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SKETCHES 
 
 OF 
 
 COITmEjN'TlL EUROPE 
 
 AND 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN, 
 
 BY W. W. HE WELL, D. D. 
 
 8 YE AC USE: 
 
 .). G. K. TKUAIR A- (M.1., STERKOTYPE118 ANJ) PiilNTKKfc. 
 
 1859. 
 
<" 
 
 
 
 \5 
 
y>5 
 
 M%m Mmpxtut §tmxiH^ 
 
 OF 
 
 Scenes Witnessed and Pleasukes Enjoyed, 
 
 AEE MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, 
 BY THE AUTHOE. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 
 1859, by 
 
 W. W. NEWELL, 
 In the Clerk'a Office of the Dstrict Court lor the Dis- 
 trict of Northern New York. , 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 SKETCH No, 1. 
 
 'Liverpool, London, 3 — The Queen, Prince Albert, Duke 
 De Malakoflf, 4— Earl of Shaftsbury, 5— Exeter Hall, 
 House of Lords, 6 — Discussion on Liturgy, 7. 
 
 SKETCH No. 2. 
 
 London, The Channel, Boulogne, 9 — Paris, Colonne 
 Vendome, 10 — American Chapel, 11 — L'Empereur 
 Empress and Son, 12— Tragedy, Police, 13— Yersail- 
 les, Queen of Holland, 14. 
 
 SKETCH No. 3. 
 
 &t. Cloud, Massacre of St. Bartholomew, 16— Napoleon 
 and Wellington, 17 — Hotel Des Invalides, Pere La 
 Chaise, 18 — Louis Phillipe, Duchess of Orleans, 19— 
 Lyons, 20— Avignon, Mar&eilles, Mediterranean, 21— 
 Napoleon, Italy, 22. 
 
 -SKETCH No. 4. 
 
 Naples, Landing, 24— Villa Eeale, 25— The People, The 
 'King, 26 — Camaldoli Convent, 27 — Museum, Pompeii, 
 28— Baiae, Charon, Yirgil, St. Paul, 29. 
 
 SKETCH -Mo. 5. 
 "Yesuvius, Its Outlets, 31— The Mountain, The Ascent 
 32— The Crater, 33— The Explosion, 34— The De- 
 scent, 35, 
 
 SKETCH No. 6. 
 The Eruption of Yesuvius, 37— The Lost, 38— Our Com- 
 i panions, 39— The Storm, 40— Journey to Rome 41. 
 
IV 
 
 SKETCH No. 7. 
 Home, Coliseum, 43— Lost, Bambino, 4o— reBtival, 
 Pope, American Service, 46--Artists, 47. 
 
 SKETCH No. 8. 
 Rome of the Consuls, Coliseum, 48— Arches of Titus and 
 Constantino, Palace of the Ctesars, 49 — Roman Fo- 
 rum, Capitol, 50 — Tarpeian Rock, Rome of the Popes, 
 Tiber, Castle of St. Angelo, 51— St. Peter's, 52— Dome, 
 53— The View, 54, 
 
 SKETCH No. 9. 
 Rome, Revolution of 1849, Vatican, 55— Mosaics, Sis- 
 tine Chapel, Pope, 56 — The Pope's Palaces and 
 Grounds, 58— The Surprise, Rome of Foreigners, 59 — 
 The Torso, The French, Nunnery and Academy of 
 Arts, 60— Pincian Hill, Music, View, Blight, 61. 
 
 SKETCH No. 10. 
 Rome, Sketches, 62— The News, Cardinal Antonelli, 63 
 —The Poor Noble, 64— The Old Appian Way, 65— 
 Baths, Tombs, 66— Fountain, Circus, Tomb of C. Me- 
 tella, St. Paul's Church, 67— Pyramid, English Cem- 
 etery, Horatins Codes, Temple of Vesta, 68. 
 
 SKETCH No. 11. 
 Rome, Friends, Catacombs, 69 — Pantheon, Raphael, 
 Pilate's Stairway, 71 — Luther, 72 — Catholicism at 
 Rome, 73~Story of an American Ambassador, 74. 
 
 SKETCH No. 12. 
 
 Leaving Rome, Paoli, Oampagna, 76 — Civita Vecchia, 
 77 — The Prince and Princess Doria, Gasperoni, 78 — 
 Leghorn, 79— Pisa, The Cathedral, The Baptistry, 
 The Campe Santo, 80— The Leaning Tower, 81 -Gal- 
 ileo, The View, 82. 
 
SKETCH No. 13. 
 
 Florence, 63— The Arno, Fiesole, 84— The View, The 
 Valley of the Arno, Freedom and Eeligion in Tusca- 
 ny, 85— The Madlai, 86— A Great Work, The Pope 
 and the Duke, 87— Story of Lord Normanby, The 
 People, 88. 
 
 SKETCH No. 14. 
 
 Florence, The Uffizii, The Pitti Palace, The Boboli 
 Gardens, 89— Cathedra], Baptistry and Bell Tower, 
 Santa Croce, 90— Alfleri, Michael Angelo, 91 — Dante, 
 92— Drire down the Casine, 93. 
 
 SKETCH No. 15. 
 
 Diligence, Apennines, Bologna, 96 — Guido, The Napo - 
 leon Family, 97— Modena, The Po, Mantua,' Tasso, 
 Virgil, 98— Dr. Crichton, Apostrophy to Venice, 99 — 
 Our Landing, 100— A Brilliant Surprise, 101— Histo- 
 ry, 102. 
 
 SKETCH No. 16. 
 
 Venice, Description, History, 103— St. Mark's, Ducal 
 Palace, Chamber of the Ten, 104— State Dungeons, 
 Bridge of Sighs, The Doves, 105— A Day in the Gon- 
 dola, Titian, Canova, 106— Story of Foscari, 107— The 
 Quarrel, Othello, Byron, Eialto, Shakspeare, Shy- 
 lock, 108— Armenian Convent, Sunset upon the Ad- 
 riatic, 109. 
 
 SKETCH No. 17. 
 Milan, Wheel Way, History, 111— Splendor of the Cath- 
 edral, H2— Napoleon, Josephine, Charles, Borromeo, 
 113— Last Supper, Arch of Peace, 114— Ferdinand I, 
 Bonaparte, Austria, Liberty in Italy, 116 — Como, 
 Ballageo, 116— Sunset on Lake Como, 117. 
 
VI 
 
 SKETCH No. 18. 
 Turin, The Koute from Venice, Padua, Galileo, 118— 
 Verona, Brescia, Novara, Battle of 1849, 119— Story 
 of the King of Sardinia, The Struggle, 120— Protest- 
 ant Church, 12l--Count Cavour, Convents, 122— 
 Foundling Establishments, Prosperity of Turin, 123, 
 
 SKETCH No, 19. 
 The Waldenses, La Tour, History, 125— Cromwell, 
 Louis XIY, Henri Arnaud, 126— Dr. Eevel, Gen, 
 Becfcwith, Ancient Condition, 127— The Miraculous 
 Change of Ten Tears, 128— Bonaparte, Carlo Alberto, 
 Pinerolo, The Church. 180. 
 
 SKETCH No, 20. 
 The Yale of Chamouni, Mount Blanc, 132— Mer de 
 Glace, Description, 133— The Mountain Cathedral, 
 134— Vesuvius, Sunset on Mount Blan«, 135 — The 
 Alps, Mount Cenis, 136 
 
 SKETCH No. 21. 
 
 Geneva, Letters, Dr. Merle, D. Aubigne, 188— Dr. Ma- 
 Ian, Cathedral, 139 — Evangelical Society, 140 — Dr. 
 Monod, American Revival, Re-union, Fairy Scene, 
 141— State Church, Mr. Le Fort, Calvin, 142— Prin- 
 cess Helena, 4th of July, Geneva Flourishing, 148, 
 
 SKETCH No. 22. 
 
 Farewell to Geneva, Lake Geneva, Dr. Revel, 145— 
 Story of a Young Priest, Villages, 146— Distinguish- 
 ed Persons, Lausanne, Gibbon, Agassiz, Duke of 
 Reichstadt, Berne, Zurich^ Zwingle, 147— Bale^ The 
 Rhine, Freyburg, Strasburg, 148— Cathedral, Amus- 
 ing Clock, 149— St. Thomas' Church, Grand Duke 
 and Duchess of Baden, Baden Baden, 150. 
 
VII 
 
 SKETCH No. 23. 
 Carlsruhe, Heidleberg, 152 — Cathedral, the Castle,, 
 Story of Elizabeth, 153— The Tun, Yalley of the Neck- 
 ar, Manheim, "Worms, 154— Diet, Luther, 155— May- 
 ence, Guttemberg, Frankfort, 166— Goethe, Eoths- 
 childs, 157— The Rhine, 158— Cologne, 159. 
 
 SKETCH No. 24. 
 The Meeting, 160— Holland, History, Utrecht, 161— Am- 
 aterdam, The Sabbath 162— The Palace, Kembrandt, 
 Customs, 163— Haarlem, Organ, tiake, Leiden, His- 
 tory, 164— Puritans, Hague, Louis Bonaparte, The 
 King and Queen, The Son, Delft, 165— Eotterdam* 
 Erasmus, Delft Haven, Our Pilgrim Fathers, 166. 
 
 SKETCH No. 25. 
 Belgium, The Last Fifty Years, 168— Separates from^ 
 Holland, King Leopold, 169— The Eldest Son, Pro- 
 testant Movement, ITO— Dort, G rotius, 171— Antwerp, 
 History, Rubens, 178— The Horrible Grotto, Mechlin,. 
 Brussels, 173— Waterloo, 174. 
 
 SKETCH No. 26. 
 T9ie Leaviing, 17T— The Sea, The Thames, London, 178— 
 Tke Streets, Old Home, 179— Yastness, Parks, ISO-* 
 House of Parliament, British Museum, 181— Tower^. 
 182— Westminister Abbey, 188. 
 
 SKETCH No. 2f. 
 Spurgeon, 184— Molyneaux, 185— Dr. Cumming, 186— 
 Stories, Dickens, Cobbett, 187— Up the Thames, Crys- 
 tal Palace; 188— Windsor, George III, Oxford, 189. 
 
 SKETCH No. 28. 
 Warwick Castle, 191— Stratford on the Avon, Kenil= 
 worth Castle, 192— History, Birmingham, Rev. John 
 Angel James, 193— York, Minster, Newcastle, Ber- 
 wick, 194— Kelso, M. L. Duncan, Melrose Abbey, Ab«^ 
 botsford, 195— Sir Walter Scott, 196. 
 
VUl 
 
 SKETCH No. 29. 
 
 Glens and Castles, Edinburg, 198— Free Churcli of 
 Scotland, 200— History, Dr. Caudlish,202— Dr. Guth- 
 rie, 203— Chalmers, Hugh Miller, Dickinson, 204. 
 
 SKETCH No. 80. 
 Frith of Forth, Sterling, Castle, Wallace, 205— Bau- 
 nockburn, Peter Drummond, The Highlands, 206 — 
 The Trossacks, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond, 207 — 
 Ben Lomond, Glasgow, Mr. Caird, 208 — Cathedral, 
 Knox, Cemetery, Henderson, 209— Burns, Monument, 
 History, Gretna Green, 210 — Ambleside, The Poets, 
 ;^dal Mount, Wordsworth, Farewell, 211. 
 
 SKETCH No. 81. 
 The Sea, Hero of Kars, History, 213— -The Passage, The 
 Storm, 215— The Fog, 216— Halifax, Illumination, 
 217— Boston, Home, Greeting, 218. 
 
 HOW TO TEAVEL ABEOAD. 
 The Eoute, The Amount of Time, The Season of the 
 Year, 220— Expsnses, 221— The Way to Economise, 
 222— The Arrangement of Funds. Passports, 228 — 
 Baggage, Custom Houses, Languages, 224 — Letters 
 of Introduction, Letters from Home, The Adieu, 225, 
 
Contkentd 
 
 NO. I. 
 
 London, May T, 1858. 
 
 Dear Friends: — I sit down amid a whirl 
 of sight seeing and sound hearing, to send 
 you a word of London gossip. 
 
 We sailed from Boston for Liverpool on 
 the 21st of last month, in the Eoyal Mail 
 Steamship America. After a rough passage 
 ■of twelve days, we stepped upon the soil of 
 Old England with wonderful enthusiasm.— 
 How much of this joy arose from escaping 
 the horrors of the sea, I will not say. Our 
 ride from Liverpool to London was a succes- 
 sion ot delightful surprises. Such verdure 
 and cultivation, such works of beauty, such 
 hedges, lawns, cottages anl castles. It 
 seemed like fairy land. In London pr@per^ 
 every stone is a relic, and every house is a 
 history. We found ourselves at night in an 
 old aristocratic mansion built by Earl Q-rby, 
 in the time of James IT. Our windo^vs 
 
opened upon the Thames. At night every 
 describable craft was dancing over the waves 
 amid the playing moon-beams, and the Lon- 
 don Bridges gleamed forth in one blaze of 
 gas light. 1 closed my eyes to wander in a 
 maze of clanking chains, vizored knights and 
 harshly grating doors, in London Tower. 
 
 At our first breakfast it was said, "The 
 Queen holds her drawing room to-day, you 
 must be sure and see her." 
 
 So we commenced our siofht seeing in 
 London with a view of the Queen, her Koy- 
 al Gonsortj her Nobles and foreign Embas- 
 sadors, accompanied by their ladies. 
 
 It was a gorgeous display. Frmce Al- 
 bert and the Queen appeared much hke their 
 portraits, good looking, good natured and 
 happy. She is the plainest of the two, but 
 seems to be wonderfully esteemed as a wife, 
 mother and sovereign. We were told that 
 she rose at six, breakfasted early, attended 
 to her children, and spent much time in the 
 open air. After the fatigues of the drawing 
 room she took a long drive to Eichmond, the 
 residence of the Prince of Wales, and ac- 
 cording to the next morning papers, was at 
 the opera the same evening. 
 • The most brilliant equipage in this grand 
 
display, belonged to the French Ambassador^ 
 the Duke de Malakoff, formerly Marshal 
 Pellissier. He is indeed a fine specimen of 
 the ^'old soldier," but it is sad to see a man 
 who has devoted brilliant talents, mighty 
 energies and a long life to the study and 
 practice of war. 
 
 It is sadder yet, to see the eclat which a 
 warrior can earn in this noon of the 19th cen- 
 tury. For since the death of Havelook, the 
 Duke de Malakoff is undoubtedly the most 
 popular man in Western Europe. 
 
 Having a kind and characteristic letter 
 from Br. Cox to the Earl of Shaftsbury, I 
 called at his house on Wednesday morning , 
 at 10 o'clock. He was engaged at his family 
 devotions. As he is just now entering into 
 a combination to overthrow the present 
 Ministry, as he is presiding at many of the 
 meetings at Exeter Hall, and as five men were 
 at the moment in waiting, I was in doubt as 
 to my reception. Soon, however, my name 
 was announced. I entered his plain apart- 
 ment, and found him one of the most genial, 
 earnest, delightful men in the world. He 
 spoke warmly of the great awakening in 
 America. He said if but one thousand of 
 the converts reported, should hold on their 
 
courge, it would be a wonderful work. He 
 then spoke of the changes and restless en- 
 terpises even of old England, and said: "If 
 the world continues at this rate, it must wear 
 out in 20 years." He gave me a note that 
 secured my admittance to Exeter Hall. 
 
 At the meeting of the Bible Society, 3000 
 persoas left the Hall for the want of room. — 
 By his appointment, we met the Earl at the 
 House of Lords. He introdiiiced the ladies to 
 a seat, but the gentlemen must stand. In 
 this most magnificent of all modern buildings, 
 the accomodations for strangers is absolutely 
 shabby. But the discussion was so intensely 
 interesting that we forgot our weariness and 
 remained during the entire session. 
 
 Lord Ebury, a low church man, proposed 
 ia commission for an alteration of the Liturgy 
 of the church of England. 
 
 The expectation of this discussion, brought 
 out the Bishops in full array. 
 
 Lord Ebury undertook to show : 1st, 
 That an alteration was desired. 2d, That it 
 was desirable. 3d, That such a change was 
 constitutional. He created an evident sen- 
 sation among the Bishops present, by repeat- 
 ing opinions which they had, on certain oc- 
 casions, uttered in favor of some change. 
 
He said that 4000 clergymen had petition- 
 ed for some change. 
 
 That on some occasions the service wa& 
 too long, inappropriate and repetitions. 
 
 That three services were sometimes crowd- 
 ed into one. 
 
 That this wearied the attention of the cler- 
 gymen, jadea the attention of the wor- 
 shippers and led to formality in prayer. 
 
 He referred to the advantageous change ivt 
 the American edition. 
 
 He called it an old production that needed 
 amendment, and finally ventured the asser- 
 tion that if any man should make such a Lit- 
 urgy now, he would be considered deranged. 
 
 The Archbi?hop of Canterbury said in re- 
 ply that by taking the course proposed, an 
 apple of discord would be thrown into the- 
 church, the end of which it would be difficult 
 to foresee. 
 
 The Bishop of St. David's admitted that 
 the Liturgy was uninspired andimperfeot^ but 
 he did not believe the measure proposed 
 would secure the expected result. 
 
 Earl Grey thought the Liturgy stood high- 
 ly in need of revision, and deeply regretted 
 that men could not come to a common un- 
 derstanding in resp 3ot to it. 
 
8 
 
 The Prime Minister, Earl of Derby, admit- 
 ted that there were blemishes of expression 
 in the beautiful Liturgy, but that any attempt 
 to alter it would greatly shake the confidence 
 of the public in its merits. 
 
 Earl Granville thought the arguments of 
 Lord Ebury had not been answered, but at his 
 suggestion the proposition for a commission 
 was withdrawn.* 
 
 Thus we heard the finest orators in the 
 House of Lords, upon a most interesting oc- 
 casion. Lord Brougham was absent. Ma- 
 OAULEY was present, but was said to be suf- 
 fering from disease of the heart. 
 
 Very Truly, Yours, W* W. N. 
 
 * At a subsequent meeting of the House of Lords, it 
 'vras agreed that the portion of Liturgy referring to Guy 
 Fauk and Charles I, ought to be expunged. 
 
no. Ti, 
 
 Paeis, May 15, 1858. 
 Dear Friends : — "We left London with 
 deep regret. Every day was filled with fresh 
 wonders. But fearing the heat of Naples 
 and the miasma of Rome, we^ left our heavy 
 baggage in our new hame and hastened 
 away. 
 
 To reach the Depot, we were obliged to 
 pass Temple Bar, St. PauPs Cathedral, Lon- 
 don Bridge, and the most crowded portions 
 of the old city. In Cheapside the vast pro- 
 cession stopped, and the pole of a heavy om- 
 nibus crushed through our carriage from be- 
 hind. By the united verdict of the gathered 
 throng, our escape from harm was miracu- 
 lous. 
 
 We took the cars for Folkstone, an old 
 harbor town, in sight of Dover. The channel 
 was rough, and the boat was small. The stout- 
 est passengers were ill ; but, thanks to our 
 '^ocean Ufe," we braved the waves like vete- 
 ran sailors. 
 
 The first sight that attracted our attention^ 
 an Hearing the coast of France, near Bou« 
 
10 
 
 logne, was a colossal statue of Napoleon. It 
 stands upon a column 164 feet high. It was 
 erected in 1805, by an army of 200,000 men 
 that Bonaparte drew to this spot, for the 
 purpose of invading England. There it stands 
 in solitary grandeur, upon that bold, bleak 
 hill, and there it will stand for ages to come, 
 gazing out upon the boisterous straits and 
 chalky hills of Old England. 
 
 We stopped at Boulogne to view the nov- 
 elties of the first French town, and the won- 
 ders of these stupendous defenses. The 
 streets, houses, carriages and costumes were 
 all strange and disagreeable. 
 
 The wide beach was covered with bathing- 
 houses, built on wheels, and drawn into the 
 water by horses. The 'fish market. was kept 
 by women in the open sun. The fish were 
 brought in baskets and thrown down upon a 
 common pavement, on a wide sidewalk. — 
 Women were bearing burdens upon their 
 heads and driving goats and donkies.. On 
 our way to Paris we saw them watching, as 
 sentinels, on the Railroad, and laboring as 
 men in the fields. Woman's sphere thus en- 
 larged, is in the direction of barbarism. 
 
 Our Hotel, in this city, is in the rue de la 
 Paix, close by the Colonne Yendome. This 
 column is 135 feet high. The pedestal and 
 
11 
 
 shaft are covered with bronze bas-reliefs, 
 cast from 1200 pieces of Kussian and Austrian 
 cannon. The bas-reUefs lepresent the vic^ 
 tories of IsTapoleoNj from Boulogne to the 
 battle ot Austerlitz. The whole is surmount- 
 ed by a statue of the Emperor in military 
 costume. On the recent anniversary of Na- 
 poleon's death, his old companions in arms 
 turned out in procession. Eor him every 
 man of them had risked his life. 
 
 With him, either in Egypt, Syria, or Con- 
 tinental Europe, every one of them had met 
 the fatigues of war, the rigors of climate, or 
 the shocks of battle. And now their love 
 for hirn was most affecting. With tottering 
 steps and grey hairs and wrinkled faces and 
 -streaming tears, they all gathered around 
 this cherished column, and each one hung 
 his Pere La Chaise, or wreath of immortals, 
 upon the railing or the eagles. And not a 
 man can be found in Paris vile enough to 
 disturb these affecting souvenirs. 
 
 On reaching this city our first inquiry was 
 for the American Chapel and the Eev. Mr 
 Seely. We found the chapel had been ded- 
 icated on the previous Sabbath. The Pro- 
 testant clergy of the city gave it an earnest 
 welcome into their littler circle of churches. 
 It is a very pleasant building. Though dis^ 
 
12 
 
 tant from the centre, it is finely located near 
 the Triumphal Arch. It is thought that the 
 slips will be mostl}'^ occupied. All our 
 friends speak very kindly of Mr. Seely and 
 his accomphshed family. May Grod crown 
 the enterprise with the richest prosperity. 
 
 Our minister, Mr. Mason, and several gen- 
 tlemen of distinction, were in attendance on 
 Sabbath morning. 
 
 In going from our Hotel to the Chapel we 
 necessarily passed up the Champs Elysees. — 
 In the afternoon the sidewalks were lull, 
 and that immense street, from Place de la 
 Concorde to the Triumphal Arch, was liter- 
 ally crowded with carriages. To support 
 one of these establishments, it is snid there 
 are Parisians who subsist on scanty food, and 
 live in a garret. 
 
 Suddenly there was a rush from the side- 
 walk toward the street, and a cry of ^'L'Eni- 
 pereur 1" and sure enough there he was driv- 
 ing at full speed, with an escort of horsemen 
 before and behind. On our return from 
 church they passed us again, on their way 
 home. "We see the Empress and her son 
 almost daily. 
 
 In appearance, she is extremely beautiful 
 and accomplished. But we never see her 
 out in company with the Emperor. Indeed, 
 
18 
 
 since the attempt on his life, in Janurary, he 
 is rarely out at all. I went round the other 
 evening to the opera house, to see the trag- 
 ical spot. Horsemen were stationed in the 
 centre of the Boulevards. The aveuue to the 
 building was cleared by an immense guard. 
 On turning the corner, I supposed the build- 
 ing was on fire. It was covered with lights, 
 while from the porlico, gasjets streamed forth 
 like sheets of hre. The whole street was as 
 light as day. Directly the Emperor, ac- 
 companied by his royal visitors, and a troop 
 of horse, dashed up the avenue, and disap- 
 peared. He can never forget that spot. — 
 Here his carriage was blown up, one of the 
 horses was destroyed, great numbers were 
 killed, and many more have since died of their 
 wounds. The escape ot the Emperor apd 
 Empress seemed to be miraculous ; and there 
 are liberty-loving men in Paris, who thank 
 G-od for his deliverance, believing that his 
 death at this time, would be a crushing ca- 
 lamity to the nation. 
 
 The energy and knowledge of the Police 
 of Paris are astonishing. On the night ©f this 
 tragedy, the conspirators all escaped ; one of 
 them was wounded while holding a bomb in 
 his hand. He covered it with his handker- 
 chief, laid it in a back alley, and reached his 
 
14 
 
 lodgings. The next morning they were all 
 in prison. Since that event, the espionage 
 of Paris has been complete. 
 
 We supposed our own movements known 
 only to ourselves and a few private friends. 
 But much to our surprise we have received 
 a note from the Minister of State, proffering 
 to us some peculiar privileges. 
 
 "We find that our name, profession and 
 aims in traveling, are perfectly understood; 
 and that when we leave the court of our 
 Hotel, the eyes of the Police are upon us, 
 until our return. 
 
 Yesterday we. spent at Versailles. Taking 
 the early train, we were there in season for 
 breakfast. 
 
 You can imagine the weariness ol our 
 day's work, when you remember that in this 
 old Palace of Louis XIV, there are six miles 
 of statues and paintings. 
 
 But we were most interested in moving 
 pictures. For upon oiie of the ground stair- 
 ways, we met the Empress Eugenie and the 
 Queen of Holland face to face. They were 
 engaged in spirited conversation and were 
 accompanied by about twenty attendants. 
 
 Aa we stopped at the same Hotel, our la- 
 dies, who are fond of playing the Sovereign, 
 
15 
 
 seated tEemselves for a moment in the Koyal 
 carriage. 
 
 In the Palace grounds there are vases, stat- 
 ues, fountains, lakes, flowers, shrubs, trees, 
 lawns, groves, canals, . triumphal arches, and 
 miles of the smoothest walks. But what de- 
 lighted us most of all were the grand and lit- 
 tle Trianon. These gems of houses were in 
 a retreat so seciuded that we were hours in 
 finding them. The stately Palace is deserted 
 for these hidden buildings of a single story. 
 Thus the magnificence of Royalty sighs for 
 the quiet of private life. Yictokia has her 
 Balmoral; G-eorge lYth had his wooded 
 nest ; Louis Phillippe had his Neuilly ; Jo- 
 sephine her Malmaison ; Louis XIY his Tria- 
 non. 
 
 Yery truly, your friend, W. W. If « 
 
NO. 111. 
 
 Mediteekanean Sea, off Gaeta, May 20, t85S, 
 1)ear Friends — My last sketch was closed 
 at Yersailles. St. Cloud is two leagues from 
 Paris, upon the same road. 
 
 Instead of the stately, deserted halls of 
 liouis XIY, we found, at St. Cloud, all the 
 ^ "comfort and elegance of a delightful home. — 
 '^T-here is great variety in the grounds* There 
 ' are very extensive water-falls, and upon the 
 ' summit of a high hill, Bo^naparte erected an 
 , Atheniaa Tower, called "The Lantern of 
 Diogenes." From this spot, is a most mag- 
 nificent view of Paris, over the valley of the 
 Seine and the woods of Boulogne. Ko won- 
 ' der it is,-and has been, such a favorite resort. 
 ' 'But it is no part of my plan to sketch Parks 
 and Palaces. I must pass by "Notre Dame," 
 the "Jardin des Plantes," the "Palais De 
 L'Industrie," and a host of such interesting 
 places, while I simply refer to seve; al spots 
 to which I was chained, by their tragic as- 
 sociations. 
 
 I stood in that room of the Louvre where 
 
 Charles IX gave orders to commence the 
 
 'Massacre of St. Bartholomew, on the 24th of 
 
1^ 
 
 August, 1572. It was not his voluntary act. 
 He hesitated. The cold sweat ran down his 
 face. ^' Are you a coward ?" cried his fiend- 
 like mother, ^'Well then, begin," cried 
 Charles. 
 
 It was after midnight. In silence they 
 gazed out itito the darkness. The old church 
 of St. G-ermain stood opposite. The great 
 bell struck. The firing began. ''Stop!" 
 cried the youthful Charles. But it was too 
 late. Other bells tolled out the fearful signal, 
 and Catholic France rushed to the butchery. 
 Charles himself seized his gun and hurried 
 on the work of blood, till near 100.000 Pro- 
 testants lay weltering in their gore. As I 
 looked out upon that same old church, and 
 heard that same old bell, I almost shuddered. 
 
 Close by this. room, in the Louvre stands 
 a little camp bed, that was used by Napol- 
 'EON in his wars. As I stood e-azing upon it 
 an Englishman near by exclaimed, **What a 
 simple, narrcs^ thing. It is just like Wel- 
 iiiNGTONs. When he was asked how he 
 could t\irn upon it, he said, 'When it is time 
 to turn overj it is time to turn out.' " This 
 sentence revealed a history. 
 
 It was not merely the great talents of these 
 men that gave them suecess, but it was their 
 industry, self-denial, persistence, and wise 
 
18 
 
 adaptation of means to the end. And wbenj 
 as christian men, we imitate these traits in 
 their characters, traces of our influence will be 
 left, not merely on canvass and in stone, but 
 upon the hearts and souls of men, to be borne 
 forever. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalided must not be omit- 
 ted. It is an immense building, surmounted 
 by a magnificent dome. It contains the tomb 
 of Bonaparte, a mihtary church, and about 
 3,300 old soldiers. It was most affecting to 
 see some of these old companions of the Em- 
 peror watching over his sacred dust. Here 
 they show the relics and tell the tales of for- 
 mer days. As it was a festival day, we join- 
 ed in the worship of these hoary-headed sol- 
 diers, with a strange and melancholy pleas - 
 are. 
 
 We were greatly attracted by the beauty of 
 Pere La Chaise. This is the burial place ot 
 the aristocracy. It is crowded with monu- 
 ments and covered with walks, flowers and 
 trees. From the top of the hill the view is 
 charming. Here are philosophers, statesmen, 
 marshalls and princes. Here are Lafatette 
 and Marshall Net. No monument marks 
 the grave of Nsy, but a profusion of flowers, 
 wreaths and foliage show that he is fresh in 
 the haarts of the people. 
 
19 
 
 On our way into the city we passed the 
 site of the old Bastile. In the place of this 
 old feudal prison now stands the column oi 
 July. This column is 164 feet high and is 
 surmounted by the genius of Liberty. It is 
 to commemorate the Kevolution of 1830, and 
 the corner-stone vras laid by Louis Phillibe, 
 Upon the pedestal are 615 names of martyrs 
 of liberty. The martyrs who overthrew the 
 throne of this same Louis Phillipe in '48^ 
 are also gathered here. 
 
 The fall of Louis Phillipe was the result 
 ot his own madness. He would not learn.—* 
 With the force of arms he resists the right of 
 public meeting and free discussion. A mighty 
 people rise in their majesty, and he is swept 
 from the throne. I sought out the avenue 
 by which he escaped from the Tuilleries. One 
 day' he is the proudest and richest monarch in 
 continental Europe ; he wields a sceptre stud- 
 ded with diamonds ; he speaks, and millions 
 do him homage. Another day and we see 
 him rushing along this pathway, escaping for 
 his hfe. While he is fleeing the widow of 
 bis eldest son, the Duchess of Orleans, goes 
 on foot, from the Tuilleries to the Legislative 
 Hall, with her two sons, the Count of Paris 
 and the Duke of Chartres. While standing. 
 in this Hall, I seemed to see the excited,^ 
 
20 
 
 throng. M. Dupin moves that the Count of 
 Paris be proclaimed King, under the regency 
 of his mother. A voice from the gallery- 
 cries, "It is too late I" Lamartine and others 
 oppose. Ledru Rollin declares that the peo- 
 ple must decide. Armed men are now rush- 
 ing into the Hall, and the Duchess and her 
 sons, v^ath great difficulty, escape. And thus, 
 in one day, the last vestige of this wonderful 
 family is swept from the throne and the soil 
 of France. 
 
 We left Paris for the south on Saturday 
 morning. We found Lyons the second city 
 in France- It contains 200,000 people. The 
 old town is hideous. Some parts of the 
 stone built city are charming. We climbed 
 the hill Fourviere, that hangs over the town 
 630 feet high. In the ha::y distance were 
 the Alps. At our feet the rivers Rhone and 
 Saone glided through the town. Here the 
 sunny stream and the "Alpine flood" unite 
 their waters. Here Polyoarp toiled and 
 preached and died for Christ, and 1,900 
 christians, }a the 2d century, suffered mar- 
 tyrdom at cae time, under Septimus Severus. 
 The country around Lyons is rich, cultivated 
 and beautiful. As we passed down the 
 banks of the Rhone, we were constantly re- 
 minded of the banks of the Hudson. 
 
21 
 
 At Avignon, while dreaming over the 
 dungeons of the Inquisition and dreading 
 the gloom of Italy, I was addressed in a 
 familiar tongue. It was a cordial to my 
 soul. I found that three most agreeable 
 gentlemen from New York and Philadelphia, 
 were to be our companions to Naples. 
 
 Marseilles, the third city in France is a 
 busy, disagreeable place. Not only the 
 town, but its long narrow harbor, seemed 
 crowded to suffocation. But even here tha 
 children found one thing very agreeable — the 
 streets were filled .with the finest oranges, 
 eheaper than bread. 
 
 Having had a rough and tedious voyage- 
 across the Atlantic, we all dreaded our ex- 
 . cursion upon the Mediterranean. To avoid 
 being out on the S-abbath we took thia 
 French steamer from Marseilles to Naples. — 
 We pushed out of the harbor in the evening^,, 
 thinking of fogs and collisions, of storms and- 
 sea sickness. But of all sea voyages, this 
 proved the most agreeable. The moon came 
 out delightfully, and neither clouds, winds^. 
 or waves disturbed our progress. 
 
 All this is the good providence of G-od. — 
 In this connection we cannot but remember 
 the self denying efforts we have made to^ 
 
keep the Sabbath, and we conclude it is safe 
 to obey Qod. 
 
 On our first morning out we discovered 
 Corsica. We sailed along by its snow- cov- 
 ered hills, poetizing about the birth and boy- 
 hood of the great hero who seemed to meet 
 us everywhere. 
 
 We have traveled more than 800 miles 
 through the kingdom of France and every 
 where from Boulogne to Marseilles we saw 
 statues, paintings, engravings, traces and 
 memorials of this same one man. And here 
 we meet him on the sea. Next came Elba, 
 but soon the dim shadows of the night ap- 
 propriately shrouded from our view its som- 
 bre outlines. Amid these dim shadows we 
 and our agreeable friends sung, in minor 
 keys, the songs of our childhood. This 
 arweet harmony fed our sentimentalism and 
 quickened our dreams. 
 
 But here comes Italy. Italy I The fairy 
 land of the young scholar's dream. The bay 
 6f Naples I The gorgeous morning sun is 
 shining upon the almost circular city upon 
 the left. The beautful Island of Capri is on 
 our right, and the towering, majestic, ever- 
 smoking Vesuvius is directly before us. We 
 have reached the Southern Hmit of our tour, 
 and in this one magnificent view we are 
 
23 
 
 abundantly repaid for all its toil and sorrow 
 
 ^nd expense. 
 
 Yery truly yours, 
 
 W. W. N. 
 
NO. IV. 
 
 Naples, May 25, 1868. 
 
 Dear Friends: — I must describe to you 
 K)ur landing in this new kingdom. With 
 Bome variety, it is said to be the ordeal we 
 must pass m every petty dominion. Our 
 steamer anchored in the bay of Naples. In 
 the confusion of landing, we lost sight of our 
 friends. There are said to be halt a miUion 
 of people in this city. Nearly half that 
 number seemed to be thronging the mole. — 
 We were surrounded by a sea of boats. The 
 boatmen, in unknown dialect, were vocifer- 
 ating to each other and clamoring for our 
 baggage. 
 
 We entered one of these boats and suc- 
 ^ceeded in reachmg the pier. In this crowd we 
 were obliged to leave our trunks while we 
 were marched off, by officials, to the govern- 
 ment station, there to answer to our name, 
 age and profession, according to the passport 
 system of the kingdom. 
 
 On regaining our baggage a host of men- 
 ials rushed forward to convey it to the Cus - 
 tom House. Here we overtook our friends 
 and agreed upon our hotel. Here our bag- 
 
25 
 
 gcige -was all opened and examined. Tlie 
 officials bowed and winked wiih an evident 
 des^ign. Then came an explosion between 
 tljom and Uie guides. 
 
 Tlie baggage was at last upon the caniago 
 and we werj ready to sarr. During all ibis 
 time we bad set lied, wiili some dozen differ- 
 ent pei-soiis. We knew not v;bat we ouglife 
 to give iliem, and in tbis stia^ge cuin, we 
 know not wbat tboy ieall37 received. 
 
 But now we are leady. A i'ew cai'lino to 
 the screeching, jostling beggars and we dash 
 away to the Hotel De La Grande Bretagiie^ 
 We found our friends enjoying most deligbt- 
 lul apartments in an old marble palace, over- 
 lo k ng the bay. 
 
 In the afternoon we loukcd down from 
 our balcony upon the most beautilul 
 d.ive in Europe. The Chi.ija was full 
 of carriages. Between us and the bay 
 was nothing but this street and the 
 Yilla Eeale, a promenade "shaded with 
 orange trees, myrtles and acacias, spark- 
 ling with fountains and adorned with mar- 
 ble statueb and Viises, gleaming through the 
 foliage." In Paris and London there are 
 more extensive drives, but heie the foliage 
 is sweeter, thicker and more enduring. Oth- 
 er cities have wider and longer streets and 
 
26 
 
 promenades, but they have no bay, no Capri, 
 no Mediterranean, no Vesuvius. The streets 
 leading back upon the hill are, many of them, 
 dark, crooked and narrow. 
 
 Here we hear the loudest voices and see 
 the most energetic acting. At meetincr, one 
 makes a most graceful bow, with hat in hand, 
 or kisses his friend on each cheek. One plays 
 a bag -pipe, and numbers dance around him. 
 One sings a song in the most impassioned 
 manner, and to your utter astonishment stabs 
 himself with a dagger, and falls to the ground. 
 One asks a carllno more than you are willing 
 to give, and he gesticulates as if the world 
 was coming to an end. One asks charity 
 with a whine that startles you with the idea 
 that he is breathing his last. Others meet in 
 carriages, and, in the most spirited manner, 
 they gesticulate with head, hands and fingers. 
 Crowds gather around minstrels and jugglers 
 and all Naples is in motion. The King of 
 Naples was not to be seen. He keeps Lim- 
 selfatGaeta. He seems to be thoroughly 
 hated by one class of his subjects. The prom- 
 ised constitution has been abandoned, the 
 monasteries have been re-established by the 
 influence of the Pope, the people have been 
 subjected by an Austrian army, and the King 
 of Naples rules by force. He fears bis ow« 
 
27 
 
 subjects. He is also said to fear lest Louis 
 ISTapoleon should restore to the throne of 
 Naples, the family of Murat, their ibrraer 
 King. He is said to be a tborouglily misera- 
 ble man. 
 
 We visited the Camaldoli Convent. I 
 speak of it because most travelers pass bj it 
 It is about five miles from Naples. The 
 ladies rode on Donkeys about three miles up 
 a circuitous ascent, under overhanging trees, 
 vines, ivy and flowers. The view surpasses 
 every thing of the kind that I ever saw. It 
 is beauty itself. Here at one sight you have 
 the plains and the hills, the sea, the bay, the 
 islands and Vesuvius. Here are twenty six 
 men who profess to be shut out from the 
 world. Their dress is a double thickness of 
 white woolen, with a small hood of the same. 
 
 They took us into a little "unoccupied room, 
 cold, hard and comfortless. The ladies were 
 forbidden to approach the convent on pain of 
 excommunication from the Holy Catholio 
 Church. As they were not ready tor such 
 anathemas and were unwilling to trouble the 
 Pope, they passed 'round the hill to a line 
 look-out. We entered the church and twen- 
 ty-six Monks were engaged in rehgious 
 service, without a listener. 
 
28 
 
 There is anotLer Convent of the snme de- 
 scription aci OSS the bay. We turned away 
 sick at heait. 
 
 The great Mascum of Naples is entirely 
 unique. 
 
 It contains a specimen of every movable 
 thing in Herculanenm and Pompeii. Tlie his- 
 toric a Eociations were so affecting that we 
 could scarcely leave the place. But at Pom- 
 peii we were enchanted. It is twelve miles 
 aiound the Bay, over the base of Vesuvius. 
 
 We wandered mourni'ully over these pub- 
 lic buildings, deserted, and these narrow 
 streets ot the dead. Six-tenths of the city is 
 3'et entombed. We walked a mile over tiiis 
 herculean grave, amid flowers and vines and 
 waving grain. 
 
 We saw the house of Sallu-t, with its white 
 stucco, its fresh paintings and iis fiae mosaics. 
 Tiie bedro ms are about the size of a steam- 
 boat's state rooms. 
 
 We saw the garden, where the rich DiOM- 
 EDE and his gold were Ibund, and the cellar to 
 which his wile, daughter and servants fled. — 
 There upon the wall is tlie impress of their 
 skeleton loims. 
 
 The next day we were at Bjice, ten miles 
 from JSaples, on the shores of the Mcditerra- 
 
29 
 
 nean. la this region is Lake ATemns, wi'li 
 its floating stone. It is deep enoupli for iLe 
 largest vessels. Murat, Bonaparte's King 
 of Naples, leit millions of money for a ship 
 canal to Avernus. After nioie than lony 
 years a few men are lazily at work. 
 
 In this region we entered ada k, deep cave. 
 As we advanced 'round and down into ihe 
 bowels of the earth, we came to a sluggish, 
 muddy stream. And, as old Chacon, with 
 his grizzly beard and blackened lace and light- 
 ed torch, stooped to bear us on his back over 
 the river Styx, the whole classic roujance of 
 my boyhood came thronging i./ver me, and I 
 exalted in the realization of my childish 
 dreams. 
 
 We lingered long and lovingly around 
 Virgil's tomb, the temple of Jupiter Serapis, 
 the iniernal and elysian abodes of the Poet, 
 and many other places of interest, to the 
 scholar, the historian and the geologist. 
 
 But I was most of all moved when at 
 Puteoli. (Pozzuoli ) I stood upon the very 
 xspot where St. Paul is said to have landed, 
 on his way to Rome. Having left Syracuse 
 and Rhenium, he says ''a!'ter one day the 
 south wind blew nnd we came the next day 
 to Puteoh." I seemed to see him step upon 
 
80 
 
 that bank. I found traces of the old Appian 
 way, on which I iollowed him in spirit, to- 
 ward Rome. I contrasted my own trials 
 with his shipwrecks, stripes and sufferings for 
 Christ, and I resolved never again to com- 
 plain of hardship. 
 
 Yery truly, your friend, "W. "W. N. 
 
NO. V. 
 
 VESFvrus, 
 Dear Friends: — You are so familiar with 
 Vesuvius, I had intended to pass it. But I 
 find it subject to wonderful freaks — find it 
 in a state of terrific activity. This was the 
 spot, of all others in Europe, that 1 most de- 
 sired to see. And, now, my soul is so full of 
 it, that I can neither think, dream, nor speak 
 of anything else. 
 
 We were told in Paris, that at Naples we- 
 should find three things— Fleas, Priests and 
 Lazzaroni. We find three other things — 
 the Bay, the City and Vesuvius. But the 
 awe and fascination of the whole is Vesuvi- 
 us. Wherever you are, you turn to behold 
 it. At Pompeii, Terre del Greco and Her- 
 culaneum, you behold the fury of its awful 
 desolation. Miles the other side of Naples? 
 we find hot vapor baths connected with Ve- 
 suvius. The volcanic heat in these closed 
 rooms is so excessive that we can endure it 
 but a few moments at a time. At the G-rot- 
 to del Cane we see a dog immersed in a stra* 
 turn of carbonic acid gas issuing from the 
 ground. He stands a moment, gasps, falls^ 
 
82 
 
 and apparently dies. In this region is a run- 
 ning stream of warm sulphurous water. — 
 H -re is the solialara, (the Forum Vulcani,) 
 where the hollow ground trembles beneath 
 your feet, and sulphurous vapors are issuing 
 from every crevice. Above ail, here is Monte 
 Nuovo, a perfejtly formed cone, four liun- 
 dred and fifiy feet h gh, thrown up duiing 
 one night in 1538. At every step, fii-e, 
 water, air and time have left the ruin ol their 
 footprmts. 
 
 But now for the mountain itself. Our 
 open phaeton, with three horses abreast, 
 stands at the door. The ladies descend to 
 the Cou: t Yard. Twenty men, with hats in 
 hand, bow obsequiously. At a given signal, 
 we all together lush into the carriage. We 
 throw a lew coin behind us, and with the 
 whole crowd in motion we are off for Vesu- 
 vius. 
 
 At Resin a, some two miles 'round the bay, 
 we conimeoce the ascent. We bless tlje 
 King of Naples for a perfectly smooih car- 
 iiage-way up this precipitous mountain, to 
 the Heim.tiige. It; is the only good thino- 
 we ever heard ot him. This part of the as- 
 cent is truly charming. We revel in en- 
 chanted scenery, the air is balmy, the sea is 
 caiui and luajcstic. The bay is a bright and 
 
8S 
 
 azure mirror. On its borders, in the most 
 rank and luxurious verdure, lies Naples^ 
 spaikling like a bdlliant gem. From the 
 Hei milage the ladies ride upon donkies 
 about a mile to the base of the cone. The 
 cone is covered with heavy pieces of lava, 
 and seems almost perpendicular. The ascent 
 occupies an hour and a half. One of the la- 
 dies with guides upon each side and one in 
 front wilh a strap over his shoulder to help 
 her up, suffers extremely. 
 
 On leaching the edge of the crater the 
 scene is terrific. It is nearer the infinite 
 than anything I ever beheld. I have seen 
 vast mountains and stupendous water-falls, 
 but this is something more and greater. It 
 is a dark, mysterious combination. 
 
 As we stand in that crater, the darkness of 
 night has stolen over us ; sulphurous gas is 
 rising around us; hot lava is everywhere 
 exuding; yawning crevices are every- 
 where opening beneath our feet, and there 
 before us is that stupendous cone of sulphur, 
 fire and smoke streaming up into the heav- 
 ens above. In the awiul grandeur and fas- 
 cination of the scene, we forget the world, 
 some four thousand feet below us. We mind 
 not the semi-barbarous horde that are clam* 
 oring for gold, and may at any moment rob 
 6 
 
84 
 
 us. We heed not the rising moon, the dark 
 clouds and driyingwind. 
 
 As we stand by the edge and look down 
 into that gulf of liquid fire boiling up from 
 the bowels ot the earth, lue are alone with 
 God in his terrible fury. For a moment we 
 are diverted. A hat is driven by a bU^st of 
 wind directly into the flames. To C/ur utter 
 amazement one ot the guides dashes down 
 into the gulf. He emerges wii.h his tieasure, 
 like a spirit reeking hot from the sulphurous 
 fires of the bottomless pit. 
 
 As we turn slowly away, while still in the 
 Grater and but a lew yards fiom the stream- 
 ing fire, suddenly there is an explosion under 
 our feet. L ke the firing of a thousand can- 
 non, one stream af red hot stones and cin- 
 ders goes flying up, and comes arching down 
 upon the very spot where we had stood, like 
 ten thousand times ten thousand rockets. — 
 For a time I am transfixed in utter amaze- 
 ment, then dropping all that I hold, I scream 
 aloud and clap my hands in an exstacy of 
 delight. 
 
 The trouble of descending depends very 
 XDU'jh upon the time of yea-, and the time of 
 diy. A distinguished writer tells us that on 
 descending he found the whole cone covered 
 with ice. 
 
zz 
 
 " Tlie way down being perfectly steep 
 and none of the party being able to keep 
 their feet, the ladies are taken oat of th'ir 
 litters and placed each between two careful 
 persons. One of the party, a heavy gentle- 
 man, resolves to go down as he went up, 
 upon a litter borne by fifteen galdes. In 
 this order we begin to depceod. Somebody 
 irorn behind is constantly falhng and cling- 
 ing to somebody's ankles. Some one of the 
 litter-bearers is always down and' the heavy 
 gentleman's legs are always in the air. We 
 have gone on thus bat a little way, stopping 
 and sliding, and I'alling, when the head 
 guide stumbles, falls and plunging away 
 headtbremost, rolls, over and over, down the 
 whole surface of the cone. It is a sickening 
 sight. I see him there in the moonlight — I 
 have had such a dream often — skimming 
 over the white ice like a cannon ball. An- 
 other cry and a man with spare cloaks comes 
 rolling past. And then at the same trighttul 
 speed, closely follows a boy. We find them 
 at the bottom bruised and stunned, giddy 
 and bloody — mere bundles ot rags. Oa 
 reaching Eesina, we find one of a party of 
 French gentlemen, who were on the moun- 
 
 tain at tlie same time, is lying on some straw 
 in the stable with a broken limb, looking like 
 death and suffering great tortare." 
 
 This experience is to warn travelers against 
 Vesuvius in winter. We have no such troub- 
 le. The ashes upon the side of the moun- 
 tain where we descend are ankle deep. Tak- 
 ing the arm of a guide we slide down at lull 
 
86 
 
 speed, in just eight minutes. At tke bottom 
 
 we find our torches, eggs and Donkies. At 
 
 the Hermitage there are at least fif:y laz- 
 
 zaroni and guides, crowding, screaming and 
 
 begging in a darkness and confusion, worse 
 
 than bedlam itself. We emerge from (his 
 
 savage horde, fold our arms, fall back in ihe 
 
 carriage, and yield ourselves up to the most 
 
 sublime and absorbing sensations. We reach 
 
 our hotel at midnight, too weary to sleep and 
 
 too grateful to complain. 
 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 W, W. N. 
 
NO. VI. 
 
 ItoMB, May 29, 1858, 
 Dear Friends : — In my last letter I sup- 
 posed I had dismissed Vesuvius. But Vesu- 
 vius will not be dismissed. It is a living- 
 mountain— it breathes -and its every breath 
 is enchantment. It fascinated the Elder 
 Pliny and killed him with its poisonous 
 breath. It has locked up sweet vallies and 
 rich cities in a dungeon so deep and desolate 
 that they will never see the sun again. Its 
 ashy clouds have blotted out the sun from 
 the face of men an hundred miles away. 
 
 Twenty- eight hours after the date of my last 
 letter from Naples, the city and the mountain 
 were visited by an earthquake. The scientif- 
 ic clock at the Hermitage stopped at 16 
 minutes past 4 in the morning. Strange 
 sounds were heard in Vesuvius. As the 
 Italian professor said — "The mountain was 
 very troublous." Directly the crust of the 
 cone burst open and there was a new erup- 
 tion. These eruptions continued to occur 
 until there were three prominent streams of 
 lava. And what will be remembered as an 
 era in the history of this volcano, the erup- 
 
88 
 
 tions did not occur in the crater at all, but 
 near the base oF the cone. Daring the day 
 an Enoflish cfentleman and his Httle dauojhter 
 visited the crater. Suddenly an explosion is 
 heard and a stream of lava is running direct- 
 ly between them and ihe hving throng be- 
 hind. AH communication seemed to be cut 
 off. In a tremor of anxiety the wife and 
 mother sat -alone at the Hermitage. Sun- 
 down came, 9 o'clock came, midnight came, 
 but they came not. Finally they entered the 
 room. Many long and weary miles had they 
 wandered 'round and down the mountain, un- 
 til they reached Pompoii, some ten or twelve 
 miles distant. All co Dmunications with the 
 crater being now cut off, our frieftds who did 
 not ascend with us were obliged to content 
 themselves with a view of the new eruption. 
 Sometimes the river of fire would finv some 
 lour miles an hour; sometimes it would 
 burst with explosive force through a part of 
 the stream already encrusted. 
 
 This eruption occasioned great excitement 
 among the neighboring inhabitants. It was 
 not so much fear as curiosity. At Naples, 
 "we were just through with what they call 
 ^'Mad Day." 
 
 The country around poured through the 
 city ; they had kept the day some 50 miles 
 
a9 
 
 distant, spending the night at a shrine. The 
 city was filled with vehicles — not merely the 
 elegant carriage, but the one-horbe gig, upon 
 which ten or twelve persons would some- 
 how contrive to hang. In addition to these 
 some 200,000 people were said to be walking 
 the streets. The country was just becoming 
 quiet, when this eruption maved them again. 
 
 Though vineyards are desolated and houses 
 are burned, they are not alarmed, Our vil- 
 lage stands upon a spot said to have been 
 buried six times. Easily and literally they 
 seem to adopt the language of the Psalmist — 
 '^Therefore will not we fear, though the earth 
 be removed, and though the mountains be 
 carried into the midst of the sea. Though 
 the fires (waters) thereof roar and be trou- 
 bled, though the mountains shake with the 
 swellings thereof. Selah." 
 
 During our long and lovely sail down the 
 Mediterranean, we made the acquaintance of 
 a fine young man from Edinburgh. His 
 father was Swiss, his mother was English. — 
 They had been married at Florence. They 
 lived in France. The young man was born 
 at Nice, and was a student of Theology at 
 Edinburgh. He was exc eedingly accomplish- 
 ed in the modern languages. He had ac- 
 companied us in our travels about Naples. — 
 
40 
 
 He had endeared himself to us by his refine- 
 ment and p inciples. Ke had essentially 
 served us in this Bibel of tongues. His fath- 
 er was settled as a Protestant Clergyman, in 
 the South of France. 
 
 He told us many stories of hardships and 
 persecution endured for Christ, in that King- 
 dom. But the people were firm, and religion 
 prospered. 
 
 But we were now to part. Leaving our 
 very agreeable friends from America, who 
 persisted in calling themselves Joxes, Brown 
 and Smith, we rode down to the wharf. — 
 Once more we started forth alone. 
 
 ^On our way to Rome we took a French 
 steamer to Civita Yecchia. We pre'^erred this 
 mode of travel. We loved the old blue sea — 
 it washed the shores of Egypt and Palestine, 
 of Italy and Greece. Sailors were upon its 
 bosom in the times of Solomon and Jonah and 
 HANNrBAL, centuries before they braved the 
 Atlantic. 
 
 During the day the weather had been 
 rough. As we passed out by Capri, into the 
 open sea, we met a terrible storm. The 
 Neapolitian steamer put back. But on we 
 went, pitching and rolHng the whole night 
 long. The water was sometimes knee deep 
 on deck. Sometimes it would dash down 
 
41 
 
 among the dwellers of the cabin, creating no 
 ittle noise and stir in those regions. Thun- 
 der, lightning, hail and wind. It was a fear- 
 ful night. We thought of Paul on his way 
 to the same city. And when the morning 
 was come, "we took bread and gave thanks 
 to God." 
 
 At Civita Yecchia an old Eaghsh resident 
 at Kome, piloted us through the intricate and 
 barbarous formaUties of entering the Papal 
 dominions. As the Dihgence pays no atten- 
 tion to the wants of travelers, or the arrival 
 of the boat, it had just departed. We procur- 
 ed another, for our party. After some hours 
 delay we were posting off for Rome. It is 
 forty-eight miles. For many years they 
 have been atworkupoa a Railroad, but there 
 seems to be no prospect of its completion. — 
 During the whole distance we scarcely saw 
 an inhabited house. The situation of the 
 ground, with its finely swelling hills, is most 
 dehghtful. But it is uncultivated, cursed and 
 deserted. At one place we were attracted by 
 the appearance of about one hundred persons, 
 whom we found breaking up the soil and hoe- 
 ing a single acre of corn, while some of the 
 interminable pastures were covered with 
 white oxen. 
 
 The sun was now setting. We were just 
 6 
 
42 
 
 settling down into a sad dream over the deso- 
 lations of this vast burial ground, when sud- 
 dently the cry is heard, *' The Dome of St, 
 Peters," We could scarcely sit or wait. We 
 passed directly under its mammoth shadow, 
 crossed the Yellow Tiber, and went to our 
 home in Rome. 
 
 Very tm7y your friend. W, W. N, 
 
NO. VII. 
 
 KoMBj June 1, 1858. 
 
 Dear Friends : — 
 
 "Whence this excess of joy ? Wha-t has befallen me ? 
 A ihrilliiig voice replies, 'Thou art in Kome ! 
 Thou art in Eome ! once mistress of the world !' 
 
 And am I here ? 
 Ah, little thought I, when in school I sat, 
 A school-boy on his bench, at early dawn, 
 Glowing with Eoman story, I should live 
 To tread the Appian Way, to pass the Tiber, 
 And beyond the city gate." 
 
 The evening of our first day at Rome was 
 spent at the Coliseum. It was our last op- 
 portunity of viewing it by moonlight. Wish- 
 ing to spend several hours alone we dismiss- 
 ed our carriage. On beholding this majestic 
 ruin we were translated/ at once, to the 
 proudest days of the Imperial city 
 
 Whatever doubts might arise about other 
 relics, tombs and ruins, Tiere there could be 
 no deception. This building was erected by 
 Yespasian, 72 years after Christ. Here was 
 an elliptical wall, once one hundred and 
 eighty feet high, covering and enclosing four 
 acres of ground. Narrow galleries ranged 
 around and back from the centre to the 
 top. The soil of its arena had been soak- 
 ed a thousand times with human blood.—-. 
 An hundred thousand Eomans had looked 
 
44 
 
 down, in fiendish exultation, upon these 
 barbarous exhibitions. 
 
 Such were our reflections as we lifted our 
 hats to the guard and entered the enclosure. 
 Passing across the dark arena, we sat down 
 upon a crumbling wall. As we sat and 
 thought and gazed into the darkness, mar- 
 t}?rs, clothed in white, and wild beasts seem- 
 ed to emerge from the opposite arches. The 
 hundred thousand seemed to be hushed by 
 the raging conflict. And now the wild beasts 
 seemed to growl over the christian heroes, 
 prostrate in their gore, and now the clamor 
 of an hundred thousand voices and the tu- 
 mult of an hundred thousand retreating foot- 
 steps seemed to die away in the distance. 
 
 The delusion is past. The light of the 
 moon is climbing up these fractured arches. 
 It reveals broken passages and mouldering 
 stairways, hanging grass and blooming flow- 
 ers. The tide of life is gone. There are no 
 beings here but the owl, the bat, the liz- 
 zard, and one lone, hidden hermit. 
 
 The distant bells are tolling out the hour of 
 midnight. We are far out of the inhabited 
 city, a mile and a half from our hotel Foul 
 robberies have been committed here. We 
 send for a carriage, but no carriage can be 
 found. We pass out. Nothing can be seen 
 
45 
 
 but the still and dismal ruins of old, dilapida- 
 ted Rome. Where lies our way ? Each of 
 the party points in diJBferent directions. — 
 We cannot go four ways. We elect a Pope, 
 and follow his commands. We reach the 
 narrow, dirty, crooked streets of the city. — 
 With dim light and no side\Yalks we grope 
 along. Every straggler IS accosted in French, 
 but there is no response. At length we pass 
 a gentlemanly young man. He lifts his hat 
 to our salutation. He replies in French, and 
 offers his services as guide. And thus, at 
 length, we reach the court-yard of our hotel 
 and the close of our first day in Rome. 
 
 Since the first dtiy we have secured our 
 carriage and kept our guide. We have seen 
 some odd things. 
 
 In the church Ara Coeli, near the Capitol, 
 there is a little wooden figure of the infant 
 Saviour, said to have been carved by a monk 
 and painted by St. Lukb. It inherited from * 
 Dr. Luke the miraculous power of healing, 
 and receives more fees than any physician in 
 Rome. As the priest uncovered this little 
 Santissimo Bambino, all decked with jewels 
 and finery, he kissed it, and with awe whis- 
 pered ^^This makes all the people well."-— 
 *^Then you monks never die in this church." 
 
46 
 
 The absurdity struck him and he really laugh- 
 ed outright. 
 
 We have been fortunately here on one of 
 the great days of the church. We witnessed 
 a gorgeous parade from under one of the 
 Colonnades of St. Peter's. The procession of 
 boys, monks, priests, cardinals, Pope and 
 soldiers, was more than an hour in passing 
 us. The next day we found men scraping the 
 floor of the church, which was literally cov- 
 ered with the wax and tallow that streamed 
 from the lighted candles that many of them 
 carried. The saddest sight of all was those 
 little boys, trained from their Yerj infancy to 
 all the formahties of the church. They do 
 not reason, they are simply taught to believe. 
 Hence an absurdity or a miracle is to them a 
 reality. They are never to know the com- 
 forts of family and social ties. 
 
 Mr. Cass is out of the city, and as our 
 American service is held in a room under his 
 'roof, the Chapel is at present closed. Kev. 
 Mr. Hall, the officiating clergyman, is spend- 
 ing the summer in Q-eneva. One of the con- 
 gregation informed us that over one hundred 
 persons are often in attendance here. 
 
 The clergyman of the English Chapel is 
 also absent. The young man officiating in his 
 place would be thought, in America, to be 
 
4^ 
 
 greatly wanting in point and power as ^ 
 preacher. 
 
 We visited the Studios of some American 
 artists. We had known Mr. Thompson and 
 Mr. Terry in former days. They have richly 
 earned the reputation and patronage they en- 
 joy. No countryman of theirs will ever be 
 ashamed of their paintings. We also admir« 
 ed the beautiful statuary of M)\ Ives, former- 
 ly of New Haven. 
 
 With a sad delight we gazed upon the 
 wonderful productions of the lamented Craw- 
 ford. His genius still presides in that Studio. 
 It is full of workmen^ finishing and re-pro- 
 ducing his works. And as great artists do 
 not labor at the chisel^ we do not see why 
 the work of re-prodnction may not go on for 
 ages. His bereaved family will soon be here 
 to spend two years. 
 
 When standing by the graves of Keats and 
 Shelley, in the beautiful grounds just outside 
 these walls, I felt that the great representa- 
 tive of American genius should rest there.— 
 Crawford at Rome ! But his own country 
 claims the dust of her gifted son. The world 
 
 of art will cherish his name. 
 
 Truly Yours, W, W. N» 
 
NO. VIII. 
 
 RoMH, June 8, 1858. 
 Dear Friends : — Rome is a wilderness of 
 art aiAd ruin. The descriptions which I have 
 read of this city have always failed to give 
 me a definite idea of relative locahties. We 
 have graphic views of remarkable places, but 
 ■where are they ? In the brief sketches I 
 have time to make I have certainly no ex- 
 pectation of better success. And yet there 
 are certain places here which seem to be 
 representative localities. We have, first, the 
 Rome of the Consuls. From the Palace of 
 the Caesars, which is the high ground of the 
 ancient city, we have a splendid view of old 
 Rome. Here was the grandeur of ancient 
 Rome. Wg see the Coliseum and the Cap- 
 itol. Between these buildings is an im- 
 mensely wide space, half a mile long. In the 
 middle of this pathway of ruins, ran the Yia 
 Sacra. Let us travarse this way. We stand 
 in the centre of the Cohseum. We stand by 
 a large cross. Toward evening a myster- 
 iously dressed company are seen passing 
 through the forms of a most remarkable 
 service. All who kias this cross are promis- 
 
49 
 
 ed an indulgence for one hundred days. On 
 passing out, we find a cross upon a marble 
 slab, with promises to the one who kisses it 
 of an indulgence for two hundred arid foi tj/ 
 days. As we see peisoris kissing ihe^e 
 crosses, the thought arises how easily ibis iri- 
 diligence io gained, and then ari-se the ques- 
 tions, has it the sanction of Q-od ? is it Irorn 
 the Bible ? As we pass from the Co' ism; in. 
 we come at once to the arch of Corjs<-nDtiDP, 
 It stands over an old street leading off to ihe 
 left. This is one of the -largest artel lest 
 preserved arches in Rome. In its niiiliitu- 
 dinous sculptural designs there is a rich nis- 
 tory for the AntiquariaD. 
 
 We pass up the gentle ascent of ihe Via 
 Sacra, to the arch of Titus. It is composed 
 of G-recian marble and is considered the 
 most simple and beautiful arch in the old 
 city. Here a procession of Jews is repre- 
 sented, in bas-relief bearing the silver trum- 
 pets and the golden candlestick?. These in- 
 struments correspond with the description of 
 Josephus. As we proceed on our straight 
 way to the Forum, we have upon our left a 
 high hill. Here was the Palace of the Cae- 
 sars. It is one mile around the top of this 
 hill. Here is every description of foliage 
 and ruin. Here are ivy and vegetables, 
 7 
 
60 
 
 vines and stucco, cypresses and frescoes all 
 jumbled together in motley confusion. As we 
 return to our road and resume our way, we 
 find the peasants feeding their teams of white 
 oxen. Upon the right are the granite fronts 
 of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustini, 
 the arches of the temple of Peace, and the 
 ruins of the temple of Yenus. And here, 
 says our guide, is the Eoman Forum. Na- 
 poleon has excavated the earth from a por- 
 tion of this space, to the depth of fitteen 
 feet. We look down, and behold the Yia 
 Sacra appears again, running directly under 
 the great arch of Septimus Severus. Here 
 also, are three magnificent columns of the 
 Temple of t)upiter Tonans, and eight Cor- 
 inthian columns of the Temple of Concord. — 
 At the base of the Capitol on the right, we 
 enter the Mamertine dungeon, where Jugur- 
 tha was starved and where the Apostle was 
 said to have been confined by Nero. We 
 drink from a spring said to have been mirac- 
 ulously formed at that time. On rising the 
 graded pathway of the Capitol hill we find a 
 square, with a distinct building on three dif- 
 ferent sides. In the centre is a fine eques- 
 trian statue of Aurelius. Here we 1 ove to 
 linger. Here are the most numerous and 
 authentic vestiges of old Rome. Here the 
 
51 
 
 old traditions of our school days are pictured 
 on canvass. Here Romulus and Remus are 
 nursing the old bronze wolf. One of her 
 legs is broken. It was said to have been 
 shattered by a stroke of lightning on the 
 night of Caesar's death. Here is the Dying 
 G-ladiator. Here, among multitudes more, 
 are the most reliable busts of Brutus, Caesar 
 and Tully, of Horace, Yirgil and Sallust, and 
 we seem to see their movements and hear 
 their speeches. This is the Rome of the Con- 
 suls. 
 
 It is still in its lonely grandeur, but as we 
 look and think, majestic buildings rise up be- 
 fore us, triumphal processions wind around 
 undfer the arches, and Orators, Poets and 
 conquerors crowd the Forum. In leaving 
 this Rome of the ancients, we pass through a 
 garden ot flowers, and stand upon a precipice 
 of some fifty feet. This is the Tarpeian Rock 
 where criminals were destroyed. 
 
 We will now pass round the banks of the 
 Tiber to the next side of the city. We stand 
 upon the bridge of St. Angelos. Here is the 
 Rome of the Popes. On the opposite bank 
 of the Tiber stands a grand circular building. 
 It was erected upon the ruins of Hadrian's 
 Tomb, and is now a fortified castle, the Cas- 
 tle of St. Angelo. Upon the top there stands 
 
52 
 
 a giiuit llgure of the Archangel Michael, 
 sheathing his sword. Just beyond this castle 
 rises the Dome of St. Peters. After walking 
 about hali' a mile through narrow and dirty 
 streets, we oome to an open space. Here is 
 a paved court closed in by semi-circular 
 coloimades, supported by four rows of im- 
 mense columns. In the centre of this court 
 there rises an Egyptian Obelisk, a single 
 shaft of red granite, eighty three feet 
 high. Two fountains throw up their jets of 
 silvery spray, sixty feet from the ground. — 
 And before us staiids St. Peters! St. Peters! 
 built by forty three Popes, in 350 years, at 
 a cost of fifty millions of dollars. We ascend 
 the steps, push aside the curtain door, and 
 what a spectacle ! What a burst of stupen- 
 dous vastness and magnificent splendor. We 
 are transfixed to the spot. We scarcely 
 breathe. Six huiidred feet long, four hund- 
 red feet wide and four hundred feet high. I 
 had little idea of the interior, and I can give 
 you none whatever — you must see it. I had 
 heard that an hundred good sized churches 
 could be stowed away bj^..cith its roof, I 
 knew that there were chapels, pillars, tombs, 
 statues and mosaics. But I had expected to 
 see more open space, like a church. Front of 
 the entrance, in 4he far distance, are 112 
 
lights, around the vault of St. Peter, glitter- 
 ing, as Shelley has said, "hke a sv.'arm o 
 golden bees." There we sec a canopy over 
 the high altar ninety three feet high. There 
 are four pillars^ each as large as a church, on 
 which the Dome rests. There in the far dis- 
 lancu behind, is a s^jace fitted up for rehgious 
 service, and open chapels are ranged around 
 the sides of the building.. Some persons are 
 kissing the great toe of St. Peter, Some 
 are eugaged in a religious service, some are 
 kneehng before a monument, some are gaz- 
 ug up into the dome ; and it seems hke a 
 great museum, church and cemetery, all to- 
 gether. 
 
 We will now ascend to the Dome. There 
 are no stairs, but a regular grade to the roof 
 of the building — a plane so inchned that 
 loaded donkies may pass to the roof. Here 
 we find a large space with small buildings, 
 cupolas and fountains. We now commence 
 our winding way to the top of the Dome. 
 On reachiiig ihe summit we step withm a 
 door, and behold a revelation too much for 
 ordinary nerves— our limbs tremble like the 
 knees of Belshazzar. We hang by a narrow 
 railing, four hundred feet, directly over the 
 pavement below. The officiating Priesthood 
 look like gaudily dressed little children walk- 
 
54 
 
 ing and kneeling. The organ peal comes up 
 like the music of a distant sphere. We begin 
 now to comprehend something of the stupen- 
 dous outlines of this most magnificent of all 
 earth's buildings. We ascend upon the out- 
 side to the foot of the ball. It is a gorgeous 
 day. We sit down in silence and take in a 
 view, the remembrance of which will never, 
 never fade. . The winding Tiber, the distant 
 Mediterrnaean, the vast and desolate Cam- 
 pagna, the Sabine and Alban hills, the far 
 off Appenines. And above all, Rome I — 
 Eome, as we now see it through the eyes of the 
 body, Eome, as we see it through the eyes 
 of the mind. Eome, in all the splendor of the 
 Augustine age, with its wastes covered with 
 Palaces, Pillars and Temples. Eome, as Hor- 
 ace, Paul and Nero saw it. As we gaze 
 from this summit of earth's greatness, we seem 
 to stand upon the summit of earth's desire. — 
 It is too grand for one view, it is too much 
 for one day. 
 
 Yery truly yours, 
 
 W. W. N. 
 
NO. IX, 
 
 EoMB, June 6, 185S. 
 
 t)EAR Friends : —I closed my last sketch 
 upon the top of St. Peter's. Having con- 
 stantly been reminded, by the appearance of 
 French soldiers, of the last subjugation of 
 Eome, in 1849, and having been at the time 
 deeply interested in the particulars of that 
 event, I sought out the place of their first 
 attack. I found it at the right of this church, 
 as we passed out in front. The French as- 
 sailed the v^alls at the base of the Janiculum. 
 In two places the walls were entirely over- 
 thrown. Here the first battle was fought, 
 and here the French rushed into the city. — 
 The second battle was fought in a valley 
 near to St. Peter's. Bombs were also thrown 
 into the city from the top of Mount Maria. 
 St. Peter's was much bruised by the balls, 
 and we saw where many holes had been 
 made in the roof by French cannon. 
 
 On the left of St. Peter's, as we passed out, 
 we found the Sistine Chapel, and the Palace, 
 Museum and grounds of the Yatican. We 
 will not trouble you to pass with us through 
 the Yatican, for there are more than two 
 
50 
 
 haodred stairways and many long gHr^Mies, 
 There aro 4.222 apartments, measurint:;- man;/ 
 miles in length. Here is a mostspieridid .'ind 
 extei^sive collection of ftatiuny, paintin'j;s. ta- 
 pestries, frescoes^ books, curiosities, Eiruscan 
 cintiquides, a-'d on istian relics. Here ;ire 
 '.he finest productions of Michael A.^cgelo, 
 Kaphael, Titian and Oanova. A good view 
 of the whole occupies days, and the siraplesr 
 d-eseriptioii makes a ssnall library. 
 
 Id some of the ro nns of the Vatican there 
 is an extensive e.^tablishment for i he manu- 
 facture of Mosaics. vVe were received with 
 greai poUtcuess by the Superintendent, and 
 saw the several artisSat their work. Instead 
 of stones, they use enamels, made for the 
 purpose. Tnere are moo than ten thou -'and 
 tiifferent tints. They are ground to the re- 
 quisite size and* inserted in a kind of cement. 
 This work demands taste, time and judgment. 
 From Lv/elve to twenty years are often occu- 
 pied in the production of a single pictuiO. At 
 a little distance tiiey resemble tlie most ex- 
 quisite paintings. But v.dnle paintings per- 
 ish, Mosaics are expected to endnre to the 
 end of time. 
 
 We sav/ the Po-^e. for the first time, in th'^ 
 Sisiine Chapel. Before his appearance, An- 
 u'oNKTrr, the Pope's Pi ime Minister, and tl*v 
 
67 
 
 Cardinala entered the chapel. They weie 
 known by their long trails, and their purple 
 and scarlet robes. We have since become 
 quite familiar with their countenances. The 
 Pope has a large figure, a good face and a 
 fine voice. He has the appearance of an 
 agreeable old gentleman. He seems to have 
 more amiableness than energy. The services 
 consisted in reading, loud singing, swinging 
 censors, a brief discourse and a kind of pan- 
 tomime, in which boys, Priests, Cardinals 
 and Pope took part. All this was the more 
 difficult and singular, from the fact that the 
 Pope's cap and robes were put off and on, 
 and the long trails of th^Oardinals were car* 
 ried and adjusted by many attendants. 
 
 The next time we saw the Pope he was 
 carried upon a kind of staging, in a great 
 procession. A great fan was borne upon 
 each side of him. As this staging rests upon 
 the shoulders of men, it is very unsteady .-?p 
 The Pope's head sways to and fro, his eyes 
 are closed and he seems sick and giddy. As 
 he passed, the guard seemed to be in a per- 
 petual phrenzy at the sight of so many cov- 
 ered and sitting heretics. All classes are 
 expected to kneel. 
 
 Some of our party next met the Pope on 
 the Campagna, just outside the walls. He 
 8 
 
5$ 
 
 was walking in front of his carriage. The 
 driver of our party was greatly excited. — 
 Turning the carriage from the road, he leap- 
 ed to the ground, and with head uncovered, 
 dropped upon his knees. He earnestly be- 
 sought the company to do the same. The 
 ladies, however, kept their seats ; the gentle- 
 men alighted and their salutation was polite- 
 ly returned, with a blessing from his Hohness. 
 
 "We visited the Palace on Quirinal Hill, 
 from which the Pope fled to G-aeta in 1849. 
 Here we found a curious organ, carried by a 
 water^fall. The rooms of the Palace seemed 
 grand, but sad and forlorn. The Pope must 
 eat alone. Accordirif to a mistaken law, he 
 has no social and family ties. Since 1849 he 
 hag abandoned this Palace for the Vatican. — 
 He is now near to the fortified castle of St. 
 Angelo. There is a covered gallery running 
 from the Palace to t\ie fortress. We enjoyed 
 the unusual privilege of inspecting the 
 grounds of the Pope in the vicinity of the 
 Vatican. Here the Pope not only walks, 
 but rides on horseback. 
 
 Here we found immense rows of box and 
 orange trees, higher than our heads. Tlie air 
 was loaded with the sweet perfumery of blos- 
 soms. Eastern splendor could not boast a 
 more luxuriant odor. We passed up the 
 
50 
 
 wooded hill among covered dells and hidden 
 fountains. On our return to the buildings of 
 the Yatican, the children were amused by a 
 funny surprise. But the amusement was not 
 confined to the children. Foreign travel 
 makes us all children. We are all young 
 again. Upon the terrace of the Navicella, 
 we tound a bronze ship in a large fountain. 
 Suddenly^ the waters poured forth upon us 
 from every part of this ship. As we stepped 
 back, it streamed up into our faces from the 
 ground. To escape it, we ran up on to the 
 terrace above. Hearing a great outcry be- 
 hind us, we looked back and those incur rear 
 were covered with streams coming out of the 
 stairs. While exulting in our own escape, 
 the water issued from the ground where we 
 stood, and encircled us all in its mischievous 
 arches. With this little Italian frolic, we will 
 leave the Vatican, and bid adieu to the Kome 
 of the Popes, 
 
 Upon the opposifee side of the city, a mile 
 and a half from St. Peter's, we find the Piazza 
 di Spagna, a triangular area with a fountain 
 in the centre. This is the Eome of Foreign- 
 ers. At one end is the College of the Propa- 
 ganda. I called here twice with some dis- 
 tinguished Americans. This institution is to 
 educate youth from foreign lands, who prom- 
 
60 
 
 ise to disseminate the doctrines of the Catho- 
 lic religion in their native country. There are 
 usually about sixty young men, supported by 
 the funds of this institution. At their ex- 
 hibitions, each young man delivers an address 
 in his natiye language. On other aides of this 
 triangle are hbrarJfes, reading rooms, banks, 
 hotels, coffee-houses and print shops, for the 
 especial benefit of foreigners. Here the Eil- 
 glish and Americans may be seen. We pass 
 up from the Piazza di Spagna one hundred 
 and thirty steps ; on these steps we always 
 meet a beggar who is called the Torso. He 
 -seems to have no legs. His hands are shod 
 with pieces of wood. He scraipbles at you 
 with a shuffling gate that is really terrific. — 
 At night he crawls upon his donkey and rides 
 away. He is said to be rich. At the head 
 of these stairs are an Egyptian obelisk and a 
 French church. Here is a nunnery for 
 French girls. At the evening service we 
 drop in to hear the singing of the nuns at 
 one end of the church, and to see the motions 
 of the priesthood at the other. We now turn 
 to the left, and passing up a gradual ascent 
 we come to the French Academy of Fine 
 Arts. This noble building and these splen- 
 did grounds were secured for the French by 
 Bonaparte. Resuming our upward walk we 
 
61 
 
 come to the far-famed Pincian Hill This 
 high eminence is altogether the most beauti- 
 ful pla©e in Eome. Here are a profusion of 
 roses, fountains, trees and walks. Here, ev- 
 ery evening, a French or Eoman band may 
 be heard discoursing sweet music. Here may 
 be seen carriages of all descriptions, costumes 
 of all colors, and people from all the kindreds 
 and nations of the earth, taking their evening 
 promenade. Here we look down upon Mod- 
 ern Borne. Beyond the Tiber, St. Angelo, 
 St. Peter's and the old Etrurian hills, stand 
 out in the golden splendors of an Italian sun- 
 set, while the last playing sunbeams gild the 
 cross of the great Dome. Behind us, across 
 the walls of KomCj is the Villa Borghese. — 
 But, alas, alas, the malaria is there. The 
 bhght and the curse of Eome have fallen upon 
 these most beautiful and fashionable grounds. 
 The Villa is crowded with gems of art and 
 genius, but the owners have fled, and they 
 are opened to the public. Thus you have the 
 Eome of Foreigners. 
 
 Tery truly yours, "W. W. Na 
 
NO. X. 
 
 BoME, June 8, 185$. 
 Dear Friends: — Wehave now been in 
 Borne about two weeks. We have found it 
 most economical and most agreeable, to keep 
 in our service a carriage and a guide. In 
 this way, it is surprising how much we have 
 been able to see. I would love to describe 
 to you more of these objects, so rich in his- 
 toric and classic association. But letter- 
 writing abroad has its difficulties. The hot 
 weather is upon us in its scorching power. 
 The good traveler abroad is a good planner 
 and a hard worker. By the time he is ready 
 to write at night, he is often sinking into the 
 profoundest stupor. And what shall he 
 write ? For days he has gazed upon objects 
 of rarest beauty, and scenes of mightiest 
 grandeur. But men of letters and men of 
 leisure have exhausted language in their 
 description. There are in Rome more than 
 three hundred churches, six thousand 
 ancient columns, besides statues and paintings 
 without number. Churches, palaces, mu- 
 seums, paintings, statues, libraries and con- 
 vents should not be named. He should nei- 
 
63 
 
 ther complain of passports, baggage or extor- 
 tion; fleas, food or beggai:s. For these, he 
 only wants christian philosophy and a plenty 
 of silver. He should neither quote G-aUg- 
 nani or Murray. He should write the news. 
 The news I What news in Rome, for exam- 
 ple, since 1849 ? Since then, to be sure, a 
 statue of colossal proportions and grand de- 
 signs, has been erected, in the Piazza di 
 Spagna, to commemorate the announcement 
 of the doctrme of the immaculate concep- 
 tion, by Pius IX. And there are news from 
 centuries gone. For Signer Fortunato, is 
 digging ®ut of the New Appian Way, a 
 few miles from Rome, old churches, tombs, 
 bas-reliefs and frescoes. There is a little 
 daily paper in Rome, about the size of the 
 first newspaper ever published in Boston. It 
 minutely describes police doings and fete 
 days. But intelligent men in this city had 
 not heard of the new eruption of Vesuvius 
 at the end of a week. While the vast and 
 brilliant procession of soldiers and ecclesias^ 
 tics was moving here on the day of Corpus 
 Christi, we heard it rumored that Cardinal 
 Antonelli, the Prime Minister of the Pope, 
 being a hard and hated man, was to be assas- 
 inated. It produced a great stir. _ It turned 
 out to be a farce. It was telegraphed from 
 
64 
 
 Moreaco in place of news. There is also an 
 item of city news, which I might sketch to 
 you as a specimen of Italian gossip, and as 
 illustrative of the state of society in Kome. 
 About half a century ago, there lived 
 in Eome two men of equal age. The 
 first, from one of the poorest families, had 
 become a rich banker. The second, from 
 one of the oldest and highest families, had 
 become a poor Noble. As the necessities of 
 the Duke increased, he borrowed largely of 
 the banker. Being unable to repay, the 
 banker proposed to purchase of the Duk© 
 one of his best estates and oldest titles, with 
 the right of redemption, within fifty years. 
 The Duke recoiled. But time and want se- 
 cured the bargain. The fifty years were 
 almost passed. These men were long since 
 dead. The second son of the banker had in- 
 herited the old purchased estate and title of 
 his father. His Palace is entered from the 
 Court yard of our hotel. The son of the old 
 Noble, poor and disconsolate, went to Eng- 
 land. He told his story to the young Nobil- 
 ity. "But," said they, "why do you not re- 
 trieve your fortunes and titles?" "I have 
 no profession and no business." "But you 
 must retrieve them by an alliance." "Yes, 
 but who will have me?" "Anybody, you 
 
65 
 
 are from the oldest and noblest family in 
 Rome; we will introduce you this evening 
 to the young Russian heiress." He was in- 
 troduced, was pleased, told his story frankly 
 and was married. Hastening back to Rome, 
 he entered the Palace of the Banker Duke, 
 and to his utter amazement, laid upon his 
 table a bag of gold, ^nd demanded his estate 
 
 and title. And now the Duke of B is 
 
 plam Mr. T., and all Rome rejoices in the 
 transaction. We were the more interested 
 in this story from the tact that we had letters 
 of introduction to the ex Duke's brother, 
 who is the richest man in Rome. Through 
 the pecuniary aid he has rendered the gov- 
 ernment, he has secured to himself the title 
 of Prince. 
 
 We cannot leave Rome without inviting 
 you to accompany us on a days excursion 
 upon the old Appian Way. This Way was 
 built three hundred years before Christ and 
 through the efforts of Pius IX is uncovered 
 for many miles. If you are not interested 
 in sights now to be seen, you may close your 
 eyes and meet Horace, or Caesar or Virgil on 
 their way from Brundusium, or St. Paul on 
 his way from Puteoli, or the Roman Legions 
 returning home in gladness and triumph. — 
 
 Before passing the gateway, we stopped at 
 9 
 
m 
 
 the Batlis of Caracal la. One of the p:reat 
 aqueducts that still stalk across the Cam- 
 pagna brought the water to these bath*. — 
 There were accommodations here for sixteen 
 hundred bathers, and the most splendid pro- 
 vision lor-every kind of diversion. It is the 
 "walk of a mile around these ruins. Here are 
 slill immense labyrinths, massive arches, 
 enormous pillars and a mosaic pavement of 
 green porphyry and white marble. On the 
 opposite side of the way we entered the 
 tomb of the Scipios. By the light of lurches 
 we passed dovva through dark caves to the 
 place where was lound the sarcr.phagus of 
 L. Scipio Barbatus, now in the Vatican. — 
 This tomb, discovered about 80 years ago, 
 was entirely concealed tor- 2100 years. Near 
 to this tomb we entered a Columbaria. This 
 is a square cavity in the earth, like a cellar, 
 25 teet deep. In little niches around this 
 square, were arranged the urns where Au- 
 gustus deposited the burned bodies of his 
 slaves. We took a small bone from one of 
 these urns. Passing out upon the Campagna 
 through the Pot ta San Sebastiano, we rode 
 by a long successi m of ruined tombs covered 
 with plants and ivy. Turning from the Ap- 
 pian way, we wandered over fields till we 
 reached a little spring, running irom the bot- 
 
m 
 
 torn of a steep bank cohered with the ruins of 
 the Ten pie of Bacchus. Here is the Foun- 
 tain of Egeria. Numa consecrated it to the 
 muses. We desecrated it to the practical bu- 
 siness of eating, drinking and bathing. 
 
 Returning to the Appian Way, we stopped 
 next at the Circus of Romulus. The walls 
 are stiU standing around along parallelogram. 
 It held eighteeu thousand spectators. Here 
 may yet be traced all the arrangements for 
 the race of the chariots and the erowning of 
 the yictor. Directly overhanging this Circus 
 on the Appiaa Way, rises the tomb of Cecil- 
 ia Metella. It stands on a stream of lava. 
 It is a circular tower, seventy feet in diame- 
 ter and fifty feet high. The walls are twen- 
 ty-five feet thick. There is no tomb like this 
 outside of Rjme. It was built before the 
 time of Christ, for the wife of the rich Crce- 
 sus, who was the rival and afterwards the 
 colleague of Pompey, in the first triumvirate. 
 The sarcophagus is in a Palace at Rome, the 
 urn is in Hampton Court Palace, England. — 
 ^'How lived, how loved, how died she?" 
 
 Returning by a different route, we visited 
 the Church of St. Paul's. It stands a mile 
 and a quarter from the citv gate. It was 
 once the most splendid churches in Italy. In 
 the year 251 the body ot St. Paul was said 
 
68 
 
 to have beea removed to this place. On the 
 16!,h of July, 1823, the body of the church 
 was completely destroyed by fire. Since 
 then, K ngs. Princes, and Popes have spent 
 millions of money in its rec )nstruction. It is 
 remarkable for its pillars, and its mosaic por- 
 traits of tlie Eoman Pontiffs. 
 
 We saw the Pyramid of Cains Ccstus, 125 
 feet high, and the Enghsh Cemetery, with its 
 aff cting mementoes uf Keats, Shelley, and a 
 host of other unfortunate travelers. We passed 
 the ruins of the old bridge where, 600 years 
 before Christ, Hor.-vtius Cocles held the Kmg 
 of Etruria and his army in check until the 
 bridge behind him was broken down, and 
 where, in spite ol wounds, and darts, and ar- 
 mor, he swam to the Roman shore. We also 
 passed the Temple of Vesta, with its Httle 
 circular core, sui rounded by nineteen marble 
 columns. 
 
 And thus, after work hard enough for a 
 day laborer, we returned, not to our beds, 
 but to our dmner. Then came the prome- 
 nade and music of Pincian Hill. Then a nine 
 o'clock tea with our artist friend, Mr. Thomp- 
 son, and then our Sketches. Knowing that 
 your benevolence will ask nothing more of 
 us to night, I subscribe myself 
 
 Very truly your friend, W. W. N. 
 
NO. XI, 
 
 EoME, June It, IS.*)!. 
 
 Dear Friends : — Kome is a great burial 
 ground. Every time we step we move the 
 dust of life. We bad expected to 'find it dull 
 and gloomy. But since crossing the Atlantic, 
 we have nowhere enjoyed such a eelingof 
 home. The children have met old school- 
 mates, and we have all met old friends. Our 
 Italian Frenchman from Edinburgh has been 
 constantly with us, and '* Jones, Smith and 
 Brown," have roomed in the same ball. We 
 have numbered among our friends fifty 
 Americans and many Englishrijen. We have 
 met many of them at the same table. Mr. 
 Bryant, the Poet, President Lubaree of Mid- 
 dlebury College, Rev. Mr. Spauldmg of New 
 Yoik city, Prof. Green of Princeton, N. J., 
 Mr. Salsbury ot Mass., Judge Buling of Ya.^ 
 and many other genilemen with their fami- 
 lies, have been among our truly agreeable ac- 
 quantances. 
 
 Before leaving Rome, I must allude to one 
 or two objects more, of striking interest. In 
 one of our excursions we visited the cat^- 
 combs. I wish I could convey to you some- 
 
70 
 
 thing of the thrilling interest we felt, in 
 groping through these vast subterranean pas- 
 sages, once the hiding place of persecuted 
 Christians. We entered these winding laby- 
 rinths throu^^h the church of St. Sebastian, 
 two miles from the city gate, on the Appian 
 Way. These passages are said to run over 
 thirty miles, and to have an outlet at the Fo- 
 rum, at the Mediterranean, and at Albano. — 
 These caverns were undoubtedly made for 
 the purp(>se of excavating the dry porous 
 volcanic stone. We found rooms that were 
 used for chapels and niches that were used 
 for graves. We wandered round and down 
 these deep labyrinths, completely absorbed 
 in c<^ntemplating the condition of these early 
 sufferers for Christ. On awaking from our 
 piimitive dream, we found ourselves in the 
 bowels of the earth, entirely lost. We re- 
 menjbered that a large party, had entered 
 these passages, some years ago, that had nev- 
 €r come out. We were accompanied by 
 some strange looking Monks. Had they 
 chosen, they had only to lead us on, extin- 
 guish our tapers, take our money, and leave 
 us to ourselves. And it was a real relief, 
 when, after some mysterious wanderings, in 
 apparently the wrong direction, we finally 
 discerned the faiut ghmmers of returning 
 
71 
 
 nun light. We must not omit the Pantheon. 
 It IS the finest old Rotunda, the only pre- 
 served Ten)p]e, and the w rst located Build- 
 ing, in all Rome. It is near to the Corso, in 
 the midst of a vegetable market. Every 
 body has seen a picture of this once Pagan 
 Temple. Its Portico is most admirable, its 
 Pome is perfect. The diameter of the Ro- 
 tunda is 143 feet, the top of the Dome is 143 
 feet from the floor. In the top of the Dome 
 is a circular opening, 28 feet in diameter, 
 where the light and the rain pour down up- 
 on the porphery pavement. It was built by 
 Agrippa, 27 years before Christ. It is espec- 
 ially attractive to Travele s, as the appro- 
 prate burial place of that grand embodiment 
 of beauty and genius, the immortal Raphael. 
 
 " Shrine of all Saints and temple of all Gods, 
 From Jove to Jesus— 
 
 Sanctuary and home 
 
 Of art and piety— Pun theon ! pride'of Rome !" 
 
 Near to the Church of St. John Laterau 
 there is a building containing twenty eight 
 steps, said to be the stairs which Jesus passed 
 over when descending from the Judgment 
 Hall of Pontius Pilate. It is considered an act 
 of merit to pass up these stairs upon one's 
 knees. In the present state of the fashions 
 It is exceedingly difficult for ladies to perform 
 this feat, with, becoming grace and propriety. 
 
72 
 
 And it is one of the most ludicrous sights of 
 Rome to see persons of divers age, sex and 
 size, passing thiough tiiis ceremony in com- 
 pany. At I be bead of this stairway there is 
 a chapel, said to be filled'^wlth relics, which 
 we are perniitled^to inspect through the iron 
 bars. While standing upon these steps we 
 were reminded of Luther, npon this very spot. 
 He had heard that these stairs were miracu- 
 lously transported from Jerusalem, and wish- 
 ing to obtain the indulgen3e promised by the 
 Pope to all^who ascended them stairs upon 
 their knees, he w^as conscientiously and la- 
 boriously dragging himselt up, when sudden- 
 ly, as with a voice of thunder, the \vords 
 seemed to ring in his ears, "The just shall 
 live by faith." Instantly he sprang to his 
 feet and fled frcn the scene. Luther came to 
 Rome an honest, good Catholic. He said 
 Mass and engaged in the relig'ous services of 
 tlie church with great zeal. He had expect- 
 ed to find tbis foundation of the church a 
 seat of purity and love. But he was con- 
 stantly shocked by the irreverence and pri- 
 vate scandal of the ecclesiastics, and by the 
 open vice of the populace. He relates many 
 instances of such impiety, and seeing RomCy 
 more than any other circumsttace in his 
 life, made Luther a Protestant. 
 
I 78 
 
 Some persons become Catholics at Rome. 
 Their imaginations are taken captive by 
 these grand old Cathedrals, with the dim 
 light of their candles and the strong odor of 
 their censers, their statues and paintings, 
 their music and vestments, their antiquity 
 and relics. It is to them a religion of beau- 
 ty and sentiment. 
 
 Others see little in this worship but art 
 and form. Scarcely a word can be heard 
 from the officiating Priests. It is to them a 
 strange pantomine upon the stage. And 
 then so many contribution boxes are passing 
 roun(], asking money for the poor, money for 
 your chair, money for the service, money for 
 souls in purgatory. The appearance of the 
 worshippers is peculiar. Some seem devout, 
 some seem heartless, one person will hand 
 you his business card and then return to his 
 knees, one will follow your every movement 
 with his head turning towards you, while his 
 lips are moving, and we often see persons 
 upon their knees in a church after whisper- 
 ing and smiling in the best mood possible, 
 resuming their prayers. And then this se- 
 curing the favor of Grod, by so many prayers 
 and so much money, by kissmg crosses and 
 
 by scrambling up stairs upon ones kne^s. 
 10 
 
^ 74 
 
 And these wonderful miracles, perform- 
 ed by Priests, Relics and Bambinos.— 
 The Catholic religion in Great Britain and 
 America, is very different from what it is in 
 Rome and Naples ; and yet, the true Iruits of 
 the system are in these Italian cities. The 
 state of society there would periectly horrify 
 an American Romanist of refinement and in- 
 telligence. But these are the fruits of a relig- 
 ion that has had full sway for centuries. 
 
 On Corpus Christi day, I sat under the 
 Colonades of St. Peter's, by the side of our 
 late American Minister to one of the most 
 distinguished Courts of Europe. He had 
 spent the winter at Naples and Rome, pur- 
 chasing paiatings for his private gallery. He 
 said to me, ^'I was educated in the Cathohc 
 school at Greorgetown, D. C. I came to Italy 
 without a prejudice. I have mingled freely 
 with ecclesiastics and with the people. One 
 of the Priests has pressed me to avow myself 
 a Romanist, — but I said to him, 'The fruits of 
 your system stand in my way. Here are my 
 children; you may, perhaps, influence them. 
 But upon me, all your arguments are lost, — 
 for the moment I open that door, and look 
 into that street, I am met by such a dark 
 vision of filth and rags, of deformity and 
 
is 
 
 Starvation, of hideous deception and disgust- 
 ing crime, that I can never b© a Romanist in 
 Italy, never J never. ^ " 
 
 Tery truly your friend, 
 
 W. W. N. 
 
NO. XII. 
 
 Pka, June IS, 1858. 
 Bear Friends : — We left Rome in compa- 
 ny with a very agreeable party irom Brook- 
 lyn, N. Y. As all the Diligences for Civita 
 Yecchia were occupied by the suite of the Ex 
 Queen of Spain, we chartered two Yetturini. 
 It was reported that 80 ships had been wreck- 
 ed and 300 lives had been lost during our last 
 terrific night upon the Mediterranean. And 
 yet we preferred the sea to the miasma, rob- 
 bers, and fatigue of the land. On reaching 
 the half-way house, at Paoli, there were one 
 or two small rows of wretched buildings, 
 filled with fleas, filth and beggars. We ap- 
 plied, in vain, for some relreshment. From 
 what we have seen of the Campagna, it is a 
 profound mystery to us how Rome is sup- 
 plied with provisions. 
 
 During the last half century the population 
 of Rome has varied from 118,000 to 180,000 
 At the last census there were 178,000. The 
 increase is found to depend, not upon births, 
 but upon emigration. But how are they sup- 
 ported? Grazing animals are abundant, but 
 very small crops are raised. One man in Rome 
 
owns fifty thousand acres of land, and thi 
 whole 444000 acres is owned by less than 
 two hundred proprietors. When the harvest 
 is to be gathered, peasants from the moun- 
 tains do the work. They sleep upon the 
 open fields. Multitudes sink in the effort or 
 C'ctrry away the seeds of death. The reapers 
 who escape make about five dollars. But if 
 there is a supply of food, how do the inhabit 
 tants of Eome get it ? The great mass of 
 beggars and workmen live upon the vast 
 number of travellers that visit Rome. Con^ 
 tributions are also made for the support of thi^ 
 seat of Catholicism. Ecclesiastics are excessr 
 ively numerous, and have the best support. —tt 
 How far this terrible ruin, curse, and desola- 
 tion are the fruits of the system of religion, 
 each one must judge lor himself. The pov-, 
 erty and want of Rome and Naples are all the 
 same, notwithstanding the difference of theip 
 surroundings, American emigrants havQ 
 managed worse places thaa the Campagna 
 
 On entering Civita Vecchia, for the third 
 time, I stored up enormous quantities of pa- 
 tience and silver, for the purpose of gliding 
 through the vilest set of sharpers I have ever 
 met. This little artificial harbor, with it» 
 round towers, is most charming. It waa 
 
?8 
 
 founded by Trajan and improved by Michael 
 Angelo. 
 
 One of the most distinguished Palaces we 
 examined in Rome was the Palazzo Pamphili 
 Doria. At opposite ends of an immense hall 
 stood the busts of the Prince and Princess. — 
 From those busts we recognized the Prince 
 Doria on board our steamer. The Princess 
 was an English lady, from the family of Tal- 
 bot. They were going, with a large family 
 and suite of priests, doctors and teachers, to 
 their princely summer Palace in G-enoa. — 
 Whenever they moved the whole suite were 
 in motion, hat in hand. We found them very 
 simple in their manners. The children were 
 •tjtikative and amusing. The Princess, sad 
 -and feeble, was wasting away in a decline. 
 
 Many years ago there was in the moui-- 
 tains of Italy a large organi25ed company of 
 banditti, who lived upon the fruits of robbery 
 and murder. They divided themselves into 
 three bands, and, upon the stipulated condi- 
 tions of life and liberty, they surrendered 
 themselves to the Pope, the Duke of Tusca^ 
 tiy and the King of Naples. The leader Gas- 
 peroni, and his party fell into the hands of 
 the Pope. For several years they were con- 
 fined at Civita Yecchia. As G-asperoni is re- 
 lated to Antonelli, the Pope's Prime Minis- 
 
79 
 
 ter, they have recently been removed into 
 the interior. Gasperoni complained to some of 
 our party that while even the King of Naples 
 had kept his engagement the Pope had broken 
 his oath, and it may have been v^ith reason, 
 for when asked by one of our company what 
 he thought of his past life, he said : ^'I would 
 kill you if I had a chance." 
 
 We were greatly pleased with Leghorn. — 
 It has an artificial harbor with a strong sea 
 wall. The rooms of our hotel were large 
 and princely. The breakfast was capital, the 
 charges were moderate. Here may be seen 
 the influence of English capitalists. So free 
 is commerce that even Bibles find their way 
 into this port. Jews and Turks, Catholics 
 and Protestants, are everywhere met in the 
 streets. Flags of all nations are flying in the 
 harbor. Its wide streets and well built 
 houses and enlarged harbor give to Leghorn 
 an appearanc of thrift we have nowhere seen 
 in Italy. But alas I every Italian govern- 
 ment must be cursed with a ^^ Protector.'^ -^ 
 Austrian bayonets are gleaming over, the 
 -barracks and Austrian soldiers are parading 
 the streets. We had entered no cars since 
 leaving France. : On seeing a locomotive our 
 whole party of eleven, were as happy as 
 
80 
 
 children. In lialf an hour we reached the 
 old city of Pisa. 
 
 Pisa was once near the sea. It contained 
 150,000 inhabitants. Its present population 
 is 28,000. Its principal streets are on the 
 banks of the Arno. As there are no build- 
 ings on the river side of the streets, the town 
 has a spacious and airy aspect. The great 
 objects ®f attraction in Pisa are altogether on 
 one side of the town. The Cathedral, the 
 Baptistry, the Bell Tower and the Cemetery. 
 • Unlike anything we have seen in Italy , we 
 find this charming cluster of architectural 
 gems, all by themselves upon a carpet of 
 green. We will first enter the Cathedral; 
 here swings the great lamp. Three hundred 
 years ago, one of the city boys was attracted 
 by that motion ; he remembered it, and 
 when a young man this same Galileo in- 
 vented the pendulum. The Baptistry is an 
 immense circular building, 180 feet high. It 
 has a baptismal font in the centre and an ex- 
 quisitely worked pulpit of marble upon the 
 side. Here we are startled by a loud whis- 
 per from the guide, clearly ani fully repeated 
 on the opposite side of the building. We 
 now pass to the Cemetery. Unlike other bur- 
 ial places, this Campo Santo is a piece of 
 
81 
 
 ground four hundred feet long surrounded by 
 a colonnade closed upon the outside. Under 
 the colonnade persons of great distinction 
 have been buried. Tiie inner rectangle is 
 exposed to the sky. The soil, to the depth 
 of ten feet, is said to have been brought from 
 the Holy Land, in the time of the Crusades, 
 It is asserted that in this soil a dead body 
 will be turned into dust in twenty four hours* 
 But here comes the Bell Tower; the leaning 
 tower of Pisa ! Who has not heard of it, 
 seen its picture and speculated about it, from 
 his childhood ? I would almost as soon have 
 missed St. Peters, as this chaming, wonder- 
 ful relic. Ic has been compared to the Tow- 
 er of Babel. It is built of pure white marble, 
 about 180 feet high. There are eight suc- 
 cessions of columns and arches, one above 
 the other. It still has seven bells. The top 
 hangs over a vertical line from the base about 
 fourteen feet. We instinctively stand away 
 from the leaning side. There are three rea- 
 sons for believing that the foundation sunk 
 before the tower was completed. The land 
 is spongy ; the Cathedral walls have sunk, 
 and in the upper stories the pillars are longer 
 upon the lower side, with the evident design 
 of having the centre of gravity within the 
 
 base. From the top of this most graceful 
 11 
 
82 
 
 and fascinating tower, Gtalileo experimented 
 upoQ the descent uf falling bodies. Here for 
 the last 600 years, millic.ns ol beings have 
 looked off upon tliis soft Italian view. Be- 
 low are the green and festooned fields and 
 the winding Arno. In the distance are the 
 Appen nes. Four miles away is the clear blue 
 sea. and in the dim horizon Corsica appears 
 like a fading cloud. 
 
 Very truly your Iriend, "W. W. N. 
 
NO. XIII, 
 
 Florence, June 14, 1858. 
 
 *'0f all tbe fairest cities of the earth, 
 !None is so fair as Florence, 
 
 Search -within. 
 Without, all is enchantment ! 'Tis the Past 
 ntendinf^ with the Present; and in turn 
 Each has the mastery." 
 
 It is only in Italy, dear friends, that we 
 have realized the wonderful value of a rail- 
 way. In three short hours we have passed 
 the fifty miles from Pisa to Florence. Three 
 hours relief trom beggars and extortioners ! 
 Leaving the marble hills and quarries of Carra- 
 ra on our left, we have passed over a l;>w val- 
 ley. The land is irrigated and drained by 
 quiet little rilla of water, gliding along be- 
 tween banks of green. Small, rectangular 
 fields are everywhere surrounded hy trees, 
 between which vines are hanging in graceful 
 festoons, giving to the whole country a culti- 
 vated and fairy aspect. We find ourselves 
 very comf )rtable at our Hotel de New York. 
 Many of our old friends are with us. We 
 look out upon the Arno. The sides of the 
 "Streets nearest the river, as at Pisa, have no 
 buildings. Poets have painted Florence as an 
 unsullied picture of enchanted beauty. W^ 
 
64 
 
 do not find it so. There are here magnificent 
 Palaces, Churches and Galleries. The out- 
 side of many of these is unfinished. Many of 
 the streets are narro v and crooked. Many of 
 the buildings look like biirracks. They were 
 erected in the middle ages, with their thick 
 walls and narrow windows. 
 
 There are four grand bridges across the 
 river. Upon one there are shops on each 
 side, and the whole way across glitters with 
 jewelry. Above this there is an arched and 
 secret gallery, by which the Grand Dnke 
 may pass unnoticed from one Palace to anoth- 
 er* 
 
 The environs of Florence are a scene of be* 
 witching beauty. They are more than fancy 
 painted them. We have viewed them from 
 Fiesole. This is a steep, high hill, covered 
 with cypresses, vines, olive groves and fig 
 trees. We passed up and around this roman- 
 tic eminence upon a perfectly smooth road. — 
 To preserve a regular grade one side of the 
 hill is often walled up twenty feet. A peas- 
 ant boy leaped down these walls, like a rab'r it, 
 to hand us figs and flowers. Upon the top 
 of this hill is an old city and an old fortress 
 from whose highest tower Galileo took his 
 nightly views. Here the Roman Cataline se- 
 creted his treasure, and in this vicinity his 
 
66 
 
 conspiracy was crushed. With the exception 
 of the Camaldoli Convent, at Naples, the view 
 from this summit is the most magnificent I 
 have seen in Italy. Seventeen miles distant, 
 away up the wooded sidts of the Apennines, 
 is Milton's Vallan^brosia, where Ariosto 
 dreamed, and Dantk halted, in his flight from 
 benighted, ungrateful Florence. 
 
 The whole valley of the Arno 's co/ered 
 over with gardens and country palaces. On 
 the banks of the river, in the bosom of the 
 valley, Florence itself sparkles in a soft Ital^ 
 ian sun. Lofty towers and graceful arches, 
 Palace buildings and Palace gardens rise 
 from the city, while the grand cupola of the 
 Cathedral, larger than St. Peters itself, swells 
 up from the bright centre. But the painting 
 of such a picture as this must be left to one 
 of the geniuse-^ of the place. The refined soul 
 of Raphael alone could take in the full beau- 
 ties of such a scene, and, dipping hijs brush in 
 t'le colors of the rainbovf, he alone could re** 
 produce it upon canvass. 
 
 I have learned a few things respecting the 
 present aspect of freedom and religion in 
 Tuscany. For the last five centuries Tus- 
 cany has enjoyed a degree of freedom un- 
 known to some of the Italian States. The 
 
Medici have been Hch and liberal patrons of 
 the arts. In later years the people have be- 
 come dissatisfied with the restraints upon 
 their liberties. In the revolu'ions of 184:9, a 
 statue of the Grand Duke was thrown down 
 at Leghorn. The Duke granted to the peo- 
 ple a constitution, but fearful of his own 
 safety he and the Pope fled to Gaeta, a Nea- 
 politan town upon the ^Mediterranean. The 
 Tuscan Assembly, wishing the Dake to reign 
 under the constitution, invited him to return 
 upon this condition. He returned. The 
 fortresses are manned with Austrian troops 
 and the Duke has forg >tten the constitution. 
 
 I thank God that I have something hope- 
 ful to write you of the religious condition of 
 Tuscany — something more, perhaps, than 
 would be prudent to pen. I was searching 
 for the house and prison of Rosa Mad^ei and 
 her husband, who were persecuted in this 
 city for l-eading the Bible. I found a little 
 company of di-ciples in an upper room. For 
 weeks my soul had been starving upon the 
 miserable husks of Southern Italy. And it 
 was with gushing t«ars and a palpitating 
 heart, that I sat down at the communion ta- 
 ble with the disciples of Jesus. 
 
 I learned that the Mad^i, banished from 
 Tuscany, were living in Nice. That they 
 
87 
 
 were greatly beloved by the people. That 
 the bitterness of their persecution had de- 
 fea ed the object sought. It hid aroused 
 the civilized world. It had awakened the 
 attention of the people, and had broken the 
 power of the Jesuits. Notwithstariding the 
 laws, the Priests and the Police, Bibles find 
 their way into Tuscany. A great work is in 
 progress here. Thousands of Italians are 
 reading the word of God, and more than 
 two hundred persons are the professed dis- 
 ciples of ('hrist. There was to be a little 
 meeting of about forty of these Christians in 
 an upper room that evening. I begged to be 
 present, but was told it would be the extreme 
 of rashness. There are three persons now in 
 the prisons of Florence for Bible reading. — 
 There are said to be ten thousand Priests 
 here, one to every ten persons* Why do 
 they not elevate and relieve the people ? — 
 And yet it is not as bad as in the Pope's do- 
 minions. 
 
 Last year, the Pope was up here, and with 
 the Jesuits, extorted from the Duke a prom* 
 ise to abolish some laws made by his grands 
 father, giving to the Catholic Bishops some 
 rights to ecclesiastical reform. He pressed 
 the measure upon his ministers. They im- 
 
 ^ 
 
88 
 
 med'ately resigned, saying, "You must gov- 
 ern Tuscany without us." The me»sute was 
 abandoned. The pressure of Christian civil- 
 ization has some weight here. The other 
 day, the British Minister, Lord Normandy 
 heard of a man imprisoned for reading the 
 Bible He called on the Duke and simply 
 said, "May it please your Royiil Highness, it 
 will not do in this 19ih century, to imprison 
 a man for reading a book, and especially for 
 reading the Bible." That evening the man 
 was released. The eldest son of the Huke, 
 now 22 years old, says if he ever reigns, 
 there shall be liberty of conscience. But 
 God only knows and God alone can bring 
 deliverance. He can raise up liberal Rulers. 
 He can raise up Luthers and Melancthons to 
 enlighten and lead the people. 
 
 The People ! how 1 pity them. Though 
 ignorant and bigoted, they are always kind, 
 polite and impulsive. They have a refined 
 taste, a beautiful climate, and a rich soil, but 
 they are cursed with a military and Priestly 
 despotism, and no man comes to their rescue. 
 Poor, miserable, beautiful Italy ! May God 
 bring thee speedy deliverance. 
 
 Truly yours, W. W. N. 
 
NO. XIV. 
 
 Florbncb, June 15, 1858, 
 My Dear Friends :— The finest things in 
 this city are statues, paintings, churches 
 palaces, the Laurentian Library, and the 
 Museum of Natural History— things that 
 should be seen and not described. 
 
 Near to the old Palazzo Yecchio, with its 
 dizzy bell-tower, is the celebrated gallery 
 called the Uffizii. In this are the Venus de 
 Mediei, the portraits of great painters, and a 
 .vast collection of art, next in size to the Vat- 
 ican itself. A weak, rich politician, by the 
 name of Pitti, built a rival Palace upon the 
 other side of the river. This Palace soon fell 
 into the hands of Cosmo I. It is still occu- 
 pied by the Grrand Duke. Here is a most 
 charming collection of five hundred pictures, 
 in princely apartments, thrown open to the 
 public without even the formality of a fee.— 
 In the rear are the Boboli Gardens. Their 
 style is formal, but in the terrible heat of 
 yesterday we were glad to walk up and 
 around this splendid hill, through walks of 
 trimmed foliage and under roofs of thick 
 
 shade. 
 12 
 
90 
 
 The Cathedral, Baptistry, and Bell-tower 
 are near the centre of the city. The dome of 
 the Cathedral is the largest in the world. — 
 The Bell-tower is 120 feet higher than tho 
 leaniniT tower of Pisa. Michael Angelo 
 said that the doors of the Baptistry were 
 worthy to be the j^atf s of Paradise ! We 
 have seen two or three very small infants 
 baptized in ihis building. Warm water is 
 poured over the head of the child, accompa- 
 nied with a long reading and many formali- 
 ties. 
 
 In Florence the livesof great men gone are 
 to us a reality, for we see not only their 
 works, but their houses and their tombs. — 
 Tasso has left no dwelling at Rome, and the 
 house of Raphael was there destroj^ed by the 
 Revolution of 1849. But in Florence we see 
 the house of Michael Agelo, much as ho 
 left it, and what is better still, occuj led by hia 
 descendants. Here, too, is the dwelling of 
 Galileo. 
 
 But of all the places in the city, the 
 Church of Santa Croce has thrilled me most. 
 This is the Mausoleum of Genius. The latest 
 genius of note buried here is Alfieri. He 
 was a Piedmontese Count, and came to this 
 city as a writer of tragic and ccmic poetry. 
 Though deficient in ornament and beauty^ h« 
 
91 
 
 was undoubtedly the greatest tragic poet in 
 Italy. He was a warm advocate of freedom. 
 He married the Countess of Albany, the wid- 
 ow of the Eng'ish Pretender. He died in 
 1803. He and the Countess both rest in this 
 church, and their tombs are beatitiful speci- 
 mens of art. But the tomb nearest to the 
 door is that of Michael Angelo. Here we 
 are uwed by the grandeur and comprehen- 
 siveness of genius. For he was not merely a 
 painter. He w^as a sculptor, an architect and 
 a poet. With the brush he has given us the 
 terrific images that Dante painted with his 
 pen. His architecture is grand and massive. 
 He was a lofty spirit. He was employed at 
 Rome, by several of the Popes, as a painter, 
 as a sculptor, and as the architect of St. Pe- 
 ter's His lectures, speeches and poetry are 
 still extant. Of course he was envied. I 
 heard an amusing story of him yesterday, at 
 the Uffizii. A fine statue was found. His de- 
 tractors sa'd to him : **No doubt, in your own 
 opinion, you could have equalled this master- 
 piece of antiquity." Time rolled on and an- 
 other piece of statuary was dug from the 
 ground — a Cupid, with one arm gone.— 
 While his detractors were in ecstacies over 
 this apparent antique, Michael Angelo 
 brought from his Studio a fresh arm, and fit- 
 
92 
 
 ting it to the shoulder, proved that it was his 
 statue. Thus even were his enemies silenced. 
 He died about the middle of the 16th centu- 
 ry, and is buried here. Here, also, is the 
 tomb of Dante. And, as we lean over it, 
 what vivid associations come thronging over 
 us. What images of death, purgatory and 
 hell. What thoughts of blighted love, of 
 banishment and of woe. Like Michael An- 
 G' Lo his genius was bold, gigantic and com- 
 prehensive. He was philosopher, poet, poli- 
 tician and warrior. 
 
 Dante lived in the stormiest period of the 
 Italian Republics. He was one of the Chief 
 Magistrates of Florence. The Pope of Rome 
 interfered in opposition to his party. — 
 Dante resisted and was banished forever 
 from his beloved city. His property was 
 confiscated and for years he was a restless 
 wanderer. Bnt the weight of his troubles 
 stirred his mighty genius to its lowest depth. 
 It drove him into a great imaginary world of 
 his own. He is the oldest and most original 
 poet in the Italian language. Among the in- 
 mates of his hell are several Popes and Car- 
 dinals. Hence at his death, in Ravenna, 
 Pope John XXII demanded his body that 
 the dust of his burned bones might be scat- 
 tered tp the winds. Florence also demanded 
 
,98 
 
 his body that it might be honorably interred 
 in the home of his birth. Ravenna resisted 
 the demand of both. She keeps the body. — 
 Florence keeps the cenotaph. Dante was 
 once invited to return to his home, on con- 
 dition ot a public penance. No, said the 
 stern Italian, I shall never return to Flor^ 
 ence, but in full possession of my fame and 
 honor. He died in the early part of the 14th 
 century. There are over sixty editions of 
 his vrorks and commentators without num- 
 ber. One of his portraits is suspended in 
 the Cathedral. But a few years ago his best 
 portrait was discovered in an old palace, now 
 used as a prison. For ages, this portrait has 
 been buried under a coat of whitewash. It 
 reresents him in the vigor of manhood. It 
 was rescued from its long oblivion through 
 the efforts of Englishmen and Americans. 
 
 Near to the cenotaph of Dante is the tomb 
 of Galileo. But the sun is declining , and 
 we must away to the country ; for, beyond 
 all questioD, the best part of Florence is with- 
 out the walls. The finest drive is down the 
 Casine, a wooded park, two miles long, upon 
 the banks of the Arno. There are eleven of 
 us in two open phaetons, now starting for a 
 farewell drive. Will you go with us? In 
 this park there are different roads for car- 
 
u 
 
 riages, ns there are for pedestrians and 
 equestrians, all as stnooth as a floor. Hfre 
 are hefiges anl groves, and pasture ground 
 for irame. Here are sparkling foutttain s and 
 speaking statues ; here are verdurous banks 
 ofvdvet softness, an i hid len bowers in 
 silent forests. The sweet perfume of flowers 
 greets u« ; the genial airs of summer fan us ; 
 the soft Italian sky is above us ; the rich 
 tints of an Italian sunset, streaming down 
 the long valley from Vailamorosa's height, 
 are casting their net-work of golden light 
 through the dark fo'iage, while they linger 
 in full splendor, upon the heights and towers 
 *of Fiesole. The waters of the gliding Arno 
 are here and ^here visible, while far in the 
 distance pheasants and deer are sporting and 
 bounding away. Shall I confess to the fact? 
 For once in my life, I am intoxicited! intox- 
 icated with beauty. There is a grave Pro- 
 fessor in the carri ige fo lowing. As we roll 
 along through this sequestered Eden, moved 
 by a simultaneous impulse, we both together 
 start to our feet, and waving our hats to 
 each other, shout aloud, gorgeous! magnifi" 
 tent! diviner Yes, divine — for it is the 
 creation of that same God who is fitting up 
 ihe sweet home of those shining ones, 
 
95 
 
 **Trhere gardens and where goodly walki 
 Continually are green, 
 
 Where grow sacii sweet and pleasant flowers 
 As nowbereelse are seen." 
 
 As we drive into the open circle, where 
 parties meet for conversation and refresh- 
 ment, the martial bands greet us with such 
 strains of swelling music, and ihe grotesque 
 flower-girls give us such cheers and throw into 
 our carriages such radiant bouquets of 
 acacias, orangv^blossoms and laurel, that we 
 seem to be Princes with a royal cortege, 
 moving along in triumphal procession. 
 
 Very truly your friend, W. W. N, 
 
NO. XV. 
 
 Venice, June 17, 1868. 
 Dear Friends: — Very early in the morn- 
 ing we made our reluctant conge at the 
 hotel in Florence and went round to the 
 Diligence office. These carriages are as un- 
 deviating as a railroad car. They drop you 
 or take you up, baggage and all, in the mid- 
 dle of the street As the price of seats varies 
 we found the whole square in commotion, 
 getting the passengers located. Some were 
 entering the rotonde, some the interior, some 
 were climbing over the front wheels into the 
 coupe, and others were mounting into the 
 banquette, upon ladders. Just outside the 
 city we entered the cars for Pistola. This 
 is a small town a few leagues from Florence, 
 at the foot of the Apennines, renowned m 
 history as the spot where pistols were first 
 invented. Here our Diligence descended 
 from the baggage car, and we commenced 
 our ascent. All this long and hot day we 
 were working our weary and suffering way 
 up and down those interminable mountains. 
 We drove into the gates of Bologna in the 
 evemng, having traveled some 75 miles. At 
 
9t 
 
 the noted Swiss Hotel, we were quite dis- 
 gusted with filth and neglect. Very early ia' 
 the morning we were awakened by the 
 sweet chimes of the Cathedral bells, close by 
 our open ^tindows. Bjlogna is nearly 3000 
 years old. The wall is covered with shrub- 
 bery and trees. The upper stories ot the 
 houses extend over the side walks. Here 
 are the longest church and the highest bell 
 tower in Europe. 
 
 Bologna was the birth and burial place df 
 GuiDO. As his Aurora, at Kome, had im- 
 pressed me as one of the most charming and 
 gracelul things I had ever seen, I was soon 
 abroad in search of his pictures. Here are 
 the fine productions of many of the old 
 masters. In the Palazzo Bacciochi there are 
 beautiful busts of the Napoleon. family. At 
 the Borghese country seat, near Rome, we 
 had seen Conova's noted Pauline. Here ia 
 another by the same artist. Few masterr 
 pieces of antiquity are more perfect. Here 
 is an ancient University, where galvanism 
 was first discovered. It has a large library 
 and many Professors. The old city contains 
 about 70,000 people. 
 
 From Bologna we traveled about 75 miles, 
 by Diligence, to Mantua. The country is 
 productive, but so perfectly fiat that ditchea 
 13 
 
98 
 
 are filled with stagnant water. Scientific 
 men have no t'ouble in accouning lor the 
 miasma of Modena and Mantuti. 'J'he heat 
 and dust and suffei ing of that day were ter- 
 rible. We Ibund no dmner. Dai ing the 
 change of horses, or ihe examination ol bag- 
 gage, we were driven into stable yards, or 
 left in the middle of the street, without the 
 si ghtest regard to our comfort. The only 
 pleasant variety in that journey was the 
 crossing of the To, The melting of Alpine 
 snows makes the river a powerful fl )od. It 
 brings down from the A'ps such quantities 
 of soil that the water is often kept in its bed 
 by artifical banks. On entering the ferry, a 
 long string of boati=, held together by a sin- 
 gle rope, was so moved by the current that 
 we were carried across. 
 
 On reaching Mantua we found the old wall 
 of the town neaily surrounded by water. It 
 is an extensive city, goiiig to decay. Its 
 inhabitants are reduced to 25.000. Here ihe 
 Elder Tasso was buried. But his remains 
 were removed by his son to Ferrara. We 
 rode out some five miles from the city over 
 a flat, wet country, to visit the bi th place ol 
 Virgil. It is still called the com m unify ol 
 Virgil. It seems to be a single farm. The 
 room which they showed us, as the place of 
 
99 
 
 his birth, is in the second story of a long, 
 narrow stone building, now used as a grana- 
 ry. Wandering over these grounds, Virgil 
 doubtless formed his taste ;or pastoral st>ng, 
 while far away among the mysterious, vol- 
 canic regions of the south he laid the scene 
 of his graver poems. 
 
 At Florence we had become acquainted 
 with Dr. CRicriTON, of Liverpool. As he was 
 traveling with his wife, son and daughter, his 
 party afforded a very agreeable companion 
 for each of us. We had passed the Appenines 
 in the same Diligence, but from Bologna they 
 came straight to Venice, through Padua.-^ 
 We went seventy miles around to see Man- 
 tua and Virgil's Commune. We would say 
 to other travelers that we were not repaid for 
 our toil, money and loss of company. 
 
 At Mantua we found a fine railroad for 
 Venice. Venice! How strange, romantic, 
 original. Venice ! city of sage doges, dark 
 gondolas, trackless streets and splendid pala- 
 ces. Venice I with its cathedral, prisons and 
 Bridge of Sierhs. How this strange city, with 
 its stranger history, Las mingled with the 
 floating visions of my life. How many weary 
 miles have we come out of our way to see 
 thee. And yet, rather than miss thee, I 
 
loo 
 
 wonld have traveled them all on foot. While 
 di earning thus in the cars, suddenly we find 
 ourselves entirely sunounded by water. The 
 mcon-beams of an early evening are dancing 
 over the waves of the Adriatic. We are 
 rushing out into the deep sea. But some- 
 thing is floating in the distance. Towering 
 spiles and gilded domes. We strike the 
 land ; we reach the depot; the baggage is ex- 
 amined. We hear the cry ol Omnibus. For- 
 getting, at the moment, that there is not a 
 hoise in Venice, it is suggested by one of the 
 pai ty that we take the Omnibus. ''It will be 
 less dreary in the night." But our Omnibus 
 was a double sized gondola. So we take our 
 b^g&ag^' into a little, long, black, hearse-like 
 boat, and glide away on the daik w^aters to- 
 wards the Hotel de la Yilie, an old Palace, 
 on the Grand Canah As there is an influx 
 of strangers, and an expectation of Royal vis- 
 itors at ihe Hotel de la Ville, we glide on and 
 around and out into the haibor. But it is 
 feai fully strange, on this first night, to be out 
 upon the great sea in so frail a thing, in seaich 
 of a home. I know of but one other Hotel. 
 We are refused at that. AVe are floating 
 there. What shall we do ? "Gondolier, will 
 you take us to some Hotel ?" ''Si, Signore." 
 He skims away over the waves, turns up to 
 
101 
 
 some wide steps, and we find a spacious home 
 in the ''Luna." 
 
 As it is scarcely nine o'clock, I propose to 
 my son a short walk. Crossing a narrow al- 
 ley and pissing under a heavy archway, to our 
 utter amazement we stumble upon one of the 
 most gorgeous and fairy-like scenes on earth. 
 A rectangle six hundred feet long and two 
 hundred feet wide. Three sides are shut in 
 by lofty buildings and brdliant shops. A 
 thousand lights are glittering here. Fr m the 
 centre of this open space sweet strains, q£ 
 martial music are pealing forth from an Aus^ 
 trian band, and throngs of people, from every 
 nation, kindred and language upon earth, are 
 walking or listening, or they are sitting and 
 chatting, and sipping their ices. And this is 
 the world-renowned St. MarkW! Here, in 
 one corner, is the great bell- tower, 323 feet 
 high, from whose dizzy eminence G-alileo 
 looked through his first telescope. And here, 
 at one end, is the mosque-like Cathedral, 
 with its domes, minarets and vaults, ri- 
 valing the magnificence of the East. The 
 church, with its roof of mosaic, its floor of 
 agate and jasper, and its 600 curious pillars. 
 The church where the bones of St. Mark re- 
 pose. And theie, by its side, is the Ducal 
 Palace, down whose stairs the bloody head 
 
 »r>4t« 
 
loft 
 
 of Faliero rolled, as it dropped from the fatal 
 block. And here is the spot where Pope Al- 
 exander III placed his foot upon the neck of 
 the kneeling Emperor Baibarossa. Here Shy- 
 lock and Othello flourished. Here the Doges 
 began and ended their official career. Here 
 tlie B i<ies of Venice were stolen and borne 
 away to sea by ruffian brigands. And here 
 
 But stop ! my brain is reeling, the lights 
 
 arc flitting, the people are going. We 
 slowly retire. I lay me down at last, and see 
 such sights as mortal man could never tell, 
 and dream such dreams as mortal pen could 
 ntver write. 
 
 Trulf your friend, W. W . N. 
 
NO. XVI. 
 
 Vbk'cb, Jure 18, 185C 
 Dear Friends : — Vei ice is juilt oq seven- 
 ty-two small islands, at the head of th^ 
 Adiiatic. It is several miles from the main 
 land. It is surrounded by a sliallow arm of 
 he sea, called the lygoous. The canals ,or 
 streets are not made by digging away the 
 eartii, but the buildings are placed upon piles 
 along the edge of the water. The sea ebbs 
 and flows directly against the f ont of the 
 buildings. There are steps into the water 
 fi om each front door, by which the inmates 
 reach the gond 'la. The Giand Canal m the 
 shape of the letter S, divides the c'ny. There 
 are some 150 small canals and 300 small 
 steep bridges. Every bu^ldin^ has one « oor 
 opening upon a narrow pathway of land. 
 These lanes are oJten business streets, not 
 ten feet wide. Ven ce was commenced^ 
 about the middle ol the fitthcent«ry. When 
 the Huns and Lombards overran Italy, th© 
 poor inhabitants escaped t<» the;?e islands. 
 
 **Lik« tbi» water fowl.. 
 They built their nests among the ocean waret"' 
 
 The questions are oiten asktid, *'wbat sup* 
 
 pxrted themr **What did thej do?"- 
 
104 
 
 They caught fish and made salt. They man- 
 ufactured artificial pearls, glass work, jew- 
 .elry and a vast variety of articles. They 
 built ships and became a great commercial 
 people. They extended their conquests over 
 the main land and over islands in the sea. — 
 At one time they were masters of Constan- 
 tinople itself. A lout 300 years ago. Venice 
 contained 200,000 inhabitants, 40,000 sailors 
 and 30,000 fishermen. Hets was one of the 
 most lich, powerful and civilized people in 
 Europe. For 250 years Venice was a Dem- 
 ocratic Republic. She then elected her first 
 leader. Dux, or Doge. In 1797 she was 
 subjected to France. In 1814 she was at- 
 tfichftd to the kingdom of Austria. Her 
 inhabitants are now reduced to about 125,- 
 000. 
 
 The first thing to be seen in Venice is St, 
 Mark's. The area of this noted place is 
 smaller than the floor of St. Peter's at Rome. 
 We pass up the great stairway of the Ducal 
 Palace, through the rooms oi state. Among 
 the splendid paintings are the portraits of all 
 the Doges but one. The ambitious Faliero, 
 having lost his head, has a Irame covered 
 with baize. Here is the secret council 
 chamber of the Ten, and the place of the 
 liion's Mouth, where secret accusations vrerp 
 
105 
 
 dropped into the rooii from the outside*— 
 The dark, small State dungeons, one below 
 another, are in that side of this building, 
 next to the canal. Our old Guide, with his 
 torch, showed us the place where the pris- 
 oner sat when executed, and the fixture in 
 the wall, where by the turning of a wheel 
 he was strangled with a rope. One of the 
 ancient keepers asserted that almost every 
 night, for thirty years, some dead body was 
 rowed away and deposited in the deep chan- 
 nel, where fishing was forbidden, on pain of 
 death. The Bridge of Sighs connects this 
 Palace with the Prisons of Venice. It was 
 formerly divided into a passage and a cell. — 
 The cell was reached from the Palace by 
 crossing the covered passage. We emerged 
 from these dark and fiendish cells, sad and 
 sick at heart. Needing some diversion we 
 fortunately remembered the old legend that 
 at 2 o'clock, St. Mark's Place would be dark^ 
 ened by the flight of doves. Por five min- 
 utes we stood there, perfect skeptics. Then 
 the great clock Torri dell Orologio struck 
 two. A bushel of grain was thrown from an 
 upper window, in one end of the square, and 
 instantly^ from every point of the compass, 
 the air was filled and darkened with pigeons, 
 flying to the spot. It reminded me of that 
 14 
 
106 
 
 bright and exultant prophesy of Isaiah, 
 where converts were to flock to Christ "as 
 the Doves to their windows." We find in 
 Venice a fine Academy of Arts. There are 
 here splendid representations of Venetian his- 
 tory and triumphs. The coloring of Titian 
 is gorgeous. His St. Peter Martyr, in the 
 Westminster Abbey of Venice, has been 
 called the third picture in the world. 
 
 On opening my window this morning 1 
 engaged for the day one of the many gondo- 
 las that were floating there. Taking our 
 guide, and young Crichton, we crossed a 
 narrow arm of the harbor to the church Sta 
 Maria della Salute, which stands upon an is- 
 land. It was built in 1631, by order of the 
 Senate, to commemorate the terrific time 
 when 60,000 people died with the plague. — 
 The form ot the church is octagonal. Here 
 the skeleton death, in marble, represents 
 the plague passing away, at the inter- 
 cession of the virgin. It is horribly im^ 
 pressive. Not far distant we entered the 
 Frari. Here are monuments of Titian and 
 Canova, the grandest artists of Venice. — 
 The story is that for centuries the only me- 
 morial of Titian was a marble slab. Canova 
 undertook to design and erect a suitable mon- 
 ument to his memory. It is a vast pyramid 
 
of white marble. The figures of several 
 mourners are about entering its open door. — 
 It was completed in 1827, but before it was 
 done Canova died and was buried himself be- 
 neath this pyramid. The Emperor of Aus- 
 tria has erected a colossal monument to Titian 
 upon the opposite side of the same church.-^ 
 By the side of this edifice are the Venetian 
 Archives, containing 295 rooms and 14,000,- 
 000 documents 
 
 We found it most delightful, gliding up the 
 Grand Canal, the Broadway of Venice, 
 meeting neither carriage or footman, without 
 dust and with no noise. Sadly we gazed 
 upon the dark palaces of Loredano and Fos- 
 cari. The legend is that Foscari was chosen 
 Doge instead of Loredano's father. When the 
 father of Loredano died he bequeathed his 
 envy and hatred of Foscari to his son. The 
 younger Loredano then entered upon his led*- 
 ger, "Francisco Foscari, debtor, for my fath- 
 er's death." He then accused the in- 
 notent son Foscari of murder, and had him 
 tortured and banished. The son return- 
 ed to see his wife and children, and 
 father. He was immediately lodged in a 
 foreign dungeon, where he soon after died. — 
 Loredano then succeeded in dethroning the 
 
108 
 
 old Doge, Poscari, who tottereJ, bare-headed, 
 down the Ducal stairs, -and died that night, 
 upon his knees, while the bells were ringing 
 in honor of his successor. Then Loredano 
 entered on his ledger, "He has paid me." — 
 Awful as the legend is, it is all true. We had 
 an opportunity to witness this Venetian tem- 
 per. Coming out of a church we heard a fu- 
 rious noise, like the altercation of a crowd. — 
 It was our guide and a boatman, quarreling 
 with the frenzy of demons, over a jostled gon- 
 dola. 
 
 We passed here the house of Othello, 
 and seemed to see Desdemona, the beautiful 
 victim of jealousy, looking from her chamber 
 window. Close by we entered the palace 
 where Byron had lived with his paramour. 
 As we picked an orange blossom from the lit- 
 tle mound, we went away sad at the degrad- 
 ed life which he lived here, grieved at 
 the terrible mischief of his Don Juan, which 
 was planned here, and horrified by the dark 
 and dismal gloom under which his briUiant 
 spirit so soon disappeared. 
 
 On reachmg the Rialto, the bridge and 
 square, immortalized by the gemus of Shak- 
 SPEARE, we looked around for the shop of Shy- 
 
109 
 
 LOCK. We saw a figure, dark and meaiS, 
 skulking by, that answered well the descrip- 
 tion of the man. 
 
 After a late dinner we started for the Ar- 
 menian Convent, some miles away, in the har- 
 bor. We passed the arsenal, once the most 
 commanding establishment of the kind in the 
 world, now frowning with Austrian cannon. 
 This convent was founded about 140 years 
 ago, by an enthusiastic Armenian. Failing 
 at home, the Senate of Venice gave him the 
 little Island of St. Lazarus, once a retreat for 
 lepers. It is close to the Lido. Here they 
 are publishing books and educating ministers 
 for Armenia. We were received with great 
 politeness. Among other things in this pros- 
 perous establishment, we were shown the au- 
 tograph of Byron, also the room and the chair 
 where he was accustomed to recite his Arme- 
 nian. 
 
 Our return to the city was one of those 
 hours of transcendantly sweet and pure en- 
 joyment, so rare in life. The toil of the day 
 was over. The fisherman was lazily drifting 
 in his gondola. The sun was setting. The 
 clear orange light seemed to envelope us as in 
 an atmosphere. The quiet sea, like a bur- 
 
110 
 
 nished mirror, reflected our forms and move- 
 ments. The hum of the city was dying in 
 the distance, and all nature seemed to be 
 breathing forth a sweet response to that mul- 
 titude of the heavenly hosts, who cried, "Glo- 
 ry to God in the highest, on earth peace^ 
 
 Yery truly your friend, W, W. N. 
 
NO. XVII. 
 
 MxLXX, June 21 , 1S5$. 
 Very Dear Friends: — There can be no 
 greater contrast than between Yenice and 
 Milan. The streets, buildings and inhabi- 
 tants are all different. Venice is eastern, 
 Milan is scarcely Italian. This diversity- 
 gives zest to travel. We sometimes say to 
 ourselves, nothing can equal the interest 
 of this city. We pass to the next. A suc- 
 cession of scenes entirely different produces 
 equal gratification. 
 
 As we drove into the gates of Milan, the 
 wheels of our carriage seemed to be rolling 
 upon a smooth floor. There were two car- 
 riage-ways in the street where blocks of 
 hewn stone were laid for the wheels with a 
 paved horse path between. I never in my 
 life enjoyed, in a city, such quiet and delight- 
 ful riding. Could not the same thing be in- 
 troduced into our American cities? As 
 Milan was destroyed about 700 years ago by 
 Frederic de Barbarossa, it is better built 
 than most Italian cities. There are good 
 side walks ; there is an appearance of busi^ 
 ness and thrift, and within the city there is 
 
112 
 
 a large and beautiful parade ground, with 
 Austrian music, and throngs of carriages and 
 people. The prosperity of the city was such 
 at one time that it led the fashions of Europe. 
 Hence from the word Milan came the term 
 Milliner. The present number of inhabitants 
 is 150,000. 
 
 We arrived here from Yenice in the eve- 
 ning. After a refreshing tea in our snug 
 little parlor, we opened our blinds upon the 
 great Corso, and stepped out upon the bal- 
 cony. And oh ! what exclamations of won- 
 der, joy and admiration ! Never before were 
 we bewildered by such sudden and unex- 
 pected enchantment. Not thirty rods dis- 
 tant, our street opened into the great square, 
 and there arose before us, in all its grandeur, 
 the most splendid building in Europe, the 
 Cathedral pf Milan. More than three thous- 
 and marble statues of snowy whiteness, 
 mounted . upon minarets and pmnacles, were 
 clustering around and towering above this 
 immense structure, all bathed in the silvery 
 lays of the moonlight, like *' white-robed 
 seraphs/' or rather like the "splintered ice 
 crag" of an Alpine peak. It was a brilliant 
 glazier suddenly dropped into the heart of 
 the city. We asked not and we cared not 
 for the style or orthodoxy of its architecture. 
 
113 
 
 We knew that it patterned no building we 
 had seen on earth, and we only asked that 
 we might be left in our trance of delight, lost 
 in the charms of this exquisite, fairy, aerial 
 vision. 
 
 We have found upon after examination 
 that the Cathedral has been 500 years in 
 buildir.g, and that 2000 more statues are 
 needed for its completion. The Madonna 
 upon the summit of the spire is 355 feet 
 high. The building is a little less than 500 
 feet long and 300 feet wide. From the top 
 there is a fine view of the city, the plains and 
 streams and villages of Lombardy, of the 
 snowy Alps, and even of the pmnacled peak 
 of Monte Eosa, which is said to have sug- 
 gested the plan of the building. The inter- 
 ior of St. Peters at Rome is more imposing as 
 a museum of art, but this Cathedral is better 
 adapted to the worship of God. The rich 
 scripture scene on each pane of glass is a 
 pleasing study. Here Napoleon, in royal 
 magnificence, placed npon his own head .the 
 iron crown of Charlemagne, and here he 
 crowned his Josephine. The tomb of Sr. 
 Charles Barromeo is below the pavement. 
 On turning a windlass, the silver front of the 
 covering slides down, and there, through 
 plates of rock crystal in frames of gold, we 
 
 15 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 see a golden crown, rich in the Tpurest gems 
 hanging over the mouldering skull. He 
 holds in his skeleton hand a croz:er of gold 
 and precious stones. All this is the more in- 
 appropriate from the fact that Borromeo 
 spent his large fortune in feeding the poor, 
 during the great famine of 1570, and exposed 
 his life in the terrible plague that followed — 
 He incurred such hatred in his endeavors to 
 reform the Priesthood that he was nearly 
 killed by a pistol shot from one of them, and 
 the State suppressed an ecclesiastical estab- 
 lishment on account of its conspiracy against 
 his life. The building they occupied is the 
 present palace of science and art. 
 
 One of the great paintings of Europe, the 
 Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci, is in the 
 refectory of a Convent, in this city. A door 
 has been cut through it and it is greatly de- 
 faced. There is a fine print of it in Amer- 
 ica. 
 
 Another object of great interest in Milan 
 is the Arch of Peace. At the marriage of 
 Eugene, the son of Josephine, and the Vice- 
 roy of Milan, the Council resolved that this 
 marble arch, in imitation of the Arch of 
 Constantine, at Rome, should be built with 
 the 200,000 francs given by Napoleon to 
 Adorn the city. Before its completion Milan 
 
115 
 
 fell into the hands of Austria, and the round* 
 ed figure of Napoleon, by Canova, lies away 
 in the rubbish of the Brera, while the gaunt 
 figure of Ferdinand 1st is mouuted upon the 
 Car of Peace,- drawn by six spirited steeds. — 
 This kind of meanness is common in 
 Europe. But can the Milanese ever forget 
 that this Arch was erected for Bonaparte ? 
 Can they forget his wonderful action at the 
 Bridge ofLodi, not 25 miles distant? Can 
 they forget the millions he spent upon the 
 Cathedral, and his vast plans for the improve- 
 ment of this city ? No ! Napoleon is popu- 
 lar. Au-rtria is everywhere hated. Away 
 down below Naples, our guide exclaimed to 
 us in bitterness : '^Liberty I what do we know 
 of that ? If the feather in your hat was in 
 my cap I should be thrust into a dungeon as 
 a dangerous man. But our time is coming.* 
 Every few nights, at Eome, some French 
 soldier is secretly stabbed by the enraged 
 citizens. At Venice our guide said, despair* 
 ingly : "We are watched, guarded, crushed, 
 Austrian cannon are frowning upon us eve- 
 rywhere. There is no hope for Venice."—^ 
 This cannot last. Freedom must come, but 
 not yet. If they had liberty to-day they 
 could not sustain it. They must learn to 
 think for themselves. They are beginning. 
 
116 
 
 Four Priests of Lombardy have protested 
 against the doctrine of tbe immaculate con- 
 ception. After a discussion with the Drs. of 
 Milan, they have been excommunicated. — 
 But the Bishop was insulted, and tlie people 
 have taken up a subscription for the four 
 Priests. As the Italian citizens and the Aus- 
 trian soldiers confess to the same Priest the 
 citizens fear a betrayal. They have not suffi- 
 eient confidence for a concerted action in the 
 cause of Liberty. When the Bible is read 
 and the gospel is preached in Italy, when the 
 loving, unselfish principles of pure religion 
 are disseminated there, then Italy will banish 
 her priestly and despotic tyrants and govern 
 herself. 
 
 Early one morning we took the cars for 
 Como, 27 miles Irom Milan. On board the 
 boat that took us up the Lake we were de- 
 lighted to find our old traveling friends^ Prof, 
 and Mrs. Green, of Princeton, N. J. We 
 stopped at Ballageo. This is a mountain 
 steep that divides Lake Como into two dis- 
 tinct parts. During the day we rowed, and 
 bathed, and walked. Climbing the great 
 hill, I laid down under the trees at the top, 
 and, viewing the Lake in three eiifferent di- 
 rections, I drank in the full beauty of this far- 
 famed and justly celebrated water. Weary 
 
117 
 
 of the dust and toil of travel, I found here that 
 sweet repose I so much needed. 
 
 As we glided down the Lake, towards eve- 
 ning, nothing could surpass the quiet beauty 
 and rich variety of this Italian scenery. En- 
 tirely different from Naples, Florence and 
 Venice, it was just as charming as either. — 
 The waters are not wide, but irom the very 
 shore precipitous mountains rise up more than 
 2000 feetj highly cultivated to the very top. 
 The sun lingered upon these summits. Little 
 cottages, away up the steep sides, glittering 
 like little brilliants through the waving foli- 
 age, termed an ever-varying succession of 
 magnificent pictures. We reached Milan late 
 in the evening, wearied with an excess of de- 
 light. After a lingering look at the wilder- 
 ness ot mmarets, m the Square, I nestled 
 down to my pillow, under the white robed 
 forms of the great Duomo and dreamed that 
 I was reclining upon the banks of the river 
 of life, and that angels wings were rustling 
 
 around me. 
 
 Yery truly your friend, W. W. N^ 
 
NO. XVIII. 
 
 Tfrin, June, 2S,1S50. 
 
 My Dear Friends:— It is most extraordi- 
 nary that the great mass of modern travelers 
 should go from Milan to Geneva, over the 
 Simplon Pass. Mont Cenis is higher, is 
 said to have been passed by Hannibal, and 
 was re-constructed by Bonaparte. In a lit- 
 tle tour from G-eneva, by Diligence, Mules 
 and boat, we can see Chamouni, Martigny 
 and Lake Geneva. We preferred to pass 
 through Piedmont, 1st, because there is a 
 Railroad from Venice to Turin. 2d. Because 
 we would see the only Kingdom in Italy that 
 dares to govern itself, in spite of Rome. — 
 3d. We would see the Waldenses, the only 
 Protestant Church in Europe that has exist- 
 ed from the earliest ages, without reform. 
 
 The Railroad from Venice to Turin runs 
 east and west across northern Italy, and fan- 
 cilully reminds us ot the Central Railroad of 
 New York. Venice represents the city of 
 Albany. Padua nearly corresponds with the 
 situation of Schenectady. In the university 
 of Padua, Galileo was a Professor for eighteen 
 years. Twice this great philosopher was 
 
119 
 
 summoned before the Inquisition of Rom^s 
 To escape its chains and dungeons he re- 
 nounced hia philosophical theories. On ris- 
 ing from his knees the last time, he stamped 
 his foot upon the ground, exclaiming, " and 
 yet it moves." Upon this, he was sentenced 
 to the dungeon. He was finally banished. — 
 He became deaf and blmd. He lost his favor- 
 ite daughter and sunk to the grave a stricken 
 man. By the bigotry of the Piiesthood, his 
 body was kept from Florence nearly an hun* 
 dred years. As the Romish Church is infal- 
 lible, it is a curious question whether her 
 Universities still teach that the earth stands 
 stilL 
 
 Vicenza may represent the location of 
 Utica. Verona, though much larger than 
 Syracuse, may represent that ci'y. It is a 
 charming old town with its amphitheatre and 
 towers. Shakspeare has immortalized the 
 place by his Romeo and Juliet, and his Two 
 Gentlemen of Verona. Brescia, with its 
 story of the gallant Bayard, may represent 
 Auburn ; Bergamo, Geneva ; Milan, Roch- 
 ester; Novara, Batavia, and Turin, Buffalo. 
 
 On reaching Kovara we were deeply inter- 
 ested in beholding the place where the gieat 
 battle was fought on the 22d of March, 1849, 
 between the Austrians, under Radetsky, an^ 
 
120 
 
 the Sardinians under their King, Carlo Al- 
 berto. The present King a d his father 
 -fought all day with prodigous bravery, but at 
 night tlieir shattered army retired from the 
 i^field. Kadetsky concluded a peace on liberal 
 terms, but Carlo Alberto abdicated his throne 
 and returned to Spain. His son Vittoria I., 
 •now reigns in his stead. 
 
 The King of Sardinia seemed to be free 
 with his people, and is opposed to parade. — 
 He has a splendid palace in the city, but he 
 spends his nights in the country. He often 
 rides on horseback, accompanied by a single 
 •■attendant. While hunting on one occasion, 
 this past year, he was met by three men who 
 ^demanded his money, ''But, he says, do 
 you know who I am ?" " Yes ; you are the 
 King, and you have money, we have none." 
 "How much do you want?" " One thou- 
 sand francs." On handing them the amount 
 he said, " You must hasten or the guard will 
 Jiave you." He is a widower, with six 
 ^children. * He seems to be neither a Prot- 
 estant nor a Christian. But fortunately for 
 the State he attends to his own private af- 
 ,fairs, and leaves the people to govern them- 
 selves. 
 
 The terrible struggle now in Sardinia is 
 ^between the government and the priesthood. 
 
121 
 
 The strangest sight we liave seen in Italy- 
 is a momiment erected here to commemorn'e 
 the time when ecclesiastical rule ceased iu 
 Piedmont. One of the first acts of the King, 
 under the constitution, was a grant to build 
 a Protestant church in Turin. When up- 
 braideii by the priests, he sagely asked • "Are 
 you in want of any more churches?" *'No,*' 
 "But why should you have all you want and 
 ray Protestant subjects have none ?" This 
 church has* three pastors. Pustor Bert 
 preaches in French; pastor Meille, a most 
 godly and zealous man, preaches in liaHan. 
 They have a fine modern chui ch. Lusl Sab 
 bath they introduced their new organ. In 
 Italy a church is necessarily an establishmept. 
 Since 1848 they puf chased a large and v^lu^ 
 able lot. Unexpectedly the city lias been 
 growing in this direction, so that their prop- 
 erty is now upon one of the principal stiee's 
 and is worth twice its original cost. On this 
 lot they are now completing a block of buUd^ 
 ings^ which contains a chapel, three parson^ 
 ages, two hospitals, a printing establ shment, 
 several school rooms, and qheap tenements 
 for poor Protestants, Through the liberality 
 of the Christian world the means of grace are 
 now in full ppeiation, and among the ben'ght-j. 
 ed people, as one of the pastors said to me^ 
 16 
 
122 
 
 "there has been a great fever of changing re- 
 ligions." Through the wonderful blessing of 
 God their little band has become a large re- 
 ligious society, of 1,500 souls. One of the 
 first contributions for this church was from 
 America. And I am sure that every true 
 American will gladly bestow his alms and 
 prayers for the cause of liberty and religion 
 in Sardinia. 
 
 In addition to religious toleration the gov- 
 ernment are struggling to remove the bur- 
 dens of the people. Under the popular lead 
 of Count Cavour they have endeavored to 
 lessen the number of church festivals and to 
 regulate the civil marriage vow. There is an 
 enormous property in Convents. Sometimes 
 a few indolent persons occupy an immense 
 Convent in the most valuable part of a city. 
 One third of these convents have been abol- 
 ished. As fast as they run out they are to be 
 occupied by the government and the salaries 
 of the clergy are to be more nearly equal- 
 ized. Those engaged in this work have been 
 cut oflf from the sacrament of the church. — 
 But the Parliament laughs at these fulmina- 
 tions of the church and proceed with their 
 work. At a recent election the Priesthood 
 has been aroused to their utmost exertions. — 
 
m 
 
 They are charged with many false returns^ 
 and yet the Liberals have triumphed. 
 
 There are vast numbers of unmarried men 
 in Sardinia, Priests, Monks and soldiers— as a 
 consequence, there are here vast numbers of 
 children without acknowledged parents. To 
 provide for such, the country is filled with 
 foundhng establishments. An infant is placed 
 upon the steps, the bell is rung, and without 
 inquiry the child is taken in. Just at pres- 
 ent the Liberals in Parliament, are discussing 
 the propriety of their usual enormous ap- 
 propriation for the support of these establish- 
 ments. This discussion is producing, in cer- 
 tain quarters, no little irritation. 
 
 If the revolution of 1848 has done nothing 
 but redeem Sardinia, it has accomplished a 
 magnificent work. As the result of its liber- 
 al Government, we find Turin the wonder of 
 Italy. In 1848 it was a small city. Now it 
 contains 160,000 inhabitants, Liberals from 
 every part of Italy are flocking in here. 
 
 The crowd of beggars has entirely disap- 
 peared. New streets are making, and sub- 
 stantial buildings are rising. A splendid 
 palace of Industry has been built and filled 
 on the banks of the Po. Magnificent Rail- 
 road Depots are found on each side of the 
 City. The hotels, stores and markets are fine, 
 
iu 
 
 iitid it really seems like the pro^e^s ot Sii! 
 American city. The whole Kingdom Seeing 
 to have received a wonderful impulse, ft 
 embraces the Island of Sardinia and the large 
 territory between the Mediterranean and 
 Lake G-eneva, including Genoa, Piedmont, 
 Savoy, &c. Under its liberal Government, 
 the Kingdom of Sardinia is becoming pros- 
 per us, popular and populous. And if not 
 checked in her manly stddes she will soon 
 stand iorth to the world, a mighty power in 
 Europe. May her example teach the tyrants 
 of Italy the value of religious toleration and 
 the safety and happiness of constitutional 
 
 (j-overnment. 
 
 Yery truly your friend, "W. W. N. 
 
 * The eldest daughter of the Kin^ of Sardinia has 
 just be*'n married lo the Prince Napoleo^j. If her beau- 
 *tv ♦qun'sthe sweet portrai' of her m« ther, now in the 
 Palace, it is not stran^v thai her royal lord is reported 
 to be greatly in love with her. 
 
p 
 
 UO. Xl2t. 
 
 La ToFn, June 25th, 1S5$ 
 M-JT Dear Friends:— Here I am, at last, m 
 this old citadel ot Protestant Cbristianity. It 
 has stood the shock of thirty four crdel Ttud 
 deadly wars and has borne long and patient- 
 ly the curse of military and priestly despot- 
 ism. Here is the old village, and, towering 
 all around us, are the mighty mountains, 
 which sheltered the Waldenses in times of 
 persecution. And, away up there, is the old 
 cave with its hidden mouth, where the wo- 
 men and children were concealed. In time 
 of war the men would appear on one height^ 
 but before they could be reached they were 
 off upon another. They had great faeilities 
 for evading the enemy, as they were familiar 
 with the passes, and here in this region is the 
 highest peak in Europe, except Mont Blanc. 
 But in 1654 some miserable Judas guided the 
 enemy to this secret cave, where 200 women 
 and children were put to death. The men 
 were promised security if they would return 
 to their homes, but upon yonder hill Castel- 
 las, at a given signal, they were massacred^ 
 roasted, cut to pieces, blown up with gun- 
 
126 
 
 powder, drawn asunder with ropes and dash- 
 ed down the precipitous rocks. Cromwell 
 sent a threatening letter, by a special envoy, 
 to the Duke of Savoy, and peace was restor- 
 ed. He also appointed in Great Britain a 
 day for prayer and alms, m which nearly 
 $200,000 were collected for the afflicted Wal* 
 decses. But in 1683 Louis XIV of France 
 proposed to unite with the Duke of Savoy 
 for the utter and eternal extermination of 
 these inoffensive and loyal christians. The 
 mountains were actually covered with sol- 
 diers. Eleven thousand Waldenses were 
 starved or frozen to death, and 2000 children 
 were stolen away to be educated as Catho- 
 lics I The remnant fled to Switzerland, and 
 for three years these consecrated mountains 
 and Tallies were desolate and silent. At the 
 end of this time a little band were led back to 
 their mountain passes by Henri Arnaud, the 
 modern Leonidas of modern Thermopylae. — 
 Arnaud was a young preacher, who was 
 called by his abilities to the command of his 
 countrymen. After crossing Lake Geneva 
 and the Alps, with 800 pien, he met 2,500 
 French soldiers at the bridge of Salabertran. 
 With the loss of a dozen or twenty men, he 
 left 600 soldiers dead upon the field and pass- 
 ed on. After reaching their mountain 
 
127 
 
 heights they defended themselves against 
 22,000 disciphned soldiers until the King and 
 the Duke quarreled, and the war was closed. 
 This was their last conflict. Although the 
 Waldenses were reduced to 3000 persons 
 their enemies have ever since found it pru- 
 dent to confine themselves to mean annoy- 
 ances and barbarous persecutions. 
 
 I have been received here at La Tour with 
 great kindness by the Rev. Dr. Eevel and his 
 lady. I had seen the Dr. in America. — 
 Through his aid the earnest desires of my life 
 have been gratified — I have seen the Wal- 
 denses in their mountain homes. I was much 
 gratified to see here the portrait of Gen,, 
 Beckwith. He is now in Turin. The Gren*.^ 
 eral is an Englishman, who lost a leg at Wa- 
 terloo. He has lived with this people more 
 or less for 30 years, and has donated to their 
 improvement towards of $50,000. During 
 the middle ages this sect numbered in Eu* 
 rope several hundred thousand. They are 
 said to have passed as missionaries from Co-^ 
 logne to Florence. In later years they tell 
 of a meetins: of Synod, where 140 ministers 
 were together. But the present population 
 of this particular region is 23,000. They have 
 fifteen parishes and fifteen pastors. I ana 
 surprised to find that in each of ^these paih 
 
128 
 
 ishes there has always been, by law, a Cath- 
 ohc church. In each parish one or more 
 priests have been supported by government, 
 although in one case the Cathohc parish only 
 consisted ot a single old lady I This people 
 are greatly straitened for room. Every inch 
 of groand is cultivated, and soil is carried 
 upon mens' backs to their mountain heights. 
 
 Two hundred of the Waldenses have been 
 incjnced to immigrate to South America. Re- 
 cent news irom that colony is discouraging. 
 The soil of Piedmont, baptized with the blood 
 and tears of their Fathers, needs them, and 
 It is ardently hoped that they will remove 
 into the low lands and form centres of chris- 
 tian worship in every village and city in Sar- 
 dinia, thus verifying the motto upon thir 
 coat of arms *'Lux lucet in tene bris." This 
 is their undoubted destiny. They are Ital- 
 ians, and the gallant heroism of their Fath- 
 ers, and the chiistian sincerity of the race, 
 for so many centuries, give them an influence 
 in Sardinia much greater than the churches 
 of Europe that have been reformed. The 
 change in ten years at La Tour is almost 
 miraculous. Then the Priests in each parish 
 were not only spies, but officers of State- 
 Now priestly dominion is broken. Then the 
 Protestant church was not allowed to stand 
 
129 
 
 in the village. Now, they have a beautiful 
 edifice, that will hold a thousand people, and 
 the service is well attended. Then the cath- 
 ohcs had a grand new church that was going 
 to attract and convert all the people. They 
 have not one new convert yet. Then, a little 
 prayer-meeting was suppressed by priestly 
 power. Now, they worship God as they 
 list. Then, they could scarcely get a permit 
 for a high school. Now, they have a fine 
 seminary of learning, vrith good buildings and 
 many professors, and more than one hundred 
 Students. Several of these students are con- 
 verted catholics. Two of them have just 
 completed their Theological course, and are 
 goiog te the seminary at Edinburgh to spend 
 a year. The best friends of the Waldenses 
 have been Cromwell and Bonaparte. Un- 
 der the administration of the latter they pur- 
 chased property in the plains. Just before 
 the revolution in 1848, the Jesuits procured 
 a decree that these lands should be sold in 
 six months. The owner appealed to Carlo 
 Alberto, the father of the present King, and 
 in every case they had his kind and private 
 permission to remain. Now they may pur^ 
 chase property where they please. 
 
 The Waldenses are extending their relig- 
 ious operations. They are laboring for the 
 17 
 
180 
 
 illumination and cor version of others. Ten 
 years ago they could have no press in Sar- 
 dinia. The Bible was a concealed b .ok. — 
 Sir Cnlling Eardlley was expelled from 
 Genoa for giving away a single copy of tbe 
 Roman Catholic edition of the Scriptures. — 
 The Waldenses could have no part in the 
 Grovernment. They were forbidden to build 
 churches, to proselyte, or to preach. Now 
 they have modern presses, publishing news- 
 papers, tracts and books. Six thousand 
 copies of the scriptures are bein^f s )ld and 
 distributed over the kingdom each year. — 
 They have had a deputy in Parliament. They 
 have fine churches at Turin, Genoa, Nice and 
 Pinerolo. The number of preaching stations 
 is increasing. And there is just now a re- 
 ligious movement of great interest at Asti 
 and Alexandria. The Priests are as bitter 
 and violent as ever in their opposition. They 
 resort to force, but the police interfere, the 
 government are firm, and the people are 
 unmoved. I have spent some time at Pinero- 
 lo. It is between this place and Turin. Mr. 
 LenoXj of New York, contributes largely to- 
 wards the building of a fine church here. — 
 The rooms below for schools and lectures are 
 completed. The workmen are now engaged 
 upon the audience room. As 1 looked out 
 
131 
 
 from this Protestant Church upon the beau- 
 tiful promenade in front and saw the Priest 
 and people ; as I remembered how often the 
 utter extermination of the Waldenses had 
 here been plotted and vowed and undertak- 
 en ; as I remembered the old rulers of Sar- 
 dinia, the most bigoted and bloody in Europe' 
 1 could not but exclaim, Wonderful! wonder^ 
 ful ! wonderful change ! The Priests say 
 that the prayers of the present King's ances- 
 tors, now in Heaven, will slop this move- 
 ment. If there was any danger of this the 
 murdered Waldenses would out pray these 
 bloody Kings. Grod has heard their groans 
 and bottled their tears and seems to be ans- 
 wering the prayer of Milton, the renowned 
 Secretary of Cromwell : 
 
 *'Aveng3. O Lord, thy slaughtered saints, * * * 
 Tlieir martyred blood and ashes sow 
 O er all the ital ian fields." 
 
 Very truly your friend, "W. W. N. 
 
NO. XX 
 
 June 29tb, 1858. 
 . Very Dear Friends — As I despair of time 
 to write you anotli(M- lull letter at a single 
 sitting, I propose to give you the history of 
 a single clay. While dreaming this morning, 
 at 5 o'clock, I was avfakened in the vale of 
 Chamouni, by the blowingof an Alpine horn. 
 A sheperd boy was loading off his goats to 
 pasture. At once, there came thronging 
 over me an indistinct recollection of all that 
 I had ever heard in story, or read in ryhme 
 or prose, of Savoy and Switzerland. 
 
 I was soon at my window. Mont Blanc 
 towered up into the blue heavens : his white 
 robed, chrystal summit glittered in the pure 
 sunlight of Grod. It was indeed a gorgeous 
 sight — a sight most earnestly sought, but not 
 always found. About three hundred days in 
 the year, envious clouds float in wreaths or 
 hang in heavy folds around his hoary head. 
 Into this impenetrable shrowd, the eager eye 
 ofmauprysin vain. I looked toward the 
 opposite mountain. There a maramouth 
 avalanche had plunged its hugh mass of des- 
 olation into the very lap of this litttle valley. 
 
133 
 
 It was a fete day, and a sweet toned bell was 
 ringing forth its matin peaL Men and mules 
 were gathering in the streets. Goats and 
 cows, with tinkling music, were passing off 
 to their mountain strolls. 
 
 After breakfast, the streets were filled, to 
 view our departure for the Mer de Grlace. It 
 was a novel scene. My wife and two estima- 
 ble scotch ladies were soon marching off on 
 Mules, led by guides. My children, with 
 myself, led the \vay on foot. With our long 
 iron pointed alpenstocks so essential on the 
 ice, we looked like a band of mountain peas- 
 ants. The ascent of'Montagne Yert was very 
 steep, and almost three hours long. From 
 the mountain house, we made a precipitous 
 decent, more than a thousand leet, to the 
 shore of the ice. In all its windings, the 
 Mer de Glace is fifty miles long. It is here 
 one mile wide ; it is fearlul getting down the 
 precipice to the shore, and it is more fearful 
 stepping over the chasms of unfathomable 
 depth, that are yawning every where upon 
 the ice. The ice is not smooth, there are 
 stones, boulders, snow and dirt, and mimic 
 mountains. It is indeed a little sea-tempesfc> 
 waves of the Atlantic, frozen hard. It moves 
 downward one foot each day, and opposite 
 to us are needle sloped peaks, bristling spears 
 
134 
 
 -feOOO feet high, too smooth and sharp for 
 snow to nestle in. 
 
 Bijt I must leove all numerics to guide 
 books and all glowing descriptions to those 
 who write "hymns in the vale of Chamouni,'' 
 and make books "in the shadow of Mont 
 Blanc." 
 
 Montague Vert is covered, as far as vegi- 
 tation extends, with the favorite fir tree. — 
 
 Every where its fretted points are towering 
 upward. 
 
 And as I wound around and up the moun- 
 tain side I seemed to be climbing the steeps 
 of some vast Cathedral, whose towering spire 
 was lost in clouds. And there was worship 
 there. Even the great stones were preach- 
 ers, and immense cascades of water rushing 
 from the Mer de Glace sounded forth the 
 great organ peal. Distant avalanches thun- 
 dered out the heavy bass. The eagle, the 
 goat and chamois joined in the chorused an- 
 them. And hard indeed must be the heart 
 that would not gush forth in this sounding 
 hymn to the great Eternal. 
 
 With one exception, the Mer de G-lace is 
 the grandest thing I have seen abroad. It is 
 so cold, and wild, and strange. One thinks 
 of Arctic regions, eternal ice, and Dr. Kane. 
 It is all-glorious and wonderful. Not one 
 
135 
 
 stone h-as been lifted there, not one glacier 
 has been polished by man. 
 
 But there is one thiDg grander. No part 
 
 of the earth ever has or ever will move me 
 
 « 
 
 like Yesuvius. The immense height, the aw- 
 ful desolation, the inipenetrable mystery, the 
 unfathomable abyss of fire, and the bursting 
 volcano, all conspire to make this the grand- 
 est of all Grod's stupendous works upon the 
 continent of Europe * * * * 
 
 But twilhght has come. The sun has long 
 since set. The deep shadows are gatheriiig 
 over the scene. Jagged rocks, dark fir trees, 
 deep-ravines, broad avalanches, crystal mina- 
 rets, icy caverns and the grand mulcts, are all 
 mingling together. in unintelligible obscurity. 
 We are seated at our late dinner. The door of 
 our hall opens and an English fiiend, greatly 
 excited, beckons us away. We rush out to 
 the front balcony, and what a siglit is there. 
 Over the mountain, somewhere in the g eat 
 world, the sun had come out from a cloud, 
 and away up upon the mountain top, 12^00Q 
 feet above us, it is pouring upon the snow-' 
 white head of Mont Blanc a flood of transpar- 
 ent light, that can only be sur-passed in puri- 
 ty and splendor by the magnificent glory of 
 Heaven itself. 
 
 Dinner is over. The hum of the valley has 
 
186 
 
 died away. The house is quiet, but still I sit 
 under the dark shadow of the great mountain 
 writinfy to loved ones, and thinkins: grateful- 
 ly of Him who hath led and spared us. For 
 we have passed dangers to-day. We have 
 crossed the track of avalanches, where the 
 misstep of a mule, the turning of a saddle or 
 the crumbling of the soil would have plunged 
 .us whirling down an abyss of many thou- 
 sand feet. With our alpenstocks we have 
 Btepped over great, gaping fissures in the ice, 
 where a slip of the foot would have precipi- 
 itated us down into caverns of unfathomable 
 .darkness and depth. A stone carelessly sent 
 jfrom above just escaped the head of my 
 daughter. I started in terror at the danger. 
 'For this and every other deliverance I now 
 .thank God. Thus you have a meagre ac- 
 .Gount of one more day of travel. With a 
 wearied body and a gladsome heart I must 
 ,bid you a loving good night. 
 
 June 80th. 
 We are here some days 'from Turin. The 
 ,cars took us from that city to Susa, at the foot 
 of the Alps. We found attached to the Dil- 
 igence ten mules and two horses. We bless- 
 ,ed Bonaparte for a smooth road and a fine 
 
137 
 
 grade. Up, and up, and up the side we went, 
 backward and forward, a perfect zig zag — 
 noW in the deep go ge— now on a trightlul 
 bridge over the dashing cataract — now hang- 
 ing directly over the yawning precipice.— 
 Finally we reached the rocks, the snow, the 
 clouds. We passed the cantonniers houses, 
 crumbling Hospice, the icy lake, and we were 
 at the top of the Alps. What pure ether 
 what profound stiUness ! what stupendous 
 views ! v/hat awful desolation ! Dismissing 
 our mules two fine horses were attached to 
 car Diligence, and we rashed, whirling, down 
 the sides of the Alps with frightful velocity. 
 Bonaparte's road is thirty miles long. After 
 a night at Aix Le Bains we came by boat and 
 cars to G-eneva. 
 
 We had a tedious day to Chamouni, by^* 
 Diligence. V^ e passed a county subject to 
 the disease called Gr.)itre. The scenery was 
 diversified with Swiss cottages, wild water 
 falls, deep ravines, snow white glaciers and 
 interminable mountains. 
 
 Very truly your friend, W. W, K, 
 
 IS 
 
NO. XXI. 
 
 Geneva, July, 6, 1858. 
 
 Very Dear Friends: — It is a living plea- 
 sure to reach this clean, healthful, protestanfc 
 city. After so long a sojourn amid the filth 
 and beggary of Italy, it is really delightful to 
 walk upon the banks of this pure Lake, to 
 meet this well-dressed, energetic people and 
 to hear once more the kind voice of Christian 
 brethren. On our arrival here we had not 
 heard from home for a month. My son burst 
 into the room with a handful ot letters from 
 America. We seized and held them I What 
 fearful tidings have they brought across the 
 ^eep? Slowly the seals were broken. — 
 Thank God — all well at homel But alas! 
 alas I two dear friends aj'e in their graves. 
 Thus keen are the fears and joys and woes 
 of travelers. 
 
 Letters from Dr's Cox, BAiRDand Kirk to 
 several persons in Geneva, have secured us a 
 very cordial reception here. Dr. Merle 
 D'AuBiGNE very kindly invited me to his 
 own table, and I had the pleasure of meeting 
 him aud his family on several other occa- 
 sions. He lives in the house that belonged 
 
139 
 
 to his father. It is beautifally embowered 
 in elms, evergreens and roses. The grounds 
 reach to the very borders of the Geneva 
 Lake. As I entered this charming retreat, I 
 could not but exclaim, "The very place where 
 the history of the reformation should be 
 written 1" Time, labor and the sad loss of 
 his wife, are leaving their marks upon the 
 Doctor. He is tall and gray, with heavy 
 eyebrows and good features. In conversa- 
 tion he is genial. In public speaking his 
 voice is full, his person commanding, and his 
 gestures impressive. He informed me that 
 two more volumes of his history of the re- 
 formation are nearly ready for publication, 
 and that they will both appear at the same 
 time. 
 
 Daring one of my Sabbaths here, I have 
 listened to the preaching of the venerable 
 Dr. Malan. From a long and rich exper- 
 ience he insisted upon his favorite topic — 
 *'The assurance of faith." On another oc- 
 casion I listened to the successor of Calvin, 
 at St. Peter's Cathedral. His orthodoxy is 
 questioned. I learned, however, that the 
 youDg preachers and the students connected 
 with the seminary of this State church, are 
 becoming earnest and evangelical. May the 
 
140 
 
 time be hastened when but one Theological 
 Seminary will be needed in Geneva. 
 
 My second visii here has purposely oc- 
 curred during the meeting of 'he Evangelical 
 Society. It was held in the Oratoire. It has 
 been a Missionary jubilee. The attendance 
 and interest have reminded me of our May 
 meetmgs, in olden times. Delegates were 
 present from many portions of France and 
 Switzerland, fiom Piedmont, Sweden, Bel- 
 gium and Canada. Their accounts of the 
 present state, and tie future prospects of re- 
 ligion, were highly encouraging. They 
 called me out, as an Ameiican. I told them 
 how many of the Christians of the new world 
 venerated the name of Calvin— how famil- 
 iarly we knew, and how ardently we loved 
 the present Christians of Geneva. I assured 
 them of our hea ty fellowship and our warm 
 sympathy in their great Wv)rk of Evangeliza- 
 tion. I referred to what 1 had seen and 
 known ot the great awakening, how the 
 work had been carried forward, and I pro- 
 posed to the lay and clerical Christians pre- 
 sent, that henceforth we toil and pray and 
 preach, with the one specfic design of lead- 
 ing souls to Jesus. I could not have spoken 
 under more favorable ausp'ces, as the Mod- 
 erator, Dr. Merle D'Aubigne, introduced me 
 
141 
 
 to the audience at the close of a very elo- 
 quent speech from Dr. M<>nod, of Paris, up- 
 on the institutions and revivals of America. 
 Having just left our shores, his speech was 
 heard with pr >found attention. He describ- 
 ed the liberality of a people who had carried 
 him thousands of miles without- railroad iare, 
 or hotel bills. He not only rele^ red to the 
 magnitude of our revivals, but insisted upon 
 their soundness. Among other proofs he 
 instanced, in a most feeling manner, the con- 
 version of his own son. 
 
 On one evening during the religious fcFti- 
 val, there was a reunion of Christians at the 
 house ot Mr. Le Fort. His old mansion is 
 upon the banks ot the Lake. There are 
 many acres in his grounds. As we neared 
 the house, a fairy scene appeared. Several 
 hundred people were moving about under 
 the old elms and sycamores, amid the last 
 rays of the setting sun. Here refreshments 
 were served. At dark, the Umps were lighted, 
 the bell was rung, and we all gathered 
 around the large balcony for religious service. 
 Dr.'s Merle, Milan. Monod and other dis- 
 tinguished men addressed the people. The 
 music was grand. 
 
 Dr. Monod insisted again upon the great 
 work in America, and its great need in Eu- 
 
142 
 
 rope. He will do the s me in France. And 
 I c mil. it butc^nsi er it a wonde-ful Provi- 
 dence that detail led hirn in America during 
 the revival. Mr. Le Fl)RT is connected with 
 the State CIju ch. There were also present 
 a large number of lay and clerical members 
 of the same body. They sympathise with 
 the evangel cal movement. It is thought 
 they would now declare themselves indepen- 
 dent of the State, but for the fear that the 
 Catholic ehu ch would be adopted as the 
 State Church. 
 
 I have stood oyer the grave of the great 
 and good Calvin. He was cha-ged with the 
 death ot Servetus. But at the time of his 
 execution Calvin had no political office and 
 his influence with the State was always lim- 
 ited. It was a moral and religious influence. 
 Calvin did not demand the execution of Serve- 
 tus, He made his escape from the Catholic 
 dungeons of Vienna and was executed by the 
 decision of all the Protestant magistrates of 
 Svvitzeiland. Calvin did not think he should 
 be put to death for error, but for blasphemy. 
 •In this opinion he was wrong. Bathe plead 
 the demands of the Jewish law. It was the 
 error of the age. The world vva> with him. 
 Calvin loved republican liberty. Through the 
 Puritans of England our views ot freedom 
 
143 
 
 may be traced to G-eneva. Calvin was a lov- 
 er of learning. The college he here founded 
 is still flourishing. He was a mighty thinker. 
 Through his clear writings he has influenced 
 the theology of the Piotestant woild. We 
 wonder that a man brought up for the Cath- 
 olic priesthood, 300 years ago, should have 
 done so nobly. But he supposed, with the 
 rest of the world, that the State was respon- 
 sible for error, aad was bound to suppress it. 
 
 So fifty years ago good men in America 
 thought ic right to drink brandy, and thirty 
 years ago there was a law in England to ex- 
 ecute witches, and «ven now the Inquisition 
 is in lull blast in Italy. 
 
 Last week there was quite a sensation pro- 
 duced by the arrival at our Hotel of th^e 
 Princess Helena and suite, from Russia. 
 
 Yesterday we most patriotically lemem- 
 bered the F< urth of July, with our friends, 
 Jones and Brown, alias Touisg and ^Nelson, 
 of New York City. 
 
 Geneva is flourishing. With the aid of for^ 
 eign capit&l, large stone blocks are rising in 
 the vicinity of the Railroad Depot. The city 
 contains over 30,000 inhabitants. Her jew- 
 elry, silks, and music-boxes have a world- 
 
144 
 
 wide farae. The morals and religion of the 
 place are improving, and it is earneslly to be 
 hoped that the light of this little star may 
 yet shine forth purer and brighter than ever 
 be -ore. 
 
 Very truly your friend, W. W, N, 
 
No. XXII. 
 
 Baden Baden, July 7th, 1858 
 It was a bright morning, Dear Priends, 
 when we left our splendid Hotel at G-eneva. 
 It stands upon the very banks of the ' wide, 
 clear and swift-running Khone. We passed 
 over the long bridge and bidding farewell to 
 the graceful swans and the little Island with 
 its sweet shrhbbery and its sitting statue of 
 RossEAu, we hurried on board the steamer for 
 Coppet and Lausaune. This Island in the 
 very heart of the city always reminds me of 
 the Iris in our own Niagara. Nothing can 
 exceed the beauty of this sail 1ip the Lake 
 Leman. The gently rising banks on both 
 sides are covered with fields of green groves, 
 gardens and country seats ; while, in the 
 distance, mountain piled on mountain 
 Stretches away to the very summit of Moiit 
 Blanc itself. 
 
 I was very happy to meet on board the 
 boat, my old friend, Dr. Revel, of La Tour. 
 As there is no provision for the insane aniong 
 the Waldenses, he was on his way to an 
 Asylum in Switzerland with a young Pro- 
 fessor in their institution, who had been 
 12 
 
146 
 
 Gras:ed by too much study. It was sad to 
 look upon the melaucholy countenance of 
 this young man, as he was borne away from 
 his post of usefulness. I received from the 
 Dr. much cheering information respecting 
 the progress of rehgion in the Kingdom of 
 Sardinia. In passing through a benighted 
 part of Savoy, we had found a village of 
 Bible readers and protestant worshippers, 
 with its ably conducted religious newspaper. 
 I was informed by Dr. Eevel that this was 
 the work, under Grod, of a single young man, 
 who was designed by his father for the Priest- 
 hood. He thought he discovered error and 
 abuses. He began to argue with the Priests, 
 procured a Bible for information, saw his 
 own sin and want and became a zealous dis* 
 ciple of Christ. This seems to be God's 
 method of spreading the truth. 
 
 Calvin, Zwingle and Luther, were educa- 
 ted for the Priesthood and were led in the 
 same way. 
 
 There ig a charm to an American traveler 
 about the Protestant villages of Switzerland* 
 They differ in appearance from Catholic 
 towns as decidedly as fields of wheat and 
 grass. ' You can tell them instantly ; the 
 houses, fences, children and people are all 
 different* Geneva, Coppet, Lausanne, Yevay 
 
and Chillon lie upon the shores of this lake^ 
 on banks of liviDg greeri. Here we find 
 traces not only of Calvin and Beza, of Merle 
 GrAussEN, La Harp and Malan, but also of 
 YoLTAiRE, EossEAu, Q-iBBON, Madame De 
 Stael, De Saussure and ByroiT. Madam 
 De Stael and her distinguished father are 
 buried at Coppet, and we saw at that most 
 charmiug and romantic of all places, Laus^ 
 ane, the fine old grounds where Gibbon wrote 
 the three last volumes of his decline and 
 fall of the Roman Empire. There is a new 
 Hotel upon the spot bearing his name. Here 
 is the old family house of Prof. Agassiz, now 
 ■ oi Cambridge. Here are some relics of N"a^ 
 l>OLEON, presented by his son, the Duke of 
 Reichstadt, who once studied here. We stop- 
 ped at E"eufchatel, at the foot of the Jura 
 mountains. It has a very prosperous literary 
 gymnasium and stretches along upon a beau-= 
 tiful lake of its own name. And the noble, 
 old, picturesque city of Berne, with its colos- 
 gal bears, its splendid parks, its projectmg 
 arcades a-nd its delightful promenade more 
 than a hundred feet high, hanging directly . 
 over the river Aar, as it sweeps around the 
 town, and Zurich, the cradle of the Reformat 
 tion, the home of Zwingle, who with his 
 false notions of war, was one of Grod's brav# 
 a.nd earnest noblemen. 
 
148 
 
 On Hearing Bale we passed through a Rail- 
 road tunnel near six miles long. We stopped 
 at the "Three Kings." On looking out of 
 Qur windows, in the morning, the turbid wa- 
 ters of the great Rhine were dashmg directly 
 by the foundation of our Hotel. This old 
 city of 24,000 people has a sacred history. — 
 It is still a centre of christian light. 
 
 Here Zwingle was educated, Erasmus 
 and EcoLAMPApius were buried, Calvin, 
 Luther and Melancthon sojourned and labor- 
 ed. Its Bibles and Missionary societies are 
 among the oldest extant. The University, 
 the Museum, the old sand stone Cathedral, 
 the public walks, the flowing fountains and 
 the rushing Rhine are all matters of intense 
 interest. Just outside of Bale is the field of 
 St. Jacob, where, in 1444 a brave Swiss 
 band of 1600 men resisted 16000 Frenchmen. 
 But ten of the Swiss were left alive ! 
 
 We passed down the banks of the Rhine 
 to this place in the cars. We found Frey- 
 burg at the very foot of the "pine covered 
 mountains" of the Black Forest. We were 
 delighted with the graceful, airy towers of 
 the old Cathedral, 380 feet high. It is stone 
 fretwork, wrought to the very pinnacle with 
 exquisite skill. 
 
 Strasburg, upon the opposite side of the . 
 
149 
 
 Ehine, was once a free city. Louis XIV in, 
 time of peace stole the place and it has ever 
 since been a French city, with a German, 
 population. We were told that it could not. 
 be entered without fresh passports. By 
 leaving our baggage at Kehl, however, we. 
 were permitted to pass the furious Rhine 
 upon a heavy bridge of boats. As we drove, 
 up into the centre of this old and strongly 
 fortified town, a guide met us at the door of 
 the carriage with the exclamation, ^ 'Quick, 
 for the Cathedral, or you will be too late,"- 
 Before we reached the door of the church, 
 the clock began to strike twelve. ''Hurry, 
 hurry." was the cry. We rushed into the 
 building, and to our utter amazement saw an 
 immense throng, all gazing at the inside, 
 clock. On looking up we see the figures qf 
 the twelve Apostles passing around the. 
 Saviour. Close by upon the summit of a 
 pillar, an inimeose cock lifts his wings. an(i, 
 crows most lustily. At his third crowing, 
 Peter appears with a dejected look and passes 
 the same round. The moment it was over, 
 these hundreds of people, just as foolish as. 
 ourselves, rushed out of the church. We. 
 stopped to examine the Cathedral. This 
 most wonderful spire is higher than St. 
 Paul's, St. Peter's or even the Pyramids of 
 
150 
 
 Egypt. It is 474 feet to the top. We also 
 visited the Protestant churches. It is strange 
 to find them the most numerous in a French 
 town. In St. Thomas' church we found a 
 beautiful group of figures commemorative of 
 the Protestant Marshal Saxe. There are 
 monuments also to the memory of two of 
 Bonaparte's generals— Dessaix, who was 
 killed at Merango, and Klkber who was as- 
 sassinated by an Arab, in Egypt. 
 
 While at the Oas station, three miles froiaa 
 Baden, the cars came in from Carlsruhe. — 
 Among them was the Royal carriage. The 
 great officers of the railroad all in uniform, 
 marshaled jus upon the platform. The* Grand 
 Duke of Baden, a fine looking young man, 
 descended from the cars and conversed with 
 a gentleman at our side, while the Dutchess, 
 who is the sister of Prince William of Pi u3- 
 sia, tripped along with her attendants. They 
 are exceedingly popular. 
 
 We find Baden Baden a perfect little 
 Eden. Here nature and art seem to have 
 combined their fascinating powers. The 
 walks and springs and cottages extend from 
 the wild, irregular glen up the sides of the 
 black forest hill. But on looking into the 
 splendid saloons, we find the serpent is m 
 
151 
 
 Eden. Men and women, Lords and Ladies, 
 l)ukes and Princes all gambling with the 
 most unblushing effrontery. And we learn 
 that the gathering of respectable people at 
 this most attractive of all watering places is 
 yearly diminishing on account of the wicked^ 
 
 ness of the city. 
 
 Tours eYBF, WW.^* 
 
NO. XXIIL 
 
 Cologne, July 9th, 1858. 
 Mr Dear Friends : la descending the 
 Khine from Bale to Cologne, we have suc- 
 ceeded in viewing all the prominent towns 
 iand castles upon both its sides. This has oc- 
 cupied some days. On our way to Baden 
 Baden, W9 passed Carlsruhe, (Charles Rest) 
 the*Oapitol of the G-rand Duchy of Baden, 
 and the present residence of the G-rand Duke. 
 Its streets all radiate from the Palace ; it is a 
 quiet, shaded, beautiful city of 22,000 inhab- 
 itants. This great valley of tlie Rhine is said 
 'to have been once an immense lake ; the soil 
 IS rich and productive. 
 
 On nearing Heidleberg, the whole romance 
 "of our nature was aroused. Its past history 
 is one of fierce conflict, and terrible carnage. 
 It now contains but 15,000 inhabitants. We 
 saw its immense library and the famous 
 IJniversity, with its forty professors and its 
 six hundred students. The appearance of 
 the students is peculiar, owing to their very 
 small, bright-colored caps. The next object 
 of interest upon the main street is the old 
 'Cathedral ; for more than a century it has 
 
153 
 
 been divided by a brick wall. The protes* 
 tants occupy three-fifths of it. In one of the 
 church yards here, Jerome of Prague once 
 expounded the doctrines of the reformation, to 
 a crowd of listeners. 
 
 The windows of our hotel, the Prinz Karl, 
 looked up upon the old Castle. The Castle ! 
 who can describe it ? It is not a mere Cas- 
 tle. It is a fortress. It is the most magnifi- 
 cent ruin in Germany. Many books have 
 described its beauty, grandeur and history, 
 and yet they are undescribed and indescriba- 
 ble. From the very bosom of the town a 
 wooded hill rises to the height of 700 feet. — 
 High upon its side in solitary grandeur stands 
 out this immense ruin. Its mammoth great- 
 ness and fine preservation, its deep labyrinths 
 and heavy buttresses, its enormous pinnacles 
 and towers, rising against the dark and 
 wooded back-ground, its winding walks 
 and dancing streams, its early pomp and 
 tragic end, all conspire to make this the 
 grandest and most romantia of all castle 
 ruins. There is a portion of the castle 
 callerd the English Palace. Here Eliza- 
 beth, sister of Charles 1st of England and 
 wife of Frederick 5th, said to her husband 
 when offered the crown of Bohemia, "Let 
 me rather eat dry bread at a King's table than 
 20 
 
164 
 
 feast at the board of an Elector." She be- 
 came a Queen and lived to beg her bread* 
 This castle has been burned with fire, blown 
 lip with gunpowder and struck with hghtning. 
 The walls of the Towers are 22 feet thick^ 
 tod so sohd that when blown up with pow- 
 der they slide unbroken into the valley below* 
 The Heidleberg Tun is as high as a two story 
 house and holds 800 hogsheads. From the top 
 of these mighty Towers, covered with ivy, 
 ishrubs and trees, we beheld a magnificent 
 spectacle. The great valley, over which such 
 waves of crime and blood have swept, the 
 sweet Neckar, winding around the bals6 
 of the hill, the Ehine, roUing away to the seaj 
 the old castle of Tr if els, where Coeurde Lion 
 was hidden, the crumbling cottage where 
 Luther once dwelt, and, as far as the eye can 
 reach, the hills of Bavaria, the Black Forest 
 and the Yosges of France. 
 
 Manheim, once the capital of the Palatinate, 
 is a pleasant city of 25,000 inhabitants, sitnat* 
 «d at the junction of the Neckar with the 
 Rhine. The history of this city is a history 
 of destruction and blood. Since it has no 
 fortifications it prospers. Here, upon the 
 Parade Platz, Schiller lived and flourished* 
 
 At Manheim we took the boat for Worms^ 
 ti|)on the opposite side of the river> Worms is 
 
156 
 
 an old Eoman town. Here Charlemagne was 
 married. It is a city renowned fot its Diets, 
 Just outside the walls is the old elm tree 
 under which Luther rested and uttered that 
 most famous speech about the tiles and devils 
 of Worms. Here Luther appeared, in 1521, 
 before the most august assemblage on earth. 
 The chief powers of the Continent were rep- 
 resented — Emperor Charles V, sovereign of 
 the new and old world, Arch Duke Ferdinand, 
 300 Electors, Dukes, Princes, Margraves, 
 Archbishops, Barons, Counts and Ambassa- 
 dors. By the Christian heroism, discretion 
 and zeal of Luther, he gained a signal con- 
 quest over these formidable powers. He was 
 at this time the most rec owned man in Eu- 
 rope. In reaching the Diet, which was held 
 in a building since destroyed by the French, 
 the crowds in the streets were so dense that 
 a way was made for him by force. Never 
 were hate and love so intense and universal. 
 It was glorious to stand in those old streets 
 and conjure up that magnificent array of 
 pomp and power defeated by a single monk. 
 The very tiles of the houses frowned upon us« 
 And we turned away amazed that Protes* 
 tant tourists, yea, even that Protestant min- 
 isters who have so assiduously sought out the 
 Bambinos and Madonnas of Italy, should 
 
156 
 
 pass down npoa the other side of the river 
 leaving this hallowed spot where our great 
 Protestator exposed his hfe for the truth we 
 love. 
 
 At Worms we took the cars for Mayence, 
 upon the same side of the river. This busy 
 and fortified city of 87,000 inhabitants, was 
 founded by Drusus, the son-in-law of Augus- 
 tus. Nearly opposite the city the river 
 Maine joins the Rhine. Mayence is renown- 
 ed as the place where the art of printing with 
 moveable types was first discovered by Gut- 
 
 TEMBURG. 
 
 Here are his tomb and his renowned statue 
 by Thorwaldsen. Here still stands the house 
 extant the first printing ofi&ce ever known to 
 where Guttemberg was born, and here is still 
 the world. We have seen the first Bible 
 printed here. 
 
 We passed the Rhine upon a bridge of 
 boats to Cassel, and thence by cars went out 
 20 miles from the Rhine, to the old, free, re- 
 publican, protestant city of Frankfort on the 
 Maine. Upon looking out of our Hotel win- 
 dows, we were surprised to see long-legged 
 storks marching about upon the tops of chim"! 
 neys, where they have their nests. We found 
 Frankfort a clean, nice, beautiful city, with 
 
157 
 
 70,000 inhabitants. It is the present seat of 
 the^ G-erman Diet. The public gardens are ob 
 the site of the ancient fortifications, and many 
 of the splendid dwellings are embowered in 
 foliage. Every city has its Prophet and its 
 public statue. G-oethe, the intellectual sov- 
 ereign of his age, reigns here. We visited 
 the room where he was born. We saw, in 
 tlie Eomer, or town hall, full length portraits 
 of all the G-erman Emperors for 900 years. — 
 We also saw, upon the corner af the Dom 
 Platz, the house where Luther was in the 
 habit of preaching to the people in the square 
 below. Here originated, in one of the dirti- 
 est streets in the Jews' quarter, the family of 
 EoTHSCHiLDS. In this city the father lived 
 and died. He was succeeded here by Anselm, 
 his eldest son. Solomon settled in Vienna, 
 Nathan in London, Charles in Naples, and 
 James in Pans. There is an old caricature 
 here of the eldest son. A sn^ll, bald man, he 
 gives a beggar woman a kreutzer. She ex- 
 claims ^'G-od bless you a thousand fold.'' He 
 reckons a moment, and says, "How much 
 have I then? Sixteen florins and forty 
 kreutzers." 
 
 From Mayence we took the boat to Co- 
 logne. Imagine the Hudson, with great rafts, 
 700 feet long, covered each with a hundred 
 
168 
 
 men, and scenery higher and more extensive 
 than that of West Point, with every mount- 
 ain summit, and jutting cliff, and craggy 
 height, crowned with turreted towers and 
 bristling fortresses of " robber Knights and 
 feudal Lords/' and you have this portion of 
 the Khine. We first saw Jotiannisberg, pre- 
 sented to Prince Metternich by the Emperor 
 of Austria. At Bingen, we thought of Mrs. 
 Norton's dying soldier. At Caub, the army 
 of Blucher, just returning from the battle of 
 Waterloo, which they had just decided, knelt 
 and shouted together, "the Bhine, the Rhine." 
 Nothing can exceed the beauty and romance 
 of Coblentz. Just above is the splendid castle 
 and Palace where the King of Prussia gave a 
 magnificent entertainment to Queen Yio- 
 TORiA. Nearly opposite is the fortress of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, upon which Prussia has spent 
 five millions, since it was blown up by Napo- 
 leon. Here tlje charming " blue Moselle " 
 flows into the Rhine. Then comes the classic 
 and elegant Bonn where Beethoven was 
 born, and where the widow of the late G-en. 
 Havelook now resides. 
 
 At its modern flourishing protestant Univer* 
 sity, with its forty Professors and a thousand 
 students, Prince Albert was educated. — 
 Here are the graves of Niebuhr and Sohle- 
 
159 
 
 GEL. And last of all comes this dirty, bus^ 
 town of Cologne, with its 100,000 inhabi- 
 tants, which takes its name from the mother 
 of Nero, who was born here. In this city is 
 the famous church of St. Ursula, whose walls 
 are horribly disfigured with the pretended 
 skulls of 11,000 virgins, put up in glass cases. 
 But the great thing at Cologne is the Cathe- 
 drah This is a grand affair. The old cran,e 
 3till stande upon the unfinished tower, but 
 the protestant and hberal King of Prussia is 
 devoting large sums yearly to its completion^ 
 and when done, its towers will be 500 feet 
 high, and it will stand forth to the world the 
 most surpassingly magnificent Q-othic church 
 that was ever built. 
 
 Ever yottrs, W, W. S 
 
No. XXIV. 
 
 EoTTERD AM, July 12, 1869. 
 
 Very Dear Friends :— What little things 
 affect a foreign traveler. It is mj custom to 
 purchase engravings of prominent objects 
 last seen. During our last evening at Col- 
 ogne, a gentleman in a print-shop .addressed 
 ■ me as an American. After some conversa* 
 tion I said to him, ''and pray, sir, your 
 name ?" ''I am W. E. Dodge of New York." 
 '"'And I am Mr. K, of Syracuse." "Ah, Mr. 
 N., I have just parted from a member of 
 your family at my house in New York. I 
 told him I should meet you some where and 
 here you are." And we shook hands with 
 all the enthusiasm of Americans, Brothers, 
 Christians. Finding that our families Were 
 at the same Hotel, we all together talked 
 most energetically till near midnight. In 
 the morning they went up the Rhine, we 
 came down. Like two ships at sea, we hail- 
 ed each other and parted. But how much 
 good that salutation did us I 
 
 Following the track of others, we had not 
 planned to visit Holland. But we have been 
 amazed at our stupidity. The country is 
 
161 
 
 low, flat and original ; on this very account 
 it should be seen. Much of the soil of Hol- 
 and was stolen from the ocean. And as 
 stolen prey it is jealously guarded by levees, 
 dikes, flood-gates and men, at an annual cost 
 of five millions. The sea is twenty-four 
 feet above the lowest soil. Hence much 
 and has been swallowed up. Hundreds of 
 thousands of people have been drowned and 
 freighted ships now pass over buried villages. 
 Some of the land hardly seems to swim. — 
 The fences are narrow canals. There are 
 9000 immense wind mills stretching their 
 long, broad arms to every breeze. There are 
 five millions of people, mostly Protestants. — 
 Holland early embraced the doctrines of the 
 Eeformation. And havmg freed herself 
 from the Spaniards, under the great Prince 
 of Orange and his son, she enjoyed a won- 
 derful prosperity as a Christian Kepublic for 
 200 years. In the early part of this century 
 the churches departed sadly from the faith 
 and practice of the Fathers. Since 1835 
 evangehcal religion has been making pro- 
 gress. 
 
 Having seen the best part of the Khine, 
 we came by rail from Cologne to Amster- 
 dam. "We passed Dusseldorf and Arnhein in 
 
 Guelderland. At Utrecht the old walls of 
 21 
 
16^ 
 
 tlie city are thrown down and upon this 
 foundation a most charming walk surrounds 
 the place, shaded with trees upon the water's 
 edge. 
 
 After a week of toil and pleasure upon tlie 
 Khine, we thanked God for a Sabbath of rest 
 in the old city of Amsterdam. We greatly 
 enjoyed the services in Mr. McIlraith's old 
 Scotch church. But when the congregation 
 rose and sung, in English, the 13 th Psalm, 
 our tumultuous emotions could not be con- 
 trolled. We also attended church service iu 
 the old and new church. These are enor-? 
 mous buildings, with powerful organs. — 
 Crowds of people were in attendance listen- 
 ing to preachers clothed in the old puritan 
 style. Amsterdam was once the great com-"" 
 inercial city of Europe. It now contains 
 212,000 inhabitants. It is built upon ninety 
 islands. The broad Zuider Zee flows in from 
 the ocean and there is a ship canal fifty miles 
 long, Nearly every street has a broad canal, 
 but unlike Yenice there are sidewalks and 
 carriage ways between the buildings and the 
 canals. These walks are lined with large 
 green trees and are cleaned with wonderful 
 neatness. The ends of the often leaning 
 houses are toward the street. They are built 
 upon piles and are always of painted brick. 
 
163 
 
 The steps, door casings and floors are often 
 of Italian marble, and the furniture within is 
 often princely. These queer houses, these 
 wide streets with their gigantic trees, and 
 these broad canals with their bridges and 
 shipping, give to the city a most original and 
 fanciful appearance. With the ej:ception of 
 St. Marks, the city is vastly more agreeable 
 than Venice. The old State House of the 
 Eepublic was used as a palace by Louis Bon- 
 aparte, the father of the present French Em- 
 peror, when he was King of Holland. It is 
 still a palace and contains some five Dutch 
 paintings. PamiHes some times occupy 
 wind-mills. Eembrakdt, the great painter, 
 was born in one of them. His statue is in 
 one of the squares of the city. 
 
 The people of Holland have a wonderful 
 veneration for the habits of their fathers. — 
 Thus in this great and elegant city we saw 
 ladies drawn over the stones of the streets in 
 a carriage upon sleigh-runners. We were 
 constantly meeting in the streets fine looking 
 women from the north of Holland wearing 
 upon their temples immense plates of gold, in 
 the form of rosettes. Enormous rings are 
 hanging from their ears, and rich white caps 
 cover their heads. The children from the 
 
164 
 
 richly endowed asylums are dressed in black 
 cloth and red sewed together. 
 
 Our journey to Rotterdam has been full of 
 interest. It was literally upon green banks 
 by the side of still waters. We stopped first 
 at Haarlem. Here is the mammoth organ 
 of the world, with its 5000 pipes pouring 
 forth their thundering sounds, that roll away 
 amid the hollow arches of the old Cathedral* 
 Haarlem is also noted for its tulips, hyacinths 
 and flowers. But the principal thing of mod- 
 ern interest here is an immense lake, cover- 
 ing an area of 45,230 acres of land. By means 
 of enormous engines this water has been 
 pumped into a canal and carried to the sea. In 
 1853 the dry land was sold in lots and is now 
 cultivated. 
 
 We found Leiden a beautiful city of 40,- 
 000 inhabitants, all embowered in foliage. — 
 In 1573 the Spaniards besieged the city and 
 declared that the Dutch could as easily pluck 
 the stars from heaven as wrest Leiden from 
 their grasp. After famine and pestilence had 
 destroyed 6000 people a carrier pigeon brougt 
 news of relief. The Prince of Orange cut the 
 dykes. A terrible storm drove in the sea, 
 bringing in provisions and sweeping away 
 the Spaniards. For this heroism the Prince 
 offered them exemption from certain taxes or 
 
165 
 
 a University. Leiden has ever since been 
 renowned throughout the hterary world for 
 her eminent seat of learning. To an Ameri- 
 can, Leiden is one of the dearest spots upon 
 the Continent This is the sacred place 
 where, for twelve years, our Puritan fathers 
 found a shelter. Here the expedition of the 
 May Flower was planned. Two hundred and 
 thirty-eight years ago they walked these 
 streets and occupied these dwelUngs. Here 
 they cried to heaven for help, and Grod led 
 them forth and made them the founders of a 
 new, a grand, and a glorious world. 
 
 The next place of interest which we passed 
 was the Hague. Louis Bonaparte made thia 
 a city. It now contains 64,000 inhabitants.. 
 Here the royal family now reside. Having 
 seen the Queen in France we were interested 
 in all the particulars of her household. We 
 constantly hear that complaints are made of 
 her, not only by the King, but by her sub- 
 jects, for the singular reason that she is too* 
 liberal in her political opinions. The eldest 
 son, now 18 years old^ has been educated at 
 Leiden with other boys. He is spoken of as 
 a promising young man, of fine abilities and of 
 good scholarship. 
 
 We came next to Delft. Pottery was "first 
 made here. The plaee is famous far its Delffe 
 
166 - 
 
 ware. In the old church is a monument of 
 Admiral Tromp. Near by is the house where 
 William, Prince of Orange, was shot in 1584 
 by a man confessedly employed by Philip II 
 and the Jesuits. 
 
 Rotterdam is a great commercial city of 
 85,000 inhabitants. Its nearness to the sea 
 and to the Rhine makes it one of the great 
 outlets of Germany. It is advancing in pop- 
 ulation and business. There is a canal in ev- 
 ery street, and the largest ships may come 
 up to the owner's door. We have been 
 much interested in visiting the house where 
 Erasmus was born. We found a vegetable 
 shop in the first story ; the statue of this 
 most learned man, once Professor in Cam- 
 bridge, England, and the publisher of the first 
 edition of the New Testament in Greek, 
 stands in the centre of a great market and is 
 completely surrounded with vegetables. 
 
 Every American visiting Rotterdam should 
 see Delft Haven. It is a shaded walk of two 
 miles upon the levee. Here, July 22d, 1620, 
 our Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Holland. — 
 This is the scene of Weir's painting in the 
 Capitol at Washington. Amid prayers and 
 sobs and tears they parted here, amid pray- 
 ers and tears they landed on our shores. — 
 Yes I they sowed in tears. And where is the 
 
167 
 
 harvest ? Where ? We wait a 1000 years, 
 and then from the great future of America ; 
 from every prairie, hill and forest, from every 
 river, vale and city between the Atlantic and 
 Pacific, between the Arctic and Caribbean 
 seas, will come up the mighty response from 
 hundreds of millions of happy beings, ^'The 
 harvest is ^ere." 
 
 Yours Truly, W. W, N. 
 
NO. XXV, 
 
 Brttssels, July 14, 1858. 
 My Dear Friends :-r-l have always regard- 
 ed Belgium as the great battle field of other 
 nations. The kingdom contains about five 
 and one half millions of inhabitants. North- 
 ern Belgium is flat like Holland and teems 
 with inhabitants speaking the Flemish lan- 
 guage. Southern Belgium is hilly and 
 .•sparsely inhabited with a people speaking the 
 iFrench language. Antwerp is the great 
 inorthern city, Brussels the southern. The 
 -other principa cities are Bruges, Ghent, 
 -Lieg, Tour nay and Luxemburg. A word 
 .about the political changes of the last fifty 
 years will throw light upon their present con- 
 dition. In the early part of this century, 
 Belgium belonged to France, and Louis Bon- 
 aparte, brother of Napoleon, was King of 
 Holland. In 1810 Louis abdicated the 
 throne of Holland in favor of his infant son, 
 • the present Emperor of France. After the 
 fall of Napoleon at the battle of Waterloo, 
 :the Congress of Vienna, in their settlement 
 of nations, united Holland and Belgium and 
 Maade the Dutch Prince of Orangb, William 
 
169 
 
 lit, King of the Netherlands. The Unioti 
 was unhappy. The Dutch were a nation of 
 Protestant merchants, the Belgians were a 
 nation of Oatholio manufacturers. Holland 
 was always an asylum for the persecuted in 
 rehgion. Belgium was especially bigoted. 
 The Pope excommunicated the Dutch Arch 
 Bishops of Utrecht and Haarlem, who adher- 
 ed to King William, and the Priests of Bel- 
 gium inculcated opposition to the constitu- 
 Hcm^kl government from the pulpit and the 
 confessional. Owing to these and other 
 oauses, there was in 1830 a revolutionary 
 separation of Holland and Belgium. Wil- 
 jMAM continued .King of Holland, the Duke 
 de Nemours, son of Louis Philip, of Prance, 
 ^was ohosen King of Belgium. The French 
 King having mysteriously decUned this 
 honor for his son, the Belgians elected for 
 their ruler Leopold, Prince of Saxe Ooburg. 
 Leopold is the uncle of Queen Yiotoria and 
 was the husband of the lamented Princess 
 Charlotte, daughter of George lYth, of 
 Ingland. On ascending the Belgian throne 
 Leopold married Louisa, eldest daughter of 
 Louis Philip. The children are strictly edu- 
 cated in the CathoHo faith. The King wor* 
 fhips in a Protestant chapel. It is a remark- 
 able oircumstanee that the Belgians who 
 22 
 
separated from the Dutch at the particulai* 
 instigation of the Priesthood, should have 
 afterwards elected a Protestant King. It is 
 still more remarkable that the public mind, 
 liberalized by the rerolution, has ever since 
 been agitated with the subject of Evangeli- 
 cal religion. So that the very thing intend- 
 ed to suppress religious investigation has 
 promoted it. There is a great division 
 among the Catholics of Belgium, between the 
 Liberals and the Priesthood. Some Profes- 
 sors in the Universitry complain that the 
 Priesthood is a political party. The consti- 
 tution and the King are both hberal. The 
 Priests are instructed to give to their congre- 
 gations certain votes and to see that they are 
 duly deposited in the electoral urn. Not- 
 withstanding all these efforts the Liberal 
 party have triumphed. Formerly the eldest 
 son of the King, now a young married man, 
 made himself unpopular with the Liberals, 
 by his intimacy with the Priesthood. But 
 the power of Priestly rule is broken in Bel- 
 gium and the young heir apparent to the 
 throne is likely to side with the people. In 
 several places, as at Antwerp, Protestant 
 congregations have been broken up by a mob. 
 The police have interfered, public sympathy 
 has been excited and the congregations have 
 
171 
 
 been greatly enlarged. The Abbe Oamboldt 
 both at Liege and in this city, has attacked 
 the Protestants, calling the Bible Societies 
 ^'infernal machines." This has led to discus- 
 sions upon the right to read the Scriptures, 
 attended by immense crowd?, and in a few 
 days two thousand Protestant pamphlets up- 
 on the subject have been sold to the people. 
 Thousands of persons attended a Protestant 
 funeral. The Pastor spoke with such fervor 
 that the congregation clapped the speaker,, 
 cryins:, ''Ucavo ! Bravo ! success to the Pro- 
 testants!" 
 
 At Liege, students of the University and 
 multitudes of the people attend upon the 
 instructions of the Eev. Mr. Durand. Col- 
 porteurs and Bible Readers have great suc- 
 cess. And as the result of this recent move- 
 ment in this intensely Catholic Kingdom, 
 there are more than fifteen thousand Protest 
 tants connected with more than forty Pro- 
 testant congregations. 
 
 On our way from Rotterdam to Antwerp 
 we passed Dort, the oldest city in Holland. 
 Many villages in this region lay buried in 
 their watery graves, and Dort seemed sinking. 
 Here is the old castle prison from which 
 GrROTius, through the clever contrivance of 
 his wife, escaped in a bpx. And here is the 
 
1T2 
 
 old gothic building where, in 1618, the Synod 
 of Protestant Divines made a full declaration 
 of the Calvinistic faith. 
 
 We found Antwerp, the former capital of 
 Belgium, a fine old city. It has been sub- 
 ject to remarkable changes. In the 16th cen- 
 tury its population was 200,000. Princely 
 merchants occupied its streets, and 2500 ves- 
 sels sometimes lay at its docks. Then she 
 was the queen of commercial cities. The 
 Duke of Alva, the fiendish General of Philip 
 II, of Spain, established here the Inquisition 
 and undertook by force to make men Catho- 
 lics. The silk manufacturers fled to England 
 and 100,000 people left the country. For a 
 time Napoleon made this city the place for 
 his military depot, and the ruins of his great 
 plan s are still visible. 
 
 Holland commands the mouth of the river 
 Scheldt, on which it stands, and its merchants 
 having removed to Rotterdam the city is re- 
 duced to 90,000 persons. Antwerp is the 
 birthplace of the Flemish school of painters. 
 Here Yandyok was born. But the great 
 prophet of the city is Reubens. Here we 
 found his master-pieces; not only his De- 
 scent from the Cross, in the magnificent Ca- 
 thedral, but the Altar Piece, by his own 
 tomb* This is a holy family, in which hk 
 
173 
 
 Sb"wn portrait represents St. Gkobgb, his two 
 wives Mary and Martha, has father St. Je- 
 rome, his grandfather Time, and his son an 
 Angel. This picture is beyond praise. And 
 we found that Eeubens was one of the few 
 men who werelnjoying the posthumous fame 
 that so many have sought in vain. Here in 
 Antwerp is his statue, his house and hi» 
 tomb. Here are his descendants, Lords and 
 Ladies, rich and respectable. 
 
 We saw in the yard of St. Paurs Church a 
 horrible representation. On a high eminence 
 ot rock work was Christ upon the Cross, sur- 
 rounded by statues as large as life. This is 
 Calvary. In a grotto near by is the holy sep-^ 
 ulohre and the body of Christ. Next comes 
 Purgatory, with agonized figures struggling 
 in the flames. We turned away in disgust^ 
 dreaming of barbarous and benighted lands. 
 
 In passing from Antwerp to this city we 
 were reminded at Mechlin of the lace makers 
 and at Vilvorde of Tindal, the translator of 
 the Bible into English, who was here stran-* 
 gled at the stake. 
 
 Brussels contains 135,000 inhabitants. — r 
 Here resides King Leopold and his Court, 
 The new town is finely built of white stone, 
 upon the highest hill we have seen this iide 
 of Germany. The Palace is upon this cmi^ 
 
174 
 
 1 
 
 nence, in front of an immense park of shaded 
 walks and streaming fountains. The King is 
 said to govern wisely for the peace and pros- 
 perity of his kingdom, and this inland city is 
 said to be prospering. It is Paris upon a 
 small scale. It is famous fortts lace and car- 
 pets. We saw an establishment where wo- 
 men, with weakened eyes, were making lace 
 by hand. 
 
 The most absorbing attraction at Brussels 
 is Waterloo, twelve miles out. The sound of 
 cannon kept ringing in our ears, and the lines 
 of Byron kept running in our heads, about 
 the Duchess of Kichmond's ball, the night be- 
 fore the battle, where, amid the revelry, once 
 and again a deep sound is heard : 
 
 "And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before, 
 
 Arm ! arm ! it is— it is— the cannon's opening roar." 
 
 And then the rushing out to die. And then 
 the heaps upon heaps in one vast burial. 
 
 The English supposed they were fighting 
 for liberty, but we see now that it was for 
 tyranny and popery. Bonaparte was ambi- 
 tious, but wherever he went Inquisitions and 
 useless Convents were broken up, despotisms 
 were crippled, industry was encouraged, and 
 mind was awakened. We now see that 
 through the lost field of Waterloo a dark 
 Wiave of despotism and popery has rolled 
 
1% 
 
 itself over the fair fields of Europe. We 
 spent yesterday upon that field. The first 
 object there is an enormous pyramid of earth 
 200 feet high. There is a marble structure 
 upon the top, upon which stands a prodigious 
 lion with his right foot resting upon a globe. 
 The most interesting spot upon the field is 
 the Chateau of Hougoumont Here was the 
 hardest fighting. This was the front of Wel- 
 lington's position. We saw the rude holes 
 in the thick garden wallsmade for Welling- 
 ton's cannon. His army on the rising ground 
 behind could fir6 over these walls. This 
 Chateau was never taken by the French. — 
 As we stood upon that battle field and saw 
 the position of each General and each army, 
 the places of attack and repulse, the spot 
 where prominent men fell — as we thought of 
 IsTapolkon's disappointment at Q-rouohy's 
 absence, and of Wellington's joy at Blu- 
 Cher's entrance ; the frenzied attack of the 
 Old French Gruard, when all but ITey were 
 slain ; the fearful danger of Napoleon's per- 
 son, and the hurried flight of his shattered 
 host, as we saw these places, and heard 
 the venerable Sergeant Mundy, an actor on 
 that field, narrate its horrid particulars of 
 blood and woe, the large party together were 
 all weeping like children. We could not 
 
174 
 
 kelp it. It Tf AS so sad, and ghastly and real. 
 The burial ground of 30,000 men, smitten in 
 a day. And when we entered the little mu- 
 seum and saw the broken swords, the torn 
 coats, the rusty guns, the pierced helmets, 
 and then looked out upon thfe great mound 
 where ^'horse and rider, friend and foe," were 
 all buried together, we could not but exclaim 
 ' JLre these earth's heroes, and is this all of 
 •arth's glory?'* 
 
 Tonn, truly, W. IT, N. 
 
NO. XXVI. 
 
 LoND'T'N, JulylT 1858. 
 Ourla^tcomraiinica^ion, dear friends, closed 
 upon the field of Waterloo. As this was to 
 end our sight-seeing upon the Continent, the 
 question arose next morning, at our Hotel m 
 Brussels, *'IIo\v shall we reach London ?'* 
 "Shall we take the cars for Calais and recross 
 the Channel ; or, shall we go to Antwerp, 
 spend the night upon the North Sea, and run 
 up the river Thames ? The Sea might be un- 
 pleasant, but there are two things in its favor 
 — the route is new to us, and cheaper to the 
 party by twenty dollars. Suppose we de- 
 cide it by vote ? Ah ! two for the Channel 
 and two lor the Sea. Unfortunate ; what 
 shall be done ?" The young man, upon his 
 own responsibility, throws up a copper and 
 hurrahs for the Sea. Well, then, pack the 
 trunks, call the carriage, and I will pay the 
 bills. And now, ^'Driver, for the Antwerp 
 station." We pass by the great Park ; and 
 here, cries one, is the old school house where 
 Charlotte Bronte laid the scene of her 
 '*VilleUe," and there is the Duchess of Rich- 
 mond's ball room, where the elite of Britain's 
 23 
 
178 
 
 soldiers were assembled previous to the battle 
 of Waterloo, and here is the old Cathedral of 
 St. Gudale, and here is the Antwerp Station, 
 and here is Antwerp itself. "Driver, take us 
 to the London Steamer." We sail down the 
 Scheldt into the open sea, and then farewell 
 forever to the Continent of Europe. 
 
 How much have we seen and suffered! — 
 What toil and joy ! No storms or illness 
 have detained us an hour. May the grati- 
 tude of our hearts correspond with the great- 
 ness of God's favors. 
 
 Soon after land is discovered in the morn- 
 ing we enter the Thames. We pass Graves- 
 end, Woolwich Arsenal, the East India 
 Dock?, Blackwell, and Greenwich, with its 
 palatial Hospital, surmounted with cupolas^ 
 and its Observatory, upon which we all de- 
 pend for our longitude, and here are the old 
 hospital gun ships, and here the Great Eas- 
 tern, that will float an army. And now for 
 miles the stream is crowded with ships, 
 wherries, barges, vessels and steaTfiers of all 
 shapes and szes. We land ixt last and take 
 a carriage for our lodgings. And here upon 
 our left is the Tunnel under the Thames, and 
 here are the London Docks. The Docks of 
 London are not near to the river, but hund- 
 reds of acres of land in the city are excavat- 
 
1^9 
 
 ed and a place constructed for the water and 
 the shipping. Next are the Eoyal Mint and 
 the Tower. And there are London Bridge 
 and the towering monument that commemo- 
 rates the great fire of 16G6. And now come 
 in succession the Bank of England, the Royal 
 Exchange, St. Paul's Cathedral and the 
 Strand. And on this way, through lhehe<irt 
 of the great city, our horses walk in a line of 
 carriageFj of all sizes and shape?, i'rom **The 
 Noah's Ark" to the wheelbarrow ; and what 
 a rushing of pedestrians, shouting of men, 
 snaoping of whips and rattling of wheels.^ 
 And there before us are Trafalgar Square and 
 Charing Cross, with the statues of Napier, 
 Nelson, Charles I and G-eorge IY, and then 
 comes Whitehall, where Charles I was exe- 
 cuted, and Cromwell's house, and Downing 
 street, and then Westminster Abbey. But, 
 * ^Driver, turn down Cecil street, from the 
 Strand, ring at the old mansion facuig the 
 Thames." "Ah I George, a place for us?'* 
 **Yes; your old rooms are reserved, the 
 trunks you lefc are safe, and here is a bundle 
 of letters from America." Describe the joy 
 of this hour ! 
 
 The absorbing wonder of London is ita 
 vastness. Its present population is 2,500,- 
 ©00. And this host of beings may have air, 
 
for the Thames flows through the city, and I 
 have already found Parks enonp^h to occupy 
 two thousand ac:es of land. You cannot see 
 across them. In the midst of London you 
 may be lost in the country. Commencing 
 •with St. James Park, wherein isBr.ckiiigharn 
 Palace, the town residence ot the Queen, you 
 may walk all day amid the most varied and 
 fascinating^ scenery. In Hyde Paik, ccn* 
 taining 388 acres, there is a pasture, filled 
 with fat sheep and young children, all sport- 
 ing together. Around the borders of these 
 grounds are many miles of caniage way, 
 thronged with splendid vehicles. There are 
 hills, dales, woods, serpentines, ponds, canals, 
 bridges, walks, shrubs and flowers. There 
 are water fowl, statues, bands of music and 
 vast collections of animals and curiosities. 
 
 And these two thousand acres are sur- 
 rounded by fine dwellings and palaces. And 
 yet w^ith a continent at our command, Amer- 
 ican cities can hardly appreciate single 
 squares. We have nothirg worth the name 
 of parks. New York should have immense 
 grounds reaching from the Battery to Har- 
 lem ; and every smaller city should at once 
 appropriate hundreds of acres for the same 
 purpose. 
 
 The largest building Id London and ik% 
 
isi 
 
 largest Q-otlnc edifice in the world is the 
 House of Parliament. It covers eighteea 
 acres of land. The foundation upon one side 
 stands in the Thames. The facade upon the 
 river is 900 feet long and is adorned with 
 statues of the Kings and Queens of England 
 f P m the time of William the Conqueror. — 
 The other side of the building faces West- 
 m'nster Abbey. The materials of this im*- 
 mense structure are stone and iron. Eire 
 will not consume it. The princely Tower of 
 Victoria is seventy five feet square and three 
 hundred and forty feet high. The Q'leen 
 enters the house of Parliament through this 
 Tower under a magnificent arch sixty-five 
 feet high. In its unfinished state the build- 
 ing has cost the nation twelve millions of 
 dollars. The next wonder of London is the 
 British Museum. It is a city in miniature. 
 There seems to be here a specimen of every 
 being that ever lived and of everything that 
 was ever made. It would take a week to 
 walk through the rooms with any degree of 
 attention. I can give yon no description of 
 the Egyptian, Assyrian and E'uscan galler- 
 ies. I will not name the dozen entire collec- 
 tions of ancient and modern marbles and 
 bronzes. Heie is the Poitland vase foun4 
 threo miles from Rome. la 1845 it was 
 
182 
 
 smashed to pieces by a mad man, but is now 
 repaired. Here is Nap leon's goli and dia- 
 mond sriuff box, with bis mirrature portrait. 
 Here sccms to be endless galleiies, contain- 
 ing stone', birds, beasts, fisli, plants and 
 insects from the four quarters of the globe. — 
 The Library c )ntains more than halt a mil- 
 lion tf books beside manuscript prints and 
 paintings. Here is the largest colieelion of 
 American books in the world. Here we saw 
 the Magazine Bible, the first book ever 
 printed. It: is from the press of Guttemberg, 
 in 1455. Here we saw autograph letters 
 from most of the reigning monarchs and lit- 
 erary sovereigns of the last ihree centuries. 
 The magnificent leading room is circular 
 with a dome about ihe size of the Pantheon 
 at Rome. This museum and many other 
 Bitish galleiies are entered without fee. 
 
 The Tower of London is a vast succession 
 of buildings surmounted with round towers 
 and arranged around an cpen court yard. — 
 It has been used as a citadel, a palace, a pris- 
 on, a menagerie, a receptacle for crown jew- 
 els, ail ancient armory and old relics. I 
 hu- ried by the j iwels and curiosities to see 
 the Thames Gate, \\here Sydney Russel, 
 Raleigh and Cramner passed as piisonersof 
 Btate ; the towers where Anna Boleyn, Lady 
 
183 
 
 Jane Grey, Gut Fawkes and the Duke of 
 
 Buckingham scratched their names in the 
 prison walls; the room where the Duke of 
 Clarence was drowDed in a butt of wine and 
 the tower where the sons of Edward IV 
 were murdered. On Tower IliU many of 
 the prisoners of state were executed. I have 
 no time to speak of the Marlborough House, 
 the National Galleries, the Royal Palaces, 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, the Bank of England, 
 the Royal Exchange, the public statues, 
 streets, gardens and bridges, the Chapter 
 House with its Doomsday book and its wills 
 of Shakespeare, Newton and Johnson. — 
 Oh I London, what a world ot business, ro- 
 mance and antiquity thou art. I will bid 
 ihee farewell in Westminster Abbey. Not 
 araong the chapels and monuments of war- 
 riors, statesmen and monarchs, but a/one, 
 sadly and lovingly in the 'Toets Corner." — 
 ''Here amid those who have sung all the 
 songs of romance and beauty and who have 
 experienced all the joys and woes and pas- 
 sions of life ; here alone in a spot all covered 
 with the dust of poesy and the traces of 
 genius, I breathe forth the tearful sigh, 'fare- 
 well to London I' " 
 
 Yours in love and haste, W. W. N. 
 
NO. XXVII. 
 
 Oxford, July 23, 1859. 
 Very Dear Friends — During oar first visit 
 to London we heard some of the best speak- 
 ers in Parliament, during our last visit we 
 heard snme of the best preachers. Early on 
 Sunday morning we crossed the Waterloo 
 bridge and walked two miles through the 
 plebeian part of London, to hear Mr. Spurgeon 
 at the Surry gardens. The mu^ic hall will 
 hold 7000 persons. IJaving tickets we enter- 
 ed, and passed up to the 2d gallery. Soon 
 the doors were opened and the crowd rushed 
 in. Every seat was occupied. Mr. Spurgeon 
 entered and kneeled over the Bible in silent 
 prayer. The first words he uttered revealed 
 to me one of the secrets of his power, a full, 
 musical voice, with an utterance so distinct 
 that every person in that vast assemblage 
 heard the minutest syllable. The singing 
 was grand. He lined out the hymns, and the 
 choir behind the dtsk and the whole congre- 
 ga'ion sang with a loill. Some persons have 
 called Mr. Spurgeon a nobody. This is sim- 
 p y ridiculous. A congre^'ation of six or sev- 
 en thousand will not come together for years 
 
i8g 
 
 to bear nothing. The sermon we heard was 
 logical, somewhat intellectual, and highly 
 practical. He makes remarks that are hyper- 
 Calvinistic, exhorts his people to go home and 
 repent, is sometimes wanting in refinement 
 and good taste, and yet men are impressed 
 and converted. He preaches without notes, 
 is exceedingly fluent, and uses simple, forci- 
 ble Saxon language. His hearers do not need 
 a dictionary. He studies ancient authors and 
 modern men. His thoughts are often quaint 
 and strong", his illustrations are gathered from 
 the whole universe of God, often moral pic- 
 tares of dramatic interest. His manner is 
 earnest and natural, he is bold, independent 
 and pointed, and though unequal to some 
 American preachers, I believe him destined 
 of God to a great work. We were surprised 
 to find himself and his lady so pleasant in 
 their appearance and so very agreeable in pri- 
 vate intercourse. They live six miles from 
 town and have two little boys. He spoke to 
 us warmly of America, and has some idea of 
 visiting the country. But, said he, with 
 warmth, " If I come, I shall come to work." 
 On Sabbath afternoon we heard the Rev* 
 Oapel Molyneaux, Chaplain of Lock Hospital, 
 at Exeter Hall. This was a very remarkable 
 
 service. The low- church Episcopalians of 
 24 
 
186 
 
 London, anxious to reach the multitude that 
 cannol be drawn into the Episcopal churches, 
 raised a Committee to establish a free service 
 on Sabbath afternoon in Exeter Hall. The 
 Chairman of the Committee, the Earl of 
 Shaftsbury, was seated next to the preacher, 
 and Exeter Hall was crowded. The entire 
 service was a novelty. There Were neither 
 notes, prayer book or a change of vestments* 
 An American would call the sermon some- 
 what desultory, but it was evangelical, prac- 
 tical and earnest. At the end of the service, 
 I could utter a hearty *' Amen, God speed 
 the movement." 
 
 In the evening we heard the Rev. Dr. Cum- 
 ming, the distinguished author, and the min- 
 ister of the National Scotch Church, Covent 
 Garden. The house w*is full. The Dr.'s lec- 
 ture was extemporaneous, expository, illus- 
 trative and entertaining. He told a capital 
 story about Luther. On the presentation of 
 our letters, we found him exceedingly genial 
 for so noted a controversialists I had made 
 the remark that I did not believe he ever de- 
 livered a discourse without referring to Ro- 
 manists. Singular enough, the first words 
 I ever heard him utter were upon this sub- 
 ject. When I ventured to tell him this, he 
 saidj " many Catholics have been converted 
 
187 
 
 under my preaching*, among them the Duke 
 of Norfolk, the Premier Duke of England 
 became a communicant and continued a mem- 
 ber of my church until his death." He said 
 the Hon. Abbott Lawrence was for years a 
 communicant in his church, and was any thing 
 but a Unitarian. When begging one Sabbath 
 day in his pulpit for a starving orphan family, 
 he requested those who would contribute £5 
 to meet him in the vestry. '* And who do 
 you think," he says, *^was the first man there 
 with his £5? Mr. Buchanan, your President." 
 He then added, '• I like the Americans. I 
 like their reading, it is original and spicy." 
 
 We have heard Dickens read in public. 
 Since his doniestic troubles a revulsion of feel- 
 ing has come over his admirers. His loving, 
 happy views of private life seemed to them 
 the outbursts of his own experience. But 
 the spell is broken. He has parted from his 
 wife. But Dickens will always be popular 
 with the poor and curiosity tends to swell .he 
 crowd. He looks faded and worn. His ready- 
 ing is good. 
 
 We supposed we had seen William Cob- 
 bett. At Madame Tussaud's inimitable col- 
 lection, wax figures wear clothing. Mr. Cob- 
 bett sat winking and moving before a most 
 attractive group. An impatient person, said 
 
188 
 
 in our hearing, *' that man, with his Quaker 
 hat, takes up more than his share of space 
 and time." He finally gave him a push. To 
 our utter surprise and amusement, it was 
 William Cobbett, in wax. 
 
 Every person in London should make an 
 excursion up the Thames. The hospital should 
 be seen at Chelsea. At the Kew Gardens we 
 saw the old family residence of George III, 
 the magnificent palm house, the famous Vic- 
 toria Regia and the most fascinating pleasure 
 grounds. Next comes Hampton Court. — 
 When Henry VHI received these palace 
 grounds from Cardinal Woolsey he closed the 
 gates and banished the people. The present 
 Queen has opened to the public this world of 
 treasure and beauty. 
 
 The most perfect excursion we made was to 
 the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. This is the 
 Palace of the People^ and it is above and be- 
 yond all the palaces of kings. It designs to 
 exhibit the peculiarities of the world. Wild 
 beasts seem to be roaming over the grounds 
 and monsters are upon the lakes. Within the 
 stupendous building there are open apart- 
 ments, representing the scenery, habits and 
 people of each portion of the globe, the beau- 
 tiful things of the modern world. There are 
 daily concerts of music with hundreds of in- 
 
189 
 
 struments and sometimes 1000 singers. Our 
 day at Sydenham was above all description. 
 On our way from London we spent a day at 
 Windsor. This castle palace is an immense 
 pile of irregular buildings with round and 
 octagonal towers. It stands upon the high 
 bank of the Thames. From the loftiest tow- 
 er we have a superb view of the Eton school 
 upon the opposite bank. Modern kings of 
 buried in the chapel, beneath simpleslabs are 
 marble. When Mr. Wyatt, the architect of 
 these tombs, apologized to George III. for 
 speaking to him upon the subject, he said, 
 " It is a pleasant subject, and if God will I am 
 ready to die this night." We rode through 
 magnificent parks, 5 miles long, and saw thou- 
 sands of deer. We saw a hall in the castle 
 filled with the pictures of men who were en- 
 gaged at the battle of Waterloo. It was call- 
 ed the Waterloo gallery. On the recent visit 
 of Napoleon 3d, the name was changed. The 
 Queen is said to shun Windsor on account of 
 its publicity, and because of the many relics 
 here of George 4th, her uncle, whose charac- 
 ter she detests. 
 
 We find Oxford the most delightful town 
 in Europe. It is covered all over with colle- 
 ges, halls, churches, monuments, libraries, 
 chapels, castles and museums, and all in the 
 
190 
 
 richest styles of ancient and modern archi- 
 tecture. The space around these buildings is 
 filled up with dwellings, walks, meadows, 
 parks, groves and streams. Oxford is upon 
 low ground between two small rivers. It con- 
 tains 24 distinct colleges and halls, 25,000 
 inhabitants. A distinct letter should be writ- 
 ten upon the peculiar beauties here. We 
 have bowed with reverence before the monu- 
 ment to Cranmer, Ridley and Lattimer who 
 died here for the faith. We have spent much 
 time in the Bodleian Library. If all the books 
 in Oxford were gathered here it would far 
 surpass the largest library in the world. But 
 the sweetest place here is Addison's walk. — 
 It is in a park connected with Magdalen Col- 
 lege. Here are the winding stream, the old 
 mill, the dark foliage, and distant glimpses of 
 grazing deer, and green meadows, and pala- 
 tial turrets, towers and spires. Here strolled 
 Cardinal Woolsey, Hampden, Tindall, Gibbon, 
 Addison and a host of celebrities, belonging 
 to Magdalen College. And here we have sat 
 down upon old hollow stumps filled with lau- 
 rustin and have sunk into a revery of romance 
 and sadness too sacred for words. 
 
 Yours, &c., W. W. N. 
 
NO. XXVlll. 
 
 Abbotsford, July 28, 185S. 
 
 Very Dear Friends — In Addison's walk at 
 Oxford, we were delighted to meet Rev. Mr* 
 James and Rev. Mr. Gould, from America, 
 They accompanied us to Warwick, Stratford 
 and Kenilworth Castle. Warwick Castle is a 
 perfect sample of old feudal times. The wind- 
 ing avenue is 20 feet wide, through solid rock, 
 covered with hanging ivy. Here are towers^ 
 gateway, moat, portcullis, turret and battle- 
 ment. The Earls of this castle are mingled 
 with the history of England from the time of 
 King Arthur. Here were the giant Guy and 
 the King Maker; here the friends of Crom* 
 well and of Charles 2d, of Elizabeth and of 
 Philip Sidney. The castle stands upon a high 
 bank of the Avon and we saw the old mill 
 used by the family for centuries. The house 
 is full of shields, helmets and antiquities. — 
 Here Kings and Queens, Knights and Lords^ 
 have been entertained. Queen Victoria dined 
 here recently. We saw her room as she left 
 it. Here are the Warwick vase from Tivoli^ 
 and old cedars from Lebanon. The present 
 Earl is obliged to be economical. We saw 
 the children in a plain carriage* 
 
192 
 
 We were charmed and excited beyond 
 measure at Stratford. We found it a quiet 
 old town, sleepin^^ on the banks of the Avon. 
 We rushed up to Shakspeare's house, stood 
 in the chamber where he was born, looked 
 into the chimney corner where he mused and 
 saw the walls all Covered with the names of 
 Nobles, Commoners and Peasants. The 
 church is charming. It is on the bank of the 
 Avon, surrounded with graves. We approach- 
 ed it through rows of lime trees. Tn front 
 of the altar we stood over the dust of earth's 
 great genius. I trembled with exstacy and 
 thanked God that one of the dreams of my 
 life was realized. There I lingered entranced. 
 It was so sweet, so still, so perfect, just as I 
 would have it. We wandered down the bank 
 and over the town, gathering facts and relics. 
 Little is known of Shakspeare, and every bo- 
 dy knows that little. He became rich, re- 
 spectable, sober and it may be religious. His 
 Only son died young. No man bears his name, 
 but all men revere it. 
 
 We found Kenil worth Castle a perfect ruin. 
 It was surrounded with verdure and covered 
 with ivy. By the witchery of Scott every 
 tower seemed to be inhabited. The Earl of 
 Leicester spent $85,000 in a single entertain- 
 ment given here to Queen Elizabeth. W e saw 
 
198 
 
 his room and hers and Amy Robsart's, and 
 the place where the two ladies unfortunately 
 met. How still and desolate now ! As we 
 stood and viewed *' the gay and festive scene, 
 the h^lls of dazzling light," all a ruin and its 
 actors gone, all gone forever, we felt that the 
 romance of our nature had a right to rule us, 
 and it did. 
 
 At Birmingham we stopped at the famous 
 hotel of the city, " the Hen and Chickens." 
 This central manuf^icturing city, with its quar- 
 ter of a million of inhabitants, far surpassed 
 my anticipations. We were delighted with 
 the Rev. John Angel James. On presenting 
 my letters he was exceedingly fatherly and 
 genial. He said, laughing, "I suppose you are 
 a D. D." I said *' no, w'e untitled men con^ 
 gratulate ourselves on being in company with 
 Rev. John Angel James.'' "Ah," said he, 
 ^' your country once gave me the degree, but 
 I never could descend from an Angel to a 
 Doctor.'^'' He called at our hotel, invited us to 
 breakfast, gave us each one of his works, said 
 he had preached in one place 54 j'ears. On 
 Sabbath afternoon we enjoyed the unspeakable 
 privilege of hearing him. He spoke without 
 notes, but with great fervency, point and pow-^ 
 er. By appointment I addressed his people 
 
 upon the American revival. He added a wor4 
 
 25 
 
194 
 
 and prayed with such earnestness that the 
 interview might be blessed to one soul, that I 
 felt that I was in the midst of a revival. He 
 said he stood by the gateway of Heaven. He 
 charged us to meet him there — and when he 
 gave us his parting blessing, we felt that we 
 had been blessed by a Patriarch. 
 
 From Eirmingham we tuined our faces in 
 good earnest toward" the great North. We 
 reached York the first day. Thi-s is one of 
 the old and respectable cities in England. — 
 We were greatly interested in examining it, 
 on account of its famous luinster and its great 
 activity in the civil wars between York and 
 Lancaster. We were in time for the daily 
 service in the Cathedral. There was do ser- 
 mon. The reading was dull, but the singing 
 performed by boys in canonicals, was exceed- 
 ingly fine. 
 
 Newcastle on the Tyne we found a busy, 
 populous, smoky, manufacturing city. This 
 is the region so famous for coal. AYe passed 
 on over poor soil, by tall chimneys and splen- 
 did castles. At the mouth of the Tweed we 
 came to the walls, and bastions, and ditches 
 of Berwick. AYe dined upon their fresh sal- 
 mon. We were greatly excited at being in 
 the border towns of Scotland. But they said 
 that Edward VT, and Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 
I 
 
 I9S 
 
 bad made them a free town, and that thef 
 were neither Scotch nor English. 
 
 We spent last night at Kelso. This is not 
 ^nly Scotch, but as Sir Walter Scott has said^ 
 "^^ It is the most romantic town in Scotland." 
 W€ picked a flower in the grounds of the 
 charming manse, om the banks of the Tweed, 
 where Mary Lundie Duncan w^s born, and 
 were happj to learn that her sister is wife of 
 the present pastor. This morning we reached 
 Melrose Abbey. It is just as Scott has paint- 
 ed it. We examined it within, we stood over 
 the spot where lay the heart of the Royal 
 Bruce. We viewed the outside from a stone 
 in the grave yard where Sir Walter used to 
 muse. We then climbed up into a little nook 
 and dreamed long and sadly of the ^ast, the 
 past, the past. 
 
 We find Abbotsford three miles from Mel- 
 rose. The situaticn is low. The building is 
 an irregular gothic, covered with gables, but- 
 tresses, balconies and relics from all parts of 
 Scotland. Inside, w^e find farniture present-- 
 ed by George lY, a green velvet; note book 
 left by Napoleon at Waterloo, and curiosities 
 and arms from all the world. From the room 
 where Sir Walter breakfasted with his litera- 
 ry friends, we look out upon the charming 
 banks of the Tweed. And here is his studj?:. 
 
196 
 
 S5 feet square. The sides of the high room 
 are filled with books protected by an iron net 
 work. And now we sit down at his writing 
 table, in his leathern covered chair. And 
 here is his little room which he called his 
 *' Speak a bit" And here are his blue coat 
 and plaid trowsers, and large hat, and heavy 
 shoes, just as he wore them last. Oh ! it 
 seems like a funeral, so sad and sweet. ArA 
 here we talk about him with his old forrester 
 servant, John Swardson, till he and we are all 
 crying. Here was the most popular writer 
 and the most loving friend in Europe dying 
 in sorrow. He rose from obscurity, was made 
 a Baronet by George IV, built his castle, form- 
 ed his family and hoped to connect his name 
 with a landed estate for all time. In a busi- 
 ness partnershi[) at Edinburgh, he failed for 
 $600,000. By intense writing for seven years 
 he paid $300,000. This broke his constitu* 
 tion. He was invited to visit Italy in a gov- 
 ernment ship. He came home dying. He 
 rests in the old vine covered Abbey at Dry^ 
 burgh. His baronetcy has become extinct by 
 the death of his son. The husband of his 
 grand-daughter is wealthy, but so nearly a 
 Catholic that the Bishop of London refuses 
 to consecrate the English chapel he has built 
 there. They are here and have a son and two 
 
197 
 
 daughters.* In musing upon these crushid 
 hopes of Shakspeare and Sit* Walter Scott^ 
 the prayer has gone up from my heart of 
 hearts for me and mine, " 0, God ! give un^ 
 
 to us a place in that house not made with 
 hands, eternal in the Heavens." 
 
 Sadly and truly your friend, W. W. N. 
 
 *Smce the above date, the mother, one of her daugh^ 
 ters and her son, the only male descendant of Sir WaU 
 ter Scott, have been gathered into the old burial ground 
 '^t Dryburgh Abbey. 
 
NO. XXl2t=, 
 
 Edinburgh, Aug. 2, 185S. 
 
 Dh ! that our dear friends could share with 
 tis the joy of being in Scotland. We have 
 passed the border and the heath, the field of 
 Flodden and the Castle of Scotland's great 
 Magician. We hav-e viewed the Palace of 
 Buccleugh and Roslin XJastle. Nothing can 
 exceed the contrast of these two placets. The 
 Palace is a perfect home, with an immense lawn 
 of velvet green, and every variety of stream 
 and flower, of hill and grove. Roslin Castle 
 is a wild ruin on a wooded hill, too precipit- 
 ous for a decent path. Up this Scottish glen, 
 we also saw Hawthornden, an old, inhabited, 
 ivy-covered castle, hanging from a huge pre- 
 cipice over a running stream. There is a 
 hole in the side of the well leading to deep 
 caverns in the earth, where such heroes as 
 Wallace and Bruce used to be secreted. Pas- 
 Sing the old residence of Hugh Miller and 
 Jennie Deans, Salisbury Craig and Arthurs's 
 Seat, we reached our quarters in Prince 
 street, too happy to rest. 
 
 Edingburg is a city of peculiar location and 
 wonderful beauty. The highest central point 
 
199 
 
 ia the city is the Old Castle. For 700 years? 
 this fortress has stood perched upon a high 
 precipice, bristling defiance to all the world. 
 What a history of blood and woe have this 
 castle and the Tower of London. Here James 
 1st of England was born. From these battle- 
 ments we look off some 30 miles beyond the 
 Frith of Forth to the castle of Loch Leven, 
 from which Queen Mary escaped. We see 
 around the city, bencTolent and scientific in- 
 stitutions, which have all the grandeur, and 
 magnificence of palaces. At our feet, the 
 city is divided into the new and old town by 
 a long deep ravine. Flocks of sh'jep are feed-- 
 ing on one side, shrubs and trees are grow- 
 ing upon the other. Through the bottom of 
 the gorge runs the railroad track, all embew-, 
 ered in verdure and foliage. As we look 
 over to the new town, we see squares, statues, 
 churches and palatial dwellings — all of light 
 colored free-stone. Prince street, has build- 
 ings upon one side and the ravine upon the 
 other. Here stands the magnificent monu- 
 ment to vSir Walter Scott. Its talented 
 architect died of dissipation before it was 
 completed. Prince street runs out to Calton- 
 hill, a bold, precipitous eminence, on which 
 stand the elaborate monuments of Burns^ 
 Nelson, DijgclDj Stewart and Pi^AYfAiR.,—- 
 
200 
 
 The old and new town are united by immense 
 arches of hewn stone. On the old town side 
 there are houses nine stories below the 
 bridges and three stories above them. As 
 we pass down from the castle upon the great 
 street in the old town, parallel with the 
 gorge, we find the new college, Dr. Guthrie's 
 new church, St. Giles church, the old houses 
 of Parliament, the room where Effie Deans, 
 was tried, the library and the bank of Scot- 
 land. A little to the right are Cowgate and 
 Oanongate, and the church yard where the 
 old mart3TS signed the league and convenant 
 with their blood. On the left stands the 
 house that was occupied by John Knox, At 
 the bottom of the street, a mile from the 
 castle, is Holyrood Palace. Here we have 
 seen the room 12 feet square, where Rizzio 
 was killed in the presence of Queen Mary, 
 Here are her bed and toilet as she left them 
 800 years ago. Just beyond the Palace are 
 Salisbury Craig and Arthur's Seat. The lat- 
 ter is a bold steep hill, 700 feet high, com- 
 manding one of the most glorious aod varied 
 ^iews on earth. 
 
 My first desire in Edinburgh was to see 
 the place from which the exodus of the free 
 ichurch of Scotland occurred. This was St. 
 Andrew'.:^ church. The state demanded sub- 
 
201 
 
 mis'-ioii of the church to the civil courts on 
 points that sometimes interfered with the dis- 
 cipline of ministers, and sometimes led to the 
 inst i]ia:;;on of ministers unacceptable to the 
 parish. Tiie help of Parliament was invoked 
 in vain. There was no hope. The church 
 must leave all for freedom. The general as- 
 sembly was to meet at St. Andrew's. Great 
 preparations had been made. The govern- 
 ment and aristocracy laughed at the move- 
 ment. The 18th of May, 1843, anived.— 
 Ed nburgh was full. St. Andrews's, as de- 
 scribed by an eye witness w^as crowded. — 
 '* The Moderator, Dr. Welsh, arose amid 
 breathless silence. Instead of opening the 
 assembl}^ he read a decided protest, then 
 bowing to the Lord High Commissioner, 
 w'alked down the aisle. Dv. Chalmers hur- 
 ried after, Dr's Gordon, McDonald, Candlish, 
 Macfarlan and Guthrie followed. This sight 
 was accompanied by cheers and tears. Row 
 after row moved along the aisle, 'till more than 
 800 ministers and elders had left the assembly. 
 The streets w^eve crowded. Business was 
 suspended. Three abreast, they passed 
 through the crowd to the hall of Canonmills. 
 Some gazed in wonder, some in scorn, some 
 in tears, but most in silent admiration. Civil 
 officers were greatly astonished and per- 
 26 
 
203 
 
 plexed. When some one burst into Lord 
 Jeffrey's room and told him the facts he 
 threw aside his book, sprang to his feet and 
 exclaimed, ** I am proud of my country." — 
 When 3,000 persona had crowded the hall, 
 Dr. Chalmebs was proclaimed chairman, amid 
 the waving of hats and handkerchiefs and 
 the most enthusiastic cheering." They had 
 relinquished a yearly revenue of half a million 
 dollars. Most of the clergy went from that 
 meeting without income and without a home. 
 Several died from want and exposure. Six 
 hundred congregations heard preaching most- 
 1}'' in the open air. Five hundred churches 
 were built in a year. A general fund was 
 raised for the eiergy. But t:iey had no par- 
 sonage, no manse. Dr. Guthre left his parish 
 for two years, and resolved to secure a par- 
 sonage for ever}'^ minister of the Free church. 
 He succeeded, but ruined his health and was 
 given over to die. He has recovered. But 
 Dr. Hanna, the son-in-law of Chalmers, is 
 his colleague, and he preaches but once on 
 the Sabbath. 
 
 One word in closing about the two men 
 now most prominent in the Free church of 
 Scotland. I have enjoyed Ihe pleasure of 
 breakfasting with Dr. Candlish, and of hear- 
 ing him preach. At home he is kind but not 
 
208 
 
 genial. In the d-esk his powerful reasoning 
 grappled ebsely with the conscience, and his 
 earn^stoess riveted the attention of the great 
 congregation. His manner is peculiar. He 
 starts up^ springs forward, twitches his 
 gown, strikes his forehead, throws hacks his 
 hair aad breaks out into most wonderful vo- 
 ciferations. He is said to be the most acute 
 reasoner in Scotland. His congregation wor- 
 ship in the new town of Edinghurgh, snd are 
 said to be the Hiost wealthy assembly In the 
 Free church. By procuring tickets, we se- 
 cured seats in Dr. Guthries' Ch^^arch. The 
 I>utchess of Sutherland was present, and he 
 is the favorite preacher of many of the nobil- 
 if. His chtirch is in the old town^ near to 
 the castle. After his entrance, th^e dooi's 
 were opened and the cix)wd rushed in, stand- 
 ing even under the pulpit. The Dn is very 
 tall, and as he kindles up, he gestures with 
 both hands and with his whole body. His 
 arguments ar=e full ^f life. His bounding 
 imagination paints and dramatizes the truth, 
 and h*s great heart humanizes it and brings 
 liim into perfect sympathy with his hearers. 
 His illustrati-ons are gorgeous, his brogue is 
 rich, and his largtiage most extraordinary. — 
 Lik« Chalmers himself, he carried us all 
 away. Yesterday, we supped with him. He 
 has a wife and ten children. 
 
204 
 
 The Dr's conversation is perfectly fascinat- 
 ing^. He told me that he wrote his sermons, 
 conned them over and left them at home. — 
 He told us about the covenanters and the free 
 church movement Hugh Miller^s derange- 
 ment and Sir Walter Scott's imbecility. — 
 After supper, he proposed a walk to the 
 cemetery. Ciialimers, his companion, Hugh 
 Miller, and an elder in his church, and 
 Rev. Mr. Dickinson, of Philadelphia, rest 
 together ; and over their graves this wonder- 
 ful mtin poare 1 forth a ton-ent of anecdote 
 eloquence and piety, almost enough to raise 
 them from the dead. At 10 o'clock, we had 
 a repast of oat meal, eggs and tea. Abou 
 midnight, he followed us to the gate and we 
 took our leave forever of earth's most fasci- 
 nating companion, and Scotland's most pop- 
 ular preacher. Yours, in haste and love. 
 
 W. W. N. 
 
NO. XXX 
 
 Ambleside, Lake Country, Aug. 11, 1858. 
 My Dear Friends — About two miles from 
 Edinburgh we took the steamer for Sterling. 
 We passed up the Firth of Forth until it wound 
 through the meadows like a coiled sea-serpent. 
 With Burns we could sing on our way, 
 
 "What rural sweets profusely throng, 
 The flowery links of Forth along." 
 
 Toward evening the castle of Sterling ap- 
 peared perched upon a high, rocky hill, hang- 
 ing directly over the river below. The back 
 slope of this hill is covered by the town. This 
 castle was the home of the old kings of Scot- 
 land. Every inch of it has its legend of blood 
 and wonder. Here are the old State dun- 
 geons and the small, quaint room where the 
 unfortunate Queen Mary was confined. In 
 the armory we saw the pulpit from which 
 John Knox thundered forth his majestic elo- 
 quence. Here Scotland's heroes figured. — 
 Just opposite the castle, across the Forth, is 
 the precipitous hill upon which Wallace 
 fought The Scotch are about erecting a mon- 
 ument on this prominence to his memory.— 
 The lawn which we see in the opposite direc- 
 
206 
 
 tion, slretelilng up to those grand old woods, 
 is the field of Btannockburn. The Scotch cov- 
 ered this field with hidden pits, and here, 500 
 years ago, the immortal Bruce delivered his 
 country and triumphed over Edward II, the 
 haughty King of England. 
 
 It was our intention to have spent but one 
 night in Sterling, but we were forcibly de- 
 tained by one of Ood's noblemen, Mr. Peter 
 Drummond. During the last eleven years Mr, 
 Drummond has published over 22 millions of 
 tracts at an expense to himself of over $10,000. 
 For six years he has published the British 
 Messenger, a truly able and religious period- 
 ical, edited by the accomplished author. Rev, 
 William Reid. He is a leader in every good 
 work. His home is an Eden. After dining 
 with him he in.sisted that we should meet 
 some friends at his house at supper, and that 
 I should attend the union prayer meeting at 
 the church, and give some account of the 
 American Revival. We had a loving, chris- 
 tian, heavenly time. On leaving Sterling, Mr. 
 Drummond, Mr. Reid and others met us at 
 the Depot, and with many presents and kind 
 words bade us adieu, with all the afieclion of 
 old friends. 
 
 From Sterling we started in the cars for the 
 highlands of Scotland. Passing Dunblane 
 
fOt 
 
 and Doune we came to Call end er. Near to Cal- 
 lender we passed the *• Cambusmore House," 
 where Sir Walter Scott conceived the idea 
 of writing his **Lady of the Lake." Here we 
 took coaches for the Trossacks, We passed 
 up Loch Yennacher, on whose baoks of "prick- 
 ly gorse and coarse fens" Roderick Dhu as- 
 sembled his clan. After two more small lakes 
 and many wild hills, we entered the Trossacks 
 The Trossacks are a thickly wooded glen, a 
 mile and a half long, between two wild and 
 lofty mountains At the termination of this 
 ravine we went on board a funny little steam- 
 er and passed up Loch Katrine. This was the 
 scene of Fitz James' adventures, and upon 
 these banks and islands Douglass and his 
 daughter were concealed. Here Rob Roy 
 was born. This was the northern extremity 
 of our travels. From Katrine we passed in 
 coaches to Loch Lomond. We found the inn 
 at Inversnaid, on the banks of the Loch, di- 
 rectly under an immense frowning highland. 
 A mountain stream came rushing and foam- 
 ing down the precipice, which we viewed from 
 ft little foot bridge. This was one of those 
 nooks of beauty one can never forget. Wt 
 lounged upon grass covered banks and moss- 
 covered rocks, while the heath and the fox- 
 glove^ the pride of the meadow and the hea« 
 
ther bell tlourished around in the greatest 
 wildness and profusion. On our way down the 
 Loch we passed Ben Lommond, whose grand 
 summit towers liigh above the surrounding 
 highlands. At the southern extremity of the 
 Loch we took the cars for Glasgow. After 
 passing magnificent castles, mouldering ru- 
 ins and Dumbarton on the Clyde, we reached 
 the great manufacturing city of Scotland. Our 
 hotel looked out upon a beautiful square con- 
 taining the statues of Watt and Sir Walter 
 Scott. I was greatly surprised at the extent 
 and beauty of Glasgow. Fifty years ago it 
 was a manufacturing place with 70,000 peo- 
 ple, now it is a magnificent city of half a mil- 
 lion. Then Kelvin Grove was a distant ter- 
 ritory, now it is a splendid park, with stream 
 and lawn, with hill and wood. The music 
 here was equal to London or Paris, Rome or 
 Venice. The established church in Scotland 
 is Presbyterian. The prominent preachers in 
 Edinburgh belong to the free church, in Glas- 
 gow they belong to the establishment. The 
 most popular preacher in Glasgow is Mr. 
 Caird. We were at his bouse and his church. 
 He preaches in the finest part of the city and 
 his beautiful church is always full. His ser- 
 mons display much thought and good taste. 
 When he speaks without notes his manner is 
 
209 
 
 exceedingly free and energetic. His name 
 was early proclaimed to the world by his ser- 
 mon before the Queen of England. We 
 were at Dr. Wardlaw's old church. We al- 
 so heard a good Presbyterian sermon in the 
 old cathedral so graphically described by Sir 
 Walter Scott. In the cemetery upon the hill 
 adjoining, we found the most costly and elab- 
 orate monuments. As we stood over the ce- 
 notaph of Knox, a Londoner present exclaim- 
 ed, *' Scotland owes her freedom, religion and 
 prosperity to that one man." However this 
 may be, with the exception of dram drinking, 
 the Scotch are wonderfully intelligent, moral 
 and orthodox. Through the efforts of Mr. 
 John Henderson and others, immense num- 
 bers of books have been distributed among 
 the working people, and the dram shops of 
 Glasgow are closed upon the Sabbath. The 
 quiet of the Sabbath in this great city seem- 
 ed like a New England town. The example 
 of these merchant princes, Peter Drummond 
 upon the Firth of Forth, and John Hender- 
 son upon the Firth of Clyde, I wish to pre° 
 sent to my countrymen. Their names will 
 live in the hearts of thousands when the sim- 
 ply rich or great are gone and forgotten. 
 We left Glasgow greatly excited with the 
 
 idea of seeing the last home and the grave of 
 27 
 
210 
 
 Burns. We arrived at Dumfries in the even- 
 ing. After breakfast we went to the small, 
 one story house, in which he so long lived, 
 and to the little chamber where he died. We 
 sat down in his pew in the old kirk, and we 
 lingered long over the splendid monument 
 that covers his body in. the beautiful church 
 yard. It is a classic, octagonal, marble build- 
 ing, surmounted with a dome. He had once 
 said that the genius of poetry had found him 
 at the plough, as Elijah had found Elisha. — 
 This is represented in marble. Under the 
 dome Burns is looking up to the genius of po- 
 etry, who is throwing her mantle over him^ 
 while with his left hand he has hold of a 
 plough. A most charming and spirited thing. 
 Burns was the sweet bard of Scotland, and 
 is still loved as her first poet. Prof. Wilson 
 says that *' Burns loved men and sun^hine^ 
 grass and flowers to the end ; that his sceptic- 
 al doubts flitted like shadows away, and that 
 he had at last the faith of a christian." He 
 has two sons in England, both men of wealth 
 and respectability.^ 
 
 On our way from Dumfries we passed Grct- 
 na Green, Carlisle, and Penrith. At Kendall 
 we took the train for this Lake Country, in 
 the north of England. Last night we found 
 Ambleside crowded with tourists. We final- 
 
211 
 
 ly secured lodgincrs in a sweet little ivy cov- 
 -ered cottage occupied by Miss Martineau's 
 gardener. This romantic region of lake and 
 mountain has for years been the rural home 
 of the English Poets. Here were Coler- 
 idge and Southey. Oh! that I had room 
 for a full sketch. This has been a day of en-* 
 chantment. We have rowed five miles on 
 Lake Windermere. We have seen the old 
 liomes of Prof. Wilson *and Mrs. Hcmans, of 
 H. Coleridge and DeQuincy. We have bathed 
 our hands in Rydal Lake and have lingered 
 long on Rydal Mount. This old home of 
 Wordsworth is on the side of a steep hill, bu- 
 Tied in ivy and roses. We have sat down up- 
 on his mound of soft grass and velvet moss. 
 We have caught glimpses of the wild hills 
 and sweet lakes. We have copied the verses 
 he inserted in the rocks, upon brass plates. 
 We have seen his playing grand-children. — 
 We have received from his old gardener, James 
 Dixon, some seeds of his favorite fox glove. 
 We have lounged upon his rustic seats, by the 
 spring, in the wild glen. But the voices of 
 these Poets are hushed In death. And he, the 
 sweet minstrel of nature, sleeps in the church 
 yard at the bottom of the hill. A few weeks 
 later the widow of Wordsworth, 88 years old 
 and blind , was laid by his side. And now, 
 
212 
 
 "farewell to ye all." Farewell ye hoary lands, 
 for we must away to the sea. May God de- 
 liver us from its dark depths. 
 
 Sadly and truly your friend, W. W. IS^ 
 
NO, XXXI. 
 
 Syracuse, K T., Sept. 10, 185$. 
 Yehy Dear Friends : — After several days at 
 Liverpool, v^'^e gathered down to the steamer. 
 Such heaps of baggage, such crowds of peo- 
 ple, such afiecting adieus! Finally the gun 
 fires and we are ofi* for the sea. As we moye 
 away a shout goes up for the *' Hero of Kars.'*' 
 This distinguished gentleman was not only 
 on our steamer but at our table. We have 
 found him a brave, talented, genial, unpre- 
 tending, handsome man. In our long* talks 
 in the saloon and on the quarter deck, we have 
 led him over his old battle fields and around 
 the homes of our Turkish missionaries, whom 
 iie has loved and befriended as a brother. 
 But how was Gen. Williams *'the hero of 
 Kars" when he surrendered that place to the 
 Russians? I have learned from English au- 
 thorities that he there detained a Russian 
 force twenty times the size of his own. That 
 his Turkish officers were against him because 
 he exposed their peculations and reformed 
 their discipline. He implcred help from tb« 
 Crimea, but Pellissier neglected him because 
 the French had no interest in the Asiatic pos- 
 
214 
 
 sessions. Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, at Con- 
 stantinople, left unnoticed fifty-four of his des- 
 patches for help because he was said to be jeal- 
 ous of his rising power. The Sultan was well 
 disposed but incapable. . 
 
 Shut up in this little town, away in the 
 eastern mountains of Armenia, the Russians 
 bought up his spies and intercepted bis pro- 
 visions. He repulsed an immense Russian ar- 
 my with such slaughter that he was five days 
 in burying their dead. And when starvation 
 and the cholera were carrying off a hundred 
 men in a day and there was no hope of relief, 
 he capitulated upon his own terms. Eighteen 
 men fell dead while marching out. When the 
 brave Russian, Gen. Monravieff, saw the roots 
 on which he was living, he exclaimed, ** Gen. 
 you have made yourself a name in history, 
 and posterity will stand amazed at your en- 
 durance, courage and discipline." Through 
 all this the Gen. was the idol of the army. 
 At parting, they cursed the Pasha and kissing 
 the Gen.'s stirrups prayed the blessings of 
 Heaven upon his head. In England he was 
 received with acclamations. The Earl o^ 
 Granville eulogized him in the house of Lords. 
 The house of Commons voted him a life an- 
 nuity of £1000. The Queen conferred on 
 ham a baronetcy with the title of *'Sir Wm. 
 
215 
 
 Eenwick Williams of Kars." [Gen. Williams 
 has since been appointed Commander Gener- 
 al of the troops in Canada.] 
 
 This was the man whom we found as lov- 
 ing and as genial as a child. But we love 
 him especially for his enthusiastic admiration 
 cf our Turkish missionaries. He had been 
 their sworn friend in Turkey, and had taken 
 every public occa>^ion in Ijondon to extol their 
 characters. It was on this account that the 
 clergy of Portland gave him a public recep- 
 tion. 
 
 But I must hasten from the passengers to 
 the passage. It was a rough summer upon 
 the sea. The Telegraph lines were laid with 
 difficulty. Going and coming we encountered 
 severe weather. One night of great anxiety 
 I shall never forget. A few of us had gath- 
 ered in the Dr.'s room on deck. The dark- 
 ness was terrible, the winds were wild, the 
 waves broke in fury over us. The pitching 
 and howling were terrific. Trying to be 
 cheerful amid this awful desclation, we sang 
 *'Iiome, Sweet Home," anl then a sacred 
 piece, and then the tears would stream and 
 the voices would falter, 'till at 11 o'clock we 
 sat there confessedly vanquished. Then after 
 each breaking wave, one at a time was helped 
 below. There a beautiful woman, with dis- 
 
216 
 
 herelled hair, was crying " Capt, shall we go 
 to the bottom?" The winds increased. They 
 howled a tornado. A wave would strike the 
 ship like a fifty ton weight, like an infuriated 
 avalanche, mountain, iceberg. The ship would 
 stand a moment, quiver like an aspen leaf, 
 then roll away, plunging down and down till 
 it seemed as if she would never rioht again. 
 One Wave stove into our cabin. The fur}^ of 
 the storm increased till 4 o'clock. Then one 
 huge wave broke over the main-mast, fifty feet 
 above the deck. The waters rolled over our 
 heads like a mighty rushing river, while I ex- 
 claimed, truly God, *' all thy waves and thy 
 billow^s are gone over me." Oh ! the grand- 
 eur and desolation of that night. It was not 
 so much present danger, but who could tell 
 the end? Here was the presence and power 
 and majesty of God. Man was nothing, the 
 ship was nothing, it was all God. This was 
 the most terrific night at sea, but not the 
 most hazardous. On reaching the banks a 
 fog covered us, a dense, night fog. The 
 steamer w^as groping at full speed. The fog 
 bell tolled, or the steam whist'e screeched 
 like a sea monster performing " the miserere 
 at a burial service" upon the vast deep. Ice- 
 bergs had been reported. They w^ould not 
 heed our noise. We were near Cape Race, 
 
217 
 
 Ships were around us. Here the Arctic came 
 in collision and went down. Here we were 
 to meet the Persia. We afterwards learned 
 tbat, a few days before, the Arabia had here 
 run into the Europa, and that the Persia had 
 gone round to St. Johns, N. F., for the pas- 
 sengers. And when at last the fog bank roll- 
 away and Cape Race light appeared, and Gen. 
 Williams called me up to see " land ahead," 
 and that land was my own country, the 
 thoughts and hopes of home swept over me 
 in such a tide of emotion that, though a 
 thousand miles away, I praised God with 
 thanlcsgivings. 
 
 We had rough weather all the way to Hal- 
 ifax. As it was known that the Hero of Kars 
 was on board, we found on entering the har- 
 bor that the town was illuminated, the 
 wharves were crowded and the noise of the 
 big guns Irom the citadel and the flag ship 
 were reverberating round the hills and over 
 the bay. It was an exhilerating scene. We 
 parted from the General with most earnest 
 prayers for his prosperity. As the Mayor 
 and people bore him away we followed the 
 torch-light procession till he entered a dwel- 
 ling and we saw him no more. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the peacefulness and 
 
 brilliancy of the weather and the sea during 
 28 
 
218 
 
 our passage to Boston. As we sailed up ta 
 the wharf, friends were there to greet us. 
 And in a little time we were sitting down to 
 dinner with a company of loved ones who had 
 gathered to welcome us. 
 
 Andnow we start for home. Home! What 
 meaning in that little word. What exuber- 
 ance of joy and thankfulness at the thought. 
 Ten thousand miles passed in safety, and now 
 we are nearing home. Somebody says that 
 the happiest part of go'ng abroad is the get^ 
 ting home. As we found it so I will sketch 
 the scene, or rather I may as w^ell give you 
 the sketch of another, that appeared last eve- 
 ning in the New York Evr.ngelist : 
 
 *'A Pastor Welcomed. — We noticed last 
 week the return of Rev. W. W, Newell, Pas- 
 tor of the 1st Ward Presbyterian Church in 
 Syracuse, from a summer European tour. Mr. 
 Newell was accompanied abroad by his accom- 
 plished wife and their eldest son and daugh- 
 ter. The members of his congregation, as we 
 learn from the Syracuse Journal, improvised 
 a very pleasant surprise welcome at his return. 
 Over the doorway of his residence, in beauti- 
 ful letters of evergreen, were arranged ^he 
 words " Welcome Home." All unconscious, 
 the travelers were taken into the parlor to 
 meet the family. Directly the doors opened 
 
219 
 
 and to their utter surprise the parish poured 
 in from every part of the filled house. The 
 Pastor and his family were much affected by 
 these marked tokens of esteem, and recipro- 
 cated in the warmest manner every expression 
 of love and confidence. The hours of the 
 evening were passed in pleasant conversation, 
 in singing and in partaking of refreshments 
 which had been bountifully supplied by the 
 visitors. The organist of Mr. NewelFs church 
 played some original and appropriate airs. — 
 And when the adieus of the evening were said 
 and the house was still, a serenade of sweet, 
 singers struck the song *Home again from a 
 foreign shore,' and thus enlivened the moon- 
 lit hours and sent the fatigued travelers to the 
 refreshment of needed rest and pleasant 
 dreams." 
 
 Very truly your friend, W, W. N. 
 
HOW TO TRAVEL ABROAD. 
 
 Every expectant Tourist is in doubt about 
 his preparation for the journey. At the de- 
 sire of several friends, I have prepared a brief 
 paper expressly for his benefit. One of the 
 earliest things to be decided upon is 
 
 THE ROUTE. 
 
 After much study and some experience, I 
 have come to the settled conviction that, for 
 a lirrited summer tour, the route described in 
 these sketches is preferable to all others. I 
 will propose one deviation. From Cologne 
 you may make an excursion of ten days, vis- 
 iting Leipzic, Dresden, Berlin, Hamburg, and 
 thus on to Amsterdam. 
 
 THE AMOUNT OF TIME. 
 
 The flicilities for traveling upon the Conti- 
 nent are so great at present, that this tour, if 
 industriously pursued, may be made in five 
 months. This is the least moment of time 
 that should be allowed. 
 
 THE SEASON OF THE YEAR. 
 
 If this tour is made in the summer, the 
 middle of April is the time for leaving Amer- 
 ica. This is an essential point. This brings 
 you to London by the first week in May, in 
 
221 
 
 time for the Parliament, the Queen, and the 
 religious Anniversaries. It brings jou to 
 Rome the first week in June, in time for one 
 of her grandest festivals, the *' Corpus Chris^ 
 ti day," and if the eruption of Vesuvius shall 
 prove an anniversary incident^ you will be in 
 season for that But the essential points are the 
 heat and malaria of Southern Italy. No man 
 visits New Orleans for pleasure in August. 
 Thousands are too late for Italy. After the 
 expense and trouble of crossing the Atlantic 
 they return with life-long regrets that the 
 country most wonderful for beauty and mon- 
 uments is forever unseen. AVhat foreign trav- 
 eler would be satisfied without seeing Vesu- 
 vius and Pompeii, Naples and Rome, Florence 
 and Venice? Others endanger their comfort 
 and their lives through ignorance. A young 
 friend of mine, with plenty of money and 
 time, was found sweltering over the Pontine 
 Marshes, in August, when Rome was desert- 
 ed and one-third of the harvesters were dying 
 in the field. If Naples is reached by the 
 20th of May you may work your way north 
 with comfort and pleasure. 
 
 EXPENSES. 
 
 The necessary traveling expenses of this tour 
 do not exceed $800. With this sum one will 
 sailin first class steamers, and, except in Ger- 
 
222 
 
 many, he will travel in first class cars, and he 
 will stop at first class hotels. In London we 
 were directed to a private house for travelers, 
 at No. 12 C/Ccil street, Strand. We found the 
 house central, quiet, moderate in its charges, 
 and beautifully located on the banks of the 
 Thames. Such houses are numerous. In 
 Paris our mea's were taken at the Restaurant- 
 Rooms everywhere are a separate charge. Al- 
 ways see and bargain for t! k: n before your 
 carriage is dismissed, and you avoid all impo- 
 sition and discontent. Remunerate the small- 
 est service done you. Learn from travelers 
 and Guide Books what ought to be paid, for 
 extra services, and when a previous bargain 
 cannot be made pay what you ought and pass 
 on. Always have small coin on hand for the 
 crippled and the blind. 
 
 THE WAY TO ECONOMIZE. 
 
 Some persons reduce their expenses by sail- 
 ing in packets. I should much prefer the 
 fore cabin of a steamer, as it lessens the time 
 at sea, and enables you to calculate with some 
 degree of confidence. A young man, or a 
 student, may save more than one-third of the 
 $800. lie may take the fore cabin of the 
 ocean and Mediterranean steamers. He may 
 ride in the third or fourth class cars. He may 
 occupy the highest rooins at th^ hotels. He 
 
fiiay erery where take his meals at the restau- 
 rant. He may get his own passport vise 
 instead of having it done from his hotel. He 
 may uait upon himself. 
 
 THE ABRANGKMENT OF TUNDS, 
 
 If deposited in a house in one of our At- 
 lantic cities, connected, for example, with the 
 house of Baring & Brothers, London, that 
 firm on his arrival will give him a letter of 
 Credit to a banker in every prominent city in 
 Europe. Napoleons are a gold coin that will 
 pass everywhere upon the co n linen t. No oth- 
 er money should be carried from one kingdom 
 to another. To provide fur sickness, accident 
 or purchases, each traveler should deposit 
 $1000. If not used it will draw interest. 
 
 PASSPORTS. 
 
 Passports are obtained, without expense, 
 from our Secretary of State at Washington. 
 Application may be made directly to him or 
 to our Representative in Congress, But one 
 passport is needed for a whole family. In the 
 application an exact statement must be made 
 in reference to your age and height, the size 
 of your forehead, nose, mouth, and chin, the 
 color of your eyes and hair, and the number 
 of the family by whom you are attended.— 
 This passport should be vise at London, by 
 the Ambassadors of the U* S., France, Prus- 
 
224 
 
 sia, and Austria, at Paris, by the Ambassa-^ 
 dors of Naples, Sardinia, Tuscany and the 
 Papal States. 1 his precious document is al- 
 ways needed. It shculd be placed in a pock- 
 et made for the purpose inside the vest. — 
 Without money you are a beggar but without' 
 the passport you are a vagabond. 
 
 BAGGAGE. 
 
 Warm clothing and Scotch blankets ?r© 
 needed at sea. Leave most of your luggage 
 in London. There or here select a common 
 sized, round topped, leather trunk. AVashing 
 can be done any where in one day. Baggage 
 is constantly weighed and examined and much 
 of it proves a great expense and a terrible an- 
 noyance. In the round top of the trunk hun- 
 dreds of engravings and small paintings even, 
 may be carried without injury. 
 
 Room should be left for the small articles 
 you will wish to purchase. 
 
 CUSTOM HOUSES. 
 
 With the exception of cigars, purchase 
 what you please for your own use. Put the 
 most suspicious things in sight, be always 
 ready with your key and you will escape an- 
 noyance. 
 
 LANGUAGES. 
 
 To speak the language of each country is 
 a great saving and a great pleasure. You can 
 
225 
 
 make your way however with a few words of 
 German and Italian and a good knowledge of 
 French. What you know must not be in 
 books but at your tongue's end. At the best 
 hotels there are French or English servants 
 and guides. ^ 
 
 LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION 
 
 are not needed to American Ambassadors and 
 Consuls. A few such letters to foreigners of 
 distinction may prove sources of great pleas- 
 ure. But few will be used, as their delivery 
 consumes much time. 
 
 LETTERS PROM HOME. 
 
 Nothing is more depressing than the failure 
 of expected letters from home. TV e left in 
 the hands of our correspondents the days of 
 the month when we expected to reach certain 
 cities. They directed to that city one month 
 previous to date, and we always had letters. 
 Write legibly and put upon each letter "Poste 
 restante." 
 
 These suggestions may seem like *' little 
 nothings," but for the want of them I have 
 seen men driven to temporary phrenzy and 
 fever, to madness and despair. 
 
 And now, with the hope that these imper- 
 fect sketches have not proved entirely barren 
 29 
 
226 
 
 of interest to my friends, and with the pray- 
 er that the end of all our varied travels may 
 be the same bright home in Heaven, I bid you 
 
 a last loving farewell. 
 
 W. W, NEWELL 
 
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