■' y ■: "J V ' ' ■ ' ' " ' Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/mysteriesofbeeke01quin NJSWIjY written theoughout. MTSTEEIES BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED. COKTT^IISrilSrG- THE RESULT of thirty-five years' experience, and directions for using the mot- able comb and box-hive, together with the most approved methods of propagating the italian bee. M.'qUINBY, PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPER. NEW STEREOTYPED AND ILLUSTRATED EDITION. NEW-YORK : ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY. 1866. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by M. QU1MBY, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New-York. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS— 17 Description of jueen 17 Drones 19 Age of queen. , 13 "Workers 19 Age of worker 19 Age of drone 30 Preparations for swarming 30 Their nature should be understood.... 30 CHAPTER II. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.— 22 Imperfectly understood 22 When they begin te rear brood 22 How small colonies begin 23 Different in large families 23 Laying 24 When the eggs hatch 25 Rough treatment 25 Time before the young bee commences labor 26 Terms applied to young bees 27 Time from the egg to mature queen. . 27 Short cells usually taken for rearing queens 29 When the queen leaves to meet the drone 29 Number of eggs that a queen will lay. 30 When drones are reared 33 When queens are reared in swarming hives S3 When queens and drones are destroy- ed before swarming 34 Queen leaves with the first swarm.. .. 35 What becomes of the bees when no swarm issues , 35 When a young queen takes the place of the old one 35 When large numbers of drones are reared 35 Theory relative to drones 36 Mr. Wagner's Theory 39 Mr. Harbison's Theory 40 CHAPTER III. Satisfaction in having no patent 46 No difficulty in obtaining certificates and premiums ..., 47 Hives furnished for trial 48 Necessities of the bees 48 Great discovery for patentrvenders..„ 49 Principles of different hives 49 Chamber hive 49 Suspended hive 50 Inclined bottom board 50 Dividing hive 50 Changeable hive 1 51 Ventilating hive 54 Moth proof hive , 54 Non-S warmer 55 Common box hive 58 rv COjSTTENTS. Proper size of hive 58 Directions for making box hive 61 Top of hive not fastened 62 Best surplus boxes 63 Directions for making boxes 63 Guide comb 61 Some desirable things not found in box hive 65 Movable comb hive 66 Some of its advantages 67 Movable comb hive as used by the au- thor 68 Directions for making 63 Straw hive for wintering bees 73 Observatory hive 75 CHAPTER IV. BEE PASTURAGE.— 76 Substitute for pollen Substitute for honey Manner of packing pollen Flowers that yield first pollen First honey Fruit flowers important Ked raspberry a favorite Honey from red clover Catnip one of the best honey yielding plants Singular fatality attendant on. Silk- weed Bass-wood very important Honey-dew Unusual secretion Buckwheat 89 Do bees injure the grain?., 89 Bees necessary to insure a crop 90 Two kinds of pollen stored in one cell 92 No test of the presence of a queen 93 Bee-bread seldom packed in drone cells 94 Manner of discharging pollen 94 Discharging honey 94 Some cells contain honey for daiiy use 95 Combs constructed as needed 96 Best season for honey 96 How many stocks may be kept 97 Principal sources of honey 99 Distance a bee will go for honey 100 CHAPTER V. THE APIART — 100 Location 100 Location marked 102 Should not be moved 102 Space between stands 103 Small matters 103 Cheap stand 104 Disadvantage of standing too high. . . .105 Best cover 107 Bee-house unprofitable 107 Some will have them 107 Hives should be of different colors 107 Replacing queens 109 Several bee-houses - ill CHAPTER VL ROBBING.-113 Not understood 113 Difficulty in deciding 115 Weak colonies in danger 115 When to look out for robbers 116 First indications 117 Remedies 118 Equalization 120 Battles 121 CHAPTER VII FEEDING.-122 Feeding a last resort 122 Manner of feeding 126 Care 123 Object in feeding 127 Destitute colonies sometimes desert.. .124 Promiscuous feeding unprofitable 129 When they must be fed 124 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH WORM.-129 Some in best stocks 129 Moth proof hive not made ....134 Fear of the bee 130 Box for wren 135 How destroyed 131 CHAPTER IX. PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES— 135 Must not be put on too early 135 Making holes after the hive is full . . .137 Boxes may be too easy of access 133 A better way 139 Advantage of glass-boxes 139 When to takeoff 140 How to get rid of the beea 141 Bees not disposed to sting ..141 To secure honey from worms 143 The way the worms get in 144 Remedy 145 CHAPTER X. SWARMING— 146 Knowledge necessary 146 When swarming commences 147 Indications 148 Care in examining hives 149 Preparations for swarming 150 When swarms issue 151 Why drones are sometimes killed in spring 152 Which bees issue 153 The old queen leaves. .- 153 Hives should be ready 154 Immediate indications of a swarm.... 154 Swarm clusters 155 Howto do it 155 All should be made to enter 159 Carry to the stand 160 Putin movable comb hive 160 Shade important 160 Clustering bushes .' 161 Loss by flight 162 Nothing but bees necessary in a hive. .163 Do they select a home before swarm- ing? 164 How far will they go ? 164 One first swarm has bees enough 165 How to keep separate 168 Cannot be stopped when parts are on the way 167 How to divide 157 Different process with movable comb- hive 171 Swarms sometimes return 173 First swarms choose good weather 174 Exceptions 175 After-swarms 175 Their size 175 When expected 175 Piping of the Queen 176 Variation in time of issuing 177 How after-swarms issue 173 Number of queens 179 Do not always choose good weather... 179 Go farther before alighting 179 Propriety of returning ISO Moth worm troubles small colonies. .. .181 Uniting 182 More trouble 182 Rule 183 One queen destroys others 184 C H AP T E R XL ARTIFICIAL SWARMS— 185 Perplexities 185 Work well 185 Do it in season 186 First experience 185 Howto make artificial swarms ,..183 Manner of placing the stands 189 Operations with movable combs easy. 191 One division will make drone comb.. .191 Too many drone combs for profit 192 Honey made in boxes in the hive 192 Boxes transferred and finished on an- other hive 193 Queen-cell, to introduce 190 Time for queen to lay., .; 193 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. LOSS OF QUEENS.-195 When lost by swarms 195 Drone-comb. 193 Speculations .195 Disputed question 196 A multitude of drones needed 197 When the loss occurs 193 Time of leaving varies.. 199 Indication of loss 200 Kesult 200 Age of bees 201 Duty 201 Remedy 201 Mark date of swarm 203 Other remedies 203 Indications of loss in early spring..... 203 CHAPTER XIII. PRUNING— 20S Seldom necessary 205 The time 205 Difficulty in driving in cool weather. ..207 Best time 207 Little risk of stings 209 Frequent pruning not recommended. .209 CHAPTER XIV. DISEASED BROOD— 210 What is it? 210 Italians less affected 210 Where found 211 When first discovered 211 Description 211 Remedies attempted 212 Supposed cause 212 How it spreads 216 Theory 217 Caution .218 Examination. 218 Assumed knowledge 220 CHAPTER XV. ANGER OF BEES.-221 Causes of irritability 221 How they make an attack 223 Never irritable when after honey 223 Smoker described 231 Italians less docile 225 Bee-charms unreliable 225 Sting 226 Does its loss prove fatal ? 226 Protection 227 Remedies for stings 227 CHAPTER XVI. ENEMIES OF BEES.-22S Rats and mice 229 A word for King-bird 229 Chickens will eat drones 230 Cat-bird acquitted 230 Toad 231 Black wasp 232 Ants— a word in their favor 232 Spiders 234 Moth 234 Where their eggs are deposited 235 Worms sometimes work in centre of comb 237 Bees mutilated by webs 237 Bees fastene'd in the cells 238 Different appearance in old stocks. . .239 Worms grow larger when undisturbed..240 Freezing destroys them 241 Extermination of the moth 241 Seldom exempt in ordinary manage- ment 243 Remedies 244 COOTEOTS. vn CHAPTER XVII. WAX.-245 WTiat is it ? 246 Making drone-cells 251 How it is obtained 246 Some wax wasted 251 Commencement of a comb 247 Water necessary. 252 Orooked combs 250 Cells uniform in size 252 Straight combs 250 Melting of combs 254 Quantity of honey taken by a swarm. .250 CHAPTER XVIII. PROPOLIS.— 256 How obtained 256 New swarms sometimes use wax in- How discharged 256 stead 257 More abundant in August 253 CHAPTFR XIX. TRANSFERRING.— 259 Preparation 559 Keep brood together..... 260 Time when 259 Caution 262 How to do it 200 CHAPTER XX. SAGACITY OF BEES.-263 Too marvellous 263 No part of the hive inaccessible 265 Instances of sagacity 264 We should be content with facts 266 CHAPTER XXI. SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER— 265 First care 206 Season to operate 271 Strong colonies inclined to rob 267 Paralyzing bees 271 Requisites of good stocks 267 Description of fumigatior 271 Disadvantage to kill bees 268' How to operate 272 Cause of poor colonies varies in differ- How bees were wintered in a scarcity ent sections 26S of honey 274 Poor stocks may be united 269 Advantage of transferring 274 When it is not best 269 Uniting comb, honey, and bees 275 Two swarms united, eat less then when When it is best to feed 277 separate 270 CHAPTER XXII. STRAINING HONEY AND WAX— 279 Removing combs .279 Making wax 282 How to strain 279 Quantity wasted 282 Metheglln and vinegar >, 281 Large quantities 285 Feeding refuse honey 281 CHAPTER XXIII WINTERING BEES— 2S4 Different methods 284 Setting out 297 Warmth requisite 284 A building for the purpose 298 Size of colony 235 Room in dwelling house 298 "vni CONTENTS. Promotion of warmth 2S5 Moisture 286 Causes of starving 287 Dysentery 287 Water 292 Natives of a warm climate 294 Warm room 294 Cellar preferred 295 Housing 296 Burying bees 299 Straw hives 300 Philosophy 300 Straw top 300 Simple bos 304 M ice 304 Shade , 305 Lost on snow 305 CHAPTER XXIV. THE ITALIAN OR LIGUIilAN BEE.-308 Reputation 308 Importers 308 Superiority 303 When first obtained 309 Object 310 Peculiarities 311 Longer lived 312 Robbing 313 Disposition 314 Swarming 315 Hive crowded with bees in cool weather 317 Remedy 317 Purity to be secured 318 Variation in color of queens 319 Susceptible of improvement Neighbors join in purchasing queens. Mix three miles distant Colony to furnish drones Method of Italianizing a whole apiary Artificial queens How to rear them How to obtain bees for rearing queens, Black bees as nurses Best time to obtain brood Finding queen Introduction of queen Italianizing the box-hive, Test of the presence of the queen Transporting queen CHAPTER XXV. PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.— 3 Qualification for an apiarian 333 Luck &33 Purchase the best 336 Avoid diseased stocks 338 Old ones not objectionable 836 Transporting bees 338 CHAPTER XXVI CONCLUSION.-340 A. O E . One who for thirty-five consecutive years has succeed- ed in keeping bees, and has been able, most of that time, to count his stocks by hundreds, can hardly fail to furnish something from his experience, that will be bene- ficial and interesting to others ; and he will doubtless be pardoned for attempting to teach those who may desire to avail themselves of his knowledge, and thus avoid the tedious process of acquiring it for themselves. Twelve years ago the author explained some of the " Mysteries of Bee-keeping," to the public. The simple, practical and comprehensible instructions given, have met with abundant favor among old practical bee-keepers, and interested thousands who are now keeping bees with de- cided success. The greater number of bees kept, the increased quantity and improved appearance of the honey in our markets, encourage the belief that many who have at present no adequate conception of the immense annual waste of this delicious production, may yet be induced to make an ef- fort to save a still greater proportion of it. It will not be pretended that such immense numbers of bees may be kept in any particular section of the United States, as are reported to prosper in some parts of Europe, (2000 hives to the square mile,) but no one will deny that hun- dreds of thousands of stock might be profitably added to the present amount. It has been estimated that on an average, every acre will produce its pound of honey. New York alone contains 30,000,000 acres. Shall we suffer this enormous loss of the shifts of a beneficient Crea- X PREFACE. tor, without an effort to secure to ourselves and the com- munity, so valuable and vast a treasure? All that is necessary, is sufficient encouragement and knowledge of the subject. Enough has already been done to show that the estimate is sufficiently near the truth to be taken as a base for fu- ture calculations. An area of a few square miles in the writer's vicinity, has, in some favorable seasons, furnished for market over 20,000 lbs. surplus honey. Had a propor- tional quantity been collected in all other places in the United States, we could count the proceeds by millions of dollars instead of a few hundreds or thousands. The author does not offer this improved edition because he supposes that people would be unable to keep bees without it, but with the hope that those who are already doing well, may do better. A person who wishes to make the most ]DOssible from his bees can hardly afford to dis- pense with the benefit of any experience that will aid him. The instructions found in the periodicals of the day are often not to be depended upon. A score of bee-keepers, each of limited experience, will give as many different methods, and an editor equally inexperienced, is usually unable to discriminate between them. The simplest di- rections of a reliable practical bee-keeper who studies the science with an honest enthusiasm, are invaluable to the tyro in apiarian knowledge. To benefit the largest possible class, the author has en- deavored to be practical rather than scientific, and has aimed at no elegance of style or diction, preferring that the merit of the book should lie in its simplicity and reliability. M. QUINBY, St. Johnsville, JV. Z, April, I860. ILLUSTRATIONS. QueenBee 17 Regard of the Worker for the Queen 18 Worker Bee 19 Drone Bee 20 Brood from a Drone Queen in Worker Cells 37 Comb showing the different shape of Cells, when an attempt is made to raise Queens from Drone Brood 38 Ovaries of the Queen 41 Roof. 65 Simple movable Cornb Hive 69 Movable Frame 70 Wire braces to support Frames 70 Honey Board 71 Straw Hive for Winter 74 Bee House 10S Bee House 110 Bee House Ill Hives arranged in a hedge 113 Feeder -— — 126 Worm Gallery in the Comb 130 Moth-worm 130-240 Tool for killing Worms 131 Cluster of Queen Cells 150 Bag for Hiving Bees 158 Frames to hold Boxes inside the Hive 192 Tools for Pruning 208 Bee Hat 227 Bee Molh 235 Worm Gallery removed from the, Comb 237 Cocoons of the Moth Worm 240 Abdomen of the Bee, enlarged, showing the scales of Wax 247 Piece used to steady the Combs in Transportation and Transferring ». .. 259 Transferred Combs 261 Fumigator 272 Comb containing Brood from which to raise Queens... 323 No. 34 Inserted in a Comb ready for the rearing box ,...324 Queen Cells made on such Comb 325 CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. Every prosperous swarm or family of bees must con- tain one queen, several thousand workers, and part of the year, a few hundred drones. DESCRIPTION OP QUEEN. The Queen is the mother of the entire colony. Her only duty seems to be to lay eggs, of which she sometimes deposits two thousand in twenty-four hours. In shape, she resembles the worker more than the drone, but is longer than either, and like the worker possesses a sting, but will not use it upon anything below royalty. Her color upon the upper side is darker than that of the others ; the two posterior legs and under side are of a bright copper color. In some of them a yellow stripe nearly encircles the ab- domen at the joints. All the colors are bright and glossy, and she has but little of the down or hair that is seen on the drones and workers. Different queens vary much Fig. 1.— queen. j n co i or? some being much darker than others. A still greater variation is presented in the Italian queens, most of which are of a rich golden color, while a few are even darker than the usual shade of the natives. For the first few days after leaving the cell her size is much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties. She seldom, perhaps never, leaves the hive, except when leading out a swarm, and when but a few days old to meet the drone for the purpose of fecundation. 18 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. AGE OF QUEENS — THEIR OFFICE. The average age attained by the queen is about three years. The idea that the queen governs the colony, and directs all their operations, is probably totally erroneous. They manifest a certain regard and affection for her, how- Fig. 2. — REGARD OF THE WORKERS FOR THE QUEEN. ever, and a half dozen or so may often be seen gathered around her, as shown in the accompanying cut. They will, when destitute of a queen, continue their labors with as much system and regularity, as when one is present, although she is necessary to insure their permanent prosperity. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 19 WORKERS. All labor devolves on the Workers. These are provided with a sac or bag for gathering honey, and basket-like cavities on their posterior legs in which to pack the pollen of the flowers in little pellets for carrying it home to the hive. They range the fields for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct combs, prepare food to nurse the young, bring water, obtain propolis to seal up all Fig.3. worker, crevices and flaws about the hive, stand guard to keep out intruders, etc. Huber and some others divide the workers into classes, such as wax-workers, pollen-gatherers, nurses, etc., but it is very difficult to believe that any such distinctions exist. For the defence of their treasures and themselves, they are provided with a sting and a virulent poison, but will not use it when abroad, if unmolested ; they volunteer an at- tack only when near the hive. They are all females with undeveloped organs of generation, yet they possess enough of the maternal instinct to make them good nurses for the brood of the real mother. For nearly two weeks after the young worker emerges from its cell, it is almost exclusive- ly engaged within the hive ; thereafter, it assists in collect- ing stores. AGE OF THE WORKER. Its age varies from one to eight months, according to the season in which it is hatched. In the busiest season it lives but a few weeks, but when hatched at the beginning of cool weather, its life is extended several months. DRONES. The Drones are the males; their bodies are large and clumsy, and without the symmetry of the queen and worker. Their buzzing when on the wing is loud, and different from 20 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. that of the workers. They have no sting, and may be taken in the fingers with impunity. They seem to be of the least valuable class in the bee community ; they assist sometimes, in keeping up the necessary animal heat in the hive; but one only, out of thousands, is ac- tually serviceable in fecundating the queen. The number reared depends upon the Fig. 4.— drone, strength of the colony, and the stores on hand or being collected. AGE OF DRONES. Whenever a scarcity of honey occurs, they are all des- troyed. Thus their life is very precarious, being sometimes limited to a few hours, or extended to a few days, weeks or months ; but averaging much less than that of the workers. PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING. In the spring and early part of summer, when nearly all the combs are empty, and food is abundant, the bees rear brood more extensively than at any other period. The hive soon becomes crowded with bees, and royal cells are constructed, in which to raise queens. When some of these young queens are sufficiently advanced to be sealed over, the old one, and the greater part of the workers, leave for a new location, (termed swarming,) leaving those remaining to maintain the prosperity of the hive. They soon collect in a cluster, and if put into an empty hive, commence anew their labors, constructing combs, rearing brood, and storing honey, to be abandoned the following year, as before. THE NATURE OF BEES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD. We should fully understand that the nature of the bee, found under any circumstances, climate, or condition, is the same. Instincts first implanted by the Creator, have INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 21 come unimpaired through millions of generations to the present clay, and will continue unchanged. To gratify our acquisitiveness, we have forced them to labor under every disadvantage ; yes, we have compelled them to sacrifice their industry, their prosperity, and even their lives, but they have never yielded their instincts. We may destroy life, but cannot improve or change their na- ture ; the laws that govern them are fixed and immutable. Spring returns to its annual task, dissolves the frost and warms into life nature's dormant powers. Flowers, with a smile of joy expand their delicate petals in grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain upon their tapering points the anthers covered with the fertilizing pollen, and the pistil springs from a cup of liquid nectar, and the delicious fragrance imparted to every breeze, invites the bee as with a thousand tongues to the sumptuous ban- quet. She does not need any stimulus from man as an inducement to partake of the feast ; without his aid she visits each cup of wasting sweetness, and secures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina, dislodged from the nodding anthers, covers her body to be brushed together and kneaded into bread. All she requires at the hand of man, is a suitable storehouse for her treasures. Industry is a part of bee nature. If, when their tenement is supplied with all things necessary to take them safely through the winter, and there is no necessity for continued labor, we furnish them additional room, they assiduously toil to fill it up. Rather than to pass their time in idleness, during a bounteous yield of honey, they will sometimes deposit their surplus in combs outside of the hive, or under the stand. This inherent industry lies at the foundation of all the advantages in bee-keeping, consequently our hives must be constructed with this end in view ; but at the same time we must not interfere with other require- ments of their nature. Their peculiar traits mentioned in 22 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. this chapter, Avill be more fully discussed in different parts of this work, as appears to be called for, where proof will be offered to sustain the positions here assumed, which are as yet mere assertions. CHAPTER II. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD. Comparatively few people have a very definite idea of the time and manner of rearing brood. Many persons who have kept bees for years have bestowed so little attention upon this point that they are unable to tell at what time they commence, how they progress, or when they cease. They have an idea that one swaivm, and occasionally two or three, is reared sometime in June, or the early part of summer, and this comprises their whole knowledge of the subject. Whether the drones deposit the eggs, or some of the workers are females, and each raises one or two, or the " king bee " is a common parent of the eggs, is quite beyond their ability to decide. It is hardly necessary to inform observing apiarians that the queen is the mother of the whole family. WHEN THEY BEGIN TO REAR BROOD. The period at which she commences depositing eggs probably depends on the strength of the colony, amount of honey on hand, etc., and not ujDon the time when gath- ering food begins. Strong colonies frequently begin to rear brood by Christmas. When sweeping out the litter under the hives as early as the first of March, young bees may often be found under the best stocks. Observa- PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 23 tion shows that there is but little time when our best colonies have no brood — seldom more than two months. Yet stocks when very weak do not commence until warm weather. It seems that a certain degree of warmth is 1 necessary to perfect the brood, and this a small family can not generate. HOW BREEDING IS DONE IN SMALL COLONIES. In a small family, the first eggs are deposited in the centre of the cluster of bees ; it may not- be in the centre of the hive hi all cases, but the middle of the cluster wherever it chances to be located, is the warmest place. Here the queen will commence ; a space not larger than a dollar is first used, and the cells exactly opposite on the same comb are next occupied. If there is sufficient warmth "in the hive, produced either by warm weather or generated by the bees, she will then fill a spot on the adjoining combs corresponding with the first, but not quite as large. The circle of eggs in the first comb is then enlarged, and more added to the next, and so on, continuing to spread, and keeping the distance from the center to the outside of the space occupied by eggs about equal on all sides, until they occupy the entire surface of the comb. Long before the outer edge is occupied, the first eggs deposited are ma- tured, and the queen returns to the centre and uses these cells again, but she is not as particular this time to fill so many in exact order as at first, though with the Italian queen the brood is always very compact. This is the gen- eral process with small families. I have removed the bees from such in all stages of breeding, and have always found their proceedings as described. THE PROCESS DIFFERENT IN LARGE FAMILIES. Tn very large families their proceedings are different. As any part of the cluster of bees is warm enough for J k 24 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. breeding, there is less necessity for economizing heat, and coilfining all the eggs to one small spot, and some unoccu- pied cells will be found among the brood, and a few will contain honey and bee-bread. But in the breeding season, a circle of cells, an inch or two wide, containing bee- bread, borders the sheets of comb containing brood. As bee-bread is probably the principal food of the young bee, it is thus very convenient. LATINO. When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in prosper- ous condition, they soon reach the outside sheets of comb with the brood. At this period, when the hive is about full, and the queen is forced to the outside combs to find a place for her eggs, it is interesting to witness her opera- tions in a glass hive. I have seen her several times in one day on a piece of comb next the glass. The light has no immediate effect upon her, as she will quietly continue about her duty, not the least embarrassed by curious eyes at the window. I have frequently lifted out a comb on which an Italian queen was engaged in laying, without interrupting her in the least. Before depositing an egg she enters the cell head first, probably to ascertain if it is in proper condition, as a cell part filled with bee-bread or honey is never used. When a cell is ready to receive the egg, on withdrawing her head, she immediately curves her abdomen, and inserts it. After a few seconds she leaves the cell, when an egg may be seen attached by one end to the bottom. It is about one-sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform the whole length, abruptly rounded at the ends, semi-transparent, and cov- ered with a very thin and delicate coat, which will often break at the slightest touch. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 25 WHEN THE EGGS HATCH. After the egg has been in the cell about three days, a small white worm may be seen coiled in the bottom, sur- rounded by a milk-like substance, which, without doubt, is its food. How this food is prepared is mere conjecture. The supposition is that is chiefly composed of pollen ; this is strongly indicated by the quantity which accumulates in hives that lose their queen and rear no brood — that is, when a requisite number of workers is left. The workers may be seen entering the cell every few minutes, probably to supply this food. When the comb in the glass hive is new and white, these operations can be seen more distinct- ly than when it is old and dark. In about six days after the worm hatches, it is sealed over with a convex waxen lid. It is now hidden from our sight for about twelve days, when it bites off the cover, and comes forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg to the perfect bee varies from twenty to twenty-four days, averaging about twenty-one for workers, and twenty-four for drones. The temperature of the hive will vary some- what with the atmosphere ; it is also governed by the number of bees. A low temperature probably retards the development, while a high one facilitates it. BOUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEES. There have been some amusing accounts of the assiduous attentions given to the young bee when it first emerges from the cell. It is said that " they lick it all over, feed it with honey," etc., as if wonderfully pleased with their acquisition. If any one expects to see any thing of this kind, he must watch a little closer than I have. I have seen hundreds when biting their way out, and instead of care or attention, they often receive rather rough treat- ment. The workers intent on other matters, will some- times come in contact with one part way out of the cell, 2 26 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. with force sufficient to almost dislocate its neck, yet they do not stop to see if any harm is done, or to beg pardon. The little sufferer, after this rude lesson, scrambles back as soon as possible out of the way, enlarges the prison door a little, and again attempts to emerge, with perhaps the same result ; a dozen trials are often made before it suc- ceeds. When it does leave, it seems like a stranger in a multitude, with no friend to counsel, or mother to direct. It wanders about uncared for and unheeded, and rarely finds one sufficiently benevolent to bestow even the neces- saries of life. It is generally forced to learn the important lesson of looking out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle. A cell containing honey is sought for, where its immediate wants are all supplied. TIME BEFORE THE YOUNG BEE COMMENCES LABOR. Some have said that it would leave the hive for honey on the day it left the cell. Since the introduction of the Italian, we can determine this point very accurately by noting the day when the first one hatches, and also when the first one comes home loaded. It is seldom less than seven, and quite often fourteen days before they are thus seen. Some tell us, too, that after the bees seal over the cells containing the larvae, " they immediately commence spinning their cocoons, which takes just about thirty-six hours.' 7 I think it very likely, but cannot imagine how it was determined. I do not possess optical acuteness to look into one of these cells after it is sealed over. Sup- pose we drive away the bees and open the cell to examine the interior : the little insect stops its labor in a moment, probably disturbed by the air and light. I never could detect one at work. Suppose we open these cells every hour after sealing, can we tell any thing about their pro- gress by the appearance of these cocoons, or even tell when they are finished ? The thickness of a dozen would PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 27 not exceed that of common writing paper. It would be interesting to know how these particulars were ascertained, or whether they are simply surmises. When the bee leaves the cell, a cocoon remains, and that is about all we know concerning it. TEEMS APPLIED TO YOUNG BEES. The young bee when it first leaves the egg, is termed a grub, maggot, worm, or larva / from this state it changes to the shape of the perfect bee, which is said to be three days after finishing the cocoon. From the time of this change, till it is ready to leave the cell, the terms nymph, pupa, and chrysalis, are applied. The lid of the drone cell is rather more convex than that of the worker, and when removed by the young bee in working its way out, is left nearly perfect, being cut off around the edges ; a coat or lining of silk keeps it whole. The covering of the worker cell is mostly wax, and is pretty well cut to pieces by the time the bee gets out. The covering to the queen cell is like that of the drone cell, but of greater diameter, and thicker, being lined with a little more silk. TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE MATURE QUEEN. The time in which an egg originally destined for a queen will mature, will not vary much from sixteen days ; but when larva? that are started as workers, are taken, there will often be a variation. All of the three kinds of bees remain in the egg form three or four days; then in the grub form for five or six, partaking of food, after which they are sealed up. When bees are deprived of a queen, and have means to rear another, they select such brood as wiU produce one in the shortest time. Give them a piece of comb containing eggs just laid, some two or three days old, larva? just hatched, and some vary- ing in age from one to five days, and the first cells made 28 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. will probably be over the larvas about four days old, and in ten days a queen will have matured. To insure the possession of a queen, they may afterwards begin several others, perhaps use some of the eggs, or some that were eggs when the comb was given them ; but if the first queen hatches, she makes it her business to destroy all immature ones. SIMILARITY OF QUEEN AND WORKER EGGS. The fact that queens raised in this way seem to possess all the requisites of those raised in swarming hives, indi- cates that the eggs laid in worker and queen cells are all alike. It also gives rise to the idea with many modern writers, that all eggs for both queens and workers are laid in worker cells, and transferred to queen cells token wanted there. The antipathy of one queen towards another, al- though an immature one, and her own offspring, is thought sufficient to prevent her depositing eggs in these cells. Now, without sufficient evidence to be able to deny this positively, I must content myself with merely expressing a disbelief. I would like to say that J do not believe that the bees ever remove an egg or larva from a worker to a queen cell. For several years I have raised queens artifi- cially by the hundred, in small queen boxes. In nearly all the boxes, there would be some queen cells in that stage of progress when it would be supposed that such transfer would be desirable. I have watched diligently and never yet discovered it. Whenever a queen has been raised, the egg or larva was in the cell when given to the bees, and the workers always changed or enlarged a common cell to a queen cell. The shape of the cell depends on the position of the comb from which it is made ; if from a comb with cells of ordinary length, they are enlarged, lengthened, and turned downward. If the cells are not very deep, or are near the lower edge of the comb where there is abundant room to turn them down, PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 29 the enlargement and change of direction will be made very soon after they decide upon making a queen of it. SHORT CELLS USUALLY TAKEN FOR REARING QUEENS. In swarming hives, whenever the bees decide on rearing queens, cells that are short like those on the* lower edge of comb not completed, or on the side, seem to be preferred, and quite a number are often built close together. Mr. Harbison has, I understand, patented the manner of introducing the piece of comb containing brood from which queens are to be reared. It is simply to place the comb with brood in a horizontal position, thus bringing the cell vertical, and save the bees the trouble of making a crooked cell. The young bee thus stands on its head like a young queen, during this period of its existence. He does not claim that this makes it a queen, but that from the same number of eggs, more queens will be raised. I have watched such combs with considerable interest, when side by side with a piece of comb placed the other way, with abundant room directly underside, without dis- covering that a larger number of queens was produced, or that they were any larger or better. WHEN THE QUEEN LEAVES THE HIVE TO MEET THE DRONE. In. about six days after the queen has left her cell, if no competitors are in the way, she leaves the hive to meet the drone. I presume that it does not make much differ- ence whether she has been reared in a large swarming hive, or in a small box particularly designed for rearing queens. The meeting takes place high in the air. Very few have ever pretended that they have witnessed the connection. A few years ago, I saw a statement naming two individuals who had witnessed it. As one of them was a perfect stranger to me, perhaps I ought to qualify my opinion, and say that it is possible / but the other one 30 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. I happen to know is not perfectly reliable in all things, and if the truth in this case, is to be established upon his testimony, I fear it will lack support. The queen upon her return, frequently bears evident marks of her connection with the drone, and usually be- gins to lay in two days afterwards, and continues through- out the season, unless some special interruption occurs. NUMBER OF EGGS THAT A QUEEN WILL LAY. The number of eggs that she will lay in twenty-four hours, is a subject on which all writers do not yet agree, probably owing to the fact that the number varies from one or two hundred to three thousand. Take a queen that has been reared in a small box, and she will soon fill all the combs after she begins, and when there is no occasion for laying many, there are less deposited. She remains small in size, and seems to adapt herself, partially at least, to the necessities of the colony ; but this same queen, in- troduced to a' strong colony with suitable combs, in a honey season, will, in less than a week, greatly increase in size, so as hardly to be recognized, and will deposit two or three thousand eggs daily. This statement, when first heard, is received with a very large margin by almost every one: " the thing seems impossible ;" and yet a little patient observation convinces the most skeptical. I have had a colony in an observatory hive, where every egg de- posited could be seen. Visitors have frequently counted the eggs as deposited, for ten or fifteen minutes, and all have estimated the number laid in twenty-four hours to be over three thousand. Mr. Harbison says : " During the past season I worked a number of queens to their full ca- pacity for producing eggs, in strong colonies, by frequently changing combs from which brood had just emerged in artificial swarms where the queen had not yet become fer- tile, for combs stocked with eggs and larva?, stimulating PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 31 them constantly by keeping them well supplied with food, when honey abroad became scarce. I put two of these combs, being, about twelve inches wide, by fifteen or six- teen deep, into a strong colony, where the queen was very prolific. Over two-thirds of the cells were empty when put in, and within four or five days they were all stocked with eggs, except a few that were stored with pollen. This was by no means a single occurrence. It was repeated again, and again, making at least 10,000 eggs laid in four or five days." A person desirous of approximating to the number 01 eggs deposited, without being able to actually count them, can make an estimate as follows. It will satisfy him that a queen is the mother: If we examine a thrifty stock in the height of the breeding season we shall find the combs filled with brood, amounting frequently to three-quarters of all in the hive. By observing the number of cells to the square inch, it is easy to get the number to the square foot, then multiply this by the number of the combs in a hive, and we shall have the whole number of cells. For example, a piece of worker comb one inch square contains about fifty cells, including those on both sides. At this rate, a piece twelve inches square contains over 7000. Sup- pose a hive contains eight such combs, and that 120 square inches of each comb are used for brood, we have eight times 120 square inches of brood — 960 — fifty to the square inch would multiply into 48,000 cells. One or two of these combs w T ould contain cells for drones, which are a little larger, and the number would be thus somewhat reduced. Also some might be empty, the young bee having just left them, and a few here and there might be occupied with bee- bread or honey. Admitting the necessary deduction to be one quarter, we would have left 36,000 cells actually occu- pied at one time with brood in various stages of develop- ment ! We must remember that the time from the egg to 32 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. the mature bee, is not over twenty-five days at most ; hence all that are in the cells now, must have been put there by the queen within the last twenty-five days ! This gives an average of nearly 1500 per day ! It is common to find estimates that a single female will lay from 70,000 to 100,000 in a season. One says 90,000 in - three months ; most writers are apt to confound the number matured with the number laid. Let the number laid be what it may, thousands are never perfected. During the spring months, in medium and small stocks where the bees can protect but few combs with animal heat, I have often found cells containing a plurality of eggs, two, three, and occasionally four in one cell. These supernumeraries must be removed, and may frequently be found in the dust on the bottom board.* Another portion of eggs is wasted whenever a supply of their food fails. If we remove the bees from a stock dur- ing a scarcity, when the hive is light, we will be very likely to find hundreds of eggs in the cells and only very few ad- vancing from that stage toward maturity. I have thus found it in autumn, in July, sometimes the first of June, and in fact, at any time when the maturing of the brood would be likely to exhaust their stores, and endanger the supply of the family. Now instead of the fertility of the queen being greater in the spring and first of summer than at other times, as we are often told, I would suggest that a greater abundance of food at this season, and a greater number of empty cells, may be the reason that more bees are matured. * This is a good (est of the presence of a queen. Sweep off the board clean, and look a day or two after, for these eggs. Take care that ant's or mice have no chance to get them ; they are as fond of eggs for breakfast as any one, and might deceive you by removing the eggs. When any eggs or immature bees are found, uo further proof of the presence of a queen is needed. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 33 WHEN DRONES ARE REARED. "Whenever the hive is well supplied with honey and bees, eggs are deposited in the drone cells. WHEN QUEENS ARE REARED IN SWARMrNG HIVES. Also, at the proper season, when the hive becomes crowded with bees, and honey is plenty, the preparations for young queens commence. As the first step towards swarming, from one to twenty royal cells are begun, and when about half completed, the queen (if the conditions continue favorable,) will deposit eggs in them.* These are glued fast by one end like those for the workers. "When hatched, the little worm is supplied with a superabun- dance of food; this appears from the fact that I have frequently found a quantity remaining in the cell after the queen had left. The consistence of this substance is about like cream, the color some lighter, or just tinged with yel- low. If it were thin like water, or even honey, I cannot imagine how it could be made to stay in the upper end of an inverted cell of that size, in such quantities as are put in. Sometimes a cell of this kind will contain this food, and no worm to feed upon it. I surmise that the bees have compounded more than their present necessities re- quire, and stored it there to have it ready ; also, that being there, all might know for. whom it was designed. The taste is said to be " more pungent," than that of the food given to the worker, and the difference in food is assumed to change the bee from a worker to a queen. It can not be the shape of the cell, because I have known queens to be raised in cells that could not be distinguished from worker cells, by ordinary observers. *I do not assert this positively. All my observations indicate it, yet I have never seen her in the act. 2* 34 PHYSIOLOGY AXD BREEDING. WHEN QUEENS AND DRONES ARE DESTROYED BEFORE SWARMrNG. If from any cause, honey fails so far as to make the ex- istence of a swarm in any way hazardous, the preparations are abandoned, and these young queens destroyed, in all stages from the egg to maturity. When an occurrence like this takes place, the drones next fall victims to the failure of honey. A brief existence only is theirs ; such as are perfect, are destroyed without mercy, and those in the chrysalis state are often dragged out and sacrificed to the necessities of the colony. Such as are allowed to hatch, instead of being fed and protected as they would be if honey were abundant, are permitted while yet weak from the effects of hunger, to wander from the hive, and fall to the earth by hundreds.* These results attend only a scarcity in the early part of the season. The massacre of July and September is quite different. The drones then have age and strength ; an effort is apparently first made by the workers to drive them out without proceeding to extremes; they are ha- rassed sometimes for several days, the workers feigning only to sting, but very few are dispatched in that way ; yet there is evidence proving beyond doubt that the sting is sometimes used. Hundreds will often be collected to- gether in a compact body at the bottom of the hive ; this mutual protection affording a few hours' respite from their tormenters, who do not cease to worry them. In a few days they are gone, and it is difficult to tell what has be- come of them. If the hive is well supplied with honey in September, some of the drones have a longer lease of life given them. I have seen them as late as December. When the best hives are poorly supplied with stores, the bees will rear no drones the ensuing spring, until the *The destruction of drones at this time does not prove that there will not be any swarms, as some have asserted ; but it shows that there is a scarcity of honey, and that swarming is put off indefinitely, if not altogether. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 35 flowers yield a good supply. I have known one or two years in which no drones appeared before the last of June ; at other times, thousands are matured by the first of May. THE OLD QUEEN LEAVES WITH THE FIKST SWARM. The old queen leaves with the first swarm, and as soon as cells are ready in the new hive, she deposits her eggs in them, at first for workers, the number corresponding with the supply of honey and size of the swarm. When the supply of honey fails before the time for leaving the old stock, she will remain there, and continue laying through- out the season. WHAT BECOMES OP THE BEES WHEN NO SWARM ISSUES. As many bees die or are lost during their excursions, as are replaced by the young ones. In fact they often di- minish in number rather than increase ; so that by the next spring a hive that has cast no swarm is no better for a stock, than one from which a swarm has issued. We are apt to be deceived by bees clustering outside, towards the latter end of the season, and suppose it hardly possi- ble for them to get in, when in fact it may be caused by hot weather, full stores, etc. WHEN A YOUNG QUEEN TAKES THE PLACE OP THE OLD ONE. In ordinary circumstances when a swarm has left a stock, the oldest of the young queens is ready to emerge from her cell in about seven or eight days ; if no second swarm is sent out she will take her mother's place, and begin to lay eggs in about eight days. Two or three weeks is all the time in the whole summer in which eggs can not be found in all prosperous hives. NUMBER OP DRONES. The relative number of drones and workers, when the latter are most numerous, doubtless depends on the size 36 PHYSIOLOGY AND BEEEDLTSTG. of the hive. When a swarm is just hived, the first cells constructed are of the size for workers. If the hive be very small, and bees numerous, it may be filled before they are fully aware of it, and but few drone cells be built ; consequently but few drones can be raised. If the hive be large, considerable honey will be stored, and cells for storing honey are usually of the size intended for drones, and these will be made as soon as the requisite number for workers is provided. It is said that more drone cells are made when the queen is quite old. An abundant yield of honey during the process of filling a large hive, would also cause a greater proportion of these cells to be built. The amount of drone brood being gov- erned by the same cause, is also a strong argument against large hives, as affording room for too many of these cells, where an unnecessary number of drones might be reared, thus causing a useless expenditure of honey, etc. THEORIES RELATIVE TO DRONES. It is now determined that an egg deposited by an ordina- ry queen, in a drone cell, becomes a drone, and in a worker cell, a worker. I know that theories differing very ma- terially from the foregoing, are advanced by nearly all writers. One says : " In spring the queen lays about two thousand eggs of males, resumes it again in August, but during the rest of the intervals she exclusively lays worker eggs. The queen must be at least eleven months old be- fore she begins to lay the eggs of males." Dr. Bevan says, " the great laying of drone eggs usually commences about the end of April." All these theories are at fault. It is proved beyond dispute that drone eggs are laid at all seasons whenever the condition of the hive will warrant it. But there are those who have investigated farther, and who give us another theory : that the eggs for the two kinds of bees are produced separately, and that the queen PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 37 knows when each kind is ready, and the workers know it also. The fact that all eggs laid in drone cells will produce drones and nothing else, is to be accounted for. There is no possibility of setting this aside. The attempt to rear queens from such has so utterly failed with my- self and others, that we have no longer any hope of success. The reason undoubtedly is, that eggs laid in drone cells are not impregnated. Queens with faulty wings, or otherwise unable to "fly out to. meet the drones, or such as are raised late in the season, when no drones exist, are certain to prove drone layers ; every egg they deposit, whether in worker or drone cells, produces a drone. I have frequently, since obtaining the Italian, reared queens intentionally late in the season, that I may have drone-laying queens for the purpose of raising early drones. Such failed to meet the drones, and were drone layers in consequence.* When- ever the brood of the fertile workers has matured, it has proved to be drones.f No one will pretend that these Fig. 5. — BROOD FROM A DRONE QUEEN IN WORKER CELLS. *A drone queen, when laying in worker cells, does it more irregularly, or the bees do not nurse all that are laid. About half the cells are sealed over after being lengthened at least one-third. It has been recommended to " destroy such a queen and substitute another; and as the combs are worthless, destroy them, and let the bees build new." I have found these combs as good as new ones, and would advise retaining them. tl never witnessed the phenomenon of a fertile worker until after I had been raising Italian queens in the small rearing boxes for some time. I had used clean drone comb in several of them, and in some that had been without a queen a long time, I discovered eggs in the cells. Some contained as many as six, put in rather uningeniously, as if it were the work of a novice. Some were sticking 38 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. have become impregnated. All this indicates^ if it does not prove conclusively, that all drone eggs are unimpreg- nated. There is still another indication that they are not impregnated. The Italian queen that has met the native drone, and brings forth a mixed progeny of workers — ■ half Italian and half native — will produce just as pure drones as her mother, or one that has never met the drone. Does not this militate against any theory that the vivify- ing influence is incorporated with the egg in its formation ? on the side, half way to the bottom, and others were on different parts of the bottom. Some of the cells contained larvae pretty well advanced, and that eventually matured into apparently perfect drones. A day or two after, on tak- ing out a comb, I found a worker in the very act of laying. Her abdomen was inserted its whole length, her head, thorax, and wings being all that was visible of her body She was not disturbed at all by the removal of the comb, but con- tinued the important operation of depositing an egg, the gravity of her counte- nance indicating that she considered herself the important personage of the colony Fig. 6. — COMB SHOWING THE DIFFERENT SHAPE OF CELLS WHEN AN AT- TEMPT IS MADE TO RAISE A QUEEN FROM DRONE BROOD. by being elevated to the dignity of becoming the mother of a drone. I found that the length of time required by her to deposit an egg was three or four times greater than that usually occupied by a queen. A day or two after, I caught three dignified matrons at one time engaged in this all important and not-to-be deferred business, and afterwards observed several others thus occupied. I noticed that the phenomenon was usually produced by keeping the little colony PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 39 This principle is of immense value to all who would Itali- anize their apiaries. To account for their not being impregnated, especially those laid by a perfect queen, Mr. Langstroth says : mr. wagner's theory. " My friend, Mr. Samuel Wagner, of York, Pa., has ad- vanced a highly ingenious theory, which accounts for all the facts, without admitting that the queen has any special knowledge or will on the subject. He supposes that when she deposits her eggs in the worker cells, her body is slightly compressed by their sides, thus causing the eggs as they pass the spermatheca to receive its vivifying influ- ence. On the contrary, when she is laying in drone cells, as this compression can not take place, the mouth of the spermatheca is kept closed, and the eggs are necessarily unfecundated." Mr. Harbison replies that he has no faith in this "very plausible theory," and thinks that "facts, further experience and observation, will demonstrate its fallacy." It appears that it is easier for him to pull down than to build up, because, after showing the weakness of some days longer without a queen, and that they must be provided with plenty of drone cells. I never knew them to lay in worker cells. The instinct that prompts the desire to preserve the colony from destruction, inspires efforts to which nature will not grant success. They even endeavor to rear queens from these eggs, on some occasions. The great wonder is, why a worker should lay at all. The only solution that I can offer at present is, that the knowledge of, or grief at the loss of their mother, changes the internal structure of a mature bee, and develops eggs sufficiently vitalized to hatch drones. The theory that worker layers were raised near a queen cell, and by accident were fed a little royal pap, will not explain it at all. These workers were taken from a colony that had never raised a queen, and they probably never thought of depositing an egg so long as the queen was present. If this great anxiety for the mother was any less, they might sometimes neglect to avail themselves of the means of provid. ing one, when they had the power. The phenomenon of other insects than the bee, producing young withouf direct impregnation maybe witnessed in the aphis, (Plant louse.) Not only one, but several generations of females, are brought forth in succession. Towards the end of the season a few males are produced, which continue the species for a few months longer. 40 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. this theory, he offers one, that, to me, appears still more fallacious, and still more beset with difficulties. He states as objections to Mr. Wagner's theory, first : " that the ab- domen of the queen, where the sac is situated, is. so small, that when thrust even to the bottom of the worker's cell, it cannot be sufficiently compressed to impregnate the egg as represented, in. passing its mouth." Again : " When the old queen is hived with a swarm, she commences lay- ing eggs as cells are ready, and often lays in worker cells when only one-eighth of an inch high. Is it possible that the abdomen of the queen receives any pressure from the sides of the cells whilst in the act of thrusting her ovipos- itor into the cell to deposit the egg ?" He goes back to the theory of periodical drone-egg laying, not to the ex- tent of limiting it to two periods in the season, but to certain periods. He says, in substance (I condense his remarks on this point), that he thinks it highly probable that the queen knows that an egg in a drone cell willbriug forth a drone ; knows when it is proper to raise drones, etc. Who ever saw eggs laid in drone cells in mid-winter or early in spring, until nearly time for swarming ? Yet all strong stocks raise brood from January until summer. He has " cut holes in a worker comb and inserted corres- ponding pieces of drone comb which remained empty while all around would be filled with worker brood, etc., proving that no drone eggs are laid until the general simultaneous laying of all strong colonies. He gives us his concluding theory which I quote at length. MR? HARBISON'S THEORY. "At present, I shall content myself with believing that a sufficient portion of the seminal fluid to cause the egg to germinate, is incorporated with it in its formation. The eggs to produce drones or males are generated in, or pro- duced from one side or branch of the ovaries, and those PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 41 producing females from the other side. We find that the ovaries are separated into two equal parts, (according to Swammerdam, after whom Langstroth copies,) having no connection whatever, except that the contents of each branch is discharged through the common oviduct or pas- sage. Over the outlets of the passages or oviducts open- ing from each of these divisions into the main channel or common oviduct, the queen has full control, and fully understands that eggs from the one division will produce drones, and from the other, workers ; and the anomaly of drone-laying queens arises from the imperfect development of that part of the ovaries which produces eggs for workers." Let us see what there is in support of the two theories. He believes that there is enough seminal fluid to cause the egg to generate, incorporated with it in its formation. Yet in another place he admits that the queen is provided with a -receptacle for the male ele- ment, and doubts that any eggs are ever hatched that are not impregnated di- rect, in the following lan- guage. " That this is true, permit me at present to doubt ; its assumptions are too extravagant, and so far from harmonizing with Fig. 7.— ovaries of the queen. a11 animated nature, with which I am in any way conversant, etc." He should remember that we start with some facts not in harmony with any thing " with which we are conver- 42 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. sant." Where in the whole round of animated nature is there a female producing hundreds of thousands of eggs in a life time ? We have heard of a kind of ant that ex- ceeds even this, but we are not familiar with it. In ani- mated nature, as far as our observation extends, eggs are usually produced in series of dozens or hundreds, and the male is met for each brood. A female may produce one brood or more, but the queen will, under some circum- stances, continue an uninterrupted series from January to October. One impregnation is operative for a life time. Is there not wisdom in thus economizing; the vital fluid, and using it only when necessary? But eggs of some animals are impregnated after their formation, even after they are discharged, as is the case with those of most kinds offish, frogs, etc. The providing of the sac or receptacle of the queen, is an admirable dis- play of the wisdom of the Creator, in adapting means to ends. Mr. Harbison's supposition that because the ovaries of the queen are separated into two equal parts, that when the queen produces only drones, one side is imper- fectly developed^does not enlighten us much, even if we admit it. I see no reason why the side in which the drone eggs are formed, should not sometimes be imperfectly de- veloped as well as the other, and we occasionally have a queen that lays no drone eggs ; such a case has never been reported, to my knowledge. That she "fully understands that eggs from one division will produce drones, and the other, workers," I can not comprehend any better than that she would understand equally well when a drone egg was about to be laid, if they werja all formed in one mass. If drone and worker eggs were separated in two divisions, it would seem that the mass of each would be proportion- ate in size to the quantity laid of each ; but they are represented as alike in size. Perhaps no one would dis- pute it if I should say that hundreds of one kind are laid PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 43 to one of the other, on an average. Mr. H. says that a queen will lay none but worker eggs from January until about the swarming time, when simultaneously all queens in strong colonies lay drone eggs. Is one division idle all this time ? A queen in a weak colony, with but little honey, may be kept all summer without raising a drone ; they are frequently so kept. "What becomes of the divi- sion of drone eggs alt this time ? If it were natural for her to deposit them at a particular season, like the putting forth of buds and leaves, then the queens of small families should produce drones according to the season, and not according to the condition of the family. That the queen knows any thing about the kind of eggs she is depositing, is, to me, very doubtful. One circum- stance witnessed by myself, has a strong bearing on this subject. A colony in a glass hive had remained quite small up to the middle of June. One outside sheet of comb was three-fourths worker cells. For several days I had observed the bees cutting off the cells in which they had stored honey the previous season, for the purpose of rearing brood. I soon discovered eggs in both worker and drone cells. Shortly aftei', on opening the door, I found the queen engaged in laying eggs in the drone cells. Nearly every one already contained an egg. Most of these she examined, but did not use them. Six or eight, only, appeared to be unoccupied, and in each of them she imme- diately deposited an egg. After depositing the last one in the drone cells, she continued to search for more empty cells, and in doing so, she passed, apparently by accident, upon the worker cells, where she found a dozen or more empty, in each of which, without hesitation, she laid an egg. The whole time occupied was not more than thirty minutes. Each produced according to the cell used, drones in drone cells, and workers in worker cells. It is hardly worth while to tell me that she knew her series of drone 44 PHYSIOLOGY AKD BEEEDING. eggs was exhausted just when she laid the last one in the drone cell, because I should at once inquire why she ex- amined so many of those cells, if she did not intend to use them, had they been empty. It will require very positive evidence to convince me that those worker cells did not receive the identical eggs that would have been placed in drone cells had they not been pre-occupied. But can we account for the impregnation of some, and the non-impregnation of other eggs laid by the same queen in the space of half an hour, aside from the theory of Mr. Wagner? Among the objections raised to this by Mr. H., the strongest appears to be that the eggs laid in cells one-eighth of an inch deep, are just as sure to pro- duce workers as those laid in deeper ones. It is consid- ered by some persons as entirely fatal to the whole theory. For myself, I feel very reluctant to admit that it affects it in the least, yet I must acknowledge that it is somewhat obscured by the circumstances. I very much hoj)e that something explanatory will yet be discovered, because if it is rejected, there are so many things favoring this theory that will have to be otherwise explained, that the task will be very heavy. It is possible that when we have an arrangement by which we can wit- ness the depositing of these eggs in such shallow cells, we shall discover something that will shed more light upon the subject. It may be, that, just at the moment of the passage of the egg, or the act of laying, the contents of the abdomen are crowded downward, and it enlarges suffi- ciently to touch the sides of a cell only one-eighth of an inch deep. When I first saw the smallest queen that I ever raised, whose body was even smaller than a worker's, it occurred to me at once that if she ever laid, it would be a test of this principle. Her body being small it could not of course be compresssed like others, and a large portion of her progeny PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 45 would prove to be drones in worker cells. The result was just what was expected — one half were drones. {This queen was lost on introducing her into a full colony.) I have noticed, and no doubt others who have raised queens in the small boxes also have, that from the first eggs that the queen deposits, before her body is enlarged by the accumulation of eggs, there are many drones, even in the worker cells. There are two sides to this question. The queen either knows when she is about to lay drone eggs, or she does not. If it is admitted that she does, another question im- mediately arises, do the workers know it also ? When- ever the condition of the colony is such that drones may be wanted, we find them preparing for them. If they have no cells made, and there is room in the hive, they construct them ; if they are made, they cut them down, if they had been used for honey, and otherwise prepare them for the eggs. Do they do this because the queen has im- parted to them the knowledge of her wants just then, or is it the result of common instinct ? The hive, at such times, is sufficiently populous for the bees to cover the comb and maintain the requisite heat. They are getting a sup- ply of honey from the flowers, and simultaneously all good stocks rear drones. The stimulus of obtaining the honey seems adequate to produce the result. It is not necessary that the honey should be obtained from the flowers at the time. Sometimes it may have been stored the previous year, or a large quantity may have been fed, and then strong colonies will rear drones a month in advance of the season. "We can stimulate a strong colony to rear drones throughout the season, even as late as October, by keeping up sufficient warmth, and a liberal supply of food. I have frequently raised Italian drones out of the honey yielding season, when the natives were mostly destroyed, for the purpose of serving queens reared out of season. There 46 HIVES. is then much less risk of their meeting the black drone. There is still another theory of this matter of sex, offered by Mr. E. Kirby, but as I am unable to comprehend it fully, I will not undertake to explain it to others. Twelve years ago I dismissed this knotty subject with this remark, " I shall leave this matter for the present, hoping that something conclusive may occur in my exper- iments, or those of others. At present I am inclined to think that the eggs are all alike, but am not fully satisfied." Since then we have advanced somewhat, in theories at least. We have facts pointing very clearly to the con- clusion that eggs producing drones are not impregnated. By patient perseverance, I trust that there will yet be more light thrown upon this interesting subject. I am aware that this matter is of but little interest to many readers, and I am advised to adhere to the plain and practical, and avoid speculative topics. I shall endeavor to do so generally, but this is, to me, of such special in- terest, that I could not well avoid devoting a little more attention to it than will be agreeable to all. CHAPTER III. HIVES. SATISFACTION IN HAVING NO PATENT. There is a satisfaction, in being able to express my views on a subject involving so many conflicting interests, and feel that no one can accuse me of selfish motives. I have kept clear of all interest in the patent swindles of the day, and have refused tempting bribes for a simple endorsement of some particular "pattern bee-hive." I have refrained on principle from inflicting another patent HIVES. 47 on the community, whereby I doubtless could have made some hundreds of dollars ; for all the different methods of constructing a bee hive are by no means exhausted, neither is the race of credulous bee-keepers extinct. I have put myself in antagonism with the patent-vender, have endured his abuse, his sneering ridicule, and un- founded accusations. For what ? Certaiuly not in the hope of any pecuniary reward. It is said that he who causes two blades of grass to grow where but one grew before, is a public benefactor. So it may be said of the man, who even indirectly, aids in saving a portion of the inestimable sweetness now wasted on the air, for want of proper means to secure it. I have ever been anxious to advance apiarian science, and promote the interest of the apiarian, and if I succeed in ever so small a degree I shall feel amply rewarded. How can a man judge of the requisites of a bee-hive, unless he is thoroughly versed in the natural history of bees ? Not one in a hundred of those spreading patent hives broadcast over the land, is capable of giving an in- telligent opinion concerning the habits and requirements of bees. A patent is based upon some peculiarity of con- struction, by which some real or fancied convenience is obtained, and thenceforth that convenience is proclaimed to be the one thing needful for a bee-hive, although it may supplant other and more desirable qualities, if it does not induce some positive evils. NO DIFFICULTY IN OBTAINING CERTIFICATES AND PEEJTIUHS. There is no difficulty in getting certificates of the enor- mous quantities of honey produced by each particular hive. With few exceptions, all patent-venders are provided with them, as well as with " premiums " for " best bee-hive," received at all the Town, County, and State Fairs, through- out the country. A premium from our Fair Committees 48 HIVES. is no longer a recommendation, — every thing is recommend- ed as well as patented ; and when a man comes along who has nothing to offer in favor of his hive, further than the unprecedented amount of honey secured by it, and a fa- vorable notice from a stupid committee, I feel very much like dismissing him without ceremony ; it is evident he has chosen a sorry vocation. HIVES FURNISHED FOB TRIAL. I have, during my bee-keeping experience, received a score or two of patent hives, with the right to use, and a request that I would give them a trial. Some patentees were no doubt sincere in the belief that I would find their hive the "ne plus ultra" of all contrivances, while others, less honest, were evidently only seeking a word of commenda- tion, which would go far towards establishing their hum- bug in the confidence of the easily deluded public. It is often unpleasant to refuse so simple a favor as a trial of a hive, but although furnished gratis, there are seldom good points enough about them to make it worth the trouble ; and further, it is not desirable to have many different pat- terns in one yard. None but the experienced can realize the importance of this last consideration, especially where movable combs are used. Besides, many of these hives are a positive damage to the bee-keeper. I think it will be an easy matter to show that when one desirable point has been gained by a departure from simplicity, it is usually attended by a corresponding evil. NECESSITIES OF THE EEES. All variations from the simple box are for the benefit of man, not of the bees. The wants of the bee are few and simple. A suitable cavity for the combs is all that is re- quired. In good seasons, instinct will prompt the collec- tion of a greater supply than is needed for winter. I will HIVES. 49 guarantee that more honey will be stored in a barrel, box, or hollow log, just large enough to hold all that is gathered, than in any patent fixture ever presented for this special purpose. It is just as rational to contend, that, with the same facilities, bees will store more in your barrel than in mine, as that they will store more in one patent hive than another. GREAT DISCOVERY FOR 'PATENT-VENDERS. When honey is stored in the apartment where brood is raised, it is liable to be mixed with occasional cells of pol- len, and cocoons left by the young bees. The discovery that by making a division in the hive, that part separate from the brood would be free from all impurities, opened an ample field for speculation, and different methods of making the necessary division were at once invented. The chamber hive was probably the first of the kind. PRINCIPLES OP DIFFERENT HIVES. Then, to prevent the depredations of mice, the suspend- ed hive was contrived. Soon after, the inclined bottom board was added to throw out the worms. When it was discovered that bees destitute of a queen would rear one from eggs destined for workers, dividing hives of various forms were at once presented. Comb used a great many years becomes thickened and black, and needs changing ; hence the changeable hive. " ISTon-swarmers " have been introduced to save risk and trouble. " Moth-proofs " are offered to prevent depredations of the moth, etc., etc. I will examine some of the principles upon which these are founded, and then give my views of a good hive. CHAMBER HrVE. The chamber hive is made with two apartments, the lower and larger for the permanent residence of the bees, 3 50 HIVES. the upper or chamber for the boxes. Its merit is, that the chamber affords all necessary protection for glass boxes, and is a permanent cover. Its demerits are : it is inconvenient to handle, it occupies too much room when put in the house for winter, and only one end of the boxes can be seen when on the hive. They can not be properly examined without taking them off, and thus disturbing the bees. SUSPENDED HIVE. The suspended hive may effectually exclude the mice, and answer all the purposes for which it was designed, but there are evils originating in this very advantage that may counterbalance it. The inconvenience of inspecting the hive at any time may induce a habit of neglect that is often fatal to success. When all the cares of an apiary are as light as possible, there is too great neglect of duty ; hence necessary attention should be as little burdensome as possible. INCLINED BOTTOM BOARD. The inclined bottom board for rolling out the worms — the basis of several patents — may be said to be an utter failure. Worms are not disposed of so easily, for when one drops from the comb, if it ever does, it has a thread attached above, by which it may climb to its former posi- tion. Should it be dead when it falls, or so cold that it can not spin a thread, a strong wind might shake it off — and what then ? The objections to this are the same as to the suspended hive. They are a damage to whoever uses them, aside from the expense of right and construction. DIVIDING HIVE. The dividing hive was constructed to multiply stocks at pleasure. The fact that bees would rear a queen to replace HIVES. 51 one lost, gave rise to some very wild speculations. To make a hive in two parts, and when full, separate them, making two, and then put an empty half with each full one, on the presumption that the portion without a queen would rear one, was a theory that seemed very well until put in practice. I made a hive of this kind, and a Mr. Jones, a little later, did the same, and obtained a patent, but when they came to be put to the test of practice, we were taught a lesson. A medium-sized swarm put into such a hive will first fill one side down with nearly all brood combs, and this apartment will, most of the time, afford all the room needed for breeding. When they commence ha the other, they will build store-combs, the cells being too large for rearing workers. A swarm large enough to fill both sides at once will do better, but it will construct more store-combs than are profitable. In many cases when the colony is divided, the result will be no brood in one apartment from which to raise a queen, and a strong probability that the old queen is with the brood, and the part without her must therefore run down. If by chance there is sufficient brood from which to raise a queen, so small a part of the comb is fit for breeding that they can raise but few bees, and the colony will remain weak and thriftless for a short time, and then die. I also found that a colony would often starve with abundant stores. Bees take up their winter quarters among the brood combs, in the apartment where there is but little honey ; if it is all exhausted during protracted cold weather, they must starve. Only frequent intervals of warm weather, or warm winter quarters, can avert such a fate. CHANGEABLE HIVE. The very kind effort to prevent the bees from becoming dwarfs, has given rise to many forms of the changeable hive. We all know that when the young bee first hatches 52 HIVES. from the egg it is nothing but a worm, that it is fed a few clays, and the cell containing it sealed over with a waxen covering. It then spins a cocoon, or lines its cell with a coating of silk, inconceivably thinner than the thin- nest paper, which remains after the bee leaves the cell. It is evident, therefore, that after a few hundreds have been reared in a cell, each one leaving its cocoon, such cell must be somewhat diminished in size, and after a time be- come so small that the young bee cannot attain to its proper size.' It therefore needs to be removed that the bees may replace it with one of full size. This is all very consistent, and were it not that the patent-vender takes advantage of the bee-keeper, through ignorant or design- ing misrepresentation, I might have but little to say on this point. The most simple form of this class of hives consists of several stories one above another, with holes or cross-bars for communication, each section or story forming a hive five or six inches deep. Every year a full one is taken from the top, and an empty one added at the bottom. As there are usually about three, they are changed every three years, consequently none of the combs are over three years old. The one taken off usually contains the most honey. But of what quality is it ? It is even in- ferior to some pieces that may be selected from the box hive. Every comb and nearly every cell must, at some time, have been used for breeding, consequently they con- tain either cocoons or pollen, and are not desirable or fit for the table until strained. A hive of this class is one of the worst in which to winter bees. It is objectionable on the same score as the dividing hive — bees in one part and honey in another. Every hive on this principle is open to the same objection, whether the sections are placed one above another, or upright, side by side. Hives of this kind may be considered the most pernicious of any. They HIVES. 53 rob us of a goodly quantity of surplus honey, compel us to hazard greater risk in wintering, and cause the consump- tion of several pounds of honey for the renewal of a por- tion of the comb every year. And what are our returns ? In their most prosperous condition, some thirty pounds of inferior hive honey. When properly managed, this same colony would probably store a much larger amount of pure surplus, the market value of which would be ten times greater than that of the other. It will not do to reckon the value of new combs as an equivalent for all this sacrifice. I can assure the reader that there is no profit in such frequent renewal of the combs. All experienced and disinterested bee-keepers will bear testimony to this. Bees hatched from combs used for breeding a dozen years, are not dwarfed enough for the difference to be perceived. The bees seem to make a provision for this emergency by making the sheets of comb a little farther apart than ne- cessary at first, and the diameter of the cell a little greater than the young bee requires. The angles of the cells fill up in time, and as the bottom fills up faster than the sides, the bees add a little to the length, until the ends of -the cells upon two parallel combs approximate so closely that the bees can not pass freely ; before this time it is unneces- sary to remove combs on account of age. I find it estimated by writers that twenty-five pounds of honey are consumed in elaborating about one pound of wax. This may be an over-estimate, but no one will deny that some is used. I am satisfied from actual experience, that every time the bees are^ obliged to renew their brood- combs, they would make from ten to twenty-five pounds of honey in boxes ; hence I infer that their time may be much more profitably employed than in constructing brood combs every year. Now, to have the bee-keeper deluded into the belief that by paying for the privilege of injuring his bees, he is 54 HIVES. benefiting himself, is too much for ordinary patience. I have said nothing about the expense of construction, which is, at least, three times that of common box hives, and it is nothing but a box hive after all. This item alone is worthy our attention. VENTILATING HIVE. In cold weather, bees throw off moisture that lodges on the combs and sides of the hive, and causes mold. The patent-vender is at hand with several specifics for getting rid of it. The most effectual that I have seen — Mr. Fur- long's — is a hive with cross-bars at the top to support the combs, and panes of glass set up like the roof of a house, on which the moisture condenses, and runs down into a little trough of tin, which conducts it outside of the hive. This hive is much more tolerable than the dividing hive just mentioned, as this method of disposing of the moist- ure is preferable to the open holes. Were it not for the fact that the same result can be secured quite as effec- tually at far less expense, this hive might be desirable. (See description of box hive with straw mat for top in chap, xxin.) MOTH-PROOF HIVES. To keep the worms from the hive, has exercised the ingenuity of our accommodating gentlemen of the patent fraternity, for a long time, and they " have succeeded be- yond all expectations." The noticeable feature in men of this stamp is, that the less they know about bees the more they presume to teach others. In fact, one who is at home on the subject, does not believe a word of their profes- sions. He sees well enough that a moth can go wherever a bee can go, and that when the bees are gone, or too weak to drive them away, the worms are present. The worms can not destroy a strong colony of bees, especially HIVES. 55 if Italian, although the hive may he the most rickety old box imaginable, with hiding places for worms on every square inch. Put this by the side of the best finished " Moth-proof," and the chances are that the moths, or rather worms, will disjDose of the latter first. NON-SWARMERS. A perfect non-swarmer has not yet been constructed, although we often hear it talked about. I heartily wish that one could be devised which would answer the re- quirements, and furnish the surplus in good shape for market. I have offered $100 for one that would not fail in more than one instance in ten. It is not forthcoming, however, showing that those who talk most of their abili- ty to invent, have no confidence in their own profession. The only place in which one can put bees and not expect them to swarm, is a small dark room, and a few have been known to swarm even then. But here, the surplus is made on the outside of the hive, and is of unequal thick- ness, and in all shapes, thus being unsuitable for market. I have tried the experiment of putting on boxes, as on other hives, but they seem to ignore them entirely, making combs at random on all parts of the hive. When a person wishes to keep a few bees for the sake of the honey for home use, and wants the least possible trouble with them, he will probably be satisfied with this hive. But if he expects to sell a few thousand pounds, he does not want it in such an unsalable shape. I contrasted the profit of such a hive, with that of a swarming hive, in the first edition of this work, but I made one mistake, of which an interested party has taken the advantage, giving an unfair representation to show the non-swarmer the most profitable. Instead of comparing a swarming hive with a true non-swarmer, placed as I have represented, he as- sumes a hive to be such, when it occasionally fails to 56 HIVES. swarm, and estimating the surplus in boxes that a good hive would yield, he contrasts this profit with what I gave as about one-third of the average yield of a swarm- ing hive in good seasons. He simply changed the question to one not under consideration at all. I mention this to show that the statements of interested parties should be received with caution. I shall now make a similar esti- mate, but to prevent similar misrepresentations, I will give a little nearer the true yield of a swarming hive. Recol- lect, I speak of the real non-swarmer, in a small dark room. We start with one hive worth $5 ; at the end of ten years it is worth no more. The chances of its failing before that time we will not take into the account. We get annually, say, $5 worth of surplus — it will not be likely to be worth more, considering the shape it is in. This, with the value of the hive, will amount to $55. We will suppose that the swarming hive throws off one swarm an- nually, and stores $5 worth of surplus. To be moderate, we Avill call the average $2. The swarms will sometimes store $20 worth, but we will call their surplus worth $2 each. Commencing with an old hive that gives an increase the first year, at the end of ten years we have 1024 hives. These at $5 each, are worth $5,120. At $2 each, the sur- plus brings $1,092, which, added to the value of the hives, gives a total of $9,212, as a result to compare with $55. To prevent any misapprehension on this point, I will state that in this illustration, I do not intend to be understood that any one will realize such a profit, but it serves to show the relative advantages of swarming and non-swarm- ing hives. It is said that many of the pretended " non-swarmers " can be converted into swarmers, in two days, at the option of the apiarian. Colton could place on his hive six large boxes at one time, containing nearly 3,000 cubic inches. By removing these at any time when there were bees HIVES. 57 enough to fill them all, the room was so much contracted that the swarm was forced out at once. This was found to be more theory than fact, when put in practice. Bees do not generally swarm without previous preparation of at least a week. This hive, in one respect, is better than most patents. The large amount of room in the boxes, which might sometimes tend to . prevent swarming, gives all the bees an opportunity to labor when they do not swarm, and consequently more surplus honey is stored on such occasions. I understand that the " Farmer's Hive," patented by Mr. Hazen, is on the same principle. Any amount of room in a hive will not prevent swarming. If they fill from 1600 to 2000 cubic inches with combs the first season, they will swarm the next, nine times in ten, if the season is favorable, Avithout adding any new combs, although there may be ample room for them. To test this, I placed under five full hives of 2000 cubic inches, as many empty ones of the same size, without the top. I had a swarm from each. Only two had added any new comb, and these but little, showing that ample room will not prevent swarming. These hives swarmed w T hen there was room to make comb — some before any was commenc- ed, others just afterwards. Therefore, it is idle for any one to flatter himself with a prospect of success in such experiments, without an entire change in the conditions, j When a very large hive has been provided for a double, or extra large swarm, and they fill it the first season, they seldom swarm. They seem to have sufficient room in the large number of combs ready made, for all they can do, and there is no necessity for their emigration. The tyro asks what becomes of the bees raised in the course of sev- eral years. The answer in full will be found in another chapter, and I will only notice here, that after a certain maximum number is attained, there is no farther increase. They gain nothing in number from one May until the next. 58 HIVES. I believe that with the exception of the Movable Comb Hive, I have now noticed all the principles worthy of at- tention, involved in patent hives. I will now speak of a class of hives that will pay better when put in use. COMMON BOX BTVE. I will first notice a hive in the simplest form. It has been called the " Qninby Hive," because it was the only one recommended in the first edition of this work, but the title has not always been given in a complimentary spirit. I have no claims whatever to this hive, as it was made and used long before my day. I recommend its use with some little alteration, but it is no more a " Quinby " hive than two or three others that I intend now to recommend. I have studied for years to secure the greatest amount of profit with the least possible expense, so that when I ob- tained five or ten dollars worth of honey, I need not pay it all for the hive and its appendages. I would keep a few colonies for amusement and instruction alone, but when I increase the number to hundreds, it is with the sole intention of making money out of them. I presume that very many of my readers are actuated by similar motives. I shall again recommend the box hive as the best and most economical for a large proportion of bee-keepers — those who have no interest, time, or patience to study the science of bee-keeping — till they can give a philosophical reason why they should use a different hive. One desirable fea- ture about this hive, is, that no one has to pay for the right of using it. PROPER SIZE OP HrVE. After deciding upon the kind of hive, the next impor- tant point is the size. Dr. Bevan, an English author, recommends " eleven and three-eighths inches square, by nine deep, in the clear," making only about 1200 inches, HIVES. 59 and requiring so little honey for wintering bees, that when I read it, I found myself wondering if the English inch and pound were the same as ours. Whatever his expe- rience, I think this size too small for bees in any place. We must remember that the queen needs room for all her eggs, and the bees need space to store their winter pro- visions ; for reasons before given, these should be in one apartment. When this is too small, their supply of food is liable to be exhausted. The swarms from such hives will be smaller, and the stock much more liable to acci- dents. Yet I can imagine how one can be deceived by such a small hive, and recommend it strongly, especially if patented. Suppose you locate a large swarm in a hive near the size of Dr. Sevan's ; the bees will occupy nearly all the room with brood combs. If you put on boxes, and as often as full, replace them with empty ones, the amount of surplus honey will be great ; a very satisfactory result for the first summer, but in a year or two your little hive is gone. As we enlarge our hives, this result is modified, until we reach the opposite extreme, which is equally un- desirable. If too large, more honey will be stored than is required for their winter use, of which it is evident that a portion might have been secured, had it been stored in boxes. Swarms issuing from such hives will not be propor- tionably large, and issue but seldom. They are of but little profit, in surplus honey or swarms, but have the ad- vantage of being long lived. Between the two extremes, as in most other cases, is found the correct medium. A hive 12 inches square inside, containing 1728 cubic inches, has been recommended as of the best size. This, I think is large enough in many sec- tions, as the queen probably has all the room necessary for depositing her eggs, and the swarms are more numerous, and nearly as large as from much larger hives ; there also is room for honey sufficient to carry the bees through the bi) ^ - HIVES. winter, at least in many sections south of 41° where the winter is somewhat short. This size will also do in this latitude, (42°) in some seasons, but not at all in others. Not one swarm in fifty will consume 25 pounds of honey through the winter, that is, from the last of September to the first of April. The average consumption in that time is about 18 pounds, but the critical time is later, about the last of May, or first of June, in many places. In latitude 42° and 43° they commence collecting pollen and rearing their young about the first of April ; by the middle of May all good stocks will occupy nearly if not quite all their brood-combs for this purpose. But little honey is obtained before fruit blossoms appear, and when these are gone, no more of any amount is collected until the appearance of white clover, some ten days later. If during this season of flowers of fruit trees there should be high winds, or cold rainy weather, but little honey is gathered, and our bees have a numerous brood on hand that must he fed. In this emergency, if no honey remains from the stores of the pre- vious year, a famine ensues ; they destroy their drones, perhaps some of their brood, and for aught I know put the old bees on short allowance. This I do know, that sometimes whole families have actually starved at this sea- son. This, of course, depends on the season ; when favorable, nothing of the kind occurs. Prudence, there- fore, dictates a provision for this emergency, by making the hive a little larger for northern latitude, permitting the storage of more honey, to take them through this critical period. From a series of experiments I am satisfied that 2000 cubic inches inside is the best size for this section. On an average, swarms from hives of this size are as large as any. The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, - whatever size is decided upon. It is folly to accommodate each swarm with a hive corresponding in size ; a very small family this year may be very large next, and the HIVES. 61 contrary the year following. A queen belonging to a small swarm is capable of depositing as many eggs as one belonging to a very large colony. A small colony which is able to get through the winter and spring, may be ex- pected to be as large as any, another season. DIRECTIONS FOB. MAKING BOX HIVES. Select one-inch boards of the proper width to make the hive about square, of the desired size, say 12 inches square inside, by 14| deep. I prefer this shape for the box hive, but it is not all-important. I have had some 10 inches square, by 20 in length ; they were awkward looking, but I could not discover any difference in the prosperity of their occupants. I have also had them 12 inches deep by 13 square, with the same result. A neighbor has used them 12x18, and 10 inches deep, with much satisfaction. One- third more room could be obtained for boxes, with this shape. In seasons when no swarm issues, the great number of bees present would thus find employment. If we avoid extremes, and give the required room, the form can make but little difference. It has been advised to plane the boards for hives, " inside and out," but bees when first put in such a hive, experience much difficulty in holding fast until they get their combs started, hence this trouble is worse than useless. When hives are not painted, the grain of the wood should never run crosswise, having the width of the boards form the height ; not that the bees would have a dislike to this, but nails will not hold firmly, and will draw out in a few years. The size, form, materials, and manner of putting together, are now, I think, sufficiently understood. Sticks half an inch in diam- eter should cross each way through the centre, to help support the combs. A hole about an inch in diameter in the front side, half way to the top, is a great convenience to the bees coming home heavy laden. It is also essential 62 HIVES. when the hive is set close to the board, on account of .rob- bing. It is likewise necessary to lower the hives to confine the animal heat as much as possible, when the bees are engaged in rearing young brood in cool weather, as warmth is necessary to hatch the eggs and develop the larva?. Those who desire it, can make an additional en- trance to the hive, by boring a few holes in the side close to the bottom. TOP OF HIVE NOT FASTENED. Instead of nailing a top to the hive, as I have heretofore recommended, with holes through which the bees may as- cend to the boxes, I would suggest that there be slats across the top to support the combs, about three-fourths of an inch wide, by half an inch thick, and half an inch apart, one quarter inch below the top of the hive. Four or five strips, one quarter inch square, laid at equal distances crosswise the slats, Avill be just even with the top of the hive. The surplus boxes can be set on these, and the bees will find their way into them sooner than through holes in a top board. The queen is more liable to go up and de- posit eggs, but not quite as much so, as if the boxes were directly on the slats, and there is not much risk after the hive is about full of comb, before the boxes are added, which it should be. If such hive is to stand in the open air for the winter, it will admit of a straw mat on the top, after the boxes are off, or the cap may be packed full of hay, straw, or corn-cobs, to receive the moisture. A box for a cover or cap, 14 inches inside, will fit any hive. The height of this cap should be 7 inches. Of course other sizes will answer, but if we commence with one that we can adhere to uniformly, no vexations will arise by covers not fitting exactly. Where a double tier of boxes is used, covers must be made to fit. This cover, when on the hive, may rest on a strip of wood three- HIVES. 63 fourths of an inch square, nailed around on the outside, one inch below the top of the hive. BEST SURPLUS HONEY BOXES. Having told how to make the hive, I will give some reasons for preferring a particular kind of boxes. I have taken great quantities of honey to market, put up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass boxes, wooden boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood, and have found the square glass boxes to be the most profitable. The honey in these appears to very good advantage, so much so that the majority of purchasers prefer to pay for the box at the same rate as the honey, to taking the wood and having the tare allowed. This rate of selling boxes always pays the cost, while we get nothing for the wood- en ones. Another advantage in this kind of boxes is that the progress can be watched, and the boxes removed as soon as filled, thus preserving the purity of the combs. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE HONEY BOXES. Select thin boards of pine or other soft light wood, dress down to one-fourth of an inch thick, cut the pieces for the top and bottom of the box, twelve and three quar- ter inches long, and six and three-eighths wide. Bore a row of holes in the center of the bottom. If the top of the hive is a board with holes through, make those in the box to match. Next get out the corner posts, five-eighths of an inch square, and five inches in length. For receiving the glass, cut with a thick saw a channel lengthwise on two sides, one-fourth of an inch deep, and one-eighth inch from the corner. A small lath nail through each corner of the bottom into the posts will hold them. It is now ready for the glass. Get 10x12, cut them through the centre, the longest way for the sides, and again the other way, five and five-eighths long, for the ends. These can 64 HIVES. now be slipped into the channels of the posts, the top nailed on like the bottom, and the box is complete. Boxes one-half or one-third this size are preferred by many cus- tomers, but the bees will store more honey in large than small ones. I have a method of holding the glass in place by means of pieces of tin, but it has so little advantage over those just noticed, that it is hardly worth while to describe it minutely. GUIDE COMB. It will be found of great advantage, previous to nailing on the top, to stick fast to it guide-comb, in the direction you wish the bees to work. This will also induce them to commence work several days sooner than if they had to start the combs themselves. Put in as many as you wish combs in the boxes. Pieces an inch square will do, and two inches is about the right distance apart. To fasten them, melt one edge by the fire, or melt some bees wax and dip one edge in that, and apply before it cools. For a supply of such combs, save all empty, clean, white pieces when removing combs from a hive. For home consumption the wooden box answers equally well for obtaining the honey, but gives no chance to watch the progress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for- the purpose, which will need a door to keep it dark, or a cov- er over the whole like the one for glass boxes. Wooden boxes are generally made with open bottom, and set on the top of the hive. A passage for the bees directly from the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse than, useless. They like to store their honey as far from the en- trance as possible. Unless crowded for room, they will not store much in the boxes when such entrances are made. Whether we intend to consume or sell our surplus honey, it is as well to. have the hives and covers made so that we can use glass boxes when we choose. HIVES. 65 When jars, tumblers, or other glass vessels are used, it is absolutely necessary to provide as many guides as you wish combs -made, or secure a piece of wood inside, as they seldom commence building on glass, without some such inducement. The reader may have seen paraded at our fairs, or in the public places in some of our cities, hives containing tumblers, some of them neatly filled, others empty, with the magic sentence Avritten upon them u J¥ot to befitted" as if they were pretending to govern the bees by mysterious incantations, as a juggler sometimes per- forms his tricks. I have termed the cap or box, a cover, but this should also be covered, with a board, if nothing else. A good roof for each hive can be made by fastening- two boards together n like the roof of a building ; let it be about 18x24 inches ; being loose, its posi- Fig. 8.— roof. ^ on can kg varied in accordance with the season. In spring, let the sun strike the hive, but in hot weather let the roof project over the south side, etc. The boxes described, can be used on any of the hives yet to be mentioned. SOME DESIRABLE THINGS NOT FOUND IN BOX HIVES. Every bee-keeper has found that there are several things desirable in a bee-hive that the makers of many im- proved hives never think of. He has seen stocks most promising in spring, containing the brightest combs, just the right amount, of stores, and a strong colony of bees, begin to dwindle without any apparent cause, and has wished for some means by which he could inspect the in- terior, and ascertain whether the queen was lost or barren, or the brood diseased. He has often, in autumn, had col- 66 HIVES. onies with too little honey for winter^ and at the same time other hives with an over supply, and would like to be able to transfer gome of this surplus to the light stock. He has wished for an increase by swarming, and his bees have remained clustered outside the hive, refusing to swarm, the whole summer. He would welcome any inven- tion by which he could divide them safely and profitably. His bees would over-swarm, sending out many small ones not worth hiving, and ruining' the old stock. How could he remedy this evil ? He has found some swarms constructing entirely too much drone-comb, making the hive unprofitable ever afterwards, from the multitude of drones reared. How desirable sometimes to substitute worker for drone comb, and make it a profitable stock. When the moth-worm has gained a lodgment in the combs, could he have access to the interior, he could at- tack them in their stronghold. There are times when it is desirable to know exactly how much honey is on hand. If he could examine the surface of each comb he could determine without difficulty. In some seasons he has known colonies to so fill their brood-combs with honey, as to allow too little space for breeding, consequently the colony would be small, and all the open cells would not furnish room enough for them to pack themselves away for winter. He sees no remedy for these evils in the common hive. MOVABLE COME HTVE To the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, belongs the credit of in- troducing to us the hive that will accomplish all these desi- rable results. Several others have given us hives on the same principle, which effect the same purpose. So many really advantageous points are combined, without' interfering with any of the natural w r ants of the bee, that those of us who appreciate the requisites of a bee hive, HIVES. 67 and can take advantage of all the facilities offered, can hardly afford to do without some one of these forms, not- withstanding they are covered by a patent. SOME OF ITS ADVANTAGES. Each comh, instead of being attached to the top of the hive, is suspended in a frame, and the top is simply laid on loosely! When the bees are dwindling away, and we wish to ascertain the cause, whether queenless, etc., we can take off the top, smoke the bees a little, raise out a comb, and make the necessary examination. Thus, we can also detect the presence of diseased brood. We have only to take a frame from a full hive, and transfer it to the light one and the reverse, to benefit both. To make an artificial swarm, it is only necessary to divide the combs. (See chapter xi.) When one swarm has issued, we can, seven days after, take out the combs and cut off all queen cells but one, and swarming is stopped for the season. When too much drone comb is constructed, cut it out, and substitute worker comb in its place, fastening it in the same manner as in transferring from the box to the movable comb hive's. All suitable comb should be saved for this and similar purposes. The path of the moth-worm in the comb can be traced to his lurking place, and he can be dragged forth to the slaughter without difficulty. The smallest amount of sealed honey can be seen at a glance. The amount of brood that the colony shall raise may be controlled; instead of limiting the area of comb used for that purpose, to a very small space, it may be enlarged to any extent by re- moving full, and giving empty combs. Notwithstanding the danger of receiving more stings, and the greater ex- pense of construction, there is a class of bee-keepers un- derstanding the value of these conveniences, who will make it pay to use them. Ob HIVES. MOVABLE COMB HIVE AS USED BY THE AUTHOR. I will give a full description and manner of making one, modified by myself from Langstroth's, being much more simple. But he claims that it is not changed sufficiently to be released from his patent.* DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING. I make the hive as follows. Get boards twelve and a half inches wide, and one inch in thickness ; cut two lengths twenty-one and a half inches, and two, twelve inches. If to be painted, they are planed on both sides, other- wise only inside — these hives having frames on the inside to assist the bees in holding fast, the smooth surface does no harm, and has the advantage of saving the bees the trouble of waxing over the rough places. The two shorter pieces are rabbeted out on the inside upper edge a halt inch, to receive the ends of the frames. The whole is now thoroughly nailed together, making a box without top or bottom. The inside is just 12x19^- inches and 12-|- deep. At the bottom, in one end, is an entrance three or four inches long, by one : fourth inch deep, also an inch hole half way to the top. The stand and roof are made like those described for the box hive, only longer. The frames for the inside — the point constituting the superiority of the *I am not lawyer enough to decide the point, nor whether the other patents for movable combs are infringements upon his. Therefore I do not wish any- one to take the trouble to write to me for an opinion. I am instructed, however, by the owners of several patents, to advise any one disposed to use their hive with no opportunity to purchase right, to use it without hesitation, arid when the owner calls on them, if they are ready to pay for an individual right, no harm can be done. It is generally quite agreeable to have their value thus appreciated. That the reader may have an opportunity of choosing among a variety of hives of this class, I will give the address of several patentees of hives, to whom he may apply for a description : L. L. Langstroth, Oxford, Butler Co., Ohio. S. Ide, East Shelby, Orleans Co., N. Y. T. S. Underhill, Williamsport, Lycoming Co., Pa. W. C. Harbison, Chenango, Lawrence Co., Pa. Mr. M. Stillwell, Manlius, Onondago Co., N. Y. HIVES. 69 hive, — are made as follows : First, get out a triangular piece of wood, each, side an inch, and eighteen inches long ; nail this to one one-fourth inch thick, one inch wide, and twenty and one-fourth long. Each end then projects Fig. 9. — SIMPLE MOVABLE COMB HIVE. beyond the triangular piece one and one-eighth inch. Next, get two strips seven-eighths inch wide, by one-fourth inch thick, and eleven inches in length, for the ends, then one for the bottom seven-eighths wide, three-eighths thick, and eighteen inches long, to correspond with the triangular piece at the top. Use small finishing nails, and drive through the ends of the short pieces into the ends of the triangular piece and of the straight piece forming the bottom of the frame. When finished, we have a frame 70 HIVES. eighteen inches long by ten deep, inside. This will go down into the hive, and leave a half-inch space between the end of the frame and the hive. The strip that is nailed to the tri- angular one, with projecting ends, rests on the rab- beting and sup- ports it. This is Fig. 10.— MOVABLE FRAME. ^q Qn \y part t h at touches the hive. Eight of these frames will go in a hive that is twelve inches wide, one and one-half inch being the right distance from centre to centre. To keep them from swinging together at the bottom, a stick one-fourth by three-eighths of an inch is put across the middle of the hive three-eighths of an inch from the bottom, with wire braces in this form. Two small mortises, \ A A.A.A A A A,A one-fourth inch deep, hold it in place, -pig. il^wire braces It may be put in after the hive is to- to support frame. gether, by bending it a little. Very small annealed wire will do, cut into pieces long enough to reach through, and turn over to the upper side, to hold it firmly The points or angles should be just one and one-half inch apart, and the bottom of the frame should come down be- tween them, within three-eighths of an inch of the piece of wood. If it is desired to have the hive smaller than the above, the places of one or two frames may be filled by a board of the right size ; this is better than to vary the size of the hive. It is best to have covers to the boxes all alike, so as to fit all hives.* * There may be occasions where it is desirable to have very large hives, swell as will hold from 12 to 15 frames. I would suggest that it would be economy for some colonies to have full employment in the hive, in constructing comb and HIVES. 71 The top or honey-board easiest made, is a board 21^- inches long, by 14 wide, and three-fourths inch thick, clamped at the ends, with inch holes for passages to the boxes. Such boards are not reliable ; notwithstanding the clamps, they will sometimes warp sufficiently to let a bee slip out. Another one that will keep its shape better, is made of several pieces. Two of them are twenty-one and a half inches long, by one and one-half wide ; the others eleven inches long, two six inches wide, and two four inches. They are nailed to- gether in this form. The open spaces are for the passages into the boxes which set over them, and are covered with a box that fits the outside of the hive, rest- ing on a piece one-half or three- fourths inch square that is nailed around the hive one inch from the top. This is the hive that I use principally, and like it rather better than I do Mr. Langstroth's. He has fixtures about his, that must be considered more ornamental than useful, and for which the bees will not perform any extra labor. I am not sure but there are other hives conforming to this principle that would suit me on the whole as well as this. There are some that seem to offer greater conveniences, but cost more. Had I begun Avith such, I should probably have continued, instead of changing for the more simple one that I have adopted. The convenience of having all storing winter supplies for those that are deficient. In sections where there is considerable clover and buckwheat, it would be well to have them employed in the hive during the yield of buckwheat, which is of inferior quality, and brings less in market; and get as many combs made and filled as possible, that we may give hives nearly filled, to swarms the next season. We may then put on boxes at once, and there being but little room in the hive, the bees must of ne- cessity store their honey there. This will be the purest quality of clover honey, which would otherwise have been used for the elaboration of wax to fill the hive with combs. 72 HIVES. the hives alike is great, and to change all would involve an undesirable expense. I will notice some of the dif- ferent forms, and the reader may decide for himself, which, under the circumstances, suits him best, and let this be an answer to all who would write me to inquire which I con- sider the best hive. With the shape of the hive, and arrangement of the frames, I am satisfied. The depth is all that the comb will sustain when filled with honey, and the greater length of each requires a less number to fill the hive. The bees will store the back end Avith honey, and rear their brood in the front end, and use nearly every comb for both pur- poses. This is the rule in properly managed stocks. When winter approaches, there are empty cells in the front end, and honey enough in the other, to last through the cold weather, without obliging the bees to change from one comb to another to obtain it. They have only to move backward as the honey is consumed, on the same principle that they would move upward, in a hive deeper from top to bottom than from front to back. I would not have these frames the longest way up and down for two reasons. Firstly, you could not raise a frame 20 inches in length out of the hive and return it, without hitting the sides occasionally, and arousing the bees. Secondly, there would be too little room on the top for the boxes. When horizontal, there is one-third more room on the top for this purpose. Most of these movable comb hives are nearly square, which shape does not suit me. Some of them have ten or twelve frames, seven or eight inches in depth, by fourteen or fifteen in length. Towards fall, only a part of these, in the middle of the hive, will contain brood ; the outside combs are filled throughout with honey. The middle combs contain but little, and the bees begin the winter here. If they are in the cold, and con- sume the little honey there is in these centre combs, they HIVES. 73 are quite sure to starve before getting a supply from the outside ones. A winter passage from one comb to the other, is very essential when they are housed, but does not insure their safety in the open air. Of course any bee-hive can be ornamented accord- ing to the fancy of the maker. The plain strip around the top to support the cap, may be a heavy ogee molding, or that cut into dentils would present a tasteful appearance. The cap to cover the boxes may be orna- mented in the same way, giving the whole a finished ap- pearance, with but little trouble or expense. When painted let the color be light, and put it on long enough before using, to allow the rank smell of the oil to be lost. To all who use any of the movable comb hives of suitable shape, I would recommend, as a matter of econo- my, that they make the straw hive also for wintering in the open air, transferring in the beginning of winter. The inside should measure the same every way as the wooden hive, or a very little larger. None of these hives are very good for wintering bees out of doors, without at least a straw mat for the top, similar to the one recommended by Mr. Harbison. STRAW HIVE FOR WINTERING: BEES. The straw hive that I use is made as follows : First, get out four posts, two inches square, and ten and a half inches long. Then, from an inch board make four strips, two inches wide and twenty-four and a half long, and four of the same width, sixteen and a half inches long. With these, make two flat frames, 16|x20f inside, by mortising or halving at the corners. Now, set a post at each corner, and nail through into the end, and the same with the other frame at the other end of the posts, and you have a frame ready to receive the straw. Nail a lath around the middle, inside, another close to the bottom, and one at the 4 74 HIVES. top, letting the ends lap on the posts just enough to be held with a nail. Select straight smooth straw, — rye is best — cut it just 1(H inches long, moisten it a little, lay the hive on its side, and put the straw on the lath, till a little more than full, requiring some pressure to make it even with the posts. Some screw or lever is necessary to press it firmly. Laths corresponding with those inside are to be nailed outside, to hold it. Thicker pieces would, per- haps, do better. Pieces 1J inches square sawedjn halves, diagonally, would do very well, or pieces turned in a lathe, Fig. 13.— STRAW HIVE FOR WINTER. with beads and moldings, cut in two, and the flat side laid next the straw, would improve the appearance. A strong box to just fit the inside is quite necessary to keep the lath in place while pressing the straw. It is also necessary that the two middle laths are fastened together by a small annealed wire, to keep them from bending from the resistance of the straw when out of the press. The wire should be put on the inner one, and the ends remain projecting through the straw as it is laid on. When the HIVES. 75 outside piece is nailed on, and before the pressure is re- laxed, the wire should be passed around it and twisted to hold it firmly. The ends need nothing of the kind. Make a mat for the top, by framing together vertically, four pieces similar to those used for the hive, rabbet out the end pieces on the lower edge one-fourth inch square, to hold the ends of the three laths to be nailed on at equal distances apart. The straw is filled in and pressed, and pieces nailed over, like the sides just described. Mr. Stil- well has a hive similar to this in principle, (the shape of which I do not like, however,) in which the straw is held by sewing with heavy twine, the manner of holding the straw forming the base of a patent. Whether it is better on the whole, I am unable to say. For the Leaf or Underhill hive, or any, where the body of combs is separate- from the hive itself, a straw box with the top fast to it can be made just large enough to cover the frames. The wooden box for summer is simply to be lifted off, and the other set over. Glass inserted on one or all sides of a hive, makes it very interesting, but as we now have the movable comb, whereby the interior of the hive may all be brought to light, it is of less consequence than when we were obliged to depend on external observations for all our knowl- edge of the internal arrangements of the hive. OBSEKVATORY HIVE. The perfect observatory hive, however, can not fail to be highly interesting to all who feel a curiosity to behold the interior of a bee hive. It can be arranged so readily with one or more frames from a full hive, that all who wish can have one. One comb the size that I use, and a part of a swarm, will exhibit all the phenomena of a full hive. If several frames are used, they may be arranged accord- ing to fancy or convenience, one above another, or some 76 BEE PASTUEAGE. above, and others at the ends. A mechanic will construct a special frame to hold them, and a glazed sash to cover each side, giving two inches space between, for the comb. The sash on one side should be movable, that the comb can be changed occasionally, and if more than one is used, that they may all be removed to a regular hive for winter, as such observatory hives are not suitable for cold weather. CHAPTER IV BEE PASTURAGE. During the warm days of spring, while the winter's snow is melting away, and before the flowers have appear- ed, the bees seem anxious to be at work. It is then inter- esting to watch them, and ascertain what they will use as substitutes for pollen and honey. SUBSTITUTE FOR POLLEN. At such periods I have seen hundreds engaged upon a heap of saw- dust, gathering the minute particles into pel- lets on their legs, and seeming quite pleased with the acquisition. Rotten wood, when crumbled into dry pow- der, is also collected. Flour scattered near the hive is taken up in large quantities. Concerning the utility of flour as a substitute for pollen, I have now had considera- ble experience. Yet much depends on the locality, num- ber of the bees, and quantity of snow. Where there are but few bees, and little snow, the early flowers appear so soon after the bees begin to fly, that flour is of but little advantage. But when the number of bees greatly exceeds the supply, the flour should be given during pleasant days, to promote early breeding, and establish habits of BEE PASTURAGE. 77 industry, as well as to prevent marauding, which is very important. To feed it advantageously, make a floor a few feet square, with a curb around, three or four inches high, to prevent waste. When practicable, feed rye, ground very fine, and unbolted. The bees seem to like to work out the flour and fine particles from among the bran, bet- ter than to work in clear flour. Yet the latter will do when the former is not to be obtained, but should be mixed with cut straw or saw-dust. The bran left by the bees may be fed to other stock. When the flowers yield pollen in sufficient quantities, they will no longer take the flour. It should be remembered that flour feed is only advantageous in the earliest part of the season. Unless it can be given then, it is useless to take the trouble. SUBSTITUTE FOR HONEY. A substitute for a small quantity of honey is found in the sap of a few kinds of trees. A syrup made from su- gar is a very good substitute for honey. MANNER OP PACKING POLLEN. The particular manner of packing pollen has been sat- isfactorily witnessed by but very few persons, as the oper- ation is mostly performed on the wing, thereby preventing a fair chance for minutely inspecting it. When collecting pollen only, they light upon the flowers, and pass rapidly over the stamens, detaching a portion of the dust, which lodges on most parts of them, and is brushed together, and packed into pellets when they are again on the wing. While the bees are gathering flour, the process is more readily seen. The Italians may often be seen appropriating old bits of comb that have been squeezed together, and propolis from old boards of broken hives. They merely 78 BEE PASTTTEAGE. bite off little particles, and pack them on their thighs, be- fore they rise on the wing. As soon as a load is obtained, they immediately return to the hive, each bee bringing several loads in a day. Honey, as it is collected, is depo- sited in the abdomen, and kept out of sight until stored in the hive. The time that bees commence their labors in the spring does not by any means govern the time of swarming ; this depends upon the weather through April and May. FLOWERS THAT YIELD THE FIRST POLLEN. The first material gathered from flowers is pollen. Common or Candle Alder, (Alnus serrulata) and Skunk Cabbage, (Symploearpus foetidus,) yield the first supply. In this latitude (42°) their time of flowering varies from March 10th to April 20th. The amount of pollen they afford is also variable. Cold freezing weather frequently destroys a great portion of the flowers after they are out. The staminate flowers of the alder are nearly perfected the previous season, and a few warm days in spring will develop them before any leaves appear. When the weather continues fine, great quantities of ppllen are secured. Our swamps produce several kinds of willows (/Salix) that put out their blossoms very irregularly. Some of these bushes are a month earlier than others, and some of the buds on the same bush are a week or two later than the rest. These also afford only pollen, but are a much more sure de- pendence than the alder ; a turn of cold weather can not at any time destroy more than a small proportion of the flowers. The Aspen, (Populus tremuloides) which comes next, is not a particular favorite with the bees, as but few, comparatively, visit it. It is followed very soon by an abundance of the Red Maple, {Acer rubrum,) that suits them better, but this, like some others, is often lost by freezing. BEE PASTURAGE. 79 FIRST HONEY. The first honey of any account is obtained from the Golden Willow, (Salix vitellina); which is seldom injured by frost. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, pear and peach trees contribute a share of both honey and pollen. Sugar Maple, (Acer saccharinum) throws out its ten thousand beautiful silken tassels with a bounteous yield of tempting nectar. Strawberries modestly open their petals in invi- tation, but like " obscure virtues," are often neglected for the more conspicuous Dandelion, and the showy and fra- grant blossoms of the Apple, which now open their stores, and offer to the bees a real harvest. FRUIT FLOWERS IMPORTANT. In good weather, a gain of 20 pounds is sometimes ad- ded to the hives during the period of apple blossoms. But we are seldom fortunate enough to have continuous good weather, as it is often rainy, cloudy, cool -or windy, all of which conditions are very detrimental. A frost will sometimes destroy all, and the gain of our bees is reversed, that is, their stores are lighter at the end than at the be- ginning of this season of flowers. Yet this season often decides the prosperity of the bees for the summer. If there is good weather now, we expect our first swarms about June 1st ; if not, no subsequent yield of honey will make up the deficiency. We now have a time of several days, from 10 to 14, in which there are but few flowers. If our hives are poorly supplied when this scarcity occurs, it will so disarrange their plans for swarming, that no preparations are again made much before July, and sometimes not at all. In sections where the wild cherry, (JPrunies serotina) abounds, these flowers will appear, and fill the period of scarcity which this section annually presents. The Locust, (Mobinia Pseudacacia), blossoms at this time, and where it is suffi- 80 BEE PASTURAGE. ciently abundant, is valuable as bee food, while it is also well worthy of cultivation for timber. RED RASPBERRY A FAVORITE. The Red Raspberry, (Rubus strigosus) now presents the stamens as the most conspicuous part of the flower, soliciting the attention of the bee, by pouring out the bounteous libations so highly prized by our industrous in- sect. For several weeks they are allowed to partake of this exquisite beverage ; it is secreted at all hours, and in all kinds of weather. "When the morning is warm, we often hear their cheerful humming among the leaves and flowers of this shrub, before the sun appears above the horizon. The gentle shower, sufhcient to induce man to seek shelter, is often unheeded by the bee when luxuri- ating among these flowers; even white clover, important as it is in furnishing the greatest part of the stores, would be neglected at this season, if the raspberry only yielded a full supply. Clover begins to blossom with the rasp- berry, and continues longer. HONEY FROM RED CLOVER. Red clover probably secretes as much honey as the white, but the tube of the corolla being longer, common bees appear to be unable to reach it. I have seen a few at work upon it, but it appeared to be slow business. The Italians work on it sometimes, apparently out of choice. Sorrel, (Miimex acetosetta), the pest of many farmers, is brought under contribution by the bees, and furnishes pollen in any quantity. Morning is the only part of the day appropriated to its collection. CATNIP ONE OF THE BEST HONEY YIELDING PLANTS. Catnip {Nepeta Cataria), Mother wort, {Leonurus Cardi- aoa), and Hoarhound (Marruhium vidgare,) put forth BEE PASTURAGE. 81 their flowers about the middle of June, rich in sweetness, and like the raspberry, the bees visit them at all hours, and in nearly all kinds of weather. They remain in bloom from four to six weeks ; in a few instances I have known the catnip to last twelve, yielding honey during the whole time. If there is-any plant that I would cultivate especially for honey, it would be catnip. I find nothiug to surpass it. Borage has been recommended as yielding abundantly, and worthy of cultivation, but the profusion of flowers produced by the catnip, seems to excel it. The Alsike or Swedish white clover has also much to recommend it. The plant being valuable for soiling cattle, or for hay, would be a desirable acquisition to the bee-keeping farmer, as well as to others on whose land it will thrive. It does not do well on sandy soil, with me. Ox-eye Daisy (JOeucanthemum viclgare), a beautiful flower in 'pasture and meadow, and worth but little in either, also contains some honey. The flower is compound, and each little floret secretes so minute a quantity that the task of obtaining a load is very tedious. It is only visited when the more copiously honey-yielding flowers are scarce. The Toad-flax or Snap-dragon, (Linaria vulgaris), with its disagreeable odor, troubling the farmer with its vile presence, is made to bestow the only good thing about it, except its beauty, xipon our insect. The flower is large and tubular, and to reach the honey the bee must enter it. To see the bee almost disappear within the folds of the corolla, one would think it was about being swallowed, but it soon emerges, covered with dust, unharmed, from the yellow prison. This is not brushed into pellets on its legs, like the pollen from some other floAvers, and some adheres to its back, between the»wings, which it is apparently unable to remove, as it often remains there for months. Bush Honey-suckle, (DierviMa trifida), is another particular fa- vorite. 4* 82 BEE PASTURAGE. SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILKWEED. Silkweed, (Asclepias Comuti), is another honey -yielding perennial, but a singular fatality befalls many bees while gath- ering honey from it, that I never have seen noticed./ I have observed during the period this plant was in bloom, that a number of the bees belonging to hives not full, were unable to ascend the sides to the comb ; there would be some times thirty or more at the bottom in the morning. On searching for the cause, I found from one to ten thin yellow scales, of a long pear-shape, and about the twentieth part of an inch long, attached to their feet: At the small end was a black thread-like substance, from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch in length ; on this stem was a glutinous matter, that firmly adhered to each foot or claw of the bee, preventing it from climbing the sides of the hive. I also found this appendage attached to bees clustered outside of full hives, but it appeared to be no inconvenience to them", j Among the scales of wax, and waste matter that accumulates about the swarms to some extent, I found a great many of these scales which the bees had worked from their feet. The question then arose, were these scales a foreign sub- stance, accidentally entangled in their claws, or was it a natural formation? It was soon decided. From the number of be£s carrying it, I was satisfied that if it were the product of any flower, it belonged to a species some- what abundant. I made a close examination of all such as were then in bloom. I found the flowers of the Silk-weed or Milk-weed, sometimes holding a dead bee by the foot, secured by this appendage. Both sepals and petals of this flower are turned backward towards the stem, forming five acute angles or notches, just the trap for a bee with this attachment. When at work, they are very liable to slip a foot into one of these notches ; the flower being thick and firm, holds it fast, and pulling only draws it deeper in the wedge-like cavity. The appendage which causes so much BEE PASTUBA.GE. 83 trouble to the bees, is the pollen of the Silk-weed, which in all the species has a singular form. Instead of being, as is the case in most flowers, a fine dust, the pollen grains are stuck together in little waxy masses or scales, and these are joined together in pairs by the thread-like appendage above noticed. These masses are, in the flower, each lodged in a little pouch with only the attachment exposed, and were it not for the agency of bees and other insects, the pollen would not be dislodged from these pouches and brought in contact with the pistil of the flower. When I point out a loss among bees, I would like to give a reme- dy, but here I am unable to do so. I am not sure but honey enough is obtained by such bees as escape, to coun- terbalance the loss. Whitewood, (Liriodendron Tidipifera), yields some- thing eagerly sought for by the bees, but whether honey or pollen, or both, I have never ascertained. Mr. Harbi- son asserts it to be honey. I have never examined the flowers. It is very scarce in Montgomery and Greene Counties. Mr. Langstroth speaks of it as " one of the greatest honey-producing trees in the world. As its blos- soms expand in succession, new swarms will sometimes fill their hives from this source alone." BASSWOOD VERT IMPORTANT. __ Basswood, {Tilia Americana), is abundant in some pla- ces, and yields honey clear and transparent as water, of a delicious flavor, with a perceptible, yet not unpleasant taste of mint. During the time this tree is in bloom, a period of two or three weeks, in many sections, astonishing quantities are obtained when the weather is favorable. It is less likely to be cut off by bad weather, than other blos- soms. A person once assured me that he had known ten pounds of honey collected in a day, while this was in flower, by one swarm. I have seen a statement by a wri- 84 BEE PASTURAGE. ter in Wisconsin, that " hives have increased in weight one hundred pounds while this tree was in bloom." I think these statements are quite as large as can be credited. I have no comparable experience. I have weighed hive3 during the seasons of apple blossoms, buckwheat and clo- ver, the best source of honey wherever I have kept bees, and three and one-half pounds is the greatest yield I ever found in one day. As a shade tree, Basswood, or as some- times called, Linden, ranks with the finest. It is hardy, and bears transplanting better than most kinds. This stately tree with its graceful clusters of fragrant flowers, adorns village or country grounds, while the soft music of the industrious bee, among the branches, is attractive to the dullest ear. The honey resources of the country might be greatly increased by planting such trees. Sumach, (Hhics gldbr'a), is rich in its quality and yield of honey. The shrubs coming into bloom in succession, the supply is protracted beyond the duration of one set of blossoms. Mustard, (Sinapis nigra), is also a great fa- vorite. Its cultivation is remunerative for its seed alone, and when we add the advantage that it is to the bees, there seems to be a sufficient inducement to cultivate it. I have now mentioned most of the honey-producing trees and plants, which bloom before the middle of July. The course of these flowers is termed the first yield. In sec- tions where there are no crops of buckwheat, it con- stitutes the only full one. Other flowers continue to bloom until cold weather. Where white clover is abundant, and the fields are used for pasture, it will continue' to throw out fresh flowers, sometimes, throughout the entire sum- mer, yet the bees consume about all they collect, in rearing their brood, etc. Thus, it appears, that in some sections the bees have only about six or eight weeks in which to provide for winter. BEE PASTURAGE. 85 HONEY DEW. Honey dew is said to be a source whence large collections are made in some places. When or where it appears or disap- pears, is more than I can tell, from my own experience. Twelve years ago, I expressed what was taken for doubt ot the existence of any such substance. To enlighten me on the subject, and give ocular demonstration, some of my friends, living where it was found, have kindly sent me specimens — leaves covered with it — for my inspection. It appeared and tasted as if some saccharine substance somewhat dilu- ted, had been spread evenly over the upper side of the leaf, and the watery particles had evaporated. I have seen de- scriptions of it as found somewhere, well towards the Golden State, that exceeded any thing I ever heard of in the Eastern States. It was described as covering leaves and branches in such quantities as to bend them down with the excessive weight. The quantity was so great as to induce an effort to collect it by hand. The question as to its origin has been pretty thoroughly discussed without arriving at any particularly clear conclusion. It is generally attributed to the Aphis or Plant Louse. It will be seen that this theory of its_ origin will account for only a part of the phenomena. Some years ago, in the month of Au- gust, I noticed on passing under some willow trees, {Salix yitellina), that the grass and stones were covered with a wet or shining substance. I found that nearly all the smallest branches were covered with a species of large aphis, apparently engaged in sucking the juices, and oc- casionally discharging a minute drop of a transparent liquid. I guessed this might be honey dew. I visited the place again after sunrise, to see if there were any bees collecting it. I found them in hundreds, together with ants, hornets, and wasps. Some were on the branches with the aphis, others on the leaves, and some on the grass and stones. This liquid, ejected by the aphis when sucking 86 BEE PASTURAGE. the juices of tender leaves or branches, and received by ants that are usually in attendance, is probably the honey clew of many writers. Ants, instead of bees, gen- erally collect it. These insects have been very appropri- ately termed " ants' cows," as they are regarded by them with the most tender care and solicitude. In July or Au- gust, when the majority of the leaves of the apple trees are matured, there are often a few sprouts or suckers about the lower part of the trunk, that continue growing and putting out fresh leaves. On the under side of these, you will find this insect by hundreds, of all sizes, from those just hatched to the perfect aphis. All appear to be en- gaged in sucking the bitter juice from the tender leaf and stalk. The ants are among them by scores. The careless observer often accuses them of doing the injury instead of the aphis. Occasionally there will issue from the abdo- men of the aphis a small transparent" globule, which the ant is ready to receive. When a load is obtained, it de- scends to the nest. Many other kinds of trees and plants are used by the ants as " cow pasture," and most kinds of ants are engaged in this dairy business. Would the bees attend the aphis for this secretion if .the ants left any to be gathered ? Or, if there were no ants or bees, would this secretion be discharged and falling on the leaves below them, be honey dew ? If they were situated on some lof- ty trees, and it lodged on the leaves of small bushes nearer the earth, it would be considered such by some. TJNTJSUAL SECRETION. I once discovered bees collecting a secretion unconnect- ed with flowers, but which was not honey dew, as it has been described. I was passin g a bush of Witch-hazel, {Hamamcelis Virginiana), and my attention was arrested by an unusual humming of bees. At first I supposed that a swarm was about me, yet it was late in the season, July BEE PASTURAGE. 87 25th. On close inspection, I found numerous warty ex- crescences upon the bush, of the size and shape of a hick- ory nut. These proved to he only shells, the inside being lined with thousands of minute insects, a species of aphis. These appeared to be sucking the juices, and discharging a clear transparent fluid. Near the stem was an orifice about an eighth of an inch in diameter, out of which this liquid exuded gradually. So eager were the bees for this secretion, that several of them crowded around one orifice at a time, each endeavoring to thrust the other away. This occurred several years ago, and I have never been able to find any thing like it since, neither have I learned whether it is common in other sections. Within a few years past, a species of aphis has appeared on the grain in many sections, covering the straw in myriads, sucking the juices and secreting at the time a saccharine substance, which is collected by the bees. Cor- respondents from some of the Western States, particularly Wisconsin, write that the bees gather large quantities of this, and that as winter food it proves unhealthy, causing dysentery, etc. I have received numerous applications for a remedy, but as I have not had the least experience, I cannot advise. This secretion being more animal than vegetable, is an unnatural aliment for the bee, and as might be expected, is unhealthy. According to the pre- diction of Dr. Fitch, this race of insects will soon disappear, and our bee-keeping friends may expect better times. I remember hearing it predicted when I was a boy, that a certain winter would " be a bad one for bees," because they were seen obtaining honey dew from hickory leaves. The question arises, Was the effect of an unnatural sub- stance taken by the bees forty years ago, similar to that produced by the secretions from the aphis in later years ? All this does not explain the origin of honey dew, unless we admit two or more sources. Honey dew is found in 88 BEE PASTURAGE. the open field where no tree is standing above to shower it upon leaves below. It is found on leaves, having no traces of the aphis near them. How did it get there ? Did the leaves secrete it ? I am not yet ready to admit this. If leaves produce it, why is it not found in this section ? In passing I have not mentioned garden flowers, because the amount obtained from them, especially ornamental flowers, is inconsiderable, compared to that from forest and field. It is true that the Hollyhock, (Althea rosea), Mallows, (Malva rotundifolia) , Mignonette, {Reseda odoraia), and many others yield honey, but of small ac- count. A person who expects to have his hives filled from such a source, will be very likely to be disappointed, un- less his number of stocks is very limited. We will now notice the flowers that appear after the middle of July. The Button-ball, (Cephalanthus ociden- talis) is much frequented for honey. Also our vines — melons, cucumbers, squashes and pumpkins. The latter are visited only in the morning, and honey is the only thing obtained. Notwithstanding the bee is covered with farina, it is not kneaded into pellets on its legs. I have seen it stated that bees get pollen early in the morning, instead of honey. It is not best to always take our word, about such matters, but examine for yourselves. Take a look some warm mornhig, when the pumpkins are in bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen of which they are in quest. Under some circumstances, clover will continue to bloom through this part of the season, and a few other flowers also, but I find by weighing, a loss from one to six pounds between July 20th and August 10th, at which time Buckwheat usually begins to yield honey, which generally proves a second harvest. BEE PASTURAGE. 89 BUCKWHEAT HONEY. In several counties in this State, so little of this grain is raised, that the " honey can not be found in the hive or boxes. But in many places it is the main dependence, the bees seldom getting more than a winter supply from the early flowers. This honey is considered by many to be of inferior quality. Its color, when separated from the comb, resembles molasses of medium shade. The taste is more pungent than that of clover honey ; it is particularly prized on that account by some, and disliked by others for the same reason. When swarms issuing as late as July 15th, commence on buckwheat, they will sometimes contain not more than five pounds of stores, and yet make good stocks for winter, whereas without this yield, they might not live through October. This crop fails about once in ten years. I have known a swarm to gain sixteen pounds in one week, and construct comb to store it in at the same time. I Once had a swarm issue August 18th, that obtained 30 pounds in about eighteen days. But such buckwheat ' swarms, in ordinary seasons, seldom get over 15 pounds. The buckwheat flowers last from three to five weeks. The time of sowing varies in different sections, from June 10th to July 20th. Farmers wish to give it just time to ripen before frost, as the yield of grain is considered better, but as the time of frost is a matter of uncertainty, some sow several days earlier than others. Whenever an abun- dant crop of this grain is realized, a proportionable quanti- ty of honey is obtained.* DO BEES EST JURE THE GRAIN? Many people contend that bees are an injury to this crop, by taking away the substance that would be formed * A friend informs me that, in 1863, the bees in some parts of Albany Co., N. Y., refused to swarm before buckwheat blossomed, and that between the 1st and 10th of August he had one*hundred swarms. Many of them stored abun dance for winter, and gained considerable surplus ; in some instances, 28 lbs. 90 BEE PASTURAGE. into grain. The best reasons that I have obtained for such an opinion, are these : " I believe it, and have thought so for a long time." " It is reasonable, that if a portion of the plant is taken away by the bees, there must be less material left for the formation of seed, etc." Most of us have learned that a person's opinion is not the strongest kind of proof. Are the above reasons satisfactory ? How are the facts? The flowers open, and honey is secreted. If the bee does not lick it up, it dries up and is wasted. 'Now, what is the difference to the plant, whether the honey is lost in this way, or is collected by the bees ? If there is any difference, the advantage appears to be in favor of collection by the bees, for the reason that it thus answers an important end in the economy of nature, con- sistent with her provisions in ten thousand different ways of adapting means to ends. Most breeders of domestic animals are aware of the degeneration induced by in-and-in breeding, and that a change of breed is necessary for im- provement, etc. Vegetable physiology seems to indicate a similar necessity among plants. The stamens and pistils of flowers answer for the two sexes in animals. The pistil is connected with the ovaries, and the stamens furnish the pollen that must come in contact with the pistil ; in other words, it must be impregnated by this dust from the stamens, or no fruit will be produced. Now, if it be ne- cessary to change the breed, or essential that the pollen produced by the stamens of one flower shall fertilize the pistils of another, to prevent barrenness, what could we contrive better than the arrangement already made by Him who knew the necessity, and planned it accordingly ! And it works so admirably that we can hardly avoid the conclusion that this was an important part of the design in creating bees. Their food consists of honey and pollen ; each flower secretes but a little, jus£ enough to attract the bee, for nothing like a full load is obtained from one ; BEE PASTURAGE. - 91 were it otherwise, the end in view would not be answered. A hundred or more flowers are often visited in one excur- sion, and the pollen obtained from the first may fertilize many others previous to the return of the bee to the hive. By such a cross-fertilizing, a field of buckwheat may be kept in health . and vigor in its future productions. A field of wheat produces long slender stalks that bend to the breeze, and one ear is made to bestow its pollen on an ear several feet distant, thereby effecting just what bees do for buckwheat. Corn, from its manner of growth, the upright stalks bearing the stamens some feet above the pistils on the ears below, seems to need no agency of bees ; the superabundant pollen from the tassel is wafted by the wind several rods from the stalk that produces it, and there does its work of fertilizing the distant ear, as is proved by the mixing of different varieties . at some dis- tance. BEES NECESSARY TO ESTSTIKE A CHOP. But how is it with the vines trailing on the ground, a part of the flowers producing stamens, the others pistils ? It is absolutely essential to produce fruit, that pollen from the staminate flowers shall be introduced into the pistillate ones ; if this fails to occur, the germ will wither and die. In the bee we have an agent ready for the purpose ; both stami- nate and pistillate flowers are visited promiscuously by it, the pollen, not being kneaded into pellets, (particularly that from pumpkins,) adheres to every part of the body, rendering it next to impossible for the bee to enter a pistillate flower without leaving a portion of the fertilizing dust in its pro- per place. Hence it is reasonably inferred by many, that if it were not for this agent among our vines, the uncer- tainty of a crop from non-fertilization, would render their cultivation a useless task. When the aphis is located on the stalk or leaf of a plant, it is furnished with means to 92 BEE PASTURAGE. pierce the surface, and extract the juices essential to its formation, thereby preventing a vigorous growth and full development. ' This idea is too apt to he associated with the bee when it visits the flower, as if it were armed with a spear, to pierce bark or stem, and rob it of its nourish- ment. An examination of the structure of the bee will show us that this cannot be the case. Its slender, brush- like tongue, folded closely under its neck, and seldom seen except when in use, is not fitted to pierce the most delicate substance ; all that it can be used for is to sweep or lick up the nectar as it exudes from the flower ; this is secreted for no other ^purpose, it would seem, than to attract the bee. The most delicate petal receives no injury while the bee is using the instrument nature has provided for obtaining the sweets. During one excursion the bee seldom visits more than a single species of flower ; were it otherwise, and all kinds were visited promiscuously, the fertilizing of one species with the pollen from another, would be quite likely to produce some hybrids among plants. Writers, when noticing this j>eculiarity of instinct, cannot be con- tent, but must add other marvels. They follow this trait still farther, and make the bee store every kind by itself in the hive. TWO KINDS OP POLLEN STOKED IN ONE CELL. With regard to honey it is not easy to ascertain ; but pollen is of different colors, generally yellow, but some- times pale-green, and reddish or dark -brown. I think a little patient inspection will satisfy any one that two kinds are sometimes packed in one cell. I will admit that two colors are seldom found thus, but it is sometimes the case. I have found it thus; and proved this assertion worthless. BEE PASTUEAGE. \)3 NO TEST OF THE PBESENCE OF THE QUEEN. It is asserted that " if a hive loses its queen, no pollen is collected." Also, " that such quantities are sometimes collected, and so many cells are filled, that too little room is left for brood, and the stock rapidly dwindles in conse- quence." The first of these assertions has been offered as a test to determine the presence of a queen. My bees have such a habit of doing wrong, that it is no test what- ever. I think I can explain the mystery of a stock containing an unusual quantity of bee-bread with the honey, and show that instead of this being the cause of a scarcity of bees, it is the effect. Stocks and sometimes swarms lose their queen in the swarming season — (see par- ticulars in chap, x,) when, instead of remaining idle, they collect the usual quantity of pollen and honey. There being no larvse to consume the pollen, the consequence is, more than half the breeding cells will contain it ; they will be packed about two-thirds full, and finished out with honey. I have known large families to be left under such circumstances, and about all the cells hi the hive were thus occupied. Whereas, in a stock containing a queen, and rearing brood, a portion of the combs will be used for this purpose until the flowers fail, when such comb will be found empty. In order to ascertain whether this extra quantity of the bee-bread was so very detrimental, I have introduced into such hive in the fall, a family with a queen, wintered them in it, and watched their prosperity another year, and never found them unprofitable on that account. I am so well satisfied of this that whenever I now have a hive in such a situation, I make it a rule to introduce a colony with queen. It is generally calculated that when medium sized hives .are full, about seven-eighths of the cells are of the proper size for raising workers ; the remainder, except a few de- signed for queens, are of the size for drones. 94 BEE PASTURAGE. BEE BREAD SELDOM PACKED EST DRONE CELLS. Bee bread is generally exclusively packed in the worker cells. I might as well remark here, that when taking combs from a hive filled with honey, if such pieces were selected as contained drone cells, there would be but little risk of finding bee-bread ; the outside sheets, and the upper cor- ners of the others are next best. The sheets of comb used principally for raising workers, and the cells adjoining those used for breeding, for an inch or two in width, are nearly all packed with pollen, and much of it will remain when the breeding season is past. Smaller portions are found in the worker cells in nearly all parts of the hive ; even the boxes will sometimes contain a little. MANNER OF DISCHAKGLNG POLLEN. In a glass hive the bees may be seen depositing their loads of pollen. The legs holding the pellets are thrust into the cell, and a motion like rubbing them together is made for half a minute, when they are withdrawn, and the two little loaves of bread may be seen at the bottom. This bee appears to take no farther care about them, but another will soon come along, enter the cell head first, and pack it close. The cell is filled about two-thirds of its length in this way, and when sealed over, a little honey is used to fill it out. To witness the operation of depositing honey, a glass hive or box is requisite, as the edges of the combs will be attached to the glass. DISCHARGLNG HONEY. "When honey is abundant, most of these half cells next the glass will contain some. The bee goes to the bottom of the cell, deposits a particle of honey, and brushes it in- to the corners or angles with its tongue, carefully exclud- ing all the air. As it is filled, that next the sides of the cells is kept in advance of the centre. This is just as a BSE PASTURAGE. 95 philosopher would say it should be done. If it were filled at once, and no care taken to attach it to the sides, the external air would not keep it in place, as it now does, effectually, Avhen the cell is of ordinary length. When the cell is about one-fourth of an inch deep, they often commence filling it, and as it is lengthened, they continue to add honey, keeping it within an eighth of an inch of the ends, it is never quite full, till nearly sealed over, and often not then. In worker cells the sealing seldom touches the honey. But in drone cells the case is different. The honey on the end touches the sealing about half way up. It is kept in the same concave shape while being filled, but being in a larger cell, the atmospheric pressure is less effectual in keeping it in its place ; consequently, when they commence sealing these cells, they begin on the low- er side, and finish at the top. Yfhen storing honey in boxes, cells of this size are usually much longer, in which case they are crooked, the ends turning upward, some- times half an inch or more. This, of course, will prevent the honey from running, but if the box is taken off, and turned over before such cells are sealed, they are very sure to lose much of their contents. The drone cells of ordinary length, in the breeding department, will hold the honey well enough as long as they remain horizontal, but turn the hive on its side, and bring the open end downward, in hot weather, or break out a piece and hold it in that position, the air will not keep the honey in place, but will do so in the worker cells. S0J1E CELLS CONTAINING HONEY FOE, DAILY USE. . I never examined a hive, fully supplied with bees and honey, in winter or summer, but it had a number of un- sealed cells containing honey, as well as pollen, unless it was destitute of a queen. They will always have some cells open for daily use, even if they have stored a large 96 BEE PASTUKAGE. quantity in boxes, and are so crowded for room as to store honey outside, or under the bottom boards. COMBS CONSTRUCTED AS NEEDED. YouDg swarms seem unwilling to construct combs faster than needed for use. This would appear, at first thought, to be a lack of economy. When no honey is obtained, and there is nothing to do, it would seem to. be well to get ready for a yield, but this is not their way of doing business. Whether they can not spare the honey already collected to elaborate the wax, or whether they find it more difficult to keep the worms from a large quantity of comb, I shall not presume to decide. If honey is abun- dant, large swarms, when first located, will extend their combs from top to bottom in a little more than two weeks, but such hive is not yet full. Some sheets of comb may contain honey throughout their entire length, and not a ' cell be sealed over, but the bees generally find time to finish up to within a few inches of the lower end as they proceed. Whenever unfinished cells contain honey, it will generally be removed soon after the flowers fail, and used before that which is sealed, and the cells will remain empty till another year. BEST SEASON FOB HONEY. The inquiry is often made, " Which is best for bees, a wet or dry season?" I have studied this point very closely, and have found that a medium between the two extremes produces the most honey. When farmers begin to express fears of a drought, then is the time, if in the season of flowers, that most honey is usually obtained, but if dry weather is much protracted, the quantity is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, a very wet season is perhaps the worst. BEE PASTUKAGE. 97 HOW MANY STOCKS MAY BE KEPT. " What number of stocks can he kept in one place?" Is a question so often asked that it indicates an unusual in- terest in the subject. I shall differ more in opinion here, with some of our best authors, than on most other points. Mr. Langstroth expresses himself very confidently that over-stocking has never happened in this country, and that there is no prospect of it. He gives us, on the au- thority of Mr. Wagner, the number of stocks to the; square mile in many sections of Europe. I will give one or two items. " In the Kingdom of Hanover, 141 stocks, are estimated to the square mile." " In the Province of Atica, in Greece, containing 45 square miles, 20,000 hives are kept." " A Province in Holland contains 2000 colon- ies per square mile." The honey yielded from the flowers in this section, (Montgomery Co., 1ST. Y.,) in 1863 would have supported but a small part of that number, through the season. As it was, we had too few and too many. Let me explain. From about the 15th to the 30th of June, clover yielded honey, and the bees seemed to improve the time, indus- triously storing the usual quantity. I presume that dumio this period, thrice the number would have done equally well. Those who have recommended keeping such large numbers must have had such a yield as this in view. In Europe, where so many are reported to be kept, it must be thus throughout the season. But with us, after the latter date, but few plants produced honey ; even Bass- wood seemed to yield but little. A few plants, such as catnip, motherwort, and silkweed, furnished enough to have kept a half dozen colonies in thriving condition, but when this amount was divided among hundreds, there was not enough to keep all alive. When buckwheat blossom- ed, there was perhaps enough for half a dozen hives to the square mile, and this number might have shown results 5 98 BEE PASTUKAGE. equal to those in Albany Co.,— 50 pounds to a colony — as the flowers appeared to yield abundantly, each hive ob- taining five or six pounds. Is it not evident that we were overstocked after July 1st? The summer of '64 gave a bounteous yield of honey until July 10th, when the supply was diminished, probably by drought. I say probably, because we can not always tell to what cause to attribute the greater or less abundance of the supply. Before said date, any number of colonies, apparently, would have done well, but since that time, one-tenth of the actual number kept would have collected the whole yield. Yet it was jDrofitable to keep about fifteen to the square mile. It will always be impossible to know exactly how many can be kept; some seasons produce bounteously, others, a partial supply, and some almost none at all. As it is difficult to tell beforehand what to expect, it is well to exercise some caution. Whoever begins with excessive numbers, must expect sometime to be overtaken with serious disaster. The sight of a hundred or two colonies, actually starving in December, is rather unpleasant to a sensitive mind. One must lay up a store of fortitude, in prosperous times, to last him through such seasons of discouragement. It is an advantage to keep as large a number as will possibly do well in one yard. They may be taken care oi with much less proportional expense. It would not do to hire a man to take charge of every eight or ten hives, al- though the average profit of the few would be much greater than with a large number. One man can take care of 200 stocks, especially if he uses the movable comb hive, and the reduction in the expense would more than balance the larger profits from the smaller apiaries. I would not advise keeping very large apiaries, until war- ranted by experience in their care. Also the resources of a country should be gradually tested. A honey-producing country may be like a grazing region. One field may BEE PASTURAGE. 99 pasture ten times as many cattle as another, and the same difference may be true of pasturage for bees. PKESTCrPAL SOtTKCES OF HONEY. There are three principal sources of honey, viz : clover, buckwheat and basswood. Clover is the only universal dependence, as that is found almost everywhere, in greater or less profusion. Buckwheat is the main source in some places. Basswood is of brief duration, but comes in very opportunely where it abounds, just as clover begins to fail, and before buckwheat appears. Where all these are abundant, there is the true Eldorado of the apiarian. Yet to find a place where there is .a great plenty of both clover and buckwheat is very difficult. I have failed after a long and patient search. I find clover, without buckwheat, in satisfactory abundance. But when I begin to find buck- wheat, clover correspondingly diminishes. Where buck- wheat is a universal crop, but little of the surplus honey is clover, as in the counties of Greene and most of Albany. The question is asked: "What section of country is best for keeping bees ?" It is difficult to answer. In clover regions the superior quality and enormous crops of honey in some seasons will give very desirable results, but when an occasional failure occurs, it is disastrous in the extreme. In buckwheat sections, there is never a great yield of clo- ver, but seldom a failure in buckwheat honey. If the first yield fails, the last usually supplies the defi- ciency, and all strong colonies will .generally have sufficient winter stores. I have now been speaking of large apiaries. A section can hardly be found where man can live, where a few stocks would not thrive, even if no dependence could be placed on the prominent sources just mentioned. There will be some honey-yielding flowers in nearly all places. 100 THE API ART. DISTANCE THAT A BEE WILL, GO FOR HONEY. Another question of interest is concerning the distance a bee will travel in search of honey. It is evident that it will be farther than for purposes of plunder. I have heard of their being found seven miles from home. It was said to be ascertained by sprinkling flour on them as they left the hive in the morning, and discovering the bees thus marked at that distance from home. When we consider the chances of finding a bee, even one mile from the hive, this ap- pears rather dubious ; and likewise, pollen, the color of flour, might deceive a casual observer, or one who had a case to sustain. It is difficult to prove that they go three miles. I think from present evidence that they do not go farther. The queens and drones, situated that distance apart do sometimes meet, as is proved by black queens producing hybrids, but whether one travels the whole distance, or they meet each other halfway, is not certain. I have my yards from two and a half to five miles apart. The largest apiaries should be separated, at least, four miles. CHAPTER V. THE APIARY LOCATION. One important consideration, in the location of an apiary, is in regard to convenience for watching in the swarming season. If much trouble has to be taken, it is too often neglected. Unless the apiary is large, watching need not occupy one's whole time, but it may be done in connection with some other employment, and it is desirable to have the hives located with reference to this. Although the THE APIARY. 101 movable combs may be used, and each stock divided as it is filled, and no swarms expected, yet one will occasionally issue, making some attention necessary. If possible, the hives should stand where the wind will have but little ef- fect, especially from the north west. If no hiUs or build- ings offer a protection, a close high board fence should be put up for the purpose. The saving of bees will pay the expense. During the first spring months, the stocks con- tain fewer bees than at any other season. It is then that a large family is important, to keep the brood warm. One bee is of more consequence then than a dozen in mid- summer. When the hive stands in a bleak place, the bees returning with heavy loads, in a high wind, are frequently unable to strike the hive, are blown to the ground, and become chilled and die. A chilly south wind is equally fatal, but not so frequent. When protected from winds, the hives may front as you choose ; east or south is generally preferred. A location near ponds, lakes, large streams, etc., involves some loss. Hard w r inds fatigue the bees when on the wing, often causing them to alight in the wa- ter, whence it is impossible to rise again until wafted ashore, and then, unless in very warm weather, they are so chilled as to be past recovery. I do not mention this to discourage any one from keeping them, when so situat- ed, because some must keep them thus, or not at all. Although we can not miss a few lost from each stock, it is nevertheless a loss as far as it goes. Whatever location is chosen, it should be decided upon as early in the spring as possible, because when the chil- ling winds of winter have ceased for a day, and the sun, unobstructed, is sending his first warm rays upon the frozen earth, the bees that have been inactive for months, feel the cheering influence, and come forth to enjoy the balmy air. 102 THE APIARY. LOCATION MAKEED. As they come from tlieir door, they pause a moment, as if to rub their eyes, which have been so long obscured in darkness. They rise on the wing, but instead of leaving in a direct line, immediately turn their heads towards the entrance of their tenement, describing a circle of a few inches at first, but larger as they recede, until an area of several rods has been viewed and marked. ; SHOULD NOT BE MOVED. After a few excursions, and surrounding objects have became familiar, this precaution is not taken, and they leave in a direct line for their destination, and return by their way -marks without difficulty. Man, with his reason, is guided in the same manner. There are a great many people who suppose the bee knows its hive by a kind of instinct, or is attracted towards it, like the steel to the magnet. At least they act as if they thought so, as they often move their bees a few feet or rods, after the location is thus marked, and what is the consequence ? The stocks are materially injured, and sometimes entirely ruined by loss of bees. Let us notice the cause. As I have stated, the bees have marked the location. They leave the hive without any precaution, as surrounding objects are famil- iar. They return to their old stand and find no home. If there is more than one stock, and their own has been removed from four to twenty feet, some of the bees may find a hive, but are just as liable to enter the wrong one as the right. Probably they would not go over twenty feet, and very likely not that, unless the new situation was very conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, the loss would probably be less,' as every bee finding a hive, would be sure to be right, and none would be killed, as is generally the case, when a few enter a strange hive. Sometimes a stock will allow strange bees to unite with THE APIAKT. 103 them, but it is seldom, unless a large number enters. When bees are taken beyond their knowledge of coun- try, some two miles or more, the result is somewhat different, but not always without loss, especially if many hives are set too. closely together. They leave the hive, of course, without knowing that the situation has been changed ; and perhaps get a few feet from it, before strange objects inform them of the fact. When they return, the immediate vicinity is strange, and they often enter their neighbor's domiciles. Experience has satisfied me that stocks should occupy their situation for the summer, as early as possible in the spring, at least before they mark the location ; or, if they must be moved after that, let it be not less than a mile and a half, withplenty of room beticeen the stands. SPACE BETWEEN STANDS. Regarding the distance between hives generally, I would say, let it be as great as convenience will allow. Want of room sometimes makes it necessary to set them closer. Where such necessity exists, if the hives were dissimilar in color, some dark, others light, alternately, it would greatly assist the bees in recognizing their own hive. But it should be borne in mind, that whenever economy of space dictates less than two feet, there are of- ten bees enough lost by entering the wrong hives, to pay the rent of a small addition to a bee-yard. I have several other reasons for recommending plenty of room between hives, which will be mentioned hereafter. SMALL MATTERS. The reader who is accustomed to do things on a large scale, will consider so much attention to such a small matter, rather unnecessary, but attention to little things insures success. A grain of wheat is insignificant in itself — it is 104 THE APIARY. only in the aggregate that its importance is manifest. The bee is small, the load of honey brought home by it, is still less, and the quantity secreted in the nectary of each flower, still more minute. The patient bee obtains but a tiny drop from each, but by perseverance, procures a load and de- posits it in the hive. It is only in the accumulation of such that we find an object worthy of our notice. "We are thus taught to look to little things, and the manner in which they are multiplied and preserved. It is much better to save our bees, than to waste them, and wait for others to be raised. " A penny saved is two pence earned." If a stock is lost by a little neglect, a corresponding effort is only necessary to save it. This trifling attention is some- times neglected through indolence. But I hope for better things generally. I am willing to believe that it is through ignorance of the kind of care necessary, and how, when, and where to bestow it. It seems to be my duty to state the cause of such losses ; therefore make it a rule to have stands, bee-houses, etc., ready in spring before the bees leave the hives, and let them remain stationary during the summer. If we keep bees for ornament, it would be well to build bee-houses, paint the hives, etc.; but as I suspect that the majority of readers will be chiefly interested in the profits, I assure them that the bees will not pay a cent towards extra expenses ; they will not do any more labor in a paint- ed house, than if it were thatched with straw. When profit is the only object, economy would dictate that labor be bestowed only where there is a reasonable prospect of remuneration. CHEAP STAND. So many kinds of bee-houses and stands have been re- commended, all so different from what I prefer, that I perhaps ought to feel some hesitancy in offering one so THE APIARY. 105 cheap and simple ; but as profit is my object, I shall offer no apology. I have thirty years experience to prove its efficacy, and have no fears in recommending it. I make stands in this way. For a box hive, a board about fifteen inches wide is cut off two feet long ; a piece of durable wood two by three inches, is nailed on each end. This raises the board just three inches from the earth, and will project in front of the hive some ten inches, making it ad- mirably convenient for the bees to alight before entering the hive, when the grass and weeds are kept down, which is but little trouble. A separate stand for each hive is better than to have several on a bench together, as there can then be no communication by the bees running to and fro. Also, we are apt to give more room between them ; and a board or plank will make more stands when cut in pieces, than if left whole. I used what is termed a canal bottom board, until I found that it did not pay expenses, hence I rejected it, and succeed just as well. It is generally recommended to prevent robbing, and keep out the moth. It may prevent one hive in fifty from being robbed, but as for keeping out the moth, it is about as good a contrivance in its favor, as need be. I am aware that I differ from most apiarians, in placing the stand so near the earth ; less than two or three feet between the bees and the earth, it is said, will not an- swer any way. I shall not urge the adoption of any rule that I have not tested by my own practice. The objec- tion raised, is the dampness arising from the earth, but I am unable to discover the least bad effect from this cause. DISADVANTAGE OF STANDING TOO HIGH. Let us compare advantages and disadvantages a little farther. When the bees approach a hive suspended, or standing on a high bench, two or three feet from the earth, towards evening or on a chilly afternoon — and we have 5* 106 THE API ART. many such, in spring — even if there is not much wind, they are very apt to miss the hive and fall to the ground, so benumbed with cold, as to be unable to rise again, and by the next morning are lifeless. On the other hand, if the hive is near the earth, with a board as described, there is no possibility of their alighting under it, and if they should fail to reach it, and fall to the -ground, they can always creep long after they are too cold to fly, and are thus often able to enter the hive, when they can not use their wings. In this way, enough may be saved in one spring, from a few hives, to make a good swarm. Belonging to different hives, the loss is not perceived, yet as much profit might be realized from them, as if they formed an indi- vidual swarm. To such as will have them away from the earth, I would say, do adopt some plan to save this por- tion of your best and most willing servants. Have an alighting board project at least one foot in front of the hive, or a board long enough to reach from the bottom of the hive to the ground, upon which they may crawl up to the hive. Do you want an inducement ? Examine care- fully the earth about your hives, towards sunset, some fair but windy day in April, when it is chilly towards night, and you will be astonished at the number that per- ish. Most of them will be loaded with pollen, proving them martyrs to their own industry and your negligence. When I see a bench three feet high, and no wider than the bottom of the hive, and no entrance for the bees, except at the bottom, and as many hives crowded on it as it will hold, I no longer wonder that "bee-keeping is all in luck ;" the wonder is how they keep them at all. Yet it proves that, with proper management, bee-keeping is not so precarious, after all. THE APIARY. 10T BEST COVER. I have taken some pains to ascertain the best protection for hives, from the weather, and have concluded that the cheapest covering is as good as any ; any thing that will keep the sun and rain from the top, is sufficient. Covers for each hive, like the bottom board, should be separate, and some larger than the top. BEE-HOUSE UNPROFITABLE. I have used bee-houses, but they will not pay, and I have discarded them. They are objectionable on account of preventing a free circulation of air ; also, it is difficult to construct them so that the sun may strike the hives both in the morning and afternoon, which is quite essen- tial. If they front the south, the middle of the day is the only time when the sun can reach ail the hives at once ; this is just when they need it least, and in hot weather the combs are sometimes injured by melting. But when the hives stand far enough apart, on separate stands, it is very easy to arrange them to stand in the sun, morning and afternoon, and be shaded four or five hours in the middle of the day. We are often quite prodigal in building a splendid bee- house, but we think of economy when we come to put our hives in, and are quite sure to pack them too closely. SOME WILL HAVE THEM. Notwithstanding the objections here urged against bee- houses, there will be a few, who, if they keep bees at all, must have them in a house. We will see how far they can be accommodated without seriously diminishing their profits. A bee-house, without any pretension to ornament, generally combines the desired consideration with econo- my. It is usually straight, and contains but one row of hives. A second and even a third is sometimes added. 108 THE APIARY. but when the inconvenience of access to the tipper row is considered, together with the disadvantage to the bees, it will confine most economists to the single row. The cheapest form is made by setting posts firmly into the ground, six or eight feet apart, three or four feet from front to rear, and five or six feet high. Cut those on the back enough shorter to give a good pitch to the roof, which may be of boards or shingles. Ten or twelve inches from the ground — not more than that — nail or cut in a shoulder, to support a framework of joists, upon which Fig. 14. — bee house. the stands are to be placed. Lay boards the width of the hive or a little more, cross-wise the frame work, and set the hive on the back end. I consider separate stands, with spaces between, a better arrangement than the plank running lengthwise, as the THE APIARY. 109 bees can not run from one hive to the other to gossip. The distance between the hives can be easily regulated ; it should be from one to four feet, according to circumstances. HTVES SHOULD BE OP DIFFERENT COLOKS. The hives should be of different, but not glaring colors. As a bee is guided to the entrance of its home by outside appearances, it is well to altei'nafce the colors when arrang- ing the hives. After the first few days in spring, the workers have but little difficulty. The first day they issue, they seem to settle indiscriminately on the hives to rest, and are often worried and killed. The young bees as they hatch and come out, during the season, either know their own home better, or if they make any such mistakes, are noticed less in the hurry of labor. But the young queen often enters the wrong hive on her return from her excur- sion, and this uniformly involves the loss of her colony. This is the chief objection to the bee-house. REPLACING QUEENS. By using the movable comb hive, and rearing queens ar- tificially, (as the Italian queens are usually raised,) and furnishing laying queens, — thus obviating the necessity of the young queens leaving the hive — this difficulty is avoid- ed. If you think proper, you may allow the bees to swarm, and at the end of a week, look over the combs of the old hive, cut out all queen cells, and introduce a laying queen. The after swarms are thus prevented, and the colony is matur- ing brood nearly two weeks sooner than if they had reared a queen, which is equivalent to a small swarm. Likewise, they will probably be in condition to store surplus, or to part with another good swarm, when they might not have done either, if let alone. This will do much towards bal- ancing the disadvantage of a bee-house. Should you choose to divide — making artificial swarms — the hives 110 THE APIARY. should be set far enough apart, atjirst, to allow room for other hives between them. Whenever a colony is suf- ficiently strong to divide, one half the combs may be put into the new hive, as in making artificial swarms. In a week, cut out cells, and introduce the laying queen. It will be important to keep a few queens on hand, in case any should unexpectedly swarm ; or rather you should expect some to do so, a little before you are ready to di- vide. The advantages of having laying queens always ready, amply repays all trouble in rearing. I would sug- gest that the movable comb hives only, are used for this kind of bee-house, as it is evident that the box hive can kfW' Fig. 15.— BEE HOUSE. not be so easily managed. When such a hive swarms, we often can not remove all the queen cells ; the bees would be obliged to raise their own queens, and would be likely to swarm several times. Also, the queen left in the old hive, and those with the after swarms, Avould be likely to be lost. THE APIARY SEVERAL BEE-HOUSES. Ill If one uses nothing but the box hive, and must have bee- houses, it would be better to make several small ones, Fig. 16. — BEE HOUSE. holding but three hives, fronting in three different direc- tions, as in fig. 15. Let it be closely boarded on the north 112 THE APIARY. side, or so as to break off the prevailing wind, with a roof over the whole. It will be seen that the three hives set very compactly, yet the entrances are some distance apart, and so dissimi- lar that the young queens would seldom make a mistake in entering. In a place where there is little or no wind, a hive may be added on the fourth side. Such bee-houses, tastefully built, would be quite ornamental. A hexagonal shape might be a little more graceful, yet it would increase the liability of losing the queens. For a more elaborate style, an octagon would be suitable, to which a second story might be added, giving room for sixteen hives, as seen in fig. 16, on the preceding page. In grounds where the bees would annoy the family, or visitors, they may be surrounded by a hedge of shrubbery or vines. Enclose a plot of the desired area, of any shape the fancy may dictate. Should a circle be chosen, I can easily imagine that a small, slender tree in the centre, would greatly assist the bees in finding the hives. The hedge may be evergreens, vines, or any small shrub of suitable growth. Grape vines are very appropriate, being of quick growth, and combining ornament with profit. Openings should be left at proper distances for the hives, which should be set in such a manner that the front is on the inside, and the body of the hive on the outside of the hedge. The hedge should be dense, but as narrow as possible. One arrangement is shown in fig. 17. Operations with the hives qan be performed on the out- side, thus avoiding the attacks of the bees at work, which are more liable to be troublesome than those which leave the hive when it is opened. This hedge can be trained in an arch over the top of the hives, but should not be allowed to attain any great height, compelling the bees to rise over it. The fronts of the hives should be of different colors, as before mentioned, but the color of the other ROBBING. H3 parts may "be uniform, if desired. Proper openings should be left for the operator to pass within, when necessary. Fig. 17. — HIVES ARRANGED IN A HEDGE. Those who consider the appearance of the hive unsightly, may set an outer hedge, a few feet from the first, which will effectually screen them from observation. CHAPTER VI. ROBBING. NOT UNDERSTOOD. Robbing is often a source of loss to the careless apiarian. It is frequent in spring, and at any time in warm weather, when there is a scarcity of honey. It is very annoying, and is sometimes a source of contention among neighbors, 114 EOBBEN-Q. when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than for igno- rance. The person keeping the most bees, must expect to be held accountable for all the losses in the neighborhood, whether they occur from mismanagement, or want of management, and if he escapes without being charged with those lost by hundreds of other causes, he ought to be thankful. It is often thought if a person has but one stock, and another has ten, that the ten will combine to plunder the one. This conclusion is not warranted by facts. I can discover no collusion between different families of the same apiary. It is true that when one col- ony finds another weak and defenceless, possessing treasures, they have no conscientious scruples about carrying off the last particle, notwithstanding they revel in abundance at home ; and it is most frequently the case that the strong- est colonies are most given to this despicable habit. The hurry and bustle attending the plunder, seldom escapes the notice of other hives, and when one hive in the yard has been robbed, perhaps two-thirds or all of the others have participated in the offense. It is common to hear remarks like this, " I had a first rate hive of bees," (when, in fact, he had not looked at them, particularly, for a month, and knew nothing or their real condition) — " and Mr. A's bees began to rob them." I tried every thing to stop it ; moved them sev- eral times to prevent their finding the hive, but it did no good ; the first I knew they were all gone — bees, honey and all ! The bees all joined the robbers." Now, the fact is, that not one good colony in fifty will ever be robbed, if let alone ; that is, if the entrance is properly protected. Moving the hive was enough to ruin it ; bees were lost at every change, until nothing Avas left but honey to tempt the robbers ; whereas, if left on its stand, it might have escaped. The injury done by robbers is sometimes like that done ROBBING. 115 by worms, and usually following some preceding weakness of the colony. Not one strong colony in a hundred will be attacked and plundered at the first onset. DIFFICULTY IN DECIDING. Probably but few bee-keepers are able to decide at once when bees are robbing. It requires the closest scrutiny to decide. There is nothing about the apiary more difficult to determine ; nothing in which one is more likely to be deceived. It is generally supposed, when a number are fighting outside, that it is conclusive that they are also robbing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary, a show of resistance indicates a strong colony, and that they are disposed to defend their treasures. A very weak colony of Italians will often make a spirited resistance. I have no fears for a stock that has courage to repel an attack. The greatest dano-er is with those weak colonies incapable of opposition. In seasons of scarcity, all good stocks maintain sentinels about the entrance, whose duty it appears to be to examine every bee that attempts to enter. If it is a member of the community, it is allowed to pass ; if not, it is arrested on the spot. It would seem that a password was requisite for admittance, for no soon- er does a stranger endeavor to enter, than it is known. The absence of pi'oper credentials is evidence enough to convict it. Each bee is a qualified jurist, judge, and exe- cutioner. There is no delay, no waiting for witnesses for the defence. The more a bee attempts to escape, unless it is by chance successful, the more certain is the execution of the sentence. How strange bees are known to be such, is yet undetermined, probably by the scent. WEAK COLONIES IN DANGER. It is the duty of every bee-keeper who expects to suc- ceed, to know which his weak stocks are. An exaniina- 116 ROBBING. tion cart Ibe made on some cool morning, by turning the hive bottom up, and allowing the sun to shine among the combs. The number of inhabitants is thus easily seen. When weak, close the entrance till there ks just room for one bee to pass at once. WHEN TO LOOK OUT FOR ROBBERS. A little after noon, on the first pleasant day, at any time before honey is obtained plentifully, look out for robbers. To get to robbing, bees must be first tempted, and render- ed furious. A dish of refuse honey left near them is some- times sufficient to set them at work ; also an insufficient supply, when fed. After they have once commenced, it takes an astonishing quantity to satiate their appetite. They seem to be perfectly intoxicated, and reckless of danger, venturing into certain destruction. I have known a few instances where good colonies were so reduced by fighting while robbing, that they in turn fell a prey to similar marauders. I have for several years kept hundreds of stocks away from home, where I could seldom see them. Yet I seldom lose a stock by robbing. I simply keep the entrance closed, leaving, during spring, a passage for the bees at work. It is true, I have lost a few, when the other bees took the honey, but they would have been lost in any case. A great many apiarians raise their hives an inch from the board, early in spring. They seem to disregard the op- portunity it gives robbers to enter on every side. It is like setting the door of your dwelling open, to tempt the thief, and then complaining of the consequences. Let it be understood, then, that all good stocks, under ordinary circumstances, will take care of themselves. Nature has provided means of defence, with instinct to direct its use. Non-resistance may do for highly cultivat- ed intellect in man, but not here. There is a prevalent ROBBING. 117 opinion that robbers often go to a neighboring hive, kill off the bees first, and then take possession of the spoils. I have never yet discovered one fact to corroborate this, although I have watched very closely. Whenever bees have lost all their stores, at a period when nothing was to. be obtained from flowers, it is evident that they must soon starve, and disappear in a few clays. This would naturally give rise to the supposition that they had been killed by the robbers. FIRST INDICATION. I will now describe the appearance of a weak hive that is being robbed, and show, that without timely interfer- ence, the result will be a total loss to the colony. Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in a direct line to its home, will turn its head towards the hive to mark the spot, that it may return for another load, in the same manner that they do when leaving their own hive for the first time in the spring. The first time the young- bees leave home, they mark their location by the same process. A few of these begin to hatch very early, in all good stocks, often before the weather is warm enough for any to leave the hive. These young bees will fly out very thickly about the middle of each fair day, or a little later, called " playing," by some writers. This unusual activity strongly resembles the bustle of robbers, and it is difficult to detect the difference. Their motions are alike, but there is a little difference in color, the young bees being a shade fighter ; and the abdomen of the robbers, when filled with honey, is a little larger. But while you are learning these nice distinctions, your bees may be ruined. I will therefore give additional means of ascertaining. Bees, when they have been stealing a sack of honey from a neighboring hive, will generally run several inches from the entrance before flying ; kill some of these ; if filled 118 BOBBING. with honey, they are robbers ; for it is very suspicious to be filled with honey when leaving the hive ; or sprinkle some flour on them as they come out, and let some one watch by the other hives to see if they enter. The follow- ing is less trouble, but it will be longer before they are checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the course of half an hour or more, after the young bees have returned, and if the bustle continues or increases, it is time to interfere. When the entrance has been contracted, as directed, close it entirely, till near sunset. If it has been left open, it should now be closed, giving room for only one bee at a time. This will allow all that belong to the hive to get in, and others to get out, and will materially retard the pro- gress of the robbers. Unless it should be cool, they will continue their operations till evening. Very often some are unable to get home in the dark, and are lost. This, by the way, is another good test of robbing. Visit the hives every warm evening. They commence depredations on the warmest days, seldom at any other time. If any are at work when honest laborers should be at home, they should be regarded with suspicion. • REMEDIES. A great many remedies for this evil have been recom- mended, which are as bad as the evil itself, and often the cause of it. The most fatal is to move the hive a few rods ; another, to entirely close it, which may smother the bees ; or to break out some comb in the hives of the robbers, and set the honey to running, thereby giving them work at home. I would recommend removing the weak hive, on the morning after the attack, to the cellar, or some dark, cool place, until two or three warm days have passed, and the search has been abandoned. The robbers will proba- bly attack the stock on the next stand. Contract the en- trance of this according: to the number of bees that are to ROBBING. 119 pass. If strong, no danger need be apprehended ; they may fight and even kill some ; perhaps a little chastise- ment is necessary to bring them to a sense of their duty. When a hive has been removed, if the one on the next stand is weak, it is better to take that in also, to be returned as soon as the robbers will allow it. If a second attack is made, put them in again, or if practicable, remove them a mile or two, out of their knowledge of country ; they would then lose no time from labor. Where but few hives are kept, and not more than one or two are engaged, sprinkle a little flour on the bees as they leave, to ascer- tain which hive they are from ; then reverse their position, putting the robbed in the place of the robbing, and the reverse. The weak hive will generally become the strong- est, and put a stop to their operations. But this method is impracticable in a large apiary, because several stocks are usually engaged very soon after one begins, and a dozen may be robbing one. Another method is, when you are sure a stock is being robbed, to close the hive at a time when there as many plunderers inside as possible, (wire-cloth, or something that will admit air, and confine the bees, is necessary,) and carry in as before directed, for two or three days, when they may be set out again. The strange bees thus enclosed will join the weak family, and will be as eager to defend what is now their treasure, as they were before to carry it off. This principle of forget- ting home, and uniting with others, after a lapse of a few days, can be Avisely acted upon in this case. It succeeds about four times in five, when a proper number is enclos- ed. Weak families are very easily strengthened in this way, and the bees, being taken from a number of hives, are scarcely missed elsewhere. The difficulty is, to secure about as many as belong to the weak hive ; if too few are enclosed, they are apt to be destroyed. As I remarked in the beginning of the chapter, bees will plunder and fight 120 ROBBING. at any time through the summer when honey can not be collected ; hut spring is the only time in which such des- perate and persevering efforts are made to obtain it. At no other time can the apiarian be excused for having his hives plundered, or allowing them to be liable to such invasions. Families reduced in winter and spring, will, if ' protected through this season, generally make good stocks. Prevention is better than cure ; evil propensities should be checked in the bud. It would probably be the least trouble, when practicable, to remove the weak hive to some neighbor, a mile or two away, where there are no strong ones to molest it ; and return it after the honey season arrives. The apiarian who allows his hives to be plundered in the fall, is not fit to have charge of them ; the efforts of the robbers are seldom as vigorous as in spring, (unless there is a general scarcity,) the weak hives are usually better supplied with bees, and consequently a less number is exposed. When there are some very weak families, they should be disposed of as soon as the flowers fail. Partic- ulars given in Fall Management. EQUALIZATION. I have sometimes equalized the strength of my hives, early in spring, by the following method. Bees, when wintered together in a room, will seldom quarrel when first put out. When one hive has an over supply of bees, and another a very few, the next day after being set out, I change the weak one to the stand of the strong one, (as before mentioned), and all bees that have marked the loca- tion, will return to that place. This often fails for the reason that too many bees leave the strong hive, making that the weak one, and nothing is gained. If it could be done when they had been out of winter quarters just long enough for the proper number to have marked the loca- BOBBING. 121 tion, success would be quite certain. But before an exchange of this kind is made, it would be well, if possible, to ascertain the cause of a stock being weak ; if it arises from the loss of a queen, we only make the matter worse by this operation. BATTLES. I will describe some of their battles, or what are called battles, as it is seldom that a regular battle occurs, in which both parties make a deadly effort to destroy the other. Two queens will meet thus, and occasionally two workers. Bees fight to repel invaders, but I have little faith that they make war on a neighboring colony for the mere sake of fighting. When bees first fly out in spring, some will settle on a neighboring hive, if they are close together, but as soon as one alights, it is surrounded, the whole front of the hive being sometimes covered in this way. A half dozen will attack one stranger, two or three biting its legs, one pulling it by the wing, another perched on its back making a feint of stinging, while another is ready to take what honey it has, when it has been worried suffi- ciently to give it up. It is sometimes let go, after it has yielded all its honey, but is often dispatched by a sting, which is almost instantly fatal. A bee is killed by a sting- sooner than by any other means, except crushing. When strange bees enter a hive, which sometimes part of a re- turning swarm will do, I have known a few thousands to be killed in five minutes. The joints are the only vulnera- ble parts of a bee. During the fight, if the object be to repel pillagers, a few bees may be seen buzzing around in search of an unguarded place to enter the hive. If such is found, it alights and enters in a moment. At other times, it meets a sentinel on duty, and is on the wing again, in an instant. It is occasionally more unfortunate, and is seized by the guard, when it must either break 6 122 FEEDING. away, or suffer the penalty of insect justice, which is gen- erally ''■ to the utmost extent of the law." CHAPTER VII. FEEDING. FEEDING A LAST RESORT. Feeding bees is sometimes quite necessary. But in ordinary seasons and circumstances it is very doubtful policy for the apiarian to attempt to winter many stocks So poorly supplied with honey, that they will need feeding before spring. Nothing is more common than for inex- perienced persons to undertake to winter every hive con- taining bees, and the more ignorant they are of the business, the more poor hives they will endeavor to keep. There are circumstances under which it may be proper to feed colonies in the fall. In the chapter on Fall Manage- ment, I will give directions for disposing of such as should not be fed. It pays better to feed in spring than at any other season, and there are more that need it then. Some families having had light stores at the beginning of winter have consumed about all. Some stocks, when brought from their winter quarters, mix badly with others, and occasionally most of the bees leave their own hive, and join other stocks. Those left may not be able to defend their stores, and will be robbed. I have known a few instances where there was every requisite for a good stock, and yet they were so imbecile that they would not defend themselves, and allowed every particle to be taken from them. Although there is a strong temptation to let such starve, as a punishment for want of energy, it usually pays to feed them. Bees may FEEDING. 123 also be fed at this season to promote early swarming and storing of surplus honey. In feeding, the utmost care is requisite, and but few know how to manage it properly. Honey fed to bees, is almost certain to excite quarreling. Strong colonies sometimes scent the honey given to weak ones, and carry it off as fast as supplied. It is possible that feeding a stock of bees in spring, may cause them to starve ; where- as, if let alone, they would survive. Notwithstanding this seems contradictory, it may be made to appear reasonable. Whenever the supply of honey is deficient, probably not more than one egg in twenty will be matured, their means not allowing the brood to be fed. In veiy small colonies the queen usually confines herself to a small area of comb, often depositing several eggs in one cell, but if the supply of honey is increased, she will extend her labors over a greater space. Suppose we give such a stock two or three pounds of honey, encouraging them to feed a large brood, and the supply fails before they are half grown. "What are they to do ? Destroy the brood and lose all they have fed, or draw on their old stores, and trust to chance for themselves ? The latter alternative will probably be adopted, and then without timely intervention of favorable weather, the bees will starve. The same effect is some- times produced by the changes of the weather. A week or two may be very fine and bring out the flowers in abundance, and a sudden change, perhaps frost, may cut them all off. This makes it necessary to exercise consid- erable vigilance, as these spells of cold weather make it unsafe to neglect them, till white clover appears, (10th or 15th of June in this section) but if the spring is favorable, there is but little danger, unless they are robbed as fed. If the necessary care be taken about moth-worms, the 124 FEEDING. light hives can be distinguished. This is another advan- tage of the simple hive ; by merely raising one edge to destroy worms, we learn something about the quantity of honey on hand. To be very exact, the hive should be weighed when ready for the bees, and the weight marked on it ; by weighing at any time after, we can ascertain pretty nearly the amount of honey. Some allowance must be made for the age of the combs, quantity of brood, etc. It is wrong to begin to feed without being prepared to continue, as the supply must be kept up until honey is abundant. DESTITUTE COLONIES SOMETIMES DESERT. When one has the means to continue feeding, and time requisite to make it secure, perhaps it would not be ad- visable to wait till the last extremity before feeding, as a small family will sometimes entirely desert the hive, when destitute, especially if they have but little brood. In these cases, they issue precisely as a swarm ; after flying a long time, they either return or unite with some other stock, but seldom cluster. If they return, they need attention immediately, and we may be certain there is something wrong, let the desertion take place when it may. In spring, the cause may be destitution, or mouldy combs ; at other times, the presence of worms, diseased brood, etc. But whatever the cause, ascertain it, and apply the remedy. WHEN THEY MUST BE FED. If it is wished to wait as long as possible before feeding, a test will be necessary to decide how long it will do to delay it. Strict attention must be given ; they will need examination every morning. If a light tap on the hive is answered by a lively buzzing, they are not suffering yet ; but if no answer is made to this inquiry, it indicates weak- ness. Extreme destitution takes away all disposition to FEEDING. 125 repel an attack. Sometimes a part of the bees will be too weak to remain among the combs, and will be seen lying on the bottom, while a few will be outside. If the weather is cool, they will be apparently lifeless ; yet they can be revived, and now must be fed. Those among the combs may be able to move, though feebly. When this is the condition of things, invert the hive, gather up all the scat- tered bees, and put them in. Get some honey, if candied, heat it till it dissolves ; comb honey is not so good unless broken up ; pour a quantity among the combs, directly on the bees ; cover the bottom of the hive with a cloth, se- curing it firmly, and bring to the fire to warm. If no honey is at hand, sugar may be used instead ; add a little water, boil until near the consistency of honey, and skim it ; when cool enough, use the same as honey. In two or three hours they will be revived, and may be returned to the stand, providing the honey given is all taken up ; on no account let any run out around the bottom. The necessity of a daily visit to the hives is apparent from the fact that, if left for only a day or two in the situation just described, it will be too late to revive them. At night, if you have a box cover, such as recommended, you may open the holes in the top of the hive, fill a dish with honey or syrup, and set it on the top ; put in some shavings, cut straw, or a float made of very light wood, very thin, and full of holes, or narrow channels made with a saw, to keep the bees from drowning. When you begin to feed, scatter a few drops on the top of the hive, down into it, and on the side of the dish to teach them the way. When the weather is warm enough for them to take it during the night, it is best to feed at evening — from four to eight ounces daily is sufficient. If the family is very small, what honey is left in the morning, may be taken by robbers. It is then best to take it out, or carry the hive into a dark room, sufficiently warm, and feed them enough 126 FEEDING. to last several clays, and then return them to the stand — keeping a good look out that they are not plundered, and again starving, until the flowers produce sufficient honey. MANNER OF FEEDING. The following is a more systematic mode of feeding. Get a tinman to make a dish, ten or twelve inches square, with vertical sides two inches high. For a box hive cut a beard two feet long, and fifteen inches wide ; two or three inches from one end, cut out a place exactly the size of the dish, so that it will set in just even with the upper side of the board. Make a good fit, that no bees may get in around it. Nail cleats on the under side one or two inches thick. To keep the bees from drowning when the dish is filled with honey, and to prevent them from making Fig. 18. — FEEDER. combs down into it, set in some thin strips edgewise, half an inch apart, and reaching nearly to the bottom. To hold these strips in place, put a piece of half inch board, two inches wide, across each end. With a thick or coarse saw, cut channels half an inch apart in one side of these pieces, one-fourth inch deep, and crowd the thin strips in- to them even with the top of the dish. The strips may be split out of shingles, or sawed for the purpose. Set the hive over this, leaving one end of the dish two inches outside the back of the hive, for conve- FEEDING. 127 nience in filling. Lay over this a strip of board to keep out the bees. If the weather is warm when feeding, the bees will soon get cross, unless smoke is instantly blown among them on raising the cover. Bess will take honey more readily when directly under them, than when over- head, or on the side. Yet for most purposes the latter places will answer. To feed at the back side, make a shelf for the dish described, and a frame an inch deep, just the size of the dish. Make two or three holes in one side, and corresponding ones in the side of the hive. Lay this frame on the dish, with the holes next the hive, and put over it a pane of glass. The bees can enter from the hive, and no outsiders can interfere. Whatever plan of feeding is adopted, all openings large enough to admit a bee, except the regular entrance, should be closed. The board and feeder can be taken away, when feeding is over, and put aside until needed again. If left under the hive through the summer, it affords rather too convenient a place for the worms to spin their cocoons. OBJECT IN FEEDING. If the object in feeding is to induce early swarming, of course the best stocks are to be chosen for this purpose ; but care is necessary not to give them too much, and thus have the combs filled with honey, that should be occupied with brood, thereby defeating your object. One j>ound per day is enough, perhaps too much. The quanti- ty obtained from flowers is a partial guide; when plenty, feed less, when scarce, more. Begin as soon as they will take it up in spring, and continue in accordance with the weather, until white clover blossoms, or swarms issue. Another object in feeding bees at this period, is to have the store combs all filled with inferior honey, so that when clover appears, there is no room for it, except in the boxes, which being now put on, are rapidly filled. Inferior 128 FEEDING. honey may be used for this purpose ; Southern or West India is good, and of moderate cost. Inferior sugar, mixed with honey, will do, but they do not relish it so well when fed alone. I have usually taken about equal quantities of each, adding a pint of water to ten pounds of the mixture, boiling and skimming it. The idea has been advanced that candied honey is injurious to bees — even fatal. I never could discover any unfavorable result, further than that it was a perfect waste, when fed in this state. When boiled, and a little water added, it appears to be as good as anything. Nearly every stock will have more or less of it on hand at this season, but as warm weather ap- proaches, and the bees increase, it seems to become liqui- fied from heat alone. The bees, when compelled to use honey thus candied, waste a large portion ; a part is liquid and the rest is grained like sugar, which may be seen on the bottom board as the bees throw it out. Another and less commendable object in feeding bees, is to give inferior honey, mixed with sugar, and flavored to the taste, to the bees, and let them store it in boxes for market. I have no faith that honey undergoes any chem- ical change in the stomach of the bees, while they are going from the feeding dish to deposit it in the cell, and can not recommend this as an honest course. Neither do I think it would be very profitable to feed for this purpose, under any circumstances. I have sometimes had boxes nearly full, and almost ready for market, at the end of the honey season ; when it would seem that feeding "a little would complete them, provided the hive-were full. I have fed them a few pounds of good honey at such times, but I always found that of several pounds fed, but very little would be stored in the boxes. DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM. 129 PROMISCUOUS FEEDING UNPROFITABLE. I have seen it recommended and practiced by some apiarians, to feed bees all at once, in the open air, in a large trough ; but whoever realizes much profit from this method, will be peculiarly fortunate, as every stock in the neighborhood will soon scent it, and carry off a good share. Also, nearly every stock at home will be in contention, and great numbers be destroyed. The moment the supply is exhausted, their attention is directed to other stocks. Another objection to this wholesale feeding is, that some stocks do not need it at all, while others do, and the former, being stronger, are quite likely to get the most. CHAPTER VIII. DESTKUCTTON OF THE MOTH-WORM. I shall not give a full history of the moth in this place, as spring is not the time in which it is most destructive. But as this is a duty belonging to spring, a partial history seems necessary. As soon as the bees begin their labors the worms are generally ready to commence theirs. FOUND IN THE BEST STOCKS. You will probably find some in your best stocks, but it need not alarm you. Even weak colonies are seldom des- troyed at this season, although all may be more or less injured. They work mostly among the sealed brood. The heads of the young bees, after assuming the chrysalis form, are about one-twelfth of an inch from the sealing of the cells, leaving a suitable space between their heads and the sealing, for the perambulations of the worms. 6* 130 DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WOEM. FEAR OF THE BEES. As a protection against the bees, they spin silken galler- ies, completely surrounding them, and never exposing any part but the head, which is coated with mail. They are thus safe until they have attained their growth, when Fig. 19. — WORM GALLERY IN THE COMB. it is necessary to leave their feeding grounds to find a place for their cocoons. Without this silken covering, they are easily annoyed by the legal occupants of the hive, and will creep into every available corner to avoid their at- tacks. During the cool nights of spring, they become chilled, get on the bottom board, and being unable to move further, are easily found and killed. If you have the movable comb hive, you can take out the frames, and trace this silken gallery from begin- ning to end. Touch it in differ- ent places with a sharp pointed knife, till you see by a stir inside where the worm is, then with the point of the knife, and thumb, it can be picked" out at once. To destroy such as have left the combs, get a piece of narrow hoop-iron, (steel would be better) three- Fiff. 20. — MOTH-WORM. DESTETJCTIOjST OP THE MOTH-WOEM. 131 fourths of an inch wide, and five inches long; taper one side three inches from the end, to a point, then grind each edge sharp, make three or four holes through the wide Fig. 21. — TOOL FOR KILLING WORMS. end, to admit small nails through it in the handle, which should be about two feet long, and half an inch square. Armed with this you can proceed. HOW DESTROYED. Raise the hive on one edge, and with the point of your sword you may pick a worm out of the closest corner, and easily scrape all from under the hive. Be sure and dis- patch every one / not that the " little victim " will per- sonally do much more mischief, but it is to be apprehended through its descendants. Very likely half of all you find will have finished their course of destruction among the combs, and voluntarily left them for a place to spin their cocoons. They are worried, if bees are numerous, until satisfied that there is no safe place among them to make a shroud and remain helpless for two or three weeks. Ac- cordingly,' when they get their growth, they leave and get on the bottom board. They will be chilled and help- less in the morning, but active in the middle of the day. If they are merely thrown on the earth, a place will be selected there for transformation, if no better is found, and a moth perfected ten feet from the hive, is just as capable of depositing five hundred eggs there, as if she had never left it. Several generations are matured in the course of one summer ; consequently, one destroyed at this season, may prevent the existence of thousands before the summer is over. The moth-worm is one of the many subjects connected 132 DESTE17CTI0H OF THE MOTH-WORM. with bees, concerning which, there is a great deal of the- oretical reasoning and imposition. I wish the reader to judge for himself, lay aside whims and prejudices, and look at the subject candidly ; and if no testimony comes up to confirm any position I assume, I shall not complain if my assertions fare no better than some others. Only defer judgment until you Jaiow for yourself. Bees have always received my special regard and atten- tion, and my enthusiasm may blind my judgment. I may be prejudiced, but not wilfully wrong. I have found so many theories utterly false, when carried into practice, that I depend on none, however plausible, without facts to support them, To return to our subject. It is -supposed by many, when these worms are found on the board, that they get there by accident, having dropped from the combs above. They do not seem to understand that the worm generally travels on safe principles, that he attaches a thread to whatever he passes over. To be satisfied on this point, I have many times carefully detached his foot-hold, when on the side of the hive, or other place, where he would fall a few inches, and always found him with a thread fast at the place he left, to enable him to regain his former posi- tion if he chose. Is it not probable, then, that whenever he leaves the combs for the bottom board, he can readily ascend again ? No doubt he often does, to be driven down again by the bees. Now, what I wish to show by all this preamble, is simply this ; that all our trouble and anxiety to prevent the Avorms from again ascending to the combs, by wire hooks, wire pins, screws, nails, turned pins, clam shells, blocks of wood, etc., is perfect nonsense, when half of them would do the bees no harm if they did return, and might as well go there as any where else. And, these useless contrivances are very often positively injurious to the bees. DE54THUCTTO:s~ OE THE MOTH-WORM. 133 Suppose, if you please, that the worm has no thread attached above, and the hive is far enough above to pre- vent his reaching it. Of course he can't get up ; but how are the bees to do any better ? The worm can reach as high as they can. You think the bee can fly up ; so it will, sometimes, but will try a dozen times to get up some other way, and when it does fly, a smooth board is a very bad place from which to start. Did you ever watch by a hive thus raised, towards night, in April or May, when it 'was a little cool, and see the industrious little insects ar- riving with a load as heavy as they could possibly carry, chilly, and nearly out of breath, scarcely able to reach home, and there witness their vain attempts to get among their fellows above them ? If you never observed this, I wish you would do so, and when you find them giving up in despair, and perishing after many fruitless attempts, I think if you possess sympathy, benevolence, or even sel- fishness, you will be induced to do as I did — discard at once wire hooks, and all other contrivances under the hive, in the spring, and give the bees, when they do get home with a load, what they richly deserve, — protection. But if you set the hives close to the bottom board, you will say " the worms will get between the bottom of the hive and the board." Well, what then ? I expect if you intend to succeed, that you will get them out, and destroy them. I am as willing to find a worm under the edge of the hive, and dispatch it, as to have it creep into some place out of sight, and change to a moth. I once trimmed off the bottom of my hives to a thin edge, so they could not have this place for their cocoons, but I now prefer to have them square. No investment brings profitable re- turns without proper attention. If you plant a field with corn, you do not expect that the whole work is finished with the planting. Neither should you expect when you set up a stock of bees, that a full yield will be realized 134 DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM. without further care. If you are remunerated for keeping the -weeds from, your corn, be assured that it is equally profitable to weed out your bees. Now, do not be deceived, and through indolence be in- duced to get hives with descending bottom boards, to throw out the worms as they fall, and hope by that means to have no further trouble. We will suppose such inclined bottom board capable of throwing every worm that touches it " heels over head " to the ground ; what have we gained ? His neck is not broken, nor any other hone of his body! As if nothing extraordinary had happened, he quietly gathers himself up and looks about for snug quarters ; he cares not a fig for the hive now ; he gorman- dized on the combs until satisfied before he left them, and is glad to get away from the bees at any price. A place large enough for a cocoon is easily found, and when he again becomes desirous of visiting the hives, it is not to satisfy his own wants, but to accommodate his progeny. MOTH PROOF HIVES NOT MADE. A hive that is proof against the moth is yet to be con- structed. We frequently hear of it, from patent-vend- ers, but when tested by practical bee-keepers, the worms are generally found in the vicinity of the bees. When your hives become so full of bees that they cover the board in a cool morning, you will seldom find the worms, except under the edge of the hive. You may now raise it, and catch the worms by laying under the bees a narrow shingle, a stick of elder split in two, lengthwise, with the pith scraped out, or any thing else that Avill afford them pro- tection from the bees, and where they may spin their cocoons. These should be removed every few days, the worms destroyed, and the traps put back. Do not neglect it till they change to the moth, and there is nothing to remove but empty cocoons. PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 135 ? BOX FOR WREN. If you would take the trouble to put up a cage or two for the wren to nest in, he would be a valuable assistant in this department of your labor. He would be on the lookout when you were away, and many worms, while looking up quiet lodgings, would be relieved from all fur ther trouble by being deposited in his crop. The cage need not be more than four inches square, and should be fastened as near as possible to the bees, to a post, tree, or side of a building, a few feet from the ground. The skull of some animal, (horse or ox) is very convenient for them, the cavity for the brains being used for the nest. A person once told me the wren would not build in one that he had put up. On examination, the stake to support it was found driven into the only entrance. I mention this to show how little some people understand what they are doing. It is sometimes as well to know why a thing is to be done, as to know it must be done. If this prolixity is unnecessary for one, it may benefit another. You must remember that some bee-keepers are not over supplied with ingenuity, and must receive very explicit directions. CHAPTER IX. PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. MUST NOT BE PUT ON TOO EARLY. Putting on boxes may be considered a duty intermedi- ate between spring and summer management. I can not recommend putting them on, in ordinary circumstances, as eai'ly as the last of April or first of May. Before the hive is full of bees, it is generally useless, quite likely a disad- vantage, by allowing a portion of animal heat to escape, 136 PUTTING OK AND TAKING OFF BOXES. which is needed in the hive to mature the brood. Also, moisture may accumulate in them, causing mold to form on the inside. Experience and judgment are necessary to know about what time boxes are needed. That they are necessary, need not be argued at the present day. Bee- keepers have generally abandoned the barbarous practice of killing the bees to obtain the honey. Most of them have learned that a good swarm will store sufficient honey for winter, besides several dollars' worth of surplus. Here is where the patent-vender has taken advantage of our ig- norance, by pretending that no hive but his, ever obtained sitch quantities of honey, and of such pure quality. It is probable that a great many bee-keepers are unable to tell precisely when the hive is full of honey ; it may be full of bees, and not of honey, and they are thus uncertain when to put on boxes. The best rule that I can give, is to put them on when the bees begin to be crowded out. When they are obtaining honey, a day or two before this, would be just the right time. It should be remembered that they do not always get honey when they begin to cluster outside. This guide will do in place of a better one, which only close observation and experience can give. You may discover whether they are obtaining honey by attentively watching the cells next the glass in a glass hive. If honey is being deposited there in abundance, it is quite evident that the flowers are yielding it, and other stocks are obtaining it also. Now is the time, if the hives are full, to put on the boxes. Too much room might re- tard the swarming a few days, but if the bees are crowded outside, it indicates want of room, and the boxes can make no difference. It is better to have one box well filled, than two part fall, as might be the case if the bees were not numerous. The object of putting on boxes be- fore swarming, is to employ a portion of the bees, that otherwise would remain idly clustering outside for two or PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 137 three weeks, as they often do while preparing the young queens for swarming. But when all the bees can he pro- fitably engaged in the body of the hive, more room is un- necessary. MAKING- HOLES AFTER THE HIVE IS FULL If a hive has no holes in the top, it need not prevent your getting a few pounds of pure surplus honey. If the holes are about two inches apart, and the row is at right angles with the combs, each one will be so made that a bee arriving at the top of a hive, between any two combs, will be able to find a passage into the box without long search, which I can imagine he would have when only one hole is made, or when they are parallel with the combs. If a hive contained eight or ten sheets of comb, and but one passage to~ the box, a bee might go up between any two, many times, before it found the opening. It has been urged that every bee soon learns all the "passages about the hive, and consequently will know the direct road to the box. This may be true, but when we recollect that all within the hive is perfect darkness — that the sense of feeling must guide the bee in all its travels, and that perhaps a thousand or two young workers are added every day, and these have to learn by the same means, we would, if we studied our own interest, give them all possi- ble facilities for entering the boxes. What way so easy for them as to find a passage, when they get to the top, between each two combs ? That bees do not know all roads about a hive, can be partially proved by opening the door of a glass hive. Most of the bees about leaving, instead of going to the bottom to make their exit, seem to know nothing of the way, and will vainly try to get out through the glass. I am so well convinced of this, that I take some pains to accommodate them with frequent pas- sages. 138 PUTTING ON AND TAKTNG OFF BOXES. To assist them as much as possible, when swarms are put in new hives, make the holes and use guide-combs, as directed for boxes, which should cross the row of holes at right angles. To make holes in the top of full hives, mark out the top as directed for making hives and boxes. A centre bit, or an auger bit, with a lip or barb, is best, as that cuts down a little faster than the chip is taken out, leaving it smooth. When nearly through, you can cut the remainder of the chip loose, with a pointed knife, and take it out. If it is between the combs it is well ; if directly over one, better; with the knife take out a piece of comb as large as a wal- nut. The bees will then have a passage through from either side of the comb. After you have opened one hole, the bees will very likely want to know what is going on over head, and send out a force " to make a reconnoissance." To prevent their interference, use smoke, and send them down out of your way, till the hole is finished ; then lay over it a small stone or block of wood, and make the others in the same way. When all are done, blow in some smoke as you un- cover them, and put on the boxes. This process is not half so formidable as it appears from the description. BOXES MAY BE TOO EASY OF ACCESS. Dr. Bevan and some others have made a cross-bar hive, by laying strips of half-inch board, a little over an inch wide, and half an inch apart, across the top, instead of nailing on in the usual way. It is plain that in such a hive, a bee can pass into the box without difficulty, when- ever it arrives at the top. I will repeat my objection to allowing too much room to passages into the boxes, that the disadvantages of the extremes of too little and too much room may be perceived. In these cross-bar hives the animal heat rises into the box from the hive, making PUTTING ON AND TAKTNG OFF BOXES. 139 it as warm as below. The queen often goes up with the bees, and finding it warm and convenient, deposits her eggs, hence young brood as well as honey is found there. We should then be obliged to leave the box on the hive un- til they hatched, which would make the combs dark, etc. Boxes set directly on the frames of movable comb hives, will be more speedily filled than when the bees go through the holes, and were it not for the brood, it would .always be preferable to put them on in this way, and thus secure the greatest amount of honey. A BETTER WAT. Very much may be done to prevent the queen from go-_ ing into the boxes, by laying on the cross-bars or frames, strips of wood one-fourth inch square, upon which the boxes may be set. They will then be very close to the hive, and the bees will readily find their way into them. If a piece of comb is stuck fast to the bottom of the box, as well as at the top, the bees will commence work a little sooner. Every inducement should be offered to get them into the boxes as soon as possible after the hive is full. Whenever, ibr want of room, they are compelled to go into another apartment, they will hesitate and lose a little time. If the honey stored in the frames of the movable comb hive were only in a marketable form, we could get much more in quantity by making our hives large enough to contain a few more frames than would be required to hold winter stores. ADVANTAGE OP GLASS BOXES. This advantage attends glass boxes : while being filled, the progress can be watched till they are finished. They should then be taken off to preserve the purity of the combs. Every day that the bees are allowed to pass over them needlessly, renders them darker. Consequently, when 140 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. our bees are a long time filling a box, the comb is not as purely white as when filled expeditiously. Occasionally, a colony will contain too many bees to work to advantage in one set of boxes. In such a case, after the first are well advanced, raise them up and put another set under them, with holes for communication through both top and bottom. Two weeks is about the shortest time in which boxes are filled and finished. The time, of course, depends on the yield of honey and size of the swarm. It usually takes three or four weeks. WHEN TO TAKE THEM OFF. When no more honey is gathered, all boxes that are worth saving should be taken off. If left longer, the comb not only becomes dark, but unsealed cells containing honey, are often emptied by the bees. The condition of the boxes can be readily ascertained by raising the cover. If a slide of tin or zinc is used to close the holes when boxes are taken off, some of the bees are apt to be crushed, or find themselves minus a head, leg or wing, and all of them will be irritable for several days. A little smoke will an- swer every purpose. Raise the box sufficiently to puff under it some smoke, and the bees will leave the vicinity of the holes in an instant. The box can then be removed, and another put on if necessary, without exciting their anger in the least. Arouse the bees by striking the box lightly four or five times. If all the cells are finished, and honey is still ob- tained, turn the box bottom up, near the hive from which it was taken, so that the bees can enter it without flying. By this means you can save several young bees that have never left the hive and marked the location ; also a few others too weak to fly, which will follow the rest into the hive. Such are lost when we are obliged to take them PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 141 to a distance. Boxes can fee taken off either at morning or evening ; if in the morning, they may stand several hours when the sun is not too hot, but on no account let them stand in the sun in the middle of the day, as the combs will melt. The bees will all leave, sometimes in an hour ; at others it will take longer. They may be taken off at evening, and let stand until morning, in fair weather ; if not too cool, they are generally all out, but when they stand so long, there is some risk of the moth finding them. HOW TO GET RID OF THE BEES. When boxes are taken off at the end of the honey sea- son, a different method of getting rid of the bees must be adopted, or we shall lose the honey. Unless the combs are all finished, we shall inevitably lose some, as most of the bees fill themselves before leaving. They carry it home, and return immediately for more, and will take it all if not prevented. It is recommended to take the boxes to some dark room, with a small opening to let the bees out. In the course of the day they will generally all leave, but I have found this method unsafe, as they sometimes find their way back. When a large number of boxes are to be managed, a more expeditious mode is, to have a large box with close joints, or an empty hogshead, or a few barrels with one head out, set in a convenient place. Put the boxes in, one above another, so as not to stop the holes, and throw over the top a thin cloth, to admit the light. . The bees will leave the boxes, creep to the top, and get on the cloth. Turn this over a few times, and you will thus get rid of all the bees with but little loss of honey. All the old bees will return to the hive, but a few young ones will be lost. BEES NOT DISPOSED TO STING. Bees seldom offer to sting during this operation, even when the box is taken off without smoke, and carried 142 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. away from the hive. After a* little time, the bees fiuding themselves away from home, will lose all animosity. As honey becomes scarce, less brood is reared, and a great many cells become empty, also several cells that contained honey have been drained to mature the portion of brood just started at the time of the failure. We can now under- stand why our best stocks, that are very heavy, and but a few days before were crowded for room, and storing in boxes, are now eager for honey to store in the hive ; as there is room for several pounds. They will quickly remove to the hive the contents of any box left exposed, or even risk their lives by entering a neighboring hive in search of honey. During a yield of honey, take off boxes as fast as they are filled, and put on empty ones. At the end of the season, take all off. Not one stock in a hundred will starve, that has worked in boxes, that is, when the hive is of the proper size, and was full before adding boxes, unless it has been robbed, or met with some other misfortune. I prefer taking off all boxes at the end of the first yield of honey, even when I expect to put them on again for buckwheat honey. The bees at this season collect a great abundance of propolis, which they spread over the inside of the boxes as well as the hive ; in some instances it is spread on the glass so thickly as to prevent the quality of the honey from being seen. There is no necessity for boxes on a hive, at any time, when there is no yield of honey to fill them. Sometimes, even in a supply of buck- wheat honey, a stock may contain too few bees to fill boxes, but just enough to smear them with propolis, which should not be allowed, as it makes them look badly when used another year. At this season, (August) some old stocks may be full of combs, and have but few bees ; but when swarms have the hive full in time, they are very sure to have bees enough to work in boxes. I have known them to do so in two weeks after being hived. Some put PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 143 on boxes at the time the swarms are hived. In such cases the box is often filled first, and will quite often contain brood. I consider it no advantage, but often a damage to do so, unless the swarm is very large and early. I want the hive full in any case, and if they have time to do more, they may then enter the boxes, although they may gather buckwheat instead of clover honey. When the boxes are free from the bees, two things are to be attended to, if we wish to preserve our honey till cold weather. One is to keep out the worms, the other to prevent souring. The last may be new to many, but it sometimes occurs in warm weather from dampness. The combs become covered with moisture, a portion of the honey becomes thin like water, and turns sour. Remedy : keep perfectly dry and cool, especially dry. TO SECURE HONEY FROM WORMS. But the worms, you can surely keep them out, you think, since you can seal up the boxes perfectly close, pre- venting the moth, or even the smallest ant from entering. Yes, you may do this effectually, but the worms will often be there, unless kept in a very low temperature, as in a very cool cellar, or house, and then you have dampness to guard against. I store my surplus honey in a cool, dry cellar, and have no trouble whatever with the moth worm. I have taken off glass jars, and watched them till the bees were all out, and was certain the moth did not come near them ; then immediately sealed them up, absolutely preventing any access, and felt quite sure that I should have no trouble with the worms. But I was sadly mis- taken. In a few days, I could see a little white dust, like flour, on the side of the combs, and bottom of the jar. As the worms grew larger, this dust was coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a small, white thread-like line could be perceived, enlarging as the worm progressed. 144 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. When combs are filled with honey, the worms work only on the surface, eating nothing but the sealing of the cells, seldom penetrating to the centre, unless there is an empty cell. Disgusting as they seem to be, they dislike being daubed with honey. Wax, not honey, is their food. THE WAY THE WORMS GET IN. The reader would like to know how these worms came in the jars, when to all appearance, it was a physical im- possibility. I would like to give a positive answer, but can not. I will offer a theory, however, which is original, and therefore open to criticism. If there is any better so- lution of the problem, I would be glad to hear it. From the 1st of June till late in the fall, the moth may be found around our hives, active at night, but quiet by day. Her only object, probably, is to find a suitable place to deposit her eggs, where her young may have food. If no proper and convenient place is found, she will be con- tent with such as she can find. The eggs must be depos- ited somewhere, and she leaves them in the cracks of the hive, in the dust at the bottom, or outside as near the entrance as she dare approach. The bees running over them may accidentally attach one or more to their feet or bodies, and carry them among the combs where they will be left to hatch. It is not at all probable that the moth ever passed through the hive, among the bees, to deposit her eggs in the jars before mentioned. Had these jars been left on the hive, not a worm would have ever defaced a comb, because, \vhen the bees are numerous, each worm is removed as soon as it commences its work of destruc- tion — that is, when it works on the surface, as it does in the boxes. By taking off these jars, and removing the bees, all the eggs that happened to be there had a fair chance. Many writers finding the combs to be undisturbed when left on the hive till cold weather, recommend that, as the PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 145 only safe way, preferring to have the combs a little darker to the risk of their destruction by the worms. But I ob- ject to dai'k combs ; and leaving the boxes on will effectu- ally prevent empty ones from taking their places, thereby involving a loss of surplus honey. I will offer a few more remarks in favor of my view, and then give my remedy for the worms. I have found in all hives from which the bees have been removed in warm weather, say between the middle of June and September, moth eggs enough among the combs to destroy them in a very short time, unless kept in a very cool place. This result has been uniform. Any person doubting this, may remove the bees from a hive full of combs, in July or August. Close it to prevent the entrance of a moth, and set it away in a tem- perature ranging from 60° to 90°, and if there are not worms enough to satisfy him, he will have better success than I ever did.* Whether the foregoing theory is satisfactory or other- wise, we will proceed to the remedy. Perhaps you will find some boxes that will have no worms about them ; others may contain from ten to twenty when they have been ofi" a week or more. All the eggs should have time to hatch, which in cool weather may take three weeks. They should be watched, that no worms get large enough to materially injure the combs. Get a close barrel or box that will confine the air as much as possible ; in this put the boxes with the holes open. Leave a place for a dish in which to burn some sulphur matches, made by dipping paper or rags in melted sulphur. When all is ready, ignite *Dr. Kirtland, of Cleveland, O., in a lecture before the students of the Medical College, in Cleveland, gave substantially this theory, in accounting for the presence of the worms in the hive. Whether it originated with him or not, he does not sav. 146 SWAKMING. the matches, and cover close for several hours. A little care is necessary to use the right quantity ; if there is too little, the worms are not killed ; if too much, it gives the combs a green color. A little experience will soon enable you to judge. If the worms are not killed on the first trial, another dose must be administered. Whether this gas from burning sulphur will destroy the eggs of the moth, I have not tested sufficiently to decide ; but I do know that it is an effectual quietus for the larvae. Much less sulphur will adhere to paper or rags, when it is very hot, than when just above the tenrperature neces- sary to melt it. This should be considered, also the num- ber of boxes to be treated, size of the barrel used, etc. Boxes taken off at the end of warm weather, and ex- posed to cold through the winter, will have all the worms as well as eggs destroyed, consequently boxes so exposed may be kept any length of time, if the moth is carefully excluded. CHAPTER X. SWARMING. The subject now before us is one of exciting interest. The prospect of an increase of stocks is sufficient to engage the attention of the apiarian, even when the phenomenon of swarming would fail to awaken it. But to the natural- ist this season has charms that the indifferent beholder can never realize. KNOWLEDGE NECESSARY. It is important that the practical apiarian, as well as the naturalist, should have a thorough knowledge of this branch of apiculture, and not accept any assertions without SWARMING. 147 evidence. Twelve years ago, I found it necessary to es- tablish many positions with facts, and also to give the manner of obtaining them. But I now have the movable comb hive, which gives ocular demonstration of what then appeared to be mere conjecture, and it will be unnecessary to specify in every case the process by which I have arrived at certain conclusions. I trust that the objector will see the necessity of depending upon facts, instead of any notion, imbibed from nursery tales. Neither will it always do to reason analogically, because nature nowhere gives us an exact parallel. A noted politician who has reached an eminent position as a legislator, declared a short time since, that the queen bee was a myth — that she existed only in the imagination of ignorant bee-keepers. Every man who has taken the first step in the investigation of apiarian science, knows that he made a fool of himself quite unnecessarily. WHEN SWARMING COMMENCES. The swarming season in this latitude sometimes com- mences May 15th, and at other times, July 1st. It usually ends about the 15th of the latter month. I have known two seasons in Montgomery Co., N. Y.,. when swarms continued to issue throughout the entire summer, begin- ning in May and ending August 25th, with no interval of more than a week without swarms. One of these, 1863, was wet, and the flowers yielded but little honey. The native bees sent out about one-third the usual number of swarms, while the Italians continued to swarm for three months. They did not store much more honey than others, but they must have collected more to feed the greater quantities of brood which they reared. Rather than be idle Avhen the yield was scanty, they collected material, made combs, reared brood, and sent out swarms ; and at the end of the season the colonies were as strong, 148 SWAEMING. and had as much honey as the natives, which had not swarmed. The bee-keeper who thinks much of his bees, will, of course, wish to see and hive his swarms as they issue. If neglected, for even a short time after they cluster, they will often relieve themselves from such protection, and seek the shelter of some old tree in the woods, humming indignant reproaches as they leave. Without some knowledge of the indications of swarms, we often watch vainly for weeks, remaining at home, and perhaps neglect- ing important business in the fruitless expectation that the " bees will swarm." External appearances are not to be depended on. Very early swarms often issue before clus- tering out ; also, they very often cluster out without swarming. It is necessary to look inside the hive for reliable indications. I have several apiaries away from home that need atten- tion in the swarming season, and a person must be on hand each fair day, to take charge of the swarms as they issue. To avoid watching unnecessarily before they begin, and after they cease, some one examines the hives in the middle of the day. INDICATIONS. If they are box hives, a little smoke is blown under, the hives turned over, the bees driven away with a little more smoke, and the queen cells examined. If there are none containing eggs or larvae, or none with thin smooth walls, evidently just begun, there is not much prospect of a swarm for several days. There is always a possibility, however, that some cells will be out of sight. But if any cells con- tain eggs, or larvae nearly ready to seal over, or actually sealed over, we know at once what to expect. When sealed over, the swarm w T ill probably issue the next day. This is at the beginning of the season. If at, or near the SWARMING. 149 close, we examine again, and find the sealed queens destroyed, we at once conclude that they are' done swarming. CAKE IN EXAMINING BEES. Full hives require a little more care in turning over, than others. You need not be in fear of the bees, running up the sides of the hive ; they will not sting. Lift the hive carefully, and avoid breathing among them, except to blow the smoke. It can be done at morning or evening, but more bees are in the way, and they are more inclined to be cross. In operating with the native bees, protection for the face or hands is hardly necessary, but with the Italians it would sometimes be well to put something over the face. To a person who has never inverted a hive full to over- flowing of bees, or has never seen it done, it appears like a great undertaking, as well as the probable ruin of the stocks. But after the first trial, the magnitude of the per- formance is greatly diminished, and will grow less with every repetition of the feat, until there is not the least dread attending it. Without smoke, I hardly deem it practicable, but with it there is not the least difficulty. It would be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive, and have nothing with which to drive the bees away from the very places-- which you wish particularly to inspect. The smoke is just the thing to do it. I never discovered any bad effects of such overturning and smoking. With the movable comb hive we have only to lift out the frames, to be able to predict when a swarm may be expected. I have found the requisites for all regular swarms to be something like this. The combs must be crowded with bees ; they must contain a numerous brood advancing from 150 SWARMING. the egg to maturity, and the bees must be obtaining honey either from flowers, or artificial sources.* A "surplus of bees in a scarcity of honey is insufficient to bring out the swarm, neither will plenty of honey suffice, without the bees and brood. The period of proper duration in which all these conditions exist, will vary in different stocks, and many times does not occur at all during the season. These causes appear to result in the construction of queen cells, generally begun before the hive is filled ; sometimes when only half full. PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING. They are about one third done when they receive the eggs ; as these eggs hatch into larvas, others are begun, and receive eggs at different periods for several days later. The num- ber of such cells seems to be gov- erned by the pros- es perity of the bees ; when the family is large, and the yield of honey abun- dant, they ' may construct twenty, at other times not more than two or three, although several such cells may remain empty. I have already said that a failure, or even a partial one, Tig. 22.— CLUSTER OF QUEEN CELLS. a, a, «, Size of the cell when the egg is deposited; 6, Fin- ished cell; c, Cell from which a viiituru queen has emerg- ed; d, Cell in which the queen has been destroyed by a rival, and removed by the workers. * The Italians will swarm sooner than the native bee when obtaining but little honey. SWAKMING. 151 in the yield of honey at any time after the royal eggs are deposited, before the sealing of the cells — which is ahout ten days — will be likely to ensure their destruction. Even after being sealed, I have sometimes known them to be destroyed. WHEN SWARMS ISSUE. But when there is nothing precarious about the supply of honey, the sealing of these cells indicates the first swarm, which will generally issue on the first fair day after one or more are finished. I have never missed a prediction of a swarm, when I have judged from these signs, in a prosperous season. When there is a partial failure of honey, the swarm will sometimes wait several days after finishing these cells. If the family is strong, and there is a sudden increase in the yield of honey, the swarm may not w T ait for the sealing of any cells, but will issue about the time, or very soon after, eggs are laid in them. This occurs sufficiently often to be mentioned as an exception to the rule. But never- theless, the rule is, to expect the first swarm upon the sealing of any of the royal cells. Again, if there is a failure of honey when these cells are finished, there may be no swarm. A failure often occurs between fruit blossoms and white clover, and also at the end of the honey season, whether it be the first, middle, or last of July. The first deficiency occurs about June 1st. If fruit blossoms have yielded only a moderate amount of honey, the strong stocks that have a good supply, feeling their importance, like some specimens of the human family, who consider a moderate competence inexhaustible, will indulge in extravagance by rearing a useless number of drones. When the income ceases, and famine is close at hand, something must be done to save the colony. The drones are sacrificed for the good of the community ; even the 152 SWARMING. brood is destroyed, queen cells demolished, and all idea of swarming given up. The destruction of drones at any- time may be accepted as evidence that, for the time being, swarming is over. Colonies possessing but a moderate supply of bees and honey, usually work on safe principles ; they can not afford to rear any drones, and when the scarcity between fruit blossoms and clover occurs, they pass the crisis without any sacrifice, and are ready to take advantage of the first yield, and will throw out swarms long before those who were apparently far more prosper- ous in the beginning of spring. This explains how a second-rate stock may sometimes surpass a " No. 1 " in swarming, which has been quite a mystery to many bee- keepers. WHY DRONES ARE SOMETIMES KXLLED EST SPUING. I have seen statements going the rounds of the agricul- tural press like this : " There will be no swarms this year, as the bees have killed off their drones." This fact does not settle the matter for the season, by any means, but it will assuredly be some weeks before they can possibly get another brood of drones under way. After a reverse of this kind, they will not begin again until honey is obtained in abundance, and it is quite often that all the conditions are not present again, until the season is so far advanced that it is too late. Occasionally they make preparation's the second time, and again abandon them. It is quite un- usual for none of them to send out swarms late in the season. Who will say that bees do not manifest wisdom ? "What prudent man would emigrate with a family if famine were plainly indicated, when by remaining at home, he would have a present abundance ? Who can fail to admire this wise and beautiful arrangement ? The combs must con- tain brood ; the bees must find honey during the rearing SWARMESTG. 1 53 of the queens. If a swarm were to issue as soon as honey were obtained, the consequences might be fatal, as there would not be a numerous brood to hatch out, and replen- ish the old stock with bees enough to keep out the worms. Were they to issue at any time, as soon as the bees had increased enough to spare a swarm, without regard to the yield of honey, they might starve. WHICH BEES ISSUE. I find many theories conflicting with these views which need attention. It is generally supposed that a young queen must be matured to issue with the swarms, and that the old queen and old bees are permanent residents of the old hive. It is probable that no rule governs the issue of the workers. Old and young come out promiscuously. That old bees issue with a swarm is evident from the fact that sometimes not a quarter as many will be left as com- menced work in the spring. Also a great many may be seen in late swarms, with wings so worn as to be unable to fly with the load of honey which they attempt to carry. I have seen enough get down in this way, from one swarm, to fill a pint measure. That young bees leave, any one may be satisfied on see- ing a swarm issue. A great many too young and weak to fly, will drop down in front of the hive, having come out now for the first time, perhaps not an hour out of the cell ; these very young bees may be known by their color. That these may creep back to the hive, is another inducement to set it near the ground. The old queen often gets down in the same way, but her burden of eggs is probably the cause of her inability to fly. THE OLD QUEEN LEAVES. That the old queen leaves with the first swarm is so easily proved with the movable comb hive, that it is un- 154 SWARMING. necessary to occupy several pages in maintaining it. After the swarm lias left, you have only to examine the combs, to be assured that she is nowhere in the hive. The absence of eggs in the cells is other proof. HIVES SHOULD BE HEADY. "We will now suppose that some of your colonies are ready to send out swarms, and will also presume that the empty hives for the reception of swarms are in readiness. To prepare a hive after the swarm has issued, indicates bad management ; negligence here, argues negligence elsewhere ; it is one of the premonitions of " bad luck." You will also want a number of bottom boards expressly for hiving. Get a board a little larger than the bottom of the hive, nail strips across the ends on the under side, to prevent warping ; in the middle cut out a space five or six inches square, and cover w r ith wire-cloth. These are for your large swarms in very hot weather, to be used for four or five days. It is much safer to use them than to raise the hive an inch or two for ventilation. They are also essential on many other occasions. IMMEDIATE INDICATIONS OP A SWARM. When the day is fair, and there is not too much wind, first swarms generally issue from 10 A. M., till 3 P. M. The first outside indication, of a swarm will be an unusual number of bees about the entrance, from one to sixty minutes before they start. The utmost confusion seems to prevail, bees run about in every direction, and the en- trance is apparently closed by the mass of bees ; present- ly a column from the interior, forces a passage to the open air ; they rush out by hundreds, vibrating their wings, and when a few inches from the entrance, rise in the air ; some rush up the side of the hive, others to the edge of the bottom-board. If you have seen the old queen come out SWARMING. 155 the first one, and the rest following her, as we are often told she does, yon have seen what I never did in a first swarm. I have occasionally seen the old queen issue, but not before the swarm was half out. Second and third swarms conduct themselves quite differently. The bees, when first rising from the hive, describe cir- cles of but few feet, but as they recede, they spread over an area of several rods. Their movements are much slower than usual. In a few moments thousands may be seen revolving in every possible direction. A swarm may be seen and heard at a distance where fifty hives at ordi- nary work would not be noticed. SWARM CLUSTERS. When all are out of the hive, or soon after, some branch of a tree or bush is usually selected upon which to cluster. In less than half a minute after the spot is indicated, even when the bees are spread over an acre, they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, and all cluster in a body, in from five to ten minutes after leaving the hive. They should be hived immediately, as they show impatience if left long, especially in the sun ; also if another colony should send out a swarm while they were hanging there, they would be quite sure to unite. HOW TO DO IT. It makes but little difference in what way they are put into the hive, provided they are all made to go in. Pro- ceed as is most convenient ; an old table or bench is very good to keep them out of the grass, should there happen to be any. If there is nothing in the way, lay your bottom- board on the ground, make it level, set your hive on it and raise one edge an inch or more with small sticks or stones, to give the bees a chance to enter. Cut off the branch on which the bees are hanging, if it 156 SWARMING. can be done as well as not, and shake them off in front of the hive ; a portion will discover it and will at once commence a vibration of their wings, which seems to be a call for the others. A knowledge that a new home is found, seems to be communicated in this way, as it is continued until all have entered. A great many are apt to stop about the entrance, thereby nearly or quite closing it, and preventing others from going in. You can expedite their progress by gently disturbing them with a stick or quill. When gentle means will not induce them to enter in a reasonable time, and they appear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on them will greatly facilitate operations. Be careful and not overdo the matter by using too much water ; they can be made so wet that they will not move at all. When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to cut off, arrange the bottom-board as before directed, then turn the hive bottom up directly under the main part of the cluster, and if you have an assistant, let him jar the branch sufficiently to dislodge the bees ; most of them will fall directly into the hive. If no assistant is at hand, strike the under side of the branch with the bottom of the hive, and when the bees have fallen in it, set it on the board ; the sticks will prevent the bottom from crushing the bees. I have gone up a ladder twenty feet high, got the bees in the hive in this way, and backed down without difficul- ty. After putting the hive in its place, sometimes a part of the bees will go back to the alighting place ; in that case a small leafy branch should be held directly under and close to them, and as many jarred on it as possible. Hold this still, and shake the other to prevent their clus- tering there ; you will soon have them all collected, ready to bring down and put by the hive. A basket or large tin pan may be taken up the ladder instead of the hive, from which the bees can be readily emptied before it. But very few will fly out in com. SWARMING. 157 ing down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the bees at the first effort, merely shaking the branch will be sufficient to prevent the remainder from alighting, and will turn their attention below, where those which have already found a hive will be doing their best to call them. When the hive is first turned over, most of the bees will fall on the board and rush out, but as soon as they realize that a home is found, they will commence buzzing. This quickly communicates the fact to those outside, who immediately turn about and hum in concert while inarching in. Another plan may be adopted if they light very high, when the branch is not too large, and there is not too much in the way below it. Have ready two or three light poles of suitable length, with a branch at-the upper end, large enough to support a bushel basket. Raise the basket directly under the swarm, and with another pole dislodge all the bees. They will fall into it and may be quickly let down. Now, if you have secured nearly all, throw a sheet over them for a few moments to prevent their escape. They soon become quiet, when they may be hived, and but few will return to the branch, as many will do when they are put in the hive immediately. When many swarms are to be brought down in this way, a bag may be prepared which can be put up among the branches where it would be difficult to use a basket. Sew a hoop around the top of a bag, and fasten one side of it to a piece of wood two inches square, and three feet long, four inches from one end. Brace the hoop with a strong wire fastened six inches below. Around the lower end of the stick, fas- ten a band of hoop iron twelve inches long, in such a manner that it will form a loop two inches in diameter, on one side, and make another loop one inch in diameter, in the same w T ay, one foot above. Light poles of different lengths should be fitted into these bands. When ready to operate, put in a pole long enough to 158 SWAKMIJSTG. reach the bees, and raise the mouth of the bag directly under them. With the end that projects above the hoop, strike the limb upon which the bees have clustered, with force sufficient to jar them into the bag. By dexterously Fig. 23. — BAG FOR HIVING BEES. tipping it sideways, the mouth of the bag can be effectually closed, and the bees brought to the ground without diffi- culty. In a few minutes they become quiet, and can be hived as before mentioned. This method is generally to be preferred to ascending the ladder. Bees often begin to cluster near the ground, in a con- venient situation for hiving. In such a case I do not wait SWARMING. 159 for all to alight, but as soon as such place is indicated, I get the board and hive ready. When a quart or so are gathered, I shake them in the hive, and set it up ; the swarm will now go to that, instead of the branch, espe- cially if the latter is shaken a little. Where many bees are kept, it is advisable to be as expeditious as possible. A swarm w-ill thus be hived much sooner than when al- lowed to cluster. Swarms will sometimes alight in places where it is im- possible to jar them off, such as a large limb, or trunk of a tree. In which case place the hive near, as first direct- ed ; take a large tin dipper — the most convenient vessel for the purpose — and dip it full of bees ; with one hand turn back the hive, and with the other put the bees into it.* Some of them will discover that a home is provided, and set up the buzzing. The remainder can be emptied in front of the hive as you dip them off. I have known a few instances when the first dipper full all ran out and joined the others without making the discovery that they were in a hive, but this is seldom the case. When you get the queen in, there will be no trouble with the remainder, even if there are many left. As soon as they ascertain that the queen is not among them, they will manifest it by their uneasy movements. ALL, SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTEK. They will soon leave and join those in the hive, or if the queen is yet on the tree, even if there be but a dozen with her, those in the hive will leave and cluster again. In all cases they must all be made to enter; a cluster outside may contain the queen, unconscious of a home, and the consequence might be, her departure for a miserable one in the woods. * Dipping is preferable to brushing with a wing or broom, as the latter irritates them exceedingly. 160 SWARMING. CARRY TO THE STAND. When all are in, except a few that will be flying, let the hive close down to the board, take hold of this and carry- it at once to the stand which they are to occupy, and raise the front edge half an inch, unless you use the bottom board recommended. Let the back rest on the board, that they may have means to re-ascend, if they chance to fall, which large swarms often do in hot weather. If the bottom is an inch or more from the board when they thus fall, there is nothing to prevent their rushing out on every side ; they can not easily get up again, and if the queen comes out with the rush, there are some chances of their leaving. TO PUT THEM IN A MOVABLE COMB HTVE. There are but few movable comb hives which the bees will as readily enter as the box. It is usually the least trouble to put the swarm in a box hive, and transfer to the other, near evening, or at your first leisure. A plain box made of thin boards, is lighter and easier handled than a common box hive. Carry the swarm to the stand, and if the hive is like the one I use, remove the honey board, spread the frames each way from the middle, and shake the bees directly in the hive between the frames, as you would a quantity of grain. Before many can creep out, lay on the honey board. As the hive is close to the bot- tom, no bees can get out except at the entrance, and these will immediately turn about. If a few are yet adhering to the box, give it a jar in front of the hive. After all are quiet, the frames may be properly adjusted. SHADE IMPORTANT. It is very important that swarms should be protected from the sun for several days in hot weather, from nine o'clock till three or four ; and then if the heat is very oppressive, SWAKMING. 161 and the bees cluster outside, sprinkle them with water and drive them in. Wetting the hive occasionally will carry off a large portion of the heat, and make it much more comfortable. CLUSTERING BUSHES. If there are no large trees in the vicinity of your apiary, all the better ; there will then be no trouble with the swarms lighting out of reach, but all bee-keepers are not so fortunate. In a place where there are no natural con- veniences, it is necessary to provide something for them to cluster on. Get some bushes six or eight feet high — evergreens are preferable — cut off the ends of the branches except a few near the top, secure the whole with strings, to prevent swaying in ordinary winds, make a hole in the earth deep enough to hold them, and so large that they may be easily lifted out. The bees will be likely to clus- ter on some of these ; they can then be raised out and the swarm hived without difficulty. A bunch of dry mullen- tops tied together on the end of a pole, makes a very good place for clustering ; it so nearly resembles a swarm that bees themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. I have frequently known them to leave a branch where they had begun to cluster, and settle on this when held near. The reasons for immediately removing the swarm to the stand, are, that they are generally more convenient to watch in case they are disposed to leave, and many bees can be saved. All that leave the hive, mark the location the same as in spring. Several hundreds will probably leave the first day, a few, several times. When removed at night to the permanent stand, such will return to the stand of the previous day, and are generally lost, whereas, if they are removed at once, this loss is avoided. Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old 6tock, which those that return from the swarm the next 162 SWARMING. day will not always do. It will take no longer to move them at one time thaa at another. It is useless to object, and say that " it will take too long to wait for the bees to get in." I shall insist on your making all the bees enter before you leave them. I consider this an essential feature in the management. I Will not say that my directions will always prevent their going to the woods, but in my expe- rience, not one in a thousand has ever thus left. It is possible that judicious management has had no influence upon my success, yet I have indulged something like an opinion of this kind for a long time. LOSS BY FLIGHT. Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter or half their swarms by flight, and how do they manage ? When the word is given out, "Bees swarming," a tin horn, tin pan, or any thing to make a horrible din, is seized upon, and as much noise made as possible, to make them cluster, which they naturally would do, without the music. The fact that they would cluster in any case, probably gave rise to the opinion of the old lady who knew " drum- ming on a tin pan did good, for she had tried it." Very often a hive is to be constructed, or an old one, unfit to use in any shape, must have some new cross sticks ; or something else must be done to take time. "When the hive is obtained, it must be washed with something nice to make the bees like it ; a little honey, or sugar and wa- ter, molasses and water, salt and water, must be daubed on the inside ; or salt and water rubbed on with hickory leaves is " the best thing in the world ;" several other things are just as good, and some are better. Even whiskey, that bane of man, has been offered them as a bribe to stay, and sometimes they endure these nuisances, and go to work. SWARMING. 163 NOTHING BUT BEES NECESSABY IN A HIVE. I will not say positively that all these things do harm, yet I am quite sure that they do no good, as nothing is needed but bees in a hive. Is it reasonable to suppose that they are fond of all the " knick-knacks " given them ? I have never used any, and could not possibly have done much better. I am careful to have the hive sweet and. clean, and not too smooth inside ; an old hive that has been used before, is scalded and scraped. But to the manner in which people get the bees in, after the hive is ready. A table with a cloth spread over it, is set out, and the hive prepared as above, is set upon it. If they succeed in getting the swarm even on the outside of the hive, it is left ; if it goes in, it is well ; if it goes off, " better luck next time." The hive is left unshel- tered in the hot sun, and when there is no wind, the heat is soon insupportable, or at least very oppressive. The bees hang in loose strings instead of a compact body, as when kept cool. They are very apt to fall, and when they do, will rush out on every side ; if the queen chance to drop with them, they may " step out." Two-thirds of all the bees that go to the woods, are managed in this, or a similar manner, and may it not be said they are fairly driven off? Hives painted some dark color will become intolerably warm in the sun, and are often deserted. The rank smell of newly painted hives of any color, often causes the bees to leave for more pleasant quarters in the woods. Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart for the woods without clustering. But I have never had one leave me thus. Yet I have indisputable evidence that some will do it. 164 SWARMING. DO THEY SELECT A HOME BEFORE SWARMING. • The inquiry is often made, do all swarms have a place selected before leaving the parent stock ? The answer to this must ever be conjectural. I could relate some cir- cumstances favoring the affirmative, and as many for the negative, but will let it pass. Yet I think if bees are pro- perly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms in a hundred will prefer a good clean hive to a rotten tree in the woods. HOW FAR WILL THEY GO. How far they will go in search of a home is also uncer- tain. I have heard of their going seven miles, but could not learn how the fact was proved. I have no experience of my own upon this point, but will relate a circumstance that happened near me. While a neighbor was plowing, a swarm passed over him ; being near the earth, he " pelted them heartily " with loose dirt, which brought them down, and they clustered on a low bush ; they were hived and gave no further trouble. A man living some three miles from this one, on that day hived a swarm about eleven o'clock, and left them to warm up in the sun, as just de- scribed. About three o'clock, their stock of patience being probably exhausted, they resolved to seek a better shelter. They departed in a great hurry, not even waiting to thank their owner for the spread on his table, and the choice perfumery with which he had scented their hive. They gave him no notice whatever of their intention " to quit," until they were moving ! "With all their goods ready packed, they were soon under way, accompanied by their owner with music, but whether they marched with milita- ry precision, is uncertain. In this case, the bees took the lead ; the man with his tin-pan music, kept the rear, and was soon at a respectful distance. They were either not in a mood, just then, to be charmod by melodious sounds, or their business was too urgent to allow them to stop and S WARMING. 165 listen. Thei'r means of locomotion being superior to his, he gave up in despair and out of breath, at the end of a mile. Another person, about the same time in the day, saw a swarm moving in the same direction ; he also followed them till compelled to yield to their greater locomotive powers. A third discovered their flight, and likewise at- tempted a race, but like the others, was soon left behind. The before-mentioned neighbor saw them, and stopped them as described. How much farther they would have gone, it is of course impossible to say. That it was the same swarm that started three miles away, appears almost conclusive. We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. There will be some emergencies to provide for, and some excep- tions to notice. If we keep many colonies, the chances are that two or more may issue at one time ; and when they do, they will nearly always cluster together. It is plain that the greater the number of colonies, the more such chances are multi- plied. ONE FIRST SWARM HAS BEES ENOUGH. One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain bees enough for profit, yet two such will work together with- out quarreling, and will store about one-third more than either would alone ; that is, if each single swarm would gather fifty pounds, the two together would not get over seventy pounds, perhaps less. Here then is a loss of thirty pounds, besides the virtual loss of one of the swarms for another year ; because such double stocks are not gener- ally any better the next spring, and not often as good as single ones. Hence the advantage of keeping the first swarms separate, is apparent. 166 SWARMING. HOW TO KEEP SWARMS SEPARATE. " Prevention is better than cure." We can, if we are watchful, often prevent the issue of more than one at a time. This depends in a great measure, on our knowledge of indications. I have said that before beginning to fly off, they were about the entrance in great numbers ; there may be one exception in twenty, when the first indica- tions will be a column of bees rushing from the hive. To pursue our investigations a little further, we will look within, that is, if glass boxes are used, su.ch as have been recommended. It is an advantage to know which are about to cast swarms, as long beforehand as possible. These glass boxes are usually filled with bees ; previous to leaving they may often be seen in commotion long be- fore any unusual stir is visible outside, sometimes for nearly an hour. The same may be noticed in a glass hive. In good weather, when we have reason to expect many swarms, it is our duty to watch closely, especially when the weather has been unfavorable for several days previous. A number of colonies may have finished their queen cells during the bad weather, and be ready to send out swarms within the first hour of sunshine that occurs in the middle of the day. We must expect this to take place sometimes, and in large apiaries there is apt to be trouble, unless pro- per precautions are taken. It is well to know by previous examination, which hives have made preparations for swarming, and as soon as one has begun to issue, look at all the rest that are in condition to swarm ; or, what is much better, look before any have started. Even if noth- ing unusual is perceived about the entrance, raise the cover to the boxes. If the bees there are all quiet as usual, no swarm need be immediately apprehended, and you will probably have time to hive one or two without interruption. But should you discover the bees running to and fro in great commotion, although quiet at the entrance, you SWARMING. 167 should lose no time in sprinkling those outside with water. They will instantly enter the hive to avoid the apprehend- ed shower. In half an hour they will be ready to start again, during which time the others may be secured. I have had, in one apiary, sixteen hives all ready in one day, all of which actually swarmed, and several would have started at once had they not been kept back, allowing only one to issue at a time, as described. They had been hin- dered by the clouds, which broke away about noon. "When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed to unite with those already hived, a sheet was thrown over to keep them out. I had four so covered at once. An assistant is very useful at such times ; one can watch symp- toms, and detain the swarms, while another hives them. Occasionally when waiting for a swarm to start, two may do so simultaneously. CAN NOT BE STOPPED WHEN PART ARE ON THE WING. Whenever a part was already on the wing, I never suc- ceeded in retarding the issue ; it is then useless to try to drive or coax them back. To succeed, the means must be applied before any part of the swarm leaves. Two or more swarms will cluster together and not quarrel, if put into one hive. I have already mentioned the disadvantages. Unless business is very urgent, your time can not be better employed than in dividing them HOW TO DIVIDE. But it is necessary first to provide a stock of patience, as it may be a long job. Spread a sheet on the ground, shake the bees upon the centre of it, and set an empty hive each side of the mass, with the edges raised to allow the bees to enter ; if too many are disposed to enter one hive, set it farther off. If they cluster in a situation where they can not be hived in a body, they may be dipped off 168 SWARMING. as before directed, but instead of putting them all in one hive, put a dipper full in each, alternately, till all are in. They should be made to enter rapidly ; keep the entrance clear and stir them up often, or sprinkle a very little wa- ter on them, as they should not be allowed to stop their humming until all are inside. There are even chances of getting a queen in each hive. The two hives should now be placed twenty feet apart ; if each has a queen, the bees will remain quiet, and the work is done ; but if not, the bees in the one destitute will soon manifest it, by running about in all directions, and when the queen can not be found, will leave for the other hive where there are doubt- less two, a few going at a time. There are two or three methods of separating these queens. One is, to empty the bees out, and proceed as before, a game of chance that may succeed at the next trial, and may have to be indefi- nitely repeated. Or, as soon as it is ascertained which is without a queen, spread down a sheet, set the hive on it, and tie the corners over the top to secure the bees. Turn the hive on its side for the present, to give them air, or let it down on a wire cloth bottom-board, and stop the hole in the side. The bees w T ould be less likely to be smothered if the hive could be secured to the bottom board and lie on its side. When these are secured, get another hive, and jar out those with the queens. Let them enter as be- fore, and then set them apart, watching the result. If the queens are not yet separated, it will soon be shown. The process must be continued till successful, or the bees with the queens may be easily looked over, and one of them found. Indeed, a sharp look out should be continued from the beginning, and one of the queens caught if possible. ~No danger of her sting need be apprehended, for she will not demean herself to use it against a plebeian foe — she must have a royal antagonist. When successful in obtaining one, put her in a tumbler or some safe place; SWARMING. 169 then put the bees in two hives, place them as directed, and you will soon learn where your queen is needed. Af- ter the work is completed, the hives should be at least twenty feet apart ; perhaps forty would be still better. When two swarms are mixed, and then separated, it is evident that a portion of each swarm must be in both hives. The queen in each must be a stranger to a part of her subjects; these might, if their own mother was too near, discover her, and leave the stranger for an old ac- quaintance, and in the act, attract the rest with them, including the queen. I have known a few instances of the kind. If you are disposed to separate them, but are afraid to work among them to this extent in the middle of the day, or if there is danger of more issues to mix with them, and add to the perplexity of which you already have enough, then you can hive them as a single swarm, but in- stead of using a bottom board, invert an empty hive, and set the one containing the swarm, on it, and insert a wedge between them on one side, for ventilation. Many bees are liable to drop down, but the lower hive will catch them, and there is less danger of their leaving. Let them remain till near sunset, when another course must be taken to find a queen, though by that time one is sometimes killed — yet it is well to know the fact. Take them to some place out of the sun, as a less number will fly during the operation. Look in the lower hive for a dead queen, and if you find none, look thoroughly as far as possible, for a compact cluster of bees, the size of a hen's egg, that may be rolled about without separating. Secure this cluster in a tum- bler ; it is quite likely that one of the queens is a prisoner in the middle.* Should two be seen, secure both. Then * All stranger queens, introduced into a stock or swarm, are secured and de- tained in this manner by the workers, but whether they dispatch them, or this is a means adopted to incite them to a deadly conflict, writers do not agree, and I 8 170 SWARMIHG. divide the bees and give the destitute one a queen ; or, if you have caught two, one to each. It would be well first to see if the queen is alive, by removing the bees from about her. But should you find no cluster of the kind, spread a sheet on the ground, shake the bees on one end of it, and let them march towards the hive at the other end. You may now see the cluster, and may not, but they will spread out, and give you a good opportunity to see her majesty. When you discover her, secure her by set- ting a tumbler over her. If there are a few bees shut up with her, there is no harm done. Slip a piece of window- glass under, and you will have her safe, and by this time you will know what is to be done next. This operation could not well be performed in the middle of the day, or in the sun, as so many bees would be flying that they would greatly interfere. . Should you fail to find a queen, and be unable to make a division in consequence, or resolve from want of time, patience, or energy, to let them remain together, it is un- necessary to put them in any larger hive than usual ; they will certainly have room enough by cold weather. If there are more than two together, they should be divided by all means. When two large swarms are left together, it is necessary to keep an inverted hive under them for the first three or four days, but no longer, as they might extend their combs into the lower hive. When the lower hive is removed, boxes should be immediately put on, which should be changed for empty ones, as fast as they are filled. Yet this extra honey is of not quite as much advantage as an increase of stocks ; when the latter is an object, I would recommend the following disposition of the swarms. can not say, as I never saw the bees voluntarily release a queen thus confined. But I have seen queens, when not prevented by the bees, rush together in afatal encounter, of which one was soon left a fallen victim. It is said that it never happens that both are killed in these battles— perhaps not. I never saw all of these royal combats, and, of course, am not competent to decide. SWARMING. 171 Return one-third or more of them, without any queen, to one of the old stocks. They will immediately enter without any contention, and issue again in about nine days, or as soon as a young queen is matured to go with them. There may he exceptional cases. I would recommend this course in all cases of the kind, but they are apt to be rather idle, even when they might labor in the boxes, and there is often a loss of some eight or ten days. The col- lections of a good swarm may be estimated at from one to three pounds per day. A swarm that just fills the hive, would gather, from ten to twenty-five pounds of box honey, if it could have been located ten days earlier. Still another plan may be adopted, when you have a very small swarm that is not likely to fill the hive, and has not been hived more than two or three days. Put one-third of your two swarms in with that, taking care, as before, not to let your only queen go with them. The manner of doing it is very simple. Put them in a hive as before directed, and jar them out in front of the one you wish them to enter, or invert it, setting the other over, and let them go up. Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary not to introduce a small number with a large swarm, as they are liable to be destroyed. The danger is much greater than to pnt equal numbers together, or a large number with a few. On the day that swarms issue, they will generally mix peaceably, but in proportion as time intervenes be- tween the issues, the liability to quarrel will increase. Yet, I have united two families of about equal numbers in the fall and spring, and with a few exceptions, have had no difiiculty. DIFFERENT PROCESS WITH MOVABLE COMB HIVE. The foregoing remarks are for those who use the box hive. But those using the movable combs will have less 172 SWARMING. trouble. All the bees may be put into one hive, with the surplus boxes on the top, and if necessary an empty hive under. There is room on the top for one-third more box- es, than on the box hive. If the weather has been good, they may be divided in a week, by putting half the combs in an empty hive, and proceeding as directed in chap. xi. If you have empty combs on hand, divide the swarms at once. As soon as you ascertain which has no queen, shut it up, and when it is so dark that the bees will not fly, put them in the hive containing combs. Previously insert a small piece of comb containing brood, from which they may raise a queen, that is, when you can not furnish a queen or queen cell. If you have a laying queen to spare, it is not all impor- tant to have combs for the queenless division ; simply put them in an empty hive, and give them a caged queen. If they do not stay willingly, confine them a day or two ; when the queen is set at liberty they will usually be con- tented. The difference in time gained by giving them a laying queen, instead of the means of rearing one, is about three weeks, equivalent in value to a small swarm. I have but little doubt that an improved system of bee culture will make it profitable to rear queens, and keep them on hand for such emergencies, as well as for all occasions where new queens are needed. It will sometimes insure a gain equal to the difference between a fair profit and actual loss. Should a new swarm lose its queen, you may intro- duce one in a cage immediately, liberating her in about forty-eight hours. Another means of keeping swarms separate is the " swarm-catcher," made by covering a frame with fine net- ting, to be set before the hive when the swarm is issuing. But as it seems to keep back part of the swarm, and is al- so oj)en to other objections, I have laid it aside. SWARMING. 173 SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN. Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes return to the old stock. The most common cause is the inability of the old queen to fly, on account of her burden of eggs, or old age. I have sometimes, after the swarm had returned, found the queen near the hive, and put her back ; and the next day she would come out again, and fly without difficulty, probably having discharged some of her eggs. They are more apt to return in windy weather, or when the sun is partially obscured by clouds. About three- fourths 'of such swarms will not re-issue until a young queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards, and a few not at all. But when the queen returns with the swarm, they usually come out again the next day, but. sometimes not before the third or fourth day after. I have known a few instances, when they issued again the same day. Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four days in succession, but this may generally be remedied, as it is often owing to some inability of the queen ; and she may frequently be found while the swarm is leaving, out- side the hive, unable to fly. In such circumstances, have a tumbler ready and secure her as soon as she appears. Get the empty hive for the swarm, and a large cloth, and put down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The swarm is sure to come back, and the first bees that alight on the hive will set up the call. As soon as you perceive this, lose no time in setting the old stock on the board at one side, throwing the cloth over it to keep out the bees. Put the new one in its place on the stand, and the queen in it ; in a few minutes the swarm will be in the new hive, when it can be removed and the old one replaced. But should the swarm begin to cluster in a convenient place, when you have so caught the queen, by being ex- peditious she may be put with them, before they have 174 SWARMING. missed her, and they may be hived in the usual way. In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place of the old one or not, whenever a swarm returns, if other hives stand near on each side, they are quite sure to receive a portion of the bees, probably a few hundreds, which are certain to be killed. To prevent this, cover them until the bees have gathered on their own hive. This is another argument in favor of plenty of room between hives. Should no queen be discovered during the issue or return of the swarm, she should be sought for in the vicinity of the hive, and returned if found ; and the swarm will be likely to issue several days earlier than if obliged to wait for a young queen. When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees have returned to wait for a young one, they are ready to leave one or two days sooner than regular second swarms. Whether a greater number of bees in the old hive, gener- ating more animal heat, matures the chrysalis queen in less time than a stock thinned by casting a swarm, or some other cause operates, I can not say. I mention it because I have known it to occur frequently. A swarm unaccompanied by a queen, is scattered more than usual when flying. In most cases where the queens are unable to fly, they are old, and past the age of usefulness, and it is not of much consequence if they are lost. They would die soon, in any event. FIRST SWARMS CHOOSE GOOD WEATHER. First swarms are commonly more particular in regard to weather than after swarms. They have several days from which to choose, after the royal cells are ready, and before the queens are matured ; and they usually select a fair one. But here again are exceptions. SWARMING. 175 EXCEPTION'S. I have known first swarms to issue in a wind that kept every branch of tree and bush in such agitation that it was impossible to find any upon which they could cluster. After a few fruitless attempts they gave it up, and came down on " terra firma." This occurred after several days of rainy weather. The next day being pleasant, many swarms issued, almost proving that the wind on the preced- ing day had kept a part of them back. I have also known them to issue in a shower that beat many of them to the ground before they could cluster. In these cases the shower was sudden, the sun shining almost at the moment it began to rain. During a long period of wet, cloudy weather they seem to become impatient, and come out quite unexpectedly — contrary to all rules. AFTER-SWARMS. After-swarms are all that issue after the first, called se- cond, third, etc., for convenience. They differ in their conduct from the first swarms, as also do some first swarms when the old queen has been lost, and they are led out by a young queen. THEIR SIZE. Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, the third half as large as the second, etc., with some variations. I give general features, noticing only the exceptions that occur most frequently. WHEN EXPECTED. Whenever, in a prosperous season, the first swarm is not kept back by foul weather, the first of the young queens in the old colony is ready to emerge from the cell in seven or eight days. The second swarm may be ex- pected in about two days thereafter. 176 SWAEMING. PIPING OF THE QUEEN. On the morning of that day, or the evening previous, by putting your ear close to the hive, and listening attentive- ly a few minutes, you will hear a distinct piping noise like the word peep, uttered several times in succession, and followed by an interval of silence. Two or more may be heard at the same time ; one will be shrill and fine, another hoarse, short and quick. The first is made by the queen that has left her cell, the other by one or more that have matured, but are kept in the cells by the workers, after they have made an opening for their exit. The difference in the sound is j)robably caused by their wings being cramped by the walls of the cells. They are so little dis- turbed by the removal of a comb, that the piping is con- tinued while you are looking at the very comb upon which they happen to be. This piping is easily heard by any one not actually deaf, and there is not the least danger of its being mistaken for any humming ; in fact, it is not to be mistaken for any thing, even when it is heard for the first time. These notes can probably never be heard, except when the hive contains a plurality of queens. I never failed to hear it, previous to any after-swarm, whenever I listened. The time that the piping commences will be later than specified, in some colonies, if the weather is cool, or there are not many bees left ; it may be twelve or fourteen days after the first swarm.* Also, the swarm may not issue in two or three days af- ter you hear the piping. The longer the swarm delays, the louder will be the piping. I have heard it distinctly twenty feet, by listening attentively when I knew one was thus engaged. By putting the ear against the hive, it may be heard even in the middle of the day, or at any time * When first swarms issue before the queens in the old hive have advanced much, as they sometimes do, the second swarms issue from twelve to sixteen days afterward. SWAKMESTG. 177 before the issuing of the swarm. The length of time dur- ing which it may be heard, seems also to be governed by the yield of honey ; when that is abundant, it is common for them to issue the next day, but when it is somewhat scarce, they will very often delay three or four days. In such instances, third swarms seldom occur. Piping for third swarms may usually be heard the even- ing after the second has left, though one day commonly intervenes between their issues. VARIATION EST TIME OF SWARMS ISSUING. Here my experience is at variance with many writers, who say there will be an interval of several days between second and third swarms. I do not remember of any in- terval of more than three days, but I have known many to issue in less time, several the next day, and a few on the same day with the second. I once had an instance where a swarm lost its queen, on its first sally, and re- turned to wait for the young ones ; when they were ready an uncommon number of bees was present, and three swarms issued in three days ! On the fourth another came out and returned ; the fifth day it left, making four regu- lar swarms in five days. On the eighth day the fifth swarm left. Although I had never had a fifth swarm be- fore, I expected this from the fact that I heard the piping on the evening subsequent to the fourth swarm. The piping continued in this hive from the evening previous to the first swarm, till the last one had left. Occasionally piping may be heard and no swarm issue. The bees seem to change their mind about swarming, and kill their queens, or allow the eldest one to destroy the others, as is evident from the fact that sometimes swarms are indicated, and none issue. When the piping continues over twenty-four hours, they seldom fail to swarm. I have known in a few instances piping to commence, 8* 178 SWARMING. while, as I supposed, the old queen was yet present, and had not left the hive (on account of bad weather) ; but a swarm issued soon after. Also, I have observed instan- ces of piping when I supposed the old queen lost, at a time when no swarm had been lead out ; and the colony reared young ones to supply her place. This occurred in or near the swarming season, and one or two issues resulted. One case was three weeks in advance of the season, and the swarm was about half the usual size. When a swarm has been out and returned at the last of the swarming season, it is much more likely to re-issue, than if it depended for a leader on an old queen, that had not been out. Such will often issue later in the season than any others. A few have come out as early after the first swarm, as the fourth or fifth day, but all these are exceptions to the general rule. HOW AFTER-SWARMS ISSUE. When after-swarms start, the appearance about the en- trance is altogether different from' that when first-ones issue, unless there is an unusual number of bees. I have said that for a little time beforehand such were in an apparent tumult, etc. But after-swarms seldom give any such notice. One or more of the young queens may sometimes be seen to run out and back several times in a few minutes, in a perfect frenzy, and sometimes fly a short distance and return before the swarm will start. Even after the swarm is in motion she may return and en- ter the hive a moment. The workers seem . more re- luctant to leave, than in first swarms, where a mother instead of a sister is leader. No doubt she finds it neces- sary to exert herself to induce as many as possible to leave with her. A person watching the issue of a second swarm under these circumstances, for the first time, and seeing the queen leave first, would very likely guess that she did so in all swarms. SWAEMIXG. 179 NUMBER OP QUEENS. After-swarms sometimes have as many as six queens. The one containing several, is usually the last from the hive. When nearly all mature at once, and the workers keep them confined, — feeding them of course, — they be- come strong enough to fly, while in the cells. In the con- fusion of swarming, the prisoners are forgotten, and they come out and leave with the rest. DO NOT ALWAYS CHOOSE GOOD WEATHER. These after-swarms are not very particular about the weather; heavy winds, a few clouds, and sometimes a slight sprinkle will not always deter them. Neither are they very precise about the time of day. Italians will is- sue before six A. M. on warm mornings, and after five P. M., and the black bees are often nearly as much out of season. These things should be understood, because when after-swarms are expected, of which the piping will give warning, it behooves us to watch them in weather, and at times, when first ones would not venture to leave. THEY GO FURTHER BEFORE ALIGHTING. It is essential that some one sees them issue, else it is often diificnlt to find the cluster. They are apt to go fur- ther from the parent hive than others ; sometimes fifty rods, and then often settle in two places, high and incon- venient, that distance apart. Let me not be misunderstood ; I do not say they all do so, or even the majority, but a greater proportion of these swarms will do so than of the first. If they cluster in two places, a queen may be in each, and they will remain, and when you have hived one part, you may think you have them all. If one cluster is without a queen, they will join the other, if near; but when distant, they will very likely return to the old hive soon, unless put with the others. 180 SWAEMESTG. PROPRIETY OF RETURNING THEM. Much has been said about returning all after-swarms to the old stock. The advantages will depend on the time of issuing, the yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to have many after-swarms without a liberal yield of honey for the time being, but the continuation of the supply is uncertain. If honey continues plentiful, second and even third swarms, if early, may be hived, and prosper. The apiarian here needs judgment and experience. It is always best, if possible, to have good strong fam- ilies. When after-swarms are late, it is safest to return them, as the old colony will need them to replenish the hive, and prepare for winter. Also, it will be less infested with worms when well provided with bees, and there are more "chances of obtaining box-honey. But the process of returning such, requires some patience and perseverance. I have said that there maybe a dozen young queens in the old stock. Suppose that one or more leaves with the swarm, and you return the whole, there is nothing to pre- vent their leading out the swarm again the next day. Therefore it is policy to retain the queens. It is the least trouble to hive them in the usual way, and let them stand till the next morning. This will save you the perplexity of looking for more than one queen, if there should be more, for all but one will be destroyed by that time. There is a chance also for the parent hive to decide that no more shall issue, and allow all but one to be slain there. When this is the case, and you find the one with the swarm, you will have no further trouble. They should be returned as soon as the next morning, otherwise they might not agree, even in the old home. To return them, and find the queen easily, get a sheet or a wide board a few feet long ; let one end rest on the ground, the other near the entrance that they may enter the hive without flying ; shake the swarm out on the lower end, and they will commence SWABMIN-G. 181 running up towards the hive ; the first one that discovers it will call the others. If they do not perceive it, which sometimes happens, scatter some of them near it, and they will soon be marching in the right direction, when you should look for and secure the queen, if possible. Piping, a few hours later, will give notice, if they intend to issue again. It is evident, if these directions are followed, that they cannot issue many times before their stock of royalty will be exhausted ; and when but one queen remains, the piping will cease, and trouble be at an end. To prevent these after-swarms, some writers recom- mend turning the hive over, and cutting out all the royal cells but one. This I have found impracticable with most stocks. Some of the cells are too near the top to be seen, consequently this cannot always be depended upon. It is somewhat difficult to give a rule for returning these swarms. If I should say return all that issue after June 20th, some seasons might be so late, that a second swarm issuing July 10th might fill the hive and winter well, while in others the first swarms in June might fail to get enough. Also, June 20th in the latitude of New York City, is as late as July 4th farther north. In sections where Buckwheat is raised to any extent, late swarms do more towards filling their hives, than where that is not an important crop. THE MOTH WORM TROUBLES SMALL COLONIES. Should it be thought best to hive after-swarms, and risk the chances, they should receive a little extra attention, after the first week or two, in destroying the worms ; a little timely care may prevent considerable injury. They are apt to construct more comb in proportion to the num- ber of bees, than others; consequently, such combs cannot be properly covered and protected. The moth has an op- 182 swarming. portunity to deposit her eggs on tliein, and will sometimes entirely destroy them. Whenever these swarms issue near enough together, it is best to unite them. I have said that second swarms were generally half as large as the first. By this rule, two second swarms or four third, or one second and two third would contain as many as one first swarm ; if the first and second are of ordinary size, I think it advisable al- ways to return the third. But in large apiaries, it is com- mon for them to issue without any previous warning, just as a first swarm is leaving, and crowd themselves into their company, seeming to be as much at home, as if they were equally respectable. MORE TROUBLE. When two or more of these after-swarms are united, they are apt to be much more troublesome than others. The bees of each swarm are strangers to the queens belonging to the others. Bees usually make it a rule when coming in con- tact with a strange queen, while their own is present, to imprison her, as before described. So many of the bees observe this practice that every queen is soon surrounded. Directly some of the bees want their own queen, and can- not find her ; forthwith consternation prevails throughout the hive. They run to and fro, fly out and return, set up the call for a moment, then perhaps return to some of the mother stocks ; or if by chance there is a newly hived swarm in the yard, that behaves decently, they will join that and get up an excitement there, just because they are in trouble at home. When there is but one queen, and she is at liberty, she has not the sedate majesty of her mother, but seems often to be elated with her position. She will sometimes fly off and return, at others go back to the SWARMING. 183 mother stock when the swarm will follow, and the experi- ment come to a very unsatisfactory termination. Perhaps those that behave so foolishly, have so recently entered society, that they do not know what course of conduct is becoming to them. Whenever they behave in this man- ner, it is well to confine the bees to the hive — giving them air — and keep them prisoners a clay or two, until thorough- ly sobered. Then if they are without a queen, give them one, or the means of rearing one. It may be accepted as a rule, that all after-swarms must be out by the eighteenth day after the first. I never found an exception, unless it may be considered as such when a swarm leaves, seven or eight weeks after the first. But these I consider rather in the light of first swarms, as they issue under similar circumstances, leaving the combs hi the old hive filled with brood, queen cells finished, etc. A hive may cast swarms in June, and a buckwheat-swarm in August, on the same principle. Therefore, bee-keepers having but few hives, will find it useless to watch their bees, when the last of the first swarms came out sixteen or eighteen days before. Much trouble may be thus saved by a little knowledge of facts. Dining my early days in bee-keeping, I was anxious for the greatest possible increase of stocks. I had some that had cast a first swarm, and soon after, clustered out again. I watched them vainly for weeks and months, expecting another swarm. But, had I understood the " modus oper- andi" as the reader may now understand it, my anxiety as well as watching, would have been at an end in a fortnight. As it was, it lasted two months. I found no one to give me any fight on the subject, or even tell me when the swarming season was over, and I came very near watching all summer! 184 SWAEMING. ONE QUEEN DESTROYS OTHERS. When it is decided in family council, that no more swarms are to issue, all but one of the queens are destroy- ed. It is probable that the oldest and strongest dispatches the others, while in the cells, or allows them to issue, and take a fair fight. When rearing Italian queens in the small boxes, it is usu- al to have half a dozen queen-cells on a very small piece of comb. To save these from destruction, all but one must be cut out before any hatch. If the brood given them is just the right age — about four days old — a queen will hatch in ten days, and if the others are not removed, the first one that hatches, makes it her business to destroy the rest. I have often caught them when just out of their own cell, at work at the others. The younger sisters in help- less confinement are slaughtered without mercy. An opening is bitten into the royal cell, and the fatal sting in- flicted in the abdomen of the defenceless queen. If quick and spiteful movements are any indication of hatred, it is here very plainly manifested. The bees en- large the opening and drag out the dead queens. It is probable that all swarming hives manage in this way when it is decided to send out no more swarms, as we find numbers of dead queens about the entrance just at this time; and this may generally be taken as evidence that swarming is over in such hive for the season. Should the stock send out but one swarm, the dead queens may be found about the time, or a little before, you would listen for the piping. Whenever hives containing swarms are full, or nearly so, boxes should be put on without delay, unless the honey season is so nearly over that it is unnecessary. ARTIFICIAL S WARMS. 185 CHAPTER XI. ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. Artificial swarms are those which, are made by driving or dividing. The utility of such swai^ms will depend greatly on the circumstances of the bee-keeper ; the time that he has to attend to regular swarms, and his general knowledge of the subject. There are advantages as well as disadvantages. There is not much difference between the labor of maldng artificial swarms, and of hiving regu- lar issues. If I were sure of but one issue from a hive, and could always attend to the hiving without particular inconvenience, I would prefer natural swarms. But when we depend on these, and perhaps feel particularly anxious for them to issue, some will pertinaciously adhere to the old stock through the whole swarming season. When we have but few hives, and are particularly anxious to increase the number, this indifference to our wishes is very annoy- ing. The other extreme — over swarming — is often still more vexatious. PERPLEXITIES. There are likewise some perplexities with artificial swarms. We do not always take out the requisite num- ber, or we get too great a proportion of old or young bees, and when they are thus improperly divided, they do not always work well at first. One writer says, "artificial swarms, so called, I do not approve of at all, they do not work like the others." I cannot imagine why he should have failed, unless there was a lack of the requisite number of workers in all the departments, such as nurses, wax- workers and gatherers. Whether there is an organic dis- tinction in the bees that fill these stations, or only tempor- ary details for the purpose, I shall not express an opinion. 186 -ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. I know that very young bees act as nurses, but I presume, that as they grow older, they will, if they have an ordinary share of energy, go abroad and collect honey and pollen. WORK WELL. Artificial swarms do work just as well as natural ones, as a general rule. In -fact I never had one, that I thought was less industrious, because of the manner in which it was made. If you wish to be sure of an annual increase, it will be necessary to take the matter in part in your own hand, and make each hive spare a swarm that is in condition to do so. When this is decided upon prompt action is necessary. DO IT IN SEASON. It will not do to " wait and see if they don't swarm," and then do it, and then if they do not fill the hive and store as much surplus as a natural swarm hived four weeks sooner, attribute it to the manner of making the colony. Do it in season, or not at all. Also, it is import- ant that a swarm is not taken at any time, unless the colony is abundantly able to spare it. The ability to de- cide this point requires much observation and experience. It should always be done when there is plenty of honey, unless you expect to feed, and it is usually safer to perform the operation during the swarming season. Without these conditions it is much better to postpone artificial increase till another year. MY FIRST EXPERIENCE. My first experience in making artificial swarms, and in raising queens was not very encouraging. But by comply- ing a little more with the natural requirements of the bee, I have since succeeded satisfactorily. It is stated by nearly every writer, that whenever a colony of bees pos- sessing eggs or young larvae is deprived of its queen, they ARTIFICIAL SWABMS. 187 will not fail to. rear another. This may be taken as a rule, but there are exceptions. The first experiments that I made in this line, came very near proving to me that the exceptions formed the rule. Very soon after I began to keep bees, when I had but few stocks, and was anxious to increase the number, I was perplexed with the failure of some hives to swarm, notwithstanding they were well sup- plied with bees, and exhibited the usual indication, such as clustering out, etc. Others, apparently not so well sup- plied with bees, threw off swarms. Taking the assertions of these authors for facts, I reasoned thus : In all prob- ability there is plenty of eggs and brood in each of those stocks. Why not drive out a portion of the bees with the old queen, and leave about as many as if a swarm had is- sued ? Those left will then raise a queen, and continue the old stock, and I shall double the number. On examination, I found eggs and larvas, and accordingly divided them. Of course, all must be right. Now, thought I, my stocks can be doubled, at least annually. If they do not swarm, I can drive them. My swarms prospered, the old stock seemed industrious, bringing in pollen in abundance, which, at that time, was conclusive evidence that they had a queen, or soon would have. I continued to watch them with much interest, but somehow, after a few weeks, there did not seem to be as many bees in the old hives ; a few days later, I was quite positive of it. I examined the combs and behold ! There was not a cell containing a young bee of any age, nor even an egg in any of these old stocks. My visions of future increase by this means, speedily disappeared about this time. My new swarms, it is true, were in condition for winter, although not full; but the old ones were not, and nothing was gained. I had some honey and a great deal of bee- bread and old black comb. Had I let them alone and put 188 ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. on boxes, I should, probably have obtained twenty-five or thirty pounds of pure honey from each ; besides, the old stocks, even with old comb, would have been better sup- plied with both honey and bees, and altogether much bet- ter stocks for wintering. Here was an important loss, arising simply from ignorance. I looked the bees over carefully, and ascertained to a certainty that none of them had a queen. The few bees left, I smothered in the fall. I then knew of no better way. I had been told that the barbarous use of "fire and brimstone" was part of the " luck" — that a more benevo- leut system would cause them " to run out," etc. I can- not, to this day, account for my want of success. Since then, I have succeeded nineteen times in twenty, under circumstances, apparently precisely similar. The swarming season is certainly the best time, as then most of the stocks are constructing these cells, preparatory to swarming, and there can hardly be a failure with the method recommended. But I shall advise furnishing the old stock with a queen before they can raise one, either by giving them a cell ready to hatch, or a laying queen. It is very plain that a queen from a finished cell must be ready to deposit eggs several days sooner, than one which is raised in the hive, after the necessity for one exists. It is also clear, if we have a dozen queens depositing eggs by June 10th, that our bees are increasing faster on the whole, than if but half that number are engaged in it for a month later. There is yet another advantage. The sooner a young queen can take the place of the old one in maternal duties the less time will be lost in breeding, the more bees there will be to defend the combs from the moth, and the sooner the guarantee for surplus honey. HOW TO MAKE ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare a swarm ; if bees are on the outside, raise the hive on ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 189 wedges, sprinkle them with a little water to drive them in, and disturb them gently with a stick. Now smoke and invert it, setting an empty hive over. If the two hives are of one size, and have been made by a workman, there will be no chance for the bees to escape, except through the holes in the side, these you will stop. With a light hammer or stick strike the hive a few times lightly, and let it remain five minutes. This is very essential, as it allows the bees to fill themselves with honey. All regular swarms go forth so laden. A supply is necessary when bad weather soon follows. The amount of honey carried out of a stock by a good swarm, together with the weight of the bees, (which, ia not much,) varies from" five to eight pounds. When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to drive them into the upper hive, by striking the lower one rapid- ly from five to ten minutes. A loud humming will mark then- first movement. When you think half or two-thirds are resence of the disease at the earliest possible moment. CAUTION. As no part of the breeding season is exempt, the stocks should be carefully observed during spring, and early part of summer, with reference to increase of bees. When any are much behind others in this respect, make an examina- tion immediately. The movable comb hive is readily ex- amined by lifting out the combs, but the box-hive must be inverted, and the bees smoked out of the way. EXAMINATION. Attention must be directed to the breeding-cells ; with a sharp pointed knife, proceed to cut off the ends of some that appear to be the oldest, bearing in mind that young DISEASED BROOD. 219 bees are always white, until some time after they assume the chrysalis form. Therefore if a larva? is found of a dark color, it is dead. Should a dozen or two such be found, the stock sheuld be condemned at once, and all the bees driven into an empty hive. On no consideration put them into empty combs, as they would be likely to keep some of the honey for their brood. If it is desirable to put them in a hive containing comb, they may be transferred to it after they have been in an empty one long enough to consume all the honey they have carried with them. (Di- rections giving for driving in Chap, xiii.) If honey is scarce at the time, they should be fed. But if it is discov- ered too late for honey to be collected, it will hardly pay to feed them. The honey from the old hive may be used, if the poison is first destroyed. This may be done by scalding. Add a quart of water to about ten pounds of honey, stir it well, heat it to the boiling point, and carefully remove all the scum. Stocks, in which the disease has not progressed too far, will generally swarm. Three weeks after the first swarm, is the proper time to examine them. I make it a rule to inspect all my stocks at this period. It is easily done, as about all the healthy brood, except drones, should be matured in that time. By perseverance in these rules, I allow no stocks to dwindle away until they are plundered by others. If all bee-keepers were equally careful this disease would only occasionally be found. This is like a careless farmer, allowing a noxious weed to mature seeds, to be wafted by winds to the lands of a careful neighbor, who must fortify himself to continual vigilance, or endure a foul pest. So with a successful apiarian, in sections where it has not appeared, he must be continually on the watch. Vigilance is the price of success. Again, after the breeding season is over, in the fall, 220 DISEASED BROOD. every stock should he thoroughly inspected, and cdl diseased ones condemned for stock hives. Even if it should take the last one, it would pay to procure healthy ones instead. Persons wishing to eat the honey from such hives, will ex- perience no bad effects from it, if they are careful to re- move the brood combs, as they take it out of the hive. Careless bee-keepers, when their hives are robbed, feel regret, or are more often vexed with some one, at the re- sult of their own carelessness. The real cause of com- plaint more often belongs to the owners of the robbing bees, as the honey obtained in this way, probably carries with it more mischief than can be eradicated in a twelve month. ASSUMED KNOWLEDGE. It is interesting to read the descriptions of this disease by the would-be bee-doctors, who have never had a case during their " long " experience. They have heard of it, somewhere, and forthwith they know all about it, prescribe remedies, and recommend antidotes. An article appeared in an agricultural paper not long since, with alarming fea- tures. After describing the disease, he gave as the only safe remedy, burning the hive, killing the bees, and bury- ing the remainder of the contents ; proving that he knevj nothing of the subject, and had copied from some unrelia- ble source. A person, who will advise such waste, should not be accepted as a teacher of the people. To say he ad- vised it ignorantly, without due consideration, does not help the matter. Why did he assume to teach what he knew nothing about ? What is the use of killing a colony of bees, when, if attended to in season, they may be con- verted into a good stock, worth several dollars? Such hives often contain several pounds of beautiful honey, — why bury it ? And why waste one or two pounds of good wax which may be readily exchanged for gold ? ANGER OF BEES. 221 He likewise cautioned purchasers of Italian queens, who live in districts where the disease has not appeared, to never procure them from a section where it exists ; because if the little combs that are sent with the queen should contain any honey from such a hive, " the disease would go with it, as sure as fate." I have never known such a result in a single instance. Neither have I ever found an experienced ajriarian, one who kneio what he was saying, who advanced such an idea. Should a full colony, badly affected, be sent into a district where it never appeared, there is no need of its being extended. If the bees are simply transferred to 'an empty hive, and the contents secured from pillage, it would go no further. There would be no loss, except in transferring. CHAPTER XV. ANGER OF BEES. CAUSES OF IRRITABILITY. Keeping bees good natured, offers a pretty fair subject for ridicule, for it seems rather too absurd to talk of teach- ing a bee anything. Nevertheless, it is worth while to think of it a little. Most of us know, that by injudicious training, horses, cattle, dogs, etc., may be rendered ex- tremely vicious. If there is no perceptible analogy between them and bees, experience proves that they too, may be made ten times more irritable than they are naturally. Nature has provided them with weapons to defend their stores, and combativeness sufficient to use them when ne- cessary. If they were powerless to repel an enemy, there are a thousand lazy depredators, man not excepted, who would prey upon the fruits of their industry, leaving them 222 A^GER OF BEES. to starve. Had it been so arranged, this industrious insect would probably have long since become extinct. In seasons when buckwheat abounds, they seem to mani- fest more than usual irritability during its bloom. As soon as a stock is pretty well supplied with this world's goods, like some bipeds, they become haughty, aristocratic and insolent. A great many things are construed into insults, that, in their days of adversity, would pass unno- ticed ; but now it is becoming and due to their honor to show "a just resentment." It behooves us, therefore, to ascertain what are considered as insults. First, all quick motions about them, such as running, striking, etc., are noticed. If our movements among them are slow, cau- tious, and respectful, we are often let to pass unmolested, having manifested a becoming deportment. Yet the exhalations from some persons appear to be very offensive, as they attack some much sooner than others, though I ■apprehend there is not so great a difference as many sup- pose. Whenever an attack is made, and a sting follows, the venom thus imparted to the air is perceived by others at some distance, who will immediately approach the scene, and more stings are likely to follow. The breathing of a person into the hive, or among them when clustered outside, is considered in the tribunals of their insect wisdom, as the greatest indignity. A sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly turning up the hive is an- other. After being once thoroughly irritated in this way, they remember it a long time, and are continually on the alert ; the moment the hive is touched they are ready to salute a person's face. When slides of tin or zinc are used to cut off the communication between the hives and boxes, some of the bees are apt to be crushed, or cut in two. This they remember and retaliate as occasion offers ; and it may be when quietly walking in the apiary. ANGER OF BEES. 223 HOW THEY MAKE AN ATTACK. I iniist disagree with any one who says that we always have warning before being stung. Two-thirds of them sting without giving the least intimation. At other times, when fully determined on vengeance, I have had them strike my hat, and remain a moment endeavoring to effect their object. In this case, I have warning to hold down my face to protect it from a second attempt which is quite sure to follow. As they fly horizontally, the face held in that position is not so liable to be attacked.* When they are not so thoroughly angry, they often ap- proach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing around very provokingly for several minutes in close proximity to one's ears and face, apparently to ascertain our intentions. If nothing hostile or displeasing is perceived, they will generally leave ; but should a quick motion, or disagree- able breath offend them, the dreaded result is not long de- layed. Too many people are apt to construe these threat- ening manifestations into positive intentions to sting. NEVER IRRITAELE WHEN AFTER HONEY. They never make an attack while in quest of honey, or on their return, until they have entered the hive. It is only in the hive and its vicinity that we may expect them to manifest this irascible temperament. It may be sub- dued in a great measure, if not entirety, by working quietly and using smoke. Any person, having the care of bees, should be armed with this powerful weapon. As bees are not much affected with smoke wdiile flying in the air, but will there have their own way, we must teach them a proper deportment in the hive. * Striking them down renters them ten times more furious. Not in the least daunted they return to the attack. Not the least show of fear is perceived. Even after losing their sting, they obstinately refuse to desist. The best way is to walk as quietly as possible to the shelter of some bush or to the house. They will seldom go inside of the door. 224 .ANGER OF BEES. Those who are accustomed to smoking will find a pipe or cigar very convenient here. But I would not advise any one to make this an excuse for forming a had habit.* SMOKER DESCRIBED. Get a tin tube five-eighths of an inch diameter, five or six inches in length ; make stoppers of wood to fit each end, two and a half or three inches long, tapered at the ends. With a nail-gimlet make a hole through them lengthwise ; when put together, it should be about ten inches in length. On one end make a notch, that it may be held with the teeth, which is the most convenient way, as you will ofteu want to use both hands. When ready to operate, fill the tube with tobacco, ignite it, and put in the stoppers ; by blowing through it, you keep the tobacco burning, while the smoke issues at the other end. This requires blowing almost constantly to keep it burning. I have another mode of using tobacco which is very conve- nient. Take a piece of old cotton or linen cloth eighteen inches long by six wide. Spread over it a layer of tobacco one-fourth of an inch thick. Roll up and fasten with a needle and thread. Light one end and it will continue burning as long as required. The smoke of decayed wood, commonly known as spunk or touch-wood, is also useful — but there are cases of extreme irritability, where it does not seem to be as efficient as tobacco. We can now sub- due these combative propensities, or render them harmless; turn their anger to submission, and force them to yield their treasures to the hands of the spoiler without an effort of resistance. When once overpowered, they seem to lose^ all knowledge of their power, and no slave can be more submissive. * I continued the practice for years for the mere convenience of the smoke when operating among my bees. But by using some simple substitutes which I will describe, I have managed bees for seven years without pipe or cigar, and much more to my satisfaction. AJSTGEK OP BEES. 225 ITALIAN'S LESS DOCILE. After the effect of the smoke has passed off, their former animosity will return. Should any resentment be shown on raising a hive, blow in the smoke ; they will immedi- ately retreat, "begging pardon." The Italians, after ap- parent submission, will return to the attack several times. It often requires one to smoke them, while another operates. If you wish to take off a box, raise it just enough to blow the smoke under ; you can replace it with another without trouble, and a little smoke will keep the bees out of the way. Those in the box are all submission ; the box can be carried away and handled as you please, without their becoming irritated, until they once more get home, and then are much more amiable than if the box had been taken without the smoke. They do not seem to realize anything concerning the transaction. When bees are to be transferred to a new hive, it is un- necessary to be so very particular about the escape of a single bee ; no fears need be felt of such as get out. In driving, the loud humming indicates their fear ; the up- per hive can then be raised safely. After being thus driven out, they may be pushed about with impunity, and will still remain quiet. In short, the use of smoke on all occasions where they would be likely to be disturbed by our meddling with them, has a tendency to keep dormant their combative propensities. When these have never been aroused, there is much less danger of their attacks, while walking or looking among them. BEE-CHAKMS UNRELIABLE. As for advertised "Bee-Charms" I would recommend very moderate investments until they have been tested. And you will soon have " enough and to spare," unless you get a different article from any I have ever seen. 10* 226 ANGER OF BEES. The sting of the bee, as it appears to the naked eye, is a tiny instrument of war, so small, indeed, that its wound would pass unheeded by all the larger animals, were it not for the poison introduced at the same instant. It has been described as being " composed of three parts, a sheath and two darts. Both the darts are furnished with small points or barbs like a fish-hook," that hold it when thrust into the flesh; 'the bee being compelled to leave it behind. DOES ITS LOSS PROVE FATAL? It is said that " to the bee itself this mutilation proves fatal." This is another assertion so often repeated, that perhaps we might as well admit it ; as it would be difficult to disprove it. Think of the impossibility of keeping our eye, for five minutes, on a bee that is flying about, after it has left its sting. Yet there are some persons, so very particular about what they accept as fact, that they would require that a bee should be watched till it died, before they could be positively sure that the loss of its sting caused its death. They might reason from analogy, and say that other insects possess so little sensation that they have been known to recover, after much more extensive mutilation — that beetles have lived for months under cir- cumstances that would instantly kill some of the higher animals — that spiders often reproduce a leg, and even lob- sters sometimes replace a lost claw, etc. I have endeavored to show that there is no great reason for fear in our operations among bees, yet it is idle to sup- pose that all will manage successfully without some means of defence, especially when dealing with the Italians. The face and hands being most exposed, need some protection. Thick woolen mittens or rubber gloves are best ; the sting is generally left when thrust into a leather glove. ANGER OF BEES. 227 PROTECTION. To protect the face, procure one and a half yards of thin muslin or calico, sew the ends together, and gather one edge on a rubber cord to fit the crown of a hat; cut out an arm hole on each side, and put a string in the bottom to gather it close to the body, or make it shorter and tie around the neck. As I do not expect you to work, in the dark, Ave will have a piece cut out in front, and coarse lace, or fine wire-cloth inserted. That which is just fine enough to prevent a bee . 26. — BEE HAT. from passing, is best, as it gives a better chance to see. To keep the lace from falling against the face, s%w a wire around it. To facilitate smoking, I have a tube of some convenient material, several inches in length, passing through the lace or wire-cloth, one end of which can be taken in the mouth, and with which the smoke can be directed wherever desired. Whenever only a partial protection is necessary, a hand- kerchief is suitable, it is always at hand, and can be put on in a moment. Throw it over the head, letting it fall around the neck and shoulders, covering all but the face. The hat can be put on over it. REMEDIES FOR STINGS. It is difficult to tell which are the best remedies for stings. There is so much difference in the effect upon different individuals, and upon different parts of the body, as well as in the depth a sting reaches, that remedies effec- tual in one instance, will be virtueless in another. 228 ENEMIES OF BEES. For a number of years, I have used none whatever for myself, and the effect is no worse, nor even as bad as for- merly. (It is said that this is because the system is hard- ened to the effects of the poison.) Among the remedies recommended, are saleratus and water, salt and water, soft-soap and salt, a raw onion cut in two and one-half ap- plied, mud or clay mixed wet and changed often, tobacco wet and thoroughly rubbed to get the strength, and con- stant applications of cold water. To allay the smarting, the application of tobacco is strongly urged, and cold wa- ter is spoken of with equal favor to prevent the swelling. When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and water is said to prevent serious consequences. Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, it is hardly necessary to say that the sting should be pulled out as soon as practicable. CHAPTER XVI. ENEMIES OF BEES. Among the enemies of bees, are included rats, mice, birds, toads and insects. But some of these are probably not guilty of any actual mischief. I strongly suspect that the spirit of destructiveness is altogether too active in many people. There are some farmers, so short sighted and vindictive, that, were it in their power, they would destroy a whole class of birds, because some of them had picked a few cherries, or dug out a few hills of corn, "when, at the same time, they are indebted to their activity in devour- ing worms, insects, etc., that would otherwise have destroyed entire crops. It will be well, therefore, to see if we are to be losers or gainers by an indiscriminate slaughter, before we pass sentence on these reputed pests. ENEMIES OF BEES. 229 RATS AND MICE. Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold weather. The entrances of all hives standing out, are much too small to admit a rat. No damage need be ap- prehended from them except when the hives are in the house. They appear to be fond of honey, and when it is accessible, will eat several pounds in a short time. Mice will often enter the hive when on the stand, and make extensive depredations. Sometimes, after cutting a space in the combs, they will make their nests there. The animal heat created by the bees, will make a snug warm place for winter quarters. The " deer mouse" seems to be particularly fond of the bees, while those belonging to the house, appear to relish the honey. Whether they take live bees, or only such as are already dead, I cannot say. Only a part of the bee is- eaten, and judging from the frag- ments left, they must consume quite a number. Whether they take bees or honey, a little care to prevent their de- predations, is well worthy of bestowal. As rats and mice have so long been condemned and sentenced as universal plagues, without any redeeming traits, I will say nothing in their favor, and am perfectly willing that they shall be hanged until dead. A WORD FOR THE KING-BIRD. But for some of the birds accused of preying upon bees, I would say a word. The king-bird stands at the head of the list of feathered depredators. With a fair trial he will be found guilty, though not so heinously criminal as many suppose. I think we shall find him guilty of taking only drones. In the afternoon of a fair day, he may be seen perched upon some dry branch of a shrub or tree near the apiary, watching for his victims. I have shot him, and examined his crop, after seeing him devour a goodly num- ber, but in every instance the bees were so crushed that it 230 ENEMIES OP BEES. was impossible to distinguish workers from drones. We are told of great numbers of workers being thus found. It may be so, or it may be thus represented by prejudice. The brutal desire of taking life is so strong with some, that a morbid antipathy is allowed to take the place of justice, and a proper defence is not allowed in cases where the suffering party has not the power to enforce it. If the king-bird devoured workers instead of drones, why does he not visit the apiary long before noon, and fill his crop with them ? But instead, he waits until afternoon ; if no drones are flying, he watches quietly till one appears, al- though workers may be out by hundreds. If it is asked how they distinguish them, I would suggest that instinct, which teaches most animals the proper kinds of food, might direct the birds in this case. CHICKENS WILL EAT DRONES. I have seen chickens which would stand by the hive and devour every drone, as soon as he touched the board, while workers would pass in scores untouched. Whether this loss of the drones is a disadvantage or otherwise, de- pends entirely upon circumstances. If there is a scarcity of honey, the fewer drones' the better. It is a matter of so little importance to the bees, that it would probably not pay for powder to shoot the depredators. Martins, and a kind of swallow, are said to be guilty of taking bees on some occasions, but as they pursue them on the wing, the remai'ks concerning the king-bird are ap- plicable to them. CAT-BIRD ACQUITTED. The cat-bird also comes in for a share of censure. It is said " he will get right clown by the hive, and pick up bees by the hundred." Yet, in the face of this charge, I am disposed to acquit him. With the closest observation, ENEMIES OP BEES. 231 I find him picking up only young and immature bees, such as are thrown out from the combs. They may be seen about the apiary, as soon as the first rays of light make objects visible, looking for their morning supply, as well as frequently during the day. Should an unlucky worm be in sight just then, looking up a place to spin a cocoon, or a moth be reposing on some corner of the hive, its fate is at once decided. Before destroying this bird, it would be well to judge from actual observation of the truth of the charges against him, else we may "destroy a friend instead of a foe." THE TOAD. A toad is discovered near the hives, and is forthwith executed as a bee-eater. Says one — " he ought to be killed for his looks, if nothing else." He is thus often sacrificed really on account of his appeai*ance, on the nominal pre- tence that he is a villain. After he is despatched, the com- plaint is made that the bugs that he might have destroyed, " have eaten up all the little cucumbers and cabbages !" His food is probably small insects. I had strong doubts of his being a bee-eater for a long time after the first edi- tions of this work were published, notwithstanding the positive assurance by some of my bee-keeping friends, that he was guilty. I watched closely for years, without dis- covering anything to confirm the assertion. At last, one dark, cloudy day, when but few bees were stirring, I found a corpulent fellow perched upon a stand, close to the entrance, seeming very much at home, and gazing at nothing with the most stupid indifference. A bee lit be- side him, when after a slight motion of the eye, his mouth opened, and closed like a flash of lightning. The bee was gone ! — his long flexible tongue had deposited it beyond the reach of help. Again he was motionless, and mute as a stone, waiting 232 ENEMIES OE BEES. for another victim with the most provoking complacency. I found in his stomach more than a dozen which he had al- ready swallowed ; they were dead, but not mutilated. Notwithstanding his shabby ingratitude in impudently committing the crime before my very face, after fooling me so long with his innocent looks, and allowing me to plead his case for years, I am going to hand him over to the judge with a strong "recommendation to mercy." I trust he will reform, and not cultivate a taste for beautiful Italians. When he can control his appetite, so as to be content with the delicacies that the garden affords, he may rise in our estimation. He can be excluded from the apiary, if desired, by a close fence, a foot in height. BLACK WASP. But little can be said in favor of the black wasps that visit the hives in the sunny days of spring. They seem to have no other object than to tease and irritate the bees. I never could discover that they entered the hive for pur- poses of plunder. They have frequent battles with the bees, but I never saw any bees devoured, or carried off, or even killed, although sad havoc is sometimes reported. After the first of June, they are seldom troublesome. The yellow wasps or hornets that are around in autumn, are of but little account ; their object is honey which they take when th»3y can, but are not apt to enter the hive among the bees. ANTS— A WORD EST THEIR FAVOR. Ants come in for a share of condemnation. These in- dustrious little insects shall have my efforts for a fair hear- ing. Many bee-keepers are wholly ignorant, most of the time, of the real condition of their stocks. Many causes, independent of ants, induce a reduction of population. ENEMIES OF BEES. 233 Suppose the bees are so reduced as to leave the combs un- protected, and the ants enter and appropriate some of the honey. The owner comes along just then, and sees them engaged : " Ha, you are the rascals who have destroyed my bees," he exclaims, without a thought of looking for causes beyond jDresent appearances. They are often un- justly accused by the farmer, of injuring his little trees, by causing the tender leaves to curl and wither. Inquiries are often made in agricultural papers for means of destroy- ing them, when the real cause of the mischief is the Aphi- des, that are upon the leaves and stalks in hundreds, robbing them of their important juices, and secreting a fluid highly prized by the ants. The habits of the small black ants give rise to suspicion of mischief. They live in communities of thousands, having their nests in old walls, old timber, or in the earth. From these nests a string of ants may be sometimes traced for rods, going after, and returning with food. During wet weather, such as would make the earth, and many other places too damp and cold for a nest, they look out for bet- ter quarters. The top or chamber of our bee-hives affords a desirable shelter. The animal heat from the bees renders it perfectly comfortable. How can we blame them for choosing a location so completely supplying all their wants? But the careless observer discovering their train to and fro, from their nest on the hive, exclaims : " Why, I have seen them going in a continual stream to the hive after honey ;" when a little scrutiny would show that the nest was on the top of the hive, and they were going elsewhere for food, not one to be seen entering the hive among the bees for honey. When honey is unprotected by .bees, and left where they can have access, they will naturally carry off some, but it may be easily secured. 234 ENEMIES OP BEES. Spiders are of course a considerable annoyance to the apiarian, as well as to the bees ; not so much on account of the number of bees consumed, as from their habit of spinning a web about the hive, that will occasionally take a moth, but will probably entangle fifty bees the while.* They are probably in fear of the bees, or else, they do not relish the bee as food, as one caught in the morning is fre- quently untouched during the day. This web is often ex- actly before the entrance, entangling the bees as they go out and return, irritating and hindering them greatly, though they often esccipe after repeated struggles. I have removed a web from the same place, every morning for a week, that was renewed at night with astonishing persever- ance. The redeeming qualities of the spider are few, and are more than balanced by its evil propensities. Their sagacity will sometimes find a place of concealment, not easily discovered. At the approach of cold weather, the box or chamber of the hive, being a little warmer than other places, will attract a great many there to "deposit their eggs. Little piles of webbing may be seen attached to the top of the hive, or sides of boxes. These contain eggs for the next year's brood. This is the time to destroy them, and save trouble for the future. If we combine into one phalanx all the depredators yet named, and compare their ability for mischief, with that of tb.e wax-moth, we shall find their powers of destruction but feeble in comparison. From the moth herself, we would have nothing to fear were it not for her progeny ; a hundred or thousand vile worms, whose food is princi- pally wax or comb. * Not long since, an eminent apiarian recommended the spider as an assistant in destroying the moth. ENEMIES OE BEES. 235 As the instincts of the flesh-fly direct her to a putrid carcass to deposit her eggs, that her offspring may have their proper food, so the moth seeks the hive containing combs, where the natural food of her progeny is at hand. During the day a rusty brown miller, with wings close to the body, may be often seen lying perfectly motionless, on the corner of a hive, or on the under edge of the top, where it projects over. They are more frequent at the corners than anywhere else, one-third of their length pro- jecting beyond it, appearing much like a sliver on the edge of a board that is somewhat weather-beaten. Fig. 27. — BEE MOTH — TWO MALES AND ONE FEMALE. Their color so closely resembles old wood, that I have no doubt their enemies are often deceived, and they thus escape with their lives. As soon as darkness shuts out the view, and there is no danger of their movements being discovered, they throw off their inactivity, and commence searching for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the stock that has not bees sufficient to keep them from the comb. Although their larva? generally has a skin that the bee cannot pierce with its sting, it is not so with the moth, and they seem to be aware of the fact, for whenever a bee approaches, they dart away with a speed ten times greater 236 ENEMIES OF BEES. than that of any bee disposed to follow. They enter the hive, and dodge out in a moment either from fear of the bees, or from having actually encountered them. Now it needs no argument to show, that when our stocks are well protected, there must be a poor chance for depositing eggs upon the combs, which instinct teaches them is the proper place. But they must leave them somewhere. WHERE THEIR EGGS ARE DEPOSITED. When driven from all the combs within, the next best places are the cracks and flaws about the hive, that are lined with propolis ; and the dust and chips that fall on the floor-board of a young swarm not full. This last material is mostly wax, and answers very well instead of comb. The eggs will hatch here, and the worms sometimes ascend to the comb, hence the necessity of keeping the bottom brushed off clean. It will prevent those hatched on the Fig. 19. — WORM GALLERY IN THE COMB. ' bottom from going up, also prevent the bees from taking up any eggs on their feet, if this should happen to be the method by which they get among the combs of a populous stock. They are often detected there, and I can conceive of no other means by which they can be deposited. A ENEMIES OP BEES. 237 worm lodged in the comb makes his way either to the cen- tre, or between the heads of the young bees in the cells and the sealing, and as he proceeds, eats a passage, lining it with a shroud of silk, and gradually enlarging it, as he increases in size. When combs are filled with honey, they work on the surface, eating only the sealing. In very weak families, this silken passage is left un- touched, but is re- moved by all strong colonies. I have found Fig. 28.-WORM GALLERY REMOVED FROM ft asser ted that "the THE COMB. ill ii worms would be all immediately destroyed by the bees were it not for a kind of dread of touching them, until compelled by necessity." As the facts which led to this conclusion are not given, and I can find none confirming it, perhaps I shall be ex- cused for being " of little faith." On the contrary, I find to all appearance, an instinctive antipathy to all intruders, and they immediately remove them when possessing the power. WORMS SOMETIMES WORK IX THE CENTRE OF COMBS. When a worm is in the centre of a comb filled with brood, its passage is not at first discovered. The bees, to get it out, must bite away half the thickness of the comb, removing the brood in one or two rows of cells, sometimes for several inches. This will account for the number of immature bees found on the floor-board at morning, in the spring ; as well as in stocks and swarms but partially pro- tected after the swarming season. BEES MUTILATED BY WEB. Sometimes a half dozen young bees nearly mature will be removed alive, all webbed together, fastened by legs, wings, etc. All their efforts to break loose prove unavail- 238 ENEMIES OP BEES. ing. Others may be seen running about with their wings mutilated, part of their legs eaten off, or tied together. These are often the first symptoms of worms at this season. (July and August.) Although unfavorable, it might be worse. It shows that the bees are not yet discouraged, that when they find the worms present, they have still sufficient energy to make an effort to rid themselves of the nuisance. Should the apiarian now give them a little as- sistance for a few days, they will soon be in a prosperous condition. The hive should be frequently raised, and ev- erything brushed out clean. If a new swarm part full presents these indications, it should be turned over, per- haps, once a week, till the worms are mastered, and the corners inside examined for the cocoons which may be easily detached and destroyed. In turning over a hive part full, in warm weather, you should first observe the position of the combs, and let the edges rest against the side of the hive, otherwise they may bend, and break loose when the hive is again set up. When a hive is full of combs, the edges are usually more firmly attached, and it is of less consequence which way it is turned ; yet in very warm weather the honey will run out of drone cells, if perpendicular. BEES FASTENED IN THE CELL. In very small swarms, hundreds of young bees may be frequently seen with their heads out of the cells, endeavor- ing to escape, but firmly held inside by moth webs. I have known a few instances in such circumstances, where it appeared as if the bees had designedly cut off the whole sheet of comb, and let it drop, thereby ridding themselves of all farther trouble. ENEMIES OP BEES. 239 DIFFERENT APPEARANCE IN OLD STOCKS. But when the bees in old stocks make no effort to dis- lodge the enemy or his works, the case is somewhat desperate. We must look for something entirely different from the foregoing symptoms. But few young bees will be found. In their place we shall find the fosces of the worms dropped on the board. The chips dropped by the bees, in biting off the covering of the cells, to get at the honey, closely resemble them. To detect the difference requires close inspection. The color of the foeces varies with the color of the combs on which the worms feed, from white to brown and black. The size of these grains will vary in proportion to the size of the worm, from a mere speck to nearly as large as a jnn head ; shape cylin- drical, with obtuse ends, length about twice the diameter. By the quantity we can judge of the number of worms. If the hive is full of combs, the lower ends may appear perfect, while the middle or upper part is sometimes a mat of webs. Whenever our stocks have become reduced from over- swarming or other causes, the ravages of worms are to be expected. Here is another important reason for knowing the actual condition of our bees at all times ; we can de- tect the operations of the worms very soon after they commence. In some instances we can save the stock by breaking out most of the combs, leaving just enough to be covered by the bees. When success attends this operation, it must be performed before the worms have made a per- manent lodgment. When the stock is weak, and appear- ances indicate the presence of many worms, it will be the least trouble in the end, and generally, the safest method, to drive out the bees at once, and secure the honey and wax. The bees may do a little, if put into a new hive, but if they should do nothing, it would be no worse than to leave them in the old hive till the worms had destroyed 240 ENEMIES OE BEES. all, and matured a few thousand moths in addition to those otherwise produced, thereby multiplying the chances of damage to other stocks a thousand fold. It is probably remembered that I said, when bees are removed from a hive in warm weather, that if the hive were not infested with worms at the time, it soon would be, unless smoked with sulphur. WORJIS GROW LARGER WHEN UNDISTURBED. In a hive thus left without bees, the worms will grow one-half or two two-thirds larger than when their right to -^ the comb is disputed. In one case IBB, they often make their growth, vS^ and actually wiud up in their cocoon, when less than an inch Fig. 1.— MOTH-WORM. . ■, ,, . ,, , , ,, .,, ° in length; m the other, they will quietly fatten till they are an inch and a half long, and as large as a pipe-stem. When first hatched from the egg it is difficult to dis- cern them with the naked eye. Their rapidity of growth depends as much, or more, on the temperature in which they are, than upon their good living. A few days of hot weather, may develop the full-grown worm, while it would require weeks and even months in a lower temperature. The worm, after jgh spinning its co- 'IhS coon, soon changes / ;/ flBk into a chrysalis, -§^^'^f ■f !: ir , and remains inac- ? ^g|j|X tive for several '*liSgm> days, when it makes an opening Fig. 29.— cocoons of the moth worm. in one end, and crawls out. The time necessary for this transformation is also governed by the temperature, al- though, I think but few ever pass the winter in this state. ENEMIES OP BEES. 241 A moth will rarely be found before the end of May, and not many are seen till the middle of June ; but after this time they are more numerous till the end of the season. FREEZING DESTROYS THEM. It is well demonstrated that the moth, its eggs, larva?, etc., cannot pass the winter without warmth sufficient to prevent freezing. It can be shown thus. Take all the bees out of a hive in the fall, and without disturbing the honey and comb, put it in a cold chamber where it can freeze thoroughly. In the following March, introduce bees, and when not contiguous to a stock containing worms, not a single worm will be produced before the middle of June, or until the eggs of some moth matured in another hive have had time to hatch. Such hives may be kept for swarms, without any appearance of worms. The discovery that Avorms and eggs can be frozen to death, has led to a plan by which the whole race of moths can be exterminated from an apiary, and only re- appear from those of neighbors. When aided by mov- able combs, it is entirely practicable. I have tried it to some extent, but since learning that the Italians resisted the moth so much more effectually than the natives, I have not practiced it extensively. EXTERMINATION OP THE MOTH. It is simply to expose the combs, free from bees, to a temperature of 18° below freezing, for ten to twenty hours after they are once thoroughly cold. To describe more minutely, I would say that during December or early in January, before the bees have much brood, is the best time. Take the hive to a dark room, using artificial light to keep the bees from flying. Take out one comb, with honey enough to last for several days, and put it in an empty hive. Set over this, another empty one of the same size, 11 242 ENEMIES OF BEES. ■without top or bottom. Take out the next frame, and hold it down in the top hive, and shake or brush the bees into the lower one. As the frames should be put back into the hive in the same relative position, it is well to number them before any are removed. When the bees have been taken from all the combs in turn, the latter may be put aAvay to freeze. Each comb should be separated from the others, at least several inches, unless they can have plenty of time to freeze. Combs, close together as they are in the hive, will re- main warm a long time. After being sufficiently frozen, they must be warmed for several hours before they are in proper condition to receive the bees. The comb left with the bees must undergo the same process. If preferred, pne half the combs may be taken first, and then changed for the other half. In case you have more good colonies than you care to keep, you may kill the bees, freeze the combs, and transfer the colonies into them to remain ; it will save transferring once. The bees, not comprehending what all the shaking is a- bout, will become very indignant at the unnecessary abuse, especially when it is repeated at the second transfer. Could a cheap freezing mixture of proper intensity be applied for a length of time sufficient to freeze to the cen- tre, the operation might be performed in November, or as soon as all the brood is hatched. If all the bee-keepers in a neighborhood, town or county, could be induced to do this perseveringly for a year or two, it is plain that the extermination would be so nearly complete, that it would take a long time for the moths to regain their former position. Any one situated a goodly distance from neighboring bees, would find the summer pretty well advanced before there was even any appearance of moths. What the dif- ference would be, on the average, in the prosperity of our ENEMIES OF BEES. 243 bees, betwen those free from moths, and those, as ordinarily troubled with them, must be guess-work. It is evident that it is sometimes not less than one-fourth or one-third. These remarks are with reference to the black bees. The Italians take care of themselves so well that much trouble in this respect is unnecessary. SELDOM ENTIRELY EXEMPT EST ORDINARY MANAGEMENT. But hives in which bees are wintered in the usual way, are seldom or never exempt. It is probably impossible to winter bees without preserving some eggs, or a few worms, at the same time. The perfect moth probably never sur- vives the winter; the only place in which the chrysalis would be safe, I think must be in the vicinity of the bees, and a good stock will never allow it there, — but eggs it would appear are suffered to remain. In the fall, at the approach of cold weather, the bees are apt to leave the ends of the combs exposed. The moth can enter, and de- posit her eggs directly upon them ; these together with what are carried in by means before suggested, will insure a good supply for the coming season. The warmth generated by the bees will keep these eggs from freezing. When warm weather approaches in the spring, those nearest the bees probably hatch first, com- mence their depredations, and are removed by the bees. As the bees increase and occupy more comb, more worms are hatched. In this way, even a small family will hatch and get rid of all the eggs that happen to be in their combs, and not be destroyed. This is the time that the apiarian may be of service in destroying the worms, as they are thrown on the floor by the bees. In July or August a single moth may enter an exposed hive, and deposit her burden of several hundred eggs as in the other case, but the heat from the bees is now unneces- sary to hatch them. The weather at this season will make 244 ENEMIES OP BEES. any part of the hive warm enough to set her whole brood at work at once, and in three weeks all may be destroyed.* This, and the fact that more moths exist now than before, may account for the greater number of stocks destroyed at this season. Yet, it is considered extremely bad man- agement to allow honey or combs to be devoured by this disgusting creature. It is necessary to know the condition of the stocks to prevent their getting the start. These duties should be fully considered before we take the re- sponsibility of the care of bees. The only time when we can rest and feel safe is when we know that all our stocks are full of bees. Even the moth- proof hive containing combs will be scented out by the moth when there are no bees to guard it. An argument to show that a moth can go where a bee can, is unneces- sary, and a little observation will prove that her eggs sometimes go where she is not allowed. REMEDIES. But as we cannot always have our bees in proper condi- tion, it is well to adopt some of the means recommended to diminish the number of moths. In July and August it is a good plan to put a few pieces of old dry combs near the hives, in a box or other place, as a decoy, where the moth may have access. She will deposit a great many of her eggs here, instead of in the hive, and they can be easily destroyed. Make it a rule to destroy all the worms that can be found at any time, particularly in spring ; like- wise, all cocoons. A great many worms can be enticed to web up under a trap of elder, when it is an easy matter to dispatch them. Destroy all the moths that are seen about the hive. They are very much like the flea, " when you put your finger on him, he is not there ;" a careful move must be made, else she darts away. Probably the most * Worms create much warmth of themselves. wax. 245 expeditious mode is to make them drunk. Mix with wa- ter just enough molasses and vinegar to make it palatable ; put it in saucers or other dishes, and set among the hives at night. Like nobler, if not wiser beings, when once they have tasted the fatal beverage, they seem to lose all power to leave the fascinating cup ; and give way to appetite and excitement till a fatal step plunges them into destruction. The next morning finds them yet wallowing in filth, weak and feeble. "Whether they would recover from the effects of their carousal, if lifted out of the mire, and carefully nursed like other specimens of creation, I never ascertain- ed. With but little trouble, a chicken or two can be taught to be on hand, and will greedily devour every one. Hundreds may be caught in this way, mixed with many other kinds. I have thought that this liquid answered a better purpose after it had fermented. CHAPTER XVII. WAX. The unreflecting observer, seeing the bees enter the hive with a pellet of pollen on each posterior leg, is very apt to conclude that it must be material for comb, as it does not resemble honey. There is so little thought on the subject that they do not imagine any other use for it. Others suppose that it will change to honey after being stored in the hive a while, and wonder at the curious phenomenon, but when asked how long a time must elapse before it takes place, they cannot tell exactly, but they " have found cells where it began to change, as a portion near the outer end of the cell had become honey, and, no doubt, the re- mainder would, in time." This conclusion has doubtless 246 wax. arisen from the fact, that cells only about two-thirds full of pollen, are often finished with honey. WHAT IS IT? Those who contend that combs are made of pollen, would probably abandon the idea, after seeing the bees be- longing to a hive filled to the last inch with comb, collect- ing and bringing home just as much pollen as those belong- ing to a hive half full. The question as to where the bee gets wax to construct its combs, is very much like asking where the cow gets her milk, or the ox his tallow. I be- lieve all close observers agree that wax is a secretion nat- ural only to the bee. Honey, and syrup made of sugar are probably the only substances from which they secrete it. From experiments with them, Huber has decided that either of these substances, mixed with a little water, is all sufficient for its production. From experiments of my own, I am satisfied that he is correct, and that pollen is unnecessary. The experiment may be tried by shutting up a swarm when first hived, and feeding them with honey only. A few of the bees will probably have some pollen, though not enough to make a comb three inches square, and to be certain, time must be- given them to exhaust it. In three or four days take out the bees, and remove the combs ; enclose them again, and feed as before. Repeat the process, until satisfied that no pollen is needed in the composition of wax. Huber removed the combs five times with the same result at every trial. Whenever bees are confined in hot weather, air and water are absolutely necessary. HOW IT IS OBTAINED. We will now describe the first appearance of wax and how it is produced. When a swarm of bees is about leaving the parent-stock, three-fourths or more of them will wax. 247 fill their sacs with honey. When located in their new home, of course, no cells exist to hold it, and it must re- main in the sac or stomach for several hours. The con- sequence is, that thin white scales of wax, one sixteenth of an inch in diameter, somewhat circular, are formed be- tween the rings of the abdomen, on the under side. Fig. 30 shows the abdomen of the bee, enlarged, with the scales of wax between the rings. With the claws of one of their hind-legs, one of these is detached and conveyed to the mouth, and then Fig. 30. pinched with their forceps or teeth until one edge becomes somewhat rough ; it is then applied to the comb being constructed, or to the roof of the hive. The first rudiments of comb, are often to be seen within the first half hour after the swarm is hived. Transferring the swarms to other hives from one to forty-eight hours after being hived, will show their progress. COMMENCEMENT OF A COM3. I have found that wax is attached to the top of the hive, at first, without the least order, until some of the blocks or lumps are sufficiently advanced for them to begin cells. The scales of wax are welded together, without regard to the shape of the cell, then an excavation is made on one side for the bottom of a cell, and two others on the oppo- site side, the division between them being opposite the centre of the first. When this piece of comb is an inch or two in length, two other pieces, at nearly equal distan- ces on each side, are commenced. If the swarm is large and honey abundant, it is common for two pieces of comb to be started at one time, on different parts of the top ; the sheets in the two places are as often at right angles, as parallel, or any other way just as chance directs them. The little lumps that are deposited at random, at first, are removed as they proceed. 248 -wax. While the combs are in progress, the bases of the cells near the edge are always kept much the thickest, and are worked down to the proper thickness with their teeth, and polished smooth as glass. The ends of the cells also, as they lengthen them, will always be found much thicker when finished, than any other part of them. In the History of Insects, published by Harper, is a minute account of the first foundation of combs, somewhat amusing, if not instructive. Huber, it is said, " having provided a hive with honey and water, it was resorted to, in crowds, by bees, who hav- ing satisfied their appetite, returned to the hive. They formed festoons, remained motionless for twenty-four hours, and after a time scales of wax appeared. An ade- quate supply of wax for the construction of a comb, hav- ing been elaborated, one of them disengaged itself from the centre of the group, and clearing a space about an inch in diameter, at the top of the hive, applied the pincers of one of its legs to its side, detached a scale of wax, and immediately began to mince it with the tongue. During the operation, this organ was made to assume every variety of shape ; sometimes it appeared like a trowel, then flat- tened like a spatula, and at other times like a pencil, end- ing in a point. The scale, moistered with a frothy liquid, became glutinous, and was drawn out like a ribbon. This bee then attached all the wax it could concoct to the vault of the hive, and went its way. A second now succeeded, and did the like ; a third followed, but owing to some blunder, did not put the wax in the same line with its pre- decessor, upon which, another bee apparently sensible of the defect, removed the displaced wax, and carrying it to the former heap, deposited it there, exactly in the order and direction pointed out." — Now, I have some criticisms to make on this account. First, in the usual course of swarming, it is unnecessary was. 249 to provide the honey and water, as they come laden with honey from the parent-hive. Next, to form festoons, and remain motionless twenty-four hours to concoct the wax, is not their custom. They either swallow the honey long enough before leaving home, to have the wax ready, or less time than twenty-four hours is necessary to produce it. I have frequently found lumps, about the size of a piu-head, attached to a branch of a tree where they had clustered, when they had not been there over twenty-five minutes. 1 have had occasion many times to change the swarm to an- other tenement, an hour or two after they were hived, and have found places on the top nearly covered with wax. How he managed to see a bee " quit the group," or to as- certain that the tongue was the only instrument used in moulding the scale of wax, is more than I can comprehend. To witness the whole process in all its rninutite, in this stage of comb making has never been my good fortune, and I am sometimes inclined to doubt the success of oth- ers. I have had glass hives and put swarms in them, and always found the first rudiments of comb so entirely cov- ered with bees, as to be unable to see anything of the operation. The only time when I have been able to wit- ness the process, with any degree of satisfaction, has been when the combs approached the glass and there were but few bees in the way, then, with a little patience, some part of the process may be seen. When two combs approach each other in the middle of the hive at right angles or nearly so, they are not joined ; but when at an obtuse angle, the edges are generally united, making a crooked sheet of comb. It is evident, that where the two combs join, there must be sOme irregu- lar cellSj unfit for rearing brood. 250 wax. crooked combs. Crooked combs do not seem to affect the prosperity of the hive. Combs built in the Cross Bar or Movable Comb Hive, are usually straight when the under side of each bar is brought to an edge like a knife. But there are excep- tions enough to almost annul the rule, in ordinary manage- ment. It is found, however, that a smooth sharp edge is followed much better than a rough one. Sometimes, after combs are started straight, the bees will take some other direction, and by the time the combs reach the bottom of the hive, they may be at right angles with their course at the top. STKAIGHT COMBS. I recently made the discovery, that if one end of the hive was elevated 30°, straight combs would be the result throughout, especially if the hive were perfectly level the other way. Sometimes there will be corners and spaces not wide enough for two combs, and too wide for one of the proper thickness for breeding. As bees generally use all their room to the best advantage, a thick comb will be the result, and when used for breeding, the cells are cut down to the proper length. QUANTITY OF HONEY TAKEN BY A SWARM. A large swarm will probably carry some five or six pounds of honey from the mother colony. It is impossible to determine the exact amount as the Weight of the bees is very uncertain. "I can tell you," some one exclaims, "I saw some weighed — so many weigh just eight ounces. Are you sure that nothing else was weighed — no honey, bee-bread, foeces, or other substances ? " Can't say, — never thought of that." It is important, if we wish to know the weight wax. 251 of bees alone, that we weigh nothing else. It is evident, if a few thousand weigh three pounds, when nothing is in their sacs, that they would weigh several pounds more, when filled with honey. Hence, the fallacy of judging of the size of a swarm by weight, as one swarm might issue with half as much honey as another. Perhaps eight pounds would be a correct average for the weight of bees and ho- ney, in large swarms. This honey whatever it amounts to, cannot be stored, till combs are constructed to hold it. This principle holds good till the hive is full. That is, whenever they have more honey than the combs will hold, and there is room, they will construct more comb. But they seem to go no farther than this in comb-making. However large the swarm may be, this compulsion appears necessary to fill the hive. MAKTNG DRONE CELLS. Drone-cells are seldom made in the top of the hive, but some are generally joined on the worker cells, a little dis- tance from the top ; others near the bottom. There seems to be no rule about the number of such cells. Some hives will contain twice as many as others. It may depend on the yield of honey at the time ; if plenty, more drone-cells, and vice versa. It has been suggested that more drone- cells are built while filling the hive, when the swarm has an old queen. If the hive be very large, no doubt an un- profitable number will be constructed. Where the large and small cells join, there will be some of irregular shape ; some with four or five angles. Even where two combs of cells, the same size, join, making a straight comb, they are not always perfect. SOME WAX WASTED. When constructing comb, they are constantly wasting wax, either accidentally or voluntarily. The next morning 252 wax. after a swarm is located, the scales may be found, and will continue to increase as long as they are working it ; the quantity often amounts to a handful or more. It is the best test of comb-making that I can give. Clean off the board, and look the next morning, you will find the scales in proportion to their progress. Some will be nearly round as at first ; others more or less worked up, and a part like fine saw-dust. WATER NECESSARY. ' Whenever bees are engaged in making comb, a supply of water is absolutely necessary. When no pond or stream is Avithin convenient distance, the apiarian will find it economical to place water within their reach. As the necessity for it always occurs in a busy season, it will save much valuable time. It should be so situated, that the bees may obtain it without danger ; a barrel or pail has sides so steep, that a great many will slip in and drown. A trough made very shallow, with a broad strip around the edge to afford an alighting place, should be provided. It should contain a float, or a few shavings scattered in the water, with a few small stones laid on them to keep them from blowing away. A tin dish, an inch or two in depth, will answer very well. The quantity needed, may be easily ascertained ; — give them just enough, and change it daily. I have no trouble of this kind, as there is a stream of wa- ter within a few rods of my hives ; but I have an oppor- tunity to observe the number engaged in carrying it. Thousands may be seen in June and August filling their sacs, while a continuous stream of bees is on the Aving, going and returning. CELLS UNIFORM EST SIZE. The exact and uniform size of their cells is perhaps as great a mystery as anything pertaining to bees ; yet we wax. 253 meet the second wonder before we are done with the first. In building comb, they have no square and compass as a guide ; no master mechanic takes the lead, measuring and marking for the workmen ; each individual bee is a finished mechanic ! ISTo time is lass- ing the entrance, and sometimes, before, upon the combs. They were immediately chilled and could not return ; the quantity left about the entrance shows that a great many must have come out. That they came out in cold weather is proved by its being left on the hive, because in warm weather they leave the hive for this purpose. The cluster inside was in this way so reduced that they were un- able to keep from freezing." " This is a new idea ; at present it seems very probable ; 13 290 WINTERING BEES. I will think of it. But how did you know that it was an old hive, and that it was well filled ? " "When looking under it just now, I saw that combs of a dark color had been attached to the sides near the bottom, below where those are at present ; this indicates that it had been full ; and the dark color shows that the combs were old. Also, a swarm early and large enough to fill such a hive the first season, would not be very likely to be affected by the cold in this way." " Why not ? I think this hive was crowded with bees as much as any of my new swarms." " I have no doubt that it appeared so ; but we are very liable to be deceived by dead brood in the combs. A medium-sized family will make more show in such a hive, than a larger one that have empty cells to creep into, and can pack more closely." " But how did you know about the dead brood ? " " Because old stocks are often thus reduced and lost." " What were the indications of its having been filled with honey ? " " Combs are seldom attached to the side of the hive farther down than they are filled with honey. In this hive the combs had extended to the bottom, consequently must have been full ; also, unless a colony is very much reduced, the hive is generally well stored, even when diseased." " Why did you suppose it was near spring before I dis- covered it ? " " I guessed at that. The majority of bee-keepers are rather careless, you know, and when they have arranged their bees for winter, seldom give them much more atten- tion, till they begin to fly out in spring." " But what should I have done had I discovered the bees coming out ? " " As it was affected with dead brood, you could have WINTERING BEES. 291 done but little ; you would have lost it eventually. But had it been a colony otherwise healthy, and was thus af- fected only because it was small, or by the severity of the weather, you could have taken it to a warm room, and turned it bottom up, or given it abundant upward ventilation, and the heat would have converted most of the water contained in their food, into vapor. This would rise from the hive, and the bees could retain the excrementitious portion without difficulty till spring." " I suppose you must get along without losing many through the winter, if I may judge from your confident explanations." " I can assure you I have but little fear on this point. If I can have the privilege of selecting suitable stocks, I will engage to not lose one in a hundred." " How do you manage ? I would be glad to obtain a method with which I could feel as perfectly safe as you appear to." " The first requisite is to have none but good hives. I unite weak families until they become strong, or make some other disposition of them." I then gave him an outline of my usual method of housing bees, which I can confidently recommend to the reader. This accumulation of foeces is considered by many writers as a disease — a kind of dysentery. It is described as affecting them towards spring, and several remedies are given. If what I have been describing is not the dysentery, I have never had a case of it ; but I think it is the same, and that inattention must be the reason that many do not discover it in cold weather, at the time that it occurs. Some stocks may be badly affected, yet not entirely lost, and moderate weather may arrest its pro- gress. When a remedy is applied in spring, long after the cause ceases to operate, it would be singular if it were not effectual. I have no doubt but some have taken 292 WINTERING BEES. the natural discharge of foeces that always takes place in spring, when the bees first leave the hive, for a disease. Others, looking for a cause for diseased brood, and find- ing the hive and combs somewhat besmeared, have as- signed this as sufficient ; but according to my view, have reversed it, giving the effect for the cause. There is some reason to suppose that moisture on the combs gradually mixes with the honey, making it thin, and that the bees will be affected as described, by eating so much water with their food. But some experi- ments have induced me to assign cold as an additional cause, as I have always found, when I put the hives where it was sufficiently warm, that an immediate cure was the result, or, at least, it enabled the bees to retain the excre- ment till set out in the spring. Much has been said recently, about furnishing bees with water during the winter, but the reasons for feeding it, and the results are so conflicting, that we have but little reliable evidence on the subject. My experience does not show that it is very efficacious when given as a pre- ventive of dysentery, or necessary in rearing brood while housed. After taking so much trouble to get rid of moisture, I am not disposed to recommend giving any more of it. I may be prejudiced and not qualified to judge, in conse- quence. It is also strongly urged that it is required when bees are rearing brood, and that they will speedily perish when deprived of it, from being shut up in the house — especially if they have candied honey.* I cannot even * Mr. Harbison says: " I have had bees confined for a period of forly-eight days, about one-third of which time they were in a warm latitude, in transit to California ; not a single drop of water did they get during all that time, and yet they reared and matured brood on the way, and it was found in some strong WINTEEIKG BEES. 293 understand the force or pertinency of the reasoning. How candied honey can make any dhTerence when the bees do not eat it at all, I am unable to perceive. When a portion of honey is candied in the cells, the bees eat only that which is liquid, rejecting the rest ; would they do more than take the liquid portion, were it all in that state ? I doubt if there any disadvantages incident to the use of candied honey further than the waste. When the weather is warm enough, or the bees have increased enough to generate sufficient heat, it all liquifies — the bees eat it, and no harm arises. I think it quite likely that a very dry atmosphere would be detrimental to a colony of bees, as it is unnatural. It is probably best to avoid all extremes. colonies, in all stages from the egg to those just emerging from the cells, on their arrival at Sacramento." Mr. Harbison publishes a letter in his work, applying directly to this subject. St. Johnsville, N. Y., January 4, I860. Mr. Harbison, Dear Sir.— In regard to the necessity of giving bees water during winter, I cannot say at present that my views are in accordance with those set forth by Mr. Langstroth on pages 342, 343, and 316 of his last edition. I fear that his remarks, and the translation from the German, by Mr. Wagner, will give very many inexperienced bee-keepers much unnecessary trouble. A constant supervision is indicated as necessary to safely take the bees through the winter. I do not remember as any plan was given to keep up a supply without attention. As a dearth of water is represented as the cause of much loss, of course those who take this theory for fact and expect success, must have some trouble to provide for these warns. Net dreaming that water was essential to the health of bees in winter, I have for the last twenty-five years used my utmost endeavors to get rid of all moisture about the hive, and I have succeeded as effectually as anv one. When put in the house, I open the holes in the top of the hive, and then invert it on sticks ; a constant circulation of air through the hive carries with it all the moisture generated, the combs remain perfectly dry, and as far as I can discover, the bees are perfectly healthy. Instead of meeting a general loss with this method, I have wintered hundreds of stocks with a loss of less than two per cent. Why others, who take no pains comparatively, to ventilale, should suffer so much more loss than I do, I cannot comprehend ; — that is, with this theory. Many years ago, I became fully satisfied that the loss of nine-tenths of all the good colonies in winter, was a direct consequence of confining this moisture to the hive. The experience of every subsequent year gives additional evidence in favor of this idea. Respecting the particles of candied honey found on the bottom-board, as in- 294 WINTERING BEES. NATIVES OF ¥ASM CLIMATE. Bees being natives of a warm climate, need some as- sistance in maintaining a healthy condition throughout the winter. Let us see if we cannot keep them warm, save the bees, economize honey, and at the same time get rid of the excess of moisture. A large family expels it much better than a small one. WARM ROOM. When a large number of colonies is put together in a close room, the animal heat, from all combined, is an ad- vantage — to the weak ones, at least. Yet the moisture is condensed in large drops, and can be seen on the sides of a glass hive. This excess of moisture is quite certain to mold the combs, and must be disposed of. Ample vents can be opened on the top, or the hive inverted. Any one can see that while the vapor is warm from the bees, it will all pass off, or so much of it, that the combs dicating suffering for water, mentioned by Mr. Langstroth, I have been unable to arrive at a similar conclusion, because whenever the room in which they were wintered, was cold enough to candy the honey, I have invariably found the greater part of it, after the bees were set out and when they had abundant op portunity to get water. These particles may be seen at any time during spring, when the bees do not obtain sufficient honey from the flowers, for themselves and brood, and are necessitated to draw on their old stores. This seems very plain without the theory of need of water as may be readily seen. In each cell, only a part of the honey candies ; the bees can swallow only the liquid portion, and must reject the other ; this may be the case, although they fly out daily. When the temperature of the hive becomes sufficiently warm to liquify this, it is no longer to be found. I rather suspect that Mr. Langstroth has depended very much on the testi- mony of others in this matter of wintering bees. In his first edition of the " Hive and Honey Bee " in 1853, he recommended what he called a "protector" as very important In his second edition he abandoned that plan, as not likely to pav, and suggested "special depositories." To show (he advantages of this method, he quoted Dzieizon, and several pages from me explaining the manner of petting rid of this water. And now two or three years later, he supposes wa- ter is absolutely essenlial. In all our rural affairs there is no branch where there are more conflicting theories than in bee-culture, especially wintering them. No one can be sure, till lie makes a few experiments of his own. Your's Truly, M. QUINBY. WTNTERmG BEES. 295 will not mold. At the same time enough is diffused throughout the atmosphere of the room, to answer all the requirements of the bees. Twenty years experience has proved this principle correct. One hundred colonies in any hind of wooden hives, cannot be wintered more safely and economically, than in a warm room. What I mean by economically, is, with the least consumption of honey. The room should be large enough to conveniently contain the number of hives to be wintered. A small one in the dwelling house, or some out-build- ing, or a warm dry cellar may be used. I have wintered them in all these places, and prefer the latter. CELLAR PREFERRED. If I were now to construct a room for this particular purpose, and could have just what I wanted, it would not differ materially from one I now use. It is a cellar under a barn on a side hill, where the ground descends just enough to make the entrance level with the floor, size 20 * 30, with the hay-mow directly over it. Ten feet from the back end there is a partition, and two feet forward of that, another, enclosing a dead-air space, which will prevent all sudden changes of outside temperature from being felt within. Several days of warm or of very cold weather, will occur, before the difference is noticed by the bees. The walls are simply plastered, but should be laid in lime mort'ar to keep out rats and mice. The bottom is cemented thoroughly, and the top lathed and plastered. A tube four inches square is put in on one side near the bottom, for the admission of air, and another at the top, for its exit, both covered with wire-cloth to exclude vermin. A slide should be inserted in these tubes to re- gulate the supply of air. Around the sides of such a room, arrange shelves at 296 WIN-TEEING BEES. proper distances, one above another, upon which to set the hives. If the cellar is very dry, some hives may be set on a board on the floor. The bees should be allowed the benefit of flying out on all warm days at the end of the season, and should not be put into winter quarters until winter is positively at hand. Also, it is much better to remove them on a cool than on a warm day. It is an advantage, but not all-im- portant, that each hive occupies its old stand when set out in the spring. To this end, they should be numbered, and when brought out, they can be placed where they are to remain. If the box hives are to be housed, piace sticks an inch square (readily made by splitting a board of the right length), upon the shelves, and set the hives upon them, either inverted, or with ample ventilation at the top. When the combs can be vertical, the best position is on the side. When all the permanent shelves are full, put in temporary ones until one hundred hives are deposited, which are as many as should be kept in one apartment. The movable comb hives should be set on sticks about half as large. But few of the holes need be open in the honey board, for ventilation, as the air can pass over the top of all the frames. When over one hundred are put in one room, they are apt to make the air too warm, in consequence of which the bees become uneasy, and some get out and are lost. If the least ray of light is admitted, they will go to it, and lose their hive. A small number — less than thirty hives — will not keep up the requisite warmth, and there is more need of confining the animal heat to each hive ; this retains more of the moisture. It is better to reduce the size of the room in proportion to the number. A few in a large room will not do as well, as WINTEEING BEES. 297 in one just la#ge enough to hold them. They should be examined occasionally throughout the winter to see that all is right, but disturbed as little as possible. Perhaps when very cold, less air will be needed, than when moder- ate. Towards spring, they are less quiet, and you should take advantage of the first warm days after the middle of March to get a part of them out, so that the remainder will keep the temperature about the same as before. SETTIKG OUT. "No matter if the snow is not all gone, if it has a crust and the day is warm, a bee will rise from it, just as well as from the bare earth. Eight or ten hives should be set out at once ; after they have been out two or three hours, set out as many more. When all are taken out at one time, they are quite sure to mix, and unite with colonies where they do not belong. They are more particularly disposed to do so, when any stands have been changed or set in a strange place. While the usual difficulty is to select a day sufficiently warm, it is possible, as the season advances, for it to be too warm. When the hive is first set out, the bees are in- tent only on getting out to fly. Those that have been out, are now on the lookout for plunder, and rush into the hives recently set out, and carry off the honey, before there is any guard established to defend it. When such days occur, the bees should not be taken from the cellar. Should some hives, after all precautions, get more than their share of bees, while others are proportion- ally deficient, the best way is to simply change the hives, taking the strong one to the stand of the weak one, and the reverse. Take care that too many do not leave the strong hive and join the other, as will occasionally happen, in which case it will be necessary to return each to its own stand. Be- 13* 298 WINTERING BEES. fore making the exchange, ascertain if tike weak one is not queenless. If it be impossible to build such a cellar as the fore- going, one partially as good, is better than the open air for wood hives. It, should be near the apiary, and if no side hill is within convenient distance, it may be made on the level, excavating for one half the depth of the room, if dry enough ; or if not, make a room above ground. But it will require much more expense and trouble to make it answer as well as a cellar. The dif- ficulty is in a lack of uniformity in the temperature, rather than in the inability to make it warm enough. A few days of warm weather outside, will make bees uncomfortably warm within, and many will be wasted. To confine them to the hive does not avail much, as they will continue their endeavors to get out, until they worry themselves to death. Towards spring, this difficulty in- creases. A few bushels of snow or pounded ice laid on the floor, will do much towards keeping them quiet, till the time to set them out. A room, even above ground, should be made to obviate this difficulty in a great degree. A BUILDING FOR THE PURPOSE. Put up the frame of the desired size, board it inside and out, leaving a space of ten or twelve inches between, to be filled with some non-conductor of heat, such as saw- dust or spent tan-bark. Then enclose this with another frame, leaving two feet on every side for a dead-air space in which, if necessary, snow or ice may be packed, which will have a tendency to keep the temperature more uni- form. The inside can be arranged as already described. ROOM IN THE DWELLING HOUSE. Rather than the wooden hive should stand in the open air, I would appropriate some small room in the house ; WINTERING BEES. 299 make it dark, and secure as even a temperature as possible. Some bees will be wasted, yet not as many as on the stand. BURYING BEES. The conditions under which it is advisable to bury them, are sometimes found. A dry sandy soil is best. The pit should be dug where there is perfect drainage, and the hives should be surrounded on every side with straw, enough to absorb all the moisture from the bees, if not very much of that from the ground. The hive should be inverted, or laid on the side. As the bees produce some heat, it is not necessary to bury quite as deep as would keep potatoes from freezing. It is not ad- visable to put a great many in one pit, as there would be too much heat ; also it would be necessary to take them all out at one time, very expeditiously, and the difficulty of their mixing, would be encountered. Make several pits, if a large number is to be wintered in this way. The labor is but little more, and there are certainly several advantages. A very few would winter better in a pit than in a room or cellar. In the first case they can be covered with earth, till properly warm, but in the other, they must keep themselves warm. One object in protecting bees, is to save honey. The colder they are, the more they consume. The horse or ox consumes his food to replace the warmth that is thrown off on the cold air. The quantity seems to be re- gulated by the degree of cold; they refuse a portion of tempting provender in the warm days of spring, and greedily devour large quantities in the pelting storm. The farmer houses his cattle in winter on the score of economy. The same consideration should prevail with reference to his bees. 300 WINTERING BEES. STRAW HIVES. There are some bee-keepers who from some cause, can- not be induced to make a room or cellar available, and others who prefer to leave them on their summer stands. To such I would recommend the straw hive. Not old fashioned conical shaped hives ; although the objection to it, is simply the want of adaptation to im- proved bee-culture. We have all heard of the great success in wintering in " the old-fashioned straw hive," fifty or a hundred years ago. They were discarded, it is said on account of harboring the moth-worm, and in- convenience. Mr. Langstroth says : " Straw hives are warm in winter and cool in summer ;" and again, "Hives made of wood are at the present time fast superseding all others." Notwithstanding this, I shall err greatly in my judgment if straw as a material for hives, does not in a great measure regain its former position in public favor. We now have straw hives of convenient shape, some of them covered by a patent, but that is chiefly on the manner of holding the straw. The proper degrees of heat and cold when most desirable, are great ad- vantages, and can be obtained on principles long ago recognized. PHILOSOPHY. It is found that solid bodies are much better conductors of heat than porous ones. To illustrate : put on a rubber coat, or a woolen one, one impervious to air and water, the other freely admitting both; one conducts away the heat and retains the moisture, while the other retains the warmth, and allows the insensible perspira- tion to leave the body. A linen or cotton garment* is a much better conductor of heat, than one made of wool. Perhaps this is owing to the fact that the fibres lie more compactly. WINTERING BEES. 301 Ah* is a poor conductor of heat. We readily succeed in warming a room, but it is when the heated air can move from the fire, forming a current, and is replaced by cold air to become heated in turn. But confine the air in what we call a dead-air space, as is done in the walls of a house, or, if you please, within the interstices of a woolen fabric, and the heat passes off very slowly. I can readily conceive that straw, the leaves of the cat-tail flag, or broom-corn stalks, used as a material for bee- hives would act similarly as a non-conductor of heat, the thousands of tiny air-cells, being so many dead-air spaces to prevent the escape of the heat, and permit the passage of moisture. I speak comparatively, for some warmth will of course escape, but not so much by far as when a wood hive is properly ventilated. It is thus apparent that a wood hive thoroughly water- soaked would conduct away the heat far more rapidly than when perfectly dry. In the one case the pores of the wood are filled with water, thus becoming a good conductor like a wet garment ; in the other the pores are occupied with air, and the heat leaves slowly. The more numerous the air-cells, the slower it will pass. Hives made with double walls of boards, enclosing a dead-air space, do very well in regard to warmth, but do not dis- pose of the moisture with sufficient rapidity. The moisture must be got rid of, and in no way can it be done so well, as by straining it through straw. Be- side being advantageous for wintering, straw hives are superior in keeping the temperature wanner, and more uniform, throughout the spring, thus promoting early breeding and swarming. After the beginning of summer they do not seem to possess any special advantage over wood hives, further than that their combs are less liable to melt down. But the objection first raised by most persons — the harbor for the moth-worm — has not arisen 302 WINTERING BEES. in my experience. Out of a large number containing bees through, the summer, not one has ever been injured in this way. However, I think it better economy to change the combs, bees, etc., to the wood hive for the summer, and back again in December. A straw hive will decay faster during use in summer, than in winter. Also it will receive a coating of propolis during July and August, that will render it less efficient in ridding it- self of moisture. I say less efficient, because it is better than wood, at any rate.* The top must certainly be removed to give place to the surplus boxes, and should be kept in the best possible condition for receiving the moisture, when iised again the following winter. The top is much more important than the sides, and if the latter should become impervious to moisture and air, the bees would be warm enough to enable the top to absorb all the moisture before it would freeze. The operation of transferring from wood to straw hives may be performed at any time from October to January. The first cold snap in December is a suitable time. Take the bees to a somewhat darkened room to prevent them from flying. Let the combs occupy the same re- lative position in the straw hive as in the other. Each comb, when lifted out, should have made in it a passage for the bees, three-fourths of an inch in diameter. It can be made in a moment with a knife, and is often important as a means by which the bees can pass from one comb to another, when in need of honey, and also to allow the queen to pass to different combs to deposit eggs, when the weather is not mild enough to permit her to go around the edo-es. * Propolis can be removed from a hive if desired, by scalding, or crumbling, by striking or rubbing when very cold. Transferring the bees to some other hive meanwhile. WINTERING BEES. 303 I like this method better than the coiled shaving re- commended by Mr. Langstroth, because that cannot al- ways be in the place most convenient for the bees. It is frequently in the midst of sealed honey. The condition of the bees may be ascertained at any time by simply raising the top mat. As the hives sit near the earth, the snow may be allowed to drift around them. Should warm days occur before the snow is gone, when it is suitable for the bees to fly, it is not important to shovel it away from the entrance to allow them to issue. Remove the roof and slide the mat back a few inches; the bees will fly off and return without hin- drance. The walls of these hives are not as quickly warmed through by the rays of a winter's sun, as those of wood. Not until the whole surrounding air is mild enough for them to issue safely, do they become aroused, and desire to come out, and then it is usually safe to allow it. STRAW TOP. There are some apiarians who are unable to have the best and most profitable hive, and yet wish to winter their bees in the open air. Perhaps a few such persons may be induced to make a hive that will admit of a straw top for winter. It would cost but little more to make a mat of straw, or flags, or even corn-cobs, to just suit the top of the hive. Put bars or slats across the top to support the combs. The top board used in summer, may be held by screws, and is easily removed when desired. Such mat will ab- sorb, nearly, if not quite all of the moisture, and the bees are in much better condition in consequence. I will make some further suggestions to those who use the box hive, and have decided to take the chances of wintering: on the summer stand with the least trouble. 304 WINTERING BEES. SIMPLE BOX. Entire success can attend those only who select none but the best stocks for winter, and secure for them the following conditions. They must have air at all times and must be kept from freezing. The first condition will secure the last. If the bottom of the hive rests on the board, and there are but small openings at the bottom, and none at the top, all the moisture condenses on the combs and sides of the hives. A warm day melts it, and every thing in the hive is wet. Sudden severe weather freezes all solid. In this way, even strong, heavy stocks are lost. A special vent should be opened at the top to correspond with the bottom. A current of air passing through, will carry off the surplus moisture, and keep the combs compar- atively dry, but a great deal of the heat that would be beneficial to the bees will go with it. This moisture is received in the cover of the honey boxes, which may, with benefit, be filled with hay, straw, or cobs to ab- sorb it. If the hive has no upward ventilation it should be raised at least an inch from the board, to give all pos- sible circulation below ; it will keep the lower ends of the combs dry, at least ; but the upper ends may be a little frosty and moldy. To prevent the depredations of the mice when so raised, a strip of wire-cloth, a little more than an inch wide, surrounding the hive at the bottom, and held in place by a few tacks, will be effectual. The hole in the side should be covered with the same. It should be so put on in both places, that the bees may have room to pass at one edge. When thus guarded, the hives may remain under a snow drift for months, without danger from mice, WESTTERIKG BEES. 305 smothering, or freezing. Indeed, bees could hardly spend the winter in a more desirable situation. In a few hours after the snow has covered them, it is melted for a space of four inches on all sides of the hive, and sufficient air circulates through it, for all their necessities. It has been strongly urged to keep all hives out of the sun, without regard to the strength of the colony, because an occasional warm day allures the bees out- side, when they get on the snow and perish. This is a loss, to be sure, but there is a possibility of inducing a still greater one by endeavoring to avoid the lesser. I have already said, that the second rate or poor stocks may occasionally starve with plenty of stores in the hive, on account of frosty combs. If the hive is kept from the' sun, in the cold, the periods of temperate weather may not occur as often as the bees exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. But on the contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it warms up the bees, and melts the frost more frequently. The bees may then go among their stores, and obtain a supply, generally, as often as needed. We seldom have a winter without enough sunny days for this purpose, but when such a one occurs, stocks of this class should be taken to a warm room, once in eight or ten days, for a few hours at a time, to give them an opportunity to get at the honey. LOST ON THE SNOW. As for bees being lost on the snow when flying out, I apprehend that not many more are lost there than on the frozen earth, that is, in the same kind of weather. I have seen them chilled and lost on the ground by hundreds, when a casual observer would not have noticed 306 WINTERING BEES. them ; whereas, had they been on the snow, every bee would have been noticable at the distance of several rods. Snow is not to be dreaded so much as chilly air. Suppose that a hive stands in the sun throughout the winter, and the bees are permitted to leave when they choose, and a portion is lost on the snow; and that it were possible to number all that are lost by be- coming chilled on the bare earth, throughout the season, the number lost on the snow would not be one in twenty. A person who has not observed closely during the damp and chilly weather in April, May, or even the summer months, has no adequate conception of the number. Yet I do not wish to be understood that those lost on the snow are of no consequence, by any means. On the contrary, a great many are lost that might be saved by proper care. But I would like to impress the fact that warm air is essential, and that crusted snow is as safe a footing for a bee, as frozen earth. Even melting snow is solid footing for a bee ; it can and does rise from it, with the same ease as from the earth. Bees that perish on the snow under these circumstances, would be likely to be lost in any case. The worst time for them to leave the hive is imme- diately after a new snow has fallen, because it will not sustain their weight, and they soon work themselves down out of the sun, and speedily perish. Should it clear off pleasant after a storm of this kind, a little at- tention will probably be remunerated. To prevent their leaving the hive at such times, a wide board should be set up before it, at least as high as the entrance in the side, to protect it from the sun. But if it grows so warm that the bees leave the hive when thus shaded, it is fair evi- dence, that it will do to let them sally out freely, except in case of a new snow, when they should be confined to the hive. WINTERING BEES. 307 The hive may Tbe let down on the floor-hoard, the pas- sage in the side covered with wire-cloth, and made dark ; raising, at night again, as before directed. I have known hundreds of colonies wintered success- fully without any such care, the bees being allowed to issue whenever they choose. Their subsequent health and prosperity proved that it was not altogether ruinous. It has been recommended to enclose the whole hive by a large box set over it, and made perfectly dark; with means for ventilation, etc. For large families it would do well enough, as would also some other methods. But I would rather take the chances of letting them all stand in the sun, and issue at pleasure, than to have the warmth of the sun entirely excluded from the medium sized families. I never knew a whole colony to be lost from cold alone, but I have known a great many to starve, merely because the sun was not allowed to melt the frost on the combs, and give them a chance to get at their stores. There are some extremely economical bee-keepers who urge the additional objection to allowing bees to stand in the sun, that " every time bees come out in winter, they discharge their excrement, and eat more honey in consequence of the vacant room." What an absurdity it would be to apply this principle to the horse, whose health, strength, and vital heat is sustained by the as- similation of food ! The farmer is not to be found who would think of saving his provender by such means. That bees are supported in cold weather on the same principle, is indicated strongly, if not conclusively. Is it not desirable, if what has been said on the subject of wintering bees is correct, to keep our bees warm and comfortable when practicable, as a means of saving honey? To winter bees in the best manner, considerable care is required. Whenever you are disposed to neglect them, 308 THE ITALIAN" OR LIGTTRIAN BEE. you should remember that one early swarm is worth two late ones, and that their condition in spring often determines which you shall have. Like a team of cattle or horses, when well wintered, they are ready for the season's work, hut if neglected, they need a long time in which to recruit, before they are able to make themselves useful. CHAPTER XXIV. THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. REPUTATION. Much attention has recently been attracted to this new variety. The reputation given it by extensive and intel- ligent apiarians in Germany and other places, induced some of our citizens to import a few colonies some time in '59 or '60. As to who took the lead in this enterprise, there are various conflicting claims, which I shall not be able to reconcile. IMPORTERS. Mr. Mahan of Philadelphia, and Mr. Parsons of Flush- ing, N". Y„ were among the first to disseminate them from the imported stock. Afterwards, Mr. Rose of New York, obtained these bees directly from their native Alps, and sent out large numbers. Those, to whom the first were sent, soon spoke in the highest terms of their supe- rior qualities ; representing them as fully sustaining the reputation they had gained before their arrival. SUPERIORITY. -It was said that they were larger, more beautiful and hardy, more prolific, and more industrious than the com- THE ITALIAN OR LIGUEIAN BEE. 809 mon bees ; that they swarmed earlier and more frequent- ly, were less inclined to sting, more disposed to rob, and more courageous and active in self-defence ! In corrobo- ration of this, Dr. Kirtland of Cleveland, Ohio says, — I quote from Mr. Parsons' Circular, — " Their beauty of coloring, and graceful forms, render them an object of in- terest to every person of taste. My colonies are daily watched and admired by many visitors. So far as my experience has gone, I find every statement in regard to their superiority sustained. They will no doubt prove a valuable acquisition to localities of high altitude, and will be peculiarly adapted to the climate of Washington Territory, Oregon, and the mountainous regions of Cali- fornia." The Rev. L. L. Langstroth says, "If we may judge from the w orking of my colonies, the Italians will fully sustain their European reputation. They have gath- ered more than twice as much honey as the swarms of the common bee. This honey has been chiefly gathered within the last few weeks, during which time the swarms of common bees have increased in weight but very little. The season here has been eminently unfavorable for the new swarms — one of the worst I ever knew — and the prospect now is, that I shall have to feed all of them ex- cept the Italians." Mr. E. A. Brackett says, " My ex- perience thus far satisfies me that the value of the Italian Bee has not been overrated. The queens are larger and more prolific ; the workers when bred in comb of their own building are larger, and their honey-sacs larger. They are less sensitive to cold, and are more industrious. In all my handling of them, (and I have done so pretty freely, lifting the combs and examining them almost dai- ly,) I have never known one to offer to sting." WHEN FIRST OBTAINED. The reports of many others were equally favorable ; and no one has as yet reported unfavorably. I obtained 310 THE ITALIAN OR LIGUEIAK BEE, queens of this variety from most of the parties who had imported them — from Mahan, Parsons, and Rose. OBJECT. I procured them, not because I expected to find them as perfect as represented, but because I wished to be able to express an opinion of them based upon actual experi- ence. I wished also to verify by ocular demonstration many points in the natural history of the bee, with re- gard to which some of us, it is true, were already suffici- ently well satisfied, but which at the same time were not so clear to the majority of bee-keepers; and this object the new variety would materially aid me to accomplish. But I had become so accustomed to look upon the won- ders told of patent hives as extravagant and fabulous, and circulated only to victimize the ignorant, that when I heard the seemingly extravagant praises of the Italians, I very naturally put them in the category of humbugs pertaining to the bee. When obtained, if I had any bias, it was against them rather than otherwise. I was satisfied that among the number of bees in my apiaries, I would have greater opportunities for investigation and comparison than most of those who had fewer colonies. All of us who have had much experience know, that a- mong colonies of the common bee, apparently equal in all respects, there will sometimes be a difference of one- half in results. This shows that nothing reliable can be deduced from the experience of one or two seasons in small apiaries — say of a dozen stocks, half of them Italians, even if the latter surpass the common bee by fifty per cent., although one might very honestly conclude that the greater thrift of the Italians in such case was entirely owing to their superior qualities. We can hope to arrive at a just conclusion, only, by comparing the re- sults of numerous trials in large apiaries. THE ITALIAN OR LIGUFwIAN BEE. 311 Determined to get the best, if there was any difference, I obtained a queen from each party. The first one pro- duced fully one-half of her workers of the native color. Having no faith in the purity of this one I did not dare to rear a queen from her. The next was not obtained till late in the season, owing to the management of certain interested friends at headquarters — of which friends most men are unfortunate enough to have more or less. At length, however, I obtained two, one of them in time to rear a few queens, the most of which were dark. The workers were fine. The next spring (1861) I raised a large number of beautifully colored queens. I had several stocks of hybrids from the queens reared the previous year, which had mated with the native drone. On these, with one drone queen, I depended for early drones for the young queens. I found that the drones from light- colored queens were much better marked than those from dark ones — indeed, a great many of the latter appeared no better than the natives. Yet, they had to be consid- ered pure. Nearly all the queens raised at this time, be- fore the appearance of the native drones, produced genu- ine Italian workers. PECOT. TA .TIHTES. I now began to watch their peculiarities with consider- able interest. I had two colonies nearly all changed, several hybrids, and a number in which I had just intro- duced the queen. I had about 60 native colonies, and all the Italians, marked with the yellow stripe, which would have made about three good swarms, in one apiary. White Clover was blossoming in abundance, and the Early Red, or June Clover, in small quantities. Here was a chance to see if they frequented the red clover more than the natives. I found nine Italians to two na- tives on this plant. The two exceptions might have been 312 THE ITALIAN OK LIGaTRIAST BEE. black hybrids.* I discovered some on a little ball of wax, made by the squeezing together by the hand, of bits of old, dry comb, that had been accidentally left in the sun. It was packed on their legs like pollen, and carried to the hive. I had never seen the native bees thus en- gaged. Here was another item to their credit, which, although of little account in itself, suggested that if they could turn to good account one stone rejected by the builders, they might also other and greater ones. LOKGER LIVED. But more important than this, it soon became evident that they were longer-lived. Some time in October I de- prived three ordinary-sized colonies of their queens and united them, giving them brood from an Italian queen. This brood occupied both sides of a comb some five or six inches square. It matured and a queen was produced. At this time there was about one Italian to fifty or one hun- dred natives. There being no increase except of drones, the queen proving barren of workers, the^ colony was pretty well reduced by the last of May. But the propor- tion of the Italians to the natives had been steadily on the increase. I now introduced a moderate family of natives, in order to continue the production of Italian drones. In a few weeks more, they again became reduced, worms ap- peared, and the colony was broken up. Not far from one- third of the remnant was Italians. Evidence of the strongest kind was here furnished, showing that they live longer than the natives.f * This was important to me. If the honey from white clover would sustain 60 or 80 colonies, that from the red would sustain nearly as many more, and I could keep double the number in each year. t It explains how a greater proportion of very weak colonies of Italians are increased into strong ones ; than there are of the natives. Also how they retain their strength when all their combs are so nearly hlled with honey, that but few cells arc left for breeding. THE ITALIAN OE LIGIJEIAN BEE. 313 ROBBING. Their robbing propensities were also closely watched with the expectation of finding their appetite for maraud- ing, insatiable. This propensity is indicated by their keen sagacity in scenting out any exposed honey that may chance to be in their vicinity. If standing uncovered on a table in the dining room, with the tempting avenue of an open window or door, the bees are quite sure to find it, especially at certain seasons, but the first one on hand is sure to be an Italian, notwithstanding nineteen twen- tieths of the apiary may be natives. Judging from this alone, we should conclude at once that they are unscru- pulous robbers ; and no doubt they are when there are colonies within reach, reduced to entire helplessness. But with me they were not half so troublesome as the black rascals. Whether I had no weak stocks to tempt them to begin, or whether they had a little principle of forbear- ance, I cannot tell. To see what they would do, I now had them standing promiscuously with the others through- out the yard. They were kept thusfor two seasons with this object expressly in view. I thought it very likely that the wealth of stores which they were reputed to gain much more rapidly than the common bee, would be found to be composed in great part of plunder taken from their neighbors. But the idea had to be dismissed. In self-de- fence, they were vigilant and active. If a native ap- proached the entrance of their domicile, he was seized and despatched without hesitation. Even an Italian venturing too near a strange colony was not favored. But I have kept my little boxes for rearing queens, successfully, though defended by only a handful of bees, till late in November. The results of this season's experience were very satis- factory. I found the stocks of Italians, the hybrids as well as those in which the queens had been early intro- 14 814 THE ITALIAN OR LIGUEXAN BEE. duced, averaging heavier than the others. Where the queens had been introduced, however, the season was well advanced before the bees were all changed, and such stocks therefore did not furnish a perfect test. Neither did the full blood colony from which I was taking brood to rear queens, since it was fed at different periods to promote breeding, and at the same time kept reduced to prevent swarming. In the spring of 1862 I sold nearly all my pure queens, keeping only a few to breed from, and the hybrids. DISPOSITION. Long before this time, I had learned much about their amiable disposition. They had exceeded my expectations in so many particulars, that for a long time whenever they manifested any unusual ill-nature I found myself seeking some apology in the peculiar circumstances of the case. But I was at last reluctantly forced to admit that the Italian bees, especially the hybrids, were cross — not moderately so, but just as cross, it seemed, at times, as they knew well how to be. In the season of swarming for instance, to hive some swarms without pi'otection would be perfect madness; others would be less irritable. In the season of honey, any time between ten o'clock in the morning and four in the afternoon, when the weather is fine, I have no difficulty in opening the hive to obtain brood, or for any other purpose. While at work they do not seem to notice much that is going on around them. Walking among them at such times seldom attracts attention. But when I would fasten up a colony that had been sold, and was now about to be sent away, I had to do it of course when the whole family was at home, usually in the morning ; and at such times every bee would seem a warrior bent on driving me away. By the use of smoke I could drive them like the black bees THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 315 among the combs and out of the way, but while the latter would be quickly and easily subdued, the former would return again and again, darting at my face like a shot, and not always without effect. They are remarkably quick. When I stand within two or three feet of a family of black bees, and see one start for my face, I can often avert it in time to prevent a sting ; but he must be a skill- ful swordsman, who would thus parry the lightning-thrust of the Italian. The results obtained during the summer of 1862 corre- sponded with those of the preceding year, and tended strongly to establish their superiority. STVAKMING. Having a large proportion of hybrids, I had an oppor- tunity to observe their swarming qualities. I found that they swarmed more, began earlier, and continued later, than the native bees. During the season of '63 there was a still greater difference manifest. The hybrids and a few pure ones, about seventy in number, constituted the whole apiary. Having no native bees in the yard with them — which of course would have furnished a more complete test — I had to compare them with others near by. With- in three miles, in different directions, were six large apia- ries, comprising nearly 300 colonies. If I except a few hybrids in one yard, the whole of them together failed to produce as many swarms as this one. Yet each of these six apiaries had the advantage of pasture, being located on the outside. The Italians began to swarm three weeks before the others. The first one, a hybrid, issued on the 20th of May, and a second from the same hive, on the 30th. As this was a season of but little honey, these two were put in hives containing combs and a little honey gathered the year before. By the 11th of July the old 316 THE ITALIAN OK LIGUEIAN BEE. hive had again become full of bees, and a third swarm is- sued. The first swarm, hived May 20th, sent out a swarm June 30th, and a second July 9th ; while the second swarm, hived May 30th, swarmed July 19th, making six swarms from one in a season. The other Italians did not swarm so excessively. The last three swarms got mixed with others and further trace of them was lost. The old hive and the first one from it, contained at the end of the season, strong colonies with ample stores for winter. The season for honey was one of the poorest that I ever knew. So little was obtained that but few of the natives could afford to swarm, and many that did so, failed to se- cure stores for winter, as did also some of the swarms. Some of the Italians did but little better in gathering honey. When it is not to be had, all must do without. But they gathered pollen, and reared brood, with thrice the energy of the natives. Swarms came out as late as 22nd of August, when scarcely any honey was to be col- lected. This propensity to swarm in such a season — I will not call it oyer-swarming, because in all cases, bees enough were left — was of no particular advantage. I mention it to show their perseverance in improving all possible conditions. It will be supposed that if they swarm thus in seasons of scarcity, a season of plenty would cause them to issue still more extravagantly. I have not found it so thus far ; for this reason, as I suppose. The combs are quickly filled with honey, and brood is excluded. In spring, there are empty combs of course, and they fill up with brood, while the flowers yield little else than pollen. As soon as the first swarm leaves, which is usually in a season of honey, every bee that hatches leaves a cell that cannot be again occupied with an egg, within two or three weeks, which will allow the bees to fill it with honey ; and by the time the young queen is ready to commence laying, her field of operations is limited to a very few THE ITALIAN" OB LIGUKIAN" BEE. 317 combs near the bottom, not enough to admit of rearing bees for another swarm. HIVE CROWDED WITH BEES EST COOL WEATHER. On examining the hives at the commencement of cold weather, I found the whole colony packed into the small space at the bottom where the brood was hatched. A person not acquainted with the cause of their clustering so low down, would at once suppose that he had a jn-o- digious family, when in reality the whole number would be no greater than in a colony of natives, where they were gathered half way to the top. It must be admitted that a colony with an excess of stores, is not in the best condition for winter, especially in the open air. Very likely the com- plaint will be made when this is the case, that the Italians do not winter well, even when "the hive was full of honey." REMEDY. The stores may be reduced, and the condition for winter improved, by dividing such colony at the proper season, and giving them empty combs for raising brood, or empty frames in which to construct combs. Both divisions will soon have plenty of breeding cells, and at the end of the season, will probably be stronger, than if confined to the few cells sometimes left for breeding in the full colony. If dividing would make them entirely too weak, it would benefit them greatly to remove several full combs, and re- place with empty combs or frames. These bees are liable to excesses; when honey is scarce, they rear brood; when abundant, they gather too much for their own good. They will need supervision, and movable combs of some form are requisite. In giving my experience, I have given what may be considered as the general rule. There are exceptions in individual cases as with other bees. To sin- 318 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. gle out and report either extreme is unfair ; that which is true of the majority, is the only reliable criterion. I have now related my observations on nearly all the points of character enumerated at the beginning, as well as some others. That they are less sensitive to cold, I am not yet prepared to say. That they are more prolific, is sufficiently proved. It is also clearly indicated that they are less so, in good honey seasons. It is also shown that they swarm earlier. Their disposition was found gener- ally much worse than represented, yet under some cir- cumstances very mild. I think it very probable that many who obtain them will expect too much, and ,meet with disappointment. They may procure a colony that proves to be the excep- tion to the rule, or the queen may be impure, producing nothing but hybrids. Although a half blood progeny will be much superior to the natives, the next remove will be so much reduced that they will not be a fair sample. PURITY TO BE SECURED I would advise all those who are disposed to try them, to purchase only of some reliable man, who will guarantee the purity of all he sells, so that if the first queen pro- cured, should prove impure, it would be replaced by oth- ers, until a pure one was obtained.* The lowest price is not always cheapest. Bee-keepers have not as yet been able to decide on a reliable test of purity, a test that would detect the slightest mixture of native blood, with the genuine Italian. All admit that a yellow band must surround the abdomen of pure Italian workers ; and that * To change a colony of bees from the native to the Italian, it is only neces- sary to remove the native queen and introduce a pure Italian. She will at once commence laying eggs, and in about three months, the whole colony will be Italians. THE ITALIAN OR UGUEIAK BEE. 319 the drones, a part of them, at least, must be marked ir- regularly, the baud being somewhat scalloped. VARIATION EST COLOR OF QUEENS, Among the queens there is a great variation in color, some being even blacker than the natives, while the ab- domen of others, is a beautiful yellow nearly its whole length. These are the marks, it is said, by which they are distinguished in their home in the Alps, where they are surrounded by a barrier of mountains impassable to the common bee. It is said that they have existed there since the days of Virgil and Aristotle. If they existed at that time, as a superior variety, it would seem to be a mark against them that they have not become the predominant variety. That they should be indebted to the protection of sur- rounding mountains for their very existence is not much in their favor. It seems to be a law of nature that the poor and feeble shall be superseded by the better and stronger races. As they are not a distinct species like the Stingless Bee of the tropics, but only a variety of the common bee, — as is proved by their mixing with them through all the grades, — I would suggest that they have grown into their present status through the influence of climate and sur- rounding circumstances, and that the impassable moun- tain enclosure has prevented all degrading alliances. SUSCEPTIBLE OP rMPROVEMEjSTT. That bees may have changed from the common black to the brilliant specimens before us, in a few centuries or thousands of years, is indicated by similar changes in our domestic animals. "We have the Pony, Cart, Farm, and Thoroughbred — horse: we have the Native, Ayrshire, Devon, and Durham, in neat cattle ; the Newfoundland, Terrier, Hound, Pointer, and Poodle, among dogs, and all 320 THE ITALIAN OR LIGUKIAN BEE. gradations of domestic fowls from the enormous Asiatic, to the tiny Bantam. All these differences have followed some adequate producing cause, and had we the whole genealogy in each case, we could doubtless go back to one original stock. Great changes are effected by select- ing some point desirable to propagate, such as size, sym- metry of proportions, or color, and breeding from such only as exhibit the desired qualities in the greatest per- fection. The longer we breed in one direction, or the greater the number of generations that have exhibited particular qualities, the more we expect to find those points in the offspring, and the more the chances of their showing the original type, are diminished. But a few years since, a man conceived a fancy for breeding Shang- hai fowls with short legs. He obtained by the first cross but a few specimens. Selecting the largest to breed from, he obtained a greater proportion of the mixed ones, and after a few 'generations, he had almost established a new variety, yet the bodies were not quite as large as he wished. By crossing again with the large ones, he ob- tained a few with short legs, three-quarter size, and by continued experiments, he was finally able to show these fowls with short legs, and bodies so little inferior in size as not to be distinguished by that alone. Such examples of progressive improvement point out the way in which we can improve these bees in color, if hi nothing else. We have only to breed from the best spe- cimens, and as several generations can be matured in one summer, there should be rapid progress.* Until all the bees in a neighborhood are of this kind, there will be constant danger of mixing with natives. There must be continual vigilance, to discover and remove all such. It will not be long before all bee-keepers become satisfied of * At present very many of the pure queens are dark colored, even when their workers ace all handsomely marked. We should get rid of this feature. THE ITALIAN OR LXGUEIAN BEE. 821 the superiority of the Italians, before which time it can- not he expected that they will do much towards changing their stock.* NEIGHBORS JOIN IN PURCHASING QUEENS. Could all that keep bees in one neighborhood be induced to begin with the Italians at the same time, each would have but comparatively little trouble, but as this cannot be looked for, we must consider how a person must man- age to preserve their purity when surrounded by the na- tives. There are two or three methods. MIX THREE MILES DISTANT. * If the natives are three miles distant, there is but little risk. Should they be nearer, the young queens should be taken to some place at least that distance from them, so as to meet the pure drones before they commence laying. COLONY TO FURNISH DRONES. A colony to furnish the drones should be strong and must stand near the young queens. One for the purpose will rear many more than the usual number, by supply- ing it with extra drone-combs. Take out worker-combs and replace with drone-combs — taken one each from dif- ferent hives, — leaving only worker-combs enough to main- tain the strength of the colony. As soon as the queen hatches and leaves the cell, the box containing her should be taken to this yard, and left there till she begins to lay, which will be in about eight days, more or less, when she may be introduced to the native stock. If there should be any chance for such queen to meet a native drone, which would be possible, * During the past summer, (1804,) I succeeded in interesting my bee- keeping neighbors, with one exception, within three miles, to Italianize their bees, and consequently expect to find but few hybrids among my young queens throughout the coming summer. 14* 322 THE ITALIAN OB LIGUEIAN BEE. if one or two native stocks were within the prescribed limits, and it was desired to test her purity before intro- ducing her, it would be necessary to wait till some of her workers hatch. If she has demeaned herself by a "mis-alliance" it will usually be manifested by some of her workers being black. If she is bright, and it is absolutely certain that she was purely impregnated, the bees left after she is removed, may be allowed to rear an- other queen from her brood ; otherwise, give them brood from a queen that you know to be pure. METHOD OF ITALIANIZING A WHOLE APIARY. There is another method of changing an apiary where there is a large number, that may be less trouble than the foregoing. Those who are not fully acquainted with the natural history of bees, will be hardly able to compre- hend it, yet I shall give it, and trust to their becoming familiar with the whole subject. Queens enough can be reared in one summer to supply the whole apiary, no matter how many may be required, and if tins is decided upon,/take no pains to isolate, but rear all the queens at home/and let them meet the native drone. These will produce mixed workers, but pure drones.— The impregnation of a queen has no effect on her drone progeny. — Introduce a queen into each stock, and the next season, perhaps before, if done early, all the drones will be pure Italians. Now raise another set of queens from the original pure one ; the drones of the yard being all pure, they can hardly fail to meet them, and consequently the second generation of workers will be pure. "'Occasionally, a queen will produce hybrid workers ; "as soon as discovered, remove her, and substi- tute another. THE ITALIAN OB LIGUEIAN BEE. 323 RAISING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS. ARTIFICIAL QUEENS. I term queens reared as about to be described, artificial queens, in contra-distinction to those raised by the bees in the process of natural swarming. We will first see how it is to be done with the movable comb hive, for it is to be presumed that most who raise them will use this hive in some form, as without it, all the advantages will not be realized, HOY/" TO BEAR THEM. Rearing queens artificially is done by enclosing a few bees, a pint or a quart, without a queen, with a small piece of comb containing larvse or eggs. Make a little box, or miniature hive, large enough to hold three combs or more, four or five inches square. Suspend frames within, just as in the hive. Fit in them pieces of dry =-sss»^=«r^^srs'=w^ clean comb, and fasten life j«P5r^ if" with a bit of tin. Get a piece of comb containing eggs or larvae, cut in this Fig. 34.— comb containing brood shape, two inches long by FROM WHICH TO RAISE QUEENS. ft ^ mQrQ ^ ^ ^ inch wide. Cut a piece the same size, except underside, out of the middle of one of the combs, and insert it thus, sup- ported by each end. — See Fig. 34. — The bees will weld it fast in a few hours. The space cut out below, gives room to make the queen-cells, and they are quite sure to make them here. "When the larvce are just the right age, six or eight queens will sometimes mature in 10 or 11 days, at other times, in 16 or 18. But if the grub is over four days old, it is doubtful if it can be changed to a queen. This shape of the piece of brood comb is better than square, as it gives a 324 THE ITALIAN" OR LIGTTRIAST BEE. chance to separate the cells should there he several. On a square piece they overlap each other, so that one cannot be cut out without spoiling most of the others. If you want to make the most of the cells you have, get ready another box with combs and bees, cut out a piece in the ^y/~\S ^ ,;■•- Fig. 85. — NO. 34 INSERTED IN A COMB READY FOR THE REARING BOX. centre of the comb, and having carefully cut out a queen- cell, put it in this space, without bruising or rudely shak- ing it. The bees accept this instead of brood, and they will have a queen ten days sooner by the operation. In about one-third of the cases, the bees will destroy such cell ; the operation must then be repeated. It would insure safety in all cases, if the cell, with three or four bees from the rearing box, and a small quantity of honey in a cub of tin-foil or some convenient material, could be THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 325 enclosed in a wire-cloth cage, and remain thus until the queen hatches, and they have become reconciled to her presence. It will not do to postpone the removal of these cells for more than ten days if you wish to he sure of saving Fig. 36. — QUEEN CELLS MADE ON INSERTED COMB. all the queens. I have known the oldest one to come out of her cell, and destroy all the others in ten clays from the time they commenced rearing them. HOW TO OBTAIN BEES FOR REARING QUEENS. The bees to rear queens, should, when practicable, be obtained from hives at least a mile and a half from the place where the queens are to be raised. Take them from a strong colony. If from the box-hive, invert it and drive out a quart or Uvo into an empty hive or box, look out the queen if among them, and put her back. If they 328 THE ITALIAN OB LIGTTEIAN BEE. are to be taken from the Movable Comb Hive, take out two or three combs and shake the bees off beside the box, into which they will run if it is set down with one edge raised a little, taking care all the time to not get the queen. Shut up the bees by tying a cloth over. Have an inch hole in the top of the box containing them, and when the small box, with comb, brood, etc., is all ready, set it over it, and the bees will enter at once. Not find- ing a queen, in a few hours they will commence rearing one or more, by converting common cells into queen-cells, and worker-larvae into queens. If the bees have been taken from a colony at home, it will be necessary to con- fine them from thirty-six to forty-eight hours, otherwise they may return to the old colony. If taken from a colony at a distance, less time will answer. They should be fed when shut up, unless some of their combs are filled with honey. By obtaining the bees in the middle of the day while the old ones are out foraging, a large proportion will be young bees that have never left the hive, which are considered by many to be better for this purpose than old ones ; at least they cannot know the wayto their homes. BLACK BEES AS NURSES. Much has already been said relative to the propriety of having black bees as nurses to raise Italian queens. Some allege that they impart some taint to the young queen, which affects all her future progeny. Mr. Lang- stroth, who is entitled to as much confidence as any one, thinks it makes but little difference which variety rears the queen, provided there is a goodly number and plenty of honey. I have never been able to detect any difference. The largest and best queens are reared near the swarming season. I have observed that a larger proportion of dark and undersized ones are raised in cool weather in the fall. THE ITALIAN OR LIGTTBLOT BEE. 327 I have raised nineteen in twenty beautiful queens from one mother, in July and August ; and from the same in Octo- ber, three out of four would be black and small. Mr. Langstroth suggests that the cause of this lies in their being reared by weak colonies. After close observa- tion, I have failed to discover much in confirmation of this view. Weak nuclei with abundance of honey, in warm weather, raise fair queens ; strong ones in cool weather raise very poor ones. BEST TIME TO OBTAIN BROOD. From noon till 3 P. M. is decidedly the best time in the day to obtain the brood. While busy at work, the bees have not time to notice what is going on. Go to the hive, containing your best Italian brood, and take out different combs, till you find brood of the right age, and with a sharp knife, cut out suitable pieces. Have at hand some empty clean brood comb, from which cut pieces to ex- actly replace them. The bees will soon fasten them in place. In these cases it is well to have some smoke on . hand, in case of emergency, but it is seldom necessary. Care must be observed not to allow brood or a queen-cell to become chilled. The rearing boxes, being small, will be affected by the changes of the weather, more than hives, and on some occasions will need some protection. Throw a blanket over the box, or take it in the house for the night. It is unnecessary to raise queens before there are any drones to meet them. It is said by some that the drone should be at least two weeks old. About the fifth or sixth day after the queen leaves the cell, she issues for the pur- pose of meeting the drone ; if successful, she commences laying about the eighth day. This rule, however, like oth- ers, is liable to exceptions. The queen may be safely in- troduced to the native stock, by taking the following pre- 328 THE ITALIAN OR LIGTJRIAN BEE. cautions. A laying queen is received better than a virgin. The colony to receive her should be prepared a few days previously by removing its queen. FINDING BLACK QUEEN. She is most easily found in the middle of the day when the workers are abroad. If you can take out the frames without alarming the bees, your chances of success are more certain. Protect the face, and proceed without smoke. Pry loose the propolis fastenings, and raise off the top with the utmost caution, without jarring or thumping the hive sufficient to give alarm. Have an empty hive near, in which to put the frames as you take them out. Examine the centre combs, or those filled with brood first, when you can conveniently. Look over each one carefully; if not disturbed, the bees will be spread evenly over the surface, and her majesty is easily distinguished, when she can be readily taken up with the fingers. But if an alarm ia raised, she is the most timid of any, and will get away in the corners of the hive, or among a mass of bees, where it will need close scrutiny to detect her.* In such case, you can either return the whole, and try it again some other time, or divide, putting one half the contents in the empty hive, and if possible the largest share of bees. Separate the combs in each, putting them only in the alternate spaces. If several hives are used, they can be still farther separated, which will be of some advantage. They be- come quiet in a few minutes, and the queen will venture out in sight. The bees on the comb with her will be quiet, while the others will manifest considerable uneasi- ness. This will direct your attention to the proper comb. To return the combs to the hive, in the relative position before occupied, number them before any are removed. There is still another method of finding the queen which * The Italians are seldom much alarmed, and the queen is easier found. THE ITALIAN OR LIGTJRIAN BEE. 329 may be preferred. Make a box about one foot square, having one of its sides in the form of a door, with hinges, and a catch to hold it shut. *Let another side be made of narrow slats or strips five thirty-seconds of an inch apart. These strips are better made of zinc, cut very accurately, but wood will answer. Shake the bees from the combs and let them enter this box, close the door, and sift the bees — shaking them lengthwise off the bars. The workers pass through the spaces, the queen, and drones, if any, are retained. If shaken in front of the hive, the bees enter as they drop out. The shaking confuses them so that they are not disposed to sting.* The bees, when returned to the hive destitute of a queen, will at once commence operations to remedy the loss, by converting some of the worker larvae into queens. In about seven days all the eggs left will have passed the period when it is possible to change them thus. Now take out the combs again, and cut off all royal cells that con- tain larvee. The safety of the queen introduced, depends greatly on their entire removal. The queen might be introduced in less time than this, and be accepted, at least without being stung imme- diately, yet being so different from the old mother, they are not always satisfied, and when they have means, will sometimes rear another, notwithstanding her presence. It is best to allow them no such opportunity. INTRODUCTION OF QUEEN. Introduce the queen thus. Secure her with two or three of her workers, and a little honey in a wire-cloth cage, and insert it among the combs. At the end of twenty-four hours, she may be let out among the bees, and when the foregoing preliminaries are observed — will be — * Wiien the hives from which the bees are taken for rearing boxes, contain black drones, they may be separated very readily by this method of sifting. 330 THE ITALIAN OR LIGUEIAN BEE. as far as my experience extends — well received. I have succeeded with equal satisfaction, and much less trouble with the following method *due to Mr. L. A. Aspinwall. It is simply to immerse the queen in a little honey — slightly warmed, if necessary — and drop her among the bees, which immediately commence licking her off, and forget that she is a usurper. This is so much less trouble that I prefer it, and consider myself very much indebted to him for the suggestion. I would remark that if the Italian queen is introduced in the swarming season, when the bees are gathering abundance of honey, and the colony is strong enough to divide — making two — it would be well to do so, as it saves the trouble of looking up more than one queen for two hives, and you can find this one with much less trouble. (Directions for dividing may be found in the chapter on artificial swarms.) ITALIANIZING THE BOX HIVE. There are some who will still continue to use the box hive, who will wish to furnish them with Italian queens. It can be done, but involves a little more trouble, and the bees are kept a little longer without a laying queen ; there is also a delay of some weeks, before you are certain of success. The process is as follows : Drive out the bees, find and remove the queen, allow- ing the bees to return immediately. According to the rule, in twelve days they will mature a successor, and the first one that hatches will destroy the others before they mature. In eight days she will commence laying. This must not be allowed, but as soon as it is certain that she has destroyed all her royal sisters, which will be in two or three days at farthest, and before she begins laying, she herself must be destroyed. — Any immature queens found about the entrance will indicate the des- THE ITALIAN OK LIGUEIAN BEE. 331 traction of her rivals. Drive out the bees again, find and kill the queen, and again return them. There is no possibility of their rearing another queen, and the Italian may be introduced in three days without much risk, if the usual precautions are taken. Should the first queen that matures in such case, lead out a swarm instead of destroying her royal sisters, (which she would be likely to do, at any time near the swarming season,) it will be some days later before they are killed, and unless the colony is very strong, it would be best to return the swarm. Hive it, and set it near the parent stock till the next morning, then set the bees to running into the old hive, and secure the queen. When the piping entirely ceases, it may be taken as evidence that but one queen remains, and that it is time to operate. If it is desired to introduce a queen into a stock that has swarmed it can be done on the same principle. The only important point is to secure the queen remaining after the destruction of the others, before she has begun to lay. Any hive that loses its queen by her coming out to meet the drone, may be supplied by simply taking the trouble to introduce one. A neighbor has successfully introduced them to the box hive, at the beginning of the swarming season. As soon as a stock can spare a swarm, and before any queen- cells are finished preparatory to swarming, he drives out in the middle of the day a small swarm, and removes the old hive a few feet and places the new one on its stand. The old bees, that are acquainted with the old place, re- turn there and make it strong. Two days afterward the young bees that are hatching readily accept of any queen that is given them. Old bees would be likely to destroy them w T hen given under similar circumstances. Queens may be introduced into the box hive by another process, in October or November, after the queen is done 332 THE ITALIAN OR LIGUEIAN BEE. laying, or at any time 'when there is no brood in the combs from which to rear queens. Drive out the bees, remove the old queen, and return them. At the end of a week introduce the Italian, and all will be right. If there is any risk of eggs or larvae remaining, keep the bees out of the hive for a week ; keeping the box containing them with a little food, in the cellar or any safe place, till it is too late to rear a queen from their own means ; then return them, and at the proper time introduce the queen. I will give a method by which, with only one movable comb-hive, a small apiary may be Italianized in one season. Firstly, introduce an Italian queen into a colony occupy- ing such hive. Drive out all the bees of some good stock into an empty hive, and set this on the stand. Take the hive from which the bees were driven, with its contents, to the stand of the one with movable combs. Lift out the combs and shake or brush the bees down by the box-hive, which they will immediately enter. Now take the mov- able comb-hive with contents to the other stand, and put that colony in it, and your colonies have simply traded hives, and each will carry on its usual operations, the same as if it had always been there. The one with movable combs can now be controlled. After a few hours, when the bees have become quiet, take out the combs, find and destroy the common queen. In a week cut out all queen cells, and give them an Italian queen, and when she has filled the comb with eggs, four or five days after, this colony may be transferred also. Continue the process until all are changed. The cells cut out being Italian, may be put in the rearing boxes to hatch. TRANSPORTING QUEEN. A queen with a handful of bees can, with proper care, bo sent safely one thousand miles by express. To pack PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 333 her properly, have a box just a little larger in length and depth than one of the small frames in the rearing boxes ; width about two inches inside. The bottom should be square ; top the width of the box, and held by screws. The comb should be old and tough, and contain honey enough for the journey. CHAPTER XXV. PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. QUALIFICATIONS FOR AN APIARIAN. If the reader has no bees, and yet has had interest or patience to follow me thus far, it is presumptive evidence that he possesses the perseverance requisite to take charge of an apiary. He must, however, remember the inevitable anxieties and perplexities, and the amount of time that proper care requires, as well as the advantages and profit. But if he is disposed to try the experiment, some initiatory directions may very likely be acceptable. LUCK. The apparent uncertainty of success in bee-keeping has encouraged a general belief in the old tradition of "luck," and in no particular must the "fickle dame" be conciliated so much, as in the manner of obtaining the bees. Concerning this important operation, there seems to be a variety of opinions. One will assert that favor is secured by stealing one or two stocks to begin with, and returning them at some future time. Another, a little more conscientious perhaps, says, that you must take them without liberty, but leave an equiva- lent in money on the stand. 334 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. A third assures us, that the only way to secure an effectual charm, is to exchange sheep for them; and a fourth affirms that bees must always be a gift. These methods have all been recommended to me, with gravity enough to make an impression. But another method has been discovered, which works very well, and that is, when you want bees, go and buy them, and pay for them, in dollars and cents, or some other equivalent. And you need not depend on any mysterious charm, for success, — if you do, I can but pre- dict failure. It is true that a few believers in " luck " will occasionally prosper, but it must be the result of accident, for where the true principles of management are not ob- served, how can it be otherwise? It is a saying with some that " one man can have luck but few years at once," and others, none at all, although he tries the whole routine of charms. Thirty years ago, when my respected neigh- bor predicted a "turn in my luck, because it was always so," I could not understand the force of the reasoning, unless it belonged to the nature of bees to deteriorate, and consequently run out. I at once determined to as- certain the truth for myself. I could understand how a farmer would often fail in raising his crops, if he depended on chance or luck, in- stead of upon the fixed principles of nature. It seemed to me quite possible -that the same reasoning would apply to the culture of bees. I observed that in good seasons the majority of bee-keepers were " lucky," and in poor seasons, the reverse ; and when two or three of the latter occurred in succession, they always "lost their luck." It was evident then, that if my bees could by any means survive the poor seasons, they would do well enough in good ones. The result has given me but little reason to complain. My advice therefore, is, that reliance be placed on PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 335 proper management, alone, and that all superstitious no- tions of propitiating some mystic power be thrown to the winds.* It is quite common for beginners to take bees "on shares " as it is termed ; it is a cheap way to begin, and there is no risk of loss in capital. The general rule is this : one or more stocks are taken for a term of years, the person taking them, finding hives and boxes, and bestowing the necessary care, and re- turning the old stocks to the owner, with half the increase and half of the annual profits. Yet, if bees prosper, the interest on the money paid for them is a mere trifle compared to the value of the increase, and there is the same trouble. On the other hand, the owner can afford to take care of a few hives more, for the half of the profits which he has to give, if another takes them. There are yet a few persons- who refuse to sell a colony of bees, because it is "bad luck." There is often a foun- dation for this notion. Suppose a person has half a dozen hives, three extra good — the others, the opposite. He sells the three good ones, for the sake of the better price ; there is but little doubt but his " luck " will go too. But had he sold the poorer ones, the result would doubtless have been very different. But sometimes apiarians have more bees than they wish too keep, and such are the ones of which to buy. Purchasers seldom want any but first-rate stocks — such are generally cheapest in the end. * I receive scores of letters, detailing the continued success of the writers, till they can count their colonies by hundreds, arising from the adoption of a common sense method of management. 338 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. PURCHASE THE BEST. Firstly then, select first-class stocks ; it will make but little difference whether they are obtained in fall or spring, if winter management is understood. I have al- ready said that the requisites for winter were, a numer- ous family and plenty of honey, and that the cluster of bees should extend through nearly all the combs. AVOID DISEASED STOCK. To avoid diseased brood, make your purchases, if pos- sible, in an apiary where it has not made its appearance. There are some who have lost bees from this cause — and yet were totally ignorant of the fact. It is well there- fore, to inquire if any stocks have been lost, and trace out the cause, being careful not to mistake the immedi- ate occasion of the loss, for the primary one — which may be disease. OLD STOCKS NOT OBJECTIONABLE. If you are satisfied that there is no foul brood, you need not object to stocks two or three years old, they are as good and sometimes better than others, especially if they have swarmed the season previous, because such always have young queens, which are said to be more prolific than the old ones, which are nearly always found in first swarms. When no apiary from which to purchase can be found except those in which the disease prevails, you cannot be too cautious in making a selection. It would be saf- est in this case to take none but young swarms, as it is very uncommon for any to be affected the first season. Old stocks are as prosperous as any, as long as they are healthy, but they are more liable to become diseased than young swarms. If you are not allowed to take all young stocks, ex- PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 337 amine them in pretty cold weather, as the bees will be farther up among the combs, and give an opportunity for inspecting them. About November, all the healthy brood will be hatched. Sometimes a few young bees may be left that have matured, and have been chilled by sudden cold weather, but these are not diseased — the bees will remove them the next season, and no bad results will follow. In warm weather, a satisfactory in- spection can be made, only with the use of smoke. Be particular to reject all that are affected with the disease in the least ; do without, rather than begin with such. (A full description of the disease has been given in Chap, xiv.) A neighbor once purchased thirteen hives; six were old ones, the others swarms of the previous season. He probably knew nothing of foul brood, and as the old hives were heavy, he thought them good, but five of the six were badly affected. Four were a total loss, except the honey ; the fifth lasted through the winter, and then had to be transferred. He had flattered himself that they were obtained very cheaply, but when he estimated the cost of the good ones, he found no great reason for congratulation. Another point is worthy of consideration : endeavor to get hives as near the right size as possible, (viz.) 2000 cubic inches, — better too large than too small. If too large, they may be cut off, leaving them the proper size, although this often makes the shape ungainly. But as the shape probably makes no difference in the prosperity of the bees, when extremes are avoided, the appearance is the principal objection.* * A hive may be cut off with very little trouble in a cold day. Turn it over — the bees will soon find it too cold to venture out— mark it the right size, and saw it off. Lift off the piece, and trim off the combs even with the bottom of the hive. Use smoke to drive the bees from the ends of the combs. 15 338 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. TRANSPORTING BEES. In transporting your bees, avoid, if possible, the two extremes of very cold, or very warm weather. In the latter the combs are so nearly melted, that the weight of the honey well bend them, bursting the cells, spilling the honey, and besmearing the bees. In very cold weather, the combs are brittle, and easily detached from the sides of the hive. When it is necessary to move them in winter, they should be put up an hour or two before starting. The agitation of the bees on being disturbed will create considerable heat, which imparted to the combs, will make them less brittle. Have ready some carpet tacks, and pieces of thin muslin about half a yard square. Invert the hive, put the cloth over, neatly folded and fastened with a tack at the corners, and another in the middle of each side. Crowd the tack in about two-thirds of its length ; it is then convenient to pull out when required. If the bees are to be taken some distance, and must be confined for several days, the muslin will hardly be sufficient, and wire-cloth must be substituted. New comb will break more easily than old. Probably the best mode of conveyance is in a wagon with elliptic springs. A wagon without springs is bad, especially for young stocks ; yet I have known them to be moved safely in this way with care in packing hay or straw under and around them, and careful driving. When there is good sleighing, a sleigh will answer very well, and some prefer this method of transportation. Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive should be inverted. The combs will then rest on the top, and are less liable to break than when right end up, because in the latter case the whole weight of the combs must come upon the fastenings at the top and sides, and these are easily broken. PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 339 It is considerable trouble to prepare the movable comb hive to be turned over, yet for long journeys, it is abso- lutely necessary. Put sticks on each side of each comb, in about two places, to hold it steady, (see directions for transferring combs in Chap, xix,) then lay on the top of the frames, cross-wise, thin strips to hold them in place — and fasten on the honey board with screws. Turn the hive over, and cover the bottom with wire- cloth. With proper care they may be sent by Rail Road one thousand miles. I can devise no convenient way of fastening the combs in hives that have permanent bot- tom-boards, such as Mr. Langstroth and some others use. Some other patent hives, like Mr. Hazen's, cannot be inverted for transportation. Such must of necessity be carried right side up. I sometimes transport movable comb hives in this manner for very short distances, but with much fear of breakage. When I send off a colony of Italians, I dare not risk them thus. When bees are moved, thus inverted, they will creep upward ; in stocks part full, they will often nearly all leave the combs and get upon the covering. In a short time after being set up, they "will return, except in very cold weather, when a few will sometimes freeze, consequently, they should be put in a warm room for a short time. After carrying them a few miles the disposition to sting is generally gone. When bees are confined in moderate weather, they manifest a persevering determination to find their way out, particularly after being moved, and somewhat disturbed. I have known them to bite holes through muslin in three days. The same difficulty is often experienced in attempting to confine them to the hive, by cloth, when in the house in winter. Should any combs become broken, or detached from 340 conclusion. their fastenings, by moving, rendering them liable to fall when set up, the hive may remain inverted on the stand, till warm weather if necessary, and the bees have fastened them, which they will do soon after commencing work in the spring. If they are so badly broken that they bend over, rolls of paper should be put between them to preserve the proper distance, till secured. While the hive is inverted it is essential that there is a hole in the side, through which the bees may work. A board should fit closely over the bottom, and be covered with a roof to effectually exclude all water, etc. When they com- mence making new combs it is time to turn the hive right end up. CHAPTER XXVI. CONCLUSION. In conclusion I would say that the apiarian who has followed me attentively, and has added nothing of value to his stock of information, possesses an enviable ex- perience. It has been said, that " three out of five who commence bee-keeping must fail;" but we must suppose that the fault arises from ignorance or inattention, and is not in- herent in the bees. To the beginner, then, I would say : if you expect to succeed in obtaining one of the most delicious of sweets for your own consumption, or its equivalent value in dollars and cents, you will find some- thing more to be requisite than merely "holding the dish to catch the porridge." " See your bees often," and and know at all times, their actual condition. This one precept is worth more than all others that can be given ; CONCLUSION. 341 it stands at the head of all the duties of the apiarian. Even the grand secret of successful resistance to the worms " keep your bees steong " is subordinate to this. With proper and persevering application of the above motto, you cannot fail to realize all reasonable expecta- tions. Avoid over-anxiety for a rapid increase; be satisfied with one good swarm from a stock annually — : your chances of future success are better than with a sudden increase of numbers. You will probably be obliged to discard some extravagant ideas of profits from the apiary. Yet you will find one stock trebling, per- haps quadrupling its price or value, in products, while One beside it does nothing. In particularly favorable seasons your stocks collectively will yield a profit of one or two hundred per cent, — in others hardly make a return for trouble. I have known the proceeds of a single co- lony in one season to amount to $35.00 ; and an apiary of ninety stocks to produce over $900, some of which added not a farthing to the amount. A bee-keeper in an adjoining county reports a profit of $1,800 from one hundred and thirty hives in a single season. The proper estimate can be made only after a number of years, when, if they have been judiciously managed, and your anti- cipations have not been too extravagant, you will be fully satisfied. I do not wish to induce any one to begin bee-keeping, and relinquish it in disgust and disappointment. But I would encourage all suitable persons to try their skill in bee-management. I say suitable persons, because there are many, very many, not qualified for the charge. The careless, inattentive man who leaves his bees un- noticed from October till May, is the one who will be likely to complain of want of success. Whoever cannot find time to give his bees the needed care, but can spend an hour a day in gossiping at the 342 CONCLUSION". neighboring bar-room, is unfit for this business. But bow can be, who has a home, and finds his interest divided be- tween that and the idle attractions of the tavern, and wishes to withdraw from unprofitable associates, employ his time with a better prospect of success than in the care of bees ? They make ample returns for every attention. And the gain may not be altogether pecuniary. A great many points in their natural history are yet undiscovered, and the truth of many others disputed. "Would it not be a source of satisfaction to be able to contribute a few more facts upon this interesting subject, and thus hold a share in the general fund of scientific knowledge ? Granting all the mysteries pertaining to their economy to be discovered and elucidated, precluding all necessity of further investigation, would the study be dry and mo- notonous ? On the contrary, the daily verification of es- tablished facts would be so fascinating and instructive, that we could not avoid a sentiment of pity for the condi- tion of that man who finds gratification only in the gross and sensual. It has been remarked that " he who cannot find in this and other branches of natural history a salutary exercise for bis mental faculties, inducing a habit of observation and reflection, a pleasure so easily obtained, unalloyed by any debasing mixture — tending to expand and harmonize his mind, and elevate it to conceptions of the majestic, sublime, serene and beautiful arrangements instituted by the God of Nature, must possess an organization sadly deficient, or be surrounded by circumstances indeed la- mentable." I would recommend the study of the honey- bee, as one best calculated to awaken the interest of the indifferent. What can arrest the attention like their or- ganism — their diligence in collecting stores for the future — their secretion of wax and formation of it into struc- tures with a mathematical precision astonishing the pro- CONCLUSION. 343 foundest philosophers — their maternal and fraternal affec- tion in regarding the mother's every want, and assiduous care in nursing her offspring to maturity, and their un- accountable display of instinct in emergencies, filling the beholders with wonder and amazement? The mind thus contemplating such wondrous operations, cannot avoid looking beyond these results to their Divine Author. Therefore let every mind that receives one ray of light from nature's mysterious transactions, and is capable of deriving the least enjoyment therefrom, pursue the path still inviting onward. Every new acquisition will yield an additional satisfac- tion and renewed courage for the next attempt which will be made with a constantly increasing zest ; and he will arise from the contemplation, a wiser, better, nobler being; far superior to those who have never looked beyond mere animal gratifications. Is there in the whole circle of nature's exhaustless store- house, any one science more inviting, more refining, and more exalting than this ? Acerrubrum 78 " saccharinum 79 After-swarms, How issuing 178 " Queens of 179 " Leaving hive 179 " Not choosing weather. .179 " Size of, etc 175 " To return them 180 Alder, Common or Candle "78 Alnus serrulata . — 78 Alsike or Swedish White Clover 81 Altheea rosea 88 Ants 233 Aphis 85 Apiarian, Qualifications for 833 Apiary, Italianizing the 322 " Location of 100 " Location marked 102 " Should not he moved.. 102 Asclepias Cornuti. 82 Aspen 78 Basswood 83, 99 Bee, Italian or Ligurian.. ..225, 308, 311, 318 " " Disposition of. 314 " " Purity of 318 " " Bobbing Propensities of..313 " " Swarming of \ 315 Bee-bread in drone cells 91 Bee-charms '■ 225 Bee-houses Ill Unprofitable 107 Bee-moth - 129, 231 Bee-pasturage 76 Bees, Age of 201 " Anger of 221 " Battles of 121 " Before young commence labor.. 26 " Black, for nurses 326 " Burying 299 Bees, Driving in cold weather 207 " Enemies of .....228 " Equalization of — 120 " Examination of 149 " Feeding of 122 " For raising queens 325 " Housing 296 " How they attack 223 " " togetridof 141 '■ Improvement of 819 " Injuring grain 89 " In moth-webs 237,238 " Issuing 15 8 '• Killing 268 " Lost on snow 305 " Manner of feeding. ..124, 126, 127, 129 " Nature of 20 " Necessary to insure a crop 91 " Necessities of 48 " Paralyzing 271 " Protection against ....227 " Bough treatment of young 25 " Sagacity of 263,261 " Starvation of, in winter 287 " Sting of 226 " Swarming of 146 " Terms applied to young 27 " Transferring 259, 260, 262 » " advantages of 294 " Transporting 333, 338 " Warm room for 294 " Water lor 252,292 " When boxes are taken off 141 " When no swarm issues 35 " Wintering 284 " " after scarcity of honey 274 » " Cellar for .295 " " Straw-hive for 73 " With dysentery 287 Bottom board. Inclined 50 Box, Making holes in when full. 137 " Simple 804 Boxes, Advantage of glass 139 LNDEX. 345 Boxes, Putting on and taking off 135 " Too eaay of access 13S " To prevent queen entering 139 " Transferred 193 " "When to take off 140 Breeding and physiology 22 " In large and small colonies.. 23 Brood, Best time for 327 " Diseased 210 " " cause and remedy 212 " " description of 211,216 " " examination of 218 i_ " " Mr. Wagner's view of..217 " "When they begin to rear 22 Buckwheat 89,99 Button-ball 88 C Cat-bird 230 Catnip 80 Cells, Containing honey for daily use. . 95 " For drones 251 " For rearing queens 29 " Uniformity of .252 Cephalanthus occidentalis 88 Chamber hive 49 Cherry, Wild 79 Chickens eat drones 230 Chrysalis 27 Clover , 80, 81, 99 Clustering bushes 161 Colonies, Deserting when destitute.... 124 " Inclined to rob. 267 " Selecting for winter 266 Size of 285 " When to feed 124 Conclusion 340 Comb, Commencement of 247 " Constructed as needed 96 " Crooked 250 " Melting of 254 " Removing 279 " Straight 250 Dandelion 79 Diervilla triflda 81 Disease 210 " Cause and remedy 212 " Description of 211 " Manner of spreading 216 . " Mr. Wagner's view of 217 Diseased brood, Knowledge of. 220 Drone and worker-combs ...191 Drone cells 251 Drone-comb 195 Drone-combs, Too many 192 1* Drone eggs, Theories about unimpreg- nated 39, 40 " When laid 86 Drone-layers 36, 37 Drones 19 " Ageof 20 " Colony for 321 " Destroyed before swarming 33 " Eaten by chickens 230 " Needed 197 " Number of 35 " Theories relative to 36 " "When met by queen 29 " "When reared 33 " "Why sometimes killed 152 Dysentery among bees 287 E Eggs, Number laid by queen 30, 31 " Of drones, When laid 36 " When they hatch 25 F Feeding, A last .resort 122 " Care in 123 " Manner of 126 Object of 127 " Promiscuous 129 " When best 277 " Refuse honey, 281 Flowers of fruits 79 " Yielding pollen first 78 Fruit flowers, Important 79 Fumigator 271 G Glass boxes, Advantage of. 139 Grub 27 Guide-comb 64 H Hamamselis Virginiana 88 Hive, Accessibility of 265 " Chamber 49 " Changeable 51 " Common box 58, 61,304 " Dividing 50 " Farmer's 57 " In cold weather 317 " Italianizing the box 330 " Moth-proof 54,134 " Movable comb 66 " " How made 68 " To use... 171, 191, 194 " Non-swarmer 55 " Observatory 75 " Of straw, for winter ,73 346 INDEX. Hive, Proper size of 58 " Setting out 297 " Suspended 50 " Top of, not fastened 62 " Ventilating 54 Hives 40 " Best cover for 107 " Certificates and premiums for.... 47 " Cheap stand for 104 " Desirabilities of 05 " Discovery about 49 " Furnished for trial 48 " Housed for winter 107 " Malting holes in when full 293 " No patent for 40 " Of different colors 109 " Principles of 49 " Remedy when crowded 317 " Setting out 297 " Shade for 305 " Should be ready 154 " Space between 103 " Straw 300 " Too high 105 " With inclined bottoms 50 " Worms in.. _. 243 Hoarhound 80 Holl yh ock 88 Honey-boxes 63 " " Transferred 193 Honey and wax, Straining .279 " Best season for 98 " Discharging 94 " Distance bees will go for 100 " Feeding refuse 281 " From buckwheat 89 " From one swarm 250 " In boxes in the hive 192 " In cells for daily use 95 " Principal sources of 77 Substitute for 77 " The first 79 " To secure from worms 143 Honey-dew 85 Honeysuckle, Bush 81 I Introductory 17 K King-bird, A word for 229 L. Larva 27 Laying 24 Leonurus Cardiaca 80 Leucanthemum vulgare 81 Linaria vulgaris 81 Linden 84 Liriodendron Tulipifera 83 Locust 79 M Making box-hives 61 " honey-boxes 63 " movable comb-hives 68 Mallows 88 Malva rotundifolia 88 Maple, Ked 78 Sugar 79 Marrubium vulgare 80 Metheglin and vinegar 281 Mice 304 Mice and rats 229 Mignonette 88 Milkweed, Singular fatality of. 82 Moth 234 " Destruction of 241 " In hives 243 " Remedies for 244 " "Where deposits its eggs 236 Moth-proof hives 54, 134 Moth- worm, Destruction of 129 " Found in best stocks 129 " Fears the bees 130 " How destroyed ,131 " In centre of comb 237 In old stocks 239 " Size of 240 " Troubles small colonies. .181 Motherwort 80 Mustard. 84 N Nepeta Cataria 80 Nyniph 2Y O Ox-eye, Daisy 81 Pasturage for bees 76 Physiology and breeding 22 Plant-louse 85 Pollen, flowers yielding first 78 " Manner of discharging 94 " Manner of packing 77 " Substitute for 76 " Two kfhds in one cell 92 Populus tremuloides 78 Propolis 256 " Abundance of 258 Wax instead of. 257 Pruning 205, 209 Prunus serotina 79 i Pupa........ 27 HSTDEX. 347 Queen, Age and office of. 18 " Description of 17 *' Finding black 328 " Introduction of. . , 329 " Leaves hive to meet drone.. 29, 198 " Maturing of 27 " Number of eggs will lay 30 " One destroys others 184 " Piping of 176 " Presence of. 32,93, 331 " Question about her leaving. . . .195 " Kegard of -workers for 18 " Similarity of eggs with worker.. 28 " Time to lay eggs 193 " Transporting the 332 ". When the old leaves 35, 153 " Toung takes place of the old one 35 Queen-cells, Introduction of. 190 " Artificial 323 " Black bees nurses for.., 326 Queens, cells for rearing 29 " Destroyed before swarming... 33 " Laying 24 " Loss of 195, 200, 203 " Loss of and remedy 201,203 " Mixing of 321 " Obtaining bees for 325 " Ovaries of 41 " Kaising and introducing 323 " Reared in swarming liives. ... 33 " Replacing 109 " Time of leaving 199 " To obtain bees for 325 " Variations in color of 319 " When lost 198 R Eats and mice 229 Ked Clover 80 Red Raspberry 80 Removing combs 279 Renewing combs 209 Reseda odorata 88 Rhus glabra 84 Robbers, when to look out for 116 " First indication of 117 " Remedies for 118 Robbing, Not understood 113 " Difficulty in deciding 117 " Weak colonies in danger of..H5 Robinia Pseudacia 79 Rubus strigosus,' 80 Rumex Acetosella SO S Sails Vitellina 79,85 Shade 305 Silkweed, Singular fatality of 82 Sinapis nigra 84 Skunk-Cabbage 78 Smoker 224 Snap-dragon 81 Sorrel 80 Spiders 234 Stand for hives, Cheap 104 Sting of bee 226 Stings, Remedy for 227 Stocks, Causes of weakness 268 How many to keep 9Y Old not objectionable 336 Purchasing 33? Requisites of 267 Uniting 275 Uniting poor 269 Straining honey and was 279 Sumach J 84 Swarm-clusters 155 Swarm, honey from one 250 Swarming 146 How to doit 155 Indications of 148, 154 of Italian or Ligurian bee. ..315 Preparations for , 20, 150 When commences 147 Swarms, After, uniting 182 " troublesome 183 " rulefor 183 " how issuing 178 " number of queens of. .179 " not choosing weather.,179 " leaving parent hive .... 179 " to return them 180 " size of, etc 175 Artificial 185 " perplexities with. . . .185 " workwell 186 " first experience with.186 " how to make 188 " placing stands for. ..189 " queen-cell for 190 " drone-combs for 191 " with movable combs 191, 194 Choosing weather 174, 175 Clustering bushes for 161 Driving in cold weather 207 First enough 165 How far they will go 164 How to divide 167 How to keep separate 166 Loss of, by flight 103 348 INDEX. Swarms, Second, size of 175 " " when expected 175 " Selecting a home 164 " Shade important for 160 '• Should all he made to enter. .159 " Sometimes return 173 " Times of issuing 177 " To divide in movable comb- hives 171 " To put in movable comb- hives 160 United 270 " Water necessary for 252 •' When on the wing 167 " When they issue 151 Swedish white Clover or Alsike 81 Symphoricarpus fcetidus 78 T Theory, Mr. Wagner's, of drone-eggs... 39 " Mr. Harbison's, do 40 Tilia Americana 83 Toad ,-. ? 83i Toad-flax 81 Transferring bees 259-265 Transporting bees 333 queen 332 V Vinegar and metheglin. 281 j W Warmth 234,285 Wasp, black 233 Wax 245 " Abundance of 258 " Honey consumed for 53 " How obtained 246 " Instead of propolis 257 " Making 282 " Wasted..... 251,282 White clover 80 White-wood 83 Witch-hazel, Unusual secretion of. — 86 Willows 78,85 " Golden 79 Wintering bees 284, 295 " Building for 298 •' " Straw-hives for .'73 Worker and queen-eggs 28 Workers 19 Ageof 19 Worm, Destruction of 241 " In old stocks 239 '" Sizeof 240 Worms, How they get in 144 " In centre of comb 237 In hives 243 " Remedy for 145, 244 " To secure honey from 143 Wren, Box for 185 THE MODERN HORSE DOCTOR: CONTAINING PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS CAUSES, NATURE, AND TREATMENT DISEASE AND LAMENESS IN HORSES EMBRACING THE MOST RECENT AND APPROVED METHODS, ACCORDING TO AH ENLIGHTENED SYSTEM OF VETERINARY THERAPEUTICS, FOR THE PRESERVATION AND RESTORATION OF HEALTH. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. By GEORGE H. DADD, M. D., VETERINARY SURGEON, A"SH0BOr ANATOMT AKD PHTStOLOQT OF THE HOE3E, AKD TUS BEFORMED CATTLE DO-TOa TWELFTH THOUSAND. NEW-YORK : ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW 18G6. THE GRAPE CULTU.KIST: A TREATISE CULTIVATION OF THE NATIVE GRAPE ANDREW S. FULLER, PRACTICAL HOrtTICTJJLTTJItlST. Price, $1 50. 8EUT BY MAIL, PEEPAIB, ON BEOEIPT OF THE PEIOB. NEW-YORK : ORANGE JUDD & CO. 41 PARK ROW. 1866. THE ILLUSTRATED CONTAINING the HISTOET, SEXUALITY, FIELD AND GARDEN CULTURE OF STRAWBERRIES, FORCING OR POT CULTURE, HOW TO GROW FROM SEED, HYBRIDIZ- ING ; RESULTS OF EXTENSIVE EXPERIMENTS WITH SEEDLINGS, AND ALL OTHER INFORMATION NECESSARY TO ENABLE EVERYBODY TO RAISE THEIB OWN STRAWBERRIES ; TOGETHER WITH A FULL DESCRIPTION OF NEW TAJBIETXES AND A LIST OF THE BEST OF THE OLD SORTS. WITH RECEIPTS FOB. DIFFERENT MODES OF PRESERVING, COOKING, AND PREPARING STRAW- BERRIES FOR THE TABLE. FULLY ILLUSTRATED BY By ANDREW S. FULLER, J^ovticultuvist. TENTH THOUSAND. DanbtleuB God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did.— Izaac Wait >». l\ T EW-YORK : ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW. 18G6. DOMESTIC POULTRY: % ffractkal Crati&e Preferable Breeds of Farm-Yard Poultry, THEIR HISTORY AND LEADING CHARACTERISTICS ■WITH COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS FOR BREEDING AND FATTEN- ING, AND PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION AT POULTRY SHOWS, Etc., Etc.; DERIVED FROM THE AUTHOR'S EXPERIENCE AND OBSERVATION BY SIMON" M. SATINDEKS. VEIEfS* FULIiV ILLUSTEATED. »-•-• NEW-YORK : ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW. 1866. .\BRA RY OF c0 MGRE sS 002 841 796 2 «