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 CQEffilGHT DEPOSm 
 
A SUMMER 
 
 IN 
 
 NORTHERN LANDS 
 
Our Captain 
 
A SUMMER 
 
 IN 
 
 NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 THE JOURNAL OF A 
 TRIP TO SCANDINAVIA 
 
 By 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM HAMILTON 
 
 Illustrated 
 
 WITH PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY 
 RAPHAEL and MARIAN HAMILTON 
 
 DAVID D. NICKERSON & CO. 
 
 BOSTON 
 

 COP V RIGHT 1922 BY 
 
 CHARLES W. HAMILTON 
 
 AM, RIGHTS RESERVKiy 
 
 m 20 1922 
 
 CIA654693 
 
Trondhjem Cathedral 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Our Captain 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 Trondhjem Cathedral 
 
 back of title 
 
 Farewell to New York 
 
 Facing Page 2 
 
 Off the Shetland Islands 
 
 4 
 
 Bergen 
 
 6 
 
 S. S. "Kristianiafjord" at Stavanger 8 
 
 Stavanger 
 
 10 
 
 Stavanger Cathedral 
 
 12 
 
 A Norwegian Lighthouse 
 
 14 
 
 Christiansand 
 
 16 
 
 Saetersdal Peasants 
 
 18 
 
 A Song of Welcome 
 
 20 
 
 Fortress of Akershus 
 
 22 
 
 Karl- JoH a Ns- Gade 
 
 24 
 
 The Captain's Boat 
 
 26 
 
 Christiana Fjord 
 
 28 
 
 Lake Mjosen 
 
 30 
 
 Ruins of Hamar Cathedral 
 
 32 
 
 At Stueflaaten 
 
 34 
 
 The Romsdalshorn 
 
 36 
 
 Aandalsnaes 
 
 38 
 
 Passing Munkholm 
 
 40 
 
 St. Olaf's Shrine 
 
 42 
 
 The Hullet 
 
 44 
 
 Svartisen 
 
 46 
 
 Svolvaer 
 
 48 
 
 Raftsund 
 
 50 
 
 Troldfjord 
 
 52 
 
 Lapp in Reindeer Sled 
 
 54 
 
 North Cape 
 
 56 
 
 Family of Lapps 
 
 58 
 
 In Vardo Harbor 
 
 60 
 
Boris-Gleb Facing Page 62 
 
 Landing at Hammerfest 64 
 
 Bridge of S. S. Haakon Jarl 66 
 
 torghatten 68 
 
 S. S. Haakon Jarl 70 
 
 Trondhjem's Wharves 72 
 
 Christianssund Harbor 74 
 
 MOLDE 76 
 
 SOHOLT 78 
 
 Geiranger Fjord 80 
 
 Marok 82 
 
 On the Road to Grotlid 84 
 
 A Reindeer Herd 86 
 
 Langevand 88 
 
 Sandene 90 
 
 Very Popular 92 
 
 Statue of Frithjof 94 
 
 BoRGUND Stavekirke 96 
 
 Gudvangen 98 
 
 View from Stalheim 100 
 
 A Stolkjaerre 102 
 
 Vossevangen 104 
 
 Hay Cart 106 
 
 Skjervefos 108 
 
 Aabo-Elv, Odda 110 
 
 Hardanger Girls 112 
 
 Northern Museum, Stockholm 114 
 
 View of Stockholm 116 
 
 Upsala Cathedral 118 
 
 Royal Palace, Stockholm 120 
 
 The Walls of Wisby 122 
 
 WisBY from the Sea 124 
 
 Fishing Station 126 
 
 Stor-Torg, Kalmar 128 
 
 Castle of Kalmar 130 
 
 Royal Palace, Copenhagan 132 
 
 Danish Soldiers 134 
 
Castle of Kronborg Facing Page 136 
 
 Danish Farm 138 
 
 A Herring Boat 140 
 
 Kiel 142 
 
 HoLSTEiN Farm 144 
 
 LuBECK Cathedral 146 
 
 Hamburg 148 
 
 Hanover 150 
 
 Royal Palace, Hanover 152 
 
 HiLDESHEIM 154 
 
 The 1000 Year Rose-Tree 156 
 
 Cathedral, Brunswick 158 
 
 Frederick Museum, Berlin 160 
 
 ZwiNGER, Dresden 162 
 
 River Elbe, Dresden 164 
 
 Teynkirche, Prague 166 
 
 Charles Bridge, Prague 168 
 
 The Hradcany, Prague 170 
 
 Arctic Farj^s 172 
 
 Elvesaes 174 
 
 An Arctic Harbor 176 
 
 In Munich 178 
 
 Strassburg 180 
 
 Arc de Triomphe, Paris 182 
 
 At the Arctic Circle 184 
 
 Boat Drill 186 
 
t>REFACE. 
 
 As an inducement for others to "go and do 
 likewise," I have allowed this journal to be 
 published. There is nothing new or original 
 in it. It merely serves as an accompaniment 
 to some excellent photographs, and recalls a 
 very happy summer spent in the places de- 
 scribed. As it was written on the spot, most 
 of the descriptions and facts stated are as 
 accurate as an observer, without books of 
 reference, can make them; however, if per- 
 chance, misstatements have crept in, they are 
 entirely unintentional on the part of the 
 
 Author. 
 
Farewell to New York 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Sunday, June 22. 
 Although the weather had been extremely 
 hot for a week past, it began to rain soon 
 after the train pulled out of Omaha and the 
 storm kept with us for twenty-four hours 
 until we were well into the State of Ohio. 
 That made tolerable what would otherwise 
 have been a hot and dusty journey. On 
 reaching New York City this afternoon, we 
 took taxi-cabs and came to the Seville Hotel, 
 where we now are located in pleasant rooms 
 away up on the 'steenth floor, where there is 
 an extensive view and plenty of air; and as 
 each apartment has a bath-room connected, 
 you can easily imagine how we have spent the 
 time since our arrival. 
 
 Monday, June 23. 
 
 This morning I took a walk up Fifth 
 Avenue to see what changes have taken place 
 since my last visit to New York. When the 
 New Library Building was reached, never 
 having been inside, I entered to investigate. 
 On the top floor there is quite a collection of 
 paintings in several large galleries. Some of 
 the pictures are good, but most belong to the 
 **has been famous school." On the first 
 
4 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 floor there is a room that contains a number 
 of portraits of North American Indians, but, 
 as there were none of my personal friends 
 in the bunch, they did not interest me. I 
 forgot to look for books, but suppose there 
 are a few hidden away somewhere in the 
 building. The earlier half of the afternoon 
 was spent hunting for a laundry bag, which> 
 when found, was of goodly size, somewhat 
 after the style of a mail pouch, brass trimmed 
 and with a padlock. Then, a search was 
 made for a carrying case, that would fit 
 Marian's Kodak. Never before had I real- 
 ized that there were so many varieties of 
 Kodaks. Half a dozen places where they had 
 cases for sale were visited, but none from all 
 the various stocks would fit that camera and, 
 finally, a trip down to the Eastman Kodak 
 Go's warehouse had to be made, to get what 
 was wanted. It took so long that when I 
 got back, my family accused me of going on 
 a lark by myself. 
 
 . :; Tuesday, June 24. 
 
 At ten o'clock this morning we took an 
 auto for the Forty-fifth Street dock in Brook- 
 lyn, from which inconvenient point our 
 steamer, the "Kristlaniafjord" sails. Passing 
 down through the crowded streets of New 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 5 
 
 York to the Battery, we boarded the Thirty- 
 ninth Street Ferry, which landed us within 
 sight of our steamer, but the auto had to go 
 around several blocks of warehouses before 
 we reached the pier, down which our chauf- 
 feur raced his car, much to our alarm, until 
 we came opposite the gangway that led to the 
 steamer's deck. However, it was only after 
 we had dismissed the auto that our troubles 
 really began. Our hand luggage, which we 
 had brought with us, was turned over to the 
 stewards of the steamer and quickly dis- 
 appeared; but before they would allow us to 
 follow it aboard, our tickets had to be au- 
 dited at a small office near the pier-head, 
 where there was a dense crowd of people 
 waiting. After passing through that ordeal, 
 it was necessary to hunt up our trunks, which, 
 although they had been checked through to 
 the dock, labeled with our names and the 
 numbers of our cabins, could not, it seemed, 
 be put aboard until personally identified and 
 turned over by us to the men that were to 
 stow them in the cabin. This part of the 
 business seemed to be rather poorly man- 
 aged. When we finally got aboard, we found 
 our staterooms very comfortable and in them 
 were a number of letters and telegrams, with 
 some flowers and a beautiful basket of fruit 
 
6 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 that dear friends had been thoughtful enough 
 to send. Our boat is new and clean but rather 
 small. As this is her first voyage, and as the 
 Norwegians are very patriotic and take great 
 pride in the establishing of a steamship line 
 between their country and America, many 
 visitors are aboard, who are rushing all over 
 the ship and making it uncomfortable for the 
 regular passengers. We were to sail at one 
 o'clock, but did not get away until after three, 
 consequently lunch was late, also, dinner. 
 Here is hoping that after one or two voyages 
 the novelty will wear off and things run more 
 smoothly. Several tugs, excursion boats, and 
 yachts accompanied us down the bay and we 
 passengers derived considerable amusement 
 from watching the lowering, by means of a 
 rope, of some belated visitors, among them a 
 rather stout woman, to the deck of a tug-boat 
 that was called alongside. 
 
 Wednesday, June 25. 
 
 Today is bright and the sea smooth, conse- 
 quently all the passengers are on deck. Most 
 of them are Norwegians or of Norwegian 
 descent, but there are a few Americans 
 aboard. The dining saloon is supplied with a 
 number of small tables, but all were taken by 
 the time I got around, so we were placed at 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 7 
 
 the Captain's table, which seats about a 
 dozen persons. Shortly after lunch we en- 
 countered a fleet of sailing vessels bound 
 south, and while ahead watching them, I 
 made the acquaintance of a Norwegian 
 gentleman named Stephensen, Captain of the 
 Port of Christiania. He is a very agreeable 
 man and speaks English quite well. In the 
 afternoon, while leaning over the rail, I saw 
 a large shark swimming away from the ship. 
 It looked like the big sand sharks my boys 
 used to catch in Vineyard Sound near Horse- 
 shoe Shoal. Towards evening there were 
 some black clouds hovering about but, be- 
 fore sunset they disappeared. One thing 
 about this ship I do not like is the arrange- 
 ment of the windows in the state rooms on 
 the promenade deck. They are nice, big, 
 square ones, but can't be opened. To be sure 
 the ship has a very elaborate system of ventil- 
 ation, by which the air is drawn through 
 tanks where it may be either heated or 
 cooled, and from which it is distributed by 
 means of pipes to the state rooms, but there 
 is nothing like an open window at sea in fine 
 weather; and even on the lower decks they 
 can keep open the port-holes most of the 
 time. 
 
8 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Thursday, June 26. 
 The sea is a little rough this morning, 
 so naturally Maud and Marian are not feel- 
 ing their very best. About midday we passed 
 a small steamer that was headed west. We 
 are well supplied with sea-captains. Besides 
 the one in command of the ship, there are 
 six among the passengers and it is quite inter- 
 esting to listen when they get to talking in 
 the smoking room. Telling of *' Rolling 
 Down to Rio" or about "The Good Ship, 
 Mary Ann." However, Captain Doxrude, 
 who could probably tell the best tale of any, 
 seldom speaks. I understand he has crossed 
 the Atlantic as a captain for nearly a quarter 
 of a century and mostly in command of 
 steamers of the Red Star Line. The meals 
 served on this boat are wholesome if not 
 elaborate. The Bill of Fare at dinner today 
 was, 
 
 Soup Parmantiere 
 
 Consomme Paysanne 
 Boiled Striped Bass Buttersauce 
 
 Rissolles Lamb Saute Navarin 
 
 Roast Turkey Sweet Corn 
 Stewed Prunes Mixed Salad 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream 
 Fruit Dessert Coffee 
 
 I 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 9 
 
 Which, with a bottle of Cantenac Brown, 
 1904, at 3 krs., or Rudesheimer, at 5 krs., 
 certainly should prevent starvation. As 
 printed in the Norwegian language some of 
 the dishes read, "Afkog Bass Smorsauce" 
 and *'Stegt Kalkun Corn." 
 
 Friday, June 27. 
 
 The ocean has smoothed down a bit. In 
 the morning we passed a west bound steamer 
 of the Red Star Line. They say it was the 
 "Gothland." Towards evening we were off 
 the New Foundland Banks and it turned cold. 
 About sunset we saw a schooner away off to 
 the north and it certainly did look lonesome. 
 Probably from now on we shall see but few 
 ships until we are well across the Atlantic. 
 Norway, the land of wonderful scenery, the 
 home of the Vikings, the Lapps, and reindeer, 
 is not a large country, for, while it is a thou- 
 sand miles in length, it is quite narrow, aver- 
 aging only one hundred and seventy miles in 
 width, and with a total area, including 
 Islands, of 124,130 square miles or a little 
 more than Wisconsin and Minnesota com- 
 bined. Of this total area seventy-five per 
 cent Is unproductive, twenty-two per cent is 
 covered by forests and but three per cent is 
 under cultivation. The principal crops are 
 
10 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 oats, barley, rye, wheat, pulse, and potatoes. 
 Norway imports far more agricultural prod- 
 ucts than it exports, and for that reason our 
 good ship carries six thousand tons of flour 
 as part of her cargo. Sheep, cattle, horses, 
 goats, reindeer, and swine are the domestic 
 animals raised, and their value stands in the 
 order named. The forest area is 26,320 
 square miles, of which seventy per cent is 
 pine, so, naturally, the timber trade is exten- 
 sive. The coast line, exclusive of fjords and 
 bays, is 3,018 miles, and most of it is marked 
 by magnificent cliffs, whose steep sides seem 
 to forbid entrance to the land they protect 
 from all outlying forces. Numberless little 
 islandsliealongthe shores, and into the main- 
 land, like flooded valleys, extend the narrow 
 fjords. With all this sea coast, naturally the 
 fisheries are extensive, over 100,000 persons 
 being employed. The chief varieties of fish 
 taken are cod, herring, mackerel, salmon, 
 sea-trout, and lobsters. The mining indus- 
 tries, which might be expected to be extensive 
 in so mountainous a country, are unimpor- 
 tant, the chief minerals produced being sil- 
 ver, copper, pyrites, apatite, and feldspar. 
 Norway has only about twelve hundred 
 miles of railroads and on account of the 
 mountainous nature of the country the cost 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 11 
 
 of construction is very high, but owing to 
 the numerous fjords, by which boats can 
 penetrate far into the country, this apparent 
 lack of railroads is not such a disadvantage 
 as it would be in most countries. I got most 
 of these facts from a gazetteer I found in 
 the smoking room. 
 
 Saturday, June 28. 
 
 Today the sea is smooth and most of the 
 passengers are up on deck enjoying the beauti- 
 ful weather. The commander of our ship. 
 Captain Hiortdahl, is a fine looking, young 
 Norwegian; tall, with light hair, blue eyes, 
 and a strong, handsome face. I have been 
 told he commanded a Japanese ship during 
 the late Russian- Japanese War. Even so, he 
 cannot now be past forty years of age. 
 
 Sunday, June 29. 
 We had a sacred concert this afternoon, 
 given by a Choir from St. Olaf's College, 
 Northfield, Minn. The members of the 
 choir, nearly fifty in number and of whom 
 two-thirds are young women, have contrib- 
 uted fifty dollars apiece to a common fund 
 and it is expected that the rest of the ex- 
 penses will be paid from the proceeds of con- 
 certs they will give while in Norway. Of 
 
12 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 course they travel as second cabin passengers, 
 but there is a good deal of first class talent 
 among them. 
 
 Monday, June 30. 
 
 There has been considerable fog today. 
 During the evening there was an attempt 
 to give a concert in the First Class Saloon. 
 Several clever stunts were given by some of 
 the gentlemen and then a celebrated Norwe- 
 gian Prima-Donna from the "Land of Sky- 
 blue Water" sang a couple of songs in a 
 charming manner, but before the program 
 was half completed the function was stopped, 
 by order of the captain, as the music inter- 
 fered with locating a fog-signal that could be 
 heard somewhere ahead. Most of the pas- 
 sengers adjourned to the deck and stood in 
 silence, listening to the wailing signals from a 
 steamer that passed us to port. Our wireless 
 operator later told me it was the steamship 
 "Hellig Olav" of the Scandinavian-Ameri- 
 can Line that was passing. 
 
 Tuesday, July i. 
 Another fine day and as a result we are 
 having the usual athletic sports that always 
 serve for entertainment on one of the later 
 days of a Trans-Atlantic voyage. Marian 
 won first place in the hobbled-skirt race, and 
 
Stavanger Cathedral 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS .13 
 
 a gentleman, Mr. Ericson of Chicago, who 
 is quite a good talker, made a pretty speech 
 and presented her with a bunch of roses as 
 a reward for her success. This evening, while 
 we were seated in the after shelter, a Norwe- 
 gian gentleman told how the late election at 
 Bergen was carried in favor of a kingdom. 
 He said it was arranged that those in favor 
 of a monarchical form of government were 
 to vote, "Yes," while those in favor of a 
 republic were to vote "No." The merchants 
 of Bergen were in favor of a kingdom but the 
 fishermen of the neighborhood, who were 
 greatly in the majority, were for a republic. 
 Now, in Norway at that time, electric signs 
 were a novelty, so the monarchical party 
 leaders, who were clever, quietly fixed up an 
 immense electric sign on the mountain side 
 back of Bergen that read "Yes," and then on 
 the night before the election, turned on the 
 "juice." Naturally, the poor, ignorant fisher- 
 men, coming home in their boats after dark 
 to vote on the all important question next 
 day, beheld this mysterious, fiery wonder in 
 the sky, and, believing it to be a divine com- 
 mand, voted accordingly. 
 
 Wednesday, July 2. 
 Today we had the captain's dinner. It 
 
14 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 was a very elaborate meal, and, of course, 
 everybody bought wine, but the captain did 
 not appear at table. Later he told me that he 
 was so tired from being up at night, on ac- 
 count of fog, that he had overslept at dinner 
 time. After the meal some of the passengers 
 danced on the rear boat-deck and several of 
 them were very good dancers indeed, doing 
 all the latest fancy steps. 
 
 Thursday, July 3. 
 
 Just after breakfast we sighted one of the 
 northernmost of the Shetland Islands. A 
 high rocky piece of land with green fields 
 sloping down to the sea on the east, but with 
 its peaks shrouded in purple mist to the west 
 and south. Possibly, if we had been nearer, 
 we might have seen some of the ponies. Dur- 
 ing the day we passed several large yawls, 
 probably fishing boats; and late in the after- 
 noon, a small Danish steamer that dipped 
 her colors. About ten o'clock in the evening 
 we nearly ran onto a rock. It was not much 
 larger than a hay stack and we only missed it 
 in the fog by a hundred yards. As we were 
 going ahead very slowly, we had time to back 
 before we reached others that suddenly ap- 
 peared ahead. Then we came about, stopped, 
 and kept whistling for a pilot. Finally, about 
 
^, 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 15 
 
 midnight, we picked up one. He had been 
 trying to reach us, in a small boat, for over 
 two hours, and told us we were seven Norwe- 
 gian miles north of the entrance to Bergen- 
 f jord. Later we picked up the regular Ber- 
 gen pilot, but before that, I had gone to 
 sleep. 
 
 Friday, July 4. 
 This morning on awaking, we found our 
 ship at anchor in the Puddef jord with Bergen 
 close at hand. The sun was shining brightly 
 and as a ferry boat was alongside to take 
 passengers ashore after breakfast, I decided 
 to take advantage of the opportunity. So, 
 collecting my family and rushing them in to 
 the meal, the next time the little boat came 
 alongside we were ready to board her and 
 half an hour later were at Thomas Cook & 
 Son's Office, where we stopped just long 
 enough to get some Norwegian money. Then 
 we walked to the Telegraph office and cabled 
 home, "Arrived safe and well." From the 
 office we crossed to the "Fish Market," one 
 of the sights of Bergen. On an open wharf 
 are a number of tanks supplied with running 
 sea-water, in which the fishermen and dealers 
 keep their stock alive. It was quite amusing 
 to watch an old woman come along with her 
 
16 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 basket on her arm, and point out a fish in the 
 tank that she fancied. The dealer would 
 scoop out the victim with a hand net and drop 
 it flopping on the counter before her. She 
 would carefully examine it and bargain with 
 the man over the price, and if it was not fresh 
 enough, or the price was considered too high, 
 she would shake her head and it was tossed 
 back into the tank. If on the other hand it 
 was satisfactory, the man killed the fish by 
 cutting it below the gills, and, after putting 
 it in the woman's basket, would pocket the 
 price with a bow and a grin of satisfaction. 
 I noticed one old lady, who purchased three 
 large fish for twenty-five ore, about seven 
 cents. From the Fish Market we went to the 
 Hanseatic Museum, an interesting relic of the 
 time when Bergen was inhabited by the mer- 
 chants of the Hanseatic League. It is an 
 ancient, timber-built, ware-house, of several 
 stories, the upper parts of which were used 
 for a residence by the merchant and his ap- 
 prentices. In the queer old rooms are shown 
 the furniture and household articles they 
 used, together with some of the scales, 
 weights, and other equipments of the ware- 
 house. After inspecting this relic of ancient 
 times, we walked along the German Quay 
 until we came to the Rosenkrants Tower, 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 17 
 
 first built in the thirteenth century, extended 
 by Rosenkrants in 1567 and restored in 1848. 
 Probably owing to the thoroughness with 
 which the work was done, it looks quite mod- 
 ern. We ascended to the roof, from which 
 we had a fine view of the town. Near by is 
 the "Maria Kirke," erected in the twelfth 
 century and enlarged a hundred years later. 
 From 1408 to 1766 it was the church of the 
 German Merchants. The nave is Romanesque 
 but the choir is Gothic. The altar dates 
 from pre-reformation times, but the pulpit 
 is of the seventeenth century. Both are elab- 
 orately decorated with wood carving. That 
 on the altar-back is especially fine. In the 
 center is the Virgin and Child, with, on the 
 right, St. Olaf and St. Anthony; on the left, 
 St. Catherine and St. Dorothy. In the wings, 
 are the twelve Apostles. On the back of the 
 wings are paintings of the Last Supper and a 
 priest offering Mass. The carving on the 
 pulpit is allegorical and, while well done, is 
 rather heathenish in conception. At Maud's 
 suggestion we crossed the town to St. John's 
 Church to see Gronvold's famous painting, 
 "Christ in the Desert," v/hich hangs behind 
 the high-altar, but when we arrived at the 
 church we found it tightly locked and we were 
 unable to gain admission. Retracing our 
 
18 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Steps, we paused to look at the Ole Bull 
 statue that stands in the little park in front 
 of the Hotel Norga, and then suddenly every 
 member of the party became extremely hun- 
 gry. I led the charge on the hotel, but the 
 porter met us at the front door and told us 
 dinner would not be served for two hours, 
 so we made a flank movement around the 
 corner to the Cafe Boulevard and took what 
 we could get. 
 
 Saturday, July 5. 
 
 Got up late this morning, but had time to 
 visit the Cathedral, the Museiun of Industrial 
 Art, and the Picture Gallery before we sailed 
 for Stavanger at two o'clock in the afternoon. 
 Our ship followed the inside route going 
 south and, as the day was fine, we enjoyed the 
 trip immensely. The passage is between the 
 mainland and the numerous rocky islands 
 called the **Skjaergaard** and all the way in 
 sheltered water. As the atmosphere was very 
 clear we not only could see the islands and 
 near by mainland, but also the far distant 
 mountains of the interior with their vast snow 
 fields. At Haugesund some of our Norwe- 
 gian friends pointed out the Harald's Stotte, 
 an obelisk of red granite fifty-six feet high, 
 on a square pedestal, surrounded by twenty 
 
Ph 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 19 
 
 Stones, nine feet high, that commemorates 
 his conquest of the old Norse tribes. It was 
 erected in 1872, on the thousandth anniver- 
 sary of Harald's victory, by which he became 
 sole sovereign and was released from a vow, 
 taken ten years before, not to cut his hair 
 until he should be king of all Norway. 
 
 Towards the end of the eighth century the 
 Norwegian Vikings began their predatory ex- 
 peditions. At first they visited other coun- 
 tries only for plunder, their own country 
 being governed by numerous petty rulers until 
 the close of the ninth century. Then the 
 above mentioned "Harald Haarfager'* (Fair- 
 haired) , succeeded in subduing all the jarls or 
 earls and became master of Norway. Some 
 of the chiefs were exiled and others fled from 
 the country, rather than submit to any one 
 man*s rule. Between 870 and 890 a number 
 of them removed to Iceland, which had been 
 discovered by the Norsemen some years be- 
 fore and was uninhabited, save by a few set- 
 tlers who had gone there from Ireland. To 
 escape the taxation, which was necessary to 
 support an organized government, many pea- 
 sants and fishermen also emigrated to the 
 Orkney, Shetland and Hebrides islands. 
 While this process of consolidation was going 
 on, some of the savage exiles descended upon 
 
20 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 the shores of France and founded the Duchy 
 of Normandy. It was over a century later 
 before Norway became firmly established as 
 a kingdom ; for not only did the exiled chiefs 
 and their descendants frequently return to 
 vex the struggling monarchs, but the Danish 
 Kings were prone to interfere in the internal 
 affairs of Norway. After a century of civil 
 strife, Olaf the Saint became king and intro- 
 duced the Christian religion. Canute the 
 Great in 1028 drove Olaf from the kingdom, 
 but after the death of Canute, Norway was 
 ruled by its own kings until 13 19, when King 
 Haakon died. His only child, a daughter, 
 married the King of Sweden and the two 
 countries were united for a time. Magnus, 
 the son of this Norwegian princess, lost Swe- 
 den but retained Norway, and his son, Haa- 
 kon, in 1363 married Margaret, the heiress 
 to the Danish throne; thus Denmark and 
 Norway were united until 18 14, when the 
 union of Norway and Sweden occurred. The 
 subsequent history of Norway is identified 
 with that of Sweden until 1905. Discontent, 
 caused by lack of a separate consular service, 
 culminated that year in an agreement for the 
 repeal of the union. Prince Karl, second son 
 of Frederick VII, of Denmark, was formerly 
 elected King of Norway and in 1906, as King 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 21 
 
 Haakon VII, was crowned at Trondhjem. So 
 ends our lesson in history. After passing 
 Haugesund the channel becomes very narrow, 
 not over one hundred yards wide, but the 
 captain told me it was over three hundred 
 fathoms deep, or to make a comparison, three 
 ship like ours standing end wise, one above 
 the other, would not reach the surface of the 
 water. About nine o'clock in the evening, 
 we arrived at Stavanger, where thousands of 
 people waited to welcome our ship, which ran 
 up alongside the stone quay, just as easily as 
 though it had been a tug-boat. The sun was 
 setting and the water front was black with 
 the crowd, but either because it was Sunday 
 eve, or owing to the fact that the Norwe- 
 gians are undemonstrative, they were very 
 quiet and orderly. 
 
 Sunday, July 6. 
 Stavanger is one of the oldest towns in 
 Norway, but it has suffered so frequently 
 from fire that most of the houses are mod- 
 ern. The Cathedral, a fine old temple, was 
 founded by the English Bishop Reinald to- 
 wards the end of the eleventh century and is 
 dedicated to an Englishman, St. Swithin 
 (Suetonius, bishop of Winchester, died, 
 862). The interior seemed rather dark and 
 
22 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 somber, but the exterior, especially the choir, 
 is quite handsome. Back of the church is a 
 pretty little lake, that seems to be a popular 
 resort for wild fowls, which speaks well for 
 the humane training of the lads of Stavanger. 
 We have had a fine chance to see the town, as 
 our ship was detained all day unloading 
 "oleo" and flour. The principal industry of 
 this place seems to be the canning of fish, and 
 from here come the various delicacies of 
 which the herring forms a principal part. 
 Smoked herrings, pickled herrings, and little 
 herrings masqueraded as all sorts of sardines 
 and anchovies. Shortly after supper we 
 sailed out of the harbor and soon were pass- 
 ing the low, sandy coast of Jaederen, a danger- 
 ous neighborhood for ships, as the numerous 
 light houses attest. At one time, three were 
 in sight, but at this season of the year there 
 are no lamps burning, for it is light enough 
 to see at midnight, and a friend tells me that 
 the light house keepers have all gone on their 
 annual vacations. 
 
 Monday, July 7. 
 When we went on deck this morning we 
 found we were in the beautiful harbor of 
 Christiansand, which, evidently, is not so 
 deep as that of Stavanger, for our ship had 
 to anchor quite a way from the town and un- 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 23 
 
 load her freight onto lighters. The harbor, 
 however, seems to be well sheltered from the 
 weather and is amply defended by forts. As 
 soon as possible after breakfast we went 
 ashore in a motor boat. There was not much 
 to see in the town, but we were interested in 
 watching the peasants from the Saetersdal, a 
 number of whom were walking about the 
 streets. The men wore leather trousers that 
 came well up under their arm-pits, short em- 
 broidered vests and, to top off, queer, little, 
 black pill-box hats. But it was the women, 
 as usual, who wore the most striking cos- 
 tumes. The skirt, which was very short and 
 full, was of black stuff, trimmed around the 
 bottom with a wide band of red. At the 
 place where their waists should be was a 
 broad leather belt, and their ample lirabs 
 were encased in thick woolen stockings, blue 
 or black in color. Above the low cut waist 
 of the dress, which has no sleeves, the upper 
 part of the body is covered by a white, under 
 garment with big puffed sleeves that are con- 
 fined by tight fitting cuffs at the wrists. The 
 Saetersdal people are a tall, strongly built 
 race, and seem to cling to old time habits with 
 great tenacity. During the afternoon we 
 took an auto-ride to a park called, if I am not 
 mistaken, the "Ravnefjeld." 
 
24 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Tuesday, July 8. 
 
 On our arrival at Christiania, Captain 
 Stephensen met the steamer in his boat, came 
 aboard and, from the bridge, superintended 
 her docking, which was accomplished to the 
 music of an ode of welcome, sung by a large 
 choir. I can imagine that the Captain would 
 have preferred to dispense with the music as 
 it rather drowned his commands, but he said 
 nothing against it. After the ship was fast 
 to the quay, he came and assisted me to get 
 our baggage passed through the Custom 
 House and then took us in his boat to a land- 
 ing near the Continental Hotel, where he 
 helped us select rooms. For luncheon we 
 had some delicious strawberries I I spent the 
 afternoon at Bennett's making arrangements 
 for our North Cape trip. They say It is get- 
 ting late for going to the North Cape : cer- 
 tainly accommodations on the steamers seem 
 to be scarce and high priced. While walking 
 on the Karl-Johans-Gade, I met the little 
 Prima-Donna who came over on the steamer 
 with us. She left the ship at Bergen, coming 
 on by rail. I had hardly spoken half a dozen 
 words to her while on ship-board, but when 
 she saw me she hailed me like an old friend 
 and we had quite a pleasant little chat. I was 
 
~^*^^"| \jLj'-^^^^^*tm I Ki^,. 
 
 o 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 25 
 
 glad to see her. She looked prettier than 
 ever and seemed to be enjoying herself im- 
 mensely. 
 
 Wednesday, July 9. 
 
 We can't get accommodations on the 
 steamer "Sverre Sigurdsson," which sails 
 from Trondhjem on next Monday for 
 the North Cape, so I have had them 
 wire to see what they can secure on the 
 "Haakon Jarl," that sails a week later. 
 Of course these are mail boats, not "Ex- 
 cursion Steamers," but I think if we 
 travel as the Norwegians do, we will, in that 
 way, see more of the people and of their 
 country. After we had sent the telegram, 
 the boys and I went down to take a look at 
 the "Haakon Jarl," which happens to be here 
 on her way north. We found nothing fancy 
 about her, but she looked sea-worthy and 
 fairly clean. In the afternooni Captain 
 Stephensen called and we went down to the 
 Piperviken pier, where his boat was waiting. 
 He took us on a trip around among the is- 
 lands of the fjord, and afterwards he landed 
 at the Royal Yacht Club, where he insisted 
 on our partaking of a very nice luncheon, but, 
 as it was past three o'clock, it rather spoiled 
 our appetite for dinner. After the lunch we 
 
26 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 \^alked up to the Norsk Folkemuseum, an 
 open air show, where he saw old houses from 
 Sastersdal and Telemarken. In them were 
 their original furnishings, among which were 
 some quaint, old paintings of Biblical sub- 
 jects, done by peasant artists. We also saw 
 the Church of Gol, a "Staveklrke" or timber 
 built church of the twelfth century, first men- 
 tioned in 1309, brought here in 1884, and 
 since freely restored. With its dragon-head, 
 decorated gables and many pinnacles it looks 
 almost as though it was of Chinese origin. 
 There is also a church museum here that con- 
 tains carved and painted altar-pieces, pulpits 
 and organ-cases, mostly of the sixteenth and 
 seventeenth centuries. After kindly showing 
 us all these things, the Captain took us back 
 to the landing near our hotel. 
 
 Thursday, July 10. 
 It rained hard this morning, so we went to 
 see the Viking's Ship. Under a temporary 
 shed, in the grounds back of the University 
 Buildings, is the one discovered in 1889 at 
 Gogstad. It dates from the ninth century 
 and was found in a large mound known as 
 the Kongshaugen, where, according to tradi- 
 tion, a king, with all his treasures, was buried. 
 The custom of burying chiefs in a boat or 
 
EQ 
 
 U 
 
I 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 27 
 
 ship, which was sunk In the earth and covered 
 by a mound, was common during Viking times 
 in Norway. The smaller boats, which were 
 most frequently used, have generally decayed 
 so that only the rusted rivets are left as evi- 
 dence of the size and form of the vessels. 
 This ship, however, owing to the fact that 
 It was imbedded in potter's clay, is better 
 preserved than usual. Its length is seventy- 
 seven feet, breadth, sixteen feet. It is sharp 
 at both ends, rather long for its beam, and 
 has a fine run. It is clinker-built, of oak, 
 sixteen strakes high, riveted with wrought 
 iron nails, and was propelled by both sails 
 and oars, as is shown by the stub of a mast 
 and some oars that were found in the ship. 
 Back of the mast was a sepulchral chamber, 
 made of blocks of timber, placed like a roof 
 against a ridgeplate, the lower ends resting 
 on beams placed alongside the bulwarks, 
 which timbers were joined to others cross- 
 wise, supporting the end-walls, made of 
 planks. In this chamber, upon his couch, lay 
 the skeleton of the dead chief, but his treas- 
 ures had long since disappeared, for In the 
 forgotten past the place had been plundered, 
 as is shown by a yawning hole in the side of 
 the ship, through which the robbers entered. 
 Who the buried chieftain was, is unknown. 
 
28 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 but the Size of the mound and the grandeur (f 
 of the burial prove him to have been a man 
 of distinction. In another shed near by is a 
 better preserved, but smaller, ship found at 
 Oseberg. This, like the other, has been 
 robbed of its treasures, but in and about it 
 were found many objects of interest that are 
 now on exhibition in the Historical Museum. 
 Unlike the Gogstad ship, the Oseberg ship 
 is not a sea going vessel but more of a plea- 
 sure craft, the carved and painted barge of a 
 princess, and as might be expected, the two 
 skeletons found in it were both females, one, 
 that of the rich, distinguished woman over 
 whom the grave was raised, the other, prob- 
 ably that of a maid-servant who had to ac- 
 company her mistress in death. After in- 
 specting the ship we went to the Museum to 
 see the objects found with it. They were 
 quite numerous, but the most interesting of 
 all was an elaborately carved, four wheeled 
 wagon, to which are harnessed the mounted 
 skeletons of a pair of horses, or perhaps it 
 would be more accurate to say ponies, whose 
 bones were found in the mound near the ship. 
 This pony phaeton of a thousand years ago 
 would seem to indicate they had good roads 
 even at that early day in Norway. 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 29 
 
 Friday, July ii. 
 
 Maud, Marian, and I visited some of the 
 shops this morning. One of their specialties 
 here is beautiful, enameled jewelry and 
 silverware. We bought a few small pieces 
 to give to friends at home. Then we went 
 to the Art Gallery. It contains some very 
 fine paintings by Norwegian artists, but noth- 
 ing of importance by foreigners. In one 
 room are a number of pictures by J. C. C. 
 Dahl that are quite good. Edward Munch's 
 works are very modern in style and rather 
 disappointing. Hans Gude paints well and 
 especially worthy of notice are his "Chris- 
 tiania Fjord" and "Reindeer Hunter." Otto 
 Sinding chose for his subjects the majestic 
 scenery of the Lofoten Islands, and later on 
 we hope to see if he is true to nature. This 
 afternoon the boys and I went up to call on 
 Captain Stephensen. Found him at home 
 and after a short visit we all walked down 
 through the Palace Grounds. There are 
 beds of beautiful flowers in the grounds and 
 during the summer, the public is allowed to 
 enter freely, a privilege thoroughly enjoyed 
 by the people. 
 
 Our hotel is quite good, but lacks modern 
 plumbing. Maud and Marian have a room 
 that faces the Eidsvold-Plads and the Na- 
 
30 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 tional Theatre, and with a little practice they 
 might toss a laurel wreath upon the heads of 
 the colossal, bronze statues of Ibsen and 
 Bjornson that stand below their balcony. The 
 boys and I have rooms on the other side of 
 the house, facing the "Tivoli," a very popular 
 summer garden. This afternoon we went for 
 another trip on the fjord. It was a pleasant 
 day and we enjoyed the ride immensely. 
 Afterwards, Captain Stephensen dined with 
 us, and I hope he enjoyed the meal as much 
 as we did. 
 
 Sunday, July 13. 
 Went to Mass at St. Olaf's Church this 
 morning. The stained glass windows repre- 
 sent some saints whose names I have never 
 before heard. There was St. Eisfein, St. 
 Sunniva, St. Haljardus, St. Thorfinus, and St. 
 Olavus. The last, of course, is St. Olaf, 
 King of Norway, but who were the other 
 holy people? St. Sunniva is represented as 
 a fair maiden with "a crown upon her fore- 
 head," but lacking "a harp within her hands." 
 Instead, she carries a bunch of lilies and 
 wears a green mantle, all powdered with 
 golden shamrocks. Was she the daughter 
 of an Irish King? After lunch, we went up 
 to HolmenkoUen (1400 ft.), from which 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 31 
 
 point there is a fine view of the city of 
 Christiania and of the fjord. While the rest 
 of the family were partaking of light refresh- 
 ments on the terrace in front of the restau- 
 rant, I went on up to the Sanatorium in 
 search of a man, who came over in the ship 
 with us and that rumor says is sick and stop- 
 ping at that place, but I did not find him 
 there, nor at the neighboring Tourist Hotel. 
 In front of the latter I saw a lofty "bautas- 
 ten'* that commemorates a visit of Emperor 
 William II., and King Oscar II., to the place 
 on July 2, 1890, and yet we laugh at "John- 
 nie Green" for scribbling his name on the 
 face of the Town Hall clock. 
 
 Monday, July 14. 
 We left Christiania at eight o'clock this 
 morning and an hour later were at Eidsvold, 
 where we transfered to the steamboat that 
 plys Lake Mjosen, "Norway's inland sea," 
 which, the guide book tells us, "is sixty-two 
 miles long, about nine miles across at its 
 widest point and immensely deep" (1482 
 ft.). It lies between fertile regions that are 
 pleasing but rather tame. The first large 
 town passed was Hamar, near which are the 
 ruins of a cathedral that dates from 1152, 
 when a bishopric was founded here by the 
 
32 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 papal nuncio, Nicholas Breakspeare, an Eng- 
 lishman, afterwards Pope Adrian IV. It 
 was destroyed by the^Swedes in 1567, but the 
 four remaining round arches of the nave, rest- 
 ing on massive piers, are most picturesque. 
 Passing Gjovik, a small town on the western 
 shore of the lake, that is a railway terminus, 
 we at last came to Lillehammer, at the upper 
 end of "Norway's Inland sea." The ride on 
 the boat was delightful, not the least attrac- 
 tive part of it being the dinner aboard, at 
 which we had some of the trout for which 
 the lake is famous. It was very hot at Lille- 
 hammer, so we did not go to see Per Gynt's 
 Stue, which Is one of the sights of the place, 
 instead we sat In the shade and stewed until 
 the train came. We were hardly seated 
 in the car before a very welcome shower 
 began, rain, sunshine, and a rainbow all at 
 the same time, that cooled the atmosphere 
 most delightfully. Our route was up the 
 Gudbrandsdal, named after Gudbrand, the 
 heathen adversary of St. Olaf the King. The 
 natives of this valley are said to be "high 
 spirited, and prone to cling to old customs." 
 They are chiefly occupied in breeding horses 
 and cattle. The buckskin ponies, with a dark 
 stripe down their back, that are raised in this 
 neighborhood, are esteemed highly all over 
 
u 
 
 Pi 
 
3 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 33 
 
 Norway. After passing Tretten and Vin- 
 stra, small places of no importance, we came 
 to Otta, where, for the present, the railway- 
 ends and where we are to pass the night. It 
 was near this place on the 26th of August, 
 16 1 2, that Colonel Ramsay and Captain 
 Sinclair with nine hundred Scottish soldiers, 
 who were trying to force their way through 
 Norway to join the Swedes, then at war with 
 Norway, were intercepted by Norwegian 
 peasants and nearly all killed. The Nor- 
 wegians still sing a song that commemorates 
 the event. Having heard the song several 
 times and being attracted by it, I asked what 
 it was about and was given the following 
 verses, which are said to be a translation: 
 
 SINKLARVISEN. 
 
 Across the sea came the Sinclair brave. 
 To fight for the gold of Gustavus: 
 
 God help thee, chief! from the Norway 
 glaive, 
 No other defender can save us. 
 
 On Romsdal coast has he landed his host, 
 
 And lifted the flag of ruin; 
 Full fourteen hundred of mickle boast, 
 
 All eager for Norway's undoing. 
 
34 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 They scathe, they ravage wherever they 
 light, 
 
 Or truth or justice unheeding; 
 They spare not the old for his locks so white, 
 
 Nor the widow for her pleading. 
 
 They slew the babe on his mother's arm. 
 As he smiled so sweet on his f oeman : 
 
 But the cry of woe was the war alarm. 
 And the shriek was the warrior's omen. 
 
 And all of Lesso, and Vog, and Lom, 
 With axes full sharp on their shoulders. 
 
 To Bredeboyd in a swarm are gone. 
 To fight with the Scottish soldiers. 
 
 The first shot hit the fierce Sinclair right, ^^ 
 He fell with a groan full grievous ; 
 
 The Scotts beheld their bold leader's plight, 
 Then cried they; *'Saint Andrew, receive 
 usl" 
 
 At the station we were met by the manager-' 
 ess and porter of the Bjorkheim Hotel, whol 
 politely escorted us to the house, where we 
 were shown our rooms, which, although. 
 small, were clean and comfortable. After! 
 supper we took a walk up along the banks 
 of the Otta, a broad, brawling stream that 
 here empties into the Lougen from the west. 
 
At Stueflaaten 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 35 
 
 Maud and Marian counted twenty-five vari- 
 eties of flowers during our walk. Tomorrow 
 we continue our journey to the Romsdal by 
 automobile. 
 
 Tuesday, July 15. 
 
 Last night at ten o'clock, when I went to 
 bed, it was still light enough to read a news- 
 paper and this morning, when I awoke, it was 
 broad daylight. On looking at my watch I 
 found that it was just four o'clock. As the 
 only sound to be heard was the gurgling of 
 the river, I rolled over and went to sleep for 
 a couple of hours. After an early breakfast 
 we started on our trip to Aandalsnaes. Just 
 out of town we passed the Daanofos, (Thun- 
 derfall). Close by there is an extensive es- 
 tablishment for the manufacturing of tomb- 
 stones and the slate from which they are 
 made is so plentiful that slabs of it are used 
 to fence in the yard of a nearby church. Soon 
 the river becomes a torrent and the valley, 
 quite Alpine in appearance. Farms cease and 
 only an occasional log hut, roofed with turf, 
 is seen. On top of one, a woman was mowing 
 the grass, but whether it was to improve 
 the roof or for the sake of the hay, we could 
 not find out. Near Lesjeverk there is a lake 
 which is the source of the Lougen, that flows 
 
36 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 south-east Into the Skager-Rack, while from 
 its northern end issues the Rauma, that enters 
 the Molde Fjord and so the North Atlantic 
 Ocean. We stopped at Stueflaaten for lunch. 
 In the parlor of the hotel was one of those 
 odd, corner fireplaces that seem to be pe- 
 culiar to Norway. The chimney is built in the 
 corner and the two sides that project into the 
 room, are supported at the angle by a per- 
 pendicular iron bar that rests on the built up 
 hearth below. Except for the fact that it was 
 whitewashed, it looked like an old time black- 
 smith's forge, where I used to get my pony 
 shod when I was a boy. Soon after leaving 
 Stueflaaten we entered a more picturesque 
 part of the Romsdal and at the same time 
 it began to rain. It was too bad, for the 
 scenery is really fine, with cliffs and waterfalls 
 everywhere. Some of them seemed to be 
 coming right out of the clouds and down on 
 our heads ; in fact, it was hard to say whether 
 it was spray from the falls or just plain rain 
 that was soaking through our waterproofs. 
 At Flatmark we stopped for a while to get 
 out of the wet. While I stood on the hotel 
 porch dripping, out came a jolly faced Eng- 
 lishman, who was wondering if it was too wet 
 to go fishing. He asked in what part of 
 America I lived? And when I informed him. 
 
I 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 37 
 
 he said he had been In Omaha in July, 1873, 
 and had stopped at the Grand Central 
 Hotel. When I told him I was living at that 
 very same hotel at that time, he thought it 
 "Jolly strange" and right away wanted me to 
 stop over for a day at Flatmark, for, said he, 
 "it's a very decent place, and I'll show you 
 some good trout fishing," but I could not stop 
 and so we parted. By the time we got to the 
 narrowest and grandest part of the valley 
 with the mountains towering above us, on 
 the right the pointed Romsdalshorn and on 
 the left the many pinnacled Troldtinder, the 
 rain began to let up a bit, but we were wet 
 and cold so I told our chauffeur to hurry on 
 to our stopping place. 
 
 Wednesday, July i6. 
 
 Last night on arriving at the Grand Hotel, 
 Aandalsnaes, finding it cold and cheerless, I 
 thought it the most dismal place I had ever 
 seen; but after supper the boys and I went 
 into the smoking room, where there was a 
 fire. Later, some Americans came in, among 
 them Professor Naylor, whom I had met 
 before, and soon we were chatting away 
 quite gaily and we did not get to bed until 
 near midnight. This morning, after a good 
 night's rest, we all feel better, so we took 
 
38 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 the boat to Molde. Shortly after leaving 
 "Naes" we got a peep of the Romsdalshorn, 
 called for short the "Hornet," but most of the 
 mountains were hidden behind clouds. On 
 the way down the Fjord we stopped at sev- 
 eral small places and by the time we arrived 
 at Molde the sun was shining, but clouds 
 hung all day above the peaks on the opposite 
 side of the Fjord. Molde is beautifully situ- 
 ated on the green-clad hills at the foot of a 
 mountain and overlooks a smiling bay dotted 
 with many islands. We had dinner at the 
 Hotel Alexandra and I must say it was very 
 good for Norway, for while none need 
 starve in this country, the fare is not always 
 tempting. Up near the Grand Hotel, which 
 is at the other end of the town from our 
 stopping place, there is a beautiful garden 
 full of fruits and flowers. Among the fruits 
 I noticed currants, gooseberries, strawber- 
 ries, pears, and apples, all fine, save the last. 
 Among the flowers the roses were especially 
 noticeable, as they were of many sorts and 
 colors. At six o'clock in the evening we took 
 an auto for Battenfjordsoren, where we 
 caught the eight o'clock boat for Christians- 
 sund, arriving there after ten o'clock, but it 
 was still daylight and the streets were full 
 of people. We found good rooms reserved 
 
Aandalsnaes 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 39 
 
 for US at the Grand Hotel and, as the day 
 had been tiresome, we did not spend much 
 time in sightseeing but went to bed. 
 
 Thursady, July 17. 
 Left Christianssund in a small steam boat 
 at eight o'clock this morning bound for 
 Trondhjem. Christianssund is a very modern 
 city in every sense of the word, and owes its 
 prosperity to the fish trade. Our boat keeps 
 to the inland passage, which is protected 
 from the sea and rough weather by a belt of 
 islands, so the trip is pleasant in more ways 
 than one. All along the route are small 
 settlements and from them men and boys 
 put out in little boats to take freight 
 and passengers. At some places the steamer 
 would stop in the offing and a boat would 
 come out with the mail and occasionally a 
 passenger. Once it was a lone German with 
 his pack on his back. At another place the 
 boat came out empty but carried back a 
 family of five, with all their bags and boxes. 
 At some points, where the water was deep, 
 we would run along side a wharf and unload 
 a couple of barrels of flour or take aboard 
 a pig or a cow. A little past noon we had 
 dinner aboard, and it was a very good meal 
 indeed. Along in the afternoon we came to 
 
40 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 the entrance of Trondhjem Fjord, which, by 
 the way, is guarded by several forts, some of 
 whose large guns were visible. The atmos- 
 phere had a rosy tinge in it and down from 
 the north came a fleet of boats rigged with 
 big, square sails like the Viking ships of old. 
 In fact they are their degenerated descend- 
 ents, that bring down cargoes of fish and 
 firewood from the Nordland. It recalled 
 Longfellow's poem, 
 
 KING OLAFS RETURN. 
 And King Olaf heard the cry, 
 Saw the red light in the sky. 
 Laid his hand upon his sword. 
 As he leaned upon the railing. 
 And his ship went sailing, sailing 
 Northward into Drontheim Fjord. 
 
 Longfellow uses the German name of 
 Trondhjem but it is doubtful whether it is an 
 improvement on the Norwegian form. Near- 
 ly a millenium has past since Olaf Tryggves- 
 son, after years of Viking roving, returned 
 from England to claim his crown and convert 
 his countrymen to Christianity. He changed 
 his residence from the old heathen centre of 
 Lade to the little peninsula at the south of 
 the River Nid, and there founded a city 
 
(X, 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 41 
 
 called Nidaros, now Trondhjem. As soon as 
 our boat made fast to the pier we landed and, 
 after turning our baggage over to the porter, 
 walked up to the Britannia Hotel. 
 
 Friday, July i8. 
 
 Although Olaf Tryggvesson is one of the 
 grandest figures in Norwegian history, "the 
 wildly beautifullest man," as Carlyle says of 
 him, "in body and in soul, that one has ever 
 heard of in the north," his efforts at Chris- 
 tianizing his fellow countrymen were not 
 wholly successful. It was left for another 
 Olaf to accomplish that and make Trond- 
 hjem famous, Olaf Haraldsson, the "Thick- 
 set," afterwards Olaf, the Saint, the St. 
 Olave, from whom so many churches in Eng- 
 land get their names. This king was a zeal- 
 ous Christian and went about his dominion 
 inculcating his doctrines with the sword, and, 
 as a result he perished by the sword. He 
 fell in battle with his rebellious subjects at 
 Stiklestad, July 29, 1030. When all was 
 over, some of his faithful followers secretly 
 carried his body to Trondhjem and hurriedly 
 buried him in a sand heap on the spot where 
 the Cathedral now stands. The dead man 
 was more powerful than the living one. Re- 
 ports begin to be circulated of wonderful 
 
42 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 things that happened to those who touched 
 the body of the dead king. The lame 
 walked and the blind could seel A "fair" 
 well had gushed forth beside his grave, by 
 means of whose waters many were cured of 
 their ills. The feelings of the people 
 changed, the tyrant had become a saint. His 
 body was exhumed, found undecayed, with a 
 life-like expression on the face, and with 
 every sign of being miraculously preserved. 
 When his son, Magnus the Good, was elected 
 king, in pious reverence for his father's 
 memory, he built a church and placed the 
 body in a silver reliquary on its altar, and 
 ever since there has been a church there, al- 
 though the silver reliquary has long ago 
 disappeared. The present Cathedral is built 
 of greenish soapstone, relieved by slender 
 shafts of light colored marble, somewhat 
 after the style of Salisbury Cathedral in Eng- 
 land. The most remarkable part of the 
 church is the "High Choir," a large, apsidal 
 erection to the east of the chancel, somewhat 
 after the style of Becket's Crown at Canter- 
 bury. In it, where now stands the com- 
 munion table, formerly stood the silver 
 shrine of St. Olaf, that at the time of the 
 Reformation was taken to Copenhagen. 
 Around this space was erected a stone screen 
 
St. Olaf's Shrine 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 43 
 
 between the octagonally arranged pillars that 
 support the superstructure, save in front. 
 Back of this screen is a beautifully vaulted 
 passage, with three small chapels, and in a 
 small recess in one of the buttresses to the 
 right is the famous well, but it is guarded 
 from the inquisitive by an iron gate. The 
 arch connecting this choir with the chancel is 
 one of the characteristic beauties of the 
 Cathedral, but whether it was originally 
 adorned with statuary, after the style of a 
 rood screen, is to be questioned. The Chan- 
 cel is said to stand on the foundation of Olaf 
 Kyrre's church, a stone edifice built in 1066 
 to replace the one, probably of wood, built 
 by Magnus. The transepts, which are with- 
 out aisles, are Anglo-Norman in style and of 
 earlier date than the choir, but the tower 
 is Gothic and very beautiful. The nave was 
 the most modern part of the Cathedral, 
 dating from 1248. It was also the most 
 magnificent part of the building, but it has 
 been a ruin for over three hundred years: 
 however, it is now being restored. 
 
 Saturday, July 19. 
 This morning we went aboard the "Haa- 
 kon Jarl" for our trip north. As we steamed 
 out of the harbor we passed quite near 
 
44 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Munkholm, the island of the Monks. In 
 
 olden days, before the year looo, it was 
 
 used as a place of execution. Olaf Tryg- 
 
 gvesson hung up the heads of Haakon Jarl 
 
 and his faithless thrall Karker on a gibbet 
 
 there. 
 
 "At Nidarholm the priests are all singing, 
 
 Two ghastly heads on the gibbet are swing- 
 ing, 
 
 One is Jarl Haakon's and one is his thrall's. 
 
 And the people are shouting from windows 
 and walls, 
 
 While alone in her chamber 
 
 Swoons Thora, the fairest of women." 
 Thus Longfellow describes the victory of 
 Olaf in 995, but at the time the island was 
 uninhabited, so the "singing priests" is a 
 poetic license. It was Canute of Denmark 
 and England who founded the Benedictine 
 cloister there in 1028 and the first monks 
 were Englishmen. In the round tower of 
 the fortress on the island, which was erected 
 in 1658, the Danish statesman Count Grif- 
 fenfeldt was confined for twenty-one years 
 during the reign of Christian V. 
 
 Sunday, July 20. 
 When I went on deck this morning the 
 captain told me to awaken the family as 
 
The Hullet 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 45 
 
 we would soon be at the famous island of 
 Torghatten, so named because it looks like 
 a big hat floating on the sea. We landed 
 on the east side of the island and scrambled 
 up a rough path to the **Hullett" (hole), a 
 huge, natural tunnel through the mountain, 
 over four hundred feet above the beach, but 
 which was evidently excavated by the sea 
 before it was above the surface of the waves. 
 The height of the opening at the eastern 
 end is about sixty-five feet, at the western 
 end two hundred and forty-six feet. Total 
 length five hundred and thirty-five feet; 
 breadth thirty-five to fifty-six feet. The view 
 of the sea below, as seen through this gigan- 
 tic telescope, is very striking. No wonder 
 the Vikings of old, sailing by and looking up 
 through it to the sky beyond, said it was 
 the "Gate" through which the Valkyries 
 dragged up the heroes to Valhalla. 
 
 The Northland is a land of romance. The 
 fishermen, sailing along the coast in storm 
 and mist, hearing the screams of sea-birds, 
 the shriek of the wind, and the roar of the 
 waves, could easily fancy the powers of 
 death were in pursuit. The "draug" in his 
 half-boat was beside them; they could hear 
 his mocking laugh when their barque cap- 
 
46 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 sized and the crew with benumbed hands 
 clung to the upturned keel. 
 
 In the light summer nights the shapes of 
 the mountains and islands of the coast are 
 softened and subdued by the mysterious twi- 
 light. The imaginative peasants see in seven 
 mountains in a row seven sisters turned to 
 stone. An island with a fantastically shaped 
 peak on it becomes a horseman with his 
 cloak fluttering in the wind, galloping south- 
 ward in his passionate ardor to carry off the 
 maids of Lekon. Then there are real his- 
 torical places. Another island we passed this 
 afternoon was Thjoto, once the home of 
 Haarek of Thjoto, a well known character 
 in old Norse history. It lies near the mouth 
 of the beautiful Vefsenfjord, which we as- 
 cended to deliver freight and land passen- 
 gers at Mosjoen, a place where there are 
 large saw mills. 
 
 Monday, July 21. 
 We found ourselves, this morning near 
 the head of the well-timbered Ranenfjord, 
 at a town with the abbreviated name of 
 Mo, which in the Norwegian language 
 means a sandy plain. It is quite a busy lit- 
 tle place; is a shipping point for iron-ore 
 brought from the interior, and, in addition, 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 47 
 
 has a large boat-building yard, where from 
 six to eight hundred "Ranenbaads" are 
 turned out annually. These boats, which 
 with their high bows and sterns recall the 
 shape of the Venetian gondolas, are consid- 
 ered typical national crafts. They are used 
 mostly for fishing, but when occasion de- 
 mands, if not too dingy, make very pictur- 
 esque pleasure crafts with their gaily 
 painted sides of green and red. After un- 
 loading some flour and taking aboard a 
 couple of "Ranenbaads," which were to be 
 delivered further up the coast, we steamed 
 down to the mouth of the fjord, and re- 
 sumed our journey northward. 
 
 About three oVlock in the afternoon we 
 passed Hestmando, but did not get a sight 
 of the famous horseman, as it was foggy. 
 Near here we crossed the Arctic Circle and 
 entered the polar zone. Along towards six 
 in the evening we steamed into Holands- 
 fjord and ran up close to the Svartisen. 
 Why it is called black ice I cannot imagine, 
 for it is as white as any other glacier. At 
 the head of this narrow fjord, which in some 
 places Is not over three hundred yards wide 
 and has very high, rocky sides, we found a 
 large excursion steamer, the Thalia, at an- 
 chor. Running alongside of her we dropped 
 
48 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 our anchor just as supper was announced. 
 After supper we landed In the small boats, 
 and walked along a rocky path to the foot 
 of the glacier, which, if I am not mistaken, 
 is called the Fondalsbrae, and is only one of 
 seven arms that come down from the Svar- 
 tisen, a vast snow field forty miles long and 
 half as broad. It was fine to see the great 
 blue cracks in the white sea of ice and at one 
 place there was a huge arch from under 
 whose blue depths rushed a foaming river. 
 Quite a number of people from the tourist 
 steamer were scrambling up over the glacier. 
 They were a well-behaved crowd, very polite, 
 if one might judge from the frequency with 
 which we heard *'merci" and "pardon," but 
 their fine clothes and high-heeled shoes were 
 better suited for Paris boulevards than for 
 Arctic ice. A couple of natives had stretched 
 a rope up over the glacier, for the use of 
 which and a pair of ice irons to strap on your 
 shoes they charged half a krone. Raphael 
 tried the experiment of going up over the 
 ice to the first large crevasse, but, as the 
 strap to one of his irons broke and he had 
 no alpenstock to hold him up in his descent, 
 he came down very gracefully on all fours. 
 The rest of the family were satisfied by 
 merely stepping on the ice and back again 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 49 
 
 to terra-firma. But, after all, the view of 
 the glacier as seen from the ship, was the 
 grandest sight of the kind that I have ever 
 witnessed. It was not alone the magnificent 
 river of ice that impressed one, but the vast 
 field beyond, showing above the clouds, with 
 the sunlight shining upon it, and away above 
 all, a white, glittering dome, which we 
 watched from below in the twilight. 
 
 Tuesday, July 22. 
 
 On awaking this morning we found our- 
 selves at Bodo, quite a town for the Arctic 
 Zone. It has over forty-seven hundred in- 
 habitants, good stores, a nice-looking hotel, 
 a large church, and several fine buildings. 
 The quays are of stone and a massive sea- 
 wall protects the harbor. The midnight 
 sun is seen here from May thirtieth till 
 July twelfth, and for the corresponding 
 period in winter they have no sun at all, but 
 at that time they use electricity to light the 
 streets. Luckily electricity is cheap here, 
 owing to the abundance of water power. At 
 this season of the year it is hard to realize 
 that we are in 67° 17' north latitude. Dur- 
 ing the afternoon we crossed the Vestfjord 
 to the Lofoten Islands, a chain of half sub- 
 merged, rocky peaks that, beginning in up- 
 
50 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 per Norway, extend two hundred kilometers 
 southwest, out into the north Atlantic Ocean. 
 The first place we touched at was Reine, a 
 poor, little settlement in a most desolate 
 region: nothing but rocks, that rise like 
 saw-teeth from the stormy sea and are 
 naked, save for a few patches of greenish- 
 brown moss. I say naked, but that means 
 of soil or verdure, for even this late in the 
 summer the north flank of each mountain, 
 where it is not too steep, is covered with 
 snow and ice. As the evening was cold and 
 disagreeable, I went to bed. 
 
 Wednesday, July 23. 
 It IS bright and sunny this morning, so I 
 feel better. As soon as we made fast to 
 the wharf at Svolvaer I took a short walk 
 about the town. There are some quite nice 
 houses here and even several gardens with 
 shrubs and a few small trees in them, but I 
 do not think it will ever amount to much as 
 a place to raise fruit or even as a popular 
 summer resort. These islands owe their 
 prosperity, I might almost say their habita- 
 bility, to the fisheries, which are mentioned 
 by writers as early as nine hundred years 
 ago. The fishing is carried on from mid- 
 January till April in the Vestf jord, to which 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 51 
 
 the cod, from the depths of the Atlantic, 
 come to spawn. So dense are the schools, 
 as they move in serried ranks one hundred 
 feet or more below the surface of the water, 
 that the lead, when thrown, actually rests 
 on the bodies of the fishes and does not sink 
 to the bottom. In good years as high as 
 forty-six millions of fish are caught that are 
 worth over eight million krones. Towards 
 the middle of the afternoon we entered the 
 Raftsund, the grandest of the Lofoten 
 straits, flanked with huge mountains, that 
 are furrowed by deep ravines. After pro- 
 ceeding up this magnificent water-way for a 
 few miles we turned into the Troldfjord, a 
 narrow bay enclosed by abrupt rocks that 
 rise to a stupendous height. It ends beneath 
 several snow-filled gorges and there was 
 barely room for our steamer to turn about. 
 Our old captain, with evident pride, told 
 me there was "only one Troldfjord in Nor- 
 way and nothing like it in the world," and 
 I believe he is quite right. 
 
 Thursday, July 24. 
 Today we have been passing through some 
 fine arctic scenery, up a broad waterway be- 
 tween snow-capped mountains. It seems to 
 be a thoroughfare of commerce and we have 
 
52 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 passed a number of large freight steamers 
 from Russia, piled high with deck loads of 
 timber. The trees are cut in the far interior 
 and floated down the rivers that empty into 
 the White Sea. These steamers mostly load 
 at Archangel and carry their freight to 
 England and Germany. Even this far north 
 there are farms. At one place they were 
 quite large, say forty acres each, and while 
 the houses are small they look comfortable. 
 The crops seemed to be rye and potatoes. 
 The grain is cut green and hung upon frames 
 or stakes to ripen. A gentleman aboard said 
 that rye and oats when mixed seemed to give 
 a better crop than when either was planted 
 alone. He also told me that each of these 
 farmers had from twenty to forty cows, but 
 that at this time of the year they were up 
 at the saters in the mountains; that there 
 the grass was good now and that the women 
 in charge milked the cows and made cheese 
 and butter for winter use. He also said the 
 potatoes were small, as they cut the tops for 
 fodder. 
 
 Friday, July 25. 
 We stopped at Tromso early this morn- 
 ing, but I was not up in time to see the place. 
 Later on we saw some grand scenery as the 
 
1 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 53 
 
 Steamer passed the entrance to Lyngenf jord. 
 We are now in Lapland. Finmarken, as it 
 is called by the Norwegians, takes its name 
 from the Finns, or, as they are now generally 
 called, the Lapps. They are the extreme 
 northwest branch of the Mongolian race 
 and have lived here from time immemorial. 
 Today, these skin-clad nomads lead their 
 wandering lives just as their ancestors did in 
 prehistoric times. During the night of win- 
 ter, when the Northern lights flicker and 
 flash in green and yellow and red, the 
 "Mountain Lapp" on his **ski" speeds across 
 the snow sheet that covers the plateau; or, 
 hitching the fleet footed reindeer to the 
 low, little *'pulk," in which he sits warmly 
 wrapped in furs, goes flying over the snow- 
 clad hills behind his antler-crowned steed. 
 He lives with and on the reindeer. He tends 
 the large herds of tame deer with the aid of 
 his small dogs, that are always his faithful, 
 clever companions and in return the herd 
 gives him food, clothing and all else he 
 needs. Down on the coast, however, the 
 Lapp is stationary, and lives in a little, dark, 
 one room, sod hut called a "gammer," and 
 makes his precarious living by fishing or 
 working for the Norwegians. After dinner 
 we arrived at Hammerfest, often called the 
 
54 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 "most northern town in the world.'' 
 Although our steamer was made fast bow 
 on, by a line to the dock, we had to land by 
 means of small boats. The town is not much 
 of a place but is resorted to by ships of all 
 nations. We saw many Lapps and Russians 
 on the streets. The Lapps wear blue cloth 
 blouses trimmed with red and a queer cap 
 with a square crown of the same colors. 
 This, of course, is their summer costume, for 
 in winter, according to all accounts, they 
 dress in skins. They are a dirty looking lot, 
 but seem almost immaculate when compared 
 with the Russian sailors. Up on the hill 
 back of the town there is a cafe, whence can 
 be obtained a fine view of the harbor. Notic- 
 ing a monument over on the right side of the 
 harbor, after descending the hill, we walked 
 around to see what it represented. We 
 found that it was a small granite column sur- 
 mounted by a bronze globe and on the base 
 was an inscription stating that it "marked the 
 northern end of a meridian measured by 
 Norwegian, Swedish, Russian and Austrian 
 scientists in 1816-52.** 
 
Pi 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 55 
 
 Saturday, July 26. 
 
 THE DISCOVERER OF THE NORTH 
 
 CAPE. 
 "The days grew longer and longer, 
 Till they became as one, 
 And northward through the haze 
 I saw the sullen blaze 
 
 Of the red midnight sun. 
 
 "And then uprose, before me, 
 Upon the waters edge 
 The huge and haggard shape 
 Of that unknown North Cape, 
 Whose form is like a wedge. 
 
 "The sea was rough and stormy, 
 The tempest howled and wailed, 
 
 And the sea-fog, like a ghost. 
 
 Haunted that dreary coast. 
 But onward still I sailed. 
 
 "Four days I steered to eastward 
 Four days without a night : 
 
 Round in a fiery ring 
 
 Went the great sun, O King, 
 With red and lurid light." 
 
 We came up on the east side of the North 
 Cape, for it is on an island and you can sail 
 around it, but we could not land on account 
 
56 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 of the sea being so rough. First the Cap- 
 tain said It was too windy to land, then he 
 changed his mind, said he would try, and 
 ran up to within a mile of the cape. Fi- 
 nally, after watching the spray dashing up 
 against the rocks for a few minutes, he gave 
 It up and putting the ship about, ran before 
 the wind towards the south east. After 
 passing the cape there Is little to see except 
 bare, rocky hills and an occasional lone 
 *'gammer" of a Lapp fisherman. The weather 
 was bright but cold and windy. Along in 
 the middle of the afternoon we passed some 
 cliffs that were the nesting place of thou- 
 sands of sea-birds and when the steamer's 
 whistle was sounded they flew forth from 
 the ledges, nooks and crannies in clouds, 
 making a great clamor as they circled over 
 head. Soon after passing these clIfFs we 
 sighted the steamer **Sverre Sigurdsson" on 
 its return trip. As the boat was heading 
 into the wind, it was rolling considerably 
 and after the experience of our run up to 
 the cape this morning, for the sake of the 
 family, I am glad we are not aboard, but in 
 this old tub running before the wind. We 
 stayed up on deck and saw the midnight 
 sun, but at midnight it did not look very dif- 
 ferent from the sun half an hour before 
 

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A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 57 
 
 sunset on any winter evening at home, ex- 
 cept that it was due north and instead of 
 finally sinking below the horizon, it began 
 to rise again. 
 
 Sunday, July 27. 
 
 Vardo, where we now are, has quite a 
 good harbor, enclosed at one end by a fine' 
 old stone sea-wall that connects a small 
 island to the larger one on which the town 
 is built. At the other side of the harbor 
 there is also a wall with quite a picturesque 
 old light house on the end near the entrance 
 of the port. If the commerce of the place 
 keeps on increasing, they will soon have to 
 enlarge the harbor, for it is quite full of 
 vessels of all sorts. After breakfast we 
 landed, by means of a small boat, and found 
 the town very dirty. Most of the houses 
 are of timber, roofed with birch bark over- 
 laid with sod, which is now quite green. 
 The objectionable feature is that back of 
 almost every house there is a *'hjelder" for 
 drying fish and generally, as a result, a heap 
 of fish heads and the like near by that 
 smell powerfully. It is said that these heads, 
 boiled with moss, are fed to the horses and 
 cows during the winter. We walked past 
 the church and around to the old fortress 
 
58 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 of Vardohus, founded in 13 lo and to which 
 Norway once owed her hold of Flnmarken, 
 but now garrisoned by only sixteen men. 
 Never the less, when I tried to mount to the 
 parapet to look at some field guns that were 
 in place there, I was halted by one of the 
 sixteen, who insisted on acting as our escort 
 and by pantomime showed us where we 
 could, and where we should not go. He 
 finally brought us to a box, which, after un- 
 locking, he opened, to show a beam on which 
 were carved the names of Christian IV., of 
 Denmark (1599), Oscar II., of Sweden, 
 Haakon VII., of Norway, and Queen Maud. 
 Of course the above named gentlemen, for 
 lack of something better to do in Vardo, 
 may have taken out their jack-knives and 
 cut their names in that old log, just to pass 
 the time away, but you can't make me be- 
 lieve that the lady, no matter how accom- 
 plished she may be, could handle edged tools 
 with such skill. Why, the curve of the M is 
 cut across the grain of the hard wood as 
 smoothly as an engraver could put it on a 
 copper plate. Towards evening our good 
 ship steamed on to the town of Vadso, which 
 has an excellent harbor, but, as there was 
 nothing to see except cod fish hanging on 
 frames to dry, we did not go ashore. 
 
.^':^ 
 
 i •; ,,;-, 
 
 
 
 "» Hl^ 
 
 N^^ "^1^' . 
 
 
 ir^ 
 
 
 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 59 
 
 Monday, July 28. 
 We are now at Kirkenes, which is as far 
 as this steamer goes. Kirkenes owes its im- 
 portance to mines somewhere in the back 
 country, from which a narrow guage railway 
 brings the ore here to be smelted. Shortly 
 after our arrival a number of the passen- 
 gers hired a fishing smack for a trip to Rus- 
 sia. It is not a long trip and we all wanted 
 to be able to say we had been in that coun- 
 try, otherwise I don't believe any of us would 
 have gone. Our craft, in addition to its 
 sails, was provided with a motor that was 
 concealed somewhere below decks and occa- 
 sionally made itself heard through the 
 exhaust. Originally the vessel was not 
 intended for carrying passengers but fish, so 
 the accommodations were not luxurious nor 
 over clean. We sailed away up the Bogf jord 
 some sixteen miles to Elvenaes, where we 
 landed near an old saw mill. From there 
 we walked up the Pasvik-Elv over a rough 
 path to the Russian Chapel of Boris-Gleb, 
 which is on the left bank of the Pasvik about 
 four or five kilometers south of our land- 
 ing place. It is a little, neglected hamlet, 
 near a large church, and the inhabitants are 
 mostly Lapps. When we arrived at the 
 place the priest was saying Mass in a small 
 
60 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 chapel near the grave-yard and all the in- 
 habitants, who seemed very devout, were 
 with him. We waited a while until the peo- 
 ple came out and the priest followed them. 
 He was a very old man with a long, snow- 
 white beard, so we all took off our hats to 
 show our respect to him and when he po- 
 litely returned the compliment by removing 
 his cap I noticed he was quite bald. He 
 wore a brown blouse over a light blue cas- 
 sock or gown. On his breast was a large 
 metal cross that hung from a chain about 
 his neck and In his hand he carried a staff 
 of dark wood that was Inlaid with bone or 
 ivory. We had some difficulty in making 
 him understand that we wished to see the 
 interior of the large church near by, but 
 finally he sent a man to unlock the door and 
 show us about. The church Is a remark- 
 ably fine building to be In such an isolated 
 spot. It is built In the Russian style, with 
 five domes that are surmounted by double 
 crosses, chained to the roof. Inside, the 
 main part of the church Is very plain but 
 there is a high wooden screen across the 
 chancel that Is richly gilded and has some 
 quite good paintings on It. This screen shuts 
 off the sanctuary from the main part of the 
 church but has doors in front of the altar 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 61 
 
 that are probably opened when the priest 
 is saying Mass. The paintings on the screen 
 represent our Lord, the Blessed Virgin, and 
 the Archangels, Michael and Gabriel. On 
 pedestals at each side, in elaborately deco- 
 rated gilt frames, are holy ikons, one of 
 Christ, the other of His Mother. There 
 are also several silk banners hanging from 
 poles and a number of large brass candle- 
 sticks, with very small candles in them, in 
 front of the screen. Finally, there is a 
 pair of great stoves, built of masonry and 
 tiles; one on each side of the church, that 
 while not ornamental are probably very use- 
 ful. Through a side door I got a peep be- 
 hind the screen and noticed that the altar 
 was low and so placed that the priest had 
 to face the congregation when saying Mass. 
 It was rather a long and rough walk there 
 and back but all our party, which included 
 a number of women and two small children, 
 made the journey without accident. Maud 
 was pretty well used up, however, by the 
 time she got back to the boat. From Kirk- 
 enes we returned to Vardo, from which 
 place we begin our return trip. 
 
 Tuesday, July 29. 
 The Midnight Sun is something of a 
 
62 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 fraud. I stayed up last night to see it but 
 the sky remained cloudy along the horizon 
 and the orb of day went below the cloud 
 banks. Of course it was light enough to 
 read, but the sun was not visible for from 
 half an hour before until the same time past 
 midnight. Last Saturday night was the 
 only time he has been a real good sport and 
 stayed up with the boys. Well, tonight will 
 be our last chance, for after July 30th, even 
 at the North Cape he begins to sink below 
 the horizon. About June the twentieth or 
 after is the best time to see the Midnight 
 Sun, for he is then at the highest point above 
 the horizon, the spring storms are past and 
 it is not so apt to be cloudy. However, as 
 It is cloudy most of the time up here, it is 
 only a lucky chance if people, who come in 
 the Tourist steamers, see the Midnight Sun 
 at all, for the boats arrive at the Cape about 
 ten o'clock at night, if on time, and depart 
 four hours later. At the various little settle- 
 ments at which our boat stops the principal 
 freight taken aboard is dried cod fish. Usu- 
 ally a barge comes along side with a load 
 of a hundred or more bales of dried fish, 
 and as these bales weigh over two hundred 
 pounds apiece, the donkey engine has to do 
 the rest. Besides this, there has to be a 
 
Boris-Gleb 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 63 
 
 man to run the engine and another to hook 
 on the bales; and the fellow that was at- 
 tending to the latter service at a place where 
 we stopped at about four o'clock this morn- 
 ing awoke me by singing Annie Laurie. It 
 was in Norwegian but I recognized the air 
 and listening could catch the lady's name. 
 If it were not for the fish in the adjacent 
 sea, this country would be uninhabitable. 
 Most of the fishermen seem to use set lines, 
 to which are attached a great many short 
 hook lines about six feet apart, and at the 
 end of the line they fasten a buoy made of a 
 stick of wood six to ten feet long, to which 
 are attached, by means of nets, several hol- 
 low glass balls of various colors. Of course 
 a glass ball does not soon loose its buoy- 
 ancy and by having a certain combination 
 of colors each man can easily identify his 
 lines. Then another probable advantage 
 is that the light reflected from the glass is 
 visible a long way off and that makes them 
 easier to find, if they drift away from the 
 place where they were set. About four 
 o'clock in the afternoon we rounded the 
 Nordkyn, the most northerly point of the 
 mainland of Europe, and soon we were 
 heading to the south west. 
 
64- A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Wednesday, July 30. 
 The "Guide Book" says, "The Tourist 
 Steamers to the North Cape are comfortably 
 fitted up; but the company is sometimes 
 noisy." "The Express and Mail Steamers 
 are more convenient for those wishing to ex- 
 plore the Nordland more thoroughly." I 
 can add that they also are, sometimes very 
 noisy and have other disadvantages, but our 
 captain has been very accommodating and 
 has done everything possible to make the 
 trip pleasant. I would not advise travelers 
 to go beyond the North Cape, for the life 
 aboard the steamers becomes monotonous 
 and the scenery is apt to pall. This morn- 
 ing, thank goodness, we are back at Ham- 
 merfest, which, I am afraid, we did not ap- 
 preciate when we were here before, for it 
 looks quite civilized now. After having 
 taken aboard tons of cod fish, we pulled out 
 at about three o'clock this afternoon bound 
 for Tromso. About four or five hours later 
 we passed the mouth of Lyngenf jord. The 
 mountains, as seen from the ship, appear 
 rugged and snow-capped. The light was 
 peculiar. It was cloudy and everything, 
 mountains, sky, and water looked blue, like 
 a stage scene supposed to be in Fairy Land, 
 save where the snow lay on the top of a dis- 
 
Landing at Hammerfest 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 65 
 
 tant peak, or where a nearby hill was cov- 
 ered with green moss, and even those had a 
 bluish tinge. 
 
 Tuesday, July 31. 
 I did not get a chance to see Tromso, as 
 we arrived there at about two o'clock this 
 morning and only remained for an hour. 
 When I got up we were at a place called 
 Gibostad and it was pleasant to see some 
 trees again. The fare aboard the boat is 
 good. We have all the fish we can eat at 
 every meal. Today at dinner it was de- 
 licious trout. Then there are always various 
 kinds of sausages and preserved meats, but 
 the fresh meat is usually stringy, tough, and 
 tasteless. In addition there are all kinds of 
 canned fish : anchovies, sardines, pickled her- 
 ring, and caviare. Among the Norwegian 
 passengers these delicacies are very popular, 
 with cheese, especially a brown variety made 
 of goats' milk, that looks like a huge bar of 
 Windsor soap and tastes as though it had 
 been soaked in molasses and hung up to dry. 
 At my first trial of that variety of cheese, 
 I thought it was a joke, but, after a Nor- 
 wegian friend had shown me how to cut it 
 in thin slices and spread it on a piece of well- 
 buttered bread, I learned to like it. Cap- 
 
66 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 tain Steen of our boat is a fine old Norseman, 
 with a kindly face and a cheerful word for 
 everybody. He is suffering from some seri- 
 ous disease, for he told me he had under- 
 gone three different operations and still was 
 enduring much pain. He has been in com- 
 mand of this ship for over twenty years 
 but the first mate tells me that probably 
 this will be the old gentleman's last voyage. 
 Near Harstad, a thriving little town on the 
 Island of Hindo, is the old church of Thron- 
 denaes, built in iioo and for a long 
 time the most northern place of Christian 
 worship in Europe. We passed quite near 
 it, just before entering the harbor, and had 
 time permitted I should have liked to visit 
 the old building, but we made only a short 
 stop at Harstad, which is one of the pret- 
 tiest places within the Arctic Circle and may 
 some day become quite a summer resort. 
 
 Friday, August i. 
 A little rough this morning. We are now 
 back to Svolvaer in the Lofoten Islands. 
 Took a walk about the town while they were 
 loading up the boat with cod fish and numer- 
 ous barrels of salt herrings. The herring 
 is a very useful fish. From it almost any- 
 thing that comes out of the sea can be manu- 
 
Bridge of S. S. Haakon Jarl 
 
■ 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 67 
 
 factured. From small ones they make an- 
 chovies and sardines. The medium sized 
 fish are put up as appetizers and pickled 
 herrings, while the large ones are smoked, 
 salted, or kippered. I have said so much 
 about herrings lately that at breakfast 
 Charles sprung a little rhyme which he had 
 composed for the occasion : 
 Here's to the herring that lives in the sea 
 That girdless the globe, an iconoclast he. 
 
 He's made into anchovies, smelts, and sar- 
 dines, 
 And Russian caviare by pressing through 
 screens. 
 
 Is cheese made of goat's milk? You'd bet- 
 ter go slow. 
 When the herring's around, you'll doubt 
 it I know. 
 
 Saturday, August 2. 
 
 We are back to the town of Bodo this 
 morning and the sun actually came out from 
 behind the clouds for a while to give us a 
 welcome. It was very fortunate we crossed 
 the Vesterfjord last night instead of this 
 morning for the sea looked rough outside 
 the breakwater. They must have some bad 
 
68 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Storms here in the winter, for they tell me 
 the sea-wall is then often swept away by the 
 waves. 
 
 Sunday, August 3. 
 
 Cloudy and rainy again today. About 
 noon we got a distant view of Torghatten 
 and it looked quite like a large hat afloat on 
 the water, but before we reached the island, 
 it was lost to sight in the fog. One of our 
 passengers is a young Dane who speaks Eng- 
 lish, such as is learned from *'First Lessons 
 in the English Language." He can ask a 
 number of questions, but does not readily 
 understand the answer. To-day he told me 
 he did not understand my English very well, 
 because I spoke "with an American accent." 
 Now that gives me something to think about. 
 
 Monday, August 4. 
 
 The sea was very rough last night and 
 our little ship was tossed about in a fearful 
 manner. Several times during the night I 
 was awakened by a crash of crockery in the 
 pantry, near by. As soon as it was light 
 enough to see, I got up and looked out of 
 the port-hole and the waves were indeed won- 
 derful. They must have been fifteen feet 
 high and as they dashed against the rocks 
 
i 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 69 
 
 a great column of spray would fly up in the 
 air. By breakfast time we were back in the 
 shelter of the Skjaergaard. About the mid- 
 dle of the afternoon we landed on the Bra- 
 toren pier, Trondhjem, and now are back 
 in our old rooms at the Britannia Hotel. 
 After getting settled and glancing through 
 the large bundle of letters that has been 
 awaiting my return, I went over to Thomas 
 Bennett & Sons and asked them to prepare 
 for us an itinerary of a trip through the 
 fjords to the south, only naming a few places 
 we would like especially to see. Then I 
 walked up to Kristiansten, the old, castel- 
 lated fort on the hill back of the town. It 
 is a primitive, rude affair, but, no doubt, has 
 bori^ the brunt of many a fierce attack In the 
 stirring times that are recorded in Trond- 
 hjem*s Saga. 
 
 Tuesday, August 5. 
 
 It rained hard last night and there have 
 been several showers this morning. We 
 spent the time walking about the streets, 
 getting an occasional peep Into the old 
 houses of the town, so different from the 
 modern ones here and in Bergen and Chris- 
 tiania. These houses, which are not so very 
 ancient, are probably built after the same 
 
70 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 plan as those mentioned in the Sagas. Of 
 course none of them are much over a hun- 
 dred years old, for this town, like most 
 others in Norway, has been burned down at 
 least a dozen times. The old houses here 
 are built around a court, have a big door- 
 way leading out into the street and only a 
 few small windows high up, that look out 
 on the thoroughfare. Therefore, I judge 
 they are built on the same plan as the houses 
 that existed in the town over nine hundred 
 years ago, one of which houses is referred 
 to in the following quotation from "Gret- 
 tir's Saga," where an event that took place 
 one afternoon, long ago, in the old town, is 
 vividly described. 
 
 "It happened one day when Grettir and 
 Arnbiorn were walking through some streets 
 for their sport, that as they came past a 
 certain court gate, a man bounded forth 
 therefrom with axe borne aloft, and drave 
 it at Grettir with both hands ; he was all un- 
 awares of this, and walked on slowly; Arn- 
 biorn caught timely sight of the man, and 
 seized Grettir, and thrust him on so hard 
 that he fell on his knee; the axe smote the 
 shoulder-blade, and cut sideways out under 
 the arm-pit, and a great wound it was. Gret- 
 tir turned about nimbly, and drew the short- 
 
ffi 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 71 
 
 sword, and saw that there was Hiarandi. 
 Now the axe stuck fast in the road, and it 
 was slow work for Hiarandi to draw it to 
 him, and in this very nick of time Grettir 
 hewed at him, and the blow fell on the upper 
 arm, near the shoulder, and cut it off; then 
 the fellows of Hiarandi rushed forth, five 
 of them, and a fight forthwith befell, and 
 speedy change happened there, for Grettir 
 and Arnbiorn slew those who were with 
 Hiarandi, all but one, who got off, 
 and forthwith went to the Earl to tell 
 him these tidings." Grettir, let me add, was 
 a tourist from Iceland and he had a hot 
 time in the old town, if we may believe his 
 Saga. As another thunder storm was threat- 
 ening the family decided to go back to the 
 hotel. Seeing the striped pole of a barber 
 across the Market Square, I went over and 
 entered the shop to avoid the rain and spend 
 the time profitably by getting my hair washed 
 and cut, for it had need for both , after 
 the trip north. The barber did not speak 
 English but he understood the sign language 
 and when he had finished cutting my hair, I 
 tried to make him realize that it needed a 
 shampoo. Again success crowned my efforts 
 and when he had got my head well lathered, 
 by the same means, he made me understand 
 
n A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 that I was to step over to a washstand and 
 bend over it with my face in the bowl, which 
 I did and waited for him to souse the water 
 on the back of my neck, as they do in for- 
 eign parts, but I was hardly prepared for 
 what happened. Grabbing me by the hair 
 of my head so there was no escape, he 
 turned on the water, which came with a rush 
 from the bottom of the basin and hit me 
 full in the face. It was ice cold and the ef- 
 fect was so startling that I nearly choked 
 from the water I swallowed and never knew 
 how the soap was removed from my locks; 
 but, on recovering my composure, found it 
 had been accomplished, much to the amuse- 
 ment of the barber and his barbarian com- 
 panions, whose uproarious peals of laughter 
 still could be heard even after I had slammed 
 the door of the shop on making my exit. 
 Well, thank Heaven that they are more civi- 
 lized than they were nine hundred years ago. 
 Never the less, of all the people in Europe, 
 that I have seen, the inhabita.its of Trond- 
 hjem, somehow, seemed the most like Ameri- 
 cans. The men are tall, broad shouldered, 
 with grave faces; their noses generally aqui- 
 line and their eyes and hair usually brown, 
 blonds being the exception. While not given 
 to mirth they seem to be extremely kind 
 
Trondhjem's Wharves 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 73 
 
 and you hear little quarreling or noise. As 
 to the women, well, I was constantly mistak- 
 ing the younger ones for American girls. 
 You see many oval shaped faces with small 
 features, low foreheads, straight noses, and 
 frank brown or gray eyes, set far apart be- 
 neath but slightly arched eyebrows; such a 
 face as is often seen in Dublin or among the 
 Puritan stock of New England. The same 
 kind of a face artists love to give to Pris- 
 cilla Mullen, when they paint a picture in 
 which she appears. Can it be the typical 
 face of women of the Norman Race, or is 
 it a general type that is common to many 
 nations ? 
 
 Thursday, August 7. 
 At eight o'clock this morning we took the 
 steamer for Christianssund on our way to 
 Molde. The steamer is small but the dinner 
 aboard was quite as good as on the large 
 boats. For dessert we had delicious straw- 
 berries, all we could eat, and they brought 
 in big pitchers of rich cream to pour over 
 them. The captain is a good natured, ruddy 
 faced, portly, old gentleman, who exerted 
 himself to make it pleasant for us. He was 
 accompanied in his walks about the deck by 
 a couple of sedate setter dogs that followed 
 at his heels as close as a pair of shadows. 
 
74 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 We first proceeded down the Trondhjems 
 Fjord until we passed the batteries at the 
 entrance. Then the boat turned into Trond- 
 hjemsleden and passing between many beau- 
 tiful islands came at last to Christianssund, 
 a busy, growing town, that is built on the 
 several islands about its harbor. Communi- 
 cation is kept up between these islets by 
 means of small ferryboats that come and go 
 every few minutes from a landing place near 
 the dock to which our steamer made fast. 
 The town is close to the open i^ea and is an 
 important fish-market. On Skerpen, an out- 
 lying island to the north, are the drying 
 places for the klipfish, which is like our dry, 
 salt cod, and is mostly shipped to Spain and 
 Portugal. Here we had to change to an- 
 other boat that took us on to Battenfjord, 
 where we landed and took autos for Molde. 
 We arrived at the latter place a little after 
 ten o'clock and got rooms at the Alexandra 
 Hotel. Notwitshtanding the late hour it 
 seemed quite lively, for the "Meteor,'* a 
 large tourist boat was in the harbor and 
 many of her passengers were lingering about 
 the hotel or embarking at a nearby landing. 
 
 Friday, August 8. 
 Molde looks very attractive today. The 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 75 
 
 vegetation is so verdant and the mountains 
 across the fjord are so distinctly visible. To 
 be sure there have been several showers 
 this morning, but the sun comes out so 
 brightly after they are over! It really seems 
 warm for the first time since the beginning 
 of our trip to the North Cape. I was rather 
 surprised, therefore, on looking at the ther- 
 mometer to find that it stood at only sixty 
 degrees Fahrenheit. Maud, Marian and I 
 walked up on the hill back of the town and 
 found some very pretty places, but whether 
 they were just summer homes or all the year 
 habitations we were unable to decide. At 
 four o'clock in the afternoon we took a small 
 steamer and crossed to Vestnaes. From 
 there we went by auto, first along the Tres- 
 fjord by a highway built somewhat after the 
 plan of a switchback railway and finally by a 
 smooth road across the mountains to Soholt. 
 The scenery along the way is quite pretty, 
 especially during the descent to our stopping 
 place, which is a small, rural village, whose 
 inhabitants are extensively engaged in fish- 
 ing and in farming as a diversion. Near our 
 hotel is a field on the upper part of which men 
 are busy cutting the scanty hay crop, which 
 is carefully hung on the fence to dry; while 
 on the edge near the water, are numerous 
 
1(> A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Stacks of fish that are also drying under cir- 
 cular, roof-like covers. 
 
 Saturday, August 9. 
 
 We left Soholt after breakfast on a motor 
 boat bound for Oie. The craft, which is 
 manned or undermanned by a crew of two 
 lads, about fourteen and sixteen years old, 
 is seaworthy, but that is about all one can 
 say in its favor, for a dirtier, greasier tub, 
 it would be hard to find. Our only fellow 
 passengers are a couple that hail from New 
 Jersey, but who try to make us believe they 
 live in New York City. We chugged along 
 down the Nordfjord through a part of the 
 S tor fjord and turned into the Jorundfjord, 
 which is one of the most superb in Norway 
 and is quite different from the deep cut and 
 upright walled canyons of most of the other 
 fjords. Here you see picturesque ranges 
 and mountains, some of them with alpine 
 peaks, others with great notches ("skard"), 
 while above are snow and glaciers. Turning 
 into the Norangfjord, an arm of the Jorund- 
 fjord, we soon came to Oie, where we dined 
 at the Union Hotel. This hotel seems to be 
 quite a resort for mountain climbers. In a 
 book, kept in the reading room for the pur- 
 pose, a number of boobies have scribbled 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 77 
 
 their tales of how they made the ascent of 
 the **Slogen*' or some other peak. 
 
 Although the weather looked threatening, 
 after dinner we took stolkjaerres for the 
 drive to Hellesylt. About five kilometers 
 from Oie up the Norangdal there is a lake 
 that was formed May 28, 1908 by a land- 
 slide from the top of the Kjeipen, which 
 dammed up the valley. The pond, formed 
 by the dam is about six hundred and fifty 
 yards long and, as we passed up along its 
 shore, we could see down in the clear water 
 the ruins of several houses, while, coming up 
 out of the depths, at the upper end of the 
 lake, we could see over a hundred yards of 
 the old road. The boy who drove my cart 
 told me he had often passed over this piece 
 of road before the water was there. At 
 Hellesylt we had supper after which we 
 took a steamer for the Geir anger Fjord, 
 noted for its bold cliffs and many waterfalls. 
 The most famous of the latter are the 
 "Seven Sisters," that fall from a perpendicu- 
 lar rock over a thousand feet high. Shortly 
 after passing these beautiful waterfalls we 
 came to Marok, where we landed. As there 
 was only room for my wife and daughter in 
 the hotel auto-buss, the boys and I walked 
 up to the Union Hotel, which we found to 
 
78 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 be quite a climb. From the porch, where 
 we paused to rest, there is a fine view of the 
 fjord and the near by Storfos. The enter- 
 prising proprietor of the hotel has utilized 
 the waterfall to furnish electricity for light- 
 ing his house and grounds. 
 
 Sunday, August lo. 
 After breakfast we started by auto up 
 the road to Grotlid. When Marian looked 
 ahead, she asked where we were going. I 
 told her, *' Right up over the mountain you 
 see in front of us." She would not believe 
 me, and to tell the truth I was doubtful 
 about it myself, it looked impossible. We 
 began to ascend rapidly by zig-zags, turning 
 corners that would have been impossible for 
 a long American automobile but were easily 
 negotiated by the dumpy little Adler car we 
 were in. We passed stones marking an alti- 
 tude of live hundred, eight hundred, and, 
 finally, a thousand meters. This road is a 
 wonderful piece of engineering and even in 
 Switzerland it would be considered remark- 
 able. We traveled some seventeen kilome- 
 ters to reach the top of the mountain and 
 then were less than six kilometers in a 
 straight line from our starting place. Soon 
 after passing the highest point we came to 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 79 
 
 a large lake that is the source of the Otta, 
 which empties into the Lougen, up which 
 we traveled several weeks ago, when on our 
 way to the Romsdal. After following the 
 road along the banks of this lake for a 
 couple of miles, we came to the rigs that 
 were waiting to take us on to Grotlid, for the 
 farmers of the district that we have now 
 reached do not allow automobiles to travel 
 over their roads. The hotel proprietor at 
 Marok had promised he would have two 
 carriages meet us here, but only one was a 
 caleche, the other being an ordinary stolk- 
 jaerre. We all climbed out of the auto, 
 which had to go back, and, after putting my 
 family into the four-wheeler, I got into the 
 cart, along with the Englishman who had 
 already taken possession. Before we had 
 gone far the boy who was driving, tried to 
 show us some reindeer on the other side of 
 the lake. He said there were half a dozen 
 on the mountain side, but I could not see 
 them, they being too far away and from the 
 lack of interest displayed by the English- 
 man I doubt whether he saw them, although 
 he said, "Yes ! yes." At Grotlid we stopped 
 for dinner, and when we resumed our jour- 
 ney we turned back, going up the Vatsvend- 
 dal, a valley that branches off to the west 
 
80 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 from the one down which we had come. 
 While passing a low ridge I happened to 
 spy a small bunch of reindeer on some snow 
 high up on the mountain side to our right 
 and on turning a bend in the road we came 
 in sight of a big herd of deer that were on 
 a large snowfield lower down. I had the 
 driver stop his horse, intending to wait until 
 my family came along, so that I might call 
 their attention to the herd, but immediately 
 the Englishman jumped out of the cart and 
 ran up the mountain side saying, ^Tm going 
 up to see those deer.'* I thought the poor 
 "simp" had gone crazy, for they were at 
 least a mile away, but as he would not come 
 back when called, I got out my field glasses 
 and watched the deer until the folks came 
 along, when I called their attention to the 
 unusual sight. In the meantime the Eng- 
 lishman had disappeared over the nearest 
 ridge and after a short pause my family 
 passed on, but I had to wait for the return 
 of my companion. Soon the deer that were 
 higher up began to move away, but the 
 main herd remained quiet. At last the Eng- 
 lishman appeared on the snow quite near 
 the herd, coming up to them from behind 
 some rocks. When they finally discovered 
 him and took alarm, it was a fine sight, as 
 
Geiranger Fjord 
 
1 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 81 
 
 they galloped across the snowfield and up 
 the mountain side. When my companion re- 
 lumed he looked extremely hot and was 
 [pretty well blown. As he had no overcoat, 
 I wrapped the old lap-robe about him and 
 we hurried on to overtake the rest of our 
 party. Near the top of the pass we had to 
 stop to rest the horses and that gave us a 
 chance to walk on a near by snowfield. At 
 Videsaeter Hotel we had tea and saw the 
 stuffed skin of a bear, that the woman in 
 charge told us her husband had killed the 
 previous winter. She also confided to me 
 that her husband knew where there were 
 three more that he intended to kill during 
 the coming winter and, if I desired to go on 
 a first class bear hunt, it would be the oppor- 
 tunity of my life. Although I may look like 
 a first class bear hunter, it was not enough 
 to induce me to stay over, even if in addition 
 the view from the hotel was wonderful. 
 From here our road is all down hill to 
 Hjelle and a very fine road it is, but not 
 quite equal to that at Morak. From Hjelle 
 we took a boat on the Strynsvand for Min- 
 dre Sunde. On the boat an Englishman, of 
 another breed than the one with whom I 
 had been traveling, sought my company. He 
 was spending a couple of weeks fishing for 
 
»» 
 
 82 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 salmon in the stream that is the outlet of 
 the lake. If I remember rightly, he said 
 Admiral Seymour rented the stream, paying 
 for it three thousand krone per year. He 
 was quite a pleasant gentleman, probably a 
 soldier, but I did not altogether like the way 
 he "rubbed it in" to Bertie, my traveling 
 companion and his fellow countryman, who 
 was not a bad little chap, and really had a 
 sense of humor, as shown by the following 
 conundrum he got off, 
 "Why did the fly, fly?" 
 "Because the spider, spied her.' 
 Bertie wanted to join in the conversation 
 but the new man ignored him, could not 
 see him, and would change the subject as 
 soon as Bertie began to speak. On the way 
 down from Mindre Sunde, where we took 
 stolkjaerres, we saw the Admiral's fishing 
 lodge. It was a small white cottage on the 
 other side of the river and I am glad we saw 
 it, for you read so much about hunting and 
 fishing lodges, and I had never seen a lodge, 
 except a Masonic Lodge Building. To reach 
 this lodge there was a cable strung across 
 the river, from which a chair was suspended 
 by a trolley that was pulled back and forth 
 by a small line, a halyard I suppose the Ad- 
 miral would have called it. We had the 
 
BE,' 
 
 1 / ' yi 
 
 > * 
 
 U- ^. 4:; I .; 
 
 ^^m ' /-' I 
 
 
 
 Bjlll^- > 
 
 
 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 83 
 
 pleasure of seeing my salmon-fishing friend 
 crossing in the chair as we were passing. 
 Further down there is a fine Glacier Pot, 
 that was cut through when they built the 
 road. We arrived at Visnaes about eight 
 o'clock in the evening and the hotel porter 
 seemed greatly surprised when told that we 
 had come from Morale since morning. The 
 proprietor of the hotel must be something 
 of a sportsman, for he keeps a couple of 
 pointer dogs and no one keeps dogs in this 
 country unless they have use for them. In 
 the office he has some fine martin pelts that 
 he offered for sale at one hundred and fifty 
 krone apiece. He said he bought them from 
 the peasants of the neighborhood, but I 
 would not be surprised if he hunts them with 
 his dogs. That would be about a Norwe- 
 gian's idea of sport. Several days ago I met 
 a native who told me he owned two farms 
 that he kept because of the fine trout fishing. 
 I thought he was a dead game sport, and 
 asked what kind of flies he caught them 
 with. He said, "Oh! I don't catch them 
 with flies, I catch them with a net." 
 
 Monday, August ii. 
 Left Visnaes by boat for Sandene, steam- 
 ing down the Nordfjord, the scenery of 
 
84 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 which, when compared with some of the 
 other fjords, seems rather tame. The fine 
 view you get of the distant Jostcdalsbrae, 
 however, more than makes up for lack of 
 towering cliffs. Just before arriving at our 
 destination, we turned into the pretty Glop- 
 penfjord, which is flanked on the west by 
 lofty, snow-capped mountains. Went to 
 Sivertsen's Hotel for dinner. The first thing 
 I noticed, before entering the house, was the 
 outlines of a salmon cut in the flag stone of 
 the porch, and underneath was the weight, 
 "42 lbs." and a date, not very recent. The 
 next thing noticed was that all the maids 
 and waitresses about the hotel wore the gay 
 **Hardanger" costume, but that is getting 
 to be an old story now. I had a short chat 
 with the proprietor, who told me that he 
 had lived in Aberdeen, South Dakota, but, 
 having inherited this hotel, had to come back 
 to take care of it. At four oVlock in the 
 afternoon we took an automobile for Forde, 
 where we arrived in time for a late dinner. 
 On the way we passed several pretty lakes, 
 a number of good farms and rode several 
 miles through a beautiful pine wood. The 
 only drawback was the number of gates that 
 had to be opened and shut. At one place 
 an old farmer presented my wife with a 
 
o 
 
 e^ 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 85 
 
 branch thickly hung with delicious currants 
 and he did it with all the grace of a French 
 courtier of olden times. Tonight we are 
 stopping at another Sivertsen's Hotel, but 
 the salmon outlined on the flag-stone of the 
 porch is somewhat larger than the one at 
 Sandene and is labeled, "52 lbs." The wo- 
 man, who seemed to be in charge of the ho- 
 tel, told me that the same Englishman had 
 fished here for eighteen years. *'He rents 
 the river for a five year term, and has re- 
 newed the lease three times.** "Boots," 
 however, told a different story, his version 
 being that it was leased to "three parties." 
 "The first party has it during June and pays 
 one thousand krone, the second party has it 
 during July and pays five hundred krone, 
 while the third party, who has it during Au- 
 gust, pays but two hundred krone, the fish- 
 ing during the last month being very poor." 
 
 Tuesday, August 12. 
 
 The salmon fishermen disturbed my slum- 
 bers last night or early this morning. The 
 second time they awoke me, I got up, dressed, 
 and went forth to investigate. All I found 
 were some fish in a box under the big tree In 
 front of the house. There was one salmon 
 and four sea trout. While I was looking at 
 
86 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 them "Boots" appeared and after critically 
 examining the catch said, ''the salmon is 
 very poor, him been out of the sea too long.'* 
 I asked how he knew? His answer was, 
 "Because there are no lice on it." At ten 
 o'clock we took an auto for Vadheime. The 
 road soon began to climb a steep hill but, 
 after we had crossed a high divide, we came 
 to a valley where there were a number of 
 good farms and many gates to open and 
 shut. However, there were numerous chil- 
 dren waiting to open each gate, hoping there- 
 by to earn a few ore. We had with us in 
 the car a young lady who had been heralded 
 as, "one of the celebrated beauties of Nor- 
 way." Well, she seemed to be very popu- 
 lar and at almost every settlement friends 
 came forth to greet her. After passing sev- 
 eral small lakes we crossed a second divide 
 and following down a stream, through a 
 large farm that belonged to an Agricultural 
 School, arrived at a little past noon at Vad- 
 heime. Here we got a very good mid-day 
 dinner and later took the steamer up the 
 Sognefjord, which, needless to say, is not so 
 grand as I had expected. Near Vik we got 
 our first sight of the colossal, bronze statue 
 of Frithjof, lately presented to Norway by 
 the German Emperor. Not all the Nor- 
 
 I 
 
ffi 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 87 
 
 wegians are pleased by the compliment. One 
 I talked with did not like the fact that the 
 Emperor had brought forty war vessels with 
 him to the dedication, whereas Norway had 
 only twenty ships in her entire navy. In 
 fact he intimated that the German Emperor 
 might have it on his mind to gobble up some 
 of Norway's fine harbors. The boat stopped 
 for some little time at Balholm, which seems 
 to be quite a resort and has several large 
 hotels. We had supper aboard the steamer 
 and about nine o'clock arrived at Laerdal- 
 soren in a downpour of rain. After getting 
 out our rain-coats, I went on deck to see how 
 we could reach the hotel and avoid a soak- 
 ing. Two men on the dock were holding 
 up a banner with my name painted on it, so 
 I signalled to them. They came aboard and 
 told me they had carriages waiting to take 
 us to the hotel, so after pointing out our bag- 
 gage, I called the family. We made a dash 
 for the rigs, tumbled in and were driven 
 through the rain to our hostelry, which was 
 quite a distance from the landing place. 
 
 Wednesday, August 13. 
 Our object in coming to Laerdalsoren is to 
 visit the Church of Borgund, one of the old- 
 est and best preserved "stavekirkes" in Nor- 
 
88 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 way. After breakfast we got into a couple 
 of caleches, that I had engaged last night of 
 our friends who bore the '^strange device" 
 and we started on our all day ride; the boys, 
 ahead in the rig drawn by the buckskin bron- 
 chos, Maud, Marian; and I following, be- 
 hind a pair of dark bays. Of course there 
 were a couple of drivers along but, as they 
 could not speak a word of English, they did 
 not count. Our route was up the valley of the 
 Laera, a famous salmon river, that has been 
 made convenient for the sportsmen by 
 means of light iron bridges and ladders, so 
 they can reach with ease the best points for 
 fishing. I was told that one man paid ten 
 thousand dollars per annum for the fishing 
 privileges but I doubt the truth of the story, 
 as it is too long a stream to be fished from 
 one locality, so it is probably let to several 
 parties for a sum total equal to that amount. 
 Above Husum, which is quite a resort for 
 trout fishing, begins the picturesque gorge 
 called Svartegjel, after passing through 
 which, the valley broadens and soon we came 
 to the old stavekirke. Borgund Church dates 
 from about 1150, but is first mentioned in 
 1360. This kind of a building is called a 
 **stavekirke'* to distinguish it from churches 
 erected since the Reformation, which are 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 89 
 
 built of logs laid horizontally. In fact it is 
 said that no stavekirkes were built after the 
 Reformation. In this kind of a building the 
 walls consist of corner posts connected by 
 sills below and plates above, with the spaces 
 between the posts filled in by vertical planks, 
 mortised to each other and fitted into 
 grooves in the sills and plates. The plan, so 
 far as a difference of material allows, is that 
 of the Anglo-Norman church of the period. 
 To the rectangular body of the church is 
 added a square choir ending in a semircircle. 
 The broad and lofty nave is separated from 
 the low, narrow aisles by wooden columns. 
 Over the gabled roof of the nave rises a 
 square tower, ending in a slender spire. The 
 dragon-head enrichments of the gables re- 
 semble that of a ship's prow of Viking times. 
 The roof of the choir is lower, and is 
 crowned by a round turret with a conical cap. 
 Around the whole building runs a low ar- 
 cade, which according to popular belief was 
 used as a shelter in bad weather before and 
 after service, and undoubtedly did serve to 
 preserve the building's most important parts 
 the ground-sills from damp and decay. When 
 I asked our old guide as to the use of this 
 gallery he insisted it was intended as a place 
 for the Vikings to store their arms and 
 
90 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 armor before entering the sacred building. 
 My own opinion is, that while it may have 
 served for all these purposes, it was origin- 
 ally intended for a woodshed. When you 
 enter the church and the doors are closed, 
 the only light admitted is through small 
 openings high up on the walls of the nave. 
 A guide book says, "Window glass was un- 
 known in Norway at that period, and the 
 services probably consisted solely of the 
 Mass, chanted in the candle-lighted choir, 
 while the congregation knelt in the dark 
 nave." Dark and cold it must have been on 
 a Norwegian winter morning, when the sun 
 did not rise until after ten o'clock, unless 
 someone had common sense enough to build 
 a bon-fire in the middle of the church, to 
 give light and warmth to the congregation 
 kneeling or seated around. I say, "seated 
 around" for there is still a seat extending 
 all the way around the church next to the 
 wall, save where the doors are cut through, 
 and there were probably movable seats in 
 front. At the time this church was built 
 the dwelling houses of the people were usu- 
 ally heated by a fire on a stone hearth in the 
 middle of the room, while above there was 
 a hole in the roof through which the smoke 
 escaped. Now what about the square 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 91 
 
 tower, With its ornamented gables over the 
 nave? It was not the bell tower but must 
 have had some use, otherwise I do not be- 
 lieve it would have been put there, even 
 though the old Vikings were lavish in deco- 
 rations. Certainly it would make a fine 
 chimney, if properly arranged, and, if that 
 was its object and they actually had a fire up- 
 on occasions In the church, a large shed would 
 be necessary in which to store the winters 
 supply of fire-wood and where could you 
 find a more convenient place than in the ar- 
 cade about the church. I have mentioned 
 the doors. They are two at present, one to 
 the south and the main portal to the west. 
 The capitals of the columns, the doors, and 
 the door frames are embellished with elab- 
 orate and intricate carvings of dragons and 
 other figures. In fact the western doorway 
 is a wonderful work of art and goes far to 
 prove that the Northmen of that day were 
 experts in designing. During the drive back 
 to Laerdalsoren we had a shower but with 
 the tops of the caleches up and the water 
 proof lap robes tucked about us we did not 
 get wet. 
 
 Thursday, August 14. 
 We took a boat this morning for Gudvan- 
 gen, which is at the head of the Naerofjord, 
 
92 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 one of the narrowest and gloomiest chasms 
 in Norway. The mountains surrounding 
 Gudvangen are so abrupt and high that the 
 little hamlet never sees the sun in winter. 
 We only paused there long enough to engage 
 stolkjaerres to take us on to Stalheim. After 
 a ride of an hour or so we came to the foot 
 of the Stalheimsklev, which abruptly closes 
 the valley. Here we had to get out and 
 walk up the "klev" or clijff, as it was impos- 
 sible for the ponies to haul more than the 
 carts and our hand luggage up the sixteen 
 steep zig-zags by which the top is reached. 
 Right and left are the Sivlefos and the Stal- 
 heimsfos, two very picturesque waterfalls, 
 and just at the top, between, is the big, red 
 Hotel Stalheim, where dinner awaits us, 
 otherwise I don't imagine we would have 
 persevered in climbing. During the after- 
 noon wc walked up to the "Keiser Wilhelm's 
 Hoi'* above the hotel, from which point we 
 had a fine view down the Naerodal, but the 
 view is hardly as impressive as when you 
 lean over the wall in front of the hotel, for 
 from there it would be easy to toss a pebble 
 so It would not strike anything until it 
 reached the floor of the valley eight hun- 
 dred feet below. The German Emperor 
 seems to be popular here. In fact they have 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 93 
 
 framed the page of the hotel register on 
 which he inscribed his name and hung it up 
 in the office, but I suppose he is not to blame 
 for that. An Irish gentleman and his wife, 
 whom we met at Laerdal and who bade us 
 goodby at Gudvangen, came up to the hotel 
 this afternoon. As he greeted me like a 
 long-lost friend he told me in a half apolo- 
 getic way that he found the "Goodharbor" 
 too tough for him. I don't know just what 
 he meant, but suppose the hotel was not sat- 
 isfactory. Certainly the hotel here is all that 
 one could expect, but it is probably run by 
 a German or a Swiss. 
 
 Friday, August 15. 
 
 After breakfast we distributed ourselves 
 among three stolkjaerres and started on the 
 drive to Voss. The two boys wanted to go 
 together and Maud had to have Marian 
 with her, so that left me alone in my glory. 
 We were closely followed by the Irishman, 
 his wife and their friend, "WuUy," who rode 
 together in a caleche. We trotted down the 
 long incline behind the Hotel Stalheim until 
 we came to the river. Following up the 
 stream through the pine clad valley past sev- 
 eral saw mills, we came in time to a beauti- 
 ful lake. The water was so still that all the 
 
94 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 hills, woods, and farms on the opposite side 
 were reflected on its mirror-like surface. 
 Nothing ruffled the water but the rings where 
 a trout would leap for a fly. As we drove 
 along the banks we passed a monument that 
 commemorates the death of two American 
 travelers who perished by an accident. If I 
 rightly understood my *'gut," "Them horse 
 run him into lake, kill," was the way he told 
 how it happened. His vocabulary was 
 mostly limited to "yes" and "no" and gen- 
 erally those words were used in the wrong 
 way; for instance, when I asked if cheese 
 was made of goat's milk, he answered, 
 "no," and it was only after long delibera- 
 tion that he gave the above lucid answer to 
 my inquiries about the monument. Voss or 
 Vossevangen is quite a town and is sur- 
 rounded by some of the best farm land in 
 western Norway. As we had over an hour 
 to spare before dinner would be served at 
 Fleischer's Hotel, we went to see an old 
 "loft" which is the name they give to a two 
 story farm house as opposed to the "stue" 
 or house of one story. This particular "loft" 
 is said to date from A. D. 1300 and, if I 
 remember aright, our guide told us it was 
 built by a burgomaster. It was an old wo- 
 man who showed us about the place, first 
 
Statue of Frith j of 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 95 
 
 leading us up an outside stair and through 
 a gallery into the upper room, which had 
 originally been lighted by small triangular 
 openings in the walls, that were closed by 
 wooden shutters. In more recent times 
 glazed sashes had been inserted in the south- 
 ern wall of the room to supply light. In this 
 room was stored quite an assortment of old 
 chairs, beds, tables, wooden platters, jugs, 
 carved mangling boards, and other house- 
 hold furniture. Down stairs there were 
 several rooms and in them more rude, rural 
 antiquities, like old harness, with carved 
 hames and bow-saddles, sleds, sleigh-bells, 
 side saddles, and old chests. After dinner we 
 took an automobile for Eide. The road at first 
 gradually ascended until it crossed a divide, 
 then it followed down a stream until it came 
 to a place where there are huge rocks on 
 either hand and the valley suddenly ends; 
 the road, however, does not, but descends by 
 numerous windings into the Skjervet, a deep 
 ravine flanked by high cliffs. On the left is 
 the Skjervefos, which comes down by two 
 leaps, the upper fall being a smooth, per- 
 pendicular sheet of water, then there is a 
 level space where the road crosses by a stone 
 arch and below that a shute down which the 
 water rushes, boiling and bubbling, to a quiet 
 
96 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 pool far below. After stopping for dinner 
 at Maeland's Hotel in Eide, we took the 
 boat on the Hardanger Fjord to Odda, 
 where we arrived about half past ten o'clock 
 and put up at the Hardanger Hotel for the 
 rest of the night.; 
 
 Saturday, August i6. 
 Shortly after breakfast we took the 
 steamer for Bergen and all the day will be 
 spent on the famous Hardanger Fjord, the 
 most often visited and best known of the 
 Norwegian fjords. It presents a typical ex- 
 ample of Norwegian scenery; the broad wa- 
 ters of the fjord, the bold, rocky banks, the 
 strips of fertile, farm land fringing the 
 water, the forests on the mountain sides, and, 
 above all, the great snow-fields of the Folge- 
 fond extending from peak to peak. Aside 
 from its scenery, the Hardanger Fjord is 
 famous for two other things. The Hardan- 
 ger violin, which, having never seen, I can- 
 not describe, and the costumes of its women. 
 These costumes we have had with us at 
 almost every hotel where we have stopped 
 since we landed at Morak. It consists of the 
 **skaut," a peculiarly folded white linen cap, 
 that now Is seldom worn, a crimson, sleeve- 
 less bodice, trimmed with beads, worn over 
 a white, shirt waist that has big puffed 
 
BORGUND StAVEKIRKE 
 
4 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 97 
 
 sleeves, with a skirt of dark cloth, that 
 is protected in front by an apron of embroid- 
 ered linen, but, strange to say, while most 
 of the waitresses and maids in the hotels 
 hereabout wear it, the natives seem to have 
 discarded the costume. Odda is very pictur- 
 esquely situated but the scenery is marred by 
 the tall, smoky chimneys of its carbide fac- 
 tories. Steaming down the fjord, we again 
 touched at Eide and then passed through 
 ever changing, beautiful scenery until we 
 came to Norheimsund, which is in my hum- 
 ble opinion one of the most attractive spots 
 in Norway. It is situated on a beautiful, 
 island dotted bay and the view across the 
 fjord with the Folgefond, looming above the 
 intervening hills, is admirable. Along to- 
 wards supper time we entered the Byfjord 
 and ran into a fog, but, as we neared the City 
 of Bergen, the sun came out and, as the light 
 glittered upon the spires and domes of the 
 town, it looked quite fairy like. Our boat 
 entered the west harbor and we landed at 
 a crowded pier, got into cabs and were 
 driven to the Norga Hotel. This evening 
 Charles' friend, Peter, called. 
 
 Sunday, August 17. 
 As we were all tired, we slept quite late 
 
98 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 this morning but managed to get up in time 
 for the last Mass at a nearby church. Com- 
 ing out of church, I noticed a Frenchman 
 and his family that we have run across sev- 
 eral times during our travels from the North 
 Cape down to here. No, there was no pretty 
 madamoiselle along but there was a small 
 boy who wore short socks and had his thin, 
 little legs bare up to his knees, that is why 
 I have noticed the family. During the after- 
 noon we took a walk and found the streets 
 crowded. It feels good to get back to a 
 town of some size, where you can see a num- 
 ber of people. 
 
 Monday, August i8. 
 Spent the day going with Maud and 
 Marian. We visited several fur shops and 
 at one of the largest establishments saw | 
 some beautiful furs, mostly fox skins. They 
 had some magnificent silver tipped blacks, 
 that were very high priced. Then, there 
 were red and cross fox pelts. Finally, con- 
 sidering them more appropriate, I selected 
 four nice blue fox skins and told the dealer 
 to make them up in a muff and stole for 
 Marian. I wanted to get an ermine wrap 
 for Maud, but she would not let me, saying 
 she thought it too high priced. Well, it was 
 
o 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 99 
 
 a beauty and she will never get as good a 
 one so cheap. This evening Charles went 
 to dinner at Peter's home. Of course, he 
 and Peter are the best of friends, but I im- 
 agine that a pretty sister was the principal 
 attraction. In addition to the sister there 
 was the father, mother and an uncle, and 
 from the condition of my "hopeful", when he 
 got home early in the morning, the toasts 
 must have been frequent and varied. Never 
 mind, we are only young once in a life time. 
 
 Tuesday, August 19. 
 We took the train for Christiania early 
 this morning. The railway, which connects 
 the two largest cities of Norway, is a won- 
 derful piece of engineering work and was 
 only completed in 1909. At first the road 
 skirts the Sorfjord, on the way passing 
 through many tunnels. Finally, by means of 
 one half a mile long, the railway enters the 
 Vosseelve. Turning and twisting, it follows 
 up that valley until it reaches Voss, the place 
 at which we took dinner last Friday while 
 on our way to the Hardanger Fjord. This 
 part of the railway has been long completed 
 but from Voss on it is new, until we are 
 across the mountains. After leaving Voss 
 the road begins to rapidly ascend and finally 
 
100 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 reaches Myrdal, where the higher level road 
 begins. From there on to Fense the scenery 
 becomes quite arctic in appearance, as there 
 are great snow-fields all around, even in mid- 
 summer. For miles the train passes through 
 a succession of snow-sheds and tunnels, but 
 at last begins to descend and soon enters 
 the Halling-Elv, following down that valley 
 until Lake Kroderen is reached, when it 
 again begins to climb, until it is four hun- 
 dred and sixty feet above the water of the 
 lake, when turning to the left, it passes 
 through a long tunnel and immerges in the 
 Sognedal, which it follows down to Hone- 
 fos. From there the railway swings around 
 in a great loop and enters Christiania from 
 the north-east instead of the north-west, as 
 it should, if there were no mountains in the 
 way. We arrived at our destination quite 
 late in the evening and went to the Victoria 
 Hotel, where they gave us very nice rooms. 
 
 Wednesday, August 20 
 
 Most of the forenoon was spent in hunt- 
 ing up our trunks, that had been forwarded 
 to this place from Trondhjem. I finally got 
 them delivered to the hotel, and then we all 
 took a bath and put on clean clothing, the 
 supply of which had run short. In the mean- 
 

 
 
 
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A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 101 
 
 time, while I was on my hunt, Maud, look- 
 ing out for the future, had sent the contents 
 of the dirty clothes bag to be laundered. 
 This hotel is quite an improvement, in some 
 respects — to name one, "sanitary plumb- 
 ing — " over the hotel where we stopped when 
 here before. The only thing against the Vic- 
 toria is the location, which is not in a pretty 
 part of the town. When the Grand Hotel 
 completes the improvements, that are at 
 present under way, it will probably be the 
 best place in the city to stop, but at present 
 there is no place that can be called "first 
 class." During the afternoon we visited a 
 gallery of modern paintings, a place where 
 they were for sale. Most of the pictures 
 were by native artists and while some were 
 excellent, I saw nothing that tempted me to 
 buy. 
 
 Thursday, August 21. 
 
 Raphael and I went up to call on Captain 
 Stephensen. He was not at home. On the 
 way back I stopped at the ticket office and 
 bought tickets to Stockholm, at the same 
 time reserving a compartment in the train 
 that leaves to-morrow morning at seven- 
 fifteen. This afternoon Captain Stephensen 
 called. The family was out but he stayed 
 
102 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 and, when they returned, took them to see a 
 wonderful, new ship, without masts or 
 smoke-stacks, and with an engine that uses 
 crude petroleum, a supply of which it car- 
 ries, sufficient to take it to South America 
 and back. It is to sail for its distant port 
 tomorrow and carries a large cargo and a 
 number of passengers. My people were very 
 much interested in what they saw and tried 
 to describe it to me on their return, but the 
 only thing I really understood was that the 
 power is furnished by what is called a 
 "Diezel Engine.'* I asked if it was like a 
 gasoline motor. They seemed to think it 
 was different. The captain stopped for din- 
 ner and later his wife and son called and we 
 had a very pleasant evening, but found it 
 somewhat difficult to carry on a general con- 
 versation as madam's and the young man's 
 knowledge of English was almost as limited 
 as was our knowledge of Norwegian. 
 
 Friday, August 22. 
 
 Had to get up early this morning to catch 
 the train. For a short distance we followed 
 the same route that we took on our first trip 
 from Christiania. At Lillestrom we diver- 
 ged from the Eidsvold line and followed up 
 the east bank of the River Glommen, a 
 
A Stolkjaerre 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 103 
 
 Stream that is mostly filled with huge timber 
 rafts. At Kongsvinger we parted from the 
 Glommen, the railway turning south east. 
 We bade goodbye to Norway and entered 
 Sweden at Charlottenberg. The province 
 that we entered, Vermland, is rather flat, 
 with numerous lakes and abundant forests. 
 The farms seem to be larger and better than 
 those of Norway. Karlstad on Lake Ven- 
 ern is the principal town of the district. As 
 it rained most of the day, probably the 
 scenery along the way did not look as cheer- 
 ful as it might have under different circum- 
 stances. There was a dining car attached to 
 the train, which was fortunate. After pass- 
 ing through a number of small towns, we 
 arrived at Stockholm about nine o'clock in 
 the evening and went direct to the Regina 
 Hotel, where they gave us very pleasant 
 rooms, facing on a busy street. 
 
 Saturday, August 23, 
 It is a bright day and Stockholm looks 
 very gay, especially down towards the Royal 
 Palace, which is on a small island. We 
 walked along the quay past the Opera 
 House to the National Museum and, enter- 
 ing, went up to the second flooor where the 
 Picture Gallery is located. It contains many 
 
104 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 fine works of seventeenth century Dutch 
 Masters and of the French School of the 
 following century. Among the famous 
 paintings by Dutch Masters, here exhibited, 
 are two by Rubens, the "Sacrifice to Fertil- 
 ity" and a ^'Bacchanalian Scene," copied at 
 Rome in 1605, from famous works of 
 Titlan*s now in Madrid. Between these is 
 Rembrant's ^'Conspiracy of the Batavlans 
 under Claudius Civilis against the Romans," 
 painted in 1662 for the Town Hall of Am- 
 sterdam and after the "Night Watch," the 
 largest work by that master. There are also 
 several admirable portraits by Rembrant, 
 the best being the "Portrait of his cook." 
 Frans Hals* "Fiddler" is an excellent ex- 
 ample of that artist's work. Then there are 
 several fine paintings by Jordaens, but the 
 one by him that especially attracted our at- 
 tention was, "The Lydian King Candaules 
 tempting his favorite Gyges." The small 
 Dutch pictures are hung in the cabinets ad- 
 joining this gallery and are well worth care- 
 ful study. In the "French Sal," is a collec- 
 tion that is equalled In only one or two places 
 outside of Paris. There are several works 
 by Frangols Boucher, the finest of which is 
 the "Triumph of Venus," perhaps his mas- 
 terpiece. Among the eight subjects by Jean 
 
> 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 105 
 
 Baptiste Oudry, the animal painter, the best 
 is the "Stag Hunt." There are also fine ex- 
 amples of the works of La Moyne, J. M. 
 Nattier, Van Loo, and Chardin. Then there 
 are three beautiful little pieces by Lancret, 
 two of which, "The Swing" and "Blind- 
 man' s-Buff", are very popular in engravings 
 and color prints. However, our principal 
 reason for coming here was to see what 
 Swedish artists had accomplished. Painting, 
 as an art in Sweden, only dates back to the 
 end of the seventeenth century, and most 
 of the earlier artists were portrait painters 
 connected with the court. If, however, 
 there are no very old Swedish Masters, the 
 country has produced some wonderful mod- 
 ern artists. Cederstrom's "Body of Charles 
 XIL, on its way to Sweden," is a very im- 
 pressive winter scene, well interpreted. Hell- 
 qvist's canvas called "The Sacking of Wis- 
 by" is full of life and color. These two 
 works show what can be accomplished in 
 the way of historical paintings, even when 
 the subject is of little importance. Liljefors, 
 the animal painter, shows wonderful variety 
 in his works. Sometimes he paints what 
 might be called a study in white. As when 
 he puts a white hare or ptarmigan in a 
 snowy landscape, and, when you first look 
 
106 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 at the picture, the creature is invisible, but 
 after a time, it gradually takes form, and 
 you wonder why you have not seen it before. 
 Then again, his pictures are full of color, 
 as in one, where he represents a pair of 
 foxes stealing through a sunlit wood. Others 
 are somber, as in the case of his "Eagles on 
 the Wing," which represents the birds amid 
 stormy clouds above a raging sea. Again, 
 in the **Wild-Geese,** a flock of birds are 
 lighting on a low sandy spit, with lurid clouds 
 and dark waters for a back ground. Zorn 
 is all color. Reproductions of his works, 
 however, are so popular and numerous, that 
 I shall not try to describe them. Another 
 artist that is very popular is Carl Larsson, 
 whose water colors of peasant life are 
 charming. On the first floor of this build- 
 ing is a very fine Ceramic Collection. 
 
 Sunday, August 24. 
 This morning we went to Mass at a little 
 Catholic chapel a couple of blocks back of 
 the hotel. The exterior was just like the 
 rest of the houses in the block, but inside 
 it was quite a nice little church. Almost all 
 of the Swedes are Lutherans and churches 
 of other denominations are rare, for, aside 
 
u 
 
 X 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 107 
 
 from this chapel, the only houses of wor- 
 ship other than Lutheran in Stockholm are 
 a Russian church and a synagogue. In the 
 afternoon we took a walk through the park 
 and across the bridge to the small island on 
 which stands the Riksdagshus or Parlia- 
 ment House. After a short pause to admire 
 the architecture of the building, we crossed 
 a second bridge to the island of Staden on 
 which the Royal Palace stands. The Palace 
 IS a large but rather plain building. Front- 
 ing the bridge, over which we came, is the 
 handsome approach to it called the Lejon- 
 backen, from the bronze lions with which it 
 IS adorned. Turning north, we walked 
 around the building, past the east front, 
 where there seems to be a high, terraced 
 garden: thence along the south fagade, 
 which seems to be the principal front of the 
 Palace and is decorated with statuary and 
 trophies cast in metal. I was going to say 
 bronze, but someone told me they were lead. 
 At a gate near the south-west corner, we 
 entered the court yard, but after looking 
 about, decided not to try to see the interior 
 today. Returning, we continued along the 
 west front and crossed a bridge that leads 
 to an arcade back of the Riksdagshus and 
 
108 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 which connects that building with the new 
 Riksbank. From there we returned to our 
 hotel. 
 
 Monday, August 25. 
 
 We all went to the Northern Museum 
 today. It is an imposing, gabled edifice, 
 built of reddish stone in the *'Vasa Style'* 
 and is located on an island called the *'Djur- 
 gard," once an old deer-park. The collec- 
 tion consists of old Swedish furniture, im- 
 plements, ornaments and costumes, to which 
 has been recently added the collection of the 
 Royal armory and Regalia chamber, consist- 
 ing of weapons, court-costumes and histori- 
 cal memorials, formerly preserved in the pal- 
 ace. In the great hall are numerous suits of 
 armor, among others a fine Maximilian 
 fluted suit. Then there is a suit that once 
 belonged to Gustavus Vasa, made at Augs- 
 burg in 1540. Another, a superb equestrian 
 suit that belonged to Erik XIV., was made 
 by Lochner of Nuremberg. Finally, there is 
 the helmet of Gustavus Adolphus, which 
 weighs over thirty-two pounds, and many 
 other memorials of that monarch, including 
 a blood-stained shirt, said to have been worn 
 by him when he fell at the battle of Lutzen. 
 In addition, there are all kinds of weapons. 
 

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A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 109 
 
 uniforms, and court costumes of lesser Swed- 
 ish Royalty, but after all the most interest- 
 ing part of the collection is that intended to 
 illustrate Swedish peasant life. This part 
 of the exhibit is arranged by provinces, and 
 a number of rooms are reproductions of the 
 interior of those in peasants' cottages. Typ- 
 ical examples are, Room i : Province of 
 Skane. Peasants' cottage from near Ingle- 
 stad. The floor consists of well-pounded 
 clay, strewn with sand. Above the gaily- 
 colored, curtained bed-stead there is a strap 
 to help the person in bed to raise himself. 
 To the left of the bed is the "goose-bench" 
 for geese, when sitting on their eggs. The 
 room has been arranged for some festive oc- 
 casion. The walls are covered with tapes- 
 try; on the benches and chairs are many-col- 
 ored cushions; and the table is laid for a 
 feast with curious looking utensils. Room 
 4: Province of Skane. This apartment 
 along with other things contains a splendid 
 collection of painted implements for the 
 preparation of flax, among which the scutch- 
 ing-knives and scutching-blocks deserve spec- 
 ial notice. Scutching-knives were generally 
 made by young men for their sweethearts, 
 and were therefore gaily painted and artis- 
 tically carved. Then there are spinning and 
 
no A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 weaving implements, mangling boards for 
 rolling the linen, and blocks of glass that 
 served as flat-irons. Blocks of glass of the 
 same shape as those exhibited here have 
 been found in graves of the ninth century. 
 Room 15: Province of Dalecarlia. Interior 
 of a peasant's cottage in the parish of Ratt- 
 vik. The walls belong to a cottage pulled 
 down in 1870. In the fire-place there is a 
 niche called "the big hole" intended for 
 wood; the *'smoke canopy" is supported by 
 an iron post with a movable arm, on which 
 the kettle was hung. The whole of the main 
 wall in the background is occupied by a 
 closet-bed with shutters. The bed consists 
 of three tiers; the lowest, which in the day- 
 time is covered by a flap, is in the form of a 
 drawer that can be pulled out. Room 21: 
 Province of Helsingland. Room from 
 Delsbo, properly a state room for great oc- 
 casions. In this apartment the weddings 
 were celebrated, the new-born baptized, and 
 the dead laid in state. Ceilings like the one 
 in this room are rare in peasants' homes. 
 The paintings on the ceiling and walls were 
 done by a local artist of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury. The windows have small leaded panes 
 of greenish glass. In the left corner is the 
 bed with a cupboard in the end of it. The 
 
Aabo-Elv, Odda 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 111 
 
 table Is of an old-fashioned type. Beside 
 it is a bench with a movable back and there 
 are old-fashioned chairs, a large blue cup- 
 board ornamented with flowers, a grand- 
 father's clock of the kind typical of this 
 neighborhood, and various other household 
 utensils. In other rooms are collected ob- 
 jects that give an Insight Into the customs 
 In olden times among Swedish country peo- 
 ple. Most of the objects are of purely local 
 origin, but a few, especially from southern 
 Sweden, show foreign Influence. Tables, 
 chairs, beds, chests, and the like are mostly 
 substantial and massive; the carving often 
 showing artistic merit. Metal Is used al- 
 most solely for tools. Glass Is rare, but pot- 
 tery common. The cloth, carpets, and lace 
 are strong and made to wear. The colors 
 are primary and vivid. 
 
 Tuesday, August 26. 
 To continue yesterday's course of studies 
 we went to-day to see Skansen. It is an 
 open-air museum in an enclosure of about 
 seventy acres, quite close to the Northern 
 Museum, and is Intended to Illustrate the 
 natural history and ethnography of Sweden. 
 The fauna and flora are fully represented, 
 while dwellings from different districts, many 
 
112 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 of which have been presented by patrons, 
 complete the picture. The collection is not 
 so picturesque as the similar one of Norwe- 
 gian buildings at Christiania, but in a way 
 it is more instructive as it gives a better il- 
 lustration of primitive man^s progress in 
 planning and erecting his house. After the 
 Norseman rose superior to the wattled hut, 
 his first structure was probably the "fire 
 house," of which a good example brought 
 from Solleron is shown. The fire house con- 
 sisted of a single room, the walls of which 
 were constructed of round logs, notched at 
 the corners and built like the *'log cabins" 
 of the American pioneers. The roof, which 
 rested on round ridges, was made of split 
 logs, laid in alternate layers flat side up and 
 down. Over the hearth in the middle of 
 the room there was an opening left in the 
 roof that served as an outlet for the smoke 
 and allowed light to enter. A hood of split 
 logs which inclined towards the apex was 
 often placed over the opening to prevent 
 rain and snow from falling into the fire. 
 The door was in one of the gable-ends and 
 was protected in time by a kind of porch 
 formed by the projection of the roof and 
 side walls. The ground plan of the struc- 
 ture is shown by figure i. 
 
Hardanger Girls 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 113 
 
 At the end of the room, furthest from 
 the door, was a rough shelf that served for 
 a bed. The cooking was done on the open 
 hearth and a rude table with a bench or two 
 completed the furniture. In time the open 
 porch was transformed into an enclosed en- 
 trance hall, which was furnished with a door 
 in the gable opposite the doorway of the 
 living room, and thus our Norseman has ad- 
 
 J L 
 
 Fig. 2 
 
 
 I I 
 
114 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 vanced one step in civilization by adding an- 
 other room to his house. The ground plan 
 of this building is shown by figure 2, which 
 is the plan of the fire house brought from 
 Hjarpesbodar. 
 
 However, the position of the doors, one 
 opposite the other, did not prevent rain and 
 snow from beating into this house when it 
 was stormy and the doors were opened. The 
 outer door had, therefore, by the close of 
 heathen times, in many places been moved 
 to one side of the hallway so that it came 
 at right angles to the *'house door." If the 
 inner part of the entrance floor was shut off 
 as a separate little room or "kove," we 
 have a ground plan like figure 3. 
 
 I 
 
 Kove 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 Hall 
 
 f - 
 
 This was the plan of many of the houses 
 mentioned in the "sagas" and is the plan of 
 the Mora house shown here, except that in 
 that structure there is a stone chimney and 
 
r. 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 115 
 
 a fire-place, instead of a simple hearth. We 
 visited the various other exhibits, illustrating 
 this gradual development in house-building, 
 and inspected examples of out-buildings and 
 store-houses; then, more elaborate struc- 
 tures like the Has jo-steeple and the Framme- 
 stad ; finally leaving them to see the collection 
 of wild animals and birds. Probably the 
 rarest of the animals, and to us the most in- 
 teresting, were the European bison and elk. 
 The bison looks very much like our buffalo ; 
 and the elk, quite like our moose. Other 
 animals that interested us were the otters 
 and foxes. In the tank, where the otters 
 were kept, one little animal was playing with 
 a stone, which he balanced on his head as 
 he swam around in the water. In the fox 
 cage were several rare black and blue foxes. 
 
 Wednesday, August 27. 
 We went to Upsala today, for, like Trond- 
 hjem in Norway, Upsala is the historic cen- 
 ter of Sweden. Gamla Upsala, four kilo- 
 meters north of the present town, was the 
 seat of the early pagan kings of Sweden. 
 The first Christian king of Sweden was Olaf 
 Eriksson about A. D. 1000. He was suc- 
 ceeded by several Christian kings, but the 
 northern Svear rebelled and set up Blot-Sven 
 
116 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 ( 
 
 c(. 
 
 ifici 
 
 .>» 
 
 ) as a rival king and 
 
 sacnncing man 
 stored paganism. It was only after long 
 struggles that Erick Jedvardsson (the 
 *'Saint";d. 1160) restored Christianity. In 
 1 1 64 an archbishopric was established here. 
 In 1276 the archepiscopal residence was 
 transferred to the present town, while the 
 kings migrated to Stockholm. The Univer- 
 sity, the focus of the modern life of Upsala, 
 was founded by Archbishop Jacob Ulf sson in 
 1477. We first went to see the Cathedral, 
 which is in the center of the town on the 
 slope of the right bank of the River Fyrisa. 
 The building was begun in 1260, and the re- 
 sult was the largest church in Scandinavia. 
 Architecturally it is Gothic, modeled after 
 the French style; modified to suit the ma- 
 terial, which is red brick. This is accounted 
 for by the fact that the first architect was 
 Etienne de Bonneuil, who had been an as- 
 sistant at Notre Dame in Paris before he 
 came here. The contract was concluded at 
 Paris, September 8, 1287, but the work ad- 
 vanced slowly, for the Cathedral was not 
 consecrated until 1435. The building is 390 
 feet in length by 147 feet in width and, like 
 most churches in Scandinavia, has suffered 
 several times from fire, but was completely 
 restored in 1883-93 ^^ ^ cost of over a 
 
4 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 117 
 
 million krone, when the slender copper- 
 sheathed spires were added. Visitors enter 
 by the west door. Passing through a vesti- 
 bule, we entered the nave and were at once 
 struck by the long rows of pillars that sup- 
 port the lofty vaulting. There are numer- 
 ous small chapels adjoining the side aisles, 
 which in Catholic times were consecrated 
 to Apostles and Saints, but that, since the 
 Reformation, have been used to glorify kings 
 and statesmen. The only one that interested 
 us was the "Finsta Chapel,** named after 
 St. Birgitta*s father, Birger Pedersson of 
 Finsta. The walls of this chapel are adorned 
 with the crests of the family and portraits 
 of St. Birgitta and her daughter St. Kata- 
 rina. St. Birgitta or St. Bridget of Sweden, 
 as she is commonly called, at the age of 
 thirteen was married to Ulf Gudmarsson, 
 and we are told, "She acquired great influ- 
 ence over her noble and pious husband, and 
 the happy marriage was blessed with eight 
 children, among them St. Catherine of Swe- 
 den." In the chapel lie Birgitta's parents. 
 Judge Birger Pedersson (d. 1328) and his 
 wife Ingeborg Bengtsdotter, and on the 
 ledge are their effigies in costumes of the 
 fourteenth century. The adjoining chapel, 
 known as that of King Gustaf Vasa, is the 
 
118 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 oldest of all the chapels. It is behind the 
 main altar and during the Middle Ages was 
 consecrated to the Virgin Mary. In 1560 
 the bodies of King Gustaf I., and his two 
 queens were brought here and deposited in 
 the crypt below. In the middle of the chapel 
 is a monument of elaborate Renaissance de- 
 sign, in yellowish marble, with the recum- 
 bent figures of the king and his two queens. 
 Facing this chapel at the back of the main 
 altar, in a receptacle of iron grill work, is 
 the shrine of St. Erik, containing the bones 
 of the king, a crown, and part of his gar- 
 ments. At the east end of the north aisle 
 is a flight of stairs leading to the Treasury. 
 Here are preserved an interesting collection 
 of ancient vestments and hangings that be- 
 long to the church. Every century from the 
 twelfth down is represented. Besides the 
 ecclesiastical vestments, the collection con- 
 tains two groups of rare and valuable tex- 
 tile objects of secular origin, the so-called 
 Sture garments, consisting of costumes worn 
 by the Counts Sture, who were murdered in 
 the castle of Upsala in 1567. The second 
 group are the so-called Margareta relics, 
 brought home by King Carl X., after the 
 treaty of Roeskilde from the cathedral of 
 that city, supposed to have belonged to 
 
Upsala Cathedral 
 
i 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 119 
 
 Queen Margareta of Denmark (d. 1412) 
 and deposited here in 1658. Taken together 
 they give a very good idea of what was worn 
 by men and women of the nobility during 
 the Middle Ages. On leaving the church 
 we went around to see the south door, which 
 dates from 1300 and is considered the finest 
 of the three portals. From the church we 
 went to the University Library, as we wished 
 to see the famous Codex Argenteus, a trans- 
 lation of the four Gospels into Moeso- 
 Gothic, made by Bishop Ulphilas in the 
 fourth century. The custodian led us into 
 the Exhibition Room and showed us this 
 ancient book. It is written in letters of 
 gold and silver upon one hundred and eighty- 
 seven leaves of red parchment, that time has 
 faded to a soft purple, and is bound in an 
 elaborate wrought silver cover that prob- 
 ably was made a thousand years after the 
 book was written and yet may have been old 
 when the Pilgrim Fathers landed in America. 
 This precious work was among the plunder 
 taken by the Swedes at Prague in 1648, and 
 was presented by Queen Christina to Vos- 
 sius, her librarian, who in turn sold it for 
 four hundred krone to the University. From 
 the library we walked to the Slot on the hill 
 south of the city, but it is an ugly old build- 
 
120 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 ing and there was little to see except the view 
 of the town, the plain beyond, and the site 
 of Gamla Upsala in the distance, marked by 
 a little white church. On our way back to 
 the station we met a company of Swedish 
 soldiers that were out for a practice march. 
 They were quite a husky looking lot of men, 
 but not at all modern. 
 
 Thursday, August 28. 
 Did not feel well this morning, so I took 
 a rest. Spent the afternoon in making ar- 
 rangements for continuing our trip. Got 
 tickets to Wisby, Kalmar, and as far as 
 Copenhagen. Then went to a forwarding 
 company and made arrangements to have 
 our trunks sent to the last place, as I did 
 not want the trouble of many transfers. 
 It is very entertaining to watch the busy 
 harbor front of this city with the many boats, 
 coming and going. Townsmen leaving for 
 a holiday in the country and country folks 
 coming to the city on business. Stockholm is 
 quite different from what I had expected. It 
 is a very handsome city with most of the 
 houses built in the French style. Then the 
 the people look like Frenchmen. In fact 
 most of them are dark, and not blonds like 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 121 
 
 the Swedes that come to America, who are 
 mostly peasants from the rural parts. 
 
 Friday, August 29. 
 
 This morning we visited the Royal Pal- 
 ace and saw some of the apartments, but 
 there was nothing remarkable in them or 
 about them; in fact, all we saw was quite 
 commonplace. From the palace we went to 
 Riddarholms Church, called the Westmin- 
 ster Abbey of Sweden. It was formerly the 
 Grayfriar's or Franciscan abbey church, and 
 was founded, it is said, in about 1280 by 
 King Magnus Birgersson, who was called, 
 "Ladulas" or "Barnlock," on account of the 
 general security that prevailed during his 
 reign. We know for certain that in his will 
 this monarch ordered that his body should 
 be buried in the abbey church of the Minor- 
 ites or Grayfriars, and, furthermore, that he 
 left a sum of money for the purpose. In 
 accordance with his will, Magnus was buried 
 in the choir of the church; but it is said 
 there is no body beneath the canotaph to 
 his memory, which is of much later date, 
 having been erected towards the close of 
 the sixteenth century by King John III. 
 Later King Karl VIII., Knutsson, who died 
 in 1470, was buried in Riddarholms Church 
 
122 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 and for many centuries afterwards it was 
 used as a burial place. However, it was not 
 until after the abbey church had been turned 
 into a Protestant place of worship and Gus- 
 tavus Adolphus was buried in a special 
 chapel, that he himself had ordered erected 
 here, that the church became a fashionable 
 place of burial. From that date down to 
 the present, nearly all the members of the 
 Royal Houses that have ruled in Sweden 
 have found a final resting place in Riddar- 
 holms Church. One sovereign, however, 
 Queen Christina, daughter of Gustavus 
 Adolphus, is buried in St. Peter's at Rome. 
 Most of the sepulchral chapels clustering 
 around the church were added during the 
 seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and 
 of them only the following deserve notice. 
 The "Carolinian Chapel," the last resting 
 place of Charles X., Charles XL, and 
 Charles XII. The "Gustavian Chapel," 
 where, in a stately sarcophagus, repose the 
 remains of Gustavus Adolphus the Great. 
 Finally, the Bernadotte Chapel, with the 
 porphyry sarcophagus of Karl XIV., John, 
 and the plain green marble coffin of the late 
 King Oscar II., on which lay a large wreath 
 of flowers that had recently been placed 
 there by the King of Italy. In the vaults 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 123 
 
 beneath these chapels are buried the numer- 
 ous members of each family. Returning to 
 the hotel, we packed our luggage and just 
 about dusk took a train to Nynashamn and 
 from there the steamer to Wisby on the 
 Island of Gotland. 
 
 Saturday, August 30. 
 
 Arrived at Wisby early this morning, se- 
 cured rooms at the Stads Hotel, and after 
 breakfast went forth to see the town. The 
 Island of Gotland, the largest island in the 
 Baltic Sea, is ninety miles long and about a 
 fourth as broad. It consists of a single 
 plateau of limestone, rising from seventy to 
 a hundred feet and ending abruptly on the 
 seaboard in cliffs, here called *'klint." The 
 history of Gotland and particularly of 
 Wisby, is closely connected with the great 
 ancient trade-route between Asia, Novgorod 
 in Russia, and northwestern Europe. Before 
 the twelfth century the trade of the Baltic 
 was entirely in the hands of the Goths; but 
 the growing importance of the traffic at- 
 tracted the Germans, who soon became 
 numerous in the town, and in 1280 Wisby 
 and Lubeck formed an alliance for protec- 
 tion against pirates. The wealth of the 
 town, in its palmy days, was proverbial, but 
 
 ^^^Rr^ 
 
124 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 it was soon eclipsed by Lubeck, which place, 
 as far back as 1293, got the Hanseatic 
 League to decree that appeals from the fac- 
 tory at Novgorod should no longer be heard 
 at Wisby but at Lubeck. Wisby thus lost 
 its hold on the Baltic trade and in 1361 
 was captured by Valdemar IIL, of Denmark, 
 after a bloody victory over the peasants, of 
 whom eighteen hundred fell while defending 
 the gates of the town, and the burghers had 
 to pay a heavy tribute. Wisby lies at the 
 base and on the slopes of the klint. It now 
 covers only about half the area it occupied 
 in the days of its prosperity, when it had 
 twenty thousand inhabitants and sixteen 
 churches. The town walls, built at the close 
 of the thirteenth century of limestone from 
 the heights around, are most imposing. On 
 the land side the walls are twenty-four hun- 
 dred and twenty yards long, and on the side 
 towards the sea, about nineteen hundred and 
 eighty yards in extent. Above the walls, at 
 equal distances, rise high towers, with em- 
 brasures, while between them are series of 
 bartizans, that stand on the wall itself, sup- 
 ported by corbels on the outer side. Of the 
 original forty-eight high towers thirty-eight 
 remain, but the bartizans have mostly disap- 
 peared. Outside the walls the old moat is 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 125 
 
 Still traceable and on the north side of the 
 town it seems to have been tripled. On the 
 land sides there are still four old gates stand- 
 ing. Under the roof that once covered the 
 walls ran a wooden passage for the senti- 
 nels, the holes for the beams of which are 
 still visible. The towers are roofless, hol- 
 low and empty, and of the gates, without 
 their doors, there is nothing left but the 
 naked, gray stone skeleton. Most of the 
 houses of the town are small, low cottages 
 of modern construction, but among them are 
 still a few ancient, high-gabled buildings 
 and the ruins of a number of old churches, 
 roofless, with empty windows and grass- 
 grown floors. We first came to St. Cath- 
 arines, once the church of the Franciscans, 
 an elegant Gothic edifice, begun in 1230, of 
 which the walls with many beautiful win- 
 dows, twelve octagonal pillars, and some ribs 
 of the vaulting still exist. Near by are the 
 ruins of the "sister-churches" of St. Drotton 
 and St. Lars, probably of even earlier date, 
 for they have massive towers that suggest 
 they may once have been used for defensive 
 purposes. Higher up is the Cathedral of 
 St. Mary, the only church still used for re- 
 ligious services. This church is floored with 
 tomb stones that are covered with coats of 
 
126 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 arms and ancient inscriptions. From the 
 church yard the Norra Kyrko-Gata leads to 
 the North Gate of the town. About half 
 way along this street Is the curious Helge- 
 ands-Kyrka or Church of the Holy Ghost, 
 built In the Romanesque style, with two stor- 
 ies and one choir In common. In the lower 
 church are four massive square piers, that 
 support the floor of the upper church, which 
 has round pillars of the late Romanesque 
 style to support Its roof. We ascended to 
 the top of the walls and had a fine view of 
 the town and the sea. From there we got 
 a glimpse of St. Nicholas' Church in a side 
 street near by and decided to visit it. St. 
 Nicholas' is undoubtedly the finest of the 
 ruined churches of Wisby. It dates from 
 the early thirteenth century, formerly be- 
 longed to a Dominican monastery, and was 
 destroyed In 1525 by the Danes, then at war 
 with Lubeck. In the west fagade, which 
 lacks a portal, are two rose-windows. "Each 
 window," says tradition, "once had a bril- 
 liant carbuncle in the center, but these gems 
 were carried away by King Valdemar, after 
 he sacked the town." The main entrance is 
 in the north aisle. The nave and aisles are 
 divided by ten massive, square pillars; there 
 are no transepts, and most of the windows 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 127 
 
 are round-arched. While we were there, 
 they were making extensive excavations in 
 the church, but the only things the explorers 
 had found were a great many bones that 
 were piled in several heaps. Strange to say, 
 most of them seemed to be those of beasts, 
 and among them we noticed a number of 
 horses' skulls, but after viewing the various 
 piles, we did not find any that positively 
 could be identified as having once been hu- 
 man. From here we returned to the Norra 
 Kyrko-Gata and passed out through the 
 walls by the North Gate, where the road 
 makes quite a dip to get under the arch. 
 On past the ruined church of St. Goran we 
 walked up to the Galgeberg, or Gallows-hill, 
 with its three stone pillars, twenty feet high, 
 and from this ancient place of execution we 
 had a magnificent view of the town and its 
 walls. Descending the hill by a path that 
 passed the Robber's Cave, we followed the 
 seashore back to the town. In the after- 
 noon we looked up some of the old dwell- 
 ings of the place, among them the Apotek, 
 an old Gothic building of many stories, and 
 the Burmeisterska Hus, built by a Lubeck 
 merchant of that name in 1661 ; but most of 
 the old dwellings of Wisby have disap- 
 peared. 
 
128 
 
 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Sunday, August 31. 
 This morning we took the boat for Kal- 
 mar. As we sailed out of the harbor, Wisby 
 looked very beautiful with its towers and 
 houses shimmering in the morning sunlight. 
 To add to the charm of the scene on the 
 klint behind the town are several picturesque 
 old windmills and to the north, the great 
 stone gallows, standing like giant sentinels. 
 Gradually the town grew smaller and smaller 
 until it sank into the sea and in a couple of 
 hours after leaving, the island of Gotland 
 was a faint blue line on the eastern horizon. 
 Then, when it had hardly faded, we sighted 
 the northern point of the Island of Oland, or 
 perhaps it would be more accurate to say 
 the trees and lighthouse on the northern end 
 of that island, for the land lies so low that 
 it hardly shows above the water, even when 
 quite near. Rounding the point we kept 
 down along the west shore of Oland, pass- 
 ing between it and the bold, rocky islet of 
 Jungfra, which rises like a mountain from 
 the deep, but is so small that it is marked 
 by only a dot and a name on a good-sized 
 map. Just before passing this island the 
 boys became greatly excited over what they 
 thought were some ship-wrecked men swim- 
 ming for safety; however, as we drew near, 
 
^ 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 129 
 
 their anxiety was relieved to find that what 
 they had taken for men were only seals 
 sporting about for their own amusement. 
 Soon we came opposite Borgholm, near 
 which, on a low hill, are the ruins of the fine 
 old castle of the same name. It was begun 
 in 1572 by King John III., on the site of 
 an old fortress, and in 1651-1654, was oc- 
 cupied by Charles Gustavus of Pfalz-Zwei- 
 brucken, when heir-apparent to the throne 
 of Sweden, for whom it was enlarged by 
 Nic. Tessen, but it was finally destroyed by 
 fire in 1806. A little to the east of the ru- 
 ins is a royal domain and near by, on the 
 seashore, is a villa that belongs to the Queen 
 Dowager of Sweden. The shores of the 
 island and the mainland were now rapidly 
 approaching each other and soon Kalmar 
 came in sight. The view of the city from 
 the sea is quite fine, although somewhat 
 marred by large factory buildings on the 
 water front. Our steamer landed at a stone 
 quay and, taking a carriage, we went to the 
 Stads-Hotel. 
 
 Monday, September i. 
 As it stands on its green terrace, with its 
 many towers reflected in the water by which 
 it is almost surrounded, Kalmer Castle is 
 
130 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 one of the most picturesque buildings in the 
 world. Formerly the site was an island, but 
 it is now connected with the mainland by a 
 narrow causeway. There are a number of 
 halls and rooms that are shown to visitors, 
 but the interior does not fulfill the expecta- 
 tions raised by the outside appearance. 
 Some of the royal chambers have fine inlaid 
 floors and panelling in the ceilings and walls, 
 and in one room there are large, colored re- 
 liefs of hunting scenes of the time of Eric 
 XIV. In fact our guide tried to make us be- 
 lieve they were the handiwork of that king 
 himself. I tried to get a guide book to Kal- 
 mar, but the only one procurable was in 
 Swedish, so you will have to look up further 
 facts regarding this Schloss by yourself. In 
 the afternoon we took the train for the 
 south. Passing through Vexio and Lund, 
 we came to Malmo, where we took the ferry- 
 boat across the Sund to Copenhagen, arriv- 
 ing there a little before midnight. 
 
 Tuesday, September 2. 
 
 We are stopping at the Palads Hotel and 
 the windows of our rooms overlook 'the 
 Raadhus Plads, on which faces the town 
 hall, a fine, modern building, of which the 
 citizens are justly proud. On the opposite 
 
i4 
 
 U 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 131 
 
 Side of the square from the hotel is the 
 Tivoli, world famous as a popular place of 
 recreation. This afternoon we went to the 
 Ny-Carlsberg Glyptothek, which contains a 
 splendid collection of ancient and modern 
 sculptures, formed chiefly since 1882, under 
 the guidance of experts, by Dr. Carl Jacob- 
 sen, the wealthy brewer of Ny-Carlsberg, 
 who presented the collection to the state 
 along with a large sum for its maintenance. 
 In this gallery are many beautiful works by 
 French, Danish, Norwegian, and Italian 
 sculptors, but probably the one that a visitor 
 will remember best after coming away will 
 be a little wooden statuette of St. Francis of 
 Asslsl, by a Spanish artist, P. Mena y Me- 
 drano. There is also quite a gallery of pic- 
 tures on the second floor, some by old Dutch 
 masters, but most of them by artists of the 
 modern French school. 
 
 Wednesday, September 3. 
 The Thorvaldsen Museum contains a very 
 complete collection of works of the great 
 Danish sculptor, Bertel Thorvaldsen, born 
 in Copenhagen, 1770, died 1844. He went 
 to Rome in 1797 and worked there until 
 1838. The building. In which the collection 
 is housed, Is a gloomy looking pile In an 
 
132 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 antique style that is probably intended to be 
 classical but certainly is funereal. Besides 
 a collection of two hundred statues, one hun- 
 dred and thirty busts, and three hundred and 
 thirty reliefs, it contains the tomb of the 
 artist and many of his personal belongings. 
 Then, as if to add solemnity and dignity, it 
 stands close to the Slot Christiansborg on 
 the Palace-island. Of the statues of gods 
 and goddesses from Greek mythology, I 
 shall refrain from criticism, for most of 
 them are casts or copies by pupils. The 
 numerous portrait busts are very interesting 
 and anyone can see that they are well exe- 
 cuted. Some of the small reliefs are also 
 pleasing. Of the collection of paintings by 
 fellow artists the less said the better, for 
 probably the master was guided in the selec- 
 tion more by feelings of friendship and char- 
 ity than by his artistic judgment. 
 
 Thursday, September 4. 
 
 Walked over to the Slotsholm or Palace- 
 island jto see the Christiansborg Palace, orig- 
 inally built by Christian VI., in I733-I745> 
 but burned down in 1794 and again in 1884. 
 Since 1907 it has been undergoing restora- 
 tion after plans by Thorv Jorgensen. We 
 walked around to the chief fagade, which 
 
J 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 133 
 
 fronts east, but found it hidden behind scaf- 
 folding. Opposite this front is the Ex- 
 change, a picturesque building in the Dutch 
 Renaissance style, with numerous gables and 
 a tower one hundred and sixty-seven feet 
 high, the upper part of which is formed by 
 four dragons with entwined tails that cork- 
 screw up until they end in a flame-like crest. 
 Continuing our walk we passed the Royal 
 Library and Arsenal, finally coming around 
 to the rear entrance to the court of the pal- 
 ace, where we turned in and found ourselves 
 near the stables. There were some fairly 
 good-looking horses that were being led 
 about the court by grooms in scarlet liveries, 
 but there was nothing else worthy of notice. 
 Speaking of horses reminds me, they are 
 not numerous here, but It Is remarkable how 
 many people In this town, men, women and 
 children, still use bicycles. There is a con- 
 stant stream of people mounted on them 
 passing our hotel; but automobiles are rare. 
 In the afternoon we went to call on the 
 American Minister, Mr. Egan, but found 
 that he and his wife were In London. 
 
 Friday, Septertiber 5. 
 
 Took the train to Helsingor, which is 
 about twenty-five miles down the Oresund 
 
134 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 from Copenhagen, and, as the day was fine, 
 we enjoyed the trip immensely. Soon after 
 leaving the city our train passed through a 
 beautiful park, in which there is a Royal 
 Chateau, and then we came in sight of the 
 Sound, along the shore of which are numer- 
 ous villas. After passing Klampenborg, the 
 railway skirts the Dyrehave, a fine beech 
 forest stocked with deer, none of which were 
 in sight. Then we passed more villas and 
 chateaux along the sea coast, among them 
 one that belonged to the King of Greece. 
 Suddenly the train plunged into the station 
 at Helsingor and we had to hustle out. On 
 emerging from the station, the first thing 
 to attract our attention was the Kronborg 
 with its many towers, a picturesque, fortified 
 castle, that dominates the entrance to the 
 Sound. It was erected by Frederic II. in 
 1 577-1 5 85, on the site of the old castle of 
 Krogen. As Kronborg was the chief reason 
 for our coming to Helsingor and a broad 
 road led from the station around the harbor 
 in that direction, we at once headed that 
 way. Just before reaching the castle we met 
 a company of Danish soldiers and stopped 
 to watch them. As they passed, at a word 
 from the officer in command, they commenced 
 goose-stepping, and the officer seemed quite 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 135 
 
 proud of the accomplishment, but to us un- 
 tutored Americans it looked ridiculous. 
 However, it is quite the proper thing in 
 Germany and may have some virtues as a 
 setting-up drill. I always stop to observe 
 the soldiers in foreign parts, for there is no 
 telling how soon they may be holding a 
 prominent place in our affairs. Entering the 
 castle through an arched gateway, we hunted 
 up a guide and were shown through the 
 rooms that formerly were used by the royal 
 family. There was nothing remarkable in 
 them except some fine old fire-places. Hang- 
 ing on the walls of the various rooms were a 
 number of paintings and, although the guide 
 mumbled the names of several great artists, 
 they impressed me as being a lot of poor 
 copies. In the chapel there was some elab- 
 orate old wood carving, but even that did 
 not look as though it was first-class work. 
 We were then led across the court to a small 
 door and told we could enter and ascend to 
 the roof of the large, square tower, but our 
 guide was too lazy to follow us. From the 
 flat roof of the tower we had a fine view of 
 the Sound and the Swedish coast opposite. 
 After enjoying the view for a while, we de- 
 scended and as^ain sought our guide, for we 
 wished to go down Into the casements, where. 
 
136 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 according to tradition, Holger Danske slum- 
 bers. In consideration of a second fee, our 
 guide consented, so we went down into the 
 subterranean depths. Holger Danske is sup- 
 posed to be seated by a stone table around 
 the base of which his beard has grown. 
 When Denmark needs his aid to free her 
 from the conqueror, he will come to life, 
 but that will not take place, according to 
 the legend, until his beard has thrice en- 
 circled the table, and, according to the best 
 authority, it has so far only grown two and 
 a half times around the stone pedestal. It 
 was a gloomy place to which we descended 
 and when we saw a huge, white plaster 
 statue of the champion, faintly gleaming 
 ahead in the flickering light of the candle 
 carried by our guide, we almost had the 
 creeps. Speaking of ghosts reminds me, 
 they would not allow us to visit the Flag 
 Battery, which is on the "Platform before 
 the Castle of Elsinore," where Shakespeare 
 makes the ghost in Hamlet walk; they were 
 probably afraid of German spies. "Alas, 
 poor ghost." As there was nothing more 
 to see, we went to the hotel for lunch. Af- 
 ter our meal, not caring to visit Hamlet's 
 grave ( ?), we walked along the main street 
 of the town until we came to a little park, 
 
u 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 137 
 
 where we sat in the shade of some fine old 
 trees and watched the little "Hamlets" and 
 ^'Ophelias'* at their play. As the day was 
 rather hot, it was with regret that we left 
 our shady retreat and returned to the sta- 
 tion to take the express train back to Copen- 
 hagen. Helsingor, although small, seems to 
 be quite a busy place. The harbor is good 
 and there is a ferry over to Sweden. It was 
 here, where the Sound is but little more than 
 two miles wide, that Denmark formerly col- 
 lected a tax on all ships bound to or from 
 the Baltic. 
 
 Saturday, September 6. 
 
 The State Art Museum, which we visited 
 this morning, contains a large collection of 
 pictures by Danish and foreign artists. Sad 
 to relate, the paintings by Danish artists, 
 while quite as numerous, do not equal in 
 quality the pictures by Swedish artists, shown 
 in the Stockholm gallery. The modern 
 French painters, usually so much in evidence, 
 are conspicuous by their absence but, to make 
 amends, the Dutch school is well repre- 
 sented. One of the finest pictures in the 
 collection is Rembrandt's "Christ at Em- 
 maus," a strikingly fine religious work. Then 
 there is a portrait of Matthew Irselius, Ab- 
 
138 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 bot of St. Michael's at Antwerp, by Rubens 
 that is wonderful, but taken as a whole the 
 collection is rather disappointing. In the 
 afternoon we visited the National Museum 
 in the Prindsens-Palais. The "Prehistoric 
 Collection" is probably the finest of the kind 
 in Europe. In Room I. are shown the earli- 
 est rude tools and weapons of bone and flint 
 from the shell mounds or "refuse heaps" of 
 the first settlers of Denmark, which are 
 found along the seashore and probably date 
 back as much as three thousand years before 
 Christ. In these shell mounds skeletons of 
 human beings, adults, and children, have been 
 found, but the bones of the dog are the only 
 remains of domestic animals discovered. 
 However, the bones of many wild animals 
 have been found and among them the skele- 
 ton of an auroch, here shown, in two of the 
 ribs of which are embedded flint arrow- 
 heads. From these indications we may as- 
 sume that the first inhabitants were hunt- 
 ers and fishermen who dwelt along the sea 
 coast. In Rooms II. and III. are imple- 
 ments of the later Stone Age. These tools 
 are found in graves scattered through the 
 interior of the country and are of better 
 workmanship than the crude weapons found 
 in the shell heaps. Many are finely executed 
 
Danish Farm 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 139 
 
 and of elegant shape. Among other things 
 shown Is a sickle for cutting grain, with the 
 flint blade still firmly set in the well-pre- 
 served wooden handle. This would lead us 
 to believe that the men of that age had 
 turned towards agriculture, and in confirma- 
 tion there is shown a number of potsherds of 
 that period with impressions, made while 
 the clay was yet soft, of grain, wheat, bar- 
 ley, and millet, that still show on the hard, 
 baked outer surfaces. With the Bronze Age 
 the people became more civilized, and in 
 Room IV. is shown a male and female figure, 
 wearing clothing, weapons and ornaments 
 that are copies of actual originals of this 
 period, that were found in the rude coffins 
 that they made by hollowing out the trunks 
 of oak trees. Probably the most remarkable 
 objects found, that belong to the Bronze 
 Age, are the large brass trumpets called 
 "lures," which are usually found in peat- 
 bogs, generally in pairs, and which can often 
 even now be used as musical instruments. 
 When found in pairs, they are tuned to the 
 same note, and were probably used together. 
 In Rooms V. and VI. are objects of the Iron 
 Age, which in Denmark began about five 
 hundred years before Christ. Along with 
 weapons and tools of this age, made of Iron, 
 
140 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 are shown eating and drinking utensils of 
 earthenware and glass, coins and jewelry of 
 Roman make, and various objects which show 
 that commerce and trade had gained a foot- 
 hold among the people, who at that time in- 
 habited Denmark. In still other rooms are 
 shown the arts and crafts of the Middle 
 Ages and even later times, but these objects, 
 the products of civilized men, did not inter- 
 est us so much. 
 
 Sunday, September, 7. 
 
 We went to Mass at the Jesuit Church. 
 Then I had to make a trip down to Cook's 
 to get some tickets that the manager had 
 promised to have ready for me by noon to- 
 day. After lunch the boys and I went to the 
 arsenal to see the collection of old armor. 
 They have a fine collection of artillery and 
 some small arms, especially wheelocks and 
 old swords, but of body armor there is not 
 much that is really worth looking at. How- 
 ever, there was one fine suit of Maximillian 
 fluted armor and a very handsome one of 
 plate, decorated in a design of thistles, which 
 may have been of Scottish or English ori- 
 gin. 
 
 Monday, September 8. 
 It is a beautiful day. We spent the morn- 
 
A Herring Boat 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 141 
 
 ing in farewell visits to places of interest, 
 and after lunch took the train for Kiel. 
 That is, the train went as far as Korsor, a 
 little town on the south end of the Island of 
 Zealand, and from there we took a boat 
 for the rest of the way. The accommoda- 
 tions for handling baggage at the Central 
 Station in Copenhagen do not seem to be 
 first class. Our trunks were brought to the 
 main entrance of the station and dumped 
 on the platform. Then they had to be car- 
 ried through the waiting room by porters 
 to the luggage counter, where they were 
 weighed and checked. After leaving the 
 city, the country through which we passed 
 was flat but seemed to be good farming land 
 and the estates were of fair size, with well- 
 constructed buildings, most of them crowded 
 around a court ; dwelling, barns, stables, a 
 windmill, and some sheds, handy but not very 
 sanitary. The only town of any importance 
 through which we passed was Roskilde, 
 where there is a large cathedral in which the 
 Danish kings are buried. Our steamer 
 passed along the coast of a low-lying island, 
 crossed the Belt and finally, after dark, en- 
 tered the busy harbor of Kiel. We landed 
 quite near the Hansa Hotel and, after hand- 
 ing over our luggage to the porter, walked 
 
142 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 across and secured rooms. As it was late, 
 we had only time to partake of some light 
 refreshments before going to bed. 
 
 Tuesday, September 9. 
 The first thing I did this morning was to 
 hunt up my banker. That gentleman, after 
 supplying me with the required German 
 money, cross-questioned me in the most ap- 
 proved Prussian manner and very politely 
 told me what I should see in Kiel. Instead 
 of following his advice, we went to the 
 Thaulow Museum and saw some wonderful 
 old Schleswig-Holstein wood-carving. In 
 the afternoon Maud, Marian, Raphael and 
 I walked up to the palace, formerly the resi- 
 dence of the Dukes of Holstein-Gottorp, and 
 now occupied by Prince Henry of Prussia. 
 Passing through the Schloss-Garten, we took 
 a tram-car for a ride out to a place called 
 Bellevue, where we hoped to get a look at 
 the German War Fleet, but not a battle ship 
 was in sight, so we walked back along the 
 harbor-side road. We saw a number of 
 beautiful villas and the Imperial Yacht Club 
 House. Many of the places displayed "For 
 Sale" cards; there was not much going on 
 in the harbor and the great ship building 
 works at Krupp's Germania Wharf seemed 
 
^ 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 143 
 
 to be idle. In fact the whole place looked 
 like an American boomed town shortly after 
 the boom had collapsed. 
 
 Wednesday, September lO. 
 
 After breakfast we took a train for Lu- 
 beck, the smallest of the three independent 
 Hanseatic towns of the German Empire. 
 Our trip, which was quite brief, was through 
 Holstein, and a very fine country it appears 
 to be. The land is flat with a few low hills 
 and many broad lakes that today were cov- 
 ered with numerous water fowls. In the 
 fields were herds of the fine black and white 
 cattle for which the country is famous. 
 Many of the large, brick farm houses are 
 thatched with straw, which gives them a 
 very picturesque appearance, but I regret to 
 have to say that the barn, stable and dwell- 
 ing seemed in most cases to be under one 
 roof. We arrived at Lubeck quite a bit be- 
 fore noon, so, after securng rooms at the 
 Stadt-Hamburg Hotel, we went to see the 
 Cathedral. It is a fine, brick Gothic church 
 and contains a famous painting, Memllng's 
 double Triptych, which was specially or- 
 dered from the artist In 1498 for an altar- 
 piece In this church and has remained here 
 ever since. After showing us various works 
 
144 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 of art scattered about the church, the cus- 
 todian led us into a side chapel and, pulling 
 aside a curtain, we saw the exterior shutters 
 of the triptych, which represents, in grisaill 
 work, the Annunciation. Then he opened 
 these shutters and on the inner doors were 
 painted life size figures of Saints Blasius, 
 John the Baptist, Jerome, and iEgidius, the 
 last, patron-saint of the donor. Canon 
 Adolf Greverade. These saints, with their 
 wonderful coloring, are masterpieces. We 
 waited, breathless, while these doors were 
 opened to show us the inner picture. It repre- 
 sents scenes from the Passion with a Cruci- 
 fixion in the center. A kneeling figure in the 
 left-hand corner is pointed out as a portrait 
 of the donor. While these scenes are well 
 painted, their number and small size has the 
 effect of an anti-climax. 
 
 After dinner, for here the principal meal 
 is at noon, we went to visit the church of St. 
 Mary's, which owes its origin in 1251 to the 
 ambition of the citizens to have their princi- 
 pal parish church larger than the Cathedral 
 of the bishop. The plan is as near like a 
 French Gothic cathedral as it is possible 
 to build in brick, even to brick fluted 
 columns and brick traceries in the windows. 
 Of course, the builders did not adhere strictly 
 
ft, 
 
 ffi 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 145 
 
 to common rectangular forms, and it is won- 
 derful to see what effects they obtained by 
 the skilful use of a few varieties of specially 
 molded bricks. After we had rather hastily 
 examined the church, we walked past the 
 Schiffer-Gesellschaft, a handsome, old guild 
 hall of the "Ancient Mariners" of Lubeck, 
 and paused for a while to admire the an- 
 tique, many gabled, and turreted fagade of 
 the Hospital zum Heiligen Geist, an admir- 
 ably organized alms-house, dating from 
 1286. From this ancient institution we went 
 out to the Burg-Tor, the north gate in the 
 old town wall, a lofty, brick structure of 
 1444. It was near this gate that the Battle 
 of Lubeck took place on November 6, 1 806, 
 between Bliicher, with the wreck of the Prus- 
 sian army after the battle of Jena, and the 
 pursuing French under Bernadotte, Soult, 
 and Murat. 
 
 Thursday, September ii. 
 Of course, as Lubeck is an independent 
 town, the Rathaus has always held an im- 
 portant place in its history. We spent this 
 morning there and found the old house very 
 interesting. The building occupies the north 
 east corner of the Market Place, is built of 
 brick in the Gothic style, with huge gables 
 
146 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 and quaint spires, and, in part, dates from 
 the thirteenth century. We entered by the 
 main portal, which is not on the side towards 
 the market but on the busy street that skirts 
 the square on the east. First we visited the 
 "Senate Room", rebuilt in the rococo style 
 in 1754-60 and decorated with allegorical 
 paintings by Torelli of Bologna. The door 
 to this room dates from 1573 and has an in- 
 scription on it in "Low Dutch" that we no- 
 ticed the guide had to translate for the Ger- 
 man sight seers that happened to be along 
 with our party. The inscription was in Ro- 
 man text and many of the words looked 
 quite English, but along with them were 
 enough that were so strange to us as to 
 make it all unintelligible. After leaving this 
 room, we ascended a noble stairway, that 
 had the walls of its landing adorned with a 
 modern mural painting by Koch, represent- 
 ing "Henry the Lion receiving the homage 
 of Lubeck." Whether the painting was in- 
 tended to convey a lesson of loyalty to the 
 present Empire, or to remind the citizens 
 that soon after the event depicted they 
 gained their liberty and had only recently 
 lost it under another Empire, was not evi- 
 dent, and for good and sufficient reasons I 
 did not seek enlightenment. At the head of 
 
LuBECK Cathedral 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 147 
 
 the stairs is the Burgerschafts-Saal, a very 
 modern room also adorned with paintings 
 by Koch. From there we went to the 
 Kriegsstube, the ancient "War Chamber," 
 with its beautiful carved and inlaid panels 
 and a fine old sand stone mantle with ala- 
 baster reliefs. Underneath the old building 
 IS the Ratswelnkellerj with its remarkable 
 Gothic and late Romanesque vaultings and 
 columns. In one of the rooms is a *' Chimney 
 Piece" which bears an inscription of 1575 in 
 "Low Dutch" which, to say the least, is not 
 very gallant. It may be translated, "Many 
 a man sings loudly when they bring him his 
 bride; if he knew what they brought him, 
 he might well weep." A very low (Dutch) 
 remark about women. A little before noon 
 we took the train for Hamburg, where we 
 arrived in time to have lunch at the Ham- 
 burger Hof. Our hotel fronts on the busy 
 Jungfernstleg and across the way is the 
 Binnen-Alster, a pretty lagoon of about forty 
 acres, bounded on three sides by quays, well 
 planted with trees and flanked with palatial 
 hotels, business houses, and fine, private 
 dwellings; while on the north side there is 
 a causeway laid out as a promenade that 
 separates this little sheet of water from a 
 
148 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 larger lake called the Aussen-Alster. This 
 we noticed while taking our first walk about 
 the city this afternoon. 
 
 Friday, September 12. 
 This morning we went for a trip about 
 the harbor. Of course the boat ride started 
 on the River Elbe, but soon we turned into a 
 side channel and, after passing through a 
 series of flood gates or locks, entered a large 
 basin that probably belonged to the Ham- 
 burg-American Steamship Co. First, we 
 saw the big sister-ship to the "Imperator" 
 that is still building. I think they intend to 
 call it the "Fatherland." As it has no bal- 
 last aboard, it stood very high above the 
 water; in fact, all the propeller shafts were 
 above the surface. In another part of the 
 basin we passed the "President Grant" and 
 the "Pratoria," two of the slower boats be- 
 longing to the company. Then our boat 
 went alongside another large steamer whose 
 name I did not learn and those who wished 
 to see the interior were allowed to go 
 aboard. As there was nothing novel for us 
 about the interior of a ship, we remained ' 
 where we were and returned with the boat 
 to the landing. Then, as we still had plenty 
 of time before lunch, we went to the Art 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 149 
 
 Museum or as it is called here, the "Kuns- 
 thalle," which contains over a thousand 
 paintings, among them a number by British 
 artists, but what interested me most were 
 three portraits by F. Lembach, of Count 
 Moltke, Prince Bismarck, and Emperor 
 William I. ; the triumvirate that made Prus- 
 sia the ruling force in the **German Em- 
 pire." Well, I shall make no remarks about 
 them, for I might hurt someone's feelings, 
 probably my own, if there was a German 
 with a beer mug about. After lunch we went 
 out to Carl Hagenback's Zoological Park, 
 to see the animals, which are mostly kept in 
 large enclosures, fitted up as nearly as pos- 
 sible like their native habitat. Thus the goat 
 family have a craggy hill to climb over, in- 
 side their fence; the lions are enclosed in a 
 rocky den with fallen tree trunks to lie upon, 
 and the monkeys have a rocky ledge to sit 
 on and trees to climb, but all the dangerous 
 animals are so guarded by sunken pits that 
 it is impossible for them to escape. The 
 most interesting animal was a trained wal- 
 rus, that really had a head almost as round 
 and expressive as that of his keeper. This 
 animal's greatest accomplishment was blow- 
 ing a horn, and when he got the mouthpiece 
 between his lips, with his bristly mustache 
 
150 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 and pale, blue eyes, he looked very much 
 like the stout leader of a Little German 
 Band. 
 
 Saturday, September 13. 
 
 Went to see the Bismarck Monument, a 
 big, coarse affair, that very fittingly personi- 
 fies "Kultur" and encumbers the place of 
 honor in a pretty, little park over in the 
 western part of the city. Got back just in 
 time to catch the train for Hanover. Right 
 here our journey should have ended by our 
 taking a steamer home, for we have quit the 
 Northland, but as we did not and kept on, I 
 shall continue to tell briefly about the rest of 
 our trip. It did not take long to reach Han- 
 over and we secured pleasant rooms at the 
 Bristol Hotel, which is just across the square 
 in front of the station. After lunch we went 
 out for a walk. There are many quaint old 
 houses in the town. We visted the theatre, 
 the Museum, the Royal Palace, the Rathaus, 
 old and new, and several interesting churches. 
 The number of soldiers in the town is no- 
 ticeable. I was told there is a garrison of 
 16,000 here. This kingdom was annexed by 
 Prussia in 1866, but it looks as though the 
 subjection was not yet complete. 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 151 
 
 Sunday, September 14. 
 Went to Mass at an ancient church that is 
 over on the older part of the town. There 
 is a fine, large Catholic Church up in the 
 newer quarters, where Dr. Windthorst, long 
 leader of the "Centrum'' party in the Ger- 
 man Reichstag, is buried. On the way back 
 from church we passed the house in which 
 Leibnitz lived. He seems to be the popular 
 hero of the place. In the afternoon we went 
 to the park in which the New Rathaus is 
 located. It is quite a pretty piece of level 
 ground, with several ornamental ponds that 
 add to its attractiveness. 
 
 Monday, September 15. 
 
 Took a drive about the city, saw most of 
 the fine residences, and went through a very 
 neat, well conducted ''cracker bakery", where 
 a lot of pretty, young girls were busy putting 
 the biscuits into cartons. Then we went 
 out to Herrenhausen, past the Welfenschloss 
 or Palace of the Guelphs, a handsome build- 
 ing, that, now the Guelphs are out and the 
 Hohenzollerns are in, is used for a Poly- 
 technic School. Schloss Herrenhausen is at 
 the end of a beautiful avenue of limes, one 
 and a quarter miles long and one hundred 
 and twenty yards wide, that was laid out in 
 
152 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 1726. The Schloss was built in 1698 and 
 was the favorite residence of George I., and 
 George IL, of England and Hanover. Not 
 being allowed to enter, we walked through 
 the gardens, which are quite extensive. They 
 are laid out in the French style and have 
 an open air garden theatre as one of 
 their attractions. We were allowed to 
 visit the coach house and saw some hand- 
 some carriages and harness, but all the fam- 
 ous Brunswick horses are gone. Then we 
 went across to the big palm houses where 
 we saw cocoa-nut palms, over thirty meters 
 high. After lunch, we took the train to 
 Hildesheim. When we had secured rooms j 
 at the hotel, we walked up the main street > 
 to the "Square of the Lilly," on which fronts 
 the Rathaus. In this square stands the 
 Rolandbrunn, erected in 1540, with high 
 basin-walls on the six faces of which are 
 sculptured panels of heroes. From the cen- 
 ter of the basin rises an ornamented pillar, 
 that is surmounted by a small figure of Rol- 
 and, clad in armor with a spear and shield. 
 The Butcher's Guild Hall, built before 1529, 
 which faces on this square, is said to be the 
 most beautiful frame house of Germany. 
 The doorway, window frames, brackets, and 
 transverse beams are covered with carvings 
 
 i 
 
ai, 
 
 
 
 !?fK^^:/-.' 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 153 
 
 of great beauty and masterly technique, 
 while between the windows are panels with 
 figures carved in high relief, that as the 
 darkey said, '*are of the early reminiscence 
 style, sir.'* On the right hand side of the 
 square, when facing the Rathaus, are two 
 noticeable houses. The Wedekind House, 
 dating from 1598, with carvings of figures 
 representing the virtues and sciences, and 
 the Tempelhaus, a Gothic building, dating 
 from the fourteenth century, with pictur- 
 esque but useless turrets at the corners, and 
 a richly ornamented oriel window that dates 
 from 1 59 1. The Town-hall is the work of 
 several centuries, the earliest part dates 
 from 1290, while the frame-work tower at 
 the north corner was only finished in the 
 sixteenth century. The walls of the large 
 hall on the second floor are adorned with 
 frescoes representing events in the history 
 of the town. One of the frescoes depicts 
 *'The Virgin Mary Appearing to King Louis 
 the Pious, amidst a rose bush and drawing 
 the plans of the Cathedral In the snow on 
 the lawn at her feet." This picture greatly 
 excited the risabllity of some of my fellow 
 countrymen who happened to be looking at 
 It while I was there, yet the event is probably 
 quite as well authenticated as the one repre- 
 
154 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 sented in a nearby picture, "Herman the 
 Cherusker handing the captured Roman 
 silver treasures over to the priests on Gal- 
 genberg in the year B. C. 9," which my com- 
 patriots swallowed without question. After 
 a hasty glance at these pictures and the beau- 
 tiful painted ceiling, we hastened on to the 
 Cathedral, for we wanted to see the cele- 
 brated bronze doors, the wonderful Easter 
 column and the famous rose bush. The so- 
 called "Paradise Doors" were cast by 
 Bishop Bernward in 1015. They are 
 adorned with sixteen reliefs representing the 
 Fall of Man and the Redemption. Begin- 
 ning at the top of the left-hand door, the 
 subjects represented are, "The Creation of 
 Man," "God Presenting Eve to Adam," 
 "The First Sin," "Adam and Eve driven 
 from Paradise," etc., around through "The 
 Crucifixion," "The Women at the Tomb," 
 to the final "Nole me tangere," at the upper 
 right-hand corner. The Easter Column 
 probably was intended for the shaft of a 
 mammoth "Pascal Candlestick." It was 
 made in 1022 by Bishop Bernward, who 
 undoubtedly took the idea from Trajan's 
 Column at Rome. The reliefs, which begin 
 at the base of the column, ascend in a spiral 
 and represent scenes from the life of Christ. 
 

 HiLDESHEIM 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 155 
 
 Of course I do not pretend to be a judge, 
 but it is my humble opinion that the pictures 
 on the column are far better in design than 
 the panels of the doors. In a side chapel 
 there is a brazen baptismal font of the thir- 
 teenth century that is well worth examining, 
 and the immense chandelier presented to 
 the church by Bishop Hezilo (d. 1079) 
 is also worthy of notice. It is in the form 
 of a circular wall, with twelve towers and 
 twelve portals, and has an inscription ex- 
 plaining that it is intended to represent the 
 Heavenly Jerusalem. We gazed at it, 
 while a stout priest delivered a lecture in 
 High Dutch, not a word of which could we 
 understand, and when he paused for breath, 
 by means of some English, Latin and "Low 
 Dutch," we managed to make him under- 
 stand that we would like to see the "Alt 
 rose arbor." He unlocked a door and let 
 us into the famous cloister, with its double 
 arcade, built in 1070, and from there we got 
 our first glimpse of the "Thousand-year 
 Rosetree." The old rose bush, which, even 
 this late in the season, still had a few flow- 
 ers on it, twines around the asp of the choir. 
 Only the roots, which are hidden under the 
 High- Altar of the crypt, are old; the most 
 aged shoot now alive dates from 1789. The 
 
156 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Hildesheim historian, George Elbers, first 
 mentions the rose-tree in about the year 
 1640, and at that time estimates its age at 
 "several centuries," so even if it is not a 
 thousand years old, it has been there for a 
 long time. 
 
 Tuesday, September 16. 
 The morning being pleasant, we walked 
 up to St. Mary Magdalen's Church, founded 
 by Bishop Konrad II., in 1234. It is off to 
 one side, in a lonely corner, far from the 
 busy part of the town, but in it are preserved 
 some remarkable art treasures. The most 
 important is Bishop Bernward's Cross, 
 which dates from 994, and two candlesticks 
 which were found in his tomb. The cross 
 was made by the good bishop to hold a splin- 
 ter of the True Cross. It is exquisite in 
 workmanship and is ornamented with two 
 hundred and thirty jewels, among which are 
 several antique cameos representing myth- 
 ological subjects. On the back is engraved 
 a Crucifix and emblems of the four Evan- 
 gelists. The candlesticks were made in St. 
 Bernward's workshop of a mixture of gold, 
 silver, and iron. A medley of men, animals 
 and plants wind about a slender shaft, which 
 rests on three claws. The meaning, prob- 
 
^*=^^3«m 
 
 
 'k/ Jt^- 
 
 
 
 The 1000 Year Rose-tree 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 157 
 
 ably, is that every thing is struggling to- 
 wards the light, "symbolic of Christ the 
 light of the world." The Latin inscription 
 on one, as near as I could make out, reads, 
 "Bernward made this candelabre, first child 
 of his skill to flower, not as gold, not as 
 silver, but that thou should discern the strug- 
 gle." There are many other objects of in- 
 terest in this little church. We noticed 
 especially two bronze candlesticks of the 
 thirteenth century, a large, early Gothic Pas- 
 cal candlestick, a beautiful Gothic Chalice 
 dating from 1500, and a silver reliquary 
 containing the bones of the saint. From St. 
 Mary Magdalen's, we went to the Crypt 
 below St. Michael's Church to see the stone 
 sarcophagus of St. Bernward, and, after- 
 wards, up into the church itself to see the 
 wonderful painted ceiling. It dates from 
 the twelfth century and represents the gene- 
 alogy of Christ. In the afternoon we took 
 a train for Brunswick, and, on arriving there, 
 spent the time until dinner in walking about 
 the streets looking for old buildings. Among 
 others we saw the Altstadt-Rathaus, a fine, 
 old Gothic edifice, with a two story, open 
 arcade, on the pillars of which are statues 
 of Saxon princes. 
 
158 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Wednesday, September 17. 
 Went to see the Ducal Museum, which, in 
 addition to the Picture Gallery, contains an 
 interesting collection of antiquities and a 
 fine ceramic collection. Among the pic- 
 tures the Dutch School is especially well 
 represented, but there are also works by 
 Italian and French masters. From the win- 
 dow of my room in the hotel. I have a fine 
 view of the Burg-Platz, in the center of 
 which, on a modern pedestal, stands an an- 
 cient, bronze lion, that was erected here in 
 1 166, by Henry the Lion, as a symbol of his 
 supremacy. On the other side of the square 
 is the Cathedral. It was begun in 1173 in 
 the Romanesque style by Henry the Lion, 
 after his return from the Holy Land, and 
 has been added to in the latest style of each 
 century since. In it are the monument of 
 the founder and his consort Matilda, who 
 was a daughter of Henry II., of England, 
 and the sister of Richard Coeur de Lion. 
 In the Crypt are buried the Dukes of Bruns- 
 wick. I asked the elderly dame who acted 
 as our guide to point out the coffin of 
 "Schwarz Brunswick" which she did, and 
 It seemed to please her greatly that I should 
 ask, for, while hitherto she had been quite 
 curt, after that she was most gracious in 
 
Cathedral, Brunswick 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 159 
 
 showing US about. Although It was raining 
 when we got through with the Cathedral, I 
 managed to visit several shops and found 
 that the people were well pleased that their 
 "Duke" was coming back to live with them. 
 The Duke has recently married the Kaiser's 
 only daughter, and papa has very generously 
 given them a little wedding present by re- 
 storing to hubby a part of the property 
 stolen by his ancestors from an ancestor of 
 the new son-in-law. 
 
 Thursday, September i8. 
 On to Berlin I The country through which 
 the railway passes is flat but looks like fairly 
 good farming land. There are many lakes 
 scattered about, so it looks a good deal like 
 southern Minnesota. The towns through 
 which we passed were Magdeburg and Pots- 
 dam. On arriving in Berlin, we took a cou- 
 ple of taxi-cabs and, passing under the Bran- 
 denburg Gate, went by way of Unter den 
 Linden to our hotel. 
 
 Friday, September 19. 
 
 Took a walk about the town. Berlin is 
 
 a very handsome city and looks prosperous. 
 
 The business blocks are substantial, most of 
 
 them built of stone, five or six stories high. 
 
160 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 while the streets are wide and well paved. 
 Up in the neighborhood of the Royal Pal- 
 ace, where most of the fine public buildings 
 are grouped, the general effect is quite equal 
 to anything they have in Paris, but somehow 
 it has a **nouveau riche'* look about it. 
 
 Saturday, September 20. 
 
 This morning we went to the Art Museum 
 to see the Hildesheim Silver Treasure, a 
 famous collection of Roman plate, that dates 
 from the time of Augustus Caesar. It was 
 discovered in 1868 near the foot of Galgen- 
 berg at Hildesheim. As it did not take long 
 to look over these relics of the past, we went 
 on to the National Gallery, which contains 
 a large collection of modern paintings, 
 mostly by German Artists. In the afternoon 
 we went to the Emperor Frederick Museum, 
 which contains pictures by Old Masters of 
 the German, Italian, French and Spanish 
 schools. While I was in one of the cabinets 
 looking at some Dutch pieces, I heard a buz- 
 zing noise and on looking out of the window, 
 saw a large Zeppelin Airship passing over 
 the building. 
 
 Sunday, September 21. 
 
 Went to Mass this morning at St. Hed- 
 wig's Catholic Church, which I am told was 
 
pq 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 161 
 
 erected by that hardened, old infidel, Fred- 
 erick the Great, in 1747-73. In the after- 
 noon the boys and I went to the Arsenal, 
 where we saw some fine old armor. After 
 returning to the hotel, I happened to look 
 out of the window of my room and saw a 
 Zeppelin away over in the direction of Pots- 
 dam. After watching it a minute, I saw it 
 was coming in our direction, so I called the 
 family to the window and Raphael got a 
 photograph of it when passing quite near. 
 In a few minutes it returned, going back the 
 way it had come. The wind was light from 
 the west, however, the balloon seemed to 
 make but slow progress beating against it. 
 At best the "Zeppelin" is a big, clumsy af- 
 fair and, considering the cost, I do not see 
 how they can be of much use in a war. They 
 are far too slow in their movements and too 
 much at the mercy of the wind. I noticed 
 the following advertisement in a paper this 
 morning : 
 "Passenger Trips by the Zeppelin Airship 
 "HANSA" 
 from the airship-sheds at BERLIN- 
 POTSDAM. 
 The fare of the regular trips extend- 
 ing over 100 kms., and lasting about 2 
 hours will be M. 200.- — 
 
162 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 General information can be had at the 
 
 office Hamburg-Amerika Linie, 
 
 Unter den Linden 8, 
 
 Berlin, W. S." 
 The one we saw today was not the 
 "Hansa", if I could make out the name cor- 
 rectly, but the "Sachsen,'* so they probably 
 have several. 
 
 Monday, September 22. 
 
 Spent the day in hunting up various things 
 I wanted to see before we leave Berlin. In 
 the evening Charles and I went to the Ice 
 Palace and saw some good skating by a 
 troop of professionals. One of the lady 
 performers, named Charlotte, was very 
 graceful and with her partner did some won- 
 derful stunts. 
 
 Tuesday, September 23. 
 Took the train for Dresden. The land 
 about Berlin is quite flat but seems fertile. 
 The fields are large and appear to be mostly 
 planted to potatoes. There is considerable 
 timber bordering the roads and along the 
 lines that divide the fields. Where ever 
 there is a sandy patch of ground or a ridge 
 that cannot be cultivated, it is planted with 
 trees and they are generally evergreens. 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 163 
 
 Just before reaching Dresden, we came to 
 a bluff and descended into the valley of the 
 Elbe River, which is thickly settled. We got 
 poor rooms at a rather good hotel and were 
 charged "Grand Opera" prices for the same. 
 
 Wednesday, September 24. 
 Bright and early we went to the picture 
 gallery to see the famous Sistine Madonna 
 by Raphael and other renowned paintings. 
 The Madonna has a room to itself and is 
 hung against dark maroon colored draperies 
 that help to light up the picture by contrast. 
 While we were in the room, it was filled 
 with a number of enraptured females who 
 occupied all the seats available, so we stood 
 for a few minutes afar off and then went 
 to look at less popular paintings. After 
 dinner, this evening, we went across the 
 street to the Royal Opera House and saw 
 the "Jewels of the Madonna," which has 
 no connection whatever with the "Sistine 
 Madonna." The opera was given by the 
 Royal Troup, and the acting was solemn 
 and heavy but the music was good. The 
 Opera House is a very handsome building 
 with fine foyers and a grand auditorium. 
 The audience was well dressed and looked 
 very respectable. Quite a number of the 
 
164 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 women, It was evident, were from America, 
 and they were by far the best looking of 
 those present. 
 
 Thursday, September 25. 
 At the Johanneum there is a wonderful 
 collection of arms and armor. The most 
 interesting part of it is the display of Tilt- 
 ing Armor that formerly belonged to Saxon 
 Princes and nobles of the sixteenth century, 
 but the collection of wheel-lock pistols 
 should not be overlooked as it is probably 
 the finest in existence. In the afternoon, I 
 went back to the Art Museum to look up 
 the eighteenth century paintings of the 
 French School. There are some very good 
 Watteau's and several of Lancret's gay lit- 
 tle canvases, but nothing extraordinary. 
 
 Friday, September 26. 
 
 We are on the train bound for Prague. 
 Soon after leaving Dresden the valley of 
 the Elbe contracts and becomes a rocky gorge 
 or canon and the scenery, as a consequence, 
 is quite interesting. Large quantities of 
 building stone for use in Dresden have been 
 quarried from the cliffs along the river, but 
 most of it was taken so long ago, that kind 
 Mother Nature has done much to hide the 
 
w 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 165 
 
 scars With a mantle of verdure. On enter- 
 ing Bohemia, the valley widens out into a 
 tableland and there are extensive farms on 
 both sides of the road that are mostly 
 planted to sugar-beets, but occasionally we 
 pass a field that is devoted to the cultivation 
 of hops. In some of the beet fields the peas- 
 ants were at work and several times in the 
 same field, but at some distance away, we 
 saw a group of deer feeding; however, they 
 were always does and fawns that were prob- 
 ably protected by law from being harmed. 
 The one or two bucks, we saw, were in fields 
 where no one was about and seemed quite 
 wild. We arrived in Prague along towards 
 the middle of the afternoon and, soon after 
 reaching the hotel, Maud, Marian and I 
 fared forth on adventure bent. The Powder 
 Tower, one of the ancient gates of the old 
 walled city, stands across the street from our 
 hotel. It is a quaint, old Gothic structure 
 and after admiring it a while, we passed be- 
 neath its arches and walked down a street 
 that leads to the Old Town Square, in the 
 center of which rises a Column of the Vir- 
 gin, erected in 1650, to commemorate the 
 liberation of Prague from the Swedes in 
 1648. On the west side of the square is the 
 Old Town Hall and, looking back from in 
 
166 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 front of it, we had a ^ne view of the Tyn 
 Church with its two pointed towers, each 
 crowned by four graceful turrets. From the 
 square we went on down to the River Mol- 
 dau and from one of the bridges had a fine 
 view of the Cathedral and Royal Palace, 
 that crown the heights above the opposite 
 bank. Returning, we visited an ancient 
 Synagogue that was interesting but grimy. 
 It is noticeable here, that many of the horses 
 have their tails docked and that often a 
 single horse is hitched to one side of a pole, 
 in spite of which lop sided arrangement, he 
 seems to be able to draw the wagon in as 
 straight a course as though he were hitched 
 between a pair of shafts, as in America. 
 Horses have not yet been extensively dis- 
 placed by automobiles in Prague, in fact, 
 "machines" seem rather scarce here. 
 
 Saturday, September 27. 
 Went to the Art Gallery this morning to 
 see what "Bohemian Art" is like. Most of 
 the paintings by native artists are more dra- 
 matic than picturesque. Evidently the Bo- 
 hemian Artists paint to tell a story and use 
 strong, vivid colors in preference to delicate 
 tints. After lunch, for the sake of variety, 
 we took a carriage, not an autonobile, and 
 
Teynkirche, Prague 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 167 
 
 went across the Charles' Bridge to the "lit- 
 tle town" as it is called, for we wanted a 
 nearer view of the Cathedral of St. Vitus 
 and the Royal Palace. However, before vis- 
 iting the principal points of interest, being 
 in the hands of our driver, we had to make 
 various side trips. First we stopped to see 
 a Baroque Palace, that we were told had 
 formerly belonged to the Knights of Malta, 
 where we were led to believe there were a 
 number of things worth seeing, but the only 
 exhibit here that really interested me was 
 a collection of over five hundred pairs of 
 antlers from the heads of stags killed by 
 the owner of the palace. From this trophy 
 house we went up to the top of the hill 
 where stands the Church of Loretto, in the 
 court of which is an imitation of the cele- 
 brated Casa Santa, but as I have never seen 
 the original, I cannot say how accurate the 
 copy may be. The treasury of this church 
 contains several rich monstrances of the sev- 
 enteenth century, the most curious one was 
 in the form of a star, the rays of which 
 are said to be set with 6580 diamonds. The 
 story told to us was that all these precious 
 stones were from the wedding dress of a 
 lady whose portrait hung against the nearby 
 wall, but if the lady looked as sour as the 
 
168 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 portrait, she needed all the jewels to make 
 her attractive. Returning a bit, we passed 
 through the Hradcany Square, in the middle 
 of which there Is another Column of the Vir- 
 gin, erected in 1725, but what event it com- 
 memorates I could not ascertain; possibly 
 they have a liking here for columns just as 
 in Washington they have a craze for tin 
 horses. The Royal Palace is an immense 
 group of buildings, containing over seven 
 hundred rooms. We did not have time to 
 explore it, but drove through the three 
 courts, only pausing to look up at the win- 
 dow from which the Governors were 
 thrown. May 23, 1618, when some of the 
 Bohemian objected to being governed. 
 
 The Gothic Church of St. Vitus may not 
 be perfect in architecture, but, owing to its 
 dominating location, it is very picturesque 
 and certainly it contains much that is inter- 
 esting. The Chapel of St. Wenceslaus is a 
 wonderful shrine that is sacred to thousands 
 of Bohemians, and, as this happens to be the 
 feastday of the saint, there were several 
 thousand pilgrims crowded within its nar- 
 row confines this afternoon, so we did not 
 see it with comfort. Other interesting sights 
 in the Cathedral are the Royal Mausoleum, 
 on the flat top of which are the figures of 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 169 
 
 Ferdinand I., his consort Ann, and the Em- 
 peror Maximilian II., who are buried be- 
 neath, together with Charles IV., Wences- 
 laus IV., Ladislaus Posthumus, George Po- 
 diebrad, Rudolph II., and several queens 
 and princesses. Near by in the choir is the 
 silver shrine of St. John of Nepomuc. Re- 
 turning from the Cathedral, we passed the 
 huge Waldstein Palace, erected in 1623-30 
 for Albrecht von Wallenstein, the famous 
 general of the Thirty Year War, and still 
 in possession of the family. We recrossed 
 the Charles' Bridge, the buttresses of which 
 are adorned with a bronze Crucifix and 
 twenty-eight groups of statues of saints. In 
 the middle of the bridge is the bronze statue 
 of St. John Nepomuc, the patron saint of 
 Bohemia. A marble slab with a cross on 
 the right parapet of the bridge, between the 
 sixth and seventh pillars, marks the spot 
 where the saint is said to have been flung 
 from the bridge, in 1383, by order of 
 Wenceslaus IV., for refusing to betray what 
 the empress had confided to him in the con- 
 fessional. 
 
 Sunday, September 28. 
 Went to the Tyn Church first, this morn- 
 ing, and spent some time, while waiting for 
 
170 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 the service to begin, in gazing at the tomb of 
 Tycho Brahe, which happened to be near 
 the pew where I was seated. Although 
 Tycho's fame rests on his being an astrono- 
 mer, he is represented on his tomb as "a 
 warrior bold" all clad in armor. As there 
 seemed to be no indications that religious 
 services were to take place there in the near 
 future, and, as I was unable to make inquir- 
 ies, owing to my lack of knowledge of the 
 Bohemian tongue, I sallied forth to find an- 
 other church where they were holding ser- 
 vices. After walking some distance, I came 
 to a small chapel where Mass had just be- 
 gun, so I entered and squeezed into a pew 
 near the door. When I awoke after a re- 
 freshing nap this afternoon, not at the 
 church but in the room at the hotel, my fam- 
 ily had entirely disappeared, so, alone, I 
 walked to a hill on the other side of the 
 river, where there is a tall view tower. En- 
 tering an elevator, in company with several 
 good natured matrons and a parcel of chil- 
 dren, we ascended to a platform from which 
 there was a magnificent view of the city 
 as well as a large part of Bohemia. The 
 silvery Moldau winds through the town like 
 an inverted S and is crossed by eight or nine 
 bridges. Below were countless palaces and 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 171 
 
 churches, and near at hand was a large frag- 
 ment of the old town wall that has not yet 
 been levelled, while all around, were the 
 green fields and purple hills of Bohemia. 
 Somewhere in the neighborhood took place 
 the famous ''Battle of Prague", that some 
 thirty years ago we so often used to hear 
 "performed" by young ladies that were 
 learning to play the piano. Just which or 
 what "Battle of Prague" it was, I can't say, 
 but, judging by the noise of the piece, the 
 slaughter must have been terrific. 
 
 Monday, September 29. 
 A beautiful day and this afternoon we 
 go to Vienna. Bohemia is, comparatively, 
 a flat country, well cultivated and quite ex- 
 tensively planted with pine trees. Some of 
 the groves have but recently been set out 
 and look like well cultivated corn fields at 
 home. In other places the young trees are 
 large enough for bean-poles but in most of 
 the plantations they are from six to ten 
 inches in diameter. Just as soon as the tim- 
 ber is large enough to make into boards, it 
 is cut and after the branches have been care- 
 fully trimmed off, for they are saved for 
 fire wood, the trunks are hauled to the saw- 
 mill. If it were not for the groves and the 
 
172 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 many crosses and shrines to saints, that are 
 scattered about the country, it would look 
 very much like our western prairies. We 
 arrived in Vienna after dark and taking a 
 "bus" were hauled across the city, over 
 some rough pavement, to the Grand Hotel, 
 where they assigned us quite comfortable 
 rooms. 
 
 Tuesday, September 30. 
 
 Went to the Museum with the boys to 
 look at the old armor. They have a mag- 
 nifiicent collection there. After a while I 
 left my sons and went to the Picture Gallery. 
 The collection is especially good in paintings 
 of the Italian School. There are a number 
 of fine Titians with several Tintorettos and 
 Veroneses and more beautiful Palma Vec- 
 chios than I have ever before seen. Of Tus- 
 can Old Masters, I noticed a St. Catherine 
 by Parmigianino, and the famous "Madonna 
 al Verde" by Raphael. The afternoon was 
 spent in walking about the streets, up to the 
 Stephans Platz, watching the people, and 
 peeping into shops. At one place I found 
 what looked to me like a suit of old Gothic 
 armor. I shall take the boys up to have a 
 look at It tomorrow. 
 
u* 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 173 
 
 Wednesday, October i. 
 Today I went up to the Museum to join 
 Maud and Marian, who with Raphael had 
 preceded me. First I slipped into the rooms 
 on the lower floor to have another look at 
 the armor, for I wanted to compare some 
 of the suits with the one I found for sale 
 yesterday. It closely resembles a Gothic suit 
 that belonged to Sigmund of Tyrol (d. 
 1496). After having taken a hasty look 
 through some of the other rooms on this 
 floor, I started to go up stairs to the Picture 
 Galleries to find my family, for I knew Ra- 
 phael desired to go elsewhere, when whom 
 should I meet on the stairs but my brother 
 Frank and his wife Luisa. They have been 
 in Vienna for the past two days, are stop- 
 ping at the "Bristol" just across the street 
 from our hotel and in the meantime have 
 been hunting for us. They were leaving the 
 building but turned back and we went in 
 search of Maud, Marian and Raphael, 
 whom we soon found in one of the galleries. 
 To say my crowd was surprised hardly ex- 
 presses their feelings. After visiting a 
 while, we decided to go over to the Hofburg 
 to see the guard changed, Raphael in the 
 meantime having gone to keep his appoint- 
 
174 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 ment with Charles, but promising that they 
 both would meet us at the Palace. The 
 change of the guard was quite interesting to 
 watch, as the marching step of the Hun- 
 garian soldiers, who relieved the Yager 
 company on duty, was very peculiar. Noth- 
 ing describes it better than a "cake-walk." 
 After it was over we all went to our hotel 
 for lunch. In the afternoon Charles and 
 I went to buy the suit of Gothic armor that 
 I discovered yesterday. The boys think it is 
 mostly genuine, and certainly, to me, it looks 
 like the one in the museum that belonged to 
 Archduke Sigmund of Tyrol. The dealer 
 says he bought it from the collection of 
 Prince Windischgratz. In the same shop 
 there was a nice half-suit painted black, 
 such as the Bavarians wore in the Thirty 
 Year War, but it had been sold just a few 
 minutes before we arrived, so, much to our 
 regret, we could not get it. This evening, 
 Frank insisted that I go over to his hotel 
 to see the bar-maid, "the handsomest woman 
 in Vienna." I went but cannot say that I 
 agree as to the verdict. The lady in ques- 
 tion is tall, dark and quite of the Junoesque 
 type. She told me she came from the Black 
 Forest, so she is not a Viennese woman. 
 
Ui 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 175 
 
 Thursday, October 2. 
 Charles and I went to the Army Museum 
 out at the Artillery Arsenal. The superb 
 Vestibule is adorned with fifty-six marble 
 statues of "Austrian Generals." However, 
 among them I noticed Prince Eugene of Sa- 
 voy, who certainly was not of Austrian birth. 
 Ascending the imposing stairs, we enter the 
 Ruhmeshalle ("Hall of Fame"), a fine 
 domed hall containing memorial tablets to 
 Austrian Heroes, while on the walls are 
 frescoes of famous battles in which the Au- 
 strian armies have engaged. In the rooms 
 to the right are arms and equipments used 
 in the Thirty Year War and down to 1783. 
 In the rooms to the left are trophies and 
 weapons from that date down to the pres- 
 ent time. We were greatly interested in 
 the various guns we saw. In the evening 
 we went to the Opera House to see a couple 
 of ballets and a short operetta. The latter 
 was what we in America call, "Suzanne's 
 Secret." The principal ballet was called the 
 "Red Shoe." The dancing was wonderful 
 and from where we sat, the women, some 
 thirty or forty in number, were a fine looking 
 lot. As for their dancing, any one of them 
 would have passed for a "premiere" in 
 America. 
 
176 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 Friday, October 3. 
 Went with Frank and Luisa out to Schon- 
 brunn, the Summer Palace of the Emperor. 
 We entered by the fore court and passed 
 through the park with its straight walks, 
 clipped trees, grottoes and ponds, up to the 
 "Gloriette,*' a colonnade, one hundred and 
 four yards long and sixty-two feet high, 
 built in 1775. From the platform on the 
 roof we had a splendid view of the park and 
 the city beyond. Returning we met our car- 
 riage in front of the entrance to the Zoolog- 
 ical Gardens. Frank and Luisa leave this 
 evening for Budapest; we shall meet again 
 in Paris. 
 
 Saturday, October 4. 
 
 Aboard the train for MunicE. Just be- 
 fore reaching Linze we had a fine view of the 
 Danube River. It is a noble stream, not 
 quite so wide as the Missouri at Omaha. At 
 Salsburg, a very picturesque looking city, we 
 got a peep at some of the snow-clad peaks 
 of the Tyrol. We arrived at Munich after 
 dark and went to the "Hotel Vier Jahres- 
 zeiten" (Hotel Four Seasons). 
 
 Sunday, October 5. 
 Maud, Charles and I went to Mass at the 
 Theatines Kirche. The singing was quite 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 177 
 
 good, probably the best we have heard this 
 summer. After lunch the boys and I went 
 to see the Army Museum, where there is a 
 good collection of old armor and many relics 
 of the Franco-Prussian War. Later I took 
 a walk down town to the Grand Hotel Belle- 
 vue, where we stopped the last time we were 
 here. 
 
 Monday, October 6. 
 
 Wasted a lot of valuable time this morn- 
 ing over arranging for our transportation to 
 Paris. We wanted to stop at Strassburg and 
 Rheims but it seemed to be impossible to 
 arrange for the latter place, so I had to 
 give it up. In the afternoon, I went up to 
 the Alte Pinakothek and saw a number of my 
 favorite pictures. Hunted up the portrait 
 of Alice Ruthven by Van Dyck, which I used 
 to admire greatly, but, sad to relate, she 
 does not appeal to me now, as she did once 
 upon a time. 
 
 Tuesday, October 7. 
 
 We men folks could not resist visiting the 
 National Museum to see the old armor. 
 There are some fine suits in the collection, 
 including one or two of the Gothic period. 
 Many of the exhibits are crowded too closely 
 together. Then, where they have a number 
 
178 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 of duplicates, they should sell a few of the 
 surplus to people like myself and with the 
 proceeds buy specimens that they lack. 
 There is in this town a man, Schmidt by 
 name, who makes such good imitations of 
 ancient armor that it is hard to tell them 
 from the genuine. Of course there are some 
 details he neglects that give him away, but 
 I am not going to tell what they are for then 
 he might make such good copies that even 
 the wise **guys" might be fooled. 
 
 Wednesday, October 8. 
 We left Munich just after lunch and ar- 
 rived at Strassburg a little before nine 
 o'clock this evening. Secured rooms at the 
 National Hotel. The country through 
 which we passed was well cultivated. Of 
 Augsburg we did not see much. At Ulm we 
 got a glimpse of the Cathedral, which has a 
 very tall spire. When Stuttgart was reached 
 we only touched the outskirts of the town. 
 Before arriving at Karlsrhue, we had to 
 change cars, and, after passing that place, 
 we were on and off several trains. As a con- 
 sequence we were quite fatigued when we 
 reached our destination and only wanted a 
 bath and a bed, but instead we had pates 
 de foie gras at a late supper and I went to 
 
In Munich 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 179 
 
 bed minus the bath, for there was only one 
 bath-room available and, it was "women and 
 children first." 
 
 Thursday, October 9. 
 
 On our way to the Cathedral this morning, 
 we passed through a square on one side of 
 which was a large building with an arcade. 
 I was astonished to see a company of Prus- 
 sian soldiers seated on benches beneath the 
 arcade and in front of them, resting in racks 
 quite handily, were their rifles. It does not 
 look as though, even after forty years of 
 training, the government entirely trusted the 
 citizens. The principal sight at the Cathe- 
 dral is the wonderful clock. 
 
 There was a celebrated clock in Strassburg 
 Cathedral as early as the middle of the four- 
 teenth century, but by the beginning oF the 
 sixteenth century it had ceased to run. In 
 the year 1547 the Magistrate of the Free 
 Imperial City ruled, therefore, that a new 
 astronomical clock should be constructed and 
 placed opposite the old one in the Cathedral. 
 (In the place where the clock now stands.) 
 
 This clock served its purpose very well 
 until 1789 when the works were destroyed. 
 In 1836, for the third time, the Municipality 
 of Strassburg decided that a new astronomi- 
 
180 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 cal clock should be placed In the old frame- 
 work and intrusted Mr. Schwilgue, a watch- 
 maker of the city, with the task. He com- 
 pleted his undertaking in four years and it 
 may be justly said to be unique in the world. 
 
 The clock contains a perpetual calendar 
 indicating all the variable holy-days and reg- 
 ulates itself in leap years. There is in addi- 
 tion an ecclesiastical computation, a plane- 
 tarium representing the revolutions of the 
 planets, the phases of the moon, the eclipses 
 of the sun and moon, calculated to the re- 
 motest time, a new celestial globe with indi- 
 cations of the equinoxes, etc. 
 
 The remaining parts of the mechanism are 
 confined to a repetition — of course in more 
 perfect form — of the old ones, the frame- 
 work being the same. The first stroke of 
 each quarter hour is struck by one of the 
 little angels seated above the perpetual cal- 
 endar, the second stroke of each quarter by 
 one of the four ages, that proceed around 
 the central figure Death. Childhood strikes 
 the first quarter. Youth the second. Man- 
 hood the third and Old Age the last. Death 
 strikes the hours, while the second little 
 angel turns the hour glass he holds in his 
 hands. At the stroke of twelve, the twelve 
 apostles pass before Christ bowing to him; 
 
Strassburg 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 181 
 
 the Savior blesses them by raising his hand, 
 while the cock crows and flaps his wings 
 three times. The cock is the true historical 
 feature of the work; it has been faithfully- 
 retained since the fourteenth century during 
 the various renovations, and has thus daily 
 amused and astonished the generations of 
 five centuries. During the afternoon I 
 strolled about the town and found that there 
 were many interesting old houses in the city, 
 and some quite handsome, modern mansions. 
 
 Friday, October lo. 
 Took the train for Paris this morning. 
 About noon we passed the boundary between 
 Germany and France where we were care- 
 fully inspected, first by German and then by 
 French officials. The first town of import- 
 ance we came to, after entering France, was 
 Nancy which is quite a bustling place. About 
 Epernay there are many vinyards that pro- 
 duce the wine from which champagne is 
 made and, on a hill near that place, I noticed 
 a colossal statue of some saint. We arrived 
 in Paris just before ^ve o'clock in the after- 
 noon and as we drove to the Dysart Hotel 
 it seemed as though the streets of Paris had 
 never before looked so gay. There were so 
 many trim looking young women in evidence. 
 
182 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 At the hotel we found my sister Stella and 
 Mrs. S — awaiting our arrival. They are 
 not stopping at our inn but at a splurgy 
 place up near the Arc de Triomphe de 1' 
 Etoile; however, they did stay to dinner, 
 for we have good meals here. 
 
 Saturday, October ii. 
 Went over to the bank this morning, then 
 to the steamship company's office to arrange 
 for passage home. Charles is going to stay 
 with Stella and they will go on around the 
 world. Mrs. S 's passage was on an- 
 other line, but I have arranged it so she can 
 go with us on our ship. No need of her 
 going alone, for the agent of our line is very 
 accommodating. In the afternoon Gerard 
 and Antonia called; both are looking well. 
 In the evening we all went up to Stella's hotel 
 to dine with her. There are lots of pretty 
 women there but no men. 
 
 Sunday, October 12. 
 
 Went around to my little, old church to 
 Mass and probably it will be a long time be- 
 fore I go there again. In the afternoon, 
 over to the Place de la Concorde to see the 
 balloons start in the International Race. 
 There were over forty, and among them 
 
Arc de Triomphe, Paris 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 183 
 
 three from America. While we were watch- 
 ing them, an aeroplane sailed over and 
 seemed to be under perfect control. They 
 are the machines that will dominate the air 
 in the future. After the last big gas bag had 
 disappeared southward, over the dome of 
 the Pantheon, we went to call on Gerard 
 and his wife who live quite near, but they 
 were out, so we returned to our hotel. 
 
 Monday, October 13. 
 Frank and Luisa arrived today and in the 
 evening we went over to the Hotel Crillon 
 to see them. The Crillon is in one of those 
 big, old buildings on the north side of the 
 Place de la Concorde and is the very latest 
 thing in the hotel line in Paris. It is a 
 stately, old building erected 1 762-1 770, and 
 was called "Hotel Crillon-Coislin", but I 
 don't believe it was ever an inn before. Two 
 years ago, when I was here, they had just 
 started to renovate the old building, and at 
 the time I wondered what they were going 
 to do to it and was relieved when I found 
 it was not to be pulled down. 
 
 Tuesday, October 14. 
 Today cousin Daisy and her husband 
 called. She is Maud's cousin and I did not 
 
184 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 know she was abroad. They saw our names 
 announced as among the arrivals in Paris 
 and were good enough to hunt us up. He is 
 Lieutenant Commander in the United States 
 Navy and a fine looking man. I have met 
 him before but it is the first time that Marian 
 has seen him and she was quite smitten by 
 **cousin Archie." They stayed to lunch and 
 we had a very pleasant afternoon. 
 
 Wednesday, October 15. 
 Have been busy all day just running about. 
 This evening I had all of our friends to din- 
 ner and we had quite a gay time in the pri- 
 vate dining room of the Dysart, which we 
 had all to ourselves. 
 
 Thursday, October 16. 
 
 Up exploring the north part of Paris to- 
 wards Montmartre. In the afternoon Maud, 
 Marian and I took tea with Daisy and 
 Archie at Rumpelmayer's. My I the place 
 was crowded and there were lots of pretty 
 women there. 
 
 Friday, October 17. 
 Down to the Latin Quarter, exploring 
 and revisiting old places this morning. In 
 the afternoon Maud and I went to call on 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 185 
 
 Mrs. Biddle. In the evening Frank gave a 
 feast at the Restaurant Prunier and we were 
 all there, had a splendid time and a fine 
 meal; oysters on half shell, grilled lobster, 
 roast partridge, foie gras, salade and des- 
 sert, with plenty of good wine. A grand 
 preliminary for a sea voyage, 
 
 Saturday, October i8. 
 
 We, that are going home to America, were 
 at the station early to catch the boat train, 
 which leaves at lo A. M. Those who are 
 to stay behind were also there to say good- 
 bye. On arriving at Boulogne, we were in- 
 formed that our steamer, the Nieuw Amster- 
 dam, was late on account of fog, so we had 
 plenty of time to inspect the town, and now 
 after supper we are still at the hotel. 
 
 Sunday, October 19. 
 
 When we got aboard the steamship at 
 twelve o'clock last night, we were a tired 
 lot, but this morning it is bright and all of 
 our party showed up by breakfast time. 
 Spent most of the morning in the smoking 
 room listening to Mr. Wickersham discourse 
 upon various subjects. 
 
 Monday, October 20. 
 Our good ship is speeding down the Eng- 
 
186 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 lish Channel. Just before dark we passed 
 the Lizard. The steamship Zealand is in 
 sight ahead. The sea is rough and the sail- 
 ors are preparing for a storm by stretching 
 life lines along the deck. 
 
 Tuesday, October 21. 
 This is the first time I have ever been on 
 a ship when they had to stretch life lines 
 along the decks and put racks on the dining 
 room tables. About nine o^clock this morn- 
 ing we passed the steamship Zealand and it 
 was a fine sight to see the spray dash over 
 her funnels. We are protected by heavy 
 glass windows on the promenade deck and 
 over those they have fixed wooden shutters 
 on the exposed side and ahead. At dinner 
 
 this evening, Mrs. S , Frank and I were 
 
 all that showed up at our table. Soup and 
 coffee were impossible but we did have a bot- 
 tle of wine that was put in its own special 
 rack. Suddenly the ship made a wild plunge 
 and the bottle went sailing over Mrs. 
 
 S 's head, but she, doing an elegant 
 
 short-stop stunt, caught It with one hand and 
 gracefully returned it to the rack. We con- 
 gratulated her on not spilling a drop. 
 
 Wednesday, October 22. 
 The sea is smoother this morning, but 
 
M 
 
A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 187 
 
 there is still some roll. We have a Roman 
 Count aboard whose old palace I remember 
 having seen somewhere down below the 
 Corso. When he found out that I was from 
 the West, he asked if I had ever been to 
 Fort Atkinson. Then without waiting for 
 an answer, he told me he was going there. I 
 had never heard of the place, and to hide my 
 ignorance, asked him why he was going 
 there. He told me that there was a Model 
 Dairy Farm located at Fort Atkinson and, 
 as he intended to convert his estates in Italy 
 into a dairy, he was going there to study 
 modern methods in the dairy business. 
 Finally, by means of judicious questioning, 
 I discovered that Fort Atkinson was in the 
 State of Wisconsin, so you see I have learned 
 something new regarding the geography of 
 my own country today. 
 
 Thursday, October 23. 
 Pleasant day, sea smooth, and the air 
 balmy. Almost everybody on deck. Saw 
 a large steamship to the south, bound east. 
 As a diversion we had life-boat drill this af- 
 ternoon. 
 
 Friday, October 24. 
 
 Bright day, colder with wind from astern. 
 We had a fine dinner this evening to cele- 
 
188 A SUMMER IN NORTHERN LANDS 
 
 brate the twenty-fourth anniversary of our 
 wedding. The head steward got it up with 
 Raphael's assistance. There were specially 
 printed menu cards, with wonderfully named 
 dishes; Coupe Luise aux Liquers, Per- 
 dreaux Roti au Nid, Salade Stella, Peches 
 Flambees a la Marian, and Soufflee Maud 
 en Surprise. 
 
 Saturday, October 25. 
 
 Fine day, quite smooth. About the only 
 diversion is walking the deck. However, 
 after dinner this evening they did have a 
 little dance. 
 
 Sunday, October 26. 
 
 Beautiful day, although we had some fog 
 last night. Passed a French steamer bound 
 west. It was quite exciting as evidently the 
 Frenchman did not intend to let us get by, 
 but, notwithstanding the great cloud of black 
 smoke that was pouring from his funnels, 
 we slid past him. 
 
 Monday, October 27. 
 'Arrived in New York at one o'clock this 
 afternoon and as soon as we were through 
 the Custom House examination took a car- 
 riage to the Seville Hotel.