Qass Book COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT rf-v -« 1 r • O^ SKBTCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. P'R(3M PHOTOGRAPHS BV PARKKR ^ HARRELL. SIFFOLK. BY X EDWARD POLLOCK, I'llilJSIIKK ()!• HISTORICAL AM) INDl'STRIAL GUIDE TO PETERSBIRG, VA. "SKETCH BOOK OF DAWILLE, VA.; ITS .MAMPACTIRES AND COMMERCE," Etc.. Etc. / i'OR rSMOlTH, \.\.: X^'^V /_ i' PRI.\TI:D BV FISKI-: ^ pirdik. iSS6. f'ji^i Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year iSS6, By EDWARD POLLOCK, Portsmouth, Va., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D, C. PHEFAeei The compilation of this little volume has afforded ??ie unmixed pleasure^ inasmnch as it has been the means of laying open befo7'e me a new and intei'e sting page of I7r- ginia' s glorious history, and of gaining for me the acquaint- ance of a thriving, happy and virtuous community. The object of the work is to present to the outside world an accurate sketch of Suffolk as she appears to-day, together ci'ith a brief account of such events as, from time to ti??ie, have assisted in shaping her destiny, and such information 7'elating to her trade and ifidustries as, in my judgment, will prove of ijiterest to the average reader. hi this I have eyideavored throughout to be strictly faithful to facts, many of which have been gleaned from the fles of the "'Suffolk Herald,'" to the editor of ivhich excellent 7iewspaper, as to all other coadjutoi'S who have kindly given me their aid — ichether in the form of counsel, encourage- ment or material support — / now tender my sincere thanks. That the book may accomplish its desired purpose and prove abundantly instrumental in furthering the commercial and social interests of Suffolk and her eiiterprisiyig citizens, is the earnest hope of Their grateful servant, ED WARD POLL OCA', Suffolk, la., June yth, 1886. SCaFFOL^K 1886. DESCRIPTIVE. THE TOWN OF SUFFOLK lies in Nansemond County, Virginia, of wliich it is the County Seat. It enjoys exceptional advantages as a business centre and distrib- uting point, being situated on the main lines of the Seaboard Sc Roanoke and the Norfolk & Western Railroads, and being itself the northern terminus of the Suffolk & Carolina and the Suffolk Lumber Company's narrow gauge lines, both of which j^jcnetrate the rich agricultural and timber lands for which this portion of Eastern Virginia and the adjoining counties in North Carolina have long been famous. Suffolk, moreover, is situated at the head of navigation on the Nansemond River, which is suffi- ciently deep at this point to admit \essels drawing tourtctii feet of water. Until comparatively recent years the chief trade of Suffolk consisted in tar, turpentine, shingles and staves, which were transported by canal from the neighboring Dismal Swamj), and re-shipped at the Suffolk whar\'es to the numerous markets ot the Atlantic coast, at which thev wctc formcrlv in brisk demand SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. At that period of her history, the Town lay principally on the lower land adjoining the river, but after the opening- of the railroads and the great fire of 1837, the business gradually sought a higher level, and its largest stores and handsomest residences are now a mile inland from its original site, and conveniently placed between the depots of the Seaboard & Roanoke and the Norfolk & Western Railroads, As seen from either of these lines, there is very little to indicate to the traveller the size, importance or beauty of the Town. It is, therefore, with no small surprise that the visitor, a few minutes after his arrival, finds himself in the midst of thriving industry and progressive prosperity, as demonstrated by busy streets, handsome stores, graceful churches, fine schools, elegant residences, active mills and factories, and other unmistakable evidences of commercial and social welfare. The population of Suffolk in 1856 was 1,200; in 1883, 1,963, and is now estimated at not less than 3,000. There are six churches, a fine Academy of Music, and four flourishing educational institutions in the Town, besides the public and several private schools. Two regular Steamboat Lines afford daily connec- tion with Norfolk and the Landings on Nansemond River. GEOGRAPHICAL. The County of Nansemond is 34 miles long by an average width of 12 miles. It is bounded on the North by Hampton Roads; on the East by Norfolk County, the Great Dismal Swamp and Lake Drummond, a portion of which is within its limits; on the West by Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties and on the South bv the boundarv line of North Carolina. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. The Town of Suffolk, which occupies a nearly central i)osition in the County, is distant from Portsmouth 17 miles, via the Seaboard & Roanoke Railroad; from Norfolk 23 miles, via the Norfolk (S: Western Railroad; from Petersburg-, 51*XHM«ITXH, VA. i 1 8 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. lieutenants were to be appointed, whose special duty it should be to keep a wary eye and a heavy hand upon the hostile Indians. Sheriffs, serg^eants, bailiffs and other officials were to be elected for the purposes of enforcing the law and administer- ing the local go\'ernment. NANSEMOND COUNTY SET APART. In the year 1639, five years after the establishment of War- rosquyoake as a shire, the latter was subdi^'ided into Counties one of which was named Upper Norfolk. This name was changed m 1645-6, by an act of the Assembly, to Nansimum which subsequently appears under a variety of spellings as Nandsamund, Nanzemund, Nansemum and Nansemund until finally it assumed its present form of Nansemond. Durino- a short penod-from 1657 to i66i-the original name of Upper Norfolk was resumed— possibly with a view to affordino- an opportunity for reconciling the differences of opinion as to^the correct orthography of the less simple appellation. The pop- ulation of the County in 1840 was: white, 4,858; slaves, 4,530 - free colored, 1,407; total, 10,795. In 1883 it had increased to 15-903, of whom 7,728 were white and 8,175 colored 'The value of real estate in the County in the last named )'ear was estimated at $1,647,562.50, and of personal propertv, at $910,- 437-50. There are now seventeen Post-offices in the County. THE DIVIDING LINE. As the Eastern portions of Virginia and Carolina became • gradually appropriated and settled, much and frequent contro- versy between the two local governments had resulted from the ITS PEOPLE AND ITS iRADi: 19 fact that the dividini^' Hue between these two Colonies had nexer been very clearly defined. In order to remedy this e\il, the respective Ciovernors, with the consent of the Crown, appointed a joint commission to sur\ey and delimit a boundar}', which should finally settle the disputed points upon ecjuitable j^rinci- Ml • isT laMscoi'AL rm K ])les. (Jn this Commission Virginia was rei)resented by Col. William Byrd, (of Westover), Richard Fitzwilliam and William Dandrid^e. The Carolina Commi.ssioners were Christoj)her Gale, John Lovewick, Kdward Mosely and William Little. These p^entlemen, with their sur\eyors, a rhaj)lain and a score -^ SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. ^uffoll^ Militaifij flcademij SESSION 1886-1887 Gpficers and Teachers JOSEPH KING, A. M., .' . . . . Pr.^^cipai, I^atiii, ]Sat«iral Science and Belles I^ettres. ROWLAND DOGGETT, A. M., . . , Associate matlieniatics, Chemistry and Kng^lish. MISS LIZZIE J, KING, W. F. I. Krencli, German and F:iocution. CAFIAIN GEORGE T. PARKER, C. S. A. • Drill Master. MRS. ROWLAND DOGGETT. Domestic Department. AXXE^JDIT^JG PHYSICIAI^S, DR. A. W. ELEY, . , DR. W. W. MURRAY Vataloes under the Code of X'ir^inia. A new cliartei- was 24 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. MERRITT BRIGGS, LEE BRITT, Afstoi'iieil at Law 1 xJ Attorney at Law SUFFOLK, VA. SUFFOLK, VA. Correspo7ide?it Hubbeir s Legal Directory. Collections a Specialty. COURTS : Nansemond, Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties, And United States District Court at Norfolk. G. H. CAUSEY, E. E. HOLLAND, Attorney at Law Attoi'iieil at Law COMMONWEALTH'S SUFFOLK, VA. ATrORNEY FOR IfANSE- COURTS : MOND COUNTY, Nansemond, Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties, SUFFOLK, VA. And United States Courts at Norfolk. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 25 Cliartered Nov. 30, 1869. TtieFar'rgBi'^Banl^of Wan^eniond CAPITAL, $20,000. SURPLUS, $30,000 President, JOHN R. COPELAND. Cashier, WM. H. JONES, Jr. DIRlCCrORi*: John R. Coi'Ki.axi), Thos. W. Smith. E. E. Holland. IMI. Kawlk.s, Jamp:.s R. liAKKK, Wm. H. .Tonks. .Ik. Transacts a (Icncml Banking lousiness. Collections made on all accessi- ble points at lowest rates. Business accounts invitcij and interest allowed on time deposits. 26 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. granted to the Town in March, 1872, enlarging its boundaries and vesting additional powers in its Council, who were author- ized to elect annually a Town Sergeant, Clerk, Assessor, Treasurer, Overseer of the Poor and Street Commissioner. This charter was amended in March, 1875, and again in Feb- ruary, 1879, when the boundaries of the Town were revised and enlarged, and various other supplementary Acts were passed, as occasion required, looking to the furtherance of Suf- folk's commercial and social interests and the happiness and prosperity of her people. THE BURNING OF SUFFOLK BY THE BRmSH. In his "Historical Collections of Virginia," Mr. Howe thus mentions this calamity : " In the year 1779, Sir Henry Clinton projected a plan to humble the pride and destroy-the resources of Virginia. He sent a powerful fleet, which anchored in Hampton Roads, landed a heavy force under Gen. Matthews, which took possession of Portsmouth and Norfolk, and committed extensive devastations. It was on this expedition. May 13th, that Suffolk was burnt, the account of which, here given, is from Girar-din. ' ' ' No sooner was intelligence received of the arrival of the British in Hampton Roads, than the Militia of Nansemond County were called to arms. Suffolk was the place of general rendez-vous. About two hundred men assembled there, with- such weapons as they could procure from their own homes. Few of them had muskets, and still fewer ammunition. This, however, they obtained from Captain Bright, who commanded the letter- of- marque, the brig Mars. Bright also furnished. ITS PEOl'LE AND ITS TRADi:. 27 two pieces of ordnance, which were immediately mounted upon the carriages of carts. The whole of this little army, headed by Col. Willis Riddick, proceeded about eight miles on the Norfolk Road, and, on the evening- of the nth of May, encamped in a large uncultixated field, in front of Capt. James Murdaugh's house. ^li^iy^^-^rt-'^ •sMiTirs hlock;," thi-: prophrtv oi-' col. thos. \v. smi rii. " 'Before this nioxement, three well-mounted young Virgin- ians, Josiah I^iddick, Thomas (iranbury and Thomas Brittle, had been disjxitched to reconnoitre the eneniv. They were surprised and made i)risoners just below Hall's Mills, in Nor- folk County and conxeyed to New V<^rk. where they remained for eighteen months in a state of capti\itv. Thus did the party 28 _ SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. M. F. Lloyd, BOTTLER OF THE CELEBRATED ROBERT PORTNER BREWING CO.'S. VIENNA. CABINET AND TIVOLI BEER. AGENT FOR Cartel''^ (JiiigEi' i|Ie, ^oda and ^aii^aparilla. DEALER IN FINE FAMILY GROCERIES, LIQUORS, TOBACCO AND CIGARS, SUFFOLK, VA. s» ■ — ■ . . — — ■ RiDDiCK & Baker, DEALERS IN Stoves, Tinware, Crockery, AND HOUSE FURNISHING GOODS. ROOFING, GUTTERING AND SPOUTING DONE PROMPTLY, AND BY FIRST-CLASS WORKMEN. SUFFOLiK, VA. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 29 HALL & HOLT Furniture Sealers d Undertaler!! SUFFOLK, VA. SPECIAL ATTENTION GIVEN TO UNDERTAKING fN ALL ITS BRANCHES, Orders by mail or telegraph promptly attended to. 30 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. under Col. Riddick' continue in entire ignorance of the num- bers and motions of the enemy. ' ' ' To a tavern, about a mile below the encampment of the militia, Captains King and Davis had repaired for the night. In front of this tavern was a lane, with draw-bars at its extremity. These were soon heard to rattle; alarmed at this noise, King and Davis seized their muskets and flew to the door. King leaped out and fired to give the alarm. The British platoon discharged and shot Davis through the heart. King, well acquainted with the country, soon reached the Virginian camp and informed his comrades of approaching hostility. The vio- lence of the wind, blowing in an unfavorable direction, had prevented them from hearing the report even of the British musketry, discharged so near them. Col. Willis Riddick, not suspecting the approach of the foe, had retired to his own house. The command, therefore, devolved upon Colonel Edward Riddick. The militia retraced their steps to Suffolk, which thev reached before the dawn. Two officers, mounted on fleet horses, were then dispatched to ascertain the situation and force of the enemy. Four miles below Suffolk they halted, and immediately after sunrise, in the entrance of a lane about one-quarter of a mile long, had a full view of the advancing foe, and distinctly counted 600 infantry. They rode back in full speed, and, upon calling the militia to arms, about one hun- dred only obeyed the call. The others had dispersed. A retreat became una\'oidable — every man was admonished to take care of himself Most of the inhabitants had already left their homes. Few could save their effects. Such as delayed their flight in attempting to secure their property, were taken ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. .V prisoners. Ruthless devastation attended the British. Thex- set fire to the town and nearly the whole was eonsumed. Sev- eral hundred barrels of tar, pitch, turpentine and rum had been deposited on lots contiguous to the wharves. The heads of the barrels being' knocked out, and their contents, which flowed in a commingled mass, catching the blaze, descended to the ri\er, like torrents of burnin": Ia\a. As the wind blew from LAKI-: KII.P.V. Sll()\\l.\(. I:\(1IXF. Ilol SI-. ()! .\i;\\ WATI-.R WOkKS. the wharves with great \h)lence, these substances, with diffi- culty soluble with water, raj)idly fl(Xited to the oj)posite shore in a splendid state of conflagration, which they communicated to the thick and decaying herbage of an e.\tensi\'c marsh, the growth of the preceding vear. This iniinciisi' sheet of tire, added to the vast columns of undulating flames which ascended fr(.)m the burning houses ol the town — the explosion, at 32 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. R. L. BREWER. R. I>. BREWER, JR. R. L. BREWER & SON, /-iucccssors to R. L. BREWER, Dealers in Fine Watches and Rich Jewelry WASHINGTON SQUARE, SUFFOLK, VA. iriNE REPAIJRING PROMPTLY EXECUTED. A. S. ELEY, SUFFOLK, VA. DEAl-ER IN Drugs, Paints, Oils, Glass, Brushes, Fertilizers, Plows, Farm Tools and Hardware of all kinds. BUILDING MATERIALS A SPECIALTY. Window Saslies, Blinds, Doors, Brackets, mouldings, &c. IvO'WHSX KICHIGHTS-QUICK XBLAI^iSIT. W. B. FERGUSON, In Meats, Flour, Fish, Hay, Grain Butter Cheese, &c. All Goods Guaranteed of Quality Represented. SUFFOLK, VA. Representing New York, Philadelphia, Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati. EXCHANGE HOTEL, E. S. RIDDICK, Cor. Kiddick and Washington Streets, - - SUPPOLK, VA. TERMS, $2 PER DAY. MOST CENTRALLY LOCATED. LARGE SAMPLE ROOM FOR COMMERCIAL TRAVELERS. CHOICE CIGARS AND CIGARETTES CAN BE FOUND IN THE OFFICE. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 33 GEO. W. NURNEY, SALE, EXCHANGE & LiYERY Stables KIT.BV STKKBT, SUFFOLK^ VA. 34 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. intervals of the gunpowder In the magazines — the consequent projection through the air of large pieces of ignited timber, which flew, like meteors, to an astonishng distance — all con- tributed to form a collective scene of horror and sublimity such as could not be viewed without emotions not to be described/ " INCIDENT OF 1812. In connection with the above it may be appropriate to relate here how the good people of the Town were once terri- bly agitated by what turned out to be a very simple and harm- less event. _, During the war with England in 1812, great uneasiness was felt by the inhabitants of Suflblk lest the British should send small boats up the river from their ships and burn the Town again. In the midst of their fears and suspense, and while an old itinerant preacher named Theophilus Gates was holding a revival meeting at the old church, the alarm came one night that the enemy's barges were coming up the stream and would soon reach the wharves. A panic seized the whole community and Brother Gates's meeting was brought to an abrupt conclusion. The people fled in all directions and gen- eral consternation prevailed. In a few hours, however, it was ascertained to be a false alarm, based upon the fact that a few oyster boats were bringing up a supply of bivalves to the popular establishment of Jack Walker, a colored restaurateur, the fame of whose excellent oysters and ginger cakes had secured for him a lucrative business throughout the surround- ing country. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 35 "BENN'S CHURCH." This venerable structure, although, strictly speaking, it does not belong to this town or county, since the separation of the latter from Isle of Wight, is nevertheless so closely allied to us by tradition and so endeared to us by its ancient associa- tions with our ancestors, that it has been selected as a fitting illustration for our Sketch Book, being one of the most hal- lowed monuments in Virginia, and still standing within the limits of the original shire of which Nansemond formed a ])or- tion prior to 1 639. Mr. Howe thus describes it in his " Historical Collections of Virginia:" (pub. i MRS. R. S. ELAIVI'S FIRST CLASS BOARDING HOUSE GOOD ACCOMMODATIONS AT REASONABLE RATES MAIN ST., near BUSINESS CENTRE, S\iffoll5., Ya.. 38 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. '' Within an hour's ride from Smithfield, near the road to Suffolk, in the depths of the forest stands an ancient church in ruins. It is ahke an object of interest from its secluded situa- tion and its great antiquity. We have before us a communica- tion from a highly respectable gentleman of this vicinity, which gives strong evidence that it was built in the reign of -Charles I, between the years of 1630 and 1635. Tradition, too, states that it was the second church erected in Virginia. The brick, lime and timber were imported from England. The timber is English oak and was framed before shipment. The whole structure was built in the most substantial manner; and, even now, the wood-work, where not exposed to rain, is perfectly sound, and the mortar sufficiently hard to strike fire when in collision with steel. The structure is of brick, has a lofty tower, and is in good preservation. Its walls are overrun with a delicate net-work of vines. "In its day it was a splendid edifice. One window, of about 25 feet in height, was composed of painted glass, repre- senting scriptural subjects. It was probably abandoned about the time of the American Revolution, when the Episcopal Church, for a time, became nearly extinct in Virginia. Within the last twenty-five years it has been temporarily occupied by a sect called O'Kellyites. There is a project, which may be carried into effect, to repair it. If successful, generations yet unborn will meet within its time-hallowed walls, where, even now, more than two centuries have elapsed since their fore- fathers first raised the hymn of praise to the Living God." ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 39 EARLY SUFFOLK ENTERPRISE. The following extracts from a ' ' Narrative of a Voyage to the West Indias, for the Purpose of Attempting the Establish- ment of an Ice Market in the Island of Jamaica," written at Kingston, Jamaica, October 17th, 1801, by Dr. Robert H. Fisher, a resident of Suffolk, will no doubt be read with inter- est and sympathy by the enterprising Suffolkites of to-day. The valuable MS has kindly been placed at the disposal of the author by Dr. Fisher's grandnephew and sole surviving rela- tive, Mr. Joseph P. Webb, of this Town: "A large ice-house was built at Suffolk, in Virginia, by Mr. Thomas Swepson, Dr. Richard H. Bradford and myself in 1800, and filled with ice in the ensuing winter. In 1801 a con- siderable quantity of ice was sent therefrom and sold by retail at Noriblk, and, the business being perfectly novel in that part of the country, it excited much conversation, in the course of which it was often suggested that if a cargo of that article could be sent to the West Indias, it would meet with a \'ery welcome recej^tion and ready sale. My own reflections on the subject led me to much more extensive speculations. I thought that if, in some of the large towns in the West Indias, a maga- zine could be so constructed as to preserve ice for some length of time, and kept constantly supplied from the northern parts of the United States, so as to form a regular and permanent market, it could not fail of becoming an imjiortant and a lucra- tive branch of business. My imagination led me to the forma- tion of a i)]an of an association, which, after fixing at one point, and obtaining exclusive legal privileges, might extend to other |)oints, and nltimatelv establish a now and oxtonsne 40 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. E. TATTERS SEflERAL COflTRAGTOR FOR ALL KINDS OF BRICK WORK ^ AND MANUFACTURER OF BRICKS SUFFOLK, VA. (Associated with GEO. 0. MOSER, ARCHITECT, Norfolk, Va.) Orders from a distance solicited, and prompt attention given thereto. PLiNS, SPECIFICATIONS AND ESTIMATES furnished on application. (See Engravings of James R. Baker's Store and E. Tatterson's Residence on pages 13 and 43 ; Geo. C. Moser, Architect; E. Tatterson, Contractor.) ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 41 H. T. ARTMAN. T. W. ARTMAN. H. T. ARTMAN & SON, MANUFACTURERS OF AND DEALERS IN Carts, Harness, &c. Also a full stock of IRON AND CARRIAGE MATERIAL Always on hand at the Lowest Prices. Correspondence Soli- cited. Address, H. T. ARTMAN S SON, SUFFOLK, VA. 42 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. branch of trade between the United States and the whole of the West India Islands. >i< ^ >K ^i< ^ ' ' Had I possessed funds of my own competent to the car- rying of the enterprise into execution, I should have embarked in it on my own bottom, without any hesitation; but, my finances being low, I proposed to form a Company who should raise the necessary sum by subscription. Propositions were made to a number of my friends in Suffolk and its vicinity, who were pleased, more probably by the novelty than the plausibility of the scheme; and a sum which was judged ade- quate to lay the first foundation of the establishment was imme- diately subscribed. The subscribers having incorporated themselves under the firm of " The Jamaica Ice Company," a general meeting was held on the ist day of August, 1801, and the following compact of association entered into and signed by the Company." ^ ^ ^l< ^< :^ Here follows a copy of the constitution which bears the following signatures: Robert Jordan, Thos. Swepson, Mathias Jones, Robert H. Fisher, W. Fisher, W. Jordan, Edward Allen, Joseph Hattersley, Richard H. Bradford, Richard W. Byrd, Rich. Yarbrough, John C. Cohoon, John M. Cowling, James Riddick, Wm. M. Poole, (Sec'y). John Barber, D. Southall. Teste: Elisha L. Ballard, John Norfleet. Many of these names are still found among the most highly esteemed of Suffolk's present inhabitants. Robert H. Fisher, the writer of the narrative, was appointed the agent and general manager of the Company, with instructions to proceed immediately to Jamaica and commence the business of the concern. "Having received the first requisition of $2,000, I left ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 43 Suffolk on the 4th day of August and arrived at Norfolk the same day. My friend Harrison Almand had engaged a passage for me on board a ship bound to Kingston, and had procured for me a number of letters of introduction to persons residing at that place and Port Royal. I had been advised to lay out the money I had in sterling bills of exchange, and I accord- ingly purchased one for ^437.10.0, at 124 pr. cent., drawn in Ri:SlDi:\CE OF 1-:. TATl l.US().\, KSO. my favour by Conway Whittle on John Kirwan t<: Sons, of London. " Every arrangement being made for my enterprise, I left Norfolk early in the morning of the 7th of August, 1801, and proceeded in a pilot boat to Hampton Roads, where I joined the ship in which I had engaged a passage, and which, as soon as I got on board, weighed anchor and j:>ut to sea." * * 44 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. R. E. JONES. W. H. JONES, JR. Cashier Farmers Bank. OMEg \ BROTHER, u Wholesale and Ketail Dealers in SHIP STUFF, Ajricultuiial Lime, \ \ tnu-T[^$ &c.. &c. AGENTS OF THE OLD DOMINION STEAMSHIP COMPANY. SUFFOLK, VA. 46 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. After a most interesting account of the voyage, which occupied nearly five weeks, the narrator describes his arrival at Kingston, and thus proceeds: ' ' On the following day I delivered several of my intro- ductory letters, but the reception I met with from the gentle- men to whom they were addressed was not only cool but repul- sive. I was stared at with a countenance which I thought indicated astonishment, mixed with contempt and pity. One of them burst out a-laughing in my face, and it was some time before he could compose himself sufficiently to hear what I had to say in vindication of my scheme. Suspecting they might think I was in want of pecuniary aid, I took care to inform them that I was in possession of funds fully adequate to carry my plan into execution; but although I used every argument I could think of to convince them of both the practicability and utility of my scheme, it was discouraged by every individual to whom I made it known. Among the variety of objections that were made to it I shall mention the following only: — That ice was an article which they had never known the want of, had hitherto done very well without and could do as well with- out hereafter; that it was, at best, a bare luxury, and would produce an expense without affording an adequate benefit; that in a climate so hot as theirs its use would probably be produc- tive of effects generally pernicious and often fatal; that at present there was an unusual scarcity of money; ^ * * that silver having lately been in great demand in England, where it was wanted for the East India trade, almost all the money had been drained out of the West Indias, in conse- quence of which trade had suffered a general depression; ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 47 almost every one was in debt without possessing the means of making" payment; that lawsuits and distraints were common l)eyond any former period; and that if ice was so great a lux- ury as I represented it to be, that very circumstance was the greatest of all the objections to its introduction, since many persons would be enticed to appropriate that money to the purchase of it which ought to be appropriated to the payment of their debts." '^ ^ * * * This reception naturally discouraged the trader and would- be benefactor, who, however, with true Suffolk pluck, was determined to exhaust every possible chance of success before acknowledging himself beaten and abandoning his enterprise. He advertised his scheme in two newspapers, and asked intend- ing patrons to enter their names in books pro\'ided for the purpose, and state the amount of ice they would require per day or week. But several days elapsed and no response had been made, which settled the question so far as the establish- ment of the ice trade in Jamaica was concerned, and decided its projector to return home with all convenient speed. But here another difficulty arose. He had expended all his cash and found it impossible to immediately convert his sterling bill of exchange into currency, being a stranger in a strange land. Owing to the drain of silver, before alluded to, bills of this kind could hardly be disposed of at all, except when packets were about to sail for I'^ngland; and it hap]jened unfortunately that this dilemma occurred shortly after the September boat had sailed, and it would be nearly a month before another left. The narrator determined therefore to await events with such patience as he could control, and to employ the tedious interim 48 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. WILBUR J. KILBY, Attorney at Law AND Notary Public, SUFFOLK, VA. ROBERT R.PRENTIS, Attioriqefl at Law SUFFOLK, VA. COURTS : Nansemond, Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties, And United States Courts at Norfolk. JOHN B. PINNER, ATTOpy AND dOUM^ELLOI^ATLAW SUFFOLK, VA. COURTS : Nansemond, Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties. RICH'D H. RAWLES, Attorney at Law SUFFOLK, VA. COURTS : Nansemond, Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties, and United States District Court at Norfolk, Va. ITS PEOPLK AND ITS TRADE. 49 KistabliHlied 1873. Suffolk Herald .5 ■^ NEWSPAPER AND JOB PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT. J. E. BOOKER, Editor and Publisher. SUFFOLK, VA. 50 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. in exploring the island and in obser\dng the peculiarities of its inhabitants. The result of tliis wise resolve is to be seen in, the elaborate and deeply scientific disquisitians to which the remainder of the interesting MS is chiefly devoted^ and which is well worthy of publication in a much more dignified form than this modest volume offers. It need only be added here that the enterprising ' ' former resident ' ' met with numerous adventures and misadventures, first in Jamaica and afterwards at Havana, including forcible detention for several weeks at the latter place, until December 26th, 1801, when he re-embarked on a homeward-bound schooner aiid landed at Norfolk in. due course. LA FAYETTE'S VISIT. The most notable event of the year 1826 was the visit of the Marquis de La Fayette. In consequence of the conspicu- ous part he had played in the history of Virginia during the Revolution, the Marquis had always been an object of affec- tionate interest to its people, and the reception accorded ' ' the hero af two worlds " was a perfect ovation. To liim,, perhaps, more than to any other human being, were the American Col- onies indebted far their success in securing independence. He was descended from an ancient and noble family of France, and was married at the age of 16 to a lady still yaunger than him- self He was not quite 20 years old when he received the rank of Major General in the LInited States Ai-my. His services to this country, however, are matters of natio-nal history,, and need not be recounted here. In 1824 — 47 yeaiis after the date of his first landing onAmerican soil as the friend and ally of the struggling Colonies — Congress in\nted liim to make aiiotker ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 51 \isit to the United States. In obedience to this wish he embarked with his son and secretary for New York, wh'ere he landed on August 15th of that year. He visited, in succession, each of the 24 States and all the principal cities. In 1826 he accepted an in\'itation to visit Suffolk, and his arrival here was attended with all the " pomp and circumstance" of a triuni])hal entry. All the vehicles in the neighborhood were in demand, and many of the most prominent citizens turned out to meet him at old Tony Pugh's, 9 miles below the town. The Columbians, under Capt. Francis D. Charlton, received him at the head of Main Street, while the people followed the pro- cession, en massL\ to the Castle Inn. Here the noble guest was asked how he wished to recei\'e the Company, and replied promj^tly that he would like to shake every man by the hand. After this kindly wish had been gratified, Captain John C. Cohoon, who was Sheriff of the County and master of the ceremonies on this occasion, presented the citizens by name to the Marquis, who shook hands with all and expressed his ])leasure at the cordiality of the reception accorded him. That niglit there was high festivity in Suffolk, at the Court House and the hotels, and on the following morning the Marquis left for Murfree.sboro, N. C, accompanied b\' the l)lessings and hearty good wishes of our ])eople. LAKH DRl'MMOND. This body of water, the j)opular resort of sportsmen from all ])arts of the country, lies within tlic limits of the Dismal Swamp, and extends a short distance into Nansemond Count\ , aV)ont ten miles from Suffolk. Its borrlers abound in dec-r 52 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. Cliarterecl 1881. Suffolk Female Institute FOR YOUNG LADIES AND LITTLE GIRLS, Board and Literary I'uition, $l6o pep year. The Charter authorizes the Faculty to confer all the regular Collegiate Degrees. The Seventeenth Annual Session opens SEPTEMBER 8th, 1886, and closes second Wednesday in June, 1887. Students received at any time, but are ad\'ised to enter at the beginning of a term. Suffolk is one of the healthiest and most accessible Towns in Virginia. The Corps of Teachers is efficient and experienced. The home training, moral and attractive. Fine advantages in Music, Art and Languages, at moderate rates. For Catalogue apply to — MISSES FINNEY, See Illustration on pcigeSi) Bqx 1 46, SUFFOLK, VA. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 53 G. & C. MERRIAM & CO., Publishers, Springfield, Mass. 54 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. bears, wild turkeys, lynxes and other objects of the hunter's delight. The Lake, says tradition, was first named Drum- mond's Pond, after the discoverer, who, wandering through the Swamp in search of game, came upon this sheet of water, and, by following its margin, managed to find his way into the open country, while his two comrades, less fortunate than he, were lost and never again heard of During his visit to Norfolk in 1804, Erin's sweetest poet, Tom Moore, of melodious memory, wrote the following lines, which, although familiar to most readers, will bear repetition in Suffolk's Sketch Book, by reason of their own intrinsic beauty as well as of their intimate association with this neigh- borhood. A BALLAD. The Lake of the Dismal Swamp. Written at Norfolk:, in Virginia "They tell of a young man who lost his mind upon .the death of a girl he loved, and who, suddenly disappearing from his friends, was never afterwards heard of. As he had frequently said in his ravings that the girl was not dead, but gone to the Dismal Swamp, it is supposed he had wandered into that dreary wilderness and had died of hunger, or been lost in some of its dreadful morasses." — Anon. " La poesie a ses monstres comme la nature " — — D'Alembf.rt. " They made her a grave too cold and damp For a soul so warm and true ; And .she's gone to the Lake of the Dismal Swamp, Where, all night long, by a fire-fly lamp. She paddles her white canoe. " And her fire-fly lamp I soon shall see, And her paddle I soon shall hear ; Long and loving our life shall be. And I'll hide the maid in a cypress-tree, When the footstep of Death is near '. " ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 55 Away to the Dismal Swamp he. speeds— His path was rugged and sore, Through tangled juniper, beds of reeds. Through many a fen where the serpent feeds. And man never trod before ! And when on the earth he sank to sleep, If -slumber Tjis eyelids knew. He lay where the deadly vine doth weep Its venomous tear and nightly steep The flesh with blistering dew! And near him the she-wolf stirr'd the brake. And the copper-snake breathed in his ear, Till he starting cried, from his dream awake, " Oh ! when shall I see the dusky Lake, And the white canoe of my dear ? " He saw the Lake, and a meteor hriglit Quick o'er its surface play'd— " Welcome," he said, " my dear one's light ! '" And the dim shore echoed for many a night The name of the death-cold maid! Till he holiow'd a boat of the birchen l)ark. Which carried him off from shore ; Far be foUow'd the meteor spark. The wind was high and the clouds were dark. And the boat rcturn'd no more ! I'.ut oft, from the Indian hunter's iami>. This lover and maid so true Are seen at the hour of midnight damp. To ( ri.ss the Lake by a fire-fly lamp, And paddle tiieir white canoe. From "time immemorial" this secluded and romantic pool has been a lavorite resort for summer excursionists. In the "olden days" the tri]) from Suffolk was usually made by water, and the ])lace of rcndez-vous and embarkation was the canal bridge, al>out a couple of miles down the Norfolk Road. Here the ]->leasuro seekers would take j^assa.oc oji board a loni^ 56 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. VALUABLE REAL ESTATE Those who want good Building Lots, nicely located in the Town of SutTolk, on easy terms, will find it to their interest to call on or correspond with O". T. INrXJR.IVrES^S'. Several Good Houses and Lots for sale in Suffolk, and se\'eral small farms in the county for sale. Apply to J. T. NURNEY, Suffolk, Va. WHOLESALE OYSTER PACKERS. J. T. NURNEY & CO. SUFFOLK, VA. Will supply the trade with best Nansemond River Oysters. Orders solicited and satisfaction guaranteed, THE guffoll^ BvicX ]\^ariufact:uping COIVIPANY Are manufacturing a first-class Building Brick. Send in vour orders and they will receive prompt attention. Address : J. T. NURNEY, Superintendent, Sufiblk, \'a. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 57 Cliartered 1872. SUFFOLK COLLEGIATE INSTITUTE SUFFOLK, VA. Preparatory. Practical or Finishing — IN — dla^^ic^, IVjathematic^, ^cience^ and the Fine i^r^t^ ADEQUATE FACULTY. Discipline. — Self-acting- under Parental and Christian Direction. Cliarackr is primary, Conduct is resultant. Domes'Ik; ARKANCiEMENTs. — Economical, substantial, home-like. Terms. — Reasonable. Both sexes admitted. .Session begins middle of .September and entls the follow- ing June. PV)r Catalogues and other information, address PROF. P J. KERNODLE, A. M., Principal. $8 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. shingle-lighter, covered with canvas, resembling an extended wagon. This boat would carry 20 or 30 passengers very con- veniently, and was propelled by two negro men walking along the bank and pushing with poles at each end. With good weather these excursions were delightful, and at the present time xdsitors come from all parts of the country, during the summer and fall, to enjoy the tishing, shooting and hunting which Lake Drummond and its vicinity afford in perfection. The Lake is nearly round and about twenty miles in circumference. There are of course many theories as to its origin, the most plausible of which, perhaps, is that during some extensi\'e fire in the Swamp, this great basin was burned out, and thus prepared to become a permanent reservoir for the overflow water of the surrounding pjarsh. NAT TURNER'S INSURRECTION. In the year 1.831 occurred one of those startling incidents which are calculated to terrify the stoutest hearts and to leave an indelible impression upon the minds and nerves of a whole community. In the neighbouring County of Southampton had been brooding, unsuspected, a most insidious and power- ' ful enemy to society, which suddenly revealed its existence under circumstances of unparalleled horror and atrocity. Under cover of night, and without a note of warning, the negro insurrection, under Nat Turner, which was intended to involve the whole slave population of the South, broke out near the village of Jerusalem. Turner inaugurated his fiendish work by the butchery of his master's family and the wdiite residents of the adjoining plantations. The news of this horrible deed ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 59 spread like wild-lire from end to end of Virginia, and the dis- tricts in which the presence of a prep(3nderating" slave po])ula- tion would seem to justify the fears of midnight massacre were thrown into a state of almost helpless panic. In Suffolk the most intense excitement prevailed, and the people hastily pre- pared to secure themsehes, and to render such succor as could be spared to the scattered white j^opulation of the rural dis- Sri-T'OLK II, MALI-: INSriTlTI'. Sec pai^v .SJ. tricts, in the event of a general uprising on the ])art of the slaves. But fortunately the insurgents were neither well armed nor well disciplined, and the insurrection was suddenly crushed whj^ one of llie miscreants was killed with a charge of scjuirrel- shot, by a planter whose premises were attacked. A few weeks later. Nat Turner, the desperate author of the riot, was cap- tured, and in due course tried, conxicted and hanoed. 6o SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. JOHN ATTOI^WEY AND dOUWgELLOpTLAW SUFFOLK. VA. Does a General Law Prac- tice in the Counties of Nan- semond, Isle of Wight and Southampton. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO COLLECTIONS. Nansemond Seminary A HOME SCHOOL FOl YouiigLadie^^^Littlel^ii'I^ CATALOGIES ON AI'IMilCATION. PRINCIPAL, SUFFOLK, VA. Fulgham & Gohoon, 1)EA1,K1!S IX hk Sks, Eats, CAPS, Gents' Furnishing Goods, &c. SUFFOLK, VA. See Engraviii.^; of our Stoie on page 27. JNO. H. WRIGHT. mi. J. WRIGHT. Jno.H. Wrights Son, Ssii'llmraiicsii^ts, SUFFOLK, VA. ^\'iil give pi'om})t personal at- tention to all Inisiness entrusted to them, and solicit patronage. Losses promptly settled. Repre- sent responsible Life and Fire Insurance Coni]ianies. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 6l D. C. IIARRKLL. W. 11. .TONKS, JR. K. K. HOLLAND. D. C. HARRELL & CO. -ALVNTFACTIRERS OF BUILDING BRICKS SUFFOLK, VA. With the Finest Clay and the Latest Improved Machinery, we are prepared to furnish Bricks to the Trade, in Large or Small Quantities, at the VERY LOWEST FIGURP:S. ' CORRESPONDKXCK SoLIC'TTEI), R. W. BAKER & CO. Fui^ijitiur'B Dealer!? and Undei^tal^ei^? SUFFOLK, VA. See Engraving of our storo on page 21, WM. ELEY & BRO. UNDER THE JiOOTllE ACADEMY OF MUSIC, IS TlIK ri.ACK 'lO lUV Dp\; GgqcIs, Dpgss Goods, f^otions Ladies' and Gent's Furnishing' Goods, Washington Square, Suffolk, Va. 62 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. EXTRACTS FROM THE DIARY OF JOS. PRENTIS. 1837— 1849. THE GREAT FIRE OF 1837. The following account of this memorable event is copied from the diary of the late Joseph Prentis, Esq. , now in the pos- session of his grandnephew, Mr. Joseph Prentis Webb, to whose kindness the author and reader are alike indebted for this and other interesting extracts: [It may be here mentioned that Mr. Joseph Prentis was for 13 years the Clerk of the Superior and County Courts of this Circuit and County, in which position he was succeeded, in 1851, by his son, Judge Peter B. Prentis, the present efficient incumbent.] " Saturday, the 3rd of June, 1837, a fire broke out in Suf- folk, at the cabinet shop of Edward Arnold, a little after meridian. The wind blew very high from S.W., and before 6 o'clock P. M. the most valuable and thickly settled portion of the lower part of the Town, on both §ides of the street, w^as laid in ashes. The Court House and Jail were burnt; the Clerk's Office, lately erected, fire-proof, escaped. About 130 houses were burnt. I was among the unfortunate, losing my dwelling, store-house, kitchen, smoke-house and wood-house. The first named three houses are insured in the Mutual Assur- ance Society of Virginia. Mr. and Mrs. McClenney carried us to their house and treated us as if we had been near rela- tions. We remained under their hospitable and friendly roof nearly a month before we could get a house to go into. I can never foroet them ; the debt we owe them is heavier than we ITS PI-:()Pf.f-; AXf) ITS TRADi;. 6.> shall ever be able to pay. My children must never forget these dear, kind friends. Tlie kindness of the citizens and country people merits, and will recei\'e, a grateful remem- brance. On 27th began to collect our articles and put them into Mr. David Jordan's mansion, who most humanely and generously permitted us to take it — we being destitute of a ki;sii)i:.\L i: 01 or. i-. \v. sku.f.s. home — and he put himself to great inconvenience and went into a small house. My thanks are due him, which he has- and I hope not one of my fiunily will ever forget him." FATAL RAILR(Mn ACCIDF.NTS. Under date of Friday, August nth, 1837, the diarv reads' " Between 9 and 10 A, M. the ])assenger train of cars, with a party of 150 returning up the road,, came in contact, nenr the- 64 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. -WT. ID. 'yyooiD, Dentist, OFFICE OVER POST OFFICE, - - - SUFFOLK, VA. OFFICE HOURS : FROM 8 A. M. TO 5 P. M. Will goto Franklin the third Monday in each month, and remain all the week. NANSEMONO RIVER LINE. The Steamer TAHOMA, S. S. Hardisun, Master, LEAVES NORFOLK every Tuesday, Thursciay and Saturday, at 11 A. M.. for Suffolk and all Landings on Nanseraond River; RETURNING}, LEAVES SUFFOLK every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 10 A. M., and will make an extra trip on Saturday during the trucking season. Receives freights for all points on Suffolk A: Carolina and Suffolk Lum- ber Co.'s Railroads. N. G. NORFLEET, Agt., Suffolk, Va. J. W. PERRY Si CO.,Agts.,Norfolk,Va. BALLARD & SMITH, DEALERS IX Dry Goods, Notions, Shoes, Mats and Carpets Washington Square, Suffolk, Va. DE. ED. D. PHILLIPS, Managing Pharmacist, Main, next door to Main & Washington Sts., SUFFOLK, VA. Keeps always on hand a full assortment of fresh Drugs and all of the new remedies, besides a full supply of the following proprietary articles, viz: Phillips' Old Dominion Tonic, Phillips' Carbolic Tooth Wash, Phillips' Pellicura, Phillips' Comp. Tonic Pills, Phillip.s' Kidney Tonic, Phillips' Tooth Ache Drops, Phillips' Vegetable Liver Pills, and many others ; also, a select lot of choice perfumeries and other Drug sundries. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 65 L. E. WHALRY. W. II. KIDEK. WHALEY & RIDER, DKAI.HKS IX Hail, (Jrain, Mill Feed, Fto FERTILIZERS, &C. Have constantly on hand a very large stock of Ilay, Grain, &c., from New York and the West. Orders Solicited and Proini)t Attention given to Correspond- ence and Shipments. RETAIL WAREHOUSE At intersection of the Norfolk & Western and the Suffolk Lum- l»er Co.'s Railroads. Wholesale Warehouse at Foot of Main Street S\iffoliL, Va- 66 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. bridge at Richard F. Goodwin's, by which three young- ladies, viz: Miss Eley, of Isle of Wight, Miss Roberts, of do., and Miss McClennev, of Nansemond, were instantly killed. Some 140 others were so badly hurt as to be compelled to remain at Mr. Goodwin's for many days after the accident. Too much praise cannot be awarded to Mr. and Mrs. Goodwin for their kindness in administering to the comforts of the distressed. Their house was rendered a perfect hospital. The gentlemen and ladies of Suffolk were prompt in lending their aid and repaired to the scene of destruction and continued their exer- tions till the patients were removed to their homes. ' ' On the night of the same day two decent, sober, re- spectable citizens, Richard Oliver and Woodward, return- ing at night walking on the railroad in a hard rain, were overtaken by a locomotive and run over without being sensi- ble that they were in any danger. No blame whatever is to be attributed to them. The poor men died, Woodward an hour after he was brought to the R. R. office in Suffolk, and Oliver lingered till the following Monday about noon, when he died,, having undergone the most excruciating pains. In the first case the Inquest who sat on the dead bodies found Etheredge, the train captain, and Williams, the engineer, guilty of wilful and gross negligence; and that the parties came to their death by this cause. Process was immediately issued by the Coroner against the persons charged. They escaped and are going at large out of Nansemond County." "On the 9th of June, 1838, received a commission from Judge Baker appointing me Clerk of the Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery pro tem. for Nansemond. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 67 " On the iith resigned my commission as Surveyor and Inspector of tlie Port of Suffolk, which office I ha\e held for upwards of 27 years. After my resii^nation I accepted the State appointment and proceeded to the execution of the office. " 14th. Elected Clerk of the County Court of Nanse- mond." "December ist, 1848. Elijah Johnson, F. N., was huni; in the inside of the enclosure between the Court House and Jail, in pursuance of his conviction and sentence pronounced at the last Superior Court by Judge Baker, for the murder of Jemima Turlington, a poor old woman of 80. The attendance was \'ery large. Arrangements so skillfully made for the exe- cution that the poor guilty creature expired apparently with little pain. Col. Hugh H. Kelly, the acting Sheriff, an officer who never shrinks from duty, performed the painful and heart- rending duty." "January 29th, 1849. On this day 43 years I obtained my license to j)ractice the law in the Superior and Interior Courts of the Commonwealth. Removed from Williamsburg to this place (Suffolk), arrived here on the 3d July, 1805, where I have continued to reside. On this day there is living- only one white male, Mr. Arthur Smith, who was a house- keeper and head of a family when I came here." THE FIRST PRINTIN(; PRESS. " The S/iJfo/k Inir/iii^(')in)\ a newsi)aper i)ublished in Sui- folk,- John R. Kilby, Editor, Wm. R. McLean, |)rinter, was this morning — lanuar\- 4th, 1849 — delivered to subscribers. Its j)rincij)les are Whig. The first ])rinting ])ress which was e\er 68 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. BOTETOURT COUNTY, VA. IMMEDIATELY ON THE LINE OF THE NORFOLK & WESTERN RAILROAD, ON SUMMIT OF BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAINS, 41 MILES WEST OE LYNCHBURG, H. OPEN FOR VISITORS From 1st June to 15th October THE CELEBRATED Dyspepsia ^ater. PHILIP F. BROWN, Proprietor. See opposite page fur view of Blue Ridge Springs froai Wild Cat Knob) ITS P1-:01M.E AND ITS TRADE. 69 70 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. established in this town. It is dated on Tuesday, the 2nd inst., to be issued twice a week, at $2.50 per ann." "March 6th, 1849. President's Inaugural Message, deliv- ered in Washington at 12 o'clock on Mondtiy, was received and printed in this place at 3 o'clock next day, lor which this new press is entitled to credit. "UP-HILL WORK." As has already been stated, a large share of the bir :I- ness of Suffolk, prior to 1837, ^^'^s carried on in the lower portion of the Town. The Dismal Swamp Land Company had a large depot there and controlled an immense trade in juniper and cypre5s shingles and lumber. Other large mercantile establishments had their offices and warehouses in the same quarter, which also contained many of the most valuable and attractive residences. After the conflagration of 1837, which laid waste this desirable locality and reduced its buildings to a pile of smouldering ruins, many families moved up to the hill and there built their houses. Since that time the tendencv of the Town generally has been to recede from its original position and to spread out in all directions from the head of Main street. . * RAILROAD vs. TURNPIKE. The merchants in the olden time were in the habit of making semi-annual trips to lay in their supplies for the spring and fall trade. Some went to Philadelphia, some to New York; and the journey was quite an undertaking, for those were the davs before railroads. Sometimes se\'eral merchants ITS PEOPLE ANM) ITS TRADE. 7I would form a party and ^o tog^ether on board a coasting- vessel, laden with shingles. Others would go by stage coach to Portsmouth, where they could take the steamboat to Balti- more; thence up Elk Ri\er to Frenchtown, where another stage coach was taken to New-Castle, and from there to Phila- delphia by steamboat. The trip occupied three days and three nights — rather too suggestive of Jonah's travelling experiences. Now we can breakfast in Suffolk and suj) in New York the same day. \'erily the times have changed, and the new era is a vast impro\ement upon its predecessor. RELIGIOUS GROWTH. As late as 1820 there was only one church in Suffolk — a small frame building on the hill, without ceiling or plastering. This was known as the Methodist Meeting House, and was used by the circuit preachers and such other ministers as might chance to remain here over night in j^assing through the country. It was customary on such occasions to send round a hand bell with a notice that preaching might be expected at early candle-light. There were few professors of religion in Suffolk at that period, and no regular public worship. To-day there are no less than six well supported churches in the Town. and as many flourishing Sunday sch(jols. THE shinc;le trade. In "the good old days" this was (juite an extcnsixe branch of industry in this district and was mainly conducted by the Dismal Swamp Land Company. Half a dozen large ves- sels were constantly engaged in carrying shingles from Suflolk SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. JOSEPH P. WEBB, DEALER IN Drfug?, paints? Oil?, Building Material? &c., &c. WASHINGTON SQUARE, SUFFOLK, VA. Mr. Webb is a native of Suffolk, and except when absent at school and during- the war, has resided here continuously all his life. From 1862 to 1865 he served in the 13th Virginia Cavalry with the Army of Northern Virginia. He commenced business immediately after the war in a small way, beginning with drugs alone. But other lines of goods were, from time to time, added, until now he is well and favorably known to the country trade in Virginia and North Carolina, in the Counties along the lines of the Seaboard & Roanoke, Norfolk & Western, Suffolk & Carolina and Suffolk Lumber Company's Railroads, as an extensive jobber ol" Drugs, Paints, Oils, Sash, Doors, Blinds, Window Glass, Fancy Goods, Books, Stationery, Tobacco, Cigars, Snuff, Lamp Goods, Toi- let and Laundry Soaps, Lye, Starch, Spices and other "Gro- cers' Drugs." Li 1870 he built a handsome brick store and warehouses on the south side of Washington Square, which he occupied until burnt out in the great fire of 7th June, 1885. He is now rebuilding a large brick three-story establishment on the old site (see Engraving on page 121) and in the meantime his headquarters are on the opposite side of the street He enjoys exceptional facilities for the conduct of a large business which is increasing e\'ery year. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 73 hi H k k a »- ff FISKE & PURDIE, cclOSoo HIGH STREET, PORTSMOUTH, w k k k k k k k PRINTERS AND BOOKBINDERS ki FOUNDED 1840. KII.I. KACII^IXIHS, OOOD WORK, I.OAV I*KICKS. FINE COLOR PRINTING, PAPER RULING. ^ _ 'i o « k k k k k k 74 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. to the Northern markets. Hundreds of hands were employed in the Swamp getting them ready, carrying them to the side of the canal and boating them to the landing on Nansemond River a few miles below Suffolk. This trade kept a good deal of ready money in circulation among our people in those days, as the boatmen and the '* Swampers" procured their rations, tobacco, whiskey and articles of clothing from the Suffolk merchants, while the agent, the inspectors and the farmers who hired out their surplus hands to the Company also left a fair proportion of their earnings in the Suffolk stores. Besides the Dismal Swamp Land Company, others were largely interested in the Shingle Trade, w^iich flourished here for many years — some drawing their supplies from Horse Pool Swamp, in North Carolina. At first cypress shingles were regarded as inferior, but in later years their excellence was appreciated and they acquired a higher value than even juniper. WOODEN MONEY. Half a century ago the Lumber Trade was also a very prominent factor in Suffolk's commercial importance. Some eight or ten large houses were engaged in the business. For several weeks before Christmas, carts loaded with lumber and staves would pour into town in great numbers, and the streets would be worked up into a quagmire or a dust-bed, according to the prevailing state of the weather. On Saturdays, especi- ally, the carts crowded round the store doors in such numbers that the thoroughfares were almost impassable. The merchants and their clerks were up and waiting on their customers by dawn, filling orders all day long which taxed their utmost ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 75 capacity, and g-enerally receiving payment in shingles, staves, or lumber. Trade of this kind was peculiarly tedious and annoying about Christmas time when a load worth probably $2 would be bartered for sugar, coffee, flour, cheese, spices, tobacco, powder, shot, gun-flints, and a dozen other articles — the balance always being adjusted with liquor. Nearly all the merchants in those days were large dealers in apple-brandy and rum. Distilled liquor was bought at 30 cents and retailed at half a dollar per gallon, and was thus put within the reach of all classes. The Temperance movement had not then been inaugurated and " Local Option" was an unknown quantity. Nearly every shingle cart was supplied with its liquor-jug, and it seemed to be everybody's business to encourage this branch of trade. Gradually, however, it began to fall oft' till most of the store-keepers abandoned, it altogether. PORK AND BACON. In the early history oi' the Town a considerable trade was carried on in these products. The circumjacent country abounded in splendid ' ' hog-ranges, ' ' and the farmers fattened large quantities of j)ork at \ery little cost. The bacon thus obtained was handled by the merchants for their home-trade or for shii)ment to other markets, and formed quite an important adjunct to their general business. TAR AND TURPENTINE. Suffolk was famous at one time as a great shii)i)ing i)oint for these staples, large cjuantities of which were brought to the Town and bartered for merchandise. FLverv barrel was 76 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. A. S. DARDEN. K.Stal>lislied in 1866. R. S. ELEY. (AT THK OLD STAND) DEALERS IX ALL KINDS OF DRY GOODS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, BOOTS, SHOES, HATS, CAPS AND READY-MJIDE CLOTHING CARPETS, OIL CLOTHS AND MATS, HARDWARE, FARMING IMPLEM-ENTS AND BUILDING MATERIAL, SPECIALTIES. Sole Agents for Strong & Carroirs Fine Shoes for Gentlemen ; Clement, Weil & Ball's Fine Shoes for Ladies, and the celebrated Bay State Shoes (every pair warranted.) Send for quotations. See Engraving of New Store on page 12L SUKFOLK.VA. JOHN F. PINNER. .TORN B. PINNER. JOHN F. & JOHN B. PINNER, To parties desiring to locate in Suffolk we offer for sale Building Lots in the best localities in town on most reasonable terms. For information concerning real estate in this section correspond or apply at office. DAUGHTREY & HINES Fancy Groceries, Cigars, Tobaccos and Liquors, Cor. Riddick and Washiiifytou Sts., ■ SUFFOLK, VA. A full line of above goods always on hand. Specialties : Pure Butter, Fine Grades of Flours, Coffees, and Fancy Condiments. Try the Cele- brated Red Star Flour. Full line of Pure Wines and Liquors of every kind for medicinal and cooking purposes. Free delivery to all parts of the town and depots. Polite and attentive Salesmen. Orders solicited. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 11 s o cr ^3 ^ m :» S ^ 3 cr X o CO ^ ^ 3 ^ s ^HB ^ ^ M 3 i_4 2> ■ 2 " ^ = ^ 5 ^ 3 o S m f?« ^ 3- ^' N O 2 crq a, ?0 CO -1 HI CD sold in VI uitable for rows, whet rest agent ,, Manufac so m X © ft a 33 ^ » i :: " = S CD-I «-»-< r; m W M z 12 -1 3 ■'^ — 1 R m CO X >« X o oo ^ m = 2 g ^ cm =0 ■'■ ^ P.^ CO ii -. r- 00 1 7 X o 30 2-^5 ^ c ««• P 3 • 2 2: :i :» P ^ " 3 "TT ■-+ z ^ ^ o ^^ ^ ?r s ^ ^ ^ ^ o o z c ^ w§ — W >• 2 O 1^ ^ W2 ■^ 02 o *T* ■ ? CO 00 78 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. branded by the Government Inspector according to its quality. This business has now dwindled away almost entirely, GENERAL PRODUCE. The merchants also bought cotton by the bale or in the seed ; they traded in corn, peas, flax-seed, beeswax and tallow, and, in return, sold almost everything needed by the farmers in the way of dry goods, clothing and groceries. But business, in those days, was generally conducted in a very rough-and- ready sort of a way. The stores were small, poorly lighted, comfortless and unattractive ' ' shanties, ' ' by comparison to which their successors of to-day are magnificent palaces. Indeed it is not too much to say that many of Suffolk's modern business houses and residences would do credit to any town or city on the Continent. RAILROAD FACILITIES. The year 1850 is a memorable one in Suffolk's history, for it witnessed the opening of her first railroad communication with the outer world. On the 9th of November the Ports- mouth and Suffolk section of the Seaboard & Roanoke Rail- road was completed, and the occasion was celebrated by a grand excursion, which initiated many of our citizens, and those of the neighboring towns, into the mysteries, pleasures and discomforts of the "Iron Road." A year later the line was extended as far as Weldon, N. C, and shortly afterwards the Norfolk & Petersburg Railroad, also passing through Suf- folk, was begun, but was not completed till 1859. Both these roads suffered heavily during the Civil War, but were repaired ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 79 and put into g'ood w orkino- order shortly after the restoration of peace. At Weldon, N. C. , the Seaboard cS: Roanoke Raih'oad connects with the Raleigh &. (iaston Railroad, leading to Raleigh, the Capital City of North Carolina, where it joins the Raleigh & Augusta Road, leading to Hamlet, and there inter- sects the Carolina Central Railroad, from Wilmington to Char- lotte, at which point we find roads running to Asheville, Columbia, Augusta and other Railroad Centres, whence direct communication is maintained with New Orleans and all points South and South-West. At Portsmouth- — -only 17 miles distant from Suffolk — connec- tion is made with the Chesapeake (S: Ohio, the New York, Phila- delphia & Norfolk and the Norfolk Southern Railroads, with their branches leading to the North, West and South. Here also we are within an hour's run, by rail or steamboat, from the popular watering places. Old Point, Ocean View, Virginia Beach and Newport's News, not to mention the charming scenery of Chesapeake Bay and the James, Potomac and York Rivers. At Petersburg the Norfolk & Petersburg Railroad con- nected with the Southside Road, the western terminus of which was at Lynchburg, where it joined the Virginia S: Ten- nessee Railroad, thus forming a through line from Norfolk to Bristol, a distance of 404 miles. lliese three corporations were subsequently consolidated, and became the Atlantic, Mis- si.ssippi & Ohio (now the Norfolk 8c Western) Railroad Com- pany. A glance at the map will show that this great system, with its connections, whose name is Legion, tra\erses the 8o SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. ■THES BRAMBLETON FLORAL COMPANY E. V. WHITE. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. Weddings, Funerals, Dinner Parties, and all Public Occasions promptly sup- plied with Choice Flowers, made up in beautiful designs as ordered. 10,000 Clioice RoBes. Flowers or Plants delivered to the Ex- press Company securely packed. Or- ders by mail or telephone No. 208. Orders left at our City Office, 138 Main St. (E. T. Thomas' Confectionery Store), will be telephoned and have prompt attention. H .C. PERCY, BENJ. REYNOLDS, Treusri rer. Super inteyiclent. Special attention to Out-of-Town Orders. CIIAKLES SCHROEDER V. WHITE & CO. RAILROAD, STEAMBOAT, SAW AND GRIST MILL MACHINISTS' AND BLACKSMITHS' TOOLSMLSUPPLIES Manilla, Bolt and Tarred Rope, LUBRICATING, ILLUMINATING AND PAINT OILS, Gum and Leather Belting, Lace Leather, Packing, LANTERNS. CHAINS (ALL SIZES), EYE BOLTS AND DOGS FOR RAFTING, NORFOLK, VA. ITS ri'.OPLl-: AND lis TRADK. 8i THE HODGDON ,.*^ SPENCER CO. IMPORTERS OF hnim Suaiio, Eainii, Clismicals, h AMMONIATED FERTILIZERS PERUVIAN GUANO MIXTURE Xavo 1I>. I»acUiijfe for 25 CeiitH. NORFOLK, VA. 82 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. States of Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama and Missis- sippi, and is intersected at several points by other trunk lines leading to all the Western Cities. At Petersburg, too, the Norfolk & Western Railroad connects closely with the Rich- mond and Petersburg and the Petersburg and Weldon sections of the great "Atlantic Coast Line" system, which aftbrds direct access to all important points North and South. The Atlantic & Danville Railroad, which has its deep-water termi- nus at Claremont, on James River, and will shortly be com- pleted to Dan\qlle, where it will connect with the Danville & New River Railroad, is crossed by the Norfolk & Western Road at Waverly, in the neighboring county of Surry. It is probable that this line will be extended, before long, to Nor- folk, passing through Suffolk, and thus opening up to our trade a new and rich section of country. Suffolk is also the northern terminus of two local Rail- roads — the Suffolk Lumber Company's and the Suffolk & Carolina. Both these roads are of recent construction, but their beneficial influence upon the trade and commercial importance of our Town is already clearly pronounced. They penetrate Nansemond County in a southerly direction, and tap the rich timber and agricultural district beyond the borders of North Carolina. It will thus be seen that in the matter of accessibility, Suf- folk enjoys abundant advantages, being connected by numerous avenues of transportation with all the Central, Southern and North Eastern States. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 83 "THE LATE UNPLEASANTNESS." In the War l)etween the States the Town of Suffolk, although subjected to severe and protracted suffering', was not destined to take any conspicuous part. Of course her gallant sons were among the first to enlist for the defence of their State and the Southern Confederacy, but their distinguished services were mostly rendered at a distance from their own homes. In April, 1S61, the "Suffolk Continentals" were enrolled as Com])any B, in the i6th Virginia Regiment. Com- pany A, of the same Regiment, Company I, of the 41st Vir- ginia Infantry, and Company F, of the 9th Virginia Infantry, were also organized in Nansemond County, and produced many a hero and filled many an honored grave during the four dark years of the cruel, unnatural struggle. Rut the tide of active strife seemed to a\'oid this pleasant spot, as though impressed with its own unfitness, and the non-combatant citi- zens were mercifully spared those scenes of anguish and horror that came within the terrible experience of many Virginia towns. Suffolk, however, although her immediate share in the w^arfare was of a passive rather than a \iolent character, was. nevertheless, a camj), if not a garrison, during the whole tour years' term of hostilities. Prior to the evacuation. ol Norft^lk, which occurred on May loth, 1862, the Town was occupied by a strong Confederate force, who retired beyond the Black - water when the news of Norfolk's fall was received. On Mon- day, May 1 2th, 1S62, Col. Dodge's New York Cavalry rode into the Town and took formal possession. The Mayor. Mr. Benjamin Riddick, waited upon Col. Dcjdge at the old Wash- ington Hotel, and was a-sured of protection lor all • peaci-ablf 84 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. citizens, under certain restrictions. After a few hours' delay, Col. Dodge — probably suspecting the proximity of a dreaded "rebel" troop — left the Town, after establishing a system of pickets, and took up his quarters at Jericho, a mile and a half to the eastward, where he was shortly reinforced by General Mansfield's command, which poured into the town and sur- rounding country by the Norfolk, Portsmouth and Smithfield Roads. The troops remained encamped on the outskirts of Suffolk for a year, to the number of about 50,000. THE SIEGE OF SUFFOLK. Towards the middle of April, 1863; while Gen. Peck was in command of the Federal forces in this neighborhood, and the great Confederate hero and patriot. General Lee, was pressing- forward toward Chancellors ville, General Longstreet was sent here, with a large body of troops, for the double purpose of obtaining provisions from Eastern North Carolina and of holding the enemy in check, until the important issues pending near Fredericksburg had been decided. The manoeuvre was emi- nently successful in both respects, and it was during the pro- gress of this feint that what is known as the ' ' Siege of Suf- folk " occurred. On the 12th of April, Longstreet arrived and menaced the Town, into which had poured the whole Federal Army. It was no part of his design to engage the enemy in battle, so he merely hovered about in a threatening attitude till his end was accomplished, and retreated on the 4th of May. This was the only demonstration of any consequence that occurred here during the war, and resulted in no regular engagement. A few skirmishes were fought, the most important ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 85 of which took place at Proxiclence Church, live miles to the North-west of Suffolk, where five or six men were killed. The Confederate flag- — so dear to the hearts of her imprisoned people — was ne\'er seen in Suffolk after the day on which the enemy made their first appearance in the Town — May 12th, 1862. The citizens were completely cut off from the outer world from that date until after Lee's surrender at Appomattox. During the " siege " it was estimated that as many as 60,000 Federal soldiers were in the Town for three weeks at a time. The residents were for the most part kept close prisoners in their homes. They were allowed few privileges and no means of acquiring information. No article of merchandise, how- ever insignificant, was procurable at the stores without an order from the Provost Marshal. This state of things continued for three weary years. Towards the last there was a good deal of suffering. Many poor people, having neither money nor the means of earning it, were reduced to a condition of great destitution, which their benevolent but scarcely more fortunate neighbors exerted themsehes to ameliorate. As the war drew near its close, the Federal troops withdrew from the immediate vicinity of the Town and entrenched themselves about three miles distant, at Bernard's Mill, on the Norfolk Road. Another encamj)ment was made on the Portsmouth Road, at a place called Getty's Station, about 10 or 12 miles from Sufiblk. From these points frequent foraging raids were made and the people generally, in town and country, were subjected to numerous and varied annoyances ; but they bore up bravely under their grievous Inirden, and were even enabled, at times, to view the gloomy situation with some degree of resignation. 86 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. if not cheerfulness. If Suffolk's sons did gallant service during this trying period, her fair daughters displayed equal heroism in their patient endurance of all the ills and privations incident to their distressing situation, while to both are due the tribute of unqualified praise. ''PEACE, GENTLE PEACE." vSufTolk's experience, when hostilities were finally suspended and the surviving heroes of the ' ' Lost Cause ' ' were at last permitted to return home and resume their peaceful occupa- tions, was common to most of the towns and cities of Eastern Virginia. For some time little was done beyond ' ' reckoning up the cost." Every man and woman who had not lost a rela- tive was at least minus a friend; property of all kinds had depre- ciated in value ; the once fertile plain had become a barren wilderness ; the money issued by the Confederate States had become waste paper and gold was at a ruinous premium ; pro- visions were scarce and dear ; credit was annihilated and finan- cial stability meant nothing; in short the whole Southern Country was ruined, for the time being. But there were still some Suffolk people left — enough to start a little world with — and they of the right kind. Courage, fortitude, industry and perseverance were their leading characteristics, then, as now% and various commercial enterprises, some of which have sur- vived and prospered to this day, were inaugurated before the echoes of the conqueror's retiring footsteps had fairly died away. Trade of all kinds was speedily revived and the neglected soil was once more "with verdure clad." The Town of Suffolk, and the many advantages she offered, soon attracted such ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. .87 favorable attention that she more than doubled her population in the decade between the years 1870 and 1880. She has had her lull share of misfortune to contend with— -panics, fires, "hard times," and the like — -but it is not too much to say that to-day she is as happy and prosperous as any town of her size in the Land of- the Sunny South, if not in the whole of the United States. Faithful statistics and official figures in sup})ort of this statement will he found scattered through the pages of this little \olume, which is, of itself, irrefutable e\'idence of the liberal, enterprising and public-spirited character of the People of Suffolk. Pope possibly had this town before his mental vision — although the record of his visit here has not been pre- served — when he wrote the following pointed couplet: Reason's whole pleasure, all the joys of sense, Lie in three words — health, peace antl conipetetice. TRANSPORTATION LINKS. In 1867, when the tumult of the terrible cixll strife had hardly subsided, and Virginia lay crushed in spirit and bank- rupt in resources, the Old Dominion Steamshij) Compan\' was established in succession to the old New \'ork iS: \'irgini;v Steamship Co., and has, since that date, gradually increased in wealth and favor until it has become one of the most substan- tial and influential corporations in the country. Its magnificent fleet of ocean steamers ply between New York and Richmond, calling at Norfolk and City Point, while llu- fine steamboats of the Comi)any are to be met with on all the j)rincij)al ri\ers of Virginia and North Carolina. '{"his enterprising Compan\- 8S SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. Hstablislied in 1875. PARKER & HARRELL, Photographers and Dealers in Picture Frames PICTURE FRAME MOULDINGS, CHROMOS, BRACKETS, HAT RACKS, BOOKSHELVES, &.c. WASHINGTON SQUARE, SUFFOLKJfA. CAUSEY & JORDAN, DEALERS IN DRY GOODS, NOTIONS, CLOTHING HATS CAPS, BOOTS, SHOES AND GENERAL MERCHANDISE, SUFFOLK, VA. blVERY, 8aLE and BXCHANGE RIDDICK STREET, SUFFOLK, VA. A good ussortQieiit of Western Horses and Mules alwnys on hand. L. M. TEBO, BUILDER /" CONTRACTOR SUFFOLK, VA. PLANS AND ESTIMATES FURNISHED ON APPLICATION. ORDERS SOLICITED AND SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. ITS ri-:<)iM,i-: and ns tradI'; 89 s. R. iDuisnsr, OJBEico: IVI^lxa. Street, S»XJ3B*T'OXjI5:, TT-A.- FIRE, LIFE. ACCIDENT AND MARINE INSURANCE Effected for any ainomit in the following English. (Jciman and American Companies: Liverpool and Lfnuloii ami ("ilobc, of Enj^. I Ajiiiciiilural, of New Ndik. Phrjenix. of ICuKlaiid, (".ermaiiia, of New Voik, Ciiiiimcrcial-riiioii. of I'lij^lanci. ' l-'ire Assoriatioii, of I'liiladclpiiia, Hainliurn-lirc-iiK-n, of (".ti inauy, I'dersburj^ Sa\ iii>;s and Insiirantc t"om'\ , New York liuierwrilcrs' Agency, IMkliiIx, of Brooklyn, N. V., Fidelity and Casualty Co., of New. Nork, J Virginia State, of Richnioiid, \a. \Vashin;jton Life, of New York. .1// LussrH J'roiiiiitlii Pfiiil at 1111/ Oftlcr. Capital and Assets Represented, $150,000,000. imANCH Ol'lMCICS, roRTS.MOlTH ANT) KKANJCLIN, \A. Reinenibrr it is always best to iiisiirc yonr i)roi)erly at a Regular Insurarue ( XViee, wbeff iIk- JMlerLSt of iIk- insnrt'd will bi- propiily lan-d for in v\<.-\\\. of loss. Fair Rates, First-Class Companies and Strict Attention to Business is my Motto. 90 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. runs a daily boat for passengers and freight between Norfolk and Suffolk, calling at all landings on Nansemond River, From Norfolk the distance to New York is 285 miles, and the steamers of this line generally make the trip in twenty-four hours, with great regularity. The passenger accommodations of the Old Dominion Steamships are of the most luxurious character, and during the Company's career of nineteen years not a single life entrusted to its care has been lost. The Nansemond River Line also dispatches a passenger and freight steamboat every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Suffolk to Norfolk, returning to Suffolk every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and calling at all the intermediate landings. This line was established a year ago and carries freights from all points on the Suffolk & Carolina and the Suf- folk Lumber Company's Railroads. The Baltimore Steam Packet Company (Old Bay Line) owns and operates what have justly been called the ' ' Palace Steamers of Chesapeake Bay" — a truly magnificent line of steamers, adapted to a high rate of speed, beautiful m form, substantial in construction and furnished sumptuously. With travellers this line has long' been one of the most popular in the country, as it affords a most delightful break in the mono- tony of a long railroad journey between the North and South, without loss of time or other inconvenience. The Bay Line Steamers connect at Portsmouth with the Seaboard & Roanoke trains, thus offering another direct avenue and outlet for Suffolk. It will be seen, therefore, that in the matter of transportation facilities, the Town and Port of Suffolk is unsurpassed by any other of its size and importance in any part of the country. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 91 THP: SUFFOLK & CAROLINA RAILROAD CO. This Company was organized, under the laws of Virginia and North CaroHna. In 1S84, as follows : President, Chauncey Brooks ; Secretary and Treasurer, W. H. Hosley ; Directors, Chauncey Brooks, W. H. Bosley, W. N. Camp, Chas. F. Pitt, Jr., John S. (iitlings a'nd S. P. Ryland, Jr. The import- ance of this line, as a feeder to Suffolk's trade, can hardly be RIVER FRONT I'ROl'KRTV Ol" SrHl-'OLK AM) CARol.lXA R. R. CO. estimated. It opens uj) an entirely new country, through which pnxluce was formerly hauled 25 or 30 miles to the point of shipment. It extends now from Suffolk, its northern termi- nus, to Sunbury, North Carolina, a distance <^f 22 miles, whence it is contemplated to extend the road to some conve- nient point on the Chowan River, 12 miles further, where direct commmiication will be opcMied, by water, to all the ii\crs and 92 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. sounds of North Carolina, and thence to the whole world. The purpose of the Company is to connect Nansemond River, at Suffolk, with Chowan River and Albemarle Sound, and con- tracts are now^ being made with a view to completing the work by the coming fall. Over this road there is now^ a daily pas- senger and freight ser\ace. There are already three large lum- ber mills situated on the line, and others are in course of con- •struction. Lumbermen would acquire incalculable advantages by locating their mills at the Chowan River terminus, and shipping their produce over this road to Suffolk, by which means they would avoid the risk ot breaking-up which always attends log-rafts crossing the open waters of Albemarle Sound, and the still greater risk of losing their logs by sinking, after they have been lying for any length of time in the water awaiting the making up of the raft, and being afterwards towed a long distance to .the saw-mill. They would also find it cheaper to send their sawn lumber this way than to tow it to any other distributing point to be manufactured. The soil of Southern Nansemond and of Gates, Chowan and Perquimans Counties, through all of which the Road runs, are extremely fertile and peculiarly adapted to the growth of early " trucks," being 8 to lo days in advance of the seaboard counties. Enterprising "truckers," therefore, who located along this line, where the land is very cheap, could certainly do well, as the Company would naturally give them every advantage and encouragement. The completion of this road will also afford extraordinary facilities for the development of the important fish interest on the Chowan Ri\'er, which is distant from Suffolk only 34 miles. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 93 Owing" to the nunieroLis antl excellent a\ enues of transporta- tion, b)- land and water, centring at Suffolk, fish caught in the Chowan River at 3 P. M. could be put on the markets in Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York the following morning in time for breakfast. The journey from Chowan River to Suffolk will occupy an hour and a half, instead of 8 or 10 hours now necessary to accomj^lish it by the quickest available route. Passengers leaving Chowan Ri\er and Albemarle Sound, via the. Suffolk & Carolina Railroad, will be able to go to Norfolk and return the same day, with several hours to spare for the transaction of business. Since reaching Sunbury, N. C, this road has carried large quantities of cotton and other freight, luid its full capacity was taxed this spring in handling lime. . phosphates and other fertilizers. The Company possesses ample capital for its present requirements, and also for the prosecution of its contemplated extensions and the general development of its \ast property, which includes, at its Suffolk terminus, a mile of splendid water-front on Nansemond River, running back a considerable distance on Shingle Creek. This is by far the best and most accessible water-frontage in this neighborhood, and persons desiring to establish their business in Suffolk should by all means get a location on the Company's valuable j)roperty. In fact, the opening of the Suffolk 8c Carolina Railroad has revealed enormous possibilities for industrial enterprise at this point, and it is very unlikely that such favorable opportunities will fail t(^ attract capital to our Town. 94 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA, THE LAST GREAT FIRE. Besides innumerable individual losses, of more or less con- seqwence, sustained by the people of Suffolk through the ravages of the fiery element, the devoted town has been visited on three occasions by wholesale and disastrous conflagrations, each of which has almost entirely destroyed the principal busi- ness quarter and created temporary consternation among all classes of the community. The first of these was the malicious and cruel work of the British Invaders in 1779 ; the second occurred in 1837, and was the result of accident ; the third and last, also accidental, happened just a year ago, and its traces are not yet completely obliterated or removed. On the 7th of June, 1885, at 11 o'clock P. M., fire was discovered in a wooden shed, used as a store-room by Messrs. Hall & Holt, Furniture Dealers, on the South side of Washington Square. The alarm was promptly given, but before anything could be done, the wind, which was blowing stiffly from the South, had carried the flames to the ware-room of Messrs. Darden & Eley, which was soon burning fiercely. The engine was powerless to arrest the progress of the devouring fire — fanned and encour- aged by its sister element, the wind — and it was soon evident that the business portion of Suffolk was doomed. The next victim was the handsome dry goods store of Mr. James R. Baker, on the North side of the Square. Then followed a scene which beggars description. Men rushed into their places of business, bent on saving such valuables as they could find, and often remaining there until driven out by the scorching- flames. The fire spread rapidly East and West, and in what seemed but a few minutes e\'ery house on the Square had dis- ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 95 appeared, except the store of Mr. A. S. Eley, the Exchange Hotel and the store of Mr. John F. Pinner, on the corner of Riddick street. At exactly midnight the tlames mounted the cupola of the Suffolk Hotel, in which stood the town clock, and the gilded hands and figures, now brilliantly illuminated, showed the hour to the excited crowd. Figuratively, as well WHERE THI', IIRK WAS STOPPED ON MAIX STRI:i:T. as literally, it was the " n(jon of night " for })oor braxe little Suffolk, and no man could foresee the extent of the threatened calamitw I Ia\ ing reached the corner of Washington Scjuare and Main Street, the fire took a northerly course down ihc last named thoroughfare, swallowing up all the houses in its path till it reached the residence of Mr. A. S, Eley, who here made a 96 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. most determined and systematic fight, which eventually proved successful in arresting the progress of the conflagration. Meantime the other wing of the fire had spread Westward up Kilby Street, devouring in its course the Suffolk Hotel, the old Washington Hotel and the splendid stables and residence of Mr. George W. Nurney. Besides the heavy pecuniary loss to the Town and the people, all business operations were for some time necessarily suspended, for the area wherein the com- mercial heart of Suffolk had been wont to beat was now a heap of smouldering ruins, upon which the stricken community could but gaze with grief and dismay. But it is at such a time as this, that men show to the world of what metal they are made, and Suffolk took this opportunity of adding new lustre to her glorious record, for it was soon apparent that her plucky people were not to be beaten — even by the most cruel and destructive of all known forces. Before the flames had been fairly extinguished, every vacant store and shed in the town had been engaged, and even the parlors of many resi- dences had been converted into the temporary abodes of trade. Rebuilding was begun almost immediately, and has been pur- sued actively until the present time — handsome brick struc- tures in many cases taking the place of antiquated wooden ones, and the already handsome stores being replaced by others still more imposing. In short, it may safely be stated in the case of Suffolk, as in similar ones which could be cited, that what at first appeared a dire and irreparable disaster was speedily converted, by the courage and energy of the sufferers themselves, into a real and permanent benefit ; for the new buildings have been constructed of more substantial and less ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 97 combustible materials than their predecessors, the streets and side-walks have been widened and repaved, and a vastly impro\ed and beautified Suffolk has arisen from last year's debris under the busy hands of numerous workmen. ATTRACTIVE HOMES. There is no district in the United States that offers greater inducements and advantages to immigrants of all classes — native and foreign — in search of cheap and attractive homes, than the Town of Suffolk and the fine agricultural and timber lands of which it is the natural centre. Its mild, healthy and equable climate, exempt from the extremes of heat and cold, its excellent and numerous channels of transportation by land and water, the fertility of its soil and the diversity of its crops, together with other blessings which might be enumerated, seem to point to this neighborhood as specially suited for the profitable exercise of that natural thrift and enterprise which characterize the Northern, Western and European farmer. Many of this class are setded in Nansemond and the adjoining counties, where they are highly esteemed and cordially wel- comed. The products of this favored region are numerous and varied, including corn, wheat, oats, peanuts, cotton, potatoes and early vegetables for the Northern markets, ' ' Trucking' ' has proved a very profitable industry, and nearly half of Nanse- mond County is thus cultivated. The land, after the removal of the " truck croj)s " is immediately utilized for subsistence sup- plies, such as orchard grass, pea-vine, hay, cSic. , thus securing two distinct and valuable crops off the same land in each vcar. 9^ * SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. In addition to the land already under cultivation in the district tributary to Suffolk, an immense new area is rapidly becoming available along the lines of the Suffolk & Carolina and the Suffolk Lumber Company's Railroads, and the value of property is advancing with proportionate rapidity. These railroads were opened with the primary object of developing the great lumber interests of the section by which they are traversed. As this work progresses and the timber gradually disappears from the rich soil which gave it birth, the plow will take the place of the axe, and the forest, having fulhlled its appointed mission, will be succeeded by the corn-field and meadow. These lands can now be secured at a very low figure, and purchasers would be certain to make handsome profits upon their investments. THE SUFFOLK MANUFACTURING CO. This Company was organized in October, 1885, for the purpose of manufacturing Cotton Yarns, Warps. Twines. Bats, &c. , and has so far met with complete success, which promises to increase as time goes on. The mill is situated on the line of the Norfolk & Western Railroad, a hundred yards or so from the depot, and the raw material from which its products are manufactured is mostly grown in this immediate district. The Company therefore enjoys extraordinary facilities for conduct- ing its business economically, having direct access alike to the source of its supply and to the markets in which its produc- tions are disposed of The latter find a ready sale in Balti- more, Philadelphia, New York, Richmond and Norfolk, and the mill is kept busy to its full capacity in order to meet the ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 99 demand. Tlie mill now works something- over 1,200 si)indles and gives employment to 30 hands. Its capacity, however, will soon ha\^e to be enlarg-ed, if the orders continue to multi- ply as they are doing at present. The officers of the Company are : T. P. Baldwin, President ; Charles Cugle, Secretary and Treasurer, and Thomas W. Smith, SujDerintendent. The THE SrFFOLIC MAXriWrTlRIXC C( )MI'AN\'S (OTTOX MUJ . mechanical department is under the superxision of the foreman, B. F. Barnes, a ])ractical spinner and machinist. The gratify- ing success with which this experimental enteiprise has met will no douljt attract the attention of cajjitalists at a distance, and lead to the formation of other companies for similar i)ur- j)Oses ; and there seems to he no good ix-ason wh\' Suffolk lOO SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. should not shortly become an important cotton-manufacturing; centre. BANKING. Suffolk is under no necessity for any exceptional banking- accommodations, for the reason that she is not — like Norfolk, for instance — a great seaport requiring large advances of cash for the purchase of whole crops of cotton, or for other similar purposes. On the contrary, our merchants and manufacturers rely, to a great extent, upon their own capital for carrying on their business, and the bank is not liable to be called upon for any heavy discounts, but serves rather as a depository and col- lecting agency than as a mere money lender. It thus happens that the Farmers Bank of Nansemond, which is the only finan- cial institution in Suffolk, although kept busy all the year round, is quite able to transact all the business that seeks it and to meet all possible demands upon its ample resources. Among its officers and directors are some of the leading capi- talists, merchants and professional men in Suffolk, and it can boast — as very few banks in the United States can — that its surplus is fifty per cent, larger than its capital stock. INSURANCE. To the ner\'ous person in moderate circumstances, regard- less of age, sex or occupation, there are few things capable of yielding such solid comfort as the possession of a sufficient Policy of Insurance — fire or life — with a first-class Company. Indeed, no prudent man will leave his property unprotected against the risk of fire, or his family unprovided for in the event of his death, when a trifling outlav, in the form of ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. lOI premiums, will absolutely secure him against pecuniary loss — possibly ruin — and his family, after he is gone, from poverty. When a man's property, whether it be his factory, store or dwelling house, is covered to its full \'alue by reliable insurance against the accidental spark or the malice of the incendiary, the peal of the tire alarm is robbed, to his ear, of half its cus- tomary terrors, for it awakens in him no dread of personal dis- aster ; and when he knows that immediately upon his death those nearest and dearest ones who now depend upon him for support will receive a sum of money sufficient to guard them at least against want, if not enough to supply them with their ac- customed comforts, his last days are unclouded by those tortures of apprehension which would otherwise necessarily assail him. As in business transactions generally, so in the matter of fire or life insurance, the wise man will have no dealings with other than sound and respectable companies, and there are so many of this class represented in Suffolk, each offering some special advantage or attraction, that the intending insurer is puzzled to make a selection, while he would be perfectly — perhaps equally — safe with all. Nearly all first class Insurance Companies doing business in the United States are represented in Suffolk by their Agents, and their aggregate capital and assets amount to scores of millions of dollars. Risks and possible evils of all kinds should be continually provided against, as a matter of business and as a matter of principle, and every uninsured person who estimates his prop- erty as worth protecting, and his family as worth providing for, will remedy the omission as speedilv as possible by taking out pol- icies, according to his means, on his life and worldy possessions. I02 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES. Any attempt to advance original ideas upon the momen- tous question of Education, which is now universally admitted to be one of paramount importance in every civilized and pro- gressive community, would but weary the reader, and at the same time prove" a lamentable failure ; for the subject has been worn almost threadbare by the preachers and lecturers, com- mentators and statesmen, of many generations, and is still, as it is probably destined to remain, an unsolved problem. But it is gratifying to know that our own people enjoy exceptional advantages in their efforts to secure this ' ' pearl without price, ' ' and that the system in force here is as perfect and efficacious as any that has as yet been discovered. Besides the Public Schools, Suffolk numbers among its scholastic institutions several private Seminaries of the very highest order, for boys and girls. Virginia has always been famous for the number and high rank of her Schools and Colleges, and Suffolk has done her full share towards establishing and maintaining this enviable reputation. The Town is eminently adapted to insti- tutions of this kind, for, in addition to the excellence of the education they afford, the climate is extremely healthy, and the society as genial aud refined as any in the land. LUMBER. Even in the ' * Olden Times, ' ' and long before the applica- tion of steam-power to mechanical purposes, or the invention of machinery — as the word is now understood — Suffolk was famous all over the seaboard States, and at some foreign ports besides, as a depot and manufacturing point for this ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 103 i^reat product of the forest. The name "lumber" was used generically in those days, and comprised saw-logs, sawed and split timber, staves, shingles, laths, &c. — articles which it is becoming- customary to classify separately, applying the original and comprehensive term to only the issue of the saw-mill. For many years the principal feature of this trade in Suffolk was the preparation of juniper and cypress shingles in the Dismal THE r.AV MANl'FACri kl\(; COMI'AWS Ll^MBER MILL,— Sec pajje 105, Swamp, and their .shipment at Suffolk to the northern markets. Gradually thTs business dwindled away till it was almost aban- doned, and one of our most important industries seemed to have died out. The vital germ was still here, however, and during the past few years the Lumber interest has sprung uj> again with an activity which bids fiiir to atone for the time pre- viouslv lost in its dcvelopnicnt. Two railroads have been I04 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. built mainly with a view to opening up the fine timber lands lying to the south of Suffolk, and between the Nansemond River and Albemarle Sound. In connection with these rail- roads several large saw-mills are in busy operation, and others, still larger, will shortly be constructed. These roads, moreover, will very soon be extended to convenient points on the Chowan River, passing through some of the finest lorest lands in the country, and affording access to an almost inexhaustible supply of excellent lumber. In addition to the saw^-mills above alluded to, we have large planing mills thoroughly equipped with modern improved machinery for the manufacture of door and window- frames, brackets, mouldings, and all other builders' materials contrived from wood. It is certain, also, that very few towns in the United States afford greater facilities for the profitable manufacture of lumber than Suffolk, for the obvious reason that, owing to the cheapness of land and labor, it could be sawed and dressed here and shipped to any part of the country, by land or water, ready for use, for much less money than it would cost to deliver it at the same point in its rough condition and manufacture it there. Now that the lumber trade has been revived here with so much energy and such splendid prospects, there are good grounds for predicting that it will attract outside brains and capital and achieve still greater things in the future. Including the two railroads chiefly devoted to its interests, the amount now engaged in this branch of industry centring in Suffolk cannot be far short of $1,000,006. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. I05 THE GAY MANUFACTURING COMPANY— LUMBER MANUFACTURERS. (See EnKiaviiiK on pa^e loj;.) Among the many enterprises which, during the })ast few years, have marked the revival of Suffolk's Trade and increased her commercial importance, the Gay Manufacturing Company, with its various present and prospective interests, may be justly regarded as occupying a foremost position. It was re-organized in April, i884, and is now one of the largest employers of labor in this and the adjoining counties. Its present officers are: W. N. Camp, President; Chas. F. Pitt, Jr. , Secretary; Geo. L. Barton, Treasurer; W. N. Camp, Chas. F. Pitt, Jr., John S. Gittings, S. P. Ryland, Jr., Chauncey Brooks and W. H. Bosley, Directors. The offices of the Company are at the Suffolk Mill, which is situated on the North side of the river, and occupies, with its lumber yard, an area of about five acres, having an extended river-front, with deep water, and ample wharfage accommodation for its enormous business. This mill alone has a daily capacity of 30,000 feet of lumber, and gives employment to about fifty hands. The logging business of the Company in this County (Nansemond) and in Czates County, N. C, employs as many more. The Company owns another mill near Cypress Chapel, Nansemond County, with a daily capacity of nearly 15,000 feet of lumber, where thirty-five hands are employed. In addition to these they control a smaller mill, in the same neighborhood, w itii a capacity of 10,000 feet and an average of tvventy-fi\e hands. Their present business, therefore, turns out daily about 55,000 feet of lumber, besides large (luantities of fire- wood, and gixes steady employ- I06 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA, ment to over 150 hands. But this is not all. They are now erecting a new mill, near Sunbury, N. C, which will have a daily capacity of 60,000 feet of lumber and give work to 150 hands. The Stearns Manufacturing Company, of Erie, Pa., have been awarded the contract for the machinery, which will be of the most approved kind and will comprise the great modern invention, Wilkins' Patent Balance Gang. The yield of this mill will come over the Suffolk & Carolina Railroad to Suffolk, which will be the distributing point of this whole immense business. The Gay Manufacturing Company has also purchased large tracts of fine timber land not only in Nan- semond but also in Gates, Chowan and Perquimans Counties, North Carolina, as well as the standing timber on other tracts. With abundant capital and long practical experience, a great future may safely be predicted for this enterprising Company, while there can be no question as to its beneficial and stimulat- ing influence upon the industrial and commercial interests of Suffolk. THE LOCAL PRESS. The first newspaper ever published here was the Suffolk Intelligencer, which made its appearance on the 4th of January, 1849. John R. Kilby was its Editor and Proprietor and its political bias was favorable to the old Whig party and princi- ples. A year or two later David J. Goodwin launched the Southro7i, which was purchased in 1852 by A. W. Starke and became the Nansemo7id Enquirer. The District Republican was established in the same year (1852) by Richard L. Brew^er, with Ogilvie Byron Young as Editor. The Christian Sun, of which the Rev. W. B. Wellons was ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 107 Editor and Proprietor, was brought to Suffolk in 1855 from Raleigh, N. C, where it had been previously published. Dr. Wellons remained at its head till October, 1876, when it became the property of the Rev. J. T. Whidy and D. B. Dunbar, by II kis I I \\ (ill i<( II whom it was jointly edited. Mr. W'hitly was succeeded by the Rev. W. T. Walker, as Editor, tlu; ])aper becoming the prop- erty of Mr. Dunbar. The last named gentleman sold out to the Rev. J. P. Barrett, who took the i)aj)er back, in July, 1882. to Raleigh, N. C, where it is still published. I08 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. In December, 1879, the Examiner was established by Messrs. Briggs, Causey & Rawles, who continued its publica- tion for about thirteen months. The Suffolk Hei'ald \\r2iS founded on January ist, 1873, by Dr. Thomas E. Cropper, Editor and Proprietor. In the fol- lowing March it was purchased by Thomas G. Elam from Dr. Cropper, who, however, continued the editorial work until April nth, when Junius A. Coleman assumed editorial charge. On January ist, 1874, Mr. Elam became Editor, assisted by Mr. Coleman in the local department. A year later (January ist, 1875,) Mr. Elam sold a half interest in the Herald to Dr. James B. Campbell, and it was published for a year by Elam & Campbell. On January ist, 1876, Mr. Elam disposed of his entire interest to Dr. Campbell and E. E. Hathaway, by whom it was published for six months, when Mr. Elam bought back Dr. Campbell's interest, and the paper was published from that time (July ist, 1876,) by Elam & Hathaway, until January ist, 1878, when the Herald became once more the sole property of Thomas G. Elam, who remained its Proprietor and Editor till January ist, 1886, on which date he sold out to J. E. Booker, who had been the Business Manager for the previous seven years, and is now the Editor and Proprietor, The Herald is now the only newspaper published in Suf- folk. It enjoys a large circulation throughout Nansemond and the adjoining counties, in both Virginia and North Carolina, and is widely esteemed as an excellent advertising medium. In politics it is entirely independent of party control, but its opin- ions are Democratic. In connection with the Herald is a large and well equipped Job Printing Office, which is under able ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. lOQ management and forms an important branch of the estabhsh- ment. CARRIACiE F'ACTORIES AND LIVERY STABLES. One of the tirst things noticed by an observant visitor to a strange town is the number and style of the vehicles moving upon its thoroughfares, and it may be stated, without boasting, that in this respect Suffolk will compare favorably with any other Southern Town. The reason for this is easily explained. Among our most enterprising citizens are the manufacturers of and dealers in Carriages, Buggies, Wagons and Harness, and the proprietors of the Livery, Sale and Exchange Stables. Every variety of equipage can be procured here, of the finest quality and at most reasonable prices, while the magnificent specimens of horse-flesh to be seen on our streets at all times have attracted the attention of dealers in distant parts of the country, and Suffolk horses are in demand even in New York. From $40,000 to $50,000 is engaged here in the Livery busi- ness, and the Carriage Factories, which also deal in Iron and Carriage Material of all kinds, employ about an equal sum. The Livery Stables are always well supplied with carriages, buggies and saddle horses for hire, as well as large assortments of horses and mules for sale and exchange. In regard to the special branches of trade now under review, the Town is remarkably fortunate and the most fastid- ious need not go beyond Suffolk to obtain a turn-out stylish enough for the Avenues of the Metropolis. no SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. W. N.lvrcANGEV SUFFOLK, VA. PLANTER, PACKER AND SHIPPER OF FRESH OYSTERS PACKED IN EVERY STYLE AND SHIPPED IN ANY QUANTITIES FROM ONE TO ONE THOUSAND GALLONS. Facilities Unsurpassed in Virginia, Bushels Fine Old Plants on My Own Planting Grounds. The Express and Railroad Company's books show that I ship three- quarters of the entire Bulk of Oysters shipped from this point. I OWN MY OWN VESSELS AND PLANTING GROUNDS, thus giving my customers oysters direct from their native beds and guaranteeing them a full supply in all kinds of weather. Correspondence Solicited. No trouble to answer letters. W. N. MCAIMGE, Foot of Main Street, SuflTolk, Va. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. Ill OYSTER PACKING. This business which now occupies front rank in Suffolk's industrial enterprises, was inaugurated here, on a very small scale, about the year i860. Almost immediately afterwards the War between the States broke out, and the Oyster Trade was crushed in its infancy. But the experiment had proved most encouraging, and when peace was restored the business was revived by Mr. H. D. Cooper, Agent of the Seaboard & Roa- noke Railroad, who may be regarded as the pioneer Oyster ji^^!Sfvi^^/ W. N. McANGE'S OYSTER PACKING ESTABLISHMENT. Packer of Suffolk. In 1869 another establishment was founded. At this time the business was almost strictly confined to what is technically known as the "Bucket Trade" — that is, the oysters were opened here and shipped away in pails holding from two to ten gallons. As the demand increased the " Barrel Trade" came into vogue, and large quantities of oysters were shipped away in their shells — l)oth branches of the trade being now freely engaged in. The bulk of the Oyster Business of 112 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. Suffolk is in the hands of two houses, who, together, sometimes open as many as 65,000 bushels of oysters in a year. There are several small houses also engaged in the business, which swell the total annual capacity of the port to about 75,000 bushels. This enormous yield is distributed far and near throughout the whole extent of the country, the ' * barrel trade ' ' going chiefly to Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and other Northern markets, and the " bucket trade" supply- ing those of the Carolinas, Georgia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio and Mississippi. The two large houses which control the trade own extensive oyster beds on the Nansemond River Flats, eighteen or twenty miles below the Town, the ' ' plants ' ' being obtained from the famous beds of James River and Hampton Roads. These establishments own a large fleet of sloops, which are constantly engaged, during the season, in " tonging " the oysters from the beds and trans- porting them to the Suffolk warehouses, where they are opened or barrelled for final shipment. The shells are disposed of to be burnt and converted into agricultural lime. The Oyster Packing Trade of Suffolk employs a capital of about $50,000. As an oyster-depot, Suffolk possesses advantages over any other port in Virginia, for the reason that oysters can be pro- cured in the Nansemond River during the stormy seasons when Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay would be hardly navigable to small craft. BRICKS. Prior to 1883 the Brick manufacturing Industry in Suffolk was unimportant when compared with its present status. Up ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 114 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. to that time there was only one brick-yard in the neighborhood and its average yield did not exceed 300,000 bricks a year. Its methods were primitive and its products comparatively inferior. There are now two large ' ' mills ' ' engaged in the business and both are supplied with the best steam appliances and machinery. Their combined annual out-put is over 2,000,000 bricks, the quality of which is unsurpassed for excellence. Experts from Baltimore and elsewhere have pronounced the Suffolk clay to be as fine as they have, ever seen. The bricks manufactured here are mostly sold in this vicinity. They are worth from $7 to $10 per thousand and have lately been in brisk demand con- sequent upon the large number of stores and residences going up to replace those destroyed by last year's conflagration, and the unusual amount of building in progress elsewhere in and arpund the Town. About $12,000 to $15,000 is engaged in this branch of industry, which also gives steady employment to about thirty men. It is the means of distributing a good deal of money among the neighboring farmers in the purchase of fire-wood, about 1,000 cords of which is consumed in the course of a year, besides many tons of coal. DRY GOODS, NOTIONS, CARPETS, &c. What pen, especially if it be of the masculine persuasion, shall attempt to depict the wonders of that "Woman's Para- dise," a first-class Dry Goods Store, a mere catalogue of whose ordinary stock would fill many a close-writ page! Let not the reader's heart be troubled, for the attempt is not about to be made. Suffice it to say that Suffolk can show as hand- some and well-stocked establishments devoted to this particular ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. II 5 branch of merchandise as any town of double its size in Vir- ginia or elsewhere in the South. They carry large assortments of Dry Goods, Notions and other kindred commodities. The wholesale departments do a very satisfactory business which is mostly confined to this section of Virginia and North Carolina; but the area covered by this trade is gradually being extended. Most of our Dry Goods houses are also supplied with full lines of Carpets, of all descriptions and the products of all lands, as well as mats, rugs, druggets, and other similar wares. All their goods are guaranteed not to exceed Northern prices. The capital engaged m the Dry Goods Trade, and those affiliated with it. is necessarily very large, and the sales for the year 1885 are estimated to have reached $250,000 or $300,000. GROCERIES AND GENERAL MERCHANDISE. Suffolk is conservative enough to adhere to many a tnne- honored custom, among which is that of combining the grocery trade with what might be called general merchandise; that is to say, the customer who visits a .store to purchase sugar or coffee or flour can usually be suited at an adjoining counter with clothing, hats, boots and shoes, hardware, and almost anything else he may need for ordinary domestic purposes — and vice versa. The dealers in general merchandise are also, to some extent, commission merchants, and receive large quantities ol grain, bacon and other country produce for sale, or in exchange for other goods. An open account is frequently kept by the neighboring planter with the general merchant, who adxances what goods, fertilizers and money may be required by his cus- touK'r from harxest to harvest. It will i)c seen that ronsideni- Il6 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. ble capital is required to carry on a business of this kind, and it is estimated that nearly $250,000 is employed in it by our General Merchants, than whom a more sound, solvent and successful body of business men, in proportion to the popula- tion they supply and the amount of capiial involved, cannot be found elsewhere in the South. The Merchandise Broker is affiil- iated with and auxiliary to the grocery trade, and the Suffolk representative of this class deals directly with the leading houses of Chicago, Cincinnati, New York, Boston and Philadelphia, on specially advantageous terms. FERTILIZERS. During the past few years the demand for fertilizers has been far in excess of the supply of natural guano and manure, and has led to its manufacture on a \'ery large scale. In the newly and sparsely settled Territories of the West, where the land has been under cultivation for a comparatively short period, the need of an artificial stimulus to the soil has as yet been little felt, but in the East it has become indispensable. The ground has been tilled by succeeding generations until its nourishing power is exhausted and requires periodical and systematic renewing to render it once more fertile and productive. Espe- cially is this the case in Eastern Virginia, the Carolinas and other States where the "trucking" business is extensively car- ried on, and where cotton, peanuts, grain and tobacco are the staple crops. The richest soil can only supply a certain limited amount of nutrition to the vegetation it sustains, and when that nutrition has been exhausted by overcropping it must be restored, either by the slow process of natural recuperation or ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. II 7 else by such artificial means as science may suggest and expe- rience appro\'e. The latter alternative obviously commends itself to the practical planter and farmer, and the result is that artificial fertilizers are now in almost universal use among agri- culturalists in the Eastern States. ' ' Shell lime, ' ' which is prepared by simply burning and pulverizing oyster shells, is manufactured here in large quantities, and is a valuable though inexpensive aid in restoring to the impoverished soil its original elements of plant-food. Special crops, however, are found to need special treatment, and various brands of fertilizers and guano mixtures ha\'e been formulated to meet the peculiar requirements of each. Horticulturalists, florists and the owners of private conservatories also find the use of these mix- tures to be of the greatest advantage; and every lady whose hyacinths and other house plants bear testimony to her own refined taste, while enhancing the charms of her already attrac- tive ' ' establishment, ' ' would do well to study the effects of these artificial assistants in her own household. FURNITURE, &c. This trade, combined with that of Undertaking, has assumed much importance in vSuffolk of late years, and now employs a cash capital of about $15,000. Our furniture ware- rooms contain large and varied assortments of stock, and every taste and every pocket can be suited, at factory prices, whether the articles be required for parlor, dining-room, chamber, office or school. The people of Nansemond and the adjoinmg counties of Virginia and North Carolina find this a mo.st advantageous market at which to make their j)urchases. Il8 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. and each year brings increased business to our dealers. Here, as in other places, there is occasionally to be met with a man who refuses to acknowledge genuine excellence unless he has himself imported it from some distant market, but experience has taught the great majority of consumers that it is more economical, as well as infinitely more satisfactory, to deal with merchants whom they know personally and meet every day — reliable and responsible business men — who are always accessi- ble when, through some accident or unsuspected flaw, a guarantee would have to be made good. DRUGS, PAINTS AND OILS. The business done in these important commodities in Suf- folk is much more considerable than would be supposed by the uninitiated, and employs in the aggregate a capital of about $35,000. The stocks kept by the establishments engaged in this branch of trade are large and varied, and our druggists have earned a wide and honorable reputation through the excellence of the goods they supply as well as through the agency of certain "specialties" which are put up in Suffolk. Besides Drugs, Paints and Oils, our wholesale houses carry full lines of Window Glass, Perfumery, Spices, Seeds, Patent Medicines, Fancy and Toilet Articles, and numerous other goods not strictly akin to Pharmacy, to-wit: Tobacco, Cigars, Cigarettes, Books, Stationery, Doors, Sash, Blinds, Cement, Hardware, etc. Our principal wholesale drug trade is carried on with South- Eastern Virginia and North Carolina, while other and more distant States have been made familiar with Suffolk's enterprise in this line. ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. I I9 HAY, GRAIN, LIME, COAL AND ICE. The central position occupied by Suffolk, with her unsur- passed transportation facilities by land and water, renders her an important depot and distributing" point for the commodoties embraced by the above rather comprehensi\'e heading. We are in direct railroad communicaition not only with the rich agricultural counties of Virginia and North Carolina, but also with the famous coal-fields of this and the adjoining States, tv'hich insures to us a cheap and abundant supply oi " the fruits of the earth" — above and below ground. The oysters of Nansemond River furnish large quantities of shells which are here burnt and converted into agricultural lime. Ice also is imported from the famous rivers of Maine in large quantities and re-shipped to points along the lines of the railroads cen- tring at Suffolk. In addition to the articles above enumerated, our dealers handle plaster, cement and other builders' mate- rials, besides strawy oats, mill feed, etc. These trades, separate and combined, are in the hands of experienced and trustworthy firms, with plenty of capital to conduct and expand their busi- ness according to the opportunities legitimately offered. BOOKS, STATIONERY, PIANOS, Sac. This important and comprehensive business is here con- trolled by competent and enterprising gentlemen, fully qualified to conduct it upon principles commensurate with its inherent dignity. In our Hook and Stationery Stores, besides a well selected assortment of standard literature. School Books, Blank Books, Plain and P\mcy Paper and such other articles as are in every-day use by cultivated people, are also to be found a I20 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. choice variety of Paintings, Engravings, Photographs, Artists' SuppHes, Sheet Music, and a host of other commodities which may be grouped under the term "fancy." A Circulating Library, well supplied with selected works by the best authors, has recently been established, and will doubtless prove a source of much amusement and instruction to all classes of our citi- zens. Combined with the Book and Stationery business, is that of Pianos aud Organs, and our dealers can furnish instruments from the most famous factories in the country on exceptionally favorable terms. MISCELLANEOUS TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. In the preceding pages special attention has been directed, under distinctive headings, to the leading branches of trade and industry engaged in by the manufacturing and mercantile classes of Suffolk, and it must be admitted that not only does the present condition of her affairs make a most creditable showing, but also that her existing advantages are in a fair way to become considerably augmented and that her future is rich in promises of continually increasing prosperity — promises which will certainly be redeemed, provided the people remain faithful to themselves and to their traditions. In addition to the more prominent subjects already reviewed, there are others, too numerous for separate classification, and yet too productive of good in their combined influence upon the community to justify their being passed by without mention. The builders and contractors of the Town have erected, on all sides, hand- some monuments to their skill; the windows and show-cases of our jewelers present a most attractive display of watches, ITS PEOPLE AND llS IKADi:. 121 clocks, g'old and silverware, and such other articles as pertain to their special department of trade; such goods as china and glass- ware are to be found in great \'ariety and at as low prices as in the Northern cities; the photographic artists turnout first-class work in all styles; while the representatives of all other trades not specially referred to, contribute, each in his particular sphere, their quota towards the general prosjjeritv of the Town. M:\V stoke 01-" DARDEX & ELEV AND JOSJCPH I*. \Vi:i',H. The professional men, too — lawyers, doctors and dentists — present an array of talent which any community might well be proud of, and exercise in a conspicuous degree, that influence for good which their sui)eri()r attainments ha\c placed at tiieir command. In short, for a Town ol its size and pojjulalion there cannot be found one anywhere in whi( h the people are more ali\e to their own highest interests, and in which the 122 SKETCH BOOK OF SUFFOLK, VA. necessaries, comforts and luxuries of life, in all conceivable forms, are more easily obtainable than they are in Suffolk, and no other Town offers greater inducements to honest capital and honest labor. > SUMMARY. The scenery around Suffolk is naturally tame and unro- mantic, but its deficiencies in grandeur are more than atoned for by the unmistakable evidences of thrift and industry, energy and enterprise, which meet the eye on all sides, as it wanders over the rich and highly cultivated farms with their fertile fields, fruitful vineyards, teeming orchards and comfortable homesteads. The people of Suffolk are essentially "go-ahead." Their sense of local pride prompts them to emulate, in theory and practice, the best qualities of larger populations. Their residences are the perfection of neatness and refined taste, while many of their principal streets are gracefully arched by ornamental shade trees. The circumjacent country is rich, and the farmers live well and spend thc-ir money freely. As a natural consequence the merchants keep full lines of goods according to the nature of their respective trades, and all kinds of merchandise may be purchased here on as good terms as in Richmond or Baltimore. The total bonded debt of Suffolk amounts to $7,000, which is pehaps as small as that of any town in the South with a population of three thousand. The taxes also are unusually low, being 71 cents per $100, divided as follows: for general municipal purposes, 55 cents; poor rate, 10 cents; public schools, 6 cents; total, 71 cents. The questions of public ITS PEOPLE AND ITS TRADE. 123 debt and taxation arc of peculiar importance to j)ersons medi- tating- a change oi" residence and on the look-out for a locality which combines comparatixe exemption from compulsory assessment with other material ad\'antages, and to readers of this class the above information is specially commended. ' It would be easy to extend the catalogue of Suffolk's attractions indefinitely, and still not tell the half ; b-ut the design Sl'FFOLK STATION Ol- THi: SI'.AI'.OARn .S: KOAXOKIC RAII.R(V\I). of this little Ski:ic H Hook is to interest, not wear)', the reader, and if this result be attained, the foregoing narrative will not have been written in \ ain. Should it fall into the hands of any seeker after a home possessing such undeniable a 76 Pitt, Chas. F., Jr., Secretary.... 105 Pope, A., Gen'l F'g't Ag't 9 Prentis. Robert R 48 Quimby, Mrs.*!.. H., Principal.. 60 Rawles, Richard H 48 Reynolds, lienj., Supt 80 Riddick \- Ikker 28 Riddick, E. S 82 Seab()ar