LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDD13flS4Dm A _»i s « » / '7^ > \^- i>^ » ^ ,.rrt %_, ^ , .. -^ ^O \D ^ , ;. ■* ,0^ .-^\.'^ ^ '/. C ^^._ "o nO^'\V '^' *o.o^ ^V ^^^^ -^. ^\o^ % APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OB" AMEEICAIN^ TEAVEL. CONTAINING C V A PULL DESCRIPTION j OF THE PRINCIPAL •^^ CITIES, TOWIS, AND PLACES OF INTEREST: TOGETHER > WITH THE ROUTES OF TRAVEL, AND LEADING HOTELS THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES AND BRITISH PEOYINCES.\i\ BY EDWARD H. HALL. ILLUSTRATED WITH COPIOUSMAPS. NINTH ANNUAL EDITION ■ NEW TOEK: 1). APPLETOF & CO., 443 & 445 BEOADWAY. LONDON: TEUBNER & CO. 1867. NOTICE. No expense or labor will be spared to make the Hand-Book of American Travel attractive, comprehensive, concise, and every way reliable. The next American Edition will be published in May, 1868, and any information in regard to errors and omissions, which those who use this work may detect, or any facts of interest and value — particularly in respect to new routes and accommoda- tions — will be gratefully received and considered. Such communications should be addressed to the Editor, care of the Publishers. The population of Cities and Towns mentioned in this work are those given in the last National Census — 1860 — except when otherwise stated. '^g' Advertisers wishing to change or discontinue their advertisements, will please to inform the Editor to such effect, on or before April 1st of each year, that the necessary alterations may be made in time for the new edition. The Editor of " Appletons' Hand-Book " is alone responsible for the information contained in its pages. No other person is authorized to procure advertisements, or receive money or other favors from Hotel-keepers or Tradesmen on account of the Hand-Book, as recommendations in this work are not to be purchased ; they are the result of personal experience or disinterested information only ; and when houses here represented fail to fulfil their obligations to the public, they will be stricken from its pages. 3i /^^ Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by D. APPLETON & CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the "Dnited States for the Southern District of New York. PKEEACE. To meet the increased and steadily increasing demand for a reliable Tourists' Guide and Hand-Book of Travel in the United States and British Provinces, this work has been specially pre- pared, and will hereafter be published annually on the 1st of May. Accuracy, conciseness, and above all a just discrimination of the relative importance of the several objects described, have been the chief aims of the compiler; and it is confidently believed that the following pages embody a larger amount of desirable in- formation for the traveller in this country, than can be found in any other single work extant. While the original plan of the work has been preserved, numer- ous important additions have been made, not least of which are the copious, well-engraved maps, routes, and tables of distances. The difficulty attending the compilation of such a work as this is too well known to need more than passing mention here. How far this difficulty has been increased by the numerous changes conse- quent upon the late war, and the rapid growth of our "Western Ter- ritories, the intelligent reader can well imagine. While the " Hand- Book " is mainly the result of the editor's own personal observation, he having visited every section of the Union during its preparation, it is also largely made up from the writings and experiences of iv PREFACE. Others, to whom the author returns his grateful acknowledgments. A list of the authorities quoted from will be found in its appropriate place. An analytical table of contents and a complete alphabet- ical index are added, which exhibit at a glance the variety and character of the subjects referred to in the work, and greatly facil itate reference thereto. OOl^TEB'TS. [For names of Ebtds, Description of Boufes, Cities, Towns, fzUages, and Objects qf Interest, see General Index.'] INTKODUCTOET EEMAEKS. Some Parting Words to the Traveller, of Explanation and Advice, Plan of the Book ; Money, Travelling Expenses, Baggage, Hotels, Waiters, etc. ; Tickets, Outfits, Costumes, Insurance, Steamship Lines, Obligations, etc. ; the Traveller's Almanac, Memoranda, etc. THE UNITED STATES. Extent, Divisions, Population, etc., 1-4. NEW YORK, - . 5 New York City, 6 ; Brooklyn, 24 ; Staten Island, 28 ; Long Island, 29 ; Trip up the Hudson . River, 33 ; the Kaatskills, 40 ; Lake Mahopac, 45 ; Saratoga Springs, 46 ; Lake Cham- plain, 50 ; New York and Erie Railway, 51 ; Niagara Falls, 58 ; the Adirondack Moun- tains, Saranac Lakes, etc., 64; Trenton Falls, 67. CONNECTICUT 70 New Haven and Yale College, 71 ; Hartford and Trinity College, 72. RHODE ISLAND, 76 Providence and Vicinity, 76 ; Newport, 78 ; Woonsocket, 79. MASSACHUSETTS, 80 Routes, New York to Boston, 81 ; Boston and vicinity, 81 ; the State-House, 85 ; Hai-vard University, 87 ; Mount Auburn, 88 ; Nahant, 90 ; Plymouth Rock, 91 ; Cambridge, 92 ; Lowell, 94 ; the Connecticut Valley, 96. NEW HAMPSHIRE, 101 Concord, 103; Dartmouth College, 105; Lake Winnipisaukee, 106; the White Moun- tains, 108. VERMONT, . 114 WinoosM Valley and Mount Mansfield, 115 ; Lake Memphremagog, 117. MAINE, 119 Portland, 120 ; Augusta, 132 ; Mount Katahdin, 124 ; the Kennebec River, 125. NEW JERSEY, . 126 Routes to Philadelphia, etc., 126; Princeton and Trenton, 138; Burlington, 129 ; Long Branch, 130 ; Cape May, 131 ; Schooley's Mountain and Greenwood Lake, 132. DELAWARE, 133 Wilmington and Vicinity, 134 ; the Eastern Shore, 136 ; Havre de Grace, 136. vi CONTENTS. PENNSYLVANIA, Page 138 The Susquchamia, 161 ; Philadelphia, 139 ; Laurel Hill, 150 ; the Schuylkill and Vicinage, 152; Harrisburg, 150; the Juniata River, 158; Pittsburg, 159; Meadville and the Oil Kegion, 163 ; Bethlehem and the Moravian College, 166 ; the Wyoming Valley, 167 ; Gettysburg, 109 ; Bedford Springs, 171. OHIO, 172 Cincinnati, 173 ; Vicinity, 17C ; Hamilton and Toledo, 177. INDIANA, 182 Indianapolis, 183 ; TeiTe Haute, etc., 184 ILLINOIS, 180 Chicago, 188 ; Springfield and Oak Kidge, 194 ; Galena and its Lead Mines, 197 ; Cairo, 198. UnSSOUEI, 199 Eivers, 200; St. Louis, 201 ; Jefferson City, 204; St. Joseph, 204. IOWA, 806 Dubuque, Burlington, and other Cities and To^vns, 20T. MINNESOTA, 210 Its Lakes and Rivers, 211; St. Paul and Vicinity, 213; Falls of St. Anthony, 313; Fort Snelling, 314 ; the Minnesota Valley, 316 ; Stillwater and Lake St. Croix, 217 ; Wi- nona, 318. WISCONSIN, 319 ItsEivers, etc., 320; Milwaukee, 221 ; Madison, 222; GreenBayandits Surroundings, 234. MICHIGAN, 226i,i Detroit, 237 ; Grand Eapids, Kalamazoo, and other Cities and Towns, 239. KANSAS, 230 Leavenworth, Lawrence, and other Towns, 333. | NEBRASKA, ~ . 233 Omaha City and Vicinity, 333. CALIFORNIA, 235 Its Discovery, History, and Settlement, 235 ; Voyage from New York, 336 ; San Francisco, 240 ; Sacramento, 344 ; Mount Shasta, 346 ; Nevada Mountains, 348 ; Lake Tahoe, 351 the Geysers, 353; Stockton and the Big" Tree Groves, 253; the Yo-Semite Valley, 257 San Jose and the Almaden IVIines, 259 ; Voyage fi-om San Francisco up the Coast, 203 Routes and distances, 264. |'jj OREGON, 265 The Columbia and Willamette Rivers, 300 ; Mount Hood and the Cascade Range, 366 ; Portland and Routes thence, 267. WASHINGTON, 269 Olympia and Puget Sound, 370 ; Trip to the British Possessions, 270. ARIZONA, 2711 NEW MEXICO, . . . . . . . . 273 NEVADA, 275 Virginia, Carson, Austin, and other Towns, 275. UTAH, 277 Great Salt Lake City and its Institutions, 278. CONTENTS. vii IDAHO, Page 280 Boise City, Lewiston, and other Cities and Towns, 280. MONTANA, ... 283 Koutes from Great Salt Lake City, 282 ; Virginia City and Helena, 283. COLORADO, , . 284 Denver and its Vicinity, 284 ; Koutes, etc., 285. DACOTAH, . . .... . . . . ... . . . 286. MARYLAND, 291 Baltimore and Vicinity, 292 ; Chesapeake Bay, 299 ; Baltimore and Ohio Eailway, 301 ; Places and Objects of Interest, 305. DISTEICT OF COLLTVLBIA, 311 Washington City and Vicinity, 311 ; Alexandria, 321 ; Mount Vernon, 323. VIRGINIA, 325 Richmond, 328 ; Norfolk, 330 ; Williamsburg, 331 ; Fredericksburg, 333 ; Charlottesville, 334; Monticello and Winchester, 335; the Springs, etc., 336. TOETH CAROLINA, . 344 Raleigh, Wilmington, and other Cities, 345 ; Mountain Region, etc., 347. ;OUTH CAROLINA, . . 349 Charleston and Vicinity, 350; Beaufort and the Lowlands, 355; Mountain Villages and Scenery, ,359 ; TorkviUe and Vicinity, 360. GEORGIA, 362 Savannah and Vicinity, 364; Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, Milledgeville, and other Cities, 36T ; the Mount>ain Region, 3T0 ; Toccoa and TaUulah Falls, 371 ; the Springs, 373. LORIDA, 375 St. John's and St. Mary's Rivers, 376 ; St. Augustine and Vicinity, 377. .LABAMA, 381 Mobile and Vicinity, 382 ; Montgomery, 384 ; Tuscaloosa, HuntsvOle, and other Cities, 384 ; the Hill Region, 385. nSSISSIPPI, 386 Jackson, 387 ; Vicksbm'g, Natchez, HoUy Springs, etc., 388. OUISIANA. 389 New Orleans and Vicinity, 390 ; Railways and Routes, 399 ; Baton Rouge, 401. EXAS, 403 Galveston, 404 ; Austin, Houston, and San Antonio, 405. RKANSAS, 407 Little Rock, Fort Smith, Camden, 408. ENNESSEE, 409 NashviUe and Vicinity, 410 ; Memphis, Chattanooga, and Lookout Mountain, etc., 412. ENTUCKT, 414 Louisville and Vicinity, 415 ; Lexington and other Towns, 417 ; " Ashland " and " Wood- bum," 418; the Mammoth Cave, 419. viii CONTENTS. THE OmO EIVER, Page 4Sl From Pittsburg to Cairo. THE MISSISSIPPI RIYER, . . . ... . , From Cairo to New Orleans. THE BEITISH PROVINCES. CANADA, *. 4! Geography, Discovery, Government, etc, 435 ; Springs, Waterfalls, etc., 436 ; Montrea 437 ; Montreal to Niagara Falls by Steamer, 440 ; Ottawa and the Rideau Falls, 44Ii Toronto and Hamilton, 443 ; the Lake Region, 444 ; Quebec, 446 ; the Sagaenay, 449. NEW BRUNSWICK, 4' The St. John River and Scenery, 452; Fredericton, St. Andrews, and other Towns, 453. NOVA SCOTIA, ■ 4 Its Coast, Rivers, Lakes, and BaySj 454 ; Halifax and Vicinity, 455. INTRODUCTION. THE PLAN OF THE BOOK. In preparing the nintli year's issue of " Appletons' Hakd-Book," the editor lias thought it best to continue the original plan of the work, and follow the familiar geographical order of the several States, as that best adapted to the special tastes and convenience of travellers wishing to visit the respective points and objects of interest. Thus, in making the " South- ern Tour," the traveller starting from New York finds his true "point of departure " at Baltimore, in the chapter on Maryland. Continuing his route thence by steamer or rail, the Guide accompanies him through Vir- ginia and the Carolinas to the Gulf coast, and up the valley of the Lower Mississippi, till he finally reaches Louisville, Cincinnati, or St. Louis, on his return northward. The same with the Eastern, Northern, Pacific, and Canadian tours. Instead of selecting a particular route, and seeing all it offers of attraction, we have, with few exceptions, jumped at once to our especial destination, and then intimated the way by which it is reached. Thus, if the traveller happens to be in New York and desires to go to New Orleans, he will, by turning to New Orleans, in the chapter on Louisiana, find the routes thither. The chief cities are taken as starting-points for all other and lesser places in their neighborhood. Thus Philadelphia is made the point of radiation for Pennsylvania ; Charleston and Columbia for South Carolina ; Boston for Massachusetts ; Nashville for Tennessee ; San Francisco for California and the Pacific Coast, and so on. It has not, of course, been possible to mention every village or town in the Union, in the narrow limits of a pocket-volume like this. Sketches of many places which, owing to the difficulty of reaching them, are unavoidably left out, wiU, it is hoped, appear in future editions of the work. MONEY. United States Treasury notes (greenlacks) are everywhere current through- out the country. Gold and silver readily pass, but as they command a X INTRODUCTION. premium over paper, and are, moreover, less jjortable, tliey are less clesii able for the ti'aveller's- use. In California gold and silver are in gen cral circulation, and tlie traveller will find it convenient to use tber. in place of Treasury notes. The notes of Eastern banks should, on n account, be taken, as they may sometimes subject the holder to annoyance The safest and most convenient shape in which to put your money for cuii rent expenses on long trips is that of letters of credit or circular notes — th former being preferable. These are issued by the leading banking-house in New York and elsewhere in the United States. The well-known bank ing firms of Duncan, Sherman & Company, and Brown Brothers & Co. issue such letters, jjayable in all the principal Southern and Western citic; Their announcements will be found in oiir advertising columns. A reason; able supply of fractional currency (" stamps ") will save the traveller frei quent inconvenience in making change at railway stations, omnibui stands, etc. i t TEAYELLING EXPENSES. ' This is a sufiiciently important feature of the trip to merit a separate consideration. The cost of living and /ravelling throughout the Northerri and Southern States, with few exceptions, has materially increased since the war. Six to seven dollars a day will be found a fair estimate. (Foi hotel expenses, see Hotels.) BAGGAGE, " As little baggage as possible " is always a good rule, though a liberal supply is permitted on the railways, and almost any quantity on the steam- boats. On stage lines the prescribed limit of sixty to eighty pounds cani not be exceeded without extra charge. The "check" system, so univer-i sally practised throughout the North, has been pretty generally adopted; on th.e Southern lines of railway. Many of the omnibus lines in the South-i ern and far Western cities are reaping an ill-gotten harvest by imposing on the ignorance and credulity of strangers in this regard. As a general rule, the traveller will best consult Ms own convenience and interest by retaining his check until he ari-ives at his destination, and then proceeding to his hotel in a carriage with his baggage. If you purchase an omnibus ticket you have, in most instances, to pay separately for your baggage, either to the agent in the cars or in settling your bill at the hotel. In travelling by stage, or in making short trips from the centres of travel to the interior, a carpet-bag or small valise will be found the most convenient form of baggage, as in many instances it will be requisite for the traveller to pisLj the part of porter. INTRODUCTION. xi HOTELS. Witli few exceptions, the hotels of the princijpal cities South and West '"'Will compare favorably with those of the older and more thickly settled It Actions of the country, and perforce with those of any other part of the world. Barnum's and the Eutaw, in Baltimore ; the Metropolitan and Ebbett, in Washington ; the Exchange and Ballard's, in Eichmond ; the 'liEMills House and Charleston Hotel, in Charleston; the Pulaski and the * Marsh all House in Savannah ; the St. Louis and St. Charles, in New Or- eans ; the Louisville, in Louisville ; the Southern and Everett Hotels (the Lindell Hotel rebuilding), in St. Louis ; and the Sherman and Tremont Houses, in Chicago, are all strictly first-class establishments. The charges at '"•these houses range from $3.50 to $5.00 per day, which includes everything except private parlors, wines, and extra attendance. Four dollars per day, or $28.00 a week, will be found a safe average. Other houses of good repute, having the best hotel accommodation the several cities afford, will be found throughout the work. Among the most desirable hotels in New York are the Fifth Avenue Hotel and the Hoffman House, on Madison quare, at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue ; the Everett House, occupying a conspicuous and eligible situation at the north end of Union Square, and the Brevoort Hou.se on Fifth Avenue, at its intersection with Eighth Street (Clinton Place). The last-named house has one of the most delightful locations in the city, combining the quiet retirement of a private mansion with ready access to Broadway and the leading thorough- fares. This has always been a favorite stopping-place with Eurojoeans visiting the United States. The plan upon which it is kept, and the sys- tem adoj)ted by its proprietary, being such as to specially commend it to those accustomed to European habits. From the observatory of the Fifth Avenue Hotel a fine view of the city and the neighboring bay is to be had. The house is fitted with a passenger-elevator, or vertical railway, for the use of guests. Those fond of the quiet and retirement of private life com- bined with the luxuries of hotel cuisine, will find the Everett a desirable stopping-place. The Hoffman House has been recently (1865) opened, and the furniture is new and of the best quality. The Hoffman is conducted on the European plan. The cuisine and attendance are excellent. For those who decide to make a stay in Philadelphia, on their way South or West, the Continental is the most desirable hotel. The well-known repu- tation of this fine house is well sustained by its present management, Messrs. Kingsley & Co. In Boston the Eevere and Tremont, American and United States, are the best worthy of patronage. The two former are especially adapted to families. The Lick House, and the Occidental and Cosmopolitan Hotels, in San Francisco, are admirably conducted establish- ments. Travellers through Canada will find the best accommodation at the xii INTRODUCTION. St. Lawrence Hall in Montreal, and at Russell's and tlie St. Louis i Quebec. WAITERS OR SERVANTS. It is not the custom in America, as in Europe, to fee waiters at i\ hotels, though it may very properly be done for especial personal servic It is often done by those who j)refer hot dinners to cold when they happe to " come late," or who may have a fancy for some rare dish when it uii luckily happens to be " all out." Waiters, especially the " unprofessionals. who largely outnumber the " regular hands," are frequently guilty of in pertinences in large poj)ular hotels. A word to the steward or head-waite a functionary always at hand in every well-regulated hotel dining-roon will speedily put matters right. On the other hand, let gentlemen remen ber that it is impossible for a waiter, however proficient, to wait on mo] i than one at a time and do it well. By due attention to these matter much needless annoyance will be saved. TICKETS. Tickets on the railways should be purchased at the railway office befoi | starting, otherwise a small additional charge will be made. If a Ion journey over various roads is intended, it is cheaper and more convenier to buy a tlirough ticket to the end of the route, or for as long a distance i possible. What are called "lay-over" or accommodation tickets, affordin opportunities to the traveller to visit points of interest on his line of routi can always be obtained on the leading through-lines. On the steamboal the tickets for passage, for meals, and berths, can be purchased at tli passenger's leisure at the " captain's office," OUTFITS, COSTUMES, Etc. At the springs and watering-places of the South and West, generally the same resources of toilet will be found necessary as in the city salon c the most fashionable resorts of the North — that is, for the ladies. The gei tlemen will best consult their own tastes and circumstances as regards thei wardrobe and outfit generally. Let me advise my reader, however, wha ci ever else he may omit to take, not to fail to supply himself with a trave ling suit equal to the wear and tear of rough mountain life. If the cole; be a gray or a brown, so much the better in the dust of railway and stag routes. Get a felt hat — ^it is not readily crushed on your head in car or cai riage, or blown overboard from steamboats. Storm, 178 Broadway, unde the Howard Hotel, has a fine assortment. Leave thin boots (this especiall to the ladies) at home, and go well and comfortably shod in stout calfsTcii It is a pity to be kej)t in-doors by the fear of spoiling one's gaiters or wel' ting one's feet, when the meadows and hills and brooks are inviting yo abroad. In mountain tramps, a generous-sized flask may be slung over th Si! iteii INTKODUCTIO^. xiii ihoulder witli very picturesque effect. If filled witli generous " coguac," beware of too picturesque an effect, especially if you be in the company of ^ certain party. In the "way of clothing, the traveller cannot do better than call on Mr. Russell, No. 835 Broadway, corner of Thirteenth Street. All the gar- ments made by this long-established and well-known house are adapted to the wants of gentlemen of taste who appreciate style and quality in lothing. Brownell (late Brownell & Marvin), at No. 503 Broadway, in the St. p^Ticholas block, keeps a fine assortment of ready-made clothing and fur- nishing goods. A good trunk is an indispensable article of outfit for either lady or gentleman, Messrs. J. T. Smith & Co., at 344 Broadway, have the most extensive assortment in the city, embracing every kind of travelling pack- age from the largest sized " Saratoga," down to the smallest valise, carpet- sack, and haversack. Their goods are of the best quality and make. Edwin A. Brooks's boot and shoe store is at 575 Broadway, convenient ;to the principal hotels. His stock of ready-made custom-work is large, and his fits are warranted. By leaving their measure, parties going into ^he interior can be supplied at any given point. linj! Mr. Union Adams, at No. 637 Broadway, offers opportunities for making selections in gentlemen's furnishing goods unequalled elsewhere in New York. His stock is large and rich, embracing every thing in that line till required by the most fastidious. His assortment of shawls, travelling- bags, neglige shirts, scarfs, ties, etc., is especially complete. Berrian's house-furnishing store, on Broadway, is an excellent place to purchase goods. Semmons, at 669^ Broadway, under the Southern Hotel, has the best assortment of field, marine, and opera glasses to be found in New York. To the citizens of New York, not less than to those visiting it during the spring and early summer months, mineral waters and baths have be- come a necessity. Dr. Hanbury Smith's famous mineral-water establish- velfment, "The Spa," is pleasantly and centrally located at No. 808 Broadway, ,)lo:near its intersection with Eleventh Street, Its health-giving waters, agree- able shade, and proximity to other objects of interest, combine to make it one of the pleasantest lounging-places of the metropolis. Baths are to be had at the Hygienic Institute and Bathing Establishment, No. 15 Laight lllStreet. It is a well-arranged and well-conducted establishment. Messrs, Miller, Wood & Co., proprietors. INSURANCE. Having laid in your necessary supplies, it only remains for you to insure yourself against accidents by sea or land, and the editor of the " Hand- Xiv INTRODUCTION. - \[ Book " having had recent experience in that line, would advise you iii.^ x.1 omit to insure. The Travellers' Insurance Company of Hartford, whicl embraces several of the most reliable companies in the United States has its New York office at No. 207 Broadway. Policies are issued good fo; one year, one month, or one day. Mr. Rodney Dennis is the secretary and 5' Mr. R. M. Johnson the general agent of the company. STEAMSHIP LINES. The several lines of passenger steamships running between New York Baltimore, Savannah, Charleston, New Orleans, and San Francisco, afford except during inclement weather, the most pleasant means of reaching the Southern and Pacific States. The leading and best-conducted lines oJ, steamers now in operation from New York to our domestic ports are thci following : For Norfolk., Gity Pointy anU, Biclimond. — The steamers of the Old Linc;^ (New York and Virginia Company) sail every Wednesday and Saturday ai- 3 p. M. for Norfolk and all points on the James River. The boats are com i modious and well-officered. G-. Heineken & Palmore, 115 BroadwayJi agents. The boats of the Old Dominion Steamship Comijany leave same| | days at noon. N. L. McOrady, 187 G-reenwich Street, agent. From Baltimore, the steamers Geo. Leary and Louisiana offer every in ducement to travellers. For Charleston. — The Messrs Leary dispatch one of their fine steamers from Pier No. 14, E. R., every Satmxlay at 3 o'clock. The Granada and Saragossa have first-class accommodations for cabin passengers. For Bavannali. — Messrs. Garrison & Allen, 5 Bowling Green, and Livingston, Fox & Co., dispatch regular steamers weekly for Savannah where immediate connection is made with the boats leaving that port foi St. Augustine, Pilatka, and other j)oints in Florida. The favorite side wheel steamships " San Jacinto " and " San Salvador " belong to the for- mer, and the " Hermann Livingston " and " General Barnes " to the lattcj line. Invalids bound for the Florida water-cures have ample choice he- tween the boats comprising either of these fine lines. For New Orleans. — Cromwell's line of first-class steamships, one of v/hieb leaves Pier No. 9, N. R., every Saturday at 3 p. m., has the confidence of|| the public. The Coastwise Company also dispatch a steamer every "Wednesday from Pier No. 29, foot of Warren Street. Mr. D. N. Carring- ton, at 177 West Street, is the agent. ' The steamers of the Atlantic CoastJlti Mail SteamshiiJ Company sail for New Orleans, semi-monthly, on the 1st and 15th of each month. For California. — The best line for San Francisco and all points on thei'^ili South Pacific and Central American coast is unquestionably that of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. It is a through line, connecting at|' I pi I Pi (U INTRODUCTION. XV ma with the company's line of steamers on the Pacific. Three depart- :c|res each month, viz., on the 1st, 11th, and 21st. The boats of this line re ajjpointed, equipped, and officered equal, and as regards many impor- fo ant details superior, to the best European steamships. The passage to anc an Francisco is made by the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company in wenty-two days. The general office of the line is over the new banking- ouse of Messrs. Brown Brothers, 59 & 61 "Wall Street. Shipping and ticket ffice, Pier No. 42, foot of Canal Street. OBLIGATIONS. Our obligations are due to the entire United States and Canadian Press ov their unceasing endeavors to keep us informed of the rapid changes *' ranspiring in their respective localities, as well as for their numerous con- ributions to local and state history, descriptive sketches, etc., etc. Below '"'i^ill be found a list of authorities referred to in the work. ^'' "We are specially indebted to Mi\ C. E. Watkins,* and Messrs. Lawrence nd Houseworth, of San Francisco, for their fine pictures of scenery in Cali- arnia and on the Pacific coast; to Mi-. Edward Vischer, of San Francisco, f)r his fine collection of drawings in the same region ; to Messrs Savage Jid Ottinger, of Great Salt Lake City ; to Mr. Eugene Pifiet, of ISTew Or- feans; Mr. Saucier, of Mobile; Mi*. Linn, of Chattanooga, and other photo- 'raphic artists throughout the Union who have kindly furnished us with iews of prominent objects of interest in their several localities. We re- Tet that lack of time and space compel us to exclude their contributions [•om our pages. It is decided to make future issues of the Hand-book niform in style and appearance with the present work. For much valuable information contained in the following pages we re indebted to the recently-published Directories of New York, Philadel- hia, Boston, New Orleans, Baltimore, Mobile, Cincinnati, Memphis, Chi- ago, St. Louis, San Francisco, Albany, Milwaukee, Richmond, Va., St. *aul, Virginia City, Nevada, Portland, Oregon, and Austin, Nevada. We are also under obligations to Mr. A. Gensoul, of San Francisco, for set of his recently published maps. Thankful to one and all for their valuable assistance, we shall endeavor merit a continuance of their favors. AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO IN THE WORK. .rizona and Sonora, by Sylvester Mo wry. Speeches and Letters of Governor Richard 0. McCormiek. Forth Carolina, Historical Sketches of, by John H. Wheeler. aUfornia Guide, etc., by J. M. Hutchings. * Views of the To-Semite Valley by this clevc-r artist can be obtained in New York of the litor. Xvi INTRODUCTION. Second Ascent of Mount Shasta. — J. McKee. Maple Leaves-Legends, Historical and Critical Papers on Canada, by J. M. Le Moine Quebec. The Canadian Hand-Book, by J. Taylor. A Run through Canada, by E. Hepple Hall. Colorado. Letters on, to the Nevi York Tribune, by A. D. Richardson. Sketches, by Bayard Taylor. Denver, History of. — D. 0. Wilhelra. Guide to the Connecticut Valley. — H. M. Bent. The Great West, Guide and Hand-book to. The Mammoth Cave, Guide to.— C. W. Wright. Statistical Gazetteer of Maryland. Boston, Guide to City and Suburbs. — R. L. Midgley. Missouri, Hand-book to. — ^N. H. Parker. Saint Louis, Narrative of Settlement. — A. Chouteau. Minnesota, Prize Essays by Messrs. M. J. Colbum and W. R. Smith. New York, Sanitary Condition of. — Citizens' Association. Manual of Common Council. — D. T. Valentine. Guide to Central Park. — T. Addison Richards. Albany, Random Recollections of. — G. A. Worth, Hudson River, Guide to. — T. Addison Richards. The Catskills, Scenery of. Forest Acadia. — T. 0. H. P. Bumham. Eastman's White Mountain Guide. Pacific Coast Directory, 1865-'66.— H. G. Langley. Pennsylvania, Valley of Wyoming. The Oil Region of, by H. H. Simmons. Philadelphia, Strangers' Guide. — Lindsay and Blakiston. As It Is, by R. A. Smith. Laurel Hill Cemetery, Guide to. — ^R. A. Smith. NcTvport, Rhode Island, Illustrated. — George C. Mason. Geological Reconnoissance of Tennessee. — Jas. M. Safford. Salt Lake, Exploration and Survey of. — Captain H. Stansbury. The City of the Saints, by Richard P. Burton. The National Almanac, 1865. Military and Naval History of the Rebellion. — W. J. Tenney. Field-Book of the Revolution, \ Pictorial History of the Civil War, [• by B. J. Lossing. Biography of Eminent Americans, ) Panama Railroad Guide, by Dr. F. N. Otis. Pacific and Territorial Guide. — S. M. Holdridge. We regret that tlie Pacific Coast Directory (1867), just published oy Mr. Henry G. Langley, and a valuable historical work on the discovery of gold; in Califoruia, by Mr. Edward E. Dunbar, President of the Travellers' Club,l N. y., did not reach us in time for our chapter on that region, j :,{ ■ar APPLETOl^S' HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL. THE UOTTED STATES. The territory of the United States, through which we propose to travel 1 our present volume, occupies an area of 2,936,166 square miles, little less lan that of the entire continent of Europe, In form it is nearly a paral- logram, with an average length of 2,400 miles from east to west, and a ean breadth from north to south of 1,300 miles. It lies between 24° )', and 49° north latitude, and between 60° 50' and 124° 30' west longi- me. ExTEJTT. — Its extreme length and breadth are, respectively, 2,700 and 600 miles, reaching from the Atlantic on the east to the Pacific on the west, id from British America on the north to the Gulf of Mexico and the exican Eepublic on the south. The entire frontier line slightly exceeds ),000 miles in length. Divisions. — Its present division is into thirty-six States and nine Terri- ries, independent of the District of Columbia. The States have been popu- Irly grouped according to their geographical position into the following ivisions or sections, viz. : The Eastern or ISTew England group, embracing tiine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Ehode Island, and Oon- cticnt ; the Middle group, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Dela- ire, and Maryland ; the Southern States : Virginia, North Carolina, South irolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, and •kansas ; and the Western States, comprising Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, diana, Illinois, Michigan, loAva, "Wisconsin, Missom-i, California, Oregon, nnesota, Kansas, and Nebraska. All the Territories, viz., Utah, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Dakotah, izona, Washington, New Mexico, and Indian Territory, are included in 1 1 THE UNITED STATES. this division of the country. The District of Columbia is a small territory set apart as the seat of the National Government. The following table shows the census of the respective States and divisions by the last United States census (1860) : The District of Columbia (D. C.) 75,076 THE EASTERN, OR NEW ENGLAND STATES. Connecticut (Conn.) 460,151 Ehode Island (R. I.) 174,621 Massachusetts (Mass.) 1,231,065 NewHampshire(X. H.)... 826,072 Vermont (Yt.) 315,116 Maine (Me.) 628,276 Total 3,135,301 THE MIDDLE STATES. New York (N. T.) 3,887,542 New Jersey (N. J.) 672,031 Pennsylvania (Pa.) 2,906,370 Delaware (Del.) 112,2181 Maryland (Md.) 487,034 [ Total 8,265,192 i THE SOUTHERN STATES. Virginia (Va.) 1,596,083 North Carolina (N. C). . . 992,667 South Carolina (S. C.) . . . . 703,812 Georgia (Ga.) 1,057,327 Florida (Fla.) 140,439 Alabama (Ala.) 964,29f Louisiana (La.) 709,43? Texas (Tes.) 601, 03( Mississippi (Miss.) 791, 39f Arkansas (Ark.) 435,42 , Total 7,991, 90£ THE WESTERN STATES. Tennessee (Tenn.) 1,109,847 Kentucky (Ky.) 1,155,713 Ohio(0.) 2,339,599 Indiana (la.) 1,350,479 Minnesota (Minu .) 1 72, 022 Illinois (HI.) 1,711,753 Michigan (Mich.) 749,112 Wisconsin (Wis.) 775,873 Total Iowa(Io.) 674,94; Missouri (Mo.) 1,183,31'i Orea;on (Or.) 52,464 California (Cal.) 380,01.^ Kansas (Kan.) 107,11( Nebraska (Neb.) 28,84^ Nevada 6,85*; New Mexico 93,541 Washington 11,578 Utah 40,295 Colorado 34,197 Montana (1865), estimated 25,000 TERRITORIES. Dakotah Idaho (1865), estimated Arizona (1865), estimated. . . Indian Ter. (1865), estimated .11,797,95: 4,83l 25,00( 15,001 4,00i Total 253,45' Grand total. 2 31,518,88 THE UNITED STATES. Of the free population in 1860, 23,353,386 were born in tlie United States, and 4,186,175 in foreign countries. In addition to the above, it is estimated tliat nearly half a million of Indians or aborigines exist within the present territory of the United States. The number of these is, how- ever, rapidly diminishing. The population of the country is largely and steadily augmented by emigration. From 184T to 1860, 2,598,214 emigrants arrived, and since the close of the late war the number of arrivals has averaged two hundred and fifty thousand a year. They come mainly from Germany and the British isles. GovEENMEN'T. — The government of the United States is a confederation of the several States delegating a portion of their power to a central govern- ment, whose laws are always paramount to State authority. The governing power is divided into legislative, judicial, and executive. The Executive power is vested in a President and Yioe-President, elected by the people, who hold their term of oflBlce for four years. The legislative power is ex- ercised by a Congress composed of two branches, a Senate and House of Eepresentatives ; the former representing the several States in their sover- eign capacity, and the House of Eepresentatives the people. The members of the ISTational Legislature are respectively known as Senators, members of Congress, and delegates or Territorial members. The Congress is held annually at "Washington. The judiisiary consists of a suj)reme court, nine circuit, and forty-seven district-courts. The supreme court is presided over by a chief and eight associate justices, who hold their appointmenta during life or good behavior. HiSTOET, Etc. — The earliest settlements within the present territory of the United States were made in Florida, about 1565 ; but as this State was 4fi not acquired till 1819, it is usual to date the commencement of the settle- lili ment of the colonies which formed the foundation of the present Union, ■1" From the settlement of Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607. New York was set- '^.i iled by the Dutch, in 1614; Massachusetts, at Plymouth, in 1620; and New _ Hampshire and Maine in 1623. "Washington, D. C, is the capital of the ,9o CTnited States, and New York its chief commercial city. Next to the latter ;he most important cities are Philadelphia, Baltimore. Boston, Brooklyn, !:^'ew Orleans, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Chicago, San Francisco, Buffalo, Pitts- i,™ jurg, Newark, LouisviUe, Albany, and Providence. .'■iD The military history of the nation is properly divided into four periods or ijlO jpochs, known respectively as the "War of the Revolution, the "War of 1812, he "War with Mexico, and the Eebellion. The first and most eventful of hese closed with the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, October 19, .781. The war of 1812 is conspicuous for the battles of Lundy's Lane and 3 \$ THE UNITED STATES. JSTew Orleans, the former of which was fought July 25, 1814, and the latter January 8, 1815. The war with Mexico commenced May 8, 1846, and vir- tually closed with the occupation of the city of Mexico (September 20, 1847) by the United States forces under General Scott. The late Eebellion com- menced with the attack on Fort Sumter, in the harbor of Cliarleston, South Carolina (April 11, 1861), and closed with the occupation of Eichmond and the surrender of Generals Lee and Johnston, April, 1865. The leading military movements which have at different times been carried on within the territory of the United States wiU be found briefly recorded in the chapters descriptive of the localities in which they occurred^ as will also the leading subjects of interest throughout the country. New Yokk ] NEW YORK. [New York. NEW YORK The first State in the Union in popula- tion, in wealth, and in commercial import- ance, exceeded by none in the fertility of its soil and the healthfulness of its cli- mate, unsurpassed in the variety and beauty of its natural scenery, and in its historical associations, New York is ap- propriately called the Empire State. Its length from east to west is 835 miles, and its breadth about 300 miles, embracing an area of about 30,000,000 acres. The earliest settlements within the State were made by the Dutch, at Fort Orange (Albany), and at New Amster- dam, now New York City. This was in 1614, five years after the voyage of Hendrick Hudson up the waters of that river which now bears his name. In 1664 the colony fell into the posses- sion of the English, was recaptured by the Dutch in 16^3, and finally came again under British rule in 16*74, and so con- tinued until the period of the Revolution. Many stirring events transpired within this territory during the wars between France and England, in 1690, 1702, and 1744, and through all the years of the War of Independence. These events the traveller will find duly chronicled as he reaches the various locations where they transpired, in the course of our proposed travels. Every var iety of surface and every char- acter of physical aspect are found within the great area of New York ; vast fer- tile plaius and grand mountain ranges, meadows of richest verdure, and wild forest tracts, lakes innumerable and of infinite variety in size and beauty, water- falls unequalled on the continent for ex- tent and grandeur, and rivers matchless in picturesque charms. We need not now recount these wonders, as our rambles will aiford us, by and by, abundant op- portunity to see them all in turn and time — the peaks and gorges of the Adi- rondacks and the Catskills, the floods of Niagara, and the ravines of Trenton, the j)ure placid waters of Lake George, the mountain shores of Champlain, the deer-filled wildernesses and the highland passes of the Hudson, and all the intri- cate reticulation of cities, towns, villages, villas, and watering-places. The principal cities of the State are the metropolis. New York, Brooklyn, Buf- falo, Albany, Troy, Rochester, Syracuse, Oswego, Hudson, etc. Though originally settled by the Dutch, and in the social features of many por- tions of its extended territory still par- taking largely of the characteristic traits of that people, the constant and increas- ing inffusion of New England and of foreign population has contributed to give to New York a more thoroughly cosaiopolitan character than is enjoyed by any other State or people of the Union. The internal improvements of the State are vast and important. Among the most prominent public works are the Erie Canal, 364 miles long, completed in 1825, at a cost of $7,000,000. This work, with its numerous branches and feeders, em- bracing a system of artificial communica- tion of nearly 1,000 miles, constitutes by far the most important line of public works on the continent. But New York has natural advantages greater far than canal or railway alone can bestow. She has 365 miles of lake coast, 206 miles of interior lake, and 245 miles of river navi- gation. The foreign imports of the State for 1862-'63, amounted to $196,000,000, and the exports for the same year to $247,500,000. Railways.] NEW YORK. [New York City, Divisions. — The State is divided into 60 counties, and contains a jiopulation of nearly 4,590,000, of ■whom upward of one-lialf were born iu the State. Albany, pleasantly situated at the head of steam- boat navigation on the Hudson Kiver, 150 miles north of Nev/ York City, is the capital. Railways. — The railway system of the State embraces nearly 3,000 miles of road, the construction and equipment of which cost upward of $133,000,000. The fol- lowing list embraces the most important and most frequently travelled lines : (See also Routes, Skeleton tours, etc.) The New York and Erie Railway, 4G0 miles through the State, from the city of New York to Dunkirk, or 422 to Buffalo (Branch), on Lake Erie. The Hudson River Railway, New York City, 144 miles to Albany, or 152 to Troy, along the banks of the Hudson Kiver. The Harlem Railway, from New York, 154 miles to Albany. The New York Central Railway, from Albany, 298 miles to Buffalo ; or to Niag- ara Falls, 327 miles. Rensselaer and Saratoga Raihoay, from Troy to Saratoga Springs, 32 miles; to Whitehall, 73 miles. 3fontreal and New York, and Plaits- burg and Montreal Railways, 62 miles from Plattsburg, on Lake Champlain ; to Montreal, Canada. Ogdenshurg and Lake Champlain Rail- ivay, from Ogdenshurg, 118 miles to Rouse's Point. Mack River and JJtica Railway, from Utica (New York Central Railway), 35 miles to Boonville. Rome, Wateriown, and Ogdenshurg Railway, from Rome (New York Central Railway), 142 miles to Ogdenshurg. Newburgh branch of New York and Erie Railway, from Newburgh, on the Hudson, to Chester. Osivego and Syracuse Railivay, from Syracuse, (New York Central Railway), 35 miles to Oswego, Lake Ontario. Syracuse, BingJiamton, and New York Railway, from Syracuse, 80 miles to Bing- haraton. Elmira, Canandaigua, and Niagara Falls Railway, from Elmira 168 miles 6 (Erie Railway), to Suspension Bridge, Niagara. Buffalo, Coming, and New York Rail- way, from Corning (Erie Railway), 100 miles to Batavia, or 94 miles to Rochester (New York Central Railway). Williamsport and Elmira Railway, from Elmira (Erie Railway), 78 miles south to Williamsport, Pa. Corning, Rlossbiirg, and Tioga Rail- ivay, 41 miles from Coi'ning (Erie Rail- way), to Blossburg, Pa. Lake Shore Railway, from Buffalo, via Dunkirk, by the shore of Lake Erie, 183 miles, to Cleveland, Ohio, and the West. Hudson and Boston Railway, from Hud- son, on the Hudson River, eastward to West Stcckbridge, Mass., 34 miles, where it connects with the Housatonic Railway. Western (J/«ss.) Railway, from Albany, 49 miles to Pittsfield. Neio York and New Haven Railway, from New York 76 miles to New Haven, Conn., thence to Boston, etc. Zong Island Railway, 99 miles from New York (James Slip or 34th Street Ferry); through the entire length of Long Island, to Greenport. Slaten Island Railway, from Pier 1, E. R., 11 miles to Tottenville. For other railways terminating in New York City, see railways in New Jersey, etc. NEW YORK CITY. The metropolis of the State of New York, and the chief city of the United States, is situated on the Island of Man- hattan, at the junction of the Hudson and East Rivers, 20 miles from the At- lantic Ocean. Toe limits of the City are coextensive with those of the county, embracing the entire island, which is 1 3^ miles in length, and 2i miles at its greatest breadth. Including the sub- urban cities of Brooklyn, Jersey City, and Hoboken, which properly belong to New York, it is by far the most popu- lous and important city of the American Continent. The City Hall is in latitude 40° 42' 43" N., and 74° 0' 3" W. longi- tude. The most busy and densely in- habited portions of the city proper occu- py an area embracing nearly four square miles at the southern extremity of the New York City.] NEW YORK. [New York Citx. sland of Maiihattan. With a population exceeding 1,000,000, and increasing at ,he rate of 50 per cent, every 10 years, S^ew York is already third in size among he cities of Christendom, and bids fair at very distant day to rival all except lOndon itself. It is divided into twenty- two wards, and is governed by a mayor ind common council. The mayor is ilected by popular vote, and holds office wo years. The common council is com- JDOsed of two boards, seventeen alder- mcD, elected for a term of two years, constituting one board, and twenty-five :ouncilmen, chosen annually, forming the jther. The early history of the city of New STork is involved in no inconsiderable legree of uncertainty. The Norse or Northmen, as is affirmed by Scandina- vian records, visited these shores, which ivere then known as part of the ancient ^ineland, as early as 1514. The gen- erally acknowledged commencement of JEuropean civilization in this part of the taowly discovered continent, however, pommenced with the arrival, in the Bay f New York, of Hendrick Hudson, an Englishman in the service of the Dutch 3ast India Company, who arrived at the site of the present city, September 3, 1609. He afterwards sailed up the river vhich now bears his name in a vessel jailed the Half Moon. In 1614 an ex- )edition under Captains Black and Chris- ianse, arrived, and commenced the set- lement of the future city. At the close bf that year the future metropolis of New fork consisted of a small fort, on the ite of the present Bowling Green, and bur houses, and was known as "Nieuw imsterdam." As late as 1048 it con- ained but 1,000 inhabitants. In 1664 t was surrendered to the British, and, lassing into the hands of the Duke of Tork, was thenceforward known as New fork. In l&'J'l it contained 384 houses, n 1*700 the population had increased to bout 6,000. Eleven years subsequent- Y, a market for slaves was opened in Vail Street ; and in 1*725 a weekly paper, be JVew York Gazette, made its first ap- earance. On June 5i8, 1'7'76, the Brit- "^h army and fleet entered the bay of "ew York, and effected a landing on taten Island. Crossing the Narrows, they encountered the American forces near Brooklyn (August 22d), and fought the battle of Long Island. For eight years succeeding this battle, New York remained the headquarters of the British troops, during which time many build- ings were either destroyed or despoiled. The British forces evacuated the city November 25, 1*783, which has since been known as Evacuation Day, and is annually celebrated. Within ten years after the War of Independence, New York had doubled its population. In 1807 the first steamboat to navigate the Hudson was built. The completion of the great Erie Canal followed in 1825, and the Croton Aqueduct in 1842, since which time the progress of the city, in spite of fire and pestilence which has often visited it, has been rapid and per- manent. The city contains 18 main streets or avenues, and upward of 1,000 streets, courts, and lanes. Broadway, the Bowery, and Canal Street, are its leading thoroughfares. The first of these, for the costly magnificence of its buildings, and the varied display of mer- chandise, is perhaps without an equal in the world. The leading hotels, theatres, and retail stores, are located in Broad- way. Fifth Avenue, the favorite resort of fashion, runs parallel with Broadway, a little west of that street. It is upward of three miles in length, and contains some of the finest private residences to be found in the city. Madison Avenue, Fourteenth and Twenty-third Streets, and many of the squares, also have fine pri- vate residences. For a more extended description of these fine streets the reader is referred to Walks, Promenades, et- cetera. Hotels, etc. — The first consideration of the stranger or traveller, arriving in New York, is to procure comfortable quarters. In this matter he will have all needed faciUty. No city in the world surpasses New York, either in the splen- dor or extent of its hotel accommodation, while in the number and excellence of its lodging and boarding houses, and res- taurants, it is far in advance of any other city on the American continent. As the Hand-book is designed for popular use, the editor will endeavor to meet the tastes and wishes of all, by treating of Y New York City.] NEW YORK. [New York City-. each of these descriptions of accommo- dation briefly, under separate heads. Of hotels, there are upward of 140 in the city proper. The Fifth Avemce Ho- tel is unsurpassed for the extent of its ac- commodation, and the excellence and good taste with which it is furnished. It has many conveniences and advantages over (.'ther strictly first-class hotels. Its loca- tion, at the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Broadway, facing Madison Square, is one of the best the city affords, com- manding easy access by means of numer- ous lines of street railways, with the down-to ivn business quarters, and a pleasant strolling-ground or ramble for ladies and children. It is built of marble, and is six stories high. This otherwise objectionable feature is made subservient to a mechanical contrivance, known as a vertical railway, by means of which guests can reach their rooms or any part of the house with ease and despatch. It has accommodation for 1,100 guests. Darling, Griswold and Co., are the pro- prietors. The Hoffman House, at the cor- ner of Fifth Avenue and Twenty-fifth Street, also directly facing Madison Square, and immediately north of the Fifth Avenue, is an admirably conducted house. It is conducted on the European plan, and has a well-ordered restaurant attached. The rooms are commodious and newly furnished, and the cuisine ex- cellent. It is under the management of Messrs. Mitchell & Read. The J^eiv York Hotel, on Broadway, at its intersec- tion with Waverley Place, is a well-kept house, much patronized by Southern and Cuban travellers. H. Cranston, propri- etor. The Southern Hotel (late Lafarge) is on the same side of Broadway, opposite Bond Street. The Astor, opposite the City Hall, is one of the oldest and most popu- lar houses in New York. It is under the able management of the Messrs. Stetson. It is constructed wholly of Quincy gran- ite, and contains 326 chambers. Its noble facade of over 200 feet on Broadway, renders it one of the most prominent ob- jects in that quarter of the city. The Metropolitan and the St. Nicholas, on Broadway, above Canal Street, are both excellent houses. In the busy trade season, merchants from the interior States, and indeed from all parts of the world, are to be found here, the register of either house frequently showing many as three hundred arrivals a day. Tlie Everett House, facing Union Square, has one of the most delightful locations in the city : it is especially a desirable house for families : the cuisine and attendance are such as to recommend it to those capable of appreciating the comforts of home life. The Brevoort House, in Fifth Aveniie, corner of Eighth Street (Clinton Place), and the Clarendon, in Fourth Av- enue, at the coi'ner of Seventeenth Street, are both good houses, and are much frequented by English travellers. The St. Denis, corner of Broadway and Eleventh Street, and the St. Germahi, on Twenty- second Street, at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, are both desirable houses, with good restaurants attached. The Gramerci/ Farlc House has a retired and beautiful location in one of the most pleasant neighborhoods for a family hotel, between Twentieth and Twenty-first Streets. The Albemarle is a quiet and well-conducted house, in Twenty-fourth Street, in the immediate neighborhood of Madison Square, the Fifth Avenue, and all the leading up- town hotels. Restaurants. — The restaurants of New York rank next to the hotels in import- ance, and are much more numerous. For gentlemen travelling alone these establish- ments offer many inducements, not least among which are the greater attention extended to them by their keepers Nothing is more common than for New Yorkers, including ladies and persons oi distinction, to dine or sup at a restaurant, Restaurants are of two kinds : the first and most popular, where meals are served cl la carte ; the other at a fixed sum per meal. JDelmonico^s, in Fifth Avenue, oc- cupying the entire square between Four teeuth and Fifteenth Streets, is the largest establishment of the kind in this or per- haps any other city ; another estaljlish ment, on the corner of Broadway and Chambers Street, kept by the same firm serves excellent dinners. The Maisor, Doree, facing Union Square, in Fourteenth Street, west of Broadway, is famous for its suppers. The wines served at these houses may be relied on. Salles m Societe, or private rooms, furnished. Tay^ New York Cit?.] NEW YORK. [New Yoek City. lor^s (International), at 365 Broadway, corner Franklin Street, which was opened in 1853, and continued the most famous resort of the kind up to the rebelUon, has lately been closed as a restaurant. 3fail- larcVs, 621 Broadway, north of Houston, is an excellent restaurant and confection- ery, much frequented by ladies, as is also Mendes. The ice cream and other summer delicacies served at Maillard's have no su- perior in the city. Among the down-town restaurants Belmonicd' s and Berry^s, in Broad Street, are the most largely patron- ized. They are in the immediate neigh- borhood of the Stock Exchange and Wall Street. Dining-rooms and lunch-counters are attached to each. SutherlancVs, on Cedar Street, between Broadway and Nas- sau, is also an excellent lunch-house. Ca/es.— These are few, and comparatively speaking poorly patronized by Americans. The French and Spanish population go to a cafe to take a demitasse of coffee and a petit verre de liqueur, instead of sitting over their wine at a hotel or restaurant. The Cafe du Commerce, in Broadway, north of Canal St., is among the best of its class. Lodging and Boarding Houses. — These abound in every quarter of the city, and embrace every kind and quality of accommodation, from the luxuriously fur- nished parlor suite on Murray Hill or Madison Square, to the third floor back room or hall chamber in the down-town quarter. Boarding-house fare and ac- commodation are poor at the best ; and strangers visiting New York have gen- erally learned to avoid them. Furnished apartments in private houses [maisons mcublees), from a complete range or suite adapted for housekeeping, to a single chamber, can be had in almost every lo- cality in New York, at prices ranging from $20 to $100 per month. It is not however, customary, nor is it advantage- ous, to take apartments for a stay of a few days. Lodgings may be hired by the night, week, or month. Except for the latter period, which may be made a mat- ter of special agreement, payment is al- ways expected in advance. The Daily "Herald" furnishes the most complete list of " rooms, etc., to let." A distinguishing social feature of New York, among other cities of America, is its clubs. Clubs. — These answer to the cercles of Paris, and are twenty in number. The best are the Union, on Fifth Avenue, cor- ner Twenty-first Street ; the Neiv York, No. 1 East Fifteenth Street ; ManluMan, 96 Fifth Avenue ; the Century, 42 East Fifteenth Street ; the Athencenm, 23 Union Place ; the American Jockey Club; the Travellers', 222 Fifth Avenue ; the City, 31 Union Place ; and the Union League, 26 East Seventeenth Street. The Union Club House is the finest structure of its kind in the city. It is of brown- stone, and cost $300,000 to build. There are also several yacht, chess, cricket, and skating clubs and club-hcu^es. The grounds and house of the St. George's Cricket Club are at Hoboken, near the Elysian Fields. The Saloons of New York form a dis- tinctive feature of metropolitan life ; many of these establishments, in their ex- tent and the brilliancy of their interior fittings, being scarcely excelled by the famous cafes of the French metropolis. The most admired and frequented are those of the Metropolitan, St. Nicholas, and I^fth Avenue Hotels, and the Rotun- da of the Astor House, The bars of the three first-named afford fine specimens of a kind of adornment much in vogue in the metropolis. The Oyster Saloons are numerous, and generally well conducted. The daily consumption of oystei'S in New York has been valued at $25,000. Up- ward of 1,500 boats are constantly engaged in the trade. Willard^s and the Oyster Bay, on Broadway, are famous resorts for the lovers of this delicious dish. ■ Terms, Prices, &c. — Charges at the leading hotels are $5 per day, which in- cludes every thing except -nine and extra attendance. At many of the smaller houses, moderate-sized rooms and board can be had at prices ranging from $3 to $4 per day, but they are not always de- sirable on that account. As a general rule, the stranger would do well to patron- ize only those hotels mentioned in this guide. The prices of furnished apart- ments in choice localities range from $8 to $15 per week. When board is in- cluded, $6 to $10 per week more is charged. Prices at restaurants are wholly regulated by bill of fare, except " ordi- naries" are served, in which case 75 cents 9 New York City.] NEW YORK. [New YoiiK City. tc)$l for tliiinerwill be found the average charge. We would caution the stranger in New York against too great haste in selecting rooms or board. Be not de- ceived by appearances. While there is no lack of respectable boarding and lodging houses in the city, there is a still larger number of establishments, known as boarding-houses, which the stranger will do well to avoid. CoNvr.TANCES. — The most popular con- veyance in New York is undoul3tedly the street car, stage, or omnibus. Their cheapness and despatch equally commend them to general use. Of the former there are thirteen distinct lines, and twenty- nine of the latter, which extend to every part of the city. A uniform charge of six cents is made for each passenger on the cars, and ten cents on the stages. (See City Directory.) Carriages, Hackney Coaches, etc. — These can be hired by the hour, day, or trip. A city ordinance requires each driver to keep his schedule of prices posted up inside his conveyance, but this very wise measure is not always carried out. They will, however, genei-ally be found at the leading hotels. In no case should an overcharge be submitted to. If travellers and strangers would but insist on their rights in this matter, they would be more generally respected. Carriage and hack drivers, as a general rule, if left to decide for themselves between a license to do right and the liberty to do wrong, will not be slow to adopt the latter alterna- tive. Separate charges ai-e made for one- horse and two-horse carriages. The former are known as cabriolets or cabs. Hansoms or London Safetys have been recently introduced, but it will be long before they become popular. When con- veyances are engaged by the hour, the driver should be notified on entering; otherwise he can demand the price of " a course " for each stoppage. Ferries. — There are twenty-six lines of ferries running between the several ferry landings in New York and Brooklyn, Greenpoint, Hoboken, Hunter's Point, Jersey City, Mott Haven, Pavonia, Staten Island, Weehawken, and Fort Lee. 10 NORTH ElVER. Nno Jersey Central Railroad. — From Liberty Street to Communipaw, N. J. Jersey City Ferry. — From Cortlandt Street to Montgomery Street, Jersey City, three cents. Staten Ishmd Ferry — (North Shore). — From pier 19, twelve cents. Hohoken Ferry. — From foot of Barclay Street to Hoboken, three cents. Peivonia Ferry. — From foot of Cham- bers Street to Jersey City (Erie Rail- way), three cents. Jersey City Ferry. — From foot of Des- brosses Street to Montgomery Street, Jer- sey City (N. J. R. R.) Christo2)her Street Ferry. — From Chris- topher Street to Hoboken, N. J., three cents. Weehawken Ferry. — ^From Forty-sec- ond Street to Weehawken, N. J., five cents. Eighty - fifth Street Ferry. — From Eighty-fifth Street to Bull's Ferry. EAST EIVEK. Staten Island Ferry. — ^From the Bat- tery to Staten Island, connecting with Staten Island Railroad, ten cents. Hamilton Avenue Ferry. — From White hall Street to Atlantic Dock, Brookl}Ti, two cents. South Ferry. — From foot of Whitehall Street to Atlantic Street, Brooklyn, two cents. Wall Street Ferry. — From foot of Wall Street to Montague Street, Brook lyn, two cents. Fulton Ferry. — ^From Fulton Street, New York, to Fulton Street, Brooklyn, two cents. Roosevelt Street Ferry. — From Roose- velt Street to South Seventh Street, Brooklyn, E. D. (Williamsburgh), three cents. 'Hunter\ Point Ferry. — From James Slip to Hunter's Point, L. I., connecting with Long Island Railroad, eight cents. Bridge Street Ferry. — From foot of James Street to Bridge Street, Brooklyn, two cents. Catharine Street Ferry. — From Cath- arine Street to Main Street, Brooklyn, two cents. New York CiTr.J NEW YORK. [New York City. Jackson Street Ferry. — From Jackson Street to Hudson Avenue, Brooklyn, three cents. Division Avenue Ferry. — From Grand (Street to South Seventh Street, Brook- llyn. E. D. (Williamsburgh), three cents. Grand Street Ferry. — From Grand Street, New York, to Grand Street, Brook- l3'n, E. D., (Williamsburgh), also to South Seventh Street, three cents. IIousto:i Street Ferry. — From Houston Street to Grand Street, Brooklyn, E. D. (Williamsburgh), three cents. Greenpoint Ferry. — From Tenth Street to Greenpoint, L. I., four cents. Tweniy-tliird Street Ferry. — From Twenty-third Street to Greenpoint, four ! cents. Thirty-fourth Street Ferry. — From Thirty-fourth Street to Hunter's Point, four cents. Hellgate Ferry. — From Eighty-sixth Street to Astoria, L. I., four cents. As many visitors to New York desire to see the city without the expenditure of time necessary to visit the different objects of interest, we liavc tliought it best to mention in the Hand-book a few of the best points for observation. For those in the south or down-town quarter, the steeple of Trinity Church on Broad- way, head of Wall Street, will be found the most convenient. A view from this magnificent elevation will afford the vis- itor the best idea of the general extent and topography of the city. Ascent is ';y winding stairs, with frequent landing- laces for rest. Admission at all hours f the day except during divine service. 'le janitor is entitled to a fee of twenty- ,e cents for each person. From the ►^ )f of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, on Mad- •" Square, a fine though less extended *Se of the dome. Its portico, resting on massive Ionic columns, has a fine ef- t. The entire cost of the building, in- iding the ground, was over $1,800,000. jThe IT. S. Treasury (once the Custom use) is on Wall and Nassau Streets, site occupied by Old Federal HalL jis built of white marble, in the Doric er, similar in model to the Parthenon Athens. It is 200 feet long, 90 wide, d 80 high. The great hall for the msaction of business is a circular room, feet in diameter, surmounted by a jme, supported by 16 Corinthian col- ms 30 feet high, and having a skylight, rough which the hall is lighted. The st of the building, including the ground, IS $1,195,000. The Post-Office is in Nassau Street, be- 'een Cedar and Liberty Streets. The lilding is noteworthy only as a relic of e past, having been formerly used as a Iurch by one of the old Du'',ch congrega- )ns, and known as the " Middle Dutch lurch." In the old wooden steeple of is building Franklin practised his ex- riments in electricity. It sustained great Ijuries during the British occupation of e city, but was fitted for public worship 1790. It was first used as U. S. Post- ce, February 17, 1844. A site for a w Post-Ofiice building has just been: lected at the south end of the Park, The Hall of Justice., or " Tombs" is cated in Centre Street, between Leonard lid Franklin Streets. It is a substantial iokiiig building, in the Egyptian style of ^chitecture, 253 feet long and 200 wide, )ustructed of a light-colored granite, he city prison has 150 cells. The court I sessions, police, and other courts, are eld here. Admission granted on appli- itiou to the keeper. The Old Ciii/ Armory or Arsenal is at le junction of Elm and White Streets, i is of blue-stone, in the Gothic style, he new arsenal is at the corner of Thirty- fth Street and Seventh Avenue. LlIERAEY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ic. , ETC. — The educational system of the ity is under the control of a Board of Iducation (ofiice, 140 Grand Street, cor. 11m), composed of 21 Commissioners f Common Schools, elected for terms of three years. There are 257 schools in the city, 89 of which are primary, and 15 for colored children. The aggregate attendance (1865) was 189,814. Columbia College, on 50th Street near Fifth Avenue, is an ancient establishment, having been chartered by George II. in 1754, under the title of King's College. Until within a few years back it occupied a site in Park Place. The green lawns adjoining its old site have long since been built over. The college has a pres- ident and 12 professors, a library of 20,000 volumes, and a museum. The JSTew York University occupies a grand Gothic edifice of white marble, upon the east side of Washington Square, Wooster Street, corner Waverley Place. This structure is a fine example of pointed architecture, not unlike that of King's Col- lege, Cambridge, England. The chapel —in the central building — is, with its noble window, 50 feet high and 24 feet wide, one of the most beautiful rooms in the country. The whole edifice is 200 feet in length and 100 feet deep. It was founded in 1831. A valuable library and philosophical apparatus is attached to the University. The Cooper Institute ( Union) occupies a magnificent brown-stone edifice oppo- site the Bible House on Astor Place, at the point where the union of the Third and Fourth avenues forms the Bowery. Its main front, 143 feet long, is on Eighth Street. It was founded by the generous munificence of Peter Cooper, an eminent merchant of New York. The building cost about $600,000. It is devoted to the free education of tiie people in the practical arts and sciences. It was pub- licly opened in November, 1859, with over 2,000 students. It contains a free reading-room and library. One of its departments is a School of Design for women. The basement is devoted to the purposes of a lecture-room. The Fr-ce Academy [New York College), at the inter- section of Lexington Avenue and Twenty- third Street, is an imposing and highly ornamental structure, erected in 1848. This is a public collegiate academy of the highest rank. Its students are chosen from the pupils of the public schools only. It will accommodate 1,000 pupils. The cost of the building, grounds, and furni- 15 Nkw York City.] NEW YORK. [New York City ture was $152,000. Lyceum of Natural Hislori/, 561 Broadway. The General Theological Seminar]/ of the Protestant Episcopal Church is pleasantly situated on West Twentieth Street,between Ninth and Tenth Avenues. The Union Theological Seminary, founded in 1836, is at 9 Univer- sity Place, just above the New York Uni- versity. Tlie Nevj York Historical Socie- ty, established in 1809, occupies an edi- fice of yellow sandstone on Second Ave- nue, corner of Eleventh Street. Its library and art collection are large and valuable. The Amei'iccm Geoffraphiccd and Stalis- iical Society has rooms in Clinton Hall, Astor Place. The JVew York Law Insti- tute is in the City Hall. College of St. Francis Xaviev, on Fifteenth Streei be- tween Fifth and Sixth Avenues, was found- ed in 1850. It has a library of 15,000 volumes. Libraries. — New York possesses up- ward of tv/enty public libraries. The first, or " Public Library," was commenced in 1700. (See Society Library.) The fol- lowing are those best worth visiting : The Astor Library, on Lafayette Place near Astor Place, was founded by John Jacob Astor, who endowed it with the sum of $400,000. The building, erected in 1853, 65 feet by 120, was enlarged in ISoY by the addition of another building corre- sponding in size to the original. It is of brick, ornamented with brown-stone in the Romanesque style, and cost fYO- 000. The Library Hall is 50 feet high, and approached by a flight of 38 marble steps. The eollection of books numbers 135,000, and constitutes one of the largest and most valuable public libraries on the continent. Open daily (except Sundays and holidays), from 9 to 5 o'clock. The Mercantile Library, Clinton Hall, Eighth Street near Broadway, and in the immediate vicinity 'of the Cooper Institute, the Astor Library, and Bible House. It was founded in 1820, and was first opened at 49 Fulton Street, Febi'uary, 1821. The collection then numbered 700 volumes, which was in- creased in 1826 to 3,000. The first cata- logue was printed in 182]., The library was moved to its present cjuarters June 8, 1854. Its collection now numbers 86, Quo volumes, in everv department of 16 letters. It has 1 2,000 members. It ha also a lecture and reading room, an( cabinets of minerals. The winter cours' of lectures before the Mercantile Librar; Association are among the greatest at tractions of the season. . Reading-rooi o\)QXi IVom 8 A. sr. to 10 p. m. New York Society Library, No. 67 I^n; versity Place, contains the oldest and un of the most valuable collections of book in the city. The " Public Library," com menced 1700, during the provincial gov ernorship of the Earl of Bellamont, forme( the nucleus ofthe present library. In 172 it was largely increased by a bequest frou Dr. Millington, of Newington, England In 1754, and for some time after, it wai known as the " City Library." The titli of New York Society Library was give: to it (1772) under charter from Kinj George HI. It suffered severely durin the Revolution — so severely, that at th' publication of the first printed catalogue (1793) it contained but 5,000 volumes, aj which time it occupied a room in th City Hall. In 1795 it was removed to building, then new, but since removed facing the Middle Dutch Church (no occupied as the Post-Oflice) in Nassa Street, where it remained till 1836, whe it was again moved to the rooms of thi Mechanics' Society, in Chambers Street, In 1825 the library numbered 16,00' vols. In 1838 the New York Atheiiceu was merged in the Society Library, aii' the whole was removed (1840) to a build ing just erected, at a cost of $74,000, a1 the corner of Broadway and Leonar Street. It 1853 the Broadway propert was sold, and the library moved to th' Bible House, where it remained untl 1856, when it was again removed to it present building. The library now con- tains nearly 55,000 vols. It lias commo- dious reading-rooms. Strangers intro- duced by members have the privilege; of the library and reading-rooms for on month. Open from 8 A. M. to 6 r. m. reading room till 10 p. m. New York Historiccd Library, Secon Avenue corner East Eleventh Street, h; 30,000 volumes, and a collection of an tiqui ties, coins, medals, etc. Open from 9 a, to 6 p. M. during the summer months, an^ 9 A. M. to 9 P. M. during the winter. A prentices' Library, in the Mechanics' Hall New York City.] •NEW YORK. [New York City. |4'72 Broadway, near Grand Street, has 18,- 000 volumes. Open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. The Ajjierican Institute Library, incorpo- rated 1829, occupies rooms 21 to 23, on the first floor of the Cooper Institute. The collection numbers 10,000 volumes. The arinual exhibitions of mechanic art and industry, of this Society, make a feature in the autumn entertainments of the metropolis. Open daily, 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. Ciiy Library, room 12 City Hall, has 5,000 volumes. Open daily from 10 a. m. to 4 p. M. Law Institute Library, 41 Cham- bers Street, open daily. Young Men's Christian Association, 161 6th Avenue and '76 Varick Street. Open daily from 8 A. M. to 10 p. M. The General Theo- logical Seminary has a library of 18,000 volumes. The Union Theological Semi- nary Library, 9 University Place, num- bers 26,000 volumes. Art Societies and Galleries. — The National Academy of Design — the chief art institution of America — -was founded in 1826, since which time it has steadily advanced in influence and usefulness. It occupies a prominent locale at the cor- ner of Fourth Avenue and Twenty-third Street, fronting on the latter. The front is constructed of Westchester County marble, banded with greywacke ; is in the Gothic style of architecture of the thirteenth century, and presents a unique and pleasing appearance. The main gates and external ornamental iron-work are generally admired. No paint is used on the woodwork of the building. The grand stairway leading to the art galler- ies is of solid oak, trimmed with walnut. Besides the central hall, picture galleries, and sculpture-room, which are in the third story, it contains lecture, reading, li- brary, and council-rooms. It was erected in 1863, under the superintendence of 1\ B. Wright, architect, and cost $150,000. It numbers among its academi- cians and associates nearly all of the e.min-ent artists of the city and vicinity. Annual exhibitions of the Academy are held in April, May, Jui>e, and July, clos- ing on the 4th of that month. Admis- sion, twenty-five cents. The stranger in New York should not omit attending these exhibitions. The Artists' Fund Society, founded in 1859, makes an annual exhibition and ( sale of works of art, in the months of November and December, in the Academy building. Art Studios. — At No. 51 Tenth Street, near the Sixth Avenue, there is a spacious quadrangular edifice, called the Artists' Studio Building, occupied entire- ly by artists. A fine gallery, for the uses of the fraternity, fills the court. Dodworih's, 212 Fifth Avenue, Madison Square, is another famous resort of the knights of the easel, and so too is the University in Washing-ton Park. Free Galleries for the exhibition and sale of woi'ks of Art, are at Schaus', No. 749 Broadway ; Goupil's, Broadway and I^inth Street; "Williams', 358 Broadway; Snedecor's, 768 Broadway. Bendann's photographic art gallery is on Fifth Av- enue, corner of Seventeenth Street. Mokuments, Fountains, etc. — Of these, which form one of the most interesting and' characteristic features of most of the great cities of Europe, New York has scarcely one worthy the name. The equestrian statue of Washington in Union Square, near the intersection of Fourteenth Street with Broadway, is a fine work, much admired for its propor- tions and execution. The Worth Momc- me^it is on Madison Square, in the viciu- ity of the Hoffman House and Fifth Avenue Hotel. ' The Martyrs' Monument is in Trinity churchyard. The fountains in the Central Park are the largest and most admired. Chajsitable Institutions. — Among the most notev^orthy charities of the metrop- olis are the following, viz. : The New York Hospital, 319 Broadway, between Duane and Worth Streets. It was found- ed in 1771 by the Earl of Dunmore, then governor of the colony. The approach from Broadway, facing Pearl Street, is by an avenue ninety feet wide, through a pretty lawn. The main building is of gray stone, 124 feet long by 50 feet deep. Connected with this hospital was for- merly a Marine department, rebuilt in 1834, and considered one of the best ar- ranged institutions of its kind in the country. This building is now occupied by the University Medical School, On the walls of the Governor's room in the main building immediately facing the entrance are portraits in oil of the sev- 17 New Youk City.] NEW YORK. [Nkw York City. eral governors and leading medical men connected with the hospital. The Citi) Fmilodiary, tho LunaiicAst/- lum, ihe Alms House, Hospital, and Work House, on Blaekwell's Island, in the East River, are wortli the special attention of the stranger. This island, as also Ward's and Randall's Islands, may be reached by steamboat from foot of Grand Street, East River, at 12 m. daily; or by the Harlem cars to Sixty-first Street. The Work House is one of the most complete edifices of its kind in the country. It is 325 feet in length, has accommodation for 600 inmates, and cost ,$100,000. Also, Warcfs and RandaWs Islands, near by, are occupied by public charitable in- stitutions. The elegant and massive structures which cover this famous group of islands make a striking feature in the landscape in sailing up the East River to the suburban villages on Long Island, en route for Newport or Boston. In the several institutions on Blackwell's, Ward's, and Randall's Islands, from five to sis thousand persons arc usually main- tained. The House of Refuge, on Ran- dall's Island, should be visited. It is one of the most extensive establishments of the kind in the world. The boys' de- partment is 600 feet in length, and the girls' 250 feet. Permits granted every week-day. The Institution for the Mind occupies a large and imposing Gothic edifice of gran- ite, on Ninth Avenue, between Thirty- third and Thirty-fourth Streets. It i.i 175 feet long, and three stories high. Visitors received on Wednesdays from 9 a. m. to 5 p. M. The Deaf a7id Dumb Asylum occupies a conspicuous locale at Eanwood, West One Hundred and Sixty-second Street, near Bloomingdale Road (Washington Heights). It is reached by the cars of the Harlem Railroad. Incorporated 181*7, opened in the N. Y. Institution (old Alms House), in the Park, 1818, moved to new building Fifth Street, 1828. The principal building, 110 by 60 feet, and five stories high, has accommodation for between 200 and 300 pupils. Admission daily from 12 to 4 o'clock, p. m. The JV^eia York Juvenile Asylum, One Hundred and Seventy-fifth Street, near Tenth Avenue and High Bridge, is a noble 18 chanty. The office of the Superintendent ! is at the House of Reception, 71 West Thirteenth Street. The Bloomingdale Asylum for the In- sane {Lunatic Asylum), and the New York Orphan Asylum, are in the uppei part of the island, on the line of one of the pleasantest drives about New York. The former of these charities is a branch of the New York Hospital, already men- tioned. It occupies a most attractive and commanding site on West One Hun- dred and Seventeenth Street, near' Tenth Avenue. The principal building is 211 feet in length, and four stories high. The Orphan Asylum, on Bloomingdale Road, near Seventy-fourth Street, is 120 feet long by 60, and has nine acres of ground attached, commanding a fine view of the river on either side. It was in- corporated in 1807 ; the present edifice was completed in 1840. Bellevue HospAtal, at the foot of East Twenty-seventh Street, is a noble charity finished in 1812, The admissions during the year 1864 numbered nearly 8,000. The city Alms House which preceded Bellevue Hospital, erected 1695, stood on the north side of the Park, facing Church Street. St. Luke's Hospital is at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street. The Home of Industry, 155 and 159 Worth Street, near Centre and Pearl Streets, popularly known as the Five Points House of Industry, from its loca- tion at the intersection of five streets or lanes, stands near the spot once occupied by the " Old Brewery," supposed to have been built near the corner of Broadway and Duane Street, prior to the Revolu- tion. The locality has long been identi- fied as the abode of squalid poverty and cnme in, New York, and the "Home" is interesting to humanitarians as a jjroof of what can be done for this unfortunate class of population. It was founded in 1848, cost .$80,500, and contains over 300 inmates. The expenses of the Home are defrayed by the labor of its inmates. Dispensaries. — Closely connected with the foregoing charities are the .Dispen- saries, which number eleven. The fol- lowing are the most prominent : Northern, iomi&eA 1829, corner of Wa- verly Place and Christopher Street. w York City.] NEW YORK. [New York: City. ISforihwestern, No. 511 Eighth Avenue. New Yorh, Centre, cornei" White Street. lis is the oldest institution of its kind the city. Established 1*795. Demilt, No. 401 Second Avenue, was orporated March, 1851. '^ffsfeni, founded June 16, 1834, No. Essex Street, corner Grand. Northeastern, incorporated February 1861, southeast corner Lexington enue and Fifty-first Street. Medical Institutions. — The medical ftitutions of New Yorlc number fifteen, luding five colleges and two academies, of wliich are centrally located and en to tlie public without fee. One of most noteworthy — The Universiti/ Medical College, was btroyed by fire. May 21, 1866, together jtli its valuable library and anatomical [lection, and has not yet been rebuilt, is temporarily located in the north ilding of the New York Hospital, mer of Broadway and Worth Streets. College of Physicians and Surgeons, rtheast corner Fourth Avenue and renty-third Street, founded in 1807, has ibrary and anatomical museum. New York Medical College, 90 East irteenth Street, was chartered in 1850, d is devoted to the instruction of young ictitioners. It has an anatomical mu- im, laboratory, etc. The College of larmacy is located in the same build- T_ Bellevue Hospital Ifedical College is East Twenty-sixth Street, near First renue. Homoeopathic Medical College, 116 East venty-eighth Street. The New York Academy of Medicine 3ets the first Wednesday of each month the University building. OCheological Institutions and Chuech- — New York contains 812 church ifices, many of them noteworthy for eir extent and beauty of design, but iv possessing much historical interest. il the old church buildings have been :ng since pulled down to make room for !e demands of commerce and trade. Trinity Church, facing Vfall Street, on oadway, will first attract the stranger's tention. An entire forenoon might be ofitably spent in and around Trinity, was founded in 1696, enlarged in IVSV,' its dimensions then being 148 by 72, with a steeple 178 feet high. The pres- ent edifice is the third built on the spot, the first having been destroyed in the great fire of September 21,1776. It was commenced in 1839, and completed in 1846, from designs by Upjohn. Its dimensions are 192 feet by 80 feet, and 60 feet high. The steeple is 284 feet high, and has a fine chime of bells and clock. From this steeple the finest panoramic view of the city, suburban towns, and bay is obtained. An elabo- rate silver service, presented to the cor- poration of Trinity by Queen Anne of England, is among the objects worthy of notice. In the graveyard adjoining the church are the tombs of Alexander Hamil- ton and of Commodore Lawrence, who was killed in the action between the Chesa- peake and Shannon, June 1, 1813. The monument to the Sugar-House martyrs, adjoining Trinity Buildings, is worthy of notice. No interments have been made in Trinity yard since 1822. This grave- yard formed part of the " church farm " originally set apart by the Dutch West India Company " for the use of their offi- cers and the fort garrison." It was after- ward known as the " King's Farm," and was granted to the corporation of Trinity (1705) by Lord Cornbury, then British governor. Its fee has served to make Trinity Church the richest ecclesiastical corporation in the United States, and is now the source of an immense yearly revenue. Grace Church, on Broadway, near Tenth Street, from its striking situation and architectural display, usually divides with Trinity the first attention of the visitor. Externally it is, perhaps, the most ornate specimen of ecclesiastical architecture in the city. It was built by Renwick (1845), and cost $145,000. The effect of the stained-glass windows, of which there are forty, viewed from the inside in a bright sunlight, is very fine. St. Paul's Church, the third Episcopal church erected in the city (1766), stands on Broadway, immediately below the Astor House, and facing the " Herald " bmlding, which now occupies the corner of Ann Street and Broadway, recently the site of Barnum's Museum. It is 151 feet long, 78 feet wide, and has a steeple 19 New York City.] NEW YOKK. [New York Citj of 203 feet. On a white marble slab, in the front of tlie church, is an inscription to the memory of General Montgomery, who fell at Quebec, December 31, 1775, and whose remains were removed hither July 8, 1S13. Over this slab is a monu- ment erected to his memory by order of Congress, January 23, 1776. South of the church, fiicing Broadway, is a monument to Emmet the Irish patriot, who died in New York, 1827. St. Fai7-ick's Cathedral, now in course of construction on Fifth Avenue and Fiftieth Street, is worthy a visit from those interested in church architecture. When finished, it will be the largest and one of the most costly church edifices in the United States. Service was performed until recently in the Cathedral erected in 1815 at the corner of Prince and Mott Streets. St. George's Church occupies a con- spicuous site on Stuyvesant Square, in East Sixteenth Street. It is one of the most spacious and imposing church edi- fices of the city. It is in the Byzantine style, 170 feet long and 94 feet v/ide. It was erected in 1849, and cost $250,000 ; the ground being donated by the late Feter G. Stuyvesant. It was burned November 14, 1865, the whole interior portion of the building being completely destroyed. Damage estimated at $200,- 000. It has been fully restored, and is again open for public worship. Trinity JOhape'' on Twenty-fifth Street, west of Broadway, is an elegant edifice, erected by the corporation of Trinity Church at a cost of $260,000. It is 180 fett long, and richly ornamented. Many novel features in church architecture and appointment are noticeable. Besides these, the following will repay a visit if the stranger have time: St. JoIm's (Episcopal), in St. John's Park ; Church of the Puritans, Union Square; St. /*a?med to them, when- ever a moment can be stolen from the endless attractions on the way. We start as the morning svm is falling upon the thousand sail which fill the grand bay of New York ; but scarcely have our eyes taken in half the beauties of this superb panorama — the roofs and spires and domes of the great meti'op- olis on one side, Jersey City upon th opposite shore, the fortresses of Govern or's Island, of Bedloe and Ellis's Islands, and of Fort Hamilton ; the shores of Long Island, and the villa banks of Staten Island beyond, with the far-off perspec- tive of the hill-bound " Narrows "• — be- foi'e we must turn our backs upon it al to gaze upon the yet more charming scenes which are presented to us as ou; steamer ploughs the channel northward. Passing in full view of the pleasant vil lages of Hoboken and Weehawken, else- where described, on the opposite shore, we shortly reach the Pcdisades. These grand precipices, rising in many places to the height of 500 feet, follow, in un- bi'oken line, as far as the great bay of the river, called the Tappan Zee, a dis- tance of 20 miles. They do not wholly terminate, hov/ever, until we reach Haver- straw, a distance 36 miles from New York. The rock is trap, columnar in formation, somewhat after the fashion of the famous Giant's Causeway in Ire- land and of Fingal's Cave in Scotland. They lend great beauty to the picture as we start upon our journey, and to all the pictures of the river, of which they form a part. Guttenberg, opposite Seventieth Street, is a recent German settlement, overlooking the river, famous for its ex- tensive brewery. BidVs Ferry, opposite Ninetieth Street, New York, now lies upon our left. It is a favorite summer resort and resi- dence of the people of New York. In the hot months, the ferry-boats, continually plying thither, at a fare of only 12 J cents, are thronged with passengers. Bloomingdcde, a suburban village, six miles from the City Hall, lies ou the right. The Orphan Asylum here, with its fine lawns sloping down to the river edge, forms a conspicuous feature of the landscape. i\ New York.] NEW YORK. [YONKEKS. Fort Lee, ten miles up the river, and opposite One Hundred and Sixtieth Street, New York, now calls us back again to the western shore. It crowns the lofty brow of the Palisades, 300 feet above the river. Some interesting mem- ories of the days of the American Revo- lution are awakened here. The anxious thoughts of Washington and his generals turned to this point in that eventful period. A fortification here stood upon the heights, which was called Mount Con- stitution, and hei-e it was attempted, by the express command of Congress, to ob- struct the navigation of the river by every art and at whatever expense, "as well to prevent the egress of the enemy's frigates, lately gone up, as to hinder them from re- ceiving succors." A large force of Amer- icans, in retreating from Fort Lee, were overpowered, and either slain or taken prisoners by a greatly superior body of Hessian troops. Fori Washington, another spot of deep historical interest, stands on a steep projecting cliflE", between One Hundred and Eighty-first and One Hundred and Eighty-fifth Streets, New York, nearly opposite Eort Lee. Like that locality, it reminds us of the most trying hours of the trying times in American story. It fell into the hands of the enemy, November 16, 1'7'76, and the garrison of 3,000 men became prisoners of war. Two days after. Lord Cornwallis, with 6,000 men, crossed the river, at Dobb's Ferry, and attacked Fort Lee. The gar- rison there, then commanded by General Greene, made a hasty retreat to the en- campment of the main army, under Wash- ington, five miles back, at Hackensack. All the baggage and stores fell into the hands of the enemy. The fort was a strong earthwork, of irregular form, cov- ering several acres. Some 20 pieces of ordnance, besides small-arms, bristled upon its walls, though its strength lay chiefly in its position. The very spot v,diere the old fort once stood, as well as all the region round, is now covered by the peaceful and fragrant lawns and gardens of elegant villa residences. Just below the high grounds once occupied by Fort Washington {Washington Heights), and close by the river, is the promontory of Jeffrey's Hook. A redoubt was construct- ed here as a covering to the chevaux-de- frise in the channel. The banks of this work are still plainly to be seen. Above Fort Washington, on the same side of the river, was Fort Tryon. The site now lies between One Hundred and Ninety-fifth and One Hundred and Ninety-eighth Streets, New York. Not far beyond is the northern boundary of Manhattan Isl- and — the little waters, famous in history and story as Spuyten Duyvel (Spite the Devil) Creek. King\s Bridge, built in 1693, by Frederick Phillips, marks the meeting of the waters which flow from the East into the North River, and form the Island of Manhattan. Hard by (Two Hundred and Seventeenth Street), was a redoubt of two guns, called Cock Hill Fort ; and upon Tetard's Hill, across the creek, was Fort Independence, a square redoubt with bastions. Upon the heights on each side of King's Bridge a bloody fight took place between the British and American forces, January, 1'77'7. The heights command an ex- tended and picturesque view. There was still another military work here, strengthened by the British in 1Y81, and named Fort Prince. The upper end of the island of New York, where we have hngered so long, is rich in scenes and memories of interest ; and the beautiful landscape is yet embellished by abundant traces of its early history. "IToiaJiei'S— (Hotel, Getty House), 1*7 miles up the river, is an ancient settlement at the mouth of the Ne- peran, or Saw-Mill River. Siuce the opening of the Hudson River Railway, it has become a fashionable suburban town of New York, as the short distance thence permits pleasant, speedy, and cheap transport by land or water, Yon- kers was the home of the once famous family of the Phillipses, of which was Mary Phillips, the first love of General Washington. The Manor-House, a spa- cious, edifice of stone, built in 1682, is still to be seen. The present front was added in 174:5. It is now occupied by its present owner, Mr. Woodworth. East of the Phillips manor-house is Locust Hill, where the American troops were encamped in 1781. Near the village is the spot where Colonel Gist was attacked (1778) by a combined force under Tarleton and 33 3obb's FEKuy.] NEW YORK. [Takuytown. )tliers. Ill 1'7'7'7 a naval action occurred n front of Yonkcrs, between the Ameri- can gunboats and tlie British frigates :\oss and Tha-nix. Mr. Frederic Coz- lens, the author, resides at Yonkers. die " Castle " of Mr. Edwin Forrest, vnown as FonthiU, is two and a half miles lorth of Spuyten Duyvel Creek, and just jclow Yonkers. It is now, together with I large and more imposing edifice, owned ind occupied by the Roman Catholic convent and academy of Mount St. V^incent. llasting's, three miles north of i^:)nkers, is a thriving httle village ; the /icinity contains many beautiful resi- iences. The Palisades here recede from /iew on the opposite shore. Hastings has ai'ge marble and stone yards. IPotols's ff'erry, two miles yet jeyond, and still upon the eastern bank )f the river, is an ancient settlement, ivith a new leaven of metropolitan life, ike all the places within an hour or ;wo's journey from New York. The vil- age has a pleasant air, lying along the nver slope, at the mouth of the Wisqua- jua Creek. Its name is that of an old i'amily which once possessed the region md established a ferry. Remains of mlitary v.'orks still exist at Dobb's Ferry. Zion Church is an old and inter- esting edifice. la-vimg'tom & ** Ssiamysifie." [rviugton, four miles above, on the right oank, was once called Dearman, and it ivas expected to grow into a large town, is an outlet of the great Erie Railway, svhicli touches the river opposite at Pier- aiont ; but the- Erie travel was afterward ied to the metropolis through another terminus at Jersey City, and so Irvington IS little more than a railway station to this day. Dearman was rechristened Irvington, in honor of the late Washington Irving, (vhose unique little cottage of Simnyside is close by, upon the margin of the river, iiidden from the eye of the traveller only by the dense growth of the surrounding trees and shrubbery. It is a pretty stone lottage, the eastern side embowered in ivy, the earlier slips of which were pre- 3ented to Irving by Sir Walter Scott, Lit Abbotsford, and were planted by [rvhig himself. Picrmont, on the op- 34 posite (western) shore, is the freight ter- minus of the Erie Railway. Tlie river is here three miles wide, and forms what is known as the Tapjian Zee. The pier projects into the river a distance of one mile, and marks the northern boundary of New Jersey. The view of the river at this point presents a fine picture. Cedar Hill Cottage, the residence of Mr. Lewis Gaylord Clark, crowns an eminence near Piermont. The house v^as originally built by one Woolfert Acker, an original New Yorker, who inscribed over his door his Dutch motto, "Just in Rust." It was thence called " Wool- fert's Rust," since corrupted into " Wool- fert's Roost." Between Irvington and Dobb's Ferry is JS'evis, once the home- stead of Col. James Hamilton. It con- tains many reminiscences of Hamilton, among which is Washington's last por- trait, by Stuart. The residences of Mr. Williams, Mr. Jaffray, and Mr. Cottinet, in this neighborhood, are much admired. Three miles out of Piermont is the old town of Tappan, interesting as having been one of the chief of Washington's headquarters during the Revolution, and as the spot also where Major Andre was imprisoned and executed. The home of the Cominandev-in-Chief and the jail' of the ill-fated ofBcer are still in good pres- ervation, though the latter house has been somewhat modified in its interior arrangements of late years, to suit its present occupancy as a tavern, under the style and title of the " 'Seventy-six Stone- House." The old Dutch church in which Andre was tried, stood near by, but it was torn down in 1836, and a new struc- ture reared upon its site. The spot where the execution took place (October 2, 1*780) is within a short walk of the Old Slone-House in which the prisoner was confined. Nyack, once famous for its quar- ries of red sandstone, is on the west side of the river, above Piermont . Oak Hill Cemetery is a pretty spot, in view from the river. 'Tax*ryto"vni, 26 miles from New York, is a prosperous little town on the eastern bank of the Hudson, con- nected with Nyack by ferry. It has many attractions, historical, pictorial, and social ; elegant villas, chiefly occupied Sing Sing.] NEW YORK. [Croson Point. by New York gentlemen, having gathered thickly around it, as about all th^s part of the river's marge, within the past few years. A short distance up Mill River is the quiet little valley of Sleepy Holhvj, the scene of some of Ii-ving's happiest fancies. OarPts Ifill and the bridge over the^ brook are still standing. The principal objects of interest in the village are those connected, with Irving's life and memory, the Old Dutch Church, jaud near by St. ]i[ark''s, better known as the Memorial Church, the corner- stone of which was laid July 4, 1866. It stands on Broadway, where Ichabod Crane, the village schoolmaster, encoun- tered the " headless horseman," and but a few yards from the spot where Andre was captured. It is in contem- plation to place a marble statue of Irving jn the vestibule of the church. j During the Revolution, Tarrytown wit- nessed many stormy fights between those lawless and marauding bands of both British and Americans, known as "Skin- aers " and " Cowboys." It was upon a ;pot, now in the heart of Tarrytown, that Major Andre was arrested, while return- ng to the British Unes, after a visit to ■fieueral Arnold. A simple monument — m obelisk of granite — now marks the pot, his remains having been removed Westminster Abbey in 1821. At xreenshurg, three miles east of Tarry- .Qwn, is a monument to Isaac Van Wart, me of the captors, who died in 1828. Siiag' Simg'^ 33 miles. — Hotels, American House. — Sing Sing is on the ight banli, and in its acclivitous to- )ography, upon a slope of 200 feet, it nalics a fine appearance from the water. The greatest breadth of .the Hudson, learly four miles, is at this point. Many ine country seats crown the heights of |his pleasant village. It is distinguished 'or its educational establishments ; for its icinage to the mouth of the Croton liver, from whence the city of New York icrives its abundant supply of water ; and »r being the seat of Ihe State Prison Mount Pleasant). The name is derived I'om an Indian word, meaning " Strong 'lace." A fire occurred Sept. 7, 1866. The Croton enters the Hudson two liles above the village, where its artifi- ial passage to the metropolis is begun. The great aqueduct at this point is espe- cially interesting, being carried over the Sing Sing Hill by an arch of stone ma- sonry 88 feet between the abutments, and 100 feet above the water. It was conv menced in 1835, and the entire work com- pleted in 1842, at a cost of $14,000,000. (See Haklem Railway.) The State Prison, which no visitor should fail to see, is located on the banks of the Hudson, nearly three-quar- ters of a mile south of the village. The buildings are large structures, erectea by the convicts themselves^ with mate- rial fi'om the marble and liniestone quar- ries which abound here, and which many of them are continually employed in working. The prisons form three sides of a square. The main edifice is 484 feet long, 44 feet wide, and five stories higli, with cells for 1,000 o»gu- pants, 869 of which were filled in 1852. In 1861 over 1,300 were confined here. The female prisoners are lodged in a fine edifice, some 30 or 40 rods east of the male department The prisoner's are guarded by sentinels, instead of being inclosed by walls. The whole area covered by the establishment is about 130 acres. The railway passes tkrough and beneath the prisons, but from the river they are seen to advantage. Ci°©t©ii. ( Teller'' s) l^oim*-, a promi- nent headland dividing Haverstraw Bay from the Tappan Zee, four miles above Sing Sing, is notewoi'thy for its famous lake whicli supplies the metropolis with water. The dam is 250 feet long, 40 feet high, and YO feet thick at the base. The capacity of the lake is 500,000,000 gal- lons, and it discharges 40,000,000 to 60,000,000 daily. Tea-drieteg'es' Mooli, opposite Sing Sing, is a commanding height, with such a deceptive appearanee, viewed from the river above and below, of a grand headland, that it has been christened Point-no-Point. Upon this mountain suiBmit lies PocHand Lake. It is about four miles in circumference, and forms the source of the Hackensack River, which flows parallel with the Hudson. Though not more than a mile from the Hudson, it is yet 200 feet above it. The ice from this lake is highly esteemed in New York, whither it is annually shipped. 35 Peekskill.] NEW YORK. [Caldwell's Landing. Havemtraw, 36 miles, is also on the west side, one mile from the river. It is a pleasant and prosperous place, with attractive scenery. VerplancFs Point, on the east side, is the spot at which Hendrick Hudson's ship, the Half Moon, first came to anchor after leaving the mouth of the river. Three miles above is Stony Point, the site of a fort during the Revolution. This fort was stormed and carried by General Wayne, July 16, 111^. The present light- house and bell-tower mark the site of the magazine of the old fort, and being objects of much interest, are always pointed out. Half way between the Point and Haver- straw may still be seen the house where Arnold and Andre met and consulted. It is of stone, with a piazza in front, and stands on the hill-side beyond the flats. The creek which winds through the marsh, south of Verplanck's Point, as afterward the peninsula itself, was called Meahagh by the Indians. Stephen Van Cortland purchased it of them in 1683, and it passed from his possession into that of his son, whose only daughter and heiress married Philip Verplanck, from whom its present name. Topographically, Verplanck's Point may be described as a peninsula, gradually rising from a gentle surface, until it terminates in the river in a bold bluff of from 40 to 50 feet eleva- tion. A small fortification, called Fort Fayette, once existed at the western ex- tremity of Verplanck's Point, many re- mains of which are yet distinctly visible. This fort, and that of Stony Point oppo- site, were taken by the English under Sir Henry Chnton, June 1, 1779. I^eelisliill, 42 miles, is one of the most interesting places on the Hudson. It is near the mouth of the Peekskill or Annsville Creek, which enters the Hud- son a short distance above. The town was settled by John Peek, in 1764, an early Dutch navigator of the Hudson, who, as popular tradition runs, mistaking this ci-eek for a continuation of the main stream, ran his boat ashore, and com- menced the future town. Population 3,000. In the Cortlandville Cemetery two miles north of the village, is a marble monument to John Paulding. Pursuing owv voyage up river, we now enter Haverstraw Bay, the second of the 36 great extensions of the Hudson, and the commencement of the magnificent scenery of the Highlands. On our loft rises the rugged front of the Dunderhcrg Moun- tain, at whose base the little hamlet and landing of Caldwell are nestled ; on the right, the village of Peekskill ascends from the shore to the lofty hill summit, and before us is the narrow passage of the river, around the point of the Dunder- borg, the grand base of AntJiony^s None, and other mountain cliffs and precipices. From Gallows Hill or Treason Hill (so called in remembrance of the execution there of the spy Palmer, in the days of the Revolution) northward, a grand pan- orama is exhibited. Here, to the west, overlooking the village, the river, and its mountain shores; there, southward, hill and valley, as far as the high gi'ounds of Tarrytown below; and above, the Cano- pus Valley, in the shadow of the High- land precipices. The division of the American army under Putnam, in 1777, was encamped upon Gallows Hill. Be- neath this lofty ground, and upon the banks of Canopus Creek, is Continental Village, destroyed by General Tryon (Oc- tober 9, 1777), together with the bar- racks, public stores, and many cattle. The Van Cortland House, in the vi- cinity, is an object of interest, as the an- cient seat of an ancient family, and as the temporary residence of Washington. Near by is a venerable church, erected in 1767, within whose graveyard there is a monu- ment to the memory of John Paulding, one of the captors of Major Andre. A pleasant ride from Peekskill is to Lake Mahopac, a fashionable summer resort for the pleasure-seekers of New Yoi*k. (See Index.) Calcl-^tvell's S^E^nding'. at the foot of Dunderberg Mountain, three miles above Stony Point, was long a calling- place for the river steamers. The pas- sengers for Peekskill, opposite, were then always landed at Caldwell. This spot is memorable for the search so seriously and actively made for the treasure which the famous pirate Captain Kidd was sup- posed to have secreted at the bottom of the river here. Remains of the apparatus used for this purpose are still seen, in bold, black relief, at the Dunderberg Point, as the boat rounds it, toward the The Highlands.] NEW YORK. [West Point. Horse-Race. This Quixotic exploration has at least proved to a certainty that much valuable treasure now lies buried here, however uncertain the matter was before ! At PeekskiJl the river makes a sudden turn to the west, which is called the race. From this point to Newburg the scenery is very fine. The Highlands. — This grand mountain- group, through which the Hudson now makes its way, extends from northeast to southwest, over an area of about 16 by 25 miles. The landscape which these noble heights and their picturesque and changeful forms present is of unrivalled magnificence and beauty, whether seen from their rugged summits or from the river gorges. Thus says Theodore Fay of these scenes : " By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise At every turn the vision breal^s upon. Till to our wondei'ing and uplifted eyes The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise. " Nor cloiids in heaven, nor billows in the deep More graceful shapes did ever heave or roll ; Nor came such pictures to a painter's sleep. Nor beamed such vision on a poet's soul I The pent-up flood, impatient of control, In ages past here broke its granite boand. Then to the sea in broad meanders stole. While ponderous ruin strewed the broken ground. And these gigantic hills for ever closed around." Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory on our right, which rises to the height of 1,128 feet, the base of which has been tunnelled by the railway a length of 200 feet. Two miles above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an elevation of 865 feet. Near by, and reaching far out into the river, is a sandy bluif, on which Fort In- dependence once stood. Further on is Beverly Island, and in the extreme dis- tance Bear Mountain. Forts Clinton and Montgomery, taken by the British troops, after traversing the Dunderberg mountain, are in this vicinity ; and so, too, a little lake called Skinnipink or Bloody Pond, where a disastrous skirmish occurred on the eve of the capture of the forts, and the consequent opening to the enemy of the passage to the Highlands. On this (the west) side of the river, the Buttermilk Falls are seen descending over inclined ledges, a distance of 100 feet. In the heart of the Highland pass, and just below West Point, on the west bank, is Cozzens\ a spacious and elegant sum- mer hotel, which comes most charmingly into the pictures of the vicinity. It is accessible, as is West Point, at the same time, from the railway on the opposite side of the river, by a steam feny from Gar- rison's Station (51 miles from New York) between Peeksliill below and Cold Spring above. The concourse of sail sometimes windlocked in the angles of this moun- tain-pass present a novel sight. Constitution Island, with the rocky plateau of West Point, now bars our view of the upper portion of the Highland passage. Rounding it, we come into that wonderful reach of the river, flanked on the west by Cro''nest and But- ter Hill, or Storm King, and on the east, by the jagged acclivities of Breakneck and Bull Hill, with the pretty village of Cold Spring beneath. Constitution Isl- and, called, prior to the Revolution, Mar- telear's Rock, was fortified, together with West Point, in l'7'75-"76. The remains of the magazines and other portions of the fort are still standing. "^^est ff^oisat. — Hotels, The West Point (Roe's), on the terrace, and Cox- zeals' below. West Point (51 miles), as well on ac- count of its famous military school and historical associations, as for its varied and unique scenic attractions, is one of the most charming places on the Hudson. The hotels, though well kept, are not large, and those intending to make a stay there, en route to or from New York, would do well to order rooms in advance. Cozzens' was first opened in 1849, since which time the late Lieutenant-General Scott was accustomed to make it his summer headquarters. The best months in which to visit West Point ai-e July and August — not only for viewing the river scenery, which is extremely luxuri- ant at that season, but on account of the military exercises, better known as " exhi- bitions," in which all the cadets join. Tlie United States Military Academy^ established in 1802, will first attract the visitor's attention. The buildings em- brace the barracks, with accommodation ^^EST Point.] NEW YORK. [Cro'nest. )v 250 cadets; a large stone building 3r military exercises, a laboratory, obser- atory, chapel, hospital, rcess-room, and fficers' ([uarters. The academy is of tone, 275 feet long by '75 feet wide, and bree stories high. The land belonging the academy or post, 250 acres in es- cnt, was ceded by New York to the Gen- ral Government in 1826. Among the -bjects of interest to be seen in and round the academy buildings ai-e some evolutionary relics and cannon captured 11 the Mexican war, and a brass mortar aken from the British at Stony Point. The cliapd is an interesting edifice, ren- lered still more so by the associations onnecting it v.'ith the recent demise and ibsequies of Lieutenaut-Geueral Scott, rho died at West Point, May 29, 1866. .'he Parade- Ground, on band afternoons, ffords a characteristic and striking )hase of West Point life. Kosciusl'd's Garden and Monmnent are •n the river bank near the parade-ground. Phe walk thither, overhung with trees md shrubbery, is known as Flirtation Walk. The monument is of white marble. ;t was erected by the corps of cadets m .828, and cost $5,000. Near Kosciusko's ::arden is a fine spring, said to have been liscovered by Kosciusko himself, with leats for visitors. The remains of Ports Clinton, PutnTim, Webb, and Wyllys, are lometimes visited. From the ruins of :'utnam, on Mount Independence, 600 eet above the river, a view is obtained vhich will well repay the labor of reach- ng it. The visitor will delight his eye it all points, whether he gaze upon the iuperb panorama of the river as he sits ipon the piazza of the hotel upon the pla- teau, or as he looks upon the scene from the yet loftier eminence above, crowned by the ruins of ancient fortresses ; or strolls amidst the interlacing walks, with aew vistas of beauty and fresh memories [)f a gallant gone-by at every turn and step. A mile north of West Point is the celebrated foundery of P. P. Parrott, the inventor of the Parrott gun. The JRobinsoti or Beverly Souse, oc- cupied by Arnold at the time of his meditated treason, and whence he made his escape to a British vessel, the "Vulture," lying near by in the river, is on the opposite (east) bank, at the foot 38 of Sugar-Loaf Mountain, a pleasant drive of font or five miles south from Cold Spring. It has been since known as Ar- denia Cold Spring, and is two miles north of Garrison's Station, on the Hudson River Railway. It has large foundcries and machine-shops. Cro^ncst casts its broad shadow upon us as we continue our voyage up from West Point. This is one of the highest mountains found in the Highland group. Its height is 1,428 feet. The poet Morris has happily sung the beauties of these bold cliffs : " Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sands "Wind through the hills afar, And Cro'nest lilce a monarch stands, Crowned with a single star." Cro'nest is the scene of Rodman Drake's poem of " The Culprit Fay." This picturesque height, viewed from the deck of the steamer on a clear sum- mer's night, will vividly recall to the traveller's mind those lines of the poet : " 'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night, — The earth is dar'u, but the heavens are bright; Naught is seen in the vault on high, But the moon, and tha stars, and the clond- leES sky. And the flood which rolls its milky hue, — A river of light on the welkin blue. The moon loots down on old Crow Nest, She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, And seems his huge gray form to throw In a silver cone on the wave below ; His sides are broken by spots of shade. By the walnut-boughs and the cedar made. And through their clustering branches dark Glimmers and dies the firefly's spark. Like starry twinkles that momently break Through the rifts of the gathering tempest rack." Butter Hill (" Boterberg ") is the next mountain crest, and the last of the High- land range upon the west. It is 1,529 feet high. Between Cro'nest and Butter Hill, and in the laps of both, is a lovely valley, re- plete with forest and brook beauties, called Tempe. Cold Sprinff and " JJndercIif." — Cold Spring is one of the most picturesque of the villages of the Hudson, whether seen from the water or from the hills behind, or' in detail amidst its little streets and villa homes. It is built upon a steep ascent, and behind it is the mas- i Newburg.] NEW YORK. [POTJGHKEEPSIE. sive grauite crown of Bull Hill. This noble mountain overshadows the beauti- ful terrace upon which the late lamented poet Morris lived in the rural seclusion of " TJndercliff " for many years. It is scarcely possible to find a spot of sweeter natural attractions than the site of Un- dercliff, looking over the pretty village to the castellated hills of West Point, across the blue Hudson to old Cro'nest, or northward beyond the Newburg Bay, to the far away ranges of the Kuatskill. Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the cast bank of the river, the Highland range is continued in the jagged preci- pices, of the Breakneck and Beacon Hills, in height, respectively, I.ISY and 1,685 feet. These mountains are among the most commanding features of the river scenery. Cornivall Landing is a rugged and pic- jturesque little place, on the west bank. 'Back from the landing is the pleasant ivillage of Ganierbvrv. ""lcllovild.9"' Mr.^Willis's roman- itic home, occupies a lofty plateau above, and north of the village. It is easily reached by either the Newburg or Corn- iwall road. New Windsor, between " Idlewild " and Newburg, and once the rival of the lat- ter, is a straggling hamlet of Revolution- ry memory. Washington established his headquarters at New Windsor, June 23, 1'7'79, and again in IV8O. His resi- ,dence, a plain Dutch house, has long isince passed away, as has also the famous !" TemjDle of Virtue." At Moodna, two miles back of the landing, is a large paper- mill. Flum Point, on the west side, has some residences. Between New Windsor and Newburg 5s Cedar Lawn, the homestead of the ^Rev. J. T. Headley. i j^ewl»ii.i*g', with a population of lear 15,000, and its social and topo- graphical attractions, is one of the argest and most delightful towns on the 3udson. Eising, as it does, rather pre- ;ipitously from the water to an elevation )f 800 feet, it presents a very imposing ront to the voyager. The higher grounds ire occupied by beautiful residences and illas. The place was originally settled )y emigrant Palatines in 1*798. It has mmediate railway communication west- ward up the Quassic Creek, via Ches- ter (20 miles), by the Newburg branch of the Erie Railway. It is a place of considerable trade, and has some extensive manufactories. The home of the lamented landscape gardener and horticultural writer. Downing, was here. Newburg was the theatre of many inter- esting events in the war of the Revo- lution. Wccs7iinfffo?i's Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion, built by Mr. Hasbrouck, in 1*750, stand a short dis- tance south of the village. It was here the Revolutionary army was finally disbanded at the close of the war, June 23, 1*783. Apart from the historical interest connect- ed with the site, it commands a fine view of the great pass of the Highlands. It is owned by the State. The principal hotels are the Poioelion and Orange. The Whar- ton House was used during the Revolu- tion as a barracks. Many of the scenes in Cooper's novel of " The Spy " are laid in Newburg. Fishkill Landing, 60 miles from New York, and opposite Newburg ferry, like that village and all the region round, abounds in natural beauties and elegant residences. It is a small place, with a population of 1,800. It lies in the lap of a lovely, fertile plain, which reaches back from the landing to the base of a bold mountain range. A portion of the Con- tinental army was encamped here. The village of Fishkill is situated on a creek of the same name, five miles east of the river. Two miles northeast of Fishkill Land- ing is the Verjylanck House, interesting as having once been the headquarters of Baron Steuben, and the place in which the famous Society of the Cincinnati was organized in 1*783. Maiteaiuan, a manu- facturing point, is about a mile from the landing. Low Point, three miles above Pishkill Landing, is a small river hamlet. New Hamburg comes next, near the mouth of Wappinger's Creek, and a little north is the village of Marlborough, with Barnegat, famous for its lime-kilns, two miles yet beyond. S?oaag-Iilceepsie, '75 miles, is one of the largest towns between New York and Albany. Its population is 1*7,000. It contains about 20 churches, four banks, 39 Kingston.] NEW YORK. [Kaatskill Mountains. and three or four newspapers. It lias a variety of manuiactories ; and the rich agricultural region behind it makes it the depot of a busy trade. College Hill, the site of the collegiate institution, half a mile northeast, is a commanding eleva- tion, overlooking the river and the re- gion around. Poughkecpsie was foimded by the Dutch in 1705. It is symmetrically built upon an elevated plain half a mile east of the river. It has no historical associa- tions of especial interest. Professor Morse, the inventor of the electric tele- graph, and Benson J. Lossing, author of the " Field Book of the Revolution," re- side here. The Gregory House and the Exchange are the leading hotels. JSfeiv Paltz Landing, on the opposite side of the river, is reached by ferry. Hyde Parl% 80 miles above New York, is a quiet Httle village on the east side of the river, in the midst of a country of great fertility, and thronged with wealthy homesteads and sumptuous villas. It is named after Sir Edmund Hyde, Lord Cornbury, one of the early provincial governors. Placentia, once the home of Paulding, is near by, and commands a magnificent view of the river windings far above, even to the peaks of the dis- tant Kaatskills. Staatshurg is upon, the railvray, five miles above. l£oii(loi8.t, near the mouth of Ron- dout Creek, is the terminus of the Dela- ware and Hudson Canal, and connects with Rhinebeck by ferry. It has extensive manufactories of cement, and a popula- tion of 7,500, chiefly Germans and Irish. Miiig'Stosi, two miles above Ron- dout, is a thriving and pleasant place. It was settled by the Dutch (1663), about the time of the settlement of Albany and New York. It was burnt by the British (1777). The first Constitution of New York was framed and adopted in a house still standing here. It was the birth- place of Vanderlyn the painter. He died here in 1853. Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New York, is on the railway opposite Kmgs- ton, and is connected with that village by a fcri-y. The river presents some attrac- tive views at this point. The village of Ehhiehcch is two miles back from the landing. It was founded by William 40 Beckman in 1047. The BccJcman House is one of the best specimens of an old Dutch homestead to be found in the val- ley of the Hudson. The Exchange Hotel has accommodation for visitors. Saugeriiea and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other on the east bank of the river, next attract our attention. Saugerties is a picturesque and pros- perous manufacturing village, at the dihoucli'e of the beautiful waters of Esopus Creek. Bokeby, the estate of Wm. B. Astor, Esq., is a short distance south of Barrytown. Between Barrytown and Tivoli are Anncmdale and Montgomery Place, the seats of Jolm Bard and Edsvard Livingston. Passing Maiden, on the left and Ger- mantoion on the right bank, we reach Oakhill Station, the point of departure on the Hudson River Railway for Kaats- kill. Opposite Maiden stands Clermont, the seat of the Jate Chancellor Livings- ton. Kaatskill, or Catskill, lies at the mouth of the Kaatskill Creek, on the west banV of the Hudson. The site of the town i somewhat elevated, and commands e ■ tensive views of the river and distant hills. The banks of the creek abound in varied and attractive scenery, and are annually the resort of city artists, bent on obtaining fresh studies. Here the lamented Cole painted his " Course of Empire" and "Voyage of Life." Here, too, Charles Moore "resides; and Thomas Nast, the spirited artist of "Harper's Weekly," and others, have also taken up a temporary residence in the village. The Hudson River House, by J. T. Huntley, affords excellent accommodation for those visiting Kaatskill village. The Catskill Hoiosc, opposite the stage-office, is also a well-kept house. TSE KAATSKILL MOUNTAIN'S. To reach the Kaatskills from New York we will follow our previous routes up the Hudson to the village of Kaatskill (111 miles), or the railway to Oakhill Station opposite, crossing thence to Kaatskill by ferry. Time from New York to the Moun- tain" House eight to nine hours. Immediate connection between the landing and the ? Kaatskill Mountains.] NEW YORK. [Kaaterskill Falls. moimtains by Beach's stage line. Fare, , The Kaatskills are a part of the great Appalachian chain, which extends through the eastern portion of the Union from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico. Their chief ranges follow the course of the Hud- son River for 20 to 30 miles, lying west of it, and separated by a valley stretch of 10 to 12 miles. These peaks lend to the landscape of that pai't of the Hudson from which they are visible its greatest charm. 2'he Mountain House is reached by a pleasant stage-coach ride, wliich usually occupies tliree hours. Mooni's Half-way House affords refreshment for stage passengers. Two miles from the summit the coach stops at Sleepy Hol- low, a spot usually conceded to be the site of Rip Van Winkle's famous nap. Here a house of refreshment has recently been built ; it is known as the " Rip Van Winkle House," and is kept by Mr. Ira Saxe. The Mounicmi Rouse is an excel- lent one, combining all the comforts and many of the luxuries of more pretentious testabhshments. Its original cost was 20,000, and it has been repeatedly en- larged and improved. Charles L. Beach is the proprietor. The last three miles of the journey to the hotel is up the sic^e pf the mountain, made easy by a good .winding way. Jfoses Hock. — The path leading to this retired spot is passed on the left of the road, a short distance south of the hotel. A most superb view is had from the piazza of the Hudson River and valley, and of the mountain ranges of New England in the distance. Sunrise on the Catskills, as seen from the Mountain House, has been thus poetically described by an old Knickerbocker con- tributor : I' Then rouse ye up its kind approach to greet. With sunrise on the mountain-tops, and stay Fo mark how all that's glorious, lair, and sweet, Coraes forth revealed by the bright god of nay ; Vnd r.s upon the magic scone yon gaze, It seems His own creation strikes you with amaze. \.s we from this proud height the earth behold, Ushered into his presence ; and the flash )f his first beams, reveals an outline bold. The distant hills imprinted at one dash, n dark relief upon the glowing sky, To fade there through each shade o Uue Mil evening die. In favorable weather the cities of Albany and Troy can be seen with the aid of a good glass. North Mountain furnishes a pleasant ramble for the visitor at the Mountain House ; the best view .is obtained from Table Rock, three-quarters of a mile north of the hotel. Soiith Mountain is another favorite ramble, commanding a view of the Kaaterskill Pass. The Two Lakes, north and south, are reached n a short stroll from the hotel, being on the direct road to the falls. They afford good fishing. The Kaaterskill or High Falls are two miles west of the Mountain House, easily reached by stage, or boat on the lake. The Laurel House commands an excellent view of the falls, and of Round Top and High Peak, in the immediate neighborhood. The descent of the first cascade is 180 feet, and of the second 80 feet; below these is another fall of 40 feet, making the to- tal descent 300 feet. The Kaaterskill has a devious and rapid course of eight miles to the Kaatskill, near the village. To see the falls to the best advantage, the visitor should descend the winding stairs leading from the platform of the hotel, and spend an hour or two in ex- ploring the gorge and glen below. Re- freshments, if desired, can be supplied from the dizzy height by means of bas- ket and rope. Mr. Scutt, the proprietor of the falls, resides at the Laurel House, and personally provides for the wants of visitors. Guides to the falls and to the neighboring Cloves are furnished at the Laurel House ; a charge of 25 cents is made to each passenger for showing the falls. Livery can also be obtained at reasonable prices. Fenimore Cooper, in his story of " The Pioneer," thus describes these cascades : " The water comes croaking and wind- ing among the rocks, first, so slow that a trout might swim in it, then starting and running like any creature that wanted to make a fair spring, till it gets to where the mountain divides like the cleft foot of a deer, leaving a deep hollow for the brook to tumble into. The first pitch is nigh 200 feet, and the water looks like flakes of snow before it touches the bottom, and then 41 Kaaterskill Falls.] NEW YORK. [IICDSON. gathers itself together again for a new start ; and may be flutters over 50 feet of Hat rock before it i'alls for another 100 feet, wlien it jumps from shelf to shelf, first running tliis way and that way, striving to get out of the hollow, till it finally "gets to the plain." This branch of the Kaaterskill comes from the waters of the two lakes on the plateau above ; and, as the supply has to be economized in order that the cascades may look their best when they have company, the stream is dammed, and the flood is let on at proper times only. We have now peeped at all the usual " sights " of the region ; but there are other chapters of beauty, perhaps, yet more inviting. Let the tourist, if he be adventurous and is a true lover of Nature, follow the brook down from the base of the cataracts we have just described, into the principal clove; then let him ascend the m.ain stream for a mile over huge boulders, through rank woods, and many by-cas- cades, which, if smaller, are still more picturesque than those "nominated in the bond ; " or, let him descend the creek two miles, sometimes by the edge of the bed of the waters, and when that is impracticable, by the turii-pike road, which traverses the great clove or pass. At every turn and step there will be a new picture — sometimes a iinique rapid or fall, sometimes a soaring mountain cliff, sometimes a rude bridge across the foaming torrent, sometimes a little hut or cottage, and, at last, as he comes out toward the valley on the east, the humble village of Palenville. This portion of the Kaatskills is that most preferred by artists for study, and the inns at Palen- ville are often occupied by them, though they offer but little inducement to the ease and comfort loving tourist to tarry. Another nice excursion from the Mountain House is a ride along the ridge five or six miles, to the entrance of the Stony Clove (Bear's Gap), and thence through the wilderness of this fine pass. The Mountcdn Home^ at Tannersville, by Gray and Mulford, is a desirable stop- ping-place for visitors to this region. High Peak, the most elevated of the Kaatskill summits, towering 4,000 feet high, should certainly be climbed, in order to see the region fairly. It is six miles 42 west of the Mountain House, is a long and toilsome journey for many, but it well repays for the labor of reaching it. The Mountain House, seen from High Peak, looks like a pigmy in the vale. Plmdirlill Clove is another grand pass on the hills, five miles below the Kaat- ci'skill passage. A mountain torrent, full of beauties in glen, and rock, and cascade, winds through it. The touiis't here will recall Bryant's lines : " Midst greens and shades the Katterskill leaps From cliffs where the wood-J3ower clings ; All summer he moistens his verdant steeps With the light spray of the mountain springs ; And he shakes the woods on the mf untain side, "When they drip with the rains of the autumn tide. " But when, in the forest bare and <»ld. The blast of December calls, He builds in the starlight, clear and cold, A palace of ice where his torrent falls. With turret, and arch, and fretwotk fair, A.nd pillars clear as the summer air. " Mr. T. Addison Eichards, tlie artist, thus writes of the winter aspect of these falls : "The cataracts of the Catskills in win- ter, when the spray is frozen into a myr- iad fantastic forms, all glowing like the prism, as the clear cold sanhght reveals these mystical wonders, is a sight so g'rand and novel as to w.ll repay the ex- posure and fatigue of a visit thither through bleak January's snows and ice." To visit the Kaatskills comfortably, three days will suffice for the joui'ney thence by rail from New York, for the stay and the return to the city. Not less than four, however, ought to be thus in- vested, if one would make sure of a satis- factory dividend ; and if a week is at command, so much the happier he who commanfjs it. M TO «I s © m . — Hotels, llie IRidson House, North Hovse. — Passing Moiint Merino, about four miles above Kaatskill, the city of Hudson, 115 miles from' New York, is next reached. It was settled in 1784, by Quakers from New England. The main street (Warren), which runs through the heart of the city from east to west, terminates at the river extrem- ity in a pleasant little park called Frome- TMde Hill, on a bold promontory, rising abruptly 60 feet above the water ; while the other terminus climbs to the foot of Prospect Hill, an elevation of 200 feet. Athens.] NEW YORK. [Albany. From these heights the views of the Kaats- kills, on the opposite side of the Hudson River, and of the river and city of Hud- son, are incomparably fine. It is at the head of sloop navigation on the river. It contains a fine court-house of marble, several elegant church edifices, and a Female Seminary, which occupies the for- mer Lunatic Asylum. It is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railway. Population, 12,000. New Lebanon Springs have fine me- dicinal properties, and are much resorted to during the summer months. The route thither from Hudson is by the Hudson and Boston Railroad to Canaan, and thence by stage. The manufacture of thermometers and barometers is exten- sively carried on here. Columbia Hall is the best hotel. The Shaker Village, with its unique features of social life, is woi'th visiting. The settlement is two miles from the Springs, and is situated in a charming valley, richly skirted l^y woods. The Herbery for the vegetable curing process, in which the Shakers are so proficient, and many of the farms, are well- worth the attention of strangers. (See Lebanon Springs.) Columbia Springs, five miles from Hud- son, is a summer resort of great value to invalids, and of interest to all. The Clav- erack Falls, some eight miles off, should not be overlooked by the visitor. Athens, is a little village with a pop- ulation of 2,000, directly opposite Hud- son, and connected with it by a steam ferry. Stockport and Coxsackie are bustling and thriving little places immediately be- yond Athens. Kinderhook Landing. — The village of Kinderhook, about five miles east of the landing, on the east side of the river, is the birthplace of Martin Van Buren, the eighth President of the United States. His estate of " Lindenwald," where he spent the last years of his life, is situated two miles south of the village. New Bcdtimore and Coeymans, are now passed on the left, and Schodack and CasUeton on the right. Two miles below Albany, at a place called Remvood, is an immense stone dike, built by the government in 1832, at the cost of a quarter million dollars. Al'bamy. — Hotels, the Delavan House, Stanwix Hall. Albany was founded by the Dutch, first as a trading-post, on Castle Island, directly below the site of the present city, in 1614. Fort Orange was built where the town now stands, in 16S3 ; and, next to Jamestown in Virginia, was the ear- liest European settlement in the original thirteen States. The town was known as Beaver Wyck, and as Williamsiadt, before it received its present name in honor of James, duke of York and Al- bany, afterward James the Second, at the period when it fell into British pos- session, 1664. It was chartered in 1686, and made State capital in 1*798. It is divided into 10 wards, and had a popula- tion-in 1865 of about 75,000. It has a large commerce from its position at the head of sloop navigation and tide- water upon the Hudson, as the entrepot of the great Erie Canal from the west, and the Champlain Canal from the north, and as the centre to which many routes and lines of travel converge. The boats of the canal are received in a grand basin constructed ia the river, with the help of a pier 80 feet wide and 4,300 feet long. Albany, seen from some points on the river, makes a very fine appearance, the ground rising westward from the low Hats on the shore to an elevation of some 220 feet. State Street ascends in a steep grade from the water to the height crowned by the State capitol. The water-works, built 1852 and '53, at a cost of one million dollars, are worth see- ing. Among the public buildings . are the Capitol, the State House, the City Hall, the Hospital, the Penitentiary (a model prison), the Aims-House, and more than 50 church edifices. Of the latter, the ca- thedral {Immaculate Conception), on Ea- gle Street, and the Church of St. Joseph, on Ten Broeck Street, corner of Second, are the most prominent structures. The cathedral has sittings for 4,000. and a powerful organ. The stained windows, by Gibson, of New York, are among the finest specimens of art in the country. The Capitol occupies the west side of the public square, the State House and City Hall the east The latter, com- 43 Greenbush.] NEW YORK, [Trot. pleted December, 1 832, is built of marble, surmounted by a dome, from which a fine view is obtained. ' The State Library, ad- joining the Capitol, has upward of 60,000 volumes. The Dudley Observatory, found- ed ))}' the munificence of Mrs. Blandina Dudley, was erected at a cost of $25,000, and lias been further endowed to the amount of $100,000. It stands on Ob- servatory Hill, near the northern limits. The State Arsenal, on Eagle Street, is a large gloomy structure, in the castellated style. The ITniversity of Albany was incor- porated in 1852. The Law Department is now one of the best in the Union. Tlie Medical College, which was founded in 1839, is a prosperous establishment, with an extensive Museum. The State Wor- med School was organized successfully in 1844, for " the education and practice of teachers of common schools in the sci- ence of education and the art of teach- ing." The Albany Institute, organized, 1*791, for scientific advancement, has a library of 9,000 vohimes. Admission through a member. The Young Men's Association, 38 State Street, has a collec- tion of 12,000 volumes ; the Apprentices'' Library, 5,000. The edifice on State Street where are deposited the public collections in Natural History, and in Geology and in Agriculture, is most in- teresting. The OrpJian Asylum and other benevolent establishments of this city, are well worth the consideration of the tourist. The distinguished sculptor, E. C. Palmer, resides here. His studio. No. 5 Fayette Place, is frequently visited by strangers. Portions of the Va7i Rens- selaer llansion, built in 1*765, and the Sclmyler Jlouse, built on the site of the original house in which Peter Schuyler, the first mayor of the city, lived, are still standing. Greenbnsh, the former terminus of the Hudson River Railway, is immediately opposite. It is now connected with Al- bany by bridge. It is incorporated, and includes Bath and East Albany. Popula- tion, 4,000. Trains leave Albany for New York, by the Hudson River and Harlem Railways, almost hourly ; for the west by the Cen- tral, and for Boston by the Western (Mass.) Railway, several times each day. For Saratoga and the north, one express 44 through train leaves early in the morn- ing. Day boats down the Hudson at V^ A. M., and night boats at 8 p. si. To Kaatskill, steamers daily. Troy. — Hotels, American Hotel^ Mansion House, Troy House. Troy is a large and beautiful city of 60,000 inhab- itants, including suburban settlements. It stands upon both banks of the Hud- son, at the mouth of the Poestenkill Creek, 151 miles from New York^ and six from Albany. It is built upon an allu- vial plain, overlooked on the east side by the classic heights of Mount Ida, and on the north by the barren cliifs of Mount Olympus, 200 feet high. These elevated points command superb views of the city and its charming vicinage, and of the great waters of the Hudson. Troy lies along the river for the length of three miles, and extends back a mile from east to west. It boasts many fine churches and public buildings, and several hand- some private mansions and cottages : among the former the Episcopal churches of St. Paid and St. John are best worthy notice. The Female Seminary, estab- lished in 1821, and the Rensselaer Poly- technic Listitute, are flourishing institu- tions. It has extensive manufactures, and enjoys a large and growing trade by river and rail. Four main lines of rail- way meet at this point, viz. : the Hudson River, the Troy and Boston, the Schenec- tady and Troy, and the Saratoga and Rensselaer roads, which are united in one depot by means of the Union (city) Railroad. Cars leave Troy for Green- bush (six miles) every hour. Stages to Albany, Cohoes, Lansingburg, and va- rious neighboring points. West Troy, a suburb of Troy, on the other side of the river, is a rapidly growing place. The inhabitants are employed prin- cipally in manufactures. A line macad- amized road leads from West Troy to Al- bany, a distance of six miles. Horse cars to Albany every fifteen minutes. The Wcdervliet (U. S.) Arsenal, in West Troy, has a large and constant supply of small-arms, and various munitions of war. This is one of the most important of the national depots, and is worthy the attention of the traveller. It was built in 1814, and occupies 100 acres of ground. Green Island Village, near i Route III.] NEW YORK. [Lake Mahopac. West Troy, has an extensive car and coach factory. Oakwood and Mount Ida Cemeteries are worth visiting. The for- mer is in Lansingburg, and occupies a beautiful site overlooking the city. This route may very profitably be, and generally is, extended to Saratoga and Lakes Ghamplain and George, and even to Montreal ; but these and other points en route thither, will be found in their appropriate places, on reference to the Index. ROUTE III. NEW YORK TO ALBANY. ( Via. K Y. & Ilarlem liailroad.) This route extends from the heart of the city of New York to the State capital, skirting in its course the eastern portions of all those counties lying upon the Hud- son and traversed by the river railway. The distance between the termini is 154 ,miles, four miles longer than that of the [Hudson River. The stations and towns upon the Harlem road are, for the most part, inconsiderable places, many of them jhaving grown up with the road. The country passed through is varied and picturesque in surface, and much of it is rich agricultural land. It does not com- pare with the river route in scenic attrac- tions. Stations.— Twenty-sixth Street Sta- tion; Forty-second Street, 3^ miles ; Harlem, 7 ; Mott Haven, 8 ; Melrose, 9 ; Morrisania, 10; Tremont, 11; Fordham, 12; Williams Bridge, 14 (Junction of the New York and New Haven Road) ; Bronxville, 18; Tuckahoe, 19 ; Scarsdale, 22; Hart's Corners, 24; White Plains, 26 ; Kensico, 29 ; Unionville, 31 ; Pleas- antville, 34 ; Chapequa, 36 ; Mount Kisco, 40 ; Bedford, 42 ; Katonah, 45 ; Golden Bridge, 4*7; Purdy's, 49; Croton Falls, 51 ; Brewster's, 55 ; Dykman's, 58 ; Tow- Qcr's, 61 ; Paterson's, 63 ; Pawling's, 67 South Dover, 73 ; Dover Furnace, 76 Dover Plains, 80 ; Wassaic, 84 ; Amenia S8; Sharon Station, 91; Millerton, 96 Mount Riga, 99 ; Boston Corners, 103 Copake, 108 ; Hillsdale, 112 ; Bains, 115 Martindale, 118; Philmont, 122; Ghent, 128; Chatham Pom' Corners, 131 (Junc- tion with railway route from Albany and from Hudson for Boston) ; East Albany, 154 miles, connects with Troy and Green- bush Railroad. On leaving the city streets, the road passes under a considerable extent of .tunnelling and continued bridging across thoroughfares, and reaches the extremity of the island and city of New York at Harlem, where it crosses the Harlem River into Westchester County. White Plains, 26 miles, is interesting as the scene of important events in the Revolution. An eventful battle was fought here, October 28, 1776. A resi- dence of Washington (in which are some attractive relics) is yet standing in the vicinage. Croton Falls, 51 miles, upon the river which supplies the great Croton Aqueduct to the city of New York, are worth see- ing. Passengers for Lake Mahopac, five miles distant, take stage here. JLa^ke Ma^ltopsac. — Hotels, Gre- gory's, Baldwiti's, and Thompson's. This pleasant summer resort lies in the west- ern part of the town of Carmel, Putnam County. The lake is nine miles in cir- cumference, and is about 1,800 feet above the sea. It is one of the principal sources of supply to the Croton. Though the landscape has no very bold features, and but little to detain the artist, yet its quiet waters, its pretty wooded islands, the ro- mantic resorts in its vicinage, the throngs of pleasure-seeking strangers, the boating and fishing, and other rural sports, make it a most agreeable spot for either a brief visit or a long residence. There are many attractive locaUties of hill and water scenery around Mahopac. The pleasant hotels are well filled during the season by boarders or by passing guests. It is a nice retreat to those whose business in the great city below forbids their wander- ing far away. L'over Plains, 20 miles east of Pough- keepsie, and 80 from New York, is sur- rounded by much pleasing landscape. (For Albany and Troy, and routes thence by Hudson River and railways, see In- dex.) A pleasant short tour may. be made by taking this route to Troy or Albany, and returning by the Hudson River, visiting the Kaatskills and West Point on the way back. From.Albanv 45 Saratoga. Springs.] NEW YORK. [Saratoga. the most pleasant and popular route is that to Saratoga and neighboring springs and the lakes, whieh we shall next give. ROUTE IV>, ALBANY TO SARATOGA AND LAKE GEORGE. Via Rensselaer and Saratoga (Conwlidated) Railway. Stations. — Troy Union Depot ; Green Island, 1 mile ; Waterford, 4 ; Albany Junction, 6 ; Mechanicsville, 12 ; Ballston, 25 ; Saratoga, 32 ; Gansevoort, 48 ; Mo- reau, 49 ; Fort Edward, 52 ; Dunham's Basin, 5*7; Smith's Basin, 61; Fort Anne, 65; Comstock's Landing, 71; Junction, 73 ; Lake Champlain Junction, 77 ; Fair- haven, 79; Hydeville, 81 ; Castleton, 84; West Rutland, 91 ; Rutland, 95. BfEllston Spaisupon theKayade- rosseros Creek, a small stream which flows through the village, 25 miles from Troy and 7 miles from Saratoga Springs. Its mineral waters, which were discovered in 1769, are celebrated for their medicinal qualities, although not so popular as they were formerly, those of Saratoga being now generally preferred. A flourishing seminary has been established near the centre cf the village on the site of the former Saiw Soim Hotel. The village has railway connection with Schenectady, dis- tant 15 miles. Long Lalce, a famous fish- ing resort, is five miles distant. Sai"i«,tog-a Spring's. — Hotels : the most desirable hotels remaining at Saratoga are the Union Hall and the Cla- rendon. The United States and Congress Hall were destroyed by fire, the former in 1865, the latter in 1866. Besides these houses, there are many of less fashion and price, besides numerous private boarding- houses, where one may live quietly at a moderate cost. The hotels which we have named have accommodation for 1,500 to 2,000 guests. Attached to the Union is an opera-house, capable of seat- ing 1,500 persons, billiard-rooms, baths, etc. Fine bands of music discourse on the broad, shady piazzas, and in the ball- rooms at the dinner and evening hours. The Clarendon is an elegant, spacious house, lately erected on the brow of the 46 hill overlooking Congress and Columbia Springs. Route. — From Boston, by the Western Railway, 200 miles to Albany ; or, from New York, by the Hudson River line or steamboats, 144 miles to Albany, or 150 miles to Troy. From either place, by the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway, through Ballston Springs. The short ride from Troy to the Springs -is a most agreeable one. The route crosses and follows the Hudson and the Mohawk Rivers, to Waterford at the meeting of these waters, four miles above Troy, and near the Cohoes Falls, a much admired and frequented resort upon the Mohawk, thence continuing upon the west b_ank of the Hudson, eight miles farther to Mechanicsville. It afterward crosses the canal, passes Round Lake, and enters Ballston Springs. During the summer-, a car on the Hud- son River Railway express trains from New Yoi'k passes through to the Springs without change. Passengers ina Albany for the Springs change cars at Albany. Saratoga has been for many years, and still is, and probably always will be, the most famous place of summer resort in the United States, frequented by Ameri- cans from all sections, and by foreign tourists from all parts of Europe. Dur- ing the height of the season the arrivals frequently outnumber a thousand in a single day. There is nothing remarkable about the topography or scenery of Sara- toga ; on the contrary, the spot would be uninteresting enough but for the virtues of its vraters and the dissipations of its brilliant society. The village streets, however, are gratefully shaded by fine trees, and a little respite from the gay whirl may be got on the walks and lawns of the pretty rural cemetery close by. The springs from which the fame of Saratoga is derived, however much_ fashion may have since nursed it, are all - in or very near the village. There are many different waters in present use, but the most sought after of all are those of the Congress Spring, of which Dr. Chilton gives the following analysis : One gallon of 261 cubic inches: chloride of sodium, 363.829 grains ; carbonate of soda, 7.200 ; carbonate of lime, 86.143 ; carbonate of magnesia, 78.621 ; carbonate of iroui J, Saratoga.] NEW YORK. [Glenn's Falls. .841 ; sulphate of soda, .651 ; iodins of sodium and bromide of potassium, 5.920; silica, .472 ; alumina, .321 : total, 543.998 grains. Carbonic acid, 284.65 ; atmos- pheric air, 5.41 ; making 290.06 inches of gaseous contents. This spring was dis- covered in 1*792, though it was long be- fore known to and esteemed by the Indians. After the Congress waters, which are bottled and sent all over the world, as everybody knows, the springs most in favor and use at Saratoga are the Em- pire, the Columbian, the High Rock the Iodine, the Pavilion, and Putnam's. The Excelsior, Star, and Saratoga A Springs are also becoming popular. The JEmpire Spring, the most northerly one in the village, has grown greatly in repute of late years. So far its landscape sur- roundings have received but poor atten- tion. The High Rock Spring, not far from the Empire, is much esteemed both for its medicinal virtues and for the curious character of the rock from which it issues, and after which it is named. It was first known by the discovery of Sir William Johnson, in I'ZfiY. This singular rock has been formed by the accumulated de- posits of the mineral substances (mag- ,nesia, lime, and iron) held in solution by jthe carbonic acid gas of the springs. ;The circumference of the rock, at the isurface of the ground, is 24 feet 4 inches, jits height 3|- feet, with an aperture of nearly one foot diameter. The ceuten- :nial anniversary of its discovery was celebrated August 23, 1866. The Selker Spring is newly opened. In the immedi- ate vicinity of the springs is pointed out the spot upon which the battles of Sara- toga and Stillwater were fought in lYYV. j The Alpha and the Omega of the daily Saratoga programme, is to drink and to dance — the one in the earliest possible morning, and the other at the latest ccn- .ceivable night. Among the out-door di- versions is a jaunt to Saratoga Lake, an attractive resort, six miles distant. The drive thither has recently been improved. Ihe lake is nine miles in length and very aearly three in width. The marshes around prevent access, except here and there. Moons and AbeWs Lake Houses are woll- cept houses, with conveniences for boat- ig, fishuig, etc. Snake Hill is the name iven to an eminence uj^on the eastern side of the lake. The Indian camp, Cir- cular Railway, and Archery Ground are immediately south of Congress Spring, and the "Victoria Walk." The pecu- liarity of " the Camp " is that the In- dians are almost all white, and of marked Milesian features. The village has two newspaper offices, several churches, and a resident population of 8,000, which is increased to nearly 30,000 during the months of July and August. A visit to Lake George, 28 miles dis- tant, affords a pleasing variation in t-ara- toga life. The route lies northvrard, via Gansevoort to Moreau Station, 17 miles, and thence by stages, 11 miles, over a plank road, to Caldwell, at the south end or head of the lake. GlenrCs Falls, on the upper Hudson, are passed on the way, nine miles from the lake. The wild and rugged landscape is in striking contrast with the general air of the country below — there, quiet pas- toral lands ; here, rugged rock and rush- ing cataract. This is a spot trebly inter- esting, from its natural, its poetical, and its historical character. The passage of the river is through a rude ravine, in a mad descent of 75 feet over a rocky pre- cipice of 900 feet in length. Within the roar of these rapids were laid some of the scenes in Cooper's story of the " Last of the Mohicans." They are gently as- sociated with our romantic memories of Uncas and Hawk's Eye, David Duncan Haywood and his sweet wards, Alice and Cora Monroe. When within four miles of the lake, we pass a dark glen, in which lie hid- den the storied waters of Bloody Pond, and close by is the historic old bowlder, remembered as William's Rock. Near this last-mentioned spot. Colonel Williams was killed in an engagement with the French and Indians, September 8, 1775. The slain in this unfortunate battle were cast into the waters near by, since called Bloody Pond. It is now quiet enough, under its surface of slime and dank lilies. The village built uf> round these falls was almost wholly destroyed by fire in May, 1860. The inhabitants number near 5,000, and are principally engaged in manufac- turing pursuits. Marble of fine quality is quarried here. Our road from the falls descends to the 47 Lake George.] NEW YORK. [Sabgath-day Point. lake shore, the gleammo; floods and the blue clifl's of Horicon ekising in the dis- tance. The first broad view of the beau- tiful lake, seen suddenly as our way brings us to the brink of the highlands, above whieh we have thus far travelled, is of surpassing beauty, only exceeded by the thonsand-and-one marvels of delight which we afterward enjoy in all the long traverse of its famous waters. 1j a l£ e Georg-e. — Hotels, the Fort WilUmn Henry Hotel and the Lahe HouHe, at the south end of the lake (Cald- well). About a mile southeast from the site of Fort William Henry are the ruins of Fort George, passed on the road from Glenn's Falls. These localities are seen from the piazza of the Lake House, which commands also a fine view of the French Mountain and Rattlesnake Hill, and of the islands and hills down the lake. The passage of Lake George, 36 miles, to the landing near the village of Ticon- deroga, and four miles from the venerable ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake Champlain, is made by the steamer Hia- wailia^ the trip down to the fort and back occupying the day very delight- fully. Leaving Caldwell after breakfast, we proceed on our voyage down the lake. After passing the tine residence of Mr. Cramer, the first spot of especial interest which we pass is Diamond Island, in front of Dunham Bay. Here, in 1777, was a military depot of Burgoyne's army, and the scene of a skirmish be tween the garrison and a detachment of Amei-ican troops. North of Diamond Isle lies Long Island, in front of Long Point, which extends into the lake from the east. Harris's Bay lies between the north side of this point and the mountains. In this bay Mont- calm moored his boats and landed in 1757. Doovi, or Twelve-Mile Island, is passed in the centre of the lake, some 12 miles north of Caldwell. Putnam's men took shelter here while he went to ap- prise General Webb of the movements of the enemy, at the mouth of the North- west Bay. This bay lies in one of the most beautiful parts of Lake George, just beyond Bolton Landing, where there is an inviting place to sojourn, called the " Mohican House." The best fishing- grounds of Lake George are in that part 48 of the waterr which we have ali-eady passed, in the vicinity of Bolton Land- ing, Shelving Rock, and thence to Cald- well, though fine trout and bass are freely caught from one end of the lake to the other. The bay extends up on the west of the Tongue Mountain some five miles. On the east side of the bay, the Tongue Mountain comes in literally like a tongue of the lake, into the centre of which it seems to protrude, with the bay on one side and the main passage of the waters on the other. On the right or east shore, in the neighborhood, and just as we reach the Tongue and enter the "Narrows," is the bold semicircular palisades called Shelving Hock. Passing this picturesque feature of the landscape, and, afterward, the point of the Tongue Mountain, we enter the Naerovts at the base of the boldest and loftiest shores of Horicon. The chief peak of the hills here is that of Black Mountain, with an altitude of 2,'200 feet. The islands, so called, of this lovely lake number more than 300. Sahhath-Day Point. — Emerging from the Narrows, on the north, we approach a long projecting strip of fertile land, called Sabbath-Day Point — so named by General Abercrombie, from his having embarked his army on the spot on Sun- day morning, after a halt for the prece- ding night. The spot is remembered also as the scene of a fight, in 1756, between the colonists and a party of French and Indians. The former, sorely pressed, and unable to escape across the lake, made a bold defence and defeated the enemy, killing very many of their men. In 1776 Sabbath-Day Point was again the scene of a battle between some American militia and a party of Indians and Tories, when the latter were repulsed, and some 40 of their number were killed and wounded. This part of Horicon is even more charm- ing in its pictures, both np and down the lake, than it is in its numerous historical reminiscences. On a calm sunny day the romantic passage of the Narrows, as seen to the southward, is wonderfully fine; while, in the opposite direction, the broad bay, entered as the boat passes Sabbath- Day Point, and the summer landing and hotel at " Garfield's," soon to be ab ruptly closed on the north by the huge precipices of Anthony's Nose on the i, FOKT TiCONDEEOGA.] NEW YORK. [Whitehall. right and Roger's Slide on the left. This pass is not unlike that of the Highlands of the Hudson as approached from the south. JRoffer^s Slide is a rugged promontory, about 400 feet high, with a steep face of bare rock, down which the Indians, to their great bewilderment, supposed the Ibold ranger, Major Rogers, to have pass- led, when they .pursued him to the brink of the precipice. Two miles beyond is PHsone7-^s Island, where, during the French War, those taken captive by the English were con- fined ; and directly west is Lo7'd Hoive^s Point, where the English army, under Lord Howe, consisting of 16,000 men, anded previous to the attack on Ticon- deroga. We now approach the termina- tion of our excursion on this beautifnl lake, and in a mile reach the steamboat landing near the village of Ticonderoga, Whence stages run a distance of three miles, over a rough and romantic road, fo Fort Ticonderoga — following the wild bourse of the passage by wliich Horicon reaches the waters of Lake Champlain — a passage full of bold rapids and striking pascades. Fort Ticonderoga, of which the ruins inly are visible, was erected by the French in 1Y56, and called by them Carrillon." It was originally a place jf much strength ; its natural advantages ivere very great, being surrounded on three sides by water, and having half its fourth covered by a swamp, and the only point by which it could be approached, a breastwork. It was afterward, aowever, easily reduced, by an expedi- ent adopted by General Burgoyne— =-that bf placing a piece of artillery on the pin- aacle of Mount Defiance, on the south side of the Lake George outlet, and 750 -:eet above the lake, and entirely com- faanding the fort, from, which shot was hrown into the midst of the American ivorks. Fort Ticonderoga was one of the irst strongholds taken from the English n I'Z'TS, at the commencement of the Revolutionary War. Colonel Ethan Allen, f Vermont, at the head of the Green ilountain Boys, surprised the unsuspect- ag garrison, penetrated to the very bed- ido of the commandant, and waking him, lemanded the surrender of the fort. " In whose name, and to whom ?" ex- claimed the surprised officer. "In the name of the great Jehovah, and the Con- tinental Congress!" thundered the in- trepid Allen, and the fort was immediately surrendered. After exploring the picturesque ruins of the ancient fort, and dining at the hotel, which stands upon the margin of a beautiful lawn, sloping to the Champlain shore, the tourist may return to the landing on Lake George, and thence to Caldwell again, in time for tea ; or he may take the Champlain boat from Whitehall, en route for Canada. For the sake of preserving our con- tinuity of travel, a consideration in tourist and pleasure travel, we resume our pro- gramme at Moreau Station, on the Sarar toga and Whitehall Railway, to which point we have already followed it in our visit to Lake George. To Whitehall the country is exceed- ingly attractive, much of the way, in its quiet, sunny valley beauty, watered by pleasant streams, and environed in the distance by picturesque hills. The Cham- plain Canal is a continual object of inter- est by the way ; and there are also, as in all the long journey before us, every- where spots of deep historic charm, if we could tarry to read their stories — of the memorable incidents which they witness- ed, both in French and Indian and after- ward in the Revolutionary War. In the valley regions of the Hudson, which lie between Albany and Lake Champlain, are many scenes famous for the struggles between the colonists and Great Britain — the battle-grounds of Bemis Heights and Stillwater (villages of the upper Hudson), and of Saratoga, which ended in the defeat of Burgoyne and his army. Three miles north of Moreau Station we pass Fort Edward, the scene of the murder of Jane McCrea by the Indians ; and twelve miles further on Fort Anne, a pleasant village of Washington County, on the canal. Remains of the fortification from which the place is named, and which was erected during the French War of 1*756, are still to be seen. IVlaitelisall. Whitehall, 7*7 miles north of Albany, was a point of much consideration during the French and Indian War, and through 49 Lake Champlain.] NEW YORK. [Bprlington'. the Revolution. In former times it was called Skciiesborougb. It is at the south end or head of Lake Champlain, with- in a rude, rocky ravine, at the foot of Skene's Mountain. The Champlain Canal to Troy terminates here. Pawlet River and Wood Creek, which enter the lake here, furnish abundant water-power ; population, 4,500. There is nothing in the vicinage to delay the traveller. From Whitehall we can either continue our journey down Lake Champlain, 156 miles, to St. John, or proceed by railway through Vermont, via Castleton, Rutland, Bur- lington, etc., to Rouse's Point, and thence to Montreal. The boat or lake route is preferable, as affording greater variety and more attractive scenery. LAKE CEA3IPLAIK Lake Champlain, one of the most im- portant and attractive features of the northern tour, lies between New York and Vermont, in latitude between 43° 30' and 45° 6' north. It varies in breadth from half a mile to 10 miles, and in depth from 50 to 280 feet. Its principal tributaries are the Saranac, Au Sable, and Winooski, and its principal outlet the Sorel or Richelieu River, through which it dis- charges into the St. Lawrence, 50 miles below Montreal. The name is derived from that of Samuel de Champlain, who discovered it in 1609. Navigation open from May to November. One of the IT. S. mail steamers leaves Whitehall on the ar- rival of trains from Albany, etc. The nar- rowness of the lower part of Lake Cham- plain gives it much more the air of a river than a lake. For 20 miles the average breadth does not exceed half a mile ; and at one point it is not more than 40 rods across. However, it grows wide enough as we pass Ticonderoga, where passen- gers by the Lake George detour are picked up, and in the vicinity of Burlington there are too many broad miles between the shores for picturesque uses. Whether broad or narrow, the voyage, in large and admirable boats, over its mountain-envi- roned waters, is always a pleasure to be greatly enjoyed and happily remembered. On the cast rise the bare peaks of the Green Hills of Vermont, the bold Camel's 50 Hump leading all along the line ; and on the west are the still more varied sum- mits and ridges of the Adirondack Moun- tains in New York. Mount Independence lies in Vermont, opposite Ticonderoga, about a mile dis- tant. The remains of military works are still visible here. Mount Ilope^ an ele- vation about a mile north of Ticonderoga, was occupied by General Burgojme pre- vious to the recapture of Ticonderoga, which took place in 1'77Y, nearly two years after its surrender to the gallant Allen. St. Clair, the American eommaml- er, being forced to evacuate, it agdn fell into the possession of the British, and was held during the war. Not far above and upon the opposite shore, is the village of Crown Point, and just beyond the pic- turesque and well-preserved ruins of the fortifications of the same name. Opposite is Chimney Foi?ii, and just above, on the left, at the mouth of Bulwaggy Bay, is Fort Henry. Biirliiigtom. — Hotels, -4»xmca», the Lake Hovse. Burlington, Vermont, the largest and most beautiful town on the lake, or in- deed in the State, isxipon the eastern or Vermont shore, about midway between Whitehall and St. Johns, distant 80 miles from Whitehall. It was settled in 1*783, and contains nearly 10,000 inhabi- tants. Rising gradually to an elevation of several hundred feet from the water, the town presents an imposing aspect. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, ioxmdi- ed 1*791, and is a place of much com- mercial importance, connected by rail- way with all parts of the country. Across the lake is Port Kent, from which vicin- ity, whether on land or on water, the landscape in every direction is striking and beautiful. Mount Mansfield is ve?i.ii\\- ed by stage. (See chapter on Vermont.) A pleasant detour may be made from Burlington by the Vermont Central Rail- way to the White Mountains. The better plan, however, is to proceed up the lake to St. Johns, and thence by Waterloo and Lake Memphremagog, 63 miles. The re- markable Walled Banks of the Av. Sable are a mile or two west of Port Kent, on the way to the manufacturing village of Keeseville. (See Adirondacks.) The Au Sable House is an excellent sum- Ji Plattsburg.] NEW YOEK. [Route V. mer hotel. The Falls of the Azt Sable, [though but little known as yet, will one pay be esteemed among the chief natural wonders of the country. I?la,tt stmrg'. — Hotels, " i^bw- guet^s." Twenty-four miles above Bur- Iington, and on the opposite shore, is the )leasant village of Plattsburg, where the paranac River comes in from its lake-dot- ted home, at the edge of the great wilder- ness of northern New York, 30 miles westward. Plattsbui'g is connected with Montreal by the P. & M. Railway. Cum- berland Bay, into which the Saranac pnters, was the scene of the victory of McDonough and Macomb over the Brit- ish naval and land forces, under Com- rnodore Downie and Sir George Pro- jvost, familiarly known as the Battle of Lake Champlain. Here the Amer- ican commodore awaited the arrival of the British fleet, which passed Cum- berland Head about eight o'clock in the morning of September 11, 1814. The first gun from the fleet was tlie sig- bal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George Provost, with about 14,000 taen, furiously assaulted the defences of the town, whilst the battle raged be- tween the fleets, in full view of the ^rmies. General Macomb, with about 3,000 men, mostly undiscipliued, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of about two hours, obliged him M retire, with the loss of 2,500 men, and i large portion of his baggage and am- inunition. Twenty-five miles farther we reach Rouse's Point, on the west side of ihe lake. This is our last landing be- fore we enter Canada. It is the termi- lus of the Lake Champlain Railway to pgdensburg, 118 miles. Railways from ;he Eastern States through Vermont ;ome in here, and are prolonged by the Montreal and Champlain road to Mon- real. If the traveller toward Canada )refers to continue his journey otherwise han via Plattsburg, or Rouse's Point, le may go on by steamboat to the head )f navigation in these waters to St. Tohns, and thence by Lachine to Montreal. (See Canada, for the tour of the St. jawrence and Lake Ontario from Quebec ia Monti-eal to Niagara.) MOUTE r. NEW YORK TO ELMIBA, GENESEE, AND DUNKIRK. ( Via Neto York and Erie Railroad.) This great route claims especial admi- ration for the grandeur of the enterprise which conceived and executed it, for the vast contributions it has made to the facilities of travel, and for the multiplied and varied landscape beauties which it has made so readily and pleasantly ac- cessible. Its entire length, from New York to Dunkirk on Lake Erie, is 460 miles (including the Piermont and the Newburg branches, it is 49*7 miles), in which it traverses the southern portion of the Empire State in its entire extent from east to west, passing through count- less towns and villages, over many rivers, now through rugged mountain-passes, and anon amidst broad and fertile valleys and plains. In addition, it has many branches, connecting its stations with other routes in all directions, and open- ing up new stores of pictorial pleasure. The road was first commenced in 1836. The first portion (46 miles, from Piermont to Goshen) was put in opera- tion September 23, 1841, and on May 15, 1851, the entire line to Lake Erie was opened amid great rejoiciugs and fes- tivities, in which the President of the United States and other distinguished guests of the company assisted. Daily trains leave for the West on this route, from the foot of Duane Street, morning, noon, and night. Stations. — Boiling Spring, 9 miles; Passaic Bx-idge, 11 ; Huyler's, 12 ; Pater- son, 16; Ridgewood, 22; Hohokus, 23; Allendale, 25 ; Ramsey's, 2*7 ; Suffern's, 31 ; Ramapo,' 33 ; Sloatsburg, 35 ; South- fields, 41 ; Greenwood, 44 ; Turner^s, 47 ; Oxford, 52 ; Chester (Greycourt), 55 ; Goshen, 69 ; Hampton, 63 ; Middletown, 66 ; Otisville, 15 ; Fort Jervis, 88 ; Zack- awaxen, 110; Mast Hope, 116; Nar- r-owsburcf, 122 ; Cochecton, 130 ; Haw- kins, 142 ; Lordville, 153; Stockport, 159; Hancock, 163 (junction of Del- aware, Lackawanna, and Western R. R.) ; Deposit, 1'76 ; Susquehanna, 192; Great Bend, 200; Kirkwood, 206; Blngham- ton, 214 (junction of Syracuse and Bing- 51 Route V.] NEW YORK. [Route V, hamton R. R.) ; Hooper, 220 ; Owego, 236 ; Tioga, 242 ; Barton, 248 ; Waver- ley, 255; Chemung, 260; Wellsburg, 266; Elmira, 2^3 (function of Williams- port and Elmira R. R.) ; Big Flats, 283 ; Corning, 291 (iunction of Buffalo Divi- sion) ; Tainted "Post, 292 ; Addison, 301 ; Rathbonevdle, 806; Adrian, 322; Hor- nellsville, 331; Alfred, 340; Andover, 349; Genesee, 358; Philipsville 365; Belvidere, 369; Hinsdale, 389; Olean, 398; Great Valley, 411; Salamanca, 415 (junction of Atlantic and Great Western R. R.) ; Cattaraugus, 428 ; Day- ton, 437 ; Ferrysburg, 440 ; Forestville, 461 ; BimMrk, 460. The first 31 miles of the Erie route lie through the State of New Jersey, from Jersey City, opposite New York, to "Suffern's," and consists of parts of three diifereut railways, though used of late years for all the general passenger travel of the Erie road, and with its own broad track and cars. The original line of the road is from Suffern's eastward, 18 miles, to Piermont, and thence 24 miles down the Hudson River. This route is now employed only for freight and for local travel. It leads through a rude but not uninteresting country, with here and there a fine landscape or an agreeable village. Passing then through the New Jersey towns (see chapter on New Jer- sey), we begin our mention of places and scenes of interest on the Erie route at Suffern's Station, where the original Piei'- mont and the present Jersey City lines meet. The Ramapo Valley commences at this point, and in its wild mountain- passes we find the first scenes of especial remark in our journey. Fine hill farms surround us here, and on all our way through the region of the Ramapo for 18 miles, by Sloatsburg, Souflifields, Green- v'ood, and Turner^s, to Monroe. The chief attraction of the Ramapo Gap is the Torn Mountain, seen on the right, near the entrance of the valley, and about the Ramapo Station. This is historical ground, sacred with memories of the movements of the Revolutionary army, when it was driven back into New Jersey from the Hudson. Washington often as- cended to the summit of the Torn Moun- tain, to overlook the movements of the British. On one such occasion, anecdote 52 says, that he lost his watch in a crevice of a rock, of which credulity afterward heard the ticking in the percolations of unseen waters. Very near the railway at Sufl'ern's the debris of old intrench- ments are still visible ; and marks of the camp-fires of our French allies of the period may be traced in the woods op- posite. Near by is an old farm-house, once occupied by the commander-in-chief. The Ramapo is a great iron ore and iron manufacturing region ; and it was here that the chain which was stretched across the Hudson to check the advance of the English ships, was forged, at the spot once called the Augusta Iron Works, and now a poetical ruin by a charming cascade with overhanging bluff, seen close by the road, on the right, after passing Sloatsburg. The Ramapo Brook winds attractively through the valley, and beautiful lakelets are found upon the hill- tops. There are two such elevated ponds near Sloatsburg. At Sloatsburg passen- gers for the summer resort of Greenwood Lake, 12 miles distant, take stage. (See Greenwood Lake). From Monroe on- ward through Oxford, Chester, Goshen, Hampton, Middletown, HoweWs, and Otis- ville, to JPort Jervis (or Delaware), we are in the great dairy region of Orange County, New York, which sends a train of cars laden with milk daily to the New York market. A very channing view is seen south from the station at Oxford, led by the cone of the Sugar Loaf, the chief hill feature of the vicinage. At Ches- ter, now called Greycourt, the branch road from Newburg, on the Hudson River, to Warwick, 29 miles, intersects the main line. From this point, as well as from Sloatsburg, passengers for Green- wood Lake (eight miles) take stage. Middletown is a flourishing town in Orange County. It has an academy and extensive iron-works. At Howell's, 70 miles from New York, the country gives promise of the picturesque displays to be seen all through the way onward to Port Jervis. Approaching Otisville, the eye is atti-acted by the bold flanks of the Shawangunk Mountain, the passage of which great barrier (once deemed almost insurmountable) is a miracle of engineer- ing skill. A mile beyond Otisville, after traversing an ascending grade of 40 feet 1 Port Jervis.] NEW YORK. [Shohola. to the mile, the road runs through a rock cutting 50 feet deep and 2,500 feet long. This passed, the summit of the ascent is reached, and thence we go down the moun- tain side many sloping miles to the val- ley beneath. The scenery along the mountain slope is grand and picturesque, land the effect is not lessened by the bold features of the landscape all around — the rugged front of the Shawanguuk, step- ping, like a colossal ghost, into the scene for one instant, and the eye anon resting upon a vast reach of untamed wilderness. In the descent of the mountain the em- bankment is securely supported by a Wall 30 feet in height and 1,000 feet long. Onward the way increases in interest, Initil it opens upon a glimpse, away over the valley of the mountain spur, called the Cuddleback ; and, at its base, the tlittering water seen now for the first fime, of the Delaware and Hudson Canal, whose dehouche we have looked upon kt Kingston, in our voyage up the Hud- son River. Eight miles beyond Otis%'ille ve are imprisoned in a deep cutting for early a mile, which prepares us for the prilliant surprise which awaits us. The lark passage made, and yet another bold lash through rocky cliffs, and there lies juddenly spread before us, upon our ight, the rich and lovely valley and vaters of the Neversink. Beyond sweeps i chain of blue hills, and at their feet, erraced high, gleam the roofs and spires .tf the village of Port Jervis ; while on- [*^ard, to the south, our eye first beholds he floods of the Delaware, which is to )e so great a source of delight in our ourney hence, for nearly 90 long miles, o Deposit. Port Jervis, formerly Delaware, as the tation was called, is the terminus of he eastern division, one of four great ub-sections into which the road is ivided. It is the point at which the ourist who can spend several days in iewiug the route, should make his first ight's halt. The vicinage is replete ath pictorial delights, and with ways nd means for rural sports and pleasures, harms of climate and of scenery, with ae additional considerations of a jaretty illage and a most excellent hotel (the felaware House), have made Port Jervis place of great and continuous summer resort and tarry. The Falls of the Saw- kill, sis miles distant, are reached by stage. This stream, after flowing slug- gishly for some miles through level table land, is here precipitated over two per- pendicular ledges of slate-rock — the first of about 20 feet, and the second about 60 feet— into a wild gorge. The brook still continues, dashing and foaming on for a quarter of a mile, over smaller precipices, and through chasms scarcely wide enough for ihe visitor to pass. The beetling cliffs that form the sides of the gorge are surmounted and shaded by cedars and hemlocks, that lend a pecu- liarly so^nbre air to the scenery. The sojourner here should not omit a tramp to the top of Point Peter, which overlooks the village. At Port Jervis commences the second division of the road which carries us on- ward, 104 miles farther, to Susquehanna. The canal keeps us company, nearer or more remote, for some miles, and by and by we cross the Delaware on a fine bridge of 800 feet, built at a cost of $'75,000. The river, from this point, is seen, both above and below, to great advantage. Here we leave Orange County and New York for a little incursion into the Key- stone State, for which privilege the rail- way company pays Pennsylvania $10,000 per year. The canal, and its pictures and incidents, are still the most agreeable features of our way, though at Point Eddy we open into one of the wide basins so striking in the scenery of the Del- aware. Near Shohola, 106 miles from New York, we are among some of the greatest engineering successes of the Erie route, and some of its chief pictorial charms. Here the road lies on the mountain side, several feet above the river, along a mighty gallery, supported by grand nat- ural abutments of jagged rock. It is a pleasant scene to v.'atch the flight of the train upon the crest of this rocky and se- cure ijrecipice; and theimpressiveness of the sight is deepened by its contrast with the peaceful repose of the smiling meadow slopes on the opposite side of the river below. Upon three miles along this Shohola section of the road no less than $300,000 were expended. At Lachawaxen there is a charming 53 Hancock.] NEW YORK. [BiNGHAMTON. picture of the village, and of the Dela- ware bridged by the railway and by the grand aqueduct for the passage of the canal, supported by an iron-wire suspen- sion bridge. We pass on now by Mast Hope to Narrowsburg. Narrovisburg (122 miles from New York, and 33Y from Dunkirk) has a good hotel. Beyond Narrowsburg, for some miles, the traveller may turn to his news- paper or book for occupation awhile, so lit- tle of hiterest does the scene without pre- sent, with the exception now and then of a pleasant bit of pastoral region. Some compensation may be found in recalling the stirring incidents of Cooper's novel of " The Last of the Mohicans," of which this ground was the theatre. At Callicoon, a brook full of wild and beautiful passages and of bright trout, en- ters the Delaware. Hancock is one of the most important places of this division of our route, and in every way a pleasant spot for sojourn. At DejjOHit, 13 miles beyond Hancock, we bid good-by to the Delaware, which we have followed so long ; refresh ourselves at the excellent cafe, and prepare for the ascent of a heavy grade over the high mountain ridge v/hich separates it from the lovely waters of the Susquehanna. As the train descends into the valley there seems no promise of the wonders which are awaiting us, but they come suddenly, and before we are aware we are traversing the famou-s Cascade Bridge, a solitary arch, 250 feet wide, sprung over a dark ravine of 184 feet in depth. No adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty of the scene can be had from the cars ; indeed, in the rapid transit it is often passed before the traveller is aware of its approach. It should be viewed leisurely from the bottom of the deep glen, and from all sides, to be realized aright. To see it thus, a half day's halt should be made at the Great Bend station. The Cascade Bridge crossed, the view opens almost immediately at the right — deep down upon the winding Susquehan- na, reaching afar off amid a valley and hill picture of delicious quality, a fitting pre- lude to the sweet river scenes we are henceforth to delight in. This first grate- ful glimpse of the brave Susquehanna is justly esteemed as one of the finest points 54 on the varied scenery of the Erie Eail- road route. It may be looked at more leisurely and more lovingly by him who tarries to explore the Cascade Bridge hard by, and the valley of the Starrucca, with its grand viaduct, which we are now rapidly approaching. The Slarrncca Via- duct is one of the greatest engineering achievements of the entire route. It is 1,200 feet in length, and 110 feet high, and has 18 grand arches, each 50 feet span. The cost was $320,000. From the vicinity of Susquehanna, the next station, the viaduct itself makes a most effective feature in the valley views. A little beyond the viaduct, and just before we reach the Susquehanna station, we cross a fine trestle bridge, 450 feet long, over the Cannewacta Creek, at Lanes- borough. We are now fairly upon the Susquehanna, not in the- distance, but near its very marge, and, anon, we reach the end of the second grand division of our route, and enter the depot of Susque- hanna. Susquehanna, 193 miles from New York, is an important railroad station and manufacturing point. Just beyond the Susquehanna depot we cross to the right bank of the river, and, after two more miles' ride, yet amidst mountain ridges, we reach Great Bend, 200 miles from New York, and 259 from Dunkirk. The village of this name lies close by, at the base of a bold, cone-shaped hill. The Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Eail- road, joins the Erie road at this point. Leaving Great Bend, we enter upon the more cultivated landscape of which we lately spoke, and approach villages and towns of great extent and elegance. Near Kirkwood, the next station, six miles from Great Bend, there stands an old wooden tenement, which may attract the traveller's notice as the birthplace of the Mormon prophet, Joe Smith. lIiiag-liaim.toii . — Hotels, American House, Lewis House. Binghamton, 215 miles from New York, is, with its population of ten or eleven thousand people, one of the most important places on the Erie route, and indeed in Southern New York. It is a beautiful town, situated upon a wide plain, in an angle made by the meeting of the Susquehanna and the Chenango Rivers. Binghamton was settled in 1 YS*? 0V7EG0.] NEW YORK. [Salamanca. by Mr. Bingham, an English gentleman, whose daughters married the brothers Henry and Alexander Baring, the famous London bankers. One of those gentle- men was afterward, created Lord Ash- burton. It was incorporated in 1818. I The Chenango Canal, extending along the Chenango River, connects Binghamton with Utica, 95 miles distant ; and it is also the southern terminus of the Syra- cuse and Binghamton Railroad, 80 miles long. ® TT e g o . — Hotels, the Ah-wa-ga House. Owego (23'7 miles), is another large and handsome town, almost rivalling Bing- hamton in beauty and importance. It was settled in 1*791, and incorporated in 1827. Owego is surrounded by a land- scape not of bold but of very beautful fea- tures. Many noble panoramas are to be seen from the hill-tops around, overlook- ing the village and the great valley. The Owego Creek, which enters the Susque- hanna here, is a charming stream. Just before its meeting with the greater waters, it passes through the meadow and at the base of the hill-slopes of " Glenmary," once the home of N. P. Willis, and now one of the Meccas of the vicinage, to which all visitors are won by the charms and spells the fancy of the poet has cast about it. It was here that Mr. Willis wrote his famous " Letters from under a Bridge." Population, 6,000. The Cayuga division of the Delaware^ Lackawanna, and Western Railroad, di- verges here, some 30 miles, to Ithaca, on Cayuga Lake. SliiKura.. — Hotels, Brainard House. Passing the half dozen intermediate stations, we reach Elmira, 2*73 miles from New York, and 36 from Owego. This beautiful town is a peer of Binghamton and Owego, with the same charming val- ley nest and the same environing hill- ridges. It was settled in 1*788, and has a to^vn population of 14,000. The New- ton Creek and the Chemung River, near the junction of whose waters Elmira is built, lend a picturesque beauty to the vi- cinage. The JElmira, Canandaigua, and Niagara Falls Railway diverges here, and connects the town v/ith the Canada lines. This road affords one of the pleasantest summer routes from Now York to the falls of Niagara, The Williamsport and Elmira road connects with lines leading to Philadelphia. The Chemung Canal also connects Elmira with Seneca iMke, 20 miles distant Five miles beyond Elmira our route lies over the Chemung River, CoB'Baimg (290 miles), is an impor- tant point on the Chemung River. The feeder of the Chemung Canal extends hither from Elmira. It is the depot of the Corning and Blosshnrg Hatlroad, which connects it with the coal beds of Pennsylvania. Incorporated, 1848. Pres- ent population, ^jSOO. At Corning ter- minates also the Buffalo branch road to Rochester (90 miles) and Buffalo, via Avon Springs, 142 miles. MosL-aaellsville (332 miles). Here ,we enter upon the fourth and last division of the Erie route; it is yet 128 miles to Dunkirk. The country through the rest of our way is comparatively new, and no important towns have yet grown up with- in it. Pictorially, this division is the least attractive of the whole route, though beautiful scenes occur at intervals all along. Beyond Hornellsville we enter the valley of the Canisteo River. Almond and Alfred lie upon the banks of this charming stream. Reaching Tip Top Summit (the highest grade of the Erie road, being 1,700 feet above tide-water), we commence the de- scent into the valley of tim Genesee. The country has but few marks of human habitation to cheer its lonely and wild aspect, and lor many miles onward our way continues through a desolate forest tract, alternated only by the stations and little villages of the road. Beyond Ctiha Summit there are many brooks and glens of rugged beauty. Passing Olean, on the Alleghany River, we come into the lands of the Indian Reservation, where we fol- low the wild banks of the Alleghany, be- tween lofty hills as wild and desolate as itself. galaisiamca, 415 miles from New York, is important as the junction of the Erie and Atlantic and Great Western Railways, which unitedly form the great thoroughfare of travel between New York and Cincinnati and the Great West. At Cattaraugus, 428 miles from New York, and 31 from Dunkirk, we traverse a deep valley, where the eye is relieved for a lit- 65 Dunkirk.] NEW YORK. [Utica. tie while with scenes of gentler aspect than the unbroken forest we have long traverseJ, and ai-e to traverse still. Three miles beyond Perryshurg we catch glimpses of the great Erie waters, towai'd which we are now rapidly speeding. Yet a few miles and we are out of the dreary woods, crossing again through the more habitable lands which he upon the lakes. SJiiMlaii'Ii. — Hotels, the Eastern. Reaching Dunkirk, on I,ake Erie, the western terminus of the Erie road, the tourist may pursue his journey westward by any one of the numerous routes by land or by water. We have reached our destination within the State (New York), and refer our travelling friends to the Index for further information as to their route. MOUTE VI. TO BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. {Via New York Central Bailicay and Branches.) Stations. — Albany; Schenectady, 17 miles; Hoffman's, 26; Tribes Hill, 39; Fonda, 44; Palatine Bridge, 55; St. Johnsville, 64; Little Falls, 74; Herki- mer, 81 (see EicHPiELD Springs); TJtica, 95; Rome, 110; Oneida, 122; Canastola, 128 ; Chittenango, 134 ; Syracuse, 148 (branch — lower line — to Rochester via Auburn and Canandaigua) ; Warner's, 157; Port Byron, 173; Savannah, 180; Lyons, 193 ; Newark, 199 ; Palm.yra, 206 ; Fairport, 219; Rochester, 229 (branch to Niagara Falls, via Lockport) ; Bergen, 246 ; IBatavia, 261 ; Corfu, 273 ; Buffalo, 298 (branch to Niagara Falls, via Tona- wanda). (For route to Albany, see Routes n. and in.) This great route traverses from east to west the entire length of the Empire State. It has two termini at the eastern end, one at Albany and the other at Troy, which meet, after 17 miles, at Sche- nectady. It then continues in one line to Syracuse, 148 miles fr^m Albany, when it is again a double route for the remain- der of the way ; the lower line, via Auburn and Canandaigua, being looped uji to the other at Rochester, about midway be- tween Syracuse and Buffalo. The upper 56 route is the more direct, and the one which we shall now follow. The great Erie Canal traverses the State of New York from Albany to Buffalo, nearly on the same line with the Central Railroad. Sclaeiaectatly. — Hotels, Carlcy (late Eagle), GiverrCs Hotel. At Schenec- tady the railways from Albany and Troy meet, and the Saratoga route diverges. Schenectady is upon the right bank of the Mohawk River. It is one of the oldest towns in the State, and is distinguished as the seat of Union College, founded in 1795. The council-grounds of the Mo- hawks once formed the site of the present town. A trading-post was estabhshed by the Dutch as early as 1620. In the winter of 1690 a party of 200 Frenchmen and Canadians,, and 50 Indians, fell at midnight upon Schenectady, killed and made captive its people, and burned the village to ashes. 69 persons were then massacred, and 27 were made prisoners. The church and 63 houses were destroyed. It was afterward taken in the French war of 1748, when about 70 people were put to death. Population upward of 10,000. Leaving Schenectady the road crosses the Mohawk River and the Erie Canal, upon a bi'idge nearly 1,000 feet in length. ff*alatiiie Bridge (55 miles) ; passengers for Sharon Springs take stage 10 miles. (See Sharon Springs.) At ff'ori l?lsiiii (68 miles), passen- gers for Otsego Lake, Cooperstown, and Cherry Valley, proceed by stage. tfittie i^alls is remarkable for a bold passage of the Mohawk River and Erie Canal through a wild and most pictu- resque defile. The scenery, embracing the river, rapids, and cascades, the locks and windings of the canal, the bridges, and the glimpses far away of the valley of the Mohawk, are especially beautiful. Utica. — Hotels, Baggs's, at the de- pot, and the National. Utica is a large, flourishing, . and handsome town on the south side of the Mohawk River. The Erie Canal and the Central Railway pass through the centre of the city. It con- tains several handsome buildings, among v,'hich are the City Hall and State Ltmatic Asylum. It is built upon the site of old Fort Schuyler, and has now a population of 25,000. Geneva.], NEW YORK. [Koch ESTER. SyracM.se. — Hotels, the Globe, the Syracuse, the Onondaga. At Syra- cuse, 148 miles from Albany, the Central road connects by rail with Binghamton on the Erie route, and with Oswego, 35 miles northward. It is pleasantly situ- ated on the south end of Onondaga Lake. The most extensive salt manufactories in the United States are found here. It is famous, too, as the meeting- place of State, political, and other conventions. Incor- porated as a village in 1825, and as a city in 1848. It has a population of 35,000. Aia"biirHi, the capital of Cayuga County, is delightfully situated near Owasco Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 12 miles in length, which liuds its outlet through the town. It is well laid out, and the streets are pleasantly shaded. The State Prison is a massive stone structure. The Theological Seminary and Acadeiny are prominent institutions. The former, founded in 1821, has a fine library. Gen- esee Street is the principal busmess thor- oughfare. Auburn has long been the resi- dence of Mr. Seward, present Secretary of State. Skeneateles, six miles distant, is a man- ufacturing point of some importance. It lies at the foot of Skeneateles Lake, a charming water, 16 miles long,with pic- turesque shores, and good supplies of trout and other fish. A steamboat plies on the lake during the summer. Cayuga is a pleasant village upon the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake. Ithaca is 38 miles off, at the other extremity of I the lake. These fine waters are trav- ersed daily by steamboat, connecting Cayuga wdth Ithaca. Railway to Owego, on the New York and Erie route. Seneca Falls, 42 miles west of Syra- cuse, is pleasantly situated at the outlet of Seneca Lake, which is one of the largest and most beautiful of the lakes of Western New York. It is 40 miles long, and from two to four wide. It is very deep, and never freezes over. Steamboats run between Jefferson, at the south end of the lake, and Geneva, at the noi'th end. CJeneva. is a floui-ishing city of nearly 7,000 people. It is on the Central Railway, midway between Syracuse and Rochester. It is the seat of the Ilobart Free College (founded under the direction of the Episcopalians in 1823) ; also of the Medical Institute of Geneva College, and the Geneva Union School. Canandalgua is a beautiful town, at the north end of Canandaigua Lake, 29 miles east of Rochester. The railroad from Elmira, on the New York and Erie route to Niagara Falls, passes through Canandaigua. Incorporated in 1815, it now contains 6,000 people. The lake is about 15 miles in length, and is well stocked with fish. ISocliester. Hotels : the Osburn (new), the Brackett, and the Congress Hotels, are among the many excellent houses here. Rochester is the largest and most im portant city upon our present route be- tween Albany and Buffalo, its population being 65,000. It was settled in 1812, ajid named after Col. Nathaniel Roches- ter. It is the seat of the Rochester Uni- versity, founded by the Baptists in 1850. There is also here a Baptist Theological Seminary, founded in 1850. The Roches- ter Aihenwum has a library of 14,000 volumes. Among its picturesque attrac- tio)is, are the Falls of Genesee, upon both sides of which river the city is built. The Moimtllope Cemetery, in the vicinity, IS also a spot of much natural beauty. St. Mary^s Hosjyital is an imi^osing edifice of cut stone, with accommodation for IjOOO patients. The cut-stone aqueduct by which the Erie Canal is carried across the Genesee River is worthy of notice. Rochester is connected by railway with the New York and Erie route at Cor- ning, and with Niagara Falls direct, by the Rochester, Lockport, and Niagara Falls division of the New York Central road (see p. 58), and by steamboats, v/ith all ports on Lake Ontario. The Genesee Falls are seen to the best advantage from the east side of the stream. The railroad cars pass about 100 rods south of the most southerly fall on the Genesee River, so that passengers in crossing lose the view. To see the scene properly, the visitor will cross the bridge over the Genesee above the mill, and place himself iiiimediately in front of the fall. This railway bridge is 800 feet long and 234 feet high. Some distance be- yond, a stairway conducts to the bottom of the ravine, whence you may pass in a 57 BOFFALO.] NEW YORK. [Niagara Falls. boat, or pick your way aloug beneath the spray of the tumbling floods. The walls Df this gorge are of slate-stoue ; they rise bo a height of more than 300 feet, and in the many and sudden turnings of the way, offer a grateful suecession of noble pictures. These falls have three perpen- dicular pitches and two rapids ; the first 2;reat cataract is 80 rods below the aque- duct, the stream plunging pei'pendicular- ly 96 feet The ledge here recedes up the river from the centre to the sides, breaking the water into three distinct sheets. From 2hble Hock, in the centre 3f these falls, Sam Patch made his last md fatal leap. The river below the first cataract is broad and deep, with occa- sional rapids to the second fall, where it igain descends perpendicularly 20 feet, rhence the river pursues its course, which s noisy, swift, and rapid, to the third md last fall, over which it pours its flood iown a perpendicular descent of 105 feet. Below this fall are numerous rap- ids, which continue to Carthage, the end Df navigation on the Genesee River from Lake Ontario. The Post-Office at the kfillage of Genesee Falls is called Portage- ville. Portage Station is on the Buffalo aranch of the New York and Erie Rail- road, 30 miles from Hornellsville. SlMlIislo. — Hotels, the Ilansion, ^{If's, and the Atnerican. This important commercial and man- .ifacturiug city has grown so great and so fast, that although it was laid out as late IS 1801, and in 1813 had only 200 biouses, its population now numbers 145,- )00. It was incorporated in 1832, and :n 1852 the charter was amended so as to include Black Rock. The city has a (vater-front of five miles in extent, and is divided into 13 wards. The city is gen- 3rally well built, its streets being broad md straight, and intersecting each other it right angles. Main, Delaware, and Ni- igara Streets, are the principal thorough- Fares. The public squares are five in aumber, and are respectively named Niagara, Lafayette Place, Washington, Franklin, Delaware, and Terrace Parks. A.mong the principal public buildings are ihe City Hall, Penitentiary, U. S. Cus- '.om-House and Post-Office, Coicrt-Hoiise, Tail, State Arsenal, and Market-Houses. A.mong the prominent literary, education- 58 al, and charitable institutions of Buffalo, are the Buffalo Univei-sity, and Medical School, chartered in 1846 ; the Young Mert^s Association, with a library of 13,000 volumes ; the Buffalo Female Academy, on Delaware Street ; the Buffalo and St. Vincent's Orphan Asylum; the City and Marine Hosjntals, the latter founded in 1833; the Hospital of the Sisters of Charity, etc. The city has extensive manufactures of iron, being second only to Pittsburg in that impor- tant branch of industry. The commerce of Buffalo with the West, by means of the great lakes, is large and growing. She has 30 grain ware- houses, with a capacity of 6,000,000 bushels of grain. Buffalo has immediate connection with Niagara Falls (22 miles), five times daily, via Black Rock and Tonawanda ; but as the route from Rochester, via Lockport, is 14 miles shorter, and is generally pre- ferred by travellers from New York and Albany, we will glance at that before visiting the Falls. ROCHESTER, LOCKPORT, AND NIAGARA FALLS Dimsimi of N. T. Central R, R. Stations. — Eochester ; Spencerport, 10; Brockport, 17; Albion, 31; Medina, 40 ; Middleport, 45 ; Lockport, 56 ; Lock- port Junction, 59 ; Suspension Bridge, '75 ; Niagara Falls, VV. Brockjwrt, Monroe County, on the Erie Canal, IV miles west of Rochester, is famous for its pump manufactures. Albion, the seat of justice of Orleans County, is a place of considerable trade, with a population of 2,000. Lockjwrt, 21 miles east of Niagara Falls, is a thriving town in the midst of a rich agricultural region. It is famous for its limestone quarries and its manu- facture of flour. Its 23opulation is 15,00Q, and increasing. The roar of the great cataract can be heard here in favorable conditions of the atmosphere. Miag-ai-a Falls. — Hotels, upon the American side of the river, the Cat- aract House and the International Hotel are most excellent homes for the tourist. NiAGAKA Falls.] NEW YORK. [Niagara Falls. On the Canada side, the Clifton is an ex- cellent house. Routes: From New York, via Hud- son River or Hudson River Railroad, to Albany, 144 miles ; from Albany to Buffalo, via N. Y. Central R. R., 298 miles ; from Buffalo, by Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewjston R. R., 22 miles. Total, 464 miles. Same to Rochester, 37B miles ; and tlience by Rochester, Lockport, and Niagara R. R., 7*7 miles. Total, 450 miles. From New York, via New York and Erie E. R., to Bufflilo, 422 miles ; Buffalo (as above), by Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lew- iston R. R. (to Niagara), 22 miles. Total, 444 miles. From New York, by New York and Erie R. R. to Elmira, 274 miles ; from Elmira to Niagara, by Elmira, Oan- andaigua, and Niagara Falls R. R., 166 miles. Total, 440 miles. From New York to Albany, by Hudson River, 144 miles ; thence to Troy, six miles. Rail- way from Troy to Whitehall, 65 miles ; from Whitehall by steamer on Lake Champlain, to St. Johns, 150 miles ; St. Johns to La Prairie Railroad, 15 miles ; La Prairie, by steamboat on the St. Law- rence to Montreal, nine miles ; from Montreal (Grand Trunk Railroad and other lines to Niagara), railroad and steam- boat, 436 miles. Total, 727 miles. The falls are situated on the river of the same name, a strait connecting the floods of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and di- viding a portion of the State of New York on the west from the Province of Canada. The cataracts thus lie within the terri- tory both of Great Britain and the United States. They are some 20 miles below the entrance of the river, at the northeast extremity of Lake Erie, and about 14 miles above its junction with Lake Ontario. The River Niagara (signifying in the Iroquois language " Thunder of Waters") takes its rise in the western extremity of Lake Erie, and after flowing 33| miles enters Lake Ontario, which is 334 feet below Lake Erie. The waters for which the Niagara is the outlet, cover an area of 150,000 square miles — ^floods so grand and inexhaustible as to be utterly uncon- scious of the loss of the hundred mil- lions of tons which they pour every hour, through succeeding centuries, over these stupendous precipices. The Approach.— ThQ best approach to the Falls is that most usually taken, viz., by the American shore. " The descent of about 200 feet, by the staircase, brings the traveller directly under the shoulder and edge of the American Fall, the most imposing scene, for a single object, that he probably has ever witnessed. The long column of sparkluig water seems, as he stands near it, to descend to an immeas- urable depth, and the bright sea-green curve above has the appearance of being set into the sky. The tremendous power of the Fall, as well as the height, realizes "his utmost expectations. He descends to the water's edge and embarks in a ferry- boat, which tosses like an egg-shell on the heaving and convulsed water, and in a minute or two he finds himself in the face of the vast line of the Falls, and sees with surprise that he has expended his fullest admiration and astonishment upon a mere thread of Niagara — the thousandth part of its wondrous volume and grandeur. From the point where he crosses to Table Rock, the line of the Falls measures three- quarters of a mile in length ; and it is this immense extent which, more than any other feature, takes the traveller by sur- prise. The current at the ferry sets very strongly down, and the athletic men who are employed here keep the boat up against it with difiiculty. Arrived near the opposite landing, however, there is a slight counter-cuiTcnt, and the large rocks near the shore serve as a breakwater, be- hind which the boat runs smoothly to her moorings." The passage is now safely and pleasantly made \)j the steamer "Maid of the. Mist." It is from the American side of the river that access is had to the hundred points of interest and surprise in the famous Goat Island vicinage, with its con- necting bridges, its views of the Rapids, of the Cave of the Winds, of the scene of Sam Patch's great leap, and of its bold overtopping tower; and in other neigh- borhoods of the Whirlpool, of tlie Chasm Tower, and the Devil's Hole. A totally different and not less wonder- ful gallery of natural master-pieces is opened upon the Canada shore — the ter- rible marvels of the Table Rock above, and of Termination Rock behind the mighty Horse-Shoe Fall ; the noble pano- 59 s^iAGAKA Falls.] NEW YORK. [Niagara Falls. ama from the piazzas of the Clifton louse, the Burning Spring, the historical •illage of Chippewa, and the battle-field )f Lundj's Lane, Bender's Cave, etc. Goat Idand. (American side. ) — Leav- ng the Cataract House, take the first left- land street, two minutes' walk to the )ridge, which leads to the toll-gate on 3ath Island. This bridge is itself an ob- ject of wonder, in its apparently rash md dangerous position. It is, however, jerfectlv safe, and is crossed hourly by leavy-laden carriages. The Rapids, as seen on the way to [ioat Island, are impressive The river lescends 51 feet in a distance of three- luarters of a mile by this inextrica- Aq turmoil of waters. It is one of the nost striking features of the Niagara scenery. Standing on the bridge, and razing thence up the angry torrent, the eaping crests seem like " a battle-charge )f tempestuous waves animated and in- 'uriated against the sky. Nearer the )lunge of the Fall, the Kapids become ^lill more agitated, and it is impossible br the spectator to rid himself of the dea that they are conscious of the abyss which they are hurrying, and struggle jack in the very extremity of horror, rhis propensity to invest Niagara with a ;oul and human feelings is a common ef- ect upon the minds of visitors, in every ^art of its wonderful phenomena. The orture of the Rapids, the clinging curves vith which they embrace the small rocky slands that live amid the surge ; the sud- len calmness at the brow of the cataract, md the infernal writhe and whiteness vith which they reappear, powerless, Tom the depths of the abyss — aU seem, the excited imagination of the gazer, ike the natural effects of impending ruin —desperate resolution and fearful agony m the minds and frames of mortals." Chapin\ Island is upon the right of the jridge, within a short distance of the imcriean Fall. It is named in memory )f a workman whose life was imperilled )y falUng into the stream, as be was aboring upon the bridge. Mr. Robinson vent gall;mtly and successfully to his re- ief in a skiff. The Toll Gate is upon Bath Island, vhere baths, warm and otherwise, are ac- ;essible at all times to visitors. A fee 60 of 25 cents paid here, gives you the free- dom of Goat Island, during all your stay, be it for the year or less. Near this point are Ship and Big Islands. There is here a very extensive paper-mill. Crossing another small bridge, wc stand upon Iris Island. (See Prospect Tower.) The only place of habitation here is a house at which the traveller can supply himself with refreshments of aU inviting kinds, and store his trimks with every variety of samples of Indian ingenuity and labor. The place is called the Indian Emporium. Three routes over the island diverge at this point. The principal path followed by most visitors is that to the right, which keeps the best of the sights, as Wisdom always does, until the last ; affording less striking views of the Falls than do the other routes at first, but far surpassing them both in its graiMA finale. This way conducts to the foot of the island, while the left-hand path seeks the head, and the middle winds across. Taking the right-hand path, then, fi-om the Toll Gate, we come, first, to the centre Fall, called Uie Cave of the Winds (see TERMiirATiox Rock), mid-distant nearly between the American and the Horse-Shoe FaUs. This wonderful scene is best and most securely enjoyed from the spacious flat rock beneath. The cave is 100 feet high, and of the same extent in width. You can pass safely into the recess behind the water, to a platform beyond. Magical rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; sometimes bows of entire circles, and two or three at once, are seen. At the foot of Goat Island the Three Profiles form an object of curious interest. These profiles, seemingly some two feet long, are to be seen, one directly above the other, as you look across the first sheet of water, directly under the lowest point of rock. They are some- times called the Tlirce Sisters. Ltma Island i& reached by a foot bridge, from the right of Goat Island. It has an area of some three-quarters of an acre. The effective rainbow forms, seen at this point, have given it the name it bears. A child of eight years once fell into the torrent at this point, and was lost, to- gether with a gallant lad who jumped in to rescue her. Biddle's Stairs, on th<» west side of the island, was named after Horse-Shoe Fall.] NEW YORK. [Niagara Falls. Nicholas Biddle, of United States Bank ifame, by whose order they were built. " Make us something," he is reported to have said to the workmen, " by which we may descend and see what is below." At the base of these spiral stairs, which are secured to the rocks by strong iron fastenings, there are two diverging paths. The up river way, toward the Horse-Shoe Fall, is difficult, and much obstructed by fallen rocks ; but down the current a noble view is gained of the centre Fall or Cave of the Winds. Sam PatcKs Leap. — It was upon the west side of Goat Island, near Biddle's Stairs, that the re- nowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps into the waters below, saying, as he went off, to the throng of spectators, that " one thing might be done as well as another ! " The fellow made one jump too much, within the same year (1829), over the Genesee Falls, at lioch- ester. Reascending the Biddle Stairs, we come, after a few rods' travel, to a resting- place at a little house, and thence we go down the bank, and crossing a bridge, reach Prospect [Terrapin) Tovier. This precarious placed edifice, which seems to have " rushed in, as fools do, where angels fear to tread," is on Iris Island. very near the edge of the precipice, above which it rises some 45 feet in the air. From the top, which is surrounded by an iron railing, a magnificent scene is presented — a panorama of the Niagara wonders — the like of which can be seen from n.0 other point. Here a register for visitors is kept. Tlte Moi°ge=.S5]ioe Fall— al- ways marvellous from whatever position it is viewed — forms the connecting link be- tween the scenes of the American and Canadian sides of the river. This mighty cataract is 144 rods across, and it is said by Prof. Lyell that fifteen hundred mil- lions of cubic feet of water pass over its ledges every hour. One of the con- demned lake ships (the Detroit) was sent over this fall in 1829, and, though she drew 18 feet of water, she did not touch the rocks in jDassing over the brink of the precipice, showing a solid body of water, at least some 20 feet deep, to be above the ledge. We shall return to the Horse-Shoe Fall from the Canada side. Gull Island, just above, is an unap- proachable spot, upon which it is not likely or possible that man has ever yet stood. There are three other small isles seen from here, called the Three Sisters. Near the Three Sisters, on Goat Island, is the spot remembered as the resort of an eccentric character, and called, after him, the Bathing-Place of Francis Abbott t':e Hermit. At the head of Goat Island is Navy Island, near the Canada shore. It was the scene of incidents in the Cana- dian rebellion of 1837-'38, known as the McKenzie War. Chippewa, which held at that period some 5,000 British troops, is upon the Canadian shore, nearly oppo- site. It was near Fort Schlosser, bard by, that, about this period, the A.merican steamboat Carohne, was set on fire, and sent over the falls, by the order of Col. McNabb, a British oflScer. Some frag- ments of the wreck lodged on Gull Island, where they remained until the following spring. Grand Island, which contains 11,000 acres, was the spot on which Major M. M. Noah hoped to assemble all the Hebrew populations of the world. Near the ferry there was once an observatory or pago- da, 100 feet high, from which a gi'and view of the region was gained. This spot is called Point View. The Whirlpool. — Three miles below the Falls (American side) is the Whirl- pool, resembling in its appearance the celebrated Maelstrom on the coast of Norway. It is occasioned .by the river making nearly a right angle, while it is here narrower than at any other place, not being more than 30 rods wide, and the current running with such velocity as to rise up in the middle 10 feet above the sides. This has been ascertained by measurement. There is a path leading down the bank to the Whirlpool on both sides, and, though somewhat difficult to descend and ascend, it is accomplished almost every day. The Pevil's Hole is a mile below the Whirlpool. It embraces about two acres, cut out laterally and perpendicularly in the rock by the side of the river, and is 150 feet deep. An angle of this hol'e or gulf comes within a few feet of the stage- road, affiardiug travellers an opportunity, without alighting, of looking into the 61 JllASM TOWEE.] NEW YORK. [Table Rock, 'awning abyss. But they should alight, ind pass to the farther side of the fiat )rojecting rock, where tliey wiU feel hemselves richly repaid for their trouble, nto the Devil's Ilole falls a stream mown by the unpoetical name of the 3loo(hj Run. Cliasiu Xo"*ver, three and a half uiles below the Falls, is '75 feet high, and lommands fine views (seen, if you please, n all hues, through a specular medium) )f all the country round. A fee is re- [uired. The . Suapension Bridge spans he river two miles below the Falls. Its otal length, from centre to centre of the owers, is 800 feet ; its height above the vater, 258 feet. The first bridge, which vas built by Mr. Charles Ellett, was a 'ery light and fairy-hke affair, in com- )arison with the present substantial itructure. The bridge, as it now stands, vas constructed under the direction of Av. John A. Roebling, at a cost of $500,- )00. The same able architect and en- ;ineer is now engaged on the suspension )ridge across the Ohio, at Cincinnati, [he towers are 66 feet high, 15 feet iquare at the base, aud 8 feet at the top. Che bridge is supported by four cables, iach being nine and a half inches in diam- iter, and composed of 8,000 wires. It vas first crossed by the locomotive March 5, 1855. Twenty-eight feet below the loor of the railway tracks a carriage aud botway is suspended. This bridge is ised at present by the New York Cen- i-al, the Erie, and the Great Western Canada) roads. Having examined the jridge, we will now cross it to the oppo- site shore. Taking a carriage at our lotel, on the American side, we may ' do " the Canadian shore very comfort- ibly between breakfast and dinner, if we lave no more time to spare. The reg- ilar price of carriage hire at the livery stables is one dollar per hour. Make your jontract when you engage, as overcharges ire fashionable. On the plank road, going md returning, the toll is five cents ; at he bridge, for each foot passenger, going md returning the same day, 25 cents, or 12 J each way. If the passenger does lot return, the bridge toll is still 25 cents. 5'or each carriage (two horses), going and -eturning, 50 cents for each passenger, md 50 cents besides for the carriage. 62 A plank road leads from the opposite terminus of the bridge to the Cliftou House. At the bridge is shown a basket in which Mr. Ellett, his wife, and other ladies and gentlemen, crossed over the river, on a single wire, about one inch iu cUameter. A perilous journey across such a gorge and at an elevation in the air of 280 feet ! Two or three persons thus crossed at a time, the basket being let down on an inclined plane to the cen- tre of the towers (this was duiing the building of the first suspension bridge), and then di-awn up by the help of a wind- lass to the opposite side. The usual time in crossing was from three to four minutes. By the means of this basket the lives of four men were once saved, when the planks of the foot bridge were blown off in a violent storm, aud they were suspended over the river by only two strands of wire, which oscillated, with immense rapidity, 60 or 70 feet. The basket was sent to their relief, at a mo- ment when the hurricane grew less fear- ful, and they descended into it by means of a ladder, one at a trip only, until all were released from their terrible position. The exploits of Blondin and Leslie, with which our readers are all doubtless fa- miliar, have since thrown these ventures far in the shade. Bender^s Cave is midway between the Suspension Bridge and the Clifton House. It is a recess sis feet high and twenty in length, made by a decomposition of the limestone. The Clifton House is an old and very favorite resort here, famed for its home luxuries and for its noble position, over- looking the river and Falls. It was the residence of Mdlle. Jenny Lind during her visit to Niagara. It stands nearly opposite the centre of the irregular cres- cent formed by the Falls ; but it is so far back from the line of the arc, that the height and grandeur of the two cataracts, to an eye unacquainted with the scene, are respectively diminished. After once making the tour of the points of view, however, the distance and elevation of the hotel are allowed for by the eye, and the situation seems most advantageous. Table Rock exists now only in name, and the sort of posthumous interest which attaches to the spot where it stood. Termination Rock.] NEW YORK. [The Museum. The grand overhanging platform called Table Rock, and the fearful abysmal scene at the very base ofthe mighty Horse- Shoe Fall, once constituted one of the cardinal wonders of Niagara. This fa- mous rock fell in 1862, but the vicinity is still a place much resorted to by visitors at the Falls. If one would listen to the terrible noise of the great cataract, let him come here, where the sound of its hoarse utterance drowns all lesser sounds, and his own speech is inaudible to him- self. Termination Mock occupies a recess behind the centre of the Horse-Shoe Fall, reached by the descent of a spiral stair- way from Table Rock, the traverse for a short distance of the rude marge of the river, and then of a narrow path over a frightful ledge and through the blinding spray, behind the mighty Fall. Before de- scending visitors should make a com- plete change of toilet for a rough costume more suitable for the stormy and rather damp journey before them. When fully equipped, their ludicrous appearance ex- cites for a while a mirthful feeling, in singular contrast with the solemn senti- ment of all the scene around them. This strange expedition, often made even by ladies, has been thus described : " The guide went before, and we followed close under the cliif. A cold, clammy wind blew strong in our faces from the mo- ment we left the shelter of the staircase, and a few steps brought us into a pelting- fine rain, that penetrated every opening of our dresses and made our foothold very slippery and difficult. We were not yet near the sheet of water we were to walk through ; but one or two of the party gave out and returned, declaring it was impossible to breathe ; and the rest, imitating the guide, bent nearly double to keep the beating spray from theii nostrils, and pushed on, with enough to do to keep sight of his heels. We ar- rived near the difficult point of our prog- ress ; and in the midst of a confusion of blinding gusts, half deafened, and more than half drowned, the guide stop- ,ped to give us a hold of his skirts and a jlittle counsel. All that could be heard amid the thunder of the cataract beside ;us was an injunction to push on when it Igot to the worst, as it was shorter to get beyond 'the sheet than to go back; and with this pleasant statement of our dilem- ma, we faced about with the longest breath we could draw, and encountered the enemy. It may be supposed that every person who has been dragged through the column of water which ob- structs the entrance to the cavern behind this cataract, has a very tolerable idea of the pains of drowning. What is wanting in the density of the element is more than made up by the force of the con- tending winds, which rush into the mouth, eyes, and nostrils, as if flying from a water-fiend. The ' courage of worse behind ' alone persuades the gasp- ing sufferer to take one desperate step more." The Museum, near Table Rock, con- tains more then 10,000 specimens of minerals, birds, fishes, and animals, many of which were collected in the neighbor- hood of the Falls. Admittance — which includes the use of the dress and admis- sion to the Cave of the Winds, 50 cents. The Burning Spring is near the water, two miles above the Falls. The carbon- ated sulphuretted hydrogen gas here gives out a brilliant flame when lighted. The height of the American Fall is 164 feet, that of the Canadian or Horse-shoe 150 feet. The former is 900 feet across, the latter 1,900. The roar ofthe waters has been heard at Toronto, 44 miles away, and yet in some states of wind and atmosphere it is scarcely perceptible in the immediate neighborhood. Niagara presents a new and most unique as- pect in winter, when huge icicles hang from the precipices, and immense frozen piles of a thousand fantastic shapes glit- ter in the bright sunlight. Father Hen- nepin, a Jesuit missionary, was the first European who ever saw Niagara. His visit was in IG^S. In the vicinity of Niagara is Leivis- ton, seven miles distant, at the head of navigation on Lake Ontario — and di- rectly opposite Lewiston is Queenstown. Queenstown is well worthy a visit from the sojourner at the Falls, and af- fords a most delightful drive. It is his- torically as well as pictorially interesting. Here General Brock and his aide-de-camp McDonnell fell, October 11, 1812. Brock''a Monument, which crowns the 63 jAUANAC Lakes.] NEW YORK. [Paranac Lakks. ieij;;lits above the village, is 185 feet ligli, surmounted by a dome of nine feet, ivliich is reaehed by a sjiiral fliglit of 250 Jteps from tlie base inside. Tlie remains )t' Brocli and his comrade lie in stone sarcophagi beneath, having been re- uoved thither from Fort George. This s the second monument erected on the ;pot, the first having been destroyed by [jett, in 1840. MOUTE VII. THE ADinOKBACK MOUNTAINS, SAB- ANAG LAKES, ETC. {For rcmies, seep. 66.) The upper part of the State of New York, hing west and south of Lake ['hamplain and the St. Lawrence River, i-espectively, is still a wild primitive for- est region, of the highest interest to the tourist for its wonderful natural beauties, and for the ample facilities it offers for the pleasures of the rod and the rifle. Fine mountain-peaks stud the whole region, and charming lakes and lakelets are so abundant that travel here is made by water instead of by land — traversing the pouds in row-boats or canoes, which ire carried by easy portage from one lovely brook or lake to another. Deer fill the woods, and trout are found in the trans- parent floods everywhere. This wilder- Qess land is visited at various points under distinctive names, as the hunting- grounds of the Saranacs, of the Chateau- gay woods, of the Adirondacks, and of Lake Pleasant, etc. We shall speak of these several divisions, briefly, in order. The Saranac Lakes. — These wonder- ful links of the great chain of mountain waters in upper New York are about a dozen in number, large and small. They lie principally in Franklin County, and may be most readily reached by stage from Westport or from Keeseville, about midway on the western shore of Lake Champlain— taking stage or private con- veyance thence (30 miles) to the banks of the Lower Saranac — which is the outer edge of civilization in this direction. From Port Kent, on Lake Champlain, to the foot of the Lower Saranac, is an easy 64 day's journey. There is a little village and an inn or two at this point, and here guides and boats, with all proper camp equipage for forest life, maybe procured. £aker''s, two miles from the Lower Sar- anac, and Martini, are pleasant stopping places. For this route the tourist must engage a boatman, who, for a compensa- tion of two or three dollars per day — the price will be no more if he should have extra passengers— rwill provide a boat, with tent and kitchen apparatus, dogs, rifles, etc. The tourist will supply, be- fore starting, such stores as coffee, tea, biscuit, etc., and the sport by the way, conducted by himself or by his guide, will keep him furnished with trout and ven- ison. If camp life should not please him, he may, with some little incon- venience, so measure and direct his move- ments as to sleep in some one or other of the shanties of the hunters, or of the lumbermen found here and there on the way. The tent in the forest, however, is preferable. Returning from St. Regis, and back via the Upper to the Middle Saranac, we continue ouv journey, by portage, to the Stony Crieic ponds — thence three miles by Stony Creek to the Racquette River — a rapid stream, with wonderful forest vegetation upon its banks. This water followed for some 20 miles brings us to Tujype')-''s Lake — the finest part of the Saranac region. Tupper's Lake is the largest of -this chain, being seven miles long, and from one to two miles broad. The shores and headlands and islands are especially picturesque and bold, and at this point the deer is much more easily found than elsewhere in the neighborhood. Below Tupper's Lake — the waters commingling — is Lovc/Jmeali, another charming pond. The chain con- tinues on yet for miles, but the Saranac trip, proper, ends here. This mountain voyage and the return to Lake Champlain might be made in a week, but two or three, or even more, should be given to it. It is seldom that ladies make the excursion, but they might do so with great delight. The boatmen and hunters of the region are fine, hearty, intelligent and obliging fellows. That wonderful ravine, the "Walled Banks of the Au Sable," (see Index) should be seen by i i Adirondack Mountains.] NEW YORK. [Lake Pleasant. the Sarauac tourist on his way from Lake Champlain to Keeseville. Hammond, in his excellent work, " Hills, Lakes, and Forest Streams," gives an excellent route from Dannemora, in Clinton County, via Chazy Lake, Bradley's Pond, the Upper Chateaugay, Ragged Lake, Indian and Meacham Lakes, Big Clear Bond, St. Regis Lake to the Upper Saranac. Leaving the Lower Saranac, we will pass pleasantly along some half-dozen miles — then make a short portage, the guide carrying the huge boat by a yoke on the back, to the Middle Saranac — there we may go on to the upper lake of the same name, and thence by a long portage of three miles to Lake St. Regis. These are all large and beautiful waters, full of pict- uresque islands, and hemmed in upon all sides by fine mountain ranges. Trout may be taken readily at the inlets of all the brooks, and deer may be found in the forests almost at will. taisas. — The Adirondack region em- braces the eastern portion of the pla- teau which forms the Wilderness of Northern New York. It may be reached by private conveyance over a rude moun- tain-road from Schroon Lake, above Tiake George, or more conveniently from Crown Point village, just beyond the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake Champlain. The distance thence is some 30 miles, and requires a day to travel. The tourist in this region will move about by land more than by water, as among the Saranacs ; for, although the lakes are numerous enough, it is among and upon the hills that the chief attractions are to be found. The accommodations, though still rude enough, are much better than in former years. Stopping at this point, as headquarters, he may make a pleasant journey down Lake Sandford near by, on one side, and upon Lake Henderson on the other hand. In one water he ought to troll for pickerel, and in the other cast his fly for trout ; and upon both enjoy the noble glimpses of the famous moun- tain-peaks of the Adirondack group, the cliffs of the G-r eat Indian Pass, of Mount Volden, McJntyre, Echo Mountain, and other bold scenes. It will be a day's jaunt for him afterward to explore the wild gorge of the Indian Pass, five miles distant ; another day's work to visit the dark and weird waters of Avalanche Lake; and yet another to reach the Preston Ponds, five miles in a different direction. He will find, indeed, occupa- tion enough for many days, in exploring 'these and many other points, which we cannot now catalogue. In any event he must have two days to do the tramp, par excellence, of the Adirondacks, to visit the summit of Tahawus, or Movmt Marcy, the monarch of the region. Tahawus is 12 miles away, and the ascent is extremely toilsome. The Adirondacks (named after the Indian nation which once inhabited these fastnesses) lie chiefly in the county of Essex, though they extend outside the limits of that county. Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, " the Cloud Splitter," is 5,46*7 feet high. Mount Mclntyre has an ele- vation almost as great. The Dial Moun- tain, McMartin, and Colden are also very lofty peaks, impressively seen from the distance, and- inexhaustible in the attrac- tions which their ravines and waterfalls present. Mue Moimtahi, Liz's Peak, Nippletop, Cove Hill, Moor Mountain, White Face, and other grand peaks be- long to the neighboring range called the Keene Mountains. White Face is the most northern, and, except Mount Marcy, the loftiest of the wilderness crests. Ijake l^lesas asat. — To reach Lake Pleasant and the adjoining waters of Round, Piseco, and Louis Lake — a favorite and enchanting summer resort and sporting-ground — take the Central Railway from Albany, 33 miles to Am- sterdam, thence by stage or carriage to Holmes''s Hotel, on Lake Pleasant. The ride from Amsterdam is about 30 miles, The stage stops over night at a village, en roxcte. Mr. Holmes's house is an ex- •cellent place, with no absurd luxuries, but with every comfort for which the true sportsman can wish. It is a delightful summer home for the student, and may be visited very satisfiictorily by ladies. The wild lands and waters here are a part of the lake region of Northern New York, of which we have already seen something on the Saranacs, and among the Adiron- dacks. The Saranac region is connect- ed mth Lake Pleasant by intermediate waters and portages. The deer and other game are abundant here in the forests, and 65 KOUTES.] NEW YORK. [Routes. fine trout may be taken in all the brooks and lakes. Lake Pleasant and its pict- uresque surroundings lie in Hamilton County. The Northern Wilderness of New York is similar in its attractions to the wilderness in the upper part of the State of Maine. The following synopsis of routes to the different parts of the Wilderness, gleaned mainly from Alfred B. Street's excellent work, " Woods and Waters," will be found useful to the trav- eller in that region: Some of* tiae l*riMcipa,l ISoiites into tine I^ortlaei'm "lYildleriaess froBn Esistei'ii, Soiatlieria, and. Western Ne^v "SToi-lf. I.— INTO THE CHATEAUGAT W00D3. 1st. From Plattsburg to Dannemora State Prison, and Chazy Lake, 25 or 30 miles. 2d. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and Chateaugay Lakes. II.— INTO THE SAEANAC REGION. 3d. By steamboat to Port Kent (or steamboat or railroad to Burlington, op- posite), on Lake Champlain. Thence by post-coach to Keeseville (Essex County), four miles. From Keeseville, 16 miles, to £aker^s Saranac Lake House, two miles short of the Lower Saranac Lake ; 3r to Martin''s, on the banks of the Lower Saranac ; or to BartleWs, between Round Lake and Upper Saranac Lake, 13 miles Prom Martin's. The Keeseville road is a 50od travelling road, planked from Keese- i'ille to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keeseville. At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 niles from Keeseville, the visitor can ;urn off into a road through the village )f Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown 'oad, about 12 miles from Baker's. This •oad leads through the famous White Face or Wilmington notch. 4th. By steamboat to Westport, on Lake Champlain. Thence to EUzabeth- ;own, and thence to Baker's or Bartlett's, )r to Martin's. This route is about the 66 same distance as the Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so good. III.— INTO THE ADIRONDACK, RACKET AND HUDSON RIVER REGIONS. 5th. From Crown Point, on Lake Champlain, to RooVs, about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adirondack Lower Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake, 20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to Long Lake usually once a week during the summer. From the Lower Works to Adirondack village or Upper Works, by water (through Lake Sandford), 10 or 12 miles ; by road, same. From the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus (Mount Marcy), four miles, and three miles to top. From the Upper Works to the famous Indian Pass (the most majestic natural wonder, next to Niagara, in the State), four miles. From the Indian Pass to Scoffs, on the Elizabethtown road (through the woods, with scarcely a path), seven miles ; thence to Baker's (over a road), 14 miles. 6th. From Glenn's Falls to Roofs, over a good road, SO miles, viz. : From Glenn's Falls to Lake George, nine miles ; thence to Warreusburg, six miles ; thence to Chester, eight or ten miles ; thence to Pottersville, six or eight miles ; thence to Root's, and thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or the Upper Works ; or from Pottersville to the Boras River, 15 miles. Vth. From Carthage, in Jefferson County (by way of the Beach Road), to Long Lake, 40 or 50 miles ; thence to Pendleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson River Bridge, about fiye miles; thence to the Lower Works, about five miles. Can drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower Works. 8th. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake George ; thence to Johns- burg ; thence to North Creek ; thence to Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake (the mid- dle of the three Blue Mountain Lakes). From North Creek to Eagle Lake, 20 miles. 9th. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant and Pisco. IV.— INTO THE JOHN BROWN TRACT REGION. _ 10th. From Uticaby railroad to Boone- ville ; thence to Lyonsdale and Port Ley- I Trenton Falls.] NEW YORK. [Teenton Falls, deu, seven miles by stage-road ; thence to Deacon Abby's Place, 6^ miles, over a good road ; thence to Arnold's (over rather a poor road, although passable by wagon), 14 miles. 11th. From Utica by railroad to Boone- ville ; thence to Booth's mills, 1 1 miles, over a good wagon-road ; thence to Ar- nold's by pack-horses (sent by Arnold to Booth's mills), 14|- miles, over a rather rough road. 12th. From Utica by railroad to Alder Creek ; thence by road to the Reservoir Lakes. 13th. From the village of Prospect (Oneida County, reached by railroad), through Herkimer County, to Morehouse, in Hamilton County. 14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racket River, by Ogdenshurg and Lake Chanvplain Railroad; thence to Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence to the foot of the Little Bog at McEwen's, on the Racket River, 12 miles, by private conveyance, over a good road ; thence by boat 1^ miles, to Bog Falls ; thence a short portage on east side of river ; thence to Harris's place, 4^ miles, opposite the mouth of the Jordan River; thence 3|^ miles by wagon-road to John Ferry's; thence three miles farther on, same road, to foot of Moose-Head Still Water; thence through the latter, six miles ; thence nine miles to Racket Pond ; and thence five miles to Big Tapper's Lake. BOUTE nil. NEW yobs: to TBENTON falls, via UTICA, ETC. "Trentoia ff'alls is the place, above all others, where it is a luxury to stay — which one oftenest revisits, which one most commends to strangers to be sure to see. " In the long corridor of travel between New York and Niagara, Tren- ton," says Mr. Willis, " is a sort of alcove aside — a side-scene out of earshot of the crowd — a recess in a window, whither you draw a friend by the button for the sake of chit-chat at ease," Trenton Falls is rather a misnomer, for the wonder of nature which bears the name is a tre- mendous torrent, whose bed, for several miles, is sunk fathoms deep into the earth — a roaring and dashing stream, so far below the surface of the forest, in which it is lost, that you would think, as you come suddenly upon the edge of this long precipice, that it was a river in some in- ner world (coiled within ours, as we in the outer circle of the firmament), and laid open by some Titanic throe that had cracked clear asunder the crust of this " shallow earth." The idea is rather as- sisted if you happen to see below you, on its abysmal shore, a party of adventurous travellers ; for at that vast depth, and in contrast with the gigantic trees and rocks, the same number of well-shaped pismires, dressed in the last fashion, and philander- ing upon your parlor floor, would be about of their apparent size and distinctness. Trenton Falls are upon the West Canada Creek, a branch of the Mohawk, 17 miles from Utica (see Utica). The descent of the stream, 812 feet in a distance of two miles, is by a series of half a dozen cataracts, of wonderful va- riety and beauty. Every facility of path and stairway and guide, for the tour of the Trenton ravine, has been provided by Mr. Moore, who has for many years re- sided on the spot, and has been always its Prospero, and its favorite host. A walk of a few rods through the woods brings the visitor to the brink of the pre- cipice, descended by secure stairways for some hundred feet. The landing is a broad pavement, level with the water's edge, often, in times of freshet, the bed of foaming floods. Here is commanded a fine view of the outlet of the chasm, 45 rods below, and also of the first cascade, 37 rods up the stream. The parapet of , the First Fall, visible from the foot of the stairs, is, in dry times, a naked perpen- dicular rock, 33 feet high, apparently ex- tending quite across the chasm, the water retiring to the left, and being hid from the eye by intervening prominences. But in freshets, or after rain, it foams over, from one side of the gorge to the other, in a broad amber sheet. A pathway to this fall has been blasted at a considerable cost, under an overhanging rock and around an extensive projection, directly beneath which rages and roars a most violent rapid. The passage, though at first of dangerous aspect, is made secure by chains well riveted to the rock wall. 67 ENTON Falls.] NEW YORK. [Lkbanon Springs. Passing to the left, yet a few rods 3ve, we come to She7-man''s Fall, feet high, so named in memory of J Rev. Mr. Sherman, whose account of ! spot we arc now closely following. was one of the earliest pioneers of the jnton beauties, and it was by him that ' first house, called the " Rural Resort," ' the accommodation of visitors, was ilt. The fall has formed an immense javation, having thrown out thousands tons from the parapet rock, visible at ; stairs, and is annually forcing oft' slabs the west corner, against which it inces- itly forces a section of its powerful jet. A nated mass of rock, extending 160 feet, juts frowningly forward, ich is ascended by natural steps to a int from which the visitor looks secure- down upon the rushing watei'S. Leaving this rocky shelf, and passing vild rapid, we come suddenly in sight the High Falls, 40 rods beyond. Tliis !cade has a perpendicular descent of 9 feet, while the cliffs on either side rise ae SO feet yet higher. The whole body water makes its way at this point — dded by intervening ledges into sepa- ;e cataracts, which fall first about 40 !t, then reuniting on a flat below, and Bring suddenly around an inchnation of :?ky steps, they plunge into the dark Idron beneath. The Rural Retreat, 20 ;t above the summit of the High Falls, readily reached by a flight of stairs. The opening of the chasm now he- mes considerably enlarged, and a new riety of scene occurs. Mill-i)am Fall, 14 it high, lies some distance beyond, iching across the whole breadth of the asm. Ascending this fall, the visitor comes a still larger platform level rock, 15 :1s wide at low water, and 90 in length, ed on each side by cedars. At the ex- !mity of this locality, which is known the Alliambra, a bare rock 50 feet in ight reaches gradually forward from the d-distance ; and, from its shelving top, 3re descends a perpetual rill, which -ms a natural shower-bath. A. wild taract fills the picture on the left. Here 3 wide opening suddenly contracts, and larrow aperture only remains, with vis- 5 of winding mountain, cliff, and crag. !ar by is a dark basin, where the waters 68 rest from the turmoil of the wild cascade above. In this vicinage is an amphi- theatre of seemingly impossible access, replete with ever-new surprises and de- lights. Yet beyond is the Moelnj Hear!, the jioiut at which the traverse of the ravine usually ends, though despite tlic difficulties and dangers of the way, even ladies frequently penetrate beyond as far as the faUs at Boon's Bridge, the terminus of the gorge. The scene at Trenton varies much, ac- cording as drought or freshet dries or fills the stream, and passages are easy enough at one time, which are uttei'ly impracti- cable at others. It is difficult to say when the glen is the most beautiful, whether with much or with little water. IjeljaBioia Sprim g-s and Slssilcei- "f^Olag'e. — Hotels, Co- lumbia Hall. Route. — Same as Route I. (See Hud- son.) There are ample accommodations for the traveller at this favorite watering- place, in a well-appointed hotel, a water- cure establishment, etc., pleasantly perched on a hill-slope, ovcrlookng a beautiful valley. There are pleasant drives all around, over good roads, to happy villages, smiling lakelets, and in- viting spots of many characters. Trout, too, may be taken in the neighbor- hood. The waters of the Spring flow from a cavity 10 feet in diameter, and in sufficient volume to work a mill. Its temperature is '72 ". It is soft, and pleas- antly suited for bathing uses, is quite tasteless and inodorous. For cutaneous affections, rheumatism, nervous debility, liver complaint, etc., it is an admirable remedial agent. The village- of N"ew Lebanon, or the celebrated Shaker settlement, is two miles from the Springs, and is a point of great interest to the visitors there, espe- cially on Sunday, when their singular forms of worship may be witnessed. (See Hudson.) SIisBrom Spi'iBBg's. — Hotels. — The Pavilioit is a large and well-ap- pointed establishment. The Eldridge is also a good house. Route. — From Albany, by the Central Railroad, as far as Palatine Bridge, 55 miles ; thence by stage, 10 miles, over a Colombia Springs.] NEW YOEK. [Avon Springs. plank road. The waters are pure and clear, and although they flow for one-fourth of a mile from their source with other cur- rents, they yet preserve their own dis- tinct character. The fall here is of suffi- cient force and volume to turn a mill. It tumbles over a ledge of perpendicular rocks, with a descent of some 65 feet. The magnesia and the sulphur springs much resemble the White Sulphur of Yirginia. Che)-r'j Valley is in the vicinity of Sharon Springs, accessible also from Pala- . tine Bridge, and from Canajoharie, on the Erie Canal, from which it lies about 26 miles in a southwest direction. Otsego Lake and Oooperstown^ famous as the home of the lateFeuimore Cooper, the novelist, are near by. Coluiultia. Springs. — (For route, see Hudson.) The Columbia Springs have of late years grown into popular favor. They are easily accessible, lying- only five miles from the City of Hudson. They are within the town of Stockport, Columbia County, New York. The site and grounds are highly varied and picturesque, jump- ing delightfully from hill to dale, from forest glen to grassy lawn. In the imme- diate neighborhood, moreover, there flows a pleasant lake, offering all the country charms of boating and flshing. . The hotel here, under the management of Mr. C. B. Nash, is large and well appointed. Avon Spa-img's. — The village of Avon is 20 miles distant from Rochester, on the Genesee River. A railway con- nects it with Geneseo, Cuylerville, and Mount Morris. The springs contain sul- phur and salt, and are efficacious in cases of rheumatism and indigestion. Good hotel accommodation. Miclifield Spring's. : — Hotel, Spring House. Richfleld Springs are in the town of Richfield, Otsego County, southeast of Utica, near the head of Canaderaga, one of the numerous lakes of this part of New York. Otsego Lake is six miles distant ; and another six miles will take the trav- eller to Cooperstown. Cherry Valley, Springjield, and other villages are near by. Route from New York and Albany, via Central Railway to Herkimer, 81 miles, and thence by stage. 69 ONNECXICUT.l CONNECTICUT. [Route I CONInTECTICUT. The scenery of Connecticut is delight- ully varied by the passage of the Con- lecticut, the Housatonic, and other pict- iresque rivers ; and of several low hill anges. Spurs of the Green Mountains ise here and there, in isolated groups or loints through the western portions of he State. The Talcot, or Greenwood's, lange extends from the northern boun- lary almost to New Haven. Between his chain and that in the extreme west, ies another ridge, with yet two others on he eastward — the Middletown Moun- ains, and the line across the Connec- icut, which is a continuation, most prob- ibly, of the White Hills of New Hamp- ihire. Lying between these mountain anges are valleys of great luxuriance and )eauty. The valley of the Connecticut, low traversed by rail through a greater )art of its length, affords some of the most )icturesque scenery in New England. Phe lakes . among the mountains of the lorthwestern corner of the State are ex- remely attractive. The Long Island sound, which waters the entire coast of Connecticut, is 140 miles long and 24 vide, and affords some fine scenery. (See jOng Island.) If we except a small rading-house built by the Dutch at Hart- brd, in 1631, the first colony planted in [Connecticut was the settlement of some )f the Massachusetts emigrants at Wind- sor. Soon afterward Hartford fell into ;he possession of the English colonists. iVeiliersfield was next occupied, in 1636, md New Haven in 1638. The State had ts share of Indian troubles in its earlier listory, and of endurance, later, in the lays of the Revolution. Hartford and ^ew Haven are the capitals, and chief ;ities of the State. Norwalk, Bridgeport, md New London have each a popula- 70 tion of about 12,000. The population of. the State (1860) was 460,146. Routes. — There are five routes by steamboat and railway from New York through portions of Connecticut to Boston, affording daily communication throughout the year. (See Boston and New York.) MOUTE I, NEW YORK TO NEW HA YEN, HABT- FORD, SPRINGFIELD, ETC. {Via New York and New Haven, and New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield Bail- ways.) Stations. — Twenty-seventh Street and Fourth Avenue ; Forty-second Street Hai-lem, 6 miles ; Williams Bridge, 12 Mount Vernon, 1^ ; New Rochelle, 18 Maraaroneck, 22 ; Rye, 25 ; Port Chester, 27 ; Greenwich, 31 ; Stamford, 37 ; Nor- walk, 45 ; W^estport, Southport, 52 ; Fair- field, Bridgeport, 59 ; Stratford, 62 ; Nau- gatuck Railroad Junction, Milford, West Haven, New Haven, 76; Meriden, 94; Hartford, 112; Springfield, 138. Over this fine road from New York to Springfield there is laid a double track, and express trains stop only at the principal stations, running through to Springfield, without change, in five hours. (For description of points on this line between New York and Williams Bridge, see New York and Vicinity, and New York and Harlem Railway.) Nc^v Moclaelie, in Westchester County, N. Y.. is pleasantly situated on the Long Island Sound. It was settled by Huguenots from Rochelle, in France. It was the residence of Thomas Paine, who died here, June 8, 1809. A menu- Bkidgeport.] CONNECTICUT. [New Haven. ment to his memory still stands near where he was first buried. Port Cliestex', situated on By- ram River, in the township of Kye, West- chester County, is the last j)oint passed on this line before entering Connecticut. ©i'eeii"svicSa, three miles beyond Port Chestei', commands a fine view of the Sound and Long Island. It has two large churches, and several handsome resi- dences. Greenwich is famous as the scene of "Putnam's breakneck ride" down the rocks. The spot known as " Put's Hill " can be seen from the train to the east of the depot. @t£&n(i.£<>a-4i (3*7 miles), in Fairfield County, at the mouth of Mill River, has of late years been much resorted to by visitors during the summer months. It has four pleasant parks and numerous drives, eight church edifices, and a popu- lation of 4,000. J^or'wallc. — Hotel, AUiss House. Norwalk (45 miles) is a pleasant vil- lage, upon Norwalk River. It was burnt by the British, July 11, 17'79. The JVor- walk and Danhury Railroad, 24 miles, comes in at this point. The quiet rural beauties of Norwalk, and its proximity to New York, make it one of the most desirable as well as available summer re- sorts of Connecticut. The oyster business is extensively carried on here, as is also the manufacture of hats. North of the South-port Station, is the Pequot Swamp, where that once powerful tribe of Indians made their last stand (163*7) against Con- necticut and Massachusetts troops. Fair- field, farther on our journey, was burnt (July 7, 17Y9) by Governor Tryon, who sailed the previous day from New Haven. ISritlg-eport. — Hotel, the Stanley House. Bridgeport, 59 miles from New York, is the southern terminus of the Housatonic Railway. This route lies through the most picturesque portions of Connecticut and Massachusetts — the western or moun- tain regions. (See Housatonic Valley.) The Naugatuck Railway extends hence, via Waterbury (62 miles), to Winsted. Steamers ply between New York and Bridgeport. The town is upon an arm of the Long Island Sound, at the mouth of the Peqnannock River. A terrace height of 50 feet, occupied by beau- tiful private mansions and cottages, com- mands a charming view of the town and the Sound. Washington and Seaside Parks are fine public grounds. The town is celebrated for its manufactures of sewing- machines and fire-arms. Among the most extensive establishments are those of the Wheeler & Wilson and Howe Sewing- Machine Companies, and the New Haven Arms Company. In Bridgeport was born the famous dwarf, Charles S. Stratton, alias " Tom Thumb." lAndencroft, the homestead of P. T. Barnum, the famous showman, is a short distance west of the town. Population, 18,000. Milford, eight miles north of Bridge- port, presents a picturesque appearance. The streets are lined with stately elms. In the cemetery near the railway east of the depot is a monument 30 feet high, erected over the remains of the American soldiers brought here from New York, January, IVZV. West and East JRocks are seen on ap- proaching New Haven from Bridgeport. On the summit of West Rock is the Judges' Cave, where Goffe and Whalley, two of the judges who condemned King Charles I., concealed themselves. From the summit of EastRoch, 400 feet high, a wide view of New Haven and the neigh- boring Sound is had. Ne^v MavcM. — Hotels : the New Haven, on Chapel Street, overlooking the Park, and the Tontine, corner of Church and Court Streets, are both good houses. New Haven, '76 miles from New York, is one of the most beautiful and interest- ing places in New England. It is known as the " Elm City," from the extraordinary number of beautiful trees of this species by which the streets are so gratefully shaded and so charmingly embellished. It is beautifully situated on an extensive plain at the head of the bay or harbor, which extends from the Sound a distance of four miles. North of the city are highlands overlooking it and the Sound, prominent among which are East and West Rocks. It was settled (1638) by an English Company from London, and was originally laid out in a plot half a mile square. There are upward of 30 church edifices in the city, and the popu- lation exceeds 40,000, and is rapidly in- creasing. The chief objects of interest — 71 'Jew Haten.] CONNECTICUT. [Hartford. md these no visitor should fail to see — ire Yale College hmldhigs. and the Pub- ic Square, or " Green," as it is familiarly called. The square is easily reached by Jhapel Street, one of the main thorough- ares of the city. It contains 16 acres, and s a most attractive spot. The view in Temple Street, which extends across the iquare north and south, is especially stri- dng. West of Temple Street are Trinity, Voj-ih, and Centre Churches, and still arther west, the Stcde House. The base- nent of the latter building is of marble rom the Sing Sing quarries. New York, ^ew Haven divides the honors of the japital with Hartford, the sessions of the ?tate Legislature being held alternately it either place. The College buildings, burteen in number, fronting the square )n the west, will next attract attention. Dhis famous college, founded in lYOO, md removed to New Hav«n in 1716, is lamed after citizen Slibu Yale, afterward governor of Fort George, in the East In- lies. The Fine-Art Building, recently constructed by Augustus R. Street, and )y him presented to the city, should be asited. It is built of brown stone, and !Ost §180,000. The Trunibidl Gallery contains the original pictures by Colonel lohn Trumbull, of which copies are in ,he rotunda of the Capitol at Washing- ,on. Alumni Hedl, built of Portland reestone, is also a fine edifice. The City Hall, fronting the east side )f the square on Church Street, is an im- posing Gothic edifice, of Portland and S^ova Scotia stone. It was completed in [862, from designs by Austin, at a cost )f .§100,000. The tower, 84 feet high, s surmounted by a spire of 66 feet, in vhich is an alarm-bell and an obser- vatory. In the Grove Street Cemetery are lie graves of Roger Sherman, Noah tVebster, Pierrepont Edwards, James Hill- louse, Timothy Pitkin, and Eli V/hitney. Long Wharf, which extends into the har- 30r nearly 4,000 feet, is said to be the ongcst wharf in the coimtry. The vicinity of New Haven abounds in ittractive diives and rides. Savin Roclc, bur miles southwest, is reached by rail ;o West Haven depot, and thence by itage, or by stage direct from New Haven. rhe beach aflbrds good bathing. The Rock House has ample accommodation for 12 visitors. The Bradford Point House, seven miles east of the city, is also a pleasant resort. Steamboats daily be- tween New Haveji and New York. Wallingford, 12 miles north of New Haven, is a place of extensive manu- factures. A short distance beyond this station is " Mount Tom," upon the slope of which is seen the establishment of the Wallingford Society. The domain cm- braces 230 acres, of which 30 are laid out in orchards and vineyards. The Hanging Hills, said to be the most elevated points in the State, will attract the tourist's no- tice as he nears Meriden, McritleM, 18 miles from New Haven, is an important manufacturing place, with a population of 10,000. It is divided into Meriden and West Meriden. The works of the Meriden Britannia Manufac- turing Company, near the railway station, are 466 feet in length and three stories high, and give employment to 400 opera- tives. The Town Hall and State Reform School are among the most prominent buildings. Mount Lamentation is seen to the eastward, on leaving the station. New Britain is reached by a branch road 2^ miles northwest from Berlin Junction. It is widely known for its manufactures of locks, etc. It has one of the largest fountains in the United States. Middletown, a summer resort on the Connecticut River, is famous for its qnarries. It is 1 miles southeast by rail from Berlin, and 15 miles from Hartford. The McDonongh is the leading hotel. Msfirtroitvjl. — Hotels, the AUyn House and United Sicdes. Hartford, a semi-capital of Connecticut, is 36 miles from New Haven, 112 from New York, and 124 from Boston. It is upon the right bank of the Connec- ticut River, navigable to this point by sloops and small steamboats, 50 miles up from Long Island Sound. The first setr tlement here was made by the Dutch (16.S3), at the junction of Park River with the Connecticut. The place still goes by the name of "Dutch Point." The first English settlement was made in 16S5. Alain Street, two miles long, is a hand- some promenade. Among the prominent literary and educational institutions of Hartford arc Trinity College, the Wads- Haetfokd.] CONNECTICUT. [Route II. worth Ailienafum, erected by private sub- scription at a cost of $52,000, and the Connecticut Historical Society. Tlie Wat- kinson Lihrary^ in the Athenjeum Build- ing, contains some rare books. The statuary romn and picture ffallery in this building are worth visiting (fee). The historical rooms are open daily (free). Among its chief benevolent establish- ments, for which Hartford is alike con- spicuous, are the American Asylum fcr the Deaf and Dumb, incorporated 1816, and the Retreat for the Insane, opened in 1824. The Hartford Hospital, dedi- cated in 1859, is a handsome build- ;iag of Portland stone, and cost $48,000. That old historic relic, the Charter Oak, held in so much reverence, stood in Hartford until 1856, when it was prostrated by a violent storm. A marble slab in Charter Oak Place marks the spot where it stood. CoWs Fire-Arms Manufactory is worthy a visit. It is in the southeast quarter of the city. It encloses 23 acres of land, and gives em- ployment to 800 hands. The residence of the late Mrs. L. H. Sigourney, the poetess, stands on Asylum Street, near the railway depot. Mrs. Stowe is also X resident of Hartford, Population, 35,000. The vicinity of Hartford, like that of ts sister city, New Haven, abounds n picturesque drives and walks. Tum- 'de-Down Brook, eight miles west, on the ilbany road, Talcott Mountain, Weihers- \field, and Frospect Hill are among the most frequented! Leaving Hartford and passing Windsor ^nd Windsor Locks, 12 miles beyond the arst-named city, we shortly reach the great Ton truss bridge over the Connecticut Siver at Warehouse Point. It is 1,525 eet long and cost |265,000, The iron jras supplied, and the frame of the bridge jiut together in England. Its erection ras commenced June, 1865, and com- )leted February, 1866. It has 1*7 spans, pe largest of which is I'ZVi feet. The aanufacturing towns of Enfield and fhompsonville, the former famous for its jowder, the latter for its carpets, are loon reached, and then Longmeadow. ^or continuation of the route northward, ^ee Boston and Worcester Route feou OSTON.) 4 ROUTE II. BBIDOEPORT TO PITTSFIELD. ( Via Housatonic Railway.') The valley of the Housatonic, traversed by the Housatonic River and Railroad, ex- tends for about 100 miles northward from Long Island Sound, through the extreme west of Connecticut and Massachusetts, including the famous county of Berkshire in the latter State. The whole region is replete with picturesque and social at- tractions, and has long been resorted to for summer travel and residence. It is a country of bold hills, pleasant valleys, and beautiful streams — more particularly that portion lying in Berkshire. Saddle Moun- tain, in the north part of this county, is the highest land in Massachusetts. The natural beauties of Monument Mountain, also in Berkshire, have been heightened by traditionary story, and by the verse of Bryant. Stockbridge and Great Barring- ton — very popular summer homes — are here. Stations. — Bridgeport ; Stepney, 10 miles ; Botsford, 15 ; Newtown, 19 ; Hawleyville, 23 ; Brookfield, 29 ; New Milford, 35 ; Gaylordsville, 42 ; Kent, 48 ; Cornwall Bridge, 5*7 ; West Cornwall, 61 ; Palls Village, 6*7 ; Canaan, 73 ; Ashlev Palls, 75 ; ShefiSeld, 79 ; Barrington, 85^; Van Deusenville, 87 ; Housatonic, 89 ; Glendale, 92 ; Stockbridge, 93 ; South Lee, 95 ; Lee, 99 ; Lenox Purnace, 101 ; Lenox, 102 ; Dewey's, 106 ; Pittsfield, 1 10. Routes. — From New York, take the New Haven Railroad, 59 miles, to Bridgeport, on Long Island Sound, thence up the valley, on the Housa- tonic road ; or take the Hudson River, or the River Railroad route, 116 miles, to the city of Hudson, and thence by Hud- son and Boston Railroad, 34 miles, to West Stockbridge ; or the Harlem Rail- road, to'its intersection with the Hudson and Boston, at Chatham Four Corners. From Albany, by the Albany and Boston road, 38 miles, to State line (Housatonic road), or onward to Pittsfield. From Bos- ton by Western (Mass.) road, 151 miles, to Pittsfield. Falls Villas-e, 67 miles. The falls here which are the largest in Con- 73 PiTTSFIELD.] CONNECTICUT. [NoEwicn. nccticut, are very bold aiid picturesque. The waters traverse a ledge of limestone, and make a descent of 60 feet. Xlie Salisbury ILakes. — The country west of Canaan, as all this part of the State, is beautifully embellished with hill and lake scenery. The Twin Lakes, in Salisbury township, are very charming waters. Mo\int Riga is 1,000 feet high. SlaefSIel*! (79 miles) is a prosperous village, famous for its manufactures and for its varied scenic attractions. 15 a, r r i 11 g- 1 © m. . — Hotel, the Berkshire House. Great Barrington, with excellent hotels for summer travel, is a place of favorite resort. Mount Peter, on the southern edge, overlooks the village pleasantly, and is most agreeably seen approaching on the river road from the north. Tlie Taugkemic Mountains, a range extending from the Green Hills of Ver- mont, lie between the Houcatonic valley and the Hudson Eiver. Mount Wash- ington, Mount Riga, and other peaks, are interesting places of pilgrimage and exploration. Following the Housatonic, and passing Monument Mountain, we reach Stockbridge. Old Stockbridge is one of the quietest and most winsome re- treats in the world, lying in the lap of a fertile, hill-sheltered valley. The houses, v/hich are all far apart, and buried in dense verdure, stand back in gardens, upon either side of a broad street or road, thickly lined with noble specimens of the ever-attractive New England elm. The Stockbridge House is well kept. Lebanon Springs (N. Y.), and the Shaker village, are hereabouts. (See New York.) I>itt§iael4l .—Hotel, Rerk- shire House. Pittsfield, Berkshire County, Mass., 110 miles from Bridgeport, is a large manufacturing and agricultural town, elevated 1,100 feet above the level of the sea. It is 151 miles west from Boston, and 49 east from Albany. The village is beautifully situated, and con- tains many elegant public edifices and private dwellings. In this village there is still standing one of the original forest trees — a large elm, 1 20 feet high, and 90 feet to the lowest limb — an interesting relic of the primitive woods, and justly esteemed a curiosity by persons visiting 74 this place. The town received its pres- ent name in 1761, in honor of William Pitt (Earl of Chatham). Upon a fine spacious square in the heart of the town are the principal hotels, the Berkshire Medical School, a popular institution founded in 1823, and the First Congre- gational Church, a Gothic structure of stone, erected in 1853. The Young Ladies'' Lnstitute occupies several admi- rable buildings, surrounded by well-em- bellished grounds. Pittsfield is a large depot of manufactures, being extensively engaged in the production of cotton and woollen goods, machinery, fire-arms, and I'ailroad cars. The population of the township is nearly 9,000. The routes from Pittsfield are to Boston (151 miles), and Albany (49 miles), by the Western (Mass.) Eailway ; and to North Adams (20 miles), by Pittsfield and North Adams Eailway. The Pittsjield and North Adams Route. — Stations: Packard's, Berkshire, Cheshire, Cheshire Harbor, Maple Grove, and South Adams to North Adams. Adams. — The villages of North and South Adams are in the immediate neigh- borhood of Saddle Mountain. This noble peak has an elevation of 3,500 feet, and is the highest land in Massachusetts. There is a notable natural bridge upon Hudson's brook near North Adams. The Hoosac Tunnel is reached from here. "f%''illiajiisto>via, near North Adams, is the seat of Williams College, founded in 1793. This institution is well endowed, and holds high rank among the best educational establish- ments of the country. The village is in one of the most picturesc[ue portions of lovely Berkshire County. Noi'^^TicIi, one of the most beautiful towns in the State, is situated at the junc- tion of the Yantic and Shetucket Elvers, which here form the Thames, and at the head of navigation on that river. It is 13 miles north of New London, the terminus' of the steamboat route No. 4 (see Boston), from New York, and of the JSforicich and Worcester Raihvay. It is noted for its manufactures and fine resi- dences. Eistance to Worcester, 73 miles ; to Boston, 117^ miles. Ne^sv Hiondon, on the Thames Eiver, three miles from the sea and 13 Stonington.] CONNECTICUT. [WiNSTED. miles south of Norwich. (See Boston, Route IV.) The harbor, one of the best in the United States, is environed by hills and defended by Forts Trmnhull and Griswold. The town was first set- tled (1644) by John Winthrop. The Custom-House^ Court-House, the Female Academy, and High School, are prominent edifices. Railway communication with New Haven, Providence, and all the prin- cipal cities. Willimantic is pleasantly situated on the Willimantic River, 30 miles from New London by the Northern Railway, at the intersection of that line with the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. jR. Stafibrd. Spring's, 20 miles be- yond Willimantic, are regarded as among the most valuable chalybeate waters in the country. Good hotel accommoda- tion. Stoning'ton^ on the Stonington and Providence Railway, 12 miles from New London, and 50 miles south of Provi- dence, is a place of some historical and commercial interest. It was settled in 1649, and incorporated 1801. A suc- cessful resistance was here made against the attack of Sir Thomas Hardy in the War of 1812. The Stonmgton Railway, completed in 1835, was the first line built in Connecticut. Mystic, four miles from Stonington, is situated on both sides of the Mystic River, two miles from the sea. Ship and steamboat building is extensively carried on. Plainfield, in Windham County, 35 miles from Providence, via Providence, Hartford, and Fishkill R. R., is a thriving manufacturing town. Waterljiiry^ the western termi- nus of the Providence line, is a thriving manufacturing place, occupying a beau- tiful slope on the Naugatuck River, mid- way between Bridgeport and Winsted. Trains daily, via the Naugatuck Railway, ^%Wiiisted, the northern terminus of the Naugatuck Railway, is a thriving village in Litchfield County. Long Lake has its outlet at the west end of the vil- lage. Population, 4,000. (The Reardsley Hotel.) 16 Rhode Island.] RHODE ISLAND. rPfiOVIDENCE. EHODE ISLAITD. Rhode Island adjoins Connecticut on the east and Massachusetts on the south. It is entitled to distinction as the smallest State in the Union, its entire area not exceeding 1,159 square miles, with an ex- treme length and breadth respectively of 47 and 37 miles. It is divided into five counties, and contained in 1860, 175,000 inhabitants. Next to Providence, the largest towns are Smithfield, Newport, Warwick, Bristol, and Kingston. The country is most pleasantly varied with hill and dale, though there are no mountains of any great pretensions. Ample compensation for this lack in the natural scenery is made by the numerous small lakes which abound everywhere, and especially by the beautiful waters and islands and shores of the Narragan- set Bay, vrhich occupy a great portion of the area of the State. The Pawtucket, Pawtuxet, and Pawcatuck, are the most considerable streams. Its capitals. Prov- idence and Newport, are among the most ancient and most interesting places in the United States, and the latter has long been one of the most fashionable American watering-places. The State of Rhode Island was first settled at Providence, in 1636, by Roger Williams. To the enlightened and lib- ei-al mind of Williams in Rhode Island, and to the like true wisdom of Penn in Pennsylvania and of Lord Baltimore in Maryland, America owes its present hap- py condition of entire freedom of con- science, perfect religious toleration hav- ing been made a cardinal point in the policy of those colonies. Rhode Island proper was settled (1638) by Governor Coddington and others, at Pocasset (now Portsmouth). It was purchased of the Indians, by whom it was called Aquid- neck, "Isle of Peace." Subsequently it 76 was called " Isle of Rhodes " (whence Rhode Island), from the beautiful island of that name in the Mediterranean. The people of Rhode Island were early and active participants in the War of the Revolution, and many spots within her borders tell thrilling tales of the stirring incidents of those memorable days. PROVIDENCE AND VICINITY. Hotels. — The Aldricli House (new), near the railroad depot, and the City Hotel (old), near Broad Street, are the principal houses. Neither has more than moderate accommodations. A first- class hotel is among the most pressing wants of the city. Providence, one of the most beautiful cities in New England, and surpassed only by Boston in wealth and population, is the chief city of Rhode Island. It is pleas- antly situated on the northern arm of the Narraganset Bay, called Providence River. It is an ancient town, dating as far back as 1636 — when' its founder, Roger Williams, driven from the domain of Massachusetts, sought here that reli- gious liberty which was denied to him elsewhere. This city makes a charming picture seen from the approach by the beautiful waters of the Narraganset, which it en- circles on the north by its business quar- ter, rising beyond and rather abruptly to a lofty terrace, where the quiet and gratefully shaded streets are filled with dainty cottages and handsome mansions. Providence was once a very important commercial depot, its rich ships crossing all seas, and at the present day the city is equally distinguished for its manufac- turing and commercial enterprise. In Pkotidence.] RHODE ISLAND. [Rocky Point. the former department of human achieve- ment it early took the lead, which it still keeps, the first cotton-mill which was built in America being still in use, in its suburban village of Pawtucket, and some of the heaviest mills and printr works of the Union being now in opera- tion within its limits. It has also exten- sive manufactories of machinery and jewelry. The workshops of the Ameri- can Screw Company are the best appoint- ed of their kind in the country. The total capital invested here in manufac- tures is upward of $16,000,000. Providence is the seat of Brown Uni- vcr&iiy^ one of the best educational estab- lishments in America. It was founded in Warren, Rhode Island, in 1*764, and re- moved to Providence in 17*70. Its libra- ry is very large and valuable, and is remarkably rich in rare and costly works. R. A. Guild, librarian. Rhode Island Hospital, now progress- ing toward completion in the south- western suburb, will be one of the finest structures in the State. The entire cost, including grounds, will exceed a quarter million of dollars. 27ie Aihenceum has a fine reading- room, and a collection of 29,000 books. T. D. Hedges, librarian. The Providence Historiccd Society, incorporated 1822, has a library of 4,000 volumes. The Butler Hospital for the Insane, upon the banks of Seekonk River, is an admirable in- stitution, occupying large and imposing edifices. In the same part of the city, and lying also upon the Seekonk River, is the Swan Point Cemetery, a spot of great rural beauty. There are upward of 60 public schools in Providence, in which instruction is given to between eight and nine thousand pupils. The Dexter Asy- lum for the Poor stands upon an elevated range of land east of the river. In the same vicinage is the yearly meeting boarding-school, belonging to the Society :of Priends. The Reform School occupies the large mansion, in the southeast part lof the city, formerly known as the Tock- iwotton House. The Home for Aged i Women and the Ghildreyi's Pi'iend Society are worthy a visit. The Cvstom-House (Post-Office, and United States Courts) is a handsome granite structure, and one of the principal architectural ornaments of the city. The railroad depot, some of the banks, and many of the churches of Providence, are imposing structures. The railways diverging from Providence are the Providence and Worcester, 43 miles, to Worcester, Mass. ; Hartford, Providence, and FishJcill, 123 miles, to Waterbury, Conn. ; Boston and Prov- idence, and Stoyiington and Providence, 62 miles, to New London (see Routes from Boston), and the Providence, Warren, and Bristol. What Cheer Rock. — Upon the immediate edge of the city, on the shore of a charming bay in the Seekonk River, stands the famous What Cheer Rock, where the founder of the city, Roger WiUiams, landed from the Massachusetts side, to make the first settlement here. At HiinVs Mill, three or four miles distant, is a beautiful brook with a pict- uresque little cascade, a drive to which is among the morning or evening pleasures of the Providence people and their guests. Vue de VEau is the name of a picturesque and spacious summer hotel, perched upon a high terrace four miles below the city, overlooking the bay and its beauties for many miles around. Gaspee Point, below, upon the oppo- site shore of the Narraganset, was the scene of an exploit during the Revolu- tion. Some citizens of Providence, after adroitly beguiling an obnoxious British revenue craft upon the treacherous bar, stole down by boats in the night and set- tled her business by burning her to the water's edge. Il,©c3»:y S*oiB!Lt, equidistant be- tween Providence and Newport, is an attractive summer retreat, among shady groves and rocky glens, upon the west shore of the bay. In summer time boats ply twice a day on excursion trips from Providence to various rural points down the bay, charging 50 cents only for the round trip. Rocky Point is the most favored of all these rural recesses. Thou- sands visit it in the course of the sea- son, and feast upon delicious clams, just drawn from the water, and roasted on the shore in heated seaweed, upon true and orthodox "clam-bake" principles. Let no visitor to Providence fail to eat clams and chowder at Rocky Point, even if he should never eat again. Here is a good hotel with good bathing-houses attached, 11 JS^EWPORT.] RHODE ISLAND. [Newport. and a tower 170 feet high, from which is a charming view of the bay and land. Marked Rock is another famous excur- sion place, a few miles higher up the bay. It is reached in 40 minutes from Providence by boat. The towns of War- ren and Bristol, across the bay, are each worthy of a visit. They may both be reached several times a day from Provi- dence, via the Warren and Bristol Rail- road. Mount Hope, the famous home of the renowned King Philip, the last of theWam- panoags, is just below Bristol, upon Mount Hope Bay, an arm of the Niirraganset on the east. From the crown of this pictu- resque height is beheld a fine panorama of the beautiful Rhode Island waters. Upon the shore of Mount Hope Bay, op- posite, is the busy manufacturing town of Fall River (see Index). Off on our right, as we still descend toward the sea, is Greenwich, and near by it the birth- place and home of General Nathaniel Greene, the Revolutionary hero ; and just below is the township and (lying inland) the village of Kingston. In this neigh- borhood or.ce stood the old suufi-mill in which Gilbert Stuart, the famous Amer- ican painter, was born. Prescotfs Headquarters is a spot of Revolutionary interest on the western shore of the large island, filling the lower part of the bay," after which the State is named. The routes from Providence aud vicin- ity to New York and Boston are numer- ous. That to New York by the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill, and Neiv York and New Haven Railways, 162 miles, is the most expeditious ; that by the boats of the Fall River line, via Newport, the most pleasant. To Boston (43 miles), by the Boston and Providence Railway. N c '^v p © r 1 . — HoTKLS, the Ocean House, Touro Street, the most fashion- able and most delightfully situated ; the Fillmore, i\\Q Aquidneck, and United States. One daily newspaper {JSfews), and the Mercury, the oldest weekly newspaper but one in the United States, are publish- ed in Newport. Excellent photographic views of the town and objects of interest may be had of Mr. J. Appleby Williams. His gallery is on Lower Touro Street, in the vicinity of the Ocean House. Route. — From New York (Pier No. 78 28, North River), at 5 p. m., daily, in the superb steamers of the Fall River line. From Boston, by the Old Colony and Newport Raibvay, via Taunton (07 miles) ; or by rail to Providence, and thence by boat down Narraganset Bay. If Newport were not, as it is, the most elegant and fashionable of all American watering-places, its topographical beau- ties, its ancient commercial importance, and its many interesting historical asso- ciations, would yet claim for it distin- guished mention in these pages. The approach seaward is charming. Coming in from the sea round Point Judith, a few miles brings the traveller into the waters of the Narraganset Bay, where he passes between Fort Wolcott, on Goat Island, and the stronghold oi Fort Adams, upon Brenton Point on the right, and en- ters the harbor of the ancient town, once among the commercial capitals of the Union. As late as 1769 Newport ex- ceeded New York in the extent of her foreign aud domestic commerce. In the Revolution, the British long held posses- sion of the place, during which time, and at their departure (1779), it became al- most desolate. Before leaving, they de- stroyed 480 buildings, burned the light- house, cut down all the ornamental and fruit trees, broke up the wharfs, used the churches for riding-schools and the State House for a hospital, and carried off the church bells and the town records to New York ; disasters which reduced the popu- lation from 12,000 to 4,000. But the in- cidents of this period have left some pleasant memories for the present day, and remembrances of the fame of Com- modore Perry, the gallant commander on Lake Erie, who was born in Narragan- set, across the bay, and whose remains lie now in Newport ; of the residence of Rochambeau, and other brave officers of the French fleet, and of the visits of Gen- eral Washington, and the fetes given in his lionor ; the venerable buildings asso- ciated with all these incidents being still to be seen. Newport was settled ui 1637, and incorporated in 1700. Pocasset, or Portsmouth, at the northern extremity of the island, had been settled the year previous. The old town lies near the water ; but of late years, since the place has become popular as a summer resi- Newport.] RHODE ISLAND. [WOONSOCKET. dence, a new erty of charming villas and sumptuous mansions has sprung up, ex- tending far along upon the terraces which overlook the sea. Of the old build- ings, and of those which belong to New- port per se, instead of in its character of a watering-place, are the ancient State House (for Newport is a semi-capital of Rhode Island), the Redwood Library ^uAAthence- um, the Old Stone Mill, said to have been the property of Governor Benedict Ar- nold, built in 1'726 ; Tammany Hall In- stltitte, Trinity Church, the Vernon fam- ily mansion, the Perry monument. Com- modore Perry''s house, built in 1763, and long known as the " Granary ; " the forti- fications in the harbor, Fort Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dump- lings. Fort Adams, on Brenton's Point, is one of the largest works in the United States. It mounts four hundred and sixty guns. The chief picturesque attractions of the town and its immediate vicinity are the fine ocean-shores, known as the First, the Second, and the Third Beach. It is the First, which is chiefly used as a bathing-ground by the Newport guests. It is half a mile from the Ocean and Fillmore Houses. Stages run during bathing hours. At the Second Beach are the famous rocks called Ptijyator?/, and the Hanging liochs, within whose shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his "Minute Philosopher." . The Glen and the Spouting Cave are charming places to ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond, the largest sheet of spring water on the island, is easily reached from Spouting Cave. "Briglit and queen-like the array Of lilies in their crystal bed ; Like chalices for Beauty's lip, Their snowy cones half open lie. The dew-drops of the morn to sip, But closed to day's obtrusive eye." The waters of this pond swarm with perch. Newport was the birthplace of the gifted miniature painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity may be seen in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made two copies of his great Wash- ington picture for Rhode Island, one of which may be seen in the State House at Newport, and the other in that at Providence. Among the interesting rel- ics to be found in the town are : Frank- lin's printing-press, imported by James Franldin in 1720. It is in the office of the Newport Mercury, established in 1758. Upon this press the first news- paper issued (1732) was printed.- The Chair of State, in which Benedict Ar- nold sat at the reception of the char- ter in 1663 is in the possession of the Gould family. The First Baptist Church, founded in 1638, and claimed as the old- est church in Rhode Island, is worthy a visit. The bell in the tower weighs half a ton. The American Steamboat Com- pany's steamers, "Bay Queen," Captain Allen ; and " City of Newport," Captain Kelley, make excursions daily (Sundays excepted) between Providence, Rocky Point, and Newport. Fares, 50 cents and 75 cents. Distances. — To Providence, 30 miles; to Fall River, 18 ; Point Judith. 15 ; Block Island, 30. Valley Falls, six miles north of Provi- dence, on the Worcester Railway, con- tains several large cotton-mills. ''W o©iasoclis:et. 16 miles from Providence, is a flourishfeig manufactur- ing town (well worthy a visit from those interested in the manufacture of cotton goods), famous for its cotton manufac- tories, of which there are upward of 20. Woonsocket comprises the villages of Beron, Hamlet, Jencksville, Globe, and Union. Blackstone, two miles beyond Woonsocket, is an extensive manufactur- ing point. The Blackstone Manufactur- ing Company alone produce ten miUion yards of cotton cloth annually. - 79 MASSACnOSETTS.1 MASSACHUSETTS. [Massachusetts. MASSACHUSETTS. Massachusetts, one of the original thirteen States, and the most populous and wealthy of the New England or East- ern States, is bounded on the north b.v New Hampshire and Vermont ; east by the Atlantic Oeea-n ; south by Connecticut and Ehode Island, and west by New York. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 145 miles, and its mean breadth 70 miles. It embraces 4,992,000 acres, and is divided into 14 counties. The landscape here is of varied charac- ter, often strikingly beautiful, embracing not a few of the most famous scenes in the Union. In the southeastern part of the State the surface is fiat and sandy, though the sea-coast is, in many places, very bold, and charmingly varied with fine pictures of rocky bluff aud cliff. It abounds in admirable summer resorts, where the lovers of sea-breezes and bath- ing may find every means and appliance for comfort and' pleasure. In the eastern and central portions, the physical aspect of the country, though agreeably diversi- fied, is excelled in attraction by the taste and architectural beauty of its numerous cities, villages, and smiling homesteads, nowhere so abundant and so interesting as here. The Green Mountains traverse the western portion of Massachusetts in two ridges, lying some 25 miles apart, M'ith picturesque valley lands between. Here are the favorite summer resorts of Berkshire, and other parts of the Hou- satonic region. Saddle Mountain, 3,505 feet high, is a spur of the most western of the two ridges we have mentioned, known as the Taconic or the Taugkannic hills. Mount Washington, another fine peak of this line, has an altitude of 2,624 feet. It rises in the exti-eme southern corner 80 of the State, while Saddle Mountain stands as an outpost in the northwest angle. The more eastern of the two liill- rauges here is called the Hoosic Eidge. Noble isolated mountain peaks overlook the winding waters and valleys of the Connecticut — some of them, though not of remarkable altitude, commanding scenes of wondrous interest, as Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom, near North- ampton. North of the middle of the State is the Wachusett Mountain, with an elevation of 2,018 feet. On Hudson's Brook, in Adams County, there is found a remarkable natural bridge, 50 feet high, spanning a limestone ravine 500 feet in length. In New Marlborough, the tourist will see a singular rock poised with such marvellous art that a finger can move it ; and on Earmuigton Eiver, in Saudisfield, he will delight himself with the precipices, 300 feet high, known as the Hanging Mountain. Massachusetts has some valuable mineral springs, though none of them are places of gen- eral resort. In Hopkinton, mineral waters impregnated with carbonic acid, and carbonates of iron and lime; in Winchendon, a chalybeate spring, and one in Shutesbury, containing muriate of lime. But we need not make further mention of those points of interest here, as we shall have occasion to visit them all, under the head of one or other of the group of New England States, as we fol- low the network of routes by which they may be reached. Though small in area, compared with some other t-tates of the Union, Massachusetts is yc-t, in all the qualities which make national fame, one of the gi'catest of them all. Nowhere arc there records of historical incident of k Routes.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. greater interest ; nowhere a more advanced social position, or a greater intellect- ual attainment ; nowhere a nobler spirit of commercial enterprise ; nowhere a more inventive genius or a more indom- itable industry. The history of the State began with tlie landing of the Pilgrim Fathers from the May Flower at Plymouth, on the memorable 22d of December, 1620. The most memorable events of the Kei^olutionary struggle within the State were the battles of Lexington and Bun- ker Hill. During the late RebelHon (1861-'65), Massachusetts took a decided and pa- triotic stand, and furnished upward of 50,000 men to the Union forces. Manu- factures rank all other productive inter- ests of the State in extent and value. The manufacturing companies, having agencies in Boston, number over 280. (See list in Boston City Directory, page 52*7.) Boston is the capital and chief commercial city of the State. Population in 1860, 1,231,803. ROUTES TO BOSTON' FROM NEW TOUK Route 1. Railway — from Fourth Av- enue, corner of Twenty-seventh. Street, via New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, and Worcester, 236 miles, or by the Shore Line, via New Haven, New London, Stoniugton, and Providence, 231 miles, a pleasant and very speedy route to the latter city. Route 2. Slonington — by steamer, daily, from pier No. 18 North River (Cortland Street), to Stonington; thence by railway, via Providence, R. I. Route 3. Fall River — steamer, daily, at 5 p. M., from pier No. 3 North River, via Newport, R. L ; thence by Old Colony and Neioport Railway. Route 4. Nor- ivleh Line — steamer, daily, from pier No. ;>9 North River, to New London, Conn. ; thence by railway, via Norwich, Ct., and Worcester, Mass. The most expeditious routes between New York and Boston are those we have marked No. 1, Rail- way Route — geiierally known as the New York and New Haven line. Time be- tween eight and nine hours. All the other routes, by steamboat and railway, occupy the night, starting about 5 p. m.. and arriving by dawn next day. The New Haven route (No. 1), is upon tlie New York and New Haven road for "76 miles, to New Haven, along the south line of the State of Connecticut, near the shore of Long Island Sound. To Williams Bridge, 13 miles from New York, the track is the same as that of the Harlem Railroad to Albany. At Fordham, 12 miles from the city, is located Jerome Park and the fine new Course of the American Jockey Club. Leaving Williams Bridge, we pass the pretty suburban villages of New Rochelle, Mamaroneck, Rye, and Port Chester, and reach Stamford, 3*7 miles from New York. The Shore Line leaves this route at New Haven, and extends through New London, Stonington, and Provi- dence. BOSTON AND VICINITY. Hotels. — The most fashionable and best-kept houses are the Revere, on Bow- doin Square, and the Tremont, on Tre- mont Street, both under the able man- agement of Messrs. Bingham, Wrisley & Co. ; the American House, in Hanover Street, is centrally located, and well con- ducted, and has upward of 300 rooms ; the United Slates Hotel, immediately op- l^osite the New York and New Haven depot, is a convenient and well-appoint- ed house, and Parker^s, in School Street, is conducted on the European plan. The restaurant attached to this house is one of the best in the country. The Cornhill Coffee House (Young's) in Waaliington Street, is also a well-appointed and much frequented establishment. The cliarges at the leading hotels are %i per day. There are also several clubs, admission to which is obtained by members' intro- duction. The Union is the largest and best. The Refectories and Cafes of Charles Copeland, Tremont Row, and of Southmayd, corner Bromfield Street, are among the best in the' city. Conveyances, etc. — The means of" get- ting about " in Boston are quite as plen- tiful, and generally better, as well as cheaper, than in most American cities. Scollay^s Building, corner Tremont and Court Streets, Bowdoin Square, Horticultu- ral Hall, on Tremont Street, near the Tre- 81 Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. mont Housf, and No. 1 2 Broad Street, are the principal starting-points for the city railway ears. We append a list of the main car-lines and the hack-fares. Tremont Street and Depots. — From Scollay's Building, through Court to jrreen, Leverett, and Causeway Streets, jy the Lowell, Eastern, and Eitchburg Hailroad Stations, and return by a differ- jnt route. East Boston and Camden Street. — From Scollay's Building to Hanover, Pleet, and Commercial Streets, across East Boston Ferry, through Meridian street to Chelsea ; return by a different "oute. Providence Dejjot and Chelsea Ferry. —From Pi'ovidence Dej^ot, Pleasant street, through Boylston, Tremont, Court, ilanover, Richmond, North, and Com- nercial Streets, to Chelsea Ferry ; return jy a different route. Boston and Roxhnry. — The Norfolk louse, Warren and Tremont Streets line )f cars leave station at Scollay's Build- ng, and reach Roxbury through Harrison ivenue and Washington Street or Tre- nont Street. The Mount Pleasant, Dorchester (via jlrove Hall), Brookline, Jamaica Plain, ^'orest Hills, and Eggleston Square cars eave from corner of Tremont and Mont- gomery Place, and reach Roxbury lirough the same routes as above. The " Meeting-house Hill and Mount Bowdoin Branch " cars leave corner of J'edei'al and Summer Streets. The Dorchester and Milton and Quincy iars run from the corner of Broad and 5tate Streets. South Boston and City Point Cars leave ?collay's Building, passing the Worcester md Old Colony Railway Depots. Charlestown^ Somerville, and Medford ;ars run from Scollay's Building, across ]harlestown Bridge, and return via War- den Bridge. (Route to Bunker Hill.) Lynn and Chelsea {via Charlestown) !ars leave Scollay's Building and 71 jornhill, running across Charlestown Bridge, and returning via Warren Bridge. Cambridge and Boston. — Harvard square, Prospect Street, Broadway, and '^orth Avenue cars leave Bowdoin Square, >pposite Revere House, running across Cambridge Bridge ; return the same way. 82 Mount Auhcrn, Brighton, Neioton Cor- ner,West Cambridge and Waierlown, same as above. Stages from Watertown for Waltham every alternate hour. East Cambridge and Boston. — Cam- bridge Street and East Cambridge cars leave Bowdoin Square, opposite Revere House, and pass over Craigie's Bridge to East Cambridge, and return. (See also Railway Stations.) , Fares. — Carriage and hack fares are regulated by law as follows : For one or more adult passengers within the city proper, or from one place to another within the limits of South Boston, or of East Boston, each 50 cents. Between the hours of 1 1 p. m. and 7 A. M., the fare for one adult passenger $1. For two or more such passengers, each 50 cents. For one adult passenger, from any part of the city proper, to either South Boston or East Boston, or from East Bos- ton or South Boston to the city proper, $1. For two or more such passengers be- tween said points, each 75 cents. For children between four and twelve years of age, when accompanied by an adult, one-half of the above sums ; and for children under four years of age, when -ftccompanied by an adult, no charge is made. Car fares are 6 cents within the city. Exchange (transfer) tickets 6 cents ad- ditional. Baggage. — One trunk, valise, box, bundle, carpet-bag, basket, or other ar- ticle used in travelling, shall be free of charge ; but for each additional trunk or other such articles 5 cents shall be paid. Complaints of overcharges should be made to R. C. Marsh, Superintendent of Hacks, City Hall. The Soldiers Messenger Corps, estali- lished in 1865, deliver small packages, letters, &c., promptly. The Messengers wear scarlet caps. They will generally be found round the principal hotels. Tariff of Charges, 15 to 20 cents in the city, 25 cents outside. Blostosa is one of the most interesting of the great American cities, not only on account of its thrilling traditionary and historical associations, dating from the ^ Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. earliest days of the discovery and coloni- zation of the western continent, through all the trials and triumphs of the child- hood, youth, and manhood of the Repub- lic — but for its dauntless public enter- prise, and its high social culture ; for its great educational and literary facilities ; for its numerous and admirable benevo- lent establishments ; for its elegant public and private architecture, and for the sur- passing natural beauty of its suburban landscape. Boston is divided into three sections — Boston Proper, East and South Boston. The old city is built upon a peninsula of some '700 acres, very uneven in surface, and rising at three different points into an eminence, one of which is 138 feet above the sea. The Indian name of this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning " Living Fountain." It was called by the earlier inhabitants Tremont or Trimount, its sobriquet at the present day. The name of Boston was bestowed on it in honor of the Rev. John Cotton, who came hither from Boston in England. The first white inhabitant of this peninsula, now covered by Boston proper, was the Rev. John Blackstone. Here he lived all alone until John Winthrop — afterward the first governor of Massachusetts— came across the river from Charlestown, where he had dwelt with some fellow-emigrants for a short time. About 1635, Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now populous penin- sula for £30, and removed to Rhode Island. The first church was built in 1632; the first wharf in 1673. Four years later a postmaster was appointed, and in 1*704 (April 24), the first newspaper, called the Boston News-Letter^ was published. The city was incorporated February 23, 1822, with a population of 45,000. It is divided into 12 wards, and contains a population of 192,324. Boston Harbor is large, and contains numerous islands, some of which are well worth visiting. (See Fortifications.) A narrow isthmus, which is now called the " Neck," joins the peninsula of Old Boston to the main-land on the south, where is now the suburb of Roxbury. Boston has, indeed, been .appropriately called the "mountain city in the sea." (See Bridges, etc.) 8outli Boston, formerly part of Dor- chester, extends some two miles along the south side of the harbor, from Old Bos- ton to Fort Inderpendeiice. Near the centre, and two miles from the State House, are Dorchester Heights, memora- ble as having been occupied and forti- fied by Washington in anticipation of an attack by the British, March 4, 1*776. A fine view of the city, of the vicinity, and the sea, may be obtained from these Heights. Here, too, on Telegraph Hill, is a large reservoir of the Boston water- works. The Ferhins' Bistitute (Blind Asylum) is worthy a visit. Admission on Saturday mornings. Permits granted at 20 Bromfield Street. Independeiwe Square contains 6 1-4 acres. Fast Boston (the "Island Ward") is in the western part of Noddle's Island. It was the homestead of Samuel Mave- rick, while John Blackstone was sole monarch of the peninsula, 1630. Here is the wharf of the Cunard steamers, 1,000 feet long. East Boston is con- nected by two ferries with the city proper. It is the terminus of the Grand Junction Railroad. Chelsea is near by. The principal sights in and round Boston are Bunker Hill Monument, Faneuil Hall, Boston Common, the Public Garden, State the House, Mount Auburn, and Harvard University Buildings. The Great Organ, the City Hospital, the City Hall, and one or two other public build- ings, are worth visiting. The streets are irregular and generally narrow. Wash- ingtou and Tremont Streets are the principal thoroughfares. The suburban towns and villages of Cambridge, Rox- bury, Charlestown, Chelsea, Brookline, and Dorchester, are chiefly occupied as the residences of Boston merchants. They contain an aggregate population of 114,332. Boston is well supplied v/ith water from Cochituate Lake, 3^ miles long, "situate in Framingham and Natick Townships, 12 miles from the city. The whole cost of the public water- works amounts thus far to seven millions of doUars. Squares, Monuments, etc. — Boston Cotnmon is a large and charming public ground in a central portion of the city proper. The fence enclosing it is 1^ miles in length. It contains nearly 50 aci'es, of every variety of surface, with inviting walks, grassy lawns, and grand 83 JOSTON.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. ild trees. It is tlie pride of the city, nd is Imicli admired by strangers. A lOet " to the manor born " thus apostro- (hizcs this famous ground and its noble ree : When first from mother Earth you sprung, Ere Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare sung. Or Puritans had come among The savages to loose each tongue In psalms and prayers, These forty acres, more or less, Now gayly clothed in Nature's dress. Where Yankees walk, and brag, and guess, Was but a " howling wilderness " Of wolves and bears. A pond and fountain, the site of the meient " Frog Pond," sometimes called ]ochituate Lake, occupy a central point n the grounds, overlooked by Beacon, Premont, Boyleston, and Park Streets, >n which stand many of the old man- ions of the place. On the upper corner, he massive, dome-surmounted walls of he State Capitol are seen to great ad- 'antage. The Old Elm near the pond s an object of much interest. It is be- ieved to have existed before the settle- aent of the city, having attained its full growth in 1*722. It was nearly destroyed )y a storm in 1832. Since 1854 it has )een protected by an iron fence. Majestic tree! What wondrous changes have you seen Since j^ou put forth your primal green And tender shoot ; Three hundi-ed years your life has spanned. Yet calm, serene, erect you stand. Of great renown throughout the land. Braced up with many an iron band. And showing marks of Time's hard hand From crown to root. And you shall sec much more beside, Ere to your root, old Boston's pride. The axe is laid. And long, I trust, the time will be, Ere mayor and council sit on thee, And find with unanimity That you're decayed; For you are still quite hale and stanch, Thougli here and there perhaps a branch Is slightly rotten ; And you will stand aild hold your sway When he who pens this rhyme to-day Shall mingle with the common clay, And be forgotten. The Common drops from Beacon Street, ,he southern declivity of Beacon Hill, by a 84 gentle descent to Charles Piver. Ad- johijng the Common, fronting on Charles Street, is the Public Garden. Tliis em- braces 24 acres, and is ornamented with walks, ponds, parterres of flowers, and a conservatory. While in this vicinity the pedestrian tourist will be repaid by a visit to the new streets and buildings on what is called the '"Back Bay." Arlington Street and Commonwealth Avenue are handsome promenades. A statue to Hamilton, of granite, stands on the lat- ter. The new buildings of the Societies of Natural History and Technology are located here. Blaclstone Square and Franklin Square are small but ornamen- tal grounds on Washington Street, passed on the way to Roxbury and the Cemetery of Forest Hills. Concord^ Chester, and Fort Hill Squares are smaller public grounds. The Riverside TroUiiig Park, 3 miles from the city, is reached by the Western Avenue. Pdblir BtJiLDiNGS, ETC.— Faneuil Hall. This famous edifice, called the " Cradle of Liberty," is in "Faneuil Hall Square," its main entrance being upon Merchants' Row East. It is 125 years old, and is an object of deep interest to Americans. Here the fathers of the Revolution met to harangue the people on the events of that stirring period ; and often since that time the great men of the State and na- tion have made its v/alls resound with their eloquence. It was presented to the city by Peter Faneuil, a distinguished merchant, who, on the 4th of July, 1'740, made an offer, in a town-meeting, to build a market-house. The building was be- gun the following year, and finished in 1*742. The douor so far exceeded his promise, as to erect a spacious and beaii- tifid Town Hall over it and several other convenient rooms. The dimensions of the original building were 100 by 40. De- stroyed by fire in 1*761, it was rebuilt in 1*763, and enlarged to its present dimen- sions in 1805. A full-length portrait of the founder, together with the pictures of Washington, by Stuart, and of Webster, by Hcaley, occupy places upon the west wall. Portraits of President Lincoln, by Ames, and of Governor Andrew, by Hunt, are also to be seen. The pictures, regarded either as likenesses or works of art, are hardly worthy the places they oc- Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. cupy. Faneuil Hall Market, to the east of the Hall, is a substantial and imposing granite edifice. It was commenced, Au- gust 20, 1824, is 585 feet in length, and covers an area of 2*7,000 feet. Quiucy Hall, over the market, is a handsome apartment, surmounted by a dome. Bunker Hill Monument, commemora- tive of the eventful battle fought on the spot, is in CharlestowD, occupying the site of the old redoubt on Breed's Hill. The observatory at the top of this structure commands a magnificent view, embracing a wide extent of laud and water scenery. The journey up is somewhat tedious, trav- ersing nearly 300 steps. The dedication of this monument took place June 17, 1843, in the presence of President Tyler and cabinet. On the hill is a stons mark- ing the spot where Warren fell. Horse cars run from the head of Tremont Street to the monument. Near at hand, extend- ing between the mouths of the Charles and Mystic Rivers, and embracing about 100 acres in extent, is the United States Na.vy Yard. It contains among other things a rope-walk, the longest in the country. The Dry Dock, opened June 24, 1833, is 341 feet long, ' and cost $675,000. The State Prison in Charles- town is worth visiting. In the old grave- yard adjoining the prison is the monu- ment to John Harvard, It is of granite 15 feet high, and was erected September 26, 1828,' by the graduates of the Har- vard University. The State House occixpies a command- ing site on the summit of Beacon Hill, overlooking the " Common." Ac- cess by Beacon and Park Streets. Its foundation is 110 feet above the level of the sea. Length, 1*73 feet; breadth, 61. The edifice was commenced July 4, I'ZOo, and completed in 1Y98, at a cost of $133,- 330. It was enlarged in 1855 at a co5t of .$243,204. On the entrance floor (Doric Hall) is to be seen Chantrey's skitue of Washington. Near by is the staircase leading to the dome, where visitors are required to register their names, and from the top of which is ob- tained a fine view of the city, the bay, with its islands, and the suburban towns. Bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Maun occupy places on the east front facing the Common. In the rotunda of the building is a colleciion of flags car- ried by the State troops in the Rebellion of 1861-'65, and two brass cannon cap- tured in the war of 1812. The tablets on the eastern wall of this apartment are interesting. The library contains 25,000 volumes. The Old State House, at the head of State Street, is an object of considerable interest. Here more than a century ago the " Great and General Court of Massa- chusetts" sat. The Custom-House is well located at the foot of State Street, between the head of Long and Central Wharves. The foundation rests on 3,000 piles. It was commenced in 183*7 and finished in 1849, at a cost of $1,000,000. It is cruciform, constructed of granite, and has an ex- treme length of 140 feet, and' breadth 95 feet. The longest arms of the cross arc 75 feet wide, and the shortest 67 feet, the opposite fronts and ends being all alike. The portico on either front is sup- ported by six fluted Doric columns, 32 feet high, and weighing each 42 tons. The entire height to the top of the dome is 90 feet. A fine view of the harbor and bay is had from the roof. The Exchange, or Merchants'' Exchange, 55 State Street, was completed in the fall of 1842, at a cost of $175,000. It is 70 feet high and 250 feet deep, covering about 13,000 feet of ground. The front is built of Quincy granite, with four pilas- ters, each 45 feet high, and weighing 55 tons each. The roof is of wrought iron, and covered with galvanized sheet iron ; and all the principal staircases are fire- proof, being constructed of stone and iron. The centre of the basement story is occupied by the Post Office. The great central hall, a magnificent room, is 58 by 80 feet, having 18 beautiful columns in imitation of Sienna marble, with Corin- thian capitals, and a skylight of colored glass, finished in the most ornamental manner. This room is used for the mer- chants' exchange and subscribers' read- ing-room. The Court-House is a fine building in Court Square, fronting on Court Street. It is built of Quincy granite, and is 185 feet long by 50 feet wide. The corner stone was laid, September, 1833. In this building are held the Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. United States, State, County, City, Pro- bate, and rolice Courts. In the base- ment is the City Lock-up or " Tombs." In the rear of the Court-House are two large brick buildings knovrn as Massa- climcUs Block and Barristers' Hall. The U. S. Circuit and District Courts are held at No. 140 Tremont Street. The City Hall, fronting on School Street, near the Court-House is a stately edifice, though seen to poor advantage in that con- fined locality. It is of New Hampshire granite. The corner stcne was laid Decem- ber 22, 1862, and the building dedicated, September 17, 1865. Bryant & Gilman, architects. Cost, $505,191. A colossal bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin, who was a native of Boston, erected Septem- ber, 1856, stands in front of the building. This fine work was modelled by R. B. Greenough, brother of the distinguished sculptor, Horatio Greenough. The head- quarters of the Chief of Police and Chief Engineer of the Fire Department are in the City Hall. The Massachusetts General Hospital, in- corporated 1811, covers an area of four acres on Charles River, between Allen and Bridge Streets. It is constructed of Chehnsford granite. Nearby, at the foot of Bridge Street, is the Massachusetts Medical College, attached to Harvard College. The Warren Analorniccd Cab- inet and Mediccd Library are worth visit- ing. In the laboratory of this building, the fatal altercation between Professor Webster and Dr. Parkman occurred. The City Hospital is a conspicuous granite edifice, surmounted by a lofty dome. It stands on Harrison Avenue, opposite Worcester Square, and cost .$408,844, exclusive of the grounds. The Masonic Temple completed 1866, is a handsome granite structure of six stories. It occupies a prominent loccde at the corner of Tremont and Boyleston Streets, and is generally admired. The old Masonic Temple, dedicated May 30, 1832, stands further up Tremont Street, on the site of the old Washington Garden. It is now used for the purposes of the United States Courts. Ordway Hall, in Province House Court, in provincial times, was the residence of the Colonial Governors. Horticultural Hall, in Tre- mont Street, between Bromfield Street 86 and Montgomery Place, is an omamental granite Gothic building lately erected, much admired for its chaste architect- ural design and finish. The City Jail on Charles Street, near the Medical College, is an octagonal-shaped granite structure, with four wings, conducted on the " Au- burn plan." The Beacon Hill Reservoir, City Waterworks, completed in 1849, is a massive granite structure, 200 feet long and 66 feet high, fronting on Derne Street. Literary AND Scientific Institutions. Boston so long and highly distinguished for its literary character, as to have won the name of the " Athens of America," has, beside its innumerable libraries and institutions of learning, more than 100 periodical publications and newspapers, dealing with all themes of study, and all shades of opinion and inquiry. The Boston Public Library, instituted in 1852, is on Boylston Street, facing the Common, near Tremont Street. The present building was erected in 1856, from designs by Charles Kirby, at a cost of $250,000. It possesses, at this time, about 130,000 volumes. Charles C. Jewett, Superin- tendent ; Edward Capen, Librarian. The Boston Athcnceum occupies an imposing edifice of Paterson freestone, in the Pal- ladian style, on Beacon near Tremont Street. It was incorporated in 1807, and is one of the best endowed literary estab- lishments in the world. There are in the library 90,000 volumes, and an extensive collection of tracts. The Athenasum possesses a fine gallery of paintings (third story), in connection with which the annual displays of art are made. The sculpture gallery, 80 feet long, in the first storj', contains several fine specimens of art. Tickets to picture and sculpture gal- leries, 25 cents. Ihe Afercardile Library, founded 1820, is at 16 Summer Street, corner of Hawley. It has 19,000 volumes and a lecture hall. Spacious reading rooms are attached to the Pidilic, Mer- cantile, and Athcnceum Libraries, which are free to strangers. The other reading rooms of the city are the Merchants'' Ex- change, 55 State, Young Men's Christian Association, 5 Tremont Temple ; the Church, 10 Studio building, and the New Church, 21 Bromfield Street. The Massa- chusetts Historical Society, 30 Tremont Street, organized in 1791, possesses 12,000 Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. volumes, and many valuable manuscripts, coins, charts, maps, etc. The Amer- ican Academy of ArU and Sciences, one of the oldest societies of the kind in the country (I'ZSO), has 20,000 volumes. It occupies an apartment in the Athenaj- um. Besides these libraries, Boston has many others ; as, the Stale Library, the Social Law Library, General Theological Library, 41 Tremont Street, organized April 20, 1800, etc. The Lowell Iiisiitnte, founded by John Lowell, Jr., Washing- ton Street, provides for regular courses of free lectures upon natural and re- vealed religion, and many scientific and art topics. We may mention, also, among the foremost literary, scientific, and art societies of the city, the Tnstitute of Tech- nology, and the Natural History Society, on Berlveley and Boylston Streets (Ad- mission, Wed. and Sat. aftei'noons, free). The La Fresnaye Collection of birds in the Museum of Natural History numbers 8,989 specimens. The School of Tech- nology is not yet complete. It is mod- elled on the plan of the Conservatoire des Aj'is et Ifetiers, and the IScole Centrcde, of Paris, and, when finished, will embrace three departments, to be respectively known as the "Society of Arts," "Mu- seum of Industrial Art and Science," and " School of Science and Art." The Amer- ican Statisticcd, the Musiecd, Educational, aud the Handel and Haydn Societies, 15 India Street, and the Boston Academy I of Music, are flourishing institutions. I! Many of the public schools of Boston are well worthy a visit from those in- ! terested in the cause of education. The Latin and English high schools on Bed- ford Street are the most prominent. The former was established in 1635, and the latter in 1821. There are 25 grammar and 49 primary schools in Boston, occu- pying 638,540 feet of ground, and cost- ing in the aggregate |2,988,260. The office of the Superintendent of Public Schools is in the City Hall. Harvard University. This venerable seat of learning is at Cambridge, three miles from the city of Boston. It was founded in 1638, by the Rev. John Har- ;. vard. The University embraces, besides its collegiate department, law, medical, and theological schools. The buildings are 15 in number, all located in Cambridge, except that of the medical school in North Grove Street, in Boston. Gore Hall, and University Hall, are handsome edifices. The former containing the li- brary, and the latter the chapel, lecture- rooms, etc. Holden Chapel contains the Anatomical Museum. The Observatory and telescope are worthy inspection. * Churches, etc. — The churches of the city are numerous, as might be expected of the home of the Purftans. They num- ber 114 — the Unitarians having the largest share. The following list em- braces those most conspicuous for their age, historical associations, or architec- ture. Christ Church, in Salem Street, is an ancient structure, having been erected in 1*722. Trinity Church, erected in 1*734, is at the corner of Summer and Hawley Streets. King''s Chapel, at the corner of Tremont and School Streets, is generally visited by strangers. It was founded in 1686. The present building is a plain granite sti-uctui-e, erected 1750-54. The stained glass windows over the altar, added in 1862, are much admired. (See Cemeteries.) Old South Church, at the corner of Washington and Milk Streets, is an object of much interest. It is of brick, was erected (1*730) on the site of the original church (16*70), which was of wood, and has one of the loftiest spires in the city. This church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes of '76, and was subsequently converted into a riding school for Burgoyne's troops. The Prince Library has- some valuable works. The. building opjoosite the church is said to mark the site of Franklin's birthplace. Brattle Street Church is an ancient look- ing Revolutionary structure, frequently visited by strangers. It was consecrated, July 25, 1773, and occupies the site of the old wooden structure, founded 1699. The " round shot " fired from the Ameri- can guns at Cambridge during the evacu- ation of Boston by the British, can be seen in the church walls. The late Ed- ward Everett, once presided over this church. St. FauVs Church, facing the Common, between Winter and West Streets, built in 1820, is of gray granite, 112 by 72 feet, in the Grceco-Ionic style. The pillars supporting the portico are of Potomac sandstone. Tremont Temple, used for devotional pui'poses, is on Tre- 87 Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. inont Street. The- large hall lias sittings for 3,000 people. Fark Street Churchy facing Tremoiit Street, uear the Common, foimded in 1809, has the highest spire in the city. Cemeteries. — Mount Auburn Cemete- ry, about a mile from Harvard University, and about four miles from Boston, by the road from Old Cambridge to Watertown, constitutes one of the sights of Boston, and should be seen by every visitor. It is the property of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, was consecrated September 24, 1831, and contains 140 acres. It is the oldest and by many considered the most beautiful of Amer- ican rural buryiug-places, embellished by landscape and horticultural art and taste, and many elegant and costly monuments. Cars run from the station in Bowdoin Square, via Cambridge (Har- vard College), every 15 minutes, during the day, and until half-past eleven o'clock at night. The gateway is of Quincy granite, and cost §10,000. Central, Maple, Chapel, Spruce, and other lead- ing avenues, afford a circuit of the entire grounds, with a view of the principal monuments. The Chapel, an ornament- ed Gothic edifice of granite, with stained glass windows, contains statues of Win- throp, Otis, John Adams, and Judge Story. The Toiver, 60 feet high, in the rear of the grounds, is 187 feet above Charles Eiver, and commands a wide and charm- ing view for many miles. It is reached by Central, Walnut, and Mountain Av- enues. Forest Fond and Dell Fond, and the numerous fountains, lakes, and ponds in different parts of the cemetery, form a novel and not altogether appro- priate feature of Mount Auburn. The Spurzhehn Monument and the Bowdiivh Statue, are in Central and Chapel Av- enues. Forest Hill, in West Roxbury, next to Mount Auburn, is most visited of the Boston cemeteries. It has an imposing entrance of 160 feet front on Scarborough Street. It was consecrated, June 28, 1848. A fine view is had from Siioiv Flal-e Cliff. Mount Hope Cemetery, in Yv^'cst Roxbury, was purchased by the city (ISS'Z), for |;35,000. Woodlawn, four miles north of Boston, and two miles from Chelsea, incorporat- es ed 1850, has m.any attractive features as a rural burying-ground. The gate-house is a Gothic structure, 56 feet high. Rock Tower commands a fine view of the Bay, islands, and sea. Granary Buryiny- Ground, adjoining Park Street Church, between Tremont and Beacon Streets, contains a monument to the parents of Franklin. It is of Quincy granite, 25 feet in height. The Cemetery attached to King's Chapel, at the corner of Tremont and School Streets, contains the remains of Johnson, the "Father of Boston," as he has been termed ; and of Governor John Winthrop. , Places op Amusement, etc. — The theatres and other places of popular amusement in Boston, though by no means numerous, are well conducted and much frequented. Boston Tlieatre, on Washington Street, is one of the best conducted add deserr- edly popular temples of the drama in the country. The audiences at this theatre are generally large and select. Boston Museum, on Tremont, between Court and School Streets, is a spacious edifice. (Curiosities and dramatic enter- tainments.) Howard Athencewn, Howard St., near Tremont Row, with sittings for 1,200 persons, occupies the site of the Millerite Tabernacle, destroyed by fire. Theatre Comique (Old " Aquarial Gar- den "), 240 Washington Street. Continentcd Tlieatre (Whitman's), Washington Street. Morris Brothers'' Opera House, stands on Washington, near Milk Street, on what was once the Province House Estate. Buckley's Serenaders, Summer Street, occupy the former "Post-office Building." Tremont Theatre, on Tremont Street, near the Common. Boston Music Hcdl, erected 1852, main entrance on Winter Street (Organ, &c.) This organ, built by G. F. Welcker, of Ludwigsburg, Germany, is believed to be the second largest instrument in the world. The elaborate cabinet-work is by the Brothers Herter, of New York. The entire cost was §80,000. Boston Athenceum, Beacon Street (Stat- uary and Paintings). Horticultural Hall, on Tremont Street, Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. is a beautiful edifice of dressed granite, much admired for its classic style and elegant proportions. The annual exhibi- tions of the " Massachusetts Horticultural Society " are held here. The Rooms of the Boston Chess Cluh are in Chauncey, corner Bedford Street ; open every weelc day and evening. Fortifications, etc. — The liarbor of Boston, as elsev/hei-e remarlied, is among the best and most spacious on the coast, and to the summer visitor affords one of the most striking features of the city. The most important and noteworthy fortified works in and around Boston are to be seen in a sail up or down tlie beautiful harbor. They are Forts Inde- pendence^ on Castle Island ; Fort Win- throp^ on Governor's Island, and Fort Warren, on George's Island. Deer {House of Industv}/, etc.), Long, Rains- ford, Spectacle, Gallop, and Thomp- son's Islands are also passed. A visit to these islands and defensive works consti- tutes one of the pleasantest features of the summer tourist's experience in Boston. Bridges, etc. — Seven bridges, most of them free, link Cambridge, Charlestown, Chelsea, and South Boston with the Pen- insula. These structures are among the peculiarities of the iilace, in their fashion, their number, and their length. The first one which was built was that over Charles River to Charlestown, 1,503 i'eet long. It was opened for travel, June 17, 1*780. The Old Cambridge Bridge, across the Charles River to Cambridge, 2,758 feet in length, with a causeway of 3,432 feet, was completed, 1793. The South Boston Bridge, which leads from the Neck to South Boston, is 1,550 ft. long. The Canal Bridge, between Boston and East Cam- bridge, is 2,796 feet, and from East Cam- bridge another bridge extends 1,820 feet, to Prison Point, Charlestown. Boston Free Bridge (Dover Street) to South Boston is 500 feet ; and Wa^^ren Bridge to Charles- town is 1,390 feet. Besides these bridges, a causeway of a mile and a half extends from the foot of Beacon Street to Sewell's Point, in Brookline. This causeway is built across the bay upon a substantial dam. Other roads lead into Boston over special bridges, connecting the city with the main as closely as if it were a part there- of. Thus the topography of Boston is quite anomalous as a " mountain city in the sea." Wharyes. — The wharves of Boston are among the finest in the United States, and to the commercial and shipping man are worth a visit. The principal are, Long, Central, India, and Commercial Wharves. Steamers for the several eastern ports leave these wharves daily. (See " Pack- ets," Boston Directory, p. 535.) Steam- ers for Halifax and Liverpool leave East Boston every alternate Wednesday. The Railway Stations in Boston are seven in number, and are generally acces- sible by one or other of the lines of street cars. Old Colony and Newport, on Kneeland Street, South End. Worcester (Hartford and Erie, Woon- socket Division), corner Beach and Lin- coln Streets, South End. Providence, Pleasant Street, foot of the Common. Boston and Maine, Haymarket Square, end of Union Street. Eastern, Causeway Street, near An- dover Street. Fitchburg, Causeway Street (near War- ren Bridge). Lowell, Causeway Street (near Lowell Street). The American Telegraph Company have branch offices at all the leading hotels for the convenience of guests. Their principal office in Boston is at 83 State Street. The offices of the Adams and American Express Companies are in Court Street. The principal Banks, Brokers, and Insurance Offices are in State Street. Principal Business Houses. — Boston, as the chief manufacturing and commer- cial city of New England, is the best point from which to select and purchase outfits, &c., for travelhng. The principal retail i)usiness houses are on Wasliington Street. Clothing and Furnishing. — The ex- tensive and well-known house of Macullar, Williams & Parker, No. 194 Washington Street, is one of the best in New England. Their stock of ready-made and custom clothing is such that they are able to fill any order at short notice. Mr. J. C. Boston.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Boston. ChaflSn, at No. 18G, has an excellent as- sortment of furnishing goods. Jewelry, etc. — Tliose desirous of mak- ing purchases of jewelry, watches, or ar- ticles of virtu, ^vill find one of the richest and best-selected stocks at the store of Messrs. Bigelow Brothers & Kennard, No. 219 "Washington Street. Their store is well stocked, and their goods are all warranted of the best quality. Fine Arts, etc. — The Studio Buildhiff is at tlie corner of Tremont and Bromfield Streets. No stranger should leave Bos- ton without visiting the picture gallery of Williams & Everett, No. .234 Wash- iDgton Street. The rooms for the exhibition and sale of the well-known Chickering pianos are at 246 AVashington Street. Among the book publishing and selling houses for which Boston is famous, that of Messrs. Ticknor & Fields, 124 Tremont Street, near the Common, will perhaps best repay a visit. It is tastefully fitted up, and well stocked with choice books. E. P. Button and Co., Theological and Miscellaneous Book Publishers, occu- py No. 135 Washing-ton, corner School Street, one of the oldest and most fre- quented book-stands in Boston. Little, Brown and Co., No. 110, and Lee and Shepard, No. 149, Washington Street, are extensive publishers and book-dealers. The publication office of the Journal is at 120 Washington Street ; of the Post, at 42 Congress, and of the Transcript, at 92 Washington Street. Waliamt. — This once fashionable and still pleasant watering-place, is situat- ed about 12 miles from Boston, by water, and 14 by land. (See Lynn.) During the summer season, a steamboat plies daily. (Fare, 25 cents.) This is a most agree- able excursion, affording an opportunity, in passing through the harbor, for seeing some of the many beautiful islands with which it is studded. The peninsula is divided into Great and Little Nahant, and Bass Neck. On the south side of Great Nahant is the dark cave or grotto, called the Swalloid's Cave, 10 feet wide, 5 high, and 70 long, increasing in a short distance, to 14 feet in breadth, and 18 or 20 in height. On the north shore of the peninsula is a chasm 20 or 30 feet in depth, called Spouting Horn, into which, 90 at about half tide, the water rashes with great violence and noise, forcing a jet of watct through an aperture in the rock to a considerable height in the air. Castle and Pulpit Pocks and Irene's Grotto, are visit- ed by tourists. Copp\i Hill, near the Fitchburg Depot, is frequently visited. In the tjurying- ground is the vault of the Mather family. Koxbury, 2 miles, and Jamaica Plain, 3+ miles, are pleasant places on the Provi- dence Railway. Lo7igwood and Brooldine are pleasant residence spots, between 3 and 4 miles on the road to Worcester. Sharon, 1*7^ miles, occupies the highest land between Boston and Providence. Mr. Cushing^s Garden, a place of great beauty, is .a short distance be- yond Mount Auburn, in Watertown. Tickets may be obtained, gTatis, on appli- cation at the Horticultural Hall, on Tre- mont Street. Fresh Pond, another charm- ing place of resort, is about four miles from Boston, and about half a mile from Mount Auburn. The other sheets of water in the vicinity of Boston, worthy of the at- tention of visitors, are Horn, Spot, Spy, and Mystic Ponds. PhilVqj's Beach, a short distance north- east of Nahant, is another beautiful beach, and a noted resort for persons in search of pleasure or health. Point Shirley, five miles from Boston, afibrds a pleasant drive. The most direct route is via the East Boston Fei-ry. Ex- cellent fish and game dinners and suppers are obtained here. {I'afts Hotel.) Brighton, a station on the Worcester Railway, 5 miles west of the city, is fa- mous for its cattle market. JSfajitaskct Beach, 12 miles from Boston, is situated on the east side of the penin- sula of Nantasket, which forms the south- east side of Boston Harbor. The beach, which is remarkable for its great beauty, is four miles in length, and celebrated for its fine shell-fish, sea-fowl, and good bathing. Chelsea Beach,' about three miles in length, is situated in the town of Chelsea, and is another fine place of resort, with good accommodation for visitors. A ride along this beach on a warm day is de- lightful. It is about five miles from Bos- ton, and may be reached through Charles- town over Chelsea Bridge. Swamjiscott ■Plymouth.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Bridgewater. and Fhillips's Beach may be reached on the same road. (See Route IV.) MOTTTE I. £OSTOJSr TO PLYUOTJTn, NEW BED- FOJRD, ETC. ( Via Old Colony and Newport Railway.) Stations.— Harrison Square, 4 miles ; Neponset, 2 ; Quincy, 8 ; Braintree, 10 ; South Braintree, 12; Randolph, 15; East Stoughton, 17 ; North Bridgewater, 20 ; Campello, 22 ; Keith's, 24 ; E. & W. B'wat- er, 25 ; Bridgewater, 11 ; Titicut, 31 ; Mid- dleboro, 35; Lakeville, 37; Mj'rick's, 42; Assonet, 45 ; Fall River, 54 ; Newport, 72. Steamboat to New York. (The short line, via Taunton, is 67 miles.) Savin Hill, Harrison Square, and Ne- ponset, form part of the town of Dor- chester, and each command a fine view of Boston Harbor, Forts Winthrop and In- dependence, the city buildings on Deer Island, and I)orchester Heights. A por- tion of the breastworks still remain. <5 11 i la c y (8 miles), is celebrated as the birthplace of John Hancock, Presidents John and John Quincy Adams, and Josiah Quincy, Jr. A marble monu- ment to the memory of John Adams and his wife, stands in the stone church, built in 1828. The granite quarries in the neighborhood are among the most ex- tensive in the United States. Braintree and South Braintree are manufacturing towns. The former is the point of departure for Hingham and Co- hasset, the latter for Plymouth. Express (steamboat) trains for New York, over this road, now take the short line from South Braintree for Newport, via Taunton and Somerset. Hingham is 17 miles from Boston, by the South Shore Railway, or it may be reached by a pleasant sail down the bay. Coha^seft, four miles from Hingham {South Shor-e Railway), is a popular sea- side resort. Stages to Scituate and Scit- uate Harbor. Marshjield, interesting as the home of Daniel Webster, is on Massachusetts Bay, 28 miles southeast of Boston {South Shore R ■Iway). I*lym©Bitli. — Hotel, the Samoset House. Plymouth is 26 miles from South Braintree, and 37 miles from- Boston. It is a spot of especial interest, as the land- ing-place of the Pilgrim Fathers, and as the oldest town in New England. Ply- mouth Bock lies at the head of Hedge's Wharf. It is now much reduced from its ancient proportions, being only six and a half feet across its greatest breadth, and but four feet thick. The surface only is visible above the ground. The landing of the Pilgrims from the Mayflower oc- curred on the 22d December, 1620. Pil- gi-ims'' Hall, erected in 1824-5, is worth visiting. The Hollis Institute, incorpo- rated 1851, is located here. Bandolph and Stoughton are famous for their manufacture of boots and shoes. ■ Urid-ge^vater (27 miles) is an ancient town. The site was granted as a plantation to the town of Duxbury in 1642. It was then called "Saughtuch- quett" (Satucket), and was sold (1645) to Captain Miles Standish by " Onsame- gum," chief of the Wampanoag Indians. The Bridgewater B-omcorks are among the largest on the continent. They con- sume 10,000 tons of iron annually, and employ about 600 men. The manufac- ture of small-arms in New England was commenced here. A branch road runs seven miles to Soidh Ahington. Mid.tllel>oi°o (35 miles) is a pros- perous town pleasantly situated upon the Taunton River. It is the seat of a very popular scholastic institution. Here the Cctpe Cod and Taunton branches leave the main line. The Fairhaven branch also diverges for Mattapoisett and New Bedford, 61 miles. Cape Cod. aBtti tlae Sea Isl- aaad-S. — Those who delight in the sea breezes and scenery, in salt water bathing and fishing, will find ample gratification everywhere upon the Atlantic -borders, and especially upon the bold, islanded coast of New England. Besides the well- known haunts of the Long Island and the Jersey shores, of Newjjort, and of the numerous suburban resorts of Boston, to which we have elsewhere alluded, the Isle of Shoals, off Portsmouth, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket, oft" New Bed- ford, etc., we commend the summer wanderer to a tour through the towns and villages, and along the coasts of that very 91 Fall River.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Cambridge, secluded portion of Massachusetts — Cape Cod. Let him journey from "Plymouth Keck," the inner point, to Proviucetown, the outer verge, and he will find novelties in both physical nature and social life, which will more than compensate for the labor of reaching them. The Ca2ie Cod Railway extends along the Cape (see MiDDLEBORo), 49 milcs to Wareham ; '7-i to Barnstable ; 76 to Yarmouth ; and 79 to Hyaunis ; or the tourist may go thence by steamboat, and continue from point to point by stage. Myviclc's (42 miles) is the point of' departure for New Bedford and Taunton. Taiiiatoia. — Hotel, City. Taun- ton, settled in 1639, is a beautiful tovra, of some 17,000 inhabitants, situated at the head of navigation on the Taunton Kiver. It may be reached from Boston, 35 miles ; and from Providence, 30 miles, by the Boston and Providence Railroad (New Bedford and Taunton branch, via Mansfield). Taunton Green is a pleasant public ground in the centre of the town. Mount Pleasant Cemetery and the Slate Lunatic Asylum, opened 1854, are worth visiting. Nov 15e9l"f©i"4l. — This is a charm- ing maritime city, of some 22,000 people, situated on an estuary of Buzzard's Bay. It is famous for its whale fisheries, in which enterprise it employs between 300 and 400 ships. New Bedford is the ter- minus of the New Bedford and Taunton Railway, by which route, via Mansfield, on the Boston and Providence road, it may be reached from those two cities. It is accessible also from New York and Boston, via Myrick's on the Old Colony ton, Newport route. Distance from Bos- and 55 miles. The City Hall and the Fort (Clark's Point) should be seen. Mai-tlasx's Vi]!ieysii.-4l aiail NiiiataacSiet. — These famous sea- islands he off New Bedford, with which port they are in daily steamboat com- munication. Nantucket may be still more easily reached via Cape Cod Rail- way to Hyannis. Somerset has extensive iron-works and potteries. Population, 2,000. Here intersects the Dighton and Somerset Railroad, now used by express trains be- tween Boston and New York. f^ali ISiver (54 miles). — Hotel, 92 Richardson House. Fall River is a thriv- ing town of nearly 18,000 inhabitants, and has very extensive manufactures. It is at the entrance of Taunton River into Mount Hope Bay, an arm of the Narra- ganset. The historic eminence of MokhI Hojyc, the home of King Philip, is admi- rably seen across the bay. Steamboat " Durfee," from Fall River to Providence, daily. Tiverton, the next station, has fine bathing, fishing, etc. A bridge across the Seconet River, or East Channel, con- nects this place with Rhode Island. The view from " Tiverton Heights " of Narra- ganset Bay and islands is very fine. Portsmouth Grove is a pleasnjit picnic resort for parties from Providence, Fall River, and Newport. The Army Hospital is extensive. We^vpoa-t. — (See Index.) MOUTE II. BOSTON TO WOROirSTEB AND SPRINGFIELD. {Via Boston and Worcester and Western Mailways.) Stations. — Boston, Cambridge Cross- ing, 4i miles ; Brighton, 5 ; N. Corner, 6|; Newtonville, 8'; West Newton, 9; Auburndale, 10^ ; Lower Falls (Branch), 12; Grantville, 13i ; ■ Wellesley, 143; Natick, 17i; Saxonville (Branch), 21^; Framingham, 21-J- ; Ashland, 24 ; Corda- ville, 27 ; Southboro', 28 ; Westboro', 32 ; Grafton, 37f ; MiUbury (Branch), 42|- ; Worcester, Lower Station, 44 ; Worcester, 44g ; AVorcester Junction, 42 ; Clappville, 53 ; Charlton, 57 ; Spen- cer, 65 ; East Brookfield, 64 ; Brook- field, 67 ; West Brookfield, 69 ; War- ren, 73 ; Brimfield, 79 ; Palmer, 83 ; Wilbraham, 89 ; Indian Orchard, 92 ; Springfield, 98 ; West Springfield, 100 ; Westfield, 108; Russell, 116; Hun- tington, 119; Chester, 126; Middlefield, 131; Becket, 135; Washington, 138; Hinsdale, 143; Dalton, 146; Pittsfield, 151. Ca,iBal>B-i4lg-e. — Harvard Univer- sity Buildings, Longfellow's residence, Washington's headquarters, and the Washington elm, should be visited, (See Boston and Vicinity.) Worcester.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Springfield. ISrig'litoii ( 5 miles) is a beauti- ful suburban town, on the south side of Charles River. It is noted as a cattle market Winship's Garden. F'raan.imglia, m, in Middlesex County, has several flourishing schools. (See Long Pond). From Saxonville, on the Concord River, a branch road ex- tends to Milford and Marlboro. Grafton (38 miles) is a flourishing town in Worcester County. ■Worcester. — Hotels, the Lincoln House., the Bay State House. Worcester is a flourishing city, 46 miles from Boston, in the centre of one of the most productive agricultural regions of Massachusetts. It was settled in lYlS, and incorporated in 1848. It is noted for its schools and manufactures. Quite a network of railways connects the city with all parts of the country — the West- ern road., direct from Boston to Albaay ; the Worcester and Nashua, communica- ting through other routes with the St. Lawrence River ; the Worcester and Prov- idence; the Norwich and Worcester ; and the Boston and Worcester., v/hich w^e now follow to the end of our present journey. ''S\\QAmericanAntiquarian Society, found- ed (1812) by Isaiah Thomas, has a fine building in the Italian style. The library, of 35,000 volumes, contains some rare works. The Public Library, established in 1859, has a library of 23,000 volumes. Mechanics' HaUha.s a fine organ, and seats for 2,500. The State Lunatic Asylum, established in 1832, and the Oread Lnsti- iute, are pi'omineut edifices. A fire in 1854 swept away a considerable portion of the city. The population nov/ num- bers over 26,000, and is rapidly increas- ing. SpriBag'iSel «!. — Hotel, Massa- soit House, a well-kept and justly popular establishment. Springfield is upon the Connecticut River, 26 miles north of Hartford, 98 miles from Boston, and 138 from New Yoi'k. The apjiroach by the New Haven and Hartford Railway up the bank of the Connecticut affords a fine view of the city. It was settled, 1635, under its In- dian name of Agawam, which was changed in 1640 to its present name. The U. S. Arsenal, located here, is the largest in the Union. It is charmingly perched upon Arsenal Hill, looking down upon the beau- tiful town, the river, and the fruitful val- ley. This noble panorama is seen with still better effect from the cupola which crowns one of the arsenal buildings. This establishment employs nearly 800 hands, and 175,000 stand of arms are kept con- stantly on hand. Upward of $1 2,000,000 were paid out for the construction of arms here during the rebellion. The lines composed by Longfellow, while on a visit to the arsenal, will recur to the mind of the visitor : " This is the arsenal. From floor to ceiling;, Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ; But from their silent mouths no anthem pealing Startles the villagers with strange alarms." - This is a famous gathering-point of rail- roads. The Connecticut valley route starts hence, and furnishes one of the pleasant- est lines of travel from New York to the White Mountains, through Northampton, Brattleboro, Bellows Palls, to Wells River and Littleton, N. H. (See Connecti- cut Yallet, etc., AND White Mountain Routes, No. VII.) The Western Railway, from Albany to Boston, passes through Springfield also, and continues our present route to Worcester. Springfield was in- corporated as a town in 1646, and as a city in 1852. Population, 31,000. The Ceme- tery, on Maple Street, Hampden Park, and Long Hill, afford pleasant rides or walks. Brightwood, the residence of Dr. Holland, the author, is in the neighborhood of Springfield. Westfield, 10 miles west of Springfield, is delightfully sitiiated on the river of that name, and surrounded by pretty hills. It is the seat of a flourishing academy, in- corporated in 1*793. Fittsfield, (See Index.) MOUTE III. BOSTON TO WOBURN, LOWELL, AND NASHUA. ( Via Boston and Loicelt, and Branch Mailways.') Stations. — East Cambridge, ; West Medford, 5 miles ; Winchsster, 8 ; East Woburn, 10 ; Woburn Watering-place, 93 Lowell.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Lynn. 10 ; North Woburn, 12 ; Wilmington, 15 ; Billeiica and Towksbury, 19 ; Nortli Bil- lerica, 22 ; Bleachery, Lowell, 26 ; Mid- dlesex, 27 ; North Chelmsford, 29 ; Tyngs- boro', 32 ; Little's, 35 ; Nashua, 39 ; South Merrimac, 45 ; Daiiforth's, 48 ; Mihbrd, 51 ; Wilton, 55. JEaat Cambridge (two miles) has large glass-works. It is connected with Bos- ton by Canal Bridge. (See Cambridge.) SomcrvUh (three miles), on the Mystic River and Miller's Creek, has several ob- jects of interest. The McLean Insane Asylum^ near East Cambridge, is worth visiting. Prospect and Winter Hills, with their lievolutionary memories, are in the neighborhood. Meclford (five miles), at the head of navigation on Mystic Eiver, has large ship-yards. Medford Church was long presided over by the late Rev. John Pier- pont, the poet. Winchester (eight miles) is a suburban summer residence for Boston merchants. It was formed from Woburn, Medford, and West Cambridge, and incorporated in 1850. Branch to Woburn (Horn Pond), two miles. Woburn (Centre) is pleasantly situated on elevated ground. Benjamin Thomp- son (Count Rumford), the inventor, was born here, March 26, 1'753. lliO-»vell. — Hotels, the Washington md Merrimac. This famous manufacturing city, the Brst in the Union, is upon the soulli side af the Merrimac, at its junction with Doncord River, 26 miles from Boston, rhe Pawtucket Falls, the source of the jity's prosperity and wealth, have a de- scent of 33 feet. Lowell, named after Francis C. Lowell, of Boston, was incorpo- rated as a town in 1826, and in 1865 its copulation was 35,000. There are over 50 mills in operation in Lowell, employ- ng a capital of $13,900,000, and nearly 13,000 hands, of whom about 9,000 are females. The Mechanics' Association has I librai'y of 10,000 volumes. A monument ;o Ladd and Whitney, of the Sixth Mas- sachusetts regiment, killed in Baltimore, ipril 19, 1861, stands in the public square. IVaslaita, an important manufac- lUring town, 13 miles north of Lawrence, md 89 from Boston, is situated at the 94 confluence of the Nashua and Memmac Rivers, in the adjoining State of New Hampshire. The Nashua River has a fall of 65 feet in two miles at this place. It is connected by rail with Concord, Lowell, Worcester, Lawrence, and Wilton. (For continuation of this route, via Manchester and Concord, to the White Mountains, see Routes in New Hampshire.) ROUTE IF. BOSTON TO LTNN, SALEM, NEWBURT- POIiT, AND PORTLAND. ( Via Eastern Railway.) Stations. — Boston, Somerville, 2 miles ; South Maiden (Saugus Branch), 3 ; Chelsea, 4 ; North Chelsea, 6 ; West Lynn, 10; Lynn, 11; Swampscott, 12; Salem 16; Beverly, 18; North Beverly, 20; Wenham, 22 ; Ipswich, 2*7 ; Rowley (Amesbury Branch), 31 ; Newburyport, 36; East " Salisbury, 38; Seabrook, 42 ; Hampton Falls, 43 ; Hampton, 46 ; North Hampton, 49^; Greenland, 51; Ports- mouth, 56 ; Portland, 108. Claelsea is one of the pleasantest of the Boston suburban towns. The Na'jal Hospitcd, Marine Hospital, and Town Hcdl are prominent buildings. Powder- Horn Hill and Mount Bellingham com- mand fine views. Population, 14,000. Woodlawn Cemetery is two miles beyond. Hi y 11 M. , — Hotel, the Sagamore Hoiise. Lynn, 11 miles from Boston, on the Eastern Railroad, is also reached by. the Saiigtis Branch several times daily ; dis- tance, 12 miles. It is charmingly situ- ated on the northeast shore of Massa- chusetts Bay, and is a famous place for the manufacture of ladies' shoes. This business employs 1 50 establishments and 10,000 hands, half of whom are females. It is estimated that 4,500,000 pairs of ladies' and misses' shoes are made here every yeai-. Besides the product of the city, another half million pairs are made in the neighborhood. The Neiu City Hall, on the Common, comer of Mar- ket and Essex Streets, is an imposing and spacious edifice, with a fine tower. It is of pressed brick, faced with Connecticut freestone. Stages two miles to Nahant. Salem.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Lawrence Swampseoti has a fine beach for sea- bathing. Sa^lem (16 miles) extends about two miles along and three-quarters of a mile across the peninsula formed by the North and the South Rivers, It was settled in 1629- '30, and is, next to Plymouth, the oldest town in New England. Salem was the chief scene of the " witchcraft " mad- ness in 1692. Upon Galloios Hill, a fine eminence overlooking the city, 19 persons of the town and neighborhood were ex- ecuted for this supposed crime. Salem is also distinguished for its services in the war of the Revolution. The City Hall, erected in 183Y, the Museum ( E. I. Marine Society), Court-liouse, and public ground, are the most noteworthy objects. Chestnut Street is a handsome promenade. Branch road 21 miles to Lawrence Junc- tion of Essex, South Reading and Salem and Lotoell Railways. Marblehead is four miles from Salem, by a branch road. Beverly (18 miles) is upon an arm of Ann Harbor, two miles from Salem, with which it is connected by a bridge of 1,500 feet, built in 1*788. Gloucester- Branch io Rockport, 18 miles. TV e m la a, m. (22 miles). WenJiccm Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile square, affords abundance of excel- lent fish, and is much visited by persons fond of angling. It is also noted for the quality and quantity of its ice, a large amount of which is yearly exported. Ipswich (27 miles), is on Ipswich River, four miles from the sea. Incorporated in 1634. The vicinity is noted for its hay crops. N e >v !> 11 r y p © s" t . — Hotel, the Merrimac Hoii,se. Newbiiryport (36 miles) lies on a gentle acclivity, on the south bank of the Mer- rimac River, near its union with the At- lantic. It is considered one of the most beautiful towns in New England. In con- sequence of a sand-bar at the mouth of the harbor, its commerce has greatly de- clined. The celebrated George Whitefield died in this town, September, 17*70. Branch to Georgetown and Bradford. (See Route V.) Salisbury Beach, celebi'ated for its beauty and salubrity, is much visited during the warm season. It is four miles distant from Newburyport. Seahrook, New Hampshire (42 miles), is nofed for its building of whale-boats. (See New Hampshire.) MOUIE r. TO BEADING, ANDOVER, LAWRENCE AND MA VERHILL. ( Via Boston and Maine Railway). Stations. — Boston, Maiden, 5 miles ; Melrose, Y ; South Reading Junction, 9 ; South Reading, 10; Reading, 12; Wil- mington, 15; Wilmington Junction, 18; Ballardvale, 21 ; Andover, 23 ; South Lawrence, 26 ; North Lawrence, 2*7 ; North Andover, 28; Bradford, 32; Haverhill, 33 ; Atkinson, 3*7 ; Plaistow, 38 ; Newton, 41 ; East Kingston Depot, 45 ; Exeter, 50 ; South Newmarket, 54 ; Newmarket Junction, 55 ; Newmarket, 5*7 ; Durham, 62 ; Madbury, 65 ; Dover, 68 ; Eollinsford, '71 ; Great Falls, 74 ; Salmon Falls, 72 ; South Berwick Junction, 74 ; Portland, 111. Somermlle (2 miles). Medford (5 miles), delightful summer residence; eight trains daily. Melrose (7 miles) has pretty drives in the neighborhood. IS.eaifillstg' (12 miles), in Middlesex County, is principally famous for its manufacture of boots, etc. Wilmington (15 miles), famous for its hops. Andover (23- miles) is pleasantly sit- uated on the south bank of the Merri- mac River. It was incorporated 1646, and is the seat of Bhillips^s Academy, founded 1778, and of the Andover Theo- logical Seminary, founded 1807. The latter commands a fine view. It has a library of 25,000 volumes. The Abbott Female Academy was instituted in 1829. North Andover station and village are five miles farther up the railway. BLiaT^remce (26 miles), 13 miles from Lowell, lies on both sides of the Merrimac River. It has ex- tensive manufactures, and is connected with Manchester and Salem by rail. By means of a dam across the Merri- mac River, erected 1845, a fall of 28 feet is obtained for manufacturing pur- poses. It was incorporated in 1845, and 95 Haverhill.] MASSACHUSETTS. [FiicnBuuG. now contains 23,000 inhabitants. Tiie Common, in the centre of the town, com- prises 17 acres. The C/7// Hall is a handsome edifice. The Oliver School, in the immediate vicinity, and the leading mills, are well woi'th visiting. The prin- cipal building of the Pacific Mills is 800 feet long and seven stories high ; 3,500 operatives are employed. A library of 3,400 volumes is sustained by the op- eratives for their own use. Trains to Lowell (13 miles), four times daily. Bradford (32 miles) has a flourishing academy. Msivei-liill, with which Bradford is connected by bridge, 680 feet long, across the Merrimac River, has several fiouiish- iug educational institutions, and two fine churches. It was settled in 1640, in- corporated 1645, and has a population of 8,000. Branch to Georgetown and New- buryport. Oeorgetown, in Essex County, is 29 miles *due north of Boston. The J/e- morial Church, erected ]866-'6'7 by George Peabody, from a design by Bryant and Gilman, and by him pi-esented to the town, is worth seeing. (For continu- ation of route, see New Hampshire, and Routes from Portland, Maine.) MOUTE VI. BOSrOAT TO WALTlTA3r, LEXINGTON, CONCORD, AND FITCHBVBG. ( Via Fitcliburg Railway, and Branohes.) Stations. — Boston, Charlestown, 1 mile ; Porter's, 3 ; Belmont, 6 ; Waltham, 10; Lincoln, 11; Concord, 20; South Acton, 25 ; Littleton, 31 ; Groton Junction, 35 ; Shirley, 40 ; Leominster, 46 ; Fitch- burg, 50. . Charlestown (one mile), jBunker Hill Monument, Navy Yard, and State Prison (fee). Population, 27,000. (See Boston and Vicinity.) West Cambridge (also street ears), Fresh and Spy Ponds, Trotting Park, etc. "Waterto-^VM, on Charles River (eight miles by branch road), has a United States Arsenal covering 40 acres, and several factories. (vSee Mount Au- burn and Mr. Cushing's Garden.) Waltham (ten miles), on Charles 96 River, has an extensive manufactory of watches. Prospect Hill, 500 feet high, commands a fine view. Lexington. — Lexington, the scene of the memorable battle of Lexington, at the commencement of the Revolution, April 19, 1775, is reached from Boston by a branch railway through West Cam- bridge — a fine ride of 11 miles. The mon- ument, built in 1799, stands on the green near the church. Concord (20 miles) is situated on the river of the same name. It was set- tled in 1635, and is celebrated as the place where the first effectual resistance was made, and the first British blood shed, in the Revolutionary War. On the 19th of April, 1775, a party of British troops was ordered by General Gage to proceed to this place to destroy some military stores, which had been deposited here by the province. The troops were met at the north bridge by the people of Concord and the neighboring towns, and forcibly repulsed. A handsome granite monument, 25 feet high, erected in 1836, commemorates the heroic and patriotic achievement. Acto7t, till 1735, formed part of Concord. CJrotOBi Jniiction (35 miles) is the point of intersection with the Worcester and Nashua, the Slonybrook^i and Peterboro' and Shirley Railwayit^ Groton is famous for the beauty of it situation, and its schools. Population| 3,172. S^itcIiItMi'g (50 miles), the teF minus of the Fitchburg, the Fitchbur§ and Worcester, and the Vermo7it ' and Massachusetis Railways, lies on a branch of the Nashua River, which affords a tine water-power. The Town Hcdl is a spa- cious edifice. The leading hotels are the Fitchburg and American. nOUTE VII, TO EOLTDKE, BELLO^VS FALLS, AND WHITE 3I0UNTAINS. ( Via Connecticut River Railway, and con- necti07is.) The Connecticut, the queen of New England rivers, rises in the hills of New Hampshire and Vermont, near the Can- HOLTOKE.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Mount Tom. ada border, and flowing nearly south- ward for 400 miles, separates the two States of its mountain birth, traverses the entire breadth of Massachusetts and Con- necticut, to the Long Island Sound. The Passumpsic, the White, the Deerfield, the Westiield, and the Ammonoosuc, are its principal tributaries. It is navigable for sloops 50 miles up to Hartford, and with the help of numerous canals very much farther. The Connecticut valley is per- haps 300 miles long in a straight line, with a mean width of 40 miles. The soil is as fertile as the landscape is beau- tiful. The best approach is from the south, via Springfield. (See Spking- FiELD.) Trom Boston, the best route is via Worcester to Springfield, whence the line runs due north 50 miles to South Vernon. The beautiful valleys watered by the Connecticut are among the most inviting portions of the New England landscape, whether for rapid transit or for pro- tracted stay. The whole region is speed- ily and pleasantly accessible from every point, and may be traversed en route to most of the principal summer resorts of New England, since many important and very attractive towns and villages lie within its area, and since it is crossed aud recrossed, everywhere, by the in- tricate railway system which unites Bos- ton so intimately, not only with all the Eastern States, but with the whole coun- try. - Stations. — Springfield, Chicopee, 4 ; Wilhmansett, *? ; Holyoke, 8 ; Smith's Ferry, 13 ; Northampton, 17; Hatfield, 21 ; Whately, 26 ; South Deerfield, 28 ; Deerfield, 33 ; Greenfield, 36 ; Bernards- ton, 43 ; South Vernon, 50. CJiicopee, on the south bank of the Chicopee River, is a manufacturing place of considerable note. The mills of the Dwight Manufacturing Company^ aud the works of the Ames Manufacturing Com- pany, are worthy a visit. Williniansett, (seven miles) is the point of departure for South Hadley Falls. IBolyoIie (eight miles) is famous for its fine water-power : the dam across the Connecticut at this point, built in 1849, is 1,01*7 feet long, aud SO feet high. Mount Holyoke is directly across the river from Northampton ; a carriage road three miles long winds to the summit, 1,120 feet above the sea, where there is a little iim and an observatory. There are not of its kind many scenes in the world more beautiful than that which the visitor to Mount Holyoke looks down upon : the varied features of the picture — fruitful valleys, smiling villages and farms, winding waters, and, far off, on every side, blue mountain peaks innu- merable — will hold him long in happy contemplation. Mount Holyoke is a part of a ridge of greenstone, commen- cing with West Rock near New Haven, and proceeding northerly across the whole of Connecticut ; but its elevation is small until it reaches Easthampton, when it suddenly mounts up to the height of nearly 1,000 feet, and forms Mount Tom. The ridge crosses the Con- necticut, in a northeast direction, and curving still more to the east, terminates 10 miles from the river, in the north- west part of Belchertown. All that part of the ridge east of the river is called Holyoke, though the Prospect House, built in 1821, stands near its southwest- ern extremity, opposite Northampton, and near the Connecticut. This is by far the most commanding spot on the moun- tain, although several distinct summits, that have as yet received no uniform name, afford delightful prospects. An inclined railway 600 feet long down the mountain side connects with horse-cars to the Connecticut River, where passen- gers take boat. Mount Tom, upon the opposite side of the river, is not yet so much visited as are its neighboring cliffs of Holyoke, though it is considerably higher, and the panorama from its crest is no less broad and beautiful. Its height is 1,200 feet. Easthampton, on the Granby Railway (five miles from Northampton), is sit- uated on the west side of Mount Tom. It contains a very extensive button manu- factory, well deserviug of a visit from those who can appreciate mechanical in- genuity. The principal feature of the place, however, is its noble seminary for the youth of both sexes, which was founded and liberally endowed by the Hon. Samuel Williston, at an expense of $55,000, and has been in successful op- eration upward of 20 years, having now 97 Route VII.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Northampton. an average attendance of about 200 pu- pils. On the east side of Mount Tom and on the river is the viUage of South Hadleii, famous as the seat of the Motini Holyoke Female Seminari/, founded ISSY, and for many years conducted by Miss Mary Lyon. This institution has sent out hundreds of graduates, as teachers, into all parts of the land. South Hadley has many spots which aiford most agree- able prospects. Standing on the ele- vated bank of the river and facing the northwest, you look directly up the Con- necticut, where it passes between Hol- yoke and Tom — those mountains rising with precipitous boldness, on either side of the valley ; through the opening, the river is seen for two or three miles, en- livened by one or two lovely islands, while over the rich meadows, that adorn the banks, are scattered trees, through which, half hidden, appears in the dis- tance the village of Northampton, its more conspicuous edifices being only visible. The village of Hadley is connected with Northampton by a bi'idge over the Con- necticut. The river immediately above the town, leaving its general course, turns northwest; then, after winding to the Bouth again, turns directly east ; and thus having v»-andered five miles, encloses, ex- cept on the east, a beautiful intervale containing between two and three thou- sand acres. On the isthmus of this pen- insula lies the principal street (West Street), the handsomest, by nature, in New England. It is a mile in length, running directly north and south ; is six- teen rods in breadth ; is nearly a perfect level ; is covered during the fine season with a rich verdure ; abuts at both ends on the river, and yields everywhere a de- lightful prospect. Hadley was settled in 1650, by a colony from Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield, Connecticut. In this town resided for fifteen or sixteen years Whalley and Goffe, two of those who composed the court for the trial of King Charles the First, and who signed the warrant for his execution. They came to Hadley in 1664. When the house which they occupied was pulled down, the bones of AVhalley were found buried just with- out the cellar wall, in a kind of tomb formed of mason-work, and covered with flags of hewn stone. After Whalley'a death, Gofie left Hadley, and went, it was thought, to New York, and finally to Rhode Island, where he spent the rest of his life with a son of his deceased conr frcrc. I¥ortlasiiii5»toit. — Hotels, the Mansion House, an elegant establishment upon the upper edge of the village ; War- ner House, in the business street ; and Round Hill Insiitute, Northampton was settled in 1654, by planters from Hartford and Windsor. The Indian name \%Nono- tuck. It is in every way one of the most charming villages in New England, and none other is more sought for summer residences. It lies about a mile west of the Connecticut, surrounded by rich allu- vial meadows, sweeping out in broad ex- panse from the base of the grand moun- tain ridges. The village is not too large for country pleasures, the population of the township falling within 6,000 ; yet its natural advantages are so great, and so many pleasant people have established themselves here in such attractive places, and the hotels are so admirable, that the tourist will not miss either the social or the physical enjoyments of his city home. Even the little iDusiness part of North- ampton has a cosy, rural air, and all around are charming villas, nestled on green lawns, and among fragrant flowers. Among the specialties of Northarapton are several water-cure establishments, the chief of which is that known as Round Hill, a large and beautiful place, upon the fine eminence after which it is named, just west of the village. The schools here have always been in very high repute. The State Lunaiic Asylum is a large and elegant structure, built in 1858. The vicinage of Northampton is, perhaps, the most beautiful portion of the Connecticut valley, the most fertile in its intervale laud, and the most striking in its moun- tain scenes ; for it looks out directly upon the crags and crests of those famous hills, Mount Holyoke and jMount Tom. Flor- ence is a thriving manufacturing point two miles west of the centre of the town. A horse railway is in process of construc-j tion to Florence and Williamsburg. Maeliey, 3 miles east of the rail way, is famous for its manufacture brooms, first introduced in 1790. It l Amherst College.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Geeenfield. the birthplace of Major-General Joseph Hooker. AxEili.e3*st College, founded in 1821, is built upon an eminence, four miles east of Hadley. The College Observatory^ and especially its rich cabinet collection, is worthy the attention of the visitor. The upper room ( Octagonal Cabinet) con- tains Professor Shepard's Miner alogical Cabinet of 6,000 specimens. The lower room contains Wood's Geological Cabinet, numbering 20,000 specimens. The Nine- veh Gallery, the Adams Zoological Cab- inet, and Dr. Hitchcock's Iclmological Col- lection, containing 9,000 specimens, and the Herbariimi, should in turn be visited. The buildings of the Ilassackusetts Agri- cultural College, commenced in 1866, are also worthy a visit. The Great Bend of the Connecticut is reached a mile north of Northampton, and here we take our last view of the river imtil we reach South Vernon. Hatfield, four mUes, and Whately, nine miles from Northampton, are nest reach- ed, and soon after — The SugaBT-tioai" KEoiisitaim comes into view, as we journey on up the valley. This conical peak of red sand- stone rises almost perpendicularly five hundred feet above the plain, on the bank of the Connecticut, in the south part of Deerfield township. As the trav- eller approaches this hOl from the south, it seems as if its summit were inaccessi- ble. But it can be attained without dif- ficulty on foot, and affords a delightful view on almost every side. The Connec- ticut and the peaceful village of Sunder- land on its bank appear so near, that one imagines he might almost reach them by a single leap. This mountain overlooks a spot which was the scene of the most sanguinary conflicts that occurred during the early settlement of this region. A Uttle south of the mountain the Indians were defeated in 16*75 by Captains La- throp and Beers; and one mile northwest, where the village of Bloody Brook (South Deerfield) now stands (which derived its name from the circumstance), in the same year. Captain Lathrop was drawn into an ambuscade, with a company of " eighty young men, the very flower of Essex County," who were nearly all destroyed. A stone slab marks the spot where Cap- tain Lathrop and about thirty of his men were interred ; and a marble monument, about twenty feet high and six feet square, is erected in front of the North Church. Table Rock and King Philip's Chair are on the eastern side of the mountain. Deerfield Mountain, rising some YOO feet above the plain on which the village stands, commands a wide view. The allu- vial plain on which Deerfield stands is sunk nearly 100 feet below the general level of the Connecticut valley ; and at the southwest part of this basin, Deerfield Eiver is seen emerging from the moun- tains, and winding in the most graceful curves along its whole western border. Still farther down is the village, remark- able for its regularity, and for the number and size of the trees along the principal street. Upon the whole, this view forms one of the most perfect rural pictures that can be imagined. Pocumtuck Rock com- mands a fine view of the valley. The bridge over the Deerfield River, just be- yond the station, is VoO feet long and 90 feet above the water. Three miles north of Deerfield, and in the same valley, but on higher ground, can be seen the lovely village of Greenfield. Mount Toby lies in the north part of Sunderland and the west part of Leverett townships, and is separated from Sugar- Loaf and Deerfield Mountains by the Con- necticut River. On various parts of the mountain interesting views may be ob- tained, but at the southern extremity of the highest ridge there is a finer view of the valley of the Connecticut than from any other eminence. Elevated above the river nearly 1,200 feet, and but a little distance from it, its windings lie dhectly before you; and the villages that line its banks, Sunderland, Hadley, Hatfield, Northampton, and Araherst, appear hke so many sparkling gems in its crown. Mount Warner is a hill of less altitude than any before named, being only 200 or 300 feet in height, but a rich view can be had from its top of that portion of the valley of the Connecticut just described. It lies in the north part of the town of Hadley, not more than half a mile from the river, and can be easily reached by carriage. €3a-eeiraiield. — Hotel, the Man- sion House. 99 Greenfield.] MASSACHUSETTS. [Greenfield. Greenfield, on the Vermont and Mas- sachusetts Railway, 52 miles west of Fitchburg, and 18 miles south of Brattle- boro, is a pleasant and thriving place, with a population of 3,500. The wonted New England quiet, however, is all around it in elm-shaded streets and gar- den-surrounded villas. The hill-i'anges in the neighborhood open fine pictures of the valleys and windings of the great river. Being connected with the railway systems of the west and of the north- west, it is a desirable place for tourists to rest a while ere starting upon fresh fields of adventure and exploration. Green River, which flows near the village, is a pretty stream, and hard by are the Deer- field and Greenfield Rivers. Cutlery is 100 extensively manufactured here. The neighborhood abounds in pretty drives. The famous Hoosic Tunnel is reached from Greenfield, via Shelburne Falls. Turner's Falls, and Bernardston, the seat of Power''s Institute, arc passed before reaching South Vernon, the southern line of Vermont. At Middle Vernon there is a charming view up the river, as seen from the railway track — Mount Chesterfield, in New Hampshire, opposite Brattleboro, rising up stoutly in the background. And here we will part company with our traveller for a while, promising soon to join him in further explorations in the neighboring States of New Hampshire and Vermont, i I New Hampshike.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [The "White Mountains. KEW HAMPSHIEE. New Hampshike, one of the original thirteen States, is bounded north by Canada, east by Maine and the Atlantic, south by Massachusetts, and west by Vermont. The first settlements were made at Dover, in 1623. It contains some of the grandest hill and valley and lake scenery in America, and is yearly visited by a larger number of tourists than perhaps any State in the Union. The White Mountains here are popularly supposed to be the highest land east of the Mississippi River, as in- deed they are, with the single exception of Black Mountain in North Carolina. These noble hills occupy, with their many outposts, a very considerable portion of the State, and form the specialty in its physical character. The reader will find a detailed mention of all these features, and of the beautiful intermediate lake- region, in subsequent pages. On his route from Boston to the moun- tain regions, the tourist will find much to interest him, if his interest lies that way, in the enterprising manufacturing towns of the lower part of the State. In its historical records. New Hampshire has no very striking passages — ^no important reminiscences, either of the Revolutionary War, or of the later conflict with Great Britain in 1812. The principal rivers of New Hamp- shire are the Connecticut, which forms the whole western boundary of the State, dividing it from Vermont, the Merrimac, Upper and Lower Ammonoosuc, and the Saco. Lake Winnipisaukee, near the centre of the State, is its principal inland water. The railway lines of New Hamp- shire are numerous enough to give ready access to all sections of her territory, and to the neighboring States. Occasions will occur for ample mention of the facilities which they afford for travel, as we follow them, severally, hither and thither. New Hampshire is divided into ten counties, viz. : B'jlknap, Carroll, Cheshire, Coos, Grafton, Hillsborough, Merrimac, Rock- ingham, Strafford, and Sullivan. Man- chester, Concord (the capital), Nashua, and Portsmouth, are the chief towns. The population m 1860 was 326,0*73. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. ROUTES FROM BOSTON, PORTLAND, ETG. Route 1. From Boston by Lake Win- nipisaukee and Conway Valley. From Haymarket Square, Boston, to Concord, '70 miles, by Concord, MaHchester, and Lawrence Railway ; 83 miles, to Weir's, on Lake Winnipisaukee, by Boston, Con- cord, and Montreal Railway ; 10 miles by steamer " Lady of the Lake" on Lake Win- nipisaukee to Centre Harbor (dine) ; 30 miles by stage to Conway remain all night, and proceed, 24 miles, to Crawford House, White Mountain Notch, next day. Total distance from Boston to Crawford House, 168 miles. Distance from New York, 405 miles. Passengers by the Bos- ton morning train only reach Conway the same evening. Those taking No. 2, or noon train, will pass the night at Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnipisaukee, and the next night at Conway, reaching the moun- tains on the third day. Route 2. From Boston. Leave Hay- market Square (as in Route 1); 68 miles to Dover, N. H., upon Boston and Maine Railway ; thence to Alton Bay, 28 miles, upon Dover and Winnipisaukee Railway ; thence by steamer "Chocorua" (dine on board) to Wolfboro' (Pavilion hotel) and Centre Harbor, 30 miles, on Lake Winni- 101 Routes.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [Routes pisaukee ; tbence by stage, via Conway, to the mouutains, as in Route No. 1. Pass- engers by morning train only, from Boston, reach Conway the same night. Those by second, or noon train, will. pass the night at Wolf boro', or Centre Harbor. From Boston to Crawford Honse, by this route, 96 miles by railroad, 30 by steamboat, and 54 by stage; total, 180 miles. Route 3. From Boston, same as in route No. 1, as far as Weir's, on Lake Winnipisaukee ; thence, continuing upon the railroad, 18 miles from Weir's to Ply- mouth, N. H. ; dine at Plymouth (Pemi- gewasset House), and proceed by stage, 24 miles, through West Campton, etc., to the Flume House, Franconia Notch, the western end of the mountains. Passen- gers by the morning train from Boston will reach the Flume House, Franconia Notch, the same evening. Those taking the second train will stay over until next day at Plymouth. Distance from Boston to Flume House, 148 miles, being 124 by railway, and 24 by stage. Stages daily from Flume House, 5 miles to Profile House, 22 miles to White Mountain House ; thence, 5 miles, to Crawford House. Distance from Flume House to Crawford House, 32 miles. Route 4. From Boston, same as in Routes 1 and 3, to Weir's ; thence to Ply- mouth (dine), continuing upon the rail- road, 42 miles, from Plymouth to Wells River; thence upon White Mountains Railway, 20 miles, to Littleton ; thence by stage, 11 miles, to Profile House, and 5 miles farther to Flume House, or 23 miles to Crawford House. Passengers by the early train only reach the mountains the same night. Those taking second train stay till next day at Plymouth. From Boston to Profile House, 193 miles ; to Flume House, 198 miles; to Crawford House, 205 miles ; 182 miles by railroad, rest by stage. BOUTES VIA PORTLAND, MAINE. Route 5. To Portland, 111 miles \i^ Bos- ton and Maine Railway, morning and even- ing, from Haymarket Square, via Read- ing, Lawrence, Haverhill, Exeter, etc. Through baggage for the White Moun- tains to be marked '■'■Portland Easf'' Passeucers by first train will dine in Port- 102 land, and take Gravid Trunk Railway, through Cumberland, Yarmouth, etc., 91 miles, to Gorham, N. H. Second-train passengers will pass the night at Portland, and proceed to Gorham next day. From Gorham, 9 miles, by stage to Glen House, foot of Mount Washington. Stages leave Glen House every morning for Crawford House, 34 miles distant, via Pinkham Notch, also via Cherry Mountain. From Boston to Gorham, 202 miles ; to Glen House, 211 miles; to Crawford House, 244 miles. ; Route 6. Leave Causeway Street by Eastern Railway, morning and evening, via Lynn, Salem, Beverly, Newburyport, Portsmouth, etc., 108 miles, to Portland, and thence as in Route No. 5. Route 1. From Boston to Portland, by steamer, every night, from end of Central Wharf; thence, as in Route No. 5. Route 8. From Boston to Portland, by railway or steamer, as in Routes 5, 6, and Y, and thence by Sebago Lake and Pleas- ant Mountain to Conway ; thence to , Crawford House, etc., as in Route No. 1. A B0UTE8 FROM NEW YORK DIRECT. Route 9. From New York by railway V via New Haven, Hartford, and Spring- U iield ; thence by railway np the valley of * •' the Coimecticut to Wells River, and from thence to Littleton, N. H. ; from Littleton by sfage, as in Route 4. Route 10. By steamboat from Pier 18, North River, N. Y., every evening to New London ; thence by railway to Worcester, Nashua, and Concord ; and from Concord on the east side by Couway to Crawford House, Route 1 ; or the west side by Campton to the Franconia Notch, Route 3. A very charming route, full of ever- changing and increasingly attractive points. Route 11. From New York by Hudson River, or Hudszn River Railway, to Al- bany or Troy ; thence to Whitehall, and down Lake Champlain to Burlington, Vermont ; thence by Vermont Central Railroad through the Winooski valley and Green Mountains {via Montpeher), to White River Junction, where connection is made with the Connecticut Valley road to Littleton. Concord.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [Portsmouth. EouTE 12. From New York by Hudson Kiver to Albany ; thence to Whitehall, I j head of Lake Champlain, and thence via I i Rutland, Vermont ; or via Bellows Falls, on the line of the Connecticut Valley road, to Littleton. The fashionable route is the boat route by Weir's ; but amid such a multiplicity of routes the tourist will be best guided by his own taste and inclination. BiasacSiester, 52 miles from Bos- ton, via Lawrence, on the left bank of the Merrimac, is an important manufac- turing town. This place, like Lawrence and other points in Massachusetts, has suddenly grown, under the development of manufacturing enterprise, from an in- considerable village, into a large and popu- lous city. Its charter was granted in 1846, and it now contains 23,000 inhab- itants. The villages of Piscataquog and Amoskeag (" Quog " and " Slieag ") are included in the city Umits. Cosacoi'sl. — Hotel, Eagle House. Concord, the capital of the State, is on the banks of the Merrimac, 20 miles above Manchester, by Concord^ Manchester, and La.wrence Railroad. The State Cap- itol, the Lunatic Asylum, and the State Prison, are pubhc edifices of interest. A Methodist General Biblical Institute was founded here in 1847. Main Street, the principal thoroughfare, is two miles long and 150 feet wide. It is the home of ex- President Franklin Pierce. Concord has railway connection with the White Moun- tains, via Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railway. The Concord and Portsmouth, Concord and Claremont, and Northern (N. H.) Raihvays also diverge here. SfainaptOEa, 45 miles, is pleasantly situated in Rockingham County, near the Atlantic coast, nearly midway between Boston and Portland, via the Eastern Railway. From elevations in the vicinity there are fine views of the ocean, the Isle of Shoals, and the sea-coast from Cape Ann to Portsmouth. Hampton Beach is a favorite resort for parties of pleasure, in- valids, and those seeking an invigorating air. Great Boards Head, in this town, is an abrupt eminence extending into the sea, and dividing the beach on either side. There is here a hotel for the accommoda- tion of visitors. The fishing a short dis- tance from the shore is very good. The village of Hampton Falls, incorporated in 1*712, is three miles south. "Tlie Isle ©f SSaoals is distant about nine miles from Hampton and from Portsmouth. These shoals are seven in number. Hog Island, the largest, contains 850 acres, mostly rocky and barren. Its greatest elevation is 59 feet above high- water mark. Upon this island is a hotel. Rye Beach is another watering-place on this coast, much frequented by persons from the neighboring towns. I*©rts2iii®iitla. — Hotel, Rocking- ham House. Portsmouth, 56 miles from Boston, and 52 from Portland, Maine, by the East- ern Railroad, the second city of the State, and the only seaport, is built on the south side of the Piscataqua River. Its situation is a fine one, being on a peninsula, near the mouth of the river. It is connected by bridges with Kittery, in Maine, and New- castle, on Grand Island, at the mouth of the river. The harbor is safe and deep, and is never frozen, its strong tides pre- venting the formation of ice. The United States JSfavy Tard is worth visiting. The North America, the first line-of-battle ship launched in this hemisphere, was built here during the Revolution. (For continuation of this route to Portland, see Maine.) The tourist journeying to the White Mountains or Canada, by way of the Con- necticut valley, will resume his route (see Springfield, Mass.) at Brattleboro, which, though in the adjoining State of Vermont, properly belongs to this chapter on New Hampshire, as being on the great highway of travel to the White Moun- tains. MrsittlelJOB-o. — Hotels, the Brat- tlehoro, the Wesselhcift. Brattleboro brings us fairly out of the rich alluvial lands into the upper and more rugged portions of the Connecticut. The intervales now grow narrower, and the hills more striking. This beautiful village is in a very picturesque district, upon the west side of the river, at the mouth of Whetstone Creek. It is, de- servedly, one of the most esteemed of the summer resorts of the Connecticut, so pure and health-restoring are its airs and so pleasant all its surroundings. There are here several large and admir- 103 Bellows Falls.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [Keene, able water-cure establishments. The vil- lage cemelenj, which occupies a lofty ter- race overlooking the river above and below, is a beautiful rural spot. West River, above the town, is an exceedingly picturesque stream. The buildings and grounds of the Asylum for the Insane present a fine appearance. Opposite Brattleboro, on the east side of the Con- necticut, rise Wantastiquet and Mine Moimiains. The former is 1,061 feet high. The Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad to Fitchburg (69 miles) diverges hence. West Brattleboro is two miles distant. Our next stage is 24 miles, from Brat- tleboro to Bellows Falls, over the Ver- mont Valley road. Westminster, 20 miles north of Brattle- boro, is interesting as the spot where were enacted some of the earliest scenes and incidents of the Revolution. It con- tains the oldes-t church building in Ver- mont, erected IVZO. It is now used as a town-hall and store. The Gazette, the first paper issued (1781) in the State, was published here. Wcdpole, opposite Westminster, is a pretty village, founded in 1782 by Colonel Benjamin Bellows. Abenaquis, a mineral spring, is two miles north of the village. Derry Hill commands fine views. 15ello>vs ff'alSgo — Hotkl : the Island House is a well-kept establish- ment. Bellows Falls is a famous congrega- ting and stopping place of railways. With the exception of some bold passages of Qatural scenery, there is not much here, 3omparatively, to detain the traveller. Railways come in from Boston on the 3ast, from the valley of the Connecticut 3n the south, from Vermont and Canada in the north, and from Albany and Troy, na Rutland, on the west. The Falls'are a series of rapids in the Connecticut, extending about a mile along he base of a high and precipitous hill, vuown as Mount Kilburn, which skirts he river on the New Hampshire side, it the bridge which crosses the ri.ver at his place, the visitor can stand directly )ver the boiling fiood; viewed from dience, the whole scene is very effective, -he Connecticut is here compressed into narrow a compass that it seems as if 104 one could almost leap across it. The water, which is one dense mass of foam, rushes through the chasm with such velocity, that in striking on the rocks below, it is forced back upon itself for a considerable distance. In no place is the fall perpendicular to any considerable extent, but in the distance of half a mile the waters descend about 50 feet. A canal half a mile long, with locks, was constructed round the falls, many years since, at an expense of $50,000. The first bridge across the Connecticut was built here in 1785. From Bellows Falls diverges the Cheshire Railway (64 miles) to Fitchburg, and the Rutland and Bn.r- lington Railivay (120 miles) to Burlington, Vermont. l£eeiae, 22 miles southeast of Bel- lows Falls, is one of the prettiest towns of New Hampshire in this vicinity. It is situated on a flat, east of the Ashuelot River, and is upon the route of the Cheshire Railway, by which it is con- nected with Boston and with the Con- necticut River roads. It is a place of considerable business, there being sev- eral manufacturing establishments here. The Ashnelot Railway (42 miles) runs to Fitchburg, via Troy and Ashburnham. From Bellows Falls we pass on north- ward to Windsor, 26 miles, by the Vermont and Canada and Verynevil's Stem is a mysteri- ous cavern, near the top of Mount Wil- lard, on its southern side, and opposite the Silver and the Flume cascades. Pass- ing westward from the Notch, we reach the valley of the Ammonoosuc, after a distance of foiu' miles, through ' dense woods, and enter abruptly into a spacious clearing, from which the whole mountain group bursts upon our wondermg sight. Here, upon the Gianfs Grave, an emi- nence of some 60 feet, the panorama is marvellous. In the centre of the amphi- theatre of hills Mount Washington, bar- ren, and seamed, and whitened by the winter tempests of centuries, looks down, upon the right and upon the left, on the hoary heads of Webster and Madi- son — each, on its side, the outpost of the mountain army. Tlae Amisaoaaoosiac Uiver, rising in this group of the White Mountains, and followed in the journey toward the Franconia Hills, is a stream of wonderful beauty. It falls 6,000 feet from its source on the mountain, to the Connecticut River, and is said to be the wildest and most impetuous river in New Hampshire. It abounds in rapids and cascades. lrJ9r*phie.C4:MTr(e»Ht-. ^ The Crystal Falls.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [Distances, etc. Tlie Crystal Falls, of 80 feet, xnd the Glen Ellis Falls, of 70 feet, are jn the Ellis River, the one on the left md the other on the right of the road Tom Jackson to the Glen House. The RermiVs Lake, Lake of the Clouds (the source of the Ammonoosuc River), Star Lake, and Spauldingh Lake are readily ■eached from the Tip Top House, Mount tVashington. The Pool, a supplemental or tail piece the great picture of the Flume, is a leep natural well in the solid rock. A yalk of about a mile, directly in front of he Flume House, will conduct the visitor hither. The diameter of the pool is ,bout 60 feet ; the depth to the surface )f the water is 150 feet, and the water tself extends 40 feet yet below. Some ears ago, a poor fellow was unlucky enough to fall into this Plutonian cul de ac, but he clung to a crag just above the ■/ater until ropes were lowered, and he yas, wonderful to relate, fished up alive, ihough bruised and not a little scared. 'ff'lae E&ixTille Mills are in the xtreme northern portion of the State, lid are as yet but little known. The eadiest access is by the Grand Trunk lailway and North Strafford, 36 miles orth of Gorham, and thence up the Gon- lecticut River, via Colebrook, to the \fonadnock House. Lixville Notch is 10 liles from Colebrook. We have now peeped hastily at the eading points of interest in the grand rranite Hills ; much more, of course, is to le seen than we have space to describe, even mention. Before closing our hapter, however, we give a tabular list the principal mountain-heights and bjects of interest, with their distances fom each other-. BEAEING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. From Mount Washington To Mount Adams, 4 miles, N. by E. do. Jefferson, 3 do. N. by w. do. Madison, 5 do. N. N. E. do. Clay, 1 do. N. W. do. Monroe, 1 do. 8. W. do. Franklin, 2 do. s. w. do. Pleasant, 8 do. 8. W. do. Clinton, 4 do. B. W. HEIGHT, BEARING, AND DISTANCE Of the less important White Mountains, and other mountains in the vicinity, from Mount Washington. Distance. Height. Davis's Spur, 2 miles, 5,400 feet. Notch Eange, 8 do. 4,500 do. Willey Mountain, 8 do. 4,400 do. Mount Jackson, 6 do. 4,100 do. Mount Webster, 7 do. 4,000 do. Giant's Stairs, 8 do. 8,500 do. Mount Crawford, 9 do. 8,200 do. Mount Mori ah, 7 do. 4,T00 do. Franconia Mount, 20 do. 5,000 do. Mount Lafayette, 19 do. 5,200 do. Twin Mountains, 14 do. 4,700, 5,000 do. Mount Oarigain, 14 do. 4,800 do. Moose-hillock, 81 do. 4,600 do. Saddle Mountain, 22 do. 4,000 do. Mount Kinsman, 25 do. 4,100 do. Mount Cannon, 20 do. 4,000 do. Mount Whitefaoe, 24 do. 4,100 do. Chicorua, 22 do. 3,600 do. Kearsarge, 15 do. 8,400 do. The route which the tourist and pleas- ure-seeker from New York or Boston has just travelled, via the Connecticut River, and that by Lake Champlain (see New York, in the first chapter of the Hand- book,) will of necessity have introduced him to many points of interest in the Green Mountain State (Vermont). We will now point out and briefly describe such others as he will desire to visit in the course of his summer rambles in the North. 113 Vermont.] VERMONT. [Routes. YERMONT. Vermont, named from the Frencli Vert Monts, i. e., " Green Mountains," is tlie most northwestern of the New Eng- land States. It lies between 42° 44' and 45° north latitude, and between '71° 25' and 73° 26' west longitude ; and is bounded north by Canada ; east by New Hampshire, from which it is separated by the Connecticut River ; south by Massachusetts, and west by Lake Cham- plain and New Yoi-k. It is 150 miles in length, and 85 in its greatest breadth, embracing an area of about 10,000 square miles. Vermont was first settled by Mas- sachusetts emigrants at Fort Dummer (Brattlebpro) in 1724, and was the first member of the Confederacy added to the original thirteen States, March 4, 1791. In this State occurred the battle of Ben- nington (August 16, 1777), in which the British were defeated, the State is divided into 14 counties. Montpelier is the capital, and Burlington, Rutland, Brattleboro, St. Albans, and Woodstock, are the chief towns. Population in 1860, 314,369. The thousand point* of interest among the Green Hills of Vermont have not yet received their due meed of favor from tourists, but their claims to atten- tion are now generally admitted. The mountain chain extends from near New Haven, in Connecticut, northward through Massachusetts and Vermont, into Can- ada; thougli, properly speaking, it lies in Vermont alone, where are the chief summits of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, ConnelFs Peak, Shrewsbury Mountain, South Peak, Killington Peak, Ascutney Mountain (on the Connecticut), and others. After the White Mountains of New Hamp- shire, the Green Hills rank with the noblest mountain groups east of the Rocky Mountains — with the Blue Ridge in North 114 Carolina, Georgia, and Virginia, the Al- leghanies in Pennsylvania, and the Kaats- kills and the Adirondacks in New York. Routes. — The principal routes in Ver- mont, as in the adjoining State of New Hampshire, through which we have just travelled, are those which lie along the main railway lines, traversing the State north and south, and forming in their main features a continuation of the railway system of New Hampshire and Connecti- cut, which we have followed in our jour- neyings from New York and Springfield, by the banks of the beautiful Connecticut. They are the Vermont Genh-al and Ver- mont ajid Canada Railways, affording a continuous fine from Bellows Falls, 184 miles, to Rouse's Point ; the Connecticut and Passum.psic River Railioay ; the Ver- mont Valley and Vermont and MassacJiu- setfs Railways, connecting Bellows Falls southward Vi^ith Brattleboro aud Green- field (see Connecticut R^vee and Branch- es), and linking, by means of the roads just enumerated, the great cities of the North American seaboard with Canada and the other British possessions beyond the great St. Lawrence River. The Rut- land and Burlington Railroad (120 miles) connects these cities with Bellows Falls. Visitors to the White Mountains will pro- ceed, as before directed, via Wells River to Littleton, and thence by stage, while those bound for the Green Mountains, Lake Champlain, or Montreal, will pro- ceed thither by the Central Railway, via Montpelier and Burlington. The Ver- mont Central Railway, from Burliugton eastward, via Montpelier, to the shores of the Connecticut River (White River Junc- tion), traverses the valley of the Winoo- ski, by the- banks of the Winooski River, and gives easy access to Mount Camel's Hump and Mount Mansfield. i Watekbuey.] VERMONT. [Mount Mansfield. The Valley and River of WinoosM. — The Winooski traverses almost the en- tire breadth of northern Vermont. Rising in Caledonia County, its coxirse is generally westward to Lake Champlain, 40 miles from which it passes through Montpelier. Some of its valley passages are scenes of great pastoral beauty, strongly contrasted with high mountain surroundings, the singularly-formed peak of Camel's Hump continually showing itself, sometimes barely peeping over intervening ranges, and again — as near the middle of the valley stretch — coming into full display. In places, the V/inooski is a wild turbu- lent water, dashing over stern precipices and through rugged defiles. It is found in this rough mood just above the village of Winooski, a few miles from Burling- ton, where the waters rush in rapid -and cascade through a ravine 100 feet deep. This picture is favorably seen from the railway. Passing on into the open valley lands, which succeed, Mount Camel's Hump comes finely into view, as the cen- tral and crowning point of one of the sweetest pictures of all this region. "Wsatea-toiary, nine miles from Montpelier and 113 fl-oni Bellows Falls, has a good hotel and an extensive willow- ware manufactory. From Waterbury pleasant detours, in favorable weather, may be made to Moimd Mansfield and the CameVs Hump. Motimt Camel's MMmp, the most sahent feature in the Winooski landscape, is, nest to Mansfield, the highest of all the Green Mountain peaks, having an elevation of 4,188 feet. It may be ascended, without much difficulty, from any side, though the usual point of access is at Duxbury^ from whence car- riages can pass to within three miles of the summit. The mountain is crowned by jagged, barren rocks, and the impos- ing scene which the lofty heights over- look is in no way obstructed by the forest veil, which often disappoints the hope- ful cUmber of forbidding mountain-tops. Bolton Falls afford a pleasant excursion from the Hump. MoT-imt Wlasasfield, the loftiest (4,469 feet) of the Green Hills, is 15 miles from Waterbury Station. It is easily reached from the village of Under- bill Centre on the north, or yet more easily from the pleasant village of Stowe on the south, both of which points may be reached from the Vermont Central road — Underbill from Jonesville station, and Stowe from Waterbury. Stages leave Waterbury for Stowe (10 miles) on aiTival of trains. Mansfield is 20 miles from Burlington. The views of the moun- tain itself, its cliffs and peaks, are very grand from many points in the path upward, and the panorama unfolded upon the summit is, if possible, finer than that from the Camel's Hump. Lake Cham- plain and the Adirondack peaks lie to the westward, while the White Mountains of New Hampshire are seen on the east ; and, again, the many crests of the Green Hills, with their intervening vales and lakes and villages, stretch out toward the south. In favorable conditions of the weather and atmosphere, Montreal, '70 miles distant, can be seen with the naked eye. The Mansfield House and the Sum niit House, both owned by the Mansfield Hotel Company, are well-kept houses. Price, $3 50 per day. The latter, which is nine miles (three hours) from the Mansfield House, commands a most lovely view. The Moss Glen Falls are some- times visited. They are on the north- eastern slope of Worcester Mountain, four miles from the Mansfield House. ISwi-liiij^toii, 144 miles from Bel- lows Falls, is the northern terminus of the Rutland and Burlington Railway (see p. 50). §to Altoams, 161 miles from Bel- lows Falls, 17 north of Burlington, and 3 miles east of St. Albans Bay (Lake Champlain), contains a handsome square, and a population of 5,000. Large quan- tities of butter and cheese are 'Shipped hence. The Weldon House is a weU-con- ducted hotel. Highgate and Alburg Springs, 16 miles, are reached by rail en route to Rouse's Point, New York. (For continuation of this route to St. Johns, see Montreal.) IS. 11 1 1 a n. A, — Hotels, JBardwell House, Central House. Rutland is near the western border of Vermont, south of the centre of the State, and nearly east of Whitehall, at the upper extremity of Lake Champlain. It is an important railway centre, and commands ready access to all parts of 115 KiLLiNGTON Peak.] VERMONT. [MlDDLEBURY the State and country. The Troy, Wliite- hall, and Caslleton (Rensselaer and Sara- toga) Railroad, 95 miles, unites Rutland with Troy and Albany, via Whitehall and Saratoga Springs. Rutland is also con- nected with Troy and Albany, by the Rut- land and Washington Railroad, via Eagle Bridge, 85 miles ; and yet again, via North Bennington, by the Troy and JBodon and Western Vermont roads, 84 miles. The famous Hoosick Tunnel and Falls are near the line of this route, one mile from Hoosick Falls Junction, and four from Eagle Bridge Station (see North Adams). Northward it is connected with Burling- ton, and all the routes which intersect at that point, by the Rutland and Burling- ton Railroad, 68 miles, and eastward with Bellows Falls, on the Connecticut, 52 miles, by a continuation of the same line. Rutland is a pleasant town, with a popu- lation of about 8,000, situated in the midst of some of the finest of the Ver- mont hill and valley scenery, at the foot of the western slope of the Green Mountains. Otter Creek, a most pictu- resque stream in all its course, passes by the village, and KilUngton Peak is ad- mirably seen as the leading feature in the landscape around. Milliaag'tOBa I"eal«:, rising grandly on the east of Rutland, is the third in rank of the mountains of Vermont. A visit to this peak makes a pleasant excur- sion from the neighborhood. To the foot of the mountain the distance is seven miles, and two miles more to the summit. On the north side is a perpendicular ledge of 200 feet, called Capitol Rock. Mount Ida, too, is hereabouts, and beyond Kil- Ungton Peak, as seen from Rutland, and northward are Mount Pico and Castleton Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake Champlain. 'S^lae Clavemiloia Spx-imgs, a, favorite place of resort, is a few miles south of Rutland, on the Rutland and Washington Railitoad. Stages run from West Rutland Station, 4 miles south of Rutland. The medicinal virtues of these waters, the varied and beautiful scenery, the pleasant drives around, and the excel- lent hotel accommodations, make this watering-place a very desirable summer halt. Tlie Otter Creelc Falls, at 116 Vergennes (see Middlebury), are upon the Otter Creek, about seven miles from Lake Champlain. The brook is 500 feet in width, divided by a fine island, on either side of which the fall leaps some 30 or 40 feet. There are many other beautiful cascades in the Otter Creek ; some at Middlebury, above Rutland; and a few miles below Middlebury, still others of yet greater interest. The Elgin Spring is in the neighborhood of the Otter Creek cascades. Ijalce l>niimoi*c is a beautiful water, 30 miles above Rutland. It is near the railway line to Burlington, eight miles (by stage) from Middlebury. Dunmore is a wonderfully picturesque lake, surround- ed at most points by bold hills, seen here in verdant slopes, and there in rocky bluff and chlf. The lake is about five miles in length and three in breadth, and affords capital fishing. A good summer hotel and several cottages are on the west bank. Kiake Castleton, in this neigh- borhood, is also a most interesting scene. From Rutland eastward, via Mount Holly and Ludlow, the latter station being 27 miles from Bellows Falls, the route lies amidst the beauties of the Queechy Valley, replete with deUghtful pictures of run- ning and falling waters, and of grassy meadows and wooded hills. Miil«ilel9Mi-y, 83 miles from Rut- land, via the Rutland and Burlington Railroad, is upon the Otter Ci-eek, near some fine falls on that stream, and a few miles only from Lake Dunmore. It has a population (the township) of some 4,000, and, like nearly all the villages in Vermont, is a very beautiful place, sur- rounded at all points by most attractive mountain scenery. It is distinguished a:; one of the first manufacturing towns in th.e State, and also as the seat of Middlebury College, founded in 1800. Its chief edifice is 100 feet long and four stories high, built of stone. Extensive marble quarries are in the neighborhood. SSi'asidloii, 17 miles north of Rut- land, is a flourishing to^Ti, finely watered by Otter Creek, Mill River, and Spring Pond, on which waters are good mill- seats. Minerals of fine quality are found in this town. There are here two curi- ous caverns formed' of limestone, . the Bennington.] VERMONT. [Lake Memphremagoq. largest containing two apartments, each from 16 to 20 feet square. It is entered by descending from the surface about 20 feet. JSeianisag'toia is at the meeting of the Troy and Boston and the West€r7i Vermont Railways, in the extreme south- west corner of the State. It is famous as the scene of the battle of Bennington (August 16, 1'7'7'7), in which a detachment of the British forces, under Colonel Baum, was terribly beaten by the Green Moun- tain Boys, led by the intrepid General Stark. It was upon the occasion of this memorable engagement that Stark is re- ported to have made the famous address to his troops: "See there, men ! there are the red-coats ! Before to-night they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow !" The manufactories of the United States Pottery Company at Bennington are well deserving of a visit. Fine porcelain and Parian ware are made here, the vicinage yielding the necessary materials in abun- dant and excellent supply. Bennington Centre is the county seat. North Ben- nington on Paran Creek, fotir miles north- west of Bennington Centre, is on the Western Vermont Railroad, 51 miles south of Rutland ; connections four times daily north and south, via Bennington. "Willoitg'Ii'foy I^ake is a popular resort in Orleans County, Yermont, lying upon the Canada line, 25 miles south of Newport and six from West Burke. This lake is nearly six miles long, and ex- tremely picturesque. Two peaks, respec- tively 1,950 and 1,500 feet high, rise one on either side of the lake, and command fine views. The route is by the Connecti- cut and Passumpsic Railroad (see Con- necticut Valley), via Wells River and St. Johnsbury, to West Burke, and thence by stage. It is also reached in a few hours by stage from Island Pond, on the Grand Trunk Railway. The Willoughby Lake House has good accommodations. Hialce MemplireiM.agog' is a beautiful sheet of water, situated partly in Vermont and partly in Canada. It is 35 miles long, and varies from 2 to 5 miles in width. Its shores are rock- bound, and indented with beautiful bays, between which jut out bold wooded head- lands, backed by mountain ranges. Numerous picturesque islands dot its surface. Muscalonge trout are taken here in great perfection. Newport, at the head of the lake, has two hotels and several churches, and a population of about 1,000. The MempTvremagog House is a well-kept hotel ; Bush and Pender, pro- prietors. Prospect Hill, south of the vil- lage, commands a fine view of the lake and surrounding elevations, prominent among which are OwVs Head, Mount Elephantis, Mount Orford, Jay Peak, and Wil.loughhy Mountain. The steamer " Mountain Maid," Captain Fogg, leaves the hotel pier, Newport, every morning, and plies the entire length of the lake, touching at the Mountain House for the convenience of travellers wishing to ascend Owl's Head or Bear Mountain. Jay Peak, 13 miles west of Newport, should be visited, if time permits. It is 4,018 feet high, and commands a fine view of the entire range of the Green Mountains, including Mount Mansfield, Camel's Hump, and Killington Peak, Ascutney Mountain, near Windsor, White and Fran- conia Mountains, Kearsarge, Lake Cham- plain, and the Adirondacks. OwVs Head rises 3,000 feet above the lake, and commands, in clear weather, an extensive view. Tourists can either proceed to Montreal or Quebec from the foot of the lake, or return to Newport on the boat the same day at 6 p. m. At and near the Mountain House are the best fishing- grounds on the lake. Boats supplied on application at the hotel. In ascending the lake, Indian Poim, the Twin Sisters, and Province Island are passed within a few miles of Newport. East of Province Island and near the shore is Tea- Table Island, a charming rural picnic spot, and on the western shore the boundary-line between Ver- mont and Canada strikes the lake. Pilch's Bay and Wlietstone Island, Magoon Point, Round and Minnow Islands are in the vicinity of the Mountain House, and afford pleasant picnic and excursion points •for visitors sojourning there. Skinner's Jsland and Cave, said to have been the haunt of Uriah Skinner, " the bold smug- gler of Magog, " during the War of 1812, are also near by. Balance Rock, on the southern shore of Long Island, is fre- quently visited. The eastern shore of the lake, in this vicinity, is much im- IIT Georgeville.] VERMONT. [Magog. proved and adoi'ned with some handsome summer residences, among which are those belonging to Judge Day, William Molson, and Hugh Allen, of Montreal. Mount Elephantis (Sugar Loaf) is seen to advantage from Allen's Landing. Concert Pond, west of Mount Ele- phantis, abounds in brook-trout, and at- tracts numerous visitors. GeorgeviUs, 20 miles from Newport and 12 from Magog, has a hotel and sev- eral stores. Knowllon's, on the opposite 118 (west) side of the lake, is the landing for passengers to Stanstead and Montreal. The route thither is by stage to Water- loo 20 miles, and thence by rail 42 miles to St. John's and 63 to Montreal. A better route, though a longer stage ride, for those who do not care to follow the beaten track of travel and visit Mon- treal first, is to proceed by the steamer on to Magog (Outlet Village), and thence by stage to Sherbrooke, en route to Rich- mond and Quebec. (See Magog.) JMaine.] MAINE. [Maine. MAIISTE Maine occupies the extreme eastern portion of New England, and is the bor- der State of the Union in that direction, with the British province of New Bruns- wick on the north and northeast, and the province of Lower Canada on the north- west. It has three distinct topographical aspects — in the comparatively level and somewhat sandy and marshy character of the southern portion, lying Jjack 20 miles from the Atlantic coast ; in the pleasant hill and valley features of the in- terior ; and in the rugged, mountainous, and wilderness regions of the north. It is the largest of the New England States, being 230 miles long and about 160 broad, embracing an area of upward of twenty millions of acres. The history of the State is interesting, dating as far back as 1604, when a par- tial settlement was effected on the pres- ent site of Phippsburg, but which was afterward abandoned. In 1712 the State passed into the hands of the Eng- lish. It long remained under the juris- diction of Massachusetts, but finally was admitted into the American Union in 1820. It is divided into 16 counties, and contained in 1860 a population of 626,952. Its principal towns are Port- land, Bangor, Belfast, Biddeford, Bath, and Lewiston. Augusta is the capital. A great portion of the State is yet covered by dense forests, the utilization of which is the chief occupation and sup- port of its inhabitants. The most fertile lands he in the central southern regions, between the Penobscot River on the east and the Kennebec on the west, and in the valley borders of other waters. The leading objects of interest to tourists are the mountain ranges, which are bold and imposing — one summit, that of Katahdin, having an elevation of 5,385 feet above the level of the sea. The lakes are nu- merous, sometimes of great extent, and often very beautiful. They are to be found throughout the State, and more especially among the mountains in the north. Indeed, it is estimated, that one- tenth part of the whole area of Maine is covered by water. The rivers are nu- merous and large, and present every- where scenes of great and varied beauty. The Atlantic coast, which occupies the whole southern line of the State, is the finest in the Union, in its remarkably bold, rocky character, and in its beauti- ful harbors, bays, islands, and beaches. The sea-islands of Maine are over 400 in number ; many of them are very large, and covered by fertile and inhabited lands. The climate, though marked by extremes, both of heat and cold, is yet everywhere most healthful ; its rigor being materially modified by the proxim- ity of the ocean. ILiaBies. — The most interesting route for the tourist in Maine to take is per- haps that which leads through the hills, lakes, and forests of the north ; but we warn him, beforehand, that it will not be one of ease. Rugged roads and scant physical comforts will not be his most severe trial ; for, in many places, he will not find road or inn at all, but must trudge along painfully on foot, or by rude skiff over the lakes, and trust to his rifle and his rod to suj)ply his larder. In these wildest regions the exploration may be made with great satisfaction by a party well provided with all needed tent equi- page, and with all the paraphernalia of the chase ; for deer, and the moose, and the wild fowl are abundant in the woods, and the finest fish may be freely taken in the waters. Still he may traverse most ot 119 Portland.] MAINE. [Portland. the mountain lands and lakes by the roads and paths of the lumbermen, who have iavaded all the region ; and he may bivouac, as comfortably as should con- tent an orthodox forester, in the humble shanties erected by the hardy backwoods- maa. The mountains of Maine are broken and distinct peaks. A range, which seems to be an irregular continua- tion of the White Hills of New Hamp- shire, extends along the western side of the State for many miles ; and, verging toward the northeast, terminates in Mars Hill. This chain divides the waters which flow north into St. John's River from those which pass southward to the Atlantic. Many beautiful lakes lie with- in this territory. The wilderness of north- ern New York (see Adirondacks) has many features in common with the north- ern mountain and lake region of Maine. The internal improvements of the State are few, but important. Portland is the chief commercial city and railway centre of the State, and thence diverge the lead- ing routes to every section within its lim- its and in the neighboring provinces of Canada. l*ortlaii«l. — Hotels, the Prehle House, the United Slaies, the American, the Mm. RoTTTES. — From Boston, 107 miles, by the Eastern Railway, via Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, Portsmouth, New Haven, etc. ; or by the Boston and Maine route, 111 miles, via Reading, Lawrence, An- dover, Haverhill, Exeter, Dover, etc. (see Boston) ; or by steamer daily. From Montreal, 293 miles, by the Grand Trunk Railway. Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine, is handsomely situated on a pen- insula, occupying the ridge and side of a high point of land, in the southwest ex- tremity of Casco Bay, and, on approach- ing it from the ocean, is seen to great ad- vantage. The harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage being protected on every side by land, whilst the water is deep, and communi- cation with the ocean direct and con- venient. It is defended by Forts Preble, l^cammell, and Gorges, and dotted over with lovely islands. These islands afford most delightful excursions, and are among the greatest attractions of the 120 vicinity. On the highest point of the peninsula is an observatory, '70 feet in height, commanding a fine view of the city, harbor, and islands in the bay. The misty forms of the White Mountains, 60 miles distant, are discernible in clear weather. The original name of Portland was Muchigonne. It was first settled by the whites as an English colony in 1632, just two centuries before the charier of the present city was granted. On the night of the 4th of July, 1866, a fire occurred which swept away nearly one- half of the entire business portion of the city. Portland is elegantly built, and the streets beautifully shaded and embel- lished with trees, and so profusely, that there are said to be no less than 3,000 of these rural delights. Congress Street, previous to the fire the main highway, follows the ridge of the peninsula through its entire extent. Among the public buildings of Portland, the City Hall (rebuilding), the Court House, and some of the churches, are worthy of particular attention. The Society of Natural His- tory, organized 1843, possesses a fine cabinet, containing specimens of the or- nithology of the State, more than 4,000 species of shells, and a rich collection of mineralogical and geological specimens, and of fishes and reptiles. The Athe- nwum, incorporated in 1826, has a library of 12,000 volumes ; and the Mercantile Library possesses, also, many valuable books. The Marine Hospital, erected in 1855, at a cost of .$80,000, is an impos- ing edifice. Brown & Co.'s extensive sugar refinery, wholly destroyed by tl^e late fire, has been rebuilt, and will shortly be in operation. The city is being rebuilt as rapidly as possible, and it is hoped that by 1868 only faint traces of the great fire will remain. Population, 30,000. The vicinity has several fine drives. (See Cape Elizabeth.) The leading routes of travel from Port- land are the Grand Trimh (Canada), Portland, Saco, and Portsmovth ; Port- land and Kennebec ; Portland and Bangor (Maine Central), and the York and Cum- berland. The last-named is a short line, extending from Portland south, via Mor- rill's, Saccarappa, Buxton Centre, to Saco Piiver, a distance of 18 miles. 'A r Route I.] MAINE. [BlUDEFOKD. MOUTE I. PORTLAND TO GORHAM AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. ( Via Grand Trunk (Canada) Railway^ This important thoroughfare connects the navigable waters of Portland harbor with the commercial capital of Canada. Its route passes through a fertile and productive country, generally under fine cultivation, the streams in its vicinity abounding in water privileges of the first importance. From Portland, pass- ing onward, five miles, through Fal- mouth, on thePresumpscot Kiver, to Dan- ville Junction, 27 miles {Androscoggin Railway), to the valley of Royal's River and the valley of the Little Androscog- gin, it strikes and crosses the latter river at Mechanic Falls, 36 miles from Portland, at which place the Buckfield Branch Railroad, connects with it. Pur- suing its course upward, it passes in the vicinity of the " Mills " on its way to Paris Cape, in the neighborhood of South Paris, drawing in upon it the travel and business of that rich and populous region. Still following up the valley of the Little Androscoggin, passing on the way two important falls, it reaches Bry- ant's Pond (62 miles), the source of that river. This point is 15 miles from Rum- ford Falls, on the Great Androscoggin, one of the most valuable and available water-powers in the State. Passing hence into the valley of Alder stream, the route strikes the Great Androscoggin, near Bethel, 70 miles from Portland. Crossing that stream, it follows up its picturesque and romantic valley, bor- dered by the highest mountains in New England, till, in its course of about 20 miles from Bethel, it reaches Gorham, New Hampshire, the point of departure for Mount Washington, eight miles dis- tant. From this point this famous shrine may be approached and ascended with more ease, in a shorter distance, and less time, than from any other accessible quarter in the vicinity of the White Hills. (See White Mountain Routes.) Gor- harin is seven miles distant from Berlin Falls, the greatest waterfall in New Eng- land, where the waters of the Great An- droscoggin, larger in volume than the waters of the Connecticut, descend nearly 200 feet in a distance of about two miles. From the valley of the Androscoggin the road passes into the v-aUey of the Con- necticut, reaching the banks of that river at ^R^orth Stratford, New Hampshire. Following up this rich and highly pro- ductive valley 32 miles, the road reaches the parallel of 45° north latitude, the boundary-line between the United States and Canada. The route thence lies through what are known as the Eastern Townships of Canada, via Richmond to Quebec, and up the St. Lawrence, via Montreal, to Toronto on Lake Ontario, where it con- nects with other routes for Lake Superior and all parts of the great West. (See Geand Trunk Railway.) MOUTE II, PORTLAND TO SAOO, AND PORTS- MOUTH, N. H. {Via Portland, Saco, and Portsmouth Railroad.) Stations. — Portland ; Cape Elizabeth, 2 miles ; Scarborough, 6 ; West Scar- borough, 9 ; Saco, 13 ; Biddeford, 15 ; Kennebunk Port, 19; Kennebunk, 23; Wells, 28 ; North Berwick, 34 ; South Berwick Junction, 38 ; Junction Great Falls Branch, 41 ; Elliott, 45 ; Kittery, 50 ; Portsmouth, 52 ; Boston, 108. Cape Elizabeth {i^o miles) is a delight- ful summer resort, with excellent bathing and fishing privileges. Bang's, and other islands in the bay, are easily reached. The Collage, and several private board- ing-houses are open during the season — June to September. Saco (13 miles) is a flourishing man- ufacturing village on the east bank of the Saco River, six miles from its mouth. A fall of 42 feet in the river, at this point, furnishes one of the best water-powers in the State. Eleven cotton-mills, contain- ing 55,000 spindles, are in operation here. Laurel Hill Cemetery, on the Mount Au- burn plan, is worth visiting. Two good hotels. Biddeford (15 miles), on the opposite or south side of the Saco River, is a growing place. The population of both villages is upward of 15,000. 121 Brunswick.] MAINE. [AUUUSTA. Kennchunk (23 miles) is noted for its ship-building, carried on mainly at the " Port," at the mouth of the Kenuebunk River. South Berwick (38 miles) is on Sal- mon Falls River, at the junction of the Boston and Maine Railway^ and three miles from the junction of the main line with the Great Falls and Gonivay Jiail- ua,g-og: lies partly in Maine and partly in New Hampshire. Its length is about 12 miles, and its breadth varies from one to five miles. The outlet of Umbagog and the Margallaway River form the Andi'oscoggin. AjatlFOScog'S'lm sand. Moose- todcsiogiamtic SjaLces are in the vicinity of Umbagog. Selsag'O 5*oiatl, a beautiful lake 12 miles long, and from seven to eight miles broad, is about 20 miles from Port- land, on a route thence to Conway and the White Moimtains. It is connected with Portland by the Cumberland and Ox- ford canal. T'lae E"eaaolJSC4>t, the largest and most beautiful of the rivers of Maine, may be reached daily from Boston and Port- land, by steamer, as far up as Bangor, and also by railway from Portland to Bangor. It is formed by two branches, the east and 1 The Keknebkc] MAINE. [Mount Desert Island. I the west, which unite near the centre of the State, and flow in a general soulh- I west course to Bangor, 60 miles from the I sea, and at the head of navigation. Large i vessels can ascend to Bangor, and small steamboats navigate the river yet above. , At Banger the tide rises to the great height of 1*7 feet, an elevation which is ' supposed to be produced by the wedge- li shaped form of the bay, and by the cur- i] rent from the Gulf Stream. The length !| of the Penobscot, from the junction of the !| east and the west branches is 135 nliles, s or measuring from the source of the west I branch, it is 300 miles ; though, as far as II the tourist is concerned, it is only 60 J miles — being that portion between Bangor i and the ocean. This part, then, the Penob- scot proper, ranks, in its pictorial at- 1 tractions, among the finest river scenery of the United States. In all its course there are continual points of great beauty, and very often the shore rises in striking and even grand lines and proportions. TIae MenBielsec ISivei- is in the western part of the State, extending from Moosehead Lake, 150 miles, to the sea. It makes a descent in its passage of a thousand feet, thus affording a great and valuable water-power. The scenery of the Kennebec, though pleasant, is far less striking than that of the Penobscot. Its shores are thickly lined with towns and villages, among which are Augusta, the capital, Bath, Hallowell, and Water- ville. Tlie Aiidroscog'g-in. ISiver is a fine stream, flowing from Lake TJm- bagog, partly in ISTew Hampshire, but chiefly through the southwestern corner of Maine, into the Kennebec, 20 miles from the ocean. Tlae §ac© lliveB.* rises in the White Mountains, passes through the famous Notch, and flows into the Atlantic. Mommt l>e@ci-t lsla.Ea«l. — A summer trip to Mount Desert Island has of late years been a pleasant treat to American landscape painters, and a visit thither might be equally grateful to the general tourist. The vigorous and varied rock-bound coast of New England can be nowhere seen to greater advantage. A mountain, 2,000 feet high, presents a striking appearance; Mount Desert Isl- and is an out-of-the-way nook of beauty ■in Frenchman's Bay, east of the mouth of the Penobscot River. It is 40 miles from Bangor, and may be reached from Boston by boat, via Rockville, and thence by another steamer, on to Bucksport (on the Penobscot), and thence by stagey via Ellsworth, or from Castine, on the Penob- scot Bay, hard by. If the visitor here cannot sketch the bold, rocky cliffs, he can beguile the fish to his heart's content. 125 Ne-w Jersey.] NEW JERSEY. [New Jersey. NEW JERSEY, Settlements were made in this State at Bergen, by the Dutch, soon after their arrival in New York. In 1627 a Swedisli colony was founded near the shores of the Delaware, in the southwestern part of the State. A droll account of the quar- rels of these Swedish folk with the Dutch- men of New Amsterdam may be found in "Diedrich Knickerbocker's" solemn " History " of the Amsterdam colonists. New Jersey is one of the original thirteen States. She did her part nobly in the long War of Independence, and her his- torical record is of the most eventful .and interesting character — the famous battles of Trenton, of Princeton, and of Monmouth, at all of which Washington was present and victorious, occurred with- in her limits. Morristown was the winter camp of the American arniy in 1776 and 1777. New Jersey is bounded on the north by New York, on the east by the Atlan- tic Ocean and Hudson River, south by Delaware Bay, and west by Delaware River. It is 163 miles long, and from 40 to 70 miles wide, and includes an area of 8,235 square miles. Though small in extent, New Jersey yet presents many natural attractions to the traveller. Her sea-coast abounds in favorite bathing and sporting resorts ; much visited by the citi- zens of New York, Philadelphia, and Bal- timore. Among these summer haunts are Cape May, Long Branch, Sandy Hook, Atlantic City, Deal, Squam Beach, and Tuckerton. In the southern and central portions of this State the country is flat and sandy ; in the north are some ranges of picturesque hills, interspersed with charming lakes and ponds. Some of the Alleghany ridges traverse New Jersey, forming the spurs known as Schooley's Mountain, Trowbridge, the Ramapo, and 126 Second Mountains. In the northwest- ern part of the State are the Blue Moun- tains. The Neversink Hills, rising nearly 400 feet on the Atlantic side, are usually the first and last land seen by ocean voy- agers as they approach and leave New York. The celebrated Palisade Rocks of the Hudson River are in this State. NEW YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. There are three routes between the cities of New York and Philadelphia, known respectively as the Nevj Jersey^ the Camden andAmboy, and the Raritan and Delaware Bay Railways. The first is the most expeditious ; the two latter, being partly by water, are most agreeable during the summer months. MOUTE I. ( Yia the IsTew Jersey Rail/way.') This route passes over the New Jersey, and the Philadelphia and Trenton Rail- roads. Trains leave New York (by ferry across the Hudson from the foot of Cortland Street to Jersey City) several times each day. Distance, 88 miles. Time (express train), three to four hours. Stations. — Jersey City, 1 mile; New- wark, 9; Elizabeth, 15; Rahway, 19; Uniontown, 23 ; Metuchin, 27 ; New Brunswick, 82 ; Dean's Pond, 39 ; Kings- ton, 45 ; Princeton, 48 ; Trenton, 58 ; Bristol, 69 ; Cornwells, 74 ; Tacony, 80 ; Kensington, 86 ; Philadelphia, 88. This route, lying as it does between the two greatest cities on the continent, is an immense thoroughfare, over which floods of travel pour unceasingly by day and by night. The region is populous I Jersey City.] NEW JERSEY. [New Brunswick. and opulent, and necessarily covered with towns, villages, and villas ; for 20 or 25 miles from each terminus, over which the two cities spread their suburbs, the crowded trains are passing and repassing continually. Jersey City. — Hotel, American, 9 and 11 Montgomery Street. Jersey City is on the Hudson, opposite the city of New York, with which it is connected by numerous ferries. The present pop- ulation is about 35,000. Jersey City is the New York terminus of the Philadel- phia and New York and Erie Railroad routes, and of the Morris Canal. It is also the berth of the Cunard and Bremen lines of Atlantic steamers. (For Ho- boken, Weehawken, and other suburban villages on the Hudson, see Steamboat Route from New York to Albany). Leaving Jersey City, the track over which we pass for two miles is that used also by the great Erie Railway, which is traversed by the thousands daily travel- ling between the seaboard and the great West and South. Ne^vsajrli:. — Hotel, JSfewarJc. — New- ark, nine miles from New York and 18 from Philadelphia, was settled in 1666. It is built on an elevated plain, upon the right bank of the Passaic River, lour miles from its entrance into Newark Bay, and is regularly laid out in wide streets, cross- ing at right angles. Many portions of the city are very elegant, and in its most recherche quarter are two charming parks, filled with noble elms. Broad Street, its main thoroughfare, is a splendid avenue. Among its principal public edifices are the Court HoiKe, the Post-Office, the Custom House, City Hall, and several of the banks. Of the literary institutions, the most noteworthy are the Library Association, the State Historical Society, and the New- ark Academy. From the grounds at- tached to the Academy, an extended view of the Passaic valley is had. The city contains over '70 churches, some of which are very interesting struc- tures, as the Catholic, on Washington Street ; the Preahyierian, near the lower park, and in High Street ; the Methodist, on Market and Broad Streets ; Grace (Episcopal), and the Baptist, on Academy Street. The building occupied by the Mutual Benefit Life Insurance Company is one of the finest in the State. The city is divided into 12 wards, and possesses some 40 public schools, which are attended by more than 9,000 pupils. It is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop. Newark is distinguished for its manu- factures of jewelry, carriages, and leather. It has upward of 550 manufactories. Steamboats as well as railways connect it with New York. It is the eastern terminus of the Morris and Essex Rail- road, and the Morris Canal passes through it on its way to Jersey City. The New- ark and Bloomfield Railway connects v/ith the pleasant suburban towns of Roseville, Bloomfield, and Mont Clair. The vicinity has many pleasant drives and walks, among which is Leviellyn Park, a once famous place of resort. Elisatoetli. — Hotel, American. Elizabeth {15' miles) is situated upon Elizabethtown Creek, two miles from its entrance into Staten Island Sound. It was once the capital and chief town of the State. Here the Central Railway intersects the Neio Jersey Railway to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the South. It was first settled in 1665. It was the home of General Scott after his retire- ment from active life. Population, 14,000. Mala-w^say, — Hotel, De Graio^s. Rahway (19 miles) lies on both sides of the Rahway River. It is noted for its manufacture of carriages, stoves, hats, earthenware, etc. Some 3,000 vehicles are annually sent hence to the Southern market. It was settled in 1*720. Pop- ulation, 8,000. Ne"w Briiiiswiclc. — Williams'' s Hotel. New Brunswick (32 miles), found- ed 1*770, is pleasantly situated at the head of steamboat navigation on the Raritan River. This is the seat of Rut- ger^s College and School, and also of a Theological Seminary of the Dutch Re- formed Church, known as Hertzog Theo- logical Hall. The streets on the river are narrow and crooked, and the ground low ; but those on the upper bank are wide, and many of the dwellings are very neat and even elegant, being surrounded by fine gardens. From the site of Rutger's Col- lege on the hill there is a wide prospect, terminated by mountains on the north 127 Princeton.] NEW JERSEY. [Trenton. ''^_ and by Earitan Bay on the east. The Delaware and Raritan Canal extends from New Brunswick to Bordentown, on the Delaware River, 42 miles. Tiiis canal is 75 feet wide and seven feet deep, and is navigable by sloops and steam- boats of 150 tons. This fine work cost $2,500,000. The railway here crosses the Raritan River. Population, 14,000. Passengers for Dean's Pond, Kingston, and Rocky Hill, leave the main line here. I^riaicetoii, built on an elevated ridge two and a half miles north of Princeton Junction, 48 miles from New York, is a pleasant little town of literary and historical interest. It is the seat of Princeton College, one of the oldest and most famous educational establishments in tlie country. It was founded by the Pres- byterians at Elizabethtown, 1*756, and re- moved to Princeton in 1*757. The col- lege building, which is known as Nassau Hall, is a spacious edifice, 176 feet by 50 feet, and four stories high. The Hall stands in the centre of spacious grounds fronting on Main Street. Peale's picture of Washmgton is an object of consid- erable interest. Here also is the Theo- logical Seminary of the Presbyterian Church, founded in_ 1812. About one and a quarter miles south of Princeton is the battle-ground where was fought the memorable conflict of January 3, 1777, between the American forces under Gen- eral Washington, and those of the Brit- ish under Lieutenant-Colonel Mawhood, in which the latter were vanquished. The house in which General Mercer died, near the Trenton turnpike, is still pointed out. Treaitoia. — Hotels, Trenton House, American House. Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, is on the left bank of the Delaware, 30 miles from Philadelphia and 58 from New York. The city is regularly laid out, and has many fine stores and handsome dwellmgs. It is divided into North and South Trenton by the Assumpsiuk Creek. The State House, which is 100 feet long and 60 wide, is built of stone, and stuc- coed so as to resemble granite. Its situa- tion on the Delaware is very beautiiul, commanding a fine view of the river and vicinity. Here is the State Lunatic Asylum, founded in 1848, and also the 128 State Penitentiary. Wliite Hall, used for barracks by the Hessians in 1776, is still to be seen on the south side of Front Street. Trenton has three daily and two other newspapers, 20 churches, and a State Library. The city is lighted with gas. Thirty thousand dollars have been subscribed for a race-course, similar to that at Paterson, N. J. The Delaware is here crossed by a handsome covered bridge, 1,100 feet long, resting on five arches, supported on stone piers, which is considered a fine specimen of its kind. It has two carriage-wa3'S, one of which is used by the railroad. The Delaware and Raritan Canal, forming an, inland navigation from New Bruns- wick, passes through Trenton to the Delavi'are at Bordentown. It is supplied by a navigable feeder, taken from the Delaware, 23 miles north of Trenton. It was completed in 1834, at a cost of 82,500,000. This canal passes through the city, and connects it with New York and Philadelphia. At this point the New Jersey Railroad, which we have thus far travelled, 57 miles from New York, ends, and the Philadelphia and Trenton, upon which we make the rest of our journey, begins. A branch road, six miles long, connects with the Camden and Amboy Railroad at Bordentown. The Belvidere, Delaware, and Flemington Railroad runs hence, 63 miles, to Belvidere, in the in- terior, along the Delaware River. The suburban villages of Bloomshury, Lam- beth, and 3Iill Hill are now included in the corporate limits of Trenton. Trenton was first settled by Phineas Pemberton and others about 1680, and was riamed in 1720 after Colonel Wilham Trent, Speaker of the House of Assembly. The Battle of Trenton was fought December 26, 1776. On Christmas night, in 1776, and during the most gloomy period of the Revolutionary War, General Wash- ington crossed the Delaware with 2,500 men, and early on the morning of the 26th commenced an attack upon Trenton, then in possession of the British. So sudden and imespected was the assault, that of the 1,500 German troops en- camped there, 906 were made prisoners. This successful enterprise revived the spirit of the nation, as it was the first victory gained over the German soldiers. |i South Ambot.] NEW JERSEY. [Burlington. General Mercer, a brave American officer, was mortally wounded in the attack. It was here, upon Trenton Bridge, that occurred the memorable and beautiful re- ception of Washington, while on his way from New York to Mount Vernon, 12 jyears after the glorious victory. Tren- lOn was selected as the State capital in ilY90, and incorporated in 1792. Its resent population is nearly 20,000. ere the traveller can take the Branch .oad, sis miles to Bordentown, and ihence by Camden and Amboy line, or ontinue, as we now do, by Philadelphia md Trenton route. (See Philadelphia ^{OUTES.) ISristol, Pennsylvania (69 miles), ibunded in 169'7, is a beautiful village on ;he west bank of the Delaware, nearly op- josite Burlington. The Delaware division )f the Pennsylvania Canal, which commu- licates with the Lehigh at Easton, termi- pates here in a spacious basin on the Del- fware. It has a valuable mineral spring. •aily communication with Philadelphia y boat. Population, 3,500. Tacooiy and Kensington are within the orporate limits of Philadelphia. MOUTE II. Ni:W YOSK TO PIIILADELPniA. ^Camden and Amioy {or steamboat) Jioute.) ] From pier No. 1, N. E., New York, ;|aily (Sundays excepted) for South Am- )oy, 30 miles, and thence by rail. Stations. — New York, South Amboy, iO miles ; South Eiver, 38 ; Spotswood, :0 ; Jamcsburg, 44 ; Prospect Plains, 46 ; jpranberry Station, 48 ; Eightstown, 51 ; Vindsor, 54 ; Newtown, 6*7 ; Bordentown, ■4 ; Burlington, 74 ; Beverley, V*/ ; De- anco, 79; Palmyra, 84; Camden, 91; Philadelphia, 92. In the summer season no more delight- ul journey can be made than the first 30 liles of our present route across the avely bay and harbor of New York, to outh Amboy, past the villaged and illaed shores of Staten Island and the laritan River. (See New Yoek and ''ICINITT.) Soutit Amljoy (30 miles) is the steamboat landing-place, and the northern terminus of the Camden and Amboy Rail- road. It is at the mouth of the Earitan River, at the entrance of Earitan Bay. Upon arriving here, passengers are trans- ported in a short space of time from the steamboat to the railroad cars ; and, after a slight detention, proceed on the journey up a steep ascent from the river, and soon enter a deep cutting through the sand-hills. The road is then continued through a barren and uninter- esting region of country toward the Del- aware at Bordentown. Jamesburg (44 miles). Junction of Freehold and Jamesburg Railroad. ISortleiatO't^ia (64 miles), is situated on a steep sand-bank, on the east side of the Delaware. The principal objects of in- terest here are the extensive grounds and mansion fonnerly occupied by the late Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain. Al- though in a commanding situation, the view is greatly obstructed from the river. This is a favorite resort of the Philadelphians during the summer season. The Delaware and Earitan Canal here connects with the Delaware Eiver. A branch road, six miles long, on the bank of the canal and river, unites this tov/n with Trenton. Bordentown was incor- porated in 1825, and has a population of 6,000. Nearly opposite Bordentown once stood the Palace, the country seat of William Penn. It was constiaicted in 1683, at an expense of $35,000. • Baai-liEig-tois. — Hotels, City, Bel- doi's. Burlington (74 miles) is a port of entry en the Delaware, 19 miles from Philadel- phia. Burlington College, founded by the Episcopalians in 1846, is located here, and there are besides, upon the banks of the river, two large boarding- schools, one for each sex. Burlington is connected with Philadelphia by steam- boat, and is a place of great summer re- sort thence. It was settled in 1667, was originally called New Beverly, and has a population of 6,000. A bi-anch road to Mount Holly, six miles. Beverly, built on the banks of the Del aware since 1848, has now a population of 1,500. It is a suburb of Philadelphia distant 15 miles. Camden is at the terminus of our 129 Camden.] NEW JERSEY. [Long Bi;ancii. route, upon the east bank of the Delaware Eiver, immediately opposite the city of Philadelphia, with which there is con- stant communication by ferry. It is the terminus also of the West Jersey and Camden ami Atlantic Railroads. It was chartered in 1831, and already contains nearly 20,000 inhabitants. The vicinity abounds in fruit and vegetable gardens. (See Philadelphia and Yicinity.) ROUTE III. NEW YORK TO LONG BBANCff, AT- LANTIC CITY, AND PHILADELPHIA. ( Via, Baritan and Delaware Bay Rail/way.) This is a pleasant and expeditious summer route to Red Bank, Long Branch, Deal, Squam Beach, Tom's River, and At- lantic City. From Pier No. 32 N. R. by steamboat " Jesse Hoyt," to Port Mon- mouth, and thence by rail. Stations. — Highlands, 22 miles; Red Bank, 26; Shrewsbury, 28; Oceanport, 31; Long Branch, 34; Squankum, 40; Manchester, 54; Jackson Junction (branch) to Atlantic City, 93 ; Camden, 112. Atlantic City. — Hotels, the United States, Surf House. Atlantic City, 61 miles from Philadel- phia, and 133 from New York, may be reached from the former city twice daUy by the Camden and Atlaoitic Railroad. It has fine accommodation for bathing, and is a place much resorted to by visitors from Philadelphia and New York. The season at Atlantic City and Cape May opens about July 10th, and closes Sep- tember lath. Kj o m g' Kraiacli. — Hotels, Stet- son s, the Continental, the Ifansion. Among the more modern watering- places of America, Long Branch deserv- edly occupies a prominent position. Its special recommendations are its proximity to New York, its easy and pleasant access, and the invigorating influences of its ocean breezes, combined with its bathing privileges. The hotel accommodation of the place, which as late as 1861 was al- most wholly monopolized by the Man- sion, Howland, and United States, has now been so greatly extended as to em- 130 brace five large first-class hotels, and as many more of smaller dimensions, but scarcely less liberal fare and appoint- ments, well adapted to the tastes and wants of private families. Stetson'' s, at the south end of the main avenue or drive, has few equals as a watering-place hotel in the country. During the height of the season it is thronged with the beauty and fashion of the metropolis. Band of music nightly. There is admirable sport in this vicinity for the angler. The Shrewsbury River, on the one side, and the ocean on the other, swarm with all the dehcate varieties of fish with which our markets abound. . Slirewshury, Red Ra7iJc, and Tinton Fcdls, in the vicinity of the Branch, are also places much resorted to. A favorite route to Long Branch is by the Seaside Railway. Steamer " William Cook," from foot of Barclay Street, twice daily during the season. Time to the Branch, one and a half hours. BOUTE IV. ( Via Jersey Central Railway.) Prom foot of Liberty Street, New York (pier 15 N. R.) to Jersey City, and thence by rail, via Bergen Point. Stations. — Elizabeth, 13 miles ; Craw- ford, 11 ; Scotch Plains, 22 ; Plainfield, 24 ; Somerville, 36 ; Whitehouse, 46 ; High Bridge, 54 ; Hampton Junction, 59 ; Phillipsburg, 74 ; Easton, Pa., 75, and the West. ISergen (4 miles) is a pleasant vil- lage in Hudson County, on the summit of Bergen Ridge. It was first settled in 1616. Bergen Point, reached by car or steamboat from New York, is pleasantly situated on the Kills. It is a place of much resort during the summer months. The Latouretle House is open for visit- ors from June 15th. Scotcla l?laiMS (22 miles) con- tains a church edifice and upward of 100 dwellings, mostly occupied by visitors during the summer months. l"laisi.fieltl (24 miles), m Union County, is pleasantly situated on Green Brook, 20 miles west-southwest of New- ark. It is surrounded by a rich farming MOEKISTOWN.] NEW JERSEY. [Paterson. country. It was laid out in lYSS. Popula- tion, during the summer months, 4,500. Somerville (36 miles), South Branch Railroad to Flemington. Kew Hampton (59 miles) is in Hunter- idon County, 16 miles north-northwest of I Flemington. This is the southern termi- jnus of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railway of Pennsylvania, which [leads through the Water Gap to Scranton, Great Bend, Binghamton, and the North. 1SIoo]iis1>ni*y (6*7 miles) is pleas- lantly situated on the Muscanetcong JRiver, on the boundary-line of Warren land Hunterdon Counties. ROUTE V. NEW YORK TO 3I0RRIST0WN AKD HA CKETTSTO WN. {Via Mot^is and Essex Railway.) (Feret foot of Barclay Street, New lYork.) Stations. — Hoboken, If miles ; New- ,rk, 10 ; Orange, 14 ; South Orange, 16 ; illburn, 19 ; Summit, 23 ; Chatham, 26 ; adison, 28 ; Morristown, 32 ; Morris lains, 34 ; Denville, 39 ; Eockaway, 41 ; over, 44 ; Drakesville, 49 ; Stanhope, 4; Waterloo, 57 ; Hackettstown, 62. MorristOTTM. (32 miles), the capital f Morris County, is splendidly situated on ,he Whippany River. It is noteworthy s having been the headquarters of the 'American army on two occasions. The ibouse occupied by General Washington j.s still pointed out. The town contains a ijne pubhc square, court-house, and sev- ,bral churches. Population, 4,000. Dover (44 miles), on the Rockaway ftiver, 12 miles beyond Morristown, las extensive manufactories of iron and iteel. li Maclicttsto'^vii. (62 mOes) is the ;erminus of the Morj'is and Essex Rail- oay. It is on the Muscanetcong Creek, icar the Morris Canal, about 50 miles lorth of Trenton. It was incorporated n 1852, and has extensive flouring-mills. MOUTE VI. ( Via Northern New Jersey Railway.) Trains leave Jersey City four times laily for Bergen, New Durham, Allerton's, Hackensack Junction, Fort Lee, Engle- wood, Cresskill, Closter, Tappan, and Piermont. Distance, 25 miles. Time, one and a half hours. HacIceEasacfe, the chief town of Bergen County, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Hackensack River, from which it derives its name, 13 miles north by west of New York. It contains about 250 dwellings and several church edifices. S^atersoiBj the capital of Passaic County, is finely situated on the right bank of the Passaic River, immediately below the falls. It is 12 miles from New York, by the Erie Raihcay. It was founded in 1*791. In point of population it is the thii-d city of the State, in manu- factures the second. Many of its cotton manufactories are quite extensive. One of the most extensive silk-mills in the United States is located here, employing nearly 800 hands. It is connected by bridges with the village of Manchester. In the neighborhood of the city is a fine race-course, largely frequented by patrons of the turf. Population, 20,000. The Falls of the JPassaic, though less frequent- ed of late than formerly, attract an- nually large numbers of visitors. The total descent of the river is 72 feet, afford- ing a fine water-power. At Seacaucus, on the plank-road from Hoboken to Pater- son and about five miles from the former point, are the race-course of the Hudson County Association, and the training- stables of Colonel McDaniels. Cape Klay. — Hotels : Coiigress Hall, under the proprietorship of J. F. Cake &Co., has been extended and im- proved. It now embi-aces the former grounds, with the addition of the Ocean House grounds, giving a sea frontage of 1,200 feet, and accommodation for 1,200 guests. The Cohmihia is now under the management of Mr. George J. Bolton, of the Bolton House, Harrisburg, and is strictly a first-class house, with fine con- veniences for bathing. The United States is also a well-kept and popular house. A new hotel on the site of the old Mount Vernon Hotel, at the north end of Cape Island, is spoken of, but not yet com- menced. Route. — From New York every evening 131 Schooley's Mountain.] NEW JERSEY. [Gkeenwood Lake. during the season by steamboat. From Philadelphia (Camden), by West Jersey Rallwuii to Glassboro, and tlienee by Cape May and Millville Railway ; distance, 80 miles. (See Routes from Philadelphia.) Cape May is at the extreme southern point of New Jersey, where the floods of the Delaware are lost in the greater floods of the Atlantic. The beach for bathing or driving is one of the best on the Atlantic coast. The little village of the Cape (Cape Island) is thronged in the summer season by thousands of gratified pleasure-seekers. They come chiefly from Philadelphia, Bal- timore, and the South. Cold Spring, two miles north of the beach, on the line of the railroad, aflbrds a pleasant drive and picnic place. No hotel accommodation yet at this Spring. Sclaoo ley's Motiiitaisa. — Hotel, the Heath House. Route. — From New York, by the Mor- ris and Essex Railway, 62 miles to Hack- ettstown, and thence 2|- miles by stage. Visitors from the South proceed via Phila- delphia and New Brunswick, connecting v/ith the Neio Jersey Central Railway aA. Bound Brook, and from this line as above. The height of the mountain is about 1,100 feet above the sea. Springs, con- taining muriate of soda, of lime, and of magnesia, sulphate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, and silex, and carbonated oxide of iron, are near its summit. 15Md.4l's Hialce. — Hotel, the For- rest House. From New York by the Morris and Essex Railway, 54 miles to Stanhope, and thence, 2|- miles by stage. Budd's Lake is a beautiful mountain water, deep, pure, and well suopliedwith fish. 132 Oi*ecii>voo«l ILiSike. — Hotel, the Windermere House. From New York by Erie Railway, 50] miles to Monroe, and thence by stage. To| Greenwood Lake, sometimes called Long! Pond, is a very agreeable jaunt from thel metropolis, whether for the pure air of thel hills, the pleasant aspects of Nature, or for] the sports of the rod and the gun. Greeu-^ wood lies in Orange County, 8 miles south-^ west of Chester, in the midst of a very^ picturesque mountain region. It beautiful water of seven miles in extent,'! and all about it, in every direction, are lesser but scarcely less charming lakes and lakelets, some of which, in a ride or ramble over the countiy, delight the eye where least dreamed of. Such an unex- pected vision is Lake Macopin, and the larger waters of the Wawayandah. The last-mentioned lake is situated in the Wa- wayandah Mountains, about 3i miles from the New York and New Jersey boundary- line. The word Wawayandah signifies winding stream, and is very characteristic of the serpentine course of the outlet of this lake toward the Wallkill. Waway- andah is almost divided by an island into j two ponds, and thus gets its home name] of " Double Pond." It is very deep, and ' aboimds in fine trout. This varied hUl^ and lake neighborhood presents in its gsa^ era! air an admirable blending of the wil^ ruggedness of the great mountain rangeS and the pastoral sweetness of the fertile valley lands ; for it possesses the fea tures of both, though of neither in th| highest degree. (For other places aa^ summer resorts in New Jerse}', see Net York City, and Philadelphia and Vi- cinity.) Delaware.] DELAWARE. [Delaware. DELAWAEE. Delaware is, next to Eliode Island, the smallest State in the Union — her greatest length and breadth being, respee- tively, only 96 and 8'J miles. The first settlements within the limits of the State were made by the Swedes and Finns about the year 1627. In 1655 the country fell into the possession of the Dutch, and in 1C64 passed under British rule. It was originally a portion of Pennsylvania, and was governed by the rulers of that colony until the time of the Revolution. The landscape of the northern portion of Delaware is agreeably varied with pic- turesque hills and pleasant vales. In the central and southern portions of the State the country is level, ending in marsh and swamp lands. The only considerable waters of the State are the Delaware River and Bay, on its eastern boundary. The eastern shore of Maryland, which is easily reached from the railway lines of Delaware^ offers great attractions to sports- men and tourists inMaryland. The Bran- dywine is a romantic stream, famous for the Revolutionary battle fought upon its banks near the limits of this State, Sep- tember, 1*7 7 7. Lords Cornwallis and Howe, Generals Washington, Lafayette, ji Greene, Wayne, and other distinguish- ed English and American leaders, took [j part in this memorable conflict. The j Americans retreated to Germantown, j with a loss of 1,200 men, while the British II remained in possession of the field, with jj a loss of about 800. The population of [I the State in 1860 was 112,216. Though s strongly urged to join the Southern States I in the secession movement, Delaware re- mained true to the Union throughout the , war, and furnished 2,000 soldiers to the Federal army at the outbreak of the re- bellion. Routes. — The direct routes between Philadelphia and Baltimore are — the Railroad Line and the Steamboat and Railroad alternately. The distance by the former route is 98 miles ; time, four hours. Tourists, with ample time, and who are desirous of varying the route of ti'avel, will find that over the Columbia Branch of the Pennsylvania Central Railroad to Columbia, on the Susquehanna River, thence to York, and thence by Northern Central Raihoay to Baltimore, a very pleasant excursion. Distance, 153 miles. Another route open to tourists, is from Philadelphia by steam- boat down the Delaware River to Del- aware City, 46 miles ; thence through the CJiesapeaJce and Delaioare Canal, 16 miles ; and thence down Elk River and Chesapeake Bay, and up the Patapsco River to Baltimore, 56 miles; total, 116 miles. The great feature of interest on this route, and perhaps the only induce- ment to deviate from the regularly trav- elled route by the PMladdpliia, Wilming- ton and Bcdlimore Railway), would be the pleasure of seeing the formidable excavation on the Chesapeake and Del- aware Canal, termed the "Deep Cut," which extends for six miles, and is 70 feet deep in the deepest part. A bridge of 235 feet span extends over this great chasm, at an elevation of 90 feet above the canal, under which steamboats, schooners, and other small vessels can pass. This canal is 66 feet wide at the surface, and 10 feet deep, with two lift and two tide locks, 100 feet long by 22 wide. It was completed in 1829, at a cost of $2,750,000. As already stated, the shortest, most expeditious, and by far the most popular line of travel between Philadelphia and Baltimore is that af- forded by the Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore Railway. This fine road, 133 Chester.] DELAWARE. [Wilmington. the result of a combination of three com- panies, has been com])leted and in opera- tion since February, 1S38. The cost of road and equipment has been upward of $10,000,000, and its management has been such as to inspire the utmost con- fidence and the most liberal support. MOUTE I. PUILADELPITTA, WILMIlTGTnN, HA VBE DE GRACE, ANJ> BALTIMORE. {Passenger Station. Broad Street, corner Washington Avemu.) STATiONS.^Gray's Ferry, 2 miles ; Laz- aretto, 11; Chester, 14; Thurlow, 16; Claymont, 20; Bellevue, 23; Wilmmg- ton, 28 ; New Castle Junction, 30 ; Newport, 32 ; Stanton, 34 ; Newark, 40 ; Elkton, 46 ; Northeast, 52 ; Charlestown, 55 ; Perryville, 61 ; Havre de Grace, 62 ; Aberdeen, 6*7 ; Perrymansville, 71 ; Bush River, 74 ; Edgewood, 77 ; Magnolia, 79 ; Harewood, 81 ; Chase's, 13-Mile Switch, 86 ; Stemmer's Run, 89 ; Back River, 91 ; Baltimore, 98. Leaving the depot, the route lies through the now busy suburbs to the Schuylkill Riyer, at Gray's Ferry, which is crossed over a handsome bridge in view of Woodlands Cemetery. An obe- lisk, built by the railroad company, to commemorate its completion, stands on the right, near the bridge, which is some- times referred to as the "Newark Vi- aduct." Passing the Lazaretto, a large building, surmounted by a cupola, stand- ing on the banks of the Delaware, 11 miles from Philadelphia, we shortly reach Claester (14 miles), interesting to the tourist as the point where the Ameri- can army crossed the Delaware in 1777, to intercept the British troops on their march to Philadelphia. It is at the mouth of Chester Creek, and is divided by that stream. It has the distinction of being the oldest town in the State, having been settled by the Swedes in 1643. its ori- ginal name was Upland. The Indian name was Mecoponaca. Extensive dairies are in the neighborhood. The Provin- cial Assembly was held here in 16.82, William Penn being then Governor. The 134 precise spot where Penn landed (Novem. ber, 1682), on the bank of the Del- aware, south of Chester Creek, and marked by a holly, is still pointed out. The old Couri-Houae, erected in 1724, is an interesting structure. Population, 10,000. Four mile? beyond Chester we reach the line which divides the Keystone State from Delaware, and crossing Naa- man's Creek (Claymont), a little beyond Linwood Station (JSIarcus Hook of the Dutch), we reach the Brandywine, fa- mous for the battle fought on its banks September, 1778, and soon after Belle- vue (23 miles). WooHon Hall, on the right, is a handsome mansion in the Nor- man style, finished in 1855. "Wilmimg^ton (28 miles).— Hotels, Indian Queen, United States. Wilming- ton, the most important town between Philadelphia and Baltimore, is situated between the Brandywine River and the Christiana Creek (Minquas), one mile above their junction, and in the midst of one of the finest agricultural districts in the Middle States. It occupies the site of Fort Christiana, and the village built back of it, and called by the Dutch Chris- tianham. Oh the surrender of the Dutch possessions in Delaware (1674), the name was changed to Altona. It is built on ground gradually rising to the height of 112 feet above tidewater, and is reg- ularly laid out, with broad streets cross- ing each other at right angles. In 1777 it v/as occupied by the British. In 1809 it was chartered as the "Borough of Wilmington," and in 1832 it was incor- porated. Since 1860, both its business and population have much increased : at that time it contained about 16,000 in- habitants, and now the population num- bers 25,000. Th? Old Sivedes Church, the corner-stone of which was laid May 28, 1698, is worthy a visit. The church- yard surrounding it contains some quaint epitaphs. On the Brandywine River are some of the finest flouring-mills in the United States, to which vessels can come drawing eight feet of water. It contains also ship and steamboat yards, a foundery for the manufacture of patent car-wheels, which are used all over the country, and a number of large manufacturing estab- lishments of various kinds. DuponCs Stanton.] DELAWARE. [Elkton. famous Powder Mills are in the vicinity. It is the seat of a Catholic College [St. Mxi-y^s), and is generally distinguished for its academies and boarding-schools. It is connected with New Castle, Dover, Milford, Seaford, Salisbury, and Princess Anne, by the Delaware Railway line, wliich intersects the Philadelphia and Baltimore line at this point. (See Route II.) Passengers by evening trains from Philadelphia to Baltimore, desirous to see Wilmington, can procure "lie-over tickets " by applying to the conductor. Four miles southwest of Wilmington lies the village of Neviport (32 miles), the point of departure for the Brandywine Springs, three miles distant. Newport lays considerable claim to antiquity, hav- ing been founded by Swedes and Finns m 1639. Stanton (34 miles) is a pleasant little village, lying a short distance north of the railroad. This is the highest point between the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, the rivers and streams (White Clay and Red Clay Creeks) on either side of it flowing respectively into them. On Red Clay Creek the American army was encamped, September 8, 1'7'7'7. Six miles beyond Stanton is Newark (40 miles), the seat of Delaware College, Newark Academy ., and other educational institiitions. This locality was the scene of some fighting between the British and American forces, August, I'Z'Z'Z. Two miles farther, and four from Elkton Station, the train crosses Mason a?id Bixonh line. This line, established in 1'76'7, was long the boundary between the Northern andSoathern States. A writer, recording its history before the war of 1861-65, thus speaks of this famous line: "The mere fact, that it points out the boundary between two States of the Confederacy, would be in- sufficient to elevate it to a dignity beyond that of similar conventional barriers else- v^liere, but it has assumed a far higher grade of importance in the political world, from having furnished, in a por- tion of its length, a line of demarcation between slaveholding and non-slavehold- ing territory. This circumstance has nearly buried in oblivion its original aird simple character as a boundary between adjoining Commonwealths, and has given it, in the mhids of men, certain hypothet- ical extensions which have changed its reputed 'place of beginning,' and its terminus, from time to time, until it has come to be regarded by many as extend- ing from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It now figures in American political discus- sions, m this ideal character, and involves itself with some of the most difficult and most dangerous questions which agitate the public mind." The original line was 327 miles long, and was designated by stone pillars, four feet long, set one mile apart. These pillars were engraved in England, with the arms of the Calvert and Penn families. Some of them are still standing, though scarcely recogni- zable. While, with the extinction of slavery in the United States, this line has lost much of its significance, the interest attaching to it has largely increased. Two large stones, known as the Tangent Point, standing in an open field within a hundred yards of the railroad, mark the commencement ot the line. Ellitom (46 miles), the county seat of Cecil County, is at the head of naviga- tion on the Elk River, whence its name " Head of Elk," changed to Elkton in I'ZS'/. The first settlement vfas made in 1694 by Swedish fishermen from Fort Cassimer (New Castle). Previous to 1787 courts were held at " Court-House Point," 10 miles below, on the river. The Court- House, built in 1791, is an interesting edifice. Near this place the British army, under Sir William Howe, landed in 17'77, and marched to Philadelphia. Formerly stages left Elkton daily for the Eastern Shore of Maryland. The route now is from Wilmington by the Peninsular or Delaware Railway (see Route II.) Northeast Railway Station (25 miles) has an extensive iron furnace, etc. OaarlestO'WM (55 miles), near the mouth of the Northeast River, is a place with some claims to antiquity, hav- ing been settled in 1742. This and the neighboring village of Northeast were burned by the British under Admiral Cockburn (1813). The Brick Meeting- house, ten miles from Northeast, was built by William Penn for the Society of Friends. Gilpiii's Rock, at the crossing of the river, is a favorite picnic place. Three miles from Charlestown the train 135 Uavre de Grace.] DELAWARE. [New Castle. crosses the Principio Creek, explored by the renowned Captain John Smith in 1608, near the Principio Iron Furnace, and soon after reaches Perryville, formerly Cecil. Here the entire train is ^'■ferried'" across the Susquehanna River, one mile in width to Havre de Grace. Bliivre de v Castle, on the Delaware River, is the eastern terminus of the New Castle and Frenchtown Railway. It con- tains a Court-House, Public Library, and several churches. Boats to and from Philadelphia and Cape May call here. The Butler House has good accommoda- tion for travellers. llovei* (48 inUes), the capital of the State, is a handsome town, situated on Jones's Creek, about five miles west of the Delaware Bay. The State House is an imposing edifice, with an open lawn iii front. Dover contains two good hotels, and several elegant private residences. MlIi^Fei (73 miles), 25 miles south of Dover, is a place of considerable trade. The Mispillion Creek, which is navigable for schooners to this point, divides the Sbatord.] DELAWARE. [Port Penn. I town into North and South Milford. Pop- ulation, 2,000. j Sealbrd. (84 miles), on the Nanti- j coke River, is a place of active trade. iThe Nantiooke is navigable for steam- boats of light draught to Seaford. Sa,lisl»iai"y, Maryland (103 miles), the former terminus of the Delaware Rail- loay, is on the Wicomico River, 95 miles : southeast of Annapolis. It is one of the inost flourishing points on the Eastern Shore. The route is now complete to Somers^s Cove (Crisfield), 29 miles beyond Princess Anne. Steamers connect the Cove with New York and Norfolk. This route affords speedy transit between Phil- adelphia and the whole Eastern Shore of Marylaud. (See Maryland, for Chesa- peake Bat.) l*oi-t S^eiasi, on Delaware Bay, 30 miles north of Dover, is a watering-place of much resort. There is good bathing, gunning, and fishing in the vicinity of the I'ier House. Pennsylvania.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Pennsylvania. PEISI^SYLYANIA. Pennsylvania is, in point of popula- tion, the second State in the Union, and in all respects one of the most important and interesting. A very singular fact in her history — singular because it has no parallel in the annals of any other mem- ber of the American Union — is, that her territory was settled without vrar or blood- shed. The doctrines of peace and good will, taught by William Penn and his associates, when they pitched their tents upon the suimy banks of the Delaware, long served, happily, as a charm over the savage natures of their Indian neighbors. We have no record of battle and siege in the story of this State, from the time of the first settlement at Philadelphia, in 1682, until the date of the Prench and Indian War in 1755. During this year the famous defeat of Braddoclc, in which Washington, then in his early youth, dis- tinguished himself, occuri-ed at Pittsburg. In 1*763 the massacre of the Conestoga Indians took place in Lancaster County. In 1'76'7 the southern boundary of the State, which has since become famous as Mason and Dixon's line, was made. (See Stanton, Delaware.) Pennsylvania is memorable in the arnals of the American Revolution, in which she played a con- spicuous part. Upon her soil occurred the important battles of Brandywine and Germantown (lYV*/). The traveller will seek here also for the scenes of those celebrated events, the massacres of Wyoming and Paoli. Valley Forge was the chief headquarters of General Wash- higton, and is made yet more interesting by the memory of the sufferings there of the patriot army during its winter encamp- ment in Illl-'JS. Philadelphia was the national capital until 1*789 — a period of nearly ten years — and here the earliest American Congresses assembled. The 138 memorable revolt, called the Whiskey surrection, happened in Pennsylvania, 1794. Among the great men whom Peni sylvania has given to the Republic, we ms cite the honored names of Franklin(thou<_ born in Boston), Robert Morris, Pultoi Rush, and Rittenhouse. Ex-President Bi chanan, Thaddeus Stevens, J. W. Forne^ Henry C. Carey, Morton McMichael, an( R. Shelton Mackenzie, are citizens of this State. Pennsylvania furnished upwan of 360,000 troops for the national d( fence in the war of 1861-65. The landscape of Pennsylvania is ex- tremely diversified and beautiful. On< fourth of her great area of 46,000 squar< miles is occupied by mountain rangeSj sometimes reaching an elevation of 2,00W feet. These hills, links of the great Al- leghany chain, run generally from north- east to southwest, through the eastern,] central, and southern portions of thi State. The spur of this hill-range is calj ed South Mountain, where it rises on tj Delaware, below Easton. Next, as go westward, come the Kittatinny Blue Mountains, and the Broad Moui tains, south of the North Branch ol the Susquehanna. Across the river is th] Tuscarora. South of the Juniata are thj Sideling Hills, and, lastly, come the leghanies, dividing the Atlantic slope from the great Mississippi valley region. West of the Alleghanies, the only hill- ranges in the State are the minor ones called the Laurel and the Chestnut ridges. This belt of mountains extends over a breadth of .200 miles, enclosing numberless fertile valleys, many charm- ing waters, and the greatest coal fields and iron deposits in the Union. Penn- sylvania cannot boast the marvellous lake scenery of the Empire State ; indeed, she has no lakes, if we except the great Erie iki tlTERS.l PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. raters which wash the shore of the north- •est corner of the State. For this want, owever, the charms of her many pietu- esque rivers fully compensate. Iler val- leys are even more inviting and beautiful ihan her mountains. The Delaware, the liehigh, the Wyoming, the Schuylkill, nd the Lackawanna, abound in scenic at- :actions. RIVERS. The Susquehanna, the largest river of 'onnsylvania, and one of the most beau- lul in America, crosses the entire readth of the State, flowing 400 miles 1 many a winding bout, through moun- liii gorges, rocky clifls, and broad, cul- vated meadows. (See Susquehanna JVEE.) The Jiiniaia is the chief affluent of the usquehanna. It enters that river from JO acclivities of the Alleghanies in she L>t, through a mountain and valley :iuntry of great natural attraction. (See iDNiATA River.) j The Delaware flows 300 miles from its jburces in the Kaatskill Mountains to the lelaware Bay, forming the boundary be- veen Pennsylvania and New Jersey, and terward between New Jersey and Dela- are. It is one of the chief features of le varied scenery of the Neie York and )-ie Railwai/, which follows its banks a- 90 miles. (See N. Y. and E. R. R.) ower down, its passage through the ountains forms that great natural won- n- of the State, the Delaware Water lip. (See Delaware Water Gap.) The ivigation of the Delaware is interrupted Trenton, New Jersey, by falls and pids. Philadelphia is on this river, )Out 40 miles above its entrance into elaware Bay. The river was named in )iior of Lord De La Ware, who visited e bay in 1610. The shores of the Dela- ire and its smaller tributaries are fine umiug-grounds in the autumn months. fied birds and Rail are found in great lundance. (See Chesitsr.) The Lehigh is a rapid and most pictu- sque stream. Its course is from the ountain coal districts, through the mous passage of the Lehigh Water ip, below Mauch Chunk, to the Dela- ire at Easton. Its length is about 90 liles. The Sehui/IMU floAvs 120 miles from the coal regions north, and enters the Dela- ware five miles below Philadelphia. We shall review it as we call at the towns and places of interest upon its banks. The Alleghany and the Monongahela Rivers — one 300 and the other 200 miles in length — unite at Pittsburg and foi-m the Ohio. The Youghiogheny is a tributary of the Monongahela. The LacTcaivanTia is another mountain stream, which takes its rise in the north- east part of the State, and falls into the north branch of the Susquehanna River, 10 miles above Wilkesbarre. The val- ley of tlie Lackawanna is noted for its rich coal mines. PHTIi ADEL PHIA. Hotels : The hotels of Philadelphia, though neither so numerous nor ex- tensive as those of New York, are never- theless conspicuous for the comfort of their internal arrangements and tlie excellence of their cuisine. Among the most desirable are the following: the Continental, on Chestnut and Ninth Streets, opened in 1860, has a repu- tation second to no hotel in the United States. Under the proprietorship of Messrs. J. E. Kingsley & Co., its reputa- tion bids fair to be sustained. This fine estabUshment is fitted with a passenger elevator, and has all the appointments of a first-class hotel. The Chestnut Street, front, 200 feet long, is of Pictou sand- stone, six stories high, and is much ad- mired. The La Pierre, at the intersec- tion of Chestnut and Broad Streets, has been recently refurnished throughout, and is now one of the most elegant houses in the country. It is in the immediate neigh- borhood of the Union League Club-rooms, the Opcra-House, and the theatres, and has accommodation for upward of 300 guests. Messrs. Baker & Farley are the lessees. The Girard ffovse, on Chest- nut Street, opposite the Continental, is a commodious and well-kept house. The Merchants' Hotel, on Fourth Street, and the Amej-ican, on Chestnut, near Fifth Avenue, are popular houses. Charges at the Continental and La Pierre, $4.50, at the Girard $4 per day. * For routes to New Tork, see " New Jee- set;" for routes to Baltimore, see "Dela- ware." ISO PniLADELPIIIA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia Furnished apartmentiS in private houses are readily obtained by those desiring them. The best locations are to be found ia Chestnut Street, above Twelfth Street, in xVrch Street, and in and around Franklin, Peun, and Logan Squares. Furnished apartments, with good board, can be had at about one- hdf the hotel rates. Uesxaurants. — Of late, the restaurant lias become a feature of Philadelphia life, though in so essentially a domestic and home community it will be long be- fore it becomes fashionable. The Union League of Philadelphia, on Broad Street, corner of Sansom, offers the greatest at- tractions to gentlemen, visiting or mak- ing a stay in the city. Files of the lead- ing European and American magazines and journals are to be found here. At- tached to it is the best club-room and refectory in Philadelphia. A member's introduction and ticket will secure the visitor the privileges of the club for one month.* The British Coiisulate in Philadelphia is at 619 Walnut Street. Charles E. K. Kortright, consul. Philadelphia, the largest city in the United States, and in point of population and commerce second only to New York, lies between the Delaware and Schuylkill Ilivers, five miles above their junction, and nearly 100 miles, by the Delaware Bay and River, from the Atlantic. Its precise latitude is 39° 51' north, and longitude '75° 10' west, being 136 miles northeast of Washington City, and 87 miles southwest of New York. The site of the city is so low and level, that it does not make a very impressive ap- pearance from any approach. But the elegance, symmetry, and neatness of its streets, the high cultivation and the picturesque character of the liigher sub- urban land to the northward, fully com- pensate for this want. By a recent Act of the Legislature, the limits of the city have been made coextensive with those of the county of Philadelphia, which em- brace an area of 120 square miles. The most thronged portion of the city is near the apex of an angle formed by the ap- * This fine building was almost wholly de- stroyed by lire, September 6, 1866. It is now being rebuilt. 140 proach of the two rivers, between which it is built. Streets extend from river to river, and are crossed by other streets at right angles. This portion of the city covers an area of nearly nine square miles, and embraces Chestnut and Market Streets, East and Ninth, Third (the Wall Street of Philadelphia), and other leading thoroughfares and business marts of the city proper. Within this area are lo- cated the Exchange, State House, Post- Office, Custom-Ilouse, the large banking houses, insurance and newspaper offices, warehouses, wholesale stores, etc. The entire length of the city north and south is 20 miles, and from east to west 8 miles, and with its rapid growth west of the Schuylkill it will soon exceed even these magnificent dimensions. The city, as originally incorporated (1*701), was bounded by the rivers Del- aware and Schuylkill, Vine and Cedar Streets; but in 1854 the adjoining dis- tricts of Spring Garden, Penn, Northern Liberties, Kensington, and Eichmond, on the north, West Philadelphia, etc, on the west, and Southwark, Moyamensing, and Passyunk on the south, were consol- idated with the city, into one municipal government. Within this area are 300 miles of paved streets, and upward of 115,000 buildings, of which number 23,000 have been erected since 1855. The history of Philadelphia, though of more recent date than that of many other American cities, is both interesting and eventful. To William Penn is almost universally credited the first settlement and foundation of the city (1682), though local record is by no means clear on that point. In the year 1681 the first set- tlers arrived from London, in the ship " Sarah and John," Captain Smith. Wil- lam Penn, accompanied by a colony of English Friends or Quakers, in 1682, planned and settled Philadelphia after a regular purchase from the Indians, ratified by treaty in due form. However this may. be, certain it is that the sohriquel of the " City of Brotherly Love," which it now bears, was given to it by Penn him- self. At the time of Penn's arri.val, the site of the city was owned and oc- cupied principally by Swedes, whose claims were subsequently disposed of to Penn, in exchange for lands on the Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. Schuylkill, near what was then called " Swedes' Ford." The original plan of I the city was made by Thomas Holmes, f and surveyed in 1683. The first house f recorded to have been erected was that ; built by George Guest, and known as I the " Blue Anchor" Tavern. This stood ' near the mouth of Dock Creek (north- [ west corner Dock and Front Streets), [ then known as " Sandy Beach." The first daily newspaper published in the country was published here. It was called " Poulson's Daily Advertiser." It was established by Mr. Dunlop in l'7'7l, and first issued as a daily in 1*784. In 1840 it was merged in the North Ameri- can. The WeeMy Mercury was first is- sued December 22, 1*719. No striking events mark the history of Philadelphia down to the days of the Revolution, and its part -in that great drama was more peaceful than warhke. The first Con- gress assembled here, as did also sub- sequent Congresses, dux-ing the contin- uaace of the war. The Declaration of Independence was signed and issued here, July 4, 1*7*76, The Convention which formed the Constitution of the Republic assembled here. May, 178*7. Here re- sided the first President of the United States, and here, too. Congress continued to meet until about 179*7. The city was in possession of the British troops from [September, 1777, to June 11, 1778, a re- !sult of the unfortunate battles of Brandy- Jwine and Germantown. Philadelphia, though a healthy city, has been frequently visited by pesti- lence. In 1793 the yellow fever broke 'out and carried off upv/ard of 4,000 ;people, or one-tenth of its entire popu- tlation. In 1822 the Asiatic cholera [visited the city. In 1849 and again in 1:1854 it was prevalent and very fatal. "in 1844 riots broke out between the Protestant and Catholic population in the northern and southern suburbs. The military were called out and quiet re- stored, but not until several Catholic cliurches had been destroyed, and many lives lost. Market Street divides the city into two divisions, called North and South : all that part of the city toward Arch Street, from Market, is called North ; and all toward Chestnut .Street, from Mar- ket, is called South ; the numbers running 100 to a block or square, make it com- paratively easy to find a residence or build- ing in almost any part of the city. All that part of the city from the Delaware to the Schuylkill is called Philadelphia ; and that on the upper or west side of the Schuylkill, West Philadelphia. Population. — The census returns made for the several decades will best illustrate the growth of the city in population and trade. In 1684, it contained 2,500 in- habitants ; in 1777, 21,167; in 1790, 42,520; in 1800,70,287; in 1810, 96,- 287 ; in 1820, 119,325 ; in 1830, 167,325 ; in 1840, 258,037; in 1850, 408,762; in 1860, 565,529. The population is now (1866) estimated in round numbers at 700,000. Its annual increase is estimated at 16,000 to 18,000. General Aspect. — The approach to Philadelphia by the most frequented route, viz., from New York by rail, via Camden, New Jersey, is not apt to give the visitor a very favorable impression of its extent and importance. The site of the city, as before remarked, is flat. The view best calculated to impress the stran- ger is that which meets him on approach- ing it from the northwest, particularly from the summit of the inclined plane on the Old Columbia Railroad. (See New Jersey, for Routes to Philadelphia.) Ferries. — There are six ferry Unes running to and from Philadelphia, as fol- lows, viz. : West Jersey. — Market Street, Philadel- phia, to Market Street, Camden ; fare, five cents. Camden and PMladelpMa. — Market Street, Philadelphia, to Federal Street, Camden ; fare, five cents. Camden. — South Street, Philadelphia, to Kaign's Point, Camden ; fare, five cents. Gloucester. — South Street, Philadel- phia, to Gloucester, N. J. ; fare, five cents. HedJ^ank. — South Street, Philadelphia, to Red Bank, N. J. ; fare, ten cents. Cooper''s Point. — Tine Street, Philadel- phia, to Cooper's Point ; fare, five cents. Sliahamaxon. — Fare, five cents. Besides these ferries, numerous steam- ers ply on the Delaware, affording easy and pleasant communication during the sum- mer between Philadelphia and Arlington, Chester, Delanco, Ti-enton, Burlington 141 PniLADELPIIIA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. Bristol, Newcastle, Tacony, Bridgeport, etc. Street Railways. — Philadelphia has the most complete system of city pas- senger railways on the continent. The lines are 22 in number. By the use of transfer or "exchange" tickets almost any point within the city limits can be reached by rail at a uniform fare of seven cents. The Merchants' Exchange is the principal car station. Hacks, Fares, etc. — (Regulated by law.) One passenger, with trunk, valise, carpet-bag, or box, distance not exceed- ing one miles, 50 cents. Distance over a mile, and not exceeding two miles, '75 cents. Each additional passenger, 25 cents. If the distance be over two miles, each additional mile, or part of a mile, 25 cents, in addition to the sum of 15 cents for the first two miles, and for every ad- ditional passenger, 25 cents. If engaged by the hour, with the privilege of going from place to place, and stopping as often as may be required, $1 per hour. In case of dispute, call a policeman, or apply at the mayor's office. Distance, Average ten Squares to a Mile. — From Chestnut Street, south, to Prime, one mile. ■ From Chestnut Street, north, to Brown, one mile. From Delaware River to Twelfth Street, one mile. From Delaware River to Schuylkill River, two miles. From Camden and Amboy Depot to Trenton (Kensington) Depot, two miles. From Camden and Amboy Depot to Baltimore Depot, two miles. Public Squares. — Washington Square, a little southwest of the State House, is finely ornamented with trees and grav- elled walks, is surrounded by a handsome iron railing with four j^rincipal entrances, and is kept in excellent order. During the War of Independence upward of 2,000 American soldiers were buried in this spot, which went by the name of the " Potter's Field." No traces of their graves can now be seen. It was made a public square and promenade in 1815. Independence Square, in the rear of the State House, was purchased by the Pro- vincial Assembly in 1782 for the erection 142 of State buildings, etc. It is enclosed by a solid brick wall, rising three or four feet above the adjacent streets, surmounted by an iron railing. The entire area is laid off in walks and grass-plots, shaded with majestic trees. It was within this en- closure that the Declaration of Indepen- dence was first publicly read, July 4, 1*776, and at the present day it is fre- quently used as a place of meeting for political and other purposes. The build- ings facing this square on Walnut Street occupy the site of the " Old Prison," the " British Provost " of the Revolution. A new Court-House is in course of erectiou on the northwest corner of the square. Franklin Square, between Race and Vine, and Sixth and Franklin Streets, is an attractive promenade, vAXh a fountain in its centre, surrounded by a marble basin ; it is embelHshed with a great va- riety of trees. Fenn Square, at the intersection of Broad and Market Streets, is now divided into four parts by Market and Broa( Streets beiag cut through it. It w; formerly the site of the old water-works, Logan Square, the largest in the cityj is on Eighteenth Street, between Raci and Vine Streets. The Sanitary Fair was held here, June, 1864. Fitienhoiise Square is between Eigh- teenth and Nineteenth Streets and Wal- nut and Locust Streets Beyond the Fairmount Water Works, in the northern part of the city, on Lemon Hill, once the residence of Robert Morris, of Revolutionary memory, another beau- tiful park has recently been laid out. It is known as Morris Square, and is bound- ed by Susquehanna, Hancock, and How- ard Streets. Jefferscn Square is embraced within Third and Fourth, Washington Avenue and Federal Streets. Hunting Fark, on the York Road, con- tains 43 acres, and a fine avenue of tulip poplars. Fairmount or City Park extends along the entire eastern front of the Schuylkill River from the suspension bridge' to a point north of the Girard Avenue bridge. It embraces the Fairmount Water-works, formerly "Pratt's Garden," "Sedglcy Park," and the Schuylkill Water-workaa The scenery in- the neighborhood is Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia.' 3eedingly picturesque, and its proximity to ;he old homesteads of "Solitude," "Eg- jlesfield," " Sweetbrier," and Lansdowne ilanor (Park), renders it historically inter- >.>sting. Visitors to Philadelphia in the winter ivill find both pleasure and profit in a rip to one or other of the numerous ikating-parks. We append the list, for |lie convenience of those partial to this exercise — Skating-Paek s. — Union Parle. — ^^'ourth and Diamond Streets. PMladelpliia Park. — Thirty-first and rValnut Streets. Xaiional Park. — Twenty-first Street nd Columbia Avenue. Keystone Park. — Third and Morris ^treets. Pushnell Park. — ^Broad Street, above \ilumbia Avenue. Easttvick Park. — Gray's Ferry Eoad. See Baetram's Garden.) Central Park. — Fifteenth and Wallace Streets. West Philadelphia Base Ball and Ska- ,inff Park. — Forty-first Street, north of ■Lancaster Avenue. Philadelphia has few monuments wor- hy special observation. That erected perpetuate Penii^s Treaty with the In- 'ia/is is the most noteworthy. It stands n Beach Street, above Columbia Avenue. Public Buildings. — The most inter- sting object in Philadelphia, and the one jost frequently visited, is the State [louse or Independence Hall. It fronts on "hestnut Street, and, including the wings, •hich are of modern construction (1813), ecupies the whole block, extending from ifth to Sixth Streets. The centre edifice "as built by Edward Woolley, from de- igns by Gov. Andrew Hamilton. It as commenced in 1729, and completed 1 1734, at a cost of £5,600. In the fol- 3\ving year it was occupied by the Gen- ral Assembly, who continued its occupa- ion until the removal of the seat of gov- rnment to Lancaster, in 1799. In 1740 wo wings were erected, which were con- ected with the main building by an ireade, with stairs leading to the upper i3oms. At a later period there were add- d at the Fifth and Sixth Street corners blong wooden buildings or sheds, which ere used for storage and other purposes. The old wings and arcade were torn down in 1813, and the present two-story edifice was erected on their site. The City Hall, corner of Fifth Street, was erected in 1790, and the County Court-House com- menced in 1789, and finished in 1791, an addition to it being made in 1797. In the the east room of the State-House, known as Independence Hall, on July 4, 177C, '.he Declaration of Independence was adopted by Congress, and pubhcly proclaimed from the steps on the same day. The room presents now the same appearance as it did at that time in furniture and in- terior decorations. It contains a statue of Washington, portraits of William Penn, by Henry Inman, of John Hancock, Marquis de la Fayette, by Sully, of Baron Steuben, Commodore Porter, Roger Sherman, and numerous other pictures, and many curious Revolutionary relics. Descriptive catalogues of the pictures can be obtained of the superintendent, James J. Ashmen, at the Hall. Admission daily from nine o'clock until two. Here also is preserved the old "Liberty Bell," import- ed from England, but which, as the visitor is informed, " got cracked by the stroke of a hammer in trying the sound." It was i-ecast by Isaac Morris, and was the first bell in the United States rung after the passage of the immortal Declaration. It bears the following lines, said to have been inscribed by Morris himself : " TLe motto of OTjr fatber band Circled the world in its embrace — 'Twas Liberty throughout the land, And good to all their brothers' race ; Long, here within the pilgrims' bell, Had lingered — though it often pealed — Those treasured tones that eke should teii When Freedom's proudest scroll was sealed 1 " A small bell, made from the filings of the original, is to be seen in the rooms of the Historical Society, Athenseum Build- ing. The Statue of Washington is wrouglit in wood, and was executed by Rush, of Philadelphia. Near it is a piece of stone, said to be a part of the step of the bal- cony upon. which John Nixon stood while reading the Declai'ation of Independence. Up-stairs, over Independence Hall, is the " Lobby." famed in colonial days as the scene of many a sumptuous feast. In it were confined the American officers cap- 143 PUILADELPHIA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. tured at the battle of Germantown. The original steeple having become much de- cayed, was taken down in 1774, twenty- sis years before the removal of the Gov- ernment to Washington, and the present one erected in 1828. The building on the southeast corner of Chestnut and South Streets was the old Congress Hall. Here Washington bade farewell to public life. The Ciisiom-Hoiise, formerly the United States Bank, on Chestnut Street, between Fourth and Fifth Streets, is a chaste spe- cimen of the Doric order of architecture, modelled after the Parthenon at Athens, with the omission of the colonnades at the sides. The Chestnut Street and Li- brary Street fronts have each eight mas- sive columns. It was commenced in 1819, and completed in about five years, at a cost of half a million of dollars. The Merchants' Exchange, situated be- tween Dock, Walnut, and Third Streets, is of white marble. It is a beautiful structure, and of its kind one of the finest in the country. The Board of Brokers and Commercial Association have rooms here. The Merchants'' Itead- ing-Room, in the rotunda of the second story, is ornamented with designs in fresco. The United States Mint is on Chestnut Street, corner of Juniper Street, and fronts on the former 122 feet. It is built of white marble, in the style of a Grecian Ionic temple, and comprises several distinct apartments. The corner-stone of the present building was laid in 1829; the edifice cost $200,000. Coining is among the most interesting and attractive of processes to those who have never witnessed such operations. The collec- tion of coins preserved here is among the largest and most valuable in the Union. Visitors are admitted during the morning of each day, Sundays excepted, from 9 to 12 o'clock, on application to the proper officers. The United States Navy Yard is locat- ed on Front Street, below Prime, 1-J- miles southeast of the State House, and con- tains within its limits about 12 acres. It is enclosed on three sides by a high and substantial brick wall; the east side fronts on and is open to the Delaware River. Entrance from foot of Federal Street. The yard contains every prepa- 144 ration necessary for building vessels-of- war, and has marine barracks, with quar- tei'S for the officers. The sectional float- ing dock in this yard, built in 1850, cost nearly one million dollars. Admission daily from 10 to 5 p. si. A movement ia now on foot to established the Navy Yard permanently at League Island, far- ther down the Delaware. Nearly opposite the Navy Yard, ex- tending to the Schuylkill River (Gray's Ferry Road), is the United States Naval Asylum, founded in 1 835, and constructed of white marble, with a front of 380 feet. The grounds are extensive, and taste- fully laid out. Application for admissioa, should be made at the gate. Girard College is situated on Ridge Avenue, in a northwest direction from the city proper, about two miles from the State House. It was founded by Citizen Stephen Girard, a native of France, who died in 1831. He bequeathed $2,000,000 for the purpose of erecting suitable build- ings " for the gratuitous instruction and support of destitute orphans." The site of the edifice and grounds embrace an area of 42 acres, and crown the summit of a slope at once commanding and at- tractive. The corner-stone was laid July 4, 1833. The buildings were completed in 1847, and the institution went into operation January 1, 1848. The central or college building is 218 feet long, 160 broad, and 97 feet high, and is a noble marble structure of the Corinthian order. Six other buildings, each 125 feet by 52, and three stories high, flank the main edi- fice on either side. The library is in the central building, to the right of the main entrance. A statue of the founder, said to be a truthful hkeness, stands at the foot of the grand stairway of the college. Under- neath the statue his remains are interred. The easternmost building embraces four separate and complete dwellings for the several officers of the college. Every thing required in and for the institution is pro- duced on the establishment. The number of orphans at present in the college isj 470. An Infirmary was added in 185£ '60. The whole is enclosed by a stOE wall 10 feet high, which is in singul| contrast to the splendid edifice withi| The whole cost of the ground and stn ture was $1,933,821.78. Permits to vig Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. the college and grounds may be obtained of Henry W. Arey, Secretary, or of tbe following Directors: James J. Boswell, 400 Chestnut Street ; A. C. Roberts, 301 North Eleventh Street ; Robert M. Foust, 112 South Fourth Street; Henry Simons, 1510 Girard Avenue; Robert 'Gill, 948 South Front Street. Principal entrances I on the north and south fronts. Clergy- men are not admitted. Among the public institutions of Phila- delphia, the Fairmount Water-works are worthy special notice. These fine works, which supply the city with water, are on the east bank of the Schuylkill, about two miles northwest from the heart of the cit}', occupying an area of 30 acres, a large part of which consists of the " mount," an eminence 100 feet above itidewater in the river ' below, and about 60 feet above the most elevated iground in the city. The top is divided [into four reservoirs, capable of containing 126,000,000 gallons, one of which is divid- jed into three sections for the purpose of ifiltration. The whole is surrounded by a |beautiful gravelled walk, from which may ijbe had a fine view of the city. The reser- iVoirs contain an area of over six acres ; jthey are 12 feet deep, lined with stone, and paved with brick, laid in a bed of clay, in -strong lime cement, and made water-tight. The power necessary for ;forcing the water into the reservoirs is ioblained by throwing a dam across the ,, Schuylkill ; and by means of wheels mov-- fed by the water, which work forcing- Ipumps, the water of the river is raised to ipe reservoirs on the top of the " mount." (This dam is 1,600 feet long, and the race jlapward of 400 feet long and 90 wide, cut im solid rock. The mill-house is of stone, 338 feet long and 56 wide, and capable pf containing eight wheels, and each |)ump will raise about 1,250,000 gallons ;ln 24 hours. . The Spring Garden Water- luorlis are situated on the Schuylkill, a jbhort distance above Fairmount. The average daily consumption of water in ;the city of Philadelphia is 2*7,000,000 gallons. The United States Government has two arsenals in the neighborhood of Philadelphia ; one on Gray's Ferry Road, south of the Naval Asylum, the other aear Frankford. The latter has one of the largest powder-magazines in the United States. Applications for admission are received by the commandant of the post. The State Arsenal is at the corner of Six- teenth and Filbert Streets. The Soldiers and Sailors' Home has suitable quarters in the building. To the Home is at- tached a library of 3,000 volumes for the use of the inmates. The City Arsenal is on Race Street, below Broad. Places of Amusement. — Theatrical ex- hibitions were introduced into Philadel- phia in 1*754. The first performances were held in a store-house in Water Street, near Pine. Subsequently a suit- able building was erected in South Street, but it was not until 1*791, that the theatre (since removed) on Chestnut Street, west of Sixth Street, was built. In 1809 the Olympic (see Walnut Street Theatre) was built, since which time the drama may be said to have flourished. The Academy of Music (Opera-House), on Broad and Locust Streets, is the most complete establishment of its kind in the United States. The first story is of brown-stone and the rest of pressed brick, with brown-stone dressing. The front, on Broad Street, is 140 feet, and presents a chaste apj)earance. Its extent on Locust Street is 268 feet. The auditori- um is 102 feet deep, 90 feet wide, '70 feet high, and has sittings for upward of 3,000 persons. The first-class seats num- ber 1,692, and are divided into the par- quet, parquet circle, balcony, first tier, boxes, and six proscenium boxes. The foyer, or retiring-room, in the second story front, is a handsome apartment, sup- ported by sixteen Ionic columns. The chandelier in the centre has 240 lights, and is much admired. The Academy was first opened January 26, 185*7. The Walnut Street Tlieatre is at the corner of Walnut and Ninth Streets. It was built in 1809 as the "Olympic," and enlarged and remodelled in 1865. Arch Street Theatre is in Arch Street, above Sixth. The Neiv Cliesinut Street ITieatre is a commodious and well-ar- ranged establishment. It fronts on Chest- nut'Street, west of Twelfth Street. The Musical Fund Hall, 806 Locust Street, between Eighth and Ninth Streets, is a favorite concert and lecture room. It was erected in 1824, and cost $2*7,500. It 145 Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadklphia. has seats for 2,500 persons. The Citij Museum, Callowliill Street, below Fifth; Wclcli's National C/rcu.^, Walnut Street, above Eighth; Ooncerl Hall, 1221 Chest- aut Street; National Hall, 1226 Market Street ; Sansom Street Hall, Sansom Street, above Sixth ; the Assembly Build- ings, southwest corner of Chestnut and Tenth Streets; Metropolitan Hall, 613 Chestnut Street ; Continental Theatre, Walnut near Eighth Street ; Wheatley^s Theatre, Chestnut Street, above Twelfth. There are several other halls, concert, and lecture rooms in the more remote parts of the city. The Gymnadum, under the manage- ment of Professors Hillebrand & Lewis, is open daily at the northeast corner of Arch and Ninth Streets (see Skating-Parks). Choice seats at all the above places can bo secured at Risley's Continental News Exchange up to 65- p. m., each day. When in the neighborhood of the Academy of Music and La Pierre House, a good opportunity is afforded the stranger of visiting the fine Club-Rooms of the Union League Association (pictures, flags, etc.). No more elegant place to beguile an hour can be found in the city. Upward of one hundred and seventy-six thousand dollars were expended on the construction of this building, an amount which has been largely increased by out- lays subsequently made to repair the damages caused by the fire of September 6, 1866. The Hst of members num- bered (1866) 1,'760 ; George W. Boker, secretary. The new hall of the Horti- cultural Society, south of the Academy, is a handsome edifice, just completed. Medical Institutions. — Philadelphia is justly famed for its schools of medi- cine. Among them the most prominent is the medical department of the Univer- nly of Pennsylvania. It occupies a very central locale on the west side of Ninth Street, between Chestnut and Market Streets, in the immediate neighborhood of the Continental, Girard, and other lead- ing hotels. The College of Philadelphia was instituted in 1*749, and was the first Qiedical college in the TJnited States. In 1779 its charter was abrogated; and the [Jniversity of Pennsylvania, which had been first established (1744) as an acade- ny, was organized. In 1789 the charter 146 and privileges of the college were re- stored by the Legislature, and in 1791 the two institutions were united as the Uni- versity of Pennsylvania. It has a large and valuable library, and an extensive and valuable anatomical collection. This institution is largely indebted for its es- tablishment and success to Drs. Wm. Shippen and John Morgan, whose por- traits adorn its walls. Jefferson Medical College, situated in Tenth Street, below Chestnut, was estab- lished in 1825, and was originally con- nected \ni\\ the college at Canonsburgh, but is now an independent institution. The number of pupils averages about 300 annually. It has an anatomical tnuseum and lecture-room, open to visitors. The College of Physicians, instituted in 1787 and chartered 1789, is one of the principal sources from which proceeds the Pharmacopoeia of the United States. The College Hall is located at the northeast corner of .Locust and Thirteenth Streets, and contains a large and valuable medical library. The Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, in Filbert Street, above Seventh, estab- lished in 1821, was the first regularly or- ganized institution of its kind in the country. The hall was built in 1832. Besides these, Philadelphia has an Eclectic and Homceopalhic Medical Col- lege, a Female Medical College, College of De^ital Surgery, and several other prom- inent medical institutions. Literary and Scientific Instit0tions. (See also Libraries.) The American Philosophical Society, founded in 1743, has its hall at the south- west corner of South Fifth and Chestnut Streets. It owes its origin mainly to the efforts and influence of Franklin, Gov. John Penn, and the active members of "the Junto," a once celebrated scientific association, organizsd in 1727. The site of the present building was donated by the State (1785), and the building erected and occupied in 1790. It has a library of 25,000 volumes, and a choice collection of minerals, fossils, and ancient relics. The Committee-Room should be visited. For admission to the hall, apply to the librarian, J. P. Wesley. The Franklin Institute, situated at No. 155 Seventh Street, below Market, was 9 Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphta. incorporated in 1824. Its members are very numerous, composed of manufac- iturers, artists, mechanics, and persons Ifriendly to the mechanic arts. The an- nual (October) exhibitions of this Insti- tute never fail to attract a large number of visitors. It has a library of about 18,000 volumes, and an extensive reading- i'oom, where most of the periodicals of the day may be found. Lectures are given on Tuesday and Thursday of each v/eek, from October to April. Strangers admitted on application to M. W. Ham- ilton, secretary. The Academy of Natural Sciences, founded 1812, incorporated ISl^, is well worthy a visit. The present building, which is at the intersection of Broad and -Ransom Streets, in the immediate vicinity bf the Union League and La Pierre tfouse, was commenced May 25, 1839, md enlarged in 184*7-1853. The main hall is 45 feet by 28, with spacious gal- leries. The library is one of the most 3omplete of its kind in the United States. See Libraries.) The Collection of Orni- thological works and specimens is espe- bially rich, as is also the Cabinet of Bot- iny. The Cabinets of Geology and Min- eralogy are also very complete. The entire collection of the Museum embraces pver 200,000 specimens. Admission by bembers' tickets on Tuesday and Friday ifternoons. Tickets also of E. Parish, 500 Arch Street. I The Historical Society of Pennsylvania, lounded for the purpose of diffusing a knowledge of local history, especially in [elation to the State of Pennsylvania, has ts rooms in the upper floor of the Athe- iseum Building, corner of Sixth and Adel- )hi Streets. It has caused to be pub- ished a large amoimt of information on Iubjects connected with the early history f the State, and is now actively engaged ;dth similar pursuits. Here are pre- erved an original portrait of Penn, be- ieved to be the only one in existence, he helt of wampum presented to Penn, ly the Leni-Lenape sachems at the amous treaty in 1682, and other inter- sting relics. Open every Monday (July nd August excepted). The University of Pennsylvania, Ninth 'treet, between Chestnut and Market treets, is a prominent edifice, occupying a great portion of the entire square. The University was founded as a charity school and academy in 1745, erected into a college in 1755, and subsequently into a university in 1797. In 1798, the trustees of the University purchased from the State what was then the President's (United States) House. This building was enlarged in 1807, and finally re- moved in 1828, to make way for the present structures. The University em- braces four departments, viz. : the Aca- demical, the Collegiate, the Medical, and the Law. (See Medical College.) The Polytechnic College of Pennsyl- vania, on West Penn Square, Market Street, is organized on the plans of the Industrial Colleges of France and Ger- many, and comprises a Scientific School, and six Technical Schools. It was in- corporated in 1853. The Wagner Free Institute, the gift of Professor "Wagner, is near the corner of Columbia Avenue and Thirteenth Street. The fine residences of Edwin Forrest and Thomas J. Mackenzie, are in the neigh- borhood. Libraries. — (See also Literary and Scientific Institutions.) There are up- ward of 20 public libraries in Philadel- phia, containing 300,000 volumes. The Philadelphia Library, sometimes called the Franklin Library, founded in 1731, through the influence of Benja- min Franklin and the .members of the " Junto," stands on South Fifth (No. 125), near Chestnut Street. The first importation of books was received Oc- tober, 1732. In 1744 the Union Library Company was incorporated with it. The corner-stone of the present library build- ing was laid August 31, 1789. Over the front entrance is a marble statue of Franklin, executed in Italy, by order of William Bingham. The library is rich in early printed works, and works -on American history. Valuable donations of books have been made by William Logan, Samuel Preston, Robert Barclay, and William Mackenzie. The number of volumes, including the Loganian Library, is 85,000, and is increasing at the rate of 2,000 annually. Admission .free from 10 o'clock till sunset. Lloyd P. Smith, librarian. The Mercantile Library, near the Fhil- '147 PniLADELPniA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [PUILADELPIIIA. adelphia Library, was founded in 1821, and the present Ijuilding erected in 1845, at a cost of $23,199. Library numbers 40,000 volumes. Ojien from nine a. m. to ten p. M. daily. John Edraands, librarian. The Library belonging to the Acad- emy of Natural Sciences, northwest cor- ner Broad and Sansom Streets, contains 26,000 volumes. The Athsjueum, on Sixth Street, comer of Adelphi, is generally visited by stran- gers. This institution was established February 9, 1814, and opened in the fol- lowing month, over " Gary's book-store," southeast corner of Chestnut and Fourth Streets. The corner-stone of the present edifice was laid November 1, 1845, and the hall opened in 1847. Cost $50,000. The second story contams a library, news and reading rooms, and a chess-room. The library numbers 25,000 volumes, John W. White, librarian. In a hall in the third story of the Athenaeum is the Library Qf the Historical Society of Penn- sylvania, which, though small, contains many valuable works. The collection of official documents relating to the early French Revolution preserved here num- bers 1,000. The medical history of the American Revolution, known as the " Potts Papers," and the original manu- script report of Mason and Dixon's sur- veys, are also kept here, together with the only original life-portrait of William Penn ever taken. An antique clock by Fromantell, of Amsterdam (1659), is worthy of notice. The whole number of volumes, bound and unbound, is 18,4*70. Richard Eddy, librarian. The Apprentices' Library, corner of Ffth and Arch Streets, has 22,000 vol- umes. It was founded in 1821, and is open to the youth of both sexes. Friends^ Library, 304 Arch Street, has 7,000 volumes. John L. Stokes, libra- rian. Law Association Library, Court-House, southeast corner of Chestnut and Sixth Streets, organized 1862; 7,500 volumes. Art Societies. — The Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, founded in 1805, and incorporated 1806, has a fine build- ing, with a noble suite of galleries on Chestnut Street; entrance, 1025 Chest- nut Street, between Tenth and Eleventh Streets. It possesses a very valuable and 148 permanent collection of pictures, and holds an annual exhibition of new works (April to June). Among the more prom- inent pictures on exhibition are, Death on the Pale Horse, and Chriit Rejected, by West ; and the Dead Man Restored, by Washington Allston. The Relief of Ley- den, by Wittkamp, is also a fine picture. Admission 25 cents ; catalogue extra. The Artists' Fund Society, 1334] Chestnut Street, offers a fine exhibitionJ of American art. The rooms of the Numismatic Society of Philadelphia are at 524 Walnut Street, facing Independf^ ence Square (former number 927 Market), The School of Design for Women, estab- ' lished in 1850, is on Penn Square and Filbert Street. Benevolext akd Charitable Ixstitc- TioNs. — The hospitals, asylums, and other charities of the city, number more than 100. The following are best worthy a visit, viz. : The Pennsylvania Hospital, in Pine Street, between Eighth and Ninth Streets, is an admirable institution, founded in 1751. It contains an anatomical museum and a library of more than 10,000 vol- umes ; A. F. Miller, librarian. In the rear of the lot, fronting on Spence Street, is a small building, which formerly con- tained West's celebrated picture of Christ Heeding the Sick, presented to this insti- tution by its author, and now in the Insane Asylum. Admission, Monday and Thursday afternoons. The comer- stone of the east wing was laid May 28, 1755 ; the west wing was erected in 1796, and the centre in 1805. A statue of Penn stands in the lawn facing Pine Street. The County Almshouse, situated on the west side of the Schuylkill, facing the river opposite South Street, is an im- mense structure, consisting of four main buildings, each 500 feet front, cov- ering and enclosing about 10 acres of ground. The site is much elevated above the bank of the river, and commands a fine view of the city and surrounding country. Connected with the Almshouse is a hospital with accommodations for 600 patients. Pennsylvania Lnsane (Asylum) Hospi- tal, West Philadelphia, between West- chester and Haverford roads. It con- iOPfllLADELPHIA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philabfxphia. tains male and female departments, and was first opened in 1841. The grounds attached to it embrace 114 acres. The main front is 430 feet long. Christ Heal- ing the Sick, by West, is on exhibition here. Visitors admitted every day, ex- cept Saturday and Sunday. The Market Street (W. P.) cars run direct to the Hos- pital. The United Steites Marine Hospital, founded 183B, has a handsome situation ou the east bank of the Schuylkill, below ::'outh Street. It is for the use of invalid seamen and officers disabled in the ser- vice (see United States Naval Asylum). Tlie Pennsylvania Irtstitute for the Deetf and Dumb is situated on the corner of Ciisad and Pine Streets. The present ijuilding was erected in 1825, from de- -i-ns by Haviland, at a cost of $80,000. Ibc Pennsylvania Institxition for the Pa- arurtion of the Blind, situated in Race street, corner of Twenty-first, should be .•i,-ited. iThe Preston Retreat, another famous charity, the bequest of Dr. Jonas Preston, occupies the square bounded by Twen- [ieth, Twenty-first, Hamilton, and Spring Barden Streets. Admission daily. The House ' of Refuge is on Twenty- ecoud Street and Girard Avenue, in the fear of the Penitentiary ; the House of ^orredion is at Bush Hill ; and WilVs hospital is on Pace Street, opposite Lo- an Square. Churches, etc. — The wish of the city's bunder, Pcnn, that every one might wor- hip God according to the dictates of his iwn conscience, seems to have been most eligiously carried out by its citizens. Ee- igious societies have multiplied exceed- pgly, and church edifices have kept pace Q increase. These now number 8*70 jgainst 159 in 1848, of which '76 belong p the Presbyterian denomination, 65 to |he Episcopal, and 34 to the Roman Jatholic. But 14 belong to the Friends llr Quakers. We enumerate those only est worthy the stranger's attention : : The Ceithedred Church of St. Peter and )t. Paid, on Logan Square, Eighteenth treet, is built of red stone, and is the irgest and most imposing church edifice 1 the city. The plan of the edifice is hat of the modern Roman cruciform hurches, having a nave in the centre. It was commenced in September, 1846, from designs by Le Brun, and opened for wor- ship in 1862. The front portico was de- signed by Notman, and is much admired. The dome rises to a height of 210 feet. It has a fine organ and fresco paintings.- The altar-piece, by Brumidi, is conspicu- ous for its fine coloiing. The Church of St. Marks (Episcopal), on Locust Street, near Sixteenth Street, is a beautiful Gothic edifice of light-red sandstone, with a tower and steeple of admirable grace. It was erected in 1849, from designs by Notman. Christ Church, on Second Street, above Market, with its soaring spire, is a very interesting object in its ancient and quaint aspect. In the steeple, which is 196 feet high, is a fine chime of bells. It was commenced in 1Y2'7, and completed in 1'753. This church was organized in^ 1695, and, until the erection of the pres- ent building, worship was conducted in a log chapel. The communion service, pre- sented by Queen Anne in 1*708, is unique. Washington worshipped here. The Church of the Incetrnation, south- east corner of Broad and Jefferson Streets, the corner-stone of which was laid July 28, 1866, is a handsome edifice. It is of Liperville granite, relieved by corners of Pictou stone. The Church of Calvary (Presbyterian), in Locust Street, and the Baptist church in Broad and Arch Streets, are also of sandstone, with imposing towers and spires. AVe may also mention among the churches of the greatest architectural in- terest, St. Stepheii's (Episcopal), on Fourth Street, below Market, built 1823, in the Gothic style, and the Catholic Church of the Assumption, St. Judo's, the Presbyte- rian churches upon Arch and Eighteenth Streets, and upon Arch and Tenth Streets ; the Church of the Nativity, and the Bap- tist churches on Chestnut and Fifth Streets. St. Peter's Church, at the intersection of Pine and Third Streets, is a venerable edifice, founded 1*758, and finished 1761. In the yard is a mouument to Commodore Decatur. In the towers of St. Peter's, St. Stephen's, and of Christ Church there are chimes of bells. The Swedes' Church, Southwark, in the vicinity of the Navy Yard, should not be 149 Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. forgotten by the visitor. It is the oldest church edifice in the city, having been erected in 1700. Previous to that year, the site upon wliich it stands was occu- pied by a log building, which served both as a place of worship, and a block-house to protect against Indian attacks. This building, which constituted the original Swedes' Cliwch, was erected in 16'7'7, four years before the arrival of Penn. In the yard of the present edifice is the grave of Wilson the ornithologist. The meeting-houses of the Friends are interesting only from association. The first, erected in 1685, has long since been torn down. Previous to that the meet- ing of the Friends took place near the Treaty-Ground, at Shackamaxon (1681). That on the corner of Arch and Fourth is best worth a visit. Next to the Swedes' Church it has the oldest burying-ground in the city. William Penn spoke over the grave of the first person buried here. The building on Arch Street, corner of Fifth, is interesting as having been built and used by the " Fighting Quakers " of the Revolution. It is now occupied as the ApprenUces' Library. St. Andrew's Church, on Eighth Street, near Spence, has an imposing fa9ade. It is copied from the Temple of Bacchus at Taos, and is considered the most perfect specimen of the Grecian Ionic order in the city. Cemeteries. — Philadelphia can boast a larger number of beautiful cemeteries perhaps than any other city of the Union. First and most attractive among them is Laurel Hill. This beautiful rural bury- ing-ground, the second in respect to age, and by many esteemed the first in point of beauty in the Union, is situated on Eidge Avenue, near the " falls " of the Schuylkill, on the east bank of that pic- turesque stream. It is easily reached by the street-cars from any portion of the city, or by boat up the Schuylkill from Fairmount. The bank, upon which a great portion of the original Laurel Hill is laid out, and many of the finer monu- ments are erected, is 110 feet high, and commands a most charming view of the river. No more fitting or beautiful spot ior a cemetery is to be found in the country. Old (North) Laurel Hill was founded in 1835, and laid out by John 150 Jay Smith, Esq., President of the present Laurel Hill Company; it embraced ori- ginally but 20 acres. The surface is un- dulating, prettily diversified by hill and dale, and adorned with a number of rare and beautiful trees. The irregularity of the ground, together with the foliage, shrubs, and fragrant flowers, which here abound, with an extensive and diversified view, make the whole scene highly im- pressive. " Htished as this scene thy aocents be ; " The voiceless solitude of death Breathes more than mortal majesty." The additions to the cemetery grounds embrace more than 130 acres, and are respectively known as "Central" and " South Laurel Hill." Approaches to the different portions of the entire ceme- tery lead from Ridge Avenue, which bounds it on the east. The western or river front extends more than a mile in length. North Laurel Hill, being the oldest and most finished, should be visited first. The group near the main entrance, known as " Old Mortality," by Thom, is finely executed and will com- mand attention. The Chapel on the brow of the hill, a little to the right of Old Mortality, is a Gothic structure with a large stained-glass Vi'indow. Improve- ments are being made hereabouts which will add much to the beauty of the ground. The Superintendents hell is close by the chapel. Opposite the chapel is the monument to General Hugh Mercer, who fell at Princeton, and not far off the tomb of Commodore Hull ; the remains of Commodores Murray, La- valette, and Hassler are also near by. The vault of. Dr. Kane, the Arctic ex- plorer, is underneath the brow of the hill, overlooking the Schuylkill, and is cut from the sohd rock. Among the more prominent monuments recently erected at Laurel Hill are those to General F. Pat- terson, Henry P. Voorhees, Mrs. Kemp- ton, and Miss Bailey. The last, which is] of Aberdeen granite, is much admired.! The granite obelisk to Charles Thomson,! perpetual Secretary of the ContinentaiF Congress, and the Hassler monument are both fine specimens of art. GodfreJ the inventor of the quadrant, Judge Coi rad, the author of " Jack Cade," Dr. El Philadelphia.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia. M, Bird and Brown, the novelists, Joseph C. Neal, the author of the " Char- coal Sketches," and Joseph S. Lewis, the , projector and builder of Fairmount Water-works, are all buried here. But the great attraction of Laurel Hill, and that which preeminently distinguishes it among other public burying-grounds, is its unique garden landscape, and the profusion of valuable trees, shrubs, and flowers which adorn and beautify it. Amongst the former, of more than ordi- nary interest, are some cedars of Leb- iinon, the first which bore fruit in the Unite.d States, and noble specimens of the weeping ash, which thrive finely. The great want of Laurel Hill, a good di'ive, is now being supplied. Admis- sion every day, except Sunday, from nine o'clock until sunset. No tickets are necessary except to drive in, and these are occasionally furnished on application to the secretary or treasurer at 624 Wal- nut Street, Philadelphia. Glenwood, at the intersection of Eidge Road and Islington Lane, is prettily sit- uated on the ridge which divides the waters flowing into the Delaware, from those falling into the Schuylkill. It contains 21 acres. OfiS.ce, 16 North Seventh Street Mount Vernon, on Eidge Avenue, op- posite Laurel Hill, will repay a visit. It has a handsome entrance. Momunent Cemetery, situated on Broad Street, in the vicinity of Turner's Lane, about three miles from the State House, was opened in 1838, and now contains many handsome tombs. Office, 141 North Sixth Street. HonaJdson's Cemetery is in Shippen Street, between Ninth and Tenth. Odd Felloios' Cemetery, Twenty-fourth Street and Islington Lane, contains S2 acres, and is intersected by spacious avenues. - Woodlandsi, on the Darby road, beyond the Schuylkill, though comparatively a new cemetery, has many attractions, and commands some fine views. It is 80 I acres in extent. I The burying-grounds attached to the Swedes' and Christ Churches, and the Friends' Burial- Ground, at the junction |i of Arch and Pourth, contain some inter- esting monuments. (See Churches.) Prisons. — The prison or penitentiary system of Pennsylvania, first adopted in 1'794, and perfected in 1829, reflects last- ing credit on its projectors, and is well worthy the attention of all interested in this deeply important subject. The Eastern Penitentiary, in the northwest part of the city, is situated on the prop- erty once known as Cherry Hill, on Coates Street, corner of Twenty-fifth Street, and south of Girard College. It covers about 10 acres of ground, is sur- rounded by a wall 80 feet high, and in architecture resembles a baronial castle of the middle ages. It is constructed and conducted on the principle of strictly solitary confinement in separate cells, and is' admirably calculated for the se- curity, the health, and, so far as is con- sistent with its objects, the comfort of its occupants. It was finished in 1829, at a cost, including the purchase of the site, of $600,000. The average number con- fined here yearly is 350. Previous to the erection of this penitentiary, the old Walnut Street Prison was used for the custody of convicts. The Coimty [Moyamensing] Prison, sit- uated on Passyunk road, Moyamensing District, below Tenth Street, is a spacious Indo-Gothic building. It is constructed of Quincy gramte, is three stories high, and presents an imposing appearance. It is appropriated to the confinement of persons awaiting trial, or those who are sentenced for short periods. It is managed by a board of 15 inspectors. Admission by ticket. The Debtors' Prison, adjoining the above on the north, is constructed of red sandstone, in a style of massive Egyptian architecture. It is no longer used as a debtors' prison. The House of Refvge is situated in Parish Street, between Twenty-second and Twenty-fourth Streets, near Girard College. City oflSce, northeast corner of Arch and Seventh Streets. Visitors ad- mitted Monday, Wednesday, and Friday afternoons. Every needful facility for vis- iting the above prisons will be furnished on application at the Mayor's office, or to Mr. Eichard Vaux, No. 620 Walnut Street. Markets. — The Markets of Phila- delphia, 24 in number, are, many of them, worthy of special notice, for their great extent and admirable appointment. 161 PUILADELPHIA.J PENNSYLVANIA. [PniLADELPllIA. The FranMln Market, on Tenth Street, above Market, is best worthy of a visit. In front of this market-house is a statue of Franklin, 10 feet high, cut in free- stone. Bridges. — There are nine bridges in and near Philadelphia. The following are best worthy a visit, viz. : Iron Bridge, across the Schuylkill, at Chestnut Street. It was commenced September 19, 1861, and completed July, 1866, and is the first cast-iron bridge built in the United States. It is 390 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 40 feet above high water. It is 1,200 tons, weight, and cost half a million dollars. Fair mount Suspension Bridge is an ele- gant structure, built (1841) by Mi'. Ellet, and closely resembling the Niagara sus- pension bridge, built by the same archi- tect; cost $55,000. The Market Street Bridge is of wood, resting on stone piers. It was erected in 1798, and cost $.300,000. A third bridge is in contemplation across the Schuylkill at South Street. Banks. — The banking-houses of Phila- delphia are conspicuous rather for their solid, substantial appearance than for any architectural display. Of the 31 banks in the city, the following are best worthy the stranger's notice : The Bank of Pennsylvania, on Second Street, south of Chestnut, is constructed of Pennsylvania marble, and has two ornamental porticoes. It was commenced in 1799, and finished in 1801. The building was bought by the Government for the purposes of the Post-OfBce, but never used. Immediately opposite is an old building, once occupied by Penn, and known as the " Slate-Roof House." The Girard Bank, on Third Street, be- low Chestnut, is a stately edifice, origi- nally built for the first United States Bank (l'795-'98). A few mementoes of Girard are here preserved. The Bank of North America, on Chest- nut Street, built of brown stone, n the modern Florentine style, is worthy of no- tice as having been the first bank estab- lished in this country, December, 1781. The Philadelphia Bank, an imposing granite structure, is on Chestnut Street, between Fourth and Fifth. It was char- tered in 1804. This edifice, as well as that of the Farmers and Mechajiics' Bank adjoining, are among the finest 152 banking-houses in the city. The Firai National Bank is a solid granite struc- ture, just completed, on Chestnut Street, near Third. A week well employed will suffice, in moderately favorable weather, to show the visitor the principal objects of inter- est in and around Philadelphia, though a fortnight might be profitably spent there. To those desirous of " doing it," as the phrase goes, in the shortest possible time, the street cars offer the cheapest, and, all things considered, the most expe- ditious means. For a complete fist of the several main and branch roads and routes, . of which there are nearly thirty under the control of nineteen companies, the stranger had better consult the City Directory, published by A. McElroy, and to be found at all the hotels. As these routes are frequently miles in length, and are laid, in many cases, through the prin- cipal throughfares and streets, the wary stranger will be enabled to see many of the objects described in these pages, with- out so much as moving from his seat. Vicinity. — The vicinity of Philadelphia abounds in pretty romantic spots, and picturesque drives and walks. Laurel Hill and neighboring cemeteries, Girard College, and the famous water-works at Fairmount, have already been described. After visiting Fairmount, the visitor should extend his ride up the Wissahickon Creek, a stream remarkable for its ro- mantic and beautiful scenery, which falls into the Schuylkill about five miles above the city. It has a regular succession of mill-dams, which in the aggregate amount to about 700 feet. Its banks, for the most part, are elevated and pre- cipitous, covered with a dense forest, and diversified by moss-covered rocks of every variety. The banks of the beautiful Wissahickon afford one of the most de- lightful drives in the vicinity of Philadel- phia. The route is via Eidge Avenue to Laurel Hill, and thence via Wissahickon road. A charming trip may be made from Fairmount by steamer up the Schuyl- kill to Mount Pleasant, Laurel Hill, etc. The scenery along the shores of the Schuylkill Eiver is famous for its varied beauty. Few tourists behold its " sloping glens and silent shades " without admira- tion: PUILADELPHIA.] PENNSYLVAJSIA. [PUILADELPHIA. " Each scene delights — the breeze that roves In hollow murmurs through the groves, The sunlight dancing down the stream, Or darting through the trees with fainter gleam— These, and unnumbered charms alternate rise To walje sweet musing, and to feast the eyes." Excursion-boats every hour daily during the summer months. On leaving Fairmount an extensive view of the west front of the city is pre- sented, embracing the Gas-works, the Suspension Bridge, Penitentiary, and Girard College, and several handsome private mansions, aniong which are Soli- tude, Egglesfield, Sweet Brier, more fully noticed in our brief sketch of old Phila- delphia. Fountain Green, on the eastern bank, was until late years a rural spot of much beauty. Nearly opposite to this are seen the ruins of the Lansdowne Manor -Iwiine. This old relic, built by John Penn, and interesting as the headquarters of Gen- eral Washington during the War of In- dependence, was almost entirely destroy- ed by fire a few years ago. It is now in the hands of a laud company. A fine view is had from the site. The boats on the river call at Mount Pleasant landing, and afford opportunities for passengers to visit the neighborhood. The Sclmylkill Viaduct, three miles northwest from the city, is 980 feet in length, and is crossed by the Reading liailroad. Xorth of the Reading Bridge, on the west shore, stands an old cottage, said to have been the residence at one time of the poet Tom Moore. (See Moore's Cottage.) From the landing at Laurel Hill (four miles) that beautiful ground and the ad- joining cemeteries on Ridge Avenue are easily accessible. Ihe Falls of the Srhtyl- ktll (four miles) are seen to advantage from the boat. Manayunk, seven miles from the centre of the city, is a large manufacturing place. It is indebted for its existence to the water- power created by the improvement of the Schuylkill, which serves the double purpose of rendering the stream naviga- ble, and of supplying hydraulic power to the numerous factories of the village. It is readied by street cars on Ridge road, as well as by the boat on the river, and may best be visited in connection with the cemeteries, the falls on the Schuylkill, and the Wissahickon, which lie between Manayunk and the city on the same route. Germantoum, now included in the twenty-second ward 'of the city, was laid out in 1684, and consists mainly of one long street. It is sis miles north from Chestnut Street, and may be reach- ed every fifteen minutes by city railroad and steam cars. The street car route lies up Eighth Street and Germantown road, and terminating at Mount Airy. The battle of Germantown was fought October 4, 11^1. Washington's headquarters, on Market Square, and Button Ball Tree Tavern, are still to be seen. Here are fine cricketing and base-ball grounds. Chew's House is a noteworthy object. Many handsome private residences are seen from the Germantown road. Nicetown, through which the street railway passes, is a pleasant rural village, inhabited main- ly by Germans and Swiss. Greenwich Point, about three miles below the city, and Gloucester Point, di- rectly opposite, are favorite places of resort through the summer season. Ferry from South Street, Philadelphia. Camden, New Jersey, opposite Phil- adelphia, is the termmus of the Cam- den and Amhoy, the Camden and Atlan- tic, and West Jersey (Cape May) Railways. It was incorporated in 1831, and is a place of considerable trade and manufac- ture, and has a population of nearly 20,000. Four steam fei'ry lines connect it with Philadelphia. (See Feeries.) Red Bank, on the Jersey shore of the Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia, has some interesting historical associa- tions. Here (at Fort Mercer) a battle was fought, October 22, \111. The embank- ment and trenches of the fort are still seen. The house of Whitehall, the Tory Quaker, and Coxint Dojiop's grave, are both pointed out. Opposite Red Bank, on Great Mud Island, is Fort Mifflin. Lying between Forts Mercer and Mifiliu is League Island, the proposed site of the new Navy Yard. A marble monument, 15 feet high, erected October 22, 1829, to commemorate the battle, stands within the northern line of the fort. Chestnut Hill affords a pleasant drive 153 PUILADELPHIA.] PExVNSYLVANIA. [PllILADELrniA. or ride. It is witliin tlie corporate limits, 12 miles north of tlie State House, and can be reached )jy tlie Philadelphia, Ger- mantown, and Norrktown R. li. The Hospital, used for army purposes during the late war, is worth visiting. Wldtcmarsh is interesting as the scene of a skirmish following the battle of Ger- mantown, and as the headquarters of Washington. It is situated in a beauti- ful little valley north of Chestnut Hill, 14 miles from Philadelphia, and 6 from Ger- mantown. Norristown, the county seat of Mont- gomery County, is on the left bank of the Schuylkill, 16 miles from Philadelphia. It is the seat of justice of Montgomery County, and contains a fine Court- House of marble, and prison buildings. The Schuylkill is here spanned by two bridges, which connect Norristown with Bridge- port. Westchester is a beautiful suburb of Philadelphia, finely situated on elevated ground, 22 miles west of the city. The Coicrt-House and 3filitary Academy are worthy of notice. Eeached by cars almost hourly, either on Westchester and Phila- delphia Railioay, via Media, or on the Central Raihvay, via Paoli. After visiting the more important pub- lic woi'ks and buildings of the city, and the objects and points of interest in its vicinity, a stroll in the Old District, or what was once " the city " of Philadel- phia, will well repay the stranger. Among the relics of the past still left undisturbed by the march of improvement, are the Pe}in Cottage, and the Slate-Roof House. The former of these is located in Letitia Street, which is not a street, but a nar- row, dingy court or lane, opening out from Market Street, between Pirst and Second. It is thought to have been the first brick building erected in Philadelphia, and was the residence of William Peun during his first visit to the city (1682-'83). Since then it has been successively occupied as a tavern, bakery, and cigar-store, and is now used as a lager-bier saloon and Gast- haus by Adam Best, whose sign-board, embellished with a foaming tankard,-^ sur- mounts its humble doorway. It is still in a good state of preservation, but is almost lost to view in the maze of buildings which surround it. 154 The Slate-Roof House, another inter- esting old landmark, is easily reached from the Cottage by crossing over Chest- nut Street. It is on the corner of Second and Gothic Street (Norris Alley), and immediately opposite the Old Bank of Pennsylvania. The year of its erection is uncertain. William Penn and his family occupied it in 1700. It was sold, to William Trent, the founder of New Jer- sey, in 1*703. In it John Penn, " the American," was born. There- Generals Forbes and Charles Lee died. It was also occupied at different times by Adams, Hancock, De Kalb, and other distin- guished men. Arnold also occupied it while military governor of the city in 1*778. The building has been but little altered from what it originally was. The corner store (131 South Second Street) is now occupied by a dealer in gold and silver. The whole structure is to be I'e- moved, to make way for the new Corn Exchange. Soon not a relic of the early days of Pennstown will be left. On Third Street, between Willing's Alley and Spence Street, the Washington Hall oc- cupies the site of the old Bingham man- sion. Penn's country residence (palace) was at Pennsbury Manor, above Bristol. Here was the famous Hall of Audience. Carpenter''s Hall, south of Chestnut Street, below Fourth, should be visited. Here assembled the first Congress of the United Colonies. If is a plain brick building of two stories, surmounted by a cupola. . The Old London Coffce-House {1101), Zoxley^s House (home of Lydia Bar- rack), and the Indian Queen Hotel, where Jefferson resided, have long been torn down. HullsJieimer^s New House, where Jef- ferson permed the Declaration of Inde- pendence, is still standing, at the south- west corner of Market and Sevenvh Streets. The chamber is frequently vis- ited, and should continue to be, as long as it stands. Solitude, once the country residence of John Penn, is on the west bank of the Schuylkill, and may be seen not far from the falls, by the visitor at Fairmount. It is built of lough-cut stone. Says a late writer: " This noted abode of the Penns is fiist losing its interest and beauty. A i PHI A. uliiig 'e at es an view cture land, iaby d as .'itish twas was iklin, and sided ginal e of bot- ntry. 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Norrist )mery C' 3huylkill the se ounty, a ' marbl( jhuylkill hioh 001 ort. Wesiclu hiladelpl round, 2! ■oicrt-Ho. orthy of ourly, ei elphia 1 lentral L After V works le objee icinity, £ 'hat was hia, will hie relics y the m ^enn Cot 'he form Itreet, wl ow, ding) larket & t is thoi luilding ( he reside irst visit hen it hz . tavern, low used laiis by imbellish nounts it 1 goodstt ost to V vhich sui ^ E^ILADELPHIA.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Philadelphia.. few years more and it will, no doubt, be imong the things that were." Already " The shadows of departed hours Hang dim upon its lonely flowers; Even the sunshine seems to brood In sadness o'er the ruins of Solitude." The Lebanon. — All that remains of ;hiri once famous resort may be seen at ;he southwest corner of Tenth and Car- )enter Streets. The Grave of FranMin is worthy of lotlce. It is at the southeast corner of ircli and Fifth Streets. The Elm-Tree^ under which the famous reaty between Penn and the Indians was nade, was blown down in 1809. A ihair made from the wood is preserved in he collection of the Historical Library iVssociation. I Moore^s Cottage, an old white cottage juilding, which stands on the west bank if the Schuylkill, above the Reading Railroad bridge, and opposite Peter's island, is pointed out as having been jnce the residence of Tom Moore the oet, and the spot where he wrote his oem — Alone hy the Schuylkill a wanderer roved, And dear were the flowery banks to his eye," 'his is traditionary, however, and is oubted by many early settlers and local istorians. It is known that Moore visit- i Philadelphia; but that he had any jxed abode, or even temporary residence 1 this locality, is extremely doubtful. Penn's RocJc, a mile-stone, raised by v'illiam Penn, and bearing his coat-of- rms, is still standing on the road to 'addington. On this rock, tradition says, Penn and his wife ate their dinners " hile the founder of the city was engaged I laying out the Haverford road. SBarta-am, the elegant country seat Andrew M. Eastwick, Esq., will well pay a visit. It is on the west banli of Schuylkill, in the immediate vicinity I<^ Eastwick Skating Park, and is fe^ached from Gray's Ferry road by ' )y car-line. ^Id Bartr-am mansion, which oc- le centre of the present grounds was built by John Bartram in It is in good preservation, and affords a fine specimen of the prevailing style of country-house architecture at that day. It is of stone, and occupies an eminence commanding an extended view of the Schuylkill, winding to its juncture with the Delaware at League Island. During the occupancy of Philadelphia by the British, the building was used as headquarters by some of the British officers, and thus escaped damage. It was a favorite resort of Washington, and was frequently visited by Jefferson, Frankliu, and other distinguished residents and frequenters of the city. Here resided William Bartram, son of the original proprietor, and distinguished as one of the leading botanists and writers on bot- any and ornithology in the country. Here, and in the adjoining garden, Alex- ander Wilson and Thomas Nuttall pur- sued many of their life-long scientific la- bors. NuttaWs chamber, in the mansion, is still pointed out. The Botanic Garden, adjoining, is the pride of Bartram. It was pronounced by the lamented Down- ing " the most interesting garden in Amer- ica to every lover of trees." In 1815 it came into the possession of late Colonel Robert Carr, who served in the war of 1812, and in 1850 it was purchased by its present owner. MOTTTE I. PEILADELPEIA TO PITTSBURG AND THE WEST. {Via Pennsylva7iia Central RaUtcay.') Stations . — Philadelphia ; White- hall, 10 miles ; Paoli, 20; W^estchester Intersection, 22 ; Oakland, 29 ; Downing- ton, 33 ; Parkesburg, 44 ; Christian, 49 ; Gap, 52 ; Leaman Place, 58 ; Lancaster, 69; Dillerville, '70; Landisville, 11; Mount Joy, 82 ; Columbia Branch Inter- section, 96 ; Harrisburg, 106 ; North Cen- tral Crossing, 113; Duncannon, 121; Millerstown, 139; Mifflin, 155; Lewiston, 167 ; Mount Union, 192 ; Huntingdon, 204 ; Petersburg, 210 ; Tyrone, 224 ; Al- toona, 238; Gallitzin, 250; Cressen, 253; Wilmore, 263 ; Conemaugh, 2'74 ; Nine- veh, 286 ; Lockport, 295 ; Blairsville In- tersection, 301; Latrobe, 314; Greens- burg, 324 ; Penn Station, 329 ; Manor, 155 Whitehall.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Lancastj 331 ; Turtle Creek 342 ; Brinton's, 343 ; Pittsburg, 355. This fine line constitutes one of the great highways from the Atlantic to the Mississippi States. It extends 355 miles from the city of Philadelphia, through the entire length of Pennsylvania, to the Ohio River at Pittsburg, connecting there with routes for all parts of the Southwest, West, and Northwest. Through trains (15 hours to Pittsburg) run, morning, noon, and night. Philadelphia station, southeast comer of Thirtieth and Market Streets. IVliiteliall (10 miles). Near the station is Haverford College, belonging to an association of Friends. It is on the left of the road, surrounded by an ex- tensive lawn. Near by is the bii'thplace of Benjamin West. Villa Nova, a short distance farther on, is the seat of a Eo- man Catholic college. Paoli (20 miles), the scene of an action (September 20, ijl^) between the Amer- ican forces, under General Wayne, and a detachment of British troops, under Gray, better known as the PaoU massacre. A monument, erected September, 181Y, marks the spot. The scenery beyond Paoli, through the limestone valley of Chester County, is picturesque. Chester is famous for its highly-cultivated farms and extensive dairies. Two miles beyond Paoli the Westchester Railway intersects the main line. DoTvniJig'ton (33 miles), on the right of the line, is a pretty rural village, on the north branch of the Braudywine Creek. Chad's Ford, 15 miles distant, was the scene of the engagement known as the battle of Brandyicine. The Bir- mingham Friends'' Meetlng-hov.se, where the conflict raged hottest, is farther up the stream. The road crosses the west branch of the Brandywine, near Coates- ville (39 miles), on a bridge 850 feet long and '75 feet high. Parkeslmrg (44 miles), in Chester County, contains several large machine- shops, a hotel, and a population of 600. Passing Penningtonville, three miles beyond, we reach Christiana, the scene of a riot in 1851. Here the road leaves the Chester valley, which it has traversed its entire length of 20 miles, and enters the Pequea valley. The Gaj), through which 156 the railway passes. Is well worthy of ; tice. Hiancaster (69 miles) is prett situated near the Conestoga Creek, whici is crossed in entering the city. It was incorporated in 1818, was at onetime the principal inland town of Pennsylvania, and was the seat of the State Govern- ment from 1799 to 1812. In population (19,000) it now ranks as the fifth city in the State. It is pleasantly situated in the centre of a rich agricultural region, well built, and has many fine edifices, pubUc and private. The Court-Rouse is an im- posing edifice in the Grecian style of archi- tecture. Lancaster is the seat of Marshall College, organized in 1853, in union with the old establishment of Franklin Col- lege, which was foimded in 1787. Fulton Hall, an edifice for the use of pubUc as- semblies, is a noteworthy structure, as are some of the church edifices. The oldest turnpike road in the United States terminates here, 62 miles from Philadel- phia. One of the sources of prosperity of Lancaster is in the navigation of the Conestoga, in a series of nine locks and slack-water pools, 18 miles in length from the town of Safe Harbor on the Susque- hanna, at the mouth of the Conestoga Creek. With the help of Tidewater Canal to Port Deposit, a navigable com- munication is opened to Baltimore. The Ephrata Springs and the Moravian Vil- lage of Litiz are reached from Lancaster. The principal hotels are Michael's and the City. Wheatland, the seat of ex-President James Buchanan, is a few miles from Lancaster. From DillerviUe, one mile beyond Lan- caster, a branch line extends to Columbia. (See COLFMBIA.) ]51itiitucaisi£on (121 miles) is the point of departure for the Juniata valley. (See Juniata.) Our route now follows the banks of the Juniata for about 100 miles to the eastern base of the Alleghanies, the cana, keeping the road and river company most of the way. Ne^Tj^port (134 miles) is located at the confluence of the Little Bufl'alo Creek with the Juniata. Five miles farther on is Millerstown, near the confines of Perry County. The passage of the Juniata through the Great Tuscarora Mountain, one mile west of this station, is worthy of notice. From the point of Law's Ridge, along the face of which the line runs west of Perrysville, a fine view of Mifflin, the county town of Juniata, is to be obtained. Four miles west of MilHin the road enters the Long Narrows, and soon after reaches Lewistoivn, the outlet of the yul- 157 TnE Juniata.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Altooma. ley of Kishicoquillas, once the camping- ground of Logan, the Indian chief. IjCAvisto^vii (13 miles west of Miftlin) is the best point from which to visit the Juniata. The National Hotel has good accommodation. Diives and fisliing in the neighborhood. TTIie Juniata^. — This beautiful river, whose course is closely followed so many miles by the Pennsylvania Central Railroad and Canal, rises in the south central part of the Keystone State, and, flowing eastward, falls into the Susque- hanna about 14 miles above Harrisburg. The landscape of the Juniata is in the highest degree picturesque, and many romantic summer haunts will be found among its valleys ; though at present very little tarry is made in the region, from its attractions being little known, and the comforts of the traveller being as yet but inadequately provided for. The mountain background, as we look continually across the river from the cars, is often strikingly bold and beautiful. The Little Juniata, wbich with the Franks- town branch forms the main river, is a stream of wild, romantic beauty. The en- tire length of the Juniata, including its branches, is estimated at nearly 150 miles, and its entire course is through a region of mountains in which iron ore is abundant, and of fertile limestone val- leys. The Raystown Branch, which rises in the southwest part of Bedford County, enters the Juniata near Huntingdon. Mount Union Station (192 miles) is at the entrance of the gap of Jack's Moun- tain. Three miles beyond is the famous Sidling Hill, and still west the Broad Top Mountain. The latter is reached by rail, 26 miles from Huntingdon. Miaiiitiiag'tlOBB. (204 miles) — Exchange Hotel — is a place of some an- tiquity, having been laid out previous to the Eevolution. It was named after the Countess of Huntingdon. This is an- other good point from which to see the beauties of the Juniata. The Huntingdon and Broad Top Railway to Mount Dallas (44 miles) joins the main line here. From Mount Dallas to Bedford Springs by stage, sis miles. (See Bedford Springs.) At I"etersl> Ill's;, six miles west of Huntingdon, the railroad parts company with the canal, and follows the Little 158 Juniata, wbich it again leaves at Tyrone City. Tyrone City ( Ward House), at the mouth of Little Bald Eagle Creek, is famous for its manufactures of iron. The line here enters Tuckahoe Valley, noted for its iron ore. A branch (Bald Eagle) road extends 81 miles to Williamsport. The Tyrone and Clearfield branch also extends 24 miles to Phillipsburg. Altoona, 11*7 miles east of Pitts- burg, at the head of Tuckahoe valley, and at the foot of the Alleghanies, is im- portant to every traveller, as the best point at which to make a short stay, as well for refreshment as for observation. The Logan House has complete accommo- dation for 500 guests. The workshops of the railway company are worth visit- ing. In 1856 it contained but one log house. A branch road extends eight miles to Hollidaysburg, whence stages run to Bedford Springs, 2'7 miles. (See Bedford Springs.) At Altoona the western-bound traveller commences the ascentof the Alleghanies. In the course of the nest 11 miles some of the finest views and the greatest feats of engineering skill on the entire line are to be seen. Passing through the great tunnel, 3,670 feet long, we reach Gallitzin, named after Prince Gallitzin a noble Rus- sian, who settled at Rosetta, Cambria County, in 1*789, and shortly after com- mence the descent of the western slope of the mountain. Here the Conemaugh comes frequently in sight in its rapid coui'se to the Stony Creek at Johnstown. Passing Crfsson Station (see Ceesson Springs), less than an hour brings us to the stone viaduct over the Conemaugh at the Horseshoe Bend, and immediately be- yond to the Conemaugh Station, the western terminus of the mountain division of the road. «i'©liiistO"W'ii, three miles west of Conemaugh, commands some attractive scenery. The Cambria Iron-Works, seen to the right of the road, are among the most extensive in the country. We are now nearing the point where we shall take leave of the Conemaugh, after following its course fifty miles from the slope of the Alleghanies. One mile east of Blairsville Inf.ersedian is a cutting in the Fack-Saddle Ilountain M iPlTTSBUEG.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Pittsburg. worthy the tourist's attention. From (.his point a branch road leads northward io Blairsville, three miles, and Indiana, 19 miles. Greensburg, 324 miles from Philadel- phia and 31 trom Pittsburf^, is the county leat of Westmoreland County, and a ihriving trading-point. Lines, of stages onnect it with neighboring towns in iPeonsylvania and Maryland. In the yard )f the Presbyterian church, seen as you inter the town, is a monument to Major- tJeneral Arthur St. Clair, a British officer Uncharge of Fort Legonier at the close of |he French War. Penn Station and Manor, a short dis- ;ance west of Greensburg, are interesting IS having formed part of the Penn estate. Twelve miles from Pittsburg the road irosses Turtle Creek, at a place called ^rintoii's. Here the Connellsville branch oins the main line. BraddocJc's Field, the battle-ground on which General Brad- lock was defeated by the French and Indians (July 9, 1755), is in the neighbor- lood, nine miles from Pittsburg. The 5oint where Braddock's army crossed ,he river in their march on Fort Du buesne is seen to the left of the line west )f Brinton's. East Liberty, five miles from Pittsburg, is a thriving suburb, contain- ng some fine residences, and affording a ielightful drive to and from the city. The capacious edifice of the Western Fennsylva7iia Hospital, erected in 1860, it Dixmount, is seen in approaching the !ity on the Pittsburg^ Port Wayne and Ohicago Railroad. I"ittsl>iirg'. — Hotels, the Monon- \]aliela House, Union Pepot Hotel, Si. Qharles, and 3Ier chants^ Hotel. Pittsburg is upon the Ohio Eiver, at the confluence of the Alleghany and the lllonongahela. It is situated in a district !xtremely rich in mineral wealth, and the mterprise of the people has been directed ;o the development of its resources, with m energy and success seldom paralleled. The city of Pittsburg also enjoys, from its situation, admirable commercial facilities, md has become the centre of an exten- sive commerce with the Western States ; ivhile its vicinity to inexhaustible iron ind coal mines has raised it to great ind merited distinction as a manufac- iuring place. The revenue tax paid on the manufactures of Pittsburg for the year ending June 30, 1866, amounted to $2,480,310, representing a capital of up- ward of Itvo Ivwndred millions of dollars. The city was laid out in 1765, on the site of Fort Du Quesne, subsequently changed to Fort Pitt, in honor of England's prime minister, William Pitt. The city charter was granted in 1816. Pittsburg is con- nected with the left bank of the Monon- gahela by a bridge 1,600 feet long, which was erected at a cost of $102,000. Four excellent bridges cross the Alleghany River, connecting Pittsburg with Alle- ghany City. It is usual to speak of exten- sive manufactories as being in Pittsburg, though they are not within the limits ot the city proper, but are distributed over a circle of five miles' radius from the Court- House on Grant's Hill. This space in- cludes the cities of Pittsburg and Al- leghany, the boroughs of Birmingham and Lawrenceville, and a number of towns and villages, the manufacturing establish- ments in which have their warehouses in Pittsburg, and may consequently be deemed, from the close connection of their general interests and business operations, a part of the city. The stranger in Pitts- burg will derive both pleasure and in- struction by a visit to some of its great manufacturing establishments, particu- larly those of glass and iron. The city proper has a population of 65,000, and including its suburban towns, which are now (1867) incorporated with it, the number will fall little short of 180,000. The city is divided into ten wards, and contains 160 streets and upward of 100 courts and alleys. It contains 136 church edifices, among which are several of large size, surmounted by lofty spires. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, at the corner of Fifth and Grant Streets, is an imposing edifice of brick, with a fine tower. The First Baptist Church, recently finished, is also a hand- some structure. The Court-House, facing the cathedral, is a solid stone edifice, surmounted by a dome. The Custom- Hoitse and Post-office is a commodious stone building, and there are several large and substantial public school- houses. But the iron-rolling mills, oil- refineries, and other extensive manufac- tories in the vicinity, constitute the 159 Pittsburg.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Valley Forge. absorbing interest and most character- istic feature of the town. In the vicmity of the city proper there are four ceme- teries. They are named and located as follows, viz. : Allegham/ Cemetery^ adjoin- ing Lawrenceville ; St. Mary's Cemetery, on Greensburg Pilie ; Hilldcde Ceme'.ery, adjoining Alleghany City ; and Mount Union Cemetery, adjoining Manchester, in McClure township. Lewis Street cars connect the city proper with all objects worth visiting in the suburbs. Pittsburg has direct railway communication with the principal cities east and west by means of the Pennsylvania Central : Pittdiurg, Columbus, and Cincinnati ; Pittsburg, Fort Wayne, and Chicago Rail- zcays, and with Lake Erie by the Pttts- burg and Cleveland road. The Alle- ghany Valley Railway to Kittanning (44 miles); and Mahoning (55 miles), and the Pittsburg and Co7inellsville Railway to Connellsville (57 miles), and to Union- town ('72 miles), also diverge here. Boats daily up and down the Ohio River during the season of navigation. There are sev- eral places in the vicinity of Pittsburg which, as they may be considered parts of one great mauufactui'ing and commercial city, are entitled to notice here. Alleghany city, opposite to Pittsburg, on the west side of the Alleghany River, is the most important of them. The elegant resi- dences of many persons doing business in Pittsburg may be seen here, occupy- ing commanding situations. It contains 111 streets and 41 courts and alleys. Here is located the Western Theological Sejninary of the Presbyterian Church, an institution founded by the General As- sembly in 1825, and established in this town in 182*7. Situated on a lofty, insu- lated ridge. 100 feet above the Alleghany, it affords a magnificent prospect. The Theological Seminary of the Associated Reformed Church, established in 1826, and the Alleghany Theological Institute, organized in 1840 by the Synod of the Reformed Presbyterian Church, are also located here. The Western Penitentiary is an immense building, in the ancient Norman style, situated on a plain on the western border of Alleghany City. It was completed in 182*7, at a cost of $183,000. The United States Arsenal is located at Lawrenceville, a small but pretty village 160 two and a half miles above Pittsburg, on the left bank of the Alleghany River. Birmingham is another considerable suburb of Pittsburg, lying about a mile from the centre of the city, on the south side of the Monongahela, and connected with Pittsburg by a bridge, 1,500 feet long, and by a ferry. It has important manufactories of glass and iron. Manchester is two miles below Pitts- burg, on the Ohio. Here is located the House of Refuge, incorporated in 1850. The Passio7iist Monastery is near here. The United States Marine Hospital is yet below. ROUTE II. PHILADELPHIA TO BEADING, IIAR- BISBURG, AND POTTSVILLE. ( Via Philadelphia and Reading Bailway.) Passenger Station. — Broad, corner of Callowhill Street. This road runs through the valley of the Schuylkill, a distance of 58 miles to Reading, and thence 35 miles to Potts- ville, and connects the great anthracite coal-fields with tidewater. (See Reading.) It was opened in 1842, and has cost up- ward of $16,000,000. It has several tun- nels and numerous fine bridges. Stations. — Manayunk, 8 miles ; Con- shohocken, 14; Norristown, 1*7; Port Kennedy, 22 ; Valley Forge, 24 ; Phoenix- ville, 28 ; Rover's Bridge, 32 ; Pottstown, 40 ; Douglasville, 45 ; Reading, 58 ; Leesport, 66 ; Mohrsville, 69 ; Hamburg, 75 ; Port Clinton, 78 ; Auburn, 83 ; Or- wigsburg, 86 ; Schuylkill Haven, 89 ; Pottsville, 93. In leaving the city by this line, the fine stone bridge over the Schuylkill is crossed in full view of Laurel Hill and other objects of .interest already noticed in our sketches of the vicinity of Phila- deli^hia. Valley Forge (23 miles) is memorable as the headquarters of General Washing- ton during the winter of 1777. The building he occupied is still standing nearj the railroad, whence it can be seen. Pottdown (40 miles) is prettily situate^ on the left bank of the SchuylkiU. It wa incorporated in 1815, and has a popul^^ OTTSTILLE.] PENNSYLVANIA. [The Susquehanna. lion of 3,000. The houses, which are l)uilt principally upon one broad street, ire surrounded by fine gardens and ele- ;ant shade-trees. The scenery of the Surrounding hills is very fine, especially in Ihe fall of the year, when the foliage is |inged with a variety of rich autumnal Juts. The Heading Railroad passes rough one of its streets, and crosses e Mauatawny on a lattice bridge, 1,071 et in length. Kead.iiig', the third city of the tate in population and commerce, is leasantly situated on a plain which i^es on the east bank of the Schuylkill, 8 miles by rail from Philadelphia. It as laid out by Thomas and Richard 'eim in 1V48, and was incorporated in i84'7. It is compactly built, and contains ome handsome public buildings, among •inch the Courl-House is the most promi- ent. Its present population is 25,000. he road hence to Harrisburg (54 miles) I known as the Lebanon Valley Ttaihoay. eading has connection eastward, via A\- ;nton and Easton {East Pe^insylvania taiboay) with Central and Northern New 'ersey and New York. The Meading hd Cohmihia Eailway (46 miles long) ins through the rich farming region of erks and Lancaster, past Ephrata and itiz Springs. Port Clinlon^ 78 miles from Philadel- lia, on the Reading Railroad, is a pleas- it place, at the mouth of the Little ;huylkill. This is the point of junction ith the Little Schuylkill and Catawissa lads. Auburn (83 miles), via Tamaqua (20 iles) to Williamsport (120 miles) Schuylkill Haven (89 milts ), on the inks of the Schuylkill, is m the midst of vevj interesting landscape region. The me Hill branch road (distance 24 mites) Ifmes in here from the great coal dis- jict. I IPotf svllle, the terminus of the liiladelphia and Reading route, is 93 •iles from Philadelphia. It is upon the ;:ge of the great coal basin, in the gap 'r which the Schuylkill breaks through iiarp's Mountain. The yield of the |:huylkill coal-field in 1863 was up- !ird" of 33,000,000 tons. This enor- ious product annually reaches market ifough the Reading and Schuylkill Navi- gation Companies' lines. The city, com- menced in 1825, has already a population of 12,000. The Cathedral and Town Hall are worthy of notice. At Pottsville we complete the detour northward into the coal region from the main line of travel over this road, and now return to Read- ing on our route to Harrisburg. THE SUSQUEHANNA AND ITS VICIN- AGE. The Susquehanna is the largest and most beautiful of the rivers of Penn- sylvania, traversing as it does its entire breadth from north to south, and in its most interesting and most important regions. It lies about midway between the centre and the eastern boundary of the State, and flo-v^^s in a zigzag course, now southeast and now southwest, and so on over anc' oper, following very much the windings of the Delaware, which separates the State from New Jersey. The Pennsyhania Canal accompanies it throughout its course from Wyoming on the north to the Chesapeake Bay on the south. All the great railroads inter- sect or approach its waters at some point or other, and the richest coal-lands of the State lie contiguous to its banks. The Susquehanna, in its main branch, rises in Otsego Lake, in the east central part of New York, and pursues a very tortuous but generally southwest course. This main, or North, or East Branch, as it ia severally called, when it reaches the cen- tral part of Pennsylvania — after a course of 250 miles — is joined at Northumber- land by the West Branch, 200 miles long, which flows from the declivities of the Alleghanies. The course of this arm of the river is nearly eastward, and, like the North Branch, through a country abound- ing with coal and other valuable products. It is also followed by a canal for more than a hundred miles up. The route of the Wew York and Erie Railway is upon or near the banks of the north branch of the Susquehanna in southern New York, and occasionally across the Pennsylvania line for 50 miles, first touching the river near the Cascade Bridge, nearly 200 miles from New York, passing the cities of Binghamton and Owego, and finally los- ing sight of it just beyond Barton, 250 miles from the metropolis. 161 Northumberland.] PENxWSYLVANIA. [ERii Lebanon, 86 miles from Philadelphia and 26 miles east of Harrisburg, is pleasantly situated in a fertile limestone valley, and is a place of considerable manufacture. A branch road to the Corn- wall ore banks intersects the main line here. Muri-islisirg- (see Route I.) Con- nection is made at Harrisburg northward with the PldladelpMa and Erie Railroad, which affords the most direct route to Erie and the great lakes. ROUTE III. PniLADELPHIA TO WILLIAMSPOBT, ERIE, AND THE OIL REGIONS. ( Yia PJiiladelpMa and Erie Railway.) Stations. — Sunbury, 163 miles from Philadelphia; Catawissa Junction, 175; Milton, 176; Williamsport, 203; Lock Haven, 228 ; Renovo, 255 ; St. Mary's, 323 ; Sheffield, 371 ; Warren, 385 ; Corry, 413; Erie, 451. Sunbunj is a pleasantly located town on the east bank of the Susquehanna, 56 miles north of Harrisburg. (See Susque- hanna.) IVortliMnaljerlaaail. — The west branch of the Susquehanna unites two miles above Sunbury with the main or north arm ; and the village, the pleasant- est of all the region round, is built upon the point formed by the confluence of the two waters. The quiet, cultivated air of Northumberland, and its excellent hotel {Ceni7-al) w'lW attract the not over-hurried traveller. A pleasant detour may be made from this point over the Lackawamia and Bloomshurg Railway to the Wyoming valley. (See Wilkesbarre.) Cata-^vissa is on this line, 20 miles from Northumberland. It is connected also by railway with the coal district of Mauch Chunk.. The scenery of this vicin- ity is of great variety and beauty. From the hill-tops — for Catawissa is encom- passed by picturesque hills — remarkable pictures of the winding of the river, and its ever-present companion, the canal, are to be seen ; now at the base of grand mural precipices, and anon through little verdant intervales. The Susquehanna is a well-kept house. "^VilliaiMspoi-t (203 miles) is the principal town upon the west branch of the Susquehanna River. It is the capital of Lycoming County, and contains some fine buildings, h is a pleasant place, dehghtfully situated, and much in vogue as a summer re- sort. The west branch canal passes here; and here, too, the railway routes from Philadelphia and from Niagara Falls (yia Elmira, N. Y.) meet. The river land- scape betweenWilliamsport and Northum- berland presents in its long extent many charming passages. Population, 11,000. Lock Haven, the capital of Clinton County, is at the mouth of Bald Eagle Creek, 121 miles north of Harrisburg. Irvinelon (300 miles). Branch road, \ via Tionesta and Oleopolis to Oil City, the centre of the great oil region of Pennsylvania. Corry (413 miles from Philadelphia, and 37 miles southeast of Erie) is im- < portant to the traveller mainly as being < the point of departure on this line for the oil region. Meadville is distant 38 miles. (See Atlantic and Great Western Rail- road.) Titnsville is 27 miles, and Shaf- fer, the terminus of the Oil Creek Rail- wai/, 34 miles distant. Beyond Titusville connection is made with the Farmers' Railroad to Petroleum Centre and Oil City, the terminus of the Franklin branch of the Atlantic and Great Western Rail- way. It has a population of 4,000, and is growing rapidly. Hotel, th e Empire House. Erie, the northern terminus of the route from Philadelphia, is advantageous- ly situated on Lake Erie, 451 miles from Philadelphia, and 90 miles southwest of Buffalo. The harbor, one of the best on the lake, is 3|^ miles long and over one mile wide. Presque Isle, opposite the town, is four miles long and one mile wide. The city contains a Coiirt-House, a good hotel, 1, and several handsome church edifices. The Erie and Pittsburg Raihvay connects :, it with Pittsburg, 148 miles. It was in- corporated in 1805. Population, 11,500. 102 Oil Creek.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Petkolkdm. THE OIL BEQIOK The oil region of Pennsylvania is well worthy a visit from the traveller, illus- trating as it does one of the most impor- tant as well as unique industrial features of the Keystone State. The most cele- brated oil-wells, as yet discovered and opei'ated on the American continent, are located in the western part of Pennsyl- vania, principally in Venango, Crawford, and Warren Counties. The wells next of note are found in Western Virginia and Eastern Ohio ; while others yet more re- I cently opened in the States of New Toi'k, i Kentucky, Tennesse?, and Michigan, and in Upper Canada, are now attracting at- tention. OiWreel; which has become celebrated as the site of the richest oil-producing region of the continent at the present day, is a tortuoiis mountain-stream, taking its rise in the northern part of the State of Pennsylvania, near the south line of Erie County, and, with its tributaries, waters Crawford and Warren Counties, and after a course of about thirty miles through these counties, empties into the Alle- ;hany River, seven miles above the town of Franklin. The valley through which Oil Creek takes its course is narrow, and flanked on each side by high and rugged hills, on the top of which are broad fields of excellent farming land. The scenery on Oil Creek at one time, no doubt, was quite picturesque ; but now the bottom- lands are dotted with tall derricks, wood- en engine-houses, and iron smoke-stacks, tout of wh'ch columns of black smoke iroll upward to the clouds. The pines and hemlock are cleared from the moun- ]tain-sides, and all is busy life. Petroleum, under the name of " Seneca pil " — so called from the tribe of Indians of that name who once inhabited the .country — became early of great im.por- tance to the settlers, both as a medicine and for burning and lubricating pur- poses. The greater portion of the oil M'as obtained fi-om two natural springs. One lof these was in the immediate neighbor- ■[hood of Titusville, on the lands now bwned by the " Watson Petroleum Com- Ipany " of New York, on the spot where |qow stands the old " Drake Well." The Jtlier spring was on the farm of Hamilton McClintock, within four miles of the mouth of Oil Creek. During the year 1853, Dr. F. B. Brewer, of the firm of Brewer, Watson, & Co., conceived the idea ot collecting surface-oil by means of absorb- ing it in blankets, and wringing the oil out. Great quantities were collected in this novel manner, and used for burning purposes in the lumber-mills of the Oil Creek region. The a.\ produced from the oil springs became so necessary and useful as to suggest the formation of an oil company, in 1854, called the "Penn- sylvania Kock-Oil Company." This was the first oil company ever formed. This was prior to the sinking of any well, or before such a thing was suggested. Al- though Professor Sillinnan, of New Haven, had in 1854 analyzed the rock-oil, and pronoimced upon its properties, no fur- ther developments of any importance took place until the winter of 1857, when Colonel E. L. Drake, of Connecticut, arrived at Titusville. He was the first man who attempted to bore for oil. He was obliged to go 50 miles to a machine- shop every- time his tools needed repair- ing ; but after many delays and accidents, on the 29th day of August, 1859, at the depth of 69 feet 6 inches, he struck a vein of oil, from which he afterward pumped at the rate of 85 to 40 barrels per day. This is now known as the "Drake Well." It was the first well ever sunk for oil, and yielded the first petroleum ever obtained by boring. One experiment followed another in rapid suc- cession, until the different farms on Oil Creek became centres for oil operations. The Barnsdell, Mead, Rouse, and Crosley wells were opened in 1860. In 1861 nu- merous wells were sunk in the since fa- mous localities known as the "Mclll- heny," "McClintock," " Tarr," and " Buchanan " farms. The Empire and the Sherman Wells were ojiened in 1862, and the Delameter Well in the following year. Perhaps the only adequate idea of the extent of the oil operations in the Venango County region is to be obtained from the amount produced and shipped thence. The exports from the oil region have been as follows: In 1861,27,812 barrels; in 1862, 168,000 barrels ; 1863, 706,267 barrels ; 1864,776,205 barrels; and in 1865, from January 1st to Novem- 163 Meadtille.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Oil CiTv. bei- 11th, 543,019 barrels, or a total of nearly 2,250,000 barrels in five years. Three-fourths of this large yield have been transported over the line of the Atlantic and Great Western Mailwai/, which was completed into the oil region in 1863. Routes. — The railway routes leading from the Atlantic seaboard to the oil re- gion are the Fldladelphia and Erie Rail- way, from Philadelphia via Harrisburg to Corry (413 miles), and the Atlantic and Great Western Railway, from New York via Salamanca (414 miles) to Corry (475 miles) and Meadville (517 miles). From Cincinnati the route is by the Atlantic and Great Western to the same points ; and from Pittsburg a road is now partial- ly completed, which will greatly shorten the distance from that city. Meadville, on the Atlantic and Great Western Railway, 103 miles west of Salamanca, and 517 miles from New York, is a flourishing city, and the centre of a large trade with the oil region. It is one of the oldest towns west of the AUeghanies. It lies on the west bank of French Creek, at one time called Venango River. It is the seat of Alleghany Col- lege, founded in 1816, and of the Western Theological Seminary, founded in 1844. Among the more .prominent edifices are several churches, a State arsenal, and an academy. The FranTcUn and Oil City Branch road to Reno and Oil City, 36 miles, comes in here. The McHenry House is the leading hotel, and is well kept. From Meadville, where close connec- tions are made with the through express trains on the main line, passengers to the oil region will reach Franklin in an hour and a half. The road lies down the east bank of French Creek. I'^E'SiiiSilin. (28 niiles), the county seat of Venango County, occupies the site of Fort Fraiiklin, at the confluence of French Creek with the Alleghany River. The town was laid out in 1795, and is substantially built on "high land. Popu- lation nearly 6,000. The Exchange is the principal hotel. ^L^n.& (33 miles), on the Alleghany River, has obtained great prominence in connection with the oil business of this region. Here large quantities of oil are received, and shipped by river and rail. The view of the river at this point pre- 164 sents a characteristic phase of life in the oil region. The trains usually stop long enough to aiford a good view of the town and river from the train. ©11 City (36 miles), the centre and chief city of the oil region, is on the Al- leghany River, at the terminus of the Franklin branch of the Atlantic and Great Western Raihca;/, 56 miles from Warren,' 3n the Philadelphia and Erie Railway. Oil Creek, which here enters the Allegha- ny, and is spanned by a bridge, will af- ford the visitor, in a few short rambles, perhaps the best opportunity of witnessing the varied operations of obtaining, refin- ing, barrelling, shipping, and generally manipulating the precious petroleum. It is not perhaps the most attractive place to pursue his researches — being a sort of epitomized edition of Virginia City, Pitts- burg, and New Bedford in one volume — but he must not be discouraged at the smoky, oily aspect and odor of every thing and everybody about him, but start on his search for the curious with the ardor of a true petroleumite, and with a stomach well fortified from the best hotel the " city " affords (the Jones House), and he will see much to interest, instruct, and may be to astonish him. Oil Creek, so called, is as old as the In- dian traditions extend, and dei'ives its name from a spring from which large quantities of bituminous oil were obtained — the Indians valuing it highly. It is now claimed that whea, by treaty, the Seneca nation sold the western part of the State, they made a reservation around this spring of one mile square. For about a mile above Oil City, on the light- hand side of the stream, the bank rises in an abrupt bluff, at the foot of which a very substantial road has been construct- ed. The city is built on the flats that run along the base of the high bluffs, and has but one street. Directly across the creek, on Cottage Ilill, have been erectcia,. — The western terminus of the Philadelphia and Columbia Rail- way is on the left bank of the Susque- hanna, 28 miles below Harrisburg and 1 2 miles west of Lancaster. A part of the town occupies the slope of a hill, which rises gently from the river, and the business part of the town lies along the level bank of the river. The scenery from the hills in the vicinity is highly pleasing. The broad river, studded with numerous islands and rocks, crossed by a long and splendid bridge, and bounded on evei-y side by lofty hills, makes a bril- liant display. A fine bridge, more than a mile in length, crosses the Susquehanna to Wrightsville. Population, 6,000. Yoi-li is teii miles southwest of the Susquehanna, upon the Codorus Creek, 168 28 miles south-southeast of Harrisburg, 57 miles from Baltimore by the Northern and Central Railway, and 92 from Phila- delphia. With all these cities, and witlj yet other points, it is connected by rail- way. The Northern Central Roitioay unites at York with the Wiyhfsville, York and Columbia Railway. The Con- tinental Congress met here in 1777, dur- ing the occupation of Philadelphia by the British troops. The Court-House is an imposing granite edifice, built in 1842, at a cost of $150,000. The National Hotel has good accommodation for visitors. Population, 12,000. Carlisle is a beautiful and interest- ing town, with a population of 7,000, on the line of the Cumberland Vcdley Rail- way, 18 miles below Harrisburg and 125 miles west of Philadelphia. It lies in the limestone valley country, between the Kittatinny and the South Mountains.. Dickinson College (Methodist), which is located in Carlisle, is one of the most venerable and esteemed institutions in Pennsylvania. It was founded in 1783. Carlisle is connected by the Cumberland Valley road with Harrisburg, on the one hand, and with Chambersburg and Hagers- town, in Maryland, on the other. General Washington's headquarters were here in 1794, at the time of the Whiskey Eebel- lion. Some years before. Major Andre was a prisoner of war in Carlisle. It was shelled by the rebels during their inva- sion of the State (July, 1863). Carlisle /Sp7-ings, four miles north of the town, is a place of pleasant summer resort. The Sfeela^^-ai-e "M^atei* &»p. Hotel, — Killcdinny House. The bold passage of the Delaware Eiver, called the Water Gap, is easily and speedily reached from the cities and vicinage of New York and Philadelphia, and a pleasanter excursion for a day or two cannot be well made. The Dela- ware River rises on the western decliv- ity of the Kaatskill mountains, in two streams, which meet at the village of Hancock, a station on the New York and Ej-ie Railroad. At Port Jervis (see Erie Railroad), after journeying 70 miles, it meets the Kittatinny or Shawangunk Mountain, and next breaks through the bold ridge at the Water Gap. At this great pass the clifls rise CRANTON.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Gettysbukg. erpendicularly from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, ,nd the river rushes through the grand orge in magnificent stj'le. It afterward ;rosses the South Mountain, not far be- |,)w Easton (from which point the Gap is generally approached) ; next falls over jhc primitive ledge at Trenton, N. J. ; 'rows by and by into a large navigable ijver, skirts the wharves of the city of piiladelphia, and is lost 100 miles below, ih the Delaware Bay. The whole length jjf this fine river, from the mountains to jhe bay, is 300 miles. (See Rivers, p. 1.39.) The Highland Dell House is a i|leasant summer resort, two miles from ftroudsburg Station, and three from the ¥ater Gap. Sci*a,ittoiiL. — Hotel, Wyoming. — Icranton is an important manufacturing nd commercial town on the south bank f the Lackav/anna lliver. It is the point f junction between the Lackawanna and 3loomsburgf and Delaware, Dackawanna, nd Western Railivays, which afford direct ommunication with points east and west. Population, 15,000. Kingston, 1*7 miles west, is the point |f departure for Wilkesbarre and the tVyomiug valley. 1 Claaia.'bea-s'feiirg' is pleasantly ituated on the Cumherland Valley Rail- way, 52 miles south of Harrisburg, sur- Jounded by a highly cultivated country, jorming part of the limestone valley yhich extends along the south base of the Slue Mountain. Conechocheague Creek ,lows through the town. It reaches from J'hiladelphia, via Harrisburg, or from fJaltimore by the Baltimore and Ohio Kaihvay to Frederick ; thence by stage to (lagerstown. Hotel, Broivn''s. \ CJettystmrg-^ the county town of ^dams County, and the western terminus i)f the Gettijshurg Railway, will well re- pay a visit from the traveller in this sec- tion of the State. It is pleasantly situ- ited on a gently rolling and fertile plain, lUTOunded by hills, from which exten- ive views of the village and adjacent •iiimtry are obtained. It is 69 miles lom Harrisburg, and '76 from Baltimore, •hi Hanover Junction, on the Northern ['intral Railway, the only present route ly which to reach the place. It is cached frgm New York in one day by he Jersey Central Railway to Eeadiug, and thence, via Columbia and York. A more direct route than the present, via Hanover Junction, is much needed, and steps are taken to secure this object. The principal hotel is the Eagle, which has accommodation for about 80 guests, The Lutheran TJieological Seminary. founded in 1826, and the Pennsylvania College, are among the most prominent institutions of the place. The former has a fine library, and is well worthy a visit. Gettysburg, however, is endowed with an interest growing out of the late war, far transcending any which it pos- sessed in its own right, and visitors will not care to tarry long after they have visited the memorable battle-field, on and around which was fought one of the most bloody and decisive conflicts of that " strange, eventful history," known as the Great Rebellion, and con- summated in the restoration of the Union. The battle was fought on the 1st, 2d, and 3d of July,1863, between the Union forces, under General Meade, and the Confeder- ate army, under General Lee, in which the latter was vanquished, witla a loss in killed, wounded, and prisoners, of 23,000 men. A day, well employed, will suffice to show the stranger, at Gettysburg, the battle-field and cemetery, while a second and third may be spent in visiting the springs and the several objects of interest in and round the village. The best ap- proach to the battle-field is that by the Baltimore turnpike, which leads south- wardly from the village directly to Ceme- tery Hill, distant half a mile from the Eagle Hotel. Cemetery Hill forms the central and most striking feature at Gettysburg. Here General Howard estab- lished his headquarters ; upon this point the heaviest fire of the enemy was con- centrated ; and here is most appropriately located the National Cemetery, where are interred a large number of the Union soldiers who fell during the engagement. (See National Cemetery.) It was known as Cemetery Hill long before the battle, the eastern slope of it having been enclos- ed and used as the village burying-ground. This should also be visited by the travel- ler. The view from the crest of the hill 13 open and extended, affording every facil- 169 Gettysburg.] PENNSYLVANIA. [GETTYSBDRa, ity, with the aid of the accompanying map, for following the movements of the respective armies. As the inspection of the cemeteries must be made on foot, the visitor will save time and labor by fol- lowing the route here indicated. The Village Cemetery, sometimes called the Citizens' Cemetery, in contradistinction to the National or Soldiers' Cemetery, which adjoins it, is entered through a lofty arched gateway from the Baltimore road. Following the main avenue southward, a short walk brings the visitor to a circular lot, well-nigh covered with stones, which are to be used in the construction of a vault. They present an aspect at once striking and suggestive. They cover the spot selected by General Howard on the morning of the engagement as his head- quarters, and here the heaviest fire of the rebel batteries, numbering nearly two hundred guns, was concentrated. With wise and kindly forethought, that officer had ordered the monuments and tomb- stones which surround the spot to be taken down, so that while some wei'e un- avoidably injured, comparatively few were destroyed. The marble monument erected to General Gettys, the founder and early proprietor of Gettysburg, which occupies a prominent position on the right of the avenue between the entrance and this lot, is worthy of no- tice. Standing on Cemetery Hill, the vis- itor has the key to the position of the Union forces during those eventful " three days of July." Cemetery Hill proper is the termination of the ridge which runs southward between the roads leading respectively to Taneytown and Em- metsburg. The view from this hill is exten- sive and varied. Westward the hoi'izon is bounded by the long range of the" South Mountain," beyond which lie Chambers- burg and Hagerstown. In the same direc- tion, a little to the right, and rather more than a mile distant, is the Semi- nary, near which began the battle of the 1st, which terminated so disastrously to Reynolds's corps. From Seminary Ridge General Lee opened a furious bombard- ment of the Union position on Cemetery Hill. The cemetery is enclosed with a neat railing. On the gateway are in- scribed the names (eighteen in number) of the States represented by those buried 1*70 within. The 'monument, the foundation of which was laid November 19, 1863, will be completed July 4, 1868. The de- signer and contractor is James G. Bat- terson, of Hartford, Conn., and the cost will be $47,000. It will be 60 feet high, and crowned with a statue of Liberty. At the base of the pedestal ai'e four but- tresses, surmounted with allegorical stat- ues, representing War, History, Peace, and Plenty. The monument occupies the crown of the hill, and around it, in semi- circular slopes, are ranged the dead, each State being represented by a separate section. The divisions between the States are marked by alleys and pathways, radiating from the monument to the outer circle, the coffin-rows being divided by continuous granite blocks about six inches high, upon which are inscribed the name and regiment of each sol- dier, as far as ascertained. Between Emmettsburg pike and Cemetery Hill lies the scene of Pickett's bloody and disastrous charge, in which 18,000 men are estimated to have been engaged. Following Cemetery Ridge, and keeping before him Round Top Mountain, says the historian of the Army of the Poto- mac, a short walk will bring the visitor to one of the most interesting spots on this famous battle-field. "This is a bunch of wood to which a few — ^it may be a score or two — of the boldest and bravest that led the van of Pickett's charging column, on the 2d July, at- tained. Thus far the swelling surge ofj- invasion threw its spray, dashing itself to pieces on the rocky bulwark of northern valor. Let us call this the high-water mark of the rebellion." Seminary Ridge, College Hill, Chip's Hill, Round Top, and Little Round Top, are generally visited ; their exact topography will readily be as- certained by reference to the accompany- ing map. WilloHghhy Run, where General Buford's cavalry held in check the rebel column under Hill for nearly two hours, is pointed out. A mineral spring, the property of an association recently (1866) chartered, under the style of the " Lithea Spring Association,''^ and containing valuable medicinal qualities, forms one of the novel and attrac- tive features of the place. The water is said to resemble that of the celebrated % Ibedford Springs.] PENNSYLVANIA. [Cresson Springs. {Vichy Spring in Germany. It is situated fabout two miles west of the town. Bedibi-d Spring"®, located one mile from the village of Bedford, on the Uaystown branch of the Juniata, is an attractive place for invalid summer resort. 'The water contains carbonic acid, sul- ■phate of magnesia, sulphate of lime, and muriate of soda. Excellent hotel accom- modation for visitors. Route, via Huntingdon, on the Penn- mjlvania Central Railway ; thence by the Huntingdon and Broad Top road to Mount Dallas, 44 miles ; thence by stage, six miles. Cresson. Spring's, on the sum- mit of the Alleghanies, 15 miles west of Altoona, is a pleasant summer resort. The village is 3,000 feet above sea-level, and is much esteemed by invalids for the purity of its air. The hotels and cot- tages have accommodation for upward of 2,000 persons. The Mountain House is well kept. Ill Ohio.] OHIO. [OhiI! OHIO Ohio is one of the largest and most important of the great V/estern States, and the third in the Republic in popu- lation and wealth. It extends over an area of 200 miles in length and 195 miles in breadth. On its northern limits are Michigan and Lake Erie ; Pennsyl- vania and Virginia encompass it east- wardly ; the waters of the Ohio separate it from Kentucky on the south, and west- ward lies the State of Indiana. The central portions of Ohio are, for the most part, level lands, with here and there, more especially toward the north, tracts of marsh. In the northwest there is an extensive stretch of very fertile country, called the Black Swamp, much of which is yet covered with forest. Some prairies are seen in these middle and northern parts of the Stat^. A ridge of high land, north of the middle of the State, separates the rivers flowing north into Lake Erie from those running south into the Ohio River. A second ridge in- terrupts the Ohio slope near the middle of the State, and thence all the rest of the way southward the country is broken and hilly, terminating often upon the waters of the Ohio in abrupt and lofty banks. The great bituminous coal-veins of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Kentucky, extend into Ohio, supplying her well with this valuable product. Of iron also she possesses ample stores. The history of Ohio is of very recent date. The State is literally a product of the nineteenth century, having been formed from the territory northwest of the Ohio in 1802. The first settlements within the State were made (April 7, 1*788) by New England emigrants at Marietta. Near that place is a remark- able mound 30 feet high, which, with a few similar earthworks in the neighbor- 172 hood of Circlerille, constitute almost the only natural objects of interest in these regions. The State is divided into eighty-eight counties, and has a population of 2,500- 000. Columbus is the State capital, and Cincinnati the chief commercial city. Cleveland, Dayton, Toledo, Zanesville, Sandusky, and Hamilton are thriving commercial towns. In Warren County is Fort Ancient, which has about four miles of embankment, from 18 to 20 feet high. In Ross County are Clark's Works, 2,800 feet long and 1,800 broad, enclosing some smaller works and mounds. A subter- ranean lake is supposed to exist at Bryan, in Wilhams County, as water, when bored for, is found at a depth of 40 or 50 feet at all times and in great abun- dance, and fish, too, sometimes coming up with it. Ohio owes her wonderful prosperity — her almost marvellous growth, in the period of 60 years, from a wild forest tract to the proud rank she now holds among the greatest of the great American States — mainly to the capabilities of her rich soil and generous climate. Nearly all her vast territory is available for agri- cultural uses. In the amount of her prod- ucts of wool and of Indian corn she has no peer in all the land, while she is ex- ceeded by only one other State in her growth of wheat, barley, cheese, and live-stock • by only two States in the value of her orchards, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, grasses, hay, maple sugar, and butter. Among other articles which she yields •abundantly are hops, wine, hemp, silk, honey, beeswax, molasses (sorghum), sweet potatoes, and a great variety of fruits. Her vines, which are : known and esteemed everywhere, have < yielded, in the vicinity of Cincinnati alone, ! tllTERS.] OHIO. pair a million of gallons of wine in a year. Grrapes are now extensively cultivated on Kelly's Island and the lake region. In |ihe forests and woodlands are found the jjak, the sugar and other maples, the iiickory, the sycamore, poplar, ash, and lieech — the pawpaw, the buckeye (Ohio [s called the Buckeye State), "the dog- j,vood, and many other trees. K i V e V Se — The Ohio River forms best of the eastern and all of the southern loundary of the State, and is the recipient f the other principal streams of the re- ion. (See Ohio River.) It is navigated j)y passenger packets during the fall, jvinter, and spring months as high as Pittsburg. 1 Tlie Miisliimg-ioia ISivei* is formed by the Tuscarawas and the Wal- onding, which rise in the upper part of -he State and meet at Coshocton. From his point the course of the Muskingum nearly southeast, 110 miles to the bio, at Marietta. Steamboats navigate jhis river as far as Dresden, 95 miles irom its mouth. 'JTlic Scioto Mives* receives its pain affluent at Columbus, and Sows Ihence nearly south to the Ohio at Ports- outh. Its passage is about 200 miles, Ihrough a fertile valley region. The oute of the Ohio and Erie Canal is near |he Scioto, for a distance of more than miles. Xlte Miami Miver flows 150 iles from the northwest central part of 'he State, past Troy, Dayton, and Hamil- on, to the Ohio, 20 miles below Cincin- i:iti. It is a rapid and picturesque stream, ra versing a very populous and productive [■alley tract. Its course is followed for I'O miles by the Miami Canal. In the upper part of Ohio are the ^andusky, the Huron, the Cuyahoga, and )tlier smaller rivers, which find their way Lake Erie. This lake forms about 150 alios of the north and northwestern boundary of the State. Ohio is one of the most desirable 'tales of the Union to visit and travel in, he means of communication being nu- !eious and expeditious. Lines of railway irerge from Cinciunati and other large ouimercial centres in every direction nd to every important point in the ''tate. [Cincinnati. CINCINK-ATI, Hotels : The Burnet House is very cen- trally and pleasantly located on Third and Vine Streets ; the Spencer House, on Broad- way, near the Landing ; Broadway House, corner of Second Street and Broadway, near the river and Landing ; Walnut Street House, Walnut Street, between Sixth and Seventh Streets. The St. Nicholas, at the corner of Fourth and Race Streets, has one of the best-ordered restaurants in the West. Routes. — From New York, by the Erie Railway to Salamanca, and thence by the Atlantic and Great Western Railway, via Mansfield. Total distance from New York, 862 miles. From Philadelphia. — By Pennsylvania Railroad, 355 miles, to Pittsburg, Pa., and thence 313 miles, via Columbus, to Cincinnati. Total, 668 miles. From Baltimore. — Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, S'Zl) miles, to Wheeling, Va. ; Central Ohio, from Belfaire, via Zanes- ville, to Columbus,. 13*7 miles; Little Miami Railroad, 120 miles, to Cincinnati. Total, 636 miles. From St. Louis. — By Ohio and Missis- sippi Railway, 340 miles. From New Orleans. — Mississippi and Ohio River steamers, or by railway, via Memphis, Louisville, Lexington, etc. "The Queen City of the West," as Cincinnati has not inappropriately been called, is the largest city of the West, and the fifth in extent and importance in the Union, Its central position on the Ohio River has made it a recei'ing and distributing depot for the wide and rich country tributary to those great waters. The city is delightfully situated in a valley of three miles' extent, enclosed by a well-defined cordon of hills, reach- ing, by gentle ascent, an elevation above the river of some 400 feet. These high points command imposing views of the city and its surroundings, far and near. The chief portion of Cincinnati lies upon two plateaus or terraces, the first 50 feet above low-water mark, and the sec- ond 108 feet. The upper plain slopes grad- ually for a mile to the foot of Mount Au- burn — a range of limestone hills, charm- ingly embellished with villas and vine- yards. The city occupies the river shore Cincinnati.] OHIO. [Cincinnati for more than three miles, and its area is rapidly extending in every direction. The central and commercial quarter is well and compactly built. The streets are mostly of good width, well paved and well lighted. It is divided into 18 wards. The principal thoroughfares are Broad- way, Main, Pearl, and Fourth Streets. Main Street, the great business highway, 6^ miles long, traverses the city from the Steamboat Landing — an open area of 10 acres, with 1,000 feet front — and is intersected at right angles by 14 lead- ing streets, named First, Second, Third, Fourth, and so on. Pearl Street, parallel with the river, is the great jobbing mart. Fourth Street is the " Fifth Avenue " of the town, a long, wide, elegant and fash- ionable promenade upon the crown of the First Terrace, following the course of the river, and overlooking its waters and windings. Fifth Street contains the mar- kets, and displays a scene of busy life through an extent of three or four miles. The present population of Cincinnati is 225,000, and, adding the rapidly increas- ing suburban population of Walnut Hills, Clifton, Cumminsville, and Mount Au- burn, it will exceed 250,000. Public Buildings. — The Cincinnati Observatory has a beautiful situation upon Mount Adams, in the eastern part of the city. It commands an extensive view of the Ohio and of the surrounding country. It can be distinctly seen by the traveller from the steamboat, in passing up or down the river. It occupies four acres of land, the gift of the late Mr. Nicholas Longworth. It was built by the volun- tary contributions of the citizens, who gave $25 each toward the erection of the building and the purchase of appropriate instruments. Much, however, is due to the energy and perseverance of Professor Mitchel, to whose unceasing labors they are principally indebted for the result. The corner-stone was laid November 9, 1843, by the late John Quincy Adams, who called the edifice a " light-house of the skies." The telescope, made by Mentz & Mahler, of Munich, is of fine finish, ac- curacy, and power. Its cost was $10,000. The Masonic Hall (Temple) stands on the northwest corner of Walnut and Third Streets. It is an elegant structure, 200 feet front and 80 feet high, newly IH erected from designs by Hamilton and McLaughlin, at a cost of $30,000. Odd- Fellows' Hall is opposite. The Cincinnati College, a commodious building, is situated in Walnut Street, be- tween Fourth and Fifth Streets. It is of the Grecian Doric order, three stories high, exclusive of an attic, and 140 feet front, 100 deep, and 60 in height. The Exchange and Reading-room is 59 feet by 45 feet, and one of the finest in the Uni- ted States. The Mercantile Library As- sociation occupies rooms in the same building as the Exchange, and on the same floor. It has 2,000 members, and 23,000 volumes, besides a very large supply of American and foreign news- papers, periodicals, etc. The United Stcdes building for the accommodation of the Post-office, Custom-House, and the United States Courts, is one of the most symmetrical edifices in the city, being a fine specimen of Corinthian architec- ture. It occupies a central locale on the southwest corner of Vine and Fourth Streets. The Lunatic Asylum is a three- story edifice of brick, located in the northwest part of the city. It has accom- modation for 450 inmates. The Ohio Medical College is located in Sixth Street, between Vine and Pace ; it contains a large lecture-room, library, etc., the lat- ter having several thousand well-selected standard works, purchased by the State. The cabinet belonging to the anatomical department is amply furnished. The City Hall is in Plum Street, be- tween Eighth and Ninth Streets. The Court-House, on Main Street, op- posite Court, is a spacious edifice, of white limestone, resembling marble, erected at a cost of half a million dol- lars. Mozart Hall is a massive stone building, with an auditorium capable of seating 3,000 persons. The Suspension Bridge, across the Ohio River, is a magnificent structure. This enterprise was projected as early as 1848, and a charter was granted some years ago by the Legislatures of Kentucky and Ohio. It was not, how- ever, until a comparatively recent date that subscriptions of stock could be se- cured to make a beginning. Some enter- prising men having procured (1855) $350,000, which has, during the progress !lNCINNATI.] OHIO. [Cincinnati. of the work, been increased to $Y00,000, the foundations were laid September 1, 1856, and it will be completed during 186Y. The entire cost of the bridge will exceed one and a half million dollars. The progress of the work is very interest- ing. The towers, the foundations of which are laid 86 by 52 feet at the base, are 230 feet high, and 1,05*7 feet apart. The babies are anchored 300 feet back on each side of the river, whence, passing over the tops of the towers, they sustain the whole weight of the bridge. The en- tire length of the bridge will be 2,252 feet. The elevation of the floor at the middle, above low-water mark, is 100 feet. The great flood of 1832 — the highest on rec- |ord — rose 62 feet above low water ; and ,king allowance even for this, there will remain 38 feet. The highest grade of ascent at either end is 5 feet in 100 feet, and the strength of the bridge will be equal to that of any similar structure the world. Opened to pedestrians, December 1, 1866. Churches, etc. — Among the church ^difices, of which there are 110 within jthe city, the CatJiedral of St. Peter is the most prominent and best worthy of a yisit. It is situated on Plum Street, cor- nier of Eighth, and is devoted to the ser- vices of the Roman Catholic Church. The jbuilding is 200 feet long by 80 broad, and '60 feet high, with a steeple of 221 feet. The roof is principally supported upon 18 freestone pillars, formed of fluted 'shafts, with Corinthian tops, three and a half feet in diameter, and 85 feet in height. The ceiling is of stucco-work, of a rich and exjiensive character. The roof is composed of iron plates, whose seams are coated with a composition of coal-t-ar and sand, which renders it im- pervious to rain. The building cost '$90,000, and the ground |24,000. At the west end of the church is an altar of the purest Carrara marble, made by Chiappri, of Genoa ; it is embellished with a centre- piece, enriched with rays, around which wreaths and flowers are beautifully carved. The organ has 2, '700 pipes and 44 stops. One of the pipes is 33 feet long, and weighs 400 pounds. It cost $5,250. Sev- eral paintings occupy the walls, among which the St. Peter, by Murillo, presented to Bishop Fenwick by Cardinal Fesch, uncle of Napoleon, is much admired. The Episcopal Church, corner of Seventh and Plum Streets, and the First Presbyterian, corner of Main and Fourth Streets, are notable edifices. Theatres. — Pike's Opm-OrHouse, burnt March 22, 1866, is now being rebuilt on the old site, on Fourth Street, between Walnut and Vine, and running back to Baker. The National Iheatre, No. 92 Sycamore, between Third and Fourth Streets, is the oldest theatrical .establish- ment in the city. Wood^s Theatre, corner of Vine and Sixth Streets, is a newer place of resort. The German Theatre is at the northeast comer of Mercer and Vine Streets. Benevolent Institutions. — The chief benevolent institutions are the Lunatic Asylum^ the Commercial Hospital, four Orphan Asylums (viz., the Cincinnati., Elm, . corner of Thirteenth Street ; St. Peter''s, corner Third and Plum Streets ; St. Aloysius, Fourth Street; and West German Protestant, Mount Auburn), the Widoivs'' Home, Asylum for Indigent Fe- males, the House of Refuge, and the Hotel for hivalids, corner of Broadway and Franklin. The Longview Asylum, near Carthage Station, on the Hamilton and Bayton Raihvay, should be visited. It can be reached by omnibus from the cor- ner of Sixth and Main Streets. Educational Institutions, etc. — The educational institutions of the city ar< under the supervision of a board of trus- tees elected annually. They embrace 18 districts, two intermediate and two high schools, while private establish- ments of good grade are quite numerous. The St. Xavicr College, on Sycamore Street, between Sixth and Seventh Streets, has an extensive library, museum, and appara- tus. The La7ie Tlieological Seminary is named after the brothers Ebenezer and Andrew Lane, of Oxford, England. This institution went into operation in 1833. The library contains 10,000 volumes. Pairmount Theological Semi7iary is two miles northwest of the Court-Hoiise. The Wesleyan Female College, and the Wood- ward and Eclectic Aledical Colleges, the former founded by the late William Wood- ward, are among the most noteworthy. The Mount Auburn Young Ladies^ In" stitute is a flourishing institution. l^o Cincinnati.] OHIO. [Cincinnati. Libraries, ETC.-^Tbe public libraries of Cincinnati are nine in number, two of which are German. The Mercantile Librari/, in the College building, on Wal- nut Street, between Fourth and Fifth Streets, affords every opportunity for strangers desiring access to its shelves. It is open from eight o'clocli A. m. to ten p. M. The room adjoining the library is used by the students in the law depart- ment of the Cincinnati College. The Mechanics' Institute, on Vine and Sixth Streets, and the Horticultm'al Society, make annual exhibitions. Cemeteries. — There are ten cemeteries in and near the city. Of these, that lo- cated at Spring Grove is best worthy a visit. Spring Grove Cemetery, a rural " city" of the dead," is situated in the valley of Mill Creek, five miles northwest of the city. It was commenced in 1845. It con- tains 277 acres, laid out and adorned ■with exquisite and most appropriate taste. The original plan was drawn by Notman, of Philadelphia. The great feature of Spring Grove is the open- lot system, which has been adopted. Unsightly fences and railings nowhere offend the eye, and the entire absence of all superfluous ornamentation affords a marked and pleasing contrast to not a few of our largest and most frequented burying-grounds. The grounds are under the able superintendence of Mr. Adolph Strauch, florist and landscape gardener. Spring Grove contains some of the hand- somest monuments to be found in any rural cemetery in the country. Among the most conspicuous for size and beauty are the following: The Hoffner monu- ment consists of a Gothic shrine, executed in white marble, by Eule, from designs by Earnshaw. The statue within is by Fantoci, a Florentine sculptor, and is much admired. The Baum monument is of Quincy granite, 30 feet high. The vault of Jacob Strader is worthy of notice. It is built of red Connecticut sandstone, from designs by Batterson. The monu- ments to Peter Neff and Charles E. Wil- liams are generally pointed out. Among the greatest attractions of Spring Grove are undoubtedly its fine trees and shrubs, the number and vari- ety of American forest-trees contained in 176 the original site (Garrard farm) forming one of the strongest inducements opera- ting in its selection for the purposes of a cemetery. The list embraces the < names of nearly 200 specimens — native ' and foreign — now cultivated at Spring j Grove. The Lake is a beautiful sheet of ; water. The cemetery is reached by v street cars from the corner of Vine and 1 Fourth Streets in one hour. VICINITY. The neighborhood of Cincinnati i abounds with excellent macadamized i roads. They are fourteen in number, , with an aggregate length of 514 miles. After visiting Spring Grove and the Suspension Bridge, a drive on Madison and Grandin roads will show the visitor most of the attractive features of the vicinity. Leaving the noise and smoke of the city, and proceeding northward through Vine Street, a drive of half an hour will bring the traveller into the high terrace lands in the rear of the city, whence, unless (as is sometimes the case) the Smoke is impenetrable, a good view is obtained. Bald Head, which has long been a favorite vineyard property of the Long- worth family, is soon to be parcelled off into building-lots, the grape-crop having failed in the neighborhood for many years past. The residences of Mr. Harrison, Mr. Anderson, Captain P. W. Strader, and others on the Grandin road com- mand fine views up and down the Ohio River. That from the grounds of Mr. Harrison is specially worth seeing. EouTES. — There are twelve main lines of railway travel leading from Cincinnati, by means of one or other of which every point of importance or interest in the State can readily be reached. These are the Cin- cinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton Railway, extending 60 miles to Dayton, and thence by the Dayton and Michigan Railway to ■ Toledo ; the Hamilton and Eaton branch, from HamOton (25 miles), to Richmond (70 miles) ; the Atlantic and Great West- ern Railway, via Dayton (60 miles), and Corry (387), to Salamanca, New York (448 miles) ; the Chicago and Great Eastern Railway, via Richmond (70 miles), to Chicago (292 miles) ; the Ctwcm- •0. by lie id he ;et les of ch ed he 3,- la- CiN Hamilton.] OHIO. [Toledo. )nati and Zanesville Railway, via Morrow (36 miles), to Zanesville (168 miles); the Little Miami and Columbus and Xenia Railroad, to Columbus (120 miles), and thence by the Cleveland, Columbus, and Cincinnati Railroad to Cleveland (255 miles), and by the Central Ohio Railroad to Bellaire (257 miles) ; the Marietta and Cincinnati Railway, which leaves the Lil- lle Miami Railroad at Love! and (23 miles), and extends to Parkersburg, Va. 1 202 miles) ; the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, via Lawrenceburg (21 miles), and Vincennes, Ind. (191 miles), to St. Louis, Missouri, (340 miles) ; from Lawrenceburg the Indianapolis, ar.d Cin- \innati road extends to Indianapolis (110 'miles) ; the Ritts-burff, Columhus, and Cin- cinnati Railroad is an extension of the liittle Miami and Central Ohio roads, 'ia Steubenville (" Pan Handle "), and the Cleveland and Pittsburg Raihvay to Pitts- )urg (209 miles), in the adjoining State of Pennsylvania ; the Sandusky, Dayton, and lincinnati Railway, via Dayton (60 miles), Sandusky, on Lake Erie (154 miles); he Kentucky Central Railway, from Cov- ton, opposite Cincinnati, via Lexing- on (99 miles), to Nicholasville (112 piles). Travellers bound for Cairo, St. Louis, lemphis, Vicksburg, New Orleans, or joints on the upper or lower Mississippi uring the regular boating season, can roceed on the regular river packets run- ing between Cincinnati and those points. Leaving Cincinnati, on the Hamilton nd Dayton road, the train quickly asses Brighton and Spring Grove, seven liles (See Spring Grove Cemetery). ear Carthage, three miles beyond piing Grove, stands the imposing edifice f the Longview Asylum,, one of the pblest charities of the city. llumiltosi, 25 miles from Cincin- ati, on the road to Dayton, and 90 miles outh-southwest of Columbus, lies on both des of the Miami Eiver. It was chartei-ed L 1853. A canal, completed some years 5 Ince, furnishes a fine water-power. It the county seat of Butler County, id manufactures are extensively carried The county buildings, churches, and inks are among the most prominent lildings. It has direct railway com- unication with llichmond, Indiana, 45 I miles, by the Eaton and Hamilton Rail- way. Population, 8,500. l>aytOBi. — Hotel, Phillips House. Dayton, 60 miles from Cincinnati by the Cincinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton road, is now an important railway centre, roads diverging thence to every part of the State. (See Routes prom Cincinnati.) This is one of the most populous and en- terprising cities in Ohio. It is advanta- geously situated on the east bank of the great Miami Eiver, at the mouth of Mad River. The location is pleasant, and the streets, which are one hundred feet wide, are handsomely laid out. Exten- sive manufactures of various kinds are carried on. Many of the public edifices and private mansions are constructed of excellent limestone and marble, which abound in the vicinage. It was settled in 1796, and incorporated in 1805. The Court-House, erected at a cost of $170,- 000, is an imposing structure. Popula- tion, 33,000. fijijM-Sa, on the Dayton and Michigan Railway, 131 miles north of Cincinnati, is a thriving town on the Ottawa River, 98 miles northwest of Columbus. It has immediate railway communication with Chicago and Pittsburg by the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne, and Chicago Railway. Popu- lation, 4,500. Toled-O, — Hotels, Island House, American Hotel. Toledo is upon the Maumee Eiver, four miles from its entrance into Lake Michi- gan, and upon the great railway route from the Eastern States westward. It is 52 miles west of Sandusky City, 113 miles west of Cleveland, 255 miles from Dunkirk (Erie road), 714 miles from New York, and 243 miles east of Chicago, by the Michigan Southern route. Toledo is the terminus of the Wabash and Erie, and Miami and Erie Canals. Its history as a city dates only from 1836, but it is already one of the chief commercial sta- tions of the commerce of the great lakes. The public schools and church edifices are among its most noteworthy struc- tures. The grain-trade of the place is large and increasing, and some of the immense elevators will repay a visit from the stranger in the West. A street rail- way affords ready access to the several 177 Springfield. "I OHIO. [Newark. points of interest. Population, 23,000, and increasing rapidly. Direct commu- nication with Detroit, Michigan (64 miles), via Monroe. X e n. i a. , the capital of Greene County, is on the Little Miami, and Columbus mid Xenia Railway, 65 miles from Cincinnati, and 55 from Columbus. Springfield is 19 miles distant. It is handsomely laid out and lighted with gas. The Coiirt-House is an imposing edifice. Population, 6,500. Spa'imgiicl A, — Hotel, Willis House. Springfield, 84 miles above Cincinnati, on the direct route thence from Sandusky City on Lake Erie, and 130 miles below Sandusky, is an important railroad point. Dayton is 25 miles distant by rail. The Mad River and the Lagonda Creek meet at Springfield. These rapid waters afford abundant and fine mill-sites, which are all well employed by the manufactories of the town. This city is regarded as one of the most beautiful in the State, both in its position and construction. It was laid out in 1803. Wittenberg College (Lutheran) is a short distance from the city. The birthplace of the famous In- dian warrior, Tecumseh, is five miles west. Population in 1860, 7,150. ISelleloiitaisie is on the Sandus- ky, Dayton, and Cineimiati Railway, 98 miles south of the former, and \Vl miles north of the latter city. The Bellefontaine Railway intersects the main line here, and connects the town with Terre Haute and St. Louis. In the neighborhood are Bome fine springs, whence the name Fine ^Fountain, is derived. It was laid out in 1820, and has a population of nearly 3,000. TiiSEa, the capital of Seneca County, is on the Sandusky Kiver and Sandusky, Dayton, and Cincinnati Railway, 34 miles southwest of Sandusky, and 181 miles north of Cincinnati. It Avas laid out in 1821, and has a population of nearly 5,000. Coliamtoiis. — Hotel, Neil House. Routes. — From New York, Philadel- phia, and intermediate places, see Cin- ciNKATi for route thence to that city, as far as Columbus. From Cleveland (Lake Erie), southwest, 135 miles, by the Cleve- land, Columbus, and Cincinnati road ; from Cincinnati, by the same route, north- east, 120 miles; from Wheeling, Va. (see | 178 Bellaire), terminus of the Baltimore and Ohio road, 137 miles west, by the Oliio Centred; from Pittsburg, by the Pitts- burg, Columbus, and Cincinnati Railway, 209 miles. Columbus is near the centre of the State, upon the banks of the Scioto River, 90 miles from its debouchure on the Ohio. It was founded in 1812, and ^ in 1860 had a population of nearly 19,000. It is the centre of a rich country, which is daily adding to its extent and opu- lence. Some of the principal streets are 100 and 120 feet in width, and elegantly built. Many of the pubhc edifices are of a very striking character. The Capitol, which is constructed of limestone I'esem- bling marble, has a fa9ade of more than 300 teet, and an elevation, to the top of the rotunda, of 137 feet. It occupies the centre of the public sc(uare, and near the site of the old State-House, burnt January 1, 1852. An artesian well, 2,775 feet deep, has been sunk without reaching water. Among the other most noteworthy buildings are the Ohio LvMcdic Asylum, the Institution for the Blind, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, and the State Penitentiary. The last-named building is an imposing edifice of Ohio marble, covering, with the adjacent workshops, a square of six acres' extent. The Starling Medical Col- lege, endowed by the late Lyne Starling, was established here some years ago. It occupies a Gothic edifice of brick, capped with a whitish limestone. The present population of Columbus is esti- mated at 21,300. At Eastwood, in the immediate vicinity of the city, the traveller may have an opportunity of seeing the gardens of the Columbus Horticultural Society, and the grounds of the Franklin County Agricul- tural Society. Ne^vai-l*:, the capital of Licking County, is well situated at the forks of the Licking River, on the Ohio Canal, and at the junction of the Pittsburg, . Columbus, and Cincinnati and the San- dusky, Mansjidd, and Newark Rail- ways. It is 33 miles east of Columbus, 117 miles south of Sandusky, and 104 miles west of Wheeling, Va. Cannel coal and sandstone abound in the vicinity. It was laid out in 1801, and contains a pop- ulation of about 6,000. Bellaiue.] OHIO. [Clevkland, IScllaire is a small town on the Ohio River, opposite Wheeling, and the point of intersection between the BaUi- more and Ohio Railroad, and the Cen- tral Ohio, leading west and north. Ferry between Bellaire and AVheeling. Meals served on board the boat. Cl it in the lower half from Illinois. It is the largest tributary — from the north — of the Ohio, which it enters 140 miles from the Mississippi. In its passage it passes Huntington, Lafayette, Attica, Terre Haute, Covington, and other towns. It is navigable at high water for nearly 400 miles. The Wabash and Erie Canal follows its course from Huntington to Terre Haute, 180 miles. The White River, the principal tribu- tary of the Wabash, is formed by the two branches called the East and West Forks, which unite near Petersburg. It enters the Wabash, after a course of some 30 milei, nearly opposite Mount Carmel, lUinois. The' West Fork, the longest branch of the White River flows southwest nearly 300 miles through the centre of the State, passing among other places, Muncie, Anderson, Indian- apohs, Martinsville, and Bloomfield. On the East Fork are New Castle, Shelby- ville, Columbus, and Rockford. This fork is 200 miles in length. It is sometimes- called Blue River, until it reaches Sugar Creek, near Edinburg. The Mmimce, which is formed in In- diana by the St. Joseph's and the St. Mary's Rivers, passes into Ohio, where we have already met it. Besides these rivers, there are many other lesser waters. Lake Michigan washes the northern bor- / DI-4NAP0LIS.] INDIANA. [Indianapolis. ^r of the State for 40 miles. (See Lake iCHiGAN.) In this region there are also Qumber of small lakes and ponds. The most interesting natural curiosities the State (the peculiar landscape fea- res of the region, in prairie reaches id richly wooded river banks excepted) e the numerous and remarkable caves. The Wyandotte Cave, in Crawford Coun- , 11 miles from Corydon, is a wonder- 1 place, thought by many to equal in its arvels the famous Mammoth Cave of entucky. It has been explored for a imber of miles, and has been found bh in magnificent chambers and gal- des, in stalactites and other calcareous ncretions. Epsom Salts Cave is another notable ace. It is on the side of a hill, 400 feet height, on the Big Blue River. Among S wonders is a white column SO feet jh and 15 feet in diameter. It is regu- l-ly and beautifully fluted, and is sur- unded by other formations of the same aracter. Epsom salts, nitre, gypsum, d aluminous earth are found in the il cf the floor here. A curious object found within the cave in the shape of a fcture of an Indian rudely painted on the ck. Ancient Mounds and earthworks are attered over this State, as through lio. Railways. — In our peep at Ohio, we |,ve alluded to the wonderful network railroads, which so marks that State ^d its neighbors both east and west. lese iron roads link all parts of In- ana to each other, and unite it closely Ith every part of the Union from the At- Dtic to the Mississippi. The railways fre, as in Ohio on the one side, and inois on the other, are links of the great ^hways across the continent westward. dianapolis is the chief radiating point the railway system of this State, as incinnati is of Ohio and Chicago of II- iois, and thence the traveller has ready cess to every part of the Union. * Intlianapolls. — Hotels, Bates ouse and the American. The locale of Indianapolis is at once tractive and commanding. It is situ- oil on the west fork of White River, ar the mouth of Fall Creek, 115 miles iithwest of Cincinnati, and 200 south- southeast of Chicago. It was selected for the State capital in 1820, at which time the whole region was a dense forest. Five years later, the public of- fices were removed hither from Corydon, and now broad, beautiful, and popu- lous streets, lined with costly and elegant edifices and dwellings, are every year spreading farther and farther over the great plain which surrounds the young city. The Railway Station here is an edifice of magnificent proportions, with a front- age of 350 feet. Some of the very many clmrches are imposing structures. The State-House is a fine building, 180 feet in length, ornamented on each side with a grand Doric portico, and suimounted by a noble dome. ThQ ^Court-Hojcse, the Ma- sonic Hall, and the Bates Hotel will at- tract the particular notice of the visitor here. Washington Street is a handsome thoroughfare, 120 feet in width, and con- tains the principal public buildings. Indianapolis is the seat of the Indiana Medical College, founded in 1849 ; here, too, is the State Lunatic Asylum, estab- lished in 1848. Estimated population, 38,000. Trains run daily from the Union Depot over the following roads, viz. : Indianapolis and Madison JRailway, to Franklin (20 miles); Edinburg (30 miles); Columbus (41 miles); North Vernon (62 miles^ ; Madison (86 miles), on the Ohio River, where it connects with the mail steamers. Indianapolis, Peru, and Chicago Rail- way, to Kokomo (54 miles) ; Chicago and Great Eastern Railroad crossing (55 miles) ; Peru (75 miles), connecting with the Toledo, Wabash, and Western Rail- way. Indianapolis and Cincinnati Railway, to Shelbyville (26 miles) ; Greensburg (46 miles) ; Laurenceburg (90 lailes) ; Cincinnati (115 miles). Columhus and Indianapolis (Indiana Central) Railway, to Richmond (69 miles); Urbana (141 miles); Milford (100 miles); Columbus, Ohio (188 miles). Bcllefontaine Railway (Indianapolis, Pittsburg, and Cleveland), to Union (84 miles) ; Bcllefontaine (142 miles) ; Marion 182 miles) ; Crestline (207 miles) ; Cleve- land (282 miles). 2\rre HoMte and Indianaptolis Rail- 183 New Albany.] INDIANA. [Jeffeksonvjli way, to Greencastle (39 miles) ; Terre Haute CZS mDes), thence via St. Louis, Alton, and Terre Haute Railway, to Mat- toon (129 miles) ; Pana (168 miles) ; Al- ton (247 miles), and St. Louis (2*73 miles). Jeffersonville Line, to Columbus (41 miles) ; Seymour (59 miles) ; Jefl'erson- ville (108 miles), where connection is made with steamers on the Ohio for Louisville, Cincinnati, etc. Layfayette and LidianapoUs Railway, to Lebanon (28 miles) ; Colfax (43 miles) ; stage to Frankfort, Lafayette (64 miles). The above roads and their connections afford communication between Indianap- olis and every portion of the Union. Ne>v Allsasay. — Hotel, the L)e Paw House New Albany, the second city of the State, is upon the Ohio lliver, four miles below Louisville, and two miles below the Falls. From Cincinnati it is distant 136 miles. (See Cincinnati and Louis- ville for routes to those points.) It is the southern terminus of the Louisville, New Albany, and Chicago Railway, which extends 288 miles to Michigan City, on Lake Michigan, where it con- nects with the Michigan Central to Chica- go and the Northwest, and railways for Detroit, Niagara, and the Canadas, and with the Lake Shore line to New York, via Dunkirk and Buffalo. Steamboats ar- rive and depart continually for all land- ings on the Ohio and the Mississippi Elvers and their tributaries. The town was laid out in 1813. In 1860 its popu- lation numbered some 13,000, and it is now estimated at 18,700. The aspect of this city is very like that of most towns on the level prairie lands of the West, bi-oad, regular, v/ell-built, and agreeably shaded streets, with a general air of life and prosperity. It contains numerous fine church edifices and several good schools. Steamboat building is extensively carried on. The Collegiate LislUute and Theo- logical (Presbyterian) Seminary are flour- ishing institutions. Madisoia. — Hotel, Madison Hotel. Madison is upon the Ohio, 90 miles below Cincinnati ; 40 miles above Louis- ville ; and 86 miles southeast of Indian- apolis, by the Indiano.polis and Madison Railway, of which it is the southern ter- minus. From Cincinnati take the steam- 184 ers on the Ohio River, or the Ohio ami MississipjA Railway to Vernon, 73 niilr.~, and thence via Indianapolis and Madisui, Railway. The city is situated in a pleas- ant valley, of three miles' extent, shut in on the north by bold hills, 400 feet in height. It was first settled in 1808, ;iii(i now contains a population of neaily 15,000. Steamboats are extensively built, owned, and run here. •ffeHei'soiiville, the southern ter- minus of the Jeffersonville Railway, is advantageously situated on the Ohio, 108 miles south of Indianapolis, nearly op- posite the city of Louisville, of which, with tie adjacent falls, it commands a fine view. The river at this point is nearly a mile wide, and has a swift cur- rent. The Indiana Slate Prison is well worth visiting. Population, about 5,000. Fort 'Wayiae^ in the northeast ■ part of the State, is an important railway centre at the junction of the Pittsburg and Chicago with the Toledo and Wabash Railway. The St. Joseph's and St. Ma- ry's Elvers form the Maumee at this poitt, and the Wabash and Erie Canal comes in 122 miles from Lafayette, and 112 miles from Indianapolis. Fort Wayne was the ancient site of the Twight-wee village of the Miami Indians. The fort, which gives its name to the town, was erected here in 1794, by the command of General Wayne. It continued to be a military post until 1819. The Miamis were not removed westward until 1841. Population 11,000. I'ei-re Miiiite, — Hotel, the Terre Haute House. Terre Haute, the seat of justice ot Yigo County, is on the east bank of the > Wabash lliver, near the western boun- dary of the State. The town is most pleasantly situated upon a bank 60 feet above the Wabash. Fort Harrison Prai- rie, which sweeps away to the eastward, is famous for its charming landscape. Pork, grain, and flour are largely export- ed by the Wabash, and Erie Canal, which, passes through the city. Eailway cou- nection with Indianapolis (73 miles) and St. Loui& (189 miles), by the Terre Haidc, Alton, and St. Louis Railway, The JEvccnt,ville and Crawfordsville Raihvay connects it with Evansville (109 miles), and with Eockville (23 miles). Popula- tion (estimated), 9,600. ,i lATAYETXE.] INDIANA. [Richmond. ! lii a fa, y e 1 1 e . — Hotel, Bramble louse. Lafayette is pleasantly situated upon ie Wabash River and the Wabash and rie Canal, at the intersection of the '.ouisville, New Albany, and CMcago Milroad with the Toledo and Wabash bad. It is 64 miles northwest of In- (anapolis, and 123 miles southeast of hicago, with both of which cities it has hmediate connection by rail. It is the pincipal grain market of the State. It as settled in 1825, and contains a popu- tion now estimated at nearly 12,000. Evams'^'ilie. — Hotel, the Pavilion yei. Evansville is upon the high bank of the lio, near the southwest extremity of the jate, 200 miles from the Mississippi, and e . same distance below Louisville, in ntucky. It is the southern terminus the Evansville and Crawford-iville Rail- "y and of the Wabash and Erie Canal, pleted in 1853. Among the most jlbminent buildings are the Cotirt-House, te Bank, Marine Hospital, and two or ee of the church edifices. Large shipments ot grain and pork, the pro- ducts of southeastern Indiana, are made here by steamboat. Flour is extensively milled here, and there are several large breweries. Population, 12,600. ISiclimoBisl is situated on a fork of Whitewater River, four miles from the Ohio State line, 69 miles from Indian- apolis, the capital, and '70 northwest of Cincinnati. It is a growing town, and has several flourishing manufactories of cotton, wool, iron, paper, and flour. The river furnishes abundant water-power, which is very generally taken advantage of by the inhabitants, for it has become the chief manufacturing town in the State. Richmond has ten or twelve churches, a public library, a branch of the State Bank of Indiana, two fire compa- nies, and a large number of retail stores. It is the centre of a rich and populous agricultural district, with which it does an active trade. The population is estimated at about 8,500. The Chicago and Great Easterii and Cincinnati, Eaton, and Mich- mond Railioays, connect here, and pass through the town. 186 Illinois."! ILLINOIS. [Illinois. ILLINOIS Illinois, the fourth State of the Union in population, and the first in the pro- duction of breadstuffs, extends north- ward 380 miles, and westward (at the extremest point) 200 miles. It is bounded by Wisconsin on the north. Lake Michigan and Indiana on the east, Kentucky on the south (the Oliio be- tween), and Missouri and Iowa on the west, the Mississippi River intervening. The general surface of the country here, as in Indiana and Ohio, is that of elevated table-lands, inclining southward, though it is more level than the neighboring States. In the lower portions there is a small stretch of hilly land, and some broken tracts in the northwest ; and upon the Illinois River there are lofty bluifs, and yet higher and bolder points on the Mississippi. The great landscape feature of Illinois is its prairies, which are seen in almost every section of the State. The want of variety, which is ordinarily essential to landscape attraction, is more than compen- sated for in the prairie scenery, as in that of the boundless ocean, by the impi'essive qualities of immensity and power. Far as the most seai-ching eye can reach, the great unvarying plain rolls on ; its sub- lime grandeur softened but not weakened by the occasional groups of trees in its midst, or by the forests on its verge, or by the countless flowers everywhere upon its surface. The prairies abound in game. The prairie duck, sometimes but im- properly called grouse, are most abun- dant in September and October, when large numbers are annually taken. Perhaps the most striking picture of the prairie country is to be found on Grand Prairie. Its gently undulating plains, profusely decked with flowers of every hue, and skirted on all sides by 1S6 woodland copse, roll on through mat long miles from Jackson County, north- east to Iroquois County, with a width varying from one to a dozen or more miles. The uniform level of the prairie region is supposed to result from the de- posit of waters by which the land was ages ago covered. The soil is entirely free from stones, and is extremely fertile. The most notable characteristic of the prairies, their destitution of vegetation, excepting in the multitude of rank grasses and floAvers, will gi-adually dis- ■ appear, since nothing prevents the growth of the trees, but the continual fires which sweep over the plains. These prevented, a fine growth of timber soon springs up; and as the woodlands are thus assisted in encroaching upon and occupying the plains, settlements and habitations will follow, until the prairie tracts are over- run with cities and towns. Of the thirty- five and a half millions of acres embraced within the State, but thirteen millions, or little more than one-third, were improved in 1860, showing that, despite her won- i derful progress in population and pro- i duction, she is yet only in her infancy. ; Excepting the specialty of the prairie, the most interesting landscape scenery of this State is that of- the bold, acclivitous river shores of the Mississippi, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers. The agricultural capabilities of Illi- nois are unsurpassed by those of any other State in the Union. The soil on the river bottoms is often 25 or 30 ■ feet deep, and the upper prairie districts • are hardly less productive. The richest ^ tracts in the State are the Great Amer- ican Bottom, lying along the Missis-:: sippi, between the mouths of the MiSr-; souri and the Kaskaskia Rivers, a stretch of 80 miles, the country on the Rock LLINOIS.] ILLINOIS. [Illinois. [liver and its branches, and that around jiie Sangamon and other waters. Thirty 40 bushels of wheat, or SO to 100 lushels of Indian corn to the acre, is by means an uncommon product here. In le growth of Indian corn, Illinois ranks 3 the first State in the Union. In re- ject to other agricultural staples and toducts, what we have said of the ad- jnning States of Ohio and Indiana, may ? repeated of lUinois ; so of the forest- ees of the country. . In mineral resources the State is well ovided. She shares, with the adjoin- States of Iowa and Wisconsin, ex- sive supplies of lead. The trade in this jineral is the chief support of the pros- rous tov/n of Galena, in the northwest rt of Illinois. Forty million of pounds lead were shipped from that port in 52. Bituminous coal exists every- "liere, and may be produced in many l|ices without excavation. The bluffs, ijar the Great American Bottom, con- ijn immense beds of this valuable pro- first Street, to Bridgeport. ; in the West Division five lines, viz., Randolph Street, Madison Street, Milwaukee Avenue, Hal- ' sted and Blue Island Avenue, and Clin- ton Street ; and in the North Division four lines, viz., to city limits, Chicago Avenue, Sedgwick Street, and Clybourne Avenue. The principal hack-stands are on Court- House Square, immediately opposite the Sherman House. The fares are regulated by law, being 50 cents for one passenger for all distances not exceeding one mile. Over one, and not exceeding two miles, one dollar. When hacks are engaged by the hour or day, the price should be agreed on before starting. Livery stables are numerous, and generally well stocked, and strangers will find it most satisfac- tory to order conveyances from them, as they will thus be saved frequent over-. charges and other annoyances. Wright' Brothers, 246 Kinzie Street, and George, Hall, 4*7 Wabash Avenue, have bothi good stables. Routes. — From New York. — To Buf- falo or Niagara Falls, by the New York and Erie or the Hudson River and Cen- tral Railways ; from Niagara, by the Great Western Railroad (Canada) to De- troit; and fromL'eti'oit, through Michigan, i by the Michigan Central Railroad, or from i, Buffalo, by the Lake Erie steamers, or the I Lake Shore Railway, via Erie, Cleveland, ' and Sandusky to Toledo, and thence by I the Michigan Southern route. Distance, i via Niagara Falls and Detroit, 963 miles; via Buffalo and Toledo, 986 miles. Chicago.] ILLINOIS. [Chicago. From Philadelphia. — PeMnsi/hania, Cen- ral Railroad, 335 miles to Pittsburg; hence by PitUiurg, Fort Wayne, and Ihicago Railroad. Total distance, 823 liles. From Baltimore. — Baltimore and Ohio Railway to Wheeling and Bellaire, and lence via Pittsburg and Fort Wayne. From New Orleans, via Jackson, Co- mbus, and Cairo, 914 miles. ! From St. Louis, via Alton and Spring- eld, 280 miles. Chicago, the largest, most populous, jid most important city of Illinois, and »e commercial metropolis of the North- est, is situated on the western shore of fake Michigan, at the mouth of the licago River. By means of the latter, id the Illinois and Michigan Canal, it has intinuous communication with the Mis- Bsippi River, the Gulf of Mexico, and the icific Ocean, on the west, and with the ain of lakes, the St. Lawrence, and the tlantic Ocean, on the east. Probably no land city in the world possesses greater 3ilities for commercial intercourse. The rapidity of its growth in popula- »n and trade finds no parallel either ancient or modern times. The history the city, though brief, is interesting, t only on account of the romantic inci- I nts of its early discovery and occupa- in, but as furnishing one of the most, jrliaps the most remarkable instance • I record of rapid, sustained, and perma- ]bt growth. The first visitors to the site of the ipsent city were Joliet (Louis) and Mar- (ette (Jacques), who arrived August, ][73. Point au Sable, a native of St. Imingo, followed in 1*796, but soon £[erward removed to Peoria. The first ji'manent settlement was made in 1804-, I Mr. John Kinzie, who moved hither fin St. Joseph, at that tune a mission- a^ station on the east side of Lake Ibhigan. On April ^ and August 12, 112, the Indian massacre ocxiurred at I ft Dearborn, which resulted so disas- tlusly to the little garrison. It the close of 1830, Chicago con- tiied twelve houses and three suburban (' country ") residences on Madison Street, vfh a population, composed of whites, h'l-|jrceds, and blacks, numbering about 100. The first map of the town, as sur- veyed by James Thompson, bears date August 4, 1830. Fort Dearborn was constructed in 1804, rebuilt in 1816, and pulled down in 185*7. It stood near the head of Michi- gan Avenue, below its intersection with Lalie Street, and a little north of the present Marine Hospital building. The town was organized August 10, 1833, incorporated as a city March 4, 183Y, and the first election held May 1, 183*7, so that it is now in its thirtieth year. The first vessel entered the harbor June 11, 1834, and at the ofiicial census, taken July 1, 183*7, the entire population was found to be 4,1*70. Outside of Fort Dear- born, in 1833, were about 35 houses, mostly built of logs. The first frame building was erected in 1832, by George W. Dole, and the first brick house in 1833. It was standing on Monroe Street, near Clarke, at a recent period. In 1843 tlie population of the city had increased to 7,580; in 184*7 to 16,859; in 1850 to 28,269; in 1855 to 80,023; in 1860 to 109,263, and in 1865 to 1*78,539. Its present population, city and suburban, is estimated at 260,000. During the years 1856-'S*7, and '58 the entire business portion of the city was raised from three to eight feet above its former level, which has facilitated drain- age, and greatly improved its sanitary condition as well as commercial facilities. The site of the city is at present a gently inclined plane, the ground in the western part of the city, three miles from the lake, being from 15 to 18 feet above the level of the lake. The streets are generally 80 feet wide, and regularly built. They cross each other at right angles, and are for the most part paved with stone or with the Nicholson pave- ment. Many of them are from three to five miles in length. The Chicago River, and its two bi'anches, run through the city, dividing it into three nearly equal divisions, known as North, South, and West Chicago. Numerous bridges con- nect the main avenues of travel leading from the city proper to the Northern and Western Divisions. These divisions are subdivided into 16 wards, and con- tain 416 streets, avenues, and alleys. The river affords a harbor for the largest 189 Chicago.] ILLINOIS. [Chicago vessels for more than five miles, at the entrance of which is a new iron light- house. Lake Street is the Broadway of Chicago; while Michigan Avenue and Wabash Avenue are distinguished by- princely edifices, and adorned with rows of luxui-iant trees. On South Water Street are situated many of the ware- houses and all the lai-ge wholesale stores. Many of the private residences on the north and west side of the river are handsomely built, and surrounded by highly ornamented or cultivated grounds. Chicago is the greatest primary grain- market in the world. The first shipment, consisting of 18 bushels of wheat, took place in 1838. In 1863 the exports of grain exceeded fifty-four millions of bushels, and m 1865 about the same amount was shipped. In 1865 nearly six hundred and fifty milhon feet of lumber were received. The provision trade is also very extensive and pros- perous. To those who would carry away with them a just estimate of the greatness of Chicago, a visit to the extensive grain elevators, cattle and lumber yards, and packing-houses, is necessary. These estab- Mshments, together with the railway stations, and the activity which every- where manifests itself in the industrial pursuits of its people, constitute the striking features of Chicago life. The immense elevators of Sturges, Buckingham & Co., Phnt & Thompson, and Munn & Scott, are well worthy a visit. The two latter have an aggre- gate capacity of two and a half million bushels. The total capacity of the 17 elevators in the city is ten million fifty- five thousand bushels. The Union Stock Tai'ch embrace 345 acres, laid out in streets and avenues, and provided with an abundant supply of water and every thing needful in the receiving and tending of stock. Nine of the rail- ways, terminating in Chicago, find a com- mon centre here. Fifteen milhon feet of lumber were used in constructing the flooring and pens, and the whole cost of construction thus far has reached one milhon dollars. The extensive breweries of the " Lill " and " Sands " companies are well worthy a visit. The best points of* observation in this Prairie or Garden City, as it is some- 190 times though inappropriately called, ar worthy of note. Tliey are tl;e C»un House Tower and the Sherman IIovs Observatory. Public Grounds, Buildings, etc- Chicago, though by no means densel populated even in its most crowded quai ters, has already several fine publi grounds and promenades. The mos attractive is the Esplanade, sometime called Lake Park, which extends alon the basin, on the east side of Michiga: Avenue, from Randolph Street to Pari Place. On summer evenings, the uppe end of this delightful promenade present an animated appearance. Dearborn Park is an enclosure of on and a half acres, near the north end o: the Esplanade. It is the oldest publi ground in the city. Union Fark.^ in the West Division contains an area of five and a half acre; well laid out, and ornamented with shadi trees. Jefi'erson Park, near Union Park, coi taining five acres, has several handsom residences around it. Lincoln Park, north of the City Cem( tery, on the lake shore, contains nearly 6 acres, and is undergoing improvement: which wUl eventually make it the mo; attractive public ground in the West. The pi'hicipal public buildings areli cated in the very heart of the city, an are easily accessible. They are the C« tom-House and Post- Office, the Chamk of Commerce, Crosby''s Opera-Honse, tb Court-House, and the Armory. The B' pot of the Union or Central Railway i, also a fine building of immense extent. The Court-House is an iiiposing edific(' though architecturally defective. It i built of Lockport hmestone. It M'as con pleted in 1855, and occupies the mo.- central square in the city. The towe which is reached by a spiral stairwa; commands the best view to be had of tb city and lake. The Chamber of Com,merce, at tb corner of Washington and Lasalle Street: should be visited. It is of Athens ma : ble, in the modern ItaUan style, 181 fci long by 93 feet wide, and is justly _a( mired for its fine propoi'tions and finisl It was completed, August 1865, at cost, including the ground, of $400,00( Chicago.] ILLINOIS. [Chicago, The Board of Trade Hall is a magnificent apartment, 143 feet in length, 85 feet wide, and 45 feet high, and lighted by 25 windows, each 25 feet in height. The ceiling, etc., is I'ichly frescoed. The daily sessions of the Board, from 11 to 1 o'clock, afford one of the characteristic sights of the city. The best hour for Strangers to visit it is 12 o'clock. Admis- sion to the balcony overlooking the hall. The Merchants' Exchange, incorporated February 16, 1865, is at 1*7 Dearborn Street. ! The Ops^-a-Hotise is one of the most brominent and costly buildings in the fity. It stands on Washington Street, etween State and Dearborn, having a f-ont on the former of 140 feet, and run- ing back 1*79 feet. The building was com- leted in 1865, and cost $450,000. It b four stories high, and presents a chaste nd imposing appearance. Kinsley\'; Res- lurant and Confectionery, on the first oor, is the leading establishment of its ind in the city. Besides the pubUc buildings enume- ited above, the city contains 60 haUs, Ihich are used as lecture, concert, and ;sembly rooms. The principal are ryan and Metropolitan HaUs. Among the public Avorks of the city lecially worthy of notice is the Lake fichiffan Tunnel for supplying the city ^th water. Permits to visit it are fanted at the ofiice of the Water-works, ^rner Chicago Avenue and Pine Street. lis fine work was commenced March 1, 1864, and completed December, 1866. le depth of the shore shaft is 69 feet, d of the lake shaft 64 feet ; the whole jigth of the tunnel is two miles. The s;e terminus of the tunnel, known as ■p " Crib," should be first visited. It is ipposed of timber securely bolted to- jther, and is 40 feet long, and pentag- between Halsted and Desplaines Streetsji and Dearborn School, erected in 1844fl and the oldest now standing, is on Madi-v son between State and Dearborn Streets. Among the purely literary and scientific institutions the Academy of Sciences and the Historical Society are best wortb visiting. The former was organized ii 1856, and mcorporated in 1865. Tht' rooms of the society occupy the uppeii part of the Metropolitan block, comer of Randolph and LasaUe Streets, and con tain 38,000 specimens in the several de partnients of natural history. The His torical Society, organized April, 1856 under the zealous and efficient manage ^ ment of the secretary. Rev. Wm. Barry has made rapid progress in its collection! within the past few years. The hbrar 193 192 HICAGO.] ILLINOIS. [Chicago. pw numbers upward of 85,000 bound bd unbound books and pamphlets. The istorical department of the collection nbraces many extremely rare and valu- jle works, and constitutes by far the Dst valuable collection, pubhc or pri- ito, in the Northwest. A day or two ay be profitably spent by the traveller examining the shelves of this fine li- my, which has recently been placed m e new building of the society, on the )rthwest corner of Dearborn and On- rio Streets, North Division. The Libi'ary of the Young Men\ las is also a good house, but of smaller capacity, near the railway station. Springfield, the State capital, and the seat of justice of Sangamon County, lies southwest of the centre of the State, near the Sangamon River, upon the con- 1 fines of a beautiful praii-ie district, 97 miles north-northeast of St. Louis, and i 188 miles southwest of Chicago. It was laid out in 1822. In the centre of the city is a square, occupied by the State Cajntol and other pubUc edifices, and compassed by spacious and elegant streets. Springfield was the residence and is now the burial-place of Abraham Lincoln, late President of the United States. Oak Ridge Cemetery, two miles north i of the city, is a picturesque rural burying- ground. It embraces 72 acres, and was laid oft" in May, 1856. Six acres, near thoi southeastern extremity of the ceme* tery, are set apart for the purposes of the National Lincoln Monument Association. It is estimated that the monument will cost $250,000. The vault in which the remains of the late lamented President and his two young sons, Eddie and Willie, are' temporarily placed, crowns the summit of a little hill facing the northeast. It is of brick, with stone copings, and about ten feet high. The names of upward of 30,- 000 visitors have already been registered in the curator's book. The Springfield High School, establish- ed in 1818, is worthy a visit. The new- building, on the corner of Madison and Fourth Streets, is a fine four-story brick building, just completed, at a cost oi $75,000. The hall, on the fourtli floor, has sittings for 600. The pupils numbei 160, and are under the charge of Williaia M. Baker, principal. The Great Western Railway ninfi Peoria.] ILLINOIS. [Alton. througli Springfield, intersecting the Chicago, Alioji, and St. Louis Kailway, and connecting Springfield with Toledo on the east, and with Quincy, Keokuk, and Central Iowa on the west. Next to the State-House, the most prominent buildings are the Court-House, Arsenal, and one or two churches. There is a theatre, and a commodious lecture and concert hall. Some of the private resi- dences in the southern part of the city are conspicuous for their size and elegance. From the observatories of the Leland House and the State-House extended [views are to be obtained. Population, estimated at 15,000. l®eoa*ia.. — Hotel, Peoria House. Peoria lies northwest of the centre of the State, upon the Illinois River, at the outlet of Peoria Lake. It is 161 miles from Chicago, by the Chicago and Rock ^dand Hailwai/. It has direct commu- ication with Logansport, Indiana, and ith all important points in Illinois and the djoining States. Distance from Rock sland, 11-i miles; from Springfield, 70 iles north ; from St. Louis, 16Y miles. Peoria is the most populous place pon the Illinois River, and commer- bially one of the most important in the State. It is situated upon rising ground, a broad plateau, extending back from the bluff and the river expanding nto a broad, deep lake. This lake is the most beautiful feature in the scenery of Peoria, and as useful as it is beautiful, for it supplies the inhabitants with ample stores of fish, and in winter with abun- iance of purest ice. It is often frozen to mch a thickness that heavy teams can jass securely over it. A substantial Irawbridge connects the town with the opposite shore. The city is laid out ih rectangular blocks, the streets being Ivide and well graded. The schools and Bhurches are prosperous, and the society rood. A public square has been reserved icar the centre. Back of the town extends me of the finest rolling prairies in the ?tate, which already furnishes to Peoria ts supplies and much of its business. ?eoria was first visited by Joseph Mar- niette and M. Joliette in 1673. The second asit was by Robert Chevalier de la 5aUe, accompanied by Louis Hennepin ^nd M. Tonti, in 1680. They proceeded thither in the " Griffin," built near Black Rock, on the Niagara River. Their route was up the St. Joseph River, across to Kankakee, thence dov/n the Illinois River to " Pieddu lac Pemiteouii " (Lake Peo- ria). "Creve-Cosur " — Broken Heart — the name given to a fortification erected by La Salle, stood on the southeastern side of the river, about three miles distant from the present city of Peoria. Port St. Louis was built by La Salle, in 1683, on a detached bluff, seven miles below the city of Ottawa, known to early set- tlers as "Starved Rock." Fort Clark, erected in 1813, under Governor Ninian Edwards, was destroyed by Indians in 1819. The population, in 1860, amounted to 14,425 ; m 1866, to 17,460. The his- tory of the present town dates from 1819. It was incorporated in 1844. Altosa. — Hotel, the Alton House. Alton is upon the Mississippi, 23 miles above St. Louis, on the Terre Haute and Alton Railway, 174 miles from Terre Haute, 247 from Indianapolis, 257 miles below Chicago, and 72 below Springfield, by the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis line. The Missouri enters the Mississippi three miles below Alton, contributing greatly to the commercial value of its jjosition. It possesses one of the best landings on the great river. The present city, of about 11,000 people, has grown up since 1882, at which time the Penitentiary was established here. The Penitentiary has since been removed to Joliet. Upper Alton is the seat of the Shurtleff (Bap- tist) College. It is also the seat of the diocese of the Roman Catholic Church for Southern IlUuois, and has a fine cathedral. Limestone and stone-coal abound in the vicinity. Lime is shipped in large quantities. Clialjacy. — Hotel, the Quincy House. Quincy is on the Mississippi, 170 miles above St. Louis, and 104 miles west of Springfield ; 265 miles from Chicago, by the Chicago and Burlington road, 100 miles from Galesburg. By these lines Quincy is connected also with Galena, Rock Island, Peoria, and other cities. The town is built upon a limestone bluii". 125 feet above the river, in the vicinity of a fertile, rolling prairie. It contains a fine square, court-house, and two hand- uome church edifices. 195 NAnvoo.] ILLINOIS. [JOLIET. Rock Island. — Hotels, tlie Fanshaio House ; the Fuller House. Rock Island is two miles above the mouth of the Rock River, on the Missis- sippi, opposite Davenport, Iowa, at the foot of the upper rapids, wliich extend 15 miles. It is the State terminus of the Mock Island Railroad, on the great high- way of travel from the Eastern States via Chicago (182 miles) to Iowa and the Far West ; 56 miles east of Iowa City. This city is named after a large island near by, which is much resorted to dur- ing the summer months. A bridge con- nects it with Davenport. It is a pictu- resque and most thi-iving place. The Island House. Pea'ii. — Hotel, Aloore's. Peru is in Lasalle County, upon the Illi- nois River, and the Chicago and Kock Island Railway at its intersection with the Illinois Central road. From Chicago, 100 miles ; from Rock Island, 82 miles. The Illinois and Michigan Canal termi- nates near Peru. The town is' very ad- vantageously situated, with ready and general railway access,' and at the head of ordinary navigation on the Illinois River. Population, 4,500. Naiivoo is on the Mississippi River, at the second and last rapids below the Falls of St. Anthony, which extend up the river about 12 miles. It is 52 miles above Quincy, and 220 above St. Louis. (For routes, see Quincy and Burlington.) This is the site of the famous Mormon city, which was founded in 1840 by ''Joe Smith " and his followers, and once con- tained a population of 18,000. It is lo- cated on a bluffy but is distinguished from every thing on the river bearing that name by an easy, graceful slope, of very great extent, rising to an unusual height, and containing a smooth, regnilar surface, which, with the plain at its summit, is sufficient for the erection of an immense city. Nauvoo was laid out on a very ex- tensive plan, and many of the houses were handsome structures. The great Mormon Temple, an object of attraction, and seen very distinctly from the river, was 128 feet long, 88 feet wide, 65 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 163 feet to the top of the cupola. It would accommodate an assemblage of 1S6 3,000 persons. The architecture, al- though of a mixed order, in its main fea- tures resemljled Doric. It was built of compact, polished limestone, obtained on the spot, resembling marble. In the ! basement of the temple was a basin, 15 feet high, supported by 12 oxen of colos- ; sal size, cut in stone. In this font the ! Mormons were baptized. This build- ing, without an equal in the West, and worth half a million of dollars, was fired by an incendiaiy, on the 9th of October, 1848, and reduced to a heap of ruins, Joe Smith and a number of his followers were arrested, and confined in the county • prison, where, in June, 1844, they were • put to death by a mob, disguised and I armed. Expelled from Illinois by force ■ of arms, the Mormon community removed I to their present settlements in Utah. In ■ May, 1850, a company of French social- ists (Icarians), led by M. Etienne Cabet, established themselves here, but have since been dispersed. •ffollet, the capital of Will County, , is pleasantly situated at the intersection i of the Chicago and Rock Island and I Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railways, 40 miles from Chicago by the former and ' 37 miles by the latter line. The Des- - plaines River and the Illinois and Michi- gan Canal pass through the city, and I afi:brd fine manufacturing power. The •■ State Ptniientiary is an imposmg edified • of gray limestone, quarried in the vicini- ty. One million dollars were expended I j in its construction. Population, about l 10,000. \ \ Otta'^va, the capital of Lasalle ;, County, stands on the Illinois River, near - the mouth of the Fox River, and on the \ Chicago and Rock Islaoid Railway, 84 : miles from Chicago. It is lighted with gas, and contains some handsome build- ings. A fall of neai'ly 30 feet in the Fox River affords fine manufacturing privi- \ leges. Coal is extensively mined in the . vicinity. The population exceeds 10,000. ■ . Bjasalte, named after the early ex- - plorer of the Illinois River and State, is '. the terminus of the Illinois and Michigan i Canal, 100 miles long, which connects the navigable waters of the river with Lake Michigan, at Chicago. It is reached from that city by the Rock Island Rail- &ALENA.] ILLINOIS. way. Coal and zinc are among the prin- jipal exports. Population, between four md five thousand. Sloomirag'toin, the thriving capi- al of McLean County, is pleasantly situ- ited near the centre of the State, in the aidst of a ricli farming region. It is 126 ailes south of Chicago, by the Chicago, ilton, and St. Loins Railway, which in- ersects the Illinois Central road from kmleith to Cairo, two miles north of tlie pwn. The State Normal University and le Wesleyan University are well worthy \ I visit. The former is an imposing edi- Ice, erected in ISSY-'SS, at a cost of Noo,ooo. Aiii'ora, a thriving town in Kane lounty, is pleasantly situated on the Fox iver and tiie Chicago, Burlington, and kcinci/ Raihvay, 40 miles west of the ■st-named citj'. Tlie Fox River affords JDundant water-power, and Aurora is be- »ming a place of extensive manufac- res. The workshops of the Chicago, irlington, and Quincy road are located The City Hall is a fine edifice, jpulation, nearly 10,000. Cralcua, the capital of Jo Daviess )unty, is one of the oldest as well as the Dst interesting towns in the State. It is iched from Chicago (1'72 miles) by the Jena division of the JVorthwestern liail- ■ly, and from St. Louis (450 miles) by ; ckets on the Mississippi Eiver. It is i uated on Fevre Kiver, six miles from its tjtrance into the Mississippi, in the ex- Ime northwestern corner of the State, Id mile? north of Cairo, with which it ]js daily connection by the Illhiois Cen- kl Railway. The city, which is built on if slope and summit of a rocky ledge of •asiderable altitude, pi-esents a very iique appearance, and commands ex- sive and varied views. The town owes ill growth to the production and shipment cljthe lead mined in the vicinity. A visit tone or more of these mines and the sj'accnt furnaces will repay the traveller, lipulatiou of the city in 1860 was 8,200, Mich has since been increased to nearly IjOOO. jKaleslmrg', in Knox County, is a tiiving city on the Chicago, Burlington, dl Qiiincy road, 165 miles southwest of Cicago, and 53 miles west-northwest of 1 iria. It has several fine educational [Freepout. institutions, among the most prominent of which are Knox College and Lonihard Col- lege. Population, 8,200. "l^aiilceg-Esn (formerly called Liltle- fort) is delightfully situated on the western shore of Lake Michigan, 35 miles north of Chicago, and 50 miles south of Mil- waukee by rail. The residence portion of the village is built on a bluff, nearly 50 feet from the level of the lake, which is here upward of YO miles wide, and commands attractive views. It con- tains a lecture-hall, nev/spaper {Gazette) office, and several good stores ; and being a remarliably healthy place, is much re- sorted to by Chicago families during the summer months. Population, 5,000. Evanston, Glcncoe, LaJce Forest, and Rock- land are pleasant summer residence spots suburban to Chicago, and located on the line of the Chicago and Milwaukee road, between the former city and Waukegan. Evanston, 10 miles north of Chicago, is the seat of the Northwestern University and a flourishing Female College, founded in 1855. The village was laid out in 1852-53, and is named after Dr. John Evans, ex-Governor of Colorado. F'l-eeport, the capital of Stephen- son County, is a thriving town on the Pe- katonica River at the junction of the Chicago and Galena, the Jllinois Central, and Western Union Raihvays, 121 miles west of Chicago, 51 miles south of Ga- lena, and 6*7 miles from Dunleith. It con- tains a good hotel, several handsome churches, and three newspaper ofiices. Present population (estimated), 8,600. ISocIcloi-d, one of the most at- tractive and flourishing cities of Illinois, is delightfully located on the east and west banks of the Rock River, nearly midway between Chicago (92 miles) and Dunleith, being I'cached from either city by rail in four hours. The river supplies it with a fine water-power, which has iDcen greatly improved. The county buildings are commodious. Laid out in 1834-35, it now contains nearly 9,000 inhabitants. ll>isoBa, also on Rock River, is readied by the Chicago and Northwestern Raihcay, 98 miles from Chicago. The Central road intersects the Northwestern at this point. A branch of the North- ivestern road extends 73 miles to Kenosha, Wisconsin. 19V Jacksonville.] ILLINOIS. [Cairo. Jaclfsoiaville, the capital of Mor- gan Couuty, is pleasantly situated in the midst of a "fertile prairie, near the Moi-e.sta Creek, 82 miles west of Springfield by the Great Western Rallwai/. The town is noteworthy for the prominence of its public ))uildings and educational and charitable institutions. The Illinois Col- lege, founded in 1830, occupies a com- manding locale and is in a flourishing condition. It has a library of 5,000 vol- umes. The Blind, Insane, and Deaf and Dumh Asylums are spacious edifices, each lo- cated about a mile from the municipal centre. The streets are generally wide and adorned with shade-trees. Popula- tion, '7,528. l>ecatM.i*, the capital of Macon County,_is at the intersection of the Cen- tral and Great WeMern Eailmaiis, 40 miles east of Springfield, and 44 miles Bouth of Bloomington. Population, about 6,000. Cairo is situated at the southern ex- tremity of the State, on a promontory formed by the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. The town- lies low, and formerly suffered much from inunda- tions caused by the periodical rise in these great rivers ; but a levee, erected some years ago at cost of $1,000,000, has greatly protected it and added to the growth and prosperity of the place. Steamboats plying between St. Louis, Cincinnati, and New Orleans call here, and during the late military and naval operations on the Mississippi River it oc- cupied considerable prominence as a depot and shipping port. A steam packet, plying between Columbus (Ky.) and Cairo, forms the connecting link in the chain of railway communication by the Mobile and Ohio and Illinois Central Railways between New Orleans and Chi- cago. Population (estimated), 4,300. The St. Charles is the leading hotel. The International. ISSOUKI.] MISSOURI. [M1SSO0E1 MISSOUEI jMissouri formed part of the ancient iiritory of Louisiana., purchased by the hited States from France. It is one of |e largest of the United States, being miles long, and nearly 280 miles de, and embraces an area of 43,000,000 res. It was the first State formed wholly St of the Mississippi. A settlement llled Fort Orleans was made within its its by the French in 1719. The oldest n in the State, St. Genevieve, was nded in 1*755. St. Louis was com- nced in 1764. The State was visited 1811 and in 1812 by a memorable ■ies of earthquakes, which occurred in vicinage of New Madrid. The face the country was greatly altered by |ose events ; hills entirely disappeared, ies were obliterated, and new ones med. The waters of the Mississippi ver were turned back with such accu- lations, that they overran the levees ilt to hem them in, and inundated ole regions, leaving it in its present arshy state. The more recent history of Missouri [s been an eventful one. It was the ene of active and widely-extended lerations by both Federal and Confed- ate forces during the war of 1861-'65. 5 the only slaveholding State on the !stern border, it early attracted the at- ation of the Government. A conven- m met at Jefferson City, February 28, !61, which was adjourned to meet at St. )uis, March 4th, following. On the ith of May, 1861, a camp of instruction, bated in the western suburbs of St. iuis, and known as " Camp Jackson," d composed of State militia under the jmmand of General Frost, surrendered I the United States troops under General |ron. In marching out a riot took place, ' which twenty-five persons were killed and wounded. The respective forces ia the State in November of that year were estimated to amount to 42,000 men, 27,- 000 of whom were Federals. The State vvas the scene of almost continuous inva- sion, fighting, bushwhacking, and rioting during 1862-63, and indeed until nearly the close of the war. In October, 1864, the rebels under Price were routed near the crossing of the Little Osage EivcT, and the discomfited forces either taken prisoners or driven out of the State. The surface of this great State is in many parts level or but slightly imdula- ting. A wide marshy tract occupies an area of 3,000 square miles in the south- eastern part, near the Mississippi. In other sections are vast i-eaches of prairie lands, extending to the Rocky Mountains. The Ozark Mountains, which we have seen traversing the State of Arkansas, extend through Missouri, centrally, from north to south in the form of elevated table-lands. The rich alluvial tracts of the Mississippi lie east of this district, and westward are boundless deserts and treeless plains, sweeping away to the base of the Rocky Mountain ranges. Missouri is divided into 113 counties, and contained in 1860 a population of 1,182,012. The State is remarkably i-ich in iron ore, lead and copper and coal mines, and in nearly all the mineral products. It possesses, too, a great variety of marbles, some of them beautifully variegated, and other valuable building-stones. Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain, 85 miles south of St. Louis, are mineral curiosities well worthy a visit. The chief staples of Missouri are Indian corn, hemp, tobacco, flax, and all the va- rieties of grains, fruits, vegetables, and grasses, for the successful growth of which the soil is admirably adapted. 199 MlSSOUKI.] MISSOURI. [MlSSOCRI. Rivers. — The Ifissovri River. The restless, turbid waters of this m;ignificcnt river flow fretfully, 3,096 miles from their sources in the remote West, to their de- bouchure in the Mississippi, not far above the city of St. Louis. The entire length of the river, including its course to the Gulf of Mexico by the Mississippi (1,253 miles more), is 4,349 miles. The head- waters of the Missouri are very near the springs which find their way to the Pacific through the channels of the Columbia River. Their course is northward for 600 miles, until they reach the remarkable cataracts known as the Great Falls. Be- fore their arrival here, however, and at a distance of 411 miles from their source, the waters make the passage of the bold chasms called the " Gates of the Rocky Mountains." — " Here, through a length of six miles, the giant rocks rise perpen- dicularly to an elevation of 1,200 feet. The dark waters, in their narrow bed, wash the base of these huge walls so closely, that not a foothold is anywhej-e to be found. It is a ghostly gorge on the sunniest day, but whea its habitual gloom is deepened by the shadow of a stormy sky, its solitude grows painfully impressive. Let a thunder-peal reverbe- rate, as often happens, in a thousand wail- ing voices through the rocky windings of this glen, and let the blackness of dark- ness be increased by the vanished gleams of the lightning-flash, and you think you have left this fair world far behind you." A writer has thus described his expe- riences on a recent visit made to this re- gion : " We were once, with some friends, traversing this passage at such a fearful moment as we have described, when we became aware that we were pursued by a party of Indians. Noiselessly and breath- lessly we urged on our canoes, pausing at intervals only, to ascertain the progress of our foes ; hope and despair alternate- ly filling our breasts, as we seemed at one moment to be gaining, and at another los- ing ground. It was only now and then that we caught a glimpse of the savages, and the sound of their unceasing and un- earthly yells came to our ears with such uncertainty, that it gave us no clew to their position. The excitement of the struggle was intense, as then- random ar- 200 rows flew about our ears, and as the dead- ly effect of our fatal shots was told to usj by the death-cries from their own ranks. "We took fresh courage, as the increa8-'(> ing light spoke our approach to the ter-vt minus of the glen, and gave us hope, once"' on terra firma, of distancing our foes. ■ New fears, though, seized upon us, lest^-' our scanty supply of ammunition shoiddjil' be exhausted before we reached theji prayed-for sanctuary. Happily, the dreadi^ vanished, as the arrows of the savages-'- sensibly decreased in numbers, and the chorus of their infernal shrieks died away. "When we at lastloaped, panting, upon the shore, not a sound of pursuit was to ' be heard, leaving us the glad hope that we had slain them all, or so many as to secure us from further danger. But not stopping to verify this supposition, we made all possible haste to reach the camp v/hich we had so gayly left a few hours before. Once safe among our compan- ions, we mentally vowed to be wary henceforth, how we ventured within the gates of the Rocky Mountains." Tlie Great Falls of the Missouri are located 2,575 miles from its mouth, and 40 miles above Fort Benton. The de- scent of the swift river, at this point, is i 357 feet in \^ miles. The falls em- brace four cascades, the first of which is ' 26 feet, the next 27 feet, a third of 19 feet, and a fourth and lowest of 87 feet. Between and below these cataracts there are stretches of angry rapids. This pas- sage is one of extreme beauty and gran- deur, and at some day, not very distant, perhaps, when these Western wilds shall be covered with cities, and towns, and ' peaceful hamlets, this spot will be one of no less eager and numerous pilgrimage than many far less imposing scenes are now. The falls of the Missouri are es- teemed, by the few tourists whose good fortune it has been to look upon these wonders, as holding rank scarcely below the cataracts of Niagara. A late writer on the western territories says ; " The thunder of the faUing waters, veiled in snowy foam, the bold, wild banks, the dazzling rainbows, and the < immense volume of water, will make the spot a favorite one for tourists in all com- ■ ing time." The best, and indeed only fflSSOTTKI.] MISSOUEI. [Missouri. ravelled approach is by boat from St. jouis, during the " spring rise " in the Hissouri, to Fort Benton, 2,570 miles, and hence 25 miles by land. Fort Union, j:00 miles below Fort Benton, is the head |)f steamboat navigation during the sum- aer months. (See Montana, also Dakota). The upper waters of the Missouri flow hrough a wild, sterile country, and below lass vast prairie stretches. . Above the liver Platte, the open and prairie char- cterof the country begins to develop, ex- ending quite to the banks of the river, nd stretching from it indefinitely in laked grass plains, where the traveller aay wander for days without seeing either rood or water. Beyond the Council Jluffs (see Omaha), which are situated bout 600 miles up the Missouri, commen- es a country of great interest and gran- eur, denominated the Upper Missouri. It 5 composed of vast and almost boundless rass plains, through which run the 'latte, the Yellowstone, and the other ivers of this ocean of grass. Buffaloes, Ik, antelopes, and mountain sheep bound. Lewis and Clark, and other re- pectable travellers, relate having found ere large and singular petrifactions, both oimal and vegetable. On the top of a. ill they found a petrified skeleton of a uge fish, forty-five feet in length. The erds of gregarious animals, particulaiiy f the buffalo, are almost countless. The YeUoivsto7ie, one of the principal ■ibutaries of the Missouri, rises in the mie range of mountains witli the main ;ream. It enters from the south by a louth 860 yards wide, and is a broad nd deep river, having a course of about i600 miles. The Flatle, another tributary of the [issouri, rises in the same range of mountains with the parent stream, and, leasured by its meanderings, is supposed ) have a course of about 2,000 miles, pfore it joins that river. At its mouth is nearly a mile wide, but it is very iiallow, and is not boatable, except at its fghest floods. The Kmisas, or Kaw River, is a very rge tributary, having a course of about ^00 miles, and is boatable for most of ^e distance. La\ri"ence, Topeka, Fort iley, and other towns in Kansas, are on 3 banks. The Osage is a large and important branch of the Missouri ; it is boatable for 200 miles, and interlocks with the waters of the Arkansas. The Gasconade., boatable for 66 miles, is important from having on its banks extensive pine forests, from which the great supply of plank and timber of that kind is brought to St. Louis. Railways. — This State, though until within a comparatively recent period de- pendent almost wholly upon its unequalled river communications for commercial in- tercourse, is destined, as the chief, depot for tha products of the great West, to be- come an unportant railway centre. The following lines, embracing nearly one thousand miles of road, are now in opera- tion, affording rapid intercourse witla the Missouri Eiver as far as Leavenworth, and with the frontier States of Nebraska, Kansas, and the outlying territories of Dakota, Colorado, and Utah. The Pacific Railway, from St. Louis to Kansas City, 283 miles, where it connects, via Wyandotte, Kansas, with the eastern division of the Union Pacific to Fort Riley, 125 miles. Soiithivest Pacific (Branch Pacific Rail- way) from Franklin (3*7 miles) to RoUa, 113 miles. The North Missouri Railway, from St. Louis 170 miles, to Macon City, where it comiects with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railway. The Hamiibcd and Si. Joseph Railway, from Hannibal, on the Mississippi River, 206 miles, to St. Joseph, on the Missouri River. The St. Louis and Iron Mountain Rail- way, from St. Louis, 87 miles, to Pilot Knob. A short road, known as the Platte Comity Railway, connects St. Joseph with Weston and Savannah, 52 miles. (For fuller information in I'egard to the railway system of the State and the con- nections formed with other routes of travel east and west, centring in that city, see St. LO01S.) ST. LOUIS. Hotels, Lindvll House, Southern, Bar- nmn's, Everett House, the Pla7iiers\ and the Olive St. House. 201 St. Louis.] MISSOUKI. [St. Louis. Routes. — From New York, via Cliicago {see Chicago), and thence by the O/dcaffo, Alton, and Si. Louis road (280 miles). Or to Cleveland, Ohio, by the Atlanlic and Great Western Hailway, G2Q miles; thence to Crestline, by the Cleveland, Cincinnati, and Columbus Railway, 75 miles ; Crest- line to Indianapolis {Bellefontaine line) 207 miles ; Indianapolis to Terre Haute, 73 miles ; and via Terra Haute to St. Louis, by the St. Louis, Alton, and Terre Haute Railway, 189 miles ; total, 1,173 miles. Or by the Atlantic and Great West- ern, 862 miles, to Cincinnati, and thence, 340 miles, by the Ohio and llinsis- sippi Railway. Total distance, 1,202 miles. From Philadelphia to Pittsburg, by the Pennsylvania Railway, 355 miles ; Pittsbui'g to Crestline (Pittsburg, Fort Wayne, and Chicago road), 187 miles ; Crestline to Indianapolis (^Bellefontaine road), 206 miles ; Indianapolis to St. Louis, via Terre Haute, 262 miles : total, 1,010 miles. From Baltimore, Bcdtimore and Ohio road to Wheeling (Bellaire), 379 miles ; to Columbus, 137 miles ; to Cincinnati, 120 miles ; to St. Louis, 340 miles : total, 976 miles. The Jjindell and the Southern rank among the finest hotels in the United States, being excelled by none either in respect to size or appointments. The Lindell occupies the entire block facing Washington Avenue, between Sixth and Seventh Streets, and, from its mammoth proportions and elegant design, presents a most imposing appearance. It is one of the ornaments of the city, of which its citizens feel justly proud, and will well repay a visit from every stranger visiting St. Louis. It contains 500 rooms, adapt- ed to the wants and tastes of all travel- lers, from a full suite of i3arlor, chambers, and bath-room, on the second and third floors, to the single chamber, adapted specially to the taste of single gentlemen. The gentlemen's reading-room, on the ground floor, is a handsome apartment. The Southern, which stands on the square bounded by Walnut, Fourth, Fifth, and Elm, will attract every stranger in that quarter by the elegance of its exterior. It is of enormous size, being 270 feet long on Walnut Street, and 113 feet on Fourth and Fifth Streets. The foundations were laid in 1858, and the work completed in 202 1862. It is built of Athens stone, closely resembling marble, in the Anglo-Italian style, from designs by Geoi'ge J. Barnett, and is six stories high. The gentlemen's dining-room, ladies' ordinary and grand parlor, are magnificent apartments. GuenedorCs Restaurant, 105 Washing- ton Avenue, near the Lindell Hotel, serves excellent dinners on the European plan. St. Louis, the chief city and port of entry of Missouri, and the commercial metropolis of the Upper and Central Mis- sissippi Valley, lies upon the right bank of the Mississippi River, 20 miles below its confluence with the Missouri, and 174 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is 744 miles below the Falls of St. An- thony, and 1,194 miles above the city of New Orleans. It is built upon two lime- stone plateaus, one 20 and the other 60 feet above the waters of the Mississippi. From the plain, into which the upper terrace widens, fine views of the city and its surroundings are presented. The en- tire extent of St. Louis along the cuitcs of the river is about 7 miles, and west- ward S^ miles. The densely settled por- tion, however, is confined to a district of about tvv'o miles along the river, and a little more than a mile in width. The streets are of good width, and regular. Front Street, stretching along the levee, is 100 feet in breadth. This highway, and Main and Second Streets, back of and parallel with it, are the great commercial streets. Chestnut and Market Streets are also fine thoroughfares. Local authorities differ as to the precise date of the selection of the site. Pierre Laclede Liguest landed on the present site of Barnum's Hotel, northeast corner Wal- nut and Second Streets, December 9, 1763 ; Anguste and Pierre Chouteau, on the 14th February, 1764. A map drawn by Au- guste Chouteau in that year, gives Third Street, then Rue de Chrange, as the limit of the young city westward as then laid out. It was settled as a trading station for the' trappers of the West. The annual average value of furs, brought here during the fif- teen successive years ending with 1804,was $203,750. The number of deer skins was 158,000; beaver, 36,900; otter, 8,000; bear, 5,100; buffalo, 850, and so on. At this period of wild fife, the population of St. Louis was between 1,500 r. Louis.] MISSOURI. [St. Louis. o'd 2,000, half of whom were always ^ay as voyageurs and trappers. Up to 820, the number of the people had not pached 5,000. In 1768 (August 11th), Rious and his bnd of Spanish troops took possession of lie place, in behalf of her Catholic ma- esty, who kept possession until it was ■ansferred to the United States, March j6, 1804. The first brick house was uilt in 1813. The first steamboat ar- vcd in ISIY. The history of St. Louis s a city began in 1822, with the name estowed upon it by Laclede, in honor of ouis XV. of France. Between 1825 id 1830, emigration began to flow in om Illinois, and the place thrived. The Dpulation in 1830 had reached 6,694 ; 1840, it had swelled to 16,469; in 350, it was 77,850 ; 1852, it contained, eluding the rapidly growing suburbs, ightly over 100,000, and the last census, 360, gave it 160,773. The estimated )pulation m 1866 was 190,000. The jundaries are Keokuk Street southward, id Grand Avenue west and north. It divided into 10 wards. Street cars have en successfully introduced, and the flerent portions of the city and suburbs ;'e now readily reached by this means. ose desiring to hire carriages, etc., will d Arnot's stables, 63 Chestnut Street, d the City Stables, 119 North Third rcet, among the best establishments deal with. Lafayette Square is almost e only public park of importance which e city yet possesses. I Public Buildings. — 1h& public edifices t St. Louis are in every way creditable the taste, munificence, and enterprise of [6 people. The Ciiy Hall, the Custom- \nuse., and the Court-House, are among ie most prominent and noteworthy. The Court-House, completed in 1860, a cost of upward of one million and jquarter dollars, is one of the finest edi- cs of its kind in the United States. It cupies the square adjoinmg the Plan- j's' House on the south, bounded by burth, Fifth, Chestnut, and Market ireets ; is built of Genevieve limestone, |id presents an imposing appearance. iie fronts are adorned with porticoes. iving to defects in lighting, the I'otunda, fd generally the interior of the building, esents a dark and gloomy appearance. The dome is of fine proportions, and though considerably smaller, greatly re- sembles that on the Capitol at Washing- ton. The Custom-House, at the southeast corner of Third and Ohve Streets, is a spacious, substantial edifice of Missouri marble. It occupies the site of one of the first theatres erected in St. Louis, and is built upon piles driven upward of twenty feet into the ground. It was erected from designs by Barnett, Peck, and Thomas Walsh, and cost $356,000. Underneath the Post-Office, which occupies the main floor of the building, is a vault which extends throughout the basement of the building. The second story is used for the purposes of the customs and United States Courts. The Merchants'' Excliange, fronting on Main and Commercial Streets, between Market and Walnut Streets, is a fine edi- fice. It was erected in 1856-'57 from de- signs by Barnett & Wiler, architects of the city, at a cost of $75,000. The height on Main Street is 75 feet, length 125 feet, and depth 85 feet. The main hall, or " Exchange," is a fine room, 102 by 81 feet. The reading-room is on the south side of the main hall. The best time to visit this building is between 11-J- and 12 o'clock when the merchants are " en 'Change." A permit from the super- intendent is necessary. The United States Arsenal is a grand structure, in the southeast part of the city ; and 13 miles below, on the river banks, are t!:e Jsjferson Barracks. CuuKCHES, ETC. — Of the churches, wliich exceed 80 in number, the following are the best worth visiting: The Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis, on Walnut, be- tween Second and Thuxl Streets ; St. George's, Ejiiscopal (Kev. Dr. Berkeley), at the corner of Locust and Seventh Streets, erected 1845, and the church of the Messiah (Unitarian), erected 1851, at the corner of Ohio and Ninth. The Cathedral, erected in 1833, is 136 feet long and 84 feet wide, and has a front of polished freestone, 58 feet high, with a Doric portico. In the tower is a fine chime of bells. The old churches, four in number, which were standing in 1829, have long since been removed. Among the more prominent benevolent 203 Jefferson City.] MISSOURI. [Lexington. institutions of the city are the Oily llos- jjilal, the Marine Hospildl (3 miles be- low the city), the Home for the Friendless, the Sisters' Hospital, and ten Orphan Asy- lums. Educational Institutions, etc. — St. Louis University, founded in 1829 by members of the Society of Jesus and in- corporated in 1832, is located between Washington Avenue, Green, and Ninth Streets; Pope's Medical College; theWash- inffion University, southwest corner of Washington Avenue and Seventeenth Street ; the Oarcudin Oollcge of the Ger- mans ; the Missouri University, are among the most prominent educational institu- tions of the city. There are three Commer- cial Colleges and a Polytechnic Institute (0. Fallon). The latter, organized in 1855, has a handsome stone edifice at the cor- ner of Chestnut and Seventh Streets, and a library of 7,000 volumes. There are five other libraries in the city, the most prominent and popular of which is that of the Mercantile Library Association. The Hiffh School, corner of Fifteenth and Olive Streets, is a fine building, erected in 1855 at a cost of $50,000. The di- mensions of the building are 6*7 by 84 feet. In the third floor is an Assembly Hall with seats for 700 persons. The public schools of the city number 30. BeUefontaine Oemetery is a beautiful burial-ground, situated about one mile from the river, on the road of the same name, five miles from the Court-House. It embraces about 350 acres of land and is tastefully decorated with shade-trees and shrubbery, and contains the remains of most of the old settlers and residents of St. Louis. Eoute by Fourth Street and Broadway cars to the Toll-gate, and thence by stage : through fare, 20 cents. There are 19 other cemeteries, some of ■which ai-e very tastefully ornamented. •i" c iS'e 1* s o la City. — Hotel, Mc- Carteyh. — Jefferson City, the capital of Missouri, is upon the Missouri River, 125 miles west of St. Louis by the Pacific Railway, or 155 miles by steamboat up the river. The situation is bold and beau- tiful, overlooking the turbid waters of the Missouri and their cliff-bound shores. The population in 1853 amounted to about 3,000. Jefferson City is on the great route to Kansais, Nebraska, Utah, Califor 204 nia, and all the Rocky Mountain re- gion. St. J oscpli. — Hotel, the Pacific. St. Joseph is upon the Missouri River, 340 miles above Jefferson City, and 496 miles, by water, from St.'LouLs. It is the most important place in the western part of the State, and a great point of departure for the Western emigrants. Population, 5,000. (See Hannibal.) CoIii.ni1>ia, the capital of Boone County, is 35 miles north-northwest of Jefferson City. It is the seat of the State University, a large and elegant edifice. M SA u 11 i )> a. I. — Hotel, Planters' House. Hannibal is upon the Mississippi, 153 miles above St. Louis, and 15 miles be- low Quincy, Illinois. A railway, 206 ' miles long, connects Hannibal with St. Joseph, on the Avestern boundary. Pop- ulation, 3,500. Sjesing-tom. — Hotels, City Hotel, Virginia Hotel. Lexington is upon the Missouri River, 120 miles, by land, from Jefferson City. The town has prosj^ered by its trade with the Santa Fe and Great Salt Lake cara- vans. Lexington was the scene of a gal- lant defence made by Colonel Mulhgan, with 3,000 State troops, against the rebel General Sterlmg Price. The siege lasted four days (September 16 to 20, 1861), when the garrison surrendered. Populii tion, in 1860, about 4,000. St. CBeaa-les City. — Hotels, j the Virghiia House, the City Hotel. St. Charles City is situated upon the Missouri, 22 miles from its mouth. By land, it is 6 miles below the Mississippi.; It is Les Pctites Cotes of the early French, established by Bianchette Chasseur, in 1769. Population, betwen 3,000 and 4,000. Cape ^mirardca'si. — Hotel, St. Charles. Cape Girardeau is upon the Mississippi, ; 45 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. : The St. Vincent College is located here. "'S^estoji. — Hotel, the St. George. . Weston is upon the Missouri, 200milosi by railway beyond Jefferson City, and 5 miles above Fort Leavenworth. B^alanyra is 6 miles from Marion City, its landing-place on the Mississippi River. The Qumcy and Hannibal branches Gaeondelet.] MISSOURI. [NewMadrid. of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Eailway intersect at this point. Carontlolct is 6 miles below St. Louis, on the Mississippi. It was founded by Delor de Tregette, in I'JQ'J, and is known among the early settlers as Vide Foche (Empty Pocket). St. <5eiievieve is 61 miles below St. Louis, on the Mississippi. It is the shipping-point for the products of the iron-works at Iron Mountain. We-^v Madrid, settled in 1*780, was formerly a noted place, but, owing to the dreadful earthquakes it experienced in 1811 and 1812, it has sunk into com- parative insignificance. It is situated on a great curve or bend of the river, the land being extremely low, and the trees along the bank presenting a great uni- formity of appearance. The view is most monotonous — a feature, indeed, character- istic of much of the scenery of the Lower Mississippi. On this side there is scarce- ly a dozen feet elevation for the distance of 100 miles. By the earthquake thou- sands of acres were sunk, and multitudes of lakes and ponds were created. The churchyard of this village, with its sleep- ing tenants, was precipitated into the river. The earth burst in what are called sand-blows. Earth, sand, and water were thrown up to great heights in the air. The river was dammed up, and flowed backward. Birds descended from the air, and took shelter in the bosoms of people that were passing. The whole country was inundated. A great number of boats passing on the jiver were sunk. One or two that were fastened to islands, went down with the islands. The country was but sparsely peopled, and most of the buildings were cabins, or of logs ; and it was from these circumstances that but few people perished. (For description of points below on the river, see Mississippi River.) 205 Iowa.] IOWA. [Iowa. IOWA. Iowa is one of the new States. It was organized as a Territory in 1838, and ad- mitted into the Union in 1846. It origin- ally fonned a part of the Louisiana pur- chase, and subsequently a part of Mis- souri and Wisconsin. It lies wholly be- yond the Mississippi, which washes all its eastern boundary. Oa this side, its neighbors are Wisconsin and lUinois. On the north is Minnesota; on the west, Minnesota and Nebraska; and upon the south, Missouri. It is 28*7 miles long from east to west, and 210 miles broad, and embraces an area of thirty-two and a half millions of acres, of which about one- sixth is under cultivation. The State has no very notable history, beyond the usual adventure and hardship of a forest life among savage tribes. The settlement of the region was commenced at Burlington, in the year 1833. The landscape of Iowa is marked by the features which we have traced in our visit to neighboring portions of the Northv/est, The surface is, for the most part, one of midulating prairie, varied with ridges or plateaus, whose ex- tra elevations impel the diverse course of the rivers and streams. The Cotcau des Prairies enters the State from Minnesota, and forms its highest ground. On the Mississippi, in the northeast, the landscape assmnes a bolder aspect, and pictures of rugged, rocky height and bluff are seen. A few miles above Dubuque, Table Mound will interest the traveller. It is a conical hill, perhaps 500 feet high, flattened at the summit. The Prairies, which are sometimes 20 miles across, present many scenes of in- terest, in their waj- — and it is a way not ungrateful to the unaccustomed eyes of the visitor from the Atlantic States — mo- 206 notonous as it may, possibly, grow in time. The rivers in some parts of the State wind through ravines of magnesian limestone, amidst which they have gradually worked their way, leaving the rocks in every gro- tesque form of imagery. The depressions in the ground, called sinks, are curious objects. These singular places, which are numerous, arc circular holes, 1 and some- times 20 feet across. They abound more particularly on Turkey River, in the upper part of the State. Near the mouth of this stream there are also to be seen many small mounds, sometimes rows of them, varying in height from 4 to 6 feet. Iowa has many mineral products, among which is an abundant supply of lead. Copper and zinc are also freely found, and plenty of coal. Rivers. — The Des Moines River, the most important stream in Iowa, rises in Minnesota, and flows 450 miles through the State, to its southeast extreu-iity, where it enters the Mississippi, 4 miles below Keokuk. It is navigable for small steam- ers 250 miles, or may be made so with some practicable improvements. The Iowa River is 300 miles in length, and is navigable from the Mississippi upward (80 miles) to Iowa City. The Skunk River (200 miles), the Cedar, the Mako- quela, and the Wapsipinicon, are all trib- utaries of the Mississip.pi. The Missouri and the 6^rea/;S'ioK.'K Rivers form the entire' western boundary of Iowa. Railways. — The State of Iowa is, like all the Northwest, being rapidly covered by an endless network of rails. The lines all radiate from points on the Mississippi River, being extensions of the great through lines from the Atlantic westward, via Chicago. They are the Burlington and Dubuque.] IOWA. [Burlington. Missouri River Railway, from Burlington to Ottumwa ("75 miles), where it connects with the Des Ifoines Valley Raihoay irom Keokuk to Des Moines (162 miles). The Mississippi and Mmoiiri Railway, from Davenport, opposite Rock Island, via Iowa City (54 miles) to Kellogg (131 miles). The Dubuque and Sioux City and Dit- mqne Southivestern Railway, from Du- Duque, via Farley (23 miles) — branch to !3edar Rapids (YQ miles), and Cedar Falls 99 miles) — to Iov,'a Falls (143 miles), in jrogress to Fort Dodge. ■ The Cedar Rapids and Ilissouri River ine (C. & N. W. R. R.), from Clinton, via edar Rapids (82 miles), to Boonesboro' 205 miles). The McGregor Western Railway, from :Gregor (opposite Prairie du Chieu, ^^is.) to Connover (50 miles). These lines embrace 800 miles of road, ompleted and in operation, with exten- ions in rapid progress, which, when com- letcd, will make a total of upward of ,000 miles. The State is divided into 99 counties, ud contains a population estimated at 30,000. Des Moines is the capital, and )ubuque, Davenport, Keokuk, Burlington, nd Iowa City, are the principal commer- ial towns. B>iB.l>iies Moimes, selected as the cap- ital of Iowa in 1855, is at the junction of the Des Moines and Raccoon Rivers, 120 miles west of Iowa City. It is 162 miles from Burlington and Keokuk by the Burlington and Mississippi River and Des Moines Vcdley Railways. Steam- boats ascend the Des Moines to this point from the Mississippi. The railway ■from Davenport to Council Bluff's is to pass through Fort Des Moines. The place was formerly a United States mili- tai'y post, but was evacuated in 1840. Population, 7,000. Cealai- ST'ialls and Cetlai* Kap- itls are thriving young towns on Cedar flUNNELL.] liver, connected by rail with Chicago nd the principal towns of Iowa and llinois. Orinnell is on the Mississippi and Wissouri Mailway, 120 nailes west of IOWA. [Grinnell. Davenport, and 66 miles west of Iowa City. It is the seat of Iowa College, for- merly located at Davenport. It is in the heart of one of the best portions of the State, a,nd is growing rapidly. 209 Minnesota.] MINNESOTA, [Minnesota. MINISTESOTA Romantic stories of the wonders of the land, which now forms the new State of Minnesota, were told more than two cen- turies ago by the zealous French mission- aries, who had even at that remote period pushed their adventures thither; never- theless, only a very few years have elapsed, since immigration has earnestly set that way, creating populous towns and culti- vated farms along the rivers and valleys, before occupied by the canoe and the wig- wam of the savage alone. Some idea of the marvellous productive progress of this young State may be gained from the fact that the crop of wheat — the staple product of the State— ^for 1866, amounted to fif- teen millions of bushels. Ttie magical development of Minnesota is in keeping with that marvellous spirit of progress so characteristic of the Western sections of the United States. So rapid is this growth, and on such a sure and enhght- ened a basis, that the church and the school-house spring up in the wilderness before there are inhabitants to occupy them. In Minnesota, one of the earliest foundations was that of an Historical Society (1849), established almost before the history of the country had begun. As a field of adventure, both for the student and the sportsman, it offers greater attractions than perhaps any other State in the West ; while the beauty of its scenery and the salubrity of its cli- mate present inducements to the lover of nature and the invalid which will always make it a desirable region for exploration and settlement. Minnesota occupies an area almost four times as great as that of the State of Ohio, extending from the Mis- sissippi and the St. Croix Ilivers, and from Lake Superior on the east to the Missouri 210 and the White-Earth Eivers on the west, a distance of more than 400 miles ; and from the Iowa line on the south to the i British borders on the north — also 400 ' miles apart. The entire area embraces 53,760,000 acres. Almost the whole of . this .vast region is a fine rolling prairie of > rich soil, a sandy loam adapted to the ' short summers of the climate, and which produces bounteously. The surface of • the country, excepting the Missouri plains, is interspersed with numerous beautiful i lakes of fresh water — all abounding in the finest fish, and their banks covered with a rich growth of woodland. The land is about equally divided between oak open- ' ings and prairies, the whole well watered by numerous navigable streams. In the eastern section, on the head- f waters of the Mississippi, Rum River, and ■ the St. Croix, are extensive pine and hard- wood forests, apparently inexhaustible for > centuries ; while from the mouth of Ci'ow- ' ivinc/ River, a tributary of the Mississippi, i an extensive forest of hard-wood timber, • fifty miles in width, extends southwest- ; erly into the country watered by the Blue- i^ Earth River, a tributary of the Minnesota / River, emptying into it 150 miles above « its mouth. The latter stream, rising near i Lac Traverse, flows southeasterly a dis- tance of 450 miles, and empties into the Mississippi at Fort SneUing, seven miles above St. Paul, and the same distance be- » low St. Anthony. This is one of the finest streams in the valley of the Mississippi, ^ and the country through which it flows is i not excelled for salubrity of climate and \ fertility of soil by any pai't of the United States. In a good stage of water, steam- boats can ascend it almost to its source. A portage of three miles then connects it ■m [INNESOTA.] MINNESOTA. [Minnesota. ith Lac Traverse ; and the outlet of the itter, the Sioux Wood River, with the imous Red Rivci- of the North. This tream is navigable at all seasons for teamboats from Bois de Sioux (Sioux iity) to Pembina, on the British line, to lie Selkirk settlements, 100 miles beyond nd even to Lake Winnipeg. The trade if these extensive regions v/ill eventually eek a market, following down the Min- esota to the Mississippi at St. Paul, and hence to the States below. A railroad ionncction is already made, via St. Cloud ith the St. Paul and Pacific Railway to t. Paul, whence work is rapidly progress- on the extension to Winona. (See AILWATS.) The only interruption to the navigation f the Lower Mmnesota River in dry sca- 3ns is what are called the "Rapids," jrae 40 miles above its mouth. This is a idge of sandstone I'ock, extending across le stream, and will soon be removed. The Mississippi above St. Anthony is avigable in good stages of water for light- i-aught boats an almost indefinite dis- lince to the north, and packets have run ;gularly as far as the Sauk Rapids (80 liles), which, witli the Little Palls (40 liles beyond), are the main obstacles in a ivigation of over 400 miles from St. An- lony to the Falls of the Pokegama. The 'acijic Road being now in operation from Paul to St. Cloud, and rapidly pro- essing northward, travel will henceforth ek the land route. 8i. Croix Lahe and 'iver are navigable to the Falls, 60 miles ove the junction of the lake and Mis- ^sippi ; and the St. Louis River is navi- iible from Lake Superior 20 miles to ond du Lac. Numerous other streams ■e navigable for light-draught steamers id flat-boats from 50 to 100 miles, pene- ating into the interior to the pineries, id giving easy access into the country all directions. These are the Blue- arih, Rum, ElJc, Sauk, Crow, Crow- ing, Vermilion, and Cannon Rivers. On the northeastern border of the ter- tory is Lake Superior, with its valuable shei'ies and its shores abounding in in- tbaustible mines of copper, coal, iron, k3., besides affording the facility of that 1st inland sea for immigration and com- jerce. (See The Lake Region.) The Mississippi, taking its rise in Itasca Lake, in the northern portion of the State, flows by a devious course for some 800 miles through the eastern part, and below the mouth of the St. Croix forms the di- viding line between Minnesota and Wis- consin for some 200 miles more to the Iowa line. This mighty river gives the State the whole lower valley to the Gulf of Mexico for a perpetual market for its agricultural produce, lumber, and manu- factures. Various elevated ridges trav- erse the territory of Minnesota, though the State is far from being of a mountain- ous character. The plateau called the Coufeau des Prairies, or the Prairie Heights, is one of these singular terraces. It extends 200 miles, with a breadth vary- ing from 20 to 40 miles. The average elevation of this lofty plain is some 1,500 feet, and in some parts it rises nearly 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. In the north it is about 900 feet above the neighboring waters of Big-Stone Lake. There is another range of wooded heights, reaching 100 miles or more, called the " Coteau du Grand Bois." Then there a,re the " Hauteurs de Terre," highlands which extend some 300 miles. These last-mentioned ridges form the dividing line of the rivers, which flow to Hudson's Bay on one side and to the Mississippi and Lake Superior on the other. The Lakes of Minnesota., which are ver;^ numerous, form one of the most invit- ing and picturesque features of the State. They are found in every section, and are annually visited by large numbers of tourists and sportsmen. Sometimes they are little ponds a mile in circumference, and again sheets of water 40 or 50 miles in extent. Their shores are charmingly wooded, and frequently present fine pic- tures of cliff and headland. The waters are pure and transparent, and are filled with white-fish, trout, pike, pickerel, suck- er, perch, and other finny inhabitants. The largest of these lakes are the Minne- tonka, the Osakis or Spirit Lake, White Bear, Kandiyohi, Otter- tail, and Mille Lac. Lake Pepin, a beautiful expansion of the Mississippi, is in this region. On its east bank is the fumous Maiden's Roek, 400 feet high ; and near the northern end the La Grange Mountain rises in a bold headland, 230 feet above the water. (See Lake City.) Rainy Lake, Minnie-Waken 211 St. Paul.] SIIXNESOTA. [St. Paui. or Devil Lake, Red and Leach Lal-es, are all in this State. St. I"aiil. — Hotels, the Inter na- tional, the Merchants' ; both spacious and elegant establishments. The Glohe is conducted on the European plan. EouTES. — From Chicago, via the KortJi- western And Jlihcaukee and St. Paul Rail- ways to the Mississippi, at La Crosse; thence bv steamer to Winona ; and thence by Wiyiona and St. Refer and JFinnesofa Central Railwai/s, via Owatonna, to St. Paul : or the Chicago and St. Paid Rail- vxnj, from Chicago to Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi ; thence by steamer in sum- mer and stages in winter. — Total dis- tance, 412 miles. St. Paul, the capital and chief city of Minnesota, and the commercial metropolis of the extreme Northwest, is pleasantly situated on the east bank of the Missis- sippi, 2,116 miles north of Xew Orleans, and 798 above St. Louis. It occupies a picturesque and commanding position upon what was formerly a bluff 70 feet high, but which the rapidly increasing demands of travel and traffic have accom- modated to a row of terraces or benches, on which a large portion of the business of the city is now carried on. St. Paul is one of the oldest settle- ments in the State. Eather Hennepin visited it in 1680. He was followed by Carver, who made a treaty with the Da- kotah Indians in 1766. Carver''s Cave, under Dayton's BlufF, where this treaty is said to have been made, forms one of the "sights " of the place. Immiuijaska, or " White Rock," the name by which the site of the town was known to the Indians, was doubtless given to it on account of its location on a high bluff of white sandstone which then formed a prominent landmark from the river. The first actual settlement was made in 1838, by Parraut, a Canadian. Father Gaultier, a Catholic missionary, built a log chapel near the edge of the bluif in 1840, which he named St. Paul, by which appellation the settlement then became "known. The singular and some- what unworthy name of " Pig's Eye " was given it in 1848, but shortly af- ter changed. Upon the organization of the Territory (1849) the capital was located at St. Paul, since which time 212 the place has grown and improved rap- idlv. The town was incorporated in 1849, and the city of St. Paul, March 4 1854. It has a front on the river of bo tween three and four miles, and embraces an area of 3,200 acres. The streets laid out and partially built upon number over 200. At the organization of the territory, in 1849, the white inhabitants of the place numbered 50 ; in 1860, the popu- lation had increased to 10,277, and in 1865 to 15,107. The city, considering the natural diffi- culties to be overcome in jDrepariug the site, is regularly laid out and well built; the abundance of excellent limestone and building material in the vicinity contrib- uting largely to its substantial and handsome appearance. It is divided into five wards, is lighted with gas, and con- tains a population estimated (1867) at 17,500. Among the prominent public buildings, the State-Rouse, from its conspicuous loccde, will attract the stranger's atten- tion. It is a brick edifice, 140 feet long by 53 wide, and surmounted by a dome. The Keio Opera-House is a commodious brick building, stuccoed, and capable of seating 2,000 persoiis. The Slate Arsenal is on St. Peter Street, near Eighth. The Cathedral of St. Paid, erected in 1854, is centrally located at the corner of St. Peter and Sixth Streets. There are nine- teen other church edifices, a majority of which are of recent construction. Among the educational and literary institutions, the most noteworthy is the HiMorkal Society which occupies rooms in Inger- sol's Hall, at the intersection of Waba- shaw and Third Streets. It was incor- porated in 1S49, and has a library of several thousand volumes. The Athe- ncemn is at the corner of Exchange and Pine Streets. Besides these, there are fifteen colleges, and male and female schools, and eight public halls, concert, and assembly rooms. Many of the views in the vicinity of St. Paul are very beau- tiful, and they have been faithfully pho- tographed by Whitney and Martin, whose galleries, on Third Street, are well worthy a visit. The vicinity of St. Paul has many pleasant walks and drives. The Citjf Park in fi.-ont of the City Hall, thv- AXTHOXT.] MINNESOTA. [The Falls of St. Axthoxt irk Place grounds on Summit Avenue fd the bluff tops between the upper ;d lower towns, including iJfv^oiCs Iti^and Carvers Cave, all command ^e views. jAmong the drives, those to Lake 'iHo, Oaklayid Cemetery, Minnehaha ills, and the Falls of St. Anthony are e most attractive and most popular. ' Jakland " is one mile and a half from e city, and embraces about 200 acres ' land, exclusive of the Episcopal Ceme- •', which adjoius it. Bej'ond Lake .0 are White Bear Lake, Bass Lake, numerous other choice waters, ; ounding in fish. [Fountain Cave is a remarkable spot two three miles above St. Paul. A pas- ;e-wav, 25 feet high, and nearly as ie, leads into a cavera of white sand- whieh has been penetrated for )00 feet ; first by a gallery 150 feet in jigth and 20 feet broad, and afterward t'ough narrow passes. A rivulet fol- vfs the course of this cave. 'in. favorable weather one of the most (pightful drives in the neighborhood of Paul is that to St. Anthony and Mia- ipolis, returning by the Falls (Mimie- 'ja) and Fort Snelling. The excursion will occupy the whole or sater portion of the day, affording iple opportunity to see these towns and ^ the points of interest by the way. A i)re expeditious and cheaper, but not so !asant a route, is that by the Si. Paul d Pacific Railway to St. Anthony (10 les), thence by stage to Minneapolis (1 le), thence by Minnesota Central Rail- y to Minnehaha (5 miles), thence to rt Snelling (2 miles), thence to Mendota ^miles), pnd thence to St. Paul (6 miles). 1!$t. .Autkony. — St. Anthony is a riving town on the left bank of the ssissippi, at the famous Falls of St. ythony, 10 miles above St. Paul. The "ilage is situated upon a lofty terrace {erlooking the falls. It was incorpo- ied in 1855 and contains 3,500 inhabi- TQts. Its position at the head of navi- ition on the Father of Waters, below je falls, is of immense commercial eon- lleration, and the falls afford incalcuk- fe water-power for manufactories. The ■ate University, and the Winsloio HoK.ie ililing, now used for the purposes of a Hygienic "Water Cure, are seen in ap- proaching or entering the town. It is connected with Minneapolis by a suspen- sion bridge 620 feet in lensrth, erected in 1855. Tlie Falls of St. Amtlioaj-, the principal attraction hereabouts, can be seen with about equal advantage from either shore. The fall is 18 feet perpen- dicular with a rapid descent of 50 feet within a distance of one mile. The river at this point is divided by an island (Ni- collet), as at Niagara, where it rushes over a bold and broad ledge of lime- stone. A friend visiting these falls in 1856 wrote : " I know not how other men feel when standing there, nor how men will feel a century hence, when standing there — then, not in the west, but almost in the centre of our great nation. But when I stood there, and reflected on the distance beeween that and the place of my birth and my home ; on the prairies over which I had passed ; and the stream — the ' Father of Kivers ' — up which I had sailed some 500 miles, into a new and unsettled land — where the children of the forest still live and roam — I had views of the greatness of my country, such as I have never had in the crowded capitals and smiling villages of the East. Far in the distance did they then seem to be, and there came over the soul the idea of greatness and vastness, which no figures, no description, had ever conveyed to my mind. To an inexperienced traveller, too, how straixge is the appearance of ail that land! Those boundless prairies seem as if they had been cleared by the patient labor of another race of men, re- moving all the forests, and roots, and stumps, and brambles, and smoothing them down as if with mighty rollers, and sowing them with grass and flowers : a race which then passed away, having built no houses of their own, and made no fences, and set out no trees, and estab- lished no landmarks, to lay the founda- tion of any future claim. The mounds, which you here and there see, look, indeed, as if a portion of them had died and had been buried there ; but those mounds and those boundless fields had been forsaken together. Ton ascend the Mississippi amid scenery unsurpassed in beauty prob- 213 Minneapolis.] MINNESOTA. [Fort Snellino. ably in the world. You sec the waters making their way along an inters'ale of from two to four miles in width, between bluffs of from 100 to 500 feet in height. Now the river makes its way along the eastern i-ange of bluffs, and now the western, and now in the centre, and now it divides itself into numerous channels, forrain/.; thousands of beautiful islands, covered with long grass ready for the scythe of the mower. Those bluffs, rounded with taste and skill, such as could be imitated by no art of man, and set out with trees here and there, grace- fully arranged like orchards, seem to hare been sown with grain to the summit, and are clothed with beautiful green. You look out instinctively for the house and barn ; for flocks and herds ; for men, and women, and children ; but they are not there. A race that is gone seems to have cultivated those fields, and then to have silently disappeared — leaving them for the first man that should come from the older parts of our own country, or from foreign lands, to take possession of them. It is only by a process of reflec- tion that you are convinced that it is not so. But it is not the woi'k of man. It is God who has done it, when there was no man there save the wandering savage, alike ignorant and unconcerned as to the design of the great processes in the land where he roamed — God who did all this, that He might prepai-e it for the abode of a civilized and Christian people." The scene even now (1866) is not much changed. To be sure, there is a busy settlement at and around St. Anthony. The whirring sound of the saw-mill and the " busy hum of industry " are heard, but still it is natiu-e and nature alone that impresses and possesses you. Nicollet Island hes between the two villages, .and affords, by means of a bridge at this point, some pleasant rambles. The larger fall is on the western side of the island. It is 310 yards in width. It is estimated that about seventy-five mil- lion feet of lumber are annually made at these fills. MiMBiejapolis, the capital of Hen- nepin County, and one of the most popu- lous and flourishing points in the State, is situated on the west bank of the Mis- sissippi in full view of the falls and the 214 town of St. Anthony. It is the northern terminus of the Minnesota Cmtral Hail- way and has immediate connection with St. Paul,. Winona, Mendota, and all other important towns in the State. Tlie town Is well built and contains several commo- dious buildings, among which the Coiirl- J-Iouse, the various mills, and the two lead- ing hotels, the Nicollet House, and First National Hotel, are the most prominent. The Music Hall, Athenceum (Post-Office), and Harrison Hall are also among the princii^al buildings. Like its neighbor, St. Anthony, Minneapolis derives much of its prosperity from the adjacent falls. The saw and grist mills are numerous and extensive. A short distance south of the town is an enclosure of 75 acres which is used as a Driving Park. Silver Cascade and Bridal Veil Falls are reached in an easy ride from Minneapolis. Lakes Harriet and Calhoun afford de- lightful drives and sport. Lake Minnt- tonka is 12 miles westward The village of Excelsior, on the south side of the lake, 18 miles from Minneapolis and 27 miles from St. Paul, is a pleasant sum- mer resort. Blifiaiaelaalaa, Falls — isometimes but erroneously called Brown's Falls — is a beautiful cascade located between four and five miles from Minneapolis on the direct road to Fort Snelling and Men- dota. They are the outlet of several small lakes, and have a perpendicular de- scent of 5*7 feet. Eefreshments may be obtained during the season at a house a few rods below the falls. Two miles from this lovely fall stands Fort Suelhng. S^oi't SiEeMiMg'j 6 miles from St. Paul, at the confluence of the Minnesota or St. Peter and Mississippi Elvers, on the west side of the latter river, should not be omitted by the stranger in making liis tour in this locahty. For half a cen- tury it has been known far and wide for the prominence and beauty of its situa- tion. On the 23d of September, 1805, Lieutenant Z. M. Pike held a conference with the Sioux Indians on the island at the confluence of the Mississippi and Min- nesota Eivers, which now bears his name, and which has since become famous as an Indian treaty-ground. The corner-stone of the present fort, which was then known Mendota.] MINNESOTA. [The Sioux Kapids. as Fort St. Anthony, was laid September 10, 1820, and so far completed as to be oc- cupied by troops in 1822'. It was visited by General Scott in 1824, and the name changed to Fort Snelling in compliment to Colonel Josiah Snelling, who command- ed the post and under whoso supervision it was constructed. The reservation em- braces 10,000 acres. Colonel Alexander is the present commandant at the fort. General Terry, the hero of Fort Fisher, has lately been ordered to the command iof this department, with headquarters at Fort Snelling. The buildings of the gar- rison are upon a high bluft', probably 200 feet above the level of the water in the rivers. This bluff extends to the north and west in a gently undulating and very fertile prairie, interspersed here and there with groves of heavy timber. Mendota, which lies about half a mile below the mouth of the Minnesota and 2 niles by rail from Fort Snelling was for- nerly a trading-post of the American Fur Company, but is now mainly important to ;he traveller as a jjoint of convergence md radiation for the several railway lines eading to and from St. Paul, Minneapolis, md Winona. Until within a few years it as included in the military reserve of brt Snelling. It has not attained that egree of prosperity so remarkable in the illages of St. Paul and Minneapolis, and hich its far more favorable position ight justly have secured for it. The „ icinity commands some fine views. From ^ilot Knob, which lies back of Mendota, a iew may be obtained of the surrounding bountry as far as the eye can reach, af- fording to the spectator a sight of one of the most charming natural pictures to be Found in this State, so justly celebrated for benic beauty. The view embraces within k circle of eight or nine miles, a grand fepectacle of rolling prairie, extended plain ind groves, the valley of the Minnesota |\'ith its meandering stream, a bird's-eye 'iew of Fort Snelling, Lake Harriet in he distance — the town of St. Anthony iust visible through the nooks of the btcrvening groves — and St. Paul, looking ike a city set upon a hill, its buildingd nd spires distinctly visible, and present- Jig in appearance the distant view of a iity containing a population of a hundred housand human beings. The St. Croix Falls, or Rapids, are in the St. Croix River, 54 miles from its mouth. The St. Croix continues the boundary line between Wisconsin and Minnesota, in the upper half of the State, formed below by the waters of the Mississippi. The falls in the St, Croix have a descent of 50 feet in 300 yards. The perpendicular walls of trap rock, be- tween which the waters make their bois- terous way, present a scene of remark- ably picturesque interest. This wild pass is about half a mile below the Rapids. It is called the Dalles of the St. Croix; Lake St. Croix, an expansion of the river, 36 miles in length, which opens out shortly after leaving the Mississippi, is a beautiful sheet of water. Steamers run up the St. Croix Lake and River to the falls. The Sioux JRapids, in the Sioux River, form another striking feature in the va- ried landscape of this region. The pass is through a grand quartz formation. The descent of the waters is 100 feet in 400 yards. There are three perpendicular falls of from 10 to 20 feet. The Ihlls of the St. Louis River are a series of rapids extending 1 6 miles, the waters making, in that distance, a descent of 320 feet. These cataracts terminate about 20 miles from the mouth of the river. In our enumeration of the landscape features and attractions of Minnesota, we have included only a few of the lead- ing and most accessible scenes. The sportsman here will find plenty to do, whether it be with his gun in the woods, or with his line by the marge of the grace- ful waters. Immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, and other noble deni- zens of the forest, still roam over the western plains, and the moose and the grizzly bear, the otter and the wolf, may all yet be found in the northern and north- western sections of the State. After the traveller has spent a few days in St. Paul and its vicinity, arid still feels disposed to lengthen his stay in Minnesota, he will find both pleasure and profit in visiting the towns along the Pacific route from St. Anthony northward, pushing his explorations into the Selkirk Settlement and British America. For the giiidance of such as propose making the trip, we 215 St. Cloud.] MINNESOTA. [Shakopee. append the names and locations of such points on the route as through necessity or choice he may sojourn at. HEanoiniu, the capital of the coun- ty of the same name, is a small village on the east bank of the Mississippi, 17 miles north of St. Paul. Population, 700. Anoka, (25 miles), the coui.ty seat of Anoka County, is situated at the mouth of Mille Lac (Rum River), at its conflu- ence with the Mississippi. It was siir- veyed in 1854 and contains a hotel, three churches, several stores, and about 1,200 inhabitants. St. Cloud. (74 miles), on the west side of the Mississippi, at the foot of Sauk Rapids, is the present (1866) northern terminus of the Si. Paul and Pacific Railway, and a thriving place of 1,-500 inhabitants. A railway is projected from St. Cloud to Superior City, 120 miles. There is a good hotel (Fletcher House), and several fine buildings. From St. Cloud the adventurous trav- eller may pursue his journey 200 miles to the Red River, or still farther to Fort Garry, in British America. The writer has made the distance in mid-winter in moccasins and snow-shoes, in company with the drivers of the Hudson Bay Com- pany's carts, and enjoyed it heartily. Two miles north of St. Cloud lies the village of Sauk Rapids. The river here falls 15 feet in a distance of half a mile, and furnishes a valuable watei'-power. The Mississippi above the rapids flows through a level country, interspersed with timber, as far' as Crow Wing. Watab and Lillle Falls are as yet sraah places lying on the great river between St. Cloud and Crow Wing. Cx'0-»T liViiig:, on the east bank of the Mississippi River, and opposite the mouth of Crow-Wing River, is an impor- tant Indian trading-post, and prospective- ly a place of considerable importance, in connection with the Pacific Railway which will eventually be extended northward to Pembina. It is 120 miles from St. Paul, and can be reached, with the aid of the I'ailway to St. Cloud, in two days and a half. The Chippewa Agency is on Crow- Wing River, 23 miles west of the Missis- sippi. Here the annual payments are made in October. In favorable weather this affords a pleasant detour from the 216 line of travel to Pembina and the Selkirk Settlement. Otter-Tall Lake and the adjacent waters' lie about two days' jour- ney northwest of the Agency, and offer great attractions to sportsmen. A recent writer describes them as being of the purest water, and abounding in delicious fish of different kinds. " The principal game left is wild fowl, among which may be named as most plenty the prairie chicken, grouse, partridges, ducks, and wild geese. Deer, elk, bear, foxes, bad- gers, and other fur-bearing animals, here- tofore numerous, are now scarce, being nearly exterminated by the Indians, who are expert huntsmen. The healthy influ- ence of this section of the country is un- rivalled, it being a luxury to breathe the pure air of this region. Buffalo and otiier large game may be found west of Red River, affording wholesome food, while wheat and vegetables are raised in great abundance wherever settlements have been made." The entire trip from St. Paul to Red Lake and River, via St. Cloud, Crow Wing, the Chippewa Agency, and Otter-Tail Lake, and return, might be made very comfortably in from four to six weeks. The best season in which to make the trip is during the months of September and October, though it might be made later without serious personal discomfort. (See Lake Region.) XSie Minnesota, Valley. — (See Minnesota River.) — Tourists desir- ous to see this lovely valley will take the Valley Railway at St. Paul or Mendota, visiting the different towns through which it passes. Nicollet and Hamilton are stations on this road — the former 11, the latter 18 miles from St. Paul. Slialfopee, the capital of Scott County, is pleasantly situated on the south bank of the river (Minnesota), 28 miles by railway and 32 by boat from St. Paul. It occupies the site of an Indian village, named after the chief who inhab- ited it, and was laid out by Thomas' Holmes in 1852. The Si. Paul House is the leading hotel. Cliiislfa. and Carver (32 miles) are growing towns, the former situated on the north, the latter on the south bank of the Minnesota River. The Moravian Academy at Chaska, established in 1864, is a flourishing institution. Carver is at MM ?ELLE PlAINE.] MINNESOTA. [Lake City. K he head of navigation during the season f low water, and merchandise is here ransshipped in considerable quantities. ISclle l^laiiie (4*7 miles) was laid ut in 1854, andnow contains about 1,000 ihabitants. It is the present terminus f the Valleif Railway. It is 49 miles by teamboat from St. Paul. Henderson ,nd Le Seicr, the county seats of Sibley nd Le Seur Coimties, are on the line of ae ilinnesoia Valley road, between ;elle Plaine and Mankato. The trade of lese points is as yet conducted by river iUring the season of navigation. The istance from St. Paul by river is 80 and p miles respectively. St. I*eter, the capital of Nicollet ounty, is advantageously situated on the innesota River, 118 miles from St. Paul, is the proposed terminus of the Wincna id St. Peter Itailway, at present oper- ed to Wautonna. Distance from Wino- 150 miles. j i9£aiika.to, the county seat of Blue- krth County, is at the head of permanent lavigation in the Minnesota or St. Peter iver, 148 miles from its mouth. It is in ie midst of a fertile country, and must '^entually become a place of considerable iportance. Population 3,000. New Ulm. is a flourishing village on le Minnesota Eiver, 55 miles above Man- ito. It was laid out in 1856, and was e scene of the Indian massacre, Au- ist 19, 18(52. It now contains 1,000 in- ibitauts, mostly Germans. I l<^ai'ii>a,uit, the capital of Rice punty, situated at the confluence of the imion and Straight Rivers, and on the tinnesota Central Railway^ is one of the jost populous and thriving interior towns I the State. In 1853 it was the site of Jexander Faribault's trading-post. Since ^5'7 its growth has been rapid, and !e present population is estimated at boo. The State Asylum iov the deaf id dumb, and an Episcopalian College, ,6 located here. The National and the urron House are the leading hotels. iHisstiugs^ the county town of Da- tah County, is situated on the west bank tlic Mississippi River, three miles above e moutli of Lake St. Croix. It lies lon a bed of limestone, which furnishes r.ndaut building material. It was laid t in 1853, and now contains a popula- 10 •tion of between 3,000 and 4,000. It is the seat of the Minnesota Central Uni- versity. The Falls of the Vermilion River, south of the town, are 60 feet high, and well worthy a visit. Still"%va.ter. — St. Croix House. — Stillwater, in Washington Coimty, upon the west bank of Lake St. Croix, 20 miles from St. Paul, was first settled in 1843, and is rapidly becoming a populous and important place. Lai-ge steamers ply here. This is the point froni which to visit the Lake and Falls of the St. Croix. Taylor's Falls, the county seat of Chisago County, is on the west bank of St. Croix River, just below the Falls of St. Croix. A bridge connects the village with the Wisconsin shore. The Cascade House is the leading hotel. tialie City is pleasantly situated on the west shore of Lake Pepin, of which, and the villages of Pepin, Stockholm, and Maiden Rock, on the opposite or Wiscon- sin shore, it commands a fine view. It occupies the site of Fort Per rot, the first French military establishment in this re- gion, ei'ected in 1689. The town was surveyed and laid out in May, 1856. The Sugar-Loaf Peak and 3Iaiden Rock or Zover^s Leap should be visited. The lake aifords fine fishing. The Mlsworth and Lyon House are the leading hotels. ISed. Irving', the county town of Goodhue County, is on the right bank of the Mississippi, just below the mouth of Cannon River, and 6 miles north of Lake Pepin. Large amounts of grain are shipped here. It is on the proposed line of the St. Paul and Pacific Railway to Winona. It is the seat of Hamlin Uni- versity, and contains several church edi- fices and hotels. Population 2,600. "Waljaslaa-w, the county seat of Wabashaw County, is on the southwest bank of the MississipjDi, about opposite the mouth of the Chippewa River, 4 miles below Lake Pepin. It is 91 miles by water from St. Paul, and about 15 by land. The Court-House and one of the churches are fine edifices. Population, 2,500. Hird^s Hotel. ©^vatoMBia, the capital of Steele County, is situated on .the east side of Straight River, at the junction of the Wi- nona and St. Peter and Minnesota Central Railways. It is 15 miles south of Fari- 217 Rochester.] MINNESOTA. [Winona. bault, and 40 miles west of Rochester.' Population, 1,200. EureJca House. Mocliestcr, the capital of Olmsted Comity, is situated on the west bank of the Zurabro River, in the midst of a rich agricultural section, on the line of the Winona and Si. Peter Bail way, 40 miles west of the former town. The first set- tlements were made in 1854, near Cascade Creek. It is the most important wheat shipping station on the line of road west of Winona, and one of the most flourish- ing interior towns in the State. It con- tains a new Court-House, five church edi- fices, two newspaper offices {Republican and Post), and two good hotels, the Amer- ican and Stevens Houses. Population, 4,500. Ke«l^vood. Falls, in the County of Redwood, 79 miles west of St. Peter, will eventually attract tourists. The town is in its infancy, containing about 300 inhabitants. The fall is 30 feet perpendicular, over a solid granite ledge. The prairies in this neighborhood are very extensive, and herds of buffalo ai-e often seen. Hunting parties frequently meet here for the chase. CaBiMom Fa;lls are in Goodhue County. The village is situated at the confluence of the Big and Little Cannon Rivers. It was laid out in 1856, and has a fine water-power. 218 Chisago Lake and Green Lake afford fine fishing. Tliey are in Chisago County, 38 miles northeast of St. Paul, and 14 from Taylor's Falls. Chisago Citif is pleasantly situated between the two lakes, and contains a good hotel. The neigh- borhood of Columbus, in Onoka County, abounds in game, and the lakes with fish. ■^^iiBLoiaa, the capital of Winona County, and one of the most flourishing cities of the State, is pleasantly situated on a beautiful prairie, on the west bank of the Mississippi River, 30 miles north of La Crosse, and 105 miles by land below St. Paul. With the latter cities it has daily communication by the Wiriona and St. Peter and Minnesota Central Rail- ways, via Owatonna. The Winona branch of the St. Paul and Pacific Raihcay will be completed to this point in 1868. The first white settlement was made here in 1851, and was laid out as a town in the following year. In 1857 it was chartered as a city. It is the largest wheat market in the State, the receipts and shipments for 1865 amounting to three millions of bushels. It contains a spacious court- house and twelve church-edifices. The: State Normal School has a fine build- ing. The High School is also a spacious edifice, recently erected. Population (esti- 1 mated), 6,000. Huff's Hotel, on Third i Street, has excellent accommodation. ' m ViSCONSIN.] WISCONSIN. ["Wisconsin. WISCOKSIX. Wisconsin was formed into a Territory 1836, and came into the Union as late ; 1848, though the country was visited, I was all the wilderness of which it was len a part, by the French missionaries .'0 centuries ago. Its growth has been, |id continues to he, unexampled any- liere, excepting in the surrounding new ates and Territories. It is bounded on the north by Minne- ta, part of Michigan, and Lake Supe- on the east by Lake Michigan ; on e south by Illinois, and on the west by wa and Minnesota. It is 285 miles and 250 broad, and embraces an lea of thirty-four and a half millions of res. The topographical aspect of Wisconsin very similar to that of other portions the Northwest section of the Union, eventing, for the most part, grand etches of elevated prnirie-land, some- nes 1,000 feet higher than the level of the ;. Though there are no mountains in this ■ate, there are the characteristic pltiteau Ilges of the latitude, formed by depres- :')ns, which drain the waters, and afford (Is for the rivers and lakes. The de- .^nt of the land toward Lake SujDerior ivery sudden, and the streams are full oyg-asi is at the entrance of Sheboygan River into Lake Micliigan, 62 miles north of Milwaukee. Steamboats up and down the lake call here. Manitowoc is also upon Lake Michigan, 30 miles above Sheboygan, and 93 miles north of Milwaukee. l^aciue. — Hotel, Congress Hall. Racine is a beautiful city, situated on the west shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Root River, 23 miles soutli by east of Milwaukee, and 02 north of Chi- cago. It is the second city of the State in population and commerce, and has one of the best harbors on the lake, formed by the mouth of the river, which admits vessels drawing over 12 feet of water. It was settled in 1835 and incorporated in 1848. The Racine and Mississipjn Rail- way connects the city with the Mississip- pi River at Savanna, 111. Population, 11,000. The public schools are among the best in the State. Over $80,000 have been expended by the citizens in the con- struction of a harbor, $30,000 for school buildings, and $350,000 for railways. Platteville and Mineral Point are grow- ing places in the heart of the lead region of Southwestern Wisconsin and North- western Illinois. The former is in Grant, the latter in Iowa County. (For routes, see Galena.) A branch of the Illinois Central from Warren leads to Mineral Point. i&reem Bay. — On leaving the City i of Green Bay in one of the steamers of . the Green Bay Transit Company for i Escanaba, 100 miles, the tourist passes i through one of the most beautiful sheets * of water, connecting with Lake Michigan . on the north. The harbor of Green Bay is formed by the Fox or Neenah River, ivhich here en- i ters from the south, the outward channel i being crooked and circuitous until the n light-house, 1 miles distant, is passed, i when the bay viidens, and a large expanse ; of water is presented to view. Oconto, 30 miles north of Gi'een Bay, ; having daily communication by steam- i boat, is a flourishing lumbering village : lying on the west side of the bay, near the mouth of a river of the same name. EDAK RiVEK.] WISCONSIN. [ESCANABA. Little Sturgeon Point (40 miles) lies on le east shore of the bay. ' Sturgeon Bay is a deep indentation, [inning nearly across the neck of land hich separates Green Bay from Lake ichigan ; it is proposed to construct a lip canal to connect them. Jlcnomonee (58 miles) lies at- the mouth the river of the same name, which ;mis the dividing hne between the States Wisconsin and Michigan. This is a irge and flourishing lumbering village, hence are annually shipped large quan- Ities of lumber to Chicago and Eastern larkets. j Green Island (60 miles), nearly mid- ay between the termini of the boat ute, lies in the middle of the bay, where a light-house to guide the mariner. Hat Island and Straivherry Island are aall tracts of land passed on the east, !ar the main shore. Cliamheris Island (75 miles) is a large id fertile body of land, lying near the iddle of the bay, which is here about 20 lies wide. Forte des Morts {Death's Boor) is the trance into Lake Michigan, separating mainland from Washington Island, the north, which is attached to the ate of Michigan. To the east lie the oad waters of Lake Michigan. Cedar River (90 miles) enters from |e west, where is a lumbering establish- nt, the whole west shore of Green Bay oduciug a heavy growth of pine and ler kinds of timber. Leaving Cedar River the steamer's urse Ues for LilLle Bay de Noqvet, 30 |les distant, affoi-ding a view of the ters of Lake Michigan on the east, ile to the north lies Great Bay de quet, about 10 miles wide and 20 miles length. Pensaickee, Peslitigo, and other towns springing up on the west shore of Green Bay, where are to be found numer- ous large lumber establishments, situ- ated on the streams running into the bay. Escanaba is a new and promising town in Michigan, situated on the western shore of Little Bay de Noc, 120 miles north of the city of Green Bay, and is the southern terminus of the Peninsular Rail- road of Micliigan. This place, laid out in the spring of 1864, has a good and se- cure harbor, of easy access, with a suf- ficient depth of water for the largest class of vessels navigating the lakes. The docks erected by the railroad company are of a substantial and commodious char- acter, intended for the transshipment of iron and copper ore from the Lake Supe- rior mines, distant about 65 miles. The site of the town lies on Sand Point, where is a favorable view of the waters of Green Bay lying to the south, and Little Bay de Noc on the north. The streets are laid out at right angles, with ample public grounds adjoining the water- front. The future of this place is hard to predict, its growth being identified with the rich mineral deposits of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, bordering on Lake Superior. Good hotel accommodation. The Peninsular Railroad runs from the wliarf at Escanaba, through a new and wild section of country to Negaunee, 62 miles, there intersecting the Bay de No- quet and Marquette Railroad^ 13 miles above Marquette, forming a through line of travel. The Bay de Noquet and Marquette and the Marquette and Ontonagon Railroads form a connection at the iron mines, and now extend to Lake Michigommi, 40 miles from Marquette. This important road is rapidly extending to Ontonagon, 120 miles, also, to Portage Lake, thus connecting the iron and copper regions of Lake Su- perior. 225 Michigan.] MICHIGAN. [MlOUlQAM. i MICHIGAN Michigan, one of the more recently settled of the great States of the Forth- west, embraces two peninsulas, the lower or southern lying between Lake Michigan on the west and Lakes Huron, St. Clair, and Erie on the east ; and the northern, between Lake Superior on the north, and Lakes Michigan and Huron on the south. The northern peninsula is about 320 miles long and 130 in its greatest breadth, and the southern 238 miles from north to south and 200 from east to west. United- ly they embrace thirty-five and a half millions of acres, of which less than four millions are improved. The unique char- acter of the scenery of the upper penin- sula of Michigan, and the present easy means of access, pi-omise in the course of a few years to make this region one of the most popular summer resorts in the Union. Excepting in portions of its southern boundary, this State is every- where surrounded by the waters of the Great Lakes, insomuch that it has a coast of nearly 1,100 miles. Of this immense lake-coast, 350 miles belong to Lake Su- perior, as much more to Lake Michigan, 300 to Lake Huron, 40 to Lake Erie, and 30 to St. Clair. Besides these grand waters which encompass the State about like a girdle, there are many beautiful ponds scattered over the interior, and bearing thither the picturesque beauty of the shores. The southern peninsula is more interesting in an agricultural than in a pictorial point of view. It is in sur- face notably unvaried — a vast plain, un- dulating indeed, but not broken by any elevations worthy of mention. It has, however, peculiar features which will in- terest the traveller, in its great . prairie lauds and that special characteristic of 226 the Western landscape — the OaJc Ope^ ings — a species of natural park meagrely covered with trees. The shores, however, even of this part of Michigan, arc often picturesquely varied, with steep banks and bluffs, and shifting sand-hills, reach- ing, sometimes, a height of 200 feet or more. The romantic portion of the " Lake State " is in the upper peninsula, which is rich in all the features of rugged rocky coast, of the most fantastic and striking character, in beautiful streams, rapids, and cascades. Here, making a part of the scenery of Lake Superior (see the Lake Kegion), are the Wisconsin, or Porcupine Mountains, 2,000 feet in height^ and those strange huge castellated masses of sandstone, celebrated as the Pictured Rocks. The famous straits of Mackinaw unite the converging floods of Lakes Huron and Michigan at the extreme north- em apex of the lower peninsula, and the beautiful Sault de St. Marie conducts the wondering tourist from Lake Huron to Lake Superior on the north. The St. Mary separates the upper peninsula at its northeastern extremity from Canada. The Pictured Rocks are a.bout 60 miles west of this passage. Here white-fish and other finny game are caught in great quantities. The rivers of Michigan are chiefly small streams, but many of them, especially those in the mountain districts of the north, are replete with pleasant i subjects for the pencil of the artist. The history of this State has more > points of interest than we are apt to find i in this section of the Union, recording as i it does some memorable incidents of In- ■• dian adventure, and important exploits in the American and English War of 1812. The first settlements were made at De- Iailwats.] MICHIGAN. [Deteoit. I'oit and Mackinaw, toward the close of lie seventeenth century. After England ad dispossessed tlie French, there arose mong the Indian tribes the famous chief- lin Pontiac, who availed himself of the pportunity afforded by the outburst of le Revolution, to attempt the entire ex- ulsion of the white invaders of his au- stral lauds. The chief planned a general ttack upon all the English forts on the kes, massacred the garrison at Macki- aw, and laid siege, for some months, to etroit. In 1805, Michigan, which prior > that date formed part of the Northwest erritory, was formed into a separate ri'itory. From its contiguity to Canada, Michi- in was called early into the field in the ^ar of 1812. Detroit was surrendered I the enemy by General Hull, August )th, the fort at Mackinaw having already ;en captured. A number of American isoners of war were butchered by the idians at Frenchtown on the 22d of muary, 1813. The State suffered at is period many trials, until General arrison at length drove the British into mada, carrying the war into their own )untry. Detroit was not surrendered to e United States until 1*796. Michigan ,me into the Union as an independent ,ate in the year 1837, and has since pidly advanced in population, wealth, ^d production. The State is divided into J counties, and contains several hand- ime cities and towns ; among the most iportant are Detroit, Lansing, the capi- |l, Grand Rapids, Adrian, Kalamazoo, bn Arbor, Jackson, and Monroe. The jbpulation of tlie State in 1860 was [1:9,113, of whom upward of 3,000 were dians. Railways. — The Michigan Central \ailway extends 28-1 miles from Detroit Chicago. The Jackson, Laiising, and Saginaio lilwai/, 30 miles to Lansing. The Michigan SoiUhern, in connection ith the Northern Indiana Railway, trav- >^L'S the southern line of Michigan and :e upper line of Indiana, 244 miles from pledo to Chicago. The Detroit and Milwankee Railway flsses the State, 189 miles, from Detroit I Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, oppo- se Milwaukee. The Arnboy, Lansing, and Traverse Bay Railway, 28 miles from wosso to Lansing, the State capital. The Great Western (Canada.) Raihoay has its western terminus at Windsor, op- posite Detroit. The Grand Trunk Rail- way connects at Detroit with the Michi- gan Central, Detroit and Milwaiilcee, and Michigan Southern Railways. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rail- way, from Detroit south to Toledo, Ohio, 65 miles. The Jackson Branch of the Michigan Southern Railway, from Adrian north to Jackson, on the Michigan Central, 45 miles. The Monroe Branch, from Monroe to Adrian, 32 miles. DETKOIT. Hotels, the Russell House ; the Bid- die House ; the Michigan ExcJiange. Routes. — ^From New York. By the Hudson River or Harlem Railway to Albany, thence by the Centred Raihvay to Buffalo or Niagara Falls, or to Buffalo and Niagara by the New York and E7-ie Railway. (See these routes elsewhere.) From Buffalo or Niagara take the Great Western Raihvay (Canada), to Windsor, opposite Detroit. Total distance from New York, about 6*73 miles. Detroit may also be pleasantly reached from Buffalo or Dunkirk, via Cleveland, Sandusky City, and Toledo, Ohio, by the railways on the southern shore of Lake Erie, or by the Lake Erie steamers. From Chicago to Detroit, by the Michigan Centred or by the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana Railways ; distance by the former 284 miles, by the latter 309 miles. Pullman's sleeping-cars on night trains. Detroit is one of the great commercial depots of the West, and the chief city of Michigan. It is pleasantly situated upon the west side of the Detroit River, a link in the chain of waters which unite Lake Huron and Lake Erie. This strait, for such it is, gives the city its French name — clefroit. It is here about half a mile in width, and is charmingly dotted with beautiful islands. The city is distant 18 miles from the head of Lake Erie, and 8 miles from the outlet of Lake St. Clair. It 22*7 1 Lapsing.] MICHIGAN. [Grand Havkn, occupies a position equally advantageous for commerce and picturesque for travel, being directly in the way of the tide of travel and transportation from the Atlautic to the Mississippi, and great railways and steam- ers, with their freights, necessarily pay- ing it tribute. Detroit was founded by the French in 18*70. It was the capital of the State from 1836 until ]84'7, when it was removed to Lansing. The city embraces an area of about 10 square miles, laid out in wide streets and ave- nues, and lighted with gas. Jefferson and Woodward Avenues, and Congress Street, are fine tli or ough fares. The Campus Mariiics is its most attractive public square. There is a fine open area called the Grand Circus, toward which the avenues of that part of the city lying back of the river converge. The Old State- House is a noteworthy edifice, with its dome and its tall steeple overlooking the town and its environs, Lake St. Clair above, and the Canadian shores. The City Hall is a brick structure, with a fa9ade 100 feet in length. The city pos- sesses also a fine Custom-Tlouse, and other public edifices, aud many elegant private residences. Detroit has in late years become an ex- tensive manufacturing point. The copper and iron smelting-works above and below the city are worth visiting. Among the most noteworthy edifices are its churches, and its benevolent and cliaritable institutions. Of the latter, the Jndnstrial School, the Harper, and St. Mary's and Marine Hospitals, and the Orphan Asylum, are the best worth visit- ing. Lines of street cai'S afford ready communication with every part of the city aud suburbs. The residence of the late General Lewis Cass is among the objects of interest. Detroit has a large and growing trade with Lake Superior, and this is the best point from which to take steamer for the upper peninsula of Mich- igan, and the famous copper-mines of that region. Population, 63,000. Wind- sor, tlie terminus of the Grca.i Western (Canada) Railway, opposite Detroit, is reached by ferry. (For means of com- munication with other cities, see Rail- ways.) 1- a 11 s 1 Bi g .—Hotel, the Laiisine/ House. 228 Lansing, the capital of Michigan, is upon the Grand River, 110 miles north- west of Detroit. The Amboy, Lansing, and Traverse Bay Railway connects it with Owosso on the Detroit and Milviait- kee Railway (28 miles). Lansing became the seat of the State government in 1847, at which period it was almost a wilder- ness. The State-House is a spacious structure situated on an eminence over- looking Grand River. The population of the city is now about 4,000. Amu Arljor is a flourishing place of 9,000 inhabitants, upon the line of the Michigan Central Railway, 3*7 miles west of Detroit. It is the seat of the StaUh University, founded in IBS'/. This insti- tution is liberally endowed, and has about 800 students, and a library of 10,000 volumes. "STpsilamti.— Hotel, the Hawkins House. Ypsilanti, 30 miles west of Detroit, on the line of the Central Raihuay, is on the Huron River, and in the midst of a fine farming district. The State JSFormal School is a fine institution. It contains some important manufactories. Popula- tion, 3, 700. Moiii'oe City. — Hotel, Strong''s Hotel. Monroe City, one of the principal towns of Micliigan, and the capital of Monroe County, is upon the Raisin River, 2 miles from Lake Erie, and 41 miles be- low Detroit, and 24 miles uorth of Toledo by the Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rail- way. The Court-Hou.'ie is a fine stoue edifice, erected at a cost of $35,000. Large quantities of wheat are shipped hence. Monroe was settled by the French about 1776. CSs'saiad. Ma^^^eia, on Lake Michi- gan, is the W'cstern terminus of tlie De- troit and Milwaukee Railway. It is situ- ated on a fine site at the mouth of the Grand River, directly opposite the beauti- ful aud flourishiug city of Milwaukee. It has an excellent hai'bor formed by the! river and bays, extending some 131 miles, with a depth of water from 30: to 50 feet, sufficient for vessels of the! largest size. The entrance to "the harboi , is 650 feet wide. The distance froir Grand Haven to Milwaukee is 80 miles A line of transit steamers, fitted uj .. J'^ AND Rapids.] MICHIGAN. [Adrian. the most costly manner, with every jard for safety and comfort of pas- igers, plies twice daily between the 3 ports, in connection with the regu- trains over the Detroit and Milwau- and Milwaukee and St. Paid Rail- ys. Steamers up and down Lake 3bigan touch here. J"3acl4:son. is situated on Grand 'er, and at the intersection of the chigan Central and Jackson Branch the Michiffan Southern Railways, 76 es west of Detroit. The State Peni- ■iiary is well Avorthy a visit. About 3 hundred convicts are here employed mechanical labor. It has several fine irch edifices and a seminary for young (les. ffiraiatl ES.api«is, the capital of it County, and the second city of the te, is situated at the rapids of Grand Bier, 32 miles east of Grand Haven, and }.] miles west of Detroit. It is pleas- iily located on both banks of the river, a:' commands some fine views. It was -(led in 1833 and incorporated in 1850. T; river is 300 yards wide, and falls 18 feet within a mile, producing abundant water-power. Pleasant trips may be made by boat above the falls to Lyons, 50 miles, or below to the mouth of the river, where connection is made with the lake steamers. Population, 9,000. Acii-ia.!!, the county seat of Lena- wee County, lies on a branch of the Eaisin River at the intersection of the Micliigan Southern and the Monroe and Jackson Branches, 33 miles from Toledo, 32 miles from Monroe, 73 miles from Detroit, and 45 miles from Jackson. It has several large manufactories. Tile public buildings are commodious and substan- tial. Population, 7,000. Maiamiazoo, 143 miles west of Detroit and 141 east of Chicago, via the Central Raihvay, stands on the left bank of the Kalamazoo River. The College and State Insane Asylum are prominent edifices. Maa-slaall, 36 miles east of Kala- mazoo, is mainly interesting to the travel- ler on the Central road, as the dining station on the morning trains from Chica- go and Detroit. 229 Kansas.] KANSAS. [Kansas. KAI^TS AS Kansas, one of the new States west of the Mississippi, extends from 37° to 40" north latitude, in the same belt as Northern Kentucky and Virginia, and Southern Indiana and Illinois. It is 630 miles in its extreme length and 209 miles in its greatest width. It is bounded eastward by Missouri, northward by Ne- braska, westward by Colorado, and south- ward by New Mexico and Indian Terri- tory. It is divided into 45 counties, and embraces an area of 80,000 square miles. The capital, Topeka, is pleasantly situated on the south bank of the Kansas River. Its principal city is Leavenworth on the Missouri. The other chief towns are Law- rence, Atchison, Wyandotte, Fort Scott, and Manhattan. It was organized as a Territory, May 29, 1854, and admitted as a State, January 30, 1861. The popula- tion, which now amounts to nearly 180,000, is mainly distributed through the eastern portion of the State. The prevailing landscape features of Kansas are those of gently alternating ridges, or terrace and valley. The coun- try is a vast undulating plain from the eastern side to the base of the mountain ranges on the west. The face of the country is beautiful beyond comparison. The prairies, though broad and expansive, stretching away miles in many places, seem never lonely or wearisome, being gently undulating, or more abruptly rolling; and, at the ascent of each new roll of land, the trav- eller finds himself in the midst of new loveliness. There are also high bluffs, usually at some little distance from the rivers, running through the entire length of the country, while ravines run from them to the rivers. These are, at some 230 points, quite deep and difficult to cross, and, to a traveller unacquainted with the country, somewhat vexatious, especially where the prairie grass is as high as a person's head, while seated in a caniage.; There is little trouble, however, if travel- lers keep back from the water-course?,{ and near the high lands. These ravin^i; are, in many instances, pictures of beautyjt with tall, graceful ti-ees, cotton-woodyj black walnut, hickory, oak, elm, and lin-i! wood, standing near, while springs of pure cold water gush from the rock. The ; bluffs are a formation unknown, in forni and appearance, in anj' other j^ortion oi the West. At a little distance, a perso^ can scarcely realize that art had noi added her finishing touches to a worJ which nature had made singularly bean tiful. Many of the bluffs appear like thi cultivated groundf. about fine old res dences within the Eastern States, terrac rising above terrace, with great regularitji while others look like forts in the dii tance. In the eastern part of the Stat most of the timber is upon the rivers an creeks ; though there are in some plaOi most delightful spots, high hills, crownn with a heavy growth of trees, and ded vales, M'here rippling waters gush amidi dense shade of flowering shrul^bery. Higher than the bluffs are natat: mounds, which also have about them-fc look of art. They rise to such a heightr to be seen at a great distance, and add Jl culiar beauty to the whole appearance the country. From the summit of these t prospect is almost unlimited in extet and unrivalled in beauty. The prair for miles, with its gentle undulatio' lies before the eye. Rivers ghstening the sunlight, flow on between bai ^ jiNSAa] KANSAS. [EOUTES. iwned with tall trees ; beyond these, ler high points arise. Trees scattered re and there, like old orchards, and tie in large numbers are grazing upon 1 3 hill-side and in the valleys, giving to a the look of cultivation and home-life. lis, indeed, difficult to realize that for tjusands of years this country has been f waste, uncultivated and sohtary, and tit but a few years have elapsed since tj white settler has sought here for a Irae. The climate differs materially from that (fthe same latitude farther east. With clear, dry atmosphere, and gentle, l|»lth-giving breezes, it is favorable to -door pursuits and pleasures. The uliar clearness of the atmosphere can- be imagined by a non-resident. For es here a person can clearly distin- sb objects which at the same distance any other part of this country he could see at all. Che summers are long, and winters Bprt. The winters are usually very mild 1 open, with little snow — none falling the night, save what the morrow's sun 1 quickly cause to disappear. So mild they that the cattle of the Indians, hose of the settlers in Western Mis- ri, feed the entire year in the prairies river-bottoms. The Indians say that c in about seven years Kansas sees a 1 and severe winter, with snows of a It in depth. Two weeks of cold weather talleJ a severe winter. Then the spring- he weather comes in February; the th begins to grow warm, and her fer- t| bosom ready to receive the care of husbandman. 6l few years ago, the only white set- tljiients in Kansas as in Nebraska, were t| United States mihtary stations, but ny pleasant cities and towns are spring- iil up over all the land. hiwuee, on the north branch of the KJisas, 12 miles west of the confluence jic Big Blue River, was designated as tl place of meeting of the first Legisla- h'>. July 2, 1855. It was adjourned on ii of July, without the sanction of Hjvernor, to the Shawnee mission, a(iL' Westport. touTES. — The most direct routes by "■' li to reach Kansas from the East le JPaciJic and the North Missouri Railways^ from St. Louis ; and the Chica- go, Burlington, and Qaincy, and Hannibal and St. Joseph Railways, from Chicago. Connections are made on these routes at Leavenworth and Wyandotte by the Union Pacific (M D.) Railway with Lawrence, Topeka, Manhattan, Fort Riley, and Junction City. The steam- boat route from St. Louis by the Mis- souri River to Leavenworth (distance 495 miles) usually occupies three days. A trip over the Union Pacific Road, from Leavenworth or Wyandotte westward to Junction City, or up the Missouri to the several towns on that river, which can be accomplished comfortably in from one to two weeks, will afford the visitor an opportunity to see all the most im- portant towns and objects of interest in the State, though months may be prof- itably and pleasantly spent in travelling through the interior. Names of places and distances on the Missouri River, between St. Louis and Leavenworth : To mouth of Missouri River, 20 miles ; St. Charles, Mo., 45 ; Augusta, Mo., 76; South Point, Mo., 82; Wash- ington, Mo., 84; Miller's Landing, Mo., 98 ; Hermann, Mo., 120 ; Portland, Mo., 141; St. Aubert, Mo., 151; Jefferson City, Mo., 174 ; Providence, Mo., 207 ; Rocheport, Mo., 220 ; Boonville, Mo., 232; Arrow Rock, Mo., 247; Glasgow, Mo., 264; Cambridge, Mo., 273; Bruns- wick, Mo., 299 ; Miami, Mo., 314 ; Berlin, Mo., 360 ; Lexington, Mo., 370 ; Welling- ton, Mo., 378 ; Camden, Mo., 888 ; Sibley, Mo., 406; Richfield, Mo., 420; Liberty, Mo., 435 ; Kansas City, Mo., 456 ; Park- ville. Mo., 471. Rivers. — The Kansas River, sometimes pronounced " Kaw," the largest stream of this region, excepting the Missouri, which washes its northeastern boundary, is form- ed by the Republican and the Smoky Hill Forks, which rise in the Rocky Mountains, and unite their waters at Fort Riley. The length of the Kansas, including its branches is nearly 1,000 miles. Its course is through a productive valley re- gion or plain, covered ^vith forest-trees, and varied here and there with piclnr- esque bluffs and hills. The Kansas River is a tributary of the Missouri, and steam- boats ascend, in good stages of water, from its mouth, 120 miles to Fort Riley. 231 K \N&AS CriY.] KANSAS. [FOKT RlUCT. Tbe Arkjnsas Kirer has neaHj half ita course wnhin tbe K>rder5 of Kansas. Tbe th.v^ Hirfr rises south of the Kansas, floors neariy easrwar-J 5'>? miles tc tke^ Missouri, wMeh it eiiters len miles l>e!oa- Je3ers?n CiiT. Kaa^^asi Citj"* — the cwmtj seat cf Jacks .-^n Countv, and one of the most imr-crrari T.Tsms on the riv^er — is well sJ:-i:ti on ihe ■west bank of the Mis- sruri. 4-56 miltS bv steamboat and 5S2 n::£es bj the Potri^^Rf Iijy from Si- Louis. It has immedate daily eonnec- jicm bj rail "with LejiTen'srorth. Latrrenee, Topeka, and all river and interior to'sras in Kansai^ It contains one or fwo sub- stantial public buildings, S ehnreiies. 4 banks, and several exrensire eommerc-ial ashl manuiactnrini: establishm ents. The hM^ aet-ommodation is poor, the houses, of whic-h there are fcnr, bans: smiD. and iE-kepi. P>pTilan--.n, S,C»00. ^ l^eaTeEiTvortb. Clxy. — ^Hoiel, Pfj t^t.-i" Ii:i:-<-:. LeaTenworth, the prin- cir=al e;-D:imr;"C-ij.l eitT of Rarsas. stands n>:n fhe •srest baiik of the ilissonri EiTer. abrnt midwaj between St. Joseji and Ksniis Ci:t. It has daHy eommnni- caiion bj railwaj with Chicago, St. Louis. and the principal cities of the Union; also resnlar sieanib.:«aT eommnnifation ■with aH^owns en the Mlss^^-r: Errer. It ec'niains several Sne church e'lincres, a mercaniile Hbisrv, theatre, and medical o r'le ce. Three (^ilv netvspapers ane pnb- ?b/iE Xfarats'j.'t^ OQe mile L - :iry, is worth visiting. Pop- -___;- :: izr cirris aboni ^vi^C^'O. LaTTTreiice, one of the most at- •m.d^r t:^^~s in Kansas, is pleasantly jlniTrd rn t";^ Sj^ii- Dank oi the Kansas J^-^:. i' ziiles fr:ni its month. The r" 7 -.- \^£. X>.) .Rji/K^j* gives daily ,;:-_i_i.:: .^ijn eastward with Leaven- - miles, and "Wyandatie (§9 r_ . — esTfraT'd with Topeka, Man- 1_ _ ._.?:" Piley. It was founded f_ -■- _ _ _ - r'ten twice devastated ": ^ ^ 7 I : ; :: . j.'ns a good hoteL seve^ su -s-aaoai ediaoes, aad" ^«mises to be r-- ■' tbe isadst^aest towns in the State. I . / -; _ ioox 2S2 Topeka, the capital of the State, is prerdly located on tbe st^th fide of U»o Kattsas River, and on the Union Poo^ {£. D.) Jiailic\iy, SO mUes west of Iaw- rence, and 6S miles west of Wy-r.ior.c. The streets are wide and well the city presents a substantial . ing appearance. The neighborn . ; x Uii many pleasant drives. The populaiioii already n^ombers between S,0>OO aad -1,<>C'''. and is istpidly increasing. ^Kaitlaattaii. SO miles from Law- rence, and 119 from Wyandotte by nil, is situated at the confluenc-e of the Bfe: Blue with the Kansas Eiver. The fonv . : stream anords a fine water-power. T.r itaf; A:rric-:l:uraJ O^effe Is wonhy * vis: I. Fort Kiley, three miles east of Junction Qty, the present lenninus cf ftc ZTiiic'R PtK-f A: (Zl I).) UnLis.zy. is nuHlr interesting to the tourist as a DiiSarr post. The barracks, built in ISo?— '"-i. ai* of stone, and have ae::---; " ' "' - for fflghi companies. The -V ■' <«. in the vicinity should "_ . - The Bepoblican and Smoky Eili xorks aaiie their gtT osTn> lo form the Kansas ^e at this point. Jravellers bound still iartJier westwffl take stage at Jcncti(Hi Ctty, 3 afle Fort Scort, anoth«' miEtarT fH^ is on the Marineton Creek, in the s em part of the State, 12*3 miles of Leavenworth. Tbe post -^ras estib- lishe-d in IS-li and the town incotpo- raied in lS-35. Pc; -1 ''-' - -'' Atdiison, ^ west bank ^Big E._, _: ._. l-.^.-^ at the month of Independence Ciwk,' was long femous as an outfirnrr f^>f*^ and point of departure en the ;: land route to the Padnc. It :- e^d with Leaven-s-onh, St Josr ha, and other towns on ihe !^; - river and raiL It contains bank, a hotel, and several fine buiriing-s. The-?Vff Pr^s* and of Fr^sdom are poifi^ed hare. tion, 4,500. JDoftij^uaat is a si^Il grsdn-sl post, oa ihe river, a few mDes pulation vari- Jy estimated at from 6o,000 to To.OvW dtnated in the geographical centra lUhe continent, equidistant between the itic and Paeifio Oceans, on the great liway of trade and travel between the l^r and West, North and South, and advance rapidly in populatitoi and prodnedoB. 'Sxa lEssama. Birer. wbidi wa^ies Ite entire eastern boeradazy. aSbids e^y outlet to the St. loufe and Sovawm laaiic^SjfortiieprcdoeiscarfliesQfl; wUle the Umiom^Pasf^Mnlminf,vom€Kmtfitlbed ZSO miles w«s^raid, places the Ujt%«! lla in ifirect commBnieaticnwTditbegrowii^ towns en tiie Flatie, and its (sanc^es ai £ir as die eastan boaiadaiy of CokradkiL The agriealtnial and nmiaal zesources of the S^ttearen0wbdi^»{iidh-deT«h)ped, and new towi^ aie Sjpmigji^ up *Jk]B^ the TP am aTSiues of trard with a lapad- ity which woold sean marveOoos any- where save in the Great West. Tfausfiir the lailway system oi the State is em- braced -by tbe r»*0K /WlK' iSnftrait, which inns doe west finom Omaha to Xft important and thriving towns «j the Mis- souri Kiver, ranking next to Lcarenwrnth and St. Joseph in point of popufation. The site is ^ileasantly undulating, ecwo- rD,^inding an extended view of the ri\-er. north and south. The name of the city is derived ftom a tribe of Indians who formeriy inhabited this region. In 1853 the site of tte prv-sisit city was an unin- habited wild. In lSt>0 the populatkn was but l.SSS. In 1865 it had iiK^>ased to 4,500, and it is now estimated at 6,000, 2S3 Nebraska City.] NEBRASKA. [Plattesmoutu. The Capitol., a brick edifice, occupies a ooniiiianding site on tlie Republican blocli. Tlie Hcrndon House is tlie principal hotel. It affords but indifferent accommodation, a new hotel being much needed. Lime- stone of good quality is found in the vi- cinity of the city. Fort Calhomi and Florence are a short distance north of Omaha. Below are the stations on the Union Pacific Railroad : Omaha, to Papillion, 13 miles; Elkhorn, 29; Fre- mont, 47 ; North Bend, 61 ; Shell Creek 76; Columbus, 91; Silver Creek, 109 Lone Tree, 132; Grand Island, 154 Wood River, 172; Kearney, 190; Elm Creek, 211; Plum Creek, 230; Willow Island, 250 ; Brady Island, 268 ; North Platte, 290. Nelsraslca City, the second town of the State, is situated on the west bank of the Missouri, 86 miles south of Omaha by river. It is prettily situated on rising ground, and commands some fine views. It has been an important outfitting point, and still retains considerable trade. It is the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of the 234 Diocese. It contains 7 churches and one or two substantial public buildings — pop- ulation, 4,500. Kearney City and Browns- ville are small places on the river south of Nebraska City. E^lattcsaiiioiitSA, the capital of Cass County, is on the Missouri, 1^ miles below the mouth of the Platte, and 38 miles, by water, south of Omaha. It has a good landing, and a population of 1,200. The chief interior towns of Nebraska are Pawnee, Columbus, Fremont, llulo, Decatur, Fall City, and Fontenelle. Distances. — From St. Louis to Omaha and Fort Pierre on Missouri River ; To Leavenworth City, Kan., 495 miles ; Wes- ton, Mo., 505 ; latan. Mo., 518 ; Atchison, Kan., 532 ; St. Joseph, Mo., 565 ; Savan- nah, Mo., 583; Brownsville, Neb., 662; Nebraska Citv, Neb., 714; Omaha, Neb., 800 ; Council Bluffs, Iowa, 802 ; Flor- ence, Neb., 815; De Soto, Neb., 843; Sioux City, Iowa, 1,050; Fort Vermilion,' D. T., 1,129; Fort Randall, D. T., 1,285,; Fort Lookout, D. T., 1,385 ; Fort Pierrej! D. T., 1,535. iii IFORNIA. I CALIFORNIA. [California. CALirOK]^IA. traveller can be said to have made I" grand tour " of the American Con- nt, who has not visited Gahfornia. State contains a greater number and ety of natural objects of interest and .ity — more to impress the tourist with thimagnitude and resources of the couu- trjand the future which hcs before it, th'L perhaps any other State in the Ujon. This is, we believe, now gener- al] conceded by intelligent judges. In- dtlsndent, however, of its numerous and vajed scenic attractions, California has a liijory all her owu, which must ever be rejete with interest for the traveller, the mie so as he witnesses the astonishing nrl-ress which it has made during the i ;ii years. The peninsula of Lower I nia was discovered by the expedi- ,,:,i of Cortez in 1534-'35. Upper Cali- fojia was seen by Cabrillo in 1542. SiJFrancis Drake visited the coast and difpvered Jack's Harbor, on the bay of SiiJFrancis Drake, a few miles to the uc; hward of the bay of San Francisco, in5'79. Francisco Vila landed in 1582, ai;; Juan del Fuca in 1595. In 1596 a mjtary post was established at Santa Ct^. by Sebastian Vizcayno. In 1*769 th|bay of San Francisco was discovered bylhe early Spanish missionaries, who - blished some 18 missions in the (i itry ; these continued to flourish imtil J'" tlie Mexican Revolution in 1822, .1 1 they fell into decay under the new ■OTument. iiptain John Sutter estabhshed himself ne!' the present site of Sacramento City "n ?30. In 1846 the war broke out be- w)) the United States and Mexico, 111 resulted iu the conquest and pur- ■bc of California by the United States. The treaty ceding California and New Mexico to the United States was dated at the city of Guadalupe Hidalgo, February 2, 1848; ratified by the United States March 11, 1848, exchanged at Queretaro, May 30, 1848, and proclaimed by the President, July 4, 1848. It was organ- ized as a State, December 15, 1849, and admitted into the Union, September 19, 1850. Gold was discovered in January, 1848, by James W. Marshall, in the employ of Captain Sutter, at Sutter's Mill, on the South Fork of the American River, near the present city of Sacramento. From this date the unprecedented progress of the country commenced. The State of California extends along the Pacific coast nearly '750 miles from southeast to northwest, with an average breadth from east to west of 250 miles, containing an area of 18'7,500 squai'e miles, or nearly twice the size of Great Britain. The whole country naturally falls into three great divisions, viz. : First, the great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, with all their lateral val- leys ; all of whose waters meet in the bay of San Francisco, passing through the Golden Gate to the Pacific Ocean. Second, the portions of the Coast Range north and south of the bay of San Fran- cisco, wliere the country is drained by streams falling directly into the Pacific, as the Klamath, Eel River, Russian River, the Salinas, San Pedro, and San Bernar- dino, with others of lesser magnitude. Third, the country east of the Sierra Ne- vada chain, the waters of which fall into the Great Basin, having no outlet to the ocean. The ranges of mountains comprise the 235 California.] CALIFORNIA. [ROL'TES. Sien-a Nevada, which divides the State on the east from the Great Basin, and the Coast Range on the west. Between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, lies the extensive country of the First Divi- sion, a valley of some 500 miles in length, with an average breadth of 80 miles, with a rich soil and warm climate, pro- ducing all the fruits of the warm region, with the products of the more temperate climes. The lateral valleys, with an ele- vation of from 1,000 to 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, produce the more hardy fruits and grains common to the more northern States of the Union. A belt of gigantic timber, consisting of pines, firs, cedars, oaks, etc., etc., extends the entire length of the Sierra Nevada range, affording a supply of wood that can never be exhausted. The mining region also stretches along this range, extending on the north into the Coast Mountains, passing into Oregon with an average breadth of 40 or 50 miles, at some points extending from the valley to near the summit of the Sierras, a distance of 100 miles in breadth. The Second Division, located near the coast, contains thousands of beautiful valleys, some of which are very extensive, as that of the Salinas, whose outlet is at the bay of Monterey and the country ad- joiuiBg Los Angeles and San Diego. This portion has a cooler climate than the lower valleys of the First Division, owing to their proximity to the sea. It yields every variety of product, from the orange and other fruits of the warm region at Los Angeles, to the more tem- perate clime and products of Humboldt Bay and Trinity River at the north. Gold is also found, and the richest quicksilver mines in the world. Oaks and gigantic redwoods afford fine lumber. Of the Third Division, the country east of the Sierra Nevada, but little is known, especially to the southeast, yet many fine valleys occur, as that of Carson's Val- ley, which now contains a considerable population. Gold also is found along the eastern slope of the Sierra. These, then, are the general features of the country. Much more might be said concerning the variety of climate incident to the location, the different natural pro- ductions, the mines of gold, quicksilver, 236 coal, and iron, which are being dally dis- covered, with the many advantages of soil and climate adapted to grazing and agricultural purposes. It is divided into 45 counties. Sacn mento is the capital, and San FrancisoO' the chief commercial city. Routes. — There are two routes b;_ which to reach California from New York or the Eastern States. These are the Steamship routes, via Panama and Nicara- gua, and the Consolidated Overland Rail- way and Stage route, via Omaha, Denvei Salt Lake City, and Sacramento. Twi lines of steamers are now running bi tween New York and San Francisco, viz.: the " Pacific Mail" and the "Opposition" or "Nicaragua Transit" line. Thi steamers comprising the former line leavi on the 1st, 11th, and 21st of each mom from Pier No. 42, foot of Canal Streel^ for Aspinwall direct, where they connecti with the Panama Raihva'^ and the conht pany's steamers to San Francisco. TU«^ boats of the latter leave every 20 dayg^ from Pier No. 29, foot of Warren Street^ The cost of passage by the latter lin% is less than by the mail line, but the aOr;^ commodations and fare are not so good»; (See Advertisements.) ,• The routes overland have become by- dint of travel numerous and reasonably easy and safe. Continuous lines of raiW way from the principal Eastern cities wiip carry the tourist or traveller to Omahai*'- Nebraska, whence the Union Pacific Rait- way arid the Overland Stages of Wells, Fargo & Co., conduct him to Sacramento^ California, or any intermediate pohit oi the great overland line. (See Union Paci Eic Railway and Overland Stage Line, We will suppose the traveller to ha' selected, as he most probably will, thfl first and most popular of these rou and will accompany him on his voyage^ Leaving New York, we pass down t^^^H beautiful bay and are soon upon the broa^H Atlantic. After crossing the Gulf Stream, in about the latitude of Cape Hatteras, we occasionally catch a glimpse of the low coral islands of the Bahamas. Wat- ling's Island, one of this group, which forms the entrance to what is known as the Crooked Island passage, is usually reached on the fourth day from New York. Five days' good steaming bring "Z^T" I>^OTtude East * 12^^ Jrt> tn Grgenwri dh i A M : E ^. ' JHl! jPINWALL.] CALIFORNIA. [ASPINWALL. to Cape Maysi, the eastern extremity Cuba, whose highlands, with those of ! more distant mountains of San Do- ;igo, look beautiful in the warm tropi- haze, as we pass between them. Eighty es S. S. W., of Cape Maysi, is the md of Nevassa, famous for its large c|)Osits of guano. Leaving this island, : blue mountains of Jamaica, in the ghborhood of Porto Bello, loom up, )ut 50 miles to our right. This is the lit land seen until we arrive at Aspinwall, t- Atlantic terminus of the Isthmus lilroad, which is usually reached in fiorable weather after a voyage of six t' seven days from New York. Distance, liSO miles. ispinwall. — Hotels, City, Howard-. .spinwall, known in Europe as Colon, iiituated upon the island of Manzanilla, aithe northeast entrance to Navy Bay, al owes its existence and present im- p:tance to the Panama Jiailway, in inection with the Pacific Mail Steam- Company. The population consists ;:he employes of the railway and steam- p lines, together with a motley class Jamaica negroes. Navy Bay is about tl;ee miles in length by two in width, all abounds in fish. Beyond the novel pises of life which Aspinwall presents, tlire is little of interest in the place, and tlj traveller is usually glad to take his Si It in the cars for Panama. In the early days of California immi- gtion, Aspinwall, and indeed the whole ii-imus in this latitude, was considered vy unhealthy, and fearful are the tales t(l of the sufferings and pi-ivations of tl se who were exposed to v/hat were then n inaptly called the "horrors of the n Idle passage; " but with the comple- tii of the railway, fevers and malarial di'ases have pretty much disappeared, a ^ the transit is now comfortably made inbout three hours. jeaviug Aspinwall, less than half a n e brings the traveller to that part of tlisland shore where the railway leaves it and crosses over the frith to the s^mps of the main-land beyond. The sires hereabouts are skirted with a d' se grove of mangrove-bushesy which d op deep into the water, while directly ir front the traveller looks through a via, opened by the railway, into an apparently interminable forest. These waters abound in beautiful varieties of fish, known among the natives as the fiores-del-mar, or the " flowers of the sea." in shape and size these fish resemble the sun-fish of our Northern lakes, and are remarkable for their varied and brilliant colors. Passing Mount Hope, with its cemetei'y, we shortly cross the Mindee River, famous for its enormous alligators, which empties into Navy Bay, about a mile and a half from Aspinwall. For several miles the road passes through a deep marsh, reaching Gatun Station, on the eastern bank of the Chagres River, seven miles from Aspin- wall, in about half an hour. On the op- posite shore of the river, stands the ancient native town of Gatun, situated on the edge of a broad . savannah, and composed of some forty or fifty huts of cane and palm. This was a famous stop- ping-place in the early days of California immigration over the isthmus. Leaving the river a mile or two to the right, we next traverse a dense tropical forest, with occasional clearings, and pass- ing a few native huts, arrive at Barbf^cbas, crossing the Chagres River upon a hand- some wrought-iron bridge, six hundred and twenty-five feet long, and forty feet above high water in the Rio Chagres. Beyond Barbacoas we enter a beautiful stretch of meadow-lands, bounded by high precipitous hills, while the river, broad and swift, pursues its serpentine course through its deep channel on the left, displaying along its banks, groups of a gigantic species of branchless ceiba, that breaks the outline of dense palm and cocoa groves. -The cultivation of the lands at this point, is said to date back for more than two centuries, and to have been originally prosecuted by the Jesuits. The stations of San Pablo, Mamei, and the native settlement of Gor- gona, are next quickly passed, and then we reach the beautiful meadow-lands of Matachin. Here, rising in all their state- liness, the classic sheaves of the royal palm shed an air of oriental beauty over the landscape. Beyond, the cerro giff ante (summit), the highest point of the isthmus, is seen on our right. From this summit Balboa is said to have discovered the waters of the Pacific Ocean. 237 ASPINWALL.] CALIFORNIA. [Panam Moving Tvestward, we get occasional views of the river, gleaming amid the rich verdure of gigantic trees and overhanging vines, until we reach the little hamlei^ of Matachin, and thence on to the summit. From this point we descend i\apidly along the base of Monument Hill, through the valley of the Rio Obispo, past Empire Station, to the little native settlement of Culehra ("the Snake"), which was the terminus of the road in 1854. At this point commences the Pacific slope of the road, with a descending grade of 60 feet to the mile. A mile west from the sum- mit, the road passes along the side of a huge basaltic cliff, whose gigantic crystals, nearly a foot in diameter, and from eight to twelve feet in length, appear to the be- holder at an angle of forty degrees. This whole region givcB unmistakable evidence that severe and comparatively recent vol- canic forces have been instrumental in its formation. Endless growths of palm now interpose, and break the view for nearly three miles, beyond which the beautiful undulating valley of Paraiso (Paradise), the bold head of Mount Ancon, and the Cerro de los Buccaneros (or " Hill of the Buccaneers " ), with the distant ocean, come in view. Still farther in the dis- tance rise the towers and spires of the city of Panama. Previous to the completion of the rail- road, the steamers touched at Chagres, from which place the travel up the Chagres River was performed in native boats to Gorgona or Cruces, thence by animals to Panama ; this generally occupied three or four days, and was attended with much exposure and discomfort, which very often resulted in an attack of Isthmus fever, so fatal in its consequences. In 1850 the survey of the railroad was commenced, under the superintendence of the well- known traveller, the late John L. Ste- phens. In July, 1852, 23J miles of the road were completed, from Aspinwall to Jlarbacoas, on the Chagres River, and f/pened for travel. From that date Cha- gres sunk into utter neglect, as all the travel was diverted to Aspinwall, passing up the river from Barbacoas. December, 1854, saw the road completed to Culebra, on the summit. Panama was reached from the latter place by animals. It was not until January 27, 1855, five years after 238 its commencement, that the first loeom five passed over the entire road fro ocean to ocean, a distance of 49 milt The isthmus afforded little or no materi for its construction ; not even food for tl laborers. Every thing had to be import( from the United States or from Europ A primeval forest was cut through, den jungles were opened, deadly swamps we crossed, deep cuts were made, rivci spanned by bridges, whose timber w: brought from afar; and, more than a^ the pestilential climate swept thousam upon thousands into their graves ere tl oceans were united. As a small steam is lying at the terminus of the railroad • convey the California passengers on boa the Pacific steamer, which is waiting f us at the Island of Perico, some two mi)' distant, we shall not have an opportuni of visiting the city of Panama. Yet \ obtain a general view as we pass upon o transit to the steamer, its old towers ai ramparts gleaming in the sun, overgrov with rank vegetation, presenting a tin worn and venerable appearance, finely i lieved by the background of hills, cloth : in the richest green. f^aiasEaaiaa. — Hotel, Aspinwi House. — The city of Panama stands upi a rocky peninsula that stretches outfrci the base of Mount Ancon, about a qui ter of a mile into the sea. Its roadste is one of the finest in the world. T city itself contains many objects of i terest ; but owing to the present arratif ment, travellers en route for Califorr have but a limited opportunity for vis ing them, unless they should lie over o steamer ; a delay which, in view of tl greater attractions of San Francis and the Golden Gate, few are willing undergo. Three hours well spent n suffice to show the stranger the " lion of the city, and these he will have , his command before the sailing of ti steamer. Panama contains, at present, a pop; lation of about 12,000. Previously 1. l'i'44, it was the principal entrepot i the Pacific coast trade, and continiH' so imtil its decline, together with that the otlier Spanish possessions in Ameri' ; Within the last few years its trade 1 greatly improved, and rents are now hi and buildings in great demand. 1 PJiFIC TOTAGE.] CALIFORNIA. [ACAPULCO. isads of Pmco, Flamenco, -and Islnao, irithe harbor, abound in fine natural $1 ngs, and are well worth visiting. If 0]jOrtuTiity present, the stranger should vit th e site and ruins of " the city of ama the ancient," destroyed by Sir ry Morgan in 1661, which are located altut six miles southeast of the present A visit to the cathedral in new ama will well repay the tourist. Visit- at the isthmus will do well to report •aselves to Captain George Butler, ioned at Panama', as acting resident iS. Consul. His attentions to stran- g(8 desirous of seeing Panama, make hii a most desirable acquaintance. HE Pacific Voyage. — Safely on board steamer, we are soon under way for Francisco, steering south, past the itiful islands of Tobocja and Toboquil- vhicli are twelve miles from the city. the former is quite an important ton, also the works of the English Pacific Sf .m Navigation Company, whose ships to Valparaiso and Callao and other s of the west coast of South Ameri- Soon after we pass the lovely ids of Otoque and Bana, while away he southeast, glimpses of the Pearl Eld groups are obtained. Ninety miles . W. from the anchorage. Point Mala assed, and the next morning finds steaming past the island of Quibo, nee we obtain a distant and last view oihe mountains of the Isthmus. |he traveller will find the arrangements oiboard the splendid steamers compos- Ihe mail line all that can be desired fofcomfort and convenience, and with a plisant company, which there usually insed always is, on the Pacific side, his Ydge will pass rapidly and pleasantly eingh. On the sixth day from Panama, F nt Sacrijicios, the northwest point of tl Bay of Tehuan tepee is usually sighted. e, in fine weather, the traveller has a T of the mountains of Mexico. Two h^dred and ten miles fai-ther we enter harbor o( Acaptilco. Here the steam- 3 usually detained from three to four rs, for the purpose of coaling, when opportunity is afforded for going ore, of which passengers, so disposed, ivail themselves, he harbor of Acapulco is one of the t perfect in the world, protected on all sides by mountains, which rise almost from the water's edge. We gaze with delight upon the fine groves of cocoas and palms, and look with interest upon the faded glories of this once important place. The motley population of Mexi- cans observed in the streets, which are alive with venders of all sorts of fruits and curiosities, is a study of itself, seen nowhere save in a Spanish city. At the period of my visit (December, 1866), additional interest was given to the place by the presence of two French and one United States men-of-war which lay im- mediately off the town. The place is similar in appearance to all other Spanish-American towns or cities. The houses are low, generally of one story, with thick walls and high- peaked roofs covered with tiles to pro- tect the inmates fi'om the intense heat. The plaza or public square, the church, consulate building, and one or two of the public buildings, will repay a visit. The fort {Castle d' Acapulco), an old-fashioned fortification which guards the entrance to the harbor a little east of the town, and commands a fine view, should be visited. In a grove to the left of the town are the graves of six American consuls, who have died at this place. Resuming our voyage, we soon lose sight of the high mountain range of Mex- ico, the last land seen, until, on the fourth day, we approach the southern extremity of Lower California, Cape St. Lucas. From tills point the weather suddenly becomes cold; and as we approach our destination thick clothing comes into re- quisition. As we coast northward we sometimes see land, perhaps one of the barren islands off the coast of Lower California ; but, as the atmosphere along the coast is generally very hazy, especially during the summer time, we find but little of interest until we approach the Golden Gate, the entrance to the noble bay of San Francisco. Upon the 12tli daj' from Panama, usu- ally 21st or 22d day from New York, we see the mountains of the Coast Rani,e, among which Tamal-Pais stands preemi- nent, with Monte Diablo in the distance, looming up from the waters ; and soon after we near Point Lobos, with Point Bonita on our left, as we euter the Golden 239 San Francisco.] CALIFOENIA. [San Francisi Gate ; Fort Point is soon abreast, and we enter the bay of San Francisco. Two miles ftirther on we pass the Presidio, and catch a distant view of the western and northern portion of the metropolis of the Pacific. To our loft, Alcatraz or Pelican Island rises from the surface of tlie bay, bristling with cannon, and surmounted by a lighthouse ; while beyond, Angel Island rises to the height of 900 feet. Doubling Telegraph Hill, the city bursts upon our vision, rising picturesquely from the bay, which extends southward, lilie a vast in- land sea. We are soon alongside of the wharf, and thus ends our pleasant voyage of three tveeks from New York. The following official table of distances to different points on the coast between San Francisco and Panama is inserted for the guidance of travellers : Miles. Miles. From San Francisco to Monterey. 78 ToSanMig-uol 181 259 '• Cerros Island 442 701 " Point St. Lazzero 261 962 " Cape San Lucas 180 1,142 " Cape Corrientes 274 1,416 " Manzanillo (Colima) 102 1,518 " Acapulco 290 1,808 " Point Sacrificios 210 2,018 " Cape Blanco 548 2.766 " Bunca Point 168 2,934 " Hicarita Island 88 3.022 •' Cape Malo 118 8,140 "Panama 90 8,230 Adding to tills 8,280 Across the Isthmus 49 Aspinwall to New Tork , 1,980 Total distance from San Francisco to Now York 5,259 SAIT FRANCISCO. Hotels. — The ZicJc Rouse, Occidental Hotel, and Russ House, on Montgome- ry Street ; the Cosmopolitan, on Bush Street ; and the Continental, on Com- mercial, corner of Sansom Street, are all good houses, centrally located on the leading thoroughfares of the city. The Lick House has recently been en- larged and refurnished, and is now one of the best houses on the Pacific coast. The dining-room is unsurpassed for its design, and the elegance of its appoint- ments. The OcCTf/mte/ is one of the finest buildings in the city, and luider the able management of the Messrs. Leland will always sustain its reputation for comfort and good fare. Charges at the above 210 bouses range from fS to $3.50 (gold) \ day. Furnished apartments are eve where abundant. The restaurants .■ also numerous. That attached to I Union Club, over Wells, Fargo &C(i bank, is the most desirable for strangii (members' introduction, and card). J San Francisco, the principal city aud QQ port of California, and the metropolis (ii% Pacific coast, is situated upon the bajr^ San Francisco, four miles from its entrao to the sea, and Hes in latitude 37" ^ north, and longitude 122° 30' west, fnj Greenwich. The Mission (Dolores) % founded and the Presidio established f 1'7'76. The first tent was erected Captain W. A. Richardson in 1835, 8, in the following year (1836) the first hou was built by Jacob P. Lease, on the « nerof Clay and Dupont Streets. U[ January, 184*7, the city bore the uami Yerba Buena. At the time gold v discovered, in January, 1848, it contain but 200 buildings of all kinds, and a p ulation of 800. In the year 1860 ■ city covered an area of 8 or 9 squ miles, with a population of some 65,0 The population now numbers 115,000. ' Among the principal buildings are ■ City Hall, fronting upon the Plaza Portsmouth Square ; the United Sic Custom-Hov.se and Fost- Office, corner Washington and Battery Streets; United States Marine Hospital, Einr Point ; the Occidental, Lick, and Oo&t polilan Hotels, the new Merchants' . change and Bank of Ccdifornia, on C fornia Street, near Montgomery, i many fine structures of lesser note, as Custom-House Block, corner of Sans, and Sacramento Streets ; Mercantile hrary Building, corner of Bush i Montgomery Streets ; United States 1 trict Court Biulding, corner of Waslii ton and Battery Streets ; Masonic li junction of Post, Market, and Montgoni Streets ; Odd- Fellows^ Hall, corner Bush and Kearney Streets. The M which occupies an insignificant and rati gloomy-looliing building on Commer Street, is well worth visiting. Appl tions should be made to Mr. Frank Harte, the secretary. The site for a i mint has just been purchased by the G ernment. The Lincoln School, on Fi near Market Street, is a handsome bi ^AJ-1J :' i «5 i-Jj» *i: J!6\ '■Jlil 3iS\ .17: ALAMO SpUARC .« !-*JV «J J.fn '.«/ J«4 iji.f |.M< U.TOW S9UAR£ d d '"" d d d d d d dd d d H d d d d d ...|.,.i,,,|,.,i..,,|,„i,.,l„i,,,,|.,.,L,,|.»,K,..|,.|;j y .;; / JTo i.ie.'i .w.' .fui .«« js.; jij k.: .mj ,J6» jso jjs j i±iKli^ll^dHaddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd...todd r"T .,- ,'^-■-^,,ISa""^"|..^M:d^..l."i-..i...|lyggyy-J™J-J»J --j^^ , ddddddddd^^ddHQarjU^Iddddddilil '^1d:"]Rddd'''ldd;:lddadddddd JEFFERSON :!il L J'^l f^^^^i fi!^, .~r' "-^^ Ifi r^ ,Sad -^-J y^ '-iid rEd ^*fr in is .^ Ui J ^ ¥J^ ddddiddddddddddaddadds ddd i J jdd jdddddQBdddddLSad ' ;jdiSfflid ' iddd ' ' 'Jddddiitf'id^! ! ' I tjjjj_j jd?t'didd J Jd'iMWdydd jdJdzjdddddddddddgdidJildd 3dlddajddd jSltad&jiye :]d '^ 1. 'iir ^.^ i|jiitapiT-g|z^E^ d^dd OT.ai-jvj jji^iljfll M^ \\/ REFERENCE ^ ^A^ < dddi Jd-lddJdrF jdddd^L r ^^^^ _ FmntStOceankifut^J!!: I Sumiiul af-lun/raiiUBIl _^^ CmtratX.K n i{ '^anJOlL MrtA.BtacKtMssuatJtR )U C/o/ Aiifi SAN FRANCISCO 1866 G ei m a m P bi ol Francisco.] CALIFORNIA. [San Francisco. )lding in the Eenaissance style, and )lers that would compare favorably with iij buildings to be found in the large i] tern cities, lontgomery Street, the leading thor- lifare, is a handsome street, and is ally thronged with pedestrians. On fornia Street the principal banks, and kers' and insurance offices are located. he principal churches are : First Pres- yian Churchy Stockton Street, be- bn Clay and Washington ; Calvary sbytcrian Ckui-ch, Bush Street, be- 3n Montgomery and Sansom ; Mrst B'fist Church, Washington Street, be- iwen Dupont and Stockton •, M7'si Con- nlaiional CImrch, corner of Dupont irl California Streets ; Grace Cathedral Om~ch, corner of Stockton and California stjets; Church of the Advent, Mission it'et, below Second ; First Unitarian Om-ch, Geary, near Stockton: M. E. Oirch, Powell Street, between Washing- roiand Jackson ; St. Maryh Cathedral, !o er of Dupont and California Streets ; SiFrancis Church, Vallejo Street, be- ,\v n Dupont and Stockton, St. Ignatius 0}\-cha7id College, on Market Street, and jiilV other fine ones of less prominence. rh|e best worthy a visit are Grace and St. Mkj^s Cathedrals, and Trinity (building), \mSt. Francis Churches. The corner- itcj) of Grace was laid May, 1860. Its iiilnsions are 135 feet by 62 feet, and 66 ■eelhigh. St. Mary^s is the largest and no costly church edifice in the city. It .va'pommenced July lY, 1853, and dedi- i December 25, 1854. It is in the ic style of architecture, and has seats pward of 1,200 persons. It has cost far $1 '75,000. The Hebrew syna- 'e of Emanu El, on Sutter Street, be- :\v(ii Stockton and Powell, should be vis- It occui)ies a commandmg site, and itself an imposing structure. The prium is elegantly finished, and has nmodation for 1,200 persons. Many ; school buildings are also commo- and substantial structures. principal j^laces of amusement pfagmi-e\i Ojiera-Ilouse, Washington near Montgomery ; Academy of Pine, between Montgomery and 1 Streets ; MetropoUlan Tlicatre, . . ..; .jiitgomery Street ; FlatCs JVewMusic Wail Montgomery Street, near the corner 11 Te of Bush, and many others of less note. The Mercantile Library Association, cor- ner of Montgomery and Bush Streets, has a collection of upward of 25,000 volumes. Reading and chess rooms attached. A commodious structure, intended for the purpose of the library, is now in course of construction, on Bush Street, opposite the Cosmopolitan Hotel. A visit to the Mission, three miles southwest of the city, will interest the stranger. The Market Street railroad cars start for that point each half hour in the day. Lines of omnibuses are running over the plank road to the same place by a more circuitous route, passing through " The Willows," a pleasant suburban re- treat, on their way. Many fine gardens are in the vicinity. The race-course is a mile beyond. The Protestant Orphan Asylum is a fine building half a mile north. The Mission itself is an object of much interest. It is an adobe building of the old Spanish style, built in 1'7'76. Adjoining is the cemetery, with its ■well-worn paths and fantastic monuments. Among the cemeteries, that of Eo7ie Mountain is best worthy a visit. Eo7ie Mountain Cemetery. — This pretty ground is 2^ miles west of the principal hotels, and is reached by street cars. It was dedicated May 30, 1854. The first interment was made June 2, 1854. It then consisted of 160 aci'es, which was enlarged to its present size in 1862. Up- ward of 12,000 interments have already been made. Large numbers of the Chinese have been placed in vaults in this cemetery, previous to their removal to China. Among the monuments, that erected to Senator Broderick, just com- pleted from a design by William Craine, at an expense of $15,000 is the most note- worthy. Ralston's, modelled after the Parthenon at Rome, and Luning's, are also fine structures. The great feature of Zone Moutiiainis its unrivalled outlook, embracing fine bird's-eye views of the ocean, bay, and city. Mount Diablo, and the Coast Range. The quarries in the immediate neighbor- hood supply abundance of building mate- rial. A line of omnibuses also runs to the Presidio, which is situated some three miles toward the Golden Gate; a mile 241 San Francisco.] CALIFORNIA. [San Francisi farther is Fort Foini, so called from the fortification which protects the entrance to the liarbor. Following the shore we pass Foint Lobos and Seal Rock House^ 3 miles, and the same distance farther reach the Cliff House, situated on a little arm of the sea. From this point, returning to the city, 8 miles distant, the road winds through and over the San Bruno Hills, from whose peaks — 1,200 feet above the level of the sea — a fine view of the bay on one side, and of the ocean on the other, is to be had. The view from Telegraph Hill, 290 feet high, at the northern extremity of the city, is unsurpassed. This view embraces the city, stretching along the semi-amphitheatre of hills, and overflow- ing the depressions toward the Presidio on the west and the Mission on the south. both arms and the entrance to the bay, including the island of Alcatraz, which is fortified. Angel Island, over 700 feet in height, and Yerha Buena (Goat Island), the mountains of Mai-in County on the north, with the peak of Tamal Fais, 2,600 feet high ; and the Contra Costa Range on the east, with Monte Diablo rising in the background to a height of 3,700 feet. The summits of Russian and Rincon Hills, and the Shot Tov/er, 200 feet high, on the corner of Shelby and First Streets, also afford fine views. A ferry-boat (corner Pacific and Davis Streets) connects the city with Oakland every hour. Oakland lies across the bay, 8 miles distant, and contains 5,000 in- habitants and many fine residences. The College of California and the Facific Female College, both flourishing institu- tions, are located here. From Oakland stages leave daily for Somersville (35 miles), via Walnut Creek and Clayton. The Alameda ferry, from Pacific Street wharf, runs four times daily to Alameda, whence there is con- nection via San Leandro with Hayward's and Warm Springs. Delightful trips are made in the summer to the several points and objects of interest on this road. The old Spanish Mission of San Jose in Alameda County is worth visiting. From San Francisco railway and steam- ship lines diverge to all parts of the in- terior, and the coast north and south. Steamers leave daily for various points on the bay — ^Petaluma, Sonoma, Napa, Sui- 242 sun, etc., noi-th ; and for Alviso, connc ing with San Jose by stage, south — connecting with stages for the inter! Street cars afford easy access to all pa of the city and suburbs. The Chinese quarter of the city, es| cially the Chinese temples. Josh and 'j Kahn, the former in Dupont Alloy a the latter on Pine Street, near Dupo should not be omitted by the stranger. T socialhfe of the Chinese is most intere ing, and it can be studied in San Franc CO to great advantage, as there are neai 10,000 of them there congregated. Th' principal resorts are in Sacramento, Sta ton, Dupont, Commercial, and Washii ton Streets, but indeed no street in f^ Francisco is without them. The Brit Consulate is at 428 California Street; L. Booker, Consul. Distances from- San Francisco Various Points. — To Fort Foint, f( miles, by omnibus ; four trips a day. Lone Mountain, three miles, by street r, i way. To Seal Focks, sLs miles, by cars a- omnibus; tv/o trips a day. To Jfisal Dolores, by street railways ; Ocean Hou eight miles. To San Mateo, 20 miles, railroad. To Crystal Springs, 23 mil by railroad and stage. To Spanishtov 32 miles, and to Half Moon Bay (P( cadero), 48 miles, via San Mateo. Redwood City, 30 miles, by railroad a stage. To Mountain View, 38 -miles, railroad. To Santa Clara, 47 miles, railroad. To San Jose, 50 miles, by r road, or by steamer and stage, 54 mil To Alviso, 46 mOes, by steamer, dait To New Almaden Quicksilver Mines, miles, by steamer and stage, or by n ■ way and stage, 64. To Santa Crus^ ' miles, by railway and stage. To Oi land, 8 miles, by ferry and railway; j [ trips a day. To Alameda, 11 mUeB, ' steamer ; three trips a day. To % i ward's, 25 miles, by steamer; three'tn ' a day. To San Leandro, 15 mile^ ;' steamer and railway. To Mission- &' Jose, 34 miles, by steamer, raHviajjii^ stage. To Warm SjDrings, 37 miles, ej Alameda ferry. To Benicia, 30 tailni steamer leaves at 4 p. m. dady. To'" cramento, 117 miles ; steamer leaves ( 4 p. M. daily. To Stockton, 117 mill : steamer leaves at 4 p. m. daily. To Jl | tinez, 33 miles, by steamer. To Pacbe JJJTE I.] CALIFORNIA. [Route I. miles, by steamer and stage. To Imt Diablo Coal Mines, 44 miles, by tlner and stage. To Suisun, 50 miles 'Steamer, or 54 by steamer and stage. IVall " ------ i^allejo, 28 miles. To Mare Island, 'ijuiles. To Napa City, 50 miles. To \|ite Sulphur Springs, 6*7 miles, by t|e from Napa. To G yser Springs, 1 miles, by stage from Napa. To So- i(\ a, 52 miles, by steamer, tri-weekly. 'c^etaluma, 48 miles, by steamer, daily. ?('ilealdsburg, 80 miles, by stage daily r«i Petaluma. To San Quentin, 12 Qis, by steamer. To Farallone Islands, lOjiiles. FES TO THE INTERIOR OF CALIPORNIA. 7t6 Yo-Semite Valley, the Geysers, and the Big Trees. ROUTE I. 1M 8 Air FBANCmOO TO 8ACBA- MEMTO, MARY8VILLE, ETC. om San Francisco, via Sacramento, to a-^sville, up through the valley of the !a imento to the Oregon line; thence hi igh the mining regions of the east- Ti tributaries of the Sacramento and saii^oaquin Rivers, including, if time per- ni] a run over the Sierras, down the Priikee, into Carson Valley ; returning ro the southern mines, via Stockton, to lailFrancisco ; thence proceeding, via iaiTose, through the Santa Clara valley o jsalia and Los Angeles, through the ioi^ern part of the State, returning by hc-iocean from San Diego, the most loraern port, touching at Santa Bar- )aij Monterey, etc., and finally taking a ;liil)se at the more northern sections ilol the coast, and a voyage to Oregon. 3yps arrangement, making an almost •oilnuous tour of the State, all the prin- it); nlijects of interest, including the Yo-Semite, the Geysers, and Big can be seen without loss of time, ):■ incuessary travel or expense. Those vhAare so fortunate as to have both imjand means at their disposal, can of ;ou|e see much more tlian even this ex- ' Ti'd trip will afford them; but as my is to give essential information to the largest number of readers, in the briefest possible compass, I shall, I think, accomplish it most satisfactorily by con- fining my chapter on California to the limits above described. (The distances are computed by the usually travelled routes, and, when not officially given, will be found approximately correct.) I?'©!* tlie Sacramemt© IS®- g'ioia. — Leaving Broadway Wharf, San Francisco, by 4 o'clock afternoon steam- er for Sacramento, we proceed northward toward Angel Island (batteries and govern- ment works), which we pass in the bay, on the right, 5 miles from the wharf Soon after we sight Red Rock, formerly Treasure Rock, and enter the bay of San Pablo, through the straits of the same name, at a distance of about 15 miles from San Fran- cisco. West of Red Rock lie the beauti- ful little villages of San Quentin and San Rafael. They are 5 miles apart, and are connected by stage. The former contains the state-prison buildings. The Bay of Saoi Pablo is a large and beautiful sheet of water, some 15 miles wide and 20 miles long, surrounded by picturesque ranges of mountains. The view looking westward is picturesquely fine ; to the northward lie the fertile valleys of Petaluma, Sonoma, and Napa, bounded by the high mountains of the Coast Range, bathed in the warm summer haze so peculiar to California. At the head of Napa valley are warm sulphur springs, which are a favorite place of resort, and offer fiiie accommodations to the visitor. Stages at Sonoma and Petaluma connect Avith Uealdsburg, in the Russian River valley, one of the most fertile sections of the State. In the vicinity of Mt. Putas, or Geyser Peak, about 40 miles north of Petaluma, are the hot steam springs called the Geysers. The best means of reaching them is through Healdsburg. The pictur- esque scenery, deep ravines, towering mountains, and the springs — second only to the far-famed Geysers of Iceland — in- vest this section with an interest unsur- passed. (See Geyser Springs.) Still to the north the picturesque region of Clear Lake amply repays the tourist by its wild beauty and the fine hunting and fishing which the surrounding region and waters afford. 243 Benicia.] CALIFORNIA. [Sackamento. Resuming our voyage through San Pablo Bay, we pass Mave Island Navy Yard and Vallejo (railroad from Vallcjo to Marysville), where the United States Government have established a dry dock and naval station, and soon after enter the Straits of Carquinez, which connect the bay of San Pablo with the bay of Suisun. Tlie Straits ©f Cai-qminez. — These straits are about 8 miles in length, and generally three-fourths of a mile wide. Hemicia. — Benicia, the former cap- ital of the State, is situated upon the north side of and near the entrance to Suisun Bay, 30 miles from San Francisco. The Cahfbrnia Steam Navigation Company's boat plies tri-weekly, extending her trip to Suisun. Vessels of the largest size can reach this point. The steamers of the Pa- cific Mail Steamship line are refitted at this place. Their extensive founderyand ma- chine-shop is the most important building in the place. The headquarters of the United States Army are also located here. The view as we approach Benicia is grand. Looking southeast, Monte Diablo, the most remarkable peak of the Coast Range, is seen rising to the height of 3,790 feet, while the little village of Martinez, with its groves of evergreen oaks, surrounded by hills, is a fine feature in the scene. Tlie Hay of" SBuismBi, — We now enter the bay of Suisun, another arm or continuation of the great bay of San Francisco ; here the waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin unite, the former coming in fi'om the north, and the latter from the south. The growing- village of Suisun has become the outlet of a rich agricultural region on ac- count of being connected with the north side of this bay by means of a navigable slough. §acE°aiiaeMto "BSiver. — Passing through the bay, we soon enter the mouth of the Sacramento River, about 45 miles from San Francisco. Much of the land adjoining this bay and the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers is marshy, cov- ered with tides, a kind of bulrush. Abun- dance of fine salmon are caught in this river. Proceeding toward Sacramento, we pass a low range of hills to the left, Far- ther on the banks are low and the country 244 is marshy. Beyond trees occur, and the river presents a more beautiful appear- ance. Sometimes in autumn the dry tales are on fire for miles, presenting a ma ;he county seat of Nevada County. It ouins a population of about 4,000, and s tie centime of a large, rich mining region. t Mtuated well up among the foot-hills, .uc|ontains many good hotels, stores, and liwhes. Having suffered like most of he|ties of California from frequent fires, liejusiness portion of the town has been ebit with substantial fire-proof struc- urj. In the vicinity the hill diggings ,nc ;unnels are numerous and extensive. 1 1 5 ever been the first in using the im- >ro;d methods pf hydraulic pressure, lu??, tunnels, etc. Immense outlays in ' iinals, for mining purposes, have ;de here and elsewhere in Nevada 'I y. A'isit beyond the town toward the leafof the South Yuba will interest the trf^er. Besides affording him an op- lorliity to witness the rugged scenery if t| region, it will perhaps serve to con- ■inclhini of the exhaustless nature of the niiig interests of California, as all the mnuise ridges dividing the Yuba liivei", 'xtt'ling for 20 or 30 miles in length, .boi|d in the richest mines of gold, which fill .ke many years of labor to develop. ?hepuntry also affords exhaustless quan- tities of the finest lumber, consisting of pine, cedar, fir, etc. Nevada is the western terminus of an important route over the Sierras to Vir- ginia City, in Nevada, called the Henness Pass Route. A good road has been con- structed over this route, which has an easier grade than any of those farther south. The distance from Nevada to Vir- ginia City is about 100 miles. <5rass Valley. — Hotel, Exchange Hotel. Grass Valley, 4 miles south of Nevada, and 66 northeast of Sacramento, via Col- fax, is the quartz-mining centre of the State. It is finely located, and is noted for its hotels and beautiful residences, as well as numerous quartz-mills. It is said to contain more wealth, including its mills and machinery, than any other mining town in the State. The mines hereabouts are at present attracting immigration, and the population, variously estimated at from 2,000 to 4,000, is rapidly increas- ing. Aiilsiina. — Hotels, Empire, Ameri- can. — Journeying southward from Grass Valley, we wind along through the moun- tains and forests, crossing Bear River, arriving at Auburn, on the Pacific Central Railway, thirty-six miles northeast of Sacramento. This is a fine village of about 2,000 inhabitants, the county seat of Placer County, and the centre of a large farming region. A rich mining region exists riortheast of Auburn, between the north and middle forks of the American River, and many thriving mining towns have sprung up, among which are Illinoistown, Iowa Hill, Ophir, Gold Hill, Forest Hill, Yankee Jim's, Michigan Bluffs, and others, distant from 4 to 18 miles, and reached daily by stage. l>tttcli Flat, 3 1 miles distant, was formerly the starting-point of what is called the Dutch-Flat Wagon-Road over the Sierras, via the Truckee Pass, to Vir- ginia City. IPolsom. — Hotels, Patterson'' s, Cen- tral. — Folsom is situated on the Sacra- mento Valley Railway, 22 miles east of Sacramento, and 18 miles south of Au- burn. It stands at the base of the Foot Hills, and is surrounded by both a mining and an agricultural region. Trains now 249 ^ FOLSOM.] CALIFORNIA. [PLACERYtUR. run over the Vallei/ Road to Sbinglc Springs, connecting Folsom with Placer- ville, and the stage line to Nevada. While in this neighborhood an opportunity is aiforded of visiting the AlahaHttr Gave, 12 miles from Folsom. This cave, which was discovered in April, 1860, by two men who were quarrying lime- stone, is situated on the Whiskey-Bar Road, 5 miles from Centreville, in El Dorado County. It is thus described by a recent visitor : " A single step takes you from the street into the hall of the silent mansion. This entrance is not the one first discovered, but has been cut through the solid rock from another cham- ber to the outer world. Passing through this, the visitor is ushered into an irregu- lar apartment two hundred feet in length by perhaps seventy-five in width, and of various heights, with numerous eleva- tions, depressions, recesses, galleries, etc. A scene of wonderful magnificence is be- fore him. Millions of jewels appear to be glittering from the walls. Shining pend- ants, some large, some small, some short, some very long, some I'euching from ceil- ing to floor, s.ome thick, some slender, some tapering, some uniform, some tubu- lar, some solid, some clear as crystal, some of a bluish tinge, hang thickly from the marble roof. Here a little wrinkly stub of a stalagmite pushes itself up from the floor; and there stands Lot's wife turned not into a pillar of salt, but of marble ; and there, again, is Mount Blanc rising with its snowy folds several feet above your head. Passing through this first chamber and descending a little, you turn to the left, through a cross-section, from which shoot out several passages, some brilliantly lit, and beautiful to be hold, and others, one at least, as yetimex- plored. Turning still to the left, you en- ter the last chamber, lying exactly parallel to the one first entered, but if any thing more beautiful. This is called the Crystal Chapel,a,i\d has its belfry and pulpit as well. The pulpit especially is a thing of rare beauty, probably built in the olden time, as it is rather too near the ceiling to be of modern design. It has been formed by droppings from above, catchmg on a pro- jection of rock, and then rising and spreading and folding over with the most graceful drapery underneath." 250 l*liacerville . — Hotki^s, Oary House, Orleans Hotel. Plaeerville, the county seat of El Dorado County, is 28 ■miles east of Folsom. The Valley Rail., road is now in progress from that point via Shingle Springs. It is one of the oldest and one of the largest of the moun- tain towns, containing about 4,000 in- habitants. It is on one of the priucipal routes of travel over the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the Washoe region in Carson Valley, and has long been a prominent out-fitting point. The town of Coloma, 10 miles northwest of Plaeerville, was for- merly the county seat of El Dorado County, and is distinguished as the plate where gold was first discovered. There- mains of the old saw-mill of Captain Sut-- ter are just below the present town, and will be looked upon with much inferesti by the stranger as a memento of the great event which has revolutionized the commerce of the world. Carson Valley. — We will now accompany our traveller over the Sierra; to Carson Valley, touching at other point- on the eastern slope, where exist silvci and gold mines of marvellous richncs:^ • which are attracting capitaUsts from tin Old and New World. There is a finely graded road the whole distance, and i winds through some of the wildest am most beautiful scenery in California, a v/ell as affording glimpses of the moi grand and sublime. The facilities for trav el over the Plaeerville and Virginia Cii Road are of the best description. Alui; of mail stages runs daily between the tw' cities, bringing them within 30 hours oi each other, allowing passengers time fof meals and rest upon the road. Leaving Plaeerville in the afternoon, w enter almost immediately upon the broai mountain road that by easy grades cor ducts us to the west summit of the Sierr Nevada, a height of 7,000 feet above th level of the sea. As we approach th summil, the pines, firs, and cedars attai, a gigantic size, and constitute a densj forest. At Crippen's, 26 miles froi Plaeerville, we pass the night. Kenewin' the journey at daybreak, we pass throng Strawberry Valley, 50 miles from Place' ville, where a good hotel affords the be; of accommodation ; and a few miles fa ther reach the western summit. Fro; iKE TaHOE.] CALIFORNIA. [Petaluma. is point of view we have a combination mountain, lake, and valley scenery, un- rpassed in beauty and wild grandeur by tiy similar scene perhaps on the Amer- kn continent. ' At our feet lies Lake \alley, more than a thousand feet below. phite ledges gleam through the dark [lies that fringe its sides, which rise in ces to snow-covered peaks. On the 't and northeastward, at a distance of 7 les, repose the deep-blue waters of Lake hoe (Bigler), while beyond, the extrem- of the valley loses itself in the dis- ce. The effect of the whole scene is charming as it is indescribable. Kialie Talaoe. — There is no lake California, indeed there are few any- ere, that will compare with Tahoe for llauty and variety of scenery. It is 25 les long, and about 6 in average width. e surrounding mountains rise from one (| three, and in some cases four thous- d feet above its surface. From the ter's edge to the summits of these luntains, a dense pine forest extends, (fcept at points where a peak of more t n ordinary elevation rears its bald id above the waving forests. The e abounds with fish. Boats and tackle be obtained at the Glenbrook, Lake, Tahoe City hotels. From the Glen- Ibok a delightful excursion can be made Tahoe City, on the opposite side. The ling and hunting on this side is consid- d the best on the lake. Fallen Leaf ke and Tahlae Mounlam should be vis- i. Descending into the valley by a dway excavated from the side of the i|untain, we pass over the east summit jough BaggetCs Pass, and 5 miles be- id find ourselves in the open, level, vated plain of Carson Valley, 2 miles th of Genoa. Jarson Valley is a tract of nearly lev- land, about 30 miles long and 10 \^|e, three-fourths of which is well a^pted for agricultural purposes. Al- ugh shut in by high mountains the east and. on the west, it is If an elevated plateau, more than )0 feet above the level of the sea. ,son lliver, fringed with willows and cl^sional cottonwoods, flows through it a northerly direction. The eastern te of the Sierras is very abrupt, rising sharp angle from the western hmit of the valley, and is covered with pines, though none grow in the valley below. This was once, and is yet to many, the favorite route for overland immigrants to California ; much the largest share of travel now proceeds by stage to Cisco and thence by railway to Sacra- mento, though other routes across the mountains are much used. MOUTE III. SAN FRANCISCO TO PETALUMA AND THE GEYSERS. The route to the far-famed Geysers of Sonoma County from San Francisco is by steamer to Petaluma, and thence by stage, via Santa Rosa and Healdsburg. Leaving the city at Broadway Wharf, the course steered is due north, the same as that to Sacramento and Stock- ton, along the western shore of San Pablo Bay, affording the tourist a view of Tamal Pais and the smiling little vil- lages of San Quentiu and San Rafael. A few miles north of the former place the boat enters the Petaluma Creek or " Slough," and after calling at Lakeville, on the east bank, reaches her landing, 23 miles north of that village and about two miles south of Petaluma, where a horse- car is in waiting to conduct us to the town. The entire distance of 48 miles from San Francisco is usually accom- plished in about four hours. I'etjalTOiM.a,* the county seat of Sonoma County, is pleasantly situated near the head of navigation on Petaluma Creek. Schooners and other small craft navigate the creek to this point. It was laid out in 1852, by Lewis & Hentzelman, near what was originally the Petaluma Grant, and known at that time as the Brewster Survey. It is in the centre of a fertile agricultural region, and large quantities of grain are annually shipped hence. Sonoma County is also famous for its vineyards. Petaluma was incorporated in 1858, and now contains a population of 3,500. It is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water from Artesian wells. Excel- lent building material is obtained within * Anglice, ' EolUng Hills." 251 Healdsburg.] CALIFORNIA. [The Geyserb. the limits of the town. Religious and educational institutions are numerous and flourishing. There are '7 ehureli edifices and 12 public and private schools. Tlio Pacific College (Baptist) is located here. Henshaw Hall has sittings for 750 per- sons. The town contains two flouring- mills, one iron foimdery, a pottery, tan- nery, and several carriage manufactories and brick-yards, and, what is more de- sirable still to the traveller, it has a good hotel — the American House. The Sono- ma County Journal and Gazette is pub- lished weekly. Petaluma is the radiating point of numerous stage lines. The fol- lowing run regularly throughout the year viz., the Petaluma and Gloverdale^ via Healdsburg (32 miles), to Cloverdale (49 miles), connecting there, semi-weekly, with stages to Mendocino (121 miles) ; Petaluma and Duncai'Cs Mill, tri-weekly, via Bloomfield (14 miles) to Duncan's Mill (36 miles), where connection is made to Point Arenas, 50 miles beyond ; and the Petaluma and Bodega line, via Sebastopol (16 miles) to Bodega (26 miles). Leaving Petaluma at 7 a. m., we soon reach Santa Rosa (16 miles), a pleasant lit- tle town with a good hostelry (Colgan's), where passengers making the trip during the winter season have half an hour for dinner. Six miles beyond Santa Rosa we reach Mark West Station and post-office, and in sis miles more Windsor, at both of which places short stoppages are made. Mesild-Slsiii-g, 32 miles from Peta- luma, is a thriving town, and the point of departure for the Geysers. In sum- mer the stages run through from Peta- luma to the Geysers in one day ; but in winter, when the roads are heavy, and in some places well-nigh impassable, travel- lers will find it necessary to remain at Healdsburg (Wright's Hotel) over night, proceeding thence to the springs on horseback. To those who have never visited the Geysers, a good guide is indispensa- ble. Mr. Poss, who is to be found in Healdsburg when not engaged in piloting parties over the road, has the reputation of being the best Geyser man in the county, and tourists will do well to secure his services. Mr. Shafer, the pro- prietor of the Geyser Springs Hotel, will also furnish guides when desired. 252 Leaving Healdsburg early in the moru- ing, a few miles' travel on the road Ijrings the traveller to Rag's Ranch, situated among the foot-hills, 617 feet above the sea-level, and commanding a fine view of Russian River valley, the Coast Range, Mount St. Helens, etc. Prom this point the ascent is gradual for 3 miles, till wc reach Geyser (Godwin's) Peak, which is 3,470 feet high. Prom this point the- view is charming. The whole valley ol Russian River lies at your feet, extendin;.; from southeast and south where it joins; Petaluma Valley, round to the northwest. Beyond the valley extends the long linei of the Coast Mountains. To the south-. east rises Mount St. Helens, considered by many the most beautiful mountain ir. California. Directly south, at a distance of 60 to 70 miles, when the overhaiiginf: fog is not too dense, may be discemeti the waters of the lovely bay and the bluo waves of the mighty Pacific. In finei clear weather the view from this Peak l- amongst the finest to be had in all thi.'i lovely region. The sides of the Peak U. its summit are covered with a thicl? growth of tangled chaparral. Leaviii; the summit, the trail conducts the travel ler along a narrow ridge called by th' unpoetical name of the "Hog's Back,'. which divides the waters of Phdon Hive and Sulphur Creek. Near the foot of th hill stands the Geyser Sjrnngs EoU< which is open to visitors from May t October. The view of the Geysers fror the hotel is an impressive one, more pai ticularly in the morning, when the vapo can be plainly seen issuing from the eart in a hundred different places ; the uumen ous columns uniting at some distanc from the earth, and forming an immenf cloud which overhangs the whole cafioi The unearthly-looking canon in whic most of the springs are situated, mak( up into the mountains directly from tl river. A short distance up the canon a deep shady pool which receives tl united waters of all the -springs above \\ and which atiords a most luxurious bat l Farther up is Proserpine'' s Grotto, a loveu nook, whence glimpses of the narro ■ gorge above with its cascades can be d tained. We are already amid the spring ,■ which become more numerous and noii as we advance up the caSon. Thi i APA.] CALIFORNIA. [Stockton. mbep nearly 200, of every gradation of linperature, and impregnated with all irts of mineral and cliemical compounds. jie Steamboat Geyser, the Devil's Grisi- fll, and the Witehes^ Caldron, are the st noteworthy. After inspecting the ings, it is worth the visitor's while to Imb the mountains on tlie north side of ijb Plutou, and take a view of Clear \lce and the surrounding landscape. It, perhaps, as a late writer has re- mrked, the scene which would delight a Irer of natui'e most can be obtained by ijiug early and walking back half a mile lion the trail which .descends to the ijtel. " It is to see the gorgeous tints cl the eastern sky, as the sun comes cpbing up behind the distant mountains, sp afterward to watch his long slanting lis in the illuminated mist, as they come aming down the canon of the Pluton, ihiug on the water in dots and splashes dazzling light, and tipping the rich dows of the closely-woven foliage with •inge of gold." two days will amply sufiSce to see the (|-sers, the round trip from Healdsburg al back being comfortably accomplished iipvo more. From Healdsburg the re- t ju trip to San Francisco can be profit- ajy made through the Napa valley, via Cjestoga Springs, St. Helens, and Sebasto- p| to Napa, whence a boat leaves daily f( San Francisco. ]ld. Snow falls usually about the mid- e of December, often accumulating to a !pth of 4 or 5 feet, and entirely disap- !ars by the middle of April. The viciu- Y offers every inducement to sportsmen ; 1 kinds of game common to the country )ound, wliile the adjacent streams afford :cellent troutrfishiug. Delightful horse- ick or buggy rides conduct the visitor many interesting points of scenery or )jects of curiosity, among wliich may bo entioned the JF'alls of the Scm Antonio, id the Basalltc Cliff on the North Fork ' the Stanislaus Kiver. In front of the hotel (100 yards stant) stands the stmnp of the Big REE. It measures 96 feet in cir- imference, and is 7 feet high ; a sec- jn of 2 feet was taken from tliis stump, po a section of bark 50 feet long, by pt. Hanford, and carried to New York for exhibition; they are now in Paris. The surface of the stump is smooth, and affords ample space for 32 persons to dance, it being 75 feet in circumference, solid timber. Theatrical performances have also been given upon it by the " Chapman Family" in May, 1855 ; also, the "Robinson Family," July 4, 1855. This monster tree was cut down by bor- ing with augers and sawing the spaces be- tween. It required the labor of 5 men 25 days to effect its fall, the tree standing so nearly perpendicular that a wedge and battering-ram were necessary to cause its fall after being fully cut off. Near the stump Ues a section of the trunk ; this is 25 feet in diameter and 20 feet long ; be- yond lies the immense trunk as it fell, measuring 302 feet from the base of the stun>p to its extremity. Upon this is situated the bar room and ten-pin alley, stretching along its upper surface for a distance of 81 feet, affording ample space for two alley-beds, side by side. About 80 feet from this stump stand the " Two Sentinels," each over 300 feet high, and the larger 23 feet in diameter. The car- riage road, approaching the hotel, passes directly between the " Two Sentinels." South of the " Sentinels," and to the right of the road as you approach them on the hill-side, stands a tree over 14 feet in di- ameter, which has been named " Old Dowd," in honor of the discoverer of the grove. Leaving the hotel, the grove is best entered by the left-hand carriage road. By adopting this route, the trees will be visited in the following order : the "Three Sisters" on the left, about 120 yards from the hotel. Next come the " Eagle," " Calaveras," " Three Graces," "Marble Heart," "Nightingale," "Pio- neer's Cabin," " Mother of the Forest," and " Father of the Forest." The " Ar- bor Vitaj Queen," 335 feet high, said to be the loftiest tree in the grove, stands near the " Fallen Monarch," and is the object of much curiosity. " Hercules," one of the most gigantic trees in the forest, stands leaning in our path ; this tree, with others, has been burned at the base ; it is 326 feet long and 9*7 feet in circumference. A group of seven trees stand around the prone body of the " Father of the Forest," the two largest of which are respectively 255 Mammoth Tree Guove.] CALIFORNIA. [Columbia. 18 and 20 feet diameter and 300 feet high. South of " Hercules," about 80 feet, are several young trees, from 2 to 4 feet di- ameter. N'ear these are two fallen ones, of very large size, and apparently for many years down. South of " Hercules," about 200 yards, are the " Mother and Son," and near these " General Scott." Crossing a small bridge, under which runs the limpid little stream that drains the grove, we ob- serve on the hill-side the " Old Maid," and, 120 feet from her, the " Old Bachelor." This " Old Maid " is 60 feet around her waist and five or sis times as high as the tallest Brobdignagian lass mentioned by GulUver. We nest come to the " Siamese Twins," and a nameless tree standing op- posite them, 310 feet high. West of this tree is the " Granite State," 18 feet diame- ter and 300 feet high. Close at hand is a group of three which have not been named, nil very large and beautiful trees. The "Horseback Ride "we reach next; this is an old fallen trunk of 150 feet in length, hollowed out by the fires which have in days gone by raged through the forest ; the cavity is 12 feet in the clear in the narrowest place, and a person can ride through on horseback a distance of '75 feet. Passing onward, we observe sev- eral yew-trees ; from this timber the In- dians construct their bows, it being ex- ceedingly close-grained and elastic. The next group embraces " Vermont," the " Empire State," " Old Dominion," and "Uncle Tom's Cabin." The "George Washington" is near these, a tree 21 feet in diameter. Twenty feet from it stands " The Leaning Tower," and near these two, from 30 to 100 feet ofi' the road, are several quite young trees. On the west side of the road we observe the " Beauty of the Forest," a magnificent tree, without a blemish in its growth, and 300 feet high. Near it stand two young trees about 6 feet each in diameter-. This brings us to the southern verge of the forest in sight of the hotel, and with the " Two Senti- nels" looming grandly up right before us. Ninety-odd mammoth trees are now standing. Full twenty of these exceed 25 feet in diameter at the base, and several of them are more than 300 feet in height. After seeing the Big Trees of Calaveras, the tourist should, if possible, visit the 256 Naiural Caves and Bridges in the same county. These caves are situated on i what is called McKinney's Humbug, a tributary of the Calaveras River, near the mouth of O'Neill's Creek, 14 miles west of the Big Trees, 16 miles south of Mokelumne Hill, and 9 miles east of San i Andreas. The bridges are on Cayote Creek, midway between Valicita and i McLaue's Ferry, on the Stanislaus River. The entire water of Cayote Creek runs beneath these bridges. The bold, rocky, and precipitous banks of the stream, \ both above and below the bridges, pre- : sent a counterpart of wild scenery in perfect keeping with the strange beauty i and picturesque grandeur of their interior : formation. Colio8sl>ia. — Hotels, Columbia, i Mansion House.. Returning to Murphy's we take the ! stage, via Douglas Flat, crossing the Stan- islaus River at Abbey's Ferry, arriving at Columbia in 8 miles from Murphy's. Columbia' is on the stage line from San Andreas to Sonora. Distance from Stock- ton, 64 miles, from San Andreas 19 miles. The scenery at the crossing of the Stanis- laus is grand, and we find Columbia one of the largest and finest towns in the mining region, having a population of some 2,000, with fine brick stores, hotels, churches, etc. In the vicinity many large mining operations are being carried on, which will interest the traveller. Beyond, a little over a mile, is the thriving village of Springfield, and 2 miles farther lies Shaw's Flat, another important point. Table Ifountain, also, is well worth a visit. Many tunnels are found piercing the mountain for thousands of feet. It is a formation of basaltic lava, and to the geologist its peculiar formation woidd be of much interest. ^ © II o !• a, . — Hotels, Ciit/, Placer, United Stales. Hourly lines of stages connect Colura- bia with Sonora, the county seat of Tuo- 1 lumne County, distance 7 miles. Sonora, > one of the most important raining towusw in the southern mines, contaius abouti 2,700 inhabitants. A fine court-house, i several churches, three or four good hotels, and many fine stores, adorn the place. Daily lines of stages leave and arrive from Stockton and Sacramento, pLTKRVILLE.] CALIFORNIA. [Maeiposa. many routes diverging north and Ah to way-places. poiiltca-ville. — Hotel, Lafayette. 1^6 will now take the stage for Coulter- rb, Mariposa County, passing through laestown, 5 miles ; Montezuma, 9 miles ; Diaese Camp, 11 miles; crossing the fijlumne River at Don Pedro's Bar, 25 DBS, arriving at Coulterville the same ii ; distance from Sonora 40 miles. jJlterville is a small mining town, con- ;aing a few stores, which supply the n^rsinthe vicinity. It is on one of ;h[four routes to the famous Yo-Semite P'ley, and has this (as it will pi'ove to nlv) strong recommendation, that it can jeltravelled the earliest in the season. 2;'iages, saddle-horses, guides, etc., can 3e|iad of Messrs. Smith & Scott, pro- piitors of the old-estabhshed stables. B,OUTE F. TATEE MARIPOSA GROVES AND TEE YO-SEMITE Y ALLEY. a I* i p o s a. — Hotels, GischeVs, Fthklin House.-— From. Coulterville we iteach Mariposa by mules, crossing the Vltjed River, distance 29 miles ; or by ctj'ning toward the plains and taking a jiriitous route by stage, 50 miles. Ma- ■ip a, the county seat of Mariposa L'o'ty, is 90 miles from Stockton, with ivhh it is connected by a daily line of sta- jesjihe trip occupying 25 hours. It is the nq southerly of all the mining towns of mlrtance in the State, and contains ihm 1,300 inhabitants. There are valu- ibljquartz leads, and rich flat, gulch, and biWiggings, in the vicinity. It is here, in |e valley of the Mariposa Creek, that thaelebrated Fremont Grant is located, rhte is a good trail' from Mariposa to thejro-Semite Valley, distant 51 miles, incjto the Big Trees, 31 miles. J. R. Me|eady will supplj' good livery. '^pile in this neighborhood, the traveller shold not omit to visit the Mariposa Grove. rhfeh not so well known nor so famous IS le Calaveras Grove, it nevertheless forii! one of the great natural wonders of t| State, and will amply repay the time iniflabor of reaching it. It is distant fronMariposa 31 miles, and from Stock- ton 121 miles. The group of trees em- brace about 600, covering between 200 and 300 acres of land, and lie in a trian- gular form. They were first discovered in August, 1855. The South and Fresno Groves, the latter 6 to 8 miles distant from the Mariposa Grove, are also worth visit- ing if the tourist has time. mie "^©"Semtite "Valley. Innumerable lessons to relate And myriad voices rushing to baptize These chosen lips, which send into the skies Their oracles, to awe and elevate. The world's chief mouth-piece is this marvellous gate, That lavish nature wholly sanctifies ' With majesty and beauty. Here raj eyes Some revelation seem to penetrate — For God, begetting mysteries from the first, All-glorified, stood down upon the rock. And smiting through, the curious earth was riven — A thousand silver arteries were burst — The mountains staggered from the fearful shock — Her heart lay bare to the soft eyes of Heaven. Routes, Distances, etc. — The princi- pal starting-point to the To-Semite Valley, as already stated, is Stockton. Thence there are four main routes, viz. : via Big Oak Flat, Coulterville, Bear Valley, and Mari- posa. That by Big Oak Flat is the shortest and affords a view of the Golden Rock Water Co.'s flume, 264 feet high, and 2,200 feet long. That via Coulterville can be travelled the earhest in the season, and has the beautifully unique " Bower Cave " on the way. That by Bear Valley and Mari- posa aflbrds the earhest opportunity of visiting the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, and gives the best general view of the valley. There is yet another route, indi- rectly — tiiat via Copperopolis to tbe Cala- veras Big Tree Grove. Going via Big Oak Flat, you change stages at Chinese Camp ; via Coulterville, change at the Crimea Hoase. From Stockton, via Big Oak Flat : Miles. Copperopolis* , .30 Chinese Camp 15 Jacksonville 4 Big Oak Flat '.'.'.'.'.'. 8 Sprague's Ranch 9^ Golden Hock Flume 8J * Parties bound for the Calaveras Bis: Trees, take the Murphy's stage at Coppciopolis. 257 The To-Semite.] CALIFORNIA. [The Yo-Semite. Hardin's Eanch T Crane Creek (>} Pividintr Kidge 41- Tamarack Flat S Top of Mountain 3 Foot of Mountain (Yo-SemitL') 2-J Forks of Trail, near Ferry 4i Hutchings's li Total lOS Murphy's 20 Bis Trees 15 Murphy's to Sonora 14 Chinese Camp 10-J- Big Oak Flat 12 Chinese Camp to Coulterville, via Crimea House 2T From Stockton, via Coulterville. Knight's Ferry 36 Crimea House 12 Don Pedro's Bar 9 Coulterville 14 Bower Cave 12 Black's , 5 Deer Flat 6 Hazel Green 6 Crane Flat 6 Junction of Big Oak Flat Trail 2i Tamarack Flat 3 Hutchuigs's llj Total 122 Prom Stockton, via Bear Yalley and Ma- riposa. Morley's (Tuolumne Eiver) 45 Snellings 12 Hornitos 12 Bear Valley 9 Mariposa 12 "White & Hatch's J2 Clark's Eanch (South Fork Merced) 18 To Mariposa Big Trees, 6 miles. Alder Creek 6i Empire Camp S "Westfall's Cabin 3i Inspiration Point 5 Foot of Trail 3 Hutchings's 5 Total 141 Procuring animals at Coulterville for the trip, and providing ourselves with blankets and provisions, we start for the Yo-Semite. Four days are needed to do the trip com- fortably and profitably. At a distance of 12 miles is Bower Cave, a singular, grotto- like formation, that lures the traveller aside for a few moments. Passing on to Deer Flat, 23 miles from Coulterville, we camp for the night. The next day we reach Crane Flat, 12 miles farther, in time 258 for an early lunch. Here the snow-clad Sierras begin to rise in serrated peaks above the horizon. To the right, about 2 miles distant, is a grove of mammoth oak-trees, similar to those in Calaveras County, but fewer in number. One of these, consisting of two joined at their base, is called the Siamese Twins, and is 114 feet in circumference. Two houi-s will bring us to Inspiration Point, 9 miles beyond, whence we first look down into the wonderful cleft of the Sier- ras called the Yo-Semite. Descending into the valley, it is 7 miles to the foot of the trail, and 6 miles thence to "Hutch- ings's." After resting here overnight, we will inspect the wonders of the valley. The Yo-Semite vaUey is between Y and 8 miles long, rarely exceeding a mile in width, walled in by perpendicular rocksi from 3,000 to 5,000 feet high on either' hand. The Merced Eiver, which winds i through the grassy meadows at the bottom of the valley, receives several tributaries, which pour over these granite walls at vari- ous points, forming waterfalls on a magnifi- cent scale. The most remarkable of these has been called the Yo-Semite Fall. It de- scends in two unbroken sheets, the uppei one 1,600 feet in height, and the lower one 600 feet, while the rapids between the tw( have a fall of 434 feet, giving the tota height 2,634 feet. Among the other fall: are the Fall of the North Fork of thi Merced, about 750 feet high ; the Pi-wy ack, or Vernal FaU, about 300 feet higli the Yo-wi-ye, or Nevada Fall, about 70( feet high ; and numerous others of lesse note. Not the least remarkable object of interest are the two domes, presentin nearly perpendicular faces on opposit sidesof the valley. The North Dome, o To-coy-ee, is about 3,'725 feet high. Th South Dome, or Tis-sa-ack, is 6,000 fee' the lower two-thirds of which is a shec perpendicular rock, so that a stone tosse from its top would fall at its base. _T1 volume of water pouring over the varioi . falls varies according to the season of tli year, being quite inconsiderable intl, month of September ; uid one or two litt lakes gem the vaUey. As much ciuiosi is felt among travellers to learn the ])r ; cise height of these mountains and watc falls, I "append the following table, cat . fully compiled from official sources : i N Jose.] CALIFORNIA. [San Jose. TABLE OF ALTITUDES IJ\r YO-SEMITE VALLEY. WATERFAILS. Height Indian name. Signification. American name. aJjove valley. D-ho-no Spirit of the evil wind Bridal Veil 940 feet. Iing-oo-too-koo-ya .The tall and slender fall The RibbonFall. . 3,300 feet. b-Semite Large grizzly bear 2,634 feet. (First fall, 1,600 feet ; second fall, 434 feet ; third fall, 600 feet.) wy-ack Cataract of Diamonds Vernal 350 feet. b-wi-ye Meandering , Nevada '700 feet. Uool-we-ack South Canon 600 feet. MOUNTAINS. i-sa-ack Goddess of the Valley South Dome 6,000 feet. Cloud's Rest 6,450 feet. -coy-ee Shade to Indian Baby-basket. .North Dome 3,725 feet. !lih-ta Martyr Mountain ,.. . .Cap of Liberty, . .4,600 feet. le-wah-lam Mt. Starr King. . .5,600 feet. ; -na-ting Law-oo-too . . Bear-skin Mountain Glacier Rock 3,700 feet. '.-toch-ah nu-lah Great Chief of the Valley.. El Capitan 3,300 feet. ■ ah-wah-le-na Three Graces 3,750 feet. ]|jim-pom-pa-sus Mountains playing leap-frog. . . .Three Brothers. . .4,200 feet. " o-see-nah Chuck-ka. .Large acorn cache Cathedral Rock. . .2,400 feet. Sentinel Dome 4,000 feet. ]}ya SentmelRock 3,270 feet. Che best general view of this unrivalled ley is to be had from Inspiration Point the Mariposa trail, 8 miles from VtcJiings's. MOUTE VI, FRANCISCO TO SAST JOSE AND THE ALMADEN MINES. IFrom San Francisco southward, the tfveller has choice of railway or steam- lit travel to San Jose. The following a the stations on the railway line : 1 ?sion, 3i miles ; Bernal, 4|- miles ; £ 1 Miguel, 6J miles ; San Bruno, 14J E es ; San Mateo, 20| miles ; Belmont, 'Jirailes ; Redwood City, 28 miles ; May- f d, 34^ miles ; Mountain View, 4d| r es ; Santa Clara 46^ miles ; San Jose, fiimiles. San Jose. — Hotel, the Auserais J^iise. 1 daily line of steamers runs to Alviso, siated on a slough at the southern ex- t:jnity of the bay, and there connects by Bges with San Jose, 7 miles distant. This is a delightful trip in the summer season. From Oakland, opposite San Francisco, a stage runs to San Jose, via San Lorenzo, 12 miles; and Warm Springs, 30 miles. San Jose, the garden city of California, is situated in the midst of a very fertile valley. It is the third city of the State, contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and has some fine public buildings and many elegant private residences. Besides the' beauty of the valley of San Jose and its climate of perpetual spring, its gardens and Artesian wells, many places in the vi- cinity are worthy of a visit, especially the Quicksilver Mines, and the Missions of Santa Clara and San Joso. The New Almaden mines ai-e about 12 miles south, and Monterey, on the coast, 126 miles. The new Court-Hoiose is a handsome, commodious structure just completed. It is the largest public build- ing of its kind in the State. The Con- vent and Seminary of Notre Dame, and the Cathedral, the College, University, and schools in the adjoining village of Santa Clara, are well worth visiting. San Jos6 and Santa Clara are connected by stage 269 ViSALIA.] CALIFORNIA. [Los Angeles. Avith Santa Cruz (35 miles); Lexington and San Juan (42 miles) ; Monterey (80 miles). From San Jose southward we can select between the route, via Hot Springs and Santa Barbara to Los Angeles, or that to Visalia. Proceeding on our jour- ney by the latter, we emerge from the valley of the Santa Clara River through the Facheco Pass in the Coast Range, into the valley of the San Joaquin. Travelling iip the western side of the valley, we first touch the river at Fire- baum's Ferry, 165 miles from San Fran- cisco. Continuing on the same side we pass the great bend of the San Joaquin, and soon I'each Fresno City, 182 miles from San Francisco. Crossing the little stream which seems to connect Tulare Lake with the San Joaquin, we cross King's River, 40 miles beyond, and soon arrive at Visalia 248 miles from San Francisco, and 192 miles from San Jose. "^■^ i s ss, 1 i a . — Hotels, Exchange, Warren's. — This is the only town of much importance between San Jose and Los Angeles on the Overland Route, and contains about 1,200 inhabitants. It is located on the banks of the Kaweah River, about IS miles from the mountains on the east, and 20 from Tulare Lake on the west, in the centre of a large body of oak timber, and in the midst of a rich alluvial delta. The several creeks north and south of Visalia in its immediate vicinity, spread out on the large meadows and lose themselves and their channels beibre reaching the great Tulare Lake, which ordinarily has no well-defined out- let itself. The Coso silver mines lie about 100 miles east, and are reached by a trail over the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Stage Hues to Hornitas (120 miles), via Millertou's and Mariposa Creek. Proceeding southward, we cross Tule River, 27 miles ; Kern River, 8*7 miles ; arriving at Tejon Carion, 128 miles from Visalia, and 376 from San Francisco. S^ort "Tejoii. — Tejon Pass is at the head of the San Joaquin Valley. The Coast Range and Sieri-a Nevada, gradually converging, join at this point. A fort has been built high up in this ro- mantic pass, about 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, where there is a small spot of level land between the mountains, 260 with fertile soil, grass, a pleasant brook, and fine oak-trees. From Tejon Canon we descend into and cross the arid plains of Palm Valley, part of the Great Basin, whose waters never find the sea. Then our road lies over the Coast Range, through the San Francisquito Canon which ojjens into Santa Clara Valley, and crossing the Santa Clara River, our way lies through the San Fernando Pass, over a spur of the Coast Range, whence we emerge into the vine-clad valley of the Rio Los An- 1 geles, and in afefv hours reach the "City i of the Angels," 491 miles from San Fran- cisco, or via- Hot Springs, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Barbara, 472 miles. luos Aiag-cles. — Hotels, Bella Union, La Fayclte. — Los Angeles is situated near the foot of the Coast Range, on the Los Angeles River. Mostofthei land in the valley which can be irrigated is planted with vines. The city contains ' about 5,000 inhabitants. The houses are many of them of the Spanish style, one story, with flat roofs covered with asphal- • tum, which abounds in the vicinity. On the northwestern side of the town, and very near the busiest part of it, is a hill I about 60 feet high, whence an excellentr view of the whole jjlace may be obtained. Along the banks of the river for railcs' are situated the vineyai'ds and orange- groves, the pride of Los Angeles. Vast tracts of the fertile plains and rivei' bottoms are irrigated by the waters of the river, producing every variety of fruit and vege- table common to the warm and temper-] ate climes. In the months of Marchi and April, looking over these fertiki plains, covered with the richest verdure the snow-clad heights beyond contrasi beautifully Avith the flowers at their feet . To the east. Mount San Bernardino rise; covered with snow, 80 miles distant. It; altitude is about 8,000 feet, and it marki the site of the pleasant valley in whiul; i the village of San Bernardino is situated ; Silver lodes of more or less promise bavn been discovered in various parts of tb neighboring mountains. A rich tin niinn^ has been discovered at Temescal, abou 60 miles distant, on the Overland Route ,• The San Gabriel placer gold mines li about 20 miles to the northeast. Th sites of several old missions are in L& Diego.] CALIFORNIA. [Santa Barbara. ijgeles County. From Los Angeles ti're are several stage lines, affording cpmunication with all tovrns on the Ast and in the interior. The principal c'these are the overland line, via Tucson ail Prescott, to St. Louis, Mo. ; the San Rgo line, via San Luis Eey (93 miles), to Sii Diego (130 miles) ; San Bernardino Ik, via Cocamongo, to San Bernardino (65 njes) ; the San Pedro line (daily), via Los Cprvos (11 miles), to San Pedro (26 miles); ail the Clear Creek line, via San Fer- n|ido (31i miles), to the mines, Havilah Cjlj' (140 miles). The route from Los Aceles to Prescott and Central Arizona iay way of San Bernardino and Hardv- yje; distance, 430 miles. The entire djanco from San Francisco to St. Louis, b|the Ovei'land Mail Route through Los !;eles, is 2,880 miles, the last 353 of ch is performed by raOroad. The ance is usually accomplished in 22 to lays. The traveller can obtain meals at vay-stations, which occur from 15 to miles apart. He rides night and without cessation, soon getting used he motion of the stage so that he get refreshing sleep at night, and ves well and hearty at his journey's The distance from Los Angeles t. Louis is 2,390 miles, divided as ws : Tc" From Los Angeles Miles. Miles ort Tuma 288 ucson 281 .569 11 Paso 839 908 |ort Chadbourne 428 1,386 ed Kiver 381 1,720 ■rt Smith 192 1,912 ,. Louis -..4T8 2,390 om Los Angeles a pleasant journey ;be made to San Diego in two days, ng out for Anaheim, 30 miles, we 3I along the coast, passing through Juan Capistrano, 60 miles ; San Luis Re 93 ; San Dieginto, 105 ; arriving at Sa Diego, 130 miles from Los Angeles. an. ]> i c g' O . — Hotel, Franklin Hue. — San Diego is a small town of 500 inl jitants, situated upon a harbor of the salt name. San Diego harbor, next to tlKof San Francisco, is the best on the coit of California, being well protected, cajcious, and having a fine depth of war. There is nothing remarkable ib(t the town 01 surrounding scenery. A fine grazing country lies back of it, abounding in large cattle-ranches. San Diego is connected with San Francisco by an ocean steamer, which makes two trips a month, touching at the intermediate ports of San Pedro, the ports of Los An- geles, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Monterey, and sometimes Santa Cruz. Should the traveller prefer to return to San Francisco by land, he will find the route along the shore very pleasant, full of beautiful and romantic scenery ; the mountains of the Coast Range and its spurs rising loftily on his right, and at times the waves of the sea dashing at his feet. In proceeding north- ward then, the first point of interest is Santa Barbara, about 180 miles from San Diego by water, and 100 from Los Angeles by land. ^smta lSaB-l>ara. — ^Hotel, City Hotel. — The steamers afford a fine view of the coast, as they pass near the land ; and approaching Santa Barbara, the view is very imposing. High I'anges of mountains bound the view to the east- ward, while the beautiful valley in which the town is situated, stretches far to the northward, finely relieved by a back- ground of misty mountains, grand in out- line. This place, with the other ports along the coast, is famous for the hide business, formerly the staple product of California. Santa Barbara has no pro- tected harbor like San Pedro, and other places along the coast ; it is only an open roadstead, dangerous during a southeast- er, which, however, occurs only during the rainy season. This town, hke Mon- terey and the other old places in Califor- nia, retains much of its old Spanish look — the buildings, of adobes or sun-dried bricks, roofed with tiles, presenting a venerable appearance. A ride to the Missimi of Santa Barbara, about three miles distant, is reiJlete with interest. The climate below Point Conception (which lies between Monterey and Santa Bar- bara) is quite mild, the northwest winds winds which prevail in the vicinity of San Francisco not being felt in this latitude. Continuing on our way iip the coast, we touch the shore 110 miles above Santa Barbara, for the benefit of those who wish to go to San Luis Obispo, the county scat of San Luis Obispo County, and a 261 Santa Cruz.] CALIFOENIA. 1 [PoiHXitiai small, unimportant Spanish town, in the midst of a beautiful grazing country. Moiitei'ey, — Hotel, Washington. The large open bay of Monterey lies about 120 miles north of San Luis Obispo, and 78 south of San Francisco by water. The town of Monterey is beautifully situated upon the southern extremity of this bay. It was formerly the seat of government, and principal port on the coast of Cali- fornia. But since the rise of San Fran- cisco, its commerce and business have dwindled away, and now it is one of the most quiet places in the State, contain- ing about 1,500 inhabitants. The view of the town from the anchorage is very fine, especially if visited iu the months of April or May. The green slopes upon which the town is built, contrast beauti- fully with the forest of pines vi^hich grow upon the ridges beyond. The Eocky Bluffs afford fine views. Saiifta CtniK, — Hotel, JExcliange, It is 20 miles across the bay from Mon- terey to Santa Cruz, the county seat of Santa Cruz County. The town contains about 800 inhabitants, and is surrounded by a mouutainous country covered with immense forests of redwood timber. The Mission Church is an object of interest. The bluff and beach afford pleasant walks or drives. The distance from Santa Cruz to San Francisco by water is about 70 miles. To San Jose and Santa Clara — delightful watering-places — cross- ing the Santa Cruz Mountains, via Sali- nas, Natividad, and San Juan, the dis- tance is 80 miles. JROUTE VII. SAN FBANOISCO UP THE COAST. Steamers leave San Francisco semi- monthly for Oregon, Washington Terri- tory, and Victoria, in the British posses- sions, touching at Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Trinidad, Crescent City, Port Oxford, Portland, and sometimes Vancouver, on the Columbia River, and various points on Puget Sound, and Victoria on Vancouver's Island. Sailing vessels are also constant- ly leaving San Francisco for Humboldt Bay, Port Oxford, the Columbia Eiver, Puget Sound, and Vancouver's Island. Many of the northern mines near the coast are easily accessible from HuinboKlt Bay, Trinidad, Crescent Citv, and Port Oxford in Oregon, the gold range ap- proaching the coast. Coal is also found in immense beds in the vicinity of Coosa Bay, Oregon. Embarking on one of tiie California Steam Navigation or California and Oregon Steamship Company's lines for a trip up the coast, we touch at Mendoci- no, or pass it, 180 miles from San Fran- cisco ; Hiunboldt Bay, upon which the thriving towns of Eureka and Areata arc situated, 230 miles ; arriving at Crescent < City, some 300 miles from San Francisco. % Ci°escemt City. — Hotels, Patching House, American. — Crescent City, the county seat of Del Norte County, is &■ thriving place of some 600 inhabitants, t Most of the interior mining localities' through a considerable range of country « obtain their supplies through this post. Extensive veins of copper have been dis- covered in the vicinity, some of whicl: hare been worked with profit. The sur rounding region also abounds in gold am; other minerals, but for want of systeraalii supplies of water have not yet been mucl; worked. Proceeding north we touch at Port Ox ford (70 miles), a port from which mucl lumber is exported ; Fort Umpqua (14( miles), near the mouth of Umpqua River which di-ains a fertile and productive vallev and arrive at Astoria on the Columbii River, some 300 miles north of Cresccu City, and about 600 miles north of Sai Francisco. The scenery of the Columbii Eiver is wild and grand beyond descrif tion. Vessels of the largest size proceci up the river from Astoria, at the moutl to Vancouver, a distance of about 10 miles, and beyond to the falls of the rive- where the Cascade Eange of mountain cross. Some of the mountain peaks o the Cascade Eange, among which may I mentioned Mount Hood, Mount Jeft>npi, and Mount St. Helms, rival those of ill Andes. They are covered with perpetun snow, and can be seen from various par | of the river. Portland, the chief city of Oregon, - situated on the Willamette Eiver, nei t^ its confluence with the Columbia, ai contains about 8,000 inhabitants. Tl Willamette Eiver, flowing north betffci Iget Sotjnp.] CALIFORNIA. [Victoria t'fe Coast and Cascade Ranges of moun- liiis, empties into the Columbia about lb miles from the ocean. The valley (the Willamette is the garden of Ore- m, and contains a large population of jl-manent settlers, many of whom had l|lated on farms some time before the ^Jtlement of California by Americans cbmenced. A month's travel to the *ious places and points of interest on tl Columbia would amply repay the tirist, and can be made from San Fran- cpo at an expense of from 150 to 200 cjllars, including the fare each way. (pr continuation of the route, see chap- tfe on Oregon and Washington.) iPnget Sound. — Proceeding up t| coast we find no other seaport till we rich Puget Sound, one of the most mag- Bicent harbors in the world. While the sind is so deep that vessels of the Liviest burden can traverse any part o|t with safety, it is nowhere too deep fl convenient anchorage ; and in many pjces vessels can ride boldly up to the s re for purposes of loading, without t' intervention of wharves. The lumber fijn some of the saw-mills on the sound it hipped in this way. Puget Sound is rijched by a daily line of steamers from pi'tland, Oregon, to Monticello, Wash- iiton, situated on the Cowlitz River, 2 nes above its mouth, thence by stage tcjOlympia twice a week. Entire dis- tijce from Portland to Olympia, 92 miles. F|m Olympia the route is continued tri- wlkly, to Victoria, Vancouver's Island, bpteamer (New World), which touches aihe principal landings on the sound. Ariculture and the manufacture of lum- bj form the leading interests of this r(|on. Four thrifty towns have sprung upn different inlets of the sound, viz. : Itt 7'ownsend, with 500 inhabitants and tllCustom-House ; Olympia, with 1,000 imlntants, the capital of Washington Tffitcry, situated in the vicinity of the siprb water-power of Tum-water ; Steila- ccM, with 800 inhabitants ; and Seattle, 5(| are the termini of trails and mili- tai roads leading through the Cascade Rijge to the mineral regions beyond. mdbi/s Island, at the entrance of the soid, contains many fine farms, and its int bluffs, rising boldly from the ipr's edge, are very beautiful in spring and summer. Several majestic mountain peaks are visible from the waters of the sound, forming some of the most sublime scenes on the western coast of America. Among these are Mount Baker, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Rainier, whose summits are from 12,000 to 15,000 feet above the level of the sea, and covered with perpetual snow. Some of these have shown volcanic action within the last few years. Mount BaTcer, 14,000 feet high, was in active eruption in 1860. From Port Townsend the traveller can reach the mouth of the Columbia, or in- deed Sacramento in California, without returning by the ocean route. Proceed- ing by steamer to the head of the sound at Olympia, or by stage on the west side of the sound to the same point, he can proceed from thence through the Cowlitz farms to Vancouver on the Columbia River. Vancouver, the present capital, is one of the most promising places in Washington Territory, containing about 1,000 inhabitants besides the soldiers of the United States military post stationed near. The distance from Vancouver to Portland is 18 miles, and the entire dis- tance from Port Townsend to Portland is about 230 miles. From Portland the daily overland mail to Sacramento takes the traveller up the valley of the Willa- mette, across IJmpqua and Rogue Rivers to Jacksonville, and thence through Treka, Shasta, and Marysville to Sacra- mento, 642 miles from Portland, making the longest stage route in the Union, with the exception of those across the continent between California and the Mis- souri River. The eastern slope of the Cascade Range in Washington Territory, though but partially developed, gives indications of great mineral wealth. The Wenatchee, Samilkameen, and Rock Creek gold regions, have attracted many adventurers, and yielded their treasures bountifully. From Steilacoom a military wagon-road leads through a pass in the Cascade Range to Walla-Walla, 250 miles southeast on the Columbia River. Be- yond Walla-Walla lies the Nez Perces gold region. Victoria, on Vancouver Island, the principal town of the British posses- sions, contains about 8,000 inh.abitants. It is the entrepot of goods for Frascr 263 KOUTES.] CALIFORNIA. [Routes. River. The gold diggings of the latter are still being successt'ully worked. New Westminster, the capital of British Co- lumbia, and next to Victoria the largest town in tlie British dominions on the Pacific, is situated on Fraser River, near the head of navigation. The mines and inhabitants are protected from the depre- dations of Indians by the presence of soldiers at Fort Hope, Fort Yale, etc. (See chapters on Oregon and Washing- ton Territory.) 8TJMMAKT OF EOTJTES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MilcB. Mendocino 128 Eureka 225 Trinidad 240 Crescent City 280 Port Oxford 340 Fort Umpqua 400 Astoria 558 Portland 642 Vancouver 682 Victoria 753 Port Townsend 773 Seattle 810 Steilacoom 836 Olympia 855 Santa Cruz SO Monterey 92 San Luis Obispo 200 Santa Barbara 2S8 San Pedro 373 Los Angeles 895 San Diego 456 San Quentin 15 Petaluma 48 Healdsburg J 32 Geysers (50 Sonoma 45 Vallejo 25 Napa. . , 50 Sulphur Springs 18 Suistin 60 Benicia 80 Sacramento 120 Stockton 120 Alviso 45 San Jos6 52 Santa Clara 54 Kedwood City 30 Visalia 248 Fort Tejon 876 Los Angeles 491 Fort Yuma 779 Tucson 1060 Mesilla 1353 El Paso 1399 Monterey 180 Oakland 8 SUMMARY OF ROUTES FROM STOCKTON TO Miles. Mokelumne Hill 50 San Andreas 45 Murpliy's 60 Big Trees 81 264 Knight's Ferry 86 Soiiora |>i Columbia eg Coulterville 85 Yo-Semite 180 Mariposa 91 SUMMARY OF ROUTES PROM SACRAMENTO TO Mila. Marysville ) iM a Colusa 120 f Eed Bluff 275 Nevada 70 j Auburn 40 ' Folsom 22 Alabaster Cave 86 PLacerville 50 Lake Tahoe 110 Carson City 145 Virginia City. 163 Jackson 60 Mokelumne Hill. 55 Sonora 80 Stockton 45 Napa 61 SUMMARY OP ROUTES FROM MARYSVILLE TO MUei. Oroville 28 Eed Bluff 92 Shasta 12S Yreka 236 Downie ville 76 Nevada 40 Auburn 40 Colusa 28 All the nmnerous mining towns in the i counties of Calaveras, Tuolumne, Stanis-i laus, Merced, Mariposa, etc., can be reach-- ed by one or other of tlie above routes, or by lines of coaches in connection with the abore, departing and arriving with excel- lent dispatch. As times of departure and arrival, kinds of conveyance and fares, however, are subject to frequent change,i it will always be advisable for the travel- ler to consult local authorities on these points. RAILROADS. Miles, Central Pacific — Sacramento to Cisco 93 Sacramento Valley — Sacramento to Fol- som 22i Placermlle and Sacramento Valley — Fol- som to Shingle Springs 26 California Central — Folsom to Lincoln. . . 21 Yuba — Lincoln to 16 Northern California — Marysville to Oro- ville ^ 26 San Francisco and San Jose — San Fran- cisco to San Jose 50 ' Western Pacific— San Jos6 to Alameda Ca- non 20 , San Francisco and Alameda — Encinal to Hnyward's 1* Napa YnUeii — Suscol to Napa * 6>«/lZ««c?— Oakland Point to San Antonio.. 6 REGON.] OREGON. [Oregon. OEEGOlsr. Oregon was organized as a Territory igust 16, 1848, and was admitted into 3 Union as a State, February 16, 1859. lies upon the Pacific, north of Califor- i, and contains an area of 95,2'7-± square les. The first visit of the white race to egon was in l'7'7o, wlien a Spanish voy- eur entered the Juan del Fuca Straits. ree years afterwatd (^vS), the cele- ited navigator. Captain Cook, sailed ng its shores. la 1791 the waters of tj! Columbia River were discovered by (ptain Gray, of Boston. An expedition, c exploring party, was sent out in the j,r 1804 by the United States, com- cjnded by Lewis and Clark, who wintered iiH805-'6 at the mouth of the Columbia. Bim that period the coast has been the r ort of both English and American fur- ti icrs. By the treaty concluded with Great I tain in 1846, this great territory, which b . up to that time been jointly occupied b English and American adventurers, was ded — the one taking the portion above parallel of 49° north latitude, and the obr all the country south of that line. Imigration to Oregon was earnestly Cdmenced in 1839, the first settlers sing through the South Pass into V lamette Valley. For some years the scjlement of the country was retarded by more brilliant attractions of Califor- though the ultimate result of this ;hborship will be to stimulate develop- t. /'ashington Territory, on the north, a part of Oregon until the year 1853, 'n it was erected into a distinct govern- t. he coast of Oregon, viewed from thisea, is, like that of California, stern I'ockbound, except tJiat while in the . 12 latter region the nearer mountains follow the line of the shore, in Oregon they ap- proach the ocean at a great angle. The lower or Pacific country occupies an area. of from Yo to 120 miles wide, in which lie the great valleys of Willamette, Umpqua, and Rogue Rivers. Though the valley lands of the Willamette and the adjacent regions are extremely fertile, yet the greater portion of Oregon is not well adapted for tillage. Nature here assumes its sublimest forms, and the scenery is among the grandest to be found on the entire continent. Heavy rains usually prevail in December, January, and Febru- ary, at which season the roads are well- nigh impassable. The climate here, as on all the Pacific coast, is milder than in corresponding latitudes near the At- lantic. The winters are comparatively brief, and the snows, when snow falls at all, are very light. Oregon is prolific in grain, grass, fruit, and timber. Gold is found in various parts of southern Oregon, and silver, lead, and copper in the Cas- cade Mountains. Coal is abundant at Coose Bay and other points. Iron is to be had in abundance within a few miles of Portland. (See Routes.) Rivers. — Tlie Colum'bia. Kiver, of Oregon, is the greatest on the Pacific slope of this continent. It rises in a small lake among the western accliv- ities of the Rocky Mountains, and flows in a devious course 1,200 miles to the Pa- cific, forming a great portion of the divid- ing line between Oregon and Washington Territory on the north. Its first meander- ings are northward along the base of its great hill ranges, and afterward its course is due west to the sea, though very capri- ciously. It is a rapid river, pushing its 265 Willamette Vallky.] OREGON. [Mount Hood way through mighty mountain passes, and in many a cataract of marvellous beauty. In its course through the Cascade Range, it falls into a series of charming rapids, which may be numbered among the chief natural attractions of the country. The tide sets up to this point, 140 miles. For 30 or 40 miles from its mouth, the Columbia spreads out into a chain of bay- like expansions, from 4 to V miles or more in width. Its average width is less than a mile. The shores are lined with grand mountain heights, making the landscape everywhere extremely interesting and impressive. We should far exceed our present opportunity in attempting even the briefest catalogue of the pictures on these noble waters. Vessels of 200 or 300 tons' burden may ascend to the foot of the cascades, of which we have already spoken. Above this point the river is navigable for small vessels only, and but at intervals in its course. Tlie ^Tillasiiette ISiver flows from the foot of the Cascade Range, 200 miles, first northwest, and then north to the Columbia, 8 miles below Fort Van- couver. Its way is through the beautiful valley lands which bear its name, and upon its banks are Oregon City, Portland, Corvallis, Eugene City, and other thriving places. Ocean steamers ascend 15 miles to Portland. Ten miles beyond this point, a series of fine falls occur in the passage of the river, above which the waters are again navigable, perhaps 60 miles, for small steamboats. The Falls of the Willamette is a famous place for the capture of the finest salmon. Among the tributaries of the Willamette are the Tualatin, Yamhill, La Creole, Luckamute, Long Tom, and Mary Rivers, coming from the base of the Callapoosa and Coast Range Mountains, and the McKenzie, Santiam, Pudding, and Clackamus from the Cascade Range. Tlie Valley of tlae "'PSrilla- Maette is a most fertile region, and very attractive in its natural curiosities. It is 50 miles by 100 in extent, and sub- sists nearly one-half of the entire popula- tion of the State. Many remarkable insta,nces are to be found here of those eccentric mountain formations known as Beetlers — huge, conical, insulated hills. Near the mouth of the Coupe Rivei", there 266 are two of these heights, which lower u[ 1,000 feet, but half a mile removed fron each other at their base. They are calle Pkgah and Sinai. They stand in tli( midst of a plain of many miles in extent At a point near the Riekreall River, in tin Willamette Valley, no less than sevfi snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Rangi may be seen. Tlie Cascade Raug-e include; some of the loftiest mountain peaks it the United States, among which arc Moun Hood, Mount Jefferson, and Mount PittI The fii'st of this grand trio has a volcani( crest 14,000 feet above the level of tlii sea.* Between the Blue Mountains am the Cascade Range lie a number of smal lakes. The view from the summit of Moue Hood is thus described by a recent visili or: "From south to north," he says-: "its whole line is at once under th eye from Diamond Peak to Ranier, • distance of not less than 400 mile:, Within that distance are Mounts St. He en. Baker, Jefferson, and the Three Sii ters, making, with Mount Hood, eifrl snowy mountains. Eastward the Bin Mountains are indistinct view for at lea; 500 hundred miles in length, and lyinl between us and them are the broad plait- of the Des Chutes, John Day's, and Xiw: tilla Rivers, 150 miles in width. On tl west, the piny crests of the Cascades ci clear against the sky, with the Willamct Valley sleeping in quiet beauty at tlic feet. The broad belt of the Columb winds gracefully through the evergrw, valley toward the ocean. Within the: wide hmits is every variety of mounta and valley, lake and prairie, bold beetlit precipices, and graceful rounded sumrai! blending and melting away into eai other, forming a picture of unutterab magnificence. On its northern sicl Mt. Hood is nearly vertical for 7,000 fee there the snows of winter accumula until they reach the very summit, bi, when the summer thaw commences, r this vast body of snow becomes disin * The folloT\ing altitudes were computed Professor Wood, in a recent survey and expl ation : "At the summit of the Cascade Kan I and foot of Mount Hood proper, 4,400 feet ; ' the limit of forest trees, about 9,000 feet ; at ' highest limit of vefretation, 11,000 feet; at ' summit of the mountain, 17,000 feet. iRTLAND.] OREGON. [Dalles City. ated at OBce, and, in a sweeping ava- iche, carrying all before it, buries itself tbe deep furrows at its base, and leaves |e precipice bare." fl-'orest Xi-ees. — Oregon, like Cal- ijjrnia, is famous for its wonderful forest |owth. The Lambert pine, a species of. 1^ sometimes reaches, in the lower part the country, the magnificent height of ;!0 feet. PORTLAND. Hotels, Arriggoitih^ What Cheer, Lin- n, Western, and New Columbian. (Portland, the largest and most impor- ijit town in Oregon, is pleasantly lo- (|;ed upon the west bank of the Willa- ikte River, at the head of ship naviga- tn, 15 miles from its entrance into the (llumbia, and about 111 miles from the c;an. The distance to San Francisco I land is 642, and by water 652 miles. The city stands on a plateau, which g dually increases in height as it recedes f m the river, until it forms a range of t s at the western extremity of the city. I)m the summit of this range a fine v w is obtained of Mounts Hood, Jeffer- s I, and St. Helen, of the Cascade Range a I the windings of the Columbia and Wil- liiette Rivers. The city is the centre of a li\ie and prosperous trade with the State e t of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood, a I the adjoining Territories of Wash- iiton and Idaho. It was founded in 1 :5, by Messrs. Pettigrew and Lovejoy. 1i former was from Portland, Maine, a ;r which the place is named. It con- t;is between 1,200 and 1,300 buildings, at a population of nearly '7,000. The ^tc Penitentiary and the Presbyterian a I Catholic Clmrclies are commodious edi- fi s. The Portland Library Association h its rooms at 66 First Street. Twenty ri ir steamers ply between Portland and tl various towns on the Willamette and C umbia Rivers. The principal lines are tV^e to Eugene City (200 miles), Jeffer- S( (166 miles), Scio Landing (122 miles), ail to the Dalles (115 miles). Stages daily tcjSacramento, California, distant 642 icps. l daily line of steamers (0. S. N. Co.) le^es Portland for the Lower Cascades oihe Columbia (65 miles), passing Cape ~ n and Castle Rock ; thence by rail five miles to the Upper Cascades, whence the traveller can again take boat on the river for the Dalles. In the language of an old resident of the valley, "No pen' can do justice to the imposing grandeur and subhmity of the scenery presented in the passage through the Cascade Mountains." Seniles City^ or " The Dalles," is a thriving town of 2,000 inhabitants, on the south bank of the Colum.bia, 120 miles east of Portland. A railway, 15 miles long, connects it with Celilo, on the Columbia. The river at the Dalles is con- fined between basaltic cliffs in a channel less than 100 yards wide. A fine view of Mount Hood is here obtained. From Celilo eastward the tourist may profitably pursue his trip to Umatilla (97 miles), Wallula (110 miles), Walla- Walla (140 miles), and Lewiston, Idaho (223 miles). Umatilla may befaiily regarded as tbe head of certain navigation on the Co- lumbia. Hence, and from Wallula, daily stages run over the Blue Mountains to Boise and towns in Idaho. (See Sum- mary OP DISTANCES, etC.) St. Helen stands upon a rocky blufl" on the west side of the Columbia, 30 miles from Portland. The I'iver is here a mile wide, and forms a fine harbor. ©reg-OM City. — Hotel, United Stales. — Oregon City, the former capital of the Territory, is upon the Willamette, hidden in a narrow, high-walled valley or caiion. Falls on the I'iver at this point afibrd fine manufacturing facilities to the growing settlement. The manufacture of blankets and cloths is extensively car- ried on. Salem. — Hotels, Bennett House, Marion Hotel. — Salem, the capital of Oregon, is on the Willamette River, 50 miles above Oregon City. Population, 2,000. Astoria, named in honor of its founder, John Jacob Astor, is on the south side of the Columbia River, some 10 miles from its mouth. This was at one time an important fur-depot. ROUTES, DISTANCES, ETG. Miles. Portland to Lower (^ascados, 65 Across Portage 5 Upi)er Cascades to Dalles , 45 115 26V EOUTES.] OREGON. [Routes. Boats run daily : Miles- Dalles to Celllo 15 Celilo to Wallula 110 Wallula to "Walla- Walla 30 Boats run 3 times a week ; loO Dalles to TTmatilla Ill Walla- Walla to Lewist.m 83 Stages run 3 times a week: Lewiston to Florence 120 Lewiston to Elk City 142 Lewiston to Oro Fino S3 CANOX CITY TO DALLES : Miles. ■Wallhasan's Eanch 17 South Fork 17 Eock Creek 17 Mountain House 9 Alkali Flat 14 Muddy ■ . 22 Antelope Valley 16 Buck Hollow 15 Hav.stack 12 Cold Sprincc 10 Dixon's Bridge 15 Dalles 13 Stages run 3 times a week. 208 177 WALLA-WALLA TO PLACEHVILLE : {Boise 3fine8.) Walla-Walla to W. W. Eiver jj} Liukton's Mill 9 Mountain House Jj Phillips ]8 Willow Creek ]j Hendershott's jg Uniontown f, Pyles 1; Quigley's ]2 Bouldock's i;j Illinois ](! E.xpress Eanch ]2 Stout and Moody's ]4 Miller's 10 Olds's Ferry £ Weiser Eiver 15 Galena 20 Payeito Eanch 1.5 Burners' 15 Schaeffer's 12 Placerville 1« Placerville to Centreville i\ Placerville to Idaho City la Placerville to Pioneer City. S Idaho City to Boise City 3i Boise City to Owyhee K Boise f'it'y to South Boise 8.' Idaho City (by trail; to South Boise. Si Sta^'es run regularly to all the above-namec: places, except South Boise. SASH. TeRRITORT.] WASHINGTON TERRITORY. [Olympia. WASHIKGTOIsr TEEEITOEY. Washington Territory, until recently part of Oregon, occupies the extreme I'thwest corner of the domain of the 1 ited States. Its greatest extent is jut 600 miles from east to west and 3 from north to south. On the north, is separated from British America by Straits of Juan del Fuca. The Rocky untains lie on its eastern boundary, (jbgon ou the south, and the Pacific (ban on the west. 14ie general appear- e of this region is very similar to tliat Oregon — traversed, as both countries by the same mountain ranges and :'s. The Columbia traverses the Ter- iry, dividing it into unequal parts and uating it from Oregon on the south. lunt Olvmpus, the chief peak here of tl Coast Range, is 8,197 feet high, ered, like most of the summits of the ion, with perpetual snows. Mount S Helen, one of the spurs of the Cas- 01 e Range, has an elevation of 12,000 ft , ; and Mount Rainier, on the same clin, rises 13,000 feet. Mounts Adams ail Baker are other grand peaks of tlie Cicade Rnnge. This Range, which ci !ses the Territory from north to south li miles from the coast, is a continua- ti of the SieiTa Nevada. It is from 4( to 60 miles wide at its base, and hi an average elevation of 6,000 feet. 8i rs of the Rocky Mountains are seat- ted through the eastern portion of thj Territory. The chief source of with to the people of Oregon at pres- er[is in the utilization of their immense Ibt^ts of fir, and spruce, and cedar, thigh by and by, as the land becomes clired, it can l)e made productive by agcultural industry, especially in tlie cuire of grass and raising of live-stock. The mammoth trees of California and Ore- gon are found also in this region. The wilds of Washington Territory abound in elk, deer, and other game. Wild fowl, also, of many varieties, are plentiful ; and in no part of the world are there finer fish than may be caught here. The rivers of Washington are rapid mountain streams, replete with picturesque beauty in bold rocky cliffs and precipices, and in charming cascades. The readiest route to Washington from Oregon, which should be first visited, is by steamer down the Willamette and Columbia Rivers, 50 miles, and up the Cowlitz, two miles, to Monticello. Thence stage-wagons, twice a week, perform the service — not always a very agreeable one — of transporting the traveller to Olympia, 40 miles. Between Monticello and Oljinpia are seen some of the grand- est woods on the continent. Here, in the words of a late traveller in that region, is the forest primeval, thick witli slender pine, fir, hemlock, spruce, cedar, and arbor vitse, the trunks gloved in moss of orange-green, the branches hung with brown Spanish moss, the ground white, yellow, and purple, with luxuriant flowers. Olympia., the capital of Washing- ton Territory, stands on the east side of Tenalquct's River, at its entrance into Puget's Sound, in the extreme western or Pacific section, esteemed as the best part of the country. The other prin- cip.ll towns and settlements of this Ter- ritory are Nesqually, Steilacoom, Seat- tle, Port Townsend, New York, and New Dungeness, on Puget's Sound and Ad- miralty Inlet ; Pacific City, Catalamet, Fort Vancouver, Monticello, and Cascade City, on the Columbia River ; Wabassport 269 PuGET Sound.] WASniNGTON TERRITORY. [ Vicioiiu and Cowlitz Farms, on the Cowlitz Riv- er ; and Penn's Cove, on Whidby's Isl- and. The easiest and most comfortable way to see the different towns and points of interest in the Territory is to take steam- er (Xew World) from Portland down Pu- get's Sound. This is one of the loveliest sheets of water on the continent. It has 1,400 miles of navigation, and is bounded by solemn pine forests sentinelled by snow- capped mountain peaks. Hundreds of islands dot its shining surface, while its clear depths are almost transparent. The mountain views from the sound will engross the tourist's attention. Lumber constitutes the basis of trade and business carried on at the dif- ferent towns and villages on these wa- ters. The trade in this article exceeds a million dollars annually. Every town has its saw-mill, some of them of large size and capacity. Fish and coal are also large ly obtained and exported. The Indians on Whidby's Island and in the neighborhood of Seattle will attract the traveller's attention. They belong to the Skagit tribe. 270 From the north end of Puget Sount the traveller can cross the Straits of Fuc, and visit the Britis'n possessions upoi Vancouver Island. The population of the island is betwee' 7,000 and 8,000, four-fifths of which resirli in the pleasant, prosperous little city oi Victoria. The climate of Vancouver is similar t^ that of New York, though it is mud farther north. Delicious fruits and flow ers grow in abundance. Victoria, the capital of the Britisl Colony of Vancouver Island is situate: on the southeast end of that island. I was originally the depot of the Hudsoi Bay Company, and came into prominenc and population during the Frazer Rive excitement. It is well built, of bricli and stone, and wears a cheerful, attractiv appeiirance. The Government House axu the Governor''s Mansion are worth visit" ing. Population 5,000. Here our joui ney northward through Oregon and Wasli ington tercTiinates, and we return to Olym pia, Portland, or San Francisco, as ou future movements eastward may best dt termine. UZONA.J ARIZONA. [PfiESCOTT. A E I Z O ^ A inizoNA was organized as a Territory Iiruary 24, 1863. Its area is estimated the 120,912 square miles. It is formed f m a portion of the old Territory of t|W Mexico, and is bounded on the south Texas and Souora ; on the west by the (|orado River and California, and on the th by Utah and Nevada. It is about ^ miles long, with an average width of miles. The Commissioner of the eral Land-Office, in his report to Con- Iss in December, 1863, says of this [ion, that it " is believed to be stocked h mineral wealth beyond that of any er Territory of equal extent in the at plateau between the Rocky Moun- s and the Sierra Nevada." The coun- east of the Rio Grande is a great plain ken only b}' the Sacramento and Gua- ipe Mountains. The population is nly confined to the towns along the s. The climate, except on the lower and the Colorado, is delicious. Snow lorn falls, and never lies long. The ly season extends from June to Sep- iber, inclusive. The mineral resources the Territory are considerable, and iing districts and towns are to be id through the interior of tlie region. ! principal route to the Territory is t by the overland stage from Wilming- and Los Angeles, via San Bernardino, t(jLa Paz, 204 miles, and Prescott, 445 (Sec Routes.) Freight can be bped by sailing vessels from San Fi'an- ciio to Point Isabel, at the mouth of the ^jrado, and thence by steamer. The rado is the only navigable stream in zona. The Territory is divided into 4) fcl- counties, Pima, Yuma, Mojave, and j^pai. [•rcscott, the capital of the Terri- tory, and the seat of justice for Yavapai County, is pleasantly situated among the Pine Mountains, 150 miles east of the Colorado, and 450 miles south of Salt Lake City. It is the centre of an exten- sive gold and silver mining district. The first house was built, June, 1864. Popu- lation estimated at 600. Other towns, with a mixed population of Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, are scattered through the interior of the Ter- ritory. The principal are Tucson and Tubac in Pima; La Paz, Castle Dome, Mineral City, and Olive City, in Yuma ; Mojave City, Hardy ville, in Mojave Coun- ty; and Prescott, Weaver, and Wicken- berg, in Yavapai County. Among the leading objects of interest to be found in the Territory are extensive ruins of cities, aqueducts, etc., the re- mains of early Spanish settlements in Yavapai County, near the Rio Verde and Rio Salinas. Routes.— The following are the princi- pal routes to, from, and through Arizona, viz. : Prom Wilmington, Cal., via San Ber- nardino, to La Paz, 264 miles ; to Pres- cott, 445 miles. From Fort Whipple (Prescott), to Santa Fe, 523 miles. From La Paz to Bill Williams's Fork, G5 miles. From La Paz to Castle Dome, 63 miles. From La Paz to Weaver, 128 miles. From Wilmington to Hardy ville, 310 miles. From Hardy ville to Prescott, 161 miles. From San Diego, Cal., to Fort Yum|L, 239 miles. From Fort Yuma to Wickenburg, 1*77 271 EOUTES.l ARIZONA. IKOOTKS. miles ; Weaver and Prescott, 246 miles, via north side of Gila Kivcr. From Fort Goodwin to Las Cruces, N. M., 203^ miles. From Fort Yuma, via Pimos Villages, 424 miles ; Tucson, 6(52 miles ; Fort Bowie, 183 miles ; Fort Cummings, 31G miles ; to Santa Fe, 918 miles. From Tucson to Mesilla, N. M., 263 miles. From Prescott to Fort Goodwin, 2361 miles. 272 From Tucson to La Libertad (Gulf of Gal.), 227 miles. From Pimos Villages to Prescott, 144 i miles. Travellers through Arizona, desiroas to ^ visit New Mexico, will find the stage route from Fort Whipple to Santa Fe, or the t wagon routes from Tucson to Mesilla, and from Fort Goodwin to Las Graces, the most desirable. The distance by the former is 523 miles, by the two latter, i 263 miles. |w Mexico.] NEW MEXICO. [Santa Fe. KEW MEXICO [Jew Mexico is a portion of the Ter- ry ceded to the United States by the itj with Mexico of 1848 aud of 1854. .as organized as a Territory, September 850. Its area is at present (as re- ed by the subsequent fomiatiou of ■ Territories), 121,201 square miles. ? bounded on tlie nortli by Utah and >rado, on the east by Texas aud the ian Territory, south by Texas aud [luahua, and west by Arizona and California. Like the adjacent ct. otry, it is a region of high table-lauds, CI sed by mountain ranges, aud barren to he last degree. In the eastern part oil his Territorj' are the valleys of the E Grande, aud its tributary waters silting the base of various chains of the Kiky Mountain*, as the Sierra Madre ra ;e, the Jumanes, and the Del Cabello. Jiiid Tai/lor, among the Sierra Madre, is id to rise 10,000 feet above the valley of le Eio Graude, which is itself a table- la' of many thousand feet elevation. Viable mineral deposits — ^gold, silver, adi other metals — exist in New Mexico, th igh the resources of the mines have ncjyet been very much developed. New M|ico is full of wonderful natural curios- iti and beauties, though but a few of its lauy surprising scenes have been yet ored. Immense canons exist among nountains of the Sierra Nevada ; deep les, where rivers flow in darkness hujlreds of feet down below the surface ic valleys. Red aud white sandstone is, too, abound ; grand and lofty pcr- pelicular precipices of rocks, wearing ty varying semblance of cliff-lodged e aud fortress. The principal rivers the Rio Graude, Pecos, Salinas, and Puerco. Waterfalls of surpassing th beauty are scattered through the mountain fastnesses. The Cascade Grotto is de- scribed as a series of falls, which, coming from a mineral spring in the hills, leap from cliff to cliff, a thousand feet down to the Gila below. A wonderful cavern, in which are some curious petrifactions, may be entered beneath the first of these cas- cades. Two marvellous falls have been discovered in the Rio Virgen, one of which, 200 miles from its mouth, has a perpendicular descent of 1,000 feet. The present iuhabitants of New Mexico con- sist chiefly of domesticated nomad Indians, with a sprinkling of Mexicans and Amer- icans. Immigration from the States has not yet tui-ued much in this direction. The ruins of the ancient pueblos, which are scattered throughout the Territory, are well worthy inspection. The most noteworthy are the Pueblos Pintado, We- gi-gi, Uua-Vida, Huugo Paire, Penasca, Blauca, aud Taos. New Mexico is divided into ten counties. Ssxuta. Fe. — Santa Fe is the capital of the Territory. It is situated on the Rio Chicito, or the Santa Fe River, 20 miles from its entrance into the Rio Grande. It is the great depot of the overland trade, which has been carried on for 30 or 40 years past with Missouri. The town is built on a plateau elevated '7,000 feet above the level of the sea, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, 5,000 feet yet higher. The people are but a miserable set, aud their home rec- ommends itself to the stranger scarcely more tlian they do themselves. The houses here, as elsewhere in the region, are built of dark adobes or sun-dried bricks. Each building usually forms a square, in the interior of which is a court, 213 New Mexico.] NEW MEXICO. [New Mexico, upon which all the apartments open. The only entrance is made of sufficient size to admit animals with their burdens. The other principal settlements are Albu- querque, Mesilla, Valencia, Las Vegas, and Tuckelata. KOtTTE FKOSI INDEPENDENCE CITY, MO., TO SAN- TA FE. Miles. Miles. From Independence City to the Kansas boundary 2^ „ ToLoneElm ' f:> •' Koimd Grove » °:l " The Narrows ^^ ^'^ " Blackjack % P^ " One -hundred Creek ^i lU" ." Switzler's Creek 9 1 ' j " DrasoonCreek •••• f. ^^* Several creeks are then crossed, after wuicti To Biij John Spring 8* 14S '' Council trrove • ■•■ " Kaw Village and Placeto,in Council 2 6 149 G-rove " Sylvan Camp, in Council Grove " Willow Spring «' Diamond Spring J^o J- 'it " Lost Sprin<^ -^^ » Cottonwood' Forli "of Grand River.. 12 199 "TurkeyCreek 29 22S " Mud Creek 19 247 " Little Arkansas '^ -^^ " Cow Creek 20 270 "PlumButtes 1* ^2^ " Great Bend of the Arkansas i ^^^ The trail then ascends the northern bank of the Arkansas Eiver for 130 miles. To Walnut Creek 7 293 " Pawnee Eock 14 307 " Ash Creek " °^"^ « Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas 6 819 "Coon Creek •• 33 3o2 " Caches 36 388 " Old Fort Mann I* 40i " Fort Sumner 4 400 " Ford of the Arkansas 10 41t) " Jornado to Sand Creek 49 4bo » Lower Spring, on the Cimarron 11 47b " Middle Spring, on the Cimarron.... 37 513 " Willow Bar. 543 " Upper Spring, on the Cimarron IT 560 274 Milea. m\f To Cold Sprinsrs 6 5i)( " McNee's Creek 26 W: " Eabbit-eiir 19 Oil " Hound Mound 8 611 " Eock Creek 13 65; " Point of Eooks 17 611 " Eio Colorado 20 6»it " Ocate 7 CTi " Wagon Mound 19 Bi''' " Santa Clara Spring 2 (U\ " Fort Barclay, on Kio Mora 22 71S " Las Vegas, on Eio Gallinas 19 7:J- "NaturalGate 6 7+J " Ojo de Bernal H J'* " San Miguel 8 7i>_ " Pecos Euins 24 7n " Santa Fe 25 i>\: Routes. — From Santa Fe, via Font Larned (555 miles), to Kansas City, J' 843 miles. From Santa Fe, via Fort Craig {Yi% miles), and Las Cruces (278 miles), t(i Denver, Col., 431 miles. To Franklin. Texas, the distance is 327 miles. From Mesilla to Chihuahua, Mexico; 282 miles. From Santa Fe to Fort. Sumner, 18 miles ; via Taos (85 miles), to Fort Gari land, 190 miles. From Fort Bascom to Fort Sumnei ^ 81 miles. From Fort Bascom to Fort Union, 12' miles. From Fort Union to Fort Sumner, U miles. From Fort Union to Fort Stanton, 2i miles. From Albuquerque, via Perdinales (7 miles), to Bosque Redonda, 168 miles. From Fort Sumner to Fort Stantoi 125 miles. From Santa Fe to Fort Stanton, 19 miles. m j ;VADA.J NEVADA. [Nevada NEVADA. vTetada forms the weKtern side of the glat basin enclosed by the Rocky Moun- t(|i3 on the east and tlie Sierra Nevada rige on the west ; the average elevation of itlH'alleys being at least 5,000 feet above water, while very little of it is as low as }0 feet. It is bounded on the north Oregon and Idaho, on the south and t by California, and on the east by h, and embraces an area of upward of '-three millions of acres. It has few nd waters. The Humboldt, Walker, Carson Rivers and Lakes are the most irlortant. Lakes Tahoe and Donner, C stal and Pyramid Lakes, near its west- eijboundary, are well worth visiting. he history of Nevada dates from a v* recent period. It was organized into erritory, March 2, 1861, up to which ! it formed part of tlie adjoining Ter- ry of Utah. It was admitted into the n hi October, 1864. It is divided 11 covmties, and contains a popula- variously estimated at from 40,000 to 6(|)00. It is divided into two main geo- hical divisions known as Western and em Nevada. Of the former, popular- nowii as " Washoe," Virginia is the cipal town; of the latter, Austin, on City is the capital. Star City, Hbboldt, Silver City, Unionville, Dayton, Aiora, and Belmont, are smaller towns centres of mining districts, scattered thiugh the State. lie State of Nevada abounds in rich sties of mineral wealth, including gold, siltr, quicksilver, lead, antimony, and otljr precious metals. The finest silver dcfsits in the United States are said to ex- jsti Storey County, in this State ; and the bH r mines of Lander County are reported to ive increased the population there sev- eral thousands during the lapse of a single year. The mining region of Nevada is de- scribed as an elevated semi-desert country ; its surface a constant succession of longi- tudinal mountain ranges, with intervening valleys and plains, most of which are in- dependent basins, hemmed in by moun- tains on all sides, and the whole system without drainage to the sea. Routes. — Virginia City, via Silver City [o^ miles). Empire City (13 miles), to Car- son (16 miles); stage twice daily. Virginia to Dayton (8 miles) ; daily. Virginia, via Opliir (11 miles), to Wa- shoe (14 miles) ; daily. Virginia, t/ia IBuftalo Springs (132 mil.), to Star City (161 miles); tri-weekl}^ Star City, via Owyhee (159 miles). Ruby City (245 miles), Boise (306 miles), to Idaho City (342 miles) ; weekly. Dayton, via Empire City (11 miles), to Carson (14 miles); daily. Washoe City, via Ophir (3 miles), to Carson (14 miles) ; daily. Carson to Aurora (10*7 miles) ; tri- weekly. Aurora to Brodie (10 miles) ; daily. '^'"irg'iiaiii. — Hotel, the Interna- tional. — Virginia, the chief city of the Territory, and the most important town on the overland line between Salt Lake City and Sacramento, is situated on the eastern slope of Mount Davidson, 291 miles northeast of San Francisco, and 572 miles v/est of Salt Lake City. It stands at an elevation of 6,200 feet above the sea level, and owes its foundation and much of its growth to the discovery and working of the ftvmous Comstock silver lode, which underlies a great portion of the city. This lode has already yielded 275 Carson Citst.] NEVADA. [AnsTis nearly sixty millions of dollars since its discovery in June, 1859. The mines constitute the great " sight " of the place. The "Savage" and "Gould & Carry" mines are the best worth visiting. Appli- cation for permission should be made to the resident superintendents at the works. Among the public buildings and objects of interest are the Court-House, on B Street, the Episcopal, Catholic, and Pres- byterian churches, the BctJik of Califor- nia, and the express and banking house of Wells, Fargo & Co. Mount Davidnon, 1,500 feet high, commands fine views. Virginia City, with Gold Hill, which ad- joins it, contains a population of about 15,000. The streets are well paved and lighted with gas. The Territorial Enter- prise and News are published daily. The stages of the Overland ilail^Wells, Fargo & Go's.) leave Virginia City daily for Austin, Salt Lake City, and Sacra- mento, and all points east and west. Hot Springs are found within a few miles of Virginia, accessible by stage, and delightfid for bathing. Cai'son City, the capital of the State, is situated in a pleasant valley at the foot of the east slope of the Sierra Nevada range, 4 miles west of Carson River, and 16 miles southwest of Virginia. It was founded in 1858. The views of the mountain ranges are fine. Popula- tion, 2,500. The Court-Home, State Pris- on, and United Stales Hint are among the principal buildings. The St. Charles is the leading hotel. The other principal towns and settle- ments in Nevada are Waslioe Citij, Ophir, Silver City, Star Citt/, Unionville, Hum- boldt, Datj^on, Genoa, and Aurora. Hot Spriaag's*, 1 mile from Car- son, on the road to Virginia, and Wal- lefs Warm Sprinc/s, 2 miles south of Genoa, should be visited. The Steamboat Springs, 3 miles south of Washoe City, are 276 also worth seeing. The road from Carson westward to California commands some magnificent views. From the foot of the Sierras it winds among deep green valleys and huge granite hills studded with giant pine-trees. 5^£ilce Talaoe, 13 miles from Car- son, IS one of the most lovely resorts in the United States. It is thus described by a lata writer: "Among the clouds, i one mile above the sea, this shining mir- ror lies for 20 miles, fringed with sombre pines and walled in by dark mountains. Though at some points 1,500 feet deep, it is almost as transparent as the air, distinctly revealing the bottom throtish 100 feet of water. In summer the little steamer Governor Blaisdell plies upon it for the pleasure-seekers who board at the Glen Brook House and the Lake House. It is the highest water on the globe navi- , gated by steamboat. The State line be- tween CaUfornia and Nevada crosses the \ lake." Aflistin, the chief city of Eastern Nevada, and the centre of the famous Reese River mining district, is situated at the head of Pony CaQon, 185 miles east of Virginia and SSY miles west of Salt Lake City. The young city stands at an elevation of 6,000 feet above the sea level, and commands from the upper end of the caiion fine views of the vallevs to the west and east. The first discovery of silver here was made in July, 1862. The yield since has been very consider- able, and the population now numbers 4,000. The ifanhattan and Empire mines and mills are well worth visiting, as arc also the Belmont, Paliranagat, and other* mining districts, which ai'c readily reached by stage. Austin has one or two good cliurch edifices and two banks. The Reveille, published daily, contains the latest raining news from the Reese River district. Hotel, MolUnelli. I'AH.] UTAH. [Utah. UTAH. Jtah formerly extended some 700 cs from east to west, and 34'7 miles m north to south ; but this vast region 5 been p;reatly reduced by the recent ui.itioa of Nevada and the adjacent kitories. Its present area is 109,600 slare miles ; its population about 1 1,000. It is bounded on the north by llho, east by Colorado, south by Ari- zla, and west by Nevada. It is a coun- ti of elevated, sterile table-lands, divided iiluuequal parts by the Sierra Madre Mmtains. Tlie Great Basin, or Fie- npt's Basin, as it is sometimes called, ebnds over the western part, 500 miles filu east to west, and 850 from nortli to s(jth. This vast tract lies at an eleva- til of nearly 5,000 feet above the level o|ie sea. Some portion of it is covered bja yielding mass, composed of sand, sol, and clay, and others with a crust of aljiline and saline substance. Great hi; surround it on all sides, and de- taied groups cross its whole area. Near tt centre it is travei'sed by the Hum- be It Eiver Moimtains, which rise from 5,\o to '7,000 feet above the adjacent c( itry. Tliere are other great valley stitches in Utah, more sterile even than th| Great Basin, as that lying between thjRocky and the Wahsatch Mountains. Oi[' a small portion of this wide region caj be turned to account for agricultural pvposes. The little fertile land it pos- sess is that which skirts the streams anl narrow tracts at the base of the ni jutain ranges. The most productive pdion proljably is that of the valleys nding north and south, west of Wahsatch Mountains, and which is jpied by the Mormon settlements. TMse settlements are 96 in number. Of the entire population upward of 10,000 are farmers who cultivate 140,000 acres of land. The Territory produces about half a million sacks of flour annually. Utah is historically knovra as a Mormon colony. This extraordinary people pitch- ed their tents here in 1847, after they were driven out of Illinois and Missouri. They are the sole occupants of the region, excepting a few Gentiles and the native Indian tribes. They seem to be a pros- perous and increasing community ; for an enumeration of their numbers, made in 1863, exhibited a population of over 83,000, exclusive of the Indians. The first settlements were made in July, 1847, and it was organized as a Territory, Sep- tember 9, 1850. The navigation of the Colorado River for 600 miles from its mouth to Callville, Arizona, has opened a new era for Utah'. The Pacific and Colorado Steam Navigation Company has been organized, and will add much to the growth and prosperity of the Territority. The climate of Utah is said to resemble that of the great Tartar plains of Asia, the days in summer-time being hot and the nights cool. The winters are mild in the valleys, and except in the mountain ranges, but little snow falls. There snow falls deep, and the thermometer ranges from zero to 30° below for days and even weeks together. The temperature is liable to great and quick transitions from the changing currents of the winds. The Crreat Salt tialce is per- haps the most remarkable of all the many natural wonders of the Territory. This singularbodyof water lies northeast of the centre of the Territory, and 20 miles west of the City of the Sa'ints. It is over 100 miles long and 35 wide. It is so highly im- 277 Lakes, etc.] UTAH. [Salt L.vke Ciir, pregnated with salt tlmt no life is found in it, and a thick saline incrustation is deposited upon its hanks by evaporation in hot weather; and vet all its ti-ibutaiy vraters are fresh. In some of its features, as in tlie wild and weird aspect of much of the surrounding scenery, it has been compared to the Dead Sea of Palestine. It is 4,000 feet above the sea level, and contains seven islands. Utali. iialce is a body of fresh water 35 miles in length. It lies south of the Great Salt Lake, to which it is tributary, by the channel of the connect- ing river, called the Jordan. Like its sahne neighbor, the Utah Lake is elevated 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is abundantly suppUed \^'ith fine trout and other fish. "Pyi-aiul*! Hiake lies on the slope of the Sierra Xevada Mountains, YOO feet yet above the Great Salt Lake. It is en- closed -everywhere by giant rocky preci- pices, which rise vertically to the sublime height of 3,000 feet. Froni the bosom of the translucent waters of this wonder- ful lake there springs a strange pyramidal rock 600 feet in air. In the interior of the Territory there are other smaller ponds, as XicoUet Lake near the cen- tre, and '70 miles yet southward. Lake Ashley. Mud, Pyramid, Walker's, and Carson's Lakes are near the eastern base of the Sierra Xevada Mountains ; Hum- boldt's Lake, formed by the waters of Humboldt River, is about 50 miles east of P\Tamid Luke. (See Nevada.) Caiaojis, — Xear Brown's Hole, in the vicinity of Green Kiver, there are many of those singular ravines of the Great West, known as canons. They are sudden depressions in the surface of the earth, sometimes of a vertical depth of 1,500 feet. Nothing can be more surprising and more grand than the pictures presented in these strange passages ; the effect, too, is always heightened by the unexpected manner hi which the traveller comes upon them, as no previous intimation is afforded, by the topography of the land, of their proximity. EocTES. — Salt Lake City, via Eagan Canon (269 miles), to Ruby Valley (311 miles) ; daily. Salt Lake City, via Fort Bridger to North Platte Station (596 miles). 2'78 Salt Lake City, via Pleasant Grove (36 miles), Provo (43 miles), to Payson (62 miles) ; semi-weekly. Payson, via Nephi (26 miles), to Fill- more (77 miles) ; semi-weekly. Fillmore, via Parowan (95 miles), to Cedar City (113 miles); weekly. Cedar City, via Santa Clara (64 miles), to Callville, Arizona, head of navigation on Colorado River (100 miles); weekly. Callville is 410 miles from Salt LakeCitv and 600 miles frOm the Gulf of Mexico." Springville, via Mount Pleasant (48 miles), to Gunnison (88 miles);, semi- weekly. Salt Creek, via Moroni (20 mOes), tc Manti (40 mUes) ; daUy. ^a^reat Salt t-altc City, th( capital of Utah, and the largest cid on the overland line between Chicago am Sacramento, is delightfully situated ii the centre of the valley of Great Sal Lake, 1,166 miles west from Omaha, am 854 miles east of San Francisco. It ha a fine agricultural and mining region cor tiguous to it, and is the centre of a lap.' and growing trade. The traveller shoul be prepared to spend at least one week i the city and neighborhood ; longer if po: sible. The town covers an area of aboi 9 miles — that is, 3 mUes each way. It: one of the most beautifully laid -out citii in the world. The streets are very wici' with water rumiing through nearly evei one of them. Every block is surrounde with beautiful shade-trees, and almo every house has its neat little orchard c apple, peach, apricot, and cherry tret In fact, the whole 9 square miles is almO' one continuous orchard. From Ensh Peak, one of the finest views on t! whole overland line is obtained. T! most noteworthy objects in the city a the Tabernacle, now nearly complet and capable of holding 15,000 peopl the Temple ; Presidential llansion, C( sisting of the "Bee-Hive" House a "Lion House," and enclosed within i high and substantial stone ' wall ; t T/ieatre, City Hall, and the residences i some of the Morjnon bishops and eldei The Theatre is an imposing edifice erecl: at a cost of $250,000, and capable seating 1,800 people. Excellent accc modation can be had at Toicnsend'sB.c cr the Revere. i Sii Lake City.] UTAH. [Fillmore City. Bait Lake City has three newspapers, t}- Telegraphy Vidette, and Deseret News, i: last-named being the organ of the J^rmon Church. Host charming walks and rides may be r^de to the Hot and Tepid Sulphur Springs (Iths at the latter), to Camp Douglas, 2ililes distant, and to Great Salt and tnh Lakes. Outside of the City of Salt I^e, Mormon settlements extend hnn- dWs of miles in all directions. The principal towns and villages are Provo, Ogden, Brownsville, Franklin, Springville, Nephi, Stockton, Payson, etc. iPillmore City, once the capital of the Territory, is situated on theNuquin, a branch of the Nicollet River. Stages to Payson and Cedar City on the Provo or Timpanogos River. Seven miles above Provo City are some remarkable cataracts, well worthy a visit from travel- lers in that region. 2'?9 Idaho.] IDAHO. [BOISKE. IDAHO. Idaho was organized as a Territory, March 3, 1863. Its area was originally 833,200 square miles, but of this immense area Montana has now nearly two-thirds. It is formed from the eastern halves of the old Washington and Oregon Terri- tories, the western half of Nebraska, and a small part of Northern Utah. It extends from Utah and Colorado on the south to the British possessions on the north. It is said that the Indian word Idaho is, in English, "a star;" and again, that it stands for " the gem of the mountains." The Idaho region includes the rich gold-fields of Salmon Rirer, a stream of remarkably picturesque beauty, flowing, here and there, between grand perpendicular walls varying in height from 500 to 2,000 feet. The very recent and rapid settlement of Idaho, commenced within two or three years past, has grown out of the gold discov- eries. These discoveries attracted thou- sands of adventurers from California, who soon afterward pushed their explo- rations toward Eastern Oregon and West- ern Idaho. From that period to the present a steady and increasing tide of immigration has set thitherward, and the resources of the land are being daily re- vealed and utilized, both in its mineral stores and its capacities in soil, climate, etc. Settlements are rapidly growing up, roads are being constructed, the waters are navigated, schools and chui-ches are appearing, with all other adjuncts of per- manent and progressive civilization. The mineral resources of Idaho, even as at present known, compare well vnth the other great mining portions of the great Rocky Mountain region. Gold is found in most of the tributaries of the Missouri 280 and the Yellowstone. Platina, too, lias been obtained in small quantities, wliile extensive deposits of this valuable metal are supposed to exist. Copper, iron, and salt ;ire abundant ; and coal is found upon the Pacific slope of the llocky Moun- tains, and on the upper Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers. The climate of the Idaho region is bleak in the mountain ranges, but mild and agreeable in the valley districts. Boise is the capital, and Idaho City, Lewiston, Ruby City, and Star City, the principal towns. The leading approaches to the Territory are from the Pacific by the Humboldt route from Hunter's Station, on the over- land (Wells, Fargo & Go's.) mail line to Boise, the capital, or from Portland, Oregon, by way of the Columbia and Snake Rivers to Lewiston, and from Uma-i tilla and Wallula to Boise and Idaho Cities. From Salt Lake City, via Bear River (84 miles), to Boise (393 miles.) BBoisee or Boise City, the capital and chief commercial town of Idaho, is situated; on a level plain on the north bank of the Boise River, about 30 miles southwest ol Idaho City, and 393 miles from Great Salt Lake City. It became the capitalit 1864. Its broad, level, treeless avenue? with their low, white-verandahed ware houses, log cabins, new, neat cottages and ever-shifting panorama of wagOD; and coaches, Indians, miners, fanners'i and speculators, remind one of a prairie;' town in Kansas or Iowa. It is over, looked by Fort Boise, which has a nobli' parade-ground, surrounded by tastet'ui buildings of sandstone, and is the mos. beautiful of all our frontier posts, excep ' Fort Davis, in Texas. Ruby City, Sihc City, and Boonville, are trading towns i: SEE.] IDAHO. [Lewiston. tlj mountain mining district of Owyhee. T^y are reached over a rough dreary !d from Boise in one day. Ruby City ji the lieart of the Owyliee district, and iles from the Oregon line. It stands a|he bottom of a deep carion overlooked bimountain summits -which tower from 8( to 1,500 feet above it. War Eagle, tl highest, is 2,000 feet above the town 5,000 feet above the sea. This intain is rich in mineral. The Morn- \Star and Oro Fino Mills should be ;ed. The Great Falls of the Snake, miles from Boise City, and 6 miles li'Ji the stage road, should be visited. Tlrare thus desci-ibed by a recent trav- el) in Idaho : " The roar grew loud as wt; ipproached ; yet we could not see •iver, for it runs through a winding tn, hundreds of feet below the sur- of the plain. But we could detect ist, with violet tinge of rainbow, and its thundering voice. At last we ted on a broken floor of brown lava, mded the precipice for three hun- feet, by a natural rock stairway, ed a fevr hundred yards across a ' ce of grass, lava, and cedars, and I npon a second precipice. Peer- ver the edge, five hundred feet be- 1 us we saw the river, after its terrific peaceful and placid as a mirror, a mile above, in full view, was the la [la at act. It is unequalled in the world, by Niagara, of which it vividly re- nii ed us. It is not all height, like Yo- ;e, nor all breadth and power, like he reat Falls of the Missouri, nor all itribth and volume, like Niagara, but jonines the three elements. Like most cataracts, it has the horse-shoe form and the undying rainbow. The volume of water is less than at Niagara, for its cres- cent summit is only eight hundred feet wide. But the descent — two hundred feet — is one-third greater, while above the brink, solemn portals of lava, rising for hundreds of feet on each bank, supply an element of grandeur which the monarch of cataracts altogether lacks. One of these lava columns is crowned with an eagle's nest. Below the fall, over the canon side, shrivelled cedars cling to the rock, with roots like claws. Upon the withered branch of one perched a white- tailed magpie, while upon another, statu- esque and motionless, was an enormous raven, black as jet." * Ijovistom, the county seat of Nez Perce County and once the capital of the Territory, is on the Lewis Fork of the Columbia River, 353 miles east of Port- land, Oregon, with which it has daily communication. It contains several sub- stantial buildings and a population of 2,000. Itialio City (formerly Bannack) is situated at the confluence of Elk and Moore's Creeks, in the midst of the placer gold mines of the Boise Basin. Boise City is 30 miles distant. A fire destroyed a great part of the town in May, 1865, but it has been wholly rebuilt. Pop- ulation, about 4,000. The mining town of Buena Vista Bar, opposite Idaho City, has a population of 1,600. * From " "West of the Mississippi," by Albert D. Eichardson. 281 M0XTAX.i.] MOXTAXA. [RoCTKg, Elt M O X T A X A MovTAXA formed a part of Idaho until Mar, 1S6-4, at which time it was organ- ized iato a distinct Territory. It is bounded on the north bv the British possessions, on the east bv Dacotah, and on the south by Dacotah and Idaho, and on the west by Idaho. Its length is about 560 miles, and its breadth about 250 mUes. The surface of the country is generally mountainous. The great Rocky Moun- tain range crosses the Territory. Com- mencing at the northern boundary, this range extends for a distance of about 200 miles in a S. S. E. direction, after which it describes a great curve westward until it touches the border of Idaho. From this point the range winds along the south- west boundary of Montana for nearly 200 miles. The Bitter-Root Mountains also form a part of the western boundary. The country bordering on the Jefferson, Gallatin, and Madison Forks of the Mis- souri is among the most fertile and beau- tiful to be foimd west of the Mississippi The country is a gently undulating prairie, dotted here and there with clumps of timber. The streams are beautifully fringed with forest growth ; the soil is rich, and the climate generally imld and invigorating. The piincipal rivers are the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and their tributaries ; the Big Horn, Powder, Milk, and Manas Rivers. Gold and silver have been found in great abundance, and mining is now the most important industry of the Territory. Indeed, Montana is believed by many who have visited and examined it to be the richest placer-mining region in the United States. 2S2 i I The Great Falls of the iCssouri are r ! garded as the leading object of interest; I travellers. I Rotrrrs. — The principal routes to tb I Territory are the overland route from Sil 1 Lake City, via Bear River, and Rinnacvi ! to Tirginia City and Helena ; and the ML souri River route to Fort Benton. Th . latter cannot be travelled except dnrin I the rise in the river, which usually takt j place in June, and ordinarily affords nav I gation for about six weeks. Fort Tni ■ I 400 miles below Fort Benton, is tbe L: of summer navigation. For all pract.'- I purposes of travel the overland ronte 1 I Salt Lake Qty is the only route. I From Fort Benton, via Mullan's Pa.- I and Stevens's Pass, to Walla-Walk, Or : gon, a distance of 618 miles, the ro; ; crosses the northern part of the Territo: ! From Great Salt Lake City to Tirf.L • City and Helena, the stations an. tances are as follow, viz. : To Centreville M " Kavs Ward 12 " Ogaen Citv 15 " Bi^Dam .'. 11 '• Brisham City 11 " Mormon Citr !• ~ Beae Ei-teb M '■ Mound Springs 12 '* Henderson Creek 1' •' Mallade Citr '■' - Devili Creek 1" " MaRh Valley V '• Carp'.-nters 1-5 '• Bobbers" Eetreat 1- '^ BlackEock 13 " Pocatello 1" " Eosi" Fork 1- " Blackfoot Eiver 1':^ " Tampateh I"' " Cedar PoinL 1^ " Big Bend ^- " Eagle Eock -' " Market Lake. 1" ACK.] MOXTAXA. [Helena. Miles, Miles. ci)esert Wells IS 2S2 >amas Creek 12 294 ■)ryCieek 22 816 ■|*le:i£ant Valley 12 82S 'I utamit 9 33T 'jnnction Eauche 10 S4T ' Ii>soaii Spring 9 35(3 ■ r.ed Eock 13 369 ' -able Eock 10 3T9 ' forse Prairie 15 394 'LnnackCity 10 404 ■ iattlesnake 15 419 toneEanche 15 -434 aver Head 10 444 inking- Water Branch 12 456 lorrain's 11 46" irginia City 10 4TT eiena 120 o9T aving the City of the Saints the road el along the northeast bank of the Salt Lake, past thrifty Mormon illses of dull-brown adobe houses, with orcliards overspreading cotton- l-trees and streets watered by small cial streams. 'ter crossing the Idaho line a little io;i of Bear River, the road passes hnigh Port Xeuf Canon, thirty miles oeI and soon af(er the traveller reaches htlnake or Shoshonee (Winding) River, hdld Lewis Fork of the Columbia. 'lis dim, crooked artery of the great lesk's heart, fifteen hundred miles in enjh, rises from springs within half a niiof those forming the head-waters of hcllissouri. It is the river of desola- ioil Unrelieved by forests or green jails for nearly the entire length, it is a latlal ditch sunk in the sand — filled viticlear water, and faintly fringed with (capring willows and cottonwoods. Eyond Snake River the road crosses Tiilf of sand. To the east rise the 'J Ilk Teions, a unique spur of the Rocky Mojtains, called by the Indians the ' TJee Pinnacles." Climbing over the 'd|de" of the Rocky Mountains, just ! Pleasant Valley Station, we leave ific slope behind, entering Mon- ..niaiiiong the tributaries of the Mis- 50U| Iiunack, the pioneer town of Montana, is first reached. It lies in the gulch of Grasshopper Creek, enclosed by lofty mountains, 70 miles from Yirginia City and 400 from Salt Lake City. Virginia City. — Hotel, Plant- ers'. Yirginia, the capital and chief city of Montana, is situated on Alder Creek, a tributary of Jefferson's Pork of the Mis- souri. It was settled in July, 1862, and with its suburbs Nevada City and Junc- tion, contains a population of between 4,000 and 5,000. Alder Gulch is about 13 miles in length, and presents to the eye of one unacquainted with mining operations, a curious spectacle. Millions of doUars of gold have been taken out of it. The Post, one of the best news- papers in the Territory, is published here. Stages and stage expresses leave daily and tri-weekly for Helena, Bannack, and Salmon River, Silver Bow, Red Mountain City, Deer Lodge, Blackfoot, Rej-nolds City, Bearto^\"n, and Hellgate. Between Virginia City and Helena the distance, 120 miles, is usually travelled by stage in 14 to 16 hours. Views of the junction of the Jefferson, Gallatin, and Madison Porks, which form the Missouri, and of the Hot Springs, four miles from Helena, and White-tailed Deer Canon are obtained en route. These springs have fine medicinal properties, and are largely patronized by visitors from Helena. l&elena. — Hotel, Broadvay House. Helena is a thriving three-year-old city, with a population of nearly 6,000. It is the supply-point of the rich placer mines of the Blackfoot country and other sec- tions of Northern Montana, embracing some of the most valuable diggings on the continent. It is 18 miles west of the Missouri River, and 120 miles north of Virginia City. The first settlement was made here in Last Chance Gidch, in the fall of 1864. In the vicinity are exten- sive quarries of granite and blue lime- stone. The city contains several banks and wholesale stores. The Herald is published daily, with all the mining and Territorial news. 283 Denver.] COLORADO. [PiKii's Peak. COLO E ADO. Colorado was organized as a Territory Marcli 2, 1861. Its area is 106,475 square miles. It lies directly west of Kansas, and comprises the western part of the old Ter- ritory of Kansas, and portions of the for- mer Territories of Nebraska, New Mexico, and Utah. Knowledge of this region con- tinued very meagre till 1858, at whicli time mining operations were first com- menced. In May, 1859, the famous Greg- ory mines were discovered, and immigra- tion set in rapidly. The estimated popu- lation of Colorado, in 1863, was 45,000, exclusive of 15,000 tribal Indians. The principal pursuits of the people are mining and agriculture. Cwoliteia City, the capital of Colo- rado, has a population of about 1,000. It is situated at the base of the moun- tains, 15 miles from Denver. I>eiivea-. — Hotels, the Pacific, corner of Larimer and G Streets, is a well-kept house ; the Iremont and the Planters'. — Denver, the principal city of Colorado, is at the confluence of Cherry Creek with the South Fork of the Platte River, 13 miles from the base of the Rocky Mountains. It is one of the main points on tlie great overland line between Omaha and Great Salt Lake, and commands considerable trade and travel. It is distant 580 miles west of Omaha, and 586 miles east of Salt Lake City. The first house in this vicin- ity was built in the fall of 1857, at a place then called Montana, which was deserted in 1859. Denver, formerly St. Charles, and named after Governor Denver, was commenced October, 1858. The first coach of the Leavenworth and Pike's Peak Express Company arrived May 7, 1859. The city v/as incorporated Novem- ber 7, 1860. It now contains about 6,000 284 inhabitants and several fine buildinggi among which are 3 hotels, 2 theatres, auOj 2 priutiug-oSices and newspapers — the Rochj Mountain JVcivs and Denver Daili/ The Mintis worth visiting. But themairi attractions of Denver and its locality an the views of the mountains which raisi their lofty summits to the west, north, am: south. Seventy miles to the south Pib' Peal; like some old castle, "majesti( though in ruin," lies dim and soft againsi the sky. The mountain is well worthy tis name a noble State. Though not th highest, it is probably the grandest of tin whole Rocky Mountain I'ange. The vici from the summit is thus described by recent traveller : " Eastward, for a btir dred miles, our eyes wandered over tli dim, dreamy prairies, spotted by the dar shadows of the clouds, and the deepi green of the pineries, intersected by tli faint, gray lines of the roads, audemeral threads of timber along the streams, an bmded, on the far horizon, with a girdi of gold. To the north we could trace th Platte for seventy miles, while far to tl south swept the green timbers of tl Arkansas, and then rose the Spanis Peaks of New Mexico, a hundred mii away. Eight or ten miles distant, tv little gem-like lakes nestled among tl rugged mountains, revealing even tl shadoivs of the rocks and pines in tin transparent waters. Far beyond, a gvoi; of tiny lakelets glittered and sparkl like a clusters of stars." Forty miles to the north of the tov stands Long'^s Peak, distinct, rugged, a corrugated — its feet wreathed in pine, a its head crested with snow. A dark, regular, variegated wall sweeps graiu between them, at the verge of the sensil TES.] COLORADO. [Centeal City. izon, and beyond, on either side, ges into the dreamy, debatable ground ween earth and lieaven. The moun- is, at the nearest point, ten miles from Djver, afford a view unexcelled upon j continent. Some sixty miles south Denver, on the road to Pike's Peak, remarkable region of natural mon- n^uts of stone, which assume various Listie forms. Upright shafts of rock standing, over a track twenty miles nfength. Some crowning summits of lil look like immense castles built with jclject symmetry by humau hands. But ult have the size and shape of grave- ;tles and monuments, and thickly ;tl the ground for hundreds of acres. ^tjuing in the midst of pine-groves, h| give the precise effect of a well- ihled cemetery filled with memorials )f the dead. Near Colorado City they ;u|inate in an immense gateway of solid •o|, known as the entrance to the Gar- leJpf the Gods. Iages from Denver. — Wells, Fargo, mICo.'s stages, carrying the mails, leave iJerer, for the mountain cities, every nc|ing at seven. Fare, up, $8.00. '|e same stage line starts a coach from Derer to Omaha, via the Platte and U. P. il. 1. route, every morning at six o'clock. Mil via Smoky Hill route to Leaven- voji, every afternoon at four o'clock. bailthrough by either route $100. Their bodies start also daily for Salt Lake, VIolana, and California, at seven o'clock :;ac[morning. Fare to Salt Lake City, 1-1 e Southern Colorado and New Mex- tage Line leaves Denver eveiy Mon- Wednesdav, and Friday mornings, to Santa F6, $105. nail hack lc;ives for the South Park, River, and Upper Arkansas Mines, Thursday morning. Fare $12 to Uu4kin Joe. A mail hack leaves for Boulder County every Wednesday and Saturday morning. Fare to Boulder City, $2.50. UlacBc Mj6-«'1s is an important mining town in Gilpin County, 40 miles west of Denver. It contains 2 churches, and numerous schools. Stages connect it with Denver. The Mining Journal is published here. The St. Charles Hotel and Afountaiii House have moderate ac- comodations. CeiaSi-itl City, the capital of Gil- l^in County, and a mountain mining town of importance, is also west of Denver. It is the centre of the famous Gregory gold mines. A number of mills are in opera- tion here, and large quantities of gold dust are exported. The Times, published daily, contains all items of interest to travellers through the Rocky Mountains. The first house was erected in 1859. It now contains 4 churches, 2 schools, and a population of 4,000. St. Nicholas Hotel, Keystone House, and Connor House. Empire City, on the North Clear Creek, 15 miles from Central City, is in a rich lode-mining region. Its population is 1,000. Coloa-ado City is near the base of Pike's Peak, on Fontaine que Brouille, a tributary of the Arkansas. It is 100 miles south of Denver. Caisom City is on the Arkansas, 120 miles south of Denver. Pueblo is 40 miles below Caiion City, and 100 miles southwest of Denver. Hamilton, Montgomery, and Torry are situated 100 miles west of Denver, among the southwestern lode mines. They are all growing settlements. Other thriving settlements are found upon the western slope of the Snowy Range Mountains, among the silver mines and the quartz-lode mines of that re- gion. 285 Yankton.] DACOTAH. [Vermilioi D AGO T AH Dacotah was organized as a Territory March 2, 1861. It is situated directly west of Minnesota and on the northwestern part of Iowa. It has absorbed much of the western part of the old Territory of Min- nesota, and of the eastern part of Ne- braska. Its length from east to west is about '750 miles, and its area 152,000 square miles. The western part of the Territory is very mountainous. The Eocky Mountain range extends along the western boundary. The Black Hills, which belong to the Eocky Mountain range, traverse the more central and southern portion. Fremont's Peak and Laramie Peak belong to this range. The principal rivers are the Missouri, the Eed Eiver of the North, and the North Fork of the ' Platte. The Missouri washes its eastern and southern border, and drains a large portion of the Territory. The climate of Dacotah is healthful and genial, and the soil is well suited to agri- cultural and gTazLng purposes, being rich in the yield of gi'ain, fruits, and vegeta- bles. The first white settlements were made in 1858-59 at Sioux Falls, Vermil- ion, and Yankton. The Yankton and the Ponca Indians, also the Winnebago, the Sioux, and the Santee tribes (recently re- moved from Minnesota), have extensive reservations on the Missouri Eiver and on the Niobrara above Yankton. They 286 are reported- to have become domes' cated, and to be devoting themselves agriculture and stock-raising. Dacot; has numerous lakes, the largest of whii is Winni-Waken or Devil Lake. Ti principal avenues of travel to and throu; the Territory are by boat up the Missoi River to Yankton, or by the overland ni; line to Fort Laramie. A bill organizi the Territory of Wyoming, out of Dae tah, was introduced in the 38th Congre but failed to pass. TanJcton, the capital, is situati on the west bank of the Missouri, 7 mi above the mouth of the Dacotah Riv and 65 miles north of the Iowa lii^ Population, 750. The other principal .■^ tlements are Big Sioux Point, Elk Poi Maley Creek, Vermilion, BonhomD Greenwood, and Fort Eandall. F Abercrombie is on the Eed Eiver of i Noi-th, near the Minnesota line. Lai quantities of valuable furs and peltr are obtained from Dacotah ; and reccni indications have appeared of the ex euce, in the Black Hills, 300 miles w from Yankton, of good supplies of gc iron, and coal. T'ei'miiioii. is on the Missc Eiver, 30 miles southeast of Yankl near the mouth of the Big Sioux Ri' Here is located the United States La Office for the Territory. ACEOSS THE CONTINENT. i^BLE OF DISTANCES FR02I SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK, BY STEAMBOAT, STAGE, AND RAILWAY. 123 Miles. Miles. ri'in San Francisco 'pACKAMENTo (by steamtoat) m Sacramento TArcade 1^ "intelope 15 ■ unction 18 oclclin 22 ino 25 ewcastle 31 'Inburn 36 lipper Gap 43 olfas 54 old Pain 64 latch Flat 6T Ita 69 liarty Eun 78 lue Canon 78 migrant Gap S4 "'isco 93 pmrait 105} ruckee Eiver 120 tate Line 138 lEGiNiA City 162 Fr 1 Yirsinia City To 162 evada 33 tton wood 50 Id River 66 illwater 81 ountain Wells 96 lirview 112 est Gate 127 >ld Springs 141 iwarda's Creek 156 ew Pass 170 ount Airy 1S4 ;ese Eiver 195 astin 204 ipc Horn 218 ry (Jreek 234 •iiVs Wells 250 jberts's Creek 263 ilphur Springs 273 amond Mountain Springs 292 cob's Well 304 tiBY Valley. .'. 319 319 Enby Valley Duntain Springs 10 itte Wells Station 27 ran CaOon 42 Imdary Line between Nevada and Utali. e Central Pacific Eailway connections, p. Miles. Miles. To Sbell Creek .58 " Spring Valley 72 " Antelope Springs 88 " Eigbt-mile Station Ill " Deep Creek 119 " Canon Station (silver mines) 132 " Willow Springs 147 " Boyd's Well 157 '■ Fish Springs 168 " Black Eock 171 " Dngway Station 187 '' Eiver Bed 197 " Simpson's Springs 207 ' " Point Lookout '.. .224 " Eiish Valley 233 " Centre Station 244 " Fort Crittenden 2.')4 • " Jordan Eiver Station 265 " Point of Mountain 276 " Mill Creek 30I " Salt Lake Citt .311 811 From San Francisco to Great Salt Lake 917 From Omaha To Pappillion 17J '• Elkhoi-n 2SJ- '• Tremont 46j " North Bend 6li " Shell Creek [ 7g| " Columbus 91^ " Silver Creek 109 " Lone Tree 18]^ " Grand Island 153} " Wood Eiver 171^ " Kearney , .'..J 90 " Elm Creek 211 " Plum Creek " [930 " Willow Island 250 " Brady Island 268 " NoKTH Platte ; 290 290 From North Platte To Bishop's (swing station) 10 " Fremont Springs 20 " Bakers 29 " Bradstreet's '....'.'.'. 38 " Alkali (home station) 46 " Sand Hills 56 " Diamond Springs .'..'. 67 " Elbow ■ 77 " Buttes .".'!!!.'!! 87 " Julesburg (home station) ....... 96 " Fort Sedgwick, 97 " Gillett's (swing station) ! ! [1O6 " Antelope , ijs " Mound .'!.!!!!i!l29 " Eivcrsides (home station). !."."!.'.".!l39 " Valley Station (swing station) 149 287 TABLE OF DISTANCES. Allies. Alilea, To Fairview 101 " Godfrey's (home station) IT'2 '• Boaver Creek (swing station) l>-3 " Douglas's Eanche 195 " 'Junction (home station) '20G " Biiou (Swing station) 21S " Eock Bluffs asi " Mule Creek -241 " Living Springs (home station) 249 " Kiowa (swing station) 259 '• Box Alder 2T0 " Toll Gate 281 " Dexver 290 290 " I Golden City (swing station). . . . ) 303 " ■< Lake House (swing station) V 313 " ( Michigan House (swing station)., j 319 " Cesteal City (swing station) 331 331 From Denver To Church's (swing station) -. . . 11 ■ Boulder 22 " Burlington (Tiome station) 33 " Little Thompson (swing station).. . 43 " Big Thompson 53 " Spring Canon 63 La Porte (home station) 71 Overland Park (swing station) 81 Virginia Dale (loine station") 89 ■Willow Springs (swmg station) 103 Bis Laramie (home station) 113 Little Laramie (swing station) 135 Cooper's Creek i^home station) 150 Medicine Bow (^swiiig station) 161 Eock Creek 169 TVagon Hound 171 Elk Mountain (home statitin) 1T9 Pass Creek (swing station) 191 Is"orth Platte (tome station) 207 Sage Creek (swing station) 222 Pine Grove 232 Bridger Pass 243 ■ Sulphur Springs (home station) .... 251 Waskie (swing station) 262 Duck Lake 275 Dug Spring 287 La Clede (home station) 303 Big Pond (swing station) 313 Black Buttes (swing station) 329 Eock Point 343 Salt Wells 356 Eock Springs 361 Green Elver (home station) 378 Lone Tree (swing station) 393 Antelope 401 South Bend 410 Church Buttes 423 Millersville 450 Fort Bridger (home station) 463 Muddy (swing station) 475 Quaking Asp 4S5 Bear Eiver (home station.) 495 Ueedle Eock (swing station) 505 Echo Cauon 515 Hanging Eock 523 Weber (home station) 535 Daniel's (swing statiim) 547 Kimball's (home station) 559 Hardy's (swing station) 573 Salt "Lake City 596 596 Recapitulation. San Fiaucisco to Sacramento (steamboat).. 125 Sacramento to Cisco (railway) 93 28S Cisco to Virginia City (stage) ,' Virginia City to Euhy Valley (stage) :j: Euby Valley to Great" Salt Lake City (stage) ;{. Great Salt Lake City to Denver (stiire) .', Denver to North Platte, terminus of L'. P. E. E. (Stage) ." '^, JiTorth Platte to Omaha (U. P. Eailway) ." w., Omaha to Chicago (C. & N. W. E. E.)....i 4;,, Chicago to ifew York, tia Pittsburg ■ Dun Glen to Humboldt Bridge 23i- 8:' Humboldt Bridire to Toll Hoiise 11 $'. Toll House to Willow Point SJ 31 Willow Point to Cane Springs lo} S-'' Cane Springs to Rebel Creek 15 ST Rebel Creek to Camp McDermott....24 'Si' Camp McDerraott to Summit Springs.25 i'l Summit Springs to Dry Creek 15 4-S Dry Creek to Owyhee Eiver Ferry... "21} 4o Ferry to Inskip's or Cow Creek 19 4" Inskip's to Camp Lyon 18} 49 Camp Lyon to Euby City 14 5>' Euby City to Snake Eiver Ferry 23 M Ferry to Boise City 26 5(i Distance bv Eaih-oad 98 Distance by Wagon-Koad 469J id Central Pacific Kailroad Conne tions. At Junction, IS miles from Sacramento. • road connects with the California Centrr Tuba Eailroadi, completed within t mi. ■ Mai-ysville, where a connection will be Itr:. with the Oroi-ille liailroad, and thence stages, alfording transportation to thefollo\f places : Lincoln, 11 miles from Junction ; Mar ville (33) ; Oroville (59) ; Chico (79) ; Teba (111) ; Red Bluffs (123) ; Shasta (153) ; Ti-ib Centre (20S) ; Callahan's (233); Treka (273) : P' land, Oregon, 622 mUes. At Aubunu% ni from Sacramento, stages to Ophir (4\ and ti HiU (6 miles) ; also to Greenwood (12), • Georgetown (16 miles); also to Grizzly E House (6) ; Yankee Jim's (IS) ; Forrest Hill i; and Michigan Bluff's, 2S miles. At Colja^ miles from Sacramento, with stages to Grass ^ ley (12) ; Nevada (16) : San Juan (30) : ;ind D" ie"ville (53 miles). Also to Iowa Hill (6).^ eonsin Hill (3). and Yankee Jim's (12 mil Also to You Bet. Walloupa. Eed Dog, and Li York, from 6 to 10 miles distant. At Ci'C miles from Sacramento, with Enterprise (4). Meadow Lake (12 miles). Also with sUvi";- the Great Overland Eoute. THE SOUTHEE]^ TOUE. 13 ■63 37 1 \ MARYLA]^D 'he country which now forms the State jMaryland, was granted to Lord Balti- e by Charles I., and was named in i(lor of Henrietta Maria, Queen of tliat larch. Maryland is one of the most hern of the late slaveholding States, the most southern of the group dis- ijuished as the Middle States. It is of the original thirteen, he first permanent settlement in Mary- was made at St. Mary's, by Leonard ert, brother of Lord Baltimore, in It was one of the earliest of the nies to grant entire freedom of relig- faitli — virtually, though not, as is 1 written and said, by formal legal tments. The emigrants in their own Js still bear the title of " Pilgrims of lary's." aryiand was not the theatre of any of »reat battles of the Revolution ; but important scenes of the war of look place within her borders. The of the State were at that period invaded by the British troops, were bravely met and repulsed at battle of North Point, in tlie Chesa- e, September 13, 1814. During the dlion of 1861-65, repeated invasions le State were made by Confederate resulting in great destruction of :rty, especially on the line of the more and Ohio Railway. y; The area of the State is 10,210 square miles, a portion of which is covered by the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, which extends within its jurisdiction 120 miles northward. The State is naturally divided into three distinct geographical sections. The first section comprises that portion Ijing east of the Susquehanna River and Chesa- peake Bay, known as the " Eastern Shore," and which contains the counties of Wor- cester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Car- oline, Queen Anne, Kent, and Cecil. The second section, comprising what is usu- ally called the " Western Shore," consists of another peninsula, lying inland, be- tween the Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay, and up to the line of the river falls, and comprises the counties of St. Mary's, Calvert, Charles, Prince George, Anne Arundel, Howard, and parts of Montgom- ery, Baltimore and Harford, an area of about 3,698 square miles. A ledge of primitive rocks, which constitute the lead- ing geographical feature of this section, forms the natural boundary between the alluvial region and the mountainous dis-' trict of Maryland, which latter consti- tutes the third section of the State. Era- braced in this section are Carroll, Freder- ick, Washington, and Alleghany Counties, which cover an area of 2,590 square miles, and afford some of the most pictur 291 Baltimore.] MAEYLAXD. [Baltimoi esque scenery to be found in the State. The country upon both the eastern and western shores of the bay is generally level and sandy. The long narrow strip which extends westward is a lofty region, crossed by several ridges of the Allegha- nies. These ranges, vrith. their interven- ing valleys, afford charming landscape passages to the traveller, on the route of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, and make that highway one of the most at- tractive of the many leading from the Eastern cities to the great West. The hill-region of Maryland abounds in rich mineral deposits. The coal lands, though not very extensive, are extremely pro- ductive. Copper mines are worked in Frederick and Carroll Counties. Besides the culture of all the grains, fruits, vegetables, and other products of the Northern States, Maryland gi'ows large quantities of tobacco. The State ranks, in the production of this staple, as third in the Union, and, measuring by population, as second. BALTIMOEE, 98 miles from Philadelphia, 186 from New York, via Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Havre de Grace. Hotels. — Barnuni's {City), on Monu- ment Square, corner Fayette and Calvert Streets, is a long-established and deserv- edly popular house. Eooms large and well ventilated. The main apartment dining-room has just been refitted and furnished, at an expense of ten thousand dollars. Has accommodation for 600 guests. TJie Eutaio House, corner W. Baltimore and Eutaw Streets, in the west end of the city, is pleasantly situated for famihes. Its management entitles it to rank among the best hotels in the coun- try. The Fomitam, in Light Street, the Maliby, in Pratt Street, and G^ihnour's, in Baltimore Street, are conveniently located, and am^rg the iDcst of their class in the city. Restaurants are numerous, and generally well kept. The oysters of the Chesapeake and its tributaries have long been famous. Baltimore, one of the four great East- ern cities, with a population of ov er 240,- 292 000, is imposingly situated upon the noi side of the Patapsco River, 1 2 miles fn its entrance into the Chesapeake Bay, a about 200 miles, by these waters', fn the sea. Built, as it is, upon hill-sic and terraces, its appearance is at oi imposing and picturesque. Strikin" deed, to the stranger, is the unlooked- scene, as he gazes from the water upwa through the climbing streets, capped their tops by soaring spire and dome, whose midst, and above all, soars proud crest of the famous monument ■ Washington; and hardly less attract: is the picture as the eye looks downw from these elevated points upon the b city and its surrounding lands and wat The present site of Baltimore ■ chosen in 1729, and its name was ; stowed upon it, in 1745, in honor of 1: Baltimore. In 1780 it became a per entry, with the accompaniments of i tom-house, naval officers, etc. In 1 the first pavements were laid on B more Street, the chief avenue of the . at that period, as at the present tima the same year the first regular commi cation with Philadelphia was establiR' through a line of stage-coaches, charter of the city bears date as lati: 1797. The population, which at this ■', was 26,000, had increased by the 1854 to nearly 200,000. In 1S60 it • 212,418. The next census wUl vmdc edly show a still gi-eater ratio of incrc and so, each succeeding enumerati< for the natural advantages of the promise it ever-increasing progress. As laid out, it includes an area of miles square, and extends nearly r the bay. The harbor is capacious safe, and consists of an inner basin, which vessels of considerable burdei enter, and an outer harbor at wh; known as FelFs Point, accessible t( largest merchant ships. The entran defended by Fort McHenry, which fi| conspicuously in the war of 1812. harbor is seldom obstructed by i fact which adds to the commerce o port during the winter months. J Falls, a small stream from the i spanned by several wooden bridge vides the city into two nearly equal ; which are known locally as East West Baltmiore. From these falL H LTIMOEE.] MARYLAND. [Baltimore. Slinn Lake, six miles beyond, the city hi a never-failing supply of fine water. T ^ streets are regular and well paved, alj the houses built mainly of brick, ji marble or granite facings. The city ivided into twenty wards, and has an 2fctive, well-regulated fire department, ng the early days of the late rebel- the city was the scene of considera- loting. On the 19th April, 1861, on tl^passage of Massachusetts troops (6th ent infantry) through the city, crowds cted at the depot and along the hne ute, and stoned the cars and soldiers : nil citizens were killed during the course ome riot and many more were wounded. Tijnty-five of the wounded soldiers were to the Washington Hospital. The ng was mainly on Pratt Street, be- twhn South and Howard. Iiltimore has been called " The Monu- mffltal City," and not inappropriately, for itsponuments are its greatest ornaments. Cc|tituting as they do not only a source of|uch pride to its citizens, but the .leiing objects of interest to strangers, thJ command our first attention. le Washington Monument is chief an ig the structures of this kind. It is a vei graceful work,staudiug upon a terrace lO'i'eet above tide-water, in Mt. Vernon Pli ?, at the intersection of Charles and Mc iment Streets. Its base is 50 feet ?qire and 20 feet high, supporting a< Do 3 shaft 176 J- feet in height, which is ■"sui ounted by a colossal statue of Wash- iio n, 16 feet high. " The Father of his Jo 'try " is represented in the crowning ■ictf his military life, the resignation of "lisommission as commander-in-chief at -inipolis, Dec. 17, 1783. The total ele- 'i'-^atn is thus 31 2 i- feet above the level ■ *)f e river. It is built with brick, cased A'itj white marble, and cost $200,000. ''rci the balcony of the monument the sincl view of the city, harbor, river, and •smrlunding country is obtained. Access ""■ I'a circular stairway within. Applica- '>r admission should be made to the , who will furnish the necessary i/lle Ifonumenf, erected to the mem- ryf those who fell defending the city ptcmber, 1814, is at the corner of -r^ial irt and Fayette Streets,ncar Barnum's sJto1^ The square sub-base on which the pedestal or column rests rises 20 feet from the ground, with an Egyptian door on each front, on which are api^ropriate inscriptions and representations, in basso- relievo, of some of the incidents of the battle. The column rises 18 feet above the base. This, which is of marble, in the form of a Roman fasces, is encircled by bands, on which are inscribed, in sculptured letters, the names of those whose patriotic achievements it serves to commemorate. It is surmounted by a female figure in marble, emblematic of the City of Baltimore, the work of an Italian artist named Capellauo. The whole height of the monument is 52-^ feet. Armislead Monument, near the City Spring, is merely a tablet, sunken in a subterranean niche. It was erected to the memory of Col. George Armistead, the commander at Fort McHenry, in 1814, through whose intrepidity a British fleet of sixteen sail was rejjulsed, after having bombarded the fort for twenty-four hours. This stone is sometimes spoken of abroad as among the monumental wonders of Baltimore — to which glory, however, it has no kind of claim. Baltimoreana themselves seldom speak of it. Public Buildings. — The Ezcliange, in Gay Street, is a large and elegant struc- ture, with a fa9ade of 240 feet. The building has colonnades of six Ionic col- umns on its east and west sides, the shafts of which are single blocks of fine Italian marble, of admirable workmanship. The whole is surmounted by an immense dome, the apex of which is 115 feet above the street. The Custom House occupies the first story of the south wing of the Exchange, fronting on Lombard Street. In the northeast part of the building is the Merchants' Bank, while the Rotun- da is used for the City Fosi- Office. The Rcadmg-Room is a fine apartment, 50 feet square. Original cost of the whole struc- ture $600,000. Subsequent improvements have increased this to nearly one million dollars. The Maryland Institute, on Baltimore Street, near the bridge, is an imposing edifice 355 feet long by 60 feet wide. The first story of this immense building is occupied as a place of public vendue, and known as the " Centre Market." The 293 Baltimore.] MARYLAND. [BALTuuna, three-story edifice fronting on Baltimore Street, contains the library and offices. The main hall, 260 feet by 60, is devoted to the Annual Exhibitions of American In- dustry, Fairs, and other similar purposes. It will accommodate five thousand per- sons. The cost of the structure was about $100,000. The JS^eio City HalJ, on Holiday Street, is a plain, substantial buildiug of three stories, with a massive-looking portico. The Court House, corner of Monument Square and Lexington Street, is a commo- dious and commanding building, 145 feet by 65, two stories in height, consti'ucted of marble and brick, appropriated to the puri^oses of the City and County Courts. It is ornamented with white marble pilas- ters, in the modern Ionic style, and sur- mounted by a cupola of imposing appear- ance'. Its interior appointments are ex- cellent. The new IT. 8. Court House, corner of Korth and Fayette Streets, is a massive granite structure, not yet quite completed. The City Prisons and State Peniteniiary, fronting on Madison Street, east of the Falls, are worthy a visit. The former building, more popularly known as the "Jail," was built in 1857-60, from de- signs by the Messrs. Dixon, at a cost of $250,000. The building is 404 feet long, and comprises a centre building and two wings. The exterior walls of the build- ing are of rubble masonry, the stone be- ing from the adjacent quanies on Jones' Falls. It is a substantial and well-ar- ranged prison. The Penitentiary consists of three large buildings, occupying nearly four acres, laid out in gardens and slirubbery, and surrounded by a stone wall 20 feet high. The convicts are principally employed in the mechanic arts. The County Prison, near the latter institution, is a neat edifice, with castellated towers and surmounted by a cupola. The Corn and Flour Exchange, on South Street, corner of Wood Street, is a substantial structure. Churches. — There are upward of one hundred and sixty churches, chapels, and religious meeting-houses in Baltimore, with accommodation for upward of 100,- 000 persons. Of these, 44 are Methodist, 20 are Episcopal, and the same number 294 Boman Catholic. The Presbyterians \mi< j 15 places of worship, the Baptists 9, ^ii the Jews 6. ,. I The most imposing church edifice igi the Catholic Cathedral, corner of Cathe^l dral and Mulberry Streets. It is built oft granite, in the form of a cross, and is 190 J feet long, I'Z'Z broad at the arms of the ' cross, and 127 feet high, from the floortoi ; the top of the cross which surmounts flie \ dome. The building is v/ell hghted by: ! windows in the dome, which are concealed^i from the view of persons below. Atfte west end rise two tall towers, crowied. with Saracenic cupolas, resembling fte ' minarets of a Mohammedan niosqBe.f This church is said to have the laigprt;,: organ in the United States, having 6,j80, pipes and 36 stops. The interior is oiiiiH mented with two excellent paintiDp:i one, " The Descent from the Cross," |ifr], sented by Louis XVI.; the other, %t Louis burying his Ofiicers and Sol^' \ slain before Tunis," the gift of Chalesi. X., of France. This edifice though itfe; rior in architectural proportions and cist- ly ornamentation to many other of tiw Roman Catholic cathedrals and chuE in the Union, in the solidity of ita< struction and massive appearance celled by none. The P'irst Presbyterian Church, sitn at the corner of Madison and Park Sti( 4S much admired for its simplicity!, . elegance of architectural finish. B iil constructed of free stone from the " Aljoi!; Quarries" of Xew Brunswick, in {Bk "Lancet Gothic" style of architectiiret.i and is one of the most elaborate sjIBd-) , mens of that order in the country. ■ It was commenced in 1855, under the to' [ perintendence of Mr. N. G. Starkweaflter,! and finished the following year, fb ' building is 131 feet in depth, exclusiflBiH'-; transept, and 87 feet wide. The tflWfl is 268 feet — the highest in the city;:Ai • interior is beautifully and appropris ornamented. The UnitaTian, C'/mrcA (First Indef ent), at the intersection of North Chsi and Franklin Streets, ranks next tO'thi^ above in architectural beauty. This edi? fice is 108 feet long and 78 wide. Ii front is a colonnade, consisting of fM Tuscan columns and two pilasters, wh^ form the arcades. Above, extendJD jiriMOEE.] MARYLAND. [Baltimore. d the pediment, is a cornice, decora- ith emblematic figures and inscrip- From the portico the entrance is ronze doors, in imitation of the Vati- ai|at Home — three conducting to the )or of the building, and two to the gal- ers. le Catholics, who are a numerous and ve thy part of the community, have in di :ion to the Cathedral various elegant hi3h edifices, among which may be Lieioned that of Sf. Alphonsus, at the oibr of Saratoga and Park Streets, li has a spire of 200 feet; and that Vincent de Paul, in N. Front Street. Chicrch (Episcopal), corner of loliment and Park Streets, is a fine men of the Gothic, in red sandstone. : by is another Episcopal church, jrothic, built of gray sandstone. St. s Church, at the corner of Charles Saratoga Streets, is a pleasing exam- F the Norman style ; $142,000 were ided in its construction. ARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, ETC. The it};3 well provided with institutions of leifolenee and charity. 1e Maryland Hospital for the Insane icc hies an eminence on East Monument are;, in the eastern part of the city. It 3 a|irge brick building, with three cupo- xs.\ Mount Hope Hospital, conducted by he listers of Charity, is in Madison itr(|;, near the northwestern limits of he ty. Near the University, in Lom- lar' Street, is the Baltimore Infirmary. t ij controlled by the Regents of the Jui rsity. In the western part of the ity s the Aged M^doirs' Home, a new nd [egant edifice ; near it a similar build- ng is been erected for aged men. T; Blind Asyhan (Maryland Institu- ion )r the Instruction of the Blind), on Ve: Saratoga Street, is a flourishing hai y, well worthy a visit. It was or- ;aniid in 1853, previous to which date he lildrenwere maintained at the Penn- ylv lia Asylum, located in Philadelphia, ;iid an annual appropriation from the larind Legislature. The cost of the '1 ig was about $27,000, and the num- ir.mates is limited to twenty. The c, of tlie accommodation alforded by tiis|stitutiou is quite inadequate to the lUrriH' and needs of these poor sufferers hrd;hout the city and State. The Church Home, formerly the old AVashington College, is situated on Broad- way, near Baltimore Street. It belongs to the Protestant Episcopal Church of the city, is superintended by a committee of ladies from the several Episcopal churches, and is endowed for the relief of the destitute, afflicted, and orphans. The elevated situation of this structure, in a healthy neighborhood, overlooking the city and bay, especially fits it for such a Home. The Orphan Asylums of St. Anthony (de Padua) and of St. Vincent cle Paul, the former on Canal, near Madison Street, and the latter No. 23 N. Front Street, are flourishing Roman Catholic institutions, with free schools attached. The House of Refuge and the city Almshouse are ad- mirably situated amidst attractive scenery near the Frederick turnpike, about two miles from the city. In addition to these, Baltimore contains numerous institutions for the relief and support of the poor, afiiicted, and friendless. Literary Institutions, etc. — The Uni- versity of Maryland is at the intersection of Green and Lombard Streets. The Medical Department of the University was founded in the year 1807. The Col- lege of loyola is at the corner of Madison and Calvert Streets. The Athcnceum, which is at the corner of Saratoga and St. Paul Streets, is occupied conjointly by the Mercantile Library Association, the Bcdiimore Library, and the Maryland Hist. Society. The Library of the Mer- cantile Association numbers nearly 20,000 volumes; the Baltimore Library 15,000, and the collection of the Historical Soci- ety upward of 1,000. It is in the gal- lery of the Historical Society that the an- nual exhibitions of pictures are held. Admission to these libraries from 10 a. m. to 10 p. M. The Peabody Institute, corner of Charles and Monument Streets, founded by George Peabody, the eminent London banker, is a massive structure of white marble, re- cently completed. It is designed for lit- erary and scientific purposes, and will when fully endowed contain a library and fine arts gallery. The Lecture-Room is ad- mirably constructed, and has sittings for 700 pei'sons. The St. Mary's College, a Roman Cath- 295 n Baltimore.] MARYLAND. [Baltiuo^iISx olic theological institution, founded 1*799, is at the corner of Franklin and Greene Streets. McKini's Free School, on East Baltmiore Street, was founded by the lib- erality of the late Isaac McKim The Marj/Icaid College of Pharmacy, No. 47 N. Calvert Street. Lectures on Pharmacy, Chemistry, and Materia Med- ica during the winter months. Theatres, etc. — Holiday Street Theatre, in Holiday Street, two squares from Bar- num's Hotel, is the well-known and popu- lar resort of theatre-goers in Baltimore. It is worthy of remembrance that it is the oldest temple of the Drama in the United States. The first theatrical enter- tainments given in Baltimore were con- ducted in a frame building, erected about the year 1*780. The present structure was opened May 10, 1814, under the management of Messrs. Wood & Warren. It was enlarged and remodelled in 1854 at an expense of $50,000. It is under the management of Mr. J. T. Ford, and has accommodations for 1,500 persons. Front Street {American) Theatre, in Front Street near Gay. The Concordia (German), on S. Eutaw, is a well-conducted establishment. Buf- fet, lunch, and billiard rooms attached. Admission to the latter through a mem- ber of the society. The Museum is on the corner of Baltimore and Calvert Streets. Like "Barnum's" in New York, it serves to gratify the juvenile dramatic taste. The New Casino (Melodeon) is on Bal- timore Street (comic songs and minstrel- sy). The New Assembly Rooms, the fash- ionable lecture and concert rooms of the city, are at the intersection of Hanover and Lombard Streets. Carroll Hall, at the corner of Balti- more and Calvert Streets, also contains spacious lecture and exhibition rooms. The Halls of the fraternities of Masons and Odd Fellows, the former in the Gothic, the latter in the Grecian style of architecture, are conspicuous buildings. Parks, Squares, etc. — Druid Hill Park is a noble pleasance of 550 acres, pleas- antly situated in the northern suburbs of the city. It was opened in October, 1861, and abounds in venerable trees and beau- tiful shrubbery. It is easily reached from Baltimore Street by Madison Avenue cars. Union Square is a pleasant resort, em- 296 bracing an area of between two and thrjl acres, at the head of West Lombarf Street. It was laid out in 1851 ; a spring of most delicious water flows from % centre of the square. ^' Franklin Square, corner of Faytijle and Carey Streets ; and Jackson Square on Hampstead Street, east of Broadway. Patterson Park, on East Baltimore Street, contains 36 acres, and embraces the earthworks thrown up for defence of the city in the war of 1812. The % Spring, on North Calvert Street, near Saratoga, enclosed by an iron railing, and surrounded by umbrageous elm-trees, is an inviting retreat for the thirsty pedtg. trian during the heats of summer. Nflm this spring is the Armistead monument^ before referred to. Federal Hill. — From the Signal Houge on this eminence a fine, pei'haps the beflt, view of the city and surroundings is to be had. ° j| Cemeteries. — Green Mount Cam- tery is a charming rural spot, abou^ mile and a half from Battle Monument, The stone gateway, forming the entranoe, at the junction of Belvidere Street and York Avenue, and the chapel, are miiiih admired. It was incorporated in 183?. The cost of grounds and iniprovemeDts exceeds a quarter of a million dollaM. City office, No. 1 Courtland Street. Loudon Park Cemetery, on the Fredte- erick road, about two miles from the city, is another charming City of the Dead. The grounds, which embrace 100 acres of land, are of diversified characten and admirably adapted for the purposes of sepulture. The gateway is an iin- posing structure 72 feet wide. City offite, 56 W. Fayette. Mount Olivet, on fe Frederick pike, is a pretty rural burying- ground. An enclosure similar in extflnt to that of Loudon Park, known as the Baltimore Cemetery, is reached by taking North Gay Street to the limits. There are other burial-grounds in and near Baltimore, two of which are known as Moimt Carmel and the Western, but tiiej will hardly repay a visit after you hais seen Green Mount and Loudon Park. '" Drives, Walks, etc. — North Point,ii the mouth of the Patapsco, was the scene of a memorable battle, September 12, 1814, between the Americans, un- Umoee.] MARYLAND, (pjeneral Stryker, and the British, un- irlJeneral Ross, in which the former jr, defeated, and the latter lost three ■nijianders. On the following day, ■p tnber 13th, Fort McHenry was bom- inid for tweuty-four hours, by sixteen iip| and a land force of 1,200 men. lefesailants were repulsed, and the for- esleft in the possession of its defend- '3. Tjs engagement at North Point and irlllcHenry is duly celebrated in Balti- orjpn each recurring anniversary, and :e jittle Monument, already described, asfected in commemoration thereof. Gjansiown, four miles from the city, 1 tl York road, has a well-kept hotel. .\ejold Sprinff House is passed on the ay. A line of street cars extends to .)\vlntown, three miles beyond. Fcr miles on the Philadelphia road is le ilage of Kingsville and the Herring '««i favorite spot for gudgeon fishing. FU McHenry, at the entrance to the irll, and distant about three miles omlhe centre of the city, ought not to 3 fcfcotten by the visitor to Baltimore. ispilt on the extremity of a peninsu- fo itli loci'S: [Baltimore. led on one side by the harbor and other by the Patapsco River. It sfully resisted the bombardment of le Ijitish fleet in 1814. Fi 'iklin, five miles from Baltimore, T(iv\\. well-shaded, well-laid turnpike id a tractive landscape. A road leading itl'rest from Franklin brings the visitor e old Frederick turnpike. On this re Mount de Sales, the Convent of itation, and St. Timothy's Hall. Re- l cityward, a number of beautiful V seats are passed. Byjrossing the Patapsco River at the lot I Light Street, the stranger will be [forijd an opportunity of visiting the ubi) city of Brooklyn, in the adjoin- Lg cl.nty of Anne Arundel. Arlng the promenades and rambles of le QT, Baltimore Street, west of Jones alls is perhaps the most attractive. 1 it e located the principal retail stores, ither repair those of both sexes ike " shopping " the great business W'k-day life. " Sun" Building, on the corner of lie and South Streets, has the first out erected in the city. It is a nd hoi large and highly ornamented structure. The " Sun " newspaper is issued daily and weekly from this building. The exten- sive news and periodical depot of Henry Taylor & Co. adjoins the Sun office on the east. The ofiice of the "American," the leading Republican journal of the State, is on the opposite side of Baltimore Street, west of South Street. Bendann Brothers, the eminent photographers, oc- cupy commodious rooms at No. 207. Gallery open from 10 to 5. Well-executed pictures and views of the public build- ings can be procured at this establish- ment. The largest and richest assort- ment of watches, jewelry, and silver ware, is to be found at the establishment of Messrs. Canfield, Brother & Co., No. 229 Baltimore Street. North Charles Street and Avenue are also pleasant promenades. In Mount Ver- non Place, and the vicinity of the Monu- ment, are some handsome residences. This constitutes the Belgravia of Balti- more, the favorite resort of the city's "best society." East Baltimore Street and Broadway, in the other end of the city, afford pleasant promenades. Crossing Jones Falls at the foot of Baltimore Street, the Church of St. Vincent de Paul and the cupola of the Front Street Theatre are seen north of the bridge. Proceeding eastward, the visitor will pass the Second Presbyterian Church, a fine Gothic structure, corner of Baltimore and Lloyd Streets, and many handsome residences, until he reaches Broadway, the boulevard of the East End. Turning southward, down Broadway, he can visit the Methodist, Presbyterian, and St. Patrick's Churches ; and further on the Fell's Point market house. The passen- ger depot building, and offices of the Balti- more & Ohio R. R. in Camden Street, be- tween Eutaw and Howard Streets, present an imposing appearance. The main front on Camden Street is upward of 300 feet long, and is one of the finest structures of the kind on the continent. The passen- ger depots of the Northern Central Rail- way, in Calvert Street, and of the Phil., Wil. & Bait. Railway in President Street, are large and costly structures. Tlie Shot Toiver, on the corner of Front and Fayette Streets, is a prominent ob- ject, and one which always elicits the 297 Baltimore.] MARYLAND. [ViCINW?. altentioii of the stranger. It is 246 feet liigli, and contains over one million bricks. Car and Stage Routes, Ferries, etc. — Car and sta.ge routes are laid in all the principal streets and avenues, and almost every object of interest mentioned in the foregoing pages is readily reached by this means. The following are the main lines of the City Passenger Railway : South Baltimore, from Baltimore at the intersection of Gay Street, to Light Street terminus, every ten minutes. Korth Baltimore, from Baltimore cor- ner Nortli Street, to end of Charles Street, every ten minutes. Franklin Square, from Baltimore Street West End, to Baltimore Cemetery, every five minutes. Madison Avenue, from Thames Street, East Baltimore to city limits, every five minutes. Canton line connects at Thames Street and runs to East City boundary at Canton. Pennsylvania Avenue, from city limits to Gay Street, every ten minutes. Running time. Summer 6 a. m., Winter 6|- A. M. till midnight. General ofSce corner Baltimore and Eutaw Streets. Yorh Road, from corner Baltimore and North Streets every hour, from 7 a. m. to 6 p. M. excepting 12 ii., connecting at North Avenue ; returning, leave Towson- town same hours. Time to Towsontown, 7 miles, 1 h. 15 min. Catonsville and jEllieoifs Mills, hourly from 7 A. M. to 8 p. m., terminus City Pas- senger Railway ; time to Catonsville, 6 miles, one hour. For such as prefer their own mode of conveyance, the livery stables and hack- men of the city aiford ample accommo- dation at reasonable rates. Stages run daily to Long Greene, Frauklintown, and Pikesville, and tri- weekly to Bel-air and Kellville (see Wood's City Directory, for points and time of de- parture). The rates of hack and coach fare in Baltimore are regulated by law, and pen- alties for over-charging are rigidly en- forced. Federal Hill Ferry, from City Block, foot of West Falls Avenue. Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad- way. 298 Expresses. — Adams' (freight and pack- age). — 164 W. Baltimore. McClintock's (baggage). — South End B. & 0. R. R. Depot. Renshaw's. — Northern Central Depot. Donaldson's. — President Street Depot. Telegraph Ofeices. — People's line, 23 South Street. U. S. line, 21 South Street. American, comer North and Baltimore with branches at the principal hotels. VICINITY. The river and shore scenery in the neighborhood of Baltimore oflf'ers great attractions to tourists and sportsmen. The Paiapsco River flows, 70 miles, from Carroll County, in the northern part .: of the State, to the Chesapeake Bay, which it enters 15 miles below the city of Balti- more. It is navigable as far as Baltimore for large merchant ships. It is a rapid stream, and is much utilized as a water- power. The Baltimore and Ohio Rail- way is built along the whole extent of the western branch of the river. The Susquehanna River enters the northeast corner of the State, not far from its debouclie into the Chesapeake Bay at Havre de Grace. It is foi-med by the union of two branches, known as the east and west branches, which unite at Northumberland, 60 miles above Harris- burg, Pa. The main stream is 150 miles in length, and is adorned by numerous beautiful islands and rocky rapids. The Potomac River forms the boundar) line between Maryland and Virginia Along its passage of 350 miles, from thi mountains to the Chesapeake Bay, thereii much beautiful and varied scenery. Th' landscape at its confluence with the Shec andoah, near Harper's Ferry, Virginia has long been famous among the chie picturesque wonders of America. Tli Falls of the Potomac, about 14 ini!< above Georgetown, D. C, will repay visit. The principal cascade is betwee. 30 and 40 feet perpendicular pitch, ar, the rocky cliffs on the Virginia side (ii the river have a very impressive aspec This river is navigable for ships of t!; line 200 miles to the Yt^ashington Na" Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9 miles beh the Capital, the river is more than a in wide, and nearly 8 miles wide at its conf TtJiFEJECEJSrCE . LlKtf.vftiVu;ty/i Minacf ^iBnttleMoTCianeiit SJSccliatigc i *_y? riace o GiStoyn JSouse j I'l^osr Office ; ^JuTcay'l.andJBeiiitim^. 'XOStu-qutftmiTuiSJiDe/M '13 tfolUaaySr Then "^Mett^iantsShotTow. \ \n Caftuflic CatJiedrdl 'iaSaltimore Col. il9 St2>£aTys College ^ZOEutaw JToitse i2lS.'SOJ7dl^£Wash.and m-ed^£ ainib er^UUep \22 CitySotel 124 IUldFello»':s1[cai SBxrosonic ISaU jnsBfflnnlhofenDnD li BEn DD GO DEIB no flD HO i nnn[inDD0|incDDnn' aanne'n&cGfinnocDD ffiGlZIZJDDnDGn T n ppDDGDnaflfiDDDnn . .BsaropQfflfflmCD iEbinDDn h:niliTnil!H!ilKiririnrinnnlrTin§innririn II r iHEli'Llifi :-:orc[;Q™g nni ury ago ; genuine " first families," with il pedigrees, hung up in the weather- icd halls of antediluvian homes; ma- homesteads, with big doors ever and surrounded with lordly acres. to form a just idea of the wonderful niul^' titudes and numberless varieties of ducks that darken these v/aters, and hover in interminable flocks over these famed feed- ing-grounds. It is not, however, the va- 299 ^'('Jf OS' ames toi- -oveRniargingnare -iTgiai;^ ^"^ forced. Federal Hill Ferry, from City Block, foot of West Falls Avenue. Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad- way. 298 T iie rivei n are a very luspicsaiyr:-— ^ This river is navigable for ships oMv line 200 miles to the Washington Ma Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9 miles DeH the Capital, the river is more than a iti wide, and nearly S miles wide at its com 1 lESAPEAKE Bay.] MARYLAND. [CmtsAPEAKE Bay. . i Baltimore to Norfolk, provided it be made v I in pleasant weather, is a delightful trip, i, a The steamers of the Old (Bay) and New : Lines make trips daily, running through a in twelve hours. I ' KAPEABa: Bay.] MARYLAND. [Balt. & Ohio Railway. e points of chief interest seen in the laAge of the bay, are the embouchure )f lie Patapsco River and the battle- d of North Point, near Baltimore, nc^eferred to in our mention of that ■it}' the Bodkin, three miles distant; the iaii)r of Annapolis, 15 miles still below; man the distance, the dome of the ven- :ra'j Capitol inv/hich " Washington, the ;re and good, set the seal to his sincer- ty, ad finished the edifice of his glory, »}' I luntarily surrendering his conquer- ng word to the civil authority of his ou ry." At the lower end of the bay ■re e famous fortifications of Fort Mon- oe id the Rip Raps, protecting the en- rai! to Hampton Roads and James liv It is a charming route, also, to licliond, turning at or near Norfolk, II to le mouth of the James River, and ulk ing the many devious miles of those diKig and picturesque waters. (See liaj ;r on Virginia, for James River.) P' variety of picturesque landscape ecu y, combined with the scarcely less npi tant considerations and attractions f iimorable historic association and omiience of travel, the Baltimore and • lii( Railroad aflfords a route which no ue laking the Southern tour should lil 1 take. Ii] xtent, commercial importance, and ict< al attraction, this great route is ue I the most important and interesting 1 A erica. It unites the city of Balti- lOi'dvith the waters and valley of the hioit Wheeling, 3*79 miles away, mak- ig (8 of the pleasantest and speediest f tl great highways from the Atlantic ) t Mississippi States. Its whole ourlis through a region of the highest ictrfesque variety and beauty, and it it;i a work of the highest artistic ;lii(|ement in the continual and extra- y display of skill which the singu- iculties of the way have called tbi It claims, too, especial considera- id reflects the greatest honor upon le Site of Maryland and its beautiful leti lolis of Baltimore — as the first rail- ay . America which was built by an icoiprated company, and without the ?Bis ace of the public purse. Tt corner-stone of the road was laid t a ^ y early period in the history of rail- ays July 4, 1828, was the day chosen for the auspicious event, and on the 30th of August, 1830, the first section was open- ed by steam-power, 14 miles, from Balti- more to Ellicott's Mills. The trial of the first engine was made on the 25th of August of that year. On the 1st of June, 1853, the entire route, of nearly 400 miles, was completed, and on the 10th of January a formal opening of the road was made by a through excursion, with great public fetes and rejoicings. It suffered severely during the late war from the destruction of its track, bridges, and rolling-stock. On the 16th of May, 1861, several bridges were destroyed and portions of the track torn up. June 14th, the costly bridge at Harper'^s Ferry was wholly destroyed ; and on the 23d of the same month no less than 46 locomotive engines and upwards of 300 cars, val- ued at nearly half a million dollars, were burned by order of the Confederate Gen- eral, Joseph E. Johnston. With the en- terprise which has always characterized the management of this road, these dam- ages have all been made good, and the road is now in the best order possible. To see it, and the numerous points and objects of interest tributary to it, the traveller should be prepared to spend at least three days between Baltimore .and Wheeling ; a fortnight might be profitably and pleasantly passed in making the en- tire distance and returning. Leaving the city, we cross the Carrolllon Viaduct, a fine bridge of dressed granite, with an arch of 80 feet span, over Crwynii's Falls, after which the road soon reaches the long and deep ex- cavation under the Washington Turnpike, which is carried over the railroad by the Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile further the "deep cut" is encountered, famous for its difficulties in the early history of the road. It is '76 feet in extreme depth, and nearly half a mile in length. Beyond this the road crosses the deep ravine of Robert's Run, and, skirting the ore banks of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now covered by a dense forest of cedar-trees, comes to the long and deep embankment over the valley of Gadsby^s Run, and the heavy cut through Vinegar Hill im- mediately following it. The Relay House, eight miles from the inner station, is next reached, where, as 301 Relay House.] MARYLAND. [Feederick, the name imports, there was a change of horses during the period in which those animals furnished the motive power of tlie road. Here diverges the branch of tlie Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to Wash- ington City, which we shall have occasion to speak of in our journey southward from Baltimore. At this point the open country of sand and clay ends, and the region of rock begins at the entrance to the gorge of the Patapsco River. In entering this defile, you have a fine view of the T/iomas Viaduct (named after the first Presi- dent of the Company), a noble granite structure of eight elliptic arches, each of about 60 chord, spanning the stream at a height of 66 feet above the bed, and of a total length of some YOO feet. The pretty village of Elkridge Landing is in sight, and upon the surrounding heights are seen a number of pleasant country seats. The road now pursues its devious course up the river, passing the Avalon Iron Works, a mile beyond the Relay House, and coming, in a couple of miles further, to the Patterson Viaduct, a fine granite bridge of four arches, two of 55 and two of 20 feet- span. This bridge crosses the river at the Ilchester Mills, sit- uated at a very rugged part of the ravine. The Thistle Cotton Factory appears im- mediately beyond, and soon after Gray's Cotton Factory. Proceeding westward, we reach EUi- cotts Mills, 14- miles from Baltimore, an exceedingly picturesque little town, in a bold, rocky passage of the Patapsco. It contains a newspaper-office, bank, several churches, and a population of 1,500. The Frederick Turnpike road passes through the town here, and is crossed by the railroad upon the Oliver Viaduct, a hand- some stone bridge of three arches, each of 20 feet span. Just beyond this bridge is the Tarpeiari Rock, a bold, msulated mass of granite, betv/een which and the body of the cliff the railroad edges its way. The road soon after comes in sight of the Elysville Factory buildings, where it crosses the river upon a new viaduct of three iron spans, each of 110 feet, and almost immediately upon another of sim- ilar length. Thence it follows the various 302 windings of the stream to the Forh 25 miles from Baltimore. Passin" the Marriottsville limestone quarries near the station of that name, the road crosses the Patapsco by an iron bridge 50 feet i span, and dashes through a sharp spur of the hill by a tunnel 400 feet Ion" . in mica slate rock. After passing one or two rocky hills at Hood's Mill, it leaves the granite region and enters upon • the gentle slopes of the slate hills, among which the river meanders until we reach the foot of Parvus Ridge, which divides the waters of the Patapsco from those of the Potomac. From the summit of the i-idge at the Mount Airy Station, 44 miles from Balti- more, is a noble view westward across the Fredericktown Valley, and as far as tht Catoctin Mountain, some 15 miles dis- tant. The road thence descends the val- ley of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate curves and gentle slopes, with a few ex- ceptions, where it breaks through some ranges of trap rocks, which inteipose themselves among the softer shales, i The Monrovia and Ijamsville Stations are passed at Bush Creek. The slates ter- minate at the Monocacy River, and the limestone of the Fredericktown Valley commences. That river is crossed byai wooden bridge of three spans, 110 feel each, and elevated about 40 feet abovt its bed. The Valley of the Monocacy is equallj remarkable for its beauties of position its rich agricultural resources, and it.'. mineral wealth. At Monocacy, the traveller will pas: the hatlle-ground where, on the 9th ol July, 1864, Gen. Lew. Wallace and tlnl , Federal forces were defeated by a supeii or Confederate force, and compelled t' retreat to Baltimore. Subsequent deve' opments have rendered it probable tlia the gallant stand made at the Monocac Bridge on that day by Gen. Wallace, an the heavy loss that he inflicted on tb: enemy, saved Washington from captui] on the 12th. From Monocacy a branch road extenti three miles north to Frederick, the coui- ty seat of Frederick County and the ce:- tre of one of the most fertile, populou ' and wealthy sections of the State. It the third city of Maryland in populatio INT OF Rocks.] MARYLAND. [Harper's Ferry. alth, and trade. Besides a handsome urt-house, it contains numerousc hurch ifices, Uvo newspaper offices, and sever- large factories.. Some popular Catholic ucatioual establishments, among them John's College, are located here. From the Monocacy to the Point of )cks, the road, having escaped from the rrow, winding valleys to which it has is far been confined, bounds away over beautiful champaign country lying be- een that river and the Catoctin Moun- lus. Ills range of mountains, a continua- of the Blue Ridge, runs west of Fred- :, due south, to the Point of Rocks, fcen this range and the South Moun- which slopes to the Potomac at sville, nestles Maryland's loveliest val- the valley of Catoctin, of which Mid- )wn, 10 miles from Frederick, is the t'e. A conspicuous elevation at the ination of the Catoctin range is vn as the Sugarloaf Mountain. he Point of Rocks is formed by the pi'ofile of the Catoctin Mountain, ist the base of which the Potomac r runs on the Maryland side, the ntain towering up on the opposite ^^ rgiuia) shore forming the other bar- r. ■ of the pass. The railroad turns the p moutory by an abrupt curve, and is p tly cut out of the rocky precipice ou tl right, and partly supported on the in- side of the canal on the left by a le wall of considerable length. Two 3S further another cliff occurs, accom- ied by more excavation and walling, ond, the ground becomes compara- ly smooth, and the railroad, leaving immediate margin of the river to the 1, runs along the base of the gently ing hills, passing the villages of Bcr- nd Knoxville, and reaching the We- on Factoi'ies, in the pass to the South ntain. he Battle of South Mountain really menced at a bridge over Catoctin !k, half a mile west of Middletown, Confederate artillery had been ed to dispute the passage. After t desperate fighting, the crest of the was gained by the Federal troops and enemy driven into the valley on the side of the mountain. Turner^ s Gap, w] re the last desperate stand of the Con- M Ci PC federate right was made, is two miles from the base of the mountain. CrainptorCs Gap, through which passes the road from Jefferson to Roherville, is six miles south. From South Mountain to Harper''s Fer- ry, the road lies along the foot of a pre- cipice for the greater part of the distance of three miles, the last of which is immedi- ately under the rocky chffs of Elk Moun- tain, forming the north side of this noted pass. The Shenandoah River enters the Potomac immediately below the bridge over the latter, and their united currents I'ush rapidly over the broad ledges of rock which stretch across their bed. The length of the bridge is about 900 feet, and at its western end it divides into two, the left-hand branch connecting with the Winchester and Potomac Railroad, which passes directly up the Shenandoah, and the right-hand carrying the main road, by a strong curve in that direction, up the Potomac. The bridge consists of six arches of 130 and one arch of about Y5 feet span over the river, and an arch of about 100 feet span over the canal ; all of which are of timber and iron, and cov- ered in, except the western arch connect- ed with the Winchester and Potomac Railroad, which is entirely of iron, ex- cepting the floor. This viaduct is not so remarkable for its length as for its pecu- liar structure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions, and bifur- cated at the western extremity. Harper''s Ferry and all its fine points of scenery are too well known to need elaborate description here. The pi-ecipi- tous mountains which rise from the water's edge leave little level ground on the river margin, and all of that is occupied by the United States Armory buildings. Hence the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has been obliged to build itself a road in the river bed for upwards of half a mile, along the outer boundary of the Government works, upon a trestle-work, resting 6n the side next the river upon an insulated wall of masonry, and upon the other side support- ed by strong iron columns placed upou the retaining wall of the Armory grounds. The town is delightfully situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenan- doah Rivers, in Jefferson County, Va., 160 miles north of Richmond and 53 miles northwest of Washington. It is cora- 303 Harper's Ferry.] MARYLAND. [ANTiETjar^ pactly though irregularly built around the base of a hill. Besides the Armory, a National Arse- nal was located here. Both buildings, with nearly 15,000 stand of arms, were destroy- ed by fire, April ISth, 1861, on the ap- proach of the Virginia State troops. Southern troops soon occupied the town and adjacent heights, and by May 20th, the number of Confederate soldiers on the spot was estimated at 8,000. On the 14th the point was evacuated. Previous to the war it was a prosperous trading- place, and was known in the early days of Virginia as Shenandoah Falls. It was once "the garden spot of Virginia ;" but war, though it has rendered it more inter- esting to the traveller, has, for the present at least, robbed it of its claim to the former distinction. It was the scene of the exploits which in October, 1859, ren- dered the name of John Brown, of Ossa- wattomie-Kansas notoriety, still more no- torious. Charlestown^ the county seat, where Brown and his followers were tried and executed, is seven miles distant, on the road to Winchester. Visitors to Har- per's Ferry should not f\ul to see the Mary- land Heights, Bolivar Heights, Loudon Heights, and the fortifications which have been erected on them. This was the the- atre of one of Stonewall Jackson's most •famous exploits, when Harper's Ferry was captured by the Confederates in Septem- ber, 1862. After passing the uppermost of the Ar- mory buildings, the road runs along the outer bank of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which brings the water of the river to the woi'ks, and soon crosses this canal by a stone and timber bridge 150 feet span. Thence the road passes up the riv- er on the inner side of the canal, and op- posite the dam at its head, about one and three-quarters of a mile from the mouth of the Shenandoah, and pierces a projecting rock by a tunnel or gallery of 80 feet in ■ length. The view down the river through this perforation is singulary picturesque, pre- senting the pass through the mountain at the confluence of the rivers in one of its most remarkable aspects. A short dis- tance above the tunnel, where the river sweeps gradually round to the eastward m the broad smooth sheet of water crea- 304 ted by the dam, the railroad leaves the Potomac and passes up the ravine oi Elk Branch, which presents itself at this point in a favorable direction. This ravine, at first narrow and serpentine, becomea wider and more direct, until it almost loses itself in the rolling table land which characterizes the " Valley of Virginia." The head of Elk Branch is reached in about nine miles, and thence the line de- scends gradually over an undulating champaign country, to the crossing of the " Opequa " Creek, which it passes by a stone and timber viaduct of 150 fe^ span and 40 feet above the water surfacft Beyond the crossing the road enters the open valley of Tuscarora Creek, which it crosses twice and pursues to the town of Martinsburg, 18 miles from Harper's Ferry. Kcarneysville, 11 miles west of H» per's Ferry, was the scene of many cavat ry fights between Generals Pleasanton, Averill, Custer, and Merritt, on the one side, and Fitz Lee and Stuart on the other. This part of the road, and indeed the whole region around Martinsburg, including that town itself, was occupi^ alternately at least fifteen times during the war, first by the Federal and then by the rebel soldiers, and battles were almost continually taking place in its vicinity. Aniietam, seven miles from Kcarneys- ville, is reached over the turnpike road to Sharpsburg. Tourists will find good c f( i span and 54 feet above the real The view of the Potomac Valley is magnificent as you approach the bridge, and extends as far as the distant moun- tain range of Sideling Hill, 25 miles to the west. The immediate margin of the river is reached at a point opposite the ruins of Fort Frederick, on the Maryland side, an ancient stronghold, erected more than a hundred years ago. From this point, thirty miles from Harper's Ferry, the route follows the Virginia shore of the river upon bottom lands, interrupted only by the rocky bluffs opposite Licking Creek, for ten miles to Hancock. The only considerable stream crossed in this distance is Sleepy Creek, which is compassed by a viaduct of two spans of 110 feet each. Six miles west of Hancock, the trav- eller reaches Sir Jolui's Run, the scene of much warlike preparation and activity during the early days of the rebellion, and the point of departure for the Berke- ley Springs. These famous springs are situated at the eastern base of the Warm Spring Ridge, two miles distant from the railway-station, and are the resort of much travel. The hotel is elegantly fitted up, lighted by gas, and is well kept dur- ing the season. Coaches await the ar- rival of the trains. Leaving Sir John's Run, the track sweeps around the tei'mination of the Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remark- able and insulated eminence called the " Round Top." Thence on to the cross- ing of the Great Cacapon River, nine and a half miles above Hancock, which is crossed by a bridge about 300 feet in length. Within the next mile it passes dam No. 6 of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and soon after it enters the gap of Sideling Hill. The next point of interest reached is the Tunnel at Doe Gully. The approaches to this formidable work are very imposing, as for several miles above and below the tunnel they cause the road to occupy a high level on the slopes of the river hills, and thus afford an extensive view of the grand mountain scenery around. The Paw Paw Ridge Tunnel is next reached, 30 miles from Hancock, and 25 miles below Cumberland. This tunnel is through a soft slate rock, and is curved horizontally with a radius of 750 feet. 805 Patterson's Creek,] MARYLAND. [CuilBEIttAHD, The viaduct over Little Cacapon Creek is 143 feet long. About five and a half miles further on, the south branch of the Potomac is crossed on a bridge 400 feet long. Some two miles above is a fine straight line over the ■uidely-expanded flats oppo site the ancient settlement of Old To-nm, in Maryland. These are the finest bottom lands on the Potomac, and from the upper end of them is obtained the first view of the Knobly Mountain, that re- markable range vrhich lies in a line with the town of Cumberlend, and is so singu- larly diversified by a profile which makes it appear like a succession of artificial mounds. Dari's Motintain towers over it, forming a fine background to the view. Soon after, the route passes the high clifts known by the name of Kelly'' s Rocks, where there has been a very heavy excava- tion. Patierson^s Creek, '70 miles west of Martiusburg, and eight miles east of Cumberland, is nest reached. Imme- diately below this stream is a lofty mural precipice of limestone and sandstone rock, singularly perforated in some of the ledges by openings which look like Gothic loopholes. The valley of this creek is very straight and bordered by beautiful flats. The viaduct over the stream is 150 feet long. Less than two miles above, and six miles from Cumber- land, the north branch of the Potomac is crossed by a viaduct TOO feet long, and rising in a succession of steps — embracing also a crossing of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. This extensive bridge car- ries us out of Virginia, and lands us once more in Maryland, which we left at Harper's Ferry. The route thence to Cumberland is across two bends of the river, between which the stream of Evett's Creek is crossed by a \'iaduct of 100 feet span. CaiMltoerlaild, on the Potomac Eiver, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the line of the Baltimore and Ohio Eailway, is 1*79 miles west of Baltimore. It is in the mountain region of the nar- row strip which forms the western part of the State, and in point of population and trade is its second city. It is the eastern terminus of the Great National Road leading to the Mississippi 306 River. It contains a court-house, countj prison, banks, and other public buildiD"s several handsome church edifices, three newspaper establishments, and a good hotel — the Revere House. The entrance to the town is beautiful, and displays the noble amphitheatre ia which it lies to great advantage, the gap i of Will's Mountain, westward of the town being a justly prominent feature of the view. The brick and stone viaduct over Will's i Creek is entitled to particular notice. It consists of 14 elliptical arches of 50 feet I span and 13 feet rise, and is a well-buill and handsome structure. Visitors for Bedford Springs, Virpiia, i leave the main line at Cumberland. From Cumberland to I'icdmont, 28 miles, the scenery is remarkably pictur- ; esque, perhaps more so than upon any , other section of the road of similar length. ; For the first 22 miles, to the mouth of New Creek, the Knobly ilountain bounds i the valley of the North Branch of tiie Potomac on the left, and Will's and i Dan's Mountains on the right ; thence to Piedmont, the river lies in the gap whiA i it has cut through the latter mountain. CMmncii-Hole Hod; at the termination , of Fort Hill, is a singular crag, through i the base of which the Railroad Company -i have driven a tunnel under t'ne road to I answer the purpose of a bridge for serewl i streams entering the river at that point > The cliS's which occur at intervals during the first 10 miles after leaving Cumberland ; the wide bottom lands extending for the next four miles; the high rocky blufi's along Fort Hill, and the > grand mural precipice opposite to them, . on the Virginia shore, immediately belo» the "Black Oak Bottom," a celebrated farm embracing 500 acres in a single plain, between mountains of great height, are worthy the attention of the tourist The crossing of the Potomac, from the Maryland to the Virginia shore, is 21niilej ; from Cumberland, where the railrosd after passing through a long and deo" excavation, spans the river by a briJ. of timber and iron, on stone abutmem- and a pier. The view at this point, boii i, up and down the river, is very fine. Th* BulFs Head Moch, a mile beyond thb bridge, is a prominent object. iMET-HoLE Rock.] MARYLAND. [Cheat River. Piedmont, 206 miles west of Balti- oi the traveller reaches, ar. the name ip|s, the foot of the Alleghany Moun- inj This is the end of the second divi- )i]if the road, and here are located a it( and extensive machine-shops. The llij3 stands at the mouth of George e most round " of the Alleghanies, magnifi- cent views to the west are to be had. The descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre- sents a-rapid succession of very heavy ex- cavations and embankments. At one point the road, after skirting a beautiful glade,enters a savage-looking pass through a deep forest of hemlocks and laurel thick- ets, the stream dashing over large rocks and washing the side of the road but a few feet below its level These are known as the Falls of Snowy Creek. There are also two tunnels, viz., the McGuire Tun- nel of 500, and the Rodemer Timnel of 400 feet in length, secured by the most durable arches of stone and brick. There is also a stone and iron viaduct over Salt Lick Creek 50 feet span and 50 feet high. The creek passes through a dense forest of fir-trees in its approach to the river. Cheat River is a dark, rapid mountain stream, whose waters are of a curious cof- fee-colored hue, owing, it is said, to its ris- ing in forests of laurel and black spruce on the highest mountain levels of that c ountry. This stream is crossed by a via- duct consisting of two arches, ISO and 130 feet sjDan, of timber and iron, on stone abutments and pier. The ascent to the Cheat River Hill comes next. This is decidedly the most imposing section of the whole line — the difficulties encountered in the four miles west of the crossing of the river being quite appalling. The road, winding up the slope of Laurel Hill and its spurs, with the river on the right hand, first crosses the ravine of Kyer's Run '76 feet deep, by a solid embankment ; then, after bold cut- ting, along a steep, rocky hill-side, it reaches Buckeye Hollovr, the depth of which is 108 feet below the road level, and 400 feet across at that level ; some more side cutting in rock ensues, and the passage of two or three coves in the hill- side, when we come to Tray Run, and cross it 150 feet above its original bed by an iron trestle-work of light and graceful construction, COO feet long at the road level. For several miles on this part of the line, the road runs along the steep moun- tain side, presenting a succession of the most delightful landscapes. In iavorable weather, day trains stop ten miautcs to 307 Grafton.] MARYLAND. [FEITEaMA.\. afford travellers an opportunity to view the viaduct and scenery of this part of the line. After passing these two tremendous clefts in the mountain side, the road winds along a precipitous slope with heavy cutting, filling, and walling, to BucJclwrn Branch, a wide and deep cove on the western flank of the mountain. This is crossed by a solid embankment and retaining wall 90 feet high at its most elevated point.- Some half mile further, after more heavy cuts and fills, the road at length leaves the dechvity of the river, which, where we see it for the last time, lies 500 feet below us, and turns westward through a low gap, which admits it by a moderate cutting, followed soon, however, by a deep and long one through Cassidy's Summit Ridge to the table land of the country bordering Cheat River on the west. Here, 80 miles from Cumberland, we enter the great western coal-field, having passed out of the Cum- berland field 85 miles from that place. Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, and passing by a high embankment over the Bushy Fork of Fringlis Htm, the line soon reaches the Kingivoocl Tunnel, the longest finished tunnel in America. This fine sti'ucture, the work of Benjamin H. Latrobe, is 4,100 feet long, took five years to build, and cost one million dollars. Leaving Kingwood Tunnel, the line for five miles descends along a steep hillside to the fiats of Raccoon Creek, at Newburg. In this distance it lies high above the val- ley, and crosses a branch of it with an embankment 100 feet in elevation. There are two other heavy fills further on. Two miles west of Kingwood Tunnel is 3Iur- ray^s Tun?iel, 250 feet long, a regular and beautiful semicircular arch cut out of a fine solid sandstone rock, overlaying a vein of coal six feet thick, which is seen on the floor of the tunnel. From Newburg, westward, the route pursues the valleys of Raccoon and Three Forks Creeks, which present no features of difficulty to the Grafton Station. Grc(f- ton is nearly equidistant from Cumber- land and Wheeling, being 100 miles west of the first, and about 100 east of the last-named place. It is pleasantly situa- ted on the Tygart's Valley River, which is 308 here crossed by a handsome iron bridge. Here terminates the third or mountain di- vision of the fine. The Northwestern Virginia Railway to Parkersbui-g, 104 miles, intersects the main line at tbis point. It has a good hotel and dining saloon. Fetterman, a promising looking village, two miles further on, is next reached. Here the turnpike to Parkersburg and Marietta crosses the river. The route from Fetterman to Fairmont has but one very striking feature: the Tygarfs Valley IS)i- er, whose margin it follows, is a bean- tiful and winding stream, of gentle cur- rent, except at the Falls, where the river descends, principally by three or four pe^ pendicular pitches, some 70 feet in about a mile. The view in fine weather is charming. A mile and a half above Fair- mont the Tygart's Valley River and the West Fork River unite to form the Mo- nongahela, the first being the larger of the two confluents. A quarter of a mile below their junc- tion, the railroad crosses the Mononga- hela, upon a viaduct 650 feet long and 39 feet above low-water surface. The lofty and massive abutments of this bridge sup- port an iron superstructure of three arches of 200 feet span each, which form the largest iron bridge in America. It was five times destroyed and as often rebuilt during the war. At Fairmont, VT miles from Wheeling, the Monongahela is agiun spanned by a Ijeautiful suspension bridge 1,000 feet in length. The road, a mile and a half below Fair- mont, leaves the valley of the beautiful Monongahela, and ascends the winding and picturesque ravine of Buffalo Creek, a stream some 25 miles in length. The creek is first crossed five miles west of Fairmont, and again at two points a short distance apart, and about nine miles fur- ther west. About nine miles beyond Fairmont *e pass the small hamlet of Farmington, afid seven miles further is the thriving village , of Mannington, at the mouth of Piles Fork of Buffalo. There is a beautiful flat here on both sides of the stream, affording room for a town of some size, and sur- rounded by hills of a most agreeable as- pect. Thence to the head of Piles' Fork, the road traverses at fi.rst a narrow anJ fTLETON Station.] MARYLAND. [Eageesiown, stpentine gorge, with five bridges at dif- fient points, after which it courses with nre gentle curvatures along a wider and nderately winding valley, with meadow IM of one or two hundred yards broad clone or other margin. Numurous tribu- t.yes open out pretty vistas on either bid. This part of the valley, in its sum- nif dress, is singularly beautiful. After riching its head at Glover^s Gap^ 23 nes beyond Fairmont, the road passes t;i ridge by deep cuts, and a tunnel of 39 feet long, of curious shape, forming aj)rt of Moorish arch in its roof. From til! summit (which divides the waters of tli Monongahela from those of the Ohio) tlj line descends by ChurcKs Fork of iJi Creek — a valley of the same general fe;ures with the one just passed on the ei'iern side of the ridge. j'he road now becomes winding, and in tli next four miles we cross the creek eiit times. We also pass Cole's Tunnel, 1 feet, Eaton's Tunnel, 170 feet, and M -ten's Tunnel, 180 feet long. 'he Littleton Station is reached just be- yid, and Board Tree Tunnel is soon at h;j d. This tunnel, 40 miles east of Wheel- passes under a great hill, which was iually crossed by the railroad on a :ag track with seven angles represent- seven Vs. caving Board Tree Tunnel, the line defends along the hill-side of the North F k. of Fish Creek, crossing ravines and 8} 'S by deep fillings and cuttings and railing the level of the flats bordering tn Creek at Bell's Mill ; soon after which it rosses the creek and ascends Hart's R and Four Mile Run to the Welling T nel, 50 miles west of Fairmont, and 2rrom Wheeling. This tunnel is 1,250 fe! long, and pierces the ridge between Fji Creek and Grave Creek. It is tl lugh slate rock, like the Board Tree T' nel, and is substantially arched with bilk and stone. jrora the Welling Tunnel the line pur- sil the valley of Grave Creek, 17 miles to ;s mouth at the Flats of Grave Creek 01 he Ohio River, 11 miles below Wheel- The first five miles of the ravine of Give Creek are of gentle curvature and o\ 1 aspect, like the others already men- tic ed. Afterwards it becomes very sin- uc 3, and the stream requires to be bridg- ed eight times. There are also several deep cuts through sharp ridges in the bends of the creek, and one tunnel 400 feet long at Sheppard's, 19 miles from Wheeling. The approach to the bank of the OJiio River at the village of Moumkville, 12 miles from Wheeling, is very beautiful. The line, emerging from the defile of Grave Creek, passes straight over the "fiats " which border the river, and form- ing a vast rolling plain, in the middle of which looms up the " great Indian mound," 80 feet high and 200 feet broad at its base. The history of this singular mound is still involved in mystery. There is also the separate village of Mizabethtown, half a mile from the river bank, the mound standing between two towns and looking down upon them both. The " flats " embrace an area of some 4,000 acres, about three-fourths of which lies on the Virginia, and the remaining fourth on the Ohio side of the river. The soil is fertile and well cultivated, and the spot possesses great interest, wliether for its agricultural richness, its historical monu- ments of past ages, or the beauty of its shape and position as the site for a large city. About three miles up the river from Moundsville, the "flats" terminate, and the road passes for a mile along rocky narrows washed by the river, after which it runs over wide, rich, and beautiful bot- tom lands, all the way to Wheeling. Mag-ersto^vii, capital of Washing- ton County, with a population of about 4,000,is a prosperous place, 26 miles north- west of Frederick, from which it may be easily reached by stage. It is pleasatitly sit- uated on the west bank of AntietaraCreek, nine miles from the Potomac River. It is the southern terminus of the Cumberland Valley Railroad, which runs through Chambersburg to Harrisburg 74 miles. It is well located in the midst of a fine agricultural district, is well built, and con- tains several substantial edifices. The Wafshinffton is the principal hotel. Of the numerous routes from the At- lantic seaboard, southward, that by rail, via Baltimore and Washington, is the most expeditious, and, all things consid- ered, the most popular. We will suppose the traveller to have made the tour ot 309 1 AXSAPOLIS.] MAEYLAXD. [Bladessbtli the Baliimore and Oliio Eailroad. and to have rerarned to Baltimore, for unless his ultimate destination be New Orleans, or some other point on the Mississippi, he wJH. find it to his advantage, not onlv as regards time and money, but also as re- gards opportunities for sight-seeing, to continue his joumev by the route here indicated. Crossing the Thomas Yiaduct, a splen- did structure, which spans the valley of the Patuxent a short distance south of the Eelay House, mentioned in the com- mencement of our chapter, on the Balti- more and Ohio Eailroad, as connecting the branch ■with the main line, we reach An- nanolis Junction, IS miles from Balti- more. Here a branch road connects with AxLcapolis, '21 miles from Annapo- Hs Junction, and 39 from Baltimore, An- napolis, the capital of Maryland, county seat and port of entry of Anne Arundel County, is a place of considerable interest, from its antiquity and its many historical associations. It is situated on the west side of the River Severn, two and a half miles from Chesapeake Bay. Founded in 1649, it was first called Providence, next Anne Arundel Town, and lastly, when it received a city charter in 1708, Annapolis, in honor of Queen Anne, It became the seat of the State Government in 16S9, on its remo- val from St. Mary's, the old capital The State House is an interesting edi- fice. Here is the seat of St John's Col- lege, founded in 17S4, by an endowment from the State and by the munificence of individual citizens. At Annapolis, also, was located the United States Xaval 310 Academy, established in 1845. It since been removed to Newport, Rl Island. The city contains a market, ;:. tre building, and about 500 priv. dwellings. Many important events occurred in A napolis during the period of the Revo'. tion : and here, at the close of the c<»flu occurred the memorable scene of WadiiL ton's resignation of his commission. . fine picture of this incident, by Edirl White, has been recently placed in th chamber where it occurred. It was a nir portant rendezvous for troops, and dep: for the receipt and shipment of si]pp& during the late rebellion. Xear Ajua olis Junction the remains of a large m tary camp are still seen. Leaving the Junction and puisdi- our way southward past Savage, Lutn and Beltsville Stations, we reach ^ader burff, a pretty little surburban village lyl: on both sides of the road, and on the fa side of the Eastern Branch of the Poi mac, which it enters imme^iiately bdc TTashington City. It is conspicuous the spot where the national anus st tainci a defeat in anempting to am the British in their movement on t capital, August 24, IS 14. It was also famous duelling-ground in the early ds of Congressional wrangling. It abooQ' in gardens, has a fine mineral spring, r is much visited by Washingtonians di ing the summer months. Soon after fci ing Bladensburg, the lofty dome rfi Capitol rises in view, forming the centre an extended landscape, and soon after t train stops at the foot of Capitol H3L WiiiiNGTON City.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washisgton Cut. DISTKICT OF COLUMBIA. 'JtE DLstrict of Columbia is a sui generis tra^ neither State nor Territory, but set ap:J as the seat of the Federal Govern- mej. It was ceded to the United States forliis purpose by Maryland. It occu- pie(in area of 60 square miles. Oiigi- . '1 its measure was one hundred square r.he additional forty coming from lia. This part of the cession, how- c.Cjwas retroceded in 1846. The pres- ent fties of the District are Washington, thejnational capital, and Georgetown, clo!) by. Maryland lies upon aU sides, '■■t the southwest, where it is sepa- from Virginia by the Potomac Lj District of Columbia is governed Jir^ly by the Congress of the United iJtatf, under act of Congress (Feb. 27, .80l and its inhabitants have no repre- ..enftion, and no voice in the Federal Mecpns. It population, which in 1860 was I. has increased to nearly double iinber; an increase attributable TO the demands of the Government the military operations of which iiton was the great centre, than legitimate increase of local trade I lie. 1 incipal water-course is the Poto- Ivcr, which, taking its rise in the ay Mountains, receives the waters al important streams, and after a a- course of nearly 400 miles, d?s- iaus into Chesapeake Bay. Its prin- patributaries are the Shenandoah, the on|acy, the Conococheague, and the aai stia or Eastern branch, which forms 6 stern boundary, and Eock Creek, e ^ stem boundary of the capital. ■WASHIWaTON" CITY, 40 miles from Baltimore, 138 from lili slphia, 226 from New York. H( 5LS. — Metropolitan (Brown's), Wil- -d' Ehhett H(mse, are all spacious it-( ss establishments. Washington City, the political capital of the United States, is situated in the Dis- trict of Columbia, on the north bank of the Potomac River, 122 miles north of Richmond, Virginia. After much discussion and not a little ill feeling amongst members of Congress, and leading men in Pennsylvania, Vir- ginia, and Maryland, the site" for the Fed- eral capital was decided on, and the necessary grants of lands made. The site, if not chosen by Washington himself, seems to have been selected through his agency, and it was he who laid the corner-stone of the Capitol. This was on the 18th of September, 1793, seven years before the seat of government was removed thither from Philadelphia. Under Washington's direction the citv was planned and laid out by Andrew EUicott. The first public communication on record in regard to laying out the city is from the pen of General Washington, and bears date 11th March, 1791. In a subsequent letter— 20th April, 1791— he eaUed it the "Federal City." It was first known as " the City of "Washington," September 9tli of the same year. Its ancient name was Conococheague, derived from a rapid stream of that name which ran near the city, and which, in the Indian tongue, means the Roaring Brook. The citv was incorporated May 3, 1802, and is therefore in its sixty-fifth year. Its limits embrace an area equal to four and a half miles long by two and a half broad. It is idle to speculate upon the action of legislative bodies, and especially of those which convene at the national capital ; but should the original plan of Washington ever be realized in its full growth to the proportions it was designed to reach — as may yet happen — ^it will be in its own right, and without the aid of its official position, one of the great cities of the Union. Indeed, it would be diffi- cult to invent a more magnificent scheme than that of the founder of Washington, or to find a location more eligible for its successful execution. Its easy access 311 Washington City.] DISTEICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington City from the sea gives it every facility for commercial greatness, and its varied to- pography almost compels picturesque effect and beauty. The scene from the lofty dome of the Capitol, or from the high terrace upon which this magnificent edifice stands, is one of unrivalled beauty, and gives the visitor at once and thoroughly a clear idea of the natural advantages of the location, and ot the character, extent, and possibilities of the city. Looking east- ward, for the space of a mile or more, over a level plain, now thickly doited with small dwellings, the eye falls upon the broad and beautiful waters of the Potomac, flowing by Alexandria and the classic groves of Mount Vernon, to the sea. Turning westward, it overlooks the city as it at present exists, upon the great highway of Pennsylvania Avenue, to the edifices of the State and Treasury De- partments and the President's House, the avenue dropping toward its centre, as a hammock might swing between the two elevated points. Around, on other rising grounds, the various public edifices are seen with fine effect ; and, tui^ning again to the left, the view takes in the broad acres of the new Park, over which may be seen the towers of the Smithsonian Institute, and the half-finished shaft of the Washington Monument ; whilst off in the distance, across Rock Creek, lies the quaint but picturesque little city of Georgetown, embosomed in an amphithe- atre of hills. Those who do not care, or who have not time to visit the several public build- ings and objects of interest in and around Washington, should not fail to make the ascent of the dome, and enjoy this view. The visitor will of course tui-n his first attention to the public or Government buildings, which form the especial attrac- tion of the city. The Capitol, not less on account of its strictly national character than its extent and magnificence, is entitled to the first consideration. The corner-stone of this imposing struc- ture, as we have already stated, was laid by Washington himself, September 18, 1793. In August, 1814, it was burned by the British, under Admiral Cockburn, together with the Library of Congress, S12 the President's House, and other publii works. Portraits of Louis the XVltl and Marie Antoinette, King and Queen o! France, which were in the Senate Cham ber of the Capitol at the time of th'i capture, were also burned or stolen. Li 1818 it was entirely repaired, and in 1851 (July 4), President Fillmore laid thi corner-stone of the new buildings, whic'v make the edifice now more than UAtx iti original size. Its whole length is 75 ~ feet, and the area covered, exclusivl of the court-yards, 153,112 square feet,C" rather more than three and a half acreu The surrounding grounds, which are beai tifully cultivated and embellished by foui tains and statuary, embrace from 25 t 30 acres, and are known as the East ani West Grounds. The Senate Chamber an the Hall of Representatives of the Cm gross of the United States, are in lb wings, or, as they are more familiarli known, the "Extension" of the Capitc on either side of the central buildin; The gTand Rolunda contains eight larj pictures, illustrating scenes in America . history, painted for the Government I native artists. Entering the Rotunc immediately under the dome at the ma doorway on the east front, the visitor w find the pictures ranged in the foUowii order : 1. Discovery of the Mississippi by 1 Soto. May, 1541. 2. Baptism of Pocahontas, Jamestow May, 1613. 3. Declaration of Independence. Phi delphia, July 4, 1776. 4. Surrender of General Burgoyne. & atoga, Oct. 17, 1777. 5. Surrender of Lord CornwaUis, Yoi town, Oct. 19, 1781. 6. General Washington resigning his Cft mission. AnnapoUs, Dec. 23, 17! 7. Embarkation of the Pilgrims. Ji 21 (0. S.), 1620. 8. Landing of Columbus. Oct., 1492. The third and three following pictu; of the series, were painted by Colo John Trumbull, for tlie Government, ^ total cost of $32,000. -It was thepict of the Declaration that provoked J< Randolph's ungracious and unjust ci cism. He called it the " shin piece,''an host of would-be connoisseurs have l' denouncing it ever since. It is rei "V^SHiNGTON City.] of the best, if not the best painting, he Rotunda. Over the main entrance fine picture by , representing til murder of the Innocents. A full-length In DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington City. ;rait of the late President Lincoln, oc- ies a similar position over the door- leading to the Senate Chamber, r the western entrance is a half portrait he late Joshua R. Giddings. These ures have little intrinsic merit, and valuable and interesting mainly on ac- kt of the portraits they contain. The ccnoisseur will best decide for himself r relative merits as works of art. ds of Columbus, Sir Walter Raleigh, pt, and La Salle appropriately oc- f alternate panels over the pictures. fie panels over the four entrances to till Rotunda are allo-rilievos in stone, rclesenting Penn's Treaty with the In- ilils, the Landing of the Pilgrims at Pljnouth, the Conflict of Daniel Boone wil the Indians, and the Rescue of Ciiain Johia Smith by Pocahontas. Til floor of the Rotunda, 96 feet in di- anfeer, is of freestone, supported by arjes of brick, resting upon two con- ce^'ic peristyles of Doric columns in the crlt below. The height of the Rotunda is I feet. On the floor of this Rotunda encamped the soldiers of the New Seventh Regiment, when they ar- 1 in Washington in April, 1861. le Dome, which rises over the Ro- a in the centre of the structure, is the : imposing feature of the vast pile, old dome was constructed of brick, e, and wood, and sheathed with cop- and rose to the height of 14.5 feet the ground. This was removed in , and the present structure of iron ;ed, from designs by Walter, the ar- ct of the Extension. The castings losing the Dome, are from the man- ;ory of Janes, Beebe & Co., New York, weight of iron used in its construction nits to 10.000.000 lbs. The interior e Dome measures 96 feet in diameter, 2'20 feet from the floor to the ceiling, rnally, it rises 211 feet above the of the main building, 300 feet above lastern, and .196 feet above the west- ont. The view of the Dome from ;ateway to the Western Grounds, par- ' broken by the intervening forest , is very fine. As before remarked, 14 visitors should not fail to make the ascent of the Dome. A spiral stairway, travers- ing the v/hole superstructure between the outer and inner shells, affords easy access, and gives the visitor a favorable opportu- nity for inspecting, from different points of view, the fresco painting on the canopy overhead. This is the work of Constan- tino Brumidi, whose altar-piece of the Crucifixion, I'ccently placed in the Cathe- dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Phila- delphia, has been so much admired. It covers a space of 6,000 square feet, and was commenced and completed within the space of ten months. The canopy at its base is 54 feet in diameter and 250 feet in circumference; 63 figures are contained in the picture, many of them, in order to produce the effect necessary for life-size when seen from the floor beneath, being colos- sal in their dimensions, and varying from twelve to seventeen feet in height. The centre figure will be readily recognized. It consists of a portrait of Washington, in a sitting posture. To his right is seated the Goddess of Liberty, and on the left a female figure representing Victory and Fame proclaiming Freedom. In a semi- circle is a group of females, representiug the original sister colonies, bearing aloft a banner on which is inscribed the na- tional motto. Surrounding this under- circle, near the base of the design, are six artistic groups, representing War, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the Navy, and Science. The overthrow of treason is strongly typified in the discomfited yet malignant aspect of the figures which shrink from view under the feet of the incensed figure of Liberty and Union. In the group representing the Arts and Sciences the figures of Franklin, Walter, and Fulton occupy prominent places. Mr. J. P. Gulick has immediate charge of this portion of the Dome. From the gallery immediately under- neath the fresco gallery, another spiral stairway leads to the lantern, 17 feet in diameter and 52 feet high. This is sur- mounted by the tholus, or ball, and this in turn by Crawford's statue of Liberty, 16^ feet high, cast in bronze by Clark Mills. Leaving the Rotunda by the southern 313 Washington City.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington Cm doorway, the visitor to the Capitol finds himself in the south wing of the centre building, in the Old Hall of Representa- lives. Most persons who visit the Capi- tol for the first time have their attention so much absorbed in the new extension, and the debates which during the session are carried on there, tliat they overlook the objects of intei'est in the central edi- fice ; yet, as a late writer has justly re- marked, there is no room in the new buildings comparable in beauty to the old Representatives' Hall. This fine chamber really forms one of the most interesting relics of the history of Congress. It is, moreover, replete with historical associa- tions of the deepest interest. The ruined towers and fretted aisles of the Old World, moss-clad and ivy-wreathed, may delight the eye and please the sense of the Euro- pean tourist, dilleitante, and scholar more than these sombre and unromautic walls, bare and whitewashed as they are ; but surely to the American-born citizen they must ever be replete with an interest well- nigh sacred. On the floor of this hall all the great men of the first half century of the republic figured. Here Clay presid- ed, here ¥/ebster spoke, here Adams died ; but the reader's knowledge of Amer- ican history is, doubtless, better than the author's ; iDesides, the limits of a guide- book forbid any attempt at historical picture-painting. The apartment is semi- circular in form, 95 feet in length and 60 feet high to the apex of the ceiling. The columns which support the entablature are 24 in number, and constructed of va- riegated green hrecchia ,or pudding-stone, fi'om the Potomac Valley, and cost over $8,000 apiece. There is nothing like them nor so fine elsewhere in Washington. The ceiling is painted in panel, to imitate that of the Pantheon at Rome. Light is admitted through a cupola in the centre of the ceiling. In the tympanum of the arch stands a statue of Liberty, ex'ecuted in plaster by Causici. A full-length por- trait of Lafayette, presented to Congress on the occasion of his visit in 1825, oc- cupies a place on the western wall ; op- posite is a portrait of Washington by Vanderlyn. The statue by Franzoni, rep- resenting History standing in a v.inged car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious device, forms the dial of a clock, is de- 314 servedly admired. The unsightly galler- ies and other unpleasing (but for tbeir original purpose necessary) features of the hall have been removed, and the main corridor now traverses the hall to the door of the new hall. An ornamental railing has recently been erected, within which will be placed the statuary and paintings which, from time to time, come into possession of the Government. The plaster model of Crawford's statue of Freedom which crowns the dome of the building, and basts of Secretary Stanton and Crawford the sculptor, occupy the left of the entrance to the main corridor. On the right are statues of Washington and Kosciusko, and busts of Presidents Lincoln and Johnson. The Bronze Door, which opens out of the old hall upon the corridor leading to the new hall, is a work of considerable merit, though seen to poor advantage in its present position. It is composed en- tirely of bronze, and weighs 20,000 pounds. It was designed by Randolph Rogers, an -American artist, and modelled by him in Rome in 1858. The cast was executed by F. Yon Miiller, at Munich, in 1861. The work is in alto-rilievo, and commemorates the history of Columbus and the discovery of America. It is 17 feet high, 9 feet wide, and cost $30,000. The door has eight panels, each contain- ing a distinct scene in the life of the great discoverer, the last the death scene, in which Columbus is represented surround- ed by his friends and attendants, with his eyes fixed upon the crucifix, feebly nint- tering his last words, "In manus tuas Domine commendo spiritum meum," is a beautifully executed and impressive pic- ture. The statuettes, sixteen in number, between the panels and on the sides of the door, represent the eminent contempo- raries of Columbus. Advancing southward along the corri- dor, a few steps bring us to the new hall of the House of Representatives. Admis- sion to the floor of the House is only granted before the morning session, or during a recess of the House. The cham- ber itself is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide, and 30 feet high. The lowness of the ceiling, which is supported by trusses from the roof beyond, and panelled with stain- ed glass, gives this otherwise fine apart- rASHlNGTON CiTT.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington City ent a gloomy and cramped appearance, :iicli the gaudy, garish character of the coration serves rather to heighten, le Strangers' Gallery, to' which ready cent is aftbrded by means of two grand irble stairways, extends entirely round e hall, and affords seats for 1,200 per- 3 ; sections of the gallery are railed for the use of the diplomatic corps d the reporters for the press. The ice not specially appropriated to their e is open to visitors. The Speaker's )oin, hnmediately in the rear of his air, is a highly decorated apartment, ■om the southern lobby of the House o stairways descend to the basement, lerc arc located the llefectory and vari- s committee-rooms. The room of the )mmittee on Agriculture vrill repay a 5it ; the walls and ceiling are painted in ;sco by Brumidi. To those who visit e Capitol during the spring or summer pnths, a walk through the basement 11 be appreciated as not the le.\st en- R'able feature of the visit. The corridor, liich is 24i feet wide, contains 30 mouo- liic fluted columns of white marble, •jth foliated capitals, and, from the thick- ijss of the surrounding walls and esclu- an from the sun's rays is a refreshingly Jol place for a promenade. Traversing the basement to the north id, we reach the floor above by a stair- Iv similar to that leading from the Hall gress, usually on Satui-day mornings. The announcements of the daily press furnish the best guide in this particular. Lafayette Square, on the north side of I Pennsylvania Avenue, in the immediate vicinity of the President's Mansion, affords a pleasant ramble. In the centre of the I square is Clark Mills's well-kno'mi eqjc* trian statue of Jackson, erected January, 1853. The ^wse of the rider and the '' poise of the horse may be regarded as miracles of art. The Treasury Department. — The hit- ages of fire, and the constantly increasing business of the Government, has required repeated and extensive additions to and ei- tensions of the public buildings of Wash- • ington. Perhaps the most noteworthy • instance of this rapid growth and ad- < vancement in the material wealth of the I nation is furnished in the present extent of the Ignited States Treasury building. , The act establishing the Treasury De- partment was approved September 2, 1789. The first edifice erected for the purpoM J ASHINGTON CiTY.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington City. I'aUuited States Treasury, -was destroyed w the British ia 1814. The second fas also burned down in the spring of |S33. The east front of the present fuilding, on Fifth Street, with its uu- froken Ionic colonnade of 300 feet, occu- |ies the site of the old Treasury building, fhis colonnade was modelled after that |f the Temple of Minerva at Athens. ft was commenced in the summer of L836. The extension, now nearly com- pleted, was begun in 1855, from designs Dy "Walter, the architect of the Capitol extension. The plan of the extension ianks the old building at each end with fmassive fronts. The old building is com- Iposed of brown sandstone, painted — I the recent extension is of solid granite [from Dix Island, on the coast of Maine. [When completed, and it only lacks the northern front, it will be 520 feet long, 'by 288 feet in width. The interior ! arrangement of the building is admirable. The printing of the public paper moneys, popularly known during and ever since the war as "greenbacks," is carried on in the basement and upper floors of this building. A permit from the Secretary of the Treasury is necessary for admis- sion to this part of the building. The grounds on the south, or Potomac front, are used by the various cricket and base- ball clubs of the city. 17i£ War and Navy Deparimenfs, fac- ing each other on Pennsylvania Avenue and Seventeenth Street, west of the White House, are plain briclc buildings, with nothing but their size and past im- portance to invite attention. They were enlarged in 1864-'65, in order to meet the greatly increased demands of the Gov- ernment growing out of the war. A large stone building on the west side of Seventeenth Street, and nearly opposite the Navy Department, knov.n as Winder's Building, is attached to the War Depart- ment, for clerical purposes. A collection of flags and other trophies captured during the rebellion, will be found in both these Departments, The visitor's card, accompanied by a request, will in- sure permission from the Secretary to see them. In the open space between the War and Navy Departments, those curious in Buch matters will do well to examine a mass of copper-ore from Ontonagon, Lake Superior. It is said to have been origi- nally used as a sacrificial rock by the In- dians, who regarded it with peculiar awe and veneration. It cost the United States $5,640. The Slate Department. — The Depart- ment of State, at present, occupies an un- pretending two-story bi'ick building on the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and Fifteenth Street. This will probably be removed in a short time, to make way for the northern front of the Treasury build- ing, already referred to. The organization of this Department embraces the following bureaus, under the immediate jurisdiction of their respective officers, viz. : the Dip- lomatic Branch, the Consular Branch, the Disbursing Agent, Translator, Ap- pointments and Commissions, Rolls and Archives, Territorial business, Pardons and Passports, and Statistics. The Li- brary contains books, maps, and charts, to the number of 16,000, and is worthy of examination. Tlie Patent- Office., sometimes but errone- ously called the Department of the Interior, is centrally located on F Street, between Seventh and Ninth Streets. It occupies the entire block, having a frontage of 410 feet on F Street, and extending back 2*75 feet to G Street. It was built after designs by ¥/m. P. Elliott, and extended recently by Edward Clark. It is admired, not less for the simplicity of its style than for its extent and the massive grandeur of its proportions. The style of architecture is Doric. There are porticoes on the east, west, and south fronts. The north front is not yet quite complete. The interior of this building is admirably designed and handsomely finished. The basement is occupied by the Bureau of Agriculture and the Indian office. In the second or main floor are located the office of the Secretary of the Interior, the General Land-Office, the Pension and Census Bu- reaus, and the office of the Commissioner of Patents. The principal feature of the whole building is the Model-Room of the Patent-Office, which occupies the entire upper floor of the edifice, forming four large halls or chambers, unequalled for extent and beauty on the continent. The total length of this floor is 1,350 feet, or rather more than a quarter of a mile. 317 Washington Cits:.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Washington City The East Hall is devoted to mechanical models, the north to models of agricul- tural implements, and the West Hall to rejected models. The entire collection numbers over 50,000 articles; an enu- meration of them here might weary the reader, and is therefore omitted. The fresco painting on the roof of the south room is much admired for its freshness and elaborate detail. In this room are cases containing a collection of Revolu- tionary curiosities and relics, among which are the printing-press of Ben Franklin, and the wardrobe, and many of the other personal effects of Washington, woi-n by him when he resigned his com- mission as Commander-in-Chief. N"ear these are cases for the preservation of medals and treaties of the United States with foreign powers. Among the latter are treaties with Louis Philippe (1831), Louis XVI. of France (I'Z'ZS), and Louis XVm. of France (1822). A fine collection of sabres, presented by Bey All Pacha to Captain JPerrie of the United States ship "Concord," at Alexandria, 1832, adorns the upper end of this case. Cases adjoining these to the west, and numbered four and five, contain a collection of Goodyear's patent rubber goods. On the left of the main stairway are four cases containing robes presented by the Government of Japan to United States Consul-General Harris, June 16, 1859. The rich color- ing and fantastic patterns of these vest- ments are much admired. The gifts of the Tycoon to President Lincoln are worthy close inspection. Powers's fine statue of Washington, taken by General Butler from the Louis- iana State House at Baton Rouge, is also in this room, near the head of the stairvvay. The Model-Room throughout forms one of the most interesting sights at the national capital. The whole building, except the north front, which is of brown sandstone, painted to correspond with the rest of the building, is of crystallized marble. The broad platform of the southern portico is reached by a flight of granite steps, 28 in number, and has a double row of fluted Doric columns, each 18 feet in circumference. The inner quadrangle of the structure meas- ures 265 feet by 135 feet, and contains two fountains. The main entrance to the building is from F Street. The General Fost-0(Jice, opposite the south front of the Patent-Office, is an imposing edifice of white marble in the modified Corinthian stjie. The buildin" '• rests on a rustic basement, scarcely dis- cernible since the raising of the street grade. It is 300 feet long, 204 feet deep, and three stories high. It was com- menced in 1839, extended in 1855, under the direction of Mr. Walter, and finished in 1865. MonoHths of Italian marble • form the columns of the extension. The City Post-Oflice occupies a portion of the north or F Street front. The whole upper portion is appropriated to the use of the General or United States Post- Ofiice. Papers left by Ben Franklin, when Postmaster General, are preserved here. The Strtithsonian Institute occupies the area of the New Park, west of the Capitol, and south of Pennsylvania ^Vvenue, known as the Mall. The easiest approach from Pennsylvania Avenue is by the Seventh Street bridge. This noble institution was endowed by James Smithson, Esq., of England, " for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." The edifice, which is constructed of red sandstone, in the Norman or Romanesque stj'le, was commenced in 184:'7, and completed soon after. -Its length is 450 feet, its breadth 140, and it has nine towers, ranging from '75 to 150 feet high. It contains a lecture- room, with sittings for 1,200 auditors; a museum of natural history, 200 feet in length ; a superb laboratory ; a library- room capable of holding 100,000 volumes; and a gallery for pictures and statuary, 120 feet in length. The grounds attached to the Institute, embracing about 50 acres, were laid out by the late A. J. Downing, whose name, so long connected with rural art, and whose melancholy death, will long be remembered. A monument erected to his memory by the American Pomological Society, stands near the Institute. The Washington Monument. — All guide and hand-books to AVashington, and their name is legion, reserve a conspicuous place for the Washington Monument, contrasting its prospective proportions with the great Pyramid of Cheops in 318 sonCixy.] BISTWCI OF COLMBTA. ■C^-i. '<^ jTowevofKaUuesmB^g^S^ ,, I sorts ot f ''^'' -n uia-mficence. ^ h fot^^-e «f **^^* :, umJut as it now : a very s^^^'^^\f ''.,,, ^y position ' ,a, Ux tbe out-o«b. way I ^^ it. The di^si^n ^^.^^j^. "•,OfeetinJeigW'^^^^^rantl.con te base modeled ^^e to cost over 10 e, estnnated alon ^^^^ g, .-uUliondo^^a^^;^ ' Vatcdto pUce ^ iupie" it ^^«°f °^;S^es and relics uJohlevolat.onav>bexo^^^^^ , WHxrgton- ^W. Doric piUai^, ,,oionnade of "^^J'^^.a balustrade, a utable entablatme ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^ ;tate contributes a W .^ ^^ -,^, ov other mateual J ^.^^^ ^^ aa m ^'^ Tb ant ful specimens ^c< blocks are »®''^^ ^re contained o^y of inspection i'lc^ ^^^^, Q,on- ," Ldnear the f^'-J^^'f progress, is n^t, in HB pve^ent^Ute P ^.„^^^^^^ tJ on rising grom^dnea^^^^,^ (..orge- a-eenthcNavyDepaUn .^^ of the riv- tJn, coinmandmga nne ^^.^^ j^^.. Tndthetwocuie^. T^;^^4i,3aidto r rly l^^^own as Camp P, ^ ^^^j^h Gencr- ^beentheprecise.^^^^^ Rvashington encampea ^^^ ^^,j^^ gily designed and u^^^^^ aphical office, il^e t ^^^.^^cal the ^vest ^^'ing, ^^J ^'^^ftl.e building, ^cansit in the sonth v^m^ ^^ tr :,efineinstvmne^rts. \ ^^^ elock by comical works, '^"'i,.^ J^t^e Superintend- £->^^^'«^'^^Zrforvisl;orsdaily,fvo- silt's room. ^P^Q 9 to 3 o'clock. o^theEasternBrancl , ' ThciVavj/ y'*'^';' ° „f a mile southeast about three fourtba oj ^ ^^ ^7 acres of the Capitol, ^^a^ f ^^,,tial brick wall- enclosed by ^^.'^^ besides houses for Within this e'^closmc \^^^ ^-avehouses, the officers, are shops ^^^ two large ship-bons<-_ , ^. g^^„,ent, Sch, like the rest o ^.e c._ ^^^^ ^ is kept in t^*^,.^^f;brick structure, situ- Mayazine is a huge " Required for the ^^^ of the ^^^ .^,, d- Sand Bimi ar punos B^-^^^.^^g^ the incr three-story J^^ \' j^n Institute. Mall east of the Sm^thsJ^^, Greenleaf s Tl^^ ^^■fXe'coS^nceoftheEaseru ^^ _ Point, near the coi .^ ^vor hy o^ Branch with t le -t commenced m > ^^- ^^f'S'SeriXndenceofC.^^ 1814, nn^lei- the snp ^^_i^oom, and the , nelBomiord. .^he Xaoc and Duncan, ; ?a,.nous batteries of ^ra-^f military sci- ■ December fs, 1865. „, u goldiers' The MUttw>-y ^^'•'J f^uiarly known, Home," as it is ^^°;.^^i';ig the " places Should not be oimt^djm.^,-,, ^ ^-orth Beemg ^J j^^^^,-,,ues norU. of pies a b^g^l^ J^^'^^e thither is among the the city. Tbc duv ^^^.^^ ^^ as T)ie raost Pheasant tbe ^^^^^^^ g^^^. The^ site was selected Dy ^^^^^^ ^,,at main building is buu ^^^^.^^^^^ gty^f Eastchester m^^l^^^' \^,g been the custon. of architecture W p-^.^ee's aa of the Presidents, sncu ^^^^ ^^^^^]. :nlnistvatiou,toocaipyon^^^ ^ ev buildings of *«/^^^^,, ^,,,,,ented Lm- resort, and ber^ t^^^^ -^.^t hours of^i coin passed some oi pventful term. . renideni is abo annleeast of th Cap^to,^ .^ ern Branch. "^ ;' ^f the surroundmg commands fine pictures o ^^^.^ ^ country. ,?- ^U g "^^''^^^ ^^"t ^r^^^lX cSSisBeveralmonumen^^ Ground. Z^*;" ^hich are thosc^ of interest, ^mon ^^^^. George Chilton ER.iul^ ^^ y,^ ham Wirt, ^be - are y ^^ ^^ cenotaphs erected to rtm^ ^.^^ ^^„,g bevs of Congress, vho their terms of office ^^ ^^^^ ^^,a, pos- (?|c«woo(7, anothei c •> -^^^^^^Q^i is sessing greater bemt> ^ ^^ ^^^^ ^ , ^ situated about an h^no ^^^ , ^'7rsSiy-tional)aretlieC.^/ ctv (not suicuj' Presc ^oov md tase ion i'liif ra: ae or. ■^-/^'//iniYorthT) q. «»dPifth Streets '^J\^^t^<^en Poukk ^;^^e Visited ,1 !-^«' «t Jifferonfr patronage. Jiie old fp-w^.""" ""ortliy of / ,-7" '"^"^es. Th ' ^'"^^""^"umber^i'-" 's snecVnli. :'^,'^^^. upward of «ni^;/^^ter Jonca- 7"^ar and Trei) r.^, '^^^•^atre on7. '"Perelt' ? "'^" «- "£ of"?^? -^*h erest, from havino- k ^^eiancholv ;^ , ^sassination of p'l^f ° *e scene of th ^.ye'it occurred on p^^^^t Lincoln T ^ ?ie door hy^Chl^'^^y, April U jS"' -osedt!!!i_*^eatre. ThV^g *^e ^« specially Si P^'''"^of50 000 ! i" i'story. f. ''f ^n i^orks on /I '•""'^ calan^itj. ^*' ^^«« ^ouJd be a .?""'''" The /?■,.. ^ national =e lately i^^f^M"*-'*- aJnf K ^ ^" ^Weli tfiA L -^^Partment k^' ^%iiard, on P ^^^ occupied ht It ^* breathed if, i„ : • "^"I'dered pL.- ''^'^"'een the r; , ^^^Dsrlyanii T '^^ 'on chan^ber in tVe , '' " '^^^^'^ S exten ' .'"^^°«4 buff '"'^ «^orge Ln T-'' 'treet, onposifi ,, ^ ^ouse No h^ m^*^^' for British ^•- ^^ »o means IjT"' ^* '^ ° of Messrs. Ui^VV^'^ ^ell-tnown ° '''' *'n^es. AW' ^""^ closed aVVn 18 fS t^ '*--■'■- ' '«S:r'5p*oS.raL °r- '-4: quadrangle o. 265 feet bj Ut, 318 ^^^^^eansayoidthe1,J£;"«\'^^«es. ^'oisy hactnieii, Vicinity.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Georgetown. who infest street comers and hotel-bars. Avoid second and third-class hotels. If you are likely to stay a week, or longer, secure only lodgings, of which there are a great number, and board at a restau- rant. Gautier's, 252 Pennsylvania Avenue, or the Restaurant Beuhler, two blocks fur- ther east, are the best ; French and Ger- man spoken ; wines and cigars excellent. Avoid barber-shops and bath-rooms ; or, if it is warm weather, and total immer- sion is necessary to your comfort, go bathe in the Potomac, for the baths of the Capitol, unlike the pool of Siloam, , never wash clean. VICINITY OF WASHINGTON. Proceeding westward along Pennsylva- nia Avenue, half a mile beyond the War Department, we pass a small, open ground enclosed within an ornamental railing, and known as " The Circle." In the centre of the enclosure is an equesti-ian statue of Washington, by Clark Mills, finished in 1860. Beyond the Circle, on the right, are seen several private residences, con- sjiicuous among which is the headquar- ters of the British Legation, already men- tioned. In crossing the iron bridge, which spans Rock Creek at the foot of the Ave- nue, a fine view is had of the Heights of Georgetown on one side, and the high bank of the Potomac on the opposite or Virginia shore. CJeorgeto^^vii. Hotels. Lang's^ The Union. Distant little more than two miles from Capitol Hill, and divided only by Rock Creek from Washington City, Georgetown may be almost regarded as forming a suburb of the national capital. Since the introduction of street-cars, the tide of travel between the two cities is very great. The city is beautifully loca- ted on a range of hills, which command a view unsurpassed for extent and beauty in the Potomac Valley. It was laid out by act of the colonial government of Maryland June 8, 1751, and was incor- p,"-'- ■ her 25, 1789. It is a port carries on a considerable ii^ciauiiif, .....ue; a line of steamships plies Ibetween New York and this port. The [pity presents many points of attraction. The Heights should first be visited, as from them the relative distance and di- rection of other points and localities can be readily obtained. The Aqueduct^ by which the waters of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal are carried over the Potomac, will repay inspection. It is 1,446 feet long and 36 feet high. The conduit has a nine-foot vent, and discharges 68,000,- 000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The piers, nine in number, are built of granite, embedded 17 feet in the river bottom. It was constructed under the direction of Major Turnbull, U. S. Topographical En- gineers, and cost $2,000,000. The canal extends 184 miles to Cumberland, Mary- land, and cost $12,000,000. Georgetown College, at the west end of the city, is an old institution of learning. The first edifice was commenced in 1788, and completed in 1795. In 1799 it became " The College of Georgetown." In May, 1815, it was incorporated a university. The Medical Department was added in 1851. The buildings are spacious, and contain a well-selected library of 25,000 volumes, an observatory, and a Museum of Natural History. It is under the di- rection of the Jesuits. In the rear of the college is a pretty rural serpentine walk, commanding a still prettier view. The Convent of the Fm7afe'oji, founded in 1799, is on Fayette Street. The building appropriated for the Ladies' Academy is of brick, about 250 feet in length ; the in- terior is a combination of neatness and elegance. Visitors are admitted between the hours of 11 and 2 o'clock. The resi- dence of the archbishop of the diocese is near by. On the heights north of the convent is an Asi/lum for Destitute Color- ed Women and Children. Oak Hill Ceme- tery, on the northeastern declivity of the heights, is a romantic burying-ground. It was laid out in 1849, by its donor, Mr. Corcoran, whose vault of white marble occupies a prominent place in the ceme- tery. The granite monument to M. Bo- disco, the late Russian minister, is wor- thy of notice ; it was sent from St. Pe- tersburg by the Russian Government. An elegant Gothic chapel with stained- glass windows, planned by Renwick, and now overgrown with ivy, is an attractive feature of this really pretty spot. Georgetown contains several churches, a flourishing academy, and other educa- 321 Vicinity.] DISTEICT OF COLUMBIA. [Arungtoh. tional institutions. Population about 9,000. The Potomac in the vicinity of George- town abounds in fish ; shad and herring are taken in great abundance, large quan- tities being exported monthly through the season. A dish of baked shad con- stitutes one of the dinner-table attrac- tions of the District. Arlinglon House, once the mansion of George Washington Parke Custis, the last but one survivor of the Washington fam- ily, occupies a commanding position on the Virginia side of the river, nearly oppo- site Georgetown. It stands more than 200 feet above the river, and the view from the portico of the building ia among the best this part of the Potomac affords. The collection of pictures and other rel- ics, among them the Mount Vernon plate and the bed and bedstead of Washing- ton, have passed into other hands. Be- fore the war, Arlington formed part of the estate of Robert E. Lee, afterwards known as the Commander-in-chief of the Confederate army. The ravages of war have laid waste this once lovely spot. The beautiful heights, upon which the house and grounds stood, were occupied by Union troops May 2, 1861 ; they are now occupied by the Frecdrnenh Vil- lage. Fort Albany is near by. A recent visit to Arlington Heights and the set- tlement surrounding them is thus de- scribed : " Being provided with passports, a good carriage, willing horses, and a shrewd dri- ver, we started ga3dy through the wide streets of Washington, and were soon on that longest of Long Bridges, that spans the Potomac. As we were obliged to walk the horses, the drive over being a mile, gives us ample time to preiaare our minds for entering on that sacred soil of the F. F. V.'s, that the irreverent Yan- kees are said to describe as ' Poor, old, worn-out, God-forsaken Virginia.' It is the first glimpse a Northerner can catch of the iron hoof of war, and as you roll over the dusty, broken road, it rises around you on every side and forms a desolate picture. Broken fences, clayey fields, felled trees, and deserted houses, the charred remains of camps, fires light- ed in the midst of pleasure-grounds, and fed with the broken lattice- work of sum- 322 mer-houses, i-usty canteens, and all tlie discarded remains of camp life — these are the features of a landscape that was oiicc a summer resort for gayety and mirth — the Sans Souci gardens of Washington. The road to Arlington is a climb nearly all the way, and for the first half mile we rode in the rear of an army of several thousand, and consequently in a cloud of dust that was not relieved by bumping in and out of the ruts made by heavy ambulances. At last our way turned anil became smooth and less desolate; the trees were green, so were the fields be- neath them, and every thing, though neg- lected, was uninjured. Then we saw what appeared to me two very good imi- tations of the castle of Giant Despair. They were the houses of two declared en- emies of the Government who had never been convicted of any active treason, but were considered sufficiently worthy of at- tention to be interdicted from leaving their own grounds on any pretence whatever And here they both abide within a few furlongs of each other, yet apart ; with liberty to range at will in the narrow cir- cuit of their desolate gardens, yet in re- ality close prisoners and under strict watch. They had not taken kindly to their captivity, if the utterly ruinous aspect of their surroundings could speak for them, and the sluggish gloom that rested on every thing must have been a reflection to their own hearts. " About three-quarters of a mile before you reach Arlington House, you come upon the village (Freedmen's), which is \ built terrace-fashion, circling the brow of the heights. It contained at that time ' about 1,800 inhabitants, and consisted '■ of two and a half storied white frame houses, built in small rows along aven- ues, designated by the names of Garrison, Lovejoy, Fremont, etc. Leaving our con- veyance, we climbed up the hilly path to the superintendent's house, which is. comfortably large an9 airy, but bare and i unimproved like all the rest," The number of freedmen here congre- gated is about 2,000, and a chapel has ' been erected for religious service. Near i the i-iver, at the foot of an umbrageous i oak, is the famous Arlington Spring. The Little Falls of the Potomac, three miles above Georgetown, are a succession AlEXANDKIA.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Mount Vj^rnon. of- romantic cascades at the head of tide- water. The scenery is wild and pic- turesque, and the waters abound in fish ; striped bass is the most common. These waters were a favorite angling-haunt of Daniel Webster, and no spot within easy reach of the visitor to the capital pre- sents more varied attractions. Great Falls, 12 miles beyond, present a scene of unusual, picturesque, and grand effect. The road thither atfords a pleasant car- riage drive. Alexantlria, Va., is situated up- on the south bank of the Potomac, seven miles below the capital. It was once within the District of Columbia, but was retroceded to Virginia in 1846, with all the territory of that State vt^hich had be- fore been a portion of the national ground. Its foundation dates from 1Y4S. General Braddock's disastrous expedition to the West was fitted out here. The town is intimately connected with the life and name of Washington. In Christ Church, the pew in which he sat is an object of much interest. Many mementoes of him are carefully preserved. The Musuem, Court House, Odd-Fellows' Hall, and Theo- logical Seminary, are among the prominent buildings. The town, hke all others in Virginia, suffered much during the war from the hands of soldiery,^The city was occupied by Ellsworth's Zouave regiment and a Michigan regiment on the morning of the 24th May, 1861, and continued in the possession of the Federal troops. In the entrance to the Marshall House Colo- nel Ellsworth was shot by Jackson, the proprietor of the house, for tearing down the secession flag. Jackson was in turn shot by F. E. Brownell, one of Ellsworth's command. Of the merchants accustomed to do business in Alexandria, but few re- mained through the war. It had a popu- lation of 12,500 in 1860, contams one hotel (Newton's ), and is connected with Washington by steamboat, railway, and turnpike. The daily steamer down the [Potomac to Aquia Creek and Fortress iMonroe, calls here. It also has rail- jway communication with Lecsburg, 38 miles ; also with Gordonsville, Char- lottesville, and Lynchburg, by the Orange and Alexandria Railway. The Long Bridge, which spans the Potomac at Washington, played an important part during the late rebellion; upwards of half a million troops are estimated to have crossed upon it. 3Iount Vernon, sacred as the home and tomb of Washington, is upon the west bank of the Potomac, 15 miles be- low the capital, and eight miles from Alexandria. Mount Vernon, then known as the Hunting Creek estate, was be- queathed by Augustine Washington, who died in 1743, to Lawrence Washington, who received a captain's commission in one of the four regiments raised in the colonies, to aid the mother country in her struggle against France and Spain. It was named after Admiral Vernon, un- der whom Lawrence Washington had served, and for whom he cherished a strong affection. The central part of the mansion, which is of wood, was erected by Lawrence, and the wings by George Washington. It contains- many valu- able historical relics, among which are the key of the Bastile, presented by La- fayette, portions of the military and per- sonal furniture of Washington, the pitch- er, portrait, etc. The tomb of Washington, which is now fast going to decay, occupies a more pic- turesque situation than the present one, being upon an elevation in full view of the river. The new tomb, into which the remains were removed in 1837, and sub- sequently placed within a marble sarcoph- agus, stands in a more retired situation, a short distance from the house. It con- sists of a plain but solid structure of brick, with an iron gate at its entrance. Above the arch of this vault are inscribed the following lines : "Within this enclosure rest tlie-remains of Geneeal Geobge Washington." The Mount Vernon flomain, which has remained since the death of Washington in the possession of his descendents, was purchased a few years ago for the sum of $200,000, raised by subscription, un- der the auspices of a society of ladies known as the " Ladies' Mount Vernon Union Association." It is therefore, and will continue to be, the property of the nation. In this noble movement the late Hon. Edward Everett took a distinguish- ed and active part. To reach Mount Vernon from Wash- 323 Vicinity.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. [Defences. ington, take the ferry to Alexandria, and thence by road. Six miles south of Alex- andria, old Fori Washington, known dur- ing the war of 1812 as Fort Warburton, is passed. The important position of Washington dui-ing the late war led to careful prep- arations for its defence, and the modern fortifications of the place will long remain among its main objects of interest. They are 56 in number, embracing a circuit of nearly 40 miles around the city and Alex- andria. These works are built of earth, and are bomb-proof Of the whole num- ber, Fort Stevens, at the northern end of 324 Seventh Street, was the only one attack- ed during the war. The events of the memorable " four days' " siege of the city are still fresh in the recollection of its citizens. The Army Hospitals of Washington and vicinity numbered 23 during the war, with accommodation for 12,000 pa- tients. Many of these have been remov- ed. Among those remaining, worthy a visit, are Armory Square Hospital, east of the Smithsonian grounds ; Emory and Lincoln Hospitals, and Judiciary Square Hospital, in the rear of the City Hall. Virginia.] VIRGINU. [Virginia. YIEGINIA Virginia, the oldest of the original thirteen States of the North American Confederacy, and, on that account, often referred to as the " Old Dominion," is bounded on the north by Ohio, Pennsyl- vania, and Maryland ; east, by Maryland and the Atlantic Ocean ; south, by North Carolina and Tennessee ; and west, by Kentucky and Ohio. Jamestown, on the James River, is the oldest permanent set- tlement made by the English on this con- tinent, the redoubtable Captain John Smith and his followers having landed and located there in 1607. In its eai'ly career it encountered great difficulties in the shape of famine, disease, and the hos- tilities of the natives. Bacon's rebellion, the most serious of these disturbances, broke out in 1676. In IGYY Virginia obtained a new charter, depriving her of some of her former privileges, as a pun- ishment for this rebellion. In 1*752 Washington, then a young man, was sent by Governor Dinwiddle as an envoy to the French commander at Fort Du Quesne (Pittsburg), and two years after defeated the French at the Great Meadows, but was obliged finally to capitulate. Virginia took an active part in the events leading to and in the conduct of the Ilevolution- ary war, as she also did in the rebellion of 1861-'65. Among the proudest boasts of the State is the extraordinary number of great men which she has given to the nation. Dui-- ing half the lifetime of the Republic, its highest office has been conferred upon her sons. Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, Tyler, and Harrison, all Presi- jdents, were born in Virginia. Not only ihas she been the mother of Presidents, ibut she has raised leaders for our armies fand navies, lawgivers for our Senates, judges for our tribunals, apostles for our pulpits, poets for our closets, and paint- ers and sculptors for our highest and most enduring delight. Scanning the map of middle Virginia, the eye is continually ar- rested by hallowed shrines — the birth- places, the homes, and the graves of those whom the world has most delighted to honor. Here we pause within the classic groves of Monticello, and look abroad upon the scenes amidst which Jefferson so profoundly studied and taught the world. There, in the little village of Hanover, the burning words of Patrick Henry first awakened the glowing fire of liberty in the bosoms of his countrymen ; and here, too, the great Clay was nurtured in that lofty spirit of patriotism, from which sprang his high and devoted public services. Not far off we may again bend, reverently, over the ashes of Madison and Monroe, of Lee, and Wirt, and Marshall. Prominent among the events of the Rev- olution was the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, October, 1781, which vir- tually terminated the war. Washington died December 14, 1799. Alexandria capitulated to the British, August 27, 1814. Nat Turner's negro insurrection occurred in 1831. A State Constitution was formed in 1776, which was remod- elled in 1830, and again in 1851. The events of the last five years have added materially to the historical and scenical attractions of Virginia. The " ordinance of secession " was passed April 17, 1861, and the accession of Virginia (Eastern) to the Southern Con- federacy announced by Governor Letcher on the 25th of the same month. In Western Virginia, on the 23d of April, at a public meeting held at Clarksburg, Harrison County, delegates were appoint- ed to a convention to be held at Wheel- ing, May 13th, to determine what course 325 Virginia.] VIRGINIA. [ViHGINIA. should be pursued. This movement re- sulted in the separation of Western from Eastern Virginia. Great activity was soon observed in Eastern and Southwest- ern Virginia, in the organization and equipment of troops, and by the 5th of June it was estimated that there were fifty thousand Confederate troops in ac- tive service in the State. All between the ages of eighteen and forty-five were re- quired to enlist, and not such only as a draft would call into the field. From that time to the capture of llichmond and the virtual close of the rebeUion, Virginia was the principal theatre of war, and is fairly entitled, in addition to her former appellation of " the Old Dominion," to be known as the Batile-Field of the Union. For the information especially of those desirous of visiting the battle-fields throughout the State, we give, at the close of the chapter, a list of the battles and principal skirmishes, the points at which they were fought, and the best routes by which to reach them. In regard to internal improvements and the means of communication, Virginia, though behind many of her younger and less wealthy sister States, is yet far in ad- vance of States lying to the south and west of her. Her noble rivers and main lines of railway afford easy access to almost every section of her wide domain. According to the census of 1860, the railroad system of the State embraced l,'77l miles of track, the construction and equipment of which cost sixty-five millions of dollars. Geographically, Virginia occupies a central position on the seaboard of the Union. It lies between 36° SO' and 40° 88' north latitude, and between 75° 10' and 83° 30' west longitude, and is very irregular in its outline. It is about 425 miles in its greatest length from east to west, and 210 in breadth, embracing an area of about 61,352 square miles, or 39,- 265,280 acres, of which only 11,437,821 were improved in 1860. No State in the Union presents a greater variety of surface than Virginia, from the mountain ranges and rugged hills of the interior to the rich alluvions of the rivers and the sandy flats of the seacoast. It is usually divided into four sections. 1. The Tidewater District, containing thirty- seven counties, bordering on the Atlantic 32G and Chesapeake Bay, is generally level. 2. West of this is a more elevated re- gion, sometimes called the Piedmont Dis- trict, containing thirty-two counties. 3. The Valley District, containing nineteen counties, is entered by ascending the Blue Ridge, which passes from Maryland into Virginia, near Harper's Ferry. 4. The Trans-Alleghany District, containing for- ty-nine counties, lying west of the moun- tains. This portion is for the most part hilly and broken, or occupied with outly- ing spurs. With such a topography, Virginia, as will readily be believed, abounds in grand and picturesque scenery, and in objects of interest to tourists. It is especially rich in mountain scenery, though the mountains do not attain so great an ele- vation as in New Hampshire and North Carohna. White Top, in Grayson Coun- ty, the highest land in the State, is 6,000 feet above the sea level. Next to White Top, the highest known summits are the peaks of Otter, between Bedford and Botetourt Counties, which are 4,300 feet above the level of the sea. The moun- tains extend across the middle of the State in a southwest and northeast direction, and occupy a belt of from 80 to 100 miles in width. Next to her mountain scenery, the springs of the Old Dominion present the greatest attractions to travellers. Some of the most valuable medici- nal waters on the continent are found within her borders. Among the most cel- ebrated are the Berkeley Springs, in Mor- gan County [see Baltimore and Ohio Rail- way, in our chapter on Maryland); White Sulphur in Fauquier, White Sul- phur and Blue Sulphur in Greenbrier, the Alum and Hot Springs in Bath, the Salt and Red Sulphur in Monroe, and the White Sulphur in Grayson County. The most celebrated of these, the White Sul- phur Spring in Greenbrier County, 13 ' strongly impregnated with carbonic and nitrogen gases, with sulphates of lime and magnesia, and carbonate of lime. The far-famed passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry is al- ready familiar to most travellers, as is \ also the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge ' County ; Weyer's (Weir's) Cave, Madison's Cave, and the Chimneys in Augusta Coun- Virginia.] VIRGINIA. [Virginia. ty, the Buffalo Knob in Floyd County, the Natural Tunnel in Scott County, and the Hawk's Nest, on New River, in Fay- ette County, are all noteworthy objects much frequented by tourists. The political . and . natural divisions of the State have been briefly stated. Its internal organization embraces 148 counties, 46 of which are now included in West Virginia. Richmond is the capital, and largest city in the State. Petersburg,. Norfolk, Wheeling, and Alexandria, take rank next the capital in size and importance. The white pop- ulation of Virginia is mainly of British origin, and until a recent period was but slightly affected by admixture from other sources. The native Virginians have al- ways prided themselves on the purity of their descent, and " one of the F. F. V.s," or first families of Virginia, has passed into a proverb. The population in 1860 amounted to 1,596,318, of which number nearly one-third were slaves. The popu- lation has decreased during the war, and does not now probably number more than one million and a half white and black. Political and social differences and distinc- tions are fast passing away, and a healthy immigration is setting in from the North- ern States and from Europe. As the Southern -bound traveller is now about to enter a section of the Union the means of communication throughout which have been seriously broken and otherwise injured by the war, the author of the Hand-book has thought it advisable to give only such routes as have either not been interfered with or have been so far restored as to invite travel. For in- formation in regard to the condition and facilities of roads not mentioned here, the traveller is referred to "Appletons' itfonthly Guide," and the proprietors of the several leading hotels represented in these ^ages, whose means of obtaining the latest intelligence in regard to locd ravel are unquestionably the best. Railways. — The Orange and Alex- andria Hailwa'/, from Alexandria to Lynchburg, 170 miles, via Springfield, 9 niles ; Burke's, 14; Fairfax, 17; Union ilills, 23 ; Manassas, 27 (junction of Ma- iiassas Gap Road) ; Bristoe, 31 ; Weavers- /ille, 38 ; Warreutou Junction, 41 (Branch liue miles to Warrenton); Culpepper C. H., 62 ; Orange C. H., 79 ; Gordons- ville, 88; Lynchburg, 170. The i¥a- nassas Gap Hailway, from Manassas (Orange and Alexandria Road), 85 miles to Mt. Jackson. The Alexandria, Loudon, and Hampshire Railway, from Alexandria, through Arlington, Fall's Church, Guildford, 38 miles to Lees- burg. The Richmond, Fredericksburg, and Potomac Railway, from Aquia Creek, on the Potomac, to Fredericksburg, 15 miles ; to Richmond, 75. Between Aquia Creek and Washington City communica- tion is by steamboat. The Seaboard and Roanoke Raihoai/, from Portsmouth and Norfolk, 80 miles to Weldon, N. C. Winchester and Potomac River Railway, 32 miles from Winchester to Harper's Ferry (Baltimore and Ohio Railroad). The Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 397 miles from Baltimore to Wheeling, is partly in Maryland and partly in Virginia. (See Maryland for further account of this road.) The N'orthwestern Railway, from Grafton, on the line of the Baltimore and Ohio Road, 104 miles to Parkersburg, on the Ohio River. The Virginia Central Railway, from Richmond westward 95 miles, to Jackson's River, through Han- over, Louisa, Gordonsville, Charlottes- ville, Staunton, Millboro, and other places. Route to the Virginia Springs, Natural Bridge, Weir's Cave, etc. The Richmond and Danville Railway, from Richmond, 141 miles southwest to Danville, on the North Carolina boundary. Richmond and Petersburg Railway, from Richmond, 21 miles to Petersburg. The Petersburg and Lynchburg (Souihside) Railway, from Pe- tersburg, 123 miles to Lynchburg. From Petersburg it is extended 10 miles to City Point, on James River. It intersects the Richmond and Danville Road about mid- way, at Burkesville. The Virginia and Tennessee Railtvay, from Lynchburg, 204 miles to Bristol, thence to Knoxville, Ten- nessee. The Roanoke Valley Railway, 22 miles from Clarksville to Ridgeway, on the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, N. C. Parties desirous of visiting Fairfax Couvt- House, Manassas, and other points of in- terest in the neighborhood of Washingt «! and Alexandria, should take the Orange and Alexandria Railway, while those wish- ing to go direct to Richmond first, and select their routes from that point, can 327 RiCUMOND.] VIRGINIA. [Richmond. take boat either at Washington or Alex- andria to Aquia Creek, and thence by rail via Fredericksburg, or continuing on to Fortress Monroe or Norfolk reach Rich- mond by steamboat up the James River. The former of these routes is the quicker and least expensive, the latter the most pleasant and most interesting. mCHMOND, 180 miles by rail from Washington, 356 from New York. Hotels. — The Ballard House. This (vell-known and deservedly popular house lias been thoroughly refurnished, and has Bvery convenience for guests. The £Jx- 'jJumffe, immediately facing this, has large private parlors, and spacious ball- room. A well-shaded court-yard, a jet Teau, and observatory commanding an 3xtended view of the city and vicinity, ire among the attractions of this hotel. Cuisine excellent. The Spottsivood and St. Charles are also good houses. Richmond, the capital of the "Old Dominion," as Virginia is familiarly called, and the seat of government during the Confederate rule in the State, is beau- tifully situated on the left or northeast bank of the James River, at what are called the Lower Falls. The city was founded by act of Assembly in May, 1'742, md became the State capital in ,1'7'79. Richmond, as first seen on approaching by the river, has the imposing aspect of 1 large and populous capital. It owes this in a great degree to the elevated po- sition of its Capitol, which stands on Shockhoe Hill, and afar off has a hand- some and classical appearance ; when, bowever, 3'ou approach within criticising distance, it loses some of that enchant- ment which distance ever lends the view. The situation of the city and the scenery of the environs are much admired. It is L'egularly laid out in rectangular blocks. Mways a city of considerable political and commercial importance, it gained still greater prominence as the capital of the Southern Confederacy. Upon the sur- render of the city to the Federal forces, April 2, 1865, fire was set to the tobacco and other warehouses of the city, under 328 orders, it is affirmed, from General Early, then commanding the Confederate troops quartered in Richmond, and soon a great portion of the business section of the city was a mass of blackened ruins. The upper part of Main Street, the principal avenue of fashion and business, from the Spottswood House down for several blocks, was entirely demolished, and only por- tions of it have yet been rebuilt. Up- wards of 1,000 buildings, and property es- timated at eight millions of dollars, were destroyed. The Capitol^ as before stated, stands on the brow of Shockoe Hill, overlooking what was once the city proper, but now the burnt district. From its size and elevated location, it is by far the most conspicuous object in the city. It is a Grseco-composite building, adorned with a portico of Ionic columns. There are windows on all sides, and doors on the two longer sides, which are reached by high and unsightly double flights of steps placed sidewise, nndet which are other doors leading to the basement. The view from the portico is extensive and beauti- ful, taking in the James River, with its windings and numerous islands. It stands in the centre of a public square of about eight acres. Entering by one of the up- per doors, an entry leads to a square hall in the centre of the building, surmounted by a dome which transmits light from above. The hall is about forty feet square, and about twenty-five above the floor. lu one of the niches in the wall is a marble bust of Lafayette. In the centre of the square hall above described thei'e is a marble statue of George Washington, on which is the following inscription : " Faii par Houdon, Citoyen Frangais, lYSS." The statue is mounted on a rectangular pedestal, four and a half feet high, on one of the larger ^ides of which is the fol- lowing honest and affectionate inscrip- tion: " The General Assembly of the Com- monwealth of Virginia have caused this statue to be erected, as a monument of affection and gratitude to GEORGE WASHINGTON, who, uniting to the endowments of the Hero the virtues of the Patriot, and ex- erting both in estabUshing the Liberties of his Country, has rendered his name dear to his Fellow-Citizens, and given the I IRichmonh.] VIRGINIA. [Richmond. ijWorld an immortal example of true Glory. iDone in the year of 1 CHRIST One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eigh- ;v-Eight, and in the year of the Common- vealth the Twelfth." r The simplicity, dignity, and truth of hat inscription are worthy of the great niginal commemorated, and of the young tnd chivalric State whose ready gratitude early erected this lasting monument, nd overflowed in language so beautiful nd appropriate. The statue is decently dad in the uniform worn by an American reneral during the Revolution, and not alf covered by the semi-barbarous and aiian toga, with throat uncovered and aked arm, as if prepared for the barber ad the bleeder, which is the case with lie statue of Washington, by Greenough. t the National Capitol. It is of the size f life, and stands resting on the right lilt, having the left somewhat advanced, ith the knee bent. The left hand rests 1 a bundle of fasces, on which hang a ilitary cloak and a small sword, and jainst which leans a plough. The atti- de is natural and easy, and the likeness the great original is strong. A fine ntue of Henry Clay stands near the ■stern corner of the square. Besides e Capitol, the most noteworthy edifices e the City Hall, the Penitentiary, and e Custom House. The City Ball is an I'gaut structure, at the northwest angle 1 t he Capitol Square. The Penitentiary, lar the river, in the western part of the (v, is a spacious edifice,' with a facade ( near 300 feet long. The Custom House j a substantial structure, fronting on ] liu Street. It has been recently com- I'ted, and cost upwards of half a million lollars. The lower story is used for te purposes of the City Post-Office. ove this are the headquarters of the Kitary commandant ,of the district. hlimond College was founded by the rptists, in 1832. St. Vincenfs College ■under the direction of the Catholics. b medical department of Hampden and •dney CoZ/(?^f, established in 1838, occu- il3 an attractive building, of Egyptian hitecture. imong the churches of Richmond, r thirty in number, are some of ai'chi- tural skill worth observing. The 3fon- umental Church (Episcopal) stands where once stood the Theatre, so disastrously burned in 1811, at the sad sacrifice of the life of the Governor of the State, and more than sixty others of the ill- fated audience in the building at the time. St. Johi's, on Church Hill, corner Broad and Twenty-fourth Streets, is interesting from its historical associations. Holywood Cemetery is a pretty, re- tired spot, adorned with some handsome monuments. It is at the north end of Main Street. The Lihby Prison and Castle Thunder are always pointed out to strangers. The former and better known of the two takes its name from its owner, a Mr. Libby, who long occupied it as a tobacco warehouse. During the war it was used as a place of confinement for Union prisoners. It has little, either in its past history, present condition, or fu- ture prospects, to invite a closer acquaint- ance than this brief description affords. Richmond is the great depot for the to- bacco product of Virginia, and the ware- houses where this famous " weed " was stored, the number of which exceeded forty, were before the war among the " sights " of the city. The wheat grown in the neighborhood of Richmond, and in- deed throughout "V irginia, has long been esteemed for its excellence. The flouring mills are numerous, and many of them ex- tensive. The "City," "Gallego," and " Haxall" are the largest concerns of this kind. The city also contains a Court- House, a Jail, an Armory, a Theatre, two Market-Houses, an Orphan Asylum, and a Masonic Hall. Three bridges across the river connect the city with Manchester and Spring Hill. The Rapids, or FaUs of James River, which extend six miles above the city, and have a descent of 80 feet, afford valuable water power. The navigation of the river is opened above the city by the assistance of a canal which overcomes the rapids. The city is sup- plied with water from the I'iver by means of forcing-pumps, which furnish three res- ervoirs, of 1,000,000 of gallons each. The James River and Kanawha Canal, commenced in 1834, extends westward upwards of 200 miles. Richmond, like Washington, though in a much greater degree, has been the centre of absorbing interest during the war, and no one ought 329 Norfolk.] VIRGINIA. [Vicinity' to leave it without visiting the line of for- tifications whicli constituted tlie defences of the city, and which were so long deemed impregnable. MOUTE I. Worfblli:, 300 miles from New York by sea, 190 from Washington, 180 from Baltimore, 140 from Richmond. From Baltimore daily, by steamboat down Ches- apeake Bay. From Richmond the route is by steamer down James River. Sev- eral fine boats ply between the two cities, and in favorable weather the trip is a most delightful and interesting one. Hotels. — Atlantic and National, both on Main Street, are well-ordered houses. The former has reading and billiard rooms attached. Norfolk is pleasantly situated upon the Elizabeth River, eight miles from Hamp- ton Roads, and 32 miles from the ocean- It was named Norfolk after one of the counties of England, by Colonel Thoro- good, who was one of the first settlers in what was then known as Elizabeth City County. It contains 20,000 inhabitants, and is, after Richmond, the most populous city in Virginia. A canal comes in here through the Dismal Swamp, which opens communication between Chesapeake Bay and Albemarle Sound. The city was laid out in 1*705, and incorporated as a borough in 1736. In 1'7'76 it was bm-nt by the British. In 1855 it was visited by the yellow fever, which carried oiT several hundreds of its inhabitants. The harbor is large, safe, and easily accessible, de- fended at its entrance by Forts Monroe and Calhoun. It is a great market for wild fowl, oysters, poultry, and vegetables. The Custom House and Post- Office, on Main Street, is a handsome edifice, recently erected at a cost of $228,505. The Cit}i Hall has a granite front, a cupola 110 feet high, and a handsome portico. The Baptist Church, on Freemason Street, has a fine steeple. Portsmouth, directly opposite Norfolk, is a naval depot of the United States. At the time of the secession of Virginia (April 18, 1861), the marines and others employed at the Navy Yard numbered 330 nearly one thousand men. Two days af- terwards it was destroyed by fire, together with the frigate Merrimac, the Pennsylva- nia and other ships-of-war. Property val- ued at several millions was destroyed, and the roar of the conflagration was heard for miles. It will take years to rebuild, if in- deed it is ever rebuilt. The U. 8. Naval Hospital, on the south bank of the Eliza- beth River, is an imposing-looking build- ing of brick, stuccoed. The SeaVjoard and Roanoke Railway comes in at Portsmouth from Weldon, N. C. Gosport lies just below. The United States Dry Dock at this suburb is a work of great extent and interest. Communication between Ports- mouth and Norfolk is kept up by ferry. Fort. Calhoun and Craney Island are at the entrance to the harbor. Tri-weekly steamers ply between Norfolk, City Point, Newborn, Mattapony River, and Cherry- stone. The oysters obtained in these waters are esteemed for their size and flavor. The " Virginia " and " Commer- cial " club-houses, in Bank Street, Nor- folk, are popular chop and oyster houses. Old Point Comfort and Foi'tress Monroe, 14 miles north of Norfolk, are much fre- quented by travellers, the former for its fine bathing-ground, the latter for its formidable military defences. They are pleasantly situated at the entrance to Hampton Roads. Fortress Monroe is the largest military work, and, strictly speak- ing, the only fortress in the United State. The area embraced within its outer vrorks is 65 acres. Within is a parade ground' 25 acres in extent, with numerous fine shade trees. It is a bas- tioned work, the walls built of granite, and 35 feet high. A moat '75 to 150 feet wide, and 8 to 15 feet deep, sur- rounds the work. The embrasures of the water battery on the sea face of the fort are 42 in number. The whole arma- ment of the fortress is 371 guns, many of which are the largest-sized colum-. < biads. It has always remained in the possession of the United States. The village of Hampton, three miles from Fortress Monroe, is largely occupied by freedmen. Horse-cars run there through- out the day. The restaurant "Hygea," at the " Old Point" steamboat landing, is a well-regulated establishment. The trip up the James affords the traT- STBRSBUEG.] VIRGINIA. [Williamsburg. er some charming river scenery and ivvs of many places full of historic in- est. Thirty-two miles above its mouth :'s passed the rimis of Jamestown. The 5tory of this spot is a romantic one, 111 of the varied story of early colonial venture and suffering, of the gallantry Captain John Smith, and the devotion [the gentle Pocahontas. The first Eng- fi settlement in the United States was lide here in 1607. Its Revolutionary ! tory was eventful. Nothing now re- illins of the town save a few ruins. scending the river, we next reach City \int, at the mouth of the Appomattox 10 miles east-northeast of Peters- with which place it has direct com- nication by railway. City Point ac- red vQry considerable prominence in t| annals of the war as a military camp depot for supplies of the Army of the omac. The brick building on the ex- tltae point of land overlooking the Ajd- pJQattoxwas occupied during the closing rs of the war as General Grant's head- Tters. The view from this point, in- endent of its memorable associations, . always render it attractive. Many of lines of Government storehouses and ots are still standing. The defences City Point are among the most note- thy objects of interest in the vicinity, re are no hotels worth mentioning, I atti'actions of the place not being at a|n that line. In the left bank of the James, imme- dtely above the mouth of the Ap- pijaattox, we pass Benmida Hundred, aij further on other points interest- inl through their association with the rcrements of the respective armies dur- in» the war. A short distance above V^ina Landing, at a bend in the river, tlij Dutch Gap Canal is passed, in sight otjhe signal-tower, and shortly after the Hvlett House Batteries and Drury's Bif (Fort Darling). Three miles fur- th| up, the roof and portico of the CiStol on Shockoe Ilill in Richmond riffi in view. retei*sl>»i-g-, 21 miles from Rieh- mld, 10 from City Point, is pleasantly sifi'ited on tlie south bank of the Appo- mjtox. It was the third city of the State prj ious to the war, containing a popula- tiifof nearly 16,000, but it has suffered tiifof n L terribly, and it must be many years be- fore it regains its former position. It is on the great route from New York to Charleston and New Orleans. The South- side Railway from Lynchburg, IrSS miles distant, terminates here. The ro- mantic ruins of the old church of Bland- ford are within the limits of this borough. The falls of the river just above the city furnish extensive water power. A canal round these falls affords passage for boats 100 miles above the city. It fell into the hands of the Union forces April 3, 1865. Marks of the fierce attacks to which it was subjected are seen everywhere in and around the city. A visit to the fortifica- tions will well repay the stranger. Fort Steadinan, " the last ditch " of the rebel- lion; the Crater, the scene of the ex- plosion and bloody struggle in August, 1864 ; Fort Hell, to the left of Steadman, where the Union and Rebel lines almost touch, and near by Fort Damnation, are among the places and scenes of interest around Petersburg. JarratCs is the lead- ing hotel. ROUTE II. ^W"illiaHisl>™rg-, 60 miles east of Richmond, and 68 miles west of Norfolk, the oldest incorporated town in A^irginia, and a place of extreme interest in its his- torical associations, is built upon a plain,, between the York and James Rivers, six miles from each. This was the seat of the colonial Government anterior to the Revolution, and the capital of the State until 1*779. It was first settled in 1632. William and Mary CoUeye, founded 1692, is the oldest educational estabhshment in the United States, after Harvard Univer- sity. Previous to the wav it had a fine librar)-. The losses sustained by this in- stitution during the v/ar are estimated at $80,000. An appeal for its relief is being urged abroad. In the centre of the lawn, fronting the College, is a mutilated statue of Lord Botetourt, one of the most popu- lar of the old colonial Governors. This statue was placed in its present position in 1 7 9 7. Falace of Lord JDunmore. — The remains of this ancient building, the home of the last of the royal Governors of Vir- ginia, is at the head of a pleasant broad ;^3i Williamsburg.] VIRGINIA. [FllEDERICKSBURO, court, extending from the main street in front of the City Hall. It was built of biick. The centre edifice was accident- ally destroyed by fire while occupied by the French soldiers, just after the surren- der of Cornwallis at Yorktown. Here the stately old Governor lived, or attempted to live, in royal splendor. All that now remains of his pomp are the two little outbuildings or wings of his palace, yet to be seen by the visitor at Williamsburg. The Old Ccqntol stood on the site of the present Court-House, on the square, oppo- site the Magazine. It was destroyed by fire in 1832. A few of the old arches lie yet around, half buried in the greensward. It was in the " Old Capitol " that the Bur- gesses of Virginia were assembled when Patrick Henry, the youngest member of that body, presented the series of bold resolutions which led to his famous speech : " Cassar had his Brutus, Charles the First his Cromwell, and George the Third " — concluded by tlaose master-words of raillery, when the excited assembly in- terrupted him with the cry of " Treason ! treason!" — "may profit by their exam- ple. If this be treason, make the most of it ! " The Apollo Room of the Raleigh Tavern is an apartment in another time- honored old building of Williamsburg, in vyhich the House of Burgesses assembled to consider the revolutionary movements which were then passing in Massachu- setts. This assembly had just been dis- solved by the Governor, in consequence of its passage of acts in opposition to those of the Lords and Commons of Eng- land just before received. The Queen's Rangers, commanded by Lieut.-Colonel Simcoe, entered Williamsburg, driving out the Virginia militia, on the stormy night of April 19, 1*781 . The thoughtful traveller will delight himself by recalling other incidents in the history of the lo- calities here presented, and in following the course of the great ti'ain of events which resulted from or were connected with them. Brenton Church, a venerable edifice of the early part of the last cen- tury, stands on the public square, near Palace Street or Court. It is a cruciform building, surmounted by a steeple. Near Brenton Church is an octagonal edifice, built duriag the administration of Gov- ernor Spottswood, known as the Old Mag- 332 azme. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum of Virginia is also located at this place. Yorlito^VM, upon the York River, 11 miles from its entrance into Chesa- peake Bay, 70 miles east-southeast of Richmond, and about 12 miles from Wil- liamsburg, is memorable as the scene of that closing event in the American Revo- lution, the surrender of the British army under Lord Cornwallis, October 19, 1781. This event is commemorated in one of ■ Colonel Trumbull's pictures in the rotunda of the Capitol at Washington. The pre- cise spot at Yorktown where the scene of : the surrender of the British arms and standards took place will be pointed out to the inquiring visitor. At the time of the surrender the place contained about sixty houses. In 1814 it was desolated by fire. Remains of the inirenchnunt'i cast up by the British on the south and east sides of the town are yet to be seen These mounds vary from 12 to 16 feet i'l height, and extend in broken lines fro'fl the river bank to the sloping grouDlS' back of the village. Cornv allis' Cavt is an excavation in the blufi upon wl.ich the village stands, reput*d to I.avei been made and used by Lord Oorn- wallis as a council chamber duriu'^ the siege. It is exhibited with this cha^, actex for a small fee. A quarter of fltt mile below this cave there is anotherJK which there is good reason to believe' really was thus occupied by the English command er. The region of country round Williamsburg and Yorktown bears abun- dant evidences of the operations conduct-i ed there during the recent rebellion. • JROUTE III. Fredericlislrarg-, 60 miles noith; of Richmond, and 70 miles south of Washington, is situated on the right bank i! of .the Rappahannock River, at the headt! of tide-water. On the route hither, 16, i miles from Richmond, the traveller passes-:, Ashland, the scene of many a cavalry rMdi'i during the war. During the battle of j Chancellorsville, Stoneman's cavalry madei a dash on this station, and later, Generalsi) Kilpatrick and Sheridan. At the junc-ij tion, seven miles beyond Ashland, a figWj took place between Grant and Lee, in tlw j SEDERICKSBURG.] VIRGINIA. [Lynchburg, jtimpaign from the Rappahannock to Cold [arbor. From Hamilton^ Crossing to redericksburg, a distance of four miles, tie line is laid through the scene of Burn- de's attack. That portion of Stafford ounty lying between the Rappahannock pd the Potomac Rivers, the scene of any a bivouac, march, and fight, is now desolate waste. Aquia Creeh, the rthern terminus of the road, is mainly own as the base of supplies for Burn- de during the operations against Freder- ksburg. The great fight took place De- toiber 13, 1862. The Birthplace of Washington. — It s in the vicinity of Fredericksburg at Washington was born, and here passed his early years ; and here, repose the remains of his hon- ed mother. The birthplace of the ther of his Country is about half a le from the junction of Pope's Creek th the Potomac, in Westmoreland unty. It is upon the " Wakefield es- now in the possession of John E. ilson, Esq. The house in which the at patriot was bom was destroyed be- e the Revolution. It was a plain Vir- ia farm-house of the better class, with r rooms, and an enormous chimney on k outside at each end. The spot where ifetood is now marked by a slab of free- fpe, which was deposited by George W. " Custis, Esq., in the presence of other itlemen, in June, 1815. On the tablet this simple inscription : " Here, the ]jrn OF February (0. S.), 1'732, George iPHINGTON WAS BORN." The remains of the mother of Washing- 1 1 repose in the immediate vicinage of ;dericlcsburg, on the spot which she Ifself, years before her death, selected f|! her grave, and to which she was wont retire for private and devotional ught. It is marked by an unfinished, imposing monument. The corner- e of this structure was laid by An- d|w Jackson, President of the United Stes at the time, on the IVa of May, l|3, in the presence of a large concourse ojpeople, and with' solemn ceremonials. ifer the lapse of almost a quarter of a cttury the monument remains still unfin- ifi'd. The mother of Washington re- s|d, during the latter part of her life, ir|l''redericksburg, near the spot where she now lies buried. In a house recently occupied by Mr. Richard SterUng, at the corner of Charles and Lewis Streets, her last but memorable interview with her il- lustrious son took place when she was bowed down with age and disease. The principal hotel in the town, and indeed almost the only one left open for travel- lers, is the Planters' House. BOUTE ir. Richmond to Burkesville, Lynchburg, Lexington, and Bristol, by Richmond and Danville Railway. Biarlfesville (54 miles), in Prince Edward County, is situated at the junc- tion of the Richmond and Danville Rail- way with the Southside Railway. The surrender of the shattered Army of Vir- ginia was made near here, April, 1865. Ijymclalmi-g' (120 miles) is finely situated on the north bank of the James River. The town was founded in 1*786, and incorporated in 1805. The James River and Kanawha Canal, the greatest public work in Virginia, following the course of the river from Richmond, passes Lynchburg on its way to Buchanan and Covington. Distant from Richmond, by canal, 147 miles. The connecting roads with the South and Southwest are the Virginia and Tennessee Railway to Bristol, the East Tennessee and Virginia Railway to Knoxvillc, and the East Ten- nessee and Georgia Railway to Chatta- nooga. Distance to Chattanooga, 446 miles. Lynchburg is on the route to and in the immediate vicinity of the Spring region. The Natural Bridge and the Peaks of Otter are here easUy accessible. (See descriptive sketches.) Slanville (141 miles), the terminus ^ of the Richmond and Danville Railway, is y pleasantly situated at the head of naviga- tion on the Dan River, five miles from the boundary line of North Carolina. Popu- lation 4,000. The Piedmont Railway, running 48 miles to Greensboro', N. C., terminates here. Hicxiiig-toii (155 miles) is charm- ingly situated on the North River, amidst the mountain and spring region of West- ern Virginia, 35 miles northwest of Lynchburg, from which point it is reach- 333 Hanover Court House.] VIRGINIA. [Chaulottesvili.e. ed by stage. Washington College was founded in 1798, and was endowed by General Washington. The Virginia Mil- ilarg Instilute was established by the State Legislature in 1838-39. In July, 1S56, a copy in bronze of Iloudon's statue of Washington, in the Capitol at llich- mond, was erected here. The town was laid out in 17*78. I'opulation about 2,000, The Natiiiid Bridge and Peaks of Otter are v\ithin easy stage-ride. MOJJTE r. Richmond to Hanover C. H., Gordons- viLLE, Charlottesville, Monticello, Staunton, and Millboro, by Virginia Central Railway. Masiover CoM.rt-Hoii.se (18 miles) is memorable as the scene of Patrick Henry's early oratorical triumphs, and as the birthplace of Henry Clay. It is pleasantly situated near the Pamunky River. Three miles from the Court- House, on the right of the turnpike road leading to Richmond, stands, or did when the author last visited it before the war, the house in which Clay was born. The building is a " one-story frame," with dormer windows, and a large outside chimney (after the universal fashion of Southern country-houses) at each gable. In this humble tenement the Senator who "would rather be right than be Presi- idcnt," was born, in 1777. The fiat, piny region, in which it is situated, is called the Slashes of Hanover ; hence the popu- lar sobriquet familiarly applied to the great statesman, of the " Millboy of the Slashes." Hanover awakens pleasant memories of Patrick Henry assembling bis volunteers and marching to Williams- burg to demand the restoration of the powder which Lord Dunmore had remov- ed from the public magazine, or payment therefor, a daring demand, which he however succeeded in enforcing, as the Governor, alarmed at the strength of his cortege, which grew as he went along to 150 in numbei', sent out the Receiver- General with authority to compromise the matter. The young leader required and obtained the value of the powder, 330 pounds, and sent it to the treasury at Williamsburg. This incident happened 334 at Newcastle, once a prosperous villufie, but now a ruin, with a single house ouly on its site. Croi-donsville (76 miles), in Or- ange County, is situated at the intersec- tion of the Orange and Alexandria Rail- way, to Lynchburg. Cliaa-lottesvillc (97 miles), fe- mous as the seat of the University of Virginia, and for its vicinage to Monticcl- lo, the home and tomb of Thomas Jeifer- erson, is situated on the Rivanna River, in the east-central part of the State, 119 miles from Washington City by the Orange and Alexandria and the Virginia Central Railways. Tlie Universitu of Virginia, one of the most distinguished of the colleges of the United States, is situated about a _Tiile west of the village of Charlottesville. It is built on moder- atly elevated gi'ound, and forms a striking feature in a beautiful landscape. On the southwest it is shut in by mountains, be- yond which, a few miles distant, rise the broken, and occasionally steep and rug- ged, but not elevated ridges, the charac- teristic feature of which is expressed by the name of Ragged Mountains. To the northwest the Blue Ridge, some 20 miles off, presents its deep-colored outline, stretching to the northeast and looking down upon the mountain-like hills that here and there rise from the plain without its western base. To the east, the ere rests upon tho low mountain range that bounds the view as far as the vision can extend northeastward and southwest- ward along its slopes, except where it is interrupted directly to the east by a hilly but fertile plain, through which the Ei- vanna, with its discolored stream, flows by the base of Monticello. To the south, the view reaches far away until the hori- zon meets the plain, embracing a region lying between the mountains on either hand, and covered with forests inter spersed with spots of cultivated land. The University of Vii'ginia was founded in 1819, by Thomas Jeiferson, and so great was his interest in its success, and his es- timate of its importance, that in his epi- taph, found among his papers, he ranks his share in its foundation third among the achievements and honors of his life— the authorship of the Declaration of In- dependence being the first, and of the II MONTICELLO.] VIRGINIA. [Wheeling. Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom the second. The University is endowed and controlled by the State. Monticello, once the beautiful home, and now the tomb of Jefferson, is about four miles west of Charlottesville. ,'' This venerated mansion," says Mr. Los- bing, in his "Field Book of the Revolu- tion," "is yet standing, though somewhat dilapidated and deprived of its former beauty by neglect. The furniture of its pistinguished owner is nearly all gone, lexcept a few pictures and mirrors ; other- ise the interior of the house is the same s when .Jefferson died. It is upon an minence, with many aspen-trees around t, and commands a view of the Blue idge for 150 miles on one side, and on ;he other one of the most beautiful and sxtensive landscapes in the world. Wirt, writing of the interior arrangements of he house during Mr. Jefferson's lifetime, ecords that, in the spacious and lofty all which opens to the visitor on enter- ' he marks no tawdry and unmean- g ornaments ; but before, on the right, n the left, all around, the eye is struck nd gratified by objects of science and ste, so classed and arranged as to pro- uce their finest effect. On one side [pecimens of sculpture, set out in such rder as to exhibit at a coup cCceil the istoric progress of that art, from the rst rude attempts of the aborigines of ur country, up to that exquisite and nished bust of the great patriot himself, cm the master-hand of Cerracchi. On e other side, the visitor sees displayed vast collection of the specimens of the bdian art, their paintings, weapons, or- laments, and manufactures ; on another, array of fossil productions of our untry, mineral and animal; the petri- d remains of those colossal monsters hich once trod our forests, and are no lore; and a variegated display of the ] ranching honors of those monarchs of le waste that still people the wilds of e American Continent ! In a large sa- on were exquisite productions of the winter's art, and from its windows open- a view of the surrounding country ch as no painter could imitate. There re, too, medallions and engravings in •eat profusion.' Monticello v/as a point great attraction to the learned of all lands, when travelling in this country, while Mr. Jefferson lived. His writings made him favorably known as a scholar, and his public position made him honor- ed by the nations. The remains of Mr. Jefferson lie in a small family cemetery by the side of the winding road leading to Monticello." Over them is a granite obelisk 8 feet high, which bears the fol- lowing inscription : " HEEE Lies BTTEIED THOMAS JEFFERSON, Author of the Declaration of Independence ; of the Statute of Virginia for Religions Freedom ; And Father of the University of Virginia." Sta.iisa.toxiL (136 miles) is pleasantly located in Augusta County, upon a small branch of the Shenandoah River. It is a pretty and prosperous village, with a pop- ulation of between 2,000 and 3,000. The Western Lunatic Asylum and the State Institution for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, are among its principal objects of interest. It is the main point of rendez- vous for tourists to the spring region, hard by. Weyer^s and Madison's caves (18 miles) are reached by stage. ROUTE VI. Mai'pei-'s ITerry (160 miles north of Richmond). See Maryland, for Baltimore and Ohio Railway. "li^iaacliester (30 miles from Har- per's Ferry), by Winchester and Potomac Railway, is in the midst of a pleasant and picturesque country in the northwestern part of the State 20 miles west of the Blue Ridge, and within the limits of the great Valley of Virginia. Ice Mountain, in Hampshire County, 26 miles north- west from Winchester, is a natural curi- osity. Blocks of ice are found here at all seasons of the year. On the west side of the North Mountain in this coun- ty, are the famous Capon Springs, Candy Castle, the Tea Table, and the Hanging Rocks, are notable curiosities in this re- gion. "WlieeliiBg', the capital of West Virginia, and the terminus of the Balti- more and Ohio Railway, is situated on the east bank of the Ohio River, and on both sides of Wheeling Creek, 379 miles west of Baltimore, 95 miles below Pittsburg, 335 Wellsbdrg.] VIEGINIA. [The Springs. and 365 miles above Cincinnati. It has railroad communication with the cities of Cleveland and Pittsburg, and is also the terminus of the Hempfield Rail- road. The site of the city is an alluvial tract extending along the river bank a distance of three miles of varying width, shut in by hills. It has important man- ufactories of iron, glass, and paper. The first settlement was made in IJQd. The suspension bridge across the Ohio River has a span of 1,010 feet. It is built of wire, and cost $210,000. The tops of the towers are 153 feet from low-water mark. The city contains a handsome court-house, a custom house, and twenty church edifices. Extensive vineyards are in the neighborhood. Popu- lation 22,000 liVellsljiirg', on the Ohio River, 16 miles above Wheeling, was laid ■ out in 1789, and named after Alexander Wells, who built the first flouring-mills on the Ohio. It was originally called Charles- town. Among the early settlers was Joseph Doddridge, author of the " Indian Wars of Northwestern Virginia." Rich coal mines are in the vicinity. Bethany, eight miles distant, is the seat ot a col- lege, founded in 1841, by Rev. Alexander Campbell. I?arliei*sl>rarg-, the second city of Western Virginia, and the county seat of Wood County, is pleasantly situated on the Ohio at the mouth of the Little Ka- nawha River. It was laid out in 1817, incorporated in 1820, and chartered in 1860. It has had a rapid gi-owth since the formation of the State ; the streets are well laid out. Oil wells abound in the vicinity. Good turnpike roads lead to Winchester and Staunton. Popula- tion 6,000. THE SJPMIWGS. As the spring? of Virginia furnish an important characteristic feature of the State, and annually attract a large con- course of visitors, I have thought it best to devote a considerable portion of this (chapter wholly to them. First, as to the best means of reaching them. From Richmond, the Virginia Central via Staun- ton, Goshen to Millboro', and thence by 336 stage and the Richmond and Danville and Southside Railways to Lynchburg, and thence via Lexington, Ky., afibrJ the easiest routes. From Baltimore and Washington the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- way to Harper's Ferry and Winchester and thence by stage or the ferry to Alexan- dria, and thence by Orange and Alexan- dria and Virginia Central Railways as be- fore. The latter is the more expeditious, though not so interesting. Approaching from the south, travellers should diverge from Richmond. From the west, passen- gers should leave the Ohio River route at t Guyandotte, and thence by stage. For minute details, consult the recent news- paper announcements and the hotel-keep- ers. The best time to visit these springs and drink the waters is from 1st July to September. A few words of advice to those who visit them, as most do, for the benefit of their health, contributed by one who is qualified to give advice in such matters, are inserted here : " When the patient, under proper advice, has se- lected and arrived at the Spring where he expects relief, there are some obser- vances so essential to his success, that in a work professing in some degree to serve as his guide, it would be improper to omit calling attention to them. If he has di- rections from his family physician, the first question that suggests itself is. Is he in the precise condition in which that physician saw him ? If he be not, what change has taken place, and what new symptoms have occurred ? It will readi- ly be understood, that if the journey has been tedious and laborious, as in visits from the distant States must be the case, the invalid may have sufifered from a change of water, he may be in a state of over-excitement, or exhaustion, from v/ant of sleep, fatigue, or want of accus- tomed comforts. He may, from expos- ure, have taken cold and be in the incipi- ent stage of catarrhal fever. His liver may have been deranged by the journey. His arterial and nervous system may be abnormally excited. He may have head- ache, furred tongue, or he may be con- stipated, or in other respects 'o%it of sorts,' and so on ad nauseam,.'''' In all such cases, and they are of course numer- ous, the only relief to be hoped for is by sending the patient to the water adapted The Springs.] VIRGINIA. [The Springs. to his disease. " Whether he employs a physician or not, let me say to the inva- lid: 'Be in slow haste.' Survey the whole ground according to the sugges- tions I have laid before you. Do not gulp down large quantities of water to expedite a cure. It would be about as wise as the conduct of a man who eats to repletion, in order to get the worth of his money, or as that of the old negro who swallowed down all the physic left by his master, lest it should go to waste. Be moderate in all things. Take the water so as to insure its gradual diffusion through your system, that you may ob- tain that invisible and silent alterative ac- tion which is eventually to eradicate your disease. Go to work coolly, calmly, and systematically, and you will own the ben- efit of the advice." " Follow as near as circumstances will permit the following course of treatment : If the weather and other circumstances admit, rise about 6, throw your cloak on your shoulders, visit the Spring, take a small-sized tumbler of water, move about in a brisk walk; drink again at &\, continuing moderate exer- cise — again at Y ; breakfast about 8, but let it be moderate and of suitable quality. In most cases, a nice tender mutton-chop, or a fresh soft-boiled egg, or venison, or beef-steak is admissible. Eat stale bread, or corn mush, or hominy — the latter a delightful article to be found at some of the Springs — -a cup of black tea, not strong, or a glass of unslcimmed milk. If you value your health less than the grati- fication of your palate and stomach, you can indulge in buckwheat cakes, floating in butter, omelets of stale eggs, strong coffee, half-baked pastry, rich pates, hot bread, and such like, and take the conse- Iquences. After breakfast, walk, ride, or drive till near noon. Eat no luncheon at noon, but take a glass of water, and jwalk in the shade. Drink again at 12^ — again at 1. Dine about 2. Eat for 17'ishmcnt, and not for luxury. Avoid i)i'.d potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, unions, salt meat of every description, iKi^try, fruits, either cooked or in their iKitural state. Though innocent else- u here, they are not usually so at mineral waters. Amuse yourself in social inter- course or gentle exercise until 6, take a ^lass of water — walk or ride until sup- | 15 per — take a cup of black tea or a glass of milk and a cracker." Avoid as much as possible all excitements and late hours. J7ie White Sulphur Springs. — Not knowing which of the several routes our traveller may desire to follow, we shall, instead of journeying in any prescribed line from Spring to Spring, jump at once to that central and most famous point, the White Sulphur. This favorite Spa is on Howard's Greek, in Greenbrier County, directly on the edge of the Great Western Valley, and near the base of the Alleghany range of mountains, which rise at all points in picturesque and winning beauty. Kate's Mountain, which recalls some heroic exploits of an Indian maiden of long ago, is one fine point in the scene, southward ; while the Greenbrier Hills lie two miles away, toward the west, and the lofty Alleghany towers up ma- jestically on the north and east. The Hot Spring is 38 miles distant, on the north ; the Sweet Spring, 17 miles to the eastward ; the Salt and the Eed Springs, 24 and 41 miles, respectively, on the south; and the Blue Spring, 22 miles away, on the west. The vicinage of the White Sulphur is as grateful in natural attraction as the waters are admirable in medicinal value. Its locale is a charming valley, environed, like that of Rasselas, by soaring hills, and the summer home in its midst has all the conveniences and luxuries of a veritable Castle of Indo- lence. Fifty acres, perhaps, are occupied with lawns and walks, and the cabins and cottages of the guests, built in rows around the public apartments, the dming- room, the ball-room, etc., give the place quite a merry, happy village air. There is Alabama Row, Louisiana, Paradise, Baltimore, and Virginia Rows, Georgia, Wolf, and Bachelor's Rows, Broadway, the Colonnade, Virginia Lawn, the Spring, and other specialties. The cot- tages are built of wood, brick, and of logs, one story high ; and, altogether, the social arrangement and spirit here, as at all the surrounding Springs, has a pleas- ant, quiet, home sentiment, very nuich more desirable than the metropolitan temper of more accessible and more thronged resorts. It is said that the site of these Springs was once the favorite hunting-ground of the Shawnees, a tradi- 337 The Springs.] VIRGINIA. tion supported by the remains found in various parts of tlie valley, in the shape of implements of the chase and ancient gi'aves. It is not known precisely at what period the Spring was discovered. Though the Indians undoubtedly knew its virtues, thei'e is no record of its being- used by the whites until 1^78. Log- cabins were first erected on the spot in I'ZSi-'Se, and the place began to assume something of its present aspect about 1820. Since then it has been yearly im- proved, until it is capable of pleasantly housing some 1,500 guests. The spring bubbles up from the earth in the lowest part of the valley, and is covered by a pavilion, formed of twelve Ionic columns, supporting a dome, crowned by a statue of Hygeia. The Spring is at an elevation of 2,000 feet above tide-water. Its tem- perature is 62° Fahrenheit, and is uniform through all seasons. Its average yield is about thirty gallons per minute, and the supply is neither diminished in dry weath- er, nor increased by the longest rains. The Salt Sulphur Spi-ings, three in num- ber, are about twenty-four miles from the White Sulphur, near Union, the capital of Monroe County. Like the White Sul- phur, they are beautifully nestled in the lap of mountain ranges. The Springs are near the eastern base of Swope's Mountain. On the north, the Alleghany rises, while Peter's Mountain extends on the south and east. The Salt Sulphur was discovered in 1805, by Mr. Irwin Benson, while boring for salt water, which he was led to hope for by the fact that the spot had formerly been a favor- ite "lick" for deer and buffalo. The hotels and cottages at the Salt Sulphur have accommodation for four hundred guests. T/ie Blue Sulphur Spring, in Green- brier County, is another sweet valley nook, 22 miles west of the White Sul- phur, 32 north by east from the Red Sulphur, and 13 from Lcwisburg. It is upon the turnpike road to Guyandotte, on the Ohio. Its geographical position is within the magic hill-circle of the great group of the Westerne Springs, en- joying all the healthful climates of that most salubrious of regions. A fine hotel 180 feet in length, built of brick, with piazzas extending its entire length, affords 338 1 [The SrniNGS. 1 .._ \ good accommodation during the season. The Ri'd Sulphur Sprhiffs, in the south- ern portion of Monroe County, are 42 miles below the White Sulphur, lY from the Salt, 32 from the Blue, and 39 from the Sweet. The approach to these Springs is beautifully romantic and picturesque. Wending his way around a high moun- tain, the weary traveller is for a moment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet immediately beneath him. Con- tinuing the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, to the en- trance of a verdant glen, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion of it, is about two hundred feet in width. Its course is nearly north for about one hundred and fifty yards, when it begins gradually to contract, and changes its direction to the northwest and west, until it terminates in a narrow point. This beautifully secluded Tempo is the chosen site of the village. The northwest portion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts ; the southern portion, just at the base of the east and west mountains, is that upon which stand the various edi- fices for the accommodation of visitors. These buildings are spacious and con- veniently arranged, while the prome- nades, which are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are beautifully embellished, and shaded from the mid-day sun by large, umbrageous sugar-maples. The Spring is situated at the southwest point of the valley, and the water is collected into two white marble fountains, over which is thrown a substantial cover. These Springs have been known and dis- tinguished as a watering-place for nearly sixty years. The improvements at the place are extensive and well-designed, combining elegance with comfort, and are sufficient for the accommodation of' 350 persons. The water of the spring i3 clear and cool, its temperature being 54° Fahrenheit. T7ie Sweet Spriugs are in the eastern part of Moiu-oe County, 17 miles southeast of the White Sulphur and 22 from the Salt Sulphur. They have been known longer than any other mineral waters in Virginia, having been .If The Springs.] VIRGINIA. [The Springs. discovered as early as 1'764. So long ago as 1YY4 these waters were analyzed by Bishop Madison, then the President of William and Mary College. They lie in a lovely valley, five miles in length, and between a mile and half a mile broad. The Alleghany Mountain bounds them on the north, and the Sweet Spring Mountain rises on the south. The hotel here is of noble extent, 250 feet long, with a dining- hall of 160 feet. The Red Sweet Springs are a mile only from the Sweet Springs just mentioned, on the way to the White Sulphur. This water is chalybeate, and a powerful agent in cases requiring a tonic treatment. The landscape here is most agreeable. A mile and a half from the Sweet Springs are the Beaver-dam Falls. THEEMAL "W A TEES. TJie Warm Springs are in Bath Coun- ty, about lYO miles, nearly west, on the great Sfiriug route fuom Staunton. They are situated in a delightful valley, between lofty hill ranges. Pine views are opened all about on the Warm Spring Mountain. Prom the " Gap," where the road crosses, and from "the -Rock," 2,700 feet above tide-water, the display is deservedly famous. Tlie Baih Ahmx Springs are at the eastern base of the Warm Spring Moun- tain, five miles east of the Warm Springs, 47 miles east of the Wliite Sulphur, and 45 Vilest of Staunton. The valley of the Bath Alum is a cosy glen of 1,000 acres, sliut in, upon the east, by Mc- Clung's Ridge ; on the southeast by Shayer's Mountain ; on the west by the Piney Ridge ; and on the southwest by Little Piney. Hot Springs. — Five miles removed from the Warm Springs, at the intersec- tion of two narrow valleys, are the Hot Springs. The scenery here, though very agreeable, as is that of all the region roimd, is not especially striking. Heal- ing Spring.i, Bath County. — These ther- mal waters lie in a jjleasant valley of eight or ten miles' extent, between the Warm Spring Mountain on the east and the Valley Mountain on the west. In the ocighborliood is a fine cascade. The Rockbridge Alum Springs are in Rockbridge County, on the main road from Lexington to tlie Warm Springs, 17 miles from the first and 22 from the sec- ond point. The valley in which they are found lies below the North Mountain on the east and the Mill Mountain on the west. T/ie Fauquier White Sidplmr, in Fau- quier County, are 40 miles from Fred- ericksburg and 132 miles from I^ch- mond. They are quickly reached by rail from either point. Jordan's White Sulphur. These Springs are in Frederick County, five miles ft-om Winchester, and one mile and a half from Stephenson Depot, on the Winches- ter and Potomac Railway. Distance from Harper's Ferry 28^ miles. The Capon Springs are 23 miles south- west of Winchester, at the base of the North Mountain. Take the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, from Baltimore to Harper's Ferry, 82 miles ; thence the Potomac and Winchester, 32 miles, to Winchester; thence by stage; or take the Orange and Alexandria road from Alexandria, 27 miles, to Manassas Station and the Manassas Gap Railway, 61 miles more, to Strasburg. The Shannondale Springs are in Jef- ferson Couirty, five miles and a half from Charleston, a point on the railway from Harper's Ferry to Winchester. Distance to Charleston from Harper's Ferry, 10 miles; from Baltimore, 92 miles. Tlie Berkeley Springs, Morgan County, are two miles and a half from Sir John's Run, a point on the Baltimore and Ohio Railway 130 miles west of Baltimore. This is a very ancient and distinguished resort, esteemed and frequented by Wash- ington before the Revolution. Commo- dious hotels. DibrelVs Sp>ring is on the main road from Lynchburg to the White Sulphur, 19 miles v^est, by a direct road from the Natural Bridge. It is in the extreme northwestern part of Botetourt County, 30 miles east of the Alleghanies, and at the base of Gordon Mountain. The Alleghany Springs are in Mont- gomery County, on the south fork of the Roanoke River, 10 miles east of Chris- tiansbui'g, on the Virginia and Tennessee Railway. From Richmond to Christians- 339 TuE Natural Bridge.] VIRGmiA. [The Natural Bridge burg, 210 miles west ; from Lynchburg, 8(J miles. New London Alum is in the County of Campbell, 10 miles southwest of Lynch- burg. Grayson's Sulphur are west of the Blue Ridge, in Carroll County, 20 miles south of Wytheville, on the New River — a region of remarkable natural beauty. Pulaski Alum Spring^ in Pulaski Coun- ty, on Little Water Creek, 10 miles from Newbern, and seven miles, in a direct line, from the Virginia and Tennessee Railway. TJie Huguenot Springs is a watering- place in Powhatan County, 17 miles from Richmond. Take the Richmond and Danville Railway to the Springs sta- tion, about 10 miles, thence by good omnibuses or stages. A pleasant excur- sion from Richmond. There are many other mineral fountains in Virginia, dis- covered and undiscovered. We have mentioned only those of much resort. 7716 Natural Bridge is in Rockbridge County, in Western Virginia, 63 miles from the White Sulphur Springs. From Washington, the traveller hither may take the Orange and Alexandria Railway to Gordonsville, on the Virginia Central and the Central to Millboro', and thence by stage. From Richmond or other points by railway to Lynchburg, and thence by canal packet thirty-five miles to the bridge. Fi'om Lexington the distance is 14 miles, six of which are over a heavy road. It is situated at the bottom of the deep chasm in which flows the little stream called Cedar Creek, and across the top of which, from brink to brink, there still ex- tends an enormous rocky stratum, that time and gravity have moulded into a graceful arch. The bed of Cedar Creek is more than two hundred feet below the surface of the plain, and the sides of the enormous chasm, at the bottom of which the water flows, are composed of solid rock, maintaining a position almost per- pendicular. These adamantine walls do not seem to be water-worn, but suggest the idea of an enormous cavern, that in remote ages may have been covered for miles by the continuation of that stratum of which all that now remains is, the arch of the Natural Bridge. The first sensa- 340 tion of the beholder is one of double astonishment: first, at the absolute sub- limity of the scene ; next, at the total in- adequacy of the descriptions he has read, and the pictures he has seen, to produce in his mind the faintest idea of the re- ality. The great height gives the arch an air of grace and lightness that must be seen to be felt, and the power of speech is for a moment lost in contem- plating the immense dimensions of the surrounding objects. The middle of the arch is forty-five feet in perpendicular thickness, which increases to sixty at its juncture with the vast abutments. Its top, which is covered with soil supporting shrubs of various sizes, is two hundred and ten feet high. It is sixty feet wide, and its span is almost ninety feet. Across the top passes a public road, and being in the same plane with the neigh- boring country, you may cross it in a coach without being aware of the inter- esting pass. There are several forest trees of large dimensions growing near the edge of the creek directly under the arch, which do not nearly reach its low- est part. The most imposing view is from about sixty yards below the bridge, close to the edge of the creek ; from that position the arch appears thinner, lighter, and loftier. From the edge of the creek, at some distance above the bridge, you look at the thicker side of the arch, which from this point of view approaches somewhat to the Gothic. A little above the bridge, on the western side of the creek, the wall of rock is broken into buttress-like masses, which rise almost perpendicularly to a height of nearly two hundred and fifty feet, terminating in separate pinnacles which overlook the bridge. When you are exactly under the arch, and cast your glance upward, the' space appeai''s immense ; and the symme-' try of the ellipsoidal concave formed by the 1 arch and the gigantic walls from which it; springs, is wonderfully pleasing. From. t^iis position the views in both directions are subUme and striking from the im^^ mense height of the rocky walls, stretch, ing away in various curves, covered inl some places by the drapery of the forest^ green and graceful, and in others withoni a bramble or a bush, bare and blue. The Pcal-s of Otter. — These famouf TuE Peaks of Otter.] VIRGINIA. [The Peaks of Otter. mountaiu heights are in the same region as the Natural Bridge. They He in the county of Bedford, 10 miles from the village of Liberty, and 35 miles from Lynchburg. The summits of the Peaks of Otter are about two miles apart. The northern mountain rises 4,200 feet above the plain and 5,307 above the sea. It is the south- ern or conical peak which is most of- ten ascended. "After riding about a quarter of a mile," says a visitor to these peaks, "we came to the point beyoiid which horses cannot be taken, and dis- mounting from our steeds, commenced ascending on foot; the way was very steep, and the day so warm that we had to halt often to take breath. As we ap- proached the summit, the trees were all of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and gnarled by the storms of that high re- gion. There were also a few blackberry bushes, bearing their fruit long after the season had passed below. A few minutes longer brought us to where the trees ceased to grow ; but a huge mass of rocks, piled wildly on top of each other, finished the termination of the peak. Our path lay for some distance around the base of it, and under the overhang- ing battlements, and rather descending for a while, until it led to a part of the pile which could with some eflfort be scaled. There was no ladder, nor any ar- tificial steps, and the only means of as- cent was by climbing over the successive rocks. We soon stood upon the wild platform of one of Nature's most magnifi- cent observatories, isolated and appar- ently above all things else terrestrial, and looking down upon and over a beautiful, variegated, and at the same time grand, wild, wonderful, and almost boundless panorama. Indeed, it was literally boundless, for there was a considerable haze resting upon some parts of the ' world below,' so that, in the distant ho- rizon, the earth and sky seemed insensi- bly to mingle with each other. I had been there before. I remember, wherf a boy of lit'tle more than ten years old, to have been taken to that spot, and how my unpractised nerves forsook me at the sublimity of the scene. On this day it was as new as ever ; as wild, wonderful, and sublime as if I had never before looked from those isolated rocks, or stood on that awful summit. On one side, tow- ard Eastern Virginia, lay a compara- tively level country in the distance, bear- ing strong resemblance to the ocean ; on the other hand were ranges of high mountains, interspersed with cultivated spots, and then terminating in piles of mountains, following in successive ranges, until they were lost also in the haze. Above and below, the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies ran off in long lines ; sometimes reUeved by knolls and peaks, and in one place above us making a grace- ful curve, and then again running off in a different line of direction. North of us, and on the other side of the Valley of Virginia, were the mountains near Lex- ington, just as seen from that beautiful village — the Jump, North, and House Mountains succeeding each other. They were familiar with a thousand associa- tions of our childhood, seeming mysteri- ously, when away from the spot, to bring my early home before me — not in imagi- nation such as had often haunted me when I first left to find another in the world, but in substantial reality. Fur- ther on down the valley, and at a great distance, was the top of a large moun- tain, which was thought to be the Great North Mountain, away down in Shenan- doah County. I am afraid to say how far off. Intermediate between these mountains, and extending opposite and far above us, vfas the Valley of Virginia, with its numerous and highly cultivated farms. Across this valley, and in the distance, lay the remote ranges of the Alleghany, and mountains about, and, I suppose beyond, the White Sulphur Springs. Nearer us, and separating East- ern and Western Virginia, was the Blue Ridge, more than ever showing the pro- priety of its cognomen of the ' back bone,' and on which we could distinctly see two zigzag turnpikes, the one leading to Eincastle, and the other to Buchanan, and over which latter we had travelled a few days before. With the spy-glass we could distinguish the houses in the village of Fincastle, some twenty-five or thirty mQes off, and the road leading to the town. Turning toward the direction of our morning's ride, we had beneath us Bedford County, with its smaller moim- tains, farms, and farm-houses, the beauti- 34:1 Madison's Cave.] VIRGINIA. [Blowing Catf.. ful village of Liberty, the county roads, and occasionally a mill-pond, I'eflecting the sun like a sheet of polished silver. The houses on the hill at Lynchburg, twenty-five or thirty miles distant, are distinctly visible on a clear day, and also Willis' Mountain, away down in Bucking- ham County. The tourist may take a carriage from Liberty or at Buchanan, to the Peaks. A fine, well-graded turnpike leads thence, and a good hotel is at the base of the mountain." Wci/er^s Cave. This wonderful place, scarcely inferior in its mysterious grandeur to the celebrated Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, is in the northeastern corner of Augusta County, VY miles from Staunton (on the Central Railway), 16 miles from Waynesboro', and 32 from Charlottesville. This cave was named after Bernard Weyer, who dis- covered it in 1804, while in chase of a wild animal who fled thither for escape. Many of the countless apartments in this grand subterranean castle are of exquisite beauty — others, again, are magnificent in their grand extent. Washington Hall, the largest chamber, is upwards of 250 feet in length. Following its various avenues, the visitor may traverse this cave upwards of half a mile. To see it in all its beauty, lights should be used. Jlladison's Cave, within a few hundred yards of Weyer's, is thus described by Mr. Jefferson, in his " Notes on Virginia : " "It is on the north side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rock- ingham and Augusta line with the south fork of the southern river Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpen- dicular height, the ascent of which on one side is so steep, that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. The entrance of the cave is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 300 feet, branching into subordi- nate caverns, sometimes ascending a lit- tle, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different places at basins of water of unknown ex- tent, and which I should judge to be nearly on a level with the v/ater of the river ; however, I do not think they are formed by refluent water from that, be- cause they are never turbid ; because 342 they do not rise and full in correspond- ence with that in times of flood, or of drought, and because the water is always cool. It is probably one of the many reservoirs with which the interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound. The vault of this cave is of solid lime- stone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, through which water is continually perco- lating. This, trickling down the side* of the cave, has incrusted them over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vault generates on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met and formed massive columns." The Blowing Cave is on the stage road be- tween the Rockbridge and the Bath Alum Springs, one mile west of the vil- lage of Millboro'. When the internal and external atmosphere is the same, there is no perceptible current issuing frOm it. In intense hot weather, the air comes out with so much force as to prostrate the weeds at the entrance. In intense cold weather, the air draAvs in. There is a Floiving and Ebbing Spring on the same stream with the Blowing Cave. The Haivlc's Jsfest, sometimes called Mar- shaWs Pillar, is on New River, in Fayette County, a few rods only from the road "lead- ing from Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to the White Sulphur Springs — 96 miles from Guyandotte, and 64 miles from the Springs. It is an immense pillar of rock, with a vertical height of 1,000 feet above the bed of the river. " You leave the road by a little by-path, and after ^ pursuing it for a short distance, the' whole scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how shall we describe it ? The great charm of the whole is connected - ■ with the point of sight, which is the finest imaginable. You come suddenly to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. ^ It projects on the scene, and is so small -i* as to give standing only to some half •>:. dozen persons. It has on its head an old picturesque pine : and it breaks away ■■ I at your feet abruptly and in perpendicu- \ lar fines, to a depth of more than 1,000 ; feet. Standing on this ledge, which, by its elevated and detached character, afl'ects you with dizziness, the forest rises above and around you. Beneath and be- fore you is spread a lovely valley. A I Tua Ice Mountain.] VIRGINIA. [The Hanging Kocks. peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, like a mirror, all the lights of heaven, washes the foot of the rocks on which ■you are standing, and then winds away into another valley at your right. The trees of the wood, in all their variety, stand out on the verdant bottoms, with tlicir heads in the sun, and casting their shadows at your feet, but so diminished as to look more like the pictures of the things than the things themselves. The green liills I'ise on either hand and all around, and give completeness and beauty to the scene. Beyond these appears the gray outline of the more dis- tant mountains, bestowing grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It is ex- quisite. It conveys to you the idea of per- fect solitude." The Ice Mountain is a re- markable natural curiosity, in the county of Hampshire. It is upon the North River (eastei'n bank), 26 miles northwest of Winchester (see Baltimore and Ohio Rail- way). The Salt Fond is a charming lake, on the summit of Salt Pond Mountain, one of the highest peaks of the Alleghanies. It is in Giles County, 10 miles east of Parisburg and live miles from the Hy- geian Springs. It abounds in fresh trout and other fish. Caudy's Castle was so named from having been the retreat of an early settler, when pursued by the Indians. It is the fragment of a mountain, in the shape of a half cone, with a very narrow base, which rises from the banks of the Ca- pon to the height of about 500 feet, and presents a sublime and majestic appear- ance. Caudi/s Cafile, as also the Tea- Ta- ble, and the Haoiging Rocks, mentioned be- low, may all be visited from the Capon Springs. The Tea- yaWe is about 10 miles from Can ly's Castle, in a deep, rugged glen three or four miles east of the Capon. It is about four feet in height, and the same in diameter. From the top issues a clear stream of water, which flows over the brim on all sides, and forms a fountain of exquisite beauty. The Hanging Rocks are about four miles north of Romney. There the Wappatomka River has cut its way through the mountain of about 500 feet in height. The boldness of the rocks and the wildness of the scene surprise the beholder. Tradition makes it the scene of a bloody battle between the Delaware and Catawba Indians. 343 North Cakolina.] NORTH CAROLINA. [North Cakoljna. I^OETH CAEOLIITA. Immediately south of Virginia, and easily accessible either by laud or water, lies North Carolina, also one of the original Thirteen States of the American Confederacy. It lies between 33° 53' and 36° 33' N. latitude, and between '75° 25' and 84° 30' W. longitude, and in- cludes an area of 50,704 square miles, or 32,450,560 acres. It is bounded on the east and southeast by the Atlantic; on the south by South Carolina and Geor- gia; and northwest by Tennessee, from ■which it is separated by the Appalachian Mountains. The history of the region does not pre- sent many very brilliant points, although attempts to colonize it were made at a very early day — as long ago as 1585-'89, by Sir Walter Raleigh — and though the people were engaged like their neigh- bors, in bloody struggles with the Indian tribes. The first permanent settlement was made in 1653. Yet the State did memorable service in the Revolution, and especially in being the first publicly and solemnly to renounce allegiance to the British crown, which she did in the famous Mecklenburg Declaration of Inde- pendence, May 20, 1*7 '75 — more than a year before the similar formal assertion of the other States. On the 20th of May, 1861, the 86th anniversary of the Meck- lenburg Declaration of Independence, the Ordinance of Secession was passed. Mili- tary operations were immediately com- menced ; Federal forts, mint, and arsenal seized, and by June 15th a force of 20,- 000 volunteers had been raised for the service of the Confederacy. During the memorable campaigns toward the close of the rebellion, this State was the scene of many a bloody battle. The naval bombardment and final capture of Fort Fisher, followed as it was by the occupa- 344 tion of Wilmington, Petersburg, and Richmond, formed one of the most bril- liant as well as decisive events of the whole war. In picturesque attraction the State is popularly considered to be wholly desti- tute — an impression which results from an erroneous estimate of her tojjography, which travellers in the course of years have made, from the uninteresting forest travel in the eastern portion, traversed by the great railway thoroughfares from the Northern to the Southern States ; the only highway until within very late years, and to this day the only one very much in use. The eastern part of North Caro- lina, stretching sixty miles inland, is a vast plain, sandy, and overrun with interminable forests of pine. Yet this wilderness is not without points and im- pressions of interest to the tourist, more particularly when it is broken, as it often is, by great stretches of dank marsh, sometimes opening into mystical-looking lakes, as on the Little Dismal Swamp, lying between Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds, and on the Great Dismal Swamp, which the State shares with Virginia. The staple productions of the " piney woods country," as it is called, are tar, pitch, and turpentine. The coast, too, of North Carolina, is one of the most celebrated on the western borders of the Atlantic — the one most watched and feared by mariners and all voyagers, that upon which the dreaded Capes Hatteras, Lookout, and Fear are found. While the innumerable bays, shoals, and islands are thus cautious- ly avoided by the passing mariner, they are as eagerly sought by the fisherman and the sportsman. Immense quantities of shad, and herring, and other fish, are taken here, and the estuaries of the rivers and the bavs are among the favorite re- North Carolina.] NORTH CAROLINA. [Raleigh. sorts of wild fowl of every species, mak- ing this coast scarcely less attractive to the sportsman than is the Chesapeake Bay and the shores of Long Island. The level region extends about 60 miles from the coast, and is succeeded by the hilly country in the centre, which in turn gives place to the mountainous re- gion of the west. This section, when it comes to be better known, as the railways now approaching it from all sides promise that it soon will be, will place the State in public estimation among the most strikingly picturesque portions of the Union. The two great ridges of the Al- leghanies traverse this I'egion, some of their peaks rising to the noblest heights, and one of them (Mount Mitchell) reach- ing a greater altitude than any summit east of the Rocky Mountains. Wild brooks innumerable and of the richest beauty, water-falls, and lovely valleys, are found in this yet almost unknown land. Mineral products of great variety and value are found in North Carolina, as in the neighboring mountain districts of South Carolina and Georgia. Until the discovery of the auriferous lands of Cali- fornia, this was the most abundant gold tract in the United States. The mines here of this monarch of metals have been profitably worked for many years. At the branch mint in Charlotte, in the min- ing region, gold was coined, between and including the years 1838 and 1853, to the value of no less than $3,'790,033 ; the highest annual product being $396, 734, in the year 1852. " The copper lands of the State," says Professor Jackson, " are unparalleled in richness. Coal, too, both bituminous and anthracite, is found here in great abundance and of the finest quality. Iron ore also exists throughout the mountain districts. Limestone and freestone may be had in inexhaustible supply. Marl is abundant in all the counties on the coast, and silver, lead, manganese, salt, and gypsum, have been discovered." The rivers of North Carolina have no very marked picturesque character, ex- cept the mountain streams in the west, which are almost inaccessilile. The greater number of the rivers run from 200 to 400 miles, in a southeast direction, through the State, to the Atlantic. A few small streams empty into the Tennessee. The Roanoke and the Chowan extend from Virginia to Albemarle Sound. The Cape Fear River traverses the State and enters the sea near the southern extremity of the State. Travellers by the old steam- boat route from Wilmington to Charles- ton will remember the passage of this river from the former place, 20 miles to its mouth at Smithville. The Neuse and the famous Tar River come from the north to Pamlico Sound. The Yad- kin and the Catawba enter South Caroli- na, and are there called, one the Great Pedee, and the other the Wateree. These and the other rivers of this State are so greatly obstructed at their mouths by sand-banks, and above by rapids and falls, that their waters are not navigable for any great distance, or by any other than small craft. Vessels drawing ten or twelve feet of water ascend the Cape Fear River as far as Wilmington, and light- draught steamboats go to Fayetteville. Steamboats sail up the Neuse 120 miles to Waynesboro, up the Tar 100 miles to Tarborough, up the Roanoke 120 miles to Halifax, and up the Chowan '75 miles. The State is divided into 86 counties, and contained in 1860 a population of nearly one million. Raleigh, near the Neuse River, is the capital of the State ; and Wilmington, 20 miles from the mouth of the Cape Fear River, is its chief commer- cial city. Maleig-la^ Hotel, Yarborough, 286 miles from Washington, is reached from Richmond, Va., via Weldon, and thence by the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, 97 miles. It is the capital of the State, and is beautifully situated four miles west of the Neuse River, a little northeast of the centre of the State. The seat of . Government was located here in 1*788, and named after Sir Walter Raleigh. Union Square is an open area of ten acres, occupying a centre, on the sides of which are the principal streets. The State House, which is on this square, is one of the most imposing capitols of the United States. It is built of gran- ite, after the model of the Parthenon, with massive columns and a grand dome, and cost half a million dollars, equal at the present time to nearly twice that sum. 345 Wilmington.] NORTH CAROLINA. [ClIAIlI.OTTK, The former State House was destroyed oy fire in 1831, and with it the celebrated statue of Washington by Canova. A destructive fire on the 'Zth of January, 1831, laid a gi-eat partion of the city in aslies. The State Lunatic Asylum, and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, are both located here. Popula- tion 5,000. "%¥'el4lOBi, Hotel, GoucKs, is situ- ated on the Roanoke River, at the head of steamboat navigation, 95 miles north- east of Raleigh. It is an important rail- read centre, and a place of considerable trade. 45©Iilstsor©', in Wayne County, is situated near the Neuse River, at the point where it is crossed by the Wilming- ton and Weldon Railway, 50 miles south- east of Raleigh. The Neuse is navigable to this point three-fourths of the year. The city has immediate railroad connec- tion with roads north and south. It was occupied by the Federal forces in March, 1865. It has had a very rapid growth. The first house was erected in 1841, the present population exceeds 3,500. The Granger House has good accommodation for travellers. Ne^vlses-m, a pleasant old town of about 5,000 inhabitants, is at the conflu- ence of the Neuse and the Trent Rivers, midway on the Atlantic line of the State, 50 miles above Pamlico Sound. It is on the line of the Atlantic and North Caro- lina Railvi^ay, which extends from Golds- boro' to Morehead City, opposite Beau- fort. Distance from Goldsboro', 59 miles ; from Morehead City, 86 miles. This place was attacked and captured during the late war by the forces imder General Burnside, March 14, 1861, after a sharp engagement of four hours. lSeaiilOT"t is at the mouth of New- port River, 168 miles east-southeast of Raleigh, and 11 miles northwest of Cape Lookout. The harbor, the best in the State, was much frequented by the several naval expeditions fitted out against Fort Fisher, Wilmington, and other points on the coast. Fort Macon, at the entrance to the harbor, is worthy a visit. The beach in the vicinity affords fine bathing. "WifiMiirngtoaa, the largest and the 346 chief commercial city of North Carolina, is in the southeastern extremity of the State, upon the Cape Fear River, 20 mileo from the sea, 135 miles southeast of Raleigh, and 162 from Weldon. It was originally called Newton, and was named Wilmington after the English nobleman of that name, to whose patronage Governor Johnston was indebted for his office. It offers, however, no very great attractions to the traveller in quest of the pictu: esque, though 'it played a part in thi drama of the Revolution. Major. Crai^ took possession of the town in January^ 1781, and occupied it until the surrender of Cornwallis. It fell into the possession of the combined miUtary and naval Union forces, February 22, 1865. It has been twice visited by fire, first in 1819, and last upon the evacuation of the rebel troops in 1865. It has several fine pub- lic buildings, a theatre, three newspapers, but no good hotel. Population 10,000. Steamships ply weekly to New York; daily communication by rail with Rich- mond and Charleston, S. C. ForU Fish- er and Casivell, and the village of Smith- viUe, at the mouth of the Cape Fear River, will interest the visitor. The first- named work withstood the most terrific bombardment of the war through two attacks, but was finally captured with the aid of the land forces under General Terry, Feburary 15th, 1865, after a most gallant defence. l^'ayettcville is at the head of navigation on Cape Fear River, 60 miles south of Raleigh, and 100 miles above Wilmington. Reached at present on plank roads from Raleigh, and from the Wilmington and Weldon Railway. Pre- vious to the war it was a thriving city of 8,000 inhabitants. Here General Sher- man halted his army from the 12th to the 15th of March, 1865, previous to cross- ing the river to Goldsboro'. The arsenal and other important buildings were de- stroyed. daaa°lof.te.— Hotel, Mansion House. This is a thriving town on Sugar Creek, 158 miles west-southwest of Raleigh. Distant from Charleston, 237 miles ; from Columbia, S. C, 109 miles. A plank road runs 120 miles to Fayettcville, on Cape Fear River. The town lies in the midst of ?9l fli The Mountain Region.] NORTH CAROLINA. [The Mountain Resign. the gold region of the State, and is the seat of a United States branch mint. Some interesting historical memories are awak- ened at Charlotte. It was here that the patriots of Mecklenburg County assem- bled in convention, in 1775, and boldly passed a series of resolutions, declaring themselves independent of the British Crown, thus anticipating by a year the immortal Declaration of "76. The British troops occupied the tovm in 1780, and for II little while it was the headquarters of the American forces. Here General Greene took command of the Southern army from General Gates, fifty days after the departure of Cornwallis. Battle of Guilford Court Hoicse. — The scene of this interesting event in the history of the American Revolution is in the County of Guilford, in the northwestern part of the State. THE MOUNTAIN- EEGION. To reach the mountain region of North Carolina from the north, follow the great southern route from Washington, via the Orange and Alexandria, Virginia and Ten- nessee, and the East Tennessee and Vir- ginia Railway, via Lynchburg to Bristol. From Charleston, S. C, take the South Carolina Railway to Spartanburg, and thence by stage to Asheville ; or railway lines through from Charleston, via Colum- bia, S. C, and Charlotte, N. C., to Salis- bury, on the North Carolina Central route, and thence to Catawba, Morganton, and Asheville. The Swannonoa Gap is a magnificent mountain pass, between Ashe- ville and Morganton. The Falls of the Catawba are hard by. The Hickory Nut Gap is another grand cleft in the giant hills, rich in wonderful pictures of preci- pices and cascades. Black Mountain, 20 miles northeast of Asheville, is a semi- circular mass of land, about 20 miles in length, deriving its name from the dark- green foliage of the balsam fir-trees (vhich line its top and sides. Clingman's and Mitchell's Peaks, the former 6,941, and the latter 6,732 feet high, are the most elevated points east of the Rocky Mountain ranges. The scene from either ^uinmit is one of surpassing grandeur. Pilot Mountain, in Burke County, is a bold peak, almost isolated in the midst of a comparatively level region. In the olden time it was the landmark of the Judians in their forest wanderings ; hence its present name. The HaivFs Bill, ia Burke County, is a stupendous projecting cliff, looking down 1,500 feet upon the waters of a rushing river. The Table Bock, a few miles below the Hawk's Bill, rises cone-shaped, 2,500 feet above the valley of the Catawba River. The Ginger Cake Bock, also in Burke County, is a singular pile, upon the summit of the Ginger Cake Mountain. It is a natural stone structure, in the form of an invert- ed pyramid, 29 feet in height. It is crowned with a slab, 32 feet long and two feet thick, which projects half its length beyond the edge of the pyramid upon which it is so strangely poised. Though seeming just ready to fall, noth- ing could be more secure. A fine view down the dark ravine below is command- ed at this point. The French Broad Biver, in its wild mountain course of 40 miles or more, from Asheville to the Tennessee line, abounds in admirable scenes. It is a rapid stream, and in all its course lies deep down in mountain gorges — now foaming over its rocky path- way, and now sleeping, sullen and dark, at the base of huge precipitous cliffs. A fine highway follows its banks, and often trespasses upon its waters, as it is crowd- ed by the overhanging cliffs. Near the Tennessee boundary, and close by the Warm Springs, this road lies in the shadow of the bold mountain precipices known as the Painted Rocks and the Chimneys. The Painted Bocks have a perpendicular elevation of between 200 and 300 feet. Their name is derived from the Indian pictures yet to be seen upon them. The Chimneys are lofty cliffs, broken at their summits into detach- ed piles of rock, bearing much the like- ness of colossal chimneys, a fancy great- ly improved by the fire-place looking re- cesses at their base, and which serve as turnouts in the narrow causeway. The picture embracing the angle in the river, beyond the Chimney Rocks, is especially fine. The Indian name of the French Broad is TseRca. Under this title Mr. W. Gilmore Simms has woven into beautiful 3i7 The Mouxtais Eegiox.] NORTH CAROLINA. [The MorxTAiN Regi Terse a charming legend of the river. " The tradition of the Cherokees," he says, " asserts the existence of a siren in the French Broad, who implores the hunter to the stream, and strangles him in her embrace, or so infects him with Bome mortal disease, that he invariaVjly 348 perishes." The Warm Springs, acroM' the river from the vicinage of the Painted Rocks, is a very pleasant and popular summer resort. The excellent hotel here occupies a fine plateau, very grateful to the sight, in its contrast with the rugged character of the wild landscape around. I I South Cakolina.] SOUTH CAEOLINA. [South Carolina. SOUTH CAEOLINA. South Carolina is one of the most in- teresting States in tlie Union, in its legen- daiy and historical stoi\y, in its social characteristics, and in its physical aspect. Upon its settlement by the English, in 1670, John Locke, the fomo^is lAiloso- pher, framed a constitution for the young colony, after the pattern of that of Plato's Model Republic. The first settlement was at Port Royal. Later (1690), the na- tive poetic humor of the people received a new stimulus from the influx of French Huguenots, driven from their own land by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. outh Carolina remained a proprietary ovcrnment until 1719, when it became a •oyal colony. The chivalric spirit of the cople was fostered by the wars which hey shared with the Georgians, under Oglethorpe, against the Spaniards in Plor- da, and l^y the gallant struggles in which hey were perpetually involved with the f emassec and other Indian tribes. Next ame the long and painful trial of the ievolutiou, in which these resolute peo- )le were among the first and most ardent o take up arms in the cause of right — he most persistent and self-sacrificing in he prosecution of the contest, under every '( hufl", and the last to leave the bloody lul devastating fight. The colony took ,u active part in exciting and carrying on lie revolt of the colonies, and furnished pwards of 6,000 troops to the Federal i)rces. Among the conspicuous fights hich took place v^ithin the limits of the tate, were those at Fort Moultrie, harleston, Camden, King's Mountain, iUtaw Springs, and Cowpens. The State ;is occupied by the British during the leater part of 1780-'81. South Carolina has gone further than ly other State in asserting the rights id powers of the sovereign States in op- position to the Federal Government, and was the first to rise in rebellion after the election of Mr. Lincoln to the Pi-esidency, in 1860. The Ordinance of Secession was passed December 20, 1860, and on February 18, 1865, the city of Charleston was occupied by the United States sol- diers, and the national flag again floated over the city and Fort Sumter. The na-tural aspect of the Palmetto State is exceedingly varied. On the seaboard and the south broad savannas, and deep, dank lagunes, covered with teeming fields of rice, and fruitful in a thousand changes of tropical vegetation ; in the middle dis- tricts great undulating meadows, over- spread with the luxuriant maize, or white with snowy carpetings of cotton ; and, again, to the northward, bold mountain ranges, valleys, and waterfalls. The poet has thus recorded its attractions : " The sunny land, the snnny land, wliere Naturci lias displayed Herfairest works, with lavish hand, in hill, in vale, and s:lade ; Her streams flow on in melodj-, through fair and Iruitlul plains ; And, from the moimtains to the sea, with beauty plenty reigns." Among the rivers of South Carolina, the Savannah, Great Pedee, the Santee and its affluents, the Congaree and Wat- erce, Saluda and Broad Rivers, Edisto and Combahee, together aflbrding an in- land navigation of 2,400 miles, are the most important. Formerly the most popidar resorts for tourists through the State, were Table Mountain and Table Rock, Caasar's Head, and Glenn's Spring. Owing to the inter- ruption to travel, caused by the war, and the lack of accommodation, the number of visitors to these points has greatly diminished. South Carolina is divided into 349 South Cauolina.] SOUTH CAROLINA. [CllAlU.KSTON. 30 Districts, and contained a white pop- ulation, in 1860, of 291,300. Railways. — The South Carolina Rail- way traverses the lower portion of the State, 137 miles from Charleston to Au- gusta, Georgia. This road was partially destroyed by General Sherman's forces, and has not yet been reopened to travel. The Columbia Branch extends 66 miles from Branchville, midway on the South Carolina Railway to Columbia, the capi- tal of the State. The Northeastern. Rail- way from Charleston, 102 miles to Flor- ence, where it connects with the Cheraw and Darlington Railway, 40 miles to Cheraw. The Charlotte and South Caro- lina Railway extends northward, through the mountain region, 105 miles, from Co- lumbia to Charlotte, N. C. The principal places passed are Winchester and. Chester. At Chester a railroad diverges for York- ville. The Wilmington and Manchester ex- tends 172 miles from Kingsville, Columbia Branch of South Carolina road. Stations : Kingsville to Wateree Junction, 9 miles (Camden Branch road diverges here) ; Manchester, 15; Sumterville, 25; Mays- ville, 34 ; Lynchburg, 43 ; Timmonsville, 52 ; Florence, 64 (Northeastern road for Charleston, and the Cheraw and Darling- ton, for Cheraw, diverge here); Mar's Bluffs, 70; Pedee, 76; Marion, 85; Mullen's, 72; Nichol's, 99; Pine Bluff, 108; Grist's, 118; WhitesviUe, 127; Flemington, 137; Maxwell's, 144; Brinkley's, 154 ; Wilmington, 171. The Camden Branch extends 37 miles from Kingsville — Stations : Kingsville to Clarkson's, 4 miles ; Manchester Junction, 9; Middleton, 11; Claremoht, 18; Hopkins, 28; Camden, 37 miles. The Greenville and Columbia Railway ex- tends northwest, via Newberry C. H., 143 miles from Columbia to Greenville, with branches and connecting lines to Spartan- burg, Laurensville, Abbeville, and Ander- son. The Spartanburg and Union Rail- way deflects at Alston, from the Greenville and Columbia Railway, 55 mUes north- west of Columbia. The Laurens road extends 32 miles from Newberry C. H. (Greenville and Columbia Railway) to Laurensville. The Abbeville Branch (Greenville and Columbia Road) deflects at Cokesbury, 1 9 miles to Abbeville. The 350 Anderson Branch (Greenville and ("(ilum- bia Road) deflects at Belton, 10 miles to Anderson. From this point, and from Spartanburg, other roads are in progress to connect with the railway routes of North CaroUna and Tennessee. The Charleston and Savannah Railway, which was the main highway of travel between these cities previous to the war, has not yet been repaired. Communication is made by steamer daily. Route from New York, Etc. j From New York daily, by railway, t«| fl Philadelphia., Baltimore, Washingtori ^ City, Fredericksburg, and Richmond, Va., Wcldon and Wilmington, N. C. ; thence by Wilmington and Manchester Railway to Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch of the South Carolina Road ; or more ia,, Hotel, Nicker soil's. Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, 354 is 130 miles from Charleston, by the South Carolina Railway and the Columbia Branch. It is connected by railway with the gTeat route from New York to New Orleans, with Augusta, Georgia, and with Camden, Cheraw, and most of the in- terior and mountain villages of the State. It is a beautiful city, situated on the blulFs of the Congaree, a few miles below the charming falls of that ilver, near the confluence of the Saluda and Broad Riv- ers, famous for its delightfully shaded streets, its wonderful flower gardens, and the model plantations in its vicinity. Nothing can be more inviting than the walks and drives in the neighborhood. The Capitol, 170 feet long and 60 wide, huiltof marble, is one of the handsomest buildings in the United States. It cost nearly three millions of dollars, and was fortunately spared during the burning of the city on its occupation by General Sherman's forces. The fire was set by the soldiers of General Wade Hampton's command. The South Carolina College, founded in 1804, is a prosperous institution, withfroni 150 to 200 students. It had a library of 17,000 volumes previous to the war. The Insane Asylum is an object of great inter- est. Here also is the theological college of the Presbyterian Church, and a Roman Catholic establishment. The city was occupied by General Sherman's forces February IT, 1865. Cfaiaasleaft, 33 miles from Columbia, the capital, and 142 miles from Charles- ton. This city is situated on the Wa- teree River, navigable to this point by steamboats. Camden is a place of great historic interest. A battle was fought near by, August, 1780, betv^een the Amer- cans, under General Gates, and the Brit- ish, under Lord Cornwallis ; and another in April, 1781, between General Greene and Lord Rawdon. The scene of the lat- ter struggle is the southeastern slope of Hobkirk's Hill, now called KirkwooJ, a beautiful summer suburb of the old town. Upon the green, in front of the Presbyterian Church, on De Kalb Street, there is a monument over the grave of Baron De Kalb, who fell in the battle of August, 1 780, at Camden. The cornef stone was laid in 1825, by Lafayette. The headquarters of Cornwallis, to be seen here, was a fine old building now in ruins the country is dotted. The negroes Simms has a particular fondness for the can bear the summer heats of the I fragrant grape-vine, depending in such 355 1 4tU't>r4m- t»-f'h,i'l llv. Moiirl Hi>iis'- 6 Miiin tiiiaril //I'll."- 7X liin'/iriii yp-Hall titvl/t/t /7iiirlt\'(i'ri /.fW.'V'- tiitr fliiiif.- tJci'^'S- fiiriifi/tii ri/i (7i.ir(i:ia, Hotel, Mckerson's. Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, 354 i The headquarters of Cornwallis, to be . here, was a fine old building now in n c liNGKBURG.] SOUTH CAROLINA. [Beaufort. I the Market House there is a ivell-exe- ;ecl metallic eflSgy, 10 feet high, of King i glar, a most famous chieftain of the ';aw):)as. Mr. Simms has made this In- n king the theme of one of his fine le- Ids. It contains an arsenal, academy, |ory, bank, and four churches. Popu- ijou 1,600. |>a"SMag'el>?iii'e; is on the line of the th Carolina (Columbia branch) Rail- 97 miles from Charleston, 44 'fi Columbia, and 11 from Branchville. ts a spot of historic interest, near the ks of the Edisto lliver. It formed a in the chain of military posts estab- ;d by the British after the fall of ilestou. Among the old relics here, ,r 3ome remains of the works erected by don, near the Edisto, and the old :t-House, which bears traces, in the le of bullet marks, of the assault e by Sumter, in 1*781. General Sher- 's forces occupied the town, February .865, preparatory to their march on mbia. TtitaTV Spipisig-s, interesting as cene of the famous battle of Eutaw, out 40 miles below Orangeburg, and liles northwest of Charleston. Fort '■, a relic of the Revolution, stands ,[. , high terrace ground, near the Bull's le 1 Neck, on the Congaree, just above leeting with the Wateree, six miles Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch 3 North Carolina Railway. <|aera-*v, near the northern line of heitate, is pleasantly situated on the . Pedee River, at the head of steam ation, 162 miles from Charleston and lies from Columbia. 1 3 Seaboard and Loviland towns, vil- and plantations of South Carolina 3e reached by the steamboats which ptween Charleston and Savannah, or lige or carriage from the line of rail- The traveller will not see them in own peculiar beauty, because the e in summer time, when the won- M^l tropical vegetation covers the rank ^1 ".a not to be braved by the unac- lll The planters themselves, in- ij jve with their families, at this :*-ither to the uplands or to the nidy pine-covered elevations with lie country is dotted. The negroes an bear the summer heats of the lowlands without ill results. In the winter, however, life may easily be made enjoyable in the villages here, imder the balmiest and most healthful of tempera- tures, and in the midst of genial and re- fined society. ISeaiilort, in a district of the same name, is pleasantly situated on Port Royal River, 16 miles from the sea, and about 50 miles west-southwest of Charles- ton. It aifords a delightful summer residence, and has daily communication by steamer with the cities of Charleston and Savannah. It contains an arsenal, a seminary, bank, and several churches. The journey on the South Carolina Rail- way will give the traveller some inkling of the lowland features of the Southern landscape, though not in its strongest or most interesting character — since much of the way is through extensive pine forests, which makes the rhyming sneer bestowed upon this pai't of the country not altogether inapt : " Where to the north, pine-trees in prospect rise ; Where to the east, pine-treea assail the slcics ; Where to the west, pine-trees obstruct the view ; Where to the south, pine-trees forever grew ! " But a second glimpse will reveal, amidst all these " pine-trees," the tovv^er- ing cypress, with its foliage of fringe and its garlands of moss — the waxen bay-leaf, the rank laurel, and the clustering ivy ; and, if you are watchful, you may catch, in the rapid transit of the cars through the swamps, glimpses of almost intermin- able cathedral aisles of cypress and vine, sv/eeping through the deeper parts of the boundless lagoons. But a railroad glimpse, and especially at the speed with which you travel here, is quite insufficient for reasonable observation. At Woodlands, a mile only south of Midway, the centre of the road, lived before the war the poet and novelist Simms. Yonder, in that wide and spreading lawn, stood our author's mansion — an old-fashioned brick structure, with massive and strange por- tico. The ranks of orange and I'jva-oak trees which sentinel his castle, are the ob- jects of his tenderest care — true and ardent lover of Nature as he is. Mr. Simms has a particular fondness for the fragrant grape-vine, depending in such 355 LOWLANES.] SOUTH CAROLINA. 1 [LOV.'LAXI fantastic and numberless festoons from the limbs of you venerable tree. It is strong-limbed as a giant, and, but for the grace with which it clings to the old forest-king, would seem to be rather struggling with him for his sceptre, than loyally and lovingly suing for his protec- tion. The vine drops its festoons, one beneath the other, in such a manner that half a dozen persons may find a cozy seat, each over his fellow, for a merry swing. On a dreamy summer eve, you may va- cillate, in these rustic couches, to your heart's content ; one arm thrown round the vine will secure you in your seat, while the hand may- hold the favorite book, and the other pluck the delicious clusters of grapes, which, as you swing, encircle your head hke the wreath upon the brow of Bacchus. If the rays of the setting sun be hot, then the rich and im- penetrable canopy of foliage above you will not prove ungrateful. As affording a most marked and not altogether pleasing contrast to the pic- ture which farm aud domestic life at the South now presents to the stran- ger, we insert the following charac- teristic sketch, by a well-known trav- eller, of a visit to South Carolina, before secession times. " A stroll over Mr. Simms' plantation will give you a pleasant inkling of almost every feat- ure of the Southern lowlands, in nat- ural scenery, social life, and the char- acter and position of the slave popu- lation. You may sleep sweetly and soundly within his hospitable walls, se- cure of a happy day on the morrow, whether the rain holds you prisoner within doors, or the glad sunshine drags you abroad. He will give you a true Southern breakfast, at a very comforta- ble hour, and then furnish you abundant sources of amusement in his well-stocked library, or suffer you to seek it elsewhere, as your fancy listeth. At dinner, you shall not lack good cheer, for either the physical or the intellectual man, and then you may take a pleasant stroll to the quiet banks of the Edisto — watch the raft-men floating lazily down the stream, and interpret as you will the windings and echoes of their boat-horns — or you may muse in the shaded bowers of Tui'- tle Cove, or any of the many other inlets and bayous of the stream. Go flhi you may, you must not fail to peep ii the dark aud solemn swamps. You n; traverse their waters on T«ld bridges decayed and fallen trees ; you may dre; of knight and troubadour, as your < wanders through the Gothic passages cypress, interlacing their branches, t bearing the ever-dependent moss, wh i hangs mournfully, as if weeping ovej desolation and death which brood the fatal precincts. If you fear nd startle the wild-fowl, to disturb thel pent, or to encounter the alligatorJ may enter your skiff, and, sailing ihi^ the openings in the base of the cyp you may penetrate at pleasure, ad bush and brake, into the mystic el bers of these poisonous halls. Mr. Sii' has beautifully described these sol scenes in his 'Southern Passages Pictures : ' "Tis a wild spot, and hath a gloomy look ; The bird sings never merrily in the trees, And the young leaves seem blighted. A growth Spreads poisonously round, with power to With blistering dews, the thoughtless han( dares To penetrate the covert. Cypresses Crowd on the dank, wet earth ; and stretcl length. The cayman — a fit dweller in such homc- Slumhers, half buried in the sedgy grass, Beside the green ooze where he shelters h A whooping crane erects his skeleton fom And shrieks in flight. Two summer-i aroused To apprehension, as they hear his cry. Dash up from the lagoon, with marvellousi Following his guidance. Meetly taufi these, And startled by our rapid, near approach,) The steel-jawed monster, from his grass Crawls slowly to his slimy, green abode, Which straight receives him. Tou beho now, His ridgy back uprising as he speeds, In silence, to the centre of the stream. Whence his head peers alone.' " Rambling, once upon a time, tl the negro quarters of Mr. Simms' ] tion, we amused ourself in studyii varied characters of the slaves, as : in the style of their cabins, the 05 which they kept them, the taste dis in their gardens, etc. ; for every mij all the material and time at his coi j to make himself and his family a fortable as he pleases. The hats c ' WLANDS.] SOUTH CAROLINA. [Lowlands Ife as happy an air as one might desire ; rit palings enclosed them ; the gardens vre full of flowers, and blooming vines imbered over the doors and windows. Ciers, again, had been suffered by the li occupants to fall into sad decay ; no edence of taste or industry was to be s in in their hingeless doors, their fallen fijces, or their weed-grown gardens. Ipse lazy fellows were accustomed even t(But down the shade-trees which had b n kindly planted before their homes, riiier than walk a few yards further for o^er and even better fuel. The more iinstrious of the negroes here, as else- WH-e, employ their leisure hours, which ^1 1 abundant, in the culture of vegetables in raising fowls, which they sell to ;Hr masters, and thus supply themselves the means to purchase many little ries of life. For necessaries they no concern, since they are amply generously provided with all that ''h ■ can require. Others, who will not "h| work for their pin-money, are de- J3nt upon the kindness of their mas- or more frequently upon their inge- at thieving. Many of them sell to master in the morning the produce A I have stolen from him the previous |t. At least, they all manage to their purses filled ; and we were ed that not one, had he occasion or 3 to visit Charleston or Augusta, could readily produce the means to y his expenses. One old woman pointed out to us, who had several '% 3 left the plantation, with permission jl imain away as long as she pleased ; ;r*11 although her absences were some- fa 5 of long continuance, she was too ".q^not to return to a certain and good . Wander how and wither she d, in due time her heart would join lurden of the song : .Oh ! carry me bade to old Virgiany, iif,l ! To old Virginny's shore 1 ' all) ■0 \''hile once visiting some friends in >s,ii,iina, we had the pleasure of witness- He^ he bridal festivities of one of the 5le*VQts of the family, a girl of some EFj^hen years. The occasion was one liiii; and Union Railways, is in the midst of a mineral region, famous for its gold and iron. Here, too, are some celebrated limestone springs. The place is the seat of a University, endowed by Benjamin Wofford, and controlled by the Method- ists ; also of a prosperous Female College. An Asylum for the Deaf, Dumh, and Blind is located here. Within the limitsi of this district is the memorable Revolui tionary battle-field of the Cowpens, locat- ed on the hill-range called the Thicket\ Mountain. The battle was fought Januiv ry 1*7, 1781, and resulted in the defeat of the British under Tarleton. In the oldei time, the cattle were suffered to graz( upon the scene of the contest — whence it: name. "S^oi-Icvillc is situated midwa_\ on the upper boundary of South Car olina, upon an elevated plain whicl forms the dividing ridge between th( Catawba and the Broad Rivers. In th( vicinity there are some valuable sulphui and magnesia waters, to add to the at tractions of winning scenery and roman tic story which the region so abundantly i offers to the tourist. It is right in thi heart of the mountain scenery of thi State. From Charleston the route is b; the South Carolina Railway, and Coluin bia branch to Columbia, thence by th Chailotte road to Chester, and thence, 2 rOKKVII-LE.] SOUTH CAROLINA. [Vicinity, miles, by King's Mountain Railway. The route from the North is by Weldon. ! Twelve miles northeast of Torkville, and little more than a mile south of the North Carolina line, is the battle-field of King^s '(Jlountain. The King's Mountain range jiextends about sixteen miles southward, [sending out lateral sjDurs in various di- jireetions. The scene of the battle is six jmiles from the summit of the hill. A jsimple monument to the memory of Fer- uson and others marks the spot, and on [jthe right there is a large tulip-tree, upon rhich it is said ten tories were hanged. 16 It was a hotly-contested fight, the British loss being 1,105 killed, wounded, and prisoners. It was fought October 7, 1Y80. Crowder\s JTnob, the highest peak of King's Mountain, is about 3,000 feet above the level of the sea. The ilountain Gap, near the Cherokee Ford, the G7'eat Falls of the Catawha, and Rocky Mount, the scene of another of the partisan struggles, and Hanging Rock, where Sumter fought a desperate fight, are also interesting scenes and localities of this hill-region of South Carolina. 361 (jEOItaiA. i GEORGIA. a E O E G I A . This great State, long regarded as the " Empire State " of the South, possesses unrivalled sources of prosperity and wealth ; and though they are as yet only in the dawn of development, the traveller will not hesitate to predict for her a glo- rious future, when he notes the spirit of activity, enterprise, and progress which so markedly distinguishes her from other portions of the South. While Nature is here everywhere most prodigal in means, man is earnest in improving them. Georgia was settled the latest of the " Original Thirteen " States of the Union. She derived her name with her charter from George 11., June 1*732. Her first colony was planted by General Ogle- tliorpe, on the spot where the city of Savannah now stands, in I'/'ZS, sixty- three years after the settlement of South Carolina, and a centui\y behind most of the original colonies. Three years after the arrival of Oglethorpe, Ebeuezer, 25 miles up the Savannah River, was planted by the Germans. Darien, on the sea, was commenced about the same time by a party of Scotch Highlanders. Among the early troubles of the colony was a war with the Spaniards in Florida, each party in turn invading the territory of the other. The people of Georgia took a vigorous part in the Revolutioii, and the State was in possession of the British a portion of that time. The city of Savan- nah was taken by them, December 29, 1778. A bold attempt was made by the combined American and French forces to recapture it, but failed, with the loss to the allies of 1,100 men. The great Cherokee Country, in the upper part of the State, came into the full possession of the whites in 1838, when the Indians were removed to new homes beyond the Mississippi. The sea-coast of Georgia, 362 extending about eighty miles, is very similar in character to that of the Caroli- nas, being lined with fertile islands cut off from the main land by narrow lagoons or sounds. The famous sea-island cotton is grown here ; and wild-fowl are abun- dant in all varieties. Upon the main, rice plantations flourish, with all the semi-tropical vegetation and fruit which we have seen in the ocean district? of South Carolina. Passing northward to the central regions of the State, the cot- ton-fields greet our eyes at every step, until the surface of the country becomes more and more broken and hilly, and, at last, verges upon the great hill-region traversed by the Appalachian or Alle- ghany Mountains. These great ranges oc- cupy all the northern counties, and pre sent to the charmed eye of the tourist scenes of beauty and sublimity not sur- passed in any section of the Union. Rivers. — There are many fine rivers in Georgia ; but, as with the water-courses of the South generally, they are often muddy, and their only beauty is in the rank vegetation of their shores, with here and there a bold sandy bluff. As tire railroad system of the State has not yet- been restored, and many travellers wiD' have occasionally to avail themselves of 'i steamboats as means of reaching points of sojourn in the interior, we propose to give a brief description of the principal of these rivers. The Savannah^ which di- vides the States of Georgia and South Carolina through half their length, has a course, exclusive of its branches, of about 450 miles. The cities of Augusta and Sa- vannah are upon its banks, and it enters the Atlantic 18 miles below the latter place. From June to November it is navigablf for large vessels as far as Savannah, am Georgia.] GEORGIA. [GEOEGflA. for steamboats up to Augusta, a distance of 230 miles from its mouth. The river voyage between these points is a very pleasant one, presenting' to the eye of stranger many picturesque novelties in the cotton-fields which lie along the banks through the upper part of the pas- sage, and in the rich rice plantations be- low. Approaching Savannah, the tourist will be particularly delighted '^vith the mystic glens of the wild swamp reaches, I and with the luxuriant groves of live-oak which shadow the ancient-looking manors of the planters. A few miles above the city of Savannah, he may visit the spot where Whitney iavented and first used his wonderful cotton-gin. The alligator, in times before the war, was often seen sun- ning himself on the shores of the lower waters of the Savannah, being abundant in the contiguous swamps. " When our canoe," says Sir Charles LyeU, in his record of travels in this region, " had proceeded into brackish water, where the iver banks consisted of marsh land, cov- ered with a taU, reed-like grass, we came lose to an alligator, about nine feet long, asking in the sun. Had the day been armer, he would not have allowed us to pproach so near to him, for these rep- lies are much shyer than formerly, since hey have learned to dread the avenging ■ifle of the planter, whose stray hogs and jporting dogs they often devour. About ;en years ago, Mr. Cooper tells us he saw ;wo hundred of them together in St. tfary's River, extremely fearless." Won- lerful stories are told of these creatures, uauy of them much too wondei-ful for Tedence. They are now becoming rare, is one acquainted with their habits ob- erved to me, being probably disturbed )y the violent explosions of gunpowder at he time of the attack on Spanish Fort, ^'hey have been but seldom seen of late. ^ort PuJaslci (see Savannah and vicinity). 'he Oconee River rises in the gold lands f the mountain districts of Georgia, and raverses the State until it meets the >geeehee, and with that river reaches the ea under the name of the Altamaha. lilledgeville, the capital, and Athens, one f the most beautiful places in the State, re on this river. The Ocmul(/ce is avigable for small steamboats to Macon. he Flkd River, in the western part of the State, passes by Lanier, Oglethorpe, and Albany, and uniting with the Chatta- hoochee, at the southwest extremity of the State, forms the Appalachicola. The length of the Flint River is about 300 miles. Its navigable waters extend 250 miles, from the Gulf of Mexico to Albany. The Ohattahoochee is one of the largest and most interesting rivers of Georgia. It pursues a devious way through the gold region westward from the mountains in the northeastern part of the State, and makes the lower half of the dividing line between Georgia and Alabama. At the point where it enters Florida it is joined by the Flint River, and the united waters are thenceforward called the Appalachi- cola. The Chattahoochee is navigable for large steamboats as far up as Columbus, 350 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The principal towns on this river besides Co- lumbus, are Eufaula, West Point, and Fort Gaines. The Ogeechee rises in Green County, flows southeastward, and enters the Atlantic through Ossabaw Sound, 20 miles south of Savannah. Its whole length is estimated at 250 miles. It is navigable for sloops a distance of between 30 and 40 miles. Fort McAllis- ter, on Genesis Point, which commands the entrance to this river, is interesting from the part it played in the defense of the city by General Hardee. It success- fully resisted the attacks of the monitor fleet in January and March 1863, but was finally captured by General Hazen's division of the 15th Corps (Sherman's army), on the 13th December, 1864. Railways. — The railway system of Georgia, embracing upwards of 1,400 miles of railroad, is now so far advanced toward complete restoration, that we venture to give aU the lines, with their branches. The Central Eailwcii/, from Sa- vannah, 190 miles to Macon. ^Stations — Savannah to Eden, 20 miles ; Guyton, 30 Egypt, 40 ; Armenia, 46 ; Halcvondale. 50; Ogeechee, 62; Scarboro', 70 ; Millen '79 (branch road 53 miles to Augusta) Cushingville, 83; Herndon, 90; Speir's 111; Davisboro, 123; Tennille, 134 Oconee, 146; Emmett, 153; Kingston 160; Gordon, 170 (branch to Milledge ville and Eatonton); Griswold, 182; Ma con, 190 miles. Milledgeville and Eaton Railways.] GEORGIA. [Savannah. ion Branch. Stations — Gordon to Wol- scy, 9 miles; Milledgeville, 18; Dennis, 29 ; Eatonton, 38 miles. Macon and Western Railway., from Macon, 103 miles to Atlanta, terminus of Georgia Railway. Stations — Macon Junction, Howard's, 8 miles; Crawford's, 13 miles; Smarr's, 19; Forsyth, 24 ; Collier's, 30 ; Goggin's, Barnesville, 40 ; Milner's, 4*7 ; Thornton's, Griffin, 58 ; Eayette, 65 ; Lovejoy's, Jonesboro', 79 ; Rough and Ready, 90 ; East Point, 95 ; Atlanta, 103 miles. The Georgia Raihvay, from Augusta, 171 miles to Atlanta, passing through Belair, Berzelia, Bearing, Thomson, Camak, Bar- nett, Crawfordsville, Union Point, Greens- boro', Oconee, Buckhead, Madison, Rut- ledge, Social Circle, Covington, Conyer's, Lithonia, Stone Mountain, and Decatur. A branch line, 10 miles long, extends from Camak to Warrenton, the capital of Warren County; another of 18 miles from Barnett to Washington, the capital of V>''ilkes County ; another from Union Point to Athens, the capital of Clarke County. The road (the Georgia) connects at Augusta with the South Carolina road for Charleston and Savannah. The West- ern and Atlantic Road, from Atlanta, 136 miles, northward to Chattanooga, Tennes- see. Stations — Atlanta to Vining's, 8 miles ; Marietta, 20 ; Acworth, 35 ; AUa- toona, 40; Cartersville, 4*7; Cass, 52; Kingston, 59 ; Adairsville, 69 ; Calhoun, '78 ; Resaca, 84; Tilton, 91 ; Dalton, 100 ; Tunnel Hill, 107 ; Ringgold, 115; Chick- amauga, 128 ; Boyce, 133 ; Chattanooga, 136 miles. The Rome Railway deflects from the Western and Atlantic at Kings- ton, and extends 20 miles to Rome. The Atlanta and West Point Railway extends from Atlanta, 87 miles to West Point, whence it is continued by the Montgomery and West Point Railway, 88 miles to Mont- gomery, Alabama. Stations — Atlanta to East Point, 6 miles ; Fairburn, 18 ; Pal- metto, 25 ; Newnan, 40 ; Grantville, 52 ; Hogansville, 59 ; Lagrange, 72 ; Long Cane, 78 ; West Point, 87 miles. The Southwestern and Muscogee Railway, from Macon, terminus of Central road, 99 miles, to Columbus. Stations — Macon to Eche- connee, 12 miles ; Powersville, 21 ; Fort Valley, 28 ; Everett's, 85 ; Reynolds', 41 ; Butler, 60 ; Columbus, 99 miles. The Southwestern, from Macon to Fort Val- 364 ley, 28 miles ; to Marshallville, 7 ; Win- chester, 9 ; Oglethorpe, 21 ; Anderson, 30 ; Americus, 41 ; Sumter, 51 ; Albany, 76 miles (branch to Eufaula). The Sa- vannah, Albany, and Gulf Road vi'iW con- nect Savannah and Tallahassee, Florida. It extends at present from Savannah, 189 miles, to Boston, from which point a line of stages runs to Tallahassee and other places in Florida. SAVANNAH. From New York by steamer ; 100 miles from Charleston. Hotels. — The principal hotels of Sar ' vannah are — the Pulaski House, on Bryan Street, Johnson Square ; the MarshaU House, in Broughton Street, and the Scriven House. The last two have been lately refurnished. Savannah, the largest city of Georgia, with a population of about 30,000, is upon the south bank of the Savannah River, 18 miles from the sea. Its site is a sandy terrace, some 40 feet above low- water mark. It is regularly built, with streets so wide and so unpaved, so densely shaded with trees, and so full of little parks, that, but for the extent and elegance of its public edifices, it might seem to be an overgrown village, or a score of villages consolidated in one. There arc no less than twenty-four squares scat- tered through the city, and most of the streets are lined with the fragrant flower- ing China-tree, or the Pride of India, and the magnolia, while some of them, as Broad and Bay Streets, have each four grand rows of trees, there being a double carriage-way, with broad walks on the outsides, and a promenade between. These numerous shady avenues have gained for it the title of the " Forest City" of the South. Savannah was founded by General James Oglethorpe, in 1732. It was occupied, in 1778, by the British, and came back into the posses- sion of the Americans in 1783. But few Revolutionary remains are now to be seen, the city having overgrowi\ most of them. Batteries, ramparts, and redoubts have given place to the more pleasant sights of fragrant gardens and shady parks. Satannah.] GEORGIA. [Savannah. It has suffered severely from the ravages of !8re,firstin 1'796, again in 1820, and last in January 28, 1865. The aggregate amount pf property destroyed at these times ex- eeded $6,000,000. /as/jer's Spring, the scene of a brave and famous exploit of ;he old war time, may yet be visited, 't lies near • the Augusta road, two niles and a half from the westward )f Savannah. The spring is a foun- ain of purest water, in the midst of a narshy spot, covered with rank shrub- bery, at the edge of a forest of oak ilnd pine trees. The interest of the place ^ in its association only. Sergeant New- on Jasper, aided only by one companion, atched by this spring for the passage of party of American prisoners under a ritish guard of eight men, whom they oldly and successfully assailed, restoring le captives to their country and friends, memory of this action. Sergeant Jas- er's name has been given to one of the ublic parks of the city. Among the ost attractive places of public resort is hrsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street. fountain, the design of which is taken om the Crystal Palace fountain at Sy- 3uham, England, adorns the centre of lis pretty ground. It is of elaborate orkmanship, and cost -$6,500. In John- )n or Monument Square, opposite the ulaski House, there is a fine Doric obe- 3k erected to the memories of Generals reene and Pulaski, the corner-stone of hich was laid by Lafayette during his sit in 1825. It is a marble shaft, 53 et in height. The base of the pedestal 10 feet 4 inches by 6 feet 8 inches, and elevation is about 12 feet. The ;edle which surmounts the pedestal is 37 et high. Another and very elegant ructure has since been built (1853) in lippewa Square to the memory of Pu- 3ki. This general fell gallantly during I attack upon the city, while it was oc- pied by the British in the year lY'/O. le monument appropriately covers the ot where Pulaski fell. It is one of the )st chaste and perfect specimens of mumental architecture in the United ites. The shaft is of the purest marble d the steps are pUnths of granite. It is i feet high, and surmounted by an ex- (isitely carved statue of Liberty holding Ip national banner. The arms of Georgia and Poland are intertwined on the cor- nice of two sides of the monument. It was constructed by Launitz, of New York, at a cost of $22,000 in gold. Among the public buildings of note in Savannah are the new Custom House, corner of Bull and Bay Streets ; the City Exchange, in front of which General Sherman reviewed his army, January 1, 1865; the Court House, Tlieatre, Armory, Arsenal, and Jail. St. Andrew's Hall and the ChatJiam Academy are conspicu- ous buildings. From the tower of .the Exchange the best view of the city and neighborhood is to be had. Among the church edifices the Episco- pal Churches of St. JoliiUs and Chrisfs are the most striking. The lofty spire of the Independent Presbyterian Church is much and deservedly admired. This building is built of Quincy granite, and cost $80,- 000. Trinity Church stands on St. James' Square, near the spot where John Wesley delivered his famous sermons. The State Historical Society has a fine library. The principal charitable institutions are — the Orphan Asylum, the Union Society^ originally established by Whitefield, the Hibernian and Seaman's Friend Socie- ties, the Georgia Infirmary, the Savannah Hospital, and the Savannah Free School. The building on the northeast corner of Bull and Broughton Streets, known as the Masonic Hall, is interesting to the visitor as the place where the Ordinance of Secession was passed, January 21, 1861. Four years after (December 28, 1864), a meeting of citizens was held in the same apartment to commemorate the triumph of the Union arms. The main apartment is now (1866) used as a bil- liard-room. Among the interesting rel- ics of the past history of Savannah are — the building in which the colonial Legislature held it^ sessions, on South Broad Street, just east of Drayton ; and the mansion of the Governor of Georgia during the occupation of the city by the British, which stands on Broughton Street. Savannah is one of the healthiest of the Southern cities, and its climate is constantly improving, owing, it is said, to the improved manner of cultivating the great rice lands in the neighborhood. No pleasanter winter home for invahds or others can be found ; for, to the balmy 365 Vicinity.] GEORGIA. climate of the region, and every appli- ance of physical comfort, there are super- added extraordinary social attractions in the cultivated manners and the hospita- ble hearts of the people. It is well sup- plied with good water brought from the Savannah Elver, west of the Ogeechee. It was occupied by the Federal forces, under General Sherman, on the morning of De- cember 21, 1864. The fortifications, which constituted the so-called defences of the city, are six miles in extent, and are easily reached from the centre of the city. Five daily newspapers are published here. VICINITY. The vicinage of Savannah, though flat, is exceedingly picturesque along the many pleasant drives, and by the banks of the river and its tributary brooks. Every- where are noble avenues lined with live-oaks, the bay, the magnolia, tire orange, and a hundred other beautiful evergreen trees, shrubs, -and vines. The Cemetery of £onaventure, three miles distant, on the Warsaw Eiver, is a wonderful place. It was originally a pri- vate estate, laid out in broad avenues, which cross each other. These avenues are now grand forest aisles, lined with live- oaks of immense size ; their dense leafage mingling overhead, and the huge lateral branches trailing upon the ground with their own and the superadded weight of the heavy festoons of the pendent Span- ish moss. A more beautiful or more sol- emn home for the dead, than in the shades of these green forest aisles, cannot well be imagined. The endless cypx-ess groves of the " silent cities " by the Bos- phorus are not more impressive than the intricate web of these stUl forest walks. Bonaventure has thus been sketched by Btar-light : ■• " Along a comdor I tread, High overarched by ancient trees, Where, like a tapestry o'erhead, The gray moss floats upon the "breeze : A wavy breeze which kissed to-day Tallulah's falls of flashing foam, And sported in Toccoa's spray — Brings music Irom its mountain home. "The clouds are floating o'er the sky, And cast at times a litful gloom, As o'er our hearts dark memories fly, Cast deeper shades on Tatnall's tomb ; 366 • While glimmering onward to the sea, With searco a rippling wave at play, A line of silver thi-ough the lea, The river stretches i'ar away." " Tatnall's tomb," a family vault of the former possessors of these grounds, stands near the centre of the cemetery. Fort Pulaski^ on Cockspur Island, near Tybee Island, situate on the south side of the entrance to Savannah River, was the scene of a severe bombardment during the late naval operations on the coast. It was attacked from batteries erected on Tybee Island, and surrendered April 1 1, 1862. Fort McAllister, near King's Bridge, on the west bank of the Ogeechee, is well worthy a visit. It is reached bj the Gulf Railway. Thunderholl, four miles east of the city. According to local tradition, this place received its name from the fall of a thun- derbolt. A spring of water which issued from the spot upon that event, has con- tinued to flow ever since. Giiristersigo Batde-field, eight miles dis- tant, was the scene of an engagement, in 1*782, between General Wayne and a body of Indians under their chief Guris- tei'sigo. Routes from Savannah. — Georgia is famous, the Union over, for her railroad enterprise. In this respect, as in most others, she leads all the Southern States^ Her lines of railway traverse her borders, and especially in the central and northern portions, in every direction, linking all her towns and districts to each other and \ with all the surrounding States. Nearly ' 1,500 miles of railroad — either finished or being built — ^now centre in Savannah, communicating thence, directly or indi- rectly, westward with Macon and Colum- bus, northward with Charleston and with Montgomery in Alabama, with Aug'usta, Atlanta, and onward to Tennessee, etc. The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is com- pleted and in operation a distance of 189 miles to Boston, whence it will soon reach Pensacola and other points in Flo^'' ida. The Central Railroad extends from Savannah, 190 miles, to Macon, withi branch deflecting from Millen to Augusta,- and another from Gordon to Milledgcviile , and Eatonton. The Macon and Western links the Central road from Savannah with the Western and Atlantic at Atlanta. AH I r^UCroSTA.] GEORGIA. [Atlanta. these and other routes we shall duly fol- low as we continue our journey through the south and southwest. Florida is reached at Pilatka, Jacksonyille, St. Au- Igustine, and other places, by regular tri- weekly steamers from Savannah. (See chapter on Florida.) Steamboats ply daily |o Augusta and other points on the Sa- annah River. Lines of steamships also [furnish direct communication with New fork, Philadelphia, and other Northern tlantic ports. Aug'usta — Hotels, the Planters', uffusta, and the Globe, centrally located n Broad Street, are all well-conducted stablislxments. Augusta, one of the most eautiful cities in Georgia, and the second In population and importance, is on the astern boundary of the State, upon the anks of the Savannah River, 230 miles [rora its mouth, and at the head of its avigable waters, 120 miles north-north- est from Savannah, and 136 northwest om Charleston, with both of v/hich ities it has long been connected by rail- ad. Railway connection with the lat- r city, which was broken during the ar by the destruction of portions of the ■ack, has not yet (May, 186G) been re- ored. The to'mi was laid out in 1*735, nder royal charter. It was again char- red January 31, 1798, and incorporated a city December 19, 1817. The area braced by the city is two miles in ngth and about one in width. Its pres- t population is nearly 20,000, and is eadily increasing. Broad Street, the ain thoroughfare of the city, is a noble enue. This is the Broadway of the city, jherein all the shopping and promenad- g are done, and where the banks, and tels, and markets are to be found, jreene Street is also a broad, prettily aded avenue. Of late years, Augusta ,s spread itself greatly over the level Inds westward. A pleasant ride of between two and ree miles from the heart of the town, ings the visitor to a lofty range of sand- Us, covered with charming summer isideuces. This high ground is in althful atmospheres, even when epi- mics prevail — as they very rarely do, iwever — in the cily below. This sub- |ban settlement is now known as Sum- orville. Here are located the United States Arsenal, erected in 1827, and the long range of workshops built and used by the Confederates during the war. The latter extend upwards of 500 feet in length, are substantially built, and pre- sent an imposing aspect. Returning to the city by leaving the main road to the left, a short distance from the Arsenal the traveller can get a view of the Pow- der Mill and Cotton Factories immediately on the outskirts of the city. These latter are very extensive, and give constant em- ployment to 700 operatives. There are other pleasant drives along the banks of the Savannah, particularly below the city ; and across the river at Hamburg there are some beautiful wooded and grassy terraces, known as Shultz's Hill, and much re- sorted to' as a picnic-ground. Augusta has one or two fine public buildings. The City Hall, built at a cost of $100,000, the Medical College, the Richmond Academy, and the Masonic Hall, are every way creditable to the taste and liberality of the people. The monument, which stands in front of the City Hall, was erected to the memory of the signers of the Declara- tion of Independence from the State of Georgia. The churches are about fifteen in number. St. Patriclc's, corner of Jack- son and Telfair Streets, constructed in 1863, at a cost of $42,000, is a fine edifice. The Market Houses are on Broad Street, and are three-fourths of a mile apart. The rapid development of the up-country of Georgia, within a few years, has brought down to Augusta, by her rail- ways, great prosperity; and the water power which has been secured by means of a canal, which brings the upper floods of the Savannah River to the city, at an elevation of some 40 feet, is enlarging and enriching it by extensive and profita- ble manufactures. This canal, 9 miles in length, was constructed in 1845. Atliens, 92 miles from Augusta, 71 from Milledgeville. Hotel, Lanier House. This is a flourishing town on the Oconee River, at the terminus of the Athens branch of the Georgia Railway. The situation is healthy, and the climate delightful. It is the seat of FrankUn College. Atla^nta. — Hotel, National. The city of Atlanta is the outgrowth . 367 Atlanta.] GEORGIA. [DliCATDI of the railroad system centreing there. It is emphatically a railroad tomi. The original charter of the Western and At- lantic Railway authorized its construction from Chattanooga, Tennessee, to the southeast bank of the Chattahoochee River. In ISS'l an act was passed authorizing its extension eight miles in a southeasterly direction, the survey for which brought it to the site of the pres- ent city. In 1845 the Georgia Railroad was completed to Atlanta, and formed a junction with the Chattanooga and Atlanta or " State Road," as it is locally known. In 1848 the Macon and Western Railroad was completed, but little progress was made toward a permanent settlement until 1852. Even as late as 1853 the population of the place scarcely amounted to 1,500. Apart from the memorable siege with which its name is inseparably connected, Atlanta possesses little to interest the traveller or tourist. Owing to its com- manding central position, in the very heart of the South, not less than on account of its railroad, manufacturing, and other important advantages, it be- came a point of the utmost importance early in the war. Indeed, in the opinion of those best qualified to judge, its im- portance was second only to that of Rich- mond. The series of active military operations of which Atlanta was the cen- tre, commenced July 9, 1864, by the retreat of General Johnston within the fortifications of Atlanta, which extended nearly five and a half miles along the river. By the I'Zth of July, the Federal forces, with the exception of one (Davis's) division of the 14th corps, were across the Chattahoochee, and on the 18th occu- pied the Georgia Railroad, from Stone Mountain on the northeast to Decatur and Peach Tree Creek, within five miles of Atlanta. On the lYth the command of the Confederate troops was transferred to General Hood. From that time up to the 1st of September, a vigorous siege of the city was kept up, when General Hood gave orders for the evacuation of the works, it having been discovered that the main body of the besieging army lay between the city and General Hardee. Fire was set to the rolling stock of the several railroads concentrating here, and 368 to all the stores and ammunition, an soon the heavens were lurid with th flames which rose from the doomed citj A reconnoitring column from General Sic cum's command entered the city on the 2c and received its foi'mal surrender fror Mayor Calhoun. It is estimated that uj: wards of one thousand buildings, includ ing the principal factories, mills, am workshops, were destroyed by this fire The main buildings at present remain ing, are the Medical College, the Frcshy terian, ilethodist, and Baptist ChurcJiei the Cili/ Hall, and a few of the residence in the northern exti-emity of the citj The city is rising phoenix-lilce from it ashes ; the gi'eater portion of the burn ; district has already been rebuilt, and sooi but little trace of its downfall and d«> struction will be left. The corporate lim its embrace an area of four miles square and the population, already 12,000, is rap. idly increasing. IJecatiar, a station on the Georgii Railroad, six miles east of Atlanta, is f healthy and agreeable resort. Siom Mountain, 9 miles from Decatur, is alsc' reached from Atlanta by the Georgif road. At this place is an isolated dome shaped granite rock 2,200 feet above th( sea level. On the summit of this rock L' a tower 180 feet high, commanding a fim' view of the surrounding country. Th( village has good hotel accommodations, (See Stone Mountain, in mountain scener} of Georgia.) l>altoi&, situated 100 miles north ol Atlanta and 36 miles south of Chatta- nooga, at the intersection of the East; Tennessee and Georgia with the Western: and Atlantic Railway, is a growing place. The town (formerly Cross Plains) was laid out in 1846. ' Mountain scenery in the vicinity. Macom, 191 miles from Savannah, 100 from Atlanta. Hotels, the Lanier House, Broivn's Hotel. Macon, one of the most prosperous and popu- lous cities of Georgia, is prettily situated on the Ocmulgee River, at the western terminus of the Central Railway. Occu- pying so central and important a position, it is not a little surprising that it entirely escaped the ravages of war. Like moft of the cities of the State, it is well laid out. The streets are generally 180 fedjt flLLEDSEVILLE.] GEORGIA. [Albany. Hde, and adorned with shade-trees. The loil behig of a sandy, porous character, loes not long retain moisture, and the \>cale is healthy and inviting. The Wes- \jcm Female Oollege, a flourishing insti- ^ition before the war, and even now, iumbering over 100 students, is located lere. The Academy for the Blind, built y the State, of briclc, four stories high, an imposing edifice. It has, also, a otanico-Medical College, a Free Acade- my, and several schools for orphans, here are several iron foundries, flour liills, and machine shops. The Macon ctory is prosperously engaged in the anufacture of coarse cotton goods. 'nse Hill Cemetery, on the banlvS of the cmulgee, is a pretty rural retreat, within sy walking distance of the city. It is ell improved, and contains some fine onuments. Lamar^s Mound is a rising ound, covered with fine private resi- jences, a continuation of which brings |ie visitor to the pleasant suburban vil- e of Vineville. The population of the ty is upwards of 12,000, and increasing, hree daily and two weekly newspapers ■e published here. Milledg-eville. — Hotels, Mil- dgcville Hotel, McComVs Hotel. Mil- dgeville, the capital of Georgia, a town F about 3,000 people, is upon the Oconee jivei", in the midst of a fine cotton-grow- |g region. From Savannah, by the ntral Railway, to Gordon, 171 miles, id thence by the Milledgeville and •xtonton, 18 miles. Total, 189 miles, [•om Augusta, 163 miles ; from Colum- is, 135 miles ; and from Atlanta, 139 iles. The Capitol at Milledgeville is a Gothic structure. The city also intains a Stale Arsenal, a Penitentiary, Coxirt House, and five church edifices, le Oglethorpe University is at Midway, pretty village on the railway, 1^ miles ilow Milledgeville. Katoiitou, the county seat of Put- m County, is pleasantly situated on a Igh ridge of land, at the terminus of the ranch road from Gordon, on the Georgia ntral. It has excellent schools and tractive scenery. Coliuu'bus, 99 miles from Macon, 9 miles from Atlanta. Hotels, Hor- cJi's (formerly Perry House), Cook^s, |th well-kept estabhshments, with every convenience for visitors. Columbus is a town of considerable trade, situated on the east bank of the Chattahoochee River, which forms the western boundary of the State. Across the river has been erected a fine bridge, connecting Columbus with the town of Girard, Ala. It was laid out in 1827, on what was then known as the Coweta Reserve, at the head of the Falls. These falls supply one of the finest water-powers to be found in the South, and the manufacturing interests of the city are already very extensive. It is the centre of a fine agricultural dis- trict, and large quantities of cotton are shipped hence to the seaboard, via the Chattahoochee (see Chattahoochee liiver). The principal buildings are the Court House, Presbyterian Church, Temperance Hall, Bank of Columbus, and two hotels. The streets are all wide and laid out at right angles. Of the three bridges which formerly crossed the river at this point, and which were destroyed during the war (April, 1865), but one has been re- built. The city has railway communica- tion with all important points in the State. Population 10,000. Just above Columbus there are some picturesque rapids in the Chattahoochee, overlooked by a fine rocky b]uff, famous in story as the " Lover's Leap." The scene would be a gem in regions the most renowned for natural beauty. . On the left, the river pursues its downward course to the city, in a straight line. Its flow is rapid and wild, broken by rocks, over which the water frets and foams in angry surges. The bed of the stream is that of a deep ravine, its walls lofty and irregular cliffs, covered to their verge with majestic forest growth. From this point the city of Columbus is but partially visible. The village of Girard and the surrounding hills on the Alabama side form a dis-, tinct and beautiful background to the picture. Fort Talley, in Houston County, is on the Southwestern Railway, 72 miles east of Columbus, and 28 miles southwest of Macon. It contains two church edifices and a flourishing academy. All>any, 76 miles from Macon, by the Southwestern Railway, is on Flint River, at the mouth of Kinchafoonee Creek. Cotton to the amount of 15,000 360 Clarksvillk.] GEORGIA. [TOCCOA FaU! bales was shipped from this point previ- ous to the war. The surrounding coun- try is among the richest in the State. Eufaula, Ala., a thriving town on the Chattahoochee River, is reached by a branch road from the Southwestern Rail- way at Smithville. Tlie Moiimtaiii Reg'ion of* Georg'ia. — Throughout all Northern Georgia, the traveller will find a continua- tion of the chai'ming Blue Ridge land- scape, which we have already explored in the contiguous regions of tipper South Carolina, and North Carolina West. This picturesque district in the " Pine State " extends from Rabun County, in the north- eastern corner of the State, to Dade, in the extreme northwest, where the summit of the Lookout Mountain overlooks the valley of the Tennessee. Here are the famous gold lands, and in the midst of them the Dahlonega branch of the United States Mint. The most frequented, if not the finest scenes in this neighborhood are in the northeast, as the wonderful Falls of Tallulah and Toccoa, the valley of Na- cochee and Mount Yonah in Habersham County, the Cascades of Eastatoia and the great Rabun Gap in Rabun ; all within a day's ride of the Table Mountain, Caesar's Head, Jocasse, the Whitewater Falls, and other wonders of South Caro- lina. Further west are the Falls of Ami- calolah, the Cahutta Mountain, the Dog- wood Valley, and Mount Lookout. This was formerly the hunting-ground of the Cherokees ; and, indeed, not many years have passed since the final removal of this tribe to new homes beyond the Mis- sissippi. ClarlcsTlIle, a pleasant village in Habersham County, is a favorite summer residence of the people of the "Low Country" of Georgia, and the point of rendezvous for the exploration of the landscape of the region — the point from whence to reach Tallulah, Toccoa, Nocoo- chee, etc. From Charleston or Columbia, or other places in South Carolina, follow the railways to Greenville or to Anderson, S. C, and proceed thence by stage, one to two days' ride, to Clarksville ; or take the Georgia railways from Augusta to Athens, and thence by stage, one or two days' travel, to Clarksville, passing the 370 Madison Springs, Mount Currahee, an Toccoa. Toccoa Falls is in the County o! Habersham, a few miles from the viilag of Clarksville. A narrow passage leadi from the roadside to the foot of the fall Before the spectator rises a perpendicula; rock resembling a rugged stone wall, am over it " The brook comes babbling down the monn' tain's side." The height of the fall is now 180 feet- '• Beautiful streamlet ! onward glide, In thy destined course to the ocean's tidel So youth impetuous, longs to be — Tossed on the waves of manhood's sea: But weary soon of cloud and blast, Sighs for the haven its bark hath passed ; And though thon rushest now with glee, By hill and plain to seek the sea — No lovelier spot again thou'lt find ^| Than that thou leavest here behind ; ^| Where hill and rock 'rebound the call'^B Of clear Toccoa's waterfall ! " There are picturesque legends connect- ( ed with this winsome spot ; one of which ^ narrates the story of an Indian chief and t his followers, who, bent upon the exten; mination of the whites, and trusting to the guidance of a woman, were led by I her over the precipice, and, of courae^l perished in their fall. The Caiaracis of Tallulah are 12 mile»l from Clarksville (see route to Clarksville); by a road of very varied beauty. From Too- i coa to Tallulah the cut across is five or sii « miles only. There is a comfortable hold t near the edge of the gorges traversed by this wild moimtain stream, and hard byl its army of waterfalls. The Tallulah or i Terrora, as the Indians more appositely ' called it, is a small stream, which rushes through a chasm in the Blue Ridge, rend- ing it for several miles. The ravine is 1,000 feet in depth, and of a similar width. Its walls are gigantic cliffs of dark granite. The heavy masses piled upon each other in the wildest confusion, sometimes shoot out, overhanging the yawning gulf, and threatening to break from their seemingly frail tenure, and hurl themselves headlong into its dark depths. Along the rocky and uneven bed of this deep abyss, the infuriated Terrora frets and foams with ever-varying The Pulpit.] GEORGIA. [Mount Yonah. course. Now, it flows in sullen majesty, through a deep and romantic glen, em- bowered in the foliage of the trees, which here and there spring from the rocky ledges of the chasm walls. Anon, it f-ushes with accelerated motion, breaking fretfully over protruding rocks, and utter- ing harsh murmurs, as it verges a preci- pice — " "WTiere, collected all, In one impetuous torrent, down the steep It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round : At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad; Then whitening hy degrees as prone it falls, And from the loud-resounding rocks below Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft A hoary mist, and forms a. ceaseless shower." The most familiar point of observation The Pulpit^ an immense cliff which projects far into the chasm. From this josition, the extent and depth of the fear- ul ravine, and three of the most roman- ic of the numerous cataracts, are observed. Bit various other localities fine glimpses lown into the deep gorge are afforded, md numerous other paths lead to the )ottom of the chasm. At the several :ataracts — the Lodore, the Tempesta, the Icewna^ the Serpentine, and others — the )icture is ever a new and striking one — vhich the most striking and beautiful, it yould be very difficult to determine, rhe natural recess called the Trysting Rock, once the sequestered meeting- ilace of Indian lovers, is now a halting- pot for- merry groups as they descend he chasm, just below the Lodore cascade, ^rom this point, Lodore is upon the left, ip the stream; a huge perpendicular [k'all of parti-colored rock towers up in TCJit and below; to the right are seen he foaming waters of the Oceana cas- ade, and the dark glen into which they re surging their maddened way. Tem- esta, the Serpentine, and other falls, lie et below. The wild grandeur of this ountain goi'ge, and the variety, number, nd magnificence of its cataracts, give it jank with the most imposing waterfall cenery in the Union. The Valley of JSfacoocliee, or the Even- bg Star, is said by tradition to have ^on its name from the story of the hap- !ss love of a beauteous Indian princess, hose sceptre once ruled its solitudes. With or without such associations, it will be remembered with pleasure by all whose fortune it may be to see it. The valley-passages of the South are special- ties in the landscape, being often so small and so thoroughly and markedly shut in, that each forms a complete picture in it- self The little vale of Jocasse, in South Carolina, is such a scene, and that of Na- coochee is another, and yet finer example. Nacoochee, like Tallulah and Toccoa, is a pleasant day's excursion from Clarks- ville. Mount Yonah looks down into the quiet heart of Nacoochee, lying at its base. If the tourist should stay over- night in the valley, as he will be apt to do, he ought to take a peep at the mountain panorama to be seen from the summit of old Yonah. The village of Clayton is an out-of-the-way little place, occupying the centre of a valley completely encircled by lofty mountain ranges. The Falls of the Eastatoia are some three or four miles from the village of Clayton, in Eabun, the extreme north- eastern county of Georgia. They lie off the road to the right, in the passage of the Rabun Gap, one of the mountain ways from Georgia into North Carolina. Clayton may be reached easily from Clarksville, the next town southward, or in a ride of 12 miles from the Falls of Tallulah. The Eastatoia, or the Rabun Falls, as they are otherwise called, would be a spot of crowded resort, were it in the midst of a more thickly peo- pled country. The scene is a succes- sion of cascades, noble in volume and character, down the ravined flanks of a rugged mountain height. From the top of one of the highest of the falls, a mag- nificent view is gained of the valley and waters of the Tennessee, north of the vil- lage of Clayton, and the hills which en- compass it. Before exploring further the mountain scenery of Georgia, we feel in duty bound to say a few words about accommodations, conveniences for travel, etc., and to remind the traveller, that when he leaves the frequented routes hereabouts, or anywhere among the Southern hills, he must voyage in his own conveyance, wagon or on horseback (the latter the better), stop for the night 371 Falls of Amicalolah.] GEORGIA. [D All LOSE I at any cabin near -which the twilight may find him, content himself with such fare as he can get (we -won't discourage him by presenting the carte), and pay for it moderately -when he resumes his journey in the morning. Union County, lying upon the north- -west line of Habersham, is distin- guished for natural beauty, and for its objects of antiquarian interest. Among these is the Track Jiock, bearing wonderful impressions of the feet of curi- ous animals now extinct. Pilot Jlountm/i, also in Union, is a no- ble elevation of some 1,200 feet. Hiawassee Falls, on the Hiawassee Riv- er, present a series of beautiful cascades, some of them from 50 to 100 feet in height. The Falls of AmicalolaJi are in Lump- kin County, southwest of Habersham. They lie some 17 miles west of the village of Dahlonega, near the State road leading to East Tennessee. The name is a com- pound of two Cherokee words — " Ami," signifying water, and " Calolah," rolling or tumbUng ; strikingly expressive of the cataract, and affording us another instance of the simplicity and significant force of the names conferred by the untutored sons of the forest. The visitor should rein up at the nearest farm-house, and make his way thence, either up the Rat- tlesnake Hollow to the base of the Falls, or to the summit. The range of moun- tains to the south and west, as it strikes the eye from the top of the falls, is truly sublime; and the scene is scarcely sur- passed in grandeur by any other, even in this country of everlasting hills. The •view from the foot embraces, as strictly regards tbe falls themselves, much more than the view from above, and is there- fore, perhaps, the better ; both, however, should be obtained in order to form a just conception of the scene; for here we have a succession of cataracts and cas- cades, the greatest not exceeding 60 feet, but the torrent, in the distance of 400 yards, descending more than as many hundred feet. This creek has its source npon the Blue Ridge, several miles east of the falls ; and it winds its way, fringed -with wild flowers of the richest dyes, and kissed in autumn by the purple wild- grapes which cluster over its transparent 372 bosom ; and so tranquil and mirror-1 , is its surface, that one will fancy it to a thing of life, conscious of its proxim: fate, rallying all its energies for the sta ling leap; and he can scarcely forbt moralizing upon the oft-recurring a striking vicissitudes of human life, as ill trated in the brief career of this beauti streamlet. I>aIiloiieg'a, the thriving capii of Lumpkin County, is beautifully situat on a high hiU commanding a magnifice view of the mountain scenery of this love region. The Indian name of the pla was Tau-lau-ne-ea, " Yellow Monej The gold mines in the vicinity are st worke 1, and are the richest in Georg'. The United States branch mint cc $100,000. Travellers will find a well-ke hotel. Mount Currqhee is on the upper edge i Franklin County, adjoining Habershai where we have already visited the Falls Tallulah and Toccoa, Xacoocliee ai Tonah, and on the stage route fro Athens (see ClarhrciJle) to those scene It is about 16 miles above the village t Caimesville, and a few miles belo-;v tl Toccoa cascade. The traveller fresh froi the lowlands always finds this a scene o much interest. The Rock Mountain (Stone Mount«i is a place of great repute and resort in th western part of the State. ItisinDeKal County, 16 mUes east of Atlanta, th western terminus of the Georgia Railwaj It may thus be easily reached by th. Georgia Road from Augusta, and aU pointoj thereon, and from places on the maml different railwavs meeting at Atlanta (See Atlanta.) The mountain stands alon in a comparatively level region. It cover 1,000 acres of surface. Its circumferenci is about six miles. Its height above thi sea 2,230 feet, which is further increasei by the addition of an observatory. Th( western view of the mountain, thougl perhaps the most beautiful, is not calcn lated to give the beholder a just concep tion of its magnitude. To obtain this, h* must visit the north and south sides, botli at the base and at the summit. Pursuing, for half a mile, a road wTiich winds in an easterly direction along the base of th€ mountain, the traveller arrives directly opposite its northern front. There Lookout Mountain.] GEORGIA. [Springs. view is exceedingly grand and imposing. Tliis side of the mountain presents an almost uninterrupted surface of rock, rising about 900 feet at its greatest eleva- ' tion. It extends nearly a mile and a half, ' gi-adually declining toward the west, while ; the eastern termination is abrupt and ' precipitous. The side is not perpendicu- lar, but exhibits rather a convex face, deeply marked with furrows. During a ' shower of rain, a thousand waterfalls pour ' down these channels ; and if, as sometimes 'happens, the sun breaks forth in his 'splendor, the mimic torrents flash and , sparkle in his beams, like the coruscations ; of countless diamonds. Near the road is ;a spi'ing, which, from the beauty of its ilocation, and the delightful coolness of its iwaters, is an agreeable place of resort. It is in a shady dell, and its water gushes 'up from a deep bed of white and sparkling .sand. A more exquisite beverage a pure taste could not desire. Among the curios- .ities of the mountain, there are two ;which are especially deserving of notice. |One is the " Cross Roads." There are (two crevices or fissures in the rock, which icross each other nearly at right angles, ffhey commence as mere cracks, increas- iing to the width and depth of five feet at their mtersection. They are of different lengths, the longest extending probably ^00 feet. These curious passages are bovered at their junction by a flat rock, libout 20 feet in diameter. Another is the ruins of a fortification, which once Burrounded the crown of the mountain. kt is said to have stood entire in 1788. VVhen or by whom it was erected is un- known. The Indians say that it was there pefore the time of their fathers. I Lookout Mountain. — On the summit i |)f this beautiful spur, the northwest i corner of Georgia and the northeast ex- iremity of Alabama, meet the southern boundary of Tennessee. Almost in the ihadow of the Lookout heights lies the [msy town of Chattanooga, in Tennessee, HI the great railwayrouto from Charleston na the Georgia roads to Knoxville, and hence by the Virginia railways to the lorth ; and on the other hand westward, Jirough Nashville, to the Ohio and the (lississippi. (See Chattanooga, in the (hapter on Tennessee.) The country 'round the "Lookout" is extremely pic- turesque; the views all about the moun- tain itself are admirable, and nothing can exceed in beauty the charming valley of the Tennessee and its waters, as seen from its lofty summit. It is, too, in the imme- diate vicinage of the Dogwood Valley, and the Nickajack Cave in Alabama. The Falls of the Towalaga would be beautiful anywhere, and they are therefore particularly so occurring as they do in a part of the State not remarkable for its picturesque character. They are easily reached from Forsyth or Griffin on the Macon and "Western Railway. The river above the falls is about three hundred feet in width, fiowing swiftly over a rocky shoal. At its first descent it is divided by a ledge of rock, and forms two precipitous falls for a distance of fifty feet. The falls are much broken by the uneven surface over which the water flows, and on reach- ing their rocky basin, are shivered into foam and spray. From the foot of this fall the stream foams rapidly down its declivitous channel for two hundred feet, and again bounds over a minor precipice in several distinct cascades, which com- mingle their waters at its base in a cloud of foam. SPRINGS. The Indian. Springs are in Butts County, near the falls of the Towalaga. (See Macon and Western Railway.) The Madi&on Springs are on the stage route from Athens to the -waterfall region of Habersham County, seven miles from Danielsville, the capital of Madison County. (See Athens branch, Georgia Railway.) The Warm Springs, in Merriweather County, are 36 miles N. E. by stage from Columbus. A nearer railway point is Lagrange, on the Atlanta and West Point Railway. These springs discharge 1,400 gallons of water per minute, of 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The Sulphur Springs are six miles north of Gainesville, Hall County, in the upper part of the State. (See Athens branch, Georgia Railway.) The Rowland Springs are about six miles from Cartersville, in Cass County. Cartersville is a station on the Western and Atlantic Railway, 4*7 miles north of 373 Sl'RlNGS.] GEORGIA. [Springs. Atlaata and 89 miles south of Chatta- nooga. The JRed Sulphur Springs, or " the Vale of Springs" are at the base of Taylor's Ridge, in Walker County, the northwest corner of the State. In the vicinage is the Lookout Mountain and other beautiful scenes. No less than twenty springs are found here in the space of half a mile, — chalybeate, sulphur, red, white and black, and magnesia. (See Chattanooga and vicinity.) 374 The Thundering Springs are in TTpson County. The nearest railway station is Forsyth. (See Macon and Western Rail- way.) The Powder Springs — sulphur and mag- nesia — are in Cobb County, 20 miles above Atlanta. (See Western and Atlantic Railway.) Nickajack Cave is in the immediate vicinity of Chattanooga. (See chapter on Alabama.) FlOKISA.] FLORIDA. [Florida. FLOEID A.. Florida is much visited from tlie north during the winter months by those who love mild and balmy atmospheres, and especially by invalids in quest of health- restoring climates. The villages of St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Pilatka, and neighboring places, which are those most particularly sought, are near the Atlantic coast, in the extreme northeastern part of the State. They may be speedily and pleasantly reached by steamers from Charleston and Savannah, as we shall show, after a very hasty peep at the spe- cialties in the history and character of the region. Though so recently (1820) ad- mitted into the Confederacy of States, Florida is more fertile in materials of his- tory than many of her elder sister States. Hith er came Poncede Leon (1512), hoping to find the fabled fountain of perpetual youth and strength ; and shortly after, is^arvaez, who invaded the country from Cuba with 400 men, and penetrating the interior, was never again heard of De Soto followed in 1539, with a not much happier reward, for though he subdued the savages and took possession of their land, it was only to leave it again and to pass on. Battle and strife have, with intervals of quiet, so characterized Florida, almost to the present day, that its name would seem but irony did it really refer, as is generally supposed, to the floral vegetation of the 3oil, instead of to the simple happening of the discovery of the country on Pascica Florida, or Palm Sunday. The earliest settlements in Florida were made by the I rench, but they were driven out by the Spaniards, who established themselves ecurely at St. Augustine in 1565, many 'ears before any other settlement was jaade on the western shores of the Atlan- lic. Before the Revolution, Florida warred vith the English colonies of Carolina and Georgia, and passed into British posses- sion in 1763. It was reconquered by Spain in 1781, and from that period until within very late years, it has been the field of Indian occupation and warfare. The reconquest by Spain in 1781, was confirmed in lYSS, and in 1821 that power ceded the country to the United States. Its territorial organization was made in 1822, and its admission into the Union as a State occurred March 3, 1845. A san- guinary war was waged from 1834 to 1842, between the troops of the United States and the Indian occupants, the Seminoles, led by their famous chief Osceola. Since that period the savages have been re- moved to other territory, excepting some few who are still in possession of the impenetrable swamps and jungles of the lower portions of the State. The ordinance of secession was pass- ed at Tallahassee, January 7, 1861. Florida is the grand peninsula forming the extreme southeastern part of the United States. Its entire area eastward lies upon the Atlantic, and the Gulf of Mexico washes almost the whole of the western side. Georgia and Alabama are upon the north. The country is for the most part level, being nowhere more than 250 or 300 feet above the sea. The southern part of the peninsula is covered with a large sheet of water called the Everglades — an immense area, filled with islands, which it is supposed may be reclaimed by drainage. The central portion of the State is somewhat elevated, the highest point being about 1*71 feet above tlie ocean, and gradually declining toward the coast on either side. The country between the Suwanee and the Chatta- hoochee is elevated and hilly, and the western region is level. The lands of Florida are almost sui generis, very curi- 375 Florida.] FLORIDA. [HlBKRNFA. ously distributed, and may be desig- nated as high hummock, low hummock, swamp, savannas, and the different qualities of fine land. High hum- mock is usually timbered with live and other oaks, with magnolia, laurel, etc., and is considered the best description of land for general purposes. Low hum- mock, timbered with live and water oak, is subject to overflows, but when drained is preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the margins of streams and in detached bodies are usually very rich and alluvious, yield- ing in dry seasons, but needing, at other times, ditching and diking. Marsh savannas, on the borders of tide streams, are very valuable, when re- claimed, for rice or sugar-cane. The swampy, island-filled lake callecf the Everglades is covered with a dense jungle of vines and evergreens, pines, and pal- mettoes. It lies south of Okechobee, and is 160 miles long and 60 broad. Its depth varies from one to six feet. A rank tall grass springs from the vegetable deposits at the bottom, and rising above the surface of the water, gives the lake the deceitful air of a beautiful verdant lawn. The soil is v/ell adapted, it is thought, to the production of the plantain and the banana. In the interior of Flori- da there is a chain of lakes, of which the extreme southern link is Lake Okechobee, nearly 20 miles in length. Many of these waters are extremely picturesque in their own unique beauty of wild and rank tropi- cal vegetation. The rivers of the State are numerous, and, like the lakes, pre- sent everywhere to the eye of the stranger very novel attractions, in the abundance and variety of the trees and shrubs and vines which line all their shores and bayous. The largest of the many rivers is the Appalachicola, which crosses the western arm of the State to the Gulf of Mexico. The St. Mary's is the boundary on" the extreme northern corner, Georgia being upon the opposite bank. Its waters flow into the Atlantic, as do those of the St. Johns River, in the same section of the State. All the main points of inter- est in Florida are easily reached from ■ Savannah by steam-packets down the coast. The Dictator makes the round trip from Charleston to Jacksonville weekly, stopping at Savannah and Fernan- 376 dina ; other boats run between Savannah ■ and Pilatka, calling at Brunswick, St. Mai'ys, Fernandina, Jacksonville, and Picolata. The St. Johns River is the prin- cipal point of attraction, and that to which we propose to direct the more particular attention of the tourist. It comes from a marshy tract in the central part of the peninsula, flowing first northwest to the mouth of the Ochlawaha, and thence about northward to Jacksonville, and finally eastward to the Atlantic. It is navigated by steamboats only to Pilatka, though vessels drawing eight feet of water may pass up 107 miles, to Lake George. The entire length of the river is 200 miles. The country which it trav- erses is covered chiefly with dank cypress swamps and desolate pine barrens; the banks, which are from ten to twenty feet high, are overgrown with the trees for which the State is so famous, amongst which are the pine, magnolia, live-oak, and palmetto. •ffadisonville, 25 miles from the mouth of the St. Johns, is the most impor- tant point on the river. It is a flourishing, busy town of about 2,000 inhabitants, has numerous saw-mills, and considerable commerce. Jacksonville has direct rail- way communication with Tallahassee and Cedar Keys. ' Mitoernia, situated at th« mouth of Black Creek, 4*7 miles up the St. Johns, is a quiet, pleasant, home-like place, of considerable resort. Micltllelsiarg-Isj 16 miles up Black Creek, report speaks favorably of. It consists of a few houses only. ItSagmolia (56 miles, on the west bank of the St. Johns) has a large hotel kept by Dr. Benedict, a Northern physi- cian, of established reputation. Good rooms and good entertainment may be expected here. ©reem Cove Springs (wai-m sidphur) are one and a half miles above Magnolia. There is good accommodation for visitors. Picolata, 10 miles beyond Magno- lia, and 66 miles from the mouth, has a good house for visitors. This is the point of departure f8r St. Augustine. P'ilatka, on the west bank, 25 miles, or two hours, further south, is a new and thriving town, deriving consider-- Enteepkise.] FLORIDA. [St. Augustine. able trade from the fertile back country. It is the capital of Putnam County. Here are two hotels. Passengers take stage here for Orange Spr'ings and Ocala. Wilalca is a comparatively recent settlement, on the east bank of the St. [Johns, 110 miles from its mouth. SEnterpi'ise (180 miles), also on the east bank, on Lake Monroe, boasts a new, large, commodious, and well-kept hotel. The hunting and fishing are good in the vicinity. Steamboat excursions on the St. Johns River are frequently made po Lake Harney^ sixty miles above Enter- brise. Thirty miles east from Enterprise, pa the sea-coast, and four miles from osquito Inlet, is Neio Smyrna, consist- g of two houses. Reached by mail- agon, once a week. Mr. Sheldon enter- ains company, and insures them capital port. Mail Isoat leaves here for Indian iver every second week. This is a fine, lealthy location. A new hotel is to be ut up the coming season. St. Aiig'iistiiae, 160 miles from avannah, 200 from Tallahassee. St. iugustine is well furnished with ho- tels and boarding-houses, and there is musually ample and comfortable accom- iiodation for all comers. The principal lotels are the Magnolia, a well-built, veil-kept, and well-furnished resort, and he Planters'. First-class boarding- liouses are also to be found. Visitors, |nless more than ordinai'ily difficult and xacting, will find the tables satisfactorily urnished; admirably so, considering the 5olation of the place, and its remoteness rom markets and commercial cities, 'he winter fare consists of groceries and lutter from the North ; delicious fish and ysters, beef, game, poultry, venison, uck, wild turkey, and occasionally green firtle ; green peas and salads are rarely '1 eking, even in midwinter; game birds re abundant, such as quail, snipe, etc. i. Augustine is built along the seaward ide of a narrov/ ridge of land, situated be- ween a salt marsh and estuary half a mile 'om the beach, two miles from the ocean, 1 sight of the bar and lighthouse, and I ithin hearing of the surf. The soil is lindy loam and decomposed shell, and is jery productive. Approaching by a iridge and causeway crossing the St. Sebastian River and marsh, we enter a well-shaded avenue, flanked by gardens and orange-groves, which leads directly to the centre of the quaint old city. Here is the public square, a neat enclosure of some two acres, facing which, on either side, stand the Court House, the Market and wharf, the Protestant Episcopal Church — a plain building, in the pointed style, handsomely furnished — and, imme- diately opposite, the venerable Roman Catholic Church, a striking edifice of seemingly great antiquity, but built only about eighty years ago. It is of the periwig pattern, and in the worst possible taste. One of its bells bears date 1682. Con- nected with this church is a small convent and school. A minute's walk brings us to the sea-wall or breakwater, a broad line of massive masonry, built about 1840 by order of Government, at great cost, for the protection of the city, but whose chief use is that of affording to the inhabitants the pleasantest promenade in fine weather. This wall extends half a mile southward to the now deserted barracks and maga- zine, and as far northward as Fort Mccrion (formerly Castle of St. Mark), a pictu- resque and decayed fortress, which once commanded the whole harbor, looming up out of the flat landscape, grand as a Moorish castle, and forming the most conspicuous and interesting relic of the Spanish occupation. Parallel to this sea- wall, run north and south, with short in- tersections, the three principal streets or lanes, long, narrow, without pavement or sidewallc, irregularly built up with "dumpy" but substantial houses, rather dingy and antediluvian, mostly of stone, or with the lower stories stone and the upper of wood. They have invariably the chimneys outside, and are ornamented with projecting balconies and latticed verandas, from which the gay paint has long since faded, being all toned and weather-stained into one sombre gray hue, which, in keeping with the surroundings, is the joint result of age, neglect, sun, and saline air. Every house is separated from its neighbor by more or less of garden plot, ill protected by broken fence and crum- bling wall, wherein they raise two or more crops of vegetables every year, figs in perfection, and roses in unmeasured abundance. St. Augustine is sometimes 3-77 St. Augustine.] FLORmA. [Fernandina styled the "Ancient City," and is, indeed, the oldest in the United States. Its ap- peai-ance is in strict keeping with its venerable age, seen in the unequivocal marks of decay or decrepitation. Perhaps the friable nature of the common building material contributes to this ruinous ap- pearance, all the older houses being con- structed of a stratified concrete of minute shell and sand called " coquina," in blocks conveniently obtained, and easily worked, hardening by exposure, but abrading and crumbling in course of time. Coquina houses, however, are invariably dark, and always damp in winter, on which account frame dwellings, although not so cool for summer houses, are much preferred by the innovating Yankees. But the Minor- can, or sub-Spanish population, still adhere to their traditions, and refuse to be reformed. They build for the summer time — the longest season — and wisely build, when they do build, the same solid, squat, low-doored, narrow-windowed, dis- agreeably-dark and rheumatically-damp dwellings as ever. Visitors, however, in choosing winter quarters, will do well to prefer those hotels which are of frame, and have a cheerful sunny exposure. Northerners seeking in Florida a milder climate and permanent winter residence, have generally preferred St. Augustine. And with the best reason. The proximity of the Gulf Stream renders it warmer in winter and cooler in summer than the settlements on the St. Johns River. It is at present the most southern habitable place on the eastern coast; and it has peculiar advantages over all other towns in East Florida — in its churches, its com- pany, and its comforts. Good society may always be had there ; the citizens are hospitable, and among the visitors are always some agreeable persons, cultivated and distinguished. Visitors begin to arrive about the holidays, and the first " stranger " is looked for with as much anxiety as the first Connecticut shad. From the middle of March until the middle of April is the height of the season, and then the hotels are crowded. Deli- ciously fresh and mild is the atmosphere during the first spring heats. Then the soft south wind fills the senses with a voluptuous languor, and the evening land breeze comes laden with the fragrance of 378 orange-blossoms and the breath of roses. A moonlight walk upon the sea-wall su". gests the Mediterranean, and the illusion is heightened by the accents of a foreign tongue. The effect of these happy climat- ic and social conditions is very noticeable. The most morose tempers seem to lose their acerbity, and even the despairinn- invalid catches the contagion of cheerful- ness. Two-thirds of the population of St. Augustine (amounting to 1,300 whites) are of Spanish origin, and still speak the Spanish language. The women are pretty, > modest, dark-eyed brunettes ; dress neatly in gay colors, are skilful at needle-work, and good housewives. The men exhibit equally characteristic traits of race and nationality. The people are generally . poor. There are no manufactures. The town produces little, and exports nothing — its chief support, since the loss of its ' orange-groves, being derived from Gov- ' ernment offices, and receipts from strang- ers. It has one saw-mill, rarely running. It has a bathing-house, three good physi- cians, and a dentist. Anastaiia Island, opposite St. Augustine, is twenty miles in length, and affords picturesque views. Perhaps no city in the Union is healthier than St. Augustine. Thirty-six miles north of the St. Johns is the St. Mary's river. St. Mai-y's. — St. Mary's may be in- i eluded in this region, though it lies in the ^ State of Georgia, yet still near the north- ' east line of Florida. It is upon the St. Mary's River, nine miles from the sea. The village is a pleasant one, and the healthfulness of climate makes it a great resort for invalids. ff'ei'iiaiitlima, the county seat of Nassau County, is pleasantly situated on the north end of Amelia Island, a little south of the St. Mary's River. The island is fifteen miles long and nearly three in its greatest width. The land is well adapted to the growth of cotton. The town con- sists of about fifty houses, built of wood. The harbor is considered one of the best south of the Chesapeake. "TallaSiassee, 194 miles from Mo- i bile, 130 from Pensacola. Hotel, City Hotel. Tallahassee, the capital of Florida, is a pleasant city, of some 2,000 inhabi- tants, in the centre of the northern and most populous part of the State, near the head of the Gulf of Mexico. It is con- Iallahassek.] FLORIDA. [Pensacola. lected by railroad, 26 miles, with St. ilarks, near the Gulf. It is regularly built upon a somewhat elevated site. ft contains the State-House, Court-House, ind several churclies. Here on the Vth bf January, 1861, the ordinance of seces- sion was passed. Some of its public edi- ces are highly respectable, but do not ;all.for any special remark. Chief among the attractions of Tallahassee are the many beautiful springs found in the I'icinity. Ten miles from the city is a famous fountain, called Waclmlla. It is {in immense limestone basin, &s yet un- athomed in the centre, with waters as ransparent as crystal. A Southern poetess has thus grai^hically lortrayed the beauties of Waclmlla: "Wachulla, beauteous Spring 1 thy crystal waters Eeflect the loveliness of Sonthern skies; Jid oft methinks the dark-haired Indian daughters Bend o'er thy silver depths with wondering eyes; rom forest glade the swarthy chief emerg- ing, Delighted paused, thy matchless charms to view ; hen to thy flower-gemmed border slowly verging, I see him o'er thy placid bosom urging His light canoe! '^ith the bright crimson of the Maple twin- ing, The fragrant Bay its peerless chaplet weaves ; nd where Magnolias in their pride are shin- ing. The broad Palmetto spreads its fan-like leaves: ir down the forest aisles where sunbeams quiver. The fairest flowers their rainbow hues com- bine; nd pendant o'er the s-n-iftly flowing river. The shadows of the graceful Willow shiver. In glad sunshine I •ight-plumaged birds their gorgeous hues en wreathing, Their amorous' tunes to listening flowers repeat; hich. in reply, their sweetest incense breathing, ?our on the silent air their perfume sweet: ^om tree to tree the golden jasmine creep- ing, langs its light bells on every slender spray; ad in each fragrant chalice slying peeping, Phe IIumming-Bird its odorous store is reaping, The livelong day!" ROUTES. From Pensacola to Tallahassee. — To La Grange (on Choctawhatchie Bay), by steamboat, 65 miles ; by stage to Holmes "Valley, 25 ; Oakey Hill, 42 ; Marianna, 66 ; Chattahoochee, 90 ; Quincy, 108 ; Salubrity, 11*7; Tallahassee, 130. From Jacksonville to Tallahassee.— To the White Sulphur Spring, 82 miles. This carious spring rises in a basin ten feet deep and thirty in diameter ; it discharges a quan- tity of water, and after running a course of about 100 feet, enters the Suwanee River. The waters have been found very beneficial in cases of consumption, rheu- matism, and a variety of other complaints. Visitors will find ample accommodation here. From the mineral spring to Madi- son, 35 miles; Lipona, 73; Tallahassee, 98 — or 180 miles from Jacksonville. Appsalaclaicola, is at the entrance of the river of the same name into the Gulf of Mexico, through the Appalachicola Bay. It is easily accessible by the river and the gulf, and is a place of large cot- ton shipments. It is 135 miles south- west of Tallahassee. Population 2,000. ff»eiisacola— Hotels, Bedell House, Winter's House, St. Mary's Hall. Pensacola is upon the Pensacola Bay, in the extreme northwest corner of the State, 10 miles from the Gulf of Mexico and 64 east of Mo- bile. It was known as late as 1699 by its Indian name of Auclusia. The harbor here is one of the safest on the Florida coast, which is not remarkable for safe harbors. It is well sheltered by St. Rosa Island, and is defended by Forts Pickens, McRea, and Barrancas. Forts McRae and Bar- rancas were occupied by rebel troops dur- ing the war of 1861-'65. Pensacola is a United States naval station, and contains a Marine Hospital and Custom House. The population of Pensacola is about 8,000. Route from Pemacola to Mobile, Ala. —To Blakely, 50 ; Mobile, 64 miles. _ Xamapa is on Tampa, formerly Es- piritu Sauto Bay, which opens on the Gulf of Mexico, near the centre of the western coast of Florida. Key ^W^est City is upon the island of Key West, off the southern extremity of the peninsula, occupying the important post of key to the Gulf passage. 379 Key West City.] FLORIDA. [Key West Citt. It was first settled in 1822, and is now the most populous city of Florida, having a population of about 3,000. It is a mili- tary station of the United States. Some 30,000 bushels of salt are annually made at Key West, by solar evaporation. Great quantities of sponges, too, are found and exported ; but the chief busi- ness of the island accrues from the sal- vages upon the wrecks cast upon the coast. Forty or fifty vessels are every year lost in the vicinity, by which the island profits to the amount of $200,000. The Marhie Hospital here, 100 feet long, is a noteworthy budding. Fort Taylor, a strong and costly post, defends the har- bor. The Charleston and Havana steam- ers touch at Key West once a week. The " Florida Steamship Line " despatch 380 a steamer fortnightly from Pier 9, East River, N. Y., for Appalachicola and Key West (Bennfir & Brown, 113 Wall Street, Agents). A railway now extends frora Fernandina, on the Atlantic coast, south- westerly across the peninsula, to Cedar Keys on the Gulf of Mexico ; stage lines di- verge to various points in the interior. The Pensacola and Georgia Railway will cross the upper part of the State from Jackson west to Tallahassee. This route is at present in operation 25 miles from Talla- hassee to Montieello. Other lines will soon connect Tallahassee with Pensacola, and with Savannah, Macon, etc. The best time to go to Florida (east coast), either for health or pleasure, is from the 1st of January to the 1st of April. IAlabasia.] ALABAMA. [Alabama. ALABAMA This State, though hitherto little visited jby tourists and pleasure-seekers, either from the North or South, forms never- theless an interesting field of adventure, as weU as an important link of communi- cation in making the grand tour of the pouth. From the North it is most readily ,b,nd expeditiously reached by way of liVVashington, Lynchburg, Knoxville, and ktlanta. The route by Savannah, Macon, "olumbus, and Montgomery is, however, he most pleasant, as combining both sea lid land travel. Travellers from New rleans and Mobile can reach Montgom- iry, the State capital, either by boat up he Alabama River, or by railway from klobile. The history of this State is in- olved in some obscurity. It is supposed hat it was first visited by white men in 541, when the troops of De Soto passed hrough it on their memorable exploring xpedition to the great Mississippi. In 702 a fort was erected in Mobile Bay by Frenchman named Bienville, and nine ears later the present site of the city of lobile was occupied At the peace of 763 this territory passed into the pos- ession of the English, with all the French ossessions (except New Orleans) east of tie Mississippi. Until 1802 Alabama ras included in the domain of Georgia, nd after 1802 and up to 1817 it was a art of the Mississippi Territory. At liat period it was formed into a distinct jovernment, and was admitted in 1819 to the Union as an independent State. he natural beauties of Alabama, except- g in the peculiar features of the south- n lowlands seen near the coast, are not such marked interest to the tourist as nc landscape of many other States. In upper region are the extreme southern ,)()Sts of the great Appalachian hill iiy;es; but, as if wearied with all their long journey, they here droop their once bold heads and fall to sleep, willing, per- haps, to accept the poetical signification of the name of the new territory into which they now enter — Alabama, Here we rest While the upper portion of the State is thus rude and hilly, the central falls into fertile prairie reaches. The ex- treme southern edge for fifty or sixty miles from the gulf is sometimes a sandy, sometimes a rich alluvial plain. The cli- mate, like that of most of the Southern States, varies from the characteristics of the tropics below, through all the inter- mediate degrees, to the salubrious and in- vigorating air of the mountain lands above. The chief agricultural product of Alabama is cotton, of which great sta- ple it yielded, before the war, more than any other State in the Union. Extensive canebrakes once existed, but they have been greatly cleared away. Sugar-cane grows on the southwest neck, between Mobile and the Mississippi. Many of the rich alluvial tracts yield i-ice abundantly. Tobacco, also, is produced. Indian corn, oats, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, barley, flax, and silk, are much cultivated, besides many other grains, fruits, and vegetables, and large supplies of live stock of all de- scriptions. Alabama is rich in minerals ; deposits of coal, iron, variegated marbles, limestone, and other treasures, being ex- tensively found within her borders. Gold mines, too, have been found and worked. Salt, sulphur, and chalybeate springs abound. The State is divided into fifty-two counties, and contains a white population of nearly half a million. Montgomery, the capital, is a growing city ; the principal commercial towns are Mobile, Tuscaloosa, Huntsville, and Selma. ElVERS.- -The Alabama is the principal 881 Railways.] ALABAMA. [MOBILK. river of the State. It is formed by the Coosa and Tallapoosa, which unite about ten miles north of Montgomery. About 45 miles above Mobile it is joined by the Tombigbeo, and the nnited waters are thence known as the Mobile lliver. The Alabama is navigable "for large steamers through its whole course of 460 miles, from the city of Mobile to Wetumpka. Between these points there are upwards of two hundred landings. It flows through a country of rich cotton-fields, broad savanna lands, and dense forest tracts. The trip down the Alabama, from Mont- gomery to Mobile, during the cotton- shipping season (December to March), forms one of the most interesting and exciting experiences of the Southern trav- eller. The Tomhighee River flows 450 miles from the northeast corner of Mississippi, first to Demopolis, where it unites with the Black AVarrior, and thence to the Alabama Eiver, about 45 miles above Mobile. Its course is through fertile savanna lands, occupied by cotton plantations. Aber- deen, Columbus, Pickensville, Gainesville, and Demopolis, are upon its banks. Large steamboats ascend 416 miles to Columbus. The Black Warrio7' River unites at Demopolis with the Tombigbee (see To7n- biffbee, above). Tuscaloosa, the capital of the State, is upon its banks. To this point large steamboats regularly ascend, 413 miles from Mobile. The Indian name of this river was Tuscaloosa, and it is still thus sometimes called. The Chattahoochee forms a part of the eastern boundary of the State. (See Georgia.) The Tennessee flows for 130 miles of its course through northerr Alabama (see Muscle Shoals). The remaining rivers worthy of mention are the Cahawba, Escambia. Blackwater, Yellowwater, aaid Choctawhatchee. Railways. — The Mobile and Ohio Rail- way to Corinth and Jackson, Miss., Co- lumbus, Kentucky, 472 miles, and thence by steamer to Cairo, Illinois, where it connects with the Illinois Central to Chi- cago, and all points North, East, and West. The ifobile and Great JVorfJiern Rail- way. Steam ferry, 22 miles, to Tensas, 382 and thence 50 miles to Pollard, where it connects with the Alabama and F^ridn Railway to Montgomery, etc. A branch is in course of construction to Pensacola, Florida. The Memphis and Charleston Railway from Memphis, Tenn., via Corinth (93 miles), Tuscumbia (145), Decatur (188), Huntsville (212), to Stevenson (272 miles), and thence by the Nashville and Chattor nooga Railway to Chattanooga, and tlie East and Northeast. The Montgomery and West Point Rail- ivay from Montgomery, 88 miles to West Point, and thence 87 miles to Atlanta. The Alabama and Ihinessee River Raihvay, 135 miles from Selma to Blue Mountain. Steamers from Selma to Mo- bile. Shelby Springs on this route. The Alabama and Mississippi River Railway from Selma 30 miles to Union- town, and thence by stage to Demopolis and Lauderdale Springs. The Pensacola and Georgia Railway is in operation between Lake City and Quincy. It will eventually extend between Pensacola and Tallahassee, Florida. The Mobile and Girard Railway will traverse the State from Columbus, Ga., to Mobile. Completed from Montgomery 47 miles to Chunnuggee. MOBILE. 165 miles from New Orleans ; 197 from Montgomery. Mobile was founded by the French in 1699, and was ceded by that nation to Eng- land in 1763. To Lemoin D'Iberville, who has not inaptly been called the " father of Southern colonization," justly belongs the credit of founding the city. Historians, however, differ as to the precise date of the foundation. In 1780 England sur- rendered it to Spain, and that Government made it over to the United States in 1813. It was incorporated as a city in December 1819, the population numbering about 800 souls. It was one of the last points in the Confederacy occupied by Union forces during the late v/ar. This event took place April 12th, 1865. An explosion, which took place in the north end of the city on the 25th May following the occu- pation, destroyed twelve entire squares i Mobile.] ALABAMA. [Mobile. lof buildings, besides doing much damage in adjacent portions of the city. The city is pleasantly situated on a level, sandy plain which rises on the west bank of the Mobile River, immediately above its en- ; trance into the bay, and thirty miles from [the Gulf of Mexico. The city extends 1; along the river bank upwards of two I miles east and west, and nearly three imiles north and south, and is divided into 'seven wards. Population about 35,000. The plateau is elevated 15 feet above the |highest tides, and commands a fine view [of the river and bay, from which it receives refreshing breezes. The numerous ob- [structions and shallowness of the channel at low water render navigation not only difficult but hazardous for vessels drawing Ipore than seven feet of water. They j cannot come directly up the bay to the city, but pass up Spanish River six miles round a marshy island into Mobile River, land down this a short distance to the wharves. As a cotton mart and place of xport for this great staple. Mobile ranks ext in importance to New Orleans. In 850 the tonnage of the port was upwards f 23,000 tons; in 1860 it had increased 37,000. The city is supplied with ex- ellent water, brought a distance of two Itniles, and thence distributed through the jity. On Mobile Point is a 'lighthouse, ;he lantern of which is 55 feet above the sea level. Fort Morgan (formerly Fort Bower), and Fort James, opposite Dau- bhiu Island, mounting 69 guns sX the ime of the attack, command the entrance )f the hrrbor. Spanish Fort, and Fort Blakely, and Batteries Gladden, Tracy, '^fclntosh, and Huger are passed on the jivay up the Tensas River from Mobile to f ollard and Montgomery. Largo numbers f sailing vessels ply between Mobile and s^ew Orleans, the ports on the Gulf of exico, and the Atlantic coast. A daily ne of steamers run to New Orleans by of Lakes Bor'gne and Pontchartrain ; kewise up the Alabama River to Mont- :omery and other points. Mobile has many fine private residences, ut few buildings of a public character hich would interest the visitor. Cotton 8 still king in Alabama ; and Moljile, as er chief city and commercial emporium, 5 mainly devoted to the receipt, storage, ud shipment of this wonderful product. Government Street is the finest avenue and favorite promenade of the city. Public Square, between Dauphin and St. Francis Streets, is also a place of much resort. Both are adorned with live oaks and other shade-trees. The lofty dome of the Academy building, and the spires of the several church edifices on Govei-n- ment Street, afford a pleasing relief to the eye accustomed to dwell upon the dark- green foliage of the oak-trees which shade its whole length. The building at the in- tersection of Government with Dearborn Street, the property of Mr. Emanuel, is at present occupied as the headquarters of the District Commandant. The Custom House, at the corner of Royal and St. Francis Streets, is the most costly public edifice in the city. It is built of marble, and cost $250,000. The Theatre, Municipal Buildings, and Mar- kets are on Royal Street. The Battle House, the largest hotel in the city, pre- sents an imposing fa5ade of white marble, immediately facing the Custom House. The somewhat imposing ruin on the west side of Royal Street, nearly opposite the city market, marks the site of the Court House destroyed by fire during the war. Odd Fellows' Hall, on Royal Street, and Temperance Hall, corner of St. Michael and St. Joseph Streets, are conspicuous buildings. Among the religious and charitable insti- tutions of Mobile the most prominent are the Catholic Cathedral (Immaculate Con- ception), on Claiborne Street, between Dauphin and Conti Streets ; Christ Church (Episcopal), northwest corner of Church and St. Emanuel Streets ; First Presbyterian Church, northwest corner of Government and Jackson Streets ; and the Catholic Male and Female and Prot- estant Orphan Asylums, all situated within a short distance of the business portion of the city. Mobile possesses fourteen public schools, and a large num- ber of benevolent and other societies. Mobile College, on Government near Ann Street, is a flourishing institution. M. Saucier, at No. 96 Dauphin Street, exe- cutes excellent photographic views. Spring Hill is a pleasant suburb and re- treat six miles west of the city. The Roman Catholic College, commenced in 1832 un- der the direction of Bishop M. Porticr, is 383 Montgomery.] ALABAMA. [Seljia. located here. The former building was 123 feet in length, surmounted by a tower. Two additions, each 126 feet in length, have since been added, making the entire length SYS feet. It contains a hbrary of nearly 8,000 volumes, and a valuable col- lection of instruments, etc. A statue of the Virgin Mary, brought from Toulouse, France, stands in the rear of the building. The institution is under the management of the Jesuits, and has accommodation for upwards of 200 students. It is reached by the St. Francis Street cars. The Gidf Shell road affords a pleasant drive. The city possesses several good restaurants ; that conducted by M. Ed. Denechaud, No. 17 Royal Street, immedi- ately west of the Custom House, is the best. The Battle House is the leading hotel, almost the only one worthy the name; a good hotel being among the many " wants " of the city. The City Baths are reached from Royal and Conti Streets. Trains leave Mobile daily over the Great Northern Railway for Mont- gomery, and over the Mobile and Ohio Railway for all points north and west. Daily steamers for New Orleans ; also for Montgomery, Columbus, and Aberdeen, Mississippi. Momtg'Oinery. — 197 miles, by rail, from Mobile ; 839 from Washington. Hotels. — The Exchange is a well-kept house, centrally located for business travel. Ihe Central has been enlarged and refurnished. Montgomery, the capital, and second city of Alabama in population and trade, is situated on the Alabama River, 400 miles by water northeast of Mobile. It was laid out in 181*7, by Andrew Dexter, of Boston, and was formerly known as New Philadelphia. The State capital was moved here from Tuscaloosa, in 1847. It was named Montgomery after the la- mented General Richard Montgomery, who fell at Quebec. The original State House was destroyed by fire 14th Decem- ber, 1849, and the present structure erected in 1851, at a cost of about $75,- 000. It occupies an elevated position on Capitol Hill, at the head of Market Street, four squares east of the Court Square, and though of small size, is an imposing structure. From the gallery of the dome, which surmounts the roof, an extended 384 view of the city and adjacent country is obtained. Considerable interest attaches to Montgomery as the capital of the Con- federate Government during four months commencing 4th February, 1861, and ter- minating with its final removal to Rich- mond, in May of the same year. The city has suffered severely by fire ; first, in December, 1838, and again on the oc- casion of the rebel evacuation of the town, 11th April, 1865, when the cotton warehouses, containing 80,000 bales of cotton, were destroyed. Seven days after- wards the arsenal, railway depots, and foundry were destroyed by Federal troops. Next the Capitol, the prominent buildings are the Episcopal, Baptist, and Presby- terian churches, Theatre building. Court House, and Exchange Hotel, besides sev- eral private residences. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with good water from Artesian wells in the centre of the city. Population 10,000, and increasing. Two miles southeast of the city commen- ces what is known as the prairie region. Montgomery is connected directly by river and rail with Mobile and New Or- leans ; also by rail with Atlanta, Colum- bus, and all points north and east. The city is surrounded by a cordon of small earthworks, erected in 1864, and known as the defences of Montgomery. SelniJij in Dallas County, is located on the Alabama River, 70 miles below Montgomery. The Alabama and Tennessee River and Alabama and Mississippi River Railways meet at this point. It is reached from Montgomery by boat on the Alaba- ma River, the road not being in operation east of Selma. Population 6,000. ©pelilia is in Russell County, at the intersection of the Montgomery and West Point and Columbus Branch Rail- ways. It is distant from Montgomery 65 miles, from Atlanta 109 miles, and from Columbus 28 miles ; population 1,500. The Talladega Railway is graded 40 miles from this point. The Sledge House has accommodation for travellers. Tiascfflloosa. — Hotel, Mansion House. Tuscaloosa is upon the Black Warrior River, at the head of steamboat naviga-. tion, 125 miles by plank road from Mont- gomery. It is one of the principal towns of Alabama, and was once the capital. M Jb LORENCE. ALABAMA. [The Hill Kkgion. It is the seat of the University of Alaba- ma, established 1831. The University buildings are beautifully situated half a Imilc froni the river ; they are extensive, and cost $150,000. The State Lunatic lAsyluin and a United States Land Office fare located here also. Population about |4,000. The route from Tuscaloosa to ITuscambia is by stage. To New Lexing- ton, 24 ; Eldridge, 51 ; Thorn Hill, 73 ; jJRusselville, 103; Tuscumbia, 111 miles. 'Tu.sciim'bia., on the Memphis and Charleston Eailway, 145 miles east of jMemphis, is a thriving town, one mile ^outh of the Tennessee River. Steam- oats from Louisville and Cincinnati, on he Ohio, ascend the Tennessee River as "ar as Tuscumbia in good stages of water, ere is one of the largest and best springs f water in the State. Florence, five miles from Tuscuni- ia, is reached by a branch railway. It |s considered the head of navigation on he Tennessee River, although boats ply bove the Muscle Shoals. The fine bridge cross the river at this point, which cost 150,000, was destroyed during the late The Muscle Shoals are an extensive evies of rapids. The descent of the water ere is 100 feet in the course of 20 miles, he neighborhood is a famous resort of ild ducks and geese, which come in reat flocks in search of the shell-fish, om which the rapids derive their name, oats cannot pass this part of the Ten- essee except at times of very high water. canal was once built around the shoals, ut it has been abandoned, and is falling to decay. Hiisitsville is a beautiful moun- lin tovm on the Memphis and Charleston ailway, 212 miles east of Memphis, and 7 miles west of Chattanooga. It cou- lius a few handsome buildings, among lY which are the Court House, U. S. Land Office, Female Seminary, and Bank. From Tuscaloosa the route thither is by stage. To McRath's, 32 ; Jonesboro', 44 ; Elyton, 56 ; Mount Pinson, 70 ; Blountsville, 96 ; Oleander, 120 ; Lacy Springs, 132 ; Whitesburg, 139 ; Huntsville, 149. The Hill Region. — The upper part of Alabama is picturesquely broken by the Alleghanies, which end their long journey hereabouts. In the northeast extremity of the State there are many fine land- scape passages. The Nickajach Cave en- ters the Raccoon Mountain a few miles above Chattanooga and the Lookout Mountain, Tennessee, and immediately finds its way into Georgia. A magnificent rocky arch of some eighty feet span forms the mouth of the cavern, high up in the mountain-side. This cave is said to have been the headquarters of the leader of a band of negroes. He was knawn by the name of "Nigger Jack," hence the name of the cave. The Natural Bridge, in Walker County, is thought by some travellers to be more curious than the celebrated scene of the same kind in Virginia. Mineral Springs abound in the upper part of Alabama. The Blount Springs, in Blount County, near the Black Warrior River, are much resorted to ; so also are the Bladen Springs, in Choctaw County, in the western part of the State, near the line of the Mobile and Ohio Railway. In Franklin County (see Tuscumbia) is a spring which dis- charges 20,000 cubic feet of water per minute. It forms a considerable brook, which enters the Tennessee 2^ miles be- low. There are valuable sulphur springs in Shelby and Talladega Counties. The route to the Shelby Springs is via Colam- biana, on the Alabama and Tennessee River Railway. 385 Mississippi.j MISSISSIPPI. [Mississippi. MISSISSIPPI. I Mississippi, like Alabama, was first visited by Europeans at the time (1541) when the Spanish expedition bore the banner of De Soto through the great belt of forest swamps which lie upon the Mexican Gulf, from the palm-covered plains of Florida on the east, to the far- off floods of the mighty " Father of Wa- ters," on the west. The enmity of the Indians and other obstacles prevented any permanent occupation of the new country at this period. In 1682 La Salle descended the Mississippi River, and vis- ited the territory now embraced in this State. Two years after, he set out again for the region, with a resolute band of colonists, but the venture failed before it was fairly begun, various misfortunes pre- venting his ever reaching his destination. Iberville, a Frenchman, made the third attempt at a settlement, but with no bet- ter success than his predecessors met with. A beginning was, however, at length accomplished by Bienville and a party of Frenchmen. This expedition settled in 1Y16 at Fort Rosalie, now the city of Natchez. A dozen years later (1728), a terrible massacre of the new- comers was made by their jealous Indian neighbors, which checked, but yet did not stay, the " course of empire." Other sanguinary conflicts with the aborigines took place in 1*735, '39, and '52, with the same final result — the defeat and devas- tation of the Indian tribes, and the tri- umph of the invading whites. The ter- ritory fell into the possession of the Brit- ish crown upon the conclusion of the peace of Paris, in 1763. The strength of the new colony was augmented about this period by portions of the dispersed Acadian communities of Nova Scotia ; and soon after by colonists from the New England territories, by way of the Mis- 386 sissippi and Ohio Rivers. In 1V98 the colony was organized as a Territory, Ala- bama forming a portion thereof. The history of Mississippi, as a State, began December 10, 1817. This State stands third in the order of secession from the United States. This event transpired January 9, 1861. Much of the area of Mississippi is occu- pied by swamp and marsh tracts. There is within her territory, between the mouth of the Yazoo River and Memphis, in Ten- nessee, a stretch of this description, cover- ing an area of nearly 7,000 square miles. It is sometimes a few miles broad, and sometimes not less than a hundred. These low portions of the State are subject to inundation at the time of freshets, and great is the cost and care necessary to protect them, as well as all the lands of a similar character lying along the Missis- sippi. Banks (levees) are built along the river shores to restrain the floods, but sometimes a breach (crevasse) occurs, re- sulting in gTcat damage to property, and no little risk to life. Where the country is not thus occupied by swampy or marshy stretches, it sweeps away in broad table-lands, shaped into grand te^ races, or steps, descending from the east- ward to the waters of the river. The steps are formed by two ranges of bluffs, which sometimes extend to the river shores, and rise abruptly in precipices of fifty and even a hundred feet perpendicu- lar height. These blufis are features of great and novel attraction to the voyager on the Mississippi River. The climate of Mississippi has the same general charac- teristics as the other Southern States, passing from the temperatures of the torrid zone, southward, to more tempc^ ate airs above ; unlike Alabama, however, and the Southeastern States of Georgia i ElTBRS.] MISSISSIPPI. [Jackson. and Carolina, it has no bold mountain lands within its area. The winters here and in the neighboring State of Louisiana have a temperature a few degrees lower than that of the same latitudes near the Atlantic. The fig and the orange grow well in the lower part of the State, and the apple flourishes in the higher hilly regions. Cotton is the great staple of Mississippi, the State being the third in the Union in this product. The soil is well adapted to the growth of Indian corn, tobacco, hemp, flax, silk, and all species of grains and grasses. Live stock is also raised to a considerable extent. Missis- sippi has no very extensive mineral prod- ucts ; or, if she has, they have not as yet been developed. Some gold has been found, but in no important quantity. Most of the water courses here are tribu- taries of the Mississippi. They run chieriy in a southwest direction, following the general slope of the country. Some lesser waters, in the eastern sections, find their way to the Gulf of Mexico, as tributaries of the Pearl River, in the centre of the State, and of the Tombigbee and Pasca- goula, in Eastern Mississippi and Western Alabama. The Yazoo and the Big Black Rivers drain the northwest portion of the State, and are the largest tributaries of the Mississippi from this State. Among the principal resorts for tourists are Coop- er's Wells, in Hinds County, 12 miles west of Jackson, and Lauderdale Springs, miles north of Meridian, both of svhich have valuable medicinal properties. The State is divided into sixty counties. Vicksburg, Natchez, Columbus, and Jack- on are the largest towns. The white copulation before the war amounted to J53,899. Rivers. — The Yazoo River is formed by he Tallahatchee and Yallabusha Rivers, vhich unite at Leflore, in Carroll County, t is a deep and narrow stream, and slug- gish in its movements. It is nearly three lundred miles in length, exclusive of its I (ranches, and is navigable for steamboats a all its course, and at all seasons, from ts mouth to its sources. Its way leads hrough great alluvial plains of extreme ertility, covered everywhere by luxuriant otton-fields. Vicksburg is twelve miles be- 3w the union of the Yazoo with the Missis- sippi. The Tallahatchee, the largest branch of the Yazoo, has a length almost as great as that river, 100 miles of which may be traversed by steamers. The JBig Black River is some 200 miles long. Its course is much the same as that of the Yazoo, as also the character of the country which it traverses. The Pearl River pursues a devious course from the northeast part of the State, 250 miles, to Lake Borgne, and thence to the Gulf of Mexico. Jack- son, the capital of the State, is upon the Pearl River, southwest of the central re- gion. Small boats sometimes ascend the river as far as this place, though the nav- igation is almost destroyed by the ac- cumulation of sand-bars and drift-wood. Railways. — The Mobile and Ohio Rail- loay extends first along the western edge of Alabama, and afterwards near the eastern line of Mississippi, northward from the city of Mobile, Alabama, through Meridian, Okolona, Corinth, and Jackson, Tennessee, 472 miles to Columbus, Ken- tucky. The Southern Mississippi extends at present eastward from Jackson, the capital of the State, 96 miles to Meridian, and westward 44|^ miles to Vicksburg. The Mississippi and Tennessee extends southward from Memphis 99 miles to Granada, from whence it is continued by the Mississippi Central, and the New Or- leans, Jackson, and Great Northern road to New Orleans. The Mississippi Central Railway, from Jackson, Tennessee, 23*7 miles, south to Canton, Mississippi. At Jackson it meets the Mobile and Ohio road north from Mobile, and at Canton it is continued southward by the New Or- leans and Great Northern Railway to New Orleans. The New Orleans, Jackson, and Great Northern Railway, from New Orleans 206 miles north to Canton, Mis- sissippi, and thence by the Mississippi Central and connections north and east. 4iirei&a,«io.. — Hotel, SIienHe House. This town is pleasantly situated at the head of steamboat navigation on the Yallabusha River. It is 100 miles south of Memphis. The Mississippi and Ten- nessee and the Mississippi Central Rail- ways unite here. Population, 2,000. •f a. c l£ s o ML. — Hotel, JBoioman House. Jackson, the capital of Mississippi, is upon the Pearl River, southwest of the 387 Natchez.] MISSISSIPPI. [Holly Springs centre of the State. It is connected by railway, 44J miles, with Vicksburg, on the Mississippi River. The Southern Mississippi road extends 95 miles east of Jackson, to Meridian. The State Capitol, Executive Mansion, the Penitentiary, Lunatic Asylum, and a United States Land Office, are the most prominent buildings. Population, about 6,000. Cooper' & Well, 12 miles west of Jackson, is noted for its mineral waters. Hatclaez. — Hotel, Mansion House. Natchez, on the Mississippi River, 279 miles ataove New Orleans, is the most populous and commercial city in the State. It ia built upon a bluff, 200 feet above the water, overlooking the great cypress swamps of Louisiana. The lower part of the town, where the heavy ship- ping business is done, is called Natchez- under-the-Hill. In Seltzertown, near Nat- chez, there is a remarkable group of ancient mounds, one of which is 35 feet high. Smaller remains of the kind are found yet nearer the town. The broken and varied character of the country about Natchez is in most agreeable contrast with the flat lands on the opposite side of the river. The streets are wide and regu- lar, and, to a great extent, elegantly built. The public edifices are well constructed, and the private mansions are pleasant- ly surrounded with trees and gardens. The town is the centre of an extensive trade, continually upon the increase. The Court House, Orphan Asylum, and Ma- sonic Hall, are fine buildings. Steamers ply daily between this and all points on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. CaiitOM, 206 miles north of New Orleans, 18V south of Memphis, is a thriving place. It is the county seat of Madison County. Pearce House. Vicl4:sl»M.]rg". — Hotel, Prentiss House. Vicksburg is upon the Mississippi, 400 miles above New Orleans, and 44-^ miles from Jackson, the capital of the State. Population, about 4,000. The site is elevated and commands a fine view of the Mississippi River. Next to Natchez, it is the most thriving commercial point be- tween New Orleans and Memphis. West- ward it has railroad communications by means of the Vicksburg, Shreveport, and Texas Railway. The city was captured from the rebels, after a protracted siege, by General Grant, July 4, 1863. Molly SpriMg-s, 188 miles north of Jackson, and 25 miles north of Grand Junction, is a beautiful village, distiii- guished not less for the excellence of its schools than for the hospitality of its inhabitants. The Chalmers Institute and St. Thomas' Hall for boys, the Frank- lin Female College, and the Holly Springs Female Institute, are among the most conspicuous institutions. Being on the main through line of travel between New Oi'leans and the North, and near the line of the Memphis and Charleston Railway (Grand Junction), it is a most advanta- geous point for tourists to stay and make up their routes. The vicinity abounds in attractive scenery and pleasant drives. It was the scene of active operations during the late war. The city was occu- pied by Union troops from General Hal- leck's army, June 17, 1862. On the 20th December, the post, under the command of Colonel Murphy, surrendered to Gen- eral Van Dorn, of the rebel army. The Lauderdale Springs, sulphur and chalyb- eate, are in Lauderdale County, near the line of the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 18 miles north of Meridian. The State Or- phan Home, for the support and education of the poor children of deceased Confed- erate soldiers, in course of erection, is situated on the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 18 miles above Meridian. CoItomiIjtuis is on the left bank of the Tombigbee River, 60 miles south of Aberdeen, and 145 miles northeast of Jackson. Regular steamboat communi- cation with Mobile. Population 3,500. A branch railway extends southwest to Artesia, on the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 219 miles north of Mobile. Aluersleem, a town of some 4,000 inhabitants, is upon the Tombigbee River, . 165 miles northeast of Jackson, 60 north of Columbus, and 470 from Mobile, by water. Steamboats ply regularly from Mobile. It is reached from the Mobile and Ohio Railway Junction via Gainesville, 8 miles distant. [Louisiana.] LOUISIANA. [LouiaiAJSA LOUISI AS"A. I Louisiana is one of the most interest- In"- States in the Union, not only on ac- jount of the romantic incidents of its avly history, but for the peculiar features f its landscape, and its unique social haracter and life. The traveller, looking upon the face of lie Great River, will recall the bright liopes of De Soto, when he, too, so gazed ith delighted wonder ; then he will muse pon that hapless destiny which gave the allant explorer a grave beneath the very loods which he was the first to find and ■nter, with such exultant anticipations, 'hen he will i-emember the visit of La Salle to the mouth of the river, in 1691 — text, the attempted settlement, in 1699, nder the brave lead of Iberville; then omes the enterprise of Crozart, to whom country was granted by Louis XIV., 1712 ; next comes its history from 111, while ia possession of the famous reuch financier John Law, and his com- any of rash speculators, with all the in- dents of the story of the brilliant but eeting " Mississippi Bubble ; " next the storation of the territory to the French rown, its trausfer to Spain in 1*762, its btrocession to France in 1800, and its nal acquisition by the United States in |803, when this Government purchased it r $11,500,000, and the further payment certain claims of American citizens ainst the Government of France. Of e history of this State in its participa- on in our national ti'ials, and especially the memL'able event of the battle of w Orleans] and its still more recent oc- ipation by the Federal forces under ■11. fiutler, we sliall speakjfoy and by Louisiana in no part of its territory ■Mches a gi'eater elevation. than 200 feet )Ove the level of the Gu'lf of Mexico, Ihile very much of the Southern region is so law that it becomes inundated at high water. Marshes extend from the coast; next come the low prairie lands which approach the central parts of the State ; above, the country west of the basin of the Mississippi grows broken and hilly. In the extreme northwest is a marshy tract of fifty miles in length and six in breadth, full of small lakes, made by the interlacings of the arms of Red River. It is estimated that an area of between eight and nine thousand square miles-, lying respectively ujjon the Missis- sippi and Red Rivers, is subject to' inun- dation annually. About three-fifths of the whole area of the State is alluvial and diluvial ; the rest is occupied by the tei'tiary formation, and contains coal and iron, ochre, salt, gyp- sum, and marl. In the vicinity of Har- risonburg, near the northeastern line of the State, and among the freestone hills which rise hereabouts precipitously to a height of eighty and one hundred feet, large quartz crystals have been found, and quantities of jasper, agates, corne- lians, sardonyx, onyx, feldspar, crystal- ized gypsum, alumine, chalcedony, lava, meteoric stones, and fossils. The exhalations from the marshes in the long, hot summers affect the atmos- phere, and make these districts not only unapproachable to strangers, but danger- ous to the acclimated, at the season when the especial features of the landscape may be seen in their greatest glory. Cotton and sugar-cane are the great products of this State. Of the latter sta- ple, it yielded in 1850 nine-tenths of the whole supply raised in the United States. The most pi-oductive district of the State is a belt of land called the " Coast," lying up and down the Mississippi in the neigh- borhood of New Orleans. It consists of 389 Nkw Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New ORLEAVg, that part of the bottom, or alhivion, of the Mississippi, which commences with the first cultivation above the Balize, about forty miles below the capital, and extends about one hundred and fifty miles above it. This belt on each side of the river is secured from overflow by an embankment called the " levee." We shall have occa- sion to speak of it iu our explorations through the city. The bays and lakes, formed by expan- sions of the rivers in the marsh lands near the coast, make a marked feature in the landscape of Louisiana, as Lakes Pontchartrain, Borgne, Maurepas, etc. Some of these waters we shall recur to again when we reach New Orleans. Except the Mississippi and the Red Rivers, of which the reader will find ac- counts elsewhere in our volume, the streams in Louisiana do not offer very great attractions to the traveller. NEW ORLEANS. . 1,653 miles from New York ; 1,435 from Washington. New Orleans, the metropolis of the Southwest, is built within a great bend of the Mississippi River (whence its familiar name of the Crescent City), ninety-four miles from its debouchure into the Gulf of Mexico, in latitude 29"57' north, longitude 90' 8' west. It was named in honor of the Duke of Orleans, Regent of France during the minority of Louis XV. It was the place selected for the seat of the mon- archy meditated in the treason of Aaron Burr. Great was the alarm of the citi- zens in January, 1804, at that prospective insurrection. It is built on land gently descending from the river toward a marshy gi-ound in the rear, and, from two to four feet be- low the level of the river at high-water mark. It is prevented from overflowing the . city by an embanliment of earth, termed the Levee, which is substantially constructed, for a great distance along the banks of the river. This levee is fif- teen feet wide and four feet high, and forms a delightful promenade during the fall and winter months. It is accessible 390 at all times by vessels of the largest de- scription coming from the ocean, and its advantages of communication with the upper country, and the whole valley of the Mississippi, are at once stupendous and unrivalled. The site was selected by Gov. Bienville in 1*718, against much op- position, the site having previously been at Biloxi. It was abandoned in 1*719, a rise in the Mississippi having inundated it. It was again selected by Delormc in 1 1*722 as the principal post in the province. > It then consisted of about one hundred cabins, and contained a population of • nearly two hundred and fifty. Louisiana < was ceded to the TTnited States in 180.3, after which date the population of New Orleaus rapidly increased. In 1810 it amounted to 24,552, having trebled in i seven years under the administration of its new government. We append a tabular statement, show- ing the growth of population since that time : 1S15 82,947 1880 49,826 1820 41,850 1.S40 102,191 1825 45,886 1850 160,000 „ • 1860 187,000 . II'' This levee has been frequently broken through by the river. In May, 1816, a crevasse occurred about nine miles above • New Orleaus, which destroyed several plantations and inundated the rear of the i city to the depth of several feet : again in June, 1844, and last in 1855. The dyke or levee has been strengthened, and is now believed to be strong enough to resist further encroaclmieut. This city is the chief cotton mart of < the world. Not unfrequently from a thousand to fifteen hundred steamers and flatboats may be seen lying at the Levee, that have floated down the stream hun- dreds of miles with the rich produce of the interior country. Steamboats of the largest class may be observed arriving and departing almost hourly ; and, except in the summer months, at its whaiTes may be seen hundreds of ships and other sailing craft from all quarters of the! globe, landing the productions of other climes, and neceiving cargoes of cotton, sugar, tobacco, lumber, provisions, etc. Indeed, nothing can present a more busy, bustling scene than exists here in the loading end unloading of vessels and New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Oe leans. [steamers, with hundreds of drays trans- porting the various and immense prod- ucts which come hither from the West. The receipts and exports of cotton from New Orleans exceeded in the years 1859-60 two milUons and a quarter of (bales, the value of which exceeded one hundred milhons of dollars. Besides cot- ton, a vast amount of other products, as sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, etc., are re- ceived at New Orleans, and thence sent abroad. The total value of these prod- ucts for the year ending Sept. 1, 1859, amounted to $172,952,664. Besides its Exports, New Orleans has a large import trade of coffee, salt, sugar, iron, dry- goods, hquors, etc., the yearly value of svhich exceeds $17,000,000. The ordinance of secession was passed y the State Legislature Jan. 26, 1861. n April of the following year Forts ackson and St. Phihp were successfully assed by Eear-Admiral Farragut, who rrived before the city on the 29 th of the ame month. On the 1st of May, 1862, teneral B. F. Butler landed and took ossession of the city. Hotels. — The St. Charles, bounded by t. Charles, Gravier, and Common Streets, s one of the institutions of New Orleans, estroyed by fire in 1850, it was re- mit by the close of 1852 at a cost of ^600,000. Its predecessor, the old St. harles, was long regarded as the pride if New Orleans. The present structure accommodation for nearly 1,000 ests. 0. E. Hall proprietor. The St. Louis, formex-ly knowa as the City Exchange, ia located on St. Louis t)etween Royal and Chartres, in the French Quarter of the city. It was reopened fanuary 10, 1866, with new furniture, ifter being closed nearly four years, and js now in the full tide of business again. it holds the same high rank as the St. pharlcs, and is under the same proprietor- ihip. The St. James, Magazine Street be- iween Gravier and Natchez, occupies the lite of the old " Banks' Arcade," a place )f great public resort previous to 1858. t has been recently repainted and fur- lished, and has accommodation for 400 fersons. The Oily Hotel, corner of Camp and ommon Streets, is much frequented by up-river merchants and steamboat meii- The rates of fare at the St. Charles and. St. Louis are $5 per day ; at the St. James and City $4. Places op Amusement — Theatres, ETC. — New Orleans is well supplied with public amusements, these being esteemed as among the first of human necessities. The Opera House, corner of Bourbon and Toulouse Streets, erected in 1859, is an imposing edifice. It has seats for two thousand, and is fitted up in the style of the Theatre Franyaise, Paris. The St. Charles, on St. Charles be- tween Poydras and Perdido Streets, occupies the site of the former St. Chai'les, destroyed by fire in 1842. Ben. De Bar lessee. Academy of Music, St. Charles be- tween Perdido and Commercial Streets, built in 1853. Performances day and night. Spalding & Bidwell proprietors. Varieties, Gravier between Carondolet and Baronne Streets. Orleaiis Theatre, corner of Orleans and Bourbon Streets. This is the oldest " Temple of the Drama" in the city, if not in the South. It was opened in No- vember, 1819. The performances are in the French language. It is frequently used, together with the adjoining build- ing, for balls, parties, etc. The American, burnt July 30, 1842 ; rebuilt and reopened December 5, 1843, and again destroyed by fire in 1854 ; has not been rebuilt. It occupied a central site on Poydras Street near Lafayette Square, now covered by an ornamental cast-iron building intended for business purposes. Public Buildings. — The Custom House, Canal Street near the Levee. This noble structure is built of Quincy granite brought from the celebrated quarries of Massachusetts. Next to the National Capitol at Washington, it is the largest building in the United States. It covers an area of 8*7,333 superficial feet. Its main front, on Canal Street, is 334 feet ; that on Custom House Street, 252 feet ; on the new Levee, 310 feet, and on the old Levee, 297 feet. Its height is 82 feet. The long-room, or chief business apartment, is 116 feet by 90 feet, and is lighted by 50 windows. Commenced in 1848, the erection of this unmense struo- 391 New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orlkaxs ture was steadily prosecuted througli four successive administrations until the out- break of the Rebellion, when work was necessarily suspended. The building, it is much to be regretted, has suffered se- verely from the weather and the various uses to which it has been put. A tem- porally roof has been lately added at a cost of $25,000; but far from affording adequate protection, it seems rather to have proved a source of injury than oth- erwise. The basement of this building is ap- propriated to the uses of the Post Office, but being both dark and damp it is ill- suited for such a purpose. The offices of the Postmaster and Special Agent and their deputies are on the right and left of the Canal Street entrance. The long corridors which surround the main apart- ment in the second story, afford access to the offices of the Collector and Surveyor of the Port, the Collector and Assessor of Internal Revenue, U. S. Marshal, and other Government officers. The United States courts are also located in this biiUding. It is noteworthy rather for its immense size and the important interest it represents than for any attraction of its own. The Mini ( U. S. branch). The build- ing formerly used for coining the public moneys in New Orleans, and etill known as the Mint, is situated on what was once called Jackson Square, near the former site of Fort St. Charles, now known as the corner of Esplanade and New Levee Streets. It is built of brick, stuccoed in imitation of brownstone, in the Ionic style of architecture, and being 282 feet in length, 108 feet deep, and three stories high, presents an im- posing appearance. It was begun in 1885 and finished in 183'7, at a cost of $182,000. A visit to the coin room will repay the stranger. On the 25th Janua- ry, 1861, upwards of three quarters of a million dollars were taken from this room by a committee of citizens headed by Governor Roman. The Superintendent, M. F. Bonzano, succeeded in destroying the dies, and thus saved the Government and the country from the issue of spurious money. The window from which the flagstaff projected on which the rebel Muniford was hung by order of General 392 Butler, June 1, 1862, is still pointed out. It is under the front portico of the main building, and will always be sm object of interest. The City Hall, at the intersection of St. Charles and Lafayette (formerly He- via) Streets, fronting 90 feet on the former and 208 feet on the latter, is a handsome marble structure in the Grecian Ionic style of architecture. The municipal hall was formerly located on the upper side of the cathedral in Jackson Square, but that building being insufficient for the rapidly increasing business of the' city, the present structure was erected and finished in 1850, since which time it has been occupied for city purposes. Here are located the Mayor's office, the bureaus of " Finance" and " Streets and Landings," the offices of the Treasurer, Comptroller, Street Commissioner, Regis- ! ter, etc. It also serves at present as the official headquarters of the Governor and Secretary of State. Lyceum Hall, in the second story of this building, is a com- modious apartment, 61 by 84 feet, well adapted for the purpose intended. The State and city libraries occupy suitable rooms in the building. (See Libraries.) The grand entrance from St. Charles i Street is by a flight of steps 18 in number, of Quincy granite, of which material the ! basement is constructed. Cost, .$120,000. n Odd Felloios' Hall, a solid square edi- fice on the corner of Camp and Lafayette Streets, and immediately facing the upper corner of the square. It is four stories high, built of brick, stuccoed and painted white, and cost $210,000. The base- ment is occupied by stores. On the sec- ond, or main, floor is the concert hall, the finest in the South. It is 132 by 56 feet and 35 feet high, and lighted by three large chandeliers. The upper sto- ries are used by the several lodges of Masons and Odd Fellows. The Masonic Hall, on St. Charles Street, at its intersection with Perdido, is an imposing edifice, fronting 103 feet on the former and extending back 100 feet on the latter street. It was designed and built by Gallier, a local architect of considerable repute, in 1845, and cost, including the land, $90,000. The Merchants' Exchange, on Royal, south of Canal Street, was formerly a JNew Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orleans. jjlace of great resort. Since the removal of the Post Office to the Custom House building, its glory has departed, and it exists now in little more than name. It (vas erected in 1835, from designs by .akin, is composed of marble, and cost ^100,000. Charitable Institutions. — There is robably no city in the United States hich contains so many benevolent in- titutions, in proportion to its popula- ion, as New Orleans. Among the most )roiiuncnt are the hospitals and male and female orphan asylums. The United States Marine Honpital, a sommodious brick edifice, corner Com- on and Broad Streets, in the rear of |he city proper, and easily reached by treet cars on Canal Street. The hospital uilding was formerly located in Mac- onough, opposite the city. It occupied whole square, measuring 350 feet each ray. It was three stories high, built in he Gothic style, from designs by Mondale nd Reynolds. It was commenced in 834, extended in 1844, and was used )r hospital purposes up to the breaking ut of tlie war, wheu,ilike many other overnment buildings, it suffered at the ands of its enemies. It was used as a owder magazine by the Confederate tithoritics, and by them blo\vn up. raong the objects of interest in New rleans, especially worthy of notice, is — The Charily Hospital^ on Common treet, between St. Mary's and Gironde. i is conspicuous, not more for its great than for the air of neatness ,and )mfort which prevails in and around it. tie first hospital for indigent persons es- blished in the city appears to have ood on Rampart, near Toulouse Street. was constructed of wood, and was own down in lYtO. Another, built of ■ick, and completed in 1*786, at a cost ' $114,000, was entirely consumed by •e in 1810. Tlie present fine edifice was jeeted 1812-14, at an expense of 50,000. The attendant medical fac- ty are among the ablest in the city and ate. It has accommodation for 450 tients. The ruins of the Town Ahns Hovse oc- py a prominent locale on the Levee, in p south end of the city. This building is occupied during the war as a hospi- tal, and afterwards by colored troops as a barracks. It was destroyed by fire September 1st, 1865. Among the prominent charities of the city are, the Asylum of St. Elizabeth, cor- ner of Magazine and Josephine Streets, and the liaison de Sante, corner of Canal and Claiborne Streets. Lady visitors especially ought to see the interior of the former institution. It is a very model of neat- ness and good order. It was erected in 1853, and is under the charge of Supe- rior Angelica and fourteen sisters. The Female Orphan Asylum, at the intersection of Camp and Prytania Streets, has accommodation for 160 children. It was commenced in 1836, and finished in 1840, at a cost of $42,000, of which nearly one-half was the result of private subscription. The land was donated by Madame Poucher and her brother, Francis Soulet. The .Poydras Female Orphan Asylum,, on Julia Street, founded ISl*?, and the Male Orphan Asylum, in the adjoining parish of Lafayette, are both flourishing institutions. There are several other noble charities in the city. Admission by application to the Superior or Superin- tendent in charge. The Workhouses of the second and third municipalities are worthy a visit from those interested in moral and social reform, especially of youth. The former was built in 1841 ; the latter, which stands on Moreau Street, near Piety, the site of the old Washington Market, was erected years later. Many of these insti- tutions have been recently consolidated, and located at the foot of Girod Street. The City Prisons, which comprise a parish jail and a police jail, are on Or- leans and Ann Streets, opposite the market place, main entrance on Orleans Street. They are three stories in height, built of brick, and plastered to imitate granite. The building is surmounted by a bclvi- dere, with an alarm bell. The Court-houses are on the right and left of the cathedral on Jackson Square. They were constructed toward the close of the last century, through the liberality of the founder of the cathedral, Don Andre Almonaster, and are conspicuous for their style of architecture, which ia Tusco-Doric. 393 New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orlkans. Churches. — The city contains many large, but few elegant, church edifices. Among the religious denominations, as might be expected, in a community so largely composed of French, the Roman Catholic largely predominates. There are upwards of fifty church edifices, about one-half of which are Roman Catholic. Of these, the Cathedral of St. Lovis is the most noteworthy. It stands on Char- tres Street, on the east side of the Place d^ Amies (Jackson Square), and arrests the attention of the stranger by its vener- able and antique appearance. It lays no claim to architectural display, though there are few church edifices in the Union at once so imposing and impressive. The foundation was laid in 1*792, and the building completed in 1794, by Don Andre Almonaster, perpetual regidor, and Alva- rez Real, of the province. It was altered and enlarged, in 1850, from designs by De Louilly. This building is almost in- separably connected with the memory of the venerable Pfere Antonio De Sedella (Father Antonio), curate of the parish for nearly fifty years, Avho died in 1829, and whose remains are interred here. The paintings on the roof of the building are by Canova and Rossi, and are fine specimens of art. In the square in front of this cathedral General Jackson re- viewed his troops (December 18th, 1814), prior to his victory over the Britisli. The Church of the Immaculate Con- ception (Jesuit), comer of Baronne and Common Streets, is a striking edifice, in the Moorish style of architecture. It was commenced in 1852, and opened for worship by Pere Canbiaso in IBS'/. One hundred and seventy thousand dollars have been expended in its construction, and the towers are still wanting to com- plete it. High mass, both here and at the cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sun- day. The Presbyterian Church, fronting on Lafayette Square, in the Greco-Doric style, is a fine edifice, much admired for its elegant steeple. It was built in 1835 at a cost of |)55,000. It was enlarged in 1844, and has sittings for 1,000. St. Patrick's, on Camp Street, north of Lafayette Square, is a fine Gothic struc- ture, with a tower 190 feet high. The style is said to have been taken from the 394 famous minster at York, England, agree- ably to the designs of the Messrs. Dakin. The cost was about $100,000. Among the Episcopal church edifices, Chrisfs, corner of Canal and Rampart Streets, and Annunciation, overlooking Annunciation Square, are the most promi- nent. The Unitarian Church, corner of St. Charles and Julia, St. Alphonso, on Con- stance, and St. Mary's, on Josephine Street, are new and elegant buildinj^s. The two last named are Roman Catholic. One of the most interesting relics of the early church history of New Orleans is the old Ursuline Convent and Chapel on Conde Street. This building, of a quaint style of architecture, was erected, according to a Spanish inscription on a marble tablet, in the middle of the fa9ade in 1*787, during the reign of Carlos III., by Don Andre Almonaster. It is now occupied and known as the Bishop's Palace. St. Anioine!s Chapel, at the corner of Rampart and Conti Streets, was erected in 1826. It is generally known as the Mortuary Chapel, all funeral ceremonies of resident Catholics being performed here. Colleges, Schools, etc. — The Univer- sity of Louisiana is on Common Street, near Baronne, and occupies the whole front of the block. It has a prosperous law school and a medical school. This university was organized in 1849. The medical college, which stands in the centre of the block, has a fa9ade of 100 feet.. This department was established in 1835. It has a large anatomical museum, and extensive and valuable col- lections of many kinds. The State made an appropriation of $25,000 toward the purchase of apparatus, drawings, plates, etc., illustrative of the various branches of medical study. The college had, m the year 1859, no less than 400 students. There is also a school of medicine, num- bering 200 students. Built 1836. The public school system of New Orleans embraces four high schools and thirty-eight primary and intermediate district schools for the youth of both sexes, distributed in every part of the city. There are also eighteen schools for colored children, under charge of the Board of Education for Freedmen, established March 22, 1864 I New Obleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orleans. For location of schools, number of gcholars, names of teachers, and other information respecting the school system of the city, the reader is referred to local directories and reports of the respective boards. One of the most attractive public places of literary resort, and the only one 2ombinin<^ the essential features of a laews reading-room and exchange, are the [Mei-chants' Reading Booms, conducted by E. E. Overall, corner of St. Charles ,nd Commercial Alley. Files of the [orincipal American and European jour- pals are kept. A chess-room is attached. stranger in New Orleans should omit ;; to Overall's. Parks, Squares, etc. — Like most southern cities. New Orleans is dotted ver with numerous squares with shade rees and gravel walks, where the lounger ir pedestrian, wearied with his journey- ags, may draw aside for retirement and est. Since the introduction of street ailroads, these public squares are less esorted to than in former years, when hey formed the most attractive feature |f the place. The JVcw City Park, the largest of ' ese enclosures, and the only one having ny claims to be considered a " park," is ear the northeasterly boundary of the "ty, in the neighborhood of Metarie Road d Monroe Avenue. It embraces 55 ty squares, an area equal to about 150 cres, and is tastefully laid out. Access y the Canal Street and Ridge Road cars, •om the Monument. Jackson Square, formerly known as the lace d'Armes, covers the centre of the ver-front of the Old Town Plot, now le Pirst District. It is a place of favor- ! resort. Its sliell-strewn paths, its autiful trees and shrubbery, afford an ^reeable relief to the dust and din of the isy levee and markets. The imposing ont of the cathedral and courts of justice i seen to great advantage from the er entrance of the square. The eques- lian statue of Gen. Jackson, by MiUs, lands in the centre. A similar statue placed in Lafayette Square, in the rear the White House at Washington. Lafayette Square, in the Second Dis- Ict, bounded by St. Charles and Camp reets, is another handsome souare. The fine marble front of the City Hall, the tapering spire of the Presbyterian Church, and the massive-looking fa5ade of the Odd Fellows' Hall, present a strik- ing appearance. To the visitor and stroUer in the west end. Annunciation Square and Tivoli Circle, at the head of St. Charles Street, are worthy a visit. The former has a few tastefully built private residences in its immediate neighborhood. Circus Place ( Congo Square), on Ram- part Street, between St. Ann and St. Peter. Like other public grounds in the city, it is a delightful place to lounge away a summer evening. It was former- ly known as Congo Park, and is the place where the negroes, in the "good old times before the war," were accus- tomed to congregate and go through the double shuffle to the favorite air of " Old Virginia never tire." Being in the color- ed district, it is still much frequented by them, but the dancing has given place to other pleasures less harmless and at- tractive. Washington Square, in the neighbor- hood of the Elysian Fields in the Third District, is a pleasant promenade. These several resorts are easily reached by street cars from Canal Street. The Streets of New Orleans are, for the most part, wide, well paved, and regularly laid out, usually intersecting each other at right angles, and, since the war, kept passably clean. The broadest is Canal Street, with a width of 190^ feet, with a grass plot 25 feet wide, extending in the centre through its whole length. Esplan- ade, Rampart, and Basin Streets are sim- ilarly embellished. The houses are built chiefly of brick, and are usually four or five stories high. The Libraries of New Orleans are few and unimportant. The collection of books forming the State Library, occupy a room in the upper story of the City Hall until a suitable place is provided by act of Legislature. The City Library is on the first floor of the same building. It comprises about 19,000 volumes, prin- cipally miscellaneous works. Admission to the privileges of the Library, for non- residents, is by introduction. Armory Hall, on Camp Street, occupies the site, and part of the walls of the old 395 New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orleans. Camp Street theatre, erected in 1822. It is a fine apartment 120 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 22 feet high. It was long used as the armory of the Washington Battalion. It is now used as an auction mart. The Cemeteries. — Some of these homes of the dead in New Orleans are deserv- ing of particular notice, both from their unique arrangement and for the peculiar modes of interment. Each is enclosed with a brick wall of arched cavities (ovens, as they are called here), made just large enough to admit a single coffin, and raised, tier upon tier, to a height of about twelve feet, with a thickness of ten. Tlie whole enclosure is divided into plots, v/ith gravel paths intersecting each other at right angles, and is densely covered with tombs, built wholly above ground, and from one to three stories high. This method of sepulture is adopted from necessity, and burial under ground is never attempted, excepting in the Potter's Field, where the stranger without friends, and the poor without money, find an un- certain rest — the water with which the soil is always saturated, often lifting the coffin and its contents out of its narrow and shallow cell, to rot with no other covering than the arch of heaven. There are twelve public burial-grounds in the city, known respectively as Girod Street, Charity Hospital, Odd Fellows', Cypress Grove, Greenwood, St. Patrick's, St. Jo- seph, St. Vincent, Lafayette, St. Louis, Nos. 1 and 2 New St. Louis, and Hebrew Rest. Of these the Cypress Grove and Greenwood Cemetery, on the Metarie Ridge, at the north end of Canal Street, are the best worthy a visit. The ceme- tery of St. Louis No. 1 , at the intersection of Basin and St. Louis Streets, contains some fine monuments. Among those most conspicuous for their size and beauty, ai'e the vaults of the " Societe Francaise de bienfaisance," " Orleans Battalion of Artillery," the " Portuguese Society," and " Italian Benevolent Society."- The last is one of the most beautiful structures of its kind in the country. It is of white marble, and was built in 1 83*7, by Pietro Gualdi. St. Louis Cemetery No. 2 occupies four city squares on Esplanade Street, near Bayou St. John. Other cemeteries, principally Catholic, are situated in Lafayette and Algiers. Permits to visit the cemeteries 396 are granted at 10 Bank Place. The Monument Cemetery on the Battle- Field is wholly devoted to the interment of soldiers. It was opened May 2, 18G4, and has already 9,000 interments. There are two other cemeteries for deceased soldiers on the Carrolton Shell Road. 3fonumcnts.~New Orleans has two mon- uments worthy of notice. The Clay Monu- ment on Canal Street, between St. Charles and Royal Streets, is built of granite ; the figure bears a striking resemblance to the great statesman. The monument in course of erection to the Hero of New Orleans, on the Battle-Field, below the city, is seventy feet high. It was com- menced in 1856. When complete, it will be 140 feet in height. The equestrian statue of Jackson in the Place D'Armes, opposite the Cathedral, is too well known to need description here. It is the same met with so often in Washington and other cities. The MarJieis. — The stranger in New Orleans will be much interested by a visit to the mai-kets. They are charac- teristic and numerous. The principal are the vegetable and meat (French) mar- kets on the Levee near Jackson Square and the French Cathedral. To be seen to the greatest advantage, they should be visited on Sunday morning, between the hours of 8 and 9 o'clock. At break of day the gathering commences — all colors, nations, and tongues, commingled in one heterogeneous mass. The music far from being unpleasant, however, is musical to the stranger's ear. A visit thither is thus described by a well-known writer: One morning we rose early to visit the market of the First Municipality, and found the air on the bank of the Mississippi filled with mist as dense as a London fog, but of a pure white instead of yellow color. Through this atmosphere the imnunerable masts of the ships alongside the wharf were dimly seen. Among other fruits in the market we observed abimdance of bananas, and good pine-apples, for ' twenty-five cents each, from the West Indies. There were stalls where hot coffee was selling, in white china cups, reminding us of Paris. Among other articles exposed for sale were brooms made of palmetto-leaves, and w^agon- loads of the dried Spanish moss, or Til- New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [New Orleans. landsia. The quantity of this plant hang- ing from the trees in the swamps sur- rounding New Orleans, and everywhere on the Delta of the Mississippi, might sufiSce to stuff all the mattresses in the world. The Indians formerly used it for another purpose — to give porosity or lightness to their building materials. When passing through the stalls, we were surrounded by a population of ne- groes, mulattoes, and quadroons, some talking French, others a patois of Spanish and French, others a mixture of French and English, or English translated from French, and with the French accent. They seemed very merry, especially those who were jet-black. Some of the Creoles also, both of French and Spanish extrac- tion, like many natives of the south of Europe, were very dark. Amid this motley group, sprung from so many races, we encountered a young man and woman, arm-in-arm, of fair complexion, evidently Anglo-Saxon, and who looked as if they had recently come from the North. The Indians, Spaniards, and French standing round them, seemed as if placed there to remind us of the successive races whose power in Louisiana had passed away, while this fair couple were the represent- atives of a people whose dominion car- ries the imagination far into the future. However much the moralist may satiiize the spirit of conquest, or the foreigner laugh at some of the vainglorious boast- ing about " destiny," none can doubt that from this stock is to spring the people who will supersede every other in the northern if not also in the southern continent of America. The buildings formiug the market-place first describ- ed were built in 1830, at a cost of $55,000. The other markets are those in Poydras and Magazine Streets, St. Mary^s on Thompson Street, Orleam near the city prison, and that at the head of Elysian Fields. A visit to the first, how- lever, will save the stranger the trouble ) of making further explorations. Among the relics of the Spanish rule in New Orleans the most interesting are the LVna Blanca, at the corner of Bienville and Old Levee Streets. It was once the ; courtly residence of Bienville, the first iGovernor of Louisiana (1*710). It remains ias originally built, and in a good state of repair. The first or street floor is now occupied as a grocery store ; the upper portion as a boarding-house. The old Spanish building at the corner of Royal and Dumaine Streets should also be visited by those who would see what New Orleans was "more than a hundred^ears ago." Jackson's Headquarters are in the upper part of the house No. 86 (old number, 104) Royal Street. General Jackson occupied these quarters during his stay in the city from December 2, 1814, to a few days before the battle. The Old Spanish Court House, where Jackson was arraigned for contempt of court and fined a thousand dollars, is still another object of interest connected with the history of this remark- able man. It is at 269 Royal Sh;reet. Walking through the French quarter of the city, near the corner of Orleans and Dauphin Streets, not far north of the Cathedral, the stranger will observe a fine date palm, 30 feet high, growing in the open air. This tree is near one hundred years old, for Pere Antoine, a Roman Catholic priest, who died (1829) at the age of eighty, recorded that he planted it himself when he was young. In his will he provided that they who succeeded to this lot of ground should forfeit it if they cut down the palm. The Levee, already briefly referred to in our sketch, affords to the visitor one of the most peculiar and characteristic sights of the Crescent City. For extent and activity the scene has no equal on the continent. The best point from which to obtain a view of the city and its environs is the roof of the St. Charles Hotel, or the tower of St. Patrick's Church. If the traveller, says Sir Charles Lyell, has expected, on first obtaining an extensive view of the city, to see an unsightly swamp, with scarcely any objects to relieve the mo- notony of the flat plain, save the wind- ing river and a few lakes, he will be agree- ably disappointed. He will admire many a villa and garden in the suburbs ; and in the uncultivated space beyond, the effect of uneven and undulating ground is pro- duced by the magnificent growth of cypress and oth-er swamp timber, which have converted what would otherwise have formed the lowest points in the landscape into the appearance of wooded eminences. The French began their settle- 397 New Orleans.] LODISIANA. [New Orleans. ments on Lake Pontchartrain, because tliey found there an easy communication with the Gulf of Mexico. But they fixed the site of their town on that part of the great river which was nearest to the lagoon, so as to command by this means the navigation of the interior country. The private dwellings in the suburbs are many of them very charming places, buried in the grateful shadow of tropical leaves — the magnolia, lemon, myrtle, and orange tree. Visitors wishing to bring away with them a few pictures of the prominent buildings and objects of interest in New Orleans should not fail to visit the gallery of Mr. Eugene A. Piffet, at 93 Camp Street. His collection" affords every latitude of choice, afld his facilities for executing orders are not excelled by any other es- tablishment in the city. The Restaurants of New Orleans have long been famous for the excellence of their cuisine. Victor'' s, 185 Canal Street ; the Maiso7i Doree, 144 Canal, and the Restaurant Moreau, have no superiors in the South. Galjnn^s, 32 Royal Street (steaks and chops) ; Pino's, 23 St. Charles, and Rivas (oysters), 156 Dryades Street, are among the best of their class in the city. The City Railroad system of New Orleans embraces eight main lines — trav- ersing the following streets; Magazine, from Canal to 8th ; Prytania, from Canal to Limits; Canal, from Monument to Ridge Cemeteries ; Esplanade, from Monu- ment to Bayou I3ridge; Dauphin, from Monument to U. S. Barracks ; Levee, from Custom House to TJ. S. Barracks ; Baronne Street, throughout. The aggregate length of track laid in the city is 40 miles. Fares range from 5 cents to *? cents. Good car- riages and hacks can be found at the stands in front of the St. Charles and principal hotels. Fare, $2.00 an hour; $5.00 for the forenoon or afternoon. Livery charges are somewhat higher. The best plan for strangers, especially if accompanied by ladies, is to hire a suitable conveyance by the hour, and discharge at the end of each trip. The city is supplied with water from the river, raised by steam to an elevated re- servoir, and thence distributed through the streets. Some six millions of gallons are used daily. Gas was introduced in 1834 — water the same year. 398 The holiday season, which includes Christmas and the New Year's, is the best time to visit New Orleans. No city on the broad continent presents such numerous and varied attractions at this festive sea- son, and stolid, indeed, must be the stranger who is not impressed with his experiences. The distinguished author from whom we have so largely quoted, thus writes of the Carnival and the cere- monies of Mardi Gras : " It was quite a novel and refreshing sight to see a whole population giving up then' minds for a short season to amusement. There was a grand procession parading the streets, almost every one dressed in the most grotesque attire, troops of them on horse- back, some in open carriages, with bands of music, and in a variety of costumes — some as Lidians, with feathers on their heads, and one, a jolly fat man, as Mardi Gras himself All wore masks, and here and there in the crowd, or stationed in a balcony above, we saw persons armed with bags of flour, which they showered down copiously on any one who seemed particularly proud of his attire. The strangeness of the scene was not a little heightened by the blending of negroes, quadroons, and mulattoes in the crowd ; and we were amused by obsei-ving the ludicrous surprise, mixed with contempt, of several unmasked, stiff, grave Anglo- Americans from the North, who were witnessing for the first time what seemed to them so much mummery and tom- foolery. One wagoner, coming out of a cross street in his working dress, drove his team of horses and vehicle, heavily laden with cotton-bales, right through the pro- cession, causing a long interruption. The crowd seemed determmed to allow nothmg to disturl) their good humor ; but although many of the wealthy Protestant citizens take part in the ceremony, this rude intru- sion struck me as a kind of foreshadowing of coming events, emblematic of the vio- lent shock which the invasion of the Anglo-Americans is about to give to the old regime of Louisiana. A gentleman told me that, being last year in Rome, he had not seen so many masks at the Carni- val there ; and, in spite of the increase of Protestants, he thought there had been quite as much ' flour and fun ' this year as usual. The proportion, however, of New Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [Vicinity. Btrict Eomanists is not so great as for- merly, and to-morrow, they say, when Lent begins, there will be an end of the trade ! in masks ; yet the butchers will sell nearly as much meat as ever. During the Car- j nival the greater part of the French popu- lation keep open houses, especially in the country." The Creoles. — Those who would form a just estimate of the social character and appearance of the Creole population of the city, should visit the opera in the height of the season. The French Creole ladies, many of them descended from Norman ancestors, and of pure, unmixed blood, are very handsome. They are usually attired in Parisian fashion, not over-dressed, nor so thinly clad as are the generality of American women — their luxuriant hair, tastefully arranged, fasten- ed with ornamental pins, and adorned with a colored ribbon or a single flower. The word " Creole " is used in Louisiana to express a native-born American, whether black or white, descended from old-world parents, for they would not call the abo- riginal Indians Creoles. It never means persons of mixed breed ; and the French or Spanish Creoles in New Orleans would shiink as much as a New Englander from intermarriage with one tainted, in the slightest degree, with African blood. The frequent alliances of the Creoles, or Louis- ianians, of French extraction, with lawyers and merchants from the Northern States, help to cement the ties which are every day binding more firmly together the distant parts of the Union. Both races may be improved by such connection, for the manners of the Creole ladies are, for the most part, more refined ; and many a Louisianian might justly have felt indig- nant if he could have overheard a con- ceited young bachelor from the North telling me " how much they were prefer- red by the fair sex to the hard-drinking, gambling, horse-racing, cock-fighting, and tobacco-chewing Southerners." If the Creoles have less depth of character, and are less striving and ambitious than the New Englanders, it must be no slight source of happiness to the former to be so content with present advantages. They seem to feel, far more than the Anglo- Saxons, that if riches be worth the win- ning, they are also worth enjoying. The quadroons, or the offspring of the whites and muluttoes, sit in an upper tier of boxes appropriated to them. When they are rich, they hold a peculiar and very equivocal position in society. As children they have often been sent to Paris for their education, and, being as capable of improvement as any whites, return with refined manners, and not unfrcquently with more cultivated minds than the ma- jority of those from whose society they are shut out. " By the tyranny of caste they are driven, therefore, to form among themselves a select and exclusive set. Among other stories illustrating their social relation to the whites, we are told that a youffg man of the dominant race fell in love with a beautiful quadroon girl, who was so light-colored as to be scarcely distinguishable from one of pure breed. He found that, in order to render the mar- riage legal, he was required to swear that he himself had negro blood in his veins ; and, that he might conscientiously take the oath, he let some of the blood of his betrothed into his veins with a lancet. The romance of this doubtful tale was greatly diminished, although I fear that my inclination to believe in its truth was equ;illy enhanced, when the additional circumstance was related, that the young lady was rich." The foregoing sketch of society and social life in New Orleans, I need hardly remind my reader, was penned long before the late rebellion had so changed the aspect of every thing through- out the South. The visitor will, however, be surprised as well as delighted at the extent to which the manners and customs of " the old regime,'''' are still perpetuated among the descendants of the early settlers in the Crescent City. Railways. — The Nevi Orleans, JacJcson, and Great Northern Railway. Stations, Mag-nolia (98 m.), Jackson (183 m.), Cair- ton (206 m.), where it connects with the Mississippi Central to Jackson, and all points north, east, and west. Mexican Gulf Railway from New Or- leans 28 miles to Proctorsville, connect- ing with Mobile steamers. Nev) Orleans, Opelousas, and Great Western Railway from Algiers, opposite New Orleans, via St. Charles (18), La- fourche (52), Terrabonne (55), Bayou 399^ Kew Orleans.] LOUISIANA. [Vicinity. Bceuf (73), to Brashear (80 miles), where trains connect with Southern Steamship Company's packets for Galveston and In- dianola, Texas. Steamboats. — Steamer to New York twice a week. To St. Louis, and all points on the Upper Mississippi and Ohio Kivcrs, every evening. For Red, Oua- chita, and Yazoo Rivers, regular semi- weekly packets. VICINITY. The Battle-Field^ formerly known as the Plains of Chalmette, is an object of much interest to all Amei'ican visitors, and is generally first visited. •It lies four miles and a half south of Canal Street, and may be reached either by carriage along the levee, or by the street cars. It is washed by the waters of the Mississip- pi, and surrounded by cypress-swamps and cane-brakes. The action took place January 8, 1815, between the British troops, under General Pakenham, and the Americans under Jackson, the former suffering a signal defeat. Pakenliam was approaching the city by the way of Lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain, at the time of this terrible repulse. His loss in killed and wounded was nearly 3,000, while the Americans had but 7 men killed and 6 wounded. A marble monument, 70 feet high, and yet unfinished, occupies a suit- able site overlooking the ground, and serves to commemorate the victory. The MorMmenial Cemetery or Sol- diers' Burying-Ground, occupies the south- west corner of the field. In return- ing to the city a good opportunity is afforded for visiting the United States Barracks, which front the river about three and a half miles below the city. The purchase of the property, which embraces two acres front and forty acres in depth, was made through Adju- tant G. M. Dreme, in 1830. The works were begun in February, 1834, and com- pleted December, 1835, at a cost of $182,- 000. The quarters of the commandant occupy the centre of the front, those of the staff and company being on either flank. The hospital storehouse, corps de garde, and post magazine, are in the rear of the parade-ground. One of the build- ings on the right of the parade-ground 400 was fired by the shells from Admiral Far- ragut's fleet on their way up to the city (April 25, 18G2). The garrison is now composed of the 1st Regular Infantry. The Ursuline Convent is passed a sliort distance north of the Barracks. It has an imposing front of near 200 feet, and commands a fine view of the river. It was founded in 1826. A nunnery and chapel are attached to the convent. The former has accommodation for forty sisters of the Ursuline Order. Admission to the convent is granted only during vacation. Lake Pontchartrain, five miles north of the city, is famous for its fish and game. It communicates with Lake Maurepas on the west, and through the Rigolets, with Lake Borgne and the Gulf of Mexico on the east. By this latter route the daily steamers leave New Orleans for Mobile. The lake is 40 miles in length and 24 miles in with. It is from 16 to 20 feet deep, and abounds in fish. It is reached by the Lake Railway every hour through the day. The swamps which lay between the city and the lake, and are traversed by the railway, are covered with a thick growth of cvpress and other trees peculiar to this locality. At the railway terminus is a hotel (the Washington) for the accommodation of visitors. Those par- ticular about their sleeping accommoda- tion and their associations, would do well to return to the city by the last train, which usually leaves at 7 o'clock. The Shell Road affords an agreeable drive to Lake Pontchartrain for those who prefer that kind of locomotion. This road lies along the margin of the canal, and was once the finest and smoothest road in the country. During the military occupation of the city, a railroad track was laid through it, which has greatly marred its beauty and excellence. A movement is on foot to restore it. Half way between the city and the lake is the celebrated Metarie race track. Buffet and restaurant. adjoining. Lafayeite, until 1852 under a distinct government, now forms the 4th district of New Orleans. Jefferson City is a pleasant suburb of New Orleans, lying immediately west of the city. It is reached in thirty min- utes by car from Canal Street. Carrolton, in Jefferson Parish, six miles Srale of Half aJVIile. _J 1^ i^-- |ffi[ittfif"ufMr.. nnciju.'bT [M3C dnj EJEC^n CffiJjIC SBC [Tj iRS"pr;r;n,>7k> Little Rock, is upon the Mississippi River, at the mouth of the Arkansas. It is a busy and thriving place. The United States Marine Hospital here is a conspic- uous building. Boats running on the Mississippi and Arkansas Rivers, call here. Passengers will find the best ac- commodation the place affords on the* wharf boat. Camy adventurers from North Carolina as arly as 1151. The early history of the ountry is, like that of the neighboring- State of Kentucky, full of the records of jloody struggles with the Indian occu- pants of the soil. The little band of ioneers at Fort Loudon were not, of ourse, suffered to rest peacefully in their ew home : on the contrary, they were 11 either butchered or driven away. In few years, the axe of the white man gain rang through the wild forests, and labins dotted the land, gradually cluster- iig into villages and towns. Tennessee 'as admitted, in 1V96, as the sixteenth lember of the American Union. She layed a distinguished joart in the war of 812. The landscape of Tennessee is aried and picturesque, though none of \e great natural wonders of the Repub- c lie within her borders. Her mountain, alley, and river scenery is exceedingly eautiful, and will become famous as it ecomes better known. The Cumberland ills, and other ranges of the Appalachian lain, pass through her western area, parating her from. North Carolina, and Hitting in the valleys of the Holston and her rivers. The height of the moun- in ridges and summits here is va- ously estimated at from 1,500 to 2,000 et. They are most of them covered ith a rich forest growth to the top, here the axe and the plough have not langed their native character. The ccn- al portion of the State, stretching from mountains to the Tennessee liiver, '^s a broken surface, while beyond, ward the Mississippi, which makes the stern boundary, the country is com- 18 paratively level. Many valuable mineral products are found here — coal and iron in great abundance, and rich deposits of copper. Gold, too, has been detected, and silver, lead, zinc, manganese, mag' netic-iron ore, gypsum of superior quality, and a great variety of beautiful marbles, slate, nitre, burrstones, and limestone. Salt and mineral springs, the latter of a very valuable character, abound. The climate here, excepting in the river low- lands, is most agreeable and healthful; exempt alike from the winter severities of the North, and from the summer heats of the South. Immense quantities of live- stock are raised in Tennessee ; more, in- deed, than in any other part of the Union. It is, too, a vast tobacco, cotton, and corn-growing region. The culture of hemp, buckwheat, i^ye, oats, barley, ma- ple sugar, and many other agricultural products occupy the industry and contrib- ute to the wealth of the people. Rivers. — The Tennessee Hlver enters the State at its southeast extremity, from North Carolina, and forms the chief affluent of the Ohio. Its sources are among the Alleghanies, in Virginia, flow- ing under the names of the Clinch and- the Holston Rivers, until they unite at Kingston, in Tennessee. The first course of the main stream is southwest to Chat- tanooga, near the point where the States of Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama meet. From Chattanooga it turns tow- ard the northwest, until the obstruc- tion of the Cumberland Mountains bends its current southward again, and sends it oil' on a clc'(o2ir of 300 miles into Upper Alabama and the northeast corner of Mis.=;issippi. It gets back to Tennessee at this point, and, for the second time, traverses the entire breadth of the State, 409 Railways.] TENNESSEE. [Nashtille. crosses Kentucky, and reaches the end of its journey at Paducah, 48 miles from the mouth of the Ohio. The lengtli of the Tennessee proper is about 800 miles ; including its long-est. branch, the Holston, its waters extend 1,100 miles. The only important obstruction in the navigation of the Tennessee is the 20 miles stretch of rapids in Alabama known as the Mus- cle Shoals. (See Alabama.) Steamboats ascend the river nearly 300 miles, to the foot of these rapids, and above, to Knox- ville, on the Holston, nearly 500 miles. A railway supplies the missing link in the passage of the river, caused by the inter- vention of the rapids. Knoxville and Chattanooga are the principal places on the Tenneessee. In Alabama, Tuscumbia and Florence, and in Kentucky, Padu- cah, are on its banks. The upper waters of the Tennessee, and all that portion of the river in the eastern and middle parts of the State, are extremely beautiful, varied as the landscape is by wild moun- tain scenes and fertile pastoral lands. In the neighborhood of Chattanooga, where the Lookout Mountain lifts its bold crest, the scenery is especially attractive. It would be difficult to find a more charming picture than that from the summit of the Lookout Mountain, over the smiling valley of the Tennes- see, and the capricious windings of the river. The chief tributaries of the Ten- nessee besides the two branches from which it is formed — the Holston and the Clinch — are the Hiav/assee, from Georgia, the Hatchee, and the Duck River. All the waters of the State are ultimately absorbed by the Mississippi, its western boundary. The Cumber- Imid makes an extensive circuit of 250 miles through Middle Tennessee. It is navigable for large boats to Nashville in good stages of water. Railways. — The Naaliville and Chatta- nooga Railway, 151 miles from Nashville, in the north central part of the State, to Chattanooga, near the Georgia and Ala- bama lines, connecting with the Georgia and South Carolhia Railway system. The LoinsviUe and Nashville Railicay, from Nashville north 185 miles to Louisville, Ky., via Bowling Green and Cave City, the point of departure for the Mammoth 4J0 Cave. The Tennessee and Alabama Rail- way, in operation southward to Colum- bia ; to be extended and connected with routes from Mobile, Alabama, and from New Orleans. Ji^asf Tenyiessee and Georgia Railway, from Knoxville so\ith- west 112 miles to Chattanooga, con- necting with the railways of that State. Now extended northeast, by the East Ten- nessee T»nd Virginia, to the railways of , Virginia ; and west, from Knoxville to t Nashville. The Memphis and Charleston f Railway, 310 miles from Memphis to « Chattanooga, partly on the southern bor- r ders of extreme Western Tennessee, cr through the upper part of Mississippi , and Alabama, into East Tennessee. The < Mississipj)i and Tennessee Railway, from ' Memphis south 99 miles to Grenada, i Miss., where it connects with the Missis- sippi Central Railway to Jackson and i New Orleans. The Nashville and North luestern Raihvay, from Nashville '78 miles to Johnsonville, where it connects with steamboats on the river. The Nashvilk ' and Dcaiur Railway, from Nashville 122 miles south to Decatur, connecting with I trains on the Memphis and Charleston » Railway. The Nashville and Clarlcsville Railway, from Nashville 4*7 miles to ' State Line, where it makes connection with roads to Clarksville and Memphis. NASHVILLE. 684 miles from Washington, 185 from i Louisville. Hotels. — Stacey House and St. Cloudy < both centrally located on ^Church Street. ' The former opened in January, 1866, is i newly furnished. Charges at both these • houses, $3.50 per day. ' ; Nashville, the capital of Tennessee, 'I and the most important city in the v Commonwealth, is most agreeably sit- i' uated on the south side of Cumberland v River, at the head of steamboat naviga- ; tion. The principal portion of the city i^ is constructed upon a ridge, the highest •, point of which is about 108 feet above \ low-water mark. The first settlement ij was made in 1*779-80 by a party of North j Carolina emigrants, and the town estal^ ; lisbed by act of the Assembly of that i Fashville.] TENNESSEE. [YlCINITT, tate, May, 1784, Owing to its healthy jcation, it is the resort of i^umbers from he lower country during the heat of sum- lier. Both the public and private build- ligs of Nashville are creditable to the •xste and liberality of its citizens. The \!aj>itol may justly be considered one of ae finest edifices on the continent. It is a elegant and imposing structure, and overs an eminence which rises to the eight of 19*7 feet above the river. The prner-stone was laid July 4, 1845. It built of fine fossilated limestone, much ke marble, which was quarried on the ot. Many of the blocls:s weigh ten tons ,ch. Its dimensions are 270 by 140 et. Its architecture is Grecian, consist- g of a Doric basement, and supporting its four fronts Ionic porticoes, modelled 'ter those of the Erectheum at Athens, the centre of the building is a tower feet high. The basement or crypt of e building is used as a depository of ms. The principal story is approached a double fliglit of stairs, which lead to e chambers of the Senate and House of [cpresentatives, the Library, etc. The nale Chamber is a handsome apart- ent, 35 by 70 feet, with a gallery, the lumns supporting which, and the desks, e of the beautiful East Tennessee mar- The Hall of Representatives con- ins sixteen fluted columns of the Ro- an Ionic order, two feet eight inches in jameter, and twenty-one feet ten inches height, from the level of the galleries er the committee-rooms. The shafts of ese columns are all in one piece. The mensions of this room are 100 feet by — ^height of ceiling from floor, 40 feet, 'le beauty and convenience in the design 1 the principal story, so much superior 1 the plan of the Capitol at Washington, that the committee-rooms are on tbe ;me plan with, and surrounding the Hall Representatives. In the display of jjtive marbles in this hall, consists the g;atest attraction of this magnificent EJucture. Planking the public hall I vate stairways are constructed, leading f m the crypt to the various stories, and tithe roof A geometrical stairway leads ilm the level of tlic roof to the top of ts tower, where you land upon an arched ptform, which is intended for an Obscr- vlury. The tower is built from the foundation of solid stone, and contains four niches in the basement and eight in the principal story, with spacious halls leading to the right and left. The Library numbers upwards of J 2, 000 volumes. All the materials used in the construction of the Capitol were furnished within the State. Its cost was nearly one million dollars. Judged by the present standard of prices, it may be considered one of the cheapest as well as finest public buildings in the United States. The seat of Government has been al- ternately located at Columbia, Mur- freesboro', and Nashville. The Imnatic Asylum, built in 1833, and the Peniten- tiary, are large, imposing buildings. The latter has a front of 300 feet, and con- tains 200 cells. The City Hall occupies a prominent location on Market Square. The University of Nashville, founded in 1806, is worthy a visit. Its Medical De- partment, opened in 1851, has nearly one hundred students. The mineral cabinet of the late Dr. Troost, is the richest pri- vate collection in the United States. Ap- pHcation to inspect it should be made to John B. Liudsey, Chancellor of the Uni- versity. The fine wire suspension bridge which formerly spanned the Cumberland River opposite the city, and which cost $100,000, was destroyed by the Confeder- ate authorities, February, 1862. NashviUe has two theatres ; one on Cherry, near Cedar, and the other known as the " Neio " Theatre, corner of Union and Summer Sts. The former, under the management of Messrs. Dufiield & Flynn, is a well-con- ducted establishment. The city has in- creased in population rapidly since the war, and now claims 45,000 inhabitants. No less than eight daily newspapers are published here. The social attractions of Nashville are not excelled by those of any city in the South. Nashville has im- mediate connection by rail with all the principal cities north and south, east and west. Boats to St. Louis and Cincinnati semi-weekly. Edgefield is a pleasant village opposite Nashville. Laid out in 1849." The Hermitage.^— T\\% traveller while in this vicinage will not fail to make a pilgrimage to the sopt sacred as the hearthstone of General and President Andrew Jackson. 411 Memphis.] TENNESSEE. [Chattanooga. ,, Mempliis, 420 miles from St. Louis, 209 from Nashville. Hotels, Gai/oso, Worsham, and Commercial. Memphis is finely situated upon the Third Chickasaw Bluff of the Mississippi, at tlie mouth of the Wolf River. It is in the southwest corner of the State, upon the site of old Fort Pickering. The city presents a striking appearance as seen from the water, with its es- planade several hundred feet in width sweeping along the bluff and covered with large warehouses. It is the chief town on the Mississippi between New Orleans and St. Louis. Railways unite it at all points with tlie neighboring country and with the most distant towns, north, east, south, and west. The hotel accom- modations are ample, though by no means excellent. The Theatre^ corner of Jeffer- son and Third Streets, is one of the best in the South. It has seats for upwards of 800. A city railroad company is now organized, and it is expected that cars will soon be in operation on Main Street and the leading thoroughfares. It has steamboat connections daily with New Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Louisville, and all points on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. The Memphis Library Aswcia- iion has its rooms in the Post-Office build- ing, corner Third and Jefferson Streets. The collection of books numbers nearly 2,000. The city is divided into eight wards. It contains twenty churches and tv.'cnty-four public schools, built mostly of brick. The State Female College is located at Greenwood, two miles south- east of the city. The Memphis Female College and St. Agnes Female Academy are flourishing institutions. Tlie popula- tion has more than quadrupled since 1850 in spite of the war, and now numbers nearly 30,000. It fell into the possession of the United States forces, June, 1862, after a brief period of rebellion. Maai-freesl>©a''o', 32 niiles below Nashville, is passed on the railway route to Chattanooga and Atlanta. The town is built in a beautiful and pic- turesque valley. It is the seat of the Uuion University (Baptist), established in 1841. Murfreesboro' was the capital of Tennessee from 181*7 to 1827, when the State House was burnt. It is a pleasant point at which to make a short 412 stay. IStone River, where the battle was fought, 31st December, 1862, is one mile from the town. It is yet called Murfrees- boro' by the people in the vicinity. At Fisterville, 13 miles south of Murfrees- boro', are the remains of a fort. Bridge- port is a strongly fortified point at the crossing of Tennessee River. CIiSBttauoLOOg'a. is upon the Ten- nessee River, in the southern part of the State, where its boundary is touched by Alabama and Georgia. It is 250 miles from Knoxville by water, and 160 miles southeast of Nashville. It is a great railway centre, being the ter- minus of the Nashville and Chattanooga and Western and Atlantic Railways, which tap the Georgia I'outes, reaching to Knox- ville, and thence through Viriginia; and upon the great line from Charleston, S. C, to the Mississippi at Memphis. The Ten- nessee River is navigable two-thirds of the year, and at all times for small boats, from the Muscle Shoals to Chattanooga. Population about 7,000. (See Lookout Mountain, in the chapter upon Georgia, for the beautiful landscape surroundings of Chattanooga). The Crutchfield Hotise is a well-kept hotel near the railroad depot, Cliickainauga Battle-Field is distant from the city 7 miles southeast. The road thither is good for horses only. The Lookout Mountain \s within easy riding distance of Chattanooga. On the sum- mit of this beautiful spur the northwest corner of Georgia and the northeast ex- tremity of Alabama meet on the southern boundary of Tennessee. Almost in thei shadow of the Lookout heights lies thei busy tov.'n of Chattanooga. The country around the " Lookout " is extremely picturesque; the views all about tlje mountain itself are admirable, and noth- ing can exceed in beauty the charming valley of the Tennessee and its waters, as seen from its lofty summit. It is, too, in the immediate vicinage of other remarka- . ble localities, the Dogwood Valley, hard;; by, and the Nickajack Cave in Alabama.n The scenes on Lookout, best worth visit- mg, are Lake Seclusion, Lidah Falls, tliei Battle- Field, onA Rock City. Guides arc; in attendance throughout the visiting i season. W. R. M. Lunn, photographic artist, supplies excellent pictures of these several views. His gallery is on the ex- lOLUMBIA.] TENNESSEE. [Knoxville. teme point of the mountain. The fol- )wing brief outUne of the operations at |iOokout, gleaned from the official report if General Grant, will interest the reader : he Battle of Lookout Mountain, was )ught on the 23d November, 1863, be- ,veen the foi'ces under Hooker, consist- '"• of Geary's division (12th coi'ps) and lirigade of Stanley's division (4th prps) of Thomas's army, and Osterhaus's vision (15th corps) of Sherman's army. ooker scaled the western slope of the ountain, drove the enemy from his rifle- ts on the northern extremity and slope the mountain. The fight lasted from ten four p. M., when the rebels gradually ithdrew, leaving their artillery, etc. This ttle has been greatly magnified. It |as really nothing more than an extended irmish. On the night of the 24:th the nion forces maintained an unbroken line ith open communications from the north td of Lookout Mountain through Chat- nooga valley, to the north end of Mis- on Eidge. The NicTcajacJc Cave. — The mouth of is wonderful cavern, which has only to known in order to be famous, is in abama, although otherwise it traverses orgia territory. (See chapter on Ala- ma.) There are some other mountain and terfall pictures in Georgia besides ose in the upper tier of counties, a few )lated scenes lower down standing as tposts to the hill-region, as Mount Cur- Lee, the Hock Mountain, and the Falls Towalaga. Coln]u1>£a. is upon the Duck River, miles south of Nashville, upon the ishville and Decatur Railway. Jackson illege is located here. The educational titutions of the town are important, le most prominent are the Female .'henceum, Female Institute, and Con- ference College. The Capitol of the State was once located here. afiiclcsoBa is upon the Forked Deer River, 180 miles below Nashville by stage. The Mobile and Ohio Railway passes here. SjeljasaoBa, the seat of the Cumber- land University, is 30 miles east of Nash- ville by stage. Mnoxville is upon the Holston Riv- er, four miles from its junction with the French Broad, 185 miles east of Nash- ville, and 204 miles southeast of Lexing- ton, Kentucky. It is connected by the East Tennessee and Georgia Railway with all the great routes of Georgia to the Atlantic, and with the highway to New Orleans, via Montgomery and Mobile, in Alabama ; also by the East Tennessee and Virginia Railway, with Richmond, Vir- ginia, and all the great thoroughfares of the country. The great route from Boston to New Orleans now passes through Knox- ville. The city is defightfully situated, and affords a pleasant place of resort. It was laid out in 1794, in which year it be- came the capital of the State, and so con- tinued until 1817. The University of East Tennessee, founded 1807, is a fine building. The State Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb is also a prominent edifice. Population 10,000. The place is famous for its manufacture of window-glass. Caves and Mounds in Tennessee. — ■ While in Eastern Tennessee the traveller should not fail to see some of the numer- ous caves in the Cumberland Mountains. Upon the Enchanted Rock, here, are some singular impressions of the feet of men and animals. In CoflFee County, not far from Manchester, there is an ancient stone fort, enclosed by a wall, upon which trees are growing, whose age is supposed to ex- ceed 500 years. This mysterious fortifi- cation is situated between two rivers, and occupies an area of 47 acres. 413 Kentucky.] KENTUCKY. [Kentcck KENTU CKY. " The highest phase of Western char- acter," says Mr. Tuckerman, "is doubt- less to be found in Kentucky, and in one view best illustrates the American in dis- tinction from European civilization. In the North this is essentially modified by the cosmopolite influence of the seaboard, and in the South by a climate which assimilates her people with those of the same latitudes elsewhere ; but in the West, and especially in Kentucky, we find the foundations of social existence laid hy the hunter — whose love of the woods, equality of condition, habits of sport and agricul- ture, and distance from conventionahties, combine to nourish independence, strength of mind, candor, and a fresh and genial spirit. The ease and freedom of social intercourse, the abeyance of the passion for gain, and the scope given to the play of character, accordingly developed a race of noble aptitudes ; and we can scarcely imagine a more appropriate figure in the foreground of the picture than Daniel Boone, who embodies the honesty, intel- ligence, and chivalric spirit of the State." The first visit of Boone to the wilderness of Kentucky was about the year 1*769, at which period he and his hardy companions made the earliest settlement at Boones- borough. In 1'7'74' Ilarrodsburg was begun, and Lexington a year or two after- wards. The pioneers in their western forests met with all the adventure their hearts could desire — more, indeed ; for so great was their exposure and suffering, for many long years, from the cruel enmity of the savage populations, that the country came to be known as "the dark and bloody ground." A memorable battle was fought near the Blue Lick Springs, August 19, 1*782, between the Ken- tuckians and the Indians — an unequal and disastrous conflict, in which the 414 colonists were routed, with a loss of sixt' men, among them a son of the gallail Boone. In 1778 Du Quesne, with h Canadian and Indian army, vras bravel^ repulsed at Boonesborough. Kentuclo came into the Union in 1792, being tl second State admitted after the Revolv tion. During the rebellion of 1861-'6 Kentucky, from her geographical siti- ation on the border, occupied a difficu < and delicate position. For a long tin: she refused to side either with the Nort or the South. On the 4th May, 1861, a. election for delegates to the Border Sta(' Convention was held, at which the vol was overwhelmingly in favor of the Unioi The Convention met at Frankfort on tli 27th of May. Volunteers from Kcntuck entered both the Union and Confederati service. On the 4th of July the Louisvill'. and Nashville Railway, the main thorougl fare of the State, was seized by the Coi federate soldiers, and shortly afterward i closed. The towns of Hickman and C( lumbus were occupied by Confederal troops under the command of Generi Polk. On the 18th September a skirmis^ between Zollicoffer's troops and theHoK' GTiards took place near Barboursvill( By 1st December the number of Feder; troops in the State amounted to 70,00( The forces of the enemy, imder Gencn Buckner, were estimated at 30,000. Earl in 1882 active military operations wer commenced, and continued throughoi the year, when the campaign in Kentuck was virtually abandoned by the rebels The physical aspect of Kentucky is on of changing and wonderful beauty, as th traveller will see in visiting some of be marvellous natural scenes. The Cumbc: land Mountains traverse the eastern com ties, and a line of hills follows the cour? of the Ohio River, with meadow stretchc M RiTKRS.] KENTUCKY. [Louisville between, sometimes ten and* even twenty miles in width. The State is well supplied with coal, iron, and other minerals. Salt and mineral springs of great repute abound. The chief agricultural staples of this region are hemp, flax, tobacco, and Indian corn. Of the first two of these products a greater quantity is raised here than in any other State. In the produc- tion of tobacco Kentucky is second only to Virginia, and in the product of Indian 3om she stands third in the list. KiVERS. — The Ohio Hiver {orms the en- tire northern boundary of Kentucky, and she Mississippi washes all her western shore ; thus giving her, with the aid of the nany streams which come from the in- ;er!or of the State into these great high- ways, the greatest possible facilities for ravel, and for the transportation of her staples to all markets. The Kentucky River, like most of the streams of the State, is remarkable for picturesque beauty. Its passage, in a ourse of 200 miles northwest to the )hio, is often through bold Umestone edges, ranged on either side of the larrow, dark channel in grand perpen- licular cliffs. " Deepen Trenton Falls," lays Mr. Willis, " for one or two hundred eet, smoothe its cascades into a river, ,nd extend it for thirty miles between )erpendicular precipices, from three "to ive hundred feet high, and only a biscuit- oss across at the top — and you have a iver of whose remarkable beauty the i^orld is strangely ignorant." The Cumherland River is one of the irgest of the tributaries of the Ohio. It as its source in the Cumberland Moun- ains, in the southeast corner of the State, nd flows 600 miles, making a bend into 'ennessee, and then traversing western [entucky. It is navigable for steamers 00 miles to Nashville, and sometimes to !arthage, while small craft may ascend 00 miles yet higher. About 14 miles •om Williamsburg there is a fine perpen- icular fall of 60 feet. The Lichhuf River flows from the ;!umborland Mountains, 200 miles, into be Ohio, opposite Cincinnati. Steamboats ^ay ascend 50 miles to Falmouth. This fver varies in width from 50 to 100 yards. \& banks are often lofty and precipitous. covered with huge forest trees. The South Licking and the North Fork are among its* tributaries. The Green River is about 300 miles in length. It rises in the eastern section of the State, and flows westward for some 150 miles, through the limestone regions and by the Mammoth Cave, finally enter- ing the Ohio nine miles above Evansville, Indiana. It is navigable in high water, and by the aid of locks and dams, for steamboats, 200 miles to Greensburg. The Salt River, named in token of the Salt Springs which abound in its vicinity, enters the Ohio 22 miles below Louisville. This is the fabled retreat of defeated poli- ticians and other unhappy adventurers. The Tennessee River rises among the Cumberland Mountains of Eastern Ken- tucky, and flows "70 miles within the limits of this State. (See Tennessee.) Railways. — The Louisville and NasJi- ville Railway from Louisville, via Shep- herdsville (18 miles), Lebanon Junction (30), EUzabethtown (42), Munfordsville (YS), Cave City (85), Bowling Green (114), to Nashville (185). Immediate connec- tion at Louisville and Nashville with roads North and South. Lebanon Branch (L. and N. R. R.) from Lebanon Junction (30), Lebanon (6d), Danville (95), to Stanford, 105 miles. The Kentucky Central (Covington and Lexing-ton) Railway from Covington (op- posite Cincinnati), via Falmouth (39), Cynthiana (66), Paris (80), to Lexington (99 miles), where it connects with the Lexington and Southern Kentucky Rail- way to Nicholasville (112 miles). The Louisville and Frankfort and Lex- ington and Frankfort Railway, 94 miles from Louisville to Lexington, via Frank- fort. LOUISVILLE. 133 miles from Cincinnati by river, 94 from Lexington. To reach Louisville from Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and intermediate places, see Cincinnati and routes to that city. From Cincinnati, take the steamer down the Ohio River, 133 miles to Louis- ville; or the Ohio and Mississippi Rail- way 87 miles to Seymour, and thence by 415 LOUISVILLE.J KENTUCKY. [Vicinity. the Jeifersonville Rail-syay 59 miles to JcfFei'sonville, opposite Louisville. This is the shortest land route. Total distance to Louisville from Cincinnati, 146 miles. Louisville may also be reached less di- rectly but more pleasantly from Cincinnati by the Kentucky Central Eailway (Cov- ington and Lexington), 99 miles to Lex- ington, and thence by the Louisville and Lexington Railway via Frankfort, 94 miles. The distance from Cincinnati to Louisville, by this route, is 193 miles. Louisville may be reached from Pitts- burg, the western terminus of the Penn- sylvania Central Railway, from Philadel- phia or from Wheeling, the western ter- minus of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, \)j steamboat down the Ohio. From St. Louis there is railway communication by the Ohio and Mississippi to Mitchell (213 miles), and thence by the Louisville, New Albany and Chicago Railway, 61 miles. From Indianapolis the route is by the Jeifersonville Railway, 108 miles. Hotels. — The Louisville Hotel, on Main Street, is a commodious and well-kept house. The Natioyial and United States Hotels are centrally located. Louisville, with a population of about 80,000, is the chief city of Kentucky. It is located at the Falls of the Ohio, where Bear Grass Creek enters that river. The topography is most agreeable, affording fine %'iews from many parts of the terrace elevation of '70 feet. The Falls, which are quite picturesque in appearance, may be seen from the town. In high stages of the water they almost entirely disap- pear, and steamboats pass over them ; but when the water is low, the whole width of the river, which is scarcely less than a mile, has the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foam, making their way over the falls. The river is divided by a fine island, which adds to the beauty of the scene. To obviate the obstruction to the ntivigation caused by the falls, a c-anal two and a half miles in length has been cut round them, to a place called Ship- pingsport. It was a work of immense labor, being for the greater part of its course cut through the solid rock. The total cost of the work was little short of a million dollars. The extent of the city riverward is over two miles. The course of the leading streets is in this direction. 416 They are, for the most part, wide, well paved, and shaded with trees. The fol- lowing are among the jnost prominent buildings : the City Hall, the Court House, on Jeiferson Street ; the Louisville Uni- versity Medical College, corner Ninth and Chestnut Streets ; the Blind Asylum, • Male and Female High Schools, the Cus- tom House, and Post-Ofiice, corner Greene and Third Streets ; Masonic Temple, cor- ner Fourth and Greene. Among the church edifices of the city the most note- worthy are : the Cathedral, on Walnut Street, corner of Fifth ; St. Paul's Epis- copal, at the intersection of Walnut and Sixth ; and the First Pi'esbyterian Church, opposite. The First Baptist Church is also an imposing structure. The Mercan- tile Library contaias upwards of 7,000 volumes. The collection of the Histori- cal Society contains many rare and val- uable works relative to the early settle ment of the State. The " Journal " (still conducted by the veteran poet and politi- cian Prentice) and the " Democrat " are the leading newspapers published in the city. The Louisville Theatre, another of the " institutions " of the city, is at the southeast corner of Fourth and Greene Streets. " Wood's " Theatre, also a pop- ular place of resort, is at the intersection of Jefferson with Fourth Streets. Tem- i ' perance Hall, in Market Street, is used t for lectures, fail's, etc. The chief exports of the city are tobacco, pork, hemp, and flour. A visit to the tobacco warehouses, which are large and numerous, will repay the stranger who finds himself with the v necessary leisure. VICmiTT. Jeffersonville, on the Indiana shore, op- posite Louisville, is the terminus of the railway to Indianapolis, and a place of much trade. Portland, a village on the Ohio River, at the foot of the falls, three miles below • Louisville. Silver Creek, four miles below the city, on the Indiana side, is a beautiful rocky Jj stream, and a favorite fishing and picnic II place of the Louisville ruralizers. Tliore ■' is a small but fair hotel here. It is reached by ferry from Portland. Harrod's Creek, eight miles up the JOTINGTON.] KENTUCKY. Lexington. }3hio, affords a pleasant excursion. The pexington and Bardstown turnpikes afford inany pleasant drives through a pretty .md well-cultivated country. The road long the borders of Bear Grass Creek, n the direction of Lexington, is very grecable. The fine forest vegetation, ^he charming park-like groves, the hemp- ields and the blue-grass pastures, all lelp to furnish delight in the Louisville ides and rambles. Gave Hill Cemetery is much admired or its monuments. It is in the imme- liate suburb of the city eastward. (For xcursion to the Mammoth Cave, see ouisville and Nashville Railway.) Coviiag'toiEi, opposite Cincinnati, is ne of the principal cities of Kentucky, ith a population of about 17,000. It is pon the Ohio, immediately below its oint of confluence with the Licking, cross the latter stream is the suburban iown of Newport. Steam ferries unite ovington with Cincinnati, and the great ispension bridge will soon make a yet etter means of communication thence, 'he city is built upon a broad and beau- iful plain, very much after the topog- iphy of the great Ohio city opposite, to diich, indeed, it may be regarded as sub- rban. This is the seat of the Western 'heological College, a prosperous and chly-endov/ed institution. There are ere large manufactories of hemp, silk, ad tobacco, also several large roUing- lills. The business of packing pork and eef is also extensively carried on. It the nortliern terminus of the Kentucky entral Railway. Novport, across the Licking River om Covington, has a population of Dout 14,000. Like the neighboring cit- s of Covington and Cincinnati, to which owes its prosperity, it is pleasantly and JVantageously situated. It will prob- ly soon absorb the adjoining villages E" Jamestown and Brooklyn. A suspen- on bridge connects it with Covington. The Railway route to Lexington from ovington runs southerly to the thriv- towns of Falmouth, Cynthiana, and laris, 99 miles to Lexington. At Fal- outh the road crosses the south branch the Licking River, along the banks ivhich stream the road mainly runs lar as Cynthiana. At Paris, 40 miles further, is the confluence of the Hueston and Stony Creeks, which are also crossed over a stone viaduct. Paris is the county seat of Bourbon County, the centre of one of the finest stock-raising districts of the State. FaliM-OMtla (39 miles), in Pendleton County, is prettily situated on a beautiful plain, watered by the Licking and the South Branch, which here unite their wa- ters. The neighborhood abounds in fine views. Cymtlfiiaiaa (66 miles), on the south fork of the Licking River, was incorpo- rated in 1802. It has accommodation for visitors. Fine fishing in the vicinity. l?jai°is (80 miles), the county town of Bourbon County, is the centre of one of the finest farming districts of the State. The manufacture of the famous Bourbon whiskey is extensively carried on in sev- eral large distilleries. To lovers of that somewhat popular beverage, no stronger inducement to sojourn here is deemed necessary. The Blue Lick Springs are reached by stage from this point. Sjcximg'toaa, 29 miles from Frank- fort ; 94 from Louisville ; 100 from Cin- cinnati. Hotel, the Plicenix House, an excellent house, newly arranged and refurnished. Lexington is one of the most opulent and beautiful of Kentucky's cities. Few in- land towns of the Union are more delight- fully situated, or afford greater attractions to the tourist or traveller. It is situated on the lower fork of the Elkhorn River. In population and trade it is the second city of the State. The streets are regular, broad, well paved, well built, and delight- fully shaded. Here is the seat of the Kentucky University, on the ruins of Transylvania University, the Law and Medical schools of which are held in high repute. This has been established in 1863. It has an endowment of $500,000. The students number 250. The University Library numbers over 25,000 volumes. The State Lunatic Asyhmi occupies a prominent locale. The city was founded in 1'7'76, and incorporated in 1782. Its population exceeds 10,000. Lexington Cemetery, in the west end of the city, is a pretty, sequestered spot, much frequent- ed by visitors to Lexington. It contains 60 acres, mostly woodland. It was laid 417 ASULAND.] KENTUCKY. [Frankiokt. out in 1849, in what was known as Bos- tvoll'a woods, and dedicated June, 1850. About 4,000 interments have been made up to this time, 18C6. The chief attraction of the phice is the monument to Ken- tucky's iUustrious statesman, IIenrtClay. It stands on an eminence near the centre of the ground, and can be seen for miles around. The corner-stone was laid July 4, 185*7, and the structure completed in 1860, at a cost of $50,000— the State subscribing $20,000. Aslal5iH4l, the home of Clay, is in the immediate vicinity. The old Clay homestead stood about a mile and a half from Lexington, and the lo- cality is, of course, the chief object of in- terest in this neighborhood. " Walking slowly and thoughtful up," says Mr. Gree- ley, " a noble avenue that leads easterly from Lexington, the traveller finds the road terminating abruptly in front of a modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, only two stories in height, and of no great ar- chitectural pretensions. Mr. Clay lived at Ashland between forty and fifty years. The place bore the name when he went to it, probably, as he said himself, on ac- count of the ash timber with which it abounds, and he made it one of the most delightful retreats in all the West. The estate is about 600 acres large, all under the highest cultivation, except some 200 acres of park which is entirely cleared of underbrush and small trees, and is, to use the words of Lord Morpeth, who stayed at Ashland nearly a week, the nearest ap- proach to an English park of any in this counti'y. It serves for a noble pasture, and here Mr. Clay had some of the finest horses and cattle in America. The larger part of the farm is devoted to wheat, rye, hemp, etc., and the crops look most splen- did. Mr. Clay paid great attention to the ornamentation of the laud Avith beautiful shade trees, shrubs, flowers, and fruit or- chards. From the road which passes the place on the northwest side, a carriage- way leads up to the house, lined with lo- cust, cypress, cedar, and other rare trees, and the rose, jasmine, and ivy clamber about them, and peep through the grass and the boughs like so many twinkling fairies. The mansion is nearly hidden from the road by the surrounding trees ; and is as quiet and secluded, save to the 418 throng of pilgrims continually pouring thither, as though it were a wilderness. After the death of Mr. Clay, the estate of Ashland was sold at public auction, but was purchased by James B. Clay, the great statesman's eldest son, and so the honored and beloved little homestead remains yet, happily, in the family pos- session. Let it be sacredly and forever preserved." The visitor to Ashland now will find the scene much changed since Mr. Greeley's visit. It is stripped of much of its beauty. The old homestead has been replaced by a house of more pre tentious style, but in other respects as much like the old one as it was possible to make it. It is occupied by the widow of the late Colonel Clay, who kindly al- lows it to be shown to visitors. It has recently been resold for a public purpose. ■^VoocltoBti'M, the estate of Mr. R. A. Alexander, is in Woodford County, near Spring Station, on the Lexington and Frankfort Railway, nearly equidistant from these two points. It contains over 2,000 acres of land, and is one of the largest and most valuable -farms in the State. The collection of thorough-bred stock at Woodburn is the finest in the United States. The famous thorough-bred stallion Lexington, purchased from bis late owner, Mr. Tenbroeck, at a cost of $15,000, is among the many and varied attractions of Woodburn. It is an easy walk from the Spring Station to Mr. Alex- ander's mansion. Fi-aialilbi't, the capital of Ken- tucky, is situated on the east bank of the Kentucky Eiver, 60 miles above its en- trance into the Ohio. The site of the town is a deep valley, surrounded by pre- cipitous hills. The river flows between deep limestone banks, the quarries of which yield a fine stone or marble, of which many of the houses are built. The heights on the northeast afford fine peeps at the beautiful scenery of the Kentucky waters. The ruins of the State Capitol occupy - an eminence, midway between the river and the upper end of the valley. It was a fine structure, built of marble, quarried in the neighborhood. Here, too, is the State Penitentiary. The town is coimeet- ed with the village of South Frankfort, across the river, by a chain bridge. Pop- ulation some 8,000' During the late rebel- i Paducah.] KENTUCKY. [The Mammoth Cave. lion the city was occupied by Confederate cavalry on the 6th September, 1862, but tlie damage to the capitol buildiugs was caused accidentally by fire in December, 1865. Rossersville, near Richmond, 50 miles south of Frankfort, was the scene of a fight between General Kirby Smith's forces and a small Federal force, in which the latter were routed. IIiu*i*od@1>ii.i*g,', a town of over 3,000 people, and the oldest settlement in Kentucky, is upon an eminence near Salt River, about 30 miles below Frankfort. iThe first cabin built in the State was erected here by Captain James Harrod, in 1774. It is the seat of Bacon College, founded in 1836, and of a ililitary Acad- emy. The greatest attraction, however, of Harrodsburg, is its celebrated mineral springs, which make it the most famoi^s ?ummer resort in the State. Good roads 3xtend throughout the neighborhood. (See \Harrodsburg Springs.) ]?Iiiiiford.s^"ille, on the right bank of Green River, 73 miles south of Louisville and 100 miles south of Frank- fort, is a place often visited by tourists through this section. Near the village is I remarkable spring, and six miles east ther natural curiosities. (See Sink-Holes )/ Kentucky.) The neighborhood was he scene of numerous encounters be- ween Generals Buell and Bragg, in the ampaign of 1862. The fine bridge over reen River, destroyed during the war, |ias been replaced. Twelve miles south f Muufordsville is Cave City Station, the oint of departure for the Mammoth Cave. Pa'™9 ^^^ its pleasant story, which will dehght the wondering visitor until he is almost petri- fied with astonishment at the sight of the great rock, knov/n as the Gianfs Coffin. Here begin the incrustations, ever varied in form and character, which are so much the delight of all visitors. The Giant's Coffin passed, we sweep round the Great Bend. Opposite is the Sick- Room. The Star Chamber is a splendid hall, with perpendicular arches on each side, and a flat roof. In the main avenue the side rocks are of a light color, and are strongly relieved against the dark ceiling, which is covered with countless sparkling substances, resembling stars. By a judicious display of lamps and Ben- gcd lights in this apartment, an almost magical effect is produced. It forms cue of the most — to many, the most attrac- tive feature of the cave. Wrighfs Rofmv- da (the Cross Room) has a ceiling of 400 feet span, and yet not a single pillar to . uphold it. The Black Chambers contain ruins which .remind us of old baronial castle walls and towers.- Through the Big Chimneys we ascend into an upper room, about the size of the main cave. Here are heard the plaintive whispers of a distant waterflill ; as we come nearer, the sound swells into a grand roar, and we J The Mammoth Oate.] KENTUCKY. [Springs, are close to the cataract. To enter the place called the Solitary Chamber^ by the way of the Htcmble Chute, we have to crawl upon our hands and knees for 15 or 18 feet beneath a low arch. Here is the Fairy Grotto, the character of which admirably realizes the promise of its name. The Chief City (Temple) in Ithe main cave (Grand Avenue) beyond the \liocky Pass, is 200 feet in diameter, and 40 peet high. The floors are piled with rock, [which give it the appearance of a ruined city. Other localities, in the direct pas- sage of the cave, as in some of tlie many detours, are appropriately named the Sleeps of Time, the Covered Pit, the Side- Saddle, the Bottomless Pit, the Labyrinth, the Dead Sea, and the Bandifs Hall. The Long Route. — On entering upon the Long Route, the visitor leaves the main jave at the foot of the Giant's Coffin, and lasses into the Deserted Chamber. The listance from the mouth of the cave to ;he Maelstrom, at the end of the Long loute, is 9 miles. Passing Wooden-Bowl Cave, llartha^s Palace, Shelby''s Dome, we |ross the Bridge of Sighs, and enter ,nother apartment, where those who fre- [uent the cave, and are therefore supposed know something of its mysteries, are 11 the habit of resting in a narrow, tor- uous avenue, called and known as Rev- UiTs' Hall. Fat Hail's Misery appropri- tely follows the Hall of Feasting and levelling. Crossing the river Styx by a atural bridge, we reach Lake Lethe, •hich visitors, desiring to extend their ex- loratious further, cross in boats. From ake Lethe the visitor is introduced to pe Great Walk, at the termination of liich he can take a boat on Echo River, [hich has a course of three quarters of a ile within the cave, and finally finds its itlet in Green River. Silliman^s Avenue still beyond. Parties visiting the cave Wffipient numbers, and accompanied a tiand, frequently sojourn here and ijoy the festivities of the Ball-Room. isitors, if they feel so disposed, may vel 200 miles in the different avenues d labyrinthine walks of this wonderful Proper care will insure against all k of danger. Colds, instead of being iutracted, are more often cured by the feit. Nowhere is the air in the slightest gree impure. So free is the cave from reptiles of every kind, that St. Patrick might be supposed to have exerted his fabled annihilating power in its favor. Combustion is everywhere perfect. No decomposition is met with. The waters of the springs and rivers of the cave are habitually fresh and pure. The tempera- ture is equable at all seasons, at 59 de- grees Fahrenheit. White's Cave is situat- ed about half a mile from the Cave Hotel. It is remarkable for the beauty of its stalactite formations. It is easily ex- plored, being but 500 yards long. Dia- mond (Rioherson's) Cave lies on the road to Indian and Mammoth Caves, half a mile west of the railway. Its chief beauty are its stalactite formations. Harrodsburg Springs. — This is one of the most fashionable watering-places of Kentucky, and is, during the season, " the grand field of tournament for Western flirtation, and the gathering-point for politicians out of harness, and for such wealthy Westerners and Southerners as like to spend their money on the side of the AUeghanies that slopes toward home." The hotel here, with all its surroundings and appointments, is most admirable. Dr. Graham, the liberal proprietor, has already expended more than $300,000 upon the embellishment of the place; and so ex- pended it, that it all sensibly contributes to the comforts and enjoyments of his guests. (For route, see Harrodsburg, a7ite.) Knob Lick is an interesting spot within excursion distance (15 miles) of the Har- rodsbui'g Springs. The knobs or hillocks here are from 100 to 200 feet high, more or less conical ; some of them insulated, others connected by crumbling isthmuses ; the whole forming a group of barren conoidal eminences, which are finely con- trasted with the deep verdure of the sur- rounding plain. The DeviVs Pulpit is a wonderful passage in the bold landscape of the Kentucky River. It is accessible from Harrodsburg in a twenty-mile excursion. The Blue Lick Springs is a watering- place of high repute, on the Licking River, in Nicholas County. These springs con- tain soda, magnesia, lime, sulphuretted hydrogen, and carbonic acid, in combina- tion with muriates and sulphates. A battle was fought here between the settlers 421 Springs.] KENTUCKY. [Natural Biudgk. and Indians, August 19, 1*782. (For route thither, see Paris, ante.) Drennon Sprhiffs (black and salt sul- phur) are upon the banks of the Ken- tucky, in Henry County. They may be reached by steamboat from Louisville. Poplar Mountain Springs are upon the Poplar Mountain top, in Clinton County, four miles from Albany. The scenery in this vicinage is remarkable for its beauty. Upon Indian Creek, not far from the springs, there is a perpendicular waterfall of 90 feet. The White Sulphur Springs are in Grayson County, four miles from Litch- field. They are very numerous, Tvithin a small area. The Tar and Breckenridge Wliife Sul- phicr Springs are in Breckenridge County, four miles from Cloverport. They are readily accessible from the Ohio River. The Breckenridge coal is found in this vicinity. The Tar and Sulphur Springs are upon Green River, in Davis County, near the " Old Yernon Settlements." There are other springs of reputation in this vicinity. Tlie Eseulajna Spri?igs (chalybeate and white sulphur) are in a beautiful valley of Lewis County. The Pox and Phillips Springs are in the abundant spring region of Fleming County. The Letionian Springs (sulphur) are upon the Bank Lick Road, near the Ohio River, and about four miles from Coving- ton. This is a pleasant excursion point from Cincinnati. The Parroqnet Springs are near Shepherdsville, in Bullitt County. The Sink-JIoks of KcntucJcg. — Of these curious cavities or depressions in the sur- face of the ground, known as sinks, re- markable examples are found in Ken- tucky. Sinking Creek, in Breckenridge County, suddenly disappears, and is not seen again within a distance of half a dozen miles. Near Munfordsville, in Hart County, . there is a strange spring con- nected with a mill-pond, the waters of which overflow the dam every twenty-four hours, rising 12 or 15 inches, and reced- ing to their ordinary level with the preci- sion of the tides. Six miles east of the same town there is a hole, in form like an inverted cone, which is '70 feet in diameter at the sm-face, and but 10 or 12 feet across 422 at a depth of 25 or 30 feet. Stones cast into this pit give no indication of touch- ing the bottom. There is yet another extraordinary sink in this neighborhood, on the top of an elevation, called French- man's Knob. It has been descended, by means of a rope, 275 feet, but without finding bottom. Natural Bridge. — There is an extra- a ordinary natural bridge in the roman- hi tic County of Christian. It is 130 feet ;• high, with a span of 70 feet. Dismals Pock is a frowning precipice, 160 feet 3 high, in Edmonson County. Cumber- 1 land Gap. — This passage of the Cum-n berland River through the mountains, in Knox County, 150 miles south of Lex- ington, is an imposing scene. The waters make their way between huge cliffs, 1,300 feet in height. This famous gap gained considerable prominence during the re- cent campaign in Kentucky. It was sur- rendered to the Federal forces under General Shackleford, September 7, 1863. Wata-falls. — Besides the cascades of the Indian Creek, near Poplar Mountain, of which we have already made mention, there are numerous beautiful waterfalls among the hills of Kentucky. The PenficJc Creel; in Cumberland County, presents some fine pictures of this kind. The traveller must not overlook, either, if his time serves for the exploration, the Pock House in Cumberland, the Indian Pock in Edmonson, I^iloi Pock in Christian, < and the Plat and the Anvil Pocks in Union County. The Mounds and Fortifications, which are numerous in Kentucky, aiford em- ployment enough for the antiquarian tourist. In Allen County, 17 miles from Bowling Green, there is a wall of solid lime- stone 200 yards in length, 40 feet high ; at its base SO feet thick, and at its summit six feet. It crosses a neck formed of a curve in Drake's Creek, and shuts in a peninsula of about 200 acres, elevated 100 feet above ■ the river. Upon the crown of this emi: i nence, an area of three acres is sur- i rounded by a wall and ditch, making the 1 place a fortress of immense strength. '■ Other strange ancient works may be found i in Warren, S^jencer, Boone, La Rue, i Montgomery, Barren, and Bourbon Coun- >ij ties. "The Big Bone Licks of Boone County exliibit the great bones of the mastodon Mounds.] KENTUCKY. [Routes land other extinct animals. Curious fossil remains are found in Bourbon County. [Impressions of the feet of men and of [animals may be seen in a rock near Mor- ganfield, in Union County. Both the antiquarian and the geolo- gist have a fine field within the domains of Kentucky, in which to gratify their taste and prosecute their studies. The usually travelled routes from Kew York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Wash- ington, southward, have been sufficient- ly described in the foregoing pages. For the convenience of those making the Southern Tour by water from Cincinnati or St. Louis, the editor of the " Hand- book " deems it important to incorporate in this portion of the work brief sketches of these cities, and other points of inter- est on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. For more extended descriptions of these cities and vicinage, the reader is referred to the chapters on Ohio and Mississippi. 423 TUE OHIO RIVER. I THE OHIO RIYEE. l_Sce accompanying map.'\ One of the most important points for tlic traveller to consider and determine upon before taking a trip down the Ohio, or indeed any river, is the choice of a boat. In vain are iine weather and pleas- ant company, if the craft you have select- ed be not seaworthy and comfortable ; a leaky stateroom, a wheezy 'scape-pii)e or two, a defective boiler, are things to be avoided at all times, but especially so when starting on a voyage of a thousand miles or more, extending over a period of several days. If the traveller have the opportunity, and is " posted " in such mat- ters, it is always well to go aboard the day before starting, and examine for him- self. If not, let him consult his landlord, or still better, some friend whose judg- ment may be relied on, and be thus guided in his choice. The regular packet lines are the most reliable, and these usually have one boat daily. The fare from Cincinnati or St. Louis to New Orleans, is usually about the same, varying from $25 to $40, according to the season of the year, the stage of water, and the prob- able duration of the passage. The dis- tance from Cincinnati to Cairo, at the mouth of the river, is 500 miles, and the time usually occupied in making it, two days, though it is Sometimes travelled by the regular packets in less. The traveller, as he descends this noble I'iver in the spring of the year — when its banks are full, and the beautiful red-bud and Cornus Florida deck the declivities of th.e bluffs, which sometimes rise 300 feet iu height, impend over the river, and cast their grand shadows into the transparent waters, and are seen at intervals in its luxuriant bottoms, while the towering sycamore throws its venerable and majes- tic arms, decke.d with rich foliage, over the other ti'ees — will readily acknowledge 424 the appropriateness of the title, of wliich the early French explorers gave it, " La Belle Riviere.''^ The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela, the former being navigable for keel-boats as far as Olean, in the State of New York, a distance of about 250 miles ; tlie latter is navigable for steam- boats to Brownsville, 60 miles, and by keel-boats upwards of 175 miles. These two streams unite at Pittsburg and form the Ohio, which after a course of one thousand miles unites its waters ^ith those of the Mississippi. No other river of the same length has such a unifonn, smooth, and placid current. Its average width is about 2,400 feet, and the descent, in its whole course, is about 400 feet. At Pittsburg it is elevated about 1,150 feet above the ocean. It has no fall, ex- cept a rocky rapid of twenty-two and a half feet descent at Louisville, around which is a canal two and a half niilca long, with locks sufficiently capacious to admit large steamboats, though not of the largest class. (See Louisville.) Dur- ing half the year this river has a depth of water allowing of navigation by steam- boats of the first class through its whole course. It is, however, subject to ex- treme elevations and depressions. The average range between high and low wa- ter is probably 50 feet. It lowest stage is m September, and its highest in March. It has been known to rise 12 feet in a night. Various estimates have been made of the rapidity of its current, but owing to its continually varying, it would be difficult to assign any very exact esti- mate. Between Pittsburg and its mouth it is diversified by many considerable islands, some of which are of exquisite beauty ; besides a number of tow-heads and sand-bars, which in low stages of the :fl THE OHIO RIVER. ^ater greatly impede the navigation. ihe passages between some of the islands nd the sand-bars at their head are nong the difficulties of the navigation the Ohio. In the infancy of the puntry, every species of water craft was nployed in navigating this river, some which were of the most whimsical and nusing description. The barge, the el-boat, the Kentucky-flat or family- at, the pirogue, ferry-boats, gondolas, itft, dug-outs, and many others, formerly ated iu great numbers down the cur- jnts of the Ohio and Mississii^pi Rivers their points of destination, at distances metimes of three thousand miles. Ow- to the difficulties of navigating the er between Pittsburg and Cincinnati, d the facilities of speedy communica- )n between these cities by rail, the pount of travel, except between way ints on the river, is very small. hie of distances on the OMo, from Pitfs- burg to Cincinnati. Middletown, Pa 11 Economy, Pa 8 Froedom, Pa 6 Beaver, Pa 5 Georgetown, Pa 14 Liverpool, Ohio 4 Wellsville, Ohio 4 Steiibenville, Ohio 19 Wellsburg, Ta T "Warrenton, Ohio 7 Martinsville, Ohio 8 Wheeling:, Va. I Bridgeport, Ohio ) Elizabethtown, Va. ) ^„ ~i\g Grave Creek, Va. f ^^ few Martinsville, Va 10 isterville, Va 29 toewport, Ohio 13 Marietta, Ohio 18 Vienna, Va 6 arkersburg, Va. ( „ ielpre, Ohio < ° lennerhasset's Island 2 ockingsport, Ohio 11 ellvillOj Va 4 lurraysville, Va 5 hadePiver, Ohio 1 lavenswood, Va 11 ^etartsville, Ohio 22 'omeroy 14 ^alport, I hctlield, Ohio f oint Pleasant, Va. ) ^„ t. Kanawha Ki ver, Va. f ^^ allipolis. Ohio 4 . lilillersport, Ohio 24 pruyandotte, Va. 1 poctorsville, Ohio ) liJurlington, Ohio 8 ;ig Saiidy Kiver 4 19 25 80 44 48 52 71 78 85 93 1 94 107 117 146 158 177 182 188 190 201 205 210 211 222 244 258 1 259 271 275 299 13- 312 820 824 Hanging Eock, Ohio 13 337 Greenupsburg, Ky 6 843 Wheelersburg, Ohio 8 351 Portsmouth, Ohio I -.n qrq Scioto Paver. Ohio ( ■^" "^^"^ Eockville, Ohio 16 379 Eome, Ohio 10 8S9 Concord, Ky 6 395 Manchester, Ohio 7 404 Maysville, Ky. ) 12 414 Aberdeen, Ohio f 1/ 414 Charleston, Ky 7 421 Eipley, Ohio 2 423 Higginsport, Ohio 7 430 Augusta, Ky 4 434 Mechanicsburg, Ky 7 441 Neville, Ohio 3 444 Moscow ' 4 448 Pt. Pleasant, Ohio I a ako Belmont. Ky. f * ^°'' New Eiohmond 5 457 Little Miami Eiver, Ohio 14 471 Columbia | 1 -ito Jamestown, Ky. f ^ **'' Cincinnati, Ohio ) ~ .>,„ Newport & Covington, Ky. f ° *' ' CINCINNATI. The " Queen City of the West," as Cincinnati has not inappropriately been called, is pleasantly situated on the north bank of the Ohio, 500 miles from its mouth; and near the confluence of the Licking River, which enters from Ken- tucky just above Covington, on the op- posite side of the river. Its central po- sition, at the very heart of the railway and inland navigation system of the country, secures to the traveller easy and rapid ac- cess from every quarter of the Union. From New York the most direct route thither is by the Atlantic and Great Western Railway via Salamanca and Mans- field, distance 862 miles. The New York and Erie route, and the Hudson River or Harlem Railway to Albany, and thence by the Central to Buffalo or Dunkirk, and thence via Cleveland and Columbus, are not unfrequently taken. From Philadelphia, by the Pennsylvania Central Railway via Pittsburg, Crestline, and Columbus, distance 722 miles. The scenery of the Pennsylvania Central is much admired. From Baltimore the route is by the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, via Wheel- ing or Parkersburg, distance 636 miles. Adding the distance from New York to Baltimore, 186 miles, the entire distance from New York to Cincinnati, bv this 425 THE OHIO RIVER. route, is 822 miles. Tlie beautiful scenery and other attractions of this fine road hold out strong- inducements to tourists and pleasure travellers. As remarked in the chapter on Marjdand, parties making Bal- timore their point of departure from the North Atlantic seaboard, have a choice of routes : they can either proceed directly south, by way of Washington and Rich- mond, or taking the route here laid down, they can pursue their journey from Cin- cinnati by steamer. The traveller's own taste, and the time and means at his com- mand, will decide as to the best choice to make. The Cincinnati hotels, though by no means what they should be either as regards style or comfort, are sufficient- ly attractive to make a short stay desir- able after the fatigues of a journey from the East, and the stranger can profitably and pleasantly spend a few days in view- ing the city and its pretty environs. The Burnet House is centrally and pleasantly located on Vine and Third Streets. It is conducted by Captain Silas F. Miller, for- merly of the " Gait House," Louisville. The Spencer House^ on Broadway, near . the steamboat landing, is an old and fa- vorite stopping-place. The Broadway Hotel, at the intersection of Broadway and Second Street, is also conveniently located for travellers by the river. The Walnut Street House and Merchants' Hotel are among the best of their class. Among the various restaurants of the city, the St. Nicholas, at the corner of Fourth and Race Streets, in the immediate neighbor- hood of the Burnet House, is the best worthy of patronage. Reading and bil- liard rooms attached. The city proper is compactly built upon two plateaus or terraces, ranging in alti- tude from 50 to 110 feet above low- water mark in the Ohio. The city occupies the river shore for more than three miles, and its area is rapidly extending. The streets are generally of good width, well paved and well lighted. The principal thorough- fares are Fourth, Broadway, Main, and Pearl Streets. The Levee, though by no means so extensive as that of New Orleans, forms a characteristic feature of the place. Fourth Street is the fashionable promenade. The markets and many of the retail establishments are located in Fifth Street, which is generally thronged 426 at certain hours each day with a motl< multitude of every class. Among tli public buildings of the city worthy of m tice are the Observatory on Mount Adanii in the eastern part of the city, the cornt stone of which was laid November 1843, by John Quincy Adams. The tel scope, by Mentz and Mahler of MuniC' is a valuable instrument, and cost |?10,00" The Masonic Temple, on the northea corner of Walnut and Third, is an elegai; structure. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of k Peters, at the intersection of Plum an Eighth Streets, has a powerful organ ar. some fine paintings. The altar is o Carrara marble, by Chiappri, of Genoa The Custom House, adjoining the Burnii House at the corner of Vine and Four! Streets, is a fine structure, in the Corii thiau style. In it are also located tli Post-Office and United States Court The City Hcdl is in Plum Street, betwee Eighth and Ninth. The Merchants' E. change, on Walnut Street, near Fourth, i a handsome edifice, with a front of 14 feet, in the Greco-Doric order. Thi rooms of the Mercantile Library Associi tion are in this building. The coUectio of books numbers 23,000. Strangei introduced by members have access t the shelves and to the files of news, papers. The principal places of amusemeii' are Wood''s Theatre, on Vine Street come i of Sixth, and the National Theatre, ii Sycamore Street, below Fourth. Pike' Opera House, recently destroyed by firei was considered, next to that in PhUadeli phia, the finest in the Union. The Swt pension Bridge which spans the river be low the foot of Vine Street will attrac the stranger's attention. The towers ari 1,006 feet apart and 230 feet high. I was commenced September 1,1856, am is not yet quite complete. It is the worl of John A. Roebling, the architect of tin Niagara Suspension Bridge, and is a mag. nificent structure. Its entire cost wih not fall short of one million dollars. Th<] vicinity of Cincinnati abounds in beautiful! drives ; that to Spring Grove Cemetery h among the most attractive. This beautiu ful burying-ground is in the valley of! Mill Creek, four miles northwest of thl ! city. It embraces 220 acres, and itl! THE OHIO EIVER. adorned with many fine monuments. Tiie Lunatic Asylum, a large brick build- ing, occupies a prominent locale on the opposite side of Mill Creek. Madison Road, and its continuation, Grandin Road, affords a pleasant drive. The residences of Mr. Joseph Long- worth, the famous wine-grower and manu- facturer, of Mr. Harrison, and of Captain P. W. Strader, all well-known citizens, are seen from this road. Extended views of the Ohio River are obtained from the bluff top in front of Mr. Harrison's mansion. A visit to Longworth's Wine-House is among the most noteworthy events of the appreciative traveller's visit to Cin- cinnati. The " Vaults " have capacity for upwards of a million bottles. Ap- plication for admission to the vaults should be made to Mr. William P. Ander- son, a nephew of Mr. Longworth's, who has sole management of the establish- ment. Formerly the neighborhood of Cincinnati abounded in vineyards, but of late years the grape crop has failed, and Mr. Longworth and other large growers have abandoned their cultivation entirely. It is now mainly conducted by the Ger- nans, whose experience and thrifty habits inable them to make it remunerative in pite of blight and early frost. Cincinnati las a world-wide reputation for the quan- ity and quality of the pork packed ; the xtent of the business is sufficiently ap- arent to the stranger who frequents that art of the city in which the slaughtering ud packing is carried on. Some of the lacking-houses are very large, and to the lurious in such matters are worth visit- ng. Oistances from Cincinnati to the mouth of the Ohio. \^ North Bciul, 16 Great Miiinii Eiver, 4 20 Petorslnirg;, Ky 5 25 Bellcview, Ky 8 83 Eisint; yui), Incl 3 86 Big Bono Lick Creek, \ ,„ .^ Hamilton, Ky. \ ^^ 48 Warsaw, Ky ] 2 60 Vevay, Ind' 10 70 Kentucky Eiver 10 80 Madison, Ind 12 92 Hanover Landing, Ind 6 98 New London, Ind 4 102 Westport, Ky 6 103 Utica,Ind 15 123 Jeffersoville, Ky 9 132 Louisville, Ky 1 183 and from Pittsburg 610 Shippingsport, Ky 2 185 Portland, Ky. ) i iqa New Albany, Ind. \ ^ ^"^^ Salt Eiver, and I iq ikj West Point, Kj^ j ^" ''^ Brandenburg, Ky 18 172 Northampton, Ind 10 182 Amsterdam, Ind 3 185 Leavenworth, Ind 8 193 I?'redonia. Ind 5 198 Alton, Ind 13 211 Concordia, Ky. ; 10 221 Eome, Ind., and ) ^-, noo Steven sport, Ky. 5 ^^ ^^ Cloversport, Ky 10 242 Carmelton, Ind 13 255 Troy, Ind 6 261 Lewisport, Ky 6 267 Eockport, Ind 12 279 Owensburg, Ky 9 288 Enterprise, Iiid 6 294 Newburg, Ind 15 809 Green Eiver, Ky 6 815 Evansville, Ind 9 324 Hendersonville, Ky 12 336 Mount Vernon, Ind 26 362 Uniontown, Ky 15 877 Wabash Eiver 5 882 Ealeigh, Ky , 6 388 Shawneetown, 111 5 893 Casey ville, Ky 9 402 Cave In Eock, 111 14 416 Elizabeth, 111 6 422 Goleonda, 111 28 445 Cumberland Eiver, and I -,.- ,„„ Smithland, Ky. ) " ^^^ Tennessee Elver, and ^ io An a Paducah,Ky \ ^^ *^^ Belgrade,Ill 8 482 Fort Massac, 111 2 484 Caledonia, 111 25 509 America, 111 3 512 Tnnity,Ill 5 517 Cairo, 111., and I _ kho Mouth of the Ohio Elver, f ° °^^ and from Pittsburg 999 Distances from Pittsbxirg and Cincinnati hy hoat. From Cin. From PVcr. To St. Louis, Mo 697 1174 Memphis, Tenn 7G7 1264 Vicksburg. 1158 1630 Natchez 1269 1746 New Orleans 1548 2025 [For descriptive skotches of places and ob- jects of interest in the above list, see chapters on Kentucky, etc.] 42*7 THE MlSSISSirn RIVER. THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEE l_Sce accompanying map.'\ The disappointment which the traveller feels in looking upon this famous river for the first time, is only exceeded by the counteracting impression which a journey down it leaves upon the mind.. A more intimate acquaintance with the extent and resources of the country tributary to it, which repeated visits to points distributed along its entire course alone can give, only serves to heighten this impression, and " make this wonder greater grow." Discovered in 16*72, its true source was not fully determined until its exploration by Schoolcraft, who, in 1832, ascertained that it took its rise in a small lake situated in 4'7° N. latitude and 94° 54' W. longitude from Greenwich. This lake, called by the French Lac la Biche — by recent geographers Itasca (from Veritas Capui^ the true head), is a beautiful sheet of water, of an irregular shape, about eight miles in length, situated among hills cov- ered with pine forests, and fed chiefly by springs. It is elevated above 1,500 feet above the ocean, and is at a distance of more than 3,000 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The river drains an extent of territory which, for fertility and vastness, is unequalled upon the globe. This ter- ritory, termed the " Mississippi Valley," extends from the sources of the Missis- sippi in the north to the Gulf of Mexico in the south, and from the Alleghany Mountains on the east to the Rocky Mountains on the west. A more correct estimate of its area may be formed thus : Take a position on the Gulf of Mexico, where it empties its accumulated waters, and run a line northwestward to the Rocky Mountains, from whence issue the sources of the Arkansas, Platte, and other smaller streams ; from this point, along the Rocky Mountains to the sources of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers ; 428 around the northern sources of the latter river to the headwaters of Red River, a branch of the Assiniboin ; around the sources of the Mississippi proper, to tlie headwaters of the Wisconsin and Illi- nois Rivers ; between the confluents of the lakes, and those of the Ohio, to the extreme source of the Alleghany River ; along the dividing line between the sour- ces of streams flowing into the Ohio River, and those flowing toward the At- lantic ; between the confluents of the Tennessee, and those streams emptying into Mobile Bay ; between the sources discharged into the Mississippi, and those into the Tombigbee and Pearl Rivers ; to the mouth of the Mississippi, and from its mouth to the outlet of the Atchafala- ya — the whole presenting an outhne of more than 6,000 miles, or an area of about 1,210,000 square miles. The Mis- sissippi River is navigable for steamboats with but partial interruption, as far north as the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of 2,037 miles ; its course, however, is ex- tremely crooked, and not unfi-equently a bend occurs from twenty to thirty miles round, while the distance across is not more than a mile or two. In some in- stances, however, these distances have been shortened by what are termed "cut- offs," which are made by opening a narrow channel across the neck of a bend, when, on admitting the water, the current, run- ning with such velocity, soon forces a channel both wide and deep enough for ' the largest steamboats to go through. The navigation is frequently rendered dangerous, owing to the mighty volume of water washing away from some pro- jecting point large masses of earth, with its huge trees, which are carried down the stream. Others, again, are often imbed- ded in the mud, with their tops rising J THE MISSISSIPPI EIVER. kbove the water, and not unusually caus- ing the destruction of many a fine craft. These are called, in river phraseology, snags " and " sawyers." The whirls, or eddies, caused by the striking" peculiar- ities of the river in the uniformity of its ineanders, are termed " points " and bends," which have the precision, in inany instances, as though they had been struck by the sweep of a compass. These ire so regular,, that the flatboat-men fre- i^uently calculate distances by them ; in- tead of the number of miles, they esti- [nate their progress by the number of t I ends they have passed. A short dis- ance from its source, the Mississippi be- omes a tolerably-sized stream ; below the Falls of St. Anthony it is half a mile jvide, and below the Des Moines Eapids t assumes a medial width and character 10 the mouth of the Missouri. About 13 niles below the mouth of the St. Croix liver, the Mississippi expands into a )eautiful sheet of water, called Lake 'epin, which is 2-4 miles long, and from wo to four miles broad. The islands, which ,re numerous, and manj' of them large, lave, during the summer season, an as- )ect of great beauty, possessing a gran- ieur of vegetation, which contributes auch to the magnificence of the river. The lumerous sand-bars are the resort, durmg lie season, of innumerable swans, geese, nd water-fowl. The Upper Mississippi a beautiful river, more so than the >hio ; its current is more gentle, its water learer, and it is a third wider. In gen- ral it is a mile wide, yet, for some dis- mce before commingling its waters with tie Missouri it has a much greater width. I.t the junction of the two streams, it is mile and a half wide. The united stream, owing from thence to the mouth of the 'hio, has an average width of Httle more han three-quarters of a mile. On its niting with the Missouri it loses its dis- inctive character. It is no longer the eutle, placid stream with smooth shores nd clean sand-bars, but has a furious ^id boihng current, a turbid and danger- us mass of waters, with jagged and di- ^pidatcd shores. Its character of calm icinificence, that so delighted the eye ■ ■.e, is seen no more. :4t. ILionis occupies relatively to the s.'est, is between 1,200 and 1,300 miles, with a breadth varying from 200 to 300 miles. 1 Discovert, Settlement, and Rulers. — The earliest discovery of Canada (1497) is ascribed to Sebastian Cabot. Jacques Cartier, a French adventurer, spent the winter of 1541 at St. Croix, now the River St. Charles, upon which Quebec is partly built. The first permanent settle- ment, however, was at Tadousac, at the confluence of the Saguenay and the St. ILawrence. From that time (about 1608) until 1759, the connti'y continued uuder f.he rule of France ; and then came the bapture of Quebec )>y the English, under preneral Wolfe, and the transfer, within a year thereafter, of all the territory of New frrancc, as the country was at that time called, to the British power, under which it has ever since remained. The mutual disagreement which naturally arose from the conflicting interests and prejudices of the two opposing nationalities, threatened internal trouble from time to time, and finally displayed itself in the overt acts recorded in history as the rebellion of 183*7. It was after these incidents, and as a consequence thereof, that the two sections of the territory were formed into one. This happened in 1840. Government. — ^Canada is ruled by an executive, holding' the title of Governor- General, received from the crown of Great Britain, and by a legislature called the Provincial Parliament. This body con- sists of an Upper and a Lower House ; the members of the one were formerly ap- pointed by the Queen, but now (as fast as those thus placed die) this body is, like the other branch, chosen by the people, each member for a term of eight years. Religion. — The dominant religious faith in Lower Canada, or Canada East, is that of the Romish Church ; while in the Upper Province the creed of the English Established Church prevails. Landscape. — The general topography of Upper or Western Canada is that of a level country, with but few variations ex- cepting the passage of some table-heights, extending southwesterly. It is the most fertile division of the territory, and thus, to the tourist in search of the iDicturesque, the least attractive. The Lovf er Province, 435 Springs.] CANADA. [Kailways. or Canada East, is extremely varied and beautiful in its physical aspect ; present- ing to the delighted eye a magnificent gallery of charming pictures of forest wilds, vast prairies, hill and rock-bound rivers, rushing waters, and bold mountain heights, everywhere intermingled, and their attractions embellished by inter- vening stretches of cultivated iields, rural villages, and villa homes. Mountains. — The hill-ranges of Cana- da are confined entirely to the lower or eastern province. The chief lines, called the Green Mountains, follow a parallel course southwesterly. They lie along the St. Lawrence River, on its southern side, extending from the latitude of Quebec to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There is an- other and corresponding range on the north side of the river, with a varying elevation of about 1,000 feet. The Mealy Mountains, which extend to Sand- wich Bay, rise in snow-capped peaks to the height of 1,500 feet. The Wotchish Mountains, a short, crescent-shaped group, lie between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Hudson's Bay. Rivers. — Canada has many noble and beautiful rivers, as the St. Lawrence, one of the great waters of the world ; the wild, mountain-shored floods of the Ottawa, and the Saguenay ; and the lesser waters of the Sorel or Richelieu, the St. Francis, the Chaudiere, and other streams. SPRINGS. Xlie Caledonia, Sprisigs. — The Caledonia Springs, a place of much resort, are at the village of Caledonia, 72 miles from Montreal. Leave Montreal by the Lachine Railway, and take the steamer to Carillon. At Point Fortune, opposite Carillon, on the other side of the Ottawa, take stage to the Springs, arriving the same evening. l^laMtag-eiaet Spa'iiag'S. — ^From Montreal to Point Fortune, as in the route to the Caledonia Springs ; and thence by stage, arriving same evening. Distance, 88 miles. The consumption of the " Plan- tagenet water " is said to be very great. 'FSie §t. SjCOsi Spriasg'S are at the village of St. Leon, on the Riviere du Loup, " en haut," between Montreal and Quebec ; 26 miles by stage from Three 436 Rivers, a landing of the St. Lawrence steamers. St. Catliarine's. — St. Cathar- ine's, Canada West, on the Great Western Railway, 11 miles from Niagara Falls, and 32 miles from Hamilton. See St. Catharine's, en route from Montreal to Niagara, via the St. Lawrence. WATERFALLS IN CANADA. Niagara. — (See chapter on the State of New York.) I'^alls of Moiatm,oreiici. — (See Quebec.) The CIiaMdiere Falls, on the Ottawa. Tlie Claaiidiere Falls, Que- bec. — (See City of Quebec.) TIae Midean Falls.— (See Ot- tawa River.) Tiie Falls of Slia^vanegan are on the River St. Maurice, 25 miles from Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence River, between Montreal and Quebec. The St. Maurice, 186 feet in breadth at this point, makes a perpendicular descent of about 200 feet. The imposing char- acter of this scene is, as yet, but little known. Between the falls and the town of Three Rivers the St. Maurice affords excellent fishing. St. Aiiiie's Falls are 24 miles below Quebec. — (See Quebec.) RAILWAYS The Grand Trunk connects Montreal with Quebec, and each with Portland in Maine. From Montreal it follows the ' upper shore of the St. Lawrence and of Lake Ontario to Toronto, and thence con- tinues westward, across the peninsula of Canada West, via Port Sarnia, on the southern extremity of Lake Huron to the city of Detroit, in Michigan. The whole length of the road, with its present branches, is 1,050 miles. It connects with routes to Niagara Falls, with the '- line of the Great Western and Detroit < and Milwaukee Railways, and with other i routes to the West and Northwest. The Great Western Railway extends from Niagara Falls, 229 miles, west to Detroit, Michigan, connecting with the Michigan Central route for Chicago, etc. The Montreal and New York road ex- Montreal.] CANADA. [MONTEBAL. tends from Montreal, 67 miles, to Platts- bucg, and is a part of a route from Mon- treal to New York. The Champlain and St. Lawrence Rail- way extends from Montreal, 44 miles, to Rouse' sPoint on Lake Champlain, thence to New Yoi'k, Boston, etc. The JVortkem Eaihuai/ of Canada ex- tends, 94 miles, from Toronto on Lake lOntario to Collingwood on the Georgian [Bay, Lake Huron. It forms part of a pleasant route from New York to Lake Superior. i The Ottawa and Prescoit Railway ex- pends from Prescott (opposite Ogdens- pm'g), on the St. Lawrence, 54 miles, to bttawa, on the Ottawa River. The Hamilton and Toronto Branch ex- ;ends, 38 miles, from Toronto to Hamilton, !onnecting the Grand Trunk and the (xreat Western routes. The Coburg and Peterhoro' Railway^ !8 miles, from Peterboro' to Coburg, on he Hue of the Grand Trunk^ between (lontreal and Toronto. Many other routes are either ia prog- ess or in contemplation — Canada vying f ith the " States " in this field of enter- MONTREAL. Hotels, the St. Lawrence Hall, Great t. James Street, a fine house, centrally )cated and well kept; the Donegana, [otre-Dame Street ; the Ottawa, Great t. James Street ; and the Montreal House, ustom-House Square, and opposite the ustom-House. Besides these leading stablishments, there are many other jmfortable houses and cafes, where avellers of all ranks and classes may 3 lodged and regaled according to the iried humors of their palates and their irses. Montreal may be reached daily from cw York in from 15 to 18 hours, by the '^udson River or Harlem Railways to poy ; rail to Whitehall, and steamer on ake Champlain ; or by rail through Ver- iont, via Rutland, Burlington, and St. Ibans to Rouse's Point, or via Platts- iirg on Laka Champlain. From Boston, a Albany, or other routes to Lake laraplain, etc. ; or, via Portland and Grand Trunk Railway ;' time 30 hours. Montreal, the metropolis of British. North America, is situated on an island of the same name, about thirty miles long and ten wide, which is formed by a branch of the Ottawa on the north and the St. Lawrence on the south, and lies at the foot of a mountain, to which Jacques Cartier, in 1535, surveying with delight the magnificent prospect, gave the name of " Mont Royal." The pres- ent site of Montreal was occupied, at the time of Cartier's first visit, by an Indian village called Hochelaga. In 1542 the first European settlers ari'ived, and just one century later the original Indian name, consequent on the consecration of the spot on which the future city was to stand and its commendation to La Reine des Anges, gave place to the French one of " Ville Marie." This new name, in its turn, was replaced by the present one, in 1*760, the date of British possession ; at which period Montreal had become a well- peopled and well-fortified town. Its population is now (1867) estimated at 125,000, and is rapidly on the increase. The main branch of the Ottawa, which is the timber highway to Quebec, passes north of Montreal Island, and enters the St. Lawrence about 18 miles below the city ; about one-third of its waters is, however, discharged into Lake St. Louis, and joioing but not mingling at Caughna- waga, the two distinct bodies pass over the Sault St. Louis and Lachine Rapids — the dark waters of the Ottawa washing the quays of Montreal, while the blue St. Lawrence occupies the other shore. Nor do they merge their distinctive character until they are several mOes below Montreal. The quays of Montreal are unsurpassed by those of any city in America ; built of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and cut-stone wharves of the La- chine Canal, they present for several miles a display of continuous masonry, which has few parallels. Unlike the levees of the Ohio and the Mississippi, no unsightly warehouses disfigure the river-side. A broad esplanade or terrace, built of lime- stone, the parapets of which are sur- mounted with a substantial iron railing. The houses in the suburbs are hand- somely built in the modern style, and mostly inhabited by the wealthy mer- chants. Including its suburbs, of which it 437 Montreal.] CANADA. [MONTUEAI has several, the city stretches along the river for two miles from southwest to northeast, aud, for some distance, extends between one and two miles inland. St. Paul Street, the chief commercial thor- oughfare, extends along the river the whole length of the city. Great St. James and Notre-Dame Streets are the fashion- able promenades. Montreal, with its beautiful villas, its glittering roofs and domes (all the latter being covered with tin), its tall spires and lofty towers, and its majestic mountain in the background, bursting on the eye of the tourist, ap- proach it from what direction he may, forms, together with the noble river, a vast and picturesque panorama that is, perhaps, unequalled in the whole of the American continent. The " Ice ShoTe," a most imposing spectacle, may be witnessed by those travellers who arrive at Montreal toward the beginning of April. This strange phenomenon results from the crowding of the ice about a mile below the citj^, where the channel of the river is com- paratively narrow; there it is packed, piled, and frozen into a solid mass of twenty to thirty feet in thickness, which, when lifted by the rising waters above, and set in motion again by the whole hy- draulic power of the gigantic stream, rushes onward until again impeded by the banks of the narrowing river. The lateral pressure it there exerts forces the hordage up on the land, where it not unfrequently accumulates to the height of 50 feet. Montreal is conspicuous among the cities of the New World for the number and magnificence of her public buildings. The principal of these is the cathedral of Notre-Dame, said to be the largest church on the continent. The cost of the cathedral was $400,000, and it is capable of seating 10,000 persons. It is surmounted by two stately towers, each 220 feet high, from the top of which is a complete view of the city, the Rivef St. Lawrence, the colossal tubular bridge, and the blue hills of Vermont in the distance. At certain hours of the day a chime of bells peal forth their merry notes from the northeast tower, and from the north- west is sometimes heard the hoarse, hol- low tone of the " Gros Bourdon," which weighs 29,400 pounds. This noble edi- I 438 ' ' fice is 255 feet long and 135 broad The Bonsccours Market is an imposin; Doric edifice, erected at a cost of $300,000 and, as regards the convenience of its ar raugements and the spaciousness of it construction, it throws into the shade al similar structures on this continent. Ii one of the upper stories are the offices of the Corporation and Council Chamber aud a concert or ball room capable ol accommodating 4,000 people. The viev from the dome, overlooking the river ano St. Helen's Isle, is truly grand. The Nelson Monument, an elegant col umn erected to the memory of that re uowued naval hero, stands at the heai of the Place Jacques Cartier. The Seminary of St. Sidpice, adjoinint: the Cathedral Notre Dame, is 132 fee long, and 29 deep, and is surrounded b; spacious gardens and court-yards. The Bank of Montreal and the Ci{ Bank, the first a fine example of Corin thian architecture, stand side by side O] the Place d'Armes. St. Patrick''s Church (Catholic) occu pies a commanding position at the wes end of Lagauchetifere Street. The Bkh op's Church (Catholic), in St. Deni,; Street, is a very elegant structure. Thi remaining Oathohc churches are the Ri, collect in Notre-Dame Street, the Bonse cours, near the large market, and St Mary^s in GriffintowTi. There are alsi | chapels attached to all the nunneries, ii : some of which excellent pictures may b seen. Nunneries. — The Gray Nuns, in Found ling Street, was founded in 1692, for th care of lunatics and children. The Bote Bieu was established in 1644, for th' sick generally. The Black, or (Jongrcga tioncd Nunnery, in Notre-Dame Street dates from 1659. The sisterhood, at thi third and last of the conventual establishi ments of Montreal, devote themselves ti the education of young persons of thei own sex. The sti-anger desirous of visili iug either of the nunneries should apph to the Lady Superior for admission which is seldom refused. TheProtestan churches worthy of notice are St. Ai' drew's Church, a beautiful specimen o Gothic architecture, being a close iuiitt tion of Salisbury Cathedral, in Englaiu though of course on a greatly reduce , dONTREAL.] CANADA. [Ottawa River. icale. This, with S(. Faults Church, in St. Helen Street, are in connection with ihe Established Church of Scotland. The Gpiscopalian churches are, the beautiful lew edifice, Christ Church Cathedral, k. George's Church, in St. Joseph Street, te. Stephen''s, in Griffintown, Trinity, m it. Paul Street, and St. Thomases, in St. lary Street. Various other denomina- ions of Christians have churches — the jV^esleyans, a large and very handsome luilding in St. James Street, and also tilers in Griffintown and Montcalm [trect ; the Independents formerly had Ito houses, but now only the one in adegoude Street. This last was the ene of the sad riot and loss of life on e occasion of Gavazzi's lecture in 1852. he newly-erected Jesuit church, in leury Street, has the most highly or- fimeuted interior to be found in the city, he Free Church has also two places of orship one in Cote Street, and one in St. abriel Street ; besides these, there are le American and the United Presbyte- an, the Baptist, and the Unitarian lurches ; and a small Jewish synagogue, le last named being classical in design, lie Court-House is one of the most strik- g of the architectural specialities of the ty. The Fosi- Office is in Great James ;reet. The Custom-House is a neat lilding on the site of an old market- ace, between St. Paul Street and the Ver. The Merchants' Exchange and \eading-Room are in St. Sacrament Street. be latter is a large and comfortable cm, well supplied with newspapers and iriodicals, English and American, all at e service of the stranger when properly troduced. Tlie General Hospital and ■. Pairick^s Hospital are in Dorchester reet, the latter, however, at the west d of the town. McGiWs College is Ijautifully situated at the base of the puntain. The high-school department the college is in Belmont Street. The ;y also possesses, besides the university McGill's College, many excellent insti- Itions for the promotion of learning — ench and English seminaries, a royal ammar-school, with parochial, imion, tional, Sunday, and otherpublic schools. , has numerous societies for the ad- 'ucement of religion, science, and in- (|stry; and several public libraries. TJie Water-Works, a mile or so from the city, are extremely interesting for their own sake, and for the delightful scenery in the vicinity. The Victoria Bridge, which spans the great St. Lawrence at the city, is '' the lion par excellence of Montreal, the eighth wonder of the world, the link of the Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway purposes only) the city of Mon- treal, on the island, with the main-land to the south, giving to the ancient Hochelaga an unbroken railway communication of 1,100 miles in length, besides connec- tions." It is one of the noblest structures which we shall see in the whole long course of our American joumeyings. Its length is 9,194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. It rests, in this splendid transit, upon 24 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, the central span being 330 feet in length. The heavy iron tube through which the railway track is laid is, in its largest dimensions, 22 feet high and 16 feet wide. The total cost of this bridge was $6,300,- 000. It was formally opened, with high pomp and ceremony, amidst great popu- lar rejoicings, by the young heir to the British Crown, the Prince of Wales, during his visit to America in the summer of 1860. The Iluseum of the Natural History Society, near the Crystal Palace, is well worth seeing. Admission 25 cents. The Mount Royal Cemetery is 2 miles from the city, on the northern slope of the mountain. From the high road round its base, a broad avenue through the shaded hill-side gradually ascends to this pleasant spot. There are other romantic burying-grounds, both of the Catholic and the Protestant population, in the vicinity of Montreal, and other scenes which the visitor should enjoy — pleasant rides ail about, around the mountain and by the river, before he bids good-by to the Queen City of Canada. Tlie Otla^^a Kiver flows 800 miles and enters the St. Lawrence on both sides of the Island of Montreal, trav- ersing in its way Lake Temiscaming, Grand Lake, and others. Rapids and falls greatly impede the navigation of its waters; but lend to them wonderful beauty. It is a wild forest region, that of the Ottawa, but little occupied hereto- 439 St. Lawrence.] CANADA. [St. Lawrence. fore by others than the rude lumbermen, though numerous settlements are now springing up, and its agricultural capa- cities are being developed. MONTREAL TO NIAGARA FALLS— UP TUE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER AND LAKE ONTARIO. The traveller may go from Montreal to Niagara, either by steamer on the St. Lawrence, or by the Grand Tnmk Rail- way, ^'^'B miles to Toronto on Lake On- tario. At Toronto he may cross the western end of the lake to the town of Niagara, and thence reach the falls by the Erie and Ontario Railway, 14 miles long ; or he may go less directly by wa- ter or by rail to Hamilton, and thence by rail again to the falls. "Tine §t. IjsaT^'remce . — This grand river, which drains the vast inland seas of America, extends from Lake On- tario, 750 miles, to the Gulf of St. Law- rence, and thence to the sea. Its en- tire length, including the great chain of lakes by which it is fed, is not less than 2,200 miles. Ships of the largest size as- cend the river as far as Montreal. Its chief affluents are the Saguenay, east- ward, and the Ottawa on the west. The width of the St. Lawrence varies from about a mile to four miles ; at its mouth it is 100 miles across. It abounds in beautiful islands, of which there is a vast group, near its egress from Lake Ontario, known and admired by all the world as the "Thousand Isles." I'lac "TStoiascisad. Isles. — It is always a curious speculation to the voy- ager how his steamer is to find its way through the labyrinth of the Thousand Islands, which stud the broad waters like the countless tents of an encamped army, and ever and anon his interest is aroused to the highest pitch at the prospective danger of the passage of some angry rapid. All the journey east, from lake to lake of the great waters, past islands now miles in circuit, and now large enough only for the cottage of Liliputian lovers, is replete with ever-changing pleasure. ILia,c]iiiie. — From Montreal the traveller will proceed 9 miles to Lachine by railway, avoiding the rapids which the steamers sometimes descend. The latter 440 is termed "shooting the rapids;" and "it is one of the sublime experiences which can never be forgotten, and nevei adequately described. It is in the high- e=«t degree creditable to all connected with this branch of Canadian river navi- gation, that no accident of any conse- quence has ever happened, nor has a single life been lost in this beautiful but dangerous spot." "And we liave passed the terrible Lacliine, Have felt a fearless tremor through the soul, As the huge waves npreared their crests of green, Holding our feathery- bark in their control, Asa strong eagle holds an oi-iole. The brain gi-ows dizzy with the whirl and hiss Of the fast-croW'ding billows as they roll, Like struggling demons to the vexed abyss, Lashing the tortured crags with wild, demoniac bliss." Two miles above Lachine, on the Isle Dorval, was formerly the residence of Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hud-' son's Bay Company, and of the officers of this, the chief post of that corporation. It was from this point that the orders from headquarters in London were sent to the numerous posts throughout the vast territory of the company ; and near the end of April each year a body of trained voyageurs set out hence in large canoes, called maitres canofy, with packages and goods for the various posts in the wilder- ness. Two centuries ago, the companions of the explorer Carticr, on arriving here, thought they had discovered a route to China, and expressed their joy in the exclamation of " La Chine! " Hence the present name, or so at least says tradi- tion. A costly canal overcomes the ob- struction of the rapids at Lachine. Tlie Villag'e oftlae l£apids;° ©1*, CaMgliMa'wag'a. — An Iro- quois settlement lies opposite Lachine, at the outlet of the expansion of the river called Lake St. Louis. The Indians at Caughnawaga subsist chiefly by naviga- ting barges and rafts down to Montreal, and in winter, by a trade in moccasins, < snow-shoes, etc. They are mostly Ro-; man Catholics, and possess an elegant: church. lialce St. HiOiiis. — ^The brown.' floods of the Ottawa assist in forming this i great expanse of the St. Lawrence. They roll unmixed through the clearer water of the great river. On the northern shore of Lake St. Louis is the island of Mon- Ottawa City.] CANADA. [RiDEAU Falls. treal, 30 miles long. At the western Extremity is Isle Perrot. The Cascade Rapids separate the expanse just passed from Lake St. Francis. The Beauharnois Canal here is 11 J miles in length, and has 9 locks. Sjake St. Francis, into which the voyager now enters, extends 40 miles. [Midway on the right is the village of jLancaster, where a pile of stones or cairn lias been thrown up in honor of Sir John polborue, formei'ly Governor-General of Canada, now Lord Seaton. Leaving PLake St. Francis, we pass the passage of the celebrated Long Saidt rapids. Here, too, is the Cornwall Canal, 11-J^ miles in ^ength, with 1 locks of noble size. Cornwall is a pleasant town, for- merly called "PoiuteMaline," in memento of the labor of ascending the river at this point. 'Fl»e Village of St, Kegis es across from Cornwall. It forms the oundary between Canada and the State if New York, and also intersects the ract of land occupied by the 1,000 roquois, American and British, who well here. l>iolicns©n ' l^antlimg is at the lead of the Cornwall Canal ; within the pace of the 38 miles which follow to Prcscott, the villages of Moulinette, Maria Town, and Matilda, are successive- ly passed. Xlac Battlc-Fielil of Cfery» scler's Farm^ where the Americans aiet a defeat in the war of 1812, lies a little above Maria Town. Prescott is rapidly recovering its irestige, lost whcii the construction of the Rideau Canal won its trade away to Kingston ; for now a railway from New York approaches it at Ogdensburg, and mother connects it with Ottawa City, on the Ottawa Eiver. Besides which ad- ^'antages, it is on the line of the Grand \lrunk route. From Pi-escott may be ^ccn the windmill and the ruined houses, pcmentoes of the attempt at invasion by Bchultz and his band pi 1838. We shall now take a trip, on the Ottawa and Prcs- cott Pailwa)/, to Ottawa, Ottawa, the capital of Canada, stands on the river of tlie same name, 54 aoiles distant from Prescott, and 126 from Montreal. This prosperous little city. which was originally called Bytown, in honor of Colonel By, of the Royal Engin- eers, under whose command it was laid out in 1823, is divided into Lower Town, Cen- tral Town, and Upper Town. On Barrack Hill, in many respects a counterpart of the citadel of Quebec, are situated the Parliament and departmental buildings. These are all in the Italian-Gothic style, and are built of a kind of stone found in the vicinity. There is connected with the legislative halls a library capable of containing 300,000 volumes. Among the other principal public edifices may be men- tioned the Roman Catholic Church, one of the handsomest in Canada ; the Queen's Printing-House, and numerous other build- ings contributing to the stable appear- ance of the city. Ottawa is connected with Lake Ontario by the Rideau Canal, the entrance being at Kingston, 95 miles distant. It is the emporium of the Cana- dian staple, lumber. 'Flae l£i«lean Falls, near the mouth of the Rideau, just below the city of Ottawa, is a charming scene. A mile lower it i"eceives, from the north, its greatest tributary, the Gatineau, which, with a course probably of 420 miles, drains an area of 12,000 square miles. For about 200 miles the upper course of this river is in the unknown northern couiitr)'. At the farthest point surveyed, 217 miles from its mouth, the Gatineau is still a noble stream, a thousand feet wide, diminished in depth but not in width. Eighteen miles lower down, the Riviere au Lievre enters from the north, after running a course of 260 miles in length, and draining an area of 4,100 miles. Fifteen miles below it, the Ottawa receives the North and South Nation Rivers on either side, the former 93 and the latter 100 miles in length. Twen- ty-two miles farther, the River Rouge, 90 miles long, enters from the north. Tw(;nty-one miles lower, the Riviere dti Nord, 160 miles in length, comes in on the same side ; and, lastly, just above its mouth, it receives the River Assump- tion, which has a course of 130 miles. From Ottawa the river is navigable to Grenville, a distance of 58 miles, where the rapids that occur for 12 miles are avoided by a succession of canals. Twen- ty-tliree miles lower, at one of the mouths 441 Kingston.] CANADA. [Oswego. of tlie Ottawa, a single lock, to avoid a flight rapid, gives a passage into Lake St. Louis, ail expansion of the St. Lawrence above Montreal. The remaining half of the Ottawa's waters find their way to the St. Lawrence by passing in two channels, behind the Island of Montreal and the Isle of Jesus, in a course of SI miles. They are interrupted with rapids ; still it is by one of them that all the Ottawa lumber passes to market. At Bout de risle, therefore, the Ottawa is finally merged in the St. Lawrence, 130 miles below, from the city of Ottawa. KOCTES FROM MONTREAL UP THE OtTAWA. — Steamers run daily, during the summer months, betw^een Montreal and Ottawa, and Kingston and Ottawa, via the Rideau Canal. Above Ottawa the traveller may proceed, by carriage or by stage, nine miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thence by steamer to the Chats ; thence by rail- way, two miles ; then again by steamer to the Portage du Fort ; now, wagons for a while, and then again a steamer to Pem- broke, and yet another from thence to Deux Joachims ; aftenvard he must canoe it. The Ottavfa may also be reached by railway direct, from Prescott on the St. Lawrence to Ottawa City. Og'4leEisl5ia.a'g-, New York, the western terminus of the Northern Rail- way from Lake Champlain, is opposite Prescott. Maitlaml, built upon the site of an old French fort, is seven miles above Prescott. lSa°ocl£Tille is yet 5 miles more, westward. It is one of the best-built towns in Canada West. ®amgfiEa©«jiae is 32 miles above Brockville. At Kingston, 20 miles yet beyond Gananoque, we leave the St. Law- rence, and approach the waters of Lake Ontario. In descending the river, the wonderful labyrinth of the Thousand Isles is passed just east of Kingston. Wolfe's Inland, a well-cultivated spot, is oppos'ite Kingston. Miifig-stOBi. — Hotels, Kenfs Brit- ish American, Irenes Hotel. The city of Kingston, the original capi- tal of Canada, modern as it appears, looks far back for its history, as its ad- vantageous loceile did not fail to attract the notice of the early French discoverers. 442 It was once occupied as a small fort called Cafaraqui, otherwise known a.s Frontcnac, in honor of the French count of that name, and was the scene of va- rious sieges and exploits before it passed, with all the territory of the Canadas, from French to British rule. It was from this point that murdei'ous expeditions were made by the Indians in the olden times against Albany and other English settlements of New York ; which in turn sent back here its retributive blows. The present city was founded in 1783. It has now a population of about 16,000. As a military station, it is only second to Quebec. Among its objects of inter- est are the fortifications of JFort Henry, on a hill upon the eastern side of the harbor; four fine Martello Towers off the town; and other defensive works; the UniversHy of Qiieeri's College; the Homan Catholic College of JRegiopolis, and the Provincial Penitentiary, a mile to the west of the city. As the navigation of the St. Lawrence ends at Kingston, the river boats are ex- changed here for others more suited to the lake vo)"ages. Ka a Ic e O aa t a, 1* i ©. — American Shore. — Let us, before we enter the great waters of Ontario, say a word to the traveller who may prefer to make the voyage along the American or lower shore of the lake. Fi'om the boundary line 45° the entire littoral is in the State of New York. ff'feiacli Crceli comes into the St. Lawrence as we leave it. It was liere that General Wilkinson embarked (No- vembei-, 1813), with 7,000 men, v,'ith the purpose of descending the river and at- tacking Montreal. A week subsequently, an engagement took place near Williams- burg, on the Canadian side, when the Americans came off but jjoorly. General Wilkinson being disappointecl in his ex- pectation of reenforcements from Platts- burg, retired to French Mills, and there went into winter quarters. This place was afterward named Fort Covington, in memory of General Covington, who fell at the battle of AVilliamsburg. Sacliett's Mai-l>©r, (N. Y.)— (See New York State.) Os"weg-©. — Hotel, TJie American. — Oswego (N. Y.) is the chief commercial i [Toronto.] CANADA. [Hamilton. port of the American shore of Ontario. It is very agreeably situated at the mouth of the Oswego River. The Oswego Canal comes in here (38 miles) from Syracuse, and the railway, also from the same place. CBaarlotte^ the port of the city of Kochester (N. T.), is at the approach to Lake Ontario, of the beautiful Genesee lliver. — (See New York State.) From the mouth of the Genesee to Fort Niagara, a distance of 85 miles, the coast now" presents a monotonous and forest- covered level, with clearing only here and there. Having now peeped at the American, or southern shore, we will go back to Kingston, and start again on the upper side of the lake, making first for Toronto, 165 miles distant ; from Montreal, 333 miles. Col>iM*g', with a population of about 5,000, is YO miles from Toronto, and 90 miles from Kingston. It has many and varied manufactories ; and owing to its comparative proximity to Rochester, it ranks only second to Toronto and Hamil- ton in point of general business. A rail- way from Peterboro' (30 miles distant) comes in here. In the vicinage is the Victoria College, founded by act of the Provincial Legislature in 1842, and at- tended by 150 students. There is a jail here, a strong, massive, and imposing structure. S^ojrt Hope is seven miles above Coburg. From this point, or from Co- burg, the journey to Kingston is often I charmingly made overland, through a beautiful country at the head of the Bay of Quinie, a singular arm of the St. Lawrence. Tor onto, — Hotel, LamUs. To- ronto is the largest and most populous city in Canada West. Some eighty years ago the site of the present busy mart was i occupied by two Indian families only. I In 1*793, Governor Simcoe began the set- jtlement under the name of York, changed, iwhen it was incorporated, in 1834, to S Toronto — meaning, in the Indian tongue, i " The place of meeting." One of the [principal thoroughfares, Yonge Street, i extends, through a flourishing agricultural [district, to the rare length (for a street) 'of 36 miles. The population, in 1817, numbered only 1,200; in 1850, it had reached 25,000 ; and now, it is upward of 60,000. Among the public buildings of Toronto the traveller will perhaps please himself with a peep at the Catholic Church of St Michael, the St. James's Cathedral (Eng- lish), the Univei'sity of Toronto, the St. Lawrence Hall and Market, the Parlia- ment House, Osgoode Hall, the Post- OflSce, the Court-House, the Exchange, the Mechanics' Institute, Knox's Church, Trinity College, Upper Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Jail, and the Normal and Model Schools. At Toronto, the traveller may, if he pleases, reach Niagara direct, without touching at Hamil- ton, as we propose to do in our present journey. filsaiiiilt, ©IB. — Hotels, Anglo- Ameriean and the City Hotel. Hamilton is among the most beautiful and most prosperous cities of Canada. Many advantages promise it a brave future. From its zeal and eagerness it has been named the " ambitious little city." Its streets are wide and well-laid out, and its buildings are in general ele- gant ; they are built for the most part of white stone, an ample supply of which is found near the city. The Post-Office is on James Street ; and the p)rincipal banks and business houses are situated on that street and King Street. It was laid out and settled in 1813, by a person of the name of Hamilton; it is situated on Burlington Bay, at the head of the western extremity of Lake Ontario, con- nected with the Eastern capitals of the United States, and with Quebec, Montreal, and Toronto by the Grand Trunk and the Hamilton and Toronto Railicays ; and with Lake Huron and the Mississippi States by the Great Western Railviay, which traverses the garden lands of Canada; and, via the Suspension Bridge at Kiagara, with the whole railway system of New York. The distance from To- ronto to Hamilton, by the steamer is 45 miles — time, two and a half hours; by i-ailway, 38 miles — time (express), 1 hour 24 minutes. The population of Hamilton, in 1845, was 6,500 ; at this time it ex- ceeds 25,000. From. Ha,n3Lilton to tlie Fa-lls. — Distance, by the Great Wist- 443 Lake Region.] CANADA. [Lake Region cm Railway, from Ilomilton to the Sus- pension Bridge, 43 miles — time, 1 hour, 35 minutes. Stations, Ontario, Grimsby, Beanisville, Jordan, St. Catharine's, Tho- rold, Niafjarii Falls. Si. Catliai-iiae's is the chief point of interest on this part of our route. Its pleasant topography, and, more par- tieularly, its mineral springs, make it a place of great summer resort. Here we leave the reader to establish himself at Niagara, and to see all its marvels, having elsewhere pointed out where he should go, and what should be his itineraire while there. (See Niagara Falls, New York.) TirE LAKE REGION. A delightful tour of a few weeks may be made, in the heat of the summer, among the natural wonders of the region of the Great Lakes, to Mackinac, the Sault Ste. Marie, and the shores of Lake Superior, returning, perhaps, by some one of the lower routes to the Atlantic, from the head-waters of the Mississipp.i. Routes. — The leading route through Canada is from Toronto, which may be easily and speedily reached by routes al- ready described. From New York, by the Hudson River and Lake Champlaiu to Montreal, and thence by the Grand Trmik Railway ; or by the Central Road from Albany to Buffalo, and by Niagara ; or, by Niagara, via the NeioYork and, Erie Rail- way ; or, from Portland or Boston, by railroad to Montreal, etc. By steamboat daily, from Buffxilo, or from Chicago, etc., to Mackinac (or Mackinaw, as the word is pronounced). At Toronto, the traveller will take the Collingwood route, by the Ontario, Sim- coe, and Hur Region, the tourist can return by steame either to Collingwood, Goderich, or Sarnie thence by rail to Toronto, and from thi latter city by steamer down Lake Outarii and the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. aTTEBEC. Hotels. — The leading hotels are tlf St. Louis and RiisscWs; they are tlr largest and most central and are moderat in their terms. Quebec may be pleasantly reache from New York, via Boston to Portlant Maine, and thence 3 17 miles by th Grand Trimk Railivay, total distance, b' this route, from New York to Quebec 650 miles; or from New York by th! Hudson River Railvjay or steamboats ; x by the Harlem Railway to Albany, them to Whitehall, thence on Lake Champlaii to Plattsburg, thence by the Ilontrei and New York Railway to Montreal, an from Montreal by steamer down the S' Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk liav way. Distance by railway, from Montrn al to Quebec, 1(58 miles. There are othd railway routes from Boston to Quebec via Albany, or by the Vermont Centrt and Vermont and Canada lines throug St. Albans to Montreal. Quebec is the oldest, and, after Mot treal, the most populous city in Britis North America. It is upon the left bam of the St. Lawrence river, and some 34 miles from the ocean. The city^\'as founded in 1608, by thi geographer Champlain. It fell into th' possession of the British in 1629, bi was restored three years later. Th English made an unsuccessful attempt t regain possession of it in 1690. It wa QlTKBEC] CANADA. [VlCINITT, finally captured by Wolfe, in 1759, after an heroic defence by Montcalm. The city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town ; the ascent from the latter being by a very steep and winding street, through Prescott Gate. The Upper Town occupies the highest part of the promon- tory, which is surrounded by strong walls and other fortifications ; while the Lower Town is built around the base of Cape Diamond. The latter is the business quarter. Tlie Ciladel, a massive defence crown- ing the summit of Cape Diamond (thus named from the circumstance of quartz crystals, spai-kling hke diamonds, being found in the dark-colored slate of which the cape is composed), covers about 40 acres with its numerous buildings. Its impregaable position makes it perhaps the strongest fortress on this continent ; and the name of the " Gibraltar of America " has been often not given to it inaptly. The- access to the Citadel is from the Upper Town, the walls of which are entered by five gates. Near the Palace gate is the Hospital and a large Guard-House. By St. Louis gate, on the southwest, the tourist will reach the memorable Plains of Abraham, the scene of Wolfe's victory and death, in the year 1Y59. The Prescott Gate is the only entrance on the St. Lawrence side of the fortress. The view from the Citadel is remarka- bly tine, taking in, as it does, the oppo- site banks of the great river through many picturesque miles up and down. The promenade here, on the ramjjarts above the esplanade, js charming. In the public garden, on Des Carrieres street, there is an obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. At the foot of the Citadel stands a tower, over which now floats the British flag, on the spot where Montgomery and his soldiers all fell, swept by the grape-shot of a single gun manned by a Canadian artillerist. The ParUament House. — Among the chief pubhc edifices of Quebec is the New Parliament Holise, which supplies the place of the building destroyed by fire in 1854. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was erected under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, and was consecrated in 1666. It is 216 feet long, and 180 feet in breadth. There is in the Lower Town a chapel noticeable for its anti- quity ; it was built and used as a church before 1690. It is called Notre Dame des Victoires. The Ursuline Convent and the Church of St. Ursula are striking buildings, encompassed by pleasant gardens. This establishment was founded in 1639, and holds a high position in the public esteem. It accommodates a superior, 50 nuns, and 6 novices, who give instruction in reading, writing, and needlework. The building was destroyed by fire in 1 650, and again in 1686. The remains of the Marquis de Montcalm are buried here in an excava- tion made by the bursting of a shell within the precincts of the convent. The Artillery Barracks form a range of stone buildings 5,000 feet in length. Durham Terrace is tlie site of the old castle of St. Louis, which was entire- ly consumed by fire in 1834. The English Protestant Cathedral, con- secrated in 1804, is one of the finest modern edifices of the city. Tradition points to its site as the spot upon which Cham plain erected his first tent. St. Andreui's Church, in St. Anne Street, is in connection with the Scotch Establishment. The Methodists have a chapel in St. Stanislaus Street, and another in St Louis suburb, called the Centenary Chapel. Hie Lower Town. — It is in this por- tion of the city that the traveller will find the Exchange, the Post-Office, the banks, and other commercial establish- ments. Xlie ff»laiMS of Al>ral£aiu: may be reached via the St. Louis Gate, and the countei'scarp on the left, leading to the glacis of the citadel hence tow- ard the right ; approaching one of the Martello Towers, where a fine view of the St. Lawrence opens. A little be- yond, up the right bank, is the spot where General Wolfe fell on the famous historic ground of the Plains of Abra- ham. It is the highest ground, and is surrounded by wooden fences. Here stands the St. Foye monument, erected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. It is of bronzed metal, standing on a stone base, and surmounted by a bronze 447 ' MONTMORENCI.] CANADA. [Chacdierk. statue of Bellona. On the pedestal are simple and appropriate inscriptions. Wiiliin an enclosure lower down is a stone well, from which water was broup;ht to the d_ying hero.. "WoSle's Cove, the spot where Montgomery was killed, and other scenes, telling tales of the memorable past, will be pointed out to the traveller in this neighborhood. 'JETIae Moiiut llermon Ceme- tery is about 3 miles from the city, on the south side of the St. Louis road. The grounds are 82 acres in extent, sloping irregularly but beautifully down the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence. They were laid out by the late Major Douglas, of the United States Engineers, who had previously displayed his skill and taste in the arrangements of the Greenwood Cemetery, near New York. liOrettc. — To see Lorette may be made the object of an agreeable excur- sion from Quebec, following the banks of the St. Charles River. ILialce §4. Cliavles is 4 miles long and one broad. It is divided by projecting ledges into two parts. It is a delightful spot in its natui-al attractions, and in the fine sport it affords to the angler. Tlae Falls of Moiitmoremci. Nine miles below Quebec, the impetuous Montmorenci (so called after a French admiral of that name), after ' fretting itself a whirlpool route, and leaping for miles down the steps of a rocky bed, rushes with velocity toward the ledge, over which it falls pouring its fleecy cata- ract 250 feet into the chasm below. The foam rising from the foot of the falls be- comes frozen in winter, and the ice accu- mulating, layer upon layer, forms two cones, one of which not unfrequently attains the height of 100 feet, offering to those who are courageous enough to ascend to its apex, a full fnmt view of the edge of the precipice, and the still sui'face of the Montmorenci River sleeping in its icy bed. The second cone is much used for " toboggining." Experts in this exclu- sively Canadian amusement climb to the top of the cone ; and then, perching themselves on their " toboggins " (a sort of light Indian sleigh), dash down the glassy 448 slope with a velocity which, increasing every instant, occasionally carries the hardy tobogginers a full half mile from the pinnacle whence they started. Before quitting the picturesque banks of the Montmorenci, the tourist should by all means visit tlie Natural Stcjys, 2 miles above the cataract. The Umestone rock bordering the river is there formed for half a mile, into a succession of steps, each about a foot in depth, as regularly arranged as if they had been hewn out by human hands. The "Mansion House," in which the Duke of Kent passed the summer of 1791, stands at a short dis- tance from the falls. Tlie Falls of St. Anne, in the river St. Anne, 24 miles below Quebec, are in the neighborhood of great pictur- esque beauty. Starting from the city in the morning betimes, one may visit Mont- morenci, and proceed thence with ease the same evening to St. Anne. Next morning after a leisurely survey of these cascades, there will be most of the day left to get back, with any detours that may seem desirable, to Quebec. Tlae l^'alls of tlie Cliaudiere are reached via Point Levi. The rapid i-iver plunges over a precipice of 130 feet, presenting very much the look of boiling water, whence its name of chaudiere, cr caldron. The cataract is broken into three separate parts by the intervention of huge projecting rocks, but it is re- united before it reaches the basin beneath. We now take oi;r leave of Quebec with its unique natural beauties, and its win- ning stories, with the remembrance of some of the impressions it made upon Professor Silliman, when he visited it years ago : " Quebec," he writes, " at least for an American city, is certainly a very" peculiar place. A military town — containing about 20,000 inhabitants — most compactly and permanently built — environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates, and defended by numei-ous heavy cannon — gari-isoned by ' troops having the arms, the costume, the music, the discipline of Europe — foreign in language, features, and origin, from most of those whom they are sent to de- fend — founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country — between 300 and 400 miles The Sacuejsiay.] CANADA. [The Saguenay. from the ocean, iu the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded seaport — its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down al- most mountainous declivities — situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia — governed by a people of different language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the full enjoyment of every privi- lege, civil and religious." Tliere are pleasant drives to Spencer Wood, the Governor-General's residence, and to Chdiemi-Bigot, an antique and massive ruin, standing in solitary loneli- ness, at the foot of the Charlesbourg Mountain. When iu Quebec the tourist should by all means take a run down to the Sague- nay River, which magnificent trip can be performed by taking the railway at Point Levi for Eivi^re du Loup, and there crossing by steamer ; or, during the sum- mer months he can take the steamer from Quebec direct to the Saguenay. Xlie Sagneiaay is the largest tributary of the St. Lawrence, and un- questionably one of the most remarkable rivers on the continent. Its head-water is Lake St. John, 40 miles long, which, although 11 large rivers fall into it, has no other outlet tlian the Saguenay. The original name of this river was Ohicouiimi, an Indian word signifying deep water ; and its present one is said to be a cor- ruption of ISaint-Jean Nez. The first place of interest to point out to the traveller is Tadoussac^ lying a short distance above Pointe aux Vaches, 140 miles from Quebec. Tadoussac, apart from its pleas- ant situation as a watering-place, is in- teresting from the circumstance of having been tlie spot on which stood the first stone-and-mortar building ever erected on the continent of America. The scenery here is wild and romantic in the extreme ; and the waters all round abound in ex- cellent salmon and trout. Just iu the rear of Tadoussac, and at the Bergeronnes, and on the opposite side of the Saguenay among the Canard Lakes, and at the Little Saguenay, St. John, Grand Bay, and Chicoutimi, Kenogami, and other lakes, the trout are only too plenty, very large and glad to be caught. Seal-hunt- ing is also a favorite sport for those who resort to these shores ; several varieties of the animal are here met with in abun- dance. The journey up the Saguenay may be made semi-weekly by steamer from Quebec, or by the Grand Tnmk Railway, 101 miles to St. Paschal, Riviere du Loup, opposite the mouth of the Saguenay, and thence by steamer. The course of the Saguenay — between lofty and precipitous heights, and, in its upper part, amid rush- ing cataracts — is 126 miles from Lake St. John to the St. Lawrence, which it enters 140 miles below Quebec. Large ships as- cend 60 miles. In the trip from Quebec to the Saguenay beauties, there are many in- teresting points to be noticed in the pre- ceding journey of 120 miles down the St. Lawrence — the ancient-looking settle- ments on its banks, and the not less picturesque habitants of the countiy. A day's sail lands the voyager at Riviere du Loup, where he passes the night on board his steamer, waiting for the following morning to resume his journey. The Saguenay is a perfectly straight river, with grand precipices on either side. It has neither windings nor projecting bluffs, nor sloping banks, nor winding shores, like other rivers, nor is its stern, strange aspect varied by either village or villa. " It is," says a voyager thither, " as if the mountain range had been cleft asun- der, leaving a horrid gulf of 60 miles in length and 4,000 feet in depth, through the gray mica schist, and still looking fresh and new. One thousand five hun- dred feet of this is perpendicular' cliff, often too steep and solid for the hemlock or dwarf-oak to find root ; in which case, being covered with colored lichens and moss, their fresh-looking fractures often appear, in shape and color, like painted fans, and are called the pictured rocks. But those parts more slanting are thickly covered with stunted trees, spruce and maple and birch growing wherever they can find crevices to extract nourishment; and the bare roots of the oak, grasping 449 TiiR Saguenay.] CANADA. [The Saguenay. the rock, have a resemblance to gigantic claws. The bases of these clifl's lie flir under the water, to an unknown depth. For many miles from its mouth no sound- ings have been obtained with 2,000 feet of line; and for the entire distance of 60 miles, until you reach Ha-ha Bay, the largest ships can sail, without obstruction from banks or shoals, and, on reaching the extremity of the bay, can drop their anchors in 30 fathoms. The view up this river is singular in many respects ; hour after hour, as you sail along, preci- pice after precipice unfolds itself to view, as a moving panorama ; and you some- times forget the size and height of the objects you are contemplating, until re- minded by seeing a ship of 1,000 tons lying like a small pinnace under the towering cliff to which she is moored ; for even in these remote and desolate regions, industry is at work, and, although you camiot clearly discern them, saw-mills liave been built on some of the tributary streams which fall into the Saguenay. But what strikes one most is the absence of beach or strand, except in a few places where mountain torrents, rushing through gloomy ravines, have washed down the detritus of the hills, and formed some alluvial land at the mouth, no coves, nor creeks, nor •projecting rocks are seen in which a boat could find shelter, or any footing be obtained . The characteristic is a steep wall of rock rising abruptly from the water ; a dark and desolate region, where all is cold and gloomy; the mountains hidden with driving mist, the water black as ink, and cold as ice. No ducks nor sea-gulls sitting on the water, or scream- ing for their prey. No hawks nor eagles soaring overhead, although there is an abundance of what might be called ' eagle clifis.' No deer coming down to drink at the streams, no squirrels nor birds to be seen among the trees. No fly on the water, nor swallows skimming over the surface. It reminds you of ' That lake wliose gloomy shore Skylark never warbled o'er.' ' Two living things you may see, but these are cold-blooded animals ; you may see the cold seal, spreading himself upon his clammy rock, watching for his prey. You may see him make his suUen plunge into 450 the water, like to the Styx for blackness. You may see him emerge again, shaking his smooth oily sides, and holding a huge living salmon writhing in his teeth ; and you may envy the fellow faring so sump- tuously, tmtil you recollect that you have just had a hearty breakfast of fict^h- grilled salmon yourself, and that you enjoyed it as much as the seal is now enjoying his raw morsel. And this is all you see for the first twenty miles, save the ancient settlement of Tadoussac at the entrance, and the pretty cove of L'Ance k I'Eau, Avhich is a fishing station. Now you reach Cape Eternity, Cape Trinity, and many other overhanging cliffs, remarkable for having such clean fractures, seldom equalled for boldness and effect, which create constant apprehensions of danger, even in a calm ; but if you happen to be caught in a thun- der-storm, the roar, and darkness, and flashes of lightning are perfectly frightful. At last you terminate your voyage at Ha-ha Bay — that is, Smiling or Laughing Bay, in the Indian tongue — for you are perfectly charmed and relieved to arrive at a beautiful spot, where you have sloping banks, a pebbly shore, boats and wherries, and vessels riding at anchor; birds and animals, a village, a church, French Canadians, and Scottish Highland- ers." After duly enjoying the pleasant "let down" from the high tragic tone of the landscape you have been so long gazing upon and wondering at, formed in the comparatively pastoral character of this upper region of the Ottawa, you re- turn to your steamer, and, descending the stern and solemn river, come again, at nightfall, to the Kiviere du Loup, from whence you started in the morning. This is the second day of your journey, and on the third you are l)ack once more in Quebec. After leaving these delightful scenes, and returning to Quebec, those who choose so to do, can set out for home either by rail, via Eichmond, Portland, Boston, and New York ; or via Richmond by rail to Sherbroke, thence by coaches to Magog, connecting with steamer for New- port (See Lake Mempheemagog), thence by Passumpsic Raihoay to White and Franconia Mountams, Boston, or New York. RODTES.] CANADA. [Routes. But some may prefer still to make the deliglitful and invigorating trip down the Gulf to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, visiting numberless other points of inter- est on the way, and returning homeward by the International Steamshij) Line to Portland or Boston, and thence by rail or steamer to New York. The best plan is to take cither the steamers to Perce^ and coast along as' opportunity offers ; or take passage on one of the Gulf steamers for Gaspe, Shediac, and Pictou. 451 St. Joun River. I NEW BRUNSWICK. [Fisr'uiEs NEW BEU]^SWICK, New Brunswick, a Province of Great Britain, lies upon tlie eastern boundary of the State of Maine. Ttie landscape is of great variety and of most picturesque beauty; the whole Province (exceptiug the dozen miles lying directly on the sea) being broken into attractive valleys and hiUs, which northward assume a very marked and sometimes a very rugged aspect. Much of its area of 230 miles in length, and 130 in breadth, is covered with magnificent forests, which, as in the neighboring State of Maine, constitute its chief source of industry and wealth. The hills are nowhere of a very wonder- ful height, but they often rise in precip- itous and sharp acclivities, which give them an almost Alpine aspect ; all the more striking in contrast with the peace- ful plains and vales which they protect from the tempests of the sea. Like the neighboring Province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick so abounds in lakes and rivers, that ready water access may be had, with the help of a short portage now and then, over its entire area. Thus a canoe may easily be floated from the interior to the Bay de Chaleur, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the ocean on the north, or to the St. John River, and thence to the Bay of Fundy on the south. Tlae §t. .Folua H-iver is the largest in New Brunswick, and one of the most remarkable and beautiful in Amer- ica. It rises in the highlands which separate Manie from Canada, not very far from the sources of the Connecticut. For 150 miles it flows in a northeast direction, to the junction of the St. Francis. From the mouth of the St. Francis, the course of the St. John is 452 irregularly east-southeast to the Grauc Falls ; at which point it makes a desceui of from '70 to 80 feet, presenting a splen; did picture for the gratification of thd tourist. The leap of the Grand Falls i passed, the river makes its way almosi southward for some distance, after whicl it turns abruptly to the eastward, and s( continues its way for 100 miles, passing Fredericton, to the outlet of the Granc Lake, in the southern central part of the Province. From Grand Lake its passage is in a wide channel, due south to Kings- ton, and thence southwest to St. John, at its mouth in St. John Harbor, on the> Bay of Fundy. The entire lengthy of this beautiful river is about 600 miles, and from thei Grand Falls to the sea, 225 miles, itsi course is within the British territory. The river and its affluents are thought to afford 1,300 miles of navigable waters. Very much of the shores of the St. Johnn is wild forest-land. In some parts, thei' banks rise in grand rocky hills, fcirmingii in their lines and interlacings pictures^ of wonderful delight. The chief tributaries of the St. John, besides the St. Francis and other waters- already mentioned, are the Aroostook, thelij Oromocto, and the Eel, on the west ; andil the Salmon, the Nashwaak, the Tobic(ue,/i the Kennebecasis, and the Washedemoak,y on the east. ' ]'. The coast, and bays, and lakes, anmj rivers of New Brunswick abound witffi fish of almost every variety and in im-i mense suppUes. The fisheries of the Bay^^j of Fundy are of great value, and employ >; vast numbers of the population. In the harbor of St. John alone there have been, at one time, 200 boats with 500 men^ Si'. John.] NEW BRUNSWIGK. [Fredericton. i taking salmon, shad, and other fish. Nearly 600 fishermen have been seen at one period at the Island of Grand Manan ; while at the West Isles, about 700 men have been thus employed at one moment ; and so on at many of the other countless fishing grounds and sta- tions of the New Brunswick and the Nova Scotia coasts. The climate here is healthful, but sub- ject to great extremes of heat and cold,; the mercury rising sometimes to 100° in the day-time, and faUing to 60° at night. Internal Communication. — Besides the steamers and stages which connect the various towns and cities of New Bruns- wick and Nova Scotia, lines of railway are in active progress, which will unite the two Provinces, and both to the Cana- das and the States. A portion of the European and North American Railway was opened (August 1, 1860) from St. John to Shediac, 106 miles ; from whence steamers connect with Charlottetown, P. E. Island ; Pictou, N. S. ; the northern poris of New Brunswick, and Quebec. This line opens up new and pleasant groimd to the tourist. Another road is to extend from St. Andrews to Wood- stock, and thence to Quebec. The mag- netic telegraph already connects New Brunswiclc, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward's Island with the States. The connection between Nova Scotia and Prince Edward's Island is by a subma- rine cable, nine miles from Cape Tormen- tine to Cape Traverse. St. JoIi.It. — Hotel, Waverley Hoitse. RoDTES. — From Boston, Mass., every Monday and Thursday, at 9 a. m., by steamer. From Halifax, via W^indsor, N. S., 45 miles by rail, and thence by steamer, 110 miles, to St. John. St. John, at the mouth of the St. John River, is the principal city of New Bruns- >vick, with a population of over 30,000. It is superbly situated upon a bold, rocky jpeninsula, and is seen very imposingly from the sea. The scenery of the St. 'John River is very striking, in the pas- |sage immediately preceding its entrance >into the harbor, and a mile and a half above the city. It makes its impetuous way here in a chain of grand rapids, through rugged gaps, 240 feet wide and 1,200 feet long. The passage is navi- gable only during the very brief time of high and equal tides in the harbor and the river ; for at low water the river is about 12 feet higher than the harbor, while at high water the harbor is five feet above the river. It is thus only, when the waters of the harbor and of the river are on a level, that vessels can pass ; and this occurs only during a space of from fifteen to twenty minutes, at each ebb and flow of the tide. Immense quantities of timber are rafted down from the forests of the river above to St. John. It is the entrepot also of the agricultural and min- eral products of a wide region of country. S'l-ed.erictoii. — Hotel, Barker House. Routes. — From Boston, via St. John. Fredericton, the capital of New Bruns- wick, stands upon a flat tongue of land, in a bend of the St. John River, 80 miles from its mouth. This sandy plain is about three miles long, sometimes reach- ing a breadth of half a mile. The river, which is navigable up to this point, is here three-quarters of a mile wide. Small steamers ascend 60 miles yet above to Woodstock, and sometimes to the foot of the Great Falls. The view, both up and down the valley, is most interesting — to the north an uncleared range of highlands, with detached cones and broken hills thrown out in bold relief upon the landscape. Villas enclosed in the woods, and farms upon the clearings, are the chief objects it presents ; while to the south the river is seen winding, like a silver cord, through the dark woodlands, until it disappears among the islands in the distance. St. AndreTVS, with a population of about 8,000, is at the northeast ex- tremity of Passamaquoddy Bay, three miles from the shores of the United States, near Eastport, in Maine, and 60 mile? from St. John. A railway will connect St. Andrews with Woodstock, 80 miles distant, and wiU be continued to Canada. 453 Nova Scotia.] NOVA SCOTIA. [Rivers and Lake.=! KOYA SCOTIA. NoTA Scotia, the ancient Acadia, in- cluding the Island of Cape Breton and Sable Island, lies southeast of New Bruns- w'vik, from which it is separated by the Bay of Fundy, except only at the narrow isthmus of Chignecto. ' It may be reached at Halifax, its capital, by the British steamers from New York and Boston. The railways now in progress within its limits will soon more conveniently unite it with the cities of the Canadas and the United States. The area of the Province is 18,746 square miles, including the 3,000 of Cape Breton, and the 69 of Sable Island. The southern shores are often very rugged. The interior is di- versified with hills and valleys, though not of very bold character, as the highest land is but 1,200 feet above the sea. The numerous lakes cover much of the southern part of the Province. The agri- cultural capabilities vary much for the area of the country. On the Atlantic coast much of the soil is rocky and barren. The richest soils are in that section of the country bordering upon the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the streams emptying into them ; and, generally speaking, this is the most thickly-settled region. Nova Scotia has become so much denuded of its valuable timber, that its lumber trade is now neither very large nor productive, compared with that of Nevi^ Brunswick or Canada. Farming, however, especially in the finer agricultural districts just named, is extensively carried on, and is very re- munerative. The extensive mineral deposits of coal, iron, and copper, have become,- of late years, an object of great and constantly increasing attention to the inhabitants; 454 the gypsum, grindstones, and buildingn stone of various kinds, have long been im-i portant articles of export. Upon thel Atlantic co.ast, too, many people are oc-i cupied in the extensive fishing trade,' which has been prosecuted here more actively than upon any of the British-1 American shores, excepting only that of > Newfoundland. The Coast of Nova Scotia. — Thei: greatest length of Nova Scotia is 356'i miles, and the greatest breadth 120 miles,' The southeast coast, in a distance of IIC' miles only from Cape Canso to Halifaxr has no less than 12 ports capaciouji enough to receive ships-of-the-line, anC' 14 deep enough for merchantmen. A belt of rugged broken land, of which thd greatest height is 500 feet, formed ofi granite and primary rock, extends alonji all the Atlantic shore, from Cape CaDS( to Cape Sable. This belt varies inbi'eadtli from 10 to 50 miles, and covers abou^^ one-third of the whole Province. Fronn Briar's Island, off Digby Neck, 130 milel^ to Capes Split and Blomidon, along thd northern coast on the Bay of Fundy, then is a ridge of wooded frowning precipice; of trap rock, which overhang the wave; at an elevation of from 100 to 600 feet These magnificent cliSs are picturesqin and grand in the extreme. They are, to^ (which is something in this utilitariai age), not only ornamental, but useful, fo they serve to protect the interior tron the terrible fogs of the bay. The Rivers, Lakes, and Bats oi Nova Scotia. — The lakes here, thougl generally small, are almost countless ii number, coverLag the southern portion of the peninsula as with a network oi smiling waters. In some instances, m Halifax.] NOVA SCOTIA. [Halifax. less than 1 00 are grouped within a space of 20 square milfts. Lake Rossignol, the largest of the region, is 30 miles long. It is near the western end of the penin- sula. Grand Lake comes next, then Col- lege Lake eastward. Minas Bay, on the north coast, the eastern arm of the Bay of Fundy, penetrating 60 miles inland, is very remarkable for the tremendous tides which rush in here, sometimes to the height of 60 to 70 feet, while they do not reach more than from 6 to 9 feet in the harbor of Halifax, directly opposite ; these are the spring-tides. They form what is called the bore. The Bays of St. Mary's, the Gut of Canso, Townsend Bay, George Bay, and Chedabucto Bay, in the eastern part of the Province, and St. Mar- garet's and Mahone Bays, on the south, are all large and most interesting waters. The Annapolis River flows into the Bay of Fundy, 100 miles from the Gar- den of Acadia. Besides this principal river there are many others navigable for a greater or less distance from their mouths, as the Shubenacadie, which, by the help of a canal, connects Cobequid Bay, from the Bay of Fundy on the north side of the peninsula, with Halifax Har- bor on the south ; the Tusket and the Clyde in the southwest extremity of the Province, the Mersey, the Musquodobolt, and the St. Mary's. Indeed, rivers pour their waters into all the many bays and harbors which so thickly stud the whole line of these remarkable coasts. Maliiax. — Hotels, Waverley, Sleui- arfs, and Halifax Hotel. Routes. — From New York direct, by the British mail steamers. From St. John, N. B., by steamer, 110 miles, to Windsor, thence by rail, 45 miles, to HaUfax. Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is upon the south coast of the peninsula, on the declivity of a hill, about 250 feethigh, rising fcom one of the finest harbors on the continent. The streets are generally broad, and for the most part macada- mized. Viewed from the water, or from the opposite shore, the city is prepossess- ing and animated. In front, the town is lined with wharves, which, from the number of vessels constantly loading and discharging, always exhibit a spectacle of great commercial activity. Warehouses rise over the wharves, or tower aloft in different parts of the town, and dwelhng- houses and public buildings rear their heads over each other, as they stretch along and up the sides of the hill. The spires of the different churches, the build- ing above the town in which the town- clock is fixed, a rotunda-built church, the signal-posts on Citadel Hill, the differ- ent batteries, the variety of style in which the houses are built (some of which are painted white, some blue, and some red) ; rows of trees showing themselves in dif- ferent parts of the town ; the ships moored opposite the dockyard, with the establish- ments and tall shears of the latter ; the merchant vessels under sail, at anchor, or along the wharves ; the wooded and rocky scenery of the background, with the islands and the small town of Dartmouth on the east shore — are all objects most agreeable to see. Of the public buildings, the chief is a handsome edifice of stone, called the Province Building, 140 feet long by TO broad, and ornamented with a colonnade of the Ionic order. It comprises suitable chambers for the accommodation of the Council and Legislative Assembly, and also for various Government offices. The Government House, in the southern part of the town, is a solid but gloomy-looking structure, near which is the residence of the military commandant. The admiral's residence, on the north side of the town, is a plain building of stone. The north and south barracks are capable of accom- modating three regiments. The Welling- ton Barracks (in the northern part of the town), which comprises two long ranges of substantial stone and brick buildings, is the most extensive and costly establish- ment of the kind in North America. There is also a Military Hospital, erected by the late Duke of Kent. Dalhousie College is a handsome edifice of freestone. Among the churches of various denomi- nations are several of the English estab- lishment, and of the Presbyterian order, and two of the Roman Catholic faith. .The Court-House is a spacious freestcne structure, in the southern part of the town. In the suburbs is a new Hospital. The banking establishments are four in number. The hotels and boarding-houses are not of the highest order. The in- 455 Halifax.] NOVA SCOTIA. [Haluax. habitants of Halifax are intelligent and social, and travellers will remark a tone of society here more decidedly Enf:;lisli than in most of the other colonial cities. The harbor opposite the town is more than a mile wide, and has, at medium tides, a depth of 12 fathoms. About a mile above the upper end of the town it narrows to one-fourth of a mile, and then expands into Bedford Basin, which has a surface of ten square miles, and is com- pletely land-locked. On an island oppo- site the town are some strong mounted batteries. The harbor is also defended by some other minor fortifications. The Citadel occupies the summit of the heights commanding the town, and is a mile in circumference. It is a costly work, and, after that of Quebec, is the strongest fortress in the British North American colonies. 436 Halifax, ever since its settlement in 1Y49, has been the scat of a profitable fishery. Its trade, which is in a very prosperous condition, is principally with the West Indies and other British colo- nies, Avith the United States, and the mother country. It is also the cliief rendezvous and naval depot for the British i navy on the North American station. The British Government having madi> Halifax one of the stopping-places of the Cunard line of steamers, in their trips either way across the Atlantic, has added i greatly to its importance as a maritime. city, as well as advanced its commercial I prosperity. From Halifax the traveller can return to New York by rail to Windsor, and > thence by International Steamship Line to Portland or Boston, thence by rail or ; steamer to New York. f lE^DEX. [The names of hotels will he found in italics in connection with the respective cities and Itowns throughout the work]. lAherdeen, Miss., 338. iAcapulco, Mex., 239. Across the Continent, 287. lA;:lams, Mass., 74. {Adirondack Mountains, N. Y., 64. 'Admiralty Inlet, W. T., 269. Adrian, Mich., 229. Alabama, State of, 381. The hill region, 385. ^Mahama River, 381. Albany, N.Y., 4.3. Albany, Ga.. 369. Albion, N. Y., 58. Albuquerque, N. M., 274. f^lexandria, Va., 323. \ll3ntown. Pa., 166. Mmaden Mines, CaL, 259. (Almanac, The Travellers', 468. Mtamont, Md., 307. ilthouse, CaL, 248. ^ton. 111., 195. "toona, Pa., 158.' herst, Mass., i)9. micalolah Falls, Ga., 372. mmonoosuc River, N. H., 113. ndover, Mass., 95. ndroscoggin River, Me., 123. ndroscoggiu Lake, Me., 124. nnapolis, Md., 310. >.nnapolis River, N. S.,455. i.nn Arbor, Mich., 228. Inoka, Miun., 216. uitietam, Md., 304. ippalachicola. Fla,, 379. pplcton, Wis., 223. irizona. Territory of, 271. ^.rkansas. State of, 407. Arkansas River, 407. rkansas Post, Ark., 408. Lrlington, D. C, 323. .shland, Ky., 418. spinwall, Isthmus of Panama, 237. storia, L. I., 29. Istoria, Oregon, 267. tchison, Kan., 232. thens, N. Y., 43. thens, Ga., 367. tianta, Ga., 367. tlantic City, N. J., 130. uburn, N. Y., 57. uburn, Cal., 249. ugusta, Me., 123. ugusta, Ga., 367. urora, 111., 197. arora, Nev., 276. 20 Ausahle Falls, N. Y., 51. Austin, Texas, 405. Austin, Nevada, 276. Avon Springs, N. Y., 69. Ballston Springs, N. Y., 46. Baltimore, 293. Map of, 292. Vicinity, 298. Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Md., 301. Route to Washington, 302. Route to Philadelphia, 292 Bangor, Me., 123. Bannack, Montana Territory, 283. Barbacoas, 237. Barrington, Conn., 74. Bastrop, Texas, 406. Batesville, Ai-k., 408. Bath, Me., 122. Baton Rouge, La., 401. Bay of San Pablo, Cal., 233. Bay of Suisun, Cal., 244. Beaufort, N. C, 346. Beaufort, S. C, 355. Bedford Springs, Pa., 171. Belfast, Me., 123. BeUaire, O., 179. Belle Plaiue, Minn., 217. Bellows Palls, Vt., 104. Beloit, Wis., 223. Benicia, Cal., 244. Bennington, Vt., 116. Bergen, N. J., 130. Berkeley Springs, Md., 305. Bethlehem, Pa., 166. Beverly, Mass., 95. Beverly, on the Delaware, 139. Biddeford, Me., 121. Binghamton, N. Y., 54. Black Hawk, Col.. 285. Black Mountain, N. C, 347. Black Warrior River, Ala., 382. Blackwell's Island, N. Y. harbor, 29. Bloomingdale, N. Y., 32. Bloomiugton, 111., 197. Bloomsbury, N. J., 131. Blowing Cave, Va., 342. Blue Lick Springs, Ky., 421. Blue Mounds, Wis., 220. Boise City, Idaho Ter., 280. Boi'dentown, N. J., 129. . Boston and Vicinity, 81. Map of, 81. East Boston, 83. 457 INDEX. South Boston, 83. Mount Auburn, 88. Routes from New York to, 81. Bradford, Mass., 96. Bradford, Vt., 105. Braintree, Mass., 91. Brandon, Vt., 116. Brattleboro, Vt., 103. Brazos Kiver, Texas, 404. Bridgeport, Conn., 71. Bridgewater, Mass., 91. Brighton, Mass., 90, 93. Bristol, Pa., 129. British Provinces, the, 435. Brocliport, N. Y., 88. Brocliville, C. W., 443. Broolilyn, N. Y., a4. Prospect Parli, 25. Greenwood, 25. Ferries from New York to, 27. U. S. Navy Yard, 26. Brownsvilie, Neb., 234. Brown University, Providence, E. I., 77. Brownsville, Texas, 406. Brunswick, Me., 122. Bnishville, L. I., 30. Budd's Lake, N. J., 132. Buftalo, N. Y., 58. Bull's Ferry, Hudson River, 32. Bunker Hill, Charlestown, 96. Burkesville, Va., 3.33. Burlington, Vt., 50, 115. Burlington, N. J., 129. Burlington, Iowa, 207. Cairo, 111., 198. Calais, Me., 124. Caldwell's Landing, N. Y., 36. Caledonia Springs, Canada, 436. California, History and Topography, 235. Cambridge, Mass., 92. Camden and Amboy Railway, 129. Camden, N. J., 129. Camden, S. C, 354. Camden, Ark., 408. Camel's Hump Mountain, Vt., 115. Campton and West Campton, N. H., 107. Canada — Its Geography and Area; Discovery, Settlement, and Rulers ; Government • Religion ; Landscape ; Mountains ; and Rivers, 435. Canandaigua Lake, N. Y., 5. Canandaigua, N. Y. Central Railway, 52. Cannon Falls, Minn., 218. Cafion City, Col., 285. Canterbury, N. Y., 39. Canton, Miss., 388. Cape Cod and the Sea Islands, 91. Cape Elizabeth, Me., 121. Cape Girardeau, Mo., 204. Cape May, N. J., 131. Cape Maysi, Cuba, 237. Cape St. Lucas, Cal., 239. Carlisle, Pa., 1G8. Carondelet, Mo., 205. Carquinez, Straits of, Cal., 244. Carrollton Viaduct, Md., 301. Carson City, Nevada, 296. Carson Valley, 250. Carver, Minn., 216. Cascade Range, Or., 266. Cascade Bridge, N. Y. & Erie E. E., 54. Catalamet, Wash. Ter., 269. 458 Catawissa, Pa., 162. Catskill Village, 40. Catskill Mountains (the). Routes thither, 40. The High Falls, 41. The High Peak, 42. The Mountain House, 42. £1 The PlauterkiU Clove, 42. 1 The Stony Glove, 41. " The Two Lakes, 41. Gaudy's Castle, Va., 343. ' Gaughnawaga, Canada, 446. Cayuga, N. Y. Central Railway, 57. Cayuga Lake, N. Y., 57. Cedar City, Utah, 279. Cedar River, Iowa, 206. Cedar Falls, Iowa, 208. Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 208. Cedarmere, L. I., 30. Centre Harbor, N. H., 106. Central City, Col., 285. Ghambersburg, Pa., 169. Charleston, S. G., 350. Map of, 350. Charlestown, Mass., 96. Charlestovra, N. H., 104. Charlestown, Del., 135. Charlotte, N. C, 346. Charlotte, N. Y., 443. Charlottesville, Va., 334. Chaska, Minn., 216, Chattahoochee River, Ga., 363. Chattanooga, Tenn., 409. Chaudiere Falls, Canada, 448. Cheat River, Md., 307. Chelsea, Mass., 94. Chelsea Beach, Mass., 90. Cheraw, S. G., 355. Cherry Valley, N. Y., 69. Chesapeake Bay, Md., 299. Chester, Del., 134. Chicago, m., 188. Map of, 188. Ghicopee, Mass., 97. Ghillicothe, O., 180. Chippewa, N. Y., 61. Chisago Lake, Minn., 218. Ghryseler's Fann, Canada, 441. Cincinnati, O., 173. Map of, 173. City Point, Va., 331. Claremont, N. H., 104. Clarendon Springs, Vt., 116. Clarksville, Ga., 370. Cleveland, O., 179. Cobui-g, Canada, 443. Cohassett, Mass., 91. Cold Spring, N. Y.. 38. Colorado Territoi-y', 284. Colorado City, Col., 285. Colorado River, Texas, 404. Columbia Springs, N. Y., 43, 69. Columbia, Pa., 168. Columbia, S. C, 354. Columbia, Tenn., 413. Columbia, Mo., 204. Columbia, Cal., 256. Columbia River, Dr., 265. Columbus, Ga., 369. Columbus, Miss., .388. Columbus, O., 178. Columbus, Neb., 234. Coney Island, N. Y. Harbor, 29. Concord, Mass., 96. Concord, N. H., 103. INDEX. Connecticut River, etc., 96. Connecticut, State of, 70. Conway Valley, N. H., 106. Cooperstown, N. Y., 69. Cooper's Well, Miss., 98. Cornwall Landing, N. Y., 39. Corniner, IST. Y;, Ki. Cornwall, C. W., «1. Corry, Pa., 162, 105. Coulterville, Cal., 257. Covington, Ky., 417. Cowpens, battle of, S. C, 349. Cossackie, N. Y., 43. Cozzens, N. Y., 37. Crampton's Gap, Md., 303. Cranberry Summit, Md., 307. Crescent City, Cal., 263. Crcsson Springs, Pa., 171. Croton Falls, N. Y., 45. Croton Point, N. Y., 35. Cro' Nest, N. Y., 38. Crow Wing, Minn., 216. Culabra, Isthmus of Panama, 238. Cumberland, Md., 300'. Cumberland Gap, Ky., 423. Cumberland River, Ky., 415. Currahee Mountain, Ga., 370. Cynthiana, Ky., 417. Dacotah Territory, 286. Dahlonega, Ga., 372. Dalles City, Oregon, 267. Dalton, Ga., 368. Dan's Mountain, Md., 306. Danville, Va., 333. Dartmouth College, Hanover, N. H., 105. Davenport, Iowa, 207. Dayton, Nevada, 276. Dayton, O., 177. Decatur, Ga., 368. Decatur, 111., 198. Decatur, Nebraska, 234. Deerfield Mountain, Mass., 99. Delaware, State of, 133. Delaware River, 139. Delaware Water Gap, Pa., 109. Denver, Col., 284. DePere,'Wis., 223. Des Moines River, Iowa, 207. Des Moines, la., 208. Des Plaines River, 111., 187. Detroit, Mich., 227. Devil's Pulpit, Ky., 421. Diamond Cave, Ky., 421. Dickenson Lauding, C. W., 411. District of Columbia, 311. Dixon, 111., 197. Dobb's Ferry, Hudson River, 34. Doe Gully, Md., 305. Doniphan, Kansas, 232. Dover, N. J., 131. Dover, Del., 136. Dover Plains, Harlem Railway, 45. Downington, Pa., 156. Dowuieville, Cal., 248. Drennon Springs, Ky., 422. Dubuque, Iowa, 207. Duucaiinon, Pa., 150. Dunkirk, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 56. IKiL -1 Flat, Cal., 349. East Cambridge, Mass., 92. Eastern Shore of Maryland and Vii:giuia, 299. Eastport, Me., 123. Eastatoia Falls, Ga., 371. Eastern Railway, Mass., 94. Easthampton, Mass., 97. Baston, Pa., 166. Eatonton, Ga., 369. Echo Lake, N. H., 110. Edgefield, Tenn., 411. Elizabeth, N. J., 127. Elkton, Del., 135. Ellicott's Mills, Md., 302. Elmira, N. Y., 55. Empire City, Col., 285. Enfield, Conn., 73. Enterprise, Fla., 377. Ephrata Springs, Pa., 156. Epsom Salts Cave, Ind., 183. Erie, Pa., 163. Escanaba, Wis., 223. Evanston, 111., 197. Evansville, Ind., 185. Eutaw Springs, S. C, 355. Fallen Leaf Lake, CaL, 251. Pall City, Neb., 234. Fall River, Mass., 92. Fall River Route— N. Y. to Boston, 81. Falls Village, Conn., 73. Falls of the Passaic, N. J., 131. Falls of the Sawkill, N. Y., 53. Falls of St. Anthony, Minn., 213. FaUs of St. Anm3, C. E., 448. FaUs of the St. Louis, MLun., 215. Falmouth, Ky., 417. Faribault, Minn., 217. ' Farmiugton, Md., 308. FayettevUle, N. C 346. Fernandiua, Fla., .378. Petterman, Md., 308. Fillmore City, Utah, 379. Fishkill, N. Y., 39. Fitchburg, Mass., 96. Flatbush, L. I., 29. Flatlands, L. I., 29. Flint River, Ga., 363. Florence, Ala., 385. Florida, State of, 375. Flushing, L. I., 31. Folsom, Cal., 349. Fond du Lac, Wis., 323. Fontenelle, Neb., 234. Fort Atkinson, Wis., 224. Fort Des Moines, Iowa, 208. Fort Hamilton, N. Y., 28. Fort Hill, Md., 306. FortHUl, S. C.,.361. Fort Hope, C. W., 44.3. Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, 232. FortLee, N. Y.,33. Fort Madison, Iowa, 208. Fort McAllister, Ga., 366. Fort McHenry, Md., 297. Fort Moultrie, S. C, 351. Fort Plain, N. Y., 56. Fort Pulaski, Ga., 366. Fort Riley, Kansas, 232. Fort Smith, Ai-kansas, 408. Fort Scott, Kansas, 232. Fort Snelling, Minn., 214. Fort Sumter, S. C, 351. Fort Tejon, Cal., 260. Fort Ticouderoga, N. Y., 48. Fort Valley, Ga., ,369. Fort Vancouver, Washington, 269. 459 INDEX. Fort Washineiton, N.Y., 33. Fort Wayne, Ind., 184. Fortification Kock, Wis., S20. Fortress Monroe, Va., 330. Fountain Cave, Minn., 213. Fox Kiver, 111., 188. Fox and Pliillips Springs, Ky., 423. Framingham, Mass., 93. Francouia Hills, N. H., 109. Franlvfort, Ky., 413. Franklin, Pa., 104. Franklin, Md., 297. Frcdericton, N. B., 453. Frederick, Md., 302. Fredcricksburs;, Va., 233. Freeport, 111., 197. Fremont, Neb., 234. French Broad River, N. C, 347. Freucli Creek, C. W., 443. Gadsby's Enn, Md.,301. Galena, Bl., 197. Galesburg, 111., 197. Galveston, Texas, 404. Gananoque, C. W., 443. Gardiner, Me., 122. Gasconade, Mo., 201. Gates of the Rocky Mountains, Mo. River. Gatuu Station, Isthmus of Panama, 237. Genesee Falls, N. Y., 57. Geneva, N. Y., 57. Genoa, Nev., 376. Georgetown, Mass., 96. Georgeto-sTO, D. C, 321. Georgetown, S. C, 358. Georgeville, C. B., 118. Georgia, State of, 362. i Railways, 363. Rivers, 362. Mountain region of, 370. Gettysburg, Pa., 169. Geyser Springs, Cal., 255. Ginger Cake Rock, N. C, 347. Glen Cove, L. I., 31. Glenns Falls, N. Y., 47. Golden City, Cal., 285. Gordonsville, Va., 334. Gorham, N. H., 108. Grafton, Mass., 93. Grafton, Md., 308. Grand Haven, Mich., 228. Grand Prairie, El,, 186. Grand Rapids, Mich., 229. Grand Tnink Railway, Canada, 436. Grass Valley, Cal., 249. Gravesend, L. I., 29. Great Barrington, Mass., 74. Great Bend of Connecticut River, Mass., 09. Great Falls of the Missouri, 200. Great Salt Lake City, Utah, 278. Great Salt Lake, Utah, 277. Great Sioux River, Iowa, 206. Green Bay, Wis., 223. Green Bush, N. Y., 44. Greenfield, Mass., 99. Green Island, Wis., 225. Green Lake, Minn., 218. Green River, Ky., 415. Greensburg, Pa., 159. Greenville, S. C, 359. Greenwood Lake, N. Y., 132. Greenwood Cemetery, N. Y., 25. Grenada, Miss., 387. 460 Grinnell, Iowa, 209. Groton, Mass., 96. Gwynn's Falls, Bait, and O. E. E., 801, Hackensack, N. J., 131. Hackettstown, N. J., 131. Hadley, Mass., 98. Hagerstown, Md., .309. Halifax, N. S., 455. Hallowell, Me., 123. Hamilton, O., 177. Hamilton, C. W., 443. Hampton, N. H., 103. Hancock, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 54. Hancock, Md., 305. Hanging Rocks, Va., 343. Hanover, N. H., 105. Hanover Court-House, Va., 334. Hannibal, Mo., 204. Harlem Railway, N. Y., 45. Harrison Square, Mass., 91. Harrodsburg, Ky., 421. Harrodsburg Springs, Ky., 419. Harper's Ferry, Va., 335. Harrisbirrg, Pa., 163. Hartford, Conn., 72. Hartland, N. H., 105. Harvard University, Cambridge, 87. Hastings, N. Y., 34. Hastings, Minn., 217. ' Hatfield, Mass., 99. Haverhill, Mass., 96. i Haverstraw, on the Hudson, 36. 3 Havre-de-Grace, Md., 136. | Hawk's Bill, N. C, 347. ? Hawk's Nest, Va., 343. '; Healdsburg, Cal., 252. :: Helena, Montana Ter., 283. Hellertown, Pa., 165. Hempstead Village, L. I., 30. Hermitage, Home of Gen. Jackson, 411. Hiawassee FaUs, Ga., 372. Hibernia, Fla.. 376. Highlands of the Hudson, 37. Hingham, Mass.. 91. Hoboken, N. J., 28. Holly Springs, Miss., 388. , Holyoke, Mass., 97. Hornellsville, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 55. Hot Springs, Ark., 408. Hot Springs, Nev., 376. Housatonic River, Valley, and Railway, 73. Houston, Texas, 405. Hudson River, Description of, 33. Hudson River Railway, 31. y Hudson, N. Y., 42. ■. Humboldt, Nov., 276. Huntingdon, Pa., 158. Huntsville, Ala., 385. Hyde Park, on the Hudson, 40. Hyde Park, L. L, 30. ' Ice Mountain, Va., 343. Idaho Territory, 280. Idaho Ciry, I. T., 281. "Idlewild," on the Hudson, 39. Illinois, State of, 180. Illinois River, 187. Indian Springs, Ga., 373. Indiana, State of, 180. Indianapolis, Ind., 181. Introduction, Advice to Travellers, etc., 1. INDEX. Iowa City, 308. Iowa River, 206. Iowa, State of, 20G. Ipswich, Mass., 95. Iron Moimtaiu, Mo., 199. Irvineton, Pa., 162. Irvington and " Sunnyside," on the Hudson, 34. Island Pond, Vt., 103. Isle of Shoals, Portsmouth, l^f. H., 91, 103. Islip, L. I., 31. Jackson, Miss., 387. Jackson, Mich., 239. Jackson, Teun., 413. Jacksonville, Fla., 3T6. Jacksonville, 111., 198. Jacksonville, Cal., 248. Jamaica, L. I., 30. Jamesburg, N. J., 129. Jamestown, Va., 331. Janesville, Wis., 223. Jefferson City, Mo., 204. Jeffersonville, Ind., 184. Jersey City, N". J., 127. Jocassee Valley, S. C, 360. Johnstown, Pa., 128. Joliet, HI., 196. Juniata River, Pa., 139. Kaatskill, N. T., 40. Kalamazoo, Mich., 239. Kansas— Character and Settlement, 230. Routes thither, 331. Kansas City, Kan., 333. Kansas River, 301. Katahdin Mount., Me., 134. Kankakee River, 111., 188. Kaukauna, Wis., 323. Kearneysville, Md., 304. Kearney City, Neb., 334. Keene, N. H., 104. Keeseville, N. Y., 66. KeUy's Rock, Md., 306. Kenosha. Wis., 332. Kennebec River, Me., 135. Kensington, Pa., 139. Kentucky, State of, 414. Railways, 415. Rivers, 415. Sink-Holes, 423. Springs, 433. Kentucky River, 415. Keokuk, Iowa, 308. Keowee River, S. C, 360. Key West, Fla., 379. Killington Peak, Vt., 116. Kiuderhook. on the Hudson, 43. Kingston, Canada, 443. Kingston, on the Hudson, 40. King's Bridge, N. Y., 33. King's Mountain, Battle-field, S. C, 301. Kingwood Tunnel, B. and O. R. R., 308. Kittery, Me., 133. Knob Lick, Ky., 421. Knobly Mountain, Md., 306. Knoxville, Tenn., 413. Lachine, Canada, 440. Lackawanna, Pa., 139. Lacka waxen, N. Y., 53. La Fayette, Ind., 185, Lake Castleton, Vt., 116. Lake Champlain, N. Y., 50. Lake City, Minn., 217. Lake Dunmore, Vt., 116. Lake Erie, 444. Lake George, N. Y., 48. Lake Huron, 4ri4. Lake Mahopac, N. Y., 45. Lake Memphremagog, Vt., 119. Lake Michigan, 188. Lake Pepin, Minn., 211. Lake Pleasant, N. Y., 65. Lake Ontario, 440. Lake Region, 444. Lake St. Croix, Minn., 215. Lake St. Francis, C. E., 440. Lake St. Louis, C. E., 440. Lake Superior, 445. LakeTahoe, Nev., 376. Lake Umbagog, Me., 134 Lake Willoughby, Vt., 117. Lake Winnebago, Wis., 219. Lake Winnipesaukee, N. H., 108. Lancaster, Pa., 156. ^ Lansing, Mi(3h., 238. La Salle, 111., 196. Lauderdale Springs, Miss., 388. Lawrence, Mass., 95. Lawrence, Kansas, 233. Leavenworth City, Kansas, 233. Lebanon, Pa., 162. Lebanon, Tenn., 413. Lebanon Springs, N. Y., 43, 68, 74 Leeds's Station, Me., 133. Lehigh River, 139. Lettonian Springs, Ky., 433. Lewiston, K. Y., 63. Lewiston, Me., 133. , Lewiston, Idaho Ter., 381. Lewistown, Pa., 158. Lexington, Mass., 96. Lexington, Va., 333. Lexington, Mo., 304 Lexington, Ky., 417. Licking River, Ky., 415. Lima, O., 177. " Lindonwald," Home of Martin Van Buren^ 43. Little Bay de Noquet, Wis., 335. Little Chute, Wis., 323. Little Falls, N. Y., 56. Little Rock, Ark., 408. Little Sturgeon Pt., Wis., 235. Littleton Station, B. & O. R. R., 309. Little Wabash River, 111., 188. Lockhaven, Pa., 163. Lockport, N. Y., 58. Loudon, C. W., 441. Lone INIountain Cemetery, Cal., 241. Long Branch, N. J., 130. Long Island, N. Y., 39. Lookout Mountain, Ga., 373. Los Angeles, Cal., 360. Louisiana, State of, 389. Louisville, Ky., 415. Lowell, Mass., 94. Lynchburg, Va., 33.3. Lynn, Mass., 94 Mackinac, the Straits of, 444. Macon, Ga., 368. Madison, Ind.. 184. 461 INDEX. Madison, Wis., 222. Madiaon's Cave, Va^ 342. Madison's Springs, Ga., 373. Magnolia, Fla., STO. MuL'og, C. E., 118. Mahopac Lake, N. T., 45. Maine, State of, 119. Maitland, C. W., 443. Mainei, lathmus ot Panama, 237. Mammoth Cave. Ky., 419. Mammotli Tree Grove, Cal., 254. Manchester, N. 11., 103. Manhattan, Kansas, a32, Mankato, Minn., 217. Manniiigton. Md., .308. Maiiomin, Minn., 21G. Mansfield Mountain, Vt., 115. Maquoqueta Kiver, la., 206. Mariposa, Cal., 257. Marshall Mich., 229. Marshfield, Mass., 91. Martha's Vineyard, 91. Martinsburg, W. V., 304. Maryland, State of, 291. Marysville, Cal., 244. Marysville Buttes, 245. Massachusetts, State of, 80. Matachin, Isthmus of Panama, 2-38. Matagorda, Texas, 406. Mauch Chunk, Pa., 166. Maumee Elver, Ind., 180. Maysvllle, Ky., 419. Meadville, Pa., 164. Medford, Mass., 94. Melrose, Mass., 95. Memphremagog Lake, Vt., 117. Memphis, Tenn., 412. Menasha, "Wis., 223. Mendota, Minn., 215. Menominee, Wis., 225. Meriden, Conn., 72. Mesilla, N. M., 274. Miami Kiver, O., 17.3. Michigan, State of, 220. Middleboro, Mass., 91. Middleburgh, Fla., 376. Middlebury, Vt., 116. Middle States, the, 2 Middletown, Conn., 72. Middletown, Pa., 156. Milford, Comi., 71. Milford, Del., 1.36. MilledgeviUe, Ga., 369. Milwaukee, Wis., 221. Minneapolis, Minn., 214. Minnehaha Falls, Minn., 214. Minnesota, State of, 210. Minnesota Elver, 210. Mississippi, State of, 386. Elvers, .387. Eailways, 387. Mississippi Elver, 428. Missouri, State of, 199. Missouri Kiver, 200. Falls of the, 282. Mokelumne HiU, Cal., 254. Monocacy, Md., .302. Monongahela, Pa., 1.39. Monroe City, Mich., 228. Montana Territory, 282. Monterey, Cal., 262. Montgomery, Ala., 384. Moulicello, Home of Jefferson, 335. .Mouticello, Wash. Ter., 2U9. 4G2 Montmorenci Falls, Canada, 436. Montpelier, Vt., 114. Jiontrcal, Canada, 4.37. Moosehead Lake, Me., 124. * Moosetocknoguntic Lake, Me., 134, Morristown, N. ,J., 131. Moundsville, Va., 309. Mount Ascutney, Vt., 117. Mount Auburn Cemetery, 88. Mount Desert Island, 125. Mount llolyoke, Mass., 97. Mount Ilope, Narraganset Bay, E. I., Mount Independence, Lake Cbamplain, 50. Mount Katahdin, Me., 124. Mount Lafayette, N. H., 109. Mount Mansfield, Vt., 115. Mount St. Vincent, Hudson Eiver, 34. Mount Shasta, Cal., 246. Mount Toby, Mass., 99. Mount Torn, Mass., 97. Mount Vernon, Home and Tomb of Washiuj ton, 323. Mount Warner, Mass., 99. Mount Yonah, Ga., 371. Munfordsville, Ky., 419. Murfreesborough, Tenn., 412. Mui-phy's, Cal., 254. Muscatine, la., 208. Muscle Shoals, Ala., 385. Muskingum Kiver, O., 173. Nacoochee Valley, Ga., 371. Nahant, Mass., 90. Nantasket Beach, Mass., 90. Nanticoke, Pa., 168. Nantucket, Mass., 91. Napoleon, Ark., 408. Narraganset Bay, E. I., 76. Narrowsburg, N. Y. and Erie E. E., 54. Nashua, N. H., 94. Nashville, Tenn., 410. Napa, Cal., 253. Natchez, Miss., 388. Nauvoo, El., 196. Navassa (voyage N. Y. to Aspinwall), 237. Nazareth, Pa., 166. Nebraska City, Neb., 234. Nebraska Territory, 233. Neenah, Wis., 22:3. Nephi, Utah, 279. Neponset, Mass., 91. Nesqually, Wash. Ter., 269. Nevada, State of, 275. Nevada, Cal., 249. New Albany, Ind., 184. New Almaden, Cal., 259. Newark, N. J., 127. Newark, O.. 178. Newark, Del., 1.35. New Bedford, Mass., 92. Newbem, N. C, 346. New Britain, Conn., 72. New Brunswick, 452. New Brunswickj N. J., 127. Newburg, N. Y., 39. Newbury, N. H., 105. Newbury, Vt., 105. Newburyport, Mass., 95. Newcastle, Del., 136. New England States, the, 2. New Hamburg, N. Y., 39. New Hampshire, State of, 101. New Hampton, N. J., 131. INDEX. New Haven, Coni)., 71. New Haven, Hartford & Springfield Eoute, 70. New Jersey, State of, 126. New Jersey R. R., 126. New Lebanon Springs, N. T., 43. New London, Conn., 74. New Madrid, Mo., 205. New Mexico, Territory of, 273. Routes, 274. New Orleans, La., 390. Map of, .390. Battle of, 400. Newport, R. I., 78. Newport, Ky., 417. Newport, Me., 123. Newport, Penn., 157. New Ulm, Minn., 217. New Windsor, N. Y., 39. New York, State of. 5. New York City, 6. Map of, 6. Art Societies, etc., 17. Artists' Studios, 17. Cemeteries, 20. Charitable Institutions, 18. Churches, etc., 19. Conveyances, 10. Ferries, 10. First-class Business Houses, 23. Harlem, 28. High Bridge, Historical Sketch, 7. Hotels, etc., 7. Landmarks of the Past, 22. Libraries, 16. Literary Institutions, etc., 15. Manhattanville, Markets, 20. Places of Amusement, 11. Public Buildings, 14. Public Parks and Squares, 12. ! Routes from, 29-69. New York, Wash. Ter., 269. Niagara Falls. Niagara River, the approach, I Goat Island, the Rapids, Chapin's Island, the Toll Gate, the Cave of the Winds, Lu- na Island, Sam Patch's Leap, Biddle's Stairs, Prospect Tower, the Horse-shoe Fall, Gull Island, Grand Island, the Whirl- pool, the Devil's Hole, Chasm Tower, the Suspension Bridge, Bender's Cave, the Clifton House, Table Rock, Termination Rock, the Museum, Burning Spring, Brock's Monument, 58-63. S'ickaiack Cave, 413. ■Norfolk, Va., .3.30. STorthampton, Mass., 98. iSlorth Carolina, State of, .344. Mountain Region of, Ml. S'orth Conway, N. H., 107. SoTth Point, Md., 296. ^Northumberland, Pa., 162. ■^orwalk. Conn., 77. ■Norwich, Conn., 74. ■iforwich, Vt., 105. s^orwich Route, New York to Boston, etc., 48. !Nova Scotia, 454. Coast of, 454. , Rivers, Lakes, and Bays, 454. ^yack, Hudson River, 34. 'tekland, Cal., 242. Jukland, Pa., ;307. Ocmulgee River, Ga., 363. Oconee River, Ga., 363. Oconto, Wis., 224. Ogden, Utah, 279. Ogdensburg, N. Y., 442. Oglethorpe University, near MilledgeviUe, Ga., 369. Ohio, State of, 172. Rivers, 173. Ohio River, Description and Distances, 424, Map of, 424. Oil City, Pa., 164. Oil Creek, Pa., 163. Old Point Comfort, Va., a30. Olympia, Wash. Ter., 269. Omaha City, Neb., 233. Opeleika, Ala., 384. Orangeburg, S. C, 365. Oregon, Stute of, 265. Oregon City, 267. Oroville, Cal., 246. Osage Rivur, Mo., 201, 232. Oshkosh, Wis., 22.3. Oswego, N. Y., 442. Ottawa City, C. W., 441. Ottawa River, Canada, 439. Ottawa, 111., 196. Otter Creek Falls, Vt, 116. Overland Mail Line, 287. Owatonna, Minn., 217. Owego, N. Y. and Erie R. E., 55. Pacific City, Wash. Ter., 269. Paducah, Ky., 419. Palatine Bridge, N. Y., 56. Palisades, on the Hudson, 32. Palmyra, Mo., 204. Panama, 238. Paoli, Pa., 1.56. Paris, Ky., 417. Parkersburg, Va., 336. Parkesburg, Pa., 156. Parroquet Springs, Ky., 422. Parr's Ridge, Md., 302. Passamaquoddy Bay, 124. Patapsco River. Md., 298. Paterson, N. J., 1.31. Pawnee, Kansas, 231. Payson, Utah, 299. Peaks of Otter, Va., 340. Pearl River, Miss., .387. Peekskill, Hudson River, .36. Pendleton, S. C, 360. Penn's Cove, Wash. Ter., 270. Pennsylvania, State of, 138. Oil Region of, 163. Pensnylvania Central Railway, 156. Penobscot River, Me., 124. Pensacola, Fla., .379. Pensankee, Wis., 225. Peoria, lU., 195. Peru, 111., 196. Peshtigo, Wis., 225. Petaluma, Cal., 251. Petenwell Peak, Wis., 220. Petersburg, Pa., 158. Petersburg, Va., 331. Philadelphia and Vicinity, 139. Map of, 1.39. Philadelphia to Baltimore, 134. Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore R. R.. 134. Philadelphia to Pittsburg and the West, 155. 463 a INDEX. Phillips's Beach^ Mass., 90. Pickeus Court-House, b. C, oW. . Picolata, Fla., 376. Piedmont, Va., 307. Piermont, Hudson River, 34. Pilatka, Fla., 376. Pilot Knob, Mo., m Pilot Mountain, N. '~^-^^^'- Pilot Mountain, Ga., 3ia. Pittsburg, Pa., 159. Pittsflclcl, Mass., 74-93. Pittsfleld, Me., 122. Placerville, Cal., 2o0. Plainfiekl, Conn., 75. Plainfield, N. J., 130. Plains of Abraham, Qiiebec 447. Plantagenet Springs Canada, 43b. Platte Kiver, Mo., 201. Plattesmouth, Ne^J-, 2^1. Plattsburg, N. Y.,57. Plymouth, Mass., 91. Plymouth, N. H. 107. Pdint Judith,R. I., 79. Point Mala, 239. Point of Kocks, Md., 303. Point Sacrificios, California, 2^9. Point Shirley, Mass., 90. Pompanoosuc, Vt., 105. Portage City, Wis., 224. Portchester, N. x., 71. Port Clinton, Pa., 160. Porte des Morts, Wis., 225. Port Kent, Lake Champ am, 50. Port Jervis, N. Y. & Erie R. R., 53. Portland, Me., 120. Portland, Oregon, 267. Port Penn, Del., 137. Portsmouth, N. H., 103. Portsmouth, Va., 330. Portsmouth Grove, Mass , 92. Port Townsend, Wash. Ter., 200, Potomac River, 298. Palls of the, 323. Potsdam, N. Y., 67. Pottstown, Pa., 160. Pottsville, Pa., 161. Poughkeepsie, N. Y., 39. Po%vder Springs, Ga.., 374. Prairie du Chien, Wis., 224. Prescott, Arizona Ter., 271. Prescott, C. W., 441. Presque Isle, Pa., 162. Princeton, N. J., 128. Profile Lake, N. H^ 100. Profile Mountain, N. H., 109. Providence and Vicmity, K. 1., *o. Provo, Utah Ter., 179. Puget Sound, 263-'69. Pyramid Lal^e, Utah Ter., 378. Quakake, Pa., 166. Quebec, C. E., 446. Vicinity, 447. Queenstown, N. Y., 63. Quincy, Mass., 91. QuiBcy, 111., 195. Racine, Wis., 324 Rahway, N. J., 127. itmf^oYalfe,'tY.andErieR.R.,52. Randolph, Mass., 91. 464 Reading, Mass., 95. Reading, Pa., 160. Red Bank, N. J., 130. RedBlufi', Cal.,346. Red Mountain, N. H., 106. Red Sulphur Springs, Ga., 374. Red Wing, Minn 217. Red Wood Falls, Mmn., 218. Relay House, Md., 301. Reno, Pa., 164. ,-, v 4n Khinebeck Landing, N. Y., 40. Rhode Island, State of, 7b. Richfield Springs, N. Y., 69. Richmond, Va., 32b. Richmond, Ind., 185. Rideau Falls, C. E., 436. Rio Grande, Texas, 404 Roberts Run, Md., 301. Rochester, N.Y., 57. "' Rochester, Minn., 218. Rockaway, L. I., 30. Rockford, 111., 19T. Rock Island, 111. 196. Rockland Lake, Hudson River, 35. Rock Mountain, Ga., 3(3. Rock River, 111., 187. Rocky Point, R. L, 77. Rogers' Slide, Lake George, 49. Roudout, on the Hudson, 40. Rossersville, Ky., 419. Rouse's Point, N. Y., 51. Rowland Springs, Ga., 3(3. Ruby City, Idaho Ter., 280. Rulo, Neb., 234. Rutland, Vt., 115. St. Albans, Vt , 115. St. Andrews, N. B., 453. St Anne's Falls, Canada, 436. St. Anthony, Minn., 213. Falls of, 213. St. Augustine, Fla 3(7. St. CatWines, C.W.,444. St. Charles City, Mo., 204 St. Croix Falls, Minn , 215. St. Francis River, Ark., 4U». St. Genevieve, Mo., 205. St. Helens, Oregon, 267. St. Jolin,N.B.,453. St. Jolm's River, N. B.. 453. St. John's River, Fla., 37b. St. Joseph, Mo.; 304 St. Lawrence River, •WO. St. Leon Springs, C. E., 4db. St. Louis, Mo., 201.. St. Louis River, Wis., 220. St. Marys, Ga., 378. St. Mary's River, Fla-, 3(8. St. Mary, Straits of, 445. St. Paul, Minn., 312. St. Peter, Minn., 217. St. Regis, Canada, 441. Sabbat1i-i)ay Point, Lake George, Sacketts Harbor, N. \., 44. Saco, Me., 121. Saco River, Me., 125. Sacramento City, Cal., ^. Sacramento River, Cal., 244. Saddle Mountain, Mass., 74. Sagiienay River, C.E., 449. Salamanca, N. Y., 55. Salem, Mass., 95. INDEX. Salem, Oregon, 267. Salisbury, Bel., 137. Salisbury Beach, Mass., 95. Salisbury Lakes, Coun, 74, Salt Eiver, Ky., 415. San Andreas, Cal., 254. San Antonio, Texas, 405. San Diego, Cal., 261. Sandusky, O., 177. San Francisco, Voyage to from N.T., 236, 240. San Francisco, Cal., 240. Map of, 240. Sangamon River, HI., 188. San Jose, Cal., 259. San Pablo Bay. Cal., 237. Santa Barbara, Cal., 261. Santa Cruz, Cal., 262. Santa Fe,N. M., 273. Saranac Lakes, N. Y., 64. Saratoga Springs, N. Y., 46. Saugerties, N. Y., 40. Sault Ste. Marie, 445. Savannah, Ga., 364. Vicinity of, 366. Savannah Eiver, 362. Savin Hill, Mass., 91. Schenectady, N. Y., 56. Schooley's Mountain, N. J., 133. Schuylk'Ul Eiver, Pa., 139. Schuylkill Haven, Pa., 161. Scioto Eiver, O., 172. Scotch Plains, N. J., 130. Scranton, Pa., 169. Seabrook, Mass., 95. Seaford, Del., 137. Seattle, Wash. Ter., 261. S.ebago Pond, Me., 124. Selma, Ala., 384. Seneca Falls, N. Y., 57. Seneca Lake, N. Y., 55. Shaker Village, N. Y., 68. Shakopee, Minn., 216. Sharon Springs, N. Y., 68. Sharpsburg, Md., 305. Shasta City, Cal., 247. Shawanegan Falls, C. E., 436. Sheboygan, Wis., 224. Sheffield, Conn., 74. Shenandoah Eiver, Va., 325. Shickshinney, Pa., 168. Shrewsbury, N. J., 180. Sierra Nevada Mountains, Cal., 248. Silver City, Nev., 276. Silver City. I. T., 280. Sing Sing, iST. Y., 35. Sioux Eiver and Eapids, Minn., 215. Sir John's Eun, Md., 305. Skeneateles, N. Y., 57. Skcneateles Lake, N. Y., 57. Skowhegan, Me., 122. Skunk Eiver, Iowa, 206. Slicking Falls, S. C, 359. Somerset, Mass., 92. Sonierville, Mass., 94, 95. Somerville, N. J., 131. Sonora, Cal., 256. South Abington, Mass., 91. South Amboy, N. J., 129. South Berwick, Me., 122. South Braintrce, Mass., 91. South Carolina, 349. Seaboard and Lowlands, 356. Mountain Villages and Scenery, 359. South Mountain, Md., 303. 30 Southern States, the Population, etc., 2. Spartanbui-g, S. C, 360. Springfield, Mass., 98. Springfield, O., 178. Springfield, 111., 194. Springs in Canada :— The Caledonia, the Plan- tagenet, the St. Leon, and St. Catha- rines. Eoutes thither. Springs in New York, C8. Squam Lake, N. H., 106. Stamford, Conn., 71. Stanton, Del., 135. Star City, Nev., 276. Starrucca Viaduct, N. Y. and Erie E. E., 64. Staten Island, N. Y., 28. Staunton, Va., 335. Steilacoom, Wash. Ter., 269. Stillwater, Minn., 217. Stockbridge, Mass., 74. Stockton, iJtah, 279. Stockton, Cal., 253. Stone Mountain, Ga., 372. Stonington Eoute from N. Y. to Boston, 81. Stonington, Conn., 75. Stony Point, Hudson Eiver, 36. Stoughton, Mass., 91. Straits of Carquiuez, Cal., 214. Strawberry Island, Wis., 225. Sturgeon Bay, Wis., 225. Sugar Loaf Mountain, Mass., 99, 124. Sugar Loaf jMountain, Md., S03. Sulphur Springs, Ga., 373. Sunbury, Pa., 162. Superior City, Minn., 446. Susquehanna Eiver, 139, 161. Swampscott, Mass., 95. Swannanoa Gap, N. C, 347. Syracuse, N. Y., 57. Table Mountain, S. C, 359. Table Eock, N. C, 347. Tacony, N. J., 129. Tahlac Mountain, Cal., 251. Tallahassee, Pla., 378. Tallulah Falls, Ga., 370. Tampa, Fla., 379. Tappau, N. Y., 34. Tarpeian Eock, Md., 302. Tar and Breckenridge White Sulphur Springs, Ky.,423. Tar and Sulphur Springs, Ky., 422. Tarrytown, on the HucTson, 34. Taugkanic Mountains., Mass., 74. Taunton, Mass., 92. Taylor's Falls, Minn., 217. Tea Table, Va., 348. Tennessee Caves and Mounds, 413. Tennessee Eiver, 409. Tennessee, State ol", 409. Eailways, 410. ■ Terre Haute, Ind., 184. Territories, TJ. S., the Population of, etc., 2. Texas, State of, 403. Eivers, 404. Eailways, 404. Thompsonville, Conn., 73. Thousand Isles, the, 440. Thundering Springs, Ga., 374. Ticonderoga, Fort^ N. Y., 48. Tiflin, O., 178. Tinton Falls, N. J., 130. Titusville, Pa., 165. Tiverton, Mass., 92. Tivoli, N. Y., 40. 465 INDEX. Toboga, 239. Toboquilla, 239. Toccoa Falls, Ga., 370. Toledo, O., 177. Tombigbee EiYcr, Ala., 388. Topeka, Kansas, 232. Toronto, Canada, 443. Towalaga Falls, Ga., 373. Trenton Falls, N. Y., U7. Trenton, N. J., 128. Troy, N. Y., 44. Try sting Eock, Ga., 371. Tuckelata, N. M., 274. Tuscaloosa, Ala., 384. Tuscumbla, Ala., 385. Tyrone City, Pa., 158. TJmbagog Lake, Me., 124. "Undercliff," on the Hudson, 38. Union College, Schenectady, N. Y., 56. Union Pacific E. E., 287. United States— Extent and Population, 1. History, Government, etc., 3. University of Virginia, 334. Utah Territory, 277. Eoutes, 277. Utica, N. Y., 56. Valencia, N. M., 274. ValleyFalls, E. I.,79. Valley Forge, Pa., 160. Valley of Nacoochee, Ga., 371. Valley of Wyoming, Pa., 166. Van Buren, Ark., 408. Verdrieteges Hook, K. Y., 35. Vermilion, 111., 188. Vermont Central Eailway, 114. Vermont, State of, 114. Verplanck's Point, N. Y., 35, 36. Vicksburg, Miss., 388. Victoria, V. I., 263, 270. Virginia, State of— Eoutes, etc., 325. Springs, 336. Alleghany Springs, 339. Bath Alum Springs, 339. Berkeley Springs, 339. The Blue Sulphur, 338. The Eed Sulphur, 338. Capon Spi-ings, 339. DibreU's Springs, 339. Fauquier White Sulphur, 339. Grayson's Sulphur, 340. Hot Springs, .339. Huguenot Springs, 340. New London Alum, 340. Pulaski Alum Springs, 340. Eed Sweet Springs, 339. Eockbridge Alum, 339. Salt Sulphur, 338. Shannondale Springs, 339. Sweet Springs, 338. Warm Springs, 339. White Sulphur, 337. Virginia City, Montana Ter., 283. Virginia, Nevada, 275. Visalia, Cal., 260. Wabash Eiver, Ind., 187. Wabashaw, Minn., 217. Wabassport, Wash. Ter., 269. WachuUa, Fla., 379. 466 Walhalla, S. C, -360. Walla- Walla, Oregon, 267. Walled Banks of the Ausable, N. Y., 51, Wallingford, Conn., 72. Walpo'le, N. H., 104. Waltham, Mass., 96. Wapsipinicon Eiver, Iowa, 206. Wapwollopen, Pa., 168. Warm Springs, N. C, 348. Warm Springs, Ga., 373. Warren, Pa., 165. Washington City, D. C, 311. Map of, 311. Washington Territory, 269. Washoe City, Nev., 276. Waterbury, Conn., 75. Waterbury, Vt., 115. Watertown, Mass., 96. Watertown, Wis., 224. Waterville, Me., 122. Watling's Island, 2-36. Waukegan, El., 197. Waukesha, Wis., 224. Weehawken, N. J., 28. Weir's Cave, Va., 342. Weldon, N. C, 346. Wellsburg, Va., 336. Wells Eiver, Vt., 106. Wenham, Mass., 95. West Cambridge, Mass., 96. West Campton, N. H., 107. Western States, the, 2. Population of, etc., 2. Westfield, Mass., 93. Westminster, Vt., 104. Weston, Mo., 204. West Point, N. Y., 37. Wethersfield,. Conn., 73. Wlieatland, near Lancaster, Pa., 156. Wheeling, W. V., 335. Whidby's Island, Puget Sound, 3TO. Whitehall, Pa., 156. WhitehaU, N. Y., 49. White Mountains, N. H., 101. Map, notes, etc., 101-103. The Ammonoosuc Eiver, 112. The Basin, 110. Cannon Mountain, 109. The Crystal Falls. 113. The Devil's Den, 112. DixviUe Hills, 113. Eagle Cliiff, 109. Echo Lake, 110. The Flume, 110. The Franconia Hills, 108. Great Notch, 112. Hotels, 108. Mount Lafayette, 109. Mt. Washington, 110. Oakes's Gulf, 112. The " Old Man of the Mountain," or Pro*? file Eock, 110. The Pool, 113. The Profile Lake, 110. The Silver Cascade, 112. Tuckerman's Eavine, 111. The Willey House, 109. White Plains, N. Y., 45. White Eiver, Ark., 407. White Eiver Junction, 105. White Sulphur Springs, Ky., 423. White Water, Wis., 224. White Water Cataracts, S. C, 360. Wilkesbarre, Pa., 167. INDEX. Willamette River, Or., 266. VaUey, Or., 266. Williamsburg, Va., 331. Williams Cofie^e, Mass., 74. Williamsport, Pa., 162. Williamstown, Mass., 74. Willimantic, Conn., 75. Willoughby-Lake, Vt., 117. Wilmington, Del., 134. Wilmington, Mass., 93. Wilmington, N. C, 346. Winchester, Mass., 94. Winchester, Va., 335. Windsor, Vt., 105. Winnebago Lake, 219. Winnipisaukee Lake, 106. Winona, Minn., 218. Winooski Valley and Elver, Vt., 115. Winsted, Conn., 75. Wisconsin Eiver, 219. Wisconsin, State of, 219. Wobum, Mass., 94. Wolfe's Cove, Quebec, 448. Woodbum, Ky., 418. "Woodlands," S. C, 355. Woonsocket, R. I., 79. Worcester, Mass., 98. Wrightstown, Wis., 223. Wyandotte Cave, Ind., 181. Wyoming Valley, Pa., 167. Yankton, Dacotah Ter., 286. Yazoo Eiver, Miss., 198. Yellowstone Eiver, 201. Yonah, Mount, Ga., 371. Yonkers, Hudson River, 33. York, Pa., 134. Yorktown, Va., 332. YorkviUe, S. C, 360. Yo-Semite Valley, Cal., 267. Youghiogheny River, Pa., 139. Ypsilanti, Mich., 228. Yreka, Cal., 248. Zanesville, O., 17. Zenia, O., 178. 467 CALENDAR FOR 1867-'68. 1867. c P '7^ B CO & p. 5j 1868. (72 C e c C n & p a> a- I5I (72 P S" •-3 , , .. .. ^ ^ 1 1 2 3 4 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 JPNE . . . .^ 9 16 10 11 18 12 19 13 20 14 21 15 22 JMUARY. .- 1213 19 20 14 21 15 22 1.6 23 17 24 18 25 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 26127 28 29 30 31 ., 30 . , , , 1 2 3 4 5 6 , , , , 1 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 JCLT - 14 21 16 22 16 23 17 24 18 25 19 26 20 27 FEBRUARY .- 9 16 10 17 11 18 12 19 13 14 20 21 15 22 28 29 30 31 •• •• •• 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 ;; .. * * ;; 1 *2 '3 > i *2 '3 4 "5 "e "7 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 8| 9 10 11 12 13 14 AUCrST ... 11 18 12 19 13 20 14 21 15 22 16 23 17 24 JJIARCH ... 15 22 16 17 23124 18 25 19 26 20 27 21 28 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 29 30 31 •• •• • • •• . ^ "i '2 3 4 5 'e 'h -' • * • • 'i *2 3 *4 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 SEPTEJIBER 15 22 16 23 17 24 18 25 19 26 20 27 21 28 APRIL. . . .- 12 19 13 20 14 21 15 22 16 23 17 24 18 25 29 30 •• •• •• •• •• 26 27 28 29 30 •• > " 1 2 3 4 5 > " • • • • * " ' • "i 2 6 h 8 9 10 11 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 OCTOBER . . 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 MAT - 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 20 21 22 2324 25 26 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 27 28 29 30 31 .. 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 , , , , , , . , , , , ^ 31 , , 1 2 r 1 2 3 4 5 6 3 4 6 6 7 8 9 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 NOVEMBER.^ 10 11 18 12 19 13 20 14 21 15 22 16 23 JUNE . . . .- 14 21 15 22 16 23 17 24 18 25 1920 26 27 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 28 29 30 •• r i *2 '3 '4 5 *6 "n > • ' ' * i "2 "3 4 8 9 10 11 12 13 141 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 DECEMBER.- 15 22 16 23 17 24 18 25 19 26 20 27 21 28 JULY . . . .- 12 19 13 14 20!21 15 22 16 23 17J18 24 25 29 30 31 • • .. .. 26 27 28 29 30 31 .. ^ 1- • .. _•_•_ Opposite Bond Street. 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Photographic PICTURE FRAMES, 25 cents to $1. School Books and Pocket Books. POCKET KNIVES. Gold and Silver PENCI L CASES. PO RTFOLIOS, WRITING DESKS, &c. Together with a fine assortment of ALL OF WSICH WILL BE SOLD AT THE LOWEST CASH PRICES. F. XITCOMB, Southeast cmi-ner DaupJiin and Moyal Streets, Mobile. 52 Dauphin Street, Mobile, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN tlliliFfi MUSIC km MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. I*ia.TDlislxers' Trade Ijists "Waiited. 9 DENECHAUD'S IgTlllllf 111 iit%w.,, 17 NOMTH MOTAL STMEET, (Opposite the Battle House,) RtQ'SBLEe, BRANCH HOUSE: CORNER GROVE AND WALNUT STS., VICKSBURG, MISS. Ed. IDEISTECH^TID, I>roprietor. Private Mootns for Private Parties in Both Houses* LUNCH AT ALL HOURS FOR TRAVELLERS. L&Sf lEa HOUSE. Mulberry Street, Macon, Ca. G-EO. M. LOaAN, Proprietor. Omnibus and Baggage Wagon at each Train to convey Passen- gers and Baggage to the House. FREE OMNIBUS TO AND FROM THE KAILROAD. 10 J. W. BURKE & CO., MACON, Ga., Have established in this City FIRST-CLASS BOOK STORE, Where they keep on hand and sell as low as possible, FOR CASH ONLY, ALL KINDS OF SCHOOL, raSCELLAlEOUS, RELIGIOUS, JUVENILE, AND SABBATH SCHOOL I^ o o s^ @. FOOLSCAP, LETTER, AliTD NOTE PAPERS; INKS, PENS, AND ALL DESCRIPTIONS OF PLAIN AND FANCY STATIONERY. Photograpli Albums in great Tariety, Card Photographs of Generals, Works of Art, &c. SPECIAL AGENTS EOE SALE OP PUBLICATIONS OP ». APPLETON Jfc CO., New York, I SHELDON & CO., New York, " S. BARNES & CO., « | IVISON, PHINNEY, BLAKEMAN & CO. « They also have an extensive i ami Itl Pf itttlif Iltiii, '* Where all kinds of work can be done. BINDESTG- in every style neatly executed. ^^° Give them a call. WASHING-TOISr BLOCK. S BLANK BOOKS, STATIONERY, 11 H It" O d M CQ o t?d Jr" t^ O !> H b \> H « 13 BOYS' CLOTHS^^C Ef^PORIUM. PARSS, LONDON, A^O NEW YO^IC FASHIONS. 14 L. TT. LYOISrS & CO., ■WHOLESALE DEPARTMENT, 131 and 133 COMMON STREEJO. RETAIL DEPARTMENT, 26, 28 and 30 St. Charles Street, coi^ner Cominon, mm' :I6, FUKlSriSHINa GOODS, Shirts, Trunks, Traveilsreg; Bags, Valises, ■tJ]MBRElL,Ij^S, AV^A.TEE-PJRO OF GOODS, &;c., &c. MA^TJFACTOBY OYEE STOEES. large assortme7it of French, £Jnglis7i, Gennan, and Ameri- can ^iece Goods. I^atest styles, suitable to ilie seasons, always 07i hand. Clothing made to order in the most durable manner and approved styles, with despatch. L. W. LYONS & CO., New Orleans. 15 If. tAnis e#f a. Magazine, between Gravier and Natchez Sts. ^w ^ !>3) a=fimB CHARLES E. SMEDES, Proprietor. It is newly furnished from the kitchen to the roof. Spring Beds, Hair Mat tresses, Linen Sheeting, etc. The Furniture and Table Ware all new, of the lates style and most costly Material. The Table is furnished with every luxury the Market affords. The Bars with Liquors equal to any used in private families, and the com- forts and pleasures of a home, as far as possible, guaranteed to its Guests. The House itself may be said to be entirely new and fresh. The undersigned will sparei neither labor nor expense to merit a continuance of the Uberal support with which he has thus far been honored. CHARIiXIS E. SWOEDIES. 16 fc.Tft>« >. 11>I itit^ee i^x,^"" TJ (S^Qjlwrnhmu. ©t. < HORBACH & KERR, Proprietors. I Broad Street, Corner Crawford Street, COLUMBUS, GA., SHIVERS, WYNNE & CO, Proprietors. This House is centrally located, and the proprietors will spare no paina or ex- pense for the comfort of their guests. SHIVEBS, WYNNE S CO, 17 II W 11 W V II iHf II ^ litis F. Ittlill, r»f ritttr, (Late of Galt House, Louisville, Ky.) CORlSrER of THIRD and VINE STREETS, CinCiS^i^ATI. R. W. CARROLL & CO., 117 West 4th Street, CINCINNATI, PUBLISHEES, BOOKSELLERS & STATIONEES, "WHOLESALE AND EETAIL, KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND THE LARGEST AND BEST ASSORTED STOCK OF OOKS AND STATIONERY, OF EVERY IMAGINABLE KIND, TO BE FOUND IN ANY HOUSE IN THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. By the recent fire at Pike's Opera House Building we lost our entire stock, but \ have purchased an entirely new, fresh, and well-selected one, which we offer at and will always sell on as favorable terms as the market will permit, or as any other 1 house can give. Among the great variety of articles sold by R. W. CARROLL & CO., AEE THE FOLLOWING : SOHOOI. BOOKS OF EYEHY KIMD, USED IIJ THE WEST, Law Books, Medical Books, Scientific Books, Theological Books, Agricultural Books, and all Varieties of Miscellaneous Books, including Histories, IBiographies, Travels, Novels, and Illustrated Works ; Photograph Albums and Cards, Plain and Fancy Letter and Note Paper, Foreign and Domestic Stationery, Foolscap and Flatcap Paper, Gold Pens, Inkstands, Steel and Quill Pens, Lead Pencils, Chess Boards, Cribbage ■Boards, Paper Weights,"' Paper Cutters, Card Cases, Pocket Books, Portfolios, Writing Desks, Pocket Cutlery, Diaries, 3Ieniorandtim,, Scrap, and SlanJc SooJcs, In fact, their stock includes every variety of Books and Stationery, which they invite Dealers to examine before purchasmg, as they are confident they offer the greatest facilities, and can give satisfiiction. R. ^W. CARROLL & CO., 117 West 4th Street, ClrJCg^^NATI. 19 ITHFRI m' THEODOME LAVEILLE, CMAS, P. WABNEB GEO, W. FOBD. WALKEB M. CAMTEM, LAVEILLE, WAENEH & CO., PKOPBIETORS. 20 fW ^A. i %J KM E. JACCARD & CO., WHOLESALE AND RETAIL AJSTD SILVER WARE MANUFACTURERS. DEALERS IN FIITE JEWELRY AITD FAlsTCY G-OODS, PLATED WARE AND CUTLERY. m:ilit^iiy goods. LINE OFFICERS, STAFF, MEDICAL, PAYMASTERS, & GENERAL OFFICERS United States Reguiation SWORDS, BELTS, SABRES, ETC., ETC. GOLD TRIMMINGS, PASSANTS, WEEATHS, BUGLES, BUTTONS, REGIMENTAL PL AGS, ETC., Of aU qualities, constantly on hand. 75 Marble Building, Fourth Street, ST. LOUIS. 21 f BlM©lf H©lil Corner Lake and Dearborn Streets, ^" --" REBUILT AMD REFURMISHED IN 1862. 2he Ija7'gesi, Sesl ^ppoi7ited, and Most Centrally J^ocaied Ftrst- Class Motel in Chicago; HAS ALL THE MODERN IMPROVEMENTS ; NUMESOTJS SUITES OF EOOMS, BATHS, ETC., CONNECTED. GAGM & DRAKE, Proprietors, 22 A. H. MILLER, Southeast Corner of Mandolph and Clark Streets, CH i C AQ O. WATCHES, DIAMONDS, A large assortment OF SILVEK-¥AEE, Constantly on hand AND MADE TO ORDER IN Any Style. Bronze Statuettes, Marble Clocks, FANS, &c. PAT JFi:¥E GOLD JBWBLBY, ~-=- ~-=-~ A fine Selection ■With Choice CliuTcli and Opera MUSIC, OE Made to Order; OPERA GLASSES, Writing Desks, CANES, ■Western Ag-ent for the CelelDrated K, PHILIPPE iscountfrom the Daily Bates on Ticlcets for Twenty and Thirty Bays. The Travelers' Risk Tickets (Sold at Railroad and Steamboat Ticket Offices), cover such Accidents ONLY as may happen TO THE CONVEYANCE by which the Insured may be at the time traveling, and* result in Loss of Life or Personal injury, insuring $15 per week Compensation during Total Disabil- ity, for a period not exceeding 26 weeks, from non-fatal injuries, and $3,000 in the event of death. At Ten cents per Bay ; Discount from the Baily Bates on Tickets for Twenty and Thirty Bays. Registered Short-Time Policies, Sold by Agents of the companies parties to this Consolidation. Insuring against all kiiads of Accidents, Traveling or otherwise., securing $5,000 IN CASE OF DEATH, OR $25 PER WEEK INDEMNITY, During Total Disability, for 26 weeks, from any kind of Accident, without reference to the Time, Place, or Manner of Occurrence, One Day, 25 Cts., Three Days, 75 Cts., Eive Days, $1 25, Ten Days, $2 50. As these policies are consecutively numbered, and the name and residence of the purcha- ser carefully registered and recorded at the Home Office, his rights are guaranteed in case of htal accident, or loss of the Policy. FAS. G. BATTERSON, Pres. GEO. B. WRIGHT, Vice-Pres. HENRY T. SPERRY, Sec, BOARD OF DIRECTORS: JAMES G. BATTERSON, GUSTAVUS P. DAVIS, Hartford, Ct. LEWIS L. HOUPT, JAIMES M. CONRAD, Philadelphia, Pa. CH. H. HASKINS, W. A. BRAWNER, St. Louis, Mo. N. B. VAN SLYKE, SAMUEL D. HASTINGS, Madison, Wis. BENJAMm E. SMITH, GEORGE B. WRIGHT, Columbus, O. H. H. ORMRBEE, ALEXANDER FARNUM, Providence, R. I. A. A. HOWLETT, FRANK HISCOCK, Syracuse, N. Y. JUSTIN SNOW, General Ticket Agent. C. D. PALMER, General Agent. 39 WT ^ Comer Sutter and Montgomery Streets, SAN FRANCISCO. THIS HOUSE IS IN EVEET EESPEOT THE FIRST-CLA^SS HOTEL OF SAN FRANCISCO. Iti« interior is finished with a degree of excellence unsurpassed by any Hotel in th( United States. BATHS ON EVERY FLOOR; IN FACT, A.ILiTj THLK IMIPiiOVEMlKN'TS OF THE A.&K: JOHNSON &c CO., Proprietors. 40 1 J. W. TUCKER & CO., JEWELLERS, MontgoTnery Street, San Francisco, Cal, This houi3e keeps one hundred men employed in the manufacturing of and do all kinds of Lapidary work, such as Cutting and PolisMng Grold-bearing Quartz, and other California Stones and Petrifactions, and mounting the same. Also import all tlieir own Watch Movements direct, and case the same in California Gold. Import and other Precious Stones, from Paris, Amsterdam, and other European Cities. P, S. — ^Keep on hand a large stock of Every thing as guaranteed, or money refunded. 18 41 STEREOSCOPIC "W'lBWS OF M Ma ziwommm A SEEIES OF OYER ONE THOUSAND VIEWS OF THE Most Frominent Points of Interest on tlie Pacific Coast PHOTOGEAPHED AKD PUBLISHED BY LAWRENCE &, HOUSEWOHTH Opticians, ^ 317 and 319 Montgomery St., San Francisco, Catalogues sent to any part of the world, free of postage. W^ ^^ Between Sixth and Seventh Streets, SACRAMENTO. D. E. CALLAHATsT, Proprietor. JR'ree Carriage to and from the Cars and Steamboats . 42 llWiSl tefif raf. SE, HSTo- 113 E^^ST SI:s:TKC ST^tEET, W, P. AWD^EBSOWf Manager, (S^ATAWMA, 11 ig) t*±=flfe^B WILKES BARRE, Ward & Co,, Proprietors. This house for beauty of situation is unsurpassed in this' country, and has a combination of all the modern improve- ments found in city hotels. It is magnificently furnished throughout, and has accommodation for 200 guests. ' Spacious Balconies command a view of the charming Valley of Wyoming, while the Susquehanna glides beneath, and is visible for miles on either side. The Drives and opportunities for Sailing, Rowing, and Fishing are excellent, and the Proprietors will spare nothing in order to make it one of the most delightful, as well as fashionable, places of resort in the country. 43 TO TOURISTS, TRAVELLERS, AND MINERS PACIFIC MAP DEPOT, 51 I Montgomery Street, SAN FRANCISCO. A. G E N S O U l_, MAP PUBLISHEE, BOOKSELLEE, AND STATIONEE. A FULL ASSORTMENT OF in use on this Coast. MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS, STATIONERY, &c. I^UNS, RIFLES, REVOLVERS, DERIKGER PISTOLS IlIPORTEKS iJO) JOBBEES OF AMMUNITION, &c., &c., 2-ro. 262 Sraadicay, J^eiv Yoi'Jc. Sole Agents for " Ballard's" Patent Breech-Loading Sporting and Military Eifles and Carbines, EAGLE ARMS COMP AMY'S PATENT CARTRIDGE REVOLVERS, WHITXET ABMS COMPiM'S COLT'S MODEL REVOLTEES AXD SHOT New York Metallic Ammunition Company's Water-Proof Cartridges, SINGLE-SHOT PISTOLS, &c., &c. 44 Gors f 9'm Gm This popular and well-known Hotel, situated in MEETING STREET corner of HATNE, has been newly furnished throughout, and cannot be excelled by any in the country. WM. WHITE, Proprietor. S. F. STORM, 11 T HOWARD MOTEL, 178 BBOADWAT, NEW YOR K. ZiUtest Style of Gents' JEats and Caps always on hand, and JPfade to Oi^dej' in the Sesi J) fanner. EVEEY DESOEIPTION OF FUES m THEIE SEASON. 45 W¥ MWMH' W®¥f^ fj /um/i^ci/JAiix m .A^lL,:BJ^1^^5r. ^ -m^ mm^AMW |¥ iBpj ilmwJpJJa: W(ft) SARATOGA, OHAS. E. LELAND. 47 WELLS, FARGO & COMPANY, CAPITAL, $10,000,000, ^ Bankers, and General Express Forwarders, TO THE PACIFIC STATES AWD TEBBITOMIES, SOUTH AND CENTRAL A3IEItICA, CMINA AND JAPAN. PROPKIETOES OF THE Great Overland Stage Route, BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS, Carrying the U. S. Mails, Passengers, and Treasure. On SAN FMAJSrCISCO and Intermediate Points, LOWDON, DUBLIN, and I*AMIS, Travellers' Credits on Union Bank of London, unds Transferred by Telegraph, To SAN FRANCISCO, SALT LAKE CITY, &c., LOUIS McLANE, President. 48. ' PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S Througli Line to California, Touching at Mexican Ports, and carrying tlie U. S. Mail, THROTJO-IES I3Sr T^V^^IHSTT-^Z'-T^W'O JD^ATZS. Steamships on the Atlantic Arizona, J Henry i Chauncey, I New York, ■Rising Star, t Ocean Queen, '^ Northern I Light, &c., &c. Connecting on the Pacific with : Golden City, Constitution, Montana, Sacramento, Golden Age, St. Louis, &c., &c. One of the above large and splendid Steamships will leave Pier No. 42 IVorth. Biver, foot of Canal Street, at 12 o'clocis;, noon, on the 1st, llth, and 21st of every month (except when those dates fall on Sunday, and then on the preceding Saturday), for ASPINWALL, connecting, via Panama Eailway, with one of the Company's Steamships from Panama for SAN FKANCISCO, touching at ACAPXTLCO. Those of the 1st touch at MANZANIIiliO. families in Second CaMn and Steerage taken at reduced passage rates. An allowance of onk-quaetek on through rates to clergymen and their families, and school- teachers, going to practise their vocations. One hundred pounds' baggage allowed to each adult. Baggage-Masters accompany haggage through, and attend to ladies and children without male protectors. Baggage received on the dock the day hcfore sailing, from steamboats, railroads, and passengers who prefer to send down early. Departures of 1st and 21st connect with Steamers for SOUTH PACIFIC and CENTRAL AMERICAN PORTS. Departure of llth of each month connects with the New Steam Line from Panama to AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND. Througli. Tickets from New York to any of the ports above named furnished on application. The Company's New Line from San Erancisco to Japan and China, carrying the U. S. Mail, is now in operation. Departure from New York of June 1 1 connects with Steam- ship " COLOKADO," leaving San JFrancisco July 4tll, for ports in Japan and China. ^^ For Passage Tickets, or further Information, apply at the Company's Ticket Office, On the Wharf, Pier 42, North River, foot of Canal St., New York. F. R. BABY, Agent. 49 . KBM H0)Bl Corner East Water and llason Streets, MILWAUKEE, Wisconsin, ||| KIRBY & CHASE, Proprietors. L. PRANG & CO., Fill ilf f liUillli, 159 WASHINGTON STREET, Boston. AMERICAN CHROMOS : ILLUMINATIONS FOR SUNDAY-SCHOOL ROOMS, Sunday-Scliool Cards, Eewards of Merit, Album Cards of Flowers 1LEA.TW:S, MOSSES, SCEI^EISY, Etc., Etc. Catalogues will be sent free by mail. L. PRANG & CO. 50 THE UNITED STATES Ai^P BRAZIL MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPAISTY, XJJSTDER COIvrTE,A.CT "With tlie (jovernments of the United States and Brazil, Will despatch one of their new, first-class steamships, each over 2,000 tons burthen, on the 29th of every month, from the Port of 'Rew York for the following named Ports, and the following rates of passage, payable in coin, or its equivalent in United Slates currency : NEW YOR IC TO ST. THOMAS $80 PARA 150 PERNAMBTJCO 170 Steerage at half these rates ; meals and bedding included. An experienced Surgeon attached to each vessel. All letters must pass through the Post-Office. Postage iO cents. For further information, Freight or Passage, apply to "^ GAEEISOH & ALLEM, Agents, BAHIA $180 mo DE JANEIRO SOO nHITEB STATES MAIL LIME TO HAVANA. The elegant, new Steamships IViORRO CASTLE, EAGLE, and COLUMBIA, Built expressly for the trade, and having most superior accommodations, will con- tinue to run regularly to HAVANA, sailing from Pier 4 North River, every WED- NESDAY, at 3 o'clock y. ^^ Returning, leave Havana every SATURDAY. For further information. Freight or Passage, apply to GAMBISOW S ALLEWy Agents, No. 5 BOWLING- GREEN, NEW YORK. k illSllf H©1SI UNION SQUARE W. B. BOMJROWS. '55^ Wp^rts, il B The undersigned, for many years proprietor of the I Bellevue and Fillmore Houses, will open the (late U. S. Naval Academy) on the 27th May. Its location J is the finest in Newport, on the crest of " The Hill," fronting west on Bellevue Avenue, and north on Touro Park, and central to the attractions of this fashionable resort. IT IS HEATED BY STEAM, and will thus insure the comfort of its Guests in the cool mornings and evenings of the Spring and Autumn. WM, W. HAZARD, JProprietor, i^Hi@S H@Wi ijOnsra- Eit-^isrcii, nsr. j-_. C. A. STETSON" & CO. 'mat H@' IS i