1 EWING Without Mothers Help WHAT I fA^bbWlTH . MY.HaHDS CLARAINbRAM JUDSON ___JI111-MJ Mil— ■■■■■! mil ■■■■> TT* MHMsnwui SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Ell I = s t) a.1 K CTca I ta C3 >- r-i i Cutting the Apron pattern. Lesson 1. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP A Story Sewing' Book for Beginners BY .WCLARA INGRAM JUDSON AUTHOR OF COOKING WITHOUT MOTHER's HELP, FLOWER FAIRIES, BILLY ROBIN AND HIS NEIGHBORS, GOOD-NIGHT STORIES, BEDTIME TALES, THE MART JANE SERIES, AND OTHER WORKS NEW YORK THE NOURSE COMPANY PUBLISHERS Copyright, 1921, BY THE NOURSE COMPANY MAR 10 1921 ©CU608609 To ALICE, WHOSE HELP IN EXPERIMENT MADE THIS BOOK WHAT IT IS CONTENTS LESSON PAGE I. Making an Apron 9 11. A Handkerchief Bag and Hand- kerchief 21 Handkerchief Bag .... 25 Handkerchief 27 III. Making a Knitting Bag ... 33 IV. Doll Underwear 43 Shirt 49 Panties 50 V. Making a Doll Dress .... 55 VI. Making a Doll Cape and Hat . G'^ Cape 69 Hat 70 VII. Making Doll Bedding ... 75 Sheets 79 Pillow and Slips .... 79 Blanket 81 Comfort 81 Spread 82 VIII. Making a Skirt to Wear with Middies 85 IX. Making a Nightgown ... 99 X. Making A Kimono Ill XI. Making a Cook's Cap and Apron 121 Cap 126 Apron 127 XII. Making a "Slip-On" House Dress 133 STITCH EDGING ON THESE TURNEDIN SIDES LESSON 1. MAKING AN APRON. Alice Gerald hung up the receiver with more of a bang than was necessary and turned a disappointed face toward her mother and sister. "Her mother's away and she can't come," she announced. "Well, then," said Mary, "we'll have to plan something else." "But a cooking party was such a good idea," objected Alice, "and it just fits with an unexpected vacation like to-day. It isn't [9] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP nearly as much fun for you and me to go out and cook lunch, when we already know how to do it, as it would be to teach Frances; you know that yourself, Mary. It's some- thing new, that's the fun." "Then why not do something new your- selves?" suggested Mrs. Gerald, as she folded up the last bit of mending and set her work basket away. "It isn't as tho you knew everytJiingT she added, with a twinkle in her eye. "Yes, but you said you had work that had to be done this morning so you can't teach us and what should we learn any- way?" "How about sewing?" asked Mrs. Gerald. ''Really sewing — making something, do you mean, mother?" asked Alice eagerly. "Making something for ourselves?" "Surely," replied Mrs. Gerald, as matter- of-factly as tho it was nothing at all, "why not?" "Well " began Alice. "Yes, let's," interrupted Mary; "I've been wanting a new apron to wear to the church [10] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP supper next Friday. Could we make an apron?" "But we haven't any material,'* objected Alice. "Haven't we!" laughed mother; "you just see! Come out to the pantry and look." Much interested, the two girls followed their mother out to the pantry, watched her as she pulled out the drawer where she put worn-out articles of clothing till they could be given away, and saw her pull out two of their father's discarded shirts. Then she went back into the sewing room, pulled out the box of supplies and selected two cards of colored edging to match the shirts. "There!" she said, with a look of satisfac- tion, as she spread her supplies out on the table, "there's all you'll want except num- ber sixty white thread, and there's plenty of that in the machine drawer." "Where's the pattern?" asked Alice, who by this time was much interested. "In my head," laughed Mrs. Gerald, "and inside half an hour you will have cut one for yourself out of a newspaper. Remember [11] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP the note books you kept for cooking?" added Mrs. Gerald. The girls nodded (of course they remembered and they also remembered all the fun they had while making those very same note books!). "Suppose you start sewing note books, — you'll find two, and some pencils, in my desk drawer." The girls hurried off to the living room and Mrs. Gerald whisked out her tape line, a pencil and a pad and began measuring and planning. *'Now then," she said when they were back in the room again, "take down these direc- tions and be sure you get everything just right, for you know I'll not be here to show you or explain." And this is what the girls wrote down in their books : DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING AN APRON. Materials needed: One old soft shirt. One bolt machine-made edging (color to go with shirt). [18] Diagram for Apron Pattern and Apron, Lesson 1. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Number 60 white thread. One sheet paper for pattern (newspaper will do). Tape line, ruler and pencil. Method to make pattern: (See Diagram.) Spread sheet of paper on table. From the lower right hand corner of the paper measure up the right side twenty inches. At that point make a letter A. With a ruler measure in five inches from A and make the letter B. Measure one inch above B and one half inch toward the outside edge and put a letter C. With the ruler draw a line from C to A. This line is the top of the pattern. Back at the lower right hand corner of paper put a letter D. Measure up ten inches from D and mark F. Measure in eight and one half inches from F and mark E. Draw a curved line from C thru E to D. Cut from A to C and down along the curved line toD. Be sure that the letters are inside the lines so that they are still on the pattern. To cut out apron: Spread shirt out on the table and cut out sleeves, being very sure to cut close to the seams so that no material is wasted. Cut off cuffs, and cut sleeves open. This leaves [14] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP two good sized pieces both bigger at the top than at the bottom. Lay top of one by bottom of the other and sew together. This has nothing to do with the apron but makes a nice dusting cloth and prevents waste of material. Cut off collar band. Cut large back and front pieces off the yoke, being careful to cut close to seams so that nothing is wasted. You now have three nice pieces, two fronts and one back. Spread them out smoothly on the table and the real cutting of the aprons begins. Fold the back piece in half down the center. Lay the pattern on this piece, fitting the line A to D along the lengthwise fold. The point D should be at the very bottom of the goods. Pin in place, using three or more pins. Cut out. Unpin pattern. Lay one front piece on the table. Fit the pattern on this piece, making the stripes (if there are any in the goods) lay straight with the line A to D. Cut out after the pattern has been pinned in place. Repeat, cutting another section from the other front piece. You now have three pieces; one, from the back which is twice the size of the pattern and one from each front piece. From the strips of goods remaining cut the belt, which is a strip twenty inches long and two and one half inches wide. [15] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP And cut two strings, each twenty-seven inches long and three inches wide. If shirt is badly worn, these strings may have to be pieced. Fold up pattern and put away. Gather up scraps, and thread machine with number 60 white thread, ready to sew. To make apron: Hem strings making a tiny hem on the two sides and an inch hem on one end. Leave other end un- touched. Take larger apron piece and turn in one quarter inch on all but the top side. Stitch edging on these turned-in sides, fitting the turned-in edge neat and close to the embroidered edge of the trimming. Stitch in two rows 1/16 inch apart. This makes a neat and firm finish. Turn in one quarter inch on all but top side of both small pieces. Stitch edging in place down the side A to D and up the curved side to within six inches of the top. Lay the larger piece out on the table. Slip one smaller piece under the right curved edge of the larger and pin in place, so that they lap five inches at the widest point. Pin in place. Fit the other smaller piece in place on the left side, lapping five inches at the widest place, and pin in place. The apron is now in one piece and the sides A to D of the smaller sections are the outside edge. Stitch the lapped sections in place with double [16] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP stitching. Leave an opening of seven inches on the trimmed edge of the top piece, — this is to make a pocket. With six tiny little gathers (three on each side) set the apron into the belt. Leave the ends of the belt open. Turn in one half inch at each end of the belt. Fold the unhemmed end of one string into three little folds. Slip it into the turned-in belt and stitch in place with three rows of stitching. Repeat with the other string and the apron is fin- ished. **There!" said Mrs. Gerald, as the girls laid down their pencils, "that tells you everything to do. But let me warn you about one point, girk ; nc , er try to go faster than your directions. If you do each step correctly as it comes, you will understand the directions for the next step. But if you try to get ahead of yourself, you'll soon be hopelessly lost." "There is no hand work," suggested Alice, who had been looking over what she had written. "No, that's true," agreed Mrs. Gerald, "unless you call basting hand work. Of [17] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP course you will baste your edging in place before you stitch it and you will baste on the belt. I let you do it all by machine be- cause you both know how to run the ma- chine, and I believe that girls should learn the quickest methods of work right from the beginning. But if you were younger and had not yet learned to use the ma- chine, you could make nice aprons just the same, as it is all very simple hand work." "Who but you would have thought of using up old shirts this way," laughed Mary, as she picked up the shirt she had chosen. "We can not only make this kind of apron," said Mrs. Gerald, "but several other styles as well. I could use the bit of goods that will be left from the back to make a bib if I wanted. Or I could cut the back an inch larger all around and instead of mak- ing the extra pieces as you will do, I could cut a ruffle out of the fronts and sleeves and make a ruffled apron. Oh, there's many a bit can be made, as you'll see some day! "Now, see that the machine is threaded [18] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP and oiled," continued Mrs. Gerald, "and then I'll run along with my own work." The girls collected their supplies and then settled down to work. They helped each other on the pattern, as it was only neces- sary to have one. But each girl cut out her own apron all by herself, as that is half the fun. They had no trouble at all till they came to put the three pieces together; that seemed a puzzle till Alice noticed by the sketch her mother had left that the lap went only part of the way down and that the bottom was pointed like a letter W. After that it was all smooth sailing. By lunch time the strings were hemmed, all the edging stitched on and the three pieces were basted ready to sew together, and by two o'clock the whole thing was finished. And of all the aprons worn at the supper the next Friday evening, those worn by Alice and Mary were the most admired: — "shirt aprons" jumped into fashion in one night! [19] e:.t,:;ai.baiTI-, cnc3lb Alice cuts out her bag and Mary her handkerchief. Lesson 2. RUN THE RIBBON THROUGHTHE CASING LESSON 2. HANDKERCHIEF BAG AND HANDKERCHIEF. After the success with the aprons, Mary and Ahce were very enthusiastic about sew- ing and determined to do more. But school work and music kept them so busy that it was all of two weeks before they had time to take another stitch — everybody knows how such things happen sometimes. On the second Saturday morning after the supper at the church, Mrs. Gerald re- [21] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP marked as they were finishing breakfast, ''There now! Monday is your Cousin Sue's birthday and we haven't planned a thing to give her!" "Mother!" exclaimed Alice in dismay, "how did we forget? You know Mary and I wanted to get something especially nice for her this year!" "I know you did," said Mrs. Gerald con- tritely, "but the days go by so swiftly " "Well," interrupted Mary eagerly, "what if they do? Here's one whole day we have and it's a Saturday, too. Let's make her something, — let's make something we can sew. She'd like that and it would encourage her to learn to sew, too," added Mary, with a wise little shake of her head. For Cousin Sue wasn't, as perhaps you have thought, a "big lady" cousin, — she was a little seven- year-old cousin of whom both the girls were particularly proud and to whom they were very devoted. "That's a good idea," said Mrs. Gerald thoughtfully, "and I have another good idea to put with it. You remember in Sue's last [22] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP letter she spoke of a party, and that her mother explained that instead of a birthday party of her own this year, Sue was going to a big party for some neighbor children that happened to be planned for the Sat- urday after Sue's own birthday — that will be next Saturday. Now of course her mother has her dress and slippers and all that planned, but suppose we give her some real grown-up extras. Suppose you girls make her a handkerchief bag and a dainty handkerchief to carry in it, and I'll give her a pretty new fan hung on a little chain which she can w^ear around her neck." "Goody!" exclaimed Alice happily, ''that's just the thing! And we'll use pink every- thing, because her party things are sure to be pink ; pink ribbons for the bag and a pink fan." It didn't take long to get the morning work out of the way that morning, for two girls who really want to help can do a lot. So it wasn't much after nine when the three of them met in the sewing room, the dishes [23] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP washed, the house set in order and everyone ready for work. "May we write down directions and keep note books and all that, mother?" asked Ahce. "Yes," replied Mrs. Gerald thoughtfully, "I think that is the best plan. Of course, I'm going to be here but I think you do bet- ter work when you depend on yourselves. So as soon as we hunt out materials, you may get your books and take down the direc- tions. I am sure I have materials in the house, as I always aim to keep something on hand for just such a time as this." And sure enough, in the piece bag, the ribbon box and the lace drawer were found just the right materials for the work. Next the note books were produced and these directions were written down: [24] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A HANDKERCHIEF BAG AND HANDKERCHIEF. Materials needed: Piece of linen lawn (or similar material) 14 inches by 7 inches. Piece of handkerchief linen or fine dimity 12 inches by 12 inches. 30 inches of Valenciennes lace insertion (narrow). 1 and ^ yards Valenciennes edging to match. 1 skein fine embroidery thread any color desired. 1 spool number 80 white cotton. 1 and 1/2 yards of ribbon i/> inch wide (color same as embroidery thread). Also bodkin, thimble, scissors and needles. Method for cutting: (See Diagram.) a. Bag. Cut the 1 4 by 7 piece into two squares each exactly seven inches. Lay one on top of the other and fold in half along the long way of the goods. Hold the folded edge to the left and round off the lower right hand corner. Unfold, and the pieces will be rounded off at both lower corners. Baste the two pieces together. [25] •7 IH. 7 IH. Diagram for Handkerchief Bag Patterns. Lesson 2. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP 6. Handkerchief. Pull a thread along one side of the linen and cut by the mark thus made. Measure twelve inches from this edge and pull another thread. Along this mark cut the second side. Repeat till the whole square is cut. It is very important that the threads be pulled before the cutting is done. A handkerchief cut by thread will not only make up better but will always iron better than one cut carelessly. Method for making: a. Bag. With fine even stitches sew the bag together along three sides; that is, leaving the side opposite the curved end open. Keep the stitches Vs inch from the edge (Vg inch = —). Turn the bag thus formed other side out and crease firmly and neatly along the sewed edge. Sew a new seam just wide enough to take in the other seam — just a trifle wider than Vs inch. This double seam is called a French seam and is a common method of sewing because of the neatness and strength of the finished work. Make a narrow hem around the top — turning the hem on the outside, which, you see, is the wrong side of the bag. Turn the bag right side out and crease the seam neatly. [27] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Cut off 27 inches of the lace edging. Pin the middle of the edging to the middle of the bottom of the bag. Pin the ends of the edging to the top of the bag — one end to each side where the seam ends. With fine even stitches sew the lace onto the bag right along the outside of the seam. Hold the lace next to you and gather the lace just enough to use the whole 27 inches. Cut the insertion into two equal parts. Sew one part around the top from the outside. Sew the other part around the top from the inside. Sew the two pieces together at the top. This has made a lace casing for the ribbon strings. On the outside piece of insertion, just above the seam in the goods, snip a quarter inch opening. Whip around the edge so the insertion will not ravel. This is to make an opening for the ribbon strings. Of course the ends of the insertion make a natural opening at the other side. Sew the lace around the top, gathering it just enough to use the whole amount (18 inches). Cut the ribbon in half. With a bodkin run the ribbon thru the casing till it comes out the hole thru which it was put. (That is, run it clear around the top of the bag.) Tie the ends together in a neat bow. Repeat with the other piece of ribbon using the other opening. Hold ribbons at the bow, pull slightly to see that they "draw" properly, — and the bag is finished. [28] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP b. Handkerchief. Make a tiny turn three threads wide all around the linen square. Make a second turn four threads wide. Be sure that the corners lay neatly. Make a tiny knot in a length of colored embroidery thread, slip under the fold near a corner. Whip around the whole handkerchief making the stitches 14 ^^^^ apart and taking in the whole turn-in. Hold the wrong side of the kandkerchief towards you and be sure that the turn-in lays neatly under the stitches. When once around, turn the handkerchief so that the right side is toward you and go around again. This will make the second set of stitches cross the first set exactly on the edge and will make a very neat and attractive finish. After the girls had read thru the di- rections carefully so as to be sure they were understood they divided up the work. Inasmuch as they wanted to be sure and get the gifts done in time, they decided that Alice would make the bag and Mary the handkerchief, — Mary thought at first that perhaps this would make Alice do the most work, but she soon found that a handker- chief, carefully cut and neatly made, takes about as long to make as a bag! But both [29] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP girls took down the entire directions, and that was a good plan, because some day Alice might want to make a handkerchief or Mary a bag. They found that they liked to do fine hand work and tho it went very slowly, the finished result was something to be proud of. When she found that the work was going well and that she was not really needed, Mrs. Gerald decided to go and buy the fan so that the gifts might be packed in one box. By the time she returned, the girls were about thru their work and they were ready for the fun of packing. Fortunately both Alice and Mary had scrubbed their hands well before they started their sewing, so the finished work only needed a pressing to make it ready to send. Each gift was wrapped in white paper and tied with pink ribbon and the box was sent on its journey. And if little seven-year- old Sue had as much fun unpacking it as the two bigger girls had making the gifts and packing them, she had a very pleasant birth- day. [30] .i.-'.2tj.--J-'- !r:=3lt)! Alice shook out her bag for her mother to admire. Lesson 3. PUT TURN ED OVER EDGETHROUGHRING LESSON 8. MAKING A KNITTING BAG. Two or three days after the birthday package was sent off to Cousin Sue, Alice received an invitation to a "knitting" party. "Come at three o'clock and bring your knit- ting," the invitation read, and the day was the following Saturday. Now, of course, Alice and Mary and Mrs. Gerald, too, for that matter, had learned to knit when all the world was knitting. JNIrs. Gerald had accomplished a great deal and the girls, even with all their school work [33] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP and their music, had several army sweaters and pairs of wristlets to their credit. But it just happened that this was the first invita- tion to a real knitting ''party." And a knit- ting party means a knitting bag to carry the work in, — everybody knows that ! "^ou may carry my best sewing bag," suggested ]\Irs. Gerald when Alice spoke to her about her need. "My knitting bag has seen too much service so I won't offer it, but you are welcome to the best one." "Thank you, mother," replied Alice doubtfully, "but you see it has strings, and — well, it's just a regular sewing bag and I can't help wishing I had a knitting bag." "What's the difference?" laughed Mrs. Gerald. "Oh, there's much difference, mother," said Alice seriously. "A sewing bag has strings and draws together, while a knitting bag is more open. Some of the girls were talking about it the other day. We think sewing bags have to be shut tight because the scissors and thimble and spools of thread might easily drop out. But knitting is big [S4] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP and sort of all together so the bag can be more open without any danger of loss." "That's a good answer," replied Mrs. Gerald, much pleased with Alice's thought- ful observ^ations, "a good enough answer to deserve a new bag. How would you like to make one yourself?" "Really, mother?" exclaimed AHce de- lightedly. "I'd love it; and may I make it any way I like?" "Provided only that it's not too expensive a way," answered Mrs. Gerald. "Then I want to make it like the one you made for Aunt Jane last Christmas," said Alice. "You know that was of cretonne and was on hoops. Only I'd like mine yellow instead of rose color, as hers was." "Just the thing," said Mrs. Gerald, "yel- low will look wxU with your brown coat and your green and brown silk. I'm going down to the stores this afternoon, and I'll buy your materials then. Now, if you can come home from school promptly tomorrow afternoon you ought to be able to make the bag before dinner." [85] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP **So quickly?" asked Alice in surprise. "Surely!" replied Mrs. Gerald, "one of the first things a good sewer must learn is always to do a job in the quickest time pos- sible for good work. Never learn to take more time than necessary. An hour and a half at the most is time enough for making that knitting bag and if you take longer than that, there's something wrong somewhere — either with your sewing or my teaching. Now run along to school, dear, and remem- ber to make your plans today for a free hour and a half tomorrow." The next afternoon when Alice, hands all neatly scrubbed and note book in hand, came into the sewing room she found her mate- rials laid out ready for her and her mother waiting to dictate the directions. "Maybe you think it's a waste of time to write out ever>i;hing when I'll likely be working right here beside you," said Mrs. Gerald, "but one never can tell, — the 'phone might call me or the door bell just as we were at an important place. If you have everything down vou can go right along ^[36] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP without me. Then, too, Mary may want to make a bag one of these days, — I got some material for her but don't you tell her, that's a surprise, — and when she does, it will be easy for her to copy your directions. So better take it all down." DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A KNITTING BAG. Materials needed: SO inches of cretonne 27 inches wide. 1 pair 7 inch oval embroidery rings. Method : Cut two strips each 1 and 1/2 inches wide from one end of goods. Crease a single "turn-in" 1/4 inch wide on both sides of each strip. Wrap the rings with these strips (one strip to each ring), being sure that the raw edges are firmly turned in. If put on right, one strip will just cover one ring. If it does not come out right the first time, unwrap very carefully and wrap again so that the ring is entirely covered. Tack the end of each strip with a few firm stitches so that it does not come unwrapped. Fold the big piece of cretonne remaining in half, [37] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP right side in, the raw edges together and the selvage at the ends. Sew each end, beginning at the fold, to within six inches of the raw edge. Use thread that most nearly matches the cretonne and make neat firm stitches. Before cutting thread at the end, take three or four firm "back stitches" so the end is very strong. Turn over 14 ^^^^^ *^" both raw edges. Pick up one wrapped ring. Put turned over edge thru the ring and pin firmly as at A. Do the same at B. Baste in place all the way across between the pinned ends. If the goods seems cumbersome, let it slip a little above A and B while working between these points. The hem thus formed should be loose enough to allow the goods to work along the ring. Sew the hem firmly being careful to see that the hem is wide enough so that the stitches do not catch in the wrapping of the ring. Repeat, sewing the other end of the cretonne onto the other ring. Slip the goods into even gathers between A and B and the bag is finished. Much to Alice's delight she found the bag very easy to make. She was puzzled at only one time and that was when she started to put the goods onto the rings. But a lit- tle thought as to how the bag must lo^k when finished solved that difficulty and after that [38] Diagram showing ring for handle and finished Knitting Bag. Lesson 3. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP all was smooth sailing. To be sure there wasn't much visiting in that sewing room, — beginners can't talk and do good work, too, unless of course there's a lot of plain seam- ing or henmiing to be done; bag making takes head work. In just an hour and fifteen minutes from the time she picked up the work, Alice shook out the finished bag for her mother to see and approve. "Fine!" exclaimed Mrs. Gerald proudly, "and you've beat the time record I set for you. Now you can go to the party and knit all you like. And, moreover, it wouldn't surprise me to hear that Mary wanted a bag too, party or no party." And Mary, who happened into the sewing room just in time to see the pretty bag and hear her mother's words, added, "She cer- tainly does!" [40] ■^^ French seams. Lesson 4. A ROLLED HE/v\ AT THE NECK LESSON 4, DOLL UNDERWEAR. The letters that arrived from Cousin Sue and from her mother were so loud in the praises of the handkerchief bag and the dainty 'kerchief and of the fine work on each, that Alice and Mary felt proud and happy and inspired to do more work. "I knew our box of gifts looked pretty," said Alice happily, "but I didn't realize how very pleased Sue would be when she found we had made her something all by ourselves. [43] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Why don't we make her something more, mother?" *'I guess there isn't any reason," laughed Mrs. Gerald, as she folded up the letters and laid them in her desk, "unless the fact that no Christmas or birthday is coming is a reason!" "Well, that's not a good reason at all," replied Alice, "surely we can find some ex- cuse for sewing, — Valentine's Day is passed and Washington's birthday and — and — Oh! I know! there's Easter left! We can give her something for Easter." "All right," laughed Mrs. Gerald, "if you have to have a day to celebrate, Easter will do as well as any. What is it you want to make for her?" Before Alice had had time to make an answer, Mary said, "Let's dress a doll for her — a nice big doll and make pretty, grown- up clothes and a hat and a wrap and every- thing." "Goody!" exclaimed Alice, and quick as a flash she began making plans. "Mother, you may get the doll for your share " [44] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP "Thank you kindly for the permission!" said Mrs. Gerald, and she made her daughter an elaborate bow. "And Mary and I," continued Alice, "will make all the clothes. There'll be enough to do for two, I know. And think how much sewing we'll learn while we're making the things," added Alice persuasively. "A bargain's a bargain," said Mrs. Ger- ald, "and I'll get the doll on one condition — you must promise to cut your own patterns for the clothes, by directions I'll give you, of course, and all the sewing on the clothes must be the neatest, best hand work vou can do." "Agreed!" said Alice and Mary together, and Mary added, "I wish we could begin this very afternoon. I always hate to wait after a nice plan is made." "You don't need to wait," said Mrs. Ger- ald, "for I happen to know that Mrs. Dar- roU bought a doll for her little Doris only last week. I am sure I can get another just that same size. Suppose you slip over and ask to borrow that doll for this afternoon's [45] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP work, and by tomorrow I can have the on^ you will give to Cousin Sue right here ready for you." The girls slipped into their sweaters and dashed across the street on their errand. Mrs. Darroll, like the good neighbor she always was, seemed perfectly willing to loan the new doll and was much interested in the plans for making clothes. "I was just wondering how in the world I was going to get that doll dressed for Doris in time for her birthday, because I have so little time when she is not around. And now you've given me an idea," she said. "If you can dress a doll for your Uttle cousin, why can't I hire you to dress one for me ? You wouldn't mind earning a little extra money, would you?" she added, with a twinkle of fun in her eye. "Would we?" exclaimed Alice. "But I think we ought to wait till we show you how we can dress the first doll," said careful Mary, "and then, if you like our work, we can do something for you." "That's good business," said Mrs. Darroll [46] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP approvingly. "I have an idea you can just suit me. So tell your mother to hurry on with her lessons." "The very first thing to do," said Mrs. Gerald when the girls settled down for work a few minutes later, "is to get your measure- ments. This is what is called an 'eighteen inch' doll, you see, because it is eighteen inches from the top of the head to the feet. We are going to make this doll a 'lady doll,' so the clothes must come just above the shoe tops. That means that the bottom of the skirt must be about half way between the knee and the ankle, and the pantie legs must be just a trifle shorter than that. If you will watch me, I will measure the doll to show you how it is done. But don't take my measurements, take down where I measure. Then when I have finished you may each take the measure and, one after the other, make your own measurements and write them down in your own books. But before we begin the measuring, let's set down the materials needed, — you see I have them all hunted up ready for you." [47] im^,>«>f.B.^ff.!^ SKIRT PANTIES -CENTER Diagram of Patterns for Doll Underwear. Lesson 4. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DOLL UNDERWEAR. Materials needed: 2/3 yard of white cotton material (long cloth, lawn or similar material). 1 and Yo yard of narrow lace edging. Number 00 white cotton thread, needles, scissors, tape line, etc., Measurements for pattern: Waist measure — 1 1 inches. Leg length — 7 inches. ' Neck — 3 and y^y inches. Around leg at knee (loose) — 8 and % indues. Around arm at shoulder (loose) — 3 and 1'. indies. Shoulder — 1 and Vo inches. Length from shoulder to half way between knee and ankle — 12 inches. Cutting pattern : (See Diagram.) a. Skirt. Take a piece of smooth, clean paper 12 inches by and 1/2 inches. Mark the center of one of the narrow sides. This mark is the middle of the top. Mark one inch to each side of this center mark. [49] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Cut a slight curve between these points. This is the neck. 2 inches from each side of the neck make a mark. This is the end of the shoulder. (You will notice that this shoulder is 2 inches while the doll's shoulder measured only 1 and % inches. The extra lA inch is for hems.) From the end of each shoulder (three inches from the center) draw a line to the lower corner. Cut along this line, and you will have a pattern like the little sketch. Put a cross at each shoulder to remind you that the shoulder lays on a crosswise fold when the material is cut. h. Panties. (See Diagram.) Take a piece of smooth paper 9 inches by 7 inches. Mark the center of one 9 inch side. This is the middle of the bottom. Mark 2 and Y^ inches above this center mark. Call this A. Mark % inch to each side of the lower center mark. These are B and C. Draw a U shaped line from B thru A to C. Cut along this line. On the opposite 9 inch side mark 1 inch from each edge. Draw a line from this new mark to the lower out- side corner on each side. Cut along this line. This takes out some of the fulness that would be too cum- bersome around the waist of the finished garipent. [SO] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Directions for cutting material: a. Skirt. Fold the goods in half crosswise so that the raw edges are together. Lay the pattern near the selvage and with the shoulder edge (where the crosses were put) exactly on the crosswise fold. Pin firmly and then cut out. b. Panties. With the goods still doubled fit the pattern near the selvage corner and with the lower edges exactly on the crosswise edges. Pin firmly in place and cut. Notice that two parts are thus cut at once. Directions for making: a. Skirt. Starting two inches below the top of shoulder, sew the sides in a neat, very narrow French seam. Make a 1/2 i^^ch hem around the bottom. Cut a 5 inch opening down the center back and hem. Make a tiny rolled hem around the neck. Hem the arm holes, making an 1/8 ^"ch hem. Sew lace around the bottom, gathering it just enough to use 24- inches. b. Panties. Sew the U shaped curve with a tiny French seam. Sew one side with a French seam. [51] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Sew the other side to three inches from the top. Hem the two legs. Divide the lace remaining and sew one piece onto each leg making it full enough to use the whole amount. Of the goods unused, cut a straight strip 12 and V2 inches long and 1 and l/o inches wide. This is the belt. Gather the panties just enough to make them fit into the twelve inches of the belt. (The extra half inch makes a y^ inch turn at each end.) Sew the panties onto the belt, — the belt on the wrong side. Turn the belt over and hem down on the right side. Sew snappers on the belt of the panties. Sew snappers on the skirt at the neck. Mary decided that instead of each girl helping on each garment it would be more fun and also much quicker if each girl made one whole garment. So she asked to make the panties and suggested that Alice do the skirt. Alice was pleased with the suggestion, and they set to work at once. It took a good deal of thinking to get the pattern just right, and Mrs. Gerald had to remind them that the old adage *'the more haste the less speed" applied to sewing as [52] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP well as to other things, and that they must do only one step at a time. That they mustn't even try to read the second step till the first was done, and the third till the sec- ond was finished. Her advice proved good, and by going slowly they did their work accurately and there was nothing to undo. When the garments were finished they put them on the doll and were more than pleased with the way they fitted and looked, "If the dress and coat turn out as well as these have," said Alice proudly, "Mrs. Dar- roll will think we're regular dressmakers." [58] Oux'ir iciib c— : r 1 n t tn#^ Sew the waist and skirt together. Lesson 5. BIND THE NECK WITH I^ROWN RIBBON LESSON 5, MAKING A DOLL DRESS. "I'm sure Mary wouldn't care," said Alice ; "she'd want either of us to work when- ever there was time, and you know we had agreed that each of us would do a garment alone just as we did the underwear." Alice had come home from school unex- pectedly early, a couple of days after the doll underwear was made, and she was anx- ious to improve her time by getting some more work done on those doll clothes. Not [55] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP only that the doll for Sue might be dressed by Easter time, but also that she might show Mrs. Darroil her skill at sewing and get the order for more work. "I think you are right," agreed Mrs. Ger- ald, as she folded up her own work and pre- pared to give her attention to Alice. "You can take the directions for the dress and she can copy them. Then tomorrow when she comes home early and you are late, — I be- lieve your music lesson comes tomorrow, — she can make the wrap, and you'll be thru. Now what kind of a dress do you want the doll to have, dear?" Alice thought a minute. "Of course I'd like silk if you have any, mother, because silk will look so like a big lady dressed up for Easter." "Then silk it shall be," replied Mrs. Ger- ald. "I think there are plenty of pieces left from your green and brown silk. To buy new silk would be pretty expensive, as we would have to get a third of a yard, but I think we are smart enough to manage with the scraps. I think you had better make it [56] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP a waist and skirt dress, — only of course you will sew them together so it will really be a one piece dress, — and for that you need only make a pattern for the waist. If your note book is ready you may take this down. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A DOLL DRESS. Making the pattern for the waist: (See Diagram.) Take a piece of smooth paper 13 and % inches by 5 inches. The 5 inch length is the up and down of the waist. Mark the center of the top A. Mark 1 inch to each side of A and cut out a curve between the two marks. This makes the hollow for the neck. Down one side make a mark 3 and ^^ inches from the top. Mark this D. Straight in from D measure 3 inches and mark B. 2 and ^2 inches from the lower corner mark C. Draw a line from D to B and then to C. Cut along this line. Fold the pattern in half and draw the shape of the line DBC on the other side. Cut along this line and unfold the paper. Cutting the dress: Cut a piece 9 inches by 24 inches. The stripes run the 9 inch way of the goods. This is for the skirt. [57] 7 la'A IN. A 2 2 i3 UJj^ , VV-3iN-->' ; V/AIST OF DRESS .24 IN. OD BUCKLE BELT 2 IN PCXC^ET CUT FROn AN OLD LEATHER GLOVE Diagram of Patterns for Doll Dress. Lesson 5. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Lay the waist pattern with shoulder on a crosswise fold of the goods. Be sure that the stripes lay ex- actly even. Pin the pattern firmly in place. Cut out, being very careful to cut slowly and evenly. Making the dress: Sew the skirt together in a French seam, leaving a 2 inch opening which should be hemmed for the placket. Make a 1 inch hem around the bottom of the skirt. Gather the top with small, even stitches. Cut open the back of the waist clear to the bot- tom. Make a small hem (1/4 inch) on each side. Sew up the underarm seams. Bind the neck and sleeves with brown ribbon % inch wide. This makes a neat finish that is also a trimming, for it looks like cording. Gather the bottom of the waist till it measures 12 inches. Sew the waist and skirt together with the seam on the wrong side. With brown seam binding or a bit of ribbon cover the raw edge thus made. This not only makes a neat looking dress, both right and wrong sides, but makes it much stronger. Cut a bias sash 2 and I/2 inches wide and 24 inches long. This can be pieced if necessary. Make a tiny hem on both sides. Tack the middle of the sash to the middle of the [59] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP front at the waist. Draw gently around to the back ; tack with firm, neat stitches one inch from the back. If there is not enough goods to make such a sash, a leather belt — cut from a worn kid glove — would be very nice. In this case leather pockets 2 inches by 2 inches might be added to the dress just below the belt. Put three black snappers on the back of the waist and one at the belt. Alice felt very important when she started making a real dress — especially a silk one! She cut out the goods very carefully and made no mistake, which was lucky, as there was just barely enough material for what she would need. Mrs. Gerald had her notice particualrly the shape and proportion of the waist pat- tern. "Vou find, Alice," she said, "that a pat- tern of that shape is the pattern you will use most of all because it's by far the best shape for a beginner to manage. If you get along with this dress as well as yon have with your other sewing, I'll be tempted to let you make something for yourself. And in that case you'll be sure to make a pat- [60] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP tern for yourself of just this very peasant- sleeve style." In making the waist Alice was particular to put a few extra stitches just at the under- arm turn, for there was where most of the "pull" would come when the dress was put on the doll or taken off. And when she put the brown ribbon on the sleeves and neck she was careful to turn in the edges exactly so that no frayed ends spoiled the neatness of her work. A careful matching up of odd pieces showed that a silk belt would be a pretty much pieced affair. Alice didn't mind that a bit, as she was really hoping for the leather belt her mother had spoken of. Fortunately Mrs. Gerald had an old pair of brown gloves just the right shade, and from the wrists of those the belt and pockets were cut. Of course with the leather there were no tied ends as there would have been with the sash. Instead, Alice cut a piece of pasteboard one inch square; from the inside of this square she cut a square of Yi inch. This made the shape of a buckle. Alice then pasted leather [61] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP over the pasteboard and turned in neat edges making a very good leather buckle which she sewed over the lap of the leather belt at the back. The leather pockets she cut with a slight point at the bottom and she bound the tops with ribbon to match the sleeves. Then, when the dress was finally finished, came the exciting job of "trying on." But so carefully had her measurements been taken, and so accurately had the sew- ing all been done, that the dress slipped over the doll's head and snapped into place as tho it were an old friend. "There!" exclaimed Alice proudly, as she smoothed the gathers into place just to her liking, "who says I'm not a dressmaker now?" "Not I!" answered Mrs. Gerald, admir- ing the work, "I'm expecting to see your sign out most any day!" [62] :Q.bne.Tl-, C::ic=lt3oT-r-,t All the clothes were made just right. Lesson 6. SEW UP DART IN the: cape LESSON 6. MAKING A DOLL'S CAPE AND HAT. When Mary returned and saw the hand- some doll dress Alice had made, she "Oh-ed" and "Ah-ed" and exclaimed quite enough to suit even the proudest sister, and declared that that particular brown and green silk dress was the very prettiest she had ever seen. And then she added, "But I wanted to make something pretty, too! Underwear is all very well— I suppose the dress wouldu t [65] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP look very nice without it, — but I did want to make something pretty for that doll." "And you shall," said Mrs. Gerald promptly, "Alice and I talked about that very thing. You needn't think we're going to let a nice doll like that go all the way to Cousin Sue's town without any wraps! We're counting on your making a hat and a coat of some sort." "Goody!" exclaimed Mary happily. "To- morrow I can come home early and get to work. And j^ou and I can work together, mother, like you and Alice did today, be- cause she has to take her music lesson." Mary put away her wraps promptly the next afternoon, made herself clean and tidy after the day's work at school, hunted up her note book and pencil and returned to the sewing room to find her mother puzzling over a pile of pieces. "If I'm not mistaken, Mary," said Mrs. Gerald smilingly, "this lady's coat is going to be a cape. The sleeves of a real coat are very complicated for a beginner, and any- way I think a cape would be much easier for [66] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP little Sue to manage. And then I have just the right material for a cape." And she spread out some gray material for Mary to see. "Why, mother!" exclaimed Mary, "that's " "Yes, of course," replied Mrs. Gerald, "that's from father's bath robe. And better goods for a doll's cape would be hard to find. This gray and black design is pretty; the material is warm and soft, too, and you will find it very pleasant to work with. We'll make the hat green, which will go nicely with the dress and will contrast well with the cape." She pulled out her supply of yarn scraps, selected a small ball of green and then said, "IVow for directions. It's pretty hard to tell you the amount of material you will use when we're only taking scraps. If you were buying new, I would suggest that you take your pattern to the store and try it on va- rious remnants till the most economical was found. We're lucky to have a piece bag to save us that bother." [67] CAPE L61N. SHAPE ON WHICH TO WEAVE THE HAT Diagram of Patterns for Doll Hat and Cape. Lesson 6. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A DOLL'S CAPE AND HAT, Making the pattern for the cape : (See Diagram.) Take a smooth piece of paper 16 inches square. From the lower right hand corner measure up 5 inches and mark that point B. Make a letter A in the lower left hand corner. Draw a slightly curved line (downward curve) from B to A. Cut along this line. This is the bottom of the cape. On the left hand side of the paper measure up from A 14 inches and mark that point E. That point E is the back of the neck of the cape. Put the left hand end of your ruler at E and swing the ruler slightly upward till eight inches comes just to the edge of the paper. Mark that point C. Draw a line from C, which is the front of the neck, to B. Cut along this line which is the front of the cape. The line EA is the same height as the line CB. See diagrams. Half way between points E and C make the mark D. Make little marks 1 and 1/4 inches either side of D. Measure 2 and ^A inches straight toward the bottom of the cape from D and mark that point F. Draw a V with the point F as the point of the letter and the two points on either side of D as the ends. [69] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Cut out the V. This makes the dart that fits to the shoulder. Cutting the cape: Fold the goods in half, lengthwise, and lay the pattern with the line from A to E on the lengthwise fold. Pin carefully in place. Cut out, using particular care to have the edges even and free from any jagged cuts. Making the cape: Sew up the dart and overcast or bind the seam open. Turn in 1/3 inch on all raw edges. Face the edges with seam binding that nearest matches the color of the goods and hem the binding in place. This is done because the goods is too heavy and cumbersome to hem in the usual fashion. Put two sets of snappers near the neck in the front or, if preferred, make little "frogs" of black braid and button with black buttons. Making the hat: (See Diagram.) Take a piece of very stiff artist's cardboard 8 inches square. Trim off corners till it is a perfect circle. Cut 31 notches around the circumference, making each % inch deep and equally spaced. Hold the end of the yarn in the center of the [70] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP cardboard. This is done by holding the fingers under the board and catching the yarn under the thumb which is placed just in the middle of the top. Run the yarn out over one point which we can ^^Run the yarn back, across the center to a point directly opposite point 1 which we can call 16 Then run the yarn back across the center and catch it over point 2. . ^ ,« Then back thru the center and over pomt 17. And so on, back and forth, till every point has a loop of yarn around it. , , r . ^i. When all points have been thus looped, fasten the yarn by taking three buttonhole stitches at the center; thus catching all overlapping yarns together. Thread a bodkin with a long piece of yarn and, beginning at the center, weave in and out, round and round and round. If that length of yarn is used up, take another and starting back a few threads, contmue the weaving till no more yarn will go on the crossed warp. , , 1 ix With the thumb and forefinger slip the loops oil from the points of the cardboard, one point after another till the hat is free from the board. With both thumbs held towards the center and the fingers at the center on the under side, shape the hat till its crown is just right for tlie doll's head. The hat will be found very pliable and very easily shaped in any desired way. i ^. j As a finish a band of ribbon or a cord may be tied around the base of the crown and a tiny feather thrust thru. [71] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Two colors of yarn may be used if desired making a striped effect that gives a nice variety. Mary thought that cutting the pattern was going to be an awful job — the long directions and the lettering and all sounded very complicated to her. But much to her surprise she found that by following her mother's advice and doing just one thing at a time, the whole pattern was cut out before she knew it. And of course after the pat- tern was made, cutting out the cape and making it were just plain fun, — that's all. She had never put on binding before and she found she liked working with the soft, silky, ribbon-like band and that it made her work look very neat and tailored. Instead of making "frogs" of black braid as Mrs. Gerald had first suggested, Mary decided to make them of green braid and button them onto jet buttons. Then, in her millinery piece bag, JNIrs. Gerald found a small jet buckle which JSIary sewed onto the little hat, thus giving it a very smart, tailored air. [72] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP By the time the coat and hat were finished Alice had come home from her lesson, and the girls had the fmi of dressing the doll, of finding that all the clothes were made just right and, finally, of taking her over to show Mrs. Darroll their work. She was so pleased with the clothes the girls had made that she immediately engaged an outfit for Doris's birthday doll. Then, after Mr. Gerald, too, had been shown the work his girls had done, the doll was packed up and started on its journey to Cousin Sue. [73] i f n - ^"-; ^1 : 1 Everything in pink and white to match. Lesson 7. TIE ENDS IN DOUBLE KNOT LESSON 7. MAKING DOLL BEDDING. After an earnest conference together Alice and Mary decided that it was best for Alice to have charge of Mrs. Darroll's order for doll clothes and to do most of the work herself. Doris's birthday was only a few days away, and Alice, by a lucky hap- penstance, had more time than usual for a week because of the absence of one of her teachers, so she could surely devote some time every day to the work. [75] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP But on Friday Mary came home at ten oY'lock and announced that school was closed for the day on account of a teachers' meet- ing, and that she was ready to help. "What is there to do?" asked Alice in dismay. "I know you hate filling in at just any sort of work and I have all the interest- ing part, the cutting and all that, done!" Before Mary had time to answer, the tele- phone rang and Mrs. Darroll's voice asked to speak to Mary. "I thought I saw you go into the house just a minute ago," she began by way of preface, "and I was wondering if you're having a vacation, and if so, whether you'd be willing to help me with something else." "Surely," replied Mary, and immediatelj^ she began having a nice important feeling. "Mr. Darroll has been so interested in this doll outfit," continued IMrs. Darroll, "and he has wanted to do something for Doris's birthday that would fit in wath the doll things. You know he is pretty good at car- pentering, but you don't know — you could never guess — what a fine little doll bed he [76] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP has made for her! And he insists that yon are to make the bedding outfit for it. Do you think you can, Mary?" Now, as of course it's easy to guess, Mary and Mr. Darroll were good friends, and when Mrs. Gerald was appealed to she had no trouble understanding that Mr. Darroll had made that bed quite as much for her own Mary as for his little girl. But, how- ever that might be, the bed was made and Mary should do her part. So she nodded her head to Mary's question and the little girl hurried back to the 'phone. "Splendid!" exclaimed Mrs. Darrol, much pleased. "Then you bring your tape line and note book over here and get the meas- ures, and I'm sure your mother can tell you just what to get for the covers and how to make them." Mary lost no time getting her sewing note book and hurrying across the street, you may be sure. She found that the bed Mr. Darroll had made was 24 inches long and 12 inches wide, — just right for a doll the size Doris was to have. So she wrote down these [77] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP figures in her book, admired the fine work Mr. DarroU had done in making the bed, and then skipped off home to begin her own part. "I think this job is going to be a fine one for you," said Mrs. Gerald approvingly, as she sat down to give Mary the necessary directions, "because you'll learn so many things about the making of bedding, — things that are just as true about grown folks' bed- ding as about dolls' bedding. For instance, you'll notice when I give you the figures that I add exactly half the width of the bed to make side turn-ins on the sheet. That is, when the bed is twelve inches wide I add six inches to the twelve inches and make the finished sheet eighteen inches wide. Of course all ready made sheets do not have as wide a turn-in as that perhaps, but all good homemade ones do and the better of the ready made ones are of that proportion. Then you will notice that the same amount, six inches, plus three inches for hems, is added to the length so that the sheet can be turned in comfortably all around." [78] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DOLL BEDDING. Sheets : Take 3S inches of musliii 36 inches wide. Cut or tear into two parts, lengthwise. This leaves two pieces each 18 inches by 33 inches. Make a 14 i^^h hem on each eighteen inch side. Turn in 1/4 i^^^ at top and bottom of each sheet. Turn a 1 inch hem at one end and hem neatly. Turn a 2 inch hem at the other end and hem neatly. The two inch hem is at the top of the sheet. Make the other sheet exactly the same way. Pillows and slips: (See Diagram.) Take two pieces of heavy muslin each 8 and Yz inches by 5 and % inches. Double one piece together and sew it almost shut. Turn other side out. Fill with tiny clippings of paper instead of feathers and sew shut with small firm stitches. Repeat to make the second pillow. Take two pieces of muslin each 9 inches by 9 inches. Fold one piece in half and sew together along one long and one short side. Hem the remaining side making a 1 and % inch hem. Sew narrow lace on at the edge of the hem and turn right side out. [79] S'/x ]Tsf 2 00 S'/x IN DOTIED LINE S }-{ OWS W H E R E TO SE^v\^ONTHE WRONG SLDB FOLD THIS Plbl-.OW 01N 2 [""' N'^ 1 •I- 1 WRONG SIDE FOLD 9 IM THE PlLLOV\/3UP THE COr^FORT FOLD > A f- y» A A >> ^ A • / • • ^ • • 2 > > A y* A ^ ^ >> C)0 / y • y • • , > A > >> A ^ ^ ^ lii ^' / • • • / • • > u W ,> ^ y> /• ^ > /^ ^ > ^ y r • ^ • / F > > ?■ > ^ A >^ > ^ al .1 y / • / / • • • ?-7 IN BLIND SB"^A/ Diagram of Patterns for Doll Bedding. Lesson 7. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Repeat with other piece to make the second pillow slip. Blanket. Piece of white or colored wool 27 inches by 18 inches. (If real wool cannot be used, outing flannel makes a nice substitute.) Buttonhole all around with a dainty color. Comfort. (See Diagram.) Piece of silkaline (or other soft cotton goods) 36 inches by 27 inches. Two pieces of cotton batting each 27 inches by 18 inches. Lay the cotton batting on half the silkaline. Fold the other half over and lay neatly in place. Turn in a ^ inch hem all around. Baste the top and bottom together. Blind stitch all around. This means sew with small stitches that show just as little as possible. If de- sired, featherstitching in a dainty color makes an even better finish. Beginning to measure from the lower left hand corner, put a pin every three inches over the surface of the comfort. Take double, mercerized thread in a big needle and stitch down and up where the first pin is placed. Cut the ends leaving them long enough to tie. Tie ends in a double knot and trim off if too long. Repeat at each pin. This is called "knotting a comfort," and is done to keep the cotton on the inside from slipping. [81] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Spread. Heavy piece of cotton goods^ mercerized or figured if possible^ 20 inches by 27 inches. Make a very small rolled hem on all sides. On to this hem sew coarse, narrow lace, holding it full while rounding the corners so that it lies evenly and is flat. Press in place with warm iron. S and 1/3 yards of narrow torchon lace will make both the pillow slips and the spread. "You will notice," continued Mrs. Gerald as Mary closed her book, "that the spread is finished all around so that it can hang down over the other, tucked-in covers. "Suppose," asked Mary, who always liked to be sure she understood, "suppose the bed I want to outfit was some other size, — what then?" "That's easy," laughed Mrs. Gerald, "just compare your bed with the size of this one and keep the proportions the same. If you want to fit out a smaller bed, make smaller sizes for the bedding — if your bed is two inches narrower, make the sheets and every- thing just that much narrower." Mary took the list of sizes over to Mrs. [82] hEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Darroll and was given material for the whole outfit, — everything in pink and white to match Doris's room and just exactly the sort of materials a little girl like Mary would love working on. Such a busy lot of folks as there were around the Gerald House that day! And when, just before five, both girls put up their work to go for a play out of doors, all the bedding and the doll clothes were finished ready for the final pressing that was to make them absolutely perfect. [83] r &.2EiBstH cr.olfcJCJVi' Pin pockets in place. Lesson 8. SEW HOOKS AND EYES AT BACK OF BELT LESSON 8. MAKING A SKIRT TO WEAR WITH MIDDIES. One evening two or three weeks after the doll outfits were finished and sent away, Alice and Mary were talking over the work they had done. *'I liked sewing on the doll things," said Mary thoughtfully, ^'because little clothes such as doll things can be finished up so easily." "That's one of my reasons for liking doll [85] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP things, too," agreed Alice. "I hate having sewing around and around and around. There's Ruth Dixon, — her mother's teach- ing her to sew, and all in the world she does is hem napkins and make towels." "Yes," laughed Mrs. Gerald, who loved to poke fun at her daughters, "and I'll wager that she can hem much better than you can, as a result, my dear." "Maybe so," rephed Alice gaily, "but I know she hates sewing. And I love it be- cause I learn to make things. I told Ruth the other day about our doll outfits and she looked as tho she'd like to be doing the same things we did. And moreover, she said that before we knew it we'd be making dresses for ourselves!" "To be sure," replied Mrs. Gerald, in a matter-of-fact voice, "why not?" "But mother," began Alice in surprise, "dresses are hard to do!" "How do you know they are?" said Mrs. Gerald, "you've never made one." "Caught !" shouted Mary gaily. And then she added seriouslv, "But really, mother, [86] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP could we make some clothes for ourselves? I was wishing the other day that I had some new things, — odds and ends you might call them. You have so much to do all the time and things cost so much to buy ready made. It would be great fun to make some spring things for ourselves." "No reason in the world why you shouldn't," said her mother; "I'm much pleased to know that you have enough am- bition to make you want to help yourself. What had you thought of that you would like to make?" "Well," answered Mary thoughtfully, "there's a skirt to wear with middies, — you know some days it's awfully warm for my serge skirt now and yet I don't like to begin wearing my light dresses yet. Then I really need a new kimono and " "Don't bother to think up more," ex- claimed Mrs. Gerald, "two articles are enough to start with, — especially as both are things you can make right away. In fact, neither will take a bit more real skill than the doll things you have done. The [87] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP only difference is that clothes for yourself are bigger and perhaps a little harder to manage in the actual holding and sewing. But that is only a question of getting used to them, — and the way to get used to some- thing new is to begin." "And may I begin, too, mother?" asked Alice. "You know I need those very same things." dr "Surely, dear," replied Mrs. Gerald, "you may work together. I will give all direc- tions for one skirt and one kimono or what- ever it may be, but you can always know I have two girls and their needs in my head. "Now let me see," she continued thought- fully, "I think we'll begin on a skirt to wear with middies. That's not so big, — less actual material, I mean, — as a kimono and conse- quently is better for a starter. Suppose we take our measurements now% and then to- morrow, when I am down at the stores, I'll get your material. I recall seeing some very pretty dark, plaid ginghams the last time I was in. How would those suit you ? Ging- ham wears well and in this case will be es- [88] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP pecially good as the dark plaids will stay clean and tidy and, tho very light weight, will look not unlike a woolen skirt." ''That will please me, I know," said Alice happily, "and, mother, if you can, will you get mine a green and blue plaid,— that's my favciite plaid." "And mine's gray and black," said Mary quickly. "I think a gray and black plaid with maybe a thread of green or red is the very prettiest plaid I know." "I have it down," replied Mrs. Gerald, who had promptly whipped out her note book and jotted down the girls' directions. "Now let's get the amount of goods figured out and then I've an idea you'll discover it's bed time. Bring me a couple of tape hues, Alice, and I'll show you how to take a skirt measure. "Measure around the waist hne — so — 28^ inches. Mary, will you please put that down for us? Now notice. I tie the tape line around your waist just where the belt of the skirt will be. Now kneel down and [89] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP while kneeling, hold yourself straight and tall." "Never you inind, Mary," said Alice, as she did as she was told, "you'll have to do this in a minute and then I'll laugh at you!" "Now," continued Mrs. Gerald, "I meas- ure from the tied tape line to the floor, — that's all, dear; you may get up now, — it's 24 inches. Then add three inches for extra length and three inches for the hem and yo have the length the goods should be cut. You might be interested to know that little folks, — by that I mean girls of five or six or seven, — have their skirts made just to the floor when they kneel; but girls as old as you are add the three inches to make a graceful length. "So now we can figure up our material. Using gingham which is only 27 inches wide, we will need three lengths of the goods for the skirt, which, at 30 inches a length, will mean just 2>4 yards. For the belt we must allow 30 inches and we can use it cross- wise of the goods because it is merely an under belt that does not show. Otherwise [90] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP we would have to allow enough to cut it lengthwise of the goods. That means tliree inches across and then a small three inch piece to be sewed on for the extra length. Then pockets, — do you want pockets ? They won't show with your long smock middies but with the short ones they will be very convenient." The girls decided for pockets, plain ones, so Mrs. Gerald continued, "Then we must have three yards of gingham for each skirt." "But a pocket doesn't take fifteen inches, mother," objected Alice, as she hastily figured out the amount her mother was to get. "No, that's true," replied Mrs. Gerald, "but gingham always shrinks and we have to allow for that. Now while we're on the subject, suppose you take down all the direc- tions. Then tomorrow you can shrink the goods, and it will be ready for work when you can sew on Saturday.'* [91] 7 IN. POCKET UPPER PART O^ BACTK. DOTTED LINES SHOW HEPT AT PLA.CKET FINISHED SKIRT Diagram of detail for Skirt. Lesson 8, SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A GINGHAM SKIRT FOR MIDDIES. Preparing the goods for work : Unfold the new goods till it lays out the full width and is in loose crosswise folds. Immerse in warm salted water in a bathtub (or other vessel which is large enough for the goods to lie smooth and flat). Run the hands back and forth over the goods to be sure that every inch is soaked with the water. Keep in the water for ten minutes. Without touching the goods, draw off the water and fill the tub with clear, cold water. Leave for ten minutes. Without unfolding the goods, hold it firmly in two hands and draw it up the side of the tub so the water can drain off. Draw off water. When the water has drained pretty well away, pull the goods over the edge of the tub, being very careful to see that every fold lays flat and smooth, and leave till dry. This shrinks the gingham, sets the color but leaves it new-looking. If the goods is carelessly handled, it will have to be pressed and will thus lose that pretty new look which is desirable to keep. Cutting the skirt: See that the end of the goods is cut evenly. Measure 30 inches down the right selvage. [93] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Measure SO inches down the left selvage and fold over till a sharp crease is made. Unfold and cut along this crease. Lay this piece of goods along the remaining goods near the end just cut and fit the plaid together. If plain goods were being cut of course one could sim- ply cut off the next 30 inches. But plaid goods must be matched. If the plaid is a small figure;, there will be very little waste. If the plaid is large there may be quite a piece wasted. This cannot be helped as a skirt made without matching the plaids would be a disappointment. After the second skirt length is cut, match the third length and cut in the same way. Cut a S inch strip all the way across for the belt. The belt measure for Alice was 28 and 1/^ inches, which means the belt must be 30 inches — % inch be- ing for the turn-in at each end and 1 inch for the lap. Therefore a piece 3 and % inches must be cut and sewed onto the 27 inch length — the extra I/2 i^^^ ^^ for the seam used in putting the piece on. Mary's measure was 26 inches so she did not have to add a piece, — the selvage was at each end so no turn-in was needed and the extra inch gave her the lap in the back. To cut the pockets, cut a paper pattern in a V shape, 7 inches along the straight top and 7 inches from the center of the top to the tip of the point. See Diagram. Making the skirt: Sew the three breadths together, leaving one seam open ten inches from the top. This is for the placket. [94] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Make an inch wide hem down the right side of the placket. The right side means the side that will be on the right side of the back of the skirt when it is worn. If the placket was cut thru the goods, as sometimes happens, instead of being on the selvage, as it is, both sides of the placket would have to be hemmed. Lap the inch hem over the other side of the placket and sew firmly in place. Piece the belt if necessary. Find the center of the breadth directly opposite the placket. This is the front of the skirt. Pin the front of the skirt to the middle of the belt. Pin the right hand back to the right hand end of belt. Pin the left hand back to the left hand end of belt. Adjust the fullness between in inch- wide plaits, being sure they all are backward-turning. That is, those plaits on the right side turn back and those on the left turn back. This gives the effect of a box plait in the front. It is impossible to give more particular directions as belts vary in length; the plaits must be adjusted and if necessary readjusted till all the fullness is used up and the plaits are evenly spaced. Do not try to baste as yet; pin till every plait is just right. Baste and then sew — using the machine if possible. Turn the belt in ^4 inch. Fold it over onto the right side and stitch it in place. It will be noticed that the belt must turn onto the right side of the skirt. Sew two hooks and eyes at the back of the belt. Try the skirt on and be sure of the length. There [95] I SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP should be a 3 inch hem. While the skirt is still on pin the pockets in place. Measure down from the belt and over from the center plaid to be sure they are even. Pin each pocket with at least three pins to hold firmly. Baste pockets and hem. Try on again to be sure all is right. Stitch pockets and hem and the skirt is finished. [96] Pin carefully in place, using plenty of pins. Lesson 9. TO BUTTON HOLE THE NECK LESSON 9. MAKING A NIGHT GOWN. Much to the girls' amazement, they found the making of the skirt fully as easy as the doll things they had done. In fact, Alice insisted that it was easier because it was all "straight" work. Mary was not so sure about that because she had had some trouble getting her plaits just to suit her when she put the skirt to the belt, but she had kept at the job, pinning and repinning till the finished result was exactly right and she was [99] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP just as enthusiastic about more work as Alice could possibly be. "Let's see," said Mrs. Gerald, when ap- pealed to as to what should be begun next. *'I think you spoke of a kimono, and you can make a pretty one, I know. But I be- lieve if I were you I'd do something else first. A kimono is big and long and has sleeves, — all very different from anything you have yet done, you see. And if I'm not mistaken both you girls need some pretty nighties. Why not make at least one night gown apiece and get used to handhng a large garment? Then you can make a kimono as soon as you please." Both Alice and Mary thought that a reasonable suggestion and as thej^ like all other girls, always liked pretty lingerie, they began making plans as to how the gowns should be made. "I'm not going to have regular pink and blue stuff on mine," said Alice, first thing; "mine's going to be green, pale green. I'm going to have smocking, too, — that is, if you [100] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP think I can, mother, and do that in green to match the rosettes." "Pink suits me even if it is more common," announced Mary, "only my pink is going to be a soft shade of rose. That color makes such pretty rosettes." "I think you'll find just the colors you'll like in my drawer of embroidery threads," suggested Mrs. Gerald, "and, as you'll only need a few threads of each color, that will save you buying a whole skein just for a little. You see, that's just the reason I always save every thread when I'm thru a job of embroidering, — you never can tell how glad you'll be to get even three or four threads of a certain color. "Now let's see about the goods," she con- tinued. "Of course I always have some long cloth on hand, as I buy a bolt or two every January. Mary, stand up here and let's measure." She laid the tape line on Mary's shoulder with the end an inch from the collar line in just the middle of the shoulder, — measuring the middle from the back and front. [101 J SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP "Tell me, Alice," she said, "where it touches the floor." "At 48 inches," announced Alice. "Then the gown must be cut just twice that length," said Mrs. Gerald, "for you want it about an inch off the floor and the inch hem will just do that. Now, Alice, your turn." Alice's measure was 51 inches, so the girls figured that Mary's gown would take 2% yards of long cloth and Alice's would need just 6 inches more than that, or 2 yards and 30 inches. Mrs. Gerald had plenty of goods, she found, and as it was already shrunk the girls could go right to work. She was care- ful to explain to them that all cotton goods must be shrunk before making, otherwise there is sure to be disappointment in the fit and length. "In fact, girls," she added, "I always try to shrink cotton material as soon as I get it, then it's ready for use. "Now, before I give you directions for making the pattern," said Mrs. Gerald, "I want you to get out the patterns that you [ 102] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER^S HELP on the left side of the front, embroider your initials in white or rose color." Mary liked that plan very much and especially was she pleased to have hers dif- ferent in some way from her sister's, — it made it seem more truly hers. And so they set happily to work. When the gowns were all finished a couple of days later, Mrs. Gerald gave each girl a bolt of ribbon 1/4 inch wide, — Alice's pale green and Mary's rose, — and taught them how to make their rosettes. They un- wrapped the ribbon and every three inches along the whole length they tied a loose knot. The three inches had to be between each finished knot. The whole length of ribbon was then cut into two parts. The needle threaded to match the ribbon was then thrust thru the ribbon just half way between each knot. This really strung the ribbon on the thread, you see, just like little children string popcorn. When all of one half the bolt of ribbon was on the thread, the knots were turned down and several firm stitches taken. This gathered the folds of ribbon [107 1 SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP into a little bunch and made a rosette. The second half was made into a rosette in ex- actly the same way. One rosette was used on the shoulder and one at the left of the front. So well did the gowns turn out that Mrs. Gerald promised she would give them each material for a kimono the very next time they wanted to sew. [1081 Ctit out this triangle. Lesson 10. CUT TWO FACING PIECES FOUR INCHES WIDE LESSON 10. MAKING A KIMONO, Mrs. Gerald felt sure that it wouldn't be many days before the girls would be sudden- ly asking for their kimonos, — ^their notions for sewing usually came suddenly, she had observed! — so the very next time she went down town she purchased the material they would need for their work. Alice had men- tioned wanting blue crepe, a soft, Copen- hagen blue, and Mary had many times spo- ken of wanting a rose color negligee, so Mrs. [Ill] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Gerald had no doubt as to just what was the right thing to get. It was lucky she was so before-handed be- cause the day after the material was deliv- ered Mary announced that there was to be an extra teachers' meeting the next after- noon and that school would close at noon. "And if I only had that goods you prom- ised me for my kimono/' she added regret- fully, "I could make it up tomorrow.'* Mrs. Gerald slipped off into her room and when she returned a minute later, handed Mary a package with the question, "How would this do?" Mary's eager fingers made short work of the wrapping, and there before her lay yards of soft crepe, just the very color she had longed for! "I thought there'd be a vacation or some- thing one of these days," said Mrs. Gerald. "I just seemed to feel it coming, so I pre- pared for it. I'm glad you like my selec- tion." "Don't I get any?" asked Alice. "I haven't any vacation and that's bad enough, [112] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP but if I didn't get any crepe for my kimono, that would be worse'/' "Indeed it would," replied Mrs. Gerald gaily, "and if you like you may console your- self by opening the package that's on my sewing table. But when you'll make it up is more than I see just now." Of course Alice was delighted with the goods she found, just as Mrs. Gerald had known she would be, and she promised then and there to make no engagement for Sat- urday, so that she, too, could make her kimo- no and have the fun of wearing it. The next afternoon as soon as the lunch work was out of the way, Mrs. Gerald and Mary, note book in hand of course, ad- journed to the sewing room for kimono- making. And these are the directions Mary set down in her book, — directions which Alice was to copy that very evening so as to lose no time from Saturday's working hours. [113 1 3 IN aiN lYD BELT li 1 $1 q W « .._ ... 1 Di?igram of Patterns for Kimona, Lesson 10. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A KIMONO. Material needed: 4 yards of crepe or other soft material 36 inches wide. Thread to match, number 50 cotton. Method for cutting: (See Diagram.) Measure from middle of shoulder to length desired (almost to floor). Add three inches for hem. This made 49 and 1/2 inches for Mary. Double this length, which makes 99 inches or 2 and % yds. Cut off 2 and % yards from the piece. Lay re- mainder aside. Lay this 2 and % yards smoothly on the table, — doubling it crosswise. That is, fold it in half, cross- wise. Put a pin at the middle of the crosswise fold. Put a pin at the middle of the bottom, at the raw edge. Lay a tape line between these two pins and cut along the line. This opens one whole half of the goods down the middle. This opening is for the front. On each side of the pin which is in the crosswise fold, measure 3 inches out from the center and put pins. [115] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Cut along the crosswise fold this six inches. This is for the back of the neck. Measure along the cut center 2/3 yard from the bottom, and put pin (A). Hold left hand at that point. With the right hand pick up the point of goods at the center of the cross- wise fold B and lay it back cornerwise as far as the three inch (C) cut will let it go. This lays back a long triangle, 3 inches at the smallest side and % yard on the other side. Cut out this triangle. Repeat on other side. These two triangles cut out, shape the neck and front opening. From the remaining goods laid aside cut the two sleeve pieces, each 12 inches wide and 44 inches long. Cut two facing pieces each 4 inches wide and the whole length of the piece which will be about 1 yard and 14. Cut the belt 4 inches wide and one yard long. Method for making: Sew the two facing pieces together. Put the seam thus made at the neck (middle) the right side of the facing next to the wrong side of the kimono. Sew together as far as facing will go down the front. Crease facing over and sew onto right side. Hem the front of the kimono left below the facing. Sew under arm seams beginning at the bottom and sewing up one yard onlv. [116] SEWIxNG WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Slip the kimono on. If side seam "dips," trim off about two inches and round off to nothing in the front and back. Hem three inches around the bottom. Take sleeve piece. Sew the two 12 inch ends to- gether. Hem one side with tiny hem. Pin center of sleeve (directly opposite seam D) to conter of the opening left in the under arm seam D. This center is really the shoulder of the kimono. Sew front and back from this pin for 10 inches. Hem the rest of the sleeve. It will be seen that sleeve is not entirely sewn to the main part of the kimono. This makes the sleeve hang loosely and gives the real Japanese touch. Repeat sewing on other sleeve. Make belt. Turn in raw edges. Baste together down the whole length and stitch. A Japanese kimono belt has square ends but of course the ends may be turned in and pointed if it is desired. Tack the middle of the belt to the middle of the back of the kimono 8 inches below the neck. Try on kimono. Lap belt around and mark where it crosses in front. Sew a pair of snappers where the belt crosses and the kimono is finished. At first it was pretty hard for Mary to understand just how the long straight pieces went together, so Mrs. Gerald took the note book and right beside the directions drew a [117] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP rough sketch to show some idea of how the finished kimono would look. That made it easy as could be. Mary cut out all the pieces, being very careful to do only one thing at a time and to be sure she had read the directions correctly before she took up the scissors to cut. Then, when everything was cut out, she laid the materials on the big table and made them into the shape of the kimono in the sketch, — the sleeves doubled as they would be when sewed on and the facing laid along the edge where it was to be sewed. By so doing, she could get an idea just how the kimono would look when finished and could be sure she wasted no time or material by making mistakes. After the goods was cut out and planned, the actual making took only a little time, and when Alice came home from school she met Mary proudly parading up and down in front of the long glass and wearing — her finished kimono! [118] "Yes I made it all myself." Lesson 11. SLIP END OrSTRING INTO OPEN ENDOr BELT LESSON 11. MAKING A COOK'S CAP AND APRON. Anyone could have guessed by the way Alice rushed in the front door, tossed her books and sweater on the hall table and hurried thru the house in search of her mother, that something out of common was up. And anyone who guessed that that unusual something — whatever it was — pleased Alice greatly, would have guessed exactly right. [m] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP "Mother!'' shouted Alice eagerly, when she came upon her mother in the sewing room, "what do you s'pose? Our cooking class is to have an exhibition luncheon and I've been made chairman of the whole thing, and we're to plan the luncheon and buy the food and cook it and serve it and everything, and a committee of teachers are to be our guests and pass on the perfection of the luncheon, — and I'm chairman, — and — oh, yes! and I have to have a cook's cap and apron, and, please, may we make one right away?" And there she stopped, not because everything had been said, but be- cause she had run out of breath. Mrs. Gerald was hearty in her congratu- lations ; any honor to one of her girls pleased her more than an honor to herself, and she was proudly sure that Alice could do the chairmanship work to which she had been assigned. "Of course you shall have a cook's cap and apron," she said, "a brand new one, too, and we'll make it just as soon as pos- [ 1S2] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP sible. By the way, when is the luncheon, dear?" "Next Wednesday," answered Alice. "You see, every day the rest of this week we're to practice making menus and study market prices and all that, and then we have two lessons on setting the table. That will give me a chance to see who's best at each job, so when I appoint my sub-committees I can get the right girl in the right place." "You have the idea," laughed Mrs. Ger- ald, "that's the secret of success, — get the right girl in the right place. Inasmuch as you have that much time, I believe you'd better not try to make your cap and apron before Saturday. That will give me time to buy your material and to work out a pat- tern for you. For I haven't made an apron of that kind in a long time and I want to be sure yours is exactly right." It was a good thing that Alice didn't count on doing any sewing after school during that week, for she was more than busy visiting- markets, making out committees and plan- nAlN PART OF APRON 31 IN «o STRAPS FOR SHOULDERS '^ 2 2 IN. & IN 51N SIN 25 IN FINISHED APRON Diagram of Patterns for Cook*s Cap and Apron. Les- son 11. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP niiig for the big day that was to come. But she saved Saturday morning for the sewing and just as soon as the breakfast work was done, she and her mother went to the sewing room ready for work. These are the directions which Mrs. Ger- ald had worked out ready for Ahce to take down in her book: DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A COOK'S CAP AND APRON. Material needed : 2 yards of cambric or nainsook one yard wide. Number 60 white cotton thread. 6 inches of white cotton elastic 14 i'^ch wide. Method of cutting: a. Apron. (See Diagram.) See that one end of the material is perfectly straight. To be sure of this it may be necessary to pull a thread and trim off unevenness by that. Measure from the even end 25 inches. Snip the selvage at this point. Hold the cloth at each side of the snipped place firmly and with a quick firm motion tear off the 25 inch piece. This is the main part of the apron. Along one selvage of the remaining piece measure [125] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP 31 inches and tear in exactly eight inches. It is best to measure in the eight inches; mark with a lead pencil and tear very slowly till the mark is reached. From the end of the goods measure in eight inches and snip. Tear down from this point till the first pencil mark is reached. This gives you a piece of the goods 8 inches by 31 inches. * Tear this eight inch piece exactly in half length- wise. This gives you two strips 4 inches by 3\ inches ; these are the strings that go over the shoulder. In just the same manner, tear a piece 7 inches by 27 inches. Tear this strip exactly in half and you have two strips each 3 and % inches by 27 inches. These are the strings that tie in the back, at the belt. Next tear a strip 22 inches long and 4 inches wide. This is the belt. From the remaining piece (using the little scraps as far as possible so that the biggest section may be left for the cap) cut one square 8 inches by 8 inches and two squares 5 inches by 5 inches. The 8 inch square is the bib and the 5 inch squares are the pockets. b. Cap, (See Diagram.) Measure 16 inches along the crosswise edge. Measure 15 along the lengthwise edge. Tear or cut out this square. (We call it a square fst convenience tho i^ '«/*« an inch of being a per- fect square.) [1S6) SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Fold in half lengthwise. Round off one set of corners till the whole piece, when unfolded looks like what would be cut out of a letter U. That is, two corners are rounded and two are left square. Cut a straight strip 16 inches long and 6 inches wide. This is the flap of the cap. Method of making: a. Apron. Baste a three inch hem in the main part of the apron. Stitch the hem. Gather the top of the apron till the whole width is gathered into 18 inches. Put the apron onto the belt, first putting the belt on the wrong side then turning it over onto the right. Leave the ends of the belt open. Turn a one inch hem at end of string and stitch or hem in place. Make a narrow hem down each long side. Repeat with the other string. Fold the raw edge of the string into 3 tiny folds and slip into place at the opened end of the belt. Stitch firmly with at least three rows of stitching. Repeat, putting the second string at the opposite end of the belt. Hem the pockets 1 inch. Crease a ^ inch turn-in on three sides of the pocket. [127] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Try the apron on and pin the pockets where de- sired. They should be just where the hand con- veniently /alls. Stitch the pockets in place, being very careful to fasten the thread firmly at the top; otherwise the pockets will easily rip off. Hem the bib 2 inches along a crosswise side: this is the top. Gather the lower edge. Make a I/4 inch turn-in along both long edges and across one short edge of each string — shoulder string is now meant. Baste together across the end and for 25 inches down the long side. This makes a string 1 and % inches wide. Set the bib into the 6 inches remaining open and baste firmly in place. Sew the second shoulder string the same way mak- ing the bib connect the two in front. Stitch down the folded side of the string as well as down the turned-in side. This stitching gives a neat, tailored look and also makes the apron iron much better than as if the stitching were along only one side. Open the belt by cutting along the top for 4 inches each way from the center. Turn in the edge thus cut 1/4 inch. Set the bib and shoulder strings — stitched together as they now are, — into this opening. Baste firmly and then stitch and the apron is fin- ished. [128] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP b. Cap, Hem the straight edge of the cap piece with a % inch hem. Gather the U-shaped edge till it measures 16 inches. This will make the piece cup up in cap shape. Set the flap onto this gathered edge, stitching it into place with a narrow, French seam. Hem the flap on three sides. If the long side of the flap was cut on the selvage, it will be necessary to hem only the ends. Run a 6 inch strip of l^ inch wide white elastic in the hem of the U-shaped piece and sew it firmly at each end. This gathers the cap back and holds it on the head. Turn the flap half way back and crease firmly. Alice was glad she had spent many hours learning to run the machine well, for, al- tho of course she could have made a very nice apron by hand, a cook's apron has much more style to it when stitched. She decided to baste everything before she stitched it because even tho she was a pretty good stitcher, it takes longer to rip out a mistake than to baste in the beginning, and she had no time to waste. Thanks to her care in cutting and basting, [129] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP she progressed rapidly with her work and did not have to rip out and puzzle over one single thing. The whole apron just went together as easily as could be imagined. And on the day of the luncheon, when the apron was all smartly starched and ironed, she was proud to say in answer to the many questions, "Yes, thank you, I'm so glad you like my apron, because I made it myself and I'll be glad to show you howT' [1301 e.iV-1 c:o'b«»^»^e_ dips under the arms trim off." i ^^J i ii m ni/fi _. .r. LAYPATTERNSFOR COLLAR CUFFAND POCKET LESSON 12. MAKING A 'SLIP-ON" HOUSE DRESS. Mary sat in the big window seat and turned over the pages of her sewing note book. "Learning to sew is like climbing a lad- der," she said thoughtfully, "you think you can't possibly step to the top round but you find that if you take the first step and then after that the second step and then the third and then the fourth, it all goes very easily, [ 133] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP and the first thing you know you're at the top where you thought you couldn't go. I think that's very wonderful." "It is, dear," answered Mrs. Gerald; ''that's doubly true. It's true of each thing you make, — one step at a time brings you straight for the finish, — and it's true of the whole thing; begin with an easy garment, then do a harder and a harder and a harder and first thing you know you can make, — well, a dress maybe." "Oh, could we really?" asked Mary eager- ly. "I was wondering only a minute ago what I'd like to make next. I've the two night gowns and the kimono and an apron like Alice made. I'd love to make a dress and I know Alice would, too. Could it be a school dress?" Mrs. Gerald thought a minute. **No," she decided, "I think not. For one thing, it would be better to pick out a pretty design and buy a pattern to make it by. I can make patterns for plain things, but I think it's much better to buy a paper pattern when it comes to making a school dress. Then, too, [134] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP summer is coming and you know how you enjoy wearing a house dress on the warm summer mornings." "Yes," agreed Mary, "they're so comfy and easy to put on." "Just so," said Mrs. Gerald. "So I sug- gest that you make a house dress first and try your hand. Then, if you're success- ful——" "And of course I will be," interrupted Mary. "To be sure," replied Mrs. Gerald, smil- ing, "then you may buy a pattern and make anything you wish. I'll not be afraid to put you in the graduating class!" "Goody!" exclaimed jNIary, laughing gaily, "then let's plan the dress now while there's time before dinner. You can get the goods for me sometime, mother, if you please; and I'll start cutting it out the next time I can take for sewing." Mrs. Gerald was willing, so Mary took her pencil and wrote down the directions at once. [ 135 ] ONE-HALF^ OP COLLAR PIECE 3^1 IN - /POCKET 5 V-^ \N FINISHED DRESS Diagram of Patterns for Slip-on House Dress. Les- 12. SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A SLIP-ON HOUSE DRESS. Material needed: 2 and % yards of white material, such as lawn, 1 yard wide. 1 yard of colored material, such as percale, to trim. Number 60 white thread. The day before cutting, shrink white material, and shrink and set tlie color of the colored material ac- cording to directions given before. The 2 and % yards length should allow ample for shrinkage unless a very long dress is desired. Method of cutting pattern: Get out and read directions for making a night gown pattern. This dress can be cut by that same pattern if folds are laid in the paper to shorten the length. Or, if desired, a new pattern may be cut just the length needed for the dress. To get dress length; kneel and measure from the shoulder to the floor. Add 3 inches to this length and another 3 inches for the hem. a. Cuff. (See Diagram.) Cut a piece of paper 17 inches long and 3 and V2 inches wide. Fold in half, crosswise. Measure 2 inches along the 3 and Vo inch side. Mark A. [137] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Mark B at the center of the folded edge. Draw a line from A to B and cut along this line. Unfold. 6. Pocket. (See Diagram.) Take a piece of paper 8 inches by 10 inches. Fold in half, lengthwise. Draw a line from the center at the end of the fold to the opposite corner. Cut along this line and unfold. This makes a triangle 8 inches on one side and a little over 10 inches on the other two. c. Collar Piece. (See Diagram.) Take a piece of paper 15 inches by 13 inches. Fold in half lengthwise. Along the fold measure down 4 and 1/2 inches and mark A. From the bottom of the fold measure up 3 inches and mark B. Mark the upper right hand corner D. From D measure down G inches and mark C. From C draw a slightly curved line to the corner below B. From C measure in 3 inches and mark E. Draw a slightly curving line (parallel to the line drawn from C to the lower corner) from B to E. Continue this line, rounding the corner, to A. Cut along lines draAvn and unfold. To cut material: Fold the white goods in half, crosswise, and pin [138] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP pattern in place. Notice carefully that shoulder is on the crosswise fold of the goods. Cut out. Cut belt. Measure 5 and 14 inches in from the selvage. Tear down the whole yard length of the goods. On the remaining piece lay patterns for collar, cuff, and pocket, remembering to double the goods under the cuft' and pocket patterns so that :wo are cut Be sure that all have the long way of the pat« tern on the long way of the goods. Cut out. Method of making dress: Fold the white piece in half lengthwise and crease for 12 inches from the neck both front and back. Fold the colored collar piece and crease the center line also. Lay the white piece out on the table flat and lay the collar piece on top of the white at the neck. Fit carefully, being sure that the crease in the colored piece exactly fits into the crease in the white piece. Pin into place. After it is carefully pinned shape the neck of the white goods to fit the neck of the colored collar piece, cutting carefully. Baste around the neck and stitch. Turn the colored goods over onto the other side of the white. Crease a ^4 inch turn-in all jyoond the raw edge of the collar piece. [1391 SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Baste the collar piece down onto the white goods, being very sure that the point is exactly on the center crease in the front and that the middle of the back is on the middle crease in the back. Stitch in place. Sew the straight edge of the cuff to the end of the sleeve on the wrong side. Crease a 1/4 ^^^^ turn-in on the raw edges of the cuff. Turn the cuff up onto the sleeve and baste in place. Stitch along the two long sides. Repeat with the other cuff. Seam the dress together, making the underarm seams with small, French seams. Try on and if the dress proves correct thus far, as it should, take off and turn up the three-inch hem. If it "dips" under the arms, trim oft", and try on again. Stitch the hem. Make a 1 inch hem on the 8 inch side of the pockets. Slip the dress on and mark where pockets should be put. Pin in place, using at least three pins. Baste on and then stitch, being careful as before, to fasten the thread carefully at the tops of the pockets so the pockets do not easily rip. Turn in 1/4 inch all around the belt piece. Fold together, doubling the long way, and baste. If pointed endb are desired, turn in points as the basting is done. Stitch one or two rows all around the belt. [HO] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP Put a snapper at the front where the belt crosses. Tack the belt to the middle of the back of the dress about 12 inches below the neck. Try on and if everything is correct the dress is ready to wear. After much looking at samples which Mrs. Gerald brought home from her next trip to the stores, Mary chose a cross- barred dimity for the dress and a percale, striped in two shades of rose, for the trim- ming. Alice (who, of course, decided to make a house dress, too) chose plain lawn with a trimming of plain yellow percale, a very pretty shade of which ^Irs. Gerald had found. JNIary felt very big and important while making her dress, and indeed, isnt it a big and important job to make your first dress? And when it was all finished, she was proud to display it to her father and get his hearty, *^Well done, little girl!" Alice made her dress only a week or two after Mary made hers, and found it so pretty and dainty and comfortable that she * [Ml] SEWING WITHOUT MOTHER'S HELP decided to have two, the second trimmed in blue. And best of all, the girls so carefully set the color before they made the dresses, that they wore them the whole summer long without a bit of fading to mar the good looks of the trimming. Mrs. Gerald was proud of her graduates, and they celebrated their graduation by buying a real pattern and each making a dress of their very favorite design. "I think our sew^ing course was the best ever, mother," said Alice, as she finished up this second dress, "and I know my allow- ance is going to stretch twice as far, now that I can make some of my own clothes!" [14^] SUGGESTIONS OF RELATIVES AND FRIENDS FOB BIRTHDAY, CHRISTMAS, AND OTHER HOLIDAY GIFTS MAY BE WRITTEN ON THE FOL LOWING PAGES BY THE OWNER OF THIS BOOK HEART-SHAPED FAVORS TO MAKE FOR A ST. VALEN- TINE'S PARTY [ !*•'> ] PATTERNS TO SEW ON PLACE CARDS FOR WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY [ IW 1 HOW TO DRESS AND CROWN A MAY QUEEN [ 1 1^ ] PRETTY RIBBON DECORATIONS FOR A SUMMER FROCK [US] BIRTHDAY GIFTS FROM BITS OF SILK [ 149 ] A BRAIDED BUG OR A SILK QUILT FROM OLD NECKTIES [150] TIXY CHRISTMAS GIFTS TO ENCLOSE IX ENVELOPES r 1 >i 1 SfSlSSSi^l ln„T:°'^ONGBBSS ° 014 145 750