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' o .-^' O « ' >>o \/ /M^^' U A^- /^V/K^ "-^^^ .V '■^', ^O rO" -n^o^ .^^ .^^ G' ^°-^^. c" ■> y A ^ S % y^'^ <^^'«koul Mountain-" We've whipped 'em, general "-Congress presents Grant with a gold mcdal-Is made Lieutenant-General— Recollections of Grant. . 113 CHAPTER VIII. ne -rcnRlh of ,hc army-Grant states the strength of the Confederates-Position of the Confederate army-In the Wilderness-Grant's proposed line of warfare -Tb. Monrof a severe struggle-Advancing and retreating-Moving toward CO^'TENTS. 9 Richmond — Some shrewd engineering — On the banks of the Chickahominy — A terrible battle — Lee proceeds to Richmond — Grant proposes to lay siege to Peters- burg — Mining the enemy's works^Grant receives a visitor — " No sanitary folks wanted" — The expedition to Deep Bottom — The sympathy of Grant — His letter to a lonely heart — Butler attacks Fort Harrison — A letter from the President — A tribute from Scott — Philadelphia presents him with a home 128 CHAPTER IX. {Preparing for a final movement — Lee attacks Grant — Jeff Davis receives a dispatch — " Richmond must be evacuated to-night " — An exciting scene — Richmond oc- cupied by Union troops — Lincoln visits Richmond — " Glory ! glory ! " — Grant pur- sues Lee — Sheridan intercepts Lee — The latter flees — Grant pursues — His letter to Lee — Lee's reply — Daring Custer — Appomattox — Lee's surrender — What General Mahone said of the surrender — Lee's last order — A Union soldier's de- scription of the closing scene of the war 145 CHAPTER X. Grant's farewell to his soldiers — Makes a tour through the Northern States — His re- ception at Galena — Makes a tour through the South — His view of its condition — "General Orders No. 3" — Suppression of the Richmond Examiner — A recep- tion by the leather dealers of New York — Is presented with ;$ioo,ooo — Recep tion at Brooklyn Academy of Music — Is made General in the regular army — His letter to General Ord 104 CHAPTER XL Grant's opinion on the parole question — Grant appointed Secretary of War ad interim — He opposes the removal of Stanton — Flis tribute to Sheridan — He re- signs the position as Secretary of War — President Johnson scolds 173 CHAPTER XII. Grant a President — The causes which led to his being nominated — His election and votes — A summary of his political career — Some of the greater incidents of his White House life — San DonungOT-^Finance-^The Alabama arbitration — The Centennial Exhibition — The close of his public service — The third term — His last message to the nation 181 CHAPTER XIII. General Grant leaves Philadelphia — Entlnisiastic ovations — Across the ocean — In- teresting incidents — Welcome to England — At Liverpool — Sights and scenes in the great city — A tribute from the press — An incident — Departure for Manchester — Grand reception — Arrives in London — Epsom races— Pierrepont gives a reception 10 CONTENTS. —The freedom of the city of London— Reception by the corporation of London —Grant at Kensington— A visit to the Queen— Off for Belgium 211 CHAPTER XIV. Arrival at Brussels— Lucerne, Switzerland— Geneva — The Mer de Glace — Edin- burgh— Tay Bridge— At the home of Sir Walter Scott— Glasgow— Brighton- Paris " Palais d' Industrie" — McMahon gives a dinner — Grant at the tomb of Thiers — The Mackey dinner and reception 228 CHAPTER XV. The party reach Naples — Young's letter — Vesuvius as seen from the city — The road to the mountain — The ascent — Overlooking Pompeii — A romantic picnic on the lava — Glimpses of social and political life in Naples — A day among the ruins of Pompeii — The city of Hannibal and Cxsar — The museum — The excavation — Bronze Ornaments 245 CHAPTER XVI. Off for Malta — Scylla and Charybdis — Among the scenes of Paul's travels — En route for Alexandria — The Marquis— Alexandria — Henry M. Stanley — A call on the Khedive — Meeting old friends 260 CHAPTER XVII. Cairo and the Nile — Life on the river — Domestic scenes — Friends on the way — Assiout — Tomb of the Kings — The home of Wasip el Hayat — Girgel — The Libyan Desert — Grand old ruins — Isis and Osiris 276 CHAPTER XVIIL Thebes — Luxor— The home of Rameses — Temples and statues — A Theban dinner — Karnak and its wonderful sights — The Sacred Lake — Who was Rameses ? — Resemblance to Lord Beaconsfie.d — Marks of the races 293 CHAPTER XIX. Still ascending the Nile— Keneh— Eastern pottery— Domestic life — A visit to the Pach.!— Assonan— The bazaars— Making purchases— Philre— On board a daha- bceah— Memphis— The Serapcum— .\Iariette Bay— Among the tombs— Farewell to Memphis oqq CHAPTER XX. Tlio Holy Liiid— Its sacred associations— General Grant's visit— Landing at Jaffa CONTENTS. 11 Ramleh — Ride to Jerusalem — Triumphal entry into the Holy City — In and around Terusalem — Walk over the Via Dolorosa — The garden of Gethsemane — Damascus — Smyrna — Constantinople — A vLsit to the Sultan — A princely gift — The slave market — The Mosque of the Sultan — Athens and the Acropolis — Mars' Hill— Corinth 321 CHATTER XXI. The Eternal City — Roman honors — Genoa — They return to Paris — Holland — Dutch festivities — Berlin — An interview with Prince Gortschakoff — A visit to Bismarck — Reviewing the troops — Copenhagen — Through the Black Forest — Sweden and Norway — St. Petersburg — An interview with the Czar — Moscow — Warsaw — En route for Spain ... 34-i CHAPTER XXII. A message from the King of Sjiain — San Sebastian — Vittoiia — Meeting the Spanish King — The dead Queen — Madrid — The Escurial — The library — Tlirough the royal apartments — Disappointed expectations — The tomb — Pliilip 361 CHAPTER XXIII. Grant visits Toledo — The Cathedral — The work of the Moors — Pau — Fox-hunting — An exciting occasion — The start — The meet — The finish — Lislxsn — Meeting the King of Portugal — Literary efforts — Cintra — Montserrat — Portugal 7.'s. Spain 370 CHAPTER XXIV. Cordova-^The Mosque — They reach Seville — Grant visits the Duke of Montpensier — The run from Cadiz — Gil:)raltar — Trafalgar — Doing Grant honors — Ireland — Dublin — Reception by the Lord JLayor — Grant becomes an Ulster Irishman — Ovations all along the line — Belfast — Off for India 379 CHAPTER XXV. From Marseilles to Bombay — The Suez Canal — Alexandria again — On board the Venelia — Landing at Apollo Bunder — The caves of Elephanta — Brahma, Vi>hnu and Siva — The entertainment at Malabar Point — 'Visit to Jeypoor— Reception at the palace — The Palace of Amber— The Taj — Beautiful scenes — Bhurtpoor. 387 CHAPTER XXVI. rhey reach Delhi — Visit to the Kutab — Amid the scenes of the Sepoy rel)eIlion — The sacred city of the Hindoos — Benares and its priests — Calcutta — At the Gov- 12 CONTENTS. crnmcnt House— The University — The Viceroy's country-seat — The King of Oude — Rangoon — Hindoo customs and society — The Pagoda 400 CHAPTER XXVH. Down tlie straits of Malacca — Burmah — A letter from the King of Siam — They reach Siam — A visit to the ex-Regent — The state dinner — An interesting occasion — Canton — Dining with the Viceroy — The Menu — A pecuHar feast — Macao, Swatow, and Amoy — Camocus — Hong Kong 41 1 CHAPTER XXVHI. Shanghai — A glad welcome — A quiet Sabbath — An imposing scene — Li Hung Chang — The Viceroy visits Grant — The fete at the French Consul's — Pekin — A young emperor 424 CHAPTER XXIX. Chefoo — Departure from China — Japan — Nagasaki — Prince Dati — A grand dinner — The musicians — Yokohama — The palace — Reviewing the troops — Taking leave of the emperor — Farewell speeches — Homeward bound 433 CHAPTER XXX. General Grant and his party en route for San Francisco — Preparations for Grant's reception— The first glimpse of tlie steamer — The entrance of the " City of Tokio " — The landing — .A. grand procession — A magnificent scene — At the Palace Hotel — A grand chorus — A clamoring people — General Grant speaks — Reception at Tubb's hotel 45I CHAPTER XXXI. General Grant's party visit Yosemite Valley— In Oregon— Back to San Francisco— The farewell banquet— In Nevada— A visit to the consolidated Virginia mine- Souvenirs— Sutro Tunnel— Eastw*d— At Burlington, Iowa— At home in Galena, 111— A hcaity welcome— At Chicago— Indianapolis— Louisville— Cincinnati- Columbus— pitisburgh—Harrisburg— Philadelphia— The journey complete— A hcarly wclcyoie home— A rejoicing people— Childs' reception— Many other ''"""'* : 458 CHAPTER XXXH. ■n. t.ur— Start from Washington— The party— Columbia— Savannah— ' ■' -l^ivana— San Diego Los Banos— A native ball— Cuban slave - ■''■^^^•^".^val—BulI.tighiing—Progresso— Vera Cruz— City of Mex- CONTENTS. 13 ico — President Diaz — Mexican railroad schemes — San Antonio — Cherubusco — Home again 47-" CHAPTER XXXIII. Grant settles in New York — He enters the mazes of business — The firm of Grant & Ward — How the General was drawn into the whirlpool of disaster — An over- whelming trouble — Vanderbilt's generosity — The astounding wonders of Ward's rascality — A tale of turbulent trouble 505 CHAPTER XXXIV. /^ Grant's desperate illness — How the disease developed — His trouble a cancer in the throat — The vigils of the doctors and a history of the case — The hero is bap- tized — The love of the people — How he was watched and tended — The removal to Mount McGregor — The sympathy of the world 527 CHAPTER XXXV. Resting-place of the illustrious dead — Several spots proposed : West Point ; the capital of the nation— Riverside Park, New York, chosen — Telegrams of sym- pathy to the bereaved family — Sermon by Rev. Dr. Newman at the cottage at Mt. McGregor — The funeral train on its way to New York — Scenes along the way — The whole country in mourning — Arrival at Albany — Lying in state in the Capitol — Arrival at New York— City Hall, New York City — The magnitic^.u funeral cortege — The temporary tomb 557 f^ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. U. S. Grant (Steel) Frontispiece. Page. Grant's early Home at Point Pleasant, Ohio (Full page) .... 27 View from Military Academy at West Point ...... 36 Battle of Resaca de la Palma (Full page) . 45 Castle of Chapultepec (Full page) ....,..• 51 Scott's Entry into the City of Mexico (Full page) ..... 53 The Dent Homestead near St. Louis (Full page) 57 Grant's Home at Galena .......... 65 Grant's Departure for the War (Full page) ...... 68 Fort Sumter 70 Interior of Fort Henry .......... 75 Water Battery at Fort Donelson ........ 76 Commodore A. H. Foote ......... 77 Vicksburg — The Gibraltar of the Mississippi (Full page) .... 81 Pittsburg Landing ........... 84 Grant and Sherman at the Battle of Shiloh (Full page) .... 87 The Start for Vicksburg (Full page) 97 Grant Entering the Capital of Mississippi (Full page) .... 101 Surrender of Vicksburg (Full page) ....... 107 Cave Life in Vicksburg during its Siege 109 General George H. Thomas ......••• 116 (15) IG LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Battle of Lookout Mountain (Full page) 119 Grant Receiving his Commission as Lieutenant-General (Full page) . 123 In the Wilderness (Full page) 133 Portrait of Lincoln • 136 General Winfield Scott 142 Sheridan's Final Dash to the Front (Full page) 147 View of Richmond 150 Surrender of General Lee (Full page) 155 View of Charleston 166 Capitol at Raleigh 167 Grant at the Close of the War (Full page) 172 War and Navy Departments (Full page) ...... 175 National Cajjitol at Washington (Full page) ...... 183 Senator Joseph R. Ilawley 185 Grant's Start for his Second Inauguration 188 North Front of the White House ........ 195 Great Corliss Engine of the Centennial Exhibition (Full page) . . . £03 Main Exhibition BuiUling ......... 204 Dom Pedro, Emperor of Brazil 205 American Line Steamer Indiana ........ 211 ,^rrival of the Indiana at Queenstown 213 Scene on the Mersey near Liverpool . 215 Green Park 224 Furtification near Edinburgh ......... 232 Trafalgar Square ........... 234 The Tuileries and Louvre 238 DiMant View of Vesuvius , . . 246 Battle of Mount Vesuvius 249 The llcmiitnge 2-53 Ruin* at Pomjjcii "58 Kuin* at Malta 263 nou>ci.,i, and Batllcmei'ts at Malta ....... 266 View .f Alexandria . oen 18 LIST OF illitstratio:ns. Page. Catlicilral of St. Basil, Moscow 359 Mosque of Cordova 380 The Suez Caual 388 General Grant En-route for India (Full page) 389 Red Sea Entrance to the Suez Canal 390 Tlie Taj—" The most Beautiful Building in the World " (Full page) . 397 King's Palace at Delhi (Full page) 403 Pagoda of Rangoon (Full page) 409 Dancing-women of Siam ........•• 415 Sending Written Prayers to Heaven (Full page) 421 Tea Gardens of Shanghai (Full page) 427 Bridge at Pekin (Full page) 431 Japanese House of the better class (Full page) . ..... 439 Temple at Yokohama (Full page) 445 Nearing the Golden Gate, California (Full page) 453 General Grant and Party in a Nevada Mine (Full page) .... 461 Medal Struck in the Grant Parade at Philadelphia 472 Reception at Philadelphia (Full page) 473 Interior of Palace Car " President " 476 Pulaski Monument at Savannah (Full page) 479 En -route for San Diego 482 Travelling by Volante in Cuba (Full page) 487 Dancing the "Zapnteo" (Full page) 489 "A Leading Occupation" ...-••••• ^"^^ Progresso (Full page) ....-••••• ^"^ Grant's Residence in New York ^"" Tender Care of the Dying Hero (Full page) 533 Cottage at Mount McGregor ....'•••• ^'^' Rev. J. P. Newman, D. D ^^^ Grand Central Depot, New York (Full page) 601 Front Entrance City Hall, New York (Full page) 6i 5 Maior-General Winfield Scott Hancock 607 :Mourning Decorations on Broadway, New York (Full page) . . . 609 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 17 Pack. 977 Oriental Bazanv 079 Eastern Donkeys View of the Nile (Full page) 281 Tomb of the Kmgs -''^ I'asha Villa, occupied by General Grant (Full page) .... 285 'N7 Group of Bedouins '"^' Ruins at Thebes (Full page) . . * -89 00 1 Ruins at Thebes ■^"^■* The Plains of Thebes (Full page) 297 Kgvpiian Architecture -^^ Karnak '"^1 Hieroglyphics— a Battle-scene -^^^3 Hieroglyphics — Storming a City . . • 305 Totter at work ^^8 Arch near Keneh ........••• ^^1" The Plains of Memphis (Full page) ........ 310 JitTa • 322 Peasant W'Dinan of the East ......... 323 Ramlch 324 .\n Ea-tern Dining-room .......... 328 \'ia D..lorosa 329 David's Tomb, Mount Zion C31 Valley of Jehoshaphat 333 Scene on the River Jordan 335 A Dancing-girl of Damascus 236 Constanlinople (Full page) 337 Exterior View of a Turkish House 339 Interiur View of a Turkish House 340 Tlic Acropolis at Athens 342 Venice (Full page) 347 Florence (I'ull page) 349 Ca»tlc in Germany (Full page) 355 Mountain Pass in Norway 357 LIFE AND PUBLIC SERVICES OP GENERAL U. S. GRANT. (23) Yanqiiisf^ES. I. Not by the ball or brand Sped by a mortal hand, Not by the lightning stroke Wlien fiery tempests broke— Not 'mid the ranks of war Fell the great conqueror. II. Unmoved, undismayed, In the crash and carnage of the cannonade — Eye that dimmed not, hand that failed not, Brain that swerved not, heart that quailed not, Steel nerve, iron form — The dauntless spirit that o'erruled the storm. III. While the hero peaceful slept A foeman to his chamber crept, Lightly to the slumberer came, Touched his brow and breathed his name. O'er the stricken brow there passed Suddenly an icy blast. IV. The hero rose, undismayed, Saluted death, and sheathed his blade. V. The conqueror of a hundred fields To a mightier conqueror yields; No mortal foeman's l>low Laid the great soldier low ; Victor in his latest breatli — Vaniiuishcd but by death. Francis T. Browne. LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. CHAPTER I. GENERAL GRANT'S ANCESTRY — HIS FATHER GOES WEST MARRIES ULYSSES BORN THE STORY OF THE CHANGED NAME — " FICK IT AGAIN " THE SCHOOL-BOY " CAN't " NOT IN THE DICTIONARY A LOAD OF LOGS HOME INFLUENCES THE HORSE TRADE DEFENDING WASH- INGTON " there's nothing LIKE LEATHER " ENTERS WEST POINT A LETTER HOME TO MOTHER IMPRES- SIONS OF Arnold's treason — progress in studies — OFFERS TO TAN HIDES — GRADUATES — A REMINISCENCE enters THE REGULAR ARMY IS SENT UP RED RIVER HIS MODESTY A LETTER TO MRS. BAILEY. That branch of the Grant family from which the famous General came was represented in Mathew Grant, who landed on these shores in 1630. In the sixth gener- ation from Mathew was Noah Grant, grandfather of the General, who after the Revolutionary War migrated to Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania, where, in January, 1794, Jesse R. Grant, father of the lamented General, was born. Five years later, in 1799, the family began to be agitated by the fever of unrest, following the star of em- pire, moved to the great and distant valley of the West. At this time not a single State had been formed out of that large district known as the Northwestern Territory, lying between the Allegheny and Rocky Mountains. The journey was long and wearying. After days of trav- (25) 26 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. elling along rough roads, through dark forests and across rapid streams, they at last made a final halt in Ohio. About the same time another Pennsylvanian, a farmer by the name of John Simpson, removed his household to Clermont county, on the Ohio river, near Cincinnati. The two families were but a few miles apart. The country being sparsely settled at that time, it was not long before the Grants and the Simpsons came to be well ac- quainted. The friendship thus established culminated in the marriage of Jesse Grant and Hannah Simpson. This event occurred in June, 1821. Jesse was a quiet, cautious, earnest young man, possessed of an abundance of resolu- tion and perseverance. He was very fond of business, and soon resolved to add a tannery to his f\irm. His wife was a young woman of exceptional good sense, possessing also a calm, serious and domestic temperament. She was warmly attached to her home, and endeavored to make it sunshiny and pleasant. She entered into her husband's enterprise with all the energy of character peculiar to successful Western pioneers, and by so doing aided much in his material prosperity. In the humble dwelling which they called home their first child was born on the twenty- Beventh day of April, 1822. This child, a son, was named Hiram Ulysses Grant. The story of the subsequent change of name is thus told by the father : "The maternal grandmother was quite a reader of history, and had taken a great fancy to Ulysses, the great Crcciiin general, who defeated the Trojans by his strategy of the wooden horse. She wished the child named Ulys- Bos. His grandfather wanted to have him njimed Hiram. S. l,.,th were gratified by naming him Hiram Ulysses. ^\ ii.-n 1 wrote to Mr. Hamer, then a member of Congress l'"ni our district, to procure the appointment of cadet, he wrote to the War Department and gave his name ' Ulysses 2S LIFE OF GENEEAL GEAKT. S. Grant.' And we could not get it altered. Simpson was his mother's maiden name. We had a son named Simpson, and Mr. Hamer confounded the two names. We re"-arded it a matter of but little consequence, and so let it stand." Early in life absence of fear became characteristic of the voung Ulysses. When but two years of age, while l)eing carried in the arms of his father on a public occa- sion through the village, a young man expressed a desire to try the efiect of a pistol report on the child. The father consented, remarking : " The child has never seen a pistol or gun in his life." The baby hand was placed on the trigger and pressed until it snapped and the pistol went oir with a loud report. The child scarcely stirred ; but in a moment afterward pushed away the pistol, exclaiming in childish glee: ^' Fick it again! fick it again!"" One who stood by remarked : '' That boy will make a general ; for he neither winked nor dodged." Placed in the village school, Ulysses was faithful and studious. Whatever was undertaken he was sure to master. His progress was not as rapid as that made by others, but it was thorough. His motto seems to have been " slow but sure." Although he gave no striking evidence of genius, still there was a beautiful resemblance to the boyhood of Washington in a peculiarity well expressed by one well qualified to give an opinion : " There was cer- tainly a manly, dignified modesty in his deportment which made him at least an uncommon lad." The persistency with which Grant pursued his studies was certainly remarkable. Where many another would liave given up discouraged, he toiled on until he had won tlic victory. One day, as he was wrestling with a very difTicMli problem, one of his companions happening in at the time said to him : ANCESTRY. 29 " You can't master that." Ulysses replied : " Can't ! What does it mean ? " " Why," stammered the other, " Why, it means that — that you can't. There !" Grant wa% not satisfied with the answer. In order to settle the exact meaning of the word, he turned to the dictionary. He found the word can very easily, but there was no cant. Whenever he was baffled in his search for knowledge, he was wont to take the matter to his teacher; and so he appealed to him in this instance. " What is the meaning of can't ? The word is not in the dictionary." The teacher soon informed him, and seeing that a grand opportunity was presented to impress upon the minds of the scholars the great truth that perseverance in well doing is the secret of success, presented the matter in a very forcible manner. He said : " If in the struggles of life any person should assert that you can't do a thing you had determined to accomplish, let your answer be, " The word can't is not in the dictionary.'" His father also relates another amusing little incident: " When he was about ten years old, a distinguished phren- ologist came along and stayed several days in the place. He was frequently asked to examine heads, blindfolded. The phrenologist, among others, examined the boy Grant. He felt his head for several minutes without saying any- thing. Then he was asked if the boy had a capacity for mathematics. The phrenologist, after some further ex- aminations, said : ' You need not be surprised if you see this boy fill the Presidential chair some time.' " It was about this time that Grant showed unmistakably his Scotch blood. That is to say, he had the substantial, strong qualities of character for which the men of Scotland are remarkable — self-reliance and manliness, combined with the ability to manage difficult undertakings. .10 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. " Ulysses," said his father to the boy one day, " T want you to drive the team down to the woods, where the hands arc ready to load up some logs." The boy M-as soon on the way, whip and "lines" in his hands. When he reached the forest, however, the men were not to be found. " Ah !" he said to himself, " I see h.)\v it is. These logs have got to be loaded; for father wants them. I must make up in wit what I lack in ^strength." But how to get the heavy logs upon the wagon was a serious question. Just at that moment his eye rested on a tree that had fallen over, and rested against another. This made the trunk an inclined plane, rising gradually from the ground. The boy saw at a glance how to make the liorses do tb.e work which the missing men were to have done. Unhitching his team, he drew the log nearest to him up on the side of the tree, and then another and so on until he had them jiU in proper position. He then backed his cart under the load, drew each log over the tree and fastened it with a chain to the wagon, and in tri- umph drove homev/ard. His father met him at the door, and not seeing the men, who had been expected to return witli him, exclaimed: "Why, Ulysses! where are the men? Didn't they help you?" •' I don't know where they are," was the answer, " and I don't care either; for I got the load without them." The time of Jesse Grant was so occupied with the cares of pioneer life that the training of the son was left almost wholly to the mother. Mrs. Grant was one of those wom.'u who believed that a child's education should not I- left wholly witli the teachers in the common school. Mm- believed that home influence left an indelible mark ui>on the pla.stic mind of the young. She therefore sought ANCESTRY. 31 to impress upon her son the noblest lessons which one can learn. Having made the Bible her text-book, she reared her boy to love that dear old volume, and to prize its immortal teachings. Although possessed of strong re- ligious traits, Mrs. Grant had, nevertheless, a quaint humor. It often manifested itself in the quiet ripples of her handsome mouth, even though it did not betray itself by words. " Ulysses," she said to her boy one day, " I mean you shall not come to a bad name, if you can help it. Your father has called you by a great one, and if you will fol- low the advice of your mother, as well as that of your father, no one will ever call you Useless Grant." And no stronger summons was needed to start the boy to duty than the short call of the woman pioneer: " Quick, my lad ! They shan't call you Useless ! " Thus the inspiration to diligence, to obedience, to per- severance and success came to the boy Grant in the charmed circle of home. He saw that his father was suc- cessful; he also saw that his mother greatly aided his father in his efforts. And with these two examples be- fore him he often put the question to himself: " What reason is there that I should not succeed?" In those early days in Ohio it was absolutely necessary for a successful farmer to have in his possession one or more of the best horses obtainable. The business of Jesse Grant having increased, he desired to purchase another horse. He sent Ulysses, who was at that time assisting him in the tan-yard, to make the purchase. The animal wanted was the property of a neighbor. The boy, though young, had acquired some knowledge of horses, and was, therefore, delighted with the mission. " Go to neighbor Ralston, my son," said Mr. Grant, " and tell him I have sent you to buy the horse we talked no . J.IFE OF GENERAL GRANT. about. You may offer him fifty dollars at first. If he says he Avon't take that, offer him fifty-five. If that won't bring the creature, you might go as high as sixty." The boy at once started on his errand, and soon reached tlie neighbor's house, and make known his errand. •• Your father sent you to buy this mare of me, did ho?" inquired Mr. Ralston. '• Yes, sir, he did," answered young Grant, looking the animal over carefully. " Did he tell you how much you were to pay for him ?" continued Ralston, with his sharp eye fastened upon the thirteen-year-old customer. •• Yes, sir," frankly responded the boy. " Father told me to offer you fifty dollars for the horse ; and then he said, if you wouldn't take that, I might raise to fifty-five, but I nmstn't go above sixty." Neighbor Ralston thought that he had a very easy case to manage. " Oh, that's it," he said. " Well, sixty dol- lars is my price for the mare." •• Father said I might give sixty dollars," answered the boy, •• but, after seeing the horse again, I don't think she's worth more than fifty to us; so you may take that or it is no trade." The little fellow got the horse. Early in life patriotism developed as an important ele- ment in the character of the young Ulysses. It seems to have been born in him, and, as year by year rolled on, its nacred fire burned brighter and brighter. A single inci- (l<'nt will serve to show how strong it was when he was lait a small lad. He had a cousin who had been born in <':ina(la, and, of course, it was but natural that he should liavc learned something from his ancestors prejudicial to Americans and to their institutions. This cousin regarded the American people as being far beneath those of Eng- ANCESTRY. 33 lish birth, and, having been sent into the States to be educated, he did not hesitate to give his opinions in very plain language. To hear his country and its founders ridiculed was too much for Ulysses, and he rej)lied to his cousin with no small degree of earnestness. " Speaking of Washington," said the cousin, " it seems to me, Ulysses, you appear to think a great deal of him." " And why shouldn't I ? " was the reply. " He is the father of my country, and was raised up by the Almighty to lead it to independence." " That's all very fine," retorted the other ; " but he was a traitor to his king." " A what ? " demanded Ulysses, raising his voice. "Washington was a traitor, a rebel!" continued the other, in an insolent and authoritative manner. "Cousin John," calmly replied Ulysses, "would you like to hear your sovereign called hard names ? " " Why, no ; I can't say that I should." " Well, then, let me tell you plainly that I will not al- low you or any one to insult the name of Washington ! " "Pray, what are you going to do about it?" asked John, with a sneer. " Do? " exclaimed Ulysses. "Do ? I shall resent it, as I have a right to do. You may take advantage of me ; for you are older than I am. My mother has told me not to quarrel with my schoolmates, and I intend to obey her, and shall not attack them on my own account. But when Washington is assailed, and especially by an English boy, I shall defend him, cousin or no cousin. I'm ready to fight for Washington." And with these words Ulysses threw off his jacket and was not long in convincing this Canadian friend that he meant full as much as he had said. Blow followed blow in quick succession, until the cousin was thrashed into an apology. 34 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. m When Ulysses returned home his parents were not long ... discovering that he had been in a fight. There was no attempt to evade or conceal anything ; but with frank- ness he told them the whole story. He had not been fighting for self, or from a purely selfish motive. Rather ^^°ls it°a contest for principle ; for his beloved country ; for one whom his father and mother had ever taught him to honor. For a moment or two not a word was spoken after Ulysses had finished his story. The mother looked at her darling boy, her heart filled with the mingled emo- tions of patriotism, love and maternal duty. What step sh(3uld she take ? The boy had often been told that he must not fight, but still he had by his own confession been engaged in such an act. And then she thought of the holy impulse which had led him to do so, and as she thouglit she asked herself the question, " Would it be right for me to punish him because actuated by such a principle?" While she was debating the matter, the hus- band and father broke the silence : '' Mother," said he, adopting a familiar form of expres- sion. *• I don't think you ought to punish the boy. He has come straight home after the difficulty and told us the ^vllole story. You see, he didn't fight from malice or re- venge, or the love of fighting. In my judgment he did exactly right; for the boy who would not fight to defend Wasliington is not worthy to be the son of Jesse and llanunh Grant." And so tlie question was settled, and rightly, too. Siicli a decision did not set aside paternal discipline, ratlier did it honor that spirit of patriotism which had laid the foundation of a great and good government, riynses was taught to be a patriot, even though to be one Hliould cause him to receive many a blow. ANCESTRY. 3S "It is the purpose of the Ahnighty," continued Mr. Grant, after a short pause, " to redress all human wrongs. It is Christian to take up arms in defence of right, if right cannot be defended in any other way. Ulysses has but done his duty in standing up for his country. Should we not have been ashamed of our boy if he had done any differently ? In my opinion, it marks the manhood in him; and, if his life is spared, he may yet do a great work in the world." Patriotism was not only thus early taught, but faith- fulness in every undertaking in life. Mr. Grant was one of those men who believe that if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well. And so he early impressed upon the mind of his boy the importance of being faith- ful in all the undertakings of life, however humble the station held. " Ulysses," he said to his son one day, " remember this as long as you live, that it is honorable for a boy to learn any trade that is an honest one. Washington learned a trade and was not ashamed to follow it for a living. Let it be your constant aim, my son, to do what you com- mence to do, that is right, with all your heart. When you begin a good thing, go through with it. Don't leave your leather only half-tanned : if you do, it will spoil and be a dead loss on your hands. Plenty of lime, plenty of clean water, plenty of tan, plenty of oil, plenty of hard work, and your leather is made ; and when it is made, it is a good thing. Remember the old saying, ' There is nothing like leather.' Resolve in your youth that it shall be so with you in everything. Never begin a work unless you intend to go through with it. You know that the best leather is that which sometimes looks the worst in the hide, and that the most elegant and durable specimens are frequenth^ found at the bottom of the vat." 86 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. At the age of seventeen Ulysses was admitted as a cadet into the United States Military Academy at West Point. The appointment was secured through the in- fluence of a friend of his father, General T. L. Hamer, a UKMnbor of Congress at that time from Ohio. Grant en- tered upon the duties with that spirit of earnestness and (k'tcrniiiiation which had ever characterized him. He re- VIKW FUUM MIHTAIIY ACADEMY AT WEST POINT. Holved tliat he would succeed— that, however difficult the undertaking he would overcome all its obstacles. '•How did 3-ou pass the examination ?" inquired the ^•'^'•"•'•- in a l<-tter, soon after his son's entrance to the ucadfiiiv. Tlie n-ply was at once modest and truthful : " I passed exanunation on ,what I had learned by hard study; and, ANCESTRY. 37 let me tell you, father," he added, '' I don't think I shall forget it very soon, if ever I do. I don't expect to make very fast progress ; but I shall try tc hold on to what I get. And with this determination in his heart he devoted himself to liis studies. Soon after his entrance he wrote to his mother : " U. S. West Point Military Academy, "June 4:th, 1839. " My Dear Mother : I have occasionally been called to be sep- arated from you ; but never did I feel the full force and effect of this separation as I do now. I seem alone in the world, without my mother. There have been so many ways in which you have advised me, when in the quiet of home I have been pursuing my studies, that you cannot tell how much I miss you. When I was busy with father in the tannery and on the farm we were both more or less surrounded by others who took up our attention and occupied our time. But I was so often alone with you, and you spoke to me so frequently in private, that the solitude of my sit- uation here at the Academy, among my silent books and in my lonely room, is all the more striking: it reminds me all the more forcibly of home, and, most of all, my dear mother, of you. But, in the midst of all this, your kind instructions and admoni- tions are ever present with me. I trust they may never be absent from me as long as I live. How often I think of them ! and how well do they strengthen me in every good word and work. "My dear mother, should I progress well with my studies at West Point and become a soldier for my country, I am looking forward with liope to have you spared to share with me in any advance- ment I may make. I see now, in looking over the records here, how much American soldiers of the right stamp are indebted to good American mothers. When they go to the field, what prayers go with them ! what tender testimonials of maternal affection and counsel are in their knapsacks ! I am struck, in looking over the history of tlie noble struggle of our fathers for national independ- ence, at the evidence of the good influence exerted upon them by the women of the Revolution. Ah ! my beloved friend, how can the present generation ever repay the debt it owes the patriots of the past for the sacrifices they have so freely and richly made for 38 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. us? Wc mav well ask, ' Would our countn^ be what it is now if it had not l»cen for the greatness of our patriotic ancestors?' " Let me hear from you by letter as often as convenient, and send me such books as you think will help me. They can be for- warded throu.uli the courtesy of our member of Congress. '• Faithfully and most lovingly your son, " Ulysses." West Point is the spot where Benedict Arnold, the Revolutionary tnaitor, attempted to betray his country into the hands of the English. Concerning this fact, }oung Grant expressed himself to his father : '• I am rendered serious by the impressions that crowd upon me here at West Point. My thoughts are fre- quently occupied with the hatred I am made to feel toward traitors to my country, as I look around me on the memorials that remain of the black-hearted treason of Arnold. I am full of a conviction of scorn and con- tempt, which my young and inexperienced pen is unable to write in this letter, toward the conduct of any man who, at any time, could strike at the liberties of such a nation as ours. If ever men should be found in our Union base enough to make the attempt to do this; if, like Arncjld. they should secretly seek to sell our national in-.-* heritance for the mess of pottage of wealth, or power, or section — West Point sternly reminds me what you, my father, would have your son do. As I stand here in this national fort, a student of arms under our country's flag, I know full well how you would have me act in such an emergency. I trust my future conduct, in such an hour, would prove worthy the patriotic instructions you have given." Ill tlic spring of 1840, having been at West Point one v'-ar. his rapid i)rogress so pleased the authorities that tli«-y i-roinoted him without hesitation to a place in the ANCESTKY. ' 39 third class, and gave him the rank in the battaUon of corporal. In the following year, having been admitted to the second class, he was made a sergeant. And yet, though thus honored, he was the same quiet, unassuming youth that he was when he came from the old tannery. His modesty and faithfulness won respect from his teachers, and his companions loved him for his unre- stramed and friendly manner. While at West Point an incident occurred which serves to show that, although he had left the tannery and its work, he, nevertheless, did not look upon labor as a thing to be ridiculed. Coming, as he did, from the West, the son of a tanner and farmer, he was, as all new-comers are at first, the subject of many a joke from the older students. One of them one day sneeringiy alluded to the fact of his having worked m a tannery. " Sir ! " exclaimed the indignant Ulysses, drawing him- self to his utmost height, " am I to understand your re- mark as intended for an insult ? " " AYhy, no. Grant; it was a thoughtless thing to say, and I regret it." " Oh I very well," added Grant ; " I accept the apology. But let me tell you, for your information as well as that of others here, that I consider the calling of a tanner as honor- able as any other in the world, and I shall defend it. I had made up my mind, if occasion required it, to prove to those who insulted me on account of my business, that I had learned it well, and I should thoroughly tan their hides on the spot ! " On June 30th, 1843, Grant's class graduated. Of the hundred who had donned the cadet gray four years before, thirty-nine graduated. In his class Grant ranked twenty- one. The tanner's son who had come from a district school outranked seventy-nine of his classmates, some of 40 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. whom were the sons of Congressmen and of professional men. Not a few of them had passed through college, and lience had received advantages which circumstances had denied to Grant. The secret of Grant's success lay in the fact that he was painstaking and faithful. He had fixed his eve upon a certain goal, and to reach that goal he bent all his energies. Fixedness of purpose is the secret of success. "A rolling stone gathers no moss" is a trite saving, and we have an abundant illustration of its truth everv day. Many a failure in life is attributable to the simple fact that the person so failing had no settled pur- pose in life. Had Grant acted upon this plan, then cer- tainly he would have lived in obscurity, and his last hours would not have been the object of the w^orld's solicitude. Among those who graduated with Grant w^ere many men who afterwards became distinguished officers in the Mexican war, and also those who later still became iden- tified as prominent leaders in the Rebellion. At the head of the class stood Major-General W. B. Franklin, who afterwards led the Nineteenth army corps under General Banks. Generals Ingalls, Steele and Judali graduated in the same class. An oflicer who was connected with the Academy at the time Grant was there thus speaks of him : '• 1 remember him well. He was a small, tiny-looking little fellow with an independent air about him and a f:oo(l deal of quiet determination. It is long ago, but when 1 recall old scenes I can still see Grant with his ovi-ralls strapped down on his boots, standing in front of his quarters. It seems as though it were yesterday that I s;iw him going to the riding hall with his spurs clanging iMi the ground and his great cavalry sabre dangling by ills side. It is thirty-eight years since, and I must be growing old, but it is wonderful what a short time it seems ANCESTRY. 41 since I was a young man and saw the famous soldier a mere stripling at the Point." Another, speaking of hiin during this same period, says: "• He was a plain, straightforward, common-sense youth; quiet, rather of the old-head-on-the-young-shoulders order, shunning notoriety, quite contented while others were grumbling; taking to his military duties in a very busi- ness-like manner — not a prominent man in the corps, but respected by all and ^^ery popular with his friends. His sobriquet of 'Uncle Sam' where every good fellow has a nickname came from these very qualities ; indeed, he was a very Uncle-Sam-like sort of youth. He was then and always an excellent horseman, and his picture rises before me still of Grant in an old torn coat, obsolescent leather gig-tops loose riding pantaloons." At the time of Grant's graduation the work of the United States army was confined almost wholly to occu- pying forts as garrisons, guarding the frontier wherever threatened by the Indians, and having the oversight of the opening of military roads through the wilderness. Grant was breveted Second Lieutenant of the Fourth reg- ular infantry, stationed at Jefferson Barracks, near St. Louis. He took part in the many expeditions which were sent into that wild country which lay back of the settle- ments for the purpose of protecting the defenceless inhab- itants from the attacks of the savages. Early in 1844 the regiment was sent up the Red river, in Louisiana, to protect the scattered settlers. While thus engaged the country called him to a higher and a more active service. While attached to the Louisiana expedition Grant sent a daguerreotype of himself to Mrs. G. B. Bailey, of Georgetown, Ohio, who had been warmly attached to him in his early days. Accompanying the picture was the letter given below, which illustrates the modesty of the 42 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. jouiig Irto. There was no desire to make a parade of his position, or a big flourish with the title which had been conferred upon him. And this fact has been true of him all through his public life. ' " Camp Salubrity, near Natchitoches, La., ''June m, 1844. " Mrs. Bah^ey : My journey, fortunately, is at an end, and agree- ably to your request and my own pleasure I hasten to notify you of niy safe arrival here. It always affords me pleasure to write to old acquaintances, and much more to hear from them ; so I would be pleased if the correspondence would not stop here. As long as my letters are answered, if agreeable to you, I wall continue to write. " My trip to this place, ' forty days' journey in the wilderness,' was marked with no incident, save one, worth relating, and that one is laughable, curious, important, surprising, etc., etc., but I can't tell it now. It is for the present a secret, but I will tell it to you some time. You must not guess what it is, for you will go wrong. On my route I called around by the way of St. Louis and Jef- ferson Barracks, where I spent four or five days very pleasantly among newly-made acquaintances. From St. Louis to New Or- leans I had a very pleasant trip on a large and splendid boat, with pleasant passengers and not much crowded. As we approached tlie Soutli the sun became sensibly warmer and the mosquitoes decidedly more numerous. By the time we got to New Orleans my hands and face bore the strongest evidence of the number and size of this insect in a Southern climate. I was but one day in Orleans, which was spent in running over the city just fast enough lo tire myself out and get but little good of my visit. But from what I saw I think it would be a pleasant place to live, and it is \u>w contemplated that my regiment will go in that neighborhood ill cast; Texas sliould not be annexed to the United States; but in cii.se of the annexation we will probably have to go much farther w«-Ht than we are now— i)robably to the Rio Colorado. From New ( )rlounH to Natcliitoches I had the bad fortune to travel on a small lM)iil, conHid('nd)ly crowded, through a hot country, with gambhng (^'»iii^; on day and night. Some of the passengers had very cut-throat appejirances. From Natchitoches I had to walk (or pay an extrav- u^,'aiit piic- for ;i conveyance) three miles through the hottest sun I ANCESTRY. 48 think I ever felt. I found my regiment camping out in small linen tents on the top of a high sandy ridge and in the midst of a pine for- est. The great elevation of our situation, and the fact that one of the best springs of water in the State puts out here, are the only recom- mendations the place' has. We are about three miles from any place; there is no conveyance to take us from one place to another, and everything is so high that we can't afford to keep a horse or other conveyance of our own. I could walk myself but for the intensity of the heat. As for lodgings, I have a small tent that the rain runs through as it would through a sieve. For a bed- stead I have four short pine sticks set upright, and plank running from the two at one end to the other. For chairs I use my trunk and bed, and as to a floor, we have no such luxury, yet our meals are cooked in the woods by servants that know no more about cul- inary matters than I do myself But with all these disadvantages my appetite is becoming extravagant. I would like to have our old West Point board again that you may have heard so much about. As for the troublesome insects of creation, they abound here. The swamps are full of alligators and the woods full of bed- bugs and ticks, insects that you are not troubled with in Ohio, but are the plague of this country. They crawl entirely under the skin when they get on a person, and it is impossible to keep them off. So much for Camp Salubrity. " I should be happy to get an answer from this as early as possi- ble, and, if nothing more, a postscript from the young ladies. Ladies are always so much better at giving the news than others, and then there is nothing done or said about Georgetown that I would not like to hear. They could tell me of all the weddings, etc., etc., that are talked of Give my love to everybody in George- town. " Lieutenant U. S. Grant, Fourth Infantry, " To Mrs. G. B. Bailey, Georgetown, Ohio. " P. S. — I give my title in signing this, not because I wish people to know what it is, but because I want to get an answer to this, and put it there that a letter may be directed so as to get to me. " U. S. G." CHAPTER II. THE MEXICAN WAR — GRANT GOES TO MEXICO — PALO ALTO GRANT COMMENDED FOR BRAVERY — RESACA DE LA PALMA — MONTEREY GENERAL SCOTT ENTERS THE FIELD VERA CRUZ — GRANT PLACED ON THE COMMANDER'S STAFF A LETTER HOME — IMPRESSIONS OF MEXICO — MEXICAN PRO- DUCTIONS MINERALS BIRDS BATTLE OF MOLINO DEL REY — CIIAPULTEPEC — BREVET CAPTAIN A NIGHT OF TER- ROR IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL SANTA ANNA FLEES FR03I THE CITY — SCOTT TAKES POSSESSION PEACE. In the year 1845, as the reader knows, war was threat- ened between the United States and Mexico. The cause was a dispute about the boundary line of Texas, which had ah'ead}' become a State, for which more territory was chiiiucd than Mexico was willing to concede. This led to liDt disputes, and to many acts of injustice on the part of Mexico. The United States government determined to .SLMid an '•'army of occupation," for the purpose of securing tlie observance of what she considered the true l^oundary of Texas. General Taylor was the commander ol tliese ibrces, among which was the regiment with which (irant was connected. The troops were for a time Htationed at Corpus Christi, and here, soon after his arri- val, C.rant received his full commission as Second Lieu- t'-iKiiit. He was then transferred from the Fourth to the S.-vcMth rp-iinent of regular infantry. A few weeks later 44 ) 'Xj 46 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. ho was returned to the old Fourth, where he retained the 8am e rank. The winter of 1845-46 passed away without any deci- sive action. On the 23d of May, 1846, Mexico declared war on the grounds that the United States troops had in- vaded her territory. General Taylor was still stationed on the banks of the Rio Grande, opposite Matamoras. At Matamoras there was a large body of Mexicans sta- tioned. Taylor having heard that the enemy were be- tween him and Point Isabel, and that they were also threatening Fort Brown, further up the stream, he re- solved to dispatch troops to both points. When the American forces were preparing to move, the Mexicans, who had been closely watching them, believing that they were about to give up the struggle, manifested their de- light in the ringing of bells and in other ways. Between the original headquarters of General Taylor and Fort Bnjwn lay Point Isabel, Palo Alto, and Resaca de la Palma. While marching to the relief of Fort Brown, General Taylor met the enemy at Palo Alto, where a Fliarp and bloody engagement ensued. Here Grant showed tlie material of which he was made. The coolness and self-possession for which he was remarkable in his earlier years, now appeared in a stronger, brighter form. The discipline of West Point had served to develop all the grand qualities of his military nature. In the course of tlic battle it became necessary for him to give a few com- mands, and they were given in few words, and with a calmness well worthy of an older campaigner. The l''ourth regiment was well spoken of for the work which >t [K'rformed that day. Grant was commended for his bravery. On the following day, as the army continued its line ul march, Taylor met the enemy and fought the battle MEXICAN WAR. 47 at Resaca de la Palma. But the Mexicans could not stand before the American army. Their ranks were thinned, and they reeled before the deadly fire which was poured into their faces and at last they fled from the battle-field, although they outnumbered the Americans three to one. The Fourth regiment was again distin- guished, and Lieutenant Grant was again commended for gallantry. The victorious army then swept on, driving the Mexi- cans before them, like autumn leaves before a wind. Down the river the troops marched until they agam encountered the enemy at Monterey, some 10,000 strong, under the command of General Ampudia. The attack was made by General Taylor, on the 21st of September. Several days fighting ensued, and on the 24th Ampudia surrendered the city and garrison. It was at this point that Grant had his first opportunity of learning in battle the nature of intrenchments, the best manner of approach- ing them, and the means most likely to dislodge an enemy. The knowledge which he learned while here, unquestionably became of great use to him in after years. In the meantime the Congress of tlie United States had made a regular declaration of war. In the fall of 1846 General Scott entered the field as commander-in- chief of the entire American force. It was now deter- mined to proceed without delay against the magnificent Mexican capital. The fleet bearing General Scott and his troops entered Vera Cruz bay on March 9th, 1847. Scott landed at Sacrificios, three miles from Vera Cruz, at the head of 12,000 men. General Taylor's forces were to unite with those of Scott, in the siege of Vera Cruz, which was a strong and well-defended city, with its cele- brated castle San Juan de Ulloa. 48 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. A few days later the two armies united, and an attack upon the city was made at once. Again the Mexicans were defeated, and the victorious troops pushed on toward the city of Mexico. As a reward for his bravery. Grant was now given the position of quartermaster and a pLace upon the commander's staff. While the troops were pressing on to Mexico, Grant found time to write an occasional letter home. One of them reads as follows : ^ I In Camp, En Route to Mexico, 1 May 10th, 1847. My Dear Parents: We are progressing steadily toward the Mexican capital. Since I last wrote you my position has been rendered more responsible and laborious. You may learn the progress of the old Fourth by the papers ; and I do not mean that you shall ever hear of my shirking my duty in battle. My new post of quartermaster is considered to afford an officer an oppor- tunity to be relieved from fighting; but I do not and cannot see it in that light. You have always taught me that the post of danger is tlie post of duty. That is the way Warren looked at it, you rumcmber, when he asked General Putnam where he would send him, in the battle of Bunker Hill. " I shall send you, Mr. President," replied Putnam (for you recollect that Warren was the President of the Continental Congress at that time), " to a place of safety." " No, general," said Warren, quickly, " send me where tlu- light may be the hottest; for there I can do the most good for my country." So I feel in my position as quartermaster. I do not intend it shall keep me from fighting for our dear old flag when the hour of battle comes. Hut 1 must not talk all the time about the war. I shall try to ^ivf you a few deserij^tions of what I see in this country. It has wi it many wonderful things, you are aware, so different from Ohio, West Point, and the Indian territories of Missouri. Mexico is ill many parts very mountainous. Its hillsides are crowned with tall palms, whose waving leaves present a splendid appearance. They toss to and fro in the winds like plumes in a helmet; their deep green ghstening in the sunshine or glittering MEXICAN WAR. 49 in the moonbeams in the most beautiful manner. The table-land is high and pleasant, interspersed with many verdant valleys. Some of tlie mountains near the coast of the Pacific Ocean are very lofty, and volcanic in their character. One of these, on tlie extreme northern border, is over 10,000 feet high above the plain, and the plain is supposed to be 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. The more central part of the country, through which we are passing, does not have so many high mountains, but it is very much broken, and some of the cliffs are very steep and the gorges below very deep. As we pass along from the seaboard to the in- terior, we cannot but be struck with the influence produced on the atmosphere by this mountain air. Mexico, you recollect, is located in the torrid zone, where the weather is supposed to be always warm ; but here we find it temperate and healthy to a remarkable degree. The soil abounds with grain, such as wheat and maize, and vegetables, sugar-cane, roots, and fruits of various kinds. With proper cultivation, cotton can be produced in large quantities. The number of plants that yield balsams, gums, resins, and oils is very great. Below the surface of the earth are to be found gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, tin, zinc, sulphur, alum, vitriol, cinnibar, ochre, quicksilver, and other mineral productions. In some places are to be found diamonds, amethysts, cornelians, and precious stones. There are in the hills, sometimes, great masses of loadstones — as large as the largest houses, and quarries of jasper, porphyry, and most beautiful green and golden marble. The manufectures are earthen and stone ware, glass, spirits, sugars, tissues of cotton, paper, woollen, and silk fabrics. Very large supplies of medical minerals and herbs are constantly pro- duced from the interior. All kinds of horned cattle abound in these parts of Mexico. They range over the immense plains in droves, occasionally num- bering 40,000. Their meat is not always the most desirable, but their hides are sent in great quantities to England, France, and the United States. Over 10,000,000 of hides of cattle and skins of smaller animals are at times sent away from Mexico in a single year. I have been much delighted with the Mexican birds. They are found here in immense numbers. There are over 200 different kinds peculiar to the country. Many of these have a plumage that is superlatively splendid, but the display of their music does 60 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. net (.Miual that of their colors. The singing of the Mexican birds, as a general thing, is not as clear, nor as strong, nor as varied as that of the birds of the United States. They beat ours in show, but they do not equal them in harmony. Tl)e City of Mexico, to which we are now marching, and which we expect to possess in a few weeks, is, as you know, one of the most beautifully located in the world. It was originally built with great care. The streets are wide, and as the cooling winds come down from the neighboring mountains, sweeping over fields of clover, groves of magnolias, orchards of oranges, and gardens of flowers, they fill the air with a delightful and healthful fragrance. The city is built at riglit angles, with perfect regularity. In this respect it will compare favorably with any other capital or metrop- olis in either of the four quarters of the earth. But I hear the taps as I write, and must be on the move. I have written this letter with my sword fastened on my side and my pistol within reach, not knowing but that the next moment I may be called into battle again. With remembrance to all our friends, I remain, Dear parents, your son, U. S. Grant. Mr. ./e.s.sc R. Grant, Georgetown, Broivn County, 0. In the autumn of 1847 occurred the terrible slaughter of Molino del Rey. The Mexicans were again defeated, and as they fled from the scene of the conflict they left nion- than a thousand men upon the field, beside those that had been wounded. In this battle Grant took an active part. For the conduct displayed on this occasion, It was proposed to give him a brevet appointment as first H('Utonaiit. This empty title Grant refused to accept. Five days later, Chapultepec, a frowning, formidable Htron-hold, was stormed. Up to the battlements, in spite of tlie leaden storm, the brave troops moved steadily on. Among those brave men there were none more brave than Grant. His gallant conduct was highly commended. -Did you see young Grant ? " inquired one officer of .-.nuth.T, on the morning following the battle. 52 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. ••Yes : I saw him in the right spot just in the nick of time," was the response. "How was it?" asked another, who had been in a dif- lerent part of the field. •• Why," answered the first speaker, "it was a splendid tiling in Grant. I had just succeeded in reaching the fort with a mere handful of men. We were all tired out climbing up the steep bank, and our ammunition was nearly exhausted. Grant dashed in with a squad of brave fellows from his Fourth infantry. We joined our forces together, and divided ammunition. We then pushed forward in the face of a furious fire, carried the stronsi; field-work of the enemy, and completely turned his right." ** I saw Lieutenant Grant at the first barrier," said a soldier of the gallant Fourth to a fellow-soldier, as they rested together beneath the shade of the chaparral. " The enem}' w-as in strong force, and stood his ground well. We had to be very cautious how we came up under his ridding fire; for, you see, he enfiladed us the wdiole length of the line. So up we went slowly, creeping along, •until the head of the battalion was within short musket range of the barrier. At this point, Lieutenant Grant came up handsomely, pushed forwvard with our men, and drove in the enemy's flank." " I knew the command the moment it came up," added the other. " The rear of the enemy had made a good stand, the breastwork was strong, and the conflict was a slmr|) one. One of our howitzers was mounted on the top ol a ccnvent near by, and Lieutenant Grant helped to nianage it. His aim was splendid, and every shot told. I iM'ver saw nobler conduct in any battle." Thus his conn-ades bore united testimony concerning his conduct upon that memorable occasion. Nor was he 64 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. overlooked at the head-quarters. He was singled for honorable mention, and he with one other officer were the onlv ones who were thus distinguished. This meritorious conduct at once secured him the rank of brevet Captain in the regular army. The commission bore the date of Sept. 13, 1847 — the very daj^ of the battle at Chapulte- })ec. This commission was confirmed by Congress at the subsequent session of 1849. The fall of Chapultepec was really the end of the war. "Whi'ii the Mexicans came to understand that the United States troops were again victorious, terror reigned at the capital. The night which followed defies descrij)tion. Santa Anna, thoroughly alarmed, seeing that his army had been hopelessly shattered, fled from the city with the fragment that remained (some 2,000 only), accompanied by the officers of the civil government of the Republic. Scott at once prepared to enter the city. Early on the morning following the evacuation, the American troops took possession of the city, and unfurled the starry flag from the top of the national palace. Scott rode into the city mounted upon his powerful white charger. As he l)assed along the streets the bands played "Yankee Doodle." Dismounting, he took ofl* his hat, and drawing Ills sword and raising it high above his head, he pro- claimed in a loud voice that the American troops had taken possession of the city, and of the Republic. At that inoiiii-nt those Mexicans who were still in the houses opriiL'd fire upon the Americans from windows and house- tops. Although this attack was without the approval of the Mexican authorities, it continued nearly all day, and many AiiK-rican officers were killed or wounded. In the battles in the vicinity of the City of Mexico the Americans lost in killed, wounded and missing, 2,713, wiulc the Mexicans' total loss was 10,730. CHAPTER III. GRANT RETURNS NORTH IS APPLAUDED IN NEW YORK — IS SENT TO DETROIT SACKETT's HARBOR GRANT's LOYE- STORY MEETS MISS DENT ENGAGED MARRIED IS SENT TO OREGON ADMIRAL SCHENGK SPEAKS GRANT RESIGNS BECOMES A FARMER-j-AN INCIDENT HIS ATTACHMENT FOR HIS FAMILY WORDS FROM A SOUTHERN CLERGYMAN HIS LIBRARY TURNS COLLECTOR WHY HE FAILED TO BE A GOOD ONE HIS ESTIMATE OF MONEY MAKES APPLI- CATION FOR AN engineer's OFFICE BECOMES ATTACHED TO THE CUSTOM HOUSE REMOVES TO GALENA POLITICS A PORK STORY. With the return of peace the volunteer troops of tlie United States army disbanded and returned to their sev- eral homes. The portion of the regular army that had been employed in the struggle was ordered back in a body to different military posts. Grant's regiment landed in New York, where they were warmly received by the citizens. How little people thought, as they spoke of his gallant conduct, that in a few years this same brevet Captain would receive the homage and applause of the learned and the titled throughout the world ! The old Fourth regiment was broken up into compa- nies, and ordered to detached service. Grant was again sent to the frontiers ; but this time it was to the North rather than to the South. He was first stationed at Detroit, Michigan, and afterwards at Sackett's Harbor, a post on Lake Ontario, in northern New York. 4 (55) .56 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Wliilo a cadet at West Point, Grant had a friend or "biinkv" as such persons were called at the academy — for whom he formed a strong attachment. Wiien leaving West Point in 1843 this friend invited him to pay him a visit. Soon after he was given a three months' leave of absence. He paid his promised visit to liis friend Fred Dent, the son of Judge Dent, of St. Louis. Here he re- ceived a glad welcome, not only from his old comrade but from the other members of his family. The Judge had a daughter, who was both young and agreeable, and it was not long before Grant found himself greatly in love witii her. He laid siege to her heart, and won her con- sent to become his wife. The Dents lived some four miles from Jefferson Barracks, and soon after the two were thus engaged, much to the surprise and delight of botli, Grant was transferred to this point. While here 1k' was enabled to visit the Dents often. Both families were pleased with the attachment which had been formed, and so the days at Jefferson Barracks passed pleasantly. When the dark cloud gathered upon the southern horizon, and Grant's regiment was ordered to Mexico, there was a tender scene in the parlor of the old Judge's home, (jood-byes were being exchanged between the lovers. Vows of faithfulness were exchanged, and then they parted. During the din and the smoke of the battle- field, the busy life in the camp and on the march, he never forgot that one who, with tears in her eyes, had bidden him good-bye. And although separated by sev- ••ral hundred miles, still her affection for him remained unchanged. Often would she direct her cry to heaven, "()h! my Father, keep him, protect him, and bring him safely back to me again." When the war was over, and '■rant liiid returned home, he found a glad welcome in lliat home which contained a treasure indeed. In Au«:ust, 58 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. 1848, Miss Julia Dont became Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant. And during the thirty-seven years of married life which followed that happy day she ever brought ;itt(TC()l(l." "True, Captain Grant. I admit that, sir. But you've AS A CITIZEN. 63 been in the army several years ; you have seen some hard service. I hope you don't mean to shrink back on account of the weather ? " '• By no means, sir ! " quickly responded Grant, raising his voice a little. "' You entirely misunderstand me, sir. I am not in the habit of shrinking any duty, however irksome. What I mean is this, sir. The present is a time of suffering among the poor, from various causes, which some of them cannot help. May I ask you if these persons who owe you this bill are sober, industrious people, who are doing the best they can ? " " Why — ^yes — I believe they are." " Do you learn that they are in distress for money ? " continued Grant. '• Yes, sir ; I understand they are rather hard up," was the reply. " And that is the reason why you wish me to press them to pay your bill ? " " Yes, Captain ; that is my object in coming to you,' answered the other, wondering what Grant was driving at. '' Then, sir, allow me to say, with all due respect, that you may collect your bill yourself; for I cannot do it." The neighbor folded the bill and placed it in his pocket, and as he watched the form of Grant as he walked away from him, he could but admire the spirit which he had manifested upon this occasion. Says one of him during that portion of his life which was spent near St. Louis : — " He put a right estimate on money, as one of the means of promoting usefulness and happiness in human society. But he did not fall down and worship, nor exalt those who had it merely because they had it, nor despise those who had it not. He set a good example of industry by being always at work at something honorable. His personal habits were simple, .;4 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. lru<^al, economical. When he contracted debts, he made every efibrt in his power to pay them ; and always repaid, as promptly as possible, every dollar of borrowed money. Temperate, indefatigable, persevering, he was ever ready, while he worked hard for himself and family, to share his wood and other products of his little farm w^ith the worthy poor." While living at St. Louis, Grant made an application to the authorities for a local office. The letter, addressed to the Honorable County Commissioners, in which he pre- sented his claims was as follows : "Gknti-emen: I beg leave to sul)mit myself as an applicaiit for the oflice of County Engineer sliould tlie office be rendered vacant, and at the same time to submit the names of a few citizens who liave been kind enough to recommend me for the office. I liave made no effort to get a large number of names, nor the names of persons with wliom I am not personally acquainted. I enclose lierewith also a statement from Prof. J." J. Reynolds, who was a classmate of mine at ^^'est Point, as to qualifications. " Sliould your honorable body see proper to give me the appoint- ment, I i)ledge myself to give the office my entire attention, and shall hope to give general satisfaction. " Very respectfully, your obedient servant, " U. S. Grant." Although this application was indorsed by a large num- hcr of his business friends, still Grant did not obtain the j)ositi()n. " There was no other special objection to him," remarks a writer, "than his supposed Democratic pro- clivities from his political antecedents. His ability as an {•ngineer was accorded. He was not much known, though the commissioners had occasionally seen him about town,' a tnll<- ,>^^J: ^ V • PITTSr.UHG LANDING. throw up any breastworks. The position, with a suitable hue of defences, was a grand one, and with them could iiave been held against a much larger force. There are two creeks, something like three miles apart, which run at about right-angles with the river. These two streams protected tlie two wings of the army. Separated from this by a distance of three miles is another, known as THE CIVIL WAR. 86 Owl creek, which, flowing in a northerly direction, empties its waters into a fourth stream called Snake creek. This protected the right flank, and behind this by far the greater part of the army was established. The streams were much swollen at this time, and hence fur- nished an admirable defence in front. The other streams were also swollen, and rendered it almost impossible for a flank movement to be made. Of the forces, Sherman was established the farthest out, in the vicinity of a log church, known as the " Shiloh Meeting-House." Beyond him were McClernand, Prentiss, Hurlburt and Wallace in regular order. The entire force amounted to 35,000 men. On Sunday, April 6th, General A. S. Johnston, at the head of 40,000 men, made an attack upon the Union forces. Prentiss was the first to receive the onset. He was soon surrounded, and forced to surrender with 3,000 men. The blow next fell upon Sherman's forces. His ill-drilled troops recoiled from the contact. Other divisions coming up,, they made a noble stand. But they could not hold their position, and so the whole line was forced to fall back, suffering great slaughter. When the battle began Grant was at Savannah, some seven miles away. As he heard the distant roar of the battle he at first thought that it w^as only between some skirmishing parties. But as the din of the conflict in- creased, and there came the sound of the heavy firing of the artillery, he at once understood its meaning, and promptly hastened to the scene of action. When the boat which had brought him thither reached the Landing, he spurred up the bank, anxious to be on the scene of the conflict. He was soon met by a large number of fugitives, w^ho confirmed his worst fears — the army was being driven back. He despatched a messenger to Crump's 86 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Landing, some five miles away, with orders for Wallace to advance. Another was also sent to Nelson, who was commanding Buell's advance, with instructions for him to hurry without delay to the relief of the discouraged troops. This done, he rode into the thick of the fray. The enemy were confident of success. And certainly they had a right to be. The main line was falling back ; jt large number of prisoners, beside three batteries and three encamp- ments, had fallen into their hands. It was very evident to Grant that his troops could not long stand against such an overwhelming tide. He, therefore, despatched an order to Buell for him to come to his relief. Wallace, who should have early come to their assistance, failed to do so, having lost his way in the woods. Mid-day passed, but no reinforcements had come. Grant and his officers exerted themselves to hold the foe in check. In the meantime Johnston had fallen, and his place had been filled by Beauregard, who declared that ere the sun should set his horse should drink of the waters of the Tennessee. In the meantime Buell had reached Savannah, at which point Grant's head-quarters were at that time established. On learning the condition of affairs at Pittsburg Landing, he at once proceeded thither. When he beheld the con- dition of the army he asked Grant what provision he had made for the transportation of his forces across the river. '• None," was the reply; " I don't despair of whipping them yet." And still he fought and urged on his men. As the sun sank behind the western hills, it seemed as if the lust liope of the scattered Union forces had been destroyed. Buell had become disheartened, and it did seem as though it needed but one more onset from the enemy to drive him from the field. Night now set in. Soon after dark the gunboats began throwing their heavy shells into the ranks of the enemy. Webster also gathered several heavy 88 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. guns, and ranging them in a semicircle, opened a terrible fire upon Beauregard's forces. The latter were thoroughly exhausted, having fought without rest since the break of day. When this new order of things was inaugurated, Beauregard ordered his troops to cease firing until day- light. This respite was gladly welcomed by both armies, which were, indeed, worn out. The wounded were suf- fered to lie uncared for upon the field of battle. All through the night their groans and cries for relief might be heard, except when drowned by the louder noise made by the bursting of the shells from the gunboats. During the night a fierce storm set in, drenching alike the dead and the living. Through this storm Grant urged his horse, visiting ihe several commanders and giving orders for them to recommence the battle at daybreak. Mid- night found him again at the Landing, thoroughly drenched. Throwing himself upon the ground, with a stump for a pillow, he was soon asleep. Nelson's troops had reached the field of battle before dark, and during the night Buell's men, which hitherto had taken no part in the action, were ferried across the river. Thus at daybreak General Grant had at his command at least 20,000 fresh troops. During the battle of the preceding day Beauregard had lost half his men, so that he had but 20,000 exhausted men to bring into the field. With the dawning of the morning hostilities again commenced. It was soon very evident that victory would at last be given to the Union troops. Beauregard was slowly driven back. He hotly contended for the possession of the ground which he had gained the pre- ceding day. He was, however, forced to retire, until at length he retreated to Corinth. Grant would have pur- sued him had his own troops been in a condition to do so. An attempt was soon after made to rob Grant of the THE CIVIL WAR. 89 glory of the victory which he had so honestly won. It was affirmed by some that he was so badly intoxicated that he was unfit for the position of commander of the troops on that occasion. The West was particularly bitter in its denunciation. The President was asked to remove him from command. The request would have been granted, but for the timely defence of Hon. E. B. Washburne, formerly his fellow-townsman. He was thus suffered to retain the position of commander, although he was in reality but a nominal commander. The army be- came broken up in the right wing and placed under tlie command of Tliomas and McClernand, and hence it fol- lowed that their orders were frequently sent to Grant's under officers rather than to him. And thus they suc- ceeded in ignoring him altogether. The injured man made no complaint, believing that time would justify him and his position. Halleck, who for a long time had felt unfavorably in- clined toward Grant, now entered the field in person, seemingly with the determination to show Grant the proper method of conducting the war. The first step was taken toward Corinth. He had a force of 120,000 men at his connnand, and yet with this large army it took him six weeks to go the distance of fifteen miles. Had Grant been given the force, with his superior qualities as commander and engineer, he would have reached Corinth, and put the enemy to rout in one-quarter the time. The position which Grant now held was far from being desirable. He knew full well the manner in which he was regarded by his fellow-officers and the country at large. Still he uttered no complaint, but performed his every duty with that fidelity with which he has ever been noted. To him it was painfully evident that the method pursued by Halleck was a false one. He, how- 90 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. ever, said nothing save in one instance, and that was at one time when the question of Beauregard's evacuating Corinth was raised in Halleck's head-quarters. He had closely watched the movements of the Confederate army, and thoroughly understood its position. And hence, in this single instance, ventured to give an opinion. He stated it to be his opinion that should a vigorous attack be made on the right wing of the enemy, it could be forced from its position, thus enabling the Union forces to wheel to the left and sweep the whole works. Halleck received the opinion with scorn, and gave him to under- stand that when his opinion was asked it would be time enough for him to give it. Grant made no reply, fully believinsx that time would show that he had not been mistaken, and also would reveal to the world the Mse methods of Halleck. On the 30th of May the latter an- nounced that the enemy was preparing for an immediate attack upon the left. He therefore drew up his entire force in battle-line, and waited for the appearance of the enemy. But no enemy was to be seen, and an inspection of their works revealed that they contained neither men nor guns. Halleck at once led his troops into the city, and took possession of it. Grant soon after visited the spot where he advised Halleck to attack the enemy, and found that he had been right in his opinion. Thus for a long time had Halleck been preparing to resist an attack which Beauregard never intended to make. In July Halleck was called to Washington to take the l)osition of commander-in-chief of all the armies. Before departing for Washington he offered the command of the Army of Tennessee to Colonel Allen, then a quarter- master. Thus his last effort in connection with that arin}^ was devoted to that purpose which he seems never to have forgotten — to disgrace Grant. In his short-sight- THE CIVIL WAR. 91 ediiess he did not or would not see that the very man whom he was seeking to injure was the one who had really saved him from an open disgrace. He failed, how- ever, to accomplish his purpose, and Grant still retained his position as commander, and established his head- quarters at Corinth. For two months he mainly devoted himself to the work of protecting the railroad connecting Bolivar with Columbus. Memphis, having fallen into the hands of the Union army, came under his supervision. The inhabitants, being thoroughly in sympathy with the Southern army, kept them informed concerning all of General Grant's movements. This, of course, could not pass unnoticed. Grant therefore issued the following order : " The families now residing in the city of Memphis of the fol- lowing persons are required to move south beyond the lines within five days of the date hereof: ^^First — All persons holding commissions in the so-called Con- federate army, or who would have voluntarily enlisted in said army, or who accompany and are connected with the same. ''Second — All persons holding office mider or in the employ of the so-called Confederate Government. " Third — All persons holding State, county or municipal offices, who claim allegiance to said co-called Confederate Government, and who have abandoned their families and gone south. " Safe conduct will be given to the parties hereby required to leave upon aj^plication to the Provost Marshal of Memphis. " By command of " U. S. Grant, "'Major-General Commanding.''^ In order that he might do no act of injustice to the innocent General Grant gave directions to the effect that such as would sign a paper stating that they had never given, and never would give, while he occupied the city, aid to the Confederate army in any way whatever, should be exempt from the sweeping effect of the above order. 92 LIFE OF GENERAT. GKANT. The Avalanche, a paper published in the city, having published many treasonable statements, was promptly suppressed. This order awakened the deepest indigna- tion, and all sorts of threats were made against General Grant, of which the following is a fair sample : U.S. Grant: S^r—^Ye have seen your infamous and fiendish proclamation. It is characteristic of your infernal policy. ... We had hoped that this war would be conducted upon the princi- ples recognized by civilized nations. But you have seen fit to ignore all the rules of civilized warfare, and resort to means which ought to and would make half-civilized nations blush. If you attempt to carry out your threat against the property of citizens, we will make you rue the day you issued your dastardly procla- mation. If we can't act on the principle of lex talionis, in regard to private property, we will visit summary vengeance upon your men. You call us guerillas, which you know is false. We are recognized hy our Government, and it was us who attacked your wagons at Morning Sun. We have twenty-three men of yours, and, as soon as you carry out your threat against the citizens of the vicinity of Morning Sun, your Hessians will pay for it. You shall conduct this war upon proper principles. We intend to force you to do it. If you intend to make this a war of extermination, you will please inform us of it at the earliest convenience. We are ready, and more than willing, to raise the " black flag." There are 2,000 partisans who have sworn to retaliate. If you do not retract your proclamation, you may expect to have scenes of the most bloody character. We all remember the manner in which your vandal soldiers put to death Mr. Owens, of Missouri. Hence- forth our motto shall be, Blood for blood, and blood for property. We intend, by the help of God, to hang on the outskirts of your raljble like liglitning around the edge of a cloud. We don't intend this as a threat, but simply as a warning of what we intend to do in case you pursue your disgraceful and nefarious policy toward our citizens, as marked out in your letter of recent date. Kespectfully, Geo. R. Merritt. During the time in which he made Corinth his head- THE CIVIL WAK. 03 quarters General Grant greatly strengthened the works around that city. This act afterward prevented the city from falling into the hands of the enemy when occupied by General Rosecranz. Grant, upon removing from Corinth, established his head-quarters at Jackson. In the meantime the enemy, commanded by Price and Van Dorn, were at work. Without any warning the former fell upon luka, which had been placed in the connnand of Murphy, and obtained possession of it. Rosecranz and Ord were at once sent against them with some eight thousand men. The expedition failed to damage the enemy to that extent which had been anticipated, on account of the information imparted to the Southern leaders by those who were in sympathy with them. Price's army, which Grant confidently believed he could destroy, got away with little loss. A letter written by a Confederate soldier will give something of an idea of the battle at this point : " We held peaceable possession of luka for one day, and on the next were alarmed by the booming of cannon, and were called out to spend the evening in battle array in the woods. On the evening of the 19th, when we supposed we were going back to camp to rest awhile, the sharp crack of musketry on the right of our former lines told us that the enemy was much nearer than we imagined. In fact, they had almost penetrated the town itself. How on earth, with the woods full of our cavalry, they could have approached so near our lines is a mystery. They had planted a battery suffi- ciently near to shell General Price's head-quarters, and were cracking away at the Third brigade when the Fourth came up at double-quick, and then for two hours and fifteen minutes was kept up the most terrific fire of musketry that ever dinned my ears. There was one !J4 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. continuous roar of small arms, while grape and canister liowU'd in rearlul concert above our heads and through our ranks. General Little was shot dead early in the action. ... It was a terrible struggle and we lost heavily. All night could be heard the groans of the dying, forming a sequel of horror and agony to the deadly •struggle over which night had kindly thrown its mantle." General Grant was proud of the brave fellows who had driven out eighteen thousand Confederates and taken possession of their quarters. As evidence of his pleasure he said to them : *' The General commanding takes great pleasure in congratulating the two wings of the army commanded, respectively, by Major-General Ord and Major-General Rosecranz, upon the energy, alacrity and bravery dis- played by them. . . . And, while congratulating the noble living, it is meet to offer our condolence to the friends of the heroic dead, who offered their lives a sac- rifice in defence of constitutional liberty, and in their fall rendered memorable the field of luka." The enemy were again encountered at Ilatchie river and defeated. General Ord was wounded and General Ilackleman, of the Union forces, was killed. This vic- tory secured peace to Western Tennessee. No sooner had the good news reached Washington than the Presi- dent telegraphed Grant as follows : "AVashington, D. C, October Sth, 1862. "Majou-General Grant: I congratulate you and all con- ctTiRMl iu your recent battles and victories. How does it all '^"'"^'P'? "A.Lincoln.' ^, » CHAPTER VI. ON TO VICKSBURG-^THE STORY OF AN IMPORTANT STRUGGLE THE DEFENCES OF VICKSBURG BASE OF SUPPLIES AT HOLLY SPRINGS GRANT FALLS BACK TO GRAND JUNCTION SHERMAN AND PORTER PROCEED AGAINST VICKSBURG UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS GRANT'S DETERMINATION AN INTERVIEW WITH UNCLE JESSE THE MAN WHO WANTED TO SEE GRANT A '' BROBOSAL " DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI BADEAU'S DESCRIPTION OF A NIGHT JACKSON CAP- TURED THE SIEGE OF VICKSBURG THE ENEMY IN DIS- TRESS — BLOWING UP THE ENEMY's WORKS A FLAG OF TRUCE — PEMBERTON ASKS FOR GRANT's TERMS OF SUR- RENDER grant's reply PEMBERTON OFFERS AN AMENDMENT '^ UNCONDITIONAL SURRENDER" THE ONLY TERMS PEMBERTON ACCEPTS HIS TREATMENT OF GRANT THE SURRENDER RESULTS OF THE VICTORY A TRIB- UTE FROM HALLECK. Having defeated the Confederate army at the points ah^eady stated, Grant proceeded to march against Vicks- burg. This point not only prevented our vessels from ascending the Mississippi, but also afforded the enemy a means of receiving their supplies. Vicksburg was pro- tected by heavy batteries established on the bluffs. To open the Mississippi to the Union gunboats, and de- stroy the power of the enemy along its banks, General Grant concentrated his forces near the Tallahatchie river in northern Mississippi, where Generals Hovey and Washburn had been operating with troops which they (95) 9G LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Imd led from Helena, Arkansas. Grant established a secondary base of supplies at Holly Springs. This place was captured by the enemy with all its stores, and for a time Grant was shut up in the enemy's country. He was forced to fall back to Grand Junction in order to save his army. Taking advantage of this movement, the Con- federates under Lieutenant-General J. C. Pemberton had gathered at Vicksburg for the purpose of protecting that point. On the same day when the enemy seized Grant's supplies, General Sherman left Memphis with transports bearing siege guns, intending to make an attack upon Vicksburg. Their numbers were increased by the union of troops from Hatteras, and by Commodore Porter, whose fleet of gunboats was at the mouth of the Yazoo river, just above Vicksburg. After consultation the two commanders deemed it ad- visable to attack the city in the rear, and proceeded at once to execute their plan. The boats and the troops proceeded up the Yazoo, intending to capture some bat- teries that blocked the way, but, being unsuccessful, abandoned the project. Early in the succeeding January General McClernand arrived, and, taking the command of Sherman's troops, proceeded up the Arkansas river to attack Confederate posts. In the meantime Grant had nrrnugcd his army into four corps, and wdth it descended the river to Memphis, determined to prosecute the siege of Vicksburg with vigor. He soon became convinced that the place could not be taken by direct assault. He next tried to perfect the canal which Farragut had en- deavored to build around Vicksburg, but failed to do so. His next move was to send a land and naval force up the Yazoo to gain the rear of Vicksburg, but was defeated in tlie attempt. Still he would not give up the fight. He had resolved to gain possession of the city, and he deter- 97 gg LIFE OP GENERAL GRANT. mined not to abandon the struggle until the flag he loved so well was Hoating over the enemy's intrenclmients. One day an old friend of Grant's, Jesse R. Dubois, of Illinois, went down to Vicksburg to see him. Jesse said to Grant : '' Now, Ulysses, how do you expect to take Vicks- burg?" " I don't know. Uncle Jesse," replied Grant. " I am somewhat embarrassed and at times in doubt. I have tried a good many things and failed, and I don't know just what I shall do next. Some want me to go back to Mc'ni[)his and commence an overland march from that point, but I don't want to do it if I can help it." " Don't do that, Ulysses," said Uncle Jesse, " for if you were to take this army back to Memphis, with all its array of gunboats, transports and materials of war, it would have a most disastrous effect on the country. We have just got through one election by the skin of our teeth, and will soon have another one upon us. The fact is, the whole Northwest is on the verge of revolution. If you go back you will strengthen the hands of the rebels in the South and the Knights of the Golden Circle in the North. They will call your movement a retreat, and more loudly than ever assert that the South cannot be whipped. If you can do no better, storm Vicksburg and take it if it costs the country the lives of 40,000 men. Such a loss is a terrible thing to think of, but it cannot be helped. Ulysses, Vicksburg must be taken." Grant made no reply. The hour being late, he retired soon after. He arose early the next morning, and, calling Dubois to him, said, with a cheerful countenance : "Uncle Jesse, I have thought it all over. Go home to-day and tell (iovernor Yates and the people of Illinois that I will take Vicksburg in sixty days." THE CIVIL WAR. 99 He kept his promise, jind almost to a day Vicksburg surrendered, and the iieart of Uncle Jesse, as well as that of many another, was made glad. Another incident which occurred during this campaign will serve to show the purity of Grant's character. One day, as he was busy in his tent, engaged with his military plans, he heard his orderly engaged in conversa- tion with a visitor, as follows: " Is ze slieneral in ze tent?" " Yes, sir ; but he is busy with his maps, and can't see you." "Oh, den he is goin' to adwance? My goodness gracious, my vriend, I must zee ze slieneral for a few little moments." " Can't be done, sir. I liave orders to admit no one." " But is he goin' to adwance ?" " How should I know ? General Grant does not 2:en- erally tell his orderlies his jolans." " But if lie vood advance, vare vood he go — ^into ze cotton region, vood he not?" " How should I know ? " " My vrend, I haf a most important brobosal to make to ze sheneral — a brobosal, mind you, my young vriend." '' Can't hear your proposal, sir. Please to step out and go on." " Sthop von little moment, my young vriend. Sthop von little moment. Vill you blease say to Sheneral Grant I haf von gran' object for him, von rich specula- tion on ze cotton — do you see ? " General Grant, who had heard the conversation from the beginning, recognized the speaker as one of those vampires who were wont to follow the army. Suddenly arising from his chair, he stepped to the door of the tent, and seizing the fellow by the collar, lifted him from the 100 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. o-rouiid and hurled him into a mud-puddle clo.se by. Be- fore the orderly could recover from his surprise, or the vic- tim exactly comprehend what had occurred, Grant had returned to his tent and was busily engaged with his maps and plans as though nothing had happened. It is scarcely necessary to add that this man did not make any further proposals. Grant's next move was to send a strong land force down the western side of the Mississippi, while Porter ran by the batteries at Vicksburg in the night with nearly his whole fleet. Of that memorable night Badeau says: "The night of the IGth of April was selected for the undertaking. There was no moon, and by ten o'clock all was ready. One after another, and as silently as possible, the venturous fleet steamed down the river to the bend. From this point they proceeded more leisurely, drifting with the current, the gunboats in advance. Porter led the way, on the ' Benton,' and reached the first batteries without being discovered ; but, at sixteen minutes past eleven, the artillery opened from the bluffs; the admiral responding with a heavy fire." As they proceeded on their way the storm of shot and shell continued with unabated fury. For two hours and forty minutes this continued, at the end of which time all the gunboats had got out of range. Grant then prepared for vigorous operation in the rear of Vicksburg, on the line of the Black river. On the 27tli of April, Porter ran by the Confederate batteries at (I rand Gulf, at which time also Grant's army crossed a little below, and defeated the enemy near Port Gibson. Grant then sent word to Sherman to proceed at once down the western side of the Mississippi and join him. This was done, and the united forces proceeded against Jackson, the capital of Mississippi, and captured it. I 102 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Then the victorious troops pushed westward toward Vicksburg. Having defeated the enemy in two engage- ments, the army swept on, and closely invested the strongly fortified city in the rear. Porter had established a station on the Yazoo, and from this the army obtained its supplies. After a short rest, Grant began the siege of Vicksburg. Sherman had been located at Walnut Hills, near Chickasaw Bayou, thus cutting off the force of the enemy at Haines' Bluff. In the meantime, McClernand, advancing on the left, had taken possession of Mount Albans, so as to cover the roads proceeding from it. Por- ter, with his fleet of gunboats, was just above Vicksburg and was preparing to fully carry out Grant's plans. Thus established, Grant was holding a line almost twenty miles in length, extending from the Yazoo to the Mississippi, at Warren ton. On the day following the arrival of his troops before them. Grant prepared to make an attack upon the Confederate batteries. Sherman began the attack on the afternoon of May 19th, Blair's division taking the lead. Throughout the morning there had been artillery firing, but now there was closer work. After a severe engagement the Union forces were repulsed. Grant then engaged Porter to assist in another assault on the 22d. All through the night of the 21st, Porter kept SIX mortars playing upon the city and the works, and sent three gunboats to make an attack ujDon the water- batteries. That night was a terrible one for Vicksburg. But (Ircadl'iil as it was, the day which followed was more dreadful still. At ten o'clock on the 22d, Grant's whole hue pressed on to the attack. As on a previous occasion, 151an- led the van, and soon the battle was general all »l'>ng the line. They were repulsed at two different points, but still they fought on. Finally the cheering THE CIVIL WAIl. 103 ntelligence was received that McCleriiand, who was on he left, had taken two forts. Sherman's troops then nade another charge upon the enemy's works, but with- )ut success. The centre, led by McPherson, met with 10 better success and were meeting with heavy losses. it soon became evident that McClernand could not hold ,vhat he had won from the enemy. Up to this time the Jnion forces had lost something like 3,000 men. Grant now determined upon a regular siege, and im- nediately began to unite lines. Reinforcements coming n, his forces soon numbered 70,000 men. The orders i:iven to the enemy by General Pemberton forbade the ivaste of ammunition, and hence General Grant was able to throw up his works within a short distance of the breastworks of the enemy. Porter kept up a steady stream of fire upon the city, during the day only, for forty days. Supplies having been cut off, the besieged found their provisions running short. Says Badeau : " The price of food in the town had by this time risen enormously. Flour was .five dollars a pound, or a thou- sand dollars a barrel (rebel money) ; meal was one hun- dred and forty dollars a bushel ; molasses, ten and twelve dollars a gallon ; and beef (very often oxen killed by the national shells and picked up by the butchers) was sold at two dollars and two dollars and a half by the pound. Mule-meat sold at a dollar a pound, and was in great demand. Many families had eaten the last mouthful of food they possessed, and the poorer classes of non-com- batants were on the verge of starvation. There was scarcely a building that had not been struck by shells, and many were entirely demolished. A number of women and children had been killed or wounded by mortar-shells or balls, and all who did not remain in the damp caves of the hillsides were in danger. Even the j„j LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. hospitals where the wounded lay were sometimes struck, for it was found impossible to prevent occasional shells from falling on the buildings, which of course would have been sacred from an intentional fire. Fodder was ex- hausted, and the horses were compelled to subsist wholly on corn-tops, the corn being all ground into meal for the soldiers." The progress of the mining operations was such that on the 25th of June a fort which the Confederates had established on the immediate right of the Jackson road, and occupied by the Third Louisiana regiment, was blown up. The enemy had anticipated this movement, and had withdrawn to an inner line of intrenchments, so that it followed that only a few men were injured by the explosion. As soon as the fort had been blown up a strong column advanced to storm the line. They were met l)y the Sixth Missouri, and a bloody contest ensued, in which there was a heavy loss on both sides. The Federal force then retired. Four days later the same portion of the enemy's line was again blown up, but no attempt to charge was made. The enemy made several attempts to countermine, but were unsuccessful. On the 3d of July, about half-past seven in tlio morning, a flag of truce was seen on the crest of a hill above the camp of General Burridge. An officer was at once despatched to escort the bearers of it (who were two Confederate officers), blindfolded, to the tent of General A. J. Smith. These officers were Major- General Bowen and Colonel Montgomery, of Virginia. They bore the following despatch from General Pem- berton to General Grant : " Head-quarters, Vicksburg, July od, 1863. ■" Miij.-(jcn. U. H. Grant, commanding U. S. Forces: "Gknkj{al : I have the honor to propose to you an armistice for THE CIVIL WAR. 105 hours, with a view of arranging for the capitulation of Vicksburg. To this end, if agreeable to you, I will appoint three commissioners to meet a like number named by yourself, at such place and hour as you may find convenient. I make this proposi- tion to save further effusion of blood, which must otherwise be shed to a frightful extent, feeling myself fully able to maintain my position a yet indefinite period. This communication will be handed you, under a flag of truce, by Major-General James Bowen. " Very respectfully, your obedient servant, " John C. Pembertox." To this despatch General Grant replied as follows : Head-quarters Department of Tenni<:ssee, " In the Field near Vicksburg, July ^d, 1863. "'Lieut.- Gen. J. C. Pemberton, commanding Confederate Forces, etc. : " General : Your note of this date, just received, proposes an armistice for several hours, for the purpose of arranging terms of capitulation, through commissioners to be appointed, etc. The effusion of blood you propose stopping by this course can be ended at any time you may choose by an unconditional surrender of the city and garrison. Men who have shown so much endurance and courage as those now in Vicksburg will always challenge the re- spect of an adversary, and, I can assure you, will be treated with all the respect due them as prisoners of war. I do not favor the proposition of appointing commissioners to arrange terms of capitulation, because I have no other terms than those indicated above. " I am, General, ver}- respectfully, your obedient servant, ''U. S. Grant, Major- GeneraV In a subsequent communication Grant stated the terms upon which he would accept the surrender of Vicksburg : ^' As soon as paroles can be made out and signed by officers and men you will be allowed to march out of our lines — the officers taking with them regimental clothing, and staff, field and cavalry officers one horse each. The rank and file will be allowed all their clothing, but no other prop- erty. If the conditions are accepted, any amount of 106 LIFE OF GENERAL GRAXT. rations you may deem necessary can be taken from the stores you now have, and also cooking utensils for pre- paring them. Thirty wagons also— counting two two- horse or mule teams as one— will be allowed you to transport such articles as cannot be carried along. The same conditions will be allowed to all sick and wounded officers and privates as fast as they become able to travel. The paroles for these latter must be signed, however, whilst officers are present authorized to sign the roll of prisoners." To the proposal Pemberton objected on the ground that it was unjust in its treatment of his soldiers. He proposed the following amendment : " At ten o'clock to-morrow I propose to evacuate the works in and around Vicksburg, and to surrender the city and garrison under my command by marching out with my colors and arms, and stacking them in front of my present lines, after which you will take possession. Officers to retain their side arms and personal property, and the rights and property of citizens to be respected." To this letter General Grant immediately replied as. follows : J " Head-quarters Department of the Tennessee, 1 "'■Before Vicksburg^ July Ath, 1863. " Lieut.-Gen. J. C. Pemberton, commanding forces in Vicksburg : "General: I have the honor to acknowledge your communi- cation of 3d July. The amendments proposed by you cannot be acceded to in full. It will be necessary to furnish every officer and man with a parole, signed by himself, which, with completion of the rolls of prisoners, will necessarily take some time. Again, I can make no stipulation in regard to the treatment of citizens and their private property. While I do not propose to cause any of them any undue annoyance or loss, I cannot consent to liavc myself under restraint by stipulations. The property wliich officers can be allowed to take with them will be the same as stated in jiropositiou of last evening If you mean by your propo- '7 IJT*> 107 JOS LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. sition for each brigade to march to the front of the lines now oc- cupied by it, and stack tlieir arras at ten o'clock a. m., and then return inside and remain as prisoners until properly paroled, I ^vill make no objections to it. Should no modification be made of your acceptance of my terms by nine o'clock a. m., I shall re- gard them as having been rejected, and act accordingly. Should these terms l)e accepted, white flags will be displayed along your lines to prevent such of my troops as may not have been notified from firing upon your men. " I am, General, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "U. S. Grant, Major-General U. S. Army." This arrangement was at once accepted by General Peniberton, and at ten o'clock on the same day the Con- federate forces marched out and stacked arms in front of tlieir works, while General Pemberton and staff appeared for a moment upon the parapet of the central front. The meeting between General Grant and General Pem- berton the former described as follows : "• While one of the Illinois regiments," he said, "was raising its flag upon the court house at Vicksburg, I deemed it but an act of courtesy to pay my respects to Pemberton, and went in search of his head-quarters. I found him seated on the piazza of a house, surrounded by his officers and staff. No one advanced to receive me or recognized my j)resence in any way. I dismounted my horse and joined the party on the porch, when Pem- IxTtou acknowledged the acquaintance by a slight nod. Hl' offered me no seat, and I remained standing while he and his subordinates were sitting. A Mississippi general linally arose and pushed toward me his chair. " Tiie day was oppressively warm and cloudy, and to relieve the constraint of the interview I asked for a glass of water. Pemberton pointed to the interior of the house, and I groped my way through it to a well in the rr:ir, wlicrc 1 Ibund a negro, who drew up a bucket and THE CIVIL WAE. 109 tendered me a drink from a gourd. I returned to the party on the piazza and found my chair reoccupied, and although I remained standing for twenty minutes I was not offered a seat again ; and I left Pemberton and went on my way. Our sole conversation was about the supply of rations for his troops, and I learned then, for the first time, the number of men who had surrendered, having presumed all along that there were but 15,000 to 20,000 men in the garrison." The result of his operations is thus summed up by General Grant: CAVE LIFE IN VICKSBURG DURING ITS SIEGE. " The result of this campaign has been the defeat of the enemy in five battles outside of Vicksburg, the occupation of Jackson, the capital of the State of Mis- sissippi, and the capture of Vicksburg and its garrison and munitions of war ; a loss to the enemy of 30,000 prisoners, among whom were fifteen general officers ; at least 10,000 killed and wounded, and among the killed Generals Tracy, Tilghman and Green ; and hundreds, and perhaps thousands, of stragglers, who can never be reorganized. Arms and munitions of war for an army of 60,000 men have fallen into our hands, besides a large nn LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. amount of other public property, consisting of railroads, locouiotives, cars, steamboats, cotton, etc. ; and much was destroyed to prevent our capturing it. '• Our loss in the series of battles may be summed up as ibllows : 1,243 killed, 7,095 wounded and 537 missing. 01" the wounded, many were but slightly wounded, and continued on duty; many more required but a few days or weeks for their recovery. Not more than one-half of the wounded were permanently disabled." On Saturday, the 11th of July, the paroles were com- pleted, and at half an hour before noon the rebel garrison took up its line of march from Vicksburg and proceeded to ]5ig Black river. As they reached the fortifications, each man's name was called and checked off on the rolls. National troops were placed as guards on both sides of the road, for some distance beyond the intrenchments ; and, in all the bitterness of defeat, the prisoners inarched by. Ail that had heretofore passed was as nothing to this. Amid the thickest storm of battle there had always been the expectation of succor or success; while they lay on the weary picket, or in the hot trenches, they had still hoped on, though hope was long deferred. But now all hope was gone ; the rebel yell of defiance, so often raised in battle, opposed to the national cheer, might not be heard; their willing hands no longer grasped familiar weapons; the standards, under which they had fought so proudly, were in the keeping of their conquerors. Large tear-drops fell on many a weather-beaten face, :ind ever and anon they paused, and, turning back, toolv one last look at the city they had striven so hard to retain. The national army gazed on in silence; proud as was the sight to them, exultant as were the '•"lotions with which they contemplated a spectacle that ivpaid (li.Mii a thousand-fold for all their toils, and THE CIVIL WAR. Ill wounds, and sufferings, they yet could not but pity the humiliation of their foes. No insulting taunt was heard, no cheer of triumph nor mocking cannon saluted the ears of the prisoners. Silently and sadly they moved on, and in a few hours were free from the taint of treason. On the 13th the President addressed the following letter to General Grant ; "Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C, July 13^/i, 18G3. " My dear General : I do not remember that you and I ever met personally. I write this now as a grateful acknowledgment for the almost inestimable service you have done the country. I wish to say a word further. When you first reached the vicinity of Vicksburg I thought you should do what you finally did — march the troops across the neck, run the batteries with the trans- ports and thus go below, and I never had any faith, except a gen- eral liope that you knew better than I, that the Yazoo Pass expe- dition and tlie like could succeed. When you got below and took Port Gibson, Grand Gulf and vicinity, I thought you sliould go down the river and join General Banks ; and when you turned northward, east of the Big Black, I feared it was a mistake. I now wish to make a personal acknowledgment that you were right .and I was wrong. "Yours very truly, ^^ Major- General Grant. "A. Lincoln." General Halleck, who had never acted very friendly toward General Grant, in a letter acknowledging Grant's modest account of the capitulation, says : " Your report, dated July 6th, of your campaign in Mississippi, ending in the capitulation of Vicksburg, was received last even- ing. Your narration of the campaign, like the operations themselves, is brief, soldierly and in every respect cred- itable and satisfactory. In boldness of plan, rapidity of execution and brilliancy of routes, those operations will compare favorably with those of Napoleon about Ulm. You and your army have well deserved the gratitude of your country, and it will be the boast of our children 112 THE CIVIL WAR. that their fathers were of the heroic army which reopened the Mississippi river." In his annual report General Halleck also says : " When we consider the character of the country in wliich this army operated, the formidable obstacles to be overcome, the number of forces and the strength of the enemy's works, we cannot fail to admire the courage and endurance of the troops and the skill and daring of their commander. No more brilliant exploit can be found in militar}^ history. It has been alleged, and the allegation has been widely circulated by the press, that General Grant, in the conduct of his campaign, positively dis- obeyed the instructions of his superiors. It is hardly necessary to remark that General Grant never disobeyed an order or instruction, but always carried out to the best of his ability every wish or suggestion made to him by the Government. Moreover, he has never comjDlained that the Government did not furnish him all the means and assistance in its power to facilitate the execution of any plan he saw fit to adopt." These statements, coming as they did from General Halleck, served to correct many false impressions which had gone out concerning General Grant and his move- ments. In appreciation of the services thus rendered, Congress made him a Major-General in the regular army.. CHAPTER VII. MISSISSIPPI OPENED TO TRADE GRANT WANTS TO ATTACK MOBILE, BUT IS NOT PERMITTED REINFORCES ROSECRANZ AN INCIDENT — " YOU MAY STOP AWHILE, CAPTAIN " GRANT INJURED CHICKAMAUGA THE SECRETARY OF WAR TELEGRAPHS FOR GRANT IS GIVEN A NEW COM- MAND — THE STRUGGLE FOR CHATTANOOGA PEMBERTON's OPINION BATTLE OF LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN " WE'vE WHIPPED 'em, general" CONGRESS PRESENTS GRANT WITH A GOLD MEDAL IS MADE LIEUTENANT-GENERAL RECOLLECTIONS OF GRANT. For a long time the Mississippi had been closed to the northwestern trade, and the people now began to clamor for the re-establishment of business with the South. In this desire they met a ready support from Chase, at that time Secretary of the Treasury. Grant, however, looked at the matter in a different light. He believed to do so would be to open the South to an army of adventurers. Subsequent events clearly showed that he had not been mistaken in his opinion. About this time Grant expressed a desire to move on Mobile, but notwithstanding he urged this step upon the Government, still he was not permitted to take the step. " I am confident," he wrote, " that Mobile could now be taken with a comparatively small force. At least a demonstration in that direction would either result in the (113) 114 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. abandonment of the city or force the enemy to weaken Bragg's army to hold it." To have carried out his j)lan of action would have been to continue the series of victories which had been inau- gurated. Instead of being permitted to do so, however, liis troops were taken from him to reinforce Banks and Eosecranz — the latter being established at that time at Chattanooga. While Grant was at Vicksburg, an incident occurred which is well worthy of note just here. The Mississippi had been opened for navigation, and steamers, as they left the wharf at Vicksburg, often bore with them soldiers to whom furloughs had been granted. One day Grant ap- proached a person standing on a wheel-house at the levee, and asked : " Are you captain of this steamer ? " " I am. General," was the reply. "Are you about going off?" " Yes, sir." " How many officers and soldiers have you on board ? " "About twelve hundred and fifty, sir." " What is the average price you charge them from Vicksburg to Cairo, captain ? " " From ten to twenty-five dollars each. General." " Is that all ? Very moderate — very moderate, indeed ! From ten to twenty-five dollars each for United States officers and soldiers, from Vicksburg to Cairo. See here, captain," continued Grant, somewhat warmly, " you may tie up your steamer a little while. It seems a great pity you should have to transport the boys at such extrava- gantly low prices. You may stop awhile, captain." And with these words Grant quietly walked to his head-quarters. Seating himself before his table, he wrote an (jrder bidding the captain of the steamer pay back all THE CIVIL WAR. 115 that he had received over seven dollars from the officers and five dollars from the men, on the pain of having his boat and cargo confiscated to the Government. This order was at once carried into effect. In the meantime the passengers were wondering why the steamer did not start, but wdien they learned the reason, then a glad chorus of cheers arose as an evidence that they appreciated this kindness on his part. "A pretty piece of business, this, as it stands," re- marked Grant to one of his staff. " I will teach a lesson to these steam-pirates; plundering the men who have opened the river for them of their hard-earned wages. The old Mississippi is all free to honorable navigation, but not to imposition. No, sir, not to imposition, sir, while I am in command at Vicksburg." While on a visit to New Orleans to see General Banks before the latter departed for Texas, General Grant was thrown from his horse and badly injured. So severe was the injury that for twenty days he was forced to lie in one position. He did not return until September 16th. He had to be moved on his couch, and it was not until the 25th that he was able to get around with the aid of crutches. During this time Rosecranz had concentrated his force near the Chickamauga river. Here he gave battle to the enemy, and was badly beaten, and had it not been for Thomas, would have lost nearly, if not quite, all of his army. It became at once evident that it needed some one having Grant's make-up to take hold of the matter. The Secretary of War telegraphed as follows : " It is the wish of the Secretary of War that as soon as General. Grant is able to take the field he will come to Cairo and report by telegraph." To this Grant replied from Columbus, Kentucky, as follows : 116 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT " Your despatch from Cairo, of the 3d, directing me to report at Cairo, was received at 11.30 on the 10th. Left tlie same day with staff and head-quarters, and am here, < /; route for Cairo." The Secretary of War met General Grant at Indian- apohs, and gave him an order estabUshing for him a new command, afterwards known as the Military Division of the Mississippi. This was to embrace all the territory between the Alleghenies and the Mississippi river, except- ing only that occupied by Banks' Division. Grant then proceeded to Nashville, and was here given permission to decide whether Thomas or Rosecranz should take charge of the army under him. He decided in favor of Thomas, and immediately sent an or- der to Chattanooga in- forming that officer of his appointment. Grant hastened on as fast as possible. Having re- ceived from Washino^- ton the intelligence that there was some danger of the Union troops not being able to maintain their existing position, he telegraphed Thomas : " Hold Ghattamoija at all hazards. I will U there soon as j)ossihle" Thomas replied: ''/ iclll hold tlie town till I starve ! " From Nashville Grant and his staff" proceeded on horse- back. Grant was still obliged to use crutches, and of course tins mode of travelling was somewhat severe. But GEORGE H. THOMAS. THE CIVIL WAIi. 117 under the circumstances it seemed to be the best thing to be done. The recent rains had rendered the roads ahnost impassable. At some points the horses were led by the €scort, and Grant was tenderly carried in the arms of the soldiers over the most difficult places. Having reached Chattanooga, Grant at once proceeded to the head-quarters of General Thomas and telegraphed his arrival to the Department at Washington. The pres- ence of Grant at Chattanooga infused new life into the " boys in blue." The enemy, on the contrary, regarded it as meaning ill to them. It is stated that one day Jefferson Davis visited the army at this point, and while here said, with a sneer, to General Bragg, who was standing beside him : "All right; we have the Federals now. This is the right spot of all others where we should wish them to be. Now let them come on ! " General Pemberton, who had given up his sword to Grant at Vicksburg, chanced to hear the remark. He very quietly said : " Mr. President, excuse me. I have been blamed for not ordering an attack on Grant at Vicksburg ; but allow me to say, sir, that if you order an attack on him here in Chattanooga, the result will be that he will soon stand where we are standing now." Davis made no reply, but subsequent events proved the correctness of Pemberton's prediction. Early in November it became evident that the two armies would meet in decisive conflict. Burnside had been stationed at Knoxville, and it was decided by the Confederate authorities that he must be driven from his position. The distance from Chattanooga to Knoxville is something like eighty miles. Several causes delayed the advance of Longstreet, who had been detailed to do 118 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. this work. He, however, did appear before the place on the 17th, and was repulsed. He then decided to starve the troops into a surrender. Grant despatched troops to the relief of the besieged general, and the enemy were forced to quit the field. In the meantime a decisive action had occurred else- where. On the 16th Grant issued orders for an attack upon the enemy at Chattanooga. On the right was Hooker, liis division extending to the west side of Look- out Mountain. Thomas occupied the centre, looking toward Missionary Ridge. Sherman held the extreme left, and at the time was on the north side of the river, creeping cautiously toward Missionarj- Ridge behind the shelter of a range of hills. On the 23d Thomas moved forward in such close and well-ordered lines that the enemy, as they watched him, supposed that he was preparing for a review and a drill. As they continued to approach, the Confederates became alarmed and sprang to their guns. The Union forces still continued to press forw^ard, and notwithstanding the fierce fire of the enemy, succeeded in reaching the fort of Orchard Knob. This is a prominent peak, and it was deemed important to take it. Without an instant's halt the troops rushed up the hill and routed the enemy. During the succeeding night a heavy battery was planted on the hill, and the whole line was strongly intrenched. Karly in the morning of the 24th (a dark, disagree- al)le day it was, with rain and mist falling alternately), with Sherman at the head, 3,000 men were on the move with pontoons, and at daylight had succeeded in driving the enemy from a desirable position, and at noon had laid two pontoon bridges. One of these was fourteen hundred feet long, spanning the Tennessee; the other two lii'iulred feet, extending over the South Chickamau^a, I|l/tf 'l,!|,,,,,,, m i l.ii »i'''MPI ill ' *l. 119 120 LIFE OF ge:n^ekal graxt. opening up a route for the cavalry. At one o'clock Sher- man led his troops over these bridges. It was his inten- tion to fall at once on Bragg's right. But on reaching the summit of the hill he found that he could not carry out his original plan. Moving on he began the ascent of Lookout Mountain. A fierce conflict followed which has since become celebrated as " the battle above the clouds." It was a fierce struggle, but it ended in victory for the Union forces. The sun on the following day arose in a cloudless sky. The attack upon the enemy was renewed. Eagerly the soldiers pressed on, and throughout the day poured an un- ceasing storm of lead into the ranks of the enemy. Like brave men the latter stood their ground, determined not to yield. But the odds were too great for them. Like an unchecked avalanche the hosts of Grant swept down upon them. Just as the sun sank behind the western hills, painting the skies with the beauties of an autumnal sun- set, the shout of victory rose from the lips of the patriots of the North. The enemy threw down their arms in regi- ments, and a few cannoneers, who still stood defiantly by their guns, were bayoneted in the battle-frenzy that had carried the victorious army up that murderous steep, and the guns themselves were promptly turned upon the now already fleeing foe. After the second line of rifle pits had been taken, Grant could no longer remain at Orchard Knob, but at once proceeded to the front. As he rode over the battle-field some of the soldiers recognized him. He was greeted with cheers, some of the men also slioutino; : '• We've whipped 'em. General ! — all we wanted was a leader ! The Army of the Cumberland ain't filled with cowards ! We are even ivith 'em now for Cliicha7nauga! " By midnight Bragg, seeing the hopelessness of the THE CIVIL WAR. 12i situation, had abandoned all his positions on Lookout Mountain, Chattanooga Valley, and Missionary Ridge. The enemy were pursued as far as circumstances would permit. Grant issued the following address of congratulation to his troops : " Head-quarters Military Division of the Mississippi. ''In the Field, Chattanooga, Tenn., December 10th, 1863. "The Genenil commanding takes this opportunity of returning his sincere thanks and congratulations to the brave Armies of the ■Cumberland, the Ohio, the Tennessee, and their comrades from the Potomac, for the recent splendid and decisive successes achieved over the enemy. In a short time you have recovered from them the control of the Tennessee river from Bridgeport to Knoxville. You dislodged him from Chattanooga Valley, wrested from his determined grasp the possession of Missionary Ridge, repelled with heavy loss to him his repeated assaults upon Knox- ville, forcing him to raise the siege there, driving him at all points, utterly routed and discomfited, beyond the limits of the State. By your noble heroism and determined courage you have eflfect- iially defeated the plans of the enemy for regaining possession of the States of Kentucky and Tennessee. You have secured posi- tions from which no rebellious power can drive or dislodge you. For all this the General commanding thanks you collectively and individually. The loyal people of the United States thank and bless you. Their hopes and prayers for your success against this unholy rebeUion are with you daily. Their faith in you will not be in vain. Their hopes will not be blasted. Their prayers to Almighty God will be answered. You will yet go to other fields of strife, and with the invincible bravery and unflinching loyalty to justice and right which have characterized you in the past you will prove that no enemy can withstand you, and that no defences, however formidable, can check your onward march. " By order Major-General U. S. Grant. " T. S. Boioers, A. A. G^ The United States Congress, which was sitting at that time, promptly showed its appreciation of the services thus 122 LIFE OF GEXERAL GRAXT. rendered by General Grant. A gold medal was ordered to be struck and presented to him as an evidence of the national appreciation of his services. It was decided to revive the office of Lieutenant-Goneral, and to offer that position to Grant. When the proposition was presented to Lincoln, the latter said : " I have never seen Grant. Before I appoint him I want to learn all about him that is possible. Who of his friends knows him best?" A gentleman named Russell Jones was named, and it was not lono- before the President was in conversation with him. The result was the appointment was confirmed, and Grant was summoned at once to Washington. Grant reached the national capital at about five o'clock in the afternoon, and so unpretentious was his appearance that he had taken his seat at the table of Willard's Hotel before his presence was known. Among those present was a gentleman who had previously met Grant, and it was not long before his presence was made known. " The hero of Vicksburg is here," was the whispered expression which passed from one to another, and in the next instant a perfect storm of cheers burst forth from the lips of an admiring people. At one o'clock on the following day, the 9th of March, accompanied by his staff and his son Fred, he was received by the President and his Cabinet. After the introduc- tion which followed, the President stepped forward and said : " General Grant : The nation's appreciation of what you have done, and its reliance upon you for what re- mains to be done in the existing great struggle, are now presented with this commission, constituting you Lieu- tenant-General in the Army of the United States. With this high honor devolves upon you also a corresponding responsibility. As the country herein trusts you, so. VJ4 THE CIVIL WAR. under God, it will sustain you. I scarcely need to add that with what I here speak for the nation goes my own hearty personal concurrence." General Grant replied as follows : '• Mr. President : I accept the commission^ with grati- tude for the high honor conferred. With the aid of the noble armies that have fought on so many fields for our common country, it will be my earnest endeavor not to disappoint your expectations. I feel the full weight of the responsibilities now devolving on me, and I know that if they are to be met, it will be due to those armies, and, above all, to the favor of that Providence which leads both nations and men." Despite a general confidence in the final success of the national cause at this time, there were contingencies and anxieties that President Lincoln felt should be known to and shared by the military leader in whom the hopes of the country were now placed. Secretary Seward had con- vincino: reasons for knowins: that the dan2;er of foreign intervention had not passed away, and that any serious check to the Federal arms might bring it upon us so sud- denly and effectively as to completely turn the tide of events. Secretary Chase was holding gloomy views con- cerning the financial future, owing to the enormous and steadily growing cost of the Federal armaments. Secre- tary Stanton, who never permitted himself to think of but one end, had begun to doubt whether the means to tliat end would hold out in sufficient measure and dura- lion. President 'Lincoln embodied in his own person the di.s(pjieting knowledge and the fears of all his heads of departments. General Grant, away off in the West, hold- ing little official connnunication with Washington, and IK'rsonally a stranger to the members of the administration, had cuini)aratively little knowledge of the general situa- LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. 125 tion, and was of that mental habit that concentrates a man's thoughts upon the thing of the moment. " It needed the visit to Washington and contact with the President and Cabinet to bear in upon him the su- preme importance, from the stand-point of both domestic and foreign pohtics, of successfully assailing the army of Lee and the capital of the Confederacy. So long as both remained defiantly almost within the shadow of the national capital, victories in the West in large part failed of their proper immediate effect, and in truth served to quicken the desperate efforts which Secretary Seward knew the Emperor Napoleon to be making to gain mate- rial or at least moral support in Europe for an interven- tion. In the eyes of the Administration General Lee's army was the indispensable objective point of any opera- tion designed to aftect public opinion at home or abroad, and hence the conclusion that General Grant should take charge of the Army of the Potomac and conduct a move- ment against Richmond and the army under Lee. " He went out to General Meade's head-quarters, and as the result of a prolonged conference with that commander, in which he gained some new views of a new situation, he resolved not to displace Meade, either by assuming the immediate conmiand himself, or by procuring the assign- ment of another to the command. It was characteristic of Grant that, having made up his mind on this important matter, his decision was full and final. In spite of assu- rances from friends at Washington, in the West and in Meade's own army, that the removal of that officer was little short of a necessity, he never entertained the thought of displacing him from first to last; and so little did he interfere with the internal administration of the Army of the Potomac that he did not propose Sheridan for the command of the cavalry until he learned that 1.2,; THE CIVIL WAR. Moado wished a change, and altliough he repeatedly made known to Meade his wisli to displace Warren from the command of the Fifth Corps, he yielded to the tenacity Avith which Meade clung to that officer, until Sheridan took the matter into his own hands in an emergency. " Upon joining the Army of the Potomac, General Grant established for himself a little camp four miles distant from the general head-quarters, and here he received and listened to such officers of that army as chose to call upon him, but quietly kept off" intrigue and insubordination, and this course he steadily pursued to the close, " Before opening the campaign, he startled the authori- ties at Washington b}' asking that General McClellan might be restored to active duty, and became so urgent about it, taking such a high view of McClellan's military abilities, that the President and Mr. Sew\ard supported him, and even Secretary Chase stood neutral. But the passionate and fiery invective of Secretary Stanton pre- vailed over all, and the Lieutenant-General w^as firmly informed that General McClellan was an impossibility in any military situation. The Secretary of War was not so unyielding as to General Buell, but that stubborn sol- dier refused all overtures unless the injustice done him by the War Department should be formally as well as sub- stantially expiated, and in this pursuit of a shadow lost ins last chance of crowning a military career full of merit, but also full of misfortune." Grant's first object was to get the military affairs out of the entanglement into which Halleck had plunged them. The two men were as opposite in their ideas of how the war should be carried on as they were in how a battle should be fought. One was for cutting off the tail first, and then the claws, and so work by regular, safe up.nnM.lw.s up to the head— the other, for a close and THE CIVIL WAR. 127 deadly interlock, in which the life of one or the other should go out before it should unloose. One wished to carry on the war by operating with different armies on separate points — the other, for concentrating them all on one vital point. Like Napoleon, Grant had no idea of winter quarters, or the proper season for carrying on a campaign. When once his blows began to fall, he pro- jDOsed they should never cease falling until the object was ground to powder. His aim was, as he said, " To hammer continuously against the armed force of the enemy until by the mere attrition of the lesser with the larger body, the former should be worn out." Such was the policy with which he assumed command of the entire army. He further said, "The armies in the East and West acted independently and without concert, like a balky team, no two ever pulling together, enabling the enemy to use to great advantage his interior lines of communication for transporting troops from east to west, reinforcing the army most vigorously pressed, and to furlough large numbers during seasons of inactivity on our part, to go to their homes and do the work of providing for the support of their armies, so that it was a question whether our numerical strength and resources were not more than balanced by these disadvantages and the enemy's superior position." His decision was to compel united action. CHAPTER VIII. THE STRENGTH OF THE ARMY — GRANT STATES THE STRENGTH OF THE CONFEDERATES — POSITION OF THE CONFEDERATE AR^y — IN THE WILDERNESS GRANT'S PROPOSED LINE OF WARFARE — THE STORY OF A SEVERE STRUGGLE ADVANC- ING AND RETREATING MOVING TOWARD RICHMOND SOME SHREWD ENGINEERING — ON THE BANKS OF THE CHICKA- HOMINY A TERRIBLE BATTLE LEE PROCEEDS TO RICH- MOND — GRANT PROPOSES TO LAY SIEGE TO PETERSBURG MINING THE ENEMY's WORKS — GRANT RECEIVES A VISITOR '• NO SANITARY FOLKS WANTED " THE EXPEDITION TO DEEP BOTTOM — THE SYMPATHY OF GRANT HIS LETTER TO A LONELY HEART BUTLER ATTACKS FORT HARRISON A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT A TRIBUTE FROM SCOTT PHILADELPHIA PRESENTS HIM WITH A HOME. The plans adopted for the spring campaign of 1864 were formed upon the assumption that the Federal armies were not to consist, at the opening of the campaign, of less than a million men. On the 1st of May they nom- inally came within 30,000 of that number, but of these only 000,000 men were reported as " present for duty." Three hundred and ten thousand of this force were in Virginia and the Carolinas. The Confederate army had something like 125,000 men in the same field. Grant's idea of the artual condition of the Confederate array was stated in a letter to the Hon. E, B. Washburne, as follows : "They have in their ranks their last man. The little THE CIVIL WAR. 129 boys and old men are guarding prisoners, guarding rail- road bridges, and forming a good part of their garrisons for intrenched positions. A man lost by them cannot be replaced. Tltey have robbed the cradle and the grave equally to get their present force. Besides what they lose in frequent skirmishes and battles, they are now losing from desertions and other causes at least one regiment per day. " With this drain upon them, the end is not far dis- tant, if we will only be true to ourselves. Their only hope now is in a divided North. This might give them reinforcements from Tennessee, Kentucky, Maryland, and Missouri, while it would weaken us. With the draft quickly enforced, the enemy would become despondent, and would make but little resistance. I have no doubt but the enemy are exceedingly anxious to hold out until after the Presidential election. They have many hopes from its effects. " They hope a counter revolution; they hope the election of the peace candidate. In fact, like ' Micawber,' they hope for something to ' turn up.' Our peace friends, if they expect peace from separation, are much mistaken. It would be but the beginning of war, with thousands of Northern men joining the South because of their disgrace in allowing separation. To have 'peace on any terms, the South would demand the restoration of their slaves already freed ; they would demand indemnity for losses sustained ; and they would demand a treaty which would make the North slave-hunters for the South. They would demand pay for or the restoration of every slave escaping to the North." At this time there were two great Confederate armies to be met and crushed — that of Lee, in Virginia, and that of Johnston, in Georgia. Sherman was commissioned to 130 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. undertake the latter task. His instructions from Grant were : " To move against Johnston's army, break it up, and go into the interior of the enemy's country, as far as pos- sible, inflicting all the damage that can be done upon their war resources." To General Meade he said : " Lee's army is to be your objective point ; wherever that goes, you must go." The series of operations thus contemplated were to be commenced simultaneously, and, as nearly as possible, on the 1st of May. During the winter the Confederate army of Northern Virginia had lain in winter-quarters, occupying a distance of some twenty miles on the south side of the Rapidan. Although the position was naturally strong, yet they had skilfully fortified it. In their front, every ford was com- manded by rifle-pits, and intrenchments crowned every hill-top. Lee, supposing that an attack would be made upon his left, had massed the greater part of his forces at that point. The corps commanded by Ewell and Hill had taken position behind the defences of the Rapidan, their centre being at Orange Court House. Longstreet was at Gordonsville, some thirteen miles farther to the southwest. Rut Grant had decided to attack, not the leftj as Lee had supposed, but the right wing of the army. His plan was to force the enemy from his position, thinking that could he do so, he might engage him in battle nearer Richmond. Rflbre daylight, on the morning of May 4th, the Army of the Potomac were on the move. They proceeded in two columns to the lower fords of the Rapidan. The crossing was effected some ten miles from the nearest THE CIVIL WAR. 131 camp of the enemy, so that Lee was unable, had he been disposed, to prevent the passage. Lee thought that once in the Wilderness he would certainly have Grant at a disadvantage. During the preceding winter Lee had caused accurate surveys to be made of the whole region, and hence was familiar with all of it. Knowing that Grant knew little or nothing concerning it, he believed that with his 65,000 men he could easily defeat twice that number, should they be brought against him. On the evening of the 4th of May, Grant and Meade had established their head-quarters at a roadside inn, near the centre of the Wilderness. Early on the following morning Warren was on the move, and was soon engaged in battle with the enemy. Sedgwick and Hancock were ordered to support him. The fighting was close and furious, neither seeming to gain the advantage. At four o'clock in the afternoon both armies drew back and in- trenched themselves. During the night both commanders laid their plans for an early attack on the following day. Lee, however, made the first movement, throwing Ewell against the Federal right. They were repelled, and Han- cock at once proceeded to make an attack upon the Con- federate right, by which movement Hill was forced a mile and a half from his position. Longstreet coming to the rescue, prevented further flight. The latter had been ordered to make a flank movement, but while seeking to carry out this order, he was severely wounded through a mistake made by his own men, and his command fell upon R. H. Anderson. The enemy then made an attack upon Hancock, who succeeded in driving them back to their own lines. The fighting thus far had been done wholly with muskets, the nature of the ground rendering it impossible to make use of either cavalry or artillery. The loss which the Federal forces had sustained was 132 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. about 15,000 killed and wounded, besides 5,000 prisoners. The Confederates lost about 10,000 killed and wounded, and a lew prisoners. Still the real advantage was on the side of the former. Dav after day the battle was renewed, each commander lirndy resolved to force the other from his position. On the 11th Grant sent the following despatch to the War Department : " We have now ended the sixth day of hard fighting. The result to this day is much in our favor. Our losses have been very heavy, as well as those of the enemy. / l^ropose to fi'jlit it out on this line if it takes all simi- vier." Notwithstanding this determination. Grant was com- pelled to fight it out on quite a different line, and it took not only all sunnner, but until the following spring. This assault upon Lee's left had showed that point to be impregnable. There appeared, however, to be a weak point in his centre, and accordingly a strong assault was made upon it. Early in the morning, and under cover of a dense fog, Hancock made the attack. Without firing a shot the enemy's pickets were driven back, and ere long the breastworks were carried. The defences had been occupied by Johnson's division of Ewell's corps, num- bering 4,000 men, three-quarters of whom were made prisoners. Something like half a mile beyond this first line of breastworks, a second had been laid out and partly lortified. Here Ewell took a firm stand, being at once reinforced by Hill and Anderson. The position thus occupied was an important one to the Confederate army, for if they were driven from it their whole line would be severed. Against this point the Federals threw themselves. A severe battle followed, which continued all day and far 133 1.S4 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. into the night. In this struggle the greater part of both armies engaged. Both were repeatedly driven from their position, but at the end of the struggle they occupied much the same ground that they did at the outset. The Federal losses were very near 10,000 in killed and wounded. The Confederate loss was much less. The blow which had thus been struck, while it was indeed a iieavy one, was not crushing. During the week which followed. Grant endeavored to find some weak point in the line of the enemy, but in vain. On the morning of the 22d Lee was not a little sur- prised to see no trace of the great army which for days he had been fighting. He was not long in deciding whither it had gone. He knew that they were already sweeping on toward Richmond. He therefore at once broke up his camps and hastened to throw himself across its line of advance. After two days of marching. Grant reached the North Anna, but Lee was there before him. Grant immediately sent the commands of Hancock and Warren across the river, at points four miles apart. Between these two divisions Lee thrust his troops, thus preventing them from co-operating. Seeing this movement. Grant withdrew his troops. The last of May beheld the Union forces on the banks oi' tiie Chickaliominy, not far from the place where the battle of Cold Harbor had been fought two years before. Lee was there before him, and had strongly intrenched himself Grant now determined to make an attack upon tlie Confederates. Preliminary operations were com- menced on the last day of May, but the real battle did not commence until the 3d of June. The first blow was struck by F. C. Barlow's division of Hancock's troops. I'or a (piarter of an hour they fought, and then were iorced to fall back, leaving half their number behind THE CIVIL WAR. 135 them. Gibbon's division and Smith's division of the Army of the James met with no better success. The battle continued for nearly an hour, and then the attack was abandoned. The loss of the Union forces was more than double that of the Confederates. The battle led to one important decision — that the campaign must take the form of a siege of Richmond. Two courses were now open to Grant : he might invest the city from the north, or, crossing the Chickahominy and the James, might besiege it from the south. He adopted the latter plan. It was not really put into effect until the 12th of June, at which time Warren's corps crossed the Chickahominy by the Long Bridge, thus masking the movements of the other corps, which marched by longer routes. Smith's division proceeded to the Pamunkey, and from thence sailed down the York and up the James, uniting with Butler at Bermuda Hundreds on the 14th. Lee, supposing ihat it was Grant's purpose to advance upon Richmond by the north bank of the James, crossed the Chickahominy and fell back to the strong intrenchments in front of Richmond. Lee's entire force numbered about 70,000 men, while Grant's troops numbered 150,000. On the evening of the loth the Union forces came in sight of the James, A pontoon bridge had been laid partly across the river^ by which and with the aid of boats the army crossed over. Three days were occupied by the troops in cross- ing. When this had been accomplished the army was then in a position from which Grant proposed to proceed against Richmond, although it took the form of the siege of Petersburg, which lay some eighteen miles distant on the opposite side of the James river. The regular siege of Petersburg began in July, 1864. General Grant had caused strong works to be built in the 9 136 LIFE OF GENERAL GEANT. front of those of the enemy. On the 25th of June a series of mining operations were begun under the Con- federate forts for the purpose of blowing them up. Lieu- tenant-Colonel Pleasants was placed in charge of one of these, and it was completed on the 22d of July. When everything had been made ready Grant despatched Han- cock to assist Foster in flanking the enemy at Deep Bottom, and, pushing on to Chapin's Bluff, to threaten Lee's line of communication across the river. This was done. Lee, beholding that the danger which threatened Richmond had greatly increased, withdrew five of his eight remaining divisions to the south side of the James. This act presented Grant with a grand opportunity for making an as- sault. The first mine was ex- ploded early on the morning of July 30th, with terrible effect. Where the fort had formed}^ stood there was a crater of loose earth, 200 feet in length, full 50 feet in width, and from 20 to 30 feet in depth. The fort, together with its guns and other munitions of war and a garrison of 300, were thrown into the air and destroyed. This was followed by a heavy cannonading on the part of the UiHon forces all along the line. Owing to some misun- derstanding on the part of those to whom this work had been intrusted, the result looked for was not accom- ])hshed. The loss to the Union forces was indeed great. One day, while Grant was encamped before Petersburg, llio hostler observed a gaunt, spare-looking man, dressed HH a civilian, approaching the rear of Grant's quarters. This functionary, tliinking it to be some intermeddler, called I,) Inm in a rather unceremonious way: THE CIVIL WAR. 137 *'Hey, there!" " Well ? " was the rejoinder. " Keep out of there ! " " Isn't this General Grant's tent?" " Yes." '^ Then I guess he'll see me." And he coolly walked on while the hostler remarked under his breath some- thing about " them Sanitary chaps being a confounded nuisance." Although General Grant had ever treated the repre- sentatives of the Sanitary and Christian Commissions in &. proper manner, yet there were those who did not regard them with favor. Approaching the guard before the I tent, the visitor was greeted with : ! "No Sanitary folks allowed to go in there." " I o;uess General Grant will see me." " No, he won't." " I mean to try." " Well, I tell you he won't," growled the guard. " But ^ if you want me to take in your name, I'll do it, I suppose." " Very well ; you may do so." "What's the name, then?" " Abraham Lincoln !" Had the whole Confederate army appeared that guard ■could not have been more astonished than at the an- nouncement of that name. As he stepped aside and gave the military salute to the President as he passed, he said : " Yes, I reckon he'll see you.'' A fortnight subsequent to the firing of the first mine Grant sent an expedition, composed of the divisions of Birney and Hancock, with cavalry under Gregg, to the north side of the James, to a point known as Deep Bot- tom. Here sharp engagements followed on the 13th, 138 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. 16th and 18th of August. By this movement the Union forces lost 5,000 men, without gaining any special advan- tage excepting the incidental one of giving assistance to troops sent to seize the Weldon Railway, south of Peters- burg. This was accomplished by General Warren on the 18th. Three days later he succeeded in repulsing a force of the enemy which attempted to recapture that portion of the road which they had lost. On the same day (August 21st), General Hancock, having returned from the north side of the James, struck the Weldon road near Ream's station, and destroyed the track for some distance. A short time after this the Union forces were driven from the road, suffering considerable loss. For more than a month following this both armies remained comparatively quiet. The Union forces were then moved simultaneously toward Petersburg and Richmond. Some time previous to this. General McPherson, who had been attached to General Sherman's army, was killed near Atlanta, Georgia. The following correspond- ence, which grew out of his death, will serve to give the reader an idea of the sympathetic feeling which shone ever in the life of General Grant : " Clyde, Ohio, Aiujust M, 1864. " To General Gh-ant : " Dear Sir : I hope you will pardon me for troubling you with the perusal of these few lines from the trembling hand of the aged grandma of our beloved General James B. McPherson, who fell in battle. When it was announced at his funeral, from the public print, that when General Grant heard of his death, he went into his tent and wept like a child, my heart went out in thanks to you for the interest you manifested in him while he was with you. I have watched his progress from infancy up. In child- hood he was obedient and kind; in manhood, interesting, noble and persevering, looking to the wants of others. Since he entered the war others can appreciate his worth more than I can. When THE CIVIL WAR. 1S9 it was announced to lis by telegraph that our loved one had fallen, our hearts were almost rent asunder; but when we heard the Commander-in-Chief could weep with us, too, we felt, sir, that you have been a father to him, and this whole nation is mourning his early death. I wish to inform you that his remains were con- ducted by a kind guard to the very parlor where he spent a cheer- ful evening in 1861 with his widowed mother, two brothers, an only sister and his aged grandmother, who is now tr3nng to write. In the morning he took leave at six o'clock, little dreaming he should fall by a ball from the enem}^ His funeral services were attended in his mother's orchard, where his youthful feet had often pressed the soil to gather the falling fruit; and his remains are resting in the silent grave scarce half a mile from the place of his birth. His grave is on an eminence but a few rods from where the funeral services were attended and near the grave of his father. " The grave, no doubt, will be marked, so that passers-by will often stop and drop a tear over the dear departed. And now, dear friend, a few lines from you would be gratefully received by the afflicted friends. I pray that the God of battles may be with you and go forth with your arms till rebellion shall cease, the Union be restored and the old flag wave over our entire land. "With much respect, I remain your friend, " Lydia S locum, "Aged eighty-seven years and four months." To this communication General Grant replied as fol- lows : f " Head-quarters Armies of the U. S., 1 " City Point, Va., Aicgust lOth, 1864. "Mrs. Lydia Slocum : " My Dear Madam : Your very welcome letter of the 3d instant has reached me. I am glad to know that the relatives of the lamented Major-General McPherson are aware of the more than friendship existing between him and myself. A nation grieves at the loss of one so dear to our nation's cause. It is a selfish grief, because the nation had more to expect from him than from almost any one living. I join in this selfish grief, and add the grief of personal love for the departed. He formed, for some time, one of my military family. I knew him well ; to know him was to love. It may be some consolation to you, his aged grandmother, to know 140 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. that every ofl&cer and every soldier who served under your grand- son felt the highest reverence for his patriotism, his zeal, his great, almost unequalled ability, his amiability and all the manly virtues that can adorn a commander. Your bereavement is great, but cannot exceed mine. " Yours truly, " U. S. Grant." On the 29th of September, General Butler, at the head of the corps commanded by Birney and Ord, moved upon and captured Fort Harrison. The troops also charged upon another fort near by, but were repulsed with heavy loss. In this attack General Burnham was killed and Ord was severely wounded. In honor of General Burn- ham, the captured works were named Fort Burnham. In these assaults the bravery of the colored troops was con- spicuous. In the meantime Meade had sent Generals Warren and Parker, with two divisions of troops each, to attempt the extension of the Union left to the Weldon road and beyond. It was a feint intended to aid Butler's movement on the north side of the James, but resulted in severe fighting on the 1st and 2d of October, with varying fortunes for both armies. This effort was fol- lowed by another pause, although not what might be termed a settled rest, for the period of nearly two months. In the meantime Sheridan had performed that wonderful feat known as '• the ride to Winchester," and Sherman was engaged in his " march to the sea." Both these ef- forts served to weaken the strength of the enemy in their respective fields and the army as a whole. On the 27th of October the Union forces assailed Lee's works on Hatcher's Run, which lay to the west of the Weldon road. The battle was a severe one, and the Union army was re- pulsed, and two days later withdrew to their intrench- nicnts before Petersburg. Very little was done by the Army of the Potomac until the opening of the spring THE CIVIL WAR. 141 campaign in 1865. While these events were transpiring General Grant received the following communication from the President : " Lieutenant-General Grant : Not expecting to see you be- fore the spring campaign opens, I wish to express, in this way, my entire satisfaction with what you have done up to this time, so far as I understand it. The particulars of your plans I neither know nor seek to know. You are vigilant and self-reliant, and, pleased with this, I Avish not to obtrude any restraints or con- straints upon you. While I am very anxious that any great dis- aster or capture of our men in great numbers shall be avoided, I know that these points arc less likely to escape your attention than they would be mine. If there be anything which is within my power to give, do not fail to let me know it. And now, with a brave army and a just cause, may God sustain you. "Yours very truly, "A. Lincoln." The following was Grant's reply : " The President : Your very kind letter of yesterday is just re- ceived. The confidence you express for the future, and satisfaction for the past, in my military administration is acknowledged with pride. It shall be my earnest endeavor that you and the country shall notbe disappointed. From my first entrance into the volunteer service of the country to the present day I have never had cause of complaint, have never expressed or implied a complaint against the Administration or the Secretary of War for throwing any em- barrassment in the way of my vigorously prosecuting what ap- l^eared to be my duty. Indeed, since the promotion which placed me in command of all the armies, and in view of the great re- sponsibility and importance of success, I have been astonished at the readiness with which everything asked for has been yielded, without even an explanation being asked. "Should my success be less than I desire and expect, the least I can say is, the fault is not with you. " Very truly, your obedient servant, "U. S. Grant, Lieutenant- GeneraV During the winter of 1864-65 Grant paid a visit to 142 LIFE OF GENERAL GEAXT. Washington during the session of Congress and received a most flattering reception from both the House and the Senate. A visit was also paid to New York, where he was received with great enthusiasm. Calling on General Scott, the old hero presented Grant with a copy of his autobiography, on the fly-leaf of which was written: ''From the oldest to the ahlest (jeneral in the world, " WiNFiELD Scott." Philadelphia was also visited. Although the visit was a brief one, still it was one of marked interest. Throughout the time in which he was connected with the army, and particu- larly during the time in whicli he held the position of L i e u t o n a n t-Ge n e r a 1, General Grant was deeply interested in every move- ment which was designed GKXKUAL WINFIELD SCOTT. to aid and relieve the sol- diers. One of the most powerful organizations for this pur- pose was the Cliristian Commission. It performed a grand work, and General Grant gave its officers and representa- tives from time to time such assistance as lay in his power. Sucli service was greatly appreciated by those who were the leaders of the movement, and it became an almost universal desire upon the part of Christian workers con- nected with the work to show their appreciation of such service in some substantial way. To George H. Stuart, of Philadelphia, is to be given the honor of conceiving the idea of purchasing a home for the General and his family. THE CIVIL WAK. 143 "It is really too bead," said Mr. Stuart upon one occa- sion, "that one who has served his country so faithfully should not possess some substantial gift from the people." The proposition advanced met with ready supporters, and a committee was soon appointed for tlie purpose of collecting funds for this purpose. The committee was composed of the following gentlemen, residents of Phila- delphia : A. E. Borie, of McKean, Borie & Co. ; William C. Kent, of James, Kent, Santee & Co. ; Davis Pierson ; Edward C. Knight, of E. C. Knight & Co. ; George Whit- ney, of Asa Whitney & Sons; and James Graham, of James Graham & Co. It was a much easier task to raise the money than to find a suitable building. At length that at 2009 Chest- nut street was selected. It was a four-storied, thirteen- roomed building, substantially built of brick, with brown- stone dressings, with balcony beneath the windows of the first floor. The building cost $32,000. The entire cost, including furniture, etc., was $53,000. The purchase having been made, a letter informing General Grant was at once sent him. To this the General returned the fol- lowing reply : f Head-quarters Armies of the U. S. 1 City Point, Va., Jan. Ath, 1865. Messrs. Geo. H. Stuart, A. E. Borie, William 0. Kent, E. 0. Knight, Davis Pierson, George }Vhitney and James Graham, Committee : Gentlemen : Through you the loyal citizens of Philadelphia have seen fit to present me with a house, lot and furniture in your beautiful city. The letter notifying me of this is just received. It is with feelings of gratitude and pride that I accept this sub- stantial testimonial of the esteem of your loyal citizens. Grati- tude, because it is evidence of a deep-set determination on the part of a large number of citizens that this war shall go on until the Union is restored. Pride, that my humble efforts in so great •a cause should attract such a token from a city of strangers to me. I will not predict the day when we will be at peace again, with 144 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the Union restored. But that that day will come is as sure as the rising of to-morrow's sun, I have never doubted this in the darkest days of this dark and terrible rebellion. Until this happy day of peace does come my family will occupy and enjoy your magnificent present. But until that I do not ex- pect nor desire to see much of the enjoyments of a home fireside. I have the honor to be, with great respect, Your obedient servant, U. S. Grant, Lieutenant- General U. S. A. As soon as opportunity offered, therefore, Grant, ac- companied by his family, proceeded to Philadelphia to take possession of their new home. They were met by Messrs. Stuart and Borie, and at once driven to 2009 Chestnut street. Here everything had been provided to give them a hearty welcome. An elaborately carved box containing the deed of the place was presented by Mr. Stuart with these words : " General Grant, as you are a man of deeds and not of words, I have great pleasure as chairman of a committee on behalf of the loyal citizens of Philadelphia to present you with this deed, which conveys to you the right, title to this property and all it contains. I hope that you may live long to enjoy it and that the blessings of God may rest upon you and your family through life." When the General rose to reply he was too much af- fected to give utterance to his feelings. Said Mr. Stuart : " I never saw him cry but that once. His eyes were suf- fused with tears. All that I can remember of what he said after he had sufficiently mastered his emotion is : ' Gentlemen, I am unable to give expression to my feelings for this most unexpected and undeserved gift of your citizens.' " Alter this luncheon was served in the dining-hall. For three weeks General Grant made his home here until called elsewhere by important duties. CHAPTER IX. PREPARING FOR A FINAL MOVEMENT LEE ATTACKS GRANT JEFF DAVIS RECEIVES A DISPATCH " RICHMOND MUST BE EVACUATED TO-NIGHT " AN EXCITING SCENE RICH- MOND OCCUPIED BY UNION TROOPS — LINCOLN VISITS RICH- MOND "glory! glory!" grant pursues LEE SHER- IDAN INTERCEPTS LEE THE LATTER FLEES GRANT PURSUES — HIS LETTER TO LEE LEE's REPLY DARING CUSTER APPOMATTOX — LEE's SURRENDER WHAT GEN- ERAL MAHONE said of the SURRENDER LEE's LAST ORDER A UNION SOLDIER's DESCRIPTION OF THE CLOSING SCENE OF THE WAR. On the 24th of March General Grant prepared for a grand final movement, and a general attack was ar- ranged for the 29th. On the 25th, General Lee made an attack upon Fort Steadman, hoping to capture it, and afterward to cut Grant's line of supplies, or if he failed in the latter attempt, to escape from Petersburg and unite his army with that of Johnston. It was cer- tainly a bold move to make, and one which Lee never would have entertained had he not been driven to do so by sheer desperation. At daylight the attack was made. The Union forces were taken by surprise, and hence were unprepared to resist the onset. Several batteries were captured, and for a time the enemy were victorious. But the " Boys in Blue" soon rallied and were on the enemy's flank, and not only recaptured their guns, but succeeded in taking some nineteen hundred prisoners. This was (145) 146 LIFE OF GENERAL GEAXT. promptly followed up by an assault upon the works of the enemy, which were carried, and successfully held, not- withstanding the effort made to recover the lost ground. After having partaken of his breakfast at City Point, on the 29th of March, Grant, accompanied by his staff, set out for the front, which was some eighteen miles dis- tant. The party reached Dinwiddle Court House at about five in the afternoon. The expected supplies not having arrived on account of the wagons having become stuck in the mud, the soldiers v/ent supperless to sleep upon the ground, wiiile the General and his staff found repose on the floor of the tavern, which, for the time being, was used for his head-quarters. Throughout the following day the rain fell in torrents, rendering an advance impossible. Sheridan, however, a little distance away, led his lines to Five Forks, which point he held the next day. Warren advanced to co-operate with him, but was driven back by a heavy infantry force against which it was impossible to stand. A severe cavalry attack was made at the same time upon Sheridan, and he too was forced to fall back. On the following morning Sheridan advanced from Din- widdie and made an attack upon the Confederate line of infantry. There was a large force in front of him, and at one time it seemed as if he must be defeated. But at that moment Sheridan spurred to the front, and inspiring a fresh courage, led the wavering troops again forward. For a time the enemy fought like madmen, and then the nerve which hitherto had sustained them disappeared. In the midst of their exertions they suddenly realized that they were surrounded. More than five thousand of them threw down their arms, and thus a signal victory was gained for the Union forces. Oil tlie following Sunday, as Jefferson Davis sat in chiu-cli, the I'ollowiug dispatch was handed him : i ~^~7^ ^^T'^w- tji—- (147 14S LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. " The enemy has broken my line in three places. Rich- mond must he evacuated to-night^ As he read the words his cheek blanched. Nothing could have surprised him more than this. He at once left the church, and began to take measures for his per- gonal safety. At eight o'clock that night he was seen boarding the cars, taking his horse and carriage in case an emergency should arise, and was soon whirling away from Richmond, Although none of the people knew the purport of the intelligence which Davis had received at the time of his leaving the church, it was not long before it began to be whispered abroad. Every moment tlie excitement in- creased until the streets of the city were literally packed with a frightened populace, and the Sabbath, which opened so quietly, closed in the wildest excitement and terror. Says one, speaking of the scene : " Army wagons, loaded with boxes and trunks, drove furiously toward the Danville depot ; pale women and ragged children streamed after, going they knew not whither; excited men filled the air with blasphemies, while the more desperate surged up around the commissary depots, awaiting the signal for pillage. There was no order — no attempt on the part of any one to enforce it." The Virginia legislature took passage on a canal-boat for Lynchburg. Workmen took the advantage of the excitement and demanded fabulous prices for services ren- dered. As high as one hundred dollars in gold an hour were demanded. All through the night the work of destruction was carried on in Richmond. Government ]ir()i)erty was destroyed, shipping burned, iron-clads and fortifications blown up, and finally the torch was applied to the city itself The fire was raging furiously, when, at eight o'clock on THE CIVIL WAR. 149 the following day, General Weitzel entered the city with some forty Union cavalrymen. No opposition being made, he at once proceeded to take possession of the city. The Palmetto flag of the Confederacy, which had floated from the dome of the capitol, was hauled down, and in its place there floated the grand old flag of the Republic. The infantry was not far behind, and marching to the State House, stacked their arms, ran out the fire-engines, and endeavored to extinguish the flames. General Weit- zel at once telegraphed Secretary Stanton as follows : " We took Richmond at 8.15 this morning. I captured many guns. Tiie enemy left in great haste. The city is on fire in one place ; am making every efibrt to put it out. General Grant started early this morning with the army towards the Danville road, to cut off Lee's retreating army if possible. President Lincoln has gone to the front." When President Lincoln heard of the fall of Richmond he was at City Point, and at once started for that city, wdiere he arrived on the morning following its occupa- tion. He entered the city with his son, Commodore Por- ter, and a few sailors who rowed him to the wharf. They all started on foot, the President as well as the others. There were but few who knew him, but soon his presence became widely known, and as he passed along the streets the negroes, old and young, gathered around him, some shouting and laughing, and giving expression to their delight in many ways. Exclamations like the following came from that joyous people : " Glory to God ! glory to God ! glory, glory ! " "I thank you, dear Jesus, dat I be- hold President Linkum." " Bress de Lor'! Bress de Lor' ! " " May de good Lor' bress you, President Linkum! " Mr. Lincoln raised his hat in silence, and, as if much affected, passed on. He returned to Washington that afternoon, but in a few days went back to Richmond, ac- mo LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. I companied by his wife, several Senators and other friends. The Confederate forces were now fleeing. Grant took one brief stroll through Petersburg, and then pushed on after the retreating Lee. It was Lee's purpose to reach Dauvil To pre fantrv le, and ihnn thence join Johnston, near Raleigh vent this. Grant dispatched Sheridan with both in- and cavah-y. Leaving the former to follow, Slier THE CIVIL WAK. 161 idan dashed on with his brave horsemen. At five o'clock on Tuesday, April 4th, Sheridan had reached Jetersville, and Lee was at Amelia Court House. When Sheridan learned this fact he knew that the plan he had been fol- lowing had succeeded — that Lee had been intercepted. When he discovered this fact, he at once set his troops to work throwing up intrenchments, and also despatched a messenger to the head-quarters for assistance. This was given him promptly, and at two o'clock the men who had gone to bed tired and supperless were roused and ordered to march at once. Sheridan was awake with the day, expecting to be thus early attacked. But no attack was made, and Sheridan began to fear lest Lee was seeking to escape in a northerly direction. He therefore sent out a detachment for reconnoissance, under Davis, to prevent such a movement should it be made. In carrying out this order Davis fell upon a Confederate train, destroyed nearly two hundred wagons and took a thousand prisoners, although such a result was only secured by hard fighting. Sheridan at once informed Grant of the result. When the soldiers heard the order read cheer after cheer arose from the regiments. The brave fellows seized their muskets and prepared to march at once. At eleven o'clock that night Grant entered Sheridan's head-quarters. Although Sheridan had retired, he at once arose, and, while supper was being prepared, explained to Grant the exact position of the enemy. Early on the following morning the troops were on the move. It was found that Lee was pushing northward, seeking to escape the threatened attack. To prevent this General Ord had advanced to Farmville, from which place he had sent out a cavalry force to burn the bridges. Encountering the head of Lee's army, they received a severe blow. Reinforcements coming up, the enemy were 10 152 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. repulsed. Sheridan pressed hard after Lee, and came upon him near Sailor's creek, and, by making a sudden charge, succeeded in capturing sixteen guns and some four hundred wagons. Later, when a more general attack was made, he succeeded in taking six or seven thousand prisoners, including a large number of general officers. Early the next day Sheridan pushed on after the still fleeing army. The Confederate troops were now all on the north side of the Appomattox. In despair of ever getting through the enhxrgement of Union forces, which appeared on every hand, they at once went into camp, and proceeded to intrench themselves about five miles north of Farniville. On the same day Grant sent Lee the following letter by General Seth Williams, under flag of truce : April 1th, 1865. General R. E. Lee, Commanding Confederate States Armies: General : The result of the last week must convince you of the hopelessness of further resistance on the part of the Army of Northern Virginia in this struggle. I feel that it is so, and regard it as my duty to shift from myself the responsibility of any further effusion of blood, by asking of you the surrender of that portion of the Confederate States Army known as the Army of Northern Virginia. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, U. S. Grant, Lieutenant-Gaieral, Commanding Armies of the United States. Just before daylight on the following day General Wil- liams returned with the followinc; reply : April 7th, 1865. Td biEUTENANT-GENEKAL U. S. Grant, Commanding Armies of the United States : Genej{al: I have received your note of this date. Though not entirely of the opinion you express of the hopelessness of further resistance on the part of the Amry of Northern Virginia, I recipro- cate your desire to avoid useless effusion of blood, and therefore, before considering your proposition, ask the terms you offer, on coiidiiioii of ii.s surrender. R. E. Lee, General. THE CIVIL WAR. 158 To this General Grant at once replied as follows: April 8th, 1865. To General R. E. Lee, Commanding Confederate States Army: General : Your note of last evening, in reply to mine of same date, asking the conditions on which I will accept the surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia, is just received. In reply, I would say, that peace being my first desire, there is but one con- dition that I insist upon, viz. : That the men surrendered shall be disqualified for taking up arms against the Government of the United States until properly exchanged. I will meet you, or designate officers to meet any officers you may name, for the purpose of arranging definitely the terms upon which the surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia will be received. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, U. S. Grant, Lieutenant- General, Commanding A^^mies of the United States. In the meantime Grant did not consider anything as settled, and was still pushing hard after the fleeing foe. Sheridan, who was stationed at Prospect Station, learned that several trains of supplies had reached Appomattox Station, which was some twenty-five miles away, and were there awaiting the arrival of Lee. Custer was at once despatched to capture the trains, and he soon had the entire group surrounded and captured. The trains were then sent duly guarded to Farmville. This done, an attack was made upon a battery which had been estab- lished in the woods near by, and this, being unable to resist the furious onset made by Custer's brave troops, soon passed into the hands of the victorious forces. By this movement twenty-five guns and over a thousand prisoners were captured. Those who succeeded in making their escape rushed in the direction of Appomattox Court House. On the evening of the 8th General Grant re- ceived the following communication from General Lee : 1,54 LIFE OP GENERAL GRANT. Ajiril Sth, 1865. To Lieutenant-General Grant, Commanding Armies of the United States. General: I received, at a late hour, your note of to-day. In mine of yesterday I did not intend to propose the surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia, but to ask the terms of your proposi- tion. To be frank, I do not think the emergenc}^ has risen to call for the surrender of this army ; but as the restoration of peace should be the sole object of all, I desired to know whether your proposals would lead to that end. I cannot, therefore, meet you with a view to surrender the Army of Northern Virginia ; but as far as your proposal may affect the Confederate States forces under my connnand, and tend to the restoration of peace, I should be pleased to meet you at 10 a. m. to-morrow on the old stage road to Richmond, between the picket lines of the two armies. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, R. E. Lee, General, Commanding Confederate States Armies. To this Grant at once made answer : April 9th, 1865. General R. E. Lee, Commanding, etc. : General : Your note of yesterday is received. As I have nO' authority to treat on the subject of peace, the meeting proposed for 10 A. M. to-day could lead to no good. I will state, however, General, that I am equally anxious for peace with yourself, and the whole North entertains the same feeling. The terms upon Avhich peace can be had are well understood. By the South lay- ing down their arms they will hasten that most desirable event^ save thousands of human lives and hundreds of milHons of proi)erty not yet destroyed. Sincerely hoping that all our difh- culties may be settled without the loss of another life, I subscribe myself, etc., U. S. Grant, Lieutenant- General, U. S. A. The end of a long and bloody conflict was now rapidly approaching. General Mahone, who was a prominent actor m the closing scenes of the Rebellion, gives the following account of the last struggles of a dying Confederacy : " Our next move was to cross the Appomattox. I took THE SUKllEXDEll OF GENERAL LEE- 155 156 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. my command to High Bridge, three miles from Farmville^ where there were two bridges, one the high railroad bridge and another an improvised wagon bridge. I met Gen- erals Gordon and Anderson near High Bridge, after mov- ing my men over, and had a talk with them. They believed that the defeat at Sailor's creek had settled the fate of the Confederacy. I agreed with them that our army was ruined. I told them that I thought the officer next in command to General Lee should see him quickly, and inform him that it was the judgment of his officers that we were beaten. It was agreed that General Ander- son should go immediately to General Longstreet and have him tell Lee our views. About two o'clock on the morning of the 7th I left the conference and went over the river to look after my division. All that was known of Lee's movements was that he would cross over to Farmville and unite with us not far from that place, and we would continue the retreat toward Lynchburg. I made a reconnoissance of the roads in the dark and re- turned to High Bridge about daylight. The enemy's skirmish lines w^ere advancing toward the bridge, which, contrary to orders, had been burned. •■A brigade was sent out to check the advance of the Federal skirmishers. I had found a road leading to Cumberland Church, ^vhich joined the main road over which Lee was expected to approach. I formed my divis- ion in line of battle and received an order from General Lee to hold the enemy back. General Miles commanded the advance of the Union forces, and he attacked me and we repulsed him ; but this temporary victory closed our short line of battle, and he manoeuvred with his superior force to turn our flank. I ran out a battery of artillery on the flank I saw he was endeavoring to turn, and in a sliort time he had captured our guns. Just then, fortu- THE CIVIL WAR. 157 nately, the advance of Lee's forces came up, and a North Carolina division, containing about a full regiment of men, charged the Federals and recaptured the guns. " Lee and Longstreet soon came up in force. During the afternoon General Miles marched a brigade around our flank and got in my rear. While he was executing that movement I marched two brigades in the rear of Miles' men and attacked them savagely. We nearly an- nihilated the brigade, killing over 700 men in the action. In the meantime Anderson had communicated with Long- street, and, while I knew nothing of what had taken place, it was evident from the action of Longstreet and Lee that the former had broached the subject of sur- render, and that the latter would not entertain the prop- osition. " That night, while I was preparing to cover the retreat of our army, about ten o'clock, I saw a ball of fire sus- pended over the head-quarters of the Union forces, which meant a flag of truce. I obtained j)ermission to receive the flag, and sent a detachment with my provost marshal to meet the truce party. When the provost returned I was resting myself in a negro cabin in the church. " * I have a letter for General Lee,' he said. " ' Yes, and I know what that means,' was my answer. " ' It is a demand for the surrender of the Confederate army.' " I subsequently learned from General Grant himself that this letter, demanding the surrender, was written on the hotel porch in Farmville. " We marched all night and the next day until about four o'clock in the afternoon, when we went into camp three miles south of ApjDomattox Court House. Long- street and Gordon were in front, and my division and General Fields' division were drawn in line of battle to 158 LIFE OF GENERAL GRAXT. cover the rear. At daylight we moved to Appomattox and then halted. I received a message from Lee to come to the front. I found him just this side of the court house, with Longstreet and his staff, warming themselves by a fire. Lee asked his staff to retire, and then he said that he had sent for me because he was in trouble. " ' Well, what is the matter now ? ' I asked. " ' I suppose you know that Grant has demanded our surrender,' he replied. " ' No, I do not know it, but I suspected it,' was my answer. " ' Well, he has demanded our surrender, and I want to know what you think about it. We have only 8,000 muskets and two organized bodies — yours and Fields'.' " ' I take your purpose, General Lee, to be to effect a junction with Johnston in West North Carolina?' " ' Yes, sir,' said the general. "'Li my judgment,' said I, 'this junction can be formed only in one of two ways — first to cut through the enemy's lines and fight our way out, and that can only be done at a great cost of life. If successful we will only have a mere remnant of the army left, and that remnant cannot be recruited and equipped by a government in a wagon. I cannot see how you could supply an army with munitions and rations. We have another chance to get to Lynchburg, but we will certainly be harassed every step of the way, and when we get there we will be still farther away from Johnston.' I told him that the time had come when I thought he was called upon to perform the highest duty that could devolve upon an individual, to iiii-lergo a test of the highest degree of manhood; that the tmu' had come when, in my judgment, it was his duty to siiiTciider the army; that I believed it would be a crime under the circumstances to sacrifice the life of another man. THE CIVIL WAR. 159 I told him that if the terms offered by General Grant were such as we were entitled to receive I should surren- der immediately. If not I would fight it out here. He then handed me General Grant's letter containing the proposed terms of surrender. 1 read it and told him that I thought the terms were as honorable as could be asked by a defeated army. Lee turned questioningly to Longstreet, who simply said : ' I agree with Mahone.' "^ What will the country say?' asked Lee. " ' You are the country now,' I answered. ' Our people will approve.' He said he did not know where to find Grant. I told him to get on his horse and hunt him up. He left Longstreet in command of the army and rode away in search of the Federal commander, accompanied only by a courier. I went back to my division, which Fields had put in line of battle, and told him what had occurred at the front. " To avoid another engagement we sent out a flag of truce. When the men formed in line they began digging trenches and otherwise arranging for what they supposed to be an impending battle. They were ordered to stop work. It was the first order of the kind they had ever received under such circumstances. The soldiers seemed to understand what it meant without knowing anything of the events of the past twenty-four hours. As by instinct they realized that the war had come to an end. Some of the men began to cry, others threw their arms in joy around the necks of their comrades. Many of them broke their sword blades and threw away their bayonets. I hastened out of sight of this affecting scene ■and rejoined General Lee at a little stream near Appo- mattox Court House. Colonels Taylor and Stevens and several other officers were with him. I had scarcely reached the general's side when I saw a Union officer 160 LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. riding down the road from the court house, accompanied by a courier. He approached within a hundred feet of General Lee, at the same time saluting him, removing his hat, and took a note from his pocket, which General Tay- lor received and carried to General Lee. He read the note and answered it, and the Union officer rode back to the Federal head-quarters. General Lee stood in the dirt road. He took the note, tore it up in little pieces and threw them upon the ground and with his heel stamped them under the dirt and out of sight. I mounted my horse and rode away, and General Lee went to meet General Grant. That is all I saw of the surrender." The answer to the communication which Lee received was as follows : I Head-quarters Army of Northern Va. 1 April 9th, 1865. Lieut- General U.S. Grant, Commanding U. S. Armies: General : I have received your letter of this date, containing the terms of surrender of the Army of Northern Virginia, as pro- posed by you ; as they are substantially the same as those ex- pressed m your letter of the 8th instant, they are accepted. I will proceed to designate the proper officers to carry the stipula- tions into effect. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, R. E. L., General. At two o'clock on Sunday, April 9th, the two com* manders met in a house owned by one McLean, and there discussed the terms upon which the proposed surrender was to be made. At half-past three the articles of cap- itulation were signed and Lee's army received as prisoners of war. Lee's last order to his faithful soldiers was as follows : I Head-quarters Army Northern Virginia. ( April 10th, 1865. General Order No. 9 After four years of arduous service, marked by unsurpassed THE CIVIL WAR. 161 courage and fortitude, tlio Army of Northern Virginia has been compelled to yield to overwhelming numbers and resources. I need not tell the brave survivors of so many hard-fought battles, who have remained steadfast to the last, that I have consented to the result from no distrust of them. But, feeling that valor and devotion could accomplish nothing that would compensate for the loss that must have attended the continuance of the contest, I de- termined to avoid the useless sacrifice of those whose past services have endeared them to their countrymen. By the terms of the agreement, officers and men can return to their home and remain until they are exchanged. You will take with you the satisfaction that proceeds from the consciousness of duty faithfully performed, and I earnestly pray that a merciful God will extend to you this mercy and protection. With an increasing admiration of your constancy and devotion to your country, and a grateful remembrance of your kind and generous considerations for myself, I bid you all an affectionate farewell. R. E. Lee, General. One of the " Boys in Blue " thus describes the closing scenes of the war as he saw it : " General Custer is now the most conspicuous man on the field. He rides out from the charging column, ob- served by all. He meets a Confederate. A white flag is triumphantly waved in his right hand as he dashes back to his command; the halt is sounded and a wild shout of joy went out from the throats of thousands of brave men that filled the air for many minutes. Huzzah after huz- zah, cheer after cheer rolled back to and was quickly caught up by the thirty thousand infantry — Fifth, Twenty- fourth and one division of the Twenty-fifth Army Corps, who justly shared the honors of the hour, as they doubt- less did the delight of all, which was simply boundless and indescribable. It was the surrender of Lee and the end of the war. " The culmination of hopes long deferred through years of defeats and drawn battles burst upon grim-visaged vet- 162 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. erans, whose hearts throbbed with a joy that honorable pride, the absence of further peril, a speedy return to homes, waiting loved ones, and the triumphant unity of our country alone could give. The crisis of the stupen- dous reality reached and passed, the reaction was sudden and profoundly emotional. The scenes and incidents re- sulting from the suspension of hostilities between lines of hostile troops, while waiting several hours for the arrange- ment of terms and details between Grant and Lee, were of the most memorable character. None seemed more deeply affected than the trained officers and old veterans of the regular army. We recall with distinctness the emo- tions and tearful jo\' of General Alfred Gibbs, then in command of the Reguhir Brigade First, Second, Fifth and Sixth United States Cavalry. The noble man was wholly broken up, choked with every word and finally wept like a child. The conduct of this officer was by no means ex- ceptional ; the eyes of tiie best and bravest moistened, and the strongest and stoniest hearts were moved by generous impulses that went out to and sought opportunities to fraternize with the rank and file of the equally brave men, whose cause — a cause for which they had made such frightful sacrifices — had gone out forever in smoke and flame now ended. "The visible dividing line between ecstatic joy and nameless grief separated the blue and gray for the hours we waited in arms the announcement of the surrender, and when this was accomplished both armies went into camp side by side. The line was crossed ; intercourse between all was free and cordial. Food was given to the hungry, drink to the thirsty and comfort to those oppressed with the natural chagrin felt by the surrendered men and officers, one of whom said to the writer and others, *You can return to your Northern homes of peace in THE CIVIL WAR 165 honor beneath the flag you fought under. We now have no Confederate flag; it is lost; our pride is grievously wounded and our homes are full of sorrow,' and, over- come with suppressed emotions that seemed, as he thought, to unman him for the moment, he turned away from us to recover his self-possession. "The terms of surrender, the 'only terms' other than that of ' unconditional ' surrender, then made by Grant were of the most considerate and honorable character. No formal surrender of the sword of Lee was exacted, no parade of captives through the open ranks of victorious troops ; the retention of side arms by officers, with the horses of the whole command and all material that could be converted to the utilities of peaceful pursuits were con- ceded them. The arms and munitions of war only were required to be turned in ; and with simple paroles of honor all were hastened to their homes, with thousands of merry • Good-byes to you, Johnnies,' and as many re- turns of ' God bless you, Yanks ! ' " We turned homeward on the 11th. The command was well on the road in the morning, with Burksville Junction as our objective point, when Grant and Lee, riding side by side, the former accompanied by a few members of his staff", passed our head-quarters at a brisk trot. Both were in uniform ; neither wore swords. Both were superbly mounted on bay horses. In appearance and elegance of figure and horsemanship Lee had the ad- vantage. Both were enthusiastically admired, and better than this, all the cavalry were heartily glad to follow both to Richmond, with Grant in command." CHAPTER X. grant's farewell to his soldiers MAKES A TOUR THROUGH THE NORTHERN STATES HIS RECEPTION AT GALENA MAKES A TOUR THROUGH THE SOUTH HIS VIEW OF ITS CONDITION "GENERAL ORDERS, NO. 3." SUPPRESSION OF THE RICHMOND Examiner — A reception by the LEATHER DEALERS OF NEW YORK IS PRESENTED WITH $100,000 — RECEPTION AT BROOKLYN ACADEMY OF MUSIC IS MADE GENERAL IN THE REGULAR ARMY HIS LETTER TO GENERAL ORD. On the loth of April General Grant reached Washing- ton, where he was received with great enthusiasm. The city was illuminated in a manner never before known in its annals. On the following day General Grant attended a meeting of the President's cabinet, and during a con- versation with the President was invited by that officer to attend Ford's Theatre with him that eveninsf. Grant had business which demanded his presence in Philadelphia, and therefore could not attend. Lincoln attended and lell under the assassin's bullet. The war being over, and the moment having arrived when it became necessary to discharge the brave boys who had so earnestly followed him to victory, General (irant issued the following address : *' SohHers of the Armies of the United States — By your patriotic devotion to your country in the hour of danger and alarm, your magnificent fighting, bravery and en- (104) THE CIVIL WAR. 165 durance, joii have maintained the supremacy of the Union and the Constitution, overthrown all armed opposition to the enforcement of the laws and of the proclamation for- ever abolishing slavery — the cause and pretext of the Rebellion — and opened the way to the rightful authorities to restore order and inaugurate peace on a permanent and enduring basis on every foot of American soil. Your marches, sieges and battles, in distance, duration, resolu- tion and brilliancy of results, dim the lustre of the world's past military achievements, and will be the patriot's pre- cedent in defence of liberty and right in all time to come. In obedience to your country's call you left your homes and families in her defence. Victory has crowned your valor and secured the purpose of your patriotic hearts ; and, with the gratitude of your countrymen and the highest honors a great and free nation can accord, you will soon be permitted to return to your homes and fami- lies, conscious of having discharged the highest duty of American citizens. To achieve these glorious triumphs, and secure to yourselves, your fellow-countrymen and posterity the blessings of free institutions, tens of thou- sands of your gallant comrades have fallen and sealed the priceless legacy with their blood. The graves of these a grateful nation bedews with tears, honors their memory, and will ever cherish and support their stricken families." During the summer which followed General Grant made a tour through the Northern States, and was every- where received with enthusiasm. From thence he pro- ceeded westward, visiting the tomb of Lincoln at Spring- field, 111. Subsequently he visited his old home at Galena, 111. Here he was tendered a grand reception, and the citizens of that place manifested their apprecia- tion of his services by presenting him with a furnished house, situated just out of the town, and commanding a IfiR J AYE OF GENERAL GRANT. fine view of the river and surronnding country. At New Yorlv a grand banquet was tendered him at the Fifth Avenue Hotel. Concerning it one has observed : " The enthusiasm with which his entrance was greeted was such as rarely finds genuine expression in fashionable society, where the conventional restraints of good breeding deny the expression of every natural feeling on the supposition that such conduct is vulgar. Though he was the centre %-p'' ^ 1 CUAliLE.-^iU^. of attraction, Grant remained as impassive and apparently unconcerned as he always does. Such ovations he re- ceives, as he gains his victories, without surprise and without elation." In the fall General Grant made a tour through the South in the interest of the Government. On the 1st of December he entered Charleston, S. C. The Union League, composed of colored citizens, gave him a torch- THE CIVIL WAK. 167 light procession and serenade. Other points were also visited, and among them Richmond, Raleigh and Savan- nah. One of the objects — and perhaps we should say tJie object — of Grant's tour at this time was to obtain in- formation concerning the workings of the military gov- ernment and also of the Freedman's Bureau, and to ascertain the moral and physical condition of the people. « ' \-i^wf CAPITOL, AT RALEIGU. The results of his investigations are given in his report made to the President soon after his return. In this re- port he says : " It seems to me that this could be corrected by regard- ing every officer on duty with troops in the Southern States as an agent of the Freedman's Bureau, and then have all orders from the head of the Bureau sent through 11 168 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the department commanders. This would create a re- sponsibility that would cause uniformity of action through- out the South, and cause the orders and instructions from the head of the Bureau being carried out, and would relieve from duty and pay a large number of employes of the Government." It would seem that had these measures been carried out they would have secured the results which were desired. It is well known what followed the failure to adopt theui. On the Tith of January. 1866, the follow- ing order was issued from the War Department : General Orders, No. 3. f War Department, Adjutant-General's Office. 1 Washington, January 12th, 1866, Military division and department commanders whose commands embrace or are composed of any of the late rebellious States, and who have not already done so, will at once issue and enforce orders protecting from prosecution or suits, in the State or municipal courts of such States, all officers and soldiers of tlie armies of the United States, and all persons thereto attaclied, or in any way thereto belonging, subject to military authority, charged with of- fences for acts done in their military capacity, or pursuant to orders from military authority, and to protect from suit or prosecu- tion all loyal citizens or persons charged with offences done against the rebel forces, directl}^ or indirectly, during the existence of the Rebellion, and all persons, their agents or employes, charged with the occupancy of abandoned lands or plantations, or the possession or custody of any kind of property whatever, who occupied, used, po.ssessed or controlled the same, pursuant to the order of the President or any of the civil or military departments of the Govern- ment, and to jjrotect them from any penalty or damages that may have been, or may be, pronounced or adjudged in said courts in any ot such cases, and also protecting colored persons from prose- cutions in any of said States, charged with offences for which white persons are not prosecuted or punished in the same manner or degree. By command of Likutknaxt-Genkkai- GkanT: K. 1). TowNsKM), A.s.-iidant Adjutant- General. THE CIVIL WAR. 169 T'l Febniarv General Grant issued an order for the sup- pression of the Richmond Examiner, on account of the unpatriotic utterances of tliat paper. On the 19th of the same month, however, it was permitted to resume its issue. During the same month, General Grant visited New York, and was given a grand reception by the leather dealers of that city, in the warerooms of Messrs. Arm- strong & Sons, in Ferry street. Upon Grant's appearance he was loudly cheered. In response to the oft-repeated call for a speech, he said : " Gentlemen, you know I never make speeches. I am happy to meet my old friends of the leather trade." Before leaving the city, a purse of ^100,000 was presented him by the citizens of that city. During this visit, also, he visited the rooms of the Union Relief Connnittee and inspected specimens of writing exe- cuted by soldiers who had lost their right arms in the Rebellion. There were two hundred and seventy speci- mens exhibited. After the General had examined them, he said, " These boys write better with their left hands thnn I do with my right." He then made the following entry upon the visitors' book : New York, February 24th, 1866. I have examined the large and exceedingly interesting collec- tion of the left-hand manuscripts written by our disabled soldiers who have lost their right arms. They are eminently lionorable to the authors, and from the excellence of the penmanship it would require a task I should be sorry to accept to decide on the merits of the competitors. U- S. Grant, Lieutenant- General U. S. Army. Two days later he was given a splendid reception at the Brooklyn Academy of Music, after which, on the same night, he left for Washington on a special train. In April he paid a second visit to Richmond, and was received with great cordiality. In July, the grade of General was 170 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. created. For that position Grant was nominated, which nomination was confirmed on the 25th of the same month. It is a well-known fact that there was a disagreement between the President and the Congress which met in 1867, and we need not dwell upon the particulars relating thereto, only so far as they are calculated to throw light on the life and character of General Grant. And such a consideration, we are confident, will show that his sympa- thies were ever on the side of justice and right. On the 12th of July, in response to a call from Congress, there was laid before that body a circular which had been issued on the 22d of the May previous, by the secretary of war, addressed to General Grant. It was as follows : " General : Recent occurrences in some of the military districts indicate a necessity of great vigilance, on the part of military commanders, to be prepared for the pre- vention and prompt suppression of riots and breaches of the public peace, especially in towns and cities ; and they should have their forces in hand, and so posted, on all occasions where disturbances may be apprehended, as to promptly check, and if possible to prevent, outbreaks and violence endangering public and private safety. You will, therefore, call tlie attention of commanders of mili- tary districts to this subject, and issue such precautionary orders as may be found necessary for the purpose in- dicated." To this General Grant added the following indorse- ment : " The above conveys all the instructions deemed neces- sary, and will be acted on by district commanders making special reports of precautionary orders issued by them to prevent the recurrence of mobs or other unlawful via- Icnce." THE CIVIL WAll. 171 He also sent the following letter to General Ord, Com- mander of the Fourth District, which will indicate the course of action which he felt it his duty to pursue in reference to the matter of reconstruction : Washington, June 23c?, 1867. Brevet Major- General E. 0. Orel, Commanding Fourth District: General : A copy of your final instructions to the Board of Registration of June 10th, 1867, is just received. I entirely dis- sent from tho views contained in paragraph 4. Your views as to the duties of registers to register every man who will take the re- quired oath, though they may know tlie applicant perjures himself, is sustained by the attorney -general. My opinion is that it is the duty of the Board of Registration to see, as far as lies in their power, that no unauthorized person is allowed to register. To secure this end registers should be allowed to administer oaths and examine witnesses. The law, however, makes district com- manders their own interpreters of their power and duty under it, and, in m}' opinion, the attorney-general or myself can no more than give our opinion as to the meaning of the law. Neither can enforce their views against the judgment of those made respon- sible for the faithful execution of the law — the district com- manders. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, U. y. Geant, General. 172 OK ANT AT THK CT.OSK OF TIIK WAR. CHAPTER XL grant's opinion on the parole question GRANT AP- POINTED SECRETARY OF WAR acl interim — he opposes THE REMOVAL OF STANTON HIS TRIBUTE TO SHERIDAN HE RESIGNS THE POSITION AS SECRETARY OF WAR WHAT HE ACCOMPLISHED PRESIDENT JOHNSON SCOLDS. On the Ttli of April General Pope, then in command of the Third District, addressed a letter to General Grant, desirino- to know his views of the status of Con- federate officers which had been paroled at the close of the war. He was desirous of knowing whether the paroles, which were issued in good faith at that time, still held good, or had been made of no effect by the procla- mation of the President. Pope's reason for desiring information was that he might know what course of action he ought to pursue in regard to those vrlio had been paroled and j^et counselled the people to resist the action of the Reconstruction measures passed by Congress. He stated it to be his opinion that the paroles issued demanded that all those to whom they had been granted should return to their homes and faithfully observe the laws, and, further, that the}' were to refrain from seeking to lead others to disregard them also. He also declared it to be his opinion that those who attempted to keep up the difficulty, and to prevent its adjustment in accordance with the action of Congress, violated their parole. Grant responded : ar6) 174 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. '•' Your views on the obligation of a parole are in strict accoidance with my own." On the 6th of August, 1867, President Johnson noti- fied Secretary of War Stanton that he was dismissed from office. Stanton refused to yield his position, claim- ing that a bill recently passed by Congress, entitled Tenure of Office Bill, provided that he could not be dis- missed from office without the concurrence of the Senate, and that body was not in session at that time. On the 12th of August Johnson addressed a second letter to Stanton, stating that he must at once " cease to exercise all the functions pertaining" to the office of secretary of war, and "transfer to General U. S. Grant, who has this day been authorized and empowered to act as Secretary of War ad interim, all records, books, papers and other public property now in your custody and charge." On the same day Grant received notice of his appoint- ment, and he at once addressed the following letter to Stanton : f " Head-quarters Armies of the U. S., I " Washington, August 12th, 1867. "77(c Hon. E. M. Stanton, Secretary of War. " Sir : Enclosed herewith I have to transmit to you a copy of a letter just received from the President of the United States, notify- ing me of my assignment as acting Secretary of War, and direct- ing mc to assume those duties at once. In notifying you of my acceptance, I cannot let the opportunity pass without expressing to you my appreciation of the zeal, patriotism, firmness and ability with wliich you have ever discharged the duty of Secretary of War. " With great respect, your obedient servant, " U. S. Grant, General'' Stanton at once surrendered his olTice to Grant, and addressed the President as follows : '• Under a sense of ])ul)lic duty I am compelled to deny your right, under tlie coikstitution and laws of the United States, without 175 ,76 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the .advice and consent of the Senate, to suspend me from office as secretary of war, or the exercise of any or all functions pertaining to the same. But inasmuch as the General connnanding the armies of the United States has been appointed Secretary of War ad interim, and has notified me that he has accepted the appointment, I have no alternative but to submit, under protest, to superior force." The acceptance by General Grant of the position thus tendered him subjected him to many an unjust criticism. Still Grant had acted, as he ever did, from a conviction of duty, and the removal of Stanton was in direct oppo- sition to his wishes, as expressed in the following extract from a letter addressed to the President : " His removal cannot be effected against his will without the consent of the Senate. It was but a short time since the United States Senate was in session^ and why not then have asked for his removal, if it is desired ? It certainly was the intention of the legislative branch of the government to place a cabinet minister beyond the power of execu- tive removal, and it is pretty well understood that, so far as cabinet ministers are affected by the Tenure of Office Bill, it was intended specially to protect the secretary of war, whom the country felt great confidence in. The meaning of the law may be explained away by an astute lawyer, but the common sense and the views of loyal people will give it the effect intended by its framers." At the same time he remonstrated agrainst the removal of General Sheridan from the Fifth Military District in the following language : " Let me ask you to consider the effect it would have upon the public. He is universally and deservedly beloved by the people who sustained this govcrniiuMit through its trials, and feared by those who would be still the enemies of the government. It fell to THE CIVIL WAR. 177 tlie lot of but few men to do as mucli against an armed enemy as General Sheridan did during the Rebellion, and it is within the scope of the ability of but few, in this or in any other country, to do what he has done. His civil administration has given equal satisfaction. He has had difficulties to contend with which no other district com- mander has encountered. Almost, if not quite, from the day he was appointed district commander to the present time the press has given out that he Avas to be removed, that the administration was not satisfied with him. This has emboldened the opponents of the laws of Congress within his command to oppose him in every way in their power, and has rendered necessary measures which other- wise might never have been necessary. In conclusion, allow me to say as a friend, desiring peace and quiet, the welfare of the whole country, north and south, that it is, in my opinion, more than the loyal people of this country (I mean those who supported the government during the great Rebellion) will quieth^ submit to, to see the very man, of all others, in whom they have expressed their confidence, removed." The removal of General Sheridan was not effected until after General Grant entered upon his duties as Sec- retary of War ad interim. Having been directed by the President to transfer General Sheridan to the Department of the Missouri, he replied as follows: "It is unmis- takably the expressed wish of the country that General Sheridan should not be removed from his present com- mand. This is a republic where the will of the people is the law of the land. I beg leave that their voice may be heard. General Sheridan has performed his civil duties faithfully and intelligently. His removal will only be regarded as an effort to defeat the laws of Con<:;ress. It will be interpreted by the unreconstructed element in the 178 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. South — those who did all they could to break up this government by arms, and now wish to be the only element consulted as to the method of restoring order — as a triumph. It will embolden them to renewed oppo- sition to the will of the loyal masses, believing that they have the Executive with them." But, in spite of this remonstrance, Sheridan was removed. For five months Grant held the position to which he had been appointed. When Congress reassembled, it refused to sanction the removal of Stanton, whereupon Grant at once resigned. The results of that five months' service is thus stated by General John L. Swift : " By his direction, while Secretary of War ad intei'im, the duties of the Bureaus of Rebel Archives and of Ex- change of Prisoners were transferred to the adjutant- general's office, thus dispensing with the services of a great number of officers and clerks. He reduced the number of agents and subordinates in the Freedmen's Bureau, and largely curtailed its expenses ; closed useless hospitals and dispensaries; discontinued a long list of superfluous mustering and disbursing offices, discharging their numerous incumbents and attendants, and thus stopping the needless expenditure of considerable sums. He sold surplus animals, ambulances, wagons, etc., to the amount of $33,535, and superfluous and useless stores and war material of various kinds amounting to $208,000, and 1,000 temporary buildings used by quar- termasters throughout the country, to make every prac- ticable reduction in the number of employes on duty under their direction. The result was that in a short time the monthly expenses of that department, arising from the hire of civilians, had been reduced by $407,065, making an annual i saving in this item alone of nearly $5,000,000. Besides the class of employes just mentioned, THE CIVIL WAR. 179 the number of mechanics, laborers and others in various branches of service were so reduced that the monthly expenditures in this particular were curtailed full $100,000, making an annual saving of more than $1,200,000." General Grant's resignation of the office of Secretary of War ad interim was the result of an honest conviction of duty. When the Senate refused to concur in the reasons for the suspension of Mr. Stanton, Grant at once regarded his duties as terminated by that resolution, and that he could not lawfully exercise such duties for a moment after the adoption of the resolution by the Senate. That resolution reached him on the evening of the 18th of January. He at once proceeded to his room in the War Department, bolted one door on the inside, locked the other on the outside, delivered the key to the adjutant-general, and proceeded to the headquarters of the army and addressed a note to the President, informing him that he (General Grant) was no longer Secretary of War ad interim. This resolution by no means pleased the President, and he at once charged him with having violated his word, saying that he had promised to hold the position until the Supreme Court should decide the merits of the question. In his reply Grant denied that he had made such statement, saying that he never intended to hold the position in opposition to the action of the Senate. The controversy soon assumed a personal nature, in which the President assailed the character of Grant in no gentle manner. On the other hand. Grant's replies, while he endeavored to show the right of his position, treated the President with great respect. Johnson appealed to the members of his cabinet for support in the matter, but even in this direction failed to secure the desired end. In a letter addressed to the President General Grant con- cludes as follows : 180 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. "The course you would have it understood I agreed to pursue was in violation of law and without orders from you, while the course I did pursue, and which I never doubted you fully understood, was in accordance with law, and not in disobedience of any orders of my superior. " And now, Mr. President, when my honor as a soldier and integrity as a man have been so violently assailed, pardon me for saying that I can but regard this whole matter from the beginning to the end as an attempt to involve me in the resistance of law, for which you hesi- tated to assume the responsibility in orders, and thus to destroy my character before the country. I am in a measure confirmed in this conclusion by your recent orders directing me to disobey orders from the secretary of war — my superior and your subordinate — without having countermanded his authority to issue the orders I am to disobey. With the assurance, Mr. President, that nothing less than a vindication of my personal honor and character could have induced this correspondence on my part, I. have tiie honor," etc. With his withdrawal from this office closes, practically, definitely, the military chapter of General Grant's life. Henceforth the honors he was to win and wear were to be those of the civic crown, the rewards of the distin- guished citizen, the crown of the presidency. The simple story just concluded of his military life is one that no one can read without a stirring sense of admiration. As a commander he outranks any general of modern times. He lost more men in one battle than Wellington ever commanded, and through all the momen- tous, monstrous struggles of the great Rebellion his crest was ever in the thickest of the battle, was ever on the s|)ot that bred victory lor the Union arms. His name was the synonym of victory, his arm the guide-post of glory ! I CHAPTER XII. ORANT A PRESIDENT — THE CAUSES WHICH LED TO HIS BEING NOMINATED — HIS ELECTION AND VOTES A SUMMARY OF HIS POLITICAL CAREER SOME OF THE GREATER INCIDENTS OF HIS WHITE HOUSE LIFE SAN DOMINGO FINANCE — THE ALABAMA ARBITRATION THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBI. TION THE CLOSE OF HIS PUBLIC SERVICE THE THIRD TERM — HIS LAST MESSAGE TO THE NATION. The natural ladder of fame when it has led a hero to the topmost round of military leadership offers next the laurels of civic honor. It was therefore inevitable that succeeding Grant's triumph as a warrior were to come his years as an administrator. Yet Grant was not a politician. He was not seeking office nor the prizes politics bestowed. His platform politically may be gathered from a speech delivered at Des Moines: " Let us labor for security of free thought, free speech, free press, pure morals, unfettered religious sentiments, and equal rights and privileges for all men, irrespective of nationality, color or religion ; encourage free schools ; resolve that not one dollar appropriated to them shall go to the support of any sectarian school ; resolve that neither State nor nation shall support any institution, save those where every child may get common-school education unmixed with atheistic, pagan or sectarian teaching." Nor could Grant be considered a good Republican in a (181) / r } 182 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. part}' sense. His leanings, had he ever analyzed them or proclaimed them to himself, would have possibly led him into the Democratic camp. But his patriotism was sterling, the Republican party had made and conducted the war to a successful conclusion ; Grant was a part of that success. Then, too, the acts of omission and commission of Andrew Johnson had well nigh discouraged as well as dismantled the Republican party. It needed a strong leader to unite the scattered forces under one banner, it needed some great popular sentiment to make all efforts for victory. It was to be found in the name of Grant — Grant was the word to conjure with. Himself, one of the war's successes, no one could better lead the banner of victory. He was unanimously nominated for the Presidency by the Republican National Convention which convened at Chicago, May 21st, 1868. Senator Hawley thus tells the story of that event : "At the Republican National Convention of 1868, all who were present will remember the absolute unanimity and enthusiasm with which General Grant received his first nomination for the Presidency. It was with difficulty that the convention could be restrained and confined to the regular orderly proceedings, for the great multitude seemed determined to anticipate the proceedings and nominate the General with one great shout, while those who desired a more impressive and effective proceeding restrained all irregularities, and in due course of things the names of every State and Territory were called, and the leader of each delegation formally gave its full vote lor Ulysses S. Grant, each successive announcement being received with a roll of applause, and at the summing of tli«' whole, the convention breaking into a tremendous and overwhelming demonstration that died away and 12 1S3 184 LIFE OF GENERAL GRA]^T. rose again for many minutes. It was but recording the unanimous wish of the party ; it was a result which no man contrived, and which no man could have prevented. As president of the convention, it became my duty to lead the committee that was instructed to proceed to Washington and formally notify the General. "Arriving in Washington the committee requested me to call upon the General and ask him for his wishes con- cerning the more formal proceedings. The late Senator Ferry, of Connecticut, accompanied me. General Grant received us with his usual quiet and simple cordiality, and we sat with him for possibly an hour in his library. The arrangements for the next day were easily made, but the General seemed inclined to talk, and, of course, we were only too glad to listen. Some of his expressions I remember with exactness ; others I can give correctly in substance. " He said, ' If this were simply a matter of personal preference and satisfaction, I would not wish to be Presi- dent. I have now arrived at the extreme limit of the ambition of a soldier. I was at the head of the Army of the United States during the great decisive war. I remain the head of the army, with the country reunited and at peace, as I believe it is to be for many years — I hope for- ever. The people speak kindly of me, even our fellow citizens of the South, many of them. If I remain where I am, as time passes and the animosities of the war die away, I do not see why I should not be at peace with all men. The pay of the position abundantly provides for myself and my family. What more could a man wish ? To go into the Presidency opens altogether a new field to me, in which there is to be a new strife, to which I am not trained. It may be that I should fail in giving satisfaction to the country. Then I should go out at the AS PRESIDENT. 186 end of my political service having reduced the number of my friends and lost my position as a soldier. That is a very disagreeable possibility. But there is nothing to be said ; there is no choice left for me ; there is nothing else to do.' SENATOK JOSEPH R. HAWLEY. " This he repeated several times : ' I have no choice whatever but submission.' He spoke with a serious respect for the great place, and a sense of its responsi- bilities. It is not possible that the gratitude of the people 186 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. and the unanimity with which he was sought should have been otherwise than agreeable to any man. But at that moment he seemed to be dwelling upon the pleasant things which he surrendered in accepting the nomination, and yet to go forward with the simple obedience of a thorough soldier. •' When the committee called upon General Grant the next day, I held in my hand the manuscript of a few re- marks in which I made the formal announcement. The General replied without notes and without hesitation. The accurate stenographic report show^s that he replied with as much aptness as though he had taken a day to prepare. '' Tlie most precious autograph in my collections is the letter of acceptance, which was addressed to me as the president of the convention, and in which occurs the famous expression, ' Let us have peace.' It is all in his own hand, was his first draft, and contains onl}' one cor- rection, the change of a word, at the suggestion of Schuyler Colfax." An active canvass followed, in which the brief expres- sion — " let us have peace " — in Grant's letter of accept- ance, was liberally employed by Republican journals and orators to tone down what were regarded as rapidly growing race and sectional differences, and with such effect that Grant carried all of the States save eisht, re- ceiving an electoral vote of 214 against 80. Four years later Grant came face to face with the Liberal Republican party. That party was founded through an issue raised in Missouri, though the course of Horace (Jreeley had long pointed toward the organiza- Liou of something of the kind, and with equal plainness it pointed to his desire to be its champion and candidate for the Presidency. In 1870 the Republican party, then in AS PRESIDENT. 187 control of the Legislature of Missouri, split into two parts on the question of the removal of the disqualifications imposed upon rebels by the State Constitution during the war. Those favoring the removal of disabilities were headed by B. Gratz Brown and Carl Schurz, and they ^called themselves Liberal Republicans; those opposed were called and accepted the name of Radical Republicans. The former quickly allied themselves with the Demo- crats, and thus carried the State, though Grant's admin- istration " stood in " with the Radicals. As a result the disabilities were quickly removed, and those who believed with Greeley now sought to promote a reaction in Repub- lican sentiment all over the country. Greeley was the recognized head of this movement, and he was ably aided by ex-Governor Curtin and Cobnel A. K. McClure in Pennsylvania; Charles Francis Adams, Massachusetts; Judge Trumbull, in Illinois; Reuben E. Fenton, in New York ; Brown and Schurz, in Missouri, and in fact by leading Republicans in nearly all of the States, who at once began to lay plans to carry the next presidential election. They charged that the Enforcement Acts of Congress were designed more for the political advancement of Grant's adherents than for the benefit of the country ; that instead of suppressing they were calculated to promote a war of races in the South ; that Grant was seeking the establishment of a military despotism, etc. These leaders were, as a rule, brilliant men. They had tired of unap- preciated and unrewarded service in the Republican party, or had a natural fondness for ^'pastures new," and, in the language of the day, they quickly succeeded in making political movements "lively." In the spring of 1871 the Liberal Republicans and Democrats of Ohio — and Ohio seems to be the most fertile 188 LIFE OF GENEllAL GRANT. soil for new ideas — prepared for a fusion, and after fre- quent consultations of the various leaders with Mr. Greeley in New York, a call was issued from Missouri on the 24th of January, 1872, for a National Convention of GRANT'S STAKT FOR HIS SECOND INAUGURATION. the Liberal Republican party to be held at Cincinnati, May 1st. The well-matured plans of the leaders were carried out in the nomination of Hon. Horace Greeley for President and B. Gratz Brown for Vice-President, thouo-h AS PRESIDENT. 189 not without a serious struggle over the chief nomination, which was warmly contested by the friends of Charles Francis Adams. Indeed he led in most of the six ballots, but finally all the friends of other candidates voted for Greeley, and he received 482 to 187 for Adams. Dissatis- fiction followed, and a later effort was made to substitute Adams for Greeley, but it failed. The original leaders now prepared to capture the Democratic Convention, which met at Baltimore, June 9th. By nearly an unan- imous vote it was induced to indorse the Cincinnati platform, and it likewise finally indorsed Greeley and Brown — though not without many bitter protests. A few straight-out Democrats met later at Louisville, Ky., Sep- tember 3d, and nominated Charles O'Conor, of New York, for President, and John Quincy Adams, of Massachusetts, for Vice-President, and these were kept in the race to the end, receiving a popular vote of about 30,000. The regular Republican National Convention was held at Philadelphia, June 5th. It renominated Grant for President unanimously. At the succeeding election Grant carried enough States to give him 286 votes in the Electoral College, as against eighty for all others — though seventeen of those cast for Greeley, who had in the mean- time died from disappointment, were not voted. Eight years later — 1880 — a desperate attempt was made by the stalwart leaders of the Republican party to nominate Grant for "a third term." Grant's three power- ful Senatorial friends, in the face of bitter protests, had secured the instructions of their respective State Con- ventions for Grant. Conklins: had done this in New York, Cameron in Pennsylvania, Logan in Illinois, but in each of the three States the opposition was so impressive that no serious attempts were made to substitute other delegates for those which had previously been selected by 190- LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. their Congressional districts. As a result there was a large ininoritj in the delegations of these States opposed to the nomination of General Grant, and the votes of them could only be controlled by the enforcement of the unit rule. Senator Hoar of Massachusetts, the president of the convention, decided against its enforcement, and as a result all of the delegates were free to vote upon either State or District instructions, or as they chose. This ended Grant's candidacy, for although Senator Conkling made a brilliant battle for his leader, the result was adverse. In nominating General Grant, Senator Conk- ling spoke as follows, delivering his words passionately and with desperate emphasis, from which may be inferred the partisan bitterness with which the conflict was carried on: "'And when asked what State.he hails from, Our sole reply shall be, He hails from Appomattox, And its famous apple tree.'' " In obedience to instructions which I should never dare to disregard, expressing also my own firm convic- tions, I rise, Mr. President, in behalf of the State of New York, to propose a nomination with which the country and the Republican party can grandly win. The election before us is the Austerlitz of American politics. It will decide, for many years, whether the country shall be Re- publican or Cossack. The supreme need of the hour is not a candidate who can carry Michigan. All Republi- can candidates can do that. Tlie need is not of a candi- date popular in the Territories, because the Territories have no vote. The need is of a candidate who can carry doubtful States. Not the doubtful States of the North aloue, but also doubtful States of the South, which we have heard, if I understand ariojht, ou^ht to take little or AS PRESIDENT. 191 no part here, because the South has nothing to give, but everything to receive. The need which urges itself on the conscience and reason of the convention is of a candi- date who can carry doubtful States, both North and South. And believing that he, more surely than any other man, can carry New York against any opponent, and can carry not only the North, but several States of the South, New York is for Ulysses S. Grant. *•' Never defeated — in peace or in war — his name is the most illustrious borne by living man. " His services attest his greatness, and the country — nay, the world — know them by heart. His fame was earned not alone by things written and said, but by the arduous greatness of things done ; and perils and emergen- cies will search in vain in the future, as they have searched in vain in the past, for any other on whom the nation leans with such confidence and trust. Never having had a policy to enforce against the will of the people, he never betrayed a cause or a friend, and the people will never desert or betray him. Standing on the highest eminence of human distinction, modest, firm, simple and self-poised, having filled all lands with his renown, he has seen not only the high-born and the titled, but the poor and the lowly, in the uttermost ends of the earth, rise and uncover before him. He has studied the needs and the defects of many systems of government ; and he has returned a better American than ever, with a wealth of knowledge and experience added to the hard common sense which shone so conspicuously in all the fierce light that beat upon him during sixteen years, the most trying, the most portentous, the most perilous in the nation's history. '' Villified and reviled, ruthlessly aspersed by unnum- bered presses, not in other lands, but in his own, assaults upon him have seasoned and strengthened his hold on the 192 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. public heart. Calumny's ammunition has all been ex- ploded ; the powder has all been burned once — its force is spent — and the name of Grant will glitter a bright and imperishable star in the diadem of the Republic when those who have tried to tarnish it have mouldered in for- o'otten sraves : and when their memories and their epi- taphs have vanished utterly. '' Never elated by success, never depressed by adversity, he has ever, in peace as in war, shown the very genius of common sense. The terms he presented for Lee's surren- der foreshadowed the wisest prophecies and principles of true reconstruction. Victor in the greatest war of modern times, he quickly signalized his aversion to war and his love of peace by an arbitration of international disputes which stands the wisest, the most majestic example of its kind in the world's diplomacy. " When inflation, at the height of its popularity and frenzy, had swept both Houses of Congress, it was the veto of Grant, single and alone, which overthrew expan- sion, and cleared the way for specie resumption. To him, immeasurably more than to any other man, is due the fact that every paper dollar is at last as good as gold. " With him as our leader, we shall have no defensive campaign. We shall have nothing to explain away. We shall have no apologies to make. The shafts and arrows have all been aimed at him, and they lie broken and harmless at his feet.' " Life, liberty and property will find a safeguard in him. When he said of the colored men in Florida, ' Wherever I am, they may come also,' he meant that, had he the power, the poor dwellers in the cabins of the South should no longer be driven in terror from the homes of their childhood and the graves of their murdered dead. AS PRESIDENT. 193 When he refused to receive Dennis Kearney in California, he meant that communism, hiwlessness and disorder, although it might stalk high-headed and dictate law to a whole city, would always find a foe in him. He meant that, popular or unpopular, he would hew to the line of right, let the chips tly where they may. " His integrity, his common sense, his courage, his un- equalled experience, are the qualities offered to his coun- try. The only argument — the only one — that the wit of man or the stress of politics has devised, is one which would dumbfounder Solomon, because Solomon thought there was nothing new under the sun. Having tried Grant twice and found him faithful, we are told that we mast not, even after an interval of years, trust him again. My countrymen ! my countrymen ! what stultification does such a falhicy involve. The American people ex- clude Jefferson Davis from public trust. Why ? Because he was the arch-traitor and would-be destroyer. And now the same people is asked to ostracise Grant, and not to trust /u'w?. Why? Why ? I repeat. Because he was the arch-preserver of his country, and because, not only in war, but twice as Civil Magistrate, he gave his highest, noblest efforts to the Republic. Is this an electioneering juggle, or is it hypocrisy's masquerade ? There is no field of human activity, responsibility or reason in which rational beings object to an agent because he has been weighed in the balance and not found wanting. There is, 1 say, no department of human reason in which sane men reject an agent because he has had experience, making him exceptionally competent and fit. From the man who shoes your horse to the lawyer who tries your cause, the officer who manages your railway or your mill, the doctor into whose hands you give your life, or the minister who seeks to save your soul — what man do you reject because 104 LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. by his works you have known him, and found him faith- ful and fit." The issue of that convention the reader well knows. Four years later — one year ago — if there had been any intention to attempt to nominate General Grant, the movement was killed outright by the overwhelming mis- fortune that overtook the great hero in the shadows and perils of Wall street. Grant's Vice-President during his first term was Schuy- ler Colfax, of Indiana; during his second, Henry Wilson, of Massachusetts. His cabinet officers were as follows : Secretary of State, E. B. Washburne', Illinois, March 5tli, 1869; Hamilton Fish, New York, March 11th, 1869. Secretary of Treasury, George S. Boutwell, Massachusetts, March 11th, 1869; William A. Richardson, Massachu- setts, March 17th, 1873 ; Benjamin H. Bristow, Kentucky, June 2d, 1874; Lot M. Morrill, Maine, June 21st, 1876. Secretary of War, John A. Rawlins, Illinois, March 11th, 1869; William T. Sherman, Ohio, September 9th, 1869; William W. Belknap, Iowa, October 25th, 1869 ; Alphonso Taft, Ohio, March 8th, 1876; J. D. Cameron, Pennsyl- vania, May 22d, 1876. Secretary of Navy, Adolph E. Borie, Pennsylvania, March 5th, 1869; George M. Robe- son, New Jersey, June 25th, 1869. Secretary of Interior, Jacob D. Cox, Ohio, March 5th, 1869 ; Columbus Delano, Ohio, November 1st, 1870; Zachariah Chandler, Michi- gan, October 19th, 1875. Attorney-General, E. R. Hoar, Massachusetts, March 5th, 1869; Amos T. Akerman, Georgia, June 23d, 1870; George H. Williams, Oregon, December 14th, 1871; Edwards Pierrepont, New York, April 26th, 1875; Alphonso Taft, Ohio, May 22d, 1876. Postmaster-General, J. A. J. Creswell, Maryland, March •)lh, 1869; Marshall Jewell, Connecticut, August 24th, 1874 ; James M. Tyner, Indiana, July 12th, 1876. AS PRESIDENT. 195 Grant was President eight years. These years have been summed up by General John L. Swift thus : " Grant made mistakes in war : his virtue consisted in never defending or repeating them. He erred in civil administration : it is but to acknowledge his humanity to admit his liability to stumble. He had the military con- tempi, not always sound, for doctrinaires and politicians. He did not, as it would have been better for him to have done, consult familiarly public men who had done much to make true public sentiment. His method of selecting TIIK XOKTII FROXT OF TJIY. -WIITTK IIOTTSE. his cabinet and of making appointments will not stand the test of rigid criticism. There is a better way to choose ministers and high officials than because of their genial qualities or good fellowship. As ninety per cent, of the civil list to-day were officers under Grant, and as no complaint is now made in that direction, it is apparent in the man that his appointments were judicious. . . , The motive was always good and true, whatever may have been the mistake. Coming into civil life unpre- pared, save by natural excellence of judgment, purity of 196 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. intention and firnniess of resolve, his administration- brought the country each year nearer to that consumma- tion of reduced expenses, lessened public debt, unques- tioned public credit and peace at home and abroad, to which he stood pledged in assuming his responsibilities. If those in whom he placed confidence were unfaithful, no one of his bitterest maligners has ever yet dared to impugn his individual integrity or refuse to him the qual- ification Aristides said ' became a general/ and that is 'to have clean hands.' " Nor, too, should we forget, in summing up Grant's career as President of the United States, the difficulties which he encountered from the onset in the numberless difficulties arising from the condition of things in the re- cently conquered States of the South. Remembering there our charity with them throws a broad mantle over the acts that our judgment would hasten to condemn. A glimpse of the state of affairs that the President was called on to construe and manage may well be cited in the matter of the Enforcement Acts. In all of the Southern States those who then prided themselves in being "unreconstructed" and "irreconcila- ble " bitterly opposed both the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Amendments, and on these issues excited new feelings of hostility to the "carpet baggers" and negroes of the South. With the close of the war thousands of Northern men had settled in the South. All of them were de- nounced as political adventurers by the rebels, who opposed the amendments, reconstruction and Freedman's Bureau acts. ^Ihis gave rise to the Ku Klux Klans, secret societies organized with a view to affright negroes from participating in the elections, and to force white men of Republican leanings to leave the country. It is almost needless to add that as the organization grew its objects AS PRESIDENT. 197 broadened, until midnight assaults, horrible whippings, outrages and murders were of nightly occurrence. To repress these outrages Congress passed an act, on May 31st, 1870, authorizing the President to use all authority necessary to suppress the perpetration of these political ci'imes. It was amended by other acts, and President Grant acted with great wisdom in carrying out his new powers. These have little force now, although some of them still stand. They became a dead letter after the defeat of the " carpet-bag" governments. The enforcement of the Ku Klux Act led to the dis- banding of that organization after the trial, arrest and conviction of many of the leaders. These trials brought out the facts and awakened many Southern minds, there- tofore incredulous, to the enormity of the secret political crimes which had been conmiitted in all the Southern States, and for a time popular sentiment even in the South, and amongst former rebel soldiers, ran strongly against the Klan. With fresh political excitements, however, fresh means of intimidation were employed at elections. Rifle clubs were formed, notably in South Car- olina and Mississippi, while in Louisiana the " White League" sprang into existence, and was organized in all of the neighboring States. These were more difficult to deal with. They were open organizations, created under the semblance of State militia acts. They became very popular, especially among the younger men, and from this time until the close of the presidential election in 1876 were potent factors in several Southern States. For an inexperienced man Grant met this issue most ably. The Act of Congress of 1862 had made "greenback" notes a legal tender, and they passed as such until 1869, against the protests of the Democrats in Congress, who 198 LIFE OF GE:N^ERAL GRANT. had questioned the right of Congress to issue paper money. It wais on this issue that Thaddeus Stevens ad- mitted the RepubHcans were travelling "outside of the Constitution" with a view to preserve the Government, and this soon became one of his favorite ways of meetino; partisan objections to war measures. At the December term of the Supreme Court, in 1869, a decision was ren- dered that the action of Congress was unconstitutional, the court then being accidentally Democratic in its com- position. The Republicans, believing that they could not afford to have their favorite, and it must be admitted most useful, financial measure questioned, secured an in- crease of two in the number of supreme justices— one under a law creating an additional justiceship, the other in place of a justice who had resigned— and in March. 1870, after the complexion of the court had been changed through Republican appointments made by President Grant, the constitutionality of the legal tender act was again raised, and, with Chief-Justice Chase (who had been Secretary of the Treasury in 1862) presiding, the previous decision was reversed. This was clearly a parti- san struggle before the court, and on the part of the Repub- licans an abandonment of old landmarks impressed on the country by the Jackson Democrats; but it is plain that without the greenbacks the war could not have been pressed with half the vigor, if at all. Neither party was consistent in this struggle, for Southern Democrats, who sided with their Northern colleagues in the plea of un- constitutionality, had, when " out of the Union," witnessed and advocated the issue of the same class of money bv the Confederate Congress. The difference was only In the ability to redeem, and this ability depended upon suc- cess m arms-the very thing the issue was designed to Pi-oniote. The last decision, despite its partisan surround- AS PRESIDENT. 199 ings and opposition, soon won popularity, and the right- eousness of the decision is to-da^^ ahiiost universally admitted. Grant was always sound in the statesmanship of finance. The war currency, as shown above, had no support from him so long as it was unredeemed. Con- cerning it he said : " Fluctuation in the paper value of the measure of all values (gold) is detrimental to the interests of trade. It makes the man of business an involuntary gambler, for in the sales where future payment is to be made both parties speculate as to what will be the value of the cur- rency to be paid and received. I earnestly recommend to you, then, such legislation as will insure a gradual return to specie payments, and put an immediate stop to fluctuations in the value of currency." In his first message he called attention to the fact that '" among the evils growing out of the Rebellion is that of an irredeemable currency. It is an evil which I hope will receive your earliest attention. It is a duty, and one of the highest duties of government, to secure to the citizen a medium of exchange of fixed, unvarying value. This implies a return to specie basis, and no substitute for it can be devised." During 1875 a law was passed which contained the following clause : "On and after the first day of January, Aiuio Domini eighteen hundred and seventy-nine, the Secretary of the Treasury shall redeem, in coin, the United States legal tender notes then outstanding, on their presentation for redemption at the office of the Assistant Treasurer of the United States, in the city of New York, in sums of not less than fifty dollars." Great pressure was brought to bear upon the President, 13 200 LIFE OF GENERAL GEAI^T. to induce him to withhold his signature from the Resump- tion Bill Not a few of Grant's warmest personal friends were ardent inflationists. Eminent bankers, prominent merchants, capitalists engaged in every kind of lousiness, sent in to him their remonstrance against the adoption of the measure. By petition, by personal appeal, by letter and also by telegraph, came the warning that the proposed policy would be the ruin of the country. "Prominent Republicans," says Swift, "doubted the' policy of naming a day when we should redeem. It was derided as a party dodge and a visionary scheme. Not for one moment did Grant waver. Pie felt that if the occasion slipped hy it might not come again. The bill was right. The vital interests of the country demanded that we should come back to financial sanity By his act the bill became law, and because of that act resumption is now an accomplished fact. It was among the last acts of special importance in his administration, and was the consummation of a recommendation made by him in his first state paper. . . . We are to-da}^ — because we had Grant lor President — regarded by the world as an honest nation." In these very essential matters General Grant was right, his policy was clear and determined, and history in sununing up his career will adjudge him much merit for the stand he took in the financial cause of this country. His career as President was signalized by many events that will serve to bring him substantial renown when the historian of the future bestows the laurels of renown. I have now but to mention a few of them. The second session of the 41st Congress began Decem- ber 5th, 1870. With all of the States represented, recon- Btruction being complete, the body was now divided I AS PRESIDENT. 201 politically as follows: Senate, 61 Republicans, 13 Demo- crats; House, 172 Republicans, 71 Democrats. Presi- dent Grant's annual message discussed a new question, and advocated the annexation of San Domingo to the United States. A treaty had been negotiated between President Grant and the President of the Republic of San Domingo as early as September 4th, 1869, looking to annexation, but it had been rejected b}' the Senate, Charles Sumner being prominent in his opposition to the measure. He and Grant experienced a growing personal unpleasantness, because of the President's attempt to negotiate a treaty without consulting Mr. Sumner, who was chairman of the Committee on Foreign Affairs, and it was charged that through the influence of the President he was removed by the Republican caucus from this chair- manship, and Senator Simon Cameron put in his place. Whether this was true or not, the differences, between Grant and Sumner were universally remarked, and Sumner's imperious pride led hir/ into a very vindictive assault upon the proposition. "Grant gave few other reasons for annexation than military ones; suggested that as a naval station it would facilitate all home operations in the gulf, while in the hands of a foreign power, in the event of war, it would prove the depot for many and dan- gerous warlike preparations. The question had little political significance, if it was ever designed to have any, and this second attempt to bring the scheme to the atten- tion of Congress, was that a joint resolution (as in the annexation of Texas) might be passed. This would re- quire but a majority, but the objection was met that no territory could be annexed Mathout a treaty, and this must be ratified by two-thirds of the Senate. A middle course was taken, and the President was authorized to appoint three commissioners to visit San Domingo and 202 LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. ascertain the desires of its people. These reported favor- ably, but the subject was finally dropped, probably be- cause the proposition could not command a two-thirds vote, and has not since attracted attention. In 1871 General Grant's administration achieved a brilliant record in the settlement of the long-disputed Alabama claims of the United States against Great Britain, arising from the depredations of the Anglo-rebel privateers, built and fitted out in British waters. These claims were referred by the Treaty of Washington, dated May 8th, 1871, to arbitrators, and this was the first and most signal triumph in the plan of arbitration, so far as the Government of the United States was concerned. The arbitrators were appointed, at the invitation of the Governments of Great Britain and the United States, from these poworc, and from Brazil, Italy and Switzerland. On September llth, 1872, they gave to the United States gross damages to the amount of $15,500,000, an amount which has subsequently proved to be really in excess of the demands of merchants and others claiming the loss of property through the depredations of the rebel ram Alabama and other rebel privateers. We append a list of the representatives of the several governments : Arbitrator on the part of the United States — Charles Francis Adams. Arbitrator on the part of Great Britain — The Right Honorable Sir Alexander Cockburn, Baronet, Lord Chief- Justice of England. Arbitrator on the part of Italy — His Excellency Senator Count Sclopis. Arbitrator on the part of Switzerland — Mr. Jacob Stamplli. Arbitrator on the part of Brazil — Baron D'ltajuba. Agent on the part of the United States — J. C. Bancroft Davis. THE GREAT CORLISS ENaiNE, STARTED T.Y GENKUAL GRANT. (203) 204 LIFE OF GEKERAL GRANT. Agent on the part of Great Britain — Right Honorable Lord Tenterden. Counsel for the United States — Caleb Cashing, William M, Evarts, Morrison R. Waite. Counsel for Great Britain —Sir Roundell Palmer. Solicitor for the United States — Charles C. Beaman, Jr. During 1873 occurred the Cuban Rebellion. The steamship Virffinius, flying the United States flag, was suspected of carrying men and supplies to the insurgent Cubans, was captured by a Spanish cruiser off the coast of Cuba, taken into port, and many of her passengers, her captain and some of her crew, were publicly shot by the local military authorities. Of course the affair pro- MAIN BUILDING OF THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. duced intense excitement in the United States, and for a time war between Spain and the United States seemed inevitable. But wisdom prevailed in the councils of the nation. Through the efforts of General Grant the war was prevented, and the difficulty amicably settled. In 1876 the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia took place. When everything was ready General Grant opened the valve through which the steam was to pass which was to set the gigantic Corliss engine and there- fore all tlie machinery in connection in motion. Dom Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, stood beside him at the time. He closed his term of service honored by the people whom A8 IMIESIDENT. 205 he liad so faithfully served. We use the word faithfully advisedly. We do not mean that there were no mistakes, no errors of judgment, but simply that in every act he acted conscientiously and upon honor. Many of his friends were anxious that he should serve the country as President for the third term. To this Grant pleasantly but firmly refused, saying that to do so would be to estab- lish a bad precedent, and that it would be an unwise thing for both himself and country. A popular writer thus refers to General Grant and his abilities: " By common consent, General Grant to-day is one of the ablest rulers in the world. He is one of the few men that occasion- ally come to the surface, in spite of all adverse sur- roundings. The opinion of politicians and demagogues is one thing ; that of the world is another. (^,^3y com- mon consent, Grant stands among the great military captains of the earth. He won his way by his own sword. He built on no man's foundation, into no man's labor. The hour that connected his name with our armies was the blackest. Public confidence had well- nigh died out. No plan succeeded. Defeat and disaster attended our arms everywhere. Grant had no patron ; no great friend ; no one politically to lend him a helping hand ; no eminent relations to speak a good word for him. His manner did not win confidence, nor promise success. DOM PEDRO, EMPEROR OF BRAZIL. He entered 206 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. He began at the foot and won his ascent by dogged obstinacy. Thousands would have left the army and cursed the ingratitude of Kepublics. But Grant knew that he had ability ; knew that the time would come when that ability would be needed and acknowledged. He fought more battles, commanded more men, took more spoils, gained more victories, captured more prisoners, in six years, than Napoleon did in twenty. ^ - " Grant will live beside Washington. And when the animosity of political life shall be forgotten, and the great services he has rendered to his country in the field and in the cabinet shall be fully recognized, he will be an example to young men in all coming time. A young man without money, without a patron, with no opening, wholly unknown to fame, he has carved his name in imperishable letters on the facade of the Republic. His old commander at West Point, when Grant was a cadet, waited for his orders. The greatest generals of modern times were proud to have fought under him. He wrote dispatches on his saddle-cloth that all Europe waited in breathless silence to read, — disj)atches that rank with the ablest that Monk or Wellington ever penned ; granting to a fallen foe terms of surrender so honorable and so humane that the world wondered ; making for himself a name as well known to European courts as that of Fred- eric the Great, or Moltke. " He is one of the few men born to command. Cool, sagacious, clear-headed ; his few words, and those right to the ])oint, brought him to the front everywhere. From the moment he first apjDcared in the war, his views differed fr(jm those of all other generals. Halleck reproved him, and telegram after telegram followed him from the War Hepartment, censuring him for his mode of doing things. Committees, generals and secretaries opposed his plans. AS PRESIDENT. 207 But self-reliant and defiant, lie pursued his own course. During the whole campaign, he called but one council oi war. In that council every officer but one opposed his plan. He carried out his own views, and won. His famous expression, 'I shall fight it out on this line,' was drawn out in consequence of an attempt in high quarters to make him change his j^lans. He was interfered with on every side. More than once he came up from his cam]) to protest against the perpetual annoyance. Once he said to Mr. Lincoln, 'If the oj^inion of these civil and military gentlemen is of so much importance, why did you not follow their advice before you called meV " That Grant has marked executive ability is proved by the fact that he is an able general. The elements that make a great general, make a great ruler. An army is a state, and a man who can rule that well, can rule a nation well. The history of military men in all ages proves this The great captains of the Old World have been the mightiest rulers. The most po2:>ular Presidents, from Washington to Grant, have been military Presidents. A thousand men can lead a column, make a brilliant dash, fight a battle, and win a victory. Not ten men out of that thousand can plan a campaign, move half a million Crf men, cover an area of a thousand miles, and make no mistake in a single movement. We had brilliant men, patriotic men, earnest men, but all were failures till Grant appeared, for none of them could plan a campaign. As Grant conducted his army, so he did his administration. Whether people liked it or not, in the Cabinet as in the field. Grant carried out his own plans. He was the head of the nation, as Washington was. Everywhere he took the initiatory steps, and assumed the responsibility. When he presented a matter to the Cabinet, he did so ^08 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. with his own views, saying, ' Gentlemen, I propose to do so and so.' "On the Black Friday, when unscrupulous men came near ruining the whole country. General Grant walked quietly into the Treasury Buildino-, and gave a simple order, and moved on the conspirators, as his custom is. His courage and patriotism were tried during the short period he held the portfolio of the War Department. While lieutenant-general, a United States Senator rode with General Grant to New York. The Senator found the General of the army as familiar with finance as if he had made it the study of his life. He sketched a plan by which the great debt of our country could be managed, gradually reduced, and the business of the country not be harmed. That plan, hastily developed on the iron path- way, has been persistently adhered to, as the General would adhere to the plan of his campaign. " The self-reliance and individuality of Grant are among his marked characteristics. He has a plan in all that he does, and adheres to it with sullen obstinacy. When his plans for the campaign were completed, he presented them to the President. They included Sher- man's famous march to the sea. Grant was to remain in the Wilderness, keeping Lee busy. ' Do you understand the plan, Mr. President ? ' said the commanding general. 'Perfectly. You are to stay here and hold the legs of the "Kebellion, while Sherman comes through to skin 'em.' When his vigorous campaign began to open in the West, Sherman offered his sword, and told Grant that he would not raise the question of rank. Grant's orders to St. Louis were not obeyed, and he went down to see what was the matter. Halleck reproved him. ' Pemove me at once, if I don't obey orders,' was the response. " His perfect knowledge of men is another trait of A8 rit ESI DENT. 209 Grant's character. He seldom makes a mistake. Meade was a2Jpointed at his personal solicitation, and the praise that he bestowed upon that general and other associates in armies, was unstinted and manly. While he was in the Wilderness, an official of the War Department came down and spent some time in the camp. Grant took his measure at once, for he seemed to understand war better than the General. When this man applied for az" important commission under the government. Grant refused the appointment, and has been heartily hated by that gentleman ever since. " He is a thoroughly domestic man. His quiet, unos- tentatious style of life is in harmony with the genius of the great country over which he rules. At Washington, all the time not required by public service is spent in the bosom of his family. After office hours, the Presidei?t can be found in his elegant parlors, surrounded by his household. Mrs. Grant knows — what a great many wives do not know, but would be glad to know — where her husband spends his evenings. At Long Branch the Presidential cottage, unpretentious but attractive, is two miles away from the hotels. He is away from the noise, turmoil, and confusion of the public. Any one who wishes to make the President a social call, will find him at home any time after the drive is over. No letters of introduction are needed, for the President is accessible to every one. All who call will find him a quiet, genial, intelligent, unostentatious gentleman; a man of very decided opinions on matters and things in general, and quite able to express them when he desires so to do. His JDcrsonal recreations and pleasures are of his own type, and he knows how to enjoy them. He worships in the Methodist Church, and though not a communicant, he is an official member of the Church. He usually drives a 210 LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. pair of spanking bays in a high Englisli carriage, known as a dao-cart. He cakes his seat in church without parade, hstens with sharp attention, keeping his keen eyes on the preacher, seldom changing his position through the service." Let us end his civil career with the advice he gave the nation when he took leave of it. In his message he urged : 1st. That the States should be required to furnish good common school education to all, and that the attendance of children should be compulsory. 2d. No sectarian tenets should be taught in any school, and, after 1890, all persons that cannot read and write shall cease to be voters. 3d. Church and State should be declared forever sepa- rate and distinct, while perfect freedom should be secured to all sects. 4th. Laws should be enacted to return to sound cur- rency. Much is embraced in these few short sentences — they furnish the very foundation of a firm and prosperous state, and should be engraved on the heart of a nation. The Roman Senate when it wished to do honor to one of the benefactors of the nation, voted that he " de- serves well of his country.''^ It is high praise, and no man of any party could refuse to indorse this vote for General Grant. CHAPTER XIII. GENERAL GRANT LEAVES PHILADELPHIA ACROSS THE OCEAN WELCOME TO ENGLAND LIVERPOOL MANCHESTER LONDON PIERREPONT GIVES A RECEPTION THE FREEDOM OF THE CITY OF LONDON RECEPTION BY THE CORPORATION A VISIT TO THE QUEEN OFF FOR BELGIUM. On the 17th of May, 1877, ex-President Grant, with his wife and son Jesse, sailed for Europe, from Phila- delphia, in the American line steamship Indiana. His departure was made the occasion of a great partii^g demonstration, in which all classes of the community seemed to have taken a hearty and enthusiastic share. AMERICAN LINE STEAMER INDIANA. The steamer Twilight carried the ex-President, the late members of his Cabinet, with other distinguished persons, and the invited guests from this city, to the number altogether of about five hundred persons. The United States revenue cutter Hamilton bore Mrs. Grant, under the care of Mr. Cliilds, and a few other leading citizens of (211) 812 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Philadelphia. Both steamers accompanied the "Indiana'* down the river as far as Newcastle, Del., some thirty miles from the city, where, with many " God speeds," and much cheering^ and blowing of steam-whistles, the honored guest and his family were, at half-past three, bid farev/eli and transferred to the steamer which was to carry them across the ocean. Before this occurred, however, a very interesting ceremony took place on board the " Twilight." Friends who had come to bid farewell to the General gathered in the ladies' cabin, where a private table had been spread. After having partaken of the refreshments, Mayor Stokley arose and offered as a toast '' The honored guest of to-day," and in a brief speech referred to the fact that their guest was about to depart on a long jour- ney. To this General Grant briefly responded. The reply was received with cheers. Shortly after this the General was transferred to the " Indiana," last good-byes were said and the steamer proceeded on her way to Eng- land. Previous to their departure a telegram was re- ceived from President Hayes and wife conveying to the General and Mrs. Grant their wishes for a prosperous journey and a safe return. To this the following reply was sent : j Steamer " Twilight," Delaware River. 1 May 17th, 11a. m. President Hayes, Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C. : Mrs. Grant joins me in thanks to you and Mrs. Hayes for your kind wishes in your message received on board this boat after pusliing out from the wliarf. We unite in returning our cordial greetings and in expressing our best wishes for your health, happi- ness and success in your most responsible position. Hoping to return to my country to find it prosperous in business and with cordial feelings renewed between all sections, I am very truly yours, U. S. Grant. Although the General was very free in his conversation j TOUR AR0U:ND the world. 218 there were certain subjects wliicli lie persistently avoided. One of these was American politics. As they drew near Queenstown, a heavy north-north- west gale, which had been predicted, met the steamer. ARRIVAL OF THE INDIANA AT QUEENSTOWN. which caused the sea to run very high. A deputation from Cork came alongside the Indiana in a steam-tug. Grant at that moment was leaning over the taffrail, quietly smoking his cigar ; upon his head he wore a plain black silk hat. When the deputation saw him, they gave him three rousing Irish cheers. They offered him the hospitalities of Queenstown, remarking that every village and hamlet in Ireland had resounded with the praises of his name, and would welcome him with all the warmth and candor characteristic of the Irish people. A little ex tempore reception was held in the captain's cabin, when the ex-President replied to the citizens of Queenstown, regretting that he could not then avail him- self of their hospitality, but promising to return to OJ4 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Ireland within a short time. His letters and cable dispatches were then delivered to him, the deputation withdrew, and the Indiana proceeded to Liver230ol; hearty cheers being exchanged between the two vessels as long as they were w^ithin hearing distance. There was a fair yachting breeze all the way uj) the Channel, the sun emerging occasionally and permitting a clear view of the Welsh coast. The Indiana reached Liverpool at half-past two, p. m., gaily dressed all over with flags. In honor of the arrival of the distinguished American, all the shipping in the Liverpool docks also exhibited a jDrofuse display of bunting, the flags of all nations waving along the seven miles of water-front, presenting a magnificent coup cFoeiL General Badeau, the United States Consul-General at London ; the Vice-Consul at Liverpool, representing Mr. Fairchild, and a number of prominent London and Liverpool merchants, doing business with the United States, went out in three tenders and met the steamer a short distance down the Mersey. As the Indiana neared the docks, General Grant was seen standing on the bridge with the captain, acknowledging the cheers of the immense crowds which lined the water-front and every pier and vessel along the river. General Grant and friends left the steamer in the tug, on which were the consuls and a few intimate friends. The Mayor of Liver]30ol, members of Common Council, a deputation of merchants, surrounded by an immense throng of people of both sexes, anxious to see the "great Yankee general," awaited the arrival of the tenders at tlie landing stage. As General Badeau's boat ran along- side the Custom House wharf, a tremendous, deafening clieer went up. The weather was truly delightful. A britrht sunshine brightened the appearance of the thous- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 215 ands of many-colored flags, and the smootli water in the river reflected the beaming rays. General Grant landed with Madame Badeau leaning on his arm, Mrs. Grant following with General Badean and her son, forming a most interesting group. As the party stepped on to the wharf, a cordon of police formed around them and the Mayor and Councilmen, as the thousands of people had begun to crush and crowd in SCENE ON THE MERSEY NEAR LIVERPOOL. their eagerness to get a sight of the visitors. Now the cheering from the crowd on shore was taken up by the passengers of the Indiana, who thus bade adieu to their famous fellow j)assenger. A speech welcoming the distinguished visitor was read by the Mayor, to which the General brietiy replied, after ivhich the official entertainment was carried out. 14 • 216 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The reception of General Grant in England was not | unlike the ovations which monarchs receive from other " nations. Everything and everybody seemed to be in the best possible spirits. There was nothing to mar the grandeur of the scene. General Grant w^as the hero of the hour, and every one seemed determined to make the visit one of international importance. The press were unanimous in sounding his praise. His career as a soldier and statesman was reviewed, and the record pro- nounced perfect. One of them declared that he was "worthy of every possible attention. His name is so closely interwoven with recent events in the history of the United States, that not only in America, but through- out Europe, he is entitled to respectful treatment in a degree which it is the lot of but very few to command. It urges, therefore, free and generous receptions every- where." When the Aldermen at Queenstown wished to present him with an address, some opposed the idea for the reason that Grant had declined to receive the address of the Irish nation. This act upon the part of General Grant provoked the ire of some of the members of the Catholic Church at that point ; and on the Sunday following his arrival, a parish priest preached a sermon against him because he had shown himself the persistent enemy of the Catholic Church. This solitary instance of bigotry which has been unduly magnified, would not in the least have interfered with the popular demonstration had he landed,, and a corporation address would have been presented. On the 30th of May, General Grant, accompanied by his wife, Mrs. Fairchild, General Badeau, Mr. Galloway, tlie American Consular Commissioner, and Mr. Crane, United States Consul at Manchester, left Liverpool en route for Manchester. As they passed along, immense TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2X7 crowds gathered at every station and loudly cheered them. All the stations were beautifully decorated, the American flag being everywhere prominent. At eleven o'clock they reached Manchester. They were received by the Mayor and Aldermen, and a very large assemblage of citizens, who manifested their enthu- siasm by continued cheering. Accompanied by these dignitaries, General Grant visited the Victories which have made Manchester famous, the new Town Assizes Court and the Royal Exchange. At the new Town *Hall the distinguished visitor was received by the Dean of Manchester, Mr. Birley, M. P. ; Jacob Bright, and the Mayors of Talford and Wigan. The address of the Mayor and Corporation was presented in the drawing-room. A congratulatory address was de- livered by Sir Joseph Heron. After General Grant had responded, lunch was served in the large banquet hall. On the following day the General departed for London, stopping at Leicester and Bedford on the way. At the terminus of the Midland Railway the travellers were given another enthusiastic welcome. They were met at this point by Minister Pierrepont, on behalf of the United States, and Lord Vernon. The entrance of the station was thronged with huge crowds which cheered loudly. There was no time for speech-making. General and Mrs. Grant and General Badeau entered the carriage of Mr. Pierrepont, and were driven thence to the residence of the American minister. On the 2d of June the General paid a visit to the Prince of Wales, and was invited to visit Epsom in com- pany with the heir-apparent. The invitation was ac- cepted, and his royal host discharged his duty as enter- tainer in a truly royal style. The visit was not a long one, but it v/as rich in pleasant entertainment. 21 S LIFE OF GENERAL GEANT. On the evening of the 5th of June a grand reception was given by Hon. Edward Pierrei3ont, United States Minister to the Court of St. James. It was a magnificent afiair, and was in every way a grand success. Three days Later a visit was paid to the agricultural exhibition at Bath. Here he met with a cordial recep- tion. After this he dined with the Duke of Devonshire, at whose table he met about fifty members of the House of Lords and otiiers. Later he was given a reception at the residence of General Badeau. The freedom of the City of London was bestowed upon. General Grant upon the loth of June. This is no com • mon honor. The greatest heroes and the jDrcud-fist mon- archs have been reckoned among the " freemeno" Georgo ni., who always expressed a supreme contempt for ordi- nary matters and mortals, had to acknowledg(? that thf. City of London could bestow a franchise more vrluabh? than all the knighthoods and baubles of the crown. Sinct^ his day hundreds of men, whose works will ever be re- garded as the gems of history — statesmen, scientists, law- yers, merchants, princes, have been recorded in the grand old book, which is prized by the Corporation of London more than all the privileges and immunities granted by the government. George Peabody, the noble and benevo-^ lent American merchant, whose name is ever uttered by the poor of the English metropolis with affectionate reverence, was made a freeman. General Garibaldi, the liberator of Italy and the father of Italian unity, received the same ])rivilege. The Shah of Persia, the Sultan of Turkey, the Czar of Russia, Prince Leopold of Belgium, Napoleon III., General Blucher and M. Thiers were also presented with the rights, privileges and immunities of the dwellers within " ye Bishopgate " and Temple Bar. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 219 It has often been asked, What is the freedom of the City of London? It is simply this — a small slip of parchment, inscribed with the name and titles of the per- son to whom it is to be presented, guarantees to the holder and his children after him, forever, the right to live and trade within the city prescribed by St. Clements in the west, Bishopgate in the east, Pentonville on the north and the shores of the Thames on the south, without having to pay a tax on the goods as they are brought through the gates. It exempts them from naval and military service and toils and duties throughout the United Kingdom. It insures to his children the care of the Chamberlain, who, in case they are left orphans, takes charge of their property and administers it in their interest until they arrive at years of maturity. The parchment bears the seal and signature of the Lord Mayor and Chamberlain and is generally ornamented with libbon, and illuminated. It is always enclosed in a long, thin gold box, and is intended, of course, as an heirloom. When the Corporation have decided to confer the parchment upon any distinguished individual, he is noti- fied in the old-fashioned style by the City Chamberlain, whose missive begins, "You are hereby commanded to appear in the Common Hall," &c., naming the date when the City Fathers will be present. He is met in the Common Hall by the Mayor and Councillors. The City Chamberlain informs him that the city has decided to confer upon him the privileges of a free citizen, and makes an address, usually applaudatory of the special services or merits of the individual. The recipient signs his name in the Clerk's Book, and this official and the City Chamberlain then sign their names beneath as guarantors or "compurgators," becoming, according to the rule, responsible for his acts as a citizen. The recipi- •j-o LIFE OF GENERAL GRAKT. ent tlieii steps forward, the oath is administered by the Chamberlain, who demands that he shall be in all and every resj^ect, true and loyal to the interests of the city ; he shakes hands with the Mayor, Chamberlain, Clerk and Councillors, and the gold box is committed to his care. This is the method usually adopted toward all who are not within the category of royalty. Jealous of their power and prestige, and Avith the view of checking the arrogance of former kings and queens, the Corporation of London would not allow the crowned heads to pass beneath Temple Bar without permission. Whenever the royalty desired to enter the city the "gra- ciousness" came from the Lord Mayor. He would meet majesty with the keys of the city in his hand, and when he had unlocked the gates, in imagination, he led the way into town. Thus in presenting the freedom of the city to monarchs the Lord Mayor meets them in state at Temple Bar. The royal cortege, with an escort of the Horse Guards, usually leaves Buckingham Palace, passes into Trafalgar square, thence to Charing Cross, along the Strand to St. Clement's boundary, on the west side of Temple Bar. The Mayor, attended by the Chamberlain, advances to the carriage of the royal guest, makes a brief address and ofiers the keys of the city, which are simply touched and handed back. The Mayor returns to his state coach, and, preceded by a strong detatchment of police, passes down Fleet street, past Chancery lane and the principal courts to Farringdon, across Farringdon to Ludgate Hill, up Ludgate Hill to St. Paul's, passing round the cathedral to the south, thence to Cheapside, east- ward along Cheapside to King street and down King street to the Guildhall. The militia of the city and the sergeant- at-arms (mace bearer) receives the guest at the door, and he is received by llic peers and the company j^resent standing. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD 221 The reception given by the Corporation of London to Oeneral Grant was a complete success. The event excited nnusiud interest even in cynical London. The day was unusually sunny and clear, being what many of the spec- tators called " Queen's weather." At an early hour the streets in the vicinity of the Guildhall were barricaded and all traffic prohibited that might interfere with the free ar- rival and departure of carriages through King street and the Old Jewry. Traffic was suspended east to the Bank of England, the Stock Exchange, Lombard street, and King William and Moorgate streets, and west as far as St, Martin's-le-Grand and St. Paul's, As Grant alighted he was met by a deputation of Lon- don Aldermen, arrayed in their gorgeous crimson robes and with the gold chains of office glittering in the sun- light. As he passed on into the corridor a company of the City Guards and Yeomen presented arms, and the crowd again gave a loud cheer. The distinguished party were then escorted nito the library. General Grant walked in a dignified and self-possessed manner toward the Lord Mayor's chair and took a seat to the left of the dais, amid the most cordial cheering. The City Chamberlain arose and read the formal address on behalf of the Mayor, tendering to the General the right hand of fellowship, and referring at length to the fact that he was the first President of the American Republic who had been elevated to the dignity of citizenship of the city of London. At the close of the Mayor's speech General Grant arose and l^riefly and appropriately thanked the Court for the distinguished honor, and then signed his name to the roll of honor, with the Clerk and Chamberlain as compurga- tors. The company then proceeded to the banqueting hall, where the Lord Mayor presided. 22-2 LIFE OF GENERAL GRAXT. The room was decorated with miniature English and American flags and the tables presented an interesting and artistic appearance. After the dejeuner the toastmaster, dressed in a gor- geous silk sash formed of stars and stripes, arose, and the bugle sounded. The first toast was "The Queen," the second was " The health of General Grant," which was received by the guests standing and amid great cheering. The Lord Mayor then said : " I, as Chief Magistrate of the City of London, and on the part of the Corporation, offer you as hearty a welcome as the sin- cerity of language can convey. Your presence here, as the late President of the United States, is specially gratifying to all classes of the community, and we feel that, although this is your first visit to England, it is not a stranger we greet, but a tried and honored friend. Twice occupying, as you did, the exalted position of President of the United States, and therefore one of the foremost representatives of that country, we confer honor upon ourselves by honoring you. Let me express both the hope and belief that when you take your departure you will feel that many true friends of yours personally, and also of your countrymen, have been left behind. I have the distinguished honor to propose your health. May you long live to enjoy the best of health and unqualified happiness." The gold casket, containing the freedom of the city, is in the cinque cento style, oblong, the corners mounted by American eagles and beautifully decorated. On the re- verse side is a view of the entrance to the Guildhall, and an appropriate inscription. At the ends are two figures, also in gold, finely modelled and chased, representing the city of London and the United States, and bearing their respective shields, the latter executed in rich enamel. At the corners are double columns laurel wreathed with coi-n and cotton, and on the cover a cornucopia, emblem- atic of the fertility and prosperity of the United States. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 223 The rose, shamrock and thistle are also introduced. The cover is surmounted by the arms of the city of London. The casket is supported by American eagles, modelled and chased in gold, the whole standing on a velvet plinth decorated with stars and stripes. General Grant's reply was made with deep emotion, and was simply to return his thanks for the unexpected honor paid him, and his desire to say much more for their brilliant reception than he could express. In the evening of the following day, the 18th, he was the guest of the Reform Club. The dinner itself was among the finest ever given in London, the cuisine of this association of Liberal gentle- men being celebrated all over the world, and free from all danger of its chef ever being called on to fight for his reputation in the courts, as the Napoleon of the soup tureen who composes banquets for a rival club was obliged to do of late. The table was a picture in itself, not to speak of the good things between the top and bottom of the menu. Earl Granville, as soon as the cloth was removed, pro- posed the health of Her Majesty the Queen. To this the Right Hon. WiUiam E. Foster responded in a singularly eloquent speech. In the course of his remarks he re- ferred to the great service of General Grant in the cause of human freedom. He dwelt with particular emphasis upon the importance to civilization of the cultivation of amicable relations between the two great countries, Eng- land and the United States. With great felicity he pictured the results of such a state of friendliness, and elicited continued cheering. In replying General Grant said : " I am overwhelmed with the kindness shown by Englishmen to me and ex- pressed to America." He spoke under the pressure of unwonted feeling and with unusual eloquence. 224 LIFE OF GEXERAL GRANT. The gathering was a j^leasant one, and served to cement the two countries represented more closely together. An event of great importance occurred on Tuesday, June 26th. It was nothing less than the visit of General Grant and suite to the Queen. They left London by the five P. M. from Paddington, and arrived at Windsor at thirty-five minutes past five. The train on which they left was in charge of a special superintendent, and the journey w^as through the lovely scenery of Middlesex, Surrey and Berks. The guests arrived before the expected hour, and consequently Sir Thomas Biddulph, who had been delegated to receive them, was not at the station, and therefore their arrival was unceremonious. GREEN PARK. When they arrived at the castle, they found that Her Majesty and Princess Beatrice were out riding in the Green Park, they not expecting their guests until a latei TOUll AROUND TTTE WOULD. 225 hour. General Grant did not express any disappoint- ment, but seemed desirous of utilizing the time he would have to wait by examining the grand pile of buildings, especially the first fortress of the group, which was built by William the Conquerer. After waiting a few minutes, the party entered the celebrated Lancaster Tower and repaired to the apartments where they were to await the return of the Queen. While so waiting, they amused themselves with descriptions of the lovely views from the windows of the tower. It was a view replete with beauty and variety. Away to the west was the silvery-looking Thames, winding through the level country far away. At half-past eight the Queen, surrounded by the members of the household, received the Americans in the magnifi- cent corridor at the door leading to her private apartments in the quadrangle. This quadrangle is formed by the state apartments- on the north, by the historic Round Tower on the west, and the private apartments of the Queen and of the royal household on the south and east. At the west end of the square stands the equestrian statue oi' the martyr King Charles I., who was executed in 1649. T'his was the gift of an old servant to the crown at Hamp- Um Court. The pedestal of this statue is a perfect marvel of the sculptor's art. On the north, west and south sides are fish, implements of commerce, fruits and arms in basso relievo by the celebrated Gibbon. The statue and horse have for years been the butt of carping critics. The mag- nificent 'gateway of the quadrangle, leading direct from the Long Walk, is one of the principal features, the arch- way being some twenty-four feet high, and is surmounted by machiolated embrasures and apartments for gatekeepers and attendants. At the eastern corner stands York Tower, on the west the Lancaster Tourer, which corresjDonds to the York Tower. The tower in honor of the House of 226 LIFE OF GENERAL GKANT. Lancaster was built by George IV., in 1824, from, plans by Jeffery Wyatville. The principal entrance to the state apartments is directly opposite to this gateway. A small clock house surmounts the tower at the entrance to the corridor. Above the base of the arch, under which the carriages pass to the door, is a fine, richly ornamented apartment, (lighted by tall Gothic windows, and contain- ing luxuriously canopied niches, containing figures of the Black Prince and Edward III.,) which forms a communi- cation with the front rooms, reserved for state receptions. At the northeast corner of the courtyard is the small tower, beneath which the visitors approached Her Majesty in the corridor. This double corridor is 520 feet long, and extends around the south and east sides of the quadrangle. In rough weather it is used as a promenade. Entrance to the principal rooms is had through folding doors. The ceiling, which is very lofty, is divided into large squares, the centres bearing a variety of ornamental and beautifully gilded devices, representing numerous epochs and events known to ancient, modern and biblical history. The pri- vate entrance used by the Queen is at the southeast angle, a grand structure standing about thirty feet from the face of the main building, forming a portico flanked by octan- gular towers. In a panel in the centre, between the battlements, are sculptured the royal arms in bas-relief by the renowned Kosi. Above the portico is the Oak Room, so called from the extravagant oak wainscoting and the delightful color of the walls and ceiling. This is used as a morning or breakfast room. Three immense arched windows command a view of the entire quadrangle. The entrance is truly magnificent, being triangular, with stone facing, ornamented , with canopied niches, highly sculp- tured, communicating with the corridor by a landing, above which is a huge, elaborately embellished lantern. TUUll AKOUNl) THE WORLD. 2:^7 A despatch was handed to General Grant, and was shown to the Queen while at dinner. It read thus : " YouT comrades, in annual encampment assembled at Provi- dence, E,. I., send heartiest greetings to their old commander, and desire through England's Queen to thank England for Grant's reception." Most of the ladies were dressed in black with white trimmings, owing to the deaths recently of the Queen of Holland and the Duke of Hesse Darmstadt. The Queen was attired in a similar style, but her toilet comprised a very magniticent array of diamonds. After dinner the Queen's party proceeded to the corridor for the purj)ose of enabling the visitors to examine it more closely. Here they met another party from the Octagon and a lively conversation ensued, during which Her Majesty talked with every person present. About ten o'clock Her Majesty shook hands with her lady guests, bowed to the gentlemen .and retired, followed by other members of the royal family. On the following morning General and Mrs. Grant were driven in the Great Park in a carriage usually used by the Queen at half-past ten. He, with Americauh, accompanied by Mr. Ward Hunt, First Lord of the Ad- miralty, and Colonel Gardiner, went to the station and took the train for Bishop's road (Paddington). In the evening a state concert was given at Buckingham Palace. General Grant and Mrs. Grant, the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke and Duchess of Teck, Prince Christian and the Princess Helena, the Princess Louise and the Marquis of Lome, and the Duke of Cambridge, were present. Having, for the time being, fulfilled all his engage- ments in Endand, he started for the Continent July otli. CHAPTER XIV. ARRIVAL AT BRUSSELS — LUZERNE, SWITZERLAND — GENEVA THE MER DE GLACE EDINBURGH TAY BRIDGE AT THE HOME OF SIR WALTER SCOTT — GLASGOW BRIGHTON — PARIS " PALAIS d' INDUSTRIE "' m'mAHON GIVES A DINNER — GRANT AT THE TOMB OF THIERS — THE MACKEY DINNER AND RECEPTION. General Grant and his companions readied Brussels, the capital of Belgium, at about six o'clock in the evening of the 6th of July, and at once proceeded to the Bellevue Hotel. No official reception was given them, as the Gen- eral desired to travel for a time incognito. Shortly after his arrival, however, an aide-de-camp of King Leopold visited the General, bearing from his royal master an invitation to dinner, and placed at the disposal of his visitor his aides and carriage of state. In the evening following his arrival, General Grant dined with Mr. Sandford, ex-Minister of the United States. Several Belgian functionaries occuj)ied seats at the table. On the following day the ex-President and his suite visited the Hotel de Ville, where the Burgomaster did the honors of the Communal Palace. The General perused with much interest the details of the telegraph and water supply. On the 8th, General Grant was visited by King Leo- pold, which being entirely out of the usual course, is con- (2ii8) TOUR AKOUNJD THE WORLD. 2:^9 sidered as being a great honor. Later in the day, General and Mrs. Grant paid a visit to the King and Queen. A gala dinner was given at the palace in the evening, and quite a distinguished company sat down to the table. All the high officials of the State and the foreign Ministers were present. King Leopold took Mrs. Grant to dinner, and the ex-President had the honor of escorting the Queen. On the following morning all the foreign ministers in Brussels called upon the General. Throughout his stay in the Belgian capital, he was treated with the greatest distinction. On Saturday, the 14th, a grand reception was given at the Gesellschaftshaus of the Zoological Garden, the Chief Burgomaster joresenting the guests. A grand con- cert was afterwards given, which was attended by several thousands of persons. Stassy's famous band and the musicians of the Thirteenth Hussars were engaged for the occasion. The next day General Grant and his party left Frank- fort for Lucerne, Switzerland. A brief stop was made at this point, and then they passed on to Interlaken. The scenery at this point is exceedingly beautiful, and General Grant made several excursions into the surrounding country for the purpose of beholding its splendor. On the 24th the party arrived at Berne, and on the following day were received by the President of the Swiss Confederation. On the 27th they proceeded to Geneva to attend the laying of the corner stone of a new American Protestant Church in that city. Large crowds were pre- sent and hundreds of American flags were displayed from the windows of citizens' houses. On Monday, the 30th, General Grant was received by the President of the Cantonal Council of Geneva, and in- 230 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. sjDected the Town Hall, where the Joint High Commission sat during the arbitration of the Alabama claims. The General expressed his gratification at the happy visit to a spot consecrated by the amicable settlement of difficulties between two powerful nations. He said he was especially glad that the adjustment of these international difficulties occurred in a republic. On Tuesday the General went to Chamouni. On his departure from Geneva, a salute of artillery was fired in his honor, and the city was illuminated. At Pierre Pointue, on Mont Blanc, a number of Swiss bands gave him a grand serenade, and on Wednesday he visited the Mer de Glace and Montanvert. The Mer de Glace seems to be the gorgeous result of three great glaciers, all discharging their frozen contents into one immense basin. The three are the Glacier du Lechand, from the Jorasses ; the Glacier du Tacul, whose long, unbroken surface seems to fall from the summit of Mont Blanc ; and the Glacier du Talefre, which is a suc- cession of beautiful Avhite pyramids that descend from the sparkling heights around. The Tacul, from its line of descent and great breadth, is the most important of the three, and gives the others a supplemental apjDcarance, when viewed apart. It is after they have completely united, however, that the grandeur may have fairly said to have begun. The point of union, from the mighty force of the ojiposite powers, each pressing against the other, causes a desolate display of confusion — an immense caldron of ice, in which huge masses of rock are split and scattered about like grains of coffee in a hand-mill. When General Grant left Geneva, he departed by way of Simplon for the north Italian lakes. A brief stay in this picturesque region, and he and his party returned by way of Splugen Pass to Bagatz, at which latter point he TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 231 met his brother-in-law, M. J. Cramer, American Minister to Denmark. A few days spent here, and he departed for Palanza, on Lake Maggiore, where he arrived Sunday, August 5th. A few days later he visited Bellagio, where a grand fete was given in his honor. Several American residents in Rome sent congratulations to the ex-Presi- dent. The evening following his arrival he was serenaded at his hotel, after which a concert was given in his honor, followed by a display of fireworks. Addresses were made by the Mayor and an officer who had served under General Garibaldi. General Grant in his reply referred to the exceeding hospitality he had received, praised the general •conduct of the people so far as he had seen them, expressed his dehght at the grand and lovely scenes that had met his eye at every turn since he had crossed the Alps, and <;oncluded by saying : " There is one Italian whose hand I wish especially to shake, a^nd that man is General Gari- baldi." This allusion was greeted with great applause. After enjoying several days' visit, General Grant and his party set out on their return to Edinburgh. A special Pullman car was chartered for the purpose, and was placed in charge of Mr. Roberts, the Pullman agent in London. All along the route great enthusiasm was manifested. The reception given to General Grant as each station was reached was whole-souled and fully-meant hospitality. It seemed as though the people knew him perfectly — his face as well as his history — for they recognized him every- where and demanded as much handshaking as could be ■done in the limited time allowed by the train time. Cheers and hurrahs always speeded him on his way. Soon after their arrival in Edinburgh, the freedom of the city was presented to General Grant by Lord Provost Sir James Fanshaw, in Free Assembly Hall. It was a .grand affair, not only in fact but in its significance. It 15 232 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. was hearty and whole-souled. Everything of the grandeur that surrounded the scene was meant. It was rather amusing to note, however, that General Grant did not give them a chance to speak. Eighteen hundred people, the highest toned of Edinburgh, were there — no boys or girls, but the heads of families — with tickets of admission sent to them out of six thousand apiDlications. The city digni- taries in robes, the soldiers in kilts, the insigna of office dotting the place, and the gravity of the ceremony re- minded one of the Queen's visit to the House of Lords. That speeches were, as we say, *' Fired off," till, with a wave of the hand, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh deliv- ered the silver casket — big enough for a sarcophagus — to A FORTIFICATION NEAR EDIiNBURGII the " Soldier, President, fellow Scot." Then came cheers, and the collision of applauding hands shook the Gothic structure from base to roof. TOUR AROUND THE WORL]:). 233 In reply to the Lord Provost's speed), General Grant spoke just three-quarters of a minute. Then it was sud- denly discovered that the ceremony of half an hour was finished, and a dozen brawny Scots of the first families in the realm went home with a dozen written or thought-out speeches unspoken. Said a disappointed Scot : " He made no speech." " Nau, mon, but he kippit a deal o' thinkin'." Then came shaking of hands, and the Gen- eral had to reach for them in every direction. One man — it was so funny, and the General was puzzling over the meaning afterwards — said : " Gineral, I'm glod to see ye. I'm a Scotchman, but me fayther and mither are baith bir- ried in America." Several such strange episodes occurred. After this reception General Grant visited the famous Tay bridge, then nearing completion. He also visited the training ship for boys, which was moored near the bridge. Dundee, Melrose and Abbotsford came in for visits also, the General and his companions receiving marked attention and honor everywhere. On the loth of September, 1877, General Grant was honored with the freedom of the city of Glasgow, The parchment was contained in a gold casket. The cere- mony was witnessed by a large crowd, and the General was enthusiastically cheered. A banquet in his honor was given in the evening, but was of a private character. A few days later he paid a visit to Brighton, and was the guest of Commodore Ashbury, the well-known yacht- man. After an interesting visit he returned to London and began preparation for his departure for Paris. On the 24th of October, accompanied by his wife and son, General Grant left London for Paris. On the arrival of the party at the railway station in Charing Cross, to take the train for Folkestone, he was greeted by a large crowd cf Americans and Englishmen, who gave 234 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. him {I liearty cheer as he stepped out of his carriage. Sir Edward Watkin, the Chairman of the Southeastern Rail- way Company, w^as in attendance, and a special train was in waiting to convey the distinguished party. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. The large space in front of the hotel and station ex- tending through the gates in the direction of Trafalgar square was filled with vehicles and j^edestrians. After considerable hand shaking in the waiting room and lively greetings on the platform Sir Edward Watkin and his guests boarded the train, wdiich moved off precisely at ten o'clock. After a pleasant run of one hour and forty-five min- utes the train arrived at Folkstone. General Grant was met by the Mayor of the town, accompanied by members of the Common Cauncil. About two thousand of the in- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 235 habitants of the old Kentish town welcomed tlie ex-Presi- dent with loud cheers. This crowd lined the wharves and raised cheer after cheer as he descended from the train. The General at once went on board the special yacht Victoria, accompanied by the New Yorh Herald corres- pondent, Sergeant Gazelee and one or two other officials, these being the only guests. As the trim looking yacht with the American flag flying at the fore, left the chalk cliffs of Old England, the General stood upon the bridge and waved his hat responsive to the cheers and adieux from the shore. The sea w^as calm, with only a gentle swell, and a flne summer yachting breeze prevailed. The General paced the deck, enjoying his cigar and studying the interesting points and scenery along the majestic cliff's on the south- eastern coast, where William the Conqueror landed and fought the battle of Hastings. On nearing the French coast he beheld the sunny hills and shores of the memor- able site of Napoleon's Boulogne camp, wdiere the Austerlitz army so long prepared for the invasion of England. The Victoria arrived at the Boulogne wharf at about two o'clock. A large crowd of Frenchmen, wdio had been advised of the arrival of the grand guerrier Anur- icain, was in attendance and received the guests with a hearty greeting. On entering the special train the sub- l.-^refect of the Department met and was introduced to the (xeneral. In the name of the Marshal-President and of the French people, he welcomed him to the shores of France. The General expressed his warm acknowledgments, saying he had long cherished the wish to visit France, and he was delighted with the present opportunity. M. Hoguet-Grandsire, the Senator representing the Depart- ment of the Pas de Calais, also bade him welcome in a brief address, full of sympathy and kindly feeling. 236 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. A long conversation now ensued between General Grant and the Senator, the latter speaking at considerable length on the curious and interesting phases of French politics. General Grant listened attentively, but making no response beyond asking how the dej^artment had voted in the late elections. After a long delay, somewhat in contrast to the j)rompt- ness of the English railroads, the trains started for Paris. On the way the General studied closely the scenery of the lovely country along the route, noted the principal indus- trial sections and especially observed the wonderful agri- cultural resources of the country. General Grant spoke a great deal about the financial policy at home, declaring emj^hatically on the silver question, saying he was bitterly oj^posed to the demone- tization scheme, which was only another phase of repu- diation. He next talked about the war, the relations of the United States with Mexico, and St. Domingo. He said his reception in England had been unvarying in warmth, and as to the hospitality of the people there, nothing could be more kind, considerate and gracious. Everywhere he had experienced, both in official and pri- vate circles, courtesy and respect. At Amiens General Grant quietly partook of a dish of consoinme. As the train neared Paris, the moon rose, and the General curiously studied the prominent features of the great French capital. They reached the station at a quarter to eight o'clock. Generals Noyes and Torbert entered the car, accompanied by the Marquis d'Abzac, first aide-de-camp of the Marshal-President, the official wliose duty it was to introduce ambassadors. In the name of the President of the French Republic the aide-de-camp tendered General Grant a cordial wel- come. In rei)ly the General thanked the Marshal, saving TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 237 he anticipated great pleasure and interest from his visit to Prance. Generals Noyes and Torbert greeted him warm- ly. The party had borne the journey splendidly, none of them showing the least fatigue. Among the Americans awaiting the arrival of General Grant at the station in the company of the Minister were General Meredith Head, from Greece ; ex-Minister Part- ridge, Admiral Worden, the bankers Seligman, Winthrop and Dr. Johnson, Dr. Warren and the representatives of the leading New York journals. A richly carpeted salon was prepared at the station for the reception of the distinguished party. The ladies of the party, conducted by General Torbert, passed through this salon on their way to the carriages. A splendid bou- quet was presented to Mrs. Grant by a French journalist on the way. General Grant followed, leaning on the arm of Minister Noyes. As soon as he appeared in the crowded salon several rounds of hearty cheers were given and a number of people were presented to him. The party then entered carriages, in company with General Noyes and the Marshal's aid-de-camp and intro- ducer of ambassadors. They drove to the Hotel Bristol, where a handsome suite of rooms had been engaged for them. After a quiet dinner General Grant smoked a cigar and retired early. In anticipation of this visit. Marshal McMahon had delayed appointing the time for a grand dinner at the Elysee. The morning of the 25th opened dismally. Rain fell in torrents, and there seemed no prospect of cessation. During the morning General Grant called upon his bank- ers, Messrs. Drexel, Harjes & Co., 31 Boulevard Hauss- mann. Upon his return a multitude of visitors, including diplomatists, ambassadors and Americans, began to arrive .'38 TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 239 and continued to come until noon. The most eminent men of France were among the callers. At two o'clock General Grant, Mrs. Grant and Jesse Grant, with Minister Xoyes and the Secretary of Legation, drove to the Elysee through a pouring rain. President McMahon, the Duchess of Magenta and the Duke Decazes received the General most cordially. The Duchess did everything in her power to render the occasion agreeable. General Grant wore plain evening dress, calling upon the official head of the people simply as any American citizen, properly intro- duced, might. President McMahon said that he was truly glad to welcome so eminent a soldier and citizen to France. In brief, the ex-President of the United States replied that the opportunity of expressing to the Chief Magistrate of France, the friendly sentiments entertained throughout the length and breadth of America toward the French people was equally pleasing to him. The in- terview was entirely informal and exceedingly cordial. President McMahon extended and General Grant accepted an invitation to dine at the Elysee, on Thursday, when the party re-entered their carriage and reached the Hotel Bristol about three. At four o'clock the committee of resident Americans, composed of Consul General Torbet, Dr. T. W. Evans, bankers Seligman, Munroe and Winthroy, Dr. Johnson, Mr. John J. Kyan and the Pev. Dr. Hitchcock called to invite General Grant and family to a grand banquet in his honor by the American residents of Paris, upon any date that the General might see fit to appoint. General Grant named Thursday, November 6, thanking the committee for the honor conferred upon him by his own countrymen in a foreign land. Much agreeable conversation followed. In the evening General Grant accomjDauied by a personal friend took a long walk around the Tuileries, Palais Koyal, Place de la Concord, and the boulevards for two hours. 240 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. On the next day he visited the studio of Mr. Healy, the American artist, and gave a sitting for a portrait. He afterwards strolled about Montmartre and climbed the hill, which affords a fine view of Paris, and the General expressed his admiration of the magnificent scene. After enjoying himself for some hours, he returned to his hotel, and in the evening was honored by visits from several dis- tinguished persons. Among the visitors were the Comte de Paris, head of the Orleans family, and the Duchess of Magenta, wife of the Marshal-President of the Republic. Among the many fetes given in honor of General and Mrs. Grant, in Paris, the most brilliant was the official banquet and reception given them by the United States minister Noyes. The banquet was a superb effort of Parisian culinary skill, which can work such gastronomic wonders when given carte blanche, and when there is a cellar of Monte Christo to draw upon. It was regretted on every hand that Marshal McMahon was not present at dinner. He had been invited but declined on the ground of having recently refused to be present at several diplo- matic dinners, particularly that given by the Russian Ambassador. He promised, however, to attend the recep- tion in the evening. Several representatives of the French press called upon him, but found him very reticent. He declined to express an opinion concerning the political situation in America, but stated that his first impression of France was, that it wore a prosperous, well-ordered and happy aspect. The banquet passed off without any special incident worthy of note. That charming flow of polite and witty or at least pleasantly pointed conversation which character- izes French dinners kept time to the melody of the repast itself There was no English reserve to be thawed. The TOUR AEOUXD THE WORLD. 241 French and Americans fraternize without difficulty, and hence they make the best neighbors around the snowy damask. At about nine o'clock the general reception began. A heavy rain had been falling all the afternoon and evening, the meteoric visitation being a remnant of the storm which had been previously predicted. It of course had no deter- rent effect on the invited, although it gave a dreariness to the streets without, which, out of the selfishness of human nature, imparted an additional air of warmth to the spa- cious and splendid apartments of General Noyes. It was not long before the salons were filled with guests. Out in the rain a long line of carriages extended far up the Avenue Josephine toward the Arc de Triomphe. The police arrangements were, as usual in Paris, and above all where the Prefect dines and the Marshal-President visits, perfect. The guests were received by General Grant, Mrs. Grant and their son, General and Mrs. Noyes, Con- sul General Torbert and Secretary Vignaux making the introductions. Mrs. Grant was dressed in a costume of heavy white satin, Mrs. Noyes appearing in a similar dress. General Grant and Minister Noyes wore plain evening dress, Gen- -eral Torbert, however, ajipearing in the uniform of a major general. The rooms as the guests arrived became perfect gardens of lively colors. Brilliant uniforms, diplo- matic orders and decorations mingling with the sheen of silks and satins made up a wonderful picture. Marshal McMahon arrived early. He wore a plain evening dress with the ribbon of the Legion and a breast covered with orders. He seemed in excellent health and spirits, not showing the slightest trace of the long parlia- mentary struggle he had been engaged in. The Marshal stood for nearly an hour beside General 242 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Grant, occasionally joining in the conversation and re- ceiving the congratulations of the members of the diplomatic corps and the numerous brilliantly uniformed officials who thronged the apartments. As the two renowned soldiers stood side by side, one could not help contrasting them. Marshal McMahon's ruddy, honest Celtic face, white mus- tache and white hair recalled the poet's figure of " a rose in snow." Grant, calm, massive and reserved, wore the same imperturbable face so well-known at home. McMa- hon seemed all nerve and restlessness ; Grant looked all patience and repose. The contrast in person was indeed remarkable, although each had come to the Presidency of a powerful republic over the same red road. The passion of arms commanding two great nations, had led each to choose its foremost soldier as Executive head. One hfks laid down his power at the feet of the people who conferred it, and the march of events would doubtless so serve the other. Meantime two great warlike careers touched in friendship in the parlors of General Noj^es. On the next day he visited the Palais d'Industrie and the works where the magnificent statue of " Liberty " for New York harbor was being constructed. He was received there by the Marquis de Rochambeau, the Mar- quis de Lafayette, M. Laboulaye, and other friends of America. The sculptor, M. Bartholdi, presented him with a miniature model of the statue. The General several times expressed his satisfaction at the work. Li the evening he attended the opera, where he was well received by the audience, and treated with great respect by the officials. On Thursday, November 1st, President McMahon gave a grand dinner to General Grant at the Elysee,. where many distinguished persons were present. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 243 During the day, the General visited Mnie. Thiers, and presented her with a crown of flowers for her husband's grave. A visit was also made to the Palais du Corps Legislatif. Two days later he visited the Parisian ceme- teries and spent some time in examining them. He was greatly struck with the exquisite taste displayed in deco- rating the graves, and as the day was the "Jour des Mortes," he had an opportunity of seeing the Parisians in one of their best moods. On that day business and politics are forgotten, and thousands of citizens, clad in holiday attire, throng the cemeteries to strew flowers on the graves of departed relatives and friends. The heart of many a rabid foe of "clericalism," too, is softened on that day, and heartfelt prayers are offered for the souls of the "faithful" dead ones. On the evening of November 6th, a banquet was given in honor of General Grant by the American residents of Paris. It was a splendid affair. It began at eight o'clock, and the guests, to the number of three hundred and fifty, filled seven tables. The banqueting hall was splendidly decorated a«nd illuminated. The Franco- American Union contributed a portrait of General Grant, which, adorned w' ith flags, was hung over the principal table. A band stationed in the gallery played at intervals, and vocal music was given by a chorus furnished by the director of the Italian Opera. General Grant, Minister Noyes and General Torbet were in full uniform. Toasts to the Presidents of the United States and of the French Republic were responded to by music onl}^ Then came the toast of the evening, " Our guest, General Grant," which was offered by Mr. Noyes in a brilliant speech and responded to by the General, after which, in the drawing-room, an entertainment of rare delight was enjoyed. 244 LIFE OF GENERAL GEANT. Oil the 15tli he visited the tomb of Thiers, and placed upon it a beautiful wreath of immortelles. On the 19th he visited, in company with his wife, the chocolate man- ufactory of M. Menier, the radical republican deputy from the arrondisseinent of Meaux, at Noisiel. They were entertained with a splendid lunch at the chateau. On the 21st he called upon Prince Oi'loff, the Russian ambassador, and passed three-quarters of an hour in con- versation with him, the prince doing the greater part of the talking. Later in the day he attended a fete, con- sisting of dinner and ball, given by Mrs. Mackey, wife of Bonanza Mackey, at her splendid mansion in Rue Tilsit. It was the great sensational event of the season, and for the time being overshadowed in importance, as far as the American colony and fashionable society were concerned, the existing political crisis. There were covers for twenty-four, and the guests were General Grant and familj^ and the members of the American Legation and Consulate and their families. There were no unofficial Americans present at the dinner. The menu was inscribed on small silver tahlettes, as in the case of the famous dinner to Senator Sharon at San Francisco. After the dinner a grand reception and ball took place, at which three hundred guests were present. Among the guests were the Marquis de Lafayette, MM. de Rochambeau and other distinguished guests. The American colony was largely represented, and the number of beautiful women was very remarkable. The hidies' costumes displayed extraordinary taste, elegance and richness. The dancing commenced early and con- tinued till four o'clock in the morning. CHAPTER XV. NAPLES young's LETTER VESUVIUS THE ROAD TO THE MOUNTAIN THE ASCENT A ROMANTIC PICNIC ON THE LAVA GLIMPSES OF SOCIAL AND POLITICAL LIFE IN NAPLES A DAY AT POMPEII THE CITY OF HANNIBAL AND CJESAR THE MUSEUM THE EXCAVATION PALERMO. General Grant and his party reached Naples on the 17th of December. Mr. Young thus describes what thej saw and what they did : We came to Naples hoping to find sunshine, but the consul tells us that there has been no -such weather for many seasons. It would be even cold in our inclement New York. I rejoice in the possession of a capacious uk- ter, which I brought into the Mediterranean against many protests, but which has been a useful companion. Poca* Naples looks especially cold. These poor souls need suik- shine, and they are almost too cold to beg. So much has been written about Naples that I may be spared a catalogue of its attractions. On entering the harbor the General and wife landed, and made a tour of the city. There was the summer palace, in which royal persons live for a few weeks every year, and whose grounds are open only by permis- sion. There is the castle of San Martin, an old monastery, now turned into a museum and a barracks. We spent a good hour in looking at its curiosities, which did not im- press us either as curious or startling. "This," said the guide, "is the picture of Mr. So-and-So, who generously gave this museum to Naples." "Well," said the General, in an aside tone, "if I had a museum like this, I would give (245) 246 LIFE OF GENEIIAI. GRANT. it to Naples, or whoever would take it." There was a beau- tiful chapel, in which the Lord is no longer worshipped, but which was a gem of elaborate decoration. There was a burial-ground of the monks, surrounded by marble pil- lars, upon which skulls were engraved. In the centre was one larger skull, grinning, and over the temples a wither- ing laurel wreath. Around this cemetery were the cloisters uuder whose arches our friends, the monks, used to read A DISTANT VIEW OF VESUVIUS. and walk and meditate, with such suggestions as the skulls would inspire . It was ghostly enough, and there was a comfort in turning from it to the balcony, a few steps off, which overh.ioked the brow of a hill, showing Naples beneath us and Yesu\'ius beyond — an overpowering picture of life and beauty and nature. We stood on the balcony and I looked down from our dizzy height, and thought how much more in consonance with true religion it was to worship God as "vve saw Him here in His majesty and glory, and not over stones and bones, and sights of evil omens. There, far above, was Vesuvius, and we were impa- TOUll AKOUNJ) TIIK WOULD. 247 tient for the ascent. It was too late when we arrived, but the General, with military promptness, gave orders for the march next morning. We stood on the deck and studied the stern old mountain, and picked out the various objects with a telescope, and did an immense amount of reading on the subject. The volcano was in a lazy mood, and not alive to the honor of a visit from the ex-President of the ITnited States, for all he deigned to give us was a lazy puff of smoke, not a spark, or a flame, or a cinder. I suj^pose the old monster is an aristocrat, and a conservative, and said : " What do I care for Presidents, or your new Pe- publics ? I have scattered my ashes over a Roman Pepub- lic. I have lighted Csesar's triumphs, and thrown my clouds over Prutus fresh from Csesar's corpse. Why should I set my forces in motion to please a party of Yankee sight- seers, even if one of them should be a famous general and ex-ruler of a Republic? I have looked upon Hannibal and Caesar, Charlemagne and Ponaparte. I have seen the rise and fall of empires. I have admonished generations who worshipped Jupiter, as I have admonished generations who worshipped the Cross. I am the home of the gods, and if you would see my power look at my base and ask of the ashes that cumber Herculaneum and Pompeii." So tJlie stubborn old monster never gave us a flash of welcome, only a smoky puff now and then to tell us that he was a monster all the time, if he only chose to manifest his awful will. So we stood upon the deck in speculation, and some of us hoped there would be an eruption, or something worth describing. The General was bent on climbing to the very summit, and looking into the crater, and with that purpose we started in the morning. We should have gone earlier, but many high people in uniforms, commanding one thing or another, had to come on board and pay their respects. It was ten before 16 248 LIFE OF GENERAL (UiANT. we were under way, the General and party in tlie advance, with our driver, whom we have called the Marquis, on the box, and Mrs. Grant's maid bringing up the rear. We drove all the way. You will understand our route wdien I remind you that the Bay of Xajiles is something like a horseshoe. On one side of the shoe is the city, on the other is Vesuvius. Therefore, to reach the mountain, we have to drive around the upper circle of the shoe. Tlic shores of tliis bay are so populous that our route seemed to be one continuous town. We only knew that we were l)assing the city limits, when the guard stopped our car- riage to ask if there was anything on which we were anxious to pay duty. As there was nothing but a very modest luncheon, we kept on, rattling through narrow, stony streets. Beggars kept us company, although from some cause or another there were not as many as we sup- posed. Perha})s it was the good government which we are told is dealing severely with beggars, or more likelv it was the weather, which, as I remarked, is very coldi and seems to have taken all ambition out of the people. Stil] we were not without attention in this way, and from streets and by-roads a woman or a man, or sometimes a blind man led by a boy, would start up and follow us with appeals for money. They were starving or their children were starving, and lest we might not understand their tongue, they would pat their mouths or their breasts to show how empty they were. For starving persons they showed great courage and endurance in following our carriage. The General had an assortment of coins, and, although w^arned in the most judicious manner against encouraging j)au2)erism, he did encourage it, and with so much success that before he w^as half way up the mountain he was a pauper himself to the extent of bor- rowing jiennies from some of his companions to keep up the demands upon his generosity. 250 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. What we observed in this long ride around the horse- shoe was that Naples was a very dirty, a very happy and a very picturesque town. We learned that the supply of rags was inexhaustible. I never knew what could be done with rags until I saw these lazzaroni. They seem to have grown rags, as a sheep grows his fleece, and yet there was no misery in their faces — happy, dirty, idle, light- eyed, skipping, sunny — you looked in vain for those terrible faces of misery and woe, which one sees so often in London. I take it, therefore, that begging is an amusement, an industry, and not a necessity — that the Naples beggar goes out to his work like any other laborer. He is not driven to it by the gaunt wolves hunger and disease. One scamp, a gray-bearded scamp, too, who followed us, was a baker, who made and sold loaves. He was standing at his counter trading when our carriage hove in sight. At once he threw down his loaves and started after us in full chase, moaning and showing his tongue and beating his breast and telling us he was starving. Well, when he received his coin he went to his store, and I presume began to naggle over his bread. That coin was clear gain. He was not a beggar, but a s[)eculator. He went into the street and made a little raise, just as brokers and merchants at home go into the ''street" and try an adventure in stocks. The Neapolitan speculator was a wiser man than his New York brother. He ran no risk. Even if he did not gain his coin the run did him good, and his zeal gave him the reputation of an active business man. I learned also on this trip to repress my appetite for maccaroni. We saw maccaroni in all forms and under all circumstances, dangling in the wind catching the dust. Give me a dish with the most suspi- cious antecedents rather than this maccaroni from Naples. In the monntime our horses begin to moderate their TOUR AROUND THE WOULD. 251 })ace, and the streets to show an angle, and horsemen sur- round our carriage and tell us in a variety of tongues that they are guides, and, if we require it, will go to the sum- mit. Women come to cabin doors and hold up bottles of white wine — the wine called Lachrymse Christi by some horrible irreverence — and ask us to stop and drink. And already the houses begin to thin, and we have fields around us and glimpses of the sea; and although the lazy volcano, with its puffs of smoke, looks as far distant as when we were on the deck of the Vandalia, miles away, we know that the ascent has begun, and that we are really climbing the sides of Mount Vesuvius. Its height varies. In 1868 it was four thousand two hundred and fiftj^-five feet, but since 1872 it has slightly diminished. ^Btna is 10,870 feet in heiglit, but its ap- pearance is not so impressive as that of Vesuvius. In the meantime we are going up steadily. The horses go slower and slower. Some of us get out and help tliem by walking part of the way and taking short cuts. 1 he few houses that we see on the roadside have evidently been built with a view to eruptions, for the roofs are made of heavy stone and cement. General Grant notes that where the lava and stones have been allowed to rest and to mingle with the soil good crops spring up, and tliere we note a flourishing bit of vineyard. Soon, how- ever, vineyards disappear, and after the vineyards the houses, except an occasional house of shelter, into which we are all invited to enter and drink of the Tears of Christ. Our convoy of horsemen, who have been fol- lowing us for a mile or two, begin to drop off. The Mar- quis has been preaching to them from the box in various languages upon their folly in wasting time, and they heed his warning. There are no beggars. It is remarked that beggars always prefer a dead level. One bright- 252 LIFE OF C;E^•^:RAL (iUAXT. eyed boy keeps at our side, a lad with about as dirty a suit of clothes and as pretty a pair of eyes as you could see even in squalid, smiling Naples. Well, there is some- thing ill the eyes, or it may be in the boyishness of their possessor, which quite wins one of the party, for when the Marquis insists that he shall join his fellow mendi- cants in the valley belov/, a gracious protection is thrown over him, and he followed us up the road. I think the patronage must have pleased him, for he gathered a hand- ful of wild flowers and presented them, and refused a coin which was offered in return ; but the refusal of this coin did not prevent the acceptance of two or three others and a good dinner included an hour or two later in the day. Still we climb the hill, going steadily up. Those of us who thought we could make the way on foot repent, for the way is steep and the road is hard. All around us is an ocean of chaos and death. There, in all forms and shapes, lie the lava streams that did their work in other days, black and cold and forbidding. You can trace the path of each eruption as distinctly as the windings of the stream from the mountain top. We are now high up on the mountain, and beneath us is the valley and the bay of Naples, with Ischia and Caj^ri, and on the other horizon a range of mountains tinged and tij^ped with snow. In one direction we see the erui^tion of 1872 ; the black lava stream bordered with green. What forms and shapes ! What fantastic, horril)le shapes the fire as- sumes in the hours of its triumph ! I can well see how Martial and Virgil, and the early poets saw in these phe- nomena the stripes and anger of the gods. Virgil describes I^nceladus trasfixed by Jove, and the mountain thrown upon him, which shakes and trembles whenever he turns his weary sides. This is the scene, the very scene of his immortal agony. There are no two forms alike ; all is TOUR A110U24D THE WOULD. i'")!} black, cold and pitiless. If avg could only see oiu living thing in tliLs mass of destruction ; l)ut all is death, all deso- lation. Here and there, where the rains have washed the clay, and the birds, perhaps, may have carried seed, the grass begins to grow ; but the whole scene is desolation. I thought of the earlier ages, when the earth was black and void, and fancied that it was just such an earth as this when Divinity looked upon it and said, " Let there be light." I thought of the end of all things, of our eailh, our fair, sweet and blooming earth, again a mass of lava, rock and ashes, life all gone out of it, rolling througli space. THE HERMITAGE. The presence of a phenomenon like this and right above us the everseething crater is in itself a solemn and beautiful sight. We all left repaid with our journey ; for by this time we had come to the journey's end, musings upon eternity and chaos did not forbid tlioughts of lunch- 254 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. eon. For the wind was cold and we were hungry. So when our illustrious captain intimated that we might seek a })lace of refuge and entertainment a light gleamed in the eyes of the Marquis, and he reined us uj3 at a hostelry called the Hermitage. This is the last resting place before we reach the ascent of the crater. Here the roads stop, and the remainder of the journey must be made on foot. Just beyond the Hermitage is a government institution known as the Observatory, a point where information for weather reports is gained. We thought when we came into these upper regions that we were in an atmosjDhere too j)ure for the beggars. We were congratulating ourselves upon this circumstance coming up the mountain side, but on descending we had a beggar or two to await us. I suj)- pose they belong to the hostehy and were simply speculating upon us like our friend, the baker, whom we had left hag- gling over his loaves far down in Naples. Some of us, the General certainly, had come this distance meaniug to climb the crater. But it was very cold, and we had delayed our departure from the ship, so that the day w^as well on. So, instead of climbing the rocks and looking into a sulphurous crater, we organized a kind of picnic in the Hermitage. The house seemed to have been an inquisition or a dungeon — the rooms were so large, the walls were so thick, there were such mysterious, narrow passages and chambers. But peoj^le who build houses under the run of Vesuvius must build for fire and flame and showers of ashes and stones, and the Hermitage could stand a severe eruption before it became untenable. A slight cracklmg fire of twigs was made on the hearth and a brazier of burning coals was brought into the room. We were some time in compre- 1 lending the brazier, but when its uses became apparent it was comforting enough. There, in quite a primitive %sh- ion, Ave had our luncheon, helping ourselves and each TOUR AROUND THE AVORLD. 255 other ill good, homely American fashion, for we were as far from the amenities of civilization as though we were in Montana. Then after luncheon we walked about, looking at the crater, where fumes were quite apparent; at the world of desolation around us, some of it centuries old, l)ut as fresh and terrible as when it burst from the world of fire beneath us. But there was still another picture — one of sublime and marvellous beauty. There beneath us, in clear, sunny air — there was Naples, queen among cities, and her villages clustering about her. Beautiful, won- drously beautiful, that panorama of hill and field and sea that rolled before us thousands of feet below ! We could count twenty villages in the plain, their white roofs massed together and spangling the green plain like gems. There were Capii and Ischia — their rugged outlines softened by the purple-golden glow of the passing day — lying at the mouth of the bay as if to guard this rich valley. There was Naples, her rags and dirt quite veiled and only her beauty to be seen. There was Misenum, where Pliny watched the destruction of Pompeii. There was Nisita, where Brutus took refuge when he fled from the murder oP Csesar. There was Sorrento, where Tasso lived. Every village has its history and associations, for these plains and islands and promontories have been for ages the seats of a brilliant and glorious civilization — a civilization which even now only shows the beauty of decay. The splendor of a Roman imperial civilization has gone from Italy. Ages of darkness and superstition and despotism have rested upon her like the ashes which cover Pompeii. Let us lioj)e that a new era is coming, which, based upon freedom and patri- otism, will far excel even that of the Caesars. These were our thoughts as we stood in the cold winds studying the magnificent seene. And thinking of the living, we thought of the dead — of the cities of the jilains which perished 256 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. 1,700 years ago. The romance that surrounds Naples only deepens the tragedy of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and we found our thoughts ever turning from the glory and majesty of all we saw to those buried cities of the plains. These were the burden of many words and thoughts as we were hurried home again — home to our graceful vessel whose lights awaited us in the harbor. Pindar's description of ^tna applies equally well to Vesuvius. " Forth from whose nitrous caverns issuing rise, Pure liquid fountains of tempestous fire, And vail in ruddy mists the noonday skies, While wrapt in smoke the eddying flames aspire ; Or gleaming through the night with hideous roar, Far o'er the red'ning main huge rocky fragments pour." On the day following the ascent of Mount Vesuvius, General Grant and family, accompanied by Mr. B. Odell Duncan, United States Consul, Commander Pobinson, of the Vandalia, Lieutenants Strong, Kush and Miller, and Engineer Baird, visited the ruins of Pompeii. Says Mr. Young : We arrived at Pompeii early, considering that we had to ride fourteen or fifteen miles, but the morning was cold enough to be grateful to our Northern habits, and there was sunshine. Our coming had been expected, and we were welcomed by a handsome young guide, who talked a form of English in a rather high key, as though w^e were all a little hard of hearing. This guide informed us that he had waited on General Sheridan when he visited Pom- peii. He was a soldier, and we learned that the guides are all soldiers, who receive duty here as a reward for me- ritorious service. There was some comfort in seeing Pom- I)eii accompanied by a soldier, and a brave one. This especial guide was intelligent, bright, and well up in all concerning Pompeii. We entered the town at once through TOUU AROUND THE WOULD. 207 a gate leading through an embankment. Although Pom- peii, so far as excavated, is as open to the air as New York, it is surrounded by an earthen mound resembling some of our railway embankments in America. Looking at it froui the outside you might imagine it an embankment, and ex- pect to see a train of cars whirling along the surface. It is only when you pass up a stone-paved slope a few paces that the truth comes upon you, and you see that you are in the City of Death. You see before you a long, narrow street, running into other narrow streets. You see quaint, curious houses in ruins. You see fragments, statues, mounds, walls. You see curiously painted walls. You see where men and women lived, and how they lived — all silent and all dead — and there comes over you that appalling story which has fascinated so many generations of men — the story of the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum. This was in the latter part of October, 79, and Pom- peii slept in peace. Ashes twenty feet deep covered the town, and it is believed that ten thousand persons perished. In 1748 the first excavations were made by the Bourbon Charles III. The villa of Diomedes was opened in 1771. It was in this villa that a group of eighteen skeletons were found. It was not until 1806, when the French took Naples, that the work was pursued with any intelligence. About one-third of the town has already been opened, and the excavation goes on under intelligent and judicious superintendence. Our first visit was to the Museum, a carefully arranged museum. Here you may see windows and doors as they came from the ruins. There are also casts of eight human bodies, the faces and forms expressing the agony of the last moment. One form is that of a finely formed women, her brow resting upon her arm, lying in an easy attitude of repose. Some had their clothing, others scarcely a vestige 258 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. of clothing. Some were in attitudes of despair and com- bat, as though they would resist Death when he came. There were skeletons of animals and skulls. There were vases as they came from the opened chambers, rainspouts in terra cotta, helmets, bucklers and swords that belonged to the gladiators. There was bread as found in the oven, and a dish in which the meat was roasting. There was a pot in which were the remnants of a sucking pig, the skele- ton of the pig clearly traceable. There were barley and olives and all kinds of food. Almonds, pears and figs, RUINS AT POMPEII. pouches of coin, sandals, garments, rings and trinkets, amulets that were to keep off the evil eye. All was here arranged as found in the ashes of the buried city. And all was so real — so horribly real. The Italian authorities did General Grant special honor on his visit to Pompeii by directing that a house shoidd be excavated. The director TOUU AllOUNI> THE WOKJ.D. 259 of excavations led the way to the proposed work, there were the General and his party, and a group of our gallant and courteous friends from the Vandalia. The quarter selected was near the Forum. Chairs were arranged for the General, Mrs. Grant, and some of us, and there quietly, in a room that had known Pompeiian life seventeen centuries ago, we awaited the signal that was to dig up the ashes that had fallen from Vesuvius that terrible night in August. Our group was composed of the General, his wife and son ; Mr. Duncan, the American Consul in Naples ; Commander Robeson, of the Vandalia ; Lieutenants Strong, Miller an-l Kush, of the same shiji. We formed a group about the General while the director gave the workmen the signal. The spades dived into the ashes, while with eager eyes we looked on. What story would be revealed of that day of agony and death ! Perhai^s a mother, almost in the fruition of a proud mother's hopes, lying in the calm re- pose of centuries, like the figure we had seen only an hour ago, dug from these very ruins. Perhaps a miser hurry- ing with his coin only to fall in his doorway, there to rest in peace while seventeen centuries of the mighty world rolled over him, and to end at last in a museum. Perhaps a soldier fallen at his post, or a reveller stricken at the feast. All these things have been given us from Pompeii, and w^e stood watching the nimble spades and the tumbling- ashes, watching with the greedy eyes of gamblers to see what chance would send. Nothing came of any startling import. There were two or three bronze ornaments, a loaf of bread wrapped in cloth, the grain of the bread and the fibre of the cloth as clearly marked as when this pro- l)able remnant of a humble meal was put aside by the careful housewife's hands. Beyond this, and some frag- ments we could not understand, this was all that came from the excavation of Pomj^eii. CHAPTER XVI. OFF FOR MALTA SCYLLA AND CIIARYBDIS AMONG THE SCENES OF SAINT PAUL'S TRAVELS EN ROUTE FOR ALEX- ANDRIA THE MARQUIS — ALEXANDRIA HENRY M. STAN- LEY A CALL ON THE KHEDIVE IN THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS AND OF THE PYRAMIDS PLEASANT MEETING WITH OLD FRIENDS. A FEW days later tlie party sailed for Malta, belong- ing to Great Britain, where they arrived on the 28th. Says the correspondent ot" tlie party : " I arose early in the morning to see Stromboli. This island has an obliging volcano, which never pauses in its entertainment. But when we came to Stromboli, although we were near enongli to be under its shadow, there was only the rain. Captain Kobeson pointed it out to me and I fancied I saw it, but 1 am afraid it was only a cloud. If there was any danger of the sirens enchanting our Ulysses the weather saved him. All we saw of the islands was a mass in the mist. The night became angry and the day brought a heavy sea. and I could well understand the anxious look of the cap- tain when, about six in the morning, he came out of his (•al>in in his oilcloth coat and glass in hand. We were driving rapidly upon the Calabrian coasts, and there Avas a rock he desired to see. The rock had its place on the chart as the signpost sliowing the way into the Straits of Messina. But it had a far more important i)lace in our ,.260) TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 261 imagination, for it was the rock of Scylla, and the straits into which we were entering were the straits tormented by the whirlpool of Charybdis. We passed the rock of Scylla about eight in the morning. It was an ordinary rock, not very large or im- posing. As for Charybdis, if such a whirlpool existed, its turmoil is over, for we ploughed through the waves un- disturbed by its emotion. This part of our trip was through the Straits of Messina. The straits are narrow, not much wider than the Hudson opposite New York, and as we sailed through we had a fine view of one of the most beautiful prospects in Euroj)e. On one side was Sicily, on the other Calabria. We passed Messina — now a city of 70,000 people — her domes white and shining in the sun- shine. Messina has suffered from . conquerors since the days of Hannibal, from the plague and from earthquakes. It was early in 1783 that the earthquake threw down the campanile and transept of her cathedral. Passing Messina we next saw on the Italian coast the town of Reggio, now a flourishing settlement of 16,000 souls. Reggio has had its own troubles with earthquakes and in 1783 was almost destroyed. It was here that Garibaldi landed when crossed from Sicily. It was also in the hills behind Reggio — those dark brown hills that we see clearly in the morning sun — that he made his fatal fight of Aspromonte and was wounded and taken prisoner by Pallavicini in 1862, the same General Pallavicini who was so polite to General Grant the other day in Naples, when he marched his troops in review before us. Reggio, however, has a deeper interest to us than even attaches to the fame and fortunes of the illustrious Garibaldi. It is the Rhegium of the New Testament. " And landing at Syracuse," saith the Gospel, " we tarried there three days. And from thence we fetched a compass and came to Rhegium." 262 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. As we passed along, the majestic mountain of iEtna was to be seen on our right. It is a quiet volcano, or at least we could see nothing like fire or smoke ; nothing, indeed, Init a cloudless sky above it. Its crater is an immense chasm two or three miles wide, and the circumference of its base is more than a hundred miles. Tlie last demonstration of the volcano was in August, 1874. When the sun went down ^tna was still watching us. The sea was high, and our course was directly south to the famous island of Malta, where tradi- tion has it the great Apostle Paul was wrecked. Here he spent several months, teaching and working among the people, and from here started on fiis final voyage to the Eternal City. We arrived at Malta about one in the afternoon. The gale continued to be severe. We thought of the ancient tunes when Paul was thrown on the islands. You will find the story in the two last chapters of the Acts of the Apostles. How Paul was fourteen days driven up and down in Adria ; how the a2)ostle bade the centurions and soldiers be of good cheer and stand by the ship ; how the angel of God appeared to Paul, and told him to have no fear ; how the ship, with its 276 souls, was cast on the rocks ; liovr they came to a place where two seas met and " when they were escaped, then they knew the island was called Malta." You will remember also they were a barbarous people, who were kind and kindled a fire, and how the viper came out of the fire and hung upon Paul's hand. You will remember also that Paul shook the viper, which is a wise thing to do Avitli venomous beasts, and that the people were amazed because Paul did not swell and fall dead, and "sjiid he was a god," and treated him courteously and honored him with many honors, and on his departure laded him with such things as were necessary. TOUR AROUND THE AVORLD. 2G3 If there were no other historical attractions in Malta but what is thus written in the New Testament it would be well worth a visit. But Malta now, one of the strong- holds of the British Empire, one of the citadels on her Indian higliAvay, has had more than her share of the mutations of human fortune. It is supposed to have been KLINb -Vr M VLTA the Island of Ogygia, where Homer gave a home to Calypso. It fell in the hard hands of the Carthagenians. Then the Romans came and threw it into their empire. Then came the Vandals, the Goths and Arabs in fierce succession. Afterward came the unique dominion of the Knights of St. John, who came from Rhodes when the Turks pulled down the cross. In 1800 Napoleon, then on his way to Egypt, took the Island ; but in 1802 it came into the hands of the English, who have made it as strong as Gibraltar; strong enough to be regarded as impregnable. We had made fast to our anchorage and had fired the 17 ll 264 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. salute of twenty-one guns, by which a vessel of war does honor to a foreign port, when an officer reported to General Grant that the Duke of Edinburgh was coming on board. The ship next to the Vandalia was the Sultan, a noble Enslish iron-clad under the command of His Koval Highness. The General was standino; on the deck study- ing the town when the caj^tain's boat of the Sultan, with the Duke steering, whirled around the stern. His Royal Highness was received at the gang-way by Captain Robe- son. He was dressed in his uniform as captain, wearing on his breast the star of .the Garter. The General advanced and greeted the Duke, and presented the gentlemen with him, and they retired to the cabin. They remained in conversation for the best part of an hour, talking about Malta, its antiquities, its history, England, education, the Eastern question, the weather and Besika Bay. His Royal Highness said he had orders to sail, and supposed his destination was Smyrna. He had had his time at Besika Bay and did not regard the return with any en- thusiasm. He spoke of the visit of his brother-in-law, the Grand Duke Alexis, to America, and of the gratification of the family at the reception by our peoj^le. The Duke is the pattern of a sailor, and has all the ease and ofP-hand grace of his family. On taking his leave his Royal Highness asked the General and family to visit him at his palace of San Antonio and take luncheon. The j^alace of San Antonio is about four miles from the town. It is sur- rounded by orange groves and walls, and is noted as the only large garden on the island. The drive was through an uninteresting, glaring country, the perpetual glare almost dimming our eyes. When we reached the palace, the Duke and Duchess received General and ]\Irs. Grant and their son in the most gracious manner. After luncheon His Royal Highness escorted them through the orange groves. TOUR AROUXD THE WORLD. 265 At noon General Grant visited the Governor General of Malta. On leaving the General was saluted with twenty- one guns. A regiment was drawn up in front of the palace as a guard of honor. The Governor, a famous old English General, Van Straubeuzee, wore the Order of the Grand Cross of the Bath. He received the General and party at the door of the palace surrounded by his council and a group of Maltese noblemen. On the following day a verj' pleasant visit was paid to the Duke of Edinburgh's ship, the "Sultan." On Monday, the 31st, the party sailed for Alexandria. There were many temptations, writes Mr. Young, to remain in Malta. Hospitalities showered upon us. All the great ones of the place, beginning with His Royal Highness the Duke of Echnburgh, vied with one another in making our visit a jileasant one. I think if our mail had been ordered to Malta instead of Alexandria, we should have remained anyhow. At the last moment there was a disposition to stay, but the General had taken his leave and sent his cards, and he is not apt to change his mind. In the morning of the last day of the year, he pushed ashore and roamed about an hour or two through the quaint streets of the strange, old town. I have called the town Malta, but it is really named Valletta, after John de la Valette, who was Grand Master of the Order of St. John, and built the town in the middle part of the six- teenth century. The knights held Malta for nearly two hundred and fifty years, and remained until the French and then the English drove them out. The people have a peculiar dialect, based on the Arabic, with plenty of Italian, French and English thrown in. The j^revailing industry seems to be following officers and strangers around all day and begging. The town has many beautiful views, and I could see very easily how life might be toler- 266 LIFE OF GENEKAL GRANT, ated here for tlie warm, genial air. It was the last day of tlie year when we pushed out into the l)ay, and turned our prow toward the Mediterranean. There was quite a group of officers on deck surrounding the General and his party. As we neared the Sultan the band played our national airs, winding up with "Auld Lang Syne." We exchanged greetings with them, and with our comj^atriots of the IIULbLlOP AM) B\TTLE^^E^T■- AT MALTA. Gettysburg, who had gathered on the quarterdeck to say goodby. So our last remembrance of jNIalta is the music that came from the Sultan, the hurrah that came from the Gettysburg and the lowering of one solitary flag, far up the cliff, which indicated that our consular agent was on the watch and Avas bidding us good speed. Our General fell into his sea life quite readily. He seemed to welcome the sea with the rapture of a boy going home for a holiday. I can well imagine what a holiday it must be to one who has doiie in sixteen years the work TOUR AIIOUND THE WORLD. 267 imposed upon General Grant. He is not an early riser, but keeps up the American custom of a breakfast at ten. After breakfast he takes up a newspaper, if he can find one, and a cigar. My friend, Mark Twain, will be glad to know that the General read with delight and apprecia- tion his "Innocents Abroad." In Naj^les one of us dis- covered an English version of the "Nasby Papers," which was a boon. About noon, if the weather is calm, the General comes on deck and converses, or studies the sea and the scenery. Dinner comes at six o'clock, and after dinner there is talk. When the General is in the mood, or when some subject arises which interests him, he is not only a good, but a remarkably good talker. His manner is clear and terse. He narrates a story as clearly as he w^ould demonstrate a problem in geometry. His mind is singularly accurate and perspicacious. He has few, very few, resentments, and this was a surprising feature, re- membering the battles, civil and military, in which he has been engaged. I have heard him refer to most of the men, civil and military, who have flourished with him, and there is only one about whom I have seen him show feeling. But it was feeling like that of the farmer in the schoolbook who saw the viper which he had w^armed to life about to sting him, I do not mention names, because I have no wish to excite controversies, such, for in- stance, as the controversy over Sumner. I wdll culy allude to the Sumner business so far as to say that I think General Grant has been rather severely used in the matter. I have never heard General Grant speak with bitterness of Mr. Sumner. He told his story of the removal of Mr. Motley, and only told it, if I may quote his own words, when he liad been charged by the friends of Mr. Sumner with having killed Mr. Motley. It seems to me that if history is to be written both sides should be heard, and in a transaction 268 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. in which General Grant bore a conspicuous part, he is cer- tainly entitled to be heard as a witness. As I have said, I have never heard General Grant speak with bitterness of Mr. Sumner, which leads me to repeat the observation I made a moment or two ago — that he shows no resentment. I had known General Grant fairly well before I became the companion of his travels, and had formed my own opinion of his services and character. A closer relation strengthens that opinion. The impression that the General makes upon you is, that he has immense resources in re- serve. He has in eminent degree that "two o'clock in the morning courage," which Napoleon said he alone possessed among his marshals and generals. You are also impressed with his good feeling and magnanimity in speaking of comrades and rivals in the war. In some cases — especially in the cases of Sherman and Sheridan, MacPherson and Lincoln — it becomes an enthusiasm quite beautiful to wit- ness. Cadet days are a favorite theme of conversation, and after cadet life the events of the war. I wish I con VI dare to send you some of these conversations, some of the General's estimates of men and narratives of events. But for the present the very nature of my mission forbids it. Among our company is a gentleman who attends the General as a courier or secretary in foreign tongues. I call our friend "secretary" because the title is the one of his own choosing. His name is Jacques Hartog, native of Holland, educated in Paris and citizen of the world. We call him the " Marquis." The title expresses Mr. Hartog's address and accomplishments, and I am proud to publish the renown that the Vandalia mess has conferred upon him. He has an aristocratic air, and it is almost like a breeze from land — a breeze from the Sicilian shores laden with the odor of the orange blossoms — to see the Marquis c-omo to breakfast in the vrardroom, with the sea rolling TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 269 heavily, having passed a bad night. We are all fuzzy and ragged ; we have taken refuge in flannels and old clothes ; we have that uneasy feeling which verges on illness. The Marquis comes with the manner of a lord of the ante- chamber in the days of Louis Quatorze. Every hair is in its place, the curl is posed on the brow, the face is clean as a parchment, the full, brown moustache has the faintest suspicion, of brillantine, the scarf-pin is adjusted. There is not a crease in his garments. If the Marquis were a good sailor there would be no sj^ecial merit in this, but our noble friend is a bad sailor and hates the sea, every motion of the ship being a misery to him. For a nobleman in the agonies of seasickness, of a constant seasickness, to array himself as though he were about to promenade the Champs Ely sees, shows a power of self-control Avhich is worthy of admiration. ALEXANDRIA. On the 5th of January the party reached Alexandria. The writer continues: — Our reception was most enthusi- astic. The Vandalia had hardly anchored when the Governor of the district, the admiral and the generals, pachas and beys, the Consul General, Mr. Farman; the 270 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Vice-Consul, Mr. Salvage ; Judges Barringer and Morgan, and the missionaries all came on board. The reception lasted an hour, and as each officer was saluted according to his rank, and the salutes were returned, there was smoke enough in the air for a naval engagement, and w^e could ahnost fancy another battle of the Nile like that fought, only a step or two up the coast, one eventful day nearly eighty years ago. The Governor, in the name of the Khedive, welcomed General Grant to Egypt, and offered him a palace in Cairo and a special steamer up the Nile. It is Oriental etiquette to return calls as soon as possible, and accordingly in the afternoon the General, accom})anied by his son. Commander Kobeson, Chief Engineer Trillay and Lieutenant Handy, of the navy, landed in the official barge. As this was an official visit, the Vandalia manned the yards and fired twenty-one guns. These salutes were responded to by the Egyptian vessels. A guard of honor received the General at the palace, and the reception was after the manner of the Orientals. We enter a spacious chamber and are seated on a cushioned seat or divan, ac- cording to rank. The Pacha — who has a Greek face and, I presume, is a Greek — offers the company cigarettes. Then compliments are exchanged, the Pacha saymg how proud Egypt is to see the illustrious stranger, and the General answering that he anticipates great pleasure in visiting Egypt. The Pacha gives a signal, and servants enter bearing little porcelain cups about as large as an egg, in filagree cases. This is the beverage — coffee — or, as was the case with this special pacha, a hot drink spiced with cinnamon. Then the conversation continues with judi- cious pauses, the Orientals being slow in speech and our General not apt to diffuse his opinions. In about five minutes we arise and file down stairs in slow, solemn fash- ion, servants and guards saluting, and the visit is over. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 271 The General and Mrs. Grant went to dine, and in the evening we had a ball and a dinner at the house of our Vice-Consul, Mr. Salvage. This was an exceedingly bril- liant entertainment, and interesting in one respect, es23ecially because it was here that the General met my renowned friend and colleague, Henry M. Stanley, just fresh from the African wilderness. The General had heard of Stanley's being in town, and had charged me to seek him out and ask him to come on board and dine. My letter missed Stanley, and we met at the Con- sul's. Stanley sat on the right of the General, and they had a long conversation upon African matters and the practical results of the work done by our intrepid friend. The Consul General proposed the health of General Grant, and Judge Barringer proposed that of Mrs. Grant, who, by the way, was prevented by fatigue from coming. Then a toast was proposed in honor of Stanley, who made a grateful response, saying it was one of the ]3roudest moments in his life to find himself seated by our guest. Stanley looks quite gray and somewhat thinner than when I saw him in New York, just before his departure, three years ago. I gave him all the news I could remember about friends in New York and elsewhere. Next morning jNIr. Farman, our Consul-General, and myself, saw him on board the Brindisi steamer, which was to carry him to Europe — to new honors and the enjoyment of a well earned and enviable renown. The entertainment at Mr. Salvage's at an end, we retmmed on board. The next day was Sun- day. The General, accompanied by a friend, landed, meaning to stroll about the town. Walking is one of the General's occupations, and he never sees a town until he has gone ashore and lost himself His eye for topography is remarkable ; but that is a military quality, after all, and in Alexandria, one of the most huddled up and bewildering 272 LIFE OF GENERAL GiiANT. towns, he had a fine opportunity for the exercise of his skill We strolled as far as Cleopatra's Needle, which is said to be going to New York. Then there was an in- formal luncheon, as became the Sabbath, with Mr. Gibbs, the director of the telegraph. Commander Robeson and Lieutenant Commander Caldwell forming the other mem- bers of the party. The event of Monday was that we formed a group on the quarterdeck and had our photo- graphs taken, the General and family in the the centre, and around them the wardroom, steerage and warrant officers of the Vandalia. This event closed our life on the Vandalia for a month at least. It was only au revoir and not good- by, but there was just enough of the feeling of parting to give a tinge of sadness to the mass of trunks and bundles, which the sail- ors, under the orders of the Marquis, were arranging on deck. We were to do Cairo and the Nile, we were to be gone three weeks, and were to return. But the only one of the party who really wanted to leave was our noble friend, the Marquis, whose spirits have been steadily rising since he came to land and heard the rumor of the Khe- dive's hospitality. As he takes command of the baggage and directs the sailors in their handling of it, you see in his eye the enthusiasm of one born to command when in his own element. When he pushes off in the tug, trailing the luggage in a boat behind him, there is a disposition to fire a salute, but the regulations are not elastic, and the Marquis, with his important command, has only a silent adieu. We are not long in following him. We have a special train at our command, and the captain and a group of the officers are going up to attend the presentation to the Khedive. The Governor of the province, with his retinue, met the General, and at eleven the train, a special one, started. Judge Barringer and wife were of the TOUR AEOUND THE WORLD. 273 company, and the run to Cairo was made in four liours. The General studied the scenery closely and noted tlie resemblance in some portions to prairie land in Illinois. Mrs. Grant was more impressed with the poetry of the scene — with the biblical associations that cluster about this strange land. The officers formed a merry company in their compartments, Avhile the Marquis was in an advance section, holding guard over a lunch basket. The Marquis is a great admirer of the Khedive, and expresses himself earnestly in favor of a government which welcomes its guests to a palace. He takes no interest in the ruins, believing Cairo to be more interesting because of the cafes, which remind him of Paris, than the Pyramids, which he regards as entirely useless. At three o'clock we come to Cairo. There is a guard, a carpet-way, and a group of officers and civilians. The General, looking at the group, recognizes old friends. " Why," he says, " there's Loring, whom I have not seen for thirty years ; " and " There's Stone, who must have been dyeing his hair to make it so white." The cars stop and General Stone enters, present- ing the representative of the Khedive. This officer extends the welcome of His Highness, which General (jrant accepts with thanks. General Loring comes in and receives a hearty greeting from his old friend in early days and his enemy during the war. General Stone and Gen- eral Grant were at West Point, and are old friends, and their meeting is quite enthusiastic. The General asks General Loring to ride with him, while General Stone accompanies Mrs. Grant, and so we drive off to the Palace of Kassrel-Doussa — the palace placed at General Grant's disposal by the Khedive. Commander Robeson and Lieutenant Kush accept the General's invitation to reside in the palace while they are in Cairo, and the remainder of the party find homes in the hotel. 274 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The General dined quietly with his family, and next day called on the Khedive. The hour fixed for the re- ception was eleven, and a few minutes before that hour the state carriages called at the palace. The General wore a plain evening dress, and was accompanied by the following officers: — Commander H. B. Robeson, comman- ding the Vandalia; Joseph Trilley, chief engineer ; George H. Cooke, surgeon; Lieutenant E. T. Strong, Lieutenant J. W.Miller, Paymaster J. P. Loomis; G. W. Baird, en- gineer; H.L. Hoskinson, ensign; B. F. Walling and E. S. Hotchkin, midshipmen ; E. B. Freeman, engineer. Jesse B. Grant and Consul-General Farman accompanied the General. We reached the palace shortly after eleven. There was a guard of honor, and the officers of the house- hold were ranged on the stairs. The General entered and was met by His Highness, the Khedive, at the foot of the stairs. The General, his son, and Mr. Farman went into an inner room, where the ceremonies of the formal presentation took place. The officers then entered and were received by His Highness, who expressed his gratification at seeing so many representatives of the navy. This reception lasted about half an hour, the Khedive shoAving the General the pictures on his walls painted in commemoration of the opening of the Suez Canal. We then returned to the palace. We had scarcely entered when the carriage of the Khedive was announced. The General received the Khedive, who was accompanied by his Secretary for Foreign Affairs, and welcomed him in the grand saloon, where Mrs. Grant also received His Highness. The officers of the Vandalia were present, and their striking uniforms, picturesque costume of the Khedive and his attendants, and the splendid, stately decorations of the room in which they assembled, made the group imposing. In the course of this conversatioii TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 275 General Grant spoke of General Stone, now chief of staff to the Khedive. He said he had known General Stone from boyhood, and did not think he had a superior in our army ; that he was a loyal and able man, and he was pleased to see him holding so important a command. The Khedive said he was very much pleased with General Stone ; that he found him a most useful, and a most able, man, especially fitted to organize troops, and had made him a member of his jmvy council. At the close of the inter- view. General Grant escorted the Khedive to his carriage ; official calls were then made upon the two sons of the Khedive, who at once returned the calls, and so ended ouv official duties. CHAPTER XVII. CAIRO AND THE NILE LIFE ON THE RIVER DOMESTIC SCENES FRIENDS ON THE 'W^AY ASSIOUT TOMB OF THE KINGS THE HOME OF WASIP EL HAYAT GIRGEL THE LIBYAN DESERT — GRAND OLD RUINS ISIS AND OSIRIS. The Khedive, writes Mr. Young, lias placed at the dis- posal of the General one of his steam vessels, and she swings out into the stream with the American flag at the fore. We have all been in a bustle and a hurry to get away. There was the leaving the place, the massing of bundles, the command of the impedimenta. We were alert for the trip, and we had been feeding our imagina- tions with visions of Eastern life, with visions of the faded but glorious remnants of the ancient civilization. Cairo was French. The infidel had gilded and wall-papered the city of the faithful, and it was hard to realize you were in an Oriental land where everybody spoke Italian and French, and Vienna beer was among the principal articles of merchandise. But now we were really to throw behind us the tawdry French manners and customs which invaded us in our palace, and to go for days and days upon the waters of the Nile. We bought each a fez, and some of us ventured upon the luxury of an Indian hat. Others went into colored spectacles, and the marquis, a far seeing man, who had been on the Nile, and who was not in the best of spirits at leaving a palace to float for weeks between Arab villages, appeared with an astonishing umbrella. We had many friends to see us off. General Stone, Judge Batcheller and Judge Barringer, with their wives ; General Loring, and others. There were radiant mounds of flow- (276) TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 277 ers as remembrances to Mrs. Grant, and as much leave- taking as though we were bound from New York to Liver- pool. Some one makes this suggestion when the observa- tion is made that we are about to undertake a journey as long as from New York to Liverpool and return. The General sits in a corner with Stone and Lorins:, talkine: about old days in the army and making comments upon famed and illustrious names that the historian would wel- come if I could only dare to gather up crumbs of this inter- esting conversation. At noon the signal for our journey is given and farewells are spoken, and we head under full steam for the Equator. AN ORIENTAL BAZAAR. Our party .is thus composed — we have the General, his wife, and his son, Jesse. The Khedive has assigned us an officer of his household (Sami Bey), a Circassian gentle- man educated in England. Sami Bey is one of the heroes 278 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT, of our tri]^, and we soon came to like him, Moslem as he is, for his quaint, cordial, kindly ways. I suj^pose wfe should call Sami Bey the executive officer of the expedi- tion, as to him all responsibility is given. We have also with us, thanks to the kindness of the Khedive, Emile Brugsch, one of the directors of the Egyptian Museum. Mr. Brugsch is a German, brother to the chief director, who has made the antiquities of Egypt a study. Mr, Brugsch knows every tomb and column in the land. He has lived for weeks in the temples and ruins, superintend- ing excavations, copying inscriptions, deciphering hiero- glyphics, and his j^resence with us is an advantage that cannot be over-estimated, for it is given to him to point with his cane and unravel mystery after mystery of the marvels engraved on the stones and rocks, while we stand by in humble and listening wonder. ''What a blank our trip would be without Brugsch!" said the General one day, as we were coming back from a ruin — a ruin as abso- lute and meaningless as the Aztec mounds in New Mex- ico, but which our fine young friend had made as lumin- ous as a page in Herodotus. The Consul General, E. E, Farman, formerly editor of the Western Netv Yorker, is also of our party, and I have already spoken of the })leasant impression he made upon General Grant in Cairo, The General had so agreeable a time with the good boys of the Vandalia that he asked Commander Bobeson to come and bring with him as many of his of- ficers as could be spared. He was anxious to have Bobe- son, and all kinds of schemes and persuasions were in- vented to secure him. When the gracious commands of the lady of our expedition were put upon him the Com- mander paused, and I think for one whole evening he had resolved to go up the Nile. But the morning came, and it brought the cold fact that the Commander had a ship to TOUll AllOUND THE WORLD. 27r, command, and that it was his duty to command it, and the Nile was in no sense a navigable water. So Robeson gave up the Nile and sent three of his officers to accept the General's invitation — the Chief Surgeon, George H. Cooke; Lieutenant W. A. Hadden and Ensisn F. A. Wilner. EASTERN DONKEYS. Our boat is called Zinet el Boliren, or as my omniscient friend translates it, the Light of Two Rivers. It is a long, narrow steamer, with two cabins, drawing only a few feet of water, with a flat bottomed keel. The Nile is a river of sand and mud, and as the bottom is always changing you must expect to run aground every little while and to run off again. This in fact we do, and the announcement ihat we are aground makes about as much impression upon ns as if a passenger in a Broadway omnibus heard the wheel of his coach interlock with another. The Nile boats seem arranged to meet any emergency in the way of land — for this river is sprawling, eccentric, comprehensive, J8 280 LIFE OF GENERAL caLVNT. without any special channel — running one way to-day, another next day. To know the river, therefore, must be something like knowing the temper of a whimsical woman — you must court and woo her and wait upon her humors. Navigation is a constant seeking after knowledge. We have a captain in a comely uniform, with a clear cut Arab face, who stands in the middle of the boat and shouts. We have two men with poles who lean over the prow and sink their poles in the water, and now and then shout. Then at the wheel we have one, or perhaps two, steersmen, generally fine, grave, swarthy fellows, who do not sliout much, but, knowing the river's coquettish ways, do as they please, unmindful of the shouting. For an hour, for two or three hours, we hum along with an easy, trembling motion, the smooth, shining river lapping our sides, and the low, green banks falling behind us. Then we have a tremor, a sidling to one side, and the engines stop. This was so serious a business, especially to our seafaring friends, that for the first or second time they regarded it as a call to quarters or a fire alarm, but we soon became used to it, and running aground hardly interrupted the idlest conver- sation. When evening comes, our captain .picks out the best point that can be found after sunset, and runs up to the land. The crew are sent ashore with torches and hammers, posts are driven into the soft clay and we are tied to the shore. There, as if out of the earth they come, we have a group of Bedouins in their turbans, who gather on the river bank and make a bonfire of dried sugar cane or cornstalks and keep watch over us during the night. There can be no more interesting and, I am afraid, perilous experiment than to put ten human beings on a boat for three weeks and bid them enjoy themselves. I looked around the boat with a little curiosity as we came THK SK \ Sir r >tVlife«s.«-'' ^c * ~ k ^..— l en r fife:> VIEW OF THE RIVER NILE. Showing the Places Visited bv General Grant. 281 282 LIFE or GENERAL GRANT. in and began to adjust ourselves to the conditions of our trip. Tliere are two things that try friendship — getting married and traveling together. You have to dovetail each other, to make and receive compromises. Questions of coffee and tea and chocolate, of breakfast and luncheon^ of amusement and conversation, enter into travel. There is the passenger who is never quite well, the passenger whose health is a reflection upon others, the passenger who worries about the engines and the mails, the passen- ger who cannot stand the sea cooking, and compares every meal with a famous dinner he once enjoyed at Delmon- ico's. Then there is the exasperating passenger, who contradicts everybody and is ready to wager. Our little party developed none of these eccentricities. So far as th e daily and hourly rubbing together was concerned nothing came to mar our harmony. We adjusted ourselves to the General's modes of life ; and as those were of the simple^!, and most considerate character, it involved no sacrifice. On the 19th of January, the third day of our journey, we came to the town of Sioiit, or Assiout, as some call it. Upon arriving the Vice Consul and his son came on boar J and were presented to the General. Congratulations were exchanged, and we offered our friends coffee and cigars in the true Oriental style. The name of our Consul here is AVasif el Hay at.. He is a Syrian and a large landed ])r<)])rietor. He is a grave elderly person, who spoke only Arabic, but his son had been educated in Bey rout, at the mission schools, and knew English. We all drove to the town. It was over parched fields, through a country that in more favorable years would, bloom like a garden. But the Nile is bad this year, and a bad Nile is a calamity second only to a famine in Egypt. We rode into the town and through the bazaars. All the town seemed to know of our coming, for wherever we went crowds swarmed around TOUR AllOUND TiiE WORLD. 283 US, and we had to force our donkeys through masses of Arabs and Egyptians of all ages and conditions, some al- most naked — crowds crying for baksheesh or pressing arti- cles of merchandise upon us. The bazaars are narrow cov- ered ways, covered with matting or loose boards, enough TOMB OF THE KINGS. to break the force of the sun. The stores are little cubby holes of rooms, in front of which the trader sits and calls upon you to buy. As these avenues are not more than six feet wide at best, you can imagine what a time we had in making our progress. The town had some fine houses and mosques, but in the main it was like all tow^is in Upper Egypt, a collection of mud hovels. We rode beyond the town to the toml)s built in the sand and climb- ed the limestone rock on our donkeys. This was our first evidence of the manner of sepulture in the olden time. These desert rocks of limestone were tunnelled and made into rooms, and here the mummied dead found rest. The 284 LIFE OF GENERAL (tUANT. chambers appointed for them were large and spacious, according to the means of the deceased. In some that we entered there was a chamber, an ante-chamber, and some- times connecting chambers. There were inscriptions on the walls, but they had been defa3ed. The early Christians had deemed it their duty to obey the first commandment by removing the representatives of the gods that came in their way. The ceilings of the tombs had been once d'corated, but modern Christians have deemed it their duty to deface them by firing pistol shots. When you visit a tomb and note the blue stars and astronomical forms that the ancients painted with so much care, it is so cunning to try the echo by firing your pistol. Consequent- ly the roofs are spotted with bullet marks. Here also came the wanderers for shelter, and you see what the fires have done. What the tombs may have been in the past, when they came fresh from pious, loving hands, you can imagine. But what with ancient Christian iconoclasts, modern Christian wanderers, Bedouins, Arabs, selling the graves for ornaments, nothing remains but empty lime- stone rooms filling with sand and a few heiroglyphic memorials on the walls. We were bidden to an entertainment at the home of Wasif el Hayat, and seven being the hour, we set forth. We were all anxious about our first Arab entertainment, and after some deliberation our naval men concluded to go in their uniforms. The Doctor rode ahead in the carriage with General and Mrs. Grant and the Consul-General. As the Doctor wore his uniform and the others, were in plain dress he was welcomed by the awe-stricken Moslems as the King of America. Hadden and the rest of us rode behind on our trusty and well-beloved donkeys, Hadden in uniform, followed by wondering crowds. I suppose he was taken for a minor potentate, as in the Oriental eyes 285 286 uiFK OF GENERAL GRANT. all that lace and gold could not ])e wasted on anything less than princely rank. But we all had more or less attention, although we could feel that the uniforms were the centre of glory, and that we shone with borrowed splendor. As we came to the house of Wasif el Hayat, we found a real transformation scene. Lanterns lined the street, servants stood on the road, holding blazing torches, a transparency was over the gate with the words, "Welcome, General Grant." The "N" was turned upside down, but that made no difference, for the welcome here in far Africa made the heart throb quicker. As we rode up, torches blamed, rockets went up into the air, various colored lights were burned, and we passed into the court3^ard glowing with light and color, passed into the house over carpets and rugs of heavy texture and gorgeous pattern. Our host met us at the gates of his house and welcomed us in the stately Oriental way, kissing the General's hand as he clasped it in his two hands, and then touching his own heart, lips and brow. Here we met the Governor, and, more welcome still, the Rev. I. R. Alexander and his wife. Mr. Alexander is one of the professors in the missionary college and is under the direction of the United Presbyterian Church. The dinner came, and it was regal in its profu- sion and splendor. I should say there were at least twenty courses, all well served. When it was concluded, the son of the host arose, and in remarkably clear and correct English, proposed the General's health. You will allow me, I am sure, to give you a fragment of this speech. "Long have we heard and wondered," said the speaker, "at the strange progress which America has made during this past century, by which she has taken the first position among the most widely civilized nations. She has so quickly improved in sciences, morals and arts, that the world stands amazed at this extraordinary progress which TOUll AROUND THE WUUI.D. 287 surpasses? the swiftness of lightning. It is to the hard work of her great and wise men that all this advance is imputed, those who have shown to the world what wise, courageous, patriotic men can do. Let all the Avorld look to America and follow her example — that nation which GROUP OF BEDOUINS. has taken as the basis of her laws and the object of her undertakings to maintain freedom and equality among her own people and secure them for others, avoiding all am- bitious schemes which would draw her into bloody and disastrous wars, and trying by all means to maintain peace internally and externally. The only two great wars upon which she has engaged were entered upon for pure and just purposes — tbe first for releasing herself from the 288 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. English yoke and erecting her independence, and the other for stopping slavery and strengthening the union of the States ; and well we know that it was mainly under God due to the talent, courage and wisdom of His Excel- lency General Grant, that the latter of the two enterprises was brought to a successful issue." The sj^eech closed by a tribute to the General and the Khedive. General Grant said in response that nothing in his whole trip had so im23ressed him as this unexiDected, this generous welcome in the heart of Egypt. He had anticij)ated great pleasure m his visit to Egypt, and the anticipation had been more than realized. He thanked his host and especially the young man who had spoken of him with so high praise for their reception. The dinner dissolved into coffee, conversation and cigars. It was ratlier a long distance to our next place of note, Abydos, and Sami Bey had given orders that we should be ready at eight for our journey. I am afraid it was quite an effort for some of the party whose names shall be with- held to heed this command. But the General was first on deck and very soon came Mrs. Grant eager and smihng, after whom the full company hurried. " Here," said Brugsch, as we dismounted and followed him into the ruins of the temples, " here we should all take off our hats, for here is the cradle, the fountain-head of all the civilization of the world." This was a startling statement, but Brugsch is a serious gentleman and does not make extravagant speeches. Then he told us about Abydos, which lay around us in ruins. Abydos is a temple which the Khedive is rescuing from the sand. The city was in its time of considerable importance, but this was ages ago, ages and ages; so that its glory was dead even before Tiiebes began to reign. Thebes is an old city, and yet I suppose, compared with Thebes, Abydos is as much older as one of the buried Aztec towns 28d 290 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. in Central America is older than New York. When the temple is all dug out we shall find it to have been a stu- pendous affair ; but there are other temj^les, too, in better condition, and what interests us at Abydos is the city. Here, according to tradition — a tradition which Plutarch partly confirms — was buried the god Ostris. The discov- ery of that tomb will be an event as important in EgyjDtol- ogy as even the discovery of America by Columbus in his day. In the earliest times it was believed Osiris was buried here. To the ancient Egyj^tians the burial place of that god was as sacred as Mecca is to the Moslems or the Holy Sepulchre to the Mediaeval Christians. The government has, therefore, been digging in all directions, and we started after Brugsch to see the work. Mrs. Grant rode along on her donkey, and the rest of us went in dif- ferent directions on foot. There had been troubles in the neighborhood — riots arising out of the bad Nile and taxes. So we had a guide who hovered around us — one soldier, whom we called, in obedience to the law of physical coin- cidences. Boss Tweed — keeping watch over the General. He was a fat and ragged fellow, with a jolly face. It*was quite a walk to the ruins, and the walk was over hills and ridges of burning sand. So the Marquis went to the village to see if the camels had come bearing the luncheon — a subject that was of more value to his practi- cal mind than the tomb of a dethroned deity. It was an interesting walk, to us especially, as it was our first real glimpse of the desert and of an ancient city. The General and the writer found themselves together climbing the highest of the mounds. It was rather an effort to keep our footing on the slippery sand. Beneath us was one excavation forty or fifty feet deep. You could see the remnants of an old house or old tomb ; millions of frag- ments of broken pottery all around. You could see the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 291 strata that age after age had heaped upon the buried city. The desert had slowly been creeping over it, and in some of the strata were marks of the Nile. For years, for thousands of years, this mass, which the workmen had torn with their S|)ades, had been gathering. The city was really a city of tombs. In. the ancient days the devout Egyptian craved burial near the tomb of Osiris, and so, for centuries, I supj^ose, their remains were brought to Abydos from all parts of Egypt. This fact gives special value to the excavations, as it gave a special solemnity to our view. As we stood on the elevation, talking about Egypt and the impressions made upon us by our journey, the scene was very striking. There was the ruined tem- 23le ; here were the gaping excavations filled with bricks and pottery. Here were our party, some gathering beads and skulls and stones; others having a lark with SauM Bey ; others following Mrs. Grant as a body guard, as hei' donkey plodded his way along the slopes. Beyond, junfi beyond, were rolling plains of shining sand — shining, burning sand — and as the shrinking eye followed the plaiiA and searched the hills, there was no sign of life ; nothing except, perhaps, some careering hawk hurrying to the river. It was the apotheosis of death and ruin, a fit man- tle for the sepulchred city below. I have seen no scene in Egypt more striking than this view from the mounds of Abydos. The sun was beating with continued fierceness, and we kept our way to the cluster of trees and the village. The Marquis, with illuminated eyes, informed us that the cam- els had come and the luncheon was ready. We sat around our modest table and feasted — feasted in the temple sacred to the memory of Osiris, and built by the pious munifi- cence of Sethi, the king who rests with God. The walk had given us an appetite and put us all in high spirits, 292 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. and we lunched in merry mood. There were toasts to the Khedive, to Sami Bey, to the General, and the invariable toast which comes from gracious womanly lips — to friends and dear ones at home. Then Brugsch told us of Salib, an Arabian who had been for twenty years working at the ex- cavation. He worked with so much diligence that he had become entirely blind, and it was now his only comfort to wander about the ruins, direct the workmen, and perhaps trace with his finger many a loved inscription that his zeal had brought to light. Salib lived near the ruins, on a pension allowed by the Khedive, and after luncheon we called on him and took our coffee in his house. The coffee was served on the roof, while some of us, weary with the sun, lay under the shadow of the wall and the date trees, and others sat about the courtyard, smoking, and Brugsch, who never misses his chance, improved the shin- ing hour to coj^y a hieroglyphic inscription. After an hour's rest, we went back again, very much as we came. But the journey was long, the road was dusty, and when we saw the flag flying from our boat, we were, some of us at least, a weary, very weary, party. We had ridden fif- teen miles on donkeys and walked two or three on the sand, and the shelter and repose of the cabin was grateful when at last it came. CHAPTER XVIII. THEBES LUXOR THE HOME OF RAMESES TEMPLES AND STATUES A THEBAN DINNER KARNAK AND ITS WON- DERS THE SACRED LAKE WHO WAS RAMESES ? RESEM- BLANCE TO LORD BEACON SrrELD MARKS OF THE RACES. Our imaginations, as might liave been expected, had been dwelling all these days on Thebes. We read it up and talked about it, and said, "When we see Thebes, we shall see one of the wonders of the world." We learned that Thebes was once a city that covered both banks of the Nile ; that it was known to Homer as the city of the Hun- dred Gates ; that it must have had 300,000 inhabitants, and that it sent out 20,000 armed chariots. It was famed for its riches and splendor until it was besieged. There Avas a temple of Memnon and the colossal statue which used to sino- its oracles when the sun rose. Here was to be found the palace temple of the great Kameses, the only ruin in Egypt known to have been the home of a king. Here we would see the columns of Luxor, the twin obelisk to the one now in Paris, the stupendous ruins of Karnak and the tombs of the kings. Thebes alone would repay us for our long journeyings; and we talked about Sesostris and the Phara- ohs in a familiar manner, as though they knew we were com- ing, and would be at home. And when we became a little hazy on our history and could not get our kings exactly straight, and were not sure whether Sesostris was in the nineteenth or the twenty-ninth dynasty, we always fell back on Brugsch, who knew all the dynasties and was an ever-running spring of information, and always as gentle (293) 294 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. and willing as he was learned. By the time we approached Thebes we were well out of that stage and were well up in our Rameses, and knew all about Thebes, the mighty, the magnificent Thebes, the city of a world's renown, of which we had been reading and dreaming all these years. And as Brugsch, leaning over the rail, talked about KUINS AT THEBES Thebes, we listened and watched through the clear air for the first sign of its glory. There were the mountains beyond, the very mountains of which we had read, and there was the plain. But where was Thebes ? We looked through our gUisses and saw at first only the brown caver- ned hills, the parched fields and the shining sand. We looked again, and there, sure enough, were the colossal statues ofMemnon, two broken pillars so they seemed, with a clump of trees near them. Only the field, the sand and the hills beyond, only the same cluster of hovels on on the shore and the two distant columns. This was all that remained of the glory of the city that was the glory of the ancient world. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 293 There was one, at least, in that small company whose imagination fell, and who could scarcely believe that so much splendor could only be this barren plain. The town of Luxor, as it is called, is really a collection of houses that have fastened upon the ruins of the old temple. This temple is near the river, and has a fine fa§ade. It was built by Amunoph III. and Rameses IL, In the morning we made ready for our trip to Memnon and the temple home of Eameses. We set out early in the morning — early, at least, for a party of idle voyagers who did not crave a reputation for rising. We had to cross the river, our boatmen singing their Arab music. And when we landed on the other shore, we had, thanks to the forethought of our consul at Thebes, a col- lection of stable donkeys, with a well mounted horse for the General. We were a little time getting underway. There was the escort of serving men with the luncheons on camels, who pushed ahead. Then came the General and his party. The party was composed of fifteen, as we had with us the Consul, the Governor of the province, the Marquis and Hassan. But as every donkey had two donkey boys, with a couple of girls, carrying water on their heads, running at your side — as there was a sheik, in stately turban, and five or six soldiers on guard — and a crowd crying for baksheesh and offering antiquities for sale, our tourists' group grew to be quite an army, and as we trailed over the plain we looked like a caravan. The antiquity dealers and water girls swarmed around us so that it was difficult to ride with comfort, and Hassan, who has practical ways of settling problems, went among them with a stick. Hassan's energy, however, brought his good name into peril, for the idea of beating the nimble, ragged maidens who flocked about us and filled the air with dust was revolting to the lady of the expedition, who summoned 19 296 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Hassan before her aud forbade him to beat the children. Hassan, who is as kindly a being as ever carried a scimeter, explained that he only wanted to frighten them and did not beat anybody. I quite believed him, for in the race the water girls, who were as nimble as a gazelle, would leave Hassan, who is stout and slow, far behind in no time. So, as a preventive measure, Hassan was instructed to make public announcement that unless the water girls and donkey boys and antiquity peddlers remained far behind where they would not raise the- dust, they should have no baksheesh, Hassan made this terrible proclamation from his donkey with many gesticulations and shaking of his stick ; and so we kept on with moderate comfort and peace. But every now and then some one of the damsels would steal up to your side under pretense of offering you water and coax you with the large black wondering eyes, so that resistance was impossible, and in this way we came to Memnon. All that is left of IMemnonism are the two colossal statues, the one to the north being the statue that, according to the historians and j)riests, used to utter a sound every morning when the sun rose. The statue is silent enough now, and is a monolith about fifty feet high . A good part oft he base is bu r- ied in the earth, but they loom up over the plain and may be seen — as, in fact, we did see them— miles and miles away. You may have an idea of the size when you know that the statue measures 18 feet 3 inches across the shoul- ders, 16 feet G mches from the top of the shoulder to the elbow, and the other portions of the body in due projDor- tion. No* trace can be found of the cause of the vocal sunrise phenomenon. One theory is that the priests used to climb into a recess in the body of the statue and perform a juggler's trick. I do not think so badly of thp. Egyptian priests, who, I suppose, were good men in their way, and not charlatans. You might find one j^riest in a multitude ■ 297 298 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. capable of climbing into a recess and calling upon the peo[)le to pay pew rent or tithes or something of the kind. But this sound continued for generations, and I do not believe you could find generations of priests carrying on the deception for years and years; so I dismiss that theory and take another which Brugsch explains to us. The statue would be moist with dew at sunrise, and the sun's rays acting upon the dew w^ould cause it to emit a sound like an interrupted chord of music; just such a sound as you hear from a sea shell if you hold it to your ear. As EGYPTIAN ARCHITECTURE. the sun is sure to shine every morning on these plains you could be certain that such a phenomenon would recur daily. I can well imagine how a freak of nature might be taken as the voice of the gods, and how humble priests would bow down to it and not enter into scientific specula- tions. After the statue had been tossed by an earthquake and riven the music ceased, which only confii-m me in doing justice to the poor priests. After we had ridden around the Memnon statue and its companion — around and around them, so as to see them from all sides and have a full sense of their immensity — after we had rested a half hour in the grateful shade of the column, for the day was TOUR AEOUND THE WORLD. 299 warm and severe, we made our way to the neighboring temple of Medeenet Habro. Our ride to this temple was over a mass of sand and rubbish. But near it was a shel- tering grove of date palms, and the INIarquis, whose prac- tical mind is never disturbed by any ruins, however ancient, quietly informed us, as an encouragement under the beating sun, that we were to have luncheon. We had seen Thebes, we had even begun to grow weary of it. There was a dinner in State which had to be eaten. The General was tired and concluded he would not go. He had been riding all day to Memnon, the temple, and back again, and we were all dusty and tired, But when the General's regret was sent, our Arab host was so sad about it and so apprehensive lest his fellow consuls, who knew the General had dined with other consuls on the way, might misconstrue his absence. So the General went in state or in as much state as we can as- sume in this region, our naval friends in full uniform. When we went to our Theban dinner, the Doctor was il I, and the honor fell upon Hadden, who blazed in gold, and whom the waiters were with the utmost difficulty prevented from helj^ing as the honored guest. Our dinner w^as served in the upper chamber of the house, and the host sat on one side of the table in a state of constant alarm, that made us quite sympathize with him. He was an Egyptian, with a keen, kind, swarthy face, with a slight gray beard, who had never been north of Thebes in his life, and had never drank anything but Nile water. I suppose the honor of entertaining the Chief Magistrate of the United States, and the fear lest he might not do us all the honor he wished, opj^ressed him, and he sat in anxiety and alarm. The dinner was a stupendous affair, course after course in Oriental profusion, until we could not even pay the dishes the compliment of tasting them. Then came the coffee 300 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. and the pipes. During the dinner, which was composed of the host and our own party, we had music. A group of Arab minstrels came in and squatted on the floor. The leader of the band — I should say about a half dozen — was blind, but his skill in handling his instrument was notable. It was a rude instrument, of the violin class, the body of it a cocoanut shell. He held it on the ground and played with a bow, very much as one would play a violoncello. He played love songs and narratives, and under the promptings of Sami Bey went through all the grades of his art. But whether the theme was love or war, there came that sad refrain, that motive of despair, that seemed to speak from the soul and to tell of the unending misery of their race. Mr. Jesse Grant, who has a taste for music, was quite interested in the performance, and sought to teach the minstrels some of our European and American airs. One of them was the " Marsellaise." The Arab listened to it and tried again and again to follow the notes. He would follow for a few bars and break down, break into the same mournful cadence which had been the bun- den of his melody. It seemed strange, this burdened and beaten slave trying to grasp that wild, brave, bold anthem which spoke the resolve of a nation to be free. It was beyond and above him. The music of the Marsellaise was aever intended for the Lybian desert. If these people, oppressed and driven as they are, should ever come to know it, there will be hope for this land of promise, which has so long been the land of sorrow and servitude. We Avere to see the wonder of the world in Karnak, The journey to Karnak is only about forty minutes' ride from Luxor, and does not involve crossing the river. I was grateful to the Vice Consul for sending us the same group of donkeys who had borne us to Memnon. And when I ivscended the hill, there was my friend Mohammed TOUll AROUND THE WORLD. 301 AH jumping, and calling and pushing liis donkey toward me. A good donkey has much to do with the pleasure of your journey, and Mohammed All's was a patient, sure- footed little thing that it made me almost ashamed to ride. We set out early, because it was commanded by Sami Bey that we should return to the boat and breakfast, and while at breakfast steam up the river. JHSSESZ KARNAK. I cannot tell you when the Temple of Karnak was built. You see, in this matter of chronology authorities as high as Wilkinson, Bunsen and Mariette differ sometimes as much as a thousand years in a single date. But my own opinion is that Brugsch knows all about it, and he places the first builduag three thousand years before Christ. Karnak, which was not only a temple, but one in the series of temples which constituted Thebes, is about a half mile from the river, a mile or two from the Temple of 302 LIFE OF GENERAL GPtA]S^T. Luxor. The front wall or propylon in 370 feet broad, 50 feet deep, and tlie standing tower 140 feet high. Leading up to this main entrance is an avenue, lined with statues and sphinxes, 200 feet long. When you enter this gate, you enter an open courtyard, 275 feet by 329. There is a corridor or cloister on either side ; in the middle a double line of columns, of which one only remains. You now come to another wall, or propylon, as large as the entrance, and enter the great hall — the most magnificent ruin in Egypt. The steps of the door are 40 feet by 10. The room is 170 feet by 329, and the roof was supported by 134 columns. These columns are all or nearly all stand- ing, but the roof has gone. Twelve are 62 feet high with- out the plinth, and 11 feet 6 inches in diameter. One hundred and twenty-two are 42 feet 5 inches in height and 28 feet in circumference. They were all brilliantly col- ored and some of them retain the colors still ; and you can well imagine what must have been the blaze of light and color when the kings and priests passed through in solemn procession. We pass through another gate into an open court. Here is an obelisk in granite seventy-five feet high, and the fragments of another, its companion. The inscrij^- tions on them are as clear as though they had been cut yesterday, so gentle is this climate in its dealings with Time. They celebrate the victories and virtues of the kings who reigned 1700 years before Christ, and promise the kings, in the names of the immortal gods, that their glory shall live for ages. We pass into another chamber very much in ruins and see another obelisk, ninety-two feet high and eight square — the largest in the world. This monument commemorates the virtues of the kino-'s dau^h- o o ter, womanly and queenly virtues which met their reward, let us hope, thirty-five centuries ago. You may form some idea of what the Egyptians could do in the way of median- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 303 ics and engineering when you know tliat thin obelisk is a single block of granite, that it was brought from the quarry miles and miles away, erected and inscribed in seven months. The next room was the sanctuary, the holy of holies, and is now a mass of rubbish requiring nimble feet to climb. You scramble over stones and sand until you come to what was the room where King Thothmes III., who lived sixteen centuries before Christ, was rej^resented as giving offerings to fifty-six of his royal predecessors. The hall is a ruin, and some French Vandals carried of! the tablet — one of the most valuable in Egypt — to Paris. Altogether the building stone was 1,108 feet long and about 300 wide, the circuit around the outside, according to a Eoman historian who saw it in its glory, being about a mile and a half. EGYPTIAN HIEROGLYPHIC INSCRIPTION— EGYPTIAN WARRIORS HASTENING! TO BATTLE. This is the temple, but the temple was only a part. There were three avenues leading from it to the other temples. These avenues were lined with statues, large and small, generally of the Sphinx. I saw numbers of them sitting in their ancient places slowly crumbling to ruin. There were two colossal statues at the door, now lying on 304 LIFE OF GEXERAL GlIAXT. the earth an uncouth mass of granite. One of them was ahnost buried in the sand, the ear being exposed. You can fancy how large it must have been when you know this ear was a foot long at least. Near the obelisk, some dis- tance from the temple, is a pool of water, on the banks of which black children are scampering and shouting " Bak- sheesh, howadji." This was the Sacred Lake. This lake had an important office in the religion of the old Egypt- ians. When an Egyptian died and was embalmed, his body was brought to the lake. The procession was a sol- emn one — mourners throwing dust on their heads, a priest sprinkling water from a brush dipped in a vase, very much as Catholic priests sj^rinkle holy w^ater; attendants throw- ing palms on the ground, others carrying fruits and meats, incense and ostrich feathers. The coffin w^as borne on a sledge until it came to this lake. Here were forty-two judges, men who had known the deceased. Here w^as the boat, the sacred boat that was to carry the body to the other shore. If it could be shown to these judges that the deceased had been an ungodly man, that his life had been a scandal, then he was denied sepulture. If it was shown that he had lived worthily, and the judges so decided, then all weeping ceased, eulogies were pronounced upon his memory, the body was carried to the other shore, and from thence removed to the catacombs to rest in honor and peace — in peace, at least, until Arab peasants rummaged their graves and made merchandise of their coffins and grave clothes, their ornaments and tokens, their very bones, just as these greasy Arabs who swarm about our donkeys are doing at this very hour. Wherever we find walls, we have inscrij^tions. The inscriptions are in hieroglyphic language — a language as clear to scholars now as the Latin or the Sanscrit. Brugsch reads them off to us as glibly as though he were reading TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 305 signs from a Bowery store. The stories will hardly bear repetition, for they are the same that we saw at Denclerah, at Abydos, all through Egypt. They tell of battles and the glory of the King, Kameses, who is supposed to be the Sesostris of the Greeks. We have him leading his men to attack a fortified place. Again we see him leading foot soldiers and putting an enemy to the sword. We have him leading his captives as an offering to the gods — and offer- EGYPTIAN HIEROGLYPHIC INSCRIPTION— STORMING A CITY, ing not only prisoners, but booty of great value. The groups of prisoners are rudely done, but you see the type of race clearly outlined. AVe know the Hebrew by the unmistakable cast of features — as marked as the face of Lord Beaconsfield. We trace the Phoenician, the Estruscan, as well as the negro types from Ethiojiia, and thus learn of the warlike achievements of this thirty century mon- arch, whose fame is carved all over Egypt, and about whose name there is an interesting debate. CHAPTER XIX. STILL ASCENDING THE NILE — KENEH — EASTERN POTTERY — DOMESTIC LIFE A VISIT TO THE PACHA ASSONAN THE BAZAARS MAKING PURCHASES PHIL^ — ON BOARD A DAIIABEEAH MEMPHIS THE SERAPEUM MARIETTE BAY AMONG THE TOMBS FAREWELL TO THE CITY OF MEMPHIS. Continuing their journey up the Nile, one of the party writes, on tlie 31st of January, as follows: — One visit worth noting was made to the town of Keneh. AYe tied up to the bank in our summary way, just as the wayfaring horseman dismounts and ties his horse to a tree. There is no question of wharves or quays or per- mission. When we tied, we all went ashore and picked out oar donkeys. The boys had seen our smoke far down the river, and were there to meet us. The town was a mile or so off, and we rode over the plain. It was a sad sight, and Sami Bey told us what a calamity this bad Nile meant to Egypt. When the Nile rises in its season and floods the fields, only departing when it leaves the richness that it brought all the way from Central Africa, then Egypt is rich. The ground teems with fatness, and I could well believe Sami Bey when he told us how he had ridden from the river bank to the town through fields of corn and sugar cane, through fields of waving, living, joyous green. To-day the fields are parched and brown and cracked. The irrigating ditches are dry. You see the stalk stumps of the last season's crop. But with the exception of a few (306) TOUR ABOUND THE WORLD. 307 clusters of the castor bean and some weary, drooping date palms, the earth gives forth no fruit. A gust of sand blows over the plain and adds to the sombreness of the scene. Here are hundreds of thousands of acres which, in a good year, would give generous crops. Now they give nothing, and the people who till them must be fed. A bad Nile, therefore, means bad times for the people and bad times for the Government. For when there are no crops there are no taxes, and even an Egyptian taskmaster could not force barren fields to j^ay revenue to the Khedive's treas- ury. It is safe to say that a bad Nile costs Egypt millions and millions of dollars. The people must live on last year's grain, and instead of helping the Government, must be helped by the Government. When you remember that the Khedive is under many burdens — the burden of an enormous debt, the interest of which is in default; a burden of a contingent in the Turkish army which he must support, the burden of the annual tribute to the Sultan, over $3,500,000 a year, you can understand the calamity of a bad Nile and why it is that most of the civil and military officers are in arrears for their salary — some of them for a year. Happily such a calamity as a bad Nile does not often occur. If it hapj^ened for two or three continuous years a famine would be the result. If the Nile ceased its office Egypt would have to be abandoned and these fertile plains given over to the desert. In fact, Egypt is only an annual struggle between the river and the desert. If ever the river surrenders, Egypt will be- come a barren, treeless plain of rocks and sand. The sand was blowing heavily as we entered Keneli. We had not been expected, so there were no ceremonies, and we could wander as we pleased. We dismounted under a grove of trees and went on foot into the town, our donkeys and donkey boys following after. We strolled 308 LIFE OF GENERAL GEAN'T. through the bazaars, which meant that we crowded our way through narrow, dusty passages where the tradesman sold his wares. The assortment was not varied — beads, grain, cloths, dates, pipes and trinkets. We went into one house where the potter was busy over his wheel. In Keneh pottery is an industry. The clay makes a fragile, porous vessel, through which the water evaporates in summer, acting as a filter and a water cooler. These vessels are POTTEK AT WUKK. grateful in the summer days, and there is quite a trade in them between Keneh and Lower Egypt. We had observed coming up rafts of stone jars, bound together with boughs, floating down the stream, very much as the old flatboats used to float down the Mississippi to New Orleans, laden with AVestern produce. The jars kept their own Inioyancy, and one raft would require not more than three or four men to ply it. The potter was very skilful. His child moistened the clay, and with deft fingers he fashioned it into form — into graceful lines and curving shapes, show- ing artistic sense. The cheaj^ness of the work when done TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 809 was amazing. The retail price was about eighty cents a hundred for small jars useful for the table. We went into a mill where the corn was grinding. It was the same process that we read about in the Bible — the horse going round and round, the grain crushing between an ui3j)er and nether stone and running into a pail. We went into one of the houses of the common people. Hassan led the way, and there was evidently no intrusion. A morsel of backsheesh would atone for any invasion of domestic privacy. The house was a collection of rooms ; the walls made of dried mud and bricks. It was one story high, thatched with straw. The floor was the ground. The walls were clay. In one room was the donkey, in another the cow — a queer kind of buffalo cow, that looked up at us as we went in. In another room slept the members of the family. There was neither bed nor chair nor table. They slept on the ground or on palm leaves, like the donkey. They sat on the ground for meals and ate out of the same dish. The woman was sitting over a fire on which she was roast- ing some kind of grain. The children were sj^rawling about her. The woman was a Copt and not doomed to Moslem seclusion. The father stood at the door grinning and waiting for baksheesh. The welcome was as cordial as possible, but I suj^pose there were not a thousand slaves in the South who Avere not better housed than these free Egyptian citizens. Their life was virtually that of a savage, but they all seemed happy and cheerful enough. In this land Nature is the friend of the poor. You can sleep on the ground every night of the year secure from rain. You can array yourself in the scantiest of raiment free from the cold. You can live on dates and sugar cane, and, as far as the real ailments that come from want and misery with us are concerned, they are not known in 310 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Egypt. The people are well made, well formed, with unusual powers of endurance, and naturally light. I would like to see any of our laboring men at home run up and down the Pyramid of Cheops in eight minutes, as I saw an Arab do for a franc. And we have no dam.sels among our own dear, tender, lovely maidens at home who could run at your donkey's side for miles and miles, bal- ancing a pitcher of water on their heads and showing no signs of fatigue. AN ARCH NEAR KENEH. We thought we had the town to ourselves to stroll and wander where we listed, when there came one to us in haste to say that the Pacha who governed this province had heard of our coming and would like to see us at the palace. And the General, who is as obliging a soul as one of the laden camels we are constantly passing, said he would call on the Pacha. We threaded our way to the palace, which was a low brick building, like a barracks. The messenger evidently did not expect so prompt an answer to his summons, as we saw him running ahead to tell his lord that we were coming — coming almost on his heels. We passed under a grateful row of trees, through TOUR AUOUND THE WORLD. 311 an open space where soldiers were lounging about, and into the cool, open rooms of the palace. We were shown into the reception chamber and ranged on the divan. There was a long pause. The Governor was no doubt enjoying a siesta, and had to rub the sleep out of his eyes or don his uniform. In time he came, a stout, pleasant-looking, gray moustached soldier, in his full uniform as general. We had surprised him, of course, and he had to dress. He received the General with grave courtesy, and there was the usual exchange of com23liments and talk about the weather. The General varied the conversation by expressing his regret that the bad Nile was on the people, and hoping for a good Nile. When this was translated, as the Pacha only spoke Arabic, he threw up his eyes ¥rith a gesture of devotion, saying, " If Ood wills it, and may He will it." Then came the coffee and the pipes, and we set forth. The Governor said he would accompany us in our walk, which he did. He directed that the state donkeys should be saddled, and they came after us. We then called upon the German Consul, who waylaid us and begged that we should honor his house. This officer lived in a style approaching splendor, and when we were served with pipes and coffee we noticed that the pipe stems were of amber, garnished with diamonds, and the coffee cups were of the finest porcelain, in cases of silver and gold. These ceremonies over, we came back to the boat through a gust of sand. The General rode one of the Pacha's donkeys. Assouan was to be the end of our journey, the turning point of our Nile trip. Assouan is the frontier station of old Egypt, on the boundary of Nubia. All these days we had been pressing toward the Equator, and we began to see the change. Assouan is a pretty town — to my mind prettier than any I had seen on the Nile. 20 312 LIFE OF GENERAL GliANT. Of Assouan, in the way of useful information, it Is sufficient to say that it is a town of 4,000 inhabitants, 580 miles south of Cairo, 730 south of the Mediterranean. It used to be supposed that the town lay directly under the Equator. In the ancient days Assouan was a quarry, and here were found the stones which became obelisks, temples and tombs. Assouan's history is associated more with Arabian than Egyptian history. AVhen Islam was march- ing to conquer the world, the Saracens made a town here and an outpost. In these days Assouan flourishes as one of the depots of the desert trade. Here the caravans came from Ethi(i- pia, and you find traces of desert merchandise among the bazaars. We visited the bazaars, ]\Irs. Grant and the writer doing some shopping, and Hassan going ahead with his stick, commanding all loyal subjects of the Khedive f.o fall back and make way for the pilgrims. There were no bones and no antiquities for sale at Assouan, a fact that I note with gratitude. But there was honest merchandise of a humble sort — ostrich feathers, ivory, gum arable, skins, ebony clubs, silver rings, lances and crockery. What carried us to the bazaars was the ostrich feather. This con- summate plume of our modern civilization is brought here in caravans from the desert. The best feathers are those which come from wild birds — those trained and tamed, as in Southern Africa giving our a flimsier and coarser fibred feather. I never knew there was so much in an ostrich feather until I found myself the silent partner of Mrs. Grant in the markets of Assouan. I also learned some valuable hints as to the way of doing business. In our prosy country you walk into a store, you pay your money, you pick up your handkerchief or New Testament, or whatever it may be, and walk away. You ask no ques- tions, and it is very probable if you did you would have nc TOUR AEOUND THE WORLD. 313 answers. The Arab sits in his cubbyliole smokmg his ])ipe. His cubbyhole is about six feet square and two feet from the ground. He sits with his legs crossed, and some- times he is reading the Koran. Here he sits for hours and hours, unconscious of the world, perhaps sustained by that fine Moslem precept which I submit to friends at home as a panacea for bankruptcy, that whatever is is the will of God, and if it is His holy will that no one comes and buys, then blessed be God, the only God, and Mohammed, the prophet of God. You come and turn over his goods. He studies you over and over. He calculates your power of resistance as though you were a mechanical force. If you are alone you become an easy prey. The people were all so poor, so ragged, so naked, and what they asked was, after all, so small that she was always disposed to pay more than w?is asked. But -in our bargains here we are thrown back upon Hassan's Arabic. You turn over your feathers arid hold them to the light and turn them over and over again. Finally, you select a bunch and bid Hassan buy them. Hassan picks them up, layg them down and picks them up again, as though there might be worse feathers, but he had never seen them; that he was selecting a feather museum and wanted a few specimens of the worst in the world. The dealer calmly looked on at this pantomime. Hassan asks in a contemptuous tone the price. He mur- murs the price — five or six Napoleons, let us say. " Five or six Napoleons ! " cries Hassan, throwing up his hands and eyes, tossing the feathers at the feet of the cross-legged Moslem and turning towards us with an expression of rage and wonder at the exorbitance of the price, and call- ing upon all around to witness that he was being swindled. " Well, but, Hassan," says our lady, as she takes up the rejected feathers, New York price lists running in her 314 LIFE OF GENERAL GllANT. mind, " I don't think five or six Napoleons such an exor- bitant price, for the feathers are good feathers." You see the poor merchant does look so poor, and he cannot sell many feathers in Assouan, and, of couse, he has children and so — and so. But this is the way trade is ruined, Hassan evidently thinks, but is too dutiful to say. So he explains that they always ask two prices, sometimes three or four, and that if we would all grow angry and throw down the feathers and walk aAvay after him the merchant would follow us even to the boat and ask us to name our price. Well, we appre- ciate Hassan's motives, but we want to buy the feathers and not perform a comedy, and the trade goes on, Hassan laboring under the disadvantage of our not having acted as a proper chorus to his rage. I have do doubt that lack of proper support cost us in the end, for our Moslem tradesman evidently saw that it was God'» will that we sliould buy the feathers. The trade proceeds. Hassan talks louder and louder and appeals to the crowd. As he talks in Arabic we only understand him as we would a pantomime. Finally the son of Islam asks what would the gracious lady give? "Well," says Mrs. Grant, "I want to give what is right." We name a price, say four Napo- leons. Then the merchant breaks into a pantomime. He takes the feathers angrily out of our hands. He, too, ad- dresses the audience — and by this time there is an audi- ence — upon the feathers. He holds them up and droops them into a waving, dainty plume. "Look at them! See liow they shine! Look at their tints — white and gray and black! Such feathers were never seen in Assouan; they came from the far desert; they would be cheap at a hun- dred Napoleons." We suggest to Hassan^after this address that we might as well go elsewhere ; that a faith so firmly fixed would not move. "Wait a little," Hassan says; "he TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 315 will take the four Napoleons, and would take three if we had offered them." So the debate goes on in fury, the ano-er increasing, until Hassan says four Napoleons will buy the feathers. We pay the money and go to the boat with our plumes. When we thank Hassan for his services, he intimates that if we had let him alone, he would have bought them for two Napoleons. It was very warm wdien we gathered under the trees to make ready for our journey. Sami Bey had hurried us, and the General was, as he always is, the first at his post. The Governor was there, and there was a suspicion, his clothes looked so neat and without wrinkles, that he had sat up all night to keep them nice. He brought the Gen- eral a despatch from Gordon Pacha, the famous English officer who has been made Governor-General of the Pro- vinces of the Equator by the Khedive, and wdio is now at Khartoum. But we are just within his provinces, and he sends his message of welcome, one great soldier greeting another. The General returns his thanks and we mount. The General is in luck this morning. The Governor has provided him-with an Arabian steed — one of the animals about which poets write. This horse was worthy of a poem, and the General expresses his admiration at its lines and paces, saying he had never seen a better horse. Its trappings are regal, and a smile of satisfaction breaks over the General's face as he gathers the reins in his hand and feels the beatings of his animal's flanks. Sami Bey sug- gests that perhaps the General should pace the horse up and down, with an attendant to hold him, to see if he is perfectly safe and comfortable. Now, Sami Bey is as good a soul as ever lived, and always trying to make everything pleasant, and while he is sure about donkeys, has doubts about this splendid prancing steed. But our General is famous as a horseman 316 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT in a land flimous for liorsemanshij), and smilingly says, " If I can mount a horse, I can ride him, and all the at- tendants can do is to keep away." We set out in proces- sion, our little trailing army in the usual order of march, the General ahead, Mrs. Grant at his side or near him, securely mounted on her donkey, the Marquis and Hassan near her, should, evil fall . So we rode along the bank and dismounted, and em- barked on a dahabeeah, which was to ferry us over. This dahabeeah is under the control of a sheik, whose duty is to carry vessels up and down the cataracts. For seventy years, man and boy, he has done this work, and as he stood by the rail looking on, his turbaned head, his swarthy face tinged with gray, and his flowing robes, he looked quite handsome and venerable. He had a crew of twenty- five, including the children. There was a minor charac- ter in baggy clothes who gave orders, but the old man was a moral influence, and he watched every jDhase and rij^ple of the stream. I should like to have interviewed the sheik. A man who has spent seventy years in these Nubian soli- tudes, striving with a mad, eccentric river, must have thought well on many grave problems. But my resources in strange tongues do not include Arabic ; and so I am debarred. But we are now moving along the stream and wayward currents encompass us, and the sheik is no longer a mere moral influence, but an active power. He shouts and gesticulates and the crew all shout in a chorus, ending with an odd refrain, something like a prolonged moan. It is quite stirring, this strife with the currents ; and, although the sun beats with all of his power upon us, we stand upon the deck and watch. The General greatly admired the seamanship of the Arabs — an admiration which is justified by the manner in which, surging through the perils of the stream, we nestle under the temple walls of Philse. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 317 We land, not without an effort, and climb into the ruin. Philae is not specially interesting as a temple after you have seen Thebes and Abydos. I can think of noth- ing useful to say about it except that as a ruin it is pictur- esque. Nature comes as an aid. The temples we have been visiting have been mainly in the sand, on the desert. But here we are in volcanic regions. Around us are piles of granite rock. The island is green and the date palms salute us as we pass. There are flowers, and, instead of bulging and sliding through sand, step trippingly over stones and turf. In the sanctuary we note three young Germans eating lunch. We pass to the other bank to see the cataract. This is one of the features of the Nile. The river here spreads into various channels and runs over recks. One channel is used for vessels ascending the stream, the other for vessels descending the stream. The one before us is not more than a (Quarter of a mile long. The river is narrow, the banks are steep, and the stream rolls and dashes like a sea, the waves lashing the banks and roaring. I should call the cataract simply a narrow, heavy sea. The danger in navigating is from the rocks and being dashed against the banks. It is a relief, fresh from five hundred miles of easy, placid sailing, the river as smooth as a pond, to see it in this angry mood. While we are here we note men swimming toward us, each man on a log, with a garment tied to the head. They are na- tives who propose to run the rapids for our amusement. They swim, or rather hold on to a log and propel them- selves into the current. It is hazardous enough, for the current sweeps like a torrent, and the least want of nerve would dash the swimmer against the rocks. But they go through bravely enough and come out into the smooth water below. Each swimmer, carrying his log on his shoulder, then approaches for his customary baksheesh. 518 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. We next mounted for our last sight-seeing on the Nile. Our ride to Memphis was a pleasant one, a part of it being through the desert. We passed close to the pyramid of Memphis, which is only an irregular, zig-zag mass of stones. Brugsch tells us it is very old, but with no especial historical virtue. The ruins of Memphis are two or three tombs and the serapeum or mausoleum of the sacred bulls. One of the tombs w^as open, and we went through it, noting, as we had so often before, the minute- ness and care of the decoration. There were other tombs, but to prevent the modern travelers from breaking them to pieces they were covered with sand. What a comment upon our civilization that Egypt can only preserve her tombs and monuments from Christian Vandals by burying them ! We then made our way to the Serapeum. While on our journey we heard the story of the discovery of this remarkable monument. Mariette Bey, who still serves the Khedive, was directing excavations, and especially at Memphis. He had long believed that the tomb of the bulls could be found. So here he came and lived, working in the sand for two or three years, with a blind faith in his theory. You cannot imagine anything more unsatis- factory or discouraging than this digging in the sand. In an hour or a day a wind may come up and undo the work of months. Mariette Bey had his own discouragements, but he kept courageously on and was rewarded by the dis- covery of the most important of the Egyptian monuments. We heard this story as we groped our w^ay dow^n to the tombs. We entered a long arched passage with parallel passages. Candles had been placed at various points. On each side of this passage were the tombs. Each tomb wiis in its alcove. The bull was placed in a huge granite aarcophagus, the surface finely polished and covered with 319 320 I^IFE OF GENEllAL GRANT. inscriptions. These coffins were stupendous, and it is a marvel how such a mass of granite could have been moved through this narrow channel and into these arches. We lit a magnesium wire and examined one or two very care- fully. The tombs had all been violated by the early con- querors, Persians and Arabs, to find gold and silver. In most cases the cover had been shoved aside enough to allow a man to enter. In others the sides had been broken in. The inside was so large that four of our party climbed up a ladder and descended. There was room for three or four more. There were tombs enough to show that the bull had been worshipped for centuries. When w^e finished this study we rode back to our boat. The sun was going down as we set out on our return, and as we were passing through a fertile bit of Egypt — a part not affected by the bad Nile — the journey was unusually pleasant. After the parched fields and sandy stretches of the Upper Nile, it was grateful to bathe in the greenery of this Memphis plain, to see the minarets of Cairo in the distance, to feel that we were coming back to our old civilization. The sky, lit up with the rosiest tints, one mass of the softest rose and pink — a vast dome glowing with color. Starless, cloudless, sunless it was that brief twilight hour, which we have seen so often on the Nile and the memory of which becomes a dream. I have seen no sky so beautiful as that which came to us when we bade farewell to Mem- phis. CHAPTER XX. THE HOLT LAND ITS SACRED ASSOCIATIONS GENERAL grant's visit LANDING AT JAFFA RAMLEH RIDE TO JERUSALEM TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO THE HOLY CITY — IN AND AROUND JERUSALEM WALK OVER THE VIA DOLOR- OSA THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE DAMASCUS SMYRNA — CONSTANTINOPLE A VISIT TO THE SULTAN A PRINCELY GIFT THE SLAVE MARKET THE MOSQUE OF THE SULTAN — ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS — MARS' HILL — CORINTH. Any journey in the East would be incomplete should the traveller forget or neglect to visit Jerusalem and its ad- joining villages. The City of David, emblem of the New Jerusalem, and the places made sacred by the feet of Him who " spake as never man spake," are surely worthy of a visit by one journeying either for pleasure or profit. What hallowed, sacred memories cluster around the spot where once the Redeemer trod. Surely, if there be such a thing as " Hallowed Ground," it is here. Writes Mr. Young : Of course, to feel Jerusalem, one must come with faith. And if there be doubts and questionings in any of our company, for this day at least we give ourselves up to the enjoyments of perfect trust in the Holy Record. We came to Jaffa on Sunday morning, the 10th of Feb- ruary. The "Vandalia" was waiting for us at Port Said, and as soon as we embarked she put out to sea. We had been absent just one month on Nile and other excursions, and it was something like coming home to find ourselves on the old deck among the familiar faces of our navy (321) 322 I.IFE OF GENERAL GRAXT. friends. The sea had been stormy, but the General is a fortunate traveller and it went down in honor of his coming. We ran over to Jaffa on a calm sea, and when we came to the town the sea was like a mill pond. This had not been before during the winter, and it was with a feeling of relief, amounting, perhaj^s, to thankfulness, that we shot through the jagged rocks, scrambled up the side into a crowd of greasy, howling Arabs, and walked into one of the dirtiest streets in the world. We were at last in the Holy Land. We went to our Vice Consul's (Mr. Hardegg), and there we found welcome and entertainment. There was a little JAFFA archway of flowers and branches over the road, surmounted by the inscription, "Welcome, General Grant," and all the town was out to do us honor. The General, who moves im- mediately upon every point of interest, went to the house of Simon, the tanner, the house by the seaside, to which Peter came when he raised Tabitha from the dead, and preached that fine Gospel truth — the finest of all political truths — that God is no respecter of persons. The raiu was TOUil xVROUND THE WORLD. 823 falling, but the wind was from the shore and kept down the sea. Our party for Jerusalem included four of the Vandalia's officers — Lieutenant Commander A. G. Cald- PEASANT WOMAN OF THE EAST, well, Lieutenant T. W. Miller, Engineer D. M. Fulmer and Midshipman William S. Hogg. All that Jaffa con- tained worthy of interest had been seen, and Ave prepared for the Holy City. We had three clumsy open wagons, each drawn by three horses, and we drove out of the town into the plain of Sharon, at about four in the afternoon. It was too early in the season to see Palestine in its glory; but the plain was rich and fertile, sparkling with lilies and scarlet anemones, witli groves of orange trees 324 J.IFE OF GENERAL GRANT bending under their yellow fruitage, with almond trees coming into bloom. We had been tliese many days in Egypt with no forest comj^anions but the drooping date palms, and we had been lamenting the parched and barren fields that came from the bad Nile. It was grateful to see Palestine, therefore, in its greenness, and even the rain was so homelike that we welcomed it and drove steadily through it until, when the sun went down, we were in the town of Ramleh, where we remained for the night. Our first lodging in the Holy Land was humble enough, and by the time we reached Kamleh the rain was pouring. Still -"'■/>>'/*""*. RAMLEH. we were in the most cheerful humor, ready only to see the bright side. Even Caldwell — who had to put on his uni- form and sword and go out into the mud, with an Arab, carrying a lantern, v/alking ahead, and two soldiers behind, and various dogs howling in escort — even Caldwell, who had to call on the Governor, seemed to think that there never was so jolly an errand. None of us volunteered to go along. We preferred to sit in the shelter of the hotel. TOUK AUOU:XD THE WOULD. 325 We have our first biblical view when we pass the ruins of Gezer, whicli Mr. Hardegg tells us was once a royal city of the land of Canaan — that an Egyptian monarch captured it and gave it to Solomon, when that wise king but Avidely disseminated husband married the conqueror's daughter. There is nothing worth pausing to see, especiallv in the rain, and Solomon somehow does not interest us, for our thoughts are all on Jerusalem and one greater than Solomon. At certain intervals we see a square stone guard- house, where soldiers once lived to watch the roads. But the houses are abandoned and the soldiers have gone to war upon the Muscovite, and the road must take care of itself. We stop about eleven at the only place of entei'- tainment on the way and are shown into a gloomy, damp upper chamber. There we make our luncheon on a pine table in primitive fashion, the Marquis unburdening the baskets and each one helj^ing the other. Some of us walk over the hills for a short tramp while the horses munch their grain, and come back bearing anemones and butter- cups and daisies, which we lay at the feet of the lady of the expedition as an offering from the Holy Land. We ai'e off an hour ahead of time, thanks to our illustrious com- mander. It had been calculated by experts that we should reach Jerusalem about sundown ; but our captain had planned an earlier arrival and that we should enter the sacred city while the sun shone. So we went over hills that kept growing higher and over roads growing worse and worse. Some of us walked ahead and made short cuts to avoid the sinuous path. We pass a village some way off, which in latter years was the home of a bandit sheik. We are told that this is the village of Kirjath Jearim, about which you may read in the Bible, where, as Samuel informs us, the ark remained twenty years. If we stopped long enough we might see an interesting church, 326 LIFE OF GENP:RAL GRANT. but we are just now running a limited express to Jerusa- L^ni. We see beyond us Joshua's Valley of Ajalon, almost hidden in the mist, and remember how the Lord answered his prayer. We come to the scene of the great Ijattle between David and Goliath. There were stones enough for the strijDling's sling, as we can well see. The valley is deep and the brook sdll runs a swift course. We could well imao;ine the armies of the Jews on one side of the valley, and the armies of the Philistines on the other. It was the last ravine this side of the heights of Jerusalem, and one of the strongest natural defences of the Holy City. W^e expected to enter Jerusalem in our quiet, plain Avay, pilgrims really coming to see the Holy City, filled with its renowned memories. But, lo and behold! here is an army with banners, and we are commanded to enter as conquerers, in a triumphal manner ! Well, I know of one in that company who looked with sorrow U2:>on the l)ageant, and he it was for wdiom it was intended. But there was no help for it. So w^e assembled and were in due form presented, and there were coffee and cigars. More than all, there were horses — for the General, the Pacha's own white Arab steed in housings of gold. It was well that this courtesy had been prompted, for the bridge over the brook was gone and our carts would have had a sorry business crossing. We set out, the General thinking, no doubt, that his campaign to enter Jerusalem at four had been frustrated by an enemy upon whom he had not counted. He had considered the weather, the roads, the endurance of the horses; but he had not considered that the Pacha meant to honor him as though he were another Alexander coming into a conquered town. So we trailed up the winding ways of the hill — the hill which sheltered Jerusalem from the Canaanite and Philistine. Jerusalem is two thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and even TOUR AROUND THE WOULD. 327 then it lies beyond a hill that must be passed. !So we wind around and around, up and around, steadily, patiently strainmg toward the summit. The mist and the clouds that had been hovering over our path finally enveloped us, and we could trace with difficulty the path over which we came. The view on a clear day must be wonderful for breadth and beauty, and even now, with the gray clouds about us and the rain falling in a mist, we looked down the mountain's dizzy side and saw hill after hill sweeping like billows on toward the sea. As a glimpse of nature there was beauty in the scene to be remembered in many a dream. But we were thinking of the valley below, as scenes of events which have stirred the souls of Christian men for centuries, as the path of conquering armies — of Joshua and David — of Alexander and Vespasian — of God- frey and Saladin. And here we were coming with banners and armed men, and at our head, riding side by side with the Pacha's Turkish lieutenant, is one whose name will live with that of the greatest commander who ever pre- ceded him over this rocky way. The valley passes away. We ride about a mile through a suburb, the highway lined with people. The General passes on, with bared head, for on both sides the assembled multitude do him honor. We see through the mist a mass of domes and towers, and the heart beats quickly, for Ave know they are the domes and towers of Jerusalem. There are ranks of soldiers drawn in line, the soldiers presenting arms, the band playing, the colors falling. We pass through a nar- row gate, the gate that Tancred forced with his crusaders. We pass under the walls of the tower of David, and the flag that floats from the pole on the consulate tells us that our journey is at an end, and that ayc are within the walls of Jerusalem. There w^ere ceremonies to be paid and returned, which i will sum up and dismiss at once. The Pacha called in 21 328 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. state and spoke of the honor conferred upon Palestine by the coming of the General The consuls came with com- pliments. The bishops and patriarchs all came and blessed the General and his house. The Pacha offered to send his band of fif.y pieces and a guard to be in constant attendance. But visiting the holy places with a band of music and a military escort was so appalling an honor that it was declined with as much skill as possible to avoid offense. As a compromise, the General accepted the band for the hour in the evening when we dined. He could not avoid it, and it would be a pleasure to the people, who swarmed at his gates, and lay in wait for him with peti- tions. The Pacha gave a state dinner to which we all went — a dinner marked with the kindest hospitality. These ceremonies, or portions of them, quite used u]) our little time. The General intended to spend tbree days AN EASTERN DINING-ROOM. only in Jerusalem, for already his eyes turn toward Rome, where he expects in March to meet some of his family, and we must in the meantime see Damascus, Beyrout, Smyrna, TOUil AlKJUNn THE WOULD, 32« Constantinople, Athens, C'orintli and Syracuse. We set out in the afternoon to walk over the sacred jilaces, and our first walk was along the Via Dolorosa. Some of us had stolen away in the morning before the ceremonies began, to walk over the street consecrated to Christianity, — the street over which Jesus Christ carried His cross. I am living within five minutes' walk of Cal- vary. I look at it in the morning from the terrace near my chamber door — a fair rounded dome, high in the air, VIA DOLOROSA covering the spot upon which our Saviour suffered. I do not enter into the question as to whether or not this was the real Calvary. Somehow one thinks it nuist have been 3bO J.TFE OF GENERAL GKANT. one of the hills beyond the city, of which there are many ; that the cross would have been more im^^osing on the toj) of the Mount of Olives, for instance, than here within the walls near the market places, under a dome. But execu- tions, we must remember, are not j)ageants, and it would have been a weary road over the valley and up the hill for any careful centurion to send his soldiers. It is known that in the time of Christ, Calvary was without any city walls, that it was about sixty feet above the lower streets of the city, as high as Mount Moriah and Mount Zion. So that any condition of place and convenience is satisfied. We pa^ss from our hotel on Mount Zion through a narrow, dingy street paved with jagged cobble-stones. We make our way with some difficulty. We stumble and slide rather than walk. We pass beggars who cry for alms, workmen at various industries, merchants selling their wares, camels and asses and beasts of burden. We turn into a covered way and slide and stumble along, and we are on the Via Dolorosa. The first place pointed out is the Coptic Monastery. Here Christ sank under the weight of the cross. We are going down the hill which He ascended. We come to the ruins of the Hosj^ice of the Knights of St. John, Here is where Jesus addressed the women who followed Him. We wind around the corner and follow the narrow, slippery way — beggars crawling about us for alms, and Alexander, of the Legation, fair young Syrian in Oriental costume, bearing a sword, lead- ing the way. Alexander is in something of a hurry, the Via Dolorosa being of about as much interest to him as Broadway to a New York policeman. Here we are at the house where Jesus fell for the second time. A few steps further, and we are at the house and tomb of Veronica, who wiped the blood from His holy brow and left His image on her napkin. We descend a slippery path, and TOUK AROUND TIIP: WOULD. 331 at the corner is the house against which Christ leaned overcome by agony. You see a dent in the stone. This dent was made by the hand of our Lord as He stretched it out to support his burden. It is smooth and dark with the kisses of millions of believing lips. The next house is that of Dives, the rich man. At the cor- DAVID'S TOMB, MOUNT ZION. ner, Simon of Cyrene took the cross and carried it a part of the way, for which good deed his name became immor- tal. In front of the house of Dives is a stone, and over it a hovel. The hovel was the house of the beggar, the stone is where he sat in quest of alms, and under this archway where we now stand and look at the rich man's house Jesus stood and pronounced the parable which you will find in the sixteenth chapter of Luke. Here the road makes another bend, and we pass a broken column that 332 LIFE OF (lENEllAL GlwVNT. must at one time have been a stately ornament. The col- umn broke where Jesus sank upon it, and the fissure is clear and deep. We keep on until we come to a church, a bright new church, with an arch overhanging the street. This is the Church of Ecce Homo. It was here or here- abouts that the road to the cross began. There is a bar- racks on the site of Pilate's 'judgment hall. We go into the church, a sweet-faced sister opening the way. Behind the altar is an arch, and under this arch Pilate stood when he delivered over Jesus to the Jews and washed his hands of innocent blood. Here, in an enclosure, was the whip- ping, the crowning with thorns, the decoration with the purple robes, and here also Jesus took up the cross which He carried to Calvary. We can readily see, as we retrace our way up the Via Dolorosa, that it must have been a rough and weary road to one rent and torn and bleeding and crushed under the cruel burden of the cross. Even to us — free as we are — wayfarers, in full possession of our fiiculties, it is a tedious task to climb the hill of Calvary. We descended the hill and ascended it again before we found ourselves in the company of the General. Mrs. Grant was vouchsafed the dispensation of a donkey, and we all followed after on foot. When we finished the Via Dolorosa, we kept on outside the gates and over the valley of Jehoshaphat. The brook below is the brook Kedron, of which it is written that Jesus, on the night before His betrayal, "went forth with His disciples over the brook Kedron, where there was a garden, to the which He entered, and His disciples." This is written in the eigh- teenth chapter of John, and we cross the very brook hallowed by His holy and sorrowful footsteps. We {iscend the hill a short distance and come to a walled gai'den. A monk opens the gate and we descend. The garden blooms with flowers. The paths are neatly swept. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 33:^ Around the walls are the pictures by which the Catholic represents the way to the cross. Over the flower-beds droops a cluster of olive trees, ancient, and gnarled, and bending. It is not chfficult to believe, knowing what we do about trees in California, that these are twenty centuries old. The General says he does not doubt it, even from the random evidence of his own eyes. Under this tree Jesus Christ knelt and prayed, and made holy forever the Garden of Gethsemane. We looked at the tree called "The Tree of Agony." We pressed its knotted bark with VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. reverence and love, and though we were an idle, worldly group, fresh out of a busy, worldly world, there were few words spoken, and all thoughts turned to the sacred and sorrowful scenes which Christian men believe here took place. And if one could know the hearts of those who were about the tree, who stood around in silence, I have no doubt that he would know of many a silent prayer breathed to Heaven for the Sufferers aid. 334 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. We passed on over the hill to the village of Bethany. It was here that Jesus lived when He preached in Jerusalem. Here was Lazarus, His friend, whom He called from the tomb. Here lived Martha and Mary, whom Jesus loved — Martha, who served Him at supper, and Mary, who chose the better part. We ride under the overhanging ruins of the dwelling in which Jesus found home, shelter, friend- ship, love ; where He came for peace after the hard day's work in Jerusalem. We walked around Bethany — which is only a collection of ruins and hovels — passing over the graveyard where Lazarus was buried. We continue along the road that leads to Jerusalem again, not over mountain, but the one sloping near its base, and so returned to our abode. General Grant and his party next proceeded to the city of Damascus. This city lies on the east of anti-Lebanon, about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, in a fertile plain near the desert. It is the oldest city known in his- tory. The Barada River passes through it, giving it addi- tional beauty. We find this city first mentioned in Gene- sis xiv. 15, where it is referred to as being the city of Abraham's steward. It was here that Naaman, the leper, lived. At the time of the Apostle Paul, the city was under the rule of the Romans, and Aretas, the Arabian, was its ruler. As early as 800 b. c, the fine fabrics of Damascus had become famous. The damask-silk and sword-blades are still so. There are certain points pointed out to travellers as being historically connected with Paul and his time. The " street called Straight " now bears the name of Bazaars ; there is also the house of Judas ; the house of Ananias ; the spot where Paul was converted, which is an open, green place, surrounded by trees, and at present used as a Christian burial-ground ; the place where Paul was let down by the 335 336 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. wall in a basket ; and also several spots connected with tlie life of the prophet Elisha. The city is surrounded by a ruinous wall of ancient Roman foundations, " and a patch- work of all succeeding ages." Viewed from a distance, the city has a splendid appearance, which is not well sustained upon near approach. The houses are rudely constructed, the I I A DANCING-GIRL OF DAMASCUS. streets narrow, and paved with big, rough stones, or not at all, and portions of them are covered over with mats or withered branches. The bazaars are covered ways with a few stalls upon each side, and the different trades are placed by themselves. Although the streets 23resent a somewhat rough appearance, yet the interior of the j)rivate 338 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. houses are very neat, the rooms opening from the court being decorated with carving, gilding, and all the adorn- ments that wealth and taste can provide. The courts are neatly paved, and are ornamented with costly fountains and beautiful shade-trees. The modern name of the city is Esh Shaum. It has at present a population of 150,000 people, of whom 15,000 are Christians and 6,000 are Jews. The people are very fond of amusements, among which dancing occupies a prominent position. From Damascus the party proceeded to Beyrout. Here a very pleasant time was past. A few days later they de- parted for Smyrna. In entering the harbor of Smyrna, the travellers passed very close to Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos. The antiquities of Smyrna are few and uninteresting. A little stream, the Meles, flows back of the town ; upon * its banks Homer is said to have been born. The country around Smyrna is very poorly cultivated, and large por- tions of it are entirely neglected. The city contains a number of delightful gardens, in which the fig and orange grow with great luxuriance. The next point visited by the travellers was Constan- tinople. The steamer rounded the Seraglio Point, and swee})ing- into the bold expanse which the Bosphorus forms opposite the city, dropped anchor off the mouth of the Golden Horn. The first step ujion the shore reminds one that he is in the East. The costume is oriental, the lan- guage has nothing in its syllables or sounds that resemble the proven9al tongues, and there appears to be an air of luxurious enjoyment and repose in all around, that con- trasts strikingly with the anxious air of the busy popula- tions of the cities of Western Europe. Almost touching the water was a cafe, cooled by a foun- tain, and the umbrageous boughs of the wide-spreading TOUU AROUND THE WORLD. i:i9 platamis tree. Lounging on divans were a number of Turks, with white turbans and long beards, smoking the nargile, or water-pipe, and seeking nervous excitement in frequent draughts q^ coffee, or in the inhalation of the intoxicating fumes of hashish. Near by was a beautiful fountain, erected by some kind Turk who was seeking en- trance into the Mussulman heaven by doing good to man, and a mosque from the minarets of which the muezzin was calling the faithful to prayer. " There is no god but God, and Mohammed is His prophet," was the cry that was float- ino- on the air as the travellers landed. EXTLRIOR VIEW OF A TURKISH HOLSE. The interior of Constantinople by no means corresponds with the expectations which one is led to entertain from the splendor of its appearance as seen from the Bosj^horus. The streets are narrow, and paved with stones which appear as though they had been scattered at random, simply to cover the nakedness of the earth. The houses are of wood, and so wretchedly built, that they afford but little shelter against the elements. Fires at Constantinople, where the 340 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. buildings are of frame, are, of course, very destructive,, sometimes sweeping away squares of houses at a time. There are two lofty towers w^hicli overlook the city, where the watchmen are stationed night and day to sound the alarm of fire ; but a conflagration rarely breaks out which does not destroy a square of buildings. The Turks will sometimes make an effort to arrest the flames, but if over- mastered, they will quietly fold their arms, and exclaiming INTERIOR VIKW <»K A il KKISll ll()l>ir: '^ Allah kerlm,'' "God is oreat," leave thinns to their course. When General Grant reached Constantinople his first visit was paid to the Sultan, who immediately ordered Mu- nir Bey, the Master of Ceremonies, to present to the Gen- eral an Arab horse from the imperial stables. One was chosen and set aside for him, but, owing to some misunder- standing, the gift horse was not sent, and the " VandaHa" sailed without him. Afterwards, the steed in question was found, and, accompanied by a second horse, was trans- ferred to the care of the oflficers of the American Leo-ation. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 341 They were shipped on board the " Norman Monarch." They were housed between the decks, provided with canvas belts to swing in in rough weather, and in every way treated as cabin passengers, a man being detailed to care for them. They are said to have endured the long voyage without showing any signs of discomfort or fatigue, and were de- scribed by one of the prominent horsemen at Suffolk Park as being in perfect trim and models of beauty. They are in many important respects very unlike the blooded xVmerican horse. Our next visit was to the bazaars. These consist of a long range of shops running parallel with each other, with an intervening paved avenue dividing the two rows ; the avenue is covered over. There are numerous bazaars, each, division being aj^propriated to the sale of different objects. There is the silk bazaar, the provision bazaar, the arm ba- zaar, etc. The purchaser is not, therefore, obliged to wan- der through the whole range of bazaars to seek the object of his wants, but at once goes to a particular bazaar and finds it. The shops are very small, and contain but scanty stocks ; but there is a great number of them, which may, in some degree, compensate for the lack of quantity in their stock. The next point visited was the Mosque of the Sultan Ahmed. The exterior walls of this, as the walls of all other mosques, are painted white. From the centre rises a hemispherical dome, and at the four corners of the build- ing shoot up tall minarets, the points of which, tipped with gold, appear lost in the air. Passing through an open court-yard, we came to the portal of the mosque. AVe pulled off our boots, slid our feet into yellow slippers, the color worn only by the faithful, removed our hats, and en- tered. The interior was very plain ; the floor was spread with rich carpets, and variously-colored glass lamps, like 342 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. those in public gardens, were suspended around the walls, with here and there an ostrich-egg, the offering of some pious devotee. A j^ulpit of carved wood faced the east. Several Turks were prostrating themselves in prayer upon the carpets, the countenance turned to the sacred east. From the floor to the ceili7ig the breadth and width of the great space beneath the roof was unbroken by a gallery or any other object. The roof rested upon arches which sprang from the walls. Tins great void, with the over- hanging roof unsustained by a single pillar, had a most majestic effect, and I have rarely seen boldness and sim- plicity of architecture so happily combined as in this mosque. The walls were naked of ornaments, with the exception of a rude drawing of the Caaba at Mecca. THE ACROPOLIS AT ATHENS. In the centre of the court-yard of the mosque was a beautiful fountain, ornamented with that light tracery work which is characteristic of Saracenic architecture. An im- mense number of pigeons had assembled there at that time to be fed, as some kind Mussulman had left a legacy to procure grain for the daily feeding of the pigeons which TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 343 belonged to the mosque. They nearly covered the yard, and children were walking about in the midst of them, without causing them the least alarm. Such is the friend- ship between man and the brute creation in Mussulman countries. The next point of interest was the city of Athens. Among the points visited by the travellers was the Acrop- olis, on whose summit the ruins of the Parthenon even now command the admiration of every beholder. At its foot is the theatre of Bacchus, where Demosthenes was crowned. A visit was also j^aid to Mars' Hill, where Paul ^^reached to the people, declaring " unto them Him whom they ignorantly worshipped, the Lord of heaven and earth, who dwelleth not in temples made with hands, and whose Godhead was not like gold, or silver, or stone graven by art and man's device." From Athens the j^arty proceeded to Corinth. The city is surrounded by a wall with embrasures for cannon. There were but few pieces of cannon on the walls. We observed, however, some long twenty-four-pounders, richl3r ornamented with the Venetian arms, which had remained in the fortress since its capture by the Turks. After a few days spent in rambling over the old historic grounds in the vicinity of the city, and viewing all places of interest iu the city itself, the travellers departed for Syracuse. A short visit was made at the latter point, after which they proceeded to Rome, where they expected to meet certain friends who had promised to be there, 22 CHAPTER XXL THE ETEKNAL CITY ROMAN HONORS VENICE GENOA THEY RETURN TO PARIS HOLLAND DUTCH FESTIVITIES BER- LIN A VISIT TO BISMARCK REVIEWING THE TROOPS — COPENHAGEN — THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN PASSES OF THE BLACK FOREST SWEDEN AND NORWAY PETERHOF, THE VERSAILLES OF ST. PETERSBURG AN INTERVIEW WITH PRINCE GORTSCHAKOFF ST. PETERSBURG KRONSTADT, THE PORT OF ST. PETERSBURG AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CZAR OF ALL THE RUSSIAS MOSCOW WARSAW EN ROUTE FOR SPAIN. Continuing liis journey along the shores of the Medi- terranean, General Grant visited the beautiful cities which dot the coast, beholding the beautiful works of art, and receiving honors from the high and the low. During his stay in Rome, King Humbert gave him a magnificent dinner, at which all the Italian Ministers were present. Speeches were made, toasts drank, and every one seemed determined that the General should enjoy himself. Flor- ence was reached on the 16th of April. The party were received at the station by the municipal authorities, the American Consul, Mr. J. Schuyler Crosby, deputations of the Italian army, and the American residents. Here they remained several days, visiting j^laces of interest and greatly enjoying themselves. During their stay they visited the art galleries of the Uffizi and Pitti palaces, and also attended the religious ceremonies of Holy Saturday. (344) TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 345 The distinguished party reached Venice on the 22d of April. At the station Mr. John Harris, several American residents, and the officials of the city met them and ex- tended the same courteous welcome that had greeted them everywhere. Several days were spent enjoying the honors and seeing the sights of this strange city. Leaving Venice the party proceeded to Milan, where they arrived on the 27th. The customary welcome awaited them, and the many sights which cluster here were seen to the best advantage. The Cathedral is still the public, commercial, social, and religious nucleus of Milan, though the Piazza is very different now from the former surroundings of the Church, where the merchants of old gathered, and the nobles mar- shalled themselves, and the people fought for bread during the famines that succeeded the plague in the sixteenth cen~ tury, as is told in Manzour's novel of " The Betrothed." Despite the first impression — some one has called this white-marble Cathedral a church of lace-work — the Church strikes the eye as defective after a few moments' observation, and I never could admire it so unreservedly as most travellers think themselves bound to do. It lacks height, as even its highest pinnacle is not worthy to be called a spire ; and its heavy, square-topped, Kenaissance portals, and indeed the whole fa9ade, are distressingly out of keeping with the rest of the florid Gothic design. The ceiling is also another blemish and disappointment, being painted in imitation of stone-work, and the sham is very transparent. Setting aside these details, there is much that is inter- esting, both in the way of monuments and pictures ; but two of the most curious specialties, neither of which is men- tioned in the latest guide-books, are the seven-branched, gilt-bronzed candelabrum, standing in the right transept 34(, LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. on a sculptured pedestal of Sienna marbb, with the Virgin and Child carved on the shaft, and the branches adorned with foliage and miniature statues ; and the colossal statue of St. Bartholomew in the rear of the choir and high altar, representing the apostle as flayed alive. The sculptor, Marco Agrato, was so proud of his work, that he recorded his satisfaction in Latin inscription to this effect: "Not Praxiteles, but Marcus Agratus, designed and executed me. Immediately in front of the choir-railings is a round opening, with lamps perpetually burning, an artistic rail- ing encircling it ; and through this we catch a glimpse of the subterranean shrine of St. Charles Borromeo, Arch- bishop of Milan in 1557. The plague broke out in the city during his lifetime, and he exposed himself personally in the most fearless way, encouraging the clergy to do their duty likewise. His nephew, Cardinal Frederick Borromeo, was his successor in the See, and inherited the same virtues. Manzoni gives an admirable portrait of him in "The Betrothed," as a contrast to the wretched Don Abbondio, the country parish priest ; both portraits being historical. The body of St. Charles lies in a glass case — the face uncovered, the flesh dried and brown like a mummy's ; the hands encased in episcopal embroidered gloves, and the body clothed in episcopal robes. The mitre and pillow under the head are one mass of gold and jewels, while scenes of the saint's life are chiselled on the silver lining of the walls, blackened by the torches constantly applied to them for the benefit of curious strangers. From Milan the party proceeded to Genoa. Here they received glad ovations. Its name was once the synonym of all that was haughty in politics, aristocratic in association, domineering in conunerce; but it has sadly fallen off*. ^ii:iiSi'}!i!iiiiiliii 347 348 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The old city, however, contains many gorgeous, compar- atively modern fanes, where gilding and show are quite in keeping with the original design of the builder. For instance, there is the dazzling Church of the Annunziata, about two hundred and fifty years old, with variegated marble floor ; forests of columns, all of different marbles ; chapels full of rich golden lamps, hanging from jewelled chains ; a roof, or rather ceiling, of great richness, divided into numberless panels by the costliest of carved and gilt work, each panel being a fresco representing a scene in the life of the Blessed Virgin. One of the modern — indeed, one might say recent — glories of Genoa, is the beautiful monument to Columbus, at the western extremity of the town, in a piazza by the railroad-station and the gardens of the Villa Doria. This has existed upwards of ten or fifteen years, and is the work of Genoese artists. The great discoverer is represented standing in the costume of a scholar of his day, leaning with one hand on an anchor, and his other hand on the shoulder of a kneeling Indian, crowned with feathers, and carrying a cross in his hand. At the four corners of the pedestal are several allegorical figures, life-size, and above them a circle of ships' prows and laurel wreaths, set alternately. Four bassi-relievi give scenes from his life, and on the lowest base of the monument, two flying genii uphold the simple inscrij^tion, "A Cristoforo Co- lombo, La Patria " — " His Country to Christopher Colum- bus." One cannot help thinking of what might have been the present position of Genoa, had she, as an independent State, listened to Columbus, and fitted out a fleet for him to explore the New World and conquer it in her name. The Italians of those days stood in the first rank among the nations of the world ; by their side the Spaniards, the 349 350 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Portuguese, tlie Germans, and the English were but unlet- tered barbarians. Her statesmen were acknowledged to be the masters of diplomacy ; her merchants were wealthier and more enterprising than any, and, at the same time, they were not mere traders, but men of culture and education ; generous patrons of art, competent critics of letters. Among the wealthy and public-spirited men who have lately died, was the Duke of Galliera, who left the city $4,000,000 for the imj^rovement of the harbor, on condition that the municipal government should advance the rest of the sum required to carry out the improvements. A large new mole is being built, and the present new mole length- ened, so that it will still continue to be the outer pier. In addition to this, quays by rails with the main line are pro- jected, with a view to enable the largest slii23s to unload without lighters. Leaving Genoa, General Grant and his party returned to Paris, which point was reached on the 7tli of May. At that time the Paris Exhibition was the uppermost topic of the city. On the 1 1th, General Grant accompanied by his wife and son visited the Exposition. He was received by Chief Commissioner McCormick and staff and by the Commissioners from the various States of the Union, Min- ister Noyes, Consul-General Torbert and wife, and the lead- ing ladies and gentlemen of the American colony in Paris. The American marines were drawn up in military array and gave the party a military salute on their arrival at the American section. The General and his party then ex- amined the whole American department in detail. Having remained in Paris little more than a month, General Grant and his party left the city for Holland, " to recuperate in a series of mild Dutch festivities from the mad whirl of festive Paris." Before his departure from Paris, General Grant took leave of President MacMahon. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 361 The meeting between the two soldiers was most interesting. The Marshal was very cordial, saying " France was hon- ored by the presence of so illustrious a general." The Marshal further stated that he had arranged to give a din- ner arndfete in honor of General Grant on the following Monday. This the General was compelled to decline be- cause of his engagements at the Hague. The Marshal hoped that General Grant would return in September, when he would give a special fete for him. The interview throughout was marked by the kindliest of feeling. When he was about to leave Paris, Mr. Young wrote : — He will tarry seven days in the land of the Dutch, and study it with uncommon interest. He will look for the children of the race of the Knickerbockers in their native wilds, and catch them smoking as only a contemplative Dutchman can smoke. The Dutch government, which had made extensive arrangements for his recej^tion, warmly welcomed him to the land of Schiedam Schnapps, and the visit was a very pleasant one. From Holland the party went to Germany. Berlin was reached Wednesday, the 26th of June. The late Bayard Taylor, at that time our Minister to Germany, met them at Stendahl, which was sixty miles distant, and escorted them to the German capital. Concerning the visit, a correspondent of the New York Herald says : — On the evening of his coming he walked along the Unter den Linden, and his Berlin visit may be summed up in this sentence — that he walked the greater part of each day. I do not think there is a quarter of Ber- lin which he has not explored on foot with an energy as sight-seer which no amount of exertion seems to diminish. There was an interview with Prince Gortschakoff, the General, in company with Mr. Taylor, calling at the Prince's request, as the gout prevented the Prince calling 352 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. on the General. Gortseliakoff said that Russia would be glad to see and welcome the General, and he seemed de- lighted with the visit. Of the members of the Congress, Lord Beaconsfield, Lord Salisbury, M. Waddington, and Count Corti were known to the General. Mehemet Ali he had met in Turkey. Visits were exchanged with these gentlemen, and with the other members of the Congress. Among the first cards left on the General was that of Prince Bismarck, and as it did not find him at home it was left again. As the General was anxious to see the Prince, for whose character and services he had so high an admi- ration, he returned these calls at once, and sent His High- ness a message, saying that he would make his visit at any time that would suit the Prince, whom he knew to be a busy and an ill man. The afternoon at four was the hour named for the visit, and as the General lives within a few moments' walk of the Bismarck palace, at five minutes to four he slowly sauntered through the Frederick place into the court-yard. The sen- tinels eye him a moment curiously and then present arms. His visit had been expected, but certainly an ex-President of the United States would come in a carriage and six and not quietly on foot. Throwing away a half-smoked cigar as he raises his hat in honor of the salute, he advances to the door, but before he has time to ring, two servants throw them open, and he passes into an open marble hall. Of all princes now living this is, perhaps, the most renowned — this of Bismarck-Schonhausen — who comes with a swinging, bending gait through the opened and opening doors with both hands extended to meet the General. You note that time has borne heavily on the Prince these past few years. The Prince wears an officer's uniform, and on taking the General's hand, he says, "Glad to welcome General Grant to Germany." TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 353 During the remainder of Grant's stay in Berlin he was constantly the recipient of distinguished honors. Prince Bismarck called on him and entertained him at a most sumptuous dinner. The Crown Prince ordered a general military review and sham hattle in his honor, which was a magnificent display, though a terrible rain-storm pelted the troops and the visitors during the entire time. Thus day after day the resources of the capital were taxed to do him service. The Emperor's health was in so precarious a condition that his physicians forbade him the pleasure of meeting the General, but all royal attentions other than this were bestowed lavishly by the highest officials of the Empire. Leaving Berlin, General Grant and his party set out for Copenhagen by the way of Hamburg. The latter place was reached on July 2d. A correspondent writing from this place says: There were strong temptations to re- main in Berlin, especially as Mr. Taylor seemed to make each hour of the stay more and more pleasant. But rumors were in the air of an unusual Fourth of July cele- bration, in which all the Americans were to take part, and the eagle was to have a glorious time screaming. I am afraid these rumors, and the apprehension on the General's part that he would be called upon to do his part in the glorification of our venerable bird, alarmed him, and he fled, to the disappointment of the orators, who were in severe training to entertain their guest. Hamburg was reached in due season, and the General dined quietly with the Consul, Mr. J. M. Wilson. There was the usual even- ing tramp about the city, and next morning a deputation of the Hamburg Senate called and welcomed the General. You know Hamburg, as one of the members of the old Hanseatic Confederation, is a free city, and governed by a Senate and a Burgomaster. Although a part of the mod- 354 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. ern machine of the German Empire, it retains its munic- ipal 251'ivileges, being, to all intents and purposes, a rej^ub- lic, as it has been for a thousand years. Hamburg is a very beautiful city, in some respects one of the most beau- tiful and best governed in Europe. There did not seem to be a stone out of place or a tree untrimmed. Hamburg gave itself up to the entertainment of the General with hearty good- will. On the morning after his arrival, he Avas taken by the Senators on board a small steamer, and made a tour of the docks and basins, and a small run into the Elbe. The ships had their bunting up in the friendliest manner, some English and American shi2:>s showing all their flags. The trip was 2:)leasant, not- withstanding the rain, which came and went like the tem- per of a capricious woman. In the evening there was a dinner given by the Senate, at the Zoological Gardens, the Burgomaster, Dr. Kirchenssauer, in the chair. Among the Senators present were Senators Oswald, Stamer, Mo- ring, and Hertze. The Burgomaster proposed the Gener- al's health in the kindest terms, speaking of the honor Hamburg received from his visit. The next day, being the Fourth of July, the General went down to the shoot- ing-box of James B. McDonald, the Vice-Consul, and sj^ent the afternoon walking about the woods and talking with American friends. Then came a dinner at a country hotel near by, about thirty Americans, ladies and gentle- men, present, and the Consul presiding. Mr. Wilson ])yo- posed the General's health as " the man who had saved the country." This toast was drank with cheers. The General made a speech in answer. Among other incidents of the visit was the appearance of a Prussian military band in front of the General's hotel window, at eight o'clock on the morning of the Fourth, and a serenade. A CASTLE IN GERMANY. 355 356 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. A few clays' stay in Copenhagen, and lie embarked for Sweden and Norway. His first touching-place was Goth- enburg, Sweden, and here, after a short trip across the Cat- tegat, he made his first acquaintance with the fiords of the old Norse peninsula. When he landed he was met by a crowd of over five thousand people, who cheered loudly for him of whom they had heard so much. The Swedes, who have emigrated in such large numbers to the United States, have spread his fame among their countrymen at home. The ships in the harbor were all decorated in his honor. He passed the day in Gothenburg, and then con- tinued his journey to Christiania. All the villages along the route were decorated, and his coming was made the occasion of a gala-day. He landed at Christiania on the 13th, and was received with great ceremony. Ten thousand people flocked to greet him. King Oscar II. came to Christiania from Stockholm to meet the General, and gave him a hearty welcome. The General set out sight-seeing, and was conducted to the old castle of Aggershuus, with its citadel and church, on the brow of a point jutting out into the fiord, over whose wind- ing shore-line and smooth waters, broken by wooded islands, it gives a fine view. He accompanied the King to Stockholm, where he was received with enthusiastic orations. Here he was tendered with a grand dinner at the Embassy, and in the evening was serenaded. Shortly after he started by way of the Baltic for St. Petersburg. A large crowd assembled and cheered him as he embarked. He reached St. Petersburg on the morning of July 30th. On arriving in the Russian capital he was met by Minister Stoughton, whose wonderful coronal of snowy locks never shone more magnificently over his rosy cheeks. The Emperor's aide-de-camp, Prince Gortschakoff', and TOUli AROUND THE WORLD. 351 other high officials of the Imperial Court, called immedi- ately, welcoming the ex-President in the name of the Czar. On the following day General Grant had an audience with the Emperor Alexander, which was of a pleasant nature. The imperial yacht conveyed the General to Peterhof, the Versailles of St. Petersburg. It is fifteen miles from the A MOUNTAIN-PASS IN NORWAY. capital, but it has one advantage over the old French royal extra-mural residence in that the imperial palace there has almost unrivalled views over Cronstadt and the Gulf of Finland, and of the capital itself The fountains were played in honor of the visit. Subsequently, General Grant visited the great Russian man-of-war Peter the Great. The band played American airs and a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired. The imperial yacht then steamed slowly among the Russian fleet lying off Cron- stadt, the ships running out American colors and the sailors cheering. During his visit to St. Petersburg, General Grant had an interview with the Czar. The Emperor manifested 358 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. great cordiality. The General was presented by Prince Gortscliakoft'. His Majesty talked of his health and the General's travels. He seemed greatly interested in our national wards, the Indians, and made several inquiries as to their mode of warfare. At the close of the interview the Emperor accompanied General Grant to the door, saying : " Since tlie foundation of your government, the relations between Kussia and America have been of the friendliest char- acter, and as long as I live nothing shall be spared to continue that friendship," The General answered that, although the two govern- ments were directly o]3posite in character, the great major- ity of the American people were in sympathy with Russia, and would, he hoped, so continue. At the station General Grant met the Grand Duke Alexis, who was very cordial, recalling with pleasure his visits to America. A visit was also made to the great Chancellor, Prince GortschakofP, with whom the General spent some hours smoking and discussing American and European affairs. The Czarowitz also received General Grant at special audience. The French Ambassador gave a dinner to the General, and there was a special review of the fire-brigade in his honor. The attentions of the Emperor and the authorities were so marked, that he j^rolonged his stay several days. On the 8th, he left for Moscow, and reached the an- cient capital on the 9th. He dined with Prince DogorofP on the 10th. A visit was paid to the Cathedral of St. Basil, which is said to be the nicest " building the ingenuity of man could devote to the service of his Maker. There are no less than twenty towers and domes, all of different shapes and sizes, and painted in every possible color; some are covered with a network of green over a surface TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. of yellow, another dome is a bright red with broad white stripes, and a third is gilded ! Some historians affirm that it was built to commemorate the capture of Kazan ; others, that it was a whim of Ivan the Terrible, to try how many distinct chapels could be erected under one roof, on a given extent of ground, in such a manner that Divine service could be ^lerformed in all simultyiieously without any in- CATHEDEAL OF ST. BASIL, MOSCOW. terference one with another. It is also said that the Czar was so delighted with the architect, an Italian, who had thus admirably gratified his wishes, that when the edifice was finished he sent for him, pronounced a warm 2:)ane- gyric on his work, and then had his eyes j^ut out, in order that he might never build such another! A strange caprice of cruelty, if true — punishing the man, not for failing, but succeeding, in gratifying his emj^loyer. 23 360 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. General Grant reached Warsaw on the loth. After a brief vStay here, he passed on to Vienna, where lie arrived on Sunday, August 18th. At the railroad station he was met by Minister Kasson, the secretaries and members of the American Legation, and a large number of the Amer- ican residents. He was loudly cheered as he stepj)ed out of the railway-carriage. On the 19th, the General was visited at the Legation of the United States by Count Andrassy, the First Minister of the Council, and several colleagues. In the evening, he dined Avith the Countess and Mrs. Grant at Post's. On the 20th, he had an audience of His Imperial Majesty Francis Joseph at the lovely palace of Schoenbrunn. On the 22d, Minister Kasson gave a diplomatic dinner in honor of our ex-President, at which nearly all the foreign Ambassadors were present. The members of the Austro- Hungarian Cabinet attended the reception in the evening, and added to the attractiveness and brilliancy of the occa- sion. The General expressed himself greatly 23leased with Vienna ; thinks it a charming city. He was gratified also at the marked attentions of the Emperor's household, and the earnest endeavor shown to honor him as a citizen of the United States. On the following Monday he left for Steirmart. After a short stop here, and a ramble through other Austrian cities and towns, he returned to Paris on the 25th of Sep- tember. He was met at the station by Minister Noyes, ex-Governor Fairchild, ex-Governor McCormick, and other American officials. The General was in excellent health and spirits, and had experienced so little fatigue during his journey that, after dining en famille, he strolled along the boulevards for more than two hours. CHAPTER XXTI. A MESSAGE FROM THE KING OF SPAIN — SAN SEBASTIAN — VITTORIA MEETING BETWEEN GENERAL GRANT AND THE SPANISH KING THE DEAD QUEEN OF SPAIN MADRID, THE CAPITAL THE ESCURIAL, THE PALACE OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN THE LIBRARY THROUGH THE ROYAL APART- MENTS DISAPPOINTED EXPECTATIONS THE TOMB — PHILIP. It was the intention of General Grant, wlien he left Paris, to make a short visit to the Pyrenees, and especially Pan. Bnt when he came to Borcleanx he was met hy a message from the King of Spain, who was at the time at Vittoria, directing the manoeuvres of his troops, and wl]o especially requested that the General would honor him with a visit. If there is one thing the General dislikes it is re- viewing troops; but the message from the King was so cordial that it could hardly be declined. Accordingly Pan was postponed, and the General went on as far as Biarritz, meanino; to rest over nio;ht and cross the frontier next day. Resuming their journey, the little town of Irun, which is just over the frontier, afforded the first glimpse of Spanish life and character. Its neat railway-station was dra])ed with flags and bunting, and on the platform wtis a group of ofiicers of the Royal Guard, standing apart from those privileged citizens who had been admitted within the bar- riers. Beyond, clearly seen through the gates and station windows, struggling for a view of the distinguished visitor, were the villagers and the country people, who, denied (361) 362 LIFE OF GENERAL GRx\NT. admission to the yard, were none the less active in their demonstrations of curiosity. As the train drew up at the platform, General Grant alighted from his carriage. The ranking officer of the delegation, a general on the staft' of Alfonso XII., advanced and, saluting the visitor, welcomed him, in the King's name, to the Iberian peninsula. He stated that he was directed by His Majesty to place at the General's disposal the special railway-carriage of the King, and to beg an acceptance of the same. General Grant exj^ressed his thanks in a few words and accepted the proffered courtesy. The train moved out of the little village towards the war- begrimed city of San Sebastian — the last stronghold of the Carlists. At San Sebastian General Grant was received by Emilio Castelar, ex-President of the Spanish Rej^ublic. To the well-known statesman and journalist, General Grant was exceedingly cordial. He concluded his remarks by say- ing : " Believe me, sir, the name of Castelar is especially honored in America." Here, as at Irun, were gathered many jieople to see General Grant, and he was j^resented to the town officials and the distinguished citizens. The contracted harbor reflected the green of the tree-covered hills that encircle it so nearly, and beyond the cone-like isle at its mouth was the sheen of the noonday sun on the Bay of Biscay. Leaving this place the road leads southward towards Tolosa and Vergara. At both of these stations a squad of soldiers was stationed. The usual military guard had been doubled in honor of the American General. After wind- ing about the hills beyond the station of Tolosa the train suddenly leaves the defiles behind and smoothly skirts the side of a great hill, giving the occupants of the carriages a grand view to the southward. Near at hand are seeu the TOUR AROUND THE AVOHLD. £63 peaks of the Pyrenees — only the extreme western t^pur of the range, however. When General Grant reached Vittoria, there were all the authoxities out to see him, and he was informed that in the morning the King would meet him. Ten o'clock was the hour, and the place was a small city hall or jndace, where the King resides when he comes into his capital. At ten the General called, and was escorted into an ante- room, where were several aids and generals in attendance. He passed into a small room, and wa*s greeted by the King. The room was a library, with books, and a writing-table covered with jiapers, as though His Majesty had been hard at work. His Majesty is a young man, twenty j^ast, with a frank, open face, side whiskers and moustache like down. He was in the undress uniform of a captain-general, and had a buoyant, boyish way about him which made one sorrow to think that on these young shoulders should rest the burdens of sovereignty. How much lie would have given to liave gone into the green fields for a romp and a ramble — those green fields that look so winsome from the window. It was only yesterday that he was among his toys and velocipedes, and here he is a real king, with a uniform showing that he ranks with the great generals of the world, heavily braided with bullion. Alfonso speaks French as though it was his own tongue, German and Spanish fluently, but not so well, and English with good accent, but a limited vocabulary. When the General entered, the King gave him a seat, and they entered into conversation, which was of the most friendly character. The King was lavish in his praises of the General's mili- tary career, and the General was tenderness itself in speak- ing of the King's recent loss of his charming young wife. Leaving Vittoria, General Grant proceeded to Madrid, where the General was welcomed on behalf of the King by 864 IJFE OF GENERAL GKANT. the civil authorities, and especially by Colonel Noeli, a Spanish officer of distinction, who was detailed to attend him. The King had not arrived, but w^as in the north visiting Espartero, and reviewing his conscripts. Mr. Lowell gave the General a dinner and a reception, where men of all parties came to pay their respects to the ex^ President. A visit to Spain without seeing the Escurial would cer- tainly be incomplete. Regarding it thus, General Grant resolved to pay it a visit. The road from Madrid to the Escurial is somewhat dreary and desolate. It is described as follows : — Rocks rise above rocks in broken, fissured masses over a barren, stony plain. Stones, mountains of stones, break and fall in the most fantastic, gloomy sliajies. In all directions they rise and sweep and fall, and y<)u seem to be tugging through a world of desolation — a world of silence and death. Rocks, granite rocks, ridge heaped on ridge, corrugated, flowing irregular, stern. Deep fissures show now and then a shapeless shrub, craving the dew and the sunshine, striving to justify its forlorn exist- ence. No life, no sign of life, no beast, or bird, or buzzing insect — only the rocks that tumble over the horizon — only the rocks and a cold wind that blows from the snow- wreathed hills. Suddenly there is a vast gray building, with a high dome and turrets — a prodigious building that frowns upon you, as it were, it is so cold and vast. There, m its vastness and grandness, its solitude and loneliness, stands the Escurial. It seems, he continues, to leap out of the desolation and array itself against the rano-e of cruel towerins; cra2;s which hover over it — a child of the nature which surrounds it, an epitome of the wild, harsh, lonely land through which we have been tugging — a gigantic hill, severe, without beauty or majesty, with strength and purpose. TOUPt AROUND THE WORLD. 3R5 Tlie joarty visiting the building at this time consisted of General and Mrs. Grant, James Russell Lowell, our jNIinis- ter, and his wife ; Colonel Noeli, the Spanish soldier and gentleman-in-waiting on the General, and Mr. Young. A visitor describes the visit to the Escurial in the fol- lowing words : — You come to the Escurial station, and de- scend. We come under the shadow of the monastery, and walk over a stony esj^lanade to the gate. A courteous offi- cer of the royal household awaits us, and attendants in a portentous royal livery — grave, elderly men, with staves — greet us as we enter. The door clangs back, and we are in a w^ide, square court-yard of stone. Walls, window- facings, arches, eaves, pavements, columns, all stone. We were escorted into the royal apartments, for kings have lived here, although not as in Philip's day. What we see are a series of rooms, rooms running into rooms, plainly furnished, with some exceptions. The tapestry is worth studying, and perhaps we should study it, but Gen- eral Grant, who has no eye for tapestry, w^ould be quite as well pleased with wall-23aper, and ^^ushes on to the win- dows, where he can see something growing, and beyond wdiich you may not only see the rocky hills, but a garden that has been ravaged from the rocks. As you look from the window, up against the hill, you are shown a re- cess — two or three rocks formed like a chair — where Philip was wont to sit and brood over his gridiron as it grew into shape. We are reminded that it would be well worth climbing up the hill and sitting in Philip's seat. But the way is long and the ascent is rough, and a cold wind is blowing, and one can see as much of the Escurial as he Avants without encountering pneumonia. The tapes- try represents *pictures of Goya and Teniers, and goes back to the time of Charles III. and Charles IV. Charles III. was almost good enough, as king, to have been a President SG6 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. of the United States, and lie is, perhaps, the only one since Charles V. who could have stood the tests of a candidature, and he did many things to improve Spain, to restore her palaces, and add to her prosperity. The only rooms that rise to royal value are a suite of four chambers in a corner, which were occupied by Isabella. I do not think there are four more beautiful rooms in the world. The walls are in- laid with rare woods ; the floors, the window-sills, every portion, has been as carefully decorated as though they had been the masterpieces of Cellini. There was a table, on which Isabella was wont to write her letters and procla- mations, a gem of decoration, as perfect as a picture. The whole is in exquisite taste, and shows lavish exj^ense and extreme care in workmanship. The cost of the rooms alone is set down at $1,400,000. I did not learn under which king this was done, but presume it was Charles IV. Philip never sj)ent so much money on wood-carving. He ke]3t it for relics and stone. AYe were then taken to the library. A polite attendant escorted us into the room, which looked warm and cosy, really the only living room in the Escurial. There were pictures — Philip with his snake eyes, Charles with his drooling, drooping jowl ; Charles I. in armor, and one of the third Philip, almost as great a fool as Charles 11. , with a weak but human face. The floors of this library are marble, and the walls are gayly colored, and you ob- serve that the edges of the books are turned towards you, and not the backs. There seemed to be no reason for this, but it had always been the custom in the Escurial. You observed, however, that the names of the books were printed on the edges in light letters, and so for all useful purposes the books are as accessible as if the backs were towards you. The library has shifted backward and for- ward, and during one of the shiftings, when the later Fer- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 307 dinand was king, about ten thousand volumos were lost. What became of them no one knows. It is not polite to ask questions of a king. It must have ])een a rare library in its day, especially in works of chivalry and theology. I ran along some of the shelves, as our party was pattering about the room, but they seemed mostly works of fathers' and commentaries on the faith. We were shown some prayer-books and missals — the real book from which Philip sang and prayed — well thumbed, and the prayer- books of others of the family. There were also some Arabic manuscripts, said to be of great value, but not at- tractive to any of our party. Somehow the church is not what we expected. It is only space. We note as we are standing on the altar step that above us, on the right and the left, are two groups of statues, effigies in bronze and gilt, which look so precious that we wonder the Frenchmen did not try their hammers upon them. On the left side, looking towards the altar, kneeling, with hands clasped in prayer and eyes fixed on the crucifix, is Charles V. His wife, daughter, and two sisters kneel with him. Opposite is Philip IL, also kneel- ing, his hands clasped in prayer. Philip has three of his wives with him and one of his children, the unhappy Don Carlos. One wife is missing — Mary of England. After the Armada and the strange lapses that England was then making from the holy faith, I presume jNIary was not wor- thy, even though she had been the spouse of so mighty a king, to be admitted into these holy precincts. This is the nearest approach that the makers of the Escurial permitted in the way of human pride. I suppose it is hardly fair to call it pride, for certainly there is a moral in these effigies, a moral to all Avho worship — that no king is so mighty but that he must kneel before God ; kneel and plead for his soul's salvation like the meanest beggar. 368 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. You will remember that this gracious King, who now rests with God, and whose bones are now mouldering in the vaults beneath our feet, had a passion for relics. The bone of a saint delighted him more than the capture of a citadel, and he felt more joy over the possession of a rem- nant of the cross than over the victory of Lepanto. Kings must have their whims, and Philip had his. The Escnrial is something more than a palace. It is a school, a church, and a tomb. When Charles V. was about to leave his throne, he charged his son to build a royal tomb worthy of the kings of Spain. So Philip com- bined two vows, one to his father and the other to St. Law- rence of the Gridiron, and the result is the Escurial. Under the church — directly under the altar, so that when the priest raises the host, at the moment of elevation, he stands immediately over the sepulchre — this tomb was built. Our way down was over smooth steps of marble and jasper, so smooth that we were warned to walk warily. The room is dark, and the attendants carry tapers, which throw a glimmering light. It was Philip's idea to have the tomb severely plain, in keeping with the Escurial, but his son added marbles and bronzes and other decorations, and you note that the room is one of splendor. It is an octagon, thirty-six feet in diameter and thirty-eight feet high. There is a chandelier, bronze angels, a large crucifix, quite life-size, and an altar before which a lamp burns. The monarchs rest in shelves, four shelves in a row one over the other, each range separated from the other by double columns in bass-relief, with Corinthian caps. The decora- tions are elaborate, out of keej^ing with the Escurial, and not seemly in a tomb. There were twenty-six compart- ments, all of them filled with coffins, but many of the coffins wanting in occupants. The coffins are ready, and if the monarchy lasts there are enough for generations of kings. TO UK AIIOUND THE WOULD. 369 But before we say farewell to the Escurial, let us pay a A'isit to the home of the great King who founded it. AVe pass up a stairway and enter a small cell paved with brick. There is a larger room adjoining. In one of the cells Philip lived and died, in the other attendants awaited his will. A window of the cell opens into the church, and the King, as he lay on his pallet, could fix his eyes on the priest at mass, on the Sacred Host as it typified the act of expiation, on the kneeling statue of his father. This is what it all came to — this ruler of many continents — nothing but this dingy cell, into which no light comes, an old man, in agony and fear and self-reproach, dreading, wondering, trembling, over the brink of his fate, hoping that prayer and song and sorrow and priestly intercessions may save his soul. The rooms are as Philip left them, if we except the necessary cleaning and scrubbing. There is a faded tapestry on the wall, in which you trace the royal arms of Austria — his father's arms. There is a monk's chair on which Philip sat to receive ambassadors and ministers ; two j)lain, stuffed, wooden chairs, where they could sit in his royal presence if he so willed. The floors are of plain brick, trampled and worn. Here was the end of his royalty and pomp. Here he died in misery, and with him the greatness of Spain, if it can be called great- ness, which I much question. Philip was the last of the Spanish kings. In him was embodied all that went to make a king — divine right, absolute power, indifference to human suffering, fanaticism, bigotry, subserviency to the darkest forms of mediseval superstition. He was the last of the kings, and it seems j^oetic in its justice tliat he should die as he did — that he should leave behind him this stupendous trophy of his character and his name. Grateful is the sunshine, grateful the growing elms under which we walk back to our stopping-place. It is like coming out of the seventeenth into the nineteenth century. CHAPTER XXIII. GRANT VISITS TOLEDO THE CATHEDRAL THE WORK OF THE MOORS PAU FOX-HUNTING AN EXCITING OCCASION THE START THE MEET THE FINISH LISBON MEETING THE KING OF PORTUGAL — LITERARY EFFORTS — CINTRA MONTSERRAT PORTUGAL VS. SPAIN. During their sojourn in Spain, General Grant and bis party visited Toledo. Toledo is a graveyard, where are funeral monuments of all the civilizations of Spain. You walk through its streets with the melancholy interest which death inspires. All about you is so still and dead and bushed. Clinging to its rocky steep, looking out over the stripped hills of Castile, its turrets seen from afar, it seems to have been forgotten by the world, to be a decoration or a gem fastened to the world's bosom, and not a tangible, living part of earth. It is on the banks of a river whose waters might carry merchandise to the sea. It is the centre of a rich dis- trict. Madrid lying on one side, however, and Seville on the other, have drained the currents of its prosperity, and it lies stranded, interesting only because of the memorable events tliat have occurred within its walls. At their famous cathe- dral the General was shown an accumulation of silver and gold altar ornaments. Since an attempted robbery in 1868, the Virgin, with all valuable things, is kept guarded, and it was a special honor to General Grant that we were allowed to see them. Even then we were admitted into the (370) TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 371 room with the utmost precaution, and attendant priests kept watchful eyes, lest the temptation to walk off with a handful of pearls would be too strong. There were vest- ments which we looked at until we grew weary and yearned for the sunshine. Nothing is more grateful than to wander into a cathedral, to lose yourself as it were in its recesses, to study out the old inscriptions, to drink in the inspiration of the pious men who reared it ; to think of the eternity it represents, standing for ages — unchanged, unchanging — the^ temple of the same God, the home of the same undy- ino- faith. How the world sinks from you, and you are in the presence of God! Nothing could be more grateful. But to be shown a cathedral, to be handed about by ])riests and vergers, poking a braid or a bone or a faded cloth at you, mumbling legend after legend, in a mechanical, auc- tioneer fashion — nothing can be more distressing. And it was with something of the spirit of men in flight that we escaped into the grateful air. From this point the journey was continued to Pau, where a snow-storm greeted the arrival. Pau is so much an English colony that fox-hunting has become an institution. The Pau hunt is under the mastership of the Earl of Howth. This gentleman conies to Pau for reasons of health, and has taken the master- ship, to the great satisfaction of all the residents. Lord Howth has presented two packs of hounds to the hunt, and oives o-reat attention to all the details of the meeting. The presence in Pau of so distinguished a nobk>man, famous for his intelligent interest in manly sports, has added greatly to the value of the hunt. A good deal had been heard of the General's horsemanship, and people were curious to see how he would follow the hounds, but he had little interest in the sport, which the bad condition of the ground seriously hindered. 372 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. From Pau ihey v>eui to Lisbon, arriving on the last day of October. Says Mr. Young of the King : The King of Portugal, Don Luis I., is a young man in the fortieth year of his age, second cousin to the Prince of Wales, who is three years his junior, and between whom there is a marked resemblance. The Queen is the youngest sister of the present King of Italy. The King's father is Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg, cousin of the late Prince Consort of England. His first wife, the mother of the King, died many years since. His second wife, now liv- ing, is an American lady from Boston, named Henzler, and is called the Countess d'Edla. One of the King's sisters is wife to the second son of the King of Saxony, the other, wife to Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, whose election to the throne of Spain by Prim was one of the causes of the war between Germany and France. In the way of revenue the King is paid $405,000 a year and the Queen $66,600. The eldest son, heir-apparent, is now fifteen years old, and $22,200 is his salary. The second son is only thirteen years old, and receives $11,100. The King's father is paid $111,000 annually, and his brother, a young man of thirty-one, is general in the army and has a salary of $17,750 per annum. When you add the King's great aunt, an old lady of seventy-seven, who is paid $22,- 200, you have the whole royal family, with their incomes, amounting in the aggregate to something over $650,000 a year. The King, on learning that General Grant had arrived in Lisbon, came to the city to meet him. There was an audience at the palace, the General and his wife meeting the King and Queen. The King, after greeting the Gen- eral in the splendid audience chamber, led him into an inner apartment, away from the Ministers and courtiers who were in attendance on the ceremony. TOUR AROUND THE WOULD. 373 The day after the palace reception was the King's birth- day, and there was a gala-night at the opera. The King and royal femily came in state, and during the interludes the General had a long conversation with His jMajesty. The next evening there was a dinner at the palace in honor of the General, the Ministry and the leading men of the court in attendance. The King conversed with the Gen- eral about other themes — wanted him to go with him and shoot. It seems the King is a famous shot. But the Gen- eral's arrangements left him no time to accept this cour- tesy. It seems the King is a literary man, and having trans- lated "Hamlet" into Portuguese, the conversation ran into literary themes. The King said he hoped to finish Shake- speare, and make a complete translation into Portuguese. He had finished four of the plays — " Hamlet," "Mer- chant of Venice," " Macbeth," and " Kichard III." " Othel- lo " was under way, and already he had finished the first act. The question was asked as to whether His JMajesty •did not find it difficult to translate such scenes as that be- tween Hamlet and the grave-diggers — almost dialect con- versations — into Portuguese. The King said he thought this was, perhaps, the easiest part. It was more difficult to render into Portuguese the grander portions, where the poetry attained its highest flight. "The Merchant of Venice " he liked extremely, and " Richard III." was, in some respects, as fine as any of Shakespeare's plays. "What political insight !" said the King; "what insight into motives and character this play contains! " Finally, Don Fernando gave us a pressing invitation to visit his palace at Cintra. A visit to Cintra was down in our programme, but the King's invitation put the palace at our disposal, a privilege rarely given. Cintra is about fifteen miles from Lisbon, and we were compelled to go 374 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. early in the morning. Our party included tlie General and his wife, Mr. Dimon, our Consul ; Viscount Pernes and Mr. Cunha de Maier, formerly Portuguese Consul- General in the United States, and author of a history of the United States in Portuguese. Mr. Moran, our Minis- ter, was unable to join us on account of indisposition. The drive was attractive, through a rolling, picturesque country, with cool breezes coming in from the sea that made over- coats pleasant. Cintra is one of the famous spots in Europe, but when one speaks of it he turns almost by instinct to " Childe Harold." You will find Byron's majestic stanzas describing Cintra in the first canto : — The horrid crags, by toppling convent crowned, The cork-trees hoar that clothe the shaggy steep. The mountain moss by scorching skies imbrowned, The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must creep, The tender azure of the unruffled deep, The orange tints that gild the greenest bough, The torrents that from clifi' to valley leap. The vine on high, the willow branch below. Mixed in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow. Then slowly climb the many-winding way, And frequent turn to linger as you go. From loftier rocks new loveliness survey. And rest ye at " Our Lady's House of Woe," "Where frugal monks their little relics show, And sundry legends to the stranger tell ; Here impious men have punished been, and lo ! Deep in yon cave Honorias long did dwell. In hope to merit heaven by making earth a hell. Nearly seventy years have passed since Byron visited Cintra, and the picture is as perfect now as when drawn. It seemed odd indeed to find a place as you had imag- ined it! TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 275 Montserrat, the former home of Beckford, whom Byron calls " England's wealthiest son," was visited also. Beck- ford's most elegant and costly house came into the pos- session of a wealthy English merchant named Cook, but upon whom the King has lately conferred the title of Vis- count of Montserrat. Mr. Cook has spent a vast sum of money upon the house and grounds. The house is in the Oriental style — a long parallelogram in the centre, with two oval wings, and all surrounded with columns and bal- conies from which you can look out upon the valley, the plains that sweep towards the sea, the sea alone breaking the horizon. The grounds, however, are among the finest in Europe for the value and rarity of the plants, and the care with which all is preserved. Notwithstanding its beauty Mr. Cook only spends two months of the year at Montserrat. His other months are spent in England man- aging his affairs. There is an old royal palace to be seen, which was the Alhambra of the Moors in their day of triumph. The kings of Portugal lived here before the discovery of America, and one of the legends goes back to a century before that time. The palace is a large, straggling building, with many chambers, and as it is no longer used as a royal residence, the General was curious to know why it could not be rented as a summer boarding- house, and made to contribute to the revenues of the King. In its day it was, no doubt, a pleasant home ; but with the three or four vast palaces in Lisbon and its suburbs, pal- aces with modern comforts, the old Moorish castle can Avell be kept as one of the monuments of the nation. We walked and drove around Cintra village. General Grant was so charmed with the place that he regretted he could not remain longer. There was a royal engagement bidding him to Lisbon. So we dined at Victor's Hotel, and as the night shadows came down bundled into our 24 376 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. carriages for the long drive home. The air was clear, the skies were bright, and it was pleasant to bound over the stony roads and watch the brown fields ; to pass the tav- erns, where peasants were laughing and chatting over their wine ; to roll into the city and feel the breezes from the river as we came to our hotel. We had made a long jour- ney, and the hills we climbed made it fatiguing. But no one spoke of fatigue, only of the rapturous beauty which we had seen. Cintra itself is Avorth a long journey to see, and to be remembered, when seen, as a dream of Paradise. Contrasting Portugal with Spain, one of the traveliers says : — The contrasts between the Portuguese and Spanish character are more marked than would be supposed. And yet it is difficult to select a type of the Spanish character as described in the romances. There is no such thing as Spain. The differences between the provinces of Spain, in language, character, tradition, origin, are greater than be- tween the Spaniard and the Englishman. Spain is com- posed of various provinces — Biscay, Galicia, Navarre, the Asturias, Leon, Castile, Aragon, Catalonia, Valencia, Mur- cia, La Mancha, Estramadura, and Andalusia. The Basque is a type totally distinct from every other in SjDain — (Us- tinct in every sense. The difference between the blue- eyed, industrious Catalan, and the dark-eyed, luxurious, sun-craving Andalusian is almost as great. The effect of a central government and one language has been to break down most of the barriers and bring the j^eople together under the generic name of Spanish. But although for centuries this process has been at work, the differences are great. The Basque does not assimilate, and a very ordin- ary knowledge of Spanish types and character would enable you to designate, in a body like the Cortes, for instance, the province from which most of the members spring. TOUIl AllOUND THE WORLD. 377 In reference to the freedom of the two countries, lie says: — There is every hope that the Federal Republic will revive. Even the demagogues will see that the idea, of weakening the body because you strengthen the limbs, of disintegrating a State by reviving its provinces and giv- ing each section a strong government, is absurd. As to the differences of character between the Spanish and Port- uguese, they are not nearly so great as between Biscay and Andalusia. At the same time, there are differences which you can attribute partly to the government and partly to the communication with the outside world through her sea- ports. No influence is so decisive and salutary. Sj^ain, so far as the outer world is concerned, is hidden by a stoii e wall. She has the Mediterranean, but the breezes thsit come from the Mediterranean are enervating compared wit li what come from the Atlantic. Cervantes speaks of tlte Portuguese as a thick-witted, dull people, and in the com- edies you find frequent jokes at their expense, as in our comedies you find jokes about the Yankee and the Cana- dian. But it seemed to me, coming to Portugal from Spain, that a freer air was blowing. The manners of the people were gentler. That reserve which never leaves the Spaniard — their conscious, published, pride — had van- ished. There is a higher standard in Portugal. The press has complete freedom, and the editors have pride in their work. Take the visit of General Grant to the Pen- insula as an example. Few events in Spain have appar- ently attracted more attention than the coming of the ex- President. Yet the Spanish journals seem not to have heard of his presence, or they dismissed his movements in a paragraph announcing his arrival in a town, as a general thing, about the time he was leaving. In Portugal, the journals snuffed his coming, and published wood engrav- ings and biographies. The w^ood engravings might have 378 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. done for many other persons, but tlie biographies were as accurate as such accounts generally are. Here in Lisbon we came upon that beneficent influence of modern journal- ism — the reporter. I don't think a Spanish newsj^aper ever heard of a reporter. As soon as the General arrived in Lisbon, the rejDorters appeared and took possession of the approaches to the hotel and opened relations with the serv- ants, and every morning we had columns of choice infor- mation in the good, old-fashioned, homely style. Our re- porter was not quite u]) to the New York style, which heaven forbid, and did not interview the General as to what he thought of the world. We cannot expect everything in a strange land. But he did well, and told Lisbon how the General looked, and when he walked, and what he had for breakfast, and how he liked his eggs cooked, and the hour of his rising and retiring — all in the old-fashioned style. In Madrid, if a newspaper neglected to say in any issue, " God save the King and guard His Majesty many years," it would be constructive disloyalty, and would incur sup- pression. In Lisbon, there are journals of the Miguelite faith, who will not speak of the King except as a private prince, and who write of Don Miguel as though he were on the throne. Such an idea as suppressing these journals never occurs to the authorities. They do as they please, and do no harm. CHAPTER XXIV. CORDOVA THE MOSQUE THEY REACH SEVILLE — GRANT VISITS THE DUKE OF MONTPENSIER THE RUN FROM CADIZ GIBRALTAR TRAFALGAR DOING GRANT HONOR IRELAND DUBLIN RECEPTION BY THE LORD MAYOR GRANT BECOMES AN ULSTER IRISHMAN — OVATIONS ALL ALONG THE LINE — BELFAST — OFF FOR INDIA. From Portugal General Grant and his party returned to Spain. The first place visited was Cordova. A corre- spondent to the New York Herald writes : — It was late in the evening, and a heavy rain was falling, when General Grant and his j^arty reached Cordova. The Governor of the city and the authorities were waiting at the station. After the long ride from Lisbon it was pleasant to rest, even in the indifferent condition of comfort provided in a Spanish inn. There was a visit to the theatre, a ramble about the streets, which is General Grant's modern fashion of taking possession of a town ; there was a stroll up the Roman bridge, the arches of which are as stout and fresh as if the workmen had just laid down their tools. There was a visit to a Moorish mill in which the millers were grinding wheat. There was the casino, and the ascent of a tower from which Andalusia is seen spreading out before us green and smiling. And this sums up Cordova. Wliat you read of its ancient Roman and Moorish splendor, all traces of it have vanished, and you feel, as you wind and unwind yourself through the tortuous streets, that you are in a forgotten remnant of Spain; that civilization has changed its course, as rivers at home sometimes do, and (379) 38U hlFE OF GENERAL GltANT. run into a new channel, leaving Cordova to one side. The only evidence of modern life is the railway-station. It was j^leasant while at Cordova to meet Mr. Hett, the American Secretary of Legation at Paris, and his wife, who were returning to France from a holiday in the Penin- sula. In the morning the mosque was visited. We had thought that it might be better to visit the mosque alone, without state or ceremony, but the authorities of Cordova were in an advanced stage of courtesy, and our visit was in state. It seemed almost like a desecration — this dress MUbQLL Ul CORDO\A. and parade within these unique and venerable walls. The mosque is even now among the wonders of Europe. It stands on the site of an ancient tem2:>le of Janus. Eleven centuries ago, the Moors resolved to l^uild a temj^le to the worship of God and Mohammed His prophet, which should surpass all otlier temples in the world. Out of this resolution came this building. You can see even now the mosque in its day justified the extravagant commendations TOUK AROUND TIIK WORV.D. 381 of the Arabian historians. There was an enclosed court- yard, in which orange-trees were growing, and priests walk- ing up and down, taking the morning air. This enclosure seemed to be a bit out of Islam, and it looked almost like a jirofanation of Moslem rites to see men in attendance I wearing the garb of Rome — so cool, so quiet, so retired, so \ sheltered from the outer world they had indeed found rest. It is difficult to give an exact description of the mosque. Its value lies in the impression it makes on you, and in the fact that it is an almost perfect monument of ]\Ioslem civ- ilization in Spain. There is the ever-recurring Oriental arch, the inventor of which you sometimes think must j have found his type in the orange. There are elaborate ' ^nd gorgeous decorations of the sacred places of the mosque, where the Koran was kept, where the guilty ones sought refuge and unfortunate ones succor, where justice was ad- ministered and the laws of the Koran expounded. It all seems as clear and fresh — so genial is this Andalusian atmosphere — as it came from the hand of the faithful kings who built it. As one strolls through the arches, studying each varying phase of Oriental taste, the voices of the priests chanting the morning service and the odor of incense are borne upon the air. It is startling to find Christians in the performance of their sacred office within the walls of a building consecrated by the patience and de- votion of the unfortunate Moors. The lesson you always learn in Spain is what you see to-day, and what you ad- mire as the work of destiny, are only phases of changing and vanishing civilizations. The Moor may have mused over the ruins of Roman splendor even as we are musing over the monuments of the Moor's pride ; and even after we are gone others may look with wondering eyes ujwn that monument of Christian art and fanaticism — the Es- curial. S82 LIFE OF GE:N'ERAT. GRAKT. Seville was the next noteworthy stop of the party. The day after General Grant arrived the Duke of Mont- pensier called, and the next day was spent by the Gen- eral and his party in the hospitable halls and gardens of St. Telmo. The Duke regretted that, his house being in mourning on account of the death of his daughter, Queen Mercedes, he could not give General Grant a more formal welcome than a quiet luncheon party. The Duke, the Duchess and their daughter were present, and after luncheon the General and Duke spent an hour or two strolling through the gardens, which are among the most beautiful in Europe. The Duke spoke a great deal of his relations with America, and especially of the part which his nephews had played in the war against the South. At the close of the reception the General drove back to the hotel and the next morning left for Cadiz, where a short visit was made. On November 17th the party left Cadiz in the early morning, Gibraltar being their next stop. General Duffie, our gallant and genial Consul, was with us. The run froui Gibraltar carries you past some of the famous cities of the world. It is the thin line that divides two continents, the barrier over which civilizations have dashed and fallen. So much of the romance of European travel is embraced in these historic memories, that you find your- self, even in the presence of Nature in her most gracious and resplendent moods, diverted from the contemplation of her beauty into a re very upon forgotten ages and the great men who lived then. This city we are leaving, for instance, whose towers are glowing in the morning sun, was founded by Hercules. The city we left the other day — Lisbon — was founded by Ulysses. The city to which we are steering was the Calpe of the classic age. And so Cadiz fades away. It was a long time before we lost sight of her. TOUR AllOU2^D THE WOULD. 383 It is not a long journey from Cadiz to Gibraltar, and after passing Trafalgar all eyes look for the teeming rock on which England holds guard over the highway to India. Gibraltar is one in a line of posts which English policy is compelled to retain for the defence of her empire. Oddly enough, the impartial observer cannot help noting that this England, the most inoffensive of nations, always craving peace, wishing to molest no one, always selects for these posts a position of menace to other Powers. From Aden she menaces Egypt ; Hong Kong is a guard upon China ; from Heligoland she observes Germany ; Malta is the out- post of Italy and France and Austria, and to draw nearer to Russia she took Cyj^rus. Rather than surrender Malta she went to war w^ith Napoleon. The sea was very calm as we came from Cadiz, but as we entered Gibraltar Bay it began to roughen. The first thing to welcome us was the American flag flying from one of our men-of-war. There was some difficulty in distin- guishing the vessel until we came nearer, when we recog- nized Captain Robeson and several other officers, our old friends and shipmates of the steamship Vandalia. The General directed his vessel to steam around the Yandalia, and cordial greetings were exchanged between the two ships. As we headed into port the Vandalia mounted the yards, and Captain Robeson came in his barge to take the General on shore. The American Consul, Mv. Sprague, and two officers of Lord Napier's staff, met the General and welcomed him to Gibraltar in the name of the general commanding. Amid a high sea, which threw its spray over most of the party, we pulled ashore. On landing, a guard of honor presented arms, and the General drove at once to the house of Mr. Sprague, on the hill. Mr. Sprague has lived many years at Gibraltar, and, I believe, is the oldest consular officer in the service of the 384 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. United States. General Grant is the third ex-President he has entertained at his house. Lord Napier of Magdala, the commander at Gibraltar, had telegraphed to Cadiz, asking the General to dinner on the evening of his arrival. At seven o'clock the General and Mrs. Grant, accomj^anied by the Consul, went to the palace of the Governor, called the Convent, and were received in the most hospitable manner by Lord Napier. His lordship had expressed a great desire to meet General Grant, and relations of cour- tesy had passed between them before. Lord Napier, who commanded the expeditionary force in Abyssinia, having sent General Grant King Theodore's Bible. The visit to Gibraltar may be summed up in a series of dinners — first, at the Governor's palace ; second, with the mess of the Koyal Artillery ; again, at the Consul's. Then there were private and informal dinners at Lord Napier's, with whom, indeed, the General spent most of his time. From Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, General Grant and his party proceeded to Ireland, and reached Dublin on the 3d of January. Upon landing they were met by representatives of the city corporation, by whom they were warmly welcomed. They were at once driven to the Shel- bourne Hotel, where the General prej)ared to meet the Lord Mayor at the City Hall. The city was full of stran- gers, and much enthusiasm was manifested when the Gen- eral and his party left their hotel to drive to the Mansion House. On arriving at the Mayor's official residence, they were cheered by a large crowd that had gathered to greet the illustrious ex-President. The Lord Mayor, in j^re- senting the freedom of the city, referred to the cordiality always existing between America and Ireland, and hoped that in America General Grant would do everything he could to help a people who sympathize with every Ameri- can movement. TOUR AUOU^'L) THE WOULD. 3 SI On Moiulay, January 8tli, General Grant and liis party left Dublin for Londonderry and Belfast. The Lord Mayor accompanied them to the railway-station, and bade them farewell. The morning was cold, and as the train 2:)ro- gressed northward ice, snow, cold winds, and, finally, rain, were encountered. At Dundalk, Omagh, Strabane, and other stations, large crowds were assembled, and the people •cheered the ex-President, putting their hands into the cars and shaking hands with him whenever possible. The ex- pressions of ill-feeling towards General Grant in Cork had aroused the Protestant sentiments of the Irish people of Ulster in his favor. At two o'clock the train reached Derry. A heavy rain had covered the ground with ice, rendering the view of the city and surroundings most charming, as seen through the mists and gossamer of falling snow. At the station an immense crowd, apparently the whole town and neighbor- hood, had assembled. The multitude was held in check by the police. The Mayor welcomed General Grant cor- dially, and he left the station amid great cheering. The great majority of the crowd cheered madly, and followed General Grant's carriage to the hotel. The ships in the harbor were decorated with flags and streamers, and the town was en fete. A remarkably cold, driving rain set in at three o'clock, just as General Grant and his party drove in state to the ancient town hall. The crowd ^y^ so dense near the hall that progress through it was made with great difiiculty. At the entrance of the building the Mayor and Council, in their robes of office, received the ex-President. Amid many expressions of enthusiasm from the people of Londonderry, an address was read extolling the military and civil career of General Grant, which was pronounced second in honor only to that of Washington. General Grant signed the roll, thus making himself an Ulster Irishman. 386 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The train reached Belfast station at half-past two o'clock. The reception accorded General Grant was im- posing and extraordinary. The linen and other mills had stopped work, and the workmen stood out in the rain in thousands. From the train-window, Grant saw a perfect sea of heads, which showed the eagerness of the people to honor the distinguished traveller. The platform of the • Btation was covered with scarlet carpet. The Mayor and members of the City Council welcomed the General, who descended from the car amid tremendous cheers. Crowds ran after the carriages containing the city authorities and their illustrious guest, and afterwards surrounded the hotel where the General was entertained. Upon reaching Dublin, Lord Mayor Barrington and a considerable number of persons were on the platform at the railway-station, and cordially welcomed the General. As soon as all the party had descended, the Lord Mayor in- vited the General into his carriage and drove him to West- ward Row, where the Irish mail-train was ready to depart, having been detained eight minutes for the ex-President. There was a most cordial farewell, and a great shaking of hands. The Mayor and his friends begged Grant to return soon and make a longer stay. Soon Kingston was reached, and in a few minutes the party were in the special cabin which had been provided for them on board the mail- steamer. Special attention was paid to the General by the officers of the vessel. Grant left the Irish shores at twenty minutes past seven o'clock. London was duly reached, and tlie travellers became the guests of the American Minister, Mr. Welsh, From Lon- don the party went to Marseilles, whence, at noon on the day following, they embarked on the French steamship " Labourdonais " for India via Suez. CHAPTER XXV. FROM MARSEILLES TO BOMBAY THE SUEZ CANAL ALEX ANDRIA AGAIN ON BOARD THE VENETIA LANDING AT APOLLO BUNDER THE CAVES OF ELEPHANTA BRAHMA, VISHNU AND SIVA THE ENTERTAINMENT AT MALABAR POINT — VISIT TO JEYPOOR RECEPTION AT THE PALACE — THE PALACE OF AMBER — THE TAJ — BEAUTIFUL SCENES — BHURTPOOR. The voyage from Marseilles to Bombay was a pleasant one. Like a thing of life the vessel bearing the travellers danced upon the crested waves of the Mediterranean. As they passed along, Etna was seen towering in the distance, with villages nestling at its base. After skirting along the African coast, they disembarked near Alexandria. A short ride by rail brought them to the Suez Canal, where they took passage on another boat, called the Venetia, and pro- ceeded on their way down the Eed Sea. The journey at this point is one of great interest, since the banks of that Sea are hallowed by the footsteps of the Israelites. Many points of historic interest were pointed out, among which Mount Sinai was, perhaps, the most important. The vessel touched at Aden just long enough to allow the travellers to mail their letters, and then quietly passed on towards Bombay. Their arrival at the latter point is thus narrated : — Our departure from Europe had been so sudden that we had no idea that even our Consul at Bom- bay knew of our coming. All arrangements were made to go to a hotel, and from thence make our journey ; but the (387) 388 LIFE OF GENEllxVL GRANT, Venetia had scarcely entered the harbor before we saw evi- dences that the General was exj^ected. Ships in the harbor were dressed with flags, and at the wharf was a large crowd — soldiers, natives, Europeans. As we passed the English flag-ship, a boat came alongside with an oflicer represent- ing Admiral Corbett, welcoming the General to India. In a few minutes came another boat bearing Caj)tain Frith, the military aid to Sir Richard Temple, Governor of the THE SUEZ CANAL. Presidency of Bombay. Captain Frith bore a letter from the Governor, welcoming the General to Bombay, and offering him the use of the Government House at Malabar Point. Captain Frith expressed the regret of Sir Pichard, that he could not be in Bombay to meet General Grant, but duties connected with the Afghan war kept him in Sind. The Consul, Mr. Farnham, also came with a delegation of American residents and welcomed the General and party. 390 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. At nine o'clock in the morning the last farewells were spoken, we took our leave of the many kind and pleasant friends we had made on the Venetia, and went on board the Government yacht. Our landing was at the Apollo Bunder — the spot where the Prince of AVales landed. The tides in the harbor are high, and there were stone steps over which the sea had been washing. As we drew near the shore, there was an immense crowd lining the THE RED SEA ENTRANCE TO THE SUEZ CANAL. wharf and a company of Bombay volunteers in line. As the General ascended the steps he was met by Brigadier- General Aitcheson, commanding the forces ; Sir Francis Souter, Commissioner of Police ; Mr. Grant, the Municijoal Commissioner, and Colonel Sexton, commanding the Bom- bay volunteers, all of whom gave him a hearty welcome to India. The volunteers presented arms, the band played our national air, and the General was loudly cheered. TOUR AROUND THE AVORLD. 891 In Bombay the General's party made their home at the Government House, on Mahibar Point, in the city's suburbs. MaUibar Point is an edge of the ishuid of Bombay jutting out into the Indian Ocean. Where the bhifi' overlooivs tlie waters it is one hundred feet high. This remnant of tlie rock has been rescued from the sea and storm and deco- rated with trees and shrubbery, the mango and the palm. Overlooking the sea is a battery with five large guns, shin- ing and black, looking out upon the ocean and keeping watch over the Empire of England. It is difficult to de- scribe a residence like the Government House on Malabar Point. Architecture is simply a battle with the sun. The house is a group of houses. As you drive in the grounds, through stone gates that remind you of the porters' lodges at some stately English mansions, you pass through an avenue of mango trees, past beds of flowers throwing out their delicate fragrance on the warm morning air. You come to a one-storied house surrounded with spacious verandas. There is a wide state entrance covered with red cloth. ' A guard is at the foot, a native guard wearing che English scarlet, on his shoulders the number indicating the regiment. You pass up the stairs, a line of servants on either side. The servants are all Mohammedans ; they wear long scarlet gowns, with white turbans ; on the breast is a belt with an imperial crown for an escutcheon. They salute you with the grave, submissive grace of the East, touching the forehead and bending low the head, in token of welcome and duty. You enter a hall and pass between two rooms — large, high, decorated in blue and white, and look out upon the gardens below, the sea beyond, and the towers of Bombay. One of these rooms is the state dining- room, large enough to dine fifty people. The other is the state drawing-room. This house is only used for ceremo- nies, meals, and receptions. 25 892 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. You pass for one hundred paces under a covered way over a path made of cement and stone, through flower-beds and palm-trees, and come to another house. Here are the principal bedrooms and private chambers. This also is one story high and runs down to the sea, so that you Can stand on a balcony and throw a biscuit into the white surf as it combs the shore. These are the apartments assigned to General Grant and his wife. There are drawing-rooms, anterooms, chambers, the walls high, the floors covered with rugs and cool matting. As you pass in, servants, who are sitting crouched around on the floors, rise up and bend the head. You . note a little group of shoes at the door, and learn that in the East custom requires those in service to unslipper themselves before entering the house of a master. Another hundred paces and you come to another house, with wide verandas, somewhat larger than " the General's. These are the guest chambers, and here a . part of our party reside. On Friday evening, the General visited the ball of the Volunteer Corps, and was received by Colonel Sexton. The ballroom was profusely decorated with flags — the American flag predominating. On Saturday, at two, he visited Dossabhoy Merwanjee, a Parsee merchant. The reception was most cordial, the ladies of the family deco- ''^. rating the General and party with wreaths of jessamine flowers. In the afternoon he drove to the Byculla Club, lunched, and looked at the races. In the evening there was a state dinner at the Government House, with forty- eight guests. The Government band played during dinner. The member of Council, Hon. James Gibbs, who repre- sents the Governor, was in the chair. At the close of the dinner he proposed the health of the General, who arose amid loud cheering, and said a few pleasant words. His reception in Bombay had been most gratifying. i TOUR AROUND THE WORUD. 393 During their stay at Bombay, the party visited the cele- brated caves of Elephaiita. The corresi)ondent thus de- scribes the visit : — We have a cooUno- breeze coniiny; in from the Indian Ocean, and as we slowly climb easy flights of steps we have an almost naked retinue of Hindoos, in various stages of squalor, asking alms and offering to sell us gold beetles. The temples are reached in time, and we stroll about studying out the figures, noting the columns and the curious architecture, full, rude, massive, unlike any forms of architectural art familiar to us. The main temple is 125 feet long, and the same in width. The idols are hewn out of the rock. The faces of some are comely, and there is a European expression in the features that startles you. The type is a higher one than those we saw in Egypt. One of the idols is supposed to be the Hindoo Trinity — Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva. On Monday the General was entertained in state at the Government House, at Malabar Point. Hon. James Gibbs, the member of the Council who acted as Governor in the absence of Sir Richard Temple, presided, and at the close of the dinner a splendid social time was enjoyed. This entertainment closed the visit at Bombay. From Bombay they went to Jeypoor. One of the party writes : — Our ride was through a low, uninteresting country, broken by ranges of hills. The railway is narrow gauge, and, as I learned from one of the managers who accom- panied us, has proved a success, and strengthens the argu- ments in favor of the narrow gauge system. It was night before we reached Jeypoor. On arriving at the station, the Maharajah was present with his Ministers, and the English Resident, Dr. Hendley, who acted in place of Colonel Beynon. As the General descended, the Maha- rajah, who wore the ribbon and star of the Order of India, advanced and shook hands, welcoming him to his realm. 394 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The next day after our arrival there was a reception at the royal palace. We drove to the palace at four o'clock, and were shown the royal stables. There were some fine horses and exhibitions of horsemanship, which astonished even the General. We were shown the astro- nomical buildings of Jai Singh II., which were on a large scale and accurately graded. We climbed to the top of the palace and had a fine view of Jeypoor. It embraces one-sixth of the city. At five o'clock we entered the court- yard leading to the reception hall. The Maharajah came slowly down the steps with a serious, preoccupied air ; not as an old man, but as one who was too weary with a day's labors to make any effort, and shook hands with the Gen- eral and Mrs. Grant. He accompanied the General to a seat of honor and sat down at his side. We all ranged ourselves in the chairs. On the side of the General sat the members of his j)arty ; on the side of the Maharajah, the members of his cabinet. Dr. Hendley acted as inter- l^reter. The Prince said Jeypoor was honored in seeing the face of the great American ruler, whose fame had reached Hindostan. His Highness then made a gesture, and a troop of danc- ing-girls came into the court-yard. One of the features of a visit to JeyjDoor is what is called the Nautch. The Nautch is a sacred affair, danced by Hindoo girls of a low caste, in the presence of the idols in the palace temple. A group of girls came trooping in, under the leadership of an old fellow with a long beard and a hard expression of face, who might have been the original of Dickens' Fagin. The girls wore heavy garments embroidered, the skirts com- posed of many folds, covered with gold braid. They had ornaments on their heads, and jewels in the side of the nose. They had plain faces, and their dance had no value either as an expression of harmony, grace, or motion. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. In a trip to the Palace of Amber, Mrs. Grant rode in a sedan chair, which is carried in a short, measured quick- step, so that there is no uneasiness to the rider. The rest of us rode elephants. Of the Palace of Amber the most one can say is that it is curious and interesting as the home of an Indian king- in the days when India was ruled by her kings and a Hastings and a Clive had not come to rend and destroy. The Maharajah has not quite abandoned it. He comes sometimes to the great feasts of the faith, and a few apart- ments are kept for him. His rooms were ornamented with looking-glass decorations, with carved marble which the artisan had fashioned into tracery so delicate that it looked like lacework. What strikes you in this Oriental decora- tion is its tendency to light, bright, lacelike gossamer work, showing infinite pains and patience in the doing, but with- out any special value as a real work of art. The general effect of these decorations is agreeable, but all is done for effect. There is no such honest, serious work as you see in the Gothic cathedrals, or even in the Alhambra. One is the expression of a facile, sprightly race, fond of the sunshine, delighting to repeat the caprice of nature in the curious and quaint ; the other has a deep, earnest purpose. This is an imagination which sees its gods in every form — in stones and trees and beasts and creeping things, in the stars above, in the snake wriggling through the hedges — the other sees only one God, even the Lord God Jehovah, who made the heavens and the earth, and will come to judge the world at the last day. As you wander through the court-yards and chambers of Amber, the fancy is amused by the character of all that surrounds you. There is no luxury. All these kings wanted was air and sun- shine. They slept on the floor. The chambers of their wives were little more than cells built in stone. Here are the walls that surrounded their section of the palace. 396 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. There are no windows looking into the outer world, only a thick stone wall pierced with holes slanting upward, so that if a curious spouse looked out she would see nothing lower than the stars. Amber is an immense palace, and could quite accommodate a rajah with a court of a thousand attendants There were some beautiful views from the terrace, and we sat in the shade between the columns and looked into the valley beyond, over which the sun was streaming in midday splendor. We should like to have remained, but our elephants had been down to the water to lap them- selves about, and were now returning, refreshed, to bear us back to Jeypoor. We had only given ourselves a day for the town, and we had to return the call of the Prince, which is a serious task in Eastern etiquette. Mr. Borie was quite beaten down and used up by the sun and the wabbling, wearisome elephant ride, but we succeeded in persuading him to make the descent in a chair as Mrs. Grant had done. While Mr. Borie and Mrs. Grant were off swinging and lolling down the hill, the rest of us took a short cut among the ruins, leaping from stone to stone, watching the ground carefully as we went, to see that we disturbed no coiled and sleeping cobra, until we came upon our huge and tawny brutes, and were wabbled back to our carriages and in our carriages to town. Leaving Jeypoor the party went to Agra. At Agra they visited the Taj. Mr. Young writes: "The gardens are the perfection of horticulture, and you see here, as in no part of India that I have visited, the wealth and beauty of nature in Hindostan. The landscape seems to be flushed with roses, with all varieties of the rose, and that most sunny and queenly of flowers seems to strew your path, and bid you welcome, as you saunter down the avenues and up the ascending slope that leads to the shrine of a husband's love 397 398 LIFE OF GENERAL (UtANT. and a mother's consecration. There is a row of fountains which throw ont a spray and cool the air, and when you pass the trees and come to the door of the buikUng, its great- ness comes upon you — its greatness and its beauty. Mr. Keene took us to various parts of the garden, that we might see it from different points of view. I coukl see no value in one view beyond the other. And wdien our friend, in the spirit of courteous kindness, pointed out the defects of the building — that it was too much this, or too much that, or would have been perfect if it had been a little less of something else — there was just the least disposition to re- sent criticism, and to echo the opinion of Mr. Borie, who, as he stood looking at the exquisite towers and solemn marble walls, said, " It was worth coming to India to see the Taj." I value that criticism, because it is that of a practical business man, concerned with affairs, and not dis- posed to see a poetic side to any subject. What he saw in the Taj was the idea that its founder meant to convey — the idea of solemn, overj^owering, and unapproachable beauty. As you enter, you see a vast dome, every inch of w^hich is enriched with inscriptions in Arabic, verses from the Koran, engraved marble, mosaics, decorations in agate and jasper. In the centre are two small tombs of white marble, modestly carved. These cover the resting-place of the Emperor and his wife, whose bodies are in the vault under- neath. In other days the Turkish priests read the Koran from the gallery, and you can imagine how solemn must have been the eftect of the words chanted in a priestly cadence by the echo that answers and again answers the chanting of some tune by one of the party. The more closely you examine the Taj, the more you are perplexed to decide whether its beauty is to be found in the general effect of the design as seen from afar, or the minute and finished decorations which cover every wall. The general TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 399 idea of the building is never lost. There is nothing trivial about the Taj, no grotesque Gothic moulding or flowering Corinthian columns — all is cold and white and chaste and pure. You may form an idea of the size of the Taj from the figures of the measurement of the royal engineers. From the base to the top of the centre dome is 139^ feet; to the summit of the pinnacle, 243 i feet. It stands on the banks of the River Jumna, and it is said that Shah Jehan intended to build a counterpart in black marble, in which his own ashes should rest. But misfortunes came to Shah Jehan — ungrateful children, strife, deposition — and when he died, his son felt that the Taj was large enough for both father and mother. One is almost glad that the black marble idea never germinated. The Taj, by itself alone, is unapproachable. A duplicate would have detracted from its peerless beauty. We remained in the gardens until the sun went down, and we had to hurry to our carriages not to be caught in the swiftly descending night. The gardener came to Mrs. Grant with an offering of roses. Some of us, on our return from Jeypoor, took advantage of the new moon to make another visit. We had been told that the moonlight gave a new glory even to the Taj. It was the night before we left Agra, and we could not resist the temptation, even at the risk of keeping some friends waiting who had asked us to dinner, of a moonlight view. It was a new moon, which made our view imperfect. But such a view as was given added to the beauty of the Taj. The cold lines of the marble were softened by the shimmering silver light. The minarets seemed to have a new height, and the dome had a solemnity as became the canopy of the mother and queen. CHAPTER XXVI. THEY REACH DELHI VISIT TO THE KUTAB AMID THE SCENES OF THE SEPOY REBELLION THE SACRED CITY OF THE HINDOOS BENARES AND ITS PRIESTS CALCUTTA AT THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE THE UNIVERSITY THE VICE- ROY'S COUNTRY-SEAT THE KING OF OUDE RANGOON HINDOO CUSTOMS AND SOCIETY THE PAGODA. The correspondent of General Grant's party writes as follows : " We came into Delhi early in the afternoon in a worn-out, fagged condition. There was a recej^tion by the troops, and the General with Mrs. Grant drove to Ludlow Castle, the home of Gordon Young, the chief officer. The others found quarters in a comfortable hotel — com- fortable for India — near the railway-station. The first impression Delhi makes upon you is that it is a beautiful town. But I am afraid that the word town, as ^e understand it at home, will give you no idea of a town in India. We think of houses built closely together, of avenues and streets, and people living as neighbors and friends. In India, a town is built for the air. The natives in some of the native sections, in the bazaars, live closely together, huddle into small cubby-holes of houses or rude caves, in huts of mud and straw, but natives of wealth and Englishmen build their houses where they may have space. A drive through Delhi is like a drive through the lower part of Westchester county or any of our country suburbs. The officials have their bungalows in the finest localities, near wood and water when possible, surrounded 400 TOUR AEOUND THE AVORLD. 401 * by gardens. What strikes you in India is the excellence of the roads and the beauty of the gardens. This was especially true of Delhi. As you drove from the dusty station, with the strains of welcoming music and the clang of presenting arms in your ears, you passed through a section that might have been an English country town with gentlemen's seats all around. There are few cities in the world which have had a more varied and more splendid career than Delhi. It is the Rome of India, and the history of India centres around Delhi. It has no such place as Benares in the re- ligion of the people, but to the Indians it is what Eome in the ancient days was to the Roman Empire. One of its authentic monuments goes back to the fourth century before Christ. Its splendor began with the rise ot the Moo-ul empire, and as you ride around the suburbs you see the splendor of the Moguls in what they built and the severity of their creed in what they destroyed. After you pass from the English section, a ride through Delhi is sad. You go through miles of ruins — the ruins of many wars and dynasties, from what was destroyed by the Turk m the twelfth century to what was destroyed by the English- man in the nineteenth. From the Cashmere gate to the Kutab, eleven miles, your road is through rums. Tombs, temples, mausoleums, mosques, in all directions. Among the sights to be beheld in Delhi is the palace ot the Grand Mogul, concerning which our correspondent says: In wandering about Delhi your mind is attracted to these sad scenes. What it must have been when the Moo-uls reigned vou may see in the old palace, the great mo°que of Shah Ishan, and the Kutab. On the afternoon of our arrival we were taken to the palace, which is now used as a fort for the defence of the city. We ha^'e an idea of what the palace must have been in its palmy days. 402 LIFE OF GENERAL GllAXT. An interesting visit, worthy of remembrance, was our drive to the Kutab. We drove out in the early morning, and our course was for eleven miles through the ruins of the ancient city. The Kutab, or tower, was for a long time looming over the horizon before we came to its base. This tower ranks among the wonders of India. It is 238 feet high, sloping from the base, which is forty-seven feet in diameter, to the summit, which is nine feet. It is composed of five sections or stories, and Avith each story there is a change in the design. The lower section has twenty-four sides, in the form of convex flutings, alternately semicircular and rectangular. In the second section they are circular, the third angular, the fourth a plain cylinder, the fifth partly fluted and partly plain. At each basement is a balcony. On the lower sections are inscriptions in scroll work, reciting in Arabic characters the glory of God, verses from the Koran, and the name and achievements of the conqueror who built the tower. It is believed that when really comj)lete, with the cuj)ola, it must have been twenty feet higher. The work goes back to the fourteenth century, and with the exception of the cupola, which, we think, some British government might restore, it is in a good state of preser- vation. Everything in the neighborhood is a ruin. From Delhi the party proceeded to Lucknow, where, during the famous Sepoy rebellion, a handful of English residents defended themselves against overwhelming forces, until relieved by Havelock and Sir Colin Campbell. Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, was the next point visited. It is a city of Buddhist priests, full of temples, mosques and shrines, and it is estimated that there are a half million of idols in the city. The city abounds in paupers and beggars, however, and in tew places do extremes meet so remarkably. f m K^A^^n^^ 404 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. After visiting Benares the party proceeded to Cal- cutta, where they arrived early on the morning of March 10th. Their arrival is thus detailed : — The American Consul-General, General Litchfield, was present at the station, with a guard of honor from the Viceroy and an aid. The General drove off in the state carriages, with a small escort of cavalry, to the Government House, where preparations had been made by Lord Lytton for the recep- tion of himself and party. The streets had been watered, and there was just the suspicion of a cool breeze from the Hoogly, which, after the distress of a long night ride, made our morning drive pleasant. A line of native police- men was formed for a distance of about two miles, from the railway-station to the door of the Government House, who saluted the General as he drove along. The Govern- ment House is a large, ornate building, standing in a park or open square, and was built in 1804. The corner-stone was laid about the time that Washington laid the founda- tion of the Capitol. The cost of the building was $750,000. Of the public buildings, the Fort is, perhaps, the most important. It was begun by Clive, after the battle of Plas- sey, and cost $10,000,000. It mounts 600 guns, and is a strong work in good preservation. This is the home of the Commander-in-Chief of the army. There is a town hall in the Doric style, with some large rooms for public enter- tainments. The Court-House is a Gothic j)ile, with a mas- sive tower. In Dalhousie Square is the Currency Ofiice, a large building in the Indian style of architecture. The Mint stands on the river-bank. It is composed of two buildings, which, with the grounds, cover a space of eigh- teen and one-half acres, and is said to be the largest mint in the world. There is a Custom House, a bonded ware- house, and a block known as the Writers' Buildings, where young men find homes when they come to India. TOUK AROUND THE WUilJ.D. 405 The Viceroy received General Grant with great kind- ness. Lord Lytton said he Avas honored in having as his guest a gentleman whose career he had so long followed with interest and respect, and that it was especially agree- able to him to meet one who had been chief magistrate of a country in which he had spent three of the happiest years of his life. Lord Lytton had reference to his resi- dence in Washington as a member of the British Lega- tion, during the time when his uncle, Sir Henry Bulwer, was Minister to the United States. The Viceroy regretted that the duties of his office, which, on account of Burmese and Afghan complications and his departure for Simla, were unusually pressing, prevented his seeing as much of the members of the General's party as he wished. Tn the afternoon we drove around the city and listened to the band. All the English world o^ Calcutta spend the cool of the day in the gardens, and the General and the Vice- roy had a long stroll. The next day was given to an excursion up the Hoogly, to the Viceroy's country-seat at Barrackpoor. At the last moment, Lord Lytton found he could not go, and the honors of the day were done in his name by Sir Ashley Eden. Barrackpoor is about twelve miles U23 the river, and the hour for our departure was noon. We drove to the dock under a beating sun, and embarked on the Viceroy's yacht. The party was a small one, comprising the lead- ing members of the government, with their families. The native gentlemen and jmnces of high rank were presented by the Viceroy to General Grant. Some of these names were the foremost in India. Some are de- posed princes, or descendants of deposed princes. Others were Brahmins of high caste ; some rich bankers and merchants. The son of the King of Oude came with his son. He has an effeminate, weak face. On his head he wore a headdress shaped like a crow^n and covered with gold foil and lace. The King of Oude lives in Calcutta, on an allowance of $600,000 a year. 406 LIFE OF GENERAL GliANT. We left Calcutta at midnight, in order to catch the tides in the Hoogly, on board the steamer Simla, of the British-India Navigation Company, commanded by Cajitain Franks, a young and able officer. The Simla was as pleas- ant and comfortable as though it had been our own yacht, and our run across the Bay of Bengal was over a summer sea. We sailed up the river to Rangoon and arrived at the wharf about noon. A fierce sun was blazing, and the wdiole landscaj^e seemed baked, so stern was the heat. Rangoon is the princij^al city of Burmah, and seen from the wharf is a low-lying, straggling town. Two British men-of-war were in the harbor, who manned their yards in honor of the General. All the vessels in the stream were dressed, and the jaunty little Simla streamed with flags. The landing was Covered with scarlet cloth, and the American and British standards were l)lended. All the town seemed to be out, and the river-bank was lined with the multitude, who looked on in their passive Oriental fashion at the pageant. As soon as our boat came to the wharf, Mr. Aitcheson, the Commissioner, came on board, accompanied by Mr. Leishmann, the American Vice-Con- sul, and bade the General welcome to Burmah. On land- ing, the General was presented to the leading citizens and officials and the officers of the men-of-war. The guard of honor j^resented arms and we all drove away to the Government House, a pretty, commodious bungalow in the suburbs, buried among trees. Mr. Aitcheson, our host, is one of the most distinguished officers in the Indian service. He was for some time Foreign Secretary at Calcutta. Burmah, however, is already one of the most important of the British colonies in Asia, and this importance is not diminished by the critical relations between British Burmah and the court of the King. Consequently, England re- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 407 quires the best service possible in Burmab, and, as a result of her policy of sending her wisest men to the most useful places, Mr. Aitcheson finds himself in Rangoon. AVe may be said, in fact, to have arrived in Burniah during a crisis, and we had read in the Calcutta papers of the deej^ feeling created throughout Burmah by the atrocities of the new Kino-, who had murdered most of his relatives and was talking about taking off the head of the British Resident at Mandalay. We also read that there was excitement among the people, commotion, a universal desire for the punishment of this worthless king, and the annexation of Upper Burmah. I expected to find the streets of Rangoon lined with people, as at home during an exciting election canvass, clamoring against the King, demanding the benef- icent rule of England. I only saw the patient, dreamy, plodding Asiatic bearing his burdens like his brethren in India, content if he can assure a mess of rice for his food and a scrap of muslin for his loins. As to the rest, accept it as an axiom, that when the moral sensibilities of the English statesmen in India become so outraged as to become uncontrollable it means more territory. Our days in Rangoon were pleasant. The town is in- teresting. It is Asiatic, and at the same time not Indian. You have left Hindostan, and all the forms of that vivid and extraordinary civilization, and you come upon a new people. Here you meet John, the inscrutable John, who troubles you so much in California, and whose fate is the gravest problem of our day. You see Chinese signs on the houses, Chinese workmen on the streets, shops where you can drink toddy and smoke opium. This is the first ripple we have seen of that teeming empire towards which we are steering. Politically, Burmah is a part of the British Empire, but it is really one of the outposts of China, and from now until we leave Japan we shall be under the in- 26 408 LIFE OF GENERAL GRAKT. fluence of China. The Hindoos you meet are from Madras, a different type from those we saw on our tour. The Bur- mese look like Chinese to our unskilled eyes, and it is pleas- ant to see women on the streets and in society. The streets are wide and rectangular, like those of Philadelphia, and the shade-trees are grateful. Over the city, on a height, which you can see from afar, is a pagoda, one of the most famous in Asia. It is covered with gilt, and in the even- ing, when we first saw it, the sun's rays made it dazzling. We knew from the j^agoda that in leaving India, and coming to Burmah, we leave the land of Brahma, and come to the land of Buddha, and that remarkable religion called Buddhism. The institution of caste, ujDon which the Hindoo faith and the whole structure of Hindoo society rests, is not known in Buddhism. There is no priestly class like the Brahmins, claiming grotesque, selfish, and extraordinary privileges, descending from father to son, claiming honors almost divine, and teaching that all the good things of the world are especially intended for the Brahmins. The priests, like those in the Catholic Church, are taken from any rank in life. They do not marry. They deny them- selves all pleasures of the sense, live a monastic life, dress in yellow gowns (yellow being a sacred color), shave their heads and beards, and walk barefooted. They live in common, eat in common. When they sieej), it is in a sitting posture. They go to church, pray, chant hymns, make offerings to their gods, — princi2:)al among them a statue of Buddha, — sometimes alone, sometimes with his disciples. The statue of Buddha holds the same position in the temples of his faith that the statue of our Saviour holds in the Catholic churches. As you go into these temples you are impressed with other forms of resemblance between the two systems of worship. I 409 410 LIFE OF GENERAL GllANT Our first visit was to the famous pagoda, which rests upon Kangoon like a crown of gold, its burnished splendor seen from afar. The jDagoda is in the centre of a park of about two acres, around which are fortifications. These fortifications were defended by the Burmese during their war with the English, and in the event of a sudden out- break, or a mutiny, or a war, would at once be occupied. During the Burmese wars the pagoda was always used as a fort, and now, in the event of an alarm, or an invasion, or a mutiny, the troops and people would at once take posses- sion. Ever since that horrible Sunday afternoon in Meerut, when the Sepoys broke out of their barracks, burned every house, and butchered every woman and child in the European quarter, all these Asiatic settlements have a place of refuge to which the population can fly. A small guard was on duty as we passed up tlie ragged steps that led to the pagoda. There was an ascent of seventy-five feet up a series of steps — a gentle and not a tiresome ascent, if you looked care- fully and did not stumble among the jagged and crumbling etones. On either side of the way were devotees at prayers, or beggars waiting for their rice, or booths where you could buy false pearls, imitation diamonds, beads, packages of gold-leaf, flowers and cakes. The trinkets and flowers are given as offerings to Buddha. The gold-leaf is sold for acts of piety. If the devout Buddhist has a little money, he lays it out on the pagoda. He buys a package of the gold-leaf and covers with it some dingy spot on the pagoda, and adds his mite to the glory of the temple. No one is so poor that he cannot make some offering. We observed several devout Buddhists at work patching the temple with their gold foil. On the top of the temple is an umbrella or cap covered with precious stones. This was a royal offer- ing, and was placed here some years since with great pomp. CHAPTER XXVII. DOWN THE STRAITS OF MALACCA BURMAH — A LETTER FROM THE KING OF SIAM — THEY REACH SIAM — A VISIT TO THE EX-REGENT THE STATE DINNER AN INTERESTING OC- CASION CANTON DINING WITH THE VICEROY THE Menu A PECULIAR FEAST MACAO, SWATOW, AND AMOY — CAMOCUS — HONG KONG. It was pleasant, writes one of the travellers, to sail down the Straits of Malacca and along the coast of Biirmah in a comfortable and swift steamer called the Simla, commanded by Captain Franks. After leaving Rangoon we ran across to the little town of Maulmain. Here General Grant and party were received by Colonel Duff, the British Commis- sioner. There was a guard of honor at the wharf, and a gathering of what appeared to be the whole town. The evening after we arrived there was a dinner given by the Maulmain Volunteer Rifles — a militia organization com- posed of the merchants of Maulmain and young men in the service of the Government. This dinner was given in the messroom of the company — a little bungalow in th 3 outskirts of the town. The next morning there was a visit to the wood-yards, where teak-wood is sawed and sent as an article of commerce into various countries. The teak- tree is a feature in the commerce and the industry of the peninsula, and is said to be the most durable timber in Asia. The Javanese name for teak illustrates its char- acter, meaning true, real, genuine. It is only found in (411) 412 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. a few places, being quite unknown in parts of India and the adjoining islands. The question of General Grant's visit to Siam was for some days in abeyance. It was out of our way to China and the means of communication were irregular, and none of us took any special interest in Siam — our available knowledge of the country being that there were once famous Siamese twins. Moreover, and this fact I cannot as a conscientious historian conceal, there is a feeling of homesickness among some of the party, which finds relief in looking at the map and drawing the shortest lines of travel between Singapore and San Francisco, and any sug- gestion of departure from these lines is unwelcome. But in Singapore we met many merchants and prominent au- thorities who had been in Siam, and the universal testimony was that a visit around the world would be incomplete un- less it included that most interesting country. Then on landing at Singapore our Consul, Major Struder, met the General with a letter from the King of Siam — a letter en- closed in an envelope made of blue satin. The text of the letter was as follows: — The Grand Palace, Bangkok, 4th Feb., 1879. My Dear Sir : — Having heard from my Minister for For- eign Affairs, on the authority of the United States Consul, that you are expected in Singapore on your way to Bangkok, I beg to express the pleasure I shall have in making your acquaintance. Possibly you may arrive in Bangkok during my absence at my country residence. Bang Pa In. In which case a steamer will be placed at your disposal to bring you to me. On arrival, I beg you to communicate with His Excellency, my Minister for Foreign Affairs, who will arrange for your reception and entertainment. Yours, very truly, ^ CHULAHLONGKOEN, E. S. To General Grant, late President of the United States. The letter of the King, which he had taken the trouble to send all the way to Singapore, added to the opinion ex- TOUR AllOUND THE WORLD. 413 pressed by the General that when people really go around the world they might as well see what is to be seen, decided the visit to Siam. A despatch had been received from Cap- tain Benliam, commanding the Richmond, that he would 1)8 at Galle on the 12th, which would enable him to reach KSingapore about the time that we returned from Siam. This was a consideration, especially to the homesick people, who felt that there would be compensation in meeting Amer-' icans — in being once more among citizens of the greatest country of the world, with whom we could talk intelligently on sensible themes. So a letter was addressed to Captain Benham, asking him to await us by stopping at Singapore, and our party prepared for Siam. On the morning of the 14th of April, land was around us, and there w^as a calm, smooth sea. At ten we came to the bar, where we were to expect a steamer or a tug. We all doifed our ship garments, and came out in ceremoni- ous attires to meet our friends, the Siamese. But there was no crossing the bar, and for hours and hours we waited, and no steamer came. It seems that we had made so rapid a trip that no one was expecting us, and there we were in the mud, on a bar, and Siam before us, within an hour's sail of Paknam. The day passed and the night came, and at ten the tides would be high, and we would slip over the mud and be at our anchorage at eleven, and up to Bang- kok in the cool of the morning, always so precious an ad- vantage in Eastern travel. At nine we began to move under the guidance of a pilot, and after moving about for an hour or so, to the disappointment of those of us on deck, who watched the lights on shore and were impatient for Paknam, we heard the engines reverse, we felt the ship back with throbbing speed, and in a few minutes the grumbling of the cable as the anchor leaped into^ the water. There was no Paknam, no Siam, for that night, in LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The pilot had lost his way, and instead of a channel, we were rapidly going on the shore, when the captain discov- ered the error, and stopped the ship. Well, this was a disappointment, and largely confirmatory of the views shared by some of us that Providence never would smile on our trip to Siam ; but the rain came, and the sea be- came angry and chopping, and rain and sea came into the berths, and all we could do was to cluster in the small cabin. AVe found, then, that our foolish pilot had taken us away out of our course, that we were on a mud bank, that it was a mercy we had not gone ashore, and that unless the royal yacht came for us there we would remain another day. About nine in the morning the news was passed that the royal yacht was coming, and about ten she anchored within a cable length, a long, stately craft, with the American colors at the fore, and the royal colors of Siam at the main. At four o'clock the General embarked on a royal gon- dola, seven fathoms long. He was slowly pulled to shore. The guard presented arms, the cavalry escort wheeled into line, the band played "Hail Columbia." On ascending the stairs, Mr. Alabaster, the royal interpreter ; Captain Bush, an English officer commanding the Siamese Navy, and a brilliant retinue were in waitino-. The Foreign ]Min- ister advanced and welcomed the General to Siam, and pre- sented him to the other members of the suite. Then enter- ing carriages the General and party were driven to the Palace of Hwang Saranrom, the home of His Royal High- ness the Celestial Prince Bhanurangsi Swangwongse. As we drove past the barracks the artillery were drawn up in battery and the cannon rolled out a salute of twenty-one guns. On reaching the palace a guard was drawn up and another band played the American national air. At the gate of the palace Phra Sri Dhammason, of the foreign office, met the General and escorted him to the door. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 415 On the 19th the General attended a state dinner at the palace of the King of Siarn. It was an occasion of great display and utmost friendliness. The Siamese all wore state dresses, and the King wore the family decoration, a star of nine points, the centre a diamond, and the other points with a rich jewel of different character, embracing the precious stones found in Siam. The General was re- ceived in the audience-hall, and the dinner was sers^ed in the lower hall or dining-room. There were forty guests present, and the service of the table was silver, the pre- vailing design being the three-headed elephant, which belongs to the arms of Siam. This service alone cost £10,000 in England. There were two bands in attendance, one playing Siamese, the other European music, alternately. The Celestial Prince escorted Mrs. Grant to dinner, and sat opposite the King at the centre of the table. General 416 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Grant sat next the King. The dinner was long, elaborate, and in the European style, with the exception of some dishes of curry dressed in Siamese fashion, which we were not brave enough to do more than taste. The night was warm, but the room was kej^t moderately cool by a system of i^enekahs, or large fans, swinging from the ceiling, which kept the air in circulation. After we had been at the table about three hours, there was a pause and a signal. The fans stopped, the music paused, and Mr. Alabaster, as inter2:)reter, took his place behind the King. His Majesty then arose, and the com- pany with him, and, in a clear accent heard all over the saloon, addressed the General. In response General Grant proposed the health of the King. This toast was drunk with cheers, the comj^any rising and the band playing the national air of Siam. The King then led the way to the upper audience-chamber, the saloon of the statues. Here ensued a long conversation between the King and the General and the various members of the party. Mrs. Grant, in the inner room, had a conversa- tion with the Queen, who had not been at table. In con- versing with the General, the King became warm and almost affectionate. He was proud of having made the acquaintance of the General, and he wanted to know more of the American people. He wished Americans to know that he was a friend of the country. As to the General himself, the King hoped when the General returned to the United States that he would write the King and allow the King to write to him, and always be his friend and correspondent. The General said he would always re^ member his visit to Siam; that it would afford him pleasure to know that he was the friend of the King; that he would write to the King and always be glad to hear from him, and if he ever could be of service to the King it would be a j^leasure. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 417 Leaving Siam they proceeded to Canton, at the mouth of the Hoang-Ho river. The day next following the arrival of the honored party the Viceroy gave a dinner in iionor of General Grant. Our correspondent describes it as fol- lows : — The hour fixed by the Viceroy for the dinner was six, and it was necessary for us to be under way at five. Those who went to the dinner were General Grant and party, Commodore Perkins, Engineer McEwin, Lieutenant Deering, Dr. Fitzsimons, and A. Ludlow Case, of the Ash- uelot. Our journey to the Viceroy was in the same state as when Ave made our official call. The hour was later, and it was more pleasant to ride in the cool evening than in the warm, sweltering day. Although the crowd was immense, it was not so large as on the day before. There were the same ceremonies, the same parade, the same firing of guns, and if anything even more splendor when we came to the viceregal mansion. The Viceroy, the Tartar -General and their splendidly embroidered retinues were all in waiting, and we were shown into the audience-chamber and given tea. The hall was illuminated and the gardens were dazzling with light. After the tea and the exchange of compliments between the Chinese and the members of our party, a signal was given by the ringing of silver chimes, and we marched in procession to the dining-hall. It was something of a march, because in these Oriental palaces sj)ace is well considered, and if you dine in one house you sleep in another and bathe in a third. The dining-room was open on the gardens, apparently open on three sides. Around the open sides was a wall of servants, attendants, soldiers, mandarins, and if you looked beyond into the gardens, under the corruscating foliage, burdened with variegated lanterns, you saw groups and lines, all star- ing in upon us. I had always heard of a Chinese dinner as among the 418 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. eccentric features of their civilization. Our table was a series of tables, forming three sides of a square. The sides of the tables that formed the interior of the square were not occupied. Here the servants moved about. At each table were six persons, with the exception of the principal table, which was given up to General Grant, the Viceroy, the Tartar General, Mr. Borie, and Mr. Holcombe. Be- hind the Viceroy stood his interpreter and other personal servants. Attendants stood over the other tables with large peacock fans, which was a comfort, the night was so warm. The dinner was entirely Chinese, with the exception of the knives, forks, and glasses. But in addition to the knives and forks we had chopsticks, with which some of the party made interesting experiments in the way of searching out ragout and soup dishes. At each of the tables were one or two of our Chinese friends, and we were especially fortu- nate at having with us a Chinese officer who spoke English well, having learned it at the mission-school of Dr. Hopper. The custom in China is not to give you a bill of fa^-e over which you can meditate, and if the dinner has any resources whatever, compose a minor dinner of your own. A servant comes to each table and lays down a slip of r<^d tea-box paper inscribed with Chinese characters. This is the name of the dish. Each table was covered with dishes, which remained there during the dinner — dishes of every- thing except bread — sweetmeats and cakes j^redominating. The courses are brought in bowls and set down in the middle of the table. Your Chinese friend, whose polite- ness is unvarying, always helps you before he helps him- self. He dives his two chopsticks into the smoking bowl and lugs out a savory morsel and drops it on your j)hite. Then he helps himself frequently, not troubling the plate, but eating directly from the bowl. If the dish is a dainty shark's fins or bird's-nest soup, all the Chinese go to work TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 419 at the same bowl and with the same chopsticks, silver and ivory, which were not changed during the entire dinner, but did service for fish and fowl and sweetmeats. Between each course were cigars or jDipes. The high Cliinamen had pipe-bearers with them, and as each course was ended they would take a whiff. But the cigars came as a relief to the smoking members of the party ; for they could sit and look on and enjoy the spectacle, and have the opera sensation of looking at something new and strange. The cigars, too, were an excuse for not eating, and at a Chinese dinner an excuse for not eating is welcome. There is no reason in the world why you should not eat a Chinese dinner, ex- ce2:)t that you are not accustomed to it. The one thing which gave the dinner a touch of poetry was the bird's-nest soup. The fact that the Chinese have found a soup in the nest of a bird is one of the achieve- ments of their civilization. So when our Chinese General told us, as he read the cabalistic letters on red tea-chest paper, that the next dish was to be bird's-nest soup, we awakened to it as to the realization of a new mystery. One of the disadvantages of getting on in life is that you have fewer and fewer sensations, that you know everything. Canton and its sights are described : — One notable sight was the Hall of the Five Hundred Disciples of Buddha. The street boys, divining our intention, ran ahead, and after some knocking, the gate was opened, and we entered under a covered way into a penstyle, at- tendants and priests personally giving us welcome. We passed through granite cloisters, and into the hall where there are 504 statues of clay, gilded, to the memory of cer- tain disciples of the Lord Buddha, famous in the religious history of China. There are images of Buddha, or rather of three Buddhas ; also of the Emperor Kienlung, a highly- beloved monarch, who sits on the dragon throne. 420 LIFE OF GENEEAL GRANT. The narrow, dirty streets are paved with long, narrow slabs of stone ; no sidewalks. Every house that we passed on our way was a bazaar, and consisted of one oj^en door, that led into a spacious room. In some of these there were spiral stairways that led to storerooms or dwelling cham- bers. We found some idea of the wealth of Canton, and of the wants of the country which it sup^Dlies, when we remembered how vast a trade these bazaars represented. In looking over a jDlan of the city I had been struck with the names of the streets, the poetical and devotional spirit they expressed. There was no glorification of mere human kings, and you could almost fancy that you were reading of some allegorical city, like what Bunyan saw in his dream. There was Peace street, and the street of Benev- olence and Love. Another, by some violent wrench of the imagination, was the street of Kefreshing Breezes. Some contented mind had given a name to the street of Early Bestowed Blessings. The paternal sentiment, so sacred to the Chinamen, found exj^ression in the street of One Hundred Grandsons, and the street of One Thousand Grandsons. There was the street of a Thousand Beati- tudes, which, let us pray, were enjoyed by its founder. There were streets consecrated to Everlasting Love, to a Thousand-fold Peace, to Ninefold Brightness, to Accumu- lated Blessings, while a practical soul, who knew the value of advertising, named his avenue the Market of Golden Profits. Chinese mythology gave the names of the As- cending Dragons, the Saluting Dragon, and the Beposing Dragon. Other streets are named after trades and avoca- tions, and it is noticeable that in Canton, as in modern towns, the workers in various callings cluster together. There is Betel-nut street, where you can buy the betel-nut, of which we saw so much in Siam, and tlie cocoanut, and drink tea. There is where the Chinese hats are sold, and SENDING WRITTEN PRAYERS TO HEAVEN BY BURNING THEM. 421 422 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. wliere you can buy the finery of a mandarin for a dollar or two. There is Eyeglass street, where the compass is sold, and if you choose to buy a compass, there is no harm in remembering that we owe the invention of that subtle instrument to China. Another street is given to the manu- facture of bows and arrows, another to Prussian blue, a third to the j^reparation of furs. The stores have signs in Chinese characters, gold letters on a red or black ground, which are hung in front, a foot or two from the wall, and droop before you as you pass under them, producing a j^e- culiar eftect, as of an excess of ornamentation, like Paris on a fete day. The habit to which you are accustomed in Paris of giving the store a fanciful or poetic name prevails in Canton. One merchant calls his house " Honest Gains." Another, more ambitious, names his house " Great Gains." One satisfied soul proclaims his store to be a " Never End- ing Success," while his neighbor's is " Ten Thousand Times Successful." There is the store called " Ever Enduring," and others adopt a spirit not common in trade by speaking of their shops as " Heavenly Happiness " and " By Heaven Made Prosperous." Others more j^ractical signify by some image the nature of their trade, and over their stores you see representations of a shoe, a fan, a hat, a boot, a collar, and a pair of spectacles. Canton, next to Pekin, the most celebrated of Chinese cities, the one at least best known to foreigners, goes back to the fourth century before Christ, and is among the most ancient cities of the world. It was supposed to have been a muddy stockade surrounded with bamboo defences. Our visit to Hong Kong at this time was to be present at a garden-party which had been arranged by the citizens ; but the weather interfered, and the General was compelled to leave on Monday, to keep engagements which had been made for him in the north. While in Hong Kong, we TOUR AROUND THE WOULD. 423 witnessed a strange ceremony. It was strange; to u^, al- though so common here. It was the sending of written prayers to heaven by burning them. He spent Sunday quietly with the Governor, and on Monday morning took leave of his brilliant and hospitable host. Before leaving, the General, accompanied by the Governor and our Con- sul, Colonel John S. Moseby, received a deputation of Chi- nese who wished to present him with an address. The presentation took place in the parlors of the Government House. General Grant made a very pleasing response to the address, in which he thanked them for their kindness, and expressed the wish that harmony might continue be- tween their country and his own. After giving the address, the General and party, ac- companied by Governor Hennessy and wife and Colonel Moseby, took chairs and proceeded to the landing to embark for the north. There was a guard of honor at the wharf, and all the foreign residents Avere present. As the General went on board the launch, hearty cheers were given, which were again and again repeated as he steamed into the bay. The Governor took his leave of General Grant on board the Ashuelot, and as he left the vessel fired a salute of seventeen guns in his honor, with the British flag at the fore. 27 CHAPTER XXVIII. SHANGHAI A GLAD WELCOME A QUIET SABBATH AN IM- POSING SCENE — LI HUNG CHANG THE VICEROY VISITS GRANT — THE FETE AT THE FRENCH CONSUL' S — PEKIN A TOUNG EMPEROR. After leaving Hong Kong General Grant's trip along the coast of China was exceptionally pleasant, so far as winds and waves were concerned. There was a monsoon blowing, but it was just enough to help us along without disturbing the sea. On the morning of the 13th we came to Swatow, one of the treaty ports open to foreigners. The stay here was short, but the Chinese Governor called in state and extended all possible hospitality. This is one of the ports now open to foreigners- It is })leasantly situated on the river Flan, and the view on approaching it is beautiful and striking. At Amoy a brief stop was made, and then they steamed on to Shanghai. On the morning of the 17th the "Ashnelot," commanded by Commander Johnson, who relieved Commander Per- kins in Hong Kong, came in sight of the Woosung forts, which fired twenty-one guns. We had had a pleasant run from Amoy, a stiff breeze helping us along. As soon as the firing of the Chinese forts ceased, the batteries of the "Iron Duke," the flagship of the Admiral commanding the British fleet in China, ran up the American flag to the fore and fired twenty-one guns. The Chinese gunboats (4l'4J TOUR AIIOUND THE WOULD. 42o joined in the chorus, and the Ashiielot returned the salutes. There was so much cannonading and so much smoke, that it seemed as if a naval battle were raging. As the smoke lifted, the American man-of-war Monocaey was seen steam- ing towards us, dressed from stem to stern. As she a]i- proached a salute was fired. We were a little ahead of the time appointed for our reception in Shanghai, and ■when the Monocaey came within a cable length both Tessels came to an anchor. A boat came from the Monoc- aey, carrying the committee of citizens who were to meet the General — Messrs. R. W. Little, F. B. Forbes, Helland, Purden, and Hiibbe. The committee was accompanied by Mr. D. W. Bailey, the American Consul-General for China, wdio joresented the members to General Grant, and by Mrs. Little and Mrs. Holcombe, who came to meet INIr.s. Crrant. The committee lunched with the General, and '•about half-past one the Ashuelot slowly steamed up to tl'je ■city. As we came in sight of the shipping the sight was very beautiful. The different men-of-war all fired salut^?s •and manned yards, the merchantmen at anchor weve dressed, and as the Ashuelot passed the crews cheered. The General stood on the quarter-deck and bowed his thanks. As we came to the spot selected for landing, the banks of the river were thronged with Chinamen. It is •estimated that at least one hundred thousand lined the banks, but figures are, after all, guesses, and fail to give you an idea of the vast, fiir-extending, patient, and silent multitude. It was Saturday afternoon, the holiday, and re- «ented, and, after a few minutes' pause, our j^arty stepped into jinrickshaws and were taken to our quarters. The jinrickshaw is the common vehicle of Jaj^an. It is built on the principle of a child's perambulator or an in- valid's chair, except that it is much lighter. Two men go ahead and pull, and one behind pushes ; but this only on occasions of ceremony. One man is quite able to manage a jinrickshaw. • Those used by the General had been sent down from Tokio, from the palace. Our quarters in Na- gasaki had been prepared in the Japanese town. A build- ing used for a female normal school had been prepared. It was a half mile from the landing, and the whole road had been decorated with flags, American and Japanese entwined, with arches of green boughs and flowers. Both sides of the road were lined with people, who bowed low to the General as he passed. On reaching our residence, tlie Japanese officials of the town were all presented. Then -came the foreign Consuls in a body, who were presented by 438 LIFE OF GE:NFliAL GKANT. the American Consul, Mr. Mangiim, After this came the officers of the Japanese vessels, all in uniform. Then came a delegation representing the foreign residents of all nation- alties in Nagasaki, who asked to j^resent an address. This address was read by Mr. Farber, one of the oldest foreign residents in Japan. The General responded in his usual quiet and agreeable manner. On the evening of June 22d, Mr. Bingham, the Amer- ican Minister to Japan, came to Nagasaki in the mail- steamer, and was met on landing by General Grant. The Minister was fresh from home. And it w^as pleasant, not only to meet an old friend, but one who could tell us of the tides and currents in home affairs. There were dinners and fetes innumerable during our stay in Nagasaki. On the 24th, a grand dinner was given the visitors. The bill of fare was almost a volume, and embraced over fifty courses. The wine was served in unglazed 2:)orcelain wine-cups, on white wooden stands. The appetite wi\s pampered in the beginning with dried fish, edible seaweeds, and isinglass, in something of the Scandinavian style, e:?v- cept that the attempt did not take the form of brandy and raw fish. The first serious dish was composed of crane, seaweed, moss, rice, bread, and potatoes, which we picked over in a curious way as thougli we were at an auction sale of remnants, anxious to rummage out a bargain. The soup, when it first came, — for it came many times, — was an honest soup of fish, like a delicate fish-chowder. Then came strange dishes, as ragout and as soup in bew^ildering confusion. The first was called namasu and embodied fish, clams, chestnuts, rock-mushrooms, and ginger. Then, in various combinations, the following : — Duck, truffles, tur- nips, dried bonito, melons, pressed salt, aromatic shrubs, snipe, egg-plant, jelly, boiled rice, snapper, shrimp, pota- toes, mushroom, cabbage, lassfish, orange flowers, powdered 440 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. fish, flavored with plum-juice and walnuts, raw carp sliced, mashed fish, baked fish, isinglass, fish boiled with pickled beans, wine, and rice again. This all came in the first course, and as a finale to the course, there was a sweetmeat composed of white and red bean jelly-cake, and boiled black mushroom. With this came jDowdered tea, which had a green, monitory look, and suggested your early exjjeriences in medicine. While our hosts are passing around the strange dishes, a signal is made, and the musicians enter. They are maid- ens, with fair, pale faces and small, dark, serious eyes. You are pleased to see that their teeth have not been blackened, as was the custom in past days, and is even now almost a prevalent custom among the lower classes. We are told that the maidens who have come to grace our feast are not of the common singing-class, but the daughters of the mer- chants and leading citizens of Nagasaki. The first group is composed of three. They enter, sit down on the floor and bow their heads in salutation. One of the instruments is shaped like a guitar, another is something between a banjo and a drum. They wear the costume of the country, the costume that was known before the new days came upon Japan. They have blue silk gowns, white collars, and heavily brocaded pearl-colored sashes. The principal in- strument was long and narrow, shaped like a coffin-lid, and sounding like a harpsichord. After they had played an overture, another group entered, fourteen maidens similarly dressed, each carrying the small banjo-like instrument, and ranging themselves on a bench against the wall, the tapestry and silks suspended over them. Then the genius of the artist was apparent, and the rich depending tapestry, blended with the blue and white and pearl, and animated with the faces of the maidens, their music, and their songs, made a picture of Japanese life which an artist might envy. TOUR APtOUND THE WORLD. 441 The strange dinner came to an end after a struggle of six or seven hours, and as we drove home through tli(i ilhiminated town, brilliant with lanterns and fireworks, and arches and bonfires, it was felt that we had been honored by an entertainment such as we may never again exj)ect to see. A visit was also made to Yokohama. Here too the distinguished visitor was received with glad ovations. Civic and military authorities sought to do him honor, and there was really no end to the round of festivities and fetes that were showered upon the illustrious General. Concerning the visit to the Emperor at Tokio, Mr. Young writes : We drove through the daimios' quarter and tbrough the gates of the city. The first impression of Tokio is that it is a city of walls and canals. The walls are crude and solid, protected by moats. We j^assed under the walls of an enclosure which was called the castle. Here we are told the Emperor will build his new palace. We crossed another bridge — I think there were a dozen altogether in the course of the drive — and came to a modest arched gate- way which did not look very imposing. Soldiers were drawn up and the band played Hail Columbia. Our carriages drove on past one or two modest buildings and drew up in front of another modest building, on the steps of which the Minister Iwakura was standing. The General and party descended and were cordially welcomed and escorted up a narrow stairway into an anteroom. When you have seen most of the available palaces in the world, from the glorious home of Anrungzebe to the depressing mighty cloister of the Escurial, you are sure to have preconceived notions of what a palace should be, and to expect something unique and grand in the home of the long hidden and sacred ]\Iajesty of Japan. The home of 442 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the Emperor was as simple as that of a country gentleman at home. What marked the house was its simplicity and taste ; qualities for which my j^alace education had not pre- pared me. Here we are in a suite of plain rooms, the ceil- ings of wood, the walls decorated with natural scenery — the furniture sufficient but not crowded — and exquisite in style and finish. There is no pretence of architectural emotion. The rooms are large, airy, with a sense of sum- mer about them which grows stronger as you look out of the window and down the avenues of trees. We are told that the grounds are spacious and fine, even for Japan, and that His Majesty, who rarely goes outside of his palace grounds, takes what recreation he needs within the walls. The palace is a low building, one or at most two stories in height. They do not build high walls in Japan, and especially in Tokio, where earthquakes are ordinary inci- dents, and the first question to consider in building up is how far you can fall. We enter a room where all the Ministers are assembled. The Japanese Cabinet is a fa- mous body, and tested by laws of physiognomy would com- pare with that of any Cabinet I have seen. The Prime Minister is a striking character. He is small, slender, with an almost girl-like figure, delicate, clean-cut, winning features, a face that might be that of a boy of twenty or a man of fifty. The other Ministers looked like strong, able men. Iwakura has a striking face, with lines showing firmness and decision, and you saw the scar which marked the attempt of the assassin to cut him down and slay him, as Okubo, the greatest of Japanese statesmen, was slain not many months ago. That assassination made as deep an im- pression in Japan as the killing of Lincoln did in Amer- ica. We saw the spot where the murder was done on our way to the palace, and my Japanese friend who pointed it out spoke in low tones of sorrow and affection, tind said TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 448 the crime there committed had been an irreparable loss to Japan. A lord in waiting, heavily braided, with a nniform that Louis XIV. would not have disliked in Versailles, comes softly in and makes a signal, leading the way. The Gen- eral and Mrs. Grant escorted by Mr. Bingham, and our retinue followed. The General and the Minister were in evening dress. The naval officers were in full uniform, Colonel Grant wearing the uniform of lieutenant-colonel. We walked along a short passage and entered another room, at the flirther end of which were standing the Emperor and the Empress. Two hidies in waiting were near them in a sitting, what appeared to be a crouching, attitude. Two other princesses were standing. These were the only occupants of the room. Our party slowly advanced, the Japanese making a profound obeisance, bending the head almost to a right angle with the body. The royal princes formed in line near the Emperor, along with the princesses. The Emperor stood quite motionless, apparently unobserv- ant or unconscious of the homage that was paid him. He is a young man with a slender figure, taller than the aver- age Japanese, and of about the middle height, according to our ideas. The Empress, at his side, wore the Japanese costume, rich and plain. Her face was very white and her form slender and almost childlike. Her hair was combed plainly and braided with a gold arrow. The Emperor and Empress have agreeable faces, the Emperor es])ecially showing firmness and kindness. The solemn etiquette that pervaded the audience-chamber was peculiar, and might appear strange to those familiar with the stately but cordial manners of a European Court. But one must remember that the Emperor holds so high and so sacred a place in the traditions, the religion, and the political system of Japan, that even the ceremony of to-day is so far in advance of 444 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. anything of the kind ever known in Japan, that it might be called a revolution. The Emperor, for instance, as our group was formed, advanced and shook hands with the General. After he had shaken hands with the General, he re- turned to his place, and stood with his hand resting on his sword, looking on at the brilliant, embroidered, gilded company as though unconscious of their presence. Mr. Bingham advanced and bowed, and received just the faint- est nod in recognition. The other members of the party were each presented by the Minister, and each one stand- ing about a dozen feet from the Emperor, stood and bowed . Then the General and Mrs. Grant were presented to the princesses, eacli party bowing to the other in silence. The Emperor then made a signal to one of the noblemen, who advanced. The Emperor spoke to him for a few moments, in a low tone, the nobleman standing with bowed head. The morning of the 7th of July was set apart by the Emperor for a review of the troops. The Emperor of Japan is fond of his army, and was more anxious to show it to General Grant than any other institution in the Em- pire. Great preparations had been made to have it in readiness, and all Tokio was out to see the j^ageant. The review of the army by the Emperor in itself is an event that causes a sensation. But the review of the army by the Emperor and the General was an event which had no precedent in Japanese history. The hour for the review was nine, and at half-past eight the clatter of horsemen and the sound of bugles were heard in the palace grounds. In a few moments the Emperor's state carriage drove up, the drivers in scarlet livery and the panels decorated with the imperial flower, the chrysanthemum. General Grant entered, accompanied by Prince Dati, and the cavalry formed a hollow square, and our procession moved on to "-' ^ t ' . *..' '^Ht^ ^ '^ / A-,V5^* 445 446 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the field at a slow pace. A drive of twenty minutes brought us to the parade-ground, a large open plain, the soldiers in line, and behind the soldiers a dense mass of people — men, women, and children. As the General's procession slowly turned into the parade-ground a group of Japanese officers rode up and saluted, the band j)layed "Hail Columbia," and the soldiers presented arms. Two tents had been arranged for the reception of the guests. In the larger of the two we found assembled officers of state, representatives of foreign Powers, Governor Hen- nessy, of Hong Kong, all in bright, glowing uniforms. The smaller tent was for the Emperor. When the Gen- eral dismounted he was met by the Minister of War and escorted into the smaller tent. In a few minutes the trum- pets gave token that the Emperor was coming, and the band played the Japanese national air. His Majesty was in a state carriage, surrounded with horsemen and accom- panied by one of his Cabinet. As the Emperor drove uj) to the tent, General Grant advanced to the carriage-steps and shook hands with him, and they entered and remained a few minutes in conversation. At the close of the review General Grant and party drove off" the ground in state, and were taken to the Shila palace. This palace is near the sea, and as the grounds are beautiful and attractive, it was thought best that the breakfast to be given to General Grant by His Majesty should take place here. The Emperor received the Gen- eral and party in a large, plainly furnished room, and led the way to another room where the table was set. The decorations of the table were sumptuous and royal. Gen- eral Grant sat on one side of the Emperor, whose place was in the centre. Opposite was Mrs. Grant, who sat next to Prince Arinagawa, the nearest relative to the Emperor, and the commander-in-chief of the army. I TOUR AROUND THE AVORLD. 447 The Emperor conversed a great deal with General Grant through Mr. Yoshida, and also Governor Ilennessy. His Majesty expressed a desire to have a private and friendly conference with the General, which it was ar- ranged should take place after the General's return from Nikko. The feast lasted for a couple of hours, and the view from the table was charming. At the time appointed the General and the Emperor met for their personal interview. General Grant said he was entirely at the service of the Emperor, and was glad, indeed, to see him and thank His Majesty for all the kindness he had received in Japan. He might say that no one outside of Japan had a higher interest in the country, or a more sincere friendship for its people. An interesting conversation followed, during which General Grant used his good offices with the Japanese Govern- ment on the question of Loochoo. The sojourn of the travellers in the East had already extended beyond the time which they had originally set for their return, and they began to cast their eyes ocean- ward and sigh for their native land. It was, therefore, decided that they should return ; but even when that conclusion had been reached, several days were required for preparation. Of these last days and hours in Tokio, Mr. Young writes : Our last days in Japan were crowded with incidents of a personal and public character. I use the word personal to describe events that did not find their way into the newspapers nor belong to public receptions. There w^ere constant visits to the General from members of the Cabinet ; from Mr. Iwakura, especially, who came to talk about public affairs. There were conferences on the Loochoo question, when General Grant used his best ef!brts to bring China and Japan to a good understanding. The effect of these conversations history alone can tell. 448 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. After a further round of regal entertainments the day at length arrived for General Grant to take his formal farewell of the Emperor. An audience of leave-taking under any circumstances is apt to be a solemn ceremony, and the Court of Japan pays due respect to splendor and state. A farewell to the Mikado meant more in the eyes of General Grant than if it had been the ordinary leave- taking of a monarch who had shown him hospitality. He had received attentions from the sovereign and people such as had never been given. He had been honored not alone in his own person, but as the representative of his country. His visit had this political significance, that the Japanese government intended by the honors they paid him to show the value they gave to American friendship and their grat- itude. In many ways the visit of the General had taken a wide range, and what he would say to the Emperor would have great importance, because every word he uttered would be weighed in every Japanese household. General Grant's habit in answering speeches and addresses is to speak at the moment, without previous thought or preparation. On sev- eral occasions, when bodies of people made addresses to him, they sent copies in advance, so that he might read them and prepare a response. But he always declined these courte- sies, saying that he would wait until he heard the address in public, and his best response would be what came to him on the instant. The farewell to the Emperor was so im- portant, however, that the General did what he had not done before during our journey — he wrote out in advance the speech he proposed making to His Majesty. I mention this circumstance simply because the incident is an exceptional one, and because it showed General Grant's anxiety to say to the Emperor and the people of Japan what would be most becoming in return for their kindness, and what would best conduce to good relations between the two nations. TOUR AEOUND THE WORLD. 449 The warmest words could only give faint expression to the feelings with which we took leave of many of those who had come to the steamer to pay us parting courtesy. These gentlemen were not alone princes — rulers of an Empire, noblemen of rank and lineage, Ministers of a sovereign whose guests we had been — but friends. And in saying farewell to them we said farewell to so many and so much, to a country where every hour of our stay had a special value, to a civilization which had profoundly impressed us and which awakened new ideas of what Japan had been, of her Teal place in the world and of what her place might be, if stronger nations shared her generosity or justice. We had been strangely won by Japan, and our last view of it was a scene of beauty. Yokohama nestled on her shore, against which the waters of the sea were idly rolling. Her hills were dowered with foliage, and here and there were houses and groves and flagstaffs, sentinels of the outside world which had made this city their encampment. In the far distance, breaking through the clouds, so faint at first that you had to look closely to make sure that you were not deceived by the mists, Fusiyama towered into the blue and bending skies. Around us w^ere men-of-war shimmering in the sunshine, so it seemed, with their multitudinous flags. There was the hurry, the nervous bustle and excitement, the glow of energy and reeling which always mark the last moments of a steamer about to sail. Our naval friends went back to their ships. Our Yokohama friends went off in their tugs, and the last we saw of General Van Buren was a distant and vanishing figure in a state of pantomime, as though he were delivering a Fourth of July oration. I presume he was cheering. Then our Japanese friends took leave, and went on board their steam-launch to accompany us a part of our journey. The Japanese man-of-war has her anchor up, slowly steaming, ready to carry us out to 450 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. sea. The last line that binds us to our anchorage is thrown off, and the huge steamer moves slowly through the ship- ping. We 2^ass the Kichmond near enough to recognize our friends on the quarter-deck — the Admiral and his officers. You hear a shrill word of command, and seamen go scampering up the rigging to man the yards. The guns roll out a salute. Vie pass the Ashuelot, and her guns take up the iron chorus. We pass the Monongahela, so close almost that we could converse with Captain Fitzhugh and the gentlemen who are waving us/ farewell. Her guns thunder good-by, and over the bay the smoke floats in waves — floats on toward Fusiyama. We hear the cheers from the Ranger. Very soon all that we see of our vessels are faint and distant phantoms, and all tliat we see of Yoko- hama is a line of gray and green. We are fast speeding on toward California. For an hour or so, the Japanese man-of-war, the same which met us at Nagasaki and came with us through the Inland Sea, keeps us company. The Japanese Cabinet are on board. We see the smoke break from her ports, and we hurry to the Stide of our vessel to wave farewell — farewell to so many friends, so many friends kind and true. This is farewell at last, our final token of good-will, from Japan. The man-of-war fires twenty-one guns. The Japanese sailors swarm on the rig- ging and give hearty cheers. Our steamer answers by blowing her steam-whistle. The man-of-war turns slowly around and steams back to Yokohama. Very soon she also becomes a phantom, vanishing over the horizon. Then, gathering herself like one who knows of a long and stern task to do, our steamer breasts the sea with an earnest will — for California and for home. CHAPTER XXX. OENERAL GRANT AND HIS PARTY EN ROUTE FOR SAN FRAN- CISCO PREPARATIONS FOR GRANT's RECEPTION THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE STEAMER — THE ENTRANCE OF THE " CITY OF TOKIO " THE LANDING A GRAND PROCESSION A MAGNIFICENT SCENE AT THE PALACE HOTEL — A GRAND CHORUS^A CLAMORING PEOPLE GENERAL GRANT SPEAKS RECEPTION AT TUBB's HOTEL. The voyage across the Pacific was a pleasant one. General Grant passed the greater part of the time in reading, occasionally joining briefly in social conversation with his fellow-passengers. As the end of the journey drew near, all eyes were strained to catch a glimpse of the land so dear to them — their own, their native land. Meanwhile, extensive preparations were being made in San Francisco for the reception of the distinguished trav- eller. Although the City of Tokio was not due until the 21st, the people began to look for its arrival as early as the 18th. The whole city was on the qui vive. A lookout was established to announce the first appearance of the in- coming steamer. At about mid-day, Saturday, September 20th, ihe steamer was sighted ofi' " the Heads." The ftict was at once telegraphed to the city. The first tap of the bell and the hoisting of the flag on the Merchants' Exchange, announcing the approach of the steamer City of Tokio, startled the city from the spell of suspense that had prevailed for three days, and transformed idle throngs that were lounging about the streets into ex- (451) 452 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. cited and hurrying crowds. Bells began to ring, steam-l whistles to scream, and the thunder of cannon to reverber- ■ ate over the hills and harbor. Thousands of men, women, and children, on foot, in carriages and on horseback, began to pour out in the dii action of Presidio Heights, Point Lobos, Telegraph Hill, and every other eminence in the vicinity, eager to catch the first glance of the incoming ship bearing the guest for whose reception so great prepa- rations had been made and whose arrival had been so anx- iously anticipated. Crowds hurried towards the wharves where the steamers and yachts that were to take part in the nautical pageant were lying. Immediately on receipt of xhe intelligence that the steamer was nearing port, the Reception Committee re- paired to the tug Millen Griffith, lying, with steam up, at the Pacific mail-dock, and at once started to meet the incoming steamer. The Millen Griffith stood well out to sea, and several miles outside the Heads met the City of Tokio coming in. The tug drew alongside, and the first one who went on board the steamer was Ulysses S. Grants Jr., who affectionately received his j)arents, and soon after the staid and handsome son, with his arm around his mother, was pointing out to her the principal features of the landscape. The General and his suite were on the bridge of the steamer, and the committee, hurrying on board, were con- ducted immediately to him. About the same time, the government steamer McPherson, with General McDowell and staff, ranged alongside, and the party came on board. No formalities were indulged in ; but crowding around General Grant, the committee and the General and officers were greeted with hearty shakes of the hand, the band on Dne of the steamers playing " Home Again." General Grant was then welcomed to the Pacific coast. 454 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. While this was transpiring, the General Committee of Arrmigements, with several thousand invited guests, as- sembled on board the large, sidewheel Pacific maii-steamer China and a number of smaller steamers, while tugs took squadrons of the San Francisco and Pacific j^acht clubs in tow and started down the channel. In the meantime, it seemed as though the whole j^opu- lation of the city — men, women, and children — had sought positions from which a view of the naval pageant could be obtained. Every eminence commanding the channel was black with assembled thousands. Telegraph Hill was a living mass of human bodies, and the heights beyond Presidio, the Clay Street Hill, the sea wall at North Point, and every pier-head were covered with spectators. The sun was declining in the wTst as the steamers and yachts, gay with bunting, moved down the channel. Low clouds hung along the western horizon. Mount Tamau- lipas and the distant mountains north of the Bay were veiled in a mist, and Mission Hill and the seaward heiohts of the Peninsula were shrouded in a fog, but the channel was unobstructed, and the bold outlines of the Golden Gate rose sharjjly against the sky, while the Bay itself, with the islands and shores of Alameda and Contra Costa, were bathed in sunlight. From every flagstaff in the city flags were flying, and the shipping along the city front was brilliantly decked with ensigns, festooned flags and stream- ers. The impatient crowds that covered the hilltops stood straining their eyes to catch the first glimpse of the Tokio. A hundred times the cry was raised, "There she comes!" as chance arrivals came in view between the Heads. It was half-past five o'clock when a puff of white smoke from seaward, from off the earthworks back of and above Fort Point, and the booming of a heavy gun announced that the steamer was near at hand. Another and another TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 45o followed in rapid succession. Fort Point next joined in the cannonade, firing with both casemate and barbette guns, and the battery at Lime Point added its thunders to the voice of welcome. In a few moments the entrance to the harbor was veiled in wreaths of smoke, and as the batteries of Angel Island, Black Point and Alcatraz opened fire in succession, the whole channel was soon shrouded in clouds from their raj^id discharges. For some time the position of the approaching ship could not be discovered, but shortly before six o'clock the outlines of the huge hull of the City of Tokio loomed through the obscurity of smoke and ra|:)idly ai^proaching shades of evening lit up by the flashes of guns, and in a few moments she glided into full view, surrounded by a fleet of steamers and tugs, gay with flags and crowded with guests, while the yacht squadron brought up the rear, festooned from deck to truck with brilliant bunting. Cheer after cheer burst from the assem- bled thousands as the vessels slowly rounded Telegrajih Hill, and were taken up by the crowds on the wharves and rolled around the city front, hats and handkerchiefs being waved in the air. The United States steamer Monterey, lying in the stream, added the roar of her guns to the general welcome, and the screaming of hundreds of steam- whistles announced that the City of Tokio had reached her anchorage. The landing was made at the foot of Market street, where the most cordial greetings were extended officially and by the popular voice, and then began the march of triumph to the Palace Hotel on Montgomery street. Night had come on, but fireworks and artificial illumina- tions made the scene brilliant as noondciy. Under arches and amid flags, festoons, music, huzzas, waving of hats and handkerchiefs, and the hearty cheering of the multitude, the destination was finally reached. 29 456 LIFE or GENERAL GllANT. The scene within the immense court of the Palace Ho- tel wa^ of surpassing beauty. Electric lights of 500 gas- jets lit up the vast interior with a brilliant glow, and the dense throngs that packed the court and filled the spacious balconies and corridors surged to and fro in anxious ex- pectancy of the coming guest, whom the packed streets had detained. At ten o'clock the wide doors were thrown open, and a barouche containing General Grant was driven within the building. He immediately dismounted, and, crowding his. way through the packed mass of human beings, was hur- ried to his room. As he alighted, Mme Fabbri and a chorus of 500 voices opened from one of the balconies with an ode of welcome. The crowd rushed after General Grant when he dis- mounted, leaving the singers for a moment almost without an audience, but being stopped in their mad course by a force of police who blocked the way, they returned to the court, being reassured by the announcement that the Gen- eral would appear oh one of the balconies after he had time to take off his overcoat. After a chorus was rendered, General Grant, in response to repeated calls, appeared on the balcony of the fourth floor, and bowed to the shouting crowd, immediately retir- ing. Still, the enthusiastic jjopulace thronged the court, and refused to leave. Finally, Mayor Bryant appeared, and announced that as soon as the General had finished his dinner he would show himself In a few minutes Gen- eral Grant appeared amid deafening and long-continued shouts. Mayor Bryant called the crowd to order, and the General, mounting a chair which was passed over the heads of the surrounding crowd, was again greeted with a succes- sion of cheers. TOUR AROUND THE AVORLD. 467 When the noise subsided, he addressed them as fol- lows : — Fellow-Citizens of San Francisco. — After twenty-five years' absence, I am glad to meet you, and assure you of my cor- dial thanks for the kind greeting you have given me. I shall stay in your city long enough to greet you more i'ully. The General then withdrew amid prolonged and tre- mendous cheering, and the crowd at length reluetantlv scattered. During his stay in San Francisco the General was feted and honored by citizens of all nationalities and classes. The veterans paraded, and receptions of various kinds, at Mayor's office and other places, were held. The Chinese consulate and residents also called and paid the General their respects. Oakland, across the bay from San Fran- cisco, also gave the General a welcome, 5,000 school- children participating with the military and civic bodies. Mrs. Grant received the ladies at Tubb's Hotel, where the General finally dined, so closing this eventful day in Oak- land. CHAPTER XXXI. GENERAL GRANT'S PARTY VISIT YOSEMITE VALLEY OREGON SAN FRANCISCO FAREWELL BANQUET NEVADA THE CONSOLIDATED VIRGINIA MINE SOUVENIRS SUTRO TUNNEL BURLINGTON, IOWA GALENA CHICAGO INDIANAPOLIS LOUISVILLE CINCINNATI COLUMBUS PITTSBURGH HARRISBURG PHILADELPHIA WELCOME HOME CHILDS' RECEPTION MANY OTHER HONORS. On the 1st of November, General Grant, accompan- ied by Mrs. Grant, U. S. Grant, Jr., J. W. Dent, General John F. Miller, wife and daughter. Miss Flora Sharon, and Miss Jennie Flood, started for Yosemite Valley, to view its beautiful scenery. A special drawing-room car was placed at their disposal, and after a pleasant ride they ar- rived at the great National Park, in which the valley is located. Several days were spent in examining its rare beauty. Yosemite Valley is one hundred and eighty-two miles east of San Francisco, and is, indeed, one of the most jdIc- turesque spots in the world. It is about seven miles long, and averaging, perhaps, one mile wide, and sunk from three-quarters to one mile below the surrounding country. It is irregular in its outlines, taking the direction of the five branches of the Merced Kiver, which put into it. The number of mountains whose vertical fronts wall this valley on nearly every side, and reach to heights varying from 1800 to 6034 feet, are seventeen. Mount Starr King is 5600 feet, or 320 feet more than one mile high. Cloud's Hest is 6034 feet, or 754 feet more than one mile high, (458) TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 459 Beyond this is seen the top of South Dome. This is oik; of the grandest mountains in the valley, when viewed from a proper point. Looking upon it from the south, its top appears a complete dome, and, polished by the Almighty hand, it stands defiantly glistening and glimmering against the sky. Between North and South Domes lies ]\Iirror Lake ; and, untouched by the fierce storms, it refiects the mountains standing around, which look more beautiful in their inverted appearance. Beyond and in the distance are seen mountains rolling higher and still higher, furnishing one of the most sublime prospectives ever produced. While still further away in the far distance are seen the highest summits of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, whose sacred tops are ever robed in white. Over these rugged heights streams of water fall, making some of the grandest cataracts in the world ; of these. Sen- tinel Falls falls the greatest distance, plunging downward from a height of 2634 feet. The Upper Yosemite Falls is an unbroken sheet of more than a quarter of a. mile in height. Boaring and rustling in its downward fiiglit, it shoots its watery rockets to the basin below, while the sun points its bright lights on the rolling, fleecy spray. Twice more the waters leap before reaching the valley. The second fall is 600 feet ; the third fall is 434 feet. Nevada Fall is terrible. For 700 feet it leaps from point to point, roaring, and breaking, and bursting, as if sent from the in- fernal regions. Its breaking, crackling, and pealing sound is like Niagara. The spray rolls out into the valley, so dense, at times, as to hide from view the fall itself Tn this spray you stand shut out from the entire world, hear- ing only the water's wild and terrible roar, while the sun surrounds you in a halo of its own glory. Here, amidst Nature's most beautiful handiwork, tlu> travellers sought rest. But even here they were greeted by 460 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. " Hail to the Chief," from a brass band which had found its way thither. Leaving the valley, they visited the other points of interest in the Park, and, after having seen the " big trees," they started for Oregon. At Portland every- body turned out to see the distinguished visitor, and a feat- ure of his reception was a ball by the Grand Army. A visit was paid to Salem, which tendered him an enthusi- astic reception. They then returned to San Francisco. The General was warmly welcomed "back to the city. He had met with kind words everywhere. In San Fran- cisco his receptions had not been confined to one political party or social class. In the evening of the same day he was given a farewell banquet at the Palace Hotel. It Avas an occasion to be remembered. The company consisted of about 250 of the most prominent gentlemen of the city. The decorations of the banqueting-hall were of the most elaborate description. The tables presented an elegant appearance, and the menu was engraved on solid silver, intended to serve the guests as souvenirs of the occa- sion, while that prepared for General Grant was of mas- sive gold. At midnight the General, his wife, and son Ulysses started for the silver-mines of Nevada. At noon of the 26th they arrived at Truckee Station, and, leaving the cars, drove in an old-style, long-spiing, brace wagon, six in hand, to see the beauties of Nature by the dark waters of Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful j^laces on the Pacific coast, or, indeed, anywhere in the United States. They had a sail on the lake, and drove into Carson in the evening b}^ the light of bonfires. The next day the party went to Virginia City. The General was greatly moved by the demonstration with which he was confronted six thousand feet above the level of the sea. Messrs. Sharon, Jones, and Fair met the General, and the reception was an imposing one. 462 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. On the following Wednesday, General Grant, accom- panied by Governor Kinkead, of Nevada, Colonel James G. Fair, U. S. Grant, Jr., Philip Deidesheimer, and some dozen invited guests, visited Sutro Tunnel, and safely re- turned to Virginia City via the Savage mine. The General then bade adieu to Virginia City, and a special train bore him eastward. As the train stopped at Reno and Winnemucca, Nevada, he was loudly cheered, the train being surrounded in each instance by a large crowd. The next point reached was Ogden, Utah, where he was warmly welcomed. From there he went to Chey- enne, where a reception was given him by the Grand Army ; and on the next day they reached Omaha, Ne- braska. This was on Saturday, November 1st, and he re- mained here until the following ]\Ionday, when a special train bore him to Burlington, Iowa. Upon his arrival, an immense crowd thronged the streets, and the city presented a gay, holiday appearance, nearly every building being pro- fusely decorated with national emblems and with flowers. The princij)al streets were liberally arched, the arches hav- ing appropriate pictures and mottoes. The Fire Depart- ment paraded the streets all the morning, while a carriage drawn by four white horses, containing General Grant, Governor Gear, and Mayor Adams, was driven about the city, escorted by the Grand Army Corps, and followed by other carriages. The enthusiasm was general. At noon a reception for the members of the j)ress was held at the Hawkeye office, and a copy of the morning's Hawkeye, printed on white silk, was presented to the General. Lunch was served at the Mayor's house, and at half-past one o'clock there was a general reception at the hotel, where there was a dense crowd eager to shake hands with the guest. Mrs. Grant also had a reception at the Mayor's house. I TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 468 From Burlington General Grant moved on Galena. As the train came in numerous salutes were fired, and the vicinity of the station was literally })acked with enthusiastic and delighted people. Militia from Galena and neighhor- ing towns was in line at the depot, and the band played "Auld Lang Syne " as General Grant descended from the carriage, with the Mayor of Galena, Governor Cullom^ Mrs. Grant and the rest of the party following. The pro- cession formed in the following order : Police. Galena, Freeport, and Dubuque Militia. Old Soldiers of Galena. Dubuque Veteran Corps. General Grant and party in carriages, and distinguished citizens of Galena. Every building was decorated, and elaborate arches were erected in several streets. The procession made a circuit of the town. The school children sang "America " in front of General Grant's family church. Finally, the procession stopped at a platform, wliere a formal greeting was extended by State Senator McClellan, in answer to which the ex-President said : Citizens of Galena. — It is with some embarrassment that I reply that your welcome is exceedingly gratifying to me ; but it is difficult for me to reply to what I have just heard, to what I have seen. Siuce I first left here, eighteen years ago, it has always been the greatest pleasure for me to return to Galena ; and now, after an absence of two and a half years from your city, during which time I have visited almost every country in the world, it is a pleasure to be greeted in this manner hy you. During my travels I received princely honors, but they were all due to" this country, and to you as citizens and as sovereigns of so great a country. When I saw during my absence, especially in the far East, how hard the inhabitants had to toil, even for a maintenance, I realized more than ever the greatness of our 464 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. country, where want is scarcely ever known and where the ques- tion of sustenance is not daily considered. I will only add that I thank you again for your reception. It was fully five minutes before the cheers, which greeted the General's speech, had subsided. The crowd then called in turn for Cullom, Gear, Smith, Logan, Alli- son, and Washburne, who each made a speech eulogizing General Grant. The General then held a reception at the De Soto House. There was a perfect jam in the afternoon at the recep- tion, which lasted until about six o'clock. In the evening the town presented a brilliant and beautiful spectacle. The main streets and buildings were bright with the illumina- tion, and the houses on the surrounding hills with the light streaming from their windows, while the rockets and Eto- nian candles, which were continually being set off from them, added greatly to the brilliancy of the scene. The church- and fire-bells rang, and the streets were crowded with people eagerly discussing the General's return and reception, the like of whicli Galena will scarcely see again. General Grant and his family dined quietly at their residence, which they found nicely fitted up for their re- ception. From half-jjast eight until ten o'clock there was a continuous stream of people on foot and in carriages, all intent upon paying their respects to the General and Mrs. Grant, who received them in a most hospitable manner. • But General Grant was not allowed to remain long at his house. Yielding to a pressing invitation, he visited Chicago on the 12th of November. The morning, which had long been looked for as the inauguration-day of un- usual festivities attending the annual meeting of the Army of the Tennessee, opened with a dull sky, and up to eight o'clock the rain fell in brisk showers. Toward nine o'clock, however, the sky became brighter and the sun came out at TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 465 times, making the prospect more favorable for the proces- sion and for decorating. At ten o'clock the Army of the Tennessee began its annual meeting at the headquarters in the Palmer House. General W. T. Sherman presided. General William E. Strong informed the 450 members present that they were to act as a guard of honor to Gen- eral Grant, and to follow him when he left the line of the procession. Owing to the short time left for arrangements, the business meeting was adjourned until four o'clock, and the rest of the session was taken up in arranging the de- tails of the procession. The principal feature of the day was the reception of General Grant by the citizens of Chicago and the Army of the Tennessee. The train from Galena, containing General Grant, ar- rived at Park Row, on the south side, promptly at one o'clock. At this time the rain was falling heavily, but in a few minutes the clouds lifted and the sun shone brightly. General Grant alighted with his party from the special car of President Ackerman, of the Illinois Central Railroad, and took a seat in the carriage provided for him. The procession at once formed, and moved from Park Row north through Michigan Avenue and other streets. The reception given by the Society of the Army of the Tennessee to General Grant took place in the evening, at Haverly's Theatre. The auditorium was beautifully deco- rated with flags, festoons of flowers, and wreaths. On either side of the stage was the inscription in evergreens, " Welcome to the Society of the Army of the Tennessee," and above the centre of the stage was " Welcome, Com- mander." There was also upon the stage a representation of the battle-ground back of Vicksburg, in charge of boys in blue, who guarded the approaches, doing regular sentry duty. The ground was strewn with munitions of war, fascines, etc. There were also arranged on each side of 466 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. tlie stage and facing the audience life-size portraits of President Lincoln and General Thomas. High above all, on large banners, were inscribed the names of the battle- fields with which the Army of the Tennessee are so well acquainted. Loesche's military band sujDplied the music. The immense building was crowded with an audience which, upon the arrival of General Grant and staff, broke into hearty applause. Upon the stage were seated many of his prominent officers, including Generals Sherman and Sheridan. Governor Cullom, Mayor Harrison, and other dignitaries, were also present. Rev. Dr. Thomas opened the exercises with prayer. On Dec. 9th, General Grant and wife left Chicago by a special train for Indianapolis and their subsequent journey east. They were accomjianied, in an elegant private car, by Assistant Postmaster-General Tyner and wife, Kev. and Mrs. W. Alvin Bartlett, Colonel and Mrs. W. R. Hollo- way, and Colonel and Mrs. J. Hill. At Logansport, a committee from Indianapolis, con- sisting of Governor Williams, Mayor Caven, General John C. New, General C. O. Woods, General J. P. Slack, and others, met General Grant and party, and escorted them to the latter city, where they arrived at half-j^ast two. The procession, which had been formed ^^revious to the arrival of the train, at once moved forward, under command of General Daniel McAuley. The streets along which they passed were profusely decorated, and immense crowds greeted General Grant at every point. Arriving at the Grand Hotel, the party j^roceeded to the balcony, where General Grant was formally welcomed by General Fred. Krefler. In replying, the General said that the honors which he had received abroad had been paid to his coun- try rather than to him. After the reception, the party were driven to the resi- TOUR AROUXD THE WORLD. 4)j7 dence of General John C. New, where General Grant dined with a few intimate friends. At quarter to eight, p. M., the General received the soldiers and citizens at the Court-House. This recej)tion continued until ten o'clock, after which the General attended a concert given by the Choral Union at the Robert's Park Church. General Grant then returned to General New's residence for the night. On the following day the party left by special train for Louisville, where he was escorted by an enthusi- astic procession to the Court-House, where he was officially "welcomed by both Mayor and Governor. General Grant and his party left Louisville in a spe- cial train at twenty-three minutes after nine o'clock, a. m., -on the following day; and at thirty-five minutes past twelve, p. M., the booming of cannon, shrieking of whistles, clanging of bells, and ringing cheers, announced that they had reached Gncinnati. The special train ran into the heart of the city to the public landing, where General Grant alighted in front of a grand triumphal arch and gateway bearing the words, " The gates of our city open to General U. S. Grant." Here Mr. Benjamin Eggleston received the party, and in a speech, as representative of all classes of citizens, welcomed him to Cincinnati. General Grant briefly responded, after which he took his place in the procession, moved on to Music Hall, where the General was heartily welcomed by the Mayor. Gen- eral Grant's response was received with loud cheers. Then followed a concert by the Thomas Orchestra. After about half an hour devoted to handshaking. General Grant re- tired, and was driven to the Gibson House for dinner. Later, he joined Mrs. Grant at the reception given by :\lr. and Mrs. Washington McLean in his honor. Mr. McLean's residence was elegantly decorated. Five hundred invita- tions to the elite of the city had been issued. 468 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. On the following day General Grant and his party visited Columbus, where they were warmly received. At the Capitol Governor Bishop delivered an address of wel- come on behalf of the State, greeting him as a native of Ohio, in whom the citizens of the State were proud to recognize a native " Buckeye." General Grant's reply was very brief, simply acknowledging the welcome. He then shook hands with the citizens and school-children. General Grant and part}^ left Columbus at one o'clock on the morning of the 1 3th, and arrived at Pittsburgh shortly after nine o'clock. A committee from the State Legislature and a citizens' committee met the train at Mansfield, and welcomed the General to the State. To avoid the crowd at the Union depot, the train was stopped at Fourth avenue and Try street, where carriages were waiting, and the party were quietly conducted to the Monongahela House. The Board of Directors of the Chamber of Commerce, representing the business interests of the city, called on General Grant at half-past ten o'clock, and Major Wil- liam Frew, on behalf of the Board, made an address of welcome, in which he referred to the various manufactur- ing interests of the city and of the benefits of resumption, to which General Grant responded appropriately, after which came the procession and welcome. At twelve o'clock the procession moved, the column being composed of the city police; Eighteenth, Nineteenth, Fourteenth, Fifteenth, and Thirteenth regiments National Guard ; Grand Army of the Republic ; General Grant in a carriage with Mayor Liddell and Judge Agnew ; legis- lative committee, in carriages; fire departments of the two cities, etc. Upon arriving at Library Hall, the formal address of welcome was delivered by Hon. Daniel Agnew, ex-Chief-Justice of the Supreme Court. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 469 Shortly after six o'clock the principals of the Pitts- burgh schools called upon him in a body, and Professor George P. Fulton delivered an address, to which the Gen- eral responded in approjoriate terms. Shortly after the Central Grant Club also called in a body to pay their re- spects. Major Gus Braun acting as spokesman. In his reply, General Grant declared that he had never voted or publicly supported the man whom they favored for Presi- dent. Different other organizations called, occupying time VLp till shortly before nine, when the General and two hun- dred citizens sat down to a banquet at the Monongahela House. The banquet was one of the most brilliant and success- ful social events in the history of the city. There were two hundred guests present. The banquet closed five min- utes before twelve, with three cheers for Grant. One peculiar feature was the fact that the Women's Christian Temperance Union, in solemn conclave, ado23ted a resolu- tion calling upon the managers of the banquet to discard I all wine at the banquet. The management at first seriously entertained the request, but subsequently decided on wine, and five brands were poured into glasses. General Grant refused to taste either brand. The next day being Sunday, the General passed the day very quietly. He attended Christ's Methodist Epis- copal Church in the morning, accompanied by General Kane, an old friend, and colonel of the Pennsylvania Bucktail regiment during the war. During the remainder of the day General Grant remained in the hotel. On Monday morning, the General and his party set out for Harrisburg, where they arrived at half-past one, p. M. They were welcomed to the city in a speech by Mayor Patterson. Immediately after alighting from the cars the distinguished visitors entered carriages, and were I 470 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. escorted to the Governor's residence by a procession, com- posed of military, posts of tlie Grand Army of the Repub- lic, civic societies, and citizens. The line of march was handsomely decorated. Upon arriving at the Executive Mansion, Governor Hoyt welcomed General Grant in a speech of considerable length, to which the General re- plied as follows : Governor. — I thank you for your cordial welcome, and through you also thank the Mayor and the people of Harrisburg and of Pennsylvania for the reception given me to-day at the capital of your State. Since I left Philadelphia for my journey abroad, and since I landed at San Francisco to travel across the continent of North America, I have received no more cordial welcome than that given me by the people of Harrisburg. My reception abroad was full of honor, Avhich I attributed to the reputation of my country and the grandeur of its institutions, not to any deservings of my own. I again thank you, Governor, for your cordial greeting. The i^rocession was then reviewed by the General, after which a reception for ladies and gentlemen, which lasted several hours, was held in the Executive Mansion. In the afternoon, the committee of the City Councils of Philadelphia arrived, and after holding a meeting at the Lochiel House, they proceeded to the Executive Mansion, where they were cordially received by General and Mrs. Grant. Governor and Mrs. Hoyt and ladies of the Gov- ernor's family were also present. The parlors of the man- sion were decorated and festooned with flowers and ferns and laurels. George S. Graham, on behalf of the city of Philadelphia, read an address of welcome, with a for- mal invitation to the General to visit Philadelphia to-mor- row, and so complete his circuit of the world. To this General Grant replied, accepting the invitation. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 471 Pursuant to arrangement the party was escorted to the depot, where they took up their quarters in a sleeping-car, preparatory to leaving for Philadelphia at six o'clock A. m. The train which bore General Grant and his party to Philadelphia was made up of five Pullman coaches. In the first car were the members of Governor Hoyt's staff*. The second car was devoted to the newspaper correspond- ents, the third to the City Council, the fourth was the coach in which the General had crossed the continent, and the last was occupied by General Grant's party. In the latter were comprised Senator J. Donald Cameron and Mrs. Cameron, General A. T. Goshorn, Governor Hoyt, and W. M. Smith, a relative of Mrs. Grant. Lancaster was passed at ten minutes past seven. It was bright daylight — a clear, cold, raw morning. The train did not stop, although a large crowd had assembled in the hope of seeing the General at the car window. The party breakfasted on the train. At Mantua the rear palace car, containing Mrs. Grant and her lady companions, was detached and taken at once to the West Philadelphia Depot, where the ladies were received by Mr. and Mrs. George W. Childs, and conducted to carriages in waiting. The party drove direct to the Continental Hotel. The remaining four cars were taken by way of the New York junction to the intersection of Broad and Somerset Streets. The point at which Mayor Stokley was waiting to re- ceive General Grant was reached at twenty minutes past nine. General Grant and his friends had moved into the fourth car when the fifth was taken into West Philadel- phia, and in this car he received the Mayor. j\Ir. Stokley was accompanied by Presidents Caven and Smith, of the Common and Select Councils ; Colonel Charles T. Jones, and a few other city officials. Upon entering the car, Mayor Stokley cordially greeted his guest. 30 472 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Then followed the procession of welcome, which for ex- tent and enthusiasm equalled any greeting ever given the great hero. Much might be written about this triumphal journey, whose itinerary led down Broad to the new public build- ings, thence around into Market, jjassing under an arch bearing the legend, " All honor to the hero of the Nine- teenth Century ; " down Market to Fourth, through which the column passed to Chestnut. The old Indej^endence Hall was decorated and festooned from the pavement to the roof, and in front was the grand triumphal arch span- ning Chestnut Street, decorated with exquisite taste, and showing the motto, "Philadelphia's Welcome to the Pa- triot and Soldier." Turning westward, the grand ovation IVIEDAL STRUCK IN THE PARADE. of the day was received during the progress of the j^roces- sion up this fashionable thoroughfare. First, the city's arch, a glittering bower of flowers and flags, was passed ; then the magnificent archway, stretching from house to house, and far outshining the former in beauty and massive- ness, built by Mr. Wanamaker. Upon this archway were 500 ladies. Far as the perspective effect permitted the eye to see, up the street was a fluttering forest of flags and streamers. The route led down through Thirteenth Street for a few squares, so that the column could be brought to pass before the Union League Club's building, on the cor- ner of Broad and Sansorn Streets. Opposite that point a reviewing stand was erected for the General's occupancy. 474 LIFE OF GE:\EUAL (UlANT. In the evening the city was brilliantly illuminated, and Independence Hall, by the aid of calcium lights, shone forth with a splendor never before witnessed. Private dwellings were lighted from the first stories to the roofs, and the hotels were illuminated by calcium lights. A din- ner and reception to General and Mrs. Grant were held at the house of Mr. George W. Childs. The following persons sat down to the dinner : General and Mrs. U. S. Grant, Mr. Hamilton Fish, Miss Stanley, Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Drexel, Mr. and Mrs. J. AV. Paul, Mr. and Mrs. A. E. Borie, General and Mrs. Sheridan, Mr. and Mrs. George Augustus Sala, Hon. and Mrs. J. Donald Cameron, Dr. and Mrs. J. M. DaCosta, Mr. J. S. Morgan (of London), Mr. EdAvards Pierrepont, Mr. George 8. Boui- well, Mr. John Welsh, Mr. George M. Kobeson, and Mr. U. S. Grant, Jr. Many other honors were showered upon the city's guest by private and public bands. The Grand Army, the school-children, the leading citizens — all, in short, showed their most brotherly love to him whom Philadelphia and all the world delighted to honor. i 1 CHAPTER XXXII. A. SOUTHERN TOUR — START FROM WASHINGTON — THE PARTY COLUMBIA SAVANNAH FLORIDA CUBA — HAVANA SAN DIEGO LOS BANCS A NATIVE BALL — CUBAN SLAVES — MATANZAS THE CARNIVAL — BULL-FIGllTING PROGRESSO VERA CRUZ CITY OF MEXICO — PRESI- DENT DIAZ — MEXICAN RAILROAD SCHEMES — SAN ANTONIO — CHERUBUSCO — HOME AGAIN. General Grant's famous '' Tour Around the World " was completed with his return to Philadelphia in the fall of 1879, from which city he had started two 3'ears before on that memorable journey. After having received and greatly enjoyed th« congratulations of his countrymen upon his safe return, certain business reasons presented themselves which rendered such a step necessary, and he ^t once resolved to leave his home again for the purpose of visiting various points of interest in southern United States, the West Indies, Mexico and Central America, and perfecting certain business schemes in those sections. Arrangements were quickly made, for with the General to decide has always been to do, and soon he and a little •company of select and appreciative friends were ready for the departure. Washington, which for eight years had been the home of General Grant while he was President, was the rendez- vous and starting point for this second journey into foreign lands. Christmas was spent at home, and on the 30th •of December, 1879, General Grant and his happy party (•475) 476 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. left Washington for Richmond in Colonel Thuiiins Scott's private car '" President." The party consisted of the ex- President and wife, General and Mrs. Sheridan, Colonel and Mrs. Grant, Miss Kitty Felt, of Galena, 111., and Byron Andrews, correspondent of the Chicago Inter-Oceun. INTERIOR OF THE PALACE CAR " PRESIDENT. At half past five p. m. the train moved out of the depot. Owing to the lateness of the hour of the departure from Washington, only small crowds, mostly colored, were at the various places along the route to greet the distin- guished traveller. TRAVELS IX- THE TROPICS. 477 Kichmond was reached at 10,15 that eveniiiii, and the special car in which the travellers had taken pa^;.sage was immediately switched off and taken across the river to the Richmond and Danville Railroad, where the ti-ucks were changed, and the party proceeded on their journey. The ex-President entered the State of South Carolina, via Charlotte, N. C, at twelve o'clock on the following day, and was the first ex-President who had visited the upper section of this State since Washington passed through in his private carriage in the year 1707, at Chester, sixty-five miles above Columbia. There was a large gathering of whites and blacks, who assembled to give him a welcome hurrah as the train entered the depot. Judge T. J. Mackey, being en route to his court in Columbia, boarded the train, and, being cordially recognized by the ex-President, introduced him to a number of citizens, who warmly welcomed him, without regard to party. In a military aspect his character has a warm place in the hearts of thousands of Confederate soldiers, who, though bitterly hostile to his party, remem- ber him gratefully as the magnanimous victor at Appo- mattox. While en route to Columbia the ex-President expressed his admiration of the splendid climate and ag- ricultural and manufacturing resources of the State, and the attractions that it offers to Northern capitalists, stating that here the great water powers may be utilized for twelve months in the year, while in the North such motors can only be used for seven or eight months. When near Columbia, the ex-President, observing a tall chimney, black with the fire of internecine war, remarked to General Sheridan and Judge Mackey, '' There is one of Sherman's monuments." To which Judge Mackey re- plied : " You, General, did not permit your line of march 478 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. to be marked by any such ghostly columns of victory." " No," said the ex-President, " there were several hundred dwelling-houses belonging to Confederates within my lines around Richmond, and they were undisturbed, and I presume that they are there yet. There was but one house burned near Richmond, and that was against orders." General Grant and party reached Augusta, Ga., that evening, and were received by a large crowd at the depot, notwithstanding rumors that they would not reach the city that night. They were escorted to their hotel by President Wilson, of the Port Royal Railroad Company, and the Mayor and Council men of the city. A reception was held which continued until a late hour. On the day following the arrival of General Grant and his party, they left Augusta for Beaufort and Savannah. The day was beautiful, and the visitors were waited upon by the Mayor and Councilmen, after which they were driven to the Union Depot, escorted by a band of music and colored military in procession, celebrating the emancipation proclamation. Savannah was reached at 10 p. m., and waiting were the Mayor, the Board of Aldermen and the Collector of the Port. There was no demonstration as the General left the carriage and ascended the hotel steps, with the ex- ception of three cheers given by the colored military. On the following morning, January 2d, the ex-President held a reception at the City Exchange. A number of old West Pointers, citizens and colored people, called. The cit}^ authorities gave the party an excursion down the river to a point below Fort Jackson, so that the visitors were enabled to get a good view of the city and its surroundings. Savannah is the largest and most important city in the PULASKI MONUMENT, SAVANNAH. •ITi) 480 LIFE OF GE^^EEAL GKAXT. State of Georgia. It is situated on the southern side of the Savannah river, some eighteen miles from its mouth. Its streets run nearly in a north and soiithj east and west direction, crossing one another at right angles. Their width is irregular, and they are generally shaded with trees. At every alternate corner is a public square, which is beautifully adorned with shade trees. These squares or plazas, which are circular in form, are laid out in walks, and being well ornamented add greatly to the at- tractions and healthfulness of the city. Its beautiful streets and squares have gained for Savannah the name of " The Forest City of the South." In Johnson's Square stands a handsome monument erected to the memory of Generals Greene and Pulaski. It is of pure white marble, and stands on the spot where the latter fell in the attack made upon the city by the American army in 1779. The monument cost $22,000 in gold. In the afternoon the party were taken to Bonaventure Thunderbolt. In the evening the ex-President, with General Sheridan and Fred Grant, dined at the residence of General H. R. Jackson, and met Generals McLaws, Wayne, Lawton and other former Confederate officers. At night the Aldermen gave a serenade at the Screven House. The ex-President responded briefly, acknowl- edging the compliment, and regretting his short stay in Savannah. On the following day the representatives of the various industries of the city called upon the General, in company with the Mayor and Collector of the Port. In the after- noon the party left the city, having taken passage on board the '' City of Bridgeton " for Florida, the land of genial temperature, the home of the orange tree, and the popular refuge of northern invalids and aristocrats. TRAVELS IX THE TROPICS. 481 At eleven o'clock on the morning of January 4tli. after a delightful trip, the steamer reached Fern and in a, Florida. This place is located on the northern part of Amelia Is- land, in the extreme northeastern part of the State. From here the party proceeded to Jacksonville, where, as everywhere else, the reception was cordial and enthu- siastic. From Jacksonville, General Grant and his friends made an excursion up the St. John's and Ocklawaha rivers, and thence back to Tocoi and on to St. Augustine. At the departure from Jacksonville on the morning of the 8th inst., the same ceremony was, observed that had marked the General's arrival, and the steamer '' Kelsey " left the wharf amid salvos of artillery and strains of patriotic music. General Grant stood bowing in response to the cheers and farewells till the sound of the voices died away in the distance. The party on the journey from Jacksonville was the same with which General Grant set out from Washington, with the addition of Mr. Joseph Seligman, the New York banker, his wife and his son, Mr. George Seligman. The first stop was made at Orange Park, a new town, started three years ago. Across the river, at Mandarin, is the residence of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. There was a large crowd gath- ered here to welcome the General, and long before the pier was reached there was a constant booming of cannon in honor of the event. Mr. Benedict, of Orange Park, had spread out on tables under great live oak trees a lit- tle agricultural exhibition of the products of the planta- tion. There were fine Indian corn, long sea island cotton, oranges, shattucks, lemons, strawberries and vegetables in profusion. Another landing was made a few nnles further up, at Green Cove. Palatka was reached at sun- set, and there the travellers found a brief rest. 482 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Hurrying through the sights of this section, Tocoi was reached, where a committee of citizens of St. Augustine met General Grant, and acted as an escort to the distin- guished guests the rest of their way to that city of vener- able renown. After thoroughly, but somewhat hurriedly, seeing this quaint old town, being welcomed and given a reception and ball, the General and his party, on January 19th, re- turned to Jacksonville, and on the following day started for Cedar Keys. Here he embarked in the "Admiral," and after a stop at Key West for a day, sailed for Havana. The trip was uneventful, and at ten o'clock on the morning of the 22d of January, the passengers on board the ''Admiral " could distinguish Morro Castle, with its gray bastions and towers, guarding the entrance to the harbor of Havana. The city stands upon a small bay which makes up from the Gulf of Mexi- co. Its harbor, which at its widest part does not exceed a mile and a half in width, is one of the finest in the world, being deep enough for vessels of the largest class, and large enough to accommodate a thousand ships of war, and so safe that vessels ride securely without cable or anchor. The entrance is by a channel half a mile in length, so narrow as to admit the passing of but a single vessel EN ROUTE TO SAN DIEGO TRAVELS IN THE TROPICS. 483 at a time, and fortified throughout the whole distance with military works and artillery. As the "Admiral " neared the city, steam launches were seen standing out from the harbor. They proved to contain Americans who had come off to salute the travellers, but they did not board the steamer, and it soon became evident that everything was to be done with stately leisure and in due form. The wharves were cov- ered with a curious crowd, but there was no noisy enthu- siasm, such as an American throng always manifests. In about ten minutes a pompous fellow in epaulets and plumes was rowed alongside, and, after shaking hands with General Grant and others, withdrew. This was the officer of the flagship, Seiior D. Ismael Warleteta. A few minutes passed again, and then a very grand party came up the side out of a steam launch. This was the Civil Governor of the province, Seiior Cuesta, Colonel Cerero, Chief Engineer, and other gentlemen of various ranks and order. The Governor announced that Captain-Gen- eral Blanco was absent, but had prepared for the use of General Grant quarters at his palace. The American Consul, Mr. Hall, also came and was warmly greeted by General Grant. The visitors were taken ashore in the launch, and carriages were in waiting on the wharf A guard of honor was in front of the entrance to the palace, flanking the driveway, and extending in diverging lines out into the street. At the foot of the stairs stood Gen- eral Collejos and the Alcalde Municipal of the city, to re- ceive the visitors, who were escorted to magnificent quarters in the north wing of the palace. They passed through the parlors, where General Grant tarried a moment to look at the portraits of Martinez Campos, Jovellar, and others. Then they were informed that a 484 LIFE OF GEXERAL GRAXT. lunch was ready to be served. The afternoon was spent in a drive about the city. Next day a grand official ban- quet was p;iven in honor of General Grant at the palace, beginning at half past six o'clock. About eighty persons were present, including General Callejas, the Vice-Gover- nor-General, the intendants of the treasury and army, Gen- eral Arias, Governor of the Province of Havana, members of the municipality, the Bishop of Havana, and other divS- tinguished persons. Those of the guests who were married were accompanied by their ladies. The ex-President occupied the centre of the table, having on his right the wife of General Callejas, and on his left Mr. Mendoza, the Mayor of Havana. Opposite to the ex-President sat General Callejas. General Sheridan was in uniform. The ladies were plainly but elegantly attired. The dining-hall and table were profusely and tastefully orna- mented. Music was furnished by the Marine Band, stationed in the court-yard of the Palace, and the band of the Engineer Corps, outside, on the square, playing alternately. The Palace was appropriately illuminated. No speeches were made, but cordiality reigned and the visitors expressed much satisfaction. The banquet was concluded at nine o'clock. Afterward the party assisted at a performance at the Tacon theatre, where the Spanish zarzuela (comic opera) of the " Barbero de Lava-pies," and the national Spanish dance were performed. The portraits of the King and Queen of Spain were suspended in front of the stage curtain. " Havana is a city embracing all the Moorish and Co- rinthian peculiarities of construction found in Spain and Mexico, while in the habits of life and general spirit of its inhabitants it indulges in all the characteristic aban- don of Paris. " Let me sketch the outline of a day as ordinarily TEAVELS IN THE TKOPICS 4ft5 spent by the visitor. Rise at six, Cal'e con leche and a hard biscuit with an orange or so before leaving the room. The sunrise hour is delicious. The volunteers are already assembling upon the prado in front of the hotel. Tiiey are inspected by battalions every morning. By seven o'clock the street swarms with them ; the band gives us strange and martial Spanish airs ; then they all march away 'to come again another day.' There are plenty of novel features of life to attract the attention until break- fast time, which is, say 1 0.30 A. m. Your waiter is a leisurely tyrant. He brings endless courses of meats and strange compounds of flesh and vegetables, and lastly, your cofiee and fruits. Claret is served in abundance. " From breakfast until about four P. M. you are engaged much in the same way as the boy who kept a diary and wrote every day that he 'didn't do nothin' much.' Choose, then, if you will take a coach to the Cerro, the palatial suburb, or continue in the foregoing pleasing oc- cupation. Dinner is partaken between six and eight p. M. New arrivals are discussed and plans laid for the evening. " Now Havana is seen at its best. The super-heated pavements of the day are bathed in the cool light of the moon. Every cafe is thronged; the parks are festive with laughter and music. All are as eager as children loosed from school. The theatres are packed. A reflex of the Jardin Mabile, a Chinese theatre and an American circus all claim and get their share of trade. Bull fights are a semi-occasional. My chief desire thus fiir has been to see the poor but gamey old bull gore a few of the mis- erable Dagos, who convert the unhappy beast into an an- imated pin-cushion with their spangled darts. "It may interest some of the 'boys' who glean the 486 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. daily modicum of news items for the papers at home to iiear somewiiat of the mode in which Cuban journals are conducted. The two leading papers are JBl Trlum/o and the Diario de la Marina. There are several other sheets of lesser weight, some being specialists. The publication office is usually in some arched building as picturesque as the interior of a morgue. The editorial rooms are above, and will contrast favorably with those of our metropolitan papers. The sheets are struck off direct from the type upon a flat bed-press one side at a time. The two papers named are morning sheets, but have a post-meridian edition also. "Reporters are neither numerous, ubiquitous or cheek}^ EnterjDrise and sensation have no habitation witli them. I stood with one (of a morning sheet) the other night upon the curb while a very unusually destructive fire illuminated the whole city. The lights upon the watch- towers gleamed redly, and heavy steamers dragged noisily along. I said : ' Well, I suppose you will be busy now getting the points?'' 'Oh, no,' was the reply, ' we will learn all about it from the police to-morrow.' The ' facts ' were set forth in the second issue thereafter. The guild, however, is just the same here as in other parts of the world, and stray Bohemians are welcomed in the traditional style." On the morning of the 28th General Grant and his party left Havana for San Diego Los Banos, which is cele- brated for its thermal baths. Senor Manuel F. Bramodis, General Manager of the Western Railroad, Dr. Daniel M. Burgess, an officer of the United States Sanitary Com- mission, Mr. R. 0. Williams, United States Vice-Consiil- General, Senor Julio Durege, proprietor of the baths, and Colonel Cuesta were added to the party. 488 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The travellers arrived at Paso Real, a station on the road about 100 miles west of Havana, at two o'clock, having made a short stop at San Crestobal, the scene of greatest destruction by the recent earthquake. After a lunch the journey was resumed in volantes. This volante must be seen to be appreciated. It is in appearance like a balloon on wheels, in its proclivity to upset like an Irish jaunting car, and in its general convenience and the ease with which the traveller rides in its capacious inte- rior like a phaeton. The procession of volantes was a quarter of a mile long. One of them was painted red, and in this were placed General and Mrs. Grant. Aside from the color, all seemed to be the same, and of equally doubtful character and wonderful construction. There was a great deal of loud talking, good-natured and other- wise, of cracking of whips, and backing and twisting of unruly mules and horses and unwieldy vehicles. Finally they set off at a merry pace. The road from Paso Real to San Diego has probably never been repaired since the original settlers took possession of the island. As long as it led across the level plain, all was well. Soon a succes- sion of hills was reached, and the fun began. The rock- ing volantes rolled and swung until the occupants had to hold on for their lives. It made no difference to the drivers. They had only one object in view — to reach San Diego — and did not seem to care how the travellers endured the journey. So they fell over ditches, washed out during the rainy season, and up hills and down to San Diego of the Oastes. The mayor of the town showed good taste in giving General Grant an unusual treat. He divined rightly that a ball in the style of the rustics would be interesting. He accordingly sent out invitations to the Cuban planters of 490 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the district to a " boile " in honor of the distinguished guests. At half-past eight o'clock the visitors repuii-ed to the scene of festivities. The ball-room was a large apart- ment on the ground floor. The creole belles sat in chairs in a row along one side, and the cavaliers were similarly ranged on the opposite side of the room. The band was composed of three negroes playing a guitar, a mandolia and a guira. The last was a long gourd hollowed out and very dry. Upon the convex side were a succession of parallel grooves, over which the musician scraped another piece of gourd shell, making a sharp rasping accompaniment to the stringed instruments. The prin- cipal dance was much like the first movement of an Irish jig^ and went on indefinitely without much change, the dancers keeping up a perpetual shuffle back and forth, toward and away from each other until they or the musicians tired of the step, when a quick kind of walse took its place. The attire of these olive-skinned dam- sels was in nowise remarkable. It consisted of a white or figured linen dress, trimmed with pink or blue ribbons. But the costume of the Guajiro (pronounced Washero), as the rustic is called in Cuba, was peculiar. All of them wore palm-leaf hats with broad brims, which were re- moved from the head only when raised for an instant when a partner w^as asked for the dance. The upper garment looked like a shirt of white or figured cotton or linen^ that floated and fluttered half way to the knees. The trousers were gray linen. A bright-colored cotton handkerchief was folded and passed over the right shoulder, the ends being brought together and tied closely under the left arm. At the side hung the wachita, held by both hands behind the back when it happened to be m the way of the dancer. The heel of each caballero TRAVELS IN THE TROPICS. }:.l was armed with a long spur. General Grant and his fellow-travellers watched the dance for an hour and returned to the hotel; but the '-Ijoile" lasted until morning. From San Diego Los Banos General (J rant and part\- journeyed to Consolacion del Sur, one of the chief towns in the Province of Pinos del Rio, lying west of Havana. It may be explained that this is one of the six provinces into which the island was divided after the peace of Mar- tinez Campos. The road to this place from San Diego takes the traveller into a new land. It is not so tropical as the rest of Cuba, although the palm tree in its many varieties abounds. The pine is also found in extensive groves, and from this the province takes its name. The red soil of the sugar country changes here to a light straw color or ashy hue, very sandy and not so rich as the other in vecretable arowths. There is an undulating plateau of this kind of land sloping from the mountain chain to the Caribbean sea, and extending from the vicin- ity of Paso Pteal to the western extremity of the island, which produces the finest tobacco in the world. The railroad has not yet penetrated the heart of this region, so the journey to Consolacion was by volantes and a coach. This coach was the only drawback to the trip, its frequent disasters causing the procession to halt so frequently that the trip was thereby considerably pro- tracted. At one of these plantations the slaves were called up for examination. Such a woe-begone company was never seen. The women were of small stature, poorly clad, and without the first ray of intelligence beaming in their faces. The children were likewise exhibited. The i^overnor took a little fellow playfully by the ear and 492 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. said : " You are the bad boy that rides the sheep." He repUed, " No, sir ; I stay with the pigs," and he looked as though he spoke the truth. All the slaves, 130 in number, were then summoned together, and the Governor made them a brief address, in which he told them their "a leading occupation." lot was a good one, and to be envied, and more of such mockery. Every black face in front of him seemed to give the lie to his words. By the acknowledgements of all who knew, these people knew nothing of true domestic life. TEAVELS IN THE TROPICS. 498 General Grant left Havana for Matan/as on the after- noon of the 5th, accompanied by Colonels Cerero and Cuesta and several other officers of the Government, be- side members of his own party. The route taken was the Bay Railroad, Matanzas being sixty-two miles dis- tant, through a diversified country of rough hills and broad, flat valleys. This is one of the best sugar regions of Cuba, and some persons believe that Matanzas will yet be the chief port of the island on this account, and be- cause the bay is broader than that of Havana. Upon arriving at the depot, General Grant was met by the Alcalde, accompanied by the adjutant representing the Governor of the Province and members of the coun- cil, and a speech of welcome was made. When the Gen- eral had been formally offered the hospitalities of the city„ the party were shown to carriages and driven to the palace. Here the Governor of the Province received General Grant in the most cordial manner at the foot of the staircase, and showed him and his companions to the parlors. After the presentation at the Palace the travellers were driven to the hill to the northwest of the city, over- looking one of the most celebrated valleys in the world, that of the Yumuri. The visitors saw a great bowl where once a vast lake lay, now green with the grass and cane of the plantations that are spread over its bottom. It dips down several hundred feet at once at this ])onit, and stretches away for miles to the range of hills on the other side. Through the centre wind two small streams, but there is no valley along their banks to break the symmetry of the smooth bowl. They are oidy like ditches put in the surface, and they thread their way down to the ravine which opens into the bay. 494 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. On Saturday, February 7th, the final social entertain- ment in honor of General Grant was given at the Arsenal. The carnival began on Sunday, the 8th, and closed on the evening of the 10th. On the following Sunday the same scenes were re-enacted, with greater and more desperate gayety. A special feature of the season was a brutal bull-fight. On the previous day the newspapers announced that the great Mexican matador had at last arrived, together with the lasso-throwers, etc., and that they would positively appear in the arena at Regla, where eight bulls would be killed. Regla is the Brooklyn of Havana, and a ferry crosses the bay every few min- utes. In order to finish in time for the procession the fight began at two o'clock, instead of four as usual. Sev- eral thousand people attended, and the scenes of the pre- vious Sunday were re-enacted, except that they were more hideous in brutality. The Mexicans were very old men for such business. Two of tliem must have been over fifty, yet they were as wiry as boys and very strong, though slight in build. Two of the Mexicans before the fight were mounted upon trained horses, brought wath them from their own country. Their lariats were caught around the horn of their saddles. In a little cup- board-like affair was a youth busily cutting tissue paper into rosettes to trim the darts that are thrust into the bull's neck. The horsemen were putting on heavy leather overalls to protect their legs from the horns of the bull, and were tightening the saddle-girths. On the other side of the entrance to the arena w^ere the bull-pens, where a dozen fat and sleepy fellows lay chewing their cuds. The fight was the same as on all occasions, except that there was less bungling and more dextrous stabbing and carving of the victims. Most of the bulls had sharp \ TRAVELS IN THE TROPICS. 495 horns, and gored the poor jaded horses till the arena was covered with pools of blood. Only one of the bulls was killed outright by the sword of the matador; the rest being stabbed repeatedly till they quietly laid down from loss of blood, when a blow at the base of the skull with a dagger killed them instantly. The performances of these men were greeted continually with such applause as a New York audience bestows upon a favorite prima donna. The lassoing was scarcely less brutal than the rest. A rope would be thrown over the animal's horns or around his neck, and another around a foot. Tlu-n the ropes were given a turn about the horns of the saddle, and the riders would dash at a gallop in opposite direc- tions. Of course the bull was thrown, and he usually gave up and could scarcely be made to rise. When tortured and goaded the animal w^ould fight to the last, but when once he felt himself securely roped he lost heart. One or two of them had to be released to save them from dying at once from sheer vexation. The procession started at the Punta, opposite Morro Castle, proceeded along the Prado, in the new part of the town, through the Campo Marte, over the Paseo Tacon to the Castle on the hill at the outskirts of the city, and back a^ain, a distance of six miles. There was no reo-ular formation. Each vehicle fell in where it hap- pened. The only semblance of order was that the teams in tandem, with four or six-in-hand, were placed in single file in the centre. There were about 2,500 vehicles, and the parade lasted from 4.30 to 7 o'clock. The day's ceremonies concluded with the ball at the Tacon theatre. Most of those in the procession were not masked, but siuiply drove out, as on any other occasion, in the best style they could command. The carriages of the Captain- 496 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. General, in which General Grant and the members of his party rode, were extremely elegant. While the great majority of the carriages were rather shabby, the number of fine imported horses was surprising. There was noth- ing imposing about the costumes. Groups of maskers rode in express-wagons, trimmed for the occasion with the Spanish flag. A favorite device was to cover the wagon with drooping palm branches and then label it, " Moses in the bulrushes." All were very decorous, and most of the maskers sat in their places as still as scare- crows in a corn-field. After a satisfactory visit to Cuba, and three weeks spent in observation of its people and institutions, General Grant sailed for Mexico, February loth, by the "City of Alexandria." This steamship came with a large passenger list, and after General Grant's party em- barked at Havana the cabin was nearly full. Mr. John Alexandre was aboard, and left nothing undone to insure the comfort and enjoyment of all. Many old travellers said they had never before experienced so agreeable a voyage across this treacherous Gulf at this uncertain sea- son of the year. The second morning found the steamer anchored in the Gulf of Progresso. Progresso, the new port of the prov- ince by the same name, is only about seven years old and succeeds Sisal as the shipping point for hemp, which is the leading and almost exclusive product of the country. All kinds of tropical fruits are grown, but they are des- tined only for local consumption. The houses are one story and roofs of thatch. The people are of Toltec origin, a race boasting a greater anticpiity than the Az- tecs. They dress chiefly in thin light-colored goods, and betray the universal tropical weakness for ornament. 498 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The travellers wished to go ashore, but it was impo& sible. The wind could not be relied upon, and the lighters could not come out as long as the wind blew. At three o'clock in the afternoon a sail boat appeared under the bow. She brought a committee of citizensiii" from Merida, the capital of Yucatan, who had been sent' to the coast the day before to escort General Grant to the city. They came simply to pay their respects, and I to explain what they would have done had the wind been favorable. It had been the intention to take the General up to Merida (twenty-six miles) and back that afternoon, a banquet and a reception being also on the programme. Later in the day the lighter came off with a few more passengers for Vera Cruz, and at dark the " City of Alexandria " steamed gayly away on her course for Campeche. The city of Merida boasts of a population of from 40,000 to 50,000 people. The city was founded in 1542, on the site of a city previously ruined by the Spaniards, and is regularly laid out and well built of stone. It pos- sesses several good squares, the principal and most central one containing the Cathedral, a rich edifice of the 16th century, the Bishop's residence, and the Government House. Of its three convents, two are now in ruins ; a remaining portion of the Jesuit's Convent is now occupied by the State Legislature. The manufactures and trade are inconsiderable. On the following morning the steamer lay to again, and another committee came out with a complimentary address to General Grant. The latter conversed for some time with the gentlemen, asking questions as to the productions of the country, after which he returned quietly to the perusal of his book, and they retired. TRAVELS IN THE TROPICS. 499 At a very early hour on the following morning all the travellers were on deck to get a first look at Vera Cruz and the famous peak of Orizaba. A norther was predicted,which should keep them on board any number of days, lor Vera Cruz has no harbor to speak of; but the sea was as un- ruffled as the face of a Madonna. Orizaba, seventy miles mland, stood up against the western sky, with its cap of eternal snow, seemingly less than a day's walk distant. The walled "City of the True Cross" stretched along the shore, compactly set within its gates. That famous fort- ress. San Juan de Ulua, which Humboldt says cost $50,- 000,000, seemed a part of the town. As they looked, a cannon and another and another boomed a welcome across to them. Presently a trim man-of-war, dipping its tri-color of red, white and green, came up and lay to on the port side of the " City of Alexandria." A boat was lowered, and ex-Secretary Romero and wife (an American lady), General Mejia and several naval officers stepped on board the "Alexandria." General Grant and General Mejia greeted each other as old friends, the latter having rep- resented his government in Washington during the ex- President's administration. After a few moments' con- versation, ex-Secretary Romero, who with General Mejia had been sent by the Mexican President to receive Gen- eral Grant, read a brief address of welcome. General Grant thanked the commander in a few words, and all sat down to coffee together. At eight o'clock two barges of the Naval Commandant came alongside, and the General and his party were taken ashore. A reception was held at the United States Consulate under the direction of Dr. Trowbridge, the Consul. Gene- ral Teran on behalf of the citizens welcomed General Grant 500 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. most cordially, closing his address by saying, "Vera Cruz is proud to be the first Mexican city which welcomes such a distinguished guest, such a great soldier and patriot." General Grant said in reply : "General Teran — I am very glad to come to Mexico, and to land at Vera Cruz. It has long been a wish of mine to come to this country, and I am pleased to find it, at the moment of my arrival, at peace with all the world. I hope that the relations between the United States and Mexico will grow closer every day. The development of this country will be a great advantage to the United States. Many Americans are watching with interest your progress and manifesting a lively satisfaction in it. No one can be more gratified than myself at your im- provement. At ten o'clock on the 21st, the party started for the Mexican capital, which was reached in the evening of the same day. The station and surrounding grounds were brilliantly illuminated. The band of the Zapadores was in attendance ; also a commission appointed by the gov- ernment, one by the municipalit}^, and another by the American residents, were present. The concourse of citizens was immense, numbering over ten thousand, and the main street leading from the station was blocked with coaches for a mile in length. The streets along the line to the Casa de Mineria were lined with double files of mounted troops, and the Rural Guards, eight hundred strong, each bearing a torch, through which the ex-Presi- dent passed. The effect was most brilliant, especially when the Guards closed in by platoons and galloped be- hind the visitors. At the station the committee of the government met the ex-President. The chairman ex- TKAVELS IN THE TROPICS 601 tended to him the welcome of the government, and then presented the committee of the municipaUty, who ten- dered him the hospitalities of the capital. Attended by the committees the ex-President and party then proceeded to the Mineria, the building prepared for them during their stay in the city. Upon arrival at the Mineria, the band of the Zapadores played the national hymn. As the military marched by the house the ex-President went on the balcony, when he was greeted by cheers from the multitude. While the party were in Florida, it was rumored that the old palace at Chapultepec was being refitted for the occupancy of the travellers during their sojourn in the Mexican capital. This seems to have had no foun- dation in fact. To have banished the Americans to this lovely but lonely rock would have been folly indeed. A drive of three miles through clouds of dust would have discouraged any frequency of visitation to the city, and the impressions of Mexico naturally resulting would have consisted of broad perspectives rather than of close de- tails. The Mexicans very sensibly devoted one wing of the School of Mines (hi Minered), a vacant but imposing building, centrally situated, to the purpose. It was in the main court of this structure that the International Exhibition was held last year, and which was made the Mecca of about one hundred and twenty pilgrims from Chicago. Upon Monday, at 11 A. M., Generals Grant and Sheridan, with Colonel Fred Grant and their respective ladies, repaired to the national palace for the purpose of an official call upon President Diaz. They were received in a saloon of sumptuous fittings, guarded by a large and brilliant retinue of attaches. After a few words of formal 502 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. welcome, a general conversation ensued, Senor Romero acting as interpreter. Tiie Mexican Executive appears to be a man rather of deeds than words, and such is his reputation. He has won his seat by years of hard fighting. In the evening of the same day the ex-President dined with Minister Foster. Assisting were President Diaz, several members of the Cabinet, and other distinguished persons. After the dinner was over the company re- paired to the drawing-room, where the ex-President received a large concourse of callers who retired and were continually succeeded by others till after midnight. The callers numbered nearly a thousand persons. On the 29th of February General Grant and his party, attended by commissioners appointed by the govern- ment of the city, visited the different departments in the National Palace. On the next day a grand review took place in honor of the ex-President. Six coaches from the Presidential residence conveyed President Diaz and General Pacheco, Secretary of War, ex-President Grant, General Sheridan, Seilors Matias Romero and Ygnatio Marescal, Colonel Frederick Grant and other officers, to the place of review. After the review, the bod}^ of the army marched through the principal streets, falling into a column of honor in front of the National Palace, on the balconies of w^hich were President Diaz and General Grant, and others. General Carrillo com- manded the troops. In the evening the party dined with President Diaz, the dinner being followed by a grand concert and illumi- nation on the Plaza. One of the chief points of interest, yet difficult for the traveller to reach in Mexico, is Pachuca and the Regla, TRAVELS IN THE TROPICS. 503 whither General Grant and his party went on March 3d. He visited the mines at Pachuca, Ometusco, the village of Zem Joala, Choluslo, and other places. He was much interested in the remains and ruins of Aztec civilization, which generally invite the traveller to linger in the most picturesque dalliance. Some bones of men, earthenware used in domestic labors, and warlike arms of the Aztecs were found. After rambling among the quaint old Mexican towns, General Grant and his party returned to the City of Mexico. The last days of General Grant's stay in this tiity were very busy ones. He had frequent talks with leading men from all parts of the Republic, at their solici- tation, about the best means of developing the waste places of Mexico. The General thinks that railroads alone will solve the problem. Several prominent Mexicans, after talking with him, decided to form a syndicate to soHcit the necessary grants from the Mexican Congress, and then to transfer the enterprise for execution to American -capitalists. Afterward some important correspondence passed between them and General Grant, in which the entire subject was discussed. In closing the correspond- ence, General Grant made use of the following lan- iguage: " I wish your project every success. Anything I can •do to advance it I will do. There is no doubt in my mind but that the great Northern RepubHc, now pressing upon your borders so closely, will find it to their interest to penetrate this vast and rich empire, if they can do so on fair terms, and with assurance of protection. That these conditions can and will be secured by Mexico, I fully believe. I will lend the project my aid in every way possible, both as an American citizen, wishing the greatest good to my own country, and as a friend to 32 .504 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Mexico, desiring her advancement in wealth and pros- perity, and all good. Very truly, your obedient servant, •^ U. S. Grant." At San Antonio they stopped for a short time, and as usual General Grant had a reminiscence of the place. "Here," he said, "I lay with my regiment waiting for the battle of Contreras to be fought. We threatened the enemy who lay at Cherubusco, so that he could not rein- force the army that was to be attacked. When at length Contreras was won and we moved upon Cherubusco, we found that the enemy was not willing to make much of a fight, but soon withdrew. Cherubusco was near by in plain view, with its towers and gray roofs rising among the poplars that line the streets. Shortly after this the party departed for Vera Cruz, from which place passage had some time 23reviously been engaged for the United States in the steamer "' City of Mexico." For a fortnight and more the weather in the Gulf and throughout the West Indies had been uncertain, so that the vessel encountered a very severe storm, but made Galveston Harbor on March 2.3d. A reception was fol- lowed by a trip to San Antonio and Houston; then New Orleans was reached. I CHAPTER XXXIII. GRANT SETTLES IN NEW YORK HE ENTERS THE MAZES OF BUSINESS THE FIRM OF GRANT & WARD HOW THE GEN- ERAL WAS DRAWN INTO THE WHIRLPOOL OF DISASTER AN OVERWHELMING TROUBLE VANDERBILT's GENEROSITY THE ASTOUNDING WONDERS OF WARD's RASCALITY A TALE OF TURBULENT TROUBLE. Following the career of our hero, we reach now iiis days of sorrow and shadow. The bright picture of his triumphal progress round the world draws to its glittering close amid the beams of coming twilight. The defeat of his ambition amid the clamors of Chicago was but the preliminary of a world of business troubles, and then the final fatal illness. Galena could not be considered for a moment a place of pleasure for a man so well travelled, so widely known as General Grant. Many of his old-time friends had by this time removed to scenes of greater activity, and Grant determined to follow them. New York attracted him more than other cities of the Union, and two of his sons, who had already settled tliere in business, made his preference a fact. Thither tlie General removed and took up his residence in a mansion on Sixty-sixth street east of Fifth avenue, from which pleasant home he was removed to Mount McCregor, a sore-stricken and sorrowing man. It is not easy to detail very clearly the story of tlie ex- President's misfortunes in Wall street. Ferdinand Ward, (505) 5(16 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the execrable author of them all, is now behind prison bars. This adventurer — who was the actual head of the firm of Grant & Ward, of which Buck Grant was the <;en- eral partner, and General Grant the special partner — was a shrewd, shar[y Wall street operator who knew that if he could only obtain a name to conjure with, he could float himself to fortune. Unhappily he fell in with the Grant boys, and he saw his opportunity to utilize the name of the / W^ f ^^^gffli^l^J.^ GUAXT'S residence in new YORK. hero of Appomattox. The firm of Grant & Ward was put in operation in the autumn of 1880. Everything pros- pered until the spring of 1884, when the crash came and the world was suddenly startled to learn that General Grant was bankrupted. At first the current of popular opinion inclined to blame the General for having allowed himself to be brought to FINANCIAL TROUBLES. 5<)7 beggary by a swindler. But as the niontiis succeeding the crash rolled away, the sober second thought of the people was enabled to see that the General was simply the victim of misfortune, and a victim of misplaced confi- dence. He had, with the common American carelessness, trusted too easily, too readily to the silver-tongued Ward, to whom the whirlpools of speculation were a delight, the dangers of reckless investment a pleasure. The story of the old hero's connection with the firm of Grant & Ward is best told in the General's words taken from a deposition made March 27th, 1885, during the trial of James D. Fish, the swindling president of the Marine Bank. Grant said in answer to questions that he sup- posed he was a member of the firm of Grant & Ward, as the books showed him such, though up to the time of the failure he supposed that he was simply a special partner. His connection dated from about November 1st, 1880. He then paid in $50,000 and shortly after $50,000 more, though he did not recall the date. That was all he had paid in. On the 4th of May, 1884, General Grant supposed he was worth •* well on to a million." He could not recall whether he knew James D. Fish before the co-partnership or not. '' I had no suspicion of any rascality, and, therefore, there was nothing to confine my mind to any such dates." When asked through whose introduction he became acquainted with Fish, General Grant said : •' I suppose it was by my son and Mr. Ward. 1 sup- ' pose if you should go clear back that it was my son who got acquainted with Mr. Ferdinand Ward through Mr. Ward's brother, and that the acquaintance was led on to in that way. The man was supposed, so far as I ever knew, to be a reputable banker until after the fiiilure, and it was not astonishing that a person should uiake his ac- quaintance." 508 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. " General Grant said he had a dim recollection of re- ceiving a letter from Fish while living at Long Branch. It might have been the letter of July 6th, 1883. He did not know where the letter was. ' I suppose/ said he, ' Mr. Ward took very good pains that I should not have it. I don't suppose that I ever saw the one that was published.' " The General recalled answering the letter, and saying that he believed the matter the firm was engaged in was all right, or something like that. He had no recollection as to what became of the letter, and did not believe it was the one published. He had searched in vain for the letter. " '^ I have never been in the habit of preserving private letters, and if I was to try I suppose I should make a poor record. My business in life has been such that somebody else has always taken care of letters that had to be saved, and the only way that I have now of preserving a letter that I wish to preserve until I do something with it is to put it in my side coat pocket, or put it in the drawer where I write, and then when I want to look for a letter it is about the last one I find.' " The deponent identified a letter shown him as being in his own handwriting. It was dated July 6th, 1882, and addressed to Mr. Fish. It referred to a letter received from Mr. Fish the day before, but General Grant did not recall whether or not the letter referred to had been shown to him by Ferdinand Ward. Mr. Ward transacted all the business, and General Grant supposed that Ward brought the other letter to him, got the answer, and de- livered it to Mr. Fish, " General Grant volunteered the information that at the time he went into the firm he had a very small income, saved for him by his son during his trip around the FINANCIAL TROUBLES. 509 world. His son proposed to let him have a half interest in the firm, so that the General should have an income to live upon. Afterward an income was raised for him, and the firm generously, as he then thought, concluded to let him in as a half partner, and, later, as a whole partner — special, not general. ^ In answer to a question of Mr. Root, counsel for the Government, as to the time at which he was accustomed to reach his ofiice when staying at Long Branch in the summer of 1882, General Grant said he had forgotten the exact time of leaving Long Branch in the morning, but he usually reached the office about 10 A. m. "The deponent recalled no reference to Government contracts in Mr. Fish's letter, to which the letter just identified was an answer. ' I had told Mr. Ward, when it was mentioned, that there must never be any Govern- ment contracts there. There is nothing wrong in being engaged in Government contracts more than in anything else unless made wrong by the acts of the individual, but I had been President of the United States, and I did not think it was suitable for me to have my name connected with Government contracts, and I knew that there was no large profit in them, except by dishonest measures. There are some men wdio got Government contracts year in and year out, and whether they managed their affiiirs dishonestly or not, to make a profit, they are sometimes supposed to, and I did not think it was any place for me.' " Li answer to a further question, General Grant said that, had he found any reference to Government contracts in the letter, he would have stopped, but, as a matter of fact, he might never have seen that letter, as Ward might simply have given him a statement of its contents. " The deponent knew Ward to be a director of the 510 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Marine Bank, and to be there a great deal, but suspected nothing wrong. He knew of but one Government con- tract in which Ward professed to be interested, and in that case, Ward said that he had just bought 350,000 bushels of oats, and that there was a further large quan- tity to be purchased, all for delivery to a third party, who. had the contract. General Gi'ant saw nothino; wrono; in this, as the firm had not taken the Government contract. Afterward he began to fear. It was near the failure, and there were whispers that Grant & Ward had Government contracts. He questioned Ward, and the latter said that he was not going to do anything that would injure the General, or anything that the General requested him not to do. He denied that he had contracts anywhere. He intimated that his acquaintance with city officers enabled him to get municipal contracts, and General Grant told him he saw no great difference between city, and Govern- ment contracts. Ward then said that he never had a contract with either the city of New York or the Govern- ment of the United States. "Ward illustrated the nature of his contracts, by citing the case of a man having a contract for a section of rail- road connecting Pittsburgh with the Reading system. The contractor, being unable to obtain horses, supplies, and the like, came to Grant & Ward for money with which to- prosecute this contract. When General Grant had ob- jected to such a transaction as unsafe, Ward had replied that the firm kept the contract in its possession, and the- money was all paid into the firm's office. General Grant supposed Ward was more of a business man than he, and accepted the explanation. " Mr. Fish had never questioned him about Government contracts, and General Grant would have repudiated them had he done so. Fish did not consult with him about FINANCIAL TROUBLES. Grant & Ward's aftairs after July 5th, 1882. Some time in the Avinter of 1883, General Grant, Mr. Fish, Colonel Grant, Mr. Ward, James R. Smith, Mayor Edson, Cit} Comptroller J. Nelson Tappan, and Treasurer Spencer, of the railroad, were four days together in a special car, in Western Pennsylvania, but Mr. Fish did not speak of business, though they spoke of Ward, and agreed that he was a man of great energy and ability. Fish said, that he had never in his life before got anything so good. " When asked whether he had drawn from the firm the profits he was led to suppose had been made. General Grant said : ' No, I did not. 1 left them with the con- cern, and everything that I had beside, and I haven't got it out. I had some little items, but I don't know what amount, that were purchased, some of them for me, with the money of the firm, that were profits of the firm ; they never were purchased, but then they were supposed to be, and 1 was charged with the purchase of them.' '' He drew from the firm at the rate of $2,000 per month in 1883, and $3,000 per month in the early part of 1884, up to the failure. That was the limit of his drafts. " ' Everything that I had in the world went,' said Gen- eral Grant. ' Ward came up here on Sunday night before the failure, and asked me to go down with him to see Mr. Newcomb, to see if he couldn't get $150,000 from him ; that he had himself raised $230,000, and if he could raise $150,000 more, it would carry the Marine Bank through ; that we had $660,000 in the Marine Bank, be- sides $1,300,000 of securities in our vaults ; that we should be inconvenienced very much if we couldn't carr>- the bank through, and he said that the Marine Bank was all sound and solid, if it had time to collect in, or draw little of its time loans, and I went down there with m a .512 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. him, and Mr. Newcomb was not at home, and he asked me if I knew Wm. H. Vanderbilt well enough to ask him, and I, after some httle hesitation, said I did, and Mr. Vanderbilt loaned it to me without hesitation at all. He said at the time he gave it to me, that he was lending this to me, and that he had no recollection of ever hav- ing done such a thing before, but that he would do it for me. Well, that has taken all the remaining property that I had.' " Ward said nothing of the firm's indebtedness to the bank. He said the firm had seven hundred and odd thousand in the bank, and so the books of Grant & Ward showed. Mr. Fish had expressed no distrust of Ward in the spring of 1884. General Grant was sorry to say that he had not the slightest distrust of Ward the night before the failure, and his son, U. S. Grant, Jr., after the failure, said that Ward would come out all right. He had such friendship for Ward's brother William, that he did not believe Ferdinand could do a dishonest act. It took the General a day or two to realize that Ward had acted so. He had never heard of Mr. Fish's apprehension that Ward had run away a week before the failure. He under- stood from Ward, the Sunday before the failure, that the firm had $750,000 in cash in the bank. Ward was in the habit of making statements as to their business, but General Grant could recall no recent statements, except that Ward would show certain calculations, and name the profits figured up. General Grant looked at them later, and his recollection was that they showed the nature of the profits. He had none of those statements in his possession. He never read one of them until after the failure. They showed from month to month the profits of the firm." The next day Ward wrote to U. S. Grant, Jr., giving FINANCIAL TROUBLES. 513 an elaborate fictitious statement of the condition of the firm, and enumerating a list of securities amounting to $1,323,700. Then he went on : " We must get $500,000 on them, and have the clieck dated to-day. Now go to Mr. Vanderbilt and tell him just how we stand, and that if he will do this for us we will send him $800,000 or $900,000 of the securities in the morning, whichever he may select of them. . . . Go right at it, Buck, and remember that if it is not done it will be the end of our business career." It is needless to state that this remarkable suggestion was not complied with, as these " securities" existed only in the fertile brain of Ward. On Tuesday, May 6th, New York was startled by the announcement of the failure of the Marine Bank, and also of the firm of Grant & Ward. General Grant was completely overwhelmed by the collapse of the firm. But for several days the extent of the disaster was not known, and the realization of the gigantic proportions of the swindle came with a merciful slowness. Mr. Fish bore an unstained reputation for probity, and the officers of the Marine Bank refused to ■credit any of the terrible rumors with which the atmos- phere of Wall street was charged. The news of the fail- ures was coupled with an assurance that the embarrass- ment was only temporary. General Grant's first thought was for his individual liability to Mr. Vanderbilt for the $150,000 loan. The morning before the suspension, the General's son had gone to Mr. Vanderbilt and given him the check of Grant & Ward for $150,000. And now the General's feeling was one of deep thankfulness that, whatever losses he might be called upon to bear, this loan, which he had hesitated to ask, and which he regarded as in the highest 514 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. degree a debt of honor, had been repaid. Alas ! he did not then know that the check was worthless, and that the scoundrel who had prevailed upon him, by his plausible lies, to solicit the loan, knew the check to be valueless when he signed it. When this was revealed to the stricken hero, he staggered under the blow. But he hesitated not a moment as to the course to be pursued. This debt must be satisfied, even at the sacrifice of all his earthly possessions. His wife, who had faithfully stood by him in all the vicissitudes of his wonderful career, did not flinch on this occasion. Of course the property which stood in her name could have been preserved from legal process, but no advantage was taken of this fact. On the 9 th of May, before the full extent of the terrible calamity had been realized, the proper papers were executed, and the real estate and personal property of Ulysses S. Grant and Julia Dent Grant was transferred to William H. Vanderbilt. Nothing was withheld, all of the mementoes and presents even, every thing that had value was made over. Mr. Vanderbilt returned the deeds to General Grant immediately upon their receipt, refusing positively to ac- cept them. In the meantime, in order to protect the property from other creditors to whom General Grant was not bound in honor, the General begged Mr. Vanderbilt to institute legal proceedings to recover the amount of the loan. The General confessed judgment, and this judgment stood as a lien upon the property, thus prevent- ing its seizure by other creditors. The failure of Grant & Ward was a monstrous matter. When the failure was announced the liabilities were sup- posed to be $2,500,000, But investigation developed a most astounding state of affairs. Railroad bonds and other securities taken as collateral, and which were sup- FINANCIAL TROUBLES. 51.-, posed to be in the vaults of the firm, had entirely disap- peared, and it was ascertained that they had been nscd by Ward precisely as if they were his own property, and had been transferred to other parties as security for mon('\- borrowed by him, that is, in the language of Wall strei't. they had been " rehypothecated." After a thorough investigation the assignee of the Hrm stated that the liabilities reached the enormous sum of ^14,000,000, to meet which he found no assets whatever. Everything had been swallowed up by the reckless specu- lations and personal prodigality of Fish and Ward. Gen- eral Grant and his sons had become involved far beyond the amount of their investments, as during a temporary embarrassment of the firm in 1881, the crisis had been averted by giving personal notes, which were indorsed by the firm. As soon as it came to be generally known that the Grants had so acted, a disposition was manifested to raise a fund to take from the last days of his career the damning pinch of poverty. General W. T. Sherman led the move- ment, to which Mr. Vanderbilt liberally contributed. Mr. Cyrus W. Field, who was actively pushing the matter, received at this juncture a letter from General Grant, re- questing that a stop be put to the matter, declining the kind work of his friends. The next move in the settlement of the troubles came from Mr. Vanderbilt. Shortly after that gentleman re- turned the deeds sent him by General Grant, he sailed for Europe. The General and his wife inunediately took advantage of his absence, and made formal transfer ot the property in another wa}-. They executed mortgages of all the property in favor of Mr. Vanderbilt. and placed these mortgages in the hands of Mr. Vanderbilt's attor- neys. The general public had been led, by various re- 516 LIFE OF GENEKAL GEANT. ports in the public prints, to form a very unfavorable idea of Mr. Vanderbilt's character, and he had come to be re- garded as utterly selfish and grasping. But his conduct in connection with the loan to General Grant was marked by a generosity and delicacy which did him infinite honor. The concluding events in connection with this transaction cannot better be told than by reprinting the following correspondence : 640 Fifth AvExNUE, January 10th, 1885, Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant — Dear Madam: So many misrepresenta- tions have appeared in regard to the loan made by me to General Grant, reflecting unjustly upon him and myself, that it seems proper to briefly recite the facts. On Sunday, the 4th of May last, General Grant called at my house and asked me to lend him one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for one day. I gave him my check without question, not because the transaction was business-like, but simply because the request came from General Grant. The misfortunes which over- whelmed him in the next twenty -four hours aroused the sympathy and regret of the whole country. You and he sent me within a few days of the time the deeds of your joint properties to cover this obligation, and urged my acceptance on the ground that this was the only debt of honor which the General had personally in- curred, and these deeds I returned. During my absence in Europe the General delivered to my attorney mortgages upon all his own real estate, household effects, and the swords, medals and works of art which were the memorials of liis victories and the presents from governments all over the world. These securities were in his judgment worth the one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At his solicitation the necessary steps were taken by judgment^ etc., to reduce these properties to possession, and the articles men- tioned have this day been bought in by me, and the amount bid applied in reduction of the debt. Now that I am at liberty to treat these things as my own, the disposition of the Avhole matter most in accord with my feelings is this : I present to you as your separate estate the debt and judgment I hold against General Grunt; also the mortgages upon his real estate and all the household furniture and ornaments, coupled only with the condition that the swords, commissions, medals, I FINANCIAL TROUBLES. oiT gifts from the United States, States, cities and foreign govcnuiui its and all articles of historic interest and value shall, at the (Jen- eral's death, or, if you desire it, sooner, be presented to tlie gov- ernment at Washington, where they will remain as perpetual memorials of his fame and of the history of his time. 1 enclose herewith assignments to you of the mortgages and judgments, a bill of sale of the personal property and a deed of trust, in wiiicli the articles of historical interest are enumerated. A copy of this trust deed will, witli your approval, be forwarded to the President of the United States, for deposit in the proper department. Trusting that this action will meet with your acceptance and approval, and with kindest regards to your husband, I am, Yours respectfully, W. H. Vandekbilt. General Grant replied as follows : New York City, January 10(h, 1885. Dear Sir : Mrs. Grant wishes me to answer your letter of this evening, to say that while she appreciates your great generosity in transferring to her the mortgages given to secure my debt of $150,000, she cannot accept it in whole. She accepts with jilens- ure the trust which applies to articles enumerated in your letter to go to the government of the United States at my death, or sooner, at her option. In this matter you have anticipated the disposition wdiich I had contemplated making of the articles. They will be delivered to the government as soon as arrangements can be made for their reception. Papers relating to all other property will be returned, with the request that you have it sold and the proceeds applied to the liquidation of the debt which I so justly owe you. You have stated in your letter with the minutest accuracy the history of the transaction which brought me in your debt. I have only to add that your giving me your check for tiie amount without inquiry was an act of marked and unusual friendship. The loan was to me ])ersonally. I got the money, as I believed, to carry the Marine National Bank over a day, being assured that the bank was solvent, but, owing to unusual calls, needed assistance until it could call in its loans. I was assured by Ferdinand Ward that the firm of Grant & Ward had over 3,000 to their credit at that time in the Marine Bank, besides L,300,000 of unpledged securities in their own vault*. I cannot conclude without assuring you that Mrs. Grant'.s in- 518 LIFE or GENEEAL GRANT. ability to avail herself of your great kindness in no way lessens ■either her sense of obligation or my own. Yours very truly, U. S. Grant. W. H. Vanderbilt, Esq. Mr. Vanderbilt still persisted in his generous purpose, as will be seen from the next letter in the correspondence: 640 Fifth Avenue, January llth, 1885. General U. S. Grant — My dear Sir: On my return home last night I found your letter in answer to mine to Mrs. Grant. I ap- preciate fully the sentiments which actuate both Mrs. Grant and yourself in declining the part of my proposition relating to the real estate. I greatly regret that she feels it her duty to make this decision, as I earnestly hoped that the spirit in which the offer was made would overcome any scruples in accepting it. But I must insist that I shall not be defeated in a purpose to which I have given so much thought, and which I have so much at heart. I will, therefore, as fast as the mone}^ is received from the sales of the real estate, deposit it in the Union Trust Company. With the money thus realized I will at once create with that com- pany a trust, with proper provisions for the income to be paid to Mrs. Grant during her life, and giving the power to her to make such disposition of the principal by her will as she may elect. Very truly yours, W. H. Vanderbilt. The first impulse of the General and his wife, on read- ing this reiteration of Mr. Vanderbilt's generous inten- tions, was to accept, and the following answer was re- turned : New York City, January 11th, 1885. Dear Sir : Your letter of this date is received. Mrs. Grant and I regret that you cannot accept our proposition to retain the prop- erty which was mortgaged in good faith to secure a debt of honor. But your generous determination compels us to no longer resist. Y'ours truly, U. S. Grant. To W. H. Vanderbilt. Upon further reflection, however, Mrs. Grant felt that aiie could not honorably accept the proposition, and she FIKANCIAL TROUBLES. 619 accordingly closed the correspondence with the following note : New York, January IMh, ISSo. My Dear Mr. Vanderbtlt : Upon reading your letter of this afternoon, General Grant and myself felt that it would be un- gracious to refuse your princely and generous offer. Hence his note to you. But upon reflection I find that I cannot, I will not accept your munificence in any form. I beg that you Avill pardon this apparent vacillation, and consider this answer definite and final. With great regard, and sense of obligation that will always re- main, I am, Yours very gratefully, Julia D. Grant. When Mr. Vanderbilt opened the foregoing correspon- dence he had already drawn up a deed of trust, convey- ing the various trophies and presents which had become his property to Mrs. Grant, under the condition men- tioned in the correspondence. This deed of trust, which explains itself, reads as follows : Whereas, I, William H. Vanderbilt, of the city of New York, Toy virtue of a sale made under a judgment in a suit to foreclose a chattel mortgage in the Supreme Court of this State, in which I •was plaintiff and Ulysses S. Grant defendant, which judgment was entered on the 6th day of December, 1884, have become the owner of the property and the articles described in the schedule here- unto annexed, formerly the property of the said Ulysses S. Grant, Now, therefore, to carry out a purpose formed by me, and in -consideration of $1 to me paid, I do hereby transfer and convey each and every one of the articles mentioned and itemized in tlic said schedule to Julia Dent Grant, To have and to hold the same to her, her executors and adminis- trators, upon the trust and agreement, nevertheless, hereby ac- cepted and made by her, that, upon the death of the said Ulysses •S. Grant, or previously thereto, at her or their option, the same shall become and be the property of the nation, and shall be taken to Washington and transferred and conveyed by her and them to .the United States of America. 33 520 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. In witness whereof the said William H. Vanderbilt and Jnlia Dent Grant have executed tliese presents this 10th day of January, 1885, W. H. Vanderbilt, Julia Dent Grant. The following is the list of personal property turned over under this deed by Mr. Vanderbilt to the United States, forever to be the property of the nation and for- ever the record of the nation's distinguished son. The relics were turned over to Colonel R. N. Batchelder, of the War Department, on June 11th, 1885. The list was prepared by Colonel Fred Grant : Mexican onyx cabinet, presented to General Grant by the people ,of Pueblo, Mexico. Aerolite, part of which passed over Mexico in 1871. Bronze vases, presented to General Grant by the people of Yokohama, Japan. Marble bust on pedestal, presented by workingmen of Philadelphia. Large elephant tusks, presented by the King of Siam. Small elephant tusks, presented by the Maharajah of Joharie. Picture of General Scott, by Page, presented by gen- tlemen of New York. Crackleware bowls (very old), presented by Prince Kaon of China. Cloisonne jars (old), presented by Li-Hung-Chang of China. Chinese porcelain jars (old), presented by Prince Kaon of China. Arabian Bible. Coptic Bible, presented by Lord Napier, who captured it from King Theodore of Abyssinia. Sporting rifle. Sword of Donelson, presented to General Grant after FINANCIAL TROUBLES. •'-,21 the fall of Fort Donelson by officers of the army, and used by him to the end of the war New York sword, voted to General Grant at a New York fair. Roman mug and pitcher. Silver menu and card, farewell dinner of San Fran- cisco, Cal. Silver menu of Paris dinner. Horn and silver snuff-box. Silver match-box used by General Grant. Gold table, modelled after the table in Mr. McLean's house, on which General R. E. Lee signed the articles of surrender, and presented to General Grant by ex-Confed- erate soldierSo j Gold cigar-cases from the celestial and second Kings of Siam. Gold-handled knife, presented by the miners of Idalio. Silver trowel, used by General Grant in laying the corner-stone of the Museum of Natural History, New York. Knife made at Sheffield for General Grant. General Grant's gold pen. Embroidered picture (cock and hen), presented by citi- zens of Japan, . Field-glasses used by General Grant during the war. L'on-headed cane made from the rebel ram Merrimac. Silver-headed cane from wood used in defence of Fort Sumter. Gold-headed cane made out of wood from old Fort Duquesne, Pennsylvania. Gold-headed cane, presented in token of General Grant's humanity during the war. Gold-headed cane used by Lafayette and presented by the ladies of Baltimore. 522 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Carved wood cane from estate of Sir Walter Scott. Uniform as General of the United States army. Fifteen buttons cut from coats during the war by Mrs.5 Grant after various battles. Hat ornaments used at Belmont and Fort Donelson. Shoulder-straps (Brigadier-General), worn by General Grant at Belmont, Fort Donelson and Shiloh, and straps of Lieutenant-General, cut from the coat used by General Grant in the campaigns against Richmond, Petersburg; and Lee's army. Medal (gold) from the American Congress for opening the Mississippi. Gold medal from Philadelphia. Forty-five medals in gold, silver and bronze. Silk papers printed for General Grant. Collection of coins, Japanese. This is the only com- plete set, except one in the Japanese Treasury. Seven i of these pieces cost $5,000. Presented by Ihe govern ment of Japan. Warrant as cadet at West Point and army commissions ] from Brevet Second Lieutenant to that of General. Papers and mementoes, comprising addresses, honorary society commissions and resolutions of respect, as well as the freedom of cities presented abroad. Just at this time there came one ray of sunshine to break the dark shadows. Congress, animated by the sentiment that pulsed through the public heart, took action on the question of the General's restoration to the army list. Several attempts had previously been made to place General Grant upon the retired list, but they were not successful owing to personal and party jealousies that reigned supreme so long as Grant was prosperous. The hour of his misfortune disarmed his enemies. The record of Congress shows how the bill was finally passed : i FINANCIAL TEOUBLES. rm Washington, March 4. — Mr. Randall asked unanimous consent to take from the Speaker's table and pass the iGrant retirement bill. [Applause.] I Mr. Bennett, of North Carolina, and Mr. Weller, of Iowa, objected. I Mr. Randall then moved to suspend the rules and Iplace the bill on its passage, but the Speaker ruled the motion was not in order, pending a decision of the elec- tion case. Mr. Randall then endeavored to secure his point by movmg to suspend the rules and lay the election case on the table, but the Speaker decided this was equally out of order. The confusion and excitement in the chamber was in- tense. Dozens of members were on their feet demanding recognition, but above the babel of voices rang out Ran- dall's voice appealing to Mr. Bennett, of North Carolina, to withdraw the election case. Finally, when he could be heard, Mr. Bennett said that if the house would con- sent to vote on the Fredericks- Wilson case, all objection to Mr. Randall's motion would be withdrawn. This declaration was greeted by a storm of consents from the Republican side, and the confusion was so great that it required five minutes' diligent work by the ser- geant-at-arms with his mace in hand before comparative order was restored. Then Mr. Wilson, of Iowa, contesting in the election case, rose, and amid a storm of cheers on the Republican side, said that if the house would put General Grant on the retired list, he was willing to be sacrificed. Mr. Miller, of Pennsylvania, who has been leading the filibustering against the election case, said that if the house would permit a vote on Mr. Randall's motion the opposition to the election case would be withdrawn. 524 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. This was greeted by shouts of objection from the Demo cratic side, and Mr. Randall, rushing down to the space in front of the clerk's desk, cried out, '^ Don't let anything, stand ni the way. Agree to anything." " Then," said Mr. Miller, " in order that there may be no excuse, I withdraw and permit a vote on the proposition! of the gentleman from North Carolina, and I ask the house to treat us fairly on both votes." After another scene of confusion, Mr. Bennett de- manded the previous question on the resolution of thei committee on elections declaring Fredericks entitled to the seat. The resolution was adopted without any oppositioni from the Republican side, and instantly upon Fredericks taking the oath of office, Mr. Randall was on his feet with his motion to suspend the rules and pass the Senate bill for the retirement of General Grant, without specifically naming him. | McMillen demanded a -second, while shouts of ^' Shame," and "Oh, don't go back on your word," and " That's fair," went up. Nearly every member was on ' his feet, adding to the tumult, and prominent among them wore Cassidy and Robertson, of Kentucky, demand- ing fair play. Again did the services of the sergeant-at- arnis and his mace become necessary to seat the members, and then, a second having been considered as ordered, McMillen, Stockslager and Watson briefly opposed the bill as inaugurating a system of civil pensions, Mr, Randall, who, under the rules, was entitled to fifteen minutes debate, waived the right, and the yeas and nays were immediately taken on the motion to suspend the rules and pass the bill. When the name of Mr. Fredericks, the newly-seated member was called, he arose and voted in the affirmative, and the friends of FINANCIAL TROUBLES. 625 the bill treated him to a round of applause. The motion to suspend the rules and pass the bill was agreed to — yeas 108, nays 78. The announcement of the result was hailed with three cheers, and with long and continued applause. Mr. Skinner asked unanimous consent that the Speaker be authorized to send a telegraphic dispatch to General Grant announcing to him the result. At first objection , was made by Mr. Cobbe, but it was subsequently with- drawn, and the Speaker was authorized to send the des- patch as proposed. Mr. Randall was warmly congratulated on his success by a number of members on both sides of the house. On motion of Mr. Morrill the Chair appointed a com- mittee ot two Senators to act with such committee as the house may appoint to notify the President of the United Statec that Congress, having finished its business, was now ready to adjourn. The Senators appointed were Messrs. Morrill and Har- ris. At 11.35 a messenger from the house announced the passage of a bill authorizing the President to place one person on the retired list of the army. [Applause.] The bill was read at length. Mr. Ingalls then said : " Mr. President, the Nation knows who that one person is. I ask unanimous consent that the reference of this bill to the committee be waived, and that it be now considered by the Senate." The presiding officer (Mr. Garland), stated the bill was a Senate bill, and nothing further was necessary to make it a law, except the proper signatures. [Applause.] Mr. Edmunds, resuming the chair, stated he had re- ceived a communication which would now be read. He handed the communication to Chief Clerk Jolin.son, who read as follows : 526 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. To the Hon. George F. Edmunds, President pro tempore United States Senate : The accompanying communication, although an executive message, may be read in open session. Chester A. Arthur. [Applause.] The President pro tempore of the Senate. — Manifesta- tions of applause are not in order. The clerk read as follows : Executive Mansion, March ith, 1885. To the Senate of the United States : I nominate Ulysses S. Grant,, formerly commanding the armies of the United States, to be Gen- eral on the retired list of the army, with the full pay of such rank. Chester A. Arthur. The president pro tem. of the Senate then announced that the nomination would be considered in open session. " The question now is. Will the Senate advise and consent to this appointment ? All Senators in favor will say aye. [A storm of ayes.] All opposed, no. [Dead silence.] The ayes have it unanimously." CHAPTER XXXIV. grant's desperate illness — HOW THE DISEASE DEVELOPED HIS TROUBLE A CANCER IN THE THROAT THE Vl(;iLS OF THE DOCTORS AND A HISTORY OF THE CASE THE HERO IS BAPTIZED THE LOVE OF THE PEOPLE HOW HE WAS WATCHED AND TENDED THE REMOVAL TO MOUNT MCGREGOR-DEATH-SYMPATHY OF THE WORLD. The course of our story brings us now to its painful close; to the weary days of watching beside a sufferer who is so close to the shore of the endless river that he longs to cross its silent tide and enter the peace of the lii'e beyond. Stonewall Jackson, weary, weak and dying, said to his surviving friends, " Let us cross over the river and rest beneath the trees." Grant often, in the hour of his agony, wished for the same peace — a peace that a brave man longs for. That he should so wish is easily understood when the reader remembers that in all Grant's long career he was a stranger to sickness. The ills and terrors of war, the thousand bodily dangers to which a com- mander is subjected, never seemed to harm him; he came out of it all unscathed. How his terrible disease came about is thus related by a member of his family: "Early last autumn, 1884, General Grant was visiting at the house of Mr. George W. Childs, at Long Branch, and with his family and friends was sitting on the piazza one bright afternoon. In the course of conversation the General said : '1 ate a (527) 528 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. peach the other day, and ever since I have had a sore throat.' Thereupon he coughed considerably, and Mr. Childs suggested that he should allow Dr. Da Costa, of Philadelphia, who was also visiting at the house, to examine his throat. The doctor did so, and decided in his own mind at that time that the case was one of epi- thelioma. He at once advised the General to see his family physician as soon as he arrived in New York. " ' Who is your family physician ? ' asked Dr. Da Costa. " ' Dr Fordyce Barker,* answered the General. " 'Ah ! I am glad to hear that ; you could not be in better hands," replied the doctor. " The General's throat continued to get sorer, and trou- bled him not a little. When he returned to New York he called upon Dr. Barker and asked him to look at it, which the doctor did, and after prescribing for him, asked him to call upon Dr. J. H. Douglas, of Twenty-sixth street. " In a few days the General and Mrs. Grant called upon Dr. Douglas. This was early last October, and since that time the doctor has been his attending physician. Dr. Douglas is a specialist in throat diseases. ''As far back as that time each of these physicians agreed that the General had epithelioma, or cancer of the throat." During the months of November, December and Janu- ary there was no appreciable change for the worse, except that one day the General would feel very well and the next day very much depressed. About the middle of February an alarming change was noticed. Drs. Barker and Douglas, being unwilling to shoulder the entire responsibility of such an important case, decided to call some one else in. Dr. Barker had met in consulta- SICKNESS AND DEATH. 629 tion a few days before, in another case, Dr. Markoo; Dr. Douglas, in a similar way, had met Dr. Sands, and it was agreed to ask these two physicians to come in. On the 19th of February all four physicians met at the residence of General Grant and looked at his tlu'oat. They also decided that the case was epithelioma. The result of this consultation was suppressed until February 22d, when the newspapers gave a full account of it. Previously Drs. Elliott and Satterthwaite had examined pieces of the throat under a microscojDe, and they, too, had decided that the case was epithelioma. The next consultation was held on March 8th. Dr. Mar- koe did not attend this consultation, but Dr. George F. Shrady was substituted in his place. His opinion coin- cided with that of the others. As the case went on, Drs. Barker and Sands attended only in consultation, the actual work devolving upon Drs. Douglas and Shrady. In a few days the General grew much worse. Besides the large ulcer in the throat, his system generally became very much depressed and wasted. By this time the whole nation watched by the bed of the sufterer. The world was aware that it must lose its great General, and the waiting millions held their breath. The medical diagnosis of his disease at this time — which will interest our medical readers — is thus given b\- Dr. Shrady, on May 7th: " The condition still involves the right and posterior parts of the pharynx, the right tonsillar region and the right side of the base of the tongue. The palatal curtain is still considerably infiltrated, although all signs of acute inflammatory trouble have disappeared. At the base of the uvula, on the right side, a small fungoid excrescence has developed, which has shown a disposition to extend. " On the free margin of the palatal curtain, midway 530 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. between the uvula and right tonsillar region, a similar growth of very small size has also appeared. The ulcera- tion at the base of the right anterior faucial pillar, and alongside of the tongue, presents a worm-eaten surface, indicating an extension of the destructive process. The breathing is free and the voice is clear, but the movements of the tongue are somewhat restricted, affecting articula- tion accordingly. The enlarged glands under and around the right angle of the lower jaw are somewhat harder, and, in consequence of surrounding inflammatory infiltra- tion, are quite firmly fixed. There is, however, less pain in the diseased parts than formerly, and the secretion of mucus is less abundant. The patient obtains a full night's sleep with a minimum amount of morphine, and awakes in the morning feeling much refreshed." The doctors, when this diagnosis was made, were firmly convinced that the disease was cancer of the tongue only, and all that they could do was to ease the General along until his inevitable death. They remained in the house day and night. At times the General gave up all hope. On that eventful evening when he was expected to die at any moment, the forms of all the newspapers were held in readiness to issue a special edition. There were in the house Drs. Shrady and Douglas. The family were up all night, and with them were Dr. Newman and General Badeau. General Grant was very low, and in the early morning had an alarming hemorrhage. The family were gathered around him, every member crying. The Gen- eral reclined in one chair, with his pillow behind him, and rested his feet on another chair. Dr. Shrady was sleeping in another room. In rushed Dr. Douglas and roused him with the words, " It's all over." " What ! " said Shrady, " do you mean to say that the man is dead ? " SICKNESS AND DEATH. 631 " No ; not dead, but he will be in a lew minutes. Notii- ing can save him." Dr. Shrady jumped up and ran into the room wliere tlie General was. Mrs. Grant, weeping, reached out her hand and said : " Ulysses, do you know me ? " The General's chin was resting upon his breast. He slowly raised his head and said : " Yes." Dr. Newman exclaimed : " It is all over ; I will baptize him." He went quickly into another room, got a silver bowl, filled it with water, came back, dipped his iiand into it, and said : " I baptize thee, Ulysses Simpson Grant, in the name of the Father, Son and Holy Ghost." The General slowly raised his head and remarked : " I thank you." Then, turning to his family, he raised one hand and uttered the words : " I bless you all." To Dr. Newman he observed : " Doctor, I intended to attend to this myself" Meanwhile Drs. Shrady and Douglas were consulting with each other in the corner. The strain was intense. Dr. Douglas said : " He will die sure. He has gone ; the pulse has left the wrist." Dr. Shrady, as if struck by inspiration, replied : " I will give him brandy." " You cannot do it ; he cannot swallow." s:iid Dr. Douglas. " I will give it hypodermically," answered Dr. Shrady. " How much ? " asked Dr. Douglas. " A barrelful if necessary," retorted Dr. Shrady. Dr. Shrady rushed into another room. " Harrison," «aid he to the man-servant, "have you any brandy?" Harrison answered " Yes," and handed him some. Dr. Shrady rushed back and gave Grant a syringeful in each arm. The General revived, the pulse returned to his wrist, and his life, for the time, was saved. 532 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The manifestations of interest in the dying hero were world-wide and profound. Kings and queens and empe- rors, ambassadors and ministers, senators and congress- men, judges and divines, soldiers and citizens, o;rown people and children, every one everywhere expressed their tender sympathy for the dying hero. Notably so on the occasion of his sixty-third birthday — April 27th. Early in the morning his neighbors showed their gratitude that the old hero's life had been spared by throwing their country's flag to the breeze. Telegrams and letters of congratulation began to pour in on the General from all parts of the country. Soon after he arose and continued up throughout the day. By noon Fred Grant had an- swered nearly two hundred and fifty inquiries from people in this city and elsewhere. Messenger boys, with huge boxes or bouquets of flowers, darted in and out, and many ladies drove up in their carriages and handed in their floral tributes themselves. It was a day of joy in the Grant household, and the patient himself was the happiest of all. Birthday cards were sent by the basketful, of the most expensive and costly finish, from all over the United States, several of which were most unique. General Grant sent the following for publication : " To the various army Posts, societies, cities, public schools. States, corporations and individuals, North and South, who have been so kind as to send me congratula- tions on my sixty-third birthday, I wish to offer my grate- ful acknowledgments. The despatches have been so numerous and so touching in tone that it would have been impossible to answer them if I had been in perfect health." As the hot weather of summer approached it became a question of where to take the patient. The General's preferences were for the seaside ; his doctors' orders for TEKDEli CARE OF THE DYING IlEKO. 533 534 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. mountain air. Mr. Joseph W. Drexel, a wealthy New Yorker, owned a very pleasant summer residence on Mount McGregor, not far from Saratoga. This residence was tendered General Grant for his use, and on June 10th the patient was successfully moved. Every precaution was taken to render the journey safe and comfortable. Mr. Vanderbilt tendered the use of his private car and a special train. The train arrived at Mount McGregor at 2 p. M. General Grant was unable to walk to the cbttage, he had suffered so much on the journey. When he reached the house his speech had utterly failed him, and though Dr. Douglas, who accompanied the sick man, con- sidered that he had borne up wonderfully well, he saw it was an effort of will, not a result of physical strength. The change was well planned, for the patient soon began to improve and to gain somewhat on the disease. For a couple of weeks after General Grant was removed to Mount McGregor the bulletins issued from there were of a reassuring character. The general sympathies of the masses were gratified in the hope that perhaps the sufferer would get well. It was not to be. The Angel of Death was a patient watcher beside that soldier's bed. A premonition of the end came on the 22d of July. The special correspondents who for weeks had maintained their ceaseless death-watch, on that morning telegraphed as follows : "General Grant is dying. There has been an alarming change for the worse in his condition, and death may come at any moment. The physician in charge will be sur- prised if the General should live more than a day longer. The General slept a good portion of Monday night from sheer exhaustion. He began the day feeling very weak. He was nervous and at times lost consciousness. He •could retain but little liquid nourishment. Throughout 11 SICKXESS AND DEATH. .V..t the day he seemed to grow weaker, and when iii^lit set- tled down upon the mountains there wa.s no one in the cottage who did not reahze that the end was near. 'J'lie famil}- gathered about the sick man. The}- feared at one time that he might not live out the night, hut a shght rally for the better gave promise that he might see the light of another day. Dr. Douglas has telegraphed all the absent memljers of General Grant's family that if they wish to see the General alive tliey nmst come imniediatelv, as he does not think life can be prolonged hiter tliaii Wednesday evening. The doctor has also summoned all the other physicians to come at once to Mount Mc- Gregor." Though the General was greatly exhausted by the jolt- ing ride in his Bath chair on Monday afternoon, it v.aa beheved yesterday morning that the eight hours of natural gleep obtained the night before had restored a portion uf the energy lost during his outing. The belief that the Gen- eral bad in a measure recovered from his fatigue was su[)- ported by a refreshed and somewhat brighter appearance. His pulse had scai-cely the volume it had at eleven o'clock Monday night, and as the morning wore on the doctor thought he detected evidences of a feverish condition of the patient; but the forenoon was passing so quietly as to give strength to a belief that the General was resting and further recuperating from the fatigue of the outing, which had been uiidertaken at his solicitation, b^- liis ex- pressed desire and after an assurance by liiinself that liis strength was equal to the accomplishment of liis purpose. But towards noon there grew in the physician's mnnl :i I conviction, at the time unex^Dected, that the dozing quietude of his patient was more that of extreme and growing lassitude than of restful repose. At midday there was a slight change in the siek man's 34 5.S6 LIFE OF GEXERAL GRANT. condition, which was marked hy increased weakness and less cognizance of wliat was going on about him. Tliis change was so slightly marked, however, that no unusual alarm was felt hy the family, thougli it was deemed ad- visable to report the same to Dr. Douglas, who at the time was at the hotel. Accordingly Mr. Jesse Grant walked up to the slope to speak to the doctor, who then went down to the cottage. The General was less quiet, though he desired rest. He informed the physician that he had declined alcoholic stimulants because he believed thev served onlv to heat his sj-stem without imparting any strength. He expressed himself as feeling that he could endure his condition of weakness but a short time longer, and then requested the physician to administer a hypodermic injection of moi-- phine. Dr. Douglas was not much inclined to grant this request, because he believed that sleep and rest produced by artificial means would too rapidly drain the vitality of the patient. Besides this, a lethargic tendency was de- veloping in the case, which also influenced the doctor against giving morphine, and, more than tiiis. Dr. Doug- las preferred that his patient should take food rather than opiates, and requested the General to do so. The sick man, however, declined, and insisted on the administration of morphine. At length, to satisfy him. Dr. Douglas administered a portion of morphine, which General Grant believed to contain tliree minims of the drug. As a ftict, that quantity was not administered, but a slight portion diluted in the usual three drops of liquid was injected into the General's arm. Then the sick man grew quieter and seemed to sleep, and then it was that tlie physician left the cottage and reported his patient ex- ceedingly weak. The quietude, however, was not protracted. It has SICKNESS AND DEATH. .531 since been made known that the Geneial was attackccl yesterday forenoon with hiccough, and this disturbing and rapidly weakening, as well as significant factor, was presi-nt in the afternoon and with added frequency. The sleep which followed the giving of morphine, as stated, was followed hy renewed hiccoughing. Attempts were made as the afternoon was waning to give the General food. He joined in the endeavor, but the amount was sninll. THE COTTAGE AT MOUNT M'GREGOU. A half hour might elapse aijd again the sick man would ghmce up, as though having forgotten something he would have remembered, and ejaculate the question, " When are you going to give me the food you spoke of?" and when told that he had just received food, but that more would be given if desired, t4ie General would again fdl into a half-unconscious doze and mutter, " Never mind, never mind." The afternoon was sultry and almost breathless, with the thermometer registering as high as eighty-five de- grees. There were no reviving elements in the atmos- 538 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. phere, and the sun went down after a day of stilling dis- comfort, even to persons in good health. The ex-Presi- dent remained in his room and was not dressed during the remainder of the day. lie did not move except, to rise when the pillows, kept constantly beneath him to prevent bed sores, were beaten up and aired. Several times he walked feebly to his cot in the sick room while his rest- ing-place was being thus aired and freshened. So the afternoon wore on, and at six o'clock Dr. Douglas went to the hotel to dinner. The Grant family were then dining. Rev. Dr. Newman came up the mountain on the train arriving at G.15 P. M. He joined the General's fam- ily at their table, and there Dr. Douglas reported the Gen- eral's condition. He said the patient was in a critical condition, and would hazard no prediction of the future — not even of the night. Dinner concluded. Dr. Newman and Dr, Douglas re- turned to the cottage. A light breeze had sprung up with the going down of the sun, and hope was expressed that the cooling air of the evening might revive the patient. Colonel Fred Grant had been at the cottage but a little while after his return from dinner, when he was said to have expressed the belief that his father would not sur- vive the night. The servants, as well as the l^imily, were conscious that a critical season was near, and suspense and illy-suppressed anxiety prevailed in and about the cottage. The critical condition of the patient was not generally known at the hotel, and merry groups of guests were scattered about the piazzas. Twilight settled down on the mountain and the electric lights Hashed up about the hotel grounds and in the cot- tage. Colonel Grant gave orders that all manuscripts and literary effects at the cottage office should be at once packed up and made safe, as no more work on the Gen- SICKNESS AND DEATH. 539 eral's meimoirs would probably be done there. Mrs. Grant, Mrs. Sartoris, Mr. Jesse Grant and wife, and Col- onel Grant's wife were sitting on the piazza or walking in and out of the cottage. Twilight was deepening into dusk when hurried movements were observed within the cottage. Servants flitted from room to room, and Colonel Fred Grant moved nervously about. Dr. Douglas was with the patient and family at alternate intervals, and some event seemed imminent. Ilenr}-, the nurse, was seen to wheel one of the General's large chairs from the sick room to the cottage parlor. Dr. Douglas and Colonel Grant soon supported the sick man from his apartment and settled him in the great chair that the nurse had cushioned with pillows. The General's face was turned towards the cottage door, through which, if he noted surroundings, he could have seen the brilliantly-lighted hotel as a vista through the native pine trees, that stood up dark and whispering with the evening breeze on the slope above the cottage. Mrs. Grant then took a place beside her husband and fanned him almost incessantly. Dr. Douglas, when questioned, said the General had been brought into the parlor so that he might benefit In- freer air; but though the sick man was coherent when he spoke in whispers, he spoke but little and was sinking surely. Members of the family passed througli tlie room and gathered at the doors and windows ; then were seated on the piazza, but for short periods, and then passed from room to room. The dusk had given way to daikness. •The General, seeming to take little note of occurrences about him, still sat with his face to the door, while the nurse and Mrs. Grant waved fans before his face. Critical moments were passing. Mrs. Grant whispered to Dr. Newman shortly before nine o'clock and asked him to offer prayer. The clergy- 540 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. mfin knelt beside the General and offered prayer, while the family and the physician stood with bowed heads. It was an impressive scene. Dr. Newman remarked that the critical change was evident in the face finally. That had been last to show the nearness of the end and the eyes seemed larger and wore a wistful and changed expression. The intellect, however, remained supreme. At midnight the cottage was quiet, though the electric lights gleamed bright on the piazzas. For an hour the patient's pulse had been fluttering and weak, but soon after nine o'clock it steadied and grew a shade firmer. Then he lowered his feet and crossed his knees; next he raised his hand to his face and rested his cheek against it. Dr. Douglas was beside the man he had so long watched, and as these changes took place he glanced up significantly into the faces of the family grouped around the chair. Finally, as the hour of ten o'clock drew near. General Grant looked up and spoke to his daughter Nellie. Then he indicated a purpose to write and did so. There were instructions for his family. Handing one note to Colonel Fred, the General looked up into his face with large eyes that had in them a pitiful expression. " I have already attended to that, father," returned the colonel, as he bent over the General. The General addressed other members of the family. The pulse was growing steadier, and the night had passed beyond eleven o'clock, and a half hour later the sick man demonstrated that he was General to the last. The family were sitting on the piazza or standing near the windows and entrances. The General beckoned Dr. Douglas to his side. " Tell them all to go to bed," he whispered, and then added : '• There is no earthly use of sitting up longer." SICKNESS AND DEATH. 541 Dr. Douglas walked out on the piazza and delivered this message of command. It was obeyed by all except Colonel Grant, who remained during the night witli Dr. Douglas. Dr. Newman and Stenographer Dawson re- paired to the hotel and the various members ol" the llunily retired to their rooms in the cottaGfc. o At times the General received a hypodermic injectin of brandy. This brightened him. His pulse becatne quite regular and showed some firmness. He was awake and perfectly conscious. The rally, however, was made with- out any stimulants; indeed, he refused them when ollered. The day following, Thursday, July 23d, was to be the last on earth. The w^atching, patient correspondents thus described the scenes : " MocNT McGregor, July 23d, 9 a. m. "The early morning hours of yesterday at the Grant cottage were cool and refreshing. On the veranda, where the incandescent electric lamps were burning all night, the thermometer at two o'clock this morning marked seventy-two degrees. This was the equable temperature maintained in the sick-room while General Grant remained in New York, and to it was added this morning the sweet smell from the pine trees that bend over the cottage roof. A gentle breeze, soft and delicious, swept miles and miles down the valley and from the mountains. It stirred the curtains at the window near which sat the sick man, iind it fanned his face more gratefully than could the careful hands that were watching near. Between two and three o'clock this morning the gray tint of another day crept up the horizon beyond the Green Mountains. xVround the cottage all was quiet, except for the occasional twitter of a bird in the birches or pines. Occasionally Hemy, the nurse, walked out upon the piazza for fresher air and a 542 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. glimpse of the night. Once, at nearly three o'clock, Mrs. Grant, attired in a loose gown of white, came out upon the veranda and seated herself in one of the many deserted willow chairs that were scattered in groups about the piazza. For ten minutes she sat motionless and gazed away to the east, where the gray tint of another day had grown to a fuller promise. Her face rested on her hand, and she was evidently wrapt in thought. " Suddenly there came the sound of coughing from within the cottage. The General was clearing his throat of mucus. Mrs. Grant left the piazza quickly and seated herself by the General's side, slowly fanning his face. The cou(]rhin2: was not severe. Colonel Fred Grant entered the room while the nurse was aidim? his father and took a seat at the side and behind the General. It was time to administer food. The nurse touched the shoulder of Dr. Douglas as he lay asleep on a couch in the same room. He arose fully dressed, as he was all night, and seated himself beside the patient. The food was given from a cup and the mouth and throat were cleared by the doctor. " It was nearly four o'clock and the gray of the east had changed to pale orange tints. AVhen the physician laid aside his appliances General Grant leaned forward in his chair and signified a desire that a lamp should be brought. The nurse brought a candle and held it at the sick man's shoulder, and at the moment the General turned his face toward the light and upward to bid the nurse bring his pad and pencil. His wish was not at the moment under- stood, and turning a trifle further the General repeated his wish. " The scene at this moment was a picture in shadows. As the flickering candle rays fell across the face of Gen- eral Grant it became a grim Rembrandt, with strong, SICKNESS AND DEATH. i548 rugged lines broken down by suflering and p.-iin. On his head was the skidl cap that at all times lent a startling effect to his appearance, and from beneath it struggled the hair that clung in sweat-moistened locks about the emaciated neck. A crimson scarf had been thi'own over the back of the General's chair, but as he leaned forward it drew across his shoulders, one end being gatiiered uiidcr his arm. A dark dressing-gown covered the patient's attenuated form, and a handkerchief encircled his neck. The gray of the close-cut beard seemed white, and the lines on cheeks and forehead were deep indeed, and when the face was turned upward to speak the eyes seemed grayer, too, and abnormally larger. They w'ere clear and steady, showing that the General's reason was clearly at his command ; but there was that wistful and yearning expression in them that makes women weep and men grow sympathetic. The General's face as he spoke ap- peared strained and drawn, but its color and fulness were not such as would be expected after such suffering and care. The lips moved heavily and the whisper was husky and low, but the nurse understood and the pad and pencil were brought. Then, while the red light of the candle fell on his downcast face, he wrote, but only brielly. "The slip was handed to Dr. Douglas, who at once turned it over to Colonel Grant, who had arrived and stood beside his mother at the General's side. It was a private family communication, and when finished the sick man resumed his half-reclining position, with his head slightly inclined forward and his elbows on the sides of the chair, while the fingers of either hand were interlocked each with the other beneath his chin. " It was 4.30 A. M., and the peaks of the mountains eastward were darkly outlined against the reddening •dawn. The fiint glow crept between the pines and 544 LIFE OF GE]S^ERAL GllANT. birches through the cottage windows and tinged the sick man's cheek with the dawn of what was believed by the doctors to be his Last day. At five o'clock Dr. Doughas M-as aroused to send a summons for Dr. Sands. It was sent onl}^ that the responsibility of the case at the close of the night should be shared by the members of the medical staff, and not with the thought that an}- aid could be rendered by any person at that time or through the opening day. " The General moved restlessly and his eyes for a few minutes gazed intently away through the trees, where a new day was beginning. Then he settled down in his chair and dozed." " As the morning advanced the General was given stimulants, but he grew weaker hour by liour. The morning was clear, and the mercur}^ registered 80 degrees at eleven o'clock. All visitors were kept from the cottage, and the quiet of a Sabbath day prevailed about the spot. Dr. Douglas and Rev. Dr. Newman remained with the family, and the morning was one of quiet waiting. The General sat as he did last night. His eyes were closed most of the time, but his mind was clear whenever he spoke. The only one necessary to make the family complete was U. S. Grant, Jr., who had been telegraphed to last night. The doors of the General's room were shut and the blinds closed, but the cool breeze of the early afternoon found a passage through the blinds. At 2.15 o'clock the members of the family and Dr. Newman were grouped in the darkened room near General Grant. Ob- serving their evidences of feeling, the General said : * I do not want anybody to be distressed on my account.' " A singular occurrence at the cottage was related by Dr. Newman as taking'place at one o'clock. At five min- utes of one the General asked the hour of the day. SICKNESS AND DKATII. 645 "'One o'clock,' spoke one of tlioso near tlic Clcncral. Soon afterward the cottage clock chimed twelve strokes, and the General counted them. Then he wrote on his pad that he observed the clock was wrong, ajid indicatecl a desire to have it struck to the right hour, wliich was done, and the incident passed as one more of the remark- able episodes of the General's later sickness, "Dr. Sands and Dr. Shrady arrived at quarter past tlireo o'clock, on a special train, -svliich also brought U. S. Grant, Jr., and his wife. The new-comers retired at once to the cottage, when the phj-sicians met immediately with Dr. Doudas in consultation. Having left the cottage, it was stated that Drs. Shrady and Sands had found General Grant in the critically low condition already stated by Dr. Douglas. No one of the staff was willing to make any prediction beyond twenty-four hours, whicli period it was then deemed possible that the General miglit survive. The doctors found the pulse to be 100 beats a minute. The pulse was said, unofficially, to have been as high as 130 degrees. " The development of weakness during the afternoon was not particularly noticeable from hou;' to hour, but between three o'clock and six o'clock there was a clearly, if not violently, marked increase of weakness. At tliree o'clock it was possible to measure the pulse beats, but at six o'clock one of the physicians stated that the pulse could not be counted. There were two reasons existent for the inability of the doctors to catch tlie pulse l)eats— they were so frequent and so feeble. During the at'ter- noon the blood-tide had so quickened that it more rapidly wore the system and exhausted the frail ))asis. if any existed, upon which might be placed a hope that the General would rally. The point was reached at six o'clock, when there was little to be exf>c^cted frotn at- 546 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. tempts to administer food. Soon after six o'clock Har- rison came up from the cottage and told Drs. Sands and Shrady that Dr. Douglas desired to see them at the cot- tage. Thither went the doctors. They remained, how- ever, but a short time. While the temperature of General Grant was nearly, if not quite, normal, the respirations were nearly thirty per minute. The family, beginning at six o'clock, came to the hotel to dinner in twos, the others remaining at the cottage. The family dined in a private room set apart for their use at the hotel, in order that sit this critical time they might be secluded from the curious. The closed and silent cottage had all day sug- gested the enactment of the last scene in General Grant's earthly existence. " While the physicians were at dinner Harrison came to the hotel and called Dr. Douglas, who went at once and alone to the cottage. Soon afterward another messenger summoned Drs. Shrady and Sands, and they repaired to the cottage, closely followed by Rev. Dr. Newman. The exits of the doctors and clergyman from the hotel were, however, so quietly effected that few knew that they had been summoned to the cottage. After arriving there they found General Grant again evidently sinking. The Gen- eral seemed restless. " ' Would you like to lie down, father?' asked Colonel Fred Grant, who noticed his father's restlessness. " The General nodded and at the same moment tried to rise unassisted, but the effort was too great and he sank back into the chair, and the colonel and nurse aided him to arise and then supported him to the bed, where he was carefully lowered to a reclining position and partly on his face. Dr. Douglas then rolled the chair back, and one of the phj^sicians remarked that the General had now left his chair for the last time. The belief was that General SICKNESS AND DEATH. 647 Grant had at length Liin down to die. Tlio family were all gathered around the sick man, and ajrain Dr. New- man, at about the same hour as last night, and ;;t .Mrs. Grant's request, knelt beside the General and })ra3ed. Heads were bow^d and tears were on the cheeks of men as well as of women. "As the sun went down a cool breeze, as last night, sprang up, and all thought that the cool night would help General Grant to rally. The doctors, however, were prepared to attend the General's death-bed at a moment's notice. The doctors stood somewhat apart, and the family was near its fast-sinking head, and then, after an hour, death seemed a little less rapidly gaining on the man it had pursued just nine months to-day, for it w:\sjust nine months ago to-day that General Grant walked into Dr. Douglas' office to seek his professional aid for the cancer that has done what war could not do. Then the doctors and clergyman strolled out upon the piazza and sat near the parlor window, and Jesse Grant joined them at times ; but the other members of the fomily remained in the sick-room and watched and w^aited, while the Gen- eral answered 'yes' and 'no' to several questions. " Time there passed slowly indeed, and at length, at 8.15 o'clock, Dr. Douglas left the cottage. " ' How is it, doctor?' w^as asked him. " ' He is dying,' said the gray-haired physician. " ' Will he live an hour ? ' was asked again. " ' Oh, yes, and possibly more, but he is passing away/ was the response; and, after a little time at the hotel, Dr. Douglas returned to the cottage. "At nine o'clock the General's pulse had reacluMl the point of 165 beats to the minute and was {jiittering. About nine o'clock General Grant sank into a sleep that was described by a witness as the peacrfnl and 548 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. beautiful sleep of ii cliikl. This condition, however, was not one to command confidence, for the pulse beats were still rapidly fluttering, and the respiration, which nor- mally is fourteen to the minute, was now forty-four. At 10.30, however, it was stated by reliable authority that the General was in slightly better condition than two hours before, and quieter, but as against any hopeful in- ference that might be drawn from this fact was the other fact that from this condition, which bordered upon the lethargic state, the patient might quietly drift into final unconsciousness. " During the evening the extremities of the sick man had been cold, and in the visible symptoms were the signs that nature puts out when death is chilling the powers. The General, as the night passed, seemed to be suffering no pain, though the lines of his face were drawn and the furrows of the brow were knitted as he lay upon the cot, beside which the family were constantly watching. " At eleven o'clock the General was not asleep. The hands and forearms were colder than two hours before, but the feet not so nmch so. The pulse and respiration had not changed. The patient's mind was yet clear and comprehensive of events and utterances about him. Be- tween ten and eleven o'clock Dr. Shrady had accosted the General, and he answered in a husky voice and promptly. Siinudants were being used sparingly. There was ex- pressed by medical authority about eleven o'clock a belief that the closing crisis might occur either at one or four o'clock in the morning. "At midnight General Grant remained quiet, though he was not asleep, the coming hour being looked for with great anxiety. " Bottles of hot water were placed at the General'^ SICKNESS AND DEATH. 549 feet to induce warmth, uiul mustard ijlastcrs wore apnlicd [over the stomach and breast to preserve the Ihigt^Mii-: circulation. '' 1 A. M. — General Grant remains in the same condi- tion. Pulse and respiration are unchanged, and tlKM-u is a feeling that he may tide over the weakness until 4 A. M. Hypodermics of brandy are being usimI. '' 2 A. M. — The family is astir at the cottage, tijough there are no visible indications that point to other cmdi- tions than at the time of the last bulletin. "3 A. M. — General Grant is in a somnolent condition. The respirations have grown shallow and the General is no longer able to expectorate, because of weakness, which is increasing. There seems little possibility that the patient will survive the night. "4 A. M. — The respirations are fifty, the pulse so rai)id as not to be counted, and hypodermics, which have been quite freely administered through the night, have no longer any marked effect. The family are still astir. ''At six o'clock the ladies of the family were seated on the veranda wdth Drs. Douglas and Shrady. Dr. New- man paced up and down the paths about the cottage. Through the open door and windows the quick breatiiing of the General was distinctly audible. Dr. Douglas came out, but could give no suggestion of adefniite limit ot the General's life. " ' His brain, his heart and his lungs are alive, and that is all I can say of either or all,' said the doctor. " With the coming of lidit the doctors urged the fauiily so strongly to take some rest, telling theui that they would be called in case of a crisis, that they reluctantly complied. Dr. Sands had gone to the hotel at eight o'clock the evening before, and took no share ui tht- vigil. Drs. Shrady and Douglas were M\ on the watch, with 550 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. the assistance of Henry, the nurse. At about five o'clock Dr. Douglas walked up to the lawn in front of the hotel and stood for a few moments admiring the beautiful sun- rise that was bringing out into sharp relief the peaks and shoulders of the distant eastern hills. He soon joined Dr. Shrady again. Dr. Newman came up to the hotel also about half an hour after, and remained ten or fifteen minutes. He said the General was dying by inches, just as Dr. Dousflas had said a few minutes before. Dr. New- man then returned and paced slowly up and down before the cottage for half an hour, while Drs. Douglas and Shrady sat on the veranda. Henry was in the sick room, never taking his eyes off the dying man. Occasionally he applied to the General's lips a cambric wet with cool water, as had been done at intervals durins; the niiiht. The lips moved in response to the touch, but it was only mechanical. " The doctors were seated on the porch at 7.45, when Henry, the nurse, came out and summoned them to the bedside of the dying man. All the family were in the room at the time, excepting the grandchildren, who were asleep in the nursery. Mrs. Grant was by the General's side, looking; into his face. Mrs. Sartoris was immedi- ately behind her mother, looking over her shoulder. Colonel Fred Grant was at the head of the bed. " On the opposite side of the bed from his mother, and directly before her, stood Jesse Grant and U. S. Grant, Jr., and near the corner of the cot, on the same side as Jesse, and near to each, was Mr. N. E. Dawson, the Gen- eral's confidential secretary. At the foot of the bed, and gazing directly down into the Genenil's fice, were Mrs. Fred Grant, Mrs. U. S. Grant, Jr., and Mrs. Jesse Grant, while somewhat removed from the family circle were Henry, the nurse, and Harrison Tyrrel, the General's body SICKNESS AND DEATH. r^l servant. Dr. Newman had gone to the hotel to hn-ak- fiist, and was not present. Mrs. Grant controlled Iins.lf remark abl3^ "The doctors noted that already the purplish tin,ize whicii is a signal of final dissolution had settled beneath the patient's finger nails. The hand that Dr. Douglas lifted was fast growing cold. The pulse had llutteretl heyond the point where the physician could distinguish it from the pulse beats in his own finger tips. The respii-ation was very rapid, but so weak that its painful sound was gone, and it was scarcely audible at all. " Mrs. Grant almost constantly stroked the face, forehead, and hands of the dying General, and at times pressed both his hands, and, leaning forward, kissed his face. "Thus twenty minutes or so passed, the General lying with his eyes closed. Mrs. Sartoris eagerly sought to bo recognized by her dying father. At last he opened his eyes and they met those of his daughter. Hers was the last face he saw. In a moment more the tense and weary look went out of his face, his eyes closed, and with one faint breath his life left him. The watchers waited for another breath in a silence so complete that the singing of the birds outside the cottage sounded loud and clear. The doctors in a low voice announced that the end had come, and they withdrew. The nurse closed down the dead man's eyelids, and the family group pressed to the bedside, one after the other, and touched their li[)s u[>on the quiet face." Being dead, let us think an instant of the man and his career. Colonel McClure, the editor of the Philadelphia Times, and the man who, with Andrew Curtin, led the Liberal Republican movement in Pennsylvania in IS « 2, thus ably sums him up : "Ulysses S. Grant is dead. 35 .r,2 LIFE OF GENEKAL GRANT. " The shadows of his distressing malady were visible on every side, as they called up the echoes of the universal sorrow of his countrymen; and in the lands of strangers. of every civilization and clime there were sincere re- sponses of sympatliy and homage as the light of his great life flickered fitfully in the socket, lie had fullv outlived the asperities which distinction provokes, and the errors of his own career, the common inheritance of even the wisest, had been as freely forgotten by the world as they had been frankly regretted by himself While eminent usefulness could have resulted for yet many j-ears from such a life, so ripened in honors and experience, his great work was accomplished and he left nothing unfinished ; and the profound devotion of the nation that noted with ceaseless anxiety the ebb and flow of the life currents in the battle with disease, sorrowed as it saw the end at hand, and yet sorrowfully welcomed the end when it came. It was the only relief from the terrible malady that mingled no ray of hope with its fearful agonies, and death was peace, " In all the more than century of American greatness, no man has more impressed his individuality upon the country and the world than has General Grant. AYa'sh- ington was wiser than Grant; Jefierson was vastly abler and more philosophical; Jackson was more despotic and 3'et more the man of sentiment; Lincoln was more saga- cious, more patient and more tolerant, and Garfield was more scholarlj^ and broader in statesmanship; but no one man of our history so distinctively emphasized his indi- viduality in war and in peace, in the field and in states- manship, as did General Grant. He had none of the ornate characteristics of Clay ; none of the ostentation of Scott ; none of the impetuous qualities of Sherman. What he was, he was of himself and by himself; a self SICKXESS AND DEATIL creation whoso history puzzles the reckoning of the world imcl makes romance pale before it. Tlic thoughtless would scan the surface of his record, from the multiplied ill- fortune of early life to the highest stepping in the round of fame, and call it accident; but accidents buih] no such structures of imperishable renown. "A new and supreme occasion came npon the Tiepublic a quarter of a century ago, and it presented new and entirely exceptional duties. The country turned to those who had gathered its greenest chaplets in heroism and trusted them ; but one by one they fell by the wayside in attempting the full measure of their calling. The Chieftain of two wars, the acknowledged Captain of the Age, was dw\arfed into pitiable failure, and the fame of Scott was dimmed in its long-unrivalled lustre by the sad story of Manassas. McClellan came as the heralded Young Napoleon, and the country gave him unbounded trust and homage ; but his star flxded in bitter parti^nm strife on the Peninsula, and he redeemed at Antietam the disgraceful bombast and failure of Pope, without making himself the master that only an indispensable leader could achieve. Ilalleck, esteemed the ablest soldier of the land, the trained strategist and standard authority in the science of war, rose over McClellan only to fade out in forgetful- ness. The Army of the Potomac, justly pronounced by one of its commanders 'the finest on the phuiet.' worshij)- ped chieftain after chieftain, but the names of McDowell, McClellan, Pope, Burnside and Iloolver repeated the same lesson of disappointment, and even the historic field ol Gettysburg, althouo-h the death-blow of rebellion, liiiled I to grasp the sceptre of supreme connnand for its victor. "It was after these bitter pages had been written in the history of the war that the country turned to one who had escaped partisan complications by golden silence, and 554 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. who bad fought and fought; who even when blunderinol fought again, and when defeated fought with greater des^ peration. He had wooed ficl^le fortune in multipHed faili! ures, and until fortj winters had fled with the vigor oft his youth, he had no past that ranked him above the com-i nion of the commonplace of his callings, either as soldier or civilian. He was the cheaply-employed assistant in a Galena tannery when rebellion sounded the call to fraternal' conflict. He njarched to the capital of his State at the head of a company of volunteers, was long denied his' coveted colonelcy, and in four brief years he coinmanded more men, fought more battles and won more decisive victories than any warrior of modern history. His first! failure at Belmont caused no surprise, but as he electrified i the country by the victories of Fort Donelson, Fort Henry, and Nashville, his name and his stubborn qualities and tireless energies as a commander won him the enthusiastic homage of the people. Shiloh clouded his fiime for a i season, and but for his one distinguisliing characteristic as a persistent and never-whipped fighter, Shiloh would have been to Grant what Manassas was to McDowell, the Pen- insula to McClellan, the second Manassas to Pope, Fred- ericksburg to Burnside and Chancellorsville to Plooker. 'I cannot spare this man ; he fights,' was the answer of Abraham Lincoln when the people, the press and Congress ■ clamored for his dismissal after Shiloh, and that one quality made him the man for the new occasion and the new duties that had broken a score of embryo chieftains on the wheel of cruel fate, " The stubborn struggle for Vicksburg ; the heroic strategy of the whirl through Jackson to make the surer investment of the city ; its capture on the natal day of the Republic that also recorded the memorable retreat of Lee from Gettysburg, and the later conflict of Lookout SICKNESS AND DEATH. .V>-j [Mountain fought abov^e the clouds, made the hleedin;.' and sorrowing nation turn to General Grant as with one voice to be its leader of leaders, and he obeyed the call to hi.i'ki' the thrilling history of the Wilderness and the battles ou ithe James. ' I propose to move innnediately uj)on y-,0 venienced. Besides, the old soldiers at the lioino woidd form a perpetual guard of honor over the remains of tlieir old commander. The Lieutenant-General, in the name of the Tomniis- sioners, was at that time authorized to address a letter to Mrs. Grant, tendering a site within their grounds. This letter was sent to General Badeau, who was to delivi-r it to Mrs. Grant after the General's death. The tem|i.>r:irv convalescence of the General led to the retiu'n of the let- ter to General Sheridan for change of date. T\\o latter left the letter with his aide, Colonel G. W. Davis, with the necessary directions. The letter was sent to Mrs. (!raut on the day the General died. General Sheridan also prepared a memorandum, which he left with his aide, suo;gestin2: the form of ceremonial, and that General Hancock be placed in charge. This memorandum was submitted by Adjutant-General Drum for the use of the President. A prominent officer, speak- ing on the place of burial, said : "The Soldiers' Home would be a perpetual resting-place. Like Washington, Grant belongs to the country and should be buried where the pilgrims of all ages can visit his tomb, as the}- have for nearly a hundred years the tomb of Washington." On the day of the death, Mayor Grace, of New York, by direction of the Board of Aldermen, sent the foUow- ino; telecrram to the Grant family : "In advance of official action, I am instructed to ten- der to yourself and family the deep sympathy of the Com- mon Council of the municipal authorities of the city of New York in your bereavement. I am also authorized by informal action of the authorities, which will be made official to-morrow% to tender to you a last resting-place for the remains of General Grant in any one of the p:irks of this city which you may select. I am also authorized to 560 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. offer the Governor's room at the City Hall for the pur- pose of allowuig the body to lie in state." In answer to tiiis offer, Colonel Grant requested a mes- senger to be sent for conference on the subject. Mean- while both Washington and New York as burial-places were strongly urged by various influential parties, inter- ested and disinterested. A messenger from the President visited the family to confer as to details for the funeral. In response to the telegram, the undertaker, Mr. Stephen Merritt, of New York, repaired immediately to Mount McGregor, and personally superintended all ar- rangements pertaining to the remains. Guards of honor from the Grand Army of the Repub- lic, and also from the Regulars at Governor's Island, were promptly sent to the mount and assumed control of the cottage and its surroundings. Immediately following the death President Cleveland issued the following proclamation : The President of the United States has just received the sad tidings of the death of that illustrious citizen and ex-President of the United States, General Ulysses S. Grant, at Mount McGregor, in the State of New York, to which place he had lately been re- moved in the endeavor to })rolong his life. In making this announcement to the people of the United States the President is impressed with the magnitude of the pub- lic loss of a great military leader, who was, in the hour of vic- tory, magnanimous; amid disaster, serene and self-sustained; who, in every station, whether as a soldier or a Chief Magistrate, twice called to power by his fellow-countr^-men, trod unswervingly the pathway of duty, undeterred by doubts, single-minded and straightforward. The entire country has witnessed with deep emotion- his prolonged and patient struggle with painful disease, and has watched by his couch of suffering with tearful sympathy. The destined end has come at last, and his spirit has returned to tlie Creator wlio sent it forth. The great heart of the nation that followed him when living with love and jjride bows now in sor- \ FUNERAL ODSKl^UIES. :.. I row above him dead, tenderly mindful of his virtius, his ;;p :n patriotic services and of the loss occasioned by his (K-atii. In testimony of resi)ect to the memory of General (Iraiit it is ordered that the Executive Mansion and the several d(.-i):irUn»-iit.s at Washington be draped in mourning for a period ul' thirty », and that all public business shall, on the day of the funcrt'.l, he suspended, and the Secretaries of War and of the Navy will cause orders to be issued for appropriate njilitary ami naval honors to be rendered on that day. In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed. Done at the city c»r Washington this twenty-third day of July, one thousand ei;:ht hundred and eighty-five, and of the independence of the United States one hundred and ten. Ghoveu Ci.lvki.a.M). B}^ the President : T. F. Bayard, Sccretarij uj >>lnU\ By order of Lieuteiiant-General Sheridan, Adjtitaut- General Drum issued the following order : In compliance with the instructions of the President, on tl.o day of the funeral, at each military post, the troops and ca sequies. At Albany the ladies would be transferred to another special train, in which they would be taken to New York, the funeral train waiting in Albany until Wednesday afternoon to continue the journey witli the remains to New York. For the obsequies at Albany it was settled in a confer- ence between Governor Hill and Colonel Jones that the more impressive open court of the capitol be abandoned as the place where General Grant's remains would lie in state and the executive chamber substituted. Tiu^ furni- ture would all be removed and the chandelier taken from the centre of the ceiling. The catafalque would l)e set in the centre of the large apartment. The design wa.s for a handsome canopy of black supported by four pillars. This would be ten feet in height, and woidd be lighted with electric lights placed in the vault. The iq)rigl.t.s would be trimmed with American flags in festoons. The catafalque would be nine feet wide ans. This was arrancred so that children could view the features. The walls would be decked with the battle-Oags of 576 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. New York regiments, now deposited in the capitol, and the catafalque with flowers from the hothouses of the ex- ecutive mansion. On the arrival of the remains there a salute of thirty-eight guns would be fired and the body placed on a funeral car. On a wide platform of black would be a pedestal to place the casket upon. About it would be a canopy of black supported by four pillars twined with silk flags. This would be drawn by four or six white or black horses. Arriving at the capitol, the Brooklj'n Grand Army Post would convey the casket through the State street doorway, up the senate staircase and into the executive chamber, depositing it on the catafalque. About one hundred military and civic bodies had already announced their intention to take part in the ceremonies there. The funeral procession, under com- mand of General Hancock and mounted staff, would pro- ceed through several of the principal streets before reaching the capitol. Meanwhile General Hancock and a corps of officials were enoaGfed from seven o'clock in the mornimi: until eleven or twelve at night at the head-quarters on Governor's Island, preparing for the funeral parade. Letters and despatches were received from every portion of the country for places in the line. Adjutant-General Snowden, of General Han- cock's staff, said that the only trouble was to keep the appli- cations within such bounds as would permit of the services being held within one day. The commander of the Grand Army alone said he could furnish 10,000 men, and if this were done there would, with the State and national troops, be a far greater mass of men at hand than could be handled in a reasonable time. On Colonel Grant's arrival at Mount McGregor a family conference was held, and its conclusion was given to the world in the following despatches : FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. 677 Mount McfiitKcou, Jh},j 2K/A. W. R. Grace: Mother takes Riverside. Teniponiry tomb ha.l better be at the same place. F. I). (iitA.NT. Mount McGuF.r.ou, July -l^th. General R. McFeely, Washington, D. C: Mother to-day ac- cepted Riverside Park. She wishes me to tlumk you fur the tender of the Soldiers' Home. F. I). Gijant. On the same train with Colonel Grant came a d»'tach- ment of regular troops. They brought tlieir tent.s and all camp accoutrements and wore the uniiorm of the regular army. There were thirty-eight men in all. The com- mandant was Major Brown, with Lieutenant.s Wood and Barr. The detail was made up from Company K of tiie Twelfth Infantry, located at Fort Niagara, thirty-.^evon miles from Buffalo. The men were formed in line, under arms, at the little mountain depot and marched up the path General Grant attempted to climb to the cottage just six weeks ago, through the grove in front of the cottage and up the slope to a ridge covered witii pine trees and beeches. The spot where a halt was made is beneath the trees near the Ea.stern Outlook, and here the white tents were pitched, and about the cottage where the dead commander lay was a scene of bivouac and camp life, with veterans and regulars side by side. Colonel Roger Jones, to whom all the military here were ordered to report, came with the regulars and assumed control and direction, under orders from General Hancock. >ix hundred or seven hundred troops had been ordered to Saratoga to meet the remains of General Grant on their arrival" from the mountain. A battery of artillery had been ordered there also, that salutes might be find durmg the transfer of the body from the mountain tram to the funeral train on the tracks of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's road. 578 LIFE OF GENEEAL GRANT. Immediately on the receipt of Colonel Grant's final telegram the New York Board of Aldermen convened and took the following action : Whereas, The family of General U. S. Grant have accepted the offer of the corporation of the city of New York for sepulture in one of the public parks of the city, and have selected a site in Riverside Park for that purpose; be it therefore Resolved, That the right of sei3ulture in said Riverside Park be and is hereb}^ given to General U. S. Grant and his wife upon her demise; and be it further Resolved, That a proper deed of cession for the purpose desig- nated be prepared by the counsel to the corporation when the exact locality and dimensions of the ground are fixed, and the said deed be duly executed by the city authorities. Something more about this resting-place of the great General should be tohl. Riverside Park is a narrow and irregular strip of land lying between Riverside avenue and the Hudson river, from Seventy-second street to One-hundred-and-thirtieth street. Between the western limit and the river, however, passes the road-bed of the Hudson River Railway. The general width of the park is about five hundred feet, while its entire length is some three miles, the area being about one hundred and seventy- eight acres, only a portion of which has been laid out in walks and drives, while the rest still retains the wild picturesqueness of nature. The surroundings of this park are so lovely that it is believed it will ultimately become the most aristocratic residence region of New York. The ground rises to a bold bluff above the Hudson river and the views from the river drive-way are very charming, giving glimpses of the undulating, tree-covered park, the shining stretches of the river dimpled into innumerable wavelets and the Weehawken heights opposite. The drives of Riverside PUXERAL OBSK( >ri r-:s. 670 begin at Seventy-second street and cxt.-iid tliiv.. uiWon to One-liundivd-and-twenty-ninth street. Tliciv are wv- eral of these drives curving gracefully along tli.- bank of the Hudson, in some places three hundred feet above the water. The baidv slopes gradually to tin.' shore and tho intervening space between the drives and the river is filled with groves of tall trees. Little has yet been done to inipi-ove this purk, which in its primitive state is a favorite resort for pienie parties and promenades of people living in the western portion of the city. The drives are broad, level and macadamized so as to be smooth as a floor. A heavy stone parai>et runs along the brink of the hill, with recesses for seat.**, passages and steps down into the groves along the river bank. Workmen are now engaged in the improvement of the park. At the Seventy-second street entrance is a handsome bronze statue of Washington, which wa.s sulx- scribed for largely by the public school children of New York and was unveiled by them last year on the Fourtii of July. The hills continue to rise in an easy grade to One-hundred-and-twenty-fifth street, and at One-lnni- dred-and-twenty-ninth street a deep cut separates them from the range known as Washington Heights, on the northern end of Manhattan Island. At One-hundred-and-twenty-fifth street, the highest point, is what used to bo known as the Clareinont Hou.se. It was built by Lord Courtney, an eccentric Knglishman, before the Revolution, and was occupied by Ijim for many ye^rs. It is at this point that the burial site lias been fixed. The monument, when erected, can be seen for a long distance. In a letter that Mayor Grace sent to Colonel Grant suggesting Riverside Park as the best place for the Gen- erS's tom^b the writer made the following points in favor 580 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. of that site : " Because of the peculiar beauty of the place in its location on the river and the fact that a monument in it would be visible far and wide. It w^ould give a dis- tinct characteristic to this quiet and beautiful park, and such a monument as would probably be erected there would vie in beauty and fitness of location with the famous statue of Germania on the Rhine. The entire park would become peculiarly, in a sense that Central Park never can become, sacred and devoted to the memory of your father. The park is so young that the character of its development would be largely determined and its whole future dominated by this fact. Tlie monument ■would be visible from two States and for miles, both up and down the Hudson river, and would not only borrow from but lend beauty to the noble stream, and at no time could your father's remains be regarded as lying remote from nature. In the heart of a great busy city, in the rush and hurry of the life in which death and its sacred- ness may be forgotten, the remains of even the great dead may be passed in thoughtlessness." Architect Mold, of the Department of Public Parks, at once set about the plans for the temporary vault which is to contain the body of General Grant until the erection of a permanent tomb. It is to be made entirely of brick. Within it will measure twelve by seven feet. It will be four feet under ground and will be surmounted by a barrel arch, w^ith two rims of brick. In front rises a cross. A large iron door will give access to the plain cemented interior. On each side will be four cross-shaped openings for ventilation. The front will face the river. The vault will be seen as far up the river as Haverstraw. At 5.15 on the afternoon of Wednesday, July 20th, a train of three cars, pulled by one engine and pushed by another, hauled into and stopped at the depot on Mount FUNERAL OBSE(>UIES. 5g] McGregor. From the rear alighted thu'ty-oight nu'ii of Battery A, Fifth Artillery. They had been sent l)y (\vn- eral Hancock from Governor's Island to form i)arL of tljc guard about the cottage. The car next the engine was the observation car, in which the remains of General Grant will be borne to Saratoga. From this car stepped Under- taker Merritt, his son, and a representative of the linn that made the casket in which General Grant is to be in- terred. The casket was then removed from the car and placed on a light lumber wagon and taken to the south steps of the cottage. The casket, in its heavy oaken shipping box, was carried up the steps and into the rear parlor of the cottage, which is divided from the room in which the dead General lay by heavy curtain.^. The heavy nickel-bound box was opened and the casket removed and borne into the uext room, where it was ,placed beside the remains. Undertakers Ilarrigan, of Albany; Sullivan, of New York, and C. E. Bonnison. of Boston, the two latter being the embalmers. then attended to the practical details of transferring the remains to tiie final receptacle. The New York undertakers. Harrison, the General's servant, and Henry, the nurse, were present. It was found that the hardening process that results from embalming had begun, and the embalmers expres.sed the belief, established by precedent, that the body would re- main in its present condition, without change, for at least six months. Harrison was permitted to aid in the fmal preparation of the remains as far as possible. A suit of black broadcloth was placed upon the re- mains, the coat being a Prince Albert. A white hnen standing collar circled the neck and a black sdk scarf tied in a plain bow at the throat. The tie was arranged by Harrison, and he also adjusted a pair of low-cut patent leather slippers on the dead General's feet when they had 582 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. been encased ia white stockings. The act of tying the silk bows of the slippers was the last personal service Harrison did for his late master. Gold studs were fixed in the shirt front and plain gold buttons in the cuffs. AVhen the remains had been finally attired and placed within the casket, the double-breasted Prince Albert coat was buttoned closely from top to bottom. The right hand was folded across the breast, and the left hand was dis- posed in an easy position by the side. Colonel Fred Grant at this point entered the apartment. He approached the casket where it rested beneath the black-draped canopy, and. leaning above it some moments, studied the face of his fixther in silence. Then, taking in his own the right hand of the General, Colonel Grant placed upon the third finger a plain gold ring and then replaced upon the breast the still, thin hand. Before turning away, the colonel drew forth a small packet of mementos and placed them in the breast-pocket of the coat. Having performed these last direct personal offices, Colonel Grant retired, and those in charge dropped the heavy plate-glass top of the casket in place and the casket was sealed by the turning down of sixty screws that press the glass down into its fitting and render the casket air- tight. And so the General's remains lay covered with an American flag. An incandescent lamp shed a mellow light about the heavy canopy, and the flag-covered casket beneath was in shadow and rest until the day of removal. While the body lay in the casket at the cottage, many visitors were admitted to gaze upon the remains. The family, too, enjoyed the sad privilege frequently. With each day's train from Saratoga came many to avail them- selves of this opportunity. So the days passed until Tuesday, August 4th, the day set for the commencement of the funeral obsequies. FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. 681 The first train up left Saratoga at six o'clock, liaving among other passengers the Rev, Bisliop Harris, of tlio Methodist Episcopal Church, and Rev. J. E. C. Sawyer, of Troy. Generals Horace Porter and Fred T. Dent, Senor Romero and Mrs. M. J. Cramer had arrived tiie ~'"-^-: #" ^f^H^^^j; REV. J. P. NEWMAN, D. D. night before. The second train brought up General Han- cock and party. He was accompanied by his stall, as he had been the day before, and with them came Gent-rul Sherman, Vice- Admiral Rowan, Senator Evarts, SenaK.r Warner Miller, Mrs. Drexel and three guests of Mi's, 37 584 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Drexel. Tliej- went directly to the cottage and paid their respects to the family. The services, conducted at the open door so that the speaker could be heard by those within and without, be- gan by the reading of the 90th Psalm; prayer by Bishop Harris ; singing " My Faith Looks up to Thee," led by a chorister and joined in by the audience ; address by Rev. Dr. J. P. Newman ; reading of Scriptures and final prayer. The address was very full and elaborate. Dr. Newman took as his text Matthew xxv. 21 : " Well done, thou good and faithful servant, enter thou into the joy of thy Lord." He began by saying : " Such, my brethren, is the eulogy that God shall pro- nounce upon human goodness and fidelity wherever found among the sons of men. The accidental distinction be- tween prince and peasant, millionaire and pfvuper, com- manding general and private soldier, are but as the dust in the balance in His estimation of personal worth ; He regards not the person of any man ; He looks upon the heart. '• Tell me not what a man possesses — the beauty of Ab- salom, the glory of Solomon, the wealth of Dives, the elo- quence of ApoUos, the learning of Paul, but rather tell me what he is, in his modes of thought, in his emotional being, in the trend of his passions, in the temper of his mind, in the tenor of his life, out of which comes the to- tality of his existence and the finality of his destiny. This is the man as he is, and by it let him be judged. Li the intensity of this divine light let us to-day recall the character of the illustrious man whose death a nation so tenderly mourns. " For forty years he was hidden in comparative obscurity, giving no indications of his wondrous capacity; FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. rxi but in those four decades he was luatminij. and at tl:o appointed time God lifted the veil dI' ol.^.-urif \ . rail..! upon hini to save a nation and givr a new din-nit »n to the civilization of the world. How cahn liis jiiduMiu-nt. how clear and quick and accurate his imaginatinn. hnw vast and tenacious his memory! reason was his (loininant faculty. lie was a natural logician. lie could di'scond to the smallest details and rise to the highest gtMicraliza- tions. His wonderful understanding was like the tciit in story; fold it and it was a toy in the hand of a cliiM, spread it and the mighty armies of a republic could roposc in its shade. He could comprehend a continent with greater ease than others could master an island. I'nd'T his vast and comprehensive plans a continent shook with the tramp of advancing armies. As out of some immense mental reservoir there came a fertility of resources di.-*- played in a hundred battles, in the greatest emerg«Micies and in a threefold campaign, carried forward at the same time without confusion, and each the part v( one stupendous whole. "When he rose to supreme connnand, the nation ih^- manded one dominant spirit, mighty to grasp, strong to execute, powerful to inspire. The country was one, the rebellion was one, and the armies of the Union should be one, and the general who could mould, contn»l, in- spire an army of a million strong and make them think, feel and fight as one man was the desire of the Republic. Such a one was he around whose bier a nation weep.s to-day. He fought for the right, to end the war; h.' con- quered a peace. He hated war. He looked upon it ns a ghastly monster whose march is to th<' music <>! tin- widow's sigh and the orphan's cry. He loved p<'a<'e and pursued it. * Blessed are the peace-makers, for they shall be called the children of God,' was his beatitude. 586 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. In his London speech in 1877 he said: ^Although a sol- dier by education and profession, I have never felt any sort of fondness for war, and I have never advocated it except as a means of peace.' This was the energy of his courage. " He would not waste life and treasure to gain advan- tages, while the means were left to the enemy to regain them. He understood the necessity of sacrifice to achieve a greater advantage. He surrendered the less to obtain the greater. He was not indifferent to the preciousness of human life. Did he expose his troops ? He protected them by shortening the time of the war and by the greater vigor of his attacks. His was the arithmetic of blood. Some Quintus Fabius Maximus would have sacrificed a hundred thousand more men and $350,000,000 more treasure by the slowness of his movements and the feeble- ness of his efforts. ' Plow can I save my country and prevent the greater effusion of blood ? ' was his supreme question ; and his supreme answer was : ' By an energy that knows no defeat.' Thus he reasoned ; and to-day the people bless him. " From this better nature and higher mission as a war- rior sprang his conduct toward the vanquished. He had no hatred in his heart. His heart was as tender as a woman's. He was not vindictive. His holy evangel to the nation was, ' Let us have peace.' Hence, toward the close of the war, those who had fought against him saw that there was no safety but in the arms of their con- queror. In his dying chamber he grasped the hand of him whose sword was the first he had won, and said : ' I have witnessed since my sickness just what I wished to see ever since the war, harmony and good feeling between the sections.' On Holy Easter lie sent forth his tender ' I desire the good-will of all, whether hitherto FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. 887 my friends or not.' His was the sung of the angels : 'On earth peace, good-will toward men.' " Life in the camp has proved ruinous to the morals of the greatest of warriors. The excitement of a lif«.' de- voted to arms, the scenes of excess and plunder to which a soldier is exposed, the absence of the restraints of iiume and church, tend to the worst of passions and to the corruption of the best morals. But here in the presence of the dead, whose ears are forever deaf to our praise or censure, let it be our grateful duty to record thai alit-r five years in camp and field he returned to his iion»e without a stain upon his character. Among ancient or modern warriors where shall we find his superior in moral elevation ? Given to no excess himself, he sternly re- buked it in others. He could speak to every one aceoi'd- ing to his station — to generals of their battles, to statesmen of their measures, to travellers of their discoveries, to artisans of their inventions, to Christians of thrir hopes; and he could be the delightful companion of kings and queens, of courtiers and chosen friends. He never took the name of his Creator in vain, and an impure story never polluted his lips. He assured me, as his pastor, that were he disposed to swear he would be compelled to phrase the sentence. "His sense of justice was equalled only by his love of truth. He preferred honor to wealth and poverty to riches not his own. 0, Americans, think of the pride of your nation, the glory of your age and the object of the world's admiration having nothing to bequeatii to those he loved, save his good name, and that heaven admitted to the probate without the whisper of contention. "He loved life and enjoyed it; he loved children and caressed them; he loved his family and found therem his chief delight. He had not taste ibr music, but he had f,88 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT, melody in his heart; he despised pretence and show, but admired the real and beautiful. He was not fond of books, yet by carefulness of observation, by thoroughness of reflection, by attentiveness to the conversation of the well-informed, by extensive travels in many lands, by the daily study of current events, he was the most intelligent citizen in our Republic. He was the most diligent news- paper reader in the land. He was a living encyclopccdia of facts, figures and men, and his forthcoming memoirs will astonish the reader with his accurate estimate of per- sons, the keenness of his observations and the vastnessof his information. " Such a solid, sturdy character becomes our geography and institutions and our destiny. Self-government calls upon the judgment to control the imagination; to ambition to submit to queenly modesty ; to adventure to bow to prudence ; to justice to hold in subjection political wrong; to virtue to dominate every vice; itseems to be with us a national tradition that only men of solid viitues shall be raised to supreme position in our Republic. " ' Our greatest yet with least pretence, Great in council and great in war, Foremost captain of his time, Ilich in saving common-sense, And, as the greatest only are. In his simplicity sublime.' '''As he was the typical American, should we be sur- prised to find that his was the typical American home? May we lift the curtain and look upon the holy privacy of that once unbroken household ? On the mutual and reciprocal love of wedded life within those sacred pre- cincts ? Husband and wife the happy supplement of each other, their characters blending in sweetest harmony liko FUXERAL OBSEQUIES. 000 the blended colors in the bow ol" i.roiiiisc. IK', Htivn-'ili. dioiiitj and courage; she, gentleness, grace and puritw He, the Doric column to sustain; slie, the Curintliian column to beautify. He, the oak to support ; she, ivy lo entwine. In their life of deathless love, their happinoHs lay like an ocean of pearls and diamonds in the cui brace of the future. He, unhappy without her presence; siie, desolate without his society. She, pure, high-niindi-d, discriminating, ardent, loving, intelligent- he confided to her his innermost soul and blessed her with his U-A and unfailing love. She shared his trials and his triuini)hs; his sorrows and his joys ; his toils and his rewards. How tender was that scene, in the early dawn of that April day, when all thought the long-expected end had come, he gave her his watch and tenderly caressed her hand. It was all the great soldier had to give to the wife of his youth. And the dying hero whispered : • I did not have you wait upon me, because I knew it would distress you ; but now the end draws nigh.' And out from the ' swell- inirs of Jordan ' he rushed back to the shore of life to write this tender message to his son: ^ Vriierever I am buried, promise me that your mother shall be buried by my side.' It is all a wife could ask; it is all a husband could wi.sh. '' ' Lovely and pleasant in their lives, and in their death they shall not be divided.' " Side by side they shall sleep in the same tomb, and she shall share with him whatever homage future ages shall pay at his national shrine. '•And how tender was his care. He thought not of himself, but of her. To his son he said : ' I hoi^e mother will bear up bravely.' To quiet her anxiety he wrote : 'Do as I do ; take i't quietly. I give myself not the lea.«t concern. If I knew the end was to be to moirow, I would oeo LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. try just as hard to get rest in the meantime.' Would she keep holy vigils through the livelong night? He wrote: 'Go to sleep and feel happy; that is what I want to do, and am going to try for. I am happy when out of pain. Consider how happy you ought to be. Good-night!' '•And such was the tenderness of his love and solicitude for her and hers, he surprised her by a letter found after his death. It came as a message to her from him after he had gone. When his spirit had returned to the God who gave it there was found secreted in his robe his last letter to her, enveloped, sealed and addressed. He had written it betimes — written it secretly — and carried the sacred missive day after day during the fourteen days, knowing that she would find it at last. In it he poured forth his soul in love for her and solicitude for their chil- dren : " ' Look after our dear children and direct them in the paths of rectitude. It would distress me far more to think that one of them could depart from an honorable, upright and virtuous life than it would to know that they were prostrated on a bed of sickness from which they were never to arise alive. They have never given us any cause for alarm on their account, and I earnestly pray they never will. With these few injunctions and the knowledge I have of your love and affection, and of the dutiful affection of all our children, I bid you a final farewell until we meet in another and>, I trust, a better world. Yoii will find this on my person after my demise.' "And who should marvel that in a home of such parentage parental love and filial affection should reign supreme ? *•' If such was his character, such his home, what were the consolations which sustained him in sickness and cheered him in death ? Reared in the Methodist Episco- FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. mi • pal Church, and baptized in liis last ilhioss l)v oik' (»r her ministers, his religious nature was sincere, cahn and stead- fast. The principles of Christianity were deeplv en- grafted upon his spirit. Firm, but never demonstrative, he was not a man of religious pretence. His hfc was liis profession. He knew that Christianity had nothing to gain from him beyond the influence of a ' well-ordored life and a godly conversation,' but tliat ho liad everything to gain from the power and promises of our Lord. .'^lore than in all things else he was taciturn touching his re- ligious faith and experience — not, however, from doubt and fear, but from mental characteristics. The keenest, closest, broadest of all observers, he was the most silent of men. He lived within himself His thouglit-life wa.s most intense. His memory and imagination were picture- galleries of the world and libraries of treasured tiiouglit. He was a world to himself Plis most intimate friends knew him only in part. He was fully and best known only to the wife of his bosom and the children of his loins. To them the man of iron will and nerve of steel was gentle, tender and confiding, and to them he un- folded his beautiful religious life. "On the 18th of April he said to me: 'I bcli.'ve in the holy Scriptures, and whoso lives by them will be benefited thereby. Men may diffl-r as to the intei-prc- tation, which is human, but the Scriptures are man's best guide.' He revered their source, recognized their influence, responded to their requisitions, trusted ni their promises and found consolation in their hopes. His laith in God as the Sovereign Ruler and the Father Almighty was as simple as a child's and niigiity as a propht-l s. "And where in the annals of the church shall we find a dying hour so full of divine repose? His calm faith in a future state was undisturbed by anxious doubt. Un 592 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. suffering and wasted body was but the casket for the resplendent jewel of his soul, and when death ruthlessly broke that precious casket an angel carried the jewel to the skies to lay it at the Saviour's feet. In the early light of April 1st, when all thought the end was come, the suf- ferer said to me : ' Doctor, I am going.' " ' I hope the prospect of the future is clear and bright,' was my response, and the answer came : ' Yes; oh, yes!' Then followed a scene of infinite tenderness. The hon- ored wife, the precious daughter, the devoted sons and their wives, each in turn approaclied, and he tenderly kissed them. ' Do you know me, darling?' was the lov- ing wife's inquirj^, and he whispered back : ' Certainly I do, and bless you all in my heart.' " Such love melted the marble heart of death, and the ' King of Terrors' fled affrighted. The sufferer revived. Heaven added months to a life so dear to us all. When he had recovered sufficiently I asked him : ' What was the supreme thought on your mind when Eternity seemed so near?' " ' The comfort of the consciousness that I had tried to live a good and honorable life,' was the response, which revealed the hidden life of his soul. Again the angel of death cast his shadow over the one a nation loved. Amid the gathering gloom I said : ' You have many awaiting you on the other side.' " ' I wish they would come and not linger long,' was the answer of his Christian faith and hope. "They came at last. They came to greet him with the kiss of immortality. They came to escort the conqueror over the 'last enemv' to a coronation never seen on thrones of earthly power and glory. Who came ? His martyred friend, Lincoln ? His companion in arms, McPherson ? His faithful chief of staff, Rawlins ? His FUNERAL OBSEQUIKS. MS great predecessor in oain[) and cahinct. WashinL'ton ? And did not all who have died lor liberty eoiui'".' O calm, brave, heroic soul, sing thou the song of Christiuii triumph ; ' death, where is thy sting? grave, where is thy victory? Thanks be to (loil. which -^Ivelh us the victory, through Jesus Christ, our Lord." '• And that victory w^as at hand. From his vii-w on Monday at the eastern outlook he was to ascend to U-hold a grander vision. Tuesday came and went. Niuiit drew on apace and death seemed innninent. Around his chair we knelt in prayer for some divine manifestation of com- fort. Our prayer was heard. The sufferer revived. Again he wrote messages of love and wisdom. The night wore away. Wednesday dawned on hill and dale. Hoikj revived. Ilis intellect was clear and his consciousness was supreme. Again he wrote, and again he whispered the wishes of his heart. " As came the eventide, so came his last night. Frotn out of that chair wherein he had sat and sulTered, and wrote and prayed, tenderly he was carried to that coucli from which he was never to rise. Around him we gatli- ered and bowed in prayer to commend his departing spirit to the mercy of Him who gave it. He answered in monosyllables to questions for his comfort. The braiu was the last to die. All were watchers on that memor- able night. Recognitions were exchanged. A peacelu death and consciousness to the last breath were grant.^1 unto him. The last night had passed. " 'Tis morning. The stars have melted into the coming licht. The rosy-fingered morn lifts the drapery of the nic^ht. The distant mountains stand forth aglow. he soft, pure light of dawn covers earth and sky. 1 - dew-drop sparkles on the grass and m the <^-.- "l ' The birds from their sylvan coverts carol the melodv of 594 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. a thousand songs. The world rejoices, and its many minstrels challenge the harpers of the sky. In a humble cottage, prone upon his couch, lies ' our old commander.' He is dying ! ''Tis morning, and in the light of that day thousands of earnest faces flush with renewed concern. From many a shaded lane and mountain slope, from many a farm- house and splendid mansion, eager eyes look toward the mount of suffering and breathe a prayer to God for the one we loved. Alas ! he is dead. "'Tis morning. It is the promise of a brighter day. The trumpeters of the sky are sounding the reveUle. Their notes have reached the earth. Their notes have reached our General's ear. He has gone to join the triumphant host. 'Tis morning in Heaven ! " At the conclusion of the services arrangements for the removal of the remains were promptly made. Two buglers playing the "Dead March" preceded Company A, of the Fifth, after whom marched Under- taker Merritt. Then came, two by two, Dr. Newman and Bishop Harris and Drs. Douglas and Agnew. The rich velvet of the heavy casket gleamed and the polished silver glittered in the bright sunshine, as it was borne by twelve"" members of U. S. Grant Post of Brooklyn— Col- onel W. H. Barker, Major B. R. Corwin, Dr. George W. Brush, Reese B. Twillem, J. P. Howatt, Commander John H. Johnson, Henry W. Knight, R. F. Mackellar, George J. Collins, Noah Tibbetts and George B. Squires. The sons, Colonel Fred, Ulysses, and Jesse, followed the coffin, and General Sherman came as a friend of the family, without attention to his military rank. General Hancock followed with Admiral Rowan; Admiral Timo- thy H. Stevens with General Rufus Ingalls ; the staff officers; Senators Evarts and Miller; M. J. Cramer, ex- FUNERAL OBSEQUIES AM minister to Denmark; Mrs. Corbin, a sister of General Grant; U. S. Grant, second son of Orville Grant; Pay- master Sliarpe, U. S. A., and wife, Mrs. Grant's sisti-r; ex-Postmaster-General Creswell and wile; e.\-Si,"crctarv of State Hamilton Fish; General Horace Porter, and others. The escort drew up in line. The casket was canii-d into the centre of the observation car, the outside of wliicli was entirely covered with bhick cloth. The engine, the '•J. W. Drexel," was also hung with black cambric. The escort filed in, the rest of the party followed, and tiie train started promptly on time, nothing having occurn'il to cause any change of the carefully-arranged i)rogrannne. The train proceeded slowly down the mountain, and it was 1.48 p. M. when its arrival at Saratoga was an- nounced by the firing of a gun by a detail sent from tin- Watervliet Arsenal at Troy. The funeral train of the New York Central was in waiting. Every one of the nine cars was completely covered with black, leaving not an inch of the woodwork above the wheels visible. After the baggage car came the funeral car of the road, the *' Woodlawn," with «'very provision for the casket and the guard. The rest of the train was occupied by the party in the same order as down the mountain, with the exception that the guard was placed in the rear car. Three or four thousand people witnessed the transfer. Members (.f Wht'.-lrr Post presented arms as the train slowly moved tlin.unh their line, while a company of the Twenty-second regi- ment was posted a few paces oil' on the other side of tlie track. The train moved slowly through the town. an^ta^' to mount horses strange to them and go to the head of the line. The procession was pronounced by all the fniest tiiat liad ever been seen in this city. It was strong in nuinlx'i-s, brilliant in its personnel, and impressive in movt'inent. General Hancock, with his stafi', at the hrad, followed immediately by Major-General Joini G. Farns worth, tlie chief marshal, and his aides, and then Major-General Joseph B. Carr, connnanding the First Division of the National Guard, with his full staff, made a most imposing appearance, all being well mounted and equipi)ed with uniforms glittering with gold braid. The funeral car wa.s thirteen feet in height, and through its sides the gorgeous casket could be plainly seen, even by those pressed so f ir back on the sidewalks that they could see oidy the head-3 of the marching column. The body-guard marcln-d in double file on either side, followed by the Senate and House of Assembly. At 5.30 the capitol was reached, and in perfect order every movement was made until the casket was in plaox; and the features of the hero were ready for obsi-rvation. During the first four hours it is estimated that 27.IH>0 persons viewed the remains. Shortly after i-k-vcn <> clock A. M., on Wednesday, August oth, the funeral proiv.sMon was reformed in Albany, and the march was taken up to the New York Central Depot amid the booming of cann.)n and through densely-packed streets. The casket was placed in the funeral car, and the train started at pre- cisely 12.30 o'clock to carry General Grant on his last journey. On the roofs of the houses in the vicnuty 598 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. hundreds witnessed the start, and as the black trahi rumbled across the long bridge of the Hudson, it was be- tween two dense lines of people who filled the footpaths on either side. There was no clang of bell, no scream of whistle — only the dull rumble of the wheels beneath the memorable train. Across the river were crowds of people. The shops and stores and factories had closed their doors to business. All who work and those of leisure seemed to have come out to stand with uncovered heads to be part of a scene never again to be enacted. The long, sweeping curve was rounded, and the black train straight- ened out level with the Hudson on its way to the me- tropolis. On down the splendid river that sparkled in the sun- light the train rumbled at twenty miles an hour. At every rural road-crossing groups of plain, sad-faced people stood and watched. Hudson's iron furnaces sent up black columns of smoke ahead in the distance. Hudson then came closer and was reached at 1.27 p. m., just fifty- seven minutes from the start. It, too, paid its respects to the passing dead, with hundreds of persons at the sta- tion, which was draped with mourning, and the report of a gun was heard somewhere back on the hills. The Catskills w^ere whirling nearer and nearer as the train rolled onward. The ^jurple sliadows under the brow of the mountains to which the illustrious dead had thought to journey this very month were deepening as the clouds sailed higher into the blue sky. Away across the river, on the foothills of the Catskills, a hotel, heavy with flags and dense with forms of people, grew into view. . The station of Catskill w\as just ahead. A gun boomed a salute and a white puff of smoke floated out over the river. There were many people along the tracks on either side. The little station with mourning tokens FUNERAL OBSEC^UIKS. SB hurried by ; the speed was increasing, but the long, dark train swept around curves and over levels steadily and smoothly. Out on the river there were many little'lxialM and launches and some yachts with ensiirns tipjR'd with black. Each bore people with heads uncovered, and all these tokens of respect were not unheeded by the mourniTH of the dead, while most of the time they sat in .silence with their eyes upon the river and the mountain p<-ak.s beyond. Poughkeepsie was coming in view around the curven, where the little pilot engine occasionally could \xi seen with its ten minutes' headway. Rhinobeck had gone bv at 2.13 p. M., Staattsburg at 2.22 i>. m., Hyde Park at \iM P. M., and when the train rolled through the throngs at Poughkeepsie the dial marked 2.45 p. m., and the funeral train was on time. A little later, as Newburg was passed, the nionii tains westward were enveloped by clouds tiiat poun-d ijdwn rain. At Fishkill, which was passed on time at .').l I. a black-bordered banner was seen near tlte tracks, and u|m.l it the words: ''The great Captain is dead." Just in the shadows of the old Storm King, at Cornwall, a steandxjat from New York, loaded with people, was seen following the train. Cold Spring had been passed at o.21. and West Point was only six minute away. Colonel (Jrant. General Porter and other persons in the car took seats on the river side. The river was being ruflled as the train bore down among the highlands, and soon cuiling crests of white foam rode the increasing waves. Filmy .^carfs of mist trailed down the mountain side above We.st Point. Deep reverberations of thunder echoed among the nu.un- tains. The storm had centred directly above the military post, but the river was not yet touched by the rain that had obscured the tops of the mountains and was sweeping down their sides. 3R 600 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. The train rolled on and was passing through the deep cut just north of Garrison's, which is the railway station for West Point. Suddenly the report of a cannon shook the heavy atmosphere. The train's speed lessened grad- ually as it emerged from the cut, and hundreds of people were seen lining the way on either side. Then, at 3.27, the train rolled slowly past the little station at Garrison's, and there was shown the tribute from his old student home to the dead soldier. Along the line of the railway before the station the cadets from West Point were drawn up in line at " present arms." All the officers of the post were near with uncovered heads, and the band from the post, with muffled drums, was playing " Sweet Spirit, hear my Prayer." The strains were not loud, but sub- dued, and they blended with the muttering thunder over the. river, on the mountains, where the storm had swept down to the Hagstaff tip that shot up from the trees, and all the while, at intervals of five seconds, came the sound of a gun. As the little station passed out of sight and the strains from the band had died away, a view across the river disclosed bright Hashes, quick belching of smoke, and then, as soon as sound could travel, the booming sound of another gun smote the ear. The salute was being fired from the river shore at the foot of the bluff which is crowned by the garrison. The funeral train had again quickened speed, but it was overtaken by the storm, which prevailed with much force for ten minutes. Then the clouds broke, the rain ceased and the sunlight was again on the mountains. The Palisades were passed, and at 4.37 the black train swept around the curve and left the Hudson behind. Rain was again falling on the Harlem river. At High Bridge, a splendid vantage ground for observation, there were few people. When the train passed the Atalanta 601 602 LIFE OF GENERAL GRANT. Boat Club's house on the river the flag was dipped. The junction was rounded at 4.48, and the funeral train had made its last curve. Down through Harlem and the tun- nel the heavy train rumbled toward the city. Emerging from the tunnel, the train made a flying switch and rolled on to its stopping point. Slowly it stopped, but at length, as the Grand Central clock dial marked five o'clock, it was still and on time. General Grant's last journey was ended, and from the start there had been no clang of bell nor sound of whistle of the locomotive. The depot had been cleared of all save a dozen or two reporters, a brigade of policemen and the railroad offi- cials, who stood at the lower end of the building awaiting the train's arrival. Overhead, underneath the gilded letters naming the Central Railroad directors, a long bal- cony was filled with ladies and gentlemen, many of the former being clad in the brightest apparel, giving the somewhat sombre scene just the color required. There were ten cars to the funeral train, each completely envel- oped in mourning, the heavy drapings caught up at the windows with black rosettes, the funeral car " Woodlawn'* distinguished by its single broad door and the heavy panels of crape which lined its sides. The party had the station completely to themselves as the long train came to a standstill, and General Horace Porter, wearing a military slouch hat, with a Grand Army badge in the left lappel of his coat, was the first to alight. He was accom- panied by Quartermaster-General Hodges, who had charge of the transportation, and Captain Ward, of General Han- cock's staff*. It was not a moment before the members of the Citizens' Committee of One Hundred, all wearing dark suits, with crape on their arms and black bands about their tall white hats, were pouring out of one of the rear cars and forming in line for the procession. Then Gov- FUNERAL OBSEQUIKS. ^ ernor Hill and his staff, coven-d with ;:old l^rr, tlicir showy uniforms standing out in marked rcli(>f a-aiii^t tlif black train, and the regular army troops, tli(Mr hri-hl. polished rifle barrels shining in tlio weltM.mc snnjijrl.t] filed out upon the platform, while the guard ..f ]„u,„r was busy opening the doors for the egress of tlu- c.niM. There was no occasion for word of command as tlir rich purple casket, with its silver trimmings, was handed out on to the shoulders of the twelve stalwart soldiers await- ing its reception. Every head was mieovcred as, with solemn step, the coffni bearers marched tin-ough the throng down the long lines of policemen and across the long platform to the station doors. The huge black cata- fiilque, with its twelve black horses, stood in Torty-third street just opposite the main entrance. The coffin wjus borne through the long line of troops and placed securely in its position, while the great mass of people whicJi lined the sidewalks back of the well-preserved i)olice lines spontaneously uncovered their heads and waitecl for the procession to start. General Hancock and liis staff gal- loped forward at the headof tlie line; regiment after reg- iment of the National Guard, their arms at reverse and their colors in mourning, fell regularly into lin<', ami. amid the rolling of mufllcd drums and tlie tolling of i>ellrt, the great pageant moved slowly down the aveinie. It was nearly seven o'clock when the head of the pnn cession reached City Hall Square. Then (Icneral Il.in- cock, with his gilded staff cantering behind, rode into the plaza and to the front of the City Hall. There he dismounted, his staff saluted and drew up iu line opj)o« o V ^°-;^. 0' ^. , -^ .-^^^ -^^ '-^^ •.<*^* ° 'V/ ■'; M ^. « \ ^ ;^M^^ %,^ -^^ ^-^^ 'Wl V ^w^ v^ .^ V* DOBBSBROS. *<*V ! ^ LIIMAIIT 9INDIM0 - ^ ''ST. AUGUSTINE FLA. / .. \ - ,i ■»"'".' °^ CONGRESS 013 789 25,0 .