Glass Dfil^ 
 Book .Ul^ . 
 
JOURNEY 
 
 INTO 
 
 SOUTH WALES, 
 
 THROUGH THE COUNTIES OF 
 
 OXFORD, WARWICK, WORCESTER, HEREFORD, 
 
 SALOP, STAFFORD, BUCKINGHAM, 
 
 AND HERTFORD; 
 
 IN THE YEAR I799« 
 
 By GEORGE LIPSCOMB, Efq. 
 
 *' All travel has its advantages. If the paflenger vifits better 
 M countries, he may learn to improve his own; and if fortune carries 
 " him to worfe— he may learn to enjoy it." 
 
 " Far from me and my friends be fuch frigid philofophy as may 
 " conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has 
 * been dignified by wifdom, bravery, and virtue." 
 
 JOHNSON. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED B7 A. STRAHAN PRINTERS STREET, 
 
 FOR T. N. LONGMAN & O. REE3, PATERNOSTER-ROW, 
 
 802. 
 

TO 
 THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 HORATIO, 
 
 VISCOUNT AND BARON NELSON 
 
 OF THE NILE, 
 
 AND OF BURNHAM THORPE 
 
 IN THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK; 
 
 DUKE OF BRONTE, IN SICIIT. 
 
 KNIGHT OF THE MOST HONOURABLE 
 
 ORDER OF THE BATH; 
 
 VICE ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE SQUADRON OF 
 
 His majesty's fleet; 
 
 GRAND CROSS OF THE SICILIAN ORDER OF 
 ST. FERDINAND AND OF MERIT ; 
 
 KNIGHT OF THE IMPERIAL TURKISH ORDER 
 
 OF THE CRESCENT; 
 
 KNIGHT, GRAND COMMANDER OF 
 
 THE EQUESTRIAN, SECULAR, AND CAPITULAR 
 
 ORDER OF ST. JOACHIM OF WIRTEMBERG. 
 
 MY LORD, 
 
 X he refpedl which every 
 
 true Englishman mud entertain for 
 
 the moft confpicuous ornament of 
 
 his 
 
 n 
 
DEDICATION, VI 
 
 his country, and for one, to whofe 
 valour and fuccefs all Europe is in- 
 debted for the bleiiings of Peace, 
 firft prompted me to defire an 
 opportunity of expreffing publicly 
 thefe fentiments of my regard and 
 veneration. 
 
 Your Lordfhip has politely con- 
 defcended to permit me to infcribe 
 this little book with your illuftrious 
 and memorable name: I embrace, 
 therefore* fo proper an occaiion to 
 remark that the liberty of dedicating 
 literary performances to illuftrious 
 perfonages is highly beneficial, be- 
 caufe it enables us at once to hold 
 up to the view of pofterity fit ex- 
 amples for their guide and imitation; 
 and to excite in living merit that 
 
 vir- 
 
DEDICATION. V 
 
 virtuous emulation which may en- 
 title it to fimilar memorials of pub- 
 lic efteem and gratitude. 
 
 When I contemplate your Lord- 
 fhip's character, I am at a lofs for 
 words to convey the various fenfa- 
 tions whigh arife in my mind at 
 Courage the moft intrepid, Calmnefs 
 the moft prudent, Wifdom the moft 
 consummate, and Humanity the rnoft 
 benignant. 
 
 Whether I view you, my Lord, 
 leading the hardy fons of Britain to 
 conqueft and to glory, — animating 
 them, by the iirmnefs of your 
 conduct,* — defying danger, without 
 rafhnefs, — and ferene, amidft the din 
 of battle : or fee you triumphantly re- 
 turning at the head of a vi&orious 
 a band, 
 
Vl DEDICATION. 
 
 band, — not vain, with fucceffes even 
 the moft brilliant ; not proud, of 
 fchemes the beft concerted, and en- 
 tirely your own, but, with an afped 
 glowing with benignity, and exhi- 
 biting at once, the bravery of Alex- 
 ander, and the humility of Scipio! 
 Whether I obferve you furrounded 
 by admiring countrymen, who greet 
 with honeft and unaffe&ed joy the 
 return of their great deliverer; — 
 fee you receiving at the hands of 
 Kings the higheft honours and dif- 
 tin&ions which grateful monarchs 
 can beftow ; — or view the mild be- 
 nevolence, the foft humanity with 
 which the man before whofe pre- 
 fence even heroes have trembled, 
 prote&s the weak and affifls the dif- 
 
 treffed* 
 
DEDICATION. Vu 
 
 treffed, I am loft in aftonifhment, 
 delight and ^xtacy ; and grieve that 
 the powers of language are fo in- 
 adequate to fuch a theme. 
 
 A few of thofe excellent qualities, 
 in the fame degree in which your 
 Lordfhip poffefies them, for the 
 happinefs of civilized fociety, the 
 peculiar honour of your country, 
 and your own glory ; — even one of 
 them would be fufficient to immor- 
 talize any name j-^-their union forms 
 a chaplet around your brow which 
 dazzles all men by its fublime re- 
 fulgence, and fets competition at 
 defiance ! 
 
 It challenges the hiftory of the 
 
 world to produce its equal, through 
 
 the ages which are paft ; and fliines 
 
 a 2 like 
 
V1U DEDICATION. 
 
 like a brilliant conftellation to illu- 
 mine the generations to come. 
 
 When in the following pages I 
 have attempted to recall to the reader 
 the characters of illuftrious heroes 
 long numbered with the mighty 
 dead, he will form a jufter eftima- 
 tion of their bravery and their worth, 
 by the criterion of your Lordfhip's 
 great example. 
 
 When the favage atchievements 
 of ancient warriors are depicted, 
 how happily will he oppofe to their 
 barbarous ferocity the calm, intre- 
 pid, manly, generous conduct of the 
 Hero of the Nile, and of the eigh- 
 teenth century. 
 
 When he reads- the names of 
 Hampden and of Sidney, he will 
 
 recog- 
 
DEDICATION. 1X 
 
 recognize in your Lordfhip the 
 friend of freedom, the defender of 
 rational liberty, and the enemy of 
 
 oppreffion. 
 
 When he traces the author's ago- 
 nizing feelings in the caufe of fuf- 
 feiing humanity, he will gratefully 
 revere that patriot whofe vvifdom and 
 energy have fo much contributed 
 to reftore to us the invaluable bleff- 
 ings of tranquillity and peace: 
 
 And when he admires the com- 
 mercial importance, the agricultural 
 improvements, the juridical advan- 
 tages, the domeftic fecurity of our 
 native land, he will rightly appre- 
 ciate the benefits which have been 
 derived to it from the exertions of 
 a gallant commander, whofe life has 
 a 3 been 
 
X . DEDICATION. 
 
 been one conftant fcene of laborious 
 activity in the defence, the fervice, 
 and the protection of his country. 
 
 Impreffed with thefefentiments, I 
 prefume to offer to your Lordfhip's 
 candour the following pages ; and 
 beg leave to affure you that I enjoy 
 great pleafure and great pride in 
 thus prefenting to you the homage 
 of my profoundeft refped, and of 
 thus celebrating your illuftrious 
 name with the beft praifes of my pen, 
 
 I have the Honour to be, 
 
 MY LORD, 
 
 YOUR LORDSHIP'S 
 Mofl: obedient and obliged fervant^ 
 
 GEORGE LIPSCOMEL 
 
 Birmingham, 
 $ej)t. 5/1892. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 When I firft committed to paper the ob- 
 fervations which have been fince prefented 
 to the public, under the title of " A Jour- 
 ney into Cornwall, &c/' it is right for 
 me to acknowledge, that I neither enter- 
 tained an intention of publifhing them, nor 
 encouraged the vanity of fuppofing that 
 my remarks would at all imprefs the private 
 circle, for which they were defigned, with 
 any more favourable idea of me, than that 
 I was defirous of proving to my friends, 
 that the recollection of their kindnefs and 
 partiality, could neither be effaced by time, 
 nor worn out by length of abfence. The 
 letters which contained thofe remarks, im- 
 perceptibly acquired a certain degree of 
 bulk, and, having been thewn to different 
 perfons, in various fituations of life, I was 
 a 4 foiicited 
 
XU PREFACE. 
 
 fclicited by many of them to publifh fuch 
 extracts from thofe letters, as, when con- 
 nected, might at once exhibit a view of the 
 face of the country over which I had tra- 
 velled, and convey fome idea of the gene- 
 ral tendency of the correfpondence in which 
 I had been engaged. 
 
 Although I can not boaft of having en* 
 joyed many opportunities, or much leifure, 
 for antiquarian refearches, nor of having 
 minutely illuftrated the hiftory of any of 
 the places mentioned in that book, I flat- 
 ter myfelf, that the ftridl veracity every 
 where obferved in the defcriptions, and the 
 attention with which I have endeavoured 
 to difcriminate, between the truth of hif- 
 tory, and the legendary impofitions of ro-» 
 mance, have rendered my publication at 
 leaft as refpeftable in the rank to which it 
 belongs, as thofe which are placed on the 
 fame ihelf of the library ; for while its Au~ 
 thor afpires not to the dignity of an Hifto- 
 riatiy he has the fatisfadion of being con- 
 
 fcious 
 
PREFACE. Xlii 
 
 fcious that he has, here and there, fug- 
 gefted a hint, not unworthy of being at- 
 tended to, by thofe who w r alk in that dif- 
 tinguiihed path ; and that there is nothing 
 contained in his performance, which was 
 intended to feed credulity, or to counte- 
 nance error. 
 
 The hurry in which excurfions of this 
 nature are frequently undertaken, and the 
 rapidity w r ith which they are performed, 
 may often deny the means of acquiring 
 very particular or minute information ; but 
 this affords no excufe for erroneous ftate- 
 ments, much lefs for wilful deviations from 
 truth. 
 
 To me, who have no pretenfions to an- 
 tiquarian importance, it has always ap- 
 peared a defirable object, that the topogra- 
 phical defcriptions of our native country 
 mould be rendered z$ complete as poffible ; 
 and every day which now prefents us with 
 important improvements, in all the arts of 
 life, and with difcoveries in fcience, which 
 
 enoblc 
 
XIV PREFACE. 
 
 cnoble the name of Britain, and render this 
 country of more and more importance in 
 the eyes of furrounding nationSj convinces 
 me of the advantages derivable from fuch a 
 fcheme. 
 
 The indefatigable labours of many gen- 
 tlemen of diftinguifhed learning and abili- 
 ties, have been directed to our provincial 
 hiftories, which will become of ftill greater 
 importance to pofterity, in proportion to 
 the increafe of opplence, the extenfion of 
 commerce, and the improvement of fcience. 
 It is not, however, included in the nature 
 of the plan ufualiy adopted by the hifto- 
 rlan, to particularize thofe more fuperfi- 
 cial features of the country, which are the 
 moft liable to change, and the firft which 
 ftrike a cafual obferver. Befides, the fize 
 and price of county hiftories neceflarily ex.- 
 ck des. from among their readers men of 
 bufmefs, and perfons of very moderate in?- 
 comes ; — it may alfo be obferved, and I 
 hope without offence to the learning of the 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 age, that there is at leaft one clafs of read- 
 ers, to whom the perufal of thefe volumi- 
 nous compilations would be infuperably 
 irkfome and difagreeable, although it is of 
 the higheft importance to the welfare and 
 improvement of the riling generation, and 
 of all pofterity, that the laudable regard 
 which that clafs has manifefted of late 
 years, for the cultivation of literature, 
 fhould be cherifhed with the moft anxi- 
 ous folicitude. It will be immediately 
 perceived, that I allude to the ladies of 
 Great Britain^ to whom not even a pedant 
 could think of prefcribing the arduous tafk 
 pf perufing folios; and from whom not 
 even an antiquarian could think of feclud- 
 ing that moft important among Englifh ftu- 
 dies — the knowledge of the local hiftory, 
 and general features of a country, whofe 
 brighteft ornaments they are. 
 
 To fuch, therefore, who either want 
 Jeifure or inclination to ftudy, the elaborate 
 performance of a Dugdale^ a Hutchins, a, 
 
 Colliiifetii 
 
xvi Preface. 
 
 Cclllnfon^ or a Shaw ; — who have not that 
 hiiloric ardour which can give a relifh to 
 the dry formality of Hearn^ Carew, or Plot 
 — the tourift, who, without pretending to 
 minutiae, is correct in his relations, and 
 faithful in the defcriptions of the fcenes 
 prefented, may offer his more humble per- 
 formances with fome fort of claim to an 
 acknowledgment that his labours are not 
 entirely ufelefs, nor unimportant. 
 
 So far as thofe labours may tend to the 
 inftruction of fuch as are excluded the 
 higher walks of literature— to the informa- 
 tion of thofe who are interefted in the ge- 
 neral appearance of the country, or to the 
 advantage or amufement of thofe, who 
 have a tafte for rural fcenes, or a predi- 
 lection for picturefque beauty, — -the ap- 
 pearance of nature in the lovelinefs of un- 
 reftramed vegetation, and untortured ele- 
 gance ; and of art, in the magnificence of 
 its ancient grandeur, or the corre&nefs of 
 its modern improvements: — to thofe who, 
 
 though 
 
PREFACE. XV11 
 
 though they may not feel any extraordi- 
 nary emotions at the fight of a rufty fhield, 
 or a corroded ftatue, can rejoice in the 
 triumphs of civilization over barbarity, and 
 the eftablifhment of freedom on the ruins 
 of defpotifm ; — who, though they may not 
 greatly regret the defolation of mouldering 
 towers, which have only been the fcenes of 
 captivity and aflaffination, can recognize in 
 their ruins the native ferocity of our unpo- 
 liflied anceftors, and from thence deduce 
 an awful comparifon between the favage 
 licentioufnefs of gothic tyranny, and the 
 mild bleffinga of fcience and philofophy, — 
 the writings of the topographer may be 
 very properly, and indeed laudably, ad- 
 drefTed. 
 
 It is no more in the power of one man, 
 or of any one fet of men, to complete a 
 general defcription of the furface of the 
 country, than it is to confolidate the pro- 
 vincial hiftories into a general view:— • 
 many and many new labourers mull be 
 
 found ; 
 
XVlll PREFACE. 
 
 found ; many, and many new efforts muft 
 be made, before we fhall have obtained 
 any thing like a perfect collection of de- 
 fcriptions,— -but the general benefit which 
 would refult from the completion of the 
 plan, is ftill the fame : and the endeavour 
 to complete it,' fhould no more be objected 
 to, becaufe different tourifts may happen 
 to travel over the fame ground, than the 
 endeavours of hiftorians to elucidate parti- 
 cular facts, fhould be difcouraged, becaufe 
 thofe facts have been previoufly introduced 
 in the hiftory of another diftrict, or a dif- 
 ferent part of the country. 
 
 If any of the purchafers of my former 
 publications fhould be induced to caft their 
 eyes over the following ,pages, they will 
 perceive, that in the prefent work I have 
 not altogether fuperficially obferved all the 
 places mentioned, but where my time al- 
 lowed me, have introduced a greater por- 
 tion of local hiftory, than in the Journey 
 
 into Cornwall, accompanied with Monu- 
 mental 
 
PREFACE. XIX 
 
 mental Infcriptions, always copied by my- 
 felf on the fpot. 
 
 The latter part of the tour which con- 
 tains a defcription of Buckingham/hire has 
 been incorporated into this work out of the 
 due order in which the obfervations were 
 made, and which was originally under- 
 taken by way of collecting, for a more per- 
 fect hiftory, of the three hundreds of AJh- 
 ingdon, in that county, than has yet been 
 attempted. The minutiae may be objected 
 to by fome ; but they will be at leaft in- 
 terefting to the inhabitants of the neigh- 
 bourhood defcribed : and the Author may, it 
 is hoped, be forgiven, for the reafonable wifli 
 of illuftrating the hiftory of places in which 
 he patTed the firft years of his life. 
 
 I did not judge it expedient, in a work 
 
 of this nature, to infert the authorities on 
 
 which the hiftorical remarks are founded; 
 
 and, for the fame reafon, I have forborne 
 
 to clog the text with notes ; hoping that 
 
 the moft faftidious among thofe, who fhall 
 3 conde- 
 
XX PREFACE. 
 
 condefcend to read this little book, will not, 
 for want of thofe clogs, fay of it what a 
 certain captious Antiquary has infinuated 
 againft a very refpe&able Tourift, that it is 
 fuch a book as it is fafhionable to write, 
 but from which it would be unfafe to quote 
 a fmgle page. 
 
 Thofe who travel in their clofets, or thofe 
 who prefume thus to dogmatize, may in- 
 dulge as long as they pleafe in the fplenetic 
 effufions of contumely, but they will not 
 induce the prefent enlightened age to refped: 
 fuch miferable critics as the arbiters of tafte. 
 Their gloomy ideas are net fo congenial to 
 the liberality and tollerance of the times, — 
 their antiquarian pedantry is not fo attrac- 
 tive,— -their indifcriminate abufe is not fo 
 implicitly regarded, as to deter us from the 
 laudable undertaking of endeavouring to 
 benefit, to improve, or to entertain ;— nor 
 will they prevail on the generality of read- 
 ers to forfake the pleafant and flowery path 
 of mifcellaneous hiftory, for the rugged and 
 
 dreary 
 
PREFACE, XXI 
 
 dreary track which themfelves' point out as 
 the only direct road to knowledge and im- 
 provement. 
 
 After having fo frequently folicited, and 
 fo uniformly experienced the liberality of 
 a generous public, who condefcended to 
 encourage even my earlieft and humbleft 
 efforts in the fields of literature, and of fci- 
 ence, it would ill become me to defpair of 
 equal candour, or equal kindnefs, I pre- 
 fent this little work, with a fincere defire, 
 that the pains which I have taken to ren- 
 der it worthy of public favour, may nor have 
 been beftowed in vain : and my regard for 
 the welfare and happinefs of fociety, fo in- 
 finitely overbalances every interefted or per- 
 fonal idea, that if a fingle fentence herein 
 contained has any evil tendency, I fhall be 
 the firft perfon to rejoice at the work's be- 
 ing difcountenanced. 
 
 CON- 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 On the Effects of the different Difpcjitions of Travellers.— On 
 Wit and Learning mi/applied. — On Ill-Humour t~~On Criti- 
 fifm, 'with a <wprd to the Reviewers. Page t 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 journey from London to Vxbridge, in a Stage Coach.— Wy^ 
 combe. — Oxford.— Walk to Wood/lock. — Blenheim.— A Fu- 
 neral—Reading a neceffary Qualification in a Clergyman.— 
 Death. 15 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Old JVoodfiock. — Heythorpe. — Enfione. — Stratford on Avon* — 
 Shake/pear. 30 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Alcejler. — Ragley* — Droitivich. — Salt-Springs.— Approach to 
 Worcefer. 40 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 City, Cathedral Church, and Bridge of Worcejler. 44 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 €t Severn 1 s famed Meads." — Malvern Village, Hill, and 
 
 Bath.— Morton Caftle. 5* 
 
 bz CHAP, 
 
XXIV CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Ledbury in Hereford/hire.— -Firzons.~-*>Stoke Court .-—Morde* 
 ford. — Fovonhope, — ProfpeSis, — Man of Rofs, — The Wye, 
 — Hijlory of the Dragon of Mordeford, — and of other Dra- 
 gons* — River Lug. Page 62 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Hereford. — Cathedral. — Monuments of the old Prelates, — Site 
 of the Cajile, 77 
 
 CHAP IX. 
 
 White-Crofs. — Foxley. — Lady -lift, — Value of Cyder. — Lyons 9 
 Hall. — Scenery on approaching the Principality , — Eyvjood.—— 
 Reception at Prefeign. 85 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Breftiign* — Church, — Anecdote,— "Warden-Walks. — Weobly 
 Camp. — Profpecls, — Emigration of the Welch Peafantry,. 
 
 9* 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Views. — New Radnor, — The Cajile. — Remarkable Cafcade, — 
 Mountainous Country.— L land egles Wells, — Penny bont. — 
 R hyader-goivy, —Red Lion Inn, 1 04. 
 
 CHAP XII. 
 
 Crofs the River Wye, — Mountain. — Defert. — Bogs,— Preci- 
 pices, — Promontories. — Lead-Mine, 1 1 6 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Hafod. — Cafcades, — Walks. — Bridges. — Kitchen Garden, — 
 
 '-The Cockatoo. — River Tjlwith, — Pont-y-Mynach, iz£ 
 
 2 CHAP, 
 
CONTENTS. XXV 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Rafod-Arms Inn. — Falls of the Rbyddol and the Mynach. — 
 Sublime Scenery., — Reflections. Page 141 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Plinlimmon. — Gradual A/cent. — Turf Cottages, — - Miferable 
 Life of the Shepherds. — Pent-y- Plinlimmon. — Ejfecls of War. 
 
 H7 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Road from Pont-y -Mynach to Aberyflwith. — Aberyflwith Caf- 
 tle.—Tbe Rhyddol. — Sun Jetting. — Aberarth. — French In- 
 vajion. 160 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Aberayron. — Llangronog New Inn. — Caflell yn Dolig. — Car- 
 digan. — The Bridge. — The Cajile. — and the Market. 1 70 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Road to Newcaflle. — River Teivy. — Ancient Cajile. — Approach 
 to Carmarthen. 177 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Carmarthen. — Bridge. — Cajile. — Reflexions.— The Church. — 
 Merlin. 183 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Abergnuilly. — Coracles. — Line of Beauty.— Dinevaivr Cajile. 
 — And Park. — Its ancient and prefent Jiate. — Improvements 
 Juggefled. — Remarks. 188 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Llandilo-vavsr.— Tbe Church.— Monumental Infcriptions. — 
 Llandovery. 200 
 
 CHAP. 
 
XXVI • CONTENTS. 
 
 chap. xxir. 
 
 Road from Llandovery to Trecaflle. — River*— The Inn. — » 
 Llannfpddyd.~-The VJk* Page 207 
 
 CHAP. XXIIL 
 
 Brecon. — The Abbey and Cajlle.— River Wye. —-Hay. -—Clifford 
 Caftle.— -'Journey to Kington^ in the Courfe of which we 
 were lojl all Night on the Mountains* 2 1 5 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Return to Prefleign* — Road to Mortimer's Cro/s. — Richard's 
 Cajlle. — Orkton* —Ludlow. — Hofpitah— Church. — C Jlk* 
 — Lords Pre/idents of the Marches of Wales. — Hforical 
 Anecdotes.— Remarks on certain Corporations* 230 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Stoke Cajlle. — Downton. — Return to Ludlow. 264 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Road from Ludlow to Bridgenorth*—with feme Account of the 
 latter. 274 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 Termination of the Ride to Dudley. — Himley* — Dudley Cajlle*— 
 Reflexions* 2?>0 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 Birmingham* 29 X 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 Excurjion to ShenJlone 3 s Leaf owes. 299 
 
 < CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Road from Birmingham to Warwick. — Solihull. — Knowle. — 
 Wroxall* 3" 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. XXVU 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 Warwick .—-Buildings, public and private. — Monuments. — Cul- 
 tivation of the Vim. — Warwick Cajlle. — Paintings, — Ar- 
 mour. — P 'ark and Pleafure Grounds.— Antiquities. — Superb 
 Va/e. P a g e 316 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 Charlecott. — Compton Verney. — Kineton.—Edge Hill. — Ban. 
 bury. — Road to Buckingham, 350 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 An Excurfion to the Villages of Clay don, Hillefden, and Gren- 
 don Underwood, with a particular Account of their Parijh 
 Churches. 358 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 Dodder/hall. — £>uainton. — The Church. — Monuments. 3 7 4 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Wotton Underwood. —Dor ton Houfe.— Chilton.— The Church. 
 
 401 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 Long Crendon. — Nutleigh Abbey, — Eythorp* — Aylefbury. 421 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 Ajlon Clinton. — Enter Hertford/hire. — Tring. — Peter the Wild 
 Boy. — North Church.- Berzhamffiead. —The Cajlle. 434 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 Two Waters. — King's Langiey. — Cajhioberry.Stanmore.— 
 Watford.— Road to London, 442 
 
Publications by the fame Author, 
 
 I. In 8vo, Price zr. 6d.— An ESSAY on PUTRID 
 
 MALIGNANT FEVER, bV. &*<r.— Riving- 
 ton, St, Paul's Church-Yard, and Stockdale, 
 Piccadilly, London, 
 
 II. In 8vo, Price 5/ — A JOURNEY into CORN- 
 
 WALL, through the Counties of Southampton, 
 Wilts, Dorfet, Devon, and Somerfet. — Riving- 
 ton, St. Paul's Church- yard. 
 
 HI. In 8vo, Price 3/.— OBSERVATIONS on the 
 HISTORY and CAUSE of ASTHMA, fcrV, 
 &fr» — Johnfon, St. Paul's Church-yard. 
 
 And fpeedily will be fublijhed, 
 (Dedicated, by Permiffion, to the Duke of Devonfhire), 
 
 A DESCRIPTION of MATLOCK BATH and the 
 
 adjacent Country, including an Attempt to explain 
 the Caufes of Heat, and of the Petrifying Quality 
 of thofe celebrated Springs. 
 
 A JOUR- 
 
A JOURNEY 
 
 INTO 
 
 SOUTH WALES. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 On the Efecls of the different Difpoftions of Travellers.— On Wit 
 end Learning mifapplied. — On Ill-Humour. — On Criiiafm 9 
 with a Word to the Reviewers. 
 
 The peculiar difpofition with which a travel- 
 ler fets out, is fure to have a confiderable in- 
 fluence over the train of thinking produced 
 during the whole of his journey. It becomes, 
 therefore, a matter of great confequence, that he 
 fhould avoid that faftidioufnefs which is apt to 
 jaundice every object prefented to the fight, and 
 which renders the mod beautiful and interefting 
 fcenery tirefome and difgufting. 
 
 A calm ferenity of mind, which can alone pre- 
 pare it for the reception of pleafing ideas, and 
 give it that high polifh which makes it capable 
 of refitting the touch of thofe afperities to which it 
 is every day expofed, feems more particularly re* 
 quiilte, when we enter on a wide field of contem- 
 plation, which abounds with a greater variety of 
 B characters- 
 
2 A JOURNEY 
 
 characters, and a greater proportion of acci* 
 dents than ufual. 
 
 It is the want of this calmnefs which frequently 
 occasions the moft pleafant excurfions to termi- 
 nate in difappointment: for we are too apt to buoy 
 up the mind with falfe hopes, and fanguine ex- 
 pectations of pleafure, that incapacitate us for 
 making a proper ufe of thofe reflections which 
 the fair face of nature plentifully fupplies. 
 
 We mud not, therefore, allow the anticipation 
 of what we are to meet with on a journey to 
 elevate the imagination beyond its proper bounds* 
 The dimes which nature provides for us are al- 
 ways fimple, though elegant and gratifying: but 
 the entertainment cooked by Fancy is graced 
 and garniihed with artificial ornaments, and ar- 
 ranged in the moft attractive manner. If we 
 indulge in thefe ideal banquets, they are liable 
 to pall the moft healthy appetite, and to vitiate 
 the moft refined tafte :— we turn from the plain 
 cookery of nature with apathy, or even difguft j 
 and, to drop all metaphor, our defcriptions be- 
 come warped by prejudice, and our arguments 
 tinged with ill humour : the works of Nature 
 appear diftorted, and the labours of Art only 
 raife their front to be the fport of wanton criti* 
 cifm, or the theme of fatirical abufe. 
 
 12 Topo* 
 
INTO 'SOUTH WALES. J 
 
 Topographical hiftory, when fairly and libe- 
 rally written, is fraught with innumerable ad- 
 vantages. 
 
 The ftores of natural hiftory open to us fpon- 
 taneoufly, and bring into a general review all the 
 abfu»dities, as well as ingenuities, of the different 
 fyftematic arrangements which have been made 
 in that important fcience. 
 
 The moralift, the philofopher, the merchant, 
 every rank and defcription of men, becomes, in 
 turn, the theme of narrative. The mafs of in- 
 ftruction is general, and the pathway is flrewed 
 with flowers, fo that the heart is improved, the 
 judgment corrected, and the imagination de- 
 lighted at once. 
 
 The fuperiority of acquirement which we ob- 
 ferve in others, teaches us to correct our own 
 errors, and ftimulates us to a virtuous emulation. 
 The contemplation of greater perfection and 
 higher cultivation in other countries, prompts us 
 to improve our native foil : and a fuperior degree 
 of rudenefs and flerility among them, makes us 
 grateful to the beneficent hand of Providence, for 
 its more liberal diftribution of good to ourfelves j 
 and teaches us contentment and thankfulnefs. 
 
 With regard to the effects produced in de- 
 
 fcriptive writing, from the pofTeflion of fuperior 
 
 B 2 learning 
 
4 A JOURNEY 
 
 learning and wit, I think it may be faid, that 
 the proper application of wit can alone afford 
 entertainment; —the rational difplay of learning 
 can alone effect improvement ; for authors, who 
 have enjoyed all the advantages of profound 
 learning, fuperadded to the brilliancy of the moft 
 poignant wit, have, not unfrequently, bordered 
 on pertnefs, and fometimes foar into the gloomy 
 regions of fcholaftic dulnefs. 
 
 Wit changed into fatire, or twifted into pert- 
 nefs, becomes defpicable. Learning, applied to 
 childifh fubje&s, or diftributed at random, finks 
 into contempt. They are then the fair game of 
 criticifm, and deferve to be expofed to ever- 
 lafting ridicule. 
 
 Among numerous inftances of this manifefl 
 abufe of parts, evidently beftowed for far better 
 purpofes than thofe to which they have been ap- 
 plied, Peter Pindar may be cited as a ftriking 
 example. 
 
 His wit appears in a malevolent fportivenefo., 
 and his tafle difplays itfelf in a dirty appetite for 
 every fpecies of fcandalous abufe, and farcaftic 
 refle&ion. He grovelled in the filth of human 
 frailty, for every particle of error which had 
 been dropped by weaknefs, thoughtleflhefs, or 
 folly: and, not fatisfied with expofing its real 
 
 fhape 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. $ 
 
 ftape to public notice, he furnifhed magnifying 
 gfaffes, through which its deformity might be 
 more diftin&ly viewed. 
 
 Regardlefs of the feelings of the inoffenfive or 
 the virtuous, and puffed up with the applaufe of 
 a few giddy and malevolent fpirits, he was not 
 contented in the enjoyment of a victorious tri- 
 umph, without dragging at his chariot wheels, 
 in the true ftyle of Scythian barbarity, the charac- 
 ters which he had fo grofsly derided, and fo in- 
 duftrioufly fubje£ted to contempt. 
 
 No man of fenfe and feeling could enjoy a re- 
 paft, provided by fuch unclean fingers, and ca- 
 tered fo difgracefully \ for however the viands 
 might be difguifed by the artifices of thofe who 
 difhed them up, the mind naturally turned to 
 the mode by which they had been originally col- 
 lected, and recognized the hands that drefled 
 them. 
 
 Wit, then, to be agreeable, and to afford en- 
 tertainment, mould be directed by good humour : 
 and learning, to be ufeful and inftru&ive, mufl 
 ferve the caufe of truth, and promote the prac- 
 tice of virtue. Wit muft be devoid of keen 
 feverity ; and learning, of oflentatious pedantry. 
 The peculiar temper and habit of a traveller, 
 $nd the nature of his accuftomed ftudies, will 
 B 3 necef* 
 
6 A JOURNEY 
 
 necefiarily appear in all his obfervations. The 
 hidorian, the antiquary, the philofopher, the po- 
 litician, will be mamfeft to an attentive reader, 
 in fpite of himfelf : but every author has it in his 
 power to diveft himfelf of thofe prejudices which 
 difgrace tbe hiftorian ; thofe foibles which ex- 
 pofe the antiquary to ridicule j thofe levities which 
 degrade the philofopher ; and that fiery fpirit 
 of party rage which difgufts in the politician. 
 
 It has been, of late, by much too faflnonable 
 for writers on almoft every fubjecl to treat religion 
 with lefs decorum than is due to, the confidera- 
 tion of a topic fo' intimately connected with the 
 happinefs of fociety. 
 
 Mifchievous tenets have been propagated, and 
 unworthy e^preffions introduced to the world, 
 in books of hiftory, voyages, travels, and even 
 novels and romances. Every fpecies of literary 
 compofition has been converted into the means 
 of poifoning the public mind with opinions de- 
 flru&ive of all focial happinefs \ and with prin- 
 ciples which directly tend to the fubverfion of all 
 morality and religion : and, under the modeft 
 title of the new philofophy, -treafon and atheifm 
 have been fecretly inculcated, the fences of dif- 
 tincuon between different ranks and degrees in 
 fociety have been boldly broken down, and thofe 
 
 eftublift- 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. J 1 
 
 eftablifliments, whofe worth has rendered them 
 venerable and facred from the remotefl periods 
 of antiquity., openly abjured and impudently tra- 
 duced. 
 
 The man, however, be his ftation or character 
 
 as a writer, whatever it may, who thus converts 
 the glorious liberty of the prefs into a vile and un- 
 bridled licentioufnefs;; who endeavours to excite 
 a contempt for religious inflitutions, or to ridicule 
 thofe facred duties which are the great bonds of 
 moral happinefs, I hefitate not to pronounce an 
 enemy and a traitor to his country. 
 
 It is not always neceffary that good health or 
 a ftrong conftitution mould be porTeifed by a tra- 
 veller, becaufe thefe advantages may be fometimes 
 compenfated for by cheerfulnefs arid vivacity 5 but 
 it frequently happens that the mind becomes 
 enervated by the difeafes of the body, and a cap- 
 tious inquietude is produced, which puts a man 
 out of humour with himfelf and every thing ' 
 about him. 
 
 Innumerable obflacles, then, arife ,at every 
 ftep, and perpetual interruptions four his temper, 
 and render it unfit to convey juft or impartial 
 ideas of thofe objects and occurrences which ap- 
 pear to him ihrouded in the veil of morofenefs 
 B 4 But 
 
S A JOURNEY 
 
 But I confefs that I would rather fubmit to a little 
 fplenetic animadverfion from the Tick and difeafed, 
 who have at leafl fo me kind of excufe for tri- 
 vial deviations from good humour, than to the 
 naufeating effufions of vexation and difappoint- 
 ment which fafhionable travellers, and genteel epi- 
 cures, are continually obtruding on the public. 
 
 He who drives from Dover to the Land's End 
 in fearch of the bed fifh, mould not dare to call 
 this travelling ;- — and yet how often do we di'f- 
 cover, that the only tafle which is difplayed in 
 two or three hundred pages, is that bf port wine, 
 and the only addition made to the general flock 
 of knowledge, is a catalogue of fign pofts, and 
 the detail of a bill of fare. 
 
 It is of very little confequence whether the 
 Black Bull or the Marquis of Granbfs Head 
 afforded the choiced dinner, or whether my Lord 
 this, or Sir John t'other flept more foundly at 
 the Bugle Horn, or the Star and Garter: whether 
 the mutton was better roafted at the Blue Boar 
 or the Golden Lion ; or the eels better fried at 
 the Dog and Pincujhion, or the Pig and Carrot. 
 A man mull be ill employed to travel only to eat, 
 becaufe, in general, this may be done more con- 
 veniently at home \ but his time is thrown away 
 
 CQ 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 9 
 
 to a ftill worfe purpofe if he plagues the world with 
 a publication of his gormandizing adventures. 
 
 While I am making thefe remarks on the qua-* 
 lifications of topographical hiftorians, and the 
 tendency of their works, I may, however, have 
 awakened criticifm to my own defects ; and as 
 I have little to hope from the candour of re- 
 viewers, I fhall take leave to add a few obferva- 
 tions on thefe directors of the public tafte before 
 the conclufion of this fection. 
 
 Integrity and unbiafled attachment to the truth 
 of delineation, are to the hiftorian, what impar- 
 tial juflice and found judgment are, to the critic. 
 
 May I afk whether the papers which are em- 
 ployed to difcipline and correct the literature of 
 this country, are conducted on the liberal princi- 
 ples of candid criticifm ? or if they are not fome- 
 times made the vehicles for conveying dogmatical 
 cenfures againft humble merit? cenfures which are 
 the offspring of malevolence and jealoufly. May 
 I afk, are not the reviews, which ought to be the 
 faithful intelligencers of the public, and free from 
 all duplicity, neither fwayed by partiality nor warp* 
 ed by prejudice; formed to difcriminate juflly, not 
 wantonly to condemn ; — are they not, I fay, be- 
 come the inftruments of fcandalous abufe, the 
 
 victims 
 
iO A JOURNEY 
 
 victims of the groneft prejudice, and of the mofi: 
 glaring partiality ? are they not become fo par* 
 tial, that writings, which for their elegance of 
 ccmpofition, or precifion of argument, deferve 
 to be generally read, may remain for ever un- 
 obferved, if their author's political opinions are 
 not fufikiently avowed, to excite the attention of 
 one party, or not fufficiently violent to engage 
 the notice of the other ? 
 
 This warfare between the critics, however it 
 may have been provoked by the freedom with 
 which every book that had a tendency to call 
 forth the difcuflion of political queftions was a 
 few years fince reviewed, will, in the end, greatly 
 injure the literature as well as the repofe of the 
 country. 
 
 The unafTuming author, who in a fair race for 
 public favour, had at lead fome chance of fuccefs, 
 is now driven out of the lifts by the authoritative 
 feverity, and the pointed malevolence of thofe, 
 whofe bufmefs it ufed to be to clear the courfe, 
 and remove every obftacle which might interrupt 
 the competitors for fame, in arriving at the goal. 
 
 Works fo conducted, and fraught with prin- 
 ciples fo illiberal, can not long maintain a refpecl- 
 
 able place in the republic of letters ; even now 
 
 the 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. %X 
 
 the general opinion of the world has begun tq> 
 (hake off the fetters of conftraint which thefe 
 writings had been accuftomed to impofe: and 
 that reverential obedience, with which they ufed 
 formerly to contemplate thefe rulers of the prefs, 
 and dictators of public fentiment is every day 
 rapidly declining. 
 
 The reviewers, enthroned on the fummit of 
 literature, and awarding the fentence of appro- 
 bation or difcountenance, on which the fame, 
 the character, and perhaps the fubfiftence of an 
 author depend, have deferted their high flation of 
 public cenfors, and funk into the meannefs of 
 political fqabblers and partizans ; — have bartered 
 their independence and impartiality, for the des- 
 picable gratification of flinging thofe writers 
 whofe principles and opinions differ in any refpect 
 from their own : and, as an elegant writer ob- 
 ferves ? we have lived to fee l€ the Britlfh prefs, 
 * c the grand palladium of Britifli liberty, devoted 
 " to the caufe of Gallic licentioufnefs, that mor- 
 " tal enemy of all freedom ; and even the pure 
 " flream of Britifh crkicifm diverted from its 
 " natural courfe, and polluted by the peftilential 
 il vapours of Gallic republicanifm." 
 
 Publica. 
 
\% A JOURNEY 
 
 Publications diftinguifhed by the moft mif- 
 chievous tenets have met with the higheft com- 
 mendation and encouragement \ while thofe whofe 
 aim was peace, and whofe doctrines morality, 
 have either been negligently overlooked, or blaft- 
 ed by the frown of difapprobation and contu* 
 mely. 
 
 Hackneyed fcribblers, engendered in the cor- 
 ruption of political mifconducl:, or hatched by 
 the glow of ambitious expectation, have never 
 had pccafion to complain of the feverity of criti- 
 cifm , but have bafked in the funfhine of the re* 
 viewers' favour* 
 
 The like partiality has been openly fliewn for 
 the numerous exertions of 
 
 'If Polemic frenzy, and irreverent rage,'* 
 
 which have fanned the latent fparks of private, 
 and almoft extinguifhed, animofities, into a 
 flame: — for thofe tenets whofe hideous immo- 
 rality ought to have configned them to eternal 
 oblivion ; — and for every daring and attrocious 
 effort which has been made to difturb the peace 
 of fociety, or make the credit of religion. 
 
 Calm, fair, difpafiionate argument has been 
 difcountenanced, while vehement abufe, and en- 
 
 thufiaftie 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES* t'j 
 
 thufiaftic ravings have not only fecured the atten- 
 tion, but the favour of the critics. Thefe qua- 
 lifications only could introduce an author to the 
 temple of literary Fame ; and the facrifices which 
 her priefts required, have been no lefs than the 
 candour, morality, and honour of her votaries. 
 With fuch fentiments in my mind, k may be 
 afked how I can look forward to the day when 
 thefe remarks fhall become the fubjecl: of criti- 
 cifm, and the food of thofe very animals, whofe 
 indifcriminate voracity, or epicurean antipathies> 
 have been treated with fome degree of freedom 
 and feverity ? But however gratifying praife 
 may be to human nature, fo much fo that " we 
 " fwallow it with avidity, if it be offered even by 
 " a madman :" I would have my book read by a 
 few fenfible friends, and commented on with 
 undifguifed fmcerity, though it might thus be 
 espofed to the fevered cenfure, rather than I 
 would receive, at the hands of the reviewers, a 
 large portion of applaufe, or the mod gracious 
 beheft of their fovereign dictation. 
 
 I am not, indeed, very likely to attract their 
 notice, having no high-flaming political topics to 
 difcufs, — no inclination to inveftigate the different 
 modifications of civil government, — nor com- 
 plaints to make againft any form of religious woi> 
 
 fliip 
 
14 A ")otj».NE , fc 
 
 fiiip which teaches men to be good. I (hall not 
 debate on " the divine right of kings," nor 
 " the majefty of the people 5" but leave thefe 
 things to heads wifer or worfe than my own } 
 —to thofe who think they can infure public 
 favour by their authority, or will meanly crave 
 it through the medium of the reviewers, — to 
 thofe who may pofiibly fometimes recommend 
 themfelves to the powerful by obfequioufnefs and 
 duplicity, or who will court the approbation of 
 , the critics, by loofenefs of expreflion, bordering 
 on profanenefs, and freedom of fentiment, tan* 
 tamount to fedition. 
 
 The fcenes which I am about to prefent, will 
 be faithful, though perhaps rough Iketches of 
 nature. The truth, and not the delicacy of co- 
 louring 5 the clofe refemblance, and not the ele* 
 gance of nnifh, mud be the criterion of their 
 merit. 
 
 Obfervations on men and manners muft be al- 
 ways, in fome degree, capricious ; mine will not, 
 I hope, be found either unfair or illiberal ; and 
 if I am bold in the caufe of virtue and of diftrefs, 
 I truft I fhall not be accufed of malignity, or 
 want of candour, when the follies, and not the 
 vices, the foibles, and not the wickednefs of the 
 l^orld, are the fubje&s under confederation. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1$ 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 journey from London to Uxbridge in a Stage-Coach, — Wycombe, 
 Oxford. — Walk to Woodjloch. — Blenheim, — A Funeral,— 
 Reading a neceffary Qualification in a Clergyman. — Death. 
 
 Having engaged a place m one of the ftage 
 coaches which pafTes through Oxford, I took 
 leave of the gay crowd in which I had been 
 fpending my time in the great metropolis, and 
 foon exchanged the noife and turbulence of that 
 bufy fcene, for the calmer enjoyments of fruitful 
 fields, and the more noble and fplendid fcenery 
 of the rocks and the forefts. 
 
 One cannot make a fudden tranfition from the 
 tinfel glitter of fplendour and oftentation, to thofe 
 brighter, and more interefting charms, with which 
 the luxury of Nature has adorned her works, 
 without experiencing a fenfation of pleafure and 
 delight, which produces a certain degree of vi. 
 vacity and cheerfulnefs. 
 
 The journey which I propofed to myfelf was 
 into South Wales, a country highly interefting, 
 
 and 
 
1 6 A JOURNEV 
 
 and recommended, in a particular manner, bf 
 the lively and picturefque defcriptions of it, which 
 have been lately publifhed. 
 
 My rout, however, being confiderably different 
 from that of many other travellers, and the flat- 
 tering reception with which my former publica- 
 tions have been honoured, affording me a pleafing 
 hope of the continuance of that indulgence and 
 patronage, which were fo liberally bellowed on 
 the literary efforts of my earlieft years, I was in- 
 duced to commit to paper a journal of the remarks 
 which occurred to me during my tour ; and, 
 with few alterations, they now make their ap- 
 pearance in print. 
 
 I had fcarcely taken my feat in the vehicle be- 
 fore mentioned, when the coachman difcovered 
 that the place which had been allotted me, was 
 the property of a lady who had previoufly en- 
 gaged it, and who was to meet the ftage coach at 
 the Old Hats, a well-known public houfe on the 
 Uxbridge road. The three other paffengers, how- 
 ever, uniting their perfuafions, the fovereign of 
 the whip was foon pacified ; and the lady oblig- 
 ingly condefcended to allow me a fifth place ill 
 this quadruple conveyance. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. if 
 
 The drearinefs of the road to Oxford has been 
 celebrated by innumerable travellers, but we were 
 fo clofely (hut up, that we had no opportunity of 
 adding to their remarks, whatever might have 
 been our inclination. Dirty roads, it is true, 
 and frequent (howers, were loudly complained 
 of; though, like complainers in general, we had 
 very little reafon to concern ourfelves about the 
 one or the other, as we were not expofed to the 
 inconveniences of either. 
 
 It was in the afternoon when we fet out, and 
 night approached jufl as we arrived at the firfl 
 diftincl: appearance of verdure in the fields, and 
 rural neatnefs in the cottages. 
 
 All the habitations which we had before paffed, 
 were either the fplendid abodes of the great, the 
 whimfical conceits of the rich, or thofe miferable 
 (habby-genteel famed huts, which feem to par- 
 take both of town and country, but belong to 
 neither. 
 
 It was dark when we reached Uxbridge, a towri 
 of which every traveller is tired with faying, he has 
 nothing to remark ; but that it has a good mar- 
 ket houfc ;— which, in fact, is neither very elegant 
 nor ftriking, its fize being vaftly difproportionate 
 to the height of the wooden pillars which fup* 
 port it. 
 
 C Part 
 
1-8 A JOURNEY 
 
 Part of the building (till remains, in which the 
 Commiffioners met in 1 645, for adjufting the un- 
 happy differences between King Charles the firft, 
 and his Parliament : and the light of a folitary ta- 
 per, beaming through the narrow quarries, ena- 
 bled us to difcern the apartment in which the fate 
 of a great monarch, and a mighty nation, was 
 once decided. 
 
 In this neighbourhood too, lived the patriotic 
 and undaunted Hampden, who^ firmly uncorrupt 
 amidft the greateft dangers and temptations, 
 braved even death itfelf, in defence of principles, 
 which were then called obftinate, but havejince 
 been honoured with the epithet of glorious. 
 
 4( At length comes Time with Truth's pervading ray; 
 
 (e To feparate the living from the dead; 
 <l Clears the dark clouds of. prejudice away, 
 
 " And roafis the varnifh off, by Flatt'ry fpread." 
 
 A difpute about the penal laws, between a 
 merchant and a farmer, two of my fellow tra- 
 vellers, being carried on with great vehemence 
 and gefliculation, very much difconcerted aWelch 
 man, who fate in the oppofite corner of the 
 coach, and feemed defiroixs to have ilumbered 
 away the evening 5 fo that I was glad when we 
 
 arrived 
 
IttTO SOUTH WALES. 19 
 
 arrived at Wycombe, where a good fupper very 
 agreeably refrefhed all of us, and reconciled the 
 contending parties. 
 
 The late Lord Le Defpenfer had a magnificent 
 feat at Weji Wycombe, adorned with fine gardens, 
 laid out in the formal ftyle, with avenues, and ca- 
 nals, and fountains. The houfe, now the pro-* 
 perty of Sir JoJm Dajhwood King, Bart, retains 
 but little of its ancient fplendor, and that little 
 it was too dark for us to notice. 
 
 The moon fhone, however, on the oppofite 
 hill, where an elegant chapel has been erecled, 
 with a maufoieum at the eaft end, in which, 
 among other remains of departed worth, is placed 
 the heart of Paul Whitehead. 
 
 Having changed horfes at Tetfworth, we foon 
 reached Oxford ; and, like poor Moritz (the 
 Pruffian divine, who made a pedeftrian excurfion 
 fromLondon into Derby/hire) flopped at the Mitre, 
 but did not find the " prince-like attendance 
 <c there," which that gentleman was fo fortunate 
 as to meet with. 
 
 The indifpofition of one of the pafTengers, ad- 
 ded to the inconvenience occafioned by the clofe- 
 nefs of our flowage, induced me to quit the flage 
 at this place ; and it being now about three 
 C 2 o'clock 
 
CO A JOURNEY 
 
 o'clock in the morning, there was fome difficulty 
 in procuring a bed, particularly as the inn feemed 
 to be left to the entire management of the waiters 
 and coachmen* 
 
 Difgufted by their incivility, and perhaps a lit- 
 tle nettled by the preference which was given to 
 a young gentleman, who alighted from the roof 
 of the coach, and whom, from his carelefs air, 
 and the manner in which he fwore, I prefumed to 
 be a collegian, I determined to feek lodgings at 
 another inn \ whither I caufed my portman- 
 teau to be conveyed immediately, and where I 
 was lucky enough to find a comfortable apart- 
 ment. 
 
 After a fhort repofe, I prepared to take a walk 
 round this venerable city ; whofe beauties are fo 
 numerous and attractive, that every traveller is 
 prompted to attempt their defcription, although 
 the talk requires a matter's hand. 
 
 It was vacation time, and a kind of void feems 
 to flrike one with penfive mufmg. An air of 
 calm tranquillity is given to the buildings, the 
 walks* and even the inhabitants. I enter Chrifi 
 Church i where the ear fo often liftens with de* 
 light and admiration, to the full-flowing periods, 
 and the refined learning of men* juftly famed 
 
 for 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES* 1 1 
 
 for literary acquirements-; and where frienddiip 
 is crowned with the joyous feftivity of a convi- 
 vial board. 
 
 All is now ferene compofure, and melancholy 
 fiillnefs creeps along the walls. The mirth-re- 
 founding cloifter is now forfaken ; and even the 
 fountain in the quadrangle has ceafed to play. 
 
 I droll through the venerable grove, and along 
 the high o'er-arching vifta : I court the gentle 
 ilream of Ifis, and wind my folitary way along 
 the margin of her devious courfe. 
 
 Thus wandering through the glade, the dear 
 images of long loft friends arife before me ; and 
 as the fleeting vifions pafs, " the grateful memory 
 '* of the good" awakens the mind to thofe glori- 
 ous paterns of departed excellence, which have 
 been afforded us in their example. Let us re- 
 member, however, that 
 
 '* A friend when dead is but rernov'd from fight, 
 " Hid in the luftre of eternal light : 
 " Oft with the mind he wonted converfe keeps 
 ■' In the lone walk, or when the body fleeps ; 
 et Lets in the wand'ring ray, and all elate, 
 cl "Wings and attracts her to another flate ; 
 " And, when the parting ftorms of life are o'er, 
 " May yet rejoin him on a happier more." 
 
 Ci The 
 
%2 A JOURNEY 
 
 The afternoon being remarkably fine and 
 calm, I walked to Wood/lock, and there awaited 
 the arrival of the vehicle which was to convey me 
 to Stratford on Avon, the next day. 
 
 Eight miles of flat road, with few, or fcarcely 
 any objects of attraction near it, would have been 
 a dull and tirefome walk ; but I deviated from 
 the turnpike, and followed the windings of a ca- 
 nal which has been made from Oxford to Bir- 
 mingham. 
 
 A fmall bridge crofTes this cut, about four 
 miles from the former, at a point where an open- 
 ing prefents itfelf on the left, into a well-culti* 
 vated, but level country. 
 
 At length the plantations at Blenheim catch 
 the eye ; and at the end of Woodjlock we'paffed 
 a formal avenue, which leads to the houfe. 
 
 The Duchefs of Marlborough has erected and 
 endowed a neat alms-houfe, for ten poor widows, 
 at the verge of the park, and clofe to the town 
 of Woodjlock : this is the firft object which claims 
 attention. 
 
 Confidering myfelf in the light of a foot-pak 
 
 fenger, and remarking the negligence, and even 
 
 contempt to which fuch travellers are every 
 
 where expofed, I paifed the fpacious hotel, at 
 
 jo , which 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2J 
 
 which they who travel with carriages, and horfes, 
 and fervants, ufually flop, and trudged on to a 
 comfortable little inn, near the church ; where, 
 feeing the inviting fign of the Angel, and the dill 
 more inviting appearance of infinite neatnefs 
 about the premifes, I entered the houfe, and was 
 received with as much civility, and treated with 
 as much refpecl, as if I had been clothed in em- 
 broidery, or had travelled in a coach and fix. 
 
 Having refted myfelf a little while, I ftrayed 
 out into the town, which I can not think either 
 pleafantly fituated, or by any means deferving 
 the encomia beftowed on it by fome who have 
 travelled this road. 
 
 Its manufactory of gloves and fleel trinkets is 
 defervedly celebrated; but employs few hands \ 
 and, like other branches of trade, has confider- 
 ably declined during the war. 
 
 Wood/lock confers the title of vifcount on the 
 Duke of Portland^ by letters patent in 1689, the 
 fame year in which the head of that family was 
 created Earl of Portland. 
 
 The beauties of Blenheim^ and the flnenefs of 
 the weather, naturally drew me towards the park, 
 which is open to ftrangers at all times : they are, 
 however, only admitted into the houfe for a cer- 
 tain number of hours every day. 
 
 C 4 Blenheim 
 
&4 A JOURNEY 
 
 Blenheim and its accompaniments have beer! 
 very well defcribed, and full juftice (if not more 
 than juftice) has been done to the fubject in va- 
 rious publications ; but particularly in the Local 
 Guide. 
 
 I perfectly agree with Doctor Mavor, the re- 
 fpectable mailer of a fchool here, and the author 
 of that Guide, cc that the impreffion vifitors re- 
 46 ceive from the view of a place is as frequently 
 4C conveyed |by the mode in which it is fhewn, 
 " as by its native beauties or defects." Blen- 
 heim mud, indeed, always appear beautiful ; its 
 ornaments are appropriate, its fituation delight- 
 ful, its decorations neither too fparing, nor too 
 numerous : the heavy ftyle of Vanburgh's archi- 
 tecture is here even confiftent (which is more 
 than can generally be faid for it), and in fhorr, 
 the changes of the feafons, and the varieties of 
 the weather, can fcarcely prevent us from be- 
 holding this place with great fatisfaction ; and 
 yet there is fomething fo extremely difgufting in 
 the furly pride, and affected importance of the 
 menials of his Grace of Marlborough* that a tra- 
 veller is apt to lofe more than half of s his plea,- 
 fure before he leaves the fpot : he is apt to lofe 
 the complacency with which he entered the houfe, 
 and, fometimes to retort unjuftly on the building;, 
 
 or 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 25 
 
 or the proprietor, for the conduct of his do- 
 meflics. 
 
 The fpot on which Chaucer refided, is unquef- 
 tionably now the fcite of Mr. Prior's houfe, near 
 the entrance of the park ; and many of the rural 
 and fylvan fcenes which the old bard has painted 
 fo imprefiively, were taken from thefe grounds. 
 
 Lord Lanfdozvn, in his dramatic poem called 
 " The Britifh Enchanters" has put a very neat 
 and elegant compliment in the mouth of TJrgan- 
 da, the enchantrefs, which deferves to be remem- 
 bered. Speaking of her bower, fhe fays 
 
 <f Here faithful lovers to fafe joys remove, 
 *'• The foft retreat of Glory and of Love ; 
 *' By Fate prepar'd to crown the happy hours 
 " Of mighty kings, and famous conquerors : 
 *' The Bower of Blifs 'tis called, and is the fame, 
 <l Which mortals fhall hereafter Blenheim name." 
 
 Returning from my walk, a funeral procef- 
 fion caught my eye. I mingled with the crowd, 
 and entered the church, which is a neat well- 
 finiihed edifice, externally ; but contains nothing 
 remarkable. 
 
 Between the church and chancel there is a 
 gallery enriched with carving; and fome elevated 
 
 feats 
 
26 A JOURNEY 
 
 feats for the Corporation of the Borough of New 
 Wood/lock. 
 
 A middle aged clergyman trotted through the 
 fervice in a manner the mod fhamefully negli- 
 gent, and with a tone and cadence the mod dif- 
 fonantly difagreeable. 
 
 No man can read well, who does not poiTefs 
 fome degree of judgment ; who has not fome lit- 
 tle underdanding of the fubjecl and the lan- 
 guage | but I am fometimes at a lofs to know 
 how it can happen for a perfon ever to read at 
 all, without obtaining at leaft fufficient know- 
 ledge of the fubject, and fufficient acquaintance 
 with the language to make him read much bet- 
 ter than even clergymen often do. 
 
 If their lordJhips, the bifhops, would bepleafed 
 to pay fome attention to this very neceflary and 
 commendable qualification, as well as to the ac- 
 quirement of Greek and Hebrew learning, I can 
 not help thinking that they would do more to 
 prevent feceflions from the edablifhed church, 
 than will ever be effected by the mod florid ha- 
 rangues, or the mod logical arguments againd 
 " herefy and fchifm." 
 
 The fined language, the mod exalted fenti- 
 
 ments, and even the founded piety itfelf, un- 
 
 , aided 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1J 
 
 aided by propriety of elocution, will produce but 
 little efFecl on the minds of a mixed congregation : 
 while the fublime truths of the Holy Scriptures, 
 and the excellent Liturgy of the Church of Eng- 
 land, when delivered with that ferious energy by 
 which they ought to be enforced, can fcarcely 
 fail of making a due and lading imprefiion. 
 
 Far be it from me to depreciate the necef- 
 fity and the advantages of the learned languages ; 
 but I hope I fhall be pardoned by the reverend 
 bench in fuggeding, that the prevalence of- a 
 carelefs and inattentive habit of reading the fer- 
 vice of the church, is really one great caufe 
 of the number of dhTenters, or rather feceders 
 from the church. All men can not judge of 
 the learning of the clergy, but there are few 
 fo ignorant or unfeeling as not to didinguifh be- 
 tween a good reader and a bad one. 
 
 The corpfe which I had attended to the grave, 
 was now depofited among its kindred dud. It 
 was the remains of a maiden lady, who had at- 
 tained a very great age ; and having furvived all 
 her relations and acquaintances, left behind her 
 few, if any, real mourners. The riling figh, 
 and darting tear, however, from the more feri- 
 ous and companionate of thofe who attended, 
 
 were 
 
28 A JOURNEY 
 
 were indications of a grateful fenfibility in the 
 living, and a filent commendation of the de- 
 ceafed. 
 
 Death, in its mod frequent fhape, is an awful 
 intruder, and his imperious dominion is always 
 reluctantly fubmitted to ; though his fiat is irrfc- 
 fiftible, and his arrival certain. 
 
 Thofe beauteous eyes, which once fhot capti- 
 avtion at every glance, which beamed in loveli- 
 nefs incomparable, are clofed u in putrid night." 
 Thofe heavenly fmiles, which raifed into raptu- 
 rous delight the admiration of a thoufand lovers, 
 are changed into the ghaftlinefs of horror, and 
 contracted with the pale rigidity of death ! The 
 finews of ftrength are here relaxed, and the 
 graceful form now moulders into dull. 
 
 Hufhed are all the paffions of the mind ! Am- 
 bition, which prompted to high afpirement — Re- 
 venge, which lurked in fecret hiding places, 
 deeply intent on mifchievous purpofes — Envy, 
 whofe rancorous fangs marked her own bofom 
 with perpetual fears, has yielded to the grim ty- 
 rant's power i The gay expectancy, the ardour 
 of defire, the accumulation of wealth, the juve- 
 nile profpedts, the mature fchemes, the ancient 
 prejuiices, are fruftrated and deftroyed ! The 
 
 fanguine 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 29 
 
 fanguine hopes of the hero are perifhed, and the 
 mighty viclor no longer glories in his ftrength, 
 nor boafts his conquefts ! 
 
 " Oh! Death, how (hocking mud the fammons b* 
 ** To him who is at eafe in his pofTemons ; 
 •« Who, counting on long years of pleafure here, 
 " Is quite unfurnifh'd for the world to come. 
 *' In that dread moment, how the frantic foal- 
 " Raves round the walls of her clay tenement ; 
 " Runs to each avenue, and fhrieks for help ; 
 " But lhrieks in vain ! how wifhfully fhe looks 
 <c On all (he's leaving — now no longer tier's ! 
 " A little longer — yet a little fpace ! 
 " Oh ! might fhe flay to wafh away her flains, 
 " And fit her for her paffage !** 
 
 But fweet is the fleep of death to him, wbd 
 by a patient endurance of earthly fufferings, and 
 a uniform perfeverance in the ways of virtue, 
 has fecured to himfelf the favour of that bleffed 
 Mediator, who having " in his own perfon over- 
 " come the fharpnefs of death," hath made it 
 the paffage to everlafting manfions of bappinefs 
 and joy. 
 
 V 
 
JO A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. IIL 
 
 Cld Woodjlock. — •Beythorpe.—Enjlom.— Stratford on Avon.** 
 Shah/pear* 
 
 Early the next morning I walked to Old 
 Wood/lock, where the ftage coaches flop, and not- 
 withstanding the keened wind, which I ever re- 
 member to have felt, blew from the north eaft, 
 mounted the roof of the firft machine which ar~ 
 rived, being anxious to reach Strafford on Avon. 
 
 I have fcarcely feen any part of Great Britain 
 lefs interefting to the traveller than the road over 
 which we paifed ; no object worth mentioning 
 prefenting itfelf, unlefs I mould particularize the 
 wall with which the park at Blenheim is inclofed, 
 the work of Henry the Firft, whofe grandfon, of 
 the fame name, rendered Woodjlock famous in 
 our old hlftories, by the " delightful bower" 
 which he made there for Rofa?nond Clifford. 
 
 John Rous, the antiquary, fpeaking of the 
 park at Wood/lock as the firft enclofure of the 
 kind in England^ has thefe words, cs etiam in 
 « Anglia parcum de Woodjlock cum palacio, in- 
 
 " fra 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 3 1 
 
 " fra prsdi£tum parcum, qui parcus erat primus 
 " parcus Anglic, et pro eo fiendo plures villse 
 " deftru&as funt, &c." and in the " Appendix 
 ** to Robert of Gloucefter" by Hearne, are the 
 following lines: 
 
 «< Then regnyd Harry, nought full wyfc, 
 
 li The fon of Mold the emperyfe, 
 
 " He held Roftmund the fheen 
 
 " Gret forwe hit was for the queen : N 
 
 «* At Wodejloke for hure he made a toure 
 
 " That is called Rofemounde\ boure." 
 
 Hollinjhead alfo fays, " King Henry the Second 
 ** made for Rofamond an houfe at Woodjlocke^ 
 " like to a labyrinth, Sec." 
 
 Beyond Woodjlock the plantations at Heythorpe, 
 the feat of the Earl of Shrewjbury, now arrived 
 at the full perfection of matured growth, mock 
 the drearinefs of the furrounding country, which, 
 neither enriched with verdure, diverfified with 
 cattle, nor varied by a hedge-row, or even a 
 hawthorn, flretches into a broad expanfe of cold, 
 bleak-looking, level fields, difguftfully feparated 
 from each other by rude (lone walls. 
 
 At En/lone, we flopped to breakfaft 5 but the 
 inn being kept by one of the proprietors of the 
 coach, we had not finished a fcanty repafl before 
 
32 A JOURNEY 
 
 we were fumnioned to refume our places, ill 2 
 
 tone of authority which implied little lefs than ail 
 
 abfolute command. We were very ill fortified 
 
 againfl the wind and the froft by what we had 
 
 been able to procure ; and fo, in no very good 
 
 humour, and fhivering all the time with cold ? 
 
 we growled at each other, till we reached Ship- 
 
 Jlon. 
 
 The water-works at E/i/lone, elaborately de- 
 
 fcribed by Doctor PIott 9 the Hiftorian of Oxford- 
 jhire, are contained in a fmall building at the end 
 of the village. Their celebrity, however* has 
 declined, in the fame proportion as the formality 
 of Dutch gardening has given place to the ratio- 
 nal arrangements of modern times. 
 
 Thefe water-works were originally projected 
 by Mr. Bujhell, who had been fervant to the im- 
 mortal Lord Bacon, and was afterwards furveyor, 
 or farmer, of the king's minerals in Wales. 
 
 The profpecl: from Long Compton Hill is ex ten- 
 five, but the fcenery is neither pi&urefque nor 
 interefting, and the wind was fo exceffively tern- 
 peltuous that it was with difficulty we kept our 
 feats on the roof of the coach. 
 
 The road paffes a good family houfe a little 
 beyond Ship/ton^ with a large fheet of water in a 
 
 meadow 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 33 
 
 meadow before it, leaves the little village of Hal* 
 ford, and a fmall white houfe exactly in the fhape 
 of a knife-box, on the right, and enters the en- 
 clofures. 
 
 In a fpacious meadow, by the fide of a wind- 
 ing brook, there is a fnug little box, which ap- 
 pears capable of great improvement ; but it is at 
 prefent vilely difgraced by its glare of white- wafh, 
 and want of trees. 
 
 Entered Stratford by a long narrow bridge 
 over the Avon, built, as appears by an inscription 
 on a pillar (landing on the north fide of it, by 
 Sir Hugh Clopton, Knt. a citizen of London, in the 
 reign of Henry the feventh. 
 
 It is a mod fortunate circumftance for Strat- 
 ford, that Shakefpear was born here ; fuch aa 
 event was necefTary to render it worthy of notice; 
 for the town turns its back on the road, and thofe 
 who might be inclined to deviate from it, and to 
 pafs through the flreet, are prevented by the in- 
 tolerable roughnefs of the pavement. 
 
 Avon glides along with great elegance, but 
 only one man of fortune has been found with tafte 
 enough to fettle on its bank, the reft of the houfes 
 which fkirt the river being chiefly inhabited by 
 the lower claffes. 
 
 D In 
 
34 A JOURNEY** 
 
 In the middle of the town is a neat feffiont 
 houfe, in which are two pictures of the great 
 Shake/pear , by Wilfon ; and Garrkk, from a copy 
 of Gain/borough. The front is alfo adorned with 
 an indifferent ftatue of the former, in the fame 
 attitude as the figure on his monument, in Weft* 
 fninfter Abbey* 
 
 " To paint fair nature, By divine command, 
 
 ** Her magic pencil in his glowing hand, 
 
 ** A Shake/pear rofe — then, to expand his fame 
 
 ** Wide o'er this breathing world, a Garrich cam©* 
 
 " Though funk in death the forma the poet drew y 
 
 # * The adtor's genius bade them breathe anew. 
 
 ** Though, like the bard himfelf, in night they lay- 
 
 *« Immortal Garrick call'd them back to day ; 
 
 M And, 'till eternity,, with power fublime, 
 
 " Shall mark the mortal hour of hoary time, 
 
 s< Shake/pear and Garrick) like twin liars mail fhine r 
 
 ** And earth irradiate, with a beam dftitK.** 
 
 Pieces of Shake/pear's mulberry tree continue 
 to be fold in a variety of fhapes, — in tobacco 
 Hoppers, fnuff boxes, &.c. and, no doubt, there 
 will be found an ample fupply of thefe facred re- 
 lics, till the end of time. The man who fells ir r 
 however, will, at any time, vouch for its being 
 genuine, and the fame teftimony may very pro- 
 bably be obtained from his children in the next 
 
 century- 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. $5 
 
 century. A whole foreft could fcarcely have 
 fupplied materials fufficient to have formed half 
 the trinkets which have been already difpofed of j 
 but fo long as credulity lads, there will be found 
 knaves ready to pocket the money of the weak 
 and fuperftitious. 
 
 The edifice which has been called the great 
 church of Stratford (though for no reafon that 
 I can difcover diftinguifhed by that epithet) 
 ftands in a low piece of ground warned by the 
 Avon,) which renders the building exceflively 
 damp and incommodious. 
 
 Here lie the mortal remains of Shake/pearl 
 €t The man whofe merits deferve a temple/ ' finds 
 in this place an humble tomb. His grave is 
 near the altar, under a plain blue Hone, with 
 his name and the well known lines following : 
 
 " Reader, for Jefus' fake, forbear 
 
 *' To dig the duft enclofed here ; 
 " Bleft be the man who fpares thefe flones, 
 
 •' And curft be he who moves my bones." 
 
 He died on the 23d of April, 1616", aged S3* 
 
 The effigy, in alabafter, of the fame great 
 
 man, is placed againft the north wall of the 
 
 chancel,— a clumfy piece of ftatuary, every way 
 
 D % unworthy 
 
$6 A JOURN1Y 
 
 unworthy of him whom it is defigned to repre* 
 fent. 
 
 Contigious to the church is a charnel houfe, 
 full of bones, which have been perfectly bleached 
 by long expofure to the air. It has been faid 
 that this place fuggefted to the Bard the folemn 
 {eerie of the grave digger, in " Hamlet" but it 
 feems more likely to have fuggefted the quaint 
 lines which reflect difgrace rather than honour 
 on his tomb. 
 
 There are fome inferiptions in memory of the 
 family of Coonibe, to which Shake/pear was rela- 
 ted ; and a large painted and gilt monument 
 of the Cloptons, with recumbent effigies of George 
 Carew, Earl of Totnefs, Baron Carew of Clopton^ 
 and the Lady Joke his wife. 
 
 The church of Stratford claims fome peculiar 
 privileges, and its vicar is exempt from the ju* 
 xifdiclion of the Archdeacon of Worcefter. 
 
 Welcome Hills, (now the feat of Mr. Lloyd) at 
 the diftanee of about a mile from Stratford, was 
 the refidence of John Coombe, uncle of the im- 
 mortal Shah/pear : but they who look for wild, 
 romantic, or beautiful fcenery, as images of the 
 vafi conception of this wonderful man, will be 
 disappointed. His impreflions were not received 
 
 from 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 37 
 
 from furrounding objects, — they were the fponta. 
 neous productions of native and original genius. 
 Here, indeed, he was born, and here he died : 
 and thefe events formed the whole of the con- 
 nexion between Shake/pear and Stratford, 
 
 " Far from the fun and Cummer gale, 
 
 '* In thy green lap was Nature's darling laid, 
 
 •* What time, where lucid Avon ft rayed ; 
 
 '* To him the mighty mother did unveil 
 
 44 Her awful face j the daunrless child 
 
 " Stretch'd forth his little arms, and fmil'd. 
 
 " This pencil take (fhe faid) whofe colours clear, 
 
 ic Richly paint the vernal year: 
 
 (t Thine too thefe golden keys, immortal boy! 
 
 " This can unlock the gates of joy, 
 
 '* Of horror that, and thrilling fears, 
 
 " Or ope the facred fource of fympathetic tears." 
 
 A very ferene walk of lime trees, bent into an 
 arbour, reaches from the entrance of the church 
 yard to the north door. 
 
 It too frequently happens that a man's poverty 
 is as infurmountable a bar to the good opinion 
 of his neighbours, as to his advancement in life. 
 Of this remark I had an ample illuftration at 
 Stratford. The ftory is very fliort, and limply 
 this. 
 
 D 3 Having 
 
38 A JOURNEY 
 
 Having an intention to be prefent at divine 
 fervice, I made fome enquiries refpecling the 
 afternoon preacher, but received fuch a forbid* 
 ding account of the clergyman, that no other ex- 
 citement but that of curiofity could poffibly have 
 induced me to become one of his auditors. I 
 went, however, and though with no defign " to 
 "feoff" certainly with no very, fervent hope of 
 improvement, — but how happily and agreeably I 
 was difappoirited, this fentence fhall be a lading 
 teftimony. 
 
 The language and fentiments of the preacher 
 foon recalled my attention, and rivetted it upon 
 the facred truths which ifTued from his lips with 
 irrefiflible force. The difcourfe was every thing 
 which it ought to be \ — it was plain, corre£t, and 
 intelligible!— it was nervous, claflical, and im- 
 preffive ! I know not whether it came from the 
 heart, but every one of the congregation muft 
 have felt that it reached to it, — which is, I be- 
 lieve, the bed proof we could have of the lince- 
 rity and earneftnefs of the preacher, I found 
 afterwards, that this clergyman was poor and un* 
 fortunate : had he been rich and oftentatious, 
 * c the fcribes and pharifees" of Stratford would 
 have " praifed and adored him 5 ' as readily as 
 
 their God? 
 
 If 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. g$ 
 
 If this remark mould reach them I will only 
 recommend a little more charity towards one ano- 
 ther, than was (hewn in the inftance above re- 
 lated ; and that they will not prefume to fhift 
 the reflection to their neighbours, but quietly fuf- 
 fer them who deferve the cenfure, ferioufly to 
 apply ft to themfelves. 
 
 Near the church formerly flood an old man- 
 fion called the college, probably from its fcite 
 having been the foundation of a building be- 
 longing to the church at its erection, in the reign 
 of King Edward the Second, when it was col- 
 legiate. This building has been completely de- 
 molifhed, and the ground on which it flood is 
 converted into a garden. 
 
 D 4 
 
40 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Alcejler. — Ragky. — Drottwich.—Salt Springs. — Approach to 
 Worcejler, 
 
 From Stratford I purfued my journey on horfe- 
 back, and took the road to Bro?nfgrove, which 
 pafies through an enclofed country, and after- 
 wards, winding to the left, enters Alcefter by a 
 bridge over the river Arrow, which appears to 
 have been lately rebuilt, but has the date 1600 
 on a ftone fixed in the parapet. 
 
 Alcefter is, as the name fignifies, a town of 
 great antiquity, and was a Roman ftation. There 
 are no records preferved of its former grandeur 
 or importance, but feveral coins have been dis- 
 covered from time to time, and two urns, which 
 were dug out of a fepulchral barrow, are now 
 in the poffemon of a gentleman of the town. 
 
 Alcefter is, at prefent, a place of little note, 
 and even the turnpike road paffes rather by than 
 through it, 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 41 
 
 The church is a venerable pile, fituated in the 
 centre of the town, and contains a monument of 
 the family of Grevil/e. 
 
 Ragfey, the feat of the Marquis of Hertford, is 
 elevated on a commanding eminence, about a 
 mile from Alcefter. The houfe is handfomely 
 built of (lone, and the park charmingly wooded. 
 
 Quitting the Bromfgrove road foon after hav- 
 ing left Alcefter^ turned to the left towards 
 Droitzvich. 
 
 On approaching the very borders of Worcef- 
 terjhlre, I found myfelf in the region of Pomona; 
 every cottage is furrounded with apple-trees, and 
 every profpeft affords an induftrious thriving po- 
 pulous fcene. 
 
 The road rifes and declines very fuddenly, and 
 gratifies the traveller with fome pleafing views of 
 the woods and plantations of Ragley, 
 
 Winding to the left, a beautiful retrofpe&ive 
 view is prefented, of a rich and fertile valley, 
 bounded with gentle eminences. Beyond, the 
 road becomes flatly infipid and difagreeable, pafT- 
 ing in a direcl line for four or five miles down 
 a green lane : the way is rough, and the turf, by 
 the fides, foft, moify, and yielding. The coun- 
 try around is diverfifted with hill and valley, but 
 
 the 
 
42 A JOURNEY 
 
 the one is not bold enough to be fublime, and 
 the other wants extent, to make it interefting. 
 The profpe&s are indeed neat, and every where 
 exhibit proofs of good hufbandry. 
 
 Breakfafted at Fakenham, a poor place, neither 
 a town nor a village ; that is neither populous 
 nor rural. Rode to DroitwUh> celebrated for its 
 fait fprings. 
 
 The town feems to be declining, the buildings 
 are difcoloured with fmoke, half of the houfes 
 vacant, and the countenances of the inhabitants 
 are pale, fallow, and fqualid. The pecuniary 
 compenfation for their labour is very fmall, and 
 even the mofl induitrious can not, without dif- 
 ficulty, procure the neceffaries of life. 
 
 The fume arifing from the brine pits was fo 
 intolerably ofFenfive that I had no inclination 
 to examine the procefs of making fait, by a mi- 
 nute infpeftion of the works ; neither, indeed, 
 is there any thing very curious in it. The brine 
 was not fo (hong formerly as it is at prefent. A 
 gentleman, about the year 1725, having acci- 
 dentally heard that the fait fprings in Chejlrire 
 were dug to a greater depth, caufed the flratum 
 of talc or gypfum at the bottom of his pits to be 
 bored through, when a current of very flrong 
 
 brine 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 43 
 
 brine immediately burft forth with prodigious 
 violence, which rendered the old fprings of little 
 value, and ever fince that time, there has been 
 a great fuperabundance of brine. 
 
 An ancient church Hands on a deep hill, and 
 con lifts of a fquare tower, with two aifles at* 
 tached to the north fide of it, and a third awk- 
 wardly (luck on at the eaft end. 
 
 It is difficult to fay how long the fait fprings 
 here have been difcovered, but it Is certain that 
 they were highly celebrated as early as the days 
 of King Alfred. ~ 
 
 After leaving Droitwich the road gradually 
 improves as you approach nearer the fair city of 
 Worcejter ; the Malvern Hills breaking into the 
 profpect. at fome diflance. The cottages which 
 border the road are the mod comfortable and ru- 
 ral that can be imagined, and to each is attached 
 a large piece of garden ground, which is kept 
 incomparably neat, and in the highefl ftate of 
 cultivation. 
 
 One mile from Worcejler a gentle eminence 
 affords a pleating view of the town, with the 
 fpires of the churches fprouting from among the 
 trees, the neat villas in its neigbourhood, and 
 the magnificently fwelling bofom of the hills of 
 Malvern. 
 
44 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 City. Cathedral Churchy and Bridge of Worcejler. 
 
 There is nothing very finking in the imme- 
 diate approach to Worcefler, and the objects of 
 curiofity and attraction within the town itfe'lf are 
 few ; but an air of neatnefs and elegant fimpli- 
 city pervades every part of it. The flreets are 
 excellently paved, and a uniformity of building 
 prevails, in which it far exceeds almofl every 
 town in England, excepting Bath. 
 
 The Cathedral Church, which ftands on the 
 bank of the Severn, has been lately repaired and 
 beautified, with confiderable tafte. I am not, 
 however, of opinion, t that the mod ancient mo- 
 numents are rendered either more venerable or 
 more appropriate, by being painted of a pea* 
 green colour. 
 
 The inimitable monument of that virtuous and 
 amiable prelate, Doctor John Hough, by Row 
 billlac, which is placed on one fide of the en- 
 trance to the choir, has been frequently noticed ; 
 
 that 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 45 
 
 that of Bifnop Maddox, on the oppofite fide, 
 feems to have been overlooked : it is, however, a 
 noble memorial, and records a great character. 
 
 There are many monuments of perfons, who, 
 * as John/on obferved on another occafion, did not 
 think that their names would be fo foon for- 
 gotten ; and among them are a few of confider- 
 able antiquity. 
 
 The pufillanimous and unfortunate King John 
 is buried in the choir ; but, it is faid, not under 
 his monument. 
 
 On the fouth fide of the altar, in a fmall ora* 
 tory, lie the remains of Prince Arthur^ elded 
 fon of King Henry the feventh. 
 
 The organ is highly ornamented with gilding, 
 and various' embellifhments, which do not very 
 well accord with the neat fimplicity of the 
 church. 
 
 The epifcopal throne is an unoftentatious feat, 
 furmounted with a mitre, but otherwife entirely 
 deftitute of ornament. The eaft and well win- 
 dows are of flained glafs ; but the arrangement 
 of the colours is fo contrived, as to produce a 
 very unpleafant effect on the eye ; particularly in 
 the eaft window. The fouth fide of this edifice 
 exhibits marks of antiquity evidently fuperior to 
 2 the 
 
4*> A jOtl&KEY 
 
 the refl of the building ; and the reafon for k 
 feems to be, that this fide being completely hid* 
 den by the furrounding buildings, and protected 
 by the caftle, has undergone lefs alteration than 
 the other parts of the church. 
 
 Eaftward of the Cathedral is an old gateway, 
 called Edgar's Tower ; about which antiquaries 
 have been much divided in their opinions. Ha- 
 bingdon, a learned man, who wrote fomewhat more 
 than a century ago, fuppofed that it was erected 
 in the days of King John ; by whofe name it 
 has, however, ceafed to be clidinguiihed. The 
 date 1005 is faid.tohave been cut in Gothic cha- 
 racters on a fmali fhield over the point of the 
 arch ; but Doctor Littleton, dean of Exeter, very 
 judicioufly remarked, that the ityle of architec- 
 ture alone was fufficient to prove that it mud 
 have been built at a later period ; for the Saxon 
 arch was ufed, with very little variation, till th« 
 xeign of King Stephen ; and it is by no means 
 certain, that the three figures ftill remaining on 
 the eaft fide of the gateway, were defigned for 
 Edgar and his two queens. 
 
 Doctor Littleton quotes a manufcript of Mr. 
 Habingdon's in fupport of his opinion, that the 
 central of thefe three figures (which is a flatue 
 
 fitting 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 47 
 
 fitting crofs legged) was to reprefent King John; 
 but after all I fee no objection to admit the an- 
 tiquity of the ftatues, though the tower itfelf 
 may be much more modern. Every thing about 
 it confpires to evince that its age is not fo very 
 great as fome have fuppofed ; and if it had re- 
 ally been built at a very remote period, it mould 
 feem a little extraordinary that it was called King 
 John's Tower, in the year 1232, when Henry 
 the third gave to the prior and convent here 
 fnuated, one moiety of his caftle ; and divided 
 the premifes by an embattled wall, part of whichr 
 is dill remaining. 
 
 As to the date, whether it be 957 (as fome 
 fay) or 1005, it is probable that the (lone on 
 which the figures remained might be worked up 
 m the new building : for they who fuppofe that 
 this edifice was built in the reign of Ethelred 
 the fecond, allow that what was called the "New 
 Tower/' fell down in 1 175. I do not recoiled 
 that this circumftance has been attended to by 
 Habingdon, Doctor Thomas, Doctor Littleton, or 
 Doctor Najh ; but it is at leaft fair to conjec- 
 ture, that this New Tower was the work of Ed- 
 gar ; and that King John, among other improve- 
 ments of the Cattle, built the prefent gateway- 
 out 
 
48 A JOURNEY 
 
 out of the old materials ; a prefumption reafori* 
 ably fupported by the ftyle of building, as well 
 as its decorations* 
 
 The Tower above mentioned feems to have 
 been the entrance both to the Clofe and the Caf- 
 tle', of which lad the mount, in which the keep, 
 perhaps, formerly flood, is the only trace re- 
 maining, 
 
 Thomas Habingdon, before quoted, who though 
 a rigid Roman Catholic, was alfo a perfon of 
 great humanity ; engaged in defigns for the re- 
 leafe of Mary Queen of Scots, which nearly colt 
 him his life : he was, however, pardoned ; but 
 this efcape did not deter him from being con- 
 cerned in the Gunpowder Plot, or at lead har- 
 bouring the confpirators ; in confequence of 
 which he was confined for life to his native 
 county, where he employed his life in collect- 
 ing materials for its hiftory. 
 
 Worcefter Cafile was fituated on the fouth-eaft 
 fide of the Cathedral, and part of its fcite is now 
 occupied by fome of the prebend al houfes. Part 
 of the ancient wall which enclofed the Cafile 
 is ftill remaining near the Severn, and not far 
 from the Cathedral : and on a brafs plate af- 
 fixed to it, clofe to a poftern gate, two violent 
 
 and 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 49 
 
 and dreadful inundations, from the overflowing 
 of the river, are recorded ; by the laft of which 
 the whole of the circumjacent country was laid 
 under water. 
 
 Mr. Green, in his " View of Worcejler" men- 
 tions the firft of thefe inundations, in 1484, in 
 the reign of Richard the third, which happened 
 at the very time when the Duke of Buckingham, 
 at the head of his Welch partizans, was preparing 
 to crofs the Severn, and oppofe the tyrant's 
 forces. 
 
 Thus Shake/pear makes a mefienger fpeak to 
 King Richard : 
 
 a . by fu (Men -floods and falls of water, 
 
 " Buckingham' s army is difpers'd and fcatter'd, 
 '*' And he himfelf wander'd away alone, 
 u No man knows whither." 
 
 Worcefier, having made a confpicuous figure 
 in the Englifh hiftory at various periods, the 
 events by which it has been diftinguifhed are too 
 well known for the public to require a further 
 account of them ; that man, however, muft bein- 
 fenfible to the real welfare of his country, who can 
 pafs through the town, without making a compa- 
 nion between the difafters and carnage of thofe 
 unhappy times, when Rebellion openly (talked 
 E abroad, 
 
50 A JOURNEY 
 
 abroad, and thefe fair ftreets were deluged with- 
 blood, and the quiet unmolefted fecurity of the 
 prefent age, in which the induftrious artizan 
 peaceably enjoys the fruit of his honed labours ; 
 the rich liberally aflift the diftrefTes of the indi- 
 gent, and the laws equally protecl therh all. 
 
 King Charles the fecond feems not to have 
 been unmindful of the afliftance whicfy the 
 crown derived, from the fidelity and attachment 
 of the men of Worcefter, in the civil war ; and 
 accordingly he bellowed considerable privileges 
 on the city, as fomecompenfation for the blood 
 which 'had been fpilt in that unhappy conteft. 
 
 In the front of the Guildhall, which is a com- 
 modious building, are two indifferent ftatues of 
 Charles the firffc and fecond, in their royal robes. 
 It is remarkable, that the former is reprefented 
 holding a model of a church very high, in his 
 left hand, and his fceptre very low ; and that the 
 latter lifts the fceptre above his head. 
 
 The following motto is infcribed along the 
 front of the .building :~- 
 
 " FL0REAT SEMPER FIDELIS CIVITAS." 
 
 It being Sunday, we had ro opportunity of 
 
 infpe&ing the china and carpet manufactories, in 
 
 which 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. $1 
 
 which a confiderable number of hands are con- 
 itantly employed ; but we had an opportunity of 
 feeing the ftreets thronged with well-drefled peo- 
 ple during the greatefl part of the day. 
 
 One of the parifh churches, dedicated to St. 
 Andrew, is ornamented with a delicate fpire of 
 great height ; and I could not but fancy its per- 
 fect fymmetry, a great honour to Mr. Wilkinfon 
 its architect. 
 
 The Severn flows on the fouth fide of the town, 
 with vaft grandeur j and a handfome bridge of 
 five arches, with a profufely ornamented baluf- 
 trade, has been erected over it, by Guynn, at the 
 expence of the corporation, who continue to re- 
 ceive a toll from every perfon pairing it, although 
 it has been completed upwards of nineteen years. 
 An infcription on the eafl fide informs us, that 
 the Earl of Coventry, lord lieutenant of the 
 county, and recorder of the city, laid the firft 
 {tone ; and the name of the mayor of Worcejier, 
 and the architect, are preferved on the oppo- 
 site wall. 
 
 E2 
 
5^ A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 «< Severn's famed Meads." — Malvern Pillage, Hill, and Bath. 
 Morton Cajlle, 
 
 Crossing the Severn by the bridge before men- 
 tioned, we patted the village of St. John's, which 
 may be confrdered as a kind of fuburbs to Wor- 
 cejier ; turned to the left, and proceeded towards 
 Hereford, 
 
 The meadows by the Severn fide, defervedly 
 celebrated for their verdure and fertility, ftretched 
 themfelves on our left, and here and there the 
 fwelling fails of the barges gave grace and life 
 to the pi&ure. 
 
 The fecundity of the foil is mentioned by Sfi* 
 merville: 
 
 " On thefe luxuriant banks, flow'rs of all hues 
 ** Start up fpontaneous ; and the teeming foil, 
 '* With hafty moots, prevents its owner's prayer : 
 *' The pamper'd wanton fleer, of the fharp axe 
 *' Regardlefs, that o'er his devoted head 
 " Hangs menacing, crops his delicious bane ; 
 " Nor knows the price is life : with envious eye, 
 
 * Hit 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 53 
 
 " His lab'ring yoke-fellow beholds his plight, 
 
 i( And deems him bleft, while on his languid neck, 
 
 " In folemn floth, he tugs the ling'ring plough." 
 
 We were forewarned by the noife of the an- 
 vils, of our approach to an iron-foundery. It is 
 called Powicsford, and ftands on the banks of 
 the Tetne, which has been made navigable by 
 the proprietor of the foundery, to its junction 
 with the Severn, about a mile diftant. 
 
 Here the road interfe&s a moil beautiful mea- 
 dow. Part of it, on the left, marked with the traces 
 of the plough, though nearly obliterated ; but 
 every inequality is completely worn out of the 
 oppofite fide, where it ftretches itfelf for at lead 
 an hundred acres, as fmooth and level as a bowl- 
 ing-green. 
 
 After palling through the village of Powlc 9 
 which contains feveral handfome houfes, that ex- 
 hibit the appearance of retirement, convenience, 
 and hofpitality, the road ferpentizes, and, by a 
 gentle afcent, gains the fummit of a hill which 
 affords an agreeable profpecl; of part of the vale 
 of Evejha?n 9 rich in cultivation, and fprinkled 
 with orchards. The hop-grounds alio begin to 
 make a diftinguifhed appearance; and* the lofty 
 E 3 fummits 
 
54 A JOURNEY 
 
 fumtnits of Malvern, on which the clouds fre- 
 quently reded themfelves, and then majeilically 
 receded, clofed the view. 
 
 The breadth of the valley towards the north, 
 and the very moderate height of the hills, which 
 form the horizon on that fide, confpire to ren- 
 der Malvern the glory of this part of the coun- 
 try ; and fhe foars unrivalled into the clouds. 
 
 An old fong in the quaint ftyle of the fixteenth 
 century, has the following verfe : 
 
 " Turn up thine eyes on highe, 
 
 " There fairly ftanding, 
 *< See Malvern's higheft hill, 
 
 41 All hills commanding j 
 1 They all confefs at will, 
 " Their fov'reigne Malvern hill, 
 " Le't it be mighty ftill: 
 
 i( O praiie the Lord I-" 
 
 Malvern hills are the termination of an exten- 
 five range of eminences, which come from the 
 eaft, and the higheft parts are two pretty deep 
 points, at the weflern extremity. 
 
 We perceived that we were gradually advanc- 
 ing on the verge of the bafis of this mountain, 
 foon after we had palled the fifth mile (lone from 
 Worcefer } and at length reached Great Mal- 
 vern. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 5$ 
 
 item, a neat village of well-built brick houfes ; 
 and containing a fine old church, the tower of 
 which is faid to have been erected in the reign 
 of the Conqueror. 
 
 The profufion of painted glafs which formerly 
 decorated the richly- ftoried windows of this edi« 
 ficej is almoft wholly deftroyed ; and the ancient 
 monuments are fad falling to decay. This was 
 not originally the parochial church, but pur- 
 chafed by the inhabitants, at the dhTolution of 
 monafteries. 
 
 At the entrance of the church-yard is an an- 
 tique gateway, ornamented with feveral fhields, 
 on which were formerly coats of arms, now ut j 
 terly defaced. 
 
 Among the houfes of Malvern are fome which 
 deferve the title of elegant, and many, which, 
 by their rural fimplicity* do credit to the tafte 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
 Notwithstanding the objections which Mr. Gil* 
 pin, and Mr. Tomkins, who has copied him, may 
 have made to the effect of white objects in per- 
 ipeclive, I infift, that if thjefe gentlemen had 
 viewed the pleafing contrafl produced by the 
 neat cottages at the foot of Malvern, to the 
 neighbouring foil and the contiguous objects* 
 E 4 the/ 
 
56 A JOURNEY 
 
 they would have been inclined to ameliorate, IF 
 not to retract, their former opinions. 
 
 At the foot of Malvern we found the Galan* 
 thus nivalis, flowering wild; and among the 
 rocks the Sedum album of Linn&us. 
 
 While a little refrefhment was preparing for 
 us, at the Crown Hotel, a fnug comfortable houfe* 
 which itfelf commands a beautiful view, we af- 
 cended the hill, and gained the fummit with little 
 difficulty \ and that little might have been 
 avoided, if we had had humility enough to alk 
 for inflru&ions, or fufficient difcernment to have 
 noticed a zig-zag path which leads from the gar- 
 den of the inn, and by which a horfe might 
 eahly afcend. 
 
 The fcenery from the top of Malvern, has fre- 
 quently been commented on, and two poems 
 have lately made their appearance on the fubjecl. 
 After this I ought, perhaps, to content myfelf 
 with filently admiring what my pen is io inade- 
 quate to defcribe ; and the rather, as the view 
 which I had of the country, was obfcured, in eve* 
 ry direction, by a cloudy atmofphere. I cannot, 
 however, omit to remark, that even the wind- 
 ings of the Severn itfelf, and the famed meads 
 through which it flows, do not compenfate for 
 9 tlie 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. tf 
 
 the want of bold and linking fcenery. There 
 are no forefts, no lakes, no woodland profpe&Sj 
 no rough and boldly-projecting eminences, no 
 rocks ; nor that waving line, which beautifies a 
 diftant horizon, and like the zone of the fair 
 goddefs, adds the delicacy of elegance to the de- 
 lights which it enclofes. 
 
 The ground on the fouth fide of Malvern is 
 broken by gentle inequalities, and innumerable 
 orchards and hop-gardens are interfperfed among 
 the riches of Ceres. 
 
 The profpecl in an oppofite direction is more 
 crowded, the towns of Tewk&fbury and Evejham^ 
 the one diftinguifhed by its church, at a hazy 
 diftance, and the other by a bridge, are features 
 of importance ; and the eye is involuntarily at- 
 tracted to the fpires and buildings of Worcejier, 
 which recall the memory of pad events, and 
 picture to the imagination thofe great and ferious 
 fcenes which have, in fome meafure, rendered it 
 claflic ground. 
 
 Malvern hills were part of the ancient forefl 
 
 of that name ; and the flump of a tree, of confi- 
 
 derable fize, is itiil vifible, not far from the very 
 
 fummit. Thus Drayton or Ben John/on^ I forget 
 
 which, fays, 
 
 "Paa 
 
58 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Pan may go pipe in ban-en Malvern chafe. ** 
 
 There may alfo be traced the courfe of £ 
 fmall trench, which was made to divide the fo- 
 re ft from the land of the Bifiiop of Hereford, in 
 the time of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, 
 ion- in-law of King Edward the Firft, to whom 
 that monarch had given this domain; which, 
 when it thus became the property of a fubjefl:, 
 loll its royai appellation of for 'eft and took that 
 of Malvern Chafe. 
 
 The air on the fummit of the hill is exceffively 
 mild and pleafant ; fo that the fatigue of afcend-r 
 ing is almoft immediately cured, by the bracing 
 and reftorative coolnefs of the atmofphere. 
 
 The degree of temperature on the top and at 
 the foot of this eminence varies confiderably ; and 
 they who defcend very rapidly, fometimes feel a 
 flight degree of faintnefs not unlike that which 
 happens to perfons of delicate habits, on going 
 into a crowded room,- or exchanging the freedom 
 of breathing in the open air, for the confinement 
 and clofenefs of a theatre. 
 
 Thefe hills give birth to two famous fprings, 
 which have been much reforted to, in cutaneous 
 difeafes. They are remarkably light d.nd pure, 
 
 ffightly 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 59 
 
 Slightly chalybeate, and in their effects gently 
 diuretic. 
 
 Although I do not mean to difpute, much 
 lefs to deny, the efficacy of thefe waters, I can 
 not help thinking that the falubrity of the air has 
 often contributed, in no fmall degree, to the re- 
 covery of thofe who refort to them. Let not the 
 whole of the praife then be given to the Malvern, 
 baths. 
 
 On our return to the inn, we were regaled 
 with potted lampreys, for which this county has 
 been long famous, and for thp enjoyment of 
 which our ramble up the hill had provided us 
 with an excellent appetite. 
 
 A houfe for the reception of thofe who vifit 
 the fprings, has been erected at about the 
 diftance of two miles from Great Malvern, near 
 the turnpike road, which runs along the foot of 
 the hill. 
 
 PafTed the village of Little Malvern, which 
 contains nothing remarkable but its old church 
 crumbling into decay ; and afcended a fteep hill, 
 which brought us to a fort of pafs, through 
 which the road leads to Ledbury. 
 
 The furface of the Malvern hills is, in gene- 
 ral covered with a foft moffy turf, which feeds 
 
 abundance 
 
6q a journey 
 
 abundance of fheep, excepting where it is varie- 
 gated by patches of fern, or darkened with 
 rocky projections : at the eaftern part, however, 
 the colour is a bright yellow. 
 
 Arriving at the top of the hill, two eminences 
 prefented themfelves on the left, which almofl 
 adjoin each other : they are encircled with a 
 deep fofle, and denominated Morten Caftle •, pro- 
 bably a Britijh camp, but of which no records 
 have been preferved. 
 
 We now loft fight of the vale of Eve/ham, 
 but were, the next moment, confoled for it, by 
 an extenfive opening in an oppofite direction, 
 full of orchards* difperfsd over an undulating 
 country. 
 
 A pretty houfe at the foot of Malvern com- 
 mands a pleafing view to the fouth, and is in it- 
 felf, an agreeable object from the road. 
 
 Having defcended into the valley, a retrofpecl: 
 of ■ the ground we had paffed, aitorded a full view 
 of Morton Caflle (called by the common peo- 
 ple Caftle Ditch) and enabled us to diftinguifh 
 the double eminence, which is occupied by 
 that fortification. The wefternmoft point appears 
 like a fort of prstorium, and has been enclofed 
 with three 'lines of caftrametaticn, befides the 
 
 deep 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 6"l 
 
 deep fofie which includes it, in common with 
 the contiguous eminence. The dimenfions of 
 the area are not lefs than forty acres. 
 
 The foil here is a deep clay, but the fertility 
 of the meadow land is not very remarkable. I 
 thought that it feemed to require a greater de- 
 gree of labour and induflry than is beflowed on 
 it : the fpontaneous bounty of nature being apt 
 to make hufbandmen indolent ; and the advan- 
 tages which they derive from their orchards ren- 
 dering them, in fome degree, negligent of agri- 
 cultural improvements : but a worthy clergy-? 
 man, who was for many years a refident in this 
 part of the country, afTures me, that the abun- 
 dance of fprings which arife on the fouth fide of 
 Malvern, occafions the ruggednefs of the mea- 
 dows below ; and that the farmers are not to be 
 blamed for the unfavourable appearance of their 
 grounds. 
 
 The lofty fpire of Ledbury church burft on the 
 fight between two fteep flopes, one covered with 
 wood, the other planted with orchards ; and we 
 found ourfelves almoft immediately in the town. 
 
(>Z A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Ledhury In Hereford/hire. — Firxons.™- Stoke Court. — Morde- 
 ford.—Fbwnhope. — Profpetls.—Man of Rofs.—The Wye. 
 - — Hljlory of the Dragon of Mordeford—and of other Dra« 
 gons. — River Lug. 
 
 Ledbury Is a very ancient place, and many of 
 the old wooden houfes remain, with (lories pro- 
 jecting over each other into the ftreet. 
 
 The town confifts of one fpacious ftreet, and 
 feveral narrow lanes iffuing from it. The road 
 from Worcejlerjhire to Rofs, is here bifected by 
 that from Gloucefter to Oxford. 
 
 The church bears venerable marks of antiquity, 
 though it has undergone many alterations at dif- 
 ferent periods. 
 
 The fpire, which is about fixty feet in heigh t, 
 ftands on a tower almoft contiguous, but not ad- 
 jacent, to the north end of the tranfept, and 
 is evidently more modern than the reft of the 
 building. 
 
 I am induced to believe that the fouth and 
 north aifles, with an additioa to the north M% 
 
 like 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 63 
 
 Sike the end of a tranfept, have been added to 
 the firft building, which I take to be the middle, 
 or body of the church. 
 
 The ftyle of the ancient building is clearly 
 Saxon, and a very handfome circular arched 
 door way remains at the weft end, between two 
 fmall turrets. 
 
 The window over this entrance has been mo- 
 dernized, to correfpond with thofe at the end of 
 the aifles, which, as well as the fide windows, are 
 gothic. The tracery of the windows in the north 
 crofs aifie is remarkably beautiful. 
 
 There are fome fragments of painted glafs re- 
 maining, both in figures and coat armour. 
 
 The living is a vicarage, and of considerable 
 value. 
 
 Among the " frail memorials" of the departed 
 I read one which affords a molt exemplary leffon 
 to the flattering hopes and expectations of pa- 
 rents. It is a tomb-ftone infcribed with the names 
 of twelve children of Mr. Thomas Freeham, and 
 Hannah his wife, who all died between Decern* 
 her 1759, and March 1775. One of them at- 
 tained his twelfth year, but no other reached the 
 fourth. 
 
 Leaving 
 
64 A JOURNEY 
 
 Leaving Ledbury, the road foon divides, one 
 trad going to Bromyard and Leominfter, the left 
 to Hereford, through a well wooded country 
 abounding with orchards. 
 
 A winding road brought us to Firzons, a large 
 houfe on the right, and we foon afterwards paffed 
 an old manfion in the Elizabethan tafte, with a 
 garden in front, moated round ; and an avenue 
 of Scotch firs. 
 
 The Cottefwold Hills appeared on the left ; 
 Malvern was behind us ; and we now entered a 
 narrow valley, with a wood on one fide ; and the 
 oppofite eminence covered with hop grounds, 
 orchards, and plantations. Winding to the right, 
 an extenfive opening affords a view of feveral 
 parifh churches, with a pleafing difplay of popu- 
 lous and fertile country. 
 
 Paffed the village of Tarrington, which brought 
 us to Stoke Courts the feat of Mr. Foley, an old 
 fafhioned fquare building, with two fpacious 
 wings. It ftands on a kind of terrace, in a well 
 wooded park flocked with deer. 
 
 The church is almoft contiguous ; it is fmall, 
 and perhaps neat, but having a high flender fpire, 
 and a plain parapet of white flone, ail the efforts 
 which have been made to render it pifturefque, 
 
 by 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 65 
 
 by encouraging the growth of ivy at its fides, and 
 planting a fhrubbery around it, will be ineffectual. 
 
 The approach to the park, from Ledbury, is by 
 a neat bricked lodge, the other entrance, through 
 an iron gate clofe to an elegant flone building fur- 
 mounted with a dome. 
 
 The road bifurcates, and both tracts lead to 
 Hereford, but there being no index pod the tra- 
 veller is naturally at a lofs which line he is to 
 purfue. We, by accident, took the left, which 
 brought us to Mr. Hereford 9 s ancient feat — the 
 refidence of the fame family from the time of 
 King Edward the third. 
 
 The prefent poffeifor has erected a modern, 
 houfe nearer, the road than the old manfion, 
 which is, however, preferved with great care; 
 and time, which daily increafes its venerable ap- 
 pearance, contributes likewife to beautify its fitu- 
 ation, by giving an awful folemnity to the wood 
 which inclofes it. 
 
 The ancient furniture is preferved with be- 
 coming care,— and the manfion is one of thofe 
 intereft ing fpecimens of old Engiifh grandeur 
 
 " Where (till, with heraldry's rich hues imprefs'd 
 <s On the dim window, glows the pi&uv'd creft." 
 
 F At 
 
66 A JOURNEY 
 
 At the village of Mordeford we made a flight 
 deviation from the direct road to Hereford, to 
 view a romantic fpot about two miles diflant. 
 
 The road winds at the foot of a fine eminence 
 covered with wood, which rifes with great ma- 
 jefty from the Wye, whofe beautiful meanders and 
 well cultivated banks are feen from it to much 
 advantage. 
 
 We arrived at Mr. Purchases brewery, the 
 fpot to which we had been directed.* It is built 
 on the eaft fide of the Wye, and fheltered by a 
 vafl rock which rifes boldly behind it. 
 
 Mr. Purchas has cut Heps up the hill, planted 
 it with juniper bumes, and other fhrubs, thrown 
 a fcreen of firs along a field on the right, and 
 built a cancellated profpeft houfe on the brow of 
 the deep. Our requeft to be permitted to ex- 
 amine this agreeable place was readily granted j 
 and the proprietor himfelf conducted us through 
 every part of the premifes. 
 
 From the fummit is a mod interefting view of 
 a rich and highly cultivated country. 
 
 The city of Hereford, with its venerable cathe- 
 dral and proud fpires, in a valley on the right j 
 the devious courfe of the Wye, which glides at 
 ihe foot of the hill on which we flood, and bends 
 
 with 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 6j 
 
 with inimitable grace among the meadows ; the 
 Ham, an ancient manfion belonging to the Duke 
 of Norfolk , on the oppofite fide ; with the little 
 village of Foionhope, or Fan-hope, on the left ; 
 and the fpire of Rofs Church peeping over a dif- 
 tant wood. 
 
 There dwelt the venerable man whofe virtuous 
 name, like the pure ftream of Wye which pafled 
 his " modeft manfion", fhall continue to be the 
 pride and glory of his country, and devolve to 
 lateft ages with unfullied luftre, when the me- 
 mory of the great, and the atchievements of the 
 mighty fhall have been long forgotten : 
 
 " For when the boaflful labours of the fage, 
 
 " The conq'ror's fpoils, the monuments of ago* 
 
 " And all the vanities of lift's brief day, 
 
 " Oblivion's hurrying wing mail fweep away, 
 
 n The works by charity and mercy done, 
 
 " High o'er the wreck of time, mail live alone, 
 
 " Immortal as the heav'ns, and beauteous bloom 
 
 •' To other worlds, and realms beyond the tomb." 
 
 The poor, to whom Mr. Kyrle was the gene- 
 rous benefactor, the conflant friend, the kind 
 inftructor, fhall blefs him in fucceeding genera- 
 tions ; and pofterity fnall recognize in the cha- 
 racter of " the Man of Ro/s 9 " 9 the moil brilliant 
 V 2 example 
 
6$ ' A JOURNEY 
 
 example of untainted worth, which the frailty of 
 human nature is capable of affording. 
 
 Mr. Pope fays, 
 
 " But all our praifes, why fhould Lords engrofs? 
 
 " Rife, honed mufe! and fmg the Man of Rofs : 
 
 u Pleas'd Vaga echoes through her winding bounds, 
 
 u And rapid Severn hoarfe applaufe refounds. 
 
 a Who hung v 1 , ith woods yon mountains fultry brow ? 
 
 " From the dry rock, who bade the waters flow? 
 
 € < Not to the fkies in ufelefs columns toft, 
 
 " Or in proud falls magnificently loft ; 
 
 " But clear and artlefs, pouring through the plain 
 
 " Health to the fick, and folace to the fvvain. 
 
 €< Whofe caufeway parts the vale with fhady rows ? 
 
 " Whofe feats the weary traveller repofe ? 
 
 * { Who taught that heav'n directed fpire to rife : 
 
 *' The Man of Rofs, each lifping babe replies ! 
 
 " Behold the market place with poor o'erfpread, 
 
 " The Man of Rofs divides the weekly bread ! 
 
 " He feeds yon alms-houfe, neat, but void of ftate, 
 
 <« Where age and want fit fmiling at the gate : 
 
 " Him, portion'd maids, apprenticed orphans bleft, 
 
 " The young who labour, and the old who reft. 
 
 4< Is any fick ? the Man of Rofs relieves, 
 " Prefcribes, attends, the med'cine makes and gives. 
 ** Is there a variance ? enter but the door, 
 U Balk'd are the courts, and conceit is no more. 
 
 *' Defpairing quacks/ with curfes fled the place, 
 
 is And vile attorneys, now a ufelefs race." 
 
 6 Thrice happy man ! enabled to purfue 
 
 V* What all fo wi(h, but want the pow'r to do. 
 
 «Oh! 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 69 
 
 ' Oh ! fay what fums that generous hand fupply ? 
 * What mines, to fwell that boundlefs charity ? ' 
 w Of debts and taxes, wife, and children clear, 
 
 " This man pofTeft -five hundred pounds a year. 
 
 " Blufh grandeur, blufh! proud courts withdraw your blaze, 
 lc Ye little ftars ! hide your diminifhed rays." 
 
 And Goldfmith, 
 
 " Unfkilful he to fawn, or feek for pow'r, 1 
 
 " By doctrines fafhion'd to the varying hour; 
 
 " Far other aims his heart had learn'd to prize, 
 
 " More bent to raife the wretched, than to rife. 
 
 " His houfe was known to all the vagrant train, 
 
 " He chid their wand'rings, but reliev'd their pain. 
 
 " The long remember' d beggar was his gueft, 
 
 " Whofe beard defcending, fwept his aged breafl ; 
 
 " The rnin'd fpendthrift; now no longer proud, 
 
 " Claim'd kindred here, and had his claim allow'd. 
 
 " The broken foldier, kindly bade to flay, 
 
 •' Sate by his fire, and talk'd the night away ; 
 
 M Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of forrow done, 
 
 " Shoulder'd his crutch, and lhew'd how fields were won. \ 
 
 tc Pleas'd with his guefts, the good man learn'd to glow, 
 
 " And quite forgot their vices, in their woe. 
 
 w Carelefs their merits or their faults to fcan, 
 
 M His pity gave, e'er charity began. 
 
 " Thus to relieve the wretched was his pride, 
 " And ev'n his failings lean'd to virtue's fide : 
 " But in his duty, prompt at ev'ry call, 
 *' He watch'd and wept, he pray'd and felt for all. 
 " And as a bird each fond endearment tries, 
 " To tempt its new fledged offspring to the fkies, 
 " He tried each art, reprov'd each dull delay, 
 <* Allur'd to brighter worlds, and led the way." 
 
 F 3 The 
 
^O A JOURNEY 
 
 The courfe of the Wye may be traced for 
 fome miles ; and where it hides itfelf, either by 
 the bendings of its current, or among the woods 
 which decorate its banks, it is only to deceive the 
 eye for a moment, and that it may re-appear in, 
 perhaps, a different direction, or with a broader 
 ftream, among the meadows. 
 
 This rich and luxuriant valley is bounded on 
 the right by the hills of Shropjhire ; in front by 
 thofe of Radnor •, Brecon, and Monmouth j and, 
 on the left, by thofe of Qhucejier/hire, 
 
 Mr. Purchas conducted us through his brew- 
 ery, and mewed us vaft repofitories of wine \ ac- 
 companying thefe attentions with an air of fa 
 great good humour, and fuch a preffing invita- 
 tion to partake of refrefhment, that we took 
 leave of this hofpitable gentleman with regret. 
 
 We did not leave the neighbourhood, however, 
 without frequently doing honour to the contents, 
 of his immenfe cellar, which is very defervedly 
 celebrated throughout the whole country. 
 
 Wifhing to embrace this opportunity of feeing 
 the Duke of Norfolk's houfe at Ham, we were 
 dire&ed to a ferry, at which a boat is kept for 
 the purpofe of conducting paffengers oyer the 
 Wye, but the wind fruftrated all our efforts to, 
 
 make 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 7 1 
 
 make ourfelves heard by the boatman, and we 
 were therefore conftrained to return by the fame 
 road to Mordeford. 
 
 The church belonging to this village (lands 
 near the bank of the river Lug, and the eaft 
 end is decorated with a painting of a large 
 green dragon. 
 
 An ornament fo unufual, and fo feemingly 
 unconnected with the nature and defign of a 
 place of worfhip, naturally excited our curiofity ; 
 which, after fome enquiries, was gratified by the 
 following (lory. 
 
 At a remote period, very far beyond the me- 
 mory of man, and very obfeurely afcertained 
 by tradition, there lived in the woody fteep not 
 far from Mordeford, a monftrous ferpent, with 
 prodigious wings, which committed various and 
 alarming depredations among the cattle, and even 
 the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. The 
 monfter was wont to refort to a particular fpot, 
 for the purpofe of allaying his thirft, and this 
 was at the confluence of the Wye and the Lug. 
 Many and great were the rewards which the good 
 people of Mordeford offered to any one who 
 fhould deftroy the dragon ; but, it feems, that 
 no man was found of fufficient courage to en- 
 F 4 gage 
 
J2 A JOtTRNEY 
 
 gage in fo perilous an adventure. At length, a 
 malefactor, who had been condemned to die, 
 undertook to kill the ferpent, and relieve the 
 Mordefordians from their daily and nightly fears; 
 on condition of receiving his pardon, as the re" 
 ward of his value and prowefs. The condition 
 being accordingly granted, the hero concealed 
 himfeif in a barrel at the water's edge, and lay 
 in ambuih for his dreadful foe. The wiles of 
 the ferpent being thus overcome, when he came 
 to drink, as ufual, the contefl began, and laded 
 for a confiderable time, but at length terminated 
 fatally to both parties;— the monfter being (lain 
 outright, by fair fighting, and the man poifoned 
 by the dragon's breath. 
 
 This ftory is told with great ferioufnefs, and 
 confidently believed, in all its particulars, by 
 hundreds, and perhaps by thoufands of perfons, 
 whofe fathers and grandfathers have handed it 
 down to them, without ever attempting to divefl 
 it of the abfurdities which oppofe its credibility. 
 
 They further tell you that the figure on the 
 wall of the church reprefents the exa£t fize of the 
 dragon, which mufl have been,- at leaft, twelve 
 
 feet long. 
 
 Its 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 73 
 
 Its head is depi&ed of a very large Tize, with 
 a terrible afpect, a red mouth, and a forked 
 tongue. The wings are elevated and expanded, 
 and it is web footed. 
 
 We obferved to the perfons who related this 
 curious hiftory that it was extraordinary the na- 
 ture of the weapons which the man ufed for the 
 deftrudlion of the monfter ihould be unknown, 
 and that it was rather an impolitic contrivance 
 for the engagement to be left to the precarious 
 iiTue of fingle combat, when tht poffe commltaim 
 might have been eafily aflembled to fubdue ta 
 dreadful a peft. But traditionay legends of this 
 nature will not admit of much reafoning, nor 
 ftand the teft of minute inveftigation. 
 
 The ridiculous improbabilities with which they 
 are interwoven render it very difficult, and often 
 impomble, to obtain any knowledge of the real 
 fact on which they were originally founded. 
 
 There is no doubt that all long edablifhed cuf- 
 toms, and old legends, refer to fome real event, 
 however that event may be clouded with igno- 
 rance, or darkened by fuperftition ; and it is 
 poflible that there may have been a monftrous 
 variety of the ferpent fpecies among the thick 
 woods before mentioned, — but whether it was 
 
 ia 
 
74 A JOURNEY 
 
 in reality fo terrible, and in appearance fo unii* 
 fual, as it is reprefented, can not be afcertained 
 any more than the truth of the reft of the ftory 
 can be proved. 
 
 A trivial variation was made by a gentleman 
 of Hereford, in defer ibing the dragon of M or de- 
 ford, namely, that it was an amphibious animal, 
 left on the banks of the Lug, after a confider* 
 able flood : and indeed if it was really a fnake, and 
 of ihejtze Unfilled upon, it might well have been 
 conceived fufficiently frightful without the forked 
 tongue, webbed feet, and expanfive wings, 
 with which terror and credulity have aggravated 
 the picture. 
 
 The memorial of another dragon is prefented 
 in the Palatinate of Durham ; the reprefentative 
 of Sir Edward Blacken being obliged to render 
 fervice to the bilhop, at his firft coming into the 
 county, by prefenting to his lordmip a faulchion 
 with which the anceftor of that family flew cc a 
 < c monftrous reptile, a dragon, a worm, or a fly* 
 " ing ferpent $" in memory of which ad, the 
 faulchion thus prefented fecures the poffeflion of 
 a large eftate held by this remarkable tenure, 
 
 Nor is this the only legend of a fimilar kind ; 
 for about the year 1614, a difcourfe was pub- 
 limed 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. J$ 
 
 limed, relating to C( a ftrange monftrous ferpent 
 " or dragon (then) living in a wood, called St. 
 " Leonard's Foreft, near HorJJjam, in Sitflex" 
 which was defer ibed to have been more than nine 
 feet long, with balls at its fides, like foot-balls, 
 which it was fuppofed would turn to wings. 
 Something of this nature is alfo mentioned as 
 having been feen on Leaden Heath, in Effex. 
 But the bed authenticated tale of this kind, which 
 I have happened to meet with, is preferved by 
 Sir Robert Atkyns, and copied in Rudder's Hif- 
 tory of Gloucefterjhire, in the following words : 
 
 " In the parifli of Deerhurft, near Teivkef. 
 ** bury, a ferpent of a prodigious bignefs was a 
 * great grievance to all the country, by poifoning 
 " the inhabitants, and killing their cattle. The 
 " inhabitants petitioned the king, and a procla- 
 " mation was iffued out, that whofoever mould 
 " kill the ferpent, mould enjoy an eftate in the 
 <c parifh, which then belonged to the crown. 
 cc One John Smith, a labourer, engaged in the 
 " enterprize. He put a quantity of milk in a 
 " place to which the ferpent reforted, who 
 " g or g e d tne whole, agreeable to expectation, 
 ? c and lay down to ileep in the fun, with his 
 V fcales ruffled up. Seeing him in that fituation, 
 
 Smith 
 
j6 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Smith advanced, and ftriking between the 
 * 6 fcales with his axe, took off his head. The 
 " Smiths enjoyed the eftate when Sir Robert At- 
 ^ kyns compiled this account, and Mr. Lane, 
 * c who married a widow of that family, had then 
 " the axe in his pofleffion." 
 
 CrolTed the Lug by a long and narrow bridge, 
 under which that river flows with great rapidity. 
 The meadows on each fide are very flat, and of- 
 ten under water, as is alfo the road, for more 
 than two miles. This has occafioned a vaft num- 
 ber of graduated pods, four feet high, to be 
 placed by the way-fide, which ferve at once to 
 inform the curious of the depth of the water in 
 flood-time, and to caution the timid againfl the 
 dangers they are likely to meet with. 
 
 About half a mile from Hereford is a public- 
 houfe, with a fign fo lingular in its appearance, ! 
 that it would be difficult to underftand how it 
 could be denominated, if an infcription had not 
 been affixed, fignifying that " this is the real 
 $' blade bone of a whale," 
 
 We now palled the navigation of the Wye, and 
 ■ afcending a gentle eminence approached the en- 
 trance of the city of Hereford* 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 7? 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Hereford. — Cathedral — Monuments of the old Prelates. — Sate 
 of the Cajlk. 
 
 The approach to Hereford does not infpire a 
 traveller with any very high idea of its confe- 
 quence, cleanlinefs, or refpectability ; the en- 
 trance being through a ftreet of wretched and 
 half-falling huts, and between a double row of 
 dunghills placed at their doors. As the road, 
 though not very good, was far from being miry, 
 I am {till at a lofs to conceive by what means fuch 
 immenfe quantities of mud, dirt, and manure can 
 be collected : they, however, exhibit a mod An- 
 gularly difgufting appearance, and are a difgrace 
 to the police of the town. 
 
 We pafled the Infirmary, which is a fmall neat 
 building, on the left ; a fchool, and an alms- 
 houfe. 
 
 Hereford is commodioufly paved, and in fome 
 parts well built : there are, however, many old 
 houfes in a ftate of mouldering decay. 
 
 5 The 
 
78 A JOURNEY 
 
 The two parifh churches have lofty fpifes* 
 which have a good effect ; but the lofs of the 
 fpire of the Cathedral is a confiderable difadvan* 
 tage in the perfpe&ive, and renders that building 
 very oppreflive and heavy. 
 
 The Cathedral has been recently put in com- 
 plete repair, and the weft end rebuilt : the mo- 
 dern decorations are all in a chafte ftyle of neat- 
 nefs and fimplicity, which well agrees with the 
 original tafle of the building. 
 
 This church is, perhaps, the mod complete 
 fpecimen of Saxon architecture in the kingdom, 
 and the effecl produced in the mind, on viewing 
 fuch a combination of folidity, neatnefs, and 
 grandeur, is difficult to be defcribed. 
 
 The nave is fupported by maflive pillars, and 
 there is nothing fine nor tawdry ; no ufelefs paint- 
 ing, no unbecoming glare of colouring about the 
 church, to offend the eye. * 
 
 The choir is fmall, but accurately neat ; and 
 although, if the flails and pulpit had been of 
 any other colour than white, a better effect would 
 have been produced; yet there are fo many 
 things to praife and to admire, that this error 
 may be overlooked. 
 
 5 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 79 
 
 The bilhop's throne, which, as ufual, termi- 
 nates the flails at the eaft end of the fouth fide, 
 is oppofite the pulpit, which is an ugly looking 
 thing, like a tub, with an inverted punch bowl 
 fufpended over it, by way of founding board. 
 
 An elegant organ (lands over the entrance to 
 the choir. 
 
 Near the fouth wall of the church lies the effi- 
 gy, in alabafter, of Sir Richard Pembrige, or 
 Pembrigge, who was the fifty -third knight of the 
 mod noble order of the garter ; and died in 1375. 
 
 The right leg of the figure having been broken 
 off, its place is fuppliedwith one of wood, on which 
 the graver has abfurdly placed a fecond garter, 
 to make it correfpond with the left. 
 
 The fide aifles are full of monuments of the an- 
 cient prelates, whofe figures are placed in niches 
 under a low arch, infcribed with their names, 
 and diflinguifhed by coats of arms, and the date 
 of the year in which they died. 
 
 " iDoimnu* 3Ro6ettu0 ht llctBarkiga 1095. 
 " Domimtg 45o&frit)u£ tit Clpbz 1119. 
 " iDommug CDiiIiehmig De Wlm 1119. 
 " 2Dominu0 IRchmtsg fce £5*time 1148. 
 u JDomtmig IRobertug tie tpaltm 1167. 
 
Bo A JOURNEY 
 
 " Dumhutg Stobcrti!* iFfdiot n36. 
 " JDomimig l9ug.& tie Spapenore 1219, 
 " IDmtttttitg %ju$&Mffi$ &mltm\ 1369. 
 <c JD&mimig Carols HBootfi 1539. 
 
 Thefe, and many other bifhops of Hereford are 
 buried here : and Dean Tytler, under a hand - 
 fome monument, in the fouth tranfept. 
 
 There is a very old tomb with two painted 
 figures ; but among all the funeral relics, a mo ft 
 exquifitely fimfhed monument in memory of the 
 Doddington family, deferves particular notice. 
 
 " On the marble tomb, 
 
 " The well-dlffembled mourner {looping {lands, 
 * c For ever filent. and for ever fad !" 
 
 It is faid, that Robert de Lothdringa, before- 
 mentioned, was the founder of the prefent 
 church, which, according to this account, mud 
 have been erected in the days of William Rufus, 
 unlefs the dates affixed to the monuments relate 
 to the confecration, inllead of the deceafe of the 
 bifhops ; and then it might be, as fome authors 
 aifert, in the reign of Henry the firru It has, 
 however, undergone many alterations, and fuf- 
 
 fered 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 8 1 
 
 fered confiderably from the incurfions of the 
 Welch. 
 
 The cathedral is enclofed by refpeclable, ra- 
 ther than elegant buildings. The bifhop's palace 
 adjoins the cloifters on the fouth-wefl fide ; and 
 not far from it is a building ftill called " the 
 " College," where fome of the prebendaries re- 
 fide. 
 
 In the north-weft part of the city, almoft con- 
 tiguous to the road leading to LeomlnJler y Hands 
 the prifon, a large building, lately erected : and 
 near it is an hofpital for poor and infirm perfons, 
 which was founded by Sir Thomas Coningsby, on 
 the fcite of a monaftery of Black Friars, part of 
 whofe ruins are ftill remaining ; particularly an 
 elegant ftone pulpit, or crofs, pi&urefquely fur- 
 rounded with fhrubs. 
 
 It feems to have been the cuftom to deliver 
 fermons from an open pulpit, in the fummer, to 
 the monks, who ranged themfelves under the 
 cloifters, which enclofed the court where the 
 pulpit flood. 
 
 Another fpecimen of the fame fort, is to be 
 feen at Shrew/bury, called St. Wine/red's pulpit* 
 
 The market houfe at Hereford is an old build- 
 ing, fupported by pillars, in which the affizes are 
 G held : 
 
$2 A JOURNEY 
 
 held: and as the judge's feat is clofe to the 
 window at the fouth end, he is feen by every 
 perfon who pafles along the ftreet, fo that 
 as Mr. Hutchinfon obferves, refpectir/g the Hall 
 at Appleby, in Weftmor -eland r , the magiftrates 
 may be properly faid to adminifter juftice in the 
 forum. 
 
 All-Saints church, at the end of Broad ftreer, 
 is decorated with a high fpire, but contains 
 nothing very worthy of notice, excepting the pul- 
 pit, which is carved all over, and has the fol- 
 lowing infcription on the founding board ; 
 
 €€ HOW BLESSED ARE THE FEET OF THEM THAT 
 • " BRING GLAD TIDINGS OF PEACE. Roy J" 
 
 Which being put up in an age fo fruitful in pun 
 and quibble as the reign of King James, may 
 afford matter of furprife that it was not infcribed 
 on the footfiooL 
 
 Hereford is not a populous town ; there is no 
 manufactory yet eftablimed here; the inhabi- 
 tants are confequently poor and idle : they are 
 faid to be proud too ; and it is certain, that 
 pride often accompanies idlenefs and cathedral 
 churches, 
 
 Eaftward 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 8$ 
 
 Eaftward of the city is a public walk, called 
 " Cattle Green," where formerly flood a ftrong 
 fortification, which was not only tenable, but 
 important, in the time of Cromwell. 
 
 No veflige of the cattle remains, befides afmall 
 building at the fouth-weft corner, which is fal- 
 ling into ruin. 
 
 Near it, a kind of fummer pavillion has been 
 erected for the accommodation of thofe who fre- 
 quent the bowling-green, which occupies the cen- 
 tre of the field, now changed to a place of eafe 
 and recreation, from a fcene of warfare, carnage, 
 and confufion. 
 
 A terrace walk is conducted round the whole, 
 which commands a varied and agreeable view of 
 a richly-wooded valley, and the meanders of the 
 charming Wye y which paiTes clofe to it on the 
 fouth. 
 
 At the angle of the terrace, which overlooks 
 the courfe of the river, are placed five pieces of 
 cannon, one of them of confiderable calibre, a 
 fix and thirty pounder, I believe; but they are, 
 at prefent, perfectly harmlefs, having all been 
 difmounted, and fixed horizontally in the 
 ground. 
 
 G2 On 
 
84 A JOURNEY 
 
 On the right is an old bridge over the Wye ; 
 and, contrary to the ufual mode of building, 
 the central arch is the fmalleft ; but, perhaps 
 modern reparations may have occasioned it to 
 be fo. 
 
 1 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 85 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 tVhite-Crofs. — Foxley.— Lady-lift. — Value of Cyder. — Lyons* 
 Hall. — Scenery on approaching the Principality. — Eywood.— 
 Reception at Prejleign» 
 
 Leaving Hereford by a fine broad road, which 
 runs in a direct line, towards Hay, in Breck- 
 nockjhire, we obferved, that the appearance of 
 the orchards, hitherto fo abundantly fcattered on 
 all fides, began to be lefs frequent: but the 
 country is every where cultivated > and the diftant 
 hills are covered with wood, 
 
 A mile from Hereford is White-Croft the bafis 
 of a ftone column, erected on feven fteps, and 
 ornamented with fhields charged with coat ar- 
 mour. This is faid to be the fpot on which ex- 
 changes were made between the inhabitants of 
 Hereford and the neighbouring villages, at a time 
 when the plague ranged in the city, and prevented 
 the markets from being held there. 
 
 The crofs was fet up by Charlton, bifliop of 
 Hereford, about the year 1345. 
 
 &3 Turning 
 
86 A JOURNEY 
 
 Turning to the right, we foon approached thofe 
 fine bold hills, which we had contemplated with 
 fo much pleafure from Fownhope, as the boun- 
 daries of the weftern profpecl:. 
 
 The road winds to the left, into a fmall valley, 
 which terminates with an amphitheatre of wood, 
 and a village church. 
 
 Rode through two fmall villages, in the firfl 
 of which is an ancient crofs, with a fun-dial on 
 the top. 
 
 Fox ley is a handfome houfe, furrounded by 
 pleafant gardens, well planted ; fituated amidft 
 a variety of delightful fcenery : the neighbouring 
 eminences being clothed with wood, and the fields 
 covered with verdure. 
 
 Lady -lift ^ a beautiful eminence not far diftant, 
 is an agreeable object, for feveral miles. It is a 
 lofty promontory, wrapped to its fummit in a 
 mantle of wood, and crowned with a tuft of fir 
 trees. 
 
 The farther we travelled, the fewer orchards 
 were to be feen ; and the rural fimplicity of the 
 inhabitants was more and more amufing. Here, 
 too, the dialed and pronunciation of the peafan- 
 try informed us, that we approached the princi- 
 pality of Wales* 
 
 We 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 87 
 
 We remarked, that the bloated countenances 
 of the farmers, fhewed how well they knew the 
 virtues of their pippin juice ; and that they do 
 not fufFer all of it to be carried out of their own 
 country. 
 
 I made it a rule to drink nothing but cyder 
 during this part of our journey, which I found 
 was nst taken at all amifs ; for the Hereford/hire 
 men think very highly of the produces of their 
 own county: — indeed, who does not? 
 
 One day, happening to obferve* that the 
 Welch brewed excellent ale, and, in general, ap- 
 peared fond of it : "yes,"faid a Hereford/hire far- 
 mer, " and fo they ought ; for they have nothing 
 " elfe : I mean neither cyder nor perry" 
 
 The liquors are indeed moft excellent, and 
 Phillips has truly obferved* 
 
 " To the utmofl bounds of this 
 " Wide univerfe, Silurian cyder borne, 
 «' Shall pleafe all tafles, and triumph o'er the vine." 
 
 The road to Prejleign affords, in many places, 
 
 very intending profpefts. The black mountains 
 
 ftretch out their dreary ridge on the left, and lefs 
 
 rugged, though boldly-rifing eminences bound 
 
 G4 the 
 
8S A JOURNEY 
 
 the weftern horizon, in a manner at once grand 
 and beautiful. 
 
 Some of thefe hills are covered with trees, 
 others fmooth with verdure ; but none exhibit 
 thajt difmal fterility, which almoil always occa- 
 fions penlive and melancholy ideas. The ap- 
 pearance of trees and herbage is always intereft- 
 ing, although it is not to be fuppofed, that every 
 fuperficial obferver regards them with the philo- 
 fophic eye of Sir John Pringle. " From the oak 
 *? of the foreft, to the grafs of the field, every 
 " individual plant is ferviceable to mankind ; if 
 " not always diftinguifhed by fome private vir- 
 iC tue, yet making a part of the whole, which 
 " cleanfes and purifies our atrnofphere. In this 
 " the fragrant rofe, and deadly nightfhade co-ope- 
 " rate : nor is the herbage, nor the woods, flou- 
 K rifhing in the moil remote and unpeopled 
 " regions, unprofitable to us, nor we to them j 
 " confidering how conftantly the winds convey 
 Eg to them a vitiated air, for our relief, and their 
 " nouriihment." 
 
 After fome time we reached the village of Ly* 
 
 on* s Hall ^ in which are the fmall remains of an 
 
 ancient caftle, fituated. on an eminence clofe to 
 
 the church. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 89 
 
 The road ufualiy travelled from Hereford to 
 Prefteign, paifes through the town of Kyneton or 
 Kington ; but in order to fhorten our journey* 
 •we turned to the right, by direction of the vil- 
 lagers at Lyon's Half, and defcended through 
 clofe and miry lanes for two miles, into a coun- 
 try full of fprings and marfhy ground. 
 
 This road, after many turnings, brought us 
 to an avenue, which leads to Eywood, the feat 
 of the Earl of Oxford and Earl Mortimer. We 
 afterwards paffed the extenfive encampment, 
 called Wabley, or Weobley ditches, and ( alfo £j- 
 ivood warren, fituated on a commanding emi- 
 nence, and entered the principality, of which 
 Prejleign is the frontier town, and, indeed, by 
 the Welch fcarcely admitted to belong to it, al- 
 though it is the county town of Radnor/hire. 
 
 Prefieign is a neat little place, ftanding in a 
 valley, wafhed by a rapid and clear fcream, which 
 could not but attract my notice, as feemingly 
 characteristic of the difpofition of the people into 
 whofe territory we were entering. 
 
 The Welch, bold ; free, quick, and ardent, are 
 a brave, generous, and hofpitable people : prone 
 to anger ; but though vehement in their animo- 
 fities, neither malicious nor implacable. 
 
 The 
 
gc* a jotfRNfcy 
 
 The commonalty dill preferve the chara&er of 
 our Britijh anceftors, " robuft and hardy ; their 
 " nerves flrung by the energy of toil, and their 
 * c blood purified by fimplicity of diet ;" and, as 
 Diodorus Siculus obferved, " They are fimple in 
 cc their manners and equally void of cunning and 
 *• wickednefs.'* 
 
 The weather, for the month of April, was un- 
 ufually cold ; and the lowering clouds and hol- 
 low wind, which refembled the difmal decline of 
 the year, gave me no very fair profpect of feeing 
 this part of the country to advantage : but ftiil 
 I entered upon it with a favourable opinion, 
 which arofe from the fpecimen we received from 
 the firft Cambrian we faw, of that generous hof- 
 pitality by which it has been for ages, and flill 
 continues to be, fo honourably diftinguifhed. 
 
 Arrived at Prejieign ; the civil face of our land- 
 lady, at the Radnor/hire Arms, and the attentions 
 which we met with, occasioned us to draw compa- 
 rifons between the civilities we experienced here, 
 and the behaviour of the inn-keepers in England* 
 highly difadvantageous to our own country-men. 
 
 My arrival was foon announced to the family 
 of an old and valuable acquaintance, from whom 
 we received the politeft invitation to his houfe I 
 and were received therein the moft flattering and 
 hofpitable manner. 
 
JKTO SOUTH WALES. 9 1 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Prejleign . — Church. — Anecdote. — Warden- WaVus. — Weobly 
 Camp. — ProfpeBs. — Emigration of the Welch Peafantry* 
 
 A small bridge over the river Lug, clofe to 
 the town of Prejleign, conne&s the counties of 
 Hereford and Radnor, and joins the kingdom of 
 England to the dominion of Wales. 
 
 About a mile from this bridge is a large old 
 manfion, built on an elevated bank, and called 
 Stapleton Caftle ; which commands a fine view 
 of the vale of Radnor, and the hills that bound 
 it, which are either feathered with wood, or dot- 
 ted with fheep. 
 
 The parifh church of Prejleign contains a few 
 monuments and tablets infcribed with the names 
 of Owen, Price, and Davies : and there is an al- 
 tar-piece of tapeftry, extremely well wrought, 
 and in high prefervation, reprefenting ChriJPs 
 triumphal entry into Jerufalem. Above it, is in- 
 fcribed, 
 
 " R. OWEN DE BRAMTON PARVA, IN HAC PAROCHIA. 
 " A.D. 1737." 
 
 The 
 
92 A JOURNEY 
 
 The walls of this edifice are embellifhed with 
 feveral texts of fcripture ; and with the figures of 
 Mofes and Aaron, and of Time and Death. 
 
 Time has his fcythe on his moulder, and ba- 
 lances an hour glafs on his head. Death is re- 
 prefented by a fkeleton (landing on a coffin, with 
 a fpade in his hand. 
 
 Thefe figures are tolerably well executed, par- 
 ticularly that of Time, who feems to fuftain the 
 hour-glafs with fome difficulty, as if afraid of let- 
 ting it fall. 
 
 After the Reformation, when the Rood-loft 
 was taken down, and images were removed from 
 churches, fome paffages from fcripture began to 
 be infcribed on the walls ; and thefe have been 
 from time to time renewed, in fome few churches: 
 but wherever they do remain, the paffages firft 
 felecled are flill retained, without alteration. 
 
 The exterior of the church has nothing about 
 it very ancient, very curious, or very attractive. 
 
 We walked in the church-yard, where, in 
 their unadorned turfy bed, 
 
 " The rude forefathers of the hamlet fleep :" 
 
 Among them lies poor Tom Rogers, a fifer in 
 the Radnor/hire militia, who was found dead in 
 the fnow laft winter. 
 
 8 Icaft 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 93 
 
 I caft a farewell look on his grave, remem* 
 bered the lively notes of his fife, contrafted with 
 the weather-beaten afpeft of the old foldier j and 
 gave him a figh of regret. 
 
 The laft time I faw poor To?n, he was engaged 
 in a mufical competition with the fifers of feveral 
 other regiments, in which he gained the prize : 
 for, as a fifer, he was unrivalled. May Heaven 
 be the prize he now enjoys,— the reward of his 
 honed fidelity. 
 
 There was fomething lingular in this man's 
 fate. 
 
 The poor fellow, after more than fifty years 
 fpent in the fervice, had obtained his difcharge, 
 with the benefit of a Chelfea penfion : he was 
 journeying toward his native hills, and within 
 fight of the town of Prefteign, not half a mile 
 from his home ; he perifhed in the fnow ! 
 
 The morning had feen him, blyth as the lark 
 of fummer ; it was greeted with the melody of 
 his pipe :— the evening clofed upon him, a bleak 
 ^nd ftiffened corpfe. 
 
 ■• In vain for him th* officious wife prepares 
 " The fire bright blazing, and the veftment warm j 
 " In vain his little children, peeping out 
 f ' Into the mingling ftorm 3 demand their fire, 
 
 «' With 
 
94 A JOURNEY 
 
 ft With tears of artlefs innocence. Alas ! 
 
 r< Nor wife, nor children more, mall he behold,* 
 
 *' Nor friends nor facred home. On ev'ry nerve 
 
 <; The deadly winter feizes ; fhuts up fenfe ; 
 
 ** And o'er his inmoft vitals creeping cold, 
 
 •* Lays him along the fnows, a ftiffen'd corfe, 
 
 * l Stretch'd out, and bleaching in the northern olaA.'* 
 
 Poor Tom had once fcraped together a few 
 fhillings — the ceconomy of a foldier ! and in or- 
 der to do fo, had nearly ftarved himfelf : he fell 
 fick, his life was defpaired of: — the furgeon told 
 
 D s, the mofl: generous hearted officer in the 
 
 fervice, "poor Tom Rogers is dying :" — the nurfe 
 
 went further j " he is dead," faid fhe. D s 
 
 gave a laft glance at the honeft fifer, and thought 
 it poffible that the thread of life might yet be 
 fpliced ; he thought that a latent fpark might 
 yet exift, and knowing, that if he was dead, the 
 remedy he was about to try, could do no mif- 
 chief, forced fome brandy down his throat. He 
 recovered, and lived to thank his benefactor. 
 « c God blefs your honour," faid he " and I 
 <c hope if ever I die again, it will be by your ho- 
 " nour's fide, and that you will not let me 
 * c be buried without trying another drop of 
 «* brandy" 
 
 Three 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 95 
 
 Three years rolled away ; the generous D— s 
 left the regiment, went to refide at Pre/leign, and 
 was, accidentally, one of the fir ft fpeclators of 
 the poor man's fate : but life was now complete- 
 ly extinguifhed, and every effort to recover him 
 was ineffeclual. 
 
 Farewell honeft foldier 1 may the green turf 
 lie lightly on thy head ! 
 
 On the weft fide of the town is a beautiful lh> 
 tie eminence (formerly the fcite of a caftle) called 
 Warden Walks, which has been prefented to the 
 inhabitants by Lord Oxford. It commands va- 
 rious and extenfive profpe&s of the neighbouring 
 country,, and is well laid out and planted. 
 
 A winding gravel walk conducted us to the 
 fummit, on which is a bowling-green : and it 
 feems to have been intended to ere& a fort of pa- 
 villion here, for the reception of the company ; 
 but the building remains unfinifhed. 
 
 The courfe of the Lug is feen at the foot of the 
 mount ; and fome of the roads leading to Pref- 
 telgn wind among the hills, as if formed on pur- 
 pofe to gratify the eye from hence. 
 
 The more we faw of this part of the country, 
 the more we were pleafed with it, and its inha- 
 bitants : and every day gave us frefh proofs of 
 
 the 
 
g6 A JOURNEY 
 
 the generofity of their difpofitions, and the un- 
 affected politenefs of which we had fo often 
 heard, 
 
 As I ftrolled through the fields near Prefteign, 
 snd climbed the neighbouring hills in fearch of 
 profpects, it frequently happened to me, to meet 
 with fome ruiiic wanderers, who were either fol- 
 lowing their kine, tending their flocks, or col- 
 lecting dry flicks to feed their evening fires ; and 
 this gave me abundant opportunities of remarks 
 mg the difference between the fimple untainted 
 manners of the Welch peafantry, and the imper- 
 tinence of large towns. Here every body is un- 
 affectedly civil ; and, what is more, difintereft- 
 edly fo : no naked clamorous children funning 
 in your way, and vociferating for halfpence till 
 they deafen you with importunity. 
 
 In one of my walks, a turnpike gate, through 
 which I was to pafs, happening to be fhut ; while 
 I was lifting up the latch which fattened it, a neat 
 old woman, who collects the toll, came out, 
 with many curtefies and apologies, that fhe did 
 not fee me, or I fhould not have had the trouble 
 to open the gate myfelf. This anecdote may ap- 
 pear trivial ; but where can it be matched in the 
 counties which call themfelves polifhed ? If this 
 
 was 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 97 
 
 Was not politenefs, tell me, ye difciples of Chef* 
 ierfield, what is ? 
 
 We made an excurfion to vifit Weobley en- 
 campment ; and an unufually fine morning gave 
 us ah opportunity of feeing it to great advantage- 
 It is placed on the fummit of a proud emi- 
 nence, which overtops the neighbouring coun- 
 try, and frowns defiance at the huge ridges, 
 which every where raife themfelves around it. 
 
 Even if the antiquity of this camp did not re- 
 commend it to the notice of the curious^ the 
 delightful profpect which it commands would 
 render it an object well worthy of attention to the 
 contemplative traveller* 
 
 To the fouth-eaft, the eye ftretches as far as 
 May Hill, in Glouceflerfhire : and the city of He- 
 reford is only hidden by the intervention of a 
 range of hills, which terminates in the remark- 
 able promontory of Lady -lift before mentioned. 
 Skerrit, in Monmouthjhire> and the Black Moun- 
 tains^ whofe fummics were wrapped in fnovv, en- 
 clofe the profpec~l on the fouth ; and the Rod* 
 norjhire hills, in a vaft variety of fhapes, on the 
 weft and north-weft, are objects highly (hiking 
 and pidurefque. 
 
 H Robin 
 
$S A JOURNEY 
 
 Robin Hood's Butts, a little detached eminence, 
 {lands in the midft of a beautiful plain, called 
 Tembridge bottom. The Earl of Oxford's feat, 
 at Eywood, is feen in the valley below, fheltered 
 and embofomed among rich woods and planta- 
 tions; and on the north, the town of Prefteign, 
 with the villas at Broad-heath and Stapleton^ feems 
 lying at the foot of this ftupendous height. 
 
 A great hill near Llanidloes, which I at firft 
 fufpected to be the top of Plinlimmon, peeps over 
 the fhoulders of fome intervening mountains ; 
 and a beautiful irregularity of ground brings the 
 eye to an opening in the north-eaft, which af- 
 fords a glimpfe of Ridgley park, in StaffordJhire 9 
 at a great diflance. 
 
 Having taken a fliort furvey of the country 
 around it, the camp itfelf next claimed our at- 
 tention. 
 
 The form is irregularly oval, the north fide 
 being almoft ftraight. The entrance was origi- 
 nally from the fouth ; but feveral breaches have 
 been made in the works at different times. 
 
 From the entrance to the north-weft fide, there 
 are four ditches, as there are likewife from the 
 fame entrance to the fouth-eaft angle, which oc- 
 cupies the higheft ground of the hill : — from 
 
 thence 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 99 
 
 thence to the north-eaft angle are five ditches, 
 with confiderable fpaces of ground between them. 
 
 The north fide being inaccefTible, on account 
 of the almoft perpendicular declivity of the 
 ground, has only one vallum which runs in a 
 direct line along the brow of the hill. 
 
 A fort of refervoir ftill exifts, in which there 
 is a fupply of water, ufually fourteen or fifteen 
 feet deep ; but always in confiderable quantity, 
 even in the greateft drought. 
 
 The area of the camp has been turned up by 
 the plough ; but it is now like the reft of the 
 hill, a rabbit warren. 
 
 An ancient warrener, who, with his fon, con- 
 dueled me round the camp, appeared to be a 
 a very fenfible and intelligent man. 
 
 He informed me, that about thirty years ago, 
 he was in pofTefTion of an old book, entitled 
 " Lyte's Light of Britain ;" which, among a va- 
 riety of ancient hiftorical minutes, contained a 
 particular account of this encampment ; but that 
 by the defire of the late Earl of Oxford, he had 
 lent this book to a neighbouring gentleman, who 
 never returned it. 
 
 Hearne, the celebrated antiquary, has men- 
 tioned this author, whofe works above alluded to, 
 H 2 confided 
 
J CO A JOURNEY 
 
 confided of a fummary of Englifh hiftory en* 
 graved ; but the book is now, I believe, ex- 
 tremely fcarce ; as I have never yet been able to 
 obtain a fight of it. 
 
 The warrener faid, that he well remembered 
 thefe lines were related to have been thrown up 
 by the Romans, foon after the commencement of 
 the Chriflian sera ; and that Caraclacus had oc- 
 cupied them with a very formidable train. 
 
 Three filver coins were dug up here fome 
 years fmce, and prefented to the Countefs Dow- 
 ager of Oxford : — a bell-metal pot was alfo disco- 
 vered at the eaftern eminence, early in this cen- 
 tury, which the man very rationally fuggefted 3 
 might have been one of the veffels ufed for hold- 
 ing pitch, to be fired by way of beacon, in cafe 
 of alarm. 
 
 This method of giving notice of the approach 
 of an enemy, appears to have been introduced 
 about the reign of Edward the third. Before 
 that period, a fire of wood being commonly ufed 
 on fuch occafions. The lighting of beacons, in 
 fome fhape, feems to be coeval with the art of 
 war, and the organization of fociety : it was at 
 leaft become a common practice in the days of 
 
 the 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. IOI 
 
 the prophets, in whofe writings it is frequently 
 alluded to. 
 
 A coin of Henry the eighth was alfo picked up 
 hsre, conjectured to have been dropped in the 
 civil war, by fome of Oliver Cromwell's foldiers, 
 who pofieffed themfrlves of this eminence for a 
 fliort time. 
 
 The warren, which is four miles round, and 
 walled in ; and the contiguous eftate, are the 
 property of the Earl of Oxford, 
 
 Having defcended from the hill, and regained 
 the turnpike road, we purfued a track which con- 
 dueled us to the little village of Najh* where we 
 pafifed a deep and furious ftream ; and afterwards 
 returned to Prefteign^ through a romantic valley, 
 fhaded by a woody fleep. 
 
 In the courfe of our morning's ride, we met 
 with a little horde of Welch-men^ who, with 
 their wives and children, and all that they had, 
 were quitting their native retirement, the peace- 
 ful retreat of innocence and penury, and jour- 
 neying towards Deptford, to procure employ- 
 ment in the dock-yard, 
 
 Thefe poor people, who had lived in Cardi* 
 
 diganfhire, till they could no longer fupport 
 
 themfelves, exhibited a picture of induftry and 
 
 H 3 patience, 
 
102 A JOURNEY 
 
 patience, which could not fail to excite our ad-» 
 miration and pity. 
 
 It augurs no good, however, when induftry 
 is put to its laft efforts — when patience is drawn 
 out, till it is nearly exhaufted^— when the honeft 
 cottager is forced from his native foil for bread ! 
 
 *« 111 fares the land, to haftening ills a prey, 
 
 *' When wealth accumulates, and men decay ; 
 
 " Princes and peers may fiounfh or may fade, 
 
 *' A breath can make them, as a breath has made ; 
 
 «' But a bold peafantry, a nation's pride, 
 
 ** When once deftroy'd, can never be fupplied." 
 
 It is not at all uncommon for the Welch pea- 
 fantry to emigrate to the neighbouring counties, 
 or even to proceed as far as the metropolis, in 
 fearch of employment, in gardening and hufban* 
 dry, early in the fpring ; but they afterwards re- 
 turn with the little earnings of their labour, to 
 their expectant families, whofe fubfiftence does 
 not altogether depend on this precarious aid ; for 
 the women, whom they leave at home, are ex* 
 tremely induftrious ; and even the children are 
 early enured to laborious exertions. 
 
 But the party of which I have been fpeaking 3 
 liad for ever bade adieu to 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 
 
 •* The happy hills, the pleafmg fhade, and fields belov'd 
 
 in vain," 
 
 which had been the fcene of their former enjoy- 
 ments. 
 
 Chill penury, with its attendant train of hor- 
 rors, at laft prevailed ; and hard, indeed, mud 
 have been the fufferings of thefe unhappy people, 
 which could drive them for ever from their 
 homes, and tear in funder thofe clofely connect- 
 ing bonds, which tied t em to their ancient ha* 
 bitatio.ns, and to the fepulchres qX their fathers ! 
 
 H 4 
 
A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Views, — New Radnor, — T^he Cajlle, — Remarkable Cafcade,—* 
 Mountainous Country. — LI ndegles Wells, — Pennylont.—* 
 Rhyader-gowy, — Red Lion Inn. 
 
 The road to New Radnor pafles clofe to the 
 Warden Walks in going out of Pre/letgn, and, 
 with a winding tract, afcends a fteep hill, from 
 whofe fummit is a wild but pleafmg profped of 
 unequal ground, with here and there a cottage, 
 romantically fituated on the fide of the deep, 
 or buried in the hollow of the irriguous valley, 
 
 " Rude hills compofe the fide-long- fcene, 
 " With crpfts and cottages between." 
 
 Defcending this hill, and climbing another, fe- 
 veral fmall villages and farms appear fcattered 
 among the fields ; and having pafTed a turnpike* 
 houfe, the road winds to the left, fheltered by a 
 range of lofty eminences, which fcreened i us 
 from the north wind that blew with great vio- 
 lence. 
 
 On the fouth is a fine valley, and beyond it 
 the eye wanders over a number of bold hills, 
 
 the 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 05 
 
 the profpecl being bounded by the awful brow 
 of the Black Mountains. 
 
 The church of Old Radnor (lands on the very 
 edge of this valley, and we pafled Mr. Lewis's 
 houfe, in a low fituation, furrounded with plan- 
 tations of fir and poplar. 
 
 A cake of mow ftill remained {April 29th) 
 on the fide of a hill clofe to the road, and not . 
 far from it we obferved the fpot which was for- 
 merly ufed for lighting a beacon. 
 
 The defcent into New Radnor is very fteep, 
 and fo fudden that we arrived at the town without 
 having perceived the fmalleft indications of ap- 
 proaching it. 
 
 At the entrance is a lofty eminence, on which 
 the caftle formerly flood, but of which only a 
 fmall fragment of the fouth wall is remaining. 
 
 About fourteen years ago, when the turnpike 
 road was made, fome workmen employed to dig 
 for flones among the rubbifh of the foundations, 
 difcovered feveral cannon balls, and the heads of 
 two pr three battle axes. The balls feemed to 
 have belonged to fmall field pieces, — one only 
 was of larger fize, a twenty-four pounder, and 
 this was found flicking in a wall. 
 
 The building was demolifhed by the parlia- 
 mentary forces, in the civil wars. 
 
 The 
 
Io6 A JOURNEY 
 
 The church ftands juft below the fcite of the 
 caftle, but contains nothing remarkable: and 5 
 in fhort, the borough itfelf, with all its parlia- 
 mentary privileges and municipal honours, is one 
 of the mod wretched and defolate places which 
 can be imagined. 
 
 It was not without great difficulty that we 
 could procure a flight breakfaft, or even pro* 
 vender for our horfes ; but when they had been 
 obtained, we were made to pay for them like 
 Englifhmen. 
 
 After leaving Radnor, we obferved a farm- 
 houfe on the right, at which we had been told to 
 enquire for the road to a water-fall, in its vicinity. 
 
 Being there directed to keep up a narrow val- 
 ley to the right, we foon found ourfelves on the 
 fide of a fteep mountain, with a ftrong current 
 of water defcending through a winding dingle 
 on the left, and very foft and deceitful ground 
 under our feet, in confequence of the multitude 
 of rabbits which abound here. 
 
 As it did not appear poffible to approach the 
 entrance of the chafm on horfeback, through 
 which the water defcended, we endeavoured to 
 make ourfelves heard by a fhepherd, whofe ha- 
 bitation flood on the brow of the oppofite hill. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. IO? 
 
 The man foon made his appearance, and di- 
 rected us to return to the foot of the mountain; 
 and then to ride up the courfe of the ftream. 
 This, however, is not always practicable, and in 
 wet feafons, it is impoffible to go up very near 
 to the cataract. 
 
 Purfuant to the inductions, which had been 
 o-iven us, we afcended between two tremendous 
 cliffs, compofed of naked rocks and flate, among 
 which trees of various fizes hung fufpended by 
 their roots over the mod awful chafm my eyes 
 ever beheld. 
 
 The effect is greatly heightened by the colour 
 of the rock, which is almoft black. The impend- 
 ing precipices, which appear in fome places ready 
 to overwhelm the intrufrve traveller, and the 
 rough grandeur of the prodigious maffes here 
 and there detached from the great body of the 
 mountain, added to the (tupendous height to 
 which the eye is directed, altogether filled us 
 with a degree of aftonifhment and horror fcarcely 
 to be paralleled. 
 
 From a break in the extremity of this fiffure, 
 but not from the very top, a fine cafcade fell 
 gracefully, for about feventy feet, over the rough 
 projecting edges of the rock, and variegated the 
 fcene with a fheet of foam. 
 
 There 
 
Io8 A JOURNEY 
 
 There are five or fix fmaller cafcades, which 
 are not feen from below, but which, in wet 
 weather, or after the melting of fnow, are all 
 objects highly deferving of attention. 
 
 It is remarkable that trout of a very large fize, 
 are found in all parts of this fmgular fall, — even 
 in the chinks and crevices of the rocks which 
 form the uppermoft cafcades, and which are not 
 more than a quarter of a mile from the fource 
 of the fpring which fupplies them. 
 
 Directly above the great water-fall, is an in- 
 fulated rock, nearly twenty feet high, whofe ba- 
 ds is worn to a flender pillar, by the repercufiive 
 force of the cataract, — which is called " Water 
 cc break its neck,* 9 
 
 The mangled carcafes of two flieep and a 
 goat were melancholy proofs of the danger to 
 which thefe harmlefs animals are expofed, in 
 feeding, by night, too near the brink of this 
 dreadful chafm. 
 
 The ihepherd recommended us, as the day 
 was clear, and we had fufficient time to avoid 
 the imminent danger of being on the mountains 
 after dark, to purfue a narrow path which he 
 pointed out, along the fide of this Alpine ridge, 
 
 and 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 109 
 
 and' which, he faid, would re-conduct us into 
 the turnpike road from which we had deviated. 
 
 Never, furely, was a fight more noble or more 
 interefting than the bold and tremendous view 
 which foon prefented itfelf. 
 
 We climbed the heights without difficulty, but 
 were, on a fudden, elevated fo prodigioufly above 
 precipices, glens, and frightful declivities, that 
 the head became giddy at the fight. 
 
 The furface of the mountains was here fmooth 
 as a carpet,— there, rugged, and broken into a 
 thoufand fiflures, — here, a dream precipitated 
 itfelf from the giddy eminence, — there, a patch 
 of fnow, ftrikingly contrafted the verdure of the 
 downs, while fheep innumerable were fcattered 
 over the whole face of the country, and dotted 
 the wide expanfe in a ityle of inimitable beauty. 
 
 With cautious fteps we paced the track af- 
 figned us, and fortunately reached the level coun- 
 try without one falfe flep, — for one falfe ftep 
 would have been irretrievable. 
 
 An ancient female who was affifting her huf- 
 bandin his field, directed us into the road, which 
 we regained at a point where it enters an enclofed 
 country, under the fliadow of a rocky promon- 
 tory, called Llandegles Rocks ', which exactly re- 
 
 fembles 
 
iio A JOURNEY 
 
 fembles Crockern Tort and Brent Torr, in Corn* 
 wall and Devon/hire, and thofe other eminences 
 to which fimtiar appellations are there applied. 
 
 The road foon brought us to the village of 
 Llandegles : and a painted pofl on the right hand 
 pointed to Llandegles Welh -,— - -a fulphureous vitri- 
 olic water, which arifes in a field near the road. 
 
 The fpring is immediately conducted into a 
 fmall building, now dilapidated, in which is a 
 refervoir, which ferves as a bath for the few per- 
 fons who refort hither. 
 
 The water is covered with a brown fcum, is 
 of a very dark blue, or rather blackifh colour, 
 and emits a firong and mod abominable flench, 
 as of rotten eggs. 
 
 Its tafte is not, however, fo difagreeable as 
 might be^expected, the impregnation of the vi- 
 triol being but flight. 
 
 From Llandegles the alliance is only two miles 
 to Penny 'bont 9 a ftill fmaller village. Here I faw, 
 for the firft time, a herd of Welch oxen feeding, 
 and a great number of thofe rough looking, 
 but fure-footed ponies with which this country 
 abounds, were nibbling the moffy turf of the 
 mountains* 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES* HI 
 
 The neat cottages of Penny bont are prettily 
 fituated on the bank of a broad and clear dream, 
 the river Eython, over which is a wooden bridge. 
 
 One of the houfes here was for fome years the 
 Radnor/hire bank, a mod refpectable firm, though 
 fituated in this remote and almoft defolate part 
 of the country. 
 
 The iblitude here is pleafing, for though not 
 adorned with morTy grots or verdant lawns, the 
 river rolls over the (tones with a gentle murmur- 
 ing, and chere is cheerfulnefs as well as quiet, 
 " rivi levis et per faxa. difcurfus, nee non folitudo 
 " et quies, mufis amici^ r ima. ,, 
 
 Afcending a hill beyond Penny-bont, we had 
 before us a large valley, which extends to a great 
 diftance towards the fouth, and is bounded, on 
 that fide, by a wavy line of mountainous emi- 
 nences, whofe blue fumrnits feem to indent the. 
 clouds. 
 
 The country here is well cultivated, and agree- 
 ably interfperfed with wood. 
 
 The women, who are in general very robuft 
 and well calculated to endure fatigue, fhare with 
 the ftronger fex the mod: arduous exertions and 
 bufmefs of hufbandry, and they are very com- 
 monly feen either driving the horfes affixed to 
 
 the 
 
112 A JOURNEY 
 
 the plough, or leading thofe which draw thd 
 harrow. 
 
 Having croffed this valley the road winds round 
 the fide of a noble mountain, which rifes with 
 awful majefty to a tremendous height. 
 
 A mile and a half from Rhyader>gdwy 9 we 
 came within fight of that town, and approached 
 it by a good road, gently defcertding. 
 
 The fituation oiRhyader is romantic, its build- 
 ings are clean and neat, there is an air of induf- 
 trious activity about the inhabitants, and their 
 civility is accordant with the general tenor of 
 what I have before defcribed to have uniformly 
 met with, in this part of the country. 
 
 In the principal ftreet is a fmall market-houfe, 
 built with rough (tones ; and the town contains 
 feveral houfes which would make a good figure, 
 in places very differently fituated. 
 
 The river Wye paffes Rhyader through a rocky 
 channel, and under a ftrong bridge of one arch, 
 which has been delineated with great accuracy 
 by Mr. Ireland. 
 
 The view of the neighbouring country, from 
 the bank of the river, is highly picturefque and 
 romantic. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. U3 
 
 The craggy bed of the Wye, whofe foaming 
 current rufhes along clofe to the- town; two fmall 
 and neat churches, which appear to belong to it, 
 (though they are in reality appropriated to the 
 ufe of different parifhes) and the bold front of 
 the mountains, whofe bofoms are thrown for- 
 ward towards the courfe of the river, are objects 
 which cannot fail to intereft every admirer of nar 
 ture, and every lover of rural life. 
 
 Mr. Evans, who keeps the Red Lion Inn, is a 
 fenfible, well-informed man, and took the pains 
 to correct my orthography of the Welch names 
 of towns, with great civility. 
 
 The public would have been laid under an ob- 
 ligation by Meffrs. Gilpin and Ireland, if they 
 had condefeended to afk the like affiftance. Mr. 
 Ireland fpells Rhyader, Rhaidr ; the river Eytbon, 
 Ither ; the Rhyddol, Rydall ; and the name of 
 Bifhop de Lotharinga, which is very plainly writ- 
 ten for him over the monument at Hereford, he 
 calls Lozinga. 
 
 Human life is fo made up of a collection of little 
 circumftances, and fo much of our happinefs or 
 mifery depends upon thofe little circumftances, 
 which, being common to all, many affect to de- 
 fpife -, that I hope I fhall not be thought trivially 
 
 I minute 
 
114 A JOURNEY 
 
 minute, in recording again and again, the refpecl* 
 ful behaviour,— the genuine politenefs,— the" ac- 
 commodating civilities of the people of this re- 
 mote fit nation. 
 
 A good humoured Welch girl was the only at* 
 tendant, who, though flie underftood fcarcely one 
 word of Englifh, manifefted that docility of tem- 
 per, and afliduity to pleafe, which is the fuperior 
 accomplifhment of her fiation ; and which I am 
 happy to have eflablifhed in my remembrance, 
 as the general characleriftic of the Welch nation. 
 
 Blufli, ye fons of luxury, and votaries of re- 
 finement ! Ye who think that infolence is wit* 
 and rudenefs courage ! learn of the wild inhabit 
 tants of the mountains that generofity of fenti- 
 ment, which prompts intuitively to oblige, and 
 , far excels in its intrinfic value, the brighter!: gems 
 of poliOied refinement. 
 
 Here we were regaled with an excellent fup- 
 per. A couple of very fine roafted fowls, 'a 
 ham, a large difh of veal cutlets, a piece of 
 cold road beef, and excellent tarts ; for all which, 
 including about a quart of ilrong beer per man* 
 we only paid one /hilling each. 
 
 Tollerable fare ! for what a certain traveller 
 has captioufly denominated "a miferable place." 
 
 M 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. Ilj 
 
 At Rhyader we obferved a building of fome 
 fize, ufed as a diflenting .meeting houfe. On 
 the door was patted a profpectus of the Bible, 
 in the Welch language ; from which I infer that 
 the literature of this part of the country is chiefly 
 in the hands of the difienters, as well as in 
 England. 
 
 This remark may, perhaps, require fome ex- 
 planation, or, at leaft, there may be a few cri- 
 tics who will be inclined to cavil at it ; — to thefe 
 I {hall only obferve, in the very words ufed by a 
 refpe&able publifher in Lo?idon fome time fmce, 
 " The clergy of the church of England are, in 
 " general, too rich, too proud, too ignorant, 
 " or too lazy to attend to the bufinefs of com- 
 " pilation." 
 
 la 
 
Il6 A JOURNEY" 
 
 CHAR XII. 
 
 Crofs the River Wye. — Mountain. — Defert. — Bogs.-—PrecU 
 pees. — Promontories. — Lead- Mine. 
 
 Lead ore, or galena, is found in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Rhyader, as well as in the hills 
 more weft ward. A very rich fpecimen was 
 fhewn us, which had been lately dug up near the 
 town, in draining a bog. 
 
 Croffed the Wye, and afcended by a very deep 
 road, to the fummit of a mountain, which ap- 
 peared fomewhat elevated above thofe which 
 furround it; — then deviated to the left, and 
 gained the projecting point of an eminence, which 
 affords a romantic profpecl of a number of hills, 
 covered with craggy rocks, and a torrent tumb- 
 ling among the precipices into a hollow valley. 
 
 Having returned into the road, and completed 
 an afcent of about three miles, we enjoyed a 
 errand view of the bleak fummits of innumerable 
 mountains ; and, on a fudden, rearing its head 
 with proud pre-eminence, the mighty and ma- 
 jeflic Plinllimmon burft on our aftonifhed fight. 
 4 We 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. • I 1 7 
 
 We had been contemplating fo many hills of 
 various fizes, both yefterday and to day ; and, 
 at this very time, feemed to be elevated fo near 
 to the clouds, that I could have fcarcely believed 
 it poffible for this king of the fouth, to appear fo 
 much diftinguifhed from the red: of the moun- 
 tains : nor can I find words to exprefs the fenfa- 
 tion produced by its fir ft appearance, apparently 
 clad in fnow, and foaring, beyond comparifon, 
 above thofe huge ridges, which a moment be- 
 fore, feemed like the " boundaries of nature." 
 
 The eminences around us, now refutned the 
 appearance of fine fwelling downs, having loft 
 the craggy rocks, with which the hills we had 
 lately palled were covered. 
 
 Their furfaces were varied by innumerable 
 fprings, whofe tranflucent waters, when collected, 
 form the little river Eytbon, which murmured 
 among the rocks, and foamed at the bottom of 
 a valley on the left. 
 
 The oppofite hills were covered with fheep, 
 and black cattle, who feemed to nibble at the 
 fcanty herbage, with great eagernefs. 
 
 Turning to the right we began to defcend 3 and 
 
 at length, by a winding track, approached the 
 
 bottom of the valley, where the river, which 
 
 1 3 forces 
 
Il8 A JOURNEY 
 
 forces itfelf with great violence among the rocks, 
 is made ftill more pi&urefque, by a rude bridge 
 thrown over it. 
 
 A tributary itrearn comes from the well:, and 
 increafes the violence of the current, as it ftill 
 winds not far from the fide of the road, which 
 alternately rifes and finks, running like a fort of 
 terrace at the foot of the mountains. 
 
 Our ears were aftonifhed with a noife, which, 
 in any other road, would have been mi (taken for 
 that of a carriage: it proved, however, to be 
 the defcent of a current of water from the hills. 
 
 Its banks approach near together, and enclofe 
 the turbulent ftream, within fo narrow and deep 
 a channel, that although we were riding very 
 near it, the water was completely Jiidden among 
 the rocks. 
 
 e f Claufo fxt gurgite murmur, 
 
 *' Vicinaeque fremunt rips crepitantibus unclis." 
 
 Some granite, and coarfe marble, are here 
 intermixed with a kind of blue ftone, eafily mif- 
 taken for flate. 
 
 The road bending by the foot of the moun- 
 tains, croffes a pretty large ftream, which, 
 from the width of its channel, mult, in winter, 
 be very dangerous, if not impaffable* 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I 10, 
 
 The hills on the left again became more rug- 
 ged, and we loft our old companion, the Eython, 
 which turns into a valley to the fouth-weli. 
 
 " Then varying to a joylefs land of bogs, 
 
 " The fadden'd country a grey wade appearM." 
 
 We palled a piece of marfiry ground, and fome 
 tremendous bogs, whofe infecure and rotten fur- 
 face difdains the preffure of the foot of man. 
 
 The road afterwards leads over very rough 
 rocks, and loofe (tones, which appear to have 
 fallen from an abrupt precipice. Here, likewiie, 
 lay the carcafes of three fheep, which, I fuppofe, 
 had tempted the giddy height, fallen from its 
 fiippery fide, and perifned. 
 
 Not a Tingle habitation is to be difcerned ; not 
 a tree, nor a bufn to be feen : nor has the fur- 
 face of the ground ever yielded to the ftroke of 
 the plough-fhare. 
 
 " No human voice interrupts the ftill iilence 
 * c which here prevails ; no trace of cultivation 
 " enlivens the dreary folitude." 
 
 We parted along a terrace, which fome- 
 times arofe very high up the fide of the moun- 
 tain, in the mod romantic ftyle imaginable. 
 
 The rocky promontory which we had juft be- 
 fore contemplated with aftonifhment, was, how- 
 i 4 ever* 
 
120 A JOURNEY 
 
 ever, not to be compared with the fcene which 
 now prefented itfelf. 
 
 The road clinging to the fide of a lofty moun* 
 tain, every where rough, with large fragments 
 of rocks, is elevated about fixty yards above the 
 bottom of a narrow valley, which is occupied by 
 a rapid flream hilling among the rocks, and 
 whirling in a thoufand eddies. 
 
 On the oppofite fide, the mountain moots into 
 an abrupt precipice towards the weft, and termi- 
 nates in a craggy point, at leaft five hundred 
 feet high ; but, from the boldnefs of the decli- 
 vity, not farther than that diftance from the path 
 along which we were riding* 
 
 The hills which fheltered us on the left, de- 
 fcended by the boldeft Hope which can be con- 
 ceived, Ihort of a cliff, or a precipice : and the 
 fheep, feeding on its fide, feemed to hang in the 
 air. 
 
 Some Welch ponies were grazing on the op- 
 pofite fteep, in fituations which made me (hud- 
 der to look at them. They fhifted their pofi- 
 tion, however, as if in perfect fafety; and 
 fcrambled about among the cliffs as if they 
 had wings to fave themfelves from the danger 
 of falling. 
 
 As 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 121 
 
 As we defcended lower into the valley, the 
 height of the mountains was feen to greater ad- 
 vantage ; but, in this defcent, our eyes were 
 principally directed to the hazardous fituation of 
 the road ; and our attention engaged by the 
 danger to which we were ourfelves expofed. 
 
 Afterwards, when we had time to look about 
 us, we were aftonifhed to fee, with how much 
 apparent unconcern and facility, a female moun- 
 taineer climbed this prodigious eminence, with 
 a large burden of wood on her head, although 
 the place where (lie afcended was, at leaft, as 
 deep as the roof of a houfe. 
 
 She walked in as much feeming fecurity, as if 
 fhe had been on level ground ; and when me 
 had gained the fummit, fate herfelf quietly down, 
 and took her turn to obferve our appearance, as 
 we had done her's. 
 
 It is worthy of remark, that whenever a fpring 
 is feen defcending from the fide of this narrow 
 valley, it is matched by another, on the oppofite 
 bank ; and the rocks, among which their accu- 
 mulated waters flow, are, in many places, beau- 
 tifully covered and variegated with ivy. 
 
 Having arrived at what we thought the termi- 
 nation of the valley, we were indulged with a 
 profpeft of four habitations at once. 
 
 I was 
 
1±2 A JOURNEY 
 
 I was muling whether this might be denomi- 
 nated a village, when the road turning fuddenly 
 to the right, difcovered that the valley did not 
 terminate here 5 but that the hills receding back- 
 ward formed a kind of amphitheatre, and pre- 
 fented, very unexpectedly, a view of feveral cul- 
 tivated fields ; and a modern bridge, with an or- 
 namented ballufiradc. 
 
 This is the village of Cwm Tftwiih^ than which 
 there are few to be feen, more miferable, or more 
 clefolate. 
 
 I counted five chimneys, the only mode I had 
 of afcertaining the number of houfes ; and I pre- 
 fume that I was not much miftaken ; for I could 
 not fuppofe, by their appearance," that either of 
 the houfes had two chimneys ; and I would not 
 degrade the town fo much, as to believe that 
 there was any houfe without one. 
 
 CroiTed the bridge, (which I mould have 
 thought better adapted to the fcenery around it, 
 if it had only confided of a fmgle arch, with a 
 plain parapet,) and paffed along a terrace on the 
 fide of a craggy mountain. • 
 
 On the left was a perpendicular defcent to the 
 water's edge ; and fufpended over us, nodding 
 rocks, which feemed to threaten the traveller 
 
 with inftant deflruclion. 
 
 Large 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I23 
 
 Large mades of (lone had been loofeiled by the 
 frod, or tumbled into the road, and down* the 
 deep below, by the tempeduous wintry winds. 
 
 The horrors of fuch a fcene in winter mud be 
 paft conception, excepting by thofe who are un- 
 fortunately expofed to dorms and tempefls in this 
 dreary and frightful folitude. 
 
 The rugged banks of the river now become 
 fringed with cultivated fields, and here and there 
 a turf-covered cottage rears its humble roof, 
 The mountains are, however, extremely difmal ; 
 their fleecy inhabitants are no longer feen, and 
 the Welch poney alone remains the hardy tenant 
 pf this folitary and defert wade. 
 
 Faded a lead-mine, the fcorise of which, point- 
 ed out its fituation long before we could didin- 
 guifh the fhaft. 
 
 . No human creature appeared of whom any in- 
 telligence about it could be obtained ; at lad five 
 females emerged from the paflage which has 
 been made to drain off the water from the mine % 
 but not one of them could fpeak a word of 
 Englijh, 
 
 Farther on we faw a fecond work, and one 
 man among the labourers could fpeak Englijh : 
 he conducted us to a fubterranean paflage, which 
 
 entered 
 
J 24 A JOURNEY 
 
 entered into the bowels of the mountain for 
 about three hundred yards ; then turning to the 
 right, a gentle afcent brought us to the mine, 
 without the inconvenience of any rope and 
 bucket exhibition. 
 
 The mode of digging and procuring the ore is 
 the fame as in the tin mines ; but there being left 
 fpar, the labour is not fo confiderable. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I 25 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Hafoih— Cafcades, — Walks. — Bridges. — Kitchen Garden, — 
 The Cockatoo, — River Tflwith. — Pont-y-Mynach. 
 
 Soon after we left the lead-mine, the foil ap- 
 peared altered; the ftrata of flone being ex- 
 changed for a fort of flate, which being eafily 
 reduced into fmall pieces, and readily compact- 
 ing, makes a firm, hard, and even road. 
 
 The furface of the mountains is ilill broken 
 and rugged 5 but there is an appearance of til- 
 lage, and a few trees begin to grow. 
 
 The road afcends, and fkirting the right-hand 
 mountain, prefents a continual fcene of confter- 
 nation and horror, till it comes to a frightful pre- 
 cipice, which made me excefiively giddy. 
 
 On the left is a peep into a fmall valley, whofe 
 fides are covered with wood, which we knew 
 muir. be Mr. Johnes's, at Hafod. 
 
 The river murmuring among the rocks at the 
 bottom, foon paffes a woody glen ; by whofe 
 fide are feveral enclofures in tillage. 
 
 Here were half a fcore of Welch boys, drefTed 
 in almoft black clothes, dancing round a fire of 
 
 fwitch, 
 
126 A JOURNEY 
 
 iwitch, in a field ; a group which brought to my 
 mind the idea conveyed in Robin/on Crufoe's ad- 
 ventures* of the favages at their revels. 
 
 Defcending by fome comfortable neat cot- 
 tages, we entered on another terrace \ but this is 
 guarded by a (lone wall, which, though built 
 without cement, paries fo many inequalities of 
 ground, that it murl have cod great labour and 
 pains in raifmg. 
 
 Turned to the left, for Bafod, through a din- 
 gle, covered with oaks, and afterwards crofTed a 
 more extenfive wood* which is fpread over a no- 
 ble hill on the right. This brought us to" a little 
 meadow, clofe to another woody Hope, which 
 rifes to an aftonifhing height on one fide of the 
 road, and defcends on the other to the rocks at 
 the water's edge. 
 
 In one place, peeped through the trees, and 
 caught a glimpfe of a cafcade, which is no 
 fooner loft, than a flower garden prefents itfelf. 
 
 The craggy rocks which appear among the 
 trees on the right, flioot up to a prodigious ele- 
 vation, and a fmall turret has been happily placed 
 on one of them, which is executed with fo much 
 tafte and propriety, that it can fcareely be thought 
 artificial, 
 
 On 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 12? 
 
 On a Hoping ground, at the foot of this beau- 
 tiful wood, and enclofed with a truly rural and 
 fylvan fcene, (lands the manfion houfe* an ele- 
 gant building, in the Italian (tyle, with a con- 
 fervatory adjoining. 
 
 The meadow, or lawn, to which it opens, lies 
 in its natural (late. No Brownonia?i attempts 
 have been made to Hope and fwell it : a few trees 
 are here and there fcattered about ; but they are 
 all of the forefl kinds ; and the drive up to the 
 door is thrown into the moll carelefs and elegant 
 bend imaginable. 
 
 To fpeak of Hafod as a connoiffeur, there is a 
 great deal to admire, and to praifej and, per- 
 haps, a little to difapprove. 
 
 My expectations, I will candidly acknowledge, 
 had been greatly raifed, by the feveral defcrip- 
 tions which I have read of this place ; and al- 
 though fome of thofe expectations were difap- 
 pointed, it is rather to the honour of the grounds, 
 than to their difcredit. 
 
 So much flrefs has been laid on the rarity of 
 the fcene, and the (Inking contrail between it, 
 and the rugged afpedt of the furrounding coun- 
 try, that I had begun to fuppofe the chef d 9 csuvre 
 confided in creating aftonilhment and feeding 
 
 furprife, 
 
128 A JOURNEY 
 
 furprife, by a difplay of highly-finifhed orna- 
 ments, and laboured decorations. 
 
 So far from its being a place entirely different 
 from the genius of the country, I confider its 
 greateft merit to arife from its confiftency ; and 
 the fuitablenefs of the arrangements to fhew 
 fome great natural beauties to the mod: flriking 
 advantage. 
 
 Although we admire tafte, as the handmaid of 
 art, fhe has a better claim to our regard, as the 
 fitter of fimplicity ; a relationfhip which is, per- 
 haps, feldom fo readily difcovered as at Hafod. 
 
 When I read of Goihic> Chinefe, Rujiic^ and 
 many other bridges, I expected to have found 
 feveral attempts at prettinefs, which the furround- 
 ing fcenery would have rendered odious and dif- 
 gufting. Inftead of this, you are conducted over 
 the three dreams, which conftitute the principal 
 beauty of the grounds, in one place, by a ftrong 
 rough arch, which can not be faid to belong to 
 any order of architecture ; and which ferving for 
 ftrength and utility only, is almofl hidden in the 
 furrounding trees : in two or three other places 
 by a fmgle tree, or a rude plank, thrown care- 
 lefsly acrofs, in the mod artlefs ftyle of genuine 
 fimplicity j and in one inflance only, has the 
 
 hand 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I 29 
 
 hand of art made its appearance, which is in a 
 neat wooden bridge, without any pretentions to 
 ornament, which is thrown over the united 
 ftreams of the 7J/hvith 9 within fight of the houfe. 
 
 We firft viewed the kitchen garden, which 
 is placed in a very warm dell, in the fouthern 
 corner of the little narrow valley, which enclofes 
 thefe premifes ; and walked through an extenfive 
 range of forcing houfes, which occupy almoft the 
 whole of the north fide of the garden. 
 
 Here we were introduced to a moft beautiful 
 bird, of the paroquet fpecies, called the cocka- 
 too, a native of the Eaji Indies ; who ranges 
 about, without controul ; and though he fome- 
 times leaves the garden, and goes into the neigh- 
 bouring wood, he always returns in the evening 
 to his accuftomed place of repofe. 
 
 The gardener informed us, that this extraor*. 
 dinary bird was particularly fond of ftrangers ? 
 who fometimes careffed it : — we no fooner ap- 
 proached, than it fet up a very fhrill note, as if 
 of rejoicing ; ftretched out its foot from the fpray 
 on which he flood, and feemed defirous of a more 
 intimate acquaintance. I gave him my hand 
 into which he immediately defcended with great 
 K gravity, 
 
130 A JOURNEY 
 
 gravity, but apparent fatisfaclion ; turned himfelf 
 round, difplayed a mod beautiful triple yellow 
 creflr, which rifes three or four inches^ from his 
 head, and then perching on my finger, peered 
 up in my face, as if to thank me for this indul- 
 gence. 
 
 How happy would a difciple of Pythagoras 
 have felt himfelf, in the enjoyment of his fa- 
 vourite docliine of tranfmigration : he would 
 have found in the cockatoo fome valuable and 
 long loft friend ; who in the new habit of the fea- 
 thered race, recognized his former acquaintance, 
 and frill felt the bond of friend fhip's.facred tie. 
 
 There is fomething inexpreflibly beautiful in 
 the idea ; and, as it naturally led to produce a 
 great degree of tendernefs and companion for 
 the animal creation, the man of feeling can not 
 but lament, that while Chrillians expunge the 
 errors of this doclrine, they do not more ftudi- 
 oully regard the benignity of thofe principles, 
 which it fo forcibly inculcates. 
 
 The beautiful little bird travelled with us 
 round the garden, frequently imitating the cry 
 or notes of the different birds, which were Ting- 
 ing among the trees* 
 
 In 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I $1 
 
 • In the hot houfe he efpied fome ftrawberries, 
 and gathered a great number, but without quit- 
 ting my hand. Having perambulated the gar- 
 den, I could not readily difengage myfelf from 
 my new companion, who clung to me with all 
 the fondnefs of affection. 
 
 At parting he fet up a very fhrill note, ex- 
 tremely different from that with which he wel- 
 comed us on our arrival ; and we left him to the 
 enjoyment of his fruit, while we went to explore 
 the beauties of the contiguous grounds. 
 
 We were conducted by the fide of the river, 
 which was at that time very low, and fcarcely 
 covered the half of its ftony bed, to the foot of 
 the Chinefe bridge, as it has been called. 
 
 Here the attention is arrefled, firffc by the 
 magnificence of the furrounding fcenery, the 
 bold elevation of the mountains on each fide, and 
 the fylvan honours with which they are crowned : 
 next, by the foaming current, which daihes 
 againfl the rocks below ; and then, by the fair 
 front of the manfion on the left, which is ele- 
 gance itfelf. 
 
 Purfuing a path on the north fide of the river, 
 we faw on the left, the little turret before men- 
 tioned, on the pinnacle of a rock, half buried 
 Ka ia 
 
1^2 A JOURNEY 
 
 in the fhade of magnificent oaks, which clothe 
 the hill in gorgeous majefty. 
 
 Here is a fmall (lone building, ufed as a cold 
 bath, perfectly plain and unadorned. The trees 
 on the oppofite Hope, which, like this, arifes 
 from the river's brink, appear perfectly wild ; 
 and, excepting the mark of one narrow path, 
 which may be traced among them, there is not 
 the fmalleft indication that thefe folitary haunts 
 are accu domed to the human foot. 
 
 This walk leads to the flower garden, which 
 is walled in, and difpofed in a neat, and perhaps 
 elegant manner ; but it is, I think, too formal 
 to be pleafing. On one fide is a fmall alcove, 
 and the flowers here, as well as in the conferva- 
 tory, are kept with great care. 
 
 Skirted the edge of the water, among large 
 rocks, and maffes of blue (lone ; and afcended 
 towards tl,e north, with the river foaming and 
 roaring beneath our feet. 
 
 A fmall ruftic building, furnimed with a feat, 
 feems to terminate the walk; but the moment 
 you reach it, a fine cafcade is feen burfting into 
 the valley, between the trees ; and though the 
 height of the fall is not confiderable, the effect 
 produced is wonderfully (hiking ; the ftream 
 
 being 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 33 
 
 being very rapid, and the furrounding fcenery 
 highly romantic. 
 
 Crofled the river, and following the windings 
 of the path, among the trees, foon came to an- 
 other cafcade of great breadth and force, which 
 mud be truly grand, when the ftream is aug- 
 mented by wintry fhowers ; for it then rifes ten 
 or twelve feet above its rocky bed, and fills the 
 mind with the fublimeft conceptions which a vio- 
 lently agitated and roaring cataracl is capable of 
 exciting. 
 
 This part of the garden is full of beauties }.— 
 almoft every turning of the river (whofe courfe 
 is extremely irregular) presenting a romantic 
 water-fall of greater or lefs extent ; and a dou- 
 ble diredion being often given to the ftream, 
 among the huge ftones at bottom, has a fine 
 effeft. 
 
 Here ftands the ftrong bridge of rough ftone, 
 before mentioned ; and all its folidity is required, 
 to refift, unimpaired, the conflict of the waters, 
 which threaten every thing with deftruction ; and 
 have even rent afunder the rocks which had 
 been made ufe of, as a foundation for the path ; 
 as if jealous of the (hanger's eye, and refentful 
 K 3 of 
 
$34 A JOURNEY 
 
 of his intrufion on the fecret beauties of the 
 place, 
 
 Afcended through the wood, the fcenery be- 
 ing varied by an opening to a naked hill on the 
 eafl (which I could not help wifhing to have feen 
 crowded with pines) and palled through a mea- 
 dow, which brought us to another flream, and 
 a narrow cafcade, by whofe fide we climbed up 
 a fteep bank, among mofly rocks and precipices, 
 till we were again hidden in the wood. 
 
 Crofled a noify brawling flream, by a rural 
 bridge, formed of a fingle unhewn tree, care- 
 lefsly thrown over it, and guarded by a rude 
 railing ; and afcended the oppofite bank, till we. 
 feemed to have arrived at the head of the fpring, 
 whence the flream originated. 
 
 Here an arch in the rock yawned before us, 
 and a fubterranean paffage perforates it ; — the 
 darning noife of falling water is heard at a dif- 
 tance ; all elfe is folemn flillnefs :— we enter the 
 aperture, and are fhrouded, for a moment, in 
 total darknefs ; then abruptly turning to the left, 
 a bold flream is feen precipitating itfelf from the 
 edgQ of a black rock, into a frightful chafm, of 
 unknown depth. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. IJ5 
 
 The r pray dafhes into the mouth of the cave,, 
 and the ear is (tunned with the roaring of the 
 cataract. 
 
 AH rhis is vaftly fine, but the impreffion which 
 I fdlt on feeing it, was not equal to what has 
 been Jefcribed by other travellers ; for, by fome 
 means, the cave leffens the effect of the cafcade, 
 which, befides its being thus rendered the fole 
 object of contemplation, is cooped up in a nar- 
 row corner, and brought too near the fpeclator : 
 whereas, if it could have been contrived to have 
 fir ft paffed through the rocks, then to have en- 
 joyed a peep of day-light, and with it a more 
 diftant view of the cataract, falling either amosg 
 the trees, or into the mofs-grown valley, the ef- 
 fect, in my humble opinion, would have been 
 much more (hiking. 
 
 We returned by the fame path, and crofted 
 the TJlwith, by another ruftic bridge, clofe to 
 a root houfe. 
 
 The river, in this part of its courfe, might, at 
 a comparatively trivial expence, be rendered 
 highly ornamental to the garden. 
 
 At prefent, it runs murmuring, or rather 
 
 groaning, along a rough and mallow channel, 
 
 which is not often full : with a little trouble, the 
 
 K 4 larger 
 
136 A Journey 
 
 larger ftones might be removed from the bed df 
 the ftream ; and the ground being funk to the 
 eafiward, and raifed towards the Chinefe bridge* 
 a fine fmooth ferpentine lake might be formed, 
 and a large meet of water made to defeend in a 
 cafcade, near the bridge* 
 
 The ftillnefs of this part of the river would 
 then afford an agreeable contrafl to the reft of 
 the fcenery ; and the new cafcade, which would 
 differ greatly in fhape from the others, would, I 
 think, be a confiderable ornament to the grounds, 
 and might be thrown into the view from the front 
 of the houfe* 
 
 I hope if thefe remarks fhould ever reach the 
 worthy proprietor of Hafod, that he will excufe 
 the liberty which I have taken with his premifes* 
 and read the fuggeftions which I have ventured 
 to make, as rather expreflive of what might be 
 done, than as what is necejfary to render his de- 
 lightful refidence the glory and admiration of 
 Wales. 
 
 Our walk having been protracted to the very 
 verge of day-light, we were under the neceffity 
 of leaving Hafod, without infpecting the houfe, 
 which is faid to contain an epitome of every thing 
 
 ufefulj 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. l^J 
 
 ufeful, elegant, and fplendid; and a well-fur- 
 nifhed library. 
 
 It has been faid> that travellers have nothing 
 to do with the difpofition of thofe, whole houfes 
 and grounds are liberally open to the public ; 
 and that it is impertinent to meddle with them : 
 but I can not avoid thinking, that whenever a 
 character is found fo brilliant as to attract, gene- 
 ral notice* or fo amiable as to deferve imitation, a 
 fervice is rendered to fociety, by that honour- 
 able mention which I am about to make of Mr. 
 Johnes, whom I can not be fuppofed to flatter, 
 becaufe he is an entire ftranger to me, perfonally; 
 and whom I can have no inducement to flatter* 
 becaufe he will probably ever remain fo. 
 
 The voice of the whole country is loud in his 
 praifes, and bears grateful teflimony to the bene- 
 volence and charity by which he is diffinguifhed. 
 
 Among innumerable inftances of his regard for 
 the comfort of the poor in this neighbourhood, 
 there is one which deferves particular notice : it 
 is his care for the fick ; who are brought hither, 
 once every week, when a gentleman of the fa- 
 culty regularly attends, and exhibits fuch medi- 
 cines and affiftance as they feverally require, at 
 Mr. Jobiies*s expence. 
 
 So 
 
*3$ A JOURNEY 
 
 So fenfible and beneficial an act of kindnefs, 
 deferves to be recorded with a pen of iron ! How 
 infinitely fuperior is this to the kitchen phyjic, 
 and mifchievous difpenfation of family medicine*, 
 which a few great perfons call, and think, cha- 
 ritable afliftances to their poor neighbours and 
 dependants ; rendered ftill more valuable by its 
 being performed in a place where the ftraiten- 
 cd finances of the lower orders, can fcarcely, in 
 any inftance, procure for them medical advice ; 
 \*ho at once fuffer under the prefTure of the mod 
 diftrefling calamities, and all the horrors of 
 chterlefs poverty. 
 
 JVtr. Johnes was formerly lieutenant-colonel of 
 the Cat marthenjhire militia, and although he has 
 quitted his public ftation, it is only, that amidfl 
 the fweets of this contemplative retirement, he 
 may rendtr his country the lefs oftentatious, but 
 infinitely more effectual advantages of increafing 
 the comfort and happinefs of fociety, by a wide 
 diiplay of generofity and beneficence to all around 
 Lim : for, as Mr. Pope obferves, " the filent vir- 
 " tues of a good man in folitude, are more amW 
 <; able than all the noify honours of active life." 
 
 "When we had taken leave of Hafod, we foon 
 recovered the road to Aberyjlwhh> and proceed- 
 ed 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 139 
 
 ed along it, till we arrived at a narrow pafs be- 
 tween the mountains, where the divifion of the 
 path threw us into a mofl unpleafant ftate of 
 doubt which track we ought to purfue. 
 
 Hitherto, all the way from Hafod, I had been 
 meditating on the benevolent difpofition of Mr. 
 Jobnes, and revolving in my mind the numerous 
 inftances which had been related to us, of his 
 regard for the neighbourhood ; but here, thought 
 I, might his munificence find an opportunity of 
 difplaying itfelf, in a manner highly gratifying to 
 the way-worn traveller ; and that at the fmall ex. 
 pence of erecting a hand poll, at this divifion of 
 the road. 
 
 We luckily took the right-hand courfe, which 
 parried us down the mountain, within view of 
 innumerable hills, whofe fides were cultivated 
 to a great height, and exhibited traces of the 
 plough, in fituations, which might have been 
 thought perfectly inacceflible. 
 
 In the valley on the right, runs the Mynach y 
 a little ftream, fringed with wood ; and we foon 
 caught a glimpfe of a flight bridge thrown over 
 it, which has been delineated by Mr. Spence and 
 others : and afterwards turning to the right, 
 pafled the end of what is vulgarly called the De- 
 vil's 
 
140 A JOURNEY 
 
 <vil's Bridge ; but more properly, and by the na- 
 tive Welch, Pont-y-Mynach, and arrived at the 
 Hafod Arms, a comfortable inn, where every ex- 
 ertion of civility concurred with excellent provi- 
 fions, to recompence the fatigue of a long jour- 
 ney* 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I4I 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Hafod-Arms Inn. — Falls of the Rhyddol and the Mynach.— 
 Sublime Scenery. — Reflexions. 
 
 The Hafod-Arms has been bulk as a houfe of 
 public entertainment by Mr. Johnes. It (lands 
 on the brink of a romantic dell, not far from 
 the celebrated fall of the Mynach, which has 
 engaged the attention of all travellers, fince it 
 has become fafhionable to inveftigate the beauties 
 of our native country, and near its junction with 
 the Rhyddol. 
 
 In front of the principal room a huge chafm 
 penetrates into the bofom of the oppofite moun- 
 tain, and difplays tne rough furfaces of moiTy 
 rocks, vvhofe fummits are clothed with wood. 
 A winding road borders the edgQ of it, and foon 
 lofes itfelf among the mountains. 
 
 A fmali cafcade ru(hes out of the chafm, and 
 foams over the rocky bottom with a hilling noife, 
 which juft reaches the ear. On the left, the 
 craggy point of a prodigious eminence pierces 
 the clouds, — below it, a flender ftreamlet, like a 
 4 % 
 
142 A JOURNEY 
 
 flip of white ribbon, gracefully falls into the' 
 valley; while a bird's eye view of fields in tillage* 
 and a cottage in the midft, completes afcene, at 
 Once grand, rural, and majeftic* 
 
 The gay month of May was ufhered in with 
 a mofl gloomy louring morning, — the fcowlihg 
 wind roared through the hollow valleys, — the 
 dark clouds obfcured the hills, now robing in 
 their difmal mantle the fwelling fides of thefe tre. 
 mendous mountains, now receding from their 
 fummits, and admitting a gleam of funfhine. One 
 while descending in rattling fhowers, at another 
 time, unfurling their wide extended borders, and 
 enveloping the whole fcene before us, in awful 
 ffliade. 
 
 The weather becoming more favourable we fet 
 out to explore the fcenery of the Devil's Bridge, 
 and I can only regret the inadequacy of my pen 
 to defcribe what I faw or felt on that occafion. 
 
 The bridge confifts of a fmgle arch, over a 
 chafm between two lofty mountains, which are 
 covered with wood from their fummit to the 
 brink of the Mynach, which ruflies with great 
 impetuofity between them ; and of a fecond arch, 
 which is made to fpring from the firft, and em- 
 bracing a wider fpan, paffes directly over it. 
 
 The 
 
Into south walks. 143 
 
 The architecture is rude and Umple, but the 
 accompaniments are grand beyond defcription. 
 
 Palling the bridge, and turning Jhort on f he 
 left, both the arches are in view, and the horrid 
 gulph into which the Mynack precipitates itfelf, 
 and from whence it falls into the chafm below. 
 
 Taking a fecond path, which leads by a zig- 
 zag courfe to a projecting point of the hill, we 
 came in view of three cafcades. On the left, 
 the great fall of the Mynach, which drops at 
 once more than a hundred fett perpendicularly, 
 befides feveral fmaller falls, above and below, 
 among the rocks. Oppofite, a fine flender eaf- 
 cade pouring its tranflucent waters from a ledge 
 of rocks into a corner of this romantic valley, 
 which is lined on all fides with wood. On the 
 right, the bold and impetuous fail of the Rhyd* 
 doL 
 
 The furrounding rocks, from among whofe 
 crevices innumerable oaks and beech trees fhoot 
 forth their waving branches, are covered with 
 mofs ; and their fummit rifes to the height of 
 more than four hundred feet. 
 
 This accounts for the decepiio vifus in viewing 
 the fall of the Rbyddol, from the Hafod-Arms, 
 which is infinitely delightful as well as furprifing* 
 
 Returning 
 
144 ^ A JOURNEY 
 
 Returning about half way up the hill, turned 
 to the left, and declined through the wood, pair- 
 ing two narrow cafcades, which fall from the 
 north-eaftern fide, and arrived at the bed of the 
 Rhyddol, which is formed with immenfe blue 
 (tones, worn fmooth by the attrition of the 
 water. 
 
 Enclofed in this profound folitude, every thing 
 around me hufhed into the (tilled filence, except- 
 ing the roarings of the cafcade, I had time to 
 contemplate the awful projections of the rocks, 
 and the luxuriance of the trees which grow from 
 their interlaces. 
 
 Creeping along a rude path which has been 
 lately made clofe to the river, I came to the ca- 
 taract itfelf ; but how altered ! how wonderfully 
 changed 1— from the infignificancy of a fall of 
 water of a few feet, iiTuing from the narrow cre# 
 vice of a rock, into a little bafon among the 
 (tones below, it is now a mighty torrent, ruining 
 with a thundering noife, out of a tremendous 
 chafm, and, after a fall of feveral yards, in which 
 it appears folded back in a vaft (heet of foam, 
 burying itfelf in a profound abyfs, whofe dark 
 furface is fcarcely agitated by the force and 
 Weight of this great body of water, 
 
 Never 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 45 
 
 Never can I forget the fenfation which I felt 
 in contemplating this folemn and impreflive fcene - 
 My foul, filled with rapturous admiration, looked 
 4i through nature, up to nature's God." His won- 
 derous works, here glorioufly difplayed in fcenery 
 fo noble and majeftic, fpake to my inmoft mind ! 
 and while I beheld the tranfparent ftream, with 
 gratitude to Him who bade thefe waters flow, the 
 fun darted its brilliant rays from the edge of a 
 black cloud, on the fpot where I flood, and the 
 water fparkled with a luflre not to be defcribed, 
 
 I was rivet ted to the place, and experienced 
 that thrilling horror, that reverential awe, that 
 holy dread, which an affemblage of the grandeft 
 fcenery of nature can alone infpirej nor did I 
 leave this facred temple of folitude until I had 
 humbly adored the Creator and Preferver of all 
 around me, — the great, the mighty Lord ! and 
 Father of the univerfe ! ! ! 
 
 " Thefe are thy glorious works, parent of good ! 
 
 ** Almighty ! thine this univerfal frame, 
 
 <f Thus wond'rous fair ; thyfelf how wond'rous then I 
 
 4i Unfpeakable ! who fitt'fl above thefe heavens, 
 
 " To us invifible ; or dimly feen 
 
 " In thefe thy loweft works : yet thefe declare 
 
 u Thy goodnefs beyond thought, and pow'r divine. 
 
 « Hail! univerfal LORD ! " 
 
 L In 
 
I46 A JOURNEY 
 
 In my afcent through the woody flope, paffed 
 two fmall cafcades, which, though defcending 
 with a gentler flream, and over a more gradual 
 declivity, are not without their fhare of beauty, 
 and pi&urefque effect. Here, having no better 
 mode of allaying my third, I laid myfelf flat on 
 the ground, and quaffed the health-infpiring 
 pellucid beverage, which re-animated me with 
 ffrength and fpirits to climb the hill. 
 
 From the fummit, though elevated to fo great 
 a height, the view extends no farther than to the 
 top of the neighbouring mountains, which en- 
 clofe this romantic fpot. The imagination, there- 
 fore, can only wander ; the eye is confined to 
 thofe objects only, which are prefented in a nar- 
 row compafs. Hence it is that they are felt com- 
 pletely, and have fo forcible an effect ; becaufe 
 there is no diffraction of ideas, by an introduc- 
 tion of diflant objects, and the eye " being hin- 
 " dered from ranging, the mind is forced to find 
 ^ entertainment for itfelf." 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 14/ 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Plinllimmon. — Gradual Afcent* — Turf Cottages. — Miferahlc 
 Life of the Shepherds. — Pe?it-y-P/inI/immon> — EffeclsofWar. 
 
 P linllimmon Hill is fo highly deferving of a 
 traveller's attention, that it was one of the prin- 
 cipal objects which engaged my thoughts and 
 expectations on coming into Wales \ but it fo fel- 
 dom happens that its fummit is fairly out of the 
 clouds, that he is peculiarly fortunate who has 
 an opportunity of feeing this prince of hills, when 
 the weather will permit him to enjoy the profpecl; 
 which it commands. 
 
 I was not one of thofe fortunate travellers, for 
 although the weather was fine, and the fun fnone 
 with great brilliancy, before I fet out, with an in- 
 tention to afcend it, the clouds foon gathered and 
 enveloped not only the fugar loaf, but the great 
 fummit of the mountain, in an impenetrable fog. 
 
 We left the Hafod»Arms early in the afternoon, 
 
 with a defire to enjoy, from the top of Plinllim- 
 
 mon 9 the profpecl: of the fetting fun, the moil 
 
 beautiful object in nature ; and, I mould fuppofe, 
 
 L 2 feen 
 
I48 A JOURNEY 
 
 feen from that elevated fituation to the greateft 
 advantage. 
 
 Having afcended from the fummit of the hills 
 which we had juft: pafled to a ftill higher 
 point, we entered on a road enclofed between 
 two hedges, which was fo good and fo level that 
 I could have fancied myfelf in England^ if the 
 bold craggy mountains around us, had not for- 
 bidden it. 
 
 Parted a little church, which feemed to be 
 without bells, there being an empty cupola on 
 the roof, which was deftitute of a tower. One 
 large unhewn (lone, about feven feet high was 
 placed on the north fide of the church-yard, but 
 as I could not obtain any account of it, I cannot 
 convey any information about it. 
 
 We next afcended by the fide of the moun- 
 tains, having in perfpective, here and there, a 
 farm houfe, or a neat cottage. 
 
 Marks of cultivation alfo appeared ; but not a 
 tree is to be feen, excepting about the doors of 
 fome of the fmall farm-houfes. The foil is un- 
 doubtedly capable of cultivation, but there are 
 neither orchards nor gardens. 
 
 The Rhyddol winds on the left among boggy 
 &nd fpo^gy ground, which blackens the profpect; 
 
 and 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. p 1 49 
 
 and we crofled a fmall dream, which defcending 
 by a tortuous courfe through a valley on the 
 right, unites with the Rbyddol below. 
 
 Here we faw a cottage, or rather cairn, com- 
 pletely formed of turf, and covered with the 
 fame. A ftone ferved for the window mutter, 
 and the door was of wicker work. 
 
 It appeared to be the common habitation of a 
 peafant's family, with their ducks, dogs, and 
 fowls; and gave us no very high idea of the clean- 
 linefs or comforts of the mountaineers. It how- 
 ever ferves to fhew the ftrength of that attach- 
 ment which binds men to their native wilds, and 
 enables them to refift the allurements of curiofity, 
 and the temptations of emigration. 
 
 Thus it is, that 
 
 <( The fwarthy Indian, blackening at the line, 
 tf Boafts of his golden fands, and palmy wine, 
 " Bafks in the glare, or items the chryftal wave, 
 c * And thanks his Gods for all the good they gave. 
 <f The fhiv'ring tenant of the frigid zone 
 xe Boldly proclaims the happieft land his own. 
 " Dear is that fhed to which his foul conforms, 
 V And dear that hill which lifts him to the ftorms. 
 <e And as a babe, when fearing founds moleft, 
 (l Clings clofe and clofer to its mother's bread, 
 " So the loud tempeft, and the whirlwinds roar, 
 •' But bind him to his native rocks the more!" 
 
 L 3 There 
 
I^O A JOURNEY 
 
 There appears, about thefe parts, a fpecies of 
 incipient cultivation and induilry, which, if po- 
 pulation were to increafe in any great degree, 
 might be the fource of much advantage to the 
 country. They begin to enclofe large pieces of 
 ground, with walls of turf, which ferve as a 
 commodious flicker to the young lambs, and 
 enable the fhepherds* dogs to defend them in 
 greater fecurity from the drepredations of foxes, 
 which are very numerous among the rocks. 
 
 Thoufands of acres which have now the ap- 
 pearance of bog, and remain entirely ufelefs and 
 unproductive, might, by a little attention and the 
 exertions of a few fpirited individuals, be turned 
 to good account \ and indeed I fee no reafon 
 why the eftablifliment of manufactories' might 
 not be effected. 
 
 Abundance of wool might be obtained from 
 fome parts of this extenfive diftricl:, if thrown 
 into cultivation ; there are already ample dreams 
 for any manufacturing purpofe, and thefe would 
 be increafed by draining the bogs and marfhy 
 ground; and the diftance to Abcryjiwith is only 
 about twelve or fifteen miles, from whence the 
 produce of a factory might find its way to any 
 part of England, by water. Befides all which, 
 
 it 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 151 
 
 it is mod probable that a variety of valuable mi- 
 nerals might be difcovered in the interior of the 
 mountains, which would amply recompence the 
 undertakers for their trouble. 
 
 At prefent, a fhepherd who porTeifes a hundred 
 fheep, though really not poor, is truly wretched 
 and miferable. His children want all the bene- 
 fits of inftruct-ion, and the comforts of food and 
 raiment. Thus forlorn, and almoft hopelefs, 
 they are compelled to wander, by neceffity, and 
 become emigrants, in fpite of the force of do- 
 meftic attachment. 
 
 Every little family has fome hiftory to relate 
 in corroboration of this melancholy truth - 9 and 
 the " long dark winter's night," inflead of being 
 beguiled by the jocund tale of feftivity, and the 
 fportivenefs of ruftic merriment, is faddened by 
 recapitulating the hardfhips to Which the darling 
 child may be expofed in a foreign clime, who 
 has been feduced from his native home by arti- 
 fice and entreaty, or driven from thence by the 
 keen oppreflions of poverty and wretchednefs. 
 
 Having afcended the deep fide of another lofty 
 mountain, we came to the banks of a fmall river, 
 which runs to the eafhvard, in a contrary direc- 
 tion to the couife of the Rhyddol 9 which we had 
 lately paffed. 
 
 L 4 Tbi* 
 
l$l A JOURNEY 
 
 This fpot, though elevated as high as the tops' 
 of the neighbouring mountains, is called the foot 
 of Plinllimmon ; and the little river, which is, 
 I believe, named the Dovey, feparates the county 
 of Cardigan from Montgomeryjhire. 
 
 We had bQQii directed to enquire for a guide 
 to the heights of Plinllimmon, at a cottage near 
 this flream, but there we only found four or five 
 children, in a ftate of the extremeft poverty and 
 filth which can be imagined ; not one of whom 
 could fpeak a word of Englijh, and from whom 
 it was therefore impoffible for us to derive any 
 imiructions about the road. 
 
 Chagrined at this unexpected difappointment, 
 for we had not previoufly calculated the degree 
 of probability which there was of the inhabitants 
 cf the cottage being from home, it only remained 
 for us to fet our faces towards the defert which 
 we had jufl: paffed, and to return to the Hafod 
 Arms ; for we well knew that the mountain was 
 too full of deep bogs for r.s to venture or attempt 
 to afcend without a guide, even if we could have 
 fecured our horfes in the mean time ; which, as 
 there was neither hedge nor tree to be feen, would 
 have been a rather difficult matter. 
 
 We 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 53 
 
 We rode back for about a mile, when we 
 luckily met a fhepherd and his boy driving their 
 flock homeward ; and as there was dill fufficient 
 time for enjoying the grand and extenfive prof- 
 peel: which the clearnefs of the evening feemed. 
 to promife, we foon bargained with the fhepherd 
 to attend us to the fummit of the mountain, or, 
 as he called it, Pent-y-PUnUimmon. 
 
 When our guide had conducted his flock to a 
 fhed, and fecured them for the night, and had 
 put on his fhoes, (for, in order to fave them, thefe 
 poor people tread the mountains barefoot, all day 
 long) we fet forward, and by an eafy afcent, 
 which did not once occafion us to flop for breath, 
 in lefs than an hour arrived at the bafis of the 
 cone which forms the cap or fummit of Plinllim- 
 mon> noticing by the way, the birth of the 6V- 
 vem, the Wye> and the Rhyddol, which owe their 
 origin to this vaft refervoir of fprings, — this trea- 
 fury of hidden waters ! 
 
 It may not be improper to remark, that not- 
 withftanding the immenfe height of PlinHimmon 9 
 we faw not one of the cliffs which Mrs. Piozzi 
 has introduced in her Travels, by way of ' ftmile ; 
 nor were there any of her " goats to clamber 
 " among them." 
 
 The 
 
154 A JOURNEY 
 
 The furface of the lower parts of the mountain 
 is either covered with foft mofly turf, and low 
 heath, or broken with rugged and tremendous 
 bogs ; but now we had reached a diftrict entirely 
 overfpread with (tones, fome lying loofe on the 
 ground, others, the denuded points and protu- 
 berances of vaft and folid rocks, the native body 
 of the hill ; and thefe being almoft as white as 
 the fnow which lay in broad patches among them, 
 gave that general whitenefs to the mountain 
 which attracted our notice from the eminence 
 on the road near Rhyadergowy. 
 
 Here the afcent became more difficult, but it 
 was foon accomplifhed, and we found ourfelves, 
 at once, on the fummit of the mountain, and 
 enveloped in a thick fog, which was utterly im- 
 penetrable : — nor did we feem likely to have the 
 fmalleft chance of obtaining- a view of a fingle 
 object befides a rude pyramid of loofe ftones, 
 which fome induftrious travellers had taken the 
 trouble to pile up on the eaft end of the peak. 
 
 Although the mill feemed to be driving by us 
 with great rapidity, we were Hill involved in 
 " clouds and thick darknefs j ,J and even when 
 this preflure was in fome degree iefTened, and they 
 receded a little from the cap of the mountain, 
 
 we 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 155 
 
 we had yet between us and the nether world, a 
 fea of clouds rolling at our feet, which completely 
 obftructed the profpecl:. 
 
 We could only lament our ill fortune, as many 
 others had done before us, and after fome time 
 fpent in unavailing murmurs, we defcended the 
 hill, and returned to the fhepherd's cottage. 
 
 The infide of this hut was a melancholy fpeci- 
 men of poverty, filth, and idlenefs, there being 
 fcarcely a pane of glafs in the fmall window, 
 which, if entire, would have admitted only a few 
 rays of light ; — not a chair to fit on, — nor, in 
 fhort, one fingle comfort to cheer the wretched 
 exigence of its miferable inhabitants. 
 
 A fire of turf, indeed, there was, which near- 
 ly produced fuffocation ; but fuch a piclure of 
 wretchednefs I fcarcely ever beheld. And yet, 
 this man mould not be accounted poor, for he 
 told me he had more than a hundred fheep on 
 the mountains, and no rent to pay. 
 
 He peftered us with queftions about the war 
 and public affairs, which naturally excited our 
 furprife; for, in this remote fituation, and ap- 
 parently exempt from thofe burdens whofe pref- 
 fure on the inhabitants of the county in general, 
 compels them to turn their thoughts to thefe 
 
 fubjecls, 
 
1$6 A JOURNEY 
 
 fubjects, we could not conceive bow he mould 
 be much interefted about them, till he told us, 
 with tears in his eyes, that his eldeft fon, the 
 pride of his hopes, and the comfort of his de- 
 clining years, had been feduced from his home, 
 by the flattering temptation of a large bounty, 
 offered him by a recruiting ferjeant ; enlifted, and 
 fhipped off to the Weft Indies about two years 
 ago ; — fince which time he had never heard whe- 
 ther he was ftill alive, in the glittering chains of 
 military bondage, or had fallen a victim to the 
 deftructive ravages of the fever by which fo 
 many of his unfortunate comrades had pe- 
 rifhed. 
 
 " He was," faid the old man, " always a very 
 <c dutiful lad till he enlifted, and my heart bleeds 
 " to think what my poor boy may be expofed 
 * c to in a foreign country, and without one pity- 
 " ing friend to aiTift him." 
 
 This moving tale, told with all the unaffected 
 fimplicity of truth, made a ftrong impreffion. 
 
 Accurfed war ! offspring of ambition ! the 
 fcourge of nations ! and the violator of harmony 
 and love ! .^ *# 
 
 When (hall the joys of tranquillity and peace 
 
 revifit our; land ? When fhall the murdering 
 
 15 fword 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 57 
 
 fword be fheathed, and the horrors of its fan- 
 guinary vengeance forgotten ? 
 
 Alas ! the memory of thy calamities will en- 
 dure to diftant ages ; for what can wipe away 
 the melancholy remembrance of the bell hopes 
 of families cut off, — the fole fupporters of aged 
 parents torn from their cottages, — the feparation 
 of fathers from children, — and the diffolution of 
 the Hill ftronger bonds of conjugal affection and 
 endearment. 
 
 Thefe are fufFerings not to be recompenfed 
 by all the glory and'fplendour of victorious tri- 
 umphs. 
 
 The furviving conquerors may indeed, when 
 proudly exulting in their fucceffes, vouchfafe a 
 figh to the memory of the brave men who have 
 fought under their banners, and perifhed in the 
 day of battle. 
 
 " The tendered tears which fall for the de- 
 " parted," may be " thofe with which Heaven 
 << bedews the unburied head of a foldier ;" but 
 can thefe mitigate the forrows of the parent, the 
 widow, or the orphan? Can thefe compenfate 
 for the days, and months, and years of pain, 
 anxiety, and diftrefs, which have been their 
 wretched portion ? will the exulting plaudits of 
 
 feftive 
 
I58 A JOURNEY 
 
 feftive celebration delight thofe ears which have 
 been fo long fhut to every found, but the voice 
 of mourning? Or fhall gaudy pageants pleafe 
 that eye which opens only to ftream with forrow, 
 and to contemplate misfortune. By thefe the 
 glad tidings of Peace itfelf will be heard with di- 
 miniflied rapture, for its bleffings, though long 
 and ardently defired, arrive too late. The ten- 
 der partner, whofe prefence would have given 
 a zed to the joyful event, returns no more ! he 
 lies unburied on a far diftant coaft, or is over, 
 whelmed in the great abyfs ! He blefTes not again 
 the arms of his dearefl relatives, but is become 
 * c the kindred of corruption. " The victor's orna- 
 ments were prepared for him, and the couch of 
 repofe was provided ; but the cold earth is now 
 his pillow, and he ileeps on the bed of death. 
 
 " O ! grant it heaven, that our long woes may ceafe, 
 * f And Britain's daughters tafte the calm of peace ; 
 ♦*" Sons, brothers, hufbands, to bewail no more, 
 " Tortur'd at home, or havock'd in the war/' 
 
 " O lovely Peace! with plenty crowned, 
 
 tl Come fried thy bleffings all around; 
 
 " Let fleecy flocks the hills adorn, 
 
 *' And vallies fmile with wavy corn : 
 
 Let 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I59 
 
 * ( Let the flirill trumpet ceafe, nor other found 
 sc But nature's fongfters wake the cheerful morn." 
 
 We returned to the Hafod Arms, flept there 
 the following night, and the next day proceeded 
 to Aberyjlwitb, 
 
100 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Road from Pont-y-Mynach to Aberyjlwith. — Aberyjlivith Caf<* 
 tie. — The RhyddoL — Sun Jetting* — Aberarth. — French Ik* 
 vafion. 
 
 The diflance from the Hafod-Arms to Aberyjl* 
 with, is twelve miles. 
 
 The road afcends feverai high hills, and pre- 
 fents various interefting profpects of a mountain- 
 ous country on the left. 
 
 About three miles from the Devil's Bridge the 
 fea makes its firft appearance, and becomes an 
 occafional feature in the picture which is pre* 
 fented from the fummit of the hills we afterwards 
 pa!Ted. 
 
 A valley on the right is full of cultivated fields, 
 and adorned with the meanders of the Rhyddol> 
 which may be traced for four or five miles. The 
 ilream is of a handfome breadth, and bordered 
 with farms and cottages. 
 
 The eye darts acrofs part of the great bay of 
 Cardigan, catches a diftant view of the precipi- 
 tous 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. \6l 
 
 tous mountain of Cader Idris, and reds on the 
 abrupt fummits of the Merionythjhire hills. 
 
 A bridge of four arches is feen over the Rhyd* 
 dot, at about a mile from its influx to the fea ; 
 and not far from it is a ruinous building, which 
 appears to have enclofed a fquare area ; and has 
 (till remaining a large tower at one of the angles. 
 The name of this fortification is pronounced 
 Place-crug. 
 
 On the oppofite fide of the river is the town 
 of Llanbadern-vawr, with its ancient church, 
 formerly a cathedral. 
 
 Aber fignifying, in the Britijh language, the 
 mouth of a river : the town of Aberyjiwith ought 
 rather to have been called Aber-rhyddol, both be« 
 caufe the Rhyddol difembogues itfelf into the fea 
 at this place, as well as the TJlwith ; and alfo, 
 that it is the larger of the two ftreams. , 
 
 An elegant flone bridge is building at the en- 
 trance of the town, the houfes of which begin to 
 attract a traveller's notice, at about two miles 
 diltant. 
 
 The ftreets of Aberyjiwith are irregularly built, 
 and the Hated roofs of the houfes appear remark- 
 ably clumfy. If is, however, a pretty large 
 M town, 
 
\6l A JOURNEY 
 
 town, and is much reforted to, for the purpofe 
 of fea-bathing. 
 
 The caftle, which was the refidence of Cad* 
 walader^ Lord of Cardigan, (who was cruelly- 
 murdered by an Englijh efcort, on his return 
 from the court of Henry the fecond,) (lands on 
 the eaft fide of the town, elevated on a rock, 
 whofe foot is waflied by the fea. 
 
 The tottering remains of this once magnificent 
 and formidable building, conftitute a piclurefque 
 ruin ; and proudly afTert their right to the ho- 
 nours of high and refpeclable antiquity. 
 
 The ditch which formerly defended the caftle 
 on the fide towards the town, may be (till traced ; 
 but it is difficult to fay what might have been 
 the original form of the works. Part of the 
 wall of a round tower, at the fouth-weft angle, 
 is (till (landing, but (hivered in a mod awful 
 manner. 
 
 " What art thou, Grandeur! with thy flatt'nng- train 
 
 " Of pompous lies, and boaftful promifes ? 
 
 " Where are they now, and what 's their mighty fum I 
 
 6i All, all are vanifh'd ! like the fleeting forms, 
 
 " Drawn in an evening cloud. Nought now remains, 
 
 " Save thefe fad relics of departed pomp, 
 
 " Thefe fpoils of time, a monumental pile ! 
 
 <' Which, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. l6$ 
 
 ci "Which, to the vain, its mournful tale relates, 
 " And warns them not to truft to tranfient dreams." 
 
 The mafTive fragments which are feathered 
 over the area, have a noble effect ; and a gravel 
 walk has been made among the ruins by Uvedale 
 Price Efq. the proprietor of a whimfical caitel- 
 lated man (ion near the (pot, and author of an in- 
 genious "Effayon the Piclurefque." 
 
 On the north-weft is part of a tower, about 
 forty feet high, and the arched door-way, or 
 paffage through it, is (till preferved ; as is alfo 
 a large fragment of a great round tower, in which 
 the mark of an arched gate, feveral windows, 
 and fire places, are frill vifible. Another tower 
 has been repaired, and converted into a profpecl 
 room, which commands a view of the fea, and 
 its fine bold fhore,. as far as the northern horn 
 of the bay of Cardigan. 
 
 Every attempt to plant this interefling fpot, 
 has been hitherto unfuccefsful ; the violence of 
 the winds, and the faline breezes, being highly 
 injurious to vegetation. 
 
 Near the entrance to the caftle, and on its 
 eaftern fide, is the church, or rather chapel ; a 
 modern edifice, deftitute of a fpire, and very 
 meanly built. 
 
 Ma A very 
 
164. A JOURNEY 
 
 A very fiovenly mafonry is, indeed generally 
 prevalent, and the roofs of many of the houfes 
 are daubed all over with plafler, which gives 
 them a difgufting appearance. 
 
 The market houfe, in the middle of the town, 
 iSj however, handfomely built, and has fafh win- 
 dows in the upper ftory, and iron gates below. 
 
 Leaving Aberyftwith, and having the fea on 
 our right, we afcended a hill, where . the marks 
 of the plough befpeak an increafing induftry. 
 Soon afterwards crofled the Tftwith, by a ro- 
 mantic bridge, half covered with ivy. 
 
 Near this part of the road formerly flood a 
 druidical altar. The upright flones only remain, 
 the top, or altar covering, having been ( I had 
 almoft faid facrilegioufly) deilroyed, by the more 
 than gothic barbarity of fome ignorant, or cove- 
 tous perfon, who wanted to make ufe of it, in 
 building a liable. 
 
 ParTed a village only remarkable for having a 
 church, with a chancel and tower. 
 
 The places of worlhip which I had lately feen 
 in this part of the country, excepting the old 
 church at Llanbadern vawr, are generally cover- 
 ed with one roof, and the bell is placed in a kind 
 of open turret, or cupola, on the weft end. 
 
 Here 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 65 
 
 Here are two bells, hung in the accuftomed 
 manner ; but the turret (lands on the eaft, in- 
 ilead of the weft end of the body of the church ; 
 and contiguous to the chancel. The tower bears 
 the appearance of great antiquity : it is fquare, 
 with the fummit abruptly broken off, and with- 
 out battlements ; the bafis being conMderably 
 larger than the upper part, which deviation from 
 the ufual ftyle occurs alfo in the very old church 
 of St. Peter, at Oxford, founded fo early as the 
 year 886. 
 
 The church and chancel, agreeable to the 
 fafhion of this part of the country, are complete- 
 ly white-walhed over, even to the very roof; but 
 the tower has been fuffered to retain its .original, 
 and more venerable appearance. This edifice is 
 fituated on a piece of flat ground, between two 
 mountainous eminences, near the fea-fhore. 
 
 The road, afterwards, palling over marfhy 
 ground, has been with great difficulty rendered 
 firm , and the efforts uled for that purpofe have 
 made it highly unpleafant to the traveller ; for 
 it is literally paved with rough ftones, and re- 
 fembles fome of thofe break-neck ftreets, which 
 occafionally difgrace a country town. 
 
 M3 We 
 
l66 • A JOURNEY 
 
 We had a lofty mountain on the left, and fer- 
 tile well-cultivated fields on the oppofite fide, be- 
 tween the road and the fea. 
 
 Another village foon offered itfelf to our no- 
 tice, whofe church Handing near enough to the 
 fea-iide for a land mark, has its tower more ap- 
 propriately white-warned. 
 
 The fun darted on us his parting rays, and I 
 once more faw that glorious luminary fink into 
 the ocean, gilding both waves and clouds with 
 the moil ftriking and beautiful colours. 
 
 " Behold, quhow Phehus downcaft dois difcend, 
 *' Toward his palice in the Occident ! '* 
 
 *' Low walks the fun, and broadens by degrees, 
 * e JVjfft o'er the verge of day. The (hifting clouds 
 " Affembied gay, .a richly gorgeous train, 
 " In all their pomp attend his fetting throne ; 
 " Air, earth, and ocean fmile immenfe. And now, 
 " As if his weary chariot fought the bowers 
 (( Of Jmphitrite, and her tending nymphs, 
 " (So Grecian fable fung) he dips his orb ; 
 «* Now half immers'd, and now a golden curve, 
 ii Gives one bright glance, then total difappears. 5 * 
 
 We had yet more hills to climb up, and to 
 defcend, before we reached Aberayron, the place 
 where we defigned to fleep \ and rode through 
 
 the 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 167 
 
 the village of Aberarth, which was the neateft, 
 moft rural, and interefting I faw in Wales. The 
 cottages are placed in the fimpleft ftyle of irre- 
 gularity which can be imagined. They are all 
 accurately clean, built with ftone, and not like 
 Welch cottages in general, covered with turf, but 
 with the fmootheft thatch, remarkably well laid 
 on : and I could not help thinking of the defcrip- 
 tion of the village of Brock, in Holland, given by 
 Madame Genlis, in her letters : — " The orna- 
 " menting their houfes is the greateft plea- 
 " fure which they know ; the living in peace 
 " and union with each other, the only happi- 
 " nefs of which they can form an idea. 
 
 " This village offers a picture, which I have 
 cc not feen any where elfe \ for it has not a fin- 
 " gle made : there is not one difagreeable or 
 " unhappy object to fpoil it ; not a (ingle crip- 
 fi pie ; not an infirm old perfon ; not a houfe 
 " that feems to want repair. 
 
 " Good health, the little comforts of eafy cir- 
 " cumftances, the elegancies of induftry and 
 " neatnefs, fimplicity, fincerity, virtue, and 
 " happinefs ; thefe are the bleffings and the 
 iC . images." 
 
 M4 The 
 
I 63 A JOURNEY 
 
 The .women throughout the northern part of 
 Cardigan/hire, were dreffed in blue jackets, with 
 petticoats of the fame colour ; and fometimes 
 the addition of a blue rug, over the (houlders. 
 About the middle of the county, their appear- 
 ance began to vary. The blue mantle gave place 
 to white ; and in a few inftances to red ones : 
 and as we approached nearer the town of Car- 
 digan, the number of the former dimimfhed, and 
 the latter increafed. 
 
 In the vicinity of Aberarth we faw fome of the 
 worded, of which thefe mantles are made, juft 
 after it had undergone the procefs of dying. 
 
 It is to the lingular appearance of the females 
 of this country, thus adorned, that they afcribe 
 the fudden panic with which the French invaders 
 were (truck, when they had effe&ed a landing at 
 Fifpguard Bay. M. Tate, who, with a handful 
 of men, was bold enough to expofe himfeJf and 
 his feeble train to certain and inevitable dellruc- 
 tion, and audacious enough to fuppofe himfelf 
 caoable of holding, or at lead of atTuming a pod 
 to which the difajfecled might refort, and where 
 they might make a (land, till frefh afMance and 
 additional fuccours could arrive from France, 
 {laving gained the fummit of a lofty eminence 
 
 near 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 169 
 
 near Fiftiguard, was aftonimed at the military 
 appearance of the oppofite hill, which he foon 
 beheld covered, as he thought, with foldiers, 
 but who were, in fact, only a hod of Wekh wo- 
 men, prompted, fome by courage, fome by Cu- 
 liofitv, and others by apprehenfion, to recon- 
 noitre the enemy ; but thefe Cambrian Amazons 
 having on their red mantles, (Iruck a terror into 
 the French^ whofe general immediately waited on 
 Lord Cawdor, commanding officer of the mill-* 
 tary force Rationed neareft to the fpot, and fur- 
 rendered himfelf a prifoner at difcretion. 
 
I/O A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Aterayron.— Llangronog JVe<w Inn.-—Cajiellyn DoUg.~— Car- 
 digan. — The Bridge.-— The Cajlle — and the Market. 
 
 The inn called Aberayron is a fmall but excel- 
 lent houfe of accommodation, kept by a very in- 
 telligent perfon, to whom I am indebted for an 
 mterefting and circumfiantial account of many 
 of the fcenes to be met with in Wales. 
 
 The road to Cardigan^ from which this place 
 is twenty-two miles diftant, after paffing one 
 high hill, which prefents a pleafing view of the 
 £ea, with a retrofpecl along the coall of Cardigan 
 Bay, to the town of Aberyftwithy becomes dull 
 and uninterefting. 
 
 From another hill there is a fecond view of 
 the bay, which was the only object worthy of 
 notice, till we arrived at Llangronog New Inn, 
 about half way from Aberayron tp Cardigan. 
 
 The country here is in general cultivated, and 
 the tuif banks which feparate the fields, are top- 
 ped with thin hedge-rows. 
 
 Cq/iell yn Do 'ig is about two miles farther on ; 
 it is evidently the remains of a Britifh encamp- 
 ment, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 171 
 
 ment, of very large fize. The exact form can 
 not, at this time, be afcertained, the embank- 
 ments having been deftroyed in feveral places, 
 and the area eroded and interfered by the turf 
 enclofures of the fields. 
 
 The turnpike road paries over the fouthem 
 fide of this fortification, and the changes which 
 are perpetually making in the furface of the 
 ground, will foon wear out every trace of its 
 original lineaments. The fpot may, however, con- 
 tinue to be marked, fo long as a clump of fir 
 trees (hall remain, which have been planted 
 within the outer vallum. 
 
 There is alfo another, but fmalier encamp- 
 ment, clofe to the fide of the road, from which 
 we again enjoyed a view of the fea. 
 
 *' O ! Ocean ! thou guardian and friend to mankind, 
 •• To the beft of thy favours, how many are blind! 
 " The merchant, who cares but to live by himfelf, 
 M Extols thee for floating home coffers of pelf. 
 " The alderman pours out his thanks to his God, 
 •• Who flock'd thee with falmon with turbot and cod : 
 " The fcnolar who knows not the bleffings of home, 
 '< Sings thy waves fo tranfporting, which grant him to 
 
 " roam, 
 (t And mew him old Peloponnefus, at Rome, 
 ** Which lead him to climes, fam'd for Pompeys and Neros, 
 i( And bring him to plains trod by confuls and heroes ; 
 
 « While 
 
 i: 
 
 i 
 
I7'2 A JOURNEY 
 
 *< While philofophers poring from* midnight to noon, 
 " Make us ftare with their tales of thy jig to the moon." 
 
 Near Cardigan we had a pleafing profpect of 
 the rich and fertile valley, through which the 
 noble Teivy winds its romantic courfe. 
 
 At the entrance of the town is the county gaol, 
 a ftone building, clofe to the road. The flreets 
 are indifferently well built, and there is a good 
 market houfe, and a town hall over it, fupport- 
 ed by arches. 
 
 The beft view of Cardigan is from the fouthern 
 bank of the Teivy 9 on which I took my ftand 
 juft at fun fetting. On my left was a fine old 
 bridge of five arches, with ftrong angular pro- 
 jecting piers; contiguous to it are the ruinous 
 walls and towers of the ancient caftle, mantled 
 with ivy, (landing on the very brink of the ri- 
 ver : and the town of Cardigan, with its modern 
 built and {lately prifon. On the eaft a large and 
 venerable church, elevated on a rock, and fur- 
 rounded by luxuriant elms, was a fine addition 
 to the delightful fcene. 
 
 A fw^lling hill, behind which the fun had juft 
 declined, bounds the profpeft on the weft ; as 
 
 « does 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. I 73 
 
 does a bold eminence on the eaft, at about the 
 diftance of two miles. 
 
 The river, of a noble breadth, placid as the 
 gentle zephyrs which played around us, was 
 fcarcely perceived to flow ; and reflected on its 
 dill and polifhed furface all the objects which I 
 have enumerated, with the glowing tints left 011 
 the clouds by the fetting fun, the fmall craft 
 below the bridge, and its own well-wooded 
 banks. 
 
 In fhort, I never yet faw a confined landfcape 
 poflefTed of more ftriking beauties, or better 
 adapted for the pencil. It is, however, much 
 to be wifhed, that the cuftom fo prevalent in 
 this part of the country, of white- warning the 
 roofs as well as fi de-walls of the houfes, were 
 abolifhed : it offends the eye by a glare highly 
 unpleafant ; deflroys the harmony of the picture, 
 and, if I may be allowed the expreffion, impo- 
 verifhes the profpect. 
 
 Why it fhould fo happen, I can not pofiibly 
 fay ; but all the inhabitants of the fea coafls feems 
 to entertain the fame tafle, with refpect to archi- 
 tecture and building. 
 
 The inhabitants of Plymouth, Stonehoufe, and 
 the neighbouring places on the coafi of Devon* 
 
 Jhire, 
 
174 A JOURNEY 
 
 Jhire, all adopt the fame hideous cuftom of white- 
 warning, which is only admiflible when applied 
 to fingle cottages, in detached fituations ; and 
 where they are contrafted with a great extent of 
 green, in the neighbouring fields, downs, or 
 fore ft. 
 
 Cardigan is called by the Welch, Aberteivy. 
 The caftle, whofe remains are now inconfider- 
 able, was once a very fpacious building. It is 
 mentioned as early as 1 105, when Robert, Duke 
 of Normandy, fecond fon of William the Conque- 
 ror, was irnprifoned in it, after his defeat by his 
 brother, King Henry the firft ; who barbarouily 
 caufed his eyes to be put out, for having at- 
 tempted his efcape. 
 
 It was in this building that Rhys ap Gryffydh, 
 Prince of South Wales, made a great feaft, to 
 which all the bards of the principality were in- 
 vited, in order to exercife their feveral talents. 
 The harmony has been long forgotten, and a 
 fcene of melancholy defolation has fucceeded. 
 
 " No more the manfion of delight, 
 " Cynddylan's hall Is dark to-night ; 
 " Nor more the midnight hour prolongs, 
 " With fires, and lamps, and feftive fongs, 
 w Its trembling bards afflicted mun, 
 (i The hall bereay'd of C$ndr<wyrC$ fon ! 
 
 « Its 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 175 
 
 <c Its joyous viiitants are fled, 
 
 " Its hofpitable fires arc dead ; 
 
 " No longer rang'd on either hand, 
 
 " Its dormitory couches (land : 
 
 " But all above, around, below, 
 
 " Dread fighs, dire founds, and fliricks of woe." 
 
 In the morning, when we came down ftairs, 
 at the inn, I was rather furprifed to find a Welch 
 maid, bufily employed in varnifhing the doors 
 with bloody a procefs which I underftood is fre- 
 quently repeated. 
 
 As I do not at all. know the origin or utility 
 of this practice, but as I do know the Welch to 
 be obftinate cherifhers of fuperftition, I could not 
 help thinking it had fome myftery, which is yet 
 to be explained ; for when I began to afk ques- 
 tions about hv the girl, who was engaged in this 
 extraordinary employment, ran away. in a great 
 hurry. I mention the cir cum (lance, however, 
 becaufe " local cuftoms and ufages are generally 
 <c founded on fome ancient fact, and ferve to 
 " guide us back to truth ; and as aids to tradi- 
 *" tion, are its moil faithful interpreters." 
 
 It was market day ; and by nine o'clock the 
 ilreets were full of people ; of whom, by far the 
 greater number were females. 
 
 5 The 
 
Ij6 A JOURNEY 
 
 ' The commodities expofed for fale, befides farn- 
 ples of grain, very fparingly produced, were fowls 
 at a great age ; chickens, about the fize of pi- 
 geons ; butter, eggs, a few ducks, and fome ve- 
 getables. But the fight which appeared to me 
 the mod extraordinary was, the abundant quan- 
 tity of veal, which is brought hither, in whole 
 carcafes, reeking from the knife. 
 
 I reckoned more than forty calves lying in the 
 ftreets, with the frefh and gory wound in their 
 necks ; and while the butchers were waiting for 
 cuflomers at their Halls, they employed them- 
 felves in flaying and dr effing their veal. 
 
 I did not hear any particular reafon affigned 
 for their bringing the carcafes with the fkin on ; 
 but conjecture that it may be to fave trouble, as 
 well as time ; for it would be extremely difficult, 
 in this mountainous country, for the butchers 
 to convey fo many calves, when cut out in joints, 
 and ready for fale, to the markets, on account of 
 their bulk : but when covered with the fkin, they 
 can bundle them up in almoft any^fhape, and 
 fatten them on their horfes in almoft any man- 
 ner. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 77 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 RoadtoNcwcqflle* — River Tehy. — Ancient Cqftle. — Approach 
 to Carmarthen* 
 
 The road from Cardigan to Newcqftle, after 
 palling a kind of caufeway, raifed by the fide of 
 the Teivy, afcends a hill near the feat of Owen 
 Lloyd, Efq. a gentleman of very ancient family, 
 and great refpec~lability. 
 
 The country around is generally enclofed, 
 and the profpect is rendered dreary by the want 
 of trees. 
 
 At fome diftance, on the right, are the feat 
 and iron-works of Sir Benjamin Hammet, and 
 further on, a handfome houfe, embowered 
 among plantations. 
 
 The fouth-eaft wind blew very cold over the 
 hills, and made the afpecl of the Carmarthen- 
 Jhire mountains the more bleak : but the fcene 
 fuddenly varied, and after obtaining a tranfient 
 glimpfe of a handfome white houfe in a valley, 
 on the right, we afcended the fide of a bold emi- 
 nence 5 and palling under the fhelter of fome 
 N romantic 
 
tyt A JOURNEY 
 
 romantic rocks, crofTed two bridges, the Iaft of 
 which, Pont y Currie, is erected over a broad 
 and rapid ftream, which foon unites with the 
 beautiful Teivy, whofe meandering courfe, 
 among fmall enclofures and verdant meadows, 
 is again feen on the right. 
 
 The view of Newcqftk, with the ruins of the 
 ancient fortrefs, whence it derives its name, 
 Handing on the banks of the Teivy, becomes 
 every moment more and more interefting, till 
 we at length enter the town, which is fmall and 
 irregular. 
 
 There is an old bridge over the Teivy, and 
 on the eaft fide a fmall church, near the pic- 
 turefque ruins of the caftle. 
 
 The Teivy (which flows into the valley, from 
 the eaft), when it arrives near this place, makes 
 an abrupt turn, as it were, back again, and 
 forms a fort of peninfula, on which the caftle is 
 fituated, with a beautiful meadow between it and 
 the river \ and then turning again to the weft, 
 rolls through a rocky channel, and under the 
 bridge before mentioned. 
 
 The caftle appears highly venerable in its 
 ruins ; for having been conftrucled of the flate- 
 ftone, fo abundant in thefe parts, all the win- 
 dows, door-ways, and other apertures, are 
 
 fringed 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 179 
 
 fringed by the roughnefs of the thin layers 
 which compofe the walls. 
 
 The principal entrance is by an arch, at lead* 
 twelve feet high, placed between two oclagon 
 towers, perfectly correfpondent in fize and ap- 
 pearance ; and with two windows remaining in 
 each. 
 
 On the right is a fquare tower, with fome win- 
 dows and a door-way ; and the fhape of the whole 
 fortrefs (which feems to have been very regular) 
 may be traced without difficulty. 
 
 Its origin is undoubtedly of great antiquity ; 
 but the building feems to have affumed its pre- 
 fent form, as well as its name, in the reign of 
 Henry the feventh : when it was repaired by Rhys 
 ap Thomas ^ a partizan of that monarch, when 
 Earl of Richmond ; who, on coming to the crown, 
 made him a knight of the garter. 
 
 Some gold and filver coins have been difco- 
 vered at different times ; but I heard of none 
 now remaining in the neighbourhood. 
 
 A fword was alfo faid to be in the pofTefiion of 
 a farmer, near this place ; and we were induced 
 to pay him a vifit, in order to obtain a fight 
 of it. 
 
 N2 On 
 
"I 8bf. A JOURNEY 
 
 On our arrival, however, he had only to flie# 
 us a highlander's broad-fword, of the ufual form,, 
 which was given to his great grand -father, by 
 one of the royalifls, at the garrifon of Newcajlle y 
 in the civil wars, in return for fome provifions 
 with which he had furnifhed the troops there. 
 
 The man feerned very proud of this valuable 
 relic, and boafted not a little of the, pains which 
 he faid he had taken to keep it bright j but he 
 was not able to afford me the fmaileft degree of 
 fatisfa&ion refpe&ing the hiftory of the caftle, 
 excepting that he had once heard it belonged to 
 an Earl of Carberry. 
 
 I prefume this was Richard, Earl of Carberry y 
 who had a feat at Golden Grove, in Carmarthen" 
 Jhire, where his lordfhip generouily foftered the 
 pious and loyal Bifhop Taylor, during- the rebel- 
 lion. The fame nobleman, when he afterwards 
 became lord prefident of the marches of Wales , 
 patronized Butler, the author of Hudibras. 
 
 Crofiing a few fields from the farm houfe, we 
 afcended a high mountain, which afforded an 
 agreeable profpect of the town, the river, the 
 caftle, and the valley. 
 
 The Telvy yields abundance of trout \ and the 
 falmon found in it is famous throughout all 
 
 Wales?. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. l8l 
 
 Wales, where it is preferred to that of the 
 Severn. 
 
 The range of mountains which we were now 
 to pafs over, was covered with heath "and bogs ; 
 but the extent of their fummits is fo considerable, 
 that we had none of thofe bold precipices and 
 abrupt declivities, which fo romantically orna- 
 ment the fcenery in Cardigan/hire, 
 
 The view is very extenfive, and the line by 
 which it is bounded is fo bold, that it indeed de- 
 ferves to be called a line of beauty : but the eye 
 refls too much on the dark heath ; and the bleak- 
 nefs of the fituation -rendered the journey over 
 thefe eminences fatiguing and unpleafant. 
 
 Though the diftance to Carmarthen is twenty 
 miles, no particular objecls worth mentioning 
 are prefented, until you have accomplifhed more 
 than twelve of them, when a noble eminence fud- 
 denly difplays an interefting view of a rich val- 
 ley, bounded by the Glanwrgaufhire hills ; the 
 town of Kidwelley lying near the fea-fide, and 
 the fine arm, or flreight, which receives the ri- 
 ver Towey. 
 
 Further on we met with an incredible number 
 
 of young perfons of both fexes, chiefly farmers* 
 
 fervants, and many of them without either fhoes 
 
 N 3 or 
 
I 82 A JOURNEY 
 
 or (lockings, though indifferently dreffed after 
 the fafhion of the country, who were returning 
 from the market at Carmarthen, which, at this 
 feafon of the year, is very fully attended ; but 
 were not gratified with any view of the town, 
 until we had nearly approached it ; and then, 
 although it feems of confiderable ilze, it does 
 not appear to any great advantage. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1 83 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Carmarthen. —Bridge. — CaJIle — Rejections* — "The Church* — 
 Merlin. 
 
 Carmarthen frands in a vallev, fheltered on 
 the north by high and mountainous eminences ; 
 and is fituated as to the Towey, precifely in the 
 fame manner as Cardigan is to the Teivy. 
 
 The latter, however, is by far the mod noble 
 river in breadth, and in the elegance of its banks; 
 but the former poffeffes beauties, which perhaps 
 compenfate for the want of thofe advantages. 
 
 It meanders more agreeably, and the eye com* 
 mands its courfe for miles : whereas the Teivy 
 has fcarcely paffed the bridge at Cardigan be- 
 fore it difappears, and the firft winding in its 
 courfe hides it from the fpeclator's eye for ever. 
 
 The bridge at Carmarthen is of a commodious 
 breadth, a circumftance very feldom paralleled 
 in old bridges : it has fix arches, befides four or 
 five in the parapet at the fouth end, to allow the 
 water to pafs, in time of flood, when the mea- 
 <Jows are frequently overflowed. 
 
 N 4 The 
 
184 A JOURNEY 
 
 The caftle once commanded the bridge, and 
 protected the town, on the fouth fide, oppofmg 
 its formidable and maffive towers to this pafs of 
 the river : but it no longer threatens hoflility, 
 being now reduced to a (late of utter ruin. 
 
 The period of its erection is uncertain: it 
 might probably, however, have been built in 
 the reign of the firft William ; and it is certain, 
 that it has been expofed to frequent aifaults from 
 Griffith ap Rhys, Prince of South Wales, and 
 others. 
 
 The county gaol occupies part of the fite, 
 and its entrance is handfomely built of hewn 
 lione, with iron gratings ; and over the door are 
 the horrid, but appropriate decorations of im- 
 menfe chains and fetters. 
 
 A row of very mean houfes (lands on the fouth 
 fide, and within the area of the old caftle, the 
 miferable abode of penury and wretchednefs, — a 
 change great and awful ! 
 
 The proud lord, whofe very menials (hone in 
 the gaudy trappings of fplendid pomp, reclined 
 himfelf within thefe walls. The gilded couch 
 was perfumed to receive him ; the minftrel at- 
 tuned the harp to " founds of fweeteft melody j M 
 and all the foft contrivances of eafe and luxury 
 
 await 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 185 
 
 await his ilumbers, and invite him to repofe. 
 cs Here he praifed the trembling lyre, and liftened 
 <c to the fongs of heroes !" 
 
 Where now are thefe delights ? Where now 
 are thefe " appliances ?" The half ftarved men- 
 dicant, and needy cottager extend their rigid or 
 enfeebled limbs, on the fqualid bed of mifery 
 and indigence : the whittling wind is the difmal 
 mufic of their midnight hour ; and the flraw 
 pallet, or the rufhy bed, the place of their re- 
 pofe. 
 
 The gay delights, the feftive merriment, the 
 fplendid pageantry, are fled for ever 1 
 
 The mighty warrior, proudly indignant of 
 affronts, and fcarcely fubmitting to the pre-emi- 
 nence of kingly power, here quartered the arms 
 of liberty, with thofe of courage j and native 
 freedom fhone in every action. 
 
 The fcene is now reverfed : the captive in the 
 dreary dungeon, loaded with fetters, and op- 
 preffed with chains, is doomed in fiient folitude 
 to expiate his crimes ; or finks the miferable vic- 
 tim of obdurate creditors, torn from the kindred 
 arms of love and duty, by the relentlefs violence 
 of thofe to whom the tender mercies of the law 
 have yielded him a facrifice. 
 
 The 
 
100 A JOURNEY 
 
 The church is large, but wants the venerable 
 ornament of 
 
 i( Storied windows richly dight> 
 " Shedding a dim religious light." 
 
 All the folemnity of its appearance having been 
 deftroyed by the introduction of faihes, among 
 other decorations equally abfurd and incon- 
 fiftent. 
 
 The quaint expreffion made ufe of in the 
 above couplet is generally underfiood to fignify 
 no more than decked or bedizened : it is, how- 
 ever, remarkable, that one Walter Dight was 
 the author of an old work, on the mode of or- 
 namenting windows. 
 
 The county hall is certainly an honour to 
 the town ; but there are very few other build- 
 ings at all ftriking or elegant: 1 and in a place 
 efteemed the capital of South Wales, we really ex- 
 pected cleaner inns, and more convenient accom- 
 modations. 
 
 The cuftom of intermixing their coal with 
 clay, which prevails throughout the country, ren- 
 ders the houfes almoft intollerable to thofe who 
 have not been ufed to it. Coal is not dear ; but 
 ceconomy is one of the mo ft general traits in the 
 Welch character ; and as the fire-balls (as they 
 
 call 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 187 
 
 call them) are ftill cheaper than coal alone, peo- 
 ple fwallow the naufeous fmoke very patiently, 
 and fubmit to almofl fuffocation for the benefit 
 of their pocket. 
 
 On the eaft fide of the town, not far from 
 the Towey, are the remains of a monadic build- 
 ing of confiderable extent. 
 
 Carmarthen was the birth-place of Merlin, 
 whofe name is ftill attached to a grove, near the 
 banks of the river ; to which fpot he ufed fre- 
 quently to retire, and whence his prophetic dif- 
 clofures were iiTued, with the greater and more 
 imprelTive folemnity. — Merlin was born A. D. 
 480. 
 
l8S A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Abergiv'illy. — Coracles. — Line of Beauty. —Dinevaivr Cq/ik. — 
 And Park. — Its ancient and prefent fate.— Improvements 
 fuggefed. — Remarks. 
 
 Leaving Carmarthen we paMed a neat villa, 
 agreeably fituated on a riling ground, which com- 
 mands a view of the river Towey, and the fine 
 meadows through which it flows. 
 
 A long bridge conducted us to the little town 
 of Abergwilly, which is full of public houfes, and 
 remarkable only for that circumftance, and the 
 refidence of the bifhop of St. David's, whofe 
 palace is a fpacious but inelegant building, at the 
 eaft end of the village. _ 
 
 The hills which flielter the road on the left, 
 are bold and (hiking, and the courfe of the river 
 is truly beautiful, rolling through rich meadows, 
 or betv/een well wooded Hopes. 
 
 At Abergwllly we faw many of the coracles 
 defcribed by Mr. Wyndham, Mr. Warrington, and 
 other authors from Giraldus Cambrenfis (who 
 wrote a defcription of Wales in the 12th century), 
 
 as 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. l8<) 
 
 as being ufed by the inhabitants of this part of 
 the country for eroding the rivers and fifhing. 
 
 They are made of a fort of wicker or bafket 
 work, and covered with pitched canvas, or a 
 raw hide ; — fo that they are fufficiently light to 
 be removed from place to place with great eafe 
 and celerity; and their appearance is certainly 
 not unlike the fhell of a very large turtle, when 
 viewed at a diftance, as they are difpofed in rows 
 againft the fides of the houfes. 
 
 Thefe coracles have been in ufe without much 
 change in their flru&ure, from a very remote 
 period, as Lucan's defcription of them applies 
 with great exactnefs : 
 
 ** Primum can a falix madefaclo vimine parvam, 
 ** Vertitur in puppim, csefoque indudta juvenco 
 *' Ve&oris patiens, tumidum fuperenatat amnem 
 €t Sic venetus ftagnante pado, fufoque Britannus 
 tf Navigat oceano." &c. 
 
 It was at Abergwilly, where the brave, but 
 unfortunate Llewellyn fubdued his rebellious fub- 
 jecls, headed by Rhun, a Scotfman ; but he lived 
 only a very fhort time to enjoy the tranquillity 
 which his unexampled courage had reftored, 
 being alTaiTmated by the defendants of Howel 
 Lba 9 who had been deprived of their fuccefiion 
 to the throne of South Wales. 
 
 15 A few 
 
19° -A JOURNEY 
 
 A few miles farther on, the fcenery is magn!-» 
 ficently grand,— the hills rife with a fine bold 
 fwell, and the horizon is marked with a waving 
 and flrongly indented line. 
 
 This undulating horizon which is fo juftly ad- 
 mired by every perfon of tafte, as conftituting 
 the true piclurefque line of beauty, is not for- 
 gotten by the poet : 
 
 tl Yon ftream that, wanders down the dale, 
 " The fpiral wood, the winding vale, 
 *' The path which, wrought with human Hull, 
 " Slow twining, climbs yon diftant hill, 
 " With fir invefted — all combine 
 " To recommend the ivavinjr line* 
 
 " The wreathed rod of Bacchus fair, 
 « The ringlets of Apollo's hair, 
 " The wand by Maia's offspring borne, 
 " The fmooth volutes of Amman's horn, 
 *' The ft rupture of the Cyprian dame, 
 i( And each fair female's beauteous frame,. 
 " Shew to the pupils of defign 
 " The triumphs of the waving line" 
 
 An ingenious philofopher has lately fuppofed 
 that the origin of that pleafurable fenfation which 
 the line of beauty conveys to a man of tafte, is- 
 derived from the fymmetry of his mother's bofom;, 
 " which," fays he, " the infant embraces with, 
 <c his hands, prelTes with his lips, and, watches 
 
 " with 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 19* 
 
 cs with his eyes." The thought is pretty, but 
 the idea is furely not correct in its extended fenfe; 
 for who will not be tempted to fmile when the 
 fame author adds, " in our maturer years w T e 
 " feel a glow of delight at foft gradations of 
 " rifing and defcending furface, as in the forms 
 €t of antique vafes 9 which feems to influence all 
 " our fenfes ; and, if the object be not too large, 
 <c w r e experience an attraction to embrace it with 
 <c our arms, and to falute it with our lips, as we 
 " did in our early infancy the bofom of our 
 * c mother :" and indeed one might laugh out- 
 right, if this were true, to fee the grave pro- 
 feffors at Oxford rapturoujly embracing, m their 
 reverend arms, the globes at Chrift- church. 
 
 To purfue my journey — In a field on the right 
 we faw four large upright (tones remaining of a 
 • circle. The ground has been ploughed up, but 
 a confiderable degree of elevation is dill to be 
 traced where was formerly the fite of the ancient 
 enclofure. 
 
 From the hill beyond, we had a charming re- 
 trofpedl of the valley and the river, terminated 
 by the town of Carmarthen ; — the banks of the 
 Towey being every where covered with nodding 
 groves, or bedecked with verdant meads. 
 
 De- 
 
I92 A JOURNEY 
 
 Defcending this hill, we pafTed a bridge, having 
 fome fine eminences on the left, rifmg very grace- 
 fully and cultivated with infinite care and neat- 
 nefs. 
 
 Another bridge is rendered highly pi&urefque 
 by a cafcade, which has been made about fifty 
 yards from it. 
 
 Near it (lands "Drujlwyn caftle, on an emi- 
 nence which commands the courfe of the Tawy 9 
 
 Paxton, or Middleton Hall, one of the bed 
 built, and mod magnificent houfes xnWales, is at 
 fome diftance on the right. 
 
 Approaching the termination of the valley, 
 there appeared a lofty hill, clothed with vene- 
 rable oaks, from the river's brink to its fummit, 
 on which are the maflive ruins of Newton caftle, 
 the once regal feat of the ancient Cambrian mo- 
 narchs. 
 
 The laft prince who inhabited it, was Rhys ap 
 Tezvdyr, an ahceftor of Rice, now Baron Dyne* 
 vor. It was befieged by the forces of King Henry, 
 in the year 1256, which were defeated, with the 
 lofs of two thoufand men, by the brave Llewellyn 9 
 prince of North Wales. 
 
 This monument of ancient fplendour, ftands 
 at the fouth-weftera boundary of a fpacious park, 
 
 adorned 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 93 
 
 adorned with noble plantations, and beautified 
 with the moft agreeable diverfity of fwelling hills, 
 and irriguous valleys, which nature has ever 
 collected within the fame compafs. 
 
 Every thing looks venerable ;— the very wall 
 of the park is covered with mofs and ivy. 
 
 We rung at an ancient gate, and were admit- 
 ted by a pretty little Welch girl, who told us, 
 that although Lord Dynevor's family was not at 
 the caftle, me thought we might obtain permif- 
 fion to fee the grounds. 
 
 Palling a (lately range of oaks, (lamped with 
 the mark of time, having arrived at maturity, 
 at leafl a century ago, a beautiful view ef the 
 valley towards the north prefents itfelf. 
 
 We' then defcended through a rich grove, 
 which flanks the prefent manfion, a ilructure 
 devoid of tafle or elegance, and a great difgrace 
 to the fcenery which furrounds it, as well as to 
 the genius of its architect. 
 
 The building, which is fluccoed all over, is 
 of a fquare form, with a fmali turret projecting 
 at each corner, covered 1 with' a fort of dome. 
 The whole is embattled, : has plain fa(h windows^ 
 and a low door-way. 
 
 O This 
 
194 A JOURNEY 
 
 This edifice is honoured with the title of JDy- 
 nevor caftle, and it is placed under the (helter 
 of three beautiful groves, but commands no prof- 
 peel, excepting that of a bold fwell juft before 
 the principal front, and the tops of a few of the 
 trees which are fcattered about the park in a molt 
 elegant manner. 
 
 On the right, out of the midft of a dark wood, 
 arife the mighty turrets of the ancient caftle,— 
 an object fo venerable in itfelf is fcarcely to be 
 paralleled, — and fo ornamented by the trees 
 which furround it, as fcarcely to be matched for 
 beauty and pi&urefque effect : but neither the 
 ruin, nor its fublime accompaniments, are feen 
 from the modern houfe. 
 
 The undulations of the ground are remarkably 
 beautiful,- — the fine and graceful fwell of the 
 hills, the bold flopes, and the fweeping ridges, 
 which vary this delightful place, exceed in fub- 
 limity, and furpafs in effect, every thing I have 
 feen of the fame nature : and the famed river 
 Towey fecretly meanders around the park, feeling 
 it no difhonour to warn, with tranflucent waves, 
 the foot of the hill which once fuftained the pa- 
 lace of the brave and venerable Rhys ap Tewdyr* 
 
 While 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES I95 
 
 While my mind was divided between the plea- 
 Fure and admiration arifmg from contemplating 
 r he fine old ruin, the rich foliage of the trees, 
 and the verdure of the turf from whence they 
 fpring; and the difguft excited by the clumfy 
 awkwardnefs of the houfe, which is placed in 
 the mod objectionable fpot about the premifes, 
 I looked around to difcover a fituation more fit 
 for the building of a manfion fuitable to the 
 grandeur of the furrounding fcenery, and worthy 
 the defcendants of Cambrian Princes, — thofe 
 mighty names which are the " boaft of heraldry". 
 
 *'. Chiefs grac'd with fears, and prodigal of blood." 
 
 The high-born and illuftrious worthies of an 
 heroic race. 
 
 It was unneceflary to devote much time to this 
 purpofe, for a gentle eminence was immediately 
 before us, which commands an extenfive view of 
 the broad and irriguous courfe of the Towey, of 
 the old bridge over it, of the woods and moun- 
 tains which bound the vale of Llandilo 9 of the 
 beautiful groves which fkirt the flope of a lofty 
 eminence behind the prefent manfion, and of the 
 turrets of Newton caftle, furrounded by a dif. 
 play of fylvan fcenery, rich even to luxuriance. 
 O 2 How 
 
I96 A JOURNEY 
 
 How fo advantageous a fituation happened to 
 be overlooked by thofe who defigned the houfe 
 as it now ftands, is really matter of aftonifhment; 
 but mould the prefent noble pofierTor be induced 
 to undertake the improvement which has been 
 hinted at, his name will live, in the admiration 
 and praifes of men of tafle, through fueceeding 
 generations ; and the caflle of Dynevor will not 
 depend on its ancient companion, the caftle of 
 Newton, for fame or celebrity. 
 
 Our anceftors feem to have given themfelves ve- 
 ry little concern about the fit and the appropriate. 
 Every age has produced a revolution of fafhions, 
 and the principles of true tafle in architecture 
 were, for centuries together, made fubfervient 
 to fanciful and capricious whimfies. 
 
 It is to the great, and will be to the lafting 
 honour of the prefent age, that more correct 
 ideas of genuine and appropriate embellifhment 
 have at length been introduced and patronized. 
 
 An harmonious arrangement of decorations, 
 fuitable to the fcenery intended to be adorned, 
 is now ftudied advantageoufly. 
 
 The delightful affiftances of dignity of appear- 
 ance, and cheerfulnefs of elevation, and the re- 
 ciprocal aid of ground, fp difpofed as to fhew the 
 
 buildings 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 1 97 
 
 buildings to advantage, and a houfe fo formed 
 and fo fituated as to embellifh the furrounding 
 fcenery, have happily fucceeded to the tame for- 
 mality of the lad century ; and the ridiculous 
 frippery and profufion of ornament in which the 
 days of Elizabeth delighted. 
 
 Lord Dynevor polfefTes a park full of great na- 
 tural beauties, in the charming difpofition of 
 hills, valley, and river, fo remarkable at this 
 place. 
 
 Dynevor cattle has alfo thofe accompaniments 
 which cannot be obtained by the greateft wealth 
 and tafte united, without the afliftance of a long 
 period of time, — namely, the richeft groves of 
 (lately trees which are lavifhly diftributed, and 
 in a manner which vafily increafes the majeftic 
 elegance of their appearance. 
 
 When, therefore, a building properly adapted 
 to fuch magnificent fcenery, fhall grace this 
 charming fpot, it will deferve the appellation of 
 a terreftrial paradife ; and if any additional in- 
 citement fo to adorn it could be wanting, it oc- 
 curs in the reflection, that here the proud Cam- 
 brian heroes made their laft bold (land againft 
 thofe who attacked the liberties of their coun- 
 try : — here the focial and domeflic virtues v/ere 
 O 3 recorn- 
 
198 A JOURNEY 
 
 recommended to the imitation of the world, by 
 the force of illuftrious example ; — here, the ci- 
 vilized manners of later and more refined ages, 
 have alfo been cultivated, and the pious memory 
 of renowned anceftors gratefully revered. 
 
 A long line of noble progenitors, whofe coun- 
 try is indebted to them for benefits and bleflings 
 of vaft importance, have devolved on their fuc- 
 ceffors the fame generous fpirit of honour, the 
 fame benignity of fentiment, the fame virtuous 
 emulation, and the fame undaunted boldnefs in 
 Freedom's facred caufe, which irradiated them- 
 felves, and crowned them with immortal glory. 
 
 To thefe ancient worthies a more appropriate 
 monument, indeed, can not be raifed than a drift 
 imitation of their good example ; but the refpect 
 and gratitude of pofterity might fitly be fhewn 
 in rendering the place which was the fcene of 
 their actions here, worthy of recording their 
 names to future generations, who fhall admire, 
 venerate, and copy their exalted worth, 
 
 " 'Twas in ihokjields, by Roman hofts annoy '4, 
 
 '* Fought our bold fathers, rutlic, unrefin'd ! 
 
 «' Freedom's plain fons, in martial cares employM 1 
 
 " They ting'd their bodies, but unmafk'd their minds. 
 
 'Twa« 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. X99 
 
 *' 'Twas there, in happier times, this virtuous race 
 ft Of milder merit fbc'd their calm retreat ; 
 ** War's deadly crimfon had forfook the place, 
 " And freedom fondly lov'd the chofen feat. 
 
 M Here youth's free fpirit, innocently gay, 
 
 •' Enjoy'd the molt that innocence can give ; 
 
 " Thofe wholefome fweets that border virtue's way, 
 
 ft Thofe cooling fruits that we may tafte, and live. 
 
 u Sincere themf elves, ah! too fecure to find 
 u The common bofom, like their own, fmcere! 
 " 'Tis its own guilt alarms the jealous mind, 
 u 'Tis her own poifon makes the viper fear. 
 
 " Farewell, pure fpirits ! vain the praife we give, 
 '* The praife you fought from lips angelic flows ; 
 " Farewell ! the virtues which deferve to live, 
 i4 Deferve an ampler blifs than life bellows." 
 
 SHENSTOKE* 
 
 O 
 
200 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXI, 
 
 Llandllo vaivr.—The Church. — Monumental Infmptlons .~— 
 Llandovery. 
 
 One mile from Dynevor caflle is Llandilo-vawr 9 
 a fmall town, with very narrow, fteep, and ir- 
 regular flreets, but not deftkute of good houfes. 
 
 The church is very ancient, and confifts of two 
 aifles. It is fo remarkably low, that the pillars 
 which fupport the arches on which the roof refts, 
 are not more than five feet in height. 
 
 On our arrival at the inn, we were informed 
 that the fermon was delivered in Welch and Englijh 
 alternately, and, it being funday, that the prayers 
 had jufl commenced. 
 
 We attended divine fervice, for the firft time, 
 in a language which we could not underftand ; 
 but the clergyman, who was far advanced in 
 years, feemed to exert himfelf with great force 
 and energy. 
 
 The communion fervice, and alfo the fermon, 
 was in Englijh. 
 
 ' The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 201 
 
 The farmers, their wives, and daughters, 
 who formed the principal part of the congre- 
 gation, exhibited a neatnefs in their drefs, and 
 a decency of behaviour, very well fitted to the 
 day, and to the religious duties which they had 
 aflembled there to perform. 
 
 There were no tawdry trappings, in imitation 
 of gentility ; — the rofy cheeks were bordered by 
 the neat cleanlinefs of the round eared cap ; and 
 the well turned arm difpiayed its native graceful- 
 nefs in unadorned fimplicity. 
 
 There is a gallery at the weft end of the 
 church ; but I obferved that when the pfalm was 
 given out, they who were to fmg aifembled round 
 the reading defk, and there chaunted their Ma- 
 ker's praife. 
 
 Lord Dynevor's father and mother, with fe- 
 veral more remote anceftors, are buried at the 
 eaft end of the north aifle, under the pew be- 
 longing to the family, which has no mark of 
 proud fuperiority, nor is at all diftinguifhed from 
 the reft of the feats in the church, excepting by 
 being fo fituated that every perfon in it is ex- 
 cluded from the fight of the minifter. 
 - On the front of the gallery is an infcription, 
 fetting forth that the church was new pewed, new 
 
 roofed 
 
202 A JOURNEY 
 
 roofed, and repaired, at the expence of the 
 
 Right Honourable G. Rice. 
 
 On a tablet in the north aifle, is the following ; 
 
 <c 
 
 To the Memory of 
 
 The Right Honourable 
 
 " George Rice, 
 
 " Treafurer of his Majefty's Chamber, 
 
 " Lord Lieutenant and Cuftos Rotulorum, 
 
 " Colonel of the Militia, 
 
 " and 
 
 " Reprefentative in four Parliaments 
 
 " for the County of 
 
 " Carmarthen." 
 
 « c This monument was raifed by Cecilia his 
 " wife, who thought it more than a private duty 
 * 8 that fo bright an example of the great and 
 16 amiable qualities fhould not pafs away with* 
 " out a more lading memorial than the forrow 
 " of his friends, but fhould be held forth to the 
 " imitation of his family and country. 
 
 " His generous nature, which done would 
 " have prompted him to a noble and manly 
 *' conduct, received an incitement from a long 
 cfi fucceflion of illuftrious anceftors. It was aided 
 " by a liberal education, and expanded itfelf in 
 
 a full 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 203 
 
 cc a full produce of all the virtues which belong 
 u to a ftrong under (landing and an active fpirit, 
 " under the regulations of religion and probity. 
 
 " It pleafed God that his defervings fhould 
 c * not be rewarded by a length of days; but, 
 c * even here, they had their fruits in the efteem 
 " and affection of all good men, and in the 
 " zealous and virtuous attachment of his con- 
 " ftituents. 
 
 " He married Cecilia, only child of William^ 
 " Earl Talbot, by whom he left three fons and 
 " two daughters, to deplore, with their afflicted 
 " mother, the lofs of the tendered, kindeft Huf- 
 *' band, Parent, Friend, Protector. 
 
 " He was born 'January 15, 1725, and died 
 " Auguft 3, 17793 deeply and univerfally la- 
 s' mented. 
 
 " His children were Henrietta Cecilia, Lucy, 
 
 c< George Talbot > William, Maria, and Edward* 
 
 " Lucy died young. William furvived his father 
 
 u only a few months, and died aged 1 1 years." 
 
 On another tablet near the above. 
 
 " To the Memory of 
 Cecilia, 
 Baronefs Dynevor 9 
 
 " Widow 
 
 u 
 
204 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Widow of the Right Honourable 
 
 " George Rice, 
 
 " of Dynevor Cattle, in this County, 
 
 " and 
 
 " Daughter and Heirefs 
 
 " of 
 " William, Earl Talbot. 
 
 <c This monument is erecled by her difconfo 
 " late family. 
 
 " PofTefTed of a fuperior underttanding, and 
 " moft benevolent heart, and lofing the aid of 
 " her hufoand in the education of an infant fa- 
 " mily, me difplayed the firmnefs of a father, 
 <c blended with every accomplifhment that could 
 " adorn her own fex. 
 
 " Of the induftrious poor fhe was the kindeft 
 cc prote&refs ; and by a conttant attention to the 
 " behaviour of her own family and dependants, 
 " afforded a profitable example to all her neigh, 
 " bours. 
 
 " She died, univerfally lamented, on the 14th 
 " of March, 1793, aged 57." 
 
 The church-yard is interfered by a road, which 
 divides it into two nearly equal parts ; and there 
 is a pleafant row of houfes along the upper fide 
 
 of it. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 20J 
 
 The road to Llandovery p'affes by the fide of 
 the valley through which the Towey winds its fii- 
 ver courfe. 
 
 On the left, about three miles from Llandik, is 
 a handfome feat of Lord Robert Seymour Conway ', 
 agreeably fitu-ated on an eminence, in a rich, fer- 
 tile, and fylvan country, which is fhewn to great 
 advantage by the dark ihades of fome lofty moun- 
 tains, which clofe the profpeel, and bound the 
 valley on the fouth-eaft. 
 
 No other objects worth particularizing are, 
 however, to be met with, till an ancient manfion, 
 belonging to the--FoIeys 9 in a melancholy ftate.of 
 decay, obtrudes its difmai and neglected ruins 
 on the notice of the traveller. 
 
 Farther on, is a houfe, whimfically built, but 
 pleafantly fituated in a meadow contiguous to the 
 road, and from whence the profpeel. of it will, in 
 a few years, be much improved by the growth of 
 the plantations, among which the young larches 
 feem to flourifh with a peculiar degree of ele- 
 gance. 
 
 A finger-pott pointed to a ford, and to a 
 bridge; — we cafually took the latter tract, (for 
 the weather was too dry, and the river, confe- 
 quently, too low to occafion any apprehenfions 
 
 about 
 
2o6 A JOURNEY 
 
 about pafling at the ford) and by this accident 
 lengthened our journey at leaft three miles ; for 
 the road pafling by the town of Llandovery, leaves 
 it quite behind ; and, not till after many turnings 
 and windings, condu&ed us to a (lone bridge of 
 one arch, over the river. 
 
 Having pafied a church on a hill, jufl out of 
 the town, we foon arrived at the Caflle inn, plea- 
 fantly fituated near an old ruinous fortification, 
 which ftill bids defiance to* the united attacks of 
 age and ftorms. 
 
 Llandovery is neither large, nor well built ; it 
 is, however, neat and clean j but like almofl all 
 the reft of the Welch towns, full of ale-houfes. 
 
 The ruins of the caflle are mantled with ivy, 
 and a handfome terrace walk furrounds part of 
 the keep. 
 
 The inn, which was accurately clean, appear- 
 ed to great advantage, after the accommodations 
 we had met with at Carmarthen ; but we only 
 (topped here for an hour two, and then fet out 
 for Trecqftle 9 which is nine miles diftant. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. dOj 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Road from Llandovery to Trecqftle. — River. — The Inn.-*' 
 Llannfpddyd.-Tbe UJk. 
 
 The road on which we now entered, has been 
 lately conftructed, to avoid the dangers and in- 
 conveniences of palling over the mountains ; and 
 it is made to wind round their bales, fo that it 
 prefents an enchanting difplay of romantic fce- 
 nery, at the fame time that its intrinfic excel- 
 lence defer ves the higheft commendation. 
 
 We had fcarcely got out of the town of Llan- 
 dovery, before a ferpentine river appeared on our 
 right, gliding by the fide of the road, which 
 turns under fome craggy projecting rocks, at the 
 foot of a great mountain. 
 
 Crofled the dream by a bridge of one arch, 
 having on the Jeft a fine bold Hope, covered 
 with wood. The road undulates ; winds to the 
 right, and rifes on a terrace above the river, 
 which here becomes narrow, though its courfe 
 is fo rapid, nhat part of the dream being diverted 
 
 a lit- 
 
20 8 A JOURNEY 
 
 a little way from its channel, is found ftron^ 
 enough to turn a mill within fight of the road. 
 
 Here is alfo a fmall cafcade } and on the right 
 a dufky and venerable wood. 
 
 The valley through which the river runs is 
 narrow, and its deep banks are covered with 
 trees, which, as the dingle contracts in breadth., 
 perfectly obfcure the view of the fir earn, now 
 " heard and fcarcely heard to flow. 5 ' 
 
 i ■ (TO 7 J 
 
 The road winds in the mod elegant manner., 
 and paiTes two craggy diafms, fudh as, in the 
 fouthern parts of England, are fometimes called. 
 chines. 
 
 The valley is flill narrow j its precipitous fides 
 being covered with prees $ and whenever the ri- 
 ver wanders from one of thefe banks to the other., 
 through the little meadows which feparate them, 
 its edges are invariably adorned with a fringe of 
 wood. 
 
 The road, gently rifing and falling over .une- 
 qual ground, firft prefents a view of bold and 
 fwelling downs ; then of a whitened cottage, 
 perched on the fummit of a lofty mountain, and 
 embowered in a hanging, wood ; while the cuc- 
 koo's note, re-echoing through the glade, pro- 
 claimed the approach of a warmer feafon. 
 
 A charm- 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 20G, 
 
 A charming hill rifes from the water's edge, 
 with a mod elegant fweep : the lofty flender trees, 
 which clothe it, to its very fummit, fpreading 
 themfeives into a fan of matchlefs beauty. The 
 road winds to the right, and then the fylvan 
 fcene is loft. 
 
 The downs next claimed our attention, and 
 then the river at their foot, foaming through a 
 rocky and contracted channel with hoarfer mur-* 
 murs. 
 
 This mountain, which was dotted every where 
 with fheep, is finely contrafted by the dark foli- 
 age of a majefiic wood, which crowns the oppo- 
 fite eminence. 
 
 « Ecce coronantur facro frons ardua luco." 
 
 A cottage at the verge of the river, in the 
 neateft ftyle of fimplicity, greatly decorates the 
 fcene ; and a rude plank thrown carelefsly over 
 the ftream, with a rail, lodged in the branche s 
 of the trees, on either fide, forms a ruftic bridge, 
 with as much tafte, as the moft ingenious artift 
 would have difplayed, and perfectly agrees with 
 the wildnefs of the furrounding country. 
 
 The range of mountains now breaks away ab- 
 ruptly to the left, and I feared that the ftream^ 
 P which 
 
210- A JOURNEY 
 
 which feemed to cling around its bafe, would 
 alfo have deferted us ; but it only bends its courfe 
 in compliance with the varieties of the ground, 
 and we foon perceived it on our right, paffing a 
 fmall bridge. 
 
 The road is fheltered by a fine flope, richly co- 
 vered with wood ; and two auxiliary ftreams are 
 feen falling into the little river, fo often men- 
 tioned, with a bridge over each of them. 
 
 The fide of the mountain, at the foot of which 
 we were riding, is covered with wood, from the 
 water's edge to its fummit ; and we began to 
 afcend through it very gradually ; the foil un- 
 der our feet being tinged with a reddifh caft, 
 which has a mild and pleafmg effect : but when 
 we arrived higher up, the hill appeared to have 
 been defpoiled of its leafy honours. 
 
 We continued our journey for a few miles 
 on this hanging road, and derived frefh pleafure 
 every moment from a variety of agreeable objects, 
 which prefented themfelves to our view, in quick 
 and interefting fucceffion. 
 
 A fmall village, with its white church, darted 
 up, as it were, before us : we again crofled our 
 favourite dream, and in a few minutes loft fight 
 of it for ever. 
 
 Farewell ! 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2 II 
 
 Farewell ! thou limped current ! May no rude 
 hand difturb thy peaceful courfe, nor deftroy the 
 beauties which furround thee ! 
 
 Flow on, thou fweet dream ! the joy and ad- 
 miration of the traveller ; the delight of every eye 
 which views thee ; the beauteous offspring of un- 
 erring nature ! 
 
 Flow on, thou fweet river ! and ages hence, 
 when the hand which now celebrates thee (hall 
 have mouldered into duft, and have been long 
 forgotten, may fome brighter genius, attracted 
 by the influence of thy charms, with more ex- 
 alted panegyric record thy name. 
 
 My feeble pen, far, far beneath thy merits, 
 and unequal to thy praife, fhrinks from the talk 
 which gratitude afligned it, and leaves to the 
 rapturous and energetic exprelTion of the poet, 
 the foothing murmurs of thy cryflal flream, the 
 graceful elegance of thy devious courfe, and all 
 the fylvan honours which adorn thy banks. 
 
 Rode through the village of Trecajile, which 
 confifts of a few irregularly built farm-houfes 
 and cottages ; and arrived at the White Hart, an 
 excellent inn, fituated very commodioufly for 
 thofe who travel into Wales, by the way of Bre- 
 con, and well fupplied with excellent trout, from 
 Pa the 
 
212 A JOURNEY 
 
 the Ufk 9 which runs through the neighbouring 
 valley. 
 
 Leaving the inn at Trecqftle, in front of which 
 was once a fortification, now entirely demolifhed, 
 we afcended a hill, and enjoyed a pleafing view 
 of the vale of UJk^ on our right. 
 
 This road prefents no very ftriking, nor re- 
 markable objects ; but the fcenery is placid, and 
 the country well cultivated. 
 
 Aberyfcr, a village at the mouth of a fmall 
 river, and another which contains a large family 
 manfion, called Aberbrain, are on the left 7 and 
 the latter commands a profpecl of the river Brain, 
 running through fine meadows and paflures, for 
 feveral miles > and of a bridge with three arches, 
 at fome diflance. 
 
 Davenock Cqftle (lands on the right, nra rui- 
 nous (late of decay. 
 
 Palfed the village of Llannfpddyd, whofe neat 
 little church is furrounded with very large and 
 venerable yew-trees, expanding in all the luxu- 
 riance of unreflrained nature 7 in which flare, I 
 really think them poffeffed of great majefly and 
 elegance. 
 
 The church near Brain is almoil hidden by a 
 rich plantation, which owes its darkeft and mod 
 
 folemn 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 21$ 
 
 folemn ihades to the yew, flill preferved among 
 the more modem, and mors fafhwiable plants. 
 
 The clouds refted on the fummit of Pent Cryg, 
 a high mountain on the eafl fide of the river UJk ; 
 and prevented us from tracing the lines of caftra- 
 metation which enclofe it. Thefe are the re- 
 mains of a Briiijh encampment (probably that of 
 Llewellyn, when he befieged Brecoii), and the 
 fpot from whence, in later times, Cromwell is faid 
 to have cannonaded the town and caftle. 
 
 Our time did not permit us to vifit the Gaer, 
 a Roman encampment in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The UJi } which had accompanied us for fome 
 miles, can not boafl: the fame elegant fcenery, 
 which decorates the banks of the fmaller ftream 
 between Llandovery and Trecajile ; but it has dill 
 its appropriate embellifhments, and thefe of no 
 inferior order. Boldly floping banks, rich in ver- 
 dure, and in the fylvan honours of the nobleft 
 groves of oak which cover them : a fine broad 
 fcream, now raving among the pebbles, and now 
 gliding in filent majefty through a deeper chan- 
 nel. If it be not adorned with the elegant fim- 
 plicity of ruftic bridges, or the mild features of 
 cottage fcenery fcattered about its fides, it has 
 attracted the notice of the affluent, who have en- 
 P 3 livened 
 
214 A JOURNEY 
 
 livened its courfe with their buildings, and clothed 
 the contiguous hills with plantations worthy of 
 the fruitfulnefs and verdure of the meadows which 
 its waters nourifh. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 215 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 Brecon. — The Alley and Cajtte*— River Wye. — Hay — Clifford 
 Cajlle. — Journey to Kington^ in the Courfe of which <zve -were 
 lojl all night on the Mountains. 
 
 We entered the town of Brecknock, by a bridge 
 over the £7$, which, at a little diflance above it, 
 receives the Honddy, a rapid ftream. 
 
 This bridge has been called (lately ; but it 
 does not feem to deferve fo proud an epithet ; 
 nor does the appearance of the buildings of the 
 town at all convey an idea of opulence, cleanli- 
 nefs, or importance. 
 
 The ruinous caftle, which would otherwife 
 form an intere fling object for contemplation, is 
 fo choaked up with miferable huts, crowded into 
 its very area, that it was difficult to diveft our- 
 felves of the difgufl which they produced, fuffi- 
 ciently to admire the picturefque erTec"l of the an- 
 cient building. 
 
 The flreets of Brecon are narrow, dirty, and 
 
 irregular ; and although it is not without a con- 
 
 fiderable number of good houfes, they bear, it 
 
 P4 muft 
 
2l6 AJOURNEY 
 
 mud be confeffed, a very fmall proportion to the 
 wretched cabins of the indigent. 
 
 The abbey, or collegiate church, founded on 
 the ruins of a priory of Dominicans, by Henry the 
 eighth, once venerable for the extent of its build- 
 ings, and the pre-eminence of its fite, now en- 
 clofed with a high wall, difgraced by the filth of 
 a farm-yard immediately contiguous, and crumb- 
 ling into a dreadful (late of ruinous dilapidation, 
 excites only the fentiments of pity and regret. 
 
 The ftreet which leads to this edifice, confifts 
 of cottages, or rather huts, built of rough brown 
 ftone, and fcarcely boafting a pane of glafs : and 
 the foot pavement is difgraced and obftrucled by 
 heaps of ilones, rubbifh, and dirt. 
 
 The abbey church contains feveral monuments 
 and tablets, but they are chiefly in memory of 
 perfons, who might have wiifaed, rather than de- 
 fer ved, to be remembered ; and whofe names 
 are of confequence only to their refpeclive fami- 
 lies. 
 
 None of thefe is remarkable for its antiquity ; 
 nor did I fee the memorial of one perfon, who 
 was, or is even recorded to have been diftinguifh- 
 ed when living, for birth or talents. 
 
 In 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 217 
 
 In this undiftinguifhed multitude, however, 
 may, probably, have been depofited the remains 
 of negle&ed genius, and the ames of unprotect- 
 ed worth. 
 
 " Perhaps, in this neglected fpot is laid 
 " Some heart once pregnant with celeftial fire ; 
 rc Hands, that the rod of empire might have fway'd, 
 f( Or wak'd to ecftacy the living lyre. 
 ******* 
 " Some village Hampden, that with dauntlefs bread, 
 <e The little tyrant of his fields withftood ; 
 " Some mute inglorious Milton here may reft, 
 e< Seme Cromwell, guiltlefs of his country's blood." 
 
 For the obfervation is unfortunately too true, that 
 cc the pen of hiftory has been more employed in 
 " recording the crimes of ambition, and the ra- 
 " vages of conquerors, than in preferving the 
 " remembrance of thofe, who, by improving 
 " fcience and the arts, have contributed to in- 
 " creafe the conveniences of life, and to heighten 
 66 its enjoyments.'* 
 
 Many of the graves in the church-yard are de- 
 corated with flips of yew, or bay ; which are 
 {luck in the green turf around the afhes of their 
 relations, by the pious hand of friendfhip and 
 affection — a pretty remnant of a very ancient 
 cuftom. z 
 
 « With 
 
21 8 A JOURNEY 
 
 " With faireft flowers while fummer laffo, 
 '• I'll fweeten thy- fad grave." 
 
 And in Milton's Lycidas, 
 
 " Bring the rathe primrofe that forfaken dies ; 
 
 " The tufted crow-toe, and pale jeflamine; 
 
 tc The white pink, and the panfy, freakt with jet j 
 
 " The glowing violet ; 
 
 ** The mufk-rofe, and the well-attir'd woodbine, 
 
 * s With cowflips wan, that hang the penfive head, 
 
 " And ev'ry flower that fad embroidery wears : 
 
 * c Bid amaranthus all his beauty fhed, 
 
 u And daffadillies fill their cups with tears, 
 
 *' To drew the laureajt herfe where Lycid lies." 
 
 On the eaft fide of the church-yard is a tomb 3 
 thus infcribed: 
 
 " Here 
 
 " lieth the body of 
 
 ** the Reverend Richard Davies, B. D. 
 
 " Vicar of Brecon, 
 
 " and 
 
 " Archdeacon and Canon of 
 
 " St. David's ; 
 
 « who died the 2 2d of November, 
 
 " 1748. 
 
 " aged 52." 
 
 On a grave-ftone is the following fpecimen of 
 correct orthography, and harmonious verifica- 
 tion: 
 
 « Dear 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 319 
 
 ** Dear parents dont lament" my fall, 
 •' For Death duth triumph over all. 
 
 <f At two years owld, 
 
 " I felt Death's power, 
 
 " And foon became 
 
 « A dying flower.' ' 
 
 In the middle of the town Hands the market 
 houfe, a refpectable building, where we faw 
 large quantities of hops expofed for fale ; and 
 there are manufactories of cloth, and of cotton 
 ftockings carried on here. 
 
 Brecknock caftle is faid to have been founded 
 by Barnard de Newmarjh, a favourite of King 
 William Rufus. It was befieged by Llewellyn ap 
 Jofwerth, about the year 1233; but without 
 fuccefs : and it does not appear, that it was ever 
 afterwards expofed to the attack of an enemy, 
 till Cromwell's time, when, being at that period 
 in a ruinous ftate, it was laid (till lower by the 
 Ufurper's cannon. 
 
 One of the towers, which is ftill remaining, 
 derives its appellation from Morton, bifhop of 
 Ely, who was confined in it, in the reign of 
 Richard the third, under the cuftody of the duke 
 of Buckingham. 
 
 The duke and his prifoner conferred together, 
 and after frequent confutations, determined on 
 
 advancing 
 
0.2O A J0X7RNEY 
 
 advancing Henry, earl of Richmond to the throne ; 
 but it is uncertain whether the duke connived at 
 the bifhop's efcape, or whether that was effe&ed 
 without his knowledge. Mort@n was, after the 
 acceflion of King Henry, advanced to the dig- 
 nity of archbifhop of Canterbury, lord chancel- 
 lor and cardinal : but the duke of Buckingham 
 was not fo fortunate, being betrayed by a domef- 
 tic, for the reward of a thoufand pounds, offered 
 by King Richard, for his head. This was that 
 duke of Buckingham, whofe fon fell a viclim to 
 the arrogance and refentment of cardinal Wolfey* 
 in the reign of Henry the eighth. 
 
 The two great ornaments of Brecon, and in- 
 deed the only local advantages which belong to 
 the town, remain yet to be mentioned : I mean 
 the two pleafant walks, called " the Priory 
 " Walk," and that on the banks of the UJ&, 
 which are fcarcely equalled in the vicinity of any 
 town with which I am acquainted. 
 
 The abbey, and the trees by which it is fur- 
 rounded, appeared to fome advantage on leaving 
 the town. 
 
 PafTed the village of Bronyllis ; and, contigu- 
 ous to it, an old round tower, part of the caftle, 
 8 which 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 221 
 
 which (lands on an artificial eminence, and is a 
 picturefque ornament to the furrounding coun- 
 try. 
 
 An elegant modern houfe, called Treguniur, 
 is elevated on a lofty hill, on the right : and not 
 far from it the black mountains, 
 
 ( ci whofe top 
 
 cc Licks from their cloudy magazine the fnows/') 
 
 foar above the neighbouring eminences in awful 
 grandeur. 
 
 On the left is Pont-yWall, a gentleman's 
 houfe, pleafantly lituated fo as to command fe- 
 veral very richly- varied, and agreeable views. 
 
 The river Wye defcending from Rbyader, by 
 way of Builth, falls in with the ftream which had 
 accompanied the road we travelled, and paries un- 
 der a long wooden bridge at Glafsbury, where, as 
 well as at the town of Hay, the inundations of the 
 year 1795 deftroyed the (tone bridges, which had 
 refilled the efforts of the ftream for many cen- 
 turies. 
 
 It is remarkable, that both thefe bridges fell 
 up the ftream 5 an evident proof that their de- 
 molition was occafioned by the weight of the 
 water undermining the piers on which they 
 ftood. 
 
 A gen- 
 
222 A JOURNEY 
 
 A gentle defcent of the road, for more than a 
 mile before we reached Hay, afforded a good 
 profpect of the fertile fields, orchards, and hop- 
 grounds, which environ the town, as well as the 
 bold mountains that enclofe them. 
 
 Hay occupies an eminence, on the fumrnit of 
 which formerly flood a ftrong caftle, of which 
 only a few walls, and one fquare tower remain. 
 A dwelling houfe of confiderable fize, has been 
 built out of the ruins ; and two very large flacks 
 of chimnies, at the we 0: end, exhibit, at a dis- 
 tance, no bad refemblance of the ancient turrets 
 which once frowned from this exalted deep. 
 
 The old Norman caflle, which flood on the 
 bank of the Wye, near the church, was demo- 
 lifhed &y King John, towards the end of his 
 reign. 
 
 The church is frnall, and contains nothing re- 
 markable : there is, however, a pleafmg view of 
 the neighbouring valley from the church-yard. 
 
 The town, though not large, is very populous; 
 and the eftablifhment of the thread manufactory 
 in it, is a forcible proof of the induftrious and 
 enterprising fpirit of the inhabitants. 
 
 At Hay we were entertained by Mr. Lyde, fur- 
 geon \ %. gentleman, whofe humanity and fkill do 
 
 as 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 223 
 
 as much honour to the medical profeffion, as his 
 generous and liberal hofpitality reflects on the 
 place of his refidence. 
 
 Having been agreeably detained by the earned 
 folicitations of Mr. Lyde, we did not leave Hay 
 till the following evening, intending to repofe 
 ourfelves at a friend's houfe, near the Brilley 
 mountains, and to proceed towards Kington the 
 next day. 
 
 We rode along the bank of the Wye, and came 
 to Clifford, a fmall village, with a mod pic* 
 turefque and beautiful ruin of an old caflle, fitu« 
 ated on a deep mount, clofe to the river, which 
 is faid to have been the birth-place of the re- 
 nowned Rofamond, daughter of an earl of Clif 
 ford. 
 
 A fecond mount has been raifed almoft conti* 
 guous \ but there are no remains of buildings 
 on it. 
 
 A little inn at Clifford, difplays the fign of the 
 Caflle, an excellent reprefentation of the ruin ; 
 and boldly placed, by the artift, in a fituation 
 where every one has an opportunity of com- 
 paring it with the building, from which it was 
 defigned. 
 
 Forded 
 
224 A JOURNEY 
 
 Forded the Wye, which is broad, but not very 
 deep ; and when we had gained the oppoflte 
 bank, turning round to thank the perfon, who 
 had conducted us to the proper place for crof- 
 fing the river, difcovered a mod remarkable 
 echo ; by far the mod complete in its anfwers of 
 any which I have ever met with ; and not much 
 inferior to that which has been celebrated in Dr. 
 Plotfs " Natural Hidory of Oxford/hire." 
 
 Patted a farm-houfe, and entered on a very 
 fteep, narrow, and dirty lane ; which, after 
 great labour and fatigue, brought us to a village, 
 confiding of three or four houfes, where we ob- 
 tained a direction about the road we were to 
 purfue, which at lad conduced us to the habi- 
 tation of Mr. B— e v-—n. 
 
 The kind and friendly reception which we had 
 uniformly experienced in Wales, left us no room 
 to doubt of meeting with the like hofpitality at 
 LI—— ; but fate had determined otherwife, and 
 notwithdanding the additional claim, which the 
 darknefs of the night, added to our total igno- 
 rance of the road, had given us on their hofpi- 
 tality, we were doomed to experience the mor- 
 tification of being told, that the family was not 
 at home. An old fybil, whofe hagard counte- 
 nance 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 225 
 
 nance was aggravated by this forbidding meffage, 
 gave us the unwelcome anfwer through a cafe- 
 ment, which, (he faid, as we were Grangers to 
 her, fhe did not choofe to open, though the 
 true reafon was, her fear left we mould have de- 
 tected the miftrefs of- the houfe, in the act of 
 hiding herfelf under a table ; the giimpfe of 
 which procedure we caught, by the light of a 
 folitary candle, which the Duenna had forgotten 
 to extinguifh. In vain did we entreat the favour 
 of a guide to Kington ; in vain prefer our earneft 
 requeft to be directed by the neareft road : the 
 old woman having condefcended (but not with- 
 out much altercation with her miftrefs) to tell a 
 lie, or, in more polite phrafeology, to deny her, 
 now ftoutly fupported what me had faid, in op* 
 pofition to the incontrovertible teftimony of our 
 eyes and ears ; but obftinately refufed to anfwer 
 any queftions. Thus circumftanced, we were 
 under the difagreeable neceftity of returning 
 through the lane before mentioned ; and, tow 
 tally deftitute of all knowledge of the road, foon 
 completely loft ourfelves in the mazy intricacies 
 of its different turnings. Enquiring ac a cottage* 
 we received a direction, made up of an unintel- 
 ligible concatenation of names and places, and a 
 0* con- 
 
226 A JOURNEY 
 
 confufion of terms and diftances, which could 
 only have been under ft ood and rectified by thofe 
 who were well acquainted with the geography of 
 the country, and who would, therefore, have 
 required no information. 
 
 As it was barely poflible for us to explore a 
 track thus defcribed, it is not at all wonderful, 
 that we were foon in greater perplexity than be- 
 fore. We had now arrived at a dirty common ; 
 but being deceived by the femblance of a hedge, 
 which was in facl nothing more than the -made 
 occafioned by a thick fog reding on the edge of 
 a lofty hill ; in making up to it, we fuddenly 
 found ourfeives on the brink of a precipice, with 
 a river at its foot. Providentially our horfes 
 were lefs blinded by the mid, than their riders, 
 or we mould have inevitably fallen from the cliff 
 into the water. After this narrow efcape, we 
 made various efforts to regain the road ; but the 
 tracks were either fo numerous as to bewilder us, 
 or fo obfcure, that we could not trace them. 
 The inhabitants of the cottage at which we cal- 
 led, had fpoken of a public houfe fome where 
 on the road ; but there was not a glimmering of 
 light to aflift us, nor any found, but that of a 
 
 tinkling 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 227 
 
 tinkling (heep bell, to be heard. We wandered 
 through the dreary wafte, juft as chance, or ac- 
 cident directed us ; for the points of the compafs 
 were forgotten : there was not a Mar to be feen, 
 and we were, on every fide, furrounded wi h an 
 impenetrable mift. All our care and caution did 
 not . prevent us from falling into feveral deep 
 holes, nor from finking into miry ditches, up to 
 the horfes girths. At laft our progrefs was com- 
 pletely (topped ; for, though not abfolutely en- 
 tangled among the thickets, we were fo enclofed 
 by trees and bufhes, that we could nei her go 
 forward, nor find any opening by which we might 
 retreat. The fcreams of the night owl were the 
 only founds which reached the ear ; and in this 
 gloomy folitude we were compelled to pafs the 
 remainder of the night. Apprehenfive of dan- 
 gers, of which we could not form any probable 
 idea ; fhtouded in darknefs, and thus enclofed in 
 3. confinement, which appeared infurmountable, 
 I could not help fancying myfelf in the famous 
 Buller of Buchan, fo emphatically defcribed by 
 Doctor John/on. 
 
 At laft the mift began to be diffipated, and an 
 
 opening in the wood afforded us fome chance of 
 
 Qj 2 reco« 
 
228 A JOtJRNEY 
 
 recovering our way. A fmali farm-houfe ap* 
 peared at the bottom of the hill, to which we 
 haftened, and were hofpitably received there by 
 its owner, who fet before us his beft provifions, 
 dried our clothes by a turf fire, fheltered our 
 horfes in his ftable, and, as foon as it was day- 
 light, conducted us himfelf, into the road to 
 Kington, 
 
 We now pa!Ted horrid pit-falls, which were 
 bordered with our horfes footings, the dangers to 
 which we had been expofed in the night, ap- 
 peared in their full extent, and (what was mofl 
 provoking) we difcovered that the track which 
 we had unwittingly purfued, pafled clofe by fe- 
 veral houfes, which the darknefs of the night 
 had totally hidden from our view ; and within a 
 few paces of the public-houfe to which we had 
 been repeatedly directed. 
 
 Greatly fatigued, at length we reached King- 
 ton, which is a neat lively town, pretty well 
 built, and populous. 
 
 The church has a fingular appearance, being 
 very irregular in its form ; and the tower, which 
 is very low, (landing detached, on the fouth fide 
 of it, furmounted with a fpire, exactly refemb- 
 
 ling 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 229 
 
 ling three extinguifliers, placed one over the 
 other. 
 
 The Wye, when it arrives at Kington, is a deep 
 and filent dream ; but after pafling the bridge, 
 it divides into two currents, which brawl among 
 the (tones, and refume the character which marks 
 its general courfe. 
 
 At the entrance of the town is a free grammar 
 fchool, erected and endowed by a Lady Watkins* 
 
H$0 , A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Return to Prefleign. ^Road to Mortimer's Croft. — Richard's 
 Cajlle. — Orleton. Ludlow. — Hofpital. — Church, — Caftle. 
 — Lords Prefidents of the Marches of Wales. ~ Hiftorical 
 Anecdotes. — Remarks on certain Corporations. 
 
 The great quantity of rain which had fallen, 
 rendered our journey to Prejleign dirty and un- 
 pleafant. The road paffes through an inclofed 
 country, and leaving the fine plantations at the 
 Earl of Oxford's feat, at Eywood, on the left, 
 rejoins the road by which we had before entered 
 Prefteign. 
 
 Here we again met with that cordial and un- 
 affected hofpitality, that generous and attentive 
 reception, which marks the character of true 
 friendfhip, and adds luflre to the mod exalted 
 qualifications, and the mod fplendid accomplifh- 
 
 ments. 
 
 After refling ourfelves for a few days under 
 
 the hofpitable roof of Mr. D s, we purfued 
 
 our journey to Ludlow, through roads every 
 where exceffively bad, and in fome places almofl: 
 impaffable. 
 
 •Two 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2%l 
 
 Two miles from Prefteign, parted fome genteel 
 villas, at the foot of the noble hill which fuf- 
 tains the fortification called Weobly camp. The 
 flope is covered with wood, which defcends to 
 the meadows, on the brink of a fmall river, 
 over which is a (tone bridge. 
 
 The village of Kinjha?n, with the feat of the 
 Countefs Dowager of Oxford^ are on the left; 
 and on the oppofite fide is a bold craggy moun- 
 tain, which darkens the road, and towers over 
 the adjacent country. 
 
 The road pavTes the feat of Vifcount Bateman 9 
 near which we croffed another bridge, and after- 
 wards rode through the village of Shobdon to 
 Mortimer's Crofs, a place rendered famous in 
 hiitory by its vicinity to the fpot on which Ed* 
 ward, Duke of Tork (afterwards King Edward 
 the fourth) encountered the forces of Henry the 
 fixth, under the command of Jafper, Earl of 
 Pembroke. 
 
 The event of this battle proved highly advan- 
 tageous to Edward^ who befides having made 
 great ilaughter of the King's army, took (among 
 other prifoners) Owen Tudor ', hufband to Queen 
 Catharine, and father in law of Henry the fixth) 
 and beheaded him at Hereford. 
 
 (^4 Palled 
 
23a A JOURNEY 
 
 PalTed Croft Caftle, formerly the feat of Mr. 
 Johnes, whofe elegant refidence at Hafod has 
 been already defcribed ; and from Yarpole, about 
 a mile beyond it, enjoyed a retrofpeft of the 
 buildings, and a fine fcreen of oaks which fhel- 
 ter the houfe* 
 
 Three miles from Ludlow is Richard 9 s Cqftle, 
 now a mean village, with fcarcely a veftige of 
 the building from whence it derives its name re- 
 maining. It is a place of great antiquity, and 
 fome records are preferved of its importance in the 
 Norman times; — fince which, it has gradually 
 declined, and now contains only one object wor- 
 thy of the traveller's notice. 
 
 This is a natural curiofity, fcarcely to be pa- 
 ralleled, but which has been long known to the 
 curious. Camden, and other authors, have men- 
 tioned it, but no fatisfactory account has been 
 given of the caufe of it. 
 
 Beneath the caftle is a well, which contains 
 immenfe quantities of the bones of frogs, — and 
 although it has been feveral times cleanfed, they 
 are foon found in as great numbers as before. 
 This happens in fpring and autumn, and it has 
 been conjectured that the coldnefs of the water 
 firft killed the frogs, and then deftroyed and 
 
 diffolved 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 233 
 
 diffolved the flefh :■ — an experiment has been 
 made, to difcover the truth of this, by tying a 
 living frog in the water ; but no fuch effect was 
 then produced. This experiment however, is 
 no farther conclufive than as it difproves the 
 power of the water to deftroy life, for it may 
 poflibly happen that this water pofTeffes the pe- 
 culiar property of dhTolving the flefh of dead 
 animals, although it has no effect on the fame 
 fpecies during life. 
 
 It is remarkable that the human body, whe- 
 ther in health or difeafe, is always very near 
 that degree of temperature which is moil favour- 
 able to the procefs of putrefaction, and yet 
 that it has no difpofition to putrefy. 
 
 It may appear but vague reafoning, but it is 
 undoubtedly the truth, to fay,- that the life pre- 
 vents it, but the imperfect powers of the human 
 mind can no more account for why the living 
 principle does prevent it, than they can explain 
 why attraction and gravitation exifl ; or than 
 they can elucidate the fact that the flefh of a living 
 frog is not liable to be deftroyed by the water 
 in this well, though that of a dead one will be 
 very fpeedily diffolved in it. 
 
 12 After 
 
2J4 A JOURNEY 
 
 After we had pafled the village of Orkton, 
 which is almofl: hidden among orchards, we faw 
 fever al villas on each fide of the road ; and, 
 at a diftance, on the right, {lands Bellington 9 
 the refidence of the Right Honourable Thomas 
 Harley. 
 
 The approach to Ludlow from Prejleign is not 
 at all (hiking. The lofty tower of the church, 
 indeed, appears on an eminence, but neither the 
 caftle, nor the river, nor the walls which beautify 
 the environs of the town, are included in the 
 profpect. 
 
 At the corner of Mr. Lechmere*s park, an old 
 bridge, with pointed piers and receifes, leads to 
 the high flreet :— the fouth gate has been con- 
 verted into a dwelling houfe, but the arched 
 paffage is ftill open. 
 
 This flreet is ftraight and well built, and at 
 the upper end, where it is crorled by another of 
 inferior breadth, Hands a neat ftone building, 
 fupported by pillars,' which ferves as a fchoo3 5 
 and a market- houfe. 
 
 The other flreets are, in general, fpacious* 
 and fome of them handfome, but there is an air 
 of quietnefs which the fize of the town rendered 
 
 unexpected | 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 23 J 
 
 unexpe&ed ; and grafs literally grows in feveral 
 parts of it. 
 
 Dulnefs feems, indeed, to have fo completely 
 eftabii fried her reign here, that we had been a 
 whole day at Ludlow before we faw a fingle car- 
 riage of any defcription pafs through the ftreets. 
 
 The church is a handfome cruciform ftructure, 
 in the gothic ftyle, with large and lofty windows, 
 and a fine tower ornamented with ftatues. 
 
 A terrace walk enclofes the weft fide of the 
 church-yard, which commands an agreeable prof- 
 peel over the meadows, and the courfe of the 
 river Te??w, to the diftant hills. 
 
 Near the church is a neat hofpital for the re- 
 ception of poor perfons, with the following in- 
 fcription on the front : 
 
 " Domum hanc Eleemofynariam 
 
 " Munificentia Johannis Hofyer, Mercatoris, 
 
 " Anno falutis mcccclxxxvi, prifmito 
 
 " extruclam. 
 
 « Temporis injuria labefadam dein et ruituram^ 
 
 In Dei optimi maximi Gloriam, Pii Fundatoris 
 
 " Memoriam et comodioram, 
 
 " Pauperum receptionem ; ab ipfis ufque 
 
 " Fundamentis propriis fumptibus, 
 
 Refufci- 
 
 f« 
 
2$6 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Refufcitarunt, ampliarunt, ornarunt, 
 
 cc Ballivi Burgenfes et Communitas Villas hujus 
 
 " de Ludlow; 
 
 <c Anno Domini, mdc^lviii, 
 
 cc Auguftiflimi Regis Georgii Secundi 
 
 " Tricefimo primo. 5 ' 
 
 A handfome portico on the fouth fide of the 
 church is now the principal entrance. 
 
 This edifice contains the afhes of many diflin- 
 guifned perfons ; — it is neatly pewed, and a con* 
 fiderable quantity of painted giafs is flill remain-* 
 ing in the windows, notwithstanding the fuper- 
 ftitious devaluations to which it was expofed, in 
 common with all other religious edifices, in the 
 fanatical days of Cromwell \—io that yet 
 
 (i The ftoried window (hades the folar ray, 
 <Jc With foften'd luftre, and religious day." 
 
 The font is of white marble, and placed near 
 ihe weft door. 
 
 The roof is not ceiled, but wainfcoted with 
 oak, and decorated at the interfeclions of the 
 joifts with painted figures of angels bearing 
 fcrolls, with fentences from the " Te Deum." 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 237 
 
 The organ, which is very handfome, is inju- 
 dicioufly placed over the entrance to the chan- 
 cel. It was the gift of the Right Honourable 
 William Henry Earl of Powis ; and there is a fire- 
 engine, which was prefented by the fame family. 
 
 Oi a tablet affixed to one of the pillars which 
 fupport the tower, is an infcription in memory 
 of " The Honourable Alice Burrard, daughter 
 <c of r ichard> Lord Herbert, Baron of Cher bury, 
 " in England, and of Caftle I/Iands 9 in Ireland™ 
 and dated 1703. 
 
 On the fouth fide of the chancel is a white 
 marble monument in memory of " Thocphilus 
 ■* Salzvay, Efq. fon of Edward Salway, and 
 grandfon of Major Richard Salway" who, as 
 the infcription fets forth, cc facrificed all and 
 <c every thing in his power, in fupport of public 
 " liberty, and in oppofition to arbitrary power." 
 
 A fort of pedeftal fupports a furly, dropftcaU 
 looking cherub; on one fide lies the fhield of arms, 
 and on the other is a pyramid, compofed of books 
 and palm branches, furmounted with an ill fhaped 
 fcull, big enough for the moulders of a giant. 
 
 Near the lad mentioned monument is one of 
 alabafter, painted and ornamented with feveral 
 coats of arms, with the following words : w 
 
2j8 A TOURNEY 
 
 « fymt \?tt$t tfie botJpe of am&rofta %&pfc 
 <c tiep, inufi JDausfitet of t%t fttgfjc l^onout* 
 cc able ©ir ^envp ©pbaep, ftmgnt of tfir 
 w moff noble omer of tge Matter, ILortj $ie* 
 «* gsDentof tfie Count*!! of Maiieg, eic. £lti& 
 « c of tlje HaDpe tparpe gi0 Wpef, SDausJjter 
 ce of tfie famoug HDtrite of jftOitgumtolanir, 
 " la)So fcpels in Lntilo&e CaSell, tfie 22ts of 
 * 6 jMmaxie, 1574." 
 
 The pavement of the chancel is almoft wholly 
 covered with funereal memorials, and among 
 many lefs diftinguifhed names is that of a daugh- 
 ter of Thomas 1 Lord Folliot, Baron of Ballifhan* 
 fion, in Ireland^ who married into the two anci- 
 ent familes of Powel and Jones, of Radnor/hire* 
 
 Near the altar, in a recumbent pofture, is the 
 figure of a lady in the drefs of the times in which 
 me lived ; and below, this inscription : 
 
 " HERE LYETH, EXPECTINGE A JOYFUL?, 
 €C RESURRECTION, THE BODY OF DAME MARY 
 <c EURE, LATE WIFE TO THE RIGHT HONOUR- 
 cc ABLE RALPHE, LORD EURE, BARON OF MAL- 
 ec TON, LORD PRESIDENT OF THE PRINCIPALI- 
 <c TIE AND MARCHES OF WALES, AND LIEU- 
 " TENANT OF THE SAME, AND DAUGHTER OF 
 
 " SIR, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2J9 
 
 *? SIR JOHN DAWNEY, OF SESSEY, IN THE COUN- 
 cc TY OF YORK, KNT. WHO DEPARTED THIS 
 €C MORTALL LIFE THE I9TH DAY OF MARCH, 
 " ANNO DOMINI l6l 2, JETATIS SUJE 55" 
 
 On the north fide of the altar, within the 
 rails, is an ancient monument, with the figure 
 of a doughty knight in armour, with a dagger 
 by his right fide, and a book between his hands; 
 and of a lady, extended at full length, and red- 
 ing her head on a large book, two dogs lying at 
 her feet ; and at the feet of the knight, a dcer 9 
 with this motto: " Tout en Dieu." The lady has 
 rings on the fecond joint of the fourth finger 
 of each hand. 
 
 ' c t)mt Ipttb t[ie HBoupes of %iv IRobert 
 •5 ^o&nftniii, SnpsSr, lovDCfrcf 3^iceof 
 «f tfie Cotmfell in t$t ^artfieg of Mafeg an!* 
 
 M Clieffer; ana HDame £iicc fiig Kpf? , SDouglj* 
 •f ter, anti oue of tfie S^epre^ of IRobert #oppe, 
 ^ ef quire, &J)oe £at> bet&pne tbem t&oa *ij 
 " tBpteren, bi formed and bj Uougfirer^, Into* 
 " fullp be^ot." 
 
 The figures of the fix daughters are at the ends 
 of the monument, adorned with their coats of 
 arms, empaled with thofe of the families with 
 which they intermarried : — the founes have the 
 
 honour 
 
24® A JOURNEY 
 
 honour of Handing in a row along the front 
 of the tomb, and below each figure is the name, 
 description, and rank of each perfon refpec~tively, 
 but many of thefe infcriptions are illegible. 
 
 Crefts were firfl ufed early in the fourteenth 
 century ; but I do not find when the cu?om of 
 placing them at the feet of monumental fla- 
 tues firfl obtained. It was perhaps introduced 
 during the crufadoes, as we ufually find the 
 figures of crofs-legged knights with thefe accom- 
 paniments ; and as every innovation of that pe- 
 riod was tinclured with a religious fervor, this 
 might perhaps be intended as fymbolical of the 
 contempt which the true chriftian warrior enter- 
 tained for the good things of the prefent world, 
 and as an indication that he afpired to the bleff- 
 ings of immortality, trampling on the higher! 
 honours and diftin&ions of this earthly ftate. 
 
 The window over the altar is nearly entire, 
 and contains the hiftory of St. Lawrence, the 
 tutelar faint of the church. 
 
 On the north fide, of the chancel is a monu- 
 ment with this infcription : 
 
 " This monument was erected by Edward 
 " Walter Efquire, one of his Majefty's council 
 " in ordinary in the Principality and Marches of 
 
 " " Wales, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 241 
 
 86 Wales, in his life-time, anno setatis fuse 72, 
 " in memory of himfelf, and of Martha, his late 
 <c Wiefe, deceafed, who was daughter of Sir 
 " Charles Foxe, Knight, and Dame IJfabell, his 
 " wiefe. Shee departed this lifee the 2d day of 
 « 08. 1629. 
 
 " They had ifTue betweene them three fonnes, 
 " Charles, Edward, and Timothy ; and four 
 <c Daughters, Margaret, IJfabell, Margaret, and 
 " Anne ; of all which only two are nowe livinge : 
 " Margaret, the younger, who is married to 
 " Edward Corbett, of Longnor, in the county 
 " of Salop, Efquire ; and Anne, who is married 
 " to Edward Foxe, of Ludforde, in the county 
 " of Hereford, Efquire." 
 
 There is a chapel on the north fide of the 
 chancel, with fome painted glafs in the windows, 
 and an alabafler monument of Sir John Brydge- 
 man, who is reprefented in his robes and cap ; 
 and, agreeable to the character preferved of him, 
 with a fenfible, but morofe countenance : 
 
 " SACRUM MEMORLffi, 
 " DNI. JOHANNIS BRTDDGEMAN, MILITIS, 
 * c SEE.UIENTIS AD LEGEM ET CAPITALIS JUSTICIARII, 
 " CESTRLffi, 
 " QUI MAXIMO OMNIUM BONUM TJOERORB, 
 
 R « (cum 
 
242 A JOURNEY 
 
 u (CUM 70.ANNOS vixisset) 
 
 , <c 5 FEBR. ANNO 1 63 7; 
 
 " PIE PLACIDEQ. ANIMA DEO REDDIDIT.'* 
 
 Francifca uxor mceftiffima pofuit. 
 
 In the fouth end of the tranfept is what I take 
 to be a great curiofity :— the Commandments,, 
 painted in the old letter, and which have fo re- 
 mained from the time that they were nrft order- 
 ed to be fet up in churches. 
 
 The fevera! precepts are much abridged, and 
 they exhibit a curious fpecimen of ancient ortho- 
 graphy, beginning thus : 
 
 " %ty tzn commatmtameitttg oF aimpifttie 
 
 " (Bofctie* 
 " Itjoifc fl;auite ^alie none otlje^ (feofceg but 
 
 « mti" 
 
 A red capital begins mofl of the nouns. The 
 firft, fixth, feventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth 
 commandments are at length. 
 
 The fecond is abridged from the end of the 
 precept. The promife of the third is omitted 5 
 and all the latter part of the fourth, which *e- 
 fpe&s the creation : and in the fifth, the fecond 
 claufe is entirely omitted. 
 
 Divine fervice is performed here three times z 
 10 day 1 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 243 
 
 day ; and there is a provifion for a rector, cu- 
 rate, and lecturer. 
 
 On another monument is the following : 
 
 <c He ARE LYE THE BODIES OF EDMUND WAL- 
 " TER, ESQUIER, CHIEFFE JUSTICE OF THREE 
 " SHIERS IN SOUTH WALES, AND ONE OF HIS 
 " MAJESTY'S COUNCILL IN THE MARCHES OF 
 <c WALES ; AND OF MART, HIS WIFE, DAUGH- 
 " TER OF THOMAS HACKLUIT, OF EYTON, 
 cc ESQUIER, WHO HAD ISSUE THREE SONNES, 
 < c NAMED JAMES, JOHN, AND EDWARD; AND 
 C < TWO DAUGHTERS, NAMED MART AND DO- 
 " ROTHT. HE WAS BURIED THE XXIX DAYE 
 * c OF JANUARIE, ANN. DN 1 592." 
 
 This tomb is of alabafler ; the figures are of 
 jet, recumbent on a table of white marble, fup* 
 ported by pillars of variegated alabafler : and be- 
 low the entablature are five little figures, kneel- 
 ing. 
 
 Among this interefling collection of monu- 
 mental records, it is obfervable, that the chief 
 officers of the court of marches have their effigies 
 always decorated with the ring, or fignet ; — the 
 conftant diflinguifhing ornament of places of 
 truft and confidence, in remote periods. 
 
 The great name of Cadwallader, is ftill re- 
 maining in the family of a tradefman of Ludlow; 
 R 2 perhaps 
 
244 A JOURNEY 
 
 perhaps without his knowing the origin front 
 whence he fprung. Were it poflible for us to 
 trace the connexions of the moil: ancient families 
 in the kingdom, there is no doubt that we mould 
 find a pretty equal diftribution of what is proud- 
 ly termed noble blood. We mould difcover this 
 precious fluid in various channels, fometimes 
 creeping fluggiflbly through the veins of a ple- 
 beian ; another while boiling with impetuofity in 
 kings and princes. We mould detect fome of the 
 greateft names, among the humbled Rations, and 
 even, perhaps 
 
 "" An undoubted Plantagenet holding the plough." 
 
 Near Ludlow the Teme is joined by a fmaller 
 11 ream, called the Corfe, which paries under a 
 ftrong bridge, of three arches, north-weft of the 
 town 5 but afterwards winds between the mea- 
 dows fo fecretly, that its courfe is not eafily to 
 be traced. 
 
 Both the Teme and the Corfe are full of trout 
 and perch, and of a fpecies of roch, which is 
 called by fome name peculiar to this part of the 
 country. 
 
 The abundance of fifh has tempted a! mod all 
 the poorer fort to become fifhermen,. and in* 
 
 duced 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 245 
 
 duced the neighbouring gentlemen, who pofTefs 
 eftates, and the farmers, who occupy land con- 
 tiguous, to be very (Iricl in prohibiting perfons 
 from coming to angle on the grounds which re- 
 fpeclively belong to them. 
 
 Ludlow Caftle, whether it be confidered on 
 account of its antiquity, the dignity of its hifto- 
 ry, or the magnificent ruin which it at prefent 
 exhibits, highly deferves attention. 
 
 It (lands on the weft fide of the town, on a 
 noble eminence, which commands a beautiful 
 valley, full of green paftures, dotted with cattle, 
 and interfperfed with trees ; decorated with a 
 fofily gliding river, whofe banks are fringed with 
 wood ; and 'bounded by lofty hills, either cover- 
 ed with trees, or heaving their bold naked ridges 
 into the clouds, at a hazy diftance. 
 
 (< The various landfcape onward fpreads, 
 
 " O'er cultur'd plains and verdant meads, 
 
 " And feats, and towns, and hamlets rife, 
 
 " Where yon fmoke curls into the ikies ; 
 
 " And fpires that pierce through tufted trees, 
 
 " Till faintly fadin? by degrees, 
 
 " Beyond> in wild confufion toft, 
 
 « The hills' blue tops in clouds arc loft." 
 
 The buildings of the keep are of immenfe 
 
 height, and occupy a terrace nearly a hundred 
 
 R 3 feet 
 
1^6 A JOURNEY 
 
 feet above the river, which on the fouth fide of 
 the ruins paries under an elegant bridge, too nar- 
 row to be commodious j but feemingly defigned 
 as a pi&urefque objeft from the walks that are 
 carried round the caftle ; and which, being kept 
 with great neatnefs, afford an interefting and 
 agreeable promenade. 
 
 A dam has been made acrofs the river, to 
 fupply a mill near the bridge, immediately below 
 the fite of the caftle \ and a cafcade is thus 
 formed, whofe murmurs have a foothing effect. 
 
 The entrance from the town is under a Io# 
 gate-way, neither magnificent nor {lately. The 
 area, into which it opens (by Stukely called the 
 Barbican), is of confiderable extent: all the 
 buildings by which it was enclofed on the fide to* 
 wards the town, are fallen to decay ; but fuffi- 
 cient fragments ftill remain, to point out what 
 was formerly the porter's lodge. 
 
 The caftle, properly fo called, or, as fome 
 will have it, the keep, is feparated from this area* 
 by a deep fofs, as well as a ftrong wall. 
 
 We approached the interior, under a gate- 
 way, ornamented with the arms of Queen Eli- 
 zabeth, and of Lord Prefident Sidney : and hav- 
 ing 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 247 
 
 ing the following infcriptions, in capital letters, 
 gilt: 
 
 " HOMINIBUS INGRATIS LOQUIMINI LAPIDES, 
 
 " AN. REGNI REGINjE ELYZABETHJE 23. 
 " THE 22 YEAR COPLET OF THE PRESIDENCY OF 
 U SIR HENRI SIDNET, KNIGHT OF THE MOST 
 " NOBLE ORDER OF THE GARTER, ETC. I58 I. 
 
 " ANNO DOMINI MILESIMO QUICENTISSIMO 
 " OCTUAGESIMO COr"*ETO, ANNO REGNI SERE- 
 " NJ.SSIM.ffi ILLUSTRISSIM^E REGIN-ffi ELIZA- 
 6i BETHJE VICESSIMO TERTIO." 
 
 The buildings of the keep enclofe a fmall ir- 
 regular court, in the midft of which is a circular 
 tower, of great antiquity, formerly part of the 
 body of the chapel, the eafl end of which is en- 
 tirely demolifhed. 
 
 This (Iruclure has undoubtedly flood here, ever 
 fmce the Saxon times, and the painted coats of 
 arms, with which its walls had been decorated, 
 were remaining within the memory of perfons 
 now living. 
 
 An elegant moulding runs round the outfide, 
 and the beautiful Saxon arch of the grand door- 
 way is (till prefer ved entire. 
 
 The height of the walls may be about forty 
 
 feet 5 but the roof is gone, and the arches, which 
 
 R 4 fuftaia 
 
248 A JOURNEY 
 
 fuftain the walls, and the Saxon pillars on which 
 they reft, are expofed to the wind and rain. 
 
 The great hall, to which we afcended by a 
 flight of fteps, covered with earth and rubbifh, 
 is about fixty-fix feet by thirty-fix, and twenty 
 feet high : it remained nearly entire, till within 
 thefe 40 years ; together with part of its furni- 
 ture, fome old armour, and feveral culinary uten-* 
 His, which indicated the extent of ancient hok 
 pitalityj 
 
 The perfon who mewed the premifes, after re- 
 probating in general terms the mifconduct of 
 thofe to whom the cuftody of the caftle had 
 been, of late years, entrufted, and who have di- 
 lapidated it, and carried away even the timber, 
 for their own private advantage, was particu- 
 larly fevere againft one Stewart, a Scot's ma?i 9 
 who (he faid) hzdjlolen a great copper flaggon, 
 which had been kept for ages in the caftle, and 
 was marked with an infcription, fetting forth that 
 it was defigned for the ufe of ftrangers, and the 
 honour of EngHJh hofpitality. 
 
 Jf it had been fuffered to remain here, how* 
 ever, there is very little reafon to fuppofe, that 
 It would have continued to ferve the fame ho? 
 
 nourable 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 249 
 
 nourable purpofes ; and therefore it may, per- 
 haps, be as well in Scotland. 
 
 The buildings on the north-weft fide are inac- 
 cefiible. The outer wall, all round, is flanked 
 with fquare towers, each of which has a fally 
 port, with a ftrong door, ftudded with iron, and 
 fecured with vaft bars and maflive hinges. 
 
 In one of thefe towers, now fomewhat alter- 
 ed from its original form, and ignominioufly con- 
 verted into a mean publiohoufe, the abode of a 
 perfon who keeps a tennis court, formed among 
 the ruins ; Mortimer, lord of Wigmore, a neigh- 
 bouring chieftain, was confined for many years ; 
 and from him this part of the building is now 
 denominated Mortimer* s Tower. 
 
 Ludlow caftle is faid to have been firil built in 
 the reign of Henry the firft, by Roger de Mont- 
 gomery ^ earl of Shrew/bury and marfhal of Eng- 
 land ; and Wharton, in his edition of Milton' } s 
 works, fixes the date of its erection in the year 
 1 112 : but it has been conjectured, that Roger 
 de Montgomery only repaired the old caftle here, 
 which had belonged to the eftates of Edric, earl 
 of Shrewjbury, who was difpoffsifed of his pro- 
 perty by the conqueror. 
 
 It 
 
£$0 A JOURNEY 
 
 It is, however, certain, that the family of 
 Montgomery was in poneffion of this place about 
 the period alluded to ; and that it was wrefted 
 from it by Henry the firft, in confequence of re- 
 bellion, 
 
 Roger de Montgomery, before mentioned, in a 
 fit of devotion, near the termination of a life fpent 
 in military affairs, was (horn a monk of the Be- 
 nedictine Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, which 
 he had founded at Shrew/bury ; and where he 
 lies interred. 
 
 It was in the next reign held by the governor, 
 for the Emprefs Maud ; but foon yielded to King 
 Stephen, who laid fiege to it in perfon, attended 
 by Prince Henry, fon of David the firft, king of 
 Scots i whofe life the king faved at the rifque of 
 his own, by cutting the ropes of a grappling 
 engine, let down from the walls of the caftle. 
 
 Henry the fecond granted it to the family of 
 Fitz-warren, which leads me to mention a tra- 
 ditionary report refpefting Hugh de Mortimer, of 
 fVigmore. 
 
 It feems, that in the progrefs of thofe feuds 
 and jealoufies, which formerly fubfifted for ge- 
 nerations between great families, fometimes 
 fmothered by policy, and again breaking out into 
 
 opea 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2$1 
 
 open violence ; Tome of the attendants belonging 
 to the Lord of Ludlow, being employed in cut- 
 ting wood near the town, felzed the perfon of 
 Mortimer, of Wigmore Cajlle, and conveyed him 
 to their matter, by whom he was detained, in 
 clofe confinement, till a great ranfom had been 
 paid for his releafe. 
 
 A fortunate turn of a card, or the making of a 
 dice-box now transfers a great eftate, from the 
 heir of one family to another ; in the feudal times 
 a more lawlefs, though not a more jufl transition, 
 was made, by means of open force. 
 
 Various pofTefTors held, and were deprived of 
 Ludlow caflle, till the time of Henry the fixth, 
 in whofe ieign Richard Plantagenet, duke of 
 Tork, here affembled his followers and partizans, 
 and fet up his flandard, in open defiance of his 
 fovereign. 
 
 The caflle was, however, after a fhort refill* 
 ance, given up to the king's forces, and was by 
 them difmantled. 
 
 Richard Plant agenet was killed at the battle of 
 Wakefield, and the cruelties exercifed on fome of 
 his adherents fo exafperated his fon Edward, who 
 does not appear to have been before engaged in 
 bis father's rebellion, that he immediately col- 
 lected 
 
2$2 A JOURNEY 
 
 leeted his dependants, and being foon joined by 
 the Welch, got poffeffion of Ludlow caflle, with- 
 out refinance. 
 
 The town, indeed, feems to have aflifted him 
 m his projecled enterprife ; and, accordingly, 
 when he had defeated the earl of Pembroke, at 
 Mortimer's Crofs, and obtained pofTeflion of the 
 throne, we find him bufily employed in reft or- 
 ing this ancient fortrefs, and recompenfing the 
 inhabitants -for their zealous attachment to him, 
 by a charter of privileges. 
 
 In his reign it became the refidenee of the 
 iieir apparent, and from hence the unfortunate 
 prince, under the title of Edward the fifth, was 
 with his- brother, Richard Plantagenet, duke of 
 York, removed to a more convenient place for 
 file perpetration of the horrid deed, by which 
 they were deprived of the crown, and of their 
 lives, by the agents of their unnatural uncle, the 
 Duke of Gloucefter, afterwards King Richard the 
 third. 
 
 Prince Arthur, elded fon of King Henry the 
 feventh, kept his court here, after his affiance 
 with Catharine of Arragon, but died in a few 
 months. 
 
 However^ 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 253 
 
 However, the fplendour of Ludlow was not 
 extinguifhed by that event : for the importance 
 of pofTeffing this fortrefs being fufficiently under- 
 ftood, in thofe turbulent and unfettled ages, 
 while the fovereign had any reafon to fear the 
 encroachments or difaffection of the borderers ; it 
 was thought convenient to make ufe of it for the 
 purpofe of checking the power of the Welch, and 
 in order to ftretch the regal authority beyond 
 thofe limits, which the free and independent 
 fpirit of the barons had prefcribed to the autho- 
 rity of the later princes, 
 
 The long reign of Henry the feventh, and the 
 fecurity of his title, after the deftruclion of Perkin 
 Warbeck, contributed to the advantages with 
 which his fon afcended the throne : and the dif- 
 pofition of Henry the eighth, arbitrary, infolent* 
 and defpotic, aided by the fuccefs of all his en- 
 terprizes, under the administration of Cardinal 
 Wclfey, and the increafe of power and of wealth, 
 gained by the fuppreflion of monafteries, en- 
 couraged him to lay the foundation of the court 
 of marches, as a ftep the molt probably condu- 
 cive to a complete and abfolute eftablifhment of 
 uncontrolled authority. 
 
 This- 
 
2 $4 A JOURNEY 
 
 This court, confiding of a lord prefident 9 
 and an indefinite number of counfellors, at the 
 king's pleafure, with a fecretary, folicitor, attor- 
 ney, and four juftices for the counties of Wales, 
 extended its exorbitant influence over that unhap- 
 py country, with a degree of capricious defpotifm, 
 on which, in thefe enlightened days of liberty^ 
 and of juftice, we can not reflect without horror 
 and aftonifhment. 
 
 The pomp and magnificence of this eftablifli- 
 ment, fo well calculated to attract public reve- 
 rence and refpect, feem not fo much intended 
 to maintain the dignity of thofe ,-who were ap- 
 pointed to execute the laws, as to place them at 
 a vafl diflance from the people, who reforted to 
 their tribunal j and to dazzle the eyes of the in- 
 ferior orders. 
 
 The court of marches was a fit inflrument in 
 the hands of a politic prince, for fubjugating 
 the independence cf the nobles, as well as for 
 checking the growth of the fir ft feeds of freedom, 
 and fupprefling the dawn of liberty among the 
 people. 
 
 Henry, whofe artifices were equal to any emer- 
 gency, well knew how neceflary it would be to 
 commit the management of this new eftablifh- 
 ment to a man of acknowledged probity, and 
 
 one 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2$$ 
 
 one who could not be fufpe&ed of a defign to 
 abridge the influence of the peers, or extend the 
 regal prerogative. 
 
 The benefit which he expected to derive from 
 it, was, moreover, to be effected gradually; and 
 it was referved to the king himfelf, to remove 
 the lord prefident, as well as the reft of the offi- 
 cers, at his own pleafure ; fo that by conferring 
 that honour at firfl, on a man not blindly and 
 implicitly attached to his own principles, he had 
 at once an opportunity of proving the fidelity of 
 that man, and of deceiving his fubjects into a 
 belief, that the court of marches was really de- 
 figned for their fecurity and advantage. 
 
 Rowland Lee, bifhop of Coventry and Litihjield, 
 was the firfl perfon entrufted with the important 
 office of lord prefident ; and to that prelate fuc- 
 ceeded, 
 
 Richard Samp/on, bifhop of Chejier, 1544. 
 
 John, lord Dudley, duke of Northumberland* 
 
 Sir William Herbert , earl of Pembroke, 
 
 Nicholas Heath, bifhop of Worcester, and after- 
 wards arch bifhop of Tork, and chancellor 
 of England, 
 
 William, earl of Pembroke, agnin. 
 
 Gilbert Brown, bifhop of Bath and Wells, 
 
 Sir 
 
2 $6 A JOURNEY 
 
 Sir John Williams, lord Williams, of Tame* 
 
 Sir Henry Sidney, K. G. and father of the vir- 
 tuous, learned, and accomplifhed Sir Phi* 
 lip Sidney, 1564. 
 
 Henry Herbert, earl of Pembroke. 
 
 Edward, lord Zoiich. 
 
 Ralph, lord Eure. 
 
 Sir John Egerton, earl of Bridgewater, 1634. 
 
 Richard, lord Vaughan, carl of Carbury, 1649. 
 
 Henry Somerfet, marquis of Worcefter, 1673. 
 
 Prince Rupert, prince palatine of the Rhine. 
 
 Henry Somerfet (now) duke of Beaufort, mar- 
 quis of Worcefter, K. G. lord lieutenant of 
 the county of .Gloucefter, and of the city 
 and county of the city of BriftoL 
 
 Sir John Bridgeman. 
 
 Charles, earl of Macclesfield. 
 
 There are three principal seras pointed out by 
 the architecture, as well as the hiflory of Ludlow 
 cattle, which are interefiing to thofe who exa- 
 mine it. 
 
 The time of Roger de Monto Gomeri, who erect- 
 ed it, in fomething like its prefent form. 
 
 The period of its being fitted up for a royal 
 feat by Edward the fourth. 
 
 And 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 257 
 
 And the improvements and additions made ia 
 the days of Sir Henry Sidney. 
 
 The great tower, and apartments on the weft 
 and north-weft fides, with the circular part of the 
 chapel, are, I conceive, the work of the original 
 founder. 
 
 The buildings on the left of the entrance, and 
 fome low rooms toward the eaft fide, were pro- 
 bably the additions made to it by Edward the 
 fourth ; or built at the time it was occupied by 
 Prince Arthur : and the remainder, which in- 
 cludes the gate- way, and a long range of embat- 
 tled buildings, near the entrance of the outer 
 court, is evidently the alteration of later times, 
 
 It is recorded, that an old tower, called the 
 Magazine Tower, which ftands on the left-band 
 fide of the gate-way, was rebuilt by Sir Henry 
 Sidney : — the whole of the works are, however, 
 completely ruinous, and pi&urefquely covered 
 with ivy, whofe luxuriant foliage hangs grace- 
 fully from the roughened wall. 
 
 A gold ring, with a diamond, fet between two 
 cornelians, was found fome years fmce, and pre- 
 fented to the Earl of Powis. The guide informed 
 me, that it had a Hebrew motto, and a date ear- 
 ly in the eleventh century ; but from the account 
 
 S which 
 
258 A JOURNEY 
 
 which he gave of it, I am inclined to fuppofe, 
 that it was French in (lead of Hebrew. Some 
 pieces of coin were alfo difcovered at the fame 
 time, and feveral fculls. 
 
 Among the events which tradition has handed 
 down, relative to the cattle, is the vifit which 
 was made to it by King Charles the firft, in the 
 prefidency of Lord Bridgswaier ; but it is ren- 
 dered clailic by having been the icene of Milton's. 
 " Comus," which was written and performed for 
 the entertainment of the fame nobleman. 
 
 The fuhjecl of (he maik (as is well known) was 
 taken from a circumitance which occurred to 
 Lord Brackley*, Lady 'Alice, and the honourable 
 Thomas Egerton, fons and daughter of the Earl 
 of Bridgewater, who, in coming to Ludlow caf- 
 tle, were benighted, and loft in a wood. 
 
 At the Revolution it was found expedient to 
 diffolve the authority of the court of marches, 
 which was accordingly done, by an act of par- 
 liament, as a u great grievance and opprefiion to 
 u the fubjecl, an intollerable burden to the prin- 
 £C cipality, and a means of fupporting arbitrary 
 cs power." 
 
 Thus the iron yoke, which had fo long galled 
 the neck of the fubjecl in thefe parts, was, at 
 
 length, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 259 
 
 length, broken ; and every true patriot mud ex- 
 ult at the downfall of an authority, which had 
 been only exerted in fupport of tyranny and op- 
 prelTion. 
 
 He will walk around thefe defolated walls, and 
 triumph in their decay. His exultation will not 
 be interrupted by any circumftance of perfbnal 
 injufiice having been occafioned by their fall; 
 nor damped by the reflection, that the rights or 
 the comforts, even of a fingle individual, have 
 been facrificed* 
 
 Triumphant liberty, and the incalculable ad- 
 vantages of impartial juflice, have fucceeded to 
 a fcene of arbitrary, capricious, or vindictive 
 punifhment. The rights of pofleflion and of in- 
 heritance are now refpected, where the will of 
 the tyrant was before the only law. 
 
 Innocence no longer trembles at the mercilefs 
 tribunal of an unjuft judge; but commits her 
 caufe, with honefi confidence, to the faithful 
 and unbiased decifion of an impartial jury. 
 
 Guilt, clothed in the robe of greatnefs, or 
 
 fhielded by the influence of wealth, no longer 
 
 rears its head with prefumptuous fecurity ; no 
 
 longer fcreens itfelf from deferved punifhment, 
 
 S 2 under 
 
1 60 A JOURNEY 
 
 under the fplendid veil of rank ; nor defies 
 the authority of the law, with the fword of 
 power. 
 
 Moulder ye dreary prifons ! once the abode of 
 the oppreffed ! Perifh ye gorgeous palaces ! 
 once the feat of the oppreflor ! and as ye flowly 
 defcend into oblivion, may the decaying frag- 
 ments of your tottering walls, teach fucceeding 
 generations how to value the bleffings of that glo- 
 rious liberty, which was founded for them on your 
 ruins by the wifdom, and cemented with the 
 blood, of a brave and virtuous anceflry. 
 
 And as we venerate that wifdom, which was 
 fo nobly exerted, and revere that facred blood, 
 which our forefathers have fo copioufly and gal- 
 lantly fhed, for the benefit of their poflerity : let 
 us watch over the precious treafure which they 
 have committed to our charge, with the mo ft anx- 
 ious folicitude j— let us guard it from every fe- 
 cret encroachment !— -let us preferve it from eve- 
 ry public attack: and, having experienced the 
 happinefs and benefit of pofTefiing it ourfelves> 
 Iti us determine to hand it down to our chil- 
 dren's children, with its luftre unfullied, and its 
 energy unimpaired ! That neither the tumult 
 
 of 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 20~I 
 
 jdF factious inquietude, nor the rage of party zeal, 
 nor the ambitious defigns of corrupt minifters, 
 mav at any time reftrain the free exercife of all 
 thofe civil and religious rights, for which cur 
 forefathers fought and died ; nor abridge that 
 liberty, which has been pur chafed by fo dear a 
 facrifice. 
 
 The Guild-hall of Lt/dlow is a handfome mo- 
 dern edince, fituated in a well-built, but retired 
 flreet, not far from the caflle: and it is to be 
 mentioned, to the great honour of the opulent 
 and refpectable corporation, that the town is in- 
 debted to their munificence for a bridge, an 
 alms-houfe, and a town-hall, erected within the 
 compass of a few years :— an example of libera- 
 lity and generous concern for the public advan- 
 tage, which reflects honour on themfelves, and 
 affords a ufeful example for the imitation of 
 others. 
 
 The corporations of this country, as remnants 
 of the feudal fyftem, and as bodies of men, privi- 
 ledged above their fellow fubjects, for very often 
 imaginary reafons ; or, what is dill worfe, for 
 mean and unbecoming fubmiflions to arbitrary 
 power, for fervile attachment to the worft of 
 S 3 men 9 
 
062 A JOURNEY 
 
 men, in the worft of times, have been regarded 
 with a jealous eye ever fince liberty began to be 
 rightly underflood, and duly ePdmated among us. 
 The innumerable abufes which have been 
 cheriihed in thefe hot-beds of ariftocracy, call 
 loudly for the attention of the legiflature ; and, 
 while every poflible degree of vigour is given to 
 the executive government, by (trengthening the 
 hands of adminiftration 3 when extraordinary 
 powers are really neceffary, the wifdom of par- 
 liament is deeply concerned in preventing, by 
 falutary regulations, the pernicious effects of 
 that uncontrouled authority, which, in many 
 corporations, is lodged in unworthy hands, and 
 too often exerted to the prejudice, rather than 
 the benefit m the community ; for however men 
 may differ in determining the meafures of civil 
 obedience to fovereign power, they mud all 
 agree in detefting oppreffion and tyranny, as 
 contrary to the proper ends of government, 
 which is confeffedly defigned for the protection 
 and fecurity, and not for the deftruction of man- 
 kind. 
 
 City luxury, feafting, and extravagance, 
 though fo common as to have become pro- 
 verbial. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2,6$ 
 
 verbial, and notwithstanding they bave no direcl 
 tendency to increafe the comforts of the poor, 
 or promote good morals in the world, are not 
 •the worft abufes to which corporations are fub- 
 ject : for, to fay nothing of undue influence 
 and bribery at elections, of unfair patro 
 and of the impolicy, as well as injuftice of fub- 
 •mitting the intereils of the many, to the abfo- 
 lute coniroul of a few, it is to be feared, that 
 jiot only the revenues of eftates which are veiled 
 in fome corporations for the public advantage, 
 but that the income of charities placed under 
 their guidance and direction, for the comfort of 
 the poor, are. fometimes applied to the ufe of in- 
 .dividuals, whofe rneannefs tempts them to pil- 
 fer, and whofe fituatioxxs fcreen them from pu* 
 nifhment. 
 
 For one inftance, like that of Ludlow? where 
 the corporation has uniformly evinced a truly 
 patriotic and liberal philanthropy, a thoufand 
 might be adduced, where neither patriotifm 
 nor philanthropy have been fo ranch as heard 
 of; but where feif intereft grafps at exorbitant 
 authority, and ufurps the place of every nnb'e 
 and generous fentiraent. ~ 
 
264 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Stole Cafile, — Downton. — Return to Ludlow, 
 
 jt* rom Ludlow we made an excurfion to Stole 
 Cqftle, an ancient ruin, and Downton Cqftle^ a 
 modern feat. 
 
 Patted Bromfield, a fmall village, with an old 
 bridge over the Teme ; and purfuing the Shrews- 
 bury road, enjoyed a pleafing view of the courfe 
 of the river, which flows rapidly at the foot of 
 a fine range of hills, beautifully wooded. 
 
 Stoke Caftle (lands on the margin of the Teme, 
 and may be confidered as a pi&urefque ruin, 
 but its glory is fo much eclipfed by the fplendor, 
 magnitude, and commanding fituation of Ludlow 
 Caftle, that it is feldom noticed. 
 
 CrofTed the Teme by another bridge, accom- 
 panied with a fort of cafcade, formed by dividing 
 the Itream, for the purpofe of turning a mill. 
 
 Some rough rocks are feen among the wood, 
 on the left, and here and there the fpiral fmoke 
 afcends from the lime kilns, and diverfifies the 
 
 profpeft 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 265 
 
 profpecl. On the right is a lofty mountain, 
 dotted with fheep, and crowned with a chaplet 
 of rocks. 
 
 At the diftance of feven miles from Ludlow, 
 there is an ohelifk, on which are engraven the 
 admeafured diftances to forty eight different 
 cities and towns. 
 
 Returning by the fame road, we turned into 
 a dirty lane on the right, paffed a deep and nar- 
 row valley, full of wood, crofTed a turnpike 
 road, and foon arrived at the feat of Richard 
 Payne Knight, Efq. 
 
 Mr. Shaw in his " Tour through the Weft of 
 « England" has been quoted as mentioning 
 Downfall Caftle in a flyle of panegyric, at which 
 confidering the tafte and abilities of that gentle- 
 man, and the general impartiality of his defcrip- 
 tions, I can not but exprefs my furprife. 
 
 He fays, that the proprietor, " Mr. Knight, 
 " having feen mod of the beft edifices, both an- 
 " cient and modern, had collected divers hints 
 < c from the various ftyles of building, from 
 " which he determined to raife fomething to re- 
 " femble the habitations of the ancient Barons ; 
 fC and fucceeded, fo as to be the admiration of 
 *< all viators." 
 
 That 
 
0.66 A JOURNEY 
 
 That a fum little fhort of fixty thoufand 
 pounds (which Downton caftle is faid to have 
 cofl) fhouid have been capable of raifing a ftruc* 
 lure fomething like an ancient baronial refidence, 
 is not at all furprifing, as there are fo many mo- 
 dels of that fpecies of building, whofe plan is 
 yet eafily to be traced in various parts of Great 
 Britain, as well as in foreign countries. But 
 that fo large a fum could have been laid out 9 
 with fuch an object folely and entirely in view; — 
 with fo many advantages refulting from the aid 
 of genius and tafte, every day improving ;— 
 with fo much afiiftance from the beautiful and va ? 
 ried fcenery around the fpot ;— >and all to no 
 better purpofe, is to me, indeed, a matter of 
 real aftonifhment. 
 
 Before we vifited Downton I could not help re- 
 marking, that the man who prefumed to imitate 
 an ancient caftle, within an hour's ride of Ludlow, 
 ought at lead to poifefs no fmall fhare of that 
 fpecies of fortitude which would enable him to 
 withftand the criticifm of thofe who might be 
 inclined to view it with a fcrutinizing eye; becaufe 
 the perfect fpecimen of feudal fplendor which 
 Ludlow caftle furniftied as a model, would be 
 frelh in the memory of almofl every traveller 
 
 likely 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 267 
 
 likely to vifit Dowriton ; and, in a certain degree, 
 
 would enable even very unfkilful perfons to form 
 
 a tolerable judgment of the comparative merits 
 
 of the imitation. 
 I 
 
 But whatever might be my ideas on the fub- 
 jecl, or whatever impreffion might have been 
 made on my mind by the lively panegyric and 
 flattering encomia of Mr. Shaw and Mr. Cum- 
 berland, I mall endeavour faithfully to defcribe 
 the appearances of this very extraordinary place, 
 and leave my readers to form their own conclu- 
 fions as to the' confiftency of the plan, and the 
 merits of its execution. 
 
 Downton caftle (lands on an eminence, com- 
 manding a beautiful view of a fmall, but elegant 
 valley, through which the river Teme winds, 
 with a fweep which appears rather artificial. 
 
 The oppofite bank is (budded with trees, decked 
 with groves, and ornamented with a rich diver- 
 fity of interefting objects. 
 
 On the right, what is called an Alpine bridge 
 crofTes the 'Feme, clofe to a neat cottage, which, 
 I believe, ferves for a lodge. 
 
 In approaching the houfe we pafTed through a 
 deep and fhady glen, at the bottom of which a 
 
 fmall 
 
C6$> A JOURNEY 
 
 fmall noify ft ream rufhes impetuguily among 
 the rocks and ftones. 
 
 The ftable firfl prefented itfelf, — a long regu- 
 lar building, with' an embattled parapet and 3. 
 double row of gothic windows. 
 
 We entered through a modern iron gate to 
 the fouth-weft front, which may be called regu- 
 larly irregular ; for it confifts of feveral parts, 
 each diffimilar to the others, but each uniform 
 in its own parts. 
 
 It is embattled, and built with (lone, in which 
 particulars only it can, with propriety, be faid 
 to refemble an ancient caftle ; for the windows 
 are all fquare modern fames, and the door-way 
 is equally fafhionable, and equally inconfiftent. 
 
 One of the angles of the building is terminated 
 by an octagon tower, the other by a diminutive 
 circular turret, containing a clofet with a fquare 
 fafti- window. 
 
 Nothing within fight of the building bears 
 the fmallefl appearance of the antique, — nothing 
 in the interior has any relationfhip to the ftately 
 and magnificent fabrics of ancient days, unlefs 
 we except the gloominefs of the dining room, 
 which occupies the greater of the two towers, 
 and is the largeft apartment in the houfe. 
 
 This 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 269 
 
 This room is circular, and I believe (for the 
 guide was unable to convey the fmallefl particle 
 of information refpecting that, or any other cir- 
 cumftance) about twenty-eight or thirty feet in 
 diameter, with four receffes, furnifhed with as 
 many fide-boards, between very large pillars, 
 placed in couples. 
 
 An organ (lands on the fide oppofite to the 
 window ; and the ceiling rifes into a dome, with 
 a lanthorn on the top. Four niches above the 
 fide-boards are filled with bronze flatues. 
 
 The reft of the apartments are commodious, 
 but not particularly finking, and the whole range 
 is terminated by the fmall round tower before 
 mentioned. 
 
 In the library, which is too fmall to contain 
 the books belonging to it, is a picture of Mr. 
 Knight, the proprietor of the manfion, who is 
 the author of feveral literary performances of 
 great merit, and a gentleman whofe private cha- 
 racter and domeftic worth, are univerfally ap- 
 plauded. 
 
 The bed chambers are well-finifhed and ele- 
 gant apartments, and one of them has a very 
 rich chintz bed in a recefs, ornamented with pil- 
 lars and piladers of the Tufcan order, whofe 
 
 bafes 
 
'2JO A JOURNEY 
 
 bafes and capitals are of the mod delicate white 
 marble, exquifitely poliflied. 
 
 The plantations which immediately furround 
 Downton, are elegantly difpofed 3 and would re* 
 He£l credit on the place if the appellation of Caf- 
 ile had not been afiumed. It would, however, 
 be very eafy, by levelling the battlements, and 
 removing the towers, to convert into a modern 
 looking houfe, that which is fo very improperly 
 termed Downton Cqflk. 
 
 Nature has lavifhed the charms of wood, wa- 
 ter, hill, and valley, with all the beautiful irregu- 
 larity of her own fimple and unrivalled elegance, 
 on the neighbouring country ; and if Mr. Knight 
 had expended half the fum which it has cod him 
 to provoke fatirical reflections on his extraordi- 
 nary tafte in building, in repairing the roads near 
 his feat, he might have poffefled one of the moft 
 elegant and complete refidences, — one of the 
 prettied villas which this country can boaft, 
 without the mortification of finding every vifkor 
 a critic, — without incurring the frowns of the 
 fadidious,— -or provoking a comparifon of this 
 trwnved imitation of the ancients, with works 
 which muPc every day bring it not only into dif- 
 repute, but even into contempt. 
 
 On 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 1J I 
 
 On our return from Dozunton^ by another 
 road, a fmall and beautiful lake attracted our 
 notice, inclofed with a plantation of iirs and 
 larch trees ; and not far from it, a much lefs 
 pleafing object caught the attention, and (hewed 
 the different impreflions which the mimic efforts 
 cjf art, and the ftriking fimplicity of nature, are 
 capable of producing : — this is, I believe, another 
 of Mr. Knlghfs prettyifms, — a farm-houfe, fitted 
 up to refemble a church ; but whofe agricultural 
 appendages foon undeceive the eye, and prefently 
 make it appear as much unlike the holy edifice 
 it mocks, as the modern-antique manfion of 
 Downtcn is unworthy of the dignified title of a 
 caftle. 
 
 The bold eminencies on our right, robed in a 
 mantle of wood, and fkirted with meadows of 
 the livelier! verdure, through which the Terrie 
 winds its courfe, by the Me of the road, are ob- 
 jects fufficiently beautiful to imprefs the mind in 
 the mod forcible and agreeable manner. 
 
 After croffing another bridge, clofe to a mill, 
 and a cafcade, entered Oakley Park, the feat of 
 the Dowager Lady Cli-ve. 
 
 The park is varied with feveral gentle fwells, 
 
 and laid out, on the eaftern fide, with elegant 
 
 i plantations, 
 
2^2 A JOURNEY 
 
 plantations) which are confiderably improved bf 
 the meanders of the river ; but it is mod remark- 
 able for the rich fcenery of its majeflic oaks, 
 which are profufely fprinkled over the grounds 3 
 in the height of fylvan beauty. 
 
 Here, " in Elyfian vales young zephyrs fling 
 <c .Ambroiial fweets, amid perpetual fpring ; 
 " And from furrounding groves, where diftant views 
 ei Difplay their velvet tufts in golden hues, 
 " i\.ll-foothing harmony iteals forth to bear 
 " Her founds feraphic to the melting ear." 
 
 The houfe is a neat brick building, and is faid 
 to contain fome good paintings, but they are not 
 fhewn to flrangers. 
 
 Regained the road, and foo-n approached Lud- 
 low, whofe fine old caille, proudly towering over 
 the vale, and the gentle Teme, which glides be- 
 neath its ruins, again called forth our admiration 
 and delight, and carried our imagination back 
 to the romantic days of its primeval greatnefs. 
 
 The fun was declining, and the rolling clouds, 
 furled in tremendous fhapes juft above the hori- 
 zon, difplayed the fine bold line which marks 
 the fummit of Caer Caradoc, and the neighbour- 
 ing mountains. 
 
 On 
 
INTO SOUTH WALE?* 273 
 
 On our right the wood of White Cliff brought 
 the revelry of Comus^ and his midnight crew* 
 frefh into the memory ; while the lowing kine, 
 difperfed thro&gh the meadows, and the mufic 
 of diflant bells, foothed the mind into calm tran- 
 quillity, and prepared it for the ftillnefs of eve- 
 ning. 
 
 <l Now fades the glimmering landfcape on the fight, 
 <l And all the air a folemn itillnefs holds, 
 " Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, 
 u And drowfy tinklings lull the diftant folds : 
 
 *' Save that from yonder ivy-mantle J tower 
 " The moping owl does to the moon complain, 
 et Of fuch as wand'ring near her fecret bower, 
 " Molefl her ancient folitary reign. " 
 
 The reader will recoiled* that Caer Caradoc 
 was the poft affumed by the brave Caraclacus 9 
 before his engagement with Ojlorius Scapula. 
 
274 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. * 
 
 Road from Ludlow to Bridgenorth-~<witb fame Account of the 
 
 latter. 
 
 Having at laft taken leave of Ludlow we pur- 
 foed our journey by the road to Bridgenorth? 
 firft afceriding very gradually for' a mile or two, 
 and afterwards winding round the foot of the 
 Clee hills. 
 
 " Diftant views of the Welch mountains, of 
 Malvern, in Worceflerjloire, and of the noble 
 Wrekin, the gloiy of Shropjhire, fuccefiively of- 
 fered themfelves, as we approached the fummit 
 of a lofty hill ; and having parTed it, became 
 gradually obfcure, as the obje&s on the eaftern 
 fide grew more diftincl. 
 
 The firft building which we diftinguifhed in 
 the neighbourhood of Bridgenorth, was a hand* 
 fome new church at the end of the town : and 
 having amufed ourfelves with tracing the courfe 
 of the Severn among the fields, we made our 
 entrance through a crooked ill-paved ftreet, which 
 leads to the market-place. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. ZJ $ 
 
 The town covers a confiderable extent of 
 ground, and being built clofe to, and upon the 
 river's bank, many of the (treets and lanes are 
 fo deep, that it is both difficult and dangerous to 
 ride through them ; and the narrow alleys, in 
 many inftances, confifl of a long flight of, per- 
 haps, an hundred and fifty fleps. 
 
 The old church, which (lands in the weftern 
 part of the town, has a large fquare tower, built 
 with reddiOi Hone ; but the church has a very 
 mean appearance, from being repaired with brick 
 work. It is large, and fitted up with galleries, 
 but has neither monuments nor painted glafs re- 
 maining, having fuffered greatly in the days of 
 Cromwell. 
 
 Over the gate of an alms-houfe, in no good 
 condition, is an infcription, fetting forth that it 
 was erected for " the reception of ten poor wi- 
 " dows, by the Reverend Francis Palmer, rector 
 " of Sandy, in Bedford/hire, who had an afTec- 
 " tion for this place, becaufe his mother was 
 " buried here ;" and that fhe was the filter of 
 Colonel Francis Billing/ley, of Abbots Ajlley, in 
 this county, who was flam in the church-yard 
 here, fighting for his royal matter, King Charles 
 the firft. 
 
 T 2 The 
 
£j6 A JOURNEY 
 
 The new church has been erected only a few 
 months. luftands on a terrace on the bank of 
 the Severn, and has an agreeable walk carried 
 round it, which commands a pleafing view of 
 the fine meadows by the Severn-fide, and the 
 bold, but dreary ridge which forms its eaflera 
 bank. 
 
 The fite of the cadle is partly occupied by the 
 new church, and partly by a fchooi at the ea(i 
 end of it. A few fragments only remain, the 
 wreck of its former iirength. 
 
 A leaning tower, which fuftained a violent 
 attack of the parliamentary forces in the Rebel- 
 lion, is partly Handing. Its height is about 
 thirty feet, and having flipped off its bafis, it 
 declines at lean 1 ten from the perpendicular. 
 The appearance of it is Angular, but the diflor- 
 tion of its pofture offends the eye. It has often 
 brought to the recollection of the traveller the 
 famous leaning tower at Pi/a, in Italy, which, 
 Mrs. Piozzl fays, does not decline from the 
 perpendicular more than this. 
 
 Henry the firft befieged Bridge, or Bridge- 
 north, with fuccefs, it being then a fortrefs of 
 confiderable flrength; and in the reign of King 
 Richard the fecond, the cuftody of it was com- 
 mitted 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 277 
 
 mitted to Hugh de Burnell, a favourite of that 
 monarch, who lies buried at Hales Owen, in this 
 county. It is faid to have been built by Elfleda, 
 Queen of the Mercians, and completed about 
 the eleventh century. 
 
 Several bombs have been dug up here, and the 
 combuftibles remained per feci:, having been ac- 
 cidentally prevented from going off. 
 
 The Severn is neither very deep nor rapid, 
 but its dream rolls gracefully along, and after 
 p ailing a rocky cliff, runs under the bridge, 
 which is long and narrow ; and forms a fmali 
 ifland, planted with fruit trees. 
 
 To the river, in this place, may be defervedly 
 applied thofe matchlefs lines of Sir John Den- 
 ham. 
 
 " Though deep, yet. clear, though gentle, yet not dull ; 
 *' Strong, . without rage, without o'erilowing, full." 
 
 We crofTed the Severn, and from the oppofite 
 bank were gratified with a fine profpect of the 
 town, the churches, the bridge, and the river, 
 . with the gardens that adorn its banks. 
 
 The high cliff, on which fome of the houfes 
 
 are built, and the different /helving ledges which 
 
 fupport others, are variegated by the romantic 
 
 T 3 appear- 
 
278 A JOURNEY 
 
 appearance of the face of the rock, and the in- 
 termixture of trees and gardens. 
 
 At the verge of the town, entered on a com- 
 mon, the foil of which is fandy, and its covering 
 a foft green turf. On the right, a village church 
 rears its modeft fpire, not far from the banks of 
 the Severn, which foon deviates towards the 
 fouth, and is loft among the meadows. 
 
 Having gained the fummit of an eminence, we 
 found ourfeives on a race-courfe, the extent of 
 which we could not trace, but obferved that this 
 part of it was undermined with rabbits. 
 
 A fide view of a flip of cultivated and populous 
 country interpofed between this dreary region 
 and the lofty hills on the weftern horizon, has a 
 pleafing effect ; and at fome diftance from the 
 road, in an oppofite direction, is a handfome 
 houfe, embowered among (lately trees ; and near 
 it, the fpire of the church darts out of a plantation. 
 
 The fheep fed here, appear of a larger breed 
 than thofe in the weftern parts, and are of the 
 horned kind. 
 
 Fern and furze, or, as it is termed, gorfe grows 
 fo abundantly, that the occupiers of the land 
 confume it, without cutting. 
 
 We 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 27 9 
 
 We faw none on fire, but large patches on ill 
 fides had been lately burnt, as we were convinced 
 by the fmelL 
 
 Thi^ practice feems to have been general for 
 ages, for when King Charles ihe fir ft honoured 
 tht neighbouring county or Stafford with a vifir, 
 th High Sheriff received a letter from the Earl 
 of Pembroke and Montgomery, commanding him 
 to direct the inhabitants of thofe parts to forbear 
 the burning of ruize and fern, during his Ma- 
 jefty's progrefs, left it (hould occafionrain, agree- 
 able to an opinion long eftablifhed in Stafford/hire. 
 
 X 4 
 
28o A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 Termination of the Ride to Dudley. — Himley. — Dudley Cajih. 
 — ReJlefiwn Sm 
 
 The morning was calm, but the clouds refted 
 on the fummit of the hills behind us : hitherto, 
 however, the threatened fhower had not reached 
 us ; but the bleating of fheep on the heath, the 
 lowing of cattle in the diftant paftures, the yelp* 
 ing of mepherds' dogs, and the (till more cer- 
 tain fignal'which was difplayed on the top of the 
 hills, bade us fpeedily expect it. At laft down, 
 it poured with raging impetuofity. 
 
 " A burft of rain 
 u Swept from the black horizon, broad defcends A 
 i( In one continuous flood. Still over head, 
 " The mingling tempeft weaves its gloom, and ftilj 
 * f The deluge deepens, till the fields around 
 « Lie funk, and flatted in the fordid wave." 
 
 At the termination of the common over which 
 we were palling, is a rifing ground, which af- 
 fords a retrofpe&ive glimpfe of the town of Bridge- 
 north : and now we entered the enclofures, and 
 
 foou 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 28 1 
 
 foon arrived at a crofting of the road, where we 
 turned to the left for Dudley, in Worcefterfhire* 
 
 A narrow lane conducted us to Bovingdon, a 
 fmall village, with a neat church, whimfkally 
 furmounted with four balls, and fituated clofe to 
 a handfome piece of water, which feems to be 
 kept with as great neatnefs, as if it belonged to 
 a nobleman's park, though I believe it, in truth, 
 ranks no higher at prefent, than a mill-pond. 
 
 Farther on, is an old family feat with a lake, 
 and a fhort avenue leading to it ; and contigu- 
 ous, a well-built modern farm-houfe. 
 
 Near this is Blake-lands, the manfion of Mr* 
 Marran, whofe achievement was over the 
 door. 
 
 Having pafifed a few draggling houfes, which 
 belong to the village of Bovingdon, we entered 
 on another common, covered with fhort heath, 
 of a mod difmal uninviting colour. 
 
 The fields on the left are, indeed, in tillage, 
 but do not exhibit the appearance of fertility. 
 
 The afpect of every thing around us, the co- 
 lour of the roads, and the fmutty faces of the 
 children, who occafionally parTed by, informed 
 us, that we had reached 
 
 " The dark Vulcanian land." 
 
 where 
 
282 A JOURNEY 
 
 where the fons of labour, and the daughters of 
 induftry, a hardy race, have fixed their abode ; 
 while the thundcrings of the anvils greeted our 
 approach. 
 
 The road are chiefly repaired with the drofs, 
 afhes, and cinders of the forges ; and the colour 
 of the ground, where its furface is denuded of 
 the natural covering, is nearly as black as the 
 mineral which is dug from its in mod bowels. 
 
 Sir Robert Atkins , author of '" a Hiftory of 
 " Gloucejlerjhire" fays, that if a line were laid 
 from the mouth of the Severn to Newcaflle, and 
 fo paifed round the globe, coal is to be found 
 withi'n a degree of that line, and fcarcely in any 
 other part of the world. The affertion certainly 
 wants proof, and mud for ever want it ; but the 
 thought deferves the attention of philofophers. 
 It is certain, that if a line be drawn from Dor- 
 chefler, in Dorfeijhire, to the Wafh between Lin* 
 coin/hire and Norfolk, all the beds of chalk met 
 with in this iiland, are to be found on the fouth- 
 eaft fide of that line. 
 
 Rode through H'miley, where is a fpacious park, 
 and elegant feat ot Lore Vi!count Dudley and 
 Ward, a nobleman whole am able manners, li- 
 beral conduct, and benevolent difpoiition, are 
 
 far 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 283 
 
 far more illuftrious, than all the dignity of birth, 
 or the fplenciour of tirles ; for they have only a 
 claim to exterior refpecT* while u we referve our 
 " efteem and veneration for mining talents, and 
 " meritorious fervices." 
 
 rt To birth, wealth, pow'r, we fhould allow 
 M Precedence, and our lowed bow ; . 
 <c In that is due diltinclion ftiewn : 
 " Efteem is Virtue's right alone." 
 
 Himley-Hall (lands on a beautiful lawn, richly 
 fprinkled with trees and decorated with a hand- 
 fome piece of water ; and at the foot of a ma* 
 jeftic Hope, covered with a fhady grove. 
 
 Ci A bubbling fount diftills 
 " A lucid lake, and thence defcends in rills ; 
 " Around the grove a mead with lively green, 
 ct Falls by degrees, and forms a beauteous feene.'* 
 
 We pafTed through a populous and bufy coun- 
 try to Dudley, and entered the town through a 
 dirty, but tolerably well-built ilreet. 
 
 As a place of great trade, it is rich, flourifh- 
 ing, and refpectable ; and its cattle and priory 
 have a claim to regard, from their antiquity. 
 
 The caftle is fituated on an eminence, at the 
 fouth-eaftern extremity of the town ; and retains 
 
 the appearance of great ftrength. 
 
 We 
 
£' 
 
 O.S4 A JOURNEY 
 
 We approached it by a gate-way, near twenty 
 feet in height, which is the entrance to the Bar- 
 bican, and palled three other gate-ways, before 
 we reached the inner court. 
 
 The walls are of immenfe thicknefs ; but the 
 general appearance of the building indicates it 
 to be more modern than the keep, which occu- 
 pies an artificial mount at the north-wed corner, 
 and confifls of the remains of two circular tow- 
 ers, connected with low walls, in which is an 
 arched entrance, not more than fix feet high. 
 
 A pretty exact idea may be formed of the ori- 
 ginal flate of this part of the ruin ; for it is ai- 
 moft a complete fe&ion, from top to bottom, of 
 the ancient building. 
 
 There is an entrance gate on the eaft fide, and 
 a range of apartments extends from it, along 
 the fouth wall. 
 
 Thefe rooms, which are of various fizes, have 
 been habitable within the prefent century, but 
 were accidentally confumed by fire. 
 
 It is difficult to afcertain the original ufes of 
 the feveral apartments ; and the appellations by 
 which our guide diflinguiihed them, did not at 
 ^11 elucidate their hiftory. 
 
 We 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 28j 
 
 We-heard fomething of a great hall, and a ta- 
 ble five and twenty yards long ; but there is no 
 fingle apartment at prefent remaining, of half that 
 extent. The kitchen is, however, a large room, 
 and has very capacious fire places. 
 
 Under the keep is a vaulted apartment, pro- 
 bably intended as a lad refuge for the befieged, 
 or perhaps a dungeon for prifoners. It is ffrong 
 enough for the former, and gloomy enough for 
 the latter purpofe. 
 
 A fmall round tower has been erecled at the 
 fouth-weft angle of the outer wall, which appears 
 to have been founded on the ruins of a more an- 
 cient building. 
 
 Dudley caftle was one of the few fortrefTes 
 which were built in the time of the Saxons ; or 
 rather, it is one of a very few which remain at 
 prefent. 
 
 The etymology of proper names is not only 
 difficult to be traced, but uncertain in the con- 
 clufions to which it often leads. The foundation 
 of this place has been attributed to a great man, 
 whofe name was Dudo, or Dodo. 
 
 Odo and Dodo were brothers of a great Mer- 
 cian houfe, and lived at the beginning of the 
 eighth century. They were the reputed founders 
 i of 
 
226 A JOURNEY 
 
 of Tewkejbury abbey, and are faid to have been 
 buried at Per/bore, in IVorceJierJhire. Lord Vif- 
 count Dudley and Ward has a portrait of Dudo, 
 on which he is filled Earl of Coventrie Sommerie 
 and Arden. 
 
 It is certain, that Dudley caflle was bellowed 
 by the Conqueror on William Fitz-Aufculph ; that 
 It was held for the Emprefs Maud, againft King 
 Stephen, and difmantled by Henry the fecond. 
 
 It was veiled in the family of Sutton, in the 
 reign of Queen Mary, and now gives the rank 
 of Vifcount to that of Ward, by the title of Vif- 
 count Dudley and Ward, of Dudley, 
 
 The caflle (lands on an eminence, about a hun- 
 dred feet above the neighbouring plain ; and it 
 was fecured on the eaft and fouth fides by a dou- 
 ble vallum of considerable depth. 
 
 We walked round the ruins, and enjoyed a de- 
 licious profpecl of the country below. No part 
 of England, excepting the immediate vicinity of 
 the metropolis, can vie with this in the imrnen- 
 fity of its population. The whole furface of the 
 country is not merely fprinkled with houfes and 
 manufactories, but thick fat with towns, as far 
 as the eye can reach. 
 
 A fine 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 287 
 
 A fine broad canal is feen vifiting with its ma- 
 zy windings a thoufand forges, the founding of 
 whofe repurcufiive anvils difturbs even the me- 
 lancholy haunts of Dudley cattle, and its tottering 
 towers. 
 
 Once, perhaps, might this proud dwelling 
 frown over the vaft expanfe, in all the fovereignty 
 of feudal pre-eminence. Htr mighty lords here 
 . alTembled their vaffals and dependants ; and from 
 thefe courts ifTued the dread fentences of arbitra- 
 ry punifhment, to all around them. 
 
 The winding glade was fertilized for them ; 
 and the wild native of the foreft bled for them 
 alone. Nobles here cringed in mean fervility, or 
 expiated the debt of fealty in galling chains and 
 dreary folitude. 
 
 How varied now the pleafing fcene ! A prof- 
 peel wide extending, of induftrious opulence ! 
 No proud, oppreiTive, or vindictive baron now 
 rules thefe plains ; but induftry wields her fcep- 
 tre in fecurity and peace. Diligence and inte- 
 grity fupport her throne ; wealth and honour are 
 her attendants. By her, the gloom of poverty 
 is dirlipated ; and the miferies of want are driven 
 from the land : and, where was formerly [em 
 
 "the 
 
2f>8 A JOtJRNEV 
 
 the profufely decked table of one great and 
 boafling peer, thoufands of frugal, but of cheer- 
 ful boards now fmoke with the homely, but fuf- 
 ficient fare of the mechanic and the manufac- 
 turer. 
 
 " 'Tis indurhy fupplies 
 gi The little temperance wants; and rofy health 
 " Sits fmtling at the board." 
 
 In the quarries of lime-ftone neat the fite of 
 Dudley caftle, many curiofities have been found. 
 The figures of (hells, and of infects are very com- 
 mon } and fome, of the bodies of locufts, have 
 been difcovered in great perfection. 
 
 Thefe have been indifcriminately called " the 
 " Dudley foffil ; M but the locufl ftone is the mod 
 rare and curious. 
 
 The ruins of the ancient priory are feen at 
 the foot of the hill,- which is the fite of the caftle, 
 but in a dilapidated condition. 
 
 Taking leave of Dudley we paffed through the 
 populous and induflrious country before-men- 
 tioned, and purfued the road to Birmingham, 
 amidft innumerable manufactories, engines, ma* 
 chines, and carriages. 
 
 At Tipton, 2l thriving village, two miles from 
 Dudley ; and, in fhort, on all fides to which you 
 
 turn 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 289 
 
 turn your, eyes, the foioke of the forges afcends 
 in copious volumes, and the noify anvils ring. 
 
 The iron-mafters, to whom all the powers of 
 mechanifm *are obedient, have filled this whole 
 neighbourhood with wealth and induftry ; and 
 the population is almoft incalculable. 
 
 " Toil and be glad ! let induftry infpire 
 u Into your quicken'd limbs, his buoyant breath : 
 " Who does net a£t, is dead." 
 
 The contrail between this part of the country, 
 which really fwarms with inhabitants, and the 
 defer ts of Cwm-Tytbe?t, in Wales, afforded a fe- 
 ries of interefling reflections. 
 
 The objects offered to our contemplation in 
 that dreary wafte, were grand, ftriking, and ma- 
 jeflic ! The abrupt precipice nodded over our 
 heads in awful fublimity. The hills upreared 
 their broad and fhaggy fides, and feemed to 
 prop the Heavens. Down, with refiftlefs force, 
 defcended the roaring cataract from the moun- 
 tain's brow, and thundered through its craggy 
 bed. 
 
 There the eye is loft in the immenfity of the 
 ruffet expanfe ; and the diftant horizon is 
 ftirouded in a melancholy gloom. 
 
 U No 
 
290 A JOURNEY 
 
 No voice is heard, fave the refponfive ech*y 
 to the torrent's roar, and the howlings of the 
 northern blaft. Solitude fits enthroned in the 
 dreary caverns of the defert, or (talks in awful 
 majefty over the bare and rugged rocks ! The 
 clouds his mantle ! and his pavillion the dark 
 recefles of nature ! Far, far away is chafed the 
 animal creation ; and man, fearful to encroach 
 on the limits of this dread domain, juft ven- 
 tures to caft an eye over the gloomy territory, 
 and then flies to the comforts and enjoyments 
 of focial life. 
 
 Here the wild fcenery of the rocks and moun- 
 tains, and the fterility of the defert are exchanged 
 for the thronged city, and the crowded haunts 
 of men, for a widely-extended profpect of arts, 
 induftry, and cultivation, 
 
 « 'till all 
 « The ftretching landicape into fnioke decays." 
 
 But while we admire the advancement of the 
 arts, and the rapid improvements which beautify 
 the face of the country, we can not but feel a 
 degree of difguft as well as furprife, at the coarfe- 
 nefs of dialecl; which prevails here, where every 
 found is " corruption, barbarifm, and vulgarity 
 
 33 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2gi 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 As we approached Birmingham, the road was 
 obfcured with clouds of duft, and almofl: choked 
 up by the multitude of paffengers. 
 
 Boulton and Watt, two of the greateft manu- 
 facturers in the kingdom, have prodigious works 
 at Soho, about two miles from the town ; and 
 the former refides on the fpot, in a very hand- 
 fome houfe, furrounded by thriving plantations. 
 
 The mint here is extremely curious ; but the 
 whole procefs of the mechanical arts, as con- 
 ducted with the afliftance of that profufion of 
 machinery which is now in ufe, is fo wonderful, 
 that it is impoffible to convey any tolerable idea 
 of this complex fubjecl. 
 
 Before we entered the town, the artificial ruin 
 of a monadic edifice, called Hockley Abbey, built 
 with cinders and vitrifications, at no great dif- 
 tance from the road, but half hidden by the en- 
 circling ivy, evinced a degree of tafte in whofe 
 u 2 who 
 
292 A JOURNEY 
 
 who defigned it, which it would be illiberal to 
 pafs by without notice. 
 
 <c Hail ! gentle pair, with genuine talle renn'd, 
 " Who deck'd this grot, and rear'd thefe antique tow'rs ; 
 il Round the feign 'd time -fliook walls, the ivy twin'd, 
 6t And taught the trees to form thefe friendly bow , rs> 
 * * # # *• 
 
 <{ Here let the mufe's penfive vot'ry ftray, 
 
 *' To whom fuch tranquil fcenes are ever dear; 
 
 ** Far hence, wild diffipation ! (hape thy way, 
 
 " Virtue and Peace alone are licens'd here." 
 
 Birmingham has all the advantages of a dry,, 
 healthy, and pieafant fituation, fuperadded to 
 that of coal mines in the immediate vicinity. It 
 is the grand emporium of induftry and arts. Illi- 
 berality has branded it with contemptuous epi- 
 thets ; and one gentleman, who ought to have 
 remembered, that the very fame indecency pre- 
 vails at his beloved Oxford, has been very fevere 
 on the circumflance of public path-ways being 
 permitted to crofs the church -yards. 
 
 It is true that there are abundance of difTenters 
 at this place ; but it is not true, that there is 
 very little regard for religion here> a remark "of 
 which the author who firft broached it, ought 
 to be afhamed. I do not think that there would 
 
 be 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 293 
 
 be more religion, if there were fewer fe&aries : 
 but on the other hand, I believe there would be 
 lefs. 
 
 That religion has fome influence on the minds 
 of the people, may be gathered from the honefty 
 of their dealings, from the induftry of all clafTes, 
 and from the alacrity with which they fupport 
 public charities. 
 
 " When the rich fhare part of their fuperflui- 
 " ties with the indigent ; when the healthy, by 
 " their labours, contribute to fuccour the feeble 
 C£ and diftreffed, then humanity performs the 
 " bed offices of fociety." 
 
 The General Hofpital erected here about twen- 
 ty years ago, though not built at the fole expence 
 of the town, owes its chief fupport to the bene- 
 ficence of the inhabitants. 
 
 " It is a worthy edifying fight, 
 *• And gives to human kind peculiar grace, 
 V To fee kind hands attending day and night, 
 ** With tender miniflry, from place to place : 
 
 fc " Some prop the head ; fome from the pallid face 
 •' Wipe off the faint cold dews weak nature fheds : 
 
 ' " Some reach the healing draught ; the whilft to chafe 
 " The fear fupreme around their foften'd beds, 
 '* Some holy man by prayer, all opening Heaven di- 
 " fpreds." 
 
 u 3 m* 
 
294 A JOURNEY 
 
 Birmingham contains many elegant buildings, 
 particularly St. Philip's Church, and the Thea- 
 tre : but it is without the convenience of flag- 
 ftones. 
 
 Population has been neceflarily diminifhed 
 here, in a very confiderable degree, fince the be- 
 ginning of the war ; although fome branches of 
 the iron manufactory have been much benefited 
 and increafed. 
 
 In new flreet is a large building, liberally en- 
 dowed as a fchool, by King Edward the fixth, 
 the front of which is adorned with a ftatue of 
 that monarch, and the following words : 
 " Edward us fextus 
 " fcholam hanc fundavit. 
 " Anno regni 
 " quinto." 
 
 The barracks are handfomely built, and occu- 
 pied by a regiment of horfe : but, notwithfland- 
 ing the temptations, and the wants, which may 
 naturally be expected to prompt men to the com- 
 miffion of depredations, in a town of this fize, 
 the greateit quietnefs and harmony has long pre- 
 vailed, 
 
 A generous fpirit of forbearance, and mutual 
 
 charity has fucceeded to the phrenetic zeal 
 
 1 4 which, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 295 
 
 which, a few years ago, involved the whole 
 neighbourhood in confufion, and had nearly 
 deluged it in blood. 
 
 St. Martin's, which is the mother church of 
 Birmingham, contains a fine ring of twelve bells. 
 The church is of very remote antiquity, and 
 undoubtedly founded in the time of the Saxons ; 
 but lately cafed with brick. 
 
 St. Philip's Church is an elegant modern pile, 
 highly ornamented, and furmounted with a dome 
 and cupola. The interior of this edifice is even 
 gaudy ; and it may be ranked among the mod 
 fplendid places of worfhip in England. On the 
 front of the organ gallery is an infcription to com- 
 memorate a benefaction of fix hundred pounds, 
 given by the fovereign, towards the building of 
 the church, at the inftance of Sir Henry Gouch, 
 and the Right Honourable Sir Robert Walpole. 
 
 Several neat monuments are placed againft the 
 pillars; and among them, an affectionate tri- 
 bute to the memory of a late minifter of the pa- 
 rifh, erected by his flock. 
 
 In Birmingham, an induftrious hive of bufy 
 workmen, the traveller not too faftidious will 
 find much to praife and to admire. 
 
 U 4 The 
 
2^6 A JOURNEY 
 
 The ftreets are in general handfomely, but 
 not durably built ; and every new project which 
 holds out the lure of advantage, is readily and 
 eagerly patronized by a people who delight in 
 fpeculation and activity. Indeed, the quick dif- 
 patch which ufually follows a propofal to in- 
 creafe the commercial intereds of the town, is, 
 in fome infiances, productive of lading incon- 
 venience. The line of canal, which has been 
 lately finifhed, is one among feveral proofs 
 which might be adduced of the errors occafioned 
 by improvident hafte. There are no lefs than 
 twenty-five locks in the immediate vicinity of 
 the town, many of which a more matured re* 
 flection would have rendered unnecerTary. 
 
 The rapid increafe of Birmingham, both in 
 fize and confequence, of late years, and the 
 new figure which it has aflumed, or rather, the 
 quick fuccefiion of improving alterations which 
 have trociden on the heels of each other almofl 
 daily, make us forget that it is a place of great 
 antiquity : but while the philofopher contem- 
 plates the expanfion of genius, and the pro- 
 grefs of the arts in its modern day, the hifto- 
 rian and the antiquary may direct their refearches 
 with pleafure and advantage to the earlieft pe- 
 riods 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 297 
 
 nods of Brltijh (lory, in which it was entitled to 
 diftinguifhed eminence. 
 
 They will trace the formation of thofe rude 
 inflruments of deftrucYion, with which the pri- 
 mitive inhabitants of our ifland oppofed the inva- 
 ders of their freedom, to the anvils of Birming- 
 ham. The fpear, the fnield, and the war cha- 
 riot; the well-tempered bow, and the maflive 
 battle-axe ; together with every other device of 
 hodility, which the Romans found among us, 
 were probably from hence. But while the na- 
 tives of this indubious foil have been employed 
 in forging the weapons of deftru&ion for others ; 
 and while their hands have, formed the inflru- 
 ments of contention; linked in the bonds of har- 
 mony themfelves, every fraternal fentiment has 
 been kindly cherimed, and, with a few excep- 
 tions, the only emulation now to be traced 
 among them is, who fhall mod: excel in the mo- 
 deration of his principles, the generofity of his 
 difpofition, and the liberality of his opinions. 
 
 Birmingham is faid to be a very healthy town, 
 and it is indebted for this advantage to the airy- 
 nefs of its buildings, and the drynefs of the foil ; 
 but probably more than either, to the quantity 
 
 of 
 
298 A JOURNEY 
 
 of garden ground which is cultivated around it. 
 Almofl every houfekeeper is poifefled of a little 
 fpot of land near the town, though perhaps at 
 fome diftance from his habitation ; and thither he 
 retires every evening in the fummer feafon, as 
 foon as the fatigues of buiinefs are over, to 
 breathe a purer air, and innocently employ him- 
 felf in cultivating his cabbages and pot-herbs. 
 
 The appearance of thefe minute inclofures is 
 whimfical, and the ornament of a fmall fummer- 
 houfe, or alcove, in which the proprietor fre- 
 quently enjoys the fublime amufement offmoking, 
 is indeed no very graceful addition to the picture : 
 but the wholefomenefs and advantage to which 
 the cultivation of thefe flips of induftry has a 
 direct tendency, makes the friend of focial hap- 
 pinefs overlook their defects. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 299 
 
 C HAP. XXIX. 
 
 Excurjion to Shenjlone's Lea/owes. 
 
 Not merely becaufe it is ufual or fafhionable 
 to make an excurfion to the Leafowes, but be- 
 caufe the memory of Shenftone mud be ever 
 dear to the fentimental traveller, to whofe de- 
 light the refinement of his genius has fo much 
 contributed ; we rode thither early in the morn- 
 ing, through a fruitful and varied country, more 
 remarkable for the neatnefs of its culture, than 
 the ftrength of its features. 
 
 Between fix and feven miles from Birmingham, 
 the road brought us to an eminence, which com- 
 mands an extenfive profpecl to the weft ; and at 
 the fame inftant the eye drops down on the left, 
 to the beautiful trees and fpruce hedge-rows 
 which informed us of our approach to the Lea- 
 /owes. 
 
 Having fecured our horfes at a cottage, we 
 defcended through a dingle, and palled a flone 
 bridge truly ruftic, which brought us to the edge 
 of the lawn on which the houfe is fituated, and 
 whofe borders are enclofed with thofe romantic 
 walks which at every ftep prefent a lively remem- 
 brance 
 
300 A JOURNEY 
 
 brance of the elegant genius by which they were 
 originally traced. 
 
 '• Farewell then, cities, courts and camps, farewell I 
 ** Welcome ye groves, here let mc ever dwell, 
 *' From care, from bufmefs, and mankind remov'd, 
 ** All but the mufes and infpii ing love." 
 
 Turned to the right under a thatched gateway, 
 and deviated through a thicket, by the fide of a 
 bubbling dream, till we reached a fmall lake, en- 
 vironed with gentle Hopes, on one of which is 
 a feat ; but' the view it formerly commanded of 
 the valley near Hales Owen, is now^excluded by 
 the high banks of the Stourbridge canal. 
 
 Hence w T e w r andered at our leifure, unmolefted 
 by intrufive gardeners, and undifturbed by im- 
 pertinent guides,, through a delightful walk, 
 which borders the lake, and then winds up a 
 narrow valley. 
 
 A fwelling bank on the oppofite fide, tipped 
 with fir trees, has a bench from which the houfe 
 is feen to great advantage ; and on the left, 
 (what Shenjlone called " the priory-gate") a well 
 imitated ruin. ' 
 
 Strolled up the glen, by the mo ft rural and 
 inartificial path imaginable, fhaded with fine trees, 
 and varied with unequal ground. 
 
 From 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 30C 
 
 From a feat under an oak, a wild foreft-lpoking 
 fcene prefents itfelf ; and on a pedeftal Somer- 
 vile's urn 
 
 " INGENIO ET AMICITI^E 
 
 G UL I EL MI S OMER VI L E 9 
 
 " G. S 
 
 u PCS U IT 
 
 " DEBITA SPARGENS LACRYMA 
 
 " FAVILLA VATIS AMICI." 
 
 The motto is repeated on the oppofite fide, 
 but the (tone is mouldering into decay. 
 
 Came to the root-houfe in a retired fpot, which 
 has a femicircular bench (haded with mofs. Near 
 it is another urn, appropriately infcribed 
 
 " GENIO LOCI." 
 
 A foft rill creeps over the pebbles, clofe to 
 fome pretty yew trees, and the deep folemnity 
 of their venerable fhade was increafed by the 
 diftant chiming of the bells at Hales Owen. 
 
 Afcended through the wood, and paifed a feat 
 
 formed of the branches of trees, which brought 
 
 us to the fumm't of the hill. A circle of firs, 
 
 whofe denuded roots form a kind of reticular 
 
 floor, contains an octagon feat, with a pedeftal, 
 
 furmounted with a large bowl, infcribed with the 
 
 well known provincial toaft, 
 
 "AH 
 
302 A JOURNEY 
 
 «« All friends round the Wrekin ;" 
 
 and affords a very extenfive view over the coiin* 
 try, commanding the bold f welling bofom of 
 the Wrekin itfelf. 
 
 Farther on is a rural alcove, from whence the 
 opening towards the north-weft is varied with 
 fine undulations of hill and valley, interfperfed 
 with trees, corn fields, and buildings ; and at 
 the foot of the meadow a little brook winds its 
 filent flream. 
 
 On a board at the back part of the buildings 
 are the following charming lines, 
 
 *< O you, that bathe in courtlye blyffe, 
 
 " Or toyle in fortune's giddy fpheare, 
 <e Do not too rafhlye deeme amyfTe, 
 
 " Of him that bydes contented here. 
 
 " Nor yet difdeigne the ruffet ftoale, 
 
 " Which o'er each carelefle lymbe he flyngs, 
 
 " Nor yet deryde the beechen bowle, 
 " In which he quaffs, the limpid fprings. 
 
 *' Forgive him, if at eve or dawne, 
 
 « Devoide of worldlye cark, he ftraye ; 
 " Or all befide fome flowerye lawne 
 
 <c He wafte his inoffenfive daye. 
 •« So may he pardonne fraude and Ilrife, 
 
 " If fuch in courtlye haunt he fee, 
 M For faults there beene in bufye lyfe, 
 
 « From whyche thefe peaceful glennes are free." 
 
 Defcended 
 
IHTO SOUTH WALES. 303 
 
 Defcended acrofs the meadow towards the 
 houfe, which is at prefent uninhabited, and en- 
 tered a fmall plantation covering the north-eall: 
 front of it. 
 
 Under a beautiful cherry tree is a feat, with 
 thefe lines : 
 
 H If cares that to thy ftation cling, 
 M Or griefs which from no vices fpring, 
 '* With age, difeafe, or meer fatigue, 
 '• Againft thy prefent quiet league, 
 " Here feat thyfelf, and thou (halt find 
 " Reft to thy body, and thy mind. 
 '* But, know ! the genius of this wood, 
 *' Sheds comforts only on the good, 
 u Whilft here the vicious and profane, 
 " Shall court her healing gifts in vain.' 5 
 
 There can fcarcely be conceived a houfe bet- 
 ter adapted to the rural and fimple ftile in which 
 the grounds are laid out ; nor any which could 
 adorn them fo much as this. The building is 
 elegant, chafte, and fimple. I fay nothing of the 
 flables, which are in a very different tafte, and 
 childifhly tricked out with battlements. 
 
 Turned to the right from the houfe, by the 
 fide of a plantation, paffed a fmall piece of water, 
 and entered the fkirts of a fine thick wood, 
 which covers the hill on the eaftern fide of the 
 grounds. 
 
304 A JOURNEY 
 
 We were now in what Shenftone called the 
 Lover's walk, and might eafily fancy the name 
 of Delia infcribed on every tr^e. 
 
 In a thicket, clofe to a murmuring dream, is an 
 urn of the artificial (tone of Coade's manufactory. 
 
 " Ah Maria! 
 
 " Puellarum elegantiiliffia 
 
 €€ Ah flore venuftatis abrepta ! 
 
 , Vale! : 
 
 " Heu quanto minus eft 
 
 , " cum reliquis verfari 
 
 cc quam tui 
 
 " meminifle." 
 
 TRANSLATION : 
 
 Ah! Maria/ 
 
 moll elegant of unmarried 
 
 young women. 
 
 Ah! Maria/ 
 
 {hatched from us when all thy 
 
 charms were in full flower, 
 
 farewell ! for ever ! 
 
 Oh ! how inferior the moft familiar 
 
 converfe with other women 
 
 to the bare remembrance 
 
 of thee ! 
 
 This was Mifs Maria Dolman, the daughter 
 
 of a clergyman in the neighbourhood, and cou- 
 
 fin of Mr, Shenftone* 
 
 After 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 305 
 
 After afcending by a zig-zag path, we entered 
 a long gloomy walk, in the centre of which is 
 a hermitage, built by the late Major Halliday, 
 the lad proprietor of the Lea/owes, of bones 9 
 calces, glafs, and cinders. ' The infide is divided 
 into compartments, by rows of pebbles, the 
 walls panneled with bark, and the roof very 
 prettily ftuccoed with fir apples, fet in mofs* 
 
 A fmall cupola rifes from the roof, but the 
 gentleman who compared this building to a 
 Highlander's hut, mufl have overlooked the chim* 
 ney. The floor is laid with fmail pebbles and 
 horfes' teeth. The door is of bark, and a gothic 
 window overlooks the town of Hales Oice?i 9 to 
 the meadows which cover the fide of Clent hill ; 
 which has been rendered famous by the chapel, 
 built on the fpot where the murdered body of 
 the young Kenelm, King of Mercia, was interred. 
 
 The profpect is much hurt by the direct line 
 of canal, which, even at this diftance, creates 
 difguft, by the ftiffnsfs of its formal embank- 
 ments ; but the intervening meadow is charm- 
 ingly fludded with trees. 
 
 This walk is terminated by the temple of 
 Pan y a dufky alcove, now deprived of all its 
 beauty. 
 
 X Turned 
 
3.o6 A JoMft'E^ 
 
 Turned to the right, and arrived at a wicket 
 at the corner of the wood, which opens to a 
 kind of natural terrace, commanding a very rich 
 and extenfive view, including the monument at 
 Hag ley, and, it is faid, (though I believe it to 
 be a miftake) the feats of the Earl of Plymouth, 
 and Vifcount Dudley and Ward. 
 
 Defcended through the meadows, and pafled 
 a fcreen of fir trees, near which is a feat, infcribed 
 
 cc Deus nobis hasc otia fecit." 
 
 The Hoping ground in front is fprinkled with 
 fine trees, whofe exuberant foliage feems to 
 fmile on the enamelled turf out of which they 
 fpring. The view is rich, fylvan, and harmo- 
 nious. 
 
 PafTed a feat dedicated to Lord Lyttleton, and 
 ihzn entered Virgil's grove, a thick wood, whofe 
 entangled boughs admit juft light enough to fill 
 the mind with penfive mufing. 
 
 Here, on an elevated fpot, fhaded with yews 
 and cyprefs, is an obelifk, thus dedicated to the 
 great father of Georgic poetry. 
 
 cc Genio. P. Virgilii Maronis 
 
 " Lapis, ifte. cum. iuco. 
 
 " Sacer, efto." 
 
 Near 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. $6f, 
 
 Near Virgil's monument is an old feat, with 
 the following lines, now fcarcely legible : 
 
 iC Celeberimo Poetss 
 
 cc Jaccbo Them/on, 
 
 " pro'pe Fontes illi non faftiditos 
 
 « G. S. 
 
 " Sedem hanc ornavit. 
 
 *' Quas tibi, quo: tall reddam pio carmina dona, 
 ** Nam neque me tantum, venientis fibilus aufhr, 
 " Nee percufla juvant flu&u tarn iitora nee quse, 
 " Saxofas inter decurrunt flumina valles." 
 
 Thomforfs feat is indifputably the moll delight- 
 ful fpot in this Ehjfmnu On one fide is Virgil's 
 monument ; a tinkling rill creeps below ; and, 
 on the left, is a cafcade ; all completely flickered 
 by a " brown o'er-arching grove/' 
 
 A narrow walk next conducted us over a fmall 
 bridge, thrown acrofs a rill, which murmurs 
 along the bottom of this fequellered gloom, and 
 within fight of a mod beautiful cafcade, conge- 
 nial with the placid fcenery around us j not 
 dafhing furioufly from a rocky eminence, nor 
 conducted artfully over a flight of Heps, but dif- 
 tilling its liquid pearls from a moffy fountain, 
 down a rock of darken: green, and gliding in a 
 foft and purling ftream among the trees below. 
 X 2 . There 
 
JOS A JOURNET 
 
 There are two other rills creeping along at 
 your feet, in the fame Mile of elegant fimplicity ? 
 whofe fomniferous tinkiings produce the moft 
 foothing ealmnefs : and he mud be indeed a floic 
 who can frequent thefe groves without being in 
 love. 
 
 The famous chalybeate fpring, which has been- 
 fo much admired and celebrated, is now almofl 
 overgrown with weeds ; and the ftone which 
 bears the inscription was lying with its face down- 
 ward, at fome diftance from the little bafon whicfe 
 receives the water. 
 
 " Fons ferrugineus Divas 
 " quae feceflu ifto frui 
 " concedit faluti S/ y 
 
 Leaving the cafcade on our left, we aceompa* 
 xiied the ftream which defcends from it, an# 
 came to a tree with the following lines. 
 
 " O let me haunt this peaceful made, 
 
 " Nor let ambition e'er invade 
 
 ** The tenant of this leafy bower, 
 
 6i That fhuns her paths and (lights her power. 
 
 " Hither the peaceful Halcyon flies, 
 u From focial meads and open fides, 
 ic Pleas'd by this rill her courfe to fleer, 
 *« And hide her fapphire plumage here. • 
 
 « The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2 Q 9 
 
 £c The trout, bedeck'd with crimfon (tains* 
 f* Forfakes the rivers proud domains 
 Cl Forfakes the fun's unwelcome gleam, 
 " To lurk within this humble flream. 
 
 f * And fare I hear the Naiad fay, 
 * : Flow, flow my ftream 7 this devious way, 
 " Tho' lovely foft thy murmurs are, 
 " Thy waters lovely, rnoiftj and fair." 
 
 " Flow, gentle flream, nor let the vain? 
 
 *< Thy fmall irafallied flones difdaiii, 
 
 " Nor let the pen five fage repine, 
 
 " Whofe latent courfe refembles thine, 55 
 
 Another ruftic arch brought us to the entrance? 
 gate, and thus finifhed our agreeable walk. 
 
 Every where, however, around thefe prernifes 3 
 the encroachments of neglect are vifibly intru- 
 ding, and in a few years little of the delightful 
 fcenes which once characterized the retreat cf 
 the plaintive Shenjhone ; will remain to be traced. 
 An elegant writer has well obferved, " the neg- 
 " le&ed (hrubs and flowers feem to droop and 
 " languifh, and the trees envioufly thrufl for- 
 " ward their branches, and fpread them before 
 " the views which Shenfione opened, as if afraid 
 " left their beauties fhould alleviate the forrow 
 X 3 " which 
 
3*0 A JOURNEY 
 
 '« which all ought to feel for his abfence, The 
 €c cafcade has forgotton to flow, and the weeping 
 <c fountain has ceafed to weep, as if the great- 
 u nefs of its grief had drained the fluices of \t% 
 &c tears*" 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 3II 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Road from Birmingham to Warwick. — Solihull. — Knoiule.-— 
 Wroxall 
 
 Left Birmingham by the London road, and after 
 palling the houfe formerly occupied by the ce- 
 lebrated Doctor Frkftly, turned to the left for 
 Knowle. 
 
 The county of Worce/ter interpofes a fmall flip 
 between Birmingham and Warwick, and having 
 crofTed it we came into the heart, or centre, of 
 TVarwickJhire. 
 
 R.ode through the village of Solihull, whofe 
 fpire and church tower had been for fome time 
 in view. 
 
 Near Solihull is a very handfome feat of Henry 
 Grcfwold Lewis Efquire, called Malvern Hall, 
 adorned with pleafure grounds and a fine piece 
 of water. 
 
 Knowle is a fmall town fituated among fertile 
 fields, and contains nothing remarkable; but three 
 miles beyond it, are the remains of YVrcM 7/ Ab- 
 bey, part of which is converted into farm- 
 X 4 houfe 
 
312 A JOURNEY, 
 
 houfe, and another portion into the parifh church, 
 in which a monument of one of the Abbeffes is 
 itill /hewn. 
 
 " In the midft, 
 
 u Appears a mould'ring wall, with ivy crownM, 
 ° Or gothic turret, pride of ancient days s 
 ** Now but of ufe to grace a rural fcene, 
 " To l>ound our vfftas." 
 
 In Dugdale's " Antiquities of Warwick/hire" 
 the legend is preferyed of the firft eftablifhment 
 of a religious houfe at Wroxall, in the days of 
 Xing Stephen* 
 
 This hiftory was extracted from a manufcript 
 of one of the monks of Wroxall ; and the lift of 
 abbefTes is preferved. 
 
 It is faid to have been founded by a pious per- 
 fon, who being in exile, and frequently calling 
 to mind the tutelary patronage and miracles of 
 St. Leonard, was fuddenly infplred with a refolu- 
 tion to found an abbey for Nuns of St. Benet's 
 order. To ftrengthen and encourage him in 
 this religious determination, St. Leonard himfelf 
 appeared in the habit of a monk, and the captivfc 
 was inftantly tranflated from his confinement to 
 the fpot on which this religious edifice was after- 
 wards built. Wandering among the woods, 
 
 which 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 3*3 
 
 which formed part of the domain that he had 
 held of Guy, Earl of Waricick, he could fcarcely 
 believe where he was, nor imagine how he came 
 thither. The faint, however, vouchfafed to ap- 
 pear a fee on d time, and to point out to him four 
 flones, which marked the fpot where the high 
 altar of Wroxajl afterwards arofe. His lady 'being 
 informed of the unexpected arrival of her huL 
 band, was fo incredulous that me would not be 
 perfuaded it was her real hufband, until he pro- 
 duced part of a ring which had been broken be- 
 tween them, and applying the feparate fragments 
 together, they were miraculoufly re-united, — 
 a proof fufficient to have convinced a fceptic. 
 
 This religious houfe was one of a very fmall 
 number, devoted to the reception of the Englijh 
 ladies ; and we may greatly rejoice that the fame 
 power which deprived the cloiftered monk of hi? 
 luxury and wealth, liberated our fair country- 
 women from this unnatural confinement. The 
 cc foft heart of fenfibiiity no longer beats within, 
 cc the grate of a convent, but the bed affection* 
 " of the human mind permitted to flow in their 
 <c natural channel, diffufe their friendly influence 
 " over the brightening profpecls of domeftic 
 " happinefs." 
 
 WromU 
 
314 A JOURNEY 
 
 Wroxall is the property of the Wrens, defcended 
 from the great architect of that name, whofe 
 panegyric has been fo elegantly and concifely 
 written by Horace Walpole. " A variety of know- 
 " ledge proclaims the univerfality, 2. multiplicity 
 '* of works, the abundance, and St. Paul's, the 
 " greatnefs of Sir Chriftopher Wren's genius. 5 ' 
 . Before we arrived at the village of Hatton, a 
 pleafing view of a well wooded country prefented 
 itfelf on the left, decorated witJi the magnificent 
 ruins of Kenelworth Cajile, about three miles 
 diftant ; whofe " ivy mantled" towers reminded 
 us of the proud pageantry of ancient days, and 
 the hardy and ferocious manners of antiquity. 
 
 We vifited the church of Hatton, in which 
 are feveral monumental records, particularly one 
 of a lady, who was a confiderable benefaclrefs 
 to the church. 
 
 The windows are ornamented with painted 
 glafs. • That at the eaft end is a reprefentation of 
 the crucifixion, in which the principal figure is 
 t?ell executed, but fome fculls, abfuidly intro- 
 duced at the foot of the crofs, fhew that the ar- 
 till had not ftudied anatomy with the attention 
 recjuifite to make a complete painter, 
 
 Proceeding 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES 3IJ 
 
 Proceeding towards Warwick, we were pre- 
 ferred with a rich profpect of the valley, on the 
 right, bounded by Edge-Hill, and the high hills 
 of Shuckburgh. 
 
 Half a mile from the town croffed a canal, 
 which has been undertaken, to communicate 
 with that called the Grand Junclion Canal, at 
 Braunfton.* 
 
31 6 A JOURNEf 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 ffiarwick.-'-Buildings, public and private.-— Monuments *•— -C\th 
 jhation of the Vine. — Warwick Cajlle. — Paintings. — Jjfr 
 rnour. — Pare and Pleafure Grounds.- — Antiquities. — Superb 
 Vafe. 
 
 At the entrance of Warwick, what is at pre- 
 fent a cottage, plainly indicates its original ufe 
 to have been that of a place of worfhip : it was a 
 chapel dedicated to St. John. 
 
 Warwick is a pretty large well-built town, and 
 the principal flreet running in a direct line from 
 eafi to weft, having been almofi entirely rebuilt, 
 after a great fire, which happened in 1694, has 
 a degree of neatnefs and regularity in its appear- 
 ance, which is not often paralleled. 
 
 This flreet is terminated at each end by a fmall 
 chapel ; and that towards the weft, has a very 
 lofty, but dark arched paffage under it. This 
 chape! belongs to an hofpital, founded by Robert ! , 
 earl of Leicejier, in the reign of Elizabeth, for the 
 reception of twelve decayed tradefmen, or men 
 of broken fortunes, who had ferved in the army. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 3x7 
 
 The uncommon dulnefs of this town, which 
 is almoft proverbial, an3 the air of melancholy 
 which prevails in it, are noticed in the following 
 lines, which indeed boaft more truth than poe- 
 try : 
 
 (( Where Avon flows, and gathers fame, 
 
 " A town there ftands, and Warwick is its names 
 
 *' For ufeful arts, entitled once to fhare 
 
 u The Mercian dame Elfredtfs guardian care ; 
 
 " Nor lefs for feats of chivalry renown'd, 
 
 " When her own Guy was with her laurels crown'd* 
 
 " Now indolence fubje&s the droiv%y place, 
 
 €t And binds in filken bonds her feeble race : 
 
 " No bufy artizans their fellows greet, 
 
 " No loaded carriages obi^rud the fireet ; 
 
 " Scarce here and there a faunt'ring band is feeri, 
 
 " And pavements dread the turf's encroaching green. 59 
 
 The antiquary may be pleafed -to hear, that 
 a large plan, and perfpective view of the town, 
 when ruined by the great fire before-mentioned, 
 is (till preferred in Warwick Caftle. 
 
 The difpofition of the (beets is regular : the 
 high ftreet is croffed by another at right angles ; 
 and on the highed ground in the town Hands 
 the collegiate church of St. Mary, an edifice of 
 confiderable fize and elegance, although irregu- 
 larly finifhed. 
 
 The 
 
3l8 A JOURNEY 
 
 The windows at the eaft end.* and a beautiful 
 chapel contiguous to the ibuth fide, are gothic ; 
 but thofe of the reft of the building are incon* 
 fiftent with any rule of architecture. 
 
 The infide of the church is remarkably hand- 
 fome. A large organ is placed over the weft 
 door ; the chancel is feparated from the church 
 by iron gates, with a ftove on each fide, dif- 
 guifed in the fhape of urns, (landing on pedef- 
 tals ; and there are regular galleries. 
 
 Jn the middle of the chancel is a white mar- 
 ble monument, with cumbent ftatues in memory 
 of Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who 
 built the body of the church, and died in 1401 ; 
 and of the Lady Margaret, his wife, daughter 
 of William, Lord Ferrars. 
 
 The chapel of St. Mary is the maufoleum of 
 the families of Neville, Dudley, and Beauchamp, 
 earls of Warwick ; and contains feveral (lately 
 monuments, particularly that of Richard Beau- 
 champ, the founder, which has two ftatues of 
 burnifhed brafs, as large as life, and an innu- 
 merable hoft of angels, of the fame metal, (land- 
 ing in niches round the tomb. 
 
 This nobleman is filled " The moft noble 
 " Richard de Bello Campo, Earl of Warwick, Lord 
 
 ^ Defpenfer 9 
 
IK TO SOUTH W.ALES. 3151 
 
 * 5 Defpenfr, of Bergavenny, Lieutenant-general 
 " of France and Normandy" 
 
 There are alfo monuments of 'Robert Dudley, 
 Earl of Leicefter ; Ambrofe Dudley, Earl of War- 
 wick, matter of the ordnance, &c. and Lettice, 
 Countefs of Leicefter ■$ with a long jingling ' ^ r crip- 
 tion, by Gervas Clifton, full of pun and quibble : 
 the concluding lines of which 
 
 te She that did fupply the warrs 
 
 c * With thunder, and the court with flars," Sec, 
 
 tempted Mr. Ireland wittily to remark, that this 
 lady's qualities were really wonderful ; for, fays 
 he, " (lie not only cafi cannon, but multiplied 
 " the heavenly heft that glitter around the throne, 
 " and was at once a belle, an amazon, and a 
 " faint." 
 
 The decorations of this chapel have been 
 fmimed at an enormous expence ; but many of 
 the ornaments are vulgar and difgu fling. 
 
 The ceiling confifls of a difplay of gingerbread 
 work, and painted (liields ; and there is fuch a 
 profufion of carving and gilding, that the eye is 
 involuntarily attracted from the neat and chafte 
 altar-piece, which is the only appropriate orna- 
 ment of the place. 
 
 It 
 
320 A JOURNEY 
 
 It is faid, that the windows of this edifice were 
 formerly enriched with coloured glafs, contain- 
 ing hidorical reprefentations and portraits of the 
 Beauchamp family, but they ate now gone. 
 
 On the north fide of the chancel is a fmall 
 dark chapel, with a monument of black and white 
 marble, in remembrance of the firft Lord Brooke, 
 with the following laconic, but impreflive in- 
 fcription : 
 
 " TROPHCEUM PECCATI. 
 
 « FULKE GREVILLE, 
 
 6C SERVANT TO QUEEN ELIZABETH, 
 
 <c COUNSELLOR TO KING JAMES, 
 
 w AND 
 " FRIEND TO SIR PHILIP SIDNET." 
 
 This chapel is adorned with feveral pennons, 
 banners, helmets, and pieces of armour, agree- 
 able to the fafhion of ancient times, in which 
 the piety of our fathers fuggefted to them vows 
 of this particular nature, viz. to depofit their 
 arms in the churches and monafteries : a cuftoui 
 derived from the remoteft antiquity, and noticed 
 by all the old hiftorians and romance writers ; 
 but firft by the prophet Ezekiel. The heroes of 
 •thofe ages thus dedicating to God the weapons 
 which his providence had rendered effectual in 
 i * their 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 32 1 
 
 their hands, for the defence of religion and their 
 country. 
 
 Contiguous to St. Marfs chapel are the re- 
 mains of a confeffional ; and the fteps leading to 
 it are almoft worn through. 
 
 The tower of this church is very delicately 
 proportioned, and is charged with infer iptions, 
 mentioning the original foundation, by Roger de 
 Novo Burgo (Newburgh), earl of Warwick , and 
 the re-edification of it, by Thomas Beauchamp 
 before-mentioned. 
 
 Near the church-yard is a grammar fchool, en- 
 dowed by King Henry the eighth, with an exhi- 
 bition to Oxford ; under the direction of a matter, 
 who has a liberal falary. 
 
 On the north fide of the town ftands a hand- 
 fome houfe, called the Priory, with fmall, but 
 pleafant gardens about it. It appears, however, 
 to have derived very little advantage from the 
 hand of tafte, although it is capable of great 
 improvements. 
 
 The County Hall is a large and elegant build- 
 ing, and contiguous to it is the Gaol, a work of 
 great (irength, but perhaps objectionably placed 
 near the middle of the town. 
 
 Y There 
 
3^ 2 A JOtlRNE? 
 
 There appears to be a blank left over the en- 
 trance of the Hall, which makes it look unfiniuV 
 ed. If the following motto were borrowed from 
 the town houfe at Delft 9 it might be applicable : 
 
 * € Hie locus odltf atnat, punit, confervat, honorat, 
 *' Nequkiaaij pacem, crimme, jura, probos," 
 
 Warwick? being a place of great antiquity, has 
 been incorporated under feveral charters ; but 
 eternal contentions between the interefis of dif- 
 ferent parties, fome peculation, and a manifeft 
 want of public fpirit, have fcarcely left any 
 traces of a corporation ; befides a building, cal- 
 led the Court Houfe, which was erecied out of 
 monies belonging to different charities j now 
 ufed principally as a dining-room, where 
 
 < e W*de feizes his prey, e'er the cook can uncover, 
 te And M*tth*ivs fays grace with his fork m a plover." 
 
 The moll brilliant ornament of Warwick is its 
 {lately caille, which, both for its antiquity and 
 tituation, deferves the traveller's notice. 
 
 Much has been faid and written about theim- 
 nienfe funis of money which have been laid out 
 in the improvements, and the degree of tafte 
 difcernible in their arrangement : but they who 
 
 refide 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 323 
 
 f efide here can never regret the former, nor will 
 it be contended by any who vifit it, that the latter 
 was not truly deferved by the natural advantages 
 of the place. In fhort, the fite of Warwick Caf- 
 tle, on the bank of the charming Avon, whofe 
 noble ftream winds gracefully through the park, 
 within fight of the windows ; commanding a rich 
 and pleafmg diverfity of objects, and enjoying 
 the advantage of a fertile foil, would have been 
 a delightful refidence, with very few adventitious 
 aids ; and without the clumps and patches, and 
 Hopes, and fwells of modern gardening. 
 
 The entrance to the caftle was formerly by a 
 cate-way (between two octagon towers) which 
 now leads to the court-yard or area ; but an ad 
 of parliament having been obtained for removing 
 the road, from Banbury to Warwick, to a greater 
 diftance from the caftle, a fpace in front of it 
 called the vineyard, was afterwards enclofed, 
 planted, and added to the parterre. 
 
 Grapes are recorded to have been gathered 
 here at a very early period. 
 
 Suetonius fpeaks of vineyards as being very 
 
 common in Britain. Venerable Bede, who lived 
 
 in the eighth century, and Richard of Cirencejier, 
 
 who died in the fourteenth, as well as many 
 
 Y 2 other 
 
3^4 A JOURNEY 
 
 other ancient writers, have alfo fpoken to the 
 fame efFecl. 
 
 The late learned and indefatigable Dr. Pegge 
 has fuppofed, that the Britons began to plant 
 vines foon after the year 280: that they were 
 firft cultivated in the fouthern parts of the ifland, 
 particularly in the neighbourhood of Winchefier, 
 citing from Sumner a quotation, which that au- 
 thor has introduced in his cc Antiquities of Can- 
 " terbury :" 
 
 " Teftis eft London ratibus,. Wintonia Baccho ,*" 
 
 and alfo the authority of Twine, who thus ac- 
 counts for the derivation of the name of that 
 city. 
 
 " Hsec vero iifdem temporibus Britannis Caer* 
 a guent, eodem quoque fenfu a Romanis di&a 
 " eft Vintonia ; et temporis tractu corrupte, 
 " noftro more Wintonia, a Saxonibus poftea 
 ic Winchefier, id eft, urbs vim vel vim/era, quali 
 cc dicas, munitio vel fortificatio ubi crevit opti- 
 « c mum vinum in Britannia appellata eft." 
 
 It is true, that other authors difagree with 
 Mr. Twine, and each other, refpe&ing this ety- 
 mology ; but, without making a digreffion to 
 enlarge on a difpute fo foreign to the fubjecl, I 
 mail only remark, that a little fuburbs contigu- 
 ous 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 325 
 
 ous to the north fide of the Soke, XitzxWincbeJler, 
 is ftill called Wine-hall ; but which, by the way, 
 may have derived its appellation from Wina* 
 the Saxon bilhop of this fee. 
 
 It may, however, be worth while to enter a 
 little into the confideration of the queftion in- 
 tended to be decided, namely, whether the vine 
 was cultivated fo extenfively as, from thefe au- 
 thors has been inferred ; or whether grapes 
 were only grown as a fruit for the defert. 
 
 It has been aiferted, that the vernacular pro* 
 duclion, called wine was in reality neither more 
 nor lefs than cider : but it has certainly never yet 
 been proved, that, by any means, the term vine- 
 yard has been retained in thofe counties, where 
 apples grow in the greatefl abundance. The 
 derivation of the term orchard is evidently trace- 
 able through the Saxon ortgearde, from the Go- 
 thic aurtigard (a fence of a garden ), while the 
 derivation of the other term may be looked for 
 from weingard (an enclofure for vines) ; wein- 
 triu, a vine ; weinaburge, grapes ; weinatains, 
 a vine branch, &c. The term vinee alfo occurs 
 in Domefday Book. 
 
 It does not, indeed, neceffarily follow, becaufe 
 
 the term vineyard may have been fometimes ap- 
 
 Y 3 plied 
 
$%6 A JOURNEY 
 
 plied to fmall enclofures, for the cultivation of 
 thofe fruits which were earlieft known among 
 us, that therefore the vineyards of Britain were 
 only gardens of that clafs, and that no wine was 
 made here 5 for a public permiflion from the 
 Roman emperors would furely never have been 
 thought of, if the culture of the grape had been 
 under flood in fo limited a fenfe ; and although 
 the climate of this iiland has been urged as an 
 objection to Dr. Pegge's account, yet it fhould 
 be remembered, that to prove that wine was 
 made, is one thing ; but to prove, that that 
 wine was fweet, is another, and very difFerent 
 undertaking ; in which Dr. Pegge does not feem 
 to have been at all difpofed to engage. 
 
 In the great literary conteft on this fubjecT:, I 
 wonder that the very learned difputants mould 
 all happen to have overlooked Warwick, where 
 the piece of ground (till called the Vineyard, 
 which I have mentioned, is recorded to have 
 yielded abundance of fruit, at a very remote pe- 
 riod, and where vines are ftill feen growing 
 againft the fronts of the houfes in fpme of the 
 public ffreets. 
 
 After the alteration of the road to Warwick, as 
 above-mentioned, a lodge was built on the fouth 
 
 eaft 
 
INTO SOUTH VCAJLES. 327 
 
 eaft fide of the ground, .then recently enclofed ; 
 and this was the principal approach for feverai 
 years ; but the gate has been lately clofed, and 
 a new embattled and caftellated entrance, which 
 greatly offends the eye of tafte, and is a difgrace 
 to the fituation which it occupies, has been 
 erected at the fouth corner ; fo that the caftle 
 has now completely turned its back to the 
 town. 
 
 It has been objected againft the gardens, that 
 fir trees and fhrubs are unfit decorations for the 
 place ; but we are almoft induced to forget the 
 inconfiftency of iuch ornaments to an old caftle, 
 by the beauty and luxuriance of their growth. 
 
 We rung at the gate, and were let in hy a 
 well-fed porter, whofe appearance reminded me 
 of "Thorn/on* s lines. 
 
 " flow from his bench arofe 
 
 " A comely full fpread porter, fwoln with ileep ; 
 
 " His calm broad thoughtlefs afpect breath'd repofe, 
 
 " And in fweet torpor he was plunged deep ; 
 
 u Nor could himfelf from carelefs yawning keep ; 
 
 " While o'er his eyes the drowfy liquor ran, 
 
 " Through which his half-wakM foul did faintly peep." 
 
 Palling between two high banks, clothed with 
 
 a fhrubbery, the firft view of the caftle fuddenly 
 
 Y 4 burfts 
 
$2% A JOURNEY 
 
 burfts on the fight, with great fublimity. Two 
 very high towers, at the fouth and northern an^ 
 gles of the building, each with prodigious gor- 
 bels, and an open parapet, embattled, are con- 
 nected by a ftrong wall, in the centre of which 
 is the entrance under an arched gate-way. 
 
 The furrounding parterre is thick fet with 
 trees, from among which peep the (tables ; and 
 behind them rs feen the high tower of St. Mary's 
 church : but the town is completely hidden by 
 the plantations. 
 
 The tower at the fouth-eafl: angle rifes from a 
 naked rock to a great height, and is fuppofed to 
 be of more remote antiquity than any other part 
 of the building. 
 
 It is attributed to yuliiis Gafar ; but on what 
 authority I can not pretend to fay ; however, 
 it is certain, that Julius Cafar did not penetrate 
 fo far as Warwick. 
 
 That this town was that ftation of the Romans 
 called Prajidium, there is no doubt ; and feveral 
 Roman infcriptions have been difcovered here, at 
 different times. 
 
 With regard to the architecture of what is 
 called Cafar's tower, I fufpedk the turret on the 
 top of it to belong to the early Norman times ; 
 
 the 
 
INTO SOUTH WAT.ES. 329 
 
 the period at which Chepftow Cattle was built ; 
 where there is a tower which much refembles 
 this at Warwick. 
 
 Under the tower is a deep and mod gloomy 
 dungeon, into which a few rays of light are ad^ 
 mitted, by a fingle loop hole. The flair-cafe 
 which defcends to this horrifying abode, barely 
 allows one perfon to enter at a time ; and few 
 places of confinement are more exactly calcu- 
 lated to imprefs a modern Englijhman with the 
 favage barbarity of his anceftors. 
 
 To fuch dire abodes, and to a folitude even 
 worfe than death, not merely crimes againft fo- 
 -ciety, but the exercife of liberal fentiment, or 
 heroic patriotifm was often a fufficient pafTport* 
 The genuine impulfe of the kindlieft affections 
 which warm and ameliorate the foul ; the bright- 
 eft, moft illuftrious examples of every focial and 
 domeftic virtue, in thofe ferocious ages, could 
 not protect, the weak from the fangs of the rapa- 
 cious ; could not flielter the poor from the vio- 
 lence of the opprefTor, nor defend the filent me- 
 rit of the humble from the tremendous horrors 
 of capricious defpotifm, 
 
 The fcenes which here recur to the mind of 
 the man of feeling (not like the infubftantial vi- 
 
 fions 
 
330 A JOURNEY 
 
 lions of poetic fancy) are painted in unfading co- 
 lours, and their hiftory is recorded in characters 
 of blood. 
 
 Hark! methinks I hear the groans of the 
 ftarving captive creep along the walls of his pri- 
 fon I methinks I hear the clinking of his maflive 
 fetters, and the heart-piercing fighs, which feern 
 to tell me, " the iron enters into his foul ;** while 
 imagination fupplies the half-articulated prayer, 
 efcaping through a cloud of putrid exhalation, 
 and afcending to the empyreal feat of the Father 
 of Mercies, 
 
 With flow and folemn lleps, the unfeeling 
 centinels perform nocturnal rounds j while the 
 imperious gaoler, (till more unfeeling and obdu- 
 rate, watches, with Argus 9 eyes the very liars ; 
 and feems to grudge their light ; Mens, with 
 jealous ears to every wind that blows, and de-» 
 precates its foothing influence. 
 
 Yet, even to the captive on his rufhy pallet, 
 befmeared with midnight dews, and with the hu* 
 mid perfpiration of his cell, fhall confcions rec- 
 titude within, fpeak peace and confolation. Of 
 this nor lords nor warriours can deprive him : 
 no ! nor the cruel torments of the rack 5 nor all 
 the rage and fury of oppreflion. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 33I 
 
 The howling of the tempeft round his dun- 
 geon, brings no terrors ; the vivid lightning, 
 which melts the maflive bars, and plays upon 
 his fetters, affrights him not. It only breaks the 
 difmal gloom, and beguiles the tedious hours. 
 Even the trembling agitation of the earth itfelf, 
 which feems the harbinger of univerlal annihila- 
 tion, is, to him, the mefTenger of peace : the 
 long, but patiently-expected fummons to immor- 
 tality. While the lordly chieftain 
 
 w Cruel as death, and hungry as the grave," 
 
 who has triumphed over the poor emaciated re- 
 mains of his expiring captive, now fmitten by 
 the keen arrows of remorfe, in vain attempts to 
 hide his guilty head, and fcarcely dares apply to 
 Heaven for mercy. He hears the voice of death 
 with ghaftly horror, and trembles with difmay. 
 His martial enterprizes, and all the fanguinary 
 fchemes of proud ambition avail him not ; for 
 his courage was but ferocity, and his wifdom, 
 the fuccefs of intrigue. The pride of anceflry, 
 and the pomp of rank, in this keen hour of dif- 
 trefsful anguifh, afford no fhelter to the guilty 
 wretch ; for his glory, and his pomp, and the 
 mightinefs of his dominion totter on the brink of 
 ruin ; and before him yawn the opening portals 
 to fufferings inexpreflible. " The fpirit of man 
 Jl " may 
 
33 2 A JOURNEY 
 
 " may bear his afflictions ; but, a wounded fpU 
 " r/Y, who can bear ?■' 
 
 Warwick Caftle has been almoft ever fince the 
 conqueft, the principal feat of theEarls of Warwick. 
 
 Succeflive poffeflbrs have added to the original 
 buildings, agreeable to the tafte of the days in 
 which they Jived ; but the principal alterations 
 that have taken place were, in the reign of Ed- 
 %uard the third, when Thomas Beauchamp, earl 
 of Warwick, built the great octagon tower, ia 
 honour of his anceftor, the renowned Guy, whofe 
 name it ftill retains ; in the reign of Edward the 
 fourth, when George Plantagenet, earl of War- 
 "wick, began the range of buildings now in ufe^ 
 and in the time of King James the firft, when 
 Sir Fulke Greville, lord Brooke, laid out twenty 
 thoufand pounds in repairing it. 
 
 The caftle was defended in the civil war of 
 Cromwell, when it was garrifoned for the parlia- 
 ment, by a very lingular contrivance, namely, 
 that of fufpending wool-packs from hooks, which 
 are ftill to be feen in the towers, at the entrance. 
 
 A man muft have loft every fenfation, who 
 can enter the court of Warwick Caftle, without 
 admiration and delight. 
 
 On the left, a grand irregular baronial man- 
 fion, terminated by Cafar's tower $ a vaft pile of 
 
 ftrength> 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 333 
 
 ftrength, whofe antiquity is (lamped on its bat* 
 tlements. In front, a lofty mount, covered with 
 (hrubs, and crowned with turrets, through one 
 of which an iron gate admits a gleam of light to 
 harmonize the picture. The wall continued 
 from thence is covered with ivy, and runs to- 
 wards the right-hand corner; where Guy's Tower, 
 erected by Thomas Beaachamp, rifes to the height 
 of an hundred and twenty feet, with the moft 
 perfect: fymmetry and grace. 
 
 A flight of fteps in a gothic porch, leads to 
 the hall, which is a magnificent apartment of 
 about fixty feet by thirty-eight, wainfcotted with 
 oak, and ornamented with the antlers of moofe 
 deer, and other animals, which have been dug 
 out of bogs in Ireland, 
 
 The fpecies of deer to which thefe antlers be- 
 longed, mud have been undoubtedly of very 
 great fize and ftrength 1 it has been conjectured 
 the fame as the American moofe, and Scythian 
 tarandus; but Giraldus Cambrenfis (in whofe 
 time the race was not extinct) in his " Topo- 
 " graphia Hybernia," in the paffage cited by 
 Camden, feerns to countenance an idea that the 
 magnitude of the horns was in reverfe proportion 
 to the bulk of the animal. " Ceros praenimia pin- 
 ♦* guedine minus fugere praevalentes, quanto.que 
 
 minores 
 
334 A JOURNEY 
 
 * 6 minores funt corporis quantitate, tanto pf ascel- 
 " lentius efFeruntur capitis et cornuum dignitate.'* 
 The ftate apartments open to the weft, and 
 thofe which are occupied by the family are at the 
 eaft end of the hall ; but all the windows look 
 towards the fouth, and the doors being throwit 
 open, the whole range is taken in at a fingle 
 glance. 
 
 The window at the weft end looks out of the 
 ftate clofct into the park ; that which terminates 
 the range to the eaft, is of ftained glafs, with 
 coats of arms, and below it ftands a coloflal 
 buft of Hercules. 
 
 From the hall we were conducted into an anti- 
 chamber, furnifhed with chairs covered with cut 
 velvet, and decorated with feveral capital paintings. 
 
 In this room is a table of lapis lazuli, inlaid 
 with precious ftones, which was formerly in the 
 poffeflion of the King of Naples ; and a fine buft 
 of Minerva, 
 
 The next apartment is a large drawing room, 
 wainfcotted with cedar. The chimney-piece has 
 two large pillars of the moft beautiful variegated 
 jafper, a very rare and valuable curiofity. 
 
 Here are feveral Etrufcan vafes, and at each 
 
 end of the room is a large table, inlaid with 
 
 Italian marble from the capitol. 
 
 Alas ! 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 335 
 
 Alas ! what a change of fituation. Ye, whofe 
 polifhed furfaces once, perhaps, reflected the 
 images of the great matters of the world, or 
 echoed to the found of Ckeronean eloquence, 
 are now degenerated into fervile minifters of 
 luxury and o dentation ! Indeed, without pre- 
 tending to feel the raptures of an antiquary, I 
 beheld thefe venerable fragments as if profaned 
 by the figures which they have afTumed. 
 
 There is alfo a table of lava, of very beauti- 
 ful colours. 
 
 Among other portraits, of which there is a 
 great profulion, is one of King Charles the firft ; 
 another of Martin Ruckher, the painter, admi- 
 rably finifhed ; a whole length of Lucy, Countefs 
 of CarliJIe ; and a head of the gallant "James 
 Graham, Marquis of Montrofe, who, in the reign 
 of King Charles the firft, performed fo wonder^ 
 ful a feries of brilliant atchievements, who, "with- 
 «' out any regular provifion of arms or ammuni- 
 " tion, attacked and routed Lord Elcho, ztPertb 9 
 " with a well difciplined army of fix thoufand 
 " men ;-— who routed Lord Bur ley, at Aberdeen , 
 " and five and twenty hundred infurgents ;— - 
 " who eluded all the vigilance of the mod ex- 
 " perienced generals, by whofe troops he was 
 
 " repeat- 
 
33$ A JOURNEY - 
 
 6C repeatedly furrounded ; — kept the field in the 
 * c midft of winter, expofed to intenfe cold, fa- 
 * c mine, and fatigue; ravaged the country of At- 
 "gyle, and difperfed thoufands by the terror of 
 " his name :" and at length clofed a life of great 
 and painful activity, by a cheerful fubmiffion to a 
 cruel fentence, which was executed with every 
 circumftance of barbarous indignity, and favage* 
 exultation. 
 
 At the battle of Perth it is related of this cori- 
 fummate officer, that he animated his men to the 
 attack, by the following laconic fpeech : " Sol- 
 diers 'tis true you have no arms, but your enemies 
 have plenty ; my advice therefore is, that every 
 man take a ilone in his hand, run up to the next 
 foldier, beat out his brains , and then feize his 
 arms." The brave Highlanders followed his ad- 
 vice with punctuality : two thoufand of the ene- 
 my were inftantly llain, and Montrofe, with his vic- 
 torious forces, marched triumphantly into Perth. 
 
 The ceiling of this room is elegantly carved 
 and gilt, and the looking glafles are fplendid. 
 
 The ftate drefling room is ornamented with 
 feveral antiquities, and a (hell of the Nautilus 
 curioufiy carved. 
 
 Over the doors are three portraits of the fobs 
 of Robert, Lord Brooke, who was killed at the 
 
 fiege 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 337 
 
 fiege of Litchfield. An incomparable painting of 
 Ignatius Loyola, richly drefled in his mantle, with 
 a book open before him, by Rubens. A portrait 
 of Queen He?irietta Maria : and another of Ma- 
 chiavel, to which may be applied the obfervation 
 of Cicero, — " mentis imago vultus eft, indices 
 " oculi." 
 
 A whole length of Richard Beauchamp, Earl 
 of Warwick. 
 
 •The ftate bedchamber adjoins. It is hung 
 with tapeftry ; and the bed, fofas, and chairs are 
 richly covered with crimfon velvet, embroidered 
 with green and yellow filk ; a prefent from 
 Queen Anne. 
 
 There is a large cabinet, inlaid with tortoife* 
 /hell, and a fmaller, of wood of different fhades, 
 reprefenting birds and flowers. 
 
 In the window is a fine marble bull of Edwarc£ 
 the Black Prince. 
 
 Over the chimney, which is of verd antique 
 and white marble, is a picture of Margaret, 
 Dutchefs of Parma, by Paul Veronefe, and over 
 the door a head of Robert, Earl of Efex, the fa- 
 vorite of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 The ftate clofet is hung with pea green. fatin, 
 
 and contains feveral paintings, particularly one 
 
 Z of 
 
33^ A JOtTRNEV 
 
 of Francis ', Earl of Bedford ; and the head of an 
 old woman, perhaps Rembrandt's mother, from 
 the Orleans collection. 
 
 The beauty of the interior decorations is apt 
 to be overlooked by thofe who vifit this charm- 
 ing apartment, for there are few fcenes which 
 can be imagined, more ftrikingly attractive than 
 the profpecl which the windows afford. 
 
 The " foft flowing Avon" defcending in two 
 itreams below the rock on which the caftle (lands, 
 and warning the plantations in the gardens, till 
 It quits this fylvan fcene for the expanfive mea- 
 dows at a diftance, and glides under a rialto at 
 the extremity of the park ; and the variety of 
 Hopes and undulations which fill up the land- 
 fcape on the left, thick fprinkled with trees, or 
 fhaded with groves, are fcarcely to be matched. 
 
 Returning through the fame apartments we 
 paffed out of the (late dreffing room by a door 
 on the north fide, into a fmall armoury, or rather 
 mufeum, which, among a variety of weapons 
 collected from different countries, boafts feveral 
 natural curiofities of great beauty, fome fine 
 petrifactions, and fpecimens of fpar and foflils, 
 and two birds of the owl fpecies, of uncom- 
 mon fize» 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 339 
 
 The buff jacket, which was worn by that fu- 
 rious fanatic Lord Brooke, who commanded the 
 rebel forces, in 1643, at the fiege of Litchfield, 
 and in which he was fhot, ( by Mr. Dyott, a deaf 
 and dumb man,) is preferred here 5 and a few 
 drops of blood may dill be traced. 
 
 An original picture of Sir Philip Sidney in a 
 ftriped habit, is over one of the doors ; and in 
 a recefs, a female figure, extremely well painted, 
 but difadvantageoufly placed. There is alfo an 
 Indifferent painting of Mary, Queen of Scots 9 
 and King James the firft, when a child. 
 
 In the billiard room, above flairs, are two re- 
 markably fine pictures by Vandyke, which are in 
 themfelves an ineftimable treafure, and exhibit, 
 to its full extent, the impreffive force and effect 
 of the pencil. 
 
 The fubje&s being a contraft of all that is 
 lovely, and all that is horrid, aid each other in 
 the influence which they have on the pafiions, 
 by that circumftance, although the intrinfic me- 
 rit of each is fufficient to recommend it to 
 general admiration. 
 
 The firft is Danae, — a glow of colouring, and 
 
 a diftribution of light and fhade beyond defcrip- 
 
 tion admirable j All that " youthful poets fancy 
 
 Z 2 e " whea 
 
340 A JOURNEY 
 
 " when they love," is here not fimply delineated, 
 but, I had almoft faid, realized. The features, 
 the attitude, the drapery, are inimitable. The 
 fmile of elegance, and the glance of love, adorn 
 the moft animated countenance which ever graced 
 a picture. The well turned arm, the fnowy 
 bofom, and the auburn treffes, are fo incompara- 
 bly beautiful, that were a churlifh mifer of four- 
 fcore to view this divine affemblage, even he 
 would be tempted to fuppofe the mower of gold 
 which is feen defcending, a price far below the 
 value of the piciure, much more of the poffetfion. 
 
 The countenance of the old hag, who receives 
 the beheft of Jove, is well defigrted to fet off 
 the delicacy of the principal figure; but although, 
 I am told, the old woman (who it mud be ac- 
 knowledged is admirably painted) is the favourite 
 of fome of the connohTeurs, I am perfuaded that 
 it muft be thofe of her own age. 
 
 The other picture is the death of St. Sebaftian* 
 The horrors of expiration under agonizing tor- 
 ture, but fuftained by the influence of a lively 
 faith, and though transfixed with arrows, fup- 
 portedby the blefTed hope of a happy immor- 
 tality, are the ideas expreffed in every feature. 
 The pallid lip, and the flaccid mufcles, gradually 
 
 relaxing 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 341 
 
 relaxing in the decay of nature,— the compofed 
 ferenity of manly fuffering, the triumphant for- 
 titude of the chriftian, 
 
 " Strong and unconquerable even in death," 
 
 make us forget the painter's art, to companionate 
 the dying martyr, and admire the influence of 
 that heavenly afliftance which is extended to the 
 virtuous in his lad moments, and attracts his 
 attention from corporeal pains, to a certain, and 
 a glorious reward. 
 
 The chimney-piece of a fmall bed chamber 
 in one of the turrets, is compofed of marbles 
 (infcribed with the names of Roman foldiery) 
 which have been dug up at Warwick; whofe an- 
 tiquity has entitled them to a place of fuch dif- 
 tinction : but when I read the comments which 
 are frequently made on old infcriptions, in fpite 
 of ail my refpect for venerable antiquity, a fmile 
 is with difficulty fupprefTed at the learned labours 
 which have been fo often unfuccefsfully employed 
 to fupply deficiencies, and correct errors ; — 
 when, after all, many of the marbles handed 
 down to us, were infcribed by the hands of the 
 ignorant and unfkilful, in imperfect, and fome* 
 times barbarous latinity. 
 
 Z 3 Defcending 
 
34^ A JOURNEY 
 
 Defcending into a long paffage contiguous to 
 the armoury, we were fhewn a fine picture of 
 King Charles the firil on horfeback, by Vandyke, 
 of the natural fize. 
 
 The windows contain feveral figures in co- 
 loured glafs, and among other coats of arms, that 
 of Henry , Duke of Warwick. 
 
 The chapel is gloomy and damp, but fitted up 
 in a very neat and fimple flyle, and there is an 
 organ. 
 
 The painted glafs window over the altar, was 
 prefented by the Earl of Exeter. 
 
 Returning through the hall we were conducted 
 into the dining room, built by Francis , Earl 
 Brooke ', of Warwick Caftle y and Earl of Warwick , 
 in a tafte fo confident with the reft of the build- 
 ing as to be fcarcely dillinguifhed from it. 
 
 In this room are two very large pictures of 
 Frederic^ Prince of Wales ^ and Augufta his Prin- 
 cefs, holding in her arms his prefent Majefty, an 
 infant. The frames are ornamented with tro- 
 phies and other coilly decorations \ and the pic- 
 tures were a prefent from the lady of Lord Jrcbi* 
 bald Hamilton. 
 
 Over 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 343 
 
 Over the chimney is a half length of Sir Fulke 
 Gre-ville, firft Lord Brooke, who was murdered 
 by one of his fervants at a very advanced age. 
 This eminent perfon was one of the earlieft Fel- 
 lows of the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 The other apartments at the eaft end of the 
 caflle, and the library, which is one of them, 
 has a ufeful, rather than a valuable collection of 
 books. 
 
 There are alfo feveral good portraits, particu- 
 larly of a Dutch Burgo-mafter and Lady Van* 
 dyke, a picture of Achilles in armour, and a three- 
 quarter length of old Parr: the lad not very re- 
 markable for its execution. King Charles the 
 firft and his children ; and over the chimney in 
 the library, the half length of a fchool-boy, by 
 Sir Jojhua Reynolds, 
 
 From thefe windows a new bridge which has 
 been built over the Avon> is feen to great advan- 
 tage, The arch is a fine piece of mafonry, and 
 meafures 120 feet in diameter. 
 
 Among the improvements which have been 
 made by the prefent Earl, is that of having en- 
 tirely covered the few remaining houfes which 
 belong to the town of Warwick, on the fouth 
 fide of the river, by a large g plantation, which 
 Z 4 effectually 
 
344 A JOURNEY 
 
 effe&ually prevents their difgracing the rich and 
 luxuriant profpect from the caftle. 
 
 The inhabitants of the neighbourhood, how- 
 ever, feem to view thefe alterations with fome 
 degree of regret, as well as jealoufy ; and the 
 demolition of fo many comfortable habitations 
 is fcarcely compenfated for, in their opinion, by 
 the increafed elegance of his lordfhip's refidence. 
 It mull be confefTed, indeed, that the circum- 
 fiance is apt to remind us of the affe&ing pidure 
 drawn by Goldfmith : 
 
 *' One only mailer grafps the whole domain, 
 ** And half a tillage {lints the fmiling plain. 
 
 * # *4 # * , t # * * * 
 
 " Along the lawn, where fcatter'd hamlets rofe, 
 " Unweildy wealth and cumbrous pomp rcpofe, 
 * c And every want to luxury allied, 
 " And ev'ry pang that folly pays to pride. 
 
 " Low lies that houfe where nut-brown draughts infpir'd, 
 
 « Where grey-beard mirth, and fmiling toil retiVd, 
 
 « Where village ftatefmen talk'd, with looks profound, 
 
 « And news, much older than their ale> went round. 
 
 " Imagination fondly Hoops to trace 
 
 " The parlour fplendors of that feftive place ; 
 
 " The white-wauYd wall, the nicely fanded floor, 
 
 " The varnifhed clock, that click'd behind the door ; 
 
 «< The hearth, except when winter chill'd the day, 
 
 " With afpen boughs, and flowers, and fennel gay. 
 
 a Vaia 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 345 
 
 tl Vain tranfitory fplendor ! could not all 
 *' Reprieve the tott'ring maniion from its fall] 
 4f Obfcure it finks, nor fliall it more impart, 
 c< An hour's importance to the poor man's heart; 
 44 Thither no more the peafant fhall repair, 
 st To fvveet oblivion of his daily care. 
 
 *' Ye friends to truth ; ye flatefmen, who furvey, 
 *' The rich man's joys increafe, the poor's decay ; 
 €i 'Tis your's to judge, how wide the limits Hand, 
 " Between a fplendid, and a happy land. 
 ***** 
 
 " *■ The man of wealth and pride, 
 " Takes up a fpace, that many poor fupply'd ; 
 tc Space for his lake, his park's extended bounds ; 
 u Space for his horfes, equipage, and hounds : 
 " His feat, where folitary fports are feen, 
 ft Indignant fpurns the cottage from the green." 
 
 Before we left Warwick Caftle, it would have 
 been unpardonable not to have infpecled the ar- 
 mour, which, tradition fays, belonged to Guy, 
 the gigantic earl of Warwick^ who encountered 
 a wild bear, a dun cow, and a Daniflo giant ; and 
 after thefe mighty and perilous exploits lived # to 
 a good old age, in a hermit's cell, and died 
 peaceably at lad (as fome fay) in a religious 
 habit. 
 
 This armour is preferved with great care, in 
 the porter's lodge, and confifls of a two-handed 
 
 fword 
 
24& 4 JOURNEY 
 
 fword (very fimilar to- that of King Edward, MR 
 kept m Weftminfter Abbey); a breafl -plate, which 
 weighs thirty pounds ; part of an old helmet* a 
 fence, and two or three iron maces j with a fort 
 ei battle-axe,, fueh as, I believe, was formerly 
 termed " the gifarme,** which, however, being 
 sn inferior weapon, did probably not belong to- 
 ®m- hero.. 
 
 An ancient poem thus mentions the faft-named 
 article : 
 
 ** Some made a mell of mafley lead, 
 ** Which iron all about did bind ; 
 ** Some made flrong helmets for the head, 
 ** And fome their grifty gi/'armes grind. 5 * 
 
 There is likewife a very large bell-metal pot, 
 and a tlumfy flefh-fork, part of the earPs kitchen 
 furniture \ a pair of iron coverings for the top 
 ©f the feet, called flippers, and reputed to have 
 belonged to the lady of the faid earl^ together 
 with a fhafiroone (or chanfrons) and other horfe 
 armour ; a walking-flick, nine feet high (not 
 quite fo tall as the giant) ; a rib of the dun cow^ 
 and one of the vertebras of the wild boar 3 which 
 fell by his ruthlefs arm. 
 
 " That mighty Guy / 
 «* So fam'd in antique fong, Warwick's great carl> 
 
 « Wh# 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 247 
 
 f Who flew the giant Colbrandm fierce fight; 
 ° MaintaiVd a fuminer's day, and freed this realm 
 " From Danl/h vaffalage ; his ponderous fword, 
 *' And mafly fpear, atteft the glorious deed." 
 
 The ftature of this great man is faid to have 
 been nine feet and two inches, which fome think 
 incredible; but it fhould be remembered, that 
 Leland, in his " Colle&anea," quotes the re- 
 fpectable authority of his friend, Sir Thomas 
 Elyot, as recording, that himfelf had feen, at 
 fome place, near Salifbury, a fkeleton which 
 meafured fourteen feet ten inches in length. 
 
 There can be no doubr that the horfe armour 
 is much more modern than the days of Guy ; 
 for, befides other proofs, it has on it, a French 
 motto, in roman capitals, which is only de- 
 faced, and not totally obliterated, by repeated 
 fcourings : but there is fome ground for belief, 
 that the fword is of very high antiquity (arid 
 I myfelf do not know why it mould not have 
 really belonged to Gary), for it was committed to 
 the cuftody of a perfon of fome note, as the 
 identical fword of Guy, by Henry the eighth, in 
 the firft year of his reign, with a falary of ele* 
 ven pence per diem. 
 
 In 
 
34$ A JOURNEY 
 
 In the time of Richard the fecond, there was 
 a fuit of arras hangings in the cadle, reprefent- 
 ing the flory of the famous Guy, which at the 
 attainder of Thomas de Beauchamp, earl of War- 
 wick * was beftowed by the king, on Thomas 
 Holland, duke of Surrey, earl of Kent, marfhai 
 of England, and knight of the mod noble order 
 of the garter. 
 
 There is alfo preferved a (lone coffin, which 
 was dug up within the area of the caftle. It is 
 formed of one entire (lone, with a round exca- 
 vation in the folid upper part, for the head *, 
 and from the ilze of it, appears either to have 
 contained the body of a female, or of fome very 
 young and flender perfon : but whether this be 
 of as high antiquity as the Roman empire, even 
 in its decline, as fome have fuppofed, I am not 
 certain. 
 
 In the year 1659 there was a military or gar- 
 rifon eftablifhment at Warwick Caftle, for a go- 
 vernor, a lieutenant, and fixty foldiers, at an 
 expence of 71/. 8s. per month. 
 
 The Park is extenfive, and there is a charm- 
 ing ride through it, carried among the planta- 
 tions which decorate the banks of the Avm ; and 
 
 a beau* 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 349 
 
 a beautiful lake, of an hundred and fifty acres, 
 occupies the fouth-eaflern part. 
 
 At the extremity of a fine Hoping lawn, waflied 
 on the fouth by the Avon, and commanding a 
 very rich and interefling profpe£t, is a large 
 green-houfe, in which is placed a magnificent 
 vafe, dug up near the banks of the Tiber ; and 
 as the infcription fets forth, tranfmitted to Eng- 
 land, under the care and dire£Uon of Sir William 
 Hamilton, K» B. envoy extraordinary, and mini- 
 fler plenipotentiary to the King of Naples. It is 
 of white marble, and the embellifhments are 
 admirably executed, affording the mod beautiful 
 fpecimen of what were anciently termed cc vafa 
 " pampinata ;" its ornaments being borrowed 
 from the vine, and exquifitely finifhed. Of its 
 fize, I can not trull myfelf to fpeak with accu- 
 racy ; but it is fo capacious, that the fir ft idea 
 which ftrikes an obferver is, the almoft in- 
 furmountable difficulty, the Herculean labour of 
 bringing fuch an immenfe body hither, from the 
 port where it was landed. 
 
35<* A JOtTRNEY 
 
 GHAP. XXXII. 
 
 Charleesft. — Compton Verney . — Klneton . — Edge H'dL — Ban- 
 bury. — Road to Buckingham. 
 
 Two miles from Warwick, croifed the Avon, at 
 Barford Bridge ; and by an excellent road, which 
 paries not far from Charlecott, the refidence of 
 Sir Thomas Lucy, in the days of Shake/pear ; and 
 flill pofifefled by a defendant of that family, foon 
 arrived at Compton Verney, the feat of Lord WiU 
 loughby de Broke. 
 
 The exterior of the houfe is rather neat than 
 fplendid, and the rooms mould rather be called 
 commodious than magnificent; but the pleafurc 
 grounds are varied with great elegance, and the 
 water and plantations are delightful. 
 
 In the green- houfe we were fhewn a choice 
 collection of exotics, and a moft interefting dif- 
 play of, I think, every fpecies of the heath, with 
 which hotanifts are acquainted. 
 
 From the highefl part of the grounds, look, 
 ing to the north-eaft^ we had a diftinct view of 
 
 a con« 
 
 12 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, JjS 
 
 a confiderable portion of the Roman fofs way, 
 running in a direct line towards High Crofs? <m 
 the borders of Leicefterfnir-e, where it meets widi 
 the Wailing Street Way. 
 
 The turnpike road , where it paflTes Compton^ h 
 compofed of a whitiih clay, which, on a nearer 
 infpection, proved to be intermixed with Fuller** 
 earth 5 and from the intelligence of certain work- 
 men employed in the neighbourhood, I am lei 
 to fufpect, that it is produced in large quanti- 
 ties, at no great diftance. 
 
 Having mentioned this production, I arm 
 tempted to particularize a natural curiofity, 
 which was obtained in this part of Warwick/hire* 
 and prefented to me by my worthy and refpected 
 friend, Thomas Ward, of More ton Morrell, Efq. 
 It is one of thofe balls of hair, which have been 
 frequently found in the ftomachs of quadrupeds : 
 but mod fingular, on account of its finenefs of 
 polifh, and firmnefs of texture. The ball is per- 
 fectly fpherical, meafures three inches and one- 
 eighth in diameter, and weighs nearly four 
 ounces. It has been fawn through, and the in- 
 terior is compofed of red and brown hair, fo 
 clofely compacted, as to be fcarcely penetrable, 
 # except^ 
 
35 2 A JOURNEY 
 
 excepting towards the centre. The outfide is of 
 a dark chocolate colour, fmooth, polifhed, and 
 as hard as (tone. It was taken out of the firft, 
 or ruminating flomach of a fat cow , and the 
 polifh had fo well guarded the hair, that although 
 the ball was divided immediately, its inner part 
 was found entirely free from moifture. 
 
 Having parted through Kineton, which the mo- 
 dern inhabitants are fond of denominating King- 
 ton, for no better reafon that I can learn, than 
 becaufe King Charles the firft engaged with the 
 parliamentary forces under the Earl of EJfex, in 
 the neighbourhood ; we entered on the plain at 
 the foot of Edge Hill, and faw the fpot on which 
 that memorable conteft took place. 
 
 The fite of a cottage in which the young 
 princes (afterwards Charles the fecond, and James 
 the fecond) remained during the battle, is marked 
 by a plantation of fir-trees, reared by Mr. Mil- 
 lar, a neighbouring gentleman* whofe feat is 
 about a mile diflant* 
 
 In this engagement fell the Earl of Lindfay, 
 and his fon, Lord Willoughby, with many other 
 diftinguifhed perfons. 
 
 «« Then Verncy too, with many a harnefs'd knight, 
 •' And faithful courtier, anxious for thy weal, 
 
 " Unhappy 
 
INTO SOUT& WALES. 353 
 
 Unhappy prince ! but mindlefs of their own, 
 €c Pour'd out his life upon th' enfanguin'd plain, 
 " And greatly pcrifh'd by his fov'reign's iide." 
 
 Pieces of armour, buckles, fpear-heads, and 
 bones, are frequently turned up by the plough ; 
 and many a mouldering relic, fnatch'd from its 
 bed of earth, is preferved by the ruftic virtuofo, 
 as a memento of this fcene of blood, horror, and 
 carnage. 
 
 " Scilicet et tempus veniet, cum finibus illis 
 u AgricbLi, incurvo terram molitus aratro, 
 " Exefa in veniet fcabra rubigine pila : 
 " Aut gvavibus raftris galeas pulfabit inanes, 
 •* Grandiaque efFoflis mirabitur ofTa fepulchris." 
 
 Afcended the hill ; and as we rode along the 
 beautiful terrace, which ikirts the edge of it, 
 enjoyed a very extenfive profpect over this and 
 the adjacent counties, reaching as far as Binning- 
 ham. 
 
 The objects, however, are not fufficiently in- 
 terefting, when taken feparately, to arrefl: the 
 attention of a ftranger for longer than a momen- 
 tary glance ; and the want of water is a defici- 
 ency in perfpective, which fcarcely any fcenery 
 can recompence. 
 
 A a s About 
 
354 A JOURNEY 
 
 About the middle of the brow of the hill, is 
 an artificial ruin, cancellated, which was erected 
 by the Jate Mr. Millar, of Radway, the fame 
 gentleman to whom we are indebted for the plan- 
 tation, which afcer tains one of the mod re- 
 markable fpots near the field of battle. Mr. Mil- 
 lar was a fkilful architect, and an ingenious .an- 
 tiquary. 
 
 We proceeded over a level country (for there 
 is no defcent on the foiith fide of Edge Hill) 
 through the village of Drayton, to Banbury, leav- 
 ing Wroxton Abbey, the feat of the Earl of Guild- 
 ford, on the right. 
 
 Banbury is a populous town, and employs a 
 confiderable number of hands in the mag manu- 
 factory. It is irregularly built, and the roads 
 are dirty. 
 
 On the north-eaft fide is an ancient (lone bridge 
 over the river Cher-well ; and part of the walls of 
 the town areftill remaining, as islikewife a narrow 
 gate-way, by which we entered it. 
 
 The Only remarkable events which I recollect 
 in the hiflory of Banbury, are, a fkirmifh in the 
 reign of King Edward the fourth, between the . 
 adherents of the great Earl of Warwick, and 
 
 forne 
 
Into south wales. 355 
 
 fome of the king's forces ; and that the town 
 was garrifoned for the parliament, after the bat- 
 tle of Edge-Hill, but furrendered to the king him- 
 felf, in a few days. 
 
 The old church, which was built of reddifh 
 (tone (dug in the neighbouring county of North- 
 a?7ipto?i) y and profufely ornamented with carving 
 and fculpture, being in a decayed condition, was 
 to have been taken down in the year 1791 ; but 
 before the workmen could prepare the fcarTold- 
 ing, this venerable fabric funk under the weight 
 of years, and fell of its own accord. 
 
 The modern edifice, which has been erected 
 on the fame fpot, is rather a heavy than an ele- 
 gant pile, but feems to polTefs great ftrength and 
 folidity. 
 
 The noble family of North contributed, we 
 were told, very liberally towards its erection ; 
 and between the period of the fall of the old 
 church, and the completion of the new one, 
 the dilTenters accommodated the inhabitants be- 
 longing to the eftabiifhment, with the ufe of 
 their meeting-houfe. 
 
 We rode through the little town of Brackley, 
 
 at the border of North wnptonJhire 9 and leaving 
 
 A a 2 the 
 
356 A JOURNEY 
 
 the Marquis of Buckingham's fuperb fioufe and 
 gardens, at Stowe, on the left, arrived at Buck- 
 ingham, which is a very indifferently built town % 
 and though it has the honour of giving name to 
 the county, and has conferred the titles of mar- 
 quis and duke on feveral noble families, enjoys 
 only a fhare of the public bufmefs ; the Lent af- 
 fizes and the quarter feflions being held at Aylef* 
 bury. 
 
 A new church has been built on an eminence, 
 called the " Cattle Hill," which, though a plain 
 and very neat ftructure, has no great degree of 
 beauty or elegance, and appears by much too 
 fmall for the town. Over the altar is a good 
 painting of the Transfiguration. 
 
 The County-Hall is a brick building, opening 
 into a large fquare, or market-place ; but the 
 cumbrous figure of a fwan (the arms of Bucking- 
 hamjhire), elevated on the roof, is a very difgufl- 
 ing and prepoflerous ornament. 
 
 Throughout the whole county of Buckingham, 
 the manufacture of thread lace is the principal 
 employment of the female inhabitants ; and the 
 perfection which it has attained, is really won- 
 derful. Black lace is alfo made, but in fmaller 
 quantities. 
 
 There 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2Si 
 
 There is an old bridge over the river Oufe, 
 which was formerly commanded by the caftle ; 
 fo that the approach of an enemy on the fouth 
 fide, muft have been extremely difficult, if at 
 all practicable. 
 
 Aa 
 
5 8 A JOURKEY 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 An Excurfwn to the Villages of Clay don, Hillefden, and Gren* 
 don Underwood, with a particular Account of their Parjjfa 
 
 Churches* 
 
 From Buckingham we turned off to the right 
 in order to examine fome of the village churches 
 in the neighbourhood, not with an intention of 
 making an obituary, or of merely collecting 
 their monumental infcriptions ; but becaufe every 
 Hone " is both an entertainment and a monitor " 
 and, as Horace obferves, 
 
 ft Omne tulit pun&um, qui mifcuit utile dulci, 
 6i LedPcorem dele£tandse, pariterque monendo." 
 
 Having croffed the Oufe, we rode through the 
 village of Padbury, leaving Addington, a feat of 
 the late Lady Tynte, on the left hand, and ap* 
 proached Middle Claydon, the magnificent refrV 
 dence of the late Ralph, Eail Verney, of the king- 
 dom of Ireland, and reprefentative in feveral par«^ 
 liaments for Buckingham/hire, 
 
 Claydon-Houfe is frtuated in a rich and fertile 
 country, furrounded by venerable woods, and 
 pafturage of the gayefl verdure. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 359 
 
 The grounds are in a (late of wild neglect, and 
 much of the fade, as well as fplendour of the 
 maiifion, has been deftroyed and annihilated. 
 
 Had the original plan been completed, Clay- 
 don would have far exceeded mod modern houfes 
 in the kingdom, in grandeur of defign, and flate- 
 linefs of arrangement. 
 
 Every thing here was gigantic ; the parj^, re- 
 markably fpacious, is furrounded with a high and 
 clofe fence, which effectually preferves it from en- 
 croachment : the water fpreads itfelf into a lake of 
 vail extent ; and is decorated with feveral iflands : 
 the offices are fo numerous, that they refemble a 
 little town ; and the houfe fo large, that the geo- 
 graphy of it is not readily to be under Mood. 
 
 Fronting the fouth-wefl was a grand fuite of 
 apartments, furmounted with a dome, on a no- 
 ble elevation, having in view a beautiful extent 
 of varying ground ; a river, two or three miles 
 long ; and an equeftrian ftatue on the oppofite 
 hill. The dome is now demoliihed, and alfo a 
 magnificent faloon and ball-room ; which, if 
 completed, would have been one of the mod 
 fpacious and codly apartments in Europe. 
 
 Over the faloon was a Befoidere, furrounded 
 by a gallery, which afforded a moil extenfive 2nd 
 delightful profpecl:. 
 
 A a 4 The 
 
%6o A JOURNEY 
 
 The library which, I believe, never yet con- 
 tained a Tingle book, is capable of holding about 
 eighty thoufand volumes. 
 
 Contiguous to the houfe, on the eaft, is a large 
 fquare, compofed of offices and fhops of every 
 defcription : for the eftablifhment of the late Earl 
 Verney was fo numerous, that it was thought ad- 
 vifeable, even to erecl: a mill, for the purpofe of 
 grinding corn for the confumption of the houfe* 
 hold. 
 
 This little town is, however, now deferted, but 
 while we regret the lofs of thofe halcyon days in 
 which Claydon flourifhed with luxurious abunaV 
 ance, we derive a! pleafmg confolation from the 
 amiable character of Lady Fermanagh the prefent 
 poiTeflbr, who is liberal, with prudence ; and 
 juft, as well as generous : for me has, as 
 Congreve fays, 
 
 *' The fenfe to value riches, with th* art 
 " T' enjoy them, and the virtue to impart j 
 11 To balance fortune by a juft expence, 
 « Join with ceconomy magnificence, 
 " With fplendour, chanty!" 
 
 The parifh church, which is only a few paces 
 diftant from the houfe, contains a monument, 
 erecled in memory of Sir Edmund Verney, knight, 
 ftandard-bearer to King Charles the firft, who 
 
 perilhed 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 36 1 
 
 perilhed at Edge-Hill, in the firft battle between 
 that monarch and his parliament. 
 
 Rode through Steeple Claydon, a large {bar- 
 tered village, to Hillefden, where was formerly 
 an old feat of the Dentom* 
 
 The church is a fmall gothic building, with a 
 round tower near the eaft end, and an octagon 
 one, at the weft. 
 
 The chancel is full of monumental infcrip- 
 tions of the Denions and I/loams, two families of 
 confiderable note. 
 
 On a black marble, in the north aifle of the 
 chancel, 
 
 f HERE LYES 
 
 " ALEXANDER DENTON, ESQ^ . 
 
 " WHO DIED 
 
 a 
 
 THE XVII OF OCTOBER MDCXCVIU 
 
 " IN THE XLIV YEAR OF 
 " HIS AGE." 
 
 On a white marble monument, on the fouth 
 fide of the altar, 
 
 NEAR THIS PLACE LIES INTERRED 
 
 a 
 
 " DR. WILLIAM DENTON, YOUNGEST SON OF SIR 
 6C THOMAS DENTON, OF HILLESDEN, KNIGHT. 
 u HE WAS PHYSICIAN TO KING CHARLESy THE 
 * c I 8T AMD 2 NF> . HE MARRIED CATHARINE, 
 * 6 DAUGHTER OF J3QSTGC& FULLER, OF TAN- 
 
 « BRIDGE 
 
^6'2 A JOURNEY 
 
 « c BRIDGE COURT, IN THE COUNTY OF SURRT, 
 " ESQUIRE, BY WHOME HE HAD ANNE, HIS 
 " ONLY DAUGHTER AND HEIR, THE WIFE OF 
 45 SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS^ KNIGHT, PRINCIPAL 
 ** SECRETARY OF STATE TO KING CHARLES THE 
 C6 1 st AND 2 N0 . 
 
 " HE DIED IN MARCH MDCLXXXXI, IN THE 
 cc LXXXVI YlAR OF HIS AGE. 
 
 * c BLESSED WITH THAT HAPPY COMPOSITION 
 cc OF BODY AND MIND, THAT PRESERVED HIM 
 " CHEARFULL EASY AND AGREEABLE TO THE 
 c \ LAST, AND ENDEARED HIM TO ALL THAT 
 " KNEW HIM." 
 
 This learned phyfician was alfo one of the 
 .Confervators of the .Corporation of the Great 
 Level of the Fens, in Cambridge/hire. 
 
 *' Here, the great mailers of the healing art, 
 '* Thefe mighty mock defrauders of the tomb* 
 ** 'Spite of their juleps and catholicons, 
 " Refign to fate. 
 
 * # ■ » * # # 
 
 te Tell us, thou doughty keeper from the grave, 
 *,' Where are thy recipes and cordials now ? 
 <s With the .long lift of vouchers for thy cure; 
 u Alas ! thou fpeakefl not V 
 
 On a fmall monurnenf a 
 
 « Near 
 
E< 
 
 CC 
 
 INTO SOUTH WALES. $6$ 
 
 cc Near this place lycth interred the body of the. 
 
 Honorable Godfrey Boate of the County of 
 
 Tipperary, Efq. one of the Juflices of his Ma- 
 
 jetty's Court of King's Bench in Ireland in the 
 
 reign of King George, the firfl. He married 
 " Gary firft daughter of Alexander Denton of 
 " Hillefden Efquire" 
 
 On a large black marble, 
 
 " Edmundus Denton Baronettus 
 u (Filius natu maximus Alex. Denton de Hill* 
 <( e s den Armiger i, et Estherje uxoris ejus, Filige 
 " unicae et hasredis Niceolai Herman de Mid- 
 " dle'Ton Stony in Agro Gxon. Armigeri) obiit 
 tc quarto die Maii mdccxiv astatis 38." 
 
 On another, 
 
 " Mart Rowe Vifcountefs of Hillsborough 
 <c Daughter otAxTONrRowE Efq of the County 
 " of Middlesex, had for her firfl hufband Sir 
 cc Edmund Denton Baronet of Hillesden 9 
 cc and for her fecond, the Right Honourable Lord 
 " Vifcount Hillsborough of the Kingdom of 
 Ci Ireland; died August 23 d 1742 aged 58.'* 
 
 On another; 
 
 M Mrs. DorothtDenton the feventh Daugh- 
 £* ter of Six Alexander Denton of Hillesden 
 
 " Knt. 
 
364 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Knt. by Mary the Daughter and Coheir of 
 * c Edmund Hampden of Hart well in the 
 " County of Bucks Efq. died the 14 day of 
 
 2, 
 
 Anno 
 
 CDni 171 
 
 iiEt. 75 . 
 
 On a large monument, confiding of a pyra- 
 midal piece of dark clouded marble, rifing 
 from behind an antique farcophagus, and orna* 
 mented with bulls, is the following : 
 " JVL S. 
 " Catharinje Denton 
 
 €i JOHANNISBOND DE SuNDRISH IN COMITATE 
 
 " Cantii, vilije et h^eredis 
 ** uxoris autem honorabilis viri 
 " Alexandri Denton eojjitis 
 " e justiciariis de banco, 
 u it celcissimo wall1m principi frederick 
 « Cancellarii. 
 • " siste et defle. 
 * 6 tantis virtut1eus fceminam ornatam 
 " morte immatura esse prereptam 
 ** pietate erga deum non simulata 
 
 " amore in maritum casto 
 
 " liberalitate in ege.nos prompta 
 
 ** comitate in omnes singulart 
 
 " NOTIS 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 365 
 
 * c NOTIS ATQ^ AMICIS CHARA VIXIT 
 
 u UTILE EXEMPLAR OMNIBUS RELIQUIT. 
 
 " TRACTO TANDEM MORBIS CORPORE, 
 
 t€ ANIMO TAMEN DOLORIBUS INVICTO 
 
 " VITA CESSIT 
 
 " DIE XXVI MENSIS JUNII ANNO SALUTIS 1733 
 
 " XXXIX ANNOS NATA 
 
 * c UXORI OPTIMA MARITUS 
 " AMORIS ERGA 
 
 <c M. M. P." 
 
 A neat white marble flab, near the monument* 
 has the following infcription: 
 
 u HERE LIETH THE BODY OF THE HONOUR- 
 <c ABLE ALEXANDER DENTON, ESQ^ ONE OF THE 
 <c JUSTICES OF BIS' MAJESTIES COURT OF COM- 
 " MON PLEAS, AND CHANCELLOR TO HIS ROYAL 
 ■" HIGHNESS the PRINCE OF WALES ; WHO DIED 
 " THE 2 2 ri of MARCH ANNO DOMINI 1 73 9 iETATIS 
 " SUiE 6l." 
 
 On a white marble monument, ere£led againft 
 the fouth wall of the chancel : 
 
 <c Near this place lies interred the body of 
 " George Wood w a r d Efq . Envoy Extraordi* 
 66 nary from the King of Great Britain ft? the 
 " King and Republic ^Poland. He was the 
 " Grandfon o/GlorgeWoodwap.d ofSrRATOH 
 " Audley in the County of Oxford Efq. and 
 
 fi Ann 
 
266 A JOURNEY 
 
 c< Ann his Wife, one of the Daughters of Sir Alex- 
 " a n d £R Den ton K fit. he died at Warsaw the 
 " i oth of November in the year of our Lord 1735, 
 " and in the 38/Z? year of his age. 
 
 On a black marble, at the eafl end of the 
 north aifle, 
 
 " To the memory of 
 cc Elizabeth Daughter of Sir Thomas Benton 
 " of Hillefden in the County of Bucks Knt. 
 " late Wife of Thomas IJham Elq. 
 " Son of Sir Eufeby IJham of Pitchley 
 " in the County of Northampton, 
 " by whom he had two Sons, and one Daughter ; 
 " of which three, her fon Thomas is only living. 
 " She died on the 20th of September 1667 
 " in the 51ft year of 
 " her age. 
 fC Pia Mater, Certa Arnica, Optima Conjux 5 
 " hie jacet. 
 " Quae virtute fua praelucet vivis 
 " Sibique fit fuperfles 
 " Matrona tarn tenax 
 " Amicitise tarn jurata cultrix 
 6C ut nunquam amicos 
 
 " magis fugerit 
 
 " qua in in eo temp oris 
 
 4C articulo quo morte eft. 
 
 cc 
 
 Tali 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES- 367 
 
 cc Tali et tain digna prasrepta 
 u Conjuge (ipfo lumine chariore) 
 " Deus mariti ccecitatem munifice 
 
 " compenfabit, 
 
 " Tali ne exemplum delebit Urna 
 
 C£ In cum defuefcarit cineres 
 
 " Pati veftigia." 
 
 On the north fide of the church-yard, there 
 
 is a frone crofs, but no account of its origin 
 
 could be obtained. 
 
 From Hillefden we pafTed through Edgcott, a 
 fmall village, to Grendon Underwood, a very dirty 
 place ; infomuch, that it has been proverbially 
 celebrated in this couplet : 
 
 *' Grendon Underwood, , 
 
 " The dirhcjl town that ever flood." 
 
 It is fituated on the borders of what was once 
 called Bern-wood Foreft ; but it is now a country 
 rich in corn fields and pafturage. 
 
 The name of the village is probably derived 
 from the fmall verdant eminence weftward of 
 the Parfonage, Green don, in Saxon, fignifying 
 a greQii hill. 
 
 In the church, which is a neat gothic build- 
 ing, is an elegant monument by Sbeemaker, re- 
 
 prefenting 
 
$68 A JOURNEY 
 
 preferred a gentleman, in a recumbent: pofture, 
 and above, the medallion of a youth. The in* 
 fcription is as follows : 
 
 ce 
 
 JOHN PIGOTT 
 
 <c OF DODDERSHALL ESQ^. AND ONE OF HIS MA- 
 " JESTIES JUSTICES OF PEACE FOR THE COUNTY 
 " OF BUCKS, DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 24™ 
 cc DAY OF SEPTEMBER IN THE YEAR OF OUR LOR B 
 <« I75I, AND IN THE 47 th YEAR OF HJS AGE.'* 
 
 cc HE WAS THE SECOND SON OF ROBERT PIG07T 
 cc OF CHETWYN IN TH£ COUNTY OF SALOP ESQ^ 
 C( AND AS SUCH ENJOYED THE MANORS OF 
 * c GRENDON UNDERWOOD AND DODDERSHALL IN 
 " THIS COUNTY BY VIRTUE OF A SETTLEMENT 
 " MADE OF THOSE MANORS UPON THE SECOND 
 " SON OF THAT FAMILY, BY THOMAS PIGOTT ESQ^ 
 tc THE LAST HEIR MALE OF THE ANCIENT FA- 
 " MILY OF THE PIGOTTS OF DODDERSHALL. 
 
 " HE MARRIED CHRISTOEELLA ONE OF THE 
 <c DAUGHTERS AND COHEIRS OF SIR THOMAS 
 " TYRREL OF C ASTLETFIORFE IN THE COUNTY 
 * c OF BUCKS, BARONET, WHO SURVIVED HIM, 
 " AND RECEIVED AN AMPLE TESTIMONY OF THE 
 4C GREAT REGARD AND AFFECTION WITH WHICH 
 " HE HONOURED HER WHILST LIVING, BY THE 
 IQ " GENE- 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 369 
 
 * C GENKROUS PROVISION HE MADE FOR HER, BY 
 U HIS WILL, AT HIS DEATH. 
 
 " HE HAD ISSUE ONLY ONE SON RoEERT 
 <c Picon' WHO WAS BORN JULT THE 5™ IN THE 
 cc YEAR OF OUR LORD 1735, AND DIED AT 
 <c SCHOOL, THE 2J\ n DAY OF NOVEMBER, IN 
 " THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 1747, AND IN THE 
 « I3TH YEAR OF HIS AGEJ TO THE INEXPRES- 
 <c S.BLE LOSS AND AFFLICTION OF BOTH HIS 
 " PARENTS. 
 
 *' ChRISTOBELLA PlGOTT HATH CAUSED THIS 
 " MONUMENT TO BE ERECTED TO THE MEMO- 
 " RY OF HER EVER HONOURED HUSBAND, AND 
 cc DEAR SON, WHO BOTH LIE BURIED TOGETHER 
 " UNDERNEATH THIS CHANCEL, WHERE SHE 
 " INTENDS ALSO TO BE BURIED WITH THEM; 
 w AND HOP; S TO R:SE WITH THEM IN GLORY, 
 " AT THE LAST DAY." 
 
 Over the north door of the chancel is a very 
 fmall and neat tablet, thus infcribed : 
 " to the memory of 
 " Harriot Lamb 
 " daughter of sir thomas tlrrell bar? 
 " of castlethorpe in this county j 
 <c and sister of viscountess say and sele 3 
 Bb "in 
 
370 A JOURNEY 
 
 " IN WHOSE VAULT, HER REMAINS 
 cc WERE DEPOSITED 
 
 " according to her own desire. 
 
 " she died September i8t h 17^5^ 
 
 On a fmall black marble, in the floor^ 
 
 " in 
 
 " memory of 
 
 '* James Lamb, esq. 
 
 " of kidl1ngt0n 
 
 <e IN OXFORDSHIRE, 
 
 fc WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE 
 
 " I S . T NOV*. 1777, 
 
 " AGED 75 
 
 €C YEARS." 
 
 On a piece of white marble, placed lozenge 
 wife, within the communion rails, 
 " Under this ftone 
 " lieth the body of 
 Francis Grefley L. L. B. 
 20 years Reclor of this Parifh. 
 He died Dec. 30, A. D. 1778 
 
 cc 
 cc 
 
 " aged 66 years. 
 
 f* Reader learn from Ms example 
 
 " to love and fear 
 
 « £0D; 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 37I 
 
 ** to be in charity with all men, 
 - " and to expect 
 " thy reward in 
 " Heaven!" 
 On another, 
 
 " In memory of 
 
 " Mary Relicl of 
 
 " Francis Gre/ley 
 
 " who died 
 
 C€ Auguft 10th, 1782 
 
 « aged 54." 
 
 <3n an oval marble, againfl the fouth wall, 
 
 " Underneath this ftone 
 
 " repo&/& 
 
 " the remains 
 
 « of 
 
 <c Margaret Sufanna Litikhales 
 
 " Second Daughter 
 
 " of 
 
 « the rev d Do&. Littlehales 
 
 " Rettor of this Parijh 
 
 " and 
 " Margaret his wife. 
 
 ** She departed this life the 8th day of Sept. 
 " 1786 
 
 " aged 12 years. 
 
 B b 2 « Rdeas'd 
 
37^ A JOURNEY 
 
 " Releas'd, bleft maid, from ev'ry woe, 
 
 *' Beyond the reach of pain, 
 '• Thy friends one confolation know, 
 
 *' 'Tis meeting thee again. 
 " When th' archangel calls thee forth, 
 
 " And fouls and bodies join, 
 *' What crouds will wifh their time on earth, 
 
 " Had been as fhort as thine." 
 
 Among other memorials in the church-yard 
 Is the following : 
 
 <c Sacred 
 
 <c to the Memory of 
 
 " Thomas George, who died 
 
 " September i, 1786, aged 45 years: 
 
 * 6 and of 
 
 <c Frances 
 
 <c his wife, who died 
 
 €C Auguft 28, in the fame year, aged. 37 years,, 
 
 " If filial piety, 
 <c If conjugal affe&ion, 
 <c If parental tendernefs, 
 c< may claim the tribute of 
 " a figh, 
 " Reader! 
 " let the tear of fympathy 
 " bear witnefs of 
 
 cc the virtues 
 * here deposited." 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. ^73 
 
 The walls of the church are covered with 
 texts of fcripture, enforcing feveral moral duties ; 
 and at the weft end are rude figures of Time 
 and Death. 
 
 As thefe ornaments appear to have been fet 
 up at the deftruclion of the Rood-loft, at the Re- 
 formation, a conjecture may be permitted, that 
 in fmall churches the loft might have been placed 
 at the weft end, inftead of between the church 
 and chancel, 
 
 I am not ignorant that it has been dated, that 
 the rood-loft was neccffarily placed between the 
 church and chancel ; that ail who entered the 
 latter muft pafs under the crofs : but this typifi- 
 cation of the fuflerings and duties of the Chrif- 
 tian warfare, feems to favour more of the fym« 
 boh and fpiritualizing of fome modern fects than 
 to be a real account of matter of fact : and a 
 learned author, who lived foon after the time of 
 Popery, in fome degree ftrengthens this opinion, 
 by acknowledging himfelf uncertain of the Jitua* 
 tion of the rood-loft. 
 
 Bb 3 
 
374 A JOURNEf 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Dodder/hall. — Sguainton. — The Church. — ^Monuments. 
 
 From Grendon Underwood we rode through a 
 fylvan country to DodderJhaM, the ancient feat of 
 £he Pigotts, which contains fome family pi&ures, 
 but is much negle&ed ; and from thence to Lee- 
 Grange, formerly the residence of the Dormers? 
 but now converted into a farm-houfe. 
 
 A chain of fifli ponds, and a few venerable 
 oaks are the only remaining indications of it& 
 former confequenee. 
 
 On a neighbouring hill a beautiful fcreen of 
 trees has been planted, which is feen at a great 
 didance, and is an elegant ornament to the com' 
 fields and fmoothly fhorn meadows contiguous. 
 
 Arrived at ^uainton, a large, regular, and- 
 populous village, fituated at the foot of a noble 
 hill, which prefents from its fummit, perhaps the 
 mod extenfive inland profpecl to be met with in 
 the kingdom 5 for the horizon on the weft and^ 
 north fides is an imaginary connexion between 
 ih§ clouds and the plainy— -the true boundary 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 2>7 S 
 
 being only the weaknefs of vifion, for there arc 
 no hills to interrupt the profpecl:. 
 
 The eye commands a much greater extent 
 here than on Malvern, but it wants the Severn; 
 for although where the view is mod confined 
 it reaches at lead twenty miles, not a fingle river 
 can be difcerned. 
 
 More than fifty parifii churches may be diftin- 
 guifhed, and numerous feats of the nobility, and 
 other perfons of fortune* 
 
 " Ah happy hills ! ah ! pleafing fhade ! 
 
 M Ah fields belov'd in vain ! 
 
 " Where once my carelefs childhood ftray'dj 
 
 " A ftranger yet to pain ! 
 
 M I feel, the gales that from ye blow, 
 
 '" A momentary blifs beftow, 
 
 " As waving frefh their gladfome wing, 
 
 " My weary foul they feem to foothe, 
 
 " And redolent of joy and youth, 
 
 t( To breathe a fecond fpring." 
 
 The parifh is a rectory of confiderable value* 
 the hamlets of Dodder/hall, Lee-Grange and Den* 
 bam, being incorporated with it. 
 
 The church is of a refpectable fize, and pro- 
 bably was erected about the reign of Edward 
 the third, or perhaps earlier, 
 
 Bb 4 fe 
 
37$ A JOURNEY 
 
 It ftands on a rifmg ground, at the eaftern ex* 
 tremity of the village, and is remarkable for 
 having in the church-yard one of the largeft elm 
 trees in England. 
 
 This tree grows near the entrance, anciently 
 called the Lyche gate, and at funerals the cuf- 
 tom is (till retained of refting the corpfes under 
 it till the clergyman comes to meet the pro- 
 ceffion. The tower as well as the church is 
 embattled, and at the four corners are four gro- 
 tefque figures, probably of daemons, which, in 
 ancient times, were fuppofed to fly away at the 
 found of bells, which, on being put up, were 
 ufualiy fprinkled with holy water. 
 
 The building confifts of three aifles, and there 
 is a neat gallery at the weft end, with a fmall organ. 
 
 In the abutment of the main arch leading to 
 the chancel, the winding flairs ftill remain, which 
 formerly led to the rood-loft; and on the par- 
 titions of wood work between the church and 
 the belfrey, are fome ancient figures of faints, 
 indifferently painted ; but all the coloured glafs 
 has been removed from the windows. 
 
 In the chancel are feveral monuments of great 
 elegance, which are truly worthy of the atten- 
 tion of the curious. 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 377 
 
 The fir ft, on the left hand, is executed in a 
 very mafterly manner. An emaciated figure of 
 a young man is reclining on cufhions, feemingly 
 worn out by a confumption. At the feet is a 
 lady (his mother) kneeling, and -in tears. At 
 the head (lands his father, dreffed in his robes as 
 a judge, with a countenance flrikingly expreffive 
 of a great foul, ffruggling with the keenefl an- 
 guifh. 
 
 Thefe figures are remarkably fine, and the 
 finifhing of the whole is admirable., I think the 
 hand of the judge and the countenance of the 
 young man, can fcarcely be excelled. 
 
 A pyramid of white marble rifes in the back 
 ground, and an arch of variegated marble is 
 crowned with the family arms. 
 
 ■' interred in one vault in the middle of 
 '• church, lye the bodies of the honourable 
 " Robert Dormer, esq., of Lee-Grange, in this 
 ** parish, late one of the justices of the 
 " court of common pleas, at westminster: 
 •' as also of Mary, his wife, the daughter 
 '• of sir Richard Blake, knt. deceased the 
 m 16th of march, 1728; and of fleetwood 
 < Dormer, eso^their only son, who died the 
 " 2istof june, 1726, in the 3oth year of his 
 c< ace, a young gentleman of great merit, 
 
 <c AN© 
 
Cj^S ' A JOURNEY 
 
 df AND YET GREATER EXPECTATIONS. Of AN EX- 
 c * CELLENT GOOD DISPOSITION OF MIND, AND PER4 
 ,r FECTLY WELL ACCOMPLISHED, WHO HAD REN- 
 * C DERED HIMSELF MOST DEAR TO His FRIENDS 
 •' AND RELATIONS, BUT CHIEFLY TO HIS PARENTS, 
 " WHOM HE LEFT INCONSOLABLE, INSOMUCH THAT 
 i( HIS FATHER, UNABLE TO SUPPORT HIMSELF UN" 
 *' DER SO GREAT A GRIEF OF MIND, SURVIVED BUT 
 u FEW MONTHS, DECEASING ON THE iBtH OF SEP- 
 tc TEMBER, IN THE 77TH YEAR OF HIS AGE, AND 
 *' OF THE CHRISTIAN iERA, 1726. 
 
 4i the said Robert Dormer was the second 
 * l son of John Dormer, of Lee-Grange, esq^, 
 
 *' BEING A BRANCH OF THE ANCIENT AND NOBLE 
 te FAMILY OF THE DORMERS, WHO HAVE LONG 
 " FLOURISHED IN THIS COUNTY, FOR WHICH HE 
 " HAD THE HONOUR TO BE CHOSEN TWICE A RE- 
 t€ PRESENTATIVE IN PARLIAMENT, AS ALSO ONCE 
 « FOR THE BOROUGH OF AYLESBURT, AND SEVERAL 
 
 ,c times for Northallerton, in Yorkshire, 
 
 se TILL SUCH TIME THAT HE WAS ADVANCED TO 
 " THE HONOURABLE BENCH, WHICH POST HE FIL- 
 f£ LED WITH GREAT LEARNING AND INTEGRITY, 
 €i DURING THE SPACE OF ABOVE TWENTY YEA.RS, 
 " ENJOYING IT TO THE END OF HIS LIFE. BY THE 
 " DEATH OF HIS ELDER BROTHER SIR JOHN Doit 
 " MER, AND HIS NEPHEW SIR WlLLIAM D0RM£R f 
 * ( BARONETS, WITHOUT ISSUE MALE, THE ESTATE 
 
 «« at Lee-Grange devolved upon him, and is 
 1 j «« now 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. $79 
 
 *' NOW DESCENDED TO HIS FOUR DAUGHTERS 
 
 f Mart, Catharine, Elizabeth, married to 
 
 ** THE HONOURABLE SIR JOHN FORTESCUE ALAND? 
 
 ei of Knov/l's Hill, in the county of Essex, 
 " knt. and one of the justices of the court 
 " of common pleas, and rlcharda, the wife 
 * of John Parkhurst, of Catesbt, in the 
 *' county of Northampton, eso^ besides these 
 '* he had also a son and two daughters, who 
 
 ** DIED IN THEIR INFANCY. 
 
 " this monument was begun by the direc- 
 •* tion of Mart Dormer, his widow, in her 
 *' life time, but she dying before the same 
 *' was finished, it is now erected (but at 
 
 " HER SOLE EXPENCE} AND CONSECRATED, BY THE 
 ** DAUGHTERS AND THEIR HUSBANDS, TO THE 
 * c MEMORY OF THEIR DEAREST FATHER, MOTHER* 
 ** AND BROTHER. 
 
 " ANNO DOM. I730." 
 
 The above mentioned Sir John Forte/cm 
 Aland was a Do&or of Laws, and Fellow of the 
 Royal Society. His feat at Knowl's Hill, oncer 
 the refidence of Henry Spencer, Bifhop of Nor* 
 wich, has been celebrated in a defcriptive poem 
 by Mr. Barford.' 
 
 On a very fmall piece of marble, at the en- 
 trance of the chancel : 
 
 « Here 
 
$$Q A JOURNEY 
 
 u Here lyeth the body of Richard 
 " Pigoty Efq. eldefl fori of Sir Richard 
 " Pigoty of Dotherfhall, Knt. by Dame 
 " Anne his wife, eldefl daughter of 
 " Sir Edward Harrington, Baro- 
 " net, who died at the age of fix weeks. 
 " a. d. 1634." 
 
 On another : 
 
 * c Here lyeth the body of Margery 
 " Pigoty daughter of Sir Richard 
 " Pigoty of Boiherjhally , Knt. by Dame 
 " Anne, his wife, eldefl daughter of 
 " Sir Edward Harringtony Baronet, 
 " who died at the age of 1 8 weeks. 
 " a. d. 1 643" 
 
 On another : 
 
 " HERE LYETH THE BODY OF 
 
 " Lettice, 
 " daughter of the hon—' thomas 
 *■ Coote, of Dublin, in Ireland, 
 « Esq. BY DAME Anne, HIS WIFE, 
 *' HE DEPARTED THIS LIFE AT DOD- 
 « DERSHALL, APRIL Y E 7TH, 1 693, 
 " AGED 2 YEARS AND II MONTHS." 
 
 on 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 38 I 
 
 On another : 
 
 " Talium eft regnum Dei 
 
 " Fleetwood Dormer ', eldefifonof 
 
 " Robert Dormer, Efq. 
 
 " by Mary his wife, 
 
 " Daughter and coheir e of 
 
 Sir Richard Blake, 
 
 " lyes here interred : 
 
 <c bee begann this mortall life 
 
 " the 6th day of Augufi, 
 
 u in the year of our Lord, 1693, 
 
 " and exchanged the light of 
 
 M this world 
 
 " for that which is eternal 
 
 " on the gth day of June, 
 
 « 1695. 
 
 te ^uicunque non exceperit regnum Dei 
 
 " ut puerulus, necpiaquam in id 
 
 " ingrediaiur" 
 
 On another : 
 
 H. 5. E. 
 
 " ANNA DORMER 
 
 " FILIM HONORABILI VIRI 
 
 t( ROBERTI DORMER ARMIG ; 
 
 " ET MARINE UXORJS EJUS 
 
 « OS JIT ANNO DOMINI, M. Z>. C. C. V. 7. 
 
 " DIE 
 
$$Z A JOURNEY 
 
 " DIE J UNI I XVI 
 
 <e MT ATI S SUM 
 
 " MENSE DECIMO OCTAVO 
 
 CORPUS TERRM MANDATUM 
 
 " ANIMA DEO REDDITA. 
 
 « SATIS VIXIT, 
 
 " CUM DECESSIT IN DOMINO " 
 
 On the north fide of the chancel is a monument; 
 of variegated marble, divided into compartments^ 
 .decorated with urns and weeping boys, It is 
 charged with no lefs than four infcriptions. 
 
 " Hie jacet 
 
 cc Quantum vlrtutis vivere ! 
 
 " Quantum pietatis mori ! 
 
 " potuit 
 
 &€ Fleeiwoodus Dormer, de Lee Grange, Eques* 
 
 cc p e f r i Dormer, et Margarita, 
 
 tc Thoma Fleetwood Armigeri Filise 
 
 u ex illuftri Familia Fleetwoodorum 
 
 " de Chalfunt in Agro Buck. 
 
 " Proles unica, 
 
 €C Conjugem duxit Mariam 
 
 « e Filiam Eufebii IJham, de IJham, 
 
 " in Comitatu North amp . 
 
 " ex ordine Equeftri j 
 
 " ex hac 
 
 " Filiorura 
 
INTO SOUTH W41ES, 383 
 
 ^ Filiorum Filiarumq; vicenario numero 
 
 « Pater fadus 
 
 " Poftea non tarn fatis conceflit 
 
 " Sed qua dignus vixit, Immortalitati 
 
 " Magnum hoc viventium exemplar 
 
 " et morientiiT decus. 
 
 " Obiit primo Februarii, An. D. 1638 
 
 " Starts fuas 68. 
 
 f* Gratitudinis ergo, Hoc monumentum pie 
 
 " pofuit 
 
 ec Filius natu maximus 
 
 " Johannis Dormer" 
 
 H. S. E. 
 
 jfoHANNis Dormer armiger 
 
 " be Lee Grange, in hac vicinA 
 
 f Fleetwoodi Dormer, equitis aurati 
 
 " EILIUS NATU MAXIMUS 
 
 * 6 VIR INGENIO, ERUDITIONE, ET VIRTUTE 
 
 " PR^ESTANTI : 
 
 ¥ MORES URBESQUE MULTORUM HOMINUM VIDITo 
 
 " IN SENATORIUM ORDINEM COOPTATUS 
 
 ct PATRIAE JURA LIBERTATEM RELIGIONEMQ.J 
 
 " EGREGIE COLUIT ET DEFENDIT. 
 
 * ET UXORE CaTHERINA 
 
 ff Thomje Woodward armigeri filia unica 
 
 " ET H^REDE 
 
 « 
 
 SEX 
 
384 -A JOURNEY 
 
 <c SEX LIBEROS SUSCEPIT, 
 « JOHANNEM, ROBERTUM, FlEETWOODUA£ 
 
 *< Mariam^ Catharinam, An nam. 
 
 " obiit die xx1j maii ann. christ. mdclxxix 
 
 " jETatis svje lxviij." 
 
 " H. S. E. 
 
 " Fleetwoodus Dormer Miles 
 
 <c de Arle Court , in agro Goceftrlenjt 
 
 €C Fleetwood! Dormer Equitis Aurati Filius natu* 
 
 " Latine, Grasce, Hebraice, 
 
 " do&us. 
 
 " Bello Civili partes et fidem, 
 
 " fecutus eft. 
 
 " In Virginia American regione aliquandiu 
 
 " fedem fixit. 
 
 " In matrimoniam duxit 
 
 " Catharinam Ligon 
 
 " Filiam et cohasredem Johannis Ligon Arm. 
 
 * c Eaq; defuncta Mariam Harris 
 
 " fed in utroq; conjugio expers Liberorum 
 
 " Robertum Dormer ex Fratre, Nepotem 
 
 " Hssredem inftituit. 
 
 " Deceflit die xxvj Augujli 
 
 " JErss Chrifli mdcxcvi 
 
 " annos natus lxxxi." 
 
 The above mentioned Catharine Ligon inherited 
 the porlenlon of Arle Courts which came into her 
 
 family 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 385 
 
 family by the intermarriage of her anceftor, Sir 
 Richard Ligon, with the daughter of Judge 
 Grevil. She died in 1678, aged 72, and lies 
 buried, according to Mr. Rudder , at Cheltenham* 
 in Glocejierjhire. 
 
 The fourth infcription is as follows : 
 " Robertas Dormer Arm. 
 " Memoriae Patris et Patrui 
 cc de fe optima meritoruni 
 " Marmora hssc confecravit 
 <f Honoris Pietatifq; caufa." 
 
 On the fame fide, but within the rails and 
 near the communion table, is a fumptuous monu- 
 ment of Sienna marble, with pillars and pilafters 
 of the raoft beautiful porphyry, fupporting a 
 richly ornamented frize and architrave. A far- 
 cophagus of black marble with yellow veins reds 
 on eagles' claws on a flab of verd antique. 
 
 " HERE LIETH 
 
 « IN HOPES OF 
 
 " A 
 
 " BLESSED RESURRECTION 
 
 « SIR RICHARD PIGOTT, OF DODDERSHALL, IN THIS 
 
 ■ COUNTY, KNT. DESCENDED FROM THE ANCIENT FA- 
 " MILY OF THE PIGOTTS OF W ADDON, IN THfS COUNTT. 
 
 « HE MARRIED ANN, DAUGHTER OF SIR EDWARD 
 « HARRINGTON, OF MERTONIN THE CCUNTTOV OXON. 
 « BART. HE DIED WITHOUT ISSUE IN APRIL 16^5, AND 
 « DAME ANN, HIS WIFE, IN JANUART, 1688. 
 
 « HERE LIETH ALSO THOMAS PIGOTT OF DODDER- 
 
 ■ SHALL ESO^ NEPHEW AND HEIR TO THE ABOVE MEN* 
 " TIONED SIR RICHARD PIGOTT. HE MARRIED LETTICE 
 
 C c « ELDEST 
 

 386 A JOURNEY 
 
 " ELDEST DAUGHTER AND COHEIRESS TO ROBERT L0- 
 " FETT, OF ZZSC0MJ2, IN THIS COUNTY, ESQ^BY WHOM 
 " HE HAD ISSUE TWO SONS, WHO BOTH DIED IN THEIR 
 " INFANCY. 
 
 « HE DEPARTED THIS LIFE IN MARCH, 1704, IN THfc 
 " 60TH YEAR OF HIS AGE. 
 
 " ZETTZCE, HIS WIDOW, WHO LiETH HERE ALSO, DIED 
 " NOVEMBER THE 18TH 1735, AGED 84." 
 
 To this lad mentioned lady the parifh is in- 
 debted for a fuperb pulpit cloth and cufhion, of 
 crimfon velvet, richly laced, and fringed with 
 gold, and embroidered with her arms, and the 
 initials of her name. 
 
 On the fouth fide of the altar 9 on a white 
 
 ftone : 
 
 " H. S. E. 
 
 " Galfridus Ekins 
 
 " Galfridi Ekins 
 
 66 hujus ecclefise paftoris 
 
 " et Anns uxoris 
 
 " Filius : 
 
 <c Mortem obiit infans 
 
 " Anno 1770 
 
 " Hau ! fpes abreptas breves.*' 
 
 Beneath the effigy of a prieft, in brafs, in the 
 
 the old letter : 
 
 " aiurquig txi§ qui tvzmUtm ffia plegs 
 *• gljwa Mqpi tvi$ fueroq; eg p mt 
 
 « pitcor ova." 
 
 Round 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 387 
 
 Round the verge 
 
 " f£ic jacet apagiffer 3laue~g 
 
 " ©pence qtiontrnm Keaor j&ujug ecclie' 
 " tie ©Benton qui nhiit tnrc Brno tae meTe ©ep- 
 cc tebf 3una tDotn, ttuccc, ♦ ♦ ♦ 
 «<♦♦'♦♦♦ Iot& cuf ate ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 2Deu&" 
 
 Againft the fouth wall is a fmall painted mo« 
 nument, with the figure of a man in a doc. 
 tor's gown, his wife, with a large ruff, and 
 four children, all kneeling. 
 
 Above their heads is this fentence : 
 
 " Verbum Dei manet in eternu ." 
 
 The faces, as well as apparel, are painted y 
 the hair is reprefented with powder, and there 
 are imitations of pieces of needle -work, hung up 
 in frames, by way of ornament to the little clo- 
 fet in which the family is aflembled. 
 
 Below are the following infcriptions, in gold 
 letters : 
 
 AT t : • • - • 
 
 Pro v. Ch. x. v. vif. 
 ** rov dyuva, toy x&Xov H yuvwp.o<,i 
 '* tov ^pejuf TfTfAExa ty\v Xigiu 
 
 <C TETH^SJCa ACH7T0V QLTrQKZ ITOCfAOlQ T~H£« 
 
 — -$Moaoo-ooiH$ rztpocvos oy ct7TQ$wru 
 
 C c 3 The 
 
388 A JOURNEY 
 
 " BEAT^E MEMORIA 
 " VIRI TAM DOCTRINA QUAM PIETATE 
 sc EXIMI LINGUIS, LATINA, GR^CA, H-ffiBRAI- 
 " CA, CHALDAICA, SYRIAC.&, ARABICA, JETH1- 
 iC OPICA AD CRITIC1SM~U USQJPERITI VERNACU- 
 < c LJE BIBLIOM. EDITIONIS NOVISSIMjE, PARI- 
 <c TER ET ACCURATISSIM^E AUCTORIS INTER 
 " NOMINATISS 7 . CONSPICUI, PASTORIS OCCU- 
 " LATISS 1 . VERB! D1VINI PR^ECORIS MAXIME 
 " S^DUjLI, MARITI FID£LISS T . AMICI CON- 
 " JUNCTISS 1 .PROPINQUI IN AUGUSTUS PROXI- 
 * c MI, DIVITIB S . ET PAUPERIB. PER^EQ^ CHARI, 
 " DE ECCLESlA. DEI LABORIB 8 . PRIVATIS ET 
 a PUBLICIS OPTIME MERIT1 RICHARDI BRETT 
 
 M 55* theol: doctoris digniss 1 . huj s . ec- 
 
 K CLEST.E PER 42 ANNOS RECTORIS VIGILEN- 
 " TISS 1 . qui PER MORTIS CORPORALIS JANU- 
 " AM AD VlT-ffi ^T£RNiE PROGRESSUS EST 
 •«« ATRIUM, AN°. jETATIS SU^E 70. 
 
 " HOC MONUMENTUM MOERENS DICAVIT, 
 " CHARISSIMA EJUS PER 39 ANNOS THORr 
 " CONJUGALIS CONSORS ALICIA BRETT A°. D T . 
 « 1637. 
 
 " Infallitur inclufum, fubje&um pulvere Brettutn 
 " Qui cogitat Chrifto vivit et ufq; viret. 
 
 16 Infteed of weeping marble, weepe for him 
 *' All ye his flock, whom he did firive to wmn 
 " To Chrift, to lyfe, fo mail you duly fett 
 «« The moil defircd ftone on Do&or §rett." 
 
 Which 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 389 
 
 Which jingling rhymes, and affected latiniza- 
 tion, remind me of a whimfical couplet pro. 
 duced by a waggiih fellow, by way of epitaph, 
 for the late architect Sir William Browne. 
 
 " Per totum Toivmtm 
 
 " Defun&um plaugite Brotvnum. 19 
 
 The tranflation of the Bible, in the reign of 
 King James the fir ft, was undertaken and com- 
 pleted by 47 perfons, who were divided into fix 
 companies : two from Oxford, two from Cam- 
 bridge, and two from Wcflminjier. Dr. Brett, 
 then A. M. was of Lincoln College ; the reft of 
 the Oxford men were Dr. Harding of Magdalen, 
 J. Reynold^ prefident of C. C. C. T. Holland, 
 rector of Exeter, Richard Kilby of Lincoln, Miles 
 Smyth of Brazen-nofe, R. Fair dough of New Col- 
 lege, G. Abbot, aean of Winton, mailer of Univer- 
 Jity Col. (afterwards Archbifhop of Canterbury}) 
 Giles Thompfon, dean of Wind/or, of All Souls, 
 (afterwards Biihop of Gloccfter^) John Harman, 
 warden of Winton (and fometime Regius Profef- 
 for of Greek), John Aglionby, principal of Ed- 
 mund Hall, John Perin, Greek reader, fellow of 
 St. John's Col. and canon, of Ch. Ch. Leonard 
 Huttcn, canon of Ch. Ch. To thefe w£re alio 
 added Dr. Thomas Ravis, dean of Ch. Ch. and 
 Sir Hmry Sayill, warden of Merton, 
 
 C c 3 Near 
 
39° A JOURNEY 
 
 Near the fteps leading to the altar, are the 
 following words, on a brafs plate : 
 
 " feic facet fcnjfrjofi^ $z\kp$ Qtiottlf ffiettor 
 " tttlit t)t ffiupntoif qui abut ti do hit jfto- 
 <c pmW. a° + ©ifu *p° cccc°. m\°* m? ate pro 
 " m if ♦ &me~." 
 
 On another, under a female figure : 
 
 * r Here lyeth buryed under this flone Maif- 
 " tres Margery Verney late Wyfe to S r RaufF 
 •* Verney Knyght &; oon of the doughters and 
 u heires of maift r . John Jwardby fquyer fum 
 Cft tyme lord of this towne, which Margery de- 
 '* cefTed the xxvj day of Juyn the yere of o r . lord 
 " god m' v* Lij on whofe foule Jhu* have mercy 
 ** amen/' 
 
 It is to be obferved, that although mention 
 is here made of a lord of the manor of Sthiain- 
 ton, a lapfe of many years has devolved that ho- 
 nour on the freeholders, who have a right to 
 appoint a game-keeper, and to do all other acts, 
 which a lord of the manor would and ought to 
 execute. Perhaps there are few inftances in which 
 the feudal tenure has been fo completely broken 
 through, in any other place in the kingdom. 
 
 On the fouth fide of the chancel is a table 
 monument of black marble, with two fine bufts ; 
 
 that 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 39! 
 
 that of the lady fubfcribed " Praivi ;" that of her 
 hufband, " Sejuar." 
 
 " Ch' iddio Vuole, in Vuolo" 
 " In Memoriam perpetuam incomparabilh op* 
 " time mcerentis et pracharijji?na Uxoris fua et 
 " Liber or um fuorum indulgcntijfima Matris cum 
 " ingcnti amore et admiratiohe Virtuium ejus^ hoc 
 M monumeritum pie pofidt lugens 
 
 iQ Maritus mceftijjimus" 
 
 " MEMORISE JUST^E ^TERN^, 
 " HIC JUXTASiTA EST SUSANNA DOMINA DOR- 
 " MER FiL: A ET COHERES RICHARDI BROWNE 
 " DE ALSCOTT IN COMITATU GLOCESTRENSr 
 " EQJJ1TIS AURATI, ET CONJUX DILECTISSIMA 
 * C JOHANNIS DORMER DE LEE GRANGE IN HAC 
 Cc PAROCHA DE QUA'NTON EQUiTIS AURATI ET 
 rt BARONETTI (fILII NATU MAXIMI JOHANNIS 
 
 AGRO VIGORN ENSI ARMIGERl) QUI SUI ETI- 
 
 AM 1PSIUS C NERES HIC REFONENDOS CU- 
 
 RAV1T, QUI UNANIMO CONVlXERANT, UNO 
 
 TUMULO RECUMBANT, PROLEM HABUFRA'NT, 
 
 DUOS F1LIOS ET DUAS FILIAS, VIDELICET JO- 
 
 FIANNEM ET SUSANNAM, GULIELMUM ET 
 
 " CATHARINAM, IN QUIBUS RELIQU1T ILLA 
 
 " TANTUM SUPERSTITES GULIELMUM ET SU- 
 
 C C 4 " SAN NAM, 
 
39^ A JOURNEY 
 
 " SANNAM, QUINTO DIE POST CATHARINE 
 cc PAR.TUM (AD INFANDUM MARlTI SUI DOLO- 
 w REM) HEU ! ANIMAM EXPIRABIT AB OMNI- 
 " BUS DILECTA ET DEPLORATA QVJE DUM VIXIT 
 " PIETATE IN DEUM, OBSEQUIO IN PARENTES, 
 " AMORE IN MARITUM, INDULGENTIA IN LIBE- 
 " ROS, HUMILITATE GRATIOSA MORUMQUE 
 " SUAVITATE ET CHARITATE IN OMNES SIN- 
 " GULARI ALIISQUE LAUDANDIS VIRTUTIBUS 
 " EXCELLUIT SUPER OMNIA IN EXTREMIS 
 " CERTA SFE ET FIDUCIA REGNI COELESTIS MI- 
 " RAQUE CHRISTIANA CONSTANTlA ET ALA- 
 " CRITATE PR^DITA SPIRITUM ULTIMUM IN 
 " MANUS DEI UT CK.EATORIS ET REDEMPTORIS 
 *< SUI FIDELISSIMI, CUM ARDENTISSIMIS VOTIS 
 <c £T preCIBUS, REDDIDIT APUD RICHMONDIf 
 " AM IN COMITATU SURRIiE, VIGESIMO QUARTO 
 ** DIE FEBRUARIIj CUJUS CORPUS FOELICIS ANJ- 
 * c MJB CFIARISS1MUM PIGNUS, IN DIEM RESUR- 
 * c RECTIONIS HIC REPOSITUM EST, DECIMO TER- 
 " TIO DIE MARTII PROXIMA SEQUENTI, ANNO 
 " DOMINI SALVATORIS MILLESIMO SEXCENTE- 
 < 5 SIMO SEPTUAGESIMO QUINTO, ET DULCISSJ- 
 iC MI C0NJUGAL1S CONSORTU UNDECIMO." 
 
 " Hie te [char a Sufanna) heat Jul marmore duro 
 
 " Confortis Thalami cur a dolor que tut ; 
 
 « Ut cum nojlra tuts ftccentur lumina damnis 
 
 " Contribuant guttas fax a vel ipfa fuas ; 
 <? Qulppe hie cqjla Fides, Pie/as, Concordia, Virtus 
 
 iC Omnia funt uno contumulata loco" 
 
 " PR.EIVIT 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 
 
 393 
 
 " PR^SIVIT CONJUX CHARISSIMA, SEQUITUR 
 MAR1TUS MOESTISSIMUS D NS . J HNNES DOR- 
 MER EQUES ETBARONETTUS, VI R PROBITATE 
 CLARUS CUNCTISQUE DILECTUS, NUNC COE- 
 UTIBUS ANNUMERATUS. OBIIT LIGQRN1M 
 IN ITALIA NOVEMB. J M0 ET HIC INFRA SE- 
 PULTUS EST FEB 11 . 23 7 " 10 . A. D. 1675. O'N 
 QlAEf 0EOS AnOONHSKEI NEOS. 
 w SOLUS CHRISTUS. SOLA SALUS." 
 
 The achievement is divided in two parts* 
 and beneath the impalements are the following 
 infcriptions : 
 
 
 u In patria mea 
 
 •"J 
 
 " Patris cceleilis 
 
 <-* 
 
 a 
 
 so 
 
 tC Gloriosa vivo. 
 
 o 
 
 • <-* 
 
 CD 
 *■* 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 « 
 
 me venire, ad te 
 
 " Cito cadet 
 " Caduca vita 
 
 <L> 
 
 & 
 
 mea Spes et 
 On a black marble flab, near the monument, 
 
 " IN THIS VAULT 
 16 IS INTERRED THE BODY OF THE VIRTUOUS 
 <c AND RELIGIOUS SUSANNA LADY DORMER, 
 * c WHO MOST PIOUSLY LEFT THIS TRANSITORY 
 
 " LIFE 
 
a 
 
 ■a 
 
 394 A JOURNEY 
 
 c& LIFE THE 24 th DAY OF FEBRUARY ANNO DO- 
 MINI 1673/' 
 
 *< Here way'ld by weeping marble and our eyes 
 
 tc The deareft wife of Sir John, Dormer lies, 
 
 *' Belov'd of all, but love cannot retrive 
 
 " Dead friends, 't has pow'r to kill, not make alive." 
 
 " Here alfo lyeth interred the Body of Sir 
 John t)ormer of Lee Grange in the County of 
 " Bucks, Kn\ and Bar 1 , who died at Leghorn 
 <c in Italy Nov\ the 7 th , and was buryed Feb>\ 
 
 « 23 d 1675." 
 
 " Hie jacet 
 " Corpus Gulielmi Dormer Baronetti 
 
 " qui obiit ccelebs fine prole 
 <c nono die Martii Anno Dom. 1725, 
 " sstatis fua? $?." 
 On another marble, 
 
 " HERE LYETH THE BODY OF JOHN DORMER 
 cc THE SON OF SIR JOHN DORMER OF LEE 
 " GRANGE KNIGHT AND BARONET BY DAME 
 " SUSANNA HIS WIFE ONE OF THE DAUGHTERS 
 " AND COHEIRES OF SIR RICHARD BRAWNE OF 
 " ALSCOT IN THE COUNTY OF GLOCESTER 
 " KNIGHT. HE DEPARTED THIS MORTALL 
 " LIFE THE FIFTH DAY OF JANUARY IN THE 
 " YEARE OF LORD l666 BEING AGED SEVEN 
 " MONTHS." 
 
 On a brafs, in the middle of the chancel, be- 
 low a female figure, 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 395 
 
 " mm De faime tit mtp*" 
 
 I conjecture this monumental record to be ve- 
 ry ancient : the ufe of the French language in 
 epitaphs and inferiptions is rare ; and it is fcarce- 
 ly to be fuppofed, that this could have found its 
 way hither fince the time when that language was 
 generally fpoken in England, which was for about 
 three centuries immediately after the conqueft. 
 
 The ancient church at Arundel, in Sujpx 9 pre- 
 fents one inftance of a French epitaph, in the 
 fame fryle : and there is another at Cockcjlcld, near 
 Alcefter (where Ifabell, the foundrefs, is buried) 
 with the date 1260. There is a third in Ban* 
 bury church, Effete, as late as the year 1+14: 
 and thefe are all of which I happen to have any 
 knowledge. 
 
 Contiguous to the north fide of the chancel Is 
 a fmall chapel, the maufoleum of the Winwoods. 
 
 Here, on a tomb, elevated feven or eight ftQt 
 above the pavement, and encloied with gilt 
 rails, lye the figures of a man in armour, with a 
 full-bottomed perriwig ; and his lady, in the drefs 
 of the times in which me lived, mod exquifitcly 
 cut in white marble. 
 
 The coat of mail is remarkably well done. 
 
 Near the monument is placed an iron helmet, 
 
 1 and 
 
3g6 A JOURNEY 
 
 and a filken banner, the remnant of that ancient 
 cuftom, which the religion of our forefathers fug- 
 gefted to them as conducive to the attainment of 
 a bleffed immortality. 
 
 The infcription does not mention in what wars 
 Mr. Winwood ferved, but it is probable, in the 
 unfortunate conteft between Charles the firfl:, 
 and his fubjecls. 
 
 " Here 
 
 " lyeth the Body 
 
 " of Richard Winwood, Efq. (one 
 
 " of the Deputy Lieutenants of this 
 
 " County in the reign of King 
 
 " Charles the fecond) Son and Heir of 
 
 «« the R*. Hon b,c . S f . Ralph Winwood, Ku 4 . 
 
 " principal Secretary of State to King 
 
 " Charles the firft. He married Anne 
 
 <c one of the Daughters of 5 r Thomas 
 
 C€ Read of the county of Barks Kn\ 
 
 " and departed this life y e 2o lh 
 
 " day of June Anno Dom 1 . 1688 
 
 " in the 80 th year of his age. 
 
 " Here lyes alfo interred the body 
 
 u of the faid Anne, who departed this life 
 
 li the I st day of May Anno Dom. 1691. 
 
 " This monument was erected at the charge 
 u of the above faid Mrs. Winwood, in memory 
 u of her dear Hufband A. D. 1689, 
 
 " Here 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 397 
 
 " Here alfo lyes interred in y s vault three 
 €i neices of y s above mentioned M rS . Winwood, 
 ic viz. Elizabeth^ Sufanna, and Martha Rachael, 
 <c Daughters of Sir Gilbert Cornwall Kn r . and 
 u Baron of Burford in Com. Salop.' 9 
 
 Againft a pillar, near the pulpit, on an oval 
 tablet, 
 
 « SACRED 
 
 " TO THE MEMORT 
 
 " OF 
 
 " THE REVd. "THOMAS BOURNE 
 
 - c WHO DIED NOV R . 4™. 1786, 
 
 a AGED $$ YEARS. 
 
 " ALSO OF 
 
 » EDWARD EELES BOURNE, 
 
 cc SON OF THE ABOVE 
 
 " THOMAS BOURNE, 
 
 " WHO DIED APRIL 15, 1788 
 
 <f AGED 13 YEARS." 
 
 On a brafs, in the floor of the chancel, 
 
 " SDf p r (fiarme prap for tge fotile of 
 
 " ricSarfc Bfoartrtip oca of tge fornteg of mcDa? 
 
 " Itoarfcbp tDfiieg Drccrietr tfie yfc Dap of 3uplt 
 
 c < t fie per of o r lovti m & v on tofiofe foule 3|if a 
 
 <c 
 
 gafce nf cp 
 
 >> 
 
 On the outfide of the wall of Winwood's cha- 
 pel, is a large blue (tone, with the following : 
 
 « la 
 
398 A JOURNEY 
 
 <c In fpe beatas refurre&ionis 
 
 " quiefcit 
 
 <c infra hunc Tumulum fua cura 
 
 " fibi fuisq; dum apud vivos fuit, extruclum 
 
 rt (inter charos, at heu ! brevis asvi liberos) 
 
 " Annam, Winwoodum, Georgium) 
 
 6f Benjamin Archer S. T. B. 
 
 u Hujus Ecclefise per quadraginta annos Rec"lor 
 
 " qualis fueris 
 
 " Hodieri Viciniam conf alat : 
 
 1C Priam omnibus indicabit fupremus Dies. 
 
 " Anna uxor fidelis, mceflu defuncti vidua 
 
 " nee non Filii quotquot funt fuperftites 
 
 " Benjamin, Gilbertus, Edvardus, Thomas 
 
 cc Patris optime de femeriti nunquam immemores 
 
 " nunquam fads memores futuri. 
 
 , " Pietatis et Officii ergo 
 
 " pofuerint 
 
 * e Obdomivit in Chrifto xx die Augufti 
 
 " Anno Salutis mdccxxxii 
 
 " JEiatis fuas lxxxi." 
 
 Not far from the fouth-eaft corner of the 
 
 chancel, 
 
 " Near this place 
 
 " are interred the remains of 
 
 " Mr. James Lip/comb, 
 
 " Surgeon ; 
 
 €6 who in the early part of his life 
 
 " ferved in the Royal Navy j 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 299 
 
 " was prefent in feveral memorable 
 
 cc Engagements 
 
 " by Sea, 
 
 <c and at the Sieges of 
 
 " Pondi 'cherry and Manilla 
 
 " in the Eqft Indies : 
 " always conducting hinifelf 
 " with honour and credit. 
 " In the practice of the 
 " Profeffion, 
 " which for near thirty years 
 " he followed 
 " in this Parifh, 
 6i his Integrity and Humanity 
 " were generally acknowledged : 
 " and he has left behind him 
 " the Character of 
 " an honefl man. 
 Cf He died December the 29th, 1794, aged 64/* 
 Near the eaft end of the chancel is a free 
 fchool, which deferves to be more liberally en- 
 dowed. 
 
 Contiguous to the church-yard is an Alms* 
 houfe, for the relief oi poor widows and widow- 
 ers; built and endorsed by Richard Winwood? 
 Efq. whofe monument has been defcribed. 
 The Parfonage Houfe is remarkably large and 
 
 elegant, with handfome gardens. 
 
 In 
 
4GO A JOURNEY 
 
 In the middle of the village, which confifts of 
 four flreets, which meet in a large opening, not 
 unaptly called a fquare, {lands an ancient crofs, 
 where a market was formerly held ; and a large 
 meadow, near the town, is celebrated for the 
 Races held there, in the infancy of that fport. 
 
 A curious traveller, who parted through this 
 part of the country a few years fmce, having ex- 
 prefTed his furprize at the elegance of the pa- 
 rim church, and its numerous monuments, took 
 the pains to confult feveral topographical hifto- 
 ries, in order to become acquainted with its an- 
 cient ftate ; but all the information he could pro- 
 cure, was contained in the following words : 
 Ci £>uainton 9 a noted place for horfe-racing ; and 
 <c the loft place that believed in witches. " 
 
 About half a mile from Quainton^ on the 
 north-eaft, is Denham, an old feat of the Win- 
 woods ^ the property of Lord Francis Godolphin 
 QJborn. The houfe is moated round, but has 
 been confiderably diminimed in fize within the 
 prefent century, feveral houfes in the village of 
 Quainton having been erected with the materials 
 brought from it. 
 
 There is a large park, enclofed with a high 
 wall ; and, on the fide of a hill, a grove of wal- 
 nut-trees, called Cane (or Carnoc) wood. 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 40 1 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Wotton Underwood. — Dorton Houfe. — Chilton. — The Church* 
 
 Intending to vifit fome of the numerous feats 
 which are fo profufely fcattered over this part of 
 the country, — we rode firfl to Wotton Underwood, 
 the paternal eftate of the Marquis of Bucking* 
 ham, who has a fine houfe and gardens here. 
 
 Wotton is fituated in what was formerly called 
 Bernwood Fore ft ; and the eftate here was be- 
 ftowed on Richard de Granville who came in 
 with the Conqueror, and has continued in the 
 the fame family ever fince that period. 
 
 The houfe, which is built in the fame ftyle 
 as the Queen's palace in St. James's Park, but 
 of a much larger fize, and with a noble flight of 
 fteps leading to the entrance, ftands at the ter- 
 mination of a fine treble avenue. 
 
 The apartments are fpacious and elegantly 
 finifhed. The ftair-cafe is painted with the affem- 
 bly of the gods, and the drawing room has fome 
 excellent carving in wood, by Gibbons. 
 
 D d A charm- 
 
402 A JOURNEY.- 
 
 A charming lake, whofe banks are covered 
 with rich fhrubberies and plantations, is feen 
 from the windows of the fouth-weft front ; and 
 the fylvan fcenery which borders the pleafure 
 grounds, furpaffes defcription. The family, how- 
 ever, has feldom refided here fmce the death of 
 the late Earl Temple, when the magnificent houfe 
 at Stowe came into its poffeffion. 
 
 The little church at Wotton is neither a re&ory 
 nor a vicarage, but enjoys the privileges of both, 
 under the title of a perpetual curacy,, fubjecl: to 
 the peculiar and exclufive jurisdiction of the 
 Archbifliop of Canterbury. 
 
 From Wotton, paffing a thick wood, and a flat 
 country, in which the roads are fometimes almofl 
 impaffable, we came to Dorton Houfe, the feat of 
 Sir John Aubrey, Baronet, which owes to his 
 tafte, and the liberal application of a large for- 
 tune, fome agreeable fcenes, which make it a 
 moil comfortable refidence. 
 
 The enclofures in front, confift of fome of 
 the richeft corn fields and pafturage imaginable j 
 and from the garden are agreeable views of wood, 
 water, and fertility. 
 
 The rooms are neither very large nor gaudy, 
 but they are all well fiaifhed 5 and hofpitality is 
 
 ftill 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 403 
 
 ftill cultivated at Dorton with as much attention 
 as was beftowed on it, by our anceftors. 
 
 In a gallery about a hundred and twenty feet 
 long, the windows of which command a fine 
 view of wood and water, we were fhewn a col- 
 lection of family portraits, (fome of them by 
 Sir Peter Lely and Vandyke?) and the drawing 
 room is hung with Indian paper. 
 
 Over the chimney of the breakfaft parlour is 
 a pi6ture of Thomas Aubrey •, Efquire, brother to 
 the prefent worthy baronet ; and in the library 
 a half length of Fiennes Trotman, Efq. formerly 
 an active magiftrate for this county. 
 
 Leaving Dorton Houfe, and winding up the 
 hill, we foon arrived at Chilton, another village 
 within the circle of Sir John Aubrey's great 
 eftates. Here is a large houfe, once inhabited 
 by the Crokes, and afterwards by the Carters, 
 from whom it defcended to the prefent Lady 
 Aubrey, 
 
 The church is very fmall, but fo full of mo- 
 numental records that it might juftly deferve the 
 motto of Leland) 
 
 " Recondit in antrls 
 " Multorumcineres. ,, 
 
 Dds On 
 
404 A JOURNEY 
 
 On braffes round the verge of a large brows 
 ftone, is the following infcription : 
 
 cc %tn IfetS bmitb 3oBn Ctofte tfie ealtier, 
 iC %nm$U onne of tge $i$ Clerfcpg of tfie 
 " ^ptigpg Cotute of tge Cgaunterp ant* af* 
 <6 tettoarW tfie (patfferg of tlje fail) Cfiamtce* 
 " rp* ^e Heparteb tfie ij trap of September, 
 <c in tge pere of our %mt)t muulito" 
 
 On a brafs at the head : 
 
 " gere fperat 
 " atmetio tlatjfn^ Crot&g in 8oc tfcmtfo " 
 
 On another at the feet : 
 
 cc ffim tfment SDomwtmt, Iperatterant ftt SDo* 
 
 <c milium, 
 6r atmitot* mftm er prorata? tovfim efi/' 
 
 Contiguous to the fouth fide of the chaneel is 
 a chapel, or oratory, of the Crokes. 
 
 The effigies of a warrior and his lady, repofing 
 under a magnificent arch, decorated with a pro_ 
 fufion of ornaments, and with the figures of 
 eleven children in a recefs under the frize> are 
 enclofed with gilt palifadoes- 
 
 The 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 405 
 
 The infcription is as follows : 
 
 joannes crocfs 
 "eques clarissimvs vna cum vxore 
 h Elizabeth a ex illustri vintonorum 
 " familia qvi pariter svaue jvgvm christi vna- 
 u nimi in uera pietate consensv svstvlervnt, 
 " vitam deo consecrarvnt, opera indigentibvs 
 « exhibvervnt, exemplvm posteris reliqvervnt 
 « in hoc monvmento conditi resvrrectionem 
 " jvstorvm expectant. 
 
 " Joannes abdomiuit in domino decimo 
 
 " DIE FEBRVARII ANNO DOMINI 1608 
 " ^TATIS SV^S 78. a 
 * ELIZABETHA OBDOMIUIT IN DOMINO UIGESIMO 
 « QVARTO DIE JFAUIANNO CHRISTI 1611 
 " JETATIS SVJE 73." 
 
 c * PREUIVS AD CHRISTVMj PROPERO MEA LUX 
 
 " MEA VITA, 
 " CORDA DATE CHRISTO METAM PROPEREMVS 
 
 " AD ISTAM, 
 u UERE IGITUR F^LIX ET VITA ET FVNERO CRO- 
 
 " CVS 
 « c EST BONA UITA, BONA MORS, BONA GRATA 
 
 « DEO." 
 
 On a brafs at the edge of a white flone, near 
 the monument : 
 
 Ddq " HERE 
 
406 A JOURNEY 
 
 " HERE LYETH BURIED SIR JOHN CrOKE, 
 « KNIGHT, AND LADY ELIZABETH, HIS WIFE, 
 * c DAUGHTER OF SIR ALEXANDER UnTON, KNT, 
 " WHO LYVED MARIED TOGETHER 55 YEARES, 
 " 9 MONETHES AND DAYES FOR WHOME THIS 
 " TOMBE IS MADE AT THE CHARGE AND DI. 
 " RECTION OF THE SAID LADY ELIZABETH:' 
 
 On another brafs : 
 
 cc hic jacet Joannes Crocus miles, et uni- 
 
 *< VS JVSTICIARIORVM DOMINI REGIS AD PLA- 
 " CITA CORA^M IPSO REGE TENENDVM ASS-IGNA- 
 " TA DVM VIXERIT, QVI OBIIT 23°. DIE JaNV- 
 " ARII ANNO DOMINI 1619 ^ETATIS SU^E 66. 
 
 " EPITAPHlV UENERABILIS 
 
 " UIRI JOANNIS CrOCVS 
 
 " ^QUES AURATVS ET 
 
 " VNIVS JVSTICIARIO- 
 
 " RVM DE BANCO RE- 
 
 u G!S AB IPbO DUM 
 
 " IN UIUIS ESSET 
 
 " CONSCRIPTV.** 
 
 6C DISSOLUA L^TUS CHRISTVM . ♦ . '. . ADIRE 
 " SALVATOR PROPERA CORPVS ET • . . . CAPE 
 
 " NON 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 40J 
 
 <c NON FVIT H.^C TRISTIS, MEA MORS SED JA- 
 
 " NVA VITJE 
 " NON LOCUS EST LACHRIMIS NON DOLOR VL- 
 
 " LVS 1BI 
 " UITA BEATORVM CVM SANCTIS VND1 QVE SVA- 
 
 " UIS 
 " NIL MAGIS HAC DULCE EST NAMQ^J SOPORE 
 
 " JACES 
 u CORPUS ADIT TERRAM PARIENTE QVOD PARI-* 
 
 " EBAT 
 " ASTRA TENENT ANIMAM, QUAM DEDIT ANTE 
 
 " DEVS 
 <C VSQJ DIEM QVO...NRA SALUS DQMINVSQ^; 
 
 " REDE~PTOR 
 " ALT! SONANTE TVEA SVRGERE NOS FACIAT 
 " ABSTERGENS OCULIS LACHIRMAS ET UINCVLA 
 
 c: SOLUES 
 " MORTIS VT ETERNA CORPORA LVOE MICENT 
 " H^C MEA SPES REQUIES, HJEC FIRMA FIDVCIA 
 
 " CORDIS 
 " UIUERE CVM CHRISTO, QUI MEA SOLA SALVS 3 
 cc LONDINI OBI IT, &C." 
 
 On another : 
 
 <c HERE LYETH ANNE CROKE WIFE OF ALEX- 
 6C ANDER CROKE ESO^ DAUGHTER AND HEIRESS 
 
 Dd 4 
 
 <€ 
 
 OF 
 
408 A JOURNEY 
 
 " OF RICHARD BRASEY OF THAME IN THE 
 
 " COUNTY OF OXON GENT. WHO DIED THE 22°, 
 
 C < OF MARCH A. D. l622, AND IN THE 22 15 . 
 
 " YEARE OF HER AGE." 
 
 " GOD'S LOVE AND FAVOUR IS NOT KNOWN AL- 
 
 " WAIES, 
 " BY EARTHLY COMFORTS OR BY LENGTH OF 
 
 " DAYES 
 " FOR OFTEN TYMES WE SEE WHOME HE LOVES. 
 
 " BEST 
 " HE SOONEST TAKES UNTO HIS PLACE OF REST. 
 " LONG LIFE ON EARTH, DOTH BUT PROLONG 
 
 " OUR PAINE 
 " IN HAPP1E DEATH THERE IS THE GREATEST 
 
 " GAIN*." 
 
 This feeros to have been a common epitaph; 
 about that period, for it again occurs in the 
 church of St. Nicholas at Colchefter. 
 
 On another brafs : 
 
 " AVE VIATOR 
 " STAY HERE THOU GENTLE PASSENGER 
 u AND VIEW THIS YOUNG MAN'S CHARACTER. 
 " HEREXYES THE BODYE OF A SONNE 
 " NEXT TO HIS SIRE, THAT TO GOD IS GONE 
 
 l S " THE 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 409 
 
 I* THE NEXT STEP FORWARD GRANDSIRE HOLDS, 
 *' AND GREAT GRANDSIRE THIRD PLACE EN- 
 
 " FOLDES 
 * c THEIR VIRTUES SPEAKE THEIR PRAYSES BEST 
 ^ AND HERE THEIR BODYES QUIET REST, 
 " VALE LECTOR." 
 
 (C 
 
 READER NOW PASSE, AND CREDIT THIS, 
 
 " WHO LIVETH WELL, SHALL GO TO BLISSE 
 
 * 6 AND WHO SO RUNNES A HOLY COURSE 
 
 " AS THESE HAVE DONE WHOME I REHEARSE 
 
 " WHEN AS HEE VIEWS THIS CHARACTER 
 
 ^ WILL WISH HIMSELF INHERITOR 
 
 " UNTO SUCH WORTHYES MEN THAT WERE 
 
 * c RENOWNED WHILST THEY LIVED HERE, 
 
 u HIC JACET EDWARDUS CROKE QUI OBIIT 
 * c QUARTO DIE FEBRUARII 1626." 
 
 Some difputes, have been entered into by dif- 
 ferent antiquaries refpecling the origin of fuch 
 expreflions as " fiHe viator," &c. which are of- 
 ten to be met with on ancient monuments ; and 
 Doctor Plott fuppofes that this mode of addrefs 
 has been derived from the Romans, who fome- 
 times threw up heaps of earth, or barrows, over 
 the remains of their deceafed generals near the 
 
 courfe 
 
' 4I€> A JOURNEY 
 
 courfe of the public military ways, to remind 
 pafTengers, fays he, very gravely, that " as thefe 
 " buried were fometime mortal men, fo they 
 ffi themfelves are no better now." 
 
 The following infcription is below the figure 
 of a lady kneeling, in a fmall monument againfi 
 the wall : 
 
 ".HERE LYETH ELIZABETH TYRELL LATE 
 
 " WIFE OF SIR JOHN TYRELL OF HERON KNT. 
 
 " AND DAUGHTER OF SIR JOHN CROKE OF CHIL- 
 
 " TON KNIGHT, WHO HAD ONE DAUGHTER 
 
 " NAMED DOROTHY, WHO DIED IN HER INFA&- 
 
 " CLE, AND THE SAID ELIZABETH DYED THE 
 
 " l6ni OF FEBRUARY, ANNO DOMINI i^I 
 
 " BEING THE 57TH YEAR OF HER AGE." 
 
 The following infcriptions copied from two 
 
 elegant white marble monuments, in the fouth 
 
 and north fides of the chancel of Grendm Tin- 
 
 derwood, having been omitted in their proper 
 
 place, are here introduced, becaufe they relate 
 
 to a defcendant of the above mentioned Sir JcJm 
 
 Tyrrell. 
 
 " Sacred 
 
 <c to the Memory of 
 « The R r Hon ble Cbriftobella 
 " Vifcountefs Say and Sek, 
 
 « Who 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 41 1 
 
 ~ <( Who departed this Life the 23rd of July 
 <4 1789, Aged 94 Years. 
 
 " She was Daughter of Sir Thomas Tyrrel 
 
 %t of Cajllethorpe in the County of Bucks, Baronet, 
 
 " was firft married to John Knap 
 
 i( of Cumner in the County of Berks, Efq. 
 
 " next to John Bigot of Dodderfiall in the County 
 
 « of Bucks, Efq. and laftly to the R f Hon ble Richard 
 
 " Vifcount Say and Sele, whom (he furvived. 
 
 " In her Youth the Beauty and elegance of her Perfon 
 
 " Were the Admiration of all who beheld her : 
 
 " For her Chearfulnefs and pleafant Manner, 
 
 <€ She was beloved by all her Friends and Neighbours. 
 
 " Her charitable Institutions are the ftrongeft 
 
 *' and mod confpicuous Proofs of her Munificence ; 
 
 " And her Juftice was fo correct 
 
 *< That when fhe paid the lad debt of Nature 
 
 M She had no other Debt to pay. 
 
 " This Monument, and that oppofitc 
 " To the Memory of her refpec"ted Lord 
 f( were erected in purfuance 
 " of her Ladyftiip's Will." 
 
 " In Memoriam 
 
 " Richardi Fiennes, 
 
 " Vice-Comitis Say et Sele, 
 
 M Qui exivit hac Vita Vicefimo Nono 
 
 " Die 
 
412 A JOURNEY 
 
 " Die JuB Anno Domini 1781 
 " JEt: 64. 
 
 ** Charam Sponfam Duxerat Chrijiobelhm 
 
 * c Filiam Thomce Tyrrel e Comitatu Bucks 
 
 €C Ordinis Baronetti Reliquam 'Johannis, 
 
 " Pigott de Dodder/hall in Comitatu 
 
 " Eodem Armigeri. 
 
 * c Pfalm 42. Quemadmodum Cervus 
 
 " Anhelat ad Fontes Aquarum 
 
 " Sic Anima mea : 
 
 " Candide Lector, 
 
 *« Vive Deo, Sic tibi Vives. 5 * 
 
 On a black marble in the floor : 
 «M S. 
 
 *< VIRTUTI C^LO FELICITER RECEPT^S 
 
 " JANJE 
 
 €i MOSIS TRYON DE HARRINGWORTH 
 
 * c IN AGRO NORTHAMPT : ARMIG t 
 
 " FILL® 
 
 « c JOANNIS CROKE DE CHILTON 
 
 €C IN AGRO BUCKINGHAM : ARMIG S 
 
 " UXORIS 
 
 cc QUAM 
 
 " PARENTIS PRIAM 
 
 " MARITUS 
 
cc 
 
 cc 
 cc 
 cc 
 
 INTO SOUTH WALES. 4.1 J 
 
 " MARITUS FIDELEM 
 " HABUERE 
 €C CONSANGUINEI CARAM 
 " OMNES AMABILEM 
 HANC 
 FAMILIES DECUS 
 CONJUGIS DELICIAS 
 AMICORUM DESIDERIUM 
 * c IN IPSO FLORE FOECUNDITAS 
 * 6 ABSTULIT IX MAII V TO 
 " A PUERPERIO DIE 
 
 " MBCXXXVJ 
 
 " FILIOLA UNICO TOT LACHRIMAM SOLATIQ 
 " SUBSTITE." 
 
 On another black marble, 
 "M.S. 
 
 " CINERES JOANNIS CROCUS DE CHILTONf 
 " EJUS NOMINIS QUARTI IN AGRO BUCKING- 
 " HAMI^E MILITIS AURATI HIC IN URNA SUNT 
 * ; REPOSITI QUI TUB^S NOVISSIM^ AD SPEM 
 " ANHELANT. 
 
 !NUMINIS DEVOTUS 
 LITERIS ERUDITUS 
 FIDE SPECTATUS 
 
 
 PROBITE INSiGNIS 
 
 cc IDEM 
 
414 A JOURNEY 
 
 " IDEM < 
 
 PARENTJBUS 5ACER 
 CONJCJG. MARITUS REDAMATUff 
 LIBERIS PATER OPTIMUS 
 1.AMICIS PRESIDIUM, 
 " QUI PATRIAE £T PRINCIPI NATUS ET LIBA- 
 " TUS H!NC PROPERE AT FELICITER FATO SUC- 
 <c CUBUIT OBIIT DECIMO DIE APRIL: ANNO DO- 
 <c MINI 1640 iETATIS SVM 54. 
 
 " RELICiTS TRIBUS FILIUS ET UNICA FILIA 
 <c QUOS SUSCEPIT EX RACHELE DULCI CONJUGE 
 €c FILIA ET HEREDE GULIELMI WEBB DE MOT- 
 " COMBE IN AGRO DORCESTRIiE- MILITIS AU- 
 w RATI. 
 
 On another, 
 
 " HERE LIETH THE BODY OF SARAH CROKE 
 " SECOND WIFE OF ALEXANDER CROKE OF 
 " STUDLEY IN THE COUNTY OF OXFORD 
 f ESQUIRE, AND DAUGHTER OF RICHARD BEKE 
 " OF HADDENHAM IN THE COUNTY OF BUCKS 
 " ESQUIRE. SHEE DIED IN THE 67™ YEAR OF 
 " HER AGE, AND IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 
 " 1667. ^ 
 
 cc HERE LYETH THE BODY OF ALEXANDER 
 ic CROKE, ESO^. SOMETIME OF CHILTON, AND 
 <c AFTERWARDS OF STUDLEY IN THE COUNTY 
 <c OF OXFOPJO, WHERE HE DIED IN THE 78™ 
 
 <f YEARE 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 415 
 
 * € YEARE OF HIS AGE, AND IN THE YEARE OF 
 
 " OUR LORD 1673, BEING SON OF WILLIAM 
 
 9< CROKfi ESOo AND GRANDSON OF SIR JOHN 
 
 cc CROKE, BOTH OF CHILTON. " 
 
 On another marble, 
 
 H 
 
 " WILLIAM CROKE ESQ^ 
 c< LATE OF CHILTON IN THE COUNTY OF BUCKS, 
 <f SON OF ALEXANDER CROKE ESQ^ BY HIS SE- 
 " COND WIFE, WHO DIED OCTOBER THE 6~ TS 
 u 1702, IN THE 77 th YEAR OF HIS AGE. HE 
 c * MARRIED SUSAN THE DAUGHTER OF EDWARD 
 a fetTIPLACE ESQUIRE OF SWIMBROOK IN THE 
 ci COUNTY OF OXON. BY WHOM HE HAD SIX SONS 
 " AND FIVE DAUGHTERS." 
 
 On another, 
 
 " HERE LYETH THE BODY OF 
 
 " SUSANNA CROKE, 
 
 <fi WIFE OF WILLIAM CROKE ESQ^ &C, &C. 
 
 TC SHE DIED THE I 7™ OF MAY IN THE 86™ YEAR 
 
 Ci OF HER AGE, AND IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORS 
 
 " 1712." 
 On another, 
 
 " HERE LIETH THE BODY OF SARAH CROKE 
 u ELDEST DAUGHTER OF WILLIAM CROKE ESQ. 
 4C OF CHILTON, WHO DIED APRIL 6 th J 726, IN 
 " THE 74 th YEAR OF HER AGE." 
 
 On 
 
41 6 A JOURNEY 
 
 On another, near the altar, 
 
 " HERE LYETH THE BODY OF ALEXANDER 
 (C CROKE RECTOR OF HARTWELL IN THE COUN- 
 « Ty 0F BUCKS, SECOND SON OF WILLIAM CROKE 
 <c ESQ_. OF CHILTON. HE MARRIED JANE THE 
 " THIRD DAUGHTER OF ANTONY EYANS 
 " ESQUIRE OF BAGSHOT IN THE COUNTY OF 
 " OXFORD, BY WHOM HE HAD ISSUE TWO SONS 
 " AND THREE DAUGHTERS. HE DIED NOVEM- 
 " BER THE XXVII, 1726, IN THE 69™ YEAR 
 <c OF HIS AGE." 
 
 On another, 
 
 " Here refteth the body of Sarah, the eldefl 
 
 cc Daughter of Alexander Croke Clerk, late Reo 
 
 " tor of Hartwell in this County. Shee died 
 
 < c September 25 th 1728, in the 25 th year of her age. 
 
 " Mater mcerens pofuit." 
 
 On a fmall brown ftone, placed in an obfcure 
 corner of the chapel, 
 
 " Here 
 
 €c lyeth the body of 
 
 « Sir Dodfworth Croke 
 
 " Knight and Baronet 
 
 6C who died January the 
 
 " 16 th , 1728 
 
 " aged 84 years." 
 
 It 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 417 
 
 It is related of this unfortunate gentleman, 
 that he was reduced to fuch neceflitous circum- 
 ftances, as to have been fupported in his old 
 age, by the parifh in which he is buried ; and 
 where his anceftors had made fo great a figure. 
 
 The relation of a very curious and affe&ing 
 trial, in which this perfon, with his father, Sir 
 John Croke, one Larimer, and others, were con- 
 cerned, has been publifhed, and is ftili extant. 
 It was written by a clergyman, of the name of 
 Hawkins, to inform poflerity of the cruel injuf- 
 tice which he fuftained from thefe confpirators, 
 having fuborned witneiTes to prove him guilty of 
 felony, for which he was tried at Aylejbury, on 
 the 10th day of March, 166 8, before the immor- 
 tal Sir Matthew Hale, Lord Chief Baron of his 
 Majefty's Court of Exchequer, and Hugh Wind* 
 ham, Serjeant at Law, when this fhocking in- 
 (lance of turpitude was brought to light ; Mr. 
 Hawkins acquitted, and Sir John Croke ftruck 
 out of the Commiffion of the Peace. 
 
 The annals of the world have fcarcely pro- 
 duced a more unprovoked, or more rancorous 
 combination of wicked men, to injure an honed 
 and blamelefs individual ; for honeft and blame- 
 E e lef* 
 
4lS A JOURNEY 
 
 lefs appears to have been the conduct of this 
 worthy clergyman : but the inconveniences and 
 dangers to which we are expofed in the great 
 journey of life, do not altogether depend on 
 our own conduct. 
 
 There are evils which no human forefight can 
 avert, and from which human wifdom is infuffi- 
 cient to protect us* The poffeilion of fplen- 
 did talents marks a man as the butt for envy ; 
 and Virtue itfelfj with all the train of liberal and 
 generous fentiments which attend it, excites the 
 malevolence of the bafe and the fordid. The 
 opennefs of candour does but too often expofe a 
 man to the fting of ingratitude ; and the fpon- 
 taneous gifts of Nature, like the perfume of the 
 violet, but tempt the ruffian hand of malignity : 
 they expand their bloom, only to attract the 
 deflroyer ; and it has been well obferved by a 
 celebrated writer, that " whoever happens to 
 6i unite in his character thofe qualities which are 
 c< apt to excite envy, will neceffarily have many 
 €i enemies. A man of wit is detefted by the 
 cc dull and the ignorant ; and a graceful and 
 Ci impreffive elocution, and talents for managing 
 44 public affairs, naturally make a man envied by 
 
 " all 
 
ifcTO SOUTH WALES, 419 
 
 " all who afpire to be the leaders of patties, or 
 5< the heads of faction, or pre-eminent above the 
 " reft of the world." 
 
 At the weft end of the church is a large and 
 elegant monument of variegated marble, divided 
 into three compartments, by pillars of the Com- 
 pofite order. 
 
 u Under this Monument 
 
 " interred in the Vault 
 
 c * lye the remains of 
 
 « RICHARD CARTER* Esq^ 
 
 " Patron of the Church, 
 
 * c and Lord of the Manor of Chilton % 
 
 " Native of the City of Oxford 
 
 " and early in his youth 
 cc a member of Baliol College 
 
 <c in that Univerfity ; 
 
 * 6 from whence he removed to 
 
 " the Inner Temple London. 
 
 cc In the reign of Queen Anne 
 
 f * he was put into the commiffion 
 
 <c of the Peace 
 
 " for the County of Oxford. 
 
 " In the year 17 15 under 
 
 <c the appointment of Francis 
 
 " Earl of Godolphin 
 
 « Lord Lieutenant and Cuftos Rotulorunx 
 
 E e 2 « he 
 
4^0 A JOURNEY 
 
 " he was made 
 
 cc a Deputy Lieutenant 
 
 cc of that County. 
 
 -" In 1719-20 he was appointed 
 
 u Junior Judge for the Counties of 
 
 <c Anglefea> Carnarvon, and Merioneth 
 
 " in North Wales : 
 
 u and the year following 
 
 a was advanced to the dignity of 
 
 " Chief Juftice of the grand feffions 
 
 " for the Counties of 
 €€ Glamorgan, Brecon, and Radnor 
 
 " in South Wales : 
 
 u in which he continued to the time 
 
 " of his death ; 
 
 u maintaining always the true character 
 
 « of 
 
 « c a juft Magiftrate 
 
 " and 
 " an upright Judge. 
 
 I s He departed this life the &* of 
 
 ** January A. D. 1755 
 
 f Aged 83." 
 
 <c In the Vault 
 
 " underneath 
 
 " lie the remains of 
 
 « GEORCM 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 42 1 
 
 " GEORGE RICHARD CARTER, Esq. 
 
 f c eldeft Son of richard carter, esq. 
 
 " He died January 25 th 1771 
 
 " in the 52* year of his age : 
 
 <c leaving out of fix children 
 
 " by julia his Wife 
 
 cc only two furviving Daughters 
 
 « MARTHA CATHARINE 
 
 " and 
 
 « ^IW FRANCES. 
 
 " A found underflanding, a benevolent dif- 
 cc pofition, and a peculiar good humour, ren- 
 <c dered his character as truly amiable, as his 
 " integrity did refpe&able." 
 
 €C INTERRED IN THE VAULT 
 
 " BENEATH 
 
 c< LIE THE REMAINS OF 
 
 « JULIA 
 
 " THE WIFE OF 
 
 « GEORGE RICHARD CARTER, Esq_. 
 
 cc TOGETHER WITH FOUR CHILDREN. 
 
 " SHE DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 
 
 u 4™ OF DECEMB R . I768 IN THE 44 th 
 
 " YEAR OF HER AGE. 
 
 E e 3 « She 
 
422 A JOURNEY 
 
 * l She was a chearful and fincere Friend, a 
 ** charitable benefaclrefs to the poor, an affec^ 
 < c tionate wife, and a tender mother*" 
 
 At the eaft end of the church is a flight of 
 fteps leading to a ftone pulpit in the wall, now 
 
 difufed. i 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 423 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 Long Crendon.—Nutleigh Abbey, — Eythrop. —Aylejbury, 
 
 One mile diflant from Chilton is Long Crendon, 
 a very populous village, in which more than a 
 thoufand perfons are faid to be employed in the 
 manufactory of needles. The buildings are, how- 
 ever, extremely irregular, and the ftreets re- 
 markably dirty. 
 
 The church is large and lofty, with a tower 
 in the middle, containing a ring of eight mufi- 
 cal bells. At the north end of the tranfept is a 
 beautiful window, with a rofe, in ftone work. 
 
 No account has been preferved of the founda- 
 tion of this edifice ; but from its appearance, and 
 flyle of architecture, I conjecture that it was 
 erected in the early Norman reigns, and probably 
 by fome of the family of Bolebee, who inhabited 
 a caftle in this vicinity, now totally deflroyed. 
 One of the fame name, Hugh de Bolebec^ was the 
 founder of a caftle at White fturchy in this coun- 
 ty 5 and a great benefactor to the Abbey of Nut* 
 E e 4 high 
 
424 A JOURNEY 
 
 high, whofe ruins are at no great diftance from 
 Crendon. 
 
 This religious houfe was founded in the reign 
 of Henry the fecond, for regular canons, of the 
 order of St, Auguftine ; but, like fimilar build- 
 ings, has yielded to the mouldering hand of 
 time ; and now exhibits a melancholy heap of 
 rubbifh and defolation. ** 
 
 .4 
 
 A few broken arches are left {landing in a 
 meadow, and part of the old walls have been in- 
 corporated with thofe-of a farm-houfe : — thefe, 
 with the ufual legend of fubterraneous paffages, 
 never explored, the haunts of fuperftition, are 
 all the traces of Nutleigh Abbey. This retire- 
 ment is beautifully fequeftered $ fo that it might 
 have been juftly faid, 
 
 " Safe from pangs the worldling knows* 
 *' Here, fecure in calm repofe, 
 ** Far from life's perplexing maze, 
 *' The pious Fathers pafs their days." 
 
 The filver bell, which ufed to tinkle in the 
 ears of the religious, and was wont to fummon 
 the drowfy monk from his flumbers to devotion, 
 is exchanged for the bleating of the flocks, or 
 the lowing of the oxen; and the fpontaneous 
 adoration of the young ravens, from their " airy 
 
 city 
 
 « „:♦„ » 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 425 
 
 * city," has fucceeded to the pomp of prayer, 
 and the oftentatious difplay of monadic piety. 
 
 The church of Crendon contains fome ancient 
 monumental infcriptions ; but only one of much 
 confequence. 
 
 It is on a large alabafter monument, very gau- 
 dily painted, enclofed with gilt rails, and kept 
 with great neatnefs and care ; there having been 
 an eftate of about twenty pounds per annum left 
 for the reparation of it. 
 
 The infcription is in gold capitals, on a highly- 
 polifhed tablet of black marble, beneath a re- 
 cefs ; in which, under a glittering arch, are the 
 cumbent figures of a knight and his lady, re- 
 pofing on fatin cufhions : and on either fide, a 
 little boy, one holding an hour-glafs, the other 
 blowing bubbles. 
 
 * c HERE LYETH BURIED SIR JOHN DORMER OF 
 c< DORTON KNIGHT, ONE OF THE LORDES OF 
 fC THIS MANOR OF CRENDON, AND DAME JANE 
 cc HIS WIFE ONE OF THE DAUGHTERS OF JHON 
 << GYFFARD OF CHILLINGTON IN THE COUNTY 
 ,c OF STAFFORD ESQUIRE, WHICH SIR JHON HAD 
 " YSSUE BY THE SAID JANE, FOWER SONNES RO- 
 " ££RT, JHON ? GYFFARD AND WILLIAM, AND 
 *' TWO DAUGHTERS ELIZABETH AND DOROTHYE 
 fc (BESIDES THREE SONNES AND FOWER DAUGH- 
 8 - Cl TERS 
 
426 A JOURNEY 
 
 u TERS WHICH DYED IN THEYR INFANCYE) 
 u ELIZABETH MARRIED JHON DYNHAM OF B0R- 
 < c STAL ESQUIRE. THE SAID JANE DYED THE 9 
 u DAYE OF SEPTEMBER 1605, AND THE SAID 
 * c SIR JHON THE" 
 
 The monument appears to have been ere&ed 
 in the life-time of Sir John Dormer / but it is 
 rather furprifing, that the blank at the end has 
 not been rilled up ; as the parilh regifter informs 
 vs, that he was buried here on the nth of 
 $$arch 1626. 
 
 From Long Crendon we proceeded towards-^y/^ 
 hurji firft pafling Winchmdon^ the dilapidated feat 
 of the Duke of Warton. The long avenues of lime 
 trees, which re£tilinearly interfecl the paftures, ' 
 and a terrace walk, are almofl the only marks of 
 its former grandeur. The eflate is now in the 
 - poffemon of his Grace of Marlborough. 
 
 'turned to the right, and paifed an artificial 
 ruin, backed by a plantation of firs, which 
 brought us within view of Eythrop* the feat of 
 the Earl of Chefterfeld, (landing at the boU 
 torn of a valley, enclofed by gentle eminences, 
 covered with clumps of trees. 
 
 A large piece of water occupies the flat, clofe 
 to the houfe ; and, in wet feafons, is apt to in- 
 undate the lower parts of the building. 
 
 • Tht 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES, 427 
 
 The architecture of the houfe is neither 
 ftriking, nor does it pleafe the eye : it is large, 
 cumbrous, and low, with an appendage of of* 
 fices exceflively oppreffive and difagreeable. 
 
 This was the refidence of the late Sir William 
 Stanhope, K. B, from whom might have bQen ex^ 
 pe&ed fome traces of his acknowledged tafte, at 
 Eythrop. 
 
 At the entrance of the houfe is a large armoury; 
 but the rooms are, in general, gloomy and dif- 
 nial : nor is the fcenery or arrangement of the 
 gardens at all fuperior. 
 
 Riding up the hill towards the fouth, we foon 
 arrived at a whimfical turret, which was erecled 
 as a profpecl houfe, by Sir John Yanhattem, Knt, 
 the proprietor of Dint on Hall, an old houfe, about 
 half a mile diftant from it. 
 
 The public is indebted to Sir John Vanhattem 
 for an illuftration of the ancient hiftory of BritiJJi 
 Barrows, in the " Nenia Britannica" to which he 
 contributed many correct obfervations on fever ai 
 fepulchral tumuli, which were opened in this 
 neighbourhood, under his direftion. 
 
 Some relics are preferved in the manfion houfe, 
 but the time would not permit us to gratify our 
 curiofity, by yifiting this collection. 
 
 The 
 
4^8 A JOURNEY 
 
 The roads in this part of Buckingham/hire are 
 fo very deep, and the foil is fo ftiff a clay, that 
 travellers are feldom found with fufficient perfe- 
 verance to accomplifh the ride juft defcribed. 
 
 Leaving Hariwell Houfe, the feat of Sir Wil- 
 liam Lee, Bart, its rich plantations, and beauti- 
 ful church on the left, we arrived at Aylejbury, 
 which, though not nominally, is really the coun- 
 ty town. Here the Lent Aflizes, the Elections, 
 and other public meetings are held ; and there is 
 fomething like the fhadow of a corporation, but 
 the names of Mayor, Aldermen, &c. are not af- 
 fumed. 
 
 The town is populous, but very indifferently 
 built -, and the market houfe, which (lands in a 
 large fquare, is an irregular and mean edifice. 
 
 The County Hall is a brick building, with an 
 extenfive front, guarded by pallifadoes ; and the 
 courts for the administration of juftice, and the 
 tranfadion of public bufmefs, are handfome and 
 commodious. 
 
 In old time, the town enjoyed fome .privileges, 
 on condition of fupplying the King with herbs 
 for his chamber, ftraw for his bed, and green 
 geefe in fummer, or eels in winter, for his Ma- 
 jeily's fuftenance: and this as often as three 
 
 times 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 429 
 
 times every year, if the King mould chance to 
 come thither. 
 
 I do not believe that there are more geefe at 
 Aylejbury, than in many other towns j but the 
 number of ducks and fowls reared here* and 
 in the neighbourhood, is aftonifhing. 
 
 Aylejbury is of Saxon original, and the church 
 bears evident marks of very high antiquity. Its ex- 
 ternal appearance is difgraced by a fhort leaden 
 fpire, under whofe weight the building feems to 
 be almofl crufhed : but the church- yard is agree- 
 ably planted with lime trees. 
 
 There are two fchools, one for Latin, the 
 other for Engli/h, eftablifhed here on charitable 
 foundations : both of them open into the church- 
 yard, and the former is contiguous to the fouth 
 fide of the chancel. 
 
 It was once kept by the learned Mr. Pugb, 
 to whom fucceeded a mod worthy and amiable 
 teacher, the Rev. William Stockins, of whom I 
 delight to fay in the words of an elegant orator, 
 " Magiftrum ali quando meum, quern adeo ut 
 
 parentem fum veneratus 5 cui quidem plus uni 
 w quam ceteris omnibus me debere, ni profiterer 
 " palam effem ingratiflimus." 
 
 The 
 
 <c 
 
430 A J0URNE1? 
 
 The church is fpacious, but gloomy, and the 
 organ is both too large and too loud for the 
 building. 
 
 The Packington family fhares in the honours of 
 the manor of Aylejbury, and there is a very much 
 elevated and diftinguiflied gallery, nearly oppo- 
 fite the pulpitj for their ufe, whicl\has not unaptly 
 been called a bird-cage: but the irregula- 
 rity of the pews and galleries in general, is a 
 great difgrace to the church* 
 
 An antique fiatue, dug out of the foundations 
 of a religious houfe, called " the Friary," near 
 the town, is now lying in the north end of the 
 tranfept. It is, perhaps, the figure of a Norman 
 knight ; but much of the armour is worn quite 
 fmooth : and fome have fuppofed it to be of flill 
 higher antiquity. 
 
 Near the communion table are fmall tablets in 
 memory of Sir Francis Barnard, Bart, and his 
 lady, who refided near the church, at a houfe 
 fmce occupied by the late celebrated John 
 Wilkes, Efq. 
 
 Near the principal entrance, which is at the 
 end of the fouth tranfept, is a neat monument in; 
 remembrance of Hugh Barker Bell, Efq. and Ann? 
 
 his 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 43 t 
 
 his wife, whofe defcendant the writer of thefe 
 pages is forry to have feen wandering about this 
 place; in a melancholy (late of mental derangement. 
 There are fever al monumental records of the Dag- 
 nails, a reputable family, which long flourifhed 
 here, but is now extinct. In the north tranfept, on 
 an old painted monument, with the date 1584, 
 are the following lines : 
 
 ** If pafiing by this place, thou doe defire 
 ** To know what corpfe here fhry d in marble lie ; 
 " The fome of that which now thou doll require 
 " This fcleder verfe mall fone to the defcrie. 
 '* Entombed here doth reft a worthie dame 
 *' Extract and born of noble houfe and bloud 
 " Her fire Lord Paget hight of worthie fame 
 c< Whofe virtues cannot finke in Lethe flood. 
 " Two bretheren had me, bard's of this realme 
 " A Knight her feere, Sir Harry Lee he hight 
 " To whom me bare three impes which had to name 
 '* John, Henry, Mary, flayn by fortune's fpight 
 «« Fir ft two heig yong which caus'd their parents moc 
 " The third in jflowei a"d prime of all her years 
 f All three do reft within this marble ftone 
 e< By which the fickl'efs of worldly joyes appears. 
 46 Good friend, flick not to ftrew with crimfon flowers 
 44 This marble ftone wherein her cinders reft 
 *« For fure her ghoft lives with the heavly powers 
 ." And guerdon hathe of virtuous life pofFeft." 
 
 Againft the wall of the church- yard is a ftone, 
 
 in memory of a gardener to the claffical Mr. 
 
 Wilkes, with this line from Virgil; 
 
 « Ilium 
 
43^ A JOURNEY 
 
 " Ilium etiam lauri j ilium etiam flevere myricae.^ 
 
 The fite of the ancient caftle is now a garden, 
 belonging to the vicarage houfe ; but the know- 
 ledge of the time of its decay is loft, and even 
 the name of the flreet which leads to it, has long 
 been changed from Caftle flreet, to Cat flreet. 
 
 On the whole, Aykjbury is but a poor town j 
 and if its market were not well attended by the 
 opulent farmers and graziers of the neighbour- 
 hood, the little confequence which it has at pre- 
 fent, would foon be totally loft. 
 
 The fine vale which reaches from the fkirts of 
 this town almofl to Bicefier 9 in Oxford/hire, 
 twenty miles weflward, derives its name from 
 hence, and is remarkable for containing, per- 
 haps, the richeft paflurage in England : which 
 Drayton has mentioned : 
 
 " Aykjhury *s a vale that walloweth in her wealth, 
 ,-" And (by her wholefome air continually in health) 
 4 * Is lufty, firm, and fat; and holds her youthful ftrength, 
 " Befides her fruitful earth. 
 
 . I . . . . te her foil throughout fo fure, 
 " For goodnefs of her glebe, and for her pafture pure; 
 " That as her grain and grafs, fo me her iheep doth breed, 
 << For burden, and for bone, all others that exceed." 
 
 In 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 433 
 
 In this valley, about four miles from Aylef* 
 bury, is a folitary place of worfhip, called £>ua- 
 rendon Chapel, fituated in a flat meadow, which 
 is frequently overflowed in rainy feafons, by the 
 neighbouring brooks. Here are fome old mo- 
 numents of the Leighsy Earls of Litchfield, to 
 which family it gives the title of vifcount. 
 
 F f 
 
434 ^ JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 JJon Clinton. -^Enter Hertford/hire*— Tring.— Peter the Wild 
 Boy — North Church.— Berkhamjlead.—The Cajile. 
 
 From Aylejbary we directed our courfe towards 
 Hertford/hire. 
 
 Patted the village of Afton Clinton, full of 
 neat villas ; crofted a canal, afcended a very fteep 
 hill, and enjoyed an expanfive retrofpecl of the 
 vale of Aylejbury, rich in corn, cattle, and paf- 
 turage, with feveral towns and villages at the 
 foot of that great range of hills called the Chit- 
 terns : which was formerly part of the forefi: 
 defer ibed by Leland, as extending from Portus 
 Limenus, in Kent, to the diftance of an hundred 
 and twenty miles weflward. 
 
 The lofty fpire of Leighton church, in Bedford*- 
 Jhire appears as if at no great diftance, and the 
 towns of Wing and Ivingho are feen in the fame 
 direction. Quaint on church, with the fine fcreen 
 of trees on Grange Hill behind it, clofe the prof- 
 peel on the north-weft, while the eye lofes itfelf 
 
 towards 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 435 
 
 towards the left, in the mild azure of the hori- 
 zon. 
 
 We foon perceived a remarkable difference in 
 the appearance of the country, as well as in the 
 ftate of the roads, for we had exchanged the 
 deep clay and miry tracks and verdure of Buck- 
 inghamjhire, for fine hard chalky roads, and 
 fields covered with loofe flints, and a fickly her- 
 bage. 
 
 Weak verdure is however not at all the cha- 
 radteriftic of Hertford/hire : — it is in general fer- 
 tile and productive, but the abundance of flint 
 ftones fcattered every where over the furface of 
 the land, and fpontaneoufly emerging from the 
 foil, makes us furprized that corn and grafs can 
 find room to grow. 
 
 General Lake has a large modern built brick 
 houfe, near Tring ; and beyond the town, 
 adorned with rich and luxuriant woods of beech 
 and oak, is Tring Park, an elegant feat of Drum* 
 mond Smith, Efq. 
 
 ** Here nature's charms the raviuVd eye invite, 
 
 " Here grandeur, ftrength> and elegance unite ; 
 
 «' Tafle guides the rule, while judgment marks the lines, 
 
 « And all the Mailer in the ftrudture mines." 
 
 F f 2 We 
 
43^ A JOURNEY 
 
 We defcended into the little market town of 
 Tring, through a ftreet juft wide enough to ad- 
 mit one carriage to pafs. The place is mean 
 and ill-built, but its church is large and ancient. 
 At the eaftern extremity of the town is an open- 
 ing, which prefents a view of the elegant man. 
 fion belonging to Tring Park, one of the hand- 
 fomefl houfes of its fize in England, and fur- 
 rounded by delightful groves of fpreading beech 
 trees, 
 
 I am very much inclined to doubt the accuracy 
 of Cafar's account of the produces of our coun- 
 try, at the time of its invafion by J:he Romans. 
 He denies to us even the beech tree, but its won- 
 derful beauty throughout the Chiltern country 
 affords fome ground for prefuming that it is here 
 in its native foil. This point it is, however, now 
 too late even to attempt to decide. 
 
 From Tring we had an agreeable ride on a 
 good road to North church, a. village contiguous 
 to Berkhamjiead, and like it full of genteel houfes # 
 
 In the church yard, the fpot is afcertained by 
 a fmall brown ftone, where lies buried " Peter 
 " the wild boy," a favage caught in the woods 
 of Germany (and prefented to King George the 
 fecond) who feemed to pofiefs more of the anU 
 
 malium 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 437 
 
 malhini rationale than can be attributed to the 
 brute. Hs became docile and conformed to the 
 will of his keepers with readinefs and punctuality; 
 but it does not appear that he was capable of ex- 
 erting that diftmguifhing charaQeridic called 
 judgment, and therefore the mere poiTeflion of 
 the faculties of memory and imagination fcarcely 
 entitled him to be claffed with the human fpecies. 
 If we contemplated this individual as fome- 
 thing above the brute creation, as the apparently 
 connecting link of that great chain which binds 
 all nature together in its folds, we fhall feel a 
 degree of wonder and admiration at the nice 
 gradations by which the different orders of beings 
 are advanced above one another in mental powers, 
 and corporeal excellence. If we look on him as 
 the lowed of the human race, we fhall fuperadd 
 to that reverential awe which the extraordinary 
 difplay of the providence of God naturally in- 
 fpires, — an humiliating fenfe of the imbecility of 
 mortals : it will teach us rightly to appreciate 
 thofe faculties of the mind by which the higher 
 orders of creatures are diftinguifhed ; and lead 
 us to a ufeful and prudent exercife of thofe qua- 
 lities and functions which are fparingly diftributed 
 among the fons of men. 
 
 Ff 3 If 
 
43 8 A JOURNEY 
 
 If the appearance of the maniac be of all dif- 
 treffing fcenes the mod humiliating, next to it 
 mufl be the fight of thofe endowed with very 
 flight powers of reafon and judgment. 
 
 Idiotifm furely can not be feen by the proudefl 
 among us without inward mortification at the 
 infignificance of the human character ; without 
 urging a comparifon between its weaknefs, and 
 the power which called it into life. 
 
 The one debafing it'felf to the earth, from 
 whence it was animated, futile, dependant, 
 wretched ; — the flower of a day, the fport of 
 fortune, the fpark of accident ! the other, great 
 without limits, good without meafure, omnipo- 
 tent, and eternal ! 
 
 Man, coming up like a flower ; and like a 
 flower cut down ! Man! whofe " years confume 
 u in vanity, and his days in trouble ! " Man • 
 who came naked out of his Creator's hand, and 
 is doomed to return to his kindred afhes ! 
 God ! whofe providence guards the immenfity 
 of his works, whofe wifdom made heaven and 
 earth ! Who, at his word called all nature into 
 exiPcence ; and who liveth for ever and ever ! 
 
 Berkhaniftead has the privilege of a weekly 
 market but it is fo much negle&ed that a^ ftran- 
 
 g er 
 
INTO SOTfTH WALES. 439 
 
 ger would be puzzled to know onwhat day it 
 is held. 
 
 The fhabby and decayed condition of the mar« 
 ket houfe, which is propped up by not a few 
 rough polls, is in unifon with the decreafe of 
 trade; but the town has in it many genteel houfes, 
 and the neighbourhood being pleafant, it is much 
 reforred to by perfons of fortune and fafhion, fo 
 that a lively air of gaiety prevails here. 
 
 Splendid afTemblies have been much encou- 
 raged at this place, which, if I miftake not, have 
 forhetimes been honoured with the prefence of 
 royal vifitors. 
 
 The church is a venerable pile, on the north 
 fide of the principal ftreet ; and contiguous to 
 it is a free grammar fchool for 144 boys, built, 
 and endowed with very ample revenues, by King 
 Edward the fixth. 
 
 In the church are feveral neat monuments ; 
 and near the pulpit lie two (lone figures of a man 
 and woman, faid to have been the founders, but 
 whofe names are not preferved. 
 
 The monument of the late John Dorien, Efq. 
 a banker in London, who fometimes refided at 
 Berkhampjlead, is a piece of elegant fculpture. 
 
 c Beneath 
 
440 A JOURNEY 
 
 Beneath the figure of Hope, refting on an 
 anchor, are the following words, " I fhall go to 
 ** him, but he fhall not return to me." 
 
 Northward of the town are the remains of a 
 caflle, which, together with the Honour, or 
 Royalty, are veiled in his Royal Highnefs the 
 Prince of Wales, who is Marquis of Berkhampjlead. 
 
 In this caftle died Richard, Earl o^ Cornwall, 
 King of the Romans, brother of King Henry the 
 thirds about the year 1272: as alfo, at a later 
 period, Cicely, Dutchefs of York, mother of 
 King Edward the fourth. 
 
 Thomas, fecond Lord Berkley, having joined 
 the Earl of Lancajler and his followers, in op- 
 pofition to the Spencers, was committed to 
 the tower of London, but made his efcape, 
 and was fent to Berkhaniftead caftle. The 
 Queen foon afterwards returning from France, 
 and the King {Edward the fecond) being made 
 prifoner* he was placed in the hands of the 
 fame Lord Berkley, but the latter being fuf- 
 fpected of favouring the caufe of the royal cap- 
 tive, or at leaft of being difpofed to treat him 
 with more lenity than the " fhe wolf of France' 9 
 de fired he mould experience* — the unfortunate 
 monarch was committed to the cuftody of John, 
 Lord Maltravers, and Sir Thomas Gournay, and, 
 
 in 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 44I 
 
 in a fnort time, mod cruelly murdered in Berkley 
 Caflle, Lord Berkley was afterwards indicted as 
 acceiTary to the murder, but honourably ac- 
 quitted. 
 
 From this place we took a delightful ride to 
 AJhridge, an old feat of the Duke of Bridgewater, 
 which is fituated in a nook of Buckinghamjhire, 
 almoft furrounded by the county of Herts, 
 
 The park is (locked with very beautiful deer : 
 there is alfo a breed of flags of a large ilze. 
 
 The neighbouring country is rich, fylvan, and 
 verdant ; and it is faid that a new houfe was in- 
 tended to have been erected here fome years 
 ago > but that the defign was laid afide, or per- 
 haps relinquifhed, in confequence,of the progrefs 
 of thofe immenfe works in which his grace has 
 been fo conflantly and laudable engaged, in 
 Lancqfbire: where the application of a. large for- 
 tune prudently directed, is perhaps productive 
 of more real and extenfive benefit to fociety, 
 than has ever been derived from the Tingle ex- 
 ertions of any other man in this country. 
 
 Returned to Berkhampftead, well pleafed with 
 our excurfion ; and the next day purfued our 
 journey towards the metropolis. 
 
442 A JOURNEY 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 Two Waters. — King's Langley. — Cajhiolerry . — Stanmcre*— 
 Watford* — Road to London. 
 
 Two miles from Berkhampftead, at the junction 
 of the rivers Bobourne and Gade (from thence 
 called Two Waters), are feveral paper mills, and 
 here the road turns off to the left for Kernel Hemp, 
 Jled, a neat market town not far diitant, the fpire 
 of whofe church appearing to fprout from among 
 the cherry orchards, which abound in this neigh- 
 bourhood, is a pleafing feature in the landfcape. 
 
 Paffed a little verdant common enlivened by a 
 gentle flream, called Boxmoor, near which is a 
 neat villa of Mr. Almon. 
 
 Farther on, is Langley Bury, the feat of Sir 
 Beaumont Hotham, Knt. &c. &c. a plain well built 
 manfion, furrounded by rich and venerable plan- 
 tations. 
 
 The village of King's Langley, now only re- 
 markable for its model!: neatnefs, and the chear- 
 ful pleafant fituation which it enjoys, was once 
 honoured with a regal feat, of which fome traces 
 were a few years fince vifible. 
 
 This 
 
INTO SOUTH WALES. 443 
 
 This building is afcribed to King John, who 
 is faid to have capricioufly deprived the ladies 
 here of their thirds^ at the deceafe of their 
 hufbands, in confequence of fome perfonal in- 
 dignity which they offered to his Majefty as he 
 rode through the town. 
 
 Prince Edmund, fon of King Edward the 
 third, was born at this place, on which occafion 
 a tournament was celebrated here. 
 
 It being Sunday when we vifited Langley, we 
 enjoyed the pleafure of hearing an incomparable 
 fermon from Mr. Jefferfon, the curate, a very 
 worthy clergyman, and an excellent claffic ; to 
 whom, if he had been ftill living, I would have 
 paid a deferved compliment. 
 
 Caj%ioberry, the feat of the Earl of EJfex, is 
 on the right of the road, and only feparated 
 from Grove, the refidence of the Earl of Claren- 
 don, by a narrow lane. 
 
 A very neat and comfortable houfe in a little 
 park nearly oppofite, was inhabited by Coun- 
 tefs Dowager of EJfex ; and indeed the whole 
 country is fprinkled with genteel villas and fpien* 
 did feats. 
 
 Not far from the borders of the park, which 
 belongs to the Marquis of Abercorn, there is an 
 extenhve opening towards the north, which in- 
 cludes 
 
444 A JOURNEY, &C* 
 
 eludes the town of St. Albans, and its beautiful 
 abbey church. 
 
 Watford is a neat market town, chiefly fup- 
 ported by travellers, but contains nothing very 
 interefting to the tourift, the philofopher, or 
 the antiquary : and from this place to the metro- 
 polis the ride would be truly difmal if the opu- 
 lence of the country, the excellence of the roads, 
 and the number of pafTengers, did not happily 
 concur to difiipate the melancholy gloom pro- 
 duced by gibbets of robbers who have been 
 executed ; and to allay the appreheniions almoft 
 naturally fuggefted by the high hedge-rows and 
 narrow lanes, of defperadoes and aiTaffins, who 
 brave a'fimilar fate. 
 
 Having thus conducted my reader to the me- 
 tropolis, from whence we commenced our ex- 
 curfion, he will permit me to apologize for the 
 deficiencies, the inconveniencies, and the neg- 
 le&s, which he has been compelled to encoun- 
 ter ; and to allure him, that feeling the neceffity 
 of his indulgent candour, I fupplicate it, with 
 the greater! earneflnefs and anxiety. 
 
 FINIS; 
 
 Printed by A. Strahan, 
 Printers Street.