streets. The inscription reads : — On this hill The Union flag with its thirteen stripes the emblem of the United Colonies, first bade defiance to an enemy Jan. 1, 1776. Here was the Citadel The most formidable works in the American lines during the Siege of Boston June 17, 1775, to March 17, 1776. On the southerly slope of the hill, toward Washington Street, (the ancient "Milk Row"), at a point opposite Rossmore Street, another tablet recoi-ds that, " On this hillside James Miller. Minute man, aged sixty-five, was slain by the British, April 19, 1775. — ' I am too old to run.' " Some of the hottest fighting below North Cambridge on the British rout of that day was along this part of Milk Row, and Miller, with another minute- man, was taking an active part in it, firing from behind a stone wall, when the two were attacked by a flanking part}'. His companion urged him to escape, but, with the remark quoted on the tablet, he continued firing at the approaching foe " until he fell pierced by thirteen buUets." On Central Hill, over which our car runs, are the city build- ings, — the High School, the English High School (built in 1895), the 76 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. Pviblie Library (1884), and the City Hall (the old Town House), — v/ell set, with agreeable surroundings, and beside the public park occupying the highest point of the summit and extending over its steep northern sloi^es. The miniature fortress near the middle of ■■■' - ■ ■ - •■ -■' ^■.■;.•''•"^';.■^/^^^t-^ Central Hill. the park marks the French Redoubt of the fortifications of 1775, which was connected with the Citadel on Prospect Hill by a ram- part and ditch. Traces of the line of connecting earthworks, indeed a considerable portion of it, were visible until after the town became a city. Between this redoubt and the Winter Hill Fort, on the most northerly hill of tlie city [see Walk No. 14], was the " Star Fort " in the valley north of Medford Street and east of Walnut Street, the eastern boundary of the park ; and further on other redoubts. The bronze tablet set in the wall of the little battery bears this inscription : — This battery was erected by the city in 1885 aud is within the lines of the " French Redoubt," which was thrown up by tlie American troops under Gen. Israel Putnam, immediately after the Battle of Bunker Hill : and later became a part of the besieging lines of Boston in 1775-7G. The guns were donated by Congress and were in service during the late Civil War. On Sycamore Street, the second on the right beyond the City Hall, extending to Winter Hill, is the old John Tufts farmhouse, which was the headquarters of General Charles Lee, com- manding the left wing of the army, dui'ing the investment of Bos- ton, after his removal from the more sumptuous, but more remote, Royall house in Medford. [See Walk No. 14.] It stands in the valley between the hills near the corner of Medford Street, a CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. i i plain, comfortable dwelling considerably modernized, but still pre- serving the eighteenth-century stamp. Opposite the house was a strong redoubt connected with the works on Winter Hill. Headquarters of General Lee. Central Street, crossing Highland Avenue a short distance be- yond Sycamore Street, leads to Spring Hill at the left, where are some of the older estates of the city. On the northwesterly spur of this hill Lord Percy planted his cannon on the British retreat, and for a short time cannonaded the minute-men, while the main body of the exhausted troojjs hurried on. Beyond Central Street the avenue extends through a region formerly known as "Polly Swamp," once covered with small trees and thick bushes, a gruesome place shunned o' nights because '' haunted," but now packed with houses, and treeless, not one preserved for shade or street adornment. Willow Avenue, near the end of the ride along Highland Avenue, leads to a spot marked by a tablet relating that ' ' a sharp fight occurred here between the Patriots and the British, April 19, 1775. This marks British soldiers' graves." The tablet stands on Elm Street on the corner of Willow Avenue, a short walk from Highland Avenue, to the left. Leaving the car at Davis Square we turn sharply to the right into Elm Street, follow this wide curving thoroughfare to its junc- tion with Broadway, College Avenue, and Harvard Street, a short walk beyond, and so reach the Old Powder House, Here we find a public park with the ancient relic as the centre-piece, crown- ing a slight eminence, to which carriage-ways as Avell as footwalks lead. The tower is thirty feet high to the top of the conical roof, and sixty and three quarters feet in circumference at the lower part. 78 CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVJLLE, The walls are from two to two and a half feet thick, with an inner lining of brick, and curve in slightly toward the top. Until well into the last quarter of the present century much of the interior woodwork, great oaken beams supporting three lofts, remained, but now it is an empty shell, having been cleaned oiit when it was acquired by the city for preservation. At this time the granite blocks framing the barred doorway and window opposite were in- serted to strengthen the wall at these points, — good masonry, but poor art. A bronze plate set high up in the wall, but at easy read- ing distance, gives these statements : — This old mill Built by John Mallet on u site purchased in 1703-4 was deeded in 1747 to the Province of The Massachusetts Bay in New England And for many years was used as a public Powder House. On September 1, 1774, General Gage seized The 'J50 half -barrels of gunpowder Stored within it and thereby provoked the Great assembly of the following day, on Cambridge Common, The first occasion on which our patriotic forefathers Met in arms to oppose the Tyranny of King George III. In 1775 it became the magazine of the American army besieging Boston. This tablet was placed by the Society of the Sons of the Revo- lution. The plate over the barred entrance bears simply the name of the park, — the Nathan Tufts Park, from the long-time owner of the farm adjoining, —with the date of its establishment, 1^89, and the names of the persons who happened at that time to occupy the mayoralty and other city positions. The structure was erected before 1710, some historians say, and the blue stone for its massive walls was taken, presumably, from the quarries at the base of the hill, which were opened some time before it was built and gave the little eminence the name of '' Quarry Hill." In the early days the region between Quarry Hill and the present Charles- town line Avas known as " Stinted Pasture " or " Cow Commons." Each inhabitant in Charlestown at that time had the right to pasture a certain number of cows here. An hour after sunrise the cattle were collected hj a herdsman by the blowing of his horn, and were driven to the best grazing places. The original lot convej'^ed with the tower to the Province in 1747 was a quarter of an acre square, with the right of way to the high road, and this is now enib raced in the Public Park. The Old Mill remained in the family of its builders, the Mallets, for nearly half a centur}-, and for a good part of this period did a thriving trade as a grist-mill, being widely known and well i)laced at the meeting of the high CIIAKLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE, 79 roads from Cambridge, Medford, Meiiotomy (Arlington), and the interior. But for some years before it became the Provincial Powder House its use as a windmill had ceased. It remained the principal storehouse for powder in the near ueighborliood of Boston from the time of its purchase from Michael Mallet by Provincial Treasurer Foye, until about 1830, when the magazine at Cambridgeport was built hy the Commonwealth. Tlie seizure of its store of powder by Gage's sol- diers, which gives the tower its special distinc- tion as a monument of the first openly hostile act of the Revolution on tlie part of the British, is thus de- scribed in the Essex Ga- zette of the Gth of Sep- tember, 1774 : . . . "on Thursday morning [Sep- tember 1], at half -past four, about 200 troops em- barked on board 13 boats at the Long -Wharf and proceeded up Medford [Mystic] River, to Tem- ple's [Ten -Hills] Farm, where they landed and went to the Powder- House on Quarry Hill, in C h a r 1 e s t o w n bounds, whence tliey have taken 250 barrels of powder, the whole store, and carried it to the Castle [Boston Harbor]." At the same time a detachment went on to Cambridge and there seized two field - pieces which were also conveyed to Boston. These proceed- ings roused the men of Middlesex, and the next day hundreds of them from tlie surrounding towTis flocked to Cam- bridge ready for action. It was immediately after this raid that the powder and guns of the Provincials were removed to Concord and other distant parts and the watch on all the ways out of Boston, both water and land, was estab- lished by an organization of thirty patriots, to detect any movement of the King's troops and alarm the country. Id I Old Powder House. From the Powder House we turn toward College Hill, rising near by at tlie northwest, the finishing feature of this walk and, in respect to attractive surroundings, one of the pleasantest. We may approach by way of College Avenue, the main thoroughfare between Somerville and Medford, and turn to the left at Profes- sors' Row, which crosses the southern slope of the hill ; or we may follow Broadway westward to a point opposite Wallace Street, where a well-worn footpath crosses the broad fields of the college 80 CHARLESTOWX AXD SOMERVILLE. property, passes a small pond, and brings us to Professors' Row farther to the west and close beside Metealf Hall, the home of some of the women students of the college. Following Profes- sors' Row from College Avenue we first pass the President's house, then the dwellings of several of the professors. Just beyond Met- ealf Hall, on the right, the old '' college walk " leads up over the terraced hillside, under arching trees, to Ballou Hall, the original college building. At the right of BaUou Hall stands the beautiful Goddard Chapel, a famous bit of architecture, with its hundred- foot campanile, which has been pronounced by experts the finest example of its type in the country. The chapel was erected by Mrs. Mary T. Goddard of Xewton, as a memorial of her husband. Thomas A. Goddard. who was prominent among the founders of the college. At the left is the Bamum Museum of Natural His- tory, built and endowed by the famous showman. Phineas T. Bamum. If we pass along the Row. beyond the "college walk." we m^ay turn to the right at Packard Avenue and ascend the hill to the Reservoir [Mystic Water Works], passing on the way the old campus, the Goddard Gymnasium, another gift of Mrs, God- dard, and Dean Hall, a dormitory, all on the left ; and the Bar- num Mtiseuxn on the right. Ascending the steps to the concrete walk surrounding the Reservoir banks we may enjoy a panoramic view embracing the tidal flats of the Mystic River. Maiden, Med- ford. the thick woods of the Middlesex Fells, Winchester, Arling- ton, Cambridge, the Brookline hills, and SomerviUe. and in the far southeast the Blue Hills, Here, too. are to be seen especially beautiful sunsets. Leaving the Reservoir and crossing the summit of the Mil, with the Museum on our right, we pass in succession on the left West Hall, a dormitory, the Library, with a pump beside it yielding excellent spring water, and East Hall, another dormitory. On the eastern brow of the hill are the two buff brick btiildings of the DiA-iaity School. Miner Hall, the gift of the late Rev. Alonzo A, Miner. D. D.. and Paige Hall, the dormitory of the school, named for the late Rev. Lucius R . Paige, D. D. . of Cam- bridge. Three college buildings are on the eastern side of College Avenue — the Commons Btdlding, containing the post-office, dining-hall. and rooms for students, the Chemical Building and the Bromfield-Pearson School, admirably equipped for the tech- nical work of the engineering cotirses. The college estate com- prises about one hundred acres. Before the establishment of the college this hill was known as Walnut Hill from the walnut-trees which once covered it ; but when it was given for the institution not one was left. Since that time, however, a new growth has been cultivated and the place is now rich in trees of many varieties. CHARLESTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 81 Tufts College was chartered iii lSo2, the result of a movement begun among Universalists about ten years before. The selection of the site was due to the gift of laud on the summit of the hill by Charles Tufts of Somerville, for whom the college was named, and of adjoining lots by citizens of Mtd ord. The corner-stone of the first building was laid on the '-6d of July, 1>53. The college was formally opened in 1855, and the first class graduated in 1857. The college is co-educational (since 1S92) ; it has, besides the College of Let- ters, with courses on a liberal elective basis leading to the degree of A. B., and technical courses for which the degree of D. B. is given, a Divinitj- School (founded 18G9), and a Medical School (in Boston, founded 1893). The corps of instructors in all departments numbers about 80. The endowment is over Sl,SrK),C>rtO, The list of alumni and students numbers (1896) over 170C». The presidents have been : the Rev. Hosea Ballon, 2d. D. D. (1854-1801), the Rev. Alonzo A. Miner, D. D. (1802-1874), and the Rev. Elmer H. Capen, D. D. (present president, installed in 1875). Tufts College. The return to Boston may be made by steam car [B. & M., S. Div.] from the College Hill station, at the northeast foot of the hill; or if we are not too "fatigued, and have plenty of time, by the Medford electric cars, reached by a half-mile semi-rural walk along the willow-lined lane starting from the farther side of the railway bridge, to Steams Street, and thence to Main Street. We may also return from the south side of the hill, by either of two lines of electric cars from Davis Square. West Somerville, or by lines along Massachusetts Avenue (reached by a somewhat longer walk) passing through Cambridge. Medford. Boston to Medford Square by electric car, from ScoUay Square, by way of Charlestown and Winter Hill (Somerville), 5h miles. By steam car [B. &M., Med. Br.], 5 miles. Fare, electric car, 5 cents ; steam car, 10 cents. Bcs- ton to West Medford, by steam car [B. & M., S. Div.], 5 miles; fare, 10 cents. Walk a [No. 14]. On the way by electric car : embraces Ten-Hills on Mystic side, and other historic points ; in Medford, beginning at the Old Royall mansion-house, follows Main Street, skirts the Mystic, covers High Street, Pasture Hill, Forest Street, pleasant ways centring in the Square, the old buryiug-ground with the Governor Brooks monument, the river road . over to the ancient Cradock house. East Medford, and beyond to Wellington. Return from Wellington by steam car (fare 8 cents). Walk h [No. 1.5]. In West Medford. From the station along Harvard Ave- nue to the river : follows the river side back in the direction of old Medford ; continues along Prescott Street and the lane to Hastings's bluff ; cuts across to High Street ; follows High Street toward West Medford centre again, passing numerous old estates ; crosses over to Mystic Mount ; takes cross streets to the railroad track, re-enters High Street on the farther side of the railroad ; passes by the Brooks estate, embracing the arch over the old canal bed, and the Indian monument, to the Weirs. Return by steam car, West Medford station. Medford dates from 1G30, when, in Jime, a number of colonists sent out from England by Matthew Cradock, merchant (the first governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, Avho remained in England), came from Salem, where they had arrived with Governor Wmthrop's company, and began a settlement on the northwest side of the Mystic River. They were artisans, " selected for their fitness to engage in the business of the fisheries and ship- building," and several of them being " coopers and cleaners of timber." Un- der the contract made in England, they were to work one tliird for Mr. Cradock, and two thirds for the Bay Company ; and Winthrop doubtless interested himself in their settlement. They built their first log house on a promontory nearly opposite his Ten-Hills Farm on the other side of the river, and at this point " at once addressed themselves to the work which the}' had in hand." In 1632 they built their first ship, a craft of one hundred tons (the second built on the My.stic, Winthrop's " Blessing of the Bay " being the first), and in 1634 erected the " Cradock House " still standing. From that early time until the opening of the Civil War ship-building was the leading industrj' of Medford. Between 1850-60 some of the finest of the clipper-ships of that period were built in Medford yards. From 1800 to 1873, when the last vessel was launched, 507 ships of various kinds, with an aggregate of 272,124 tons, were built here at a total cost of ujjward of twelve and a quarter million dol- lars. The greatest number constructed in anj- one yard was 185, and in any single year 30 (1848). In i^lace of ships the river craft are now pleasure-boats and canoes. The making of "Medford rum," for which the town was long widely known, was begun about the year 1735. The name of Medford, or "Meadford," as it was first written, was possibly chosen from the resem- blance of the broad rich river-marshes of the region to sweeps of English meads. Medford lies along the valley of the Mystic and on the rising ground above, between College Hill on the north and tlie highlands of the Middle.sex Fells on the south. It became a city in 1802. It is sub-divided into Old Medford, West Medford, Medford Hillside, and East Medford, the latter including Glenwood and Wellington. The electric car line to Medford proper, or Old Medford, is by way of Main vStreet, Charlestowu, to the '' Neck ; " Broadway, Winter Hill ; and Main Street from the snmniit of the hill, direct MEDFORD. 83 to Medford Square. The ride becomes most interesting after CharlestoAvn Neck is passed and the ascent of Winter Hill begun. The jagged mounds on the right as Broadway is fairly entered are relics of Ploughed Hill, afterward Mount Benedict, once a bold eminence, where, in ITTo, during the Siege of Boston, the Americans took an advanced post, bringing them in range of the enemj^'s guns on Bunker Hill : and where later, in 1S2(), the Jesuits established the Ureuline Convent, which was bui-ned bj' a mob in 1834, its picturesque ruin remaining a striking landmark for nearly half a century after. The fortification of Ploughed Hill was directed by General SuUivau under a severe cauuouade, and his picket line was pushed out '• till it confronted the enemy within ear-shot." " The place became the scene of much sharpshoot- iug, chiefly conducted b}^ Morgan's Virginia riflemen."' [Winsor.] This post was the extreme left of the American advanced line which continued back to Cobble Hill in Somerville (afterward occupied bj'the McLean Insane Asylum, now in Waverly), and thence to Phips's farm at Lechmere's Point, in East Cambridge, where the County Court-House now stands. The Convent of St. Ursula, which gave the name of Mt. Benedict to the hill, was first established in 1820 in Boston, occupying a building adjoining the old Cathedral, which stood where the Cathedral building now stands, on the cor- ner of Franklin Street and Winthrop Square. Thence it was removed to this eminence. The convent house, an extensive structure of brick and stone, stood on the summit of the hill surrounded by cultivated grounds, laid in terraces from the highway, with fine orchards, groves, and gardens. The mob who fired it (on the night of August 11, 1S34), was composed mostly of men from Boston, who had been stirred by idle tales of ill treatment of in- mates, notably one Rebecca Reed, a pupil, and Sister Mary John. The act was generally deplored by orderly citizens. In Charlestown (within the limits of wliich the hill was at that time), a meeting was held at which cou- demnjitory resolutions, drawii up by a committee headed by Edward Everett, were adopted, and a vigilance committee was appointed. In Boston similar action was taken in Faneuil Hall, Harrison Gray Otis, Josiah Quincy, Jr., and others speaking, and such men .is Charles G. Loring, Charles P. Curtis, Henry Lee, Horace Mann, Robert C. Winthrop, and Thomas Motlej-, being named as a committee of investigation. Thirteen of the attacking party were arrested and tried, but only one was convicted, and this one being the least guilty was subsequently pardoned. Tlie affair was tlie subject of numerous pamphlets and books. After the burning of their house, the T'rsulines were for a while established in Roxbury, and early in the forties they moved to Canada. On the river side a short distance above the remnants of Mount Benedict is " Ten-Hills," Avhich Governor Winthrop selected for his farm when he "went up to Massachusetts to find a place for our sitting down," as he chronicles in his Journal, and made his first exploration of the '' Mystick." On one of these hillocks he built his farm house and then wrote to his wife, yet in England, '■ My dear wife, we are here in a paradise."' In front of him was the winding river narrowing from the little bay below where the Maiden River joins it ; round about him, a cluster of hills of vary- ing sizes, and wide meadows ; behind him a dense forest stretch- ing back to the Winter Hill top in which he once lost his way and spent an anxious night. Now this is a region far from fair. The 84 MEDFORD. river still winds picturesquely, and something yet remains of the hills which gave the farm its name ; hut it is for the most jjart a harren waste, a place of hacked mounds, of clay-pits, and brick- yards. It has an interest, however, from its historic associations, and for the good river and marsh views its few remaining eleva- tions afford. To I'each it we should leave our car on Broadway by Broadway Park, near the spared elm in the grassy parkway through Avhich the tracks here pass. A short and dusty walk through Chauncy Street, at the right, across Mystic Avenue (the old Med- ford tiarnpike), and along the road through the brick-yard, which extends to the hill beyond, brings us to Middlesex Avenue. Tak- ing the left turn mto the avenue, and following its cui've to the right, in a moment we are at the bridge crossing the river. In the little group of rugged and ragged trees on the low bank sloping to- wai'd the Avater, at the right of the roadway, we discern a rude board sign which suggests a roadside advertisement, and approach- ing read this inscription upon it : — Ancient Wharf Here Governor Winthrop launched The Blessing of the Bay The first ship built in Massachusetts July 4, 1631. The British landed here in the raid on the Powder House, Sept. 1774. Ancient Wharf. This now dilapidated sign was placed some years ago, and if it accurately marks the spot of the launching, and of the British landing a hundred and forty odd years later (which is to be doubted, the true site probably being further up stream), it shoiild be replaced by an enduring stone tablet. So the courteous and communicative occupant of the little house across the way, who MEDFORD. 85 takes an honest pride in showing off his neig-h boring landmarks, also thinks. Embedded in the shore he will show us pieces of long-seasoned lumber, which are said to be remnants of the '' ancient wharf," i^robably, however, the leavings of an old but not the most ancient one. On the bank the grass-grown hollow, close to an aged arbor-vitae tree, suggesting an ancient cellar, is pointed out as the site of the governor's house ; it is more likely that of a structure which was here some years ago, and known to the neigh- borhood as the " wharf house." Winthrop's house was further on, occupying probably one of the hills now partly cut away near the point where we are to turn back to Winter Hill. Let us now retrace our steps a stone's-throw from the bridge (which carries Middlesex Avenue over to Wellington, whence it goes on to Maiden), and take the cart-road, from the avenue, which cuts through and up the hill. Mounting in the direction of the two solitary trees which occupy the otherwise bare top and sides of the hill, we may enjoy one of the pleasantest of the river views of this region. This was the promontory which Sullivan fortified in the summer of 1775 to protect his position at Ploughed Hill from attack on the river side. The line of the projected Middlesex Fells parkway (The Fells way), which is to cross the river parallel with the present bridge, passes over this hill, and when the boulevard is finished these now dreary parts will become more cheerful. From the hill top our course is to Temple Street, which we see beyond the clay-pits opening from Mystic Avenue toward Winter Hill ; and we may make it by rough cross lots, or more comfortably by footpaths around the pits to the avenue. Temple Street was once a narrow lane thick with trees leading down from Winter Hill to the mansion-house of the Temples, who occupied Ten-Hills between 1740 and the Revolutionary period, which is supposed to have stood, if not exactly upon, very near to the site of Winthrop's farm-house. It oecui^ied a sightly point on the hill now largely dug away, back from Mystic Avenue at the foot of Temple Street, and was one of the finest of country-seats in the neighborhood of Boston. The house was of generous proportions, with a spacious hall, numerous large square rooms, and a snug little apartment at the back of the first land- ing of tlie stairs overlooking the river. [Drake.] The Temple living here at tlie opening of the Revolution — Robert Temple, formerly of Noddle's Island [East Boston], elder brotlier of Sir Jolni Temple, Bart, [see Walk No. 3], — was a royalist, and in May, 177.5, set sail for England. But the ship being obliged to put into Plj-mouth, he was taken off and brought to Cambridge Camp. His family, however, continued to reside in tlie Ten-Hills house under the protection of General Artemas Ward. A later owner of Ten-Hills, Colonf^l Samuel Jaques (born 177G, died 1859), occupied the house, — in his time described as a square, two-storied wooden house shaded by a few elms, — for twenty-eight years, and the family main- 86 MEDFORD. taiued the place some time aftei' liis death. " He was in his habits and man- ners the type of an English country gentleman," says Drake, and, Hunnewell adds, dressed somewhat in tlie quaint fashion of the English squire of his period. He impaled a deer-park and kei)t his hounds, "and often wakened the echoes of the neighboring hills with the note of his bugle or the cry of his pack." He raised fine stock of horses, cows, and sheep, the fame of which was wide-spread. Henry Clay was once an interested visitor of the place, and Daniel Webster was not an infrequent guest. At an earlier period, about tlie opening of this century, Elias Hasket Derby occupied the farm and stocked it with fine breeds of sheep. He is said to have been the first to import merino sheep into this country. The old manor-house stood until 1877, but some time before it disappeared it had fallen from its high estate to a tenement for the families of laborers in the neighboring brick-yards. Wintlirop's domain at Ten-Hills embraced GOO acres granted to him by the Court of Assistants in September, 1G31, after he had built his house here and had launched the " Blessing of the Bay." The farm remained in the Winthrop family till 1077, when it was sold to the widow of Peter Lidgett, merchant of Boston. Her daughter married Lieut. -Governor Usher of New Hampshire, to wiiom the farm seems to have passed after his wife's death in 1G98. At his death it was estimated at 500 acres worth £10,000. From the Usher heirs it passed in 1740 to Robert Temple, and from liim to his son, Robert. The latter mortgaged it in 17G4-G5 as 251 1 acres. In 1780 Nathaniel Trac}', merchant of Cambridge and Newburyport (who fitted out the first privateer in the Revolutionary War), acquired the estate from the Temple family, and in 1785 he mortgaged it as 300 acres with buildings. It came into the possession of Colonel Samuel Jaques and others, in 1830. In 1852-58, when the heirs of Col. Jaques mortgaged it, its dimensions had dwindled to 80 acres, 25 rods, all between the river and Medford turniiike. [Hunnewell.] Again on Broadway at the head of Temple Street we take an- other Medford car — they run at frequent intervals — and con- tinue our ride. On the summit of the hill our road — the old Medford road, now Main Street — diverges to the right. At this point, on the right side, a stone tablet set against the picket fence on the sidewalk line bears this inscription : — Paul Revere Rode over this road in hia Midnight ride to Lexington and Concord April 18, 1775. Site of the " Winter Hill Fort," A stronghold built by the American forces while besieging Boston 1775-6. The fortification here was directlj' across Broadway, inclosed on all sides except at the entrance from the Medford road. As described by Drake, this fort was in form an irregular pentagon, with bastions and deep fosse. A breastwork conforming witli the present direc- tion of Central Street beyond (from Broadway), joined the southwest angle. A hundred yards in advance of the fort were outworks in which guards were nightly posted. The works marked the extreme left of tlie American interior line of defense. They were erected immediately after the Battle of Bunker Hill, and were garrisoned mainly by New Hampshire men. After the sur- render of Burgoyne in 1777, the Hessians of his troops were cantoned here, while the English were quartered on Prospect Hill. [See Walk No. 13.] MEDFORD. 87 The square flat-roofed house occupying the exceptionally fine situation at the junction of Broadway and Main Street dates from 1805, and was long known as the Odin house. Edward Everett lived here in 1826-30, Avhile he was a member of Congress. One of the later owners was John S. Edgerly, in his day a prominent citizen of Somerville. From the summit Main Street makes a rapid descent, and at the right a fine view of the Mj^stic and its meadows is soon dis- closed. After passing Tufts Square, at the foot of the hill, we may catch a glimpse, on the left, of the Old Powder House, upon which Gage's soldiers, whose supposed landing-place we have seen, made their raid, and a full view of the Tufts College buildings spreading over College Hill. [See Walk No. 13.] On the right again, we pass the Mystic Park racing track, and the Mystic House, with its whitewashed tree-trunks ; and, ascending a slight elevation, enter a region of pleasant houses marking the outskirts of the thickly settled portions of the suburban city. Stearns Street, opening by the side of the old, well-conditioned brick house on the left, leads into a willow-lane crossing over to College Hill. This way was named for the late George L. Stearns, a leading Free-soiler and anti-slavery advocate, and helpful during the Civil War in enlisting negroeS in the United States army. He was a steadfast friend of John Brown, who more than once was secreted in his house. The Stearns estate, back from Main Street, on the left, was for many years one of the pleasantest in Medford. We should leave the car at the George Street corner, next be- yond Stearns Street, on the left side, and begin our Old Medford walk at the ancient Roy all mansion-house, which, though shorn of its grandeur, still stands a rare relic of Provincial days. Ap- proaching from the main street we pass through the aveime with only a remnant now of the beautiful trees Avhieh once lined it, and over the narrowed grounds which originally spread in ample pro- portions to the present fi'ont. In plan and finish the house is one of the best examples of pure colonial architecture in the country. It is of three stories, the upper line of windows smaller than those below ; with brick walls rising at either end above the pitched roof ; three sides sheathed with wood, the west side, facing the old-fashioned paved court- yard, being the most highly ornamented. The brick structure near the porch on the south side, and fronting upon the court- yard, was originally the quarters of Colonel Royail's "parcel of slaves," twenty-five or more, which he brought Avith his family in 1737 from Antigua, where he had made a fortune as a merchant. Until comparatively recent years these quarters remained vm- 88 MEDFORD. changed, " with the deep fireplace where the blacks prepared their food, the last visible relies of slavery in New England." [Drake.] The interior of the mansion-house still preserves much of its original arrangement and ornamentation. The lower story is finished in the Doric order, the parlor paneled from floor to ceiling, with pilasters and wooden cornice ; and the parlor cham- The Royall House. ber in the second story is in the Corinthian order, with paneled dado. The rooms are generally large, and the detail throughout is carefully elaborated. The leather hangings which enriched the walls of the gi^ander rooms remained till about twenty-five years ago. On one of the embossed fire-backs was a representation of au ape with an inscription in Latin, which, translated, coniijletely refutes Darwin — " An ape can never be a man." The staircase, rising from the broad hall extending through the house from the eastern to the western side, is with tAvisted newel-post, a fine ex- ample of this style. Wide paneling ornaments the side of the staircase, and the woodwork of the hall is embellished with fine carvings. Tlie grounds about the house in the Royall days, when the es- tate comprised several hundred acres, were ambitiously adorned. There was a large inclosed garden, with pleasant walks, shrub- bery, and fruit orchards. The chief feature was the sixmmer-house on a terraced elevation approached from the courtyard on the west side, through a formal garden path, bordered with box. MEDFORD. 89 There Is yet here an outline of the path which we may follow to the elevation still left with remnants of the terrace. Tliree short flights of brownstone steps, on the east and west sides, led to the summer-house. This was a building in the form of an octagonal temple, with pilasters and all the other features, thoroughly constructed, every joint carefully jirotected with lead ; and sur- mounted by a wooden image of Winged Mercury. The important detail of the structure is said to have been ordered in England, and every nail used in its construction, from spike to shingle nail, Interior of the Royall House. was wrought by hand. This unique affair was demolished only about ten years ago — given away for taking down ; and the per- son executing this commission took five hundred pounds of lead from the roof and protected joints. The locality suffered a great loss in its removal, for it was treasured as one of the widest known and most curious of Medford landmarks. The original approach to the courtyard from the highway was by a broad sweeping ave- nue between rows of great elms, and this was the formal entrance to the estate, the west front of the house being the main one. 90 MEDFORD. The Royall house dates from 1738. A house, built by Lieut.-Governor John Usher, which had long stood ou the site, was utilized by Colonel Roy- all in its construction. Colonel Royall purchased the estate in 1732, and its original dimensions exceeded five hundred acres. He did not long enjoy his country-seat, for he died in June, 1739, and was buried in his marble tomb in the old burying-ground in Dorchester. [See Dorchester walk.] His son Isaac Royall, 2d, succeeded him, and lived here till the outbreak of the Revolution, when he tied the country. The women of his family remained a short time in the mansion after his departure, and when the New Hampshire men pitched their tents in Medford, Colonel Jolin Stark was asked to make it his headquarters, " as a safeguard against insult or any invasion of the es- tate the soldiery might attempt. A few rooms were set apart for the use of the bluff old ranger, and he, on his part, treated the family with considerate respect." [Drake.] Subsequently the house was occupied as headquarters by Geueral Lee, who called it " Hobgoblin Hall " from its echoing corridors ; and later by General Sullivan. At length it was taken under the confiscation act, and put in care of the Medford Committee of Inspection. For the next 27 years all rents and incomes from it went into the treasury of the Common- wealth. Early in the present century the house was used as a seminary for women. About the year 1808 a claim to the estate was presented by Royall's granddaughter, and allowed. In 1810 the place was purchased by Jacob Tidd, whose family held it for about half a century. In later years it has had different owners. Isaac Royall, 2d, was an amiable person, a generous host, — "no gentleman gave better dinners or drank costlier wines," — a leading citizen, and a large- hearted benefactor. He was long a member of the General Court, for twenty- two years in the Governor's Council, and wms appointed a councilor by mandamus in 1774, but declined to serve, — from timidity. Gage wrote. He was the founder of the Royall Professorship of Law, in Harvard College, the foundation of the present Law School, giving over two thousand acres of land in Granby, Mass., for this purpose. One hundred acres in the same town were also given by him to the town of Medford, "for the use and better purpose " of the common schools. The town of Royalston was named in his honor. One of his daughters married George Erving, a merchant of Boston, and another married Sir William Pepperell ; and his sister, Penelope Royall, became the wife of Colonel Henry Vassal of Cambridge. He died of small- pox in England in 1781. From the Royall house to Medford Square is a short walk of six or eight minutes. Instead, however, of going direct by Main The Mystic Marshes, looking from South Streeu MEDFORD. 91 Street and the Cradock bridge spanning' the river, let us make a detour through South Street, at the left, by the old Medford House (an old-tirae tavern), passing along the river side to Win- throp Street, thence, at the right, over Winthrop bridge, — or the long bridge, as the natives call it, — to Winthrop Square, and again at the right into High Street. Thus one of the pleasantest views of the serpentine stream coursing through the outspreading marshes, with the town rising on the banks above them, is had, and the square approached on the other side through a fine old- fashioned thoroughfai'e rich in stately elms. South Street was originally Fish Lane, one of the early roads, and High Street was the third high road laid out by the town, connecting it with Menotomy, now Arlington, It yet retains something of the colo- nial look, a few of the old mansion-houses of the style of that period being preserved ; while its beautiful trees are its glory. A few hunch-ed feet east of the turn from Winthrop Street, or Square, into High Street, we come to the Episcopal Churcli, on the south side, designed by the late H. H. Richardson, one of the early efforts of this master architect : a building of rubble-stone, with Medford granite trimmings, in the style of the conventional English church, pleasing in effect and finish. It occupies the site of the old Bigelow mansion-house, from which, for nearly a dozen years early in this century, Timothy Bigelow, speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives (1S05-6, 1808-10, 1812- 20), drove to the Boston State House to preside over the delibera- tions of this branch of the General Court. Next of note on this side of the street is the older Thatcher Magoun house, built by the pioneer of the Mystic ship-builders who made Medford famous. Adjoining this estate is the unfinished St. Joseph's Catholic Church. On the northerly side of the street, at the junction with Winthrop Street, formerly stood one of the most picturesque houses in the vicinity — that of Parson Ebenezer Turell, for fifty- four years (1724-78) minister of the First Parish. It was removed within the past ten years, to the keen regret of many old citizens. The square, old-fasliioned house, with ornamental railing over the gutters, is known as the Train house, from the family long occu- pying it. It now contains the valuable Masonic library of its present owner, General Samuel C. Lawrence, Avhich is said to be the most complete collection of its kind in the country. The next house is distinguished as that in which General Brooks, afterward Governor Brooks, entertained Washington upon the occasion of his last visit to New England. The church next beyond is the Unitarian Church (successor of the First Parish), replacing in a style far less happy the old meeting-house, a noble feature in the 92 MEDFORD. landscape, which was destroyed by fire about three years ago. Adjoining the church edifice, across Highland Avenue, is the present jiarsonage, also an old house which was long occupied by Dr. David Osgood, the third minister of Medford. The second Thatcher Magoun mansion-house, next east, which was long distinguished as the finest place on High Street, has been the home of the Public Library since 1875. It was given to the town by Thatcher Magoun, 2d, for a library building, together with a generous plot of land and five thousand dollars in money. In remodeling the structure for library purposes care has been taken to preserve its general outlines and interior arrangement, and its appearance to-day is but slightly changed from that which it bore in the days of its pi-ime as the hospitable dwelling of one of the worthies of the town. Within, with an excellent collection of books, and a cabinet of minerals, fossils, relics, especiallv rich in Indian curiosities, are several interesting portraits and pictures, — portraits of the two Thatcher Magouns, of Governor John Brooks, of William H. Burbank, and Samuel M. Stevens, the last two Medford men who fell in the Civil War ; a painting of the old Cradock house (which we shall see in East Medford), by George S. Wasson ; a crayon head of Whittier, by a local artist, and a large painting of Chocorua. Tlie Medford library originated in the Medford Social Library founded in 1825. It became the Town Library in 185G. Its name was then changed to the "Medford Tufts Library," in honor of Turell Tufts, who left by his will the sum of $5000 for its benefit, the income to be expended annually for valu- able books only. In 186G, the town voted to call it " The Medford Public Library," and so it has since been known. It contains about 12,000 volumes. It has received numerous gifts in books as well as in bequests. The portraits, with the exception of that of Thatcher Magoun, 2d, were also gifts from individuals : the Thatcher Magoun, the elder, made from an old painting, coming from his son ; the Governor Brooks (dating from 1818, by Frothing- ham of Charlestown), coming from Mrs. Dudley Hale in 18G8 ; the Burbank and the Stevens from General Samuel C. Lawrence. The Thatcher Magoun, 2d, was ordered by the town and painted by Harvey Young of Boston. The crayon of Whittier was by William A. Thompson. Wasson's " Cradock House " was given by Colonel Norwood P. Hallowell, and the Chocorua by John E. Richards. The Savings Bank at the approach to the Square occupies the site of the house of Governor John Brooks, where he lived for many years, and died in 1825. Medford Square was originally the market-place, the centre of the town. It is yet the centre where the early public roads, the great highways to the surround- ing country, vinite, and where the municipal offices are established ; but no longer the common centre for all Medford. Nearly all of its long-cherished landmarks have disappeared. There are still standing, however, one or two interesting structures of the Pro- vincial period, and within its immediate neighborhood is an an- MEDFORD. 93 cient garrison house dating from the earliest days of the Colony. The old brick mansion-house on the north side of the Square, with side walls rising above the roof after tlie fashion of colonial times, dates from the middle of the eighteenth century. This was orig- nially the dwelling of Tliomas Secomb, who is memorable as the founder of the first fund for the benefit of the poor and needy of the town, which became the basis of the substantial ''Secomb Charities," now administered by the city authorities. In after years the house was transformed into a tavern, long known as "Simpson's ; " and it suffered varying fortunes until the town be- came a city, when it was restored and taken for city uses. The Old Garrison House. old Garrison house in Pasture Hill lane, near by, was the third house in the plantation, built before IGiO by Major Jonathan Wade, and was first called a fort. It was originally but half its present size, the addition having been made in the latter part of the last century. The brick walls of the older part, exceptionally thick and stout, are pierced with " port-holes ; " and it is strongly built throughout to resist attack. Fortunate in its owners, it is well preserved, and is yet a comfortable dwelling. The interior is most interesting, and its occupants courteously open it to appre- ciative visitors. The Main Street approach to the Square from South Street, 94 MEDFORD, where we turned to walk around the river and enter by High Street, is the okl business thoroughfare upon which are the prin- cipal shops, mostly in quaint old buildings. Main Street was the first public road laid out in the settlement, and at first led from "The Ford" to Boston. The present Cradock Bridge, which carries over the river an arch of stone, bearing the dates 1638- 1880, is near, though not directly on the site of the first bridge built by the settlers and the only bridge in the place over the Mystic for public travel until 1754. The view up and down the river from its side walls is pleasing. Salem Street, starting from the northeast side of the Square, and leading to Maiden, was the second highway laid out by the town ; High Street to Arlington^ as already stated, was the third ; and Forest Street, opening from the north side, leading to Stoneham "through the woods," the fourth. Forest Street, with its long lines of majestic elms and border of attractive estates, the stateliest of these old roads, is the Medford entrance to the Middlesex Fells by way of Pine Hill. [See Walk No. 9.] This hill is the highest elevation in the range known as " the Rocks," about a mile from the Square, and marks the northern boundary of the city. Leaving the Square by Forest Street we soon get a good view, across the fields on the left, of Pasture Hill, the sightliest point of which, overlooking the lovely valley of the Mystic, is occupied by the picturesque club-house of the Medford Club. Continuing along Forest Street until Water Street, at the right, is reached, we may turn here, take Ashland Street at the right, follow this street back toward the Square, and come out on Salem Street, a stone's throw above the Square. By this course one of the fairest of the older residential sections of the place is traversed, and an excellent idea obtained of what Medford was in the old days of town-life, for here, notably on Ashland Street, is a delightful mixture of ancient and modern in the style of the houses and of their grounds. Beyond Water Street the way along Forest Street soon becomes more rural, the roadway presently narrowing and making pictur- esque turns, and the walk may be extended, if we prefer, to Pine Hill on the one side, and Wright's Pond on the other. There is no more inviting region in these parts, but it should be reserved for the outing in the Fells, to which a full day may with profit be devoted. On Salem Street just below Ashland Street, on the opposite side, is the ancient burying-ground, the earliest known in the town, a picturesque though neglected spot, inclosed by a low stone wall under which the tombs extend. It contains the graves of a num- ber of the early settlers and of old Medford families. Here are MEDFORD. 95 entombed Governor John Brooks, distinguished as soldier and civilian ; the Rev, Aaron Porter, the first settled minister of Med- ford ; Deacon John Wliitmore, one of the earliest settlers, and other members of the Wliitmore family ; Simon Tufts, the first physician of the town, and numerous members of the Tufts, the ^Villis, and the Wade families. The oldest gravestone bears date of 1684, One ancieiit stone, six inches thick, records the death of George Willis, aged ninety, in 1G90. He was one of the early settlers near Cambridge, where he lived for sixty years. One stone in the Wliitmore group is dated 1085, — that by the grave of Francis Wliitmore, who died at the age of sixty-two. Deacon John Whitmore reached eighty-seven years of age. There are few epi- taphs in this graveyard, and but a single monument, — the granite shaft over the tomb of Governor Brooks. Its modest inscription 'a'lt^JO^^