/^ < ^\% *JFJIE* raaco-Affisiicaa FORM A Variable Diagram for fitting Dresses and other Garments; adapted equally to Professional and Home use: with Explanations, &c. X f Si fcr /0 ' WA PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1882. Entered according to act of Congress, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, 1882, 1 y E. P. Tkbadwat. THE FRMCOMERKM I S adjustable to any size or figure, and requires only three measures, viz : — Shoulder measure. Under-arm measure. And Waist measure. DIRECTIONS. The shoulder measure should be taken with care ; thus: — With the left hand hold the end of the tape exactly on the prominent bone at the back of the neck ; with the right hand, pass the tape over the front of the shoulder, under the arm, and over the shoulder- blade, drawing it firmly and snugly up to the first point of measurement at the back of the neck. The tape must touch the hollow of the arm distinctly, and the arm must be allowed to hang down naturally while the measure is being taken. This measure governs the neck, shoulder, bust, and back. The under-arm, measure determines the length of the waist. Place the end of the tape close up under the arm with the arm down, and measure only down to the smallest part of the waist, taking care not to make it too long ; for if the waist is cut too long it is spoiled, but if cut too short it can easily be remedied. 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Observe the figures in the illustration, and put the parts together as there indicated, sliding one upon another. To mark out a Basque, take for example the measurements of a medium size ; viz : Shoulder measure, ... 22 inches. Under-arm measure, . . . y}4 inches. Waist measure, ... 24 inches. Having put the pieces together, lay the form on the cloth or lining with Nos. 6 and 22 next to the selvedge. Slide No. 2 down to 22 on the scale of No. 1, so that the lower left-hand corner of the brass slide shall come exactly to the line marked 22. Set No. 6 so that the outside edge shall come exactly to the line 22 on the scale of No. 4. Place No. 5 so that the lower edge shall be at the line 7}^ on the scale of No. 6. This gives the length of the waist under the arm, but not on the front. The bottom of the waist in front is always one or two inches lower than that under the arm. This must be noticed in cutting a round waist. Next, place the upper end of No. 7 so that the left-hand point shall be at 4 II *9jqissod sb uijb 9q; J9pun dn 9sop sb 'uijb J9ddn 9q} punojy *q;9 *uub9joj aip jo iJBd }S9Sjbj 9q} punojy 'qat ISum 9q; punojy *p£ *q}.§U9J p9J!S9p 9q} '}SUAY OJ A\Oqp UIOJ j *p3 •Moqp 9qi jo luiod 9qi o} 'auqj^DBq 9q; jo pu9 9qj ;b 'j9p[iioqs 9qa uiojj 'lsi *S9jnsB9ui Suia\oj|oj 9q} 9^} '9}sb:i 9qi o; os[B puB ^stbav 9qa o; 'uijb 9q} o; 9A99JS 9qi 1IJ O} 9JOJ9J9qjL *9A99[S }BOD U|B[d JO 'J§UIA\OJJ JO iqx>IBJ}S 'ijoqs jo Suoj '}qSp JO 9SOOJ 9q Abui ;j *j9JB9A\ 9q} jo 91sb; 9q} jo 9poui £uiTiBA9jd 9qi ains o} Ap;iuu9pui lSOUI[B XjBA AbUI 9A99JS 9q} 'uuo j y * j 9qi ui p9;BT -hdjbd 9jb qDiqM 'suopjodojd uibij9D 9Aj9S9jd isniu ^BDui9iuaiXs 9q o] j9pjo ui ';siba\ 9q; 9HH A\ *s9jnsB9iu 9joiu S9Jinb9J it k 9[X;s puB 'uuoj 'suopjodojd S|I ui isibav 9q} jo au9pu9d9put Apjpu9 si 9A99js 9q} sy •sashes •x3uiuiui9q jo pB9}sui ui9q} 99vfpuv 's9joquoi}nq joj dB[ oj iU9pujns xkltAYOTJB S9^p9 1UOJJ 9q"l JJO UIU£ 'UIJOJ 9q} JO S9AJ11D 9qa .Suimojjoj 'yfinojy} zac? puB 'j9q;9.§o} XpoBX9 puB A[U9A9 S9Sp9 OA\l 9q} 9^B} }Iiq 'j9qiO 9qi J9AO lUOJJ 9UO dB[ ;ou op ( uo Xj; 01 p9}SBq U9q^\\ 'S9ui{ uiB9S 9qa UO M9S pUB J9q}9xfol /CjpVX9 Lpop 9qi JO S9Sp9 OAV1 9qi 9>[BJ^ 'UIJB 9q} J9pun pUB SJ9p|HOqS 9q; UO SIUB9S JOJ p9AVO[JB SI qDUI 9710 lBq} 9DUOU J[IA\ HOA* '. SLUJOJ pUB 5[0Bq 9q; ui slub9S qoui % ^^JL *9Ads-uijb 9qa ib M9S o} uiJ§9q puB J9qi9xfo} S9D9id 9qj qo^Bui ';riD U9qy^ 'Li o^j oj ii *o^j jo do; 9q} uiojj 9Ads-uijb 9q; os[B ^JBp\[ '91SB} 9qa ims o; on the small scale above the slot, and bring the left- hand (inside) edge to 12 on the scale of No. 5, then slide the upper end of No. 8 close up to the lower edge of No. 5 at the same time letting the lower end swing out from 2 to 4 inches for the fullness of the basque. Notice the fastenings, and pull out the key, or thumb piece, to loosen the button, and push it firmly into the shank to fasten when each piece is adjusted. Set the upper end of No. 9 to the left of the little slot and fasten, letting it hang nearly parallel to No. 7. Set No. 10 (large dart) with the index point between 2 and 3 as indicated in the figure ; draw the lower parts down until the whole length of the opening is eleven inches, and the width at the lower end about one inch. Fasten all the buttons securely. Place the upper point of the opening about 4^ inches from the outer edge of No. 6, and exactly even with the middle of the hinge. Notice now, that the widest part of the opening is about an inch below No. 5, and No. 9 is about half way between the sewing lines of No. 10 and No. 7. Now mark with a pencil on the cloth close to those edges where heavy or broken lines appear. (You will notice that some of the pieces will thus be marked on both sides, and some not at all ; as for instance No. 2 and Nos. 7 and 8 are marked on both sides, the heavy lines to cut by, the broke?i lines to sew by. The darts are marked only to sew by; Nos. 1, 4, and 5 are not marked at all, although it is well, for convenience, in case the Form should accidently be displaced on the cloth while marking, to draw a line •S3jns"B3ui I'emo'e aqi jo saqoui sip ajqnop Apo-exa sjsquinu aqj 312 psoiqd sjb t puis £ 'so^ uo saansBaui 9qi }Bip gAuasqo * f 9 'Oft uo ti ib it 9DBjd noX 'zi }b £ 'Oft SupBjd jo pB9}sui jj -jjBd J9pun 9q; joj 9jnsB9ui jbiypb 9q} uiojj SS9DX9 9q} pnp9p U9ip pUB '}U9lU9JriSB9lU IBlllDB 9ip p9p990X9 9ABq noA" qoniu A\oq 99i}o^ U9ddn joj qipiM p9JiS9p 9ip 05 9 puB 9 *sofj; uo ino £ 'Oft 9pqs 'iu9S9jd ib 9jX}s 9q; si sb ( j9pun 9qi uBqj J9piA\ 9q o; p9JiS9p si J9ddn 9q; jj *q}piA\ 9Uibs 9ip jo 9q o; 9A99js jo siJBd J9pun puB J9ddn 9qi s9Soddns ;u9iu}sn(pB siqj^ '£ 'ojsj uo zi o; £ 'Oft jo 9^p9 9pis;no 19S '9jnsB9tu q;£ jo^j 'g 'Oft uo 01 01 £ 'Oft JO 9%>9 9piS;riO }9S '9JT1SB9UI qit 7 JO j 'I 'Oft UO g O} £ *0^[ JO 9^p9 9piSinO 9q} }9S '9JI1SB9UI }SUAY 9qi JOJ U9qjL '£ 'Oft UO U9^B1 JJB 'JBJ SFtqi '9JB S9JUSB9UI 9qi ;Bq; 9Ai9DJ9d ttiav noA : oaioui 9qi 9AoqB jsnf 'f puB £ 'sojsj jo spu9 9qi uo L 'Oft }9s ! t -o^j jo jjBq J9ddn jo pu9 9q; o} dn 9 'Oft 9pqs U9qi 'U9A9 9jb f puB £ * so N J° S P U9 J^ddn 9qi lBq; 995 * "i 7 puB £ 'so^[ uo fz 9uq 9qi ;b si J9ddn 9qa niun UA\op £ *o^[ 9pqs ';jBd J9MOJ 9qi uo 91 01 uA\op £ 'Oft jo iJBd J9ddn 9qi 9pqs : sa\ojjoj sb uijo j9qi }9g 'S9qoui £ (j9pjnoqsjo do; 0:1 9jrsb9ui qi£ iuojj) 9jnsB9ixi q;9 9qj^ puB 's9qouT z\ (uijb J9ddn) 9JRSB9LU qa£ 9qj^ *S9qDUT 01 (ujjb-9JOj) 9JUSB91U qyb 9qx 'S9qDUT 8 (}SUA\) 9JUSB9LU p£ 9qjL ( S9qDUT g (UIJB-9JOJ JO qiSu9j) 9JHSB9UJ \>z 9qjL ( S9qouT si 9q (uijb J9ddn jo q;Su9j) 9jtisb9uj:si 9q;jl •p9JTS9p sb qSjq sb 'j9pjnoqs 9q; jo do; 9q4 01 ( 9jnsB9iu qi9 9qi jo 9uq 9qi ujoj j ap9 under No. 5, and also short lines marking the angle where No. 1 joins No. 4, to serve as gauges and starting points.) As the length of the Basque is a matter of taste, it may be cut any desired length below the waist. The dart No. 10 will be continued to the bottom of Basque, according to the lines indicated. Some forms require nearly as wide a dart below the waist line as above it ; but more, require less. No. 9 is finished by two straight lines beginning at the lower edge of No. 5 and meeting in a point near or at the bottom of the Basque. No. 22 must be swung out from No. 6 as in the illustration, more or less according to the full- ness of the abdomen. This is the French (one dart), system and gives a more elegant fit to the waist, than any other. Some ladies, however, being accustomed to the American (or two darts) system, may still prefer it. For this form, set the index of No. 10 between 1 and 2, and place the point of the opening about 3^ from the outer edge of No. 6, and even with the middle of the hinge, and mark as before. Then place it again, parallel to the first dart, the point about 3 inches further back, and mark the second dart, which should be about 1 inch from the first on the waist line ; also make the under-arm dart (No. 9,) one inch wide at the waist line, instead of one and a half. If one does not wish for the under-arm dart, make the two front darts each two inches wide, (by setting the index point to 2) and then take up the small hip-gore or wrinkle, which forms itself when the under-arm dart is not used. Ladies, Gentlemen and Children, there is no System in the world so simple and so reliable, and which can be so quickly understood with as little practice. The width of the Back determines how large the Darts must be. As the whole waist measure is given in the Fronts, (one half on each Front) it follows that the extra size allowed by the back must be taken up in the darts. Thus : If the Back is 4 the Darts must take up 4 inches ; — i. e. 2y 2 on the front dart, and 1% on the under-arm dart. If the Back is 5, then the darts must take up 5 inches also, 3^ on the front, and 1^ on the side, &c, A very little practice will enable the most inexperi- enced to fit any Garment well and easily. For Night- dresses follow the same proportions, but allow from 2 to 4 numbers more on the shoulder measure and arm- scye ; the back form will be omitted, and the back cut nearly or quite as wide as the front. By allowing on the arm-scyes, back and front, the under-arm seams will be found to adjust themselves. Outside Garments can be marked and cut to fit exactly, by following the same directions as to shoulder measures and arm-scye. It is evident that the great resources of the Franco - American Form, adapt it to all ranges of measures, from the largest persons to the smallest children, and even to dolls. Herein it supplies a want that has never before been met, in fitting children's clothing, and it is a complete, always ready and entirely reliable friend and servant, to the Professional Dress Maker and the Household Seamstress. 16 o < m H 2 O fa fa fa O CO O H fa O fa o fa fa fa a H o 2 O X CO fa fa < CO fa fa D CO < fa h 2 fa fa fa fa fa fa J* o CO i S fa < Q 2 < ON CO ON VO LO vO oo <0 ON VO LO VO <0 rHhN 00 ** VO LO lO VO CO oo H VO LO iO lo to -4n rH|N LO <* LO r^ LO LO CO c*3 i-l|> u m o CD >> U CO I a < small arms, or where a very high shoulder is desired. In many cases the shoulder will be sufficiently high, if No. i is placed stationary to the ends of the lines by Nos. 3 and 4, and the whole curve marked at once without swinging. REMARKS AND HINTS. In taking the measures around the arm, bear in mind that they must be taken very loosely, as the sleeve makes up very much smaller than would seem probable. For instance, if the wrist measure is 8 inches, that is in reality the measure of the hand, as it must be large enough for the hand to pass through easily; then if the hand can easily pass through the tape held at 8 inches it will be found very tight for a finished sleeve, and almost impossible to pull off; one inch should be allowed in every nine inches where the measures are taken only sufficiently loose for the arm or hand to slip through easily. In taking the waist measures, it is to be observed that the measures must be taken rather loosely on thin people, and very tight on those who are very fleshy, and even then, one or two numbers less than the actual measure will be found large enough. The reason of this is that a superabundance of flesh interferes with the symmetry of proportion, and we allow for this disadvantage and partly overcome it by the preceding directions. In fact, there is no defect or disadvantage of personal form, which is not more completely remedied or concealed by the F. A. Form than by any other system of measuring or cutting Garments. For every garment depending from the shoulders for 15 and at 12 instead of 10, on No. 6 ; then for the under you must set it at 10 on No. 5, and at 8 on No. 6, letting the wrist remain unchanged, or only varied slightly, observing the same directions. When the Form is adjusted for the upper part of sleeve, mark across the top of No. 5, and the bottom of No. 7; then mark from 24 outside of No. 3, down to the bottom line of No. 7, and from the lower corner of No. 5 outside of No. 4, down to the bottom of No. 7. Then measure from No. 5 about half way between Nos. 3 and 4, 3 inches up, for the 6th measure, (height of shoulder) to the highest point of the shoulder, place the eyelet of No. 1 at that point, holding No. 1 face down, and secure the position with a pin through the eyelet and remove all the other parts. Then swing the shorter end of No. 1 down till the upper edge touches the end of the line made by No. 3, and mark from the eyelet to that point. Then swing the longer end down till the upper edge touches the end of the line drawn by No. 4, and mark from the eyelet down to that point. It is more convenient to remove the Form in order to mark the shoulder curve, provided the lines have been made accurately, and not too long. For the under part of sleeve, turn the cloth the other side up, and adjust the Form as has been directed, and mark all around precisely as before and remove the Form. Then take No. 1 face up, eyelet turned down- ward, set the arrow point S to the top of inside line of sleeve, % inch in, to allow for seam, and bring the outer edge to the end of outside line, ^ inch in, also to allow for seam. No. 2 is a shorter, sharper curve, more suited for 14 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ill 11 ,11111 I1UI Hill Hill inn inn inn ltul HHl HW UtU I 013 964 920 5 G. H. Roberts, Pr., 831 Arch Street. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 964 920 5