Class 
 
 Book ."f 7 ^ 
 


 J 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF AS 
 
 EXPLORING TOUR 
 
 BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 
 
 UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE 
 
 A. B. C, F. M. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, 
 
 PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, 
 
 MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES *. 
 
 WITH A 
 
 MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 BY REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A. M. 
 
 FIFTH EDITION 
 
 AUBURN: 
 
 J • C. DERBY & CO.; 
 
 .I«W- YORK : MARK n. NEWMAN & CO..-GENEVA : G. H. DERBT 8c CO. 
 
 CINCINNATI : DERBY, BRADLEY & CO. 
 
 1846. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
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 '"', ' 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 _£- " 
 
 3 1 
 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 5 
 
 EXPLORING TOUR 
 
 BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 
 
 UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE 
 
 A. B. C. F. M. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, 
 
 PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, 
 
 MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES I 
 
 WITH A. 
 
 MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. 
 
 BY REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A. M. 
 
 FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 AUBURN 
 
 J. C. DERBY & CO.; 
 YORK : MARK n. NEWMAN & CO,— GENEVA : G. H. DERBT & CO. 
 CINCINNATI : DERBY, BRADLEY &, CO. 
 
 1846. 
 
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by 
 Samuel Parker, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the 
 Northern District of New York. 
 
 * ^1^ 
 
 HEKRT OLIPHANT, PRINTER, AUBURN. 
 
I 
 
 z 
 
 Publisher's Note. — It may be well to state that Mr. Parker's Tour 
 through the Oregon Territory, is the only work published by any per- 
 son who has been over the country generally, in all seasons of the year, 
 for the express purpose of learning the physical condition of the coun- 
 try, and the natural and moral state of the Indian inhabitants. 
 
 RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 FROM BENJ. SILLIMAN, LL. D., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY, GEOLOGY, &C., 
 YALE COLLEGE. 
 
 I have perused with much satisfaction and instruction, the Rev. 
 Samuel Parker's Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, and have given 
 copies of it to scientific friends in Europe, on account of the valuable 
 geological facts which it contains. B. SILLIMAN. 
 
 Yale College, Oct. 31st, 1343. 
 
 EXTRACT FROM CHANCELLOR KENT*S COURSE OF READING, FURNISHED AT 
 THE REQUEST OF THE NEW YORK MERCANTILE LIBRARY ASSOCIATION. 
 
 " This is one of the most authentic and interesting accounts we have 
 of the country of Oregon, or waters of the Columbia, and of the charac- 
 ter of the Indian tribes of that savage country. The author brings to 
 the subject all the knowledge, industry, candor, and piety becoming 
 his mission and pretensions." 
 
 FROM H. HUMPHREY, D. D. PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. 
 
 I have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts and 
 many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly instruc- 
 tive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am glad to 
 learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is not a book 
 of lofty pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high intrinsic merit. 
 The friends of the missionary cause, and of the aboriginal tribes beyond 
 the mountains, who have not yet seen this volume, have a rich rever- 
 sion before them. H. HUMPHREY. 
 
IV RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, LL. D., PROFESSOR OF CHE5IISTRY AND 
 NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE. 
 
 I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring 
 Tour of Mr. Parker. EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 
 
 FROM NOAH WEBSTER, LL. D. 
 
 New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839. 
 Dear Sir, — I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky 
 Mountains to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much 
 valuable information respecting a part of our continent, which is im- 
 perfectly explored. I hope the publication of the book will amply re- 
 ward your labors. N. WEBSTER. 
 
 " This is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes rich food alike 
 to the man of science and the unlearned. It is one of the most deeply 
 interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American press ; in- 
 asmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores of know- 
 ledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore has been 
 but partially explored. This is a volume which commends itself to the 
 careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous are its truths, 
 that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction' to gain for it uni- 
 versal circulation." — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati. 
 
 " Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the 
 country through which he passed, are alone richly worth twice the cost 
 of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work is 
 a noble weapon ; to the advocate of Foreign Missions an unanswerable 
 evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new Map 
 from actual observation of the territoiy of the United States west of the 
 limits of Missouri. — New Yorker, May 19, 1838. 
 
 Acknowledgments are due to numerous editors of periodicals and 
 papers who have given the work a favorable notice. 
 
P REFACE 
 
 In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond the 
 Rocky Mountains, the only apology necessary to offer, is the hope 
 of promoting a more extensive and particular knowledge, than had 
 hitherto been furnished, of the condition of that important section 
 of our country. The author's mode of travelling furnished many 
 opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, through 
 one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west, 
 It is believed that no defects exist in the work irreconcilable with a 
 strict adherence to facts, and this scrupulous regard to truth is the 
 principal merit claimed for the volume. The most of what is narra- 
 ted came under the author's personal observation, and whatever is 
 stated which did not, was obtained from gentlemen whose reputation 
 for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, 
 is well established. This source of information was made available 
 by collecting and comparing the statements of different individuals, 
 retaining what corresponded with his own observation, or was well 
 supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following 
 work contains a greater amount of statistical information in regard 
 to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any pro- 
 duction furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex- 
 tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the 
 express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal popula- 
 tion, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis 
 and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental ap- 
 pointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and 
 their published narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in- 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 telligence, and contains much valuable information ; yet their op- 
 portunities for observation were somewhat limited. They passed 
 over the great chain of mountains, from the head waters of the 
 Missouri, between 45° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon 
 the head waters of the Cooscoots-kee, and followed that river to 
 its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by 
 water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river; 
 wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following 
 spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they 
 pursued on their outward journey. All other persons who have 
 published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were 
 engaged in the fur trade, and many of their observations upon 
 different sections of the country are just, but their productions are 
 deficient in statistical information, and are mostly confined to per- 
 sonal adventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow In- 
 dians, starvation and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public 
 requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not their busi- 
 ness to originate facts, but to record them. The license given to 
 poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights 
 of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing oc- 
 currences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance 
 with truth. 
 
 While it was a leading object to become acquainted with the sit- 
 uation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to 
 teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention was given to the 
 geography of the country, with its productions ; the climate and 
 seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and 
 prairies, mountains and vallies, its mineral and geological structure 
 and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country 
 here described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large 
 scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 
 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, the widely ex- 
 tended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of vol- 
 canic agency which are met with in almost every direction, render 
 
PREFACE. Vll 
 
 the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the traveler ; and 
 if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in 
 themselves. 
 
 It has been an object in writing this volume, to condense as much 
 as possible the amount of information, instead of unnecessarily ex- 
 tending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are pe - 
 rused, the desire may be awakened, if it do not already exist, to 
 benefit the original, the rightful owners, and (with the exception of 
 a few thousand fur traders scattered in every direction over the 
 territory,) the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated 
 nature. 
 
 The map which accompanies the work, has been prepared with 
 much labor and care ; and though some minute parts are omitted, it 
 will be found far more accurate than any which has before been 
 published. In addition to my own surveys, I have availed myself 
 of those of gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, in 
 parts which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancou- 
 ver and other explorers, for much that I have delineated of the 
 North-West coast of the Pacific ocean and the Islands. 
 
PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 The interest the public have taken in this work, evinced by the 
 many highly commendatory reviews and notices, which have ap- 
 peared in numerous periodicals, religious, scientific, and political, 
 both in this country and in Europe, together with the sale of the 
 former editions, has influenced the author to publish a fifth edi- 
 tion. Many persons, whose judgment, extensive knowledge, and 
 piety, entitle them to be held in high estimation, have encouraged 
 him to believe that this work has been interesting to men of science, 
 useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit of 
 missions, and what is not the least to be valued, in awakening a 
 sympathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon. 
 
 As it was an object in preparing the first edition to compress as 
 great an amount of information as possible in the compass of a duo- 
 decimo volume, so in this — the same object has been pursued. 
 Since the publication of the first edition, the whole work has been 
 attentively revised, corrected, and enlarged. It is hoped that it 
 will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in aiding the 
 cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the senti- 
 ment, that the acquisition of all knowledge should be made sub - 
 servient to this important use, and that the gold from any region, 
 if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of no real value, and what- 
 ever will not directly or indirectly, nearly or remotely, concur in 
 this great end, must at length endure the ultimate fate of thai 
 " knowledge which 6hall vanish away." 
 
 1* 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER L 
 
 The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh ; 
 passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam-boat 
 takes fire ; Cincinnati; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio River ; Ohio 
 and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers ; 
 Point Girardou ; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie ; St. 
 Genevieve, old custom ; Herculaneum ; gambling on board the 
 steam-boats ; St. Louis ; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontenelle 17 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Leave St. Louis for Liberty ; passage up the Missouri ; snags ; a 
 walk on shore ; Jefferson City ; River scenery ; Steam-boat Siam; 
 Sandbars; Lexington; Steam-boat disaster ; Liberty; Navahoe 
 Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing provincial- 
 isms ; Caravan commence their journey ; first encampment ; 
 Iowa Indians ; Blacksnake hills ; Nodaway river ; Elk ; cross 
 the Neshnabotana ; Rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of 
 Neshnabotana ; mode of living; mounds of the west; cross the 
 Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries 26 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curios- 
 ity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; Spasmo- 
 dic Cholera; an Indian Chief killed; leave Bellevue for the 
 Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn 
 river, the country around ; Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner 
 of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee Chief ; Indian feasting ; fourth 
 of July; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm; Indian Or- 
 naments; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattlesnake ; buffalo 
 seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; 
 swiftness of antelopes ; climate ; thousands of buffalo ; badgers ; 
 prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea- 
 con ; an alarm ; Ogallalah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. . . 43 
 
Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Black Hills ; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of Indi- 
 ans for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced our 
 journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm- 
 wood; Red Bute; traces of grizzly bears ; geology; Rock Inde- 
 pendence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through 
 the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; waters of the 
 Colorado 69 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations ; 
 Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called ; surgical 
 operations ; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce 
 chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. 
 Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life 76 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia; 
 kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ; JackBon's 
 Hole ; wild flax; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain prospect ; 
 Trois Tetons ; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre's Hole ; 
 Volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship 
 with the Indians ; burial of a child ; scarcity of food ; a timely 
 supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological observa- 
 tions ; scene of mourning 87 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Salmon river ; mineral salt ; chimney ; forest trees, new species 
 of pine ; geology ; sulphur lake ; a rare animal ; new species of 
 squirrels and pheasants ; came to the Lewis branch of the Co- 
 lumbia; ferryman; Basaltic formation; fine climate; arrive at 
 Walla Walla 115 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians by 
 the Hudson Bay Company; leave Walla Walla for Fort Van- 
 couver; loquacious orator; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse 
 
CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 Indians ; morning prospects ; long rapids ; Volcanic mountains ; 
 trial of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia 
 river ; rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading 
 company ; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades ; Chenooks are the 
 Flatheads and Nez Perces; dangerous rapids; Indian burying 
 places ; Pillar rock ; interesting waterfall ; sea fowl ; arrive at 
 Fort Vancouver 131 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Fort George and 
 mouth of the Columbia; mouths of the Multnomah; Wappa- 
 too Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz River ; Indian 
 friendship ; Pacific Ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria 149 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Description of Fort George ; mouth of the Columbia ; dangerous 
 bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for 
 a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excursion 
 in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the 
 entrance of the Columbia; ship William and Anne; ship Isa- 
 bella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; re- 
 turn to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; 
 Indian kindness 156 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 Review of journeyings; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk 
 upon the pebbly shores ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; 
 Methodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi- 
 tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William 
 on the Wappatoo Island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; 
 return to Fort Vancouver 169 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 Services on the Sabbath; obstacles to the gospel; discouraging 
 case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur 
 and farming establishment ; garden productions ; lumber ; com- 
 merce ; peltries ; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris- 
 tian principle ; worldly principle 183 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Indian population ; diseases ; mortality ; attributed to cultivation 
 of the soil ; Indians destitute of medical science ; holidays ; cus- 
 toms at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish 
 customs in punishment ; marriage contracts ; condition of the 
 females ; slavery ; divisions into tribes ; one point of dissimi- 
 
 CHArTER XIV. 
 The various animals beyond the Mountains . . 199 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Fish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den- 
 drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; 
 valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons 214 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; 
 their persons; dress; wealth; habits; physical character ; man- . 
 ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su- 
 perstitions ; medicine men 230 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 The Indians of the Lower Country 246 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; 
 early and mild seasons ; La Dalles Indians; their anxiety to re- 
 ceive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and location 
 of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ; the 
 agitated question ; solitariness 253 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Departure from the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at 
 the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the 
 Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympa- 
 thy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; interesting mee- 
 ting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; 
 a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass 271 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Journey to the Nez Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural sce- 
 nery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; indus- 
 try of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking; journey 
 to Colvile 284 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ;" extraordinary excavation ; lost 
 on the prahie ; Indian principle ; Spokein woods and country ; 
 Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fer- 
 tile valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; "Mill river valley ; arri- 
 val at Fort Colvile; description of the place ; leave Colvile for 
 Fort Okanagan; a mountain of marble; Grand Coule, or old 
 bed of the Columbia; Okanagan described; Long rapids ; ar- 
 rive at Walla Walla 093 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the 
 tribes, their locations, and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort 
 Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas- 
 cades ; daugerous eddy; arrive at Vancouver; Steamboat ex- 
 cursion 313 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Geology 305 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 General remarks ; passage in the steam-ship Beaver, down the 
 river ; take passage on board the barque Columbia ; detention in 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 Chenook bay ; great cave ; Codfish, the first ever taken in this 
 bay . 350 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 Departure for the Sandwich Islands ; arrival at the Islands ; wor- 
 ship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the 
 valley of Manoa ; description of Honolulu ; of Waititi ; heathen 
 temple ; Eva ; Waialua ; Keneohe ; mountains; Salt lake natural 
 productions; animals ; government ; tea party of the royal family ; 
 dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise ; decrease 
 of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign residents ; charity 
 school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; 
 missionary success. .'....' 353 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Departure from Oahu in ship Phoauix for the United States ; call at 
 the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo ; re- 
 commence our voyage ; water spout ; severe gales of wind ; 
 Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trindad ; arrival at 
 New London 373 
 
PARKER'S TOUR. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh — passage 
 to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — the steamboat takes fire — 
 Cincinnati — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio River — Ohio and Kentucky 
 — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — 
 beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Genevieve, old custom 
 — Herculaneum — Gambling on board the steamboats — St. Louis — 
 Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle. 
 
 The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and 
 the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical 
 condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the 
 the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the pos- 
 session of this country, its future probable importance in a 
 political view, its population and trade, have occupied 
 much attention. The Christian public have not been in- 
 attentive to the interests, moral and religious', of those 
 whom the God of providence has placed in these remote , 
 regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization 
 and Christianity. The American Board of Commissioners 
 for Foreign Missions appointed an exploring mission to 
 ascertain by personal observation, the condition of the 
 country, and the character of the Indian nations and tribes, 
 and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization 
 among them. 
 
18 PITTSBURGH. 
 
 That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour- 
 ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except 
 by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could 
 be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. 
 It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif- 
 ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed 
 my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. 
 Although it was painful to bid adieu to my family and 
 friends, unapprised of the events of the future, yet com- 
 mitting all to the guidance and protection of an all-wise 
 Providence, the enterprise was undertaken without reluc- 
 tance, on the 14th of March, 1835. Pursuing the jour- 
 ney by the way of Buffalo, and Erie, I arrived at Pitts- 
 burgh on the 25th. The intervening distance to St. 
 Louis, through the great valley of the west, had lost much 
 of its novelty, as I had previously passed over it, and long 
 since had it ceased to excite that degree of interest in the 
 community, with which it was regarded before the nu- 
 merous descriptions of the tourist and traveler had ren- 
 dered its general features familiar. Only a passing no- 
 tice, therefore will be given. 
 
 Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manu- 
 factories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I 
 took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, 
 four hundred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The 
 scenery of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to 
 •the Mississippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, 
 and cultivated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 
 28th, we arrived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that 
 day was discovered to be on fire in the hold, in which a 
 large quantity of combustible goods were deposited. 
 This created great alarm. A very strong head wind blew 
 the fire from the furnaces down the hatchway, which, af- 
 ter removing some goods, had been carelessly left open. 
 
CINCINNATI. 19 
 
 The captain immediately rounded the boat to the shore, 
 and no sooner was it gained, than there was a general 
 rush for safety. Some of the passengers threw out their 
 baggage, and many leaped from the upper deck to the 
 land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with consider- 
 able difficulty we disengaged the boat from its grounded 
 position, and from the trees among which it was en- 
 tangled, and we were again under way. 
 
 Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and 
 from its mature appearance would hardly be thought to 
 have been the growth of only half a century. Its popula- 
 tion, composed of emigrants from New England, the mid- 
 dle, and some of the southern states, and from various 
 parts of Europe, is consequently not very homogeneous 
 in its character. Its schools and institutions of litera- 
 ture, promise much for the great interests of science 
 and religion in this interesting section of our growing 
 country. 
 
 Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, 
 for the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St Louis, which, by 
 water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. 
 On the 30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the 
 falls of the Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable 
 for boats only in high water, about two months in the 
 year. To save the expense and delay of portage around 
 the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of 
 the river, two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty 
 feet deep. 
 
 The water being high, we passed over the falls. It 
 was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves 
 slowly and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls, it 
 increases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself 
 in an irresistible current ; and you are anxious to know 
 whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. 
 
20 OHIO RIVER OHIO AND KENTUCKY. 
 
 You look at them to see if they betray any fear ; you find 
 that while their attention is fixed, their countenances are 
 serene. Your fears give way to emotions of the sublime. 
 The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, 
 and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide- 
 spread calm below. 
 
 The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course 
 romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth 
 and easy current, and is diversified on every side with 
 rich bottom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. 
 These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from 
 the shore of the river, in other places they recede some 
 miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the 
 scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. 
 No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add 
 interest in passing through this part of the great wes- 
 tern valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, exhibit the 
 advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the 
 soil. The many swift-moving, panting steam-boats, 
 show that industry furnishes the means of. wide-ex- 
 tended and profitable commerce. The striking dif- 
 ference in the taste and habits of the people inhabit- 
 ing the two sides of the river, was here very apparent. 
 Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwel- 
 lings are in the New England style, while on the Ken- 
 tucky side, scattered here and there you see the large 
 log houses of the planters in a grade of architecture con- 
 siderably above the log cabins' of their slaves, by which 
 they are surrounded, yet log houses still. These are built 
 two stories high, with a wide airy hall through the centre, 
 one of the lower rooms being the parlor, and the other 
 serves the several purposes of a nursery, sleeping and 
 eating room. Open, frank hospitality characterizes the 
 
CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21 
 
 Kentuckian, which is pleasing to a stranger. I offered a 
 lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at 
 first declined with the enquiry, " Do you think we are 
 heathen ?" " No, madam ; but tracts contain much that 
 is interesting to all classes of people, and after they are 
 read, can be circulated among those who may not be well 
 supplied with books." I saw but very few houses of 
 worship, except in villages. 
 
 On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the 
 Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out 
 into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same 
 form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most 
 majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to 
 claim the superiority; and when joined they move on with 
 united grandeur. We should expect at the confluence of 
 these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but in- 
 stead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling ta- 
 vern, surrounded by a few miserable huts. 
 
 To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about 
 the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the \eg y 
 and had he not been immediately seized and extricated 
 by two men standing by, must have been drawn wholly 
 in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, 
 but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There 
 being no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his 
 wounds. 
 
 Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above 
 the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a 
 bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine 
 prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus- 
 try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics 
 are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance 
 of decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and 
 current. 
 
22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. 
 
 The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs, presented 
 a fine scene this evening. These bluffs are two hundred 
 feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. 
 At a considerable distance they appeared like an illumi- 
 nated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, 
 the illusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly 
 over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately as- 
 cending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in 
 festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from 
 the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much 
 to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect 
 
 We made a short stay on the third, at the landing of 
 St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from 
 the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely 
 by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and 
 manners established by their forefathers, who have long 
 since passed away. To adopt new improvements would 
 be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and 
 turning infidel. It is amusing to see the manner in which 
 they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign 
 for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight piece 
 of wood fastened to the backside of the horns by straps of 
 leather. They say, that in this way, they save the whole 
 power of the animal ; but that the yoke, bowed to the 
 neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, looses the power of 
 the head and neck. The reasoning may satisfy them- 
 selves, but would not convince the thorough New Eng- 
 land farmer. 
 
 To day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situa- 
 ted on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below 
 St. Louis. It is almost surrounded by high precipitous 
 hills, having only a narrow space for a village. There 
 are several shot-towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, 
 in which considerable business is done. Large quantities 
 
GAMBLING. 23 
 
 of lead, brought from the mines, are sold and carried to 
 distant markets. 
 
 In traveling upon these waters, it is painful to see how 
 few books of any value there are on board the steam- 
 boats. Some novels are found, but the most of them are of 
 a licentious character. Thousands of those who navigate 
 these rivers are going to judgment, regardless of the inter- 
 ests of their souls, and most of them are destitute of the 
 Bible. It gave great offence to many, that we should 
 have religious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by 
 invitation. Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Ob- 
 truding religion— no place for such things." But pro- 
 fanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in 
 time and always in place. Christians must keep religion 
 out of sight and hearing, but the wicked may be as open 
 and obtrusive as they please. Gambling is practised on 
 board the steam-boats upon these waters to a very great 
 extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose 
 minds are not sufficiently cultivated to find satisfaction in 
 reading, or intelligent conversation. The number of black- 
 legs who make gambling their business is great ; they are 
 adepts in their profession, and their success depends very 
 much upon their skill in deception, and in decoying the 
 inexperienced. 
 
 On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. 
 This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west 
 side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth 
 of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the 
 Missouri, and its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. 
 The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, 
 and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, 
 partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open 
 prairies. 
 
 In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets 
 
24 ST. LOUIS. 
 
 are narrow. This may have been to accommodate their 
 propensity to be sociable, by enabling them to converse 
 from the windows across the streets. The French popu- 
 lation, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted 
 for their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their fa- 
 vorite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this 
 object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As 
 gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, 
 enterprising men among the French population. Drunk- 
 enness is not common, and the temperance cause is doing 
 much to remove what exists. Eastern enterprise and in- 
 fluence are gaining ground since the town has been 
 brought under the laws of the United States; and now a 
 new impulse is given to business. This is the central 
 place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by 
 the American Fur Company to a considerable extent; 
 and also much business is done in lead, which is obtained 
 at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other 
 water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are 
 seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers of al- 
 most every description of character and nation, such as 
 trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, collect here, as a 
 starting point from whence to go into the still far west, 
 many of whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky 
 Mountains. The local situation of this town is such, that 
 it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places 
 for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are 
 five houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman 
 Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light 
 brown sand stone, and is a large expensive building. The 
 Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many 
 active, devoted Christians, who exert a salutary influence 
 upon the town and vicinity. The population is fifteen 
 thousand. 
 
BR. WHITMAN. 25 
 
 Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here. He 
 is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for 
 Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through 
 the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived 
 a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview 
 with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent 
 out by the American Fur Company. The caravan pro- 
 ceeds a short distance beyond the Rocky Mountains, for 
 the purpose of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and 
 supplies for their men who are engaged in hunting and 
 trapping ; and returns with the furs which they have taken 
 during the year. There are about three hundred men 
 constantly employed in and about the mountains, and more 
 than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much 
 less number it would be unsafe to perform this journey, as 
 there are hostile tribes of Indians on the wa} r , viz : the 
 Arickaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained 
 permission of the principal agents of the company, Mr. 
 Fontenelle kindly offered to accommodate us with such 
 advantages as may be afforded in his caravan. Finding 
 it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which 
 is one of the most western towns in the United States, we 
 were very busily employed in making preparation for the 
 journey, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to Chris- 
 tian friends. A fire last night destroyed a very large liv- 
 ery stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle, and bridle. 
 The old cathedral, used for a store-house, was also burnt, 
 together with a very large quantity of crockery which it 
 contained. 
 
ACCIDENT. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk 
 on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steamboat Siam — Sand 
 bars — Lexington — Steamboat disaster — Liberty — Navahoe Indians 
 — ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms — Cara- 
 van commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indians — 
 Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river — Elk — cross the Neshnabotana — 
 Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana — mode of 
 
 At five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steamboat 
 St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twen- 
 ty miles; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and 
 Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous 
 to proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars 
 in the Missouri. 
 
 On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather 
 slow progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which 
 is twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the 
 Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. 
 Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the 
 north side of the river. The country around is interesting, 
 and the soil of superior quality. An enterprising Christian 
 population would make this one of the most desirable 
 places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy 
 six years of age, fel 1 overboard : but, from the swiftness of 
 the current, and as the boat was under full way, there was 
 no opportunity to save him. He was seen floating a short 
 time, but before the yawl could be loosed from its fasten- 
 ing, and manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His 
 mother, a widow, and her family, were removing from 
 
JEFFERSON CITY. 27 
 
 Kentucky to Franklin, Mo. The mother and the children 
 lamented greatly and loudly. 
 
 Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a 
 snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we 
 could not determine what it was, and it became necessary 
 to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much 
 injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore. 
 Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of 
 those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This 
 was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an 
 elevation of several hundred feet. Here we had a delight- 
 ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled 
 prairie and woodland, its cultivated spots, and its hills and 
 dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter- 
 posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could 
 we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by de- 
 scending backwards, to use much caution ; letting our- 
 selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, 
 and assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. 
 We also visited a place, some distance below this, where 
 Lewis and Clark encamped three days, the state of the 
 river being such that they could not ascend with their 
 batteaux. Here I found a location of granular quartz, suf- 
 ficiently extensive for the manufacturing of flint glass. 
 Many wild turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited 
 shores. On the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her 
 cargo at Portland, a small, newly built village. A fellow 
 passenger, a merchant of this place, on landing, immediate- 
 ly put in requisition some thirty colored men, women, and 
 children, who readily, without the aid of horses or carts, 
 transferred his merchandize to its destination. 
 
 The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson City, the 
 capital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, 
 upon a high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It 
 
28 SAND BARS. 
 
 has a great name for so small a place. The state house 
 is of a size which would be decent for a small academy ; 
 and the governor's house would do very well for a common 
 farmer's house in the country, but is not such as we 
 should expect for a governor in Jefferson City. But the 
 state of Missouri is comparatively new, and this place may 
 in time support its name. 
 
 Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and 
 endeavored to observe the day according to the command- 
 ment. 
 
 On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small 
 villages, which have a country of rich land around them, 
 and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must 
 rise in importance. The scenery on this river is sufficiently 
 diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along 
 the shores are mostly oak and cotton-wood, with some 
 hacberry and buckeye ; and it is interesting to see how 
 easily and how deep they take root in the free rich soil 
 along the river. Frequently, where the banks are wash- 
 ing away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, 
 and generally there is only a large central root descend- 
 ing ten or twelve feet, with small ones branching out, pre- 
 senting the appearance of an inverted cone. The river 
 makes "nothing of washing away banks and islands and 
 forming new ones. Sand bars and snags are so common, 
 that, becoming accustomed to them, we hardly think of 
 danger. 
 
 On the 14th, we found the steamboat Siam, Captain 
 L., at Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her 
 freight and passengers, and returned, both boats having so 
 far discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the 
 remainder. When under way, the boat ran upon a sand 
 bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently 
 threatening a disaster ; but the quick sand of which the bar 
 
A CONTRAST. 29 
 
 was composed, soon washed away, and we went ahead 
 again. Running aground in this river is a very different 
 thing from what it would be in most waters ; for the bars 
 are so generally formed of quicksand, that in most instances 
 the current around the boat sets all clear. 
 
 Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon 
 a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and 
 so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we 
 made only five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at 
 Lexington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back 
 from the landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We 
 made only about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so 
 slow, that it would have been far more pleasant travelling 
 by land ; and to have been free from imprisonment with 
 shockingly profane swearers and gamblers, most of whom 
 are intemperate. 
 
 It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sab- 
 bath, on board the steamboat. How great a contrast to 
 the sacredness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Chris- 
 tian family circle ; or in the sanctuary where God is wor- 
 shipped in the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unob- 
 trusive Sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to 
 study the word of God, that they may practice its precepts, 
 and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing 
 divine truth upon the young and tender conscience. 
 
 As we passed along, I saw many children standing on 
 the banks of the river, and thought how benevolent per- 
 sons at the east had desired their religious instruction, and 
 how much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had 
 failed to reach these. I also reflected on the examples of 
 infidelity and vice around them, by which they are educa- 
 ted for destruction, and endeavored to ask the Great Bene- 
 factor of all, to do that for them which it was not in my 
 power to do. I contrasted in my mind the difference be- 
 
30 A STEAMBOAT DISASTER. 
 
 tween kindred souls in sweet communion in the service of 
 God to-day, and the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly- 
 men, which my eyes and ears were witnessing, and said, 
 when will the kingdoms of this world become the king- 
 doms of our Lord and his Christ. 
 
 About the middle of the day, the captain and his men 
 appeared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam 
 was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her 
 first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in rais- 
 ing and applying steam. Such was the power under 
 which the boat labored, that she more than trembled. For 
 a long time I expected some disaster, and looked at the 
 captain to see if I could discover any apprehension of dan- 
 ger. There was no want of evidence that there was a 
 free use of ardent spirits. Soon the disaster came, though 
 less extensive than I had feared; the main shaft, which 
 was large and made of iron, broke, and farther progress 
 was impossible. 
 
 Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to 
 find some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. 
 It only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilder- 
 ness shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and 
 return with one wheel, like a crippled winged fowl. Two 
 miles above us lay the steamboat Nelson, upon a sand bar 
 high and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and be- 
 ing left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to 
 be liberated. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that 
 most of the accidents which happen to steamboats take 
 place on the Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would 
 be long before they would not run on that daj. We en- 
 gaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards 
 evening went out into a small neighborhood of Mormons, 
 where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, 
 which they call their promised land, and to which they say 
 
LIBERTY. 31 
 
 they shall return. They are a poor, deluded people, and 
 when they speak of their persecutions, they seem not to 
 possess the spirit of our Saviour, who, when he was reviled, 
 reviled not again, and when he suffered, threatened not. 
 
 We rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through 
 a very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well 
 supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly 
 to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the 
 year, when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, 
 appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flow- 
 ers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and 
 the scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. 
 Sponsa) which here were numerous ; the variety of their 
 colors were adapted to the beauty of the scenery which 
 surrounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to 
 accelerate its movements so much from fear, as from love 
 of flight 
 
 Liberty is a small village, sittfated three miles north of 
 the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court- 
 house of brick' — several stores, which do considerable bu- 
 siness, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling 
 houses. 
 
 We continued here about three weeks, waiting for the 
 caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, 
 horses and e mules, and wagons, are collected and put in 
 readiness ; and from this place commences the long jour- 
 ney for the west. Whi'e we remained here, we had an 
 opportunity to collect much information from those who 
 have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard 
 to the country, mode of traveling, and concerning the 
 various Indian tribes on the way. Captain Ford and Lieu- 
 tenant Stein, from Fort Leavenworth, were also here. 
 They are both professors of religion, and appear to be well 
 acquainted with the Indian country. Lieut. S. has been 
 
32 CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH. 
 
 much among the Indians, was out with the dragoons the 
 last year — and was among the Pawnee Picts. He gives 
 a very favorable account of them, and thinks the way is 
 open to establish a mission among them with fair prospects 
 of success. He also thinks the way is prepared, or is pre- 
 paring, for a mission among the Camanches, who hereto- 
 fore have been hostile, but now wish for peace and trade 
 with the Americans. I saw also a Mr. Vaughn of this 
 place, a Baptist professor, who has made two trips to San- 
 ta Fe, and has resided two years in that place. He gives 
 a very interesting description of the Navahoes, a tribe who 
 number about two thousand warriors. Their country lies 
 between the Rio Del Norte, and the eastern branches of 
 Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very con- 
 siderable extent ; have large herds of cattle and horses, 
 and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic manufac- 
 tures, and houses of good construction. They are friendly 
 to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. V. thinks 
 they would readily receive Protestant missionaries, and 
 would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of their 
 hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the 
 Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte 
 towards old Mexico. These have been at war three years 
 with the Spaniards. 
 
 Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Canton- 
 ment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of 
 the Missouri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United 
 States. The way is through a fertile section of country ; 
 part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are 
 handsomely wooded, and all are well adapted to cultiva- 
 tion. I had an introduction to several of the officers, and 
 made my home at Lient. Stein's, an agreeable and reli- 
 gious family. 
 
 I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the 
 

 SINGULAR VIEWS. 33 
 
 people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention. 
 There is a very considerable number of professors of reli- 
 gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain to 
 teach and lead them in their devotions ; this is a deficien- 
 cy in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and 
 some of the other officers appeared disposed to maintain 
 good order, and I should think they exerted a salutary in- 
 fluence. I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liber- 
 ty, to take a view of the fort and the adjacent country. 
 The buildings of the fort are situated within an enclosure 
 around a large, beautiful square, which is covered with 
 grass and adorned with shade trees. The whole is on an 
 elevation of a few hundred feet, and has an interesting 
 prospect of the majestic river flowing on silently below. 
 The fertile country around presents a wide and fine pros- 
 pect, and when settled by an industrious population, will 
 equal the most favored parts of the earth. 
 
 Liberty and the surrounding country, is inhabited by 
 people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be 
 brought under Christian influence, there will be but few 
 places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min- 
 ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable 
 attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap- 
 tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east. 
 They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day. 
 Elder H. the pastor of the church in this place, invited 
 Rev. Mr. Merrill, a Baptist missionary, located among the 
 Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him 
 the first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, 
 apprehensive that Mr. Merrill would say something about 
 the cause of temperance, or missionary efforts, and Elder 
 H. had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act 
 from Christian principles in refusing to give their minister 
 any thing for support, lest they should make him an hireling. 
 
34 PROVINCIALISMS. 
 
 It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are 
 common in this part of the country. If a person intends to 
 commence a journey some time in the month, for instance, 
 in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May." 
 For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprin- 
 kle of people." The word " balance," comes into almost 
 every transaction — " will you not have a dessert for the 
 balance of your dinner V 9 — " to make out the balance of his 
 night's rest, he slept until eight in the morning." If your 
 baggage is to be carried, it will be asked, " shall I tote 
 your plunder ?" This use of the word plunder is said to 
 have originated in the early predatory habits of the bor- 
 derers. They also speak of a " mighty pleasant day" — 
 " a mighty beautiful flower"—" migfrty weak." A gentle- 
 man with whom I formed some acquaintance, invited me, 
 when I should make " an outing" for exercise, to call at 
 his house \ for his family would be " mighty glad " to see 
 me. 
 
 During our continuance at this place we were hospita- 
 bly entertained at the house of J. Bird, Esq., one of the 
 judges of the county court. We were under many obliga- 
 tions to him and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but 
 also for the privilege of retirement in so kind and intelli- 
 gent a family. Nor would we be unmindful of the hospi- 
 tality shown us by Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Yantis. 
 
 May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced 
 our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course north- 
 west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of 
 the United States, and for the last time, for a long period 
 to come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. 
 
 The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought 
 us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian 
 country. We encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. 
 The sensations excited by the circumstances of our situ a- 
 
INDIAN TRIBES. 35 
 
 tion were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt j in a 
 wilderness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, 
 engaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a 
 few articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, 
 and bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I 
 would not dispense with attention to decencies, because 
 beyond the boundaries of civilization ; and having ad- 
 justed every thing in good order, and offered up our eve- 
 ning devotions, we retired to rest. But how to adjust all 
 the anxieties and feelings of the mind, so as to obtain the 
 desired repose, was a more difficult task. 
 
 On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, 
 which is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath 
 with Mr. Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmen- 
 tal blacksmith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians 
 of the Iowa, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox 
 Indian and his wife were noble looking persons, having 
 their faces painted with unmixed vermillion ; the former 
 entirely, and the latter in stripes. They felt too impor- 
 tant to be seen noticing what was transpiring around, and 
 seemed to thinlPthemselves the only objects worthy of 
 notice. 
 
 Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing 
 discouraging for a missionary station, except the contam- 
 inating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish 
 to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than 
 on any other account; for their game is mostly gone. 
 One of them came to Mr. Gilmore to get some ploughs, 
 and remarked, " It is hard work to dig up our ground for 
 corn by hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, 
 who would not join Black Hawk in his war against the 
 United States, and who are now afraid to return to their 
 own country. Their condition is becoming more and more 
 wretched; for while they have not the knowledge, the 
 
36 BLACK SNAKE HILLS. 
 
 means, nor much of the inclination necessary to cultivate 
 their lands advantageously, they have an insatiable thirst 
 for ardent spirits ; and there are too many unprincipled men 
 on our frontiers, who, for the sake of gain, will supply 
 them with the means of drunkenness and destruction. 
 
 Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality, 
 we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake 
 Hills. At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, 
 and an uncommonly fine farming establishment on the 
 Missouri river. His buildings are on a small elevation 
 of land, having a delightful prospect in front of more 
 than a thousand acres of open bottom land, lying along 
 down the river ; and hills on the north and east par- 
 tially covered with woods- What has nature not wrought 
 without the labor of man ? The herds of cattle, and other 
 domestic animals, have as wide a range as they choose, 
 and fences are necessary only to secure fields for culti- 
 vation. 
 
 The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their 
 deadr A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon 
 which the dead are placed in rudely instructed coffins 
 overspread with skins. 
 
 Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre- 
 ferring the field to the house, where I might have been 
 subjected to many kinds of annoyances. 
 
 For several days nothing special occurred. On the 22d 
 we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft ; the construc- 
 tion of which, and transporting our baggage, occupied 
 most of the day. To construct a raft, a number of dry logs 
 are collected, and secured together, side by side, with barks 
 stripped from elm trees ; some few men swim across the 
 river, taking with them one end of a rope, while the other 
 end is fastened to the raft; it is then shoved off, the men 
 upon the other side of the river pulling upon the rope. 
 
ELK. 37 
 
 The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, 
 before it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In 
 this manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage 
 was carried over. Then followed the swimming over the 
 horses, which is attended with noise enough — hallooing of 
 men, snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones 
 to prevent them, after having gone part the way over, 
 from returning. 
 
 We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap- 
 proached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were 
 not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very 
 large, and when their horns are on, have a very majestic 
 appearance. We frequently found their horns on the 
 prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide 
 spreading branches. . 
 
 Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near 
 which we had encamped the evening before, my companion 
 and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went 
 on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we 
 felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty; 
 and as there was no danger from the hostile Indians, we 
 considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day 
 was very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two 
 in the afternoon, at 88°. 
 
 The next day we crossed the south branch ol the Nesh- 
 nabotana on a raft, and overtook the caravan before night. 
 Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis- 
 pleased because we did not travel with them on the Sab- 
 bath. To express their displeasure, they cut some of the 
 barks, with which the raft they had made was bound to- 
 gether, and set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far 
 before it lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of 
 time, we repaired it and passed over. 
 
 After our arrangements were made for the night, one of 
 
38 NESHNABOTANA RIVER. 
 
 the desperadoes came to our tent with a basin of alcohol, 
 and stated to us that they had taken the offence of our re- 
 fusing to travel with them on the Sabbath into considera- 
 tion, and had concluded to pass it over, if we would take 
 a friendly drink with them. This, of course, we declined. 
 He said the men were highly displeased, and he could not say 
 what would be the result — giving us to understand that if 
 we refused their terms of reconciliation, our lives were in 
 danger. We still refused. He then said if we would put 
 the basin to our lips and wet them, they would accept that 
 as satisfaction. But his arguments and threats not avail- 
 ing to shake our temperance principles, he went away; 
 yet as we afterwards learned without giving up the pur- 
 pose of revenge on some other occasion. 
 
 On the twenty-sixth, we came to the main branch of the 
 Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finish- 
 ing of which and crossing took most of the following day. 
 The soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass 
 for our horses is excellent; but there are none here to till 
 the ground, nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, 
 which might be made from the spontaneous growth. This 
 part of the country does not yet answer the end for which 
 it was created. The time will come, when a dense popu- 
 lation will cover this country, who will render the sacri- 
 fice of prayer and praise to our God. 
 
 On the 28th, we rode eleven miles, and came to the 
 north branch of the above mentioned river. After we had 
 constructed a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. 
 The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before 
 we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed to conside- 
 rable depth ; thus the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to 
 sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that we could not 
 proceed. After searching for a long time, a place was 
 found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when un- 
 
MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 39 
 
 loaded. We had to carry our baggage upon our shoulders 
 about fifteen rods, part of the way in water mid deep, go- 
 ing forward and returning until all was carried to better 
 ground ; and then we had to ride a mile to the dry prairie 
 in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find our- 
 selves once more on firm footing. Encamped by a stream 
 of clear water, which is rare in this part of the country, and 
 especially at this season of the year. The waters of all 
 this portion of country, especially of the Missouri river, 
 and its large tributaries, are very turbid, owing to the na- 
 ture of the soil over which Ihey pass. A pail full of wa- 
 ter, standing half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will 
 deposit three-eighths of an inch of sediment; and yet the 
 water, when settled, appears to be of good quality. 
 
 Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces- 
 sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted 
 our breakfast, dinner, and supper. The bacon we cooked, 
 when we could obtain wood for fire; but when "out of 
 sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could 
 be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. Some of the 
 simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culinary 
 purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial ones 
 are numerous. 
 
 30th. We drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down 
 from the high, rolling prairie, through a vale two or three 
 miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and 
 widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section 
 of country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The 
 mounds, which some have called the work of unknown 
 generations of men, were scattered here in all varieties 
 of forms and magnitudes ; and were thousands in number, 
 and perhaps I may say ten thousands. Some of these 
 mounds were conical, some eliptical, some square, and 
 others parallelograms. One group of these attracted my 
 
40 MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 
 
 attention more than any others. They were twelve in 
 number, of conical form, with their bases joined, and twenty 
 or thirty feet high. They formed about two-thirds of a 
 circle, with an area of two hundred feet in diameter. If 
 these were isolated, who would not say they are artificial? 
 But when they are only a group of ten thousand others, 
 which have as much the appearance of being artificial, 
 w T ho will presume to say they are the work of man ? But 
 if they are the work of art, and attest the number, the ge- 
 nius, and perseverance of departed nations, whose works 
 have survived the lapse of ages, their history is shrouded 
 in darkness. " The mind seeks in vain for some clue to 
 assist it in unraveling the mystery. Was their industry 
 stimulated by the desire to protect themselves against in- 
 roads of invaders, or were they themselves the aggressors?" 
 " Are they the monuments of western Pharaohs, and do 
 they conceal treasures which may yet be brought to light?" 
 There is nothing plainer than that they were never de- 
 signed as works of defence. But some, while they admit 
 that these mounds were not designed for offensive or de- 
 fensive operations of belligerent powers, have supposed 
 that they were erected as " mausoleums, and that the dif- 
 ference in their size was intended to convey an idea of the 
 difference in the relative importance of those whose bones 
 they cover." If this theory is true, the La Trappe on the 
 Mississippi, which I had an opportunity of examining on 
 my northern tour, and which is as much as one hundred 
 and fifty feet high, covering about six acres, must inclose 
 mighty bones, or the bones of a mighty monarch. I would 
 not be understood to dissent from the belief, that there are 
 artificial mounds in the great valley of the west, but I be- 
 lieve there are great mistakes in the theories upon this 
 subject. It is said, by those who advocate the belief that 
 they are the work of ancient nations, that they present 
 
MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 41 
 
 plain evidence of this, from the fact that they contain hu- 
 man bones, articles of pottery, and the like, which evince 
 that they were constructed for "burying places of the 
 dead. That some of them have been used for burying 
 places is undoubtedly true ; but may it not be questionable 
 whether they were constructed, or only selected for bury- 
 ing places. Besides, if these mounds were works of hu- 
 man art, I confess myself wholly at a loss to discover the 
 traces of design, which are always characteristic of every 
 human effort. The absence of every other vestige of a 
 race extinct, such as monuments, walls, cities, or ruins of 
 any description, lead us to believe, that such a people must 
 have lived only to burrow in the earth, as these mounds are 
 the only traces they have left of their existence. Depopu- 
 late any portion of the world, with which we are acquainted, 
 and, save the savages who roam the desert or the prairie, 
 many centuries must elapse, before all monuments would 
 entirely cease to exist. No one, who has ever seen the 
 immense number of mounds scattered through the valley 
 of the Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe 
 that a five hundredth part of them are the work of man. 
 
 We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very 
 deep, was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge 
 over it. Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom 
 lands of the Missouri, we crossed this noble river over 
 against Bellevue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses 
 and mules across ; this, on account of the width of the 
 river, and the strength of the current, required much effort. 
 I went to the agency house, where I was happy to find 
 brethren Dunbar and Allis, missionaries to the Pawnees, 
 under the direction of the American Board of Commission- 
 ers for Foreign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here, 
 composed of Rev. Moses Merril and wife, Miss Brown, 
 and a Christian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. 
 
42 AMERICAN FUR COMPANY. 
 
 Brainard's Indians. They are appointed by the Baptist 
 Board to labor among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five 
 miles from this place, on the river Platte. These Indians 
 are away from their intended residence about half the time, 
 on hunting excursions. 
 
 A little more than a half mile below the agency, the 
 American Fur Company have a fort, and in connexion, 
 they have a farming establishment and large numbers of 
 cattle and horses, and a horse-power mill for grinding corn. 
 
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 43 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curiosity ; 
 information obtained about several Indian tribes; Spasmodic Cholera; 
 an Indian Chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of 
 rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; 
 Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee 
 Chief; Indian feasting ; fourth of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; 
 thunder storm ; Indian Ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a 
 rattlesnake; buffalo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want 
 of wood ; swiftness of antelopes ; climate ; thousands of buffalo ; 
 badgers; prairie dog; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or 
 beacon ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. 
 
 We continued in this place three weeks 3 waiting the 
 movements of the caravan, who made slow progress in pre- 
 paring their packages for the mountains. During our de- 
 tention here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering 
 upon the west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the 
 pure air of the rolling prairies, and to view the magnifi- 
 cent prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the sum- 
 mit of those prominences, the valley of the Missouri may be 
 traced until lost in its far winding course among the bluffs. 
 Three miles below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable 
 stream from the north-west, winding its way round to the 
 east, and uniting with the Missouri, six miles above the 
 confluence of the Platte coming from the west. These 
 flow through a rich alluvial plain, opening to the south 
 and south-west as far as the eye can reach. Upon these 
 meadows are seen feeding some few hundreds of horses 
 and mules, and a herd of cattle ; and some fields of corn 
 diversified the scenery. The north is covered with woods, 
 which are not less valuable than the rich vales. But few 
 
44 MISSIONARY PROSPECTS. 
 
 places can present a prospect more interesting, and when a 
 civilized population shall add the fruits of their industry, 
 but few can be more desirable. 
 
 In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con- 
 version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn 
 of their native character, that the first impressions which 
 the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important 
 in their bearings on successful labors afterwards. In things 
 about which they are conversant, they are men; but about 
 other things they are children ; and like children, the an- 
 nouncement of a new subject awakens their attention, their 
 curiosity, and their energies; and it has been remarked by 
 a Methodist missionary who has labored among the Indians, 
 that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its first being 
 offered, and that those among the adults, w T ho failed to do so, 
 were rarely converted. If, from any motives, or from any 
 cause, instruction is delayed, and their expectations are 
 disappointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from 
 which it is difficult to arouse them. 
 
 We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this 
 place, to collect much information relating to the Indians 
 in the Sioux country, from Major Pitcher, the agent ap- 
 pointed by government to the Yanktons, a band of the 
 Sioux. He appeared to be not only intelligent and can- 
 did, but also well disposed towards Indian improvement 
 The following is the substance of the information which 
 he gave us in regard to several tribes to the north and 
 north-west of this place: that the Omahaws are situated 
 upon the Missouri, about one hundred and fifty miles above 
 this place, and number about two thousand. They have 
 been well disposed towards the whites, but, owing to their 
 intercourse with traders and trappers, and abuses which 
 they have received from them, they are becoming more 
 vicious in their habits, and less friendly. Yet, kind treat- 
 
SIOUX INDIANS. 45 
 
 ment would conciliate their favor, so that there would be 
 no reason to fear but that a mission might be established 
 among them with fair prospects of success. 
 
 The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of 
 about two thousand people. Their village is to be located 
 on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri 
 from the north. Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligi- 
 ble place for a missionary station, and says he will do all 
 in his power to aid such an enterprise. 
 
 The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at 
 the confluence of the Veau qui coure, number six or eight 
 hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahaws. 
 
 The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux 
 river and that on the south of the Veau qui coure, as high 
 as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed un- 
 der the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited 
 by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, al- 
 ready mentioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, 
 Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west 
 from the Mississippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as 
 far south as the river Platte. The real number of the sev- 
 eral bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but probably it 
 is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wander- 
 ing, and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsis- 
 tence. Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The 
 traders have for many years maintained a friendly inter- 
 course with them, and, generally speaking, they are much 
 attached to white men. 
 
 The Mandans are a much more stationary people than 
 almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and 
 the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is 
 good; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they 
 have experienced, thej are beginning to grow Suspicious, 
 and are losing confidence in white men. 
 
46 SPASMODIC CHOLERA. 
 
 Our stay in this place has been protracted much beyond 
 our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spas- 
 modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity. 
 The weather was very warm, and there were showers from 
 day to day. The intemperate habits of the men, and their 
 manner of living, probably had a tendency to induce the 
 disease. Three of the company died; and several others 
 barely survived, through the blessing of God upon the as- 
 siduous attentions of Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the 
 free use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for 
 his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and 
 the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren- 
 dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged. 
 This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de- 
 parture sooner than it otherwise would have taken place. 
 It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the 
 only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the dis- 
 ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom- 
 menced our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it 
 respected Dr. W. and myself, was providential. The as- 
 sistance we rendered The sick, and the medical skill of the 
 Doctor, converted those into permanent friends, who had so 
 disliked the restraints which our presence imposed upon 
 them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had plotted 
 our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to 
 put their purpose in execution. 
 
 Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half 
 blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under 
 very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family 
 were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or 
 seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the 
 night, called him up, took him away a half mile, and shot 
 him with six balls, scalped him, and left him unburied. 
 The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a 
 
MURDER OP A CHIEF. 47 
 
 bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who 
 authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will 
 remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno- 
 cent persons. This, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars 
 are often produced. While we charge the Indians with 
 inveterate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, we forget 
 the too numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon 
 them, which incite them to revenge. They cannot appre- 
 hend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, 
 would it not be published as a gross Indian murder and 
 aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced 
 against them? When Indian offences are proclaimed, we 
 hear only one side of the story, and the other will not be 
 heard until the last great day. 
 
 Monday, June 22d. After so long delay, we re-com- 
 menced our journey for the " far west." The Black Hills 
 are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started 
 yesterday. We passed over a rich, extensive prairie, but 
 so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through 
 the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, 
 cold rain, in consequence of which I became much chilled. 
 We overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a 
 high prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it 
 was difficult to make a fire. We had for supper coarse 
 bread made of corn, and some bacon. The change from 
 the comforts to the bare necessaries of life was trying ; 
 but when I had wrapped myself in my blankets and laid 
 down upon the ground to repose for the night, I felt thank- 
 ful to God for his goodness. 
 
 Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian 
 country, and not knowing what the eventful future may 
 unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests 
 for the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instru- 
 mental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life 
 
48 A STORM. 
 
 or death, I could say, "thy will be done." I felt strong 
 confidence that God would protect and provide for us, and 
 derived great consolation from the promise, "Lo, I am 
 with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon 
 our tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to 
 awaken the feeling that God was near. 
 
 On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not 
 remove our encampment. 
 
 Towards noon on the 24th, we went forward on our way 
 and crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much de- 
 lay to get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We 
 did not find a suitable place for encamping where we could 
 be accommodated with wood and water until about sunset; 
 and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which 
 had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us 
 with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. 
 The animals of the caravan fled in different directions, 
 some packed and some unpacked. I haa* only time to un- 
 pack my mule and let him go, and it was with much diffi- 
 culty I could hold my horse ; he had become almost 
 frantic under the beating hail, nor did I escape without 
 some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and 
 the thunder was almost one continual roar. After a while 
 the fury of the storm abated, and in the dark we pitched 
 our tent and got our baggage into it, but were rot able to 
 make a fire. We took such supper as we could provide 
 with our coarse bread and bacon, without light and with- 
 out fire, and laid ourselves down to rest. During the night 
 there were several showers which created rivulets, some of 
 which found their way under our tent. Towards morning 
 we slept, and arose somewhat refreshed. 
 
 The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded 
 a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the cara- 
 van to collect together their packs of goods, which were 
 
A FRIENDLY MEETING. 49 
 
 scattered over the prairie. After having spent the fore- 
 noon in drying and adjusting them, we went forw ard and 
 arrived at the Elkhorn, a very considerable river. For 
 conveyance over this river, we constructed a boat of a 
 wagon box, so covered with undressed skins as to make 
 it nearly water tight. The method was very good, and 
 we commenced crossing; but night came on before we fin- 
 ished, and therefore we encamped on the east side. The 
 country here is excellent, and tolerably supplied with 
 wood. 
 
 On the 26th, we continued carrying over our baggage, 
 and finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we 
 traveled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the 
 night. 
 
 On the 27th, we arose very early and pursued our jour- 
 ney, and made good progress until 3, P. M. when we met 
 Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re- 
 turning from the Black Hills. When mountain traders 
 meet under such circumstances, there must be mutual ex- 
 changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated 
 than can be gone through with in the passing " how do 
 you do." The two caravans encamped, in due form, and 
 at a respectful distance from each other. 
 
 Sabbath, 28tb. The caravans continued here through 
 the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to at- 
 tend to devotional exercises in our tent. 
 
 On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance 
 up Shell creek. This section of country, belongs to the 
 Otoes on the east, and the Pawnees on the west. For 
 about twenty-five miles since we crossed the Elkhorn, be- 
 tween this river and the Platte, which are here about ten 
 miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich bottom 
 land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No coun- 
 try could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one 
 3 
 
50 FUTURE PROSPECTS. 
 
 exception, the want of wood land. The latitude is suffi- 
 ciently high to be healthy; and as the climate grows 
 warmer as we travel west, until we approach the snow- 
 topped mountains, there is a degree of mildness, not ex- 
 perienced east of the Alleghany mountains. The time 
 mil come, and probably is not far distant, when this coun- 
 try will be covered with a dense population. The earth 
 was created for the habitation of man, and for a theatre, 
 on which God will manifest his perfections in his moral 
 government among his moral creatures, and therefore the 
 earth, according to divine prediction, shall be given to the 
 people of God. Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers 
 mock, yet God will accomplish his designs, and fulfil every 
 promise contained in his Word. Then this amazing ex- 
 tent of most fertile land will not continue to be the wan- 
 dering ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very 
 few acres under cultivation ; nor will millions of tons of 
 grass grow up to rot upon the ground or to be burned up 
 with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disen- 
 cumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo 
 which once fattened upon these meadows are gone ; and 
 the deer which once cropped the grass have disappeared ; 
 and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall solitude reign 
 here till the end of time ? No : here shall be heard the 
 din of business, and the church-going bell shall sound far 
 and wide. The question is, by whom shall this region of 
 country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indians, under 
 their present circumstances, will never multiply and fill 
 this land. They must be brought under the influence 
 .of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue to 
 melt away, until nothing will remain of them but the relics 
 found in museums, and some historical records. Philan- 
 thropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf. 
 
 We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking 
 
LOUPS FORK OF THE PLATTE. 51 
 
 of the day, by the usual call, "out, out; gear up your 
 mules !" We traveled until one o'clock, P. M., more than 
 eight hours, when we halted and breakfasted. We went 
 again on our way, and came to the Loups fork of the 
 Platte, and stopped for the night. Most of the country 
 over which we traveled to-day, is a rolling prairie. 
 There is nothing in this section of country to interest the 
 geologist. I did not see a single stone, after passing the 
 Papillon to this place, excepting a few small ones at the 
 point where we crossed that stream, and which on that ac- 
 count is called Rockford. It is one of the peculiarities of 
 the dialect of the people in the most western states, to call 
 small stones, rocks. And therefore they speak of throw- 
 ing a rock at a bird, or at a man. There are no forests 
 in these western regions. The meadows spread out al- 
 most without bounds. There are only here and there 
 some clumps of trees; and the rivers and smaller streams 
 are skirted with cotton wood, elms and willows. What- 
 ever propriety there once was, there is none now, in call- 
 ing the Indians, children of the forest. 
 
 The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81°. 
 Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly 
 as I should have done upon a good bed, in a civilized 
 country ; and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to 
 awake in this, or in the eternal world. 
 
 We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form- 
 ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage 
 so as to leave a space in the centre for our lodgings. My 
 bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon 
 this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, 
 and my portmanteau constitutes my pillow. 
 
 We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, 
 and unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we 
 crossed the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. 
 
52 MANNER OF ENCAMPING. 
 
 After going a few miles up the river, we halted for the 
 night. The manner of our encamping, is to form a large 
 hollow square, encompassing an area of about an acre, 
 having the river on one side ; three wagons forming a part 
 of another side, coming down to the river ; and three 
 more in the same manner on the opposite side ; and the 
 packages so arranged in parcels, about three rods apart, as 
 to fill up the rear, and the sides not occupied by the wagons. 
 The horses and mules, near the middle of the day, are 
 turned out under guard, to feed for two hours; and the 
 same again towards night, until after sunset, when they 
 are taken up and brought into the hollow square, and fast- 
 ened with ropes twelve feet long, to pickets driven firmly 
 into the ground. The men are divided into small companies, 
 stationed at the several parcels of goods and wagons, 
 where they wrap themselves in their blankets and rest for 
 the night ; the whole, however, are formed into six divi- 
 sions to keep guard, relieving each other every two hours. 
 This is to prevent hostile Indians from falling upon us by 
 surprise, or coming into the camp by stealth, and taking 
 away either horses or packages of goods. We were per- 
 mitted, by favor, to pitch our tent next to the river, half 
 way between the two wings, which made our situation a 
 little more retired. 
 
 Nothing of special interest occurred on the 2d. On 
 the 3d, we passed the villages cf the Tapnge and Re- 
 publican Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings 
 which appear substantial and somewhat adapted to com- 
 fort. Many of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received 
 us with great civility and kindness. Big Ax, their second 
 chief, had charge of this party. He is a man of dignified 
 appearance, and his countenance is expressive of intelli- 
 gence and benevolence. He is very friendly to white men. 
 These Indians were going out upon their summer hunt, by 
 
PAWNEE FEASTS. 53 
 
 the same route we were pursuing, and were not willing 
 we should go on before them, lest we should frighten away 
 the buffalo. 
 
 They manifested their friendship by inviting us to feasts ; 
 and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being 
 surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big 
 Ax gave the first invitation ; and since it is not customary 
 for those who provide the feast to sit down with their 
 guests, he and his associates sat in dignified silence on one 
 side of the lodge, while those of us who partook of the 
 feast, occupied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax served 
 us on the occasion, and bountifully helped us to boiled corn 
 and beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving 
 offence, we must eat all that is set before us, or take it 
 away ; and Mr. Fontenelle took what remained. In the 
 evening we were invited to two others. The first consist- 
 ed of boiled corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of 
 boiled buffalo meat. The next morning we also gave the 
 principal chiefs a feast, setting before them all the variety 
 which our bacon and coarse bread could furnish, having it 
 in our power to add a di^h of coffee, of which luxury we 
 partook for this once on our whole journey. 
 
 Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet 
 some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which 
 time and flood have made in the channel of this river. 
 Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a 
 hundred feet higher than at present, and it is owing to the 
 yielding nature of the soil that its waters are so very tur- 
 bid. The water of the Loups Fork, however, compara- 
 tively speaking, is quite clear. This section of country 
 offers an interesting field for botanical research. Since 
 crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different species 
 of grass, most of which are entirely new. The flowering 
 plants are very numerous and beautiful, and especially the 
 
54 MISSIONARIES. 
 
 rose, which is found of almost every hue. Thermometer, 
 at noon, 90°. 
 
 July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the 
 states. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of 
 our forefathers : their audiences catch the spirit of patriot- 
 ism. Not so with our company. Having almost expa- 
 triated themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth- 
 day ; and knowing that their days of indulgence would be 
 seasons of reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How 
 suitable would be a rational religious expression of grati- 
 tude to Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which 
 are the common demonstrations of joy on such occasions. 
 Thermometer at 96° at noon. 
 
 On the 5th, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went 
 forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were 
 constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was 
 painful to witness their poor, degraded condition, ignorant 
 of God and salvation, and, for want of a knowledge of 
 their language, to be unable to point them to the Saviour, 
 or teach them their obligations to their Maker, and their 
 duty to turn to Him with their whole heart. I hope and 
 pray that the Pawnee mission may prosper ; that the dis- 
 position which Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go 
 with the Indians and live as they live, may be followed up, 
 until their teaching and influence are felt, and the Indians 
 shall locate themselves upon their lands, under the influence 
 of Christianity and civilization. The mode which Messrs. 
 D. and A. have adopted of going with the Indians where 
 they go, appears to be the right one, and must be generally 
 followed to bring the numerous wandering nations and 
 tribes to the knowledge of Christ. 
 
 It is all important that the missionary should be able to 
 speak to the heathen in the language in which they were 
 born. It is also important that the Indians settle down 
 
INDIAN CHARACTER. 55 
 
 and cultivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do 
 this before they are taught ? An interpreter may be em- 
 ployed for a while, but the missionary must become, as 
 soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he 
 not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and 
 hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial. 
 
 On the 6th, we left the Loups Fork, very early in the 
 morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our 
 course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening, 
 we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued 
 through most of the night j but, protected by our tent, we 
 slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in 
 our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a 
 sensible loss. 
 
 After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up 
 the river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name 
 indicates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility f 
 but still is very good. We were prevented from making 
 the progress we might have done, if the Indians would 
 have permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of 
 the caravan began to complain of the delay, and had rea- 
 son to do so, having nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no 
 way to obtain any thing more before finding buffalo. 
 
 These Indians are not wanting in intellect, however un- 
 cultivated. They are fond of ornaments, and not having 
 the same means of gratifying their vanity as civilized people 
 have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their per- 
 sons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass 
 and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, 
 and claws of wild beasts. The claws of a grizzly bear are 
 an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves 
 are in high estimation. But their favorite and almost uni- 
 versal mode ol ornament is to paint their faces with ver- 
 milion. 
 
56 BIG AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF. 
 
 Like all other heathen, they are ignorant of the benign 
 influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have 
 many interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old 
 men and women. The women are compelled to do all the 
 work — the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few 
 horses, when they journey, they place burdens upon the 
 aged men and women, and even upon the blind and lame — 
 and upon their dogs. I did not see among them a single 
 person having any natural deformity, nor any one who ap- 
 peared to be deficient in common sense. 
 
 July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by 
 me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse 
 with any man and tell him about the Saviour ; from the 
 expression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be 
 instructed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to 
 me, and we could only converse with the language of signs, 
 which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated. 
 
 Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the 
 Indians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them. 
 Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if 
 they had not consented. 
 
 Towards the night of the 10th, we had an unusual storm 
 of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules 
 could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all direc- 
 tions. The whole caravan was scattered over the prairie; 
 but when the storm abated, they were again collected 
 without much difficulty, and nothing was lost. If any 
 hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have 
 been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the 
 Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for 
 our defense. The scene was alarming, and yet grand — 
 sublime. 
 
 Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God 
 is our preserver ; how desirable it is, that his mercies 
 
ATTEMPT TO MURDER. 57 
 
 should be had in grateful remembrance, and that the por- 
 tion of time, which he has set apart as holy, should be ob- 
 served as such. The caravan traveled a part of the day, 
 but were under the necessity of stopping in consequence of 
 rain, which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice 
 that various providences have thus far prevented them 
 from traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has 
 been one of great confusion and wickedness. In conse- 
 quence of the men being drenched with rain, W T hiskey was 
 dealt' out freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of 
 them became much excited, and one, who took an active 
 part in killing Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to 
 have pierced his heart ; but the knife, striking a rib, turned 
 aside and only made a deep flesh wound. 
 
 I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed 
 a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in 
 his tabernacle. 
 
 July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor 
 a solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, 
 that have the appearance of being under good cultivation. 
 We see no fields of grain, nor habitations of civilized men, 
 but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some 
 of which appeared to be gregarious. Often, acres are di- 
 versified with a great variety of colors and species. 
 
 There are two species of plants which are said to be a 
 sovereign remedy for the poison of the rattle-snake, the 
 virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing. 
 One of our men was bitten in the foot, and, before we 
 knew it, the poison had so far progressed, that both the 
 foot and leg had become much inflamed and very painful. 
 One of these plants was applied to the parts affected, and 
 at once the man was convalescent, and, in a few hours, 
 well. The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue 
 flag, except that they are serrated. The healing proper- 
 
58 BUFFALO. 
 
 ties are contained in the roots, which are bruised and ap- 
 plied to the affected parts. Rattle-snakes are not numer- 
 ous. These and other reptiles, are prevented from multi- 
 plying, by the fires which every year run over the prai- 
 ries. 
 
 On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer- 
 fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to 
 men whose very life now depended on procuring game,-it 
 was no indifferent event. From the immense herds of 
 these wild animals, dispersed over the beautiful fields of 
 nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although sev- 
 eral were seen to day, yet our hunters were not success- 
 ful in obtaining many. 
 
 I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware 
 that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to 
 our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan- 
 cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the 
 blood gushes out. When the caravan is in close compa- 
 ny, there being about two hundred horses and mules, the 
 number of the flies are so divided that they are more toler- 
 able ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated from 
 the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one oc- 
 casion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over 
 a deep muddy stream of water, ihey came around my horse 
 in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged 
 to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left 
 alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them. 
 The next day we journeyed as usual, and about noon 
 arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd 
 of buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of ex- 
 cellent meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, 
 neck, and heads, make a very majestic appearance, anil if 
 their natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they 
 are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure 
 
ARICKARA INDIANS. 59 
 
 any person, except in self-defense when wounded and 
 closely pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although 
 they look clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a 
 horse of more than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any 
 conside: able time. 
 
 The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is 
 very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight; but 
 at a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom « 
 lan<Is, bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scene- 
 ry. The entire absence of forests in the large space of 
 country around, is a deficiency which cannot be easily re- 
 medied ; but probably forest trees might be cultivated to 
 advantage. Is it not highly probable that mineral coal 
 will be found here, as well as upon the prairies in the wes- 
 tern states ? We found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, 
 and probably shall not for some days to come ; and there- 
 fore we have been under the necessity of making our fires 
 with the dry dung of the buffalo. The most thoroughly 
 weather-beaten is selected, and proves to be a better sub- 
 stitute for common fuel than we had anticipated. Al- 
 though we are now where we had fears of finding: the 
 Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief has been men- 
 tioned, and who have been residing near this place for 
 several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we 
 left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone far up 
 the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States 
 dragoons, under command of Col. Dodge, who are on their 
 way to call them to account for their conduct towards 
 white men, and to form with them a treaty of peace, al- 
 though they are not fond of treaties when peace is to be 
 observed by only one of the parties. They intend to keep 
 out of the way of the dragoons, and therefore we hope to 
 pass unmolested. 
 
 We took our eourse up the north-west Fork of the Platte, 
 
60 * DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. 
 
 and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual 
 form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack 
 of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about 
 us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in 
 order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We 
 all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the sen- 
 tinel's fire, we might in less tharl a moment be ready for 
 action ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the 
 first breaking of the day we were awakened by the cus- 
 tomary call of the guide. 
 
 We saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, 
 and nearer than previously. They are less shy than those 
 we first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but 
 less beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have 
 seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous, 
 and their speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever 
 seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase; 
 for the dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not 
 follow more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, 
 looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally 
 take some by coming upon them by stealth. When they 
 are surprised, they start forward a very small space, then 
 turn, and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at 
 the object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half 
 whistling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon 
 wings as upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far 
 more beautiful. Though they are of different colors, yet 
 they are generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent 
 eye. Their flesh is good for fjod, and about equal to 
 venison. 
 
 July 17th. W T e did not go on our way as early this morn- 
 ing as usual, having been detained by breaking an axle- 
 tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming more 
 hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to ihe river* 
 
SHOOTING BUFFALO. 61 
 
 Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and 
 they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pasture. 
 The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped a lit- 
 tle below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars scat- 
 tered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel. 
 
 Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early 
 hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From 
 the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c. 
 it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of coun- 
 try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New 
 England States. As Ave advance, the flowering plants are 
 becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the 
 day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more 
 cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not 
 perceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far 
 from the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown 
 color is found in bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which 
 might be easily worked and to any extent. Very small 
 black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have 
 been numerous and very annoying, and for several days 
 we rode with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces 
 to protect us from their poisonous bite. 
 
 July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and 
 our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at 
 them ; but it was w r ell for the buffalo that they made poor 
 shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good ccnscience, 
 to trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, 
 yet for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my 
 horse in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, 
 and would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, 
 had I not held him in check. At that time, not being suf- 
 ficiently acquainted with this species of amusement, and 
 intending to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order 
 to take a more steady aim than I could otherwise have 
 
62 BADGERS PRAIRIE DOGS. 
 
 done; and by so doing, as our guide afterwards informed 
 ire, placed myself in imminent danger ; for the animal, 
 when wounded, ofl en turns upon his antagonist to retaliate 
 his injuries. Fortunately, though I wounded one, he did 
 not rise upon me, and I returned to the caravan uncon- 
 scious of danger. 
 
 Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the 
 many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell- 
 ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen 
 only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their 
 burrows, and run into them on the least approach of dan- 
 ger. The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of 
 the marmot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a 
 silvery gray color, with short legs, and its whole aspect 
 is interesting. I did not have an opportunity to learn 
 many of its habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, 
 abounds in this section of country. It takes its name, not 
 from its appearance, but from its barking, which is like 
 that of a very small dog. It is of a brown color, and its 
 fur is of superior fineness. It is very shy and difficult to 
 be taken. Was it not for this last circumstance, I should 
 think it might be an important article of traffic. 
 
 We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting 
 bluffs composed of indurated clay, situated on a wide spread 
 plain ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, 
 and of almost every imaginable form. Some appeared like 
 strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately 
 edifices with lofty towers. I had never before seen any 
 thing like them of clay formation. And what adds to 
 their beauty is, that the clay of which they are composed, 
 is nearly white. Such is the smoothness and whiteness of 
 the perpendicular sides and offsets ; and such the regularity 
 of their straight and curved lines, tbat one can hardly be- 
 lieve that they are not the work of ait. 
 

 THE OLD CASTLE. 63 
 
 It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at 
 noon, at 90°, and at 5 o'clock, P. M. at 100°. There 
 were no prairie winds as usual. Almost. every day, winds 
 blow over the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. 
 They generally commence about eight in the morning, and 
 continue through the day. These winds render the travel- 
 ing comfortable, although the thermometer may range high. 
 We encamped to-day in the neighborhood of a great 
 natural curiosity, which for the sake of a name I shall call 
 the old castle. It is situated upon the south side of the 
 Platte, on a Plain, some miles distant from any elevated 
 land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more 
 than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width 
 of the river, all the appearance of an old, enormous, build- 
 ing, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing 
 walls, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and al- 
 most the very windows ; and large guard-houses, star ding 
 some rods in front of the main building. You uncon- 
 sciously look around for the enclosures, but they are all 
 swept away by the lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but 
 they have disappeared ; all is silent and solitary. Although 
 you correct your imagination, and call to remembrance, 
 that you are beholding the work of nature, yet before you 
 are aware, the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity 
 is excited to know who built this fabric, and what has be- 
 come of the by-gone generations. I found it impossible to 
 divest myself of such impressions. The longer and the 
 more minutely I examined it, the more I saw to admire ; 
 and it reminded me of those descriptions of power and 
 grandeur in ruins, which enliven the pages of European 
 tourists. 
 
 Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's 
 wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but 1 should 
 
64 BEAGON HILL. 
 
 say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance 
 to what, was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to 
 have a near view, although in a land of dangers, I con- 
 cluded to take an assistant and pass over the river to it. 
 The river where we crossed was about a. mile wide, 
 shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it with- 
 out any great difficulty. We rode about three miles 
 over a level plain and came to the base. The distance 
 from the other side of the river did not appear more than 
 a mile, so deceptive are distances over plains without any 
 landmarks. This beacon hill has a conical base of about 
 half n mile in circumference, and is one hundred and fifty 
 feet in height; and above this is a perpendicular column, 
 twelve feet square, and eighty feet high ; making the 
 whole height about two hundred and thirty feet. We left 
 our horses at the br.se, and ascended to the perpendicular 
 shaft. It is formed of indurated clay or marl, and some 
 parts are petrified. It is of a light chocolate, or rufous 
 color, in some parts white. Near the top were handsome 
 stalactites, at which my assistant shot, and broke off some 
 pieces ; I took a small specimen. We descended, and, 
 having finished my survey, had just mounted our horses, 
 when we saw two bands of buffalo, six or eight hundred 
 in number, coming full speed towards us, taking their 
 course down the river. We knew somebody must be pur- 
 suing them, and as, from indications for two days past, 
 we had suspected Indians near, we thought it would be 
 safest for us to make and secure a speedy retreat to the 
 caravan, and set off in haste for the river, which at the 
 nearest point was two miles distant. Very soon we saw 
 a man on horseback coming rapidly towards us — he 
 stopped and gave a signal for others behind him to hasten 
 on, and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. 
 
65 
 
 We put our horses to their utmost speed, and when we 
 thought our. retreat to the river fully secured, we stopped 
 and took an observation with a large spy-glass, which we 
 had taken the precaution to have with us, and found they 
 were white men, who had come from a fort of the Ameri- 
 can Fur Company at the Black Hills, to meet the caravan. 
 Mr. Fontenelle, the commander of the caravan, saw the 
 movement, was alarmed for our safety, and came out in all 
 haste, with a number of armed men to our assistance. But 
 all resulted in friends meeting friends. There were some 
 Ogallallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the 
 evening. Thermometer 90°. 
 
 On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped 
 near Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high 
 range of land running from south to north. They are very 
 near the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of no- 
 tice, there is a pass through the range a short distance 
 back from the river, the width of a common road, with 
 perpendicular sides two or three hundred feet high. It 
 appears as though a part of the bluffs had been cut off, 
 and moved a few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, 
 the naturalist would desire weeks to examine the interest- 
 ing scenery of this section of country, and the more minute 
 his examination, the more would he find to gratify his cu- 
 riosity. 
 
 This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so 
 that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some 
 places are large quantities in a crystalized state. Our 
 horses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute 
 for common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90°. 
 
 While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our 
 horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we 
 were preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner^ 
 
66 THE OGALLALLAHS. 
 
 we were alarmed with the call, "Secure your animals! 
 secure your animals !" I looked around to discover the 
 cause of the alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half 
 distance, some thirty or forty Indians coming on horse- 
 back at full speed. We had not more than half se- 
 cured our animals and prepared for defense, when the In- 
 dians were close upon us ; whether friends or foes we 
 could not tell, until they were nearly within rifle shot, 
 when, according to the customary expression of friend- 
 ship, they fired their guns into the air, and then rushed 
 into our camp, and exchanged salutations of peace. They 
 were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their chiefs, clad in 
 their war habiliments, and presenting somewhat of a ter- 
 rific appearance. The chiefs dined with us, and were very 
 talkative among themselves; for, not having any good 
 interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. 
 Every thing, however went on pleasantly, and to mutual 
 satisfaction. They told us their whole village was only a 
 few hours' travel ahead of us, going to the Black Hills for 
 the purpose of trading. 
 
 On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the mid- 
 dle of the day, as there was less wind than usual. Ther- 
 mometer 92°. Towards evening, we came to the main 
 village of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two 
 thousand persons. These villages are not stationary, but 
 move from place to place, as inclination or convenience 
 may dictate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily 
 transported. They are constructed of eight or ten poles 
 about eighteen feet long, set up in a circular form, the 
 small ends fastened together, making an apex, and the 
 large ends spread out, so as to enclose an area of about 
 twenty feet in diameter. The whole is covered with their 
 coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they 
 
A SABBATH AMONG THEM. 67 
 
 are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a 
 hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass 
 out. All that they have for household furniture, clothing, 
 and skins for beds, is deposited around according to their 
 ideas of propriety and convenience. Generally not more 
 than one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest 
 looking Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally 
 tall and well proportioned ; the women are trim, and less 
 corpulent than is common among the Indian women, and 
 all were w T ell dressed and cleanly. They came around us 
 in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity to see what- 
 ever we had. I did not know why, but my boots were 
 particularly examined ; probably they had never seen any 
 before, as moccasons are w T orn, not only by Indians, but 
 also by traders and hunters. 
 
 Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to 
 the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the 
 Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an 
 opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- 
 lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and 
 observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason 
 why I was differently employed from others. I endeavor- 
 ed to make them understand by the language of signs, that 
 I was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to 
 worship him. After spending some time in teaching them 
 to read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn, 
 which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, 
 and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, 
 we want to know whit all this means. My spirit w T as 
 pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand 
 their language, that I might tell them about Christ, the 
 only Saviour. The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, 
 why will not some of the nfany Christian young men of 
 
68 BLACK HILLS. 
 
 the east, exercise so much self-denial, as to come and teach 
 them the way of salvation 1 What Christian would not 
 glory in such labor ? And if there should be any trials 
 attendant on the enterprise, would they not, like St. Paul, 
 glory in tribulations ? 
 
 At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile 
 and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped 
 near the fort in our usual form. 
 
BLACK HILLS. 69 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians 
 for instruction — met the chiefs in council — re-commenced our jour- 
 ney for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red 
 Bute — traces of grizzly bears — geoFogy — Rock Independence — 
 Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains — 
 " thunder spirits' 7 gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado. 
 
 The Black Hills do not derive their name from any 
 thing peculiar in the color of the soil and rocks of which 
 they are composed, but are so called from being covered 
 with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance 
 when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the riv- 
 ers and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher 
 lands and hills, it is thin and rather barren, and in many 
 parts full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action 
 of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur 
 of the Rocky Mountains is seen from this place, which is 
 forty or fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand 
 feet high. 
 
 At this place the caravan halted, and according to im- 
 memorial usage, the men were allowed a "day of indul- 
 gence," as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits 
 as much as they please, and conduct as they choose. Not 
 unfrequently the day terminates with a catastrophe of some 
 kind, and to-day one of the company shot another with 
 the full intention to have killed him. The ball entered 
 the back, and came out at the side. The wounded man 
 exclaimed, " I am a dead man ;" but after a pause, said, 
 "No, I am not hurt." The other immediately seized a rifle 
 
70 BUFFALO DANCE. 
 
 to finish the work, hut was prevented hy the bystanders, 
 who wrested it from him and discharged it into the air. 
 
 July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet 
 day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse- 
 quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so 
 high yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The 
 men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and 
 could scarcely be roused to the business of making repairs 
 and arrangements for the long journey yet before us. The 
 Indians were active, and manifested a disposition to be so- 
 ciable and kind, and also to open a trade with us in vari- 
 ous articles, such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; 
 and desired in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c. 
 
 Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer 
 stood in the middle of the day at 9S°, but the heat was 
 relieved by the usual prairie winds. 
 
 On the 29th, the Oga'lallah Indians who accompanied 
 us, had a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which 
 I could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from 
 some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de- 
 pended on these rites, or whether the custom originated in 
 the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro- 
 bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit- 
 nessed the first mentioned ceremony. In the buffalo dance, 
 a large number of young men, dressed with the skins of 
 the neck and head of buffalos with their horns on, moved 
 round in a dancing march. They shook their heads, imi- 
 tated the low bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. 
 At the same time men and women sung a song, accom- 
 panied with the beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say 
 I was much amused to see how well they could imitate 
 brute beasts, while ignorant of God and salvation. The 
 impressive enquiry was constantly on my mind, what will 
 become of their immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating 
 
THE OGALLALLAHS. 71 
 
 beasts, and old gray-headed men marshaling the dance ! 
 and enlightened white men encouraging it by giving them 
 intoxicating spirits, as a reward for their good performance. 
 I soon retired, and was pleased to find that only a small 
 number of the Indians took any part in the dance. 
 
 An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, 
 came to me again to-day, accompanied by others and mani- 
 fested a desire that I should again instruct him. I endeav- 
 ored to communicate to his mind some ideas of God, and 
 sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell us of the night." He 
 and those with him, shook hands with me as a token of 
 their satisfaction, and left me. He soon returned, howev- 
 er, bringing others, that they too, might hear what he had 
 heard with so much apparent pleasure, and they again 
 shook hands with me. This was several times repeated. 
 These Indians appear not only friendly to white men, but 
 kind in their intercourse with each other, and in no in- 
 stance did I witness any quarrels among them. Their 
 minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their persons are 
 finely formed, and many of them are truly " nature's no- 
 blemen." The women are graceful, and their voices are 
 soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised to see tall 
 young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode, walking 
 arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I had not ex- 
 pected to see among those whom we term " savages." It 
 is true that they are heathen in all the guilt of sin, and 
 destitute of the knowledge of God and the hopes of the 
 gospel, but in politeness and decency, as well as in many 
 other respects, they are very unlike the frontier Indians, who 
 have been corrupted and degraded by their acquaintance 
 with ardent spirits, and wicked white men. 
 
 On the 30th, I met in council with the chiefs of this 
 tribe, to lay before them the object of our tour, and to 
 know if they would wish to have missionaries sent among 
 
72 ASCENDING THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 them to teach them to read and write, and especially how 
 to worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with 
 the proposal, and said they would do all they could to 
 make their condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, 
 that this community of the Sioux would be a promising 
 field for laborers. They are inquisitive, and their language 
 is distinct and sonorous. 
 
 On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°. 
 August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re- 
 commenced our journey, and the next point to which we 
 directed our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where 
 the general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were left 
 at the fort ot the Black Hills, and all our goods were packed 
 upon mules. Several of our company went out into vari- 
 ous parts of the country to hunt and trap, but as many 
 more joined us for the mountains, so that our number is 
 not diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and 
 Mr. Fitz Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. 
 We had received during our journey to this place, many 
 kind attentions from Mr. F., as well as the privilege of tra- 
 veling under his protection, for which we offered him a re- 
 muneration, but he declined it, saying, " If any one is in- 
 debted, it is myself, for you have saved my life, and the 
 lives of my men." t We shall gratefully remember their 
 kindness. 
 
 Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo- 
 tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's 
 sanctuary. 
 
 We found on the 3rd, but very little grass for our horses 
 and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil, 
 the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the gra- 
 zing of numerous herds of buffalos and antelopes. To 
 save distance in following the bends of the river, we passed 
 to-day over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I 
 
ANTHRACITE COAL. 
 
 73 
 
 had found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose 
 specimens of anthracite coal on the banks of streams, but 
 to-day I found a regular "cropping out" of coal, the same 
 to all appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of 
 Pennsylvania. The existence of a coal basin here is also 
 confirmed by indications of iron ore. Certainly an invalua- 
 ble substance, should it prove abundant, to the future in- 
 habitants of a country so destitute of other fuel. This was 
 the fiist discovery of coal in this region. A range of 
 mountains, a spur of which is seen from Larama's fork ina 
 the Black Hills, runs parallel with the river, ten or fifteen 
 miles distant, and some of the peaks are very high. 
 
 August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. 
 I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities; 
 also, in one place, yellow sand si one of remarkably fine 
 texture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent pur- 
 pose for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows 
 in great quantities in this region, where the soil is gravelly 
 and barren. Some of it grows eight or ten feet high, and 
 four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to 
 traveling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any 
 animal will taste it, unless compelled by extreme hunger. 
 The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which 
 render its flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw 
 some granite to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite 
 in parts of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before 
 in boulders was of the red cast, like that which is found 
 about Lake Superior. 
 
 On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of the day, 
 and proceeded on our route, making forced marches through 
 this barren region. Encamped towards night at a place 
 called the Red Bute, which is a high bluff of land, re- 
 sembling red ochre in color, but composed of clay some- 
 what indurated and argillaceous sand-stone. This is a 
 4 
 
74 GRIZZLY BEARS. 
 
 central place for Indians traveling east or west, north or 
 south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, along 
 which we have been traveling, comes from a southern 
 direction, the head of which is about one hundred and 
 fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to 
 the Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which comes from 
 the west. We saw, to-day, tracks of grizzly bears, which 
 were perfectly fresh, and were indicative of their formida- 
 ble size and strength. One, with two large cubs, passed 
 out of some gooseberry and currant bushes near the river, 
 as we proceeded around to an open spot of ground for an 
 encamping place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man of 
 undoubted veracity, told me he saw several buffalos passing 
 near some bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed, and 
 the bear with one stroke tore three ribs from a buffalo and 
 laid it dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these bears, 
 you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not true, 
 unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them. If 
 you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, 
 withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as 
 well as upon other beasts. 
 
 August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming 
 more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw 
 to-day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the 
 most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld. It was semi 
 transparent and of a deep green hue, very much resembling 
 specimens of emerald which I saw in the mineralogical 
 cabinet at New Haven. I regretted the necessity which 
 a long journey, yet before me, imposed of passing by op- 
 portunities for making collections. 
 
 Passed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the 
 first massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, 
 which divides North America, and forms, together with 
 its barrens on each side, a natural division. This rock 
 
ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 75 
 
 takes its name from the circumstance of a company of fur 
 traders suspending their journey, and here observing, in 
 due form, the anniversary of our national freedom. It is 
 an immensely huge rock of solid granite, entirely bare, and 
 covering several acres. Advancing a little distance, we 
 came to a stream of no inconsiderable size, which has its 
 origin in the mountains, and to which the name of Sweet- 
 water has been given on account of its purity. We fol- 
 lowed up the course of this river for several days. In one 
 place it passes a small branch of the mountains, through 
 a narrow chasm only thirty or forty feet wide, and more 
 than three hundred feet deep. The caravan passed around 
 the point of this mountain, and to obtain a better prospect 
 of this natural curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A 
 deep- toned roar is heard as the river dashes its way through 
 the rocky passage. The sight is soon intercepted by its 
 winding course, and the darkness caused by the narrow- 
 ness and deepness of the avenue. 
 
 We passed, to-day, several small lakes of crystalized ep- 
 Fom salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is 
 evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality 
 and depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, 
 I was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be 
 beneath, whether salt in a less solid state than on the sur- 
 face, or quicksand, yet large quantities of good quality 
 might be easily collected. 
 
 The mountains are indeed rocky mountains. They are 
 rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, except a 
 few cedars growing out of the crevices near their base. 
 Their tops are covered with perpetual snow, which are- 
 seen on our left and before us. As we advanced, the at- 
 mosphere was increasingly more chilling through the night 
 and most of the day, except the middle, which to-day was 
 very warm ; the thermometer standing at 84°. 
 
76 APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Sabbalb, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of 
 the privileges of the sanctuary and its ordinances, as well 
 as I could by read ng, and recalling to mind portions of 
 the scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, 
 but neglected catechism. One net ds to be on heathen 
 ground to realize the solitariness of absence from the social 
 worship, where 
 
 " The cheerful songs and solemn vows 
 Make their communion sweet." 
 
 On the 10th, cold winds w T ere felt from the snow-topped 
 mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage 
 throigh these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the 
 ascent and descent, that 1 should not have known we 
 were approaching them, had it not been that as. we ad- 
 vanced the atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at 
 length we saw the perpetual snows upon our right hand 
 and upon our left, elevated many thousand feet above us — 
 in some places ten or twelve thousand. The highest parts 
 of the mountains are found by measurement, to be eigh- 
 teen thousand feet above the level of the sea.* This val- 
 ley was not discovered until some years since. Mr. Hunt 
 and his party, more than twenty year.- ago, went near, but 
 did not find it, though in search of some favorable passage. 
 It varies in width fiom two to fifteen miles; and foil* w- 
 ing its i ourse, the distance through the mountains is abent 
 one hundred miles, or four days' journey. Though there 
 are some elevations and depressions in this valley, yet 
 comparatively speaking, it is level ; and the summit, where 
 the waters divide which flow into the At'antic and into 
 the Pacific, is about six thousand feet aLo%e the level of 
 
 *M\ P ; >tiglas, an Ei*gt*sh nitu-alist, wh > spent much rime west (if 
 thes ; mountains, and measured some of ihe highest points, two hun- 
 dred or more m"e ; north of this valley, estimated them at eighteen thou- 
 sand feet above the level of the ocean. 
 
THUNDER SPIRITS DEPARTED. 77 
 
 the ocean. There would be no difficulty in ihe way of 
 const: ucting a rail-road fiom the- Atlantic to the Pacific 
 ocean. There is no greater difficulty, in the whole dis- 
 tance, than has already been oveicome in passing the 
 Green mountains, between Boston and Albany ; ami piob- 
 ably the time may not be far distant, when trips will be 
 made across the continent, as they have been made to the 
 Niagara Palls, to see nature's wonders. 
 
 In parsing the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we 
 heard none of those '* successive reports resembling the 
 discharge of several pieces of artillery," mentioned by 
 some authors as common " in the most calm and serene 
 weather, at all times of the day or night :" nor did we 
 v itness " lightning and thunder, pealing from clouds gath- 
 ering round the summits of the hills" or mountains. " The 
 thunder spirits, who fabricate storms and tempests," ap- 
 pear to have closed their labors, and the Indian tribes no 
 longer " hang offerings on the trees to propitiate the invi- 
 sible lords of the mountains." 
 
 The geology presents some variety ; for while the main 
 ridge of the mountains is granite, yet, to-day, parallel 
 ridges of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They 
 appear to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating 
 force has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different 
 distances from each other, running from east-north-east, to 
 west-south-west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some 
 have a slight dip to the south. 
 
 We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon, 
 and the men were called to arms. They all rus'ied forth 
 full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger. 
 Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill at the 
 foot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an 
 indication that others were near, which was the fact 3 but 
 he and they retreated. 
 
78 BIG SANDY RIVER. 
 
 August 11th. The last night was very cold — we had 
 a heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the ther- 
 mometer stood at 24°. Our early morning ride was not 
 very comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our 
 men who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses 
 and mules began to show that constant labor without suf- 
 ficient food, was not favorable to strength, and some of 
 them failed. To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, 
 one of the upper branches of the Colorado, which empties 
 into the gulf of California. Along its bank are some 
 Norway and pitch pine, and a very few small white pines, 
 and clumps of common poplar. In some of the low vales 
 there were beautiful little fresh roses, which bloomed 
 amidst the desolations around. "How ornamental are 
 the works of nature ! She seems to decorate them all, as 
 if each spot was a garden, in which God might perchance 
 walk, as once in Eden." 
 
THE RENDEZVOUS. 79 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and hunters — four Indian nations — 
 Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called — surgical opera- 
 tions — an interview with the Flathead, and. Nez Perce chiefs — their 
 anxiety for religious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman — Sho- 
 shones and. Utaws — mountain life. 
 
 . After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a 
 branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first 
 breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches 
 Although we were emerging from the mountains, yet 
 peaks covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost 
 every direction, and the temperature of the air was un- 
 comfortably cold. I found to-day some beautiful calce- 
 dony, of which I took a specimen, and also green stone, 
 quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the afternoon, we 
 came to the Green river, a branch of the Colorado, in lati- 
 tude 42° 50', where the caravan hold their rendezvous. 
 This is a widely extended, pleasant valley, with a soil suffi- 
 ciently fertile for cultivation, if the climate was not so 
 cold. Like the country we have passed through, it is 
 almost entirely prairie, with some woods skirting the 
 streams of water. 
 
 The American Fur Company have between two and 
 three hundred men constantly in and about the moun- 
 tains, engaged in trading, hunting and trapping. These 
 all assemble at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravar, 
 bring in their furs, and take new supplies for the coming 
 year, of clothing, ammunition, and goods for trade with 
 
80 SURGICAL OPERATIONS. 
 
 the Indians. But few of these men ever return to their 
 country and friends. Most of them are constantly in debt 
 to the company, and are unwilling to return without a 
 fortune; and year after year passes away, while they are 
 hoping in vain for better success. 
 
 Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four 
 different nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and 
 Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange 
 furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer- 
 chandize. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in 
 the Flat Head Indians to give them their name. Who 
 gave it them, or for what reason, is not known. The 
 name given them by the Nez Perces, which is Sailep, does 
 not signify flathead. Some suppose it was given them in 
 derision for not flattening their heads, as the Chenooks 
 and some other nations do, near the shores of the Pacific. 
 It may be so, but how will those who indulge this imagi- 
 nation, account for the Nez Perces being so called, since 
 they do not pierce their noses ? This name could not be 
 given them in derision, because those near the Pacific, 
 who flatten their heads also pierce their noses. That those 
 names have been given by white men, is evident, since 
 they do not call each other by the names which signify 
 either flathead or pierced nose. 
 
 While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was 
 called to perform some very important surgical opeiations. 
 !He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the 
 back of Capt Bridger, which was received in a skirmish, 
 three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a 
 difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the 
 point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous sub- 
 stance had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the 
 operation with great self-possession and perseverance; 
 
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS. 81 
 
 and bis patient manifested equal firmness. The Indians 
 looked on meanwhile with countenances indicating won- 
 der, and in their own peculiar manner expressed great as- 
 tonishment when it was extracted. The Doctor also ex- 
 tracted another arrow from the shoulder of one the hun- 
 ters, which had Ijeen there two years and a half. His 
 reputation becoming favorably established, calls for medi- 
 cal and surgical aid were almost incessant. 
 
 After spending a few days in collecting and digesting 
 information in regard to this country, and the condition of 
 the people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs 
 of the Nez Perees and Flatheads, and laid before them the 
 object of our appointment, and explained to them the be-, 
 nevolent desires of Christians concerning them. We then 
 enquired whether they wished to have teachers come 
 among them, and instruct them in the knowledge of God, 
 his worship, and the way to be saved ; and what they 
 would do to aid them in their labors. The oldest ehief 
 of theFlatheads arose, and said, " he was old, and did not 
 expect to know much more; he was deaf and could not 
 hear, but his heart was made glad, very glad, to see what 
 he had never seen before, a man near to God," (meaning 
 a minister of the gospel.) Next arose [nsala,the most in- 
 fluential chief among the Flathead nation, and said ''he had 
 heard, that a man near to God was coming to visit them, 
 and he, with some of his people, together with some white 
 men, went out three d.iys' journey to meet him, but failed 
 of finding the caravan. A war party of Crow Indians 
 came upon them in the night, and after a short battle, 
 though no lives were lost, they took away some of their 
 horses, and one from him wh eh he greatly loved, but now 
 lie forge's all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near 
 
 to God." 
 
 4* 
 
82 dr. whitman's proposal. 
 
 The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish, 
 arose, and said, " he had heard from white men a little 
 about God, which had only gone into his ears ; he wished 
 to know enough to have it go down into his heart; to in- 
 fluence his life, and teach his people." Others spoke to 
 the same import, and they all made as many promises as 
 we could desire. 
 
 The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi- 
 sing field for missionary labor, white for the harvest, and 
 the indications of divine providence in regard to it are 
 made plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge. 
 Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and 
 prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, we 
 came to the conclusion, that, though many other important 
 stations might be found, this would be one. So desirable 
 did this object appear, that Dr. Whitman proposed to re- 
 turn with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out 
 with him the next year, with the then returning caravan, 
 and establish a mission among these people, and by so 
 doing, save at least a year, in bringing the gospel among 
 them. In view of the importance of the object, I readily 
 consented to the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians 
 the remainder of the exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on 
 further consideration, felt some misgivings about leaving 
 me, lest, if any calamity should befall me, he should be 
 blamed by the Christian public. I expressed my desire 
 that no disquietude should be felt for me ; for w r e could 
 not safely go together without divine protection, and with 
 it I was secure in any situation. This confidence inspired 
 me with all the courage I needed, and composed my mind 
 in regard to coming dangers, as it had sustained me under 
 those that were past. 
 
 We met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I 
 
SHOSHONES. 83 
 
 staled to them the contemplated return of Dr. Whitman. 
 They were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and 
 to send a convoy with me from their country to Fort 
 Walla Walla, on the Columbia River. They selected 
 one of their principal young men for my particular assis- 
 tant, as long as I should have need of him, who was called 
 Kentuc ; and I engaged a voyageur, who understood En- 
 glish, and also the Nez Perce language sufficiently well 
 to interpret common business, and some of the plain 
 truths of our holy religion, to go with me while I should 
 continue with these tribes. 
 
 We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones 
 and Utaws to propose to them the subject of missions, lest 
 we should excite expectations which would not soon be 
 fulfilled. We were the more cautious upon this subject, 
 because it is difficult to make an Indian understand the 
 difference between a proposal and a promise. The Sho- 
 shones are a very numerous nation, and appear friendly. 
 They are probably the most destitute of the necessaries of 
 life of any Indians west of the mountains. Their country 
 lies south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, 
 and is said to be the most barren of any part of the coun- 
 try in these western regions. They are often called 
 Snakes and Root Diggers, from being driven to these re- 
 sorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year they suffer 
 greatly from hunger and cold. They are more squalid 
 than any Indians I have seen ; but their poverty does not 
 lessen their need of salvation through Christ. The Utaws 
 are decent in appearance, and their country, which is 
 toward Santa Fe, is said to be tolerably good. 
 
 A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous, 
 and when all the mountain men had assembled, another 
 day of indulgence was granted to them, in which all re- 
 
84 MOUNTAIN LIFE. 
 
 straint was laid aside. These days are the climax of the 
 hunter's happiness. I will relate an occurrence which 
 took place near evening, as a specimen of mountain hfe. 
 A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great 
 bully of the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded 
 rifle, and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, 
 or Dutchman to fight him in single combat. Kit d rson, 
 an American, told him if he wished to die, he would accept 
 the challenge. Shunar defied him. C. mounted his hoise, 
 and with a loaded pistol, rushed into close contact, and 
 both almost at the same instant fired. C.'s ball entered 
 S.'s hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the 
 arm above the elbow. Shunar's ball p. ssed over the 
 head of Carson ; and while he went for another pistol, 
 Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such 
 scenes, sometimes from passion, and sometimes for amuse- 
 ment, make ihe pastime of their wild and wandering life. 
 They appear to have sought for a place where, as they 
 would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny 
 of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of vir- 
 tue. 'J he fruits are visible in all the varied forms, which 
 human nature, without the restraints of chil government, 
 and cultivated, polished society, may be supp ised to pro- 
 duce. In the absence of all those motives, which they 
 would feel in moral and religious society, refinement, 
 pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even con- 
 science, give place to unrest ruined dissoluteness. Their 
 toils, and privations are so great, that they more readily 
 compensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as 
 in their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adapted 
 to give them pleasure. They disdain the common-place 
 phrases of pn fanity "which prevail among the impious 
 vulgar in civilized countiies, and have many set phrazes, 
 
DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES. 85 
 
 which they appear to have manufactured among them- 
 selves, and which in their imprecations, they bring into 
 almost every ser.tence and on all occasions. By varying 
 the tones of their voices, they make them expressive of 
 joy, hope, grief, and anger. In their broils among them- 
 selves, which do not happen every day, they would not be 
 ungenerous. They would see u fair play," and would 
 " spare the last eye ;" and wou'd not tolerate murder, 
 unless drunkenness or great provocation could be pleaded 
 =in extenuation. 
 
 Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been 
 lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon 
 them, in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It 
 is said they have sold them packs of cards at high prices, 
 calling them the Bible ; and have told them, if they 
 should refuse to give white men wives, God would be an- 
 gry with them and punish them eternally; and on almost 
 any occasion when their wishes have been resisted, they 
 have threatened them with the wrath of God. If these 
 things are true in many instances, yet from personal ob- 
 servation, I should believe their more common mode of 
 accomplishing their wishes has been by flattery and pre- 
 sents; for the mo>t of them squander away their wages 
 in ornaments for their women and children. 
 
 During our s r ay, I witnessed a scene of mourning, 
 among the Shoshones, on the occasion of the death of a 
 chief who was killed by ihe Rapahoes, the news of which 
 had but just arrived. The women made loud lamenta- 
 tions, cut and disfigured themselves, until the blood ran 
 down their faces and scantily clad bodies. 
 
 The Indians, with whom I am to travel, ha*, ing ap- 
 pointed the 21st to commence the journey for their coun- 
 try, a few days were occupied in writing to my family, 
 
86 FROSTY NIGHTS. 
 
 the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- 
 sions, and other friends ; and also in making prepara- 
 tions for my journey to Walla Walla. While we con- 
 tinued in this place, though in the middle of the day it 
 was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice was fre- 
 quently formed. 
 
DEPARTURE OF DOCT. WHITMAN. 87 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Part with my associate — arrive at head waters of the Co^mbia — kind- 
 ness of the Indians — narrow defile — geology — Jackson's Hole — wild 
 flax — trappers go out on a hunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tetons 
 — danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre's Hole — Volcanic chasm — 
 children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — burial 
 of a child — scarcity of food — a timely supply — Salmon river — expect- 
 ed battle — geological observations — scene of mourning. 
 
 August 21st, commenced our journey in company with 
 Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight 
 days' journey on our route. Instead of going down on the 
 south-west side of Lewis' river, we concluded to take our 
 course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three very 
 high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separated 
 from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are 
 seen at a very great distance ; and trom thence to Salmon 
 river. Went only about three miles from the place of 
 rendezvous, and encamppd. 
 
 On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned 
 to the caravan, and with them to the United States. My 
 anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him and 
 make his way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the 
 object of his return, until it should be accomplished ; and 
 that, with next year's caravan, he might come with asso- 
 ciates into this promising field, and with them reap a plen- 
 tiful harvest. To-day we traveled twenty miles, through 
 a somewhat barren country, and down several steep de- 
 scents, and arrived at what is called Jackson's Hole, and 
 encamped upon a small stream of water, one of the upper 
 
88 PUBLIC WORSHIP. 
 
 branches of (lie Columbia river. It was interesting to find 
 myself, for the first time, upon the waters of this noble 
 river. The Indians were very attentive to all my wants 
 — took the entire care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. 
 They preserve particular order in their movements. The 
 first chief leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the 
 common men, and after these the women and children. 
 The place assigned me was with the first chief. 
 
 Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a 
 small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our 
 provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of 
 the Flatheads kind .y furnished me with a horse to relieve 
 mine. 
 
 Sabbath, 23rd. Had an opportunity for rest and devo- 
 tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship 
 with those of the company who understood English. The 
 me.i conducted with great propriety, and listened with 
 attention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them for 
 their sins, but endeavored affectionately to show them, that 
 they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be hap- 
 py in the employments of that holy place, unless they 
 should first experience a great moral change of heart by 
 the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in 
 heaven consists in serving and glorifying God forever. 
 The place of our encampment was such as would natural- 
 ly fill the mind with solemnity— just above a very deep 
 anr! narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the 
 hunters Kanyon. So high were the mountains, that some 
 of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow 
 the passage, that twilight shades obscured the view. The 
 distance through must occupy more than half a day's 
 journey. 
 
 . Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way 
 through the narrow dt^ilc, frequently crossing and re- 
 
A DANGEROUS PASS GEOLOGY. 89 
 
 crossing a large stream of water which flows into the 
 Snake river. The scenery is wild and in many parts 
 sublime— mountains of rock, almost perpendicular, shoot- 
 ing their heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and 
 in one place projecting over our path, if a zigzag trail 
 can be called a path. Often we had to pass over the sides 
 of mountains, which inclined at an angle of 45 D towards 
 the stream of water below, and down which packed mules 
 have fallen, and been dashed upon the rocks. I endea- 
 vored to guide my Indian horse so cautiously that he be- 
 came unmanageable, being resolved to have his own me- 
 thod of choosing the way. I was under the necessity of 
 dismounting and making the best of my way. But on far- 
 ther acquaintance with Indian horses, I learned that their 
 dashing mode of going ahead, even in dangerous places, 
 was preferable to the most cautious management of the 
 American. 
 
 For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal 
 distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten 
 feet wide, rising a little above the surface ot the earth, 
 running from south-east to north-west; laying in strata 
 dipping to the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance 
 I observed a mountain of red earth of similar character, 
 excepting that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 
 4(P. In one place where the strata of rocks and earth 
 were in waves nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, 
 of a wedge form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular 
 position, as though the mountain had been rent asunder, 
 and the chasm filled with the perpendicular wedge. A 
 great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed 
 in every part. Towards the last of the way through ibis 
 narrow defile we came to what appealed to be magnesian 
 limestone, stratified, of a brown color, and very hard. As 
 we passed on, we saw dark brown gypsum, like that found 
 
90 KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 in the western part of the state of New York. Here for 
 some distance 1 was much annoyed with the strong scent 
 of sulphureted hydrogen, and soon saw at the foot of the 
 mountain under the bed of gypsum a large sulphur spring, 
 which sent up more than thirty gallons of water per min- 
 ute. Around this spring were large quantities of incrusted 
 sulphur, and so strongly is this water saturated, that it 
 colors the water in the river a greenish yellow, on the 
 side next to the spring, for more than a mile below. 
 
 We passed more forests to-day, than since we left Rock 
 Independence ; among which are Norway pine, balsam 
 fir, double spruce, and common poplar — some low cedar 
 and flowering raspberry, and various species of shrubbery 
 which are not found in the United States. The Indians 
 were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see 
 who could do the most for my comfort, so that they more 
 than anticipated my wants. Two little girls brought me 
 a quart of strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the 
 year. And an Indian brought me some service berries, 
 which are large, purple, and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet 
 taste, similar to whortleberries. We encamped upon a 
 fertile plan, surrounded by mountains, where three years 
 before, three men were killed by a small war party of 
 Blackfeet Indians. There were seven of the hunters, and 
 when they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different di- 
 rections, and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the 
 pursuit. Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable 
 that they would have escaped unhurt. 
 
 We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch 
 of Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleas- 
 ant valley, commonly called Jackson's large hole. It is 
 fertile and well watered with a branch of Lewis' river 
 coming from the soutn-east, and another of some magni- 
 tude, coming from the north-east, which is the outlet of 
 
WILD FLAX. 91 
 
 Jackson's lake, a body of water situated just south of the 
 Trois Tetons. There are also many very large springs of 
 water of uncommon clearness, which issue from the base 
 of the surrounding mountains. This valley is well sup- 
 plied with grass of excellent quality, which was very 
 grateful to our horses and mules, and, from the avidity 
 with which they helped themselves, they seemed resolved 
 to be remunerated for past deprivations. 
 
 Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. It 
 resembles the flax which is cultivated in the Un.ted States, 
 in every thing, except that it is perennial — the stalk, the 
 boll, the seed, the blue flower closed in the day time and 
 open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for 
 making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be mowed 
 like grass ; for the roots are too large and run too deep 
 into the earth, to be pulled like ours ; and an advantage, 
 which this would have, is, that there would be a saving 
 of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy the experi- 
 ment of our agricultural societies % 
 
 Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good 
 currants, which in this land were delicious. There are 
 several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow 
 and pale red were the best flavored. 
 
 We continued in this encampment three days, to give 
 our animals an opportunity to recruit, and for Captain 
 Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the 
 mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the 
 probability, that most of these men would never return to 
 their friends, but would find their graves in the mountains, 
 my heart was pained for them, and especially at their 
 thoughtlessness about the great things of the eternal world. 
 I gave each of them a few tracts, for which they appeared 
 grateful, and said they would be company for them in their 
 
92 A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 
 
 lonely hours ; and as they rode away, I could only pray 
 for their safely and salvation. 
 
 During our continuance here, I took an Indian for an 
 assistant, and ascended one of the highest mountains in 
 the vicinity, to view the surrounding country. The pros- 
 pect was as extensive as the eye could reach, diversified 
 with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys. Most of the 
 mountains were covered with woods ; but the plains and 
 valleys were covered with grass, presenting less of bright 
 green, however, than might be expected where the sum- 
 mer is favored with dews and rains. But the whole was 
 a scene of perfect enchantment. About sixty miles to the 
 east, the Rocky mountains lay stretched through the whole 
 extent of vision, spread out like luminous clouds in the 
 horizon, tinged and mellowed with a golden hue by the 
 rays of the sun ; their summits so elevated, that no soil 
 ever rises to sully the pure whiteness of their everlasting 
 snows. It is only from a position like this, that any adt- 
 quate idea can be formed of the magnitude and height of 
 the mountains, — of their combined beauiy and grandeur ; 
 rising so high into perpetual snow, that nothing like sha- 
 ded or dark chasms can be seen. Not very far to the 
 north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed moun- 
 tains, covered with perpetual snow rising ten thousand feet 
 almost perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two 
 others of the same form but of less magnitude. Only 
 three of the cluster are so high as to be seen at a very 
 great distance. Here 1 spent much time in looking over 
 the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes filled 
 with emotions of the sublime, in beholding the towering 
 mountains ; sometimes with pleasure in tracing the wind- 
 ings of thestre >ms in the vale below ; and these sensations 
 frequently gave place to astonishment, in viewing the 
 
A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 93 
 
 courses in which the rivers flow on their way, unobstruct- 
 ed by mountain barriers. After some hours occupied in 
 this excursion, I descended to the encampment much gra- 
 tified with what I had seen of the works of God. The 
 soil in this valley and upon the hills, is bla»k and rich, and 
 the lime will come, when the solitude which now prevails 
 will be lost in the lowing of herds and bleating of flocks, 
 and the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and 
 vales; and trom many altars will ascend the incense of 
 prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su-wa-tish 
 took me to his company of horses and gave me one in to- 
 ken of his friendship, and probably not without the motive 
 to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, and 
 of the beautiful color of mngled cream and white. 
 
 On the 28th, we pursued our journey, and passed over a 
 mountain so high, that banks of snow weie but a short 
 distance from our trail. When we had ascended two- 
 thirds of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pur- 
 sued by our Indians, came rushing down the side of the 
 mountain, through the midst of our company One ran 
 over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and 
 threw the child far down the descent, but providentially 
 it was not materially injured. Another, ran over a 
 packed horse, and wounded it deeply in the shoulder. 
 The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when they have laid 
 their course, are affrighted, and running at full speed, it is 
 seldom they change their direction, whatever obstacles 
 may be in their way. 
 
 I noticed nothing particularly new in geo'ogy, except- 
 ing upon the higher parts of these mountains, granite of 
 very light color. Our descent was through woods more 
 dense than those on the other side, and the most dense of 
 any forests since we left the waters of the Missouri. 
 Many parts of the descent were ot almost impassable 
 
94 
 
 steepness ; and part of theway down a rough deep ra- 
 vine, a stream of water commences, and increasing from 
 springs and rivulets to considerable magnitude, winds its 
 way through the valley of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper 
 part of which we made our encampment among willows, 
 in the prairie vale. 
 
 On the 29th we removed our encampment, and traveled 
 five hours along this valley to the place, where two years 
 before, two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's 
 Hole is an extensive, level country, of rich soil, well wa- 
 tered by branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than 
 any part we have passed this side the rocky chain of 
 mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but is 
 deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply of cot- 
 ton-wood and willows scattered along the streams. It 
 extends around to the north-west, as far as the eye can 
 reach. We expected to have found buffalo here, but saw 
 none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often range this 
 way, it was probable they had lately been here and 
 frightened them away. Between this and our last en- 
 campment, I was shown the place where the men of the 
 fur companies, at the time of their rendezvous two years 
 before, had a battle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the 
 Blackfeet party there were about sixty men, and more 
 than the same number of women and children; of the 
 white men in the valley, there were some few hundred 
 who could be called into action. From the information 
 given me, it appeared that these Indians were on their 
 way through this valley, and unexpectedly met about for- 
 ty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous to the 
 south-west on their fall and winter hunt. The Indians 
 manifested an unwillingness to fight, and presented tokens 
 of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. Those who 
 came forward to stipulate terms of peace were fired upon 
 
95 
 
 and killed. When the Indians saw their danger, they 
 fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows which were 
 scattered along the stream of water, and taking advan- 
 tage of some fallen trees, constructed as good defense as 
 time and circumstances would permit. They were poor- 
 ly provided with guns, and were still more destitute of 
 ammunition. The trappers keeping out of the reach of 
 their arrows, and being well armed with the best of rifles, 
 made the contest unequal ; and it became still more. une- 
 qual, when, by an express sent to rendezvous, they were 
 reinforced by veterans in mountain life. The hunters, 
 keeping at a safe distance, in the course of a few hours 
 killed several of the Indians, and almost all their horses, 
 which, in their situation, could not be protected, while 
 they themselves suffered but small loss. Those killed on 
 both sides, have been differently stated, but considering 
 the numbers engaged, and the length of time the skirm- 
 ishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat- 
 tle ; and not much to the honor of civilized Americans 
 The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, 
 that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they 
 would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder. 
 If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white 
 men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af- 
 forded for our American citizens to have set an example 
 of humanity. 
 
 When night approached, the hunters retired to their 
 encampment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians 
 made their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's 
 Hole began and ended.* 
 
 *Siiice my return, I have seen an account of this battle, written by a 
 graphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing the 
 Indians as having entrenched themselves inaswamp,so densely wooded 
 as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trappers at bay, 
 
93 THE TEN COMMANDMENTS. 
 
 I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as 
 many as could assemble in one of their lodges, and ex- 
 plained to them the ten commandments — and after show- 
 ing them their sin in their transgression of God's holy 
 law, pointed them to the Saviour, and endeavored to make 
 them understand the way of salvation. My meihod of 
 instructing them was to give the first chief the first com- 
 mandment, by repeating it, until he could repeat it; and 
 the second commandment to another chief in the same way, 
 and so on through the ten, with directions for them to re- 
 tain what was given to each, and to teach their people; 
 and the same manner was pursued with other parts of di- 
 vine truth ; informing them, that at our next assembling, 
 I shall examine them to see if they rightly understood, and 
 retained what [committed to each. And on examination, 
 in no case did I find more than one material mistake. I 
 also found th*st they took much pains to communicate in- 
 struction to each other. 
 
 In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his 
 party, who went north-east into the mountains to their 
 
 until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the Blackfeet saw 
 the whole valley alive with horsemen, rushing to the field of action, 
 they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the leaders of the 
 several hunting parties came into the field, they urged their men to en- 
 ter the swamp, but they hang hack in awe of the dismal horrors of the 
 pi ice. regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. But the leaders 
 would not be turned from their purpose — made their wills — appointed 
 their executors — grasped their riiles, and urged their way through the 
 w wets. A brisk fire was opened, and the Blackfeet were completely over- 
 matched, but would not leave their fort, nor offer to surrender. The 
 numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did not storm the 
 breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their powder and bails, 
 but only kept Up the bloody battle by occasional firing during the day. 
 The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat; and the brave moun- 
 taineers assembled their forces in the morning, and entered the fort 
 without opposition. 
 
 With th >se who have seen the field of battle, the glowing description, 
 drawn out in long detail, loses its interest; for although I saw it, yet I 
 did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any where near. 
 
VOLCANIC CHASM. 97 
 
 hunting ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which 
 they will contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and 
 his family, with a few of his people, went with Captain 
 Bridger, that they might continue within the range of 
 buffalo through the coming winter. 
 
 The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go, 
 take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which 
 is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was 
 well chosen' for safety against any war parties of Black- 
 feet Indians, near a small stream of water running through 
 a volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in most 
 places perpendicular. We were on the west side of the 
 chasm, with a narrow strip of w T ood on every other side. 
 Here was a passage made for the water by fire. The 
 courses which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the 
 creating and directing hand of God, as the design mani- 
 fested in the organic part of creation ; and I would as 
 unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and 
 valleys, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, 
 without including the power and design of God, as for 
 the formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is 
 more minute and curious organization in the one than in 
 the other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are 
 manifest. 
 
 This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re- 
 freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed 
 especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to 
 my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall 
 return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence 
 are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the 
 Hebrews, and committed again myself and family, the 
 church, and the world of mankind, to God. It was plea- 
 sant to reflect on the promise of the scriptures, that the 
 kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the 
 
98 CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 
 
 Lord and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever ; and 
 that the time will come, when all shall know the Lord, 
 and God shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and 
 their sins and iniquities He will remember no more. 
 
 Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and 
 preparing to leave this encampment, I went and examined 
 the volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and nar- 
 row, in proportion to its depth ; formed of basaltic columns 
 in many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found 
 many large and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volca- 
 nic glass — much lava and vitrified stones. I took some 
 small specimens. In the vicinity around, there was clink- 
 stone in great abundance, which, when struck by the 
 horses' hoofs, gave a metalic sound. The soil is black, 
 and appears to be formed of decomposed lava, and is cov- 
 ered with a nutritious grass. 
 
 The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one 
 meets with any disaster, the others will wait and assist 
 him. Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge 
 and kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. 
 Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which 
 a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near 
 hovered at once around with their horses so as to enclose 
 him, and the child was extricated without injury. When 
 I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation that 
 it could be saved alive. This was the second case of the 
 kind which had occurred since I had been traveling with 
 these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses, 
 that every man, woman, and child, is mounted on horse- 
 back, and all their possessions are packed upon horses. 
 Small children, not more than three years old, are mount- 
 ed alone, and generally upon colts. They are lashed upon 
 the saddle, to keep them from falling when they sleep, 
 which they often do when they become fatigued. They 
 
CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 99 
 
 then recline upon the horses' shoulders ; and when they 
 awake, lay hold of the whip, which is fastened to the 
 wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their 
 horses; and it is astonishing to see how these little crea- 
 tures will guide and run them. Children which are still 
 younger, are put into an encasement made with a board 
 at the back and a wicker work around the other parts, 
 covered within and without, or, more generally, with 
 dressed skins : and are carried upon the mothers' back, or 
 suspended lrom a high knob upon the fore part of their 
 saddles. 
 
 As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes 
 warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co- 
 lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez 
 Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge 
 a number of his people who had separated, husbands from 
 their wives, and wives from their husbands, and explain 
 to them what God had said upon the subject. I readily 
 consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as 
 it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result 
 of his own reflections upon what 1 had before said in ex- 
 plaining the ten commandments. When they were as- 
 sembled, I read to them about the relative duties of hus- 
 bands and wives, and of parents and children. I comment- 
 ed upon.the subject, and told them that when they marry 
 it must be for life. All but two agreed to go back to their 
 former husbands and wives. It was interesting to see that 
 they are ready to practice instructions as soon as received. 
 The chief said they desired me to instruct them in all that 
 God has commanded ; for they wished to do right. After 
 I left them, they stayed a long time in the lodge of the 
 chief, which was near my tent, and I heard them convers- 
 ing on the subject until I went to sleep, which was at a 
 
100 FEARS OF THE BLACKFEET. 
 
 late hour. They all shook hands with me when I left 
 them, and said my words were " tots " (good.) 
 
 Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to- 
 day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, an- 
 other branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of some 
 magnitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and 
 fordable only when the water is low. After proceeding 
 a few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an 
 early hour in a spot upon the bank of the river, surroun- 
 ded by cotton-wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. 
 Our fears of meeting a war party of Blaekfeet Indians, 
 were increased by seeing three Indians pass who were 
 strangers to us. Some of the chiefs went through our 
 encampment and harangued the people, ihe object of 
 which was to be prepared for defending themselves against 
 an attack, should any enemies appear. We were pre- 
 served in safety through the night, and arose on the morn- 
 ing of the second and went on our way, and performed a 
 journey of twenty-two miles over a barren section of 
 country. The surface is composed of quartose sand, inter- 
 mixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. 
 In some places were large excavat ons, plainly indicative 
 of ancient volcanoes, which had spread out their melted 
 contents in a level plain of hard lava, or amygdaloid, 
 without forming cones. In other places there were conical 
 rocks of different magnitudes at the base, and of different 
 height — none perhaps over the diameter of three rods at 
 the base and sixty ieet hi«h. They were universally di- 
 vided in the centre, as though an explosion had taken 
 place after they were hardened. At some distance from 
 us were several hills, rising in high cones some hundred 
 feet — two of f hem I should Judge to be not far from three 
 thousand feet hi-^h. I did not have an opportunity of ex- 
 amining their geological formation. 
 
INVITATION TO FORT HALL. 101 
 
 We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Sal- 
 mon river, — the first water we had found through the 
 day ; here also was good grass for our horses. Kentuc, 
 my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was a very 
 grateful change of food. 
 
 Our progress during the next day was through a barren 
 tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except 
 wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream 
 bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for 
 stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65°. 
 
 We traveled on the 4lh, five hours, and encamped in 
 Cote's defile, by a stream of water, which comes out of 
 the mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. 
 Cote's defile passes through a range of high mountains, 
 and some of their summits are covered with snow. Most 
 of the day was uncomfortably cold, with snow-squalls. 
 Thermometer, at noon, 54°. 
 
 Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, 
 containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the 
 winter with him ; but the object for which I had passed 
 the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and 
 if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort 
 Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that 
 a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and 
 would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost 
 destitute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo. 
 
 The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued 
 in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perces an 
 opportunity to join us, and about the middle of the day 
 they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his 
 aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung 
 a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew 
 near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing 
 appearance. The women and children followed in the 
 
102 CHARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF. 
 
 rear. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, and other chiefs, arranged 
 their people in the same order and went out to meet 
 them ; and when we had approached within ten rods of 
 each other, all halted, and a salute was fired, in which I 
 had to take the lead. They then dismounted, and both 
 bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands, 
 with me, and each other in token of friendship, and to ex- 
 press their joy to see one come among them to teach them 
 respecting God and salvation. The principal chief of the 
 other band who is called Charlie, and is the first chief of 
 the Nez Perce nation, is a good looking man, his counte- 
 nance rather stern, intelligent, and expressive of much de- 
 cision of character. I never saw joy expressed in a more 
 dignified manner, than when he took me firmly by the 
 hand and welcomed me. 
 
 In the afternoon, I took Kentuc and rode five miles to 
 see a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detach- 
 ed from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the 
 east side of Cote's defile, is about half a mile in circum- 
 ference at the base, and rises up abruptly, having most of 
 its west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred 
 feet high, and has a level, horizontal summit of eighty rods 
 long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. The large 
 quantities of lava and amygdaloid which mainly compose 
 it, furnish plain evidence of its having been fused and 
 thrown up by subterranean fires. 
 
 In the evening, I met the chiefs, and as many as could 
 assemble in the lodge, and explained to those whom I had 
 not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the 
 first chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some 
 time — mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more 
 about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can 
 teach him; and said " I have been like a little child uneasy, 
 feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing 
 
A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS. 103 
 
 what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be 
 substantia], and which will help me to teach my people to 
 do right." I told them to-morrow would be the Sabbath; 
 and explained to them the nature of the institution, and 
 their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They ex- 
 pressed their desire to obey, and said they would not re- 
 move camp, but attend to the worship of God. Providen- 
 tially there came to us this afternoon a good interpreter 
 from Fort Hall, who was willing to remain with us over 
 Sabbath, so that to-morrow I shall be able to preach to 
 the people. 
 
 Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest 
 chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud 
 voice explained to them the instructions given last even- 
 ing ; told them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare 
 for public worship. About eight in the morning, some of 
 the chiefs came to me and asked where they should as- 
 semble. I enquired if they could not be accommodated 
 under the shade of the willows, which skirted the stream 
 of water on which we were encamped. They thought they 
 could not on account of their numbers. I then enquired if 
 they could not take the poles of some of their lodges and 
 construct a shade ; and without any other directions they 
 went and made preparation, and before eleven o'clock 
 came and said they were ready for worship. I found 
 them all assembled, men, women, and children, between 
 four and five hundred, in what I w r ould call a sanctuary of 
 God, constructed with their lodges, nearly one hundred 
 feet long and about twenty feet wide ; and all were ar- 
 ranged in rows, through the length of the building upon 
 their knees with a narrow space in the middle, length- 
 wise, resembling an aisle. The whole area within was 
 carpeted with their dressed skins, and they were all in 
 their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in a semi-cir- 
 
104 AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE. 
 
 cle at the end which I was to occupy. I could not have 
 believed they had the means, or could have known how 
 to erect so convenient and so decent a place for worship, 
 and especially as it was the first time they had ever had 
 public worship. The whole sight affected me, and filled 
 me with admiration ; and I felt as though it was the 
 house of God and the gate of heaven. 
 
 They all continued in a kneeling position during sing- 
 ing and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, 
 they all said what was equivalent in their language, to 
 Amen. And w T hen I commenced sermon, they seated 
 themselves back upon their heels. I stated to them the 
 original condition of man when first created, his fall, and 
 the ruined and sinful condition of all mankind ; the law of 
 God, and that all are transgressors of this law and as such 
 are exposed to the wrath of God, both in this life and the 
 life to come ; and then told them of the mercy of God in 
 giving his Son to die for us, and of the love of the Sa- 
 vior, and that though he desires our salvation, he will not 
 save us unless we hate sin and put our trust in him, and 
 love and obey him with all our heart. I also endeavored 
 to show them the necessity of renovation of heait by the 
 power and grace of the Holy Spirit. Told them they 
 must pray to God for the forgiveness of their sins and for 
 salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and entire 
 stillness prevailed, excepting when some truth arrested 
 their minds forcibly, a little humming sound passed 
 through the whole assembly, occupying two or three 
 seconds. 
 
 I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and would 
 not have changed my audience for any other upon earth ; 
 and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky 
 Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heath- 
 en who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I 
 
AN INDIAN BURIAL. 10 
 
 hope that in the last day it will be found that good was 
 done in the name of Jesus. If Christians could have wit- 
 nessed this day's service, it would have enlisted their sym- 
 pathies', and they would be willing to do something ade- 
 quate to the conversion of these perishing souls. 
 
 An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged 
 to the band which joined us yesterday, died this morning. 
 He was speechless when he was brought here. We at- 
 tended his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a 
 very decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting 
 that they deposited with him all his clothes and blankets. 
 I addressed the people at the grave upon the subject of 
 the resurrection and of the judgment. This was entirely 
 new to them and very interesting. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish 
 came to my tent towards evening, and remarked that what 
 I had said was " tois" it was spiritual, and now he knew 
 more about God. So deep was the interest awakened by 
 the few ideas their benighted minds had obtained of this 
 most precious truth of our religion, that they came to my 
 tent after I had retired to rest, and awakened me, to go and 
 converse sti ] l farther with them on the subject. 
 
 Monday, 7th, We traveled five hours to-day. The In- 
 dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ; 
 for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set 
 up and take down their lodges. This, is however, of little 
 consequence to them ; for wherever they are, that place is 
 their home. 
 
 They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- 
 cipating all, and more than all my wants, which they have 
 the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- 
 portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels. 
 They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun 
 shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green 
 bu. c ies and set them up for shade. A few days since we 
 5* 
 
106 VOLCANIC ROCKS. 
 
 encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a 
 species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with 
 a few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them 
 in my tent. 
 
 We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks, and 
 over a more rich, black soil, where we found a good sup- 
 ply of grass for our horses at night. 
 
 Our route, on the 8ih, was continued as usual. My 
 health hitherto, since I commenced my journey, has been 
 unintenuptedly good until to-day, when I suffered a slight 
 attack of inflammation of the lungs > in consequence of a 
 cold. 
 
 The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet 
 they are seldom anxious about the future. When they 
 have a plenty, they are not sparing; and when they are 
 in want, they do not complain. The Indians at this time 
 were almost destitute of provisions, and we were approach- 
 ing the Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occu- 
 pies between twelve and fifteen days, and where there are 
 no buffalo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful 
 concern for them, that God would send a supply before we 
 should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident 
 that we should experience the truth of His word, that he 
 provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the ca'tle 
 upon the thousand hills are his, he would not withhold 
 his providential care from us. 
 
 We continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also 
 passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use 
 for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress- 
 ed skins. 
 
 Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a 
 paste, and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes 
 dry they rub it off, which process leaves the garments soft, 
 
SCARCITY OP PROVISIONS TIMELY SUPPLY. 107 
 
 clean, and white. We encamped to-day where the In- 
 dians had before made an encampment, a little below a 
 steep bank. Near night I was alarmed by shouts of In- 
 dians and a general rush up the bank. I hastened up and 
 saw great numbers running towards our camp. It proved 
 to be a foot race, such as they frequently exercise them- 
 selves in, for the purpose of improving their agility. 
 
 September "9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex- 
 pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted 
 to make preparation for the chase. The young men and 
 all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the 
 swiftest horses, examined the Tew guns they had, and took 
 a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was 
 such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon 
 their success. And while they were preparing, I could 
 not but offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give 
 them judgment, skill, and success. They advanced tow- 
 ards the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should 
 frighten them before they could make a near approach ; 
 and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase, 
 when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisi- 
 tion. When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush 
 was made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow with 
 which he happened to come into the nearest contact. All 
 were in swift motion, scouring the valley — a cloud of dust 
 began to arise— the firing of guns and the shooting of ar- 
 rows followed in close succession — soon, here and there, 
 buffalo were seen prostrated ; the women, who followed 
 close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable 
 acquisition ; and the men were away again in pursuit of 
 the fleeing herd. Those in the chase, when they come 
 abreast of the buffalo and at the distance of two rods, 
 shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn 
 
108 THE CHASE. 
 
 upon them. The horses appeared to understand the way 
 to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded buffalo flies 
 again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alternate 
 wheeling and chasing until the buffalo sinks beneath its 
 wounds. They obtained between fifty and sixty. I was 
 interested to see how expertly the Indians used the bow 
 and arrow, and how well the women followed up the chase, 
 and performed their part in dressing the buffalo which 
 were slain. 
 
 After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped on the 
 eastern branch of Salmon river,, where it is of considerable 
 magnitude. The pain in my breast changed to my head. 
 
 On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged 
 to bleed myself and resort to medicine. I could say with 
 the Psalmist, " I laid me down and slept ; for thou art with 
 me." We did not remove to-day, for it was necessary 
 for the Indians to dry their meat by a process which is 
 called " jerking." The meat is cut into pieces, an inch 
 thick, and spread out on a fixture made with stakes, upon 
 which are laid poles, and upon these cross sticks ; and 
 then a moderate fire is placed beneath, which partly smokes, 
 cooks, and dries it, until it is so well freed from moisture, 
 that it can be packed, and then it will keep without injury 
 almost any length of time. Here we made preparation 
 for the remainder of my journey to Walla Walla, which 
 will probably occupy about twenty days. 
 
 September 11th. To-day most of the Nez Perces and 
 Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo, 
 that they might secure a larger store of provisions before 
 winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to 
 go with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, 
 I experienced another token of their regard in a very valua- 
 ble present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a 
 
SALMON RIVER. 109 
 
 great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried 
 meat. I reciprocated their kindness by making such pre- 
 sents as were in my power to bestow — among which was a 
 britania cup, to the first chief, which he highly valued. 
 And I gave him some writing paper, requesting him to 
 present it to the missionaries whom I had encouraged him 
 to expect next year. 
 
 After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same 
 branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor- 
 tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly. 
 
 We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the east- 
 ern branch of Salmon river. The valley through which 
 this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to 
 three or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward 
 the Salmon river mountains, the mountains upon each side 
 increased in height and converged towards each other. 
 They presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with 
 Indians to send out numbers of their best hunters and war- 
 riors, in different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially 
 when they are apprehensive that enemies may be near. We 
 had evidence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of 
 some other nation, or tribe, were about us ; and therefore 
 more than usual numbers of our men were flanking and 
 ahead. On the banks of the river down which we were 
 traveling, there was a dense growth of willows, extending, 
 however, only a few rods into the bottom-lands. About 
 two in the afternoon, we were all very much alarmed to see 
 our men, who were out as hunters and guards upon the 
 hills, running their horses at full speed, in an oblique di- 
 rection towards us. Two of them were our principal chiefs. 
 We knew that they had discovered something more than 
 ordinary, but what we could not conjecture. Being in a 
 country where war parties of Blackfeet Indians often range, 
 
110 DANGER APPREHENDED. 
 
 our thoughts "were turned upon danger ; and soon our 
 fears were increased by seeing clouds of dust arise on the 
 sides of the mountains at our left, and in the obscure dis- 
 tance, men descending as swiftly as their horses could 
 run. They were so far ofT that we could not determine 
 who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on the 
 hills halted and made signals which we did not understand. 
 In addition to this, some of the Indians said they saw 
 Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us 
 and the chiefs ; and our belief that it was so, was con- 
 firmed, when two deer rushed from the willows towards 
 us, and when they saw us, instead of returning, only de- 
 clined a little to the left, and passed before us. These en- 
 quiries arose in my mind — Why have the chiefs halted ? 
 Do they see enemies between us and themselves ? Are 
 their signals to give us warning of danger ? What so 
 frightened the deer that they rushed out towards us ? We 
 had all halted, and made what preparation we could for 
 battle. As we did not know in what part of the willows 
 to make the attack, we were waiting for our enemies to 
 commence the fire, and were expecting every instant to 
 have their balls poured in upon us. It was a moment of 
 awful suspense. We sent out a few men, on an eminence 
 to our right, to see what they could discover, and they 
 soon returned without having seen any enemies. The 
 two chiefs upon the hills, who were now joined by those 
 who rushed down the mountains, and who proved to be 
 some of our own men, applied their whips to their horses, 
 and in full speed came to us ; and Charlie, the first chief, 
 rode up to me, and smiling reached out his hand and said, 
 " cocoil, cocoil" (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus ended the bat- 
 tle; and the remainder of the day was spent in killing 
 and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleasant than 
 
ILL HEALTH. Ill 
 
 fighting Blackfeet Indians. This made a desirable addi- 
 tion to their stock of provisions. We encamped in this 
 place, with a plenty of good grass for our horses, and no 
 want of fuel. 
 
 The inflammation in my head still continued with throb- 
 bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundied a minute. 
 Bled myself again and took medicine. 1 hermometer, at 
 noon, 73°. 
 
 Sabbath, 13th. My health was no better, and my 
 strength was failing. I felt that all was ri«. ht, and that I 
 needed this trial to lead me to an examination of my spir- 
 itual condition, my motives in engaging in this mission, 
 and whether I could give up all for Christ to promote his 
 kingdom in the world. I thought I could surrender all 
 into the hands of God, my soul to my Redeemer, and my 
 body to be buried by the Indians in this desert land. 1 felt 
 as though it was desirable to finish my tour, and return 
 and make my report, and urge the sending of missionaries 
 into this field, which is white for the harvest ; and again to 
 meet my family and friends ; but still I wished not to have 
 any will of my own, but say, the will of the Lord be done. 
 The Indians persevere in their kindness, and are very re- 
 spectful, and ready to obey as fast as I can impart instruc- 
 tion; and they say that what I tell them is different from 
 any thing they have ever heard, being spiritual, and that 
 they wish to have Sueapo (American) teachers. If the 
 American churches will not send them teachers, criminali- 
 ty must rest upon them for disobedience to Christ's au- 
 thority. Are there any heat lien more anxious than these 
 to be taught the way of salvation, where there are so few 
 obstacles to the introduction of tie gospel? Here are 
 no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste to combat; nor, 
 as yet, the destructive influence which exists upon the 
 frontiers. 
 
112 GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, pro- 
 ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles 
 above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes 
 from the south, and has its source in two small lakes, in 
 the mountains north of Henry's Fork. 
 
 For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the moun- 
 tains come down near the river, rendering the valley 
 through which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains 
 terminate in high bluffs, in many places presenting un- 
 commonly interesting strata. The lowest stratum was 
 white marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly 
 horizontal, and somewhat indurated; upon this a green 
 stratum of about four feet in thickness ; next a stratum of 
 brown of about ten feet; upon this a stratum of red of 
 about the same depth of the green ; over this a mould of 
 decomposed lava. This marly earth slightly effervesces 
 with acid. The rocks in most places are basalt — in some 
 places very fine granular quartz. Noticing some unusual 
 appearances near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I 
 rode to the place, and found a cluster of volcanic erup- 
 tions; though ancient, they appeared more recent than 
 any I had previously seen. A little way down the de- 
 scent into one of the craters, I found a petrified stump, 
 standing in its natural position ; its roots and the grain of 
 the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and about eighteen 
 inches in diameter. This stood undoubtedly, upon what 
 was the natural surface of the earth, and the mound above 
 and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. While time 
 is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is scattering it 
 over the country around, to renew the soil once destroyed 
 by the great conflagration, which fused this whole region 
 of the setting sun. This petrified stump, found in this po- 
 sition, proves that this country, now so destitute of wood, 
 
NEZ PERCE AND BLACKFEET INDIANS. 113 
 
 was once supplied if not covered with forests. From va- 
 rious sources of evidence, it is plain that these prairie re- 
 gions were formerly better supplied with wood than at 
 present, and also that the present supply is constantly 
 diminishing. 
 
 We passed, to-day, a place where two years ago thirty 
 Nez Perce young men were buried, who were killed by 
 the Blackfeet. They were all active young men, going 
 out upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not 
 learn. They had gone but a little distance from the vil- 
 lage, which encamped here, when, passing through a very 
 narrow defile on a small stream of water, walled up on 
 both sides with perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians 
 way-laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and 
 killed all but one, who mounted a horse belonging to the 
 Blackfeet, and rushed through the opposing enemy. After 
 the Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaugh- 
 ter, the Nez Perces brought away the dead bodies and 
 buried them in this place. According to their mode, they 
 buried with them their clothes, blankets, and buffalo 
 robes, in graves about three feet deep, putting five or six 
 bodies into a grave. Some time after this, the Blackfeet 
 Indians dug them up, and made plunder of their blankets 
 and whatever they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces 
 afterward came this way, collected their bones and buried 
 them again. The graves in which they were first buried 
 were open when we passed, and fragments of garments 
 lying about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in 
 silence over their murdered sons and brothers. The whole 
 scene was affecting, and I could not but long for the time 
 to come when they shall settle down in a Christian com- 
 munity, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and 
 when the gospel shall be sent to the Blackfeet Indians, 
 
114 
 
 that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good 
 will toward men. After some time spent in reflections 
 and solemn mourning, we left the place and proceeded 
 down the river, and encamped near Bonneville's Fort, 
 now abandoned ; it is situated in a small pleasant valley. 
 This place would be favorable for fur business, was it not 
 on the ground where conflicting tribes often meet. 
 
SALMON RIVER. 115 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Salmon river — mineral salt — chimneys — forest trees, new species of 
 pine — geology — sulphur lake — a rare animal — new species of squir- 
 rels and pheasants — Lewis branch of the Columbia — ferryman — Ba- 
 saltic formation — fine climate — arrive at Walla Walla. 
 
 Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes 
 its name from the immense number of salmon found in its 
 waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive 
 formation. 
 
 I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'. 
 
 September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we 
 came to a location of mineral salt, (Chloride of Sodium.) 
 It crops out of the mountain near its base, on the south 
 side of the river. On account of the impaired state of my 
 health, and the want of facilities for exploring the mine, 
 I was under the necessity of passing it with an examina- 
 tion of such specimens only as the Indians procured. The 
 Salt is pure and white, containing less of the water of crys- 
 talization than our common salt. I took a quantity to re- 
 plenish my nearly exhausted store. That the mine may 
 be extensive is probable from the circumstance, that the 
 geological formations around, are like those about the 
 mines in Poland, and besides it is in the vicinity of the 
 great Salt Lake, whose waters are so strongly saturated, 
 that crystals form upon the shores. 
 
 After passing down the river two hours in a north-west 
 direction, w r e entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon 
 river. The river literally passes into the mountains ; for 
 the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three bun- 
 
116 THE CHIMNEYS. 
 
 dred feet high, and through mountains several thousand 
 feet high, is wide enough only for the river to find a pas- 
 sage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no 
 more. During the two hours' ride, before we entered the 
 mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was 
 some level bottom-land along the river, in every direction 
 mountains were rising above mountains, and peaks above 
 peaks, up to the regions of perpetual snow. These moun- 
 tains are not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with 
 bases in most instances small in proportion to their height. 
 So much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much 
 variety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, 
 with interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were 
 similar to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more 
 than a mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the 
 south-west, of one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet 
 high, resting upon a base of conglomerated rock, composed 
 of round stones of primitive origin, cemented with marly 
 clay of the various colors already mentioned. The oppo- 
 site side of the river is studded with dark basalt. 
 
 After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar- 
 row, and winding course for several hours, until an open 
 space spread out before us. Here 1 beheld what appear- 
 ed at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses 
 which the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, 
 and tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer ap- 
 proach they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ten, twen- 
 ty, and even forty feet in height. The firm and durable 
 texture of their material preserves them from being crum- 
 bled t3 a level w 7 ith the earth around them. 
 
 From this place we turned more to the west, passed a 
 high mountain, parts of which are very steep, and en- 
 camped in a valley by a stream of crystal water. 
 
 On the 17th, we pursued our journey over high moun- 
 
THE ELASTIC PINE. 117 
 
 tains, in some places intersected by deep ravines, very 
 difficult to be passed. Encamped on a small plain in a 
 grove of large Norway pines. 
 
 September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow 
 progress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my 
 journey to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remain- 
 der to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain 
 six thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to 
 arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with 
 woods, excepting small portions, which are open and fur- 
 nish grass for our horses. The woods are composed main- 
 ly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. 
 The leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch 
 pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are 
 shorter and smaller; the bark and the body of the tree 
 resemble the larch ; the wood is firm and very elastic. 
 On experiments which 1 made, I found it difficult to break 
 sticks an inch in diameter. On account of this last and 
 peculiar property, I have called it the elastic pine. It 
 grows very tall and straight, and without branches except 
 near the top. These pines would undoubtedly mike ex- 
 cellent masts and spars for shipping. After passing part 
 of the way down this mountain, we stopped for the night. 
 We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's 
 labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance 
 than when we were with the village. We were much 
 annoyed by trees that had fallen across the trail. En- 
 camped upon the sou'h-east side of a high mountain, where 
 there was a large opening, a spring of water, and a good 
 supply of grass for our horses. 
 
 Sabbath, 20th. We continued in the same encamp- 
 ment. I expressed my wish to the chief, that the day 
 should be spent religiously, and that he should communi- 
 
118 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 cate to his men, as well as he was able, the scripture 
 truths he had learned. This was faithfully done on his 
 part, and he prayed with them with much apparent devo- 
 tion. I was interested to see how readily they were dis- 
 posed to obey to the extent of their knowledge, and I was 
 affected with the thought that so few were willing to 
 come and teach these benighted minds. After they had 
 closed their worship, I sang a hymn and prayed, and con- 
 versed with them. 
 
 The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled myself 
 copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but in- 
 creased my weakness, so that I could walk only a few 
 rods without much fatigue. 
 
 Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to 
 me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was 
 ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. 
 It seemed, that such was my loss of strength, and I was 
 becoming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue 
 of traveling eight days longer over mountains on an aver- 
 age about six thousand feet high ; and as they range north 
 and south, with only very narrow valleys between, and 
 our course was only a little north of west, we were con- 
 stantly ascending and descending; and we could not dis- 
 continue our journey for the want of provisions. The 
 thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of my 
 mission, and close my life without a sympathizing friend 
 with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in 
 the solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I 
 knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could 
 not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night 
 I sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to Jay 
 my aching, throbbing hend, but my portmanteau was the 
 only substitue, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and 
 every morning arose refreshed by sleep. 
 
CURIOSITY. 119 
 
 Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour- 
 ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good 
 fare of yesterday, made a long day's journey. I had no- 
 ticed the mountain over which we passed to day, which is 
 about seven thousand feet high, two days before we ar- 
 rived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charlie, 
 my guide, would not depart in this instance from the com- 
 mon custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the high- 
 est parts of mountains, and to descend into the lowest val- 
 leys. But we passed the highest point, excepting one 
 peak, which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like an im- 
 mense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt ; and 
 around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. 
 At the base there are also excavations, around and below 
 which there is a large quantity of lava. This is a granite 
 mountain, most of which is in its natural state. The way 
 by which I calculated the height of the mountains is, that 
 some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as 
 eight thousand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of per- 
 petual snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not vary 
 greatly from each other, that they average six thousand 
 feet. 
 
 I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- 
 tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many 
 tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour 
 glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one 
 was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of 
 wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, seeing 
 me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying glass, 
 said, " these white men know every thing. They know 
 what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, 
 and how to make watches, and how to make the needle 
 always point to the north." They had seen a compass 
 before, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that 
 
120 INDIAN SIMPLICITY. 
 
 would keep me from getting lost." A waterfall was seen 
 descending down a high point of this mountain, and, by 
 its continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding 
 its side. 
 
 We left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour 
 and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the 
 way the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in 
 some places even more steep; sometimes on the verge of 
 dizzy precipices ; sometimes down shelves of rocks where 
 my Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in 
 other places would brace himself upon all fours and slide 
 down. I had become so v eak that I could not walk on 
 foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently 
 between the mountains there would be only space enough 
 for a rushing stream of the purest water to find its way ; 
 the bank on one side of which would terminate the de- 
 scent of one mountain, and the other bank commence the 
 ascent of another. The question often arose in my mind, 
 can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless the 
 mountains shall be brought low, and the valleys exalted ? 
 But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood 
 for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines 
 of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests 
 for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads 
 may be constructed running north and south, so that trans- 
 portation may be made south to the Salmon river, and 
 north to the Coos-coots-ke.* 
 
 After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low 
 stony place where there was but little grass, for the want 
 of which some of our horses strayed away. Our men 
 
 *The name of this river in the journal of Clark and Lewis, and in all 
 other writings I have seen, is written Coos-coos-kee. This signifies iho 
 water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water. Coos, wa- 
 ter ; coots, little ; ke, the. The little river. 
 
i 
 
 MOUNTAIN LAKES. 121 
 
 killed a deer, which was a very agreeable change from 
 dried buffalo. 
 
 The mountains over which we made our way on the 
 23d, were of primitive formation, with the exception of 
 some parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate 
 predominated. In one place there were immense quanti- 
 ties of granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a 
 broken state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly 
 in cubic forms. In some places, the change from granite, 
 in its natural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it 
 would be difficult to say where the one ended and the 
 other began ; like the change from day to night. While 
 riding along upon a narrow ridge of this mountain, I saw 
 two small lakes a little down the sides ; one on the right 
 hand, which appeared to be very black, and the other up- 
 on the left was very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a 
 spring in the mountain side. These two lakes were 
 directly opposite each other, and not far distant. I should 
 have examined them more minutely, had my strength per- 
 mitted me to go down to them, and again ascend to 
 where I must have left my horse. There was also much 
 in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising above 
 mountain, and precipice above precipice. 
 
 We spent the night in a valley, where there was a 
 small meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods 
 around were very dense, composed mostly of the new spe- 
 cies of pine, which here were very tall and straight, not 
 however very large in diameter. The neighborhood of 
 beaver was indicated by the mud dam, and by the barked 
 willows on the stream. The Indians brought in a wolve- 
 rine which they had killed. 
 
 Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our en- 
 campment, and made good progress through the day. 
 About the middle of the day, we came where we could 
 6 
 
122 NEW SPECIES OP TREES. 
 
 look forward without having the sight obstructed by 
 mountains, and it was pleasant to have a prospect open- 
 ing into the wide world. We continued to descend, until 
 we came into a valley of considerable extent, through 
 which flows a large branch of the Coos-coots-ke. Found 
 to-day a new species of elder ; it grows five or six inches 
 in diameter, and from ten to twenty feet high, bearing 
 berries which are blue and pleasant to the taste. Kentuc 
 caught some fine trout. 
 
 Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez 
 Perces, which they left last spring. They were in fine 
 order. It is remarkable that their horses do not wander 
 far from where they are left, although there are no fences 
 to inclose them. Some of the Indians changed their 
 horses and took fresh ones, relieving those which were 
 worn down with journeying. 
 
 On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile 
 valley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my 
 expectations, we left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke, 
 which took too much of a north direction, and ascended 
 another high mountain, densely covered with woods. 
 Among the largest trees is a new species of fir, single 
 leafed, the bark thick and rough like the bark of hemloc, 
 but the balsam is the same as the common fir. I saw 
 more birds in this valley, than in all the country through 
 which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins 
 in great numbers, the magpie, and with them a new species 
 of bird about as large as the magpie, its color uniformly a 
 dull red somewhat resembling chocolate. Thermometer 
 stood at 54°. 
 
 On the 26th, we proceeded but about four hours on our 
 way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum- 
 mit; the distance to another suitable place for our horses 
 over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day, a new species 
 
A RARE ANIMAL. 123 
 
 of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as 
 large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color 
 was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; 
 its fur appeared to be fine ; its head was round and large ; 
 its eyes black, prominent and very piercing. I was for- 
 ward of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about 
 eight feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared 
 afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain 
 it, but without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, 
 but did not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw 
 in these mountains, a new variety of striped squirrel, only 
 about half as large as those found in the United States ; 
 and another kind, in every respect resembling the red 
 squirrel, but in color. It is nearly black, excepting its 
 under parts, which are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a 
 new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. 
 It is much smaller than the common species ; somewhat 
 lighter colored and more spotted ; it is gregarious like the 
 common quail. It was remarkably tame, as if unac- 
 quainted with enemies ; and when assailed with stones by 
 the Indians, appeared to be amazed, and made scarcely 
 any effort to escape. Its flesh was very good, and fur- 
 nished an additional supply to our waning stock of pro- 
 visions. 
 
 Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. 
 My health was no better — perspired profusely last night, 
 and yet the inflammation was increasing — bled myself, 
 and, though weakened, found relief. 
 
 We had religious services both in the morning and 
 afternoon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays 
 every morning and evening with his men, and asks a bless- 
 ing when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, 
 my interpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are 
 
124 
 
 now near our country, and when we come into it, I wish 
 you to look over it and see if it is good for cultivation and 
 for missionaries to live in. I know but little about God — 
 my people know but little — I wish my people to know 
 more about God." He said he wished to talk with me 
 much more, and was sorry I had not a better qualified in- 
 terpreter. 
 
 Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made 
 a long day's march, and emerged from the mountains 
 about two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as 
 we expected, we were obliged to travel on until near 
 night, when we came to another branch of the Coos- 
 coots-ke, at which we found several lodges of Nez Perce 
 Indians. A salute was fired, and then we were welcomed 
 with a ceremonious, but hearty shaking of hands. They 
 feasted us with excellent dried salmon, and I made them 
 some small presents. I was rejoieed to find myself safely 
 through the Salmon River Mountains, and convalescent. 
 These mountains were far more difficult to pass than the 
 Rocky Mountains, as we could not take advantage of any 
 valley, but one in which we journeyed only two-thirds of 
 a day. Excepting in the middle of the days, the atmos- 
 phere was cold, and frequently ice was formed during the 
 night. It was a favor that we had no snow, which often 
 falls upon the tops of the mountains very early in the au- 
 tumn ; nor had we any storms, or unpleasant weather in 
 our passage. Frequently, heavy gales of winds sweep 
 through these mountains, and prostrate parts of the forest ; 
 but we had none to endanger us. 
 
 On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than 
 half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov- 
 ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth. 
 Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, 
 
MEETING WITH INDIANS. 125 
 
 there being but little besides what is found along the 
 streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, 
 as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. 
 Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us 
 with the same friendly expressions, as those did where we 
 encamped last night. We left the branch of the Coos- 
 coots-ke and ascended westerly to the upper prairies, 
 which are as fertile as the lower, and do not suffer more 
 with the drouth. After a long and fatiguing ride over 
 these prairies, we descended into a deep gulf, almost en- 
 closed with perpendicular walls of basalt ; in the bottom 
 of which, we found a large spring of water, where we en- 
 camped. 
 
 Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made 
 good progress, considering the exhausted state of our 
 horses. Most of the streams were dried up, and one which 
 is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived 
 last night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. As- 
 cending out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of 
 the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency 
 of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The 
 horses, contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried 
 grass to the green. In the afternoon, we went through a 
 section of country well supplied with woods, chiefly made 
 up of yellow pine and white oak ; where much of the soil 
 appeared to be very good. Towards night we came to a 
 stream of water running west, where we encamped. 
 Thermometer 82° at noon. 
 
 Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially 
 better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After 
 traveling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez 
 Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as 
 at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief. 
 
126 LEWIS RIVER. 
 
 They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was, 
 and the object of my coming into their country, as their 
 countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With 
 these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much 
 exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed 
 any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the 
 deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter 
 from the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat except 
 what they could find upon the prairies. 
 
 We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis 
 branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the 
 Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on ac- 
 count of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing 
 down its channel than I anticipated. 
 
 A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca- 
 noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and 
 reminded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat. 
 
 The country differs much from what I had expected ; 
 for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply 
 for grazing, yet so great is the destitution of summer rains, 
 that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian 
 corn. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very ear- 
 ly in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before 
 the severity of the drouth, that they would do well. In 
 general there is a great want of wood for building, fencing 
 and fuel ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply 
 may be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place 
 combines many advantages for a missionary station. 
 
 I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of 
 some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild 
 horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they 
 say they saw this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I 
 had seen no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. We 
 
GEOLOGY. 127 
 
 passed the niglit upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as 
 it is more commonly called, the Snake river. 
 
 On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, 
 before all our horses could be found. We started about 
 eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place 
 where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun- 
 tains which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course 
 to Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the 
 river and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its 
 source. The section of country through which we jour- 
 neyed to-day was mountainous. One part of the river 
 along which we traveled was w T alled up with volcanic 
 rocks. The lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet 
 high and very cellular, terminating in a narrow horizontal 
 plain. Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the 
 columns of which are regular crystalized pentagons, va- 
 rying from two to four feet in diameter, rising forty feet 
 high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they 
 were a little inclined. Above this formation of columns 
 there was a stratum of volcanic stones and disintegrated 
 basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, lying in a con- 
 fused state. Then upon this another section of basalt and 
 amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to the height of 
 three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular. The pentagons 
 are as regularly formed, and have much the same appear- 
 ance, as those composing the Giant's causeway in Ireland. 
 From the best observations I could make, I was led to 
 conclude that the different sections were raised, at differ- 
 ent periods of time, by widely extended subterranean fires. 
 The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other places, 
 which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, containing 
 augite, or black oxyd of iron; and is what Clarke and 
 Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called 
 black rocks. 
 
128 CAMMA.S ROOT. 
 
 Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our 
 encampment, and had, through the day, an uncommonly 
 high wind from the west, but a pleasant sun and clear at- 
 mosphere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, 
 while on the east side of the mountains, and not more than 
 five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Moun- 
 tains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate 
 more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat 
 hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for 
 the night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an 
 upper branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found 
 three lodges of Nez Perces who were out on a hunt for 
 deer, and the women were gathering cammas roots. This 
 root in some degree resembles in taste and nutritive prop- 
 erties the sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food 
 for the Indians throughout a considerable section of coun- 
 try, on this side of Salmon river and the Salmon river 
 mountains. The common tokens of friendship were in- 
 terchanged, and they presented us a share of such food as 
 they themselves had. 
 
 Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which 
 all the men, women and children of three lodges attended. 
 What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, 
 was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the 
 appearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to 
 what was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these In- 
 dians manifest to know what they must do to please God, 
 and to obtain salvation. 
 
 I employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Expla- 
 nation of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium 
 of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab- 
 bath Schools. 
 
 Early, on the 5th, we pursued our journey down the 
 
VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA. 129 
 
 Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of thirty- 
 miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with the 
 common trees and shrubs of such locations, interspersed 
 with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avoset, the robin, 
 and varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this 
 as a favorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have 
 been seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find 
 their dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot im- 
 pressed me favorably as the situation for the missionaries 
 who should succeed me, and* in every thing but its popu- 
 lousness would furnish advantages beyond any I have as 
 yet seen. Indians of different tribes border on, and around, 
 this valley, and the location is therefore less central for , 
 any one of them. They might, however, be brought by 
 degrees to collect and settle down around a mission station, 
 when once it should be established. 
 
 October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour- 
 ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, 
 and of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended 
 the bluffs and passed over an undulating prairie of good 
 soil, leaving the Walla Walla river to our left. As 
 we drew near the Columbia river, the soil became more 
 and more sandy. Before we arrived at the fort, my atten- 
 tion was arrested by seeing cows and other cattle, in fine - 
 order, feeding upon the 'bottom land ; and the sight was 
 not only novel, after having been so long absent from civ- 
 ilized life, but was the more interesting because unexpect- 
 ed. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired their cus- 
 tomary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate. Mr. 
 P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, and gave me 
 a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a hab- 
 itation of civilized men, whose language was not strange. 
 I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God, in his 
 
 6* 
 
130 FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 
 
 great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought 
 me in safety and with restored health to this place. Soon 
 I was invited into another apartment to breakfast ; and it 
 was truly pleasant again to sit in a chair, at a table spread 
 with furniture, and such luxuries as bread and butter, su- 
 gar and milk, of which I had been deprived for about 
 three months. 
 
 I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days after 
 leaving home — forty-five days from Rendezvous — and 
 twenty from entering the Salmon river mountains. 
 
FORT WALLA WALLA. 131 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of the Indians by the 
 Hudson Bay Company — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver — lo- 
 quacious orator — rapids — introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn- 
 ing prospects — long rapids — Volcanic mountains — trial of Indian gen- 
 erosity — arrival at the falls of the Columbia river — rousing effects of 
 oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable subsi- 
 dence — Cascades — Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces; 
 dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock — interesting 
 waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at Fort Vancouver. 
 
 Fort Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the 
 Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- 
 lumbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, 
 by the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, 
 Nez Perce river ; and one mile above the Walla Walla 
 river, in latitude 46° 2', longitude 119° 30'. The Fort 
 is built of logs, and is internally arranged to answer the 
 purposes of trade and domestic comfort, and externally for 
 defense, having two bastions, and is surrounded by a stoc- 
 cade. Two miles below the fort there is a range of 
 mountains running north and south, w T hich, though not 
 high, are yet of considerable magnitude ; and where the 
 Columbia passes through, it is walled up on both sides 
 with basalt, in many places three hundred feet perpen- 
 dicular height. The soil for considerable distance around, 
 with the exception of some strips of bottom land, is sandy, 
 and for the want of summer rains is not productive. This 
 establishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of 
 life, but also with many of its conveniences. They have 
 cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate corn, pota- 
 
132 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 
 
 toes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and might en- 
 large these and other productions to a great extent. 
 They also keep on hand dry goods and hardware, not only 
 for their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. 
 During most of the year they have a good supply of fish, 
 and salmon of the first quality, in abundance. 
 
 Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled 
 with my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and 
 made arrangements for leaving to-morrow, in a canoe 
 propelled by Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, 
 for Fort Vancouver, which is two hundred miles down the 
 Columbia. 
 
 Thus am I putting myself, without fear, into the hands 
 of Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men 
 was necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places 
 which have been battle grounds between traders and 
 Indians. 
 
 The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company 
 are worthy of commendation for their good treatment ot 
 the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship 
 and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few 
 of them have made, to instruct thore about them in the 
 first principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard 
 to equity, humanity, and morality. This company is of 
 long standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and 
 intend to perpetuate the business; therefore they con- 
 sult the prosperity of the Indians as intimately connected 
 with their own. I have not heard, as yet, of a single 
 instance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any 
 of the men belonging to this Company. Nor have I 
 heard any boasting among them of the satisfaction taken 
 in killing or abusing Indians, that I have elsewhere 
 heard. 
 
 Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having 
 
A VOYAGE COMMENCED. 133 
 
 got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished 
 by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given 
 them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine 
 o'clock in the morning, and having passed the usual salu- 
 tations, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, 
 which here is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself 
 in a new situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe 
 upon the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, 
 and with rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger 
 Indians, two hundred miles by water before I could expect 
 to find any white men ; to pass through several nations 
 whose languages are entirely different ; yet the change 
 from horseback, for months over mountains and plains, 
 through defiles and ravines, was anticipated with satis- 
 faction. 
 
 My three Indians were well acquainted with the river 
 and with the art of managing the canoe. One of them 
 understood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was 
 very loquacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man 
 of importance. He told me he was to do the talking, and 
 the other two were to do as he should direct. On account 
 of his importance and loquacious habits I called him my 
 orator. One of the other two, who took the stern and 
 steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking 
 man, excepting the expression of his countenance, which 
 was indicative of intelligence and good nature. The third, 
 who took the bow, was an able and well disposed young 
 man. The channel through the volcanic mountain, a little 
 below the fort, is one of the wonders of nature ; how it was 
 formed through the immensely hard basaltic rocks to the 
 depth of about three hundred feet, and for the distance of 
 two or three miles, remains unexplained. But my atten- 
 tion was so much taken up with the boiling eddies and 
 the varying currents, that I did not take those observations 
 
134 CAYUSE INDIANS. 
 
 which under different circumstances might have been made, 
 and which the scenery and phenomena demanded. In one 
 place, as we passed out of the mountain channel, the river 
 ran so rapidly over a rocky bed, and the water was so 
 broken, that I thought it unsafe to continue in the canoe, 
 and requested my Indians to put me ashore. My talking 
 Indian said, " tois" (good.) I told him, waiitu tois,kap- 
 seis, (not good, but bad.) But he still said, tois, tois, 
 and I concluded, that they would not decline putting me 
 on shore, if there was any particular danger. The man at 
 the stern put off into the middle of the river, where the 
 water was the smoothest, but where the current was equal- 
 ly strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the varying 
 eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and when- 
 ever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe to 
 the other was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of 
 an eye. Any failure of right management would have 
 been disastrous ; but they kept the canoe in the right di- 
 rection, and we shot down with such velocity, together 
 with the breaking in of some water, as to cause solicitude. 
 But this served to make the smooth parts, when we ar- 
 rived at them, more pleasant, and to render my mind more 
 tranquil in regard to future dangers. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an en- 
 campment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. 
 When we had come within hearing, my orator announced 
 our approach and informed them who I was, and the ob- 
 ject of my tour, and they must prepare to receive me with 
 all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had 
 not come with goods, but to teach them how to worship 
 God. They arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs 
 and principal men forward, then the more common men, 
 next the women, according to their rank, the wives of 
 chiefs, the old women, the young — and then the children 
 
MORNING PROSPECT. . 135 
 
 according to age. All things being made ready, the sa- 
 lute was fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even 
 the youngest children, many of whom, when they present- 
 ed the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I 
 made them some presents, and bought of them some dried 
 salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries 
 I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains, and they were 
 a grateful acid. The Indians expressed much satisfaction 
 in seeing me, and the object of my coming among them. 
 I told them I could not explain to them all I wished, but 
 they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where I 
 should have an interpreter, and then I would tell them 
 about God. After again shaking hands with them, we 
 went on our way. 
 
 At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en- 
 camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who 
 came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness, 
 which characterize their nation. Among their acts of 
 kindness they brought me wood, which in this section of 
 the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and 
 grass to make my bed upon. 
 
 October 9th. We arose before day, and as soon as any 
 light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The 
 morning was pleasant, the country around open and diver- 
 sified with rolling prairies, and the distant mountain tops 
 were mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. 
 It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as banish- 
 ed all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon 
 the ear, except the regularly timed strokes of the paddles 
 of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe with 
 an accelerated velocity, greater than the current of the 
 river would have carried us. 
 
 About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted 
 by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued 
 
136 RAPIDS. 
 
 to increase, until the white breaking water was presented 
 to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled 
 with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among 
 which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its 
 way. The only part of the river, which presented any ap- 
 pearance of safety, was along near the south shore. This 
 had somewhat the appearance of a wake. My Indians 
 made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle 
 of the river. On my expressing some apprehensions of 
 danger, they pointed toward the wake and said, "tois" I 
 pointed forward and toward the north shore, and said, kap~ 
 seis, (bad.) They answered, "az, kapseis ;" and with the 
 language of signs accompanying their words, told me they 
 would keep the canoe in the good water, and it would not 
 fill, nor be drawn into the breakers. My confidence in 
 their skill of management being well established, I made 
 no objection to their going forward, and in a very short 
 time we had passed the apparent danger, and were gliding 
 along over the smooth surface on the south side of a large 
 island, about six miles long. 
 
 During the day, the country around was comparatively 
 Level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have 
 been formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the vol- 
 canic substances, which so generally abound. This sec- 
 tion of the country is well supplied with grass, which du- 
 ring the summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can 
 calculate the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which 
 might be kept here summer and winter, with no other labor 
 than the care of a few herdsmen and shepherds. We en- 
 camped upon the north side of the river among some sand 
 hills, a little below several lodges of the Walla Walla In- 
 dians, to whom I had the usual and formal introduction. 
 
 I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different 
 tribes scattered along this river, living in harmony, with- 
 
HEAD WIND. 137 
 
 out any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favor of 
 their kind and peaceable dispositions. 
 
 On the 10th/ we arose before day, after a night's com- 
 fortable rest, and by the first breaking light had our bag- 
 gage on board and were under Way. Towards the middle 
 of the day we came to a more mountainous tract of coun- 
 try, and at a place where the mountains crossed the river, 
 were very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among 
 islands near the north shore, we made a safe descent. 
 About noon a head wind, which commenced in the fore- 
 part of the the day, had become fresh, and the waves be- 
 gan to multiply their white caps, so that it was dangerous 
 navigation for our canoe, and we had to land and wait for 
 a more favorable time. We encamped on the north side 
 of the river, under a very high and romantic basaltic 
 mountain ; in some parts near us the rocky walls were 
 more than two hundred feet in perpendicular height — in 
 one place hanging over. In some places, and at different 
 altitudes of this immense wall, there were cavities of con- 
 siderable magnitude, and in others, wide and deep fissures ; 
 through one of which passes the road traveled by pedes- 
 trians and those on horseback. This place is ten miles 
 above the falls of the Columbia, which the Indians call 
 the turn turn, the same expression they use for the beat- 
 ing of the heart. 
 
 About a mile above us, some Walla Wallas were en- 
 camped, many of whom came to my tent and wished to 
 enter into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. 
 I told them to trade was not my business, any farther than 
 to buy Salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of 
 them was a Meohot, a chief, and would expect a present. 
 As a trial of their disposition, I told him they had not 
 brought me any wood for a fire, and I would not give 
 them any thing until they showed their kindness. But he 
 
138 TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY. 
 
 said I must make the chief a present, and buy of them 
 wood. I replied, waiitu, if he is a chief let him show 
 the generosity of a chief. Very soon they brought wood, 
 and a fire was made, which I followed with some pre- 
 sents. 
 
 Sabbath, 11th. We continued in the same encamp- 
 ment, and my heart's desire was much excited for the sal- 
 vation of these poor heathen. There was a sufficient 
 number here to have made a decent congregation if I had 
 possessed any medium of communication. Their language 
 differs from the Nez Perces, so that I could have no com- 
 munication with them except through my orator, who 
 asked me if he should teach these Indians what he had 
 learned about God and his worship. I gave him permis- 
 sion, though I feared he was influenced more by love of 
 distinction than any higher motive ; but still I would re- 
 joice, if any true light should be imparted to them. 
 
 I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the 
 weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we 
 took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some 
 time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island, 
 on the south side of which is a commodious bay, near 
 which, and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites 
 with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians 
 of about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker 
 raised his oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the 
 whole village, calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with 
 their people receive the personage with him in due form. 
 It was but a short time before their line was formed, the 
 first chief leading the way, and others according to their 
 rank and age following, and the ceremony of shaking 
 hands was performed ; and all retired to their lodges 
 again. 
 
 There is a great want of neatness among Indians in 
 
LA DALLES. 139 
 
 general, but more especially among those on this river, 
 who live by fishing. 
 
 Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded 
 by land, upon the south side of the river, passing by the 
 Falls, and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower 
 end of the island where the rapids begin, to the perpen- 
 dicular fall, is about two miles ; and here the river con- 
 tracts, when the water is low, to a very narrow space, and 
 with only a short distance of swift water, it makes its 
 plunge twenty feet or more perpendicular ; and then, after 
 a short distance of rapids, dashing against the rocks, 
 moves on in a narrow passage filled with rapids and 
 eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La Dalles, four 
 miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle, broad channel. 
 At the Falls and the La Dalles below, there are several 
 portages, where boats and canoes, as well as baggage, 
 have to be transported. The geological formation along 
 this distance is singular. With the exception of a few 
 high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are but 
 little above the river in the freshet rise ; and yet the chan- 
 nel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amygda- 
 loid. Has this channel worn this solid rock formation 1 
 If so, at what time? There is no appearance of the 
 channel having worn perceptibly deeper, since the rocks 
 from their melted state, were spread out into their present 
 condition, which must have taken place centuries and 
 centuries ago. As I have no confidence in theories 
 founded upon conjecture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave 
 the subject for others to tell us how these things took 
 place. Former visiters, among whom I name Doct. Gard- 
 ner, a learned English naturalist whom I saw at Oahu, 
 Sandwich Islands, expressed his entire inability satisfac- 
 torily to account for this peculiar phenomenon. Nor does 
 the Indian tradition, that the Great Wolf made this, to- 
 
140 BOSTON TRADING COMPANY. 
 
 gether with all the scenery that delighted my eye as I 
 passed down the river, relieve the mind of its irrepressible 
 curiosity. This is one of the best locations for salmon 
 fishing, and great numbers of Indians collect in the 
 season of taking them, which commences the last of 
 April, or the first of May, and continues several months. 
 
 At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Captain 
 Wyeth from Boston, with a small company of men going 
 up the river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intel- 
 ligent and sociable man, had the charge of the business of 
 a company formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the 
 Columbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the 
 mountains. The plan of the company was to send a ship 
 annually around Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring 
 out goods for trade, and to take home the salmon and furs 
 which should be obtained during the year. It was expec- 
 ted that the profits on the salmon would defray all com- 
 mon expenses, and that the profits on the furs would be 
 clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus far the en- 
 terprise has been attended with many disasters, and the 
 loss of many lives — several of the men were drowned, and 
 others killed by Indians. 
 
 Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians, to return, 
 and Tilki, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged 
 to furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort 
 Vancouver. I spent the night with Capt. Wyeth, and 
 obtained from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook lan- 
 guage, to enable me to do common business with the In- 
 dians residing along on the lower part of this river. 
 
 Tuesday, 13th. I left at nine o'clock in the morning, 
 in the canoe with three men furnished by Tilki, and made 
 good progress down the river, which here flows in a wide 
 and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is 
 walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the 
 
UNUSUAL PHENOMENON. 141 
 
 lower part of the La Dalles, commences a wooded country, 
 which becomes more and more dense as we descend, 
 and more broken with high hills and precipices. I ob- 
 served a remarkable phenomenon— trees standing in their 
 natural position* in the river, in many places where the wa- 
 ter is twenty feet deep, and rising to a high or freshet 
 water mark, which is fifteen feet above the low water. 
 Above the freshet rise, the tops of the trees are decayed 
 and gone. I deferred forming an opinion in regard to the 
 cause, until I should collect more data. About the 
 middle of the day a south wind began to blow, and 
 continued to increase until it became necessary to go on 
 shore and encamp, which we did about four in the after- 
 noon. 
 
 On the 14th, we did not make much progress on ac- 
 count of wind and rain. We encamped in a cavern under 
 a large projecting rock, the upper part of which was 
 formed of basalt, the lower of conglomerate. Although 
 this was at least six miles from the Cascades, yet the roar 
 of the water could be distinctly heard. The same pheno- 
 menon of the trees continued. I paid particular attention 
 to the condition of the shores of the river, and the adjacent 
 hills and mountains, to see if there were any escarpments 
 presenting such condition as would furnish evidence of 
 their having descended by landslips ; but as there were 
 no such appearances, and the condition of the trees was 
 the same where there were no hills and mountains near, I 
 was led to conjecture, that I should find the river at the 
 Cascades dammed up with volcanic productions • and I 
 was induced to believe it would be found so, from the 
 fact, that the river, the whole distance from the La 
 Dalles, is wide and deep, and moves with a sluggish 
 current. 
 
 On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the 
 
142 REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE. 
 
 morning, I did not leave my encampment until noon, when 
 we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at two o'clock 
 in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still more nu- 
 merous, in many places standing in deep water, and we 
 had to pick our way with the canoe in some places, as 
 through a forest. The water of the river is so clear, that I 
 had an opportunity of examining their position down to 
 the spreading roots, and found them in the same condition 
 as when standing in the natural forest. As I approached 
 the Cascades, instead of finding an embankment formed 
 from volcanic eruptions, the shores above the falls were 
 low, and the velocity of the water began to accelerate two- 
 thirds of a mile above the main rapid. On a full exami- 
 nation, it is plainly evident that here has been a subsidence 
 of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length, and 
 about a mile in width. The trees standing in the water 
 are found mostly towards and near the north shore, and 
 yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish movement, 
 I should conclude the subsidence affected the whole bed. 
 That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low water 
 mark, proves that the subsidence is comparatively of recent 
 date ; and their undisturbed, natural position, proves that 
 it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremendous 
 convulsion of natui^. The cause lies concealed, but the 
 fact is plain. That parts of forests may in this way sub- 
 merge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on 
 the eastern coast of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, 
 is about fifteen feet below low water mark, extending east- 
 ward a considerable distance from the shore, in which 
 stumps and roots of trees are seen in their natural position. 
 So manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken 
 place by volcanic power, in these regions west of the Rocky 
 Mountains, both by upheaving and subsidence, that we 
 are led to enquire whether there are not now such agents 
 
THE CASCADES. • 143 
 
 in operation, and upon such materials, that the valleys 
 shall be literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, 
 and waters spring up in the deserts. 
 
 The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the 
 Falls, do not differ materially from them, except in the 
 wild romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular 
 fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form, 
 to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im- 
 petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice, twenty 
 or thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling de- 
 scent most of the way five miles farther, where it meets 
 the tide waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, 
 in the river, there are many islands, but none of them are 
 very large — some are only volcanic rocks. The country 
 about the Cascades, and many miles below, is very moun- 
 tainous, especially on the south side. The volcanic peaks 
 are as diversified in their shapes as they are numerous, 
 being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed, rising 
 from one to fifteen hundred feet. While imagination gen- 
 erally overdraws her pictures, nature here has furnished 
 abundant seope for all her powers. 
 
 A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore,' there 
 is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the 
 only real Flatheads and Nez Perces, I have found. They 
 both flatten their heads and pierce their noses. The flat- 
 tening of their heads is not so great a deformity as is gen- 
 erally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the apex 
 or crown of the head, there is a depression, but not gener- 
 ally in adult persons very noticeable. The piercing of 
 the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by inserting 
 two small, tapering, white shells, about two inches long, 
 through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the 
 nose. These shells are of the genus dentalium, they in- 
 habit the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among 
 
144 THE PORTAGE. 
 
 the natives. I called at this village to obtain men to car- 
 ry our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished 
 to engage in trade with me in several articles of small 
 value, which I declined, informing them that my business 
 w r as of a different nature. While detained, the daughter 
 of the chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all 
 her pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to ex- 
 hibit, to the best advantage, her fine, erect, and stately 
 person. 
 
 After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to car- 
 ry the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rap- 
 ids, or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder 
 and balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part 
 of my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous 
 rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large 
 rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, through 
 which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians ran 
 the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for 
 their safety; but they chose to do it. Two years before, 
 the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordelled several 
 batteaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the 
 boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one 
 broke, and the batteau, in spite of the efforts of the men 
 in it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves 
 among the rocks — capsized and all were lost. 
 
 I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the 
 rapids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a 
 mile below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian 
 path, I came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which 
 were several houses of a village, inhabited only in time of 
 taking salmon. They were both larger and far better con- 
 structed than any I had seen in any Indian country. They 
 were about sixty feet long, and thirty-five wide, the frame- 
 work very well constructed and covered with split planks 
 
INDIAN BURYING PLACES. 145 
 
 and cedar bark. A little back of these houses a small beau- 
 tiful lake spreads itself out, on the surface of which some 
 dozens of wild ducks were enjoying the quietness of its 
 solitude. \ As I continued down the Indian path, at no 
 great distance from the village, I came to several deposi- 
 tories of their dead. They were built of plank split from 
 balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and 
 five high, and well covered. At one end is what may be 
 called a door, upon which are paintings of various devices, 
 which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose 
 than for ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as 
 well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indians who 
 paid no particular attention to them, more than we should 
 in passing a burying ground. They pointed me to them, 
 and made a short, solemn pause, without any actions which 
 would indicate their paying homage to the pictures or any 
 other object. The number of these depositories I did not 
 ascertain, as many of them were so far decayed, as to be 
 hardly distinguishable ; but there were eight or ten in 
 good condition. Below this we passed several houses of 
 less magnitude than those above ; and while the^ floors of 
 those were on a level with the surface of the ground, these 
 were sunk about four feet below, and the walls rose only 
 about three feet above the ground. It would seem that 
 these were designed for winter habitations, but at this 
 time their occupants were all absent. At the distance of 
 four miles below the main cataract, the country, on the 
 north side, spreads out into a level, fertile plain, which 
 near the river is a prairie, a little distance back covered 
 with dense forests ; while on the south side of the river it 
 is very mountainous. 
 
 Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, 
 and we proceeded a few miles farther, and encamped below 
 Pillar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of wa- 
 7 
 
146 BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL. 
 
 ter which descends the mountain from the south. Pillar 
 rock is of basaltic formation, situated on the north side of 
 the river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of 
 rich bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, 
 on the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly 
 so. Upon all, except the river side, there are narrow off- 
 sets upon which grow some cedars, and also a few upon 
 the highest point. The base in proportion to the height, 
 is very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enor- 
 mous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of 
 volcanic operations. 
 
 The cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes 
 the view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet ; 
 and by several offsets the water descends in a white foam- 
 ing sheet, at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, present- 
 ing the appearance of a white belt laid upon the side of 
 the mountain. In two places the descent is perpendicu- 
 lar ; the lowest is probably not less than two hundred feet, 
 and before the stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated 
 into spray and disappears, until you see it again collecting 
 itself at the foot of the mountain, and after wending its 
 way a short distance, it unites with the Columbia. The 
 whole scene, combining the ruggedness and wildness of 
 nature's most romantic forms, with its most magnificent, 
 filled my mind with admiration both of the work and its 
 Author. 
 
 On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called 
 my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again 
 launched into the broad river, in our frail canoe. For 
 about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountain- 
 ous, forming bold shores, after which the mountains recede, 
 and the river spreads out in some places from one to three 
 miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the 
 appearance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. 
 
CIVILIZATION. 147 
 
 There are some fine prairies, but the greatest part is thick- 
 ly wooded. In this part of the river are many fertile 
 islands, some of which are large ; the current moves on 
 gently, and the whole scenery around is fascinating. As 
 I descended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such 
 as geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began 
 to multiply ; also every now and then seals made their 
 appearance, so that I became cheered with the increasing 
 exhibitions of animated nature, greater than I had witness- 
 ed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, 
 about the middle of the day, on the north shore in a thick 
 grove of large firs, I saw two white men, with a yoke of 
 oxen, drawing logs for sawing. I hailed them, and en- 
 quired of them the distance to Fort Vancouver. They re- 
 plied, " only seven miles around yonder point, down that 
 prairie." Soon we came to a large saw-mill, around which 
 were large piles of lumber and several cottages. This 
 looked like business upon a much larger scale than I had 
 expected. I called a short time at this establishment, 
 where I found several Scotch laborers belonging to the 
 Hudson Bay Company, with their Indian families. Al- 
 though it was then about noon, they offered me a break- 
 fast of peas and fish, taking it for granted that men who 
 travel these western regions, eat only when they can get 
 an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, we arrived at 
 Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set 
 my feet on shore, where I expected to find a hospitable 
 people and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a 
 chief factor and the superintendent of this fort, and of the 
 business of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, 
 received me with many expressions of kindness, and invi- 
 ted me to make his residence my home for the winter, and 
 as long as it would suit my convenience. Never could 
 such an invitation be more thankfully received. 
 
148 PROVIDENCE. 
 
 It was now seven months and two days since I left my 
 home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had 
 been constantly journeying, and the last fifty-six days, 
 with Indians only, I felt that I had great reason for grati- 
 tude to God for his merciful providences toward me, in de- 
 fending and so providing for me, that I had not greatly 
 suffered a single day for the want of food. For months I 
 had no bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt 
 that a change and a variety would have been agreeable, 
 but in no instance did I suffer, nor in any case was I 
 brought to the necessity of eating dogs or horseflesh. In 
 every exigency something wholesome and palatable was 
 provided. 
 
 
FORT VANCOUVER. 149 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Description of Fort Vancouver — departure for Fort George and mouth 
 of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo Island — 
 May Dacre — Coffin Rock — Cowalitz river — Indian friendship — Pacific 
 ocean — Gray's bay — Astoria. 
 
 Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co- 
 lumbia river, about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prai- 
 rie of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense 
 woods. The country around for a great distance, is gen- 
 erally level and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, 
 excepting some prairies interspersed, and has a pleasant 
 aspect. It is in north latitude 45° 37', and longitude 
 122° 50', west from Greenwich — one hundred miles from 
 the Pacific ocean. The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, 
 thirty-seven rods long, and eighteen rods wide, facing the 
 south. There are about one hundred white persons be- 
 longing to this establishment, and an Indian population of 
 three hundred in a small compass contiguous. There are 
 eight substantial buildings within the enclosure, and a 
 great number of small ones without. 
 
 October 17th. After a night's rest in this fort, I left for 
 Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the 
 confluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the 
 United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early 
 departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and 
 the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should 
 commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the 
 May Dacre, from Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging 
 to Captain Wyeth and Company, which was lying twen- 
 
150 WAPPATOO ISLAND. 
 
 ty-three miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multno- 
 mah. Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Phila- 
 delphia, accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was 
 large and propelled by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there 
 are many in this country, who have come here as sailors 
 and laborers. Five miles below the fort, we passed the 
 main branch of the Multnomah. It is a large river, coming 
 from the south, and is divided by islands into four branches 
 at its confluence with the Columbia. Here commences 
 the Wappatoo island, so called from a nutritive root found 
 in the small lakes in the interior, which is much sought 
 for by Indians as an article of food. This island is about 
 eighteen miles long, and five miles wide, formed by a part 
 of the Multnomah, branching off about six miles up the 
 main river, running in a westerly and north-westerly 
 direction, and uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles 
 below the main branch. The branch which flows around 
 and forms the island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of 
 sufficient depth for small shipping, most of the year. It 
 was upon this island the Multnomah Indians formerly re- 
 sided, but they have become as a tribe extinct. The land 
 is very fertile, and most of it sufficiently high to be free 
 from injury by the June freshet. Some parts of it are 
 prairie, but the greatest part is well wooded with oak, ash, 
 balsam fir, and the species of poplar, P. balsamifera, often 
 called balm of Gilead, and by most travelers, cotton- 
 wood. At the south-west of this island, there is a range 
 of mountains which render a space of the country broken, 
 but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that there is an ex- 
 tensive valley well adapted to agriculture. 
 
 We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at 
 five o'clock in the afternoon, and were politely received 
 on board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored along- 
 side a natural wharf of basalt. 
 
 
MAY DACRE. 151 
 
 Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a 
 small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise 
 of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for 
 their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room 
 which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament 
 the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's 
 holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred. 
 Those who will not submit to divine authority, must reap 
 the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse 
 the mercy of God with impunity. 
 
 Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the 
 tide, about three miles, but, for the want of wind, an- 
 chored. In the afternoon I went on shore for exercise 
 taking with me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for 
 assistance in any danger. I made a long excursion 
 through woods and over prairies, and found the country 
 pleasant and fertile. The grass on the prairies was green, 
 and might furnish subsistence for herds of cattle. When 
 will this immensely extended and fertile country be 
 brought under cultivation, and be filled with an industrious 
 population ? From time immemorial, the natives have 
 not stretched forth a hand to till the ground, nor made an 
 effort to cause the earth to yield a single article of produce, 
 more than that which springs up spontaneously ; nor will 
 they until their minds are enlightened by divine truth. 
 No philanthropist who is not under the influence of Chris- 
 tian principles, will ever engage in the self-denying work 
 of enlightenin g their minds, and arousing them from their 
 indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these w r estern shores, 
 the work of destruction, introduced by those who would be 
 called the friends of man, is going forward. The Indians 
 in this lower country, that is, below the Cascades, are 
 only the remnants of once numerous and powerful na- 
 tions. 
 
152 DEER ISLAND COFFIN ROCK. 
 
 The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an 
 opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal- 
 ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759, 
 and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to 
 be about seventy-six and a half years. Its train of 
 light was very perceptible, and about twelve degrees in 
 length. 
 
 We had a favorable wind on the 20th, which, with the 
 current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on 
 our way. Among the many islands with which the lower 
 part of this river abounds, Deer Island, thirty-three miles 
 below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, 
 and while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the 
 interior is chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant 
 growth of grass and vines of different kinds, excepting 
 the grape, of which there is no indigenous species west of 
 the Rocky Mountains. In the interior of this island there 
 are several small lakes, the resort of swans, geese, and 
 ducks. This island was formerly the residence of many In- 
 dians, but they are gone, and nothing is left except the re- 
 mains of a large village. 
 
 Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one 
 called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island, 
 situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet 
 above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered 
 with canoes in which the dead are deposited, which cir- 
 cumstance gives it its name. In the section of country 
 from Wappatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, 
 instead of committing the dead to the earth, deposit them 
 in canoes, and these are placed in such situations as are 
 most secure from beasts of prey ; upon such precipices as 
 this island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made 
 for the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with 
 
CAPT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOT CHIEF. 153 
 
 mats, and split planks are placed over them. The head 
 of the canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole 
 made for water to escape. 
 
 A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river 
 coming from the north-east, flows into the Columbia, 
 which is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for 
 boats a very considerable distance. The country up this 
 river is said to equal, in richness of soil, any part of the 
 Oregon Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and 
 prairies, that the farmer could at once reap the fruits of his 
 labor. 
 
 On account of numerous sand-bars and windings of the 
 navigable channel, we anchored for the night. The even- 
 ing was cloudy and there was the appearance of a gather- 
 ing storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills 
 that the situation was considered safe. 
 
 The wind on the 21st, was light, and our progress 
 therefore was slow. This section of the country is moun- 
 tainous, the ranges running nearly from the south-east to 
 the north-west, and covered with a very dense and heavy 
 growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skil- 
 loots with a few of his people came on board. He was 
 very talkative and sportive. When he was about to leave, 
 he told Capt. L. that as they had been good friends, and 
 were now about to separate, he wished a present. Capt. 
 L. told his steward to give him a shirt. The chief took it 
 and put it on, and then said, " how much better would a 
 new pair of pantaloons look with this shirt." The cap- 
 tain ordered him the article asked for. Now, said the 
 chief, " a vest would become me and increase my influ- 
 ence with my people." This was also given. Then he 
 added, " well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each other 
 
 * Chief, or gentleman. 
 
 7* 
 
154 PILLAR ROCK. 
 
 again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket, 
 which would make me a full dress." The captain an- 
 swered, " go about your business ; for there is no end to 
 your asking so long as I continue to give." Then the 
 chief brought forward a little son, and said, (i he is a good 
 boy ; will you not make him a present ?" Capt. L. gave 
 them a few small articles, and they went away rejoicing 
 over the presents which they had received, instead of re- 
 gretting the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to- 
 day, Pillar Rock, which stands in the river, isolated, more 
 than half a mile from the north shore, composed of basalt, 
 and is about forty feet high, and fifteen in diameter. We 
 anchored a few miles below. 
 
 On the morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable 
 tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a 
 brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread 
 out into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation 
 is difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide 
 set us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean 
 opened to our view. This boundary of ; the " far west," 
 was to me an object of great interest; and when I looked 
 upon the dark rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast 
 expanse of five thousand miles, without an intervening 
 island until you arrive at the Japau coast, a stretch of 
 thought was required, like contemplating infinity. Like 
 the vanishing lines of perspective, so is contemplation lost 
 in this extent of ocean. 
 
 As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the 
 right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in 
 which, on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia an- 
 chored, and from whose commander the bay took its name. 
 Nearly opposite we passed Tongue Point, which extends 
 ibout two miles into the bay or river from the south. It is 
 
ASTORIA. lo5 
 
 considerably elevated, rocky and covered with woods. 
 Soon after this, Astoria was announced. My curiosity 
 was excited. I looked, but could not discover what to all 
 on board was so plainly seen — I blamed my powers of 
 vision — and reluctantly asked the captain where is Asto- 
 ria 1 " Why," he replied, " right down there — that is 
 Astoria !" I saw two log cabins, and said within myself, 
 is thai the far-fain^d " New York of the west 1" 
 
156 FORT GEORGE. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Description of Fort George — mouth of the Columbia — dangerous bar- 
 mountainous coast — varieties of timber — good location for a mission- 
 ary station — continued rains — dense forests- — excursion in a canoe 
 down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance of the 
 Columbia — ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin — Japa- 
 nese junk — reflections — water fowl — return to Fort Vancouver— - 
 the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness. 
 
 When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort 
 George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. manned a boat to 
 take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his 
 respects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet 
 us at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to 
 his dwelling. After having interchanged the customary 
 salutations, and made a short stay, the captain re-embark- 
 ed and made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the 
 wind and tide being favorable, he passed the dangerous 
 bar without any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. 
 Fort George is situated on the south side of the bay, ten 
 miles from Cape Disappointment, is without any fortifica- 
 tions, has only two small buildings made of hewed logs ; 
 about two acres cleared, a part of which is cultivated with 
 potatoes and garden vegetables. It is occupied by two 
 white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose 
 of trade with the few remaining Indians who reside about 
 these shores. Though this is the present condition of As- 
 toria, yet the time must come, when at the mouth of this 
 noble river there will be a commercial city, and especial- 
 ly may this be expected, as this bay affords the only good 
 harbor for a long distance on this coast. I should think 
 
MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. 157 
 
 the north side of the bay, a little above the cape, adjoin- 
 ing what is called Baker's bay, would be the most desira- 
 ble location for a town, as that is the safest place for ships 
 to ride at anchor ; and on that side, the country is more 
 open and pleasant for a commercial town. On the south 
 side, where Astoria was located, the mountains or high 
 hills come down very near the shore, are rocky and pre- 
 cipitous, preventing a southern prospect, and in the short 
 winter days of a north latitude of 46° 17', they almost ex- 
 clude the sun. 
 
 A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, ex- 
 ists in regard to the navigation of this river, namely, the 
 sand-bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the 
 bar from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of 
 that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms 
 deep, in one place only five, and the channel is only about 
 half a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that 
 there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above 
 a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, , 
 so lhat there is no passing it except when the wind and 
 tide are both very favorable. Without the bar there is no 
 anchorage, and there have been instances, in the winter 
 season, of ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for 
 an opportunity to pass ; a good pilot is always needed. 
 Perhaps there have been more lives lost here, in propor- 
 tion to the number of those who have entered this river, 
 than in entering almost any other harbor in the world. 
 But the calamities have been less frequent for some years 
 past, than formerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed 
 at the cape, to tow vessels over, when business shall be 
 sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, the delays 
 and dangers would be greatly diminished. 
 
 The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the 
 river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; 
 
158 VARIETIES OF TIMBER. 
 
 extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- 
 tween Chenook bay on the north, and Young's bay on the 
 south j and seven miles wide between Fort George and 
 Chenook point. It is rilled with many sand-bars, and one, 
 which is called Sand Island, a little within the capes, seen 
 only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when 
 not in the charge of skilful pilots. 
 
 The section of country about the sea coast is rough 
 and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and 
 dense forest of any part of America of which I have any 
 knowledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, 
 but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, any 
 where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which 
 there are three species, constitute the greatest part of the 
 forests trees. White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are 
 interspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is 
 most common, prevail in most sections ; and in some low 
 bottom-lands, the species of poplar, called the balm of 
 Gilead, or bitter cotton wood, predominates. The balsam 
 fir grows very large ; not unfrequently four and six feet 
 in diameter, and two hundred feet high. I measured one 
 which was eight feet in diameter, and about two hundred 
 and fifty feet high. As I do not here intend to enter up- 
 on the dendrology of this country, I omit farther remarks 
 upon this subject for the present. 
 
 The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this 
 mountainous, iron-bound coast, might easily be brought 
 under cultivation. One section lies about Young's bay, 
 extending to and about Point Adams. This would be a 
 favorable location for a missionary station, where access 
 could be had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who 
 are said to be numerous. 
 
 At this season of the year, there are but few Indians 
 who reside about this trading post, finding it more for their 
 
LAND EXCURSION. 159 
 
 comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season 
 of the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies 
 along rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and 
 where some game is found to add to their winter's stock 
 of provisions. 
 
 During my continuance in this place it was my inten- 
 tion to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from 
 thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said af- 
 fords a very extensive and interesting prospect. But from 
 day to day it rained, and the high winds created such a 
 sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt a 
 passage. 
 
 On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very 
 uncomfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, 
 accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as fast 
 as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the 
 severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and 
 came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and 
 screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat. 
 
 The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr. 
 Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our 
 rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise. 
 But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with 
 various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossi- 
 ble to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the 
 woods more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and 
 turned our course back, but our return, with diligent ef- 
 forts, occupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees 
 and shrubbery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the 
 world can surpass the country around these shores. 
 
 The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for 
 a water excursion ; yet in view of the sudden changes of 
 weather, which are common at this season of the year, I 
 did not think best to cross the wide bay, but took four 
 
160 A WATER EXCURSION. 
 
 Chenook Indians, and a half breed named Thomas Pish 
 Kiplin, who could speak English, and went in a large 
 canoe down to Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from 
 the fort. There was a gentle wind from the east, which 
 favored hoisting a small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail 
 until it increased to the rate of eight miles an hour; by 
 this time the waves had become so high, and the white 
 caps were so numerous, that, to one not acquainted with 
 nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe appeared immi- 
 nent. We could only run before the wind, and when we 
 were upon the top of one wave, it seemed the next plunge 
 would be fatal. Fears were of no avail in this situation, 
 and I therefore kept up such conversation as was calcula- 
 ted to suppress any which might arise in the minds of the 
 men. It was interesting to see how the Indians would 
 take the waves with their paddles so as to favor the safe- 
 ty of the canoe. But our rapid progress soon brought us 
 to the shore near Point Adams. Here a new and unex- 
 pected difficulty presented itself, and this was the almost 
 utter impracticability of effecting a landing in the high 
 surf; but my skilful mariners watched an opportunity to 
 shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on a flowing 
 wave, and as soon as it broke, they leaped into the water, 
 seized the canoe, lightened it over the returning surge, 
 and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This 
 management was an occular demonstration of the skill of 
 Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and 
 walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, 
 so far around to the south, that I had a view of the coast 
 north and south, as far as the eye could reach. High ba- 
 saltic rocks, in most parts perpendicular, lined the shores. 
 Who reared these volcanic walls but that Being, who sets 
 bounds to the sea, and has said, " hitherto shalt thou come, 
 but no farther, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." 
 
LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE. 161 
 
 This vast expanse of ocean and these stupendous works of 
 God fill the mind with awe. 
 
 In returning, I walked several miles beyond the place 
 where we landed, along the shore towards Young's bay, 
 and went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNeil, which 
 was on its way up the fort. In my excursion about Clat- 
 sop and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing 
 the dead, deposited as I have already described. 
 
 I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, 
 and Sand Island, as dangerous to those who were not well 
 acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year 
 1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little 
 within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were 
 lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum- 
 stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left 
 to tell the story. There were conjectures that after the 
 ship had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, 
 killed the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very 
 strange that none escaped, as they were not far from the 
 shore, and the beach was sandy. The Indians carried off 
 and secreted whatever of the goods they could find. The 
 men of the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to de- 
 liver up what they had taken away. They sent to Dr. 
 McLaughlin at Fort Vancouver two small articles of no 
 value. Dr. M. with an armed force went down to the 
 Chenooks and demanded a surrender of the goods. The 
 chief, with his warriors, put himself in an attitude of resis- 
 tance, and fired upon the men of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany. They returned the fire with a swivel, not to injure 
 them, but to let them know with what force they had to 
 contend, if they persisted in their resistance. On this the 
 Indians all fled into the woods. Dr. McLaughlin with his 
 men landed and searched for the goods, many of which 
 
162 ISABELLA AND TONQUIN. 
 
 they found. Whilst they were searching, the chief was 
 seen skulking and drawing near ; he cocked his gun, but 
 before he had time to fire, one of the white men shot him 
 down. None besides were hurt. This was done, as the 
 Hudson Bay Company say, not so much for saving the 
 value of the property, as to teach the Indians not to ex- 
 pect profit from such disasters, and to take away tempta- 
 tion to murder white men for the sake of plunder. 
 
 On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast 
 away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand Island, which 
 is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the 
 men all deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, 
 made their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if 
 they had remained on board and waited the tide, she might 
 have been preserved. The cargo was mostly saved. 
 
 In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr. 
 Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the 
 mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. 
 The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn 
 of the dangers, and his great want of prudence. 
 
 About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains 
 of a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by 
 whom she was owned, nor from what part of the world 
 she came, nor when cast away. The Indians frequently 
 get beeswax from her, and it is highly probable that she 
 was from some part of Asia. 
 
 A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of 
 Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men 
 only three were saved. In the following May, Captain 
 McNeil, of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort 
 Vancouver, where they were kindly treated by the gentle- 
 men of the Hudson Bay Company, and in the following 
 October were sent to England, to be forwarded to their 
 
JAPANESE. 163 
 
 own country and home.* This junk was loaded with rich 
 China ware, cotton cloths, and rice. In the same year 
 eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to 
 Oahu, Sandwich Islands. It is not very uncommon that 
 junks and other craft have been found by whale ships in 
 the great Pacific ocean, the crews in a state of starvation, 
 without the nautical instruments and skill necessary to en- 
 able them to find their way to any port of safety. Un- 
 doubtedly many are entirely lost, while others, drift to 
 unknown shores. 
 
 May not such facts throw light upon the question of the 
 original peopling of America, which has engaged the at- 
 tention of men for a long period. While one man demon- 
 strates to his own satisfaction, that the first inhabitants of 
 this continent must have crossed from the north-east part 
 of Asia, because of the resemblance of the people to each 
 other, and the ease with which the straight is passed in 
 canoes; another with no less certainty, proves from the 
 diversity of languages, from the impossibility of tracing 
 their origin, and from other reasons, that an equatorial 
 union of Africa and America must have existed in some 
 age of the world since the universal deluge, and that some 
 violent convulsion of nature has since dissevered them. 
 Others would recognize in the aborigines of this continent 
 
 *From documents which have come to hand, since the publication of 
 the first edition of this work, I have been led to admire the wisdom of 
 Providence, as developed in the ca3e of these three Japanese. On their 
 way to their'couutry, they were brought to Macao. It is a well known 
 fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain access to the 
 Island of Jappan, and to obtain the means of acquiring the language of 
 the inhabitants. These three Japanese having been so long in foreign 
 countries, were afraid to go to their own country, without permission 
 from their government, and therefore Mr. Gutzlaff was enabled to ob- 
 tain them as teachers, and to assist him in translating the Scriptures, 
 and tracts, for distribution among the otherwise inaccessible population 
 of Japan, and thus to impart to them the riches of the Gospel of Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
164 GEESE, SWANS, DUCKS, ETC. 
 
 the descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace in 
 their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God's pe- 
 culiar people. But from whatever single or numerical 
 causes they have [had their origin, their own traditions, 
 and the histories of more civilized nations, seem alike un- 
 able to inform^ us. Physical causes alone, we think, are 
 adequate to account for the many features of resemblance 
 which they possess, though they might at different and 
 distant periods of time, have been drifted, or in some man- 
 ner found their way, from remote countries. Some see in 
 the aborigines of this country the confirmation of their fa- 
 vorite theory, that human institutions and states, like hu- 
 man and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, matu- 
 rity, and decay; and believe that, as it respects these 
 tribes, these tendencies have already, for centuries, been 
 in operation to produce their extinction. 
 
 About this time of the year, water fowl of various gen- 
 era and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as 
 the season advances, they gradually proceed into the inte- 
 rior of the country, where the rivers and lakes abound with 
 them. Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way 
 over us, and their screams, particularly those of the swans, 
 are at times almost deafening. The swan is not of the 
 species common in the United States. It is the Bewick's 
 swan, and is characterized by the same unsullied plumage ; 
 its attitudes and motions, while sailing over its liquid ele- 
 ment, are equally graceful, and its voice is even louder 
 and more sonorous. Of the geese there are four kinds ; 
 the white, white fronted, the Canada, and Hutchins. Of 
 the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, the canvass- 
 back, the blue-bill, the long tailed, the harlequin, the pin- 
 tail, and the golden-eyed. The number of these water 
 fowl is immense, and they may be seen on the wing, 
 swimming upon the waters, or searching for food along 
 
RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 165 
 
 the shores. They constitute a large item of Indian living 
 and trade, and find a conspicuous place upon the tables of 
 the gentlemen engaged in the fur business. 
 
 Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a 
 canoe, going to Fort Vancouver, on an express from the 
 Lama, recently arrived from a northern voyage to and 
 about Queen Charlotte's Island. The canoe was large, 
 carrying about fifteen hundred weight including men and 
 baggage, manned by three white men and three Indians. 
 The day was more pleasant than for some time past, a 
 favorable circumstance for passing through the bay, and 
 around Tongue Point, where the current was so strong 
 that it required the full exertion of the men to double it. 
 Ten miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above 
 which we encamped on the north side, where the moun- 
 tains come down so close to the shore, that I hardly found 
 space to pitch ray tent above high tide water. The men 
 made a large fire, which was cheering and most welcome, 
 and the supper which they prepared was eaten with a 
 keener appetite than many a one amidst all the ap- 
 pliances of wealth and luxury. 
 
 On the 29th we arose before day, and were willing to 
 take an early departure from a place where tide and 
 mountains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing 
 our w T ay until eight in the evening, we made forty-five 
 miles. This was a great day's work in going up the river 
 against the current, which is strong when the tide is set- 
 ting out. I noticed on my return, a singular rocky point 
 on the north shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, 
 rising nearly perpendicular about one hundred feet sepa- 
 rated from the adjacent high hills, and very much in 
 the form of Coffin Rock. It was covered with canoes 
 containing the dead These depositories are held in 
 great veneration by the Indians. They are not chosen 
 
166 REGARD FOR THE DEAD. 
 
 for convenience, but for security against ravenous beasts ; 
 and are often examined by the friends of the deceased, to 
 see if the remains of the dead repose in undisturbed quiet. 
 And such is their watchful care, that the anatomist could 
 rarely make depredations without detection, or with impu- 
 nity. And if they have such regard for the dead, are 
 they without affection for their living relatives and friends ? 
 Are they " callous to all the passions but rage V 9 Are 
 they " steeled against sympathy and feeling V 9 And have 
 they no happiness except what "exists in the visionary 
 dreaming of those, who never contemplated their actual 
 condition V 9 Have those, who charge upon the Indian 
 character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity and surprise 
 at what is new or striking," had extensive personal ac- 
 quaintance with many different Indian nations and tribes? 
 and have they gained their familiar friendship and confi- 
 dence ? I am firm in the belief, that the character of un- 
 abused and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in com- 
 parison with any other nation that can be named; and 
 the only material difference between man and man, is pro- 
 duced by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion. 
 Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor- 
 able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick- 
 ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the 
 necessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing 
 this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting 
 us in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the 
 Jog and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off 
 safely. After passing round a point, we saw a light on 
 the north shore, to which we directed our course and lan- 
 ded, where we found a small company of Indians encamp- 
 ed under a large projecting rock, giving shelter from the 
 storm. They kindly shared their accommodations with 
 us, and my tent was pitched under the concavity of the 
 
INDIAN KINDNESS. 107 
 
 rocks ; and mats, skins, and blankets, though spread upon 
 small stones, made me a comfortable bed. A good fire 
 and a refreshing supper obliviscited the labors of the day 
 and the dangers of the evening. 
 
 We arose on the 30th before day, and although the 
 morning was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the ex- 
 press to prosecute their voyage. I arranged my mats and 
 skins so as to shield myself and baggage from the rain ; 
 but the men, whose business it was to propel the canoe, 
 were exposed to the storm. After a few hours' labor and 
 exposure, we arrived at the place where the May Dacre 
 had made her harbor, near which the southern section of 
 the Willamette discharges its waters into the Columbia. 
 We brought our canoe into a small bay indented in the 
 basaltic rocks, and drew it so far upon the shore, that it 
 was thought safe without any other security ; and all hast- 
 ened to kindle a fire in a thatched building, which was 
 constructed by some Kanakas for the accommodation of 
 the May Dacre. This shelter was very desirable to pro- 
 tect us from the storm, and to give the men an opportuni- 
 ty to dry their clothes. Whilst we were preparing and 
 eating our breakfast, the flowing tide, which swells the 
 river and slackens the current, but does not stop it, took 
 our canoe from its moorings, and drifted it a considerable 
 distance down the river. Some indians whose residence 
 was far up the Cowalitz, and who were descending the 
 river in their canoes, saw it and returned with it before 
 we knew that it was gone. This act proved them to be 
 susceptible of kindness, and increased my confidence in 
 their integrity. The canoe contained valuable baggage, 
 and we should have been left without any means of going 
 on our way. We could not have crossed the Willamette 
 nor the Columbia river, and if this had been accomplished, 
 still to have attempted a return by land would have been 
 
168 
 
 ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER. 
 
 an almost hopeless undertaking, as the forest had an un- 
 dergrowth which rendered it quite impassable. The In- 
 dians are so much accustomed to travel in canoes, that 
 even the poor accommodation of a trail was not to be found 
 here, and we should have been compelled to dispute every 
 inch of the way with our hatchets. Before the middle of 
 the day, the storm abated, and the remainder of our way 
 to Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which place we ar- 
 rived before evening. We were less than three days in 
 accomplishing the passage from one fort to the other, and 
 these were the only three calm days for a long time before 
 and after. 
 
WINTER QUARTERS. 169 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Review of journeyings — school— journey up the Willamette — walk 
 upon the pebbly shores — falls— settlement on the Willamette — Me- 
 . thodist mission — epidemic— voyage down the river — hospitality of 
 Wanaxka — construction of his house — Fort William on the Wap- 
 patoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits — return to Fort 
 Vancouver. 
 
 Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and 
 welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay 
 Company, I took up my residence for the winter, intend- 
 ing to make such excursions as the season will admit and 
 the objects of my tour demand. As this is the principal 
 trading post of the company, west of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, it may be expected, that many Indians from different 
 parts of the country for considerable distance around, will 
 be seen here during the winter, and more information may 
 be obtained of their character and condition than in any 
 other course I could pursue. Here also traders from dif- 
 ferent stations west of the mountains will come in for new 
 supplies, of whose personal acquaintance with Indians I 
 may avail myself. 
 
 Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to 
 a congregation of those belonging to this establishment 
 who understand English. Many of the laborers are 
 French Canadians, who are Roman Catholics, and under- 
 stand only the French Language. 
 
 This trading post presents an important field of labor, 
 and if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be 
 of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian popula.- 
 8 
 
170 REVIEW OF JOURNEYINGS. 
 
 tion. Let a branch of Christ's kingdom be established 
 here, with its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted 
 and diffused, and this place would be a centre from which 
 divine light would shine out and illumine this region of 
 darkness. This is an object of so much importance, that 
 all my powers, and energies, and time, must be employed 
 for its accomplishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a 
 winter of idle confinement before me. 
 
 Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings 
 since I left my home, I can say, though long in time and 
 distance, yet they have been pleasant and full of interest. 
 So diversified has been the country through which I have 
 passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard- 
 ships, that the time and distance have both appeared short. 
 Although this mission was thought to be one which would 
 probably be attended with as great if not greater dangers 
 and deprivations than any which had been sent into any 
 part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small, 
 and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking 
 up the Cross, let none be dismayed ; for surely Christ's 
 yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much 
 on the prospect of having an opportunity to see whether 
 I could " rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen, " and fill 
 up that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ in my 
 flesh for his body's sake, which is the church," but the 
 protecting providence of God was so conspicuous and his 
 mercies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear 
 to be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough 
 to teach me more sensibly the meaning of the petition, 
 " give us this day our daily bread ;" and the truth was 
 comforting, that " the Lord giveth to all their meat in due 
 season." I can truly say, " hitherto the Lord hath helped 
 me." 
 
 I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in 
 

 SCHOOL. 171 
 
 a new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the 
 attendance which I can wish, with access to as many valu- 
 able books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to 
 ride out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country ; 
 and in addition to all these, the society of gentlemen, en- 
 lightened, polished and sociable. These comforts and 
 privileges were not anticipated, and are therefore the more 
 grateful. 
 
 There is a school connected with this establishment for 
 the benefit of the children of the traders and common 
 laborers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were 
 attached to the company ; and also some Indian children, 
 who are provided for by the generosity of the resident 
 gentlemen. They are instructed in the common branches 
 of the English language, such as reading, writing, arith- 
 metic, grammar and geography ; and together with these, 
 in religion and morality. The exercises of the school are 
 closed with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken 
 by their teacher to a garden assigned them, in which they 
 labor. Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instructed 
 them in singing, in which they made good proficiency, 
 and developed excellent voices. Among them was an 
 Indian boy who had the most flexible and melodious voice 
 I ever heard. 
 
 It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complex- 
 ion is seen in the half breed children. Generally they 
 have fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The 
 children of the school were punctual in their attend- 
 ance on the three services of the Sabbath, and were our 
 choir. 
 
 Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, 
 though generally very rainy at this season of the year, as 
 I wished to explore the country up the Willamette river, I 
 embraced an opportunity of going with Mr. Lucier and 
 
172 JOURNEY UP THE WILLAMETTE. 
 
 family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence 
 about sixty miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin fur- 
 nished and sent on board a stock of provisions, three or 
 four times more than I should need, if nothing should oc- 
 cur to delay us ; but such a precaution in this country is 
 always wise. We left Fort Vancouver about one o'clock 
 in the afternoon, and proceeded five miles down the Co- 
 lumbia to the entrance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen 
 up the Willamette before we encamped. The name 
 Multnomah is given to a small section of this river, from 
 the name of a tribe of Indians who once resided about six 
 miles on both sides from its confluence with the Columbia, 
 to the branch which flows down the southern side of the 
 Wappatoo island. Above this it is called the Willamette.* 
 The tide sets up this river about thirty miles, to within a 
 few miles of the falls, and through this distance the 
 river is wide and deep, affording good navigation for ship- 
 ping. 
 
 The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles 
 up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in 
 the June freshet; but as we ascend, the banks become 
 higher and are more generally covered with woods. The 
 country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, suffi- 
 ciently interspersed with woods for all the purposes of 
 fuel, fencing, and lumber. 
 
 A chain of mountains running from the south south-east 
 to the north north-west, and through which the Columbia 
 river passes below Deer island, extends along the west 
 shore of this river for some distance near and below the 
 falls. 
 
 There are probably as many Indians who navigate this 
 river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower 
 
 # Pronounced with accent on the second syllable, Wil-lam'-ette. 
 
WALK ON SHORE. 173 
 
 country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observing 
 to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose paddles 
 broke in upon the general silence. One company over- 
 took us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the 
 elevated shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the 
 dampness of the day, and previous rains, w T e had some diffi- 
 culty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished, 
 and the wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent 
 pitched before a large fire, under the canopy of wide- 
 branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker 
 basket with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any 
 splendid mansion. The blaze of dry, crackling fir threw 
 brilliancy around, softened by the dark forest, like the 
 light of the astral lamp ; and the burning balsam per- 
 fumed the air. The latter part of the night, I suffered 
 more with the cold than at any time in all my journeying, 
 not having taken with me as many blankets as the season 
 required. 
 
 The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and 
 rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the 
 river, which, collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the 
 surrounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fan- 
 cies which works of art may imitate, but which only na- 
 ture can perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the 
 day, we passed several basaltic islands, some of them of 
 sufficient magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only 
 rocky points, between which the current was strong, re- 
 quiring much effort for us to make headway. Part of the 
 way from our last encampment, to the falls, which was 
 six miles, I walked along upon the pebbled shore, where 
 I found calcedony, agate, jasper, and carnelian, of good 
 quality. Two miles below the falls, a large stream comes 
 in from the south-east, called Pudding river. Its entrance 
 makes a strong current, which we found difficult to stem, 
 
174 FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE. 
 
 so that we were drifted back in spite of all our efforts ; but 
 in the second attempt we succeeded. We arrived at the 
 falls of the Willamette at two o'clock in the afternoon, and 
 hired eight Clough-e-wal-lah Indians to carry the canoe by 
 the falls, a distance of half a mile ; we proceeded about five 
 miles farther before evening. These falls, with the scenery 
 around, have much to charm and interest. The river above 
 spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and 
 smoothly until within a half mile of the falls, when its ve- 
 locity increases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed, in 
 which the water turns back as if loth to make the plunge, 
 but is forced forward by the water in the rear, and when 
 still nearer, it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered 
 across the channel ; then, as if resigned to its fate, smooths 
 its agitated surges, and precipitates down an almost per- 
 pendicular of twenty-five feet, presenting a somewhat 
 whitened column. It was a pleasant day, and the rising 
 mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow ; and the 
 grass about the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was 
 in fresh green. The rocks over which the water falls, and 
 along the adjacent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. 
 The opportunities here for water power are equal to any 
 that can be found. There cannot be a better situation for 
 a factory village than on the east side of the river, where 
 a dry, wide-spread level extends some distance, and the 
 basaltic shores form natural wharves for shipping. The 
 whole country around, particularly the east side, is pleas- 
 ant and fertile. And can the period be far distant when 
 there will be here a busy population? I could hardly 
 persuade myself that this river had for many thousand 
 years, poured its waters constantly down these falls with- 
 out having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in these 
 contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not 
 the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock 
 
SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE. 175 
 
 and all was still except the roar of the falling water. I 
 called to recollection that in the year 1809, 1 stood by the 
 falls of the Genesee river, and all was silence except the 
 roar of the cataract. But it is not so now j for Rochester 
 stands where I then stood. 
 
 Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we 
 went on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river, 
 which for thirty miks runs from a westerly direction, 
 and at half past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. 
 This and Jarvis' settlement, twelve miles above, contain 
 about twenty families. The settlers are mostly Canadian 
 Frenchmen with Indian wives. There are a very few 
 Americans. The Frenchmen were laborers belonging to 
 the Hudson Bay Company, but have left that service, and 
 having families, they have commenced farming in this 
 fertile section of country, which is the best of the Oregon 
 Territory that I have as yet seen. It is well diversified 
 with woods and prairies, the soil is rich and sufficiently 
 dry for cultivation, and at the same time well watered 
 with small streams and springs. These hunters, recently 
 turned to farmers, cultivate the most common useful pro- 
 ductions — wheat of the first quality to as great an extent 
 as their wants require. A small grist mill is just finished, 
 which adds to their comforts. They have a common 
 school in each settlement, instructed by American young 
 men who are competent to the business. 
 
 An opinion extensively prevails that an American col- 
 ony is located somewhere in this territory, but these two 
 settlements are the only farming establishments which 
 exist here, if we except those connected with the trading 
 posts of the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which 
 was made some few years since by a company of men 
 from the United States, was an entire failure, and only a 
 
176 MISLETOE— METHODIST MISSION. 
 
 few individuals of whom I obtained any knowledge, have 
 found their way back to the States. 
 
 The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow- 
 ing remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body 
 and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beauti- 
 ful dark green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leaf- 
 less trees of winter, excite admiration that its verdure 
 should continue, when the trees, from which it derives 
 its life and support, are not able to sustain their own fo- 
 liage. 
 
 I rode on Thursday the 26th, twelve miles to Jarvis ? 
 settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich- 
 ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know 
 where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior 
 to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately 
 brought from California, fattening upon the fresh, luxuri- 
 ant grass of the prairies* 
 
 Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the 
 river, the Methodist church of the United States have 
 established a mission among the Calapooah Indians, Jtf 
 whom there are but few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason 
 Lee and Daniel Lee are the ordained missionaries, and 
 Mr. Shepard teacher. 
 
 Their principal mode of instruction, for the present, is 
 by means of schools. They have at this time fourteen In- 
 dian children in their school, supported in their family, and 
 the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can accom- 
 modate them. Their facilities for providing for their 
 school are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as 
 much excellent land as they wish, and to raise the neces- 
 saries of life in great abundance, with little more labor 
 than what the scholars can perform, for their support. 
 The missionaries have an additional opportunity of use- 
 
EPIDEMIC* ' 177 
 
 fulness, which is to establish a Christian influence among 
 the people of these infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee 
 preaches to them on the Sabbath, and they have a very 
 interesting Sabbath school, among the half-breed children. 
 These children generally have fair complexions, active 
 minds, and make a fine appearance. The prospect is, that - 
 this mission may lay a foundation for extensive usefulness. 
 There is as yet one important desideratum — the mission- 
 aries have no wives. Christian white women are very 
 much needed to exert an influence over Indian females. 
 The female character must be elevated, and until this is 
 done, but little is accomplished ; and females can have 
 access to, and influence over females in many departments 
 of instruction, to much better advantage than men. And 
 the model, which is furnished by an intelligent and pious 
 family circle, is that kind of practical instruction, whether 
 at home or abroad, which never fails to recommend the 
 gospel. 
 
 At the time of my continuance in this place a singular 
 epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several 
 persons died. The subjects of the complaint were at- 
 tacked with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, 
 which soon spread through the whole head, with great 
 heat in the part affected ; at the same time the pulse be- 
 came very feeble and not very frequent — soon the extremi- 
 ties became cold, and a general torpor spread through the 
 whole system, except the head— soon they became sense- 
 less, and in a short period died. In some cases the attack 
 was less severe, and the patient lingered, and after some 
 days convalesced, or continued to sink until death closed 
 his earthly existence. 
 
 Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. J. Lee several 
 tniles south to see more of the country. The same rich, 
 black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass, in abun- 
 8* 
 
178 HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA. 
 
 dance ; and also, the same diversity of wood and prairie. 
 This valley is generally about fifty miles wide, east and 
 west, and far more extended north and south. 
 
 Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an Indian 
 
 . boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night 
 
 with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school 
 
 and the Sabbath school attended, and conducted with 
 
 propriety. 
 
 On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil 
 an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the Sab- 
 bath. I stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily 
 attached to the mission, but now teaching school in this 
 settlement. 
 
 Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement 
 assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con- 
 gregation, but not more than half of them could under- 
 stand English. 
 
 After service I was called to visit a Mr. Cathre, who 
 was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which 
 gave him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and, as I 
 afterward learned, he recovered. 
 
 Early on Monday morning, the 30th, McKey furnished 
 me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the 
 falls, where we arrived safely at three o'clock in the after- 
 noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small 
 village of the Clough-e-wal-lah tribe, who have a perma- 
 nent residence a little below the falls, to carry me in a 
 canoe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, the chief, came up 
 to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the 
 night, and invited me to share the hospitality of his house. 
 I hesitated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but 
 feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On, 
 the other hand, there was every appearance of a cold 
 heavy storm, and very little wood near, which I could pro- 
 
CONSTRUCTION OF HIS HOUSE. 179 
 
 cure for a fire with my hatchet only, and I should be alone, 
 exposed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, 
 however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would 
 gratify the chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with 
 him to his dwelling, which was a long, permanent build- 
 ing on the west side of the river, upon an elevation of one 
 hundred feet, and near which were several other buildings 
 of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the 
 chief, there were two other families in the same building, 
 in sections of about twenty feet, separated from each other 
 by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of 
 logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink 
 any part of their buildings below the surface of the earth, 
 as some of the Indians do about and below the Cascades. 
 The walls of the chief's house were about seven feet high, 
 with the roof more steeply elevated than is common in the 
 United States, and made of the same materials with the 
 walls, except that the planks were of less thickness. They 
 have only one door to the house, and this is in the centre 
 of the front side. They have no chimneys to carry off the 
 smoke, but a hole is left open above the fire place, which 
 is in the centre of each family's apartment. This answers 
 very well in calm weather, but when there is much wind, 
 the whole building becomes a smoke house. The fire 
 place of the chief's apartment was sunk a foot below the 
 surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by a frame 
 around, and mats were spread upon the floor for the family 
 to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the 
 apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with moveable 
 ladders for ascent ; and under them they stow away their 
 dried fish, foots, berries, and other effects. There was not 
 an excess of neatness within, and still less without. The 
 Indians in the lower country, who follow fishing and fowl- 
 ing for a livelihood; are far from being as neat as those in 
 
180 A MORNING VOYAGE. 
 
 the upper country, who depend more upon the chase. 
 The latter live in moveable lodges, and frequently change 
 their habitations. But these Indians were also kind 
 They gave me most of one side of the fire place, spread 
 down clean new mats, replenished their fire, and were 
 ready to perform any service I should wish. They filled 
 my tea-kettle, after which I spread out the stores so boun- 
 tifully provided by Doct. McLaughlin, and performed my 
 own cooking. During the evening, the chief manifested a 
 disposition to be sociable, but w T e had very little language 
 common to us both, besides the language of signs. The 
 next thing, when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify 
 myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first 
 spread down the cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and 
 wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and should have 
 slept comfortably, had I not too fully realized my appre- 
 hensions. 
 
 December 1st. As soon as daylight appeared, I left 
 the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two 
 Indians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen 
 miles before we landed for breakfast. I find a great dif- 
 ference in going with or against the current of these 
 rivers. Since going up this river, the number of swans 
 and geese had greatly multiplied upon the waters and 
 along the shores. Their noise, and especially that of the 
 swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. The swan 
 is a beautiful and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, 
 clear white color, and graceful movements place it among 
 the very first of the winged tribe. The common seal are 
 numerous in this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, 
 even with the best rifles, on account of their diving with 
 extreme suddenness at the flash. I had a fair opportunity 
 to shoot one to-day, but with one splash he was out of 
 sight and did not again appear. When I came to the 
 
LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS. 181 
 
 north-western branch of the Multnomah, I proceeded down 
 four miles to Fort William, on the Wappatoo island, an 
 establishment which belongs to Captain Wyeth and Com- 
 pany. The location is pleasant, and the land around is of 
 the first quality. 
 
 Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place 
 here between two men from the United States. The 
 subject of their dispute was an Indian woman. Thorn- 
 burgh was determined to take her from Hubbard, even at 
 the risk of his own life. He entered Hubbard's cabin in 
 the night, armed with a loaded rifle, but H. saw him and 
 shot him through the breast, and violently thrust him 
 through the door. Poor T. fell, and expired. In the ab- 
 sence of any judicial tribunal, a self-created jury of inquest, 
 on examination into the circumstances of the case, brought 
 in a verdict of " justifiable homicide." 
 
 In Thornburgh, was an instance of a most insatiable ap- 
 petite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, 
 whom I have before mentioned, told me he had encamped 
 out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at- 
 tending to the business of his profession j and that in addi- 
 tion to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens of 
 reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits. Several 
 days after he was in this encampment, he went to his keg 
 to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits gone. 
 Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been sev- 
 eral times loitering about, charged him with having drank 
 off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as 
 an apology. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver, 
 well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gen- 
 erally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. The 
 whole country is adapted by nature to yield to the hand 
 of cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without claiming 
 
182 RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 
 
 to "be prophetic, will be filled, through the whole extent 
 of the valley of the Willamette, with farms spread out 
 in rich luxuriance, ajid inhabitants, whose character will 
 depend upon the religious advantages or disadvantages 
 which benevolent and philanthropic individuals give or 
 withhold. I found the people of the fort in their usual 
 active business pursuits, and received a renewed and cor- 
 dial welcome. 
 
SERVICES ON THE SABBATH. 183 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Services on the Sabbath — obstacles to the gospel— discouraging case — 
 manner of spending time — description ol Vancouver — fur and farm- 
 ing establishment— garden productions— lumber — commerce— pelt- 
 ries— system of the Hudson Bay Company — waste of life— hardships 
 of a hunter's life— their perseverance— Christian principle— worldly 
 principle. 
 
 Sabbath, Dec. the 6th. I have attended three services 
 — morning, afternoon and evening, and expect to continue 
 them during my residence in this place. Through ' the 
 week there will be but few opportunities to do much for 
 the spiritual benefit of the common laborers ; for in this 
 high northern latitude, the days in the winter are so short 
 that the men are called out to their work before daylight, 
 and continue their labor until near dark ; and as their 
 families do not understand English, I have no direct means 
 of benefitting them. 
 
 There is another circumstance which operates against 
 the prospects of benefitting many of the population here — 
 the common practice of living in families without being 
 married. They do not call the women with whom they 
 live, their wives, but their women. They know they are 
 living in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and 
 acknowledge it, by asking how they can, with any con- 
 sistency, attend to their salvation, while they are living in 
 sin. I urged the duty of entering into the marriage rela- 
 tion. They have two reasons for not doing so. One is, 
 that if they may wish to return to their former homes and 
 friends, they cannot take their families with them. The 
 other is, that these Indian women do not understand the 
 
184 DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 obligations of the marriage covenant, and if they, as hus- 
 bands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet their wives 
 might through caprice, leave them, and they should be 
 bound by obligations which their wives would disregard. 
 
 There is no doubt, that this subject is attended with 
 real difficulties, but are they insurmountable ? Has God 
 given a law, which if obeyed, would not secure our great- 
 est and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a 
 moment the pleasures of a sinful life against interests which 
 stand connected inseparably with permanent happiness, 
 and with a duration, compared to which, the whole of 
 this mortal life is but a speck, a nothing. My heart is 
 pained when I witness the things which are seen and 
 temporal, preferred to those that are unseen and pure, 
 and which are commensurate with existence itself. I 
 cannot believe, that if these men should marry the women 
 with whom they live, and do all they could to instruct 
 them, and treat them with tenderness and respect, that 
 there would be many cases of their leaving their husbands. 
 And whatever might be the results, it is always better to 
 suffer wrong, than to do wrong. But their social comforts 
 are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that Ihey feel, 
 as they express their own case, that it is useless to make 
 any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until they shall be 
 placed in different circumstances. 
 
 As much of my time, through the week, was occupied 
 in study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural 
 history of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and 
 the character and condition of the Indians, which came 
 under my observation at different times and places ; and 
 also that which I obtained from persons whose testimony 
 could be relied upon, and which came under their personal 
 observation, I shall give them without particular dates. 
 I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, 
 
THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 185 
 
 in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different tra- 
 ding posts of the Hudson Bay Company \ I have also giv- 
 en a brief description of the local situation of Fort Van- 
 couver. This was taken from such observations as I could 
 make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey 
 to the shores of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was 
 commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that 
 the gentlemen who are engaged in transacting the busi- 
 ness of the Company west of the mountains, and their la- 
 borers, should be better and less precariously supplied with 
 the necessaries of life, than what game furnishes ; and the 
 expenses of transporting suitable supplies from England 
 being too great, it was thought important to connect the 
 business of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to 
 their necessary demands \ and as this fort is the central 
 place of business to which shipping come, and from which 
 they depart for different parts of the ncrth-west coast, and 
 to and from which, brigades of hunting parties come and 
 go ; the principal farming business was established here, 
 and has been progressing until provisions are furnished in 
 great abundance. There are large fertile prairies, which 
 they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing 
 materials and other purposes. In the year 1835, at this 
 post, there were four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one 
 hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats, and three 
 hundred hogs. They had raised the same year five thou- 
 sand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever saw ; one 
 thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one thousand 
 of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of peas, and 
 a large variety of garden vegetables. This estimate does 
 not include the horses, horned cattle, &c. and produce 
 raised at other stations. But little, however, is done at 
 any of the others, except Colvile, the uppermost post on 
 the northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of this 
 
"186 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 
 
 station, enclosing about five acres, is laid out with regu- 
 larity and good taste. While a large part is appropriated 
 to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and 
 flowers are not neglected. Fruit of various kinds, such as 
 apples, peaches, grapes and strawberries, for the time 
 they have been introduced, flourish and prove that the 
 climate and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horti- 
 culture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs, oranges, and 
 lemons, have also been introduced, and grow with about 
 the same care that they would require in the latitude of 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 In connection with this business and farming establish- 
 ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox-power, 
 which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of 
 excellent quality. Six miles up the Columbia, at the con- 
 fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have 
 a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation 
 most of the year. This mill, though large, does not fur- 
 nish more lumber than a common mill would, with one 
 saw, in the United States. There being no pine below 
 the Cascades, and but very little within five hundred miles 
 of the mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed 
 in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in 
 the common business about this station, one, and sometimes 
 two ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich Is- 
 lands, and it is there called pine of the north-west coast, 
 and sells for about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars 
 and timber for shipping are also sent to that market. 
 Boards of fir are not so durable when exposed to the 
 weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One 
 half of the grain of each annual growth is very hard, and 
 the other half soft and spungy, which easily absorbs mois- 
 ture and causes speedy decay. There is a bakery here, 
 in which two or three men are in constant employment^ 
 
HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 187 
 
 which furnishes bread for daily use in the fort, and a large 
 supply of sea biscuit for the shipping and trading stations 
 along the north-west coast. There are also shops for 
 blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a tinner. 
 
 Here is a well regulated medical department, and a hos- 
 pital for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which 
 also Indians who are laboring under any difficult and 
 dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases have 
 j gratuitous attendance. 
 
 Among the large buildings, there are four for the 
 trading department. One for the Indian trade in which 
 are deposited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for 
 goods opened for the current year's business, and another 
 for storing goods in a year's advance. Not less than a 
 ship load of goods is brought from England annually, and 
 always at least one in advance of their present use, so that 
 if any disaster should befal their ship on her passage, the 
 business of the Company would not have to be suspended. 
 By this mode of management, there is rarely less than two 
 ship loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in 
 the spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, 
 freighted with lumber to that island, and bringing back 
 to Vancouver, salt and other commodities, but generally 
 not enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or 
 in the first of October, she sails for England with the pelt- 
 ries obtained during the preceding year. 
 
 The fur business about the west of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for 
 so extensively and constantly have every nook and corner 
 been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur ani- 
 mals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude, that 
 it will not be many years before this business will not be 
 worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of 
 north latitude; north of this, in the colder and more 
 
188 HUDSON SAY COMPANY. 
 
 densely wooded regions, the business will not vary in any 
 important degree. 
 
 But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur 
 business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever suc- 
 ceeded in making it profitable. Several companies have 
 sustained great loss or entire failure, owing generally to 
 their ignorance of the country, and the best mode of pro- 
 cedure. The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, 
 were inexperienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans 
 generally, they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their 
 labor and industry, without the time and patience requisite 
 to insure it. Hence the results have frequently been dis- 
 appointment. The Hudson Bay Company have reduced 
 their business to such a system, that no one can have the 
 charge of any important transactions, without having 
 passed through the inferior grades, which constitute seve- 
 ral years apprenticeship. The lowest order are what 
 they call servants, (common laborers.) All above these 
 are called gentlemen, but of different orders. The lowest 
 class are clerks ; then chief clerks ; next traders and 
 chief traders ; factors, and chief factors ; and the highest, 
 governors. Of the last named officers there are only two ; 
 one resides in London, who is at the head of the whole 
 business of the company, and the other resides in Mon- 
 treal, Lower Canada. There are only two chief factors 
 west of the mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq. and Dun- 
 can Finlayson, Esq., and with them are associated in busi- 
 ness several chief traders and traders, and chief clerks and 
 clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are proportioned to 
 the stations they occupy. This being their system, no 
 important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced 
 person. 
 
 It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all 
 those who engage in the fur business about, and west of 
 
THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER. 189 
 
 the Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and 
 to their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, 
 told me that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- 
 ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the 
 necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third 
 of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more 
 than two hundred who have been in his employment in 
 less than three years, only between thirty and forty were 
 known to be alive. From these data it may be seen that 
 the life of hunters in these far western regions averages 
 about three years. And with these known facts, still 
 hundreds and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunt- 
 er's life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dan- 
 gers and death. The estimate has been made from sources 
 of correct information, that there are nine thousand white 
 men in the north and in the great west, engaged in the 
 various departments of trading, trapping and hunting, in- 
 cluding Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It 
 is more than one hundred and fifty years since white men 
 penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted 
 with goods, coasting the shores of the remote lakes, and 
 following up the still more remote rivers, to traffic with 
 the Indians for their furs, not regarding hunger, toils, and 
 dangers. These enterprises have been extended and pur- 
 sued with avidity, until every Indian nation and tribe have 
 been visited by the trader. 
 
 What is the power of that principle which draws these 
 thousands from their country, and their homes and all the 
 ties of kindred ? Are the love of gain and hope of wealth 
 the motives by which courage and daring are roused, and 
 dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less power- 
 ful principle 1 Has it only furnished twenty or thirty 
 missionaries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to 
 the many ten thousand Indians in the widely extended 
 
190 CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 
 
 Country, over which are ranging nine thousand traders, 
 trappers and hunters ? Are these the only evidences the 
 church of God can give of sincerity in her professions of 
 attachment to Christ, and to the interests of the immortal 
 soul ? If so, then Christians surely must suffer in com- 
 parison with worldly men, and our heaven-descended re- 
 ligion, if judged of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed 
 unworthy of its name and origin. But this want of 
 Christian enterprise, characterized by the late period in 
 which it is begun, and carried forward with such slow and 
 faltering steps, is not only to be lamented as a blot upon 
 the Christian name, but incomparably more is it to be 
 lamented, that in consequence, generation after generation 
 of the heathen, to say nothing of the thousands who are 
 trafficking among them, are left in their ignorance of the | 
 Savior to perish eternally. How long shall it be, that 
 when an adventurous man forms a plan for traffick in far 
 distant wilds, in a short time a company is formed with a 
 capital of fifty thousand dollars, and a hundred men are 
 found to face hardships and dangers, and they are away ? 
 But when a Christian heart is stirred up to go and carry 
 the gospel to some far distant Indian nation, he may plead 
 and plead for four men and two thousand dollars, and per- 
 haps in vain. But it is said, much is now doing for the 
 heathen world. How much ? As much as to give Jive 
 ministers to the United States. All that is doing for the 
 conversion of the heathen is not more than it would cost 
 to build, and man, and defray the expenses of one ship of 
 war. 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
INDIAN POPULATION. 191 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Indian population — diseases— mortality — attributed to cultivation 0/ 
 Ihe soil — Indians destitute of medical science—holidays— customs 
 at home— customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in 
 punishment— marriage contracts— condition of the females— slavery 
 —divisions into tribes — one point of dissimilarity — language. 
 
 I have found the Indian population in the lower coun- 
 try, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than 
 I had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke 
 made their tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven- 
 eighths, if not as Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, 
 have been swept away by disease, principally by fever 
 and ague. The malignancy of this disease may have been 
 increased by predisposing causes, such as intemperance, 
 and the influence of intercourse with sailors. But a more 
 direct cause of the great mortality, was their mode of 
 treatment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged 
 i themselves into some lake or river, and continued in the 
 water until the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the 
 ; cold stage which followed. So many and so sudden were 
 the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed 
 i with the unburied dead. Whole and large villages were 
 i depopulated ; and some entire tribes have disappeared, 
 ) but where there were any remaining persons, they united 
 with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only 
 from the vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pa- 
 cific, but far north and south ; it is said as far south as 
 California. The fever and ague was never known in this 
 country before the year 1829, and Dr. McLaughlin men- 
 tioned it as a singular circumstance, that this was the year 
 
195 HOLIDAYS. 
 
 in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He 
 thought there must have been some connexion between 
 breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that 
 the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the 
 same time, and in places which had not before been sub- 
 ject to the complaint. The mortality, after one or two 
 seasons, abated, partly from the want of subjects, and 
 partly from medical assistance obtained from the hospital 
 at Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their 
 sufferings under diseases are far greater than they would 
 be, if they were furnished with a knowledge of medicine. 
 Indian doctors are only Indian conjurers. But I shall have 
 occasion to say more upon this subject when I describe In- 
 dian customs. 
 
 December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these 
 far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New 
 Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of indul- 
 gence and festivity commences. Only this once in the 
 whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when 
 they have a free allowance, furnishing them the oppor- 
 tunity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were 
 easily and always accessible. On Christmas morning they 
 dress themselves in their best attire — accelerated move- 
 ments are seen in every direction, and preparation is made 
 for dinners, which are sure to be furnished in their first 
 style, and greatest profusion ; and the day passes in mirth 
 and hilarity. But it does not end with the day ; for the 
 passions and appetites pampered through the day, prepare 
 the way for the night to be spent in dancing ; and loud 
 and boisterous laughter, shouts, and revelry, consume the 
 hours designed for rest. They continue these high-strung 
 convivialities until they pass the portals of the new year, 
 when labor and toil resume their place. 
 
 Such are often the customs of those who profess to be 
 
CUSTOMS AT HOME. 193 
 
 wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes amidst the 
 noise and revels of many, who pretend by such methods 
 to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of 
 that only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect 
 order. And too many give, as they profess, but a decent 
 honor and respect to those festival days, when from house 
 to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is 
 circulated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is 
 it so, that these days are baptized with the name of holy 
 days ? The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly -led 
 them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's 
 birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are 
 greatly abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring 
 about a reformation ; and if this cannot be done, then to 
 abolish the custom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, 
 in the case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as 
 a memorial of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it, 
 for those who were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed 
 it when the people idolized and burned incense to it. 
 
 The question whether there is any evidence that the In- 
 dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though 
 frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily 
 answered. From all the personal observations I could 
 make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any 
 thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to be- 
 lieve that their origin will remain as problematical in 
 future, as it has been in time past. But we know enough 
 of their origin for all practical purposes, since we know 
 that they are a part of the fallen family of man, and there- 
 fore need to know the way of salvation through Jesus 
 Christ. Their are some things in their belief and customs 
 which favor the idea that they are of Israelitish descent. 
 Their entire freedom from idolatry is a peculiar character- 
 istic, by which they are distinguished from all other 
 9 
 
194 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 
 
 heathen. Where can another heathen nation "be found, 
 who have no idols or idol worship? It will be remem- 
 bered that this propensity of the Jews to idolatry was en- 
 tirely subdued from the time of their captivity in Babylon. 
 Among the Indians beyond the mountains, I found no idols, 
 nor any appearance of idolatry. They believe in only one 
 God, and all their worship, so far as they have any, is 
 offered to Him. They believe in the immortality of the 
 soul, and future rewards and punishments. Their knowl- 
 edge of these important truths is very inadequate and im- 
 perfect, as might be supposed, since they are destitute of 
 the light of divine revelation. It was predicted by the 
 prophet Hosea of the children of Israel, that " they should 
 abide many days without a king, and without a prince, 
 and without a sacrifice." They have no sacrifices, no kings, 
 and no prince. Their government is invested entirely in 
 their chiefs, no one of whom has any special control over 
 the others, or over the people, but they always act in uni- 
 ted councils. Their minds are perfectly open to receive 
 any truth in regard to the character and worship of God. 
 They have many traditions and superstitions ; and some 
 persons can hardly see the distinction between a reverence 
 for these, and idol worship — for instance, though they 
 may believe, that the Great Wolf and the Gray Bear 
 scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they do 
 not worship either. 
 
 Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does 
 not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet it 
 coincides with what was the custom of the Jews. The 
 nearest relatives of the murdered person are the "avengers 
 of blood," the executioners, or " pursuers of blood." They 
 kill the murderer, if they can find him ; and in their own 
 tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any 
 other person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for 
 
RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 195 
 
 the children, neither are the children put to death for the 
 fathers ; every man is put to death for his own sin." As 
 the Jews did not regard other nations with the same be- 
 nevolence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction 
 between their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is 
 killed by a person belonging to another nation, if they 
 cannot obtain and put the murderer to death, they will 
 take the life of some of the relatives of the murderer ; or, 
 if they fail of this, some one of the nation must atone for 
 the crime. And if this cannot be done immediately, the 
 debt of blood will still be demanded, though years may 
 pass away before it is cancelled. 
 
 There is also, some resemblance in their marriage con- 
 tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, 
 with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of 
 Isaac's marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant 
 to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He 
 went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the 
 appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother, 
 and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's 
 approval closed the contract, and presents were made to 
 the several members of the family. The customs of the 
 Indians are substantially the same. The bridegroom ne- 
 gotiates with the parents, and the approbation of the 
 daughter being obtained, the stipulated commodities are 
 paid, and the man takes his wife. But as much or more 
 is given in dowry to the daughter. The presents and 
 dowry are proportioned to the rank and wealth of the 
 contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first chief of the 
 Clough-e-wal-lah Indians, has refused more than one 
 hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter, whom I saw when 
 I shared the hospitality of his house. A chief at the La 
 Dalles refused two horses and six blankets, together with 
 several other articles of smaller value. It is not to be un- 
 
196 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 
 
 derstood, however, that marriage is a mere mercenary 
 transaction ; for fancy and choice have their influence 
 with them, as well as among more refined people. 
 
 Another resemblance between the Indians and the Jews 
 may be traced in the estimation in which the females are 
 held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to be 
 attributed in a large degree to heathenism, and that un- 
 civilized and savage state in which we find them ; yet in 
 their respective occupations we find some features which 
 are not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do 
 not possess slaves, the women cut and gather wood for 
 fire, as well as prepare food for their families ; they pack 
 and unpack the horses, set up and take down lodges, 
 gather roots and berries for food, dress the skins for 
 clothing, and make them into garments. So the Jewish 
 women drew water for flocks and camels, and watched 
 over them ; they gleaned the fields in harvest ; they also 
 performed the work of grinding in the mill. Our Savior 
 refers to this, when he foretold the destruction of Jerusa- 
 lem. " Two women shall be grinding at the mill, one 
 shall be taken and the other left." 
 
 Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtedly 
 for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting 
 away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While 
 the Great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, 
 he brought it under modified restrictions. . The stealing 
 and selling a man was punishable with death. If a man 
 bought a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not 
 to exceed six years. Intermarriages took place between 
 these servants and the families of their masters ; and the 
 betrothed maid was to be treated like a daughter. The 
 same restrictions were not, however, enjoined in relation 
 to those bondmen of the heathen, until the days of the 
 prophets, when they were commanded to break every yoke 
 
RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 197 
 
 and let the oppressed go free. So also slavery exists in a 
 modified form among the Indians west of the mountains, 
 not generally, but only among the nationsin the lower 
 country. They are bought ; taken prisoners in war ; 
 taken in payment of debts, if they are orphans of the 
 debtor; and sell themselves in pledges. They are put to 
 the same service which women perform among those In- 
 dians who have no slaves. They are generally treated 
 with kindness ; live in the same dwelling with their mas- 
 ters, and often intermarry with those who are free. They 
 are exempt from one cruel practice which their master3 
 inflict upon their own children, the flattening of their heads. 
 The reason, which those who possess slaves assign for 
 flattening their own heads, is, that they may be distin- 
 guished from their slaves who have round heads. 
 
 Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with 
 nearly the same regulations with which it was practiced 
 among the Jews. Though they do not write bills of 
 divorcement and put away their wives, yet they send them 
 away on slight occasion. But this brings no disgrace on 
 the woman's character, and generally she is soon married 
 to another, and often as advantageously. 
 
 Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians 
 is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of 
 the children of Israel were the descendants of distin- 
 guished families, and their government was patriarchal. 
 The tribes among the Indians are constituted much in the 
 same way. Some important personage gains an influence, 
 numbers become attached to him ; and though they do 
 not separate from their nation, nor at once become a dis- 
 tinct tribe, yet they are denominated a band, and these 
 bands in many cases grow up into tribes. 
 
 How much allusion there may be to the ancient Jewish 
 custom of wearing " fringes to the borders of their gar- 
 
198 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 
 
 ments," I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts 
 from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among 
 the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation 
 extended — and so fond are they of this ornament to their 
 dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished 
 with it. 
 
 There is one consideration which should not be passed 
 over, and which may appear to be against the evidences 
 that the Indians are of Israelitish origin. 
 
 Every different nation has an entirely distinct language. 
 These languages are more distinct than the different lan- 
 guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of 
 Europe there are words derived from Latin, common to 
 each, which prove a common relation. Now if the Indians 
 are descended from the Jews, and of course once had a 
 common language, viz. the Hebrew, notwithstanding their 
 departure by different dialects from their original, might it 
 not be expected that there would still remain words and 
 idioms indicative of their common origin ? But it is not 
 so, as may be seen in a vocabulary of a few languages 
 which I shall subjoin. They have some words in common 
 with Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, but these are used in an 
 entirely different sense from that in which they are used 
 in those languages. As far as it respects language, the 
 proof of a Jewish, or even of a common origin, is not only 
 doubtful, but highly improbable. 
 
ANIMAL3. 199 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The various animals beyond the Mountains. 
 
 It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian 
 countries, and especially in the far regions beyond the 
 mountains, are very numerous ; but, excepting buffalo 
 within their range, which is becoming more and more 
 circumscribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of 
 animals beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute 
 description of those which are familiar to all classes of 
 persons. 
 
 Among the animals of the genus cervus, the elk is the 
 largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable num- 
 bers east of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous 
 on the west side. It combines beauty with magnitude 
 and strength, and its large towering horns give it an im- 
 posing appearance. Its senses are so keen, in apprehen- 
 sion, that it is difficult to be approached ; and its speed in 
 flight is so great that it mocks the chase. Its flesh re- 
 sembles beef, though less highly flavored, and is much 
 sought for by the Indians and hunters. Its skin is 
 esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and for 
 moccasons. 
 
 I did not see the moose ; they are said to be found 
 farther north, in the colder and woody regions. 
 
 There are three species of deer; the red, the black- 
 tailed, and the common American deer. Like those found 
 in other countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid 
 aspect i elegant in form, with slender, nervous limbs. 
 
200 ANIMALS. 
 
 When any object or noise alarms them, they throw up 
 their heads ; erect and move their ears in every direction to 
 catch the sounds ; snuff up the wind, and bound off with 
 great celerity. The deer west of the mountains are more 
 lean, and the flesh is less inviting than those found in the 
 United States. This may arise from the nature of the food 
 to which they are confined, having less opportunity for 
 browsing, especially upon such shrubbery as is congenial" 
 to their natures, there being but very lew of the sacchari- 
 ferous kinds found in their country. 
 
 The red deer are generally found about the Rocky 
 Mountains and upon the head waters of the Columbia. 
 
 The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow 
 color, like the common American deer, are somewhat 
 darker, and their tails are larger and nearly black, which 
 gives them their name. Their eyes are large and promi- 
 nent, their ears are also large and long, and judging from 
 those I saw, they are smaller than the common deer. 
 When they move faster than a walk, they bound. 
 
 The antelope, which I have already described, page 
 61st, are numerous in the upper and prairie country. 
 They are a species of the gazelle, but differ at least in 
 variety, from any described by zoologists as inhabiting the 
 eastern continent. These are said to be brown upon the 
 head, back, and outside of their limbs— the breast, belly, 
 and inside of the limbs, are white — and their horns are 
 sixteen inches long. But the antelopes of this country 
 are of different colors, often red, or red and white in 
 irregular patches. Their horns are similar to those of the 
 goat in size and length, but are recurved, and are not de- 
 ciduous. Like all the varieties of their genus, they are 
 beautifully formed, and are characterized by a prominent, 
 mild and beautiful eye, exceeding swiftness in running, 
 and agility in all their motions. Their feet are cloven, 
 
ANIMALS. 201 
 
 and their limbs are slender and delicate. They are gre- 
 garious and are often seen feeding in flocks of twenty or 
 more, or sporting upon the hills and in the valleys. They 
 seem to take a middle place between the goat and the 
 deer, though entirely distinct from either. 
 
 In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky moun- 
 tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the 
 Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep. I am unwilling to 
 state, as facts, the descriptions of others, especially as 
 there are so many wrong statements made in natural his- 
 tory. I did not see any of these animals, which probably 
 I should have done, if they w T ere as numerous a travelers 
 have said they are. I saw their horns, which are enor- 
 mously large, if, as it is said, their bodies are not much 
 larger than a common deer. A horn which I measured, 
 was five inches in diameter at its juncture with the head, 
 and eighteen long. Its flesh, of which I had an oppor- 
 tunity to eat, w 7 as far preferable to the best mutton. They 
 inhabit the mountains, and are said to select the most rough 
 and precipitous parts where grass is found. They are not 
 covered with wool, but with hair so bordering upon wool 
 as to render their coat warm in the winter. 
 
 The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my 
 observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them 
 for description, but succeeded in obtaining only small parts 
 of their skins. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted 
 for its valuable fur, for its activity and perseverance, its 
 social habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its 
 village, and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, 
 is an inhabitant of this country. It has been sought with 
 avidity, and has been a source of wealth to many, but to 
 multitudes, of poverty, misery, and death. It would be 
 difficult to sum up the woes of the last class of adventurers. 
 9* 
 
202 ANIMALS* 
 
 Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and hunter 
 depend almost entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its 
 pursuit. Although I ate several times the flesh of the 
 beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the 
 assertion often made, that while the flesh of the fore parts 
 is of the quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell 
 and taste like fish. I should think it would require much 
 assistance from imagination to discover the fish taste. 
 
 Here also the land otter is found, and is somewhat numer- 
 ous, and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the 
 hunter and trader. The shades of its eolor vary from a 
 light, to a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in 
 great demand, and there is none found in any country of 
 better quality than the skins I saw at different trading posts 
 of the Hudson Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to 
 land and water, having short and muscular legs, so articu- 
 lated that it can bring them horizontal with its body, and 
 use them as fins in the water ; and its toes are webbed like 
 water fowl. It subsists principally upon fish, frogs and 
 other aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems 
 to be its pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, 
 unless it be the love of amusement, which is to ascend a 
 high ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide 
 down head foremost upon its breast. "When there is no 
 snow, it will in the same manner slide down steep, smooth, 
 grassy banks. 
 
 The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich 
 fur, is found only along the American coast and adjacent 
 islands, from opposite Kamschatka, to Upper California. 
 They vary in size, are generally about four feet long when 
 full grown, and nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very 
 short, and its feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first qual- 
 ity, long and glossy, extremely fine, intermixed with some 
 hair ; the outside is black — sometimes, however, dusky, 
 
A.NIMALS. 203 
 
 and the inside a cinerous brown. They are amphibious, 
 sportive, and often bask upon the shore for repose, and 
 when asleep, the Indians approach and slay them. They 
 have been so much hunted for their valuable fur, that they 
 are rapidly diminishing in numbers. 
 
 The hair seal is very frequently seen in the w T aters of 
 Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eyes full 
 and mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, pre- 
 senting to view its head, neck and shoulders, appearing in 
 some degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various 
 colors, generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from 
 its most natural element, water ; but is sometimes seen 
 basking upon rocks on the shore, and this is the most 
 favorable opportunity for killing it ; for its motions are 
 so quick in the water, that it will submerge at the flash of 
 the rifle, and if killed in the water it sinks, and is difficult 
 to be obtained. 
 
 The racoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun- 
 try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not dis- 
 cover any difference in their appearance and habits from 
 those in the United States. 
 
 The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the 
 plains on both sides of the great chain of mountains. 
 Having given a short description of this animal, page 62, 
 when passing through the parts where it was seen, it is 
 not necessary in this place to make any further remarks. 
 
 The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and 
 muskrat, are common though not numerous in this coun- 
 try, and not differing from those on the eastern part of this 
 continent, they do not need description. 
 
 The prairie dog, briefly described on page 62, is found 
 both on the east and west sides of the mountains. It is 
 about fourteen inches long, and is rather heavily formed, 
 and is undoubtedly a distinct species of animal. It has 
 
204 ANIMALS. 
 
 received its name from a barking sound, like that of a very 
 small dog, which if utters when any danger is appre- 
 hended. It is covered with a rich, dark brown fur. They 
 live in communities and burrow in the ground, and their 
 villages often extend over some miles of territory, which 
 is so perforated as to endanger both horse and rider when 
 passing over them. Some one or more are selected for 
 sentinels, and are seated upon the small mounds formed 
 by excavating their dwellings, and while the principal 
 part of their community are busy in procuring food, these 
 sentinels are on the lookout, and as soon as danger threat- 
 ens, they give the alarm by a shrill bark, when all 
 instantly fly to their subterranean habitations for safety. 
 
 There is a small species of the marmot, of which I have 
 seen no description in any work on natural history, which 
 is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the 
 Nez Perces, duel ; is five inches long from the tip of its 
 nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its 
 body is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is 
 brown, beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon 
 its back ; the under parts of its body are of a dull white. 
 It has'eight long hairs projecting from the nose, on each 
 side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those 
 belonging to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its 
 movements. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury. 
 
 The w T olverine is said to inhabit these western regions, 
 and I saw one in the Salmon River mountains, which my 
 Indians killed. The animal differed in several particu- 
 lars from the description given by Richardson. It was 
 one foot nine inches from its nose to its tail ; its body was 
 not large in proportion to the length, short legs, small 
 eyes and ears : the neck short, and as large as the head, 
 and its mouth shaped like that of the dog. Its color was 
 uniformly a dark brown, nearly black \ and its fur was 
 
ANIMALS. 205 
 
 more than an inch long and coarse. I had no opportu- 
 nity of observing its habits. 
 
 The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon ter- 
 ritory, does not differ from those found in other parts of 
 America, and for its quills is held in high estimation by 
 the Indians. It is interesting to see with how much inge- 
 nuity, and in how many various forms, the Indians manu- 
 facture these quills into ornamental work, such as mocca- 
 sons, belts and various other articles. 
 
 There are three kinds of squirrels — two of which I have 
 already described. The third is the gray, which differs 
 from those in the United States,- in being larger and its 
 color more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins 
 made into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cas- 
 cades. 
 
 Of the feline or cat kind, there are the panther, the long- 
 tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The 
 panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and 
 country produce no change in its ferociousness and other 
 habits, from those found in other parts of America. The 
 long-tailed tiger cat is more common, very large and of a 
 dull, reddish color. Also the common wild cat js often 
 seen. It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is 
 like the above named. I can only name the lynx, as they 
 did not come under my observation. It is in the lower, 
 wooded country they are found, and the Indians say they 
 are numerous. 
 
 There are five different species of wolves ; the common 
 gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie 
 wolf. The common grey wolf is the same as those found 
 in the United States, and has all their common habits. 
 The black wolf, which I did not see, but as described by 
 Mr. Ermitinger, a gentleman belonging to the Hudson 
 Bay Company, is larger than the gray and more noble in 
 
206 ANIMALS. 
 
 its appearance, and is the strongest of the wolf kind. 
 Those which the same gentleman called the blue wolf, 
 are rarely seen, as also the white, and so far as their hab- 
 its are known, they do not materially differ from others. 
 The small prairie wolf is the most common, and bears the 
 greatest resemblance to the dog, and has been called the 
 wild dog. It differs from the dog in all the peculiarities 
 of the wolf kind as much as the others do. It is as uni- 
 form in its color, size and habits. They are of a dull red- 
 dish gray, never particolored ; the hair is always long, 
 blended with brown fur at its roots, and like other wolves 
 they are always prowling and cowardly. They are more 
 numerous than the other kinds, and in considerable num- 
 bers follow the caravans to feed upon the offals. Although 
 we frequently heard them howl and bark around our 
 encampments, yet they never disturbed our rest. 
 
 Much has been said I about the immense number of 
 wolves beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find 
 them so numerous as I expected. I do not make this 
 assertion solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a 
 few, but from the testimony of those whose long residence 
 in this country entitles them to credit. It is the traveler 
 who never saw the country he describes, or the lover of 
 the marvelous, or he who does not expect soon to be fol- 
 lowed in his route through dreary and uninhabited wilds, 
 who sees and minutely relates, adventures with the rep- 
 tiles and monsters of the desert. 
 
 The fox, which is generally dispersed through the 
 world, is found here in three different kinds ; the red, gray, 
 and silver. They do not differ from those found east of 
 the mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly 
 esteemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of 
 commerce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the 
 ends of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the 
 
ANIMALS. 507 
 
 uncommonly fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful 
 glossy appearance. 
 
 Martins are not abundant ; some are found about the 
 head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but 
 they are more numerous and of superior quality farther 
 north. 
 
 The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species, 
 abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct 
 for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its 
 large active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in 
 this, as in other regions. The three species are, the large 
 common hare, which is generally known ; the small chief 
 hare with large round ears ; and a very small species, only 
 five or six inches long, with pointed ears. If the first 
 named differs in any particular from those in the United 
 States, it is in its manner of running, and its speed. Its 
 bound is not regular, but its motions are an alternate 
 running and leaping at an almost incredible distance, and 
 with such swiftness that I frequently mistook it, at first 
 view, for the prairie hen, which I supposed was flying near 
 the surface of the ground. Its flesh, when used for food, 
 is tender and of a pleasant flavor. 
 
 The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro- 
 tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani- 
 mals, patched together into a scanty robe. 
 
 There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed 
 there are only two distinct species. These are the white, 
 grizzly, brown, and black. The white bear is ferocious 
 and powerful, but their numbers are so small in the region 
 of the Oregon country, that they are not an object of 
 dread. But the grizzly bear is far more numerous, more 
 formidable, and larger, some of them weighing six or eight 
 hundred pounds. Their teeth are formed for strength, and 
 
208 ANIMALS. 
 
 their- claws are equally terrific, measuring four or five 
 inches; and their feet, which are astonishingly large, ex- 
 clusive of the claws, measuring not far from ten inches 
 long, and five inches wide. There are some even larger. 
 The shades of their color vary from a very light gray to a 
 dark brown, always retaining the grizzly characteristic. 
 Among a multitude of their skins which I saw, there were 
 some beautifully dappled, and as large as buffalo robes. 
 These were held in high estimation. Their hair and fur 
 is longer, finer, and more abundant than of any other spe- 
 cies. They depend more upon their strength than speed 
 for taking their prey, and therefore generally lurk in wil- 
 lows or other thickets, and suddenly seize upon any animal 
 which may be passing near. The mountain men tell as 
 many wonderful stories about their encounters with these 
 prodigies of strength and ferocity, as some mountain tra- 
 velers tell us about constant battles with the Blackfeet In- 
 dians, and starvation, and eating dogs. Now I may be 
 considered deficient in a flexible and fruitful imagination, 
 if I do not entertain my readers with one bear story, after 
 having traveled thousands of miles over prairies, and moun- 
 tains, through valleys, ravines, and amongst caves, chasms 
 and deserts. But as I did not have any wonderful en- 
 counters, I must borrow from a gentleman of established 
 good character, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, 
 who gave me an account of a case which he witnessed. 
 He and a number of others were traveling in canoes up 
 » the Athabasca river, and on a morning one of their hunters 
 shot upon the shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which 
 they took on board a canoe, and of which they made their 
 supper on encamping for the night. While seated around 
 their fire in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain 
 cub approached, sprang across the circle and over the fire, 
 
ANIMALS. <>09 
 
 seized the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him across 
 her shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid hold 
 of their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they 
 should injure their companion. But he requested them 
 to fire, which one of them did and wounded the bear. 
 She then dropped the first offender, and laid hold of the 
 last in like manner as the first, but more roughly, and ac- 
 celerated her departure. There was no time to be lost, 
 and several fired at the same time, and brought her to the 
 ground. The last man .was badly wounded, but recovered. 
 The " great medicine" or mystery in this case, I shall not 
 attempt to explain, but let every one account for it in his 
 own way. 
 
 The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not 
 highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black 
 bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, 
 but lives more upon vegetable food, and is more in estima- 
 tion for its pure black, well-coated skin. 
 
 I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus, 
 and is the largest and the most important for food and 
 covering of any of the animals in our country. I need not 
 in this place go into so long description, as otherwise 
 would be important, having already spoken of them as I 
 was passing through their range of country. After having 
 seen thousands and ten thousands of them, and having had 
 months of time to examine their forms and habits, I do not 
 think they should be classed with the buffalo or bison of 
 the eastern continent. Not with the buffalo, if historians 
 have given a correct description of those on that continent. 
 The flesh of these is said to be " black, hard, and very un- 
 palatable; 'their hides impenetrable, making soft and 
 smooth leather ; their race is so fierce and formidable, that 
 there is no method of escaping their pursuit but by climb- 
 
210 ANIMALS. 
 
 ing up some immense tree ; for a moderate tree would be 
 broken down by them, and many travelers have instantly 
 been gored to death by them and trampled to pieces under 
 their feet." It is said " their voice is a hideous loud bel- 
 low." But none of these things are true of the buffalo of 
 our country. 
 
 If a true account has been given of the bison of the 
 eastern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several 
 material traits of character and habits. Those of the 
 eastern continent, are said to ha* T e "small heads, with 
 horns so wide spread, that three men can sit between them 
 —that their eyes are small, red and fiery — that they have 
 a hump upon their backs like a camel, and which is pre- 
 ferred to be eaten for its delicacy — that they are fierce and 
 vindictive, so that men have to fly to trees for safety — 
 that the bulls and cows live in separate bands." These 
 things do not correspond with the buffalo or bison of our 
 western prairies. 
 
 The buffalos or bisons of our country are generally 
 about as large as our domestic neat cattle, and the long, 
 shaggy, woolly hair which covers profusely their head, 
 neck, and shoulders, gives them an imposing appearance, 
 at a distance something like the lion. Probably there is 
 not any animal in the world, that presents an appearance 
 so formidable and terrific as the buffalo bull, when excited 
 and determined upon resistance. 
 
 Their color is a dark brown, when they are in the best 
 condition for robes, which is from November until Janu- 
 ary. As the season advances, their woolly fur increases 
 in length and assumes a pale color ; but after shedding 
 their coat, their fur is very short, and nearly black. In 
 many particulars they resemble our horned cattle; they are 
 cloven footed, chew the cud, and select the same, kind of 
 
ANIMALS. 211 
 
 food. Their flesh is in appearance and taste much like 
 beef, but of superior flavor, and remarkably easy of diges- 
 tion. Their heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little 
 more round and broad, and when running they carry 
 them rather low. Their horns, ears, and eyes, as seen 
 through their shaggy hair, appear small, and when cleared 
 from their covering, they are not large. Their legs and 
 feet are small and trim, fthe fore legs covered with the 
 long hair of the shoulders as low down as the knee. 
 Though their figure is clumsy in appearanee, ytt they run 
 swiftly and for a long time without greatly slackening 
 their speed ; and in ascending steep hills or mountains, 
 they more than equal the best horses. They unite in 
 herds, and when feeding scatter over a large space, but 
 when fleeing from danger, they collect into dense columns, 
 and having once laid their course, are not easily diverted 
 from it, whatever may oppose ; and indeed it cannot be 
 done with safety to themselves ; for should the foremost 
 halt, or turn directly from their course, the dense mass in 
 the rear rushing on would overthrow and destroy them. 
 They can change their direction only by taking a circuitous 
 course. Their spnse of smelling is very acute, and they 
 perceive the hunter, when he is on the windward side, at 
 a great distance, the alarm is taken, and when any of 
 them manifest fear, they are thrown into confusion until 
 some of the cows from the instinct of fear, take the lead 
 to flee from the pursuer, and then all follow at the top of 
 their speed. So far are they from being a fierce and 
 revengeful animal, that they are very shy and timid ; and 
 in no case did I see them offer to make an attack, except 
 in self defense when wounded and closely pursued, and 
 then they always sought the first opportunity to escape. 
 When they run, they lean alternately from one side to the 
 
212 ANIMALS. 
 
 other. The herds are composed promiscuously of bulls 
 and cows, except some of the old bulls, which are often 
 found by themselves in the rear or in advance of the main 
 bands. Sometimes an old blind one is seen alone and 
 separated from all others ; and it was amusing to see their 
 consternation when they apprehended the approach of 
 danger. The natural instincts of fear and prudence lead 
 them to fly alternately in every possible direction for 
 safety. I was pleased to find our most thoughtless young- 
 men respect their age and pity their calamity ; for in no 
 instance did I see any abuse offered them. They are fond 
 of rolling upon the ground like horses, which is not prac- 
 ticed by our domestic cattle. This is so much their diver- 
 sion, that large places are found without grass and consi- 
 derably excavated. The use of their skins for robes, and 
 the woolly fur, with which they are covered, are so univer- 
 sally known, that a description is entirely unnecessary. 
 Another peculiarity which belongs to them is, that they 
 never raise their voice above a low bellow; in no in- 
 stance were we disturbed by their lowing, even when sur- 
 rounded by thousands, and in one of our encampments, it 
 was supposed there were five thousand near. It has been 
 said they do not visit any of the districts formed of primi- 
 tive rocks. This is said without reason, for I saw them as 
 frequently in those districts, in proportion to their extent, 
 as where other formations existed. It is also said that as 
 they recede from the east they are extending west. This 
 is also incorrect ; for, as I have before said, their limits 
 are becoming more and more circumscribed. And if they 
 should continue to diminish for twenty years to come, as 
 they have during the last twenty, they will become almost 
 extinct. 
 
 It is unpleasant to contemplate the period, when this 
 
ANIMALS. 213 
 
 noble animal will be seen no more, and will be known 
 only in history and seen only upon canvass. Thousands 
 and hundreds of thousands are slain yearly, not for 
 food, but for robes, to gratify the luxury of civilized 
 men, as seen in almost every vehicle for business or plea- 
 sure. 
 
 
214 FISH. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology — dendrology 
 — shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleys — 
 plains — forests — rivers — soil — seasons. 
 
 I pass to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters 
 of the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety 
 is small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy rock cod, and 
 trout, are all that came under my particular observation. 
 Shad have not been found in these western waters. The 
 sturgeon of good quality and in large numbers, commence 
 ascending the rivers in the first part of April, and furnish 
 food to the suffering Indians. I say suffering, for before 
 the opening of the spring, their stock of provisions is con- 
 sumed, and they are seen searching for roots and any 
 thing which will sustain life ; and though I do not feel 
 authorized to say what others have said, that in the latter 
 part of the winter and beginning of spring, they die with 
 starvation in great numbers, yet they are brought to ex- 
 treme want, and look forward with great solicitude, to the 
 time when the sturgeon shall come into the river. A 
 small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long, very 
 fat and well flavored, come into the river in great num- 
 bers about the same time or a little before the sturgeon. 
 The Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them by 
 putting them into a netting strainer and exposing them to 
 gentle heat. 
 
 The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters 
 
pish. 215 
 
 about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year. 
 They are very fine and easily caught. 
 
 The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish 
 found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well 
 ascertained that there are not less than six different species 
 or varieties of the true salmon that ascend these waters, 
 commencing about the 20th of April. Their muscular 
 power is exceedingly great, which is manifested in pass- 
 ing the falls and rapids which would seem insuperable. 
 They are never known to return, but are constantly press- 
 ing their way upwards, so that it is not uncommon to find 
 them in the small branches of the rivers near the very 
 sources. We found them in September near the Rocky 
 Mountains, where they are said to be as late as November 
 and December. I saw some with parts of their heads 
 worn to the bone, and the skin worn from various parts of 
 their bodies, which appears to be the result of efforts to 
 ascend, until they perish. Late in the season great num- 
 bers are found dead, furnishing food for crows, vultures, 
 eagles, foxes, and wolves — and even Indians ; for I have 
 seen them drive away the crows, and appropriate the rem- 
 nants to themselves. When the salmon become much 
 emaciated, the flesh loses its rich redness, and it is seen in 
 the skin, which gives the fish a beautiful appearance ; but 
 when in this state it is hardly edible. It is worthy of 
 notice, that the salmon has its preferences of water, select- 
 ing some branches of the Columbia river and passing by 
 others ; and those taken in some of the tributary streams 
 are far better than those taken in others. While those 
 which ascend the river never return, the young are seen 
 in September descending on their way to the ocean, in 
 immense numbers. It is believed these return the fourth 
 year after their descent ; but this may be only conjecture. 
 It is difficult to estimate how many salmon might be taken 
 
216 FISHERY. 
 
 in these rivers, if proper measures were pursued ; and also 
 what would be the results upon the numbers which would 
 continue to enter and ascend. I think without doubt a 
 plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon 
 fishery in this river to good advantage and profit. The 
 experiment was made by a company from the United 
 States, which failed, for it contained the elements of its 
 own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities 
 of rum, probably calculating on the fact that the Indians 
 are fond of ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this 
 appetite, they should enlist them in their favor, and as In- 
 dians will do anything for rum, they would catch and sell 
 fish to them. Whatever the object of the company might 
 have been in sending and dealing out so much rum, the 
 Indians were highly pleased with receiving it in pay for 
 their salmon. But when they had thus obtained it they 
 would become intoxicated and disqualified for labor, and 
 more time was wasted in drunkenness, than employed in 
 fishing. Besides the salmon were suffered to lie in the hot 
 sun until they were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. 
 The result was, that the company, as I was informed, ob- 
 tained only about four hundred barrels of salmon, and 
 made a losing voyage ; and the superintendent at Fort 
 Vancouver told me, that when the company abandoned 
 their business, they stored many barrels of rum at his fort. 
 My information was not wholly derived from those who 
 had been in the employment of that company, and gentle- 
 men of the Hudson Bay Company, but in part from the 
 Indians, who often spoke to me upon the subject by way 
 of praise. They would say, " close, hias lum" signifying, 
 good, plenty of rum. 
 
 The birds of Oregon are not so numerous as those which 
 inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not 
 access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the 
 
ORNITHOLOGY. 217 
 
 woods and groves are more widely dispersed. But they 
 are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist pro- 
 fitably, for a great length of time in collecting and preser- 
 ving specimens. This region is particularly interesting 
 from the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural 
 science, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no com- 
 petent scientific person having visited this country to clas- 
 sify the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Town- 
 send, of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two 
 years in examining scientifically this field, and will 
 probably give to the public the result of his labors. I 
 am indebted to him for assistance in the following sum- 
 mary. 
 
 The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and 
 are seen only a part of the year. There are many, how- 
 ever that reside here during the whole year. Among these 
 are the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, 
 and three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the 
 magpie, Corvus pica, and thousands of ravens and crows ; 
 several species of small sparrows, and two or three species 
 of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and 
 the dusky grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an 
 interesting species of the dipper or water ousel. The 
 habits of this bird are very curious and peculiar, particu- 
 larly that of descending to the bottom of ponds and swiftly 
 running streams, and there, in search of small shell-fish, 
 remaining under water, for at least two minutes, during 
 which time it will course about upon the pebbly bottom, 
 with as much apparent ease and satisfaction, as if upon 
 dry land. The red winged black-bird and the robin con- 
 tinue through the year. The notes of the latter are heard 
 even in the chill of the winter, though in feeble strains. 
 
 As the autumn advances, the number of swans, geese, 
 and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these 
 10 
 
218 ORNITHOLOGY. 
 
 water fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the 
 Columbia river, and there are other species of the same 
 genus, seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not 
 ascend the rivers. Among these is the violet green cor- 
 morant, the most splendid of all the known species of cor- 
 morants. The loon, or great northern diver, is very plen- 
 tiful in this river. Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in 
 great numbers, visit this river to seek shelter from the 
 violent storms which agitate the ocean during the winter. 
 The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, 
 brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain 
 for different periods of time ; many of them continue only 
 a few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidifica- 
 tion. There are, however, great numbers that remain 
 through the summer, and their delightful songs add to the 
 charms of a fine morning of April and May. Among 
 these are hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nu- 
 thatches. Of the warblers there are eleven species, six 
 of which are new ; the other five are common to the 
 States. Several of the species are but transient visitors, 
 but most of them remain through the season. Of the 
 wrens there are six species; three of the titmice, and 
 two of the nuthatches. And in the train follow the 
 thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of which 
 are new ; of these Wilson's thrush is pre-eminent in 
 sweetness of song. The fly-catchers number eight'species, 
 three of which are new; and there are thirteen species of 
 the finches, three of which are new. These are a lar^e 
 and musical band, among which are several of the finest 
 songsters in the world. In no instance do we find more 
 richness and delicacy of plumage, with the most sweet 
 melody of voice, than in a new species of large bullfinch, 
 which visits this section of country in the spring. If these 
 were domesticated, they would form a most valuable addi- 
 
DENDROLOGY. 219 
 
 tion to any aviary. There are eight species of wood- 
 peckers, four of which are new; and of the swallow tribe 
 there are five species, one of which is new, and is the 
 most beautiful of the family, characterized by a splendid 
 changeable green plumage on the head and back, while 
 the other parts are purple and white. About the middle 
 of March the splendid little Nootka humming bird makes 
 his appearance, coming so suddenly, that you wonder from 
 whence he came, as the fact of his performing a long mi- 
 gration of weeks with his delicate little wings, over a cold 
 and flowerless country, or across the sea, seems incre- 
 dible; The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va- 
 riations of color; now it is ruby red, with a metallic, 
 lustre ; turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet 
 and crimson, according as the light falls upon it. 
 
 I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more 
 numerous species of the different birds of this region, as it 
 is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only 
 to give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed 
 of the ornithological treasures of this interesting country. 
 
 Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- 
 bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only 
 enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said 
 there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far 
 the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. 
 The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They 
 differ not only in the color of the wood, but also in their 
 foliage. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides 
 of the branchlets in the same form as those found in the 
 United States ; the yellow only on the upper side of the 
 upper half of the twigs; the white is oppositely pinnated. 
 The balsam is alike in the three different species, found in 
 blisters on the bark, in the same form as in other countries. 
 
 White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far 
 
220 DENDROLOGY. 
 
 west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few 
 pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor- 
 way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not be- 
 low the Cascades of the Columbia. The new species, 
 which I have called the elastic pine, is far the most 
 numerous, but I did not see any of these as far west as 
 Walla Walla. 
 
 The cedar is the common species, grows very large and 
 tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various me- 
 chanical uses. The yew is also found among the ever- 
 greens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in 
 small sections of the country. The white oak, of good 
 quality, and often large, is a common tree of the forest, 
 and also the black, rough barked oak grows in some of 
 the mountainous parts. In an excursion down the rich 
 prairies below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scat- 
 tered about like shade trees upon a well cultivated farm, 
 I measured a white oak, which was eight feet in diameter, 
 continued large about thirty feet high, and then branched 
 out immensely wide, under which Mr. T. and myself, with 
 our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of 
 rain. There are two kinds of ash, the common white ash 
 and the broad leafed. The latter is very hard. There is 
 also alder, which I have mentioned as growing very large, 
 and on dry ground as well as on that which is low and 
 swampy. 
 
 There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, 
 the cotton, and balm. The first is common in various 
 parts of the United States, and is well known ; the second 
 is commonly called cotton-wood, skirting rivers and 
 streams as in the western States j the third is the Populus 
 balsamifera, often called the Balm of Gilead. Its distin- 
 guishing properties are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam 
 in a glutinous state found in the small twigs, but mostly in 
 
SHRUBBERY. 221 
 
 the buds. This last species in some places spreads over 
 large sections of bottom land, where the soil is uncom- 
 monly good. White maple is found, but only in small 
 quantities. Willows of various species are common in all 
 parts of the country. * There is a tree in the lo^ er country 
 which grows much in the form of the laurel or bay tree, 
 but much larger — the bark is smooth and of a red bay 
 color ; its leaves are ovate. It has been called the straw- 
 berry tree, but I do not know with what propriety. There 
 are no walnut or hickory trees west of the great moun- 
 tains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard or sugar maple, 
 or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry, cucumber, 
 white-wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a species 
 of black birch which grows small ; nor are there any of 
 the species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I might 
 lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above ob- 
 servations are sufficient to give a general view of the forest 
 trees of the country. 
 
 The varieties of shrubbery and plants are so numerous, 
 that their examination would employ the botanist many 
 months. I shall only sketch a few of those which are 
 scattered over the prairies and through the forests. 
 Among these are several varieties of the thorn-bush, many 
 of which are large and fruitful. Those bearing the red 
 apple, present, when they are ripe, a very beautiful appear- 
 ance. There is one species peculiar to the country west 
 of the mountains, the fruit of which is black and of a de- 
 lightfully sweet taste, but not generally dispersed through 
 the country. It is principally native about the Blue 
 Mountains, the Walla Walla and Ummatilla rivers. The 
 choke cherry is common to all parts of the country, and its 
 fruit is very grateful where animal food is principally de- 
 pended upon for subsistence. The salalberry is a sweet 
 and pleasant fruit of a dark purple color, oblong, and 
 
222 PLANTS. 
 
 about the size of a grape. The serviceberry is about the 
 size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and plea- 
 santly sweet like the whortleberry ; and the pambina is a 
 bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are many 
 — the common prickly, which grows very large on a 
 thorny bush — the small white, which is smooth and very 
 sweet — the large, smooth purple, and the smooth yellow, 
 which are also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a 
 good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very 
 superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the 
 pale red, the yellow, which are well tasted, and the black. 
 Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so pro- 
 lific and. desirable as those which grow under the hand of 
 cultivation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria racemosa, 
 called the snowberry, and which is found in some of our 
 gardens, is a native of this country, and grows here in 
 'great abundance. 
 
 Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species 
 which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three 
 times as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yel- 
 low, but the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new 
 species of sweet elder which I have already described. 
 The climbing honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of 
 nature. 
 
 The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in 
 some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some 
 small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from 
 the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and 
 beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun- 
 tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla- 
 vor is more delicious than any I have tasted in other coun- 
 tries. 
 
 Sun-flowers, Helianthus, are common, but do not grow 
 large ; also a species of broom-corn, is found in many 
 
PLANTS. 223 
 
 places of the bottom-lands of the Columbia and other 
 streams. To these may be added a wild grain somewhat 
 resembling barley, or rye. Wild flax I have mentioned 
 and described on page 9]. 
 
 Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wap- 
 patoo and the cammas. The wappatoo, is the sagittaria, 
 or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the Co- 
 lumbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and be- 
 comes soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agree- 
 able food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of 
 trade. It grows in shallow lakes and in marshes which 
 are covered with water. The Indian women wade in 
 search of this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it 
 w T ith their feet when it rises to the surface of the water 
 and is secured. The cammas, a tunicated root, in the 
 form of an onion, is of great importance to the Indians 
 and grows in moist, rich ground. It is roasted, pounded 
 and made into loaves, and dried, and has a taste resem- 
 bling licorice. The cowish, or biscuit root, grows on dry 
 land, somewhat larger than a walnut, tastes like a sweet 
 potatoe, is prepared in the same manner for food as the 
 cammas, and is a tolerable substitute for bread. To these 
 may be added the ratine amere, or bitter root, which 
 grows on dry ground, is fusiform, and though not pleasant 
 to the taste, is very conducive to health ; also the common 
 onion, and another characterized by its beautiful red 
 flower, which often grows upon patches of volcanic sco- 
 ria, where no other vegetation is seen. 
 
 Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been 
 necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed 
 account of its geography may with propriety be given 
 here. In comparing the country west with that east of 
 the mountains, especially the great valley of the Missis- 
 
224 GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 sippi, we are impressed very powerfully with the strong 
 contrast which their distinguishing features present. The 
 valley of the Mississippi may be called the garden of the 
 world — every part abounding in rich soil inviting cultiva- 
 tion. We seldom see any barren or rocky wastes, any 
 far extended swamps or marshes — no frozen moun- 
 tains. Destitute of prominent land-marks to catch the eye 
 of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance before him 
 only the almost horizontal lines of level or rolling meadow. 
 No one points him to the peaks of dim mountains, and tells 
 him that the range divides two sister states, or separates two 
 noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting on the shoulders of 
 lofty Butes and blending their neutral tint with the hazy blue 
 of the landscape before him — nor Tetons rearing their 
 heads into the region of perpetual snow — and day after 
 day he pursues his journey without any thing to create in 
 his bosom emotions of the grand and the sublime, unless it 
 be the vastness of the expanse. 
 
 Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have 
 studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains 
 and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren 
 plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, 
 present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country 
 is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from 
 which a person cannot see some of the immense ranges 
 which intersect its different parts. On an elevation a 
 short distance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical 
 volcanic mountains, from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, 
 whose tops are covered with perpetual snow, may be seen 
 rising in the surrounding valley. There are three general 
 ranges, west of the rocky chain of mountains; running in 
 northern and southern directions. The first, above the 
 falls of the Columbia river; the second, at and below the 
 
VALLEYS PLAINS. 225 
 
 Cascades ; the third, towards and along the shores of the 
 Pacific. From each of these, branches extend in different 
 directions. Besides these there are others which are large 
 and high, such as the blue mountains south of Walla 
 Walla — the Salmon river mountains between the Salmon 
 and the Coos-coots-ke rivers ; and also in the regions o f 
 Okanagan and Colvile. 
 
 Between these mountains are wide spread valleys and 
 plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included 
 between Deer Island on the west, to within twelve miles 
 of the Cascades, and is about fifty -five miles wide, and ex- 
 tending north and south to a greater extent than I had the 
 means of definitely ascertaining; probably from Puget's 
 sound on the north, to the Umbiqua river on the south. 
 The Willamette river and a section of the Columbia are 
 included in this valley. The valley south of the Walla 
 Walla, called the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. 
 To these may be added Pierre's Hole and the adjacent 
 country ; also Racine Amere, east of the Salmon River 
 Mountains. On Mill river which unites with the Colum- 
 bia at Colvile, from the south, through a valley of more 
 than fifty miles, there are rich bottom lands. While these 
 are open and ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides 
 of the valley are covered with woods. Other fertile sec- 
 tions of considerable magnitude are dispersed over differ- 
 ent parts of the country. To these may be subjoined ex- 
 tensive plains, most of which are prairies well covered 
 with grass. The whole region of country west of Salmon 
 river mountains, the Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite 
 to the range of mountains which cross the Columbia at 
 the Falls, is a vast prairie covered with grass, and the soil 
 is generally good. Another large plain which is said to 
 be very barren, lies off to the south and south-west of 
 
 10* 
 
226 FORESTS RIVERS. 
 
 Lewis' or Snake river, including the Shoshones' country ; 
 and travelers who have passed through, have pronounced 
 the interior of America a great barren desert ; but this is 
 drawing a conclusion far too broad from premises so 
 limited. So far as I have had opportunity for observa- 
 tion, I should feel warranted in saying, that while some 
 parts of Oregon are barren, large portions are well adapted 
 to grazing ; and others, though less extensive, are adapted 
 to both tillage and grazing. 
 
 Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a 
 large proportion of the country west of the mountains is 
 destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have al- 
 ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls 
 of the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and 
 densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The 
 mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country 
 about the Spokein river, and so on still farther north, are 
 well furnished w T ith forests, and in some other sections 
 there are partial supplies. 
 
 The country in general is well watered, being inter- 
 sected with lakes, and by many large rivers and their tri- 
 butary streams. This might be inferred from the fact that 
 there are so many mountains, upon the sides and at the 
 bases of which are multitudes of the finest springs. No 
 country furnishes water more pure and of such crystal 
 clearness. As the spring and summer heat commences, 
 the snows of the mountains melt, and begin to swell the 
 rivers in the beginning of May, and the freshet continues 
 to increase until June, when it is the greatest, and over- 
 flows large sections of the low lands of the valleys, which 
 have the appearance of inland seas. While the rivers of 
 this country are numerous, and several of them are large, 
 yet inland navigation will be attended with difficulties, 
 
RIVERS. 227 
 
 not only from the many falls and rapids, but from the la- 
 bor and expense necessary to construct canals through 
 the immensely hard basaltic rock formation. The Colum- 
 bia has three large falls in the distance of seven hundred 
 miles ; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles from 
 the ocean, at the head of tide water; the Falls of the Co- 
 lumbia, forty miles above the Cascades; and the Kettle 
 Falls, five hundred and thirty miles above the Falls of the 
 Columbia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mile Ra- 
 pids, thirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most em- 
 barrassing. The other rivers are still more obstructed 
 with falls and rapids, except the Willamette, which has 
 only one fall at the head of its tide water, thirty miles 
 above its junction with the Columbia. The obstruction to 
 a canal around this, is far less than around the above 
 named falls ; and when constructed, the navigation may 
 be extended fifty miles farther into the country. While 
 such is the condition of this country in respect to its inter- 
 nal navigation and commerce, the ingenuity of man in our 
 clay, has provided something which can be most advan- 
 tageously applied as a remedy. I mean rail roads. In 
 making observations, with reference to this very subject, I 
 was interested to see the wisdom and benevolence of the 
 Creator, in providing passes through those stupendous 
 ranges of mountains, which generally run from north to 
 south, and I thought how easily the whole territory might 
 be traversed in this way ; and the large pentagonal basal- 
 tic columns are ready at hand to facilitate the work. No 
 country in the world furnishes better opportunities for wa- 
 ter power to be applied to manufacturing purposes; al- 
 most every river and stream having falls, cascades and 
 rapids. 
 
 The climate is far "more temperate and warm west of 
 
228 THE SEASONS. 
 
 the Rocky Mountains, than east in the same latitude, 
 there being at least ten degrees difference of latitude, 
 as may be seen by the subjoined meteorological table. 
 There were only three days in the whole winter of my re- 
 sidence in the country, that the thermometer sunk as low 
 as 22° Farenheit, at Fort Vancouver ; and there were 
 only two mornings in the whole month of March when 
 white frost was seen. Snow does not fall deep excepting 
 upon the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely continues 
 more than a few days, or at the farthest only a few weeks ; 
 and by the latter part of February or the first of March, 
 ploughing and sowing are commenced. And not only is 
 the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also generally 
 healthy, and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases, 
 except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as 
 has been stated, commenced in 1829 - y and the opthalmy, 
 which is very general among the Indians of the plains. It 
 is worthy of notice that thunder and lightning are seldom 
 witnessed west of the great mountains, but in the valley 
 of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and unusually 
 heavy. 
 
 The seasons are divided into two, the rainy in the win- 
 ter, commencing in November, and terminating in May; 
 the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute of rain ? 
 and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably se- 
 rene, while the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the 
 sun, and the season is most delightful. The entire desti- 
 tution of rain, showers, and dew, during summer does not 
 exclude fertility ; nor is it peculiar to this country, for the 
 same is true of the whole Pacific coast west of the Andes, 
 and also of the Sandwich and Society Islands — yet by va- 
 rious methods of irrigation, the soil is rendered productive. 
 In the country which I am describing, the winter being so 
 
THE SEASONS. 229 
 
 mild, the grain sown in the fall and spring advances be- 
 yond injury before the drouth becomes severe, and the grass 
 attains its growth and dries into hay upon the ground ; 
 and there being no moisture to decompose it, retains its 
 nutritive properties. 
 
 This territory is, notwithstanding, well supplied with 
 water ; for the benevolent wisdom of God has placed the 
 mountains, covered with perpetual snows, just where they 
 are needed, and where the heat of spring and summer so 
 far melts these vast reservoirs, as to fill the rivers and 
 streams, and the summer freshet continues for many 
 weeks, 
 
230 INDIANS OF THE PLAINS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Character and condition of the Indians — Indians of the plains — their 
 persons — dress — wealth — habits — physical character — manufactures 
 — their religion — wars — vices — moral disposition — superstitions — me- 
 dicine men. 
 
 As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain 
 the character and condition of the Indians beyond the 
 Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and the prospects of es- 
 tablishing the gospel among them, it will not only be 
 proper but important to give a full and connected descrip- 
 tion of them in these respects. In doing this, while I 
 have availed myself of information collected from men of 
 intelligence and integrity, I have confined my statements to 
 those things which have been corroborated by, or came 
 under my own observations ; feeling it a duty to avoid the 
 many fabulous accounts which have been given of In- 
 dian character and customs. Romance may please and 
 excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can 
 instruct. 
 
 I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These 
 live in the upper country, from the falls of the Columbia to 
 the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the 
 plains, because a large portion of their country is prairie 
 land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perces, Cayuses, 
 Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads, 
 Coeur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okana- 
 gans, and Carriers. These do not include probably more 
 than one half of those east of the Falls, but of others I 
 have obtained but little definite knowledge. They all re- 
 
COSTUME. 231 
 
 semble each other in general characteristics. In their 
 persons the men are tall, the women are of common sta- 
 ture, and both are well formed. While there is a strong 
 natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, 
 the complexion of these is a little fairer than other In- 
 dians. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek bones 
 high, and very frequently they have aquiline noses. Their 
 hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well formed ; and 
 their movements are easy, if not graceful. They wear their 
 hair long, part it upon their forehead, and let it hang in 
 tresses on each side, or down behind. 
 
 There is a great resemblance in the dress of different 
 tribes, which generally consists of a shirt, worn over long 
 leggins, or a sort of pantaloons, with moccasons for the 
 feet. These are of dressed leather made of the skins of 
 deer, antelope, mountain goat and sheep j and over these, 
 they wear a blanket or a buffalo robe. The borders of 
 their garments are ornamented with long fringes. They 
 are fond of ornaments, and their heads and garments are 
 sometimes decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and 
 porcupine quills ; these last are colored red, yellow, blue, 
 and black, and worked with great skill and variety of de- 
 sign. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn 
 themselves with painting, than the Indians east of the 
 mountains ; but not unfrequently vermilion, mixed with 
 red clay, is used not only upon their faces, but upon their 
 hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from 
 that of the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they 
 have what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles. 
 Many of them wear a large cape made of dressed skins, 
 often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, 
 red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering 
 the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when 
 clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with 
 
232 WEALTH. 
 
 their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, 
 and mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their 
 ornaments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appear- 
 ance that would not lose in comparison with equestrian 
 ladies of the States. Their horses are not less finely ca- 
 parisoned with blue and scarlet trimmings about their 
 heads, breasts, and loins, hung with little brass bells. 
 
 While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all 
 heathen, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible 
 than others, and are far more neat than those of the lower 
 country towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood 
 that there are not those among them who are poor, suf- 
 fering from the want of food and clothing. 
 
 Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse- 
 quence depends in a great degree upon the number they 
 possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family 
 is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man, 
 woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling 
 from place to place ; and also to carry all their effects. 
 In these respects they are far better supplied than any 
 tribes I saw east of the mountains. While their horses 
 are their wealth, they derive but little from them for the 
 support of themselves and families ; for they do not em- 
 ploy them to cultivate the earth ; and the market for them 
 is so low, that they command but a small price. A good 
 horse will not sell for more than enough to purchase a 
 blanket, or a few small articles of merchandize. For sub- 
 sistence, they necessarily depend upon hunting and fishing, 
 and gathering roots and berries. Their mode of cooking 
 is plain and simple.* Most of their food is roasted, and they 
 excel in roasting fish. The process is to build a small fire 
 in the centre of their lodge, to fix the fish upon a stick two 
 or three feet long, and place one end in the ground so as 
 to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then by a slow 
 
HABITS. . 233 
 
 process it is most thoroughly roasted without scorching, 
 or scarcely changing the color. The principal art con- 
 sists in taking time, and our best cooks might improve by 
 following their mode. 
 
 The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a 
 general remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to 
 confirm its truth among the Indians of the plains ; for I 
 rarely saw any of these Indians not engaged in some ob- 
 ject of pursuit ; not the most productive perhaps, but such 
 as elicited their attention. While I believe that the re- 
 semblance, both physical and moral, of all the different 
 nations and tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of 
 t he continent of America, is greater than is seen in any 
 people of any other country of equal extent; yet if it is 
 true, that as a general fact, as some authors have said, 
 * they are morose and gloomy in their countenances ; sul- 
 len, or bacchanalian in their dispositions ; that they are 
 rarely so joyful as to laugh unless excited by ardent spirits ; 
 that they are taciturn and never indulge in mirth; that 
 they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of social affec- 
 tions; that in proud disdain they turn away from what- 
 ever would excite curiosity ; that no common motives or 
 endearments excite them to action ;" if these things are 
 true, then the Indians of Oregon are an exception to the 
 general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw 
 no special difference between them and other nations. As 
 a part of the human family, they have the same natural 
 propensities and the same social affections. They are 
 cheerful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate ; 
 and anxious to receive instruction in whatever may con- 
 duce to their happiness here or hereafter. It is worse 
 than idle to speak of " physical insensibility inwrought 
 into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies 
 approximate to the insensibility of a horse's hoofs.' , The 
 
234 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 influence of remarks of this kind is to produce, in the bo- 
 soms of all who read them, the same insensibility that is 
 charged upon the native character of the Indians. To re- 
 present their characters and their restoration to the com- 
 mon feelings of humanity so hopeless, is to steel the heart 
 of even Christianity itself, if it were possible, against all 
 sympathy, and to paralyze all exertions and effort to save 
 them from the twofold destruction to which they doom 
 them, temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that Chris- 
 ians are sitting m such supineness over their condition, 
 and that the heart-thrilling appeals for teachers to en- 
 lighten them are disregarded ? Is this the reason, that 
 while the philanthrophy of the United States' citizens to- 
 wards them is so widely blazoned, those who are sent to 
 teach them the arts of civilized life, are sitting quietly on 
 the borders in governmental pay, while the Indians are 
 roaming still over the prairies in. search of uncertain and 
 precarious game ? I forbear to tell the whole story. 
 
 They have but few manufactures, and those are the 
 most plain and simple, not extending much beyond dress- 
 ing the skins of animals, and making them into clothing ; 
 making bows and arrow T s and some few articles of furni- 
 ture. In dressing skins they never make any use of bark 
 or tannin. Their process is to remove the hair and flesh 
 from the skins by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, 
 or when it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop ; and 
 then besmearing them with the brains of some animal, they 
 smoke them thoroughly and rub them until they are soft; 
 and after this bleach them with pure white clay. Their 
 mode of smoking them is to excavate a small place in the 
 ground, about a foot deep, and over this to construct a 
 fixture in the form of a lodge, a few feet wide at the base 
 and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a 
 small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon 
 
MANUFACTURES. 235 
 
 the frame work, so as to make the enclosure almost smoke 
 tight. The process occupies about one day. Their mode 
 of dressing buffalo robes is different. They stretch the 
 skin upon the ground, flesh side up, fastening it down with 
 pins around the border, and then with an instrument formed 
 something like a cooper's adz, made of stone, or wood 
 overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge 
 like the currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining 
 flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same 
 instrument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing 
 stroke, until they have bro.ught it to a suitable thickness 
 and rendered it soft and white, as our buffalo robes are when 
 brought into market. It is a work of great labor, and is 
 performed by the women. We little think how much toil 
 it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, and then 
 how little is paid for it by the purchaser ; a pound of to- 
 bacco or a bunch of beads, is as much as the Indian ge- 
 nerally receives. 
 
 Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength- 
 ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side, 
 and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar- 
 rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with 
 a sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with 
 a feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to go- 
 vern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform as- 
 tonishing execution, and they manage them with great 
 dexterity. 
 
 Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are 
 obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a 
 brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have 
 bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the 
 horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and 
 more solid, from the horns of the big mountain sheep. 
 They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo 
 
236 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. 
 Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish 
 saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on 
 the back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse's 
 back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the 
 hair or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened 
 in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends 
 are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is 
 used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals, 
 is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other 
 end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and 
 when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so 
 dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal's 
 head. When mounted, they often have a long leather 
 thong, or a rope, fastened upon the horse's neck, which 
 trails upon the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain 
 when the horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more 
 easily catching him again. 
 
 Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the 
 traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with 
 hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort. 
 A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or 
 two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article 
 which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in 
 every particular like our scoop nets. 
 
 As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already 
 stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of 
 the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But 
 while these are the prominent points of their belief, defi- 
 nite ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely 
 limited, both in number and in comprehensiveness. As 
 much as this, however, appears to be true. They believe 
 in one Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs 
 all important events, who is the author of all good, and 
 
RELIGION BELIEF. 237 
 
 the only object of religious homage. They believe he 
 may be displeased with them for their bad conduct, and in 
 his displeasure bring calamities upon them. They also 
 believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinim keneki 
 meohot cinmo cimo ; that is, the black chief below T , w T ho 
 is the author of all the evils which befall them, unde- 
 served as a punishment from the Great Spirit above. 
 They believe that the soul enters the future w 7 orld with 
 a similar form, and in circumstances like those under 
 which it existed in this life. They believe that in a future 
 state, the happiness of the good consists in an abundance 
 and enjoyment of those things which they value here ; that 
 their present sources of happiness will be carried to per^- 
 fection ; and that the punishment of the bad will consist 
 in entire exclusion from every source of happiness, and in 
 finding all causes of misery here, greatly multiplied here- 
 after. Thus, their ideas of future happiness and misery are. 
 found to vary according to their different situations and 
 employments in life. It is difficult, if not impossible, to 
 ascertain any thing of their religious belief beyond these 
 general notions. The number of words and terms in their 
 language expressive of abstract and spiritual ideas is very 
 small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these 
 subjects, are compelled to do it by means of illustrations 
 and circumlocutions, and the introduction of words from 
 foreign languages. Besides, conscious of their ignorance, 
 they are for the most part, unwilling to expose it, by re- 
 vealing the little knowledge w ? hich they possess. Indeed, 
 wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails, 
 we find that all endeavors to elicit the true amount of 
 knowledge, are repelled or evaded. Even men of talents, 
 w T ith us, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are of- 
 ten silent when religious subjects are introduced. V 
 
 I am far from believing the many long and strange tra- 
 
238 war. 
 
 ditions, with which we are often entertained. It is more 
 than probable, that they are in most instances the gratui- 
 tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunters 
 to that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to 
 subjects of this description. The Indians themselves 
 would often be as much surprised at the rehearsal of these 
 traditions, as those are for whose amusement they are fab- 
 ricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several 
 gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the 
 head of the Hudson Bay Company, who have long been 
 resident in the Indian country, and have become exten- 
 sively acquainted with their languages. 
 
 The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have 
 no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to 
 them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense, 
 and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are 
 with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the 
 east border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are con- 
 stantly roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest 
 of plunder. When the Indians on the west meet with any 
 of these parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if 
 compelled to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, uncon- 
 querable spirit, and rush upon their enemies with the 
 greatest impetuosity; and it is said that one Nez Perce, or 
 Flathead warrior, is a match for three Blackfeet. The 
 only advantage which the latter have over the former 
 consists in their numbers, there being more than twenty 
 thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. When an enemy is 
 discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the wo- 
 men take charge of them, while every man seizes his 
 weapons of war /whatever they may be, mounts his horse, 
 and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must 
 ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they rush forward 
 to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their 
 
WAR VICES. 239 
 
 horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, and reload, 
 and again rush full speed to the second encounter. This 
 is continued until victory is decided, which is as often by 
 the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. Very fre- 
 quently, when the Blackfeet see the white men with the 
 Nez Perces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though far 
 superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can fur- 
 nish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases they 
 will raise a white flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of 
 peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an oc- 
 casion, will say, " we accept your offer to smoke the pipe 
 of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war, 
 and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us 
 the pipe, but blood always follows." 
 
 But these Indians are not without their vices. Gam- 
 bling is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion 
 which they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much 
 practiced in running horses and foot races by men, women 
 and children, and they have games of chance played with 
 sticks or bones. "When I told the Nez Perces that gam- 
 bling is wrong, and a violation of the tenth command- 
 ment ; for it is coveting the property of another, and taking 
 it without an equivalent, as much as stealing ; they said 
 they did not know it before, but now they know God for- 
 bids it they will do so no more. Theft is generally sup- 
 posed to be inbred in the Indians, but I was pleased to dis- 
 cover that the tribes of the plains held it in abhorrence, 
 and would punish it severely should it occur. The Sho- 
 shones are said to be addicted to this habit in some de- 
 gree. 
 
 Drunkenness is a stranger vice among these nations, 
 their remove from the sources of this evil being their secu- 
 rity. It is not to be supposed that their virtue, any more 
 than that of other tribes, would be invulnerable if exposed 
 
240 GOOD MORALS. 
 
 to temptation, for this habit, like their proverbial love for 
 finery and ornament, is acquired by the facilities for indul- 
 gence which are thrown in their way. The trader goes 
 far into the interior with his packs of beads, buttons, paints, 
 &c. to exchange for furs, and teaches these ignorant peo- 
 ple to set the same value on his articles, that their furs are 
 intrinsically worth — but who supposes that they would not 
 know the comparative worth of more useful goods, if they 
 w T ere offered them ?* 
 
 The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend- 
 able, certainly as much as that of any people that can be 
 named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to 
 each other. While among them I saw no contentions, and 
 heard no angry words from one to another. They mani- 
 fest an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may 
 obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace 
 prevail in all their domestic concerns. But when they 
 have any difficult subject, which they know not how to 
 dispose of, they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any 
 important principle, the chief brings the case to any white 
 man, who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, 
 which is generally followed. They are scrupulously 
 honest in all their dealings, and lying is scarcely known. 
 They say they fear to sin against the Great Spirit, and 
 therefore have but one heart, and their tongue is straight 
 and not forked. And so correctly does the law written 
 upon their hearts accord with the written law of God, that 
 every infraction of the seventh command of the decalogue 
 is punished with severity. 
 
 * An attempt was made not long since, by an United States citizen, 
 to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of suitable 
 materials he failed in his object. 
 
SUPERSTITIONS. 241 
 
 Captain Wyeth, who was a long time beyond the 
 mountains, remarked, speaking of the Flathead In- 
 dians, which would be equally true of others in that 
 region of country : " During the time I have been 
 with them, the last thing, even to a bead or pin, is 
 brought to you, if found ; and often things that have 
 been thrown away. Neither have I known any quar- 
 relling, or lying. This absence of all quarrelling the 
 more surprised me, when I came to see the various 
 occasions that would have given rise to it among the 
 whites. * * # They have a mild, playful, laughing, 
 disposition, and this is portrayed in their countenances. 
 They are polite and unobtrusive. When one speaks, 
 the others pay strict attention. Even the children 
 are more peaceable than other children. I never 
 heard any angry word from them, nor any quarrel- 
 ling, although there were, at least, five hundred of 
 them together, and continually at play. With all this 
 quietness of spirit, they are brave when put to the 
 test. 
 
 I have witnessed but few things among them indi- 
 cative of superstition. The practice of the Shoshones 
 of cutting themselves, for the dead, I have already 
 mentioned. The Carriers burn their dead. When a 
 person dies, all the relations must be assembled, which 
 often occupies many days ; and if a husband is de- 
 ceased, the wife must lay her head upon the bosom of 
 her husband every night, to show her affection for 
 him ; and when the funeral pile is constructed, the 
 corpse laid upon it, and the fire enkindled, during the 
 burning of the body, she must frequently put her 
 hands through the flame and lay them upon his bo- 
 som, to show her continued affection. Their first 
 chief lost his wife. He was asked if he would show 
 11 
 
242 MEDICINE MEN. 
 
 the affection for her, which was required of others. 
 He thought on account of his chieftainship he might 
 be excused. The people were urgent, and he con- 
 sented, and so great was the pain which he en- 
 dured, that he was willing the practice should be 
 ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon be abolished. 
 
 They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for 
 the white man's Friday, or seeing the new moon over 
 the left shoulder, they have a portentous howling of a 
 large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they 
 hear this when travelling, sadness is at once visible in 
 their countenances, for it is considered as foreboding 
 some calamity near. 
 
 Among their superstitions may be classed their 
 mode of curing diseases. They have what are called 
 medicine* men, who make no pretensions to any 
 knowledge of diseases or skill in medicine ; but they 
 have a bag in which are deposited various relics. 
 The patient is stretched upon the ground ; a number 
 of persons encircle him and sing the medicine song. 
 The medicine man enters the circle and commences 
 his magical incantations by holding the medicine bag 
 over him, which is to operate as a charm ; he uses 
 many gestures, grimaces, and inarticulate sounds ; 
 pats or kneads the patient with his hands, beginning 
 very softly, and gradually increasing to a consider- 
 able degree of severity j blows into his ears, and prac- 
 tices other like ceremonies. By this process the pa- 
 tient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free 
 perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. 
 When the friction has been sufficiently employed, the 
 
 *Their worJ which we render medicine, as used by Indiaus, signifies 
 any thiug mysterious. 
 
MEDICINE MEN. 243 
 
 imagination well wrought upon, and the medicine bag 
 has invisibly imparted its virtues, the medicine man 
 presents some trifling article, such as a small bone, a 
 stick, a pebble, and says he has taken it from the body 
 of the patient, and that it was the cause of the disease ; 
 or he gives a heavy puff upward, and says the disease 
 has come out of the patient and gone upward, and 
 then asks him if he does not feel better. The patient 
 says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being relieved 
 from the process. And often the relief is permanent ; 
 for the friction may have been beneficial, and the 
 imagination often performs wonders. The medicine 
 man stands responsible for the life of his patient, and 
 if the patient dies, not unfrequently his own life is 
 taken by some of the relatives of the deceased. He 
 makes a heavy charge for his services, often a horse, 
 and why should he not ? for who in such cases would 
 endanger his life without being well paid ? In some 
 parts of the country, but more especially in the lower 
 country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it 
 would be supposed this would deter others from enter- 
 ing into the profession. But the love of fame and 
 wealth is powerful among heathen as well as among 
 civilized communities. Undoubtedly the medicine 
 men, when they begin their profession, know that 
 they are practicing deception, but by habitual deceit, 
 by the confidence others place in their skill, and by 
 the effects produced through the medium of the ima- 
 gination, they finally believe in the efficacy of their 
 own enchantments, and that they are consequential 
 men. 
 
 I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe east or 
 west of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have 
 had an opportunity of ascertaining, have but few dis- 
 
244 STEAM BATH. 
 
 eases, and for the cure of these they use but little 
 medicine ; nor do they profess to have any knowledge 
 of remedies beyond a few specifics. 
 
 The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy 
 persons in the following manner. They construct a 
 steam bath in the form of an oblong oven, two or three 
 feet high, about six feet long, made of willow branches, 
 each end inserted into the ground, forming an arch, 
 which is covered with grass and mud, or more 
 generally with skins. In this they place a number of 
 hot stones, upon which they pour water. The person 
 who is to go through the process, enters and is en- 
 closed nearly air tight, and remains until a very 
 profuse perspiration is produced, and often until nearly 
 suffocated. He then comes out and plunges at once 
 into cold water, and no regard is paid to the season 
 of the year, whether summer or winter. 
 
 They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining 
 an education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sci- 
 ences. In things with which they are conversant, 
 such as appertain to hunting, war, and their limited 
 domestic concerns, they manifest observation, skill, 
 and intellect ; but beyond these their knowledge is 
 very limited. They necessarily compute by numbers, 
 but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is an inter- 
 esting fact, that of four different languages, which I 
 examined, the mode of counting is by tens. 
 
 The Klicatat nation count with different words up 
 to ten, Lah's, one ; neep't, two ; and so to ten ; then 
 they add wappena to lah's ; as lah's wappena, eleven ; 
 neep't wappena, twelve ; neep't tit, twenty ; and in like 
 manner to one hundred, and so on to a thousand by 
 hundreds. In the Nez Perce language, nox is one, la- 
 peet, two, metait, three, &c. After ten they repeat 
 
music. 245 
 
 the radical numbers, with the addition, tit, as noxtit, 
 eleven ; laaptit, twenty ; metaptit, thirty. This may 
 be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the 
 other two proceed in the same manner. 
 
 They count their years by snows ; as maika elaix, 
 snows six, that is, six years ; and months by moons, 
 and days by sleeps ; pinemeek pe-e~lep, sleeps four, 
 (four days.) It is not common that they know their 
 exact age ; nor are they very accurate in chronology. 
 
 They are very fond of singing, and generally have 
 flexible and sweet-toned voices ; and on notes below 
 the octave, they make the most full and smooth sound 
 I have ever heard by the human voice. Most of their 
 singing is without words, excepting upon some special 
 occasions. .They use hi, ah, in constant repetition, as 
 we use fa, sol, la ; and instead of several different 
 parts harmonizing, they only take eights, one above 
 another, never exceeding three. They are conscious 
 of the inferiority of their tunes to ours, and wished to 
 be instructed in this department of knowledge. In 
 this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to hear 
 even the most simple strains of melody and harmony. 
 
246 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 The Indians of the Lower Country. 
 
 The Indians of the lower country are those I in- 
 clude between the shores of the Pacific and the Falls 
 of the Columbia river, and from Puget's Sound to Up- 
 per California. The principal nations are the Che- 
 nooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs, and the Umba- 
 quas. These nations are divided into a great number 
 of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, yet each 
 nation has its principal chief, who is head over all the 
 several tribes, and has a general superintending con- 
 trol. These Indians are in their persons rather below 
 the stature of those of the plains, or upper country, 
 and not generally so well formed. The women are 
 uncouth, and, from a combination of causes, appear old 
 at an early age. Among these causes, the habit of 
 painting, in which they indulge, destroys the smooth 
 and healthy appearance of the skin. 
 
 These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both 
 physical and moral, than those of the upper country. 
 Their dependence for subsistence being mostly con- 
 fined to fishing and fowling, they are not so well sup- 
 plied with clothing as the upper Indians, who hunt the 
 buffalo, the elk, the antelope, and other game. The 
 lower Indians obtain some game and clothing from the 
 posts of the Hudson Bay Company. I have often seen 
 them going about, half naked, when the thermometer 
 ranged between thirty and forty degrees, and their 
 children barefooted and barelegged in the snow ; and 
 
INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 247 
 
 yet, when exposed to fatigue, they cannot endure the 
 intensity of the season as well as civilized people. I 
 have noticed this, when I have had them employed in 
 conveying me any considerable distance in a canoe. 
 Their taste and smelling are obtuse, rendered so by 
 their filthy habits and contaminated food. But they are 
 quick to catch correctly a distant sound, and remarka- 
 bly keen-sighted, acquired by their habits of closely 
 and carefully watching for game. These nations, from 
 their mode of subsistence, being more stationary than 
 those of the plains, have more durable and comforta- 
 ble habitations, which are built of split plank, after the 
 manner of Wanaxka's, near the falls of the Willamette, 
 which I have described. Some of them indulge the 
 fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the 
 mouth being the place of entrance. 
 
 The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as 
 good taste as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, 
 and are made of inferior materials ; such as deer skins. 
 with the hair on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. 
 I saw many women of the poorer class, dressed in a 
 short petticoat or skirt, made of cedar bark, or a spe- 
 cies of strong grass twisted into strands, one end of 
 which is secured in a girdle or band around the waist, 
 while the other is suspended, knotted and fringed. 
 These are a substitute for cloth, which they are too 
 poor to obtain. The'nations near the ocean, who have 
 intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, 
 are as degraded as those on our frontiers, and from 
 the same causes. By their communication with those 
 who furnish them with the means of intoxication, and 
 who have introduced kindred vices, they have become 
 indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more 
 debased than the beasts of the earth. How perfectly 
 
24B INDIANS OP THE LOWER COUNTRY. 
 
 neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industrious 
 the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage 
 of the bird ; how well adapted to repose are their 
 habitations ; in a word, how different are all their ha- 
 bits, from those of fallen, polluted man. It is not the 
 want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin which 
 has thus degraded him, and nothing but Christianity 
 can bring him back to God, and the comforts and de- 
 cencies of life. 
 
 The want- of moral instruction, the influence of 
 bad examples, and unrestrained licentiousness have 
 brought the lower Indians into a state of wretchedness, 
 which will be entailed upon future generations, and 
 which nothing but the healing power of the gospel can 
 ever eradicate. There are some exceptions but not 
 enough to save these remnants of once populous na- 
 tions, if benevolence and humanity do not soon break 
 their slumbers. It is to be hoped the missionaries now 
 in the field, by the blessing of God, will interpose a 
 barrier to these sweeping desolations. 
 
 In their religious belief, they do not materially differ 
 from the upper Indians. While they believe in one 
 Great Spirit, they in addition believe in subordinate 
 spirits, or invisible agencies, to whom they ascribe 
 much the same power as has been ascribed to witch- 
 craft. We had a specimen of this when the May 
 Dacre was passing down the river in October. On 
 the north side of the Columbia, near the confluence 
 of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in the 
 basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned 
 Capt. L. not to approach those dark places ; for they 
 were the residence of bad spirits, who would destroy 
 the ship and all on board. Capt. L. purposely passed 
 near the place ; and the Indian was astonished that 
 
INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 249 
 
 we escaped unhurt, and concluded there must have 
 been some great " medicine " in the ship which de- 
 fended us. They believe in the immortality of the 
 soul, and that in the future state we shall have the 
 same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this 
 belief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of the 
 Chenook village near Cape Disappointment, on losing 
 a daughter in the year 1829, killed two female slaves 
 to attend her to the world of spirits, and for the par- 
 ticular purpose of rowing her canoe to the far off 
 happy regions of the south, where they locate their 
 imaginary elysium. She deposited her daughter, with 
 the two slain females by her side in a canoe, with arti- 
 cles of clothing and domestic implements. She was the 
 daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished 
 talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, 
 and had more than once saved them from death. 
 How dark was the mind of this talented woman, and 
 how differently would she have conducted under the 
 influence of divine revelation ! These Indians never 
 mention the name of their relatives after they are 
 dead. 
 
 It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Terri- 
 tory, and along the coast, that slavery exists. It was 
 formerly practiced in the upper country, but was long 
 since abolished. The Walla Walla tribe are de- 
 scended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by 
 the Nez Perce Indians. They permitted, as I have 
 stated above, their slaves to reside and to intermarry 
 in their families, and reasoning on the principles of na- 
 tural justice, they concluded that it was not right to 
 hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated 
 them, and they are now a respectable tribe. 
 
 Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, 
 IV 
 
250 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY, 
 
 and carried to perfection. After they have lost every 
 thing they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; 
 first a hand, and if unsuccessful, the other ; after this 
 an arm, and in the same manner, piece by piece, until 
 all is lost except the head, and at last their head ; and 
 if they lose this, they go into perpetual slavery. If 
 civilized men wilt gamble, it is desirable they should 
 carry gaming to the same perfection, for then they 
 would cease to be pests in society ; and however differ- 
 ent may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, 
 in this we should generally be agreed, that such slaves 
 would not deserve much commiseration. The Indians 
 however] do not set their souls at the hazard of the 
 game, as civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate 
 the eternal vengeance of God upon themselves, if they 
 are not successful. The Indian gambles away his in- 
 alienable rights for time only. 
 
 It is an universal practice to indulge in smoking, but 
 they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little 
 tobacco, and with it they mix freely a plant which 
 renders the fume less offensive. It is a social luxury, 
 and for its enjoyment they form a circle, using only 
 one pipe. The principal chief begins by drawing 
 three whiffs, the first of which he sends upward, and 
 then passes the pipe to the next person in dignity, and 
 in like manner it passes arOund until it comes to the 
 first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last 
 of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in 
 circling ascent, like a double-flued chimney. While 
 thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or 
 some exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle- 
 field, is related ; and the whole is conducted with gra^ 
 vity. Their pipes are variously constructed, and of 
 different materials. Some of them are wrought with 
 
INDIANS OF "THE LOWER COUNTRY. 251 
 
 much labor and ingenuity of an argillaceous stone, of 
 very fine texture, of a blue black color, found at the 
 north of Queen Charlotte's Island. It is the same 
 kind of stone, 'except in color, as that found upon the 
 head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. 
 These stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are 
 soft and easily worked with a knife, but on being ex- 
 posed to the air, become hard, and are susceptible of 
 a very good polish. 
 
 The Indians in the lower country are more indolent 
 than in the upper ; and the common motives for indus- 
 try operate reversely from those in civilized communi- 
 ties. The more they can get for their labor, the less 
 they will do ; the more they can get for an article in 
 sale, the less they will bring into market. Their wants 
 are but few, and when these are supplied, they will do 
 no more. They .have no disposition to hoard up trea- 
 sures, nor any enlarged plans to execute, requiring ex- 
 pense and labor. If they have any particular present 
 want to supply, they will do what is sufficient to sa- 
 tisfy it, and make no further effort until urged by a re- 
 turning necessity. To make them industrious and 
 provident, you must induce them to set a higher esti- 
 mate upon the comforts of life, and show them that 
 they are attainable, and that there is an increase of 
 happiness growing out of industry ; and all this must 
 be learned by experience, for abstract reasoning and 
 theories are of no avail. An Indian may be taken 
 abroad and instructed, and convinced of the advanta- 
 ges of civilization, but if sent back to his country alone, 
 he will become discouraged, and return to his former 
 habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and arti- 
 sans, must go among them, and make it the business 
 of their lives to do them good, and identify their own 
 
252 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRl*. 
 
 interests with theirs. Charging them with indolence, 
 and insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them 
 wiser or better. He is the true philanthropist, who, 
 instead of passing by on the other side*, goes to them, 
 and does all in his s power to raise them from their de- 
 gradation, and bring them to God and to heaven. 
 
 The Indians of the lower country, although less 
 anxious to be instructed in the things of religion, than 
 those of the upper country, express a readiness to re- 
 ceive instructors. I have not found among them, nor 
 any Indians beyond the influence of frontier settle- 
 ments, any thing like what has been stated to have ta- 
 ken place in other sections of our country : that they 
 will listen to statements made by missionaries, and 
 give their assent to what is said as very good ; and 
 then state their own theories of religion, expecting the 
 same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen 
 any disposition manifested, to say that the Christian 
 religion is good for white men, but as red men differ, 
 they need a different religion and mode of life. They 
 have not yet been instigated by infidels to say such 
 things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God 
 and salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. 
 While an indifference and apathy characterize some, 
 which is discouraging, yet I know of no insuperable 
 obstacles to their improvement. 
 
 "While gratitude is a general characteristic of In- 
 dians, they have, in some cases, their peculiar way of 
 expressing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long 
 time under a lingering and dangerous complaint. 
 Their medicine men had done all they could for him, 
 but without success. The father brought his son to 
 the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired 
 to have him treated with care and with the best med> 
 
INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 253 
 
 cal attendance. The sick son was received, and in 
 about six months was restored to health. When his 
 father came to take him home, he remarked to Dr. 
 McL. " My son is a good boy, he has been with you 
 a long time, and I think you must love him ; and now 
 as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a 
 blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as 
 you think will be good ? We shall always love you." 
 The lower Indians " make their medicine," in some 
 particulars, differently from those farther east. Their 
 professed objects are to obtain present relief, if not a 
 radical cure ; to make his exit more easy if the patient 
 dies, and that his soul may be rendered capable of 
 performing its journey to its far distant and happy 
 country, and also to assuage the sorrow of surviving 
 relatives. The process is simple, and occupies five or 
 six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and 
 blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and surrounded 
 by a frame work. Two " medicine men " place them- 
 selves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low, 
 long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, 
 three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the 
 frame, keeping time with their tune. They gradually 
 increase the loudness and the movement of their me- 
 dicine song, with a correspondent use of their wand, 
 until the noise becomes almost deafening, and undoubt- 
 edly often hurries the patient out of the world. Du- 
 ring this time the near relations affect indifference to 
 the condition of the sick person, lest their anxiety 
 should counteract the influence of the charm, and they 
 are generally employed about their common business, 
 the women in making mats, baskets and moccasons ; 
 and the men loitering about, smoking, or conversing 
 upon common subjects. In some cases, especially if 
 
254 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 
 
 their confidence in the medicine man is small, they 
 manifest much affliction and concern ; and in all cases 
 after the person dies, they make great lamentation. 
 
 I have already mentioned the practice of the lower 
 nations of flattening their heads and piercing their 
 noses. But another reported custom, of having pieces 
 of sea-horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood, an inch 
 and a half long and an inch wide, inserted into a 
 hole in the upper lip, made for the purpose, is not cor- 
 rect in regard to any of the Indians in this section of 
 country. Captain Beechy mentions it as a common 
 practice from Norton's Island and northward ; which 
 was noticed by Deshnow, as long ago as 1648, that 
 this ornament was worn by men and women about 
 Prince William's sound, and which custom, Captain 
 B. says is common the whole distance along the wes- 
 tern shores of America, as far as California. I saw 
 some specimen of this ornament, or rather deformity, 
 which were worn by the natives at Millbank Sound. 
 
 The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the 
 number of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every In- 
 dian of any distinction takes as many wives as he is 
 able to support, and his wealth is supposed to accord 
 with the number. They are quite destitute of horses, 
 and their almost only mode of travelling is in canoes ; 
 for the forests are so dense that they are nearly im- 
 penetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As 
 the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these ex- 
 cel in the management of canoes, which are uncom- 
 monly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to 
 thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a 
 good bateau, and are generally made of the fir tree. 
 The bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and 
 ward off* the boisterous waves, and the bow is some- 
 
INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 255 
 
 times decorated with figures of animals, and the upper 
 edge of the canoe is ornamented with shells. Slaves 
 are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclu- 
 sively ; for often the chiefs will perform their part of 
 the labor, and the women are equally expert with the 
 men. 
 
 Their manufactures do not widely differ from those 
 of the upper country, with the addition of hats and 
 baskets of skilful workmanship, made of grass of supe- 
 rior quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats 
 are a flaring cone. Their baskets are worked so 
 closely as to hold water, and are often used for pails. 
 Some of them are interwoven with various colors 
 and devices, fancifully representing men, horses, and 
 flowers. 
 
 The government of the Indian nations is in the hands 
 of chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by 
 some special merit. Their only power is influence ; 
 and this in proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, 
 and courage. They do not exercise authority by com- 
 mand, but influence by persuasion, stating what in 
 their judgment they believe to be right, and for the 
 greatest good of their tribe or nation, or of any family 
 or community. The chiefs have no power of levying 
 taxes, and they are so much in the habit of contributing 
 their own property for individual or public good, that 
 they are not generally wealthy. Their influence, how- 
 ever, is great ; for they rarely express an opinion or 
 desire, which is not readily assented to and followed. 
 Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common 
 voice of the people. Probably there is no government 
 upon earth where there is so much personal and politi- 
 cal freedom, and at the same time so little anarchy ; 
 and I can unhesitatingly say, that I have nowhere wit- 
 
256 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 
 
 nessed so much subordination, peace, friendship, and 
 confidence, as exist among the Indians in the Oregon 
 Territory. The day may be rued, when their order 
 and harmony shall be interrupted by any instrumen- 
 tality whatever. 
 
 There are exceptions, however, to the general fact 
 of the good conduct of the chiefs, and the respect 
 which is given them. Cazenove, the first chief of the 
 Chenook nation, is one. He was a great warrior, and 
 before the desolating sickness, which commenced in 
 the year 1829, could bring a thousand warriors into 
 action. He is a man of talents, and his personal ap- 
 pearance is noble, and ought to represent a nature kind 
 and generous ; but such is his character, that his influ- 
 ence is retained among his people more by fear than 
 by affection. I saw him often, and several times at my 
 room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, Feb- 
 ruary 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the 
 heir to his chieftainship, a young man who had lingered 
 under a protracted disease. Cazenove departed from 
 the long established custom of his nation and fathers, 
 of depositing the dead in canoes, and had him buried 
 in the cemetery of the Fort, in the decent manner of 
 civilized people. He had the coffin made large, for 
 the purpose of putting into it clothing, blankets, and 
 such other articles as he supposed necessary for the 
 comfort of his son in the world to which he was gone. 
 Every thing connected with the ceremony of the in- 
 terment was conducted with great propriety. I was 
 not at the time furnished with an interpreter, but ad- 
 dressed those present who understood English. Caze- 
 nove expressed his satisfaction that an address was 
 given, considering it a token of respect for his son ; 
 and appeared solemn in his affliction, indulging tears 
 
INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY* 257 
 
 only, and not any loud lamentations. Had he con- 
 ducted with equal propriety subsequently, he would 
 have been worthy of commendation. But when he 
 returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to 
 kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the 
 daughter of Concomly, and formerly the wife of Mr. 
 McDougall. The chiefs say, that they and their sons 
 are too great to die of themselves, and although they 
 may be sick, and decline, and die, as others do, yet 
 some person, or some evil spirit, instigated by some 
 one, is the invisible cause of their death ; and, there- 
 fore, when a chief or chief's son dies, the supposed 
 author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on this 
 occasion, fixed on the mother of his son as the victim 
 of his rage, notwithstanding she had been most assidu- 
 ous in her attention to him, during his protracted sick- 
 ness. Of his several wives she was the most beloved, 
 and his misguided mind led him to believe that the 
 greater the sacrifice, the greater the manifestation of 
 his attachment to his son, and the more propitiatory to 
 his departed spirit. She fled into the woods, and the 
 next morning, when the gates were opened, came into 
 this fort, and implored protection. She was secreted 
 here several days, until her friends at Chenook Bay 
 heard of her situation, and came and secretly took her 
 away. Some days after this, a woman was found 
 killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed 
 to have been done by Cazenove or some one in his 
 employ. 
 
258 CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN, 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Conversation with an intelligent Indian — meeting with Indians — earl y 
 and mild seasons — La Dalles Indians — their anxiety to recei% T e the 
 gospel — Nootka humming bird — number and location of the Indians 
 in the lower country — Indians of the north — the agitated question — 
 solitariness. 
 
 A very intelligent and influential Indian from the 
 Cascades called at my room, on the 8th of February, 
 to enquire about God. I endeavored to obtain from 
 him his own system of religion. He said he believed 
 there is a God, and he supposed he made all things, but 
 he did not know any thing more about him. I ques- 
 tioned him in regard to his belief of a future state, and 
 what he expected would become of him when he died. 
 He said he did not know. He supposed that he should 
 have an existence after death, but did not know what 
 it would be ; and wished me to tell him. I endeavored 
 to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him the great 
 fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the way 
 to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared 
 sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; 
 that they did not kill each other in wars as in times past ; 
 that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told 
 him that was good, but to be saved they must repent 
 and receive the Savior by faith, as the only hope for 
 sinners. So benighted are the minds of these heathen, 
 and so barren their language upon spiritual and invi- 
 sible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations as 
 I judged best adapted to convey truth to his mind, 
 and I doubt not he received some knowledge. 
 

 LA DALLES INDIANS. 259 
 
 The next day he called again, and wished me to 
 take his children and teach them how to read and 
 write, and to worship God. I endeavored to explain 
 to him the object of my tour, and that when I returned, 
 I would use my influence to have others come and live 
 among them. But he wanted me to continue with 
 them and instruct them. And when I told him - 1 must 
 go, and endeavor to get several to come and teach in 
 different tribes, he wished to know how many sleeps it 
 would take me to go, and how many sleeps before others 
 would come. I told him it would be a great number. 
 He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered 
 in the affirmative, and told him it would be at least 
 two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His 
 very look affected me ; he arose and went out. 
 
 Sabbath 14th. I attended service as usual in En- 
 glish. There were many Indians from the La Dalles 
 who wished to know if they might be present. We 
 told them there would not be sufficient room in the 
 hall, but a few of their chiefs might attend, and after 
 the English service I would meet with them ; which I 
 accordingly did in the afternoon. 
 
 They were punctual at the hour, and came in single 
 file, the first chief leading the way. When I prayed 
 with them, they all kneeled down except two or three, 
 and these were reprimanded by the chief for impro- 
 priety of conduct. As on other similar occasions, I 
 endeavored to instruct them in the first principles of 
 our revealed religion, to which they gave strict atten- 
 tion. The first chief, at the close of the service, wished 
 to speak ; and on receiving permission, spoke a short 
 time to his people, and then told me he had prayed 
 much to the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no 
 better, but worse. He said, a white man gave them 
 
260 EARLY SPRING. 
 
 a flag, and told them to set it up on a pole, on Sun- 
 days, and meet and pray, sing their songs, and dance 
 around the pole bearing the flag ; and they had done 
 so a long time. He wished to know if this was right.* 
 I told him it was right to meet and pray, and sing, and 
 talk about God, but to dance on the Sabbath was very 
 wrong,- and would offend God. I added farther, that 
 they needed some person to teach them the right way 
 to worship God and to be saved. He was affected, 
 and kneeled down, and with tears in his eyes said, if 
 you must go away, do send us some one to teach us 
 the right way to serve God. We will now throw 
 away what the man said to us about dancing. We 
 will go to our people and tell them what you have 
 said, and worship God as you have taught us. I never 
 felt so much like weeping over the heathen, as on this 
 occasion ; to see this poor benighted Indian chief upon 
 his knees, with tears in his eyes, pleading for some one 
 to come and teach them the way to heaven. What a 
 spectacle ! 
 
 March 1st. We have many indications of the pre- 
 sence of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the 
 soft temperature of the season west of the mountains, 
 render it one of the most delightful portions of our 
 continent. The wide and sudden extremes of heat 
 and cold, to which the eastern portions are subject, are 
 almost unknown here, and while this is more agreeable, 
 it is also more favorable to health. Those who have 
 the charge of the farming establishment at this place, 
 
 * The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the 
 holy Sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing, 
 would not interest the Indians ; and to include it, would not be so great 
 a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion to wor 
 ship. 
 
MtLD CLIMATE. 261 
 
 have commenced sowing thus early their spring crops, 
 and the gardener is preparing his ground for the seeds. 
 The grass in the yard begins to assume its beautiful, 
 fresh green. The robin and blackbird have continued 
 here through the winter, and now, with some others of 
 their feathered brethren, resume their cheerful war- 
 blings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the 
 thermometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit, and 
 to this point only three days. At this date, it stood at 
 sunrise, at 37° ; at noon, 46° ; and at sunset, at 44°. 
 The rains through the winter have been less constant 
 and heavy than I anticipated ; and snow has fallen 
 only ten days, sometimes in trifling quantities, and at 
 no time over the depth of six inches, and has remained 
 on the ground only a few days. Some have supposed, 
 that the genial climate of the Oregon Territory is attri- 
 butable to the proximity of the great Pacific, shedding 
 the influence of its soft winds far into the interior. 
 But the fact is, that almost the only winds through the 
 winter are easterly winds, consequently coming di- 
 rectly from the regions of perpetual snow. 
 
 A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, 
 who reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs 
 stated to my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their 
 mode of worship ; that they do not now dance on the 
 Sabbath, as they used to do, but they meet and sing, and 
 pray ; and that since they have been better acquainted 
 with the way to worship God, He hears their prayers, 
 and that now, when they and their wives and children 
 are hungry, they pray for deer, and go out to hunt 
 and God sends them deer to satisfy their wants. Mr. 
 T. asked him who had taught them their new mode 
 of worshiping God. He answered, by the use of 
 signs, the man who wore glasses ; a signal by which 
 
262 THE LA DALLES INDIANS. 
 
 they distinguished me. It was interesting to know 
 that they were disposed to practice, as well as to listen 
 to what is taught them. 
 
 Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall 
 in English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and 
 endeavored to exhibit to them the great truths of the 
 Bible. They listened with deep interest to what I said, 
 and then enquired whether they might expect, after I 
 should go away, that some one would come and teach 
 them. I could not promise, but replied that I hoped it 
 would not be more than two snows, before some one 
 would be sent. They enquired if after one or two 
 sleeps,' I would let them come to my room and hear 
 more about God. I agreed to meet them on Tuesday 
 afternoon, and addressed them several succeeding times 
 before their departure. 
 
 It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that 
 the present is the favorable time for the introduction 
 of the gospel and civilization among the natives of this 
 wide interior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men 
 will make aggressions here, and the deadly influence 
 of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the religion 
 which they now are so anxious to embrace and prac- 
 tice. Every circumstance combines to point out the 
 time when this work should begin, and one of the most 
 important is that these Indians are enlisted in fa- 
 vor of white men, and feel that their condition, in all re- 
 spects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is better 
 than their own. A well-established Christian influ- 
 ence among these tribes, would surely be respected 
 by those who otherwise would invade their rights, 
 and deprive them of a home as dear to them as our 
 own is to us. 
 
 March 24th. The season is progressing in delight- 
 
 . 
 
THE NOOTKA. HUMMING BIRD. 263 
 
 ful mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are 
 beginning to send forth their fragrance ; and the 
 Nootka humming bird has arrived, and is seen darting 
 from bush to bush, feeding upon the open flowers. 
 This most splendid species is not known east of the 
 mountains. The whole of the upper part of the body 
 is rufous, the head greenish, the throat cupreous and 
 metalloidal crimson, varying according to the inci- 
 dence of light. The throat of this species resembles 
 that of the common, except that it is even more gor- 
 geous in its colors, and in presenting the metallic 
 feathers, forms a broad ruff in the inferior part of the 
 neck, instead of being wholly a component part of the 
 plumage. The swallows made their appearance on 
 the 12th, and a new species of blue bird, of uncom- 
 monly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 14th. The 
 swan, several species of geese, and the sand hill crane, 
 are passing to the north for incubation. Their scream- 
 ing notes are constantly heard, and in the night are 
 not the most favorable to repose. 
 
 Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper 
 to present, in a connected view, the best information I 
 have been able to obtain of the several nations, their 
 locations, and numbers. There are several tribes, 
 about whom my knowledge is too limited to make any 
 definite statements. Among them are those about Pu- 
 get's Sound, and the upper part of the Cowalitz ; also 
 the Chiltz Indians, north of the mouth of the Columbia 
 and Chealis rivers. And although I have seen many 
 of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the north of the 
 Cascades, yet I have not been able to learn of them 
 any thing more definite, than that they are a large na- 
 tion. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co- 
 lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence with 
 
264 THE INDIAN NATIONS. 
 
 the ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, 
 now numbers not more than fifteen hundred, or two 
 thousand.* 
 
 The Calapooah nation are located south of the Che- 
 nooks, upon the Willamette river and its branches. 
 They are divided into seventeen different tribes, under 
 their respective chiefs, and number about eight thou- 
 sand seven hundred and eighty persons, who speak 
 the same language, radically, with only a little differ- 
 ence in dialect. They are scattered over a territory 
 of two hundred miles north and south, and sixty east 
 and west. Their country is uncommonly good. 
 
 South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqua nation, re- 
 siding in a valley of the same name. They are di- 
 vided into six tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, 
 Quattamya, and Chasta. Their number is about 
 seven thousand. South of this nation and north of 
 California, there was a very powerful nation called the 
 Kincla, which before the year 1829, numbered four 
 thousand warriors. But if they have been swept 
 away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower 
 country have, it is probable their whole number of 
 men, women and children, would not now amount to 
 more than eight thousand. 
 
 Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, 
 are the Killamooks, who are numerous, but their num- 
 bers I could not ascertain. South of these, and at the 
 mouth of the Umbaqua river, there are the Saliutla, 
 and two other tribes, supposed to number 2000 per- 
 sons. 
 
 *My method of computing the number of persons in a nation, was to 
 ascertain the number of their lodges, which usually contain but one 
 family, and allowing five persons to constitute a family, which is a mode- 
 rate estimate, the number of the nation is obtained ; so that, by this 
 method of computation, the following estimate of Indians in and about 
 the Oregon Territory, is not over-rated, but below the real number. 
 
THE LOWER COUNTRY. 265 
 
 This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, 
 makes the number of those known to be about twenty- 
 five thousand. This is probably a low estimate. It 
 may safely be concluded, from facts now collected, 
 that there are, between the 42° and 47° north lati- 
 tude, in what we term the lower country, as many 
 as twenty-five thousand more, making fifty thousand, 
 who probably at the present moment would gladly re- 
 ceive teachers. 
 
 Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the 
 following statements of the numbers of Indians north of 
 Puget's Sound ; viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, 
 numbering two thousand one hundred and eighty-six. 
 At Hygana Harbor, five tribes or bands, amounting to 
 two thousand ninety-two. At Queen Charlotte's Isl- 
 and, eleven tribes, numbering eight thousand six hun- 
 dred persons. About Hanaga and Chatham Straits, 
 there are nine tribes, containing six thousand one hun- 
 dred and sixty persons. Making the whole number of 
 inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47° 
 and 55° of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty- 
 eight. At Queen Charlotte's Island there is a field of 
 much promise for a missionary station, where the ne- 
 cessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that 
 high northern latitude, the climate is very mild. 
 
 Their summer and winter residences are built of split 
 plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they 
 are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and po- 
 tatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ; 
 and wild meat is sometimes obtained. Their dress is 
 much the same as what has already been described. 
 Polygamy prevails, and also slavery. They do not 
 treat their slaves with as much kindness as the Indians 
 in the lower country of the Oregon Territory treat 
 12 
 
266 DUELLING. 
 
 theirs. When they kill their slaves, the loss of pro- 
 perty is the only thing they regard. Sometimes when 
 one chief becomes offended with another, instead of 
 challenging him to a duel, he goes home and kills a 
 number of slaves, and challenges the other to kill as 
 many. The challenged person, if he can, kills as many 
 or more, and notifies the challenger of the number ; 
 and thus they proceed until one or the other gains the 
 victory ; and the one who yields in this mode of com- 
 bat ceases to be a gentleman. " The point of honor" 
 with these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than in 
 our Christian country, for here the life of one satisfies 
 the powerful principle, but there, blood must flow pro- 
 fusely to quench the noble fire of high-minded re- 
 venge. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars, 
 which are often very bloody. They are much ad- 
 dicted to gambling, and dancing ; and it is said they 
 excel in singing. The country is mountainous, and is 
 generally covered with dense forests, consisting mostly 
 of fir. 
 
 On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes 
 of Indians, making a population of about four thousand 
 two hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very 
 cold and unpleasant ; but uninviting as it is, the Hud- 
 son Bay Company have found men who are willing to 
 reside there in sufficient numbers to make six establish- 
 ments, for the purpose of obtaining the peltries which 
 the Indians collect. Their principal establishment, 
 which is Fort Simpson, is on the upper part of the 
 river and is a place of much resort for the Indians. 
 
 March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower 
 plains, as they are called, and was delighted with the 
 freshness of the wheat fields, which are beginning to 
 
THE AGITATED QUESTION. 267 
 
 wave in the gentle breezes, and the forest trees are 
 beginning to show their leaves, and the plants their 
 flowers. The sea fowl, which through the winter 
 covered these fields, are gone to their summer resi- 
 dences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning their 
 notes, so full of melody. 
 
 The question, to whom does this country belong, has 
 been, and is becoming still more a question of general 
 interest, both in Great Britain and the United States. 
 The aboriginal population claim it as their own, and 
 say, they merely permit white men to reside among 
 them. Before the first discovery of the noble river, 
 which in itself and its branches waters almost the whole 
 territory, these natives had undisputed possession. But 
 their claim is laboriously, extensively, and practically 
 denied ; for authorities, both of written law, and the 
 opinion of living judges and expositors of law, sanction 
 the principle that " unsettled habitation is not true and 
 legal possession, and that nations who inhabit fertile 
 countries and disdain or refuse* to cultivate them, de- 
 serve to be extirpated." It is made, then, a question 
 of inquiry, whose claim to this region is best esta- 
 blished ? Our government claim exclusive dominion 
 against any foreign power, of all the country lying be- 
 tween the 42nd and 49th degrees of north latitude, by 
 treaties with nations who claim possessions contigu- 
 ous, and who have relinquished their claims to the 
 country included in the above parallels of latitude, ex- 
 cept Great Britain ; by the discovery of the principal 
 river by Capt. Gray of the ship Columbia, the 14th of 
 
 *The Indians do not disdain nor refuse to cultivate their lands. Their 
 game is becoming so scarce, that they see they must cultivate their 
 lands, or perish ; and they are anxious to be taught how, and to obtain 
 the means. 
 
268 THE QUESTION. 
 
 May, 1792 ; and by interior exploration. Great Bri- 
 tain claims the Columbia river for her southern boun- 
 dary, by right of discovery. Capt. Broughton, of the 
 ship Chatham, having ascended the river with two 
 boats, as far as where Fort Vancouver is now situated, 
 took possession of the river and country in the name 
 of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792. 
 Capt. Broughton was associated with Capt. Vancou- 
 ver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in 
 the north Pacific, and around the world. The posses- 
 sion was taken in his Britannic Majesty's name in due 
 form. A friendly old chief, who did not understand a 
 word of their language, nor they a word of his, was 
 invited to join in the ceremony, and to drink his Ma- 
 jesty's health. Captain Broughton says the chief ap- 
 peared much pleased with the transaction. But it may 
 be a subject of enquiry, with which the old friendly 
 chief was best pleased, with the rum he drank on the 
 occasion, or with the ceremony which was so full of 
 import. And farther, did the chief, by partaking of 
 his Majesty's rum and joining in the ceremony, cede 
 all this country to be the bona fide property of a fo- 
 reign nation ? Still Great Britain " does not set up any 
 claim of exclusive jurisdiction or sovereignty therein, 
 and denies the claim of the United States to any such 
 sovereign jurisdiction," but by treaty claims for its 
 subjects the right of joint occupancy, indefinitely de- 
 ferring the settlement of the question of exclusive do- 
 minion. But these intricate questions, so often asked, 
 I leave to learned diplomatists to decide, after confes- 
 sing that I am not able to discover why the nations 
 who have from time immemorial, occupied this coun- 
 try, and who like other nations, have their territorial 
 limits tolerably well defined among themselves, should 
 
REFLECTIONS. 269 
 
 not still possess the domain which our common Crea- 
 tor and Benefactor has kindly given them. It is a sub- 
 ject of increasing regret to every true friend of hu- 
 manity, that, unless the rapacious and acquisitive spirit, 
 which urges our nation to appropriate these western 
 territories, shall be restrained by the providence of 
 God, these Indian nations will be compelled to yield 
 their lands, their rights, and their lives to the merciless 
 invaders of their country. Is there such rectitude in 
 power, and such virtue in civilization, as to prove that 
 the bounties of divine providence were never designed 
 to be permanently possessed by the defenceless and 
 untaught, and that they are inevitably doomed to ex- 
 tinction by the hands of enlightened and powerful 
 men? The history of the past, and the operation of 
 present causes, show that as soon as the Indians shall 
 be induced to sell and cede the best portions of their 
 country, there being no farther west to which they can 
 be removed, the Indian race must expire, and in vain 
 will the voice of humanity enquire, what has become 
 of the aborigines of this country. 
 
 The time has arrived when I expect to resume the 
 work of further exploration. ' The weeks and months 
 which I have spent here have fled rapidly away, while 
 I have been feebly endeavoring during the winter to 
 benefit the people of the fort, and the Indians ; and to 
 embrace all the opportunities that should present, to 
 collect information in those particulars which pertain 
 to the direct object of my tour. I shall wander for a 
 length of time, yet future, among the wild scenes of na- 
 ture, which have so gratified and delighted me in tra- 
 versing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but my 
 heart looks back to a variety of interesting scenes of 
 civilized life and cultivated society in my own far 
 
270 LIBERALITY. 
 
 distant land, and I ardently desire to see the wide re- 
 gion before me brought under the same beauty and 
 cultivation. All the social affections of our nature 
 strongly desire the happiness, which refined and Chris- 
 tian society and its concomitant blessings can alone 
 give. A feeling of solitariness, and of desolation comes 
 over the mind as you stand on the banks of the noble 
 Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be for months, 
 no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of your 
 watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and 
 the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you that the white 
 man's great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its 
 way to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and to- 
 bacco. The most unimportant incidents become inte- 
 resting events, where so much monotony exists. 
 
 Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements 
 to leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief 
 clerk for my bill. He said the Company felt a plea- 
 sure in gratuitously conferring all they have done, for 
 the benefit of the object in which I am engaged. In 
 justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the ho- 
 norable Company, I would bear testimony to their uni- 
 form politeness and generosity ; and while I do this, I 
 would express my anxiety for their salvation, and that 
 they may be rewarded in spiritual blessings. In addi- 
 tion to the civilities I had received as a guest, I had 
 drawn upon their store for clothing, for goods to pay 
 my Indians, whom I had employed to convey me in 
 canoes in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles ; 
 to pay my guides and interpreters ; and upon their pro- 
 vision store for the support of these men while in my 
 employ. 
 
DEPARTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY. 271 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Departure for the upper country — American hunters — geology at the 
 Cascades — Indian honesty— escape in a dangerous gale*— the Falls a 
 favorable location for a missionary station— tender sympathy — fa," 
 mished Indians — arrival at Walla Walla — interesting meeting of In- 
 dians — opportunity to give them religious instruction — a walk — the 
 nutritious quality of prairie grass. 
 
 April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the 
 gentlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever re- 
 member, I took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief 
 belonging to the La Dalles. Our company consisted 
 of the chief and his daughter, another Indian who took 
 the bow, a half-blood named Baptiste who took the 
 stern, and two white men, who, with the chief, helped 
 to propel the canoe, making seven persons. These, 
 with the baggage of several hundred weight, loaded 
 the frail craft so heavily, that its sides were only about 
 seven inches above water. This, upon a river ave- 
 raging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and 
 subject to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But 
 at this season of the year, when the Indians are about 
 to commence fishing, another canoe could not be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to 
 what are called the upper plains on the north side of 
 the river, and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful 
 prairie of some miles in circumference, and at this 
 early part of the spring was covered with a coat of 
 fresh green grass five or six inches high. A little back 
 from the river, there is a beautiful lake, the resort of 
 
272 THE CASCADES. 
 
 water fowl, which are seen exhibiting their unsullied 
 plumage ; and in the rear are forests of fir, whither 
 the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee, when 
 they see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering 
 storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for 
 as yet no friendly habitations are reared upon these 
 fertile fields for the resort and comfort of man. 
 
 The rain continuing with some wind, we did not 
 decamp on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; 
 after which we passed up into the mountainous part of 
 the country below the Cascades, and encamped near 
 the high Pillar rock which I have mentioned. Soon 
 after leaving our encampment this morning, we met 
 Captain W. with a small company of men in two ca- 
 noes lashed together, on their way to Fort William 
 upon Wappatoo Island. They were wet with the rain 
 of the morning ; and their meagre countenances and 
 tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the 
 happiness of mountain life, or indicate that they had 
 found the hunter's elysium. But they were in good 
 spirits and passed merrily on their way. 
 
 The basaltic rocks which wall up the shores, in some 
 places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and 
 in this place for miles, do not lose in interest by re- 
 view. For more than half a mile the columnar basalt 
 presented the regular pentagons. Near these, where 
 the shore was inaccessible, we found a deer almost ex- 
 hausted with swimming in the cold water. Its help- 
 less condition and its mild, large black eye, excited by 
 fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our 
 men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it 
 needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river 
 with its blood. I could not help feeling a sympathy 
 for this poor, beautiful animal. 
 
INDIAN HONESTY. 273 
 
 While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were 
 engaged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the 
 Cascades, I walked five miles, sometimes along the 
 shore of the river, and sometimes climbing over pre- 
 cipices ; and so laborious was the task to get the ca- 
 noe above all the rapids and falls, that it occupied most 
 of the day, giving me time for examining the scenery 
 around. Almost every variety of volcanic production 
 was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predominated. 
 Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered 
 along the shores, some of which preserved its natural 
 appearance ; but the large blocks, when broken, pre- 
 sented the appearance of mineral coal. The scenery 
 around is grand ; yet such was the misty state of the 
 atmosphere about the tops* of the mountains, which 
 were at this time covered with snow, and the dullness 
 accompanying, that the enjoyment was less than it 
 would have been under other circumstances. After 
 having finished the portage by the Cascades, we 
 launched out upon the gentle current above, and pro- 
 ceeding up the river two miles, encamped upon the 
 north side. Several Indians came to our encampment 
 and manifested a kind and sociable disposition. They 
 told us that Captain W. the day before, in cordelling 
 his canoes down the Cascades, had lost one, and with 
 it baggage, of which they had found some articles, 
 which they would deliver to him when he should again 
 pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their 
 winter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon. 
 
 The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. 
 It was a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came 
 down in torrents, which is common about these moun- 
 tains through the rainy season of the year. We were 
 
 12* 
 
274 DANGEROUS GALE. 
 
 not able to make a fire for preparing food, until after 
 twelve o'clock, when the storm began to abate. 
 
 On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and 
 we made very good progress up the river, through a 
 country of diversified scenery. Though less mountain- 
 ous than about the Cascades, yet here were mountains 
 of interesting forms ; one was almost a perfect cone, 
 a thousand feet high, rising at an angle of 45 degrees, 
 beautifully smooth and covered with grass. We 
 passed, a few miles above this, a bluff presenting a 
 perpendicular semicircle, with fissures regularly radi- 
 ating from the centre of the diameter. In different 
 places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt 
 brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, 
 upon a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, 
 where we found a good supply of dry wood, which 
 added to our comfort and convenience. 
 
 A wind which blew very fresh through the night, 
 abated on the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded 
 on our way with a gentle breeze, before which we 
 spread a sail made of a blanket. The wind continued 
 to increase until the middle of the day, which rendered 
 navigation rather dangerous. We came to a large 
 bend in the river, and to save the distance of coasting 
 around, the men who rowed wished to pass over to 
 the south side of the river, which was here more than 
 a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experiment, 
 because the wind and waves were too high for our 
 deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to save 
 labor, I did not persist in my objections. We had not 
 passed more than half way across, before the increa- 
 sing wind raised waves which rolled and broke three 
 times as high as our canoe, and threatened to over- 
 whelm us. At length the men were not able to keep 
 
EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE. 275 
 
 the canoe headed across the waves, and it turned side- 
 ways to them. It seemed that nothing short of a mi- 
 raculous providence could save us. But by much ex- 
 ertion and some abatement of the wind, we again got 
 the canoe upon our course, and obliquely across the 
 waves, and safely arrived at the south shore. But our 
 greatest danger was yet before us. After coasting a 
 few miles along the south shore, we came to a pro- 
 montory called Cape Horn, a name given it on account 
 of the dangers of passing. It is of volcanic formation, 
 rising, as I afterwards found by measurement, two 
 hundred feet perpendicular upon the water's edge, 
 extending about a mile in length, and the lower part 
 projecting several hundred feet into the river. The 
 wind had so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any 
 danger in passing it, but when we had doubled the 
 Cape, the wind drew around and increased to a gale. 
 The foaming, breaking waves ran high, and we could 
 not return against the wind, and to go forward against 
 the current was to add to the danger of being filled, 
 or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the force 
 of the wind, and such the efforts of the men to keep 
 the canoe across the waves and away from the rocks, 
 that in the same instant of time, the bowman and 
 steersman both broke their paddles, and the sail was 
 torn away from the left fastening, and whirled over to 
 the right side of the canoe. It seemed that all hope 
 was gone. There were only three paddles remaining, 
 two of which were immediately put into the hands of 
 the steersman and bowman. It was impossible to re- 
 turn, and to make progress against the current with 
 only such means, appeared equally impracticable. A 
 watery grave seemed inevitable ; but by the pro- 
 tecting mercy of God, when the waves broke, it was 
 
276 LA DALLES. 
 
 just without the canoe. It was necessary to our safety 
 to be collected and fearless, and we cleared the sail, 
 and gave orders as though no danger was near. Con- 
 trary to our highest expectations, we continued to 
 make headway up the river, assisted probably by one 
 of those large eddies, which abound in this river, until 
 we came to a small bay with a sandy shore, where we 
 safely moored our frail barque, and waited until the 
 winds and weather became more favorable. 
 
 After the winds had somewhat abated, Indians came 
 to us from the opposite shore, of whom we bought pad- 
 dles, and being again equipped for our voyage, we 
 proceeded up the river to the La Dalles, and as far 
 through them as we could safely go. Here we landed 
 and encamped on the north shore, and a number of In- 
 dians soon came to us, whom we engaged to carry us 
 with horses, to the navigable waters above the Falls. 
 Near this was a very large eddy, where, two years pre- 
 viously, nine men were drowned. Their bateau was 
 drawn into it and capsized, and only one man escaped, 
 which he effected by clinging to a bag containing some 
 empty kegs. He was carried a few miles down the 
 river, and then taken up by Indians who were passing 
 in a canoe. 
 
 The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles 
 and the Falls, above which we encamped. This place 
 affords a favorable location for missionaries. The In- 
 dians resort here in large numbers for fishing, and re- 
 main usually through the summer, and some of them 
 through the year. An intercourse would be always 
 open with surrounding tribes, and facilities would be 
 at hand both to disseminate the truths of the gospel, 
 and to obtain the means of comfortable subsistence. 
 
 As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are 
 
CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE. 277 
 
 here in great numbers preparing for fishing, came 
 around us and their first enquiry was for pi pi, (to- 
 bacco.) I am much disgusted with this noxious plant, 
 and am resolved no longer to consider it necessary to 
 conciliate the Indians by smoking the friendly pipe. If 
 an Indian is suffering with hunger and nakedness, his 
 first request is for tobacco. As we had parted with 
 the Indians who came with us from Fort Vancouver, 
 we here engaged two others to assist us as far as 
 Walla Walla. 
 
 On the 21st, we took a bateau which we found here, 
 and progressed slowly up the river against the current 
 and frequent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while 
 encamped, and the men were making preparation for 
 breakfast, I rambled into a little village in the neigh- 
 borhood, and called at a lodge, whose inmates consisted 
 of an aged woman, a younger one, and four little girls. 
 I addressed them in the Chenook language, but they 
 did not understand me. Being tolerably familiar with 
 the language of signs, I enquired whose were those 
 children. The younger woman signified that three of 
 them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan, whom 
 she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pathetic 
 manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little 
 of which was intelligible. The aged matron sitting on 
 the ground of her movable lodge, with her head re- 
 clining upon her hand, occasionally introduced a few 
 sentences to aid the narration ; and so sad and affect- 
 ing was the whole accent and sound of their voices, 
 that I freely sympathized with them, and nodded my 
 assent to all they said. I regretted the necessity which 
 compelled me to leave them without being able to 
 point them to Him, who is touched with the feelings of 
 our infirmities, and who binds up the broken in heart. 
 
278 FAMISHED INDIANS. 
 
 I thought, as I walked slowly back to my breakfast, 
 how little of the savage character was exhibited by 
 these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable 
 sensibilities would have done honor to any civilized 
 society. 
 
 Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side 
 of the river, at a place of great resort for the Indians, 
 but they had not come in from their winter retreat. 
 There were many canoes drawn up at a short distance 
 from the shore, and left without any apprehensions of 
 their being stolen, showing the confidence the Indians 
 have in each others honesty. They do not need 
 guards, nor bolts and bars, and prisons. 
 
 To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we 
 selected a place densely covered with wild broom corn 
 of last year's growth yet standing, and in the rear of 
 willows which here skirted the shore of the river. 
 Two Indians came to our encampment, who were as 
 miserable objects as I have seen. They were not 
 more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits 
 patched together ; and were emaciated with starva- 
 tion. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity, 
 the traveler needs to carry with him a store of cloth- 
 ing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, with- 
 out having the means of furnishing them substantial 
 relief. 
 
 On the 25th, we made slow progress against the 
 strong current with our poorly manned bateau, and 
 failing of arriving at Walla Walla, as we had hoped, 
 encamped under the high basaltic rocks, where we 
 found a small spot of soil furnishing some wood. The 
 next morning we arrived at the fort, where I met at the 
 landing a number of Nez Perce Indians waiting my 
 arrival. I felt much satisfaction in seeing them, and in 
 
FULFILMENT OF PROMISE. 279 
 
 witnessing their tokens of affection. It was like meet- 
 ing old friends ; and there appeared to be so much un- 
 feigned pleasure in the reception they gave me, that it 
 inspired the hope, that the disposition they express to 
 learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation 
 more permanent than novelty. I had told a band of 
 the Cayuse Indians, on my way down the river last 
 October, that I would meet them here in the spring, 
 and inform them about God and the way to worship 
 him. Many of them were here, ready to attend to the 
 fulfilment of my promise, and undoubtedly my arrival 
 at the appointed time, confirmed their confidence. 
 
 As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to 
 continue here a week or two, and improve such oppor- 
 tunities as might offer for instructing the Indians resi- 
 ding near this place, and those who might come from 
 more remote places; making the best use of such faci- 
 lities as can be obtained, without waiting for the tho- 
 rough knowledge of their language, which the prudence 
 of some persons would consider indispensable to the 
 commencement of teaching them the way of eternal 
 life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the reli- 
 gion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its 
 gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will 
 result in indifference or disgust, is as great as that an 
 early attempt to impart instructions may be connected 
 with imperfections. 
 
 During my continuance in this place, I preached on 
 the Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to 
 the fort, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cay- 
 use, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. They al- 
 ways gave good attention, and some appeared to be 
 much interested. An instance of opposition to the 
 truths of the gospel occurred here, proving the truth of 
 
280 A WALK GRAND SCENERY. 
 
 the scriptures, that the Saviour is set for the fall and 
 rising of those who hear. A chief of the Cayuses, who 
 several times came to hear, disliked what was said 
 about a plurality of wives. He said he would not part 
 with any of his ; for he had always lived in sin and 
 was going to the place of burning, and it was too late 
 for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be 
 saved ; and as he must go to that place, he would go 
 in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those who 
 are familiar with the various methods to which sinners 
 resort, to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience, 
 may see in his deep hatred to holiness, that the opera- 
 tion of sin is the same in every unsanctified heart. 
 This is the only instance of open opposition, that I wit- 
 nessed among the Indians ; nor does it characterize the 
 Cayuse tribe. They very much resemble the Nez 
 Perces in their peaceable disposition, and desire to be 
 instructed, and present, in connection with the Walla 
 Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor. 
 
 May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Co- 
 lumbia through the basaltic mountain, two miles be- 
 low the fort, to take a more particular view of the 
 scenery than can be obtained in a hasty passage on the 
 river. I ascended the mountain, from the top of which 
 I had a fine prospect of the country around, opening in 
 every direction as far as the eye could reach. All 
 parts were covered with the fresh green of spring ve- 
 getation. Very few forests were to be seen in any di- 
 rection, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the 
 south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by 
 forests at this season, were softened by the distance to 
 a hazy blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual 
 snows of Mount Hood, could be distinguished at the 
 west ; and at the north-west Mount Rainier near Pu- 
 
PRAIRIE GRASS. 281 
 
 get's Sound; and at the north and the east various 
 parts of scattered mountains, yet covered with snows. 
 After some time employed in looking around upon the 
 vast expanse, I approached the perpendicular walls, 
 between which the Columbia descends, which are 
 about three hundred feet high, as I ascertained by the 
 number of seconds occupied in the descent of large 
 stones, projected from the brink of the precipice, which 
 I distinctly heard when they struck upon the shore 
 below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, the 
 latter varying much in color and density, some of it 
 sufficiently porous and light to swim upon water. 
 Two thirds of the way down this deep channel, are 
 two high eminences called the Pillars, to which, by a 
 circuitous route, I descended. They stand upon con- 
 ical bases, eighty or a hundred feet high above the 
 river ; and above these bases rise nearly a hundred 
 feet perpendicular, they are indeed remarkable ; but 
 there are so many singular formations in this volcanic 
 country, that curiosities become common. I returned, 
 though much fatigued with my long walk over prairies, 
 precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the ex- 
 amination of the works of nature. 
 
 My horses and mule, which I had left with the Nez 
 Perce Indians, were kept in their country, one hun- 
 dred and thirty miles east of this place, and were in 
 April brought into this neighborhood. To-day, May 
 5th, they were caught and brought to the fort. I was 
 surprised to find them in fine order, with new coats, 
 and in high spirits. They had run out on the prairies 
 without any shelter from the storms, and with no food, 
 except what the remains of the previous summer's 
 growth afforded, together with the early grass of 
 spring. Who would have supposed considering their 
 
282 HIGH WINDS 
 
 worn down condition, when I left them in October, 
 that with no other fare they would have fattened dur- 
 ing the winter. This fact shows the superior mildness 
 of the climate, and the nutritive quality of prairie grass, 
 even after dried up with the summer drouth. Another 
 evidence of the truth of this remark may be seen in the 
 condition of the cattle kept at this fort. With nothing 
 more to feed upon than what they find upon the prai- 
 ries, they are now not only in good order, but some of 
 them are actually fat, and in as good condition for mar- 
 ket, as oxen driven from the stalls of New England. 
 
 I rode to-day with Mr. Pambrun, ten miles up the 
 river to the confluence of the Lewis, or as it is called, 
 the Nez Perce river, with the Columbia. They are 
 both noble streams ; the Columbia is nearly three- 
 fourths of a mile, and the Nez Perce a half mile wide. 
 The prospect around is delightful ; the soil is good, as 
 is evidenced by the fresh verdure which is springing 
 up luxuriantly, at this early season. A large band of 
 horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are feeding 
 here. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses do 
 not often stray from the place where they are left ; 
 habit, however produced, is as good a safeguard as en- 
 closures. Along upon the shores of the river, I found 
 specimens of calcedony and cornelian. 
 
 The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer 
 standing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, 
 which is an unfrequent occurrence west of the great 
 mountains. Towards and through the night the wind 
 blew very strongly, and shook the bastion which I oc- 
 cupied, so that it seemed as if it would be prostrated 
 to the earth ; but such wind in this particular section 
 of country is common. 
 
 During the time of my continuance here, I had 
 
WALLA WALLA INDIANS. 283 
 
 more frequent opportunities to address the Indians, 
 and in greater numbers, than I had anticipated. From 
 the promise that the Word of God shall not return 
 void, but shall accomplish that whereunto it is sent, 
 may not the hope be indulged, that some good fruits 
 will be the result of these labors. The Walla Walla 
 tribe, though the descendents of emancipated slaves, 
 are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with 
 the same respect. 
 
284 JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Journey to the Nez Perce country — funeral of a child — natural scenery 
 — worship on the Sabbath — return to Walla Walla — industry of the 
 Indians — battle ground — practice of smoking — journey to Colvile. 
 
 May 9th. In company with several Nez Perce In- 
 dians who had come down from their own country to 
 escort me, I commenced my journey, and pursued the 
 same route by which I came last autumn. Nothing 
 eventful marked our way and we arrived at the Snake 
 or Lewis river, the evening of the eleventh, where we 
 found several lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us 
 a very cordial reception, and a warm-hearted shake 
 of the hand, the common expression of Indian friend- 
 ship. The night of our arrival a little girl about six 
 or seven years of age, died, and on the morning of the 
 twelfth they buried her. Every thing relating to the 
 burial was conducted with great propriety. The 
 grave was only about two feet deep ; for they have no 
 spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the 
 earth, and this was removed with the hands ; and with 
 their hands they filled up the grave after the body was 
 deposited in it. A mat was laid in the grave, then the 
 body wrapped in its blanket, with the child's drinking 
 cup and spoon made of horn ; then a mat of rushes 
 spread over the whole, and it was filled up, as above 
 described. In this instance they had prepared a cross 
 to set up at the grave, most probably having been told 
 to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I 
 saw west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teach- 
 
NATURAL SCENERY. 285 
 
 ers, but as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. 
 One grave in the same village had a cross standing 
 over it, which, together with this, were the only relics 
 of the kind I saw during my travels in the country. 
 But as I viewed a cross of wood of no avail, to benefit 
 either the dead or the living, and far more likely to 
 operate as a salvo to a guilty conscience, or a step- 
 ping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood in its 
 spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I 
 took this, which the Indians had prepared and broke it 
 in pieces. I then told them that we place a stone at 
 the head and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; 
 and without a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, 
 and adopted our custom. 
 
 As we proceded up the river to the confluence of 
 the Coos-coots-ke, on account of the high water, we 
 had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt, at the 
 foot of which we traveled down last fall, and which I 
 have mentioned. We were compelled often to ap- 
 proach very near the brink, where it seemed as if we 
 were almost suspended over the dizzy depth of three 
 hundred feet. We arrived at the Coos-coots-ke early 
 in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla 
 Walla, making the distance about 120 miles. The 
 whole country had put on the loveliness of spring, and 
 divested itself of the dreariness of winter, and the gran- 
 deur of the mountain scenery appeared to rise before 
 me with new freshness and delight. The Indians are 
 assembling in great numbers from different and dis- 
 tant parts of the country, to enquire about the religion 
 that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which 
 they also think has power to elevate them in the scale 
 of society in this world, and place them on a level with 
 intelligent as well as Christian white men. 
 
286 THE OPHTHALMY. 
 
 On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, 
 and down the Nez Perce river, the country is diversi- 
 fied with hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, 
 from five hundred to two thousand feet high. The 
 volcanic and argillaceous strata are generally horizon- 
 tal, but often thrown into various degrees of inclina- 
 tion, from horizontal to perpendicular ; in other places 
 curved or waving. They have all the regularity of 
 works of art, raised up by human skill ; and why should 
 not the power and skill of an Omnipotent hand be 
 acknowledged in these stupendous works ? 
 
 After having been several months where the Indians 
 of the lower country came daily under my observa- 
 tion, the contrast between them and these with whom 
 I am now, is very noticeable. The former are more 
 servile and abject, both in their manner and spirit ; 
 while the latter are truly dignified and respectable in 
 their manners and general appearance, far less enslaved 
 to their appetites, or to those vices whose inevitable 
 tendency is to degrade. They know enough to set 
 some estimate upon character, and have much of the 
 proud independence of freemen ; and are desirous of 
 possessing a consequence in the estimation of other peo- 
 ple, and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they re- 
 ceive any instruction with remarkable docility. 
 
 Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are 
 coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with 
 me ; but as I have little prospect of the arrival of my 
 interpreter, I shall probably be left to commiserate their 
 anxiety, while it will be out of my power to do them 
 good. 
 
 I have frequent applications to prescribe for the 
 ophthalmy, with which the people are much afflicted, 
 and which I should think is a prevalent endemic. Calo- 
 
WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH. 287 
 
 mel, applied in about the quantity of one grain to each 
 eye, (Jffce in twenty-four hours, I found to be an effica- 
 cious remedy. No injurious effects were known to 
 have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was 
 successful. 
 
 The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill 
 and bravery in war. This they have mentioned to 
 me, but say they now are afraid to go to war ; for 
 they no longer believe that all who fall in battle go to 
 a happy country. They now believe that the only 
 way to be happy here or hereafter, is by knowing and 
 doing what God requires. They have learned enough 
 to fear the consequences of dying unforgiven, but not 
 sufficient to embrace the hopes and consolations of the 
 gospel. I have been interested to see the reasonings 
 of their minds, and the result of their reflections, amidst 
 the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as they yet 
 possess. It demonstrates that they are not indifferent 
 to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisitive, 
 and capable of thought and investigation. They have 
 obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the dark- 
 ness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to 
 be hoped, that these efforts to enlighten them will be 
 followed by those still more efficient, until that meri- 
 dian day foretold in prophecy, shall fully come, and 
 these heathen be given to the Savior with all the re- 
 mote ends of the earth for a possession. 
 
 Sabbath, 15th. The interpreter I had been expect- 
 ing did not arrive, and consequently much of what I 
 wished to say to these hundreds of Indians, could not 
 be communicated for the want of a medium. I felt 
 distressed for them. They desired to celebrate the 
 Sabbath after a Christian manner. When the chiefs 
 came and enquired what they should do, I told them to 
 
288 RETURN TO WALLA WALLA. 
 
 collect the people into an assembly and spend the hours 
 of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and 4» con- 
 versation on those things about which I formerly in- 
 structed them. They did so, and it was truly affect- 
 ing to see their apparent reverence, order, and devo- 
 tion, while I could not but know that their knowledge 
 was limited indeed. The voice of their singing echoed 
 from the hills and vales, and I could not but hope, that 
 the time will not be greatly future, when they will sing 
 with the spirit and with the understanding. As a proof 
 that they have acquired some correct ideas of spiritual 
 worship, in distinction from the employment of mere 
 outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian who attended me 
 so faithfully on my outward route, came to me, anxious 
 to describe the different manner in which he regarded 
 the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teutacus. 
 He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutacus 
 prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to 
 occupy much of his prayers, and if there is one among 
 this multitude, who, it may be hoped, has been ever- 
 lastingly benefitted by the gospel, I believe it is this 
 man. 
 
 Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat un- 
 decided what course to pursue in my future move- 
 ments ; but came to the conclusion to proceed to the 
 place of Rendezvous ; and join the returning caravan, 
 provided I could go by the way of the Grand Round, 
 and to the South-west of the Snake river, and explore 
 a part of the country which I had not passed through 
 the preceding autumn. But the Indians chose to take 
 the retired route of the Salmon river mountains, to 
 avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well as- 
 certained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors 
 ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I 
 
INDIAN INDUSTRY. 289 
 
 wished to explore the north-east branch of the Colum- 
 bia, which runs through an important part of the 
 country, and upon which, and its branches, many con- 
 siderable tribes reside. 
 
 To return by the way my company would travel, 
 and by which I came, would be to leave the object of 
 my tour only partially accomplished ; and after can- 
 vassing the subject as deliberately as I could, I con- 
 cluded to return to Walla Walla, procure guides and 
 assistants, and go up the Columbia as far as Colvile, 
 which is the highest post of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 about seven hundred miles by the traveled route, from 
 the Pacific Ocean. I informed the Indians of my de- 
 termination, who, though they evidently preferred 
 that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the deci- 
 sion, and showed more kindness than I had expected. 
 They readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young 
 chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. 
 After writing several letters, to forward to the United 
 States from Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our 
 proposed destination, and at night arrived at the vil- 
 lage on the Nez Perce river, where we had encamped 
 on the eleventh. 
 
 At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the 
 industry of these people. Some were engaged in 
 catching fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the 
 women and children were early out on horseback to 
 procure the cowish root, which they often manufac- 
 ture into bread ; and when we left, only a few old 
 persons and very young children remained in their 
 village. Five or six miles from this village, up a 
 small branch of this river, we passed a spot which, 
 some few years ago, was a battle-field between the 
 Nez Perces and some other nation, whose name I 
 13 
 
290 PRACTICE OF SMOKING. 
 
 could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was 
 the Bonax, Tuelca. The ground was judiciously chosen 
 by the invading party, which was just back of a point 
 of land coming down near the stream of water, leav- 
 ing only a narrow pass, around which they opened a 
 fire, while the Nez Perces, not expecting the approach 
 of a foe were taken by surprise, and fifteen or twenty 
 of their number were killed. The very spot where 
 each individual fell is now designated by heaps of 
 stones raised three and four feet high. 
 
 The country over which we passed to-day, a dis- 
 tance of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diver- 
 sified with hills and valleys and covered with its self- 
 provided carpet of lovely green. Several Indians 
 came on after us and traveled in company. Near 
 night we encamped in a rich valley, through which a 
 considerable stream of water runs to the north. Be- 
 fore it was dark, a number more whom I recognized 
 as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re- 
 luctant to separate from our company. I conversed 
 with them about the practice so universal among the 
 men of using tobacco .for smoking, a very expensive 
 indulgence for which they pay almost as much as for 
 their whole list of comforts besides. In reply to my ar- 
 guments to dissuade them from its use, they said " white 
 men smoke." I admitted the truth, but told them that 
 all white men are not wise in every thing they do ; 
 that they have some practices which are not good. 
 The Nez Perces call tobacco, smoke, and remarked, 
 " we are better then than white men ; for they eat 
 smoke" — meaning tobacco — "we do not eat smoke." 
 This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, 
 and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment 
 to this stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will 
 
RICH SOIL. 291 
 
 part with the last article of food or clothing, or even 
 take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and 
 sell them for fuel. I regarded it as a vice, from which 
 they should be rescued if practicable. 
 
 The 18th we continued our journey and rode forty- 
 five miles over a more fertile tract than w r e passed yes- 
 terday, and better supplied with wood. On the upper 
 part of the Walla Walla river is a delightful situation 
 for a missionary establishment, having many advan- 
 tages not found for some distance around. It is not, 
 however, so central for either the Nez Perces, Cayu- 
 ses, or Walla Wallas, as would be desirable, yet a 
 mission located on this fertile field would draw around 
 an interesting settlement, who would cultivate the soil, 
 and be instructed. How easily might the plough go 
 through these valleys, and what rich and abundant 
 harvests might be gathered by the hand of industry. 
 But even now the spontaneous productions of these 
 vast plains, including millions of acres, are so profuse, 
 that not the fiftieth part become^ the food of organic 
 life. In some places bands of Indian horses are seen ; 
 the timid deer, the hare, the wary marmot, and the 
 swift gazelle. But these, with other animals, consume 
 so small a proportion, that these wide fields are com- 
 paratively unoccupied. 
 
 We experienced a long detention on the morning of 
 the 19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into 
 a ravine, to which retreat we could not easily trace 
 them. They did not however, violate their rule of 
 making our encampment, for the time being, their 
 home. We rode twenty-two miles and arrived at 
 Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the week 
 was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north- 
 east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. Pam- 
 
292 JOURNEY TO COLVILE. 
 
 brun assisted in obtaining Indian guides, and desig- 
 nated two French voyageurs to be my assistants ; one 
 of whom could speak some English. I concluded to 
 take horses, and go up through the Spokein country, 
 leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the left 
 some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the 
 river. This would give me a more extended observa- 
 tion of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of 
 their condition in regard to prospects of establishing 
 teachers among them. 
 
 On Sabbath, the 22d, we had worship as usual, and 
 the following day commenced the journey for Colvile. 
 Our course was in an easterly direction forty miles, 
 and at night we found a new place to lay our heads 
 for rest, in a valley presenting all the appearance of 
 the farmer's grass fields, ready for the mower's hand, 
 and from which he expects to receive a future gain. 
 But the natives not appreciating these sources of 
 profit, neglect them altogether, and gather only a 
 scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow 
 spontaneously in the waste. 
 
PALOOSE INDIANS. 293 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Paloose Indians — Pavilion river — extraordinary observation — lost on the 
 prairie — Indian principle — Spokein woods and country — Indian ferry 
 — Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities— fertile valley — wor- 
 ship with the Spokeius — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort Colvile — 
 description of the place ; leave Culvile for Fort Okanagan — a moun- 
 tain of marble — Grand Coule, or old bed. of the Columbia — Okanagan 
 described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla. 
 
 The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly 
 course, and after travelling five hours over a some- 
 what high but diversified country, descended into a 
 fertile valley, through which flowed a small tributary 
 of the Snake river. Here we found a village of Pa- 
 loose Indians who are a band of the Nez Perces. We 
 hired them to assist us in crossing the river, which 
 here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid current. 
 We had only a small canoe, which the strength of the 
 current carried more than a half mile down the river 
 before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times 
 we had to encounter the stream, before every thing 
 was safely over ; and the horses made a strong effort 
 to swim to the opposite shore. This, together with 
 refitting, employed several hours. We travelled up 
 the Pavilion river, which comes from the high lands 
 that divide the waters of this and the Spokein river. 
 This river is walled up with basalt, generally high and 
 perpendicular, in various windings and forms, for the 
 distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places 
 the walls are spread out so widely as to enclose large 
 
294 EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION. 
 
 spaces of rich interval ; in other places so closing up- 
 on the river as to leave only space sufficient for it to 
 pass. The night was cold, the thermometer standing 
 on the morning of the 25th, at 34°. 
 
 May, 25th. We pursued our way over hills and 
 valleys of an entire prairie, until we came to the south 
 part of the Spokein country. Near the summit level 
 which divides the waters of the Snake and Spokein 
 rivers, there is an interesting excavation, walled within 
 by basaltic rocks. The pillars are regular pentagons 
 from two to four feet in diameter, in sections of various 
 lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a 
 wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The excavated 
 enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet nearly 
 entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the outside 
 of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gra- 
 dually slopes off in hills and dales. By what agency 
 was this excavation formed ? There is no appear- 
 ance, as in many other places, of volcanic craters, un- 
 less it is itself a crater, and there are no signs of the 
 action of water. May it not have been a subsidence ? 
 I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admi- 
 ration these huge crystals, of dark materials truly, but 
 showing not the less for that circumstance, that certain 
 laws govern the mineral world as well as the animal 
 or vegetable. 
 
 We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez 
 Perce and Spokein nations. They all manifested a 
 perfectly friendly disposition, but appeared to be poor, 
 evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We 
 stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near 
 one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language dif- 
 fers entirely from that of any tribe or nation I have yet 
 seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently ac- 
 
LOST ON THE PRAIRIE. 295 
 
 quainted with it to inform them of the object of my 
 tour through their country, with which they were not 
 only satisfied, but apparently interested. 
 
 We took an early departure on the morning of the 
 26th, but travelled only a few hours before my Indian 
 guides lost the trail and the course they should pursue. 
 Becoming confident that they were not right, I alighted 
 and set my pocket compass, and discovered that in- 
 stead of a north-east direction, they were going west. 
 Enquiring of them if they knew where to find our trail 
 again, one of them, a young chief, putting his hand to 
 his head, and with gestures expressing the confusion of 
 his mind, answered, waiitu en soko, " I do not know." 
 Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had very 
 injudiciously left our rifles behind, and were at about 
 an equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a 
 widely extended prairie, with provisions adequate to 
 our wants only for two days, and no probable means 
 for obtaining more until we should arrive at the fort ; 
 to be lost under these circumstances was very unpleas- 
 ant. The point of a high mountain we had passed 
 "was in view, and we might retrace our path, and there- 
 fore I was determined not to lose sight of this land- 
 mark until we should find the trail leading to the Spo- 
 kein river. While my guides went off in search of it, 
 I could hardly fail to find, even in our circumstances, 
 some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen. 
 They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way 
 through any country, as by intuition, that they will 
 sing or go to sleep with the same heedless indifference 
 when lost in a wide wilderness, as when launched up- 
 on the waters of a well known river, or performing the 
 duties of the fort. They appear wholly unconscious 
 of danger on the approach of hunger and starvation, 
 
296 SPOKEIN VALLEY. 
 
 until long after the last morsel is consumed, and never 
 borrow from futurity to add to the evils that afflict 
 them to-day. On this occasion these men spent the 
 time of our detention in calm repose. After some time 
 our guides returned and told me they had found some 
 Spokein Indians about a mile distant, who were trav- 
 eling towards the south, but had stopped to refresh 
 their horses. We proceeded to the place, and I en- 
 gaged one of them to assist us in finding the way to 
 the main trail, or to the Spokein river. He was a tall, 
 intelligent looking man. He mounted his horse, and 
 set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, 
 it was with difficulty we could keep up with him. Af- 
 ter going at this rate more than an hour, he stopped, 
 and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find the 
 great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose 
 our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their 
 village on the river, but could not prevail upon him to 
 go any farther, although I offered him a large compen- 
 sation. His only and unvarying answer was, that he 
 had done for us all that was needed, and why should 
 he perform any unnecessary labor for us and take pay. 
 It appeared to be a principle with him, that it would 
 be wrong for him to take pay for what we did not 
 need. I was astonished at the honesty of this hea- 
 then, and his steadfast adherence to it, when I remem- 
 bered how many there are in civilized lands, who to 
 be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unneces- 
 sary extent, and artfully deceive you to make you be- 
 lieve it very important. For his faithfulness and hon- 
 esty I not only paid him on the spot to his satisfaction, 
 but afterwards sent him a present of powder and balls, 
 articles highly valued. 
 
 Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the 
 
SPOKEIN VALLEY. 297 
 
 Spokein river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles af- 
 ter we left the' lake, we entered the Spokein woods, 
 which are very extensive, consisting of yellow, pitch, 
 and elastic pine, some hemloc, spruce and fir, together 
 with various shrubbery. These are the woods in 
 which Ross Cox was lost, about the circumstances of 
 which he gives a very interesting description, but 
 which, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge, 
 contains far more of fiction than truth. But his multi- 
 tude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and 
 alarming rattlesnakes, of which I have seen only one, 
 may yet come out from their lurking places in hostile 
 array. 
 
 When we came to the river, which is about thirty 
 rods wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who 
 keeps a canoe ferry, but without suecess. At length 
 two women came to the river, and with uncommonly 
 pleasant voices, together with the language of signs, 
 the latter of which only I could understand, informed 
 us that the ferryman was gone upon a short hunt, would 
 return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two 
 hours high, he would come and take us over. I never 
 heard voices more expressive of kindness. I requested 
 them to paddle the canoe over to us, and my men 
 would perform the labor of ferrying over our baggage. 
 They declined on account of the rapidity and strength 
 of the current, the river being in full freshet. There- 
 fore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. 
 
 This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not ex- 
 tensively wide. The North-west Company had a tra- 
 ding post here, one bastion of which is still standing. 
 These woods present a fine range for the ornitholo- 
 gist. The magpie is seen in great numbers, flying 
 from tree to tree, vociferating its chattering notes. 
 H* 
 
298 SPOKEIN VALLEY. 
 
 Also, thrushes, warblers and wrens are numerous, 
 cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with their de- 
 lightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their 
 carols appear! to be designed to animate each other 
 in their intervals of labor, while constructing their 
 habitations so admirably adapted for their tender off- 
 spring .; on an examination of which, the most infidel 
 philosopher must be astonished, and be constrained to 
 acknowledge that God has manifested himself in sup- 
 plying, instead of reason, a mysterious, unerring in- 
 stinct, always sufficient for the end to be accom- 
 plished. 
 
 On the 27th, about the time in the morning men- 
 tioned by the two women, the Indian ferryman came, 
 and crossed the river in his canoe, His appearance, 
 together with that of his canoe, reminded me of 
 iEneas' ferryman, who carried him over the Stygian 
 lake. 
 
 " Canites inculta jacet ; 
 
 Sordidus ex humeris nodo dependet amictus, 
 
 Coeruleam advertit cymbam, ripseque propinquat/' 
 
 After the river, we crossed the valley of level allu- 
 vial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, 
 and the east side especially is very fertile. Here the 
 principal village of the Spokeins is located, and one of 
 their number has commenced the cultivation of a small 
 field or garden, which he has planted with potatoes, 
 peas, and beans, and some other vegetables ; all of 
 which were flourishing, and were the first I had seen 
 springing up under Indian industry west of the moun- 
 tains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley 
 to the foot of the mountain on the east, an* 3 pointed 
 out the trail we should pursue. As we wound our 
 way up the mountain, I looked down into the valley 
 
VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES. 299 
 
 we had crossed, and which stretches along the wind- 
 ing river, and drew in my imagination a picture of 
 what it will be, when this people are brought under 
 the influence of Christianity and civilization. This 
 section of country presents less appearance of volcanic 
 operation ; and in several places I found granite in its 
 natural form and position, resembling that found in the 
 Eastern States. When we had arrived at the summit 
 of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several 
 miles wide covered with yellow pine forming an open 
 forest. Over parts of this plain were scattered volca- 
 nic eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of re- 
 gular cones of various magnitudes, from those of only 
 a few feet in diameter and height, to those a hundred 
 in diameter and sixty feet high. They all had the 
 same appearance, differing only in magnitude, and 
 were composed of broken granite, in angular pieces, 
 from those that were very small to six or eight inches 
 in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as 
 if colored with rising smoke. They had more the ap- 
 pearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled 
 up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, 
 than the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause 
 but the latter can be assigned. The sandy plain 
 around them was undisturbed, and large pine trees 
 were growing about them as in other places. At the 
 south of these were large rocks of granite, and in jux- 
 taposition a basaltic dyke extending a hundred rods or 
 more. 
 
 After passing this plain we descended and came 
 again to the Spokein river, which makes a bend around 
 to the north-east. In this place the valley is less exten- 
 sive, and the mountains are more precipitous. We 
 again ascended the mountain, upon which granite 
 
300 ANXIETY OF THE SPOKEINS. 
 
 and mica slate prevail, without any volcanic appear- 
 ances. From this we descended into a rich valley, 
 which was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, 
 though but just springing up. This valley has the ap- 
 pearance of having been a lake filled up with moun- 
 tain deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from 
 which proceeds a rivulet passing out at the south- 
 west. Leaving this place, we wound around a moun- 
 tain in a northerly direction, down a valley less fertile, 
 but more extensive, and at four in the afternoon came 
 to a stream of water, coming from the mountains at 
 the east, where our guides said we must stop for the 
 night. 
 
 Near evening, several different companies of Spo- 
 kein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding full 
 speed into the place of our encampment, and turned 
 out their horses with ours in the half wood and prai- 
 rie. * The Spokeins who had seen me on my way, and 
 had learned who I was, sent information out to the va- 
 rious hunting parties, that a minister was passing 
 through their country, and as it was the first time one 
 was ever among them, they wished to see him and 
 hear what he had to say to them. They brought with 
 them a good interpreter, a young man of their nation, 
 who had been in the school at the Red river settlement 
 near lake Winnepeg, on the east side of the mountain, 
 and had obtained a very good knowledge of English. 
 We had public worship that evening in the Spokein 
 and Nez Perce languages. One of the Nez Perces, a 
 chief, who understood the Spokein language, collected 
 his people, a little to the left of the Spokeins, and 
 translated the discourse as it was delivered, into the 
 language of his people, without any interruption to the 
 service. This was a plan of their own devising. All 
 
 
MILL RIVER VALLEY. 301 
 
 the circumstances combined were to me unusually in- 
 teresting. Providences above my control had delayed 
 me three several times, and thus had given them an 
 opportunity to collect their people and overtake me. 
 Some of them had pursued my path a day and a half, 
 and were unwilling to return, being resolved to ac- 
 company me to Colvile. These benighted Indians 
 manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel that 
 others had done before them. And as a most affecting 
 proof that the impressions then made on their minds 
 were not momentary, they went home and erected in 
 their village a church, constructed of rude materials, 
 surely, but designed as they said, to furnish a place* 
 that when the next missionary should arrive, he might 
 stop and teach them.* 
 
 The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain 
 fell, but this did not prevent our early departure ; for 
 it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the 
 evening before consumed their entire stock of provi- 
 sions, and, whatever might occur, we could procure 
 no more until we should reach Colvile. We could not 
 obtain any game, for being advised by the superinten- 
 dent at Walla Walla, not to encumber ourselves with 
 rifles, we had unwisely left them behind. After tra- 
 veling a few miles in an easterly direction, we came to 
 a very fertile valley, well adapted to cultivation, ex- 
 tending north and south, at least fifty miles, and of va- 
 rious extent in width, from half a mile to two miles. 
 The valley is an open prairie, well supplied with grass, 
 
 *The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes 
 Spokane. I called them Spokans, hut they corrected my pronuncia- 
 tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I was 
 convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it should b§ 
 written Spokein, 
 
302 FORT COL VILE. 
 
 and even in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do 
 well through the whole year, without the labor of cut- 
 ting hay. The hills on each side are covered with 
 woods. As we proceeded down this valley, we came 
 to villages of Indians who understood the Spokein lan- 
 guage, but belonged to another tribe, probably to the 
 Cceur d'Alene. Near their principal village we came 
 to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had no 
 canoes and we found difficulty in getting my baggage 
 across. But the Nez Perce chief took part of it upon 
 his shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and 
 crossed and recrossed until all was upon the other side. 
 I then crossed upon a pole which was not the most de- 
 sirable method, but still it was preferable to a cold 
 bathing on horseback. After pursuing our course a 
 few miles farther, I divided my remaining stock of eat- 
 ables with my destitute French and Indian attendants, 
 anticipating our next meal at the time when, after a 
 long day's industrious travel, we should find ourselves 
 safely at Colvile. 
 
 Towards the lower part of the valley, through which 
 we were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A 
 missionary located here, would have easy access to 
 the Spokein, Sapwell, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle Falls, 
 Lake, Coeur d'Alene, and Pondera Indians. I know 
 not of so important a field within two hundred miles, 
 presenting the natural advantages of mild climate, 
 good soil, and forests. 
 
 We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, 
 after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of 
 this fort is on an elevated spot about fifty rods from 
 the river, surrounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, 
 and opening in every direction an extended prospect 
 of mountain scenery ; and half a mile below are Ket- 
 
WORSHIP AT THE FORT. 303 
 
 tie Falls, above which the river spreads out widely, 
 and moves slowly, but just above the precipice it con- 
 tracts into a narrow channel, and disappears from the 
 view of the spectator at the fort, until seen winding its 
 way among rocks below. This establishment is built 
 for defense and is well stoccaded, but so friendly have 
 the natives always been, that no wars have ever oc- 
 curred among them. It is occupied by some half do- 
 zen men with Indian families, and is well supplied with 
 the useful animals and fowls common to farming esta- 
 blishments. The winter and summer grains, together 
 with garden vegetables, are cultivated with success 
 and in profusion. This place does not suffer with 
 summer drouth, like many other parts of this country, 
 as rains are of frequent occurrence ; the seasons here 
 are not so distinctly divided, as on the lower parts of 
 the Columbia, into wet and dry. 
 
 I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDo- 
 nald, the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had 
 left a few days before with a brigade for Fort Vancou- 
 ver ; but the kindest attention was paid me by those 
 who had the charge of the • fort. I found here an old 
 man, who, more than thirty years ago, accompanied 
 Lewis and Clarke across the continent, and had for 
 several years past taken up his residence here. He is 
 in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter- 
 preter to the neighboring Indians. 
 
 On Sabbath, the 29th, the people of the fort who un- 
 derstood English, assembled, and we worshiped the 
 God of our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and 
 from different nations had collected us in a little group 
 in this region of the world. The Indians, too, came 
 about me and expressed great anxiety to be taught the 
 revealed will of God. They endeavored to make me 
 
304 JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 understand what their former traditionary belief and 
 practices had been, and to let me know, that what 
 they had learned from me was reasonable and satis- 
 factory to them, and that they wished to know all that 
 related to so important and momentous a subject. 
 But our medium of communication was inadequate to 
 a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God 
 so loved the world that he gave his only Son to die for 
 its redemption. 
 
 Wherever I have met with the natives of this dis- 
 tant region, they have invariably, with earnestness and 
 importunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the 
 hands of Christians. But how little of the faith, and 
 love, and liberality of the church is invested in the 
 most profitable of all enterprises, the conversion of the 
 world. Should some one propose the construction of 
 a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and de- 
 monstrate the practicability of the measure, and show 
 that nature has interposed no effectual barrier, and 
 that it would concentrate not only the whole internal, 
 but also the China trade, and the stock would produce 
 annually a rich dividend, how soon would Christians 
 engage in it. 
 
 Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our jour- 
 ney down the Columbia. The brigade having taken 
 all the boats from this place on their late passage to 
 Fort Vancouver, we were compelled to take horses for 
 Okanagan. I changed my guides for two others ; one 
 a Spokein, and the other a Paloose ; retaining my two 
 voyageurs. As we left Fort Colvile we had a fine 
 view of Kettle Falls. The Columbia was in its freshet, 
 and as it rolled down in a broken cataract the distance 
 of one hundred feet, it was a sublime spectacle. The 
 whole scenery as we proceded down the river was 
 

 LOCATION OF MARBLE. 305 
 
 marked by variety, wildness, and romantic grandeur, 
 as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote re- 
 gions, had consulted for her own amusement some of 
 her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains 
 around are constructed on a scale of magnificence, 
 presenting almost all the varieties of elevation, of pre- 
 cipice, and forest. This is the country, which, by 
 more than one of my predecessors in travel, has been 
 celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattle- 
 snakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetra- 
 ble by ordinary courage ; but we found no indications 
 of the presence of these animals before this evening, 
 when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once in- 
 terrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- 
 rounded. 
 
 After a few hours' ride on the morning of the 31st, 
 we re-crossed, in a canoe, the Spokein river just above 
 its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is 
 capable of supporting a much more numerous popula- 
 tion than now obtain a subsistence by hunting and fish- 
 ing. The Indians residing here afforded us, very 
 cheerfully, all the assistance we needed in ferrying the 
 river. In the neighborhood of this place I discovered 
 a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine mar- 
 ble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; 
 some sections are pure white, while others are beauti- 
 fully clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced 
 freely with sulphuric acid. This will in time become 
 very valuable, for being upon navigable waters, it can 
 be transported into various countries. Several miles 
 below this marble location, I was interested with the 
 juxtaposition of granite and basalt. It was on an ele- 
 vated piece of land one hundred and fifty feet above 
 the river. Near the river there were large quantities 
 
306 GRAND COULE. 
 
 of solid granite in its natural position, without any ap- 
 pearance of having undergone an igneous influence, 
 and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of basalt 
 rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of 
 having been thrown up by several successive volcanic 
 eruptions ; the earth on the back side gradually rising 
 to a mountain. 
 
 At this place we left the river, to save traversing a 
 great bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to 
 reach it again before night. We pursued our way 
 over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. 
 It became evident that night would overtake us before 
 we could reach the river, unless we should urge for- 
 ward with all the speed that humanity for our horses 
 would permit. Before five oclock we came near the 
 great gulf walled up with basalt, which we supposed, 
 embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our next ob- 
 ject was to find a place where we could descend to its 
 shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we 
 found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment 
 discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was 
 undoubtedly the former channel of the river. With 
 considerable difficulty we wound our way into it, and 
 found it well covered with grass, and by searching, 
 obtained a small supply of water. This quondam 
 channel of the river, is nearly a mile wide, with a level 
 bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, 
 as the river itself is in many places, with volcanic rocks, 
 two and three hundred feet perpendicular. This Coute 
 separates to the left from the present channel of the 
 Columbia, about one hundred miles Delow Colvile, and 
 is about one hundred miles in length, when it again 
 unites with the river. The volcanic appearances are 
 exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences 
 
FORT OKANAGAN. 
 
 30? 
 
 of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity 
 in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight 
 or ten feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. 
 Those who have travelled through the whole length of 
 the Coule, represent it as having the same general fea- 
 tures throughout, while the whole distance of the river 
 around to the place where it again unites, as I know 
 from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a 
 deep channel, cut through the rocks. 
 
 We left the grand Coule early on the morning of the 
 1st of June, and with difficulty ascended the western 
 bank. * Before noon my guides lost the way to Oka- 
 nagan, and wandered far out upon the wide prairie 
 where there was no water. Losing my confidence in 
 their knowledge of the country, except on some fre- 
 quented routes, I directed my course by my compass 
 to the north-west for the river ; and perceiving a snow- 
 topped mountain in the distance, I concluded the river 
 must lie between it and ourselves, and accordingly 
 made it my landmark, Pursuing this direction, a few 
 hours with rapid speed, we came to a slope which grad- 
 ually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at 
 length to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed 
 into it, and it was with difficulty we could control their 
 excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the wa- 
 ter of which continually gained accessions until it be- 
 came a large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bot- 
 tom, and united its waters with the Columbia, a few 
 miles above Fort Okanagan, the place of our desti- 
 nation. 
 
 We left our horses on the south side of the river, and 
 passed over in a canoe to Fort Okanagan, which is sit- 
 uated on the north side of the Columbia, above the con- 
 fluence of the Okanagan river, from which, and from the 
 
308 OKANAGAN INDIANS. 
 
 Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. 
 It was first built by Mr. David Stuart, a partner of the 
 American Fur Company, in 1811. There is an open 
 space of considerable extent around ; the soil is of an 
 inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but producing grass 
 to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the station. 
 A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vi- 
 cinity. The Columbia does not appear to have con- 
 tinued so long in its present channel, since leaving the 
 Grand Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bot- 
 toms, which exist in many other parts of its course. 
 After leaving the Spokein woods there is very little 
 forest to supply timber for fuel, fencing, or building. 
 They are dependent on floodwood, which descends the 
 river, for their ordinary fuel, and the freshets generally 
 furnish a large supply. Not far distant at the north 
 there are snow-topped mountains, yet the country here 
 is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an 
 opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. Their 
 personal appearance is less noble than the Spokeins, 
 but they are not less peaceable, friendly, and honest in 
 their dispositions. This is evident from the fact that 
 the charge of the Fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, 
 the superintendent, was committed temporarily to a 
 Frenchman, and several of the Indians. This tribe 
 with the Shooshaps number about two thousand per- 
 sons. They are much employed in the salmon fishery, 
 and large quantities are prepared by drying for the 
 winter's use. Their country does not abound in game, 
 and hunting occupies but little of their time. The cli- 
 mate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, 
 is very mild and salubrious. 
 
 Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired 
 two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating 
 
JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 309 
 
 a bateau which we obtained at this place ; and com- 
 mitted our horses to my Indian guides to take them 
 across the country to Walla Walla. My confidence 
 in the honesty of these men was without any suspicion, 
 and I could trust them with our six horses, saddles and 
 bridles, to go on any enterprise within their capacity 
 to accomplish. They have so much self-respect, that 
 they would not on any account commit a crime, which 
 would expel them from their people, induce them to 
 seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free- 
 men. 
 
 We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voy- 
 age of four hundred miles, with the river in full freshet ; 
 and its strong current increased by high water, secured 
 to us a velocity beyond the ordinary. We passed 
 several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, 
 where the least mismanagement would have caused 
 inevitable submersion without any prospect of escape. 
 But my voyageurs showed by their adroitness at the 
 oar, that they were upon their favorite element, and 
 their gayety and songs began to revive, on being re- 
 lieved from the rough, and to them unpleasant journey 
 on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through 
 forests. The elasticity of their native character was 
 almost immediately apparent, and we glided on with 
 celerity, making a voyage of one hundred miles before 
 it was necessary to seek our safety for the night on 
 shore. The country through which we passed to-day 
 was rather mountainous. I saw many locations of 
 granite in its natural state, but as we proceeded, vol- 
 canic operations began to appear, and the granite ex- 
 hibited the effects of intense heat, until it wholly disap- 
 peared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and lava took 
 
310 LONG RAPIDS. 
 
 its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpendicular 
 section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ; half 
 way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considera- 
 ble magnitude is suspended. It appears to be retained 
 in its place by having its roots inserted in the crevices 
 of the rocks, between the layers of different eruptions. 
 How it procured its elevated situation is quite a mys- 
 tery. It. could not have vegetated there, unless at the 
 time of its growth, it was supported by a surface upon 
 which to rise ; and taking the present condition of the 
 rocks, it could not be deposited there by any floods of 
 the river, and certainly it could not in such case, inter- 
 twine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gentle- 
 men of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who nav- 
 igate this river, have amused themselves by shooting 
 off pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was 
 wholly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening 
 was a few miles above the Long Rapids, which extend 
 nine miles. 
 
 On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about 
 fifty miles above Walla Walla they presented the ap- 
 pearance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of 
 wind, and their distant murmur broke upon the stillness 
 of the morning. To pass them without fear, is an un- 
 dertaking which requires courage and self possession ; 
 but knowing that these inland navigators are experi- 
 enced in all the dangers of boating excursions, I had but 
 little drawback upon the pleasure I anticipated in a 
 swift descent over them. With much care and exertion 
 ofmymenwe safely outrode them, a distance of nine 
 miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cas- 
 cades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying 
 scenery of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that 
 
INDIANS CATCHING SALMON. 311 
 
 keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost 
 perpetually some new emotions and energies, while 
 performing a voyage of several hundred miles in open 
 bateaux orlight canoes. Not unfrequently in the still- 
 ness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more 
 placid features, such a sense of security is enjoyed, that 
 a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of 
 time, is pleasant. 
 
 My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid as- 
 pect of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should 
 have a strong wind from that quarter. Their prognos- 
 tication was soon realized. The gale did not last long, 
 and the only remarkable feature was, that when it sub- 
 sided, it was almost instantaneously. 
 
 Through the distance of about one hundred miles, 
 which we passed to-day, the country is level and desti- 
 tute of wood. I observed a bank of clay in layers 
 of diversified structure, such as I have often noticed. 
 The different sections were of various colors ; some 
 dusky red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, 
 making an upright elevation of one hundred feet or 
 more. 
 
 Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, 
 and groups of Indians are scattered along pursuing the 
 employment of catching them. Wherever we passed 
 them, they came off in their canoes, bringing salmon 
 to sell, some of which were roasted in the best manner, 
 and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered 
 a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often 
 large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the 
 bark. Upon these we dined, without bread, vegeta- 
 bles, or salt. My voyageurs found sufficient employ- 
 ment in the gratification of their appetites, to interrupt 
 
312 ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA. 
 
 for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at 
 Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter 
 from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompa- 
 nied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. 
 Such storms are of rare occurrence west of the moun- 
 tains. 
 
SNAKE INDIANS. 313 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 A summary of the Indians of the Upper country — nanies of the tribes, 
 their locations, and numbers — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver 
 — swift passage down the river — run the Falls — Cascades — dangerous 
 eddy— arrive at Vancouver — Steamboat excursion. 
 
 Having traveled over the most important parts of 
 the upper country, and collected the facts of its physi- 
 cal condition, together with the location, character, 
 and condition of the most numerous tribes of Indians ; 
 before leaving this section of the territory west of the 
 Rocky Mountains, it may be proper to give a con- 
 nected summary of these particulars. On the south 
 part of the Oregon Territory, adjoining Upper Cali- 
 fornia, are located the Shoshones or Snake Indians. I 
 was not able to gain knowledge of their definite num- 
 bers, but the general estimate is that they are more 
 than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the 
 most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being 
 covered with scoria and other volcanic productions. 
 These Indians are poor, and as indicative of their condi- 
 tion and their resources, they are called Snake Indians, 
 and Root diggers. Some of them go to the mountains 
 and hunt buffalo, and they very generally resort to the 
 river in the season of fishing. They have a tolerable 
 supply of horses. When they go to Rendezvous they 
 make a great display, advancing on horseback, dressed 
 in their most fantastic manner, exhibiting all their or- 
 naments of feathers, beads, wolf-tails, teeth and claws 
 of animals, arranged according to their notions of good 
 H 
 
314 INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 
 
 taste. The warriors are armed, hideously painted, 
 and those who have been wounded in battle are very 
 fond of showing their sears. After coursing around 
 and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, 
 they dismount and go through the ceremony of sha- 
 king hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many 
 of these and the Utaws at Rendezvous-. The country 
 of the Utaws is situated to the east and south-east of 
 the Shoshones, about the Salt Lake and on the head 
 waters of the Colorado river, which empties into the 
 gulf of California. They number nearly four thou- 
 sand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable 
 people, honest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and 
 affectionate among themselves. They live by hunt- 
 ing, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their 
 dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. 
 Their country being in latitude about 41°, has a fine 
 climate and good soil. 
 
 Proceeding north, we come to the country of th8 
 Nez Perces, which has many fertile parts adapted to 
 tillage, and is throughout a fine grazing country. They 
 number about two thousand five hundred ; but they 
 have already been often mentioned. 
 
 The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez 
 Perces, and very much resemble them in person, dress, 
 habits, and morals. They are equally peaceable, hon- 
 est, and hospitable to strangers. They number more 
 than two thousand persons. Their wealth consists in 
 horses, which are unusually fine and numerous ; it be- 
 ing no uncommon thing for one man to own several 
 hundred. Their country, especially that about the 
 Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spon- 
 taneously cammas in great abundance, upon which, 
 with fish and some game, they principally subsist. 
 
INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 315 
 
 They express the same anxiety to be instructed as the 
 Nez Perces and Flatheads. 
 
 The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about 
 the river of the same name, and range some distance 
 below, along the Columbia river. The number of per- 
 sons in this tribe is about five hundred. In their cha- 
 racter, employments, and moral habits, they do not 
 materially differ from the last named tribes. 
 
 The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez 
 Perces, and in all respects are like them. Their resi- 
 dence is along the Nez Perce river and up the Pa- 
 vilion. They number about three hundred. The four 
 last named tribes speak the same language with a little 
 dialectical difference. 
 
 North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. 
 They number about eight hundred persons, besides 
 some small tribes adjoining them who might be counted 
 a part of their nation. I have so fully described them 
 that it is unnecessary to enlarge upon their character. 
 Their country is much diversified with mountains and 
 valleys, prairie and woods, and a large part is of pri- 
 mitive formation, and some parts are very fertile. 
 They denominate themselves the children of the sun, 
 which in their language is Spokein. Their main de- 
 pendence for subsistence is upon fishing and hunting, 
 together with gathering roots and berries. I have 
 stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, 
 which it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so 
 that their present precarious mode of living may give 
 place to that which will be substantial. They have 
 many horses, but not so numerous as their neighbors 
 farther south. East of these are the Cceur d'Alene In- 
 dians, whose numbers are about seven hundred, and 
 who are characterized by civility, honesty, and kind- 
 
316 INDIANS A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE. 
 
 ness. Their country is more open than that of the 
 Spokeins, and equally, if not better adapted to agri- 
 culture. 
 
 The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and 
 south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. 
 They are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their 
 persons, noble, frank, and generous in their disposi- 
 tions, and have always shown a firm attachment to 
 white men. They number about eight hundred per- 
 sons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence they 
 follow the buffalo upon the head waters of Clarke and 
 Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head waters 
 of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe by 
 constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though they 
 themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition. 
 Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their 
 lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts 
 of civilization, and in Christianity. 
 
 Their country is mountainous, but intersected with 
 pleasant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are 
 prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the valleys 
 the climate is mild. 
 
 An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, 
 which illustrates their native character, and the pro- 
 pensity of Indians to imitation. He said the first white 
 man he saw was when he was young. It was sum- 
 mer. He said, " these are a new people, they look 
 cold, their faces are white and red ; go make a large 
 fire, and I will ask them to come and warm them.'* 
 In a short time his people had made a fire, and brought 
 new buffalo robes. The white men came into his 
 lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes and seated 
 them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes 
 slipped off; he replaced them. Soon the white men 
 
INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 317 
 
 made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought 
 they asked for food, and brought them meat. The 
 white men gave him the pipe, and he and his people 
 smoked, " and after this they loved smoke, and they 
 loved the white men, and said they were good." 
 
 The Ponderas are so like the Flatheads in person, 
 manners, and character, that a particular description 
 of them may be passed over. They number about 
 two thousand two hundred, and live on the north of 
 Clarke's river, and on a lake which takes its name from 
 the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and 
 would soon be put under cultivation, if they could ob- 
 tain instructors to teach them agriculture, and to im- 
 part to them a knowledge of those things which 
 are necessary to constitute a happy and prosperous 
 community. Their language is the same as the Spo- 
 keins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a sec- 
 tion of country to the north of the Ponderas, along 
 M'Gillivray's river, and are represented as an uncom- 
 monly interesting people. They speak a language 
 distinct from all the tribes about them, open and sono- 
 rous, and free from gutterals, which are common in 
 the language of the surrounding tribes. They are 
 neat in their persons and lodges, candid and honest, 
 and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their 
 numbers, but probably they are not over a thousand. 
 
 There are several other tribes of Indians, whose 
 countries are situated upon the waters of the north- 
 east branch of the Columbia river, resembling each 
 other so nearly in their customs, morals, manners, and 
 mode of living, that it is unnecessary to go into a sepa- 
 rate and particular description of each. I will men- 
 tion the names, locations, and number of some of the 
 principal tribes. North of the Cootanies are the Car- 
 
318 DESCEND THE KIVER. 
 
 riers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand. 
 South of these are the Lake Indians so named from 
 their place of residence, which is about the Arrow 
 Lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At 
 the south, and about Colvile, are the Kettle Falls In- 
 dians, who number five hundred and sixty. West of 
 these are the Sinpauelish, one thousand in number ; 
 and below these are the Shooshaps, having a popula- 
 tion of five hundred and seventy-five. At the west 
 and north-west, next in order are the Okanagans, 
 numbering one thousand and fifty. To the north and 
 west are several tribes, about whom I obtained no de- 
 finite information. Between Okanagan and the Long 
 Rapids are detachments of Indians, who appear poor, 
 and wanting in that manly and active spirit which cha- 
 racterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long 
 Rapids, to the confluence of Lewis' river with the Co- 
 lumbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active people, 
 numbering about seven hundred. The whole number 
 of the above named Indians, is thirty-two thousand five 
 hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low esti- 
 mate, as in the number, the Falls and La Dalles In- 
 dians are not included, nor many other numerous tribes 
 residing at the north and south of the Falls of the Co- 
 lumbia, whose numbers I could not with certainty as- 
 certain. We might more than double this number, and 
 probably still come below the population of the upper 
 country. 
 
 The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, 
 came in safely, as I expected. After resting on the 
 Sabbath, we renewed, on Monday, the 6th, our voy- 
 age down the river, having Fort Vancouver for our 
 next destination. We exchanged the bateau for a 
 large canoe? retaining the men who attended me from 
 
HUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA. 319 
 
 Okanagan. Assisted by the high water, we made rapid 
 progress until three in the afternoon, when a strong 
 head wind compelled us to take to the land for the 
 remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. 
 The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly man- 
 ner, offering us salmon, and asking for tobacco, which 
 they esteem more highly than either gold or silver. 
 They have been accustomed to traffic in this commo- 
 dity, until they expect it of every passing traveler. 
 
 The morning of the 7th of June was more calm, and 
 we got under way at an early hour, but with the ri- 
 sing day the wind again increased to such a degree, 
 that we were obliged to suspend our vo3^age. After a 
 strenuous endeavor to effect a landing on the north, 
 we were at length, without the power of controlling 
 our canoe, and in much danger, driven across to the 
 opposite shore, where we succeeded in landing, and 
 here for the first time in all my travels., I found it im- 
 possible to pitch my tent, such being the strength of 
 the wind, that it would have been carried away. 
 The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrapping 
 myself in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me down 
 in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as 
 at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit 
 from the neighboring Indians. 
 
 The following day we were able at an early hour to 
 resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which in 
 the tempest of yesterday looked so forbidding. A lit- 
 tle caution on the part of my experienced Frenchman 
 in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled 
 us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short 
 time we approached the falls of the Columbia, which, 
 in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, followed 
 by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, 
 
320 RUN THE FALLS. 
 
 proposed to run the falls, saying that there was no 
 danger in full freshet, and that it would save a por- 
 tage. We were then passing a section of the river 
 where the banks were walled up with baealt ; and while 
 I was revolving in my mind the chances of safety, I 
 concluded, that when we should come to the great ba- 
 sin above the falls, I would be set on shore ; but when 
 we came to the basin, the water of the river, rushing 
 from the mural shores, formed impassable breakers on 
 the right and on the left, and onward we must go, let 
 consequences be what they would. We kept near the 
 middle of the river, which was free from breakers, 
 though not from high surges. Soon, with amazing ve- 
 locity, we were over the cataract of the mighty waters, 
 and made our way into a bay at the head of the first 
 portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water 
 from these stupendous mountains above, was so great, 
 that the narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with 
 basaltic islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, 
 that the falls were almost lost in the depth. 
 
 Such were the eddies and surging of the water 
 among the rocky islands in the narrow broken chan- 
 nel of the La Dalles, that we had to make three porta- 
 ges. Our canoe was so large that twenty Indians 
 were not too many to carry it safely. Their mode of 
 carrying is to invert it upon their heads and shoulders, 
 and then it is with difficulty and* danger that they pass 
 the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the 
 last portage, the Indians were not willing to take hold 
 again unless we would pay them in powder and balls ; 
 and although their demands were reasonable, yet my 
 stores were not adequate to meet them, and they 
 would not perform the labor without the required ar- 
 ticles. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential 
 
DANGEROUS WHIRLPOOL. 321 
 
 chief, to induce their men to perform the labor of ma- 
 king this last portage, and promised that I would send 
 them the demand from Fort Vancouver, and for their 
 security I would give them a talking paper. They 
 stated to their people my proposal, and were about to 
 succeed, when Tilki, the first chief, who had become 
 familiar with an American trader, laughed at their 
 credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, 
 that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me 
 teach the Indians good things, and did not believe I 
 would deceive them. He prevailed, and the men took 
 hold of the work ; and in four hours from passing the 
 falls we were beyond the raging water, where we 
 made our morning repast upon very fine salmon. 
 
 Our voyage during the remainder of the day was 
 pleasant ; we passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and 
 landed for the night twelve miles above the Cascades. 
 In this high state of the water, very few of the trees of 
 the submerged forest were to be seen. 
 
 On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades 
 by hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, ex- 
 clusive of one short portage, the distance of two miles 
 to the great basin, or rather the great whirlpool be- 
 low. This labor is attended with some danger, and 
 cases, though not numerous, have occurred of the loss 
 of lives and property. As I walked along the shores, 
 and over precipices, I saw the wrecks of several ca- 
 noes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We em- 
 barked upon the great basin, at the lower part of 
 which we passed into a rapid, where the main current 
 took a diagonal course from the north towards the 
 south shore. On both sides of this current there were 
 heavy breakers, and as the only course of safety, we 
 took the middle. We had not proceeded far before a 
 14** 
 
322 A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 
 
 large whirlpool, with a deep devouring vortex, formed 
 almost directly before us, and as we were going for- 
 ward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its cir- 
 cling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to 
 the right. "O don't speak here," was his reply. As 
 we approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of 
 smaller eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its 
 waters rolling out from the centre, and all our strength 
 was required to resist them, lest we should be thrown 
 upon the breakers. We passed with the rapidity of 
 the wind, and in a short time were upon the smooth 
 surface of the tide waters below. 
 
 The sensations excited in descending these Cascades 
 are of that peculiar character, which are best under- 
 stood by experience. The sensation of fear is no 
 sooner awakened than it subsides before the power and 
 magnificence of the rolling surges, the circling vorti- 
 ces, and the roaring breakers. Let those whose dor- 
 mant energies, either of body or mind, need arousing, 
 try the navigation of the Columbia in high water, and 
 their powers will be invigorated for almost any future 
 enterprise. Such is the fascinating power, I had al- 
 most said magic of these scenes, that those who are 
 accustomed to be employed upon these waters, though 
 far away from home and kindred, become attached 
 to this mode of life, and are reluctant to abandon it for 
 any other. Each time the scenery of these interesting 
 Cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold themselves* 
 Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall of one 
 hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison with 
 the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are 
 these things created merely to attract our momentary 
 admiration. Science in very many of its departments, 
 may find subjects for investigation. 
 
A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 323 
 
 While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the 
 forests, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them 
 with his eye, as they dart from bough to bough ; he 
 regards with admiration the noble and majestic White 
 headed eagle, as he takes his favorite perch upon the 
 loftiest heights of some needle-pointed rock, or the 
 summit of some leafless tree, or as he darts from thence 
 upon his prey ; or his attention may be arrested by the 
 daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent upon the finny 
 tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in my view. 
 A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magnitude, that 
 the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the splash- 
 ing water indicated, which should exchange its native 
 element. The resistence was so great that a disen- 
 gagement was deemed the best policy. 
 
 Here also the botanist, while he forbears to ascend 
 the lofty mountains, which for him present an aspect 
 of too much dreariness, may retire into the narrow re- 
 ceding valleys, or wind his way over sunny hills in 
 search of new genera of plants, or at least new species, 
 with which to immortalize his name, and add to the 
 stores of his favorite science. 
 
 The geologist, while he admires the stupendous 
 monuments of volcanic operations before him, may also 
 find much to interest him in examining more minute 
 formations. Along the rugged shores are scattered 
 specimens of calcedony, jasper, agate, and cornelian. 
 He may examine the cellules of the immense masses 
 of amygdaloid ; the columnar basalt and the moun- 
 tains shooting up their denticulated forms and nee- 
 dle-points. His attention will be drawn to the ex- 
 amination of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and he 
 will be interested in finding many dendrolites. When 
 he looks at the deep channel through which the Colum- 
 
324 ARRIVAL AT THE FORT. 
 
 bia river finds its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if 
 he doubts the agency of God in forming the courses of 
 the rivers, he may indulge his imagination in computing 
 how long it has taken this river to wear down the im- 
 mensely hard basalt a thousand feet ; and having as- 
 certained how long it takes to wear any given 
 depth, he may then make his mathematical conclu- 
 sions how long the process has been going on. But if 
 he is a Christian philosopher, while he admits second 
 causes, he may look up to the first great Cause, and 
 admire and adore ; and not regarding baseless theories, 
 may exclaim, " How wonderful are thy works, in wis/- 
 dom hast thou made them all.'* 
 
 As we passed out of the mountain country about the 
 Cascades, we found the wide valley below so inunda- 
 ted, as to present the appearance of an inland sea. I 
 arrived safely at the fort, found my friends well, and 
 exchanged cordial congratulations. 
 
 Sabbath, June 12th, I preached to the people of the 
 fort, and in the evening had a third service, in which 
 as heretofore, an opportunity was given to those 
 present, to propose questions on any subject of reli- 
 gion about which they wished information. I was par- 
 ticularly gratified to find, that during my absence, 
 public worship had been maintained, and an effort had 
 been made to bring the French Canadians to attend 
 upon religious instruction. They are assembled twice 
 on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser- 
 mon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin. 
 
 I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sope- 
 lay the promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a 
 gentleman of the Company, who in a few 'days was to 
 leave Vancouver for his station north of Fort Okana- 
 gan. 
 
NAVIGABLE WATERS. 325 
 
 On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam 
 boat Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the 
 confluence of the western branch of the Multnomah ; 
 up this river into the Willamette, and then into the 
 middle branch of the Multnomah, and through it into 
 the Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands 
 were overflowed with the annual freshet, and presented 
 the appearance of an immense bay, extending far into 
 the country. The day was pleasant and our company 
 cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the Co- 
 lumbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections 
 upon the probable changes which would take place in 
 these remote regions, in a very few years. It wag 
 wholly an unthought of thing when I first contemplated 
 this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner 
 of commerce and business. The gayety which pre- 
 vailed was often suspended, while we conversed of 
 coming days, when with civilized men, all the rapid 
 improvements in the arts of life, should be introduced 
 over this new world, and when cities and villages shall 
 spring up on the west, as they are springing up on 
 the east of the great mountains, and a new empire 
 shall be added to the kingdoms of the earth. 
 
 The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the 
 Oregon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but 
 one hundred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it 
 is the only one which affords a harbor for large ships 
 on the coast, from California to the 49° of north lati- 
 tude. For bateaux and various other light craft, the 
 Columbia and its branches are navigable a thousand 
 miles. The internal navigation could not be much im- 
 proved, unless at great expense, by canals around the 
 rapids and falls, which are so numerous that ascending 
 the river is now difficult. Still a considerable interior 
 
326 NAVIGABLE WATERS. 
 
 trade is carried on by means of these waters, and the 
 ingenuity of men on the west, when it shall be more 
 extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on 
 the east, for greatly improving the intercourse of re- 
 mote and different portions of this territory. 
 
GEOLOGY. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 Having remarked on the features of the country 
 through which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now 
 give a more connected and summary view of facts, 
 the result of my observations in relation to the geology 
 of that hitherto unexplored region. la what I have to 
 say, however, on the observed facts, it cannot be ex- 
 pected that I should be able to give a complete view 
 of the geology of so extensive a territory ; it being 
 greater than the whole of the United States east of the 
 Allegany Mountains.. The complexity, too, must be 
 considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting 
 from long continued igneous action, where both an- 
 cient and comparatively recent products are so blen- 
 ded, that time and much experience alone can resolve 
 appearances at first view inexplicable. For perhaps 
 no country of the whole globe presents bolder and 
 more striking changes, than that of Oregon, and 
 the difficulties are, that they are so many, so great, 
 and so sudden. Let the reader also add to this the 
 circumstances under which the author was compelled 
 to note the data of his conclusions. He regrets that 
 in his brief stay in a country, where many years are 
 requisite fully to investigate all its interesting pheno- 
 mena, and in a field so rich, he could make but few 
 measurements, and only judge in most cases by ap- 
 proximate modes. As to the strict scientific accuracy 
 
330 GEOLOGY. 
 
 of his statements, he deems it no more than just to say, 
 that while he doubts not that the facts he details are 
 worthy the attention of scientific men, and are correct 
 in re, so that perfect reliance may be placed on them, 
 yet he feels himself to have wanted that almost intu- 
 itive knowledge, which he alone possesses who has 
 long been a field laborer. 
 
 With these considerations the author presents the 
 result of his observations, hoping the reader may find 
 much that is valuable respecting these regions of the 
 setting sun, replete as they are with interest, arising 
 from grandeur both of scenery, and of develope- 
 ments of the modes and effects of the operations of the 
 great geological agents ; especially of that element, 
 which in time past has wrought such changes, and is 
 yet gradually and more unperceivedly producing 
 them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, 
 and then quietly left this spot with so few superim- 
 posed materials, that well developed phenomena may 
 be leisurly examined. 
 
 My design is first to give a general view of the rocks 
 of Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of re- 
 marks or descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue 
 of minerals found in this territory. 
 
 Commencing far east on well explored geological 
 ground, it is known, that near the line dividing the 
 New England States from the Middle States, in a 
 westward direction, we enter upon the great deposite 
 of silurean, and other secondary rocks. To the fer- 
 tilizing strata of these rocks, the best part of New 
 York, and the vast garden of the western prairies, owe 
 their richness and luxuriance. Passing still farther 
 westward to regions less explored by the scientific 
 

 GEOLOGY. 331 
 
 world, after leaving the great secondary valley of the 
 Mississippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of 
 lesser mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the 
 geologist begins to find rocks of the Carboniferous 
 Group, obscurely manifest beneath the deep soil, and 
 anthracite coal in loose fragments on the banks of 
 streams running into the Platte. Among and beyond 
 the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata are clearly 
 seen, the coal "cropping out" and presenting precisely 
 the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in Penn- 
 sylvania, when I saw them before they were worked. 
 Here, for several days, we rode over rocks, inter- 
 spersed now and then with anthracite, and having 
 marks of the presence of iron, as is usual in regular 
 coal deposits. 
 
 Passing this, the geologist next reaches another 
 group either the upper secondary, or more recent 
 rocks, lying at the .foot of the Rocky Mountains. I 
 was inclined to believe, from the fact that I was appa- 
 rently geologically rising, as well as really ascending 
 above the level of the ocean, that they were the lat- 
 ter. Red Shale, and sandstone, I found in what are 
 termed the Red Butes. Perhaps this is New Red 
 Sandstone. 
 
 Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a con- 
 tinuation of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite 
 becomes abundant, and other primary rocks, extend- 
 ing to an unknown distance north and south, and more 
 than a hundred miles east and west. This section, 
 mostly covered with perpetual snow, affords am- 
 ple space for the study of glacial geological action, 
 a subject now eliciting much attention. The valley 
 through which we passed, remarkably indicates the 
 overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy 
 
332 GEOLOGY. 
 
 pass, where no serious obstacle presents itself to the 
 construction of a rail-road. This and other valleys 
 would undoubtedly, with facilities for observation, 
 give equal opportunities to discover the formation of 
 this vast chain, as has been done in regard to the great 
 rocky ranges of the Eastern Continent. 
 
 Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky 
 Mountains, there is found immediately at their base 
 Secondary Rocks ; but as we are approaching the 
 borders of one of the great volcanic furnaces of the 
 world, they are much broken and tilted up, presenting 
 some singular phenomena, which I have mentioned in 
 the journal, such as the formation of narrow ridges with 
 the strata at different angles. In some places these 
 dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in size and distance, 
 as though cracked by an upheaving force, and the fis- 
 sures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other places 
 existing in wedge-form masses, interspersed between 
 other rocks and having other varieties of dislocation. 
 The lithological character of the tract over which we 
 rode for two days, corresponds with that of the new 
 red sandstone of the valley of the Connecticut. There 
 are deposits both of the red and slaty colored strata — « 
 and their depth seems to be quite great, as is evinced 
 by bluffs. But, as I observed no organic remains, my 
 inclination to believe that these rocks are the new red 
 sandstone, is founded only on their mineral character, 
 and the fact, a very important one, that they appear 
 directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to lie im- 
 mediately above them. Should these rocks which are 
 quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds 
 no little to the interest of the geology of a country so 
 rich in other respects. Perhaps as red rocks of the 
 same kind lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it 
 
GEOLOGY. 333 
 
 may be proved hereafter, that the range was elevated 
 through a deposit of shale or new red sandstone. 
 
 Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and pass- 
 ing a belt of volcanic operations, which also are found 
 among the red and slaty rocks just described, (as will 
 be seen by reference to the Trois Tetons, the Butes, 
 and other conical mountains, as exhibited on the map,) 
 Saliferous Rocks are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chlo- 
 ride of Sodium ; and red, green, brown, and white 
 strata of indurated marl, agreeing in character with 
 the geological features of the Bochnia and Wieliezka 
 mines of Poland. These rocks also occupy quite a 
 tract of country, as we were several days in passing 
 them, and they seemed to reach both north and south 
 of the locality of rock salt, as is proved by the exis- 
 tence of the great Salt Lake at the south ; and tra- 
 velers assert that native rock salt is found to the north, 
 and especially far to the south, near the Rocky Moun- 
 tain range. # 
 
 We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it 
 a vast amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where are 
 exhibited in unexcelled magnificence, variety and dis- 
 tinctness, the productions of several periods. 
 
 The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new 
 red sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs 
 to the same period as that of other countries. 
 
 The Columnar Basalt, corresponding, as it does, 
 with other similar eruptions in the eastern world, 
 is probably cotemporaneous with them. The same 
 identity of time may be traced in regard to the tra- 
 chyte, obsidian, clinkstone or phonolite, and other 
 
 *See Ures' Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers' Report to the 
 British Geological Association, 
 
334 GEOLOGY. 
 
 products, after allowing for difference of circumstances 
 of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration. Recent 
 eruptions have also taken place. 
 
 The traces of igneous action, commencing near the 
 Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in 
 the secondary rocks, are evinced by the disturbed state 
 of these rocks, as already described, and grow more 
 and more evident, until almost the whole region exhi- 
 bits volcanic products. In other places, the Primary 
 of the Rocky Mountains, or mountains west of this 
 range, first begins to be cracked and injected with 
 dykes, then farther west terminates in the vast volcanic 
 fields of upper and lower Oregon. 
 
 It is vain to attempt fully to describe the volcanic 
 operations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, 
 the cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic con- 
 glomerate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated 
 lava, every where abound, together with other less fre- 
 quent productions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitchstone, 
 and minerals found in the cavities of amygdaloid. The 
 tops of hills and mountains are sometimes spread 
 out into horizontal plains ; others terminate in conical 
 peaks, or are rounded like domes. Escarpments are 
 frequently presented like that in the plate heading this 
 chapter. Regular craters, presenting themselves in 
 the forms of cones, concaves, and concave depress- 
 ions, are often found in plains, or capping the summits of 
 mountains ; most of them, however, are more or less ob- 
 scured by the lapse of time, but still as marked as the 
 extinct craters of the Sandwich Islands. The marked 
 volcanic agency, manifesting itself in these and similar 
 products, and completely occupying most of the coun- 
 try which we have termed upper and lower Oregon, 
 continues to be evident until lost in the waters of the 
 

 GEOLOGY. 335 
 
 Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks seem again 
 to be found on the western coast. Queen Charlotte's 
 Island, on the north, is, at least in part, primary. Pri- 
 mary rocks rise in various parts of the country, and are 
 like islands in the vast volcanic field. Such are the 
 Salmon river mountains, and the granite and carbonate 
 of lime near the Spokein river and other places. Near 
 the mouth of the Columbia, I noticed a few Tertiary 
 rocks, lying in situ, and obtained a few shells belonging 
 to this deposit. Whether there is on the North-west 
 Coast a regular Tertiary basin, partly on shore, and the 
 remainder under the ocean, remains to be determined. 
 We have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we 
 pass westward. In relation to their extent in a north- 
 erly and southerly direction, I am unable to say much. 
 There is evidence that igneous action has extended 
 from Queen Charlotte's Island to California. I have 
 already remarked on the extent of the Saliferous rocks. 
 That they extend from north of the locality where I 
 found native salt, south into Mexico, appears quite cer- 
 tain. 
 
 Having remarked thus much in general terms, I will 
 proceed to give a few facts without much order, some, 
 if not all of which, might have been included in my 
 description of the great changes in the rocks. 
 
 The plate at the head of this chapter demands a 
 more definite explanation than has been given in for- 
 mer editions. It substantially represents frequent es- 
 carpments of volcanic rocks, such as are found in 
 nearly every part of Oregon. 
 
 The place designed to be represented by it, is below 
 the junction of the Coos-coots-ke with the Lewis river. 
 With some variations, it is applicable to a mural es- 
 
336 GEOLOGY. 
 
 carpment several miles below the Cascades, on the Co- 
 lumbia. Similar mural escarpments are found in the 
 Spokein country, and at the Grand Coule, or ancient 
 bed of the Columbia. The needle-points in the right 
 of the plate, are found most distinctly marked about 
 and just below the Cascades, though they occur at nu- 
 merous other places. Indeed, this is not an unfrequent 
 form of basalt west of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 The first strata marked in the plate, above what is 
 intended for the shore of the river, is irregular massive 
 amygdaloid. In some localities similar to that from 
 which the plate is taken, there is found a conglome- 
 rate underlaying this strata. The next, or second 
 strata of the plate, is volcanic breccia or conglomerate, 
 composed of detritus, and angular fragments mixed 
 with earthy matter, and is perhaps what some call vol- 
 canic tufa. This brecciated layer is more or less hard 
 and compact, varying however very much in different 
 localities, and is in all cases only a few feet thick. 
 The third strata is columnar basalt, regularly crystal- 
 ized in pentagons about two feet in diameter. In other 
 places they vary in size from one to four or more feet 
 in diameter. It is, in all the localities where I noticed 
 it, closely jointed, with the convex surface upwards, 
 like the basalt of the Giant's Causeway. The fourth is 
 a brecciated layer. The fifth on the left, is columnar 
 basalt, and on the" right, amygdaloid in juxtaposition 
 with the basalt. The sixth is a brecciated la$lr. 
 The seventh and uppermost is a semi-crystalized ba- 
 salt on the left, and the needle-pointed basalt on the 
 right. The semi-crystalized basalt very nearly re- 
 sembles the Palisades on the Hudson River, and the 
 greenstone of East and West Rocks at New Haven t 
 and the more distinct crvstals found in Mt. Tom and 
 
GEOLOGY. 337 
 
 Mt. Holyoke. For the latter see Hitchcock's Geo. 1st 
 ed. page 73. 
 
 In a description of bluffs and banks of rivers, where 
 there are mural escarpments similar to that from 
 which the plate is taken, I have numbered from ten 
 to twenty strata of amygdaloid, basalt, and breeci- 
 ated layers, which appear to have been thrown up in 
 different periods, through craters, fissures or chasms, 
 rising in succession one above another. In some lo- 
 cations the lowest formation is pudding stone ; on this 
 amygdaloid, varying in thickness from a few feet to 
 twenty or thirty ; and then above this a stratum of an- 
 gular fragments of basalt and amygdaloid, frequently 
 intermixed with lava, which I have termed the brec- 
 ciated layer. This strata generally appears to have 
 been exposed for a period to atmospheric agencies, 
 until in some degree decomposed, and upon this the 
 alternating strata as described above, indicating so 
 many different eruptions ; the whole series rising from 
 fifty to several hundred feet. The brecciated layers 
 are only a few feet in depth, and appear to have been 
 for a long period the surface, after which a new erup- 
 tion has again overspread the whole. In one section 
 of the high walls of the Grand Coule, far up the sides, 
 instead of the breccia is presented a depth of yellow 
 earth of six or eight feet, and above this several strata 
 of basalt and amygdaloid, as above described, in like 
 manner exhibiting proof that this section for a time 
 constituted the surface. Thus it appears that the in- 
 ternal fires have had intervals of repose, and then have 
 again sent forth their volcanic substances. The pro- 
 bability is, that they were thus in operation for centu- 
 ries, but with a few exceptions, have ceased for cen- 
 turies past, so that time has been given for atmospheric 
 15 
 
338 GEOLOGY. 
 
 agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, suf- 
 ficiently to form a soil covering most parts of the 
 country. The inquiry naturally arises, whether it may 
 not be in part on account of the great internal fires of 
 this country, that the temperature is so much warmer 
 on the west side of the mountains than on the east ; 
 for it is an interesting fact, that the eastern side of 
 North America, in given parallels of latitude, is the 
 coldest, while tho western in the same parallels, is the 
 warmest part of the world. And may not this arise, 
 in part at least, from the comparative recency, as well 
 as extent and depth of the volcanic operations, which 
 have pervaded this whole region?* The length of 
 time, during which immense masses of lava and other 
 volcanic matter retain heat, is well known, and needs 
 no remark. 
 
 Among other localities of columnar basalt, the col- 
 umns of which are regular crystalized pentagons, a 
 distinguished one is on the high lands dividing the wa- 
 ters of the Snake and Spokein rivers. The formations 
 of this locality have many interesting characteristics, 
 as described on page 294. Another below the Cas- 
 cades of the Columbia, where the regular pentagonal 
 columns wall up the north side for the distance of half 
 a mile. Here are also found all the varieties of volca- 
 nic productions ; — volcanic peaks, as diversified in 
 their forms as they are numerous, being conical, den- 
 ticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes, 
 and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen 
 
 * By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen, 
 from observations taken between the 45th and 46th degrees of north 
 latitude, that in the winter of 1335-6, the greatest cold was but 10° 
 below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only — and during 
 the month of March, there were but two mornings in which there was 
 aDy frost. 
 
GEOLOGY. 339 
 
 hundred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the 
 south side of the river. There are also numerous 
 islands of basalt in the Columbia river and its branches, 
 elevated often much above high freshet water. These 
 are numerous in the La Dalles, and in the ancient bed 
 of the Columbia, or Grand Coule. These Islands are 
 the same in form and substance as the dykes which ex- 
 ist in various parts of the country. There is some- 
 thing similar to these Needles in what I have termed 
 the Pillars, where one or two such needles occur alone, 
 and rise some hundred feet. They are basalt, and so 
 hard and comparatively smooth, that I can account in 
 no other way for their production, than that they are 
 dykes, which have been injected into soft rock, or soil, 
 which has since been removed by other agencies. 
 The most remarkable instance of this is the Pillar 
 Rock at the lower part of the rapids, below the Cas- 
 cades, at the head of the tide water of the Columbia. 
 It is about five hundred feet high ; and is perpendicu- 
 lar on the river side, and nearly so on the other sides ; 
 and is wholly isolated upon a narrow strip of bottom 
 land, with a small base, and its appearance resembles 
 a vast monument. Another such needle is found in 
 the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and stand- 
 ing alone it makes a very conspicuous object. 
 
 Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Pri- 
 mary rocks, in which are cracks or fissures, through 
 which gaseous products have escaped, without forming 
 a crater, and indeed without ejecting any igneous solid 
 matter. One locality of this kind presents a result 
 somewhat peculiar. It is on elevated land near the 
 Spokein river, where there are hundreds of regular 
 cones, varying from a few feet in diameter and height, 
 to a hundred or more in diameter at their base, and 
 
340 GEOLOGY. 
 
 fifty ox sixty feet high. They are made up of angular 
 fragments of granite, from an inch to six or eight 
 inches in size, and stand on a sandy plain now sparsely 
 covered with yellow pine, apparently disturbed only 
 at the places where these cones have broken through 
 it. At a short distance south is granite in situ. Near 
 these cones there is a large dyke, visible a hundred 
 rods or more, the only other evidence of a disturbing 
 force. These piles of fragments seem to have been 
 made by the escape of steam or gas ; for they appear 
 as if smoked by a fire from within the cones. The 
 Salmon river mountains afford another example similar 
 to this. An irregular circular space of a hundred 
 acres or more, is covered with immense quantities of 
 granite broken into cubical and angular fragments, as 
 though prepared for Macadamizing the future turn- 
 pikes of Oregon. 
 
 These mountains, though mere islands of granite and 
 mica slate in the great volcanic field, are quite exten- 
 sive, and in addition to the breaking up of the granite 
 by igneous forces, they are also perforated by vents or 
 chimneys, through which lava has escaped. One of 
 the highest points of the mountains which lay in my 
 route was of this sort. It is a granite mountain, with 
 the top capped by a volcanic cone, rising like an im- 
 mense pyramid. The passage in some places of gra- 
 nite into basalt, is easily traced, and the first igneous 
 appearance is not a change of the structure, but multi- 
 plied fractures increase until you find the granite bro- 
 ken into large fragments ; and these diminishing in 
 size, until they disappear in the distinct characteris- 
 tics of volcanic agency, in which it is changed into 
 a substance resembling trachyte, if it has not become 
 trachyte itself, while in situ. Smaller sections of gra- 
 
GEOLOGY. 341 
 
 nite are scattered over the country in forms of less di- 
 mensions, protruding from the earth ; but these are of 
 somewhat rare occurrence. 
 
 We have said that recent igneous action has taken, 
 place. A well authenticated instance occurred in Au- 
 gust, 1831. There was at this time at Fort Vancou- 
 ver and vicinity, an uncommonly dark day, which was 
 thought to have been caused by an eruption of a vol- 
 cano. The whole day was nearly as dark as night, 
 except a slight red, lurid appearance, which was per- 
 ceptible until near night. Lighted candles were ne- 
 cessary through the day. The atmosphere was filled 
 with ashes, which were very light, like the white ashes 
 of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced 
 by great fires, and yet none were known to have been 
 in any part of the whole region around. The day was 
 perfectly calm, without any wind. For a few days 
 after, the fires out of doors were noticed to burn with 
 a bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur. There 
 were no earthquakes. By observations which were 
 made after the atmosphere became clear, it was thought 
 the pure, white, perpetual snow upon Mount St. He- 
 lens was discolored, presenting a brown appearance, 
 and therefore it was concluded, that there had been 
 upon it a slight eruption.* The Indians say they have 
 seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. Tilki, the 
 first chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of 
 more than ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen 
 fires in the fissures of rocks in the last named moun- 
 tains.! 
 
 * This was the opinion of Doct. Gardner, a distinguished naturalist, 
 from Eaglaad, who was present at the time. 
 
 t Since the publication of the above in other editions, I have been 
 credibly informed that lava was ejected at that time from Mouut St. 
 Helen. 
 
342 GEOLOGY. 
 
 Though I have improved every opportunity which 
 has been presented to make observations, and have 
 also made many enquiries of men who have traveled 
 extensively and for a long time in different parts of 
 this country, some of whom are men of science, yet no 
 evidence of fossil remains have been noticed, with the 
 exception of a very few specimens. I saw a small 
 shell, a Turritella, which was found in a mountain 
 south of Mount Hood in the Callapooa country. Also 
 a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore 
 of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve 
 shells, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Ter- 
 tiary formation. The largest specimens which I took, 
 measure, longitudinally, four and a half inches from 
 the hinge, and transversely, five. They are very 
 perfect, beautifully scalloped, and have all the lustre 
 of living shells. To these I must add three locations 
 of petrified wood. The first is silicious which I found 
 in the cavity of an extinct crater in the eastern part of 
 Oregon, near a branch of the Salmon river. The next, 
 at the Cascades, dendrolites of various magnitudes 
 and descriptions, some presenting the appearance of 
 mineral coal. The third location is upon the north 
 branch of the Columbia, near the lower part of the 
 Grand Coule, more silicious than those about the 
 Cascades. 
 
 Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, 
 is walled up on its sides, and studded with islands of 
 basaltic rocks, rising in perpendicular height from 
 twenty to four hundred feet ; the question forces itself 
 upon the mind, what agency formed the channel of the 
 Columbia and other rivers in this country, flowing 
 through ridges and mountains of hard basalt ? Un- 
 doubtedly the action of water has worn the rock very 
 
GEOLOGY. 343 
 
 considerably and effected changes, but perhaps by no 
 principle of its action can it be supposed that it has 
 produced so long and so deep a channel, as the one 
 through which the river flows, and through such solid 
 rock formations, differing but little from iron in hard- 
 ness. That the channels of rivers owe their existence 
 to other causes than the action of water is no new 
 idea. Indeed very many are now described as formed 
 otherwise. In relation to the channels of the Connec- 
 ticut river and its branches, see Prof. Hitchcock's Geo. 
 page 167, 1st edit. While I believe that Providence 
 operates by means, yet I doubt not there are pheno- 
 mena which are, and ever may remain unresolved. 
 While conversing in relation to the channel of the Co- 
 lumbia with some literary gentlemen who had fre- 
 quently passed up and down this river, after several 
 theories were proposed, none of which could bear the 
 test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had 
 been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had 
 dammed up water, and then with his fingers drawn 
 a channel through the sand for the water to run ; so it 
 seemed to him that God had drawn a channel ibr the 
 Columbia. 
 
 If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of 
 God as a landmark in our investigations, but look to 
 "nature" alone, at work in her great laboratory, the 
 earth, as our only guide, to teach us precisely how the 
 earth was formed, we shall, at least, be in danger of 
 wandering into mazes from which we shall not be able 
 easily to extricate ourselves. 
 
 The condition of the country on the western side of 
 the Rocky Mountains, differing in almost every par- 
 ticular from that on the eastern side, may render the 
 common assumption doubtful, that different genera 
 
344 GEOLOGY. 
 
 and species of plants and animals, designate distinct 
 formations and distinct periods of time, in which such 
 formations took place. And if it was known to be 
 true, that the same genera and species of animals and 
 plants had their existence in the same period of time, 
 in all countries of the same climate, or in correspond- 
 ing latitudes, then the age of different formations 
 might be better known by fossil remains. But it is a 
 fact, that the genera and species of animals and .plants 
 may differ widely and materially in the same country, 
 age, and latitude. This is now the case in North 
 America, on the east and west sides of the Rocky 
 Mountains ; which gives us a view and shows what 
 may be the truth in relation to regions of the earth, 
 perhaps regarded as belonging to different periods, 
 though in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all such 
 cases, marks of isochronism, or the want of it, doubt- 
 less could be found, and with proper care would con- 
 vince the experienced geologist of % their diversity or 
 identity in time. 
 
 Compare the two sides of North America as they 
 now are, and notice the difference which exists in ani- 
 mals and productions. Let now the whole of the north- 
 ern part of this continent be submerged, and after a 
 long time be again elevated to its present position, and 
 let future generations examine its fossil remains, and 
 by the rules very generally laid down, would they not 
 be liable hastily to conclude that the section on the east 
 side, and that on the west side of the mountains, indi- 
 cate two different periods of submersion, and that 
 there was a long intermediate period of tranquility be- 
 tween them ? Would not the different genera and 
 species of vegetables and animals lead to this conclu- 
 sion ? Would they not, from the evident difference 
 
GEOLOGY. 345 
 
 of temperature of climate in the same latitudes on the 
 east and on the west, conclude, (if there was not a 
 careful search made for other marks to show disparity 
 or identity of time,) that the western section was sub- 
 merged, at a period when the earth was much warmer 
 than at the period when the eastern section was sub- 
 merged ? This would be a rational and legitimate 
 conclusion from the rule that in strata of the same 
 class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different 
 period of time, and were deposited under a different 
 condition of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs 
 found in the west and not found in the east, would as 
 clearly prove a different climate in the same latitude, 
 and therefore a different period of submersion, as the 
 gigantic ferns prove a different temperature of the 
 earth, and of course a different period of time, in which 
 they were deposited. 
 
 On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, mea- 
 suring from five to eight feet in diameter, and between 
 one and two hundred feet in height, would be found 
 so numerous as to constitute whole forests ; and also 
 the alder of various diameters, from the small to those 
 of one foot in diameter, and proportionably tall ; and 
 the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and pro- 
 portionably large ; while the fir, the alder, and rush, 
 found on the east side, would be mere dwarfs in com- 
 parison with those on the west, and also very sparse. 
 And many genera of trees and plants would be found 
 on one side, which would not be found on the other. 
 On the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar 
 maple, elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of 
 animals, there would not be found any of the present 
 fossils of the east ; nor the ox, the ass, the swine, nor 
 common sheep — the buffalo would be found east and 
 15* 
 
346 GEOLOGY. 
 
 in the mountains, but not numerous beyond. To what 
 strange conclusions, without great care and close ex- 
 amination, should we come, if such data simply were 
 received ! If such is now the difference of vegetables 
 and animals, between the country on the east, and the 
 country on the west of our continent, and in the same 
 latitude, may not mistakes be made in regard to dif- 
 ferent formations, and different periods of time in which 
 they have taken place ? Especially when periods are 
 so remote, and the minute exploration of the earth 
 confined to so small limits ? 
 
 No doubts need be indulged, but that such advances 
 may and will be made in the science of geology, that it 
 will become one of the strong corroborating evidences 
 of the inspiration of the scriptures, without departing 
 form the obvious meaning of any part of the inspired 
 language. The books of nature, of providence, and of 
 revelation harmonize ; and it is owing to our darkened 
 and limited understandings, and the imperfections of 
 our knowledge, that we have any difficulty in seeing 
 their harmony ; and the more correct knowledge we 
 gain of them, the more we shall see and admire their 
 coincidence. 
 
 Far the greatest part of the soil of Oregon is formed 
 from decomposed lava and other like substances, re- 
 duced by atmospheric agencies, which forms a fine 
 rich, black mould. Some parts, however, are in a dif- 
 ferent condition ; such as the great desert of the Sho- 
 shones or Snake country, which lies between two 
 ranges of mountains, and extends three hundred or 
 more miles in a southeasterly direction, with an ave- 
 rage width of about one hundred miles. This desert, 
 occupying as it does so many square miles, is to a 
 great extent covered with scoria and other volcanic 
 
GEOLOGY. 347 
 
 matter, which from their nature, renders it a barren 
 region. Other tracts of country are argillaceous. In 
 several localities escarpments' of clay diversified in 
 structure, are presented. The layers are from a few 
 inches to twenty feet in thickness. Their colors are 
 dusky red, brown, blue, green, yellow, and in some in- 
 stances pure white, and not unfrequently more or less 
 indurated. Still, other tracts are calcarious ; and some 
 parts especially near the Rocky Mountains, are co- 
 vered with a silicious sand, mixed with volcanic detri- 
 tus ; while few, and only few parts of the country af- 
 ford vegetable mould. 
 
 By reference to the map between Okanagan and 
 Walla Walla, the dotted line, as will be seen, describes 
 the Grand Coule. By some cause, probably volcanic, 
 the Columbia has been turned from its ancient bed, 
 and made to take a new and more circuitous course. 
 The old channel has islands rising above what was 
 once the level of the water ; and as previously men- 
 tioned, high mural escarpments are found on its sides. 
 
 Another fact worthy to be mentioned, is the subsi- 
 dence on the Columbia. It is twenty or more miles 
 long, and about a mile wide.* See page 142. 
 
 What I suppose to be another subsidence occurs on 
 the summit level which divides the waters of the Snake 
 and Spokein rivers. See page 294. 
 
 Rivers are found which disappear and again re-ap- 
 
 *On a close and particular examination of this interesting phenomena, 
 it is my decided opinion that there are too many absurdities attending 
 the hypothesis, that this i.-; a land slide. How deep and large must 
 have been the body of earth to have retained these forest trees in their 
 natural erect position, and how very deep must have been the river to 
 receive such a body of earth and trees, ten or twenty feet below low 
 water mark. Aud besides there are no continuous ranges of mountains 
 the whole di&tauce of the subsidence. 
 
348 GEOLOGY. 
 
 pear from under volcanic products, which is no new 
 phenomena in other volcanic countries. Two such 
 rivers are put down on the map south of Henry's 
 Fork. 
 
 A few remarks on the minerals of Oregon will close 
 this chapter. 
 
 Limestone does not abound here ; indeed it is ques- 
 tionable whether it exists except in very detached and 
 small quantities. One location of magnesian limestone, 
 I observed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring, 
 which I have already described. The lime used at 
 Fort Vancouver, is made of rock coral, imported for 
 ballast in vessels returning from the Sandwich Islands. 
 In the vicinity of the Sulphur Spring was a quantity, 
 though not very extensive, of gypsum. The only mar- 
 ble {carbonate of lime) I noticed was in a mountain situ- 
 ated a short distance below the confluence of the Spo- 
 kein with the Columbia. In parts which I examined, 
 I discovered it to be saccharine white, and variegated 
 blue. A specimen of the first I have preserved. Sit- 
 uated as it is on a navigable river, it will most probably 
 become in time a source of wealth. It is associated 
 with primitive rocks. 
 
 In the region of Pierre's Hole, and still farther west, 
 there is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, 
 in great abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian 
 in large quantities. Augite enters largely into almost 
 all the volcanic productions. Obsidian is found in very 
 many places throughout the country ; and towards the 
 ocean in small quantities it is a resinous white. 
 
 Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties 
 of color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky 
 red, yellowish, gray, and black, of different degrees of 
 
1 
 
 GEOLOGY. 349 
 
 hardness and gravity, some being compact, some cel- 
 lular, and often so light as to float upon water. Tra- 
 chyte is also found among the varieties of lava. 
 
 Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as 
 calcedony, agate, red and yellow jasper, cornelian, 
 common opal, beautiful garnets, pyrites, and amethys- 
 tic quartz, are found in different sections of the coun- 
 try, but more frequently upon the shores of the Co- 
 lumbia, Willamette, and the large branches of these 
 rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors, 
 many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might 
 be improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the 
 lapidary. Porphyry of different textures and quality 
 is frequently met with, some of which resemble the 
 precious stones in fineness. 
 
 I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the region of 
 the Black Hills on the east of the Rocky Mountains ; 
 bituminous coal, of which I saw a quantity, is obtained 
 from a locality near Puget's Sound, and brought for use 
 to Vancouver. 
 
 It is an interesting fact, that Mineral Rock Salt ex- 
 ists in its native state, in a section of mountains on the 
 south side of the Salmon river, before entering the 
 Salmon river mountains. It crops out from the side 
 of a mountain, a little above the base. I saw the mine 
 and examined specimens of it, and took of it for future 
 use. It is pure and white, and contains less of the wa- 
 ter of crystalization than common salt. The geologi- 
 cal formations in the immediate vicinity, so nearly re- 
 semble those described in the neighborhood of the 
 mineral salt mines of Poland, as to induce the belief 
 that it exists in great abundance. It was peculiarly 
 grateful to me in the circumstances in which I was 
 placed, and the best testimony I can give to the qual- 
 
350 GEOLOGY. 
 
 ity is, that I found it very useful when compelled to 
 subsist on game. 
 
 Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the 
 shores of the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are 
 so strongly impregnated, that salt in large quantities 
 can be easily made. How wise and kind is the dispo- 
 sition of the products of nature, and how well adapted 
 to the wants of all his creatures has the hand of a be- 
 neficent Father distributed his blessings ; and here, at 
 so great a remove from all the facilities of commerce, 
 He has laid up in store one of the most necessary and 
 important articles of domestic use. 
 
 Mineral springs have also been discovered. The 
 most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river, 
 about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable 
 for the quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, 
 but not having been analyzed, its particular mineral 
 properties are not ascertained, and the general remark 
 only can be made, that it greatly resembles the Sara- 
 toga waters ; the Sulphur Spring to the south of the 
 Trois Tetons, on a branch of Henry's fork, around 
 which large quantities of pure sulphur are deposited, 
 and from which sulphureted hydrogen escapes, and its 
 annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty 
 rods distant. Springs evolving gasses seem not un- 
 frequent ; — and the hot springs in the great range of 
 the Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to fur- 
 nish the mountain men a convenient place to boil their 
 food. 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts,) purely native, 
 exists in immense quantities in and on both sides of the 
 mountains. Lakes or pools, which the heat of sum- 
 mer principally evaporates, abound in this region, ex- 
 hibiting crystalized salts in great quantities. Spicular 
 
GEOLOGY. 351 
 
 crystals of the same salt shoot up on the surface of the 
 ground, and effloresce to such a degree as to present 
 the appearance of fields whitened with snow. 
 
 No indications of Metalic Ores have yet been no- 
 ticed in any part of Oregon Territory ; and probably 
 when metals are found, they will not be in their oxyds, 
 but reduced by the intense volcanic heat to their mas- 
 sive state. 
 
 If metals are abundant, they probably lie near the 
 Rocky Mountains, or in the northern part of Oregon. 
 Beautiful crystals of sulphuret of iron are found on 
 Queen Charlotte's Island ; some of which contain traces 
 of the precious metals. I have a specimen of an ore, 
 as yet undetermined, from this island. 
 
 The Oregon is a country rich in geological features, 
 and will yet unfold its treasures to the scientific world, 
 in all their fulness. No country, probably, can be 
 found so marked by sudden and sublime changes ; 
 from the oldest granite to the recent rocks ; from old 
 to new, and from new to the old. While in every di- 
 rection all is pierced, in a thousand ways, by the power 
 of internal heat, exhibiting manifold and surprising re- 
 sults. 
 
352 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 General remarks— passage in the steam-ship Beaver down the river — 
 take passage on board the barque Columbia — detention in Chenook 
 bay — great cave — -Codfish, the first ever taken in this bay. 
 
 Having explored the most important parts of this 
 territory, and gained all the information within my 
 reach, as to the several objects proposed in my in- 
 structions from the Board of Foreign Missions ; and 
 especially having ascertained to my entire satisfaction 
 two most prominent facts, namely, the entire practica- 
 bility of penetrating with safety to any and every 
 portion of the vast interior, and the disposition of the 
 natives in regard to my mission among them, it re- 
 mained that the most feasible and expeditious mode of 
 returning should next be consulted. I could expect to 
 acquire but little additional knowledge in traversing 
 the route to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of 
 several months, it seemed could be avoided by a return 
 by water. The Hudson Bay Company were about to 
 send a ship to the Sandwich Islands, in which I was 
 kindly offered a gratuitous passage. On the other 
 hand, my friendship with gentlemen of this establish- 
 ment, my regard for the spiritual welfare of the be- 
 nighted men, for whose good, I had for many a weary 
 day pursued my object over mountains and plains, 
 hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of climate 
 and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this 
 whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and 
 to be able to give them personally, instead of by letter, 
 
REFLECTIONS. 353 
 
 the result of my collected information, as a guide to 
 them in their incipient labors ; all these held me rivet- 
 ed to the spot, and undecided as to my course. At 
 length after a consultation with my most judicious 
 friends, I concluded to take passage in the barque Co- 
 lumbia for Oahu, in the hope that an early opportunity 
 would present to return to the United States. 
 
 In taking leave of this country and the work in 
 which I have so long been engaged, a train of reflec- 
 tions crowded upon my mind. The future condition of 
 this noble race of men, is a subject of interesting en- 
 quiry to many others as well as to myself. Whether the 
 Indians are to pass away before the increasing power 
 and numbers of white men, or whether enlightened 
 and improved by their philanthropy, they shall arise 
 in the scale of intellectual and moral existence, is a 
 problem which time alone can solve, i entered on the 
 work of exploring this field with no bias or precon- 
 ceived opinion, and from critical and personal observa- 
 tion, I hesitate not to say, that I can see no reason 
 existing in the nature of things, or in their present 
 condition, which necessarily dooms the race to anni- 
 hilation on the one hand, or on the other, necessarily 
 makes them " objects of apprehension, as the future 
 hordes who shall in coming time, like the northern 
 barbarians of Roman days, be reserved as the scourge 
 of an overgrown and decaying republic." If to do good 
 be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not 
 why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a 
 race of freemen from their depression, and to place 
 them in the rank of intelligent men, be not an under- 
 taking fraught with as much promise and encourage- 
 ment, as it was in earlier days to elevate our ancestors. 
 In favor of this opinion, we have the docility of the 
 
354 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 Indians in every thing pertaining to their improvement ; 
 in the sprightliness of their youth and children ; and 
 in the amiableness of their native tempers and dispo- 
 sitions. I take nothing of this upon testimony. In all 
 my intercourse with them, I saw, with only one ex- 
 ception, no angry or malevolent passions in exercise in 
 their little communities. 
 
 I tremble for the consequences, when I reflect on the 
 wrongs inflicted upon this race of men. Able pens 
 have portrayed in vivid colors, their injuries and abu- 
 ses, and humanity has wept. Were but the one hun- 
 dredth part spread out to view, we should recoil at the 
 sight. The life of an Indian, in the estimation of our 
 border and refugee men who visit their country, is 
 nothing worth. Theirs is a land where white men re- 
 gard no law ; but superior cunning and superior force 
 bear rule. It Was related to me that Captain S. an 
 English officer in half pay, while traveling through the 
 Indian country, lost a horse which he highly valued, 
 and believing it to be stolen by an Indian, offered five 
 hundred dollars for his head. One of a lawless band, 
 a half Indian who was present, went in pursuit, and re- 
 turned with the head of the person charged with the 
 theft, and demanded his reward. To make out the sum 
 Captain S. gave him two horses, calling each 8250. 
 Thus ended the affair. Mr. Wyeth, in a memoir, em- 
 bodied in a Report of a Committee of Congress, on the 
 Oregon question, says, " The preponderance of bad 
 character is so great amongst traders and their people, 
 that crime carries with it little or no shame. I have 
 heard it related among white American trappers, as 
 a good joke, that a trapper who had said he would 
 shoot any Indian, whom he could catch stealing his 
 traps, was seen one morning to kill one ; and, on being 
 
DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 355 
 
 asked if the Indian had stolen his traps, he answered 
 'No, but he looked as if he was going to.' " These are 
 only specimens. 
 
 I have been much pleased to notice among the be- 
 nevolent operations of the present day, the formation 
 of a society in England, which I regard as among not 
 the least benevolent, viz : " An Aborigines Protection 
 Society," from whose " Plan and Objects," I quote, as 
 expressing very fully my own sentiments. " Among 
 these tribes, our imported diseases produce frightful 
 ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and consume their 
 population, our unjust laws exclude them from enjoy- 
 ing that first element of well-ordered societies, judicial 
 protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely 
 incorporation with colonial communities ; while, in ad- 
 dition to all these evils, our neglect of suitable means 
 arid methods of improvement, prevents that adoption 
 of civilized manners and customs to which they are in- 
 clined. It is impossible for us as men, patriots, phi- 
 lanthropists, or Christians, to behold without anxiety, 
 the ruin of the people whom we are accessary in 
 supplanting, unless our future modes of colonization 
 be directed with greater humanity and wisdom than 
 in times past." 
 
 On the 18th of June, according to previous arrange- 
 ments, I took passage in the steam-ship Beaver for 
 Fort George, to join the barque Columbia for the Sand- 
 wich Islands. As the Beaver was commencing her 
 first voyage upon the Pacific, under the power of 
 steam, destined for the northwest coast, the people of 
 the fort, and those residing around, assembled upon 
 the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved majesti- 
 cally from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers, 
 which were reciprocated by all on board, and they re- 
 
356 GREAT CAVE. 
 
 sponded, " A happy voyage, a prosperous voyage." 
 The ship anchored at night a little above Tongue 
 Point ; and the next day, after being detained upon a 
 sand bar, from which the tide after awhile set us free, 
 we arrived at Fort George. The next day, the 20th, 
 with my friend Mr. Finlayson, and a few others I took 
 a ramble on the shores below. The verdure of the 
 trees and plants, the red indigenous clover in full 
 sweetness in the desert, and the mildness of the sea- 
 son, all combined to make the scene enchanting. It 
 was on the shore of this bay where I collected the 
 large bivalve shell petrifactions, embedded in calca- 
 rious sandstone of the Tertiary formation as described 
 in the chapter foregoing. No volcanic appearances 
 were visible in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and 
 we dropped down to the Chenook Bay and anchored 
 just above Cape Disappointment. Here, for the want 
 of favorable wind and tide, we were detained until the 
 28th. While we continued here, I made several ex- 
 cursions on. shore ; ascended the cape, which is pro- 
 bably about four hundred feet high, and from which a 
 fine prospect of the Pacific and its shores is presented 
 as far as the eye can reach. The shore is generally 
 bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor near. The 
 country around is rocky and densely covered with 
 forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on 
 the west end of the cape, a large cave extends into 
 the volcanic rocks the distance of one hundred and 
 fifty feet. We penetrated into its gloomy recesses, 
 and from the bones of animals strewed around within, 
 we concluded it must be the retreat of some of those 
 beasts of prey which inhabit these forests and coasts. 
 
 About the cape, at different places, grow the large 
 
CODFISH. 357 
 
 orange-yellow raspberries, of a new species, upon 
 shrubberry which often grows to the height of twenty 
 feet, and more generally in the forests than in the open 
 places, but equally fruitful. They are more inviting to 
 the eye than agreeable to the taste. 
 
 While we were detained here, our men belonging 
 to the Columbia caught a large number of codfish. In 
 taste and appearance, they very much resemble those 
 taken upon the banks of Newfoundland, excepting they 
 are a little shorter. This is the first time they were 
 known to exist in these waters ; the Indians knew 
 nothing of them before, and they eagerly took those 
 we did not need. 
 
358 VOYAGE TO OAHU. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Departure for the Sandwich Islands — Arrival at the Islands — worship 
 in the native church — description of Oahu — the Pari — the valley of 
 Manoa — description of Honolulu — of Waititi — heathen temple — Eva 
 — Waialua — Keneohe — mountains — salt lake natural productions — 
 animals — government — tea party of the royal family — dinner to the 
 officers of the Peacock and Enterprise — decrease of population — un- 
 fair negotiations — foreign residents — charity school — seamen's chapel 
 — burying place of the royal family — missionary success. 
 
 On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light 
 wind, though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver 
 weighed anchor and put out to sea for her northern 
 voyage. She went over the bar finely, and could have 
 towed us over, but it being her first experiment, it was 
 not thought advisable. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 28th, the wind and tide were fa- 
 vorable for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past 
 three in the afternoon. There was a heavy rolling 
 sea; and every man was at his post, one on each side 
 of the ship constantly throwing the lead to take the 
 sounding. Four fathoms and a half was the least, and 
 this was little enough considering the heavy swell. 
 The bar extends five miles out to sea, with a. channel 
 only about a half mile wide, upon which, in the deepest 
 parts, the water is only seven fathoms, and has a very 
 bold termination ; for we passed from seven fathoms 
 to no sounding, where the sea presented its dark blue. 
 The land receded, and in a few hours disappeared ; 
 and nothing was to be seen but one wide expanse of 
 
ARRIVAL AT OAHU. 359 
 
 ocean. Our voyage to Oahu,* Sandwich Islands, was 
 attended with nothing remarkable, excepting that it 
 was performed in much shorter time than usual, being 
 only sixteen days from the time we left the Columbia 
 river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We 
 took our direct course, and kept it without any varia- 
 tion, and with a few exceptions without shortening a 
 sail, the distance of two thousand five hundred miles. 
 An almost entire uniformity marked our progress, and 
 excepting the common alternations of day and night, 
 sunshine and clouds, nothing interrupted the monotony 
 of the scene. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th of July, land was an- 
 nounced. The islands of Ranai and Morakai were 
 near, and as we passed them, we had a near view of 
 the latter. It is not so mountainous as most others of 
 the group, and presented rather a sterile aspect. We 
 soon after made Oahu, and passed on the east side 
 around Diamond Hill to the harbor of Honolulu on the 
 south. This harbor is the best and almost the only 
 good one in any of the groups of the Polynesian Islands. 
 The entrance is somewhat intricate, and an experi- 
 enced pilot is required to take ships in safely. Within 
 the coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for ships 
 of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long ex- 
 tended roads, without the reefs, which afford good an- 
 chorage, renders the port desirable, and the island, in 
 a commercial point of view, the most important of any 
 in this part of the Pacific ocean. 
 
 We went on shore, two o'clock in the afternoon, and 
 I was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where 
 
 "Pronounced Wauhoo. 
 
360 PUBLIC WORSHIP. 
 
 I met several of the other missionaries, and felt much 
 rejoiced to behold again a Christian community. 
 
 The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and 
 enervating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of 
 the daily north-east trade winds, it would be insupport- 
 able to a northern constitution. 
 
 On Sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native 
 church, and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the 
 Hawaiian language to a very large assembly of na- 
 tives, probably two thousand five hundred, who gave 
 very good attention. They were all decently dressed ; 
 while some of them were in the European mode, the 
 most of them were dressed in their native costume, 
 and made a good appearance. Their conduct and at- 
 tention were very becoming, and many listened with 
 deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and 
 the royal family, were present ; and although it was 
 easy to distinguish them from the common people, 
 yet they made no ostentatious display of royalty. 
 Their dress was rich, but plain, and they paid" sober 
 attention to the worship of God. The performance of 
 the singers was good, but there was not that melody 
 in their voices which characterizes the Indians. 
 
 The house of worship is large and commodious, one 
 hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, 
 built in the native style, with the roof and sides co- 
 vered with thatch. 
 
 Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich Islands, 
 situated in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longi- 
 tude 158° 38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles 
 from Koka on the south east to Kakana on the north- 
 west. The greatest portion of the island is on the 
 north-east of this line. Its greatest breadth is twenty- 
 eight miles from Kahuku on the north to (Laeloa Bar- 
 
DECISIVE BATTLE. 381 
 
 ber's Point) on the south ; about four fifths of the island 
 is on the east of this line. The island is very mountain- 
 ous ; the highest eminence is called Honahuanui, and is 
 a little over four thousand feet. The Pari, at the upper 
 end of the valley of Nuuanu, north of Honolulu, may 
 be counted among the curiosities of the island ; princi- 
 pally on account of its being a part of the main road, 
 or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thousand 
 one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, 
 and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is 
 to be clambered up and down in passing from Hono- 
 lulu to Kenehoe, and to a stranger it is a fearful un- 
 dertaking, as it is necessary to have a native to assist 
 in putting your feet into the crevices of the rocks. 
 And yet the natives pass up and down with their cala- 
 bashes of poi, and their loads of melons, fish, and other 
 commodities, without any difficulty more than fatigue. 
 
 Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha 
 and the king of Oahu, the final battle w^as fought here 
 w r hich decided the fate of the island. The king of 
 Oahu made a desperate struggle ; and one part of his 
 routed army, numbering more than three hundred, 
 were pursued to this precipice, forced down, and al- 
 most all were dashed to pieces. 
 
 On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains 
 rise up two thousand feet, forming a narrow chasm, 
 through which the north-east trade winds rush with 
 great violence. Before you, at the north, you have a« 
 very pleasing view of the fertile valley of Kolou ; and 
 beyond is a fine prospect of the bay and wide spread 
 ocean. The valley between the Pari and Honolulu is 
 seven miles long ; the upper part of which is narrow 
 and very picturesque. Interesting cascades are seen 
 dashing down the almost perpendicular mountains, and 
 16 
 
362 VALLEY 0? WANOA. 
 
 the whole scenery is covered with fresh foliage. This 
 was almost the only place where the cool and invigo- 
 rating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat. 
 The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to 
 a great extent with taro patches. 
 
 Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arum, and is 
 planted in hills upon patches of ground, so formed as 
 to be partially flooded with water, somewhat after the 
 manner of rice cultivation. In eight or ten months af- 
 ter setting the plants, they are fit for use. To prepare 
 it for food, it is always necessary to roast it, to take 
 out the pungency which is common to this genus, as 
 found in wild turnep. It is frequently eaten for bread 
 with no other preparation except roasting ; or it is con- 
 verted into poi by pulverising and making it into a stiff 
 paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has under- 
 gone the acetic fermentation. 
 
 East of this valley is another called Manoa, about 
 five miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. 
 It is well watered by streams descending from the 
 mountains, formed by showers of rain which frequently 
 fall upon them, and which sometimes extend to the 
 valleys and plains. Its fertile soil is well cultivated 
 with sweet potatoes, taro, and melons. At the upper 
 end, Kaahumanu, the late queen regent, who died in 
 1832, had a house built for retirement from the bustle 
 of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beautiful cool 
 ♦grove of ohia and kukui* trees, on an eminence com- 
 manding a view of the valley below. Near this dwel- 
 ling, she caused a house to be built for the accommo- 
 dation of the missionaries, when they should wish for 
 
 * The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of 
 whwh is used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree. 
 

 HONOLULU. 363 
 
 rest, and to be refreshed with the invigorating air of 
 the mountains. The evidences of her Christian cha- 
 racter were convincing. Her piety was active. She 
 traveled through all the islands, from time to time, to 
 see that the people attended upon the means of reli- 
 gious instruction, and the schools ; and to recommend 
 the religion of the Bible to all classes of her subjects. 
 Her example, as well as her authority, was powerful 
 in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which 
 threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was 
 felt not only by her own people, but also by foreigners 
 who resorted to these islands. 
 
 When I visited this spot of remembrances, the build- 
 ings were far] gone to decay ; but not the cherished 
 regard of her piety and philanthropy. This spot pre- 
 sented a very pleasing view of the high and precipi- 
 tous mountains around on every side, excepting the 
 south, which is open and exhibits to view the gran- 
 deur of the rolling ocean. The many cascades around 
 upon the mountain sides added to the interest of the 
 scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found 
 the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of matu- 
 rity ; the arrow root ; and the brake fern, growing in 
 many instances, to the height of twenty feet. From a 
 bulb, near the root, is taken what the natives call ha- 
 puu, a silky down, which makes excellent beds and 
 cushions. 
 
 Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, 
 on a bay of the same name, and is the capital, and 
 business place of all the islands. The land around, and 
 on which the village is located is a dry barren, except- 
 ing on the north and north-west, which is moist and 
 cultivated with taro patches, with some cocoa trees in- 
 terspersed. The buildings generally are in the native 
 
364 OLD HEATHEN TEMPLE. 
 
 style, thatched ; many are built with doba walls after 
 the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and Peru, 
 that is, with large sun-burnt bricks, made about two 
 feet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. 
 The clay is mixed with cut straw to strengthen them, 
 after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their en- 
 closures are often built in the same manner. There 
 are several good buildings made of rock coral in En- 
 glish style, some of which are spacious and well fin- 
 ished. The village contains about nine thousand in- 
 habitants, three hundred of whom are English and 
 Americans. Most of the commercial business and 
 trade are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, 
 increased by the resort of whale ships, in the fall and 
 spring, for repairs and fresh supplies, particularly ve- 
 getables ; it is the place where all other shipping touch 
 which navigate this ocean from Europe and America, 
 in the Chinese and East India trade. This place is 
 constantly growing in importance, and must continue 
 to do so from its local advantages. 
 
 Four miles south-east of Honolulu, is the pleasant 
 native village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the 
 same name. It contains five or six hundred inhabi- 
 tants, is situated in a beautiful grove of cocoa trees, 
 which adds very much to its apearance and comfort. 
 This place, if its cultivation was proportioned to the 
 richness of the soil, might be made one of the most de- 
 lightful spots on the island. 
 
 The only road, or any thing that deserves the name 
 of a road in this island, is between this place and Hono- 
 lulu. 
 
 About two miles east of this village are the remains 
 of an old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices 
 were offered ; a part of the walls of the enclosure are 
 
HEATHEN PRIEST. 365 
 
 still standing. Various methods were employed to 
 obtain victims. One of which was to lay a tabu upon 
 all the people in the whole region around, that no one, 
 for a certain period of time, should go out of their 
 dwellings, or make any fire in them, upon pain of death. 
 If any violated the tabu, they were apprehended and 
 sacrificed to their idols. If none violated the tabu, and 
 they were unsuccessful in obtaining victims, an expe- 
 dient was adopted to decoy the people from their 
 dwellings, by sending out men in a canoe, to range 
 along between the coral reef and the shore, and to 
 feign distress, and if any were decoyed out for their 
 relief, they were apprehended and carried to the tem- 
 ple and offered in sacrifice. 
 
 It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influ- 
 ence of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel 
 superstitions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of 
 seeing an old man who had been a high priest in these 
 bloody rites. He has no hope that he is interested in 
 the salvation of the gospel, but he said it is maitai, 
 (good.) and that the Christian religion is so firmly es- 
 tablished in these islands, that their ancient idolatry 
 can never again be revived. He saluted me with many 
 alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some account of my 
 journey across the Rocky Mountains, and the object. 
 He replied that it was good, and that God was with 
 me and preserved me. He said in their former reli- 
 gion, they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire 
 darkness, but now the light shines. He said that when 
 Captain Vancouver visited these islands, in the reign 
 of Tamaha, he urged the king to renounce idolatry, 
 and the king promised he would, when Christians 
 would send from the land of light a minister to teach 
 them in the right way. They waited until their king 
 
366 EVA WAIALUA. 
 
 died without knowing the right way, and no one came 
 until Mr. Bingham and his associates, in the year 1820. 
 This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his 
 honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, 
 and called him brother, and has ever since been friendly 
 to the missionaries. His wife, whom I also saw, hopes 
 that she has experienced the saving power of the gospel. 
 
 Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a vil- 
 lage of considerable magnitude, but not very compact. 
 It is situated .on Pearl river, at the head of a large la- 
 goon extending several miles inland, and is surrounded 
 with a fertile valley reaching twelve miles north, which 
 is two-thirds of the distance to Waialua. The highest 
 elevation between these places is about four hundred 
 feet, and is intersected in various parts with deep ra- 
 vines. Eva is the station which Rev. Artemus Bishop 
 and wife occupy, whose prospects of usefulness are 
 encouraging. When I was there, the natives were 
 engaged in building a substantial and commodious 
 house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest 
 in the effort. 
 
 In the north-west part of the island, is the village of 
 Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are 
 stationed. The village is situated upon a wide spread 
 bay, which would furnish an excellent harbor for any 
 shipping, if there was sufficient water upon the bar at 
 the entrance. The valley around is large and fertile, 
 capable of being made very productive. On a Sabbath 
 which I spent here, eight natives, six men and two wo- 
 men, were received into the communion of the church, 
 who appeared very intelligent and serious, and con- 
 ducted with as much propriety as is seen in the most 
 
 * Pronounced Ava. 
 
KENEOHE MOUNTAINS. 367 
 
 civilized parts of the world. I felt a satisfaction in 
 joining with these redeemed heathen in the ordinance 
 of the Lord's supper. Every part of divine service 
 was conducted with Christian decorum. I was par- 
 ticularly pleased with the appearance of the native 
 deacon, who was dignified in his person, dressed in 
 good taste, and very devotional in his behavior. 
 
 The only remaining village of any considerable im- 
 portance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjaming W. 
 Parker and wife are stationed. This village is in the 
 fertile valley of Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, 
 which would afford an excellent harbor if there was 
 sufficient water at the entrance over the coral bar. 
 This village is about four miles north of the Pari, and 
 is the most cool and refreshing retreat I found upon 
 the island. The basaltic mountain on the south, three 
 thousand feet high, and on the north side nearly verti- 
 cal, and the north-east trade winds, give a temperate 
 atmosphere, not found in any other part of the island 
 sufficiently low for a village. 
 
 The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though 
 but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The 
 largest, Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs 
 parallel with the ocean, and its highest point is four 
 thousand feet above the level of the sea. This range of 
 mountains is diversified with cones, acute points, and 
 prairies. At the great Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, 
 the main chain turns to the west, and terminates 
 towards Waialua. The north side of the range, west 
 of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many spurs 
 projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like ra- 
 vines. The other range is on the w est part of the 
 island, called Kaala, running north and south, separa- 
 ting Waianae on the west, from the valley of Eva on 
 
368 GEOLOGY. 
 
 the east. The highest point is three thousand eight 
 hundred and fifty feet. There are many conical hills 
 of different magnitudes in various parts of the island, 
 which were evidently ancient craters ; one, six miles 
 south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill ; and an- 
 other, a short distance north of Honolulu, called Fort 
 Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with 
 high walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to 
 have been formed by streams of lava, and by the ac- 
 tion of water cutting ravines. There is an abun- 
 dance of lava and other volcanic productions about 
 these hills. 
 
 The Salt Lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of 
 the crateric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as a 
 source of trade. It has undoubtedly a connection, by 
 some subterraneous passage, with the ocean, near 
 which it is situated. Its depth is not known, being 
 nearly filled with excellent chrystalized salt, which ap- 
 pears to be inexhaustible, and is taken out in large 
 quantities for use and exportation. The lake appears 
 as if filled with ice, a little sunken below the surface of 
 the water. 
 
 The geological formations of this island, and all the 
 others in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning 
 which I obtained information, are volcanic and cora- 
 line to a great extent. Some have supposed that these 
 islands have been thrown up in the first place by inter- 
 nal" fires, and then enlarged by coraline additions. 
 But there is too much argillaceous soil to favor the 
 opinion ; and to say the least, the supposition is without 
 conclusive evidence. Much of the soil is formed of 
 disintegrated and decomposed lava. The reefs lying 
 off from the shores, and in some places immediately 
 upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into 
 
PRODUCTIONS. . 369 
 
 ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Be- 
 tween these formations is a volcanic deposit. The 
 ancient corals are found in many places forming the 
 surface of the plains, elevated some six or eight feet 
 above the present level of the ocean. As the zoo- 
 phytes which form coral, never work above water, it 
 is evident that these islands have been elevated by 
 some subterranean or submarine power, or the ocean 
 is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen 
 in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not in the 
 same degree, is it not probable that the waters of the 
 ocean are gradually diminishing ? Of the modern co- 
 rals there are many species, from the rock, to the most 
 beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of va- 
 rious colors. The volcanic formations do not differ 
 materially from those in Oregon Territory. Cellular 
 lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, 
 and of various colors ; brick red, ash colored, orange 
 yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, 
 nor any silicious sand ; the sand upon the shores being 
 formed either of disintegrated lava, scoria, or coral ; 
 but more generally a combination of these three pro- 
 ducts. 
 
 While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of 
 the productions of these islands, the following are some 
 of the principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa 
 tree, which furnishes lumber nearly equal to ma- 
 hogany ; hybiscus, candle nut tree, mulberry, fig, cot- 
 ton shrub, which grows spontaneously and produces 
 cotton of very fine quality ; coffee tree, grape vines, 
 oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of superior 
 quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root ; indigo plant, 
 which grows finely without any care ; the guava, its 
 
 fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the 
 16* 
 
370 ANiMAlS. 
 
 taste of those not acustomed to it ; taro, sweet and 
 common potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns 
 of extraordinary size ; and the cactus opuntia, fa- 
 miliarly known as the prickly pear, growing to the 
 height of six or eight feet, is planted in hedge-rows for 
 enclosures. All the most superb tropical flowering 
 plants luxuriate in these islands, among which we find 
 the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosa, the 
 pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convolvulus, 
 and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses, 
 the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beauti- 
 ful genera. Also, garden vegetables of various kinds. 
 These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, con- 
 tained but very few animals, and most of those now 
 found upon them have since been introduced from the 
 Mexican coast. There are now, horses, mules, neat 
 cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowls. The birds which have 
 their residence here, though not numerous, are of most 
 beautiful plumage, and the favorite head ornament of 
 the women, is made of the golden colored feathers of 
 a native bird. The crow and raven, which are com- 
 mon in almost all parts of the world, have not found 
 their way here. There are very few reptiles, besides 
 the green lizard, which is very common, and in the 
 days of the idolatry of the Islanders, was worshiped, 
 and such is the influence of superstition, that they can 
 hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insigni- 
 ficant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings, they 
 choose to let it take its own departure, rather than mo- 
 lest it. Snakes are unknown, and the scorpion and 
 centiped have, within a very few years, been brought 
 here in vessels. The mosquetoe was not known until 
 recently, though now they are numerous and very 
 annoying. 
 
GOVERNMENT. 371 
 
 The government of these islands is absolute and he- 
 reditary, administered by the king, queen, and chiefs, 
 whose will is the supreme law ; the common people 
 are a nation of slaves. The lands belong to the go- 
 vernment, and are leased to the people at high rents, 
 and even then they have no security that they shall 
 enjoy the avails of their labor ; for besides the stipu- 
 lated rents, the government make any additional de- 
 mands they please, and the people are taught to obey 
 without complaining. The king secures his house and 
 person by life guards. Very frequently on a "Saturday 
 morning, the queen regent, attended by her train of fe- 
 male companions and servants in equestrian style, visits 
 her garden some two miles east from Honolulu. Their 
 appearance is fine, and they are w T ell skilled in horse- 
 manship. Her ordinary mode of riding is in a small, 
 low- wheel carriage, drawn by twenty servants. The 
 persons of the chiefs are remarkable for their extraor- 
 dinary size, towering quite above the height of the com- 
 mon people, and in corpulency preserving correspond- 
 ing dimensions. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, 
 as the common people are called, have less activity of 
 body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and 
 yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual 
 powers are well developed. In their present political 
 condition, they are not expected to be otherwise than 
 indolent and improvident. In their dress, mode of 
 living, and habitations generally, they have made but 
 little 'advance upon the days of heathenism ; some in 
 the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing 
 than their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns 
 in volcanic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the peo- 
 ple, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live 
 comfortably. 
 
372 TEA PARTY. 
 
 The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, 
 to which with a few others I had the honor to be in- 
 vited. They were dressed richly and in good taste ; 
 the table was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and 
 china ; the entertainment was both judiciously and 
 tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette 
 and ceremony of such occasions were observed. The 
 conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without fri- 
 volity, and nothing occurred embarrassing to any one. 
 At a suitable early hour, we were invited into a 
 well-furnished saloon, where, after a performance of 
 music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro- 
 posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit ; 
 after which the company retired. I have seen but few 
 parties in Christian America conducted more on the 
 principles of rationality and religion. 
 
 An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted 
 in a different style by some of our countrymen and 
 other foreigners in these islands. A dog-feast, as it is 
 here called, was given by foreign resident gentlemen, 
 on the 20th of Sept., at the country seat of the Ameri- 
 can consul, in honor of the officers of the American 
 squadron, the Peacock and Enterprise, then in the har- 
 bor of Honolulu. I extract from the account published 
 in the Sandwich Island Gazette, as described at the 
 time. " Food in the native style was bountifully 
 served up— baked dog was among the dishes, and it 
 was not to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bum- 
 pers, and speeches all came in their turn. Among the 
 
 toasts, were, * Commodore , our Commodore? 
 
 Commodore's reply, * May you all live a thousand 
 
 years, and may we always meet here/ Doctor 
 
 of the United States ship Peacock. * Population and 
 prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an end to all 
 
DECREASE OF POPULATION. 373 
 
 oppressive tabus. 1 The party separated teeming with 
 good spirits." 
 
 The population of these islands has been decreasing 
 ever since an acquaintance has been had with them. 
 Captain Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The 
 present population is about 110,000. A variety of 
 causes have conspired to bring about this declension ; 
 and yet no one so prominent above the rest, as wholly 
 to satisfy enquiry. It is acknowledged by all observers, 
 and has become evident to the government itself, that 
 a change of things in the internal structure of their na- 
 tional affairs, is necessary to the prosperity of the peo- 
 ple. During my stay at Oahu, the heads of the nation 
 had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform 
 and improvement, and to adopt some new mode of ad- 
 ministration which will give to the people the privi- 
 leges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus- 
 try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed 
 among the people, a more equal mode of taxation must 
 be adopted, industry must be encouraged, and pro- 
 gressive prosperity will follow in the train.* 
 
 The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, 
 and with it their existence, is very problematical. A 
 disposition to possess these islands, has evidently been 
 manifested by foreign powers. Whether the paw of 
 the Lion, or the talons of the Eagle, shall first make 
 them its prey, or whether they shall be mutual checks 
 upon each other, and thus prolong the life of this fee- 
 ble nation, is not known. - The manner in which the 
 king and chiefs are often treated by the officers of 
 foreign nations, the insults they often meet with, would 
 
 *Since my visit at these islands, the government has been re-organized 
 and formed upon the system of free governments. 
 
374 UNJUST NEGOTIATIONS. 
 
 not pass with impunity from a more powerful people. 
 In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to 
 mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of 
 dictation ; " You shall, and you shall not." Assertions 
 are made of things existing in the laws and practices 
 of England and America, which neither government 
 would tolerate. Lord Russel, the commander of the 
 Acteon, a British man of war, obtained the signature 
 to a certain instrument, by assuring the Hawaiian go- 
 vernment that, if they refused any longer to sign it, he 
 would order all the English vessels to leave the harbor, 
 and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; 
 and then bring his armed ship before their fort and 
 batter down the walls, and prostrate their village. 
 The king signed the instrument, and then, together 
 with the queen and chiefs, like some other people who 
 feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had 
 only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They 
 accordingly sent a remonstrance to the king of Great 
 Britain, in which they say, that " on account of their 
 urging us so strongly ; on account of said commanders 
 assuring us that their communication was from the 
 king ; and on account of their making preparation to 
 fire upon us — therefore we gave our assent to the wri- 
 ting, without our being willing to give our real appro- 
 bation ; for we were not pleased with it." They feel 
 incompetent to contend with naval strength, and there- 
 fore submit to indignities from which their feelings 
 revolt. Why cannot the principles of justice and 
 equity govern the intercourse of men with men, 
 where they are so well understood, and the painful ne- 
 cessity be spared innocence and helplessness of sup- 
 plicating that protection, which God designed should 
 be enjoyed by all his children ? 
 
FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 375 
 
 Much has been said of the character of the foreign 
 residents, and of the counteracting influence they exert 
 upon the labors of the missionaries in this field. The 
 cause of their bitterness and opposition is well under- 
 stood, and lest my own observations should seem par- 
 tial to the missionaries, and invidious towards those 
 who oppose them, I will embrace all I have to say on 
 the subject in a quotation from a work published by 
 Mr. J. N. Reynolds, of the voyage of the Potomac, an 
 American man of war. He certainly cannot be ac- 
 cused of partiality to the missionaries who reside on 
 these islands, for his remarks on them are somewhat 
 acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign residents he 
 says, " they are generally devoid of all religious prin- 
 ciple, and practice the greatest frauds upon the na- 
 tives in their dealings with them ; which tends to 
 corrupt their morals, and to preclude all hopes of fair- 
 ness in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and 
 no one can regret it more than we do, that this whole 
 population, generally speaking, are of the lowest 
 order ; among whom every thing like the decent re- 
 straint which civilized society imposes upon its mem- 
 bers, is at war with their vicious propensities, and of 
 course resisted by them to the extent of their power." 
 He farther adds, " let us be distinctly understood in 
 the remarks we have made in reference to the foreign 
 residents and missionaries on this island. As to the 
 question, which party is on the side of virtue and good 
 order, there can be but one opinion, where there is 
 not even room for comparison." I have been in com- 
 munities where vice has been unblushingly indulged, 
 hut I have never witnessed direct enmity to every 
 thing morally good, in so much bitterness and power, 
 as in Oahu. 
 
376 CHARITY SCHOOLS. 
 
 Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and 
 manifest a regard for the education of their children, 
 and send some of them to other countries for this pur- 
 pose ; but for most of them a charity school has been 
 established, and for its support a call is made upon 
 the commanders and officers of vessels who come into 
 this port ; and they have even sent to England and 
 America for charitable aid. Though some poor are 
 taught here, yet I know not why the benevolent should 
 help, by way of charity, the consuls and rich merchants 
 in Oahu. 
 
 I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several 
 times for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often se- 
 veral hundred seamen in the port of Honolulu, there 
 are frequently very few attendants on the regular 
 services of the chapel. Rev. Mr. Diell, their worthy 
 chaplain, is however indefatigable in his labors through 
 the week, visiting sailors on ship board, and wherever 
 he can find them, endeavoring to -promote their spirit- 
 ual good. Some conversions have crowned his ef- 
 forts. 
 
 On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the 
 Princess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, 
 I visited the burial place of the kings and royal family. 
 This is a stone building of rock coral, of the common 
 size and structure of the houses of the village, and 
 situated amongst them, having nothing particularly 
 distinguishable except an outward signal, by which is 
 understood the number and rank of the dead within. 
 They are encased first in lead, secured from the ad- 
 mission of air, and then deposited in coffins of elegant 
 workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet, or crimson 
 damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate. 
 Here sleeps the remains of Rihoriho, and Kameha- 
 

 MISSIONARY SUCCESS. 377 
 
 malu, who died on a visit to England, and several oth- 
 ers lying in state ; and in the same tomb, are interred 
 a number of other members of the royal family. 
 
 The missionaries of the American Board of Commis- 
 sioners for Foreign Missions in these islands, have 
 done much to elevate the character of the population, 
 by teaching and preaching the truths of Christianity ; 
 by schools, where the first rudiments of education are 
 taught ; by the press, and a translation of the entire 
 bible ; they have exerted a salutary influence upon the 
 morals of the whole nation, and raised a monument to 
 the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus Christ. 
 They have also laid, instrumentally, a broad founda- 
 tion for the political, and social, and religious improve- 
 ment of that people, unless thwarted by the interfe- 
 rence and opposition of foreigners, and for the future 
 and unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the 
 world to come. I had frequent opportunities of wit- 
 nessing the effect of their labors in the evidences of 
 the moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of 
 meeting with them in their great congregation on the 
 Sabbath. 
 
378 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States — call at the 
 Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo — severe gales 
 of wind — Magellanic clouds — Martin Vass Island — Trinidad — arrival 
 at New London. 
 
 From July to November, no vessel departed from 
 the Sandwich Islands direct for the United States, and 
 after being detained about five months, waiting an op- 
 portunity to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoe- 
 nix, Allyn, from New London, and embarked Decem- 
 ber 17th. The ship was built for the China trade, of 
 four hundred and ten tons, manned with twenty-eight 
 persons, besides five passengers. The pilot boat left 
 us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; our course 
 south- w r est. On the morning of the 21st, we encoun- 
 tered a strong wind, which in the afternoon, had in- 
 creased so much, that we were compelled to put two 
 reefs in the top-sails ; and a squall split our jib and 
 sprung our foremast. I had no opportunity or dispo- 
 sition to enjoy the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being 
 confined to the cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was 
 engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished, 
 for once, with an opportunity of seeing the experiment 
 of taking a whale. The thing has often been described, 
 but the novelty of the manoeuvre interested me. The 
 experienced and skillful whalemen dispose of the dan- 
 gerous process, with the tactics of their profession, in 
 a manner much beyond my conceptions before witness- 
 ing it ; and the monster of the deep, though mighty in 
 his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, and 
 
TETTJAROA. 379 
 
 to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings, at 
 home. When the whale is brought along side of the 
 ship, the whalemen dissever the head from the body, 
 hoist it on deck, and whilst some are employed in per- 
 forating the scull, and with a bucket taking out the 
 sperm, others make a spiral incision in the oily portion 
 of the body, beginning where the head was taken off 
 and by rope and hook suspended by a pulley twenty 
 feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part which 
 cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale re- 
 volves in the water ; and this process is continued un- 
 til all that is valuable is secured. There are said to 
 be thirty thousand men employed in this business in 
 the Pacific, w T hile only about four hundred are engaged 
 in diffusing the light of life through the dark places of 
 the earth. 
 
 January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day 
 we had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails 
 were close reefed — split our main-top-sail. Headed 
 to the E. close on the wind. Very bad sea — not able 
 to take any observation of our latitude or longitude. 
 These gales continued on the 13th until almost every 
 sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The 
 last part of the day was more moderate, and we headed 
 south. By observation taken to-day, our latitude was 
 14o 47' south. 
 
 Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the wea- 
 ther was warm. In the morning we came near Te- 
 tuaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low, 
 the highest parts rising but a few feet above the level 
 of the sea, is thinly inhabited, and adorned with large 
 and beautiful groves of the cocoa tree extending even 
 to the water's edge. The fresh verdure of this island, 
 in all the luxuriance of perpetual summer, was a de- 
 
380 TAHITI. 
 
 lightful contrast to the constant view of the water for 
 nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of the 
 ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager, 
 and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear 
 home. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have 
 seen, it is surrounded with coral reefs, lying off at a 
 little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea 
 constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached 
 the harbor of Papeeti, at the island of Tahiti. The 
 pilot came off to us, and made an effort to get the ship 
 in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and 
 we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it 
 lay spread out before us was a combination of all that 
 was beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the im- 
 pression which this little " Queen of the ocean" makes 
 upon a stranger. Others have described it with all 
 the vividness which its romantic and delightful scenery 
 inspires. The harbor forms a gentle curve, and in the 
 foreground, on a level tract, were scattered neat cot- 
 tages, built of thatch, or wood, plastered and white- 
 washed with coral lime, situated together with the 
 church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange 
 groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture 
 was filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dash- 
 ing their way down the ravines, and then meandering 
 through the rich vale below, to the ocean, while the 
 outline terminated in steep and lofty mountains. But 
 not the least interesting were the marks which the 
 the Christian religion and its attendant, civilization, 
 have made. Here was a church, and to know that 
 this people had lately been rescued from paganism, 
 and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised 
 in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which 
 not even nature's fairest forms had power to awaken. 
 
CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION. 881 
 
 An immortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised 
 to heaven, a monument of the Savior's grace — what 
 can equal it ? 
 
 Monday morning, the 16th, we passed safely into 
 the harbor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pier- 
 son, from Sag Harbor ; on board of which were Rev. 
 W. Richards and family, passengers for the United 
 States. 
 
 We continued in this port four days, during which 
 time I made several excursions about the island, and 
 became acquainted with the English missionaries, of 
 whose successful labors I had often heard and read ; 
 the Rev. Messrs. Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and 
 their families. They appear happy in their work, and 
 devoted to it. The Christian religion is the only reli- 
 gion acknowledged in these islands, and its influence 
 is universally apparent. As the conversion of multi- 
 tudes in the first ages of Christianity, has ever been 
 considered as furnishing evidence of the truth of the 
 gospel, so the "moral miracle" of the conversion of 
 the islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, 
 with all its attendant circumstances, to comfirm our 
 faith, as well as to encourage us in prosecuting still 
 farther those benevolent designs, which render the de- 
 serts, both naturally and morally, the garden of the 
 Lord. Besides preaching on the Sabbath, the mis- 
 sionaries have religious service on other days of the 
 week. At sun-rise every morning they have a pub- 
 lic prayer meeting. They are doing much by their 
 schools and the press ; and most of the people can 
 read. The performances of the natives in vocal mu- 
 sic pleased me, their voices being very soft and mu- 
 sical, though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich 
 Islanders. Their personal appearance, complexion, 
 
382 GOVERNMENT. 
 
 language, and dress are much the same as the natives 
 of those islands. Their advances in the arts and in 
 agriculture, are less than might be expected of them, 
 but in a climate where so many rich fruits vegetate 
 spontaneously, the necessity of cultivation is less im- 
 perious. While the harbor is not as good as that of 
 Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or otherwise to 
 facilitate business, or to aid in repairing the shipping 
 which visit this island. A good public road has been 
 commenced to extend around the island, on which con- 
 victs, instead of being imprisoned, were employed, 
 but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken 
 down. 
 
 The government here is much the same as that of 
 the Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more 
 free and systematized. Their judiciary is well organ- 
 ized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their 
 legislative body is composed of the queen, governors, 
 chiefs, and two representatives from each district of 
 the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo ; the laws when framed 
 are canvassed by the people, and if approved, receive 
 the queen's signature. The young queen, Pomare, is 
 of very prepossessing appearance, possesses talents, 
 and decision of character ; but her views of civiliza- 
 tion are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. 
 
 The American consul at these islands, resides at Pa. 
 peeti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a 
 native and citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly 
 intelligible, and his knowledge of the duties of his of- 
 fice is yet to be acquired. 
 
 The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large 
 islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They 
 are mountainous, and many of the mountains are high 
 and steep, and many of the valleys are deep and 
 
CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS. 383 
 
 narrow, extending far into the interior. To a consider 
 able extent the soil is rich and productive ; oranges 
 and all other tropical fruits being abundant, and re- 
 quiring little labor or care. Such is the indolence of 
 the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides sugar 
 cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well 
 supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of 
 wood equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. 
 The heat for the most part of the year is so oppressive, 
 that though many things are very pleasant, yet these 
 islands come short of the paradise which some jour- 
 nalists have described. 
 
 These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been 
 dimishing in populousness. Various causes, such as 
 the introduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human 
 sacrifices, the means furnished by commerce of ren- 
 dering wars destructive to human life, and the intro- 
 duction of ardent spirits, have all contributed to this 
 end. It is estimated that only about twelve thousand 
 people inhabit the two islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, 
 and about forty thousand both the Georgian and So- 
 ciety group. The introduction of the Christian reli- 
 gion has banished many causes of their decline. 
 
 The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy 
 of remark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and 
 sea bathing, to which they are induced by the climate, 
 and of which they are fond, including all descriptions 
 of persons, and even children, is highly conducive to 
 health, and promotes a taste for neatness in their per- 
 sons not common to heathen nations. 
 
 Wednesday, 18th, I accompanied Mr. Pritchard in 
 his pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, 
 where he preached to a congregation in a village in 
 which the queen has her residence. Queen Pomare 
 
384 PUBLIC FEASTS. 
 
 was present, and an interesting audience appeared to 
 listen as if they were hearing the word to obey it. 
 After the meeting, we pursued our ride about seven 
 miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at Point Venus, a 
 lovely spot situated in orange and banana groves. 
 Our way thither was around the base of hills, and 
 mountains which approached near the beach in pre- 
 cipices, and where the opening through the coral reefs 
 permitted the sea to break on the shore with a noise 
 like thunder, so that we had to watch the opportunity 
 afforded by the receding waves to pass these points. 
 Any horses, but those accustomed to the noise and 
 sight, would have denied us a safe passage. With 
 these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of 
 tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of 
 our common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow 
 laborers from every part of our lost world, and from 
 their different spheres of agency, when their work 
 here is done, shall be gathered to their Father's home 
 in heaven. 
 
 In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard's, on 
 my part delighted with so refreshing an interview. 
 
 During my short stay, the queen and royal family of 
 a neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Ta- 
 hiti. This afforded me a very desirable opportunity 
 of remarking the manners and customs of the people. 
 A public feast was given in honor of the royal visitants ; 
 and the day was ushered in by firing rusty guns, of 
 which they have a very few. The morning until ten 
 o'clock was occupied in collecting together their co- 
 coa nuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c. Many were out 
 to purchase calico scarfs of two or three yards in 
 length to wear in the procession. A very large pro- 
 cession formed, the women taking the lead, and the 
 
FEASTING BOWER. 385 
 
 men following in order. A female with an infant in 
 her arms led the van. This was explained to me as 
 done in honor of mothers ; for here as well as at the 
 Sandwich Islands, women are regarded as in all re- 
 spects on a par with men. All were well attired in 
 European style, their heads adorned tastefully with 
 garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers, with which 
 their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After taking, 
 in single file, a long and circuitous march, they ar- 
 rived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoa- 
 nut, bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the cen- 
 tre, with an infant, sat the royal visitor ; and as they 
 passed, each Tahitian threw down at her feet their 
 scarfs or some other present. It was the pleasure of 
 the queen, however, not long to retain all these tokens 
 of honor, for she seemed happy in generously giving 
 them to others. After the procession had passed in 
 respectful review, next came the refreshments, which 
 were placed, some on the ground, others suspended on 
 boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little 
 circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the 
 social interview. This is considered one of their most 
 joyful holidays, and was managed without noise, con- 
 fusion, or any apparent infraction of the rules of pro- 
 priety. It must be recollected that this is a temperance 
 island ; all traffic in ardent- spirits being prohibited by 
 law. 
 
 In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to 
 mention the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and 
 family, and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other 
 missionaries, and witnessing the interesting fruits of 
 their labors, under the blessing of God. 
 
 Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship's crew 
 in disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the 
 17 
 
386 PREPARING FOR SEA. 
 
 Sandwich Islands, and in re-supplying themselves from 
 the pure mountain streams of this island, and in " ve- 
 getating the ship/ 9 as they phrase it; that is, by col- 
 lecting quantities, which are purchased of the natives, 
 of oranges, bananas, sweet potatoes, limes, cocoanuts 
 in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and squashes. Here 
 I collected for my cabinet, some choice specimens of 
 coral and shells of the ocean, which the natives dive to 
 obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this port. 
 
 On the morning of Saturday, 21st January, we left 
 the harbor of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we 
 sailed around Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely 
 wooded tops and precipitous sides, appeared in full 
 prospect. On this inland there is a high school for the 
 children of the missionary families of the several 
 islands. 
 
 We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 30th, 
 when our latitude was 30° 27' south, and longitude 
 153° 10' west. I was here much gratified to witness 
 the interesting phenomenon of a water-spout. It first 
 became visible to us about half a mile distant as it 
 arose, and at that distance we had no apprehensions of 
 danger from it, and yet it was sufficiently near to give 
 a distinct view. It commenced in a small, dark, and 
 nearly perpendicular column, enlarging its diameter as 
 it rose, until it reached the region of the clouds, when, 
 apparently feeling the influence of the wind, it passed 
 obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view 
 some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, 
 it gradually disappeared. 
 
 On the 4th of February, fresh breezes from the 
 north-west took the place of the south-east trade- winds, 
 and our course was laid E. S. E. 
 
 On the 5th we had strong gales from the west. Put 
 
MAN OVERBOARD HEAVY GALE. 387 
 
 two reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top- 
 sail, and handed the main-sail. The sea was very 
 heavy. On the 9th the wind was more moderate ; 
 and while engaged in spearing porpoises, one of the 
 men fell overboard from the bow, and went directly 
 under the ship, and came up under her stern. The 
 life buoy was thrown over to him, but being an indif- 
 ferent swimmer he was long in his efforts to seize it. 
 By lowering the boat and rounding about the ship, he 
 was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost 
 overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a 
 great variety of occurrences, taken from the world, 
 and the certain knowledge awakens but feeble sensa- 
 tions in our bosoms ; but a solitary case of individual 
 danger and suffering which we witness, arouses all our 
 anxieties and sympathies, and we are grateful when re- 
 lieved by the safety of the sufferer. 
 
 On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. 
 We were in latitude about 47° south, and 120° west 
 longitude. With nearly every sail taken in, we could 
 only run before the wind, which was from the north- 
 west, and the waves were constantly breaking over our 
 bulwarks. Such was the roaring of the wind and 
 breaking waves, that it was difficult for the orders of 
 the captain to be heard, upon his loudest voice, from 
 midship, forward or aft. The wind blew tons of wa- 
 ter into the air and scattered it into ten thousand sprays. 
 I never had such evidence of the power of wind and 
 water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could live 
 in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves, and 
 plunge, and rise again upon the mountain billows. 
 The whole scene was fraught with magnificence, ter- 
 ror, and grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a 
 courageous and experienced captain ; and a sober, ac- 
 
388 HEAVY GALE. 
 
 tive, and obedient crew ; and above all, the protection 
 of Heaven. Two men were constantly at the wheel, 
 selected from our best steersmen. We shipped a great 
 quantity of water, and on the night of the 17th, the fore 
 deck had scarcely at any time, less than a foot, or two 
 feet of water, the waves breaking over faster than the 
 water could pass through the scuppers. Two pumps 
 were at work a large portion of the time to keep the 
 ship clear, so much water was constantly finding its 
 way down the closed hatches and other leakages of the 
 deck. The two men at each pump labored so forcibly, 
 that it was necessary to be relieved by others every 
 three minutes. I reflected on the condition of those 
 who were not prepared for death, and that even to a 
 Christian a quiet death-bed would be preferable to lea- 
 ving the world in such a scene of confusion. But we 
 were spared in great kindness, and the following morn- 
 ing the wind began to abate. Captain Allyn, who had 
 been into most of the principal seas, and around both 
 of the great Capes, said he never saw, except in a ty- 
 phoon which he encountered on the Japan coast, any 
 gale which equalled this. 
 
 The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail 
 and rain until the 28th, when we found we w T ere driven 
 to the 59° of south latitude, and 77° west longitude. 
 This was farther south of Cape Horn than we wished 
 to go. The w T eather was cold and thick, the thermom- 
 eter ranging between 41° and 47° for several days. 
 On the first of March, we saw, for the first time after 
 leaving Tahiti, a sail to the windward heading south- 
 west, but were unable to speak her. It was very 
 pleasant to find our latitude lessening in our home- 
 ward course, though we were not up with the Cape 
 until the third of March. During the gales, and es- 
 
MAGELLANIC CLOUDS. 389 
 
 pecially in stormy weather, our vessel was very fre- 
 quently visited by a bird, which navigators call the 
 Noddy, and which is easily taken with the hand. It 
 is of the Tern genus, twelve inches long, slenderly 
 formed ; its plumage is a dark sooty brown, excepting 
 the top of its head which is dusky white. The Alba- 
 tross also was constantly flying about us, regardless of 
 wind and waves. Our men caught several of them 
 with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon 
 the deck, were four feet high ; their aler measurement 
 was ten feet. Although they are generally of a brown 
 color, yet in the region of Cape Horn, they vary from 
 a mixture of brown and white, to an almost entire 
 white. They are the largest class of the feathered 
 race. 
 
 We had for a long time an opportunity of observing 
 the Magellanic clouds ; which are three in number, 
 two luminous and one black ; about thirty degrees dis- 
 tant from each other, and fixed in their relative situa- 
 tions as are the fixed stars. Although I had noticed 
 them, supposing them to be clouds, and wondering 
 how an illuminated cloud should be seen at all times 
 of the night, and preserve its position with an outline 
 so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my mind 
 was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the 
 mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voy- 
 ages, and who possessed considerable astronomical 
 knowledge, pointed out to me some of their charac- 
 teristics. The weather in these high southern lati- 
 tudes being so uniformly thick and cloudy, prevented 
 our observing them so early, or carefully as we might 
 otherwise have done. They were distinctly visible 
 for weeks, keeping their relative situation, and their 
 altitude above the southern horizon lessening to the 
 
390 AN EAST INDIAMAN. 
 
 beholder, according as his latitude diminished while 
 he proceeded north. The forms of each are about five 
 degrees in diameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly 
 are formed by clusters of stars, so numerous and con- 
 tiguous, and so distant as only to give a glimmering 
 light like luminous clouds, which gives them their 
 name ; and the black one is very probably the entire 
 absence of all light. I gazed at these, night after night, 
 withwonder and admiration. It seemed to me, that 
 looking at the dark one, was looking beyond created 
 nature into infinite space. 
 
 Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape 
 Horn, but most of the time was pleasant and the winds 
 favorable, until the 27th of March, in south latitude 
 32° 27', and west longitude 28° 34', the wind came 
 around to the north, and continued to blow from a 
 northerly direction for ten days, which retarded our 
 progress, and carried us off our course to the east, un- 
 til we were brought into 28° west longitude, where we 
 changed our course west by north. On the first of 
 April we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very 
 large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, 
 well filled with men, women and children, who proba- 
 bly were passengers for New Holland. This was the 
 first ship we had spoken after the Spartan, near the 
 line on the other side of the continent. It is difficult 
 to imagine how pleasant it is to see and speak a ship, 
 after having been months at sea. A few hours after, 
 we saw another East Indiaman, but did not speak her. 
 By falling in with these ships, we found we were so 
 near Africa, that we were in the track of ships from 
 Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 The same day we buried one of the seamen in the 
 great deep. He was a man who in early life was 
 
MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS. 391 
 
 trained up in the care of pious parents, but whose after 
 life was marked by vices, which in their consequences 
 led to a comparatively early death. It was a solemn 
 scene when we committed his remains to the water 
 grave. The colors were raised half mast, the whole 
 ship's company collected around ; the body, with 
 weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the gang- 
 way ; and we paused to dwell for a moment on death 
 and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a 
 few remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a 
 prayer, the plank was gently moved over the side of 
 the ship, and the dead disappeared to be seen no 
 more. 
 
 On the 2d, we made Martin Vass Islands, which are 
 five in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, 
 without any soil ; some of them are cones, shooting 
 up four or five hundred feet. Two are very small and 
 needle pointed. They are all so precipitous, and the 
 sea constantly breaking against them, that there is no 
 landing. Their forms are fantastical ; one of them 
 having the appearance of a fortification with bastions, 
 about which are needle points resembling men on 
 guard. They are in 20° 31' south latitude, and 28° 
 38' west longitude. By changing our course more 
 westerly we made Trindad, off against St. Roque, 
 which is an island of considerable size, and in latitude 
 20° 28', and longitude 29° 5 ; . Near evening we were 
 fifteen miles from it, and wishing to land in the morn- 
 ing, we took in sail and lay off for the night. Some 
 Portuguese once settled upon it, but it is so difficult of 
 access, that they abandoned it, and it is now without 
 any inhabitants. 
 
 On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within 
 three miles of the island, and manned three boats to go 
 
392 EVENING AT SEA. 
 
 on shore ; but finding no place free from breakers, 
 gave up the attempt, caught a few fish near the shores, 
 and after being much annoyed with flies which came 
 off to us, we returned to the ship, and with a fa- 
 vorable breeze pursued our course. This island is also 
 volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and is mountainous, 
 the highest part of which is about fifteen hundred, or 
 two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for multi- 
 tudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large. 
 I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the 
 man-of-war hawk. They are numerous here, and 
 while they are handsome, they are also ravenous, al- 
 ways taking their prey upon the wing. There were 
 many of the perfectly silky white species of the Tern, 
 which hovered over us with great tameness, as though 
 they wished to form an acquaintance with us, not sus- 
 pecting any hostility. 
 
 Most of our nights, as well as days, for a long time 
 were clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable 
 brightness. What has been described by others of 
 evenings at sea, in the southern hemisphere, I had an 
 opportunity of observing with admiration. The rich- 
 est colors of red, orange, and yellow, are spread over 
 the western sky after the setting sun, and often over 
 the whole concave of heaven. No pencil of art can 
 imitate the tints and hues which blend in softness over 
 this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can lay on 
 these delicate shades, and add to them the brilliancy, 
 ever varying, of so much richness and splendor. 
 
 In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the 
 few which came under our observation, the dorado, or 
 as commonly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish ex- 
 celled in the beauty of their colors. The former, 
 when taken upon deck, constantly changed its colors 
 
PLYING PISH. 393 
 
 from the bright purple to the gold, the bluish green, 
 and the silver white, and these spreading out into van- 
 ishing shades. The pilot fish is equally beautiful, but 
 is singular in the choice of company and employment ; 
 always being found with the shark, and conducting 
 him to his prey, from w T hich it derives its name. 
 
 The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers 
 for occupying both air and water, but finds no friend 
 in either ; pursued by the porpoise, or the dolphin, or 
 some other fish, it swims with all speed until it can no 
 longer escape its destructive enemy, and then takes to 
 flight in the air, where the albatross and the man-of- 
 war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its flight 
 it often falls upon the decks of ships where man shows 
 it no mercy. 
 
 On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a 
 few days we had calms or only light wind with show- 
 ers. The heat was very intense, and to be becalmed 
 under these circumstances is more to be dreaded than 
 gales. But we were much favored, and soon found 
 ourselves in north latitude, and it was with sensations 
 of delight that I again beheld the North star, though 
 but just above the horizon. I hailed it as the harbin- 
 ger of good, and an indication that I was fast ap- 
 proaching my long desired home and friends. 
 
 All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, 
 and the gulf weed, which was seen in great abundance 
 before we came to the gulf-stream, was observed with 
 no small interest. It is an aquatic plant of a peculiar 
 light green color, and floats upon the surface of the 
 water. We entered and passed the stream on the 
 14th of May, in 36° 37' north latitude ; and though a 
 rough sea is generally expected here, yet we had a very 
 
 17* 
 
394 LAND DESCRIED. 
 
 pleasant time. The current is at the rate of three 
 miles an hour, and the temperature seven degrees 
 warmer than the adjacent water. 
 
 On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we 
 were cheered with the cry from the man at the mast 
 head, "Land ho! ahead" It proved to be Block 
 Island. We came in sight of the light-house in the 
 evening, but too late to attempt to get into the harbor 
 before morning, and therefore lay off for the night. In 
 the morning we found ourselves among various ship- 
 ping bound to different ports. We passed Montauk 
 Point and drew near to New London, where the sight 
 of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country 
 around, and the islands dressed in green, were most 
 grateful, especially to one so long conversant with hea- 
 then countries and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed 
 up the Thames to the city, and I rejoiced to land once 
 more upon Christian and civilized shores, my native 
 land, my country ! In taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt 
 it due to the captain and crew to say, that I received 
 from them every kind attention I could wish, and it be- 
 ing a temperance ship, I did not hear a profane word 
 from any while on board. We had public worship, du- 
 ring the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of God 
 was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the sa- 
 ving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in 
 New London, and after arranging my business, di- 
 rected my way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d 
 of May, after an absence of more than two years and 
 tw r o months, and having accomplished a journey of 
 twenty-eight thousand miles. 
 
THE SEASONS. 395 
 
 I have in several places made mention of the supe- 
 rior mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, and that the seasons are divided into the wet and 
 dry ; the rainy season commencing about the first of 
 November, and the dry about the first of May. The 
 following Meteorological Table, which was taken with 
 care, will give a general specimen. 
 
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
 397 
 
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398 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
 399 
 
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400 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 401 
 
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402 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 403 
 
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404 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 
 
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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 405 
 
 
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VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. 
 
 Several gentlemen of erudition, who have profess- 
 edly investigated the languages of the American In- 
 dians, have given it as their opinion that they are all 
 traceable to four roots. But I am confident, from the 
 opportunities I have had to examine the languages of 
 many different nations, that the opinion is entirely un- 
 founded. The following vocabularies are given as 
 specimens of difference in the languages of four na- 
 tions in Oregon. The languages of other nations are 
 equally distinct. 
 
 
 NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE. 
 
 nglish. 
 
 Indian, 
 
 God, 
 
 hemakis Tota. 
 
 Spirit, 
 
 koonapa. 
 
 Father, 
 
 tota. 
 
 Man, 
 
 hama. 
 
 Woman, 
 
 iat. 
 
 Mother, 
 
 peka. 
 
 Child, 
 
 meaits. 
 
 Brother, 
 
 uskeep. 
 
 Sister, 
 
 axsip. 
 
 Husband, 
 
 hama. 
 
 Wife, 
 
 waipna. 
 
408 
 
 
 NEZ PERCE. 
 
 I, 
 
 
 en. 
 
 Thou, 
 
 
 em. 
 
 He, 
 
 
 emim. 
 
 She, 
 
 
 aiat. 
 
 It, 
 
 
 ke. 
 
 They, 
 
 
 elahne tetokan. 
 
 People, 
 
 
 tetokan. 
 
 Heaven, 
 
 
 accompenaka. 
 
 Earth, 
 
 
 waitush. 
 
 Water, 
 
 
 coos. 
 
 Fire, 
 
 
 aula. 
 
 Snow, 
 
 
 maika. 
 
 Rain, 
 
 
 waikit. 
 
 Wood, 
 
 
 haitsu. 
 
 Grass, 
 
 
 pax. 
 
 Hell, or 
 
 bad spirit, 
 
 koonapa kapseish. 
 
 Horse, 
 
 
 shecum. 
 
 White Bear, 
 
 hahats. 
 
 Black Bear, 
 
 eakat. 
 
 Beaver, 
 
 
 taxpull. 
 
 Otter, 
 
 
 collas. 
 
 Deer, 
 
 
 enishnim. 
 
 Moose, 
 
 
 taissheep. 
 
 Buffalo, 
 
 
 cocoil. 
 
 Wolf, 
 
 
 siyah. 
 
 Salmon, 
 
 
 natso. 
 
 Trout, 
 
 
 wowalthum* 
 
 Gun, 
 
 
 temoon. 
 
 Powder, 
 
 
 popokes. 
 
 Ball, 
 
 
 saip. 
 
 Stone, 
 
 
 pishwa. 
 
 What is 
 
 that? 
 
 etu ke. 
 
 Who is 
 
 that? 
 
 eshe ke. 
 
 There, 
 
 
 koone. 
 
NEZ PERCE. 
 
 Here, 
 
 kene. 
 
 Where, 
 
 mene. 
 
 When, 
 
 mowwa. 
 
 How many ? 
 
 moits. 
 
 None, 
 
 siou. 
 
 All, 
 
 oekalla. 
 
 Plenty, 
 
 elahne. 
 
 Near by, 
 
 keemta. 
 
 Great way off, 
 
 wyat. 
 
 This road, 
 
 iskit. 
 
 Stop, 
 
 collo. 
 
 Go, 
 
 ccetuc. 
 
 Run, 
 
 willaikit. 
 
 Go fast, 
 
 haum teets. 
 
 Stop here, 
 
 collo kene. 
 
 Encamp, 
 
 wispeix. 
 
 Sleep, 
 
 penemeek. 
 
 Eat, 
 
 hipsh. 
 
 I hear, 
 
 en amachish. 
 
 You hear, 
 
 em amachish. 
 
 I understand, 
 
 en amacus. 
 
 Come, 
 
 come. 
 
 I know, 
 
 en soko. 
 
 You know, 
 
 em soko. 
 
 He knows, 
 
 emim soko. 
 
 They know, 
 
 tetokan soko. 
 
 I do not know, 
 
 waiitu en soko, 
 
 Talk, 
 
 tumtein. 
 
 Ride, 
 
 wyatcus. 
 
 Wait, 
 
 coats. 
 
 Swim, 
 
 shuway. 
 
 Love, 
 
 aitou. 
 
 Hate, 
 
 waiitu aitou. 
 
 Kill, 
 
 wapseou. 
 
 18 
 
 
 409 
 
410 
 
 
 NEZ PERCE. 
 
 Alive, 
 
 waikus. 
 
 Make, 
 
 ainees. 
 
 Take, 
 
 enip. 
 
 Carry, 
 
 enip coeta. 
 
 Give, 
 
 enahanim. 
 
 Pay, 
 
 tumaitcus. 
 
 Make fire, 
 
 ailix. 
 
 Worship, 
 
 tolla poosa. 
 
 Smoke, 
 
 keieta. 
 
 Sun, moon, 
 
 hasumtooks. 
 
 Prairie, 
 
 paix. 
 
 Mountain, 
 
 mashum. 
 
 Friend, 
 
 sextua. 
 
 Chief, 
 
 meohot. 
 
 Nez Perce 
 
 numepo. 
 
 Flathead, 
 
 sailep. 
 
 Blackfoot, 
 
 quasne. 
 
 Bonnax, 
 
 tuelca. 
 
 American, 
 
 sueapo. 
 
 Indian, 
 
 tete teluit. 
 
 Frenchman 
 
 alllma. 
 
 Head, 
 
 hooshus. 
 
 Hair, 
 
 hookoo. 
 
 Arm, 
 
 artum. 
 
 Leg, 
 
 waiu. 
 
 Foot, 
 
 akooa. 
 
 Cloth, 
 
 tahea. 
 
 Saddle, 
 
 supen sapoos 
 
 Pack, 
 
 supen saps. 
 
 Beads, 
 
 collowin. 
 
 Good, 
 
 tois. 
 
 Bad, 
 
 kapseis. 
 
 No, 
 
 waiitu. 
 
 Yes, 
 
 ai. 
 
NEZ PERCE — KLICATAT. 
 
 411 
 
 Great, 
 
 Small, 
 
 Sick, 
 
 Well, 
 
 To-day, 
 
 Yesterday, 
 
 Once more, 
 
 White, 
 
 Black, 
 
 Red, 
 
 Vermilion, 
 
 Paint, 
 
 1 nox. 
 
 2 lapeet. 
 
 3 metait. 
 
 4 peelep. 
 
 5 pahut. 
 
 6 elaix. 
 
 7 quoenapt. 
 
 8 wemuttut. 
 
 9 quoies, 
 
 hemakis. 
 
 coots. 
 
 comitsa. 
 
 penamina. 
 
 tax. 
 
 watish. 
 
 nox emaka. 
 
 hihi. 
 
 cinmo cimmeo, 
 
 ilpelp. 
 
 ailish. 
 
 penasuet. 
 
 10 poetumpt. 
 
 1 1 nox tit. 
 
 12 lapeet tit. 
 
 20 laap tit. 
 
 30 metaip tit. 
 
 40 pelap tit. 
 
 50 pahap tit. 
 
 100 pooetap tit. 
 
 VOCABULARY OF THE KLICATAT NATION WHO INHABIT 
 THE COUNTRY NORTH OF THE CASCADES. 
 
 nglish. 
 
 Indian. 
 
 God, 
 
 Meyoh. 
 
 Evil spirit, 
 
 melah. 
 
 Sun, 
 
 an. 
 
 Moon, 
 
 ulhigh'. 
 
 Stars, 
 
 kashlo. 
 
 Fire, 
 
 lokkowouks, 
 
412 
 
 > 
 
 KLICATAT. 
 
 Earth, 
 
 te 'tsum. 
 
 Water, 
 
 chow wass. 
 'p's swah. 
 
 Stone, 
 
 Wood, 
 House, 
 
 il quas. 
 enneet. 
 
 Bread, 
 Fish, 
 
 shappleel. 
 t'kuinnat. 
 
 Deer, 
 
 owinnat. 
 
 Bird, 
 
 'hat 'hot. ' 
 
 Cow, 
 
 moos moos stun* 
 
 Horse, 
 
 kosee. 
 
 Dog, 
 
 Boat, 
 Man, 
 
 kosikkosee. 
 
 quassas. 
 
 wince. 
 
 Woman, 
 Girl, 
 
 iyet. 
 p'teeniks. 
 
 Boy, 
 
 Fingers, 
 Foot, 
 
 asswan. 
 
 pahhahtopat. 
 
 wattekas. 
 
 Toe, 
 Tongue, 
 Ear, 
 Mouth, 
 
 owhunghe. 
 
 melleese. [shu. 
 misshu (plu.) pesahmis- 
 mettolla'hhow. 
 
 Lip, 
 Black, 
 
 um, (plu.) pesah urn. 
 chemook. 
 
 White, 
 Green, 
 
 pillas. 
 lahm't. 
 
 Yellow, 
 Red, 
 
 penahkunnootowass. 
 klutsah. 
 
 Good, 
 Bad, 
 
 seyah. 
 chilooeet. 
 
 High, 
 Low, 
 
 'quaahme. 
 metee. 
 
 Many, 
 
 hugh'lak. 
 

 KLICATAT. 
 
 Few, 
 
 millah. 
 
 Little, 
 
 iksiks. 
 
 .Who? 
 
 sindewah. 
 
 What? 
 
 sinmisswah. 
 
 Knife, 
 
 hahbittelme. 
 
 Bow, 
 
 Arrow, 
 
 toominpas. 
 kiasso. 
 
 Gun, 
 Sea, 
 
 toowinpas. 
 attackas. 
 
 River, 
 
 wannah. 
 
 Lake, 
 
 wattum. 
 
 Mountain, 
 
 <ke<h. 
 
 Hill, 
 
 Valley, 
 
 Plain, 
 
 pussque. 
 
 «tkop. 
 
 tak. 
 
 Here, 
 
 itche. 
 
 There, 
 
 ekkone. 
 
 Near, 
 Far off, 
 
 Night, 
 
 'tsahpah. 
 
 weat'tpah. 
 
 «tset. 
 
 Day, 
 Where, 
 
 echoosah. 
 minnan. 
 
 When, 
 
 mittach. 
 
 I walk, 
 
 inikwenahsah.- 
 
 I talk, 
 
 sinewesah. 
 
 None, 
 
 chahow. 
 
 I know, 
 
 assook sah. 
 
 I have known, 
 
 mewe sah sooh sah, 
 
 I see, 
 
 enahukheno sah. 
 
 I hear, 
 
 innasick sah. 
 
 I taste, 
 I smell, 
 
 quatas sah. 
 annookse sah. 
 
 L 
 
 sah. 
 
 Thou, 
 
 imk*. 
 
 413 
 
414 
 
 
 KLICATAT. 
 
 He, 
 
 equak. 
 
 She, 
 
 equakiik. 
 
 Head, 
 
 chlamtukh. 
 
 Eye, 
 
 tats'k. 
 
 Back, 
 
 koopkoop. 
 
 Come, 
 
 winnum. 
 
 Go, 
 
 winnak. 
 
 Give, 
 
 annik. 
 
 Large, 
 
 'nche. 
 
 Smaller, 
 
 mimche. 
 
 Smallest, 
 
 ooksooks. 
 
 Beauty, 
 
 seeghewah. 
 
 All, 
 
 k'lhweek. 
 
 True, 
 
 chawnumsisk 
 
 False, 
 
 t'sis. 
 
 Chief, 
 
 kooHtup. 
 
 Common men, 
 
 wallumteen. 
 
 My father, 
 
 hahtootas. 
 
 My mother, 
 
 naheclas. 
 
 Elder brother, 
 
 nahnahnas. 
 
 Younger brother, 
 
 incoks. 
 
 Sister, 
 
 inchats. 
 
 Husband, 
 
 inman. 
 
 Yes, 
 
 deh. 
 
 No, 
 
 waht. 
 
 Beaver, 
 
 wispus. 
 
 Rabbit, 
 
 sinwe. 
 
 Cat, 
 
 wasswass. 
 
 Wolf, 
 
 enahte. 
 
 Bear, 
 
 'hollees. 
 
 Otter, 
 
 nooksi. 
 
 Laziness, 
 
 ilkkah. 
 
 Sleep, 
 
 'tsotah. 
 
 $oft, 
 
 uquatuquat. 
 
KLICTAT CALAPOOA. 
 
 415 
 
 Strength, 
 
 h'too. 
 
 Swan, 
 
 wahhalow. 
 
 Goat, 
 
 powyanin. 
 
 Beads, 
 
 k'pput. 
 
 Cold, 
 
 'tsoisah. 
 
 Hard, 
 
 k'ttet'k. 
 
 1 lah's, 
 
 12 nlep'twappena, 
 
 2 neep't, 
 
 13 mettaptwappena. 
 
 3 mettapt', 
 
 20 neeptit, 
 
 4 peneep't, 
 
 30 mettaptit, 
 
 5 pahhat, 
 
 40 peneeptit, 
 
 6 p'tuhninis, 
 
 50 pahhaptit, 
 
 7 tooskas, 
 
 60 p'tuhninsaptit, 
 
 8 pahhahhemaht, 
 
 70 tooskahsaptit, 
 
 9 'tsawlawsimkah, 
 
 80 pahhahtusap'tit, 
 
 10 hotem, 
 
 90 'tsaulochsaptit, 
 
 11 lah's wappena, 
 
 100 potemtit. 
 
 VOCABULARY OF THE CALAPOOA NATION. 
 
 God, 
 Heaven, 
 
 Evil Spirit, 
 Hell, 
 
 'ntsompate. 
 ahlupklooah, 
 ehwakehe. 
 owievenah. 
 
 Sun, 
 
 Moon, 
 
 Stars, 
 
 'npeun. 
 'ntope. 
 'ntsalowah. 
 
 Fire, 
 
 ummi. 
 
 Earth, 
 Wind, 
 
 umpullo. 
 'ntolouh. 
 
 Water, 
 Wood, 
 
 'mpahke. 
 owattuk. 
 
416 
 
 
 CALAPQOA. 
 
 Stone, 
 
 'ntaugh. 
 
 Bone, 
 
 'ntsa. 
 
 House, 
 
 ummi*. 
 
 Bread, 
 
 shappleel. 
 
 Fish, 
 
 'ntumuak. 
 
 Deer, 
 
 ammoke'. 
 
 Elk, 
 
 'ntokah. 
 
 Bird, 
 
 noknok. 
 
 Horse, 
 
 kuetan. 
 
 Cow, 
 
 moosmoos. 
 
 Dog, 
 
 'n'tuL 
 
 Boat, 
 
 'mpaw. 
 
 Man, 
 
 'noihee. 
 
 Woman, 
 
 ehwahktsuL 
 
 Boy, 
 
 ehwahpyah* 
 
 Girl, 
 
 'mpeena. 
 
 I, 
 
 tsa. 
 
 Thou, 
 
 mah. 
 
 He, 
 
 annoihe. 
 
 She, 
 
 ahwahkkotsuL 
 
 My father, 
 
 hum nee. 
 
 Your father, 
 
 makkan nee. 
 
 My mother, 
 
 sin nee. 
 
 Elder brother, 
 
 tah. 
 
 Sister, 
 
 shetup. 
 
 Husband, 
 
 tahwahke. 
 
 • Wife, 
 
 tahwahke. 
 
 Yes, 
 
 aw. 
 
 No, 
 
 kussowe. 
 
 Head, 
 
 unquah. 
 
 Mouth, 
 
 tinte. 
 
 Chin, 
 
 'tlak. 
 
 Teeth, 
 
 tinte. 
 
 Arm, 
 
 t'ntooque. 
 

 CALAP OOA. 
 
 Hand, 
 
 t'lakquah. 
 
 Finger, 
 
 taw'nah. 
 
 Foot, 
 
 teuofoh. 
 
 Ear, 
 
 toandunkahtah. 
 
 Black, 
 
 mo*. 
 
 White, 
 
 mow*. 
 
 Blue, 
 
 'mpulunk. 
 
 Green, 
 
 pitchish. 
 
 Red, 
 
 'tselow. 
 
 Good, 
 
 missa 
 
 Bad. 
 
 kaskah. 
 
 High, 
 
 tshamayunk. 
 
 Low, 
 
 wallah. 
 
 Many, 
 
 milloe. 
 
 Few, 
 
 'mponuk. 
 
 Large, 
 
 pellah. 
 
 Small, 
 
 etoo. 
 
 Who, 
 
 me'eh. 
 
 What, 
 
 annikkee. 
 
 Knife, 
 
 'nkamistik. 
 
 Bow, 
 
 unchin. 
 
 Arrow, 
 
 un'owsuk. 
 
 Gun, 
 
 sukwallahlah. 
 
 Sea, 
 
 mullak. 
 
 River, 
 
 *ntsoL 
 
 Lake, 
 
 wassetnummeke. 
 
 Mountain, 
 
 peotahmefook. 
 
 Valley, 
 
 wallah. 
 
 Night, 
 
 mooyoo. 
 
 Day, 
 
 'mpeyon. 
 
 Here, 
 
 m'hash. 
 
 There, 
 
 piefan. 
 
 Near, 
 
 'mchillah. 
 
 Far off, 
 
 m'lokkio. 
 
 417 
 
 18* 
 
18 
 
 CALAPOOA. 
 
 Where, 
 
 mutchoo. 
 
 When, 
 
 tahnondeh. 
 
 To talk, 
 
 tanuk. 
 
 To walk, 
 
 owallowah. 
 
 None, 
 
 *nwa. 
 
 I see, 
 
 chats'onhot'n. 
 
 Beaver, 
 All, 
 
 'nkipeah. 
 teloh. 
 
 Chief, 
 
 'ntsombeek. 
 
 Common men, 
 
 anwoekee. 
 
 Come, 
 
 mahek. 
 
 Go, 
 
 tattea. 
 
 Give, 
 Swan, 
 
 mahaque, 
 mow. 
 
 Rabbit, 
 Wolf, 
 
 umpon. 
 molent. 
 
 Bear, 
 
 *mmo. 
 
 Sleep, 
 Hard, 
 
 towi. 
 'p'tsakkolloo. 
 
 Soft, . 
 Boil, 
 1 towneh, 
 
 'mput'l. 
 liplip. 
 10 teeneefeahah, 
 
 2 kamah, 
 
 3 peshin, 
 
 4 tohwah, 
 
 11 teenefeahpetownah, 
 
 12 teenefeahpekamah, 
 20 keefotenefeah, 
 
 5 wul, 
 
 30 p'shintenefeah, 
 
 6 taffo, 
 
 40 tohwatenefeah, 
 
 7 p'sinmewe, 
 
 50 wultenefeah, 
 
 8 ke'mewe, 
 
 100 tenefeah, 
 
 9 'quisteh, 
 
 1000 tumpeah, 
 
€HENOOK. 
 
 419 
 
 VOCABULARY OF THE CHBNOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN 
 ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER. 
 
 God, 
 
 Cannum. 
 
 Heaven, 
 
 coosah. 
 
 Earth, 
 
 illaha. 
 
 Fire, 
 
 olaptska. 
 
 Water, 
 
 isuck. 
 
 Sea, 
 
 wecoma. 
 
 River, 
 
 ibolt 
 
 Sun, 
 
 otlah. 
 
 Moon, 
 
 ootleum. 
 
 Evil spirit, 
 
 skokoom. 
 
 Hell, 
 
 skokoom. 
 
 Boat, 
 
 conim. 
 
 Knife, 
 
 opitsah. 
 
 Gun, 
 
 sucwallai. 
 
 Powder, 
 
 poolalla. 
 
 Ball, 
 
 colietan. 
 
 Air, 
 
 kummataz. 
 
 I, 
 
 nika. 
 
 Thou, 
 
 mika. 
 
 He, 
 
 yahkah. 
 
 She, 
 
 yahkah. 
 
 It or them, 
 
 klaska. 
 
 Chief, 
 
 tie. 
 
 Boy, 
 
 kaskas. 
 
 Girl, 
 
 1'kpho. 
 
 Sister, 
 
 ahts. 
 
 Father, 
 
 tilecummama. 
 
 Mother, 
 
 st'llmama. 
 
 People, 
 
 tilecum. 
 
 Yes, 
 
 ah, or aha. 
 
420 
 
 
 CHENOOK. 
 
 No, 
 
 wayick, or wake. 
 
 Good, 
 
 close. 
 
 Bad, 
 
 wake close. 
 
 Very bad, 
 
 mestsa. 
 
 Large, 
 
 hias. 
 
 Small, 
 
 tunas. 
 
 Far, 
 
 sia. 
 
 Little way, 
 
 tunas sia. 
 
 Great way, 
 
 Mas sia. 
 
 To go fast, 
 
 clatua hiuc, 
 
 Not fast, 
 
 wake hiuc. 
 
 Black, 
 
 klaait. 
 
 White, 
 
 t'koop. 
 
 Blue, 
 
 spoek, 
 
 Red, 
 
 pelpil. 
 
 Green, 
 
 peteish, 
 
 High, 
 
 saghalle. 
 
 Low, 
 
 kekulle. 
 
 Now, 
 
 witka. 
 
 Much, 
 
 oghooway. 
 
 Little, 
 
 tunas. 
 
 Who, 
 
 nkaksta. 
 
 What, 
 
 ikta. 
 
 Mountain, 
 
 saghalle illaha. 
 
 Valley, 
 
 kekulle illaha* 
 
 Where, 
 
 cah. 
 
 Here, 
 
 ookook 
 
 Night, 
 
 pollakle. 
 
 None, 
 
 haloo. 
 
 Bear, 
 
 siano. 
 
 Beaver, 
 
 eena. 
 
 Fox, 
 
 tiskowkow. 
 
 Wolf, 
 
 leelo. 
 
 Deer, 
 
 moueech. 
 
CHENOOK. 
 
 Horse, 
 
 
 kuetan. 
 
 Cow, 
 
 
 moosmoos. 
 
 Dog, 
 
 
 kamux. 
 
 Salmon, 
 
 
 quanagh. 
 
 Bird, 
 
 
 kallakalla. 
 
 Speak, 
 
 
 wawa. 
 
 I speak, 
 
 
 nica wawa. 
 
 Thou speakest, 
 
 
 mica wawa. 
 
 He speaks, 
 
 
 yakka wawa. 
 
 They speak, 
 
 
 klaska wawa. 
 
 Make, 
 
 
 mammook. 
 
 I make, 
 
 
 nica mammook. 
 
 Thou makest, 
 
 
 mica mammook. 
 
 He makes, 
 
 
 yakka mammook. 
 
 They make, 
 
 
 klaska mammook. 
 
 Come, 
 
 
 chawko. 
 
 Perhaps, or I do not know, clunas. 
 
 Understand, 
 
 
 cumetax. 
 
 I understand, 
 
 
 nica cumetax. 
 
 Now I understand, 
 
 
 alta nica cumetax. 
 
 Sleep, 
 
 
 moosom. 
 
 I have, or it is with 
 
 me, 
 
 mitlit nica. 
 
 I walk, 
 
 
 nica clatuwa. 
 
 Long ago, 
 
 
 aunacotta. 
 
 See, 
 
 
 noneneech. 
 
 Eat, 
 
 
 mucamuc. 
 
 1 eght, 
 
 8 
 
 stoghtkin, 
 
 2 moxt, 
 
 9 
 
 quiitz, 
 
 3 none, 
 
 10 
 
 taughlelum, 
 
 4 'lakit, 
 
 30 
 
 moxttaghlelum, 
 
 5 quinum, 
 
 40 
 
 'lakittaghlelum, 
 
 6 tohhum, 
 
 100 
 
 taughlelum taughle 
 
 7 sinnamox, 
 
 
 
 421 
 
422 REMARKS. 
 
 The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the 
 languages, in the foregoing vocabularies, will notice 
 how entirely distinct they are from each other, and he 
 may form his own opinion in regard to their origin. 
 The languages of other Indian nations are equally dis- 
 tinct. The use of the commas, as in '&e'A, mountain ; 
 l noihee, man ; is designed to designate a gutteral sound 
 wholly inarticulate. 
 
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