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J.ABRAHAM 
 
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 ANIMAL BAIT 
 
 The best Bait to Increase your catch on the 
 market. Made from a secret Formula, discov- 
 ered after years of experimenting, by one of the 
 greatest trappers in North America. 
 
 A different bait is used for each kind of ani- 
 mal, so be sure to specify which kind is wanted 
 when ordering. 
 
 PRICE, $1.00 PER BOTTLE 
 SIX BOTTLES FOR $5.00 
 
 Our Guarantee 
 
 If, after giving this bait a thorough trial, it is 
 not found to be everything we claim for it, money 
 paid will be cheerfully refunded. We know 
 what this bait will do, and have no hesitancy in 
 making this proposition. 
 
I. ABRAHAM 
 
 Trapper's Guide 
 
 This Booklet contains all of the latest 
 methods for trapping every kind of 
 fur bearing animal caught on the 
 North American Continent, and was 
 written by Wrappers of Noted Sfyll 
 in their particular line. 
 
 
 
 Furnished Free of Charge on application 
 
 by 
 
 L ABRAHAM 
 
 213-215 N. Main St., 
 ST. LOUIS, U. S. A. 
 
 MONEY MAKERS FOR FUR SHIPPERS 
 
 LATEST EDITION. 
 
This Guide 
 
 was written by H. J. Stevens, of Greenwood, Ind., a 
 famous writer on Fur subjects and a successful trapper 
 for many years, with the following well known trappers 
 as collaborators: 
 
 G. B. Bumngton Herndon, Pa. 
 
 Elmer Hixon Murray, Ky. 
 
 Fred C. Stamer Carstadt, N. J. 
 
 Martin Swansen Argyle, Minn. 
 
 J. A. Newton Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 
 Noah King Calico Rock, Ark. 
 
 Fred McCain Leon, Kan. 
 
 CO. Flint Belhi, N. Y. 
 
 Omer Stephens Steubenville, Ky. 
 
 Fred L. West and J. M. Taylor, Santa Anna, Tex. 
 
 W. J. Stump Custer, Mich. 
 
 Homer Hanes Hetherton, Mich. 
 
 We received a great deal more copy which space would 
 not permit us to use and for which we wish to extend our 
 heartiest thanks to senders, and to assure them that we 
 stand ready to serve them in any way we can to show 
 our appreciation of their efforts in this matter. 
 '■;. j Edited by 
 
 F. H. EYNATTEN, 
 
 Of Our Publicity Staff. 
 
 — 2 — 
 
 , ©CI.A358341 
 
The Famous House 
 
 OF 
 
 I. ABRAHAM 
 
 IN 
 
 St. Louis, U. S. A. 
 
 Has furnished the most accurate and reliable Fur 
 Reports to shippers of Furs for the past 40 years. If you 
 want to keep posted on what is going on in the Fur Market 
 you cannot afford to be without our Price Lists. Trappers 
 all over this country and Canada have shown their appre- 
 ciation of I. Abraham's honest treatment and progressive 
 methods of handling their furs by a long continued pat- 
 ronage and by the many flattering testimonials which are 
 published elsewhere in this book. 
 
 I . ABRAHAM 
 
 Best Outlet In The World For Furs 
 
 — 3 — 
 
Introductory 
 
 In sending you this little Booklet with our compli- 
 ments, we hope you will read it carefully from cover to 
 cover and if you do this we are positive that you will 
 learn many things about trapping fur bearing animals 
 which you have never thought of before. The informa- 
 tion contained herein was gathered at a considerable 
 expenditure of time, energy and money and has been 
 pronounced by experts on the various subjects treated, 
 as the most complete and useful book of its kind ever 
 published. I. Abraham who have been the leaders in 
 the Fur Trade in St. Louis, U. S. A., the greatest pri- 
 mary Fur Market in the world for Forty Years, have 
 used their usual thorough methods in getting up this 
 Guide and feel justly proud of the result. 
 
 The greatness of St. Louis as a Fur Market becomes 
 more pronounced every year, until to-day practically all 
 the Furs caught in the United States and Canada eventu- 
 ally find their way here. Manufacturing Furriers can 
 find a large supply of every kind of Furs in St. Louis at 
 all times and consequently go there for their wants. 
 
 I. Abraham have been in the Fur Business almost for 
 half a century and are known wherever Furs are handled 
 as the greatest and most progressive Fur House in the 
 world. We are the only Receiving House in the great 
 St. Louis market that dresses furs for manufacturers 
 in this country and that has a Branch in Leipzig, Ger- 
 many, where furs are dyed and dressed for the European 
 Furriers. Our Leipzig Branch has for many years been 
 noted as the leading Fur House in that famous European 
 market and enjoys the patronage of the greatest manu- 
 facturing concerns of Paris, Vienna and other great 
 fur centers, where the world's fashions in furs are created. 
 
 — 4 — 
 
If space would permit us to go into the many advantages 
 we have over all other Fur Houses, we have no doubt 
 we could convince every shipper of furs that it is im- 
 possible for any other concern in the fur business to 
 successfully compete with us in paying the highest 
 prices for furs. 
 
 Our business has grown to such an enormous extent 
 that we have been compelled to again increase our 
 capacity by purchasing the magnificent five-story 
 building adjoining our present location and which will 
 give us the greatest amount of floor space used exclu- 
 sively for furs. 
 
 We solicit correspondence from every one interested 
 in furs and would thank you to try us with at least one 
 trial shipment, when we will convince you of the truth 
 of every assertion contained in the above statement of 
 facts. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 I . ABRAHAM , 
 
 213-215 N. MAIN STREET, 
 St. Louis, U. S. A. 
 
 The greatest, best and livest Fur house in the world, 
 
Traps 
 
 Three general types of traps are commonly used by 
 trappers, namely, steel traps, deadfalls, and snares. 
 Each of these types of traps has certain advantages 
 which the others do not possess. Most successful trap- 
 pers have found it to be of advantage to make use of all 
 three types, consequently they will be described and 
 their method of use explained. 
 
 Steel Traps. At the present time practically all of 
 the steel traps used are made by the Oneida Community. 
 This great company manufacturers three grades of com- 
 mon steel traps: the Newhouse, the Hawley and Norton, 
 and the Victor. The Newhouse trap is considered the 
 standard trap of the world; mechanically, it is as near 
 perfect as many years of manufacturing will allow, but 
 on account of its cost is not as popular as the Victor. 
 The Hawley and Norton trap is very similar to the 
 Newhouse but is made to sell at a slightly lower cost. 
 The Victor trap has, within recent years, become the 
 most popular trap on the market. It is made much like 
 the Newhouse and the Hawley and Norton, but is much 
 cheaper. 
 
 In thickly settled communities where there is a like- 
 lihood that some traps will be stolen, it is advisable for 
 a trapper to use the Victor trap. It is pretty safe to 
 say that as much fur can be caught with a Victor trap 
 as with a Newhouse trap, and in case the trap is stolen 
 there will, of course, be less loss in the case of the former 
 than in that of the latter. Then, too, the springs of 
 the Newhouse trap are so much stronger than those of 
 the Victor that when animals are caught in the former 
 'there is a greater chance that the bones of the leg will 
 be broken and that the animal will thus escape than 
 when caught in the Victor. Professional trappers of the 
 United States and Canada are coming more and more 
 to use the Victor trap, although it is not as well made 
 and consequently not as durable as the Newhouse and 
 the Hawley and Norton. 
 
 Besides the common steel traps just mentioned there 
 is on the market a form of trap known as the jump trap. 
 
 — 6 — 
 
This trap derives its name from the fact th#t when 
 sprung it jumps from the ground. This is claimed as 
 an advantage as the jaws will grip the leg of an animal 
 at a higher point than in the case of the common trap. 
 The jump trap also is lighter in weight than the com- 
 mon trap and thus is easier to carry over a long trap 
 line. Another advantage of the jump trap is the fact 
 that the spring is within the jaws whereas in the com- 
 mon trap it is at the end where animals must stumble 
 over it in reaching the pan, or trigger. A few jump 
 traps should be included in the outfit of every trapper. 
 
 A form of trap known as the Stop Thief has been widely 
 advertised within late years. This trap is made of 
 spring-steel wire and is designed to catch animals around 
 the neck and choke them to death. It is particularly 
 adapted for setting over entrances to dens and in run- 
 ways. Skunks caught in Stop Thief traps are killed 
 instantly and therefore do not perfume themselves. 
 The chief advantage claimed for this form of trap is 
 that the animal is always killed and consequently has 
 no chance to escape. Some trappers are warm in their 
 praise for the Stop Thief trap while others pronounce it 
 worthless. It is a trap worthy of trial by all trappers. 
 
 Still another form of steel trap on the market is the 
 tree trap. This trap is designed to be fastened to the 
 trunks of trees and to stumps. It is especially desirable 
 for Coon, Opossum, and Squirrels. Tree traps should be 
 baited to be effective. 
 
 The various steel traps on the market are made in a 
 variety of sizes. The size to use for a particular animal 
 will be discussed later. 
 
 Deadfalls — In pioneer days when steel traps were 
 expensive and hard to procure a great deal of fur was 
 taken in deadfalls. Even yet this form of trap is widely 
 used, particularly in the Far North. For certain condi- 
 tions and for certain kinds of animals there has never 
 been a trap devised that is as valuable as the deadfall.* 
 
 So great is the variety of forms of the deadfall in use 
 that it is impossible here to attempt to describe this 
 trap. A number of books have been published on the 
 
subject and the trapper should procure one of these and 
 familiarize himself with the methods for making the 
 deadfall. The A. R. Harding Publishing Company, of 
 Columbus, Ohio, has published a book entitled "Dead- 
 falls and Snares" that explains thoroughly just how to 
 make deadfalls. This book sells at a low price and 
 should be in the hands of every trapper. 
 
 Deadfalls, which are usually built where they are to 
 be set, should be constructed early in the Fall in order 
 that the trap and its surroundings will have a weather- 
 beaten appearance by the time the trapping season 
 opens. Animals are always more or less suspicious of 
 freshly cut wood. If a deadfall is built early, animals 
 that frequent the vicinity will become used to it and 
 consider it merely a part of the landscape. 
 
 Snares — The Indians have always been very skillful 
 in taking animals in snares. Like the deadfall, the 
 snare has been used in a great many different forms. 
 Usually, a sapling is bent down, a cord or wire is fastened 
 to the end, the free end of the cord or wire is made into 
 a noose that is spread on the ground, and the sapling is 
 held down by means of a trigger. Bait is used to induce 
 the animal to stand over the noose. When the bait is 
 nibbled the trigger is sprung, the sapling springs back 
 to its original position, and the snare catches the animal 
 about the neck or body, leaving it suspended in the air. 
 There are a great many variations in the form of trigger 
 used. These variations are explained in the book al- 
 ready mentioned. 
 
 Marking Traps — -Before the trapping season opens a 
 trapper should go over his traps and mark them in some 
 way so that he can easily identify them in case they are 
 stolen. There are many ways in which traps can be 
 •marked. Perhaps the easiest way is to file one or more 
 small notches on the underneath side of each trap, care 
 being taken to make the mark the same on each one. 
 The notches should not, of course, be made in the springs 
 as that would weaken them. 
 
Caring for Traps — In overhauling traps before the 
 trapping season opens, if any are found that^are covered 
 with rust the rust should be removed by me'ans of kero- 
 sene. A small quantity poured over the traps and 
 allowed to stand for a few hours will usually do the 
 work. After the rust is removed the traps should be 
 greased thoroughly with some oil or animal fat that 
 does not contain salt; salt would rust the metal. Lard or 
 tallow or even a heavy machine oil, if rubbed on all of 
 the parts, will form a coating over the metal that will 
 resist rust. 
 
 Many trappers practice boiling their traps in water 
 to which has been added soft-maple bark or walnut 
 hulls. This forms a sort of glaze over the metal and 
 prevents rusting. 
 
 New traps should always be either greased or boiled 
 as just described. Most trappers do not like to use 
 traps which have not lost their original brightness, as it 
 is difficult to conceal them and the brightness of the 
 metal is likely to frighten away animals. If new traps 
 are treated as recommended they will not be likely to 
 rust for several years. 
 
 Looking at Traps — The most successful trappers are 
 those tnat visit their traps frequently. When possible 
 a trapper should go over his trap line each day as early 
 as he can get to them. There are several advantages 
 in doing this. Often there are persons in a neighbor- 
 hood who will watch for a chance to steal fur from some 
 other person's traps. By visiting the traps early the 
 chance of fur being stolen is reduced. Again, it often 
 happens that animals are not caught securely and 
 attempt to gnaw off the imprisioned leg. If, in such 
 cases, the traps are not visited in time the animal will 
 escape. Then, too, it is inhuman to allow animals to 
 remain in traps for a long period. 
 
 In examining traps there is no necessity for approach- 
 ing too near unless the trap contains an animal. It is 
 best simply to approach near enough to see the trap. 
 After a trap is once set it should be molested as little 
 as possible until the trapper desires to remove it to 
 some other location. 
 
 — 9 — 
 
Setting of Traps — When a trap is being set it should be 
 sprang once, or twice to see that it is in working order. 
 Frequently some part of a trap is thrown out of align- 
 ment by the struggles of an animal and the trap will 
 not close readily. It is, of course, worse than useless 
 to set a trap that will not work properly, because if an 
 animal stumbles into it and is not caught the animal is 
 likely to be trap shy ever afterwards. 
 
 When setting traps a trapper should be careful not to 
 leave evidence of his presence in the immediate vicinity 
 of the trap. Some animals are' very shy and readily 
 detect any change in objects with which they are 
 familiar. In making water sets it is a good plan to 
 wear rubber boots or to use a boat and make the set 
 from the water. In making land sets care should be 
 exercised not to disturb the leaves, grass, brush, and 
 other objects around the trap. For some animals such 
 as the skunk these precautions are not necessary but 
 it should be borne in mind that when a trap is set for a 
 skunk it is possible that a mink or a fox may be caught. 
 
 — 10 
 
Trapping Methods 
 
 MINK 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The mink is a small carnivorous animal that is found 
 throughout the United States and the greater part of 
 Canada and Alaska. It has a 
 a long, slender body, a small head, 
 ■I'" short legs, and a bushy tail. The 
 color varies from a light brown to 
 a very dark brown, the darker the 
 color, as a rule, the more valuable 
 the skin. The fur is thick, fine, 
 and glossy. 
 
 There are perhaps more methods 
 used in trapping the mink than in 
 trapping any other fur-bearing ani- 
 mal. The exact methods to use 
 depend largely on the nature and 
 the habits of the mink in a given 
 locality and on the season in which 
 the trapping is done. In localities where mink take 
 bait well it is advisable to make use of bait sets, while 
 in localities where they will not take bait it is necessary 
 to use "blind" sets. For fall trapping many trappers 
 prefer water sets and for winter trapping land sets. 
 
 In trapping mink, as well as other animals, a trapper 
 should study his locality carefully for signs. He should 
 ascertain by means of the tracks in the mud and snow 
 how many mink travel each stream and lake. Mink 
 usually travel a fixed path, hence it is not difficult to 
 find the places they visit regularly in search of food. 
 
 A good bait set for Mink is as follows: Find a hollow 
 log or a hole in a drift or in a stump along the bank of a 
 stream. Place a small piece of bait, such as rabbit, 
 fish, frog, bird, muskrat, or squirrel, within the enclo- 
 sure and set the trap in the entrance, covering it with 
 leaves, rotten wood, or some other material in keeping 
 with the surroundings. The trap may be fastened to a 
 light clog, a balance pole, or, if near the water, to a 
 sliding pole. 
 
 — 11 — 
 
OTHER METHODS FOR MINK 
 
 A good water set for Mink is to find a place along a 
 stream where the bank is steep and the water is shallow. 
 Make a hole in the bank, level with the water, about 4 
 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep. Place bait in the 
 hole and set the trap before the entrance, in water. The 
 trap should be lightly covered with water-soaked leaves 
 and mud, and should be staked full length into the 
 stream so that in case a mink is caught it will drown. 
 
 Where Mink do not take bait readily a good blind set 
 can be made as follows: Find a place along a stream 
 where the bank is steep and the water leads off fairly 
 deep yet there is a narrow ledge along the bank over 
 which the water is shallow. Set the trap on the ledge 
 so that it will be covered with water. Place water- 
 soaked leaves over the trap and stake full length into 
 the stream. 
 
 Along streams where Muskrats make slides a good set 
 for mink is to place a trap at the bottom of a slide so 
 that it will be covered with water. Stake the trap full 
 length into the stream. 
 
 If tile ditches empty into a stream or a lake a good set 
 for Mink may be made by setting traps in the running 
 water at the mouths of the ditches. Mink often frequent 
 such places and all that investigate the ditches will be 
 caught. 
 
 The traps commonly used for Mink are the Nos. 1 
 and V/2. 
 
 MINK 
 
 By Elmer Hixson. 
 
 The Mink being scarce leads some people to believe 
 they are hard to trap. If properly trapped for they are 
 easily caught. It would be impossible to give a method 
 which would be successful throughout the season in 
 both North and South. 
 
 I will give you a Northern method first. In the Fall 
 before the water freezes dig a large pocket in bank just 
 below water level. Put water and some small fish in 
 it sometime before trapping time so Mink will find it 
 
 — 12 — 
 
before trapped for. Set traps where Mink enters water 
 leading to pocket. 
 
 MINK 
 
 By Fred C. Stamer. 
 
 The Mink belongs to the Weasel family and is found 
 in most parts of U. S. and in Canada. The Mink likes 
 to wander along a stream and will explore most of the 
 holes it comes to. The chief foods of the Mink are 
 muskrats, birds, rabbits, fishes, mice, etc. The best 
 traps for Mink are No. 1 Jump, l^ Jump and No. 1 New- 
 house. When setting a trap leave the surroundings as 
 natural a spossible. 
 
 Go along a stream and find a place where two holes 
 are in a bank a distance of 5 feet apart or make two holes 
 about 5 feet apart. In one hole put the carcass of a 
 muskrat and cover it with a flat stone that weighs about 
 2 or 3 pounds. Then set a trap at the entrance of the 
 other hole and cover the trap well with the material 
 found there. Then stake your trap or fasten to a bush 
 drag. The first Mink that comes along will smell the 
 muskrat and will try to get it from under the stone. 
 After working a little while the Mink will get the musk- 
 rat and have a feast. The Mink will then come out of 
 the hole and dodge into the nearest hole it sees to take 
 a rest when snap! it is caught in the trap. In case a 
 stone cannot be gotten then cover the muskrat with 
 dead grass. 
 
 MINK 
 
 By Martin Swanson. 
 
 Select first of all a No. 3^ Newhouse trap or Oneida 
 Jump, and see that traps are clean and free from dirt, 
 rust or any foreign odor of any kind. Mink are mostly 
 found along small lakes, creeks, ponds and springy 
 places, especially in places which the muskrat inhabits. 
 
 When Mink travel around a lake go to the outlet, then 
 lay a hollow log across stream where water leaves lake. 
 Set your trap in this log, cover carefully with rotten 
 
 — 13 — 
 
wood and the Mink that travels around the lake will 
 try to run through the log and will be caught. 
 
 Another good set: Place trap in cavity three sides 
 of which should be surrounded by stones, or bark. Then 
 place bait beyond trap so that trap is between bait and 
 entrance. Bait with muskrat or fish. Dark rainy 
 nights are good to catch Mink. 
 
 MINK 
 
 By Homer Hanes. 
 
 A sure set for Mink is to build a house of old, water 
 soaked limbs. Make it three feet long, 12 inches high 
 and 10 inches wide. Stake a muskrat carcass in the back 
 end, set trap at entrance and then sprinkle well with 
 water. Use five or six drops of Abraham Animal Bait 
 to attract Mink to the house. 
 
 You should always use Abraham's Mink Bait with 
 all of the foregoing tapping methods as you will find that 
 it will greatly increase your catch. Sprinkle a few drops 
 on logs or shrubbery near where trap has been set or 
 even a few drops on the trap itself has been found to 
 give good results. 
 
 N. B. — Always ship your furs to I. Abraham and save 
 yourself many disappointments. 
 
 TESTIMONIALS 
 
 Following are a few of the thousands of testimonials 
 we receive every day from satisfied shippers who have 
 shipped to us: — ■ 
 
 Well Pleased. 
 
 As this will be my last shipment for this season I wish 
 to thank you for your liberal grading and the good 
 prices you paid me. My dealings with you have been 
 very satisfactory and pleasant. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 W. S. Petts, 
 
 Marshfield, Mo. 
 
 — 14 — 
 
Getting Others to Ship to I. Abraham. 
 
 I have been sick and unable to get out, but hope to 
 soon. I will try to get the other trappers to ship to you, 
 but they have been cheated so often by commission 
 houses, that they think all fur houses are crooked. As 
 soon as I am able to make another shipment I will show 
 them the returns and maybe that will convince them. 
 I think your price list is very reliable. I read all of 
 your literature. Will close hoping to favor you with an 
 early shipment. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Lawrence Jencks, 
 
 Bunker Hill, 111. 
 
 Dissatisfied with Other St. Louis Houses. 
 I wish to say that I have been a trapper and fur dealer 
 for 30 years and have up to the present time made you 
 only one shipment and you gave me as good a grade as 
 I ever got. 
 
 I have been skinned out of thousands of dollars by bad 
 grading in other houses in St. Louis. Hoping you will 
 continue your fair treatment, I am, 
 
 Yours for Business, 
 
 J. T. Childers, 
 Tuttle, Okla. 
 
 Good Returns. 
 
 I received my returns yesterday and must say I am 
 well pleased with them. , I have shipped to other fur 
 houses, but must say yours is the best. Furs are scarce 
 around here and there are many buyers, so I have to 
 pay steep prices. I expect to have another bunch before 
 long and I am sure I will ship them to you. Wishing 
 you every success, 
 
 I remain, yours truly, 
 
 Ralph Sheffield, 
 Violo, Wise. 
 
 Change of Address. 
 My new address is Varnelle, Ga., my old address 
 was Blairsville, Ga. 
 I owe you many thanks for the nice way you have 
 
 — 15 — 
 
handled my shipments. I will surely speak a good word 
 for you wherever I can. It is certainly a pleasure to do 
 
 business with you. 
 
 Oscar Winstead, 
 
 Varnelle, Ga. 
 
 COON 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Coon is found in largest numbers in the states 
 bordering on the Gulf of Mexico, although it is widely 
 distributed throughout the greater part of the United 
 States. For many years it has been one of the principal 
 fur-bearing animals. As a rule the Coon makes its den 
 in hollow trees, but in mountainous regions it often dens 
 in holes among the rocks. 
 
 One of the favorite methods of trapping the Coon, 
 especially in the South, is to set a trap in shallow water 
 near the bank of a stream and fasten some glittering 
 object such as a piece of tin to the pan. The curiosity 
 of the Coon is easily aroused and if it sees the shining 
 trap pan in the water it will try to rake it out and thus 
 be caught. It is necessary, of course, to make this set 
 along the line of travel of a Coon; this may be easily 
 determined by looking for tracks and other signs in the 
 mud. This same set may be made on a log that extends 
 across a stream and is slightly under water. 
 
 Another good set is to place a trap at the entrance of 
 a pen of stakes built at the edge of the water where the 
 animals travel. The trap may be set under water or 
 dry, as preferred, and bait should be placed at the back 
 of the pen. 
 
 Often a stump or a rock can be found just at the edge 
 of the water. If a trap is set in the water where the Coon 
 will walk in passing around the object this will consti- 
 tute a good set. Other animals may be taken in this 
 set as well as the Coon. 
 
 If Coons are visiting a corn field look for places where 
 they go through the fence and set a trap in their path. 
 The trap should be fastened to a clog rather than to 
 a stake. 
 
 For Coon the Nos. 13^ and 2 traps are preferred. 
 
 — 16 — 
 
THE RACCOON 
 
 By G. B. Btjffington. 
 
 The Raccoon is a night feeder and not easily caught. 
 
 A No. 13^ or 2 Newhouse trap is the best for coon. Go 
 to a creek where fish inhabit, for the 
 coon is the best of all fishers. Find 
 a hollow log that has fallen across the 
 creek. Place a fish or some honey on 
 top of the log directly in the center. 
 Next chop out two places in the log 
 (one on each side of the bait) for the 
 ^ traps. 
 
 If the coon passes across the log 
 from either side he will get caught. 
 Fasten the trap well, cover with 
 leaves or rotten wood. Make the 
 chain long so if the water is deep he 
 will fall in and drown. Skin coon, 
 open by cutting open on the belly 
 
 from chin to the tail. The tail should also be skinned 
 
 carefully 
 
 Rdccoon 
 
 RACCOON 
 
 By Fred McCain. 
 The way I catch Raccoon is to go along a stream till 
 the runabouts or trails are found which are generally 
 told by the tracks and signs made along the bank of 
 stream. I try to find " where the animal travels the 
 most then I dig out a pocket about 4 inches deep and 
 just large enough to fit the trap. The pocket should 
 be dug at the waters edge, so that the water will cover 
 the trap about 2 inches. Then stake your chain out in 
 the water, as the Raccoon will notice the stake if staked 
 on the bank. Now cover your trap with water-soaked 
 leaves and sprinkle corn around over trap for bait. Tin- 
 foil that is cut in squares to fit over pan of trap is also 
 good to attract Mr. Coon. But you should not use the 
 water-soaked leaves for covering when using tinfoil on 
 pan of trap for bait. With this method I have the 
 most success in catching Raccoon. 
 
 -17— 
 
In connection with above it is always well to use 
 Abraham Coon Bait by sprinkling a few drops near 
 where traps are set. In setting traps in runways where 
 the Coon has made a trail to cornfields conceal your 
 trap near his path, cover with leaves and sprinkle a 
 few drops of Abraham's Coon Bait. A number of traps 
 can be set if there are indications of more than one 
 animal. 
 
 We have the best outlet for Coon among coat makers 
 and other manufacturers of any house in the great St. 
 Louis market and unless you are shipping to us you are 
 not getting the best results. 
 
 TESTIMONIALS 
 
 Read what some more of our shippers have to say 
 about us: — 
 
 Paid Him Over $200.00 More. 
 
 It affords me great pleasure to write and thank you 
 for your kind treatment. You did me over $200.00 worth 
 of good on my shipments this Fall. You have treated 
 me better than any house I ever dealt with both in 
 grade and prices. I hope if I live next season to increase 
 my business with you. 
 
 Respectfully, 
 
 Payn Harrise, 
 Portland, Ark. 
 
 More Than He Expected. 
 
 Returns are all O. K. You paid me four dollars more 
 than I expected. I will ship you more in a few days. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 A. H. Emery, 
 
 Howe, Okla. 
 
 Received Best Grading from Us. 
 I received my check for furs and I am well pleased. 
 I didn't send you a very good bunch of fur, but I received 
 a good price. 
 
 — 18 — 
 
I tried a few other firms, but they all let me down but 
 you. I sent a fine bunch of Muskrats to another St. 
 Louis house, all picked skins, the very best I had, all 
 large and prime and they graded me three kinds, but 
 they will not get any more furs from me or any other 
 trappers in this country, because I will hurt them all 
 I can and tell all the trappers you treated me right and 
 you will get all the furs. My catch last season was 18 
 Mink, 35 Skunk, 150 Muskrat, 4 Red Fox, 2 Raccoon 
 and some Weasels. Next year you will get all my furs. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Raymond Brooks, 
 
 Janesville, Minn. 
 
 Best of All. 
 
 I received the money you sent me and I thank you 
 very much for it. I can promise to always have a good 
 word for I. Abraham, that he is a man of his word and 
 that he will always pay just what he says he will. You 
 are a man that we trappers can trust. I will have another 
 bunch by March first. I am sending you a card with 
 names of some other trappers, they all- have a bunch 
 of furs and I will try and get them to send them to you. 
 Wishing you very much luck, 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Maurice Eckerle, 
 Marysville, Kan. 
 
 Pleased with Price. 
 
 • Received today $1.10 in payment for four rats I sent 
 you. Thank you very much for that check. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 R. Earl Hoffman, 
 
 Oakes, N. Dak. 
 
 Another Pleased One. 
 
 Check received for my furs. Thanks for same. Keep 
 me posted, am well pleased with prices you gave me. 
 
 R. B. Tolar, 
 Charlotte, Tenn. 
 
 — 19 — 
 
ADVICE TO TRAPPERS 
 
 Select your line as early in the Fall as possible, before 
 the snow flies. Pick out the best locations and keep 
 your traps there the entire season if possible. 
 
 Use Abraham Animal Bait in all your sets — it costs 
 v'erjr little and will greatly increase your catch. 
 
 In looking after your traps keep away from them as 
 much as possible when nothing is caught. It is only 
 necessary to go close enough to see that nothing has 
 been caught, and disturb the surroundings as little as 
 possible. 
 
 Use Abraham Trail Scent when you visit your traps — 
 a little rubbed on the soles of your shoes or boots will 
 leave a trail that will bring the animals to your traps. 
 
 Never use large traps to catch small animals, nor 
 small traps to catch large animals. Set traps carefully 
 and use judgment about the sizes. 
 
 Never handle traps with your bare hands. Wear 
 gloves which have been thoroughly rubbed with 
 Abraham Trail Scent on the palms. 
 
 Don't take your dogs with you when tending your 
 traps; they leave a scent and tracks that will scare 
 away your game. 
 
 Write today to I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., for 
 Price Lists, Tags, Invoice Slips and Return Envelopes, 
 free for the asking. 
 
 Dark, cloudy or rainy nights are the best times to 
 catchall fur-bearing animals. I. Abraham is the best 
 House to ship their skins to. 
 
 Keep your head cool, your feet warm, use Abraham's 
 Animal Baits and Trail Scent, ship your furs to I. 
 Abraham and you will be Healthy, Prosperous and 
 Happy. 
 
 — 20 — 
 
SKUNK 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Skunk is a fairly good sized animal that is found 
 throughout the United States and the southern part of 
 
 Canada. Some specimens 
 of the species are al- 
 most a solid black in 
 color and others have 
 a V-shaped white stripe 
 extending from the top of 
 <5kunk the head to about mid- 
 
 way of the back. The 
 less white there is on a pelt the more valuable it is. In 
 some sections of the Mississippi valley a species is found 
 in which the animals are small and have white spots 
 instead of stripes; this animal is known as "civet cat". 
 The skunk is one of the easiest of the fur-bearing 
 animals to trap. It does not possess the cunning of|the 
 fox or the mink and it is seldom necessary even to cover 
 the trap. The best method for trapping this animal is 
 to locate its den and set a trap either just within or 
 without the entrance, depending on the size of the 
 opening. It is not difficult to find skunk dens in locali- 
 ties where the animals are reasonably numerous. The 
 signs to look for are paths in the 
 grass, small piles of droppings, 
 which always contain the remains 
 of insects, and holes in the ground 
 worn smooth by the passing in 
 and out of the animals. The dens 
 usually have numerous black 
 hairs about their entrances and 
 the skunk odor is generally per- 
 ceptible. The trap should be 
 set with the jaws lengthwise of 
 the hole so that the skunk will 
 step between them rather than 
 over them. This statement ap- 
 plies also to den sets for other 
 animals. 
 
 Bait such as birds, chickens, muskrats, etc., that have 
 been dead long enough to be tainted may be used to 
 
 Civet Cat 
 
 — 21 — 
 
good advantage. A piece of the bait should be placed 
 inside of the den so that if any skunks are passing they 
 will be attracted. 
 
 In case no dens can be found and yet skunks are known 
 to frequent the locality, small artificial enclosures can 
 be made from sticks and the bait placed inside of these 
 with the trap at the entrance. Any natural enclosure 
 such as a hollow log, a hole under a stump, or a cavity 
 in a rock pile is a suitable place to set for a skunk. If 
 their trails can be found in the grass a few traps set in 
 these make an effective set. 
 
 The traps usually used for the Skunk are the Nos. 
 1 and \y 2 . 
 
 I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., knows more about 
 how to get you the highest prices for your Skunks than 
 any one else in the fur business. We certainly are the 
 "Skunk King." Try us and see if this isn't true. Most 
 receiving houses fail to handle Skunks to best advantage 
 and their returns will show that they are not on the job. 
 We make every Skunk "look like a picture" before 
 offering it for sale and quite naturally we get you the 
 most money. Nothing can be more beautiful than a 
 glossy Skunk skin when I. Abraham gets through 
 handling it. 
 
 SKUNK 
 
 By J. A. Newton. 
 
 Skunks are the least wary of the traps of any fur- 
 bearer. Certain ones will walk into a trap having no 
 covering of any kind. But as others will avoid a naked 
 trap, the Skunk trapper should make it a rule to conceal 
 every trap lightly that he sets, using dry sand, dry 
 broken grass or leaves. In so doing it often happens 
 that a more cautious animal is caught such as a Mink, 
 Fox or Badger. 
 
 The IK size trap is plenty large enough for Skunks and 
 number one will do. If a larger trap is used than neces- 
 sary for any animal it strikes too high and breaks the 
 leg making escape probable while the only object should 
 be to get the animals foot in the trap and no more. 
 
 In recent years the double jaw trap has been placed 
 on sale and when they can be obtained no other trap 
 
 — 22 — 
 
should be used for Skunks. The reason being that shortly 
 after being caught in an ordinary trap the Skunk pro- 
 ceeds to amputate the imprisoned foot by gnawing it 
 off below the jaws where it is benumbed and has no 
 sense of feeling. Eating the foot off close up to the under 
 side of the jaws leaves only a little skin in the trap to 
 be pulled out and the game is free. He cannot do this 
 when caught in the double jaw which will hold him se- 
 curely until he freezes or starves or dies of pain and 
 worry unless the trapper comes in time to end his 
 suffering. 
 
 No trapper should set traps for animals which he 
 expects to find alive in the trap unless he can visit them 
 frequently and regularly. Neglect of trapped game is 
 extremely cruel. 
 
 Skunks are partial to an old settled country and there 
 is where the largest number are caught. The animal 
 is not a burrow maker but appropriates the old deserted 
 burrows of Woodchuck, Fox and Badger. He is also 
 so lawless and unafraid of human beings and human 
 habitations that he often dens up under barns, houses 
 and other buildings, even those that are inhabited. 
 
 Skunks being such free commoners, their dens are 
 found in woods, fields and hedges. In old deserted 
 burrows of other animals and often they nest under 
 stone heaps and in the banks of dry water courses. 
 
 Any of these places of habitation may be determined 
 by the paths leading to them, by dry grass that has 
 been drawn in for a nest and by deposits of dung near 
 the den which contain the wings and shells of insects 
 that have been devoured for Skunks are the greatest 
 grub and insect eaters of any animal in America. You 
 will often find where he has made many little borings 
 in some cultivated field in a night to secure grubs, 
 beetles and other insects. Such signs as these are quickly 
 noticed by the alert Skunk hunter who knows that the 
 author of such work lives not far off. 
 
 Traps are set in the entrance to holes inhabited or 
 visited by Skunks. The trap should have a bed formed 
 by digging out the earth where it is to be placed and 
 deep enough so that the jaws will lie level with the 
 ground on each side. If it is freezing weather, some dry 
 leaves or grass should line the bed to avoid the trap 
 
 — 23 — 
 
being frozen down. It is covered lightly with broken 
 leaves or grass and the chain should be fastened to a 
 pole 8 or 10 feet long and it is well to leave some of the 
 limbs on. The pole or drag as it is sometimes called, 
 need be no heavier than will suffice to prevent its being 
 dragged so far that it may be hard to find. A drag that 
 will hold a cat will hold Skunk, Fox or Badger. 
 
 The pole will, in many cases, be the means by which 
 the trapper handles his catch and he does not want it 
 to be heavy and cumbersome. 
 
 A bait laid in the hole a foot beyond the trap will 
 often be the means of bringing a Skunk into the trap 
 while if not baited, he would merely look down a hole 
 and not enter it. Muskrat, flesh, rabbit, chicken or 
 green beef bones in the order named I have found to be 
 the best bait. 
 
 There are several ways of dispatching a trapped 
 Skunk. Some of these methods have been followed to 
 prevent the essence being thrown at death. One way 
 is to attach a fine wire running noose to the end of a 
 pole. Approach the game carefully, let the noose settle 
 over the head and clear back to shoulders for the neck 
 is short. Then lift the game off the ground quickly 
 and let your pole rest over a convenient limb or fence 
 which place of hanging has previously been determined 
 upon. If done properly a Skunk will choke and die in 
 a few minutes and throw no scent. 
 
 Another method is drowning. Where water of good 
 depth is close by you may pick up your end of the pole 
 and by moving very slowly and making no quick motions 
 lead your catch to water. Now lift him up easily and set 
 him in the water pushing the pole down until you draw 
 his head under. Hold him under no longer than to give 
 him a good swallow of water. If you do, the essence 
 will be thrown and scent the fjur badly even when emitted 
 under water. But let him up to breathe and duck him 
 again repeating these moves of Sunder and out" until 
 your game becomes full of water and groggy and his 
 movements feeble before it will do to hold him under 
 for good. Let the catch remain under water at least 
 15 minutes after all motion of feet or jaws has stopped. 
 You can then skin him and he will have no more odor 
 than a rabbit. 
 
 — 24 — . 
 
Never try to move a trapped Skunk from the place 
 where caught if held by a hind foot. It makes him 
 exceedingly bad tempered and the least pull on the 
 trap from the trapper will cause a dischare of essence. 
 
 When held by a hind foot, or if the chain is tangled, 
 I shoot them, and shooting is really the most practical 
 way under varying conditions. But there should be 
 method and common sense used in this. I use a 22 cali- 
 bre rifle and shoot them just back of the fore shoulder. 
 Never through the head for it always causes essence to 
 be thrown. A 22 does not hurt the hide materially when 
 it enters the shoulders and often the game dies with 
 no discharge of odor. 
 
 A few of my acquaintance stick their Skunks as you 
 would a pig, using a keen lance fastened to the end of a 
 good length stick. It is claimed by these Skunk hunters 
 that when bled in this manner there is no odor. How- 
 ever, I have not been heroic enough to try sticking and 
 do not recommend it. 
 
 A good many Skunks are merely batted on the head 
 with a club and but little attention is paid to the odor. 
 
 For him who cares I will say if your Skunk is badly 
 scented, souse it in water, if handy, or drag it a ways 
 after which hang it up in the wind for two or three days 
 and most of the scent will evaporate. 
 
 If a badly scented Skunk is to be skinned at once, 
 swab the vent and belly with gasolene and smear your 
 hands with grease. When the hands are washed with 
 hot water and soap most of the scent will go with the 
 grease. 
 
 Very busy trappers do not stop to kill Skunks in some 
 fancy way and neither are they particular about not 
 getting scented. He has no time for delay and he knows 
 that an animal while warm skins so much nicer and 
 quicker than when stiff and cold. And then, too if he 
 hangs a Skunk up to air out some one who is aviricious 
 and lacking in honor may come along and appropriate 
 it for himself. 
 
 When you have caught a Skunk and it has thrown 
 essence you are more likely to catch more there than 
 at first, for the odor of one that has been caught attracts 
 others to the spot. Therefore when I catch one at a 
 
 — 25 — 
 
den that throws scent, when killed, I keep a trap there 
 all the season. 
 
 The foregoing remarks pertain to late autumn trap- 
 ping. In districts where there is snow many Skunks are 
 tracked to their dens. When one has been tracked up 
 and holed, if there is more than one lead to the burrow 
 it should be plugged securely with sticks or stones. The 
 one where the game entered is to be plugged also but 
 only at the mouth after the trap has been set the length 
 of chain within. Then when your Skunk attempts to 
 come out if he should spring the trap and not get fast 
 he will, upon finding the holes all stopped, go back to 
 the nest and curl up. This gives you another chance of 
 trapping him without making a long tramp while you 
 track him up again. 
 
 When severe cold and deep snow occurs and winter 
 becomes well established, Skunks of Northern latitudes 
 do not come out for about two months except on an 
 occasional night in time of a heavy thaw. February is 
 the mating season and early in this month Skunks begin 
 to move regardless of the cold. Depth of snow alone is 
 all that deters them from extensive traveling. Then 
 is when the fur hunter makes a second harvest. Traps 
 set in almost any hole may make a catch for all holes 
 are visited and explored. A great many Skunk hunters 
 do not depend upon traps but track the game up and dig 
 it out often securing a half dozen or more in one nest. 
 
 This method should be stopped as by it all the females 
 are caught and the dens spoiled. When there are no 
 more dens there are no more Skunks for as I observed 
 they do not dig burrows themselves. 
 
 A good collection can be made with traps alone both 
 in Autumn and in late Winter and when trapped, a good 
 many females escape for they do not travel so much 
 nor so far as the males. In running time Skunks are 
 very hungry after their long fast and any sort of fresh 
 meat or green bones placed in a hole below the trap 
 where Skunks are tracking around will be sure to bring 
 success. 
 
 Referring again to the use of traps, I will say that I 
 have trapped 27 Skunks and all were males but three. 
 Again I caught eight and only one was a female. 
 
 Skunks are rapidly becoming thinned out through 
 
 — 26 — 
 
vigourous hunting and if we do not preserve the dens 
 and the females soon there will be none for any of us. 
 
 Night hunting with dogs makes a clean sweep of both 
 sexes of this valuable fur bearer and some Skunks are 
 caught by the use of dogs that live where it wouid be 
 impracticable to trap them and thus would be left to 
 increase. 
 
 The use of dogs at night also spoils any trapping 
 ground for him who has no dogs and depends entirely 
 on traps. This naturally causes the trapper to hold a 
 feeling of resentment for the night hunters with their 
 dogs. 
 
 Skunks are seldom prime before the middle of Novem- 
 ber in the Northern states and even then some will come 
 out bluish when scraped. It would be better if none 
 were taken before December 1st and still later in 
 southern sections. 
 
 The Skunk is a great wanderer. In the course of a 
 night's travel he makes short trips from a given point 
 and back often crossing his own trail several times. 
 Sometimes he will head for a certain den, go within a 
 few yards of it and turn off to one side, make a wide 
 circuit and return to that same hole he had previously 
 been so near, and get into a trap that had been awaiting 
 him. 
 
 SKUNK 
 
 By O. C. Flint. 
 
 The Skunk is rather a hard animal to catch. You 
 must take a lot of pains in setting your trap for him. 
 Find the hole where he lives and take a No. 1 trap and 
 set it right at the entrance of his den. Chip a place for 
 your trap to set in so it will be level with the ground, 
 just cover the trap with a little dirt so as to hide it 
 and be sure to fasten it good and tight so he cannot 
 get it loose, and you will get Mr. Skunk all right in the 
 morning. 
 
 Use Abraham's Skunk Bait when trapping Skunk and 
 you will be greatly pleased with the result. Put a few 
 drops on a stick or stone and place same near your traps. 
 Guaranteed to greatly increase your catch or money 
 refunded. 
 
If you follow the above rules for trapping Skunk and 
 then ship them to I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., we 
 feel perfectly safe in predicting for you the most suc- 
 cessful season you have ever had following the trap 
 lines. Your energy in going out in every kind of weather 
 to catch the wary fur-bearer entitles you to full value 
 for his skin after you have caught him and we guarantee 
 you full market value for your furs if you ship them to 
 I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A. 
 
 TESTIMONIALS 
 
 This Speaks for Itself. 
 I received my money for my furs yesterday and I am 
 certainly more than pleased with the sum you sent me. 
 I did not expect so much. 
 Hoping you success in your business, 
 Very truly, 
 
 Henry Merchenthaler, 
 
 Morton, 111. 
 
 A Regular Shipper. 
 
 I received your check and was well pleased. I am 
 sending you a nice little bunch of furs, do the best you 
 can. I will try and send you a bunch every ten days. 
 
 From 
 
 Thomas Salyers, 
 
 Humphrey, Ky. 
 
 Only to I. Abraham. 
 
 A few days ago I sent you two White Weasels and 
 now I am sending you some more furs which I have 
 caught lately. I don't sell my furs to any other firm 
 but I. Abraham. 
 Hoping to hear from you soon, 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 John Derewenko, 
 
 Kief, N. Dak. 
 
 — 28 — 
 
We Get Them All Next Season. 
 I am sending you my last shipment for this season 
 and thank you for the good returns sent me. You can 
 look for all my furs next season. 
 Yours respectfully, 
 
 Shep Home, 
 
 Dellwood, Ala. 
 
 Best in St. Louis. 
 
 I am so glad that I sent you my other shipment that 
 I am sending you two more Short Stripe Skunks. I 
 got more out of the three skins I sent you than I would 
 have gotten from any other house in St. Louis. I know 
 for I have tried them all. I will do all that I can to get 
 some more to ship to you. 
 
 Fred McNish, 
 Marshfield, Mo. 
 
 Much Obliged. 
 
 I received check last night and I am much obliged 
 and I expect to send more soon. Thursday is the last 
 day to ship rats. There has been too much ice but I 
 think I can buy a few more rats. 
 
 Respectfully, 
 
 Charles Glance, 
 Wolverine, Mich. 
 
 Gets Twice as Much. 
 
 I am writing you a line of congratulations. I was sure 
 pleased with my returns for my little shipment, 30 pieces 
 in all. You paid me double what I have been receiving. 
 I will do all I can for you in my part of the country and 
 I will send you another shipment before Spring. I can't 
 buy any fur and catch all I ship myself. As ever your 
 esteemed friend, 
 
 W. W. Higgins, 
 
 Elgin, Okla. 
 
 29 — 
 
MUSKRAT 
 
 MuskRdt 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Muskrat is a small water animal found throughout 
 the greater #part of the United States and Canada. In 
 
 recent years its fur has 
 increased greatly in value 
 and at the present time 
 thousands of men and 
 boys in the country, as 
 well as professional trap- 
 pers, are making good 
 wages trapping it. 
 In some sections the 
 Muskrat builds its den in the form of a house that arises 
 above the water to a considerable height. In other 
 regions it makes its den in the bank of a stream or a 
 lake, the entrance being under the water. The method 
 of trapping depends on the nature of the den. 
 
 In sections where Muskrats build houses the usual 
 method for trapping them is to cut a hole in the side 
 of a house and set a trap inside on the bed. The majority 
 of trappers prefer the No. 1 trap for this animal, although 
 many use the No. and the No. 13^. The trap chain 
 should be staked outside of the house and the opening 
 closed so that the diving hole will not freeze. 
 
 Where Muskrats live in dens in the banks of streams 
 the best method for catching them is to set traps at the 
 bottom of their slides. They have regular places for 
 ascending the bank in search of food, and if a trap is 
 placed at the bottom of one of these slides in about two 
 inches of water a number of rats wi'l likely be caught 
 before it is necessary to move the trap. Bait such as 
 carrots, turnips, etc., may be used if desired. This set 
 is a very good one for mink, too, and the trapper should 
 not be surprised if he even finds a coon some morning. 
 Care should be taken to stake the trap out into the 
 stream the full length of the chain, so that any animal 
 that is caught will be sure to drown. 
 
 — 30 — 
 
THE MUSKRAT 
 
 By G. B. Buffington. 
 
 The Muskrat is an amphibious animal; to be success- 
 fully trapped the habits of the animal must be known. 
 Everybody knows that the Muskrat comes from its den 
 at night and that the entrance of the den is beneath the 
 surface of the water. A good set is to place a No. 1 trap 
 in the entrance of its den. The jump trap is preferable 
 on account of its laying flat and easier to set. A drown- 
 ing pole should be placed in the water with the chain 
 ring slipped over it so when the animal is caught it can 
 reach deep water where the weight of the trap will 
 drown him, by doing this you save cruel punishment, as 
 well as driving other rats away by their cries. Visit 
 traps early as often times they amputate their legs and 
 escape. 
 
 Amateurs and beginners will find this a favorite 
 method. Go to a place where there are signs of Musk- 
 rats; find a place where the bank is about one foot high, 
 place a No. 1 Victor or jump trap about 9 inches from 
 the bank and in about 3 inches of water. Next take a 
 stick and place an apple or carrot on the end and stick 
 the stick in the bank so the bait is directly over the 
 trap. The Muskrat will get caught by the hind foot. 
 Stake the trap in deep water, visit the traps often, 
 and success is yours. 
 
 MUSKRAT TRAPPING 
 
 By J. A. Newton. 
 
 The Muskrat being distributed over a latitude extend- 
 ing from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, renders it one 
 of the most common fur bearers and it is therefore very 
 commonly trapped. 
 
 Practically all Muskrats taken with traps are caught 
 at water sets. In their acquatic habits they resemble 
 the beaver except that they do not build dams. But 
 like the beaver they do construct lodges and dig holes 
 in banks for dens, the entrances being always under 
 water. Both houses and dens are places of habitation. 
 
 — 31 — 
 
In some places the home is in the banks entirely while 
 in other such as certain lakes and water-filled swamps 
 the habitations is mainly houses. 
 
 The food consists of flag roots, lilly stems and other 
 grasses. When inhabiting rivers and other streams 
 they also devour clams which are carried up on shore 
 until the mussel dies when the shells are easily opened. 
 This is the only departure the Muskrat makes from 
 a vegetable diet. 
 
 TRAPS. 
 
 The No. 1 steel trap is the most desirable size for 
 rat trapping. A strong trap is not required or best to 
 employ for the rat having a tender leg it is sooner cut 
 off by a trap of strong grip and an escape effected. 
 
 SETTING TRAPS. 
 
 The majority of traps are set at feed signs, scratch 
 signs, dung deposits, in runways and at the foot of the 
 most receding slope of rat houses. In one instance a 
 mass of flags or reeds, grass, etc., have been cut down 
 and piled up on the water which floats but will support 
 the weight of a rat as it sits and makes its evening meal. 
 
 The trap being set the spring is twisted about half 
 wayaround toward the right hand to make the trap set 
 level and avoid the tendency of the left hand jaw to 
 cock up and make it conspicuous and a poor set. 
 
 The trap is bedded in the floating mass sufficiently to 
 cover it an inch by water and then staked full length of 
 chain away from standing brush reeds or other vegeta- 
 tion so that the rat when caught will drown. 
 
 If a trapped rat can reach roots or grass or anything 
 to tangle the chain it will do so and leave a foot in the 
 trap that has been twisted off. 
 
 If this is a fresh sign you are practically sure of the 
 game if nothing disturbs it such as human meddlers or 
 high winds. 
 
 Sometimes the water is too shallow for drowning 
 trapped rats where they are working near shore. In 
 that case go out from shore among the vegetation and 
 lop it down forming a few artificial feed beds where the 
 
 — 32 — 
 
water is two or three feet deep. Rats will visit such 
 "man made" signs and climb onto them and be readily 
 caught. A few such artificial beds formed in the deeper 
 water along a shallow shore will secure every rat. 
 
 Sometimes feed cuttings are carried up onto stationary 
 objects such as bogs, logs, brush, a fence or against 
 shore. Then the trap is set at the foot of the sign 
 always being bedded so that an inch of water covers it. 
 
 Flags, pickerel moss, etc., is often piled up against 
 shore as if it had been intended to build a house there. 
 Usually such a sign is visited by rats nightly and material 
 added to it during November or until freezing weather 
 occurs. That such sign is being visited by a rat may 
 be determined by the character of recent deposits. If 
 the roots, grass and moss at the top of the heap is still 
 wet the rat has been there the previous night and the 
 same rule obtains in regard to houses whether being 
 worked on or not. When this shore sign is clawed down 
 by a trapped rat it should be piled up again and the 
 trap reset. Often 3 or 4 or a half dozen may be caught 
 by keeping the sign piled up and setting the trap the 
 same as at the original sign. When such a deposit of 
 vegetation is all dry and no damp materials are seen 
 it is quite conclusive proof that the rat making such 
 sign has left the vicinity or been caught. 
 
 In large patches of flags and other vegetation along 
 the shores of pond, lake or river runways will be formed. 
 The trap should always be set where such paths end at 
 deep water. If not deep enough for drowning the paddle 
 or ax may be used to dredge out a drowning hole. This 
 I have often done. 
 
 In states where it is not forbidden and while there is 
 open weather no surer places of catching rats exist than 
 to set on the outside of rat houses. The trap is bedded 
 at the foot of the long incline as a rule where the rat 
 road begins and is used in carrying up materials for 
 repairs. If trapping houses is prohibited by law, as it 
 is in Michingan, then the dependence must be feed beds, 
 runways, shore signs, etc. The foregoing remarks relate 
 to trapping lakes, ponds and other bodies of water, 
 though some of them may be applied to rivers and brooks. 
 
 — 33 — 
 
TRAPPING STREAMS. 
 
 Along the banks of rivers and smaller streams traps 
 are set at scratch signs, under banks, and undermined 
 trees, on feed beds, in runways, in holes and on logs 
 and snags at dung sign. 
 
 Where scratch or digging places are found where a 
 rat is climbing the bank a trap or two is set at the foot 
 of the freshest work. At such places a piece of Muskrat 
 flesh or the intestines placed against the bank close 
 above the trap will insure the rats coming to the place 
 of setting instead of digging elsewhere when he returns 
 to the place. 
 
 When rat traps are baited with flesh of any sort 
 always stake them securely as a Coon is likely to come 
 along and get caught. 
 
 Where dung sign appears on logs rats may be easily 
 caught by chopping a bed for the trap below water line 
 where the rat swims up to crawl out on the log. Cut 
 the notch deep enough so that the trap is about an inch 
 under water, being careful not to disturb the sign in 
 so doing. Staple the chain to under side of log. If the 
 log sets too high for making a water set, cut notch as 
 before mentioned and cover the trap lightly with dry 
 broken June grass, wetting it down so that it will not 
 be blown off. If a dung sign is worth setting a trap at, 
 depends upon its character. If being visited nightly, a 
 portion of the deposit will be fresh while if it is neglected 
 and no longer used all the deposit will be old and dry in 
 appearance. 
 
 As I said previously the entrance to rat dens are 
 always under water and if inhabited will be clean and 
 scoured in appearance with no rubbish or sediment in 
 them. Here a trap is set and lowered with a stick and 
 pushed into the entrance so that the pan is just under 
 the roof of the burrow. The rat will be caught by a 
 foot or the tail and such sets always mean drowned 
 rats. If the entrance should be deep thrust a stick into 
 the bed of the stream to one side of the hole and bend 
 it down until it partly obstructs the hole compelling 
 the rat to swim lower and hit the trap. I have done 
 this and had it work successfully hundreds of times. 
 
 On ditches and brooks traps are mostly set at the 
 
 — 34 — 
 
foot of places where rats climb and scratch the bank 
 which is done to obtain the roots of grass and other plant 
 growth. If the bed is too shallow to ensure drowning a 
 drowning hole should be made with stick, ax or spade. 
 If too hard for excavating, a few brush set up out in the 
 stream, but in reach of the chain will suffice to cause a 
 tangle when the rat will drown in a few inches of water. 
 
 On any river or stream where rat signs appear under 
 a bank or undermined tree a trap should be kept there 
 during the entire open water trapping season. Every 
 rat that comes along will go under and explore such 
 places and a Mink is often taken in such a set. The 
 writer has caught dozens of Mink in traps set for Musk- 
 rats and many a one when it was least expected. 
 
 On ordinary trapping ground after traps have been 
 set three nights some of them will require moving to 
 new places, providing that one is a good trapper. If 
 the old set has not yielded a rat, or else none since the 
 first night, it may be counted a "dead one." Much 
 depends upon the number of traps used and the extent 
 of the trapping ground. If the trapper has a large num- 
 ber of traps and his territory is small he will not be 
 inclined to shift them about as he would if his kit is 
 small and his field of operations extensive. 
 
 Before starting out the rust should be removed from 
 traps by boiling them in green walnut shells, soft maple 
 bark or logwood chips. They may also be greased with 
 lard and then held over a blaze until the oil penetrates 
 every part. If they rust a second time before the trap- 
 ping season ends it may be necessary to color or grease 
 and renovate them again to be satisfactory. 
 
 MUSKRAT 
 
 By Francis Gradst. 
 
 The Muskrat is a water animal and lives in burrows 
 made in the banks of creeks, lakes and rivers, also in 
 houses built by themselves of sticks, mud and weeds. 
 They are vegetarians and eat most any kind of vegeta- 
 bles and sweet corn, but will when pressed by hunger, 
 kill and devour one of their own mates. 
 
 — 35 — 
 
One of the most successful ways to trap the Muskrat 
 is to place a trap at the entrance of their den, placing 
 a stick in the trap and chaining to stake as far out in 
 the water as possible, drive another stake down stream 
 about eight inches from the first one, so that when the 
 rat makes a dive for the water he will become tangled 
 between the stakes and drown. 
 
 If you find rat signs and cannot locate their dens, 
 build a pile of dirt in about ten inches of water, let the 
 pile project out of the water about an inch, place your 
 trap on top of the pile, cover lightly with wet grass or 
 water moss, and stake down your trap. Any Muskrat 
 going up or down stream, seeing this pile will swim out 
 and climb out to it, adding another pelt to the trappers 
 bunch. 
 
 No. 1 Jump Trap is the best for Muskrat and the older 
 they are the better, as too stout a spring breaks the 
 leg bone, thus giving them a chance to escape. 
 
 Abraham's Muskrat Bait — Sprinkle a few drops on 
 brush, log or tree close to the waters edge where your 
 traps are set and the Muskrat will be attracted by the 
 scent thus increasing your catch materially. 
 
 You will get the very best results by shipping your 
 Muskrats to I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., as we 
 have customers who are large users of this article both 
 in this country and Europe. Last season we made the 
 largest single sale of Muskrats to a European concern 
 that was made out of this market during the year Our 
 Leipzig Branch also has a great outlet for this article 
 and you cannot afford to overlook us in sending your 
 Muskrats to market if you want to get the very highest 
 prices for your skins. 
 
 Read carefully what other shippers have to say about 
 us in some of their letters which are published on other 
 pages. Largest percentage of satisfied Fur Shippers of 
 any house in the world is the proud boast of I. Abraham. 
 
 Received Fifty Percent More. 
 
 I must say that I received fully fifty percent more 
 for Coon from your house than any house I ever shipped 
 
 — 36 — 
 
to. The most furs caught in this locality are Coon, Skunk, 
 and Opossum. 
 I am a farmer and do some hunting and trapping. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Robert Hartung, 
 
 Hondo, Texas. 
 P. S. — I will recommend your house to my friends. 
 
 Willie Likes Our Returns. 
 
 Accept my thanks for the money you sent me. I did 
 not expect so much for the furs. I will tell my brother 
 trappers of your kindness and the good remittance for 
 the furs. Please send me some more tags as I will need 
 them. * 
 
 Thanking you again, I remain, 
 
 Willie Martell, 
 Twin Falls, Idaho. 
 
 More Money. 
 
 I just received my returns for the furs I sent you and 
 I am well pleased. This is more money than I can get 
 anywhere else. I will send you more soon. 
 
 R. M. Moon, 
 How, Ark. 
 
 Gets Us Two New Shippers. 
 
 I received the $15.75 this evening and referring to 
 price list I see you have paid for the five Skunk just 
 what you quote. I will recommend you as a firm that 
 pays what they quote. 
 
 You may send Price List and shipping tags to Joe 
 Stuive and R. J, Palisch, both of Sylvan Grove, Kans., 
 who wish to send you a shipment, I remain, 
 Yours truly, 
 
 G. B. Hopper, 
 Sylvan Grove, Kans. 
 
 Twice as Much. 
 
 I received your check today and was well pleased with 
 the returns. I got twice as much as I expected to get 
 for them. D. H. Ferren, 
 
 Cylon, Wise. 
 — 37 — 
 
Will Tell His Friends. 
 Your check of Nov. 30th at hand. I am more than 
 satisfied with returns. I surely will tell all of my friends 
 about your house. I am now shipping you by express a 
 bundle of furs containing four Skunk, one Mink, eight 
 Muskrat and four White Weasels. 
 I remain yours truly, 
 
 Herman Blomberg, 
 
 Theif River Falls, Minn. 
 
 Sorry He Couldn't Send More. 
 I have today sent you a small bunch of furs by express. 
 Excuse me for sending such a little bunch, I will send 
 more next time. I w^s well pleased with the returns 
 on the last shipment. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Hickey Smith, 
 
 Ozone, Tenn. 
 
 OPOSSUM 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 The Opossum is a small grizzly gray animal that is 
 found throughout the central and southern parts of the 
 
 United States. It dens in 
 the ground, as a rule, al- 
 though the dens are fre- 
 quently found in the base of 
 hollow trees and in hollow 
 logs. The Opossum is found 
 only in timbered districts. 
 Its food consists of mice, in- 
 sects, birds, paw paws, per- 
 simmons, and a variety of 
 other materials. 
 
 The Opossum is a slow, 
 stupid animal possessed of 
 little if any cunning, conse- 
 quently it is not particularly hard to trap. The usual 
 method is to set traps in thickly wooded spots, usually 
 
 Opossum 
 
along gullies, fences, or the edge of the timber. If possi- 
 ble the traps should be placed in natural enclosures, 
 such as holes in trees and stumps, a hollow between two 
 spreading roots, holes in logs, and openings among rocks. 
 If no natural enclosures can be found, a small pen can 
 be constructed of sticks, rotten wood, stones, or what- 
 ever material is handiest. Bait such as a part of a rabbit 
 or fowl or a bird should be placed just within the en- 
 trance. The trap may be staked, stapled, or fastened 
 to a clog, and should be covered, as some other animal 
 more cautious than the Opossum may come along. 
 
 The Opossum is often caught in traps set for other 
 animals. They are also frequently caught in wooden 
 traps. 
 
 The proper size of trap to use for this animal is the 
 No. 1. A trap of this size with springs of only medium 
 strength is the best to use, as the legs of the Opossum 
 are rather tender and a stiff-spring trap would be likely 
 to break the bone, thus liberating the animal. 
 
 OPOSSUM 
 
 By Elmer Hixon. 
 The Opossum den in hollow trees, logs, under brush 
 piles, sometimes in the ground under roots of trees, etc. 
 They travel old roads ■ and also along small streams 
 where there are thickets or briars on the bank, visiting 
 persimmon trees as they feed on them quite often, also 
 visiting the farmer's chicken roosts occasionally. Then 
 to trap him follow trail to persimmon tree or along 
 thicket and build a V-shaped pen or enclosure. Set trap 
 at entrance and break an egg in back beyond trap, cover 
 trap with feathers or grass. Opossum can also be caught 
 by hanging bait in bush near trail, setting trap under- 
 neath. Good bait for Opossum is rabbit, the older the 
 better. A good scent for Opossum is fish oil; catch small 
 fish put them in a large mouthed bottle about 2 weeks 
 before trapping time or a few drops of Abraham's Opos- 
 sum Bait. 
 
 -39 — 
 
OPOSSUM SET 
 
 By Martin Swansen. 
 
 The Opossum is a great night prowler and hides in 
 the bushy trees during the day time. He is not at all 
 cunning and is easily caught. Use No. V/2 trap. Set 
 trap in his haunts or at his den. Take a piece of bait 
 like fish or meat, hang bait in a tree so he can just reach 
 it or find some brush or drive a stake in the ground if 
 necessary to hang bait from. Cover trap with grass, 
 rotten wood and see that trap is directly under bait so 
 when the Oppossum reaches for the bait he will come 
 down on the trap and he will be yours. 
 
 THE OPOSSUM 
 
 By G. B. Buffington. 
 
 The Opossum is a very easy animal to capture, they 
 are not at all shy or wise. A No. 1 or 13^ trap (Jump, 
 Victor or Newhouse) will hold the largest Opossum. 
 Go to the woods, find an old hollow log or stump, place 
 a trap in both ends of the log and cover it up with rotten 
 wood or leaves; put a dead chicken, fish or fowl of any 
 kind in the log. The rottener the bait becomes the 
 better the Possum will like it. Visit the traps often. 
 Stretch all pelts of Opossums pelt side out. Dry in a cool 
 shady place and not before a fire. It is only necessary to 
 leave skins on the boards until they will hold their shape. 
 
 OPOSSUM 
 
 By W. J. Stump. 
 
 Opossums are usually caught in traps intended to 
 capture some other animal. Especially in traps set in 
 Skunk dens, as very often these animals are caught 
 where Skunks live and they seem to get on very nicely 
 together. So of course any method that would be good 
 for Skunk would be equally good for Opossum. Some- 
 times they have trails leading down along the water, 
 and as these are usually rather wide perhaps it would 
 be best to set two or three traps close together, and as 
 
 — 40 — 
 
they take bait readily, it has proven useful in many 
 cases where the blind set was not so effective. Baited 
 traps may be set in hollow longs, where logs cross water, 
 in hollow roots under cliffs, etc. By making an enclo- 
 sure, using bark, sticks or anything like the general 
 surroundings and leaving front open for trap, many other 
 animals as well as Opossum are caught. Although Opos- 
 sums are not very suspicious it is always best to cover 
 traps well as more timid animals are likely to come that 
 way. Stale bait is preferred to fresh bait. 
 
 The best way to kill Opossums is to lay them on their 
 belly and lay a pole across the neck and put one foot 
 on each side and pull body up by the tail till his neck 
 breaks. 
 
 Use Abraham's Opossum Bait in connection with the 
 above trapping methods and if there are any Opossum 
 in your locality they will surely be yours. Take a stick 
 of wood, sprinkle a few drops of the Bait on it and place 
 it near where your traps are set. Mr. Opossum cannot 
 resist this scent. 
 
 The Opossum is another one of our pet articles. We 
 dress these skins right here in our own establishment 
 and sell them in large quantities to manufacturers all 
 over the world. We positively lead the entire world in 
 handling this article and the greatness and success of 
 our method is known wherever Opossum are used by 
 the Furriers. 
 
 If you have ever shipped your Opossum to us you 
 know that no other house in the Fur Trade can equal 
 our returns, by which we mean net results to you and if 
 you have never tried us with a shipment you have been 
 sadly neglecting your own best interests. It is time for 
 you to get into the Band Wagon and learn for yourself 
 the success of the I. Abraham methods of handling furs 
 for shippers. 
 
 "A live wire always on the job." 
 
 — 41 — 
 
FINANCIAL STANDING 
 
 The following letter from one of the largest banks in 
 the West speaks for itself. Read it. 
 
 TOM RANDOLPH . 
 
 9DB.' President 
 
 W.B.COWEN , 
 
 Vice President 
 
 W..I- . McDOHALD , 
 
 vice President 
 
 J.A.LEWIS . 
 
 Casbter 
 
 C L MERBILL , 
 
 Assistant Cashier 
 
 K W WBlfiDKN . Assistant Cnnhict 
 
 O N HITCHCOCK. Asatstant Cosher 
 
 a l. VXISSENBORN Assistant Cashier 
 
 GEOROK R BAKER Asslaiani CaattleF 
 
 W M CHANDLER . Assistant Cffshler 
 
 saint Louis. September 16th,1913, 
 
 TO "?/H0M IT MY CONCERN: 
 
 We take pleasure in 
 recommending the firm of I.Abraham to all those 
 who are interested in their line of business. 
 
 They have been depos- 
 itors in this bank for a good many years and our 
 relations have always been most satisfactory in 
 every way. 
 
 We consider them men 
 of integrity, fair and honest in their dealings, 
 and men who will carry out their contracts. 
 
 Yours t 
 
 Cashier. 
 
Wells Fargo & Company 
 Express 
 
 M. N. KENDALL, 
 
 General Agent 
 
 St. Louis 
 
 Mr. I. Abraham, EXPORT FURS 
 
 St. Louis, Mo. 
 Dear Sir: — 
 
 We wish to thank you for the 
 exceptionally large volume of export 
 fur shipments with which you favored 
 us during the past season, same aggre- 
 gating in the neighborhood of some 
 400 bales. This is by far the largest 
 number of bales of export furs handled 
 by us for any one shipper in St. Louis 
 during the season. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 General Agen 
 
 n 
 
Write To -Day 
 
 Delays are always dangerous, and if you are 
 not shipping your furs to 
 
 I. ABRAHAM, 
 
 ST. LOUIS, U. S. A. 
 
 you are cheating yourself. 
 
 Most reliable inside information about the Fur 
 Market furnished free. Write us to-day and 
 get it. 
 
 We are the most thoroughly posted Fur House 
 in St. Louis. 
 
 We receive daily market reports by cable from 
 our European Branches. 
 
 We sell more furs direct to manufacturers than 
 all Commission Houses and Sellers of Furs in St. 
 Louis combined. 
 
 Get our Monthly Price Lists and Shipping 
 Tags — you can't be a successful Fur Man with- 
 out them. 
 
 44. 
 
FOX 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 The Fox is found in almost all parts of the world. In 
 North America a numer of species are found, and there 
 are several varieties of some of the 
 species. The silver, or black Fox is 
 supposed to be merely a color variant 
 of the Red Fox. 
 
 The Fox is no doubt the most cun- 
 ning of all the fur-bearing animals, 
 but it is taken in traps without great 
 difficulty where its habits are under- 
 stood. It feeds on carrion, small ani- 
 mals, and at times on vegetables. So 
 bold does it become in search of food 
 that it often gets into trouble despite 
 its cunning. 
 
 One of the best sets ever devised 
 for the fox is the old, well known 
 water set. It is made as follows: 
 Find a spring that does not freeze — 
 for early Fall trapping a small brook will do. The spring 
 should be at least four feet in diameter. A moss-covered 
 stone or a piece of sod, depending on the surroundings, 
 should be placed in the center, care being exercised to 
 leave no human signs; in the case of a brook the stone or 
 sod should be placed about a foot and one-half from the 
 bank. In either case it should rise about two or three 
 inches above the water. Bait is placed on this stone or 
 sod and a trap is set half way between the object and 
 the shore, the jaws, spring, and chain being covered 
 with soft mud or whatever is found in the bottom of 
 the spring or brook. The pan of the trap should just be 
 covered with water; now take a piece of moss or sod and 
 place it on the pan so that the latter will be about an 
 inch above the water. Bait should be placed on the 
 stone or sod previously mentioned. A Fox, in attempting 
 to get at the bait, will take the sod-covered pan for a 
 stepping place and will thus step directly on the pan. 
 
 In making the set just described the trapper should 
 wade up the stream or the outlet of the spring and should 
 set the trap from the water, being careful not to touch 
 
 — 45 — 
 
the bank. The trap may be fitted with a pronged drag 
 or be wired to a stone, which should be buried in the 
 mud of the channel. For bait the flesh of the Muskrat, 
 Opossum, or house cat, after becoming tainted, is best. 
 
 In many localities there are no springs or brooks 
 available for making the set just described. In such 
 cases it may be necessary to make a blind set. To do 
 this look for Fox trails in old stock paths, foot paths, 
 old roads in the timber, holes under fences, etc. Dig 
 out a place in trail large enough to hold a trap. Wash 
 the trap before setting to remove all scent and bed it 
 down well in dry grass or leaves. Then fill in around 
 the jaws with dry dirt and cover the springs. Next lay 
 a piece of clean paper over the trap and cover the whole 
 with a quarter inch of dirt. The chain and the drag 
 must be carefully concealed and no evidences of human 
 presence left. This is an excellent set if made properly. 
 
 If a dead animal such as a sheep or cow is dragged 
 out into the woods or fields it will not be long until 
 foxes will visit it to get food. Traps may be set in the 
 trails leading to the carcass, being covered as described 
 in the previous set and baited with parts of the carrion. 
 
 For trapping the Fox with water sets the Nos. 3 and 
 4 Oneida jump trap and the Nos. 213^ and 313^ New- 
 house are best. For land sets the Nos. 2 and 3 Oneida 
 jump trap, the No. 13^ Newhouse, and the No. 2 Victor 
 are recommended. 
 
 FOX 
 
 By Omer Stephens. 
 
 The first thing to do is to boil your traps in walnut 
 hulls or beeswax to kill the odor of the iron. There are 
 three methods of trapping the Fox: Fiyst: Take about 
 a half bushel of chaff, go to where you have seen a sign 
 of a Fox and spread your chaff out in about 3 or 4 feet 
 of space. Scatter some old meat scraps a foot square 
 in the middle of the bed so the Fox will have to go into 
 the chaff to get the bait. Keep it baited for a few days 
 and then take three traps and set them in a V-shape 
 across the spot you had baited, put some more bait 
 down and be sure the traps are well covered. Use traps 
 No. 13^ and fasten to a clog or drag. 
 
 — 46 — 
 
A good blind set for Fox: Go to some old trails and 
 look for signs of the Fox and when you have found these 
 get a stick or small pole and lay it across the path, then 
 dig out a pit just to fit the trap and put some cotton, 
 wool or leaves under the pan, cover with rotten leaves 
 or dust just enough to hide the trap and make things 
 look as near like you found them as possible. If the 
 path is over a foot wide put up some weeds or sticks 
 leaving a small space where the trap is set, this guides 
 the Fox right into the trap, as a Fox wont step on a 
 stick, he always steps just over it, and is easy to trap 
 in this way. 
 
 Find a place where the Fox goes through an old rail 
 fence and set a trap in his path where he goes through 
 the fence. 
 
 A New Shipper. 
 
 Please send me price list and shipping tags at once. 
 I have never shipped you any furs, but will make you 
 my fur buyer hereafter. I have ta ked with several 
 trappers that have been shipping to you and they say 
 that you have done better than any other house they 
 have tried. I have shipped to several different houses 
 and the last bunch of fur I shipped to St. Louis I was 
 greatly done up. I buy a good many furs and have to 
 pay all they are worth. I expect to make about 10% 
 on what I buy. I want to deal with a house that grades 
 and prices each fur on its merit, not a good price for 
 two or three skins out of a bunch and grade the balance 
 down to half value. I expect to get quite a bunch of furs 
 here so send your price list and tags as soon as you can. 
 
 H. T. Jackson, 
 
 Bloom, Kans. 
 
 Also Well Pleased. 
 
 I received your check for the furs I sent you several 
 days ago and was very well pleased. 
 
 Yours as ever, 
 
 E. L. Smith, 
 
 Paragon, Ala. 
 
 — 47 — 
 
ESTABLISHED 1841. 
 
 American Express Company. 
 
 OFFICE OF 
 
 LONOO 
 
 " LlVERP I 
 
 Foreign Department, glasg(! 
 
 417 NORTH FOURTH STREET, SOUTH 
 
 ' Rome.. 
 
 ST. LOUIS. MO. «**«*■ 
 
 Shlpplni 
 
 Messrs. I, -Abraham, 
 
 St* Louis, Mo. 
 
 Gentlemen: - 
 
 St. Louis Expr 
 for I. Ab raham; 
 
 We enclose herewith our 
 the above shipment. 
 
 Please accept our thanks 
 largest individual fur shipment ev< 
 demonstrates that you are the large 
 
 WHL/JC 
 
 — 48 
 
GENERAL OFFICES: 65 Broadway, NEW YORK. 
 
 OFFICES IN EUROPE : 
 
 (6*6 Haymarket. 
 
 j 84 Queen 8treet. 
 
 , 10 James Street . 
 
 80 Gordon 8treet. 
 
 ON 4 Oriental Place. 
 
 Piazza Venezla. 
 
 28-30 Via Vlttorla. 
 
 (1081> 
 
 r V ,a 1«4Ru*d.s Petlttt Ecurtes. 
 
 HAVRE 43 Qu*l d'OHeane. 
 
 HAMBURG .8 Alsterdamm 
 
 Bremen issAmWaii. 
 
 ANTWERP 7 Qual Van Dyck. 
 
 ROTTERDAM 1 7 Qedempte Qlashaveru 
 
 GENOA 17 Piazza Nunzlata. 
 
 Banking Correspondents at all Principal Cities and Porte ol the Commercial World- 
 
 GENERAL EUROPEAN AGENTS FOR 
 
 MERCHANTS DESPATCH 
 
 AND 
 
 NEW YORK CENTRAL and HUDSON RIVEMR. R. OO. 
 
 s B/L S-1661, 104 bales Baw Purs 
 Leipzig. G ermany. Contract Z MEu 
 
 ough bill of lading covering 
 
 r this shipment, which is the 
 forwarded from this city and 
 fur- shippers in St. Louis, 
 ars truly. 
 
 49 — 
 
Recommends Us to Others. 
 
 I received your check O. K. and will ship you today 
 by parcel post two Mink, five narrow stripe Skunk, one 
 Coon, three Civits. I will recommend you to all the 
 trappers in this locality. You will find names of a few 
 on blank enclosed. 
 
 H. H. Budding, 
 
 Allyn, Wash. 
 
 A Repeater. 
 
 Please send me a price list of fur; I shipped to you last 
 year and you gave me more for my furs than any other 
 Fur Company I ever shipped to. 
 Yours respectfully, 
 
 Horace Holaway, 
 Bay, Ark. 
 
 Greatly Surprised. 
 
 I received the money for the furs which was $2.10. 
 I was greatly surprised at the sum of money I received, 
 for up here I could not have gotten more than $1.00 or 
 less. Keep me posted and I shall send all my furs to you. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Mike Pollack, 
 Drummond, Wis. 
 
 Will Ship Again Next Season. 
 
 I received the returns for the rats I shipped you and 
 it was twice as much as I expected, I sent you three 
 more Muskrat skins and expect to ship you again the 
 coming season. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Sterling Lund, 
 
 Grandy, Minn. 
 
 Another Shipment. 
 
 I received my check all right and I was very well 
 pleased with it. I will start another shipment today. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Joe Seymoure, 
 
 Mound Valley, Kans. 
 
 — 50 — 
 
A White Weasel Shipper. 
 I received your letter with check for the Weasel skins 
 and am satisfied with the prices. If you prove to be as 
 fair hereafter I will send you all the furs I get and also 
 recommend you to other parties around here. Some 
 one recommended your house to me. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 David Nelson, 
 
 Florence, Wis. 
 
 WOLF 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 The Wolf is a member of the dog family and is found 
 throughout the greater part of North America. There 
 
 are probably only two 
 species, the timber Wolf 
 and the prairie Wolf, or 
 Coyote, although there 
 are a great many varie- 
 ties. In many sections 
 the Wolf is very destruc- 
 tive to livestock and 
 game. A number of states 
 give bounties for destroy- 
 ing Wolves. 
 
 Considerable skill and 
 knowledge of the animal is required to trap Wolves suc- 
 cessfully. The following set has been found to be a good 
 one: Fasten three or four traps to a strong hardwood 
 stake. Find a smooth sandy place and scoop out a hol- 
 low large enough to allow the stake to be driven below 
 the level of the ground. Spread the traps out in different 
 directions from the stake and cover them carefully so 
 that everything will look natural. Fasten a piece of 
 bait to the top of the stake. If a Wolf steps in one trap 
 it is likely also to step in another one and is thus held 
 securely. 
 
 Another good set is to find a bank three or four feet 
 high and place a piece of bait on the brink so that it 
 will be between two bunches of cactus. If no cactus is 
 
 Wolf 
 
 51 — 
 
growing in the right place two bunches can be trans- 
 planted. Place a trap in front of the bait and about 
 twenty inches or more from it. Cover the trap and stake 
 carefully. If a Wolf is caught it will almost always 
 jump over the bank and will be unable to get back. 
 
 For trapping the Grey Wolf the Nos. 4 and 43^ New- 
 house traps are best. For trapping the Coyote the Nos. 
 3 and 4 Newhouse, the No. 4 Oneida jump trap, and the 
 Nos. 3 and 4 Victor are recommended. 
 
 WOLF 
 
 By Fred L. West and J. M. Taylor. 
 
 When trapping for a Wolf or Coyote set your traps 
 about two feet from a cactus or brush so he can get 
 to it from one side only. 
 
 Dig a hole for your trap, chain and stake. Have hole 
 just deep enough so that your covering on trap will come 
 level with the surface of the ground. Cover your trap 
 first with paper and then with fine dirt and grass. 
 
 Always stake as short as possible, right at the spring, 
 this prevents the animal from getting a hard jerk when 
 caught. Carry away all dirt which you dig up when 
 setting trap. After you have set trap as above bait 
 with Abraham's Wolf Bait, by sprinkling five or six 
 drops on brush or ground near trap. 
 
 If you will follow the above methods carefully and 
 ship your skins to I. Abraham, there can be no question 
 about you having a prosperous season. Many trappers 
 overlook the importance of selecting the right house to 
 ship their furs to and thus fail to gain the full fruits of 
 their efforts. Make up your mind right now to send 
 your next shipment to I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., 
 and see if we don't increase your earnings. 
 
 52 — 
 
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I. ABRAHAM, St. Louis, U. S. A. 
 
 Io the magic name in the Fur World. If you are using 
 our tags on your bundles you are getting more money 
 for your furs than any trapper in your section unless he 
 uses them also. Have you any of our tags? Well then 
 use them on your next shipment, and you will find out 
 how much you have been losing by using other tags. 
 Those little tags don't amount to much in themselves, 
 in fact nearly all of them look alike, but what a differ- 
 ence in the results. We love to talk about the tags to 
 our friends and fur shippers generally and we have never 
 failed to win the argument after the first shipment. Our 
 returns convince them all that there is but one tag that 
 does the work right. 
 
 A good rule to follow about your tags is to read them 
 all over carefully, sort out the ones that read I. Abra- 
 ham, St. Louis, TJ. S. A., and then destroy all the bal- 
 ance for fear you might use one of them by mistake. 
 After you have sorted out I. Abraham's tags, you had 
 better write for more, so you will be sure to have enough 
 and after that you can go about your trapping free of 
 care and worry, for you have found the best House to 
 ship your furs to after you have caught them and can 
 rest assured that you will always get every dollar they 
 are worth. 
 
 "WE ALWAYS PAY WHAT WE QUOTE." 
 
 — 54 
 
OTTER 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 The Otter is an aquatic animal that is'found in various 
 parts of the world, usually in the wilder parts. A dis- 
 ^*3&f tinct species is found in 
 
 /^^fP^^SB^pSip^ ^ ne ^ ortn Pacific and is 
 
 m^m^^V^^^^r known as the Sea Otter. 
 
 JKtS- ij 9^S^t'r^. ^e ^ tter travels ex- 
 
 &^§M^^ ^^M ^Z^~-~^ tensively, following the 
 
 ^ -R;^^^^^*^^^i^ course of lakes and water 
 
 ^^ri^f 3 * courses for great d i s - 
 
 tances, often going as far 
 as a hundred miles at a 
 
 Otter 
 
 single trip. It has slides on the banks of streams and 
 landing places on rocks and logs projecting into the 
 water. In traveling, the Otter usually follows the center 
 of the stream and when ice is on the water it travels 
 under the ice. The Otter has a fondness for the Beaver 
 and when it finds a Beaver cutting will follow along the 
 stream until it reaches the pond where the Beaver is 
 located. This fondness for the beaver is taken advantage 
 of by many trappers as follows: The trapper finds an 
 old Beaver dam and makes a break in the center so that 
 all of the water will flow through the opening. A trap 
 is then set in the running water at the upper end of the 
 break. The passage should be narrowed down to about 
 eight inches by driving stakes in the channel. The trap 
 need not be covered but after the set has been made 
 water should be splashed over it to remove the human 
 odor. 
 
 Another good method for trapping the Otter is to find 
 a narrow place in the stream along which they travel 
 and narrow this down to about eight inches by means 
 of brush or stones. Place a trap in the channel thus 
 formed and splash water over the whole to remove 
 any scent. 
 
 The Otter is often caught at its slide by setting a 
 trap at the base of the slide in about two inches of 
 water. The Nos. 23^ and 33^ Newhouse traps were 
 designed especially for taking the Otter on its slides, 
 the trap being set directly in the slide near the bottom. 
 
 Often where a stream makes a sharp bend the trail of 
 
 — 55 — 
 
an Otter may be found where the animal cuts across the 
 land. A trap set in the edge of the water as the end of 
 the trail is a good set. 
 
 The traps used for the Otter are the Nos. 2}^, 3 and 
 33^ Newhouse, the Nos. 3 and 4 Hawley and Norton, 
 and the No. 14 Oneida jump. 
 
 In trapping the Otter it should be remembered that 
 every precaution must be taken to conceal human pres- 
 ence, as this animal is perhaps the shyest of all the fur- 
 bearing animals. 
 
 OTTER 
 
 By Elmer Hixon. 
 
 The Otter like other animals have habits which should 
 be understood by the trapper. Otters have routes over 
 which they travel which vary from two to three weeks. 
 They also have slides or play grounds along these routes. 
 To trap them set a trap at foot of slide in about three 
 or four inches of water and cover with water-soaked 
 leaves or trash from the bottom of stream. Stake out 
 in deep water so if caught you will not spoil set 'for 
 others. The Otter in traveling a crooked stream will 
 leave the water and go the nearest route striking stream 
 again further on. He has certain places where he leaves 
 and enters the water, find those places for sets. The 
 Otter will also visit marshes and brakes along the river 
 hunting fish; find his trail where he crosses on logs partly 
 under water, chip log set trap and cover with water- 
 soaked leaves or what is on bottom of slough in order 
 to have it look natural, also set along trail in water 
 where he steps or slides over limbs or logs in water 
 covering with what is natural near by. 
 
 OTTER 
 
 By Noah King. 
 When trapping for other animals along rivers always 
 look for Beaver and Otter signs. Near deep water where 
 the Otter fishes you will find a tuft of grass greener 
 than the other, if you will look around you will find 
 the Otter's droppings in this, full of fish scales, bones, 
 
 — 56 — 
 
etc. Set your No. 33^ or 4 where he lands, about five 
 inches under water, cover with water-soaked leaves and 
 boat paddle. It is best to attach trap to a sliding pole 
 and let Otter or Beaver drown, as they are liable to 
 gnaw their legs off. 
 
 When going to and from your traps you should always 
 rub Abraham Trail Scent on the soles of. your shoes and 
 also on your gloves when handling your traps. It will 
 remove every trace of human scent and increase your 
 chances of catching Mr. Otter. 
 
 We Pay What We Quote. 
 I have shipped you a few furs. I received my check 
 for the last shipment and was well pleased with it and 
 I know you do as you say you will do in paying the 
 prices you quote. Yours truly, 
 
 Wm. Dutler, 
 
 Audison, la. 
 
 Satisfied, Sends More. 
 I was well satisfied with the prices I received for my 
 last shipment and therefore I am sending you another 
 bunch today. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 Smith Vermilyea, 
 
 Dilley, Ore. 
 
 A Pleased Mink Shipper. 
 
 I received your returns yesterday for the Minks I 
 sent you and am well pleased. I have sent you another 
 shipment and if you will continue to treat me as well 
 as you have in the past I will ship to you regularly. 
 
 J. T. Alcock, 
 
 Ridgeland, Miss. 
 
 Gets a Big Price. 
 
 Received your check No. 94859, amount $16.75 for a 
 small bunch of fur which I sent you February 27th. Will 
 say am well pleased with same. Will send more just as 
 fast as I get them. J. A. Schriver, 
 
 Moriaty, New Mexico. 
 
 — 57 — 
 
The Usual Story. 
 
 I received your letter of remittance on January 25th 
 and it was much more than I expected, for which accept 
 my thanks. I will ship more furs in the near future. 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 O. H. Clark, 
 
 Kingsley, la. 
 
 Takes Furs Away from Chicago. 
 
 I received your returns for my shipment of furs and 
 am well satisfied with same. I have this day ordered a 
 Chicago house to ship you some of my furs on which they 
 would not give me satisfactory prices and I will thank 
 you to take care of same and send me returns on same 
 basis as last shipment. Am also sending you what furs 
 I have here. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 J. David Leigh, 
 Lund, Utah. 
 
 We Beat Them All. 
 
 I have changed my post office and I thought I would 
 write and tell you to send my mail to Bly, Ark., for I 
 want to keep posted on the fur market. I have shipped 
 to several fur houses and I like your grading better than 
 any one elses I have ever shipped to. I have shipped 
 furs to nearly every house in St. Louis and you have 
 beat them all in keeping me posted and paying highest 
 prices. I will ship you again next season. 
 Your friend, 
 
 W. H. Shaver, 
 
 Bly, Ark. 
 
 Short and Sweet. 
 
 We received your check O. K. today. We are well 
 satisfied. We are making up another shipment for you. 
 Respectfully, 
 
 W. O. Catrett & Co., 
 
 Sunflower, Ala. 
 
 58 — 
 
I. ABRAHAM ANIMAL BAIT 
 
 In putting this Animal Bait on the market we con- 
 sidered very carefully the best interests of our friends, 
 the Trappers. Many experiments by competent expert 
 trappers convinced us that trappers could materially 
 increase their catch by the use of this Bait. The formula 
 was discovered by a trapper and after a thorough test 
 ! we bought it from him. The Bait contains many differ- 
 ent ingredients all of which make a combination which 
 has a peculiar fascination for the particular animal which 
 it is intended to attract. While the basis for most of 
 these different scents is the same, yet each one contains 
 one or more ingredients not contained in any of the 
 others. 
 
 We have not placed this Bait on the market with the 
 idea of making any profit out of it but solely to benefit 
 trappers, as we know that it will greatly increase their 
 catch if used according to directions. We are in the 
 Fur Business and not in the business of selling Baits, 
 Traps, etc., whatever we do in this line is done strictly 
 as an accommodation to our friends and shippers and of 
 course indirectly a benefit for us ? as by increasing your 
 catch we increase our business in Furs. Fur shippers 
 will always find the House of I. Abraham ready and 
 anxious to do anything that will help the man that 
 follows the trap lines, as after all it is his efforts and 
 labor that has enabled us to build up the greatest fur 
 business in the world, and it is but natural that we 
 should feel grateful to him and deeply interested in his 
 welfare. 
 
 The great House of I. Abraham could not afford to 
 and will not recommend any proposition to trappers 
 unless convinced of its merit. We enjoy the reputation 
 all over the North American continent of having done 
 more good for trappers than any house in our line in 
 ■the world and we propose to live up to our reputation 
 now and in the future. We have followed closely the 
 lines, as laid down by the founder of this great, institu- 
 tion, to "deal fairly, honestly and liberally with anyone 
 who has confidence enough in us to ship in his furs and 
 trust to our valuation for fair treatment." The principle 
 
 — 59 — 
 
Bedver 
 
 of this rule is as sound as a rock and pays besides, for 
 which the wonderful growth of the business of I. Abra- 
 ham, St. Louis, U. S. A., is a living proof. 
 
 Ship to us once and you will never want to even try 
 any one else. 
 
 BEAVER 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Beaver was once found in fair numbers throughout 
 the United States, but they are now extinct in many 
 
 regions in which they 
 were once numerous. At 
 the present time the 
 Beaver is found in parts 
 of Canada and Alaska, in 
 some of the Northern and 
 Western States and in 
 small numbers in the 
 South. Many states now 
 have laws protecting this 
 animal. 
 
 The Beaver, like the Muskrat, builds houses that 
 arise above the water in ponds, lakes, and streams 
 They usually increase the depth of the water surrounding 
 their houses by building dams of wood and mud. ^The 
 animals live chiefly on the bark of such trees as the wil- 
 low and birch, storing the wood in small sticks under 
 water near their houses. Just how they get the wood to 
 sink and to remain in place under water is a mystery. 
 Beavers usually have a slide or trail over the center 
 of, their dam, and this a good place to set a trap. The 
 trap should be set under water at the upper side of the 
 dam just where the trail leads over it. Care must be 
 taken to fasten the trap so that the Beaver will drown, 
 otherwise it will probably escape and even if it does 
 not the other Beavers will be so frightened that they 
 cannot be caught. 
 
 Another good method for trapping the. Beaver is to 
 cut holes in the ice near their houses until a place is 
 found where the water is not more than twelve inches 
 deep. When such a place is found enlarge the hole to 
 about sixteen by twenty inches. Make a pen in the 
 
 — 60 
 
water by shoving down dead sticks about four inches 
 apart. Next cut a stick of green poplar about 2 inches 
 thick and two or three feet long, fastening it to one of 
 the corner stakes of the pen so that the poplar, which 
 is for bait, will lay along one side of the pen and be an 
 inch or two above the bottom. Set a trap inside the 
 pen, as near to the bait as possible. Cover the hole in 
 the ice with evergreen boughs to prevent its freezing 
 over. It is best not to visit this set for about a week in 
 order to allow the Beavers time to become accustomed 
 to it. 
 
 In trapping Beavers always stake the trap with dead 
 stakes or poles. The proper sizes of traps for the Beaver 
 are the Nos. 2 l A, 3, Z l A, and 4 Newhouse, the No. 4 
 Victor, and the No. 4 Oneida jump trap. 
 
 Appreciates Fair Treatment. 
 I received your check today for the furs I sent you 
 and it was very satisfactory. If you continue to treat 
 me as well as you have in the past you will get my ship- 
 ments as long as I am in the business. This will be my 
 last shipment for this Season, but please remember me 
 and send me your fur lists again next year. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 M. E. Osborn, Cherryvale, Kans. 
 
 LYNX 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 In North America there are two species of the Lynx, 
 the Canada Lynx and the Bay Lynx, or Bobcat The 
 
 Canadian species is much 
 more valuable than the 
 Bay species and conse- 
 quently is much more 
 sought after. 
 
 The Lynx is not very 
 difficult to catch in traps. 
 The usual method is to 
 make an enclosure of 
 sticks or evergreen bough 
 and set the trap inside 
 
 Lynx 
 
 61 
 
with bait. The enclosure should be about three feet 
 high, two and a half feet long, wide at the top and just 
 wide enough at the bottom to receive the trap. The 
 pen should be roofed with evergreen boughs to protect 
 it from snow. It is a good plan to fasten the bait se- 
 curely so that it will be out of reach of smaller animals. 
 Rabbit and partridge make the best bait as this is the 
 natural food of the Lynx. 
 
 The Canada Lynx and the Bay Lynx are so similar 
 in habits that practically the same methods are used 
 for trapping each. For the Canada Lynx the Nos. 3 
 and 4 traps are perhaps best. For the Bay Lynx the 
 Nos. 2 and 3 traps are recommended. 
 
 Another Shipment. 
 
 I was well pleased with the returns I received for my 
 last shipment and hope you will do as well on this one. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Ransome Amlong, 
 
 Wellman, Iowa. 
 
 MARTEN 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Pine Marten of America is found throughout the 
 timbered regions of Canada and Alaska and in the 
 
 mountainous districts of 
 the Western States. A 
 few are still' found in Min- 
 nesota, Michigan, Wis- 
 consin, New York, New 
 Hampshire, Vermont and 
 Maine. In appearance the 
 Marten greatly resembles 
 the Mink, except in color. 
 The Marten is not shy 
 nor suspicious and there- 
 fore is easy to catch. They usually travel in gullies and 
 depressions in the mountains and hills. The animals, as 
 afrule, follow the same route, consequently when their 
 
 — 62 — 
 
tracks are found in a particular place a trap, if set there, 
 will generally make a catch. 
 
 In localities where the snow does not become too 
 deep, the traps are set in enclosures, as for Mink. Where 
 the snow falls deep several methods are practiced. One 
 of the best of these is to tramp the snow down firmly 
 around a tree and build a pen of stakes or rotten wood 
 in such a way that the tree will form the back wall of 
 the pen. The sides should be from six to seven inches 
 apart. The pen may be roofed with evergreen boughs 
 and a few boughs should be allowed to hang over the 
 front in order to keep out birds and rabbits. Set a No. 1 
 trap inside of the pen and fasten a piece of meat of some 
 kind back of the trap. The pan should be covered 
 lightly with evergreen tips. 
 
 In districts where the snow becomes very deep a good' 
 set is to drive two pegs into a tree about five inches 
 apart and five or six feet above the snow. Lay the trap 
 on these pegs and fasten a piece of bait to the tree about 
 a foot above the trap. 
 
 MARTEN METHOD 
 
 Marten Swansen. 
 
 The Marten is easily trapped. Make a pen at the 
 root of a tree, stump or an old wind fall and bait with 
 birds, fish, rabbit or porcupine. Need not cover the 
 traps as the Marten has absolutely no fear of a trap, 
 but you must cover your pens to keep the snow from 
 clogging traps. Place a few drops of Abraham Marten 
 Bait in the back of the pen, this is a great attraction 
 and you will catch more of them than by using live 
 bait by itself. Ground sets are best if you can keep 
 them in working order. The best way to make 
 a tree set is to cut a good sized notch in a tree and nail 
 strips across it so as to leave just enough room for trap 
 to work freely. Then take chain around to the back of 
 the tree and drive your stake there. 
 
 The best way to make money trapping Marten is to 
 run long lines, work hard and ship your skins to I. 
 Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A. 
 
 — 63 — 
 
Changed the Tag. 
 I received the check for $7.00 for the two Lynx Cats 
 and was well pleased as they were very small ones. My 
 friend Mr. Shaw was going to ship to another St. Louis 
 house but when I showed him my returns he took the 
 other tag off the bundle and I gave him one of yours 
 and he snipped to you, also gave A. Mason one of your 
 tags so he will ship to you too. 
 
 A. K. Ishmael, 
 
 Johnnie, Nevada. 
 
 FISHER 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The Fisher is closely related to the Pine Marten and 
 is found in about the same regions. In general appear- 
 ance it resembles both the 
 Marten and the Wolverine. 
 
 Like the Marten the Fisher 
 travels along a fixed route, and 
 if its tracks are found in a 
 ravine it is certain that the 
 animal will come that way 
 again. Traps are set in enclo- 
 sures as recommended for Mar- 
 ten, but the pens should be 
 made considerably larger; they 
 should be at least two feet 
 high. In trapping for Fisher 
 care should be exercised to fas- 
 ten the trap securely for the Fisher will struggle as long 
 as there is life in it. The No. 13^ Newhouse and the No. 
 2 Victor traps are best for this animal. 
 
 As a general rule the Fisher is easy to catch, but at 
 certain times such as when food is plenty they seem to 
 become very shy. At such times it may be necessary 
 to cover the trap and the tracks of the trapper carefully 
 with snow. The Indians hang the bait on a piece of 
 light wire to prevent mice from eating it. 
 
 Fisher 
 
 — 64 
 
Read This One. 
 
 I am sending you today by express two Skunk and 
 one Mink. Spoiled Mink's tail in skinning so leave it 
 to you what it is worth. Will ship again in a few days. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Rebu Williams, 
 
 LeRoy, Mich. 
 P. S. — I received returns on other hides and was well 
 pleased. 
 
 BEAR SET 
 
 By Martin Swansen. 
 Go through a rolling canyon, find a place where a 
 side gulch comes in where the Bear travels. Now hang 
 
 a sack containing partly rot- 
 ten apples on a tree. Now 
 build a V-shaped pen in front 
 of tree, build it a little higher 
 than the bait hangs and 
 tight next to the bait. Hang 
 bait about four feet from 
 f^. ground, smear some honey 
 ^P on outside of the sack and 
 set trap covered well three 
 and one-half feet from tree 
 in entrance of the pen. Clean 
 the trap with sage brush, then sprinkle sage brush leaves 
 over trap before covering. A big chunk of meat is good 
 for bait but apples are the best. The bears are fond of 
 honey and fruit and can smell it for a long distance and 
 he pretty surely will be caught. 
 
 Bear 
 
 BEAR 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 The proper sizes of traps to use for the Bear are the 
 Nos. 5, 6, 50 and 150 Newhouse, the exact size depending 
 on the kind of Bear to be trapped. 
 
 The most common method of trapping the Bear is as 
 follows: Make a V-shaped enclosure of old logs, brush, 
 
 — 65 — 
 
etc., the pen being about eight feet long, three feet 
 high, and two or three feet wide at the entrance. Place 
 bait in the back of the pen and set a trap at the entrance, 
 driving stakes on each side to narrow the entrance. 
 Cover the trap with leaves or moss. The trap should 
 be fastened to a drag. In working with a bear trap it 
 is always a good plan to turn the loose jaw up and handle 
 the trap from underneath, as the springs are so strong 
 that they would do serious injury if the trap were sprung. 
 Bears are often taken in deadfalls, but the objection 
 to this method of trapping is that unless the traps are 
 visited each day the skin is likely to spoil. 
 
 BEAR 
 
 By C. O. Flint. 
 
 Find a place where Bears are working and hang a 
 bag full or half full of apples on a tree and build a V-sbape 
 pen and have the apple hang in the front of the pen; build 
 the pen five feet high and hang the bait four feet high 
 then set your trap two feet from the bait back from the 
 tree and cover it well with leaves and you are sure of 
 your Bear. 
 
 THE ERMINE OR WHITE WEASEL 
 
 By G. B. Buffington. 
 
 The Weasel somewhat resembles the Mink in shape 
 but smaller in size and value. In winter its fur is all 
 
 white excepting the tip of 
 the tail which is black. 
 In summer its coat turns 
 to a light brown. The 
 Weasel is shy and^cun- 
 •-*^ !!6Stf ^^^ sc ^*T^% — ning and rather hard to 
 
 WhitC ' fflddSel ( ERMINi: ) tra P- ^° tra P ** success- 
 
 fully no larger trap than 
 a No. should be used. Find a place along a stream 
 where fish and crawfish inhabit, for this is the animal's 
 
 — 66 — 
 
main food. Dig a pocket in the bank 2 inches in diameter 
 and about 1 foot deep. Place a frog or crawfish in the 
 back of the pocket, place the trap in the entrance and 
 fasten. Visit the traps often. Stretch Ermine pelts fur 
 side out and in a cool shady place. 
 
 WEASEL SET 
 
 By Marten Swansen. 
 
 Go to a place where Weasel travel or where you see 
 their tracks if snow is on ground. Now take two sticks 
 about one foot long and four or five inches thick. Lay 
 them side by side about four inches apart, cover with 
 brush or a piece of board. Now kill a rabbit or bird, 
 let it bleed over traps which should be set one at each 
 end of pen. Place bait in middle of pen and the first 
 Weasel that comes along is yours. You need not cover 
 traps as the Weasel is not trap shy. Use No. 1 traps 
 either Newhouse, Victor or Jump trap. 
 
 WEASEL 
 
 By Elmer Hixon. 
 
 The Weasel lives among the rocks, such as rock walls 
 and cliffs, also in hollow logs, brush piles, etc. The 
 way to trap him is set trap near his den along the cliffs 
 or bluffs, a small bird torn in pieces scattered over the 
 trap, also put piece under the pan of trap. The Weasel 
 will eat the scattered pieces first and then will make an 
 effort after the one under the pan of trap. They can also 
 be caught by building a rock pen or enclosure leaving a 
 small entrance; set trap just inside, put bait in back of 
 pen a piece of rabbit the bloodier the bait the better, 
 as he likes the blood. They can be trapped by just 
 setting trap inside of hollow trees covering with feathers 
 or rabbit fur, this is a good set after the snow falls as it 
 will be protected from snow and cold weather in winter. 
 
 — 67 — 
 
BADGER 
 
 1=*UA 
 
 The Badger is a stout, 
 low built animal, having 
 long, sharp claws, which 
 it can use to good ad- 
 vantage in self - protec- 
 tion. It inhabits the 
 prairie sections of North 
 America. It varies in 
 color from a silver gray 
 in the more northern sec- 
 tions, to a yellowish shade further south. It digs dens 
 in the ground or sand and very seldom leaves its den 
 during the intense cold weather. 
 
 Trapping. — The Badger can best be taken by setting 
 traps at the .mouth of their dens. The best traps to use 
 are the Victor No. 1%, Jump No. 2 or Stop Thief No. 3. 
 The traps should be carefully concealed by leaves and 
 grass and made to appear natural as the Badger is cun- 
 ning and suspicious. The best bait to use is birds or 
 frogs. Use Abraham Trail Scent in trapping for Bad- 
 ger, by rubbing it on the soles of your shoes when going 
 out to set your traps. The Badger will follow this trail 
 to your traps, and thus greatlyrincrease your catch. 
 
 MOUNTAINILION 
 
 MountdinLion 
 
 The Mountain Lion in- 
 habits the western part 
 of the United States, and 
 is caught principally in 
 the Rocky Mountains. 
 This animal is a night 
 prowler and very vicious, 
 and you should never 
 visit your traps without 
 a large bore rifle as you 
 are pretty sure to need it. 
 The skin is used mostly 
 
 for rugs, and you should be careful to leave head, feet 
 and tail intact when skinning. Use large sized traps, 
 cover them well and use a heavy clog or drag on trap 
 
 — 68 — 
 
chain. Fresh meat is the best bait. Rub a few drops 
 of Abraham Mountain Lion Bait on the meat and hang 
 it on the lower branches of a tree directly over trap. 
 
 Deadfalls can also be used in trapping the Mountain 
 Lion. Use Abraham Trail Scent when going to set your 
 traps, as it will attract the animals to your traps from 
 great distances. 
 
 His First Offense. 
 
 I received the check you sent me a few days ago and 
 was well satisfied with the grade and price. This was 
 the first time I ever shipped any furs. I hope to have 
 some more to send you soon. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Clyde Gunderson, 
 Elkpoint, S. Dak. 
 
 RinqtdlCdt 
 
 RINGTAIL 
 
 By West & Taylor. 
 
 Around hollow logs and under 
 roots of trees is a good place to 
 trap for this animal. Birds and 
 rats are natural bait for them. 
 Place bait as near trap as possi- 
 ble. Use a No. 2 Victor trap. 
 
 WILD CAT 
 
 By West & Taylor. 
 This animal is found around thickets and in cliffs. 
 
 Traps set around either 
 of these places and baited 
 with a rabbit or a bird, 
 hung 18 or 20 inches above 
 the traps and tied good 
 and solid so he will not 
 be able to get it too 
 easy. Use Abraham Wild 
 Cat Bait to attract Wild 
 Cats. 
 
 69 — 
 
Paid More Than We Quoted. 
 
 I received my returns all O. K. and was surprised to 
 see that you paid me twenty-five cents more for each 
 Skunk than you quote them. Also your grading was 
 very liberal. I sure will remain a shipper of I. Abra- 
 ham and will mention your house to all my friends. 
 
 J. W. Kingery, 
 
 Loveland, Colo. 
 
 P. S. — Please send A. H. Davis of Loveland your list, 
 he saw my returns and he wants your list and will ship 
 also. 
 
 WOLVERINE 
 
 This animal is a great robber and frequents places 
 where he can feed on other disabled animals, often times 
 
 robbing traps of animals 
 that have already been 
 caught. The Wolverine 
 is very powerful and large 
 heavy traps should be 
 used. Use Abraham Trail 
 Scent when going to set 
 
 Wnluarinp y° ur tra P s for Wolverine. 
 
 7W/VC////C Traps should be set sur- 
 
 rounding a live rabbit tied to a stake. Cover traps and 
 tie them to a heavy log or very strong stake. 
 
 Indiana Shipper Well Pleased. 
 
 I received my check for the furs I shipped you on the 
 28th of December and was well satisfied with it and 
 also the other bunch I sent you on the 29th, as these 
 Skunks were in bad condition, I will send you another 
 bunch next week. 
 
 Yours, Samuel Hunt, 
 
 Princeton, Ind. 
 
 — 70 — 
 
Recommends Us. 
 
 Your returns so far have beat those of any other house 
 and I will gladly recommend you to brother trappers 
 as a reliable house to ship to. 
 Your patron, 
 
 Jno. Fitzpatrick, 
 
 Mulhall, Okla. 
 
 CONCEALING TRAPS 
 
 By J. A. Newton. 
 
 Where human enemies to the trap line exist, traps 
 should not be set in a lavish manner. Use as few as 
 possible to do the work and make a practice of setting 
 traps at signs where they will be out of sight of the 
 ordinary stroller. Even when setting under banks, 
 roots, brush and other places of partial concealment, 
 cover traps lightly with sand, mud, leaves, grass, etc., 
 and use a short stake and drive it below the surface of 
 the stream and plaster the top with mud. Sometimes 
 I use a bush with all the limbs left on for a stake and 
 when used none but the professional trap thief will 
 detect that it is a trap stake. Sometimes even he is 
 fooled by it. 
 
 When a trapper conceals his traps closely it may 
 bother him to find them himself. To avoid this I mark 
 the place' of setting by taking a shaving off a tree or 
 bush near by or tie a knot in the grass. Mark the spot 
 in any way that will cause you to remember the place 
 but not so conspicuous as to be recognized by the light 
 fingered fellow. 
 
 HANDLING RAW FURS 
 
 By H. J. Stevens. 
 
 A knowledge of how to catch fur-bearing animals is 
 not all that a trapper needs in order to be successful. 
 It is equally as important for him to know how to skin 
 animals and how properly to care for the pelts. Thou- 
 
 — 71 — 
 
sands of dollars worth of fur is wasted each year because 
 of improper methods of handling. 
 
 There are two general ways of skinning fur-bearing 
 animals, namely, "casing" and skinning "open." By 
 casing is meant the removing of a skin by pulling it 
 over the head of the animal so that the skin is left intact 
 save for the leg openings. By skinning open is meant the 
 removing of a skin by splitting it up the abdomen so 
 that it is open. The mink, skunk, wolf, opossum, fox, 
 marten, fisher, muskrat, civet, and lynx should be cased. 
 The bear, coon, beaver, and coyote should be skinned 
 open. 
 
 To remove a skin by the first mentioned method hang 
 the animal up by the hind legs or the tail. Cut the skin 
 around the feet and rip it down the back of the hind 
 legs to and around the vent. Remove the skin from the 
 hind legs and strip the tail by slipping a split stick over 
 the bone. Next pull the skin down over the body, keep- 
 ing it as free from flesh and fat as possible. The skin 
 should be drawn from the front legs and pulled or peeled 
 down until the ears are reached; these should be cut 
 from the head. The skin should be carefully cut loose 
 about the eyes and the nose. When removed it will 
 be in the form of a pocket with the fur side in. 
 
 In the case of the Otter the tail should be ripped open 
 its entire length on the underneath side. The tail of 
 the Muskrat and of the Opossum does not have fur, con- 
 sequently it need not be skinned. 
 
 To skin an animal by the open method rip the skin 
 on the belly from the point of the lower jaw to the vent, 
 down the back of the hind legs, and on the inside of the 
 front legs across the breast. Such animals as Bears and 
 Wolves that are often used for mounting or for rugs 
 should have the feet left on but those of other animals 
 should be removed. In skinning the Beaver the skin 
 of the legs is not ripped as in the case of the other 
 animals. 
 
 As soon as a skin has been removed by either method 
 it should be fleshed. This is done by stretching it over 
 a smooth board cut the proper shape or tacking it to 
 a board, depending on whether it is cased or open, and 
 scraping it with a blunt tool such as a hatchet. This 
 process removes all surplus fat and tissue. Care must 
 
 — 72 — 
 
be taken, however, not to cut or score the pelt in any 
 way. 
 
 After a skin has been fleshed it is ready for stretching. 
 Cased skins are stretched over a thin board cut to fit 
 the skin. The skin should be stretched just tight enough 
 to take out the slack but not tight enough to strain the 
 pelt, as this would give it a poor appearance when dried. 
 Open skins are tacked to a flat surface such as the side 
 of a wall. Raccoon should be stretched nearly square 
 but all other skins should be stretched to their natural 
 shape. 
 
 Furs should be cured in a dry, airy place. They should 
 never be allowed near a fire as the heat will make them 
 brittle and useless. As soon as the skins are dried they 
 should be removed from the stretchers. Lynx and Fox 
 skins should be turned with the fur side out as soon as 
 they can be changed safely. 
 
 Furs well fleshed and stretched, if caught in season, 
 will be certain to bring good prices. 
 
 HANDLING FURS 
 
 By J. A. Newton. 
 
 Skunks should be skinned whole, beginning at the 
 rump and skinning around the essence sack which lies 
 just over the vent. Scrape clean of fat or it will be likely 
 to heat the pelt and loosen the fur. Leave entire head 
 on pelt, ears, eyelets and nose 
 
 Have about 3 sizes of thin planed boards and stretch 
 with flesh outside. Never skin open as you would a 
 Coon. Don't pluck or shave out or blacken any white 
 portion. It damages skins greatly and is easily detected 
 by the fur dealers. 
 
 Strictly prime Skunks may sometimes be held with 
 the expectation of receiving higher prices in mid winter 
 but all unprime, those that turn blue on fleshside when 
 dry, should be sold before the holidays. 
 
 — 73 — 
 
HANDLING RAT PELTS 
 
 Skin Rats from the rump leaving it whole and leave 
 on ears, eyelets and noses. Clean the pelt of flesh and 
 fat. 
 
 Use about 5 sizes of thin planed boards with sand 
 papered edges. The sizes being extra large, large, 
 medium, small and kits. More medium sized boards 
 will be required than any other. 
 
 When boarded have ears and back on one side and 
 belly on the other. Never a fore leg and ear to each 
 side. Make boards not narrower than about an inch 
 at shoulder than at base. Drive about six nails at base 
 of skin on each side stretching the back first, and putting- 
 first nail in the center where the tail was attached. 
 
 Don't remove from boards until dry and while drying 
 hang separately under a roof that sheds the rain and 
 where there is a circulation of air. Never dry in the 
 sun nor by the heat from fires; it makes them brittle 
 and unprime in appearance. When removed from the 
 boards string them on a wire or cord that passes through 
 eyelets and not too many in a bunch or they sweat and 
 mildew. 
 
 SELLING. 
 
 Sell the autumn and early winter catch of Rats before 
 the holidays. Remember that fall Rats seldom advance 
 in price after that date, and none of your catch can be 
 classed as winter until pelts are about Y2 red and white 
 on the flesh side. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 A 32-20 Winchester rifle is a good arm for all around 
 hunting and on the trap line. 
 
 Visit traps often so furs will not become tainted. 
 
 Never kill more game than can be used. 
 
 Skin animals as soon as they are caught. 
 
 Never take dogs with you in visiting traps. 
 
 Remove all fat and flesh from pelts. 
 
 Always have a good belt knife and revolver handy 
 on the trap line. 
 
 — 74 — 
 
We Pay the Price. 
 
 I received the returns today and was surprised at the 
 prices paid. I can say that you are the best house I 
 ever shipped to and treated me as a gentleman and 
 paid what you quote. You can depend on always getting 
 my furs from now on and I will tell all the other fur 
 shippers here about you. 
 I remain one of your shippers, 
 
 Chas. Heskett, 
 
 Wakefield, Kans. 
 
 Shipping for Five Years 
 I have been a fur shipper to you for five years. Have 
 shipped to other parties, but can truthfully say I don't 
 get as good returns from others as I get from I. Abraham. 
 I advise all my friends to ship to Abraham, when wanting 
 good returns. 
 I remain, as ever, your fur shipper, 
 
 Harry Huffman, 
 
 Ivan, Ark. 
 Shipped for Three Years 
 I was very glad to receive check for those furs I ship- 
 ped, and expected to get about $10.00, but received $12.70. 
 You give me the highest prices. I have been shipping 
 furs to you for three years and I am sure that I have 
 gotten actually all my furs are worth, and I shall con- 
 tinue shipping to you as long as I am in the business of 
 handling furs. I will have a small shipment soon, and 
 you will be the one who will get it. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Gouner Stocker, 
 
 Moravia, Iowa. 
 
 A Missouri Shipper 
 I used to ship you furs from Coffeyburg, Mo., and 
 our business relations were very agreeable. Am ship- 
 ping you some furs today, and if the selections and price 
 are right, you may expect more. Am going to buy some 
 soon as they get Prime. Please send tags and blank 
 lists. This shipment contains, 15 Rats, 1 Skunk (black), 
 4 Opossum. 
 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 O. W. Collins, 
 
 Ewing, Mo. 
 — 75 — 
 
State Game Laws 
 
 ALABAMA 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan; 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer (Does protected), Nov. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Squirrel, Oct. 1st to Feb. 28th. Wild Turkey 
 (males only), Dec. 1st to March 31st. Quail, Nov. 1st to 
 Feb. 28th. Doves, Aug. 1st to Feb. 28th. Swans, Geese, 
 Ducks, Wood-Cocks and other Shore Birds, Sept. 1st to 
 March 15th. Snipe and Plover Nov. 1st to April 30th. 
 Ruffed Grouse, Pheasant and Imported Game Birds, sea- 
 son closed. 
 
 Hunting Licence: County, $1.00; resident, State, $3.00; 
 non-resident, $15.00. 
 
 ALASKA 
 
 Open season for BLACK BEAR, Sept. 1st to May 31st. 
 FOX, LYNX and WILD CAT, Nov. 16th to Feb. 28th. 
 WOLF, WOLVERINE, Rabbit or Hare, Jan. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. MUSK RAT, Dec. 1st to May 15th. SEA OTTER 
 and BEAVER, season closed. LAND OTTER, MINK, 
 MARTEN, FISHER, SABLE and ERMINE, Nov. 16th 
 to March 31st. 
 
 Killing of any fur-bearing animals by means of any 
 poison is prohibited at all times. 
 
 Hunting license for all big game except Deer and 
 Goats: Citizens of the United States, $50.00: non- res- 
 idents and aliens, $100.00. 
 
 ARIZONA 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Male Deer, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. 
 Female Deer, Fawn, Antelope, Elk, Mountain Goat and 
 Mountain Sheep are protected throughout the year. 
 Quail, Grouse, Pheasant, Snipe and Partridge, Oct. 15th 
 to Jan. 31st. Ducks, Geese, Doves and Rabbits may be 
 taken at any time. Turkey (Male only), Sept. 15th to 
 Nov. 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-res- 
 ident—to hunt deer, $10.00. 
 
 ARKANSAS 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, Sept. 1st to Jan. 31st. Wild 
 Turkey, Sept. 1st to April 30th. Quail and Partridge, 
 Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. Prairie Chicken, Nov. 1st to 
 Nov. 30th. Pheasants, season closed. 
 
 — 76 — 
 
CALIFORNIA 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. ALL 
 OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS may betaken at any 
 time. Game protected: Does and Fawn Deer, Elk, Ante- 
 lope, Mountain Sheep, Wild Pheasant, Swan, Bob White 
 Quail, Imported Quail, Partridge, Wild Turkey and 
 Eagle. 
 
 Hunting - License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00; 
 alien, $25.00. 
 
 COLORADO 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS ex- 
 cept BEAVER, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. BEAVER, protected 
 throughout the year. Deer (female protected), Oct. 1st 
 to the 6th. Elk, Mountain Sheep, Antelope, Wild Turkeys, 
 Quail and Imported Game, season closed. Ducks, Geese, 
 Swan and other Water Fowl, Oct. 1st to Feb. 28th. Prai- 
 rie Chickens and Grouse, Aug. 15th to Oct. 10th. Doves, 
 Aug. 1st to Aug. 31st. Curlew, Plover and Snipe, Oct. 
 1st to March 1st.. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 CONNECTICUT 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS ex- 
 cept OTTER, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. OTTER, Nov. 1st to 
 April 1st. ..Hare or Rabbit, Oct. 1st to Jan. 14th. Geese 
 or Swan, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Wood Duck, season 
 closed. All other Ducks, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Quail, 
 Woodcock, Partridge and Pheasant, Oct. 8th to Nov. 23rd. 
 Shore Birds, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.25; non-resident, $10.25; 
 alien, $15.25. 
 
 DELAWARE 
 
 Open season for MINK, SKUNK, MUSKRAT and OT- 
 TER, Dec. 1st to March 15th. FOX, Oct. 1st to April 
 30th. RACCOON and OPOSSUM, Oct. 1st to Feb. 15th. 
 Hares, Rabbits, Quail, Partridge and Pheasant, Nov. 15th 
 to Dec. 31st. Squirrel, Sept. 15th to Dec. 31st. Wood- 
 cock, Nov. 15th to Dec. 31st and from July 1st to Aug. 
 31st. Geese, Oct. 1st to March 31st. Wild Ducks, Oct. 
 1st to April 15th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, not necessary; non-resi- 
 dent, $5.00. 
 
 FLORIDA 
 
 All fur-bearing animals open season. 
 
 Open season for Deer, Nov. 1st to Jan. 31st. Wild 
 Turkey, Quail and Partridge, Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. 
 Wild Ducks, Oct. 1st to March 31st. .Diamond Back Ter- 
 rapin (except in the Gulf of Mexico), Aug. 1st to April 
 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Non-resident, $10.00 in each County. 
 
 — 77 — 
 
GEORGIA 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. Wild 
 Turkey, Pheasant, Quail, Partridge, Doves and Snipe, 
 Nov. 20th to Feb. 20th. Wood Ducks and Woodcock, 
 Nov. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 IDAHO 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. Open sea- 
 son for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Moose, Buffalo, Antelope, Caribou, Swan, 
 Mongolian Pheasants, season closed. Mountain Sheep 
 and Mountain Goats, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. Quail, Nov. 
 1st to' Nov. 30th. Ducks, Geese and Plover, Sept. 1st to 
 Jan. 31st. 
 
 Hunting 1 License: Resident. $1.00; non-resident, for 
 birds, $5.00; for fish, $2.00; for big game, $25.00. 
 
 ILLINOIS 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Nov. 
 1st to April 30th. Deer, Turkeys, Pheasant, Partridge and 
 Woodcock, are protected throughout the year. Squirrel, 
 June 1st to Nov. 15th. Plover and other Shore Birds, 
 Sept. 2nd to April 30th. Geese, Ducks and Water Fowl, 
 Sept. 2nd to April 14th. Prairie Chicken, Nov. 12th to 
 Nov. 17th. Quail, Nov. 11th to Dec. 9th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $25.50. 
 
 INDIANA 
 
 Open season for MINK, COON, OPPOSSUM, SKUNK 
 and MUSKRAT, Nov. 1st. to March 31st. ALL OTHER 
 FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, 
 Wild Turkeys and Pheasants are protected throughout 
 the year. Squirrel, July 1st to Sept. 30th. Quail and 
 Grouse, Nov. 10th to Dec. 31st. Water Fowl, Sept. 1st to 
 April 15th. Woodcock, Nov. 10th to Dec. 31st and July 
 1st to Sept. 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; none required on 
 own land; non-resident, $15.50. 
 
 IOWA 
 
 Open season for BEAVER, MINK, OTTER and MUSK- 
 RAT, Dec. 1st to March 31st. ALL OTHER FUR- BEAR- 
 ING ANIMALS, open season throughout the year. Deer, 
 and Elk, season closed. Squirrel, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Prairie Chicken, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. Woodcock, July 
 10th to Dec. 31st. .Turkey, Quail, Ruffed Grouse or 
 Pheasant, Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th. Plover, Sandpiper, Geese 
 andDucks, Sept. 1st to April 15th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 — 78 — 
 
KANSAS 
 
 Open season for MINK, RACCOON, OPOSSUM, 
 SKUNK, CIVET CAT and MUSKRAT, Nov. 16th to 
 March 14th. ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, 
 Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st, except BEAVER, OTTER, Antelope, 
 and Deer, season closed. FOX and Squirrel, Sept. 1st to 
 Dec. 31st. Prairie Chicken, Oct. 1st to Oct. 31st. Quail, 
 Nov. 15th to Nov. 30th. Geese and Ducks, Sept. 1st to 
 April 15th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $15.00. 
 
 KENTUCKY 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, Sept. 1st to Feb. 28th. Squirrel, 
 Nov. 15th to Sept. 15th. Geese, Wood Duck and other 
 Wild Ducks, Aug-. 15th to March 31st. Quail and Part- 
 ridge, Nov. 15th to Dec. 31st. Wild Turkey, Sept. 1st to 
 Jan. 31st. Doves, Aug. 1st to Jan. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $15.00. 
 
 LOUISIANA 
 
 Open season for MINK, OTTER, MUSKRAT and 
 COON, Nov. 1st to Jan. 31st. ALL OTHER FUR-BEAR- 
 ING ANIMALS may be taken at any time. Deer (male 
 only), Oct. 2nd to Dec. 31st. Geese, Ducks, etc., Oct. 1st 
 to Feb. 28th. Wild Turkey Cocks (Hens protected), Nov. 
 15th to March 31st. Quail, Nov. 15th to Feb. 28th. 
 Snipe and Sandpipers, Sept. 15th to March 31st. Wood- 
 cock, Jan. 1st to Feb. 28th. Black Mallard, Aug. 1st to 
 Feb. 28th. Prairie Chicken, Pheasants and Partridge, 
 season closed. Squirrel, July 2nd to Feb. 28th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; on own or leased 
 land, none; non-resident, $15.00; on own land, $5.00. 
 
 MAINE 
 
 Open season for MINK, OTTER, MARTEN and FISH- 
 ER, Oct. 20th to March 31st. MUSKRAT, Nov. 1st to 
 May 1st. BEAVER, season closed. ALL OTHER FUR- 
 BEARING ANIMALS, Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. Moose, 
 (protected on Mt. Desert Island), Oct. 15th to Nov. 30th. 
 Deer, Oct. 1st to Nov. 30th. Ducks, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Woodcocks and Ruffed Grouse, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. 
 Plover, Snipe and Sandpipers, Aug. 1st to Nov. 30th 
 Wood Ducks, Partridge, Quail, and Pheasants season 
 closed. 
 
 Hunting License: Non-resident, before Oct. 1st, $5.00: 
 after Oct. 1st, $15.00. 
 
 MARYLAND 
 
 This State has special laws for the different Counties. 
 Write to State Game Warden, Baltimore, for any in- 
 formation you desire. 
 
 — 79 — 
 
MASSACHUSETTS 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 3ist. Rabbits and Hares, Oct. 12th to Feb. 
 2Sth. Gray Squirrel, Oct. 15th to Nov. 14th. Ruffed 
 Grouse, or Partridge, Woodcock and Quail, Oct. 12th to 
 Nov. 12th. Ducks and Geese, Sept. 15th to Dec. 31st. 
 Plover, Snipe, Sandpiper or Mudhens and other Shore 
 Birds, Aug. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting- License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00: 
 aliens, $15.00. 
 
 MICHIGAN 
 
 Open season for OTTER, FISHER, MARTEN, FOX, 
 MINK, RACCOON and SKUNK, Nov. 1st to March 31st. 
 MUSKRAT, Nov. 1st to April 15th. BEAVER can be 
 trapped on payment of $10.00 license. Open season for 
 ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Deer (County laws), Oct. 15th to Nov. 30th. Moose, 
 Elk and Squirrel, protected throughout the year. Rab- 
 bits, Oct. 15th to Feb. 28th. Quail, protected until 1914. 
 Partridge, Oct: 15th to Nov. 30th. Ducks, Geese, Snipe, 
 Plover, etc., Oc t. 15th to Dec. 31st. Prairie Chicken, 
 Doves, European Partridge, Pheasants and Turkey, season 
 closed. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for Deer, $1.50; no license 
 to hunt on own land; non-resident, for Deer, $25.00; other 
 game, $10.00. 
 
 MINNESOTA 
 
 Open season for MINK and MUSKRAT, Dec. 1st to 
 April 15th. BEAVER, protected throughout the year. 
 ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Elk and Caribou, season closed. Moose and Deer, 
 Nov. 10th to Nov. 30th. Doves, Snipe, Prairie Chicken, 
 Woodcock and Piover, Sept. 7th to Nov. 7th. Quail, Part- 
 ridge, Pheasant and Ruffed Grouse, Oct. 1st to Nov. 30th. 
 Geese, Ducks and other Water Fowl, Sept. 7th to Nov. 
 30th. Mongolian, Chinese and English Pheasants, season 
 closed. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, small game outside own 
 County, $1.00; big game, $1.00; non-resident, for trapping 
 of birds, $10.00; big game, $25.00. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI 
 
 Open season for BEAR, Nov. 15th to Feb. 28th. ALL 
 OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Deer, Nov. 15th to Feb. 28th. Spotted Fawn and Turkey 
 Hens, season closed. Doves, July 1st to Feb. 28th. Wild 
 Turkey (male only), Jan. 1st to April 30th. Quail, Nov. 
 1st to Feb. 28th. Geese, Ducks, Plover and Mudhens, 
 Sept. 1st to Feb. 28th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, County license, $10.00; State license, $10.00. 
 
MISSOURI 
 
 Open season for fur-bearing animals is Nov. 1st to Jan. 
 Slst, except when they destroy propertj^ they may be killed 
 at all times. Wild Turkey and Quail, Nov. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Ducks, Geese and Snipe, Sept. 15th to April 30th. Plover 
 and Doves, Sept. 1st to Dec. Slst. Woodcock, Prairie 
 Chicken, Pheasant, etc., protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, in own and adjoining Coun- 
 ties, $1.00; in all Counties of State, $5.00; non-resident, 
 in all Counties of State, $25.00. 
 
 MONTANA 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the vear. Open season 
 for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st 
 to Dec. 31st. Deer, Elk and Goats, Oct. 1st. to Nov. 30th. 
 Moose, Buffalo and Antelope, season closed. Quail, Pheas- 
 ants, Doves, etc., season closed. Grouse, Prairie Chicken, 
 Pheasants and Partridge, Oct. 1st to Oct. 31st. Geese and 
 Ducks, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, for 
 small game and fish, $10.00; for all game and fish, $25.00. 
 
 NEBRASKA 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. Open season 
 for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st 
 to Dec. 31st. Squirrel, Oct. 1st to Nov. 30th. Deer and 
 Antelope, season closed. Ducks, Geese and other Water 
 Fowl, Sept. 1st to April 5th. Prairie Chickens and 
 Grouse, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. Quail, Nov. 1st to 15th. 
 Swan and White Cranes, protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 NEVADA 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. Open season 
 for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st 
 to Dec. 31st. Deer, Sept. 15th to Oct. 15th. Valley Quail, 
 Oct. 15th to Jan. 15th. Mountain Quail and Grouse, Oct. 
 1st. to Dec. 31st. Ducks Geese, Snipe and Swan, Sept. 
 15th to March 15th. Pheasants, Bob White Quail and 
 Partridge, season closed. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00; 
 alien, $25.00. 
 
 *NEW HAMPSHIRE 
 
 BEAVER, is protected throughout the year. Open sea- 
 son for MARTEN, MUSKRAT, SKUNK, FOX, OTTER, 
 FISHER and MINK from Oct. 1st to March 31st. ALL 
 OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Moose, Caribou and Elk, season closed. Hare and Rabbit, 
 Oct. 1st to March 31st. Squirrel, season closed. Wood- 
 
 special County laws. 
 
 — 81 — 
 
cock, Ruffed Grouse, Partridge, Quail and Snipe, Oct. 1st 
 to Nov. 30th. Ducks and Plover, Oct. 1st to Jan. 31st. 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 NEW JERSEY 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. ALL OTHER 
 FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st, except 
 Mink, Skunk, Otter and Muskrat, Nov. 15th to March 31st. 
 Quail, Rabbit, Squirrel Pheasants (male), Prairie Chicken, 
 Wild Turkey and Hungarian Partridge, Nov. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Mudhen and Reed Bird, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Female 
 English Ringneck Pheasants, season closed until Nov. 1st, 
 1914. Wood Ducks, season closed until April 1st, 1915. 
 Woodcocks, Oct 15th to Dec. 31st. Black and Mallard 
 Ducks, Nov. 1st to March 1st. All other Ducks and Swan, 
 except Black Mallard, Wood and Shelldrake, Nov. 1st to 
 March 15th. Geese and Shelldrake, Nov. 1st to April 10th. 
 Deer having hair visible above horns may be taken on 
 Nov. 5th. It is illegal to use any rifle or any firearm of 
 any kind of a smaller calibre than 12 -gauge or to use 
 missile larger than buckshot or to hunt at night or to 
 hunt with dogs. Only one deer a year may be taken. 
 Open season for Ducks, Geese and Brant on the .Delaware 
 River and Bay, Sept. 1st to March 1st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 NEW MEXICO 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. Open season 
 for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to 
 Dec. 31st. Deer, Oct. 1st to Nov. 15th. Elk, Mountain 
 Sheep and Antelope, protected at all times. Wild Turkey, 
 Nov. 1st to Jan. 15th. Grouse and Quail, Oct. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Doves, July 1st to Sept. 30th. Snipe and Plover, 
 Sept. 1st to March 31st. White Grouse, Quail, Pheas- 
 ants, Wild Pigeon and Prairie Chickens, protected 
 throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for bird and big game, 
 $1.00; general license, $1.50; non-resident, big game and 
 bird, $10.00. 
 
 *NEW YORK 
 
 Open season for MINK, MUSKRAT and MARTEN, Nov- 
 ember, December, January, February March and April 1st 
 to 20th; RACCOON, October, November, December, Janu- 
 ary, February, March and April 1st to 20th (unlawful to 
 take in traps during month of October); SKUNK, Novem- 
 ber, December and January (unlawful to take from holes 
 or dens by digging, smoking or use of chemicals) ; BEAVER 
 protected at all times. All other FUR-BEARING ANI- 
 MALS not protected. 
 
 Trapping license — resident $1.10. Non-resident (tax 
 payer), $10.50. Non-resident $20.50. 
 
 * Special County laws. 
 
 — 82 — 
 
NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 Each County in the State has its own set of game 
 laws and you will have to write the County Game "War- 
 dens of the various Counties for copy of County law. 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA 
 
 BEAVER and OTTER are protected throughout the 
 year. Open season for MINK and MUSK RAT, Nov. 15th 
 to April 15th. ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, 
 Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, Nov. 10th to Nov. 30th. 
 Moose, Elk and Antelope, season closed. Prairie Chicken, 
 Grouse, Snipe and Doves, Sept. 7th to Oct. 31st. Wild 
 Ducks and Geese, Sept. 7th to May 10th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $25.00. 
 
 OHIO 
 
 Open season for FOX, Oct. 1st to Jan. 9th. RACCOON, 
 Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. SKUNK, Nov. 15th to Jan. 
 31st. MUSKRAT, Jan. 1st to March 31st. ALL OTHER 
 FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Squir- 
 rel, Sept. 15th to Oct. 20th. Rabbit and Quail, Nov. 15th 
 to Dec. 4th. Woodcock, Sept. 1st to Dec. 4th. Geese, 
 Ducks, Plover, Snipe, etc., Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st and from 
 March 1st to April 20th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, $15.25. 
 
 OKLAHOMA 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Buck Deer, Nov. 15th to Dec. 15th. 
 Antelope, season closed until Nov. 15th, 1914. Female 
 Deer, protected throughout the year. Wild Turkey, 
 Nov. 15th to Jan. 1st and March 15th to April 15th for 
 males only. Quail, all varieties, Nov. 15th to Feb. 1st. 
 Prairie Chicken, Sept. 1st to Nov. 1st. Snipe, Plover 
 and other Shore Birds, Aug. 15th to May 1st. Ducks, 
 Swan and Geese, Aug. 15th to May 1st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.25; non-resident, $15.00; 
 alien, $25.00. 
 
 *OREGON 
 
 BEAVER, protected throughout the year. Open season 
 for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st 
 to Dec. 31st. Buck Deer, Aug. 1st to Oct. 31st. Elk, 
 Mountain Sheep, Antelope and Fawns are protected 
 throughout the year. Gray Squirrels, Oct. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Sage Birds, Aug. 1st to Oct. 31st. There are special 
 County laws governing the open season for Geese, Ducks, 
 Pheasants, Grouse, Partridge and Quail. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00. 
 
 'Special County laws. 
 
 — 83 — 
 
PENNSYLVANIA 
 
 BEAVER season closed. Open season for BEAR, Oct. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. It is unlawful to trap BEAR with a steel 
 trap. RACCOON, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. ALL OTHER 
 FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, 
 Nov. 15th to Nov. 30th. Hares, Rabbits and Squirrels, 
 Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th. Doves, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Snipe, 
 Sept. 1st to April 30th. Pheasants, Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th. 
 Woodcock, Oct. 1st to Dec. 1st. Wild Turkey, Virginia 
 Partridge and Grouse, Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th. Ducks, Geese 
 and other Water Fowl, Sept. 1st to April 10th. Hungarian 
 Quail, Oct. 15th to Nov. 15th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, $10.00. 
 
 RHODE ISLAND 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, protected throughout the year. 
 Rabbits, Hares and Gray Squirrels, open season, Nov. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Partridge, Quail and Woodcock, Oct. 
 15th to Dec. 15th. Black Duck and Wood Duck, Aug. 15th 
 to March 30th. Other Ducks, Geese and Teal, Jan. 1st to 
 Dec. 31st. Snipe, Plover and other Shore Birds, July 
 15th to Dec. 15th. Hungarian Partridge, Pheasants and 
 Fish Hawks, protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, $10.00; 
 alien, $15.00. 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA 
 
 Open season for FOX, in Aiken, Cherokee, Chester, 
 Chesterfield, Edgefield, Lee, Richland, Union and York 
 Counties, Sept. 1st to Feb. 15th. In these Counties FOX 
 can be hunted with dogs only. In all other Counties, 
 open season throughout the year. ALL OTHER FUR- 
 BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Non-resident, $10.25. 
 
 SOUTH DAKOTA 
 
 Open season for MINK, MUSKRAT, OTTER and BEA- 
 VER, Nov. 15th to March 31st. OTHER FUR- BEARING 
 ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Buck Deer, Nov. 1st to 
 Nov. 30th. Quail, Pheasant and Female Deer are pro- 
 tected throughout the year. Prairie Chicken, Grouse, 
 Snipe, Partridge and Plover, Sept. 10th to Nov. 10th. 
 Ducks, Geese and other Water Fowl, Sept. 10th to 
 April 10th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for birds, $1.00; for deer, 
 $5.00; non-resident, for birds, $15.00; for deer, $25.00; for 
 trapping mink, muskrat, etc., $10.00. 
 
 — 84 — 
 
TENNESSEE 
 
 Open season for all FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, October 
 15th to 31st, November, December and January 1st to 15th. 
 Owner's permission must be obtained to trap on land. 
 Traps must not be set out in open where persons, domes- 
 tic animals or fowls are liable to get into them. Traps set 
 about dens must be placed at least twelve inches in den. 
 All traps must be visited every 36 hours. A severe pen- 
 alty is provided for all violations of these laws. 
 
 Trapping license not required. 
 
 TEXAS 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Buck Deer, Nov. 1st to Dec. 31st. An- 
 telope and Rocky Mountain Sheep are protected through- 
 out the year. Wild Turkey, Dec. 1st to March 31st. Quail 
 and Doves, Nov. 1st to Jan. 31st. Ducks Geese, Snipe, 
 etc., Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, County, $1.75; State, $15.00. 
 
 *UTAH 
 
 MINK, OTTER and BEAVER are protected throughout 
 the year. Open season for ALL OTHER FUR- BEARING 
 ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer (by resident only), 
 Oct. 15th to Nov. 15th. Quail, Aug. 1st to Feb. 1st. Sage 
 Hens, Aug. 1st to Nov. 30th. Mourning Doves, Aug. 1st 
 to Nov. 30th. Ducks, Geese, Brant, Swan and Snipe, Oct. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting and Fishing License: Resident, $1.25; non- 
 resident, $5.00; alien, $100.00. 
 
 *VERMONT 
 
 BEAVER are protected throughout the year. Open 
 season for OTTER, Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. MARTEN, 
 MINK, COON and FISHER, Nov. 1st to April 30th. 
 FOX and SKUNK, Sept. 15th to Oct. 15th. MUSKRAT, 
 Nov. 1st to March 1st. Buck Deer, Nov. 15th to Nov. 
 25th. Rabbits and Hares, Sept. 15th to Feb. 28th. Gray 
 Squirrels, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. Ruffed Grouse and 
 Woodcock, Sept. 15th to Nov. 15th. Quail, English Snipe 
 or Plover, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. Wild Geese, Ducks 
 (except Wood Duck), Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Upland 
 Plover, Wood Duck, Pheasant and English Partridge are 
 protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, 50 cents; non-resident, 
 $10.50. 
 
 * Special County laws. 
 
 — 85 
 
VIRGINIA 
 
 Open season for MINK, MUSKRAT and OTTER in 
 Princess Anne County, Nov. 1st to March 15th. All other 
 Counties, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. FOX, in Jefferson, 
 Magisterial District in Culpepper County, Nov. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. In Patrick County, Sept. 15th to March 15th. All 
 other Counties, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. RACCOON and 
 OPOSSUM, in Patrick County, Oct. 15th to March 15th. 
 All other Counties, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. ALL OTHER 
 FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting- License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, $10.00. 
 
 *WASHINGTON 
 
 BEAVER are protected throughout the year. Open 
 season for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Moose and Antelope (males only), Sept. 
 15th to Oct. 31st. Deer (males only), Quail, Grouse and 
 Prairie Chickens, Oct. 1st to Dec. 31st. Plover, Snipe 
 and other Shore Birds, Oct. 1st to Jan. 31st. Ducks, 
 Geese, etc., Oct. 1st to Jan. 31st. Hungarian Partridge 
 is protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: County — resident, $1.00; non-resi- 
 dent, $5.00; alien, $50.00; State — resident, $5.00; non-resi- 
 dent, $10.00. 
 
 WEST VIRGINIA 
 
 Open season for ALL FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. SKUNK is protected in Counties where 
 protection has been approved by a majority of the voters. 
 Buck Deer, Oct. 15th to Dec. 1st. Squirrel, Sept. 1st to 
 Nov. 30th. Rabbit, open season. Quail, Nov. 1st to Dec. 
 1st. Snipe, Oct. 15th to March 1st. Plover, Sandpipers, 
 Woodcock,- Rail Bird and Reed Bird, July 15th to Dec. 
 20th. Dueks (except Wood Duck), Geese and Brant, Sept. 
 1st to April 20th. Wood Duck, no open season. Wild 
 Turkey, Oct. 15th to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, $15.50. 
 
 *WISCONSIN 
 
 Open season for RACCOON, Oct. 1st to Feb. 1st. 
 Open season for MUSKRAT, Nov. 15th to April 10th. 
 FISHER, MARTEN and MINK, Nov. 15th to March 15th. 
 OTTER, Sept. 15th to Feb. 28th. BEAVER, protected 
 throughout the year. Deer, protected in certain Counties, 
 Nov. 11th to Nov. 30th. Squirrel and Rabbits, Sept. 10th 
 to Jan. 31st. Moose and Fawn Deer, protected throughout 
 the year. Grouse and Prairie Chickens, Sept. 10th to 
 Sept. 30th. Partridge, Plover and Woodcock, Sept. 10th 
 to Nov. 30th. Geese and Brant, Sept. 10th to April 30th. 
 
 'Special County laws. 
 
 — 86 
 
Mudhens and Ducks of all varieties, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 Quail, Pheasant and Swan, no open season. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, $1.00; non-resident, for 
 deer, $25.00; other game, $10.00. 
 
 *WYOMING 
 
 BEAVER, Buffalo, Moose, Quail, Mongolian Pheasant 
 and Swan are protected throughout the year. Open sea- 
 son for ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st 
 to Dec. 31st. Elk, Deer and Mountain Sheep, Sept. 1st to 
 Nov. 30th. Sage Grouse protected in Sheridan and Natrona 
 Counties, Aug. 1st to Sept 30th. All other Grouse, Sept. 
 25th to Nov. 30th. Curlew, Aug. 1st to Sept. 30th. Geese 
 and Ducks, Sept. 1st to April 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for Birds, $1.50; general, 
 $2.50; for one Elk, $17.50 additional; non-resident, general 
 license, $50.00. 
 
 ALBERTA 
 
 Open season for MINK, FISHER and MARTEN, Nov. 1st 
 to March 31st. OTTER and MUSK RAT, Nov. 1st to April 
 30th. BEAVER protected throughout the year. ALL 
 OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Bison or Buffalo and' Elk, no open season. Moose, 
 Caribou and Deer, Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th. Mountain Sheep 
 and Mountain Goats, Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th. Antelope, 
 Grouse, Pheasant, Prairie Chicken and Partridge, Oct. 1st 
 to Oct. 31st. Ducks and Swans, Aug. 23rd to Dec. 31st. 
 Snipe, Plover and other Shore Birds, Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License; Resident, big Game, $2.50; Bird, 
 $1.25; non-resident, general license, $25.00; Bird, $5.00; 
 Trapper's, $10.00. 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 Open season for BEAR, Jan. 1st to July 15th. OTTER, 
 MARTEN and BEAVER, Nov. 1st to March 31st. ALL 
 OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st. to Dec. 31st. 
 Moose, Caribou and Elk (males only), Hares. Sept, 1st to 
 Dec. 31st. Mule Deer, White Tail Deer and Mountain 
 Goat, Sept. 1st to Dec. 15th. Mountain Sheep (Rams 
 only), Sept. 1st to Nov. 15th. Duck of all kinds and Snipe, 
 Grouse, Prairie Chicken, Pheasant, Quail, Geese of all 
 kinds, Black Game, Partridges, Birds living on noxious 
 insects, eggs of protected birds, Cow and Calf Caribou, 
 Moose, Elk or Wapiti, Fawn Deer and Mountain Sheep 
 (Ewe or Lamb), are protected throughout the year. 
 
 Hunting License: Non-resident, general license, $100.00; 
 for Bears in Spring, $25.00; Birds, $50.00. 
 
 Non-resident must have hunting license for trapping. 
 
 *Special County laws. 
 
 — 87 
 
MANITOBA 
 
 Open season for MINK, MARTEN, FISHER and SABLE, 
 Nov. 1st to March 31st. MUSK RAT, Nov. 1st to April 
 30th. OTTER, BEAVER, Buffalo, Females and Fawns of 
 all kind of Deer, Pheasants of all kinds and all game on 
 the four Provincial Game Preserves are protected through- 
 out the year. ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, 
 Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Moose, Deer, Antelope, Elk, Caribou 
 (male only), Dec. 1st to Dec. 15th. Prairie Chicken, 
 Partridge and other Grouse, Oct. 1st to Oct. 20th. Upland 
 Plover, July 1st to Dec. 31st. Other Plover, Quail, Wood- 
 cock, Snipe and Sandpiper, Aug. 1st to Dec. 31st. Wild 
 Ducks, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for Birds, $1.00; for big 
 Game, $2.00; non-resident, $50.00. 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK 
 
 Open season for MINK, MARTEN, OTTER and FISHER, 
 
 Nov. 1st to March 31st. MUSK RAT, March 25th to May 
 15th. BEAVER protected throughout the vear. ALL 
 OTHER FUR- BEARING ANIMALS, open season from 
 Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Deer, protected on Island of Grand 
 Manan, other sections, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. Moose 
 and Caribou (Cows and Calves protected), Sept. 15th to 
 Nov. 30th. Snipe or Woodcock, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. 
 Partridge, Sept. 15th to Nov. 30th. Pheasants and Sea 
 Gulls, no open season. Geese, Brant, Teal, Wood Duck, 
 Black Duck, Sept. 1st to Nov. 30th. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, to hunt Deer, Moose and 
 Caribou, $2.00; to buy, sell or tan furs, $2.00; non-resident, 
 to hunt Deer only, $10.00; Deer, Moose and Caribou, $50.00; 
 to hunt and trap fur-bearing animals, $25.00; to buy, sell 
 or tan furs, $25.00. 
 
 *NOVA SCOTIA 
 
 Open season for MINK, OTTER, FOX, RACCOON and 
 MUSKRAT, Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. MARTEN and BEAVER 
 are protected throughout the year. ALL OTHER FUR- 
 BEARING ANIMALS, Nov. 1st to Feb. 28th. BEAR, 
 WOLF and WILD CAT, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Moose 
 (Cow and Calf), protected Sept. 15th to Nov. 15th. All 
 Moose protected on the Island of Cape Breton. Caribou 
 Sept. 16th to Oct. 15th. Deer, protected until Oct. 1st, 
 1915. Rabbits and Hares, Oct. 1st to Feb. 28th. Pheas- 
 ants, Spruce Hens, Partridge and Black Cock protected at 
 all times. Woodcock, Wilson Snipe, Plover, and Wood 
 Duck, Sept. 1st to Feb. 28th. Teal, Plover, Curlew, Sand- 
 piper, Yellow Leg and Beach Birds, Aug. 15th to Feb. 
 28th. Partridges, Oct. 31st to Nov. 1st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, to hunt Caribou outside 
 his own County, $5.00; non-resident, for small Game, 
 $15.00; for all Game, $30.00. . 
 
 *Special County laws. 
 
*ONTARIO 
 
 Open season for MINK, except in extreme West of 
 Province, Nov. 1st to April 30th. MUSKRAT, except in ex- 
 treme West of Province, Dec. 1st to April 30th. BEAVER, 
 OTTER and Capercailzie are protected throughout the 
 year. ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, open 
 season, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Moose, Caribou and Deer 
 protected in Simcoe County, Nov. 1st to Nov. 15th. Hare, 
 Oct. 1st to Dec. 15th. Wild Turkey, Quail and Squirrels, 
 Nov. 15th to Nov. 30th, Grouse, Pheasant and Partridge, 
 Oct. 15th to Nov. 15th. Ducks, Snipe, Rail, Plover, all 
 Shore Birds and Water Fowl, Sept. 1st to Dec. 15th. 
 Ducks, Snipe, Rail, Plover, all Shore Birds and other 
 Water Fowl in the Southern District of the Province of 
 Ontario, Sept. 15th to Dec. 15th. 
 
 Hunting- License: Resident, to hunt Deer, $2.00; to 
 hunt Moose and Caribou, $5.00; non-resident, for Ducks 
 and small Game, $25.00; for Moose, Deer and Caribou, 
 $50.00; for Trapping, $20.00. 
 
 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND 
 
 Open season for MARTEN, MINK, MUSKRAT and 
 OTTER, Nov. 1st to March 31. ALL OTHER FUR- BEAR- 
 ING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 31st. Hares or Rabbits, 
 Nov. 1st to Jan. 31st. Partridge, Oct. 15th to Nov. 15th 
 in 1911 and every alternate year. Woodcock and Snipe, 
 Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. Turkey, Curlew and Plover, Aug. 
 1st to Dec. 31st. Wild Geese, Sept. 15th to May 10th. 
 Wild Ducks, Aug. 20th to Dec. 31st. Brant, April 20th to 
 Dec. 31st. Shore Birds and Beach Birds near tidal waters, 
 Aug. 20th to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, none required; non-resi- 
 dent, $15.00; for Trapping, $50.00. 
 
 QUEBEC 
 
 Open Seasons — In Zone No. 1: BEAR, Aug. 20th to July 
 1st. MINK, OTTER, MARTEN, Pekan, FOX (except RED 
 or YELLOW FOXES), and RACCOON, Nov. 1st to April 
 1st. ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS at all times. 
 Deer and Moose, Sept. 1st to Jan. 1st, except in Ottawa 
 and Pontiac Counties where the open season is Oct. 1st to 
 Dec. 1st. Caribou, Sept. 1st to Feb. 1st. Woodcock, Snipe, 
 Plover, Curlew, Tattler and Sandpiper, Sept. 1st to Feb. 
 1st. Birch and Swamp Partridge, Sept. 1st to Dec. 15th. 
 White Partridge or Ptarmigan, Nov. 1st to Feb. 1st. 
 Widgeon. Teal and other Wild Ducks (except Shelldrake, 
 Loon and Gull), Sept. 1st to March 1st. 
 
 In Zone No. 2— OTTER, Oct. 15th to April 15th. MUSK- 
 RAT, Nov. 1st to April 1st. BEAVER, Nov. 1st to April 
 1st. Caribou, Sept. 1st to March 1st. Birch and Swamp 
 
 *Special County laws. 
 
 — 89 — 
 
Partridge, Sept. 15th to Feb. 1st. Ptarmigan, Nov. 15th to 
 March 1st. Other game, same as in Zone No. 1. 
 
 Protected — Cow Moose and young of Caribou Moose and 
 Deer, BEAVER in Zone No. 1 and all birds other than 
 game birds, excpet Eagles, Falcons, Hawks, Owls, King- 
 fishers, Crows, Ravens, Waxwings, Shrikes, Jays, Mag- 
 pies, Sparrows and Starlings. 
 
 Licenses: Non-resident, $25.00; non-resident, who is a 
 member of a legally organized gun club domiciled in pro- 
 vince, $10.00. 
 
 SASKATCHEWAN 
 
 Open season for MINK, FISHER and MARTEN, Nov. 
 1st to March 31st. OTTER, Nov. 1st to April 30th. 
 MUSKRAT, Nov. 1st to May 14th. BEAVER, Buffalo, 
 Female and Young Deer, protected throughout the year. 
 ALL OTHER FUR-BEARING ANIMALS, Jan. 1st to Dec. 
 31st. Deer, Caribou, Moose and Elk, Dec. 1st to Dec. 14th. 
 Grouse, Partridge, Pheasant and Prairie Chickens, Oct. 
 1st to Oct. 31st. Ducks, Geese, Swans and Shore Birds, 
 Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st. 
 
 Hunting License: Resident, for Birds, $1.00; for big 
 Game, $2.00; non-resident, for Birds, $25.00; for big Game, 
 $50.00; for six days hunting Birds only, $10.00. 
 
 Zones — The province is divided into two zones, known 
 as No. 1 and No. 2. Zone No. 1 comprises all of the 
 province except that part of the Counties of Chicoutimi 
 and Saquenay, east and north of the Saquenay River. 
 Zone No. 2 comprises the two Counties named, north and 
 east of the River Saquenay. 
 
 — 90 — 
 
GRADING FURS 
 
 This department is the most important in the con- 
 struction of any up-to-date Fur House. A proper knowl- 
 edge of how to grade Furs correctly is not gained in a day 
 or week or month, but requires years of practical experi- 
 ence at the grading table and a close study of the different 
 uses which manufacturers make of the various skins. 
 
 I. Abraham is equipped with the most efficient grading 
 department of any Fur House in the world and not a skin 
 is handled in our house except by an expert and for this 
 reason our returns for shipments we receive are always 
 reliable and correct. We learned early in our career that 
 it did not pay to hire cheap incompetent help in the grad- 
 ing rooms, and we have been repaid for our foresight by 
 having established a world-wide reputation for correct 
 grading that brings us thou ands of dollars' worth of 
 business every year. 
 
 Trappers who have been shipping to us for years will 
 testify that our grading is always consistently liberal and 
 that after a few shipments they can themselves almost 
 judge about what their skins will bring when shipped to 
 I. Abraham. We don't manufacture averages or juggle 
 the grading to suit the market. Our grade is always the 
 same. 
 
 This is also true about our grading up Furs for different 
 manufacturers. Our graders have visited all the lead- 
 ing markets of the world, have been on tours of inspec- 
 tion through the leading manufacturing plants of both 
 North America and Europe, and have made a close study 
 of the Fur business from every angle. They know Fur 
 from hair, understand all about quality, fineness of 
 texture, colors, which kind are most valuable, and what 
 they can best be used for, in fact, they know all there 
 is to know about Furs of All Kinds. 
 
 If you want to know exactly what your Furs are worth, 
 ship to I. Abraham, St. Louis, U. S. A., and we will 
 post you. 
 
 Best Service for Fur Shippers in the world. Prices and 
 grading always right. 
 
 — 91 — 
 
Abraham Trail Scent 
 
 Should always be used when going to- and from your 
 traps. Rub the scent on the bottom of your shoes and 
 also on your gloves when handling your traps (never 
 handle trap with bare hands.) 
 
 Abraham Animal Bait and Trail Scent is almost as 
 important to trappers as the traps themselves, as you 
 cannot catch the wily fur-bearers unless they come to 
 your traps and our Animal Baits and Trail Scent will 
 bring them there. All wild animals have an instinctive 
 fear of man and as they are guided by their sense of 
 smell they can always detect the presence of human 
 beings unless some artificial means is used to destroy 
 the human smell. Abraham Trail Scent is guaranteed 
 to destroy all traces of human smell besides leading 
 animals to your traps from great distances, by following 
 your trail in all your comings and goings when our Trail 
 Scent is rubbed on the soles of your shoes. 
 
 In other words, by the use of Abraham Trail Scent 
 you leave a path that attracts the animal to your traps, 
 whereas if you do not use our Trail Scent you make a 
 trail that scares the cunning wild animals away from the 
 vicinity of your traps. 
 
 You positively cannot afford to be without Abraham 
 Trail Scent if you want to be successful in trapping. 
 
 Price $1.00 Per Bottle 
 
 Guaranteed to be the Best on the Market. 
 — 92 — 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 93 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 94 — 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 95 — 
 
NOV 10 1913 
 
 MEMORANDA 
 
 i^W 4?4s&4&^, 
 
 p J> "2g» 
 
 96 
 
ABRAHAM 
 
 ST. LOUIS, U. S. A. 
 
 The house that has paid the highest 
 prices for furs, year after year, for almost 
 a half century. 
 
 The house that has the greatest num- 
 ber of satisfied shippers in America. 
 
 The house that is the most liberal and 
 fair in all its dealings with trappers. 
 
 The house that wants YOUR furs, and 
 will make every effort to please you. 
 
 The house that you should always 
 ship your furs to if you want to get the 
 best results. 
 
DOUBLE YOUR 
 CATCH 
 
 Abraham Animal Bait 
 
 $L00 Per Can; Six Cans For $5.00 
 
 ASSORTED KINDS 
 
 BEST EVER MADE 
 
 Guaranteed to greatly increase your catch, or 
 money refunded 
 
 OVER 100 SETS FOR A DOLLAR 
 
 Lett Than Ont Cent for a Set 
 
 Used by All Successful Trappers 
 
 Makes All Trappers Successful 
 
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