-? STAR PAPERS. STAR PAPERS; OB, Ciwrintra of M nnit Jiatttre. BY HENRY WARD BEECHER g*to fbrk: J. C. DERBY, 119 NASSAU STREET. BOSTON :— PHILLIPS, SAMPSON & CO. Cincinnati: — n. w. derby. i 8 57. TS/0S4 IS Entered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, Bv IIexky Ward Bkecher, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern DU- trict of New York. By Transfer D. C. Public Library JUN 7 1938 wrra^ WN w PEBFACE. he author has been saved the trouble of search- I for a title to his book from the simple circum- ^e that the articles of which the work is made appeared in the columns of the New York Inde- lent with the signature of a star, and, having ■ familiarly called the Star Articles, by way of designation, tney now become, in a book form, Star Papers. Only such papers as related to Art and to rural affairs, have been published in this volume. It was thought best to put air controversial articles in an- other, and subsequent, volume. The Letters from Europe were written to home- friends, during a visit of only four weeks ; a period too skort to allow the subsidence of that enthusiasm which every person must needs experience who, for the first time, stands in the historic places of the Old World. An attempt to exclude from these let- Vi PREFACE. ters any excess of personal feeling, to reduce them to a more moderate tone, to correct their judgments, or to extract from them the fiery particles of enthusiasm, would have taken away their very life. The other papers in this volume, for the most part, were written from the solitudes of the country, during the vacations of three summers. I can express no kinder wish for those who may read them, than that they may be one half as happy in the reading as I have been in the scenes which gave them birth. CONTENTS. LETTERS FROM EUROPE. PAOB I. Ruins of Kenilworth. — Warwick Castle 9 II. A Sabbath at Stratford-on-Avon ... . 27 III. Oxford 41 IV. The Louvre — Luxembourg Gallery 56 V. The Louvre TO VI. London National Gallery 77 EXPERIENCES OF NATURE. L A Discourse of Flowers 98 IL Death in the Country 106 III. Inland vs. Seashore 110 IV. New Enuland Graveyards 121 V. Towns and Trees 129 VI. The First Breath in the Country 137 VII. Trouting 144 VIII. A Ride 152 IX. The Mountain Stream 161 X A Country Ride 172 XI. Farewell to the Country 182 XII. School Reminiscence 189 8 CONTENTS. PMI XIII. The Value of Birds 1 94 XIV. A Rough Picture from Life 1 1)7 XV. A Ride to Fokt Hamilton 201 XVI. Sights from my Window 211 XVII. The Death of our Almanac 218 XVIII. Fog in the Harbor 226 XIX. The Morals of FisniNG 'ii'.l XX. The Wanderings of a Star 240 XX I. Book-Stores, Books 250 X XII. Gone to the Country 256 XXI II. 1 >rkam-Culturb 263 XXIV. A Walk among Trees 271 XXV. Building a House 285 XXVI. CniusTiAN Liberty in the Use of the Beautiful 293 XXVII. Nature a Minister of Happiness 303 XXVIII. Springs and Solitudes 314 XXIX Mid-October Days 324 XXX. A Moist Letter 336 XXXI. Frost in the Window 344 XXXII. Snow-Storm Traveling 848 LETTERS FEOM EUEOPE. I. RUINS OF KENILWORTH. — WARWICK CASTLE. ^T^LTE sun is sliining through haze of smoke and va por: and every body says, what a splendid day! a1 least, everybody whose ideas of a fine day are English It is a fine day in England when it does not actually jain. To-day, then, blessed with a sun that shines visibly, but with a tender brightness, I will go to Kenil worth ; and to Warwick castle ; and to Stratford- on-Avon, more interesting to me than either. "Waiter, will you bring my bill? I leave in the 10£ o'clock train to Coventry." "Yez-zur." Ah, very reasonable. I have been here a day and a-half, and it is but five dollars and a-quarter, servants' fees and all; which, by the way, I will always have included in the bill. I do not like to settle with four landlords at every inn ; — • the chambermaid landlady, the boots landlord, the waiter landlord, the porter landlord, and the landlord — five instead of four. To the railway station is but 1* 10 RIDE TO KENILWORTH. a step ; the waiter bids me a very polite good-bye — we don't shake hands — and the porter with my baggage follows me to the cars. A trim little engine, with a smoke-pipe not larger than our stove-pipes, is amus- ing itself with every antic possible to a thing of its nature. It runs out with a fierce whistle, for no other reason, apparently, than to run back again with another whistle. It reminds one of a rheumatic old gentleman pacing about to limber his joints. After a little sport he sobers down to business and falls to work making up a train. I am booked for the second- class cars, which are about one-third cheaper than the first class, and a good deal more than that uncom- fortable, as I will by and by explain. My shining patent-leather valise and my rival shining carpet-bag, (for one is American and the other is English, and so I call them my John and Jonathan,) are put into the compartment and piled up on the seat before me ; my overcoat, neatly folded, is put upon the uncushioned oak seat for me by the obliging porter. In spite of my determination to fee none of the railway servants, I did slip a sixpence into his hands, and he did shut his fingers upon it without apparent pain. - And now, the bustle over — for, true to American habits, I became quite eager, and stepped about much more lively than there was any need for — I will watch other people. I am struck with the ease manifested. These plump people will not sweat themselves. Nice old gentlemen walk as quietly along as if passing out to tea in their own houses. The railway servants in RIDE TO KENILWOKTH. 11 uniform, with their number worked in white upon their coat-coiiars, are diligent, but very measured in their functions. One is stowing this man's luggage on the top of the car — for large baggage goes upon the top, and small stuff goes into the car with you ; another trundles a wheeled basket with packages, careful to knock no one down; another stops respectfully to answer a gentleman's questions. I hear no shouting, see no racing about, hear no oaths or contentions ; there is no higgling for fares, but every thing is very easy and orderly. Now steps out a man with the largest of 1 i;md-bells, with which he gives three or four strokes, saying as plainly as words could say it, " Get into the cars, all who mean to." In a moment more he strikes again, and chunk comes the engine into connection with the train. Without further signal you move away slowly out of the station-house and thread your way through a perfect maze of tracks. "We are rushing through the open fields. The lots are small, seldom of more than one or two acres, divided by hedges, which, for the most part, are uncombed, ragged, and full of gaps ; yet, even thus, more agreeable to the eye than rigid fences. Trees, in groups of two or three, but more often in rows along the hedges, have that unvarying dark, almost black, green, which, thus far, has characterized the foliage which I have seen about Liverpool, Manchester, and Birmingham. The shades of green which we see in America, aud the liveliness and airiness of foliage seem wanting. But the eye is never weary with the landscape. As we drive through 12 RIDE TO KENILWORTH. the cuts, the bank on either hand is carved evenly with a perfect slope to the top, and is there ruffled with a close- cut hedge, while the sides are grassed down to the road, and the edges of the grass cut as regularly along the whole way as a border of turf in a gentleman's garden. When the road rises above the surrounding country, the sides of it are planted ; so that the eye is cheered with a beautiful arboretum, in which are elms, maples, moun- tain ash, poplars, and, .among others, a beautiful droop- ing tamarack or larch, as it appears to my eye. The stations are little gems of places. The way-stations, out of towns, are frequently decorated with flowers and miniature pleasure-grounds. If there be a bit of ground but ten feet square, it is a turf-plat, with a raised bed cut out of it, or cut into it, on which are displayed fine, thrifty tufts of flowers. They are not, either, dumped down just as it may happen; but are arranged with uniform good taste. Thus a fuchsia, two or three feet high, covered with brilliant crimson blossoms, has grow- ing behind it a tuft of tall grass, upon whose vivid green the plant is admirably contrasted. Neat little spots of pansies, of different varieties, foxglove, marigolds, ge- raniums, roses, and, always, profusely, the fragrant minionette, fill up the bed. I had read enough of English agriculture to know very well that there was much waste soil — fens, sand- wastes, etc. But I had read and heard also that England was a garden. This expression, as more poetical, had clung to my imagination ; and I found myself a little disappointed when I came upon poor and neglected lands RIDE TO KENIL WORTH. 13 and waste spots, most ungardenlike. But this is only one of a hundred things which teaches me how much better it is to see a thing, than to read about it or imagine it. The fields of grain were rapidly changing from green to a golden russet. The sickle, in a few days, will grow bright in its work. Fields of turnips, planted in long rows, straight as a rule could draw them, are being hoed and thinned out by men, women and chil- dren. They do not even look up as we shoot past them. Eide to Kenilworth Castle. Calling for a cab, I started from Coventry upon a five- miles ride to Kenilworth. The road was smooth as a floor, rising and falling over gentle swells of ground, bordered the whole way with oaks and elms. The sky above was perfectly clear, but, all around the horizon, banks of cloud were piled up in huge cliffs, rounded masses, but at the edge fleecy and melting off to a mist. Beautiful, most beautiful are the fields, some close cut — for haying is over — some with grain, and a few just plowed. The hedges are full of flowers which I do not recognize. And now, I am riding to a famous old castle. I shall but look on it and pass on. Others would enjoy this more than I shall. It requires a store of historical associations ; and much of the sen- timent of veneration; or else a lively relish for anti- quarian lore ; none of which have I. My thoughts were broken by the driver— honest soul ! — asking to what inn he should go. Yankee like, I replied by asking 14 EUINS OF KENILWOETH CASTLE. • where it was best to go. " To King's Head, sir." " Very well, King's Head let it be." "We turn the corner. Here is a Lord's carriage, I suppose, just before us Well, he has as much right to go to Kenil worth as I. Paying the driver — not so honest a soul after all — two shillings more than he should have had, because he declined giving change, under a plea of begging for a gratuity — I sallied forth toward the ruins. As the road wound among trees, I was close upon them before I saw them. When they rose up before me I found myself trembling, I knew not why. I could not help tears from coming. I had never in my life seen an old building. I had never seen a ruin. Here, for the first time in my life, I felt the presence of a venerable ruined castle! At first I did not wish to go within the walls which enclosed the grounds, and so strolled a little way along the outside. I can not tell what a strange mingling of imagination, and thoughts, and emotions, took possession of me. At length I entered. With a little plan of the building I traced the rooms from point to point — the great banqueting Hall, the scene of wondrous festivities which shall never again disturb its silence, being the most perfectly preserved of any apartment. I was surprised to find how much I knew of Kenilworth Cas- tle. Had one asked me as I rode hither, I should have replied that I knew only that it was old and famous, that it was by Scott wrought into one of his most suc- cessful novels. But as I sat in a room, upon a fallen stone, one incident after another from the novel, and RUINS OF KENILWORTH CASTLE. 15 from history, came to me, one name after another, until I seemed to be visiting an old and familiar place. And now I am sitting in what was, in its days of glory, the Inner Court, and leaning against Leicester's, buildings. Before me is Cesar's Tower — the oldest, the most mass- ive, and the best preserved of any part. It was old a thousand years ago. Masses of ivy cover its recessed angles and its corners. Through its arched windows, where the walls are more than ten feet thick, — yea, sixteen feet, as my book says, — I see trees and a tangled mass of growing vines, rooted upon the ruins that have fallen and enclosed by the walls of its former halls. Through the square windows above I see fleecy clouds sailing lazily in the air. In what was the " three Kitchens " are growing old butternut trees and haws. The banqueting hall, whose side presented four beau- tiful windows, has but two of them in a tolerable state of preservation ; and projecting fragments show in outline where the others were. I stood in the windows opposite these, where Elizabeth, and hundreds of fairer and better women than she, looked out upon the lake and orchard. But how different were my thoughts and theirs ; the scene which they admired and that which I beheld ! From beneath these crumbled ruins too, utterly forgotten now, except of God, shall arise many forms to stand with me in judgment. Those who reveled here, squire, knight, and lady, those who rebelled and plotted, they who built and those who destroyed, how do they seem to me now, as I bring them back in im- agination ! — and how strangely contemptible seems, for 16 WARWICK CASTLE. the most part, that greatness which was then so great ! I have never felt such solemnity in the presence of physical creations. But these stones, these old gate- ways, these mounds, what power have they to send the soul back through ages of time, and stir it up from its very bottom ! I could not bear the approach of men. The children of a party, visiting like myself, came frol- icking round the place where I sat ; but, for the first time, children and their sports pained me. I would, if I could, come and sit in this court at evening — after sunset, or by moonlight. Then should I not see flitting shadows and forms, and hear low airy voices ? As it was, a spirit almost spoke to me ; for, going into one of the tower halls of Leicester's building, I heard a clear ringing sound, and a tiny echo like a bird, in the de- serted room. Sure enough it was a bird, sitting far up upon a window-sill, and trying his voice in the solitude. Fly away, little friend, this is no place for you ; the trees and hedges are yours, but not this old solitude! At last I awoke. Three hours had passed like a dream. I hastened back to my inn, with a strange sadness of spirit, which I did not shake off all day. Perhaps I have some veneration after all, if it were rightly come at. Warwick Castle. Taking a cab, I started for "Warwick. The same smooth road, the same trees, the same beautifully diver- sified fields, and the same blue sky over them, only the clouds are all islands now, floating about just above the WAEWICK CASTLE. IT horizon; but I have not the same light-hearted, sing- ing spirit which I had in the morning ; there is a deep, yet a pleasant sadness, which I do not wish to shake off. I was glad that I had visited the place alone ; no one should go except alone. While at Kenilworth, had those I love most been with me, we would have separated, and each should have wandered alone up and down and around the solemn old place. The landscape is full of soft beauty, yet my thoughts are running back to the olden time. But here we come to "Warwick ! What bands of steel-clad knights have tramped these streets before us! Here is, doubtless, the old gate of the town renewed with modern stone. Ordering dinner at six o'clock, I start for the castle, without the remotest idea of what I shall see. Walk ing along a high park wall which forms one part of the town, or rather which stops the town from extend- ing further in that direction — the top covered with ivy, that garment of English walls and buildings — I come to the gateway of the ajiproach. A porter opens its huge leaf. Cut through a solid rock, the road, some twenty feet wide, winds for a long way in the most solemn beauty. The sides, in solid rock, vary from five to twenty feet in height — at least so it seemed to my imagination — the only faculty that I allowed to conduct me. It was covered on both hands with ivy, growing down from above, and hanging in beautiful reaches. Solemn trees on the bank, on either side, met overhead, and cast a delicious twilight down upon my way, and made it yet softer by a murmuring of 18 WARWICK CASTLE, their leaves; while multitudes of little birds flew about and sang merrily. Winding in graceful curves, it at last brings you to the first view of the Castle, -at a distance of some hundred rods before you. It opens on the sight with grandeur ! On either corner is a huge tower, apparently one hundred and fifty feet high; ir the center is a square tower, called properly a gateway; and a huge wall connects this central access with tlie two corner towers. I stood for a little, and let the vision pierce me through. Who can tell what he feels ha such a place ! How, especially, can I tell you — who have never seen, or felt, such a view any more than I had before this time! Primeval forests, the ocean, prairies, Niagara, I had seen and felt. But never had I seen any pile around which were historic associations, blended not only with heroic men and deeds, but savoring of my own childhood. And now, too, am I to see, and understand by inspection, the things which Scott has made so familiar to all as mere words — moats, portcullises, battlements, keeps or mounds, arrow-slit windows, watch-towers. They had a strange effect upon me ; they were perfectly new, and yet familiar old friends. I had never seen them, yet the moment I did behold, all was instantly plain ; I knew name and use, and seemed in a moment to have known them always. My mind was so highly excited as to be perfectly calm, and apparently it perceived by an intuition. I seemed to spread myself over all that was around or before me, while in the court and on the walls, or rather to draw every thing within me. I WARWICK cas:le. 19 fear that I seem crazy to you. It was, however, the calmness of intense excitement. I came up to the moat, now dry, and lined with beau- tiful shrubs and trees, crossed the bridge, and entered the outer gateway or arched door, through a solid square tower. The portcullis was drawn up, but I could see the projecting end. Another similar gateway, a few steps further on, showed the care with, which the de- fense was managed. This passed, a large court opened, surrounded on" every side with towers, walls, and vast ranges of buildings. Here I beheld the pictures which I had seen on paper, magnified into gigantic realities. Drawings of many-faced, irregular, Gothic mansions, measuring an inch or two, with which my childhood was familiar, here stood before me measuring hundreds and hundreds of feet. It was the first sight of a real baronial castle ! It was a historic dream breaking forth, into a waking reality. It is of very little use to tell you how large the court is, by feet and rods ; or that Guy's Tower is 128 feet high, and Cesar's Tower 147. But it may touch your imagination, and wheel it suddenly backward with long flight and wide vision, to say that Cesar's Tower has stood for 800 years, being coeval with the Norman Con- quest ! I stood upon its mute stones and imagined the ring of the hammer upon them when the mason was laying them to their bed of ages. What were the thoughts, the fancies, the conversations of these rude fellows, at that age of the world ! I was wafted back- ward, and backward, until I stood on the foundations 20 WARWICK CASTLE. upon which old England herself was builded, when as jet there was none of her. There, far back of all liter ature, before the English tongue itself was formed, earlier than her jurisprudence, and than all modern civilization, I stood, in imagination, and, reversing my vision, looked down into a far future to search for the men and deeds which had been, as if they were yet to be ; thus making a prophesy of history ; and changing memory into a dreamy foresight. When these stones were placed, it was yet to be two hundred years before Gower and Chaucer should be born. Indeed, since this mortar was wetted and ce- mented these stones, the original people, the Normans, the Danes, the Saxons, have been mixed together into one people. When this stone, on which I lean, took its place, there was not then a printed book in England. Printing was invented hundreds of years after these foundations went down. When the rude workmen put their shoulders to these stones, the very English lan- guage lay unborn in the loins of its parent tongues. The men that laughed and jested as they wrought, and had their pride of skill ; the architect, and the lord for whose praise he fashioned these stones ; the villagers that won- dered as they looked upon the growing pile; why, they are now no more to men's memories than the grass they trod on, or the leaves which they cast down in felling the oak ! Against these stones on which I lay my hand, have rung the sounds of battle. Yonder, on these very grounds, there raged, in sight of men that stand where WARWICK CASTLE. 21 I do, fiercest and deadliest conflicts. All this ground has fed on blood. I walked across to Guy's Tower, up its long stone stairway, into some of its old soldiers' rooms. The pavements were worn, though of stone, with the heavy grinding feet of men-at-arms. I heard them laugh be- tween their cups, I saw them devouring their gross food, I heard them recite their feats, or tell the last news of some knightly outrage, or cruel oppression of the despised laborer. I stood by the window out of which the archer sent his whistling arrows. I stood by the openings through which scalding water or mol- ten lead were poured upon the heads of assailants, and heard the hoarse shriek of the wretched fellows from below as they got the shocking baptism. I ascended to the roof of the tower, and looked over the wide glory of the scene, still haunted with the same imaginations of the olden time. How many thoughts had flown hence beside mine! — here where warriors looked out, or ladies watched for their knight's return. How did I long to stand for one hour, really, in their position and in their consciousness, who lived in those days ; and then to come back, with the new experience, to my modern self! I walked, in a dream, along the line of the westward wall, surveyed the towers begun, but, for some reason, left unfinished ; climbed up the moat and keep, steep enough, and densely covered with trees and underbrush, to the very top. Grand and glorious were the trees that waved in the t 22 RIDE TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON. grounds about the castle; but, though some of them had seen centuries, they were juvenile sprouts in comparison of these old walls and towers, on which William the Conqueror had walked, without thinking a word about me, I'll warrant — in which matter I have the advantage of him — following in his footsteps along the top of the broad walls, ten times more lofty in my transcendent excitement than ever was he in his royal excursion. Already the sun was drooping far down the west, and sending its golden glow sideways through the trees ; and the glades in the park were gathering twilight as I turned to give a last look at these strange scenes. I walked slowly through the gateway, crossed the bridge over the moat, turned and looked back upon the old towers, whose tops reddened yet in the sun, though I was in deep shadow. Then, walking backward, looking still, till I came to the woods, I took my farewell of Warwick Castle. It was half-past six when I left the hotel for Stratford- on-Avon. Can you imagine a more wonderful trans- ition than from the baronial castles to the peaceful village of Stratford? Can there possibly be a more utter contrast than between the feelings which exercise one in the presence of the memorials of princely estates — knightly fortresses, scenes full of associations of phys- ical prowess — -jousts and tournaments, knights and nobles, kings and courtiers, war and sieges, sallies, de- feats or victories, dungeons and palaces now all alike in confused ruins, and the peaceful, silver Avon, with its little village of Stratford snugged down between RIDE TO STI.'AT FORD-ON- A VON. 23 smoothly rounded hills ; all of whose interest centers upon one man — gentle Shakspeare ? And what do you think must be the condition of a man's mind who in one day, keenly excited, is entirely possessed and almost de- mented by these three scenes ? The sun had not long set as I drove across the bridge of Avon, and stopped at the Eed Horse Inn. As soon as I could put my things away, the first question asked was for Henley Street, It was near. In another moment I was there, looking, upon either side, for Shakspeare's house, — which was easily found without inquiry. I examined the kitchen where he used to frolic, and the chamber in which he was born, with an interest which surprised me. That I should be a hero-worshiper — a relic-monger, was a reve- lation indeed. Now guess where I am writing ? You have the place in the picture before you.* It is the room where Shak- speare was born 1 Two hundred and eighty-six years ago, in this room, a mother clasped her new-born babe to her bosom ; perhaps on the very spot where I am writing! Do you see the table on the right side of the picture ? It is there I am sitting. The room is rep- resented as it was before it passed into the hands of the Shakspearian society. There are now no curtains to the window which you see, and which looks out from the front of the house into the street ; nor are there any pic- tures ; but the room, with the exception of the two side * This letter was written upon pictorial note-paper containing views in and about Stratford. 24 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. tables and a few old chairs, is bare, as it should be; leaving you to the consciousness that you are surrounded only by that which the eyes of the child saw when he began to see at all. The room is about fifteen feet wide by eighteen in length. The hight is not great. I can easily touch the ceiling with my hand. An uneven floor of broad oaken plank rudely nailed, untouched, probably, in his day, by mat or carpet. The beams in this room, as also throughout the house, are coarsely shapen, and project beyond the plaster. The original building, owned by Shakspeare's father, has been so changed in its exterior, that but for the preservation of a view taken in 1769, we should have lost all idea of it. It was, for that day, an excellent dwelling- house for a substantial citizen, such as his father is known to have been. It was afterwards divided into three tenements, the center one remaining in possession of Shakspeare's kindred, who resided there until 1646. And it is this portion that is set apart for exhibi- tion ; — the sections on either side of it having been intolerably "improved" with a new brick front, by the enterprising landlord of the " Swan and Maiden- head Inn," about 1820! Its exterior has grown rude since Shakspeare's time, for the old print rep- resents a front not unpleasing to the eye, with a gable and a bay window beneath, two dormer win- dows, and three-light latticed windows upon the ground story. The orchard and garden which were in its rear when purchased by Shakspeare's father, are gone, and their place is occupied by dwellings and STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 25 stables. There is not a spot for even a shrub to grow in! I shall spend a portion of three days at Stratford-on- Avon; and I have made a treaty with the worthy woman who keeps the premises, by which I can have free use of the room where I now write. Never have I had such a three days' experience ! Kenil worth, Warwick, and Stratford-on- Avon, all in one day ! Then I am to spend a Sabbath here ! I can neither eat nor sleep for ex- citement. If my journey shall all prove like this, it will be a severer taxation, to recruit than to stay at home and labor. This room, its walls, the ceiling, the chimney front and sides, the glass of the window, are every inch covered and crossed and re-crossed with the names of those who have visited this spot. I notice names of distinction noble and common, of all nations, mingled with thousands of others known only to the inscribers. In some portions of the room the signatures overlay each other two or three deep. I felt no desire to add my name, and must be content to die without having written any thing on the walls of the room where Shakspeare was born. I must confess, how- ever, to a little vanity — if vanity it be. A book is open for names and contributions to enable the Committee for the preservation of Shakspeare's house to complete the payment of the purchase money. I did feel a quiet satis- faction to know that I had helped to purchase and pre- serve this place. Strange gift of genius, that now, after nearly three hundred years, makes one proud to con 2 26 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. tribute a mite to perpetuate in its integrity the very room where the noble babe was born ! But I am exhausted and must sleep, if sleep I can To-morrow will be my first Sabbath in England — and that Sunday at Stratford-on-Avon 1 II. A SABBATH AT STRATFORD-ON-AVON". August ^ih, 1850. My dear : If you have read, or will read, my letter to , you will see what a wonderful day was Saturday. Coventry, famous for the legend of Godiva, of which Tennyson has a pretty version ; the ruins of Kenil worth Castle, the stately castle of Warwick and its park, and Stratford-on-Avon, all in one day ! Do you wonder that my brain was hot and my sleep fitful that night? 1 tossed from side to side, and dreamed dreams. It was long after midnight before I began to rest, free from dreams; but the sleep was thin, and I broke through it into waking, every half hour. It was broad daylight when I arose ; the sun shone out in spots ; masses of soft, fleecy clouds rolled about in the heaven, making the day even finer than if it had been all blue. I purposed attending the village church, in the morning, where Shakspeare was buried ; in the afternoon at Shottery, a mile across the fields, where the cottage in which lived Anne Hathaway, his wife, still stands ; and in the evening, at the church of the Holy Cross, adjoining the Grammar School ; in which, as the school about that time was open, and for a period kept, it is probable that Shakspeare studied. Never, in all the labors of a life not wont to be idle upon the Sabbath, have I known such excitement or 28 A SABBATH AT STRATFORD-ON-AVON. such exhaustion. The scenes of Saturday had fired me ; every visit to various points in Stratford-on-Avon added to the inspiration, until, as I sallied forth to church, I seemed not to have a body. I could hardly feel my feet striking against the ground ; it was as if I were numb. But my soul was clear, penetrating, and ex- quisitely susceptible. You may suppose that every thing would so breathe of the matchless poet, that I should be insensible to re- ligious influences. But I was at a stage beyond that. The first effect, last night, of being here, was to bring up suggestions of Shakspeare from every thing. I said to myself, this is the street he lived in, this the door he passed through, here he leaned, he wandered on these banks, he looked on those slopes and rounded hills. But I had become full of these suggestions, and acting as a stimulus, they had wrought such ; n ecstatic stale. that my soul became exquisitely alive to every influ- ence, whether of things seen, or heard, or thought of. The children going to church, how beautiful they ap- peared 1 How good it seemed to walk among so many decorous people to the house of God. How full of mu- sic the trees were ; music, not only of birds, but of winds waving the leaves ; and the bells, as they were ringing, rolled through the air a deep diapason to all other sounds. As I approached the church, I perceived that we were to pass through the churchyard for some little distance; and an avenue of lime trees meeting overhead formed a beautiful way, through which my soul exulted to go up to A SABBATH AT BTRA.TFORD-ON'-AVON. 29 the house of God. The interior was stately and beauti f'ul ii was to me, ami I am not describing any thing bo von as it was, but am describing myself while in the presence of scenes with which through books you are familiar. As I sat down in a, pew close liy the reading- desk and pulpit, I looked along lo the elunerl, which Stretched some fifty or sixty feel, hack vi' the pulpit and desk, and saw, upon the wall, flu" welkknown bust of Shakspeare; ami I knew that- beneath the pavement under that, his dust reposed. In a tew minutes, a, little fat. man with :i red collai and red eulVs, advanced from a side room behind the pulpit and led the way for the rector, a man of about fifty years — bald, except on the sides of his head, which were covered with white hair. 1 had been anxious lest some Cowper's ministerial fop should officiate, and the sight o\' this aged man was good. The lorni of his face and head indicated firmness, but his features were suffused with an expression of benevolence, lie ascended the reading- desk, and the services began. You know my mother was, until her marriage, in the eommunion of the Kpis- COpal Church. This thought hardly left me while I sat, grateful for the privilege of worshiping God through a service that had expressed so often her devotions. I Call U01 tell you how much I was affected. I had never had such a, Iranee of worship, and I shall never ha\e such another view until I gain The (late. 1 am so ignoranl of the church service that, 1 can not call the various parts by their right names; hut tho portions which most affected me were the prayers and 30 A SABBATH AT STRATFORD-ON-AVON. responses which the Choir sang. I had never heard any part of a supplication — a direct prayer, chanted by a choir ; and it seemed as though I heard not with my ear, but with my soul. I was dissolved — my whole being seemed to me like an incense wafted gratefully toward God. The Divine presence rose before me in wondrous majesty, but of ineffable gentleness and goodness, and I could not stay away from more familiar approach, but seemed irresistibly, yet gently, drawn toward God. My soul, then thou did'st magnify the Lord, and rejoice in the God of thy salvation ! And then came to my mind the many exultations of the Psalms of David, and never before were the expressions and figures so noble and so necessary to express what I felt. I had risen, it seemed to me, so high as to be where David was when his soul conceived the things which he wrote. Through- out the service, and it was an hour and a quarter long, whenever an " Amen " occurred, it was given by the choir, accompanied by the organ and the congregation. 0, that swell and solemn cadence rings in my ear yet ! Not once, not a single time did it occur in that service from beginning to end, without bringing tears from my eyes. I stood like a shrub in a spring morning — every leaf covered with dew, and every breeze shook down some drops. I trembled so much at times, that I was obliged to sit down. O, when in the prayers breathed forth in strains of sweet, simple, solemn music, the love of Christ was recognized, how I longed then to give utterance to what that love seemed to me. There was a moment in which the heavens seemed opened to me, A SABBATH AT STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 31 and I saw the glory of God 1 All the earth seemed to me a storehouse of images, made to set forth the Re- deemer, and I could scarcely be still from crying out. I never knew, I never dreamed before, of what heart there was in that word amen. Every time it swelled forth and died away solemnly, not my lips, not my mind, but my whole being said — Saviour, so let it be. The sermon was preparatory to the Communion, which I then first learned was to be celebrated. It was plain and good ; and although the rector had done many things m a way that led me to suppose that he sympathized with over much ceremony, yet in his sermon he seemed evangelical, and gave a right view of the Lord's Supper. For the first time in my life I went forward to commune in an Episcopal Church. Without any intent of my own, but because from my seat it was nearest, I knelt down at the altar with the dust of Shakspeare beneath my feet. I thought of it, as I thought of ten thousand things, without the least disturbance of devotion. It seemed as if I stood upon a place so high, that, like one looking over a wide valley, all objects conspired to make but one view. I thought of the General Assembly and Church of the First Born, of my mother and brother and children in heaven, of my living family on earth, of you, of the whole church intrusted to my hands ; — they afar off — I upon the banks of the Avon. In the afternoon 1 walked over to Shottery, to attend worship there, but found that I had been misinformed, and that there was no church or service there. 1 soon found the cottage where Shakspeare's wife, Anne Hath- 82 A SABBATH AT STRATFORD-ON-AVON. away, was born, but stayed only for a little time, mean- ing to visit it more at my leisure on Monday. I hastened back, hoping to reach the village church in Stratford in season for part of the service, but arrived just in time to meet the congregation coming out. I turned aside to the churchyard which surrounds the church on every side. As I stood behind the church on the brink of the Avon, which is here walled up to the hight of some eight feet, looking now at the broad green meadows be- yond, and now at a clump of " forget-me-nots" growing wild down at the water's edge, and wondering how I should get them to carry back to my friends, I was ac- costed by a venerable old man, whose name I found afterwards to be T . He was not indisposed to talk, and I learned that he was eighty-one years of age ; had lost his father in America during our revolutionary war, where he had been a soldier ; he remembered the sad tidings, being then eleven years old ; he had resided at Stratford for thirty years ; he was a turner and carver by trade ; he had lately buried his wife, and had come after service to visit her grave. We walked together along the banks of the Avon, he repeating some familiar lines of poetry. He gave me various local information of interest. Among other things, that the vicar was but recently come among them ; that he seemed to him very " whimsical," for, said he, " he has got a new brass thing to hold his Bible, down in front of the reading-desk; and he stands sometimes with his back to the people when reading parts of the service, and has a good many scholarly tricks about him, as it seems to me." I for- STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 33 bore making any remarks, not wishing to disturb the associations of the morning. We crossed the stream by a bridge, walked up through the broad, smooth, turfy meadows upon the other side, and on reaching my inn, I pressed him to come in and take tea with me. I did so, in part from interest in him, and in part because he had mentioned, when I apologized for using his time in so long a walk, that his only remaining daughter was gone out to tea, and he did not care to go home and be alone. So we took tea together ; after which he proposed waiting upon me to the Church of the Holy Cross, where evening services were then commencing. The interior of the church was plain ; and its age and its connection with Shakspeare constituted its only interest to me. I feel greatly obliged to the venerable old man, whose heart seemed guileless and whose mind was simple. This only acquaintance that I have made in Stratford takes nothing away from the romantic interest of my experience here. Monday, August 5, 1850. — As I was sitting this morning after breakfast writing busily, my venerable friend T came in to bid me good-morning, and to bring me a relic, a piece of the mulberry tree which stood in Shakspeare's garden, but which was cut down by its after owner, he being. much annoyed by relic- hunters. He finally destroyed the house itself. The old man also gave me a snuff-box which had been made years and years ago, either from the wood of this same tree, or from a tree sprung from the original. He avers 34 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. that it was from the original tree ; that he obtained it from the former turner, as a model by which to turn boxes, and that he was assured that it was of the real, orthodox, primitive mulberry tree ! I do not doubt it. I will not doubt. What is the use of destroying an innocent belief so full of pleasure ? If it is not a genu- ine relic, my faith shall make it so. One or Two Hours Later. — Alas ! I've been out, and among other inquiries, have asked after my old friend T . I find him to be living in the poorhouse ! At first, I confess to a little shame at intimacy with a pauper ; but in a moment I felt twice as much ashamed that for a moment I had felt the slightest repugnance toward the old man on this account. I rather believe his story of the tree and the box to be true ; at any rate, I have a mulberry snuff-box which I procured in Strat- ford-on- Avon !' Among the many things which I determined to see and hear in England were the classic birds, and espe- cially the thrush, the nightingale and the lark ; after these I desired to see cuckoos, starlings and rooks. While in Birmingham, going about one of the manufactories, I was inquiring where I might see some of the first- named. The young man who escorted me pointed across the way to a cage hanging from a second-story window and said, " There's a lark !" Sure enough, in a little cage and standing upon a handful of green grass, stood the little fellow, apparently with russet brown wings and lighter colored breast, ash color, singing away to his own great comfort and mine. The song reminded me, in BIRDS OF STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 35 many of its notes, of the canary bird. In my boyhood, I had innocently supposed that the lark of which I read when first beginning to read in English books, was our meadow lark ; and I often watched in vain to see them rise singing into the air ! As for singing just beneath "heaven's gate" or near the sun, after diligent observa- tion, with great simplicity, I set that down for a pure fancy of the poets. But I had before this learned that the English sky-lark was not our meadow-lark. A bird in a cage is not half a bird ; and I determined to hear a lark at Stratford-on-Avon, if one could be scared up. And so, early this morning I awoke, ac- cording to a predetermination, and sallied out through the fields to a beautiful range of grounds called " Wel- cornbe." I watched for birds and saw birds, but no larks. The reapers were already in the wheat fields, and brought to mind the fable of the lark who had reared her young there. Far over, toward the Avon, I could see black specks of crows walking -about, and picking up a morsel here and there in the grass. I listened to one very sweet song from a tree near a farm-house, but it was unfamiliar to my ear ; and no one was near from whom I might inquire. Besides, the plain laboring people know little about ornithology, and would have told me that "it is some sort of a singing bird," as if 1 thought it were a goose ; and so I said to myself, I've had my labor for my pains ! Well, I will enjoy the clouds and the ribbon strips of blue that interlace them. I must revoke my judgment of the English trees ; for as I stood looking over upon the masses of foliage, and the 36 SHOTTERY. single trees dotted in here and there, I could see every shade of green, and all of them most beautiful, and as refreshing to me as old friends. After standing awhile to take a last view of Stratford-on-Avon, from this high ground, and the beautiful slopes around it, and of the meadows of the Avon, I began to walk homeward, when I heard such an outbreak behind me, as wheeled me about quick enough ; there he flew, singing as he rose, and rising gradually, not directly up, but with gentle slope — there was the free singing lark, not half so happy to sing as I was to hear ! In a moment more, he had reached the summit of his ambition, and suddenly fell back to the grass again. And now, if you laugh at my enthusiasm, I will pity you for the want of it. I have heard one poet's lark, if I never hear another, and am much happier for it. If you will wait a moment or two, till I can break- fast, you shall have the benefit of a stroll over to Shot- tery — a real old English village. I walked over there yesterday afternoon, to church, as I told you, and so can show you the way without inquiring it three times, as I did then. Emerging from the village, we take this level road, lined on either side with hedges and trees ; trees not with naked stems, but ruffled from the hedge to their limbs with short side brush, which gives them a very beautiful appearance. The white clover-turf under foot is soft as velvet ; men are reaping in the fields, or going past us with their sickles. "We have walked about a mile, and here is a lane turning to the left, and a guide-board pointing to " Shottery." I see SHOTTERY. 37 the village. A moment's walk brings us to a very neat little brick, gothic cottage, quite pretty in style, and painted cream color; it is covered with roses and fra- grant flowering vines, which make the air delicious. By the gate is a Champney rose — the largest I ever saw — its shoots reaching, I should think, more than twelve feet, and terminated with clusters of buds and open roses, each cluster having from fifty to a hundred buds. Yes- terday afternoon, as I passed this same cottage, I stopped to admire this rose, and to feed upon the delicious per- fume which exhaled from the grounds. A lady, appar ently about forty-five, and two young women about eighteen and twenty years of age respectively, seeing a stranger, approached the gate. I bowed and asked, " Is this a Champney rose?" "It is a Noisette, sir!" " I thought so ; a Champney of the Noisette family ! Will you tell me what flower it is that fills the air with such odor ?" " I don't know ; it must be something in the gar- den." " "Will you be kind enough to tell me the way to Anne Hathaway's cottage ?" " Take the first lane to the left," said the eldest young woman, pointing to the right. " The lane on the right, you mean." " Oh }^es, on the right, but I do not know where the cottage is exactly !" and yet it lay hardly two good stone-casts from where they stood. You can see its smoke from the windows. Did they not know, or were 38 ANNE HATHAWAY. they ashamed to seem too familiar with a stranger? But William Shakspeare, eighteen years old as he was, had no need of asking his way, as he came by here of a Sabbath evening ! What were the thoughts of such a mind drawing near to the place which now peeps out from the trees across the field on the right? What were the feelings of a soul which created such forms of love in after days ? I look upon the clouds every mo- ment changing forms, upon the hedges or trees, along which, or such like, Shakspeare wandered, with his sweet Anne, and marvel what were the imaginations the strifes of heart, the gushes of tenderness, the san- guine hopes and fore-paintings of this young poet's soul. For, even so early, he had begun to give form to thai which God created in him. One cannot help thinking of Olivia, Juliet, Desdemona, Beatrice, Ophelia, Imogen, Isabella, Miranda ; and wondering whether any of his first dreams were afterward borrowed to form these. It is not possible but that strokes of his pencil, in these and other women of Shakspeare, reproduced some fea- tures of his own experience. Well, I imagine that Anne was a little below the medium hight, delicately formed and shaped, but not slender, with a clear smooth fore- head, not high, but wide and evenly filled out ; an eye that chose to look down mostly, but filled with sweet confusion every time she looked up, and that was used more than her tongue ; a face that smiled oftener than it laughe !. i;ut so smiled that one saw a world of bright- ness within, as of a lamp hidden behind an alabaster shade ; a carriage that was deliberate but graceful and SHAKSFEAKE. 39 elastic. This is my Anne Hathaway. Whether it was Shakspeare's I find nothing in this cottage and these trees and verdant . hedges to tell me. The birds are singing something about it — descendants doubtless of the very birds that the lovers heard, strolling together ; but I doubt their traditionary lore. I did not care to go in. There are two or three tenements in the long cottage as it now stands ; but the middle one is that to which pilgrims from all the world do come ; and though it was but a common yeoman's home, and his daughter has left not a single record of herself, she and her home are immortal, because hither came the lad Shakspeare, and she became his wife. I leaned upon this hedge yesterday afternoon, it being the Sabbath, and looked long at the place, and with more feelings than thoughts, or rather with thoughts that dissolved at once into feel- ings. Here are the rudest cottages ; scenery, beautiful indeed, but not more so than thousands of other places ; but men of all nations and of every condition, the mingled multitude of refined men are thronging hither, and dwell on every spot with enthusiasm unfeigned. Whatever Shakspeare saw, we long to see ; what he thought of, we wish to think of; where he walked, thither we turn our steps. The Avon, the church, the meadows lying over beyond both ; the street and the room where he was born ; — all have a soul imbreathed upon them, all of them are sacred to us, and we pass as in a dream amid these things. The sun, the clouds, the trees, the birds, the morning and evening, moonlight or twilight or darkness, none of them here have a nature 40 SHAKSPEARE. of their own ; all of tliem are to us but memorials or suggestions of Shakspeare. God gave to man this power to breathe himself upon the world ; and God gave us that nature by which we feel the inspiration. Is this divine arrangement exhausted in man's earthly history ? Are we not to see and to know a sublime development of it when we come to a knowledge of God himself, face to face ? Then, not a hamlet alone, a few cottages, a stream or spire will be suggestive ; but throughout the universe, every crea- ture and every object will breathe of God. Not of his genius, as Stratford-on-Avon speaks of Shakspeare ; but of every trait of character, every shade of feeling, every attribute of power ; of goodness, love, mercy and gen- tleness, magnanimity, exquisite purity, taste, imagina- tion, truth and justice. May we know this revelation ; walk amid those scenes of glory, and know the rapture of feeling God effulge upon us from everything which his heart has conceived, or his hand fashioned ! But chiefly may we see that noontide glory when we shall gaze unabashed upon his unobstructed face. III. OXFORD. Dear . Did I ever dream of writing you from this renowned seat of learning, memorable in history, the residence of good King Alfred, the birthplace of Richard Cceur de Lion, the burning place of Latimer, Ridley, and Cranmer, and the place where many among the greatest historical men were educated ? But I must go back a little, for I believe I have said nothing in either of my letters to others, of my route hither. I send you a forget-me-not which was gathered from the edge of the river Avon, just beneath the wall which divides the face of the churchyard from the water. These little beauties awakened me from a dream by their meek looks, and I determined to send this one to you. To climb down the wall was easy enough, too easy for a man who did not love wetting. I cast about for expedients. For, you must know that the river washes Lhe very wall, and that a little bit of soil, scarcely a foot across, had formed in one spot and proclaimed its tri- umph by wearing these tufts of flowers for its feather. I studied the wall, speculated upon my relative position to the water and flowers, should I reach such and such a chink. I partly climbed down, and wholly clam- bered back again, satisfied that it was easier to get my- self in, than to get the flowers out. My courage rose 42 OXFORD. with the difficulty. Have them now I would, if I wa3 obliged to swim for them. I walked down to the mill, a little below, and, crossing over, returned up the other bank, opposite to them. They seemed to my wistful looks further off than ever. Happily, before attempt- ing the Hellespont, Hero-like, I espied someway up the Avon, a boat in charge of two young men, and easily en- gaged them to put me across to the coveted treasure. Though very rough in their exterior, the fellows had some heart ; and when they saw what I would be at, they took great pains not to crush the gems with the bow of the boat, and quite eagerly helped me to gather every stalk. You know the story of this flower and its name? A knight, walking in his armor, with his lady-love, attempted, at her wish, just such a feat as I had declined, — for the want of his motive. While reaching down for the flowers he slipped, and was plunged into the deep stream, hopelessly weighed down by his armor. As he sank he threw the flowers toward the bank, crying, " Forget me not." The morning on which I mounted the coach-top for Oxford was bright. The heavens were beautiful, and the earth was beautiful. The past was grateful to recol- lection ; the future was hopeful. Indeed, I was in har- mony with everything — with the driver, the passengers, the horses, the fields with their herds, the trees and hedges. To be sure, I maintained a grave and reserved exterior, all the way ; but my heart laughed and sung at every step. We rode through Woodstock, and passed by Blenheim, the seat of the Duke of Marl- OXFORD. 43 borough. I could not gratify my wish to go over the grounds and house, as it chanced not to be one of the days on which visitors are allowed. In drawing near to Oxford, I felt the zeal going up m the thermometer ; and dusky shadows of olden his- tories began to arise. I had a distinct picture of the place in my mind, at least of the University. I im- agined it to be a group of buildings, say eight or ten in number, opening upon a common court, not unlike the cotton-factory style of architecture which prevails in New-England Colleges. I had no very distinct idea of their number or extent, but a clear impression, that, more or fewer, they were grouped together upon some one spot. Accordingly, I inquired with innocent simplicity of a gentleman next to me, in what part of the town the Um versity buildings were, and was answered promptly, " In every part ; they are scattered all over the city." Imagine, then, a city of 25,000 inhabitants, not with narrow streets, and continuous stone houses and shops, like commercial cities ; nor yet, like a rural city, full of yards and gardens; but something distinct from either, and peculiar — a city of castles and palaces ! The University comprises twenty distinct Colleges, and five Halls. The Colleges are incorporated ; pos- sessing their own rights, buildings, grounds, revenues, laws, and officers. The Halls are not incorporated, or endowed with estates ; but, in other respects, are not materially different from the Colleges. Here, then, are twenty-five suites of buildings distributed throughout 44 OXFORD UNIVERSITY. the city. You must not for a moment imagine a strait- sided, bald, rectangular, five-story building. Exorcise all such, brick parallelograms from your thoughts ; and call up instead images of castles, palaces, ornate galleries, and atheneums; and that too of the most imposing dimensions. The buildings of Magdalen College cover eleven acres ; and of gardens and dec- prated grounds, there are one hundred acres more ! Christ Church College is much more extensive than this. You would suppose yourself under the battle- ments of an old warlike castle. The front line of wall is four hundred feet, with turrets, bastions, and a huge octagonal tower for a gateway. The College buildings are arranged in systems of quadrangles, called familiarly quads. Thus a central plat of ground is inclosed on every side by the magnificent and continuous College struc- tures, running four hundred by about two hundred and sixty feet; and this forms the Great Quadrangle. A huge gateway opens out of this into another such quad- rangle, named the Peckwater, but of less dimensions; and the Canterbury Quadrangle, again, opens out of this. The buildings are of different styles of architecture. In- deed, Christ Church College represents almost the history of architecture, from the times of the Saxons to Sir Christopher Wren. And the diversities and contrasts of architecture increase the impression of vastness and end- less extent. Now, although Christ Church College and Magdalen College are the most extensive, yet, to an eye not ao THE COLLEGES. 45 customed to measurement, and whose lenses are some- what inclined to magnify through the bewildering ex- citement of novelty and surprise, the smallest seem scarcely less than the largest.- And you may conceive what impression would be made upon my mind in my first walk, alone, at sunset and twilight, through a strange city, composed so largely of such magnificent palatial structures, in which had once dwelt and studied so many names most honorable and prominent in Eng- lish history. I left my inn almost at once after my arrival, and was glad to be alone : to be unquestioned : to go wherever chance took me ; to gaze on the differ- ent piles, as they came one after another, until the strangeness grew almost into enchantment! The twi- light as it gently settled down made tower and spire seem gigantic ; the dusky stones of the ancient structures re- ceded into illusory distances ; and the somber pedi- ments, which yet retained a slight silvery glow from the West, seemed lifted up to an incredible hight. By and by the buildings sunk into darkness and disap- peared, except where the now multiplying lights in some principal streets, threw another and scarcely less bewitching glare upon them. The same causes which invoked the imagination in respect to single buildings, in like manner produced an impression in respect to the extent of the city, which daylight could not have borne out. Bright and early the next day, I took an ante-pran- dial stroll. Every thing was changed. The same build- ings were different ; there was the soft, somber evening £6 THE COLLEGES effect in my memory, and the clear lines of accurate daylight in my eye ; and the old and new impressions disputed with each other. I had gained a pretty correct topographical knowledge of the city, and had, by my guide-book, identified several of the most noticeable Colleges before returning to breakfast.* It was my good fortune to be put in the charge of a young lawyer, by the good offices of the same stranger that had ridden with me upon the coach from Wood- stock, and at whose suggestion I had lodged at the Miter Inn. He was not only a fme-hearted, generous, and intelligent man, but had the advantage of knowing from boyhood all the under officers, janitors, stewards, butlers, etc., of the various Colleges. It was vacation, and the buildings were for the most part vacant. The frank and gay face of my guide seemed a charm to open doors seldom open to visitors. Had I come to Oxford to take an honorary degree, I should have failed to see much that was shown to me now. An inspec- * The following are the names, and dates of the founding, of the Colleges in the University of Oxford. The number of officers, members on founda- tions, and students, at the time we were there, was said to be more than five thousand. Merton College, founded 1264. University College, about 1249. Baliol College, about 1263. Exeter College, 1314. Oriel College, about 1326. Queen's College, 1340. New College, 1378. Lincoln College, about 1479. All Souls' College, 1437. Magdalen College, 1457. Brazen Nose College, 1509, named from the circumstance of a brazen nose 1 with a ring in it, swinging as a knocker on the Hall, whose site it oc- cupies, and whose name it also inherited. Corpus Christi College, 1516. Christ Church College, founded by Wolsey, 1524. Trinity College, 1564. St. John's College, 1557. Jesus' College, 1546. Wadham College, 1613 Pembroke College, . Worcester College, 1714. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. 47 tion of the kitchens, the butteries, the dining-halls, and a rehearsal of the habits of both students and professors, satisfied me that there was most excellent drill of the animal man, wnatever befell the moral and intellectual development. The plump, jovial, rubicund professors of cuisine were obligingly communicative, giving savory explanations of every thing that seemed strange to me. They courteously proffered me a complimentary mutton chop ; and gave me a knowing laugh when I declined beer and wine, as articles that I never employed. A thing more utterly inconceivable than a deliberate re- jection of good wine and beer could not be told to an Oxford butler. At Christ Church College kitchen, I was shown an enormous gridiron, nearly five feet square ; formerly used before the introduction of ranges. I could not but imagine a fancy heretic, broiling upon it, like a shrunk robin. They seemed hurt at the suggestion, assured me that it had never served such uses, and swung it aside by its chain which suspended it, as if the associa- tions of such a relic had been ungenerously offended. When we speak of Dining Halls, pray dismiss all modern halls or hotel saloons from your mind. Sum- mon up rather the noblest, cathedral-like apartment, of the highest architectural embellishments ; impressive by its very space, and hung, often profusely, with por- traits and pictures. You would suppose upon entering that you saw tables stretched in a gothic church, or in some vast library, or in some picture gallery. The Hall of Jesus College is thirty by sixty feet in dimensions, 48 CARVED STONE. with an arched ceiling, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. That of New College is seventy-eight by thirty- five feet. Wadham College Hall is eighty -two by thirty-five, and thirty-seven feet high. The Hall of Christ Church College is one hundred and fifty feet in length, forty feet wide, and fifty feet high, having about one hundred and twenty pictures upon its walls. These quite put to shame my ignoble ideas of College dining-halls ; — as the larders and butteries did the 'fare of College commons. These Colleges resemble Ameri- can institutions in the fact that they are resorts of stu- dents, that they have corps of tutors and professors, rooms and dormitories, libraries and halls ; but, a visitor wandering through them in vacation, would think them literary hotels, as in many respects they really are. One who has only seen the plain stone of American buildings, uncarved, and scarcely chiseled, will be struck with the carving and decorations in stone. The cornices were not wood painted like stone, but stone curled, and carved — as if in olden times cutting stones had been the easiest of all occupations. We are accus- tomed to decorations in paste, in wax, in plaster, in wood. We do not think it strange to see picture-frames wreathed with vines, or furniture sculptured into flowers and fruits ; but the time and expense required for working stone has forbid such ornaments in America, with the exception of execrable carving on lamentable grave- stones, that can not but keep alive a sense of pain, in the spectator, as long as they last. In Oxford, in all the Colleges and other public build- COLLEGE GROUNDS. 49 ings, uncarved stone would seem to be accounted as almost unseemly. The doorways, the window-sills and caps, the cornices, the capitals, the pediments, are pro- fusely decorated. Grotesque heads, lion's faces, satyrs, distorted human faces, birds, flowers, leaves, rosettes, seize upon every projection of the Gothic buildings. Where the buildings represented Greek architecture, they were decorated more severely, but with scarcely less profusion of carving. I was even more delighted with the grounds and walks, than with the twilight seclusion of the cloistered rooms. I sat down in the recess of a window, in one of the student's rooms, and looked out into an exquisite nook, with a large mound, not unlike some of our coni- cal hills in the rolling lands of the West, planted with shrubs and trees to the very top. Is there any thing more bewitching than to look up, beneath the branches of trees, upon the ascent of a hill ? The grass was like the pile of velvet, thick, even, deeply green, and with a crisp, succulent look, that made you feel that Nebu- chadnezzar had not so bad a diet after all. The grounds were laid out with parterres of flowers, clumps of trees, graveled walks artfully traced to produce the utmost illusion, vines, and upon every unsightly object, and along the stone fence, that glorious sheet of ivy that, everywhere in England, incases walls and towers in vegetable emerald. In these delicious coverts, birds hopped about in literary seclusion, or chatted with each other in musical notes, such as Jenny Lind might be supposed to sing to her sleeping cradle, or to a froliok- 3 50 LIBRARIES. ing child. It is a very paradise of seclusion. Noise seemed like an antediluvian legend as I sat and dreamed in the slumberous stillness. Nor was I flattered by the painful contrast which my memory supplied of American Colleges, with frigid rooms, without gardens or secluded walks, with grounds undecorated except by chips, ashes, and the dunk and molded droppings of paper, rags, and various frag- ments of nocturnal feasts, which may often be found beneath the windows, among rank and watery weeds, on the neglected side of College buildings, where every side is neglected. But, if all the stories told me be true, or the half of them, cloistered rooms are not neces- sarily productive of profound study, any more than cloistered cells of profound piety. The Fellows of the Colleges are unmarried men, who have suites of rooms, ample gustatory provision for the earthly man, and revenues for gentlemanly support, that they may give themselves utterly to study. And in many cases, study, that makes other men lean, is blessed to these fellows, even as was the simple pulse to the companions of Daniel. One can scarcely realize the treasures of literature and of art which are gathered into this city. Beside the libraries of each College, which are large, there is the Bodleian Library with books and manuscripts enough to turn the heads of the whole nation. Each College has in profusion, beside architectural treasure, busts and statues of distinguished men, pictures by all the great masters of art, in great numbers ; prints, coins, and ENDOWMENTS. 51 'literary and archaiological curiosities without number, and cabinets of natural history. I stood in the midst of such treasures as helpless and as hopeless of ever looking at them with a more individual recognition, as I was when I first trod a prairie, journeying from dawn till dark through the dwarf floral groves, and beheld millions of acres of flowers. I passed by rare treasures without a look, which, at another time, would have eagerly occupied hours. The mind was sated with literary riches. As I stood beneath the arches of Christ Church Col lege, I was impressed with the immortality of earthly influence when rightly embodied. Wolsey's designs for national education have gone through generations performing the noblest services, and perpetuating among men the blessings which his life and personal conduct failed to render to his fellows. His endowments have been noble, undying, undecaying. Nay, Time, that wastes monuments and plucks up the longest lived forests, has but consolidated his gifts to learning, and renewing their strength in every generation. They are stronger, more vigorous, with a surer hope of good for the future, than when in the freshness of their original youth. It were not an unworthy ambition to desire such posthumous influence, having one's name gratefully mentioned through hundreds of years, amidst scenes of learning, by the noblest spirits, who were deriving their very life from your benefaction I Every one, familiar with his own mind, knows how differently that subtile and mysterious agency works 52 PICTURES. within him, on different days. But I never felt the difference so strikingly as since I have been ranging through these historic places ; and I find that the keen, and fine excitement, which inevitably steals upon one in the walks and galleries of these venerable Colleges, is precisely of the kind favorable for the appreciation of pictures. They cease to be pictures. They are realities. The canvas is glass, and you look through it upon the scene represented as if you stood at a win- dow. Nay, you enter into the action. For, once pos- sessed with the spirit of the actors or of the scene, all that the artist thought lives in you. And if you are left, as I was once or twice, for an hour quite alone, in the halls, the illusion becomes memorable. You know the personages. You mingle in the action as an actor. You gaze upon the Apostles of Guido, and. it is not the ideal head that you see, but the character, the life, the career, extend in shadowy length before you. At last you are with them ! No longer do you look through the eighteen hundred years at misty shadows. The living men have moved down toward you, and here you are face to face ! I was much affected by a head of Christ ; not that it met my ideal of that sacred front, but because it took me in a mood that clothed it with life and reality. For one blessed moment I was with the Lord. I knew Him. I loved Him. My eyes [ could not close for tears. My poor tongue kept silence, but my heart spoke, and I loved and adored. The amazing circuit of one's thoughts in so short a period is wonderful. They circle round through all BODLEIAN LIBRARY. 53 the past, and up through the whole future, and both the past and future are the .present, and are one. For one moment there arose a keen anguish, like a shooting pang, for that which I was, and I thought my heart would break that I could bring but only such a nature to my Lord ; but in a moment, as quick as the flash of sunlight which follows the shadow of summer clouds across the fields, there seemed to spring out upon me, from my Master, a certainty of love so great and noble as utterly to consume my unworth, and leave me shin- ing bright ; a3nes, &c, &c. ; Indian and Chinese collections ; ma- chinery; and in particular the models of French ships, and the history, in models, of ship-building, not only from the keel to the last rope of rigging, but also of the progress of marine architecture from age to age. But this is only a thing aside. It has a vast collection of the great schools of painters ancient and modern. Each school has its saloons ; and they follow one after another until the mind reels and staggers under the be- fore unconceived and inconceivable riches ! No descrip- tion will impress you with the multitudinousness of this repository of art. All the streams of pictorial beauty seem, since the world began, to have flowed hither, and this is the ocean. I mean first to give you in some de- tail the states of my mind, as I now look back upon them ; and then I will take you with me into the gal- leries, and step by step I will soliloquize, or describe, or paint with my pen : — at least I shall fill out this inten- tion unless some new excitement bursting on me quite drives this purpose from the field. You have lost, or perhaps rather escaped, several descriptions and wonder- ful experiences in this way. For if I do not write al- most at once what I have to say, a new crop springs up and grows so rankly as quite to smother down the growth of yesterday. IMPEESSIONS. 59 The first feeling which overwhelmed me was that of surprise — profound wonder. It seemed as if all picture- admiration, before, had been of one sort, but this of another the clouds. He puts it into the atmosjihere. Every thing is then bathed and suffused with its glow. It is two hours since I wrote the above. My mind refused to reproduce in writing its thoughts long before it was too much wearied to enjoy. But now I am only half through the gallery, and am utterly exhausted. I can neither feel, think, nor look. There are Murillos, Titians, Carraccis, and others of equal note ; but I see only a vast wilderness of color, and the sense of beauty, jaded and sated, sinks under the burden. If you aver- age these saloons, each one is larger than the gallery of the New York Art Union (single saloon). There are forty-four saloons ! Five or six only are devoted to cabinets of coins, etc., and the rest to pictures ! Yet, nearly a half of the collection is shut up and can not be seen until the improvements are completed in the saloons where the pictures are to hang ! Only think of nearly eighty saloons of pictures classified into the French, Ital- ian, Flemish, German, English and Ancient Schools! But this does not include the basement, devoted to 76 DOVER CLIFFS. marble statuary, or the upper story devoted to marine models of ships, engines, etc., etc. Such is the Louvre ! Dover Cliffs, Friday morning, 7 o'clock, August 23, 1850. — I am sitting upon the very edge of these cliffs which Shakspeare has made memorable ! Dover lies at the base, and its sounds rise up to me through the long distance. The channel is spotted with sails — the sun shines mistily — the air is mild, and hardly a breath waves the harebells which grow round me. I pluck from the very edge of the cliff, where they have looked below and above, and felt every wind of sum- mer, three delicate flowers for you, for Shakspeare's sake and for my own. Four doves flying far up have just alighted near me on the brink ; had I their wings I would soon prove the ocean deeps', not of water but of ether ! 0, how sweet it is again to hear one's mother tongue, even when spoken by strangers ! I blessed even the everlasting waiter dunning me for fees, be- cause he asked in English, and overpaid him. But how could I have contained myself had the greeting been from tried friends ! Hastily snatching a morsel of food, needed after an all-night journey from Paris, I determine to stand a moment on the highest cliff — and to leave in my letter a little memorial of it. Imagine me standing up against the clear blue sky and waving my hand, as I do heartily, to you and yours, both a good morning and a farewell from Dover ! Good bye — I hasten down lest I lose the train — and with it my very amiable mood ! VI. LONDON NATIONAL GALLERY. London. We often suppose, in the heat and noise and weari- ness of the city, that could we find retirement among cool shades, amid flowers and trees, by brooks or airy mountains, we should rest. So we should if we could carry with us our friends, or else leave behind and forget our friendships! But even with our friends about us in the city, we are wearied by the noise and endless excitement. In seclusion, without our friends, we are soon wearied by the trouble that rises up within. But could friends go with us into the quiet of rural life, that were the highest reach of earthly happiness. The long discontinuance of regular occupation, pro- duces sadness and depression, by a sense of personal waste and worthlessness, which makes the day long and life almost a burden. I am less able to dispose of my Sabbaths than any other part of my time ; partly, because they are days that always bring up the remembrances of childhood to me — the days of stillness and brightness which used to visit me when young, in Litchfield, and possess me with visions and dreams, or reveries and imaginations, which I did not then understand. But, aside from these associations, the Sabbath, for more than fifteen years, has been a day of intense activity, of the highest mental and moral excitement. Now I am idle : 78 LONDON. I seem like a broken-stemmed flower that tlie river lias cast up on the bank, and that lies there, seeing the stream go past, but itself lying still. Or rather like a branch wrenched off from its stock, and drifted and drifting without aim or rest. I seem a useless thing. I quite envy men that have capacity to do anything. To be sure, I have a latent pride that would not al- low others to treat me as if they thought so too. But when I am by myself, or sauntering about the streets, or in church, I feel as if I were much like a thistle-down in a bright summer's day, that neither lifts up into the air nor settles down, but floats here and there as chance may blow it, — and no one will ask to-morrow (who saw it to-day), Where is it ? So that I find a man, out of his associations and life-connections, to be little better than an odd wheel of a machine, good for nothing without its fellows. Now, too, I am apt, if I do not fall asleep soon enough, — or more frequently when I wake, hours before it is the fashion here to get up, — to lie and think over my way of life hitherto ; and my life-work seems to me to have been so little and so poorly done, that I feel dis- couraged at the thought of resuming it! I have, everywhere, in my travelings, — at the shrine of the mar- tyrs in Oxford, at the graves of Bunyan and Wesley in London, at the vault in which Kaleigh was for twelve years confined in the Tower, asked myself whether 1 could have done and endured what they did, and as they did! It is enough to make one tremble for him- self, to have such a heart-sounding as this gives him. LONDON. 79 I cast the lead for the depth of my soul, and it strikes bottom so soon that I have little reason for pride. Had it not been for paintings, flowers, trees, and land- scapes, I do not know what I should have done with myself. Often, when extremely depressed, I have gone to the parks or out of the city to some quiet ground, where I could find a wooded stream, and the wood filled with birds, and found, almost in a moment, a new spirit coming over me. I was rid of men — almost of myself. I seemed to find a sacred sweetness and calmness, not com- ing over me but into me. I seemed nearer to Heaven. I felt less sadness about life, for God would take care of it ; and my own worthlessness, too, became a source of com- posure ; for, on that very account, it made little differ- ence in the world's history whether I lived or died. God worked, it seemed to me, upon a scale so vast and rich in details, that anything and anybody could be spared, and not affect the results of life. There is such a view of the sufficiency of God as to make your own littleness and feebleness a source of very true and grateful pleasure. What if this or that flower per- ishes, is the summer bereaved ? A single leaf plucked from the oak makes no difference. What if I should die abroad? A shock it would be to many, — but in a month's time only a few would feel it. In a year, and perhaps half-a-dozen only out of* the world's crew would have a thought or a sadness about it. The ship would sail merrily on. Yea, my own children, elastic with youth, would, soonest of any, grow past regret ; and the two or three who clung to the broken reed, 80 NATIONAL GALLERY. would themselves soon come on and greet me in Heaven ! How wisely is this so. There were no end to grief, and no room for joy, if we carried all the accumulated troubles of life with undiminished sensi- bility from year to year. First we bury friends, then time buries our grief. How often and often have I blessed God for the treasures and dear comforts of his natural world ! Shall I ever be grateful enough for Trees ! Yet, without doubt, better trees there might be than even the most noble and beautiful now. I suppose God has, in His thoughts, much better ones than he 'has ever planted on this globe. They are reserved for the glorious land. Beneath them may we walk ! National Gallery, London. I have now seen so many pictures, here and on the continent, by the greatest masters, ancient and modern, that my mind begins to inter-compare them. Every painter of note has a holy family — a Madonna, a Christ and John, a Crucifixion, a Descent from the Cross, and a Magdalen. Often, the same artist has several on t^e same subject: two I have see^ this morning, a Magdalen by Guido, in the British Insti- tution, and another is before me here, and a much finer one. In the fact that so many painters engage upon the same subject, I find a secondary pleasure of no small degiee, i. e. in comparing the pictures of each with the other. If I could only retain in my NATIONAL GALLERY. 81 mind all that I have seen, and have an interior gallery of the memory, it seems to me that I should be enriched for life. The finest head of a youthful Christ is one by Guido. He is apparently about fifteen or sixteen years of age. Without at all resembling those countenances which you see of Eaphael, he is yet of the same style of face. It is full of youth and love, calm yet vivacious, with a look of dignity that is to be. He is looking upon John (Baptist), who, with a swarthier and more rugged face, but suffused with reverence and love com- mingled, is gazing also upon Christ, and putting one hand upon his shoulder. There is another picture by Leonardo da Vinci, representing Christ disputing with the Doctors. It is only half-length, small, Christ's head and bust in the center, and two heads on each side. Christ is speak- ing apparently to you, and not to them, with his hands before him, the forefinger of his right hand upon the tip of the middle finger of his left, as if making a point of argument. The painting is beautiful, the expression exceedingly serene, soft, yet sagacious. Yet, it is nol Christ ; but one imagines that Guido's is, or might have been. Indeed, in almost all the heads of Christ which I have .seen, there is much to admire but nothing to satisfy. They are more than human, but not divine. They carry you up a certain distance, but then leave you unsatisfied. If they are majestic, they are stern; if severe, they are flat and expressionless ; if loving, they are effeminate. Many of them, by old masters, are absolutely shaggy and repulsive. There has been but 4* 82 NATIONAL GALLERY. one which I felt to be even an approximation; but I have, in the ocean of pictures, lost trace of it, and can - not recall the painter. You may well suppose that in Roman Catholic countries this subject would be univer- sally tried by the pencil. A very large gallery made up only of pictures of Christ might be collected ; and, on some accounts, it would not be a thing amiss. I have before me an admirable piece by Garcia — a dead Christ. He lies at full length across the knees of his mother, his lower extremities sustained by an angel, who, gazing at his feet, is evidently full of the past; his head is lovingly upheld by another angel, whose bright and almost smiling face is full of the future; while his mother wears the perfect expression of deep, inward, maternal anguish ; not the grief which outbursts, but the still grief which suffocates and kills. "S The face of Christ is very noble: it has the severest wisdom, a divine intelligence, a sweet, placid endurance. But it lacks that suffusion of love, from which all these other expressions should seem to spring. It is this that was true of Christ, and it is this that all pictures lack, y Love was the true nature of Christ. It was love that sent, that animated, that sustained him. Only because of his great loving did he become a man of sorrow. All other qualities must spring from that. That must be the atmosphere, and other expressions must be bathed in it. It is this very element that painters have failed to depict. It was not possible for it to be otherwise. The world's idea of Christ was crude and partial ; and the part which was entertained was magisterial. NATIONAL GALLERY. 83 Veneration — in an age of veneration, when worship was only or mostly reverential, and not through justifi- cation by a faith which works by love — naturally sought to produce a kingly head of the Saviour — a head that should express purity, wisdom, patience, loftiness. But these should have been the adjuncts of Love. There- fore, it not being so, I feel an aching want in the presence of every representation. The youthful Christ of Guido is the nearest to my wish, and will live in my remembrance. At times I can not but be deeply moved by these pic- tures of the Saviour. I seem really to stand in his presence. I feel overwhelmed with unworthiness. It seems as if my inmost soul 'were known to him, my secret sins were spread before him, and I hardly dared to look up. I know that he will forgive them — but •will he deliver me from them? It is not a want of faith in Christ for the past that I lack — but, O, that I might have a Christ who should assure me of rescue and purity in every period of life to come ! All my life I have seen what was holy, just and good ; and all my life, that which I would be is so far beyond what I am, and seemingly must be, that the struggle seems welt nigh useless, and Death is invoked as the only effectual deliverer. O ! what a riches of enjoyment must there be to those that have such galleries to resort to at leisure, and in all their different moods. It is impossible to be omni- mooded, and yet without this it is not possible to be in sympathy with all the subjects ; and unless you are you 84 NATIONAL GALLERY. can not rightly behold them. Could I come when sadness prevails, single out a few and feed upon them, — and come again when love and joy predominated, and select such as that inspiration craved, — and come again when feelings of reverence would make it easy to enter into the conceptions of old masters, and so on through • all the variations of the mind's estate, — how rich an addi- tion would such galleries be to the refined enjoyments of life. But now I am always hastening and always haunted with the feeling that I may never see them again ; that I must omit nothing which I should regret afterward ; and so one picture destroys another, and my mind, like a daguerreotype process, constantly inter- rupted, is not a gallery of distinct impressions, but for the most part a recess of gorgeous confusion. Yet I have reaped much. I shall be able to think many things and preach many things which otherwise had been impossible. Correggio. — His name was always familiar, but I nave learned to love his pictures. Before me is his " JEcce Homo," or Christ crowned with thorns, delivered up by Pilate. The painting, merely, is exquisite. The expression of Christ is that of weariness and drooping under suffering. It is too human. I do not see the God shining through and bearing up under sorrow. The Satan of Milton could endure ! And if we can not but admire the infernal heroism, how much more do we demand it to meet our conception of a God ! His mother, fainting, is falling into the arms of John. I had felt a contempt for this picture from having seen NATIONAL GALLERY. 85 some engravings of it, in which the face of Mary was pleasure-loving, almost voluptuous ; but in the painting it is that of intense love yet lingering on a mother's face in a swoon, and is rarely and exquisitely beautiful. How different, how violent the contrast between this and the next of his pieces and one of the finest of his pencil : Cupid instructed by Mercury under the aus- pices of Yenus. Nothing can be rounder, softer, and more beautiful than every figure here. Mercury is full of arch sagacity, as if inwardly laughing at what he is doing ; Cupid has the slyest mirth all over his face, as if almost ready to burst into laughter at the mischiefs in prospect, while Yenus at full length by his side, holding his bow, entirely nude, seems — I do not know how, neither arch_ nor mirthful, nor voluptuous, but all of them! Eubens. — There are here not a few specimens of the works of this artist. He was twice married, and his second wife he seems to have loved entirely, as she is forced into almost cv rty picture which contains a female face. Thus, in the decision of Paris, when he awarded the apple to the handsomest of all the goddesses, Yenus has his wife's face. In the fine allegorical picture of Peace and War, the centra 1 iigure is his wife. In the abduction of the Sa- bine women, a fine Eoman has had the luck to get his wife, the finest woman of the crowd. In that noble picture, the Brazen Serpent, the prominent female figure is his wife again ; and in the Holy Family he has paint- ed not only her again, but all his family. This fondness for his wife is amiable enough ; but it redounds to the 86 NATIONAL GALLERY. credit of his heart more than to the fertility of his fancy I soon am tired of his women. They are so well fed, and have so amazingly thriven on their food. They are not alone plump, but fat. Therefore you may im- agine that one less sensitive than I to the ridiculous would feel how ludicrous is one little thing of his en- titled an Apotheosis, in which the warrior, about to be- come divine, is lying all abroad in the air with his armor on, his booted feet sprawling wide apart, and himself sustained by five or six angelic forms, whose solidity makes the idea of floating even, still more of rising — and that too with such a dumpish jackanapes in tow — supremely laughable. Cuyp. — I have been particularly struck with the landscapes, both here and at Paris, of this artist, and had compared him to Claude in the margin of my cata- logue; and was pleased, this morning, at finding the same sentence in the descriptive catalogue of the Na- tional Gallery. I know so little about painting that when by any perception or sympathy I judge as I ought to, and as masters have done who both feel and know better than I, it certainly gives me pleasure. The portraits from the hand of Eembrandt and of Vandyke, are almost as interesting to look long at, as a group of figures or a landscape. I can not tell you, who have not seen them, what it is that arrests the eye, and fixes it upon a simple head, perhaps of an imaginary person. But if you were to see one, you would appre- ciate it. "When I read the criticisms of eminent artists, I per- VERNON GALLERY. 87 ceive how many things there are in painting of which I knew nothing — things which are known only by edu- cation — as in literature, the graces, the style, the deli- cate shades of thought, the richest beauties, are those which the untutored do not grasp, and which we appre- ciate only after long familiarity. Some few of these things I begin to find struggling for a birth in my mind ; and I have a feeling that, had I the opportunity, I could soon grow wise. But now, when I have the pictures, I have no leisure to read such works as would greatly assist me ; and by and by, when I have the leisure and the books, I shall not have the pictures ! "Well, one can not be everything ! Yet, at times, I rebel at the thoughts of how much in the world lies within the grasp of my industry, and yet that I should live a mere nothing ! I visited the Vernon collection also to-day. I do not by any means enjoy it as I do the National Gallery. Yet it possesses treasures, which at home would be counted precious wonders. I saw the originals of the engravings which have enriched the London Art-Union Journal for several years past. Nothing can exceed the minute accuracy of the paint- ing, or the very life and spirit of animals, to be found in Landseer's paintings. Fine as the engravings are, they no more express the merit of -the canvas, than the canvas expresses the actual vitality of dogs and deer. I was delighted with Wilkie's pictures ; for example, Reading the News, The Piper ; and, in the National Gal- lery, The Penny Wedding, The Blind Fiddler, The Vil- lage Festival, etc. 88 PAINTINGS. Such of Turner's pictures as I saw were utterly dis- pleasing to me. I rejoiced over Gainsborough, a copy of one of whose little landscapes, you will remember, I have. Ettey's paintings seemed all tinsel to me — skin — skin, without depth or thought, just such things on canvas as we find engraved in ladies' magazines for fashions. Ah, how I wished that I might own, or have within reach, the young female figures of Greuze — a French painter. I never saw such sweetness, innocence, and simplicity of character. They are not at all insipid, as innocence usually is, at least on canvas. Teniers and Ostade are names which are almost words of description with novelists and descriptive writers, and it was pleasant to me to see a few of their works. Such as I saw were very close and smooth imitations of natural objects. Poussin always seemed cold and stiff to me, and I could not persuade myself to look upon his pictures. They chilled me, or tended to check good spirits. As this lettt r is a sort of Charivari, I may as well stop my comment Upon pictures, and tell some of my rambles. I visited the graves of Wesley, Watson, and Adam Clarke ; and opposite to the yard where they lie, in Bunhill fields, the graves of Wesley's mother, of Dr. Owen, Dr. Watts, and, what was more than all to me, John Bunyan ! Think of the difference, in their day, of this poor tinker, and the notable bishops and lords. But now I feel insulted, or rather I feel worried and annoyed, to see the worthless names of men who were in their life great by the outside only or chiefly ; — while LONDON. 89 I feel inspired and blessed to stand by the spot which bears the names of such men as Bunyan and Wesley ! Such as they are the true men ! Their own day knew them not. The world could not know them until the breadth of their fame was developed by time. On yes- terday I visited Cripplegate church — in which Ben Jonson was married — Oliver Cromwell, also — where Fox, the martyrologist, is buried. But it was not for these that I went, but to have the privilege of standing upon the stone beneath which are the ashes of John Milton ! I found the street where he lived. The place on which his house stood was afterwards a bear garden, then a brewery, then a theater, then a Methodist chapel, and now is built again into dwelling-houses ! EXPEKIENCES OF NATURE. EXPERIENCES OF NATURE. I. A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. Happy is the man that loves flowers ! Happy, even if it be a love adulterated with vanity and strife. For human passions nestle in flower-lovers too. Some employ their zeal chiefly in horticultural competitions, or in the ambition of floral shows. Others love flowers as curiosities, and search for novelties, for "sports," and vegetable monstrosities. We have been led through costly collections by men whose chief pleasure seemed to be in the effect which their treasures produced on others, not on themselves. Their love of flowers was only the love of being praised for having them. But there is a choice in vanities and ostentations. A contest of roses is better than of horses. "We had rather be vain of the best tulip, dahlia, or ranunculus, than of the best shot. Of all fools, a floral fool deserves the eminence. But these aside, blessed be the man that really loves 94 A DISCO UESE OF FLOWERS. flowers! — loves them for their own sakes, for their beauty, their associations, the joy they have given, and always will give; so that he would sit down among them as friends, and companions, if there was not another creature on earth to admire or praise them I But such men need no blessing of mine. They are blessed of God ! Did He not make the world for such men ? Are they not clearly tae owners of the world, and the richest of all men ? It is the end of art to inoculate oaen with the love of nature. But thosf who ha* i a passion for nature in the natural way, need no pictur *s nor galleries. Spring is their designer, and the whole year their artist. He who only does not appreciate floral beauty is to be pitied like any other man who is born imperfect. It is a misfortune not unlike blindness. But men who contemptuously reject flowers as effeminate and unworthy of manhood, reveal a certain coarseness. Were flowers fit to eat or drink, were they stimulative of passions, or could they be gambled with like stocks and public consciences, they would take them up just where finer minds would drop them, who love them as revelations of God's sense of beauty, as addressed to the taste, and to something finer and deeper than taste, to that power within us which spiritualizes matter, and communes with God through His work, and not for their paltry market value. Many persons lose all enjoyment of many flowers by indulging false associations. There be some who think that no weed can be of interest as a flower. But all A DISCOUESE OF FLOWERS. 95 flowers are weeds where they grow wildly and abun- dantly ; and somewhere our rarest flowers are some body's commonest. Flowers growing in noisome places, in desolate corners, upon rubbish, or rank desolation, become disagreeable by association. Eoadside flowers, ineradicable, and hardy beyond all discouragement, lose themselves from our sense of delicacy and protection. And, generally, there is a disposition to undervalue common flowers. There are few that will trouble themselves to examine, minutely, a blossom that they have seen and neglected from their childhood ; and yet if they would but question such flowers, and commune with them, they would often be surprised to find extreme beauty where it had long been overlooked. If a plant be uncouth, it has no attractions to us simply because it has been brought from the ends of the earth and is a "great rarity;" if it has beauty, it is none the less, but a great deal more attractive to us, because it is common. A very common flower adds generosity to beauty. It gives joy to the poor, the rude, and to the multitudes who could have no flowers were nature to charge a price for her blossoms. Is a cloud less beautiful, or a sea, or a mountain, because often seen, or seen by millions ? At any rate, while we lose no fondness for eminent and accomplished flowers, we are conscious of a growing respect for the floral democratic throng. There is, for instance, the mullein, of but little beauty in each floweret, but a brave plant, growing cheerfully and heartily out of abandoned soils, ruffling its root about 96 A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. with broad-palmed, generous, velvet leaves, and erect- ing therefrom a towering spire that always inclines us to stop for a kindly look. This fine plant is left, by most people, like a decayed old gentleman, to a good- natured pity. But in other countries it is a flower, and called the " American velvet plant." We confess to a homely enthusiasm for clover, — not the white clover, beloved of honey-bees, — but the red clover. It holds up its round, ruddy face and honest head with such rustic innocence ! Do you ever see it without thinking of a sound, sensible, country lass, sun- browned and fearless, as innocence always should be ? We go through a field of red clover, like Solomon in a garden of spices. There is the burdock too, with its prickly rosettes, that has little beauty or value, except (like some kind, brown, good-natured nurses) as an amusement to chil- dren, who manufacture baskets, houses, and various marvelous utensils, of its burrs. The thistle is a prince. Let any man that has an eye for beauty take a view of the whole plant, and where will he see more expressive grace and symmetry ; and where is there a more kingly flower? To be sure, there are sharp objections to it in a boquet. Neither is it a safe neighbor to the farm, having a habit of scattering its seeds like a very heretic. But most gardeners feel toward a thistle as boys toward a snake; and farmers, with more reason, dread it like a plague. But it is just as beautiful as if it were a universal favorite. A DISCO UKSE OF FLOWERS. 97 "What shall we say of mayweed, irreverently called dog- fennel by some ? Its acrid juice, its heavy pungent odor, make it disagreeable ; and being disagreeable, its enormous Malthusian propensities to increase render it hateful to damsels of white stockings, compelled to walk through it on dewy mornings. Arise, scythe, and devour it ! The buttercup is a flower of our childhood, and very brilliant in our eyes. Its strong color, seen afar off, often provoked its fate ; for through the mowing-lot we went after it, regardless of orchard-grass and herd-grass, plucking down its long, slender stems crowned with golden chalices, until the father covetous of hay shouted to us, "Out of that grass! out of that grass I you rogue !" The first thing that defies the frost in spring is the chickweed. It will open its floral eye and look the thermometer in the face at 32° ; it leads out the snow- drop and crocus. Its blossom is diminutive: and no wonder, for it begins so early in the season that it has little time to make much of itself. But, as a harbinger and herald, let it not be forgotten. You can not forget, if you would, those golden kisses all over the cheeks of the meadow, queerly called ' dandelions. There are many green-house blossoms less pleasing to us than these. And we have reached through many a fence, since we were incarcerated, like them, in a city, to pluck one of these yellow flower drops. Their passing away is more spiritual than their bloom. Nothing can be more airy and beautiful than 5 98 A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. the transparent' seed-globe — a fairy dome of splendid architecture. As for marigolds, poppies, hollyhocks, and valorous sunflowers, we shall never have a garden without them, both for their own sake, and for the sake of old-fash- ioned folks, who used to love them. Morning-glories — or, to call them by their city name, the convolvulus — need no praising. The vine, the leaf, the exquisite vase-formed flower, the delicate and various colors, will secure it from neglect while taste remains. Grape blossoms and mignonnette do not appeal to the eye; and if they were selfish no man would care for them. Yet because they pour their life out in fragrance they are always loved, and, like h : ojnelv__^eojDl_e___3vilh noble hearts, they seem beautiful by association. No- thing that produces constant pleasure in us can fail to seem beautiful. We do not need to speak for that universal favorite — the rose ! As a flower is the finest stroke of -creation, so the rose is the happiest hit among flowers ! Yet, in the feast of ever blooming roses, and of double roses, we are in danger of being perverted from a love of simplicity, as manifested in .the wild, single rose. "When a man can look upon the simple, wild rose and feel no pleasure, his taste has been corrupted. But we must not neglect the blossoms of fruit-trees. What a great heart an apple-tree must have! What generous work it makes of blossoming ! It is not con- tent with a single bloom for each apple that is to be ; but a profusion, a prodigality of blossom there must be. A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. 99 The tree is but a huge boquet. It gives you twenty times as much as there is need for, and evidently because it loves to blossom. We will praise this virtuous tree. Not beautiful in form, often clumpy, cragged, and rude ; but it is glorious in beauty when efflorescent. Nor is it a beauty only at a distance and in the mass. Pluck down a twig and examine as closely as you will ; it will bear the nearest looking. The simplicity and purity of the white expanded flower, the half open buds slightly blushed, the little pink- tipped buds unopen, crowding up together like rosy children around an elder brother or sister, can any thing surpass it? Why here is a cluster more beau- tiful than any you can make up artificially even if you select from the whole garden! Wear this family of buds for my sake. • It is all the better for being com- mon. I love a flower that all may have ; that belongs to the whole, and not to a select and exclusive few. Common, forsooth! a flower can not be worn out by much looking at, as a road is by much travel. How one exhales, and feels his childhood coming back to him, when, emerging from the hard and hateful city streets, he sees orchards and gardens in sheeted bloom, — plum, cherry, pear, peach, and apple, waves and billows of blossoms rolling over the hill sides, and down through, the levels ! My heart runs riot. This is a kingdom of glory. The bees know it. Are the blossoms singing? or is all this humming sound the music of bees ? The frivolous flies, that never seem" to be thinking of any thing, are rather sober and solemn 100 A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. here. Such a sight is equal to a sunset, which is but a blossoming of the clouds. We love to fancy that a flower is the point of trans- ition at which a material thing touches the immaterial ; it is the sentient vegetable soul. We ascribe dispo- sitions to it ; we treat it as we would an innocent child. A stem or root has no suggestion of life. A leaf advances toward it; and some leaves are as fine as flowers, and have, moreover, a grace of motion seldom had by flowers. Flowers have an expression of coun- tenance as much as men or animals. Some seem to smile ; some have a sad expression ; some are pensive and diffident; others again are plain, honest, and up- right, like the broad-faced sunflower and the hollyhock. We find ourselves speaking of them as laughing, as gay and coquettish, as nodding and dancing. No man of sensibility ever spoke of a flower as he would of a fungus, a pebble, or a sponge. Indeed, they are more life-like than many animals. We commune with flowers — we go to them if we are sad or glad; but a toad, a worm, an insect, we repel, as if real life was not half so real as imaginary life. What a pity flowers can utter no sound! A singing rose, a whispering violet, a murmuring honeysuckle ! 0, what a rare and exquisite miracle would these be. When we hear melodious sounds, — the wind among trees, the noise of a brook falling down into a deep leaf-covered cavity — birds' notes, especially at night; children's voices as you ride into a village at dusk, far from your long absent home, and quite home-sick ; or A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. 101 a flute "heard from out of a forest, a silver sound rising up among silver-lit leaves, into the moon-lighted air; or the low conversations of persons whom you love, that sit at the fire in the room where you are conva- lescing ; — when we think of these things we are apt to imagine that nothing is perfect that has not the gift of sound. But we change our mind when we dwell lov- ingly among flowers; for, they are always silent Sound is never associated with them. They speak to you, but it is as the eye speaks, by vibrations of light and not of air. It is with flowers as with friends. Many may be loved, but few much loved. Wild honeysuckles in the wood, laurel bushes in the very regality of bloom, are very beautiful to you. But they are color and form only. They seem strangers to you. You have no memories reposed in them. They bring back nothing from Time. They point to nothing in the future. But a wild-brier starts a genial feeling. It is the country cousin of the rose ; and that has always been your pet. You have nursed it, and defended it ; you have had it for companionship as you wrote ; it has stood by your pillow while sick ; it has brought remembrance to you, and conveyed your kindest feelings to others. Yon remember it as a mother's favorite ; it speaks to you of your own childhood, — that white rosebush that snowed, in the corner, by the door; that generous bush that blushed red in the garden with a thousand flowers, whose gorgeousness was among the first things that drew your childish eye, and which always comes up 102 A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. before you when you speak of childhood. You re- member, too, that your mother loved roses. As you walked to church she plucked off a bud and gave you, which you carried because you were proud to do as she did. You remember how, in the listening hour of ser- mon, her roses fell neglected on her lap — and how you slyly drew one and another of them ; and how, when she came to, she looked for them under her handker- chief, and on the floor, until, spying the ill-repressed glee of your face, she smiled such a look of love upon you, as made a rose for ever after seem to you as if it smiled a mother's smile. And so a wild rose, a prairie rose, or a sweet-brier, that at evening fills the air with odor, (a floral nightingale whose song is perfume,) greets you as a dear and intimate friend. You almost wish to get out, as you travel, and inquire after their health, and ask if they wish to send any messages by you to their town friends. But no flower can be so strange, or so new, that a" • friendliness does not spring up at once between you. You gather them up along your rambles ; and sit down to make their acquaintance on some shaded bank with your feet over the brook, where your shoes feed their vanity as in a mirror. You assort them ; you question their graces ; you enjoy their odor ; you range them on the grass in a row and look from one to another ; you gather them up, and study a fit gradation of colors, and search for new specimens to fill the "degrees between too violent extremes. All the while, and it is a long while, if the day be gracious and leisure ample, various A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. 103 suggestions and analogies of life are darting in and out of your mind. This flower is like some friend ; another reminds you of mignonnette, and mignonnette always makes you think of suck a garden and mansion where it enacted some memorable part ; and that flower con- veys some strange and unexpected resemblance to cer- tain events of society ; this one is a bold soldier ; that one is a sweet lady dear ; — the white flowering blood- root, trooping up by the side of a decaying log, recalls to your fancy a band of white bannered knights; and so your pleased attention' strays through a thousand vagaries of fancy, or memory, or vaticinating hope. Yet, these are not home flowers. Yon did not plant them. You have not screened them. You have not watched their growth, plucked away voracious worms, or nibbling bugs ; you have not seen them in the same places year after year, children of your care and love. Around such there is an artificial life, an associational beauty, a fragrance and grace of the affections, that no wild flowers can have. It is a matter of gratitude that this finest gift of Pro- vidence is the most profusely given. Flowers can not be monopolized. The poor can have them as much as the rich. It does not require such an education to love and appreciate them, as it would to admire a picture of Turner's, or a statne of Thorwaldsen's. And, as they are messengers of affection, tokens of remembrance, and presents of beauty, of universal acceptance, it is pleasant to think that all men recognize a brief brotherhood in them. It is not impertinent to offer flowers to a stran- 104 A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. ger. The poorest child can proffer them to the richest. A hundred persons turned together into a meadow full of flowers would be drawn together in a transient brotherhood. It is affecting to see how serviceable flowers often are to the necessities of the poor. If they bring their little floral gift to you, it can not but touch your heart to think that their grateful affection longed to express itself as much as yours. You have books, or gems, or services, that you can render as you will. The poor can give but little, and do but little. Were it not for flowers they would be shut out from those exquisite pleasures which spring from such gifts. I never take one from a child, or from the poor, that I do not thank God in their behalf for flowers ! And then, when Death enters a poor man's house ! It may be, the child was the only creature that loved the un- befriended father — really loved him ; loved him utterly. Or, it may be, it is an only son, and his mother a widow — who, in all his sickness, felt the limitation of her poverty for her darling's sake as she never had for her own; and did what she could, but not what she would, had there been wealth. The coffin is pine. The undertaker sold it -with a jerk of indifference and haste, lest he should lose the selling of a rosewood coffin, trimmed with splendid silver screws. The room is small. The attendant neighbors are few. The shroud is coarse. O ! the darling child was fit for whatever was most excellent, and the heart aches to do for him whatever could- be done that should speak love. It A DISCOURSE OF FLOWERS. 105 takes money for fine linen ; money for costly sepulture. But flowers, thank God, the poorest may have. So, put white buds in the hair — and honey-dew, and mig- nonnette, and half blown roses, on the breast. If it be spring, a few white violets will do ; and there is not a month till November, that will not give you something. But if it is winter, and you have no single pot of roses, then I fear your darling must be buried without a flower ; for flowers cost money in the winter ! And then, if you can not give a stone to mark his burial-place, a rose may stand there ; and from it you may, every spring, pluck a bud for your bosom, as the child was broken off from you. And if it brings tears for the past, you will not see the flowers fade and come again, and fade and come again, year by year, and not learn a lesson of the resurrection — when that which perished here shall revive again, never more to droop or to die. 5* II. DEATH IN THE COUNTRY. Woodstock, Conn., July 28, 1851. There is something peculiarly impressive to me in the old New England custom of announcing a death. In a village of but a few hundred inhabitants, all are known to each. There are no strangers. The village church, the Sabbath school, and the district school have been channels of intercommunication ; so that one is acquainted with not only the persons, but, too often, with the affairs, domestic and secular, of every dweller in the town. A thousand die in the city every month, and there is no void apparent. The vast population speedily closes over the emptied space. The hearts that were grouped about the deceased doubtless suffer alike in the country and in the city. But, outside of this special grief, there is a moment's sadness, a dash of sympathy ; and then life closes over the grief as waters fill the void made when a bucketful is drawn out of the ocean ! There goes a city funeral ! Well, I wonder who it is that is journeying so quietly to his last home ? He was not in my house, nor of my circle ; his life was not a thread woven with mine ; I did not see him before, I shall not miss him now. We did not greet at the church ; we did not vote at the town meeting ; we had not gone together upon sleigh-rides, skatings, huskings, DEATH IN THE COUNTRY. 107 fishings, trainings, or elections. Therefore it is that men of might die daily about us, and we have no sense of it, any more than we perceive it when a neighbor extinguishes his lamp. And when one is buried — ah, a city burial ! Amidst drays and carts, in the thunder of a million wheels, a few carriages fall behind a grim and heathenish hearse, black as midnight; for hearses are made, as all our funeral habits are, to express but one unbroken sorrow, as if a Christian heart had but that experience ! It is a shame that eighteen hundred years of Christianity yet leave Death grim and dismal as a devil's cave. To be sure there is sorrow, but there is sorrow ended as well as begun ; there is release, there is rest, there is victory, as well as bereavement. And yet, no badge of hope, not one sign of cheer, not a color or insignia of immortal joy and beauty, mingles with the black crape and plumes of Christian heathenism about the tomb ! But I wander. "When the procession starts, it moves through the crowded street scarcely attracting a look. No one asks the useless question, Who is it ? No one knows or cares. There it goes — a black pilgrimage through a dusty, roaring street, wending its way toward Greenwood. When the city is well nigh cleared, then begins a- gentle funeral trot, as if the attraction of the grave accelerated our pace as we drew nearer. Blessed portal ! only within these bounds do we seem to receive from nature those lessons of death which we refuse to learn of Christianity. The very hills of life are here I Yonder, where men live, is only noise and dust, heat and smoke, canker and 108 DEATH IN THE COUNTRY- care ! But here every curve and slope speaks beauty and peace. Almost only here the sun falls tranquilly, and flowers thrive, and winds make harps of every tree, and birds, unblemished and unterrified, rejoice. Surely these are the vales that speak of life ! One must needs smile, and, in spite of our perverse education, feel some joy as we lay down the weary body to its rest. One enters Greenwood with a sense of relief. The air changes at the gate. We leave our burdens outside. But when we have laid the dust within its parent's bosom, we emerge into the world again as into a prison. It is a blessed contrast to have so much peace and so deep a beauty close by the city, silently putting life to shame, and winning grief thitherward, as if to the bosom of a parent ! It was upon the very day that we arrived in "Wood- stock, upon this broad and high hill-top, in the after- noon, as we were sitting in ransomed bliss, rejoicing in the boundless hemisphere above, and in the beautiful sweep of hills feathered with woods, and cultivated fields ruffled with fences, and full, here and there, of pictures of trees, single or in rounded groups : it was as we sat thus, the children, three families of them, scattered out, racing and shouting upon the village green before us, that the church bell swung round merrily, as if preluding, or clearing its throat for some message. It is five o'clock — what can that bell be ringing for ? Is there a meeting ? Perhaps a prepara- tory lecture. It stops. Then one deep stroke is given, and all is still. Every one stops. Some one is dead. DEATH IN THE COUNTRY. 109 Another solemn stroke goes vibrating through the crystal air, and calls scores more to the doors. Who can be dead? Another solitary peal wafts its message tremulously along the air ; and that long, gradually dying vibration of a country bell — never heard amid the noises of the air in a city — swelling and falling, swelling and falling ; aerial waves, voices of invisible spirits communing with each other as they bear aloft the ransomed one ! But now its warning voice is given. All are listening. Ten sharp, distinct strokes — and a pause; some one is ten years old of earth's age. No ; ten more follow — twenty years is it? Ten more tell us that it is an adult. Ten more and ten more, and twice ten again, and one final stroke count the age, seventy-one 1 Seventy- one years? "Were they long, weary, sorrowful years? Was it a corrugated wretch who clung ignobly to life ? Was it a venerable sire, weary of waiting for the silver cord to be loosed? Seventy-one years! Shall I see as many ? And if I do, the hill-top is already turned and I am going down upon the further side ! How long to look forward to ! how short to look back upon ! Age and youth look upon life from the opposite ends of the telescope: it is exceedingly long, it is ex- ceedingly short! To one who muses thus, the very strokes of the bell seem to emblem life. Each is like a year, and all of them roll away as in a moment and are gone. III. INLAND VS. SEASHORE. Woodstock, Conn., August, 1851. My dear Brother Storrs: — Your first letter from Newport was pleasant to read. I rejoiced in your pleasure, but was quite aroused by your heresies. I do* not mean any unsoundness of faith, but of taste. Do you not set forth the joys of a fashionable and crowded watering-place in terms that would draw thither a very recluse? I take up arms for the true country; — the pure and undefiled place of Nature! Pray tell me whether there is in Newport such a thing as quiet? How many people have you there, every one on the search for amusement ? Do you ever get rid of noise, or crowds, or excitements ? You only exchange hot and dusty excitement, for excitements with sea-breezes. Can you find a place out of doors to be alone in for half-an-hour ? You can not go out of doors without meeting somebody. Somebody is liable to be acquainted with you at every turn. Something is always " going on " in town. You are as much in society and as little with Nature as if in the old, thundering city. But here, in this quiet, hill-top town, is the pro- foundest peace. The clouds in the air are hardly more alone than we. "We have the plenitude of Nature in some of her loveliest aspects, and it requires an effort to INLAND VS. SEASHORE. Ill get into company as great as for you to get out of it. A man may sink down within himself in the pro- foundest meditation. Nobody calls to see you. Nobody knows that you are here. You float, like a mote in sunbeams, where you will, up or down, hither or thither, without contact and in silence. The whole air is marvelous by its stillness. It is still in the morning, at noon, at sunset, at dark, and still all night. Early in the morning, from four to five, the birds say their matins. (Alas ! Jenny Lind, you would be no bird here !) The stalwart lord of the barnyard starts up and challenges a hundred other cocks and cockerels of each degree. Then come the obstreperous children and coaxing nurses. These noises over, you have had the last of it. Nothing else makes a noise in this village. Indeed, this is quite a wonder of a village to all who love quiet and a beautiful prospect. Its like I do not know anywhere. It is a miniature Mount Holyoke; and its prospect, the Connecticut Valley in miniature. It is placidly spread upon a hill-top so high up that dust, sound and insects have forsaken it, or never found their way hither. It is marvelous how a village can exist without any apparent trades. But, as far as I can perceive, there are no occupations here of any sort. There is a blacksmith's shop, which never makes a noise, and that is all. No carpenter's shop, nor cabinet- makers, nor turners ; no hatters, saddlers, watchmaker or shoemaker, that I can see. No houses are building ; we hear no trowel clinking, or muffled hammer-stroke ; there is no mortar-making — no piles of brick or lumber. 112 INLAND VS. SEASHOKE. The town was finished long ago : and all workmen of every sort seem to have gone off and left dear old Woodstock all to itself. Even travelers leave our soli- tude unbroken. There is no tavern on the street ; and the two little tranquil stores might plant corn up to their very door steps without much fear of its being trodden down. Once in a while, toward evening, a farmer's wagon skirts along the edge of the green. Such a sight brings us to the windows. But it is a short and headlong drive, as if the rider felt guilty for dis- turbing the peace, or raising a dust, even for a moment. Some twenty houses, white and yard-inclosed, stand modestly apart, and back from the long, broad village- green which they inclose but do not shut in. This village-green is neither a circle, square, parallelogram, nor polygon, but a space sloping chiefly from north to south, and in some places eastward and westward, with no shape at all, but coming nearer than to any thing else to the form of an elongated flat-iron. For a long time, seeing no people in the street, no one going in or coming out of the doors, no persons in the window, or even smoke in the chimneys, neither babies, boys, nor maidens, being anywhere discernible, I supposed, for the first week, that only old people lived here, — nice, tidy, quiet old people, such as I saw on Sundays keep- ing themselves awake in church by nibbling fennel or caraway. I was mistaken. Familiarity has enabled me to detect signs of life in all its varieties. But the habit of the place is to be quiet. I wonder whether the children cry or not? I wonder if the sober, tranquil INLAND VS. SEASHORE. 113 people ever made a noise in their life? How long is it since they subsided and tranquilized ? The air breathes as if it were iced sherbet. You have a distinct luxury in each particular breath. You halt voluntarily and cultivate inspiration. The sun, that rages in the valleys below, and wilts down the crowds in the sweltering cities, here walks in cool brightness through the heavens, tempering the air to that delicious point at which the chill is lost, but heat has not begun. Your coolness is all imported. You are hot in that pent-up, narrow-streeted, rackety Newport, and cooled only by the sea-breeze. Coolness with you is a thing inserted. But here it is indigenous. It belongs to the very texture of the air. You may have the sea-shore, waves and surf, storms once in a while, bathing and fishing — all, except the last, boisterous. Beside, you have the buzzing enthusiasm of thousands around you. Your pulse never gets down, your eye never cools. Why, my dear fellow, you see persons from the city eveiy day ! You get the papers the very day of their publication ! Do you call that the country ? As for me, if I please to bathe, I have a little lake down yonder. Just now there is not a ripple on its surface — a falling insect here and there dimples it, and a fish, in taking in the petty Jonah, increases the dimple to a circlet. When, wading on the silver sand, I at length have depth to plunge, the ripple runs half across to yonder shore. Fishing? yes, I go down with great possessions of various tackle ; but the perch are small, pickerel scarce, and pout only go out at dusk ; so that one 114 INLAND VS. SEASHORE. forgets his line, and falls off into a dream, or rows about the tranquil river, along the fringe of bushes, then among lily-pads, then toward the mouth of the i7ilet, then along the shaded edge, where deep, dark pine- woods forever murmur. Now and then a fish leaps up and falls back with a plash. Or your oar, poised for a second, sheds musical pearls into the pure lake, or the cracking of sticks tells you that a cow breaks through the thicket to drink — two cows evidently in the water, one drinking upward and the other downward, lip to lip ! These are our bathings and fishings. By the way, . those white pond-lilies ! Is there another flower, its adjuncts also considered, so exquisitely beautiful. The rare form of its elongated cup, the interior coronet of stamens and pistils, delicately gold-colored, the green and pink-edged sepals, its delicious fragrance, make it a very queen. It chooses some nook or bay along the lake's edge, spreads out its large shield-like leaf, and floats its snow-white blossom on the surface. Flowers growing from the soil are fall beautiful, but flowers grow- ing out of crystal water are beyond all words of beauty. In the morning, look out eastward. A vale with every conceivable undulation stretches full thirty miles from north to- south. It lies almost under you. It is so near that you see the farm-houses, the orchards, the groups of trees, the corn-fields, the yellow rye, and the now half-ripe oats. It is not an even, level valley, bat a collection of wide swells or rolls of land setting in on the north, and but half commingling when they reach the lake right over opposite to us. Indeed, so broken INLAND VS. SEASHORE. 115 and stony are the features, that it would not be a valley at all if it were not for the hills that shut it in on either side. And these hills are made up of multitudes of little hills piled together in every way that is beautiful. The little stream, that finds its course through the valley among mounds and rounds and hillocks, seems uncer- tain of its way, and sets trees and bushes along its banks, for fear of forgetting where to flow. The brook has fairly reflected itself in the air — for see that film of silver mist, thin as gauze, hanging above the stream, clear down to the lake ! 0, see the lake! — or, rather, see the robes of mist that hide it ! The sun is at them. They are wreathing, moving, lifting up, and moving off, sun-colored in their depths, but silver-edged! Now the water reflects the morning. At noon it will be breezy, and whitish, or steel-gray. At night it will be black as ink. In the early part of the day the lakelet speaks of life ; but at twilight it seems to think of death. "But what do you do for amusement?" Why, sir, we do not receive company, or make calls, or ride about among a caravan of dandy vehicles, or "go with the multitude" in a-swimming, or anything else that implies excitement or company. Be it known, however, that we have a select few here, to whom quiet is enjoyment. We look at the picture-gallery of God in the heavens, with never two days' pictures alike ; we sit down with our books on the brow of the breezy hill, under an old chestnut tree, and read sometimes the book, sometimes the landscape, sometimes the highland clouds ; we wait 116 INLAND VS. SEASHOKE. till the evening sun begins to emit rose-colored light, and then we take rides along the edges of woods, upon unfrequented roads, across suspicious bridges, along forest paths leading no one knows where, and coming out just at the very spot we did not expect. In this perilous journeying we often breathe our horse while we collect flowers, leaves, mosses, and grasses ; and we get home at the most urgent moment of sunset, just in time to go up into the observatory and see the wide and wonderful glory, of which for a moment we utter ex- clamations — "Look at that islet of fire," "and that deep crimson bank," " and that exquisite blue between those rifts of fire," "and that dove-colored cloud with a bronze- colored molding and fringe!" But words are foolish! And we sink away to silence, and only gaze and think ! But, on other days we vary the entertainment ; for there is an inexhaustible variety. Behold us then — the ladies incipiently Bloomerized — wending afoot along the road leading out of town westward. Before we are half out of sight of the houses, the road is lined with blackberries. The high-blackberry is yet holding back, but the low-blackberry, trailing all over the banks and covering the rocks, is in high condition. How large and plump are these unhandled berries ! It is a marvel how such little mouths as I see can get a whole one in. We are soon satisfied. Now for boquets of wayside flowers. Spireas, one, two, three, four species ! . Golden rod, a lingering bud or two on the wild rose ; and here are pussies, as the children call the velvet little mul- berry-shaped posies : and here are flowering grasses, INLAND VS. SEASHORE. 117 and rushes, and ferns, and green leaves diverse and innumerable ; — and a leaf is as pretty as a flower, any- day, if you will only think so. Here, too, is the trailing strawberry, whose vine, inwoven with buds of spirea, will make your lady a queen-like coronet. And now we come to the forks of the road, and yonder is a whortleberry patch ! Even at a table, in a saucer, with cream and spoon, berries are not to be despised. But the bush is the only fit table, your hand the best spoon, and your exhilaration the richest cream. Commend me to a rocky hill-side, full of crickets, grass- hoppers, butterflies, and birds, with blue berries, whortle- berries, and, about the edges of the field, blackberries, millions and millions more than you, and all the village boys, and all the country girls, and all the little birds in the air or out of the woods, can eat ! By the way, have you locusts, and chirping crickets, and stridulous grass- hoppers, in Newport ? A few crickets, perhaps, in the ashes, or cracks of the hearth, which you hunt with brush and broom, as soon as their shrill song disturbs you. But grasshoppers, brown, green, and gray, you have not in Newport, I know. You can not sit upon a gray, shelving rock, ruffled about with bushes, half of them in flower, and the rest full of berries, covered but in nowise cushioned with filmy lichens, and see grass- hoppers, • those speculators of the pasture, which jump first, and consider afterwards where they shall land. There goes one upon a spider's web, half broken through by its sprawling descent. Unwelcome morsel ! It is doubtful which is most alarmed, spider or grasshopper. 118 INLAND VS. SEASHORE Doubtless you have human spiders and webs, and entangled insects about you, in that fashionable water- ing-place. There are a world of things to be considered on the way home. Mosses must be gathered ; new flowers are espied ; a deal of engineering is required to scale the fences; and I have never seen a lady tottering on a stone fence, anxiously securing her skirts, with reef and double reef, across whose mind convictions did not flash in favor of Bloomerism. Then this piece of twilight wood must be threaded, the golden-freckled ground admired, and the long shadows which it flings across the road and upon the meadow observed ; and when, at length, you are safely home again, and daintily refreshed on the whitest bread, the freshest butter, and berries of your own picking, you sit an hour in the cool, shady veranda, and think it must be eleven o'clock, but find by your watch that it is only eight, you protest that never were days so long, never days so full of joy, deep and quiet, and never nights of unwinking sleep so refreshing. I have it in my heart to tell you of our experiences in country thunder-storms ; of sunsets gorgeously fol- lowing storms ; of moonlight scenery ; of village scenes and country customs, awakening in us that were coun- try bred, thousands of dear recollections of youth and home. But I spare you ! I trust that you sinned in your enthusiasm for Newport through ignoranee. I should be loth to think you so hardened in your desire to build there three tabernacles for the trine-editorship INLAND VS. SEASHORE. 119 of The Independent. I will therefore wait to see if you recant your theses of heresy. But if you again shall declare them, and post them on the broadside of The Independent — as Luther did his on the church-door — it will then be time to bring up these other forces. Of one thing I am sure, that your children have not half the chance in a fashionable watering-place that ours here have, for frolic and health, in this little serene vil- lage-wilderness. Here they are, perched like eagles on a cliff, and I am delighted to see how much children sympathize with landscape beauty, sunsets, cloud-flocks, and all the variable phases of Nature. But this long, sloping green, and the rounded sides of the almost pre- cipitous hill which the village crowns, are their chief joy. All day long they are abroad, and the darkness hardly drives them in. Bad company is impossible where there is no company. All day long they race and chase, or go a-berrying, or gather under the shade of orchards or elms to relate marvelous stories; or they dig profound wells, in which, for lack of water, they impound solemn toads ; they hunt hen's nests ; and the lesser urchins disturb the gravity of old matronly hens by sundry attempts at catching them. They gather about the cow at milking, or drive her to pasture, or ride the horses to water; and once in a week they proudly vex the mill-pond with hook and line, and astonish their simple parents with two perch and four roach, caught, strung, sandy and dry ! They have no time fo? 1 quarreling, and it seems impossible for them to devise any mischief meritorious of a whipping. 120 INLAND VS. SEASHORE. But, good-bye, my dear friend ! May I live to see you again and grasp your hand in fellowship of our common work. P. S. At length I have discovered a cabinet-maker's shop ! but there was nothing going on therein. IV. NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. Woodstock, Conn., August 30, 1853. When this reaches you, I shall have spent six suc- cessive Sabbaths in the State of Connecticut — the longest period of sojourn within this, the State of my birth, for twenty -five years. During this quarter of a century, she has partaken largely of the changes that have gone on throughout New England. LTer old towns have grown rusty, and lie up upon her high places to the coolness of summer, and to the roaring winds of winter, in a tranquillity which would soothe the progressive fears of the most rooted conservative. Young men, as soon as they attain their majority, push off to the West or South, or to the nearest manufacturing village or rail- road depot. Thus, the uplifted towns, seen afar, upon their mighty hills, lie like a dream ; while their offspring villages in the valleys below whirl like a top with enter- prise. The gods of the valley are mightier in New England than the gods of. the hills ; the loom is too strong for the plow. Indeed, farmers' boys are the most profitable crop that New England farms can now pro- duce. To ride about these endlessly diversified hills, and marvel at their beauty, and rejoice in their associa- tions, is, I am persuaded, a much easier way of spending time than to subdue them, and compel them to render up remunerating harvests. One would think that there 6 122 NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. had been, at some time, a hailstorm of granite bowlders, and a rain of small stones to boot, along these hills. I have seen a number of farms on which must have origi- nated the affecting stories of sheep having their noses sharpened to get the grass between the stones, and grass- hoppers clinging to mnllen stalks with tears in their eyes from very hunger. And yet it is surprising to see how much soil labor has redeemed from rock and stone, and smoothed and enriched into deep and mellow tilth. The rugged pastures which inclose many of these beauti- ful farms are samples of what the farms once were, and a gauge of the degree of labor which they have cost. A highly cultivated farm is always an object of beauty ; out in the rocky parts of New England, a fine farm has a moral beauty ; it is an enduring mark and measure of indomitable industry. And the best of all is, that, while the men make the farms, the farms thus make the men. There is scarcely a homestead to be met, far or near, that has not reared some man who is or has been distinguished in public life. Nor can I think of a worthier aim, during the summer vacations of profes- sional men, than to return to their native places, and gather up the memorials of. past days, and in the lives, customs, and familiar events of the past and passing generations, furnish materials for history. Why should not all the old mansions and farm-houses be secured by daguerreotype, before they crumble? "Lossing's Field Book of the Revolution" is, on this account, worthy of all praise. But why should the memorials of only our revolutionary worthies be preserved ? Why not the NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. 128 birth-places of eminent civilians, clergymen, inventors, schoolmasters, and of all others who have worthily- served their generation ? Dr. Sprague, of Albany, has in preparation the lives of the most noted American clergymen, now deceased, — a work which we believe, from a slight taste which we have privately had, will be of the highest interest. "Why should there not be illus- trations, so easily and cheaply procured, of their resi- dences, birth-houses, their churches, and of their monu- ments or simple tomb-stones ; and if there is none even of these, then of the spots Or graveyards where they lie? By the by, speaking of graveyards, one can not but be pained at the desolation of these places in so many New England towns. Once decently buried, and a stone erected, the labor of love ends, and the memorials are given over to the elements. It is painful to me, for the most part, to walk through the New England grave yards, always excepting the noble cemeteries which within a few years have begun to spring up near the larger towns and cities. The fences are dilapidated, the head-stones broken, or swayed half over, the intervals choked up with briers, elders, and fat- weeds; and the whole place bearing impress of the most frigid indiffer- ence. Yet, nowhere on earth is death more solemn than in New England, nor the remembrance of the dead more ineffaceable. Nowhere else is man valued so highly, or his loss more universally felt. But there seems to be little thought of anything that is not in some way connected with practical utility. If the departed could be made one whit happier, — if it were 124 NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. dreamed that the beautifying of the grave would even be noticed by those whose bodies sleep there, — nowhere else in the world would loving care continue to be lavished upon the inclosing soil, more than in New England. But the habits of the people make a thorough separation between the living and the dead. The the- ology has entered into the practical ways of life. The dead are utterly gone. God has them in another world. Their state is fixed and unalterable. So thinking, it seems of but little worth to garnish their sleeping places. But in part, this neglect in New England is owing to a want of education and of a love of the graceful and the beautiful. It is a pain - to us to tread these places. Were I buried here, it seems as if my bones would pluck at these disgraceful weeds and thistles, should they penetrate the mold above my head. I can not help feeling that it is a shame and disgrace that the only places in thrifty New England where weeds are allowed to grow unmolested are graveyards, where the bodies of our sweet children, where father and mother, brother and sister, husband and wife, rest till the resurrection. Cows and horses are often allowed to pasture ,on the graves ; thus saving the expense of mowing, beside a clear gain in grass! One of the finest orchards in Sher- burnc, Mass., is that which flourishes upon the old town graveyard (now private property). The remains of a suc- cession of their former pastors, and one president of Har- vard College, lie under the roots of these profitable trees. It is impossible that pleasant associations can exist with the place of burial under such circumstances. The NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. 125 grossest dreads hedge about the spot which a Christian faith should hallow and enrich. Who would not shrink from being buried under wild parsnej)S, burdocks, blackberry bushes, and hardback? It were better to be burned, or to sink to the bottom of the sea! One loves to wander through Greenwood, and think of such a resting-place for his body when life is done. Those quiet rounds and hills, sacred from carelessness or in- trusion, over which trees cast their checkered shadows, and sing their music, how cheering and how refining are such associations ! They tempt us frequently thither. Our children are pleased to go. Death begins to be more easily thought of. It becomes associated with themes which often inspire and sanctify the im- agination. Christ, the Victor and Eedemptor — our own victory and redemption ; heaven, and renewed friendship, higher loves, and inconceivable joys ; — these themes find in such places an easy association with our thoughts, and life becomes dignified by the estimate which we place upon death. Besides, it is a blessed attainment when we can so associate the truths of God's word with natural objects, that one is, in a manner, reading his Bible in flowers, in forests, in sunlight, and at twilight, always, everywhere, and in every thing. It is a blessed thing to have converted death into a joy ; yea, to kindle up in its portals a light that shines backward upon our path of life, and cheers us onward toward it, as if it were, as it is, our home and glory. For death is the coming of the Son of Man. A Chris- tian ought not to be afraid of his Father's bosom. "N 126 NEW ENGLAND GEAVEYAEDS. But how should one not shrink from burial if he sees that all who have gone before him are cast out into a place of desolation, where friends will not choose to come, or will come to wade through matted grass and tangled weeds, and push away bush and brier to read his decaying name; and hasten away, dreading the cheerless day that shall briDg their bodies, too, to the home of the refuse and worn out ! ! may the sun pierce through the shade of trees, dear to many birds, to fall in checkered light upon my grave! I ask no stone or word of inscription. May flowers be the only memorials of my grave, renewed every spriog, and maintained through the long summer ! To a certain extent this matter will be reformed by the selection of grounds in imitation of our suburban cemeteries. But this should not hinder an immediate attention to the simple burial-grounds which must long be the only resting-places for the departed of our villages. And although any one who has Christian refinement will feel an interest in mending the grossness of preva- lent custom, is it not a peculiarly fit labor of love for woman ? The ladies of any parish have but to deter- mine that the resting-places of their ancestors shall bud and blossom as the rose, and it will be done. Let clean and sufficient fences be made ; let the borders and paths be planted with shade trees ; let the side-path? be lined with roses, vines, and free-growing shrubs . let the grass be shorn at least every month ; lei measures be taken to erect again the drooping head stones of the ancient dead, and, if needful, retrace the NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. 127 effaced letters; for all these things are within the reach of every village parish in New England. We stood with peculiar pleasure, but a few days ago, in the burial-place of the family of Uncas, in Norwich, Conn., upon the banks of the Yantic. Blessed be the hands that traced that inclosure, and builded the simple shaft of granite that bears the only word " Uncas." About fifty descendants, even to the last of his noble line, lie sleeping about him. At but a little distance is the ground, where the Indians buried their sachems. Bringing them up the cove in their canoes, they ascended a dark and beautiful ravine to the broad bluff-head, and there laid them down in burial upon its level circuit. This very ground is now the property of Ik Marvel, (the pleasant author of much summer literature,) upon which he proposes erecting his dwelling. At first one reluctates at such a use. Yet, as all other Indian haunts are now possessed by streets and dwellings — No, we are not satisfied, after all, that it should be so. But, if it must be, we are thankful that a genial soul, alive to all the associations of the place — finding inspiration in them ■ — perl i aps embalming their histories in his literary works, will rear his mansion over the dust of many generations of the mighty men of the forest. Perhaps, as he sits in thoughtful twilight, reflecting over the graves of those who once were chiefs among their fellows, but who noAV have faded away to a mere memory, he may be inspired to associate his labors with the moral growth of his age, that so Ms memory shall never fade, hut stand in freshness and glory, even after the trump shall 128 NEW ENGLAND GRAVEYARDS. have called forth his reanimated dust, and that of his dusky predecessors, to the morning of ordeal and of glory. I must reserve for a separate letter some few words about Norwich, the most picturesque of all the towns of Connecticut. V. TOWNS AND TEEES. Norwich, Conn., August 30, 1851. There are hundreds of villages in Connecticut that are beautiful in various degrees and by different methods ; some by the width of prospect, some by their mountain scenery, some by their position on the water, and some, nestled away from all the world, find their chief attrac- tions in their deep tranquillity. But in every place the chief beauty must be in what Nature has done, or in what man Las done naturally. The rocks, hills, moun- tains ; the innumerable forms of water in springs, rills, rivulets, streams, estuaries, lakes or ocean; but above all the trees — these create beauty, if it exist at all. It is rare that any place combines to a great degree the several specialities mentioned. A place that is inland, and yet on the seaboard — that has bold, precipitous rocks close at hand, and at the same time is spread out upon a champaign — that unites the refinements belonging to society in large towns with the freshness and quiet of a secluded village, imbosomed in trees, full of shaded yards and gardens, broad, park-like streets, soon opening out into romantic rural roads among pine woods along the rocky edges of dark streams — such a place, especially if its society is good, if its ministers, teachers, civilians, and principal citizens, are intelligent and refined, and 6* 130 TOWNS AND TEEES. its historical associations abundant and rich — must be regarded as of all others the most desirable for residence. And such a place is Norwich, Connecticut ! The river Thames is formed by the junction of the Yantic and the Shetucket. Upon the angle of these three streams stands the town. The Shetucket is a black water in all its course, and near to Norwich it has a bed hewed out of rocks, and cliffs for banks. The Yantic is a smaller stream, rolling also over a rocky channel, with a beautiful plunge, just above the town, of seventy -five feet. The Thames is not so much a river as a narrow arm of the sea, thrust far up inland as if to search for tributary streams. ThSse ribbon-like bays mark the whole northern coast of Long Island Sound. The Thames is navigable for large steamers to its point of formation. The conformation of the ground on which Norwich stands is entirely peculiar. Along the water it is comparatively .low, affording a business plane, and a space for railroad necessities. The whole ground then rises with sudden slope, lifting the residences far up out of the dust and noise of business into an altitude of quiet. But what is the most remarkable is, that a huge broad-backed granite cliff of rocks bulges up in the very midst of the city, cutting it in two, extending backward half a mile, and leaving the streets to sweep around on either side of it. This masterly old monarch looks down a hundred feet perpendicular, on the eastern side, upon the streets below, its bare rocks and massive ledges here and there half hid by evergreens, and in spots matted with grass, and fringed with shrubs. On the TOWNS AND TliEES. 131 western side the slope is gradual, and it is cut half way down to the Yantic by a broad street, nobly shaded with stalwart elms, and rilled with fine family residences. As one winds his way from the landing up the curving street, about the base of the rock on the eastern side, at evening especially, in twilight, or with a tender moon- light, this wild uplifted cliff — in the very heart of a city, with forest trees rooted almost plumb above his head — has a strange and changeable uncertainty, at one moment shining oat distinctly, and at the next dim and shadowy ; now easily compassed by the eye, and then glancing away, if he have imagination enough, into vast mountain spaces. This singular rocky ridge trends toward the north, and gradually loses itself in the plain on which stands Norwich Old Town. There is thus brought together, within the space of a mile, the city, the country, and the wilderness. The residences are so separated from the business part of the town, that one who comes first into the upper part of the city, and wanders about under its avenues of mighty elms, and among its simple old houses, or its modern mansions, would take it to be a place of elegant repose, without * life or business. But if he first lands below, amid stores and manufacturing shops, as for several years we did, he might go away thinking Norwich to be a mere ham- mering, rumbling place of business. Indeed, there are three towns in one. The streets skirting the water form a city of business ; the streets upon the hill, a city of residences ; a mile or two back is the old town, a verita- ble life-like picture of a secluded country village of the 132 TOWNS AND TREES. old New England days. What could one want better for a place of retirement? An hour's ride brings you to the seaside : to boats, fishing, lounging and looking, whether in storm or calm. You may go by cars to old New London, or by boat to Stonington, and then by yacht or other craft to Block Island, or anywhere else you please. There are places for fish — black fish, blue fish, speckled bass, porgies, weak-fish, etc. ; there are places for surf-bathing, with waves tempered to all degrees of violence, and to every tone from whispering to thunder. If your mood does not take you seaward, half an hour will suffice to bear you inland, among bold and rocky hills, cleft with streams, full of precipitous ravines, and shaded with oaks and evergreens. Or, if you do not wish to roam, you may ascend the intra- urban mountain — the Tarpeian Eock of Norwich, or its Mount Zion, whichever your associations prefer to call it — and from its pinnacles overlook the wide circum- jacent country. If you happily- own a house upon the western side of Washington street, — or, better yet, if you own a friend, who owns the house, and feels lonesome without you, — then you can have the joys of the breezy wilderness at home. For, if you will go back through the garden, and then through a little pet orchard, you shall find the forest-covered bank plunging two or three hundred feet down toward the Yantic ; and there, hidden among shrubs and wild flowers, oaks and elms, you hear no din of wheels or clink of shops, but only the waving of leaves and the sport of birds. But if there were none of these rare conjunctions TOWNS AND TREES. 133 of hill, rock, and plain, river and sea, Norwich would still be a beautiful place bj virtue of its trees, and especially of those incomparably most magnificent of all earthly trees, elms ! A village shaded by thoroughly grown elms can not but be handsome. Its houses may be huts; its streets may be ribbed with rocks, or chan- neled with ruts ; it may be as dirty as New York, and as frigid as Philadelphia; and yet these vast, majestic taber- nacles of the air would redeem it to beauty. These are temples indeed, living temples, neither waxing old nor shattered by Time, that cracks and shatters stone, but rooting wider with every generation and casting a vaster round of grateful shadow with every summer. We had rather walk beneath an avenue of elms than inspect the noblest cathedral that art ever accomplished. What is it that brings one into such immediate personal and exhila- rating sympathy with venerable trees ! One instinctively uncovers as he comes beneath them ; he looks up with proud veneration into the receding and twilight recesses ; he breathes a thanksgiving to Grod every time his cool foot falls along their shadows. They waken the imagi- nation and mingle the olden time with the present. Did any man of contemplative mood ever stand under an old oak or elm, without thinking of other days, — • imagining the scenes that had transpired in their pres- ence? These leaf-mountains seem to connect the past and the present to us as mountain ridges attract clouds from both sides of themselves. Norwich is remarkably enriched by these columnar glories, these mysterious domes of leaf and interlacing bough. No consider- 134 TOWNS AND TEEES. able street is destitute of them, and several streets are prolonged avenues of elms which might give a twinge of jealousy to old New Haven herself — elm- famous ! Norwjch Old Town, however, clearly has the pre-eminence. Its green is surrounded by old Revolu- tionary elms of the vastest stature, and of every shape and delineation of grandeur. How a man can live there and ever get his eyes to the ground, I can not imagine. One must needs walk with upturned face, exploring these most substantial of all air castles. And when pausing underneath some monumental tree, he looks afar up, and sees the bird-population, that Appear scarcely larger than humming-birds, dimly flitting about their secure heritage and sending down a chirp that loses itself half way down to a thin whistle, it seems as though there were two worlds — he in one and they in another. Nearly before the fine old-fashioned man- sion where Lydia Huntly (Mrs. Sigourney) was brought up are two gigantic elms — very patriarchs, measuring at the base more than eighteen feet in circumference. An old man of a hundred years, a member of Dr. Bond's society, relates that his father selected these trees from the forest, and hacked them into town and planted them here. His name should.be written on a tablet and hung upon their breasts ! The two elms next south from these, though not as aged as they, may, we think, be regarded as models of exquisite symmetry and beauty. One might sit by the hour and look upon them as upon a picture. No other tree is at all comparable to the elm. The TOWNS AND TREES. 185 ash is, when well grown, a fine tree, but clumpy ; the maple has the same character. The horse-chestnut, the linden, the mulberry, and poplars, (save that tree-spire, the Lombardy poplar,) are all of them plump, round, fat trees, not to be despised, surely, but representing single dendrological ideas. The oak is venerable by association, and occasionally a specimen is found pos- sessing a kind of grim and ragged glory. But the elm, alone monarch of trees, combines in itself the elements of variety, size, strength, and grace, such as no other tree known to us can at all approach or remotely rival. It is the ideal of trees ; the true Absolute Tree ! Its main trunk shoots up, not round and smooth, like an over-fatted, lymphatic tree, but channeled and corru- gated, as if its athletic muscles showed their proportions through the bark, like Hercules' limbs through his tunic. Then suddenly the whole idea of growth is changed, and multitudes of long, lithe branches radiate from the crotch of the tree, having the effect of straight ness and strength, yet really diverging and curving, until the outermost portions droop over and give to the whole top the most faultless grace. If one should at first say that the elm suggested ideas of strength and uprightness, on looking again he would correct .him- self, and say that it was majestic, uplifting beauty that it chiefly represented. But if he first had said that it was graceful and magnificent beauty, on a second look he would correct himself, and say that it was vast and rugged strength that it set forth. But at length he would say neither ; he would say both ; he would say 136 TOWNS AND TREES. that it expressed a beauty of majestic strength, and a grandeur of graceful beauty. Such domestic forest treasures are a legacy which but few places can boast. Wealth can build houses, and smooth the soil ; it can fill up marshes, and create lakes or artificial rivers ; it can gather statues and paintings ; but no wealth can buy or build elm trees — the floral glory of New England. Time is the only architect of such structures ; and blessed are they for whom Time was pleased to fore-think! No care or expense should be counted too much to maintain the venerable elms of New England in all their regal glory ! No other tree more enjoys a rich loam and moist food. In summer droughts, if copious waterings were given to the finer elms, especially with diluted guano water, their pomp would be noticeably enhanced. But, except in moist places, or in fields where the plow has kept the surface stirred, we noticed that elms were turning yellow, and thinning out their leaves. VI. THE FIRST BREATH IN THE" COUNTRY. Salibbuet, Conn., August, 1858. Once more we find ourselves at home among lucid green trees, among hills and mountains, with lakes and brooks on every side, and country roads threading their way in curious circuits among them. All day long we have moved about with dreamy newness of life. Birds, crickets, and grasshoppers, are the only players upon instruments that molest the air. Chanticleer is at this instant proclaiming over the whole valley that the above declaration is a slander on his musical gifts. Yery well, add chanticleer to cricket, grasshopper, and bird. Add, also, a cow; for I hear her distant low, melodious through the valley, with all roughness strained out by the trees through which it comes hitherward. O, this silence in the air, this silence on the mountains, this silence on the lakes ! The endless roll of wheels, the audible pavements, the night and day jar of city streets, gives place to a repose so full and deep, that, by a five-hours' ride, one is born into a new world. Across the street the woods begin; the real woods, that man never planted nor pruned, and that pride and avarice have saved from being plucked away. For, the property adjacent has long been wished for building lots, but the owner has that pride of land which leads . him to refuse to part 138 THE FIKST BREATH IN THE COUNTRY. with an acre. Thus the forest stands, which, otherwise, would long before this have given way to yards and gardens. And there we stroll ; or lie down upon the dethroned leaves that have had their day, and look up upon the reigning leaves, endless and multitudinous, that wink and quiver to every breeze, or idly spot the blue sky when the wind hushes. It is no ordinary forest. It covers some thirty or forty acres. The lower part is quite level, and covered with oaks. Then come sudden and very severe hills, bolted up so per- pendicularly that, but for grooves and water-cut pas sages, not more than five or six yards wide, you could hardly climb them. Masses of granite rock are flung up here and there in vast heaps, their sides mossed over, the splits and rifts feathered out with ferns, with here and there a bush for a captain. Over behind the woods, there comes down a brook from the mountains, rushing like a courier fierce with news, which it quite forgets to tell, and tempering its zeal along a level meadow, it goes across the road bent on industry. A few miles below it works at a mill as steadily as .if it were not a wild and mountain-born brook. The woods are full of hemlock, pine, and spruce; of laurel and ground-pine ; of all manner of leaves and flowers ; and not least for beauty, the finely-cut ferns, with delicate palms. All this, and a good deal more, for we have not spoken of a diamond spring under a rock, like an eye overhung by a shaggy brow, or of a pretty school - house on the road-edge of the wood, or of a huge rock balanced so as to seem falling, while yet it is firm: — ■ THE FIRST BREATH IN" THE COUNTRY. 139 all this we have within a stone's throw of our dwelling, and it is just nothing to the abundance of attractions in tjie neighborhood. The early morning, and the two hours before sunset, we give to riding and gazing. The middle of the day is given to keeping still. To those who have lived in intense excitements, there is something exquisitely enjoj^able in mere quiet. Simple village sights, and village sounds, bring with them full-measured pleasure. Hours pass lightly away while you sit at your window, looking at everything and at nothing, — a passive reci- pient of all the impressions which the great out-of-doors can make upon you. Let me recount a half-hour's sights. It is a very beautiful day. The sun is warm but the air is cool. Some very dreamy clouds are drifting about without any will of their own, and with no settled purpose. Now and then they half obliterate the sun, and make us look up from our book to see what is the matter. In a minute they bring him back again with a sudden dash of light, as if his eye flashed at the indig- nity of a vail. In the garden, under my window, crickets chirp and chirp, so long and steadily, that chirping seems to be the most of their housekeeping. A puff of air lifts the broad maple leaves, and shakes out a murmurous noise from them, and then flies off, leaving them motionless and silent. The far mountains seem wrapt in a Sabbath. The near hills are green beyond all greenness of any summers save such as this, that has had a shower for every week, and for almost 140 THE FIRST BREATH IN THE COUNTRY. every day. The fountains are full, the rills are brooks, the brooks are streams, the streams rivers. What does a man think of in one of these mid-day summer hours ? He reads a little, but is easily in- veigled by the first side suggestion, and is flying off in every capricious fantasy. In full chase, through the door-yard, three children-boys are vociferous. In the next yard a young man lies fiat on the grass under the tree. In front of the store stands an always-laughing or whistling colored man ; just now he is cracking nuts with his teeth. Somebody casts a jest at him from out the store, and he laughs the whole air full. Now he is making all the motions of a fiddler ; now he is drumming on his chair, and now he starts off whis- tling homeward for his dinner. " Well, Mott, whistling again — I always hear you whistling, but never saw you cry." Stopping the shrill tune, and sliding into the freest and cheeriest laugh that ever pulsated in the air, he answers, "Why, sir, I never cried in my life." I believe him. Careless, contented, luxuriously at ease when he has a dollar in his pocket, willing to work when that is gone, he is, on all hands, admitted to be the happiest man in town. There goes the blacksmith — a jolly fellow. Hard work makes him fat. I do not know about the hard work — but the flesh is obvious. I can hear the anvil ring, and the hammer clink — so, his journeyman is at work. Here passes a new carriage. Somebody has come to town. I wonder who it is. The neighbors wonder who it is. It rolls through the town, and THE FIRST BREATH EST THE COUNTRY. 141 leaves nothing behind but a cloud of dust and much curiosity. There troop the three most roguish boys that ever made parents scold and laugh. They have nothing to do but to set each other on to mischief. They pull off buds from the unblossomed rose-bushes; they pick cucumbers by the half-bushel that were to have been let alone ; they break down rare shrubbery to get whips, and instead get whippings ; they kill the guinea- pigs ; chase the chickens ; break up hen's nests ; get into the carriages and wagons only to tumble out, and set all the nurses a-running ; they study every means of getting under the horses' feet, and, as the more danger- ous act, they are fond of tickling their hind legs, and pulling at their tails ; they fill the already fed horses with extra oats, causing the hostler to fear for his charges' health, since he refuses oats at the next regular feeding ; they paddle in all the mud on the premises ; sit down in the street and fill their pockets with dirt ; they wet their clothes in the brook, tear them in the woods, lose their caps a dozen times a day, and go bare-headed in the blazing sun ; they cut up every imaginable prank with their long-suffering nurses when meals are served, or when bed-time comes, or when morning brings the washing and dressing. They are little, nimble, compact skinful s of ingenious, fertile, endless, untiring mischief. They stub their toes, or cut their fingers, or get stung, or eat some poisonous berry, seed or root, or make us think that they have, which is just as bad; they fall down stairs, or eat green fruit till they are as tight as a 142 THE FIEST BREATH IN THE COUNTRY. drum ; and yet there is no peace to us without them, as there certainly is none with them. Mischievous darlings ! Joyful plagues! Loving, rollicking, laughing rogues! Our house is girded about on the west with vigorous maples. No shade-tree is cleaner- or more dense. Its form can not vie with the elm. It is round and heavy. Its foliage is black-green. The leaves are quite star- like. Few are the places through which the now westward-going sun can pierce. But through one or two of these it is casting on my paper a mottled radiance, that, as the leaves move to the breeze, runs up and down like a kitten playing with my pen. There is something solemn about a maple. The elm is airy, open, dome-like. Through it you can see the skies, and for this reason, as well as from its arched and hanging boughs, it is a cheerful, inspiring and companionable tree. The maple is opaque. Therefore, and especially as the light fades at evening, it stands like a globe of vegetable darkness. However, we are not out now on a tree-errand ; and all these remarks are thrown in accidentally and for nothing. By stage we will take you with us to see sights worth seeing; you shall go to Bashe-Byshe, to Mount Prospect, to the Dome, to Bald Peak, and to Monument Hill ; you shall stroll along the valley of the Housatonic, to the Falls at Canaan ; you shall go a-trouting up and down meadow and mountain brooks, and catch perch and pickerel in the twin lakes, Washinee and Washining, than which more beautiful can not be found in the state. THE FIRST BREATH IN THE COUNTRY. 143 Here, then, for a few weeks we shall forget the city and lay aside its excitements, and bathe with a perpetual lavation in the bright, cool mountain air. When one is young, and not yet entered on life, the heart pants for new things and for excitements. But after one has taken the burden upon his back, and lived amidst cares that never rest, but beat upon the shore like an unquiet surf, then nothing is so luxurious as the calm of a country neighborhood. Nor is the only experience that of pleasure. There is ample space for retrospection, a mental state which is almost denied to public men in the life of a city No man in a city parish, driven by new demands each hour, has leisure to go a-gleaning over harvested fields. He must plow again, sow again, reap again. But now, at this distance, and separated from all daily solicitation, one can review the whole year ; and if done with any worthy standard, it can not fail to furnish • food for the most earnest reflection, and for the most solemn resolu- tions for the future. VII. TROUTING. Where shall we go ? Here is the More brook, the upper part running through bushy and wet meadows, but the lower part flowing transparently over the gravel, through the pasture ■ grounds near the edge of the village. With great ingenuity, it curves and winds and ties itself into bow-knots. It sets out with an in- tention of flowing toward the south. But it lingers on its errand to coquette with each point of the compass, and changes its mind, at length, just in time to rush eastward into the- Housatonic. It is a charming brook to catch trout in, when you can catch them ; but they are mostly caught. Nevertheless, there are here in Salisbury, as in every village, those mysterious men who are in league with fish, and can catch them by scores when no one else can get a nibble. It is peculiarly satisfactory to one's feelings to have waded, watched, and fished with worm, grasshopper, and fly, for half a day, for one poor feeble little trout, and four dace, and at evening to fall in with a merry negro, who informs you, with a concealed mirth in his eye, and a most patronizing kindness, that he has been to the same brook, and has caught three dozen trout, several of them weighing half-a-pound ! We will not try that stream to-day. TROUTING. 145 Well, there is the Candy bruok. We will look at that. A man might walk through the meadows and not suspect its existence, unless through the grass he first stepped into it-! The grass meets over the top of it, and quite hides it through the first meadow; and below, through that iron-tinctured marsh land, it ex- pands only a little, growing open-hearted by degrees across a narrow field ; and then it runs for the thickets —and he that takes fish among those alders will cer- tainly earn them. Yet, for its length, it is not a bad brook. The trout are not numerous, nor large, nor especially fine ; but every one you catch renews your surprise that you should catch any in such a ribbon of a brook. It is the upper part of the brook that is most remark- able, where it flows through mowing meadows, a mere slit, scarcely a foot wide, and so shut in by grass, that at two steps' distance you can not tell where it flows, though your ear hears the low sweet gurgle of its waters down some pet waterfall. Who ever dreamed of fishing in the grass? Yet, as you cautiously spy out an open- ing between the red-top and foxtail, to let your hook through, you seem to yourself very much like a man fishing in an orchard. One would almost as soon think of casting his line into a hay-mow, or of trying for a fish behind winrows or haycocks in a meadow! Yet, if the wind is only still, so that the line shall hang plumb down, we can, by some dexterity, drop the bait between grass, leaves, and spikes of aquatic flowers. No sooner 1 146 TKOrTING. does it touch the invisible water than the line cuts open the grass and rushes through weeds, borne off by your speckled victim. Still further north is another stream, something larger, and much better or worse according to your luck. It is easy of access, and quite unpretending. There is a bit of a pond, some twenty feet in diameter, from which it flows ; and in that there are five or six half-pound trout who seem to have retired from active life and given themselves to meditation in this liquid convent. They were very tempting, but quite untemptable. Stand- ing afar off, we selected an irresistible fly, and with long line we sent it. pat into the very place. It fell like a snow-flake. No trout should have hesitated a moment. The morsel was delicious. The nimblest of them should have flashed through the water, broke the surface, and with a graceful but decisive curve plunged downward, carrying the insect with him. Then we should, in our turn, very cheerfully, lend him a hand, relieve him of his prey, and, admiring his beauty, but pitying his untimely fate, bury him in the basket. But he wished no translation. We cast our fly again and again ; we drew it hither and thither; we made it skip and wriggle ; we let it fall plash like a blundering bug or fluttering moth ; and our placid spectators calmly beheld our feats, as if all this skill was a mere exercise for their amusement, and their whole duty consisted in looking on and preserving order. Next, we tried ground-bait, and sent our vermicular hook down to their very sides. "With judicious gravity TROUTING. 147 they parted, and slowly sailed toward the root of an old tree on the side of the pool. Again, changing place, we will make an ambassador of a grasshopper. Laying down our rod, we prepare to catch the grasshopper. That is in itself no slight feat. At the first step you take, at least forty bolt out and tumble headlong into the grass ; some cling to the stems, some are creeping under the leaves, and not one seems to be within reach. You step again ; another flight takes place, and you eye them with fierce penetration, as if thereby you could catch some one of them with your eye. You can not, though. You brush the grass with your foot again. Another hundred snap out, and tumble about in every direction. There are large ones and small ones, and middling- sized ones ; there are gray and hard old fellows ; yellow and red ones ; green and striped ones. At length it is wonderful to see how populous the grass is. If you did not want them, they would jump into your very hand. But they know by your looks that you are out a-fishing. You see a very nice young fellow climbing up a steeple stem, to get a good look-out and see where you are. You take good aim and grab at him. The stem you catch, but he has jumped a safe rod. Yonder is anothei creeping among some delicate ferns. "With broad palm you clutch him and all the neighboring herbage too. Stealthily opening your little finger, you see his leg ; the next finger reveals more of him ; and opening the next you are just beginning to take him out with the other hand, when, out he bounds and leaves you to renew your entomological pursuits ! Twice you snatch 148 TROUTING. handfuls of grass and cautiously open your palm to find that you have only grass. It is quite vexatious. There are thousands of them here and there, climbing and wriggling on that blade, leaping off from that stalk, twist- ing and kicking on that vertical spider's web, jumping and bouncing about under your very nose, hitting you in your face, creeping on your shoes, or turning summer- sets and tracing every figure of parabola or ellipse in the air, and yet not one do you get. And there is such a heartiness and merriment in their sallies ! They are pert and gay, and do not take your intrusion in the least dudgeon. If any tender-hearted person ever wondered Iioav a humane man could bring himself to such a cruelty as the impaling of an insect, let him hunt for a grasshopper in a hot day among tall grass ; and when at length he secures one, the affixing him upon the hook will be done without a single scruple, with judicial solemnity, and as a mere matter of penal justice. Now then the trout are yonder. We swing our line to the air, and give it a gentle cast toward the desired spot, and a puff of south wind dexterously lodges it in the branch of the tree. You plainly see it strike, and whirl over and over, so that no gentle pull will loosen it. You draw it north and south, east and west ; you give it a jerk up and a pull down ; you try a series of nimble twitches ; in vain you coax it in this way and solicit it in that. Then you stop and look a moment, first at the trout and then at your line. Was there ever anything so vexatious? Would it be wrong to get angry ? In fact you feel very much like it. The very TROUTING. 149 things you wanted to catch, the grasshopper and the trout, you could not; but a tree, that you did not in the least want, you have caught fast at the first throw. You fear that the trout will be scared. You cautiously draw nigh and peep down. Yes, there they are, looking at you and laughing as sure as ever trout laughed ! They understand the whole thing. With a very decisive jerk you snap your line, regain the remnant of it, and sit down to repair it, to put on another hook, you rise up to catch another grasshopper, and move on down the stream to catch a trout ! Meantime, the sun is wheeling behind the mountains, for you are just at the foot of the eastern ridge of Mount Washington (not of the White Mountains, but of the Taconic range in Connecticut). Already its broad shade begins to fall down upon the plain. The side of the mountain is solemn and sad. Its ridge stands sharp against a fire-bright horizon. Here and there a tree has escaped the axe of the charcoal ers, and shaggily marks the sky. Through the heavens are slowly sailing continents of magnificent fleece moun- tains — Alps and Andes of vapor. They, too, have their broad shadows. Upon yonder hill, far to the east of us, you see a cloud-shadow making gray the top, while the base is radiant with the sun. Another cloud- shadow is moving with stately grandeur along the valley of the Housatonic ; and, if you rise to a little eminence, you may see the brilliant landscape growing dull in the sudden obscuration on its forward line, and growing as suddenly bright upon its rear trace. How 150 TROUTING. majestically that shadow travels up those steep and precipitous mountain sides ! How it scoops down the gorge and valley and moves along the plain 1 But now the mountain-shadow on the west is creep- ing down into the meadow. It has crossed the road where your horse stands hitched to the paling of a deserted little house. You forget your errand. You select a dry tufty knoll, and lying down you gaze up into the sky. O ! those depths. Something within you reaches out and yearns ; you have a vague sense of infinity — of vastness — of the littleness of human life, and the sweet- ness and grandeur of divine life and of eternity. You people that vast ether. You stretch away through it and find that celestial city beyond, and therein dwell how many that are yours ! Tears come unbidden. You begin to long for release. You pray. Was there ever a better closet ? Under the shadow of the moun- tain, the heavens full of cloudy cohorts, like armies of horsemen and chariots, your soul is loosened from the narrow judgments of human life, and touched with a full sense of immortality and the liberty of a spiritual state. An hour goes past. How full has it been of feelings struggling to be thoughts, and of thoughts deli- quescing into feeling. Twilight is coming. You have miles to ride home. Not a trout in your basket ! Never mind, you have fished in the heavens, and taken great store of prey. Let them laugh at your empty basket. Take their raillery good-naturedly; you have certainly had good luck. TROUTING. 151 But we have not yet gone to the brook for which we started. That must be for another tramp. Perhaps one's experience of " fancy tackle" and of fly-fishing might not be without some profit in moral analogies ; perhaps a mountain stream and good luck in real trout may afford some easy side-thoughts not altogether unprofit- able for a summer vacation. At any rate it will make it plain that oftentimes the best part of trout-fishing is not the fishing. VIII. A EIDE. Come, if you are a-going to-day, it's high time you were off. It's four miles to the mountain road, and then a stiff pull up the hills. Is the lunch in the bas- ket? Have you got all your rig? Well, good morn- ing all ! And here we are under way. The sky is full of slowly-opening, rolling, evasive fleece-clouds, that never do what you think they are a-going to, and always develop with unexpected shapes and effects. So you get and lose the sunshine by turns, and go along a checkered road just under the Taconic range. First you have on your right the swampy meadows, full of rank grasses, clumps of alders. Here and there little arbpral villages of hemlock, a fringe of bushes and trees wind circuitously through the four-mile stretch, having in charge a brook, whose fair face the sun is not to gaze at too broadly, but only in golden glances, softened and tempered to mildness by the leafy bath of lucid green through which it passes. Birds are busy as you ride along, and they have an intuitive knowledge that you are not to disturb them. They scarcely rise from the bush. Black- winged yellow-birds are harvesting the thistle-tops; king-birds, perched upon the corner stakes of the rail fence, wait till you are fairly up to them, and then with a fling and a measured circuit, they alight A RIDE. 15S upon another stake four or five panels ahead. Crows, briskly flying through the air, are too intent for break- fast to spend time in cawing. Now and then, a king- bird makes a dash at them, and drives them up or down with unwonted nimbleness. Striped squirrels run along the fence, their pouches protuberant with prudent stores. The grasses and leaves, as you look aslant upon them, glitter with dewdrops ; and all about you those nocturnal architects, spiders, have spread forth their crystal palaces, which glitter and quiver along every thread with jewel-drops. This is called the under-mountain road. You would know why if you were on it. The mountains are not' of the giant species, but they are much too large for hills. They range along on the west side of the Hou- satonic valley about twelve or fifteen miles. Their sides are not perpendicular except in two or three places. They slope toward you with almost every possible variation, giving your eye many and diverse pathways to the summit, up through gorges, ravines, and almost valleys. You of course know that moun- tains, which have the firmest features and the most fixed forms of nature, are yet of a more variable ex- pression than any thing in the world except the ocean and the air. Lakes, trees, meadows, and men, have moods and changeable expressions; but mountains, beyond all other natural objects, are subject to moods. Every change of temperature, every change of hour throughout the day, every change of cloud or sun, is reflected upon the mountains. They are the grand 154 A RIDE. expositors of the atmosphere. Sometimes they stand in dreamy mood, hazy, indistinct, absent-minded. All inequalities seem effaced. The lines of depression or the bulges of rock are lost, and they lie in airy tran- quillity, as if God had sloped them from base to summit with an even line. Perhaps the next morning all reserve is gone. They have traveled up toward you. They seem close at hand. Every line is sharp, and there is no longer any dreamy expression, but one of earnest out-looking. They gaze down on you. There is a dark, solemn, positive expression, as if they had come to judgment with you. Mountains are the favorite grounds for shadows. They lie patiently still while clouds amuse themselves with painting every possible form and shape upon their huge sides; and they even choose to make their own shadows rather than to have none. A mountain-shadow, when the sun is in the west — a somber sheet of transparent darkness, cast loosely and mysteriously down from cliff to base — is a very witch with the imagination. One's thoughts play with it, rushing in and out, as we have seen swallows at Niagara dashing in and out of the thunder- mists of the Horse-shoe Falls. But no effects are finer than those which sometimes are seen at or near sunset, when the heavens are full of white-gray and blue-gray clouds. The light which reveals them is entirely reflected down from the clouds, and from different strata and with different intensities. It is of all other light that which gives- the utmost dis- tinctness in contrast with the most perfect obscurity. A RIDE. 155 The nearest point to you will be black with purple darkness, and swell up into an unfamiliar grandeur which effaces all your former knowledge of it. Whether the mountain is a cloud or the cloud a mountain ; whether there is a change going on, and the rocky top is melting away and mistily exhaling, or the mists are condensing and hardening into rock, you can not tell. But right out against this Obscure stands another section, so astonish- ingly revealed that you can trace its anatomy almost to the minutest line. Every swell or scoop, all the ribs and bones, the petty ridges and hollows, the whole wavy surface of the four-mile slope, is as distinct as the wrinkles on your own hand. Between these extremes is every possible gradation. Never long alike in any feature, but changing with the ever-changing Teloud, you can not but feel that there is some mysterious connection between cloud-mountains and earthy rock- mountains. Those airy hills, are they the spirit-forms which come into visible communion with their yet earth-bound brethren? Do these things symbol forth the communion of spirits disembodied with spirits embodied? And are these evanescent hues, these strange effects of light, these systems of opal-shadows, analogous to all those openings and shuttings of heart, those lights and darks of imagination, which come upon us in the experiences of life ? We are at the foot of the hill. It is well that we have a good horse, for it will be a stiff pull, such as tvould appal dainty riders. It is the old road up the mountain ; and is now principally used in hauling char- 156 A RIDE. coal. It is seldom repaired, and in many places, par- ticularly at the steepest parts, all that could be washed away has gone long ago, leaving nothing but ledges of rock, _and loose round stones, from the size of a hen's egg upward, indefinitely. Now we come to the first pitch. Loose the check-rein, and give the horse his own way. See how bravely he makes at the hill, quickening his step, and breaking into a series of jumps ; the wagon clatters and shakes, and bounds hither and thither, as if it were a great horse-rattle ! There 1 stop and breathe your nag ; pat him and praise him ; he understands you perfectly, and enjoys applause just as much as if he had but two legs instead of four. Do you notice what a profusion of growth there is about you, and what a fulness of health and perfection of green every vegetable has ? Perpetual moisture, and a right proportion of light and shade give here the best conditions of growth. The asters are beginning to fringe the way. Golden rod, one of the most regal of all late summer plants, waves its plumy head. Its little arching boughs, feathered with gold, light up the way-side, shine along the fence corners, and glow in patches all through the field; it follows you up the mountain- sides, glittering along the edges of the laurel-bush, splendidly pictured on the deep green and varnished leaves. A young leaf of the laurel, just come of age, in a favorable spot, is the perfection of leaves ! However, we must not run off into these things. Come, Charley, away with you: and away it is, sure enough ; bounce, clatter, thwack, up here, down a little A RIDE. 157 there, over this side, over upon that, and at length, at fall jump, up another pitch steeper than the last. Now, while he breathes, you may see that the next rise is steeper yet, and the next steeper than that; and if you could see around that turn of the road, as you will full soon enough, you would find another steeper than all of them put together. There is no more riding for the present. We must take it afoot, leaving the horse only an empty wagon to draw. For little silver- threaded streams are coming down the side of the rocks at every few rods ; there is also such variety and beauty of -leaf, and withal, such a hearty smell of the woods, that with occasional peeps at the distant country through forest and meadows, you find enough to tempt you to leisurely ascent ; to say nothing of other reasons for it which your feet find out. Now, then, we have come to the turn, right up to the left. Indeed, it is right up. When we first tried this road we had a heavier carriage and stopped it at this point. We will stop, again, but not for the same reason. Do you hear that noise ? Yes ! a storm is coming up — or is it the wind in the forest trees ? It is neither ; but the sound of a water-fall, mellowed to a deep, grand murmur. Fasten the horse, and let us turn off and see it; it is but a few moments' walk, but is worth many hours if you could not reach it sooner. There it opens-! It is but a few feet wide ; it drops a hundred feet right over the mountain's edge, to begin with, and white as snow; then it lovingly embraces an insensible rock, and dashes down beyond it a double fall, whiter than before. 158 A RIDE. Emboldened by its success, it now commences every species of fantastic caper that ever entered the imagina- tion of a mountain brook. It comes together and then widens over that shelving rock, rushing down into a crystal pool; then, like a watery hand, at the exit it divides into five fingers, each sparkling with myriads of diamonds. The alacrity with which the separated currents make haste to get together again after this feat, is amusing ; — the whirls, the side quirks, the petty impetuosities, the splitting and uniting, the plunging and emerging, until the distributed waters impool them- selves once more, and look back upon you with a grave and a placid face, as if they asked your forgiveness for past levity, and your pity for the serious experience which now awaits them below. For we are on the upper brink of another series of long down-plunges, each one of which would be enough for a day's study. Below these are cascades and pools in which the water whirls friskily around like a kitten running earnestly after its tail. But we will go no further down. These are the moun- tain jewels; the necklaces which it loves to hang down from its hoary head upon its rugged bosom. Shall we take out our tackle? That must be a glorious pool yonder for trout ! No, my friend, do not desecrate such a scene by throwing a line into it with piscatory intent. Leave some places in nature to their beauty, unharassed, for the mere sake of their beauty. Nothing could tempt us to spend an hour here in fishing ; — all the more because there is not a single trout in the whole brook. Indeed, this is an extemporaneous affair. Come A RIDE. 159 here next week and there will be scarcely a drop of water. It is a mere piece of amusement which storms get up for the occasion. After hea/y rains you may find it worth seeing, never else. Let us return. Now, well-rested Charley, let us put at that grand ascent. Nothing loath, he canters up with such right good will that we must run too, over stones, up' this bank, down that gully, bearing to the right over that ledge, close up to the left from that gully, round that point ; and, yonder is the top — not of the mountain, but of our journey. Now get in, and we will take the left fork of the road, leaving that log cabin, locked-up, to its solitude, that stands by the other (and regular) mountain road. We now wind pleasantly round the side of the mountain's upper cone, having a deep, gorge-like valley on our left, at the bottom of which roars one of the most romantic of all mountain streams — Sage's Brook, by name. Trotting along your leaf-covered" path, turning out, as best you may, for the heavy charcoal carts, whose home you have invaded, we will stop about two miles up, and leaving our horse to his oats in a rude stable, we will take our lunch, and go afoot along the road, till it crosses the upper part of Sage's Brook. Now rig out your rod. Among the bushes on the right see that stagnant stretch of water. It is the last place one would think of approaching for trout. Let us try. Here comes one ; there is another ; another, and another. Well, at length let us count — forty-two as sure as there is one — and that without moving from one spot. However, a little below this. 160 A RIDE. a clerical friend, of this vicinity, took eighty trout out of one pool ! To be sure they are small, but they are trout, and can afford to be small, they are so sweet and hard and every way good. Indeed, while we are up here we conceive a great contempt for those fat pound trout that feed in meadow brooks ! Who would wish them that could have mountain trout? We always prefer these small but superb fish — until we get down to the meadows. A half-pound trout, at the end of one's line, may produce a change in his mind. By following down this stream till it begins its de- scent on the east front of the mouutain, you will enter a gorge, called Sage's Ravine, which, if you love soli- tude, wildness, and beauty, will be worth all the pains you may take to climb through it. If it were possible, we should love to make the passage once in every month of the year. It is best entered from below. One requires a good foot, a strong hand, and a cool head, and then there is but little danger. It has been attempted successfully by ladies, and not one who ever explored it will regret the risk. And no one exploring the scenery in the vicinity of Salisbury should leave Sage's Ravine unvisited. IX. THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. Trouting in a mountain brook is an experience of life so distinct from any other, that every man should enjoy it once *at least. That being denied to most, the next best that I can do for you, reader, is to describe it. So, then, come on. We have a rod made for the purpose, six feet long, with only two joints, and a reel. We will walk up the mountain road, listening as we go to the roar of the brook on the left. In about a mile the road crosses it, and begins to lift itself up along the mountain side, leaving the stream at every step lower down on your right. You no more see it flashing through the leaves ; but its softened rush is audible at any moment you may choose to pause and listen. When the wind moves through the whole mountain side of trees, you think it to be the rush of the brook down some rock. But, when you stand to look down through some more open glade, and see the misty current, far down, changing like a wild dream, through woods the most strange and contrary, it seems to you as if its sound was the voice of all the woods sunk down to the bottom of the valley, and murmuring up to you, in soft and sad complaint. But you must see one thing before you wet the soles of your feet in the brook. Select a point from which you may look three miles down through the vast hollow, 162 THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. whose sides are mountains clad with forests. These huge trees you look down upon as if they were grass. When the winds move them, to the eye the swaying is like the shadowy roll of winds over a wheat field. The trees around us, handled by winds, have a slow and majestic swaying. Can it be that so grave a movement here, is represented far down yonder by that mere shivering and silvery trembling of the leaves ? Can yoii look upon this gorgeous summer richness and imagine a winter storm raging at the gorge ? Clouds scowling down, snow let loose from them, and whirled through the bare-branched trees, and then eddying down into dark clefts and frozen corners? Who can look at the one scene, winter or summer, and fully think of the other? Yet both reign alternately here. They who have come forth from towns and cities only in summer, to see the country, know little of the grandeur of mountains in winter. But we must return from this dream. A hot August day inclines one to reflect upon ice and snow. We will put into the brook just below a smart foamy fall. We have on cow-hide shoes, and other rig suitable. Selecting an entrance, we step in, and the swift stream attacks our legs with immense earnestness, threatening to take us off from them. A few minutes will settle all that, and make us quite at home. The bottom of the brook is not sand or gravel, but rocks of every shape, every position, of all sizes, bare or moss-covered. The stream goes over them at the rate of ten miles an hour. The descent is great. At every few rods cascades break THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. 163 over ledges, and boil up in miniature pools below. The trees on either side shut out all direct rays of the sun, and for the most part the bushes line the banks so closely, and cast their arms over so widely, that they create a twilight — not a gray twilight, as of light losing its luster, but a transparently black twilight, which softens nothing, but gives more ruggedness to the rocks, and a somber aspect even to the shrubs and fairest flowers. It is a great matter to take a trout early in your trial. It gives one more heart. It serves to keep one about his business. Otherwise, you are apt to fall off into unprofitable reverie ; you wake up and find yourself standing in a dream, half-seeing, half-imagining, under some covert of over-arching branches, where the stream flows black and broad among rocks, with moss green above the water and dark below it. But let us begin. Standing in the middle of the stream, your short rod in hand, let out twelve to twenty feet of line, varying its length according to the nature of the stream, and, as far as it can be done, keeping its position and general conduct under anxious scrutiny. Just here the water is mid-leg deep. Experimenting at each forward reach for a firm foot-hold, slipping, stum- bling over some uncouth stone, sliding on the moss of another, reeling and staggering, you will have a fine opportunity of testing the old philosophical dictum, that you can think of but one thing at a time. You must think of half a dozen ; — of your feet, or you will be sprawling in the brook; of your eyes and face, or 164 THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. the branches will scratch them ; of your line, or it will tangle at every step ; of your far-distant hook and dimly-seen bait, or you will lose the end of all your fishing. At first, it is a puzzling business. A little practice sets things all right. Do you see that reach of shallow water gathered to a head by a cross-bar of sunken rocks ? The water splits in going over upon a slab of rock below, and forms an eddy to the right and one to the left. Let us try a grasshopper there. Casting it in above, and guiding it by a motion of your rod, over it goes, and whirls out of the myriad bubbles into the edge of the eddy, when, quick as a wink, the water breaks open, a tail flashes in the air and disappears, but re-appears to the instant backward motion of your hand, and the victim comes sklittering up the stream, whirling over and over, till your hand grasps him, extricates the hook, and slips him into the basket. Poor fellow! you want to be sorry for him, but every time you try you are glad instead. Standing still, you bait again, and try the other side of the stream, where the water, wiping off the bubbles from its face, is taking toward that d^ep spot under a side rock. There ! you've got him ! Still tempting these two shores, you take five in all, and then the tribes below grow cautious. Letting your line run before you, you wade along, holding on by one branch and another, fumbling with your feet, along the jagged channel, changing hands to a bough on the left side, leaning on this rock, stepping over that stranded log. Kipping a generous hole in your «kirt as you THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. 165 leave it, you come to the edge of the petty fall. You step down, thinking only how to keep your balance, and not at all of the probable depth of water, till you splash and plunge down into a basin waist-deep. The first sensations of a man up to his vest pockets in water" are peculiarly foolish, and his first laugh rather faint. He is afterward a little ashamed of the alacrity with which he scrambles for the bank. A step or two brings him to a sand-bank and to himself. But while you are in a scrape at one end of your line, a trout has got into a worse one at the other. A little flurried with surprise at both experiences, you come near losing him in the injudicious haste with which you overhaul him. But see what a stately aster has ventured in hither In these black shades, through which the sun seldom penetrates, there is yet the light of flowers. What place is so dark that there is no light, if you only wait ' till the eye is used to its minute quantity ? and what place is so rugged and so homely that there is no beauty, if you only have a sensibility to beauty ? Bflt, by this flower, and by more which I dimly see through the bushes, and lower down, I judge that the forest is thin, and that we are coming to a more open space. The stream sweeps grandly' about an angle, and we open upon a bright, half-sunlighted reach of water. You emerge from a long shadowy archway of leaves and trees, and stand in the mouth of its darkness to look down upon that illuminated spot. The leaves, struck with light from above, are translucent in all their softer parts, while their opaque frame-work seems 166 THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. like pencil lines finely drawn upon their surface. The sunlight comes checkering through the leaves. They, moving to a gentle wind, seem to shake it off from themselves. It falls upon the uncovered surface of the whirling brook, and flashes back in inconstant and fragmentary glances. The very gravel glows beneath the lucid water. The moss upon the upheaved stones has a golden greenness as if it exhaled about itself an atmosphere of color. The rocks that creep down to the bank, covered too with moss-plush, take, in spots, a stray reflected light, and seem to be luminous rather than illuminated. A hemlock tree by the bank is covered to its top with a grape-vine, from among whose broad palms it shoots out its arms and finely cut foliage in vivid contrast. It is a green tent : a hollow spire. I would that it stood in my door-yard, close by that cottage which shines in the edge of that grove of old trees that I see in my imaginary grounds. This stream, too, ought to flow just behind that grove; and that gigantic grandly unshaped rock, which has been heaved out of its bed at some far distant day, and cast down here, crashing like a thunderbolt, — yes, I must have that in my grounds too ; — but, just here my foot slipped from the unsteady stone, and the vision burst like one of the bubbles at my feet, — as fair and as fragile. But look down below, through this sapphire and emerald atmosphere, and see the dark arches into which the stream presses headlong. The descent is greater there. And the water makes haste into the shadows while the trees frown upon it, and, as it wheels for THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. 167 a plunge, casts up pearl-drops that even in that gloom seem to emit a pale light. One could stand here by the hour. This rush of wild waters about your feet ; this utter lawlessness of power and beauty, so solitary, with such instant contrasts, with the sound of waters beneath and of leaves above, and you, alone and solitary, standing in the fascination until you seem to become a part of the scene. A strange sensation steals over you, as if you were exhaling, as if you were pass- ing out of yourself, and going into diffusive alliance with the whole scene ! You reel and start and wake up, saying, Well ! well ! this is not trouting ; and start off, forgetful of stones, crevices, slippery moss, and snags, as if you were in a level road. You are brought to a consciousness at your third step by a slip, a plunge, a full tumble, and find yourself, in the most natural manner, upon your hands and knees, making one more water-fall. You cannot help laughing at your ludi- crous posture, the water damming itself up upon you as unceremoniously as if you were a log, and making a pet eddy in the neighborhood of your breeches pocket. You even stop to sup up a mouthful of drink, and wish that somebody that knew you could only be peeping through the bushes at your predicament, they would get a great deal of innocent happiness at your expense, but not at your damage. Gathering up your awkward body you go dripping along down the stream, through the radiant spots into the dark, up to the falls, over which you peer, and, learning discretion from experience, you deem it best to 168 THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. take the shore and walk around the fall. You are repaid for the trouble by three trout, neatly slipped out of their aqueous nest into your willow basket. Step- ping in again, you pursue your way with various experience for a quarter of a mile, when you enter a narrow gorge. The rocks come down in a body to the stieam on either side. There are no side bushes. The way opens up through the air, far above you, to the receding mountain sides, upon which stand yet a few pines, spared of the axe, memorials of a vast brother- hood long since chopped away by the inexorable char- coalers. The very stream seems to take something of dignity from its surroundings. It gathers its forces, contracts its channels, darkens its surface, and moves down to a succession of falls, over which one feels no disposition to plunge. And so, climbing along the edges of the rock, prying into each crevice with your toes, grasping twig and root, bush or stem, you perch yourself mid-way, where you may see the fall above you, and the fall below you. Here you dream for a half hour — a waking, gazing dream. You study each shoot and indentation of the water — its bursts of crystal drops — ever changing, yet always the same. On the far side come down sheaves of water-stems. Nowhere is the water visible, and if you did not see the twinkling drops cast out their flash, you would think it a long harvest- shock, in some fairy field where grain bore diamonds transparent and colorless; from side to side, from top to bottom, within and without, it is struck through and through with air-mixed drops, so that it shoots down from top to bottom like a flow of pearls ana crystals THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. 169 The gulf beneath is ragged and ugly. Freshets in spring carrying the winter out of the mountains, ice and half-dissolved snow, surging white in black and furious waters, tear up, and carry over these cliffs, mighty trees. They plunge headlong, sticking fast where they strike, gaunt, upright, till time and the ele- ments strip them of bark and make them spectral and shadowy to all who look down upon them in that cavernous hollow, as I do now. How rich and various are the mosses in this ravine. You sit down upon their moist plush, and find minia- ture palms and fern-like branches, and all manner of real or fanciful resemblances. The flowers too, those humble friends, have not forsaken this wild glen. They have crept up to drink at the very edge of the water ; they hang secure and fearless from crevices on the face of the perpendicular rocks, and everywhere different species are retreating to their seed-forms or advancing to their bud, or are shaking their blossoms to the wind which comes up from the gorge below. Here indeed is good companionship — here is space for deep and strange joy. If the -thought of the city intrudes it seems like a dream ; it can hardly be real that there can be stacked houses, burning streets, reek- ing gutters, everlasting din of wheels, and outcry of voices, or that you were ever hustled along the up- roarious streets ! In this cool twilight, without a voice except of wind and waters, where all is primeval, solitary, and rudely beautiful, you seem to come out of yourself. Your life lifts itself up from its interior 8 170 THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. recesses, and comes forth. Your own nature — your longings — your hope and love — your faith and trust, seem to live with quiet and unshrinking life ; neither ruffled nor driven back, nor overlaid by all the contacts and burdens of multitudinous life in the city. O ! why may not one carry hence that freshness which he feels — that simplicity, that truthfulness to what is real, and that repugnance to all that is sham? Why may not one always find the way to heaven and to spiritual converse, as short and as facile as it is in these lonely mountains ? It was in such places that Christ loved to stray. It was in such places that he spent nights in prayer. I never linger long in such scenes without a thought of his example, and a sympathetic understanding of why it should be so. Christ's love of nature, his constant allusions to flowers, his evident familiarity with soli- tudes, as if he was never so little alone as when separated from all men, mark any degree of the same relish in us as-a, true and divine taste. \ But we must hasten on. A few more spotted spoils are awaiting us below. We make at the brook again. We pierce the hollow of over-hanging bushes, we strike across the patches of sun-light, which grow more frequent as we get lower down toward the plain; we take our share of tumbles and slips; we patiently extricate our entangled line, again and again, as it is sucked down under some log, or whirled around some network of beechen roots protruding from the shore. Here and there, we half forget our errand as we break THE MOUNTAIN STREAM. 171 in upon some cove of moss, where our dainty feet halt upon green velvet, more beautiful a thousand times than ever sprung from looms at Brussels or Kidderminster. At length we hear the distant clatter of mills. "We have finished the brook. Farewell — wild, wayward, simple stream ! As many as are all the drops that have flowed in your channels since we came, so many thoughts and joys have flowed down through our soul ! In a few moments you will be grown to a huge mill- pond ; then at work upon its wheel ; then, prim and proper, with ruffles of willow and aquatic bushes on each side, you will trip through the meadows, clatter across the road, and mingle with the More-brook, flow on toward the Housatonic — and be lost in its depths and breadths. For who will know thy mountain-drops in that promiscuous flood? Or who, standing on its banks, Avill dream from what scenes thou hast flowed, through what beauty — thyself the most beautiful ? X. A COUNTRY RIDE. Men never will see the country who fly through it at the rate of thirty or forty miles an hour. The usual path of railroads never lies through the most interest- ing portions. The very best method of traveling is upon horseback. Next best, if you are strong and hearty, or if you wish to become so, is foot-traveling. The pedes- trian is, in all respects, the most independent, and the best prepared to explore in detail. If you are on horseback, you can do more in a shorter period. You abbreviate the time and labor of passing over the intermediate space between you and the points of interest. Besides, there is more company in a spirited horse a thousand times than in a foolish man. You sit in your saddle at ease, giving him his own way, the bridle loose, while you search on either side the various features of the way. Your nag becom- ing used to you and you to him, a sympathetic connec- tion is established, and he always seems to do, of his own reflection, just what you w r ish him to do. Now a leisurely swinging walk, now a smart trot, then a spir- ited bit of a canter, which imperceptibly dies out into an amble, a pace, and then a walk again. When you rise a hill to overlook a bold prospect, Can anybody per- suade you that your horse does not enjoy the sight too? His ears go forward, his eve lights up with a large and A COUNTRY RIDE. 173 bright look, and he gazes for a moment with equine en- thusiasm, till some succulent bough or grassy tuft con- verts his taste into a physical form. A good horse is a perfect gentleman. He meets you in the morning with unmistakable pleasure ; if you are near the grain-bin, he will give you the most cordial invitation, if not to breakfast with him, at least to wait upon him in that interesting ceremony. His drinking is particularly nice. He always loves running water, in the clearest brook, at the most sparkling place in it. No man shall make me believe that he does not observe and quietly enjoy the sun-flash on the gravel beneath, and on the wavy surface above. He arches down his neck to the surface, his mane falls gracefully over his head, he drinks with hearty earnestness, and the throbbing swal- lows pulsate so audibly and musically that you feel a sympathetic thirst. Now he lifts his head, and looks first up the road to see who is coming, and then down the road, at those work-horses, turned loose, affecting gayety with their old stiff legs and hooped bellies, and then, with a long breath, he takes the after-drink. Once more lifting his head, but now only a few inches above the surface, the drops trickle from his lips back to the brook. Finally, he cleanses his mouth, and chews his bit, and plays with the surface of the water with his lithe lip, and begins to paw the stream. Guiding him out, you propose to yourself a real boy's drink. Selecting a favorable place, on a dry bank, where the stones give you a suitable rest, you lie flat down, at full length, and begin. Your luck will •* 174 A COUNTRY RIDE. depend upon your judgment of places and skill of per- formance. Should you be too dignified to lie down, you will probably compromise and kneel, awkwardly protruding your head to the edge, where a little pool breaks over a rim of rock ; thus you will be sure to send the first drops down the wrong way. Musical as is crystal water softly flowing over silver gravel, between fringed banks, its passage down the breathing tubes is anything but musical or graceful ; and you will have an episode with your handkerchief behind the bushes — coughing, crying, being greatly exercised in various ways. But if you are willing to be a real boy (and no one is a real man after he has lost out all the boy), then you must lie level with the stream, careless of grass or gravel, and apply your lips gently, just above the point of the ripple, where it breaks over the gravel, and you shall quietly and relishfully quench your thirst. If you be handsome, or think yourself so, you can regale your eyes, too, with a fair face, seen in that original mirror in which, long before quicksilver or polished metal, Adam and Eve made their toilet. There is yet an- other mode : with both your hands form a cup, by lap- ping the little finger of the left hand upon the corre- sponding part of the right, and then curving the whole in a bowl-form. A little practice will enable you to lift and drink from this ruby goblet with great ease, where the ground does not permit recumbency. A good pair of hands, such as ours, ought to hold two large and one small mouthfuls. But that will depend somewhat on the size of the mouth. A COUNTRY RIDE. 175 But it was not to tell you how to drink, nor how our good and companionable horse drinks, that this sheet was begun ; but to urge those who can command lei- sure in September or October, avoiding all beaten paths of pleasure, to make a tour through the mountain country of western Connecticut and Massachusetts. If you are young, and not abundant in means, and can get a friend to accompany you, go afoot. If you are able, go on horseback. If you wish to take your wife, your mother, or a sister, then a light, four-wheeled, covered buggy is to be elected. If there be three or four of you, take two horses and a two-seat light car- riage, with a movable top. Limit your articles of dress to a few, and those not easily torn or soiled ; for it is good and most morally wholesome for Americans once in a while to dress and to act, not upon the rule of " What will people think ?" but according to their own real necessities and conve- nience. And, above all, let every woman have a bloomer dress, for the sake of foot-excursions. In the city or town, our eye is yet in bondage to the old forms. But in the country, where the fields are to be traveled, the rocks climbed, brooks crossed and re- crossed, fences scaled, bushes and weeds navigsted, a woman in a long dress and multitudinous petticoats is a ridiculous or a pitia ble ob ject. Something is always catching; the party is detained till each woman can gather up her flowing robes, and clutch them in her left hand, while a shawl, parasol and bonnet-strings fill up the right hand. Thus she is engineered over and 176 A COUNTRY RIDE. around the rocks or logs; and, in spite of all pains and gallantry, returns home bedrabbled and ragged. A bloomer costume leaves the motion free, dispenses with half the help from without, and avoids needless exposure of one's person. If, ignorant of what is best, a fair friend is caught in the country without such suit- able dress, she is to be pitied, not blamed. But where one may have them, and rejects them for field-excur- sions as unbecoming and ridiculous, let me assure such foolish persons that it is the only dress that is really decent. I should think less of one's judgment and delicacy who, after a fair trial of both dresses, in an ex- cursion requiring much field- walking, was not heartily converted to the theory of Bloomerism and to its prac- tice in the country. Having dispatched preliminaries, we are now ready for our tour. If one has not leisure for detailed explo- rations, and can spend but a week, let him begin, say at Sharon, or Salisbury, both in Connecticut, and both accessible" from the Harlem railroad. On either side, to the east and to the west, ever-varying mountain- forms frame the horizon. There is a constant .succes- sion of hills swelling into mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills. The hues of green in trees, in grasses, and in various harvests, are endlessly con- trasted. There are no forests so beautiful as those made up of both evergreen and deciduous trees. At Salisbury, you come under the shadow of the Taconic range. Here you may well spend a week,. for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosity. Four A COUNTRY RIDE. 177 miles to the east are the Falls of the Housatonic, called Canaan Falls, very beautiful, and worthy of much longer study than they usually get. Prospect Hill, not far from Falls Village, affords altogether the most beautiful view of any of the many peaks with which this neighborhood abounds. Many mountain-tops of far greater celebrity afford less various and beautiful views. Near to it is the Wolf's Den, a savage cleft in the rocks, through which you grope as if you had for- saken light and hope for ever. On the west of Salis- bury you ascend Mount Riga to Bald Peak, thence to. Brace Mountain, thence to the Dome, thence to that grand ravine and its wild water, Bash-Bish — a ride, in all, of about eighteen miles, and wholly along the mountain-bowl. On the eastern side of this range, and about four miles from Norton's house, in Salisbury (where you will of course put up), is Sage's Ravine, which is the antithesis of Bash-Bish. Sage's Ravine, not without grandeur, has its principal attractions in its beauty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet most remarkable for grandeur. Both are solitary, rug- ged, full of rocks, cascades, grand waterfalls, and a savage rudeness tempered to beauty and softness by various and abundant mosses, lichens, flowers and vines. I would willingly make the journey once a month from New York to see either of them. Just beyond Sage's Ravine, very beautiful falls may be seen, after heavy rains, which have been named Nor- ton's Falls. Besides these and other mountain scenery — to which, 8* 178 A COUNTRY RIDE. if described, we must give a separate letter — there are the Twin Lakes on the north of Salisbury, and the two lakes on the south, around which the rides are ex- tremely beautiful. But they should always be after- noon rides; for these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full charms except at about an hour before sunset. The rides in all this neighborhood are very fine, and a week at Salisbury (if the weather be fine and your disposition reasonable) will be apt to , tempt you back, again and again. From Salisbury to Great Barington the road lies along the base of the mountains, and, indeed, is called the under-mountain road. Great Barington is one of those places which one never enters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of great numbers of the stateliest elms. It is a place to be de- sired as a, summer residence. Next, to the north, is Stockbridge, famed for its mea- dow-elms, for the picturesque scenery adjacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along a level plain, just under the rim of hills. If you wish to be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the summit of this encircling hill-ridge, in a summer's afternoon, while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic winds, in great circuits, all through the valley, carrying willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The horizon, on every side, is piled and ter- raced with mountains. Abrupt and isolated mountains bolt up here and there over the whole stretch of plain, covered with evergreens. Upon the northern ridge, A COUNTRY RIDE. 1 , i? lived the worthy Dr. West, known and honored among New England theologians. It is . but recently that his old house was demolished. And this very spot we came near purchasing for a summer house. But Stockbridge is memorable to us, chiefly, as the residence of Jonathan Edwards, once a missionary among the Indians. The colonial government, with singular wisdom, established among the Indians a desi- rable system of culture. Families of the utmost integ- rity were selected to live among them and teach them in mechanic arts, husbandry, and various social civili- zation. A religious teacher was also put in charge of their moral and, spiritual interests. And among these missionaries, Jonathan Edwards, after his dismission from Northampton, as a man too progressive in his tendencies, was by far the most remarkable. The house, where he lived, and in which he wrote his world-renowned treatise on the Will, still stands strong, and fair for another hundred years' existence. The very place where he sat to write this work — then a lit- tle writing closet, now a portion of the parlor — is to be seen by all who have curiosity in such matters. We often ride through this beautiful village in summer, and never, without driving down to the Edwards house, and going back in imagination to the simplicity and the humble devotedness of this man, in a field appa- rently the least fitted for one of his philosophic tastes. He seemed unconscious of greatness. He was not pestered, as smaller men are, with great solicitude lest they should be found in a field too small for the emi- 180 A COUNTRY RIDK. nence of their gifts. Around about Stockbridge are many charming rides, and places of curiosity for all to visit. An excellent hotel is kept, and is usually well filled in summer with refugees from the arid city. Going north four or five miles, we come to Lenox, known for the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air, and for the beauty of its mountain scenery. As it is to be hereafter our summer home, we shall be regarded as a partial witness in its favor. But, if one spends July or October in Lenox, they will hardly seek another home for summer. The church stands upon the highest point in the village, and if, in sum- mer, one stands in the door, and gazes upon the vast panorama, he might, without half of the Psalmist's devotion, prefer to stand in the door of the Lord's house, to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or mansion. Close by, and equally eminent, and rich in prospect, lies the village graveyard. No dark and sickly fogs ever gather at evening about it. It lies nearer heaven than any place about. It is good to have our mortal remains go upward for their burial, and catch the earliest sounds of that trumpet which shall raise the dead! Some talk has been made of rebuilding the church lower down in the village. Long may the day be dis- tant when it shall be done I The brightest thing in the village is the church upon the hill ! It was in the adjacent burial-ground that Mrs. Fanny Kemble Butler desired to rest when her work on earth was over. " I will not rise to trouble any one if they will let me A COUNTRY RIDE. 181 sleep there. I will ask only to be permitted, once in a while, to raise my head, and look out upon this glori ous scene !" May she behold one so much fairer, that this scenic beauty shall fade to a shadow ! From Salisbury to Williamstown, and then to Ben- ington in Vermont, there stretches a county of valleys, lakes and mountains, that is yet to be as celebrated as the lake-district of England and the hill-country of Palestine. XL FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. Salisbury, Conn., Sept. 16, 1858. During two summers we have found a home in this hill-country. We have explored its localities in every direction. The outlines of its horizon, its peaks and headlands, its mountains and gorges, its streams and valleys, have become familiar to us. It is a sad feeling that we have in going away. Nature makes so many overtures to those who love her, and stamps so many remembrances of herself upon their affections, and draws forth to her bosom so much of our very self, that, at length, the fields, the hills, the trees, and the various waters, become a journal of our life. In riding over from Millerton to Salisbury (six miles), for the last time, probably, for years, we could not but remark what a hold the face of the country had got upon us. This round hill on the left, as we draw near the lakes, it is our hill ! Hundreds of times we have greeted it, and been greeted ; we have bounded over it; in imagination we have built under those trees, and welcomed friends to our air-cottage. How often, at sunset, have we looked forth north, east, south and west, and harvested from each direction great stores of beauty and of joy. As we wound axound its base, a three-quarter's moon shining full and bright, the two lakes began to appear in silver spots through the trees. FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. 183 When we reached the summit of the road, they opened in full, and glimmered and shone like molten silver. For more beautiful sheets of water, and more beautiful sites from which to look at them, one may search far without finding. During a few days' absence the first frost has fallen The Reaper then has come! And this is the sharp sickle whose unwhetted edge will cut all before it! We had, before this, noticed the blood-red dogwood in the forests, and a few vines that blushed at full length, with here and there a maple in swamp-lands, that were prematurely taking bright colors. But now all things will hasten. Two weeks, and less, will bring October. That is the painted month. Every green thing loves to die in bright colors. The vegetable cohorts march glowing out of the year in flaming dresses, as if to leave this earth were a triumph and not a sadness. It is never Nature that is sad, but only we, that dare not look back on the past, and that have not its pro- phesy of the future in our bosoms. Men will sit down beneath the shower of golden leaves that every puff of wind will soon cast down in field and forest, and re- member the days of first summer and the vigor of young leaves ; will mark the boughs growing bare, and the increasing spaces among the thickest trees, through which the heavens every day do more and more ap- pear, as their leaves grow fewer and none spring again to repair the waste — and sigh that the summer passeth and the winter cometh. How many suggestions of his own life and decay will one find ! 184 FAEEWELL TO THE COUNTRY. But there is as much of life in autumn as of death, and as much of creation and of growth as of passing away, Every flower has left its house full of seeds. No leaf has dropped until a bad was born to it. Already, another year is hidden along the bougns ; another sum- mer is secure among the declining flowers. Along the banks the green heart-shaped leaves of the violet tell me that it is all well at the root ; and in turning the soil I find those spring beauties that died, to be only sleep- ing. Heart, take courage ! What the heart has once owned and had, it shall never lose. There is resurrec- tion-hope not alone in the garden-sepulchre of Christ. Every flower and every tree and every root are annual prophets sent to affirm the future and cheer the way. Thus, as birds, to teach their little ones to fly, do fly first themselves and show the way ; and as guides, that would bring the timid to venture into the dark-faced ford, do first go back and forth through it, so the yeai and all its 'mighty multitudes of growths walk in and out before us, to encourage our faith of life by death ,• of decaying for the sake of better growth. Every seed and every bud whispers to us to secure, while the leaf is yet green, that germ which shall live when frosts have destroyed leaf and flower. Is there any thing that the heart needs more than this ? Is there any thing that can comfort the heart out of which dear ones have fled, as birds flying out of and forsaking the trees where they were wonted to sit and sing, but the assurance of their speedy re-coming ? They are not silent eA^erywhere because they do not FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. 185 speak to us here. Their feet still walk, though no footfall may be in our houses. Thine, O Death, was the furrow; we cast therein our precious seed. Now let us wait and see what God shall bring forth for us. A single leaf falls — the bud at its axil will shoot forth many leaves. The husbandman bargains with the year to give back a hundred grains for each one buried. Shall God be less generous ? Yet, when we sow, our hearts think that beauty is gone out, that all is lost. But when God shall bring again to our eyes the hundred-fold beauty and sweetness of that which we planted, how shall we shame over that dim faith, that having eyes saw not, and ears heard not, though all heaven and all the earth appeared and spake, to com- fort those who mourn. And yet! and yet! — something sinks heavily down and weighs the heart too hardly. The future is bright enough ; but, the Now I This glorious vision, this hope and everlasting surety of the future, how shallow were life without it, and how deep beyond all fathoming with it ! The threads that broke in the loom here shall be taken up there. The veins of gold, that penetrate this mighty mountain of Time and Earth, shall then have forsaken the. rock and dirt, and shine in a sevenfold purity. All those wrongly estranged and separated, and all who, with great hearts, seeking good for men, do yet fall out and contend, and all they who bear about hearts of earnest purpose, longing to love, and to do, but hindered and baulked, and made to carry hidden fire in their souls that warms no one, but only burns the censer, and all 186 FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. they who are united for mutual discomfort, and all who are separated that should have walked together, and all that inwardly or outwardly live in a dream all their days, longing for the dawn and the waking, — to all such how blessed is the dawn of the Resurrection ! The stone is rolled away, and angels sit upon it; and all who go groping toward the grave to search for that which is lost, shall hear their voices teaching them that Heaven harvests and keeps whatever of good the earth loses. But we began to write for the sake of saying farewell to old Salisbury and to all its beautiful scenery. The enjoyment which one receives in an eight weeks' com- munion with such objects as abound here can not be measured in words. We are not ashamed to acknowl- edge that our last ride through the familiar places was attended with an overflow of gratitude, as intelligent and distinct as ever we experienced toward a living person. Why not? Did not God create the heavens and the earth full of benefactions? Did he not set forth all enchantments of morning and evening, all processes of the seasons, to be almoners of His own bounty ? God walks through the earth with ten thou- sand gifts which he finds no one willing to receive. Men live in poverty, in sadness and dissatisfaction, yearning and wishing for joy, while above them and about them, upon the grandest scale, with variations beyond record, are stores of pleasure beyond all ex- haustion, and incapable of palling upon the taste. When our heart has dwelt for a long time in these FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. 187 rc^alties, and has been made rich with a wealth that brings no care, nor burden, nor corruption, and that wastes only to burst forth with new treasures and sweeter surprises, we can not forbear thanksgiving and gratitude which fills the eye rather than moves the tongue. It is not alone thanks to God. By a natural process the mind gives sentient life to His messengers, and regards them as the cheerful and conscious stew- ards of divine mercy, and thanks them heartily for doing what God sent them to do. Nor can we forbear a sense of sorrow that that which was meant for so great a blessing to all men should be~wasted, upon the greatest number of men, either because they lack edu- cation toward such things, or lack a sensibility which produces enjoyment without an education. If there were an artist to come among us who could stand in Metropolitan Hall in the presence of a living assemblage, and work with such marvelous celerity and genius, that in a half-hour there should glow from his canvas a gorgeous sunset, such as flushes the west in an October day ; and then, when the spectators had gazed their fill, should rub it hastily out, and overlay it, in a twenty minutes' work, with another picture, such as God paints rapidly after sunset — its silver white, its faint apple-green, its pink, its yellow, its orange hues, imperceptibly mingling into grays and the black-blue of the upper arch of the heavens, to be rubbed out again, and succeeded by pictures of clouds — all, or any, of those extraordinary combinations of grandeur, in form and in color, that make one tremble 188 FAREWELL TO THE COUNTRY. to stand and look up; these again to be followed by vivid portraitures of more calm atmospheric conditions of the heavens, without form or vapor; and so on endlessly, — such a man would be followed by eager crowds, his works lauded, and he called a gou. He would be a god. Such is God. So he fills the heavens with pictures, strikes through them with effacement that he may find room for the expression of the endless riches of the divine ideas of beauty and majesty. "The heavens declare the glory of God, and the firmament showeth his handiwork." The Psalmist then boldly personifies days and nights, as if they were sentinels and spectators, each as it passes from his watch re- hearsing what it had seen: "Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge." We are thankful that our incarceration in the city, though, it shuts out all these things, can not efface the memory of a summer's happiness. That glows and lives again, and will be a sweet twilight on our path, till another season and another vacation. XII. SCHOOL REMINISCENCE. It was our misfortune, in boyhood, to go to a Dis- trict School. A little, square, pine building, blazing in the sun, stood upon the highway, without a tree for shade or shadow near it; without bush, yard, fence or circumstance to take off its bare, cold, hard, hateful look. Before the door, in winter, was the pile of wood for fuel; and there, in summer, were all the chips of the winter's wood. In winter we were squeezed into the recess of the furthest corner, among little boys, who seemed to be sent to school merely to fill up the chinks between the bigger boys. Certainly we were never sent for any such absurd purpose as an education. There were the great scholars ; the school in winter was for them, not for us piccaninies. We were read and spelled twice a day, unless something happened to prevent, which did happen about every other day. For the rest of the time we were busy in keeping still. And a time we always had of it. Our shoes always would be scraping on the floor, or knocking the shins of urchins who were also being "educated." AH of our little legs together (poor, tired, nervous, restless legs, with no- thing to do!) would fill up the corner with such a noise, that every ten or fifteen minutes the master 190 SCHOOL REMINISCENCE. would bring down his two-foot hickory ferule on the desk with a clap that sent shivers through our hearts to think how that would have felt if it had fallen somewhere else ; and then, with a look that swept us all into utter extremity of stillness, he would cry, " Si- lence! in that corner!" Stillness would last for a few minutes ; but, little boys' memories are not capacious. Moreover, some of the boys had great gifts of mischief, and some of mirthfulness, and some had both together. The consequence was, that just when we were the most afraid to laugh, we saw the most comical things to laugh at. Temptations which we could have vanquished with a smile out in the free air, were irresistible in our little corner where a laugh and a stinging slap were very apt to woo each other. So, we would hold on, and fill up ; and others would hold on and fill up too ; till, by and by, the weakest would let go a mere whiffet of a laugh, and, then, down went all the precautions, and one went off, and another, and another, touching off the others like a pack of fire-crackers ! It was in vain to deny it. But, as the process of snapping our heads and pulling our ears went on with primitive sobriety, we each in turn, with tearful eyes and blubbering lips, declared "we didn't mean to," and that was true; and that "we wouldn't do so any more," and that was a fib, however unintentional; for we never failed to do just so again, and that about once an hour all day long. Besides this, our principal business was to shake and shiver at the beginning of the school for very cold; and to sweat ami stew for the rest of the time, before SCHOOL REMINISCENCE. 191 the fervid glances of a great box iron stove, red hot. There was one event of great horror and two of pleas- ure; the first was the act of going to school, in which is to be comprised the leaving off play, the face-washing and clothes-inspecting, the temporary play-spell before the master came, the outcry, "There he is — the master is coming," the hurly-burly rush, and the noisy clatter- ing to our seats. The other two events of pleasure were the play-spell and the dismission. O, dear ! can there be any thing worse for a lively, mercurial, mirth- ful, active little boy, than going to a winter district- school ? Yes. Going to a summer district-school ! There is no comparison. The last is the Miltonic depth below the deepest depth. A woman kept the summer school, sharp, precise, unsympathetic, keen and untiring. Of all ingenious ways of fretting little boys, doubtless her waj^s were the most expert. Not a tree was there to shelter the house. The sun beat down on the shingles and clap- boards till the pine knots shed pitchy tears, and the air was redolent of warm pine-wood smell. The benches were slabs with legs in them. The desks were slabs at an angle, cut, hacked, scratched, each year's edition of jack-knife literature overlaying its predeces- sor, until in our day it already wore cuttings and car- vings two or three inches deep. But if we cut a morsel, or stuck in pins, or pinched off splinters, the little sharp- eyed mistress was on hand, and one look of her eye was worse than a sliver in our foot, and one nip of her fin- gers was equal to a jab of a pin ; — for we had tried both. 192 SCHOOL REMINISCENCE. We envied the flies — merry fellows, bouncing about, tasting that apple skin, patting away at that crumb of bread ; now out the window, then in again ; on j^our nose, on your neighbor's cheek, off to the very school- ma'am's lips, dodging her slap, and then letting off a real round and round buzz, up, down, this way, that way, and every way. O, we envied the flies more than any thing, except the birds. The windows were so high that we could not see the grassy meadows ; but we could see the tops of distant trees, and the far, deep, bounteous blue sky. There flew the robins; there went the bluebirds, and there went we. We followed that old Polyglott, the skunk-blackbird, and heard him describe the way they talked at the winding up of the Tower of Babel. We thanked every meadow-lark that sung on, rejoicing as it flew. Now and then a " chip- ping-bird" would flutter on the very window-sill, turn its little head sidewise, and peer in on the medley of boys and girls. Long before we knew that it was in Scripture, we sighed — 0, that we had the wings of a bird — we would fly away and be out of this hateful school. As for learning, the sum of all that we ever got at a district-school would scarcely cover the first ten letters of the alphabet. One good, kind, story-tell- ing, Bible-rehearsing aunt at home, with apples and gingerbread premiums, is worth all the school-ma'ams that ever stood by to see poor little fellows roast in those boy-traps called district-schools. But this was thirty-five years ago. Doubtless it is all changed long since then. We mean inside; for SCHOOL REMINISCENCE. 193 certainly there are but few school-houses that we have seen in New England whose outside has much changed. There is a beautiful house here in Salisbury, Conn., just on the edge of the woods. It is worth going miles to see how a school-house ought to look. But generally the barrenest spot is chosen, the most utterly homely building is erected, without a tree or shrub ; and there those that can do no better, pass the pilgrimage of their childhood education. "We are prejudiced, of course. Oui views and feel- ings are not to be trusted. They are good for nothing except to show what an effect our school-days left upon us. We abhor the thought of a school. We do not go into them if we can avoid it. Our boyhood expe- rience has pervaded our memory with such images as breed a private repugnance to district-schools, which we fear we shall not lay aside until we lay aside every- thing into the grave. We are sincerely glad that it ia not so with everybody. There are thousands who re- vert with pleasure to those days. We are glad of it. But we look on such persons with astonishment. 9 XIII, THE VALUE OF BIRDS. Sporstmen, Beware. — The last Legislature enacted that it shall not be lawful in the State of New Jersey for any person to shoot, or in any other manner to kill or destroy, except upon his own premises, any of the following description of birds: the night or mosquito hawk, chimney swallow, martin or swift, whippoorwill, cuckoo, kingbird or bee martin, woodpecker, claip or highhole, catbird, wren, bluebird, meadow lark, brown thresher, dove, fire-bird or summer redbird, hanging bird, ground robin or chewink, boblink or rice bird, robin, snow or chipping bird, sparrow, Carolina lit, warbler, blackbird, bluejay, and the small owl. The penalty is five dollars for each offence, or for the destruction of the eggs of such birds. — Tribune. What is a bird good for? What dainty sentimen- talism has set a stupid Legislature at such enactments ? Not so fast. Although we should greatly respect a Legislature that had the humanity to think of birds among other constituent bipeds, yet experience has taught farmers and gardeners the economic value of birds. There are no such indefatigable entomologists as birds. Audubon and Wilson never hunted for speci- men birds with such perseverance as birds themselves exhibit in their researches. They depasture the air, they penetrate every nook and corner of thicket, hedge and shrubbery, they search the bark, pierce the dead wood, glean the surface of the soil, watch for the spade- trench, and follow the furrow for worms and larvae. A THE VALUE OF BIRDS. 195 single bird in one season destroys millions of insects for its own food and for the supply of its nest. No com- putation can be made of the insects which birds devour. We do not think of another scene more inspiriting than the plowing season, in this respect. Bluebirds are in the tops of trees practicing the scales, crows are cawing as they lazily swing through the air toward their companions in the tops of distant dead and dry trees ; robins and blackbirds are wide awake, searching every clod that the plow turns, and venturesome al- most to the farmer's heels. Even boys relent, and seem touched by the birds' appeal to their confidence, and, until small fruits come, spare the birds. Bob'o'links begin to appear — the buffoon among birds, and half sing and half fizzle. How our young blood sparkled amid such scenes, we could not tell why ; neither why we cried without sorrow or laughed without mirth, but only from a vague sympathy with that which was Deautiful and joyous. Were there ever such neat scavengers ? Were there ever such nimble hunters? Were there ever such adroit butchers? No Grahamitic scruples agitate this seed-loving and bug-loving tribe. They do not show their teeth to prove that they were designed for meat They eat what they like, wipe their mouths on a limb, return thanks in a song, and wing away to a quiet nook to doze or meditate, snug from the hawk that spheres about far up in the ether. To be sure, birds, like men, have a relish for variety. There are no better pomologists. If we believed in 196 THE VALUE OF BIRDS. transmigration we shouM be sure that our distinguished fruit-culturists could be traced' home. Longworth was a brown-thresher; Downing a lark, sometimes in the dew and sometimes just below the sun ; Thomas was a plain and sensible robin ; junior Prince was a bob'o'link, irreverently called skunk-blackbird ; Ernst a dove ; Parsons a woodpecker ; Wilder a kingbird. We could put our finger, too, upon the human blackbird, wren, bluejay, and small owl, but prudence forbids ; as it also does the mention of a certain clerical mocking-bird that makes game of his betters ! But we wander from the point. We charge every man with positive dishonesty who drives birds from his garden in fruit-time. The fruit is theirs as well as yours. They took care of it as much as you did. If they had not eaten egg, worm, and bug, your fruit would have been pierced and ruined. They only come for wages. No honest man will cheat a bird of his spring and summer's work. XIV. A ROUGH PICTURE FROM LIFE. It is a fine thing to be a conservative of the benevo- lent class. Inheriting a fine old mansion, amid orchards, and gardens, and lawns, and surrounded by old trees, whose mighty arms waved joyfully when he was born, and have discoursed noble music to his ear ever since — the happy, kind, even-minded dreamer dreads all change. His' nest is snug, and he is afraid to lose a single egg by the hand of thievish innovation. In the sunny parlor he reads his daily conservative journal, ratifies its curses, and thinks he hates all whom it stig- matizes. His sides grow fat, his face grows round, his head grows bald, his heart grows mellow to all who know its sunny side. Meanwhile, the schools must be supported — yes, schools are ancient institutions, and he patronizes schools. The academy must be built — and there are century-old precedents for academies — so he approves of them. All the boys are exhorted to go to school, and all the maidens are there to keep the boys out of mischief. Now it will never do to educate Yankee lads and lasses, if it is a sin to think, and if thinking errs when it leads to action. Accordingly, so many girls are growing up who, finding themselves able to govern their parents, aspire to be teachers of schools ; and so many inventive, thinking boys are brewing 198 A ROUGH PICTURE FROM LIFE. schemes and improvements, that, in a half-score of years, our kind old conservative finds much mysterious mischief abroad. Where it could have come from, he can not imagine. There are new fashions and new architecture, new halls and new churches, new minis- ters and new lawyers. Meanwhile, the neighboring valley, child of a moun- tain-gorge a little back, and borrowing its brook, has shown signs of evil. A dam has raised the brook to an ominous pond, which trout scorn and frogs love. Gaunt mills go up, shanties abound, Irish fairies are digging under ground and over ground, in the water and out of the water, powder drilled into rocks is split- ting them open with surprise. Alas ! there is no more quiet for our kind old heart; his walks are circum- scribed, his influence wanes, his prejudices grow, his quails and his partridges, his spring blackbirds, his bluebirds and robins, are driven into close quarters or utterly dispersed. Ten thousand daily feelings vex his soul. The fac- tory-village eats up his quiet. Its roughness, its va- rious impertinences, its night and day clatter, all offend him. He retreats more desperately to his paper, and holds back with all his might. But time has a temptation for him that he did not estimate. His own grounds are wanted. Through that exquisite dell which skirts along the northern side of his estates, where he has wandered, book in hand, a thousand times, monarch of squirrels, bluejays and partridges, his only companions and subjects — are A ROUGH PICTURE FROM LIFE. 199 seen peering and spying those execrable men that turn the world upside down, civil engineers and most uncivil speculators. Alas! the plague has broken out. His ground is wanted — is taken — is denied — is daily smoked by the passage of that modern thunder-dragon, drag- ging its long tail of cars. A jury of his own towns- men, after gravely estimating the case and considering his demand for ten thousand dollars damages, frankly admit the claim, but offset it with a judgment that hL property is increased in value at least twenty thousand. But that will never pay for his robins, his quails, his autumnal quiet, his evening strolls and his trout brook. They have spoiled one of God's grandest pictures by slashing it with a railroad, but declare that the frame has been enough improved to make up for the picture. Who that has a spark of nature or the love of nature in him, would not be a conservative ? After this we quite enjoy to hear him drub the world in general and all modern improvements in particular. Nevertheless his sturdy son, stealing upon paternal pride, and very quietly and reverently governing his governor, has per- suaded the sale of a few lots. You know the rest. A man may, peradventure, withstand an Eve in Paradise; an Abdiel may be found; but a man proof against speculations in town lots, which to-day are worth a, hundred dollars and to-morrow a thousand, you may search the earth through and you shall not find. And so this place is gone. The old mansion, driven up more sharply every } r ear, has lost its orchard, has lost its meadows, has lost that long slope, has a rail 200 A ROUGH PICTURE FROM LIFE. fence crooking like a serpent through the middle of its gardens, with a hundred Irish imps whooping in and out of shanties on the other side, where the old mul- berry tree stood and the best currant bushes grew that ever hung with fruit like drops of blood. At last, the poor stately old house, standing askew by reason of the streets that have cut in on every side, goes, like its master, to ruin. For such conservatives we have a genuine sympathy. There is something very natural in the whole process ; and the appeal is rather to our pity than our censure. XV. A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON". It is difficult to choose between the scenery of the ocean side and inland scenery, if one were to have the liberty of but one of them. Both of them take hold of the imagination with great power ; both are stimulating and yet soothing. But they act upon the mind in very different ways. The power of the mind to animate natural objects with its own emotions, and gradually to clothe external objects with the attributes and experiences of the soul, is well known. The place where any event in our his- tory has occurred becomes a memorial of the feelings which that event excited in us. The walk which for years our feet have trod in hours of meditation, is no longer a dry path, half leaf-covered, obscure among the underbrush, or sinuous along the summit of the over- looking bluff. It has become intrusted with our deep- est sensations. It speaks to us, and we talk with it. It is a journal of our gradual experiences. A rock, under whose sides we have been wont to commune with God, and dream of the future, can never assume a merry face or an irreverent demeanor. The home- trees, under which we sit with daily friends, become social and familiar ; those which our solitude seeks out, and under which we take refuge from men, whose whispering boughs charm our cares, or whose silence 9* 202 ' A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. descends from far-up branches, to quiet our fears or sorrows — become sacred companions. Thus, too, cer- tain places — bends in a river, nooks in a mountain side, clefts in rocks, sequestered dells — have their imputed life. Whenever we come back to these places it is as when one reads old letters, or a journal of old experi- ences, or meets old friends, that bring thronging back with them innumerable memories and renewed sensa- tions of pleasure or sadness. The ocean can not produce such effects. Whatever may be the sources of its power, it does not depend upon association. The ocean has no permanent objects. The waves of yesterday are gone to-day ; and the calm of to-day will be tumultuous to-morrow. The very effect of the sea, in part, depends upon its exceeding changeableness. Upon what can we hang our associa- tions ? The line of coast supplies a partial resource, but the sea none. It has no nooks, or dells, or caves, or overhanging rocks, which, once formed, abide for ever. It has no perpetual boughs or enduring forests. Its mountains are liquid, and flow down in the very same moment that they lift themselves up. The wide and whole sea, as a great One, to be sure, comes to us always the same ; but its individual features are always strangers. Its waves are always new waves; its rip- ples are always formed before us; its broad and un- crested undulations are fresh and momently produced. If we go down to the shore to mourn for those who shall not come forth from the deep till the archangel's trump shall bring forth its dead, though we shed A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. 208 daily tears for weary months, they treasure up no asso- ciations in the rolling waters or bright-glancing calms. If the place becomes sacred, it is the shore, the sur- rounding rocks or sand-hills, and not the ever-born, ever-dying waves. The operation of these causes extends to level coun- try scenery. The mind seldom wishes to trust much to a level and insipid country. The inhabitants of such plains form but feeble local attachments. But those who are mountain-born become so intensely attached to their familiar places, that when removed from them, home-sickness becomes a disease, and preys upon the frame like a fever or a consumption. The scenery of the sea addresses itself to a different part of our being. It speaks more to the imagination \ than to the affections\giving fewer objects for analysis or examination ; for ever throwing off the eye by revo- lutions of form and changeableness, and refusing to become familiar in those patient and gentle ways of companionship that venerable forests and benignant mountains assume. The sea is not a lover and friend, but an inspirer and an austere teacher. Trees soothe us and comfort us by sympathy. We still stand in our sorrows, or yearnings, or sadness ; but they speak to us with ten thousand airy voices or melodious whisper- ings, and, mingling better thoughts and faith with our fretful experience, they sweeten the heart without washing away its thoughts with utter forgetful ness. But the sea forces life away from us. We stand upon its shore as if a new life were opening upon us, 204 A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. and we were in the act of forgetting the things that are behind, and reaching forth unto those which are before and beyond. The unobstructed distance, the far hori- zon line, on which the eye only stops, but over which -the imagination bounds, and then first perceives plainly where the eye grows dim ; the restless change, the sense of endless creative power, the daily and some- times hourly change of countenance, that makes you think that the ocean revolves deep experiences in its bosom, and reveals distinctly upon its mutable face expressions of its peace, or sorrow, or joy, or struggle and rage, or victory and joyfulness; — these are pheno- mena that excite us, and carry us away from life, away from hackneyed experiences. When we retire from the seaside we come back to life as if from a voyage, and familiar things have grown strange. A frequent and favorite ride, with us, is to Fort Hamilton. It lies, in part, upon the Long Island side of New York Bay and the Narrows, and terminates a little beyond the Fort, where, between the dim sand- points of Coney Island on the left, and the Hook on the right, the ocean stretches out itself. It is an autumnal day ; the leaves are changed, but not fallen. The air is mild and genial. The carriage stands at the door ; the mother is ready, the friends are waiting, and Charley paws impatiently. Away we go rattling over the noisy pavement, enduring rather than enjoying, till we reach the toll-gate. • This passed, the fresh sea-smell comes across the Bay, and we look out upon heaps of seaweed on our right, odorous in its pe- A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. 205 culiar and not disagreeable way. The bay is specked with sails. Staten Island stands boldly up on the far side, a noble frame to so beautiful a picture as New- York Bay. The Avheels roll softly over the smooth causeway till we enter the street of Gowanus, when again we quake and shake for a long mile over execrable pavements, poorly laid at first, and through daily use, grown daily worse. For, O my friends, this is Death's highway. Here, through almost every hour of the day, he holds his black processions to Greenwood. And now we reach the corner which leads to the Funeral Gate ; this is the corner guarded with oysters, liquor and cakes, on one side, and a thriving marble-cutting, monument- making business, on the other. It is quite American. One reflects with peculiar emotions upon these happy national conjunctions of dissipation, commerce, and death-rest. But, after all, is not this an unconscious type of life? Is there not every day, if we would see it, just as terrible a mingling of things sacred and pro- fane ? And yet it is painful always and increasingly, that there is not in the public mind enough of taste, or of sentiment, or of superstition, to keep the sor- did hucksters from shoving their bar and booth up to the very cheeks of death and the grave ! Or, must the last sounds that smite the dead man's coffin bear wit- ness of the spirit, of that great, sordid den from which he has departed and is departing? Cut away, then, mason, as the mother follows hex- babe to its peaceful bed; tempt her with your marble 206 A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. cherubs, set your lambs in inviting array, and coax her sorrow to buy an angel, or a marble mourner ! How grateful to a sorrowful heart to see that you have been expecting him, that you have reckoned that it would come to this soon ! You are all ready for a bargain, just as the undertaker was before you. The undertaker has his ostentatious coffins, his show-windows, brilliant with decorated coffins, where a man is tempted to stop and examine the latest fashion of a coffin — a perfect gem of a thing. One can refresh himself at a hundred places in the city with such agreeable sights, and have explanations thrown in for nothing. If your vanity is susceptible, it will be gratifying to know that a connois- seur of coffins thinks and assures you that you would make one of the most genteel corpses. Pah ! the clink of hammers on marble is harsh discord. This money- making out of sorrow and death ; this driving a trade upon the occasions of others' misery, over griefs that dissolve the very heart, how it adds an element of horror to all the other pangs of bereavement ! Neither will we turn in at the second entrance, which is for company who come to gaze. It is Death's ground. AJ1 over it he has set up his ban- ners of Victory. What has the heart to do there ? Why should we wish to see the weakness, the dis- honor of our mortal bodies? Was it not enough to pray with vain anguish for their life ; to struggle with both oars against the stream that was sweeping them clown toward death, and be yet borne downward ? Was not the darkness, the stillness, the burden of lone- A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. 207 someness, the changed aspect of men and the world, the thrusting in upon us by invisible power of huge and dark distresses, enough? "Why should we go in to weep afresh ? to wish that we were dead ? to hear the trees sigh, and the song of birds changed, so that their very glee is sad to the ear? How morbid is life when the light is black,, and flowers are mockers, and leaves are hoarse, and birds and every living thing and the whole atmosphere are but a brooding of sorrow ! Then let us hasten past the great bosom of Greenwood and leave her alone to nurse the dead. "We are for other scenes ; for now we come to a little rustic church on the right, around which we turn and hasten toward the water. The way is narrow, the road smooth, the sides hedged with trees and bushes, and many evergreens intermixed. We emerge. There lies the narrowing Bay. Up through the Narrows come the weary ships that have struggled bravely with the ocean, and are come home to rest. They look grateful . Their sails are loosely furled. They submit themselves to steam-tugs with a resigned air, as if it was fit, after so great a voyage, that they should rest from toil. Down come ships from the city, some with sails and some towed, but all eager, fresh painted, vigorous in aspect, and ready to pitch into storm and spray. Little boats skip about like insects. Sloops and schooners, with snow-white sails, are busying themselves with just as much self-respect and look of usefulness as if they had the tunnage of the hugest ship ! As we draw near the Fort, the lower bay opens. 208 A RIDE TO FORT HAMILTON. Shadows divide the light into sections along the sur- face. The whole expanse is full of little undulations that quiver and gleam, as if from beneath the water myriads of fire-fish flashed their light. But all these things we see the more thoroughly when we return. Now the eye searches the horizon. There are the faint ships dying out of sight, outward bound. That speck yonder, far in the horizon, is not a ship — but a mote such as dances before the eye strained to penetrate an empty distance. Yet a little while, and it has the semblance of a cloud. It gathers substance before you, and, ere long, swells its airy proportions into the un- doubted form of a ship carrying every bit of sail that can be made to cling to the spars ! We turn the carriage from the road ; we grow silent and thoughtful ; we gaze and think. We fly away from the eye, and see the world beyond the horizon ; we hover over ships upon the equator, we outrun the Indiaman, and double the Horn ; we dart away west- ward and overlook that garden of islands, the Pacific ! If one speaks, the charm breaks, the fairies fly, the vision is gone, and we are back, again ! Now you may see that noblest of all ocean sights, for beauty, a full- rigged ship under full sail ! A man that can look upon that and feel nothing