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Mrs. Warfield's New Novel. 
 
 MIRIAM MONFORT. 
 
 by the author of " TnE HOUSEHOLD OF BOUVERIE." 
 One \2mo Volume. Price, $2.00. 
 
 Vi'he N. Y. Evening Post says of "Miriam Monfort : " "Mrs. Warfield's 
 new novel has freshness, and is so far removed from mediocrity as to entitle 
 it to lospectful comment. Her fiction calls for study. Her perception is deep 
 and a ia-'tic, as respects both the dramatic side of life and the beautiful. It 
 is not b'rictly nature, in the general sense, that forms the basis of her descrip- 
 tions. Sl:e finds something deeper and more mystic than nature in the sense 
 in which the term is usually used by critics, in the answer of the soul to life 
 — in the strange, weird, and lonesome music (though now and then broken by 
 discords) of the still small voices with which human nature replies to the 
 questions that sorely vex her. She has the analytic capacity in the field of 
 psychology, which enables her to trace phenomena in a story without argu- 
 ing about them, and to exhibit the dramatic side of them without stopping to 
 explain the reasons for it. In a word, her hand is as sure as that of a mas- 
 ter, and if there were more such novels as this simple semi-biographical story 
 of Miriam Monfort, it would not be necessary so often to put the question, 
 ' Is the art of fiction extinct ? ' " 
 
 The Cincinnati Daily Gazette says : " ' Miriam Monfort,' which now lies 
 before us, is less sensational in incident than its predecessor, though it does 
 not lack stirring events — an experience on a burning ship, for example. Its 
 interest lies in the intensity which marks all the characters good and bad. 
 The plot turns on the treachery of a pretended lover, and the author seems 
 to have experienced every emotion of love and hate, jealousy and fear, that 
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 beautiful but much-persecuted Miriam with breathless interest." 
 
 The All Bay City Item says : " It is a work of extraordinary merit. The 
 story is charmingly told by the heroine. It is admirable and original in plot, 
 varied in incident, and intensely absorbing in interest; besides, throughout 
 the volume, there is an exquisite combination of sensibility, pride, and loveli- 
 ness, which will hold the work in high estimation. We make a quotation from 
 the book that suits the critic exactly. ' It is splendid ; it is a dream, more 
 vivid than life itself; it is like drinking champagne, smelling tuberoses, in- 
 haling laughing-gas, going to the opera, all at one time.' We recommend 
 this to our young lady friends as a most thoughtfully and delightfully written 
 novel." 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 
 
 549 k 551 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
 
NOW READY, A NEW EDITION OF 
 
 THE HOUSEHOLD OF BOUVERIE. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " MIRIAM MONFORT." 
 
 1 vol., 12mo. Price, $2.00. 
 
 From Gail Hamilton, author of " Gala Days," etc. 
 
 " ' The Household of Bouvcrie ' is one of those nuisances of books that pluck 
 out all your teeth, and then dare you to bite them. Your interest is awakened 
 in the first chapter, and you are whirled through in a lightning-express train that 
 leaves yon no opportunity to look at the little details of wood, and lawn, and 
 river. You notice two or three little peculiarities of style— one or two ' bits ' of 
 painting— and then you pull on your seven-leagued boots, and away you go." 
 
 From John G. Saxe, the Poet. 
 
 " It is a strange romance, and will bother the critics not a little. The interest 
 of the book is undeniable, and is wonderfully sustained to the end of the story. 
 I think it exhibits far more power than any lady-novel of recent date, and it cer- 
 tainly has the rare merit of entire originality.'' 
 
 From Marion Harland, author of "Alone," " Hidden Path," etc. 
 
 "As to Mrs. Warfield's wonderful book, I have read it twice— the second time 
 more carefully than the first— and I nse the term ' wonderful ' because it best ex- 
 presses the feeling uppermost in my mind, both while reading and thinking it 
 over. As a piece of Imaginative writing, I have seen nothing to equal it since 
 the days of Edgar A. Poc, and I doubt whether he could have sustained himself 
 and reader through a book of half the size of the 'Household of Bouverie.' I was 
 literally hurried through it by my intense sympathy, my devouring enriosity— it 
 was more than interest. I read everywhere— between the courses of the hotel- 
 table, on the boat, in the cars— until I had swallowed the last line. This is no 
 common occurrence with a veteran romance-reader like myself." 
 
 From George Ripley's Review of " The Household of Bovverii ," 
 in Harper's Magazine, November, 18C0. 
 
 "Everywhere betraying a daring boldness of conception, singular fertility of 
 illustration, and a combined beauty and vigor of expression, which it would bo 
 difficult to match in any recent works of fiction. In these days, when the most 
 milk-and-watery platitudes are so often welcomed as sibylline inspirations, it is 
 somewhat refreshing to meet with a female novel-writer who displays the un- 
 mistakable fire of genius, however terrific its brightness." 
 
 New York : D. APPLETON & CO. 
 
THE DESCENT OF MAN. 
 
 DARWIN. 
 
 The Descent of Man, 
 
 AND SELECTION IN RELATION TO SEX. By Charles Dar. 
 win, M. A., F. R. S., etc. With Illustrations. 2 vols., 12mo. Cloth. 
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 The Principles of Biology. 
 
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 Marts Place in Nature, 
 
 By Thomas H. Huxley, LL.D., F.R. S 1 vol., 12mo. Cloth, 
 
 Price, $1.25. 
 
 On the Origin of Species. 
 
 By TnoxiAsH. Huxley, LL.D..F.R.S. 1vol., 12mo. Cloth. l*rice,$l. 
 
 G-^JL.TOISr. 
 Hereditary Genius: 
 
 An Inquiry into its Laws and Consequences. By Francl) Galtoh 
 New revised edition. 12mo. Cloth. Price, $2.00. 
 
 FIGUIKR. 
 Primitive Man. 
 
 Illustrated with thirty Scenes of Primitive Life, and 233 Figures of 
 Objects belonging to Prehistoric Ages. By Louis Figuier, author 
 of " The World before the Deluge," " The Ocean World," etc. 1 
 vol., 8vo. Cloth. Price, $4.00. 
 
 LUBBOCK. 
 Origin of Civilization, 
 
 AND THE PRIMITIVE CONDITION OF MAN. By Sir Joh» 
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AP 
 
 TO 
 
 IPAHT APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK 
 
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 AMERICAN TRAVEL. ^ 
 
 iSTERN TOUR. 
 Section East of 
 
 liasj 
 
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Is 
 
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APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK 
 
 AMERICAN TRAVEL. 
 
 <^i : 4+. 
 
 EMBRACING 
 
 :ghteen through routes to the west and far west, 
 tours of the great lakes and rivers, 
 
 LL LOCAL ROUTES OF THE STATES OF OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, 
 IOWA, MICHIGAN, WISCONSIN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, KANSAS, 
 NEBRASKA, COLORADO, NEVADA, CALIFORNIA, AND ORE- 
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 TANA, IDAHO, UTAH, WASHINGTON, AND ALASKA. 
 
 BEING A COMPLETE GUIDE TO 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, YOSEMITE VALLEY, SIERRA NEVADA, THE 
 
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 CITIES, TOWNS, RIVERS, LAKES, WATER-FALLS, MOUNTAINS, HUNTING AND FISHING 
 
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 LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON. 
 
 1873. 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 
 
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 Exteeed, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S73, by D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 
TO THE TRAVELLEE. 
 
 This is a companion-volume to the Haxd-Book of Travel, Northern 
 and Eastern Tour, and the Hand-Book of Travel, Southern Tour. Each 
 of the three parts of the work is a separate and complete volume, and all 
 of them together form a general guide to every portion of the United 
 States. 
 
 The plan of this book is very simple, and will be readily understood by 
 the aid of the Table of Contents and the Index. The four great "Trunk 
 Lines,' 1 from the Atlantic seaboard to the Mississippi, which connect with 
 the Union Pacific Bailway at Council Bluffs and Omaha, are the New York 
 Central & Hudson Biver Bailway, the New York & Erie Bailway, the 
 Pennsylvania Central Bailway, and the Baltimore & Ohio Bailway. These, 
 with their branches, all described in this volume, connect by rail with 
 almost every city, town, and village in the United States. Each line has 
 its advantages, and the " intelligent traveller," before buying his ticket, will 
 choose the one which will enable him, without annoyance or unnecessary 
 expense, to visit, en route, such cities, towns, and localities, as he may desire. 
 
 Passengers from Boston and the Eastern States can travel to the Pacific 
 by "all rail," via Albany or New York, or by steamer on Long Island 
 Sound. New York travellers, who wish to visit Niagara and the Suspen- 
 sion Bridge, can do so by way of the New York Central, or New York & 
 Erie trunk lines. The former will take him through Central New York, 
 via Albany, Bochester, and Buffalo, while the latter traverses the southern 
 portion of the State, via Binghamton, Corning, and Buffalo. From New 
 Jersey and Philadelphia, the traveller to the West will take the Pennsyl- 
 vania Central line, and from Baltimore and Washington he will take one 
 of the Baltimore & Ohio Bailway routes. From Cincinnati, Chicago, and 
 St. Louis, there are numerous routes through to Omaha, the eastern ter- 
 minus of the Union Pacific Bailway. 
 
 The cost of travelling by rail in the Western States is about three cents 
 per mile. Children under twelve years of age are generally charged for at 
 
iv TO THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 half price, and those under five years of age are passed free. Sleeping-cars 
 are run on all through-trains, and on most of the lines may ho engaged in 
 advance for the entire distance from New York to San Francisco at the 
 usual charges. From $2 to $3 per day (24 hours) is generally charged for 
 the use of sleeping-cars. The average speed on express trains is ahout 
 thirty miles an hour. Travel on steainhoats is somewhat less expensive, 
 and less expeditious than hy rail. 
 
 The charge, at first-class hotels throughout the United States, is from 
 $4 to $4.50 per day. Board by the week is generally to be had at a lower 
 price. The cost of meals while travelling may be estimated at from $2 to 
 $3 per day. The best hotels in the various cities and towns are designated 
 in their proper places in the body of the Guide. 
 
 It is the custom in America to deliver baggage to a person known as 
 the baggage-master, who will give in return a " check" for every piece, on 
 presentation of which the baggage is delivered. Baggage may be checked 
 over long routes in this way, and the traveller, no matter how many times 
 ho changes cars or vehicles, has no concern about his trunks. The compa- 
 nies are responsible if the baggage should be injured or lost, the check 
 being evidence of delivery into their hands. The traveller, arriving at 
 the station, should first procure his ticket at the ticket-office, and then, 
 proceeding to the baggage-car, or proper station of the baggage-master, 
 have his trunks checked. The baggage-master usually requires the travel- 
 ler to exhibit his ticket before he will check the trunks. Arriving at his 
 destination, the check may be handed to the hotel-porter, always in wait- 
 ing, who will procure the various articles, and have them sent to the hotel. 
 The traveller in the United States, by the system now in vogue, is almost 
 entirely relieved from any care or concern about his luggage. 
 
 It is not necessary to fee porters and waiters in the States, as it is in 
 Europe, but the practice has some slight and irregular observance. The 
 traveller is free to do as he pleases in the matter. Nothing of the kind is 
 ever demanded. In all large cities there are coaches or omnibuses at the 
 station on the arrival of every train, which connect directly with the prin- 
 cipal hotels. A small charge is made for this conveyance, which, in somo 
 cases, is paid to the omnibus porter, and in others is regularly charged to 
 the traveller in the hotel bill. 
 
 Travellers from abroad will understand that the present currency in 
 the United States, with the exception of California, is exclusively bank- 
 notes. These arc issues of the national Treasury, commonly known as 
 grecn-baclcs, and the notes of the national banks. They are taken every- 
 where without hesitation, and servo every practical purpose of coin. All 
 prices are understood to be in this currency, which is at a discount for 
 
TO TIIE TRAVELLER. v 
 
 gold ; or, as the phrase is here, gold is at a premium— now (November, 
 1873), of about ten per cent. In the British Provinces, the circulating 
 medium is coin, or the notes of the local banks, which are at par. In Cali- 
 fornia, gold and silver are generally used, though bank-notes are coming 
 into circulation. 
 
 As regards outfit, it is important for the traveller that he should be 
 dressed with sufficient warmtb. Our climate is very changeable, and the 
 traveller had better suffer at noonday under too much clotbing, than ex- 
 pose himself at night, in storms, or to sudden changes of the atmosphere, 
 with too little. One should wear woollen under-clothing, and always have 
 a shawl or extra wrapper of some kind. The traveller's own judgment 
 will suggest to him that strong suits of gray or brown are more convenient 
 and suitable than darker colors. 
 
 Full tables of distances accompany the description of each route in this 
 volume, but, for hasty reference, the following summary will be useful to 
 the traveller : 
 
 To Cincinnati 
 From New York 
 
 " Boston 
 
 " Philadelphia 
 
 " Baltimore 
 
 To St. Louis. 
 From New York 
 
 " Boston 
 
 " Philadelphia 
 
 " Baltimore 
 
 To Chicago. 
 From New York 
 
 " Baltimore 
 
 " Boston 
 
 " Philadelphia 
 
 To Omalia. 
 
 From New York 
 
 " Boston 
 
 " Philadelphia. . . . 
 
 " Washington 
 
 " Baltimore 
 
 " St. Louis 
 
 " Chicago 
 
 861 miles. 
 75S " 
 992 " 
 667 " 
 591 " 
 
 1,065 mile6. 
 1,098 " 
 1,834 " 
 1,003 " 
 973 " 
 
 961 
 958 
 899 
 
 1.020 
 823 
 
 1,393 i 
 1,518 
 1,317 
 1,342 
 1,292 
 800 
 494 
 
 miles. 
 
 Eric Railway, 
 
 " Pan-handle" Route. 
 
 Pennsylvania Central Railway. 
 " Tan-handle " Route. 
 
 New York Central & Hudson River Railway. 
 
 Erie and Lake-Shore & Michigan Southern Railways. 
 
 Allentown Route. 
 
 To San Francisco. 
 From Omaha 1,914 miles. 
 
 In the preparation of this volume, the design has been to make it a 
 complete guide to the Western country; but, apart from the value it may 
 possess to the traveller, it is hoped that it will be found useful as a general 
 gazetteer of the country it purports to cover. 
 
yj TO THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 Much care Las been taken to make the IIand-Book accurate and com- 
 plete in every particular, and the present edition has been carefully revised 
 for the autumn of 1873, every part of the book being corrected and brought 
 up to date. Notwithstanding this, however, so great is the complexity of 
 the task, some errors will probably be found in it, and some omissions. It 
 is hoped that the detector of these will call them to the attention of the 
 Editor, in order that he may correct them in future editions. Communi- 
 cations should bo addressed to the Editor of Appletons' Hand- Book of 
 Travel, care of D. Appleton & Co., New York. 
 
 %* In addition to the Hand-Book of Travel, the traveller will need a 
 copy of Appletons' Bailway Guide, published semi-monthly, with time- 
 tables corrected to date, price twenty-five cents. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 PASS 
 
 To the Traveller iii 
 
 GRAND THROUGH-ROUTES TO THE WEST. 
 
 I. — New York to Chicago via New York Central & Hudson River Rail- 
 way, and Great Western and Michigan Central Railways 1 
 
 II. — New York to Chicago, via Erie and Lake Shore & Michigan Southern 
 
 Railways 15 
 
 III. — New York to Chicago, via Allentown Line, which includes the Central 
 Railway of New Jersey, Lebanon Valley, Pennsylvania Central, and 
 
 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago Railways 24 
 
 IV. — New York to Chicago, via Pan-Handle Route, which includes the New 
 Jersey Railway to Philadelphia, the Pennsylvania Central, and the 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati k St. Louis Railway, which includes the Colum- 
 bus, Chicago & Indiana Central Railways 25 
 
 V. — New York to Cincinnati, via Erie Railway 29 
 
 VI. — New York to Cincinnati, via Pan-Handle Route (identical with Route 
 
 IV. as far as Columbus, 0. (See page 25) 40 
 
 VII. — New York to St. Louis, via Pennsylvania Central and connecting Rail- 
 ways, known as the Pan-Handle Route 41 
 
 VIII. — New York to St. Louis, via Route II. to Cleveland, and thence via 
 Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis, and Indianapolis & 
 
 St. Louis Railways 57 
 
 IX. — New York to St. Louis, via Pan-Handle Route, which is Route VI. to 
 
 Cincinnati ; thence via Ohio & Mississippi Railway 59 
 
 X. — Baltimore to St. Louis, via Baltimore & Ohio, Little Miami, and Ohio 
 
 & Mississippi Railways 60 
 
 XI. — Baltimore to St. Louis, via Baltimore & Ohio, Marietta & Cincinnati, 
 
 and Ohio & Mississippi Railways TO 
 
 XII. — New York to Omaha, via Chicago & Northwestern Railway 72 
 
 XIII. — New York to Omaha, via any Route to Chicago, thence by Chicago, 
 
 Rock Island & Pacific Railway 75 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 pag a 
 
 XIV. — Chicago to Omaha, via Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, and Burlington 
 
 & Missouri River Railways 78 
 
 XV. — New York to Omaha, via Logansport, Peoria, and Keokuk. Via 
 Route II. to Toledo ; Route XII. to Logansport and Pittsburg, 
 Cincinnati & St. Louis ; Toledo, Peoria & Warsaw ; Des Moines Val- 
 ley and Iowa Division of Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railways. 80 
 XVI. — New York to Omaha, via Route II. to Toledo, 0., thence via Toledo, 
 "Wabash & Western, Hannibal & St. Joseph, and Kansas City, St. 
 
 Joseph & Council Bluffs Railways 82 
 
 XVII. — St. Louis to Denver and Cheyenne, via Pacific Railway of Missouri, 
 
 Kansas Pacific & Denver Pacific Railways 86 
 
 SVIIT. — Omaha to San Francisco, via Union Pacific, Central Pacific, and 
 Western Pacific Railways, including Excursions to the Sweetwater 
 Mining Region of Wyoming; and to Salt Lake City, via Utah Cen- 
 tral Railway 94 
 
 TOURS OF THE GREAT LAKES AND RIVERS. 
 
 I. — New York to St. Louis, via Niagara Palls, Lake Erie, Detroit River, 
 Lake St. Clair, River St. Clair, Lake Huron, River St. Mary, Lake 
 Superior, and Mississippi Railway and Mississippi River, including 
 Excursions to Mackinaw Islands and Strait, the " Pictured Rocks," 
 the North Shore of Lake Superior, and Duluth, the Eastern Termi- 
 nus of the Northern Pacific Railway 136 
 
 II. — Pittsburg, Pa., to St. Louis, Mo., via Ohio and Mississippi Rivers 163 
 
 III. — St. Louis to the " Gates of the Rocky Mountains," via Missouri River. 173 
 
 STATES AND TERRITORIES— LOCAL ROUTES. 
 
 OHIO. — Cincinnati to Toledo, 181 ; Cincinnati to Sandusky, 182 ; Cincinnati to 
 Zanesvillc, 182 ; Cleveland to Pittsburg, Pa., 183 ; Cleveland to Cincinnati, 
 183 ; Sandusky to Newark, 184 ; Columbus to Athens, 1S4 179 
 
 INDIANA. — Cincinnati to Chicago, 186-188; Cincinnati to Indianapolis, 188; 
 Cincinnati, 0., to Lafayette, Ind., 188; Madison to Chicago, 111., 189; 
 Louisville, Ky., to Chicago, 111., 190; Indianapolis to Vincennes, 191; 
 Indianapolis to Danville, 111., 191 ; Evansvillc to Terre naute and Rock- 
 ville, 192 185 
 
 ILLINOIS.— Chicago to Cairo, 194 ; Chicago to St. Louis, 196 ; Chicago to 
 Quincy, 197; Chicago to Dunleith, 111., and Dubuque, Io., 198; Chicago 
 to Madison, Wis., 198 ; Chicago to Kenosha, Wis., 199 ; Kenosha, Wis., to 
 Rockford, 111., 200 ; Dunleith to Cairo 200 ; Bloomington to Alton, 200 ; 
 
CONTENTS. ix 
 
 pag a 
 Peoria to Alton, 201 ; Peoria to Warsaw, 201 ; Danville to Peoria, 201 ; 
 
 Sterling to St. Louis, Mo., 201 ; Springfield to Pana, 202 ; East St. Louis 
 
 to Mount Vernon, 202 ; St Louis to Cairo, 202 192 
 
 IOWA. — Keokuk to Mona, 204 ; Dubuque to Sioux City, 205 ; Dubuque to Cedar 
 Rapids, 205 ; Des Moines to Fort Dodge, 205 ; Wilton to Ashland, 205 ; 
 Council Bluffs to Sioux City, 206 ; Calmar to Algona, 200 ; McGregor to 
 Austin, Minn., 206 202 
 
 MICHIGAN.— Lake Michigan, 207 ; Detroit to Grand Haven, 208 ; Detroit to 
 Adrian, 209 ; Detroit to Port Huron, 209 ; Detroit to Bay City, 209 ; We- 
 nona, Mich., to Fort Wayne, Ind., 210; Lansing to Greenville, 210 ; Lan- 
 sing to Battle Creek and Climax, 211 ; Jackson to Whitehall, 211 ; White 
 Pigeon to Grand Rapids, 211 ; Allegan to Muskegon, 212 ; Kalamazoo to 
 South Haven, 212 ; Toledo, 0., to Jackson, Mich., 212 ; Detroit to Romeo, 
 212; New Buffalo to Breedsville, 212 206 
 
 WISCONSIN.— Chicago, 111., to Milwaukee, 214 ; Milwaukee to Prairie du Chien, 
 216; Milwaukee to La Crosse and Hudson, 217; Milwaukee to Madison, 
 217; Milwaukee to Portage City, 217; Milwaukee to Berlin and Winne- 
 conne, 218 ; Chicago, 111., to Marquette, Mich., 218 ; Racine, Wis., to Rock 
 Island, III, 220; Madison, Wis., to Chicago, 111., 221; Sheboygan to Fond 
 duLac, 221 212 
 
 MINNESOTA.— The Lakes, 222 ; Milwaukee, Wis., to St. Paul, 223 ; La Crosse 
 to Winnebago, 224 ; Winona to St. Peter, 224 ; St. Paul to St. James, 
 224 ; St. Paul to Breckenridge, 224 ; Falls of St. Anthony, 225 ; St. Paul 
 to Sauk Rapids, Crow Wing, and the Red River, 226 ; St. Paul to Red 
 Wing, 227 ; St. Paul to St. Croix, Wis., 227 221 
 
 MISSOURI.— Big Trees, 228 ; St. Louis to Kansas City, 229 ; St. Louis to Ottum- 
 wa, Io., 230 ; St. Louis to Belmont, 230 ; St. Louis to Neosho, 230 ; Lex- 
 ington to St. Joseph, 230 ; Cameron to Kansas City, 231 ; St. Joseph to 
 Hopkins, 231 ; Sedalia, Mo., to Fort Scott, Kas., 231 227 
 
 KANSAS. — Kansas City to Baxter Springs, 234 ; Kansas City to Atchison and 
 Waterville, 235 ; Leavenworth to Tioga, 235 ; Topeka to Emporia, 236 ; 
 Junction to Chetopa, 236 ; Kansas City to Ottawa, 237 232 
 
 NEBRASKA. — Omaha to Lincoln, 239 ; Rulo to Pawnee City, 239 ; Fremont to 
 Blair, 239 ; Nebraska City, 239 ; Plattsmouth, Falls City, Beatrice City, 
 and Ashland, 240 237 
 
 DAKOTA.— Vermilion, 241 240 
 
 COLORADO. — Excursions to the Mining Districts, 242 ; the Great Natural Parks, 
 
 243 ; Tours to the Rocky Mountains, 244 241 
 
 WYOMING.— Evanston, 248 246 
 
 MONTANA.— The Scenery of the Yellowstone River, 248 ; Snake or Shoshone 
 
 River, 251 ; Bannack, Virginia City, Helena, 252 248 
 
 IDAHO.— Boisee City, 253 ; the Great Shoshone Falls, 253 ; Lewiston, Idaho 
 
 City, 254 252 
 
x CONTENTS. 
 
 PASI 
 
 UTAH. — Great Salt Lake Valley, 254 ; Salt Mountain, Warm Springs, Hot 
 Springs, St. George, 255 ; The New Silver Mining Districts, 225 ; East 
 Canon City, 25C ; Mormonism and the Mormons, 257 254 
 
 NEVADA. — Pyramid Lake, 261 ; the Silver Mining Districts, with Virginia, Aus- 
 tin, Hamilton, and Treasure Cities ; 261-263 ; Idlewild Cave, 264 260 
 
 CALIFORNIA. — San Francisco to Lake Tahoe and DonnerLake, 267 ; San Fran- 
 cisco to White Sulphur Springs, Calistoga Springs, the Petrified Forest, 
 the Great Geysers, and Skagg's Springs, 268 ; San Francisco to Skagg's 
 Springs and the Great Geysers, 272 ; San Francisco to the Clear Lake 
 Hunting Grounds, 274 ; San Francisco to San Rafael and Mount Tamtflpais. 
 275 ; San Francisco to Mount Diablo, 275 ; San Francisco to Warm 
 Springs, Alameda County, 576 ; San Francisco to San Jose, the Santa 
 Clara Valley, Almaden Quicksilver Mines, Gilroy, and Los Angeles, 276 ; 
 Los Angeles to San Diego, 281 ; Los Angeles to San Bernardino, 2S1 ; San 
 Francisco to Congress Springs, Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Pescadero, 
 282 ; Sacramento to Marysville, Chico, Oregon City, and Portland (by Rail 
 and Stage), 283 ; Sacramento to Marysville (by River Steamer), 286 ; San 
 Francisco up the Coast to Portland, Ogn., Puget Sound, Washington Terri- 
 tory, and British Columbia, 287 ; San Francisco to the Big Trees of Cala- 
 veras, and to the Natural Caves and Bridges, 289 ; Routes to the Yosemite 
 Valley and the Big Trees of Mariposa, Tuolumne, and Calaveras, 290 ; 
 Visit to the High Sierras, and Tour around the Yosemite Valley, 301 264 
 
 OREGON. — Columbia River and Willamette River Routes, Cascades, etc., 304. . 303 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY.— Trip up Puget Sound into British Columbia, 
 
 307 307 
 
 ALASKA.— Trip from Victoria, Vancouver's Island, to Sitka, Alaska ; Descrip- 
 tion of Sitka 308 
 
 APPENDIX 311 
 
 LIST OF MAPS. 
 
 Map of Slates east of the Missouri River face title-page 
 
 " Chicago V 
 
 " Cincinnati 31 
 
 " St. Louis 4»7 
 
 " San Francisco 121 
 
 " States and Territories west of the Missouri River - 227 
 
 «• Stage and Rail Routes to the Yosemite Valley and Big Trees of California 29 1 
 
 " The Yosemite Valley - ,JG 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 GRAND THROUGH-ROUTES TO THE WEST. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO. 
 
 Via New York Central <£• Hud son River Rail- 
 way, and Great Western and Michigan Cen- 
 tral Railways. (I'ime, 86 hrs. — Fare, $22.) 
 
 Principal Stations between New 
 York City and Detroit, Michigan. — 
 Yonkers, 15 miles; Tarrytown, 26; Sing 
 Sing, 32 ; Peekskill, 42 ; Garrison's 
 (West Point), 50 ; Fishkill, 59 ; Pough- 
 keepsie, 73; Hudson, 115; Albany, 144; 
 Schenectady, 161 ; St. Joknsville, 208 ; 
 Little Falls,"21 8; Utica, 239 ; Rome, 254; 
 Syracuse, 292 ; Rochester, 373 ; Lock- 
 port, 429 ; Suspension Bridge, 448 ; St. 
 Catharines, Canada, 459 ; Hamilton, 480 ; 
 Paris, 520 ; Woodstock, 539 ; London, 
 567 ; Windsor, 678. 
 
 [Note. — A detailed description of as 
 much of this route as lies between New 
 York and Detroit has been given in 
 Appletons' Hand-Book op American 
 Travel — Northern and Eastern Tour, 
 to which we refer the tourist who may 
 desire particular information in regard 
 to watering-places, cities, summer resorts, 
 etc. The following sketch is merely a 
 general outline of the route between New 
 York and Detroit.] 
 
 If time is not a matter of importance 
 to the tourist, the trip up the Hudson 
 should be made in one of the steamers 
 of the Day line, from which both sides 
 of the river can be seen, whereas, from 
 the cars, only the western bank is visible. 
 1 
 
 The lower Hudson, emptying into the Bay 
 of New York, is like a huge arm of the 
 sea, and, as we ascend, preserves its no- 
 ble width, occasionally expanding into 
 lakes, until the Highlands are reached. 
 Leaving the city behind us, for the first 
 twenty miles the Palisades rise like a ver- 
 tical wall on the west, while on the east 
 hill rises above hill, dotted with palatial 
 mansions. Along the water's edge are 
 strung a succession of beautiful villages, 
 filled with the suburban houses of New- 
 York business men. At the end of the 
 Palisades the first expansion of the river 
 known as Tappan Bay occurs, the width 
 being over four miles and the length 
 about twelve. Tarrytown, immortalized 
 by Washington Irving, and Sing Sing, the 
 seat of one of the State Prisons, are upon 
 its eastern border, while upon the west 
 stands Piermont, the original terminus 
 of the Erie Railway. Croton Point di- 
 vides this bay from Haverstraw Bay, at 
 the upper end of which stands Peekskill 
 at the gate to the "Highlands," as the 
 mountains through which the river forces 
 its way are called. Rising on either side 
 their precipitous acclivities at places 
 spring from the very water's edge ; at 
 others a more gentle ascent permits the 
 building of a village or a city, every suc- 
 cessive street being higher and higher, 
 and every house being in plain view. In 
 places the mountains approach so near as 
 to reduce the river to a contracted chan- 
 nel and then they recede so as to allow 
 the water to expand into a lake, and this 
 1 
 
Principal Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Detroit. 
 
 very peculiarity constitutes one of the 
 principal charms of the Highland region. 
 As we go northward we pass in succession 
 the beautiful and prosperous cities of 
 Peekskill, Fishkill, Newburg, Pough- 
 keepsie, and Hudson ; we catch a beauti- 
 ful view of the United States Military 
 Academy at West Point, and finally, leav- 
 ing all behind us, pass through a more 
 level country and arrive at Albany, where 
 we exchange the steamer for the cars of 
 the New York Central Railway. 
 
 From Albany to Suspension Bridge the 
 road passes through the richest and most 
 densely populated portions of the State, 
 and the scenery in the main is of a pas- 
 toral character, there being no mountains 
 to give an appearance of grandeur to the 
 scene, still there is much that is beauti- 
 ful in the extreme. The famous valley 
 of the Mohawk is first traversed. The 
 river, now quiet, now leaping over its 
 rocky bed, is continually in sight, the 
 hills bounding the valley adding interest 
 to the view, and the many villages strung 
 along the road giving evidence of solid 
 prosperity. Schenectady, with grand old 
 Union College ; St. Johnsville, rich and 
 prosperous ; Little Falls, with its charm- 
 ing scenery ; Utica, a large and wealthy 
 city ; and Rome, another prosperous city, 
 are all in this valley, famous as the scene 
 of many thrilling events in the history of 
 the country. 
 
 Syracuse is the next city of importance 
 on the line of the road, and is famed for 
 its salt-wells, and for being the place at 
 which the political conventions of the 
 State are usually held. Next comes 
 Rochester, the metropolis of Central New 
 York, and the site of the celebrated 
 Genesee Falls. All trains stop here, 
 some long enough to allow a glimpse of 
 the falls, in which case the opportunity 
 should be improved. At Lockport, the 
 wonderful system of locks, by which the 
 Erie canal descends from the level of Lake 
 Erie, is visible from the car-windows. 
 
 [All these places have been described 
 in ArrLETONs' IIand-Book op American 
 Travel — Northern ano Eastern Tour.] 
 
 At Suspension Bridge we cross the 
 Niagara River, in full sight of the falls, 
 and far above the waters rushing toward 
 the whirlpool below. We now find our- 
 selves in Canada, at the eastern end of 
 
 the Great Western Railway, which is, 
 although one of the most uninteresting, 
 one of the most comfortable roads in 
 the country. In the neighborhood of St. 
 Catharines and Hamilton there is some 
 attractive scenery, but with these excep- 
 tions every thing is dull, flat, and un- 
 attractive, and the traveler will be glad, 
 when, emerging from a cut, he suddenly 
 comes upon the eastern shore of the De- 
 troit River, at Windsor, opposite Detroit, 
 Michigan, when our tour to the west 
 properly commences. 
 
 MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit, 677 miles from 
 New York ; Grand Trunk Junction, 680 ; 
 Dearborn, 687 ; Wayne, 695 ; Denton's, 
 702; Ypsilanti, 707 ; Ann Arbor, 715; 
 Dexter, 724 ; Chelsea, 732 ; Grass Lake, 
 743; Jackson, 753; Parma, 764; Albion, 
 773 ; Marshall, 785 ; White's, 792 ; Bat- 
 tle Creek, 798 ; Galcsburg, 812 ; Kala- 
 mazoo, 821 ; Ostemo, 827 ; Mattawau, 
 833 ; Lawton, 837 ; Decatur, 847 ; Dow- 
 agiac, 856 ; Nilcs, 869 ; Buchanan, 875 ; 
 Dayton, 879 ; Avery's, 886 ; Three Oaks, 
 888 ; New Buffalo, 896 ; Michigan City, 
 906; Porter, 918; Lake, 926; Gibson's, 
 938; Calumet, 947; Chicago, 961. 
 
 The Michigan Central Railway (284 
 miles in length) runs for the most part 
 through a fine agricultural country, but 
 not of a striking or picturesque charac- 
 ter. In many places it passes through 
 dense woods, and in others across and 
 along the winding rivers which abundant- 
 ly water the section of the State traversed 
 by the road. There is an air of solid 
 prosperity along the whole length of this 
 line, and in the spring and summer the 
 general aspect of the country is attrac- 
 tive and pleasing. 
 
 l>etroift, MicSa. (677 miles), is 
 one of the oldest cities in the country, 
 having been founded as a French mis- 
 sionary station in the year 1670. It is 
 called the " City of the Straits " (which 
 is in fact a translation of its name), from 
 its situation on the banks of the Detroit 
 Jiiver, a noble stream or rather strait, 20 
 miles long, connecting Lakes St. Clair and 
 Erie, and affording the best harbor on the 
 whole chain of the "Great Lakes." This 
 river is subject to no material change of 
 
Detroit.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [Detroit. 
 
 level, varies in width from one-half to one 
 mile, has a current of from three to four 
 miles an hour, and is noted for the clear- 
 ness and purity of its deep, fish-teeming 
 waters. 
 
 The city extends along the bank of the 
 river for about three miles, and is built 
 up for about two and a half miles from 
 the water. For a short distance from the 
 river-bank it rises gradually, and then be- 
 comes perfectly level. The streets are 
 wide, and generally shaded by an abun- 
 dance of trees ; the stores metropolitan 
 in size and appearance ; the churches nu- 
 merous, and in many instances very beau- 
 tiful ; the private residences in the best 
 portions of the city surrounded by spa- 
 cious grounds, tastefully ornamented and 
 filled with trees, flowers, and shrubbery, 
 and the sidewalks broad and clean. 
 
 The city is laid out upon two plans, 
 the one, that of a circle with avenues ra- 
 diating from a centre like the spokes of a 
 wheel ; the other, that of streets crossing 
 each other at right angles. The result 
 has been a slight degree of intricacy in 
 certain localities, which inconvenience is 
 more than counterbalanced by a number 
 of little triangular parks which diversify 
 and ornament the place. 
 
 Detroit is always a pleasant place to 
 visit, and its citizens are notably hospita- 
 ble. In summer there are almost daily 
 pleasure excursions, and the noble river 
 furnishes a never-failing source of delight. 
 The owners of private boats and yachts, 
 and the numerous boat clubs, are organ- 
 ized as the Detroit River Navy. Several 
 times each season there are grand reviews 
 of this "Navy," when two or three hun- 
 dred of these dainty craft form in line, 
 and, headed by a small steamer, with a 
 band, pass up and down the river accom- 
 panied by steamers, and gazed upon by 
 thousands on the shores. 
 
 Hotels. — The three leading hotels are 
 the Russell House, Biddle House, and Michi- 
 gan Exchange, which, although about 
 equal as far as regards the " table," are 
 in other respects to be estimated in the 
 order in which we have mentioned them. 
 
 The Grand Circus is the principal park, 
 and from it radiate the avenues previous- 
 ly mentioned. It was originally intended 
 to be a circle traversed by two avenue3 
 intersecting each other at right angles. 
 
 Only half of this design was ever carried 
 out, and the park consists of two quad- 
 rants, in each of which is a fountain. 
 During the summer season there is music 
 in this park two evenings in each week. 
 The monument in memory of the Michi- 
 gan soldiers who fell during the civil war 
 is now building in one of these quadrants. 
 Two of the avenues radiating from the 
 Grand Circus are laid out as boulevards, 
 and all are very beautiful. Jefferson and 
 Woodward Avenues are the two principal 
 streets, and intersect each otli£r at right 
 angles. West Fort Street is a broad and 
 beautiful street, lined with elegant resi- 
 dences, among which are those of Senator 
 Z. Chandler, Governor Baldwin, James F. 
 Joy, the railroad magnate, and other prom- 
 inent men ; Lafayette Avenue is another 
 fashionable street. 
 
 The Campus Martius is a large open 
 space through which passes Woodward 
 Avenue, and from which diverge Michi- 
 gan, Michigan-Grand, and Monroe Ave- 
 nues and West Fort Street. On this front 
 the Opera-House, the Russell House, and 
 the present City Hall, while upon one side 
 is the new City Hall, one of the most beau- 
 tiful in the country, and built entirely of 
 Medina stone. The stores around this 
 plaza are fine large buildings, and, when 
 the old City Hall is destroyed, the place 
 will rank architecturally with the best in 
 the country. 
 
 The Opcra-House is an elegant struct- 
 ure, and both in size and beauty is only 
 surpassed by some five or six in the Uni- 
 ted States. 
 
 The Custom-House, in which is also the 
 Post- Off ce, is in Griswold Street, the Wall 
 Street of the city. It is a large stone 
 building on the same model as those in 
 Chicago, Cleveland, Toledo, Milwaukee, 
 and many other cities, in which large 
 post-offices have recently been erected. 
 
 The Board of Trade Building is anoth- 
 er fine edifice, but it is unfortunately lo- 
 cated on Woodbridge Street, near the 
 river, where its fine proportions cannot 
 be seen to advantage. 
 
 The Michigan Central Freight Depot 
 should by all means be visited. It is 
 1,250 feet long, 102 feet wide, and is an 
 immense room, without partitions or pil- 
 lars. It is covered by a self-supporting 
 corrugated iron roof, which is considered 
 3 
 
Detroit.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Detroit 
 
 a marvel of mechanical skill. This depot 
 is on. the Hue of the wharf, which is also 
 covered by an iron roof, and freight and 
 passengers in the stormiest weather are 
 transferred from boats to the cars with- 
 out exposure to the wet. In the immedi- 
 ate vicinity are the great Wheat Elevator 
 of the company — from the cupola of which 
 a superb view of the city, the river, and 
 Lakes St. Clair and Erie, may be had — the 
 Round House — in which 16 locomotives 
 stand under a dome, second only to that 
 of the Ca_pitol, at Washington — and all 
 the great workshops of the Company. 
 
 The churches of Detroit are noted for 
 their number and beauty. The following 
 are found the most attractive to strangers : 
 St. Paul's (Episcopal), corner of Con- 
 gress and Shelby Streets, is the parent 
 church of the diocese, and is noted for 
 its beautiful roof, which is " self-support- 
 ing." There is not a pillar in the church. 
 Christ's (Episcopal), Jefferson Avenue, 
 above Hastings Street, St. John's (Epis- 
 copal), Woodward Avenue, and Grace, 
 (Episcopal), Fort Street, are all elegant 
 structures. The Fort Street Presbyterian 
 Church, corner of Third Street, has the 
 handsomest front of any church in the 
 city. The First Presbyterian, State Street, 
 the Jefferson Avenue Presbyterian, above 
 Rivard Street, and the First Congrega- 
 tional, Fort Street, corner of Wayne 
 Street, are all handsome churches. The 
 Central Church (Methodist Episcopal) 
 has an elaborately decorated interior. It 
 is on Woodward Avenue, above the Grand 
 Circus, near St. John's. St. Anne's (Ro- 
 man Catholic), Earned Street, corner of 
 Bates Street, is the oldest church in the 
 city, and is noted for its line choir. St. 
 Peter and St. Paul's Cathedral (Roman 
 Catholic), Jefferson Avenue, corner of St. 
 Autoiue Street, is the largest church in 
 the State. 
 
 The Convent of the Ladies of the Sa- 
 cred Jf'urt, on Jefferson Avenue, near St. 
 A n( i line Street, is a large and very beau- 
 t it" ul building. 
 
 The House of Correction, in the north- 
 ern portion of the city, is considered one 
 of tin' best reformatory prisons in the 
 country. Directly opposite to tin' House 
 of Correction is a Home for discharged 
 female prisoners, who are received here 
 and furnished with work until places can 
 
 be found for them, out of the reach of 
 the evil influences formerly surrounding 
 them. 
 
 Water-works. — Detroit is well supplied 
 with river water by the Water-works, 
 which are located on the river in the up- 
 per portion of the city. The water is 
 forced over a mile through immense iron 
 pipes to a reservoir, near the House of 
 Correction, whence it is distributed in 
 the usual manner. 
 
 The school system of Detroit is admi- 
 rable, and its school-houses are noble 
 buildings. 
 
 The manufacturing interests of the 
 city are large, continually increasing in 
 importance, and of every kind and de- 
 scription. The shipping interest is also 
 very important, while pork and fish pack- 
 ing gives employment to largo numbers 
 of men. According to the census of 18T0, 
 Detroit has a population of 79,619, and 
 is the eighteenth city in size in the Union. 
 
 Elmwood Cemetery is a very beautiful 
 place within the city limits, and is reached 
 by street cars. 
 
 Woodlawn Cemetery is below the city. 
 It is of recent origin. 
 
 Fort Wayne is a bastioned redoubt, 
 about three miles below the Michigan 
 Central Railway Depot. It stands upon 
 the bank of the river, completely com- 
 manding the channel. The Fort Street 
 and Elmwood cars run within half a mile 
 of it, and it is also a favorite point to 
 which rides and drives are taken. 
 
 Belle lie, an island at the head of the 
 river, opposite the upper limit of the city, 
 is a favorite resort for picnics, etc. 
 
 Grosse lie, 18 miles below the city, is 
 an island over 3 miles long ami 1 mile 
 wide, and is a favorite resort of the weal- 
 thier residents of Detroit, many of whom 
 have beautiful summer residences upon 
 its bold shore, overlooking the main chan- 
 nel of the river. There is a hotel upon 
 the island, and the fishing, boating, and 
 bathing, are excellent. 
 
 Grosse Pointe, a few miles above the 
 city, is a point of land projecting into 
 Lake St. Clair. It is noted for its cherry- 
 orchards, and is the terminus of a beau- 
 tiful drive over a good road. Along the 
 shores of Lake St. Clair arc a number of 
 summer residences of gentlemen doing 
 business in the city. 
 
Tut-in-Bay Isl's.] NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [Parma. 
 
 B»iatf»iiE-1Bay Bslara«ls. — This is 
 a group of islands in Lake Erie, near the 
 mouth of the Detroit River, and is famous 
 as the scene of Commodore Perry's vic- 
 tory, September 10, 1813. Within trie 
 past few years this has become a favorite 
 summer resort, as it combines all the ad- 
 vantages of pure air, bathing, fishing, 
 boating, and convenience of access from 
 any of the lake cities. From Detroit 
 there is a daily steamer to Kelly's Island, 
 the largest of the group. The hotel ac- 
 commodations are good. These islands 
 are noted for their vineyards, and the su- 
 perior quality of the wine produced. 
 
 ©csirfeoni (0S7 miles) is a small 
 village on the river Rouge, 10 miles from 
 Detroit. Its only importance consists in 
 its being the site of a United States Ar- 
 senal. 
 
 Ypsllauta (707 miles) is a pleasant 
 and prosperous place, of about 6,500 in- 
 habitants. It contains many handsome 
 churches, residences, and stores, and a 
 fine Union School, and is the seat of the 
 Slate Normal School. The Follet House 
 is a capital hotel. Paper is very exten- 
 sively manufactured here. 
 
 Prom Ypsilanti to Dexter the road runs 
 along the lluron River, which it crosses 
 at many points. 
 
 Aram. AbtIkh* (715 miles) is a very 
 pleasant city, of about 9,000 inhabitants, 
 though nothing of it is seen from the cars 
 except what is known as the "Lower 
 town," consisting of a few mills and di- 
 lapidated stores and dwellings, The city 
 stands upon an elevated plateau south of 
 the depot, is regularly laid out, in many 
 portions is handsomely built, and contains 
 several elegant churches. In the centre 
 of the city is a public square containing 
 the county buildings, which are old and 
 small. The Union School is one of the 
 finest buildings in the State. 
 
 The University of Michigan, which is 
 located in Ann Arbor, is one of the no- 
 blest institutions in the land. With fees 
 little more than nominal, and with a stand- 
 ard of scholarship as high as any col- 
 lege or university in the country, it num- 
 bers among its students natives of every 
 part of the globe. The three colleges 
 of the University are those of Law, Medi- 
 cine, and Literature, Science, and Art, in 
 all of which are large and efficient corps 
 
 of professors. The university buildings 
 occupy a square of ground, each front of 
 which is a quarter of a mile in length. 
 There are no dormitories, all the space 
 being devoted to the purposes of instruc- 
 tion. The library is large and constant- 
 ly increasing ; the geological collection is 
 one of the most complete in the country ; 
 the art-gallery contains plaster casts and 
 reductions of numbers of fine pieces of 
 statuary, as well as the original " Nydia " 
 by Rogers, which was carved especially 
 for this institution ; and the medical mu- 
 seum is very complete. The grounds are 
 thickly planted with trees, a custom hav- 
 ing been originated by the class of 1858 
 for every graduate in the literary depart- 
 ment to set out a tree with his own hands. 
 The Observatory is one of the prominent 
 features of the institution, but is not in 
 the same group with the other buildings, 
 being located on a hill about a mile dis- 
 tant : the instruments are large and very 
 perfect. The total number of graduates 
 from the university in the first 25 years 
 of its existence (1870) was 2,470. 
 
 The last two weeks in June are those 
 devoted to the commencement exercises, 
 and visitors usually select this time as 
 the most favorable to see the university. 
 
 The Gregory House, fronting on the 
 public square, is the best hotel in Ami 
 Arbor. 
 
 .Siirksoii (753 miles) is a city of 
 about 11,000 inhabitants, and is one of 
 the busiest, prettiest, and most important 
 places in the State. It has large manu- 
 factories of various kinds, and contains 
 the Michigan State Prison. It is upon 
 the edge of the coal-measures of the 
 State, and the mines can be seen from the 
 railroad. Its geographical position, and 
 the enterprise of its citizens combined, 
 have made it a prominent railroad centre. 
 The Grand River Valley Branch Railway, 
 the Jackson, Lansing, Saginaw Railway, 
 the Jackson Branch of the Michigan 
 Southern Railway, and a road through 
 Jonesville on the Michigan Southern Rail- 
 way to Angola, Ind., all connect at this 
 point. Artesian wells are bored here 
 without difficulty, and the Ilolley Water- 
 works are now being put in order. 
 
 Parma (764 miles) is where the 
 road reaches the Kalamazoo River, which 
 it follows to Kalamazoo, passing through 
 5 
 
Albion.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [CniCAGO. 
 
 a rich and beautiful country noted for its 
 wheat. In the harvest season the whole 
 country for miles and miles looks like one 
 i waving sea, while the river con- 
 stantly coming into view adds to the 
 beauty of the picture. 
 
 AOsioii (773 miles) is a flourishing 
 village. There is a small collegiate in- 
 stitution here, known as the Albion Col- 
 lege, which is under the control of the 
 Methodist Episcopal Church. 
 
 ftflarslaall (785 miles) is a flourish- 
 ing city, of about 5,000 inhabitants, being 
 noted for its beauty and the fine quality 
 of its flour. Paper is also largely manu- 
 factured here. The Kalamazoo River fur- 
 nishes a tine water-power, and is the 
 source of the prosperity of the place. 
 This being the terminus of one of the 
 divisions of the road, the railway com- 
 pany has erected large locomotive and 
 repair shops, and a fine eating-house, 
 which, from the superior quality of a dish 
 for which it is famous, is known among 
 travellers as the Chicken-pie House. 
 
 The best hotel is the Marshall House. 
 
 The Union School building at this 
 place is probably the most costly hi the 
 State. 
 
 ISaltle Creole (798 miles) is at 
 the mouth of the creek from which it 
 takes its name, and which is the largest 
 tributary of the Kalamazoo River. It is 
 well known throughout the State as a 
 milling town, and is, besides, very attrac- 
 tive as a place of residence. Its manu- 
 factures are numerous, diversified, and 
 constantly increasing. Altogether the 
 place is one of great thrift and beauty. 
 The population is about 6,500. The J'cn- 
 insular Railway is completed from this 
 place through Charlotte, in Eaton County, 
 to Lansing. 
 
 Kalamazoo (821 miles) is the 
 largest village in the State. It has a 
 population of about 11,000, and is built 
 as much with a view to beauty as to 
 utility. Its streets arc lined with trees, 
 many of them the native burr-oaks, care- 
 fully preserved, and the many elegant 
 residences with which it abounds are 
 uniformly surrounded with handsome 
 grounds. A college, under the control 
 of the Baptists, and an excellent Female 
 Academy, arc established here, and this is 
 also the site of the "Slate Asylum for 
 G 
 
 the Insane." This institution is admi- 
 rably managed. The buildings are con- 
 structed at large expense, and | i 
 considerable architectural beauty. The 
 Hollcy Water-works supply the town with 
 water. The leading hotels are the JBvr- 
 dick House and Kalamazoo House. The 
 Kalamazoo, Allegan, 3c Grand Rajnds 
 Railway, running from Crand Rapids to 
 this place, connects here with the St. Jo- 
 seph Valley Railway, extending from here 
 to White Pigeon, on the Lake Shore and 
 Michigan Southern Railway. A section 
 of a railroad from this place to South 
 Haven, on Lake Michigan, is also in oper- 
 ation. 
 
 ILawttoja (S37 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage, important on account of the exten- 
 sive iron-works recently erected, and 
 which arc under charge of General Q. 
 A. Gillmore, who performed such excel- 
 lent service during the late war. 
 
 NIfles (861 miles) is where the rail- 
 way crosses the St. Joseph's River. It 
 is a place of considerable importance, 
 being the commercial centre of this sec- 
 tion of the State. This is a pleasant 
 place to stop at, the drives in the city 
 being attractive, and the residents very 
 hospitable. Population about 5,0u0. The 
 Michigan Air-Line Railroad is nearly 
 completed from Jackson through Three 
 Rivers to this place. 
 
 New ISaiilalo is a small village, 
 important as the point of junction of the 
 new railroad extending north along the 
 eastern shore of Lake Michigan with the 
 Michigan Central. The road is completed 
 to St. Joseph, which brings it to the 
 heart of the famous fruit region of Michi- 
 gan. 
 
 Michigan City, Bud. (90G 
 miles), is of some importance as being 
 the terminus of one of the divisions of 
 the road, and consequently the location 
 of repair and locomotive shops. It is 
 the site of the Northern Penitentiary of 
 Indiana. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. 
 
 Chicago (963 miles) has within forty 
 years grown from a small Indian trading 
 post to the position of the metropolis of 
 the Northwest, and the greatest railway 
 centre on the continent. It is situated 
 
Chicago.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [ClIICAdO. 
 
 on the western shore of Lake Michigan, 
 at the mouth of the Chicago River. By 
 means of the latter, and the Illinois and 
 Michigan Canal, it has continuous com- 
 munication with the Mississippi River 
 and the Gulf of Mexico, on the south and 
 west, and with the chain of the Great 
 Lakes, the St. Lawrence, and the Atlan- 
 tic Ocean, on the east. Probably no in- 
 land city in the world possesses greater 
 facilities for commercial intercourse. 
 
 The history of the city, though brief, 
 is interesting, not only on account of 
 the romantic incidents of its early dis- 
 covery and occupation, but as furnish- 
 ing one of the most, perhaps the most, 
 remarkable instance on record of rapid, 
 sustained, and permanent growth. 
 
 The first visitors to the site of the 
 present city were Joliet (Louis) and Mar- 
 quette (Jacques), who arrived August, 
 1673. Point au Sable, a native of St. 
 Domingo, followed in 1796, but soon 
 afterward removed to Peoria. The first 
 permanent settlement was made in 180-1, 
 by Mr. John Kinzie, who moved hither 
 from St. Joseph, at that time a mission- 
 ary station on the east side of Lake 
 Michigan. On April 7 and August 12, 
 1812, the Indian massacre occurred at 
 Fort Dearborn, which resulted so disas- 
 trously to the little garrison. 
 
 At the close of 1830, Chicago con- 
 tained twelve houses and three suburban 
 (" country") residences on Madison Street, 
 with a population, cdmposed of whites, 
 half-breeds, and blacks, numbering about 
 100. The first map of the town, as sur- 
 veyed by James Thompson, bears date 
 August 4, 1830. 
 
 Fort Dearborn was constructed in 
 1804, rebuilt in 1816, and pulled down 
 in 1857. It stood near the head of Michi- 
 gan Avenue, below its intersection with 
 Lake Street, and a little north of the 
 present Marine Hospital building. 
 
 The town was organized August 10, 
 1833, incorporated as a city March 4, 
 1837, and the first election held May 1, 
 1837. The first vessel entered the har- 
 bor June 11, 1834; and at the official 
 census, taken July 1, 1837, the entire 
 population was found to be 4,170. Out- 
 side of Fort Dearborn, in 1833, were 
 about 35 houses, mostly built of logs. 
 The first frame buildincr was erected in 
 
 1832, by George W. Dole, and the first 
 brick house in 1833. It was standing 
 on Monroe Street, near Clarke, at a re- 
 cent period. In 1843 the population of 
 the city had increased to 7,580 ; in 1847 
 to 16,859 ; in 1850 to 28,269 ; in 1855 to 
 80,023; in 1860 to 109,263, and in 1865 
 to 178,539. Its present population, city 
 and suburban, is more than 450,000. The 
 census of 1870 gave the population of the 
 city proper as 299,370. 
 
 During the years 1856-58 the entire 
 business portion of the city was raised 
 from three to eight feet above its former 
 level, which has facilitated drainage, and 
 greatly improved its sanitary condition 
 as well as its commercial facilities. 
 
 The site of the city is at present a 
 gently-inclined plane, the ground in the 
 western part of the city, three miles from 
 the lake, being from 15 to 18 feet above 
 the level of the lake. The streets are 
 generally 80 feet wide, and regularly 
 built. They cross each other at right 
 angles, and are for the most part paved 
 with stone or with wooden pave- 
 ment. Many of them are from three to 
 seven miles in length. The Chicago 
 River, and its two branches, run through 
 the city, dividing it into three unequal 
 divisions, known as North, South, and 
 West Chicago. Numerous bridges and 
 tunnels connect the main avenues of 
 travel leading from the city proper to the 
 Northern and Western Divisions. These 
 divisions are subdivided into 20 wards, 
 and contain 1,100 streets, avenues, and 
 alleys. The river and ship canals afford 
 a harbor for the largest vessels for more 
 than ten miles, at the entrance of the 
 first of which is a new iron light-house. 
 State Street is the Broadway of Chicago ; 
 while Michigan Avenue, Wabash Avenue, 
 Prairie Avenue, South Park Avenue, 
 West Washington Street, and North 
 Dearborn Street, are distinguished by 
 princely edifices, and adorned with rows 
 of luxuriant trees. On South Water 
 Street were situated warehouses and the 
 large wholesale stores, while many of the 
 largest and most elegant of the latter are 
 now located on Michigan and Wabash 
 Avenues, making a gradual inroad upon 
 a favorite residence locality. Many of 
 the private residences on the north and 
 west side of the river are handsomely 
 1 
 
\ 
 
 
 \ 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 ) 
 
 F 
 
 
 
 \ f I 
 
 
 
 
 kJ 
 
 A 
 
Chicago ] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [CniCAGO. 
 
 built, and surrounded by highly-ornament- 
 ed or cultivated grounds. 
 
 Chicago is the greatest primary grain- 
 market hi the world. The first shipment, 
 consisting of 78 bushels of wheat, tDok 
 place in 1838. In 18G3 the exports of 
 grain exceeded fifty-four million bushels, 
 in 1865 about the same amount was 
 shipped, and in 1872 the grain receipts 
 were nearly eighty-nine million bushels. 
 In 18G5 nearly six hundred and fifty mill- 
 ion feet of lumber were received, and in 
 1869 there were 1,183,659,283 feet of 
 lumber, besides 900,000,000 pieces of 
 laths and shingles received. It is prob- 
 ably the greatest stock-market in the 
 world, as the following statistics (the 
 latest we have at hand) will show : Re- 
 ceipts in 1872 — cattle, 684,075 ; hogs, 
 3,488,528; sheep, over 300,000. The 
 provision-trade is also very extensive and 
 prosperous ; the enormous number of 
 1,425,079 hogs was packed in the win- 
 ter of 1872-73. To those who would 
 carry away with them a just estimate of 
 the greatness of Chicago, a visit to the 
 extensive grain elevators, cattle and lum- 
 ber yards, and packing-houses, is neces- 
 sary. 
 
 Chicago has been the arena of one of 
 the most terrific and destructive confla- 
 grations of modern times. The summer 
 of 1871 was unprecedentedly dry, and 
 many fires of greater or less extent 
 throughout the Northwest had given 
 ominous warning of the fate in store for 
 any large city caught napping. In Chi- 
 cago itself there had been several unusu- 
 ally destructive fires on previous days, 
 tiring the firemen and disorganizing the 
 department ; and finally, on the evening 
 of Sunday, the 8th of October, the main 
 conflagration commenced, having its ori- 
 gin in a small wooden barn on Dc Ko- 
 ven Street, in the Western District of the 
 city. The buildings in that quarter 
 were mostly of wood, and there were 
 several lumber-yards along the margin 
 of the river. Through these the flames 
 swept with incredible fury, and were 
 carried across the stream by the strong 
 westerly wind which was prevailing at 
 the time. From the river they swept up 
 into the Southern Division, which was 
 closely built, up with stores, warehouses, 
 and public buildings of stone, brick, and 
 
 iron, many of which were supposed to 
 be tire-proof. The lire raged all day on 
 Monday, the 9th, and crossed the main 
 channel of the Chicago River, consuming 
 all before it in the Northern District, 
 which was occupied mostly by dwelling- 
 houses. From the very start the fire had 
 been completely beyond the control of 
 any human agency, and it was only on 
 Monday evening that a great storm 
 drenched the city and put an end to the 
 progress of the flames. 
 
 In the Western Division, where the fire 
 originated, about 194 acres of buildings 
 were destroyed, including sixteen acres 
 swept by the fire of Saturday evening, 
 October 7th. This section contained, 
 besides several lumber-yards' and plan- 
 ing-mills, and numerous wooden struct- 
 ures of an inferior sort, the Union Depot 
 of the St. Louis and the Pittsburg & 
 Fort Wayne Railroads. Five hundred 
 buildings were destroyed in all, and 
 2,250 persons rendered homeless. In 
 the Southern Division the burnt district 
 comprised about 460 acres. It extended 
 from a line running diagonally from the 
 corner of Michigan Avenue and Congress 
 Street, southwest to the intersection of 
 Fifth Avenue and Polk Street, up to the 
 main channel of the river on the north, 
 and filled the whole space between the 
 southern branch of the river to the lake, 
 only one block remaining unburnt in all 
 that area. This district contained the 
 greater part of the inost expensive struct- 
 ures in the city — all the wholesale stores, 
 all the newspaper offices, all the princi- 
 pal banks, and insurance and law offices, 
 many coal-yards, nearly all the hotels, 
 and many of the factories, the court- 
 house, custom-house, Chamber of Com- 
 merce, and other public buildings. Many 
 of the finest churches in the city were 
 consumed, among them that of the Rev. 
 Robert Collyer, who made heroic but 
 unavailing efforts to save it. The num- 
 ber of buildings destroyed in this divis- 
 ion was about 3,650, which included 28 
 hotels and upward of 1,600 stores and 
 manufacturing establishments. About 
 22,000 persons were rendered homeless. 
 In the Northern Division the devastation 
 was most wide-spread, more than one- 
 half the entire area in that section being 
 burned over. Of the 13,800 buildings in 
 
Chicago.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [Chicago- 
 
 that whole district not more than 500 
 were left standing, leaving 13,300 in ash- 
 es, and rendering 7-1,450 persons home- 
 less. That part of Chicago next the lake, 
 as far north as Chicago Avenue, was oc- 
 cupied by first-class private residences, 
 of which only one was left standing. 
 
 The total area burned over in the city, 
 including streets, was very nearly 3 J- 
 square miles. The number of buildings 
 destroyed was 17,450, and the number of 
 persons rendered homeless was 98,500. 
 Of the latter, upward of 250 are said to 
 have lost their lives. 
 
 Not including depreciation in real es- 
 tate, and loss of business occasioned by 
 the lire, the grand total of pecuniary 
 damage has been estimated at $190,000,- 
 000. There was insurance on this to the 
 amount of $100,000,000, of which hardly 
 $45,000,000 was collected— the first re- 
 sult of the fire being to bankrupt many 
 of the insurance companies all over the 
 country. 
 
 Those who had built up Chicago, how- 
 ever, and made her one of the great 
 commercial centres of the world, were not 
 people to be crushed even by such a blow. 
 
 Between Saturday evening and Tues- 
 day morning upward of two hundred mill- 
 ion dollars' worth of property had been de- 
 stroyed, merchants and millionnaires were 
 being fed on government rations, but, on 
 Wednesday, live of the leading daily news- 
 papers were published, and hundreds of 
 merchants announced their whereabouts. 
 The business-men held meetings, and re- 
 solved to ask no compromises of credit- 
 ors, and devised means for the rebuilding 
 of their stores, and the resumption of 
 business. This indomitable spirit has 
 been displayed ever since, and bids fair 
 to turn disaster into triumph. A new 
 Chicago has risen on the ruins of the old, 
 grander, more magnificent, and more ex- 
 tensive ; and, with one-fourth of the city 
 in ashes, the business of the year suc- 
 ceeding the catastrophe was greater than 
 ever before in a similar period. 
 
 Of what was done by way of recon- 
 structing the city during that year, we 
 can give no better account than by copy- 
 ing an article from the Chicago Tribune, 
 which, under the head of " A Year's 
 Work," says : 
 
 " We know of no words which will 
 
 convey to persons residing outside of 
 Chicago an idea of what has been done 
 in the way of rebuilding the city, than to 
 say that, beginning on April 15, 1872, 
 and ending December 1, 1872, excluding 
 Sundays, counting 200 working-days, and 
 each day of eight hours, there will be 
 completed one brick, stone, or iron build- 
 ing, 25 feet front, and from four to six 
 stories high, for each hour of that time. 
 In other words, the buildings of that size 
 and character completed, and that will be 
 completed by December 1st, will average 
 one for each 60 minutes of 200 days of 
 eight hours each. 
 
 " This estimate, which will fall below 
 the actual fact, does not include the many 
 stone, brick, iron, and wooden buildings 
 built outside of the burned district, and 
 which alone equal the ordinary new build- 
 ings put up in Chicago annually. There 
 is no precedent in the world's history of 
 such a growth ; no precedent of such 
 energy and bravery by a people who, 
 within the year, had seen $200,000,000 
 of their property destroyed by fire. The 
 statement will sound extraordinary that, 
 for seven months in 1872 — beginning the 
 first day the frost was out of the ground 
 — there was built and completed in the 
 burnt district of Chicago a brick, stone, 
 or iron warehouse every hour of each 
 working-day in that time. . . . 
 
 "This vast labor has not been without 
 an increase in the business of all the great 
 transportation companies tributary to the 
 city. Nor has all this been accomplished 
 without a corresponding increase of popu- 
 lation. In June, 1870, the Federal census 
 gave us a population of 299,227, and a 
 year later the directory census gave us 
 334,270. When it is remembered all that 
 has been done in Chicago since January 
 last, and the increase of trade in every 
 branch of industry, it will not surprise 
 any person to know that our population, 
 to-day, is at least 400,000, a part of which, 
 however, is probably transient." 
 
 The commerce of the city in 1872 ag- 
 gregated fully $450,000,000, and some 
 $45,000,000 was expended in rebuilding ; 
 most of the burned district being covered 
 with structures more handsome and dura- 
 ble than those destroyed. The sum of 
 $10,000,000 additional has been expended 
 to date (August, 1873), in the erection of 
 9 
 
Hotels, etc.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [ClIURCIIES, ETC. 
 
 additional buildings. The population in 
 May last, as given by the directory can- 
 vassers, was 465,170. 
 
 Chicago was always noted for the ex- 
 tent and perfection of her hotel accom- 
 modations. Since the fire the hotel sys- 
 tem has been entirely reconstructed, cov- 
 ering a much greater area, but not mate- 
 rially increasing the number of rooms at 
 the disposal of guests, the most particular 
 attention having been paid to making 
 provision for comfort and convenience. 
 About 20 hotels have been erected, at 
 a total cost of $8,500,000, and the 
 furnishing will swell the aggregate to 
 $10,000,000. The leading hotels are 
 Palmer's (not quite finished), the Pa- 
 cific, Sherman, Tremont, Brigrjs, Gardner, 
 3faltcson, Commercial, and Clifton, all of 
 which are luxuriously appointed. There 
 are also several very good hotels con- 
 ducted on the European plan, prominent 
 among which arc Parke's and Aw/m's. 
 
 THEATRES, ETC. 
 
 The city is well provided with places 
 of amusement. Mc Viewer's Theatre, near 
 the corner of State and Madison Streets, 
 is one of the finest in the country ; and in 
 appointments and company will compare 
 favorably with any in New York. Hoo- 
 lefs, just west of the Sherman House, is 
 also a beautiful theatre. These two have 
 been rebuilt since the fire. Aiken's The- 
 atre, on Wabash Avenue and Congress 
 Street, and Mj/er's Opera- House (min- 
 strel), on Monroe Street near State, are 
 new. The Academy of Music, on Hal- 
 stead Street near Madison, was built in 
 eight weeks after the fire, and has re- 
 cently been enlarged and otherwise im- 
 proved. The Globe Theatre, on Des- 
 plaines Street near Madison, hitherto 
 devoted to the vaudeville class of enter- 
 tainments, is now devoted to legitimate 
 drama, and has a good company. The 
 far-famed Opera House (Crosby's) and the 
 Museum (Wood's) have not been rebuilt. 
 
 <uri:rm:s. 
 
 A great number of church structures 
 were destroyed in the fire, but most of 
 10 
 
 them have been rebuilt, though many of 
 them have made a change of site farther 
 away from the business centre. The di- 
 rectory gives a present list of 212, which 
 includes 25 missions. Of the 187 churches, 
 20 are Baptist, 1*7 Congregational, 18 Epis- 
 copal, 26 Evangelical and Lutheran, 5 
 Jewish, 25 Methodist, 21 Presbyterian, 
 27 Catholic, 4 New Jerusalem, 5 Unitari- 
 an, and 3 Universalist. In no other 
 large city in the country, probably, are 
 the leading denominations so nearly equal 
 in strength, or better represented by their 
 pulpit eloquence. Particular attention is 
 paid in most of the churches to the char- 
 acter and quality of the music. 
 
 OTHER BUILDINGS. 
 
 The Chamber of Commerce was re- 
 built on the old site on Washington 
 Street, opposite the Court-House Square, 
 and is a building not unlike the old one, 
 though the stories are higher and the 
 decorations much finer than before. The 
 Board of Trade has a membership of 
 about 1,400, and the tourist will find it 
 interesting to visit the ladies' gallery 
 during the daily session, from 11 to 1 
 o'clock; or any gentleman may obtain 
 admission to the floor if introduced by a 
 member. 
 
 The old Custom-House, on Dearborn 
 and Monroe Streets, only the walls of 
 which were left standing, has been sold 
 to the city, and is now being Qtted up as 
 a public library, the nucleus for which 
 was furnished by donations of books 
 from Great Britain and by Eastern pub- 
 lishers. The collection now comprises 
 about 8,000 volumes, but a large number 
 will be added by purchase as soon as t lie 
 building is made ready to receive them. 
 The government has secured a large block 
 a little south of the old site, and the erec- 
 tion of one of the largest and finest 
 buildings in the country is now in prog- 
 ress. It will cost more than $3,000,000, 
 and will be used as a post-otiice as well 
 as a custom-house, containing also rooms 
 for the United States courts of the dis- 
 trict. 
 
 The Court-House Square is still vacant, 
 except that a small portion of the old 
 building still stands on the eastern side. 
 A new structure, very much superior to 
 the old one, will be commenced shortly. 
 
Newspapers.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [Parks, etc. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS, ETC. 
 
 There are about 80 publications in the 
 city claiming to be classed under the 
 head of newspapers. The daily press, 
 proper, has a circulation of 98,000, and 
 is widely celebrated for its enterprise 
 and ability. The leading papers are the 
 Tribune, Times, Inter- Ocean, Evening 
 Journal, Evening Tost, and Staats Zeitung 
 (German), each of which is issued from a 
 tine building. It is worthy of note that 
 the Tribune building, erected but a short 
 time before the "great conflagration" 
 was believed to be so thoroughly fire- 
 proof that it was not insured against the 
 disaster ; but it shared the common fate, 
 and was replaced by a more handsome 
 and larger building of brown-stone. 
 
 The passenger-depots have all been re- 
 stored. Two of these are very imposing 
 stone structures : the Central Depot, at the 
 foot of Lake Street, which forms the ter- 
 minus of the Illinois Central, Michigan 
 Central, and Burlington & Quincy Rail- 
 roads ; and the Union Depot on Van Bu- 
 ren Street, half a mile west from the lake, 
 forming the terminus of the Rock Island, 
 and of the Lake Shore & Michigan South- 
 ern Railroads. 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 
 Carriages are always to be found at 
 the railway-stations and steamboat-land- 
 ings, as well as at the hotels, livery-sta- 
 bles, and at the Court-House Square, the 
 rates of fare being established by law, 
 and cards stating the law being kept by 
 every driver, which must be shown on 
 demand. As is now customary in all 
 American cities, there arc lines of omni- 
 buses connecting with all trains, by which 
 passengers and their luggage are taken to 
 any part of the city at reasonable rates. 
 
 There are also lines of omnibuses run- 
 ning south on Wabash Avenue, west on 
 Washington and Adams Streets, and 
 north to Lincoln Park. 
 
 Horse Street Raihoays, which were first 
 introduced in 1858— '59, furnish the most 
 ready means of visiting the different parts 
 of the city. There are fourteen lines, 
 running in the three divisions of the city, 
 as follows: the South Division, five lines, 
 viz., the Cottage Grove, Indiana Avenue, 
 
 Archer Avenue, State Street to the Stock- 
 Yards, and a steam-dummy through the 
 South Park to Hyde Park ; in the West 
 Division, six lines, viz., Randolph Street, 
 Madison Street, Milwaukee Avenue, Hal- 
 sted and Blue Island Avenue, Van Buret) 
 Street, and Clinton Street; and in the 
 North Division four lines, viz., to city 
 limits, Chicago Avenue, Sedgwick Street, 
 and Clybourne Avenue. 
 
 The fact that the city is divided into 
 three sections by the Chicago River has 
 necessitated the building of numerous 
 bridges to facilitate intercommunication. 
 These are all draw-bridges, and are a 
 great obstacle alike to vessels, steamers, 
 riders, drivers, and pedestrians. To ves- 
 sels and steamers, when closed, they are 
 an insuperable barrier, and when open 
 they are the means of stopping all cross- 
 ing of the river. To obviate this diffi- 
 culty, it was determined to construct 
 
 under the river. 
 
 The first river-tunnel constructed in 
 this country was commenced at Washing- 
 ton Street, in Chicago, in July, 1867, and 
 completed in December, 1868, at a cost 
 of about $-100,000. The length of the 
 footway from end to end is 810 feet; but 
 the whole length of the roadway is three- 
 tenths of a mile. The diameter of the 
 tunnel is 19£ feet at the entrance, and in- 
 creases to 23|, 150 feet from the river 
 centre. There are ventilation-shafts 110 
 feet from the entrance, and lights at in- 
 tervals of 40 or 50 feet. There is a dou- 
 ble carriage-way throughout the struct- 
 ure, each road- way being 11 feet wide 
 and 15 feet high. It is now contemplated 
 to substitute tunnels for bridges at many 
 points along the river, but only one other 
 has yet been built : it connects the North 
 and South Divisions, on the line of La- 
 salle Street. 
 
 PARKS AND BOTJLEVAKDS. 
 
 Chicago has a most liberal area of free 
 pleasure-grounds, most of which are al- 
 ready improved. In 1869 the Legislature 
 authorized a grand system of parks and 
 11 
 
Takes, etc.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Lake-Tcnnels. 
 
 boulevards, which, when completed, will 
 have tio superior in the world. Jt con- 
 sists of a broad drive, two miles in Length, 
 along the northern lake-shore to Lincoln 
 Park, of 230 acres, very finely laid out. 
 Thence a drive, three and a half miles 
 long, due west, conneets with a boulevard 
 seven miles long, from north to south, on 
 which lie three parks : viz., Humboldt, 
 ( 'eniral, and Douglas, containing, in the 
 aggregate, 536 acres. These arc only 
 partially improved, but will well repay a 
 visit. From the southern end of this 
 boulevard another extends eastward to 
 the two South Parks, containing about 
 1,000 acres, which are laid out with good 
 taste, and are very attractive ; the most 
 southerly extends 1-ft niile along the 
 shore of the lake. Two boulevards run 
 thence, northward, to the well-paved 
 streets that connect with the business 
 portion of the city. The parks and 
 boulevards contain fully 33 miles of 
 drives, without counting the road-ways 
 around the parks. 
 
 Lincoln Park, on the lake-shore, in 
 the North Division, has already about 
 four miles of drives in its enclosure, 
 splendid trees, artificial hills and mounds, 
 miniature lakes and rivers, summer- 
 houses, rustic bridges and seats, shady 
 walks, and all the attractions that natu- 
 ral and artificial charms could give it. 
 On Saturday afternoons, in summer, when 
 a large orchestra gives open-air concerts 
 there, the scene is one of indescribable 
 life and brilliancy, the road-ways crowded 
 with carriages, and the paths thronged 
 with people. Lincoln Park is readily 
 accessible by the horse-cars, the stages, 
 and along the splendid Nicolson drives. 
 
 Union Park is located in the very cen- 
 tre of the residence portion of the West 
 Division ; it is equally accessible by the 
 .Madison and Randolph Street cars, by 
 the Washington-Street stages, or can be 
 reached on foot without fatigue. Though 
 only 17 acres in area, the judieious ex- 
 penditure of $100,000 on lakes, drives, 
 hills, pagodas, inner parks, zoological 
 gardens, and admirable landscape archi- 
 tecture, baa rendered its size apparently 
 much greater. There arc open-air con- 
 certs here every Wednesday evening in 
 summer, when it is even more crowded 
 than Lincoln Park. 
 12 
 
 Lake Park, on the south side, running 
 about a mile on the lake-shore, is unim- 
 proved itself, though ornamented by (he 
 elegant Michigan-Avenue residences, and 
 is a favorite resort of summer evenings, 
 and especially on Saturday evenings, 
 when the band plays. 
 
 There arc also Dearborn Park, Jefft r- 
 son Park, Grovdand Park, and Ogden 
 Park, and many smaller public plaees are 
 found in all divisions of the city. 
 
 THE LAKE-TUNNELS. 
 
 The tunnel under Lake Michigan, by 
 which the city is supplied with an abun- 
 dance of the purest water, is an object 
 of great interest, and has been described 
 as the eighth wonder of the world. The 
 Water -Works are situated on the lake- 
 shore, in the North Division, about one 
 mile north from the court-house, and may 
 be inspected on applieation to Mr. Oregier, 
 the engineer in charge. They comprise 
 a water-tower, 130 feet high, up which 
 the water is forced by four engines, hav- 
 ing a pumping capacity of 71,000,000 
 gallons daily, and flows thence through 
 the street pipes to every part of the city. 
 A very fine view of the city and sur- 
 roundings may be obtained from the top 
 of this tower, which is reached by a spiral 
 staircase. From this tower a tunnel ex- 
 tends out to a distance of two miles under 
 the lake, at right angles with the shore. 
 This tunnel is nearly circular in form, the 
 bore being 02 inches high, and GO inches 
 wide. It is formed of brick masonry, ,S 
 inches thick, bedded into the clay, and 
 required about 4,000,000 bricks to con- 
 struct it. The bottom of the tunnel is 06 
 feet, below the lake-surface at the lake 
 end, and descends four feet on the two 
 miles of dip toward the shore. The hike 
 terminus of this tunnel, known as " The 
 Crib," is visited by pleasure-tugs almost 
 daily during the fine weather of summer, 
 giving the tourist an opportunity of in- 
 specting it. The crib at lirst consisted 
 of an iron shaft, surrounded by a pentag- 
 onal structure of logs, containing 600,000 
 feet of timber, and 2,000 bolts. This is 
 now being filled in with solid masonry, OB 
 which a light-house will lie built in 1874 
 or 1875, which, in addition to the ordinary 
 lantern, will display signals when storms 
 
Lake-Tcnhels.] NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE I. 
 
 [Seminaries. 
 
 are indicated by the observations of the 
 United States Signal-Service Corps. The 
 tunnel was commenced on the lYth of 
 March, 1864, and completed December 
 6, 1866, but the water was not supplied 
 to the city through it till March 25th, fol- 
 lowing. The contract price for the tun- 
 nel alone was $315,139. 
 
 Another tunnel was commenced in the 
 summer of 1873, with an internal diam- 
 eter of seven feet, which will connect the 
 Crib with the present pumping- works, 
 and thence extend underground to the 
 southwestern part of the city, having a 
 total length of about six miles. The 
 land terminus will have an independent 
 pumping- works to supply that part of 
 the city with water. The contract price 
 of the second tunnel is about $400,000. 
 When completed, the total cost of the 
 water system of Chicago will foot up to 
 fully $6,000,000. 
 
 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST. 
 
 The Douglas Monument occupies a site 
 formerly owned by Mr. Douglas himself. 
 The tract, one acre in extent, was pur- 
 chased from Mrs. Douglas for the sum of 
 $30,000. The monument consists of a 
 circular base, 52 feet in diameter, a pedes- 
 tal, 21 feet high, and column of 43 feet, 
 surmounted by a sphere, upon which a 
 bronze statue of Douglas, 12 feet high, 
 is to be placed. The entire height of the 
 monument, when completed, will be 100 
 feet, and the cost $15,000. 
 
 The Artesian Wells of Chicago are a 
 very interesting feature. The first sunk 
 are situated at the intersection of Chica- 
 go and Western Avenues, and are easily 
 reached by the cars on West-Randolph 
 Street. They consist of two, respectively 
 911 and 694 feet deep, and flow about 
 1,200,000 gallons daily. It is noteworthy 
 that they were sunk in 1864 under the 
 direction of a medium who prophesied 
 that oil would be found there — and proph- 
 esied falsely. Since then nearly forty 
 other artesian wells have been sunk in 
 Chicago, with uniform success. The 
 Stock-Yards, the west-side parks, one dis- 
 tillery, and several other establishments, 
 are supplied with water from these wells. 
 
 The Union Slock- Yards embrace 345 
 acres, laid out in streets and avenues, 
 
 and provided with an abundant supply 
 of water, and every thing needful in the 
 receiving and tending of stock. Nine of 
 the railways terminating in Chicago find 
 a common centre here: 15,000,000 feet 
 of lumber were used in constructing the 
 flooring and pens, and the whole cost 
 of construction thus far has reached 
 $1,000,000. There is a large and hand- 
 some brick hotel connected with the 
 yards. There is a national bank, known 
 as the Stock -Yards Bank, which has its 
 place in the clearing-house of the city. 
 The Stock-Yards Board of Trade has 150 
 members, and there are about 1,500 dro 
 vers and operators on the grounds daily. 
 Quite a large town — of some 4,000 people 
 — has sprung up in the immediate vicin- 
 ity, with post - olflce, telegraph - office, 
 churches, schools, etc. The scene is very 
 animated and interesting during the day. 
 
 Dexter Park racing-course is located 
 here, with splendid running and trotting 
 tracks, stands, and good accommodations. 
 The Shooting-Club, also, has its park here, 
 amd, in the season, keeps about 25,000 
 pigeons in cages, and houses for practice 
 and matches. 
 
 The Stock -Yards and the park are 
 readily reached by drives, or by steam 
 and horse cars. 
 
 The Grain Elevators are also a very 
 interesting feature, and should be visited 
 by those who want to obtain an idea of 
 the way in which the immense grain- 
 trade of Chicago is handled. There are 
 fifteen of these buildings, all situated on 
 the banks of the river, and connected 
 with the railroads by side-tracks. They 
 have an aggregate storage capacity of 
 12,800,000 bushels, and receive or dis- 
 charge grain with almost incredible dis- 
 patch, by the aid of machinery, without 
 the use of sacks. 
 
 EDUCATIONAL and literary insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 The University of Chicago should be 
 visited, if the traveller have time. It was 
 founded by the late Senator Douglas, and 
 was first opened for instruction in 1S58. 
 It occupies a beautiful site, overlooking 
 Lake Michigan, at Cottage Grove, four 
 miles south of the Court-House, and is 
 readily reached by the State-Street cars. 
 13 
 
Seminaries, etc.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [SUBURBS 
 
 The main, central building, 136 by 172 
 
 feet, was completed in 18t56, at a cost of 
 $110,000. The south wing has recently 
 been added. When the edifice is finished, 
 it will be one of the most commodious and 
 elegant buildings in the West. 
 
 The Dearborn Observatory (tower), 
 which adjoins the University on the 
 west, contains the Clarke telescope, which 
 is one of the largest and best-constructed 
 instruments in the country. The object- 
 glass has a focal length of 23 feet. 
 
 The Chicago Theological Seminary is 
 one of the most noteworthy institutions 
 of the city. The building stands on the 
 west side of Union Square, at the inter- 
 section of Reuben and Warren Streets. 
 It has a frontage on the park, and is in 
 the Norman style of architecture. It 
 contains a chapel, library, and lecture- 
 rooms. The cost was about $100,000. 
 
 The Baptist Theological Seminary has 
 a large and fine building in the rear of 
 the University of Chicago. 
 
 The Presbyterian Theological Seminary, 
 founded in 1859, has a fine building, re- 
 cently erected at the corner of Fullerton 
 Avenue and Halsted Street. It is five sto- 
 ries high, and contains a fine library. 
 
 Chicago also contains four medical col- 
 leges, the most noteworthy of which is 
 the Rush Medical College, founded in 1S42, 
 and with a new and handsome building 
 located at the corner of North Dearborn 
 and Indiana Streets — the Chicago Medical 
 College has now a large building on the 
 corner of Prairie Avenue and Twenty- 
 sixth Street, the Bcnnet (Eclectic), at 
 4<il Clark Street, and the Hahnemann 
 (Homoeopathic) College is located on the 
 comer of Cottage Grove Avenue and 
 Twenty-eighth Street — 2 Commercial Col- 
 leges, 32 Roman Catholic convents and 
 schools, and 31 public schools. 
 
 Among the purely literary and scien- 
 tific institutions, the Academy of Sciences 
 and the Historical Society were the most 
 prominent. Doth buildings were burned 
 to the ground. The Academy has just 
 finished a new structure on the old site, 
 on Wabash Avenue, near Van Buren 
 Street, and is hard at work in gathering 
 a collection to take the place of the 
 38,000 specimens in the several depart- 
 ments of natural history, which, with a 
 fine library, were totally destroyed in Oc- 
 14 
 
 tober, 1871. The Historical Society has 
 not been revived, and possibly will not 
 be for some years to come. It owned a 
 large and very valuable collection of 
 books, manuscripts, and war-relics. 
 
 CHARITABLE AND BENEVOLENT INSTI- 
 TUTIONS. 
 
 The Cook County Hospital, erected in 
 185G, is on the corner of Eighteenth and 
 Arnold Streets; the Magdalen Asylum is 
 on North Market Street ; the Protestant 
 Orphan Asylum is at the corner of Michi- 
 gan Avenue and Twenty-second Street ; 
 the Home for the Friendless is at 911 
 Wabash Avenue, and St. Joseph's (male) 
 and St. Mary's (female) Orphan Asylums 
 are located on North State, corner of Su- 
 perior. The two last-named institutions 
 are under the charge of the Sisters of 
 Mercy. A new Marine Hospital, one of 
 the largest and most costly in the coun- 
 try, is about finished at Lake View, a lit- 
 tle beyond Lincoln Park. Merry Hospital" 
 corner of Calumet Avenue and Twcnty> 
 eighth Street, is an immense institution- 
 well worth visiting. 
 
 CEMETERIES. 
 
 Of the cemeteries, Graceland, Pose-hill 
 and Calvary, in the North Division, are 
 the most interesting. The last two aro 
 on the line of the Chicago & Milwaukee 
 Railway. OakiBood, on Vincenncs Road, 
 three miles south of the southern limits, 
 is .also- a very pretty rural spot. This 
 cemetery can be reached by horse-cars 
 and dummy, or by a pleasant drive 
 through the boulevards. 
 
 SUBURBS AND VICINITY. 
 
 Chicago will in a few years be as fa- 
 mous for its suburbs as Boston. It has 
 already about 40 towns which may be 
 regarded as suburban, with their frequent 
 special trains and their population com- 
 posed exclusively of Chicago business- 
 men and their families. This population 
 in the aggregate reaches a figure of nearly 
 100,000. Any one of these suburban 
 towns may be visited in a day. and the 
 arrangement of the trains is such that two 
 or three of them mav be taken in a sin- 
 
Suburbs.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE II. [Erie Railway. 
 
 gle excursion by tourists who find a pleas- 
 ure in passing their time in this way. 
 
 The immediate suburbs are very charm- 
 ing. On the south side are Oroveland 
 Park, Vincennes Road, and Hyde Park, 
 all of which may be included in a single 
 drive. A large hotel will be found in the 
 latter place. On the west side, Riverside 
 is the most notable, and, though 13 miles 
 from the city, it is connected directly by 
 a boulevard, and will repay the visit with 
 its beautiful natural scenery, the splendid 
 roads, parks, and other costly improve- 
 ments, that will be found there. There is 
 also a hotel here. Lake View, on the 
 north side, will be found to contain many 
 handsome residences, grounds, and gar- 
 dens. These places may all be reached 
 by railroad as well as by carriage. 
 
 Of the more remote suburbs, those 
 most worthy of a visit are Lake Forest, 
 Evanston, and Harlem, particularly the 
 former. It is located on the Milhvaukee 
 division of the Chicago & Northwestern 
 Railroad, about 28 miles from Chicago. 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 NEW YORE TO CHICAGO. 
 
 Via Erie and Lake Shore c& Michigan South- 
 ern Railways. {Time, 34 hrs.—Fare, $22.) 
 
 Stations on Erie Railway. — New 
 York — Jersey City, one mile from New 
 York ; Patcrson (Junction of Newark 
 Branch), IV ; Suffern, 32 ; Ramapo, 34 ; 
 Newburg Junction (Junction of New- 
 burg Branch), 46 ; Turner's, 48 ; Grey- 
 court (Junction of Warwick and New- 
 burg Branches), 54 ; Goshen (Junction 
 of Montgomery Branch), 60 ; Middletown 
 (Junction of Unionville Branch), 6V ; 
 Port Jervis, 88 ; Lackawaxen (Junction 
 of Ilawlcy Branch), 111 ; Narrowsburg, 
 123; Deposit, 177; Susquehanna, 193; 
 Great Bend, 201 ; Binghamton (Junction 
 of Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western, 
 Syracuse and Binghamton, and Albany 
 and Susquehanna Railways), 215 ; Owego 
 (Junction of Cayuga Division of Dela- 
 ware, Lackawanna and Western Rail- 
 way), 237 ; Waverly (Junction of Lehigh 
 Valley Railway), 256 ; Elmira (Junction 
 of Northern Central Railway), 274 ; 
 Corning (Junction of Rochester Division, 
 and Corning, Blossburg and Tioga Rail- 
 
 way), 291 ; Canisteo, 328 ; BTornellsville 
 (Junction of Buffalo Division), 332 ; 
 Olean, 395 ; Carrollton (Junction of Brad- 
 ford Branch), 408 ; Salamanca (Junction 
 of Atlantic and Great Western Division), 
 415; Dunkirk (connects with Lake 
 Shore Line), 460. 
 
 The Erie Railway is one of the noblest 
 triumphs of engineering skill and per- 
 severance to be seen in this country or in 
 any other. When first built, this road, 
 except at a few points, lay through an 
 almost unknown country — a country a3 
 fraught with wondering interest as tho 
 Adirondack region now is. Portions of 
 the line were considered impassable to 
 any other than a winged creature, yet 
 mountains were scaled or pierced, and 
 river cafions passed, by blasting a path 
 from the face of stupendous precipices ; 
 gorges of fearful depth were spanned by 
 daring bridges, and broad, deep valleys 
 crossed by massive viaducts. Villages 
 began to spring up along its line ; those 
 already existing expanded their bounds, 
 and some have become cities. It has 
 opened a way to market for the products 
 of the soil, and the mineral wealth hidden 
 in the mouutain-ranges that it traverses. 
 It threw out branches right and left, to 
 infuse the blood of commerce far and 
 wide, and is now one of the main arteries 
 of travel between the East and the 
 " Great West," though only completed 
 on the 15th of May, 1851. 
 
 In the State of New Jersey it passes 
 through the great manufacturing city of 
 Paterson, famed for the beautiful falls of 
 the JPassaic, and then at the distance of 
 31 miles from New-York City it crosses 
 the line near Suffcni's Station, and enters 
 into the State of New York, commencing 
 the ascent of the famous Ramapo Val- 
 ley. At Shatsburg the road passes near 
 Greenwood Lake, a noted summer re- 
 sort, around which are a number of little 
 lakes, each beautiful and attractive ; a 
 few miles farther, and one can find at 
 2wner , s a most picturesque view, and, 
 should he desire to stop, all the fishing 
 and boating he may desire. On ap- 
 proaching Otisville, the eye is attracted 
 by the bold flanks of the Shawangunk 
 Mountain, the passage of which great 
 barrier (once deemed almost insurmount- 
 able) is a miracle of engineering skill. A 
 15 
 
Erie Railway.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Eiue Railway. 
 
 mile beyond Otisville, after traversing an 
 ascending grade of 40 feet to the mile, 
 the road runs through a rock-cutting 50 
 feet deep and 2,500 feet long. This 
 passed, the summit of the ascent is 
 reached, and thence we go down the 
 mountain's side many sloping miles to the 
 valley beneath. The scenery along the 
 mountain-slope is grand and picturesque, 
 and the effect is not lessened by the bold 
 features of the landscape all around. In 
 the descent of the mountain the embank- 
 ment b securely supported by a wall 30 
 feet in height and 1,000 feet long. On- 
 ward the way increases in interest, until 
 it opens upon a glimpse, away over the 
 valley, of the mountain-spur, called the 
 Cuddeback ; and, at its base, the glitter- 
 ing water is seen now, for the first time, 
 of the Delaware and Hudson Canal. Eight 
 miles beyond Otisville we are imprisoned 
 in a deep cutting for nearly a mile, which 
 prepares us for the brilliant surprise 
 which awaits us. The dark passage 
 made, and yet another bold dash through 
 rocky cliffs, and there lies suddenly 
 spread before us, upon our right, the rich 
 and lovely valley and waters of the Never- 
 sink. Beyond, sweeps a chain of blue 
 hills, and at their feet, terraced high, 
 gleam the roofs and spires of the village 
 of Port Jervis ; while onward, to the 
 south, our eye first beholds the floods of 
 the Delaware, which is to be so great a 
 source of delight in our journey onward, 
 for nearly 90 long miles, to Deposit. 
 
 At Shohola we find ourselves among 
 some of the greatest engineering suc- 
 cesses of the Erie route, and some of its 
 chief pictorial charms. Here the road 
 lies on the mountain-side, several feet 
 above the river, along a mighty gallery, 
 supported by grand natural abutments of 
 jagged rock. Upon three miles along 
 this Shohola section of the road at least 
 $300,000 were expended. 
 
 At Deposit, 177 miles from Now York, 
 we bid good-by to the Delaware, which 
 we have followed so long, and prepare for 
 the ascent of a heavy grade over the high 
 mountain-ridge which separates it from 
 the lovely waters of the Susquehanna. 
 As the train descends into the valley there 
 seems no promise of the wonders which 
 are awaiting us, but they come suddenly, 
 and the view opens almost immediately at 
 10 
 
 the right — deep down upon the winding 
 Susquehanna, reaching afar off amid a 
 valley and hill picture of rare beauty, a 
 fitting prelude to the sweet river-scenes 
 we are soon to delight in. This first 
 glimpse of the Susquehanna is esteemed 
 one of the finest points of the varied 
 scenery of the Erie Railway route. It 
 may be looked at more leisurely by one 
 who tarries to explore the neighboring 
 scenery, and the valley of the Starrucca, 
 with its grand viaduct, which we are now 
 rapidly approaching. The Starrucca Via- 
 duct is one of the greatest engineering 
 achievements of the entire route. It is 
 1,200 feet in length and 110 feet high, and 
 has 18 grand arches, each 50 feet span. 
 The cost was $320,000. From the vicinity 
 of Susquehanna, the next station, the via- 
 duct itself makes a most effective feature 
 in the valley views. A little beyond the 
 viaduct, and just before we reach the 
 Susquehanna station, we cross a fine 
 trestle-bridge, 450 feet long, over the 
 Canneivacta Creek, at Lanesborough. We 
 are now fairly upon the Susquehanna, 
 not in the distance, but near its very 
 bank, and soon we reach the end of the 
 second grand division of our route, and 
 enter the depot of Susquehanna. 
 
 Two hundred and fifteen miles from 
 New York we find ourselves at the 
 flourishing city of Binghamton, the site 
 of the State Inebriate Asylum, an impor- 
 tant railroad centre, and surrounded by 
 the beautiful hilly and rolling country 
 through which we pass as far as Hornells- 
 ville, for we are now out of the moun- 
 tains. Twenty-one miles farther and we 
 come to Owego, a large and prosperous 
 place, and then to Elrnira, the most im- 
 portant city on the road. At Hornelh- 
 villewe reach the last and least interest- 
 ing division of the road, and soon after 
 commence to descend to the Lake Erie 
 level. At Dunkirk, 460 miles from New 
 York, we reach the junction with the Lake 
 Shore line, and leave the State of New 
 York, crossing the upper corner of Penn- 
 sylvania to Erie, an old, pleasant, and 
 important lake city, and the point at 
 which we begin our purely Western 
 Tour. 
 
 Note. — The portion of the route which 
 we have thus hastily sketched is elabo< 
 rately described in " Appletons' Hand- 
 
C0NNEANT.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE II. 
 
 [Cleveland. 
 
 Hook of American Travel — Northern 
 and Eastern Tour," to which the trav- 
 eller is referred for details.. For the con- 
 venience of the traveller we give below 
 the names of all stations between Buffalo 
 and Chicago, though only the more im- 
 portant will be described. 
 
 Stations on Lake Siiore Line. — Buffalo, 
 423 miles from New York via Buffalo and 
 Erie Railway ; Lake View, 15 miles from 
 Buffalo; Angola, 21; Irving, 29; Silver 
 Creek, 31 ; Dunkirk, 460 miles from New 
 York via main line, 40 miles from Buffalo ; 
 Westfield, 477 ; Riplev, 485 ; Northeast, 
 493; Erie, 508; Girard, 523; Conneant, 
 535 ; Kingsville, 543 ; Ashtabula, 549 ; 
 Geneva, 558 ; Madison, 563 ; Painesville, 
 574 ; Willoughby, 585 ; Cleveland, G03 ; 
 Berea, 616; Elyria, 628; Oberlin, 634; 
 Kipton, 641 ; Wakeman, 646 ; Norwalk, 
 658; Monroeville, 662; Bellevue, 670; 
 Clyde, 677 ; Fremont, 685 ; Elmore, 698 ; 
 Toledo, 715. 
 
 Michigan Southern Division. — Syl- 
 vania, 725 ; Palmyra, 742 ; Adrian, 747 ; 
 Hudson, 764 ; Hillsdale, 780 ; Jonesville, 
 785; Coldwater, 803; Burr Oak, 820; 
 Sturgis, 827 ; White Pigeon, 838 ; Bristol, 
 849 ; Wauseon, 747 ; Strvker, 761 ; Bryan, 
 769; Edgerton, 779; Brimfield, 811 ; Li- 
 gonier, 823; Goshen, 837 ; Elkhart, 857; 
 Mishawaka, 868 ; South Bend, 872 ; Car- 
 lisle, 885 ; La Porte, 899 ; Chesterton, 
 901 ; Englewood, 952 ; Chicago, 958. 
 
 Conneant, O. (535 miles), is the 
 first station in Ohio. It has a good 
 harbor, and is noted as the landing-place 
 of the party who made the first settlement 
 in Northwestern Ohio. 
 
 AsHii,a,l»sila 9 ©. (549 miles), is 
 a small place, and is only of commercial 
 importance as a lake port. 
 
 IPsainesvillo, O. (574 miles), is 
 charmingly situated on Grand River, 
 about three miles from Lake Erie, and 
 one hundred feet above the lake. It is 
 an attractive place, containing a beauti- 
 ful public park, some handsome build- 
 ings, a large female seminary, and the 
 works of the Geauga Furnace Company. 
 The valley through which the river runs 
 is deep and pictm-esque. The stone bridge 
 by which the railway crosses the river is 
 over 800 feet long. 
 
 Will©nglal»y9 O. (585 miles), is 
 
 a pleasant village, chiefly noted as the 
 seat of a small medical college and a large 
 female seminary. 
 
 Cleveland, ©. (603 miles), is the 
 second city in size in the State, and is 
 noted, not only for its large commercial 
 and manufacturing interests, but for its 
 extreme beauty. It was the first settle- 
 ment within the limits of Cuyahoga 
 County, in that part of Ohio which has 
 long been known as the Western Reserve, 
 It was laid out in October, 1796, and 
 named in honor of General Moses Cleve- 
 land, a native of Connecticut. Originally 
 the town was confined to the eastern 
 bank of the Cuyahoga, at its entrance 
 into Lake Erie, but subsequently Brook- 
 lyn, or Ohio City, sprang up on the oppo- 
 site side, and both parts are now united 
 under one corporation. The greater por- 
 tion of the city stands on a gravelly 
 plain, at an elevation of 200 feet above 
 Lake Erie. 
 
 Cleveland is remarkable for the width 
 of its streets. Many of its secondary 
 thoroughfares are 100 feet wide, and the 
 width of Superior Street is 132 feet. In 
 1866 Monumental Park, which lies in the 
 centre of the town, was, by act of coun- 
 cil, opened to the public. By this means, 
 Superior Street was extended in a straight 
 line entirely through the eastern portion 
 of the city, from east to west, for several 
 miles into the country, piercing Monu- 
 mental Park through its centre. On 
 either side of the street elm-trees are to 
 be set out, which, in time, will make it 
 one of the loveliest avenues imaginable. 
 Ontario Street cuts the park through 
 from north to south, so that what was 
 formerly quite a large park, has been re- 
 duced to four small plats. In the middle 
 stands the Monument to Commodore 
 Perry, cut from Italian marble, at a cost 
 of $8,000. It was designed and modelled 
 by William Walcott, and unveiled Sep- 
 tember 10, 1860. On the west side of 
 the river is another handsome park, 
 known as the Circle. 
 
 The Cuyahoga River forms a safe 
 though not very commodious harbor, 
 where it empties into Lake Erie. Fiers 
 on either side of the mouth of the river, 
 extending 425 yards into the lake, 200 
 feet apart, and faced with substantial 
 masonry, materially improve the harbor. 
 17 
 
Cleveland.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cleveland. 
 
 Owing to the elevated situation of the 
 city, travellers, on entering it, along the 
 loot of the bluff, form an unsatisfactory 
 and disagreeable impression of it. They 
 only see those portions devoted to busi- 
 ness interests, along the river-bottom or 
 lake-shore. It is only when they have 
 ascended into the city proper, and ridden 
 through its charming streets in car or 
 carriage, that they are able to form a just 
 opinion of it. The profusion of shade- 
 trees with which all its streets, except 
 those devoted exclusively to business, are 
 adorned, has given to Cleveland the title 
 of the "Forest City." Euclid Avenue, 
 lined with elegant residences, each sur- 
 rounded by ample grounds, is con- 
 sidered one of the handsomest on the 
 continent. Prospect Street is also very 
 beautiful. 
 
 The social and municipal institutions 
 of the city are in a highly creditable con- 
 dition. Especially are the churches 
 numerous, and the schools excellent. 
 Considering the admirable nature of the 
 school system itself, and the number and 
 beauty of the school edifices, Cleveland 
 is unexcelled by any city in the United 
 States. The First, Second, and Third 
 l'resbytcrian, and Trinity (Episcopal) 
 churches, and the Roman Catholic Cathe- 
 dral, are all fine structures. The Method- 
 ist Episcopal Society has purchased a lot 
 on the corner of Erie Street and Euclid 
 Avenue, upon which it will erect a mag- 
 nificent church ; it has already completed 
 a fine chapel in the rear of the lot. 
 
 Among the notable public buildings 
 are the Cleveland Medical College ("old 
 school "), established about the year 1843, 
 an imposing structure, on the corner 
 of Eric and St. Clair Streets ; and the 
 Marine Hospital, on the bank of the 
 lake, near the college. 
 
 The Water- Works stand near the 
 lake, west of the river, and, by means 
 of two splendid and massive engines, 
 force lake-water into an enormous reser- 
 voir, occupying the highest point of 
 ground on the west side, from which it is 
 distributed all over the city. 
 
 The Union Railway Depot was built 
 by the Lake Shore, Cleveland & I'itts- 
 h'lri/, Cleveland <£• Toledo, and Cleve- 
 land <(• Cincinnati Railways in 18(5(5, 
 under the direct supervision of Mr. 
 18 
 
 Amasa Stone, president of the Lake 
 Shore road. It is a massive stone build- 
 ing — one of the largest of its kind in the 
 world — with a bas-relief portrait of Mr. 
 Stone, on the key-stone, over the main 
 entrance, and similar portraits of Grant 
 and Lincoln, besides various symbolical 
 designs upon key-stones at either end of 
 the building. 
 
 Case Hall, a beautiful edifice, near the 
 park, was begun by Mr. William Case, 
 and completed by his brother, Leonard 
 Case — after the death of the former — in 
 1866. It contains, besides the rooms of 
 the Cleveland Library Association, and 
 numerous offices and stores, an elegant- 
 ly-appointed hall, capable of seating 1,500 
 people. 
 
 The Charity Hospital, on Perry Street, 
 was built with the contributions of Ro- 
 man Catholics and Protestants, mostly 
 solicited by Bishop Rappe (Roman Catho- 
 lic). The House of Correction, on the 
 eastern outskirts of the city, is a large 
 and splendid building, for the confine- 
 ment and utilizing of city offenders. 
 The Homeopathic Charity Hospital, on 
 University Heights, was formerly Humis- 
 ton's Institute. 
 
 Cleveland has two beautiful cemeteries : 
 the old one, on Erie Street, and Wood- 
 lawn Cemetery, on the eastern boundaries 
 of the city. The latter is rich in monu- 
 ments and statuary. Still another has 
 been laid out, five miles from town, on 
 Euclid Avenue, consisting of a beautiful 
 tract of 300 acres, 250 feet above the 
 level of the lake. It was opened for the 
 sale of lots on June 23, 1870. The 
 wealthiest men in Cleveland are among 
 the directors. 
 
 The Cleveland Library Association has 
 a library and reading-room in Case Hall. 
 The library contains 30,000 volumes. 
 Early in 1870 the society received a 
 gift of $25,000 from Mr. Leonard 
 Case. It is intended to change, at an 
 early day, the character of this instil u- 
 tion, giving it a higher grade, at the ex- 
 pense, to a great extent, of its popularity ; 
 the idea being to make it more than now 
 a dependence of scholars, and persons of 
 cultivated taste3 in literature. 
 
 In February, 1869, the Cleveland 
 Public Library was opened. It is a 
 fire, popular library, containing 8,500 
 
Cleveland.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE II. 
 
 [Toledo. 
 
 volumes, and is supported by an annual 
 tax upon the citizens of one-tenth of a 
 mill, which produced, in 1870, a revenue 
 of $4,000. 
 
 Independent of its large and increas- 
 ing business by railway and canal, Cleve- 
 land carries on a very considerable and 
 important trade with the lake country, 
 more particularly with the mining region 
 of Lake Superior. Eight transportation 
 lines are connected with the port, giving 
 daily steamboat and propeller communi- 
 cation with every important point on the 
 chain of lakes. This is one of the best 
 points of departure for tourist travel to 
 the Lake Superior region. Cleveland has 
 also attained eminence as a ship-building 
 port ; several of its barks, built for the 
 Liverpool trade, have excited much ad- 
 miration in England. 
 
 Up to about 1860, the commercial in- 
 teres ts of Cleveland were chiefly confined 
 to a canal and lake traffic. Suddenly 
 manufacturing enterprises began to be 
 developed, particularly in the direction 
 of iron and coal-oil manufactories, which 
 are now very heavy interests, and con- 
 stantly increasing in importance. 
 
 In the manufacture of refined petro- 
 leum, Cleveland is second to no city in 
 the United States, unless, perhaps, it be 
 Pittsburg. 
 
 There are also important manufactories 
 of sulphuric acid, wooden ware, agricul- 
 tural implements, marble and stone, rail- 
 road cars, grindstones, and white lead. 
 
 The lumber-trade of Cleveland is also 
 very important. 
 
 Some idea of the commerce of Cleve- 
 land may be obtained from the statement 
 that the estimated value of the lake, ca- 
 nal, and rail traffic, of 1868, was $865,000,- 
 000, and that the showing for 18*70 was 
 in excess of that sum. 
 
 The first street railroad was opened in 
 1860 ; now, the city has four different lines, 
 which do an immense business. 
 
 The Academy of Music, on Bank Street, 
 is the only place where dramatic enter- 
 tainments are given. 
 
 The best hotels are the Kennard (for- 
 merly Angier), Weddell, and American 
 /louse. There are numerous second and 
 third class houses ; several of the former 
 are well kept. 
 
 Besides the hospitals already enumer- 
 
 ated, are the Wilson Street Hospital, and 
 the Perry Street Retreat for Fallen 
 Women. 
 
 The Cleveland Female Seminary, on 
 Woodland Avenue, has an enviable repu- 
 tation among institutions of its class. 
 
 In order to obviate occasional foldings 
 of the lake-water, pumped through the 
 supply-pipe of the water-works, into the 
 reservoir, a tunnel, extending under the 
 lake several hundred feet farther than 
 the extreme point of the present pipe, 
 has been built in order to secure a constant 
 supply of pure water. It was completed 
 in 1873, and the cost of the tunnel and 
 crib together was $166,504. The popula- 
 tion of Cleveland, by the census of 1870, 
 was 93,000. 
 
 BSly risi, O. (628 miles), is a pleasant 
 village, at the forks of the Black River, 
 which at this point has two vertical falls 
 of 40 feet, affording a fine water-power, 
 which is utilized by a number of manu- 
 factories. The scenery in the vicinity is 
 attractive. 
 
 01>ci*lim, €>. (628 miles), is noted 
 for its college, from which no person is 
 excluded on account either of sex or 
 color. This college, founded in 1834, 
 combines manual labor with study, in- 
 culcates entire social equality between 
 whites and blacks, and has had a very 
 prosperous career. 
 
 Uforwallc, ©. (658 miles), is a very 
 handsome, well-built village. Its princi- 
 pal street, which is shaded by fine maple- 
 trees, extends along a ridge. The village 
 contains the Norwalk Institute, Norwalk 
 Female Seminary, and other good schools. 
 
 Toledo, O. (715 miles), is an im- 
 portant point, and, within a few years, 
 has developed from an inconsiderable 
 village into a large and rapidly-growing 
 city. In 1850, the population was 3,820; 
 in 1860, 13,768 ; and in 1870, 31,693. 
 
 Situated on the Maumee River, 4 miles 
 from a broad and beautiful bay, and 12 
 miles from Lake Erie, Toledo has always 
 been looked upon as an important lake- 
 port, but, owing to the sparse population 
 around it, together with the impression 
 that it was uohealthy, its development 
 was slow until ibout 1860, since which 
 time its growth has been marvellously 
 rapid. The enterprise and liberality of 
 the business-men of Toledo have made 
 19 
 
Toledo.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Adrian. 
 
 it a great railroad and commercial cen- 
 tre. In 1858, the imports of Toledo 
 amounted to $31,700,085, and the ex- 
 ports to $35,460,031 ; in 1869, the im- 
 ports were valued at $182,360,700, and 
 the exports at $198,723,432. The ag- 
 gregate grain movement at Toledo, in 
 1869, was 18,060,949 bushels, exclusive 
 of receipts, aggregating 2,789,540 that 
 did not go into elevator. During 1869 
 there were erected 667 buildings, at a cost 
 of $1,377,600. The aggregate business of 
 the commission and jobbing-houses (then 
 transacting a business in excess of $50,000 
 per annum) was $44,810,252. 
 
 The handsomest buildings in Toledo 
 are those devoted to educational pur- 
 poses and religion. There are six ward- 
 school buildings, of brick, which cost 
 from $20,000 to $30,000, and a central 
 or high-school building — one of the first 
 in the State — which cost, probably, 
 $60,000. Of churches, there are : Meth- 
 odist Episcopal, 4 ; Baptist, 3 ; Congre- 
 gational, 2 ; Presbyterian, 3 ; Free Meth- 
 odist, 1 ; Protestant Episcopal, 2 ; Roman 
 Catholic, 6 ; Lutheran, 2 ; German Re- 
 formed, 1. 
 
 Manufactories are numerous and im- 
 portant, including 2 car factories — that 
 owned by the Toledo, Wabash & Western 
 Railway Company being one of the most 
 extensive in the country ; Manhattan iron- 
 works ; 3 steam-engine manufactories ; 
 agricultural-implement factory ; 4 sash, 
 blind, and door factories ; 1 rake-fac- 
 tory ; 2 saw and file-factories ; 5 brew- 
 erics ; 4 flouring mills ; 4 manufactories 
 of carriages, and carriage fixtures, and 
 numerous smaller establishments. 
 
 Of railroads, there are seven: Michi- 
 gan Div. of the Lake Shore & Michigan 
 Southern Railway, 243 miles in length — 
 to Chicago; Air-Line, 127 miles ; Jackson 
 Branch, 65 miles; Toledo & Detroit, 65 
 miles; Dayton & Michigan, and Cincin- 
 nati, Hamilton, & Dayton, 202 miles ; To- 
 ledo Div. Jjake Shore & Michigan South- 
 ern, 112 miles ; Toledo, Wabash & Western, 
 490 miles. 
 
 Hotels. — The largest hotels are : Oli- 
 ver House, Island Souse, American, and 
 St. Charles. 
 
 Grain Elevators. — Toledo has 8 grain 
 elevators, the smallest of which has a 
 storage capacity of 125,000 bushels, and 
 20 
 
 the largest, of 701,000 bushels ; aggregate 
 storage capacity of 2,. r >7^.nou bushels, 
 and a capacity to receive ami ship daily, 
 400,000 bushels. Another elevator, of 
 iron, was built in 1870. 
 
 At Toledo the road branches, one di- 
 vision running through Southern Michi- 
 gan, and known as the Michigan Soul/urn 
 Division, the other running through Indi- 
 ana, and known as the Air-Line. We 
 will consider these branches in the order 
 we have mentioned them, repeating the 
 names of the stations for the convenience 
 of the reader. 
 
 Michigan Southern Division. — Sta- 
 tions : Sylvania, 725 ; Palmyra, 742 ; 
 Adrian, 747 ; Hudson, 764 ; Hillsdale, 
 780 ; Jonesville, 785 ; Quincy; 794 ; Cold- 
 water, 803 ; Burr Oak, 820 ; Sturgis, 827 ; 
 White Pigeon, 838 ; Bristol, 849 ; Elk- 
 hart, 857. 
 
 Adrian, jv2£«*1i. (747 miles), is 
 the metropolis of Southern Michigan, and 
 in 1860 was the third city in size in the 
 State, and is at present the fifth. It has 
 a small water-power, which is applied to 
 manufacturing purposes. Many of the 
 stores are large and handsome ; there are 
 several beautiful churches, and many 
 large and elegant houses ; the streets are 
 well shaded. The Lawrence Hotel is a 
 capital house. 
 
 Upon the 4th of July, 1870, a monu- 
 ment to the soldiers from Adrian, who lost 
 their lives during the war for the Union, 
 was dedicated. The monument is situ- 
 atsd about midway between the depot 
 grounds and the post-office, upon what is 
 known as Monument Square, a fine little 
 park of three acres. It consists of an 
 octagonal base, 15 feet in diameter, and 
 20 feet in height, a marble shaft 3 feet 9 
 inches in diameter, and 27 feet high, sur- 
 mounted by an urn 7 feet in height — 
 making the monument 54 feet in height. 
 The base and urn are made from Amherst 
 sandstone, and the marble shaft was con- 
 tributed by the United States authorities 
 at Washington, it being one of the pillars 
 of the old Government bank at Phila- 
 delphia. The monument bears the fol- 
 lowing inscription : 
 
 '■Wt. 
 "Erected by the ciiiz.-ns of Adrian in memory of 
 
 our fallen soldiers. 
 
 "By such as these was our Union saved in the 
 
 great struggle in 'Ol-'Go." 
 
Hudson.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE II. 
 
 [BUTLEO. 
 
 Above the mottoes on the panels of 
 the base are inscribed the names of 77 
 soldiers from the city who fell during the 
 war. 
 
 There is a handsome college in the 
 western part of the town ; and the central 
 Union school building, the finest in the 
 West. 
 
 The railway repair-shops for this divi- 
 sion are located here. 
 
 Branch roads to Detroit and Jackson 
 diverge here. 
 
 Bffutisom, Midi. (764 miles), is 
 an active, thriving village on Tiffin's River, 
 possessing no attraction for the tourist. 
 
 Hillsdale, Mich. (780 miles), 
 is a place of about 2,000 inhabitants, 
 situated upon the St. Joseph's River. It 
 is the county-scat, and contains several 
 large stores, mills, etc., besides the stone 
 Court-House, several churches, and some 
 handsome dwellings. It also contains a 
 collegiate institution of some local re- 
 pute, though not ranked as a first-class 
 college. 
 
 o&omesville, Midi. (785 miles), 
 is the oldest village in Hillsdale County, 
 and is a prosperous place. It is noted 
 for having one of the best Union schools 
 in the State. The Wavcrley Mouse is well 
 kept. 
 
 The Fort Wayne, Jackson & Saginaw 
 Railway intersects at this point. 
 
 Colilwater, Midi. (803 miles), 
 upon the river of the same name, is the 
 commercial centre of a fine section of 
 country. It 'is large, prosperous, and at- 
 tractive. The river affords a good water- 
 power. It is the capital of Branch 
 County. The Michigan Southern is a good 
 hotel. 
 
 StBipgas, Midi. (827 miles), is a 
 flourishing village of perhaps 1,000 in- 
 habitants, situated on a beautiful prairie 
 of the same name. The Grand Rapids 
 d' Northern Indiana Railway crosses 
 here. 
 
 "WBaite lPigeoM, Midi. (838 
 miles), is another prosperous place, in the 
 midst of a fine prairie and farming dis- 
 trict. The St. Joseph's Valley Railway 
 diverges here. 
 
 Bristol, Sn«3. (849 miles), is very 
 pleasantly situated on the St. Joseph's 
 River. It is a thriving village. 
 
 Elitliart, Inta. (857 miles), at 
 
 the junction of the Elkhart and St. Jo- 
 seph Rivers, is a place of over 3,300 in- 
 habitants, possesses a fine water-power, 
 and is one of the principal shipping 
 points for Elkhart County. The Air- 
 Line and Michigan Southern Branches of 
 the road unite at this point. 
 
 The Railroad Eating-House and Hotel, 
 at the depot, is a good house. There is 
 a handsome school-building and many 
 fine residences. The railroad company 
 has extensive shops at this place, for 
 manufacturing and repairing locomotives, 
 cars, etc. 
 
 AIR-LINE. 
 
 Stations. — Delta, 708; Wauseon, 715; 
 Stryker, 761 ; Bryan, 769 ; Edgerton, 
 779 ; Butler, 786 ; Waterloo, 793 ; Ken- 
 dallville, 807; Ligonier, 823; Goshen, 
 837 ; Elkhart, 857. 
 
 Wanseoii, O. (715 miles), one 
 of the liveliest villages in Northwestern 
 Ohio, is 32 miles west of Toledo, on the 
 air-line. It is the capital of Fulton 
 County, and has a handsome court-house, 
 academy, etc. Population 2,000. Good 
 hotel accommodations. 
 
 Sryiasa, €>. (769 miles), is an old 
 village, the capital of Williams County. It 
 has two newspapers, a collegiate school, 
 county buildings, etc. ; population, 3,000. 
 It is celebrated for its artesian well, from 
 which fish that have no eyes are some- 
 times ejected. Bryan has two good 
 hotels, an extensive tannery, and a large 
 machine-shop. 
 
 E«8gertoii, O. (779 miles), is a 
 handsome but small village, with a popu- 
 lation of 1,200. It is located on the Lit- 
 tle St. Joseph's River, a beautiful stream 
 that rises only 18 miles from Lake Erie 
 and flows southward over 100 miles to 
 Fort Wayne, where it joins the Maumee, 
 which flows thence to Toledo, emptying 
 into the lake 20 miles from the source of 
 the St. Joseph. 
 
 Between this station and Wauseon the 
 Air-line passes through some finely-undu- 
 lating, well-watered, and heavily-timbered 
 country. 
 
 llutlcr, laasl. (786 miles), is at 
 
 the junction of the proposed Detroit <fc 
 
 Eel River Railway ; population, 1,200. It 
 
 has a handsome school-building and 
 
 21 
 
Waterloo.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [La Porte. 
 
 several churches, a machine-shop, a 
 carriage-manufactory, and extensive, stave 
 and cooper works ; also woollen-mills and 
 flouring-mills. The name of the place 
 was formerly Jarvis or Varristown. 
 
 Waterloo, Ind. (793 miles), is 
 a rapidly-growing village of 1,500 popula- 
 tion. It is in one of the finest wheat dis- 
 tricts in the West, and its Star Mill is one 
 of the largest and finest flouring-mills in 
 the State. Near here are the famous 
 sink-holes or underground lakes ; one of 
 which the Air-line crosses, and into which 
 immense quantities of earth, trees, and 
 old tics, were thrown before the track 
 could be made permanent, so that for 
 over ten years the track ran around the 
 sink. The Air-line Sink-hole is 3 miles 
 west of Waterloo, and is about 500 feet 
 across. Here is the crossing of the Fort 
 Wayne, Jackson & Saginaw Hallway. 
 
 Lent's Hotel and Eagle Hotel arc both 
 good houses. 
 
 Several beautiful lakes lie to the north 
 of the station, and Clear Lake is a fine 
 summer resort. 
 
 Mcnd.illvillc, Ind. (807 miles), 
 is the largest town in Northeastern 
 Indiana on the Air-line; population 3,000. 
 The Tremont House is a first-class hotel. 
 
 A beautiful and very deep lake, one 
 mile long, lies on the cast side, and a 
 smaller lake on the west. The Grand 
 Rapids & Northern Indiana Railway 
 crosses here ; and the place is essentially 
 a railroad town. There is a national 
 bank, nine churches, and a splendid 
 school-house. 
 
 The village is surrounded by a fine 
 rolling country ; and a few miles north of 
 it are the celebrated Hoosier Jean Wool- 
 len works and Rome City water-power. 
 Keudallville is the headquarters of the 
 Tenth Congressional District, and most 
 of the conventions are held here. 
 
 ILigfonier, Bcid. (823 miles), is a 
 town of about 1,500 inhabitants. It has 
 a fine school-building and several 
 churches. 
 
 Afirr's Block is the largest store-build- 
 ing between Chicago and Toledo. 
 
 The 1L Inn r House is well kept. 
 
 A. beautiful river flows past the town, 
 
 and the Air-line crosses the same stream 
 
 at several points between Ligonier and 
 
 Keudallville. The Haw-Patch Prairie, 
 
 22 
 
 north of this station, is considered one of 
 the finest grain-growing districts in the 
 West. 
 
 Qosncn,, Usui. (837 miles), is the 
 capital of Elkhart County, and is beauti- 
 fully situated on the right bank of Elk- 
 hart River, which furnishes a fine water- 
 power for a number of mills and shops. 
 It contains about 4,000 inhabitants, and 
 is the junction of the Warsaw branch of 
 the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. 
 The Court-IIouse is well built, and there 
 are many handsome suburban residences. 
 The surrounding country aflbrds the best 
 of roads, and consequently is a natural 
 driving park. The Julian House is gener- 
 ally considered the best hotel. 
 
 EakBiiirt, Ind. (857 miles). (See 
 page 21.) 
 
 Mlshnwafea, Ind. (868 miles), 
 on the St. Joseph's River, is surrounded 
 by a rich agricultural country, possesses 
 an excellent water-power, and has a fine 
 public school-building. The works of the 
 St. Joseph Iron Company are situated 
 here. There is an abundance of iron-ore 
 in the vicinity. The river is navigable 
 for small steamboats. The Milburn 
 House is considered the best hotel. Pop- 
 ulation 4,000. A railway is projected 
 which will intersect the Lake Shore & 
 Michigan Southern Railway. 
 
 Sontii Bend, flaad. (872 miles), 
 the capital of St. Joseph County, is pleas- 
 antly situated at the head of navigation 
 on the St. Joseph River, which by means 
 of a dam at this point furnishes an im- 
 mense water-power for numerous mills, 
 etc. There are a number of churches in 
 the village, which is also the site of Notre 
 Dame College — a Roman Catholic insti- 
 tution of considerable note. Population 
 8,000. The St. Joseph is a first-class 
 house. 
 
 fci» Porte, Ind. (899 miles), is 
 on the edge of the prairie of the same 
 name, and is surrounded by an exceed- 
 ingly rich agricultural country. It is at 
 the junction of a railway extending to 
 Plymouth on the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne 
 & Chicago Railway, and to Peru, the 
 junction of the Indianapolis, Peru & Chi- 
 cago, and the Toledo, Wabash & Western 
 Railways. The Indiana Medical College 
 is located here ; population about 8,000, 
 The best hotel is the Tccgardcn House 
 
Stations.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE III. 
 
 [Cantos. 
 
 CSiicag-o, 111. 058 miles). (See 
 page G.) 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 XEW YORK TO CHICAGO. 
 Via Allentoicn Line, which includes the Cen- 
 tral Railway of A r ew Jersey, Lebanon Val- 
 ley, Pennsylvania Central, and Pittsburg, 
 Fort Way lie <& Chicago Railways. {Time, 
 86 hrs.—Fare, $22.) 
 
 As far as Pittsburg, this route has 
 been elaborately described in "Applet ons' 
 Hank-Book of American Travel — 
 Northern and Eastern Tour," and we 
 shall therefore make here but the most 
 general allusions to it. 
 
 Leaving New York, the traveller crosses 
 the Hudson River, and, taking the cars 
 of the Central Railway of New Jersey, 
 at Jersey City, is whirled through Eliza- 
 beth, Plainfield, Somerville, and other 
 flourishing places ; is afforded a glimpse 
 of the mountain-region of New Jersey, 
 and is finally landed at Easton, Pennsyl- 
 vania, where, without changing cars, he 
 is transferred to the Lebanon Valley Rail- 
 way, as far as Harrisburg, passing 
 through Easton, Allentown, Reading, and 
 Lebanon, and seeing some of the most 
 attractive landscape in the State. At 
 Harrisburg, the cars of this line take 
 the track of the Pennsylvania Central 
 Railway, which they follow to Pittsburg, 
 in their course, passing over the most 
 attractive portions of the Central Road, 
 including the Susquehanna Valley, the 
 crossing of the Alleghauies, the superb 
 mountain views near Altoona, the val- 
 ley of the Juniata, and other points of 
 interest. 
 
 At Pittsburg we leave the Pennsylva- 
 nia Central for the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne 
 cfr Chicago Railway, though through- 
 passengers need not change cars if they 
 have taken the precaution to seat them- 
 selves in one of the New York and Chi- 
 cago through-cars. This road passes 
 through some of the richest land in 
 Ohio. 
 
 Stations. — Pittsburg, 431 miles from 
 New York; Rochester, 457 (junction of 
 Cleveland & Pittsburg Railway) ; Home- 
 wood, 466 (connects with Newcastle 
 Branch); Enon, 477; Columbiana, 491; 
 Salem, 501 ; Alliance, 515 (crossing of 
 Cleveland & Pittsburg Railway) ; Canton, 
 
 533; Massillon, 541 ; Orrville, 555 (cross- 
 ing of Cleveland, Zauesville & Cincinnati 
 Railway); Wooster, 566; Loudonville, 
 588 ; Mansfield, 60*7 (crossing of San- 
 dusky, Mansfield & Newark Railway); 
 Crestline, 6:20 (crossing of Cleveland, 
 Columbus, Cincinnati, & Indianapolis 
 Railway, and at Galion, four miles south 
 on that road, forms a junction with the 
 Bellefontaine Railway Line) ; Bucyrus, 
 632 ; Forest, 661 (crossing of Cincinnati, 
 Sandusky & Cleveland Railway) ; Lafay- 
 ette, 684 ; Lima, 692 (Crossing of Day- 
 ton & Michigan Railway) ; Delphos, 706 ; 
 Van Wert, 719 ; Fort Wayne, 751 (cross- 
 ing Toledo, Wabash & Western Railway) ; 
 Columbia, 770 ; Pierceton, 782 ; War- 
 saw, 791 ; Bourbon, 804; Plymouth, 815 
 (crossing of Chicago, Cincinnati & Louis- 
 ville Railway) ; Wanatah, 846 (crossing 
 of Louisville, New Albany & Chicago Rail- 
 way) ; Valparaiso, 855 ; Clarke, 875 ; 
 R. I. Junction, 892 ; Chicago, 899. 
 
 Kocnester, S*a. (457 miles), is 
 on the left bank of Beaver River, at its 
 mouth, 26 miles below Pittsburg, on the 
 Ohio. This is the junction of the Cleve- 
 land & Pittsburg Railway. 
 
 M&raewood, I*a. (466 miles), is 
 a small village, where the Newcastle 
 Branch diverges. 
 
 Salem, O. (501 miles), is one of 
 the most important towns in the eastern 
 portion of the State. It is a beautiful 
 place, surrounded by a very rich and 
 highly-cultivated farming country, and is 
 interested in manufactures of various 
 kinds. 
 
 Alliance, ©. (515 miles), though 
 small, is already, on account of its rail- 
 way connections, a rapidly-growing place, 
 destined to become one of the most thriv- 
 ing in this section of the State. This is 
 the crossing of the Cleveland & Pitts- 
 burg Railway. 
 
 Canton, ©. (533 miles), the capital 
 of Stark County, is beautifully situated 
 on the banks of the Nisuishitten Creek, 
 surrounded by a rich farming country, 
 which enjoys the distinction of sending 
 more wheat to market than any other 
 county in the State. Good coal and lime- 
 stone are found in the vicinity, and the 
 advantages afforded for manufacturing, by 
 the fine water-power which the creek 
 furnishes, enhance the prosperity and 
 
Massillox.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Warsaw. 
 
 importance of the town, which, contains 
 a number of manufactories. 
 
 Massiiloaa, O. (541 miles), is a 
 flourishing town, situated on the Tusca- 
 rawas River and the Ohio Canal, by which 
 it lias water communication with Lake 
 Erie. It is regularly laid out, is substan- 
 tially and compactly built, and contains 
 many handsome residences. The section 
 of country in which it lies is full of coal 
 and limestone, is abundantly supplied with 
 water-power, and is noted for its agricul- 
 tural wealth. Massillon is, therefore, a 
 place of considerable trade ; and largely 
 exports the cereals. It is also noted for 
 the amount of wool which finds a market 
 here. 
 
 <$>a-valle, ©. (555 miles), is at the 
 junction of the Cleveland, Zanesville <£• 
 Cincinnati Railway. 
 
 Woostcr, ©. (566 miles), is a pros- 
 perous and rapidly-growing place. Pleas- 
 antly situated on Killbuck Creek, it is in 
 the midst of a beautifully undulating 
 country, of which it commands a fine 
 view. It is compactly built, is the capi- 
 tal of Wayne County, and is the seat of 
 several manufactories, and the centre of 
 a large trade. 
 
 JLoiadoaaviEle, O. (58S miles), is 
 a flourishing village, with a large local 
 trade. 
 
 MamsfieM, ©. (607 miles), is 
 another of the compactly-built, bustling 
 towns with which the State is dotted. It 
 is situated on a commanding elevation, in 
 a thickly-populated and highly-culti- 
 vated region. Many of the residences 
 which it contains are very handsome, and 
 are surrounded by spacious ornamental 
 grounds. Some of the churches are no- 
 ticeable, and one remarkably so. Mans- 
 field is the capital of Richland County, 
 which latter owes its name to the fertility 
 of its soil. The Sandusky, Mansfield & 
 Newark Railway crosses here. 
 
 ^Vesllliaae, ©. (620 miles), is a 
 thriving village, which, if not actually 
 the creation of the railways, is mainly in- 
 debted to them for its prosperity. The 
 road here connects with the Cleveland, 
 Columbus, Cincinnati cf' Indianapolis 
 Railway, which lias absorbed the JBeUe- 
 fontaine line, and is often so called. 
 
 ItiH'yi-EiM, <>. (632 miles), the cap- 
 ital of Crawford County, is situated on 
 24 
 
 the Sandusky River. It is a thriving 
 village. In its vicinity are several min- 
 eral springs, and a well of inflammable 
 gas. An excellent specimen of a masto- 
 don was found in a marsh near here in 
 1838. 
 
 Forest, ©. (661 miles), is a village 
 at the junction of the Cincinnati, San- 
 dusky & Cleveland Railway, 
 
 ILliaaa, ©. (692 miles), the capital 
 of Allen County, is situated upon the 
 Ottawa River, and is a pleasant place. 
 There is some manufacturing done here. 
 The boast of the village is its handsome 
 Union School building. The Dayton & 
 Michigan Railway, now managed by the 
 Cincinnati, Hamilton dc Dayton Railway, 
 connects here. 
 
 !>efl|»la©s, O. (706 miles), is a thriv- 
 ing village upon the Miami Extension 
 Canal, which furnishes a fine water-power. 
 
 Vara Wert, ©. (716 miles), capi- 
 tal of the county of the same name, is a 
 small village, pleasantly situated on a 
 sandy ridge, rising some 20 feet above 
 the level of the plain. 
 
 Fort Wayne, End. (751 miles), 
 is known as the " Summit City," from 
 the fact that it is the point from which 
 the water runs cast and west. It is built 
 upon the site of the " Tightwee village " 
 of the Miami tribe of Indians, at the 
 point where the Maum.ee River is formed 
 by the confluence of the St. Joseph and 
 St. Mary's Rivers. The Wabash & Erie 
 Canal also passes through this place, 
 which is the capital of Allen County. It 
 has grown rapidly, and is one of the most 
 important towns in the State. In 1794 
 the fort, from which the city takes its 
 name, was built here, and was retained 
 as a military station until 1819. Fort 
 Wayne is an important railway centre, the 
 following roads connecting here : Toledo, 
 Wabash £• Western, Grand Rapids dk In- 
 diana, Eort Wayne, Jackson &• Saginaw, 
 and Fori Wayne, Mancic <fc Cincinnati 
 Railways. 
 
 Col'uiailtin. In«E. (770 miles), the 
 capita] of Whitley County, is upon a 
 branch of Ed River, 
 
 Wssbvssb-w, laad. (701 miles), is a 
 flourishing place, pleasantly situated on 
 Tippecanoe River. It is the capital of 
 Kosciusko County, and docs considerable 
 milling and manufacturing. 
 
Plymouth.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE IV. [Cadiz Junction. 
 
 Plymouth, In«l. (815 miles), is 
 surrounded by a fine agricultural country, 
 and is advantageously situated upon the 
 bank of Yellow River. It is the capital 
 of Marshall County, and does a thriving 
 business. The Chicago, Cincinnati & 
 Louisville Railway intersects at this 
 point. 
 
 Wanatali, Im«l. (846 miles), is a 
 small village at the junction of the Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Railway. 
 
 Valparaiso, Ind. (855 miles), is 
 the capital of Porter County, and is situ- 
 ated upon Sail Creek. 
 
 Chicago, 111. (899 miles). (See 
 page 6.) 
 
 MO UTE IV. 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO. 
 
 Via Pan-handle Route, which includes tTie 
 2few Jersey Railway to Philadelphia, the 
 Pennsy/rmiiit Central, and the Pittsburg, 
 Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway, which 
 includes the Columbus, Chicago <& Indiana 
 Central Railways. {Time, 36 hrs. — Pare, 
 $22.) 
 
 From New York to Philadelphia this 
 route passes through the rich garden- 
 lands of New Jersey, and is dotted with 
 beautiful towns at intervals of every few 
 miles. It will be found described in 
 Appletons' Hand-Book op American 
 Travel — Northern and Eastern Tour. 
 The trip from Philadelphia to Pittsburg 
 is described in the same volume. A 
 few general remarks in regard to it will 
 be found, as introductory to Route III., in 
 this book. 
 
 At Pittsburg, the tourist has his choice 
 of two routes, one of which has just been 
 described, the other is the one which we 
 shall now take. We will therefore com- 
 mence our detailed description with the 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Pittsburg, 445 miles from 
 New York ; Mansfield (connects with 
 Chartiers Railway), 453 ; Burgettstown, 
 472 ; Steubenville (connects with Cleve- 
 land & Pittsburg Railway), 488 ; Cadiz 
 Junction, 513 ; Cadiz, 519 ; New Market, 
 522 ; Dennison, 538 ; Coshocton, 569 ; 
 Dresden, 583; Frazeysburg, 589; New- 
 ark (connects with Central Ohio and Lake 
 Erie Divisions of Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
 way), 605 ; Pataskala, 6?0 • Columbus 
 2 
 
 (connects with all diverging railways), 
 638 ; Pleasant Valley, 656 ; Milford (con- 
 nects with Cleveland, Columbus, Cincin- 
 nati & Indiana Railway), 666 ; Urbana 
 (connects with Atlantic & Great Western, 
 and Cincinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland 
 Railways), 685 ; Piqua (connects with 
 Dayton & Michigan Railway), 711 ; Brad- 
 ford Junction (the Indianapolis line di- 
 verges), 721 ; Pikeville, 731 ; Union (con- 
 nects with Cleveland, Columbus, Cin- 
 cinnati & Indiana Railway), 742 ; Ridge- 
 ville, 753 ; Dunkirk, 765 ; Hartford, 775 ; 
 Jonesboro, 788 ; Marion, 793 ; Xenia, 805 ; 
 Bunker Hill (connects with Indianapolis, 
 Peru & Chicago Railway), 818 ; Logans- 
 port (connects with Chicago & Peoria 
 lines ; also with Toledo, Wabash & West- 
 ern Railway), 833 ; Royal Centre, 845 ; 
 Winamac, 859 ; La Crosse (connects with 
 Louisville, New Albany & Chicago Rail- 
 way), 883; Hebron, 898; Crown Point, 
 908; Schererville, 915; Chicago, 949. 
 
 Pittshurg (445 miles), the second 
 city in size in Pennsylvania, is noted for 
 the enormous extent of its manufacturing, 
 coal, iron, and oil interests. It is situ- 
 ated at the point where the Alleghany and 
 Monongahela Rivers unite to form the 
 Ohio. It is fully described on page 123 
 of Applesons' Hand-Book of American 
 Travel — Northern and Eastern Tour. 
 Crossing the Ohio, the road traverses the 
 neck of land formed by the great bend 
 of the river, passing through a portion 
 of West Virginia, and then crossing the 
 river into the State of Ohio. 
 
 gteuhenville (488 miles) stands 
 upon an elevated plain, on the west bank 
 of the Ohio River, which, at this point, 
 runs north and south, and is one-third 
 of a mile wide. Being the county-seat 
 of Jefferson County, it contains the 
 county buildings. It has a number of 
 churches, mills, and manufactories, and 
 is the centre of an extensive trade. It 
 is the seat of an academy for boys, and 
 of a noted female seminary, the latter 
 being delightfully situated on the banks 
 of the river. The scenery in the vicinity 
 is very attractive. Connection is here 
 made with the Cleveland & Pittsburg Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Cadiz Junction (513 miles) is 
 where the Cadiz Branch, 6 miles in 
 length, diverges. 
 
 25 
 
Cadiz.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [CoLUMBCg. 
 
 Cadiz, ©., county-scat of Harrison 
 County, reached by the Cadiz Branch, is 
 pleasantly situated in the midst of hills, 
 containing valuable coal-mines. It is well 
 built, and is the principal market of one 
 of the greatest wool-producing regions 
 of the State. 
 
 Coslioeton, ©. (569 miles), tho 
 capital of the county of the same name, 
 is built upon four natural terraces, rising 
 one above the other, on the left bank of 
 the Muskingum Jiivcr, which is formed 
 by the junction of the Tuscarawas and 
 Walhonding Rivers, just above' the vil- 
 lage. The Ohio Canal, connecting the 
 Ohio River with Lake Erie, passes through 
 the village, and furnishes a good water- 
 power. 
 
 !>res<lem (5S3 miles) is a place of 
 great business activity, at the head of 
 navigation on the Muskingum River. It 
 possesses a fine water-power, and is sur- 
 rounded by coal and iron mines. It is 
 connected with the Ohio Canal by a 
 branch two miles in length. 
 
 Newark, O. (005 miles), is situated 
 on a level plain, at the junction of the 
 three forks of the Licking Jiivcr, and in 
 the midst of a rich agricultural country. 
 It is a handsome place, the streets being 
 wide, and the stores, churches, dwellings, 
 etc., well built. It is a manufacturing 
 as well as a commercial place; is upon 
 the line of the Ohio Canal ; is within 8 
 miles of a fine bituminous coal-mine; is 
 the capital of Licking County, and is 
 quite a railway centre, the Central Ohio, 
 Branch of the Baltimore & Ohio, and 
 Sandusky, Ma?isfield & Newark Railways, 
 connecting with the Pittsburg, Cincinnati 
 & St. Louis Railway, at this point. 
 
 Columil&ms, O. (C38 miles), is not 
 only the capital, but is, in other respects, 
 one of the most important cities of the 
 State. Its population, by the census of 
 1870, does not vary more than a few 
 hundreds from 32,000. A large and 
 populous suburb which belongs to the city 
 proper, but is outside the corporation 
 limits, is not included. The streets are 
 -■ ide, and are all regularly laid out 
 in squares. Broadway is 120 feet wide, 
 i'nv a distance of over two miles in length. 
 It has a double avenue (four rows) of 
 alternate maple and elm, and is 
 one of the most beautiful streets in the 
 20 
 
 world. Many of the handsomest residences 
 in the city arc on this street. High, 
 the principal business street, and some 
 others, are 100 feet wide. There is a 
 mile of Nicolson pavement on High 
 Street, and another mile of wooden block 
 pavement on Town Street, which com- 
 petes with Broad for fine residences. In 
 the centre of the city, occupying the 
 square of ten acres, between High and 
 Third, and Broad and State, is Capita, 
 Square, surrounded by majestic elms, and 
 beautifully laid out. It is purposed to 
 make it a complete arboretum of Ohio 
 trees, of which many varieties are already 
 represented. 
 
 The Capitol building is one of the 
 finest possessed by any State in the 
 LTnion. It is a classical structure, in the 
 Doric order, with a donie. It is constructed 
 of limestone, resembling marble, from the 
 State quarries only three miles distant. 
 It has a facade of more than 300 feet. 
 Elevation to the top of rotunda, 157 feet ; 
 depth, 184 feet ; superficial area, 55,930 
 square feet. The other State buildings 
 here are : 
 
 The State Penitentiary, situated upon 
 the left bank of tho Scioto River, just 
 below the mouth of the Olentangy, a 
 large and imposing collection of build- 
 ings, covering ten acres, to which ten 
 acres have been added recently, for an 
 enlargement. The main building fronts 
 the entire ten acres, with an imposing 
 limestone structure, in castellated style, 
 Italian in the centre. Most of the mason- 
 work of both the Penitentiary and the 
 Capitol was done by convicts. 
 
 The Central Ohio Lunatic Asylum was 
 burned in November, 1 80S, and in 1870 
 the old grounds were sold for $200,500, 
 and a new and elegant series of build- 
 ings, en echelon, commenced on 300 acres 
 of elevated ground, west of the city. 
 These buildings will be in the Franco- 
 Italian style, with a frontage of about 
 1,200 feet, depth of 300; centre tower, 
 105 feet high ; capacity for 600 patii 
 and line quarters for officers and attend- 
 ants as well. Adjoining these grounds, 
 to the south, are the gro 
 of the Ll'uit Asylum, a plain Cothic struct- 
 ure, 272 by 198 feet; tower, 182 feet 
 high. 
 
 The new Blind Asylum, on the grounds 
 
Columbus.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CHICAGO, ROUTE IV. 
 
 [Columbus. 
 
 of the old in the eastern part of the city, 
 will be a building 340 by 270 feet, a fine 
 specimen of Gothic architecture (in stone) 
 of the Tudor period. 
 
 The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is cen- 
 trally located on large and handsome 
 grounds on Town Street. It is built in 
 Franco-Italian style, with a Mansard roof. 
 It has a magnificent frontage on Town 
 Street of 400 feet, and runs back 380 
 feet. It has numerous towers, the centre 
 one of which is 140 feet high. The build- 
 ing has a superficial area of twenty-two 
 million feet. The State has also a large 
 well-built arsenal. 
 
 The United States Arsenal is quite a 
 feature. It is located on large and 
 handsome grounds, beautifully wooded. 
 It is in the northeastern suburb of 
 the city, on the line of the Panhandle 
 and Central Ohio Railroads. There are 
 numerous buildings, offices, quarters, 
 armory, store-houses, and an immense 
 central structure, a detailed description 
 of which would occupy too much space. 
 There is a fine drive to the arsenal, and 
 there are beautiful drives laid out through 
 and around the grounds. 
 
 The city has the City-Hall, facing 
 Capitol Square on the south side of State 
 Street — a building in pure Gothic, adapted 
 to modern wants and uses, 1SY^ feet by 
 80. It has a small central tower 138 feet 
 high. Height to ridge of roof, 98 feet. 
 The first and second stories are devoted 
 to rooms for various public uses. In the 
 third story is the audience-chamber, with 
 seats for 2,830 — one of the largest in the 
 Union. The High Sehool is a fine build- 
 ing in the simple Norman or church 
 architectural style. There are numerous 
 other public-school buildings in Italian 
 style, poorly treated. 
 
 The Holly Water-Works building is 
 near the junction of the Scioto and Olen- 
 tangy. It is 132 by 98 feet. Stack 110 
 feet high. Machinery 500 horse-power, 
 with rotary engine of 400 horse-power 
 extra, and two rotary-engine pumps for 
 fire purposes only. 
 
 The city owns other unimportant build- 
 ings, including the old city-hall and 
 market-house, city prison, engine-houses 
 of steam fire department, several of the 
 six bridges across the Scioto, etc. It 
 also owns the beautiful Goodale Pari; \ 
 
 given by Dr. Lincoln Goodale, consist- 
 ing of about 40 acres of native forest 
 beautifully improved and well kept, with 
 buildings for superintendent. This park 
 is at the north end of the city. At the 
 south end the city owns about an equal 
 quantity similar in all respects, called the 
 City Dark. It also owns the very exten- 
 sive and costly sewerage system of the city. 
 
 The county {Franklin) owns only a 
 very poor Court-House with county offices 
 attached, and a worse Door House or 
 County Infirmary — which has recently 
 been replaced by a fine structure on a 
 large farm recently purchased near the 
 city. 
 
 There are several other charities with 
 buildings of no note, but doing good 
 work, and all out of debt. The Hare 
 Orphans' Home, the Hannah Neil Mission, 
 and Dying-in Hospital may be mentioned. 
 The beautiful female seminary St. Mary's 
 of the Springs adjoins the city on the 
 east near the Water- Cure. There is also 
 a Catholic Asylum for the Declamation of 
 Fallen Women west of the city, and the 
 Sisters of Mercy have a fine hospital in 
 the city. 
 
 Starling Medical College is the delight 
 of architects, as one of the finest speci- 
 mens of Norman castellated architecture 
 extant. 
 
 Capital University is a rather unpre- 
 tending building in Italian style, sur- 
 rounded by beautiful grounds in the 
 northern part of the city. 
 
 The Odd-Fellows' Hall is a fine speci- 
 men of classical Italian, and opposite is 
 the Opera-House Block, a beautiful sample 
 of American street architecture, in the 
 florid Italian style. 
 
 The Opera-House in this block has 
 been spoken of by Mr. Jefferson, Mr. 
 Forrest, and other eminent actors, as one 
 of the most beautiful and chaste in de- 
 sign anywhere in this country. 
 
 Churches are numerous, and some are 
 fine specimens of the decorative period 
 of Gothic architecture. 
 
 The grounds of the Franklin County 
 Agricultural Society (83 acres, mile track), 
 on the eastern border of the city, are the 
 finest in the State. Olentangy Dark has 
 a fine half-mile ring north of the city. 
 There are several cemeteries, the most 
 beautiful one being Green Dawn. 
 27 
 
MlLFOKD.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [LOGANSPOKT 
 
 The city has a large wholesale trade, 
 and its manufactures reach every State 
 in the Union, and every country on the 
 continent. There is a considerable ex- 
 port trade direct to Europe of manufac- 
 tures of various kinds. 
 
 The opening of the Columbus <£• Hocking 
 Valley Railway in August, 1870, was the 
 greatest event in the history of. Columbus. 
 No other of its numerous roads has done 
 nearly as much for it. The Hocking 
 Valley penetrates a very rich iron and 
 coal region, and already capital is seek- 
 ing investments in rolling-mills, furnaces, 
 and all manufactures of iron. The popu- 
 lation of Columbus has nearly doubled 
 since the last census, by steady, perma- 
 nent growth. The census of 1870 finds 
 the city only on the threshold of the 
 increase to result from the opening of 
 the mineral resources of Southern Ohio 
 by the Hocking Valley road, which is 
 already one of the heaviest feeders of all 
 other roads centring here. The Pan- 
 handle and Little Miami Railways have 
 extensive shops here. 
 
 The following railroads centre at Co- 
 lumbus: The Cleveland & Columbus ; the 
 Central Ohio ; Pittsburg, Columbus <£• 
 Cincinnati ; Little Miami and Columbus & 
 Xenia ; Columbus, Chicago & Indiana 
 Central; Columbus & Hocking Valley. 
 These roads have recently been consoli- 
 dated under the management of three 
 great lines, with the exception of the 
 Hocking Valley and its branches. The 
 Baltimore <£• Ohio absorbs the Central 
 Ohio. The Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. 
 Louis Railway (Pan-handle Route) ab- 
 sorbs all the roads popularly known as 
 " The Ben Smith roads," and the same 
 road operates the Little Miami and Co- 
 lumbus & Xenia. The Bee lane, Cleve- 
 land, Columbus tb Indianopolis Railway 
 takes all the rest. Columbus has no 
 water transportation, except by branch 
 of the Ohio Canal, an important carrier 
 of heavy freights, connecting the city 
 with Portsmouth and all intervening 
 points to Cleveland. 
 
 Mil lord, O. (GOO miles), is the 
 point ol intersection with the Springfield 
 Branch of the Cleveland, Columbus, Cin- 
 cinnati <f' Indianapolis Railway. It is a 
 thriving village upon Big Darin/ Creek. 
 
 Urlmna, O. (085 miles), h a 
 23 
 
 charming village in which some manu- 
 facturing is done and which contains 
 several churches, banks, and a Sweden- 
 borgian college. It is the capital of 
 Champaign County. Connections are 
 made here with the Cincinnati, Sandusky 
 db Cleveland Railway, and the Atlantic & 
 Great Western Division of the Erie Rail- 
 way. 
 
 IL'iqun,, O. (711 miles), is noted for 
 its charming situation on the west bank 
 of the Great Miami Jiiver, just at a bend 
 which leaves a level plateau between the 
 town and the water's edge, while on the 
 opposite side the bank rises somewhat 
 boldly. The town is regularly laid out, 
 and contains a number .of churches, 
 several newspaper offices, and a town- 
 hall. There is a large business done here 
 with the surrounding country, which is 
 rich in agricultural products. This is 
 also an important manufacturing and 
 milling point, steam being employed for 
 this purpose as well as the water-power 
 afforded by the river. The Miami Canal 
 passes through Piqua, and the Dayton <£• 
 Michigan Railway connects at this point. 
 
 ISriidtordalginction, O. (721 
 miles), is where the road branches, one 
 division running to Indianapolis, Ind., 
 the other to Chicago, III. 
 
 Union City, Intl. (742 miles), 
 is upon the boundary-line of Ohio and 
 Indiana, being partly in Darke County, 
 Ohio, and partly in Randolph County, 
 Indiana. It is a thriving little place. 
 The Cleveland, Columbus & Indianapolis 
 Railway connects here. 
 
 Miii-ion, End. (703 miles), is a 
 flourishing village on the Mississinewa 
 River, surrounded by a rich fanning 
 country. 
 
 U8«infcer Elili, End. (818 miles), 
 is a small village at the crossing of the 
 Indianapolis, "Peru & Chicago Railway. 
 
 Logan>«]>ort, Ind. (S33 miles), 
 is the capital of Cass County. It is a 
 thriving city, possessing great advantages 
 from its railroad connections, and from 
 its situation on the Wabash River ami 
 Canal, at the mouth of Eel River. It is 
 an important shipping-port for grain, 
 pork, and lumber, ami is tin' centre of 
 trade for a rich agricultural region. It 
 also has a valuable water-power, which to 
 some extent is used for manufactures. 
 
WlNIMAC.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. 
 
 [Akron. 
 
 The Court-House, one of the finest in 
 the State, is built of cut stone. Three of 
 the churches and many other buildings 
 in the city are also of stone. 
 
 The car-works owned by the Pittsburg, 
 Cincinnati & St. Louis Railroad Company 
 occupy twenty-five* acres, on which are 
 nine buildings. Six hundred workmen 
 are employed. Three cars per day can 
 be turned out at these shops. 
 
 The Toledo, Wabash & Western Rail- 
 way connects here ; also the Chicago and 
 Peoria lines. 
 
 Winaniiic, End. (859 miles), is 
 situated upon the Tippecanoe River, and is 
 the capital of Pulaski County. 
 
 JLa. Crosse, End. (883 miles), is 
 a village at the junction with the Louis- 
 ville, ]\ r ew Albany <& Chi caff o Hail way. 
 
 Oaicago, IE1. (949 miles). (See 
 page G.) 
 
 ttOU TE Y. 
 
 NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI. 
 Via Erie Railway. ( Time, 30 hrs.—Fare, $20.) 
 
 As far as Salamanca, New York, this is 
 identical with Route II. (/Sfapage 15.) 
 From Salamanca to Clarksville, Pa., it 
 passes through the oil-regions of Pennsyl- 
 vania, and has been described as Route 
 III., page 130, Appletons' Hand-Book 
 op American Travel — Northern and 
 Eastern Tour. Corry and Meadsville 
 are the principal stations in Pennsyl- 
 vania. 
 
 Stations. — New York — Orangeville, 
 555 miles ; Burghill, 558 ; Baconsburg, 
 567 ; Warren, 575 ; Leavittsburg (junc- 
 tion of Branches to Cleveland, and to 
 Youngs town and Sharon), 578 ; Brace- 
 ville, 582 ; Calhoun, 587 ; Ravenna (con- 
 nects with Cleveland & Pittsburg Rail- 
 way), 599; Kent, 605; Tallmadge, 611 ; 
 Akron (connects with Cleveland, Mount 
 Vernon & Delaware Railway), 616 ; Wads- 
 worth, 629 ; Seville, 640 ; Burbank, 615 ; 
 West Salem, 652; Polk, 658; Ashland, 
 666 ; Windsor, 674 ; Mansfield (connects 
 with Sandusky, Mansfield & Newark Rail- 
 way, and Pittsburg, Port Wayne & Chi- 
 cago Railway), 682 ; Ontario, 690 ; Galion 
 (crossing of the Cincinnati Division of 
 the Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & 
 
 Indianapolis Railway), 697 ; Caledonia, 
 709 ; Marion (connects with Cleveland, 
 Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis 
 Railway), 718 ; Berwick, 721 ; Itichwood, 
 732 ; Newton, 742 ; North Lewisburg, 
 752 ; Mingo, 757 ; Urbana (connects with 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Rail- 
 way, and Cincinnati, Sandusky & Cleve- 
 land Railwav), 706; Bowlesville, 773; 
 Springfield, 780; Osborne, 791; Dayton 
 (connects with Dayton and Western 
 Railway), 801 ; Middletown, 826 ; Hamil- 
 ton (connects with Cincinnati & Indian- 
 apolis Junction Railway), 836 ; Cincinnati, 
 861 (connects with railways diverging, 
 and with steamer-lines on the Ohio River). 
 
 ©ning-cviEle, ©. (555 miles), is 
 a small village, and is the first station on 
 this line in Ohio. 
 
 "WssE-reaa, O. (575 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Trumbull County, is quite a hand- 
 some village on the Mahoning River, and 
 on the Pemisylvania & Ohio Canal. It 
 contains several founderies and mills, and 
 is the business centre of one of the most 
 noted cheese-producing sections of the 
 State. In the vicinity there is abundance 
 of coal and iron-ore. 
 
 ILcitvittsEsMrg-, ©. (578 miles), 
 is the junction of branches to Cleveland, 
 and to Youngstown and Sharon. 
 
 ISiaveiiiaa, O. (599 miles), is situ- 
 ated on the Pennsylvania & Ohio Canal, 
 which furnishes a good water-power. It 
 is the capital of Portage County, and is 
 noted for its manufactures, the chief of 
 which is carriage-making. It is the point 
 of shipment for large quantities of cheese, 
 wool, grain, and butter. The Cleveland & 
 Pittsburg Railway connects at this point. 
 
 Akroci. ©. (616 miles), one of the 
 most attractive and thriving places in 
 the State, is the capital of Summit County, 
 and possesses unusual advantages, being 
 at the junction of the Ohio & Pennsyl- 
 vania and the Ohio & Erie Canals, which 
 afford ample means of shipment for the 
 immense quantities of grain which are 
 grown in this region. The canal and the 
 Little Cuyahoga River furnish a fine 
 water-power for a large number of mills, 
 factories, and other mechauical establish- 
 ments. In the vicinity are large beds of 
 mineral fire-proof paint, which is being 
 used in different parts of the country. 
 The situation is a fine one, being 400 feet 
 29 
 
AsnLAND.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Daytox. 
 
 above the level of Lake Erie, 36 miles 
 distant. The Cleveland, Mount Vernon & 
 J)i laware Railway connects at this point. 
 
 Ashlaii«1, <I>. (666 miles), is the 
 \ of Ashland County, which for fer- 
 tility is unsurpassed by any portion of 
 the Slate. A large general business and 
 some manufacturing are done here. The 
 village is very pretty. 
 
 MamslIeM, C>. (682 miles), is the 
 junction with the Sandusky, Mansfield & 
 Newark, and the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne 
 &• Chicago Railway. (See page 24.) 
 
 ^nssliosa, O. (697 miles), is a rapidly- 
 growing village at the crossing of the Cin- 
 cinnati Branch of the Cleveland, Colum- 
 bus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 ^alcdloEia, ©. (709 miles), is on 
 the west branch of Whetstone River, and 
 is a milling village. 
 
 Marion, ©. (709 miles), the capital 
 of the county of the same name, is a 
 prosperous village, which is steadily grow- 
 ing It is the junction of the Cleveland, 
 < olumbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis 
 Railway. 
 
 Urfoasaa, ©.(766 miles). The Cin- 
 cinnati, Sandusky <b Cleveland, and Pitts- 
 burg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railways 
 connect here. (See page 28.) 
 
 £»S»rIza{»-fliel«l, 4>. (780 miles), one 
 of the most beautiful cities in the State, 
 is the capital of Clarke County, and is 
 situated at the confluence of Lagonda 
 Creek and Mad River, both of which 
 furnish a capital water-power, their com- 
 bined capacity being estimated at a con- 
 stant supply for 150 run of stones. The 
 manufacturing and milling interest is 
 large. Springfield is surrounded by a very 
 feri ile and highly-cultivated country, from 
 which it derives a large and profitable 
 trade. Many of the stores and residences 
 an; elegant, and it also contains some 
 handsome churches. A short distance 
 from the city is located Wittenburg Col- 
 lege (Lutheran), surrounded by spacious 
 grounds. Five miles west of Springfield 
 Tecumseh, the great Indian chief, was 
 born. 
 
 Springfield has acquired quite a repu- 
 tation for the manufacture of the turbine 
 water-wheel and the finest description of 
 agricultural machinery. Its reapers and 
 mowers are unexcelled on the continent 
 for perfection, style, and finish. 
 30 
 
 Connection is made here with the 
 Springfield branch of the Cleveland, Co- 
 lumbus & Cincinnati Railway, and with 
 a branch of the Little Miami Railway. 
 
 I$aytois, O. (801 miles), is upon 
 the east bank of the Great Miami River, 
 at the mouth of the Mad River, and is 
 one of the most charming cities in the 
 country; its streets are broad, and well 
 shaded, crossing each other at right an- 
 gles, and, as a rule, being kept in the 
 best condition. It is noted for the ele- 
 gance of its private residences, many of 
 which are surrounded by spacious and 
 highly-ornamented grounds. Of its 40 
 odd churches, some are models of sym- 
 metry and beauty. 
 
 It is the capital of Montgomery County, 
 and contains the public buildings, among 
 which the Court-IIovse is particularly 
 noticeable as one of the finest in the 
 "West. It is upon the model of the Par- 
 thenon, is 127 feet long, 62 wide, and is 
 built of white marble, large quarries of 
 which exist in the vicinity, and which, 
 together with a fine quality of limestone, 
 also found in the neighborhood, is largely 
 used for building purposes, both in Day- 
 ton and in Cincinnati. 
 
 The most attractive feature of Dayton 
 to the tourist is the Centred National 
 Soldiers' Home, situated on a beautiful 
 elevation, four miles out of the city, and 
 reached within a few hundred yards by 
 a new horse-railway. The Home is an 
 extensive group of fine large buildings, 
 over forty ha number, including a hand- 
 some church, built of native white lime- 
 stone, and a splendid hospital, recognized 
 by the highest medical authority as the 
 best adapted to its purpose in the United 
 States. The latter is of red brick, with 
 freestone facings and trimmings, and 
 accomodates three hundred patients. A 
 brick dining-hall, with a kitchen capable 
 of seating 3,000, the largest in the Uni- 
 ted States; a fine library, music-hall, bil- 
 liard-room, bowling-alley, headquarters 
 building, and several barracks for the 
 men, complete the list of buildings. 
 
 The grounds embrace an area of 610 
 acres, well shaded with natural forest- 
 trees, and are handsomely laid out, with 
 sweeping avenues, deer-park, Btocked 
 from Lookout Mountain, a beautiful ar- 
 tificial lake, natural grotto, hot-house?, 
 
ciu>i^ 
 
 T Y ( > i" 
 
 n m as i 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 accompany AppletonsHandBookofAmerican Travel western! 
 
Hamilton.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 and flower-beds. The land was given 
 to the Government by the citizens of 
 Dayton, and is so improved and beauti- 
 fied by the taste and industry of the 
 Board of Managers, and the inmates, 
 that it is spoken of with pride by the en- 
 tire people of the State. The Homo is 
 consti'ucted on the expansive principle, 
 and now accommodates about 2,000 dis- 
 abled soldiers, over two hundred of whom 
 "are in the hospital. The death-rate, from 
 old wounds, aud disease contracted during 
 the war, is five per week, or 260 annually. 
 
 Dayton possesses au immense water- 
 power, which is highly improved, the 
 water of Mad River being brought into 
 the city by a hydraulic canal. It is noted 
 for the number and magnitude of its 
 manufactures, especially of railroad cars, 
 paper, stoves, and hollow-ware. It is 
 upon the Miami Canal, and is one of the 
 four largest cities in the State, the popu- 
 lation being between 30,000 and 40,000. 
 Connections are made here with the Cin- 
 cinnati, Hamilton & Dayton, Dayton & 
 Michigan, Cincinnati, Richmond <£' Chi- 
 cago, Dayton, Xenia & Western, and Cin- 
 cinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland Railways. 
 
 lls&srailtosi, ©. (836 miles), is the 
 capital of Butler County, and is situated 
 on both sides of the Miami, River. By 
 means of a hydraulic canal, a water- 
 power sufficient for 166 run of stones is 
 secured, which gives to the city great ad- 
 vantages as a manufacturing place. The 
 neighboring country is rich and popu- 
 lous. The Cincinnati & Indianapolis 
 Junction and the Cincinnati, Richmond 
 & Chicago Railways connect here. 
 
 Oxford, ©., lies about 14 miles 
 northwest of Hamilton, on the last-named 
 road, and is famous as a seat of learning. 
 
 Miami University, one of the oldest 
 and most reputable in the State, and two 
 large academies, one conducted on the 
 Mount Holyoke plan, and the other un- 
 der the auspices of the Presbyterian 
 Church, together with three minor edu- 
 cational institutions, claim distinction 
 and consideration for this handsome little 
 village, situated in the fertile valley of 
 Whitewater. 
 
 CINCINNATI, OHIO. 
 
 Cincinnati (861 miles from New York) 
 is known as the " Queen City," a title 
 
 it well deserves, from its situation, 
 size, and beauty. The city has a front- 
 age of 10 miles on the north bank of the 
 Ohio River, and extends back for about 
 2 miles, occupying half of a valley bi- 
 sected by the river, and extending to the 
 base of the vine and villa crowned hills, 
 which form a beautiful natural amphi- 
 theatre, containing, besides Cincinnati, 
 the cities of Newport and Covington, 
 Kentucky, the two being separated by 
 the Licking River, which empties into 
 the Ohio, opposite to Cincinnati, and 
 over which a suspension bridge is thrown, 
 thus bringing the three cities into direct 
 intercourse by street-railrcad lines. 
 
 Cincinnati is principally built upon two 
 terraces, the first 50 and the second 108 
 feet above low-water mark. The latter 
 has been graded to an easy slope, termi- 
 nating at the base of the hills. 
 
 The streets are laid out with great 
 regularity, crossing each other at right 
 angles, and of an average width of sixty- 
 six feet. The business portion of the 
 city is compactly built, aud in the archi- 
 tectural elegance of its stores, and espe- 
 cially those devoted to wholesale busi- 
 ness, equals that of any city on the 
 continent. A fine drab freestone is the 
 material chiefly used, and great attention 
 is paid to uniting beauty of design with 
 solidity of construction. Great foresight 
 and public spirit are shown by its citizens 
 in beautifying the streets, and in laying 
 out its broad and handsome avenues and 
 parks. 
 
 The history of Cincinnati is of some 
 interest, although a century has not yet 
 elapsed since the first settler moored his 
 flat-boat, and became the founder of the 
 " Queen City." This was in 1*788, and, 
 for a number of years, a continual series 
 of difficulties with the Indians retarded 
 the progress of the town, and many a 
 story of savage raids, of midnight alarms, 
 and of fearful barbarity, is still related 
 by the descendants of the early residents. 
 In 1800 it had grown to 750 inhabitants, 
 and in 1819 it was incorporated as a city. 
 About 1830 the Miami Canal was built, 
 aud in the next ten years the population 
 increased 85 per cent. In 1840 the Lit- 
 tle Miami, the first of the many railroads 
 now centring in Cincinnati, was built, 
 and in 1850 the population had increased 
 31 
 
Cincinnati.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cincinnati, 
 
 from 40,382, to 115,130. In 18G9 it was 
 estimated at 230,000, but the census of 
 1870 shows it to be a little less than 
 22H,(K)0. 
 
 On the Cth of September, 1862, mar- 
 tial law was declared in the city, and the 
 scenes which followed, during what is 
 known as the " Siege of Cincinnati," 
 will be remembered as long as the city 
 exists. The Confederate troops were 
 rapidly advancing on the place, and, as 
 the General Government could spare no 
 forces to meet them, capture seemed in- 
 evitable, but the people rallied to their 
 own defence. In one day and night, a 
 pontoon bridge was thrown across the 
 River (the suspension bridge across the 
 Ohio not being completed), and the next 
 morning a steady column of men were 
 marching across to the Kentucky shore ; 
 lawyers and actors, merchants and cler- 
 gymen, doctors and carmen, laborers and 
 clerks, in fact, all, without any distinction 
 of color or profession, went to the front 
 with pick and shovel, with rifle and shot- 
 gun. From the interior of the State 
 came a brigade of squirrel-hunters (farm- 
 ers and their boys), each with his rifle, 
 his pouch filled with bullets, his horn of 
 powder, and his box of " greased patch- 
 es ; " intrenchments were rapidly thrown 
 up, the river-steamers were turned into 
 extempore gunboats, and heavy batteries 
 were constructed on all the eminences for 
 miles around. Happily, however, the city 
 was not besieged. 
 
 IIOTELS AND RESTAURANTS. 
 
 TIoTELS. — The hotels of Cincinnati arc 
 numerous, and some of them of great 
 elegance, while, as a rule, they are noted 
 for the excellence of their fare. The 
 following are considered the best, and 
 one cannot go amiss in visiting any of 
 them: 
 
 The Burnet House has a front of 212 
 feet on Third and 210 feet on Vine 
 Street. It is built in the Italian style of 
 architecture, and for many years has been 
 noted for its splendid appointments. It 
 is one of the oldest and best patronized 
 hotels in the city, and one of the best 
 appointed in the 1 West. 
 
 The Gibson House, on the west side of 
 "Walnut Street, between Fourth and Filth 
 Streets, opposite to the Merchants' Ex- 
 32 
 
 change and Young Men's Mercantile Li- 
 brary, is admirably arranged. 
 
 The Spencer House, on the northwest 
 comer of Broadway and the Public Land- 
 ing, is large and elegantly appointed, and 
 is popular with Southerners. 
 
 The St. James Hotel, on Fourth Street, 
 corner of Hammond and east of Maine 
 Street, is a popular and fashionable house. 
 
 The Walnut Street House, on Walnut, 
 corner of Gano, between Fifth and Sixth 
 Streets, is very large, and is noted for the 
 elegance and size of its dining-room. 
 
 The Carlisle House, corner of Mound 
 and Sixth Streets, is a well-conducted 
 house, upon the European plan. 
 
 The Merchants' Hotel, Fifth Street, cast 
 of Main ; the Gait House, southwest 
 corner of Sixth and Main Streets ; and 
 the Metropolitan, Hotel, on the west side 
 of Main Street, below Second, are all 
 good hotels. 
 
 Restaurants. — There arc many excel- 
 lent restaurants in Cincinnati, where the 
 visitor is sure of good eating at fair 
 prices. Among them the following are 
 the best for ladies : 
 
 KeppJer^s, on Fourth Street, between 
 Plum Street and Central Avenue, has a 
 large and elegant stone front. There is 
 an extensive saloon and confectionery 
 on the ground floor, and apartments in 
 the upper stories for families or individ- 
 uals. It is conducted on the European 
 plan. 
 
 St. Nicholas. — This establishment is on 
 the corner of Fourth and Race Streets, 
 and furnishes saloon and restaurant ac- 
 commodations. 
 
 Schmidts, corner of Seventh and Race 
 Streets, and 
 
 Becker 's, on Mound Street, near the 
 Carlisle House, sums up the most conve- 
 nient and accessible restaurants of Cin- 
 cinnati for lady visitors. 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 
 The means of getting from point to 
 point in Cincinnati are by carriages and 
 street railways. 
 
 Street Railways. — These arc eight in 
 number, and the fare is fixed at a uniform 
 rate of six cents, except to Mount Au- 
 burn, Cumminsville, and Spring Grove 
 Cemetery, when higher rates are charged. 
 
 The Covington and Newport City Kail- 
 
Cincinnati.] NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. [Cincinnati. 
 
 ways cross the Suspension Bridges, and 
 persons wishing a fine view of the river 
 aud the three cities, as well as the bridges, 
 can procure it cheaply and easily by tak- 
 ing a car at the end of the Cincinnati 
 bridge. 
 
 Hacks. — There are practically no re- 
 strictions on the charges of the hackmen, 
 as the legal scale of prices was estab- 
 lished before the war, and no one pays 
 any attention to it. As a matter of self- 
 protection, and to avoid trouble, it is ad- 
 visable to make a bargain before start- 
 
 The pride of Cincinnati is the great 
 Suspension Bridge across the Ohio, de- 
 signed and built under the supervision of 
 the late John A. Roebling. This bridge, 
 which is upon the same plan as the Ni- 
 agara Suspension Bridge, is suspended 
 between two towers, one in Cincinnati, 
 and one in Covington, each 200 feet high. 
 From tower to tower, is 1,057 feet, the 
 span being the largest in the world ; the 
 entire length is 2,252 feet, and its height 
 above low water is 100 feet. By taking 
 the cars at Front Street, in an hour's ride 
 one may pass over this bridge, over the 
 one between Covington and Newport, and 
 return to the starting-point, having been 
 in two States, and three cities, and hav- 
 ing crossed two navigable rivers. 
 
 A very handsome Railroad Bridge, 
 which was completed in the year 1871, 
 unites Butler Street, in Cincinnati, with 
 Saratoga Street, in Newport. There are 
 8 piers and 7 spans. The bridge is of 
 wrought -iron, except the fioor, which 
 is of wood. It is arranged for car- 
 riages and pedestrians as well as rail- 
 way -trains. 
 
 The Licking Bridge. — This is a wire 
 suspension bridge across the Licking 
 River, just above the mouth, connecting 
 the cities of Covington and Newport, 
 Kentucky. It was the longest span in 
 the West before the magnificent structure 
 already alluded to was put up, and, since 
 that improvement, has been called into 
 double use by residents and visitors to 
 the United States Barracks, which grew 
 out of a small military post in the pio- 
 neer times of Cincinnati. The view, day 
 or night, from this bridge, is impressive. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Pike's Music Hall, one of the most ele- 
 gant in the country, is on Fourth Street, 
 between Vine and Walnut. Pike's Opera- 
 House was entirely destroyed by fire in 
 1866, but was rebuilt for business pur- 
 poses, with the Music Hall in the second 
 story. The style of architecture is of 
 the Elizabethan era, highly ornamented, 
 and the material used is fine sandstone. 
 
 The National Theatre, the " Old Drury" 
 of Cincinnati, is on Sycamore Street, be- 
 tween Third and Fourth Streets. It is 
 very large, and possesses all the neces- 
 sary facilities for producing the most 
 elaborate dramatic and scenic effects. 
 
 Wood's T7iealre, corner of Sixth and 
 Vine Streets, is a small theatre with a 
 very contracted stage, but is regularly 
 occupied by good dramatic companies. 
 
 Mozart Hall, devoted to lectures and 
 concerts, is in the German Catholic Insti- 
 tute, on Vine Street, at the corner of 
 Longworth Street. It has a seating ca- 
 pacity for 3,000, and is provided with a 
 good stage, scenery, etc., but is not used 
 regularly as a theatre. 
 
 The other public halls are the Melodeon, 
 corner of Fourth and Walnut Streets ; 
 College Hall (new), in College building, 
 Walnut Street, above Fourth ; Greenwood 
 Hall, in the Mechanics' Institute, corner 
 of Sixth and Vine Streets ; and the large 
 halls " Over the Rhine," noticed under 
 that head. Hopkins's Music Hall, corner 
 of Fourth and Elm Streets, completes the 
 list of halls where public entertainments 
 of a first-class character are given. 
 
 The Gy>nnasium, on Fourth Street, is 
 one of the most perfect in the country. 
 It contains a splendid exercising room, a 
 handsomely-furnished reading-room, and 
 commodious bath-room. The association 
 has over 1,200 members. 
 
 The Queen City Skating-Rink, on Free- 
 man Street, between Laurel and Betts 
 Streets, is at all times an attractive re- 
 sort. 
 
 The Union Skating-Rink, west of Lin- 
 coln Park, is devoted to base-ball in the 
 summer. 
 
 CHUEOIIES. 
 
 There are about 150 large churches in 
 Cincinnati, some of them remarkable for 
 architectural taste, and the arrangements 
 33 
 
Cincinnati.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 for securing comfort to the congrega- 
 tions worshipping In them. 
 
 The most attractive are the following : 
 St. John's (Episcopal), corner of John 
 and Seventh Streets; St. Paul's (Method- 
 ist Episcopal), corner of Seventh and 
 Smith Streets, built of native blue lime- 
 stone, faced with the beautiful white Day- 
 ton stone ; First Baptist, on Ninth Street, 
 between Vine and Race Streets ; Trinity 
 (Methodist Episcopal), Ninth Street, be- 
 tween Race and Elm Streets ; First Pres- 
 byterian, Fourth Street, between Main 
 and Walnut ; Central Presbyterian, Mound 
 Street, between Sixth and Seventh Streets. 
 St. Peter's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), 
 the Synagogue, the Reformed Presby- 
 terian, the First Congregational, and the 
 Central Christian churches stand on three 
 sides of the square of which the city 
 buildings, and a neat little park, form the 
 Fourth side, the whole rendering that 
 part of the city very attractive. This 
 square lies between Eighth and Ninth 
 and Plum Streets, and Central Avenue. 
 The Jews have also a second and equal- 
 ly handsome synagogue, corner of Eighth 
 and Mound Streets ; and the Society of 
 Friends have a very neat new meeting- 
 house on the diagonal corner. 
 
 Services are held in the synagogues 
 every Saturday morning at ten o'clock. 
 
 St. Xavier's Church (Roman Catholic), 
 on Sycamore Street, between Sixth and 
 Seventh Streets, although unfinished as 
 to the spire and towers, is interiorly 
 one of the handsomest specimens of 
 Gothic architecture in the West. 
 
 PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. 
 Eden Park is on a hill to the cast of 
 the city, commanding magnificent views 
 of the city, the vallgy of the Ohio, and 
 the surrounding country. It is not yet 
 completed, but the main avenues have 
 be in surveyed, and partially graded. The 
 new reservoir of the water-works is lo- 
 cated here, and will have the effect of a 
 large and beautiful lake. The area of 
 this park is ICO acres, and the natural 
 advantages are so great that the expense 
 of improving and beautifying it will be 
 comparatively small. The centre of the 
 ground is very undulating, and every 
 opportunity is afforded for the construc- 
 tion of artificial lakes, rivulets, ca 
 31 
 
 grottos, bridges, and all those other ac- 
 cessions which combine to make a public 
 park a desirable resort. 
 
 Washington Park, one of the oldest 
 pleasure-grounds in the city, formerly a 
 cemetery, is on the north side of Twelfth 
 Street, between Race Street and the Mi- 
 ami Canal. It is a beautiful and attrac- 
 tive spot. 
 
 Lincoln Park is on the west side of 
 Freeman Street, north of Clarke, and is 
 beautiful and extensive, with a lovely 
 miniature lake and island, and sweeping 
 avenues. 
 
 City Park is on Plum Street, north of 
 Eighth, in front of the City Buildings. 
 
 Hopkins's Park is at the corner of Saun- 
 ders Street and Mount Auburn Avenue. 
 It is small, but tastefully laid out, and 
 adds much to the beauty of that charm- 
 ing suburb. This park was given to the 
 city by S. C. Hopkins, on condition that 
 it should be used as a park, and kept in 
 good condition. 
 
 public and prominent buildings, 
 and places not otherwise clas- 
 SIFIED. 
 
 Municipal. — The City Buildings and 
 the grounds attached occupy the square 
 between Eighth and Ninth Streets, front- 
 ing on Plum Street. The buildings are 
 large and handsome, and are set off by 
 the trim little park, with a fountain in the 
 centre, already mentioned. 
 
 The Court-House is a large and im- 
 posing structure of Dayton stone, front- 
 ing on Main Street north of Ninth Street 
 The interior arrangements are quite in 
 keeping with the handsome exterior. 
 Ample accommodations are provided for 
 the courts, and one of the finest law 
 libraries in the United States is to be 
 found within its walls. The jail is in the 
 rear, and is connected with the court- 
 house by a subterranean passage. 
 
 The House of Refuge is situated in 
 Mill ('nek Valley, one mile north of the 
 city limits. It lias a front of 277 feet, 
 and consists of a main building and two 
 wings. The main building is 85 by 55 
 feet, and each of the wings is 96 by -" s feel 
 There are towers at the extremities of 
 the main building and the wings. The 
 buildings are of blue limestone, trimmed 
 with white Dayton stone. Nearly six acres 
 
Cincinnati.] NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. [Cincinnati 
 
 of ground surrounding the buildings are 
 enclosed by a stone wall 20 feet high. 
 This institution is for the reformation of 
 young criminals. 
 
 The' City Work-house is near the Ilouse 
 of Refuge. It was commenced in 1807, 
 and is now completed and in operation. 
 The main building is 510 feet long, con- 
 taining 600 apartments, the workshops 
 forming a hollow square in the rear, and 
 is one of the most imposing edifices about 
 the city. 
 
 NATIONAL. 
 Custom-House and Post- Office. — This 
 is a handsome stone edifice on Fourth 
 Street, at the corner of Vine. The United 
 States courts, Government depository, 
 and other offices, are in the building. 
 
 EDUCATIONAL AND CIIAEITABLE. 
 
 Cincinnati College is on Walnut Street, 
 between Fourth and Fifth. It is a white 
 limestone building of the Doric style of 
 architecture, and its dimensions are 140 
 by 100 feet. It was originally founded 
 as a regular college, was afterward sus- 
 pended, was then revived as a college 
 and medical school, and is at present a 
 law school. It has an unincumbered 
 property of $200,000, and the income is 
 accumulating as a fund to found a free 
 university. The building is in part oc- 
 cupied as a public hall, and by the Young 
 Men's Mercantile Library Association. 
 
 The Medical College of Ohio, on Sixth 
 Street, between Vine and Race Streets, is 
 a well-appointed institution. 
 
 The Miami Medical College, on Twelfth 
 Street, near the Cincinnati Hospital, 
 founded nearly twenty years ago, is a 
 flourishing institution. One of its found- 
 ers was the late Prof. R. D. Mussey, 
 famous in the history of medicine in 
 America. 
 
 St. Xavier's College (Jesuit), founded in 
 1828, and magnificently rebuilt in 1868, 
 is a massive structure of native free- 
 stone and brick, on Sycamore Street, with 
 a frontage of 66 feet, and running on 
 Seventh Street 166 feet. 
 
 German Catholic Institute. — This is on 
 Vine Street, near Sixth, adjoining the 
 Mechanics' Institute, and adds much to 
 the architectural effect of that part of 
 the city. Mozart Hall, already noticed, is 
 in the building. 
 
 The Wesleyan Female College is on 
 Wesley Avenue, between Court and 
 Clarke Streets. The foundations were 
 laid in 1867, and the building as now 
 completed is a fine edifice, surrounded 
 by ornamental grounds. The institution 
 has been in operation since 1832. 
 
 Convent of Notre-Dame, — This is on 
 Sixth Street, west of Sycamore. A day 
 school for young ladies, and limited board- 
 ing accommodation for day pupils, sup- 
 port the Order. 
 
 St. Clair's Convent is the home of a 
 French sisterhood, known as the Sisters 
 of the Poor of St. Francis. It is at the 
 corner of Lythe and Third Streets. The 
 Sisters teach young ladies household iu- 
 dustry, and some of the polite accom- 
 plishments. 
 
 The Cathedral School is a large free 
 Roman Catholic school, built by Arch- 
 bishop Purcell, in opposition to the public 
 school system, on the corner of Mound 
 and Chestnut Streets. An unsuccessful 
 effort was made to dispose of this and 
 other Catholic schools to the Board of 
 Education. 
 
 Convent of St. Francis, on Vine Street, 
 between Liberty and Greene Streets (Ger- 
 man). Industry and charity are the ob- 
 jects of the order of this name. 
 
 The Hughes High School is on the south 
 side of Fifth, facing Mound Street. It is 
 in the collegiate Gothic style of archi- 
 tecture, and is admirably suited for the 
 purpose for which it was built. 
 
 The Woodward High School is on Frank- 
 lin Street, between Sycamore and Broad- 
 way, and is, like the Hughes, a step be- 
 tween the intermediate schools and the 
 college. The students are admitted by 
 competitive examination, from the gradu- 
 ates of the public schools, which in this 
 city are numerous and well conducted. 
 Both of these schools are named after the 
 gentlemen who founded them. 
 
 The Lane Theological Seminary, located 
 at Walnut Hills, is one of the most noted 
 in the country, and the names of many 
 distinguished divines are identified with 
 it. 
 
 The Roman Catholicg have a large 
 theological seminary and a flourishing 
 academy on the western range of hills 
 overlooking the Deer Creek Valley ; but 
 these are not in the corporate limits. 
 35 
 
Cincinnati.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 The Ohio Meclianics 1 Institute, corner 
 of Sixth and Vino Streets, was founded in 
 1829, with the object of affording, at a 
 nominal cost, instruction in practical 
 branches of knowledge. The institute 
 building is large, and contains Greenwood 
 Hall and commodious rooms, one of 
 which is occupied by the Theological and 
 Religious Library. The Fire Department 
 watch-tower and alarm-bell are upon this 
 building. 
 
 Besides the educational institutions al- 
 ready mentioned, are the Eclectic Medical 
 ( ollege, the Physio-Medical College, the 
 College of Dental Surgeons, and the Mount 
 Auburn Female Seminary. 
 
 The charitable institutions and associa- 
 tions of Cincinnati are numerous, and arc 
 conducted with a spirit of liberality and 
 energy. Space can only be found here 
 for a sketch of the most prominent. 
 
 The Cincinnati Hospital, completed in 
 18G9, occupies the block north of Twelfth 
 Street, between Plum Street and Central 
 Avenue. It is said to be the largest, 
 most complete, and handsomest institution 
 of the kind, in the country. It consists 
 of a number of detached buildings which 
 are so united by corridors as to form one 
 complete and harmonious whole. They 
 are arranged so as to form a hollow 
 square, in the centre of which is a foun- 
 tain, surrounded by shade-trees and or- 
 namental shrubbery. The central build- 
 ing, through which is the main entrance, 
 is surmounted by a dome and spire 110 feet 
 high. The building is of brick, with free- 
 stone trimmings ; the roof (Mansard) is 
 covered with variegated slate. The 
 grounds are 448 by 340 feet. The cost 
 was nearly $1,000,000. Every stranger 
 should visit this institution. 
 
 St. Luke's Hospital is an Episcopal 
 institution, located at the corner of 
 Franklin Street and Broadway. It was 
 incorporated in 1866. Patients are ad- 
 mitted without regard to creed, and 
 may be visited by clergymen of their own 
 faith. It is not entirely a charitable insti- 
 tution, as pay patients arc received. 
 
 The Jewish Hospital, corner of Baum 
 and Third Streets, provides for the 
 needy sick of the Jewish faith, thereby 
 entirely relieving the city of that ex- 
 pense. It is supported by voluntary 
 contributions. 
 36 
 
 St. Mary's Hospital, corner of Betts 
 and Linn Streets, is a Roman Catholic 
 institution, under the management of a 
 German sisterhood. It is partly support- 
 ed by charity and partly by pay from 
 such patients as can afford to give. 
 
 The Hospital of the Good Samaritan is 
 at the corner of Lock and Sixth Streets. 
 This was the IT. S. Marine Hospital, but 
 was abandoned by the Government and 
 purchased by two wealthy citizens, who 
 gave it to the Sisters of Charity. It is a 
 magnificent building, very large and com- 
 modious. Patients are charged for 
 rooms and attendance, although some are 
 admitted on charity. 
 
 Sisters of the Good Shepherd. — This or- 
 der has a Magdalen institution, corner 
 of Bank and Baymillcr Streets, where 
 abandoned women are reclaimed, and are 
 taught to support themselves by honest 
 labor. A convent and the Magdalen oc- 
 cupy almost an entire block. 
 
 The Chape! of the Sisters of Mercy is an 
 order engaged in finding employment for 
 women. It is doing a grand missionary 
 work among the intemperate. The house 
 is on Fourth Street, between Central 
 Avenue and John Street. 
 
 The City Infirmary has its office on 
 Plum Street, between Seventh and Eighth, 
 but its building, which is large and hand- 
 some, is located upon a line farm, Si- 
 miles north of the city, upon the Car- 
 thage road. 
 
 The Longview Asylum for the Insane is 
 a State institution, located six miles north 
 of the city, in the neighborhood of Car- 
 thage. The building, which is of brick, 
 and almost fire-proof, is 612 feet long, 
 is lighted by gas made on the premises, 
 and is heated by hot air and steam. It 
 has large and beautiful pleasure-grounds 
 for the use of the patients. 
 
 The Cincinnati Orphan Asylum was 
 chartered in 1833, and, three years later, 
 a building was erected on Elm Street. 
 In 1861 a new building was put up on 
 Mount Auburn, and is now occupied by 
 the Association. The institution is admi- 
 rably managed. 
 
 The German Protestant Orphan Asy- 
 lum is upon Highland Avenue, Mount 
 Auburn. 
 
 The Children's Home is at 19 and '.'1 
 Park Street; the farm is on College Hill, 
 
Cincinnati.] NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 8 miles from the city, and a branch is es- 
 tablished at No. 1, East Sixth Street. 
 The object of this institution is to pro- 
 vide for orphans, and for children whose 
 parents cannot take care of them. 
 
 The Union Bethel, though originally (in 
 1839) merely a Sunday-school, has become 
 one of the most prominent of the Cincin- 
 nati benevolent institutions. It now em- 
 braces the following departments : River 
 Mission, Visitation of Families, Bethel 
 Church, Bethel School, Relief Sewing- 
 school, Free Reading-room, Cheap Din- 
 ing-hall, and the News-boys' Home. The 
 foundations of a fine building, laid in 1868, 
 have been completed. There is to be one 
 entrance from Front, and two from Yeat- 
 man Street. The building is to contain 
 the following departments : A grand hall 
 capable of accommodating from 2,500 to 
 3,000 (this is finished and in use) ; a cheap 
 temperance restaurant ; a free reading- 
 room ; dormitories ; a people's bath ; a 
 gymnasium ; rooms for Relief Depart- 
 ment and Ladies' Bethel Aid Society, and 
 a Newsboys' Home. This Association 
 is non-denominational. 
 
 The Widows' Home is an institution 
 whose name sufficiently indicates its char- 
 acter. It was originated in 1848, and 
 chartered in 1851. Candidates for ad- 
 mission must be of good character, and, 
 except in certain cases, over 60 years 
 old. The house is opposite the German 
 Orphan Asylum, on Highland Avenue, 
 with very pleasant surroundings. 
 
 The Home for the Friendless, on Court 
 Street, between Central Avenue and John 
 Street, is a handsome edifice of brick 
 with stone trimmings', 54 feet front and 
 4 stories in height. The object of this 
 institution is to reclaim fallen women and 
 to protect virtuous ones who have no 
 friends nor means of livelihood. 
 
 The Women's Christian Association, 
 though strictly a religious society, is 
 practically a great charity, and was or- 
 ganized in June, 1868. Its principal ben- 
 eficiary department is that which pro- 
 vides a boarding-house for homeless 
 women. This house is at 27 Longworth 
 Street, where young women can find 
 neatly-furnished rooms and a comfortable 
 home at prices within the means of the 
 most poorly paid. 
 
 The Young Men's Christian Associa- 
 
 tion has a number of departments, both 
 religious and secular. It is at 200 and 
 202 Vine Street. The building includes 
 a free reading-room, a music-room, fur- 
 nished with a piano, cabinet-organ, etc. ; 
 and a conversation-room, where all sorts 
 of innocent games are encouraged. Dur- 
 ing the cold season the Association pro- 
 vides a place where indigent persons can 
 be fed and lodged free of expense, called 
 the " Strangers' Home." At the corner of 
 John and Columbia Streets a coffee and 
 reading room was established in 1866. 
 Here the prices are very low, and the ar- 
 ticles furnished good. A project is on 
 foot to erect a more suitable building, 
 which it is expected M'ill equal in size 
 and elegance that of the Association in 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The Public Library, formerly in the 
 Mechanics' Institute, occupies the impos- 
 ing structure on Vine Street, above 
 Sixth, originally intended for an opera- 
 house, which plan fell through from want 
 of funds, and the property being involved 
 in law was ordered to be sold at public 
 auction, the Board of Education becom- 
 ing the purchasers. It is a magnificent 
 building, and, when completed for a li- 
 brary, will be entirely fire-proof. There 
 are 23,000 well-selected volumes now in 
 use, and this number is steadily increas- 
 ing at the rate of over a thousand per 
 year. 
 
 The Public Landing, or Levee, as it is 
 sometimes called, lies between Main 
 Street and Broadway, or two long squares 
 in length, well paved and gradually 
 sloping down to the water's edge. Its 
 depth is 700 feet. There is also wharf- 
 age all the way from the foot of Law- 
 rence Street, in the east, to Race Street, 
 in the west, intercepted only by the sus- 
 pension-bridge pier, thus affording five 
 squares of steamboat landing with ac- 
 commodations for as many as forty steam- 
 ers at a time. The levee at all times 
 during high water presents a very ani- 
 mated appearance, and the city is so 
 built as to permit of its extension at any 
 time. 
 
 The Davidson Fountain. — This mag- 
 nificent fountain, the handsomest in 
 America, presented to the city by the 
 late Tyler Davidson, is now in operation, 
 in Fifth Street, market space having been 
 37 
 
Cincinnati.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 ceded by the city for the purpose. The 
 fountain is of bronze, cast in Munich. It 
 rests upon a granite base surrounded by a 
 handsome esplanade, the whole work oc- 
 cupying the entire length of a square, 
 and the space between the curbs on the 
 upper and lower sides of the street. This 
 beautiful improvement has already in- 
 duced the building of several handsome 
 blocks of stone. 
 
 The Masonic Temple, corner of Third 
 and Walnut Streets, is in the Byzantine 
 style of architecture, and is 195 feet by 
 100. It is one of the most convenient 
 and elegant Masonic buildings in the 
 United States. 
 
 The Merchants' Exchange and Chamber 
 of Commerce is on Fourth Street between 
 Main and Walnut, adjoining the First 
 Presbyterian Church, which is noted for 
 having the highest steeple in the city. 
 
 The Exchange is a fine large hall on a 
 level with the street, but stands back 
 in the heart of the square, with stores 
 and offices in front, thus securing immu- 
 nity from the noise and din of the roar- 
 ing thoroughfare. The hall affords stand- 
 ing room for nearly 25,000 people, and is 
 a point of attraction every business day 
 from eleven o'clock a. m. till one o'clock 
 
 P. M. 
 
 The Board of Trade Rooms are in 
 Pike's elegant building on Fourth Street, 
 between Vine and Walnut Streets. The 
 organization is separate and distinct from 
 the Chamber of Commerce, but occupies 
 about the same relation to the commerce 
 of the city. 
 
 Art Galleries. — As yet, a public fine- 
 art gallery has no place among the at- 
 tractions of Cincinnati, but one will be a 
 feature of the McMicken University. The 
 private collections of paintings of rare 
 worth are numerous, but those of Henry 
 Probasco, on Clifton, and Joseph Long- 
 worth, on Walnut Hills, may be mentioned 
 as large and valuable. Visitors arc always 
 politely received. 
 
 In sculpture there are many works of 
 Hiram Powers, who was born and edu- 
 cated in Cincinnati, and still calls it his 
 homo, but they arc all owned by private 
 individuals, except a bust of Washington, 
 to be seen in the Mercantile Library 
 rooms, on Walnut Street above Fourth, 
 
 It is a little remarkable that a city from 
 33 
 
 which graduated such artists as Powers, 
 T. D. Jones, and Clevinger, among sculp- 
 tors, and Sontagg, Beard, T. B. Read, 
 Powell, Johnston, and Frankenstein, 
 among painters, has never had any pub- 
 lic repository of art. 
 
 OTHER BUILDINGS AND PLACES OF 
 INTEREST. 
 
 The Cincinnati Observatory on Mount 
 Adams, near the eastern boundary of the 
 city, is 500 feet above low water, this 
 commanding situation giving great ad- 
 vantages for making astronomical obser- 
 vations. The equatorial telescope with 
 which it is furnished has a focal length 
 of 17| feet, and an object-glass 12 inches 
 in diameter, with a magnifying power of 
 1,400 times. The place is now in a state 
 of dilapidation, and has been practically 
 abandoned as an observatory, from want 
 of support. 
 
 The Water -Works, on East Front 
 Street, near the Little Miami Depot, arc 
 of great magnitude, and, being adapted 
 to the varying stages of water in the 
 Ohio, are an object of curiosity to the 
 stranger. 
 
 There are four pumping-engines, the 
 average capacity of which is a little less 
 than 30,000,000 gallons per day. The 
 average summer consumption by the 
 city is 24,000,000 gallons per day, and 
 during the rest of the year a little less 
 than '14,000,000 gallons per day. The 
 question of water-supply has become 
 serious, and two more engines, with a 
 pumping capacity of 20,000,000 gallons 
 per day, arc called for, in order to be 
 provided in case of accident to the en- 
 gines now in use, or of extraordinary emer- 
 gency, as of lire. 
 
 The reservoir holds only 5,000,000 gal- 
 lons, so that the water is supplied al- 
 most direct from the Ohio River without 
 the necessary process of "settling," but, 
 when the new reservoir in Eden Park is 
 completed, there will be an abundant 
 reserve of water for all purposes and 
 emergencies. 
 
 Lonc/wortlcs Wine-Cellar, at the east. 
 end of Sixth Street, is one of the attrac- 
 tions of the city, the business of wine- 
 growing being comparatively new in this 
 country. This cellar, or, rather, collec- 
 tion of cellars, is admirablv suited for 
 
Cincinnati.] NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI, ROUTE V. 
 
 [Cincinnati. 
 
 the purpose, and contains immense quan- 
 tities of wine. 
 
 Pork-packing Houses are numerous, 
 and a visit to one of them is sure to re- 
 pay the tourist. The details in regard 
 to killing, cutting up, and packing hogs, 
 would be out of place here ; but we 
 would advise the gentlemen, at least, 
 who may come to Cincinnati, to visit some 
 one of the largest of these houses and 
 seethe neatness and dexterity with which 
 these animals can be disposed of at the 
 rate of 200,000 per day. 
 
 " OVEE THE EHINE." 
 
 More than a third of the residents of 
 Cincinnati are Germans, or people of 
 German parentage. They occupy the 
 large section of the city north of the 
 Miami Canal, which enters northwest at 
 the Brighton House, and comes south as 
 far as Eleventh Street, then, turning due 
 cast from Plum, runs away beyond Broad- 
 way, emptying into the Ohio River near 
 the Miami Railroad depot in the extreme 
 eastern part of the city. 
 
 The visitor finds himself in an entirely 
 different country " over the Rhine," for 
 he hears no language but German, 
 and all the sign-boards and even the 
 placards on the walls are in German. 
 The business, the dwellings, beer-gardens, 
 theatres, halls, and churches, all remind 
 the European tourist of Germany, and 
 this as well as a love for the familiar 
 home-name made the German-Americans 
 call the canal after the noble river from 
 whose vine-clad hills their fathers came. 
 
 The halls are a noticeable feature, 
 Arbeiter and Turner Halls being the 
 largest. These are both at the upper end 
 of Walnut Street, and are immense build- 
 ings, each containing, besides very large 
 assembly-rooms, a number of small halls 
 for the accommodation of societies. 
 
 There are several other halls, used 
 mainly by musical societies, of which 
 there are four, embracing over a thou- 
 sand instrumental aud vocal performers. 
 This part of the city is remarkable for its 
 cleanly appearance and the density of its 
 population, tenement-houses being a prom- 
 inent characteristic. 
 
 Edibles of German character and prep- 
 aration, good music, and a good glass of 
 beer or Rhine wine, can always be had in 
 
 this quarter. The beer-cellars are a 
 wonderful feature to those unacquainted 
 with the underground accommodation 
 necessary for brewing and subsequent 
 storage, and they can be found almost 
 anywhere " over the Rhine." 
 
 MAXTTFACTUEES. 
 Cincinnati is steadily progressing in its 
 march to the front rank with the great 
 manufacturing cities of the world, and is 
 now estimated as the third in importance 
 in the United States. Among its chief 
 manufactures, and those that add im- 
 mensely to its importance and revenue, 
 are furniture, steamboats for river and sea- 
 coast trade ; iron-clads for naval warfare, 
 its marine ways and dry-docks affording 
 it special advantages ; machinery of every 
 description, from large first-class steam- 
 engines down to simple portable corn and 
 sugar mills ; church bells and organs ; 
 pianos, gas, water, and steam pipes ; sur- 
 gical instruments and cutlery ; stores and 
 hollow-ware ; clothing, silk and cotton, 
 trunks and valises, carriages and wagons, 
 chemicals and medicines, paints, oils, and 
 varnish, glue, starch, soap, candles, and 
 glycerine ; lard and lard-oil, sashes, win- 
 dow-blinds, doors, and portable houses, 
 ready for shipment ; cooperage, hair- 
 work in every shape ; whiskey, wine, and 
 beer, the excellence of which is unsur- 
 passed. Its high-wines are shipped in 
 great quantities to Europe, Asia, and 
 Africa, and it is conceded by intelligent 
 observers that no other city in the Union 
 sends from its railroad depots and 
 wharves a greater variety of its own 
 manufactures in proportion to its gener- 
 al commerce. 
 
 PEOMEXADES AND DEITES. 
 
 Fourth Street, from Pike Street on the 
 east, to Park Street on the west, is the 
 fashionable promenade. It embraces some 
 of the most elegant pi'ivate residences 
 and beautiful stores in the city ; but there 
 are besides, Eighth Street from Vine west- 
 ward ; Seventh and Sixth Street, from 
 Mound westward. The portion of Free- 
 man Street lying along the Lincoln Park 
 is a favorite promenade. 
 
 Pike Street from Third to Fifth, along 
 the old Longworth homestead, is known 
 as the " Lovers' Walk." 
 
 39 
 
CINCINNATI.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Columbus. 
 
 The drives most esteemed are " the 
 Avenue," from the Brighton House, at 
 the junction of Hamilton Road and Free- 
 man Street, to Spring Grove Cemetery, 
 and thence around Clifton and Avondale, 
 returning to the city by way of Mount 
 A ill 1 11 rii on the extreme cast from the 
 starting-point. These drives afford the 
 best means for obtaining an understand- 
 ing of the location and situation of Cin- 
 cinnati, besides exhibiting the unquestion- 
 able good taste and opulence of its citizens. 
 
 From the Clifton Heights, Spring-Grove 
 Cemetery is seen lying in beautiful repose, 
 and the lovely landscape, undulating and 
 dotted with elegant residences and pretty 
 villas, stretches away far as the eye can 
 reach. 
 
 From Mount Auburn the grandeur of 
 the Ohio valleys may be appreciated. 
 The view from that elevation takes in the 
 sinuosities of the Ohio and the serrated 
 hills among which it winds for several 
 miles, while the great, noisy city is seen 
 lying in smoky obscurity, almost at the 
 tourist's feet. This view is only equalled 
 in beauty and extent by that from the 
 more eastern elevation of Eden Park. 
 
 OEMETEEIES. 
 
 Spring Grove, one of the most beautiful 
 cemeteries in the West, lies three miles 
 northwest of Cincinnati in the valley of 
 the Mah-ket-e-wa (Mill Creek), and is ap- 
 proached by a splendid avenue, one 
 hundred feet wide ; also by the Cincin- 
 nati, Hamilton & Dayton Railway, which 
 has a station immediately adjoining the 
 grounds. 
 
 The site was selected in 1844, and the 
 charter granted in 1845. The place was 
 Darned Spring Grove because abounding 
 with springs and groves of trees. It em- 
 braces about 450 acres, the greater por- 
 tion of which once lay flat and marshy. 
 The western border slopes upward into a 
 noble spur, along which a fine carriage- 
 way has been constructed. The plan is 
 designed to preserve and impart a natural 
 appearance, and to conceal the hand of 
 art. Fine avenues wind around miniature 
 lakes, shaded by many varieties of indi- 
 genous trees and shrubs, and lead the 
 visitor to an ever-changing landscape, an 
 effect produced by rare perfection of 
 skill and taste in landscape-gardening. 
 40 
 
 The monuments are numerous, and dis- 
 play taste and judgment. Many of them 
 are half concealed by masses of luxuriant 
 foliage. 
 
 The citizens erected a fine bronze 
 statue, in 18G4, to the memory of the Ohio 
 Volunteers in the war for the Union, 
 which is worthy of note. It represents a 
 United States soldier on guard, standing 
 on a granite pedestal at the junction of 
 Lake Shore and Central Avenues. The 
 soldiers' graves lie in two circular lots a 
 little distance from the monument, and 
 embrace an area of 22,532 square feet. 
 
 St. Bernard Cemetery, in sight of Spring 
 Grove, is an old burying-place of the 
 Roman Catholic Church. It is little else 
 than an accumulation of grave-stones. 
 
 The Wesleyan Cemetery is a Methodist 
 ground, and can be taken on the way to 
 Spring Grove, situated as it is near Cuni- 
 minsville. 
 
 The Jewish Cemetery is in the eastern 
 suburbs of the city, but it is small, and 
 not remarkable for landscape beauty or 
 monumental attractiveness. 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 FEW YORK TO CINCIXXATI. 
 
 Via Pan-handle Route. {Time, 2S lirs.—Fare, 
 $20.) 
 
 Tins is identical with Route IV., as far 
 as Columbus, Ohio. (See page 25.) 
 
 At Columbus the track of the Pills- 
 burg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway is 
 left; the through-cars for Cincinnati 
 taking the track of the Little Miami 
 Railway, 
 
 Stations. — Columbus, 638 miles from 
 New York ; Alton, 614 ; West Jefferson, 
 652 ; London (conuects with London 
 Branch of Cincinnati, Sandusky & Cleve- 
 land Railway), 663 ; South Charleston, 
 674 ; Cedarville, 685 ; Xenia (connects 
 with Dayton, Xenia & Western Railway, 
 and with Branch to Springfield), 693; 
 Corwin, 707; Fort Ancient, VI 7 ; Morrow 
 (connects with Cincinnati & Muskingum 
 Valley Railway), 722 ; South Lebanon, 
 726; Foster's, 731; Loveland (connects 
 with Marietta & Cincinnati Railway), 735 ; 
 Milford, 744; Cincinnati, 758. 
 
 Columbus, O. (638 miles). (S.e 
 page 26.) 
 
London.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 ILondon, €>. (663 miles), 13 a 
 flourishing village, aud the capital of 
 Madison County. It contains a fine 
 Union school-house. The London Branch 
 of the Cincinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland 
 Railway connects here. 
 
 §out£i CSaarlcsloia, O. (6*74 
 miles), is a beautiful little village. 
 
 Xenia, ©. (693 miles), is, like a 
 large proportion of the Ohio towns, regu- 
 larly and handsomely built, the streets 
 being shaded with large forest-trees. It 
 is the capital of Greene County, and con- 
 tains a handsome court-house. It is 
 upon the Little Miami River, and has a 
 good water-power, which is utilized by a 
 number of manufactures. The sur- 
 rounding country is undulating, fertile, 
 aud highly cultivated ; limestone is abun- 
 dant in the vicinity, and all these elements 
 of prosperity are rendered of tenfold 
 value by the railroad facilities possessed 
 by the place. The Dayton & Xenia and 
 Dayton & Western Railways connect at 
 this point. A Branch to Yellow Springs 
 and Springfield diverges here. 
 
 Yellow Springs, ©. (10 miles 
 from Xenia), is a favorite resort for resi- 
 dents of Cincinnati, and is the site of 
 Antioch College. East of the college is a 
 picturesque ravine, presenting varied 
 attractions to the tourist. The Yelloiv 
 Spring is about one-half mile northeast 
 of the college. It flows directly from the 
 limestone rock, and discharges over 600 
 gallons a minute. At Clifton, near by, the 
 scenery is charming and varied, its 
 interest being enhanced by the Little 
 Miami River, which here in a distance of 
 a few miles falls 200 feet. The water 
 has excavated in the solid limestone a 
 narrow channel or canon of great depth. 
 The hotels are excellent, and no pleasant- 
 er summer resort can be desired. This 
 place is only 9 miles from Springfield, at 
 the junction of the Branch with the Cin- 
 cinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland Railway, 
 and the Atlantic & Great Western Divis- 
 ion of the Erie Railway. 
 
 Morrow, O. C722 miles), is a thriv- 
 ing village at the junction with the Cincin- 
 nati t£' Muskingum Valley, formerly known 
 as the Cincinnati & Zanesville Railway. 
 
 H<ovelanu, 4>. (735 miles), is the 
 junction of the Marietta <£ Cincinnati 
 Railway. 
 
 Milforel, O. (744 miles), is a flour- 
 ishing village on the opposite bank of the 
 Little Miami River to the railroad. It is 
 connected with the railway station by a 
 bridge. 
 
 Cincinnati, ©. (758 miles), has 
 already been described. (Sec page 31.) 
 Connections are made here with all di- 
 vergent railways, and with the Cincinnati 
 & Louisville U. S. mail line steamers. 
 
 BO UTE VII. 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Via Pennsylvania Central and connecting 
 Railways, lenovm as the Pan-handle Route. 
 (Time, 42 hrs.—Pare, $27.) 
 
 As far as Bradford Junction, Ohio, on 
 the Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway, this route is identical with 
 Route IV. (See page 25.) At Bradford 
 Junction the road branches ; one division 
 running to Chicago (Route IV.) ; the 
 other, which we now follow, running to 
 Indianapolis, and there connecting with 
 the St. Louis, Vandcdia, Terre Haute <& 
 Indianapolis Railway for St. Louis. 
 
 Stations on Columbus, Chicago & 
 Indiana Central Railway. — Bradford 
 Junction, 721 miles from New York ; 
 Gettysburg, 725 ; Greenville (connects 
 with Dayton & Union Railway), 722 ; 
 Weaver's, 738 ; New Madison, 743 ; 
 Urley's, 747; New Paris, 752; Rich- 
 mond (connects with Dayton & West- 
 ern Railway, and Cincinnati, Richmond 
 & Chicago Railway, composed of Cin- 
 cinnati, Hamilton & Dayton Railway from 
 Cincinnati to Richmond, and of Columbus, 
 Chicago & Indiana Central Railway from 
 Richmond to Chicago), 758 ; Centrcville, 
 764 ; Germantown, 771 ; Cambridge 
 Citv (connects with railways diverging), 
 773 ; Dublin, 775 ; Lewisville, 782 ; Og- 
 den, 788 ; Raysville, 791 ; Knightstown, 
 792 ; Charlottesville, 797 ; Greenfield, 
 805 ; Philadelphia, 809 ; Cumberland, 
 815 ; Indianapolis (connects with all rail- 
 ways centring there), 826. 
 
 Stations on the St. Louis, Vandalia, 
 Terre Haute & Indianapolis Railway. 
 — Indianapolis, 826 ; Fairview, 829 ; 
 Bridgeport, 835 ; Oak-plain, 839 ; Plain- 
 field, 840; Cartersburg, 843; Belleville, 
 815; Clayton, 846; Amo, 851; Coates- 
 41 
 
Bradford Junction.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Greenfield. 
 
 villc, 854 ; Fillmore, 859 ; Greencastlc, 
 865 ; Junction (connects with Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Railway), 
 8G6 ; Hamricka, 870 ; Reelsville, 873 ; 
 Eagles, 870 ; Harmony, 879; Brazil, 883 ; 
 Newburg, 885 ; Staunton, 887 ; Cleve- 
 land, 889; Scelyville, 891; Terre Haute 
 (connects with Evansville & Crawfords- 
 ville Railway, for Vincennes, Evansville, 
 and Henderson), 899 ; Woodville, 909 ; 
 Griffiths, 912; Marshall, 916; Auburn, 
 922 ; Martinsville, 927 ; Casey, 934 ; 
 Greenup, 943 ; Pleasantville, 948 ; Spit- 
 ler's, 956; Teutopolis, 962; Effingham 
 (connects with Chicago Division of Illinois 
 Central Railway, for Chicago and Cairo), 
 966 ; Fenkhouser, 970 ; Altamont, 978 ; 
 St. Elmo, 984 ; Brownstown, 990 ; Bluff 
 City, 993 ; Vandalia (connects with main 
 line of Illinois Central Railway, for Du- 
 buque and Dunlcith), 997 ; Hagerstown, 
 1,001 ; Mulberry Grove, 1,007 ; Hender- 
 son, 1,011; Greenville, 1,015; Stubble- 
 field, 1,019 ; Pocahontas, 1,025 ; Oakdale, 
 1,029 ; Highland, 1,034 ; St.Jacob's, 1,039 ; 
 Troy, 1,046; Confidence, 1,049 ; Collius- 
 ville, 1,053 ; Hunter's, 1,057 ; East St. 
 Louis, 1,064 ; St. Louis, 1,065. 
 
 18 radio rd .IsiBicftioii, O. (721 
 miles). (See page 28.) 
 
 CHreenvIlle, ©. (722 miles), is the 
 capital of Darke County, and one of 
 the oldest towns in the State. It is 
 noted as being the site of Fort Greenville, 
 built by General Wayne in 1793, and as 
 being the spot where he concluded his 
 treaty with the Indians. The Dayton <b 
 Union Railway connects here. 
 
 ISichmond, find. (753 miles), is 
 one of the most beautiful and prosperous 
 towns in Indiana. It is situated on the 
 east fork of Whitewater River, in Wayne 
 County, and in an agricultural region of 
 great fertility. It has an abundant 
 water-power, and is the scat of numerous 
 mills and manufactories. In the manu- 
 facture of agricultural implements and 
 farm machinery Richmond has especial 
 prominence. It is the centre of a con- 
 siderable trade with the surrounding 
 country, has many pleasing features, is 
 well built, and contains some handsome 
 churches and residences. The popula- 
 tion of Richmond and Wayne County is 
 largely composed of Quakers. They are 
 noted for their enterprise, thrift, and en- 
 42 
 
 lightenment, and Wayne County ranks 
 ain<>ii!_ r the first in the State for prosperity 
 and the general diffusion of education. 
 Richmond is the seat of Earlham College, 
 a Quaker institution; and is also the 
 place of the Indiana Yearly Heeling of 
 the Orthodox church of the Quaker de- 
 nomination — embracing the territory of 
 Eastern and Northern Indiana, part of 
 Western Ohio, Kansas, and part of Illi- 
 nois. The Dayton & Western and Cincin- 
 nati, Richmond &' Chicago (composed of 
 the Cincinnati, Hamilton <£• Dayton, and 
 one of the divisions of the Columbus, 
 Chicago & Indiana Central) Railways 
 connect here. Population in 1870, 9,443. 
 
 CentrevilEc, Ind. (764 miles), 
 is the county-seat of Wayne County. Ic 
 is pleasantly located, and has a number 
 of handsome residences. Its trade is not 
 large, and is confined to its immediate 
 vicinity, owing to the greater impor- 
 tance of the neighboring town cf Rich- 
 mond. 
 
 Cambridge City, Ind. (773 
 miles), is also in Wayne County, and is a 
 growing town on the Whitewater River. 
 It has some importance as a railway 
 centre. Its manufacturing interests are 
 considerable, and increasing. The fol- 
 lowing railways connect here : Whitewater 
 Valley ; Fort Wayne, Muncie & Cincin- 
 nati ; Cincinnati & Indianapolis Junction, 
 and the Columbus (Ind.) & Cambridge 
 City Branch of Jeffcrsonvillc, Madison tfc 
 Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 Miaig-lif stowm, Ind. (792 miles), 
 a thriving town, situated on Blue River, 
 has considerable manufacturing and busi- 
 ness interests compared with its popula- 
 tion, and is surrounded by a fertile 
 region. One and a half mile from this 
 place are mineral springs that once had 
 considerable local celebrity, and were 
 quite a resort for invalids. The building 
 located at their site was purchased a few 
 years ago by the State, and has since 
 been greatly enlarged and converted into 
 a Soldiers' Home for the disabled soldiers 
 of Indiana, and the indigent widows and 
 orphans of the soldiers from Indiana, 
 who fell during the war. 
 
 Greenfield, ln«l. (805 miles), 
 the county-seat of Hancock County, is 
 situated in a productive region, and is 
 a thriving place. 
 
Indianapolis.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. [Indianapolis, 
 
 Ssadia-mapolis, Ind. (826 miles), 
 is the capital and the largest city of Indi- 
 ana. It is on the west fork of White 
 River, and is nearly in the geographical 
 centre of the State. It is situated on an 
 extensive and very fertile plain, and is a 
 striking illustration of the rapid progress 
 in the western part of this country ; for 
 in 1820, when the capital was located 
 here, the whole country within a radius 
 of forty miles was an unbroken forest. 
 In the centre of the original plot of the 
 city is a circular park, and from the ex- 
 terior corners of the four squares en- 
 closing this park radiate four avenues 
 that intersect (with the exception of a 
 few minor avenues) the other streets 
 diagonally; while, with these exceptions, 
 the streets cross each other at right 
 angles. Meanwhile the city has extended 
 greatly on all sides of the original plot. 
 The principal business-houses were long 
 confined to Washington Street ; now South 
 Meridian Street has most of the large 
 wholesale and jobbing establishments, 
 and the retail business is rapidly extend- 
 ing up Pennsylvania Street, and up and 
 down Illinois Street, on either side of 
 Washington. The latter is a handsome 
 street, 120 feet in width. The great 
 width of all the streets contributes much 
 to the attractiveness and health of the 
 city. 
 
 Indianapolis is one of the greatest rail- 
 road centres in the West, and it has been 
 termed " The Railroad City." No fewer 
 than twelve completed railways converge 
 here, and two others are projected, one 
 of which is under contract. 
 
 The health of the city is shown by the 
 fact that the death-rate the past year 
 was considerably less then one per cent, 
 of the population. 
 
 Indianapolis is also noted for its supe- 
 rior system of public graded schools, 
 sustained by a large annual revenue from 
 taxation, and affording, through the vari- 
 ous grades, all the branches of a com- 
 plete education. 
 
 Its manufacturing interests are various 
 and extensive, and are increasing rapidly. 
 Being but 40 miles from the eastern out- 
 crop of the great coal-fields of Western 
 Indiana, which contain about 8,000 square 
 miles, and which are penetrated by five 
 railways diverging from Indianapolis, the 
 
 city has an inexhaustible supply of cheap 
 coal, of a superior quality, offering great 
 inducements to manufacturing of all de- 
 scriptions, and especially (owing to pecu- 
 liar virtues in certain varieties of the 
 coal) to the manufacture of iron and iron 
 products. 
 
 CntJRCIIES. 
 
 There arc about fifty churches in the 
 city, besides a number of missions, and 
 congregations that have no houses of wor- 
 ship of their own. Of the churches tho 
 principal in respect of architectural beau- 
 ty are the following : 
 
 Episcopal. — Christ Church, northeast 
 corner of Meridian and Circle Streets ; 
 Si. Paul's, southeast corner of Illinois and 
 New York Streets. 
 
 Methodist. — Meridian Street M. E. 
 Church, southwest corner of Meridian and 
 New York Streets ; Roberts Park M. E. 
 Church, northeast corner of Vermont and 
 Delaware Streets ; Grace Church, north- 
 east corner of Market and East Streets. 
 
 Presbyterian. — First Church, south- 
 west corner of Pennsylvania and New 
 York Streets ; Second Church, northwest 
 corner of Pennsylvania and Vermont 
 Streets. 
 
 Baptist. — First Church, northeast 
 corner of Pennsylvania and New York 
 Streets. 
 
 Roman Catholic. — Cathedral, on South 
 Tennessee Street. 
 
 Congregational. — Plymouth Church, 
 northwest corner of Meridian and Circle 
 Streets. 
 
 All these are in the Gothic style, and 
 are elegant edifices. Other prominent 
 churches are : Third Presbyterian, north- 
 east corner of Illinois and Ohio Streets ; 
 Fourth Presbyterian southwest corner of 
 Delaware and Market Streets ; Jewish 
 Synagogue, East Market Street ; Christian 
 Chapel, corner of Ohio and Delaware 
 Streets. 
 
 STATE INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 The State - House is on Washington 
 Street, at its intersection with Tennessee 
 Street. It is a venerable-looking edifice, 
 built in 1835, and is of the Doric order 
 of architecture, save its incongruous 
 dome. At the time of its erection, it was 
 regarded as an elegant and imposing 
 43 
 
Indianapolis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Greencastle. 
 
 structure ; but its exterior has become 
 shattered and defaced by time. It con- 
 tains the Governor's rooms, and those of 
 the State geologist ; the State archives 
 and State Library, and the Assembly 
 Chambers. 
 
 The Stale Lunatic Asylum was founded 
 in 18-18, and the buildings have twice 
 been enlarged. Their total cost has been 
 §350,000. The principal building is a 
 noble structure, in the renaissance style, 
 and has accommodations for 525 patients. 
 It is one and a half mile west of the 
 city limits, is lighted with gas, and has a 
 system of water-works of its own. Its 
 grounds consist of 160 acres, a portion 
 of which is beautifully adorned. 
 
 The Stale Institute for the Blind was 
 founded in 1847, and cost §300,000. It 
 is on North Street, between Illinois and 
 Meridian, and contains eight acres. The 
 main building has a centre and two wings, 
 presenting a front of 150 feet, and is five 
 stories in height. Each of the three 
 sections is surmounted by a Corinthian 
 cupola, the centre having a portico of the 
 Iouic order. The material of the build- 
 ing is sandstone, and stucco and brick. 
 
 The Stale Institute for the Deaf and 
 Dumb was likewise founded in 1848. 
 The present buildings have been erected 
 at a cost of $220,000. Connected with 
 the institution are 105 acres of ground, 
 worth as many thousands of dollars. 
 The grounds more immediately surround- 
 ing the buddings are beautifully laid out 
 in walks and drives, and are elaborately 
 adorned with shrubbery, flowering plants, 
 forest and shade trees, etc. It is per- 
 haps the most beautiful spot, in the 
 summer-time, in the city. The Institute 
 is just east of the city limits. 
 
 The Reformatory for Women and Girls, 
 now in course of erection, just east of 
 the city, will be a large and commodious 
 structure, answering the purpose of a re- 
 formatory and prison for female offenders. 
 
 OTHER TKOMINENT BUILDINGS, ETO. 
 
 The United Slates Arsenal, one mile 
 north by east of the city limits, is a hand- 
 some building. It has connected with it 
 60 acres of ground, and has picturesque 
 surroundings. 
 
 The Northiocstern Christian University, 
 44 
 
 in the northeastern suburb of the city, 
 is a flourishing institution, built in 1852. 
 It is open to both sexes. The edifice is 
 handsome and commodious, and is beau- 
 tifully located amid forest-trees. 
 
 Other prominent buildings arc: Odd- 
 Fellows' Hall, of the Byzantine order, 
 corner of Washington and Pennsylvania 
 Streets ; Academy of Music, of the re- 
 naissance order, corner of Illinois and 
 Ohio Streets ; Masonic Hall, of the Doric 
 order, corner of Washington and Ten- 
 nessee Streets ; United Stales Post- Office 
 building, corner of Pennsylvania and 
 Market Streets, containing the Post- 
 Office, United States Court-Rooms, and 
 offices of various Federal officials ; Journal 
 and Sentinel newspaper buildings ; Baker 
 House, Mozart Hall, etc. There are also 
 many elegant residences and business 
 blocks, and several pretty parks. 
 
 The Union Depot, with a length of 420 
 feet, fronts on Louisiana Street, between 
 Illinois and Meridian, and is one of the 
 most spacious and convenient structures 
 of the kind in the country — all of the 
 twelve lines of railway that centre here 
 receiving and discharging their passen- 
 gers at this one depot. 
 
 The following railways centre here : 
 Indianapolis & Cincinnati, and Lafay- 
 ette & Indianapolis, now consolidated 
 under the name of Indianapolis, Cincin- 
 nati & Lafayette ; Indianapolis, Bloom! ny- 
 lon & Western; St. Louis, Alton, Tcrre 
 Haute & Indianapolis ; St. Louis, Van- 
 dalia, Terre Haute & Indianapolis ; Indi- 
 anapolis & Vincennes ; Jeffcrsonvillc <t 
 Indianapolis, and Madison & Indiana jmlis, 
 now consolidated under the title of Jeffer- 
 sonville, Madison & Indianapolis; Cincin- 
 nati Junction ; Cleveland, Columbus, Cin- 
 cinnati <£* Indianapolis ; Indianapolis, 
 Peru db Chicago ; and Columbus, Chicago 
 & Indiana Central. Population in 1800, 
 18,011; in 1870, 40,930. 
 
 PlaiEifU'ld, Intl. (810 ni'nVs), is 
 a growing village, surrounded by a flour- 
 ishing agricultural region. It is the seat 
 of the Western Yearly Meeting of the 
 Orthodox Quakers of Western and South- 
 ern Indiana, and part of Western Illinois. 
 The Indiana House of Refuge (for boys) 
 is located here. 
 
 CwreeiK'JJMilo, Ind. (805 miles), 
 is the county-scat of Putnam County, and 
 
Brazil.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [Vandalia. 
 
 is noted for the great educational advan- 
 tages it affords. In addition to the usual 
 public and high schools, it contains a 
 young ladies' academy, and a collegiate 
 institution known as the Indiana Anbury 
 University. It is pleasantly situated on 
 high table-land, and is the commercial 
 centre of a rich farming and extensive 
 stock-raising region. Various manufac- 
 tories have also sprung up here within 
 the past few years. The Louisville, New 
 Albany & Chicago Railway connects here ; 
 and it is also on the line of the St. Louis, 
 Alton, Terre Haute & Indianapolis Rail- 
 way. Population, 3,232. 
 
 JSrazil, Esad. (883 miles), is a vil- 
 lage that has recently exhibited a re- 
 markable growth by reason of the devel- 
 opment and utilization of the coal-fields 
 and iron region of Western Indiana, of 
 which it is the central and most impor- 
 tant point. By virtue of its favorable 
 location, manufactories are rapidly spring- 
 ing up, numerous collieries and blast-fur- 
 naces have been established in the vicinity, 
 and the population is rapidly increasing. 
 Population in 1870, 2,773. 
 
 'i'errc Haute, Ind. (899 miles), 
 the capital of Vigo County, is on the 
 western border of Harrison Prairie, one 
 of the most fertile and attractive sections 
 of the State. It is beautifully situated 
 on the east bank of the Wabash, at an 
 elevation of about 60 feet above the level 
 of the river. The streets are wide, cross 
 each other at right angles, and are abun- 
 dantly provided with shade-trees. Some 
 portions of the place present quite a 
 rural aspect, gardens and ornamental 
 grounds being attached to many of the 
 residences. It contains a fine court- 
 house, a town-hall, several fine public 
 halls, and a number of churches, some of 
 which are very handsome. The river is 
 spanned at this point by a fine bridge. 
 The trade of Terre Haute is large, and its 
 facilities for the shipment of grain, etc., 
 unusually good. The Wabash & Erie Ca- 
 nal passes through the town, and the fol- 
 lowing railways connect here : the Evans- 
 ville <& Crawfordsville — now completed, 
 except a short section between Rockville 
 and Crawfordsville, and being extended, 
 also, from Rockville to Chicago, of which 
 extension all but the section between 
 Danville, 111., and Rockville is completed ; 
 
 the St. Louis, Alton, Terre Haute & 
 Indianapolis ; and the St. Louis, Van- 
 dalia, Terre Haute & Indianapolis, over 
 which we are now travelling. The portion 
 of the latter route between Terre Haute 
 and St.Louis was opened in July, 1870. By 
 this road a distance of 25 miles is saved, 
 and two lines of communication between 
 Terre Haute and St. Louis are secured. 
 The city has also a considerable trade by 
 the river, which is navigable a part of the 
 year as far as and above this point. 
 
 Terre Haute has excellent education- 
 al advantages. St. Mary's, a Catholic Sem- 
 inary of considerable note, for the edu- 
 cation of young ladies, is near this city. 
 
 The State Normal School, an institution 
 to qualify students as teachers, is located 
 here. Its cost is $230,000; and its lo- 
 cation at Terre Haute was secured by a 
 donation of $50,000 and the gift of the 
 grounds. 
 
 By reason of its proximity to the coal- 
 fields, the manufacturing interests of the 
 place are rapidly extending. Population 
 in 1870, 17,105. 
 
 Marshall, 111. (916 miles), is the 
 capital of Clarke County. It is situ- 
 ated in a rich agricultural region, and is a 
 growing place. 
 
 4wreenaap, 111. (943 miles), is lo- 
 cated upon Embarras Prairie, and until 
 about twelve years ago was the capital 
 of Cumberland County. At that date 
 the capital was removed to Prairie City, 
 which had a depressing effect on the 
 growth of Greenup. Its population hard- 
 ly exceeds 800 ; but its prospects, by 
 reason of its recently-acquired railway 
 facilities, are more promising than be- 
 fore. The surrounding country is well 
 adapted to farming purposes. 
 
 Efflimg-lisaiii, 111. (966 miles), is 
 the capital of Effingham County, and 
 the junction of the Chicago Branch of the 
 Illinois Central Railway. It is situated 
 near the Little Wabash River, on a slight 
 eminence, is well drained, and nearly sur- 
 rounded by a small belt of timber. It 
 has a large trade, which is increasing 
 rapidly, as are also its manufacturing 
 interests. Bricks, especially, are made 
 here in large quantities. Population, 
 about 2,500. 
 
 Vandalia, 111. (997 miles), the 
 capital of Fayette Countv, was at one 
 45 
 
GltEENVILLE.J 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 time the capital of Illinois, and was then 
 a very prosperous place. After the re- 
 moval of the capital to Springfield, the 
 population became very much reduced ; 
 but, with the railroad connections which 
 it now enjoys, it is entering upon a new 
 era of prosperity. It is situated on the 
 Kaskaskia Jiivcr, and is the junction 
 with the main line of the Illinois Central 
 Railway. 
 
 Cjrrcciivlllc, 111. (1,015 miles), is 
 the capital of Bond County, and is a 
 prosperous place, upon the east bank of 
 Shoal Creek. It has the greatest eleva- 
 tion along the route between Terre Haute 
 and St. Louis. On the north is some 
 timbered land, and on the south a fine 
 prairie. Its trade with the surrounding 
 country is good, and its manufacturing 
 advantages are excellent. Population, 
 about 2,500. 
 
 Ilig-Baiaaiul, 111. (1,034 miles), is 
 an enterprising and flourishing town. 
 Its inhabitants are mainly Germans. It is 
 a place of considerable business ; and, 
 for its population, its manufacturing in- 
 dustries are both various and extensive. 
 It is pleasantly situated in a fertile and 
 healthful region. Population, about 2,700. 
 
 East St. E^ouis, Ell. (1,064 
 miles), is the point where all routes reach- 
 ing St. Louis from the east terminate, 
 pending the building of the great bridge 
 over the Mississippi, described under the 
 head of St. Louis. 
 
 ST. LOUIS. 
 
 The city of St. Louis is situated geo- 
 graphically almost in the centre of the 
 great valley of the Mississippi or basin 
 of the continent, on the west bank of the 
 Mississippi River, and aboub half-way 
 between St. Paul and New Orleans, and 
 Pittsburg and Denver City, and by this 
 route 1,065 miles from New York. 
 
 The topography of St. Louis County 
 consists of a system of ridges branching 
 from a water-shed between the Missouri, 
 Meramec and Mississippi Rivers. This 
 water-shed has a general altitude of 200 
 feet above the Mississippi River, and lias 
 numerous small ridges or arms branching 
 from it and winding in serpentine courses, 
 maintaining this general altitude along 
 their summits, and terminating in bluffs 
 46 
 
 or low escarpments and declining grounds 
 toward the Meramec, Missouri, a 'id Mis- 
 sissippi Rivers. 
 
 The city is built geographically on the 
 ends or termination of this ridge system, 
 extending some 12 miles up and down 
 the river, the ground rising gently from 
 the river back for one mile to Seventeenth 
 Street, which follows in part the apex of 
 the first ridge, and is 150 feet above the 
 river. The ground then gently declines, 
 and rises in a second ridge at Twenty- 
 fifth Street, or Jefferson Avenue, and 
 parts of Grand Avenue, and again slopes 
 and rises in a ridge at Cote Brilliante, or 
 Wilson's Ilill, that is, four miles west of 
 the river. This point is some 200 feet 
 ahove the river, and overlooks the city. 
 
 While New York is limited to a barren, 
 rocky island, Philadelphia to a low ridge 
 between the Delaware and Schuylkill 
 Rivers, Washington City to a flat, sterile, 
 uninteresting region, Chicago to land from 
 5 to 15 feet above Lake Michigan, and 
 swampy prairie beyond, Cincinnati to a 
 small circuit surrounded by steep rocky 
 hills, St. Louis has not only the most 
 natural contour of surface for elevation 
 of residence streets, but also deep clay 
 over the limestone for brick, cellars and 
 sewerage ; foundation quarries of build- 
 ing-rock in all parts of the city — wells of 
 pure water in the deep clays in many 
 parts of the city, natural sewerage and 
 dome-shaped hills for water-works, and 
 essentially combines all the material re- 
 sources for a great city. 
 
 St. Louis is well built, but its archi- 
 tecture is more substantial than showy. 
 The wide, paved streets, the spacious 
 levee and commodious warehouses ; the 
 mills, machine-shops, and manufacti 
 the fine hotels, churches, and public 
 buildings ; the universities, charitable 
 institutions, public schools, and libra- 
 ries; the growing parks, beautiful Fair 
 grounds, and botanical gardens, consti- 
 tute an array of excellences and attrac- 
 tions of which any city may justly be 
 proud. The appearance of the citj 
 lie.' eastern bank of the Mississippi is im- 
 posing. At East St. Louis the eye some- 
 times commands a view of as many as LOO 
 steamboats lying at the St. Louis i 
 
 In 1762, a grant was made by the 
 Governor-General of Louisiana, then a 
 

 
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 NEW YOEK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 French province, to Pierre Liquest La- 
 clede and his partners, composing the 
 " Lousiana Fur Company," to establish 
 trading-posts on the Mississippi ; and on 
 the 15th of February, 1764, the principal 
 one was established where the city now 
 stands, and was named St. Louis. In 
 1803 all Louisiana was ceded to the 
 United States. In 1812 all of Louisiana 
 north of the 33d degree of latitude was 
 organized as Missouri Territory. In 1822 
 St. IiOuis was chartered as a city. 
 
 The first census was taken in 1704, 
 and the population was then 120 ; in 1780 
 it was 687 ; in 1788, 1,197 ; in 181 1, 1,400 ; 
 in 1820, 4,928; in 1830, 5,852; in 1840, 
 10,469 ; in 1850, 74,439 ; in 1860, 160,773 ; 
 and in 1870, 312,963. 
 
 In 1813, the first brick house was 
 erected ; in 1812, the first steamboat tied 
 up at the levee; and in 1829, the "keel- 
 boat," once the only means of reaching 
 the city by the river, disappeared for- 
 ever. 
 
 By a vote of the people in the summer 
 of 1870, the neighboring city of Caron- 
 delet became incorporated with St. Louis. 
 It was formerly a French village, and 
 went by the name of Vide Poche (empty 
 pocket). It is now the centre of a great 
 iron interest, and has numerous furnaces 
 and mills. The city of St. Louis has liter- 
 ally grown around and absorbed it. The 
 description of the inhabitants of Caron- 
 delet, in 1803, as given by Monsignor 
 I'errin du Lac — a French traveller — is 
 very striking. In his account of his trav- 
 els, published in Marseilles after his return 
 to France, he says : " They differ from the 
 neighboring savages in nothing but their 
 sour touts." At this time according to 
 the same traveller, St. Ferdinand, which 
 is still a village, 10 or 12 miles from St. 
 Louis, was the largest and most prosper- 
 ous town in Upper Louisiana. 
 
 The " Philadelphia system " of number- 
 ing the houses has been adopted here, all 
 streets running parallel to the river being 
 numbered north and south from Market 
 Street ; while on all streets running west 
 from the river the numbering commences 
 at the wharf. One hundred numbers are 
 allowed to each block, the odd ones 
 being on the north and west sides of the 
 streets, and the even ones on the soutn 
 and east. To illustrate the convenience of 
 
 the system we will suppose a person 
 wishes to find 513 Pine Street, which is a 
 street running west from the levee ; he 
 will be compelled to ask no questions, 
 but will at once understand that it is the 
 seventh number from the corner of Fifth 
 Street, on the north side of Pine. Front 
 Street, which is 100 feet wide, extends 
 along the levee, and is built up with mas- 
 sive stone warehouses, which present an 
 imposing appearance from the river, 
 upon which they front. This street, with 
 Main and Second, both parallel to it, is 
 the location of the principal wholesale 
 houses. Fourth Street is the fashionable 
 promenade, and contains the leading retail 
 stores. Grand Avenue is 12 miles long, 
 running parallel with the river, and form- 
 ing a grand broad-way from the north to 
 the south end of the city, and is destined 
 in the future, with its fair-grounds, its 
 great parks, cathedrals, churches, water- 
 works, and private residences, to be the 
 boulevard of the Western Continent, al- 
 though at present it but gives the promise 
 of what is to be. Washington Avenue, 
 one of the widest and finest in the city, 
 runs at right angles to those previously 
 mentioned as descending to the river. It is 
 at the foot of this avenue that the great 
 railroad bridge, to be described hereaftci, 
 is located. 
 
 HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, AND CLTTB8. 
 
 Hotels. — The Southern, which is on the 
 square bounded by Walnut, Fourth, Fifth, 
 and Elm Streets, will attract every stranger 
 in that quarter by the elegance of its ex- 
 terior. It is of enormous size, being 270 
 feet long on Walnut Street, and 113 feet 
 on Fourth and Fifth Streets. The foun- 
 dations were laid in 1858, and the work 
 completed in 1862. It is built of Athens 
 stone, closely resembling marble, in the 
 Anglo-Italian style, from designs by 
 George J. Barnett, and i3 six stories high. 
 The gentlemen's dining-room, ladies' or- 
 dinary and grand parlor, are magnificent 
 apartments. The Southern Hotel is the 
 finest in the Mississippi Valley. 
 
 The Planter's is a very largo and fine 
 hotel, and occupies the entire square on 
 Fourth Street between Pine and Chestnut. 
 It has been a favorite house for many 
 years. 
 
 The Barnum Hotel is a large and wcll- 
 47 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 built brick bouse, on the corner of Wal- 
 nut and Second Streets. It is near the 
 river, and is well kept. 
 
 The Laclede Hotel occupies a good lo- 
 cality on the corner of Fifth and Chestnut 
 Streets. It is a new building, is of easy 
 access, and is a good house. 
 
 The Everett House, Olive Street, St. 
 Nicholas, and Broadway Hotels, are all 
 well known and reputable hotels. 
 
 Restaurants. — French's Restaurant 
 and ladies' dining-hall, on the northwest 
 corner of Fifth and Fine Streets, or No. 
 201 North Fifth Street, is a fine three- 
 story brick building, with large dining- 
 hall, and is the most popular place of the 
 kind in the city. Other first-class restau- 
 rants are: 
 
 Binder's & Beer's, No. 910 Olive 
 Street. 
 
 Louis C. Game, southwest corner of 
 Ninth and Olive Streets. 
 
 Cafferetla, No. 101 North Twelfth 
 Street. 
 
 Lavielle, Warner & Co.'s restaurant, in 
 connection with the Southern Hotel, No. 
 107 South Fourth Street. 
 
 Lomond Pezotte, No. 200 North Fifth 
 Street. 
 
 Nicholas Cantine, No. 408 Washington 
 Avenue. 
 
 Hotel- Garni Restaurant, northeast cor- 
 ner of Fourth and Elm Streets. 
 
 Clubs. — Gcrmania Club, on the south- 
 west corner of Eighth and Gratiot Streets, 
 has a fine three-story brick building, with 
 first-class restaurant, billiard-rooms, and 
 rooms for other games, also a fine ball- 
 room. 
 
 Tbcrc are other club-houses of less 
 note. 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 
 The street-car system of St. Louis is 
 very complete, and affords easy and ex- 
 peditious communication with all parts 
 of the city. The principal starting-points 
 are : Washington Avenue and Fourth 
 Street, three lines; Fourth and Morgan 
 Streets, three lines; Franklin Avenue 
 and Fourth Street, one line ; Oliver and 
 Fourth Streets, one line ; Fourth and 
 Market Streets, one line ; Fifth and Olive, 
 one line ; Locust and Fourth Streets, one 
 line. 
 
 Hacks. — The rates of fare for the con- 
 48 
 
 veyance of passengers are established by 
 ordinance, a copy of which is posted in 
 every hackney carriage. 
 
 FEERIES. 
 
 Ferry accommodations are ample and 
 the boats are of easy access from any of 
 the hotels. 
 
 As yet there are no bridges, but, as the 
 great bridge over the Mississippi is now 
 (1873) so near completion, we give the 
 following description of it : 
 
 The investigations of years in regard 
 to the undercurrent of the Mississippi 
 have shown that no river in the world 
 changes its sand-bed so rapidly and to 
 such an extent ; and more particularly 
 the soundings that were made near St. 
 Louis showed that at times, when the 
 river overflows, its sand-layers may be 
 carried away to the depth of 40 feet, 
 and, under extraordinary circumstances, 
 scoured down to the very rock itself. 
 Thus was demonstrated the necessity of 
 laying the basis of the piers upon the 
 rock itself, which under one pier is 90 
 feet, under the other 120 feet under the 
 ordinary high-water line. Inasmuch, on 
 the other hand, as the law of Congress, 
 made in the interest of navigation, pre- 
 scribes that the height of the arches shall 
 be 50 feet above the city directrix, or 
 ordinary high-water line, of the river, it 
 results that the entire height of the piers 
 must reach 165 and 194 feet respec- 
 tively. 
 
 The system by which the base was laid 
 upon the rock was that of sinking. By 
 means of colossal iron caissons (open 
 below and resting upon the sand itself), 
 which, with the increasing weight of the 
 pillars built on top of them, as the sand 
 under them was removed* to the upper 
 world, sank deeper and deeper, this low- 
 ering was effected. In order, however, 
 to render the caissons capable of re- 
 sistance, the atmosphere, by means of 
 enormous air-pumps, was compressed in 
 them in such a manner that their power 
 of resistance could be increased to meet 
 any exigency. When the caisson or air- 
 chamber, as it is called with propriety, 
 struck upon the rock (that is, when 
 the sand-pumps working it had removed 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 the gigantic layers of sand through 
 which it had to penetrate, and when the 
 pier that re3ts on the caisson was sepa- 
 rated only by the air-chamber from the 
 rock), then it (the caisson) was filled 
 with concrete, which completed the in- 
 dissoluble connection between pier and 
 rock. When the last particle of com- 
 pressed air in the air-chamber had given 
 place to this indestructible compound of 
 cement and stone, all that remained to 
 be done was to fill up in a similar man- 
 ner the vertical shafts which communi- 
 cated between the air-chamber and the 
 upper world, and the whole structure of 
 the pier, in solid compactness incorpora- 
 ted with the rock far below, stood aloft, 
 ready to receive the superstructure. 
 
 At present both the piers are finished. 
 It is laid down in the plan that the por- 
 tion of the piers above water, and exposed 
 to the action of the air, shall be built of 
 the strongest granite, while the parts 
 extending from the rock to a certain 
 point under the lowest water shall be 
 built from limestone blocks from Grafton 
 quarry, in Illinois. Their total height 
 will then be 194 and 165 feet, respec- 
 tively — the east pier being the highest, 
 because the rock on the Illinois side of 
 the river lies deeper than it does on the 
 Missouri side. The hexagonal foundation 
 of the piers is 82 feet in length, their 
 weight amounts to from 28,000 to 33,000 
 tons. No less solid and massive is the 
 construction of the abutments. In their 
 case, likewise, they had to go down to 
 the rocks. Upon the Missouri side of the 
 river this presented little difficulty, which, 
 however, was made up for on the Illi- 
 nois side, on account of the nature of the 
 American Bottom. 
 
 These four piers support the struct- 
 ure, which now approaches its termina- 
 tion with rapid strides. Upon the masses 
 thereof, which are put together to last 
 for an eternity, the bridge itself will rest. 
 They will carry three arches, which will 
 measure — those extending from the abut- 
 ments to the piers 500 feet each, and the 
 span of the principal arch between the 
 two piers 520 feet. The possibility of 
 erecting such long spans, considering the 
 enormous weight which they will have to 
 bear, was at first strongly doubted, and 
 still more strongly contested. Cast-steel 
 3 
 
 is selected as the material of these arches. 
 Each of them will be double, that is to 
 say, will consist of two concentric arches 
 12 feet apart, and joined together by a 
 network of the most massive steel braces. 
 Such double arches will be stretched four 
 in each span, running parallel with each 
 other from pier to pier. Upon their iron 
 necks will be laid the real bridge in two 
 stories. The lower of these stories is in- 
 tended for the railways ; the upper be- 
 longs to vehicles and foot-passengers. - 
 Being 50 feet wide, both will afford space 
 enough to satisfy the demands of the 
 liveliest traffic. Meanwhile, underneath, 
 the largest steamers, even when the water 
 is at its highest, may dash along ; and 
 while over them the East and West ex- 
 change their riches, they may, unim- 
 peded, perform the exchange between 
 the North and the South. St. Louis, 
 however, will not only have the boldest 
 arch bridge in the world, but it will also 
 have the first structure of the kind built 
 of steel. 
 
 The street leading directly to the bridge 
 — Washington Avenue — is one of the 
 broadest and finest in St. Louis. Like 
 the whole of the St. Louis shore, it slopes 
 rapidly when it approaches the river. It 
 will be sufficient, therefore, to prolong 
 the bridge, which rises about 50 feet 
 above the shore, a comparatively short 
 distance — three blocks — 1,049 feet into 
 the city, in order that its level may equal 
 that of Washington Avenue. A viaduct 
 of five arches, of 27 feet span each, 
 under which the traffic of the cross-streets 
 below may be carried on unobstructedly, 
 will form the continuation of the bridge, 
 and of course will be of the same height 
 and breadth. At the end of it the high 
 level road will pass into Washington 
 Avenue, which still continues to rise, 
 whereas the low level road, with its rail 
 ways, will run into a tunnel, 4,800 feet in 
 length, which passes under a large por- 
 tion of the city, and terminates at the 
 spot where the great St. Louis Central 
 Railroad Depot will be erected — where 
 at present the Pacific Railroad crosses 
 Eleventh Street. The tunnel will be 15 
 feet wide and 17 feet high. Dikes and 
 trestles, branching off", according to the 
 convenience of the different railroad 
 companies, to north, south, or east, wiU 
 49 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 complete the connection with the bridge. 
 The upper carriage-way will be carried 
 out upon solid constructions as far as 
 Fourth Street in East St. Louis, from 
 which point the Missouri traffic will sep- 
 arate in all directions. 
 
 It is expected that the bridge will be 
 completed by the end of the present year. 
 The cost will be between $4,500,000 and 
 $5,000,000. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 De Bar's Opera-House, on Pine Street, 
 between Third and Fourth, is the leading 
 theatre. 
 
 The Olympic Theatre, on Fifth, between 
 Walnut and Elm Streets, is a first-class 
 place. 
 
 The Apollo Gardens is a German the- 
 atre, on the southeast corner of Fourth 
 and Poplar Streets. 
 
 The Varieties Theatre, on Market 
 Street, between Fifth and Sixth Streets, 
 is a favorite resort for gentlemen. 
 
 CnUEOIIES. 
 
 The first church ever established in St. 
 Louis was a log-building, occupying the 
 spot where the Roman Catholic Cathedral 
 now stands. It was, of course, a Roman 
 Catholic church. The first recorded 
 church history is that in 1*766, two 
 years after the first settlement, Father 
 Meurin administered the sacrament of 
 baptism in a tent. The first Protestant 
 church established here was the Presby- 
 terian, organized in April, 1816. The first 
 Episcopal service was held in 1819. The 
 following are the churches most attractive 
 to strangers : 
 
 The Roman Catholic Cathedral, on Wal- 
 nut Street, between Second and Third, 
 is an elegant edifice, 58 feet in height, 
 with a front of polished freestone. It 
 is 136 feet long, is ornamented by a 
 Doric portico, and possesses a fine chime 
 of bells, the largest of which weighs 2,600 
 pounds. 
 
 The Church of the Messiah (Unitarian), 
 at the corner of Olive and Ninth Streets, 
 is a splendid Gothic edifice. 
 
 St. George's Church (Episcopal), cor- 
 ner of Locust and Seventh Streets, is an 
 elegant building. 
 
 The First Presbyterian Church, situated 
 on the northwest corner of Fourteenth 
 50 
 
 Street and Lucas Place, is a costly 
 brick edifice. 
 
 The Second Presbyterian Church, on 
 Seventeenth Struct and Lucas Place, is a 
 fine stone building. 
 
 The Baptist Church, on the southwest 
 corner of Sixth and Locust Streets, is a 
 brick structure of handsome design. 
 
 The following are also fine buildings : 
 
 The Union Methodist Church, corner of 
 Eleventh and Locust Streets. 
 
 The Lutheran Church, corner of Eighth 
 and Walnut Streets. 
 
 The Congregational Church, on Locust 
 Street, between Tenth and Eleventh 
 Streets. 
 
 The Presbyterian Churches, corner of 
 Eleventh and Pine Streets,' and corner of 
 Sixteenth and Walnut Streets. 
 
 In the southern, western, and northern 
 parts of the city, there arc also many 
 fine churches. 
 
 The Jewish Temple, corner of Sixteenth 
 and Pine Streets, is one of the finest 
 ecclesiastical structures in the city. 
 
 PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. 
 
 Lafayette Park is in the southern por- 
 tion of the city, readily reached by the 
 Fourth Street and Chouteau Avenue car3. 
 It originally embraced a whole block of 
 the City Commons — 40 acres — but the 
 four streets, 90 feet wide, by which the 
 park is surrounded, have reduced its size 
 to an area of 28 acres. The trees in this 
 park have already grown to a consider- 
 able size. Shrubs and flowers, distributed 
 in great abundance between the groves 
 of higher shade-trees, give to the park a 
 very lively appearance. 
 
 Hyde Park is situated on the summit 
 of the first hill west of the Bcllefontainc 
 Road, on Salisbury Street, and can be 
 reached by cars from Fourth and Locust 
 Streets, or Fourth Street and Washington 
 Avenue, or by the Fifth Street line. 
 This park covers an area of four city 
 blocks, and is handsomely enclosed with 
 a substantial stone and iron fence, which is 
 bordered by double rows of shade-trees. 
 Nature has done more than art toward 
 beautifying the grounds. The Stately 
 oaks tarnish a shady retreat where hun- 
 dreds of children and their teachers <>r 
 parents meet, almost daily, during " pic- 
 nic " season. Three lines of street-cars, 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [St Louis. 
 
 all terminating on Salisbury Street, at 
 certain times of the year unload un- 
 counted numbers of visitors to this park. 
 It is the people's garden of North St. 
 Louis. 
 
 In the centre of the city three com- 
 paratively small parks are laid out, nearly 
 all at the same distance from the river, 
 on Market, Olive, and Carr Streets. They 
 are : 
 
 Washington Square, on Market and 
 Eleventh Streets. 
 
 Missouri Park, on Olive and Thir- 
 teenth Streets, bordered by the two 
 largest and prettiest churches of the city 
 and opening on Lucas Place and Locust 
 Street. 
 
 Carr Square, on Sixteenth Street. 
 
 Further out in the northern part of the 
 town are Clinton, Jackson, and Monroe 
 Places, on Jefferson, North Market and 
 Warren Streets. The two buildings of the 
 Webster School stand on Clinton Place. 
 
 In the southern part of the town are 
 Laclede and Gravois Parks. 
 
 The park being laid out in St. Louis 
 Place, near the new reservoir, between 
 Sixteenth and Seventeenth Streets, is an 
 immense parallelogram of 2,300 feet in 
 width. It will be crossed in either direc- 
 tion by a wide macadamized street, and 
 bordered on either side by two alleys of 
 shade-trees, like the celebrated " Lin- 
 den " in Berlin. 
 
 St. Louis Park, lately projected, is 
 situated about five miles a little south of 
 west of the Court-House, and is to con- 
 tain 3,000 acres of land. 
 
 The Missouri Park of Fruits, situated 
 20 miles out on the Pacific Railroad, is a 
 beautiful place, designed, when completed, 
 to contain several thousand acres. 
 
 Though not strictly coming within the 
 term park, the Fair- Grounds of the St. 
 Louis Agricultural and Mechanical As- 
 sociation are practically such.. The 
 grounds", which were first occupied in 
 1856, embraced 50 acres, which at the 
 time of purchase were a natural forest, 
 and have been wonderfully improved by 
 the addition of hundreds of choice trees 
 and plants, the laying out of walks and 
 drives, the erection of beautiful and 
 convenient buildings for all fair-purposes, 
 and the introduction of artificial ponds, 
 mounds, etc. 
 
 " Fair week " is the gala season, not 
 only for St. Louis, but for the people 
 within a radius of hundreds of miles. 
 Railroads and steamboats bring persons 
 at half fare, and the city is a vast swarm 
 of exhibitors and sight-seers from all the 
 country around. During some days there 
 have been present at the Fair-Grounds 
 80,000 persons within the enclosure at 
 one time. Every year the attraction is 
 made greater by the more liberal pre- 
 miums offered, and the greater variety of 
 articles included in the competition. This 
 fair is open to the whole Mississippi Val- 
 ley. 
 
 The Fair-Grounds at present embrace 
 85 acres, bounded by Grand Avenue, 
 Kossuth Avenue, Bryan Avenue, and St. 
 Charles plank-road, and can be reached 
 by the cars on Franklin Avenue, on Fifth 
 Street, from the corner of Washington 
 Avenue and Fourth, or from Locust and 
 Fourth Streets. 
 
 The grounds are now well set in blue 
 grass and shaded with a beautiful grove 
 of forest-trees, and through them are 
 winding avenues, handsomely bordered 
 with evergreens and trees of all other 
 kinds, while an aqueduct from the city 
 reservoir keeps seven ornamental foun- 
 tains constantly in play, and furnishes an 
 ample supply of water to every part of 
 the grounds. Around the whole are large 
 and commodious stalls for the accom- 
 modation of the stock, and convenient 
 thereto is a grand mile drive, 40 feet 
 wide, for the exercise and speeding of 
 horses. 
 
 Buildings have been erected of such 
 size and shape as not only to furnish 
 ample room for the accommodation of 
 visitors and exhibitors, but greatly to 
 beautify the grounds. 
 
 The Amphitheatre, by far the largest 
 in the United States, having an inside cir- 
 cumference of one quarter of a mile 
 in extent, will seat comfortably 40,000 
 people. Around these seats (one above 
 them and the other below) are two 
 promenades, each of which will hold 
 25,000 persons. Thus it will be seen 
 that this immense structure will shelter 
 as many as 90,000 people. Under the Am- 
 phitheatre are 100 refreshment booths. 
 
 In the centre of this building is the 
 Pagoda, around which the fine stock is 
 51 
 
Kt. Louis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Looia. 
 
 exhibited. It has three stories, is 90 feet 
 high, and has a centre flag-pole 190 feet 
 iu height. 
 
 The Floral, Mechanical, Fine Art, and 
 Textile Fabric Halls, are all well adapted 
 to exhibition purposes. 
 
 The Gallinurium, 30 feet in diameter, 
 and three stories high, is made entirely of 
 wire. It contains 90 apartments, with 
 all the conveniences for the exhibition 
 and keeping of poultry. 
 
 The Machine-Shop is 300 feet long, 
 with shafting the full length, and fur- 
 nished with a steam-engine for testing all 
 kinds of machinery. 
 
 The Cottage contains four saloons, 
 which are well furnished for the comfort 
 and convenience of ladies. 
 
 The Agricultural Department is 101 feet 
 long and 50 feet wide. 
 
 The Music Hall, a building 80 feet long 
 and 40 feet wide, is erected exclusively 
 for the display of musical instruments. 
 
 The grounds are always open, and ex- 
 cept during the Fair week the price of 
 admission is only 10 cents. 
 
 The Missouri Botanical Gardens, owned 
 by Mr. Henry Shaw, are situated about 
 five miles southwest from the Court- 
 House, on Tower Grove Avenue (entrance 
 at the western terminus of Floral Avenue), 
 which begins at Grand Avenue and ex- 
 tends west to Tower Grove Avenue. On 
 this fine, elevated site, overlooking the 
 city from the west, and a wide range of 
 the beautiful surrounding country, will 
 be found probably the finest public gar- 
 dens in the United States. 
 
 The grounds are divided into three sec- 
 tions, as follows : 
 
 The Herbaceous and Flowtr Garden, 
 embracing 10 acres, contains almost every 
 flower that can be grown in this latitude, 
 and in it arc several plant-houses, in 
 which arc thousands of exotic and trop- 
 ical plants. 
 
 In the Fruiticeium, or Experimental 
 Fruit Garden, comprising six acres, are 
 cultivated all the various kinds of fruit 
 which grow in the open air in this climate, 
 including 40 kinds of grapes, 20 of straw- 
 berries, and all other kinds and varieties. 
 
 The Arboretum is very extensive, com- 
 prising 25 acres, and embracing the dif- 
 ferent varieties of ornamental and for- 
 est trees that will grow in this climate. 
 52 
 
 Iu this section is the Finetum, contain- 
 ing coniferous trees — of pines alone 29 
 species ; the Quercclum, embracing varie- 
 ties of the oak; and the Salicelum, cm- 
 bracing about 100 species of the willow. 
 
 The Labyrinth, or Maze, is an intricate, 
 puzzling, hedge-bordered pathway, lead- 
 ing to the summer-house in the centre. 
 The hedges embrace all varieties, and are 
 kept clipped and in good order. 
 
 The private garden, where the graperies 
 are situated, is iu the rear of the house. 
 
 The neat yet substantial fire-proof 
 building, east of Mr. Shaw's residence, is 
 devoted to the Museum, He-rbarium, 
 and Botanical Library, ou the main floor, 
 the Reading and Lecture Room being iu 
 the basement. 
 
 The improvements were commenced 
 by Mr. Henry Shaw about 1857, with a 
 design to establish an institution for the 
 promotion of the sciences of Botany and 
 Horticulture. 
 
 Visitors are admitted daily, from sun- 
 rise to sunset, except on Sundays and 
 holidays ; then after 2 p. M. 
 
 To insure the perpetual maintenance 
 of the Garden, the proprietor has made an 
 endowment of about 400 acres of valuable 
 lands immediately surrounding it, which, 
 together with the Garden, are to be left 
 in the charge of trustees. 
 
 The Lower Grade Park, situated near 
 the Botanical Garden, is the newly-pro- 
 jected Park of Tower Grove, consisting 
 of 200 acres. It is a parallelogram, 
 being five times longer than broad. Mr. 
 Henry Shaw, the projector and donor to 
 the city of the Garden and the Park, is 
 of English birth, and came to St. Louis 
 more than fifty years ago. During the 
 time he was in business he was a prosper- 
 ous hardware merchant; of late years he 
 has devoted his time exclusively to the 
 Garden and to his private affairs. 
 
 PUBLIC AND PROMINENT BUILDINCS, 
 AND PLACES NOT OTHERWISE CLASSI- 
 FIED. 
 
 MUNICIPAL. 
 
 The Court-House, occupying the square 
 hounded by Fourth, Fifth, Chestnut, and 
 Market Streets, is one of the finest edi- 
 fices of its kind in the United States, 
 having cost over a million and a quartet 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 of dollars. It is built of Genevieve lime- 
 stone, and the fronts are adorned with 
 beautiful porticos, while the dome, which 
 is of fine proportions, greatly resembles 
 that on the Capitol at Washington. It is 
 unfortunate, however, that, owing to de- 
 fects in lighting, the rotunda and general- 
 ly the interior of the building present a 
 dark and gloomy appearance. 
 
 This is the recognized centre of the 
 city ; from this point all distances are 
 measured, and here converge the wires 
 of the fire-alarm telegraph. From the 
 top of this building is to be had the best 
 view of the city. 
 
 The Temple of Justice, Clarke Avenue, 
 between Eleventh and Twelfth Streets, 
 occupying an entire block, is an elegant 
 structure. In this building are the jail, 
 and the city and county courts and of- 
 fices. 
 
 The Union Market occupies the square 
 bounded by Fifth, Sixth, Greene, and 
 Morgan Streets. 
 
 NATIONAL. 
 
 The Custom-House, at the southeast 
 corner of Third and Olive Streets, is a 
 spacious, substantial edifice of Missouri 
 marble. It occupies the site of one of 
 the first theatres erected in St. Louis, 
 and is built upon piles driven upward of 
 20 feet into the ground. It was erected 
 at a cost of $356,000. Underneath the 
 Post-Office, which occupies the main 
 floor of the building, is a vault which 
 extends throughout the basement. The 
 second and third stories are used for 
 the purposes of the customs and United 
 States Courts. 
 
 The Arsenal, situated in the extreme 
 southern portion of the city, immediately 
 on the bank of the river, is a beautiful 
 6pot where the statue to General N. Lyon 
 is to be erected. It is reached by the 
 Fifth Street Railway. 
 
 The Marine Hospital is situated in the 
 southern part of the city. 
 
 EDUCATIONAL AND CIIARITABLE. 
 
 The school system of St. Louis is un- 
 usually complete. The public schools 
 may be classified as follows : 
 
 The Polytechnic Building is a large, 
 five-story edifice, at the corner of Chest- 
 nut and Seventh Streets. 
 
 On the first floor are the offices and 
 assembly-room of the Board of Public 
 Schools. 
 
 On the second floor is the Public School 
 Library, containing over 24,000 volumes. 
 Any person may become a life-member 
 by the payment of $12. The depart- 
 ment of Natural Science is very full. 
 
 On the third floor is the 0' Fallon Poly- 
 technic Institute, which is open for five 
 months in the year, and is free to all who 
 are qualified to avail themselves of its 
 advantages, which include the elemen- 
 tary branches of a scientific and techno- 
 logical course. 
 
 The Intermediate School (a branch of 
 the High School), and the rooms of the 
 Academy of Science and Historical Society, 
 are on the same floor. 
 
 The Normal School is on the fourth 
 floor. 
 
 The High School, corner of Fifteenth 
 and Olive Streets, is a fine building, 
 erected in 1855 at a cost of $50,000. The 
 course is for four years, and the average 
 attendance is 400 pupils. In the third 
 floor is an assembly-hall with seats for 
 700 persons. 
 
 The District Schools number about 40, 
 and those most recently built (14 or 15 
 in number) are all upon the same plan, 
 each being three stories high, and having 
 four rooms on a floor, with wide halls and 
 sliding partitions, by which each pair of 
 rooms adjacent may be thrown into one. 
 By this means abundance of light is 
 secured, and a careful watch over the 
 pupils is more easily obtained. Each 
 room is under the charge of a single 
 teacher, and each building accommodates 
 700 pupils, the total accommodations 
 in the public schools being tor 23,000 
 pupils. 
 
 The University of St. Louis is at the 
 corner of Pine and Sixteenth Streets. 
 
 The Medical Department of the Missouri 
 University is at the corner of Eighth and 
 Gratiot Streets. 
 
 The Washington University is at the 
 corner of Pine and Sixteenth Streets. 
 
 The Western Hebrew College is at 1107 
 Morgan Street. 
 
 The Roman Catholic institutions will 
 be classified under a separate heading. 
 
 The Mercantile Library is at the corner 
 of Fifth and Locust Streets, the associa- 
 53 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St Louis. 
 
 tion having been organized in 18-10. 
 The Library Hall is a handsome brick 
 
 building, which was completed in 1854, 
 at a cost of $140,000. 
 
 In the third story is a magnificent 
 public hall, capable of seating 1,800 per- 
 sons. 
 
 In the second story arc the library and 
 reading-room. The library contains be- 
 tween 30,000 and 40,000 volumes, and is 
 constantly increasing. It also possesses 
 valuable paintings, coins, and statuary, 
 among which may be mentioned Miss 
 Ilosmer's life-size statues of Beatrice 
 Cenei and (Enonc (a nymph of Mount 
 Ida) ; a marble bust of Thomas II. Benton, 
 by James W. McDonald ; a marble bust 
 of Robert Burns, by Wm. Brodie, and a 
 sculptured slab of marble from the in- 
 terior wall of a palace in Nineveh. 
 
 The reading-room is elegantly fitted up, 
 and contains a large collection of maga- 
 zines and papers from all parts of the 
 world. 
 
 Both library and reading-room are open 
 free to strangers. Hours, from 9 A. M. to 
 10 p. M. 
 
 Among the numerous charitable in- 
 stitutions of St. Louis are the following : 
 
 The City Hospital, corner of Lafayette 
 Avenue and Lime Street, is noted for the 
 extent and completeness of its accom- 
 modations for the sick. 
 
 The Quarantine Hospital is 10 miles 
 below the city, and on the river. The 
 hospital-grounds consist of 50 acres, upon 
 which stand wooden hospital buildings 
 with accommodations for about 300 pa- 
 tients. The officers' quarters are built of 
 stone, and the grounds are well planned, 
 and are ornamented with shrubbery. 
 
 The Insane Asylum is near Shaw's 
 Gardens, from which it can be seen. It 
 is a splendid institution, and in its con- 
 struction no expense has been spared. 
 Evcrj r appliance which science or ex- 
 perience can suggest as likely to con- 
 duce to the comfort and recovery of 
 the inmates is to be found here. The 
 Burroundings are delightful. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 From the number of Roman Catholic 
 
 educational establishments, churches, and 
 
 charitable institutions, in St. Louis, it has 
 
 been designated the " Rome of America." 
 
 U 
 
 It is said that its charitable institutions 
 are as extensive as those of any city in 
 the United States, not excepting New 
 York, many of them having been founded 
 and fostered by Archbishop Kenrick. 
 
 A stranger, desiring more particular in- 
 formation than it is practicable to give 
 here, can obtain it from any parish priest 
 in the city. 
 
 The St. Bonis University, at the corner 
 of Ninth Street and Washington Avenue, 
 is the oldest educational institution in 
 St. Louis, having been founded by mem- 
 bers of the Society of Jesus, in 1829. 
 
 The institution possesses a valuable 
 museum, and very complete philosophical 
 and chemical apparatus. 
 
 The library contains over 25,000 vol- 
 umes, among them some of such rarity 
 and value that no notice of the university 
 would be complete without a reference 
 to them. First among them is a " Geog- 
 raphy of the Earth," illustrated with 
 maps and plates of men, animals, birds, 
 and scenes, in all the countries described ; 
 all printed in various-colored inks, true to 
 nature and accurately portrayed. It was 
 published by Bleaux, at Amsterdam, for 
 subscribers, in eleven large folio volumes, 
 in 1662. The type is clear, the paper fine, 
 yet very strong ; the maps, even of 
 America, very accurate, and especially 
 of those portions where the Jesuits had 
 their most extensive missions. The color- 
 ing seems as fresh and bright as if done 
 last year, instead of over two hundred 
 years ago. Among other works particu- 
 larly worthy of notice arc a theological 
 dictionary entitled " Summa Angelica," 
 by Angclus Clavasis, printed July 4, 
 1490; also another work printed in 
 1499. ITcre are the sermons and hom- 
 ilies of Augustine printed in 1521 ; also 
 Cicero's Offices printed in 1539, and 
 an "Epitome of Antiquity," printed in 
 1533, most beautifully illustrated with 
 medallions ; there are also several edi- 
 tions of the Bible, with beautiful marginal 
 and other illustrations, in various-colored 
 inks, printed in 1556, and down to 1628. 
 
 The College Villa, situated near the 
 city, is large and beautiful, with ample 
 buildings, spacious groves, and recrea- 
 tion-grounds. 
 
 A medical department is connected 
 with the university. 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 NEW YORK TC ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VII. [St. Louis. 
 
 The College of the Christian Brothers 
 is at the corner of Eighth and Gratiot 
 Streets. It was established in 1849, and 
 in 1852 was empowered by the State 
 Legislature to confer degrees and aca- 
 demic honors. The average number of 
 students is from 370 to 400 in constant 
 attendance. 
 
 St. Patrick's Academy, corner of Cass 
 Avenue and Seventh Street, is a branch 
 of the college of which it is merely a pre- 
 paratory department. 
 
 There are seven other schools in St. 
 Louis, and one in Carondelet taught by 
 the Christian Brothers, who in 1870 had 
 under their charge 2,137 pupils. 
 
 There are nineteen parish schools, with 
 an aggregate attendance of G,925 chil- 
 dren. 
 
 The following convents have schools 
 for female pupils connected with them : 
 
 Convent and Academy of the Sacred 
 Heart, corner of Fifth and Labadie Streets; 
 Convent and Academy of the Visitation, 
 corner of Twenty-second Street and Cass 
 Avenue ; Ursuline Convent and Academy, 
 Second Street, Carondelet, and Ann 
 Avenues ; Sisters of St. Joseph Academy 
 dnd Convent, at Carondelet ; and St. Vin- 
 cent's Ladies' School, corner of Tenth and 
 St. Charles Streets. 
 
 The Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, 
 corner of Twenty-third and Morgan Sts., 
 constantly supports on an average 45 
 young girls, who are here trained to use- 
 ful employments. There are also schools 
 attached to this convent which accom- 
 modate over 400 pupils. 
 
 The Convent of the Good Shepherd, for 
 the reformation of fallen women, is at the 
 corner of Chestnut and Seventh Streets. 
 
 The Convent of the Little Sisters of the 
 Poor supports about 70 helpless old 
 people. It is at the corner of Eighteenth 
 and Morgan Streets, and is dependent 
 upon voluntary contributions. 
 
 The following orphan asylums are 
 under the charge of the different chari- 
 table orders of the Church : St. Bridget's 
 Half -Orphan Asylum, also Deaf and 
 Dumb, corner of Twenty-sixth Street and 
 Christy Avenue ; St. Vincent's German 
 Male and Female Orphan Asylum, Twen- 
 tieth Street, between Cass Avenue and 
 O'Fallon Street ; Male Orphan Asylum, 
 corner of Fifteenth Street and Clarke 
 
 Avenue ; St. Mary's Female Orphan Asy- 
 lum, corner of Tenth and Eiddle Sts. ; 
 Mullanphy Orphan Asylum for Females, 
 corner of Sixth and Labadie Streets ; 
 House of the Angel Guardian, corner of 
 Tenth and Marion Streets ; and St. Philo- 
 niena's Orphan Asylum, on Summit Ave- 
 nue. 
 
 The principal hospitals, either sup- 
 ported or managed by the Roman Cath- 
 olics, are : St. Ann's Widows' Asylum 
 and Lying-in Hospital, corner of Tenth 
 and O'Fallon Streets ; St. Vincent's In- 
 sane Asylum, corner of Decatur and 
 Marion Streets ; St. Louis Hospital, corner 
 of Spruce and Fourth Streets, conducted 
 by Sisters of Charity, and having accom- 
 modations for 400 patients ; and St. Jo- 
 seph's Hospital, corner of Osage Street and 
 Carondelet Avenue. 
 
 Attached to nearly all the city churches 
 are Conferences of St. Vincent de Paul, 
 having in the aggregate about 1,000 
 members. These organizations arc formed 
 for house-to-house visitation and relief 
 of the sick and poor. 
 
 There is one convent of cloistered nuns, 
 of the Carmelite order. It is on Clay 
 Farm, near Calvary Cemetery. 
 
 OTIIEK BUILDINGS AND PLACES OF 
 INTEREST. 
 
 The Merchants' Exchange, fronting on 
 Main and Commercial Streets, between 
 Market and Walnut Streets, is a fine 
 edifice. It was erected in 1856-57, at a 
 cost of $75,000. The height on Main 
 Street is 75 feet, length 125 feet, and 
 depth 85 feet. The main hall, or " Ex- 
 change," is a fine room, 102 by 81 feet. 
 The reading-room is on the south side of 
 the main hall. The best time to visit 
 this building is between ll^and 12o'clock, 
 when the merchants are " on 'Change." 
 A permit from the superintendent is ne- 
 cessary. 
 
 The New City Water-Works, completed 
 in 1870, are upon a grand scale. The 
 water is taken from the Mississippi River, 
 at what is called Bissell's Point, close to 
 the northern boundary of the city. It 
 first enters an iron tower, 80 feet higb, 
 sunk to the rock, and provided with gates 
 at different heights, so that the water 
 may be taken at any desired depth below 
 the surface. In this tower are several 
 55 
 
St. Locis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 Btrainers and screens to free the water 
 from foreign matter before entering the 
 pump-well. From this tower a pipe of 
 5 ', feet interior diameter, and 300 l'eet in 
 length, conducts the water to the pump- 
 ing-engines that arc to lift it into the 
 settling-reservoirs. These engines are 
 two in number, and are duplicate engines 
 of the Cornish-bull class, each of a 
 capacity to pump 17,000,000 gallons in 
 twenty-four hours. The foundations for 
 these engines are of the most substantial 
 character, and, to provide for the rapidly- 
 increasing demand, have been constructed 
 large enough to hold three engines. To 
 free the water from the sedimentary mat- 
 ter, particularly at seasons of high water, 
 four settling-reservoirs, each 240 by 660 
 feet, and averaging in depth about 20 
 feet, have been constructed close to the 
 river-bank. The water pumped by the 
 low-service engines is admitted at will 
 into either of these four reservoirs ; 
 there it is left at perfect rest for twenty- 
 four hours, during which time about 
 nineteen-twentieths of the sedimentary 
 matter falls to the bottom. During the 
 next day the water is drawn off by a 
 system of gates so arranged as to al- 
 low the water to discharge at all times 
 near its surface ; the last three or four 
 feet of water is not drawn off, but on the 
 fourth day is allowed to run out into the 
 river, taking with it most of the sediment, 
 while the remainder is washed out with 
 the aid of an engine, and the reservoir is 
 then ready for a new supply. The water, 
 after leaving the settling-reservoirs, runs 
 by gravity, through a covered conduit 
 about one-half mile long, into a small 
 reservoir near the high-service engines, 
 called the clear-water well, and from it 
 through a short conduit to the high-ser- 
 vice engines. 
 
 These are two in number. Each of 
 them must be able, according to con- 
 tract, to raise 16,500,000 gallons to a 
 height of 270 feet within twenty-four 
 hours. They pump through a force- 
 main live miles in length, and of 36 and 
 30 inches diameter, into the storage- 
 reservoir on Compton Hill. To relieve 
 the engines and force-main from any 
 concussion, the stand-pipe has a height 
 of 2 12 feet above the ordinary high- 
 water level of the river. It is about 
 56 
 
 one-half mile from the high-service en- 
 gines. Before reaching the storage-reser- 
 voir two pipes of 20-inch diameter branch 
 oil' into the city and connect it with the 
 old system of distribution ; while a third 
 feeder of the same size starts from the 
 storage-reservoir so as to secure con- 
 tinual motion, and thereby prevent the 
 water from becoming foul. 
 
 The storage-reservoir covers about 1 7 
 acres of land, and is built near the city 
 boundary, at the most elevated point 
 within its limits. The elevation of its 
 water surface is 26 feet above the high- 
 est street grade, and is ample to supply 
 the upper story of every house in the 
 city. 
 
 Masonic Hall, corner of Market and 
 Seventh Streets, is a splendid editice, and 
 a credit to the order. 
 
 Lucas Place is the fashionable street. 
 It extends from Wright to Seventeenth 
 Street, 
 
 The Levee should be visited. 
 
 Bclkfontaine Cemetery is a beautiful 
 burial-ground, situated about one mile 
 from the river, on the road of the same 
 name, five miles from the Court-Housc. 
 It embraces about 350 acres of land, 
 is tastefully decorated with shade-trees 
 and shrubber) y , and contains the remains 
 of most of the old settlers and residents 
 of St. Louis. Route by Fourth Street 
 and Broadway cars to the Toll-gate, and 
 thence by stage : through-fare, 20 cents. 
 
 Calvary Cemetery, situated a short dis- 
 tance north of Beliefontaiiie, is noted for 
 its beauty and improvements. 
 
 There are many other handsome bury- 
 ing-grounds, among which are those of 
 the Israelites, Lutherans, and other de- 
 nominations. 
 
 Carondclet, which might appropriately 
 come under the above heading, has al- 
 ready been mentioned in the general de- 
 scription of the city, with which it is now 
 incorporated. The views here are charm- 
 ing. 
 
 The Coal-Works at East St. Louis, on 
 the opposite side of the Mississippi, ami 
 at the I 'lull'-', a distance of It* or 12 miles, 
 
 will repay the trouble of a visit, it' the 
 traveller wishes to learn how the city is 
 Supplied with coal. 
 
St. Louis.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE VIII. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 The Hounds, about which the scientific 
 and the curious are remarkably interested, 
 are to be seen on the American Bottom, 
 about 4 or 5 miles from the city, on 
 the opposite side of the river. They 
 stand upon a low plain, rising like eggs, 
 and are great curiosities. One of the 
 largest has recently been dug away to 
 form the approach to the eastern end of 
 the great bridge, and by this means it 
 has been ascertained that they are the 
 monumental burying-places of an extinct 
 race, though, from the small number of 
 skeletons found, it is thought that none 
 but the most important persons were 
 buried in them. 
 
 Jefferson Barracks is upon the Missis- 
 sippi, 12 miles south of the city, situated 
 upon elevated ground. Here the Govern- 
 ment holds 1,700 acres of land, and here 
 are large barracks and officers' quarters. 
 
 SHORT PLE/YSUEE EXCURSIONS. 
 
 There are a number of places within a 
 short distance of St. Louis to which very 
 agreeable pleasure-trips can be made ; 
 among them are the following : 
 
 The Lead, Copper, and Iron Mines of 
 Missouri are within a very short distance 
 of the city, and will amply repay a visit. 
 They can be reached by rail or by private 
 conveyance. It is advisable for the tourist, 
 who intends making the jaunt, to take the 
 advice of the proprietor or clerk of his 
 hotel as to which mines to visit, and how 
 to reach them. The same remark will 
 apply to trips to the 
 
 Sulphur Springs, which are visited at 
 different points along the lines of rail- 
 way diverging from St. Louis. 
 
 Perry Springs, in Illinois, a short dis- 
 tance above St. Louis, have become very 
 popular, and are provided with the ac- 
 cessories of a fashionable watering-place. 
 The Iron Mountai?is, on the Iron 
 Mountain Railroad, are world-wide curi- 
 osities. 
 
 The Valley of Arcadia is adjoining the 
 Iron Mountains. It is a beautiful spot, 
 • rapidly being covered with highly-culti- 
 vated farms and handsome dwellings. 
 
 Caves. — Within a short distance of the 
 city, and of easy access, are some caves, 
 which are considered great curiosities, 
 and are much visited. 
 
 rieasant trips may be made to Kirk- 
 wood, 14 miles distant, on the Missouri 
 Pacific Railway, and to Columbia, 100 
 miles distant, upon the North Missouri 
 Railway, it being noted as the seat of the 
 State University. Trips by steamer can 
 also be made to various points along the 
 Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 KEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Via Route IT. to Cleveland, and thence via 
 Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indian- 
 apolis, and Indianapolis A St. Louis Rail- 
 ways. (Time, 48 hrs. — Fare, $27.) 
 
 Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & 
 Indianapolis Railway Stations. — Cleve- 
 land, 628 miles from New York ; Grafton 
 (junction of Toledo Division of Michigan 
 Southern & Lake Shore Railway), 053 ; 
 Wellington, G64 ; Shelby (connects with 
 Lake Erie Division of Baltimore & Ohio 
 Railway, formerly Sandusky, Mansfield 
 & Newark Railway), 695; Crestline (junc- 
 tion of Columbus Division with Indian- 
 apolis Division, connects with Pittsburg, 
 Fort Wayne & Chicago Railway), 703 ; 
 Galion, 707 ; Marion (connects with At- 
 lantic & Great Western Division of Erie 
 Railway), 728 ; La Rue, 742 ; Bellcfon- 
 taine (connects with Cincinnati, Sandusky 
 & Cleveland Railway), 768; De Graff, 
 777 ; Sidney (connects with Dayton & 
 Michigan Railway), 791 ; Versailles, 809 ; 
 Union (connects with Dayton & Union 
 and Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railways), 826; Winchester, 835 ; Muncie, 
 856 ; Anderson (connects with Columbus, 
 Chicago & Indiana Central Railway), 874 • 
 Pendleton, 882 ; Fortville, 889 ; Indian- 
 apolis (connects with Terre Haute & 
 Indianapolis, Indianapolis & St. Louis, 
 Jeffersonville, Madison & Indianapolis, 
 and Indianapolis, Cincinnati & Lafayette 
 Railways), 910. 
 
 Indianapolis & St. Louis Railway 
 Stations. — Indianapolis, 910 miles from 
 New York ; Danville, 929 ; Reno, 938 ; 
 Greencastle (connects with Louisville, 
 New Albany & Chicago Railway), 949 ; 
 Carbon, 963 ; Terre Haute (connects with, 
 Evansville & Crawfordsville Railwa y),982 ; 
 Paris, 1,001 ; Kansas, 1,014 ; Charleston, 
 1,027 ; Mattoon (connects with Chicago 
 57 
 
Cleveland.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Charleston. 
 
 Branch of Illinois Central Railway), 1,038; 
 Sholbyville, 1,061 ; Tana (connects with 
 Northern Division Illinois Central Rail- 
 way, and Springfield & Illinois South- 
 Eastern Railway), 1,077 ; Nokomis, 1,089; 
 Hillsboro', 1,105; Litchfield, 1,116; 
 Bunker Hill, 1,135; Bethalto, 1,146; 
 Alton Junction (connects with Alton 
 Branch and Keokuk Packet Line), 
 1,150; Edwardsville Crossing, 1,153; 
 East St. Louis, 1,171 ; St. Louis (connects 
 with all railway and steamboat lines), 
 1,172. 
 
 Cleveland, ©. (628 miles). (See 
 page 17.) 
 
 &}rai*toaa, ©. (653 miles), is a vil- 
 lage in the southeastern extremity of 
 Lorain County, and is the junction of the 
 Toledo Division of the Michigan Southern 
 tfc Lake Shore Railway, 
 
 Nlaelll>y, 4>. (695 miles), is a pleas- 
 ant and prosperous village, in Richland, 
 one of the most fertile counties of the 
 State. The Lake Erie Division of the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway, formerly the 
 Sandusky, Mansfield <& Newark Railway, 
 connects here. 
 
 Ci'estline, O. (703 miles), has 
 been described in Route III. (See page 
 24.) 
 
 CSalion, €>. (707 miles), has been 
 described in Route V. (Sec page 30.) 
 
 Marion, O. (728 miles), has already 
 been described in Route V. (See page 
 30.) The Atlantic & Great Western Divi- 
 sion of the Erie Railway connects here. 
 
 JBellelbntninc, O. (768 miles), 
 is so named from the numerous fine 
 springs in the neighborhood. It is sur- 
 rounded by a rich, populous, and pros- 
 perous country, and has a large and 
 rapidly increasing trade. There are 
 several manufactories here, and also the 
 county buildings, this being the capital 
 of Logan County. The Cincinnati, Cleve- 
 land & Sandusky Railway connects here. 
 
 Sidney, 4>. (791 miles), a handsome 
 village, the capital of Shelby County, 
 stands upon an elevated plateau on the 
 western bank of the Great Miami River, 
 which affords a fine water-power. A 
 navigable feeder of the Miami Canal also 
 passes through the village. There is a 
 public square in the centre of the place. 
 Sidney is at the intersection of the Dayton 
 & Michigan Railway. 
 58 
 
 Union, <S>. & Ind. (826 miles), is 
 partly in Darke County, Ohio, and partly 
 in Randolph County, Indiana. It is a 
 flourishing place, and is the point where 
 the Dayton & Union, and the Columbus, 
 Chicago <£• Indiana Central Railways con- 
 nect. 
 
 Winchester, Ind. (835 miles), 
 is situated upon White River, and is the 
 capital of Randolph County. It is a 
 thriving place. 
 
 IHuncie, Ind. (856 miles), the 
 capital of Delaware County, is delightfully 
 situated in a fertile country, on the bank 
 of White River. It occupies the site of a 
 town of the Muncie Indians. 
 
 Anderson, Slid. (874 miles), the 
 capital of Madison County, is beautifully 
 situated upon the left bank of White 
 River. It is built upon a bluff some fifty 
 feet above the river, and is in the midst 
 of a very fertile region. A few miles 
 above the city is a dain by which a fall 
 of 34 feet is obtained, the extensive 
 water-power being used by numerous 
 manufacturing establishments. The Co- 
 lumbus, Chicago <b Indiana Central Rail- 
 way connects here. 
 
 Pendleton, 2nd. (882 miles), is 
 a prosperous village on Fall Creek, which 
 affords here a good water-power. Marble 
 and limestone are quarried in the neigh- 
 borhood. 
 
 Indiaaannolas, Ind. (910 miles). 
 Here the traveller is transferred to the 
 Indianapolis <£• St. Louis Railway. (For 
 description, see page 43). 
 
 Danville, Had. (929 miles), the 
 capital of Hendricks County, is the seat 
 of tlic county seminary. The new county 
 buildings cost $180,000. 
 
 (jrreencastie, Ind. (949 miles), 
 has been described in page 41. The 
 Louisville, New Albany <L' Chicago Railway 
 connects here. 
 
 Terre BEante, laid. (982 miles), 
 has been described on page 45. From 
 this city there are two roads to St. Louis, 
 one of them has been described in Route 
 VII. The Evansville & Crawfordsville 
 Railway connects here. 
 
 Paris, 111. (1,001 miles), is a 
 flourishing place, and the capital of Edgar 
 County. 
 
 Cnaj»leston,Hl. (1,022 miles), the 
 capital of Coles County, is Bituated on the 
 
Mattoon.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE IX. 
 
 [Aurora. 
 
 edge of Grand Prairie, and is the seat of 
 a medical college. It is one of the most 
 prosperous cities on the line of the road, 
 having a very large trade and important 
 manufacturing interests. 
 
 Maltoon, 111. (1,038 miles), is ono 
 of the principal towns between Terre 
 Ilaute and St. Louis. It has flourishing 
 business, and is where the Chicago 
 Branch of the Illinois Central Railway 
 connects. The machine-shops, round- 
 house, and car-works of this division of 
 the road are situated here. 
 
 Shelfoyvillc, 111. (1,061 miles), 
 the capital of Shelby County, is a rapidly- 
 growing place. It is situated upon the 
 Kaskaskia River. The public - school 
 building is a handsome edifice. 
 
 ^ana, 111. (1,077 miles), an in- 
 corporated city, is a place of some im- 
 portance as a railway centre, and being 
 in a rich agricultural country does a large 
 business. Connections are made here 
 with the Northern Division of the Illinois 
 Central Railway, and with the Springfield 
 & Illinois Southeastern Railway. 
 
 IIilisuoi-o% 111. (1,105 miles), 
 the capital of Montgomery County, is 
 situated on a fork of Shoal Creek. It 
 has unusual manufacturing advantages, 
 and is delightfully located. 
 
 &.itcliiielu, 111. (1,116 miles), 
 situated on a high and fertile prairie, 
 contains several steam-mills, and the con- 
 struction and repair shops of this portion 
 of the road, besides a number of manu- 
 factories. There are several grain-eleva- 
 tors here, and the Litchfield coal-mines 
 afford an abundant supply of fuel. The 
 public square is ornamented with trees 
 and shrubbery. Litchfield was incor- 
 porated as a city in 1859. 
 
 ISunkcr Mill, 111. (1,135 miles), 
 which is built on a high rolling prairie, 
 is one of the pleasantest places on the 
 road. 
 
 IScthalto, III. (1,146 miles), is 
 where the road leaves the prairie and 
 enters the American Bottom, as the strip 
 of rich alluvial land between the Missis- 
 sippi River and the bluffs is called ; scat- 
 tered over it in all directions are numer- 
 ous lakes, bayous, and sloughs. This 
 bottom is often inundated by floods. The 
 last time that any serious damage resulted 
 from this cause was in 1814. 
 
 Alton Junction, III. (1,150 
 miles), is where a branch to Alton diverges, 
 connecting with the Keokuk Packet Line, 
 on the Mississippi River. • 
 
 East St. &.ouis, 111. (1,172 
 miles), is a suburb of St. Louis, and is the 
 seat of large manufactories. 
 
 St. ILouis, Mo. (1,173 miles). (See 
 page 46.) 
 
 ROUTE IX. 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Via Pan-liandle Route, which is Route YI. to 
 Cincinnati ; tlience via Ohio <£ Mississippi 
 Railway. 
 
 Ohio & Mississippi Railway. — Sta- 
 tions. — Cincinnati, 758 miles ; Lawrence- 
 burg (connects with Indianapolis, Cincin- 
 nati & Lafayette Railway), 778 ; Aurora, 
 782 ; Osgood,810 ; North Vernon (connects 
 with Madison Branch of Jcffersonville, 
 Madison & Indianapolis Railway), 831; 
 Seymour (connects with Main Line of 
 Jeffersonville, Madison & Indianapolis 
 Railway) 845 ; Medora, 864 ; Mitchell 
 (connects with Evansville, New Albany & 
 Chicago Railway), 885 ; Loogootee, 916 ; 
 Washington, 931 ; Vincennes (connects 
 with Evansville & Crawfordsville Rail- 
 way), 950; Olney, 981 ; Clay City, 996; 
 Xenia, 1,013 ; Salem, 1,029 ; Odin (con- 
 nects with Chicago Branch of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 1,034 ; Sandoval (con- 
 nects with Main Line of Illinois Central 
 Railway), 1,038 ; Carlyle, 1,051 ; Trenton, 
 1,068 ; Lebanon, 1,075 ; Caseyville, 1,089 ; 
 East St. Louis, 1,097 ; St. Louis (con- 
 nects with all railway and steamboat 
 lines), 1,098. 
 
 Cincinnati, O. (758 miles), has 
 already been described. (Sec page 81.) 
 Laurcncefeurg, Intl. (778 
 miles), the capital of Dearborn County, 
 is situated on the Ohio River, at the end 
 of the Wliitewater Canal, which affords a 
 good water-power. The Indianapol-is, 
 Cincinnati ct* Lafayette Railway connects 
 here. 
 
 Aurora, Inu. (782 miles) is a 
 beautiful city on the Ohio River, doing a 
 large business as a shipping-port for the 
 rich farming country of which it is the 
 outlet. 
 
 59 
 
North Vernon.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 Ufortli Vernon, Ind. (831 
 miles), is the connection of the Madison 
 Branch of the Jeffersonville, Madison & 
 Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 Seymour, End. (845 miles), is a 
 growing village, at the intersection of the 
 Jeffersonville, Madison & Indianapolis 
 Jut ilway. 
 
 Meidiora, Ind. (864 miles), is a 
 small village situated near the East Fork 
 of White River. 
 
 Mitchell, In«1. (885 miles), is at 
 the intersection of the Evansville, New 
 Albany <(■ Chicago Railway. 
 
 Washington, Enid. (931 miles), 
 the capital and principal town of Daviess 
 County, is 3 miles east of the Wabash tfr 
 Erie Canal. 
 
 Vifflcenmes, Ind. (950 miles), is 
 situated upon the Wabash liiver, which 
 is here navigable for steamboats. It is 
 the oldest town in the State, having been 
 settled by French Canadians, about the 
 year 1735, who for several generations 
 iived without other neighbors. Until 
 1813 it was the seat of the territorial 
 government, and is now the capital of 
 Knox County. It contains several manu- 
 factories. The Evansville & Crawfords- 
 ville Railway connects here. 
 
 01ney,'lll. (981 miles), is the capital 
 of Richland County, the general character 
 of which is suggested by the name. It is 
 one of the most prosperous places on the 
 line of the road, and contains a school- 
 house which cost 880,000. 
 
 Clay City, 111. (996 miles), is a 
 place of about 1,000 inhabitants, situated 
 on the Wabash liiver, just on the edge of 
 the prairie. 
 
 Xenla, 111. (1,013 miles), is a 
 small but pleasant place. 
 
 Salem, 111. (1,029 miles), the 
 capital of Marion County, is a place of 
 about 1,500 inhabitants, and is growing 
 in importance. 
 
 <Min, 111. (1,034 miles), from its 
 railroad facilities is of some importance 
 as a shipping-point. The Chicago Branch 
 of the Illinois Central Railway connects 
 here. 
 
 Sandoval, III. (1,038 miles), is 
 at the crossing of the Main Line of the 
 Illinois Central Railway. It is a pros- 
 perous place, in the midst of a line fruit- 
 growing region. The Ohio <& Mississippi 
 60 
 
 company has an engine-house and large 
 repair-shops here. 
 
 Carlyle, 111. (1,051 miles), is 
 situated on the margin of a fine prairie, 
 on the right bank of Kaskaskia River, 
 and is a lumber-market of some impor- 
 tance, logs being floated to this point, 
 where they are made into lumber and 
 sent to St. Louis. 
 
 Trenton, 111. (1,068 miles), is an 
 important shipping-place for corn and 
 wheat. 
 
 Lebanon, III. (1,075 miles), is a 
 beautifully-situated place, and is the scat 
 of McKendree College. It is well built, 
 and contains a handsome Union school- 
 house. 
 
 Casey ville, 111. (1,089 miles), is 
 where the traveller first enters the great 
 American Bottom. It is just at the foot 
 of the bluff, and is one of the principal 
 points from which the city of St. Louis is 
 supplied with coal ; the bluffs being 
 underlain by inexhaustible mines of coal, 
 veins of from six to eight feet in thick- 
 ness cropping out along the river for 
 many miles. 
 
 East St.BLonis, Ell. (1,097 miles), 
 is a small city, or more properly suburb, 
 of St. Louis. 
 
 St. ILonis, Mo. (1,098 miles). {See 
 page 46.) 
 
 - MO UTE X. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Via Baltimore & Ohio. Little- Miami and 
 Ohio <(• Misxixxippi Hallways. (Time,it>)^ 
 hre.—Fare, $'24. ) 
 
 Stations. — Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
 way — Main Line. — Baltimore — Wash- 
 ington Junction (connects with Washing- 
 ton Branch Railway), 9 miles ; Ellicott's 
 Mills, 15 ; Elysville, 20; Marriottsville, 
 27; Sykesvillc, 31; Mount Airy, 42 ; 
 Monrovia, 50; Frederick Junction, 58; 
 Point of Rocks, 69; Hagerstown Junction 
 (connects with Washington County Di- 
 vision), 79 ; Sandy Hook, 80 ; Harper's 
 Ferry (connects with Winchester, Poto- 
 mac & Strasburg Division), si ; Dnffieldn, 
 s7; Kearneysvule, 92 ; Martinsburg, 100; 
 North Mountain, In? ; Cherry Run, 113 ; 
 Sleepy Creek, 117; Hancock, 128; Sir 
 John's Run (connects with stages for 
 Berkeley Springs), 128; L. Cacapon 
 
Stations.] 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE X. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 Siding, 156; Green Spring Run, 163; 
 Paterson's Creek, 170; Cumberland 
 ^connects with Cumberland and Pennsyl- 
 vania Railway), 178; Brady's Mill, 185; 
 Piedmont (connects with Cumberland & 
 Pennsylvania Railway), 206 ; Frankville, 
 214; Altamont, 223; Oakland, 232; 
 Cranberry Summit, 242 ; Rowlesburg, 
 253 ; Tunnelton, 260 ; Newburg, 266 ; 
 Grafton (connects with Parkersburg 
 Division), 279 ; Fetterman, 281 ; Texas, 
 294; Benton's Ferry, 297; Fairmont, 
 302 ; Farmington, 312; Mannington, 
 319; Littleton, 33*7; Bellton, 344; 
 Cameron, 351; Moundsville, 360; Ben- 
 wood (connects with Central Ohio Di- 
 vision), 375. 
 
 Stations — Central Ohio Division. — 
 Bellaire, 376 miles from Baltimore ; Glen- 
 coe, 386 ; Warnock, 388 ; Lewis's Mills, 
 391 ; Belmont, 394 ; Burr's Mill, 396 ; 
 Barncsville, 403 ; Spencer's, 410 ; Mill- 
 wood, 411 ; Salesville, 413 ; Gibson's, 
 417; Campbell's, 420; Cambridge, 428 ; 
 Casscl's, 432; Concord, 437; Norwich, 
 440 ; Sonora, 447 ; Coal Dale, 450 ; 
 Zanesville (connects with Cincinnati & 
 Zanesville Railway), 454 ; Dillon's Falls, 
 458 ; Pleasant Valley, 463 ; Claypool's, 
 466 ; Black Hand, 469 ; Clay Lick, 474 ; 
 Newark (connects with Lake Erie Divi- 
 sion and with Pittsburg, Cincinnati & 
 St. Louis Railway), 480 ; Union, 486 ; 
 Kirkersville, 491; Pataskala, 492; Co- 
 lumbia, 493 ; Black Lick, 499 ; Taylor's, 
 501 ; Columbus (connects with Little 
 Miami Railway, with Cleveland, Columbus, 
 Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway, with 
 Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway, with Springfield & Columbus 
 Railway, and with Columbus & Hocking 
 Valley Railway), 509. 
 
 Stations. — Little Miami Railway. — 
 Alton, 515 ; West Jciferson, 523 ; Lon- 
 don (connects with London Branch of Cin- 
 cinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland Railway), 
 534 ; South Charleston, 545 ; Cedarville, 
 556 ; Xenia (connects with Dayton & 
 Xenia and Dayton & Western Railways), 
 564 ; Corwin, 578 ; Fort Ancient, 588 ; 
 Morrow (connects with Cincinnati & 
 Muskingum Valley Railway), 593 ; South 
 Lebanon, 597 ; Foster's, 602 ; Loveland 
 (connects with Marietta & Cincinnati 
 Railway), 606; Milford, 615; Cincinnati 
 (connects with railways diverging from 
 
 Cincinnati, and with Cincinnati & Louis- 
 ville United States Mail Line Steamers), 
 629. 
 
 The grandeur of the scenery along 
 the line of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
 way makes it one of the most attractive 
 routes that tourists can take, and now it 
 possesses the additional interest of hav- 
 ing been the theatre of some of the most 
 exciting scenes in the late civil war. The 
 more important only can be mentioned 
 here, but the road is described with great 
 minuteness in Appletons' Hand-Book. of 
 Travel— Southern Todr. 
 
 As a grand trunk line, the Baltimore 
 & Ohio Railway is one of the most im- 
 portant in the country. The origina 
 road extended from Baltimore to Wheel- 
 ing on the Ohio River, a distance of 379 
 miles, and was first opened to the public 
 in 1853. Work was commenced on the 
 4th day of July, 1828, and the first sec- 
 tion, from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills, a 
 distance of 15 miles, was opened for travel 
 in August, 1830, the trial trip of the first 
 locomotive being made on the 25th of 
 that month. 
 
 Although commenced at the early date 
 named, it was not until the 1st of June, 
 1853, that the road was finished, when 
 for the first time a train passed over its 
 entire length. The completion was cele- 
 brated by a grand excursion and public 
 rejoicings along the whole line. 
 
 Since that time, by the construction 
 of branch roads, and by the absorption 
 of the Central Ohio and Sandusky, Mans- 
 field & Newark Hallways, it has added 842 
 miles to its track, and secured direct 
 communication with Lake Eric over its 
 own rails. 
 
 It suffered severely during the war, 
 by the destruction of its track, bridges, 
 and rolling-stock. On the 16th of May, 
 1861, several bridges were destroyed and 
 portions of the track torn up. June 14th, 
 the costly bridge at Harper's Ferry was 
 wholly destroyed ; and on the 23d of the 
 same month 46 locomotive engines and 
 upward of 300 cars, valued at nearly 
 half a million dollars, were burned by 
 order of the Confederate General, Joseph 
 E. Johnston. 
 
 To see this road, and the numerous 
 points and objects of interest tributary to 
 it, the traveller should be prepared to 
 61 
 
Baltimore.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mount Airy. 
 
 spend at least three days between Balti- 
 more and Wheeling; a fortnight might 
 well be passed in making the entire dis- 
 tance and returning. 
 
 ISiiltimore, M*J., the principal 
 city in the State, is fully described in 
 " Atfletons' Hand-Book of American 
 Travel — Southern Tour." 
 
 In leaving the city by this road, one no 
 sooner emerges from the dingy suburbs 
 than the pleasures of the trip commence. 
 Looking back, one obtains a good general 
 view of the city, and then crosses 
 
 Carrolllon Viaduct, a fine bridge of 
 dressed granite, with an arch of 80 feet 
 span, over Owl/mi's Falls, after which the 
 road soon reaches the long and deep ex- 
 cavation under the Washington Turnpike, 
 which is carried over the railroad by the 
 Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile farther 
 the " deep cut " is encountered, famous 
 for its difficulties in the early history of 
 the road. It is 76 feet in extreme depth, 
 and nearly half a mile in length. Beyond 
 this the road crosses the deep ravine of 
 Robert's Run, and, skirting the ore-banks 
 of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now 
 covered by a dense forest of cedar-trees, 
 comes to the long and deep embankment 
 over the valley of Gadibifs Run, and 
 the heavy cut through Vinegar Hill im- 
 mediately following it. 
 
 W znsliiiig-toii «J" sanction, 
 M*l. (9 miles), was formerly known as 
 the Relay House, from the stages for 
 Washington changing horses here. This 
 name, however, has been changed, so as 
 not to be confounded with a similar one 
 given to a station on the Northern Central 
 Railway. The branch to Washington 
 diverges here. Except as a railway junc- 
 tion the place has no importance. 
 
 At this point the open country of sand 
 and clay ends, and the region of rock 
 begins at the entrance to the gorge of 
 the Patapsco River. In entering this de- 
 file, there is a fine view of the Thomas 
 Viaduct (named after the first President 
 of the Company), a noble granite struct- 
 ure of eight elliptic arches, each of about 
 GO feet chord, spanning the stream at a 
 height of GG feet above the bed, and of a 
 total length of some 700 feet. The pretty 
 village of Elkridge Landing is in sight, and 
 upon the surrounding heights are seen a 
 number of pleasant country-seats. 
 G2 
 
 The road now pursues its devious course 
 up the river, passing the Avalon Iron 
 Works, a mile beyond Washington Junc- 
 tion, and two miles farther we come to 
 an iron bridge of 170 feet span, which 
 crosses the river at the Ilchester Mills, 
 at a very rugged part of the ravine. The 
 Thistle Cotton Factory appears imme- 
 diately beyond, and, soon after, Gray's 
 Cotton Factory comes in view. 
 
 miicott's Mills, Md. (15 miles), 
 is in a bold, rocky passage of the Patapsco, 
 which runs leaping and dashing through 
 the village in full view from the car-win- 
 dows. The constantly-changing scenery 
 is charming, and the old town itself is a 
 study for an artist. 
 
 The Frederick Turnpike-road passes 
 through the town here, and is crossed by 
 the railroad upon the Oliver Viadact, a 
 handsome stone bridge of three arches, 
 each of 20 feet span. Just beyond this 
 bridge is the Tarpeian Rock, a bold, in- 
 sulated mass of granite, between which 
 and the body of the clift' the railroad 
 edges its way. 
 
 Elysvllle, Mel. (20 miles), is tho 
 site of a large factory, which can be seen 
 from the cars. The road here (within a 
 short distance) twice crosses the river, 
 the first time by a viaduct of three spans, 
 each of 110 feet, and the second time by 
 another nearly as long. 
 
 Mnrriottsvillc, Mel. (27 miles), 
 a small place, noted for its lime-quar- 
 ries, along which the road runs, crosses 
 the Patapsco by an iron bridge 50 feet 
 span, and dashes through a sharp spur 
 of the hill by a tunnel 400 feet long in 
 mica-slate rock. After passing one or 
 two rocky hills at Hood's Mill, it leaves 
 the granite region and enters upon the 
 gentle slopes of the slate hills, among 
 which the river meanders until we reach 
 the foot of Parr's Ridge, which divides 
 the waters of the Patapsco from those of 
 the Potomac. 
 
 Mount Airy, M«l. (42 miles). 
 From the summit of the ridge at this sta- 
 tion is a noble view westward across the 
 Fredericktown Valley, and as far as the 
 Catoctin Mountain, some 15 miles distant. 
 The road thence descends into the valley 
 of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate 
 curves and gentle slopes, except where 
 in some places it breaks through ranges 
 
Frederick Jcnc'n.] BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE X. [Point of Rocks. 
 
 of trap rocks, which interpose themselves 
 among the softer shales. The Monrovia 
 and Ijamsville Stations are passed at 
 Bush Creek. The slates terminate at the 
 Monocacy Iliver, and the limestone of the 
 Frcdericktown Valley commences. The 
 Monocacy River is crossed by an iron 
 bridge of three spans, 110 feet each, 
 and elevated about 40 feet above its 
 bed. 
 
 The valley of the Monocacy is equally 
 remarkable for its beautiea of position, 
 its rich agricultural resources, and its 
 mineral wealth. 
 
 IFretlciriLclc JTnnctfioia, Mil. 
 (58 miles), better known as Monocacy, is 
 the point of departure for Frederick City. 
 Here the traveller will pass the battle- 
 ground where, on the 9th of July, 1864, 
 General Lew. Wallace and the Federal 
 forces were defeated by a superior Con- 
 ederate force, and compelled to retreat 
 to Baltimore. Subsequent developments 
 make it seem probable that the gallant 
 stand at the Monocacy Bridge by General 
 Wallace on that day, and the heavy loss 
 that he inflicted on the enemy, saved 
 Washington from capture on the 12th. 
 
 Freficrlclf City, Md. (62 
 miles), is reached by a branch from the 
 junction. It ranks as the third city in 
 the State, and is the capital of Frederick 
 County. It is well built, the houses being 
 generally of brick or stone, and the 
 streets are broad, straight, and laid out 
 regularly. It contains a fine court-house, 
 a number of handsome churches, and 
 several educational institutions, among 
 which St. John's Roman Catholic College 
 is the most prominent. 
 
 From the Monocacy to the Point of 
 Rocks, the road, having escaped from the 
 narrow, winding valleys to which it has 
 thus far been confined, bounds away over 
 the beautiful champaign country lying be- 
 tween that river and the Catoctin Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 This range of mountains, a continua- 
 tion of the Blue Ridge, runs west of Fred- 
 erick, due south, to the Point of Rocks. 
 Between this range and the South Moun- 
 tain, which slopes to the Potomac at 
 Knoxville, nestles Maryland's loveliest val- 
 ley, the valley of Catoctin, of which Mid- 
 dletown, 10 miles from Frederick, is the 
 centre. A conspicuous elevation at the 
 
 termination of the Catoctin range is 
 known as the Sugar-loaf Mountain. 
 
 J?oimt of Itoclts, Mtl. (69 miles). 
 This station takes its name from a bold 
 promontory, which is formed by the pro- 
 file of the Catoctin Mountain, against 
 the base of which the Potomac River 
 runs on the Maryland side, the moun- 
 tain towering up on the opposite (Vir- 
 ginia) shore forming the other barrier 
 of the pass. The railroad here passes 
 the point by a tunnel cut through the 
 solid rock for 1,500 feet. Two milea 
 beyond is another cliff, and more excava- 
 tion and walling. Beyond, the ground 
 becomes comparatively smooth, and the 
 railroad, leaving the immediate margin 
 of the river to the canal, runs along the 
 base of the gently-sloping hills, passing 
 the villages of Berlin and Knoxville, and 
 reaching the Weverton Factories, in the 
 pass to the South Mountain. 
 
 The Battle of South Mountain really 
 commenced at a bridge over Catoctin 
 Creek, half a mile west of Middletown, 
 where Confederate artillery had been 
 posted to dispute the passage. After 
 most desperate fighting, the crest of the 
 hill was gained by the Federal troops and 
 the enemy driven into the valley on the 
 west side of the mountain. Turner's Gap, 
 where the last desperate stand of the Con- 
 federate right was made, is two miles from 
 the base of the mountain. Cramplon's 
 Gap, through which passes the road from 
 Jefferson to Roherville, is six miles south. 
 
 From South Mountain to Harper's Fer- 
 ry, the road lies along the foot of a pre- 
 cipice for the greater part of the distance 
 of three miles, the last of which is immedi- 
 ately under the rocky cliffs of Elk Moun- 
 tain, forming the north side of this noted 
 pass. The Shenandoah River enters the 
 Potomac immediately below the bridge 
 over the latter, and their united currents 
 rush rapidly over the broad ledges of 
 rock which stretch across their bed. The 
 length of the bridge is about 900 feet, 
 and at its western end it divides into two, 
 the left-hand branch connecting with the 
 Winchester & Potomac Railway, which 
 passes directly up the Shenandoah, and 
 the right-hand carrying the main road, by 
 a strong curve in that direction, up the 
 Potomac. The bridge consists of six 
 arches of 130 and one arch of about *75 
 63 
 
Harper's Ferry.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [IlARrEu's Ferry. 
 
 feet span over the river, and an arch of 
 about 100 feet span over the canal ; all 
 of which are iron. This viaduct is re- 
 markable for its length and for its pecu- 
 liar structure, the two ends of it being 
 curved in opposite directions, and bifur- 
 cated at the western extremity. 
 
 Two miles before reaching Harper's 
 Ferry we come to Haycrstown Junction, 
 where the Washington County Division 
 of the road diverges. This division, con- 
 necting with the Cumberland Valley Jiail- 
 ivay, affords direct communication with 
 llarrisburg and the North. 
 
 Harper's fl-'era-y, W. Ta. (81 
 miles), and all its fine points of scenery, 
 are too well known to need elaborate 
 description here. The precipitous moun- 
 tains which rise from the water's edge 
 leave little level ground on the river 
 margin, and all of that was occupied by 
 the United States Armory buildings. 
 Hence the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 
 has been obliged to build itself a road in 
 the river-bed for upward of half a mile, 
 along the outer boundary of the Govern- 
 ment works, upon a trestle-work, resting, 
 on the side nest to the river, upon au in- 
 sulated wall of masonry, and upon the 
 other side supported by strong iron 
 columns placed upon the retaining wall 
 of the Armory grounds. 
 
 The town is delightfully situated at the 
 confluence of the Potomac and Shenan- 
 doah Rivers, in Jefferson County, Va., 160 
 miles north of Richmond and 53 miles 
 northwest of Washington. It is com- 
 pactly though irregularly built around the 
 base of a hill. 
 
 Besides the Armory, a National Arse- 
 nal was located there. Both buildings, 
 with nearly 15,000 stand of arms, were 
 destroyed by fire, April IS, 1861, on the 
 approach of the Virginia State troops. 
 Southern troops soon occupied the town 
 and adjacent heights, and, by May 20th, 
 the number of Confederate soldiers on the 
 spot was estimated at 8,000. On the 
 14th the point was evacuated. Previous 
 to the war it was a prosperous trading- 
 place, and was known in the early days 
 of Virginia as Shenandoah Falls, it w;is 
 once "the garden spot of Virginia; " but 
 war, though it has rendered it more inter- 
 esting to the traveller, has, for the present 
 at least, robbed it of its claim to the 
 G4 
 
 former distinction. It was the scene of 
 the exploits which in October, 185'.i, ren- 
 dered the name of John Brown, of Ossa- 
 wattomie-Kansas notoriety, still more no- 
 torious. Charlestown, the county-seat, 
 where Brown and his followers were tried 
 and executed, is seven miles distant, on 
 the road to Winchester. Visitors to Har- 
 per's Ferry should not fail to see the Mary- 
 land Heights, Bolivar Heights, Loudon 
 Heights, and the fortifications which have 
 been erected on them. This was the 
 theatre of one of Stonewall Jackson's 
 most famous exploits, when Harper's 
 Ferry was taken by the Confederates in 
 September, 186:}. 
 
 After passing the site of the uppermost 
 of the Armory buildings, the road runs 
 along the outer bank of the Chesapeake 
 & Ohio Canal, which brings the water 
 of the river to the works, and soon 
 crosses this canal by an iron bridge 150 
 feet span. Thence the road passes up 
 the river on the inner side of the canal, 
 and opposite the dam at its head, about 
 one and three-quarters of a mile from the 
 mouth of the Shenandoah, and pierces a 
 projecting rock by a tunnel or gallery of 
 80 feet in length. 
 
 The view down the river through this 
 perforation is singularly picturesque, pre- 
 senting the pass through the mountain at 
 the confluence of the rivers in one of its 
 most remarkable aspects. A short dis- 
 tance above the tunnel, where the river 
 sweeps gradually round to the eastward 
 in the broad smooth sheet of water cre- 
 ated by the dam, the railroad leaves the 
 Potomac and passes up the ravine of Elk 
 Branch, which presents itself at this point 
 in a favorable direction. This ravine, at 
 first narrow and serpentine, becomes 
 wider and more direct, until it almost 
 loses itself in the rolling table-land which 
 characterizes the " Valley of Virginia." 
 The head of Elk Branch is reached in 
 about nine miles, and thence the line de- 
 scends gradually over an undulating 
 champaign country, to the crossing of 
 the "Opequon" Creek, which it passes 
 by an iron bridge of 150 feet span and 
 40 feet above the water surface. Beyond 
 the (Tossing the road enters the open 
 valley of Tusearora Creek, which it 
 crosses twice and follows to the town of 
 Martinsburg. 
 
Kearneysville.] BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, EOUTE X. [Sir John's Run. 
 
 At Harper's Ferry the Winchester, Poto- 
 mac & Strasbourg Division, which runs 
 through the celebrated Shenandoah Val- 
 ley, di verges. 
 
 Eicaa-neysvilte, "W. Ta. (92 
 miles), was the scene of many cavalry 
 fights between Generals Pleasanton, 
 Avcrill, Custer, and Merritt, ou the one 
 side, and Fitz Lee and Stuart on the 
 other. This part of the road, and indeed 
 the whole region around Martinsburg, in- 
 cluding that^town itself, was occupied 
 alternately at least fifteen times during 
 the war, by the Federal and the Confed- 
 erate soldiers, and battles were almost 
 continually taking place in its vicinity. 
 
 From this point, by riding seven miles 
 over the turnpike-road to Sharpsburff, Md., 
 where good conveyances can be had, the 
 tourist can reach the celebrated battle- 
 field of Antietam, the scene of one of the 
 fiercest contests of the war. The battle 
 was fought on the 17th of September, 
 1862, between the Union forces under 
 General McClellan and the Confederates 
 under Genei'al Lee. The latter was de- 
 feated and driven back across the Poto- 
 mac, this battle closing the campaign for 
 the year. 
 
 Although the battle of Antietam is 
 spoken of, much of the fighting was done 
 in the village of Sharpsburg, which is 
 situated near the west bank of Antietam 
 Creek, 14 miles south of Hagerstown. The 
 town still bears many marks of the fight, 
 the houses being perforated by shells, and 
 defaced by Minie balls. The Lutheran 
 and Episcopal Churches suffered so se- 
 verely that they had to be pulled down. 
 The principal object of interest, next to 
 the battle-field itself, a fine view of which 
 it commands, is the National Cemetery. 
 The plan originated with Governor Brad- 
 ford, was approved by the General As- 
 sembly of 1865, and the grounds located 
 on the site they now occupy upon the 
 summit of the most prominent hill of the 
 range selected by Lee for his line of bat- 
 tle. The view is at once commanding 
 and beautiful. 
 
 MartiusIsTJiirg', W. Va. (100 
 miles), is in many respects an old- 
 fashioned-looking place, and, except for 
 its war record, of no great interest. It is 
 the capital of Berkeley County, West 
 Virginia, and is pleasantly situated on 
 
 Tuscarora Creek; a rapid stream, which 
 affords fine manufacturing advantages. 
 Here the traveller will find the scene of 
 the most destructive labors of the Con- 
 federate troops. It was here, and near 
 here, on the 23d June, 1861, that 87 loco- 
 motives and 400 freight-cars, belonging to 
 the railroad company, were collected by 
 the Confederate troops under Jackson's 
 personal direction, and burned or de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 At Martinsburg the Tuscarora is 
 bridged twice, the crossing east of the 
 town being made upon a viaduct of 10 
 spans of 44 feet each, of iron, supported 
 by two abutments and 17 stone columns. 
 The architectural effect of this structure 
 is good. 
 
 During the war Martinsburg was some- 
 times in the hands of one of the contend- 
 ing parties, and sometimes in the hands 
 of the other. The railway company at 
 this point have built extensive shops, fine 
 in architectural appearance, and fur- 
 nished with all the modern mechanical 
 appliances for the construction and re- 
 pair of cars and engines. 
 
 Non-ili Mountain, W. Va. 
 (107 miles), is where the road crosses 
 the mountain by a long excavation 63 feet 
 in depth, cut in the slate-rock, through a 
 depression therein, passing out of the 
 valley, having traversed its entire length 
 upon a line 26 miles in length. On leav- 
 ing these rich and well-tilled lands, we 
 enter a poor and thinly-settled district, 
 covered chiefly with a forest in which 
 stunted pine prevails. There is a heavy 
 excavation and embankment for four or 
 five miles from the North Mountain. The 
 trains cross Back Creek over a double- 
 track iron bridge, 80 feet span, and 54 
 feet above the stream. The view of the 
 Potomac Valley is magnificent as one ap- 
 proaches the bridge. It extends as far 
 as the distant mountain-range of Sideling 
 Hill, 25 miles to the west. The immedi- 
 ate margin of the river is reached at a 
 point opposite the ruins of Fort Frederick, 
 on the Maryland side. The fort was 
 built more than a hundred years ago. 
 
 Reefing Creek, W. Ta. (117 
 miles). The road crosses the stream of 
 this name, by a viaduct of two spans of 
 110 feet each. 
 
 Sir John's Run, W. ¥a. (128 
 05 
 
Bir Joiin's Run.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [CUMBERLAND. 
 
 miles), was the scene of much warlike 
 preparation and activity during the early 
 days of the civil war. It is the point of 
 departure for the Berkeley Springs, which 
 arc situated at the eastern base of the 
 Warm Spring Ridge, two miles distant 
 from the railway-station, and arc much 
 frequented by travellers. The hotel is 
 elegantly fitted up, lighted by gas, and is 
 well kept during the season. Coaches 
 await the arrival of the trains. 
 
 Leaving Sir John's Bun, the track 
 sweeps around the termination of the 
 Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remark- 
 able and insulated eminence called the 
 " Round Top." Thence on to the cross- 
 ing of the Great Cacapon River, nine and 
 a half miles above Hancock, which is 
 crossed by a bridge about 300 feet in 
 length. Within the next mile it passes 
 dam No. 6 of the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Canal, and soon after it enters the gap of 
 Sideling Hill. 
 
 The next point of interest reached is 
 the Tunnel at Doe Gully. The approaches 
 are very imposing, as for several miles 
 above and below the tunnel they cause 
 the road to occupy a high level on the 
 slopes of the river hills, and thus afford 
 an extensive view of the grand mountain 
 scenery around. 
 
 The Paw Paw Ridge Tunnel is next 
 reached, 30 miles from Hancock, and 25 
 miles below Cumberland. The bore is 
 through a soft slate-rock, and is curved 
 horizontally with a radius of 750 feet. 
 
 The viaduct over Little Cacapon Creek is 
 143 feet long. About five and a half miles 
 farther on, the south branch of the Poto- 
 mac is crossed on a bridge 400 feet long. 
 
 Some two miles above is a fine straight 
 line over the widely-expanded flats oppo- 
 site the ancient settlement of Old Town, 
 in Maryland. These are the finest bottom- 
 lands on the Potomac, and from the upper 
 end of them is obtained the first view of 
 the Knobly Mountain, that remarkable 
 range which lies in a line with the town 
 of Cumberland, and is so singularly di- 
 versified by a profile which makes it ap- 
 pear like a succession of artificial mounds. 
 DaiCt Mountain towers over it, forming 
 a fine background to the view. Soon 
 after, the route passes the high dill's 
 known as Kelly'' a Bocks, where there has 
 been a very heavy excavation. 
 66 
 
 Patterson's Creelf, W. Va. 
 (170 miles), is at the mouth of the stream 
 from which it takes its name. 
 
 Immediately below this stream is a high 
 precipice of limestone and sandstone 
 rock, singularly perforated in some of the 
 ledges by openings which look like Gothic 
 loopholes. The valley of this creek is 
 very straight and bordered by beautiful 
 flats. The viaduct over the stream is 
 150 feet long. Less than two miles above, 
 and six miles from Cumberland, the north 
 branch of the Potomac is crossed by a. 
 viaduct 700 feet long, and rising in a suc- 
 cession of steps — embracing also a cross- 
 ing of the Chcsa]xake & Ohio Canal 
 This extensive bridge carries us out of 
 Virginia, and lands us once more in Mary, 
 land, which we left at Harper's Ferry. 
 
 The route thence to Cumberland ia 
 across two bends of the river, between 
 which the stream of EvetVs Creek ia 
 crossed by a viaduct of 100 feet span. 
 
 Cumi»ei*lRtt«3, M «!. (178 miles), 
 is in the mountain-region of the narrow 
 strip which forms the western part of 
 the State, and in point of population and 
 trade is its second city. 
 
 It is the eastern terminus of the Great 
 National Road leading to the Mississippi, 
 and is also the western terminus of the 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. In the vicin- 
 ity are fine beds of coal. Cumberland 
 has a court-house, county jail, several 
 banks, some handsome churches and a 
 good hotel. 
 
 The company has built at this point 
 one of the most extensive steel-rail mills 
 in the country, for the purpose of manu- 
 facturing its own rails. 
 
 The entrance to the town is beautiful, 
 and displays the noble amphitheatre in 
 which it lies to great advantage, the gap 
 of Will's Mountain, westward of the town, 
 being a prominent feature of the view. 
 
 The brick and stone viaduct over Will's 
 Creek deserves particular notice. It con- 
 sists of 14 elliptical arches of 50 feet spun 
 and 13 feet rise, and is a well-built and 
 very handsome structure. 
 
 From Cumberland to Piedmont, 28 
 miles, the scenery is remarkably pictu- 
 resque, perhaps more so than along any 
 other section of the road of simi- 
 lar length. For the first 22 miles, to 
 the mouth of New Creek, the Knobly 
 
PlKDMONT.] 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE X. [Cheat River 
 
 Mountain bounds the valleys of the North 
 Branch of the rotomac on the left, and 
 Will's and Dan's Mountains on the right; 
 thence to Piedmont, the river lies in the 
 gap which it has cut through the latter 
 mountain. 
 
 Chimney-Hole Rock, at the termination 
 of Fort Hill, is a singular crag, through 
 the base of which the railroad company 
 has driven a tunnel under the road to 
 answer the purpose of a bridge for sev- 
 eral streams entering the river at that 
 point. 
 
 The curious cliffs which are passed dur- 
 ing the first 10 miles after leaving Cum- 
 berland; the wide bottom-lands extend- 
 ing for the next four miles ; the high 
 rocky bluffs along Fort Bill, and the 
 grand precipice opposite to them on the 
 Virginia shore, immediately below the 
 "Black Oak Bottom" a celebrated farm 
 embracing 500 acres in a single plain, be- 
 tween mountains of great height, are all 
 objects worthy of the notice of the tour- 
 ist. 
 
 The crossing of the Potomac, from the 
 Maryland to the Virginia shore, is 21 miles 
 from Cumberland, where the railroad, 
 after passing through a long and deep 
 excavation, spans the river by a bridge of 
 iron, on stone abutments and a pier. The 
 view at this point, both up and down the 
 river, is very fine. The Bull's Head Bock, 
 a mile beyond this bridge, is a prominent 
 object. 
 
 Piedmont, W. ^Ta. (206 miles). 
 Here the traveller reaches, as the name 
 implies, the foot of the Alleghany Moun- 
 tains. This is the end of the second 
 Division of the road, and here are located 
 a hotel and extensive machine-shops. 
 The village stands at the mouth of George 
 Creek, and opposite is the ancient village 
 of Westenport. The Cumberland <£• Penn- 
 sylvania Railway connects here. 
 
 We now commence the ascent of the 
 Allegbanies. Passing up the valley of 
 Savage River, through the Everett Tunnel, 
 past the mouth of Crabtree Creek, where, 
 in military parlance, the road turns the 
 flank of the Great Backbone Mountain, 
 we reach Altamont, in Alleghany County. 
 
 Altamont, Md. (223 miles), is 
 2,700 feet above the city of Baltimore, and 
 upon the extreme summit of the Al- 
 leshanics. It is here that the mountain- 
 
 streams divide, flowing in one direction 
 toward the Ohio River, the Mississippi, 
 and the Gulf of Mexico, and in the other 
 toward the Potomac River, the Chesa- 
 peake Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 From Altamont westward, for a dis- 
 tance of nearly twenty miles, are beautiful 
 natural meadows lying along the upper 
 waters of the Youghioghcny (Yo-ho-ga- 
 nee) River, and its numerous tributaries, 
 divided by ridges generally of moderate 
 elevation and gentle slope, with fine ranges 
 of mountains in the background. These 
 meadows are known as the " Glades." 
 
 Oakland, Md. (232 miles), is a 
 place of resort with tourists. It has a 
 good hotel. 
 
 The Great and Little Youghioghcny, 
 close by, are famous trouting streams, and 
 the glades and oak-clad hills in the neigh- 
 borhood abound with game. 
 
 The crossing of the great Voughio- 
 gheny River is by a viaduct of iron — a 
 single arch of 180 feet span resting on 
 stone abutments. The site of this fine 
 structure is wild, the river running here 
 in a woody gorge. 
 
 A few miles beyond Oakland, the boun- 
 dary-line between Maryland and West 
 Virginia is crossed. 
 
 Cranberry Summit, W. Va. 
 (242 miles). From this point magnificent 
 views to the west are to be had. The 
 descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre- 
 sents a rapid succession of very heavy 
 excavations and embankments. At one 
 point the road, after skirting a beautiful 
 glade, enters a wild-looking pass through 
 a deep forest of hemlocks and laurel-thick- 
 ets, the stream dashing over large rocks 
 and washing the side of the road but a 
 few feet below its level. These are known 
 as the Falls of Snowy Creek. There are 
 also two tunnels, viz., the McGuire Tun- 
 nel of 500, and the Rodcmer Tunnel of 
 400 feet in length, secured by the most 
 durable arches of stone and brick. There 
 is also a stone and iron viaduct over Salt 
 Lick Creek 50 feet span and 50 feet high. 
 The creek passes through a dense forest 
 of fir-trees in its approach to the river. 
 
 Cheat ISiver is a dark, rapid 
 mountain-stream, whose waters are of a 
 curious coffee-colored hue, owing, it is 
 said, to its rising in forests of laurel and 
 black spruce on the highest mountain 
 67 
 
Cheat River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Fetterman. 
 
 levels of that country. This, stream is 
 crossed by a viaduct consisting of two 
 arches, 180 and 130 feet span, of timber 
 and iron, on stone abutments and a pier. 
 
 The name of this river well describes 
 its character, which is treacherous in the 
 extreme. The mountains on either side 
 are not sufficiently covered with soil to 
 absorb the rain, and consequently during 
 a heavy mountain-shower the river rises 
 very rapidly. When the rain ceases the 
 flood subsides as rapidly as it has risen. 
 It thus often happens that what in the 
 morning seems to be only a little stream, 
 a few hours later looks like a great 
 river. 
 
 We next ascend the Cheat River Hill 
 and pass along a part of the line to 
 open which the greatest natural ob- 
 structions had to be met. The difficul- 
 ties encountered in the four miles west 
 of the crossing of the river would seem 
 to be insuperable. The road, winding up 
 the slope of Laurel Hill and its spurs, 
 with the river on the right hand, first 
 crosses the ravine of Kyer's Run, 70 feet 
 deep, by a solid embankment ; then, after 
 passing through a bold cutting, and along 
 a steep, rocky hill-side, it reaches Buckeye 
 Hollow, the depth of which is 108 feet 
 below the road-level, and 400 feet across 
 at that level. Then there is more side 
 cutting in the rock, and the passage of 
 two or three coves in the hill-side, when 
 we come to Tray Run, and cross it, 150 
 feet above its original bed, by an iron 
 trestle-work of light and graceful con- 
 struction, 600 feet long at the road-level. 
 
 For several miles on this part of the line, 
 the road runs along the steep mountain- 
 side, presenting a succession of land- 
 scapes. In favorable weather, day trains 
 stop ten minutes to allow travellers an 
 opportunity to view the viaduct and sce- 
 nery of this part of the line. 
 
 After passing these two tremendous 
 clefts in the mountain-side, the road winds 
 along a precipitous slope with heavy cut- 
 ting, filling, and walling, to Buckhorn. 
 Branch, a wide and deep cove on the 
 western flank of the mountain. This is 
 crossed by a solid embankment and re- 
 taining wall 90 feet high at its most ele- 
 vated point. Some half mile farther, 
 after more heavy cuts and fills, the road 
 leaves the declivity of the river, which, 
 08 
 
 where we see it for the last time, lies 500 
 feet below us, and turns westward through 
 a low gap, which admits it by a pretty 
 deep cutting, followed soon by a deeper 
 and longer one through Cassidy's Summit 
 Ridge to the table-land of the country 
 bordering Cheat River on the west. Here, 
 80 miles from Cumberland, we enter the 
 great western coal-fields, having passed 
 out of the Cumberland field 35 miles from 
 that place. 
 
 Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, and 
 passing by a high embankment over the 
 Bushy Fork of Pi-ingle's Run, the line 
 soon reaches the Kingwood Tunnel, the 
 longest finished tunnel in America. This 
 is 4,100 feet long. It was constructed by 
 Benjamin H. Latrobe. It took five years 
 to complete it, costing $1,000,000. 
 
 New!>urg-, W. Ta. (266 miles). 
 From Kingwood Tunnel to this point the 
 line descends a steep hill-side for five 
 miles until it reaches the flats of Raccoon 
 Creek, upon which the village is situated. 
 In this distance it lies high above the 
 valley, and crosses a branch of it with 
 an embankment 100 feet high. There 
 are two other heavy fills farther on. Two 
 miles west of Kingwood Tunnel is Mur- 
 ray's Tunnel, 250 feet long, a regular and 
 beautiful semicircular arch cut out of a 
 fine solid sandstone rock, overlying a 
 vein of coal six feet thick, which is seen 
 on the floor of the tunnel. 
 
 From Newburg, westward, the route 
 pursues the valleys of Raccoon and Three 
 Forks Creeks, which present no features 
 of difficulty, to the Grafton Station. 
 
 CSrnl'tora, W. la. (279 miles), 
 is where the JParkersburg Division di- 
 verges. It is pleasantly situated on the 
 Tygarfs Valley River, which is crossed 
 at this point by a handsome iron bridge. 
 Here terminates the third or mountain 
 division of the line. Grafton has a good 
 hotel and dining-saloon. 
 
 l^ettcrnmm, W. Va. (281 
 miles), a promising village, is next 
 reached. Here the turnpike to Marietta 
 and Parkersburg crosses the river. The 
 route from Fetterman to Fairmont lias but 
 one very striking feature: the lygarVt 
 Valley River, whose margin it follows, is 
 a beautiful and winding stream, of gentle 
 current, except at (lie Falls, where the 
 river descends, principally by three or 
 
Fairmont.] 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE X. [Mocndsyille. 
 
 four vertical pitches, some 70 feet in 
 about a mile. The view in fine weather 
 is charming. A mile and a half above 
 Fairmont the Tygart's Valley River and 
 the West Fork River unite to form the 
 Monongahda, the first being the larger 
 of the two confluents. 
 
 A quarter of a mile below their junc- 
 tion, the railroad crosses the Mononga- 
 hda, upon a viaduct 650 feet long and 39 
 feet above low-water surface. The lofty 
 and massive abutments of this bridge sup- 
 port an iron superstructure of three arches 
 of 200 feet span each. It was five times 
 destroyed and rebuilt during the war. 
 
 Fairmont, W. Va, (302 miles), 
 the capital of Marion County, is at the 
 head of navigation on the Monongahda 
 River, which is here spanned by a fine sus- 
 pension bridge 1,000 feet in length, con- 
 necting Fairmont with the village of 
 Palatine. A mile and a half below Fair- 
 mont the road leaves the valley of the 
 Monongahela, and ascends the winding 
 and picturesque ravine of Buffalo Creek, 
 a stream some 25 miles in length. The 
 creek is first crossed five miles west of 
 Fairmont, again at two points a short 
 distance apart, and again about nine miles 
 farther west. 
 
 Mannington, W. ?a. (319 
 miles), is situated at the mouth of File's 
 Fork of the Buffalo. There is a beauti- 
 ful flat here on both sides of the stream, 
 offering a site for a fair-sized town. It is 
 surrounded by picturesque hills. Thence 
 to the head of Pile's Fork, the road trav- 
 erses at first a narrow and serpentine 
 gorge, with five bridges at different 
 points, after which it courses with more 
 gentle curvatures along a wider and rather 
 winding valley, with meadow-land of one 
 or two hundred yards breadth on the one 
 or the other margin. Numerous tributaries 
 open out pretty vistas on cither hand. 
 This part of the valley, in its summer 
 dress, is singularly beautiful. After 
 reaching its head at Glover's Gap, 23 
 miles beyond Fairmont, the road passes 
 the ridge by deep cuts, and a tunnel of 
 350 feet long, of curious shape, forming 
 a sort of Moorish arch in its roof. From 
 this summit (which divides the waters of 
 the Monongahela from those of the Ohio) 
 the line descends by Church's Fork of 
 Fish Creek — a valley of the same general 
 
 features with the one just passed on the 
 eastern side of the ri'Jge. 
 
 The road now becomes winding, and in 
 the next four miles we cross the creek 
 eight times. We also pass Cole's Tunnel, 
 112 feet, Eaton's Tunnel, 170 feet, and 
 Marten's Tunnel, 180 feet long. 
 
 ILittleton, W. Va. (332 miles), 
 is a small village. Just beyond it is 
 Board Tree Tunnel, which is 40 miles 
 east of Wheeling. It passes under a 
 great hill, originally crossed by the rail- 
 road on a zigzag track with seven angles 
 representing seven Vs. 
 
 Leaving Board Tree Tunnel, the line 
 descends along the hill-side of the North 
 Fork of Fish Creek, crossing ravines and 
 spurs by deep fillings and cuttings, and 
 reaching the level of the flats bordering 
 the Creek at Bell's Mill ; soon after which 
 it crosses the creek and ascends Hart's- 
 Run and Four-Mile Run to the Welling 
 Tunnel, 50 miles west of Fairmont, and 
 28 from Wheeling. This tunnel is 1,250 
 feet long, and pierces the ridge between 
 Fish Creek and Grave Creek. It is 
 through slate-rock, like the Board Tree 
 Tunnel, and is substantially arched with 
 brick and stone. 
 
 From the Welling Tunnel the line fol- 
 lows the valley of Grave Creek, 17 miles 
 to its mouth at the Flats of Grave Creek 
 on the Ohio River, 11 miles below Wheel- 
 ing. The first five miles of the ravine are 
 of gentle curvature and open aspect, like 
 the others already mentioned. Afterward it 
 becomes very sinuous, and the stream has 
 to be bridged eight times. There are also 
 several deep cuts through sharp ridges 
 in the bends of the creek, and one tunnel 
 400 feet long at Sheppard's, 19 miles from 
 Wheeling. 
 
 MonmtSsxille, W. Va. (308 
 miles), is one of the two villages at the 
 point where Big and Little Grave Creeks 
 enter the Ohio River, the other being 
 Hlizabethtovm. The approach to the Ohio 
 at this point is very beautiful. The line, 
 emerging from the defile of Grave Creek, 
 passes straight over the " flats " which 
 border the river, and forming a vast roll- 
 ing plain, in the middle of which looms 
 up the "great Indian mound," 80 feet 
 high and 200 feet broad at its base. It 
 is between the two villages. The " flats " 
 embrace an area of some 4,000 acres, 
 69 
 
Benwood.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [PARI»ERSBtTR<J. 
 
 about three-fourths of which lies on the 
 Virginia, and the remaining fourth on 
 the Ohio side of the river. The soil is 
 fertile and well cultivated. 
 
 About three miles up the river from 
 Moundsville, the " flats " terminate, and 
 the road passes for a mile along rocky 
 narrows washed by the river, after which 
 it runs over wide, rich, and beautiful bot- 
 tom-lands, all the way to Wheeling. 
 
 ILBeaiwood, W. Ta. (375 miles), 
 is the last station in West Virginia, and 
 here connections are made by ferry with 
 the Central Ohio Division. 
 
 Hellair, &. (376 miles), is the first 
 station on this line in the State. 
 
 ISelmont, ©. (394 miles), is in 
 the midst of a well-watered, fertile, and 
 hilly country. There are rich coal-mines 
 in the vicinity. 
 
 Cambridge, O. (428 miles), is 
 the capital of Guernsey County, and con- 
 tains the county buildings. Coal is 
 found in abundance in the vicinity. 
 
 iZanesville, O. (454 miles), the 
 capital of Muskingum County, is a thriv- 
 ing and beautiful city on the left bank 
 of the Muskingum Jiiver, which flows 
 through a fertile and productive country, 
 and is navigable to this point. The city is 
 regularly laid out, the streets are wide, 
 well-shaded and adorned by many hand- 
 some buildings. The river affords a fine 
 water-power, and, as there are extensive 
 coal-fields in the neighborhood, Zanesville 
 has great advantages as a manufacturing 
 place. It is supplied with water from 
 the river, the distribution being effected 
 through pipes from a reservoir which 
 holds 2,000,000 gallons. Besides the 
 usual public schools, there is here a free 
 school richly endowed by John Mclntyre, 
 one of the early settlers of the place. 
 The railroad bridge across the river is of 
 iron. It is 538 feet long. The Cincin- 
 nati <£• Jluskhigum Valley Railway con- 
 nects here. Population, 10,011. 
 
 Newark, ©. (480 miles), con- 
 nects with Lake Erie Division and with 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati <b St. Louis Railway. 
 (See page 2G.) 
 
 The other stations, es far as Cincinnati, 
 have already been described. (See pages 
 20 to 41.) 
 
 70 
 
 BO XI TE XI. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Via Baltimore c6 Ohio. Marietta &■ Cincin- 
 nati, and OJdo db Mississippi Railways. 
 (Time, U tirs.—l'are, $24.) 
 
 As far as Grafton, 279 miles from 
 Baltimore on the main line, this route has 
 been fully described in Route X. At 
 Grafton the traveller takes the Parkers- 
 burg Division, upon which are the fol- 
 lowing 
 
 Stations : — Grafton, 279 miles from 
 Baltimore ; Webster, 283 ; Simpson's, 
 287 ; Flemington, 289 ; Bridgeport, 296 ; 
 Clarksburg, 301 ; Wilsonburg, 305 ; 
 Cherry Camp, 313; Salem, 315; Long 
 Run, 320 ; Smithton, 325 ; West Union, 
 329 ; Central, 331 ; Pennsboro', 341 ; 
 Ellenboro', 346 ; Cornwallis, 351 ; Cairo, 
 354 ; Petroleum, 361 ; L. F. Junction, 
 363 ; Eaton's, 364 ; Walker's, 368 ; 
 Kanawha, 373 ; Claysville, 376 ; Parkers- 
 burg (connects with Marietta & Cincin- 
 nati Railway), 383. 
 
 &raHton, W. Va. (279. miles). 
 (-See page 68.) From Grafton to the 
 Ohio River the road passes through a 
 well-wooded country, rich in coal and 
 petroleum. Aside from this, it is very 
 rough and unproductive, and without in- 
 terest to the tourist. For the most part, 
 the villages are small and unimportant. 
 
 Clarikstoairg, W. Va. (301 
 miles), the first station of any conse- 
 quence, is the capital of Harrison County. 
 It is situated on a high table-land on the 
 west bank of the Jlonongahela Jiiver, and 
 is surrounded by hills. There are valu- 
 able mines of bituminous coal in the 
 vicinity. 
 
 I*e4rolcBiiii, W. Va. (361 
 miles), is the centre of the rich oil-regions 
 of West Virginia. 
 
 Claysville, IV. Va.(376 miles), 
 is situated on the Little Kanawha Hirer. 
 It has a fine water-power, and several 
 mills. 
 
 Parkcrsburg, W. Va. (383 
 miles), the capital of Wood County, is 
 situated upon the Ohio River at the 
 mouth of the Little Kanawha. It is a 
 pleasant place and is neatly built. Petro* 
 leum is abundant in the vicinity. 
 
 On January 9, 18*71, a bridge across tho 
 Ohio to Belpre was opened to the public 
 
Stations.] 
 
 BALTIMORE TO ST. LOUIS, ROUTE XL [Blanchesteb. 
 
 The first stone was laid in July, 1869, 
 and the whole structure completed on 
 January 7, 1871. It is said that no work 
 of similar magnitude has ever been con- 
 structed in this country in such a brief 
 period. Some idea of the labor and ex- 
 pense incurred in bridging the river at 
 this point may be formed from the fol- 
 lowing statistics : The total length is one 
 mile and 1,762 feet ; the two main chan- 
 nel spans are each 350 feet, and are 90 
 feet above low-water mark ; there are four 
 river spans, 210 feet in length. In addi- 
 tion, on the Ohio side, there are five 
 spans of 120 feet each ; two of 126 feet, 
 and two "approach" spans of 55 feet; 
 while on the Virginia side, there are eight 
 spans of 100 feet ; twelve of 59 feet ; 
 three of 62 feet, and eleven smaller ones 
 averaging from 25 to 30 feet. 
 
 The bridge is approached on the Ohio 
 side by an embankment more than a mile 
 long, in the formation of which every 
 precaution has been taken to guard 
 against the occurrence of slides or wash- 
 ing, to which work of this character is 
 more or less subject. The total cost of 
 this bridge and approaches exceeds a 
 million dollars. 
 
 Marietta & Cincinnati Railway Sta- 
 tions. — Belpre, 384 miles from Baltimore ; 
 Scott's Landing, 393 ; Vincent's, 403 ; 
 Cutter, 410 ; New England, 419 ; War- 
 ren's, 423 ; Athens, 429 ; Marshfield, 436 ; 
 Zaleski, 449 ; Hamden (Junction of Ports- 
 mouth Branch), 460 ; Raysville, 471 ; 
 Londonderry, 478 ; Schooley's, 483 ; 
 Chillicothe (crosses Ohio Canal), 490 ; 
 Frankfort, 503; Greenfield, 514; Mon- 
 roe, 520 ; Lexington, 526 ; Vienna, 531 ; 
 Martinsville, 538 ; Blanchester (Hills- 
 borough Branch diverges), 547 ; Spence's, 
 557 ; Loveland (connects with Little 
 Miami Railway), 563 ; Montgomery, 568 ; 
 MadisonvOle, 574 ; Cincinnati, Hamilton 
 & Dayton Junction, 581 ; Cincinnati, 589. 
 
 !5elpr6, O. (384 miles), on the 
 Ohio River, the first station in Ohio, is 
 only a small place. 
 
 Atliems, ©. (429 miles), the capital 
 of Athens County, is pleasantly situated 
 upon the Hocking River. The Ohio 
 University, founded in 1804, the oldest 
 college in the State, is located here, as 
 also is one of the Slate Lunatic Asylums. 
 The Hocking Valley Railway affords direct 
 
 railway communication with Columbus. 
 In the neighborhood are several Indian 
 mounds similar to the one at Mounds- 
 ville. 
 
 llnntdesa, O. (460 miles), is the 
 junction of the branch road to Ports- 
 mouth on the Ohio, at the mouth of the 
 Scioto River. 
 
 CliilllcottSse, O. (490 miles), is 
 the capital of Ross County, and is beauti- 
 fully situated on the east bank of the 
 Scioto River, in the midst of a very fertile 
 and productive region. It has a large 
 trade, being the commercial centre of 
 this section of the State, and has the 
 advantage, not only of railway connec- 
 tions, but also of being upon the Ohio & 
 Erie Canal. 
 
 The city is built upon a plateau, 
 through which flows the beautiful Scioto, 
 and is surrounded by high hills. It is 
 regularly laid out with broad, pleasant 
 streets, and has many handsome build- 
 ings, embracing churches, school-houses, 
 and a stone court-house which cost over 
 $100,000. 
 
 Chillicothe is a very old place, having 
 been founded in 1796. It was from 1800 
 to 1810 the capital of the State. After- 
 ward the seat of government was removed 
 to Zanesville, and subsequently to Co- 
 lumbus. Chillicothe does not owe all its 
 prosperity to its commercial importance, 
 but, being the seat of several manufac- 
 tories, and being within easy access of 
 the coal and iron regions of Ohio, by 
 means of the Marietta & Cincinnati Rail- 
 way, it is a good place for the investment 
 of capital. 
 
 IVaitlcfort, ©. (503 miles), is a 
 growing village, situated in a rich and 
 populous farming region. 
 
 Gveeiaffielal, <[>. (511 miles), has 
 an active trade, the country in the vicinity 
 being rich and highly cultivated ; in fact, 
 one travelling through this part of the 
 State cannot but be struck with the 
 beauty of the villages, the fertility of the 
 land, and the high state of cultivation to 
 which it has been brought. 
 
 ILexii&g-tois, ©. (526 miles), on the 
 Clear Pork of Mohiccan River, is a flour- 
 ishing milling village. 
 
 IIlancBaester, O. (517 miles), is 
 the point where the road branches to 
 Hillsborough, a distance of 21 miles. 
 71 
 
LOVELAND.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Sterling. 
 
 Ijovolniid, O. (563 miles), is the 
 crossing of the TAttle Miami Railway. 
 
 t'iiacinaaati, $b. (589 miles). (See 
 page 31.) From Cincinnati to St. Louis 
 the road has already been described. 
 (See page 59.) 
 
 St. ILoaats, Bio. (By this Route 
 973 miles from Baltimore.) (See page 
 46.) 
 
 MO U TE XII. 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 
 
 Via Chicago A Northwestern Railway. (Time. 
 51 hre.— Fare, $42.) 
 
 Stations. — Chicago — Harlem, 9 miles 
 from Chicago ; Cottage Hill, 16 ; Wheaton, 
 25 ; Junction, 30 ; Geneva, 36 ; Black- 
 berry, 44 ; Lodi, 51 ; Cortland, 55 ; De- 
 Kalb, 58 ; Malta, 64 ; Creston, 70 ; Ro- 
 chelle, 75 ; Ashton, 84 ; Franklin, 88 ; 
 Dixon (connects with Main Line of Illi- 
 nois Central Railway), 98 ; Sterling (con- 
 nects with Rockford, Rock Island & St. 
 Louis Railway), 110; Morrison, 124; 
 Fulton, 136; Clinton, 138; Camanche, 
 143 ; Low Moor, 148 ; Malone, 152 ; De 
 Witt, 157; Calamus, 169; Wheatland, 
 173; Loudon, 178; Clarence, 185 ; Stan- 
 wood, 190; Lisbon, 202; Bertram, 210; 
 Cedar Rapids (connects with Dubuque 
 Southwestern, and Burlington, Cedar Rap- 
 ids & Minnesota Railways), 219 ; Fairfax, 
 228 ; Blairstown, 244 ; Belle Plains, 254 ; 
 Tama, 270 ; Legrand, 280 ; Marshall 
 (connects with Central Railway of Iowa), 
 289 ; State Centre, 303 ; Nevada, 318 ; 
 Boone, 340 ; Beaver, 357 ; Grand Junc- 
 tion (connects with Des Moines Valley 
 Railway), 364 ; New Jefferson, 370 ; Glid- 
 den, 388 ; Carroll, 396 ; West Side, 409 ; 
 Dcnison, 424 ; Dunlap, 441 ; Missouri Val- 
 ley Junction (connects with Sioux City 
 & Pacific Railway), 467 ; Crescent, 482 ; 
 Council Bluffs, 488 ; Missouri Railway 
 (crosses on bridge to Omaha, there con- 
 necting with Union Pacific Railway), 491. 
 
 From New York to Chicago take either 
 of the three Routes first named iu this 
 book. 
 
 Chicago, 111. (See page 6.) 
 
 From Chicago to Omaha this line of 
 road passes through a country which, with 
 the exception of a few inhabited points 
 along the navigable rivers, twenty years 
 ago, was one vast prairie traversed only 
 12 
 
 by the Indian, the trapper, and the wild 
 game which then abounded, but which 
 is now fast disappearing before the on- 
 ward march of civilization. Many of the 
 villages and cities along the road are 
 thriving and attractive, but are as yet 
 too young to possess the public con- 
 veniences and advantages one looks for 
 in places of more gradual development. 
 There are some, however, whose rapid 
 growth has already placed them on an 
 equality with their older sisters of the 
 Eastern States. With the rapid increase 
 of the lines of railway, and the conse- 
 quent settlement of the rich land thrown 
 open to market, the landscape loses much 
 of its distinctive character; and, though 
 the peculiar nature of the country now 
 level as a lloor, and now rolling like the 
 waves of the ocean, still remains, it is no 
 longer a treeless, boundless expanse of 
 waving grass and variegated flowers. 
 Orchards have been planted, groves of 
 forest-trees are springing from the prairie, 
 and the view in many places reminds one 
 of the garden regions of the Eastern 
 States. 
 
 •Uaaaaotioia, 111. (30 miles), is the 
 point of divergence of the Galena Divis- 
 ion of this road. 
 
 tteneva, 111. (36 miles), is a pros- 
 perous place, situated on the Fox River, 
 which furnishes a fine water-power. It 
 is the capital of Kane County, and has 
 many business advantages. 
 
 IMxoia, III. (98 miles), the capital 
 of Lee County, is at the junction of the 
 main line of the Illinois Central Railway. 
 It is situated on Rock River, which, being 
 dammed at this point, furnishes a fine 
 water-power for the mills, that are one 
 of the sources of the prosperity of the 
 place. A United States land-office is 
 located at Dixon. From Dixon to Ster- 
 ling the road runs parallel to and north 
 of Rock River, which a short distance 
 beyond the latter point diverges to the 
 south. 
 
 Sterling, III. (110 miles), is beau- 
 tifully situated on the north bank of Rock 
 River, which here, naturally affording a 
 
 fine water-power, has been improved by 
 a stone dam supplying several mills, 
 founderies, and machine-shops: This is an 
 important point for the shipment of grain 
 
 and produce, and is the junction of the 
 
Fulton.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA, ROUTE XII. 
 
 [Boone. 
 
 Rockford, Rock Island & St. Louis Rail- 
 way. 
 
 ifsilteaa, 111. (136 miles), the last 
 Btation hi the State, stands upon the 
 eastern bank of the Mississippi River, 
 which is here crossed by a splendid 
 bridge. It is built of iron, is 4,100 feet 
 long, and cost $600,000. The draw is 
 300 feet long. It revolves on its own 
 centre, uncovering two spans of 120 feet 
 each, through which passes the main 
 channel of the river. It is worked by a 
 steam-engine of 25 horse-power, perched 
 on a framework elevated over the track 
 sufficiently high to permit the cars to 
 pass beneath it. The Illinois end of the 
 bridge passes over a flat, or bottom, 
 then crosses a shallow channel to an 
 island, which, being thickly covered 
 with trees, and at the time of high water 
 usually submerged, presents a picturesque 
 appearance, as the woods, without any 
 apparent support, seem to float in an 
 erect position on the surface of the 
 stream. After crossing the island the 
 main channel of the river is reached, 
 spanned by the large draw just described. 
 From this draw, looking up the river, 
 there is a fine view taking in three towns. 
 On the Illinois bank, some two miles 
 above the bridge, stands Fulton, its huge 
 elevator being one of the most prominent 
 objects seen. Directly opposite, on the 
 Iowa side, is Lyons, and at the western 
 end of the bridge stands Clinton. 
 
 Clinton, I©. (138 miles), is 
 pleasantly situated on the west bank of 
 the Mississippi. It contains the loco- 
 motive repair-shops of this division of 
 the road, and is one of the stations for 
 the change of engines on through-trains. 
 It is the site of a large number of saw- 
 mills, and is one of the leading lumbering- 
 places on the river. One of the saw-mills 
 here has facilities for sawing 200,000 feet 
 of lumber a day. It is well worth visit- 
 ing. 
 
 €amanclie, I©. (143 miles), is 
 a small village which was the scene of 
 one of those terrible tornadoes which 
 sometimes sweep away an entire town on 
 these Western prairies. The storm to 
 which reference is here made was one of 
 exceptional violence, and played more 
 curious and apparently incredible freaks 
 than are usual even among these eccentric 
 4 
 
 breezes — among the most wonderful of 
 which is, that a horse was taken up, car- 
 ried across the Mississippi, and landed 
 unhurt, nearly three miles from home ! 
 This i3 vouched for as being absolutely 
 true by residents of the place, but seems 
 rather exaggerated. 
 
 From Clinton to Cedar Rapids the road 
 passes through a rolling prairie, dotted 
 with a succession of young and thriving 
 towns, and is relieved from monotony by 
 numerous groups of trees, the whole ap- 
 pearing like an immense farm in some 
 old- country where a small quantity of 
 timber has been judiciously allowed to 
 remain; indeed, it seems sometimes im- 
 possible to realize that never in the mem- 
 ory of man, or even in the traditions of 
 the Indians, have trees been known upon 
 these grassy knolls. 
 
 Cedar ISispisIs, I©. (219 miles), 
 on the Red Cedar River, is already a 
 place of importance, and is destined to 
 become a flourishing city. The Dubuque, 
 Southwestern, and the Burlington, Cedar 
 Rapids & Minnesota Railways connect 
 here, making it a railway centre. Other 
 roads to this point are now constructing. 
 
 NEarslaall, I©. (289 miles). Con- 
 nections are made with the Central Rail- 
 way of Iowa. 
 
 !S©©ne, Ho. (340 miles), was 
 founded in 1865, and even now (1871) is 
 an important and rapidly-growing place. 
 Its inhabitants have two characteristics 
 necessary to the building up of a large 
 town — a commendable degree of enter- 
 prise, and an idea that the State of Iowa 
 contains no other town besides that of 
 Boone. The country round about it is 
 fertile and productive. 
 
 The whole country is here underlaid by 
 coal, and at this point much of the coal 
 used upon the Iowa Division of the Chi- 
 cago & Northwestern Railway is pro- 
 cured. 
 
 Steadily journeying westward from 
 Boone, the tourist passes through the 
 valley of the Des Moines. The country 
 is well wooded and rugged, being more 
 like that of the Eastern States than any 
 of the route between Chicago and the 
 Missouri River. 
 
 The approaches on either side of the 
 river are of the wildest character, and 
 demand the heaviest grading from the 
 13 
 
Tip-Tor.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Council Bluffs 
 
 railroad which crosses it. In some sec- 
 tions the grade of the track is not less 
 than 80 feet to the mile, while the lowest 
 degree of inclination marks an ascent of 
 53 feet in the same distance. It is not 
 unlike, in many respects, the wild, grand 
 scenery which has made famous the Del- 
 aware Division of the Erie road, save that, 
 in place of the broad river at the foot of 
 the hills, there are swift-running moun- 
 tain streams in the wet season, and dry 
 gulches in a time of drought. In this sec- 
 tion coal of excellent quality abounds, 
 and upon either side of the road are to 
 be seen the works over the shafts and the 
 begrimed faces of the miners who delve 
 day after day beneath the surface. The 
 Des Moines River is spanned by a fine 
 bridge which bears the train in safety 
 over the stream at a dizzy height above 
 the water below. 
 
 For many miles after leaving the valley 
 the road passes over a superb prairie, 
 which, except for the villages which 
 have sprung up around the few stations 
 since 1866, remains in its primitive con- 
 dition. 
 
 Tip-Top, lo. (405 miles), is the 
 highest point in the State, being 870 
 feet above the level of Lake Michigan. 
 In spring and summer the surrounding 
 prairie is rich in long grass, and beauti- 
 ful flowers ; but in the winter snow-drifts 
 20 feet in depth are not uncommon. At 
 this point two streams take their rise 
 from springs. The one, Storm Creek, 
 flows to the east, its waters eventually 
 finding their way to the Mississippi. The 
 other, the Boyer, runs to the west, and 
 empties into the Missouri, not far from 
 Council Bluffs. 
 
 E>cnison, lo. (424 miles), is a 
 promising young town. 
 
 At this point we enter upon the Boyer 
 Valley, which varies from two to four 
 miles in width, and is a flat bottom 
 between two rows of hills. The scenery 
 of this valley, in contrast to that of the 
 prairie, is very pleasing. 
 
 l>unlap, lo. (441 miles), is a 
 growing town. The company has an 
 engine-house here, and there is a fair 
 hotel. 
 
 Missouri Vsill<»y Junction 
 f 1 < '■ 7 miles) is the junction ^ the Sioux 
 Uity & Pacific Railway. 
 74 
 
 The descent into the Missouri Valley 
 commences here, and we have a full view 
 of the "bluffs" for the first time. The 
 road, taking a southwesterly course, al- 
 most skirts those on the Iowa side, while 
 those of Nebraska loom up on the oppo- 
 site side of the broad river-bottom. 
 
 Council ISluiTs, lo. (48S 
 miles), is the capital of Pottawattomie 
 County, Iowa, and is situated in the Mis- 
 souri Bottom, at the foot of the bluffs, 
 which here are high and very precipi- 
 tous. The river seems to vibrate between 
 the bluffs, eating the earth away from 
 the one side and depositing it on the 
 other, so that this city, which was, when 
 first settled, upon the river's edge, is 
 now some three miles away from it. This 
 gives it plenty of room to extend its 
 limits, and it is probable that, however it 
 may increase in population, there will al- 
 ways be room for manufactories, jobbing- 
 houses and similar establishments, while 
 upon the bluffs, at no distant day, will 
 be clustered the residences, elegant 
 churches, pleasure-grounds, and other ac- 
 cessories, of the home portion of a large 
 city. The views from . these bluffs are 
 very beautiful. In 1 804 Clark and Lewi,? 
 held a council here with the Indians, and 
 gave it its name. The streets cross 
 each other at right angles, one set run- 
 ning from the river to the bluffs, which 
 stay their farther progress in that direc- 
 tion. There is an expensive Court-House 
 at this place, and the State Institu'c 
 for the Deaf and Dumb, now building, 
 will be an ornament to the city. The 
 great bridge across the Missouri at this 
 point being finished, Council Bluffs and 
 Omaha are practically one city, though 
 at present there is fierce rivalry between 
 the two. 
 
 The following railways now centre at 
 Council Bluffs, connecting by bridge with 
 the Pacific Railway at Omaha : Chicago 
 <£• Northwestern ; Chicago, lioek Island 
 & Pacific ; Burlington & Missouri liivi r : 
 and Kansas City, St. Joseph cD Council 
 Bluffs. 
 
Chicago.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA, ROUTE XIII. 
 
 [Ottawa. 
 
 M O UTE XIII. 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAIIA. 
 
 Via cnn/ Route to Chicago, thence by Chicago, 
 Rock Island d~ Pacifc Railway. {Time, 69 
 hrs.—Kare, $i2.) 
 
 Stations. — Chicago — Englewood, 7 
 miles from Chicago ; Blue Island, 16 ; 
 Bremen, 24 ; Mokena, 30 ; Joliet (con- 
 nects with Chicago & Alton Railway, and 
 Joliet Branch of Michigan Central Rail- 
 way), 40; Minooka, 51; Morris, 61; 
 Seneca, 71 ; Marseilles, 76 ; Ottawa, 84 ; 
 Utica, 94 ; La Salle (connects with Illinois 
 Central Railway, and steamer to St. 
 Louis), 99 ; Peru, 100 ; Bureau (con- 
 nects with Branch to Peoria), 114; 
 Tiskilwa, 122; Pond Creek (connects 
 with Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Rail- 
 way), 128 : Sheffield, 136 ; Atkinson, 152 ; 
 Geneseo, 159; Colona, 170; Moline, 179; 
 Rock Island (connects with Western 
 Union Railway, and bridge over the Mis- 
 sissippi River, connecting Illinois with 
 Iowa Division ; also with steamers on the 
 Mississippi River), 182 ; Davenport, 183 ; 
 Walcott, 195; Fulton, 199; Wilton (con- 
 nects with Branch for Muscatine, Wash- 
 ington, etc.), 208 ; Moscow, 211 ; Atalissa, 
 216 ; West Liberty, 221 ; Iowa City, 
 237; Oxford, 252; Homestead, 257; 
 Marengo (connects with stage for Blairs- 
 town), 267 ; Victor, 279 ; Brooklyn, 287 ; 
 Malcolm, 293 ; Grinnell, 302 ; Kellogg, 
 313 ; Newton, 322 ; Colfax, 334; Mitckell- 
 ville, 340 ; Des Moines (connects with 
 Des Moines Valley Railway), 357 ; Boone, 
 372 ; De Soto (connects with stage lines), 
 379 ; Dexter (connects with stage lines), 
 392 ; Casey, 408 ; Anita, 422 ; Atlantic, 
 436 ; Avoca, 455 ; Shelby, 463 ; Neola, 
 474 ; Council Bluffs (connects with Union 
 Pacific Railway, and with steamers on 
 the Missouri River), 490 ; Missouri River, 
 493. 
 
 Chicago, 111. (See page 6.) 
 From Chicago to Joliet, the road passes 
 over a portion of the rich prairie-lands 
 of Illinois. The villages along the line 
 are prosperous little places, deriving 
 their support from the neighboring farms, 
 but possess no general interest. The 
 scenery is monotonous, and since the set- 
 tlement of the country has lost the dis- 
 tinctive prairie character which is now 
 only seen to perfection in the western 
 
 part of Iowa, and on the plains west of 
 the Missouri. 
 
 .Joliet, III. (40 miles), is the 
 county-seat of Will County, and is one of 
 the principal places in the State. The 
 population in 1870 was 7,266. The city 
 is situated on the Des Moines River, 
 which affords a good water-power, and 
 is connected with Chicago by canal as 
 well as by railway. It is handsomely 
 built, many of the buildings being of a 
 good quality of gray limestone. The 
 State penitentiary here is one of the finest 
 in the United States. Here, also, is 
 one of the most extensive stone quarries 
 of the Northwest, of gray limestone in 
 layers varying from two inches to two or 
 three feet in thickness, and of which 
 some of the finest commercial and public 
 buildings of Chicago were built, includ- 
 ing that vast structure the Chicago, Rock 
 Island & Pacific, and Michigan Southern 
 Railway Depot, at Chicago; the super- 
 structure of the Illinois State Capitol 
 (now building), the extensive U. S. 
 Armory and Arsenal buildings on Rock 
 Island, and many other imposing edifices 
 through the Northwest. Thousands of 
 men are employed in these quarries every 
 summer. 
 
 Joliet is a very prosperous place, and 
 is the commercial centre of the surround- 
 ing country. It also has some importance 
 as a milling and manufacturing place. 
 The Chicago & Alton Railway and the 
 Joliet Branch of the Michigan Central 
 Railway connect here. 
 
 Morris, 111. (61 miles), is a thriving 
 post-village, on the Illinois & Michigan 
 Canal. It is the capital and principal 
 shipping-point of Grundy County. Mor- 
 ris has a bank, several churches, and a 
 newspaper office. Population in 1865, 
 about 4,000; in 1870, about 6,000. 
 
 Ottawa, 111. (84 miles), the capi- 
 tal of La Salle County, is a flourishing city, 
 situated on both sides of the Illinois River, 
 just below the mouth of Fox River~ The 
 Illinois & Michigan Canal connects it 
 with Chicago. Ottawa contains several 
 churches, banks, and a number of large 
 public school-houses. The city is lighted 
 with gas. There are eight large steam 
 elevators here. The Fox River, at this 
 place, has a fall of about 29 feet, produ- 
 cing an extensive water-power. Among the 
 75 
 
Bureau.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Rock Island. 
 
 manufactories arc one large corn-starch 
 mill, four manufactories of reapers, and 
 four flouring-mills. Rich beds of coal 
 are found in the vicinity. The Supreme 
 Court for the north division of the State 
 is held here. Population in 1S65, about 
 6,547 ; in 1870, 7,752. 
 
 ILa Salle (99 miles) is a very flour- 
 ishing manufacturing town on the Illinois 
 River, at the terminus of the Illinois Ca- 
 nal; 100 miles long, which connects it with 
 Chicago. It is the centre of extensive coal- 
 mines in the vicinity. It connects with 
 the Illinois Central Railway and steamer 
 to St. Louis. Population about 7,000. 
 
 Surean, 111. (114 miles), is a 
 post-village at the junction of the Peoria 
 Branch Railway. 
 
 I^omd Creel*;, Ml. (128 miles), is 
 the intersection of the Chicago, Burling- 
 ton <£ Quincji Railway. 
 
 ftJeaaeseo, MI. (159 miles), the larg- 
 est place in Henry County, is situated in 
 the heart of one of the most thrifty and 
 best agricultural districts in the State. 
 It has a population of about 3,000. 
 
 Moline, 111. (179 miles), is on the 
 east bank of the Mississippi River, three 
 miles above Rock Island, with which it is 
 connected by a horse-railway. Here is the 
 most extensive water-power in the North- 
 west. Moline was first settled in 1882, 
 by Joel Wells. It is situated at the head 
 of the island of Rock Island, and divided 
 therefrom by what is known as the 
 " Slough," a swift-running stream that 
 cuts oil* Rock Island from the main-land 
 of the Illinois shore. The fall is about 
 eight feet. Its improvement was com- 
 menced in 1841, and carried on by 
 different interests until 1863, when it 
 was bought by the U. S. Government, 
 and permanent improvement commenced. 
 It is expected that it will be finished 
 this year, when it will equal about 
 7,500 horse-power. The pools within its 
 walls, dikes, and shore-lines, have a ca- 
 pacity of 100,000,000 cubic feet of water, 
 which is nearly cq.ual to the combined 
 water-power of all New England. Its 
 manufactories arc quite extensive, among 
 them being two of the largest steel 
 plough and cultivator factories in the 
 I uit( 'I Slates. There arc also an exten- 
 sive paper-mill, woollen-factory, tub and 
 bucket factory, wagon-factories, found* 
 76 
 
 cries, machine-shops, flour-mills, etc. 
 Moline is surrounded by the most delight- 
 ful scenerv on all sides. Population in 
 1870, 5,70'::. 
 
 ESoeSi Island City, 111. (182 
 miles), the capital of Rock Island County, 
 is on the Mississippi River, 2 miles above 
 the mouth of Rock River. It is situated at 
 the foot of the Upper Rapids, which ex- 
 tend nearly 15 miles, and in low stages of 
 water obstruct the passage of loaded ves- 
 sels. The place derives its name from an 
 island 3 miles in length, the south extrem- 
 ity of which is nearly opposite the town. 
 The main and navigable channel is on 
 the west side of the island, while that 
 on the east has been dammed at Moline, 
 so as to produce the immense water-power 
 already alluded to, and a good harbor be- 
 low. It has 10 churches, and a large 
 union school-l rnise ; but it is remarkable 
 for its flourishing manufactures, among 
 which are a paper-mill and a plough-fac- 
 tory. Stoves, carpets, and glass, are also 
 manufactured here, and there is a large 
 distillery. The population in 1870 was 
 7,899. 
 
 TTlae Island of 5So«-!k Island, 
 lying between Rock Island and Moline on 
 the east, and Davenport on the west, is 
 the largest of the Mississippi River islands. 
 It is 3 miles long, and contains 960 acres 
 of excellent soil on a solid foundation 
 of limestone above the encroachment of 
 the highest water, and is about equally 
 divided into timber and cleared land. It 
 was settled in 1816 by 800 U. S. troops 
 under Colonel William Lawrence, who 
 there established Fort Armstrong. At 
 the lower point, where now stands the 
 new U. S. Arsenal, were the headquarters 
 of Generals Scott, Taylor, and Gaines, dur- 
 ing the Black Hawk War. For many 
 years it was under the control of Colonel 
 Davenport, who brought the first white 
 women to this country in 1816. Fort 
 Armstrong was evacuated in 1836, peace 
 having been insured. 
 
 The island is the property of the United 
 States, and was the great Confederate 
 prison during the late civil war ; as many 
 as 12,000 prisoners being confined there 
 at a time. 
 
 In 1863 Brigadier-General Hodman (of 
 Rodman-gun tame) took charge, and 
 commenced the extensive Government 
 
Davenport.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA, ROUTE XIII. 
 
 [Davenport. 
 
 improvements, and the building of the 
 great central armories of the United 
 States. These buildings, ten in number, 
 have been commenced ; two of them are 
 nearly completed. They are in the central 
 part of the island and built in the shape 
 of a c, each 220 feet front, by 300 feet 
 deep, three stories high, of Jolict stone 
 and wrought-iron. There are 7,000 cubic 
 yards of stone masonry, 1,000,000 brick 
 for ceiling arches, 7,500 tons of wrought- 
 iron, 51,500 squares of slate, and 105,600 
 feet of oak flooring to each building, the 
 cost of each being about $600,000. 
 
 Ilere are magnificent headquarters, 
 costing $100,000, twenty miles of splendid 
 roadways, running in every direction ; 
 diives, walks, promenades, and paths ; in- 
 deed the most delightful scenery, rushing 
 waters, delightful shade, and magnificent 
 prospects from every point of view. It is 
 the great Central Park of the North- 
 west. It is approached at the upper end 
 by an elegant wrought-iron carriage- 
 bridge, leading over from Moline, and 
 from Rock Island by a similar structure, 
 both built by the Government. From the 
 Davenport side a massive iron railway, 
 carriage, and foot bridge is being thrown 
 across the main channel, a short distance 
 below the present wooden bridge, connect- 
 ing with the extreme lower end of the 
 island, which is very abrupt, rising in a 
 lime-stone ledge, from 15 to 21 feet above 
 water. 
 
 In the face of this ledge is Black 
 Hawk's Cave, a high aperture extending 
 some distance back under the island. 
 Old Fort Armstrong, built in 1816, on 
 this rocky point, has entirely passed 
 away, and in its place rises a magnificent 
 cut-stone armory, 180 by 160 feet, with 
 a massive tower, having an area of 33 
 by 33 feet, and rising 135 feet, sur- 
 mounted by a bell and a clock, the huge 
 face, hands, and figures of. which are dis- 
 tinctly visible in both Davenport and 
 Rock Island. 
 
 Davenport, I©. (183 miles), a 
 flourishing city, the capital of Scott 
 County, is the metropolis of the State. 
 Its population in 1860 was 11,267; and 
 in 1870, 23,560. The city is finely lo- 
 cated on the Mississippi River, at the foot 
 of the Upper Rapids, 330 miles above St. 
 Louis. It is built at the foot, along the 
 
 slope, and upon the top of a gently-rising 
 bluff, extending along the river a distance 
 of 3i miles. It was formerly connected 
 with "the island and city of Rock Island 
 by a substantial railroad bridge, now re- 
 placed by the new Government railroad, 
 carriage, and foot bridge, of wrought-iron 
 on massive Joliet-stone piers, very hand- 
 somely built. This bridge was completed 
 in 1871, at a cost of $1,000,000, equally 
 divided between the U. S. Government 
 and the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 The city has 5 miles of street-railway ; 
 an immense water-power, that steps are 
 being taken to improve; and is the great 
 grain depot of the Upper Mississippi. 
 Here are numerous extensive jobbing- 
 houses, manufactories of machinery, 
 woollens, lumber, and agricultural machin- 
 ery, furniture, etc. 
 
 About the city and its suburbs the 
 tourist will find pleasant drives, and from 
 lookout points along the bluffs are some 
 of the most magnificent views of river, 
 bluff-land and prairie scenery, embracing 
 in one grand sweep the island, the city 
 of Rock Island, the villages of Moline, 
 Milan, and the encircling amphitheatre of 
 bluffs — the magnificent river stretching 
 out miles and miles away on either 
 hand. 
 
 Davenport has 25 church edifices, and 
 large and substantial school buildings. 
 There are here also Griswokl College, 
 College of the Sisters of the Immaculate 
 Conception, and Mercy Hospital, and here 
 is the finest opera-house in the West, 
 outside of Chicago. 
 
 Davenport was settled in 1835 by 
 Antoine Le Claire, a half-breed interpreter 
 of the Sac and Fox Indians, whose chief 
 village was here. It is now one of the 
 most prosperous of the Western cities, 
 situated in the heart of extensive bitu- 
 minous coal-fields, at the junction of rail- 
 roads extending in every direction — the 
 Chicago, Rock Island <fr Pacific, Daven- 
 port & St. Paul, Chicago & Southwestern 
 lines on the west ; and the Chicago, Rock 
 Island & Pacific, Rockford, Rock Island 
 & St. Louis, Western Union, Peoria & 
 Rock Island on the east. 
 
 Its hotel accommodations are exten- 
 sive, the Burtis taking the lead. Round 
 about are the villages of Lc Claire, Buffalo, 
 77 
 
RTlLTON.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Des Moines. 
 
 Gilbert Town and Valley City — connected 
 by picturesque drives. 
 
 Wilton, lo. (208 miles), is a pret- 
 ty post-village of Muscatine County. A 
 branch to Muscatine, a city of 6,750 in- 
 habitants, 12 miles distant, on the Mis- 
 sissippi, thence to the southern boundary 
 of the State, and soon to be extended to 
 Leavenworth, Kansas, leaves the main 
 line here. 
 
 West Hjitocrty, I©. (221 miles), 
 is a neat, thrifty post-village in Muscatine 
 County. Here is the crossing of the Bur- 
 lington, Cedar Rapids <£• Minnesota Rail- 
 way, completed to the Northern part of 
 the State. 
 
 Sowa City, I®. (237 miles), is 
 quite a flourishing town, and is beauti- 
 fully situated on the bluffs of the Iowa 
 River. It was formerly the capital of 
 the State, being selected as such in May, 
 1839, when it was entirely in a state of 
 nature. Within a year from that time it 
 contained from 500 to 700 inhabitants. 
 The late census gives it a population of 
 7,500. The town is embowered among 
 groves of trees, and surrounded by fer- 
 tile farms. The streets, for the most 
 part, are long and wide. At the intersec- 
 tion of Capital Street and Iowa Avenue, 
 on a commanding eminence, stands the 
 former capitol, a line edifice of the Doric 
 order, 120 feet long and CO feet wide. 
 This building has been transferred to the 
 State University, which has about 500 
 pupils. The river is navigable by steam- 
 boats from its mouth to this place in high 
 water, and affords excellent water-power. 
 Iowa City has 12 churches, a paper-mill, 
 machine-shops, a linseed-oil mill, flour- 
 mills, etc. Population in 1870, 7,500. 
 
 CwE-iniiell, I©. (302 miles), is a 
 thriving post-village, and the seat of Iowa 
 College. The North Iowa Central Rail- 
 road crosses the Chicago, Rock Island & 
 Pacific at this point. 
 
 Wewton, lo. (322 miles), is the 
 capital of Jasper County. It has several 
 fine buildings. Coal is found in large 
 quantities in its vicinity. 
 
 S>cs I9Ioincs, lo. (357 miles), the 
 capita] of Iowa, is situated at the junction 
 of the I)es Moines and Raccoon Rivers. It 
 contains 15 churches, a paper-mill, ma- 
 chine-shops, and foundcries, an academy, 
 five high-schools, a U. S. Court, a hand- 
 78 
 
 some post-office building, and many very 
 tine private residences. 
 
 The foundation of a new $3,000,000 
 State-House is being laid. 
 
 Extensive coal-mines are worked here, 
 and wood is abundant. From its i 
 lent location this is destined to be a large 
 and thrifty city. Population in 1870, 
 12,380. The Des Moines Valley Railway 
 connects here with Keokuk at the south- 
 east corner of the State, and Fort Dodge, 
 some fifty miles northward. 
 
 From Des Moines the road passes 
 through a fine prairie country, dotted 
 with pretty villages, until we reach the 
 bluffs, and descend into the Missouri 
 Bottom. 
 
 C©nn«"il MlnlFs, 5©. (490 miles), 
 has been described in Route XII. (See 
 page 71.) 
 
 MO TJ TE XI V. 
 
 CHICAGO TO OMAHA. 
 
 Yin Chicago. Burlington & Quitter/, and Ttur- 
 Ungton & Missouri River Railways. (Time, 
 25 his.— Tare, $19 75. 
 
 Stations. — Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Raihcay. — Chicago — River Side, 
 12 miles from Chicago; Hinsdale, 18; 
 Downer's Grove, 23; Napicrville, 29; 
 Aurora, 38 ; Bristol, 46 ; Piano, 53 ; 
 Somanauk, 60 ; Leland, 66 ; Earl, 73 ; 
 Mcndota (connects with Illinois Central 
 Railway), 84 ; Arlington, 92 ; Maiden, 
 99 ; Princeton, 105 ; Chicago, Rock Isl- 
 and & Pacific Junction (connects with 
 Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway), 
 113 ; Buda (connects with Buda & Rush- 
 ville Branch), 117; Neponsct, 124; Ke- 
 wanee, 132 ; Galva (connects with Galva 
 & New Boston Branch), 140; Altona, 
 147; Oneida, 151; Wataga, 156; Gales- 
 burg (diverges from main line), 163 ; 
 Cameron, 172; Monmouth, 179; Young 
 America, 185 ; Sagetown, 197 ; Burling- 
 ton (connects with Burlington & Missouri 
 Valley Railway, and with Branches to 
 Keokuk and Carthage), 207. 
 
 Stations. — Burlington & Missouri 
 River Railway. — Burlington, 207 miles 
 from Chicago; Mount Pleasant, 235; 
 Glendale, 249; Fairfield, 257 ; Whitfield, 
 262; Ottumwa (connects with Des Moines 
 Valley & North Missouri Railway), 285 ; 
 
Napieryille.] 
 
 CHICAGO TO OMAHA, ROUTE XIV. 
 
 [Burlington. 
 
 Albia, 307; Melrose, 321 ; Chariton, 337; 
 Osceola, 363 ; Afton, 387 ; Creston, 397 ; 
 Corning, 418; Red Oak (connects with 
 Red Oak Branch for East Nebraska City), 
 448 ; Glenwood, 478 ; Pacific Junction 
 (connects with Platsmouth & Lincoln 
 Branch), 482 ; Council Bluffs, 493 ; Mis- 
 souri River, 503 ; Omaha ('connects with 
 Union Pacific Railway), 504. 
 
 The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
 Railway passes through some of the best 
 farming-land in the State of Illinois, 
 crossing it diagonally from Chicago on 
 Lake Michigan to East Burlington, Illi- 
 nois, where connection is made by ferry 
 with the railways divergent from Burling- 
 ton. Of the cities and villages along the 
 line the general remark can be made 
 that they are prosperous, well provided 
 with churches and schools, and are neatly 
 and tastefully built. It is not necessary 
 to mention them all, and only a few, which 
 for exceptional reasons require especial 
 notice, will be described. 
 
 Caicag;©, Ell., has been described 
 in Route I. (See p. 6.) 
 
 Naplerville, 111. (29 miles), the 
 capital of Du Page County, is upon the 
 Da Page River, which furnishes a good 
 water-power. 
 
 Aurora, Ell. (38 miles), is a city 
 of over 10,000 inhabitants, situated upon 
 Fox River, which furnishes the power for 
 numerous important manufactories. It 
 contains a handsome City-Hall, and many 
 fine stores and dwellings. The construc- 
 tion and repair-shops of the railway, 
 situated here, give employment to about 
 700 men. 
 
 Menalota, Ell. (84 miles), is a 
 place of rapid growth, the first house 
 having been built in 1853, the popu- 
 lation now being about 6,000. It is sur- 
 rounded by a rich farming region, and, 
 coal being abundant and cheap, manufac- 
 tures are numerous and varied. This is 
 the seat of Mendola College, and of a 
 Wesley an Seminary. Some of the churches 
 are handsome edifices. The Illinois Cen- 
 tral Railway connects here. 
 
 B B rimceton, Ell. (105 miles), is 
 upon a beautiful prairie, and is the capital 
 of Bureau County. Eight miles beyond 
 is the crossing of the Chicago, Rock 
 Island cfr Pacific Railway. 
 
 Hilda, Ell. (117 miles), is the point 
 
 where the Buda & Rushvillc Branch di- 
 verges. This branch is 110 miles long, 
 and is only of local importance. The fol- 
 lowing are the names of the stations : 
 Bradford, Wyoming, Brimfield, Elmwood, 
 Yates City, Norris, Bryant, Lewiston, 
 Vermont, Rushville. 
 
 <Ualva, fill. (140 miles), is where the 
 Galva & New Boston Branch diverges. 
 This branch is 51 miles in length, and New 
 Boston, the terminus, is a place of much 
 business activity, situated upon the Mis- 
 sissippi River. The following are the 
 names of the stations : Woodhull, New 
 Windsor, Viola, Aledo, Joy, New Boston. 
 
 4JJalesl>llrg■, Ell. (163 miles), is a 
 flourishing city, with a rapidly-growing 
 trade. It is noted for its educational 
 advantages, being the seat of Knox Col- 
 lege and of Lombard College, and has a 
 female seminary and several public 
 schools. It is surrounded by a rich 
 farming country. The road branches 
 here, the main line or Quincy Division 
 continuing toward the southwest, while 
 westward-bound passengers turn toward 
 Burlington. The Galesburg & Peoria 
 Branch, 53 miles long, diverges here. 
 The following are the names of the sta- 
 tions : Gilson, Maquon, Summit, Yates 
 City, Elmwood, Oak Hill, Edwards, Kick- 
 apoo, Peoria. 
 
 MommoHtla, 111. (179 miles), the 
 capital of Warren County, is a prosper- 
 ous place, and is situated on a rich and 
 beautiful prairie. It contains a college. 
 
 East ISujrliaigton, fill. (206 
 miles), the last station in Illinois, is upon 
 the Mississippi River, opposite Burling- 
 ton, Iowa, which is reached by ferry. 
 
 EBuirliiigftosa, Ho. (207 miles), the 
 capital of Des Moines County, excepting 
 Davenport and Dubuque, is the largest 
 city in the State, and a place of great 
 commercial importance. The business 
 portion of the city is built upon the low 
 ground along the river, while the resi- 
 dences upon the high bluffs command 
 extended views of the fine river scenery. 
 The river at this point is a broad, deep, 
 and beautiful stream of clear water, and 
 upon the bluffs between which it passes 
 are large orchards and vineyards. 
 
 The city is regularly laid out and well 
 built, the houses being chiefly of brick. 
 It contains Burlington University (a 
 79 
 
Mount Pleasant.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations 
 
 Baptist institution), a public library, and 
 many handsome churches. It is connect- 
 ed with all the river-ports by regular 
 lines of steamers. The business of the 
 city is large. The following railway line3 
 centre here : Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy, which has just been described ; 
 ( 'arthage Branch of Chicago, Burlington 
 & Quinty, which runs south on the Illi- 
 nois side of the river for 57 miles, and 
 has the following stations : Lomax, 
 Colusa, Ferris, Carthage, Basco, West 
 Point, Stillwell, Mendon ; Burlington & 
 Keokuk Branch of Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy, running south 43 miles on the 
 Iowa side, and having the following sta- 
 tions : Wever, Port Madison, Painter 
 Creek, Nashville, Sandusky, Keokuk ; 
 and Burlington & Missouri Railway. 
 
 Taking the cars of the Burlington & 
 Missouri River Railway, the tourist may 
 prepare himself for a pleasant ride of 
 about 14 hours across the rolling prairie- 
 lands of the State, continually though 
 imperceptibly rising, until at Creston he 
 finds himself on the dividing ridge be- 
 tween the Mississippi aud the Missouri, 
 800 feet above their level. 
 
 Mount IPleasaimti, So. (235 
 miles), the capital of Henry Count}', stands 
 upon an elevated prairie, surrounded on 
 all sides but the east by Big Creek, which 
 is here bent like a horseshoe. It con- 
 tains Wlutlier College, the Wcslcyan Uni- 
 versity, and several good schools. About 
 a mile to the south of the railway, and 
 in full view from the cars, is the Iowa 
 Hospital for the Insane. The country in 
 the vicinity is highly productive, and the 
 soil easily cultivated. 
 
 B^airdaeld, So. (257 miles), the 
 capital of Jetferson County, is situated on 
 Big Cedar Creek, and is one of the most 
 important towns in the interior of the 
 State. There are in this place a United 
 States laud-office, a female seminary, and 
 a college established by the State. The 
 surrounding country is rolling prairie, 
 diversified with forests of hard wood, 
 and is well watered. 
 
 Ottmnwa, So. (285 miles), is the 
 capital of Wapello County, and is the 
 ' t town on this line between the 
 
 Mississippi and the Missouri. For several 
 years it was the terminus of the road. It 
 has a good water-power from the Des 
 80 
 
 Moines River, and is surrounded by coal 
 timber, aud building-stone. The Bet 
 Moines Valley Railway connects here. 
 
 AUbia, So. (307 miles), is the capital 
 of Monroe County. It is surrounded by 
 a rich farming district of alternating 
 prairies and woodlands. 
 
 CSaairitOM, So. ( 337 miles), is the 
 capital of Lucas County, and is situated 
 upon Chariton River. 
 
 Osceola, Bo. (363 miles), is the 
 capital of Clarke County. It is situated 
 on the dividing ridge between White 
 Breast and Squaw Creeks. The railway 
 now building from Des Moines to Kansa-3 
 City will connect here. 
 
 Cj'eslom, So. (397 miles), is upon 
 the dividing ridge between the Missis- 
 sippi and Missouri Rivers. The engine- 
 houses and car-repair shops of this divi- 
 sion of the road are located here. 
 
 Med ©ale, So. (448 miles), is the 
 capital of Montgomery County. The Rca 
 Oak Branch for East Nebraska City di- 
 verges here. 
 
 CJleirvrood, Bo. (478 miles), is the 
 capital of Mills County, and is four miles 
 east of Pacific Junction, where the Plats- 
 mouth <£•• Lincoln Branch, now completed 
 as far as Lincoln, Neb., diverges, crossing 
 the Missouri River by ferry at Plats- 
 mouih. 
 
 (L'omeicII BBlMffffe, Bo. (493 miles), 
 described in Route XII. {See page 74.) 
 
 ©saiaEaa, r$ell». (504 miles), de- 
 scribed in Route XVIII. (See page 95.) 
 
 ItO UTE XV. 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA VIA LOGANS- 
 FORT, PEORIA, AND KEOKUK. 
 
 Via Route. II. to Toledo; Route XII. to 
 Logansport; and Pittsburg, Cincinnati cf- 
 St. Lou in; Toledo, Peoria d- Warsaw; Des 
 Moines Valley and Iowa Division of Chi- 
 cago, Rack Inland <l- Pacific Railways. 
 (Time, 58 hrs.—Fare, $42.) 
 
 Stations. — Columbus, Chicago & Indi- 
 ana Central Division of Pittsburg Cin- 
 cinnatti & St. Louis Railway. — Logans- 
 port, 90G miles from New York ; Burnet- 
 ville, 918; Reynolds (connects wiili Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Railway)- 
 923; Remington, 937 ; State Line (con- 
 nects with Toledo, Peoria & Warsaw Rail- 
 way), 957. 
 
LodANSPORT.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAIIA, ROUTE XV. 
 
 [Bushnell. 
 
 Stations. — Toledo, Peoria & Warsaio 
 Railway. — State Line, 957 miles from 
 New York ; Watseka, 968 ; Oilman (con- 
 nects with Chicago Branch of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 982 ; Chatsworth. 997 ; 
 Chenoa (connects with Chicago & Alton 
 Railway), 1,020; El Paso (connects with 
 Illinois Central Railway), 1,035; Wash- 
 ington, 1,056 ; Peoria (connects with 
 Peoria, Pekin & Jacksonville Railway), 
 1,06S; Canton, 1,096; Bushnell (con- 
 nects with Chicago, Burlington & Quiucy 
 Railway), 1,128 ; LaHarpe, 1,152 ; Elvas- 
 ton, 1,173 ; Warsaw (connects by ferry 
 with Des Moines Valley Railway), 1,184. 
 
 Stations. — Des Moines Valley Railway. 
 — Keokuk, 1,185 miles from New York ; 
 Sand Prairie, 1,199 ; Belfast, 1,204 ; Far- 
 mington, 1,215; Bonaparte, 1,220; Bcn- 
 tonsport, 1,223 ; Kilboume, 1,232 ; Inde- 
 pendent, 1,243 ; Ashland (connects with 
 Branch of Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway), 1,248 ; Ottumwa (connects with 
 Burlington & Missouri River Railway), 
 1,260; Eddyville, 1,276 ; Oskaloosa, 1,284 ; 
 Pclla, 1,299 ; Otlev, 1,308 ; Monroe, 1,313 ; 
 Prairie City, 1,322 ; Woodville, 1,328 ; 
 Des Moines (connects with Chicago, Rock 
 Island & Pacific Railway), 1,346. 
 
 Stations. — Chicago, Rock Island & Pa- 
 cific Railway. — Des Moines, 1,346 miles 
 from New York; Boone, 1,361 ; De Soto, 
 1,368 ; Dexter, 1,381 ; Casev, 1,397 ; Adair, 
 1,404; Anita, 1,411; Atlantic, 1,425; 
 Avocn, 1,444; Shelby, 1,452; Neola, 
 1,463 ; Council Bluffs, 1,479 ; Missouri 
 River, 1,482 ; Omaha (connects with 
 Union Pacific Railway), 1,483. 
 
 From the number of different corpora- 
 tions named in this list a traveller would 
 almost be deterred from attempting the 
 trip ; but this would be a groundless an- 
 ticipation of trouble, for changes of cars 
 are by no means as frequent as it would 
 appear, arrangements existing by which 
 the cars of any one of these roads may 
 be run over the tracks of the others. 
 
 Sjogransporl, End. (906 miles). 
 (See page 83.) 
 
 ESeynolds, Hand. (923 miles), is 
 the junction of the Louisville, New Albany 
 & Chicago Railioay. 
 
 State BL-iaie,' End. (957 miles), is 
 the junction of the Toledo, Peoria tfr 
 Wabash Railway, the line of which we 
 now follow. 
 
 Gilman, 113. (982 miles), is the 
 junction of the Chicago Branch of the 
 Illinois Central Railway, and is a steadily- 
 growing place. 
 
 Clacnoa, Ell. (1,020 miles), is a 
 small town at the intersection of the Chi- 
 cago & Alton Railway. 
 
 El E^so, Ell. (1,035 miles), is a 
 place of considerable importance, being 
 the largest place between Peoria and the 
 State line. It has a population of over 
 3,000 inhabitants, and contains eight 
 churches, and schools, manufactories, 
 stores, etc., equal to those of any town of 
 its size in the State. The country in the 
 neighborhood is being rapidly settled, the 
 land being some of the richest in the 
 State. The main line of the Illinois Cen- 
 tral Railway connects here. 
 
 IPcorfa, Ell. (1,068 miles), is the 
 capital of the county of the same name, 
 and is one of the most important cities in 
 the State. It stands upon the west bank 
 of the Illinois River at the mouth of 
 Peoria Lake, and has water communica- 
 tion both with Chicago and St. Louis, by 
 means of river and canal. It is also an 
 important railway point, and is the centre 
 of an immense trade. The following de- 
 scription is not exaggerated : 
 
 " Peoria is the most beautiful place on 
 the river. Situated on rising ground, a 
 broad plateau extending back from the 
 bluff, it is free from inundation at times 
 of high water. The river here expands 
 into a broad, deep lake, which is a most 
 beautiful feature in the scenery of the 
 town, and as useful as beautiful, supply- 
 ing the inhabitants with ample stores of 
 fish, and in winter with abundance of the 
 purest ice. A substantial drawbridge 
 connects the town with the opposite bank. 
 The city is laid out in rectangular blocks, 
 the streets being wide and well graded. 
 The schools and churches are prosperous, 
 and the society good. A public square 
 has been reserved near the centre. Back 
 of the town extends one of the finest 
 rolling prairies in the State." 
 
 The Peoria, Pekin & Jacksonville Rail- 
 way connects here. 
 
 Canton, Ell. (1,096 miles), is a 
 pleasant village at the intersection of a 
 branch of the Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Railway. 
 
 ESushneli, Ell. (1,128 miles), is 
 81 
 
Warsaw.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 where the main line of the Chicago, Bur- 
 lington & Quincy Railway connects. 
 
 Warsaw, 113. (1,184 miles), is 
 the western terminus of the Toledo, 
 Peoria & Wabash Railway, and is a 
 thriving place. It is on the eastern bank 
 of the Mississippi, at the foot of the 
 lower rapids, is pleasantly situated upon 
 elevated ground, and has a large river- 
 trade. It is connected by ferry with 
 Keokuk, Iowa. 
 
 ECeoloilk, Bo. (1,1S5 miles), is 
 the eastern terminus of the Des Moines 
 Valley Railway, and is the semi-capital of 
 Lee County. It is situated on the west 
 bank of the Mississippi Rive?; which is 
 here a mile wide. The lower rapids, at 
 the foot of which the city stands, are 11 
 miles long, and in that distance the water 
 falls 24 feet, affording a good water- 
 power. This is the head of navigation 
 for the very largest size of river-steamers, 
 though large and elegant packets run as 
 far as St. Paul, Minnesota. The city is 
 well built and finely situated, standing 
 upon a limestone formation which fur- 
 nishes good building-material. 
 
 The Medical Department of the State 
 University is situated here, and educa- 
 tional facilities of all kinds are good. The 
 river flows between bluffs about 150 feet 
 in height. In the centre is an island 
 affording good facilities for constructing 
 a bridge at this point. 
 
 The railway follows the course of the 
 Des Moines River, which empties into 
 the Mississippi 4 miles below Keokuk. 
 The river flows through a fertile and un- 
 dulating country, and the valley is in 
 places very beautiful. Improvements 
 are now in progress by which it is in- 
 tended to make the river navigable as far 
 as Des Moines. 
 
 IFji-rainiBng-toja, So. (1,215 miles), 
 is a thriving place, and the shipping- 
 point for a rich fanning district. 
 
 Aslal;ana«l, So. (1,248 miles). A 
 Branch of the Chicago, Rock Island <& 
 Pacific "Railway, running from Wilton, 
 through Muscatine, Washington, etc., con- 
 nect:: here. 
 
 ©tliaanxvia, Bo. (1,200 miles), 
 
 eta with the Burlington & Missouri 
 
 Rircr ami the North Missouri Railways. 
 
 (For description, see Route XIV., page 80.) 
 
 Ouknloosn, Bo. (1,284 miles), 
 82 
 
 the capital of Mahaska County, has an 
 elevated situation, and is surrounded by 
 a fertile region. It was laid out in 
 1844, and has a settled and rapidly-in- 
 creasing population. 
 
 B>es Moiai<*s, Bo. (1,346 miles), 
 has been described in Route XIII. [See 
 page 78.) 
 
 From Des Moines to Omaha the journey 
 is over the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway, which has been described in 
 Route XIII. 
 
 BOUTE XVI. 
 
 FEW YORK TO OMAHA. 
 
 Via Route IT. to Toledo, Ohio, tlience. Ha 
 Toledo, Wabash, <& Western, Hannibal dc 
 AY. Joseph, and Kansas Oity, St. Joseph & 
 Council Bluffs Railways. {Time, — hrs. — 
 Fare, $12.) 
 
 Stations. — Toledo, Wabash d> Western 
 Railway. — Toledo : Maumce City, 9 miles ; 
 Whiteliouse, 17 ; Washington, 26 ; Lib- 
 erty, 30 ; Napoleon, 36 ; Oakland, 43 ; 
 Dciiance, 51 ; Emerald, 61 ; Antwerp, 
 72 ; Woodburn, 80 ; New Haven, 88 ; 
 Fort Wayne (connects with Pittsburg, 
 Fort Wayne & Chicago Railway), 94 ; 
 Roanoke, 110; Huntington, 118; Antioch, 
 124 ; Lagro, 131 ; Wabash, 136 ; Kellers, 
 141; Peru (connects with Indianapolis, 
 Peru & Chicago Railway, 150 ; Waverly, 
 158; Logansport (connects with Colum- 
 bus, Chicago & Indiana Central Railway), 
 166; Clymers, 171; Rocklield, 180; 
 Delphi, 187; Buck Creek, 195; Lafay- 
 ette (connects with Indiana, Cincinnati & 
 Lafayette Railway, and with Louisville, 
 New Albanv & Chicago Railway), 203 ; 
 Wea, 210; West Point, 212; Attica, 22 1; 
 Williamsport, 227; Marshfield, 236 ; State 
 Line, 243 ; Danville (connects with In- 
 dianapolis, Bloomington & Western Rail- 
 way), 250; Catlin, 256; Fairmount, 263 ; 
 Homer, 270 ; Sidney, 276 ; Tolono (con- 
 nects with Chicago Division of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 286 ; Dement, 303 ; 
 Cerro Gordo, 312; Sangamon, 319; 
 Decatur (connects with Main Line of 
 Illinois Central Railway), 324; Niantie, 
 335; Illiopolis, 339; Mechanicsburg, 
 348; Dawson, 351; Howlett, 855; 
 Springfield (connects with Chicago & 
 Alton Railway), 862; Chicago & Alton 
 Junction, 364 ; Curran, "71 ; Berlin, 379 ; 
 
Stations.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO OMAHA, ROUTE XVI. 
 
 [Delphi. 
 
 Island Grove, 381 ; Alexander, 386 ; Or- 
 leans, 388 ; Jacksonville (connects with 
 Jacksonville Division Chicago & Alton 
 Railway), 396 ; Chapin, 406 ; Morgan, 408 ; 
 Neely's, 411; Bluffs, 414; Naples, 418; 
 Griggsville, 428 ; Pittsfield Junction, 432 ; 
 New Salem, 435 ; Barry, 446 ; East 
 Hannibal, 403 ; Hannibal (connects with 
 Hannibal & St. Joseph Railway), 464. 
 
 Stations. — Hannibal & St. Joseph Rail- 
 way. — Hannibal, 464 miles from Toledo ; 
 Barkley, 474 ; Palmyra Junction (con- 
 nects with branch to Quincy, where 
 connections are made with Chicago, Bur- 
 lington & Quincy, and Toledo, Wabash & 
 Western Railways), 479 ; Monroe, 494 ; 
 Hunnewelle, 501 ; Shelbina (connects 
 with stages to Paris and Shelbyville), 
 511; Clarence, 523; Carbon, 531; 
 Macon (connects with North Missouri 
 Railway for St. Louis), 534 ; Bevier, 539 ; 
 Callao, 543 ; New Cambria, 550 ; Bucklin, 
 558; St. Catherine, 564; Brookfield, 
 508 ; Laclede (connects with stage for 
 Brunswick, Linnens, etc.), 573 ; Mead- 
 ville, 579; Wheeling, 584; Chillicothe 
 (connects with stage for Trenton, Prince- 
 ton, etc.), 593 ; Utica, 598 ; Brecken- 
 ridge, 608;- Hamilton (connects with 
 stages for Richmond ami Lexington), 
 619; Kidder, 626; Cameron, 634; 
 Cameron Junction (connects with Cam- 
 eron & Kansas City Branch, for Turney, 
 Lathrop, Holt, Kearney, Robertson, Lib- 
 erty, Arnold, Harlem, and Kansas City), 
 635; Osborn, 640; Stewartsville, 648; 
 Easton, 657 ; St. Joseph (connects with 
 Missouri Valley Railway for Atchison and 
 Leavenworth ; with Kansas City, St. 
 Joseph & Council Bluffs Railway for 
 Council Bluffs and Omaha, there connect- 
 ing with Uuion Pacific Railway for Cali- 
 fornia), 662. 
 
 Stations. — Kansas City, St. Joseph & 
 Council Bluffs Railway. — Nodaway, 676 
 miles from Toledo ; Forest City, 691 ; 
 Bigelow, 701; Corning, 714; Phelps, 
 727 ; Hamburg (connects with Red Oak 
 Branch of the Burlington & Missouri 
 River Railway), 741 ; East Nebraska City, 
 752 ; Bartlett, 767 ; Pacific Junction 
 (connects with Burlington & Missouri 
 River Railway), 775 ; Council Bluffs 
 (connects with all diverging railways and 
 with steamers on Missouri River), 792 ; 
 Omaha, 796. 
 
 Toledo, ©. (715 miles from New 
 York). (See page 19.) 
 
 Manmee City, d». (9 miles), is 
 at the head of actual steamboat naviga- 
 tion on the Mawm.ee River. 
 
 Napoleon, ©. (36 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Henry County, is a village upon the 
 left bank of the Maumee. River, and upon 
 the Wabash <Se Erie Canal. 
 
 E&efaancc, ©, (51 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Defiance County, is upon the site 
 of Fort Defiance, which was built by 
 General Wayne in 1794. It is a pros- 
 perous place, at the junction of the 
 Auglaize with the Maumee River, which 
 latter stream is navigable for small 
 steamers to this point at high water. 
 Ordinarily it is not navigable for vessels 
 of more than about 60 tons' burden. 
 
 Antwerp, <5>. (80 miles), is the 
 last station in Ohio. 
 
 IFort Wayne, Hud. (94 miles), 
 connects with Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & 
 Chicago Railway. (See page 24.) 
 
 ISiantington, End. (118 miles), 
 the capital of Huntington County, is a 
 prosperous place, in the midst of a very 
 fertile country. It is situated on Little 
 River and on the Wabash <& Erie Canal, 
 within one mile of the Forks of the 
 Wabash, upon the site of an Indian vil- 
 lage, once the residence of La Fountain, 
 a chief of the Miami tribe. It is a great 
 centre for lime and building-stone, and is 
 remarkable for its numerous mill-sites 
 and great water-power. 
 
 Lagro, End. (131 miles), is on the 
 Wabash River opposite the mouth of the 
 Salamonie. 
 
 Wabash, End. (136 miles), the 
 capital of Wabash County, is situated 
 upon the river and canal of the same 
 name. 
 
 IPern, End. (150 miles), the capital 
 of Miami County, promises to be an im- 
 portant place. AVithin the past few 
 years it has increased rapidly in popula- 
 tion. (The Howe Sewing-Machine Com- 
 pany has lately established a Western 
 branch of its company here.) The In- 
 dianapolis, Peru & Chicago Railway con- 
 nects at Peru. 
 
 ILiOgansport, End. (166 miles). 
 The Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway connects here. (See page 28.) 
 End. (187 miles), the 
 83 
 
TOLONO.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Springfield. 
 
 capital of Carroll County, is upon the 
 Wabash River, which furnishes a large 
 water-power by means of a dam, which 
 crosses the stream at this point. The 
 surrounding country is fertile, and much 
 of its products finds its way to market 
 by the Wabash & Erie Canal, which 
 passes through the town. Delphi has 
 two large paper-mills, many fine build- 
 ings, a beautiful court-house, about 
 2,500 inhabitants, is beautifully situated, 
 and is a thriving town. 
 
 ILsatfayetie, 1ei«5. (203 miles), 
 the capital of Tippecanoe County, and one 
 of the principal cities in the State, is 
 pleasantly situated on high bottom-land, 
 commanding a fine view of the Wabash 
 River. It derives a large trade from the 
 surrounding country, which is highly cul- 
 tivated, and enters largely into manufac- 
 tures, its railway connections and the 
 Erie & Wabash Canal affording good facil- 
 ities for the transportation of its products. 
 The city is substantially built, and the 
 streets are well paved with gravel or 
 Nicolson pavement. This part of the 
 State is noted for its numerous small 
 prairies, and beautiful oak openings. The 
 Louisville, Ncio Albany & Chicago, and 
 the Indianapolis, Cincinnati <£* Lafayette 
 Railways connect here. The Lafayette, 
 Moominglon & Muncie Railway is nearly 
 completed, and will soon be ready for 
 the trains. 
 
 Atttiea, Iiatl. (224 miles), on the 
 Wabash River, is rapidly gaining in busi- 
 ness and population, its prosperity dating 
 from the completion of the Wabash & 
 L'rie Canal. There are some noble for- 
 ests in this part of the State. 
 
 Willlinmsport, Sna«l. (227 miles), 
 is on the right bank of the IVabash River, 
 which is crossed by the railroad at this 
 point. It is a thriving place, and the 
 capital of Warren County. 
 
 UsBBivilSe, III. (250 miles), the 
 capital of Vermilion County, is situated 
 on the Vermilion River, which furnishes 
 a good water-power. Large coal-mines 
 and an abundance of timber in the im- 
 mediate vicinity afford it unnusual ad- 
 vantages for becoming a prosperous 
 manufacturing town. The Indianapolis, 
 Bloomington <£• Western Railway connects 
 here. 
 
 'ioloiio, 111. (28G miles), is a 
 84 
 
 rapidly-growing village. The Chicago 
 Division of the Illinois Central Railway 
 
 connects here. 
 
 Decatur, SMI. (324 miles), a pros- 
 perous place, containing many handsome 
 buildings, is situated in a fine agricultu- 
 ral region. It is the capital of Macon 
 County. A large rolling-mill has recently 
 been erected here. The Main Line of 
 the Illinois Central Railway and the To- 
 ledo, Wabash & Western Railway connect 
 at Decatur. 
 
 ^Springfield, 111. (362 miles), 
 the capital of the State, and the seat of 
 justice of Sangamon County, is a large 
 and handsome city on the edge of a 
 beautiful prairie. It is regularly laid 
 out, the streets are broad, and the houses 
 well built. The city is on a direct line 
 between Chicago & St. Louis, being 185 
 miles southwest of the former, and 95 
 northeast of the latter place. The State 
 government was established here in 1840. 
 The New State Capitol, which occupies a 
 square near the centre of the city, is con- 
 sidered a model of architectural beauty. 
 The State Arsenal is located here, and 
 there are among other buildings a hand- 
 some Court-House and a United States 
 Court-Souse and Custom-House, built at 
 a cost of $500,000. Population, 17,304. 
 
 The Springfield High School is a fine 
 building, four stories high, the upper one 
 having a hall seating GOO persons. There 
 is also a theatre, and a commodious lec- 
 ture and concert hall. 
 
 Springfield is not only the commercial 
 centre of a fertile agricultural region, but 
 also a manufacturing and milling place. 
 
 The extensive shops of the Toledo, 
 Wabash & Western Railway Company arc 
 worth visiting. 
 
 Leland Hotel, kept by the well-known 
 Leland brothers, is a capital house. 
 
 Approaching the city, the traveller 
 sees on the right hand the reservoir of 
 the City 1 1 r ater Works, the supply-pipe of 
 which, when the pumping-machincry at 
 the Sangamon River, four miles distant, 
 is at work, appears like an immense foun- 
 tain. It is a striking object, and, when 
 the sun is shining on the falling water, 
 is very beautiful. The extensive build- 
 ings of the Springfield Watch Company 
 arc to be located near this spot. 
 
 Two miles north of the city is Ridge 
 
Jacksonville.] NEW YORK TO OMAHA, ROUTE XVI. 
 
 [Monroe. 
 
 Cemetery, a picturesque and well-kept 
 burying-ground, 72 acres in extent. At its 
 southeastern extremity six acres are set 
 apart for the use of the Lincoln Monu- 
 ment Association, and here, marking the 
 last resting-place of the late President, 
 there is a noble monument. 
 
 The following railways centre here: 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western, Chicago & 
 Alton, and the Springfield cb Illinois South- 
 eastern. The Gilman, Clinton & Spring- 
 Held and the Springfield & Northwestern 
 Railways were completed in the summer 
 of 1871. The Springfield & St. Louis 
 Railway is soon to be constructed. 
 
 •FaclssoBaville, 111. (39G miles), 
 noted for its handsome public buildings 
 and educational and charitable institu- 
 tions, has thus been described by a tourist : 
 
 " It looks like a village made to order 
 at the East, with neat houses — some 
 wood, some brick — with gardens filled 
 with flowers and shrubbery, with wide 
 and cleanly streets adorned with shade- 
 trees, with academies, churches, and a 
 college, clustering about the village cen- 
 tre, while well-tilled farms stretch along 
 the borders on every side." 
 
 The State Asylum for the Deaf and 
 Dumb, the State Asylum for the Blind, 
 and the State Asylum for the Insane, are 
 all located here, each being about a mile 
 from the centre of the town. They oc- 
 cupy, relatively, three sides of a quad- 
 rangle, of which the town is the centre. 
 Illinois College, an institution of some 
 repute, founded in 1830, stands on a 
 commanding elevation. It has a good 
 library. Besides the common schools, 
 there are a Methodist Female and two 
 other academies. The Jackson Division 
 of the Chicago & Alton Railway and the 
 Peoria, Pekin & Jacksonville Railway con- 
 nect here. Population, 9,203. 
 
 HSaa£F<Caty, 111. (414 miles). The 
 Quincy Branch diverges here. 
 
 Naples, 111. (418 miles), is a pros- 
 perous village on the Illinois River, which 
 the traveller crosses at this point. It 
 has a large trade, shipping by steamboats 
 great quantities of pork, grain, etc. 
 
 East SSaatBallsai, 111. (463 
 miles), the actual terminus of the road, 
 .s on the Mississippi River, opposite the 
 city of Hannibal, Missouri, to which 
 point travellers cross to take the cars of 
 
 the Hannibal & St. Joseph Railway. The 
 railroad-bridge across the Mississippi, 
 just finished at this point, is one of the 
 great works of the present day. The 
 length between the abutments is 1,580 
 feet. It is 18 feet wide in the clear, 
 and is intended for both railway and 
 highway travel. With the exception of 
 the piers and flooring, the bridge is of 
 wrought-iron throughout. The amount 
 of material used is something enormous : 
 400,000 lineal feet of piling, 1,000,000 
 feet of timber and flooring, 10,000 tons 
 of masonry, 10,000 tons rip-rap, 4,000 
 tons of concrete, and 1,350 tons of 
 iron. The structure cost about $500,- 
 000. 
 
 Elaraiallsal, Mo. (464 miles), is a 
 prosperous and fast-growing city on the 
 right bank of the Mississippi River, 153 
 miles above St. Louis. There are flour- 
 ing-mills, and tobacco and other manu- 
 factories at this place. Coal and carbonif- 
 erous limestone abound in the vicinity, 
 and the surrounding country is very fer- 
 tile. 
 
 Passengers for the West take the 
 Hannibal & St. Joseph Railway here, 
 and connections are also made with 
 the various lines of river-steamers. A 
 railroad from Hannibal to St. Louis is 
 projected. 
 
 IPalmyra., I?S©. (479 miles), the 
 capital of Marion County, is a flourishing 
 place, pleasantly located about six miles 
 west of the Mississippi River. The 
 branch road connecting with the Chicago, 
 Burlington & Quincy and the Toledo, 
 Wabash & Western Railways, at Quincy, 
 connects here. 
 
 Moiaroe, II©. (494 miles), is a 
 small village in Monroe County. Coal, 
 limestone, and freestone, are found in the 
 vicinity. 
 
 On the 11th of July, 1861, the depot 
 and station-buildings were burned by the 
 Confederate troops under the command 
 of General Price. A detachment of Union 
 troops was obliged to take shelter in a 
 college on the northeast side of the town. 
 They there maintained a gallant defence, 
 under the command of Major Josiah 
 Hunt, until they were relieved by the 
 arrival of a party of troops under com- 
 mand of Captain Louis Souther. The 
 assault and defence of this place was one 
 85 
 
SllELBINA.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations 
 
 of the most severe of many affairs of the 
 kind which occurred along the line of the 
 Hannibal <£ St. Joseph Railway. 
 
 Shelhiua, Mo. (511 miles). 
 Stages for Paris, the capital of Monroe 
 County, and Shelbyvillc, the capital of 
 Shelby County, connect at this point. 
 
 Mucosa, Mo. (534 miles), is the 
 crossing of the North Missouri Railway, 
 now running from Ottuniwa, Io., to St. 
 Louis, Mo. 
 
 BSrookiicM, Mo. (568 miles), 
 situated in a fertile prairie, was first 
 settled in 1859, and, though one of the 
 principal stations on the road, is as yet 
 but a small village. The railway com- 
 pany has an engine-house and machine- 
 shop here. 
 
 'Bun, Clede, Mo. (573 miles), is the 
 shipping-point of a large and fertile 
 country. There is an abundance of coal 
 in the vicinity. Stages for Brunswick on 
 the Western Division of the North Mis- 
 souri Railway connect here. 
 
 Chiliicothe, Mo. (593 miles), 
 the capital of Livingston County, is sur- 
 rounded by a prairie. It is on the line of 
 a projected railway from St. Louis to 
 Council Bluffs, and to Des Moines, Io. 
 Stages for Trenton, the capital of 
 Grundy County, Princeton, the capital of 
 Mercer County, and for other points, 
 connect here. 
 
 Sfianmilioii, Mo. (619 miles). 
 Stages for Richmond on the Western 
 Division of the North Missouri Railway, 
 and Lexington on the Missouri River, 
 connect at this place. 
 
 €aiueron, Mo. (634 miles), is the 
 junction of the Cameron & Kansas City 
 Branch, which will eventually be extended 
 to Des Moines, Io. A branch to Leaven- 
 worth is also to diverge from this point. 
 
 St. Joseph, Mo. (062 miles from 
 Toledo, and by the route we have fol- 
 lowed 1,377 from New York), is the chief 
 city of Western Missouri, and is the capital 
 of Buchanan County. It is situated on the 
 east bank of the Missouri River, by water 
 49G miles above St. Louis. Even before 
 the days of railroads it was one of the 
 principal points of departure for Western- 
 bound emigrants, and now is of much 
 greater importance owing to the system 
 of roads, completed and constructing, 
 which centre hero. It wa3 laid out in 
 8G 
 
 1843. The population is rapidly increas- 
 ing. St. Joseph (or St. Joe, as it is 
 generally called out West) docs consider- 
 able manufacturing, and is the com- 
 mercial centre of the adjacent country 
 for many miles around. It contains 
 some handsome buildings. The Missouri 
 Valley Railway and the Kansas City, St. 
 Joseph & Council Bluffs Railway connect 
 here, and several others in various direc- 
 tions are rapidly being pushed to com- 
 pletion. 
 
 From St. Joseph to Council Bluffs the 
 traveller passes up the Missouri V T alley 
 over the track of the Kansas City, St. 
 Joseph & Council Bluffs Railway, but 
 none of the stations are of enough im- 
 portance to be mentioned. 
 
 Cousacil IBluifc, Io. (792 miles). 
 {See page 74.) 
 
 Omalia, Weh. (796 miles), will be 
 described as the first station on the Union 
 Pacific Railway. {See page 95.) 
 
 HO UTE XVII. 
 
 FROM ST. LOUIS TO DENVER AND 
 CHEYENNE. 
 
 Via Pacific Railway of Missouri, Kansas 
 Pacific & Denver Pacific Railways. 
 
 PACIFIC RAILWAY OF MISSOURI. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis — Cheltenham, 5 
 miles from St. Louis ; Laclede, 8 ; Web- 
 ster, 10; Kirkwood, 13; Barrett's (con- 
 nocts with stages to Manchester), 1 6 ; 
 Mcramec, 19 ; St. Paul, 24 ; Glencoe, 26 ; 
 Eureka, 30 ; Allenton, 32 ; Franklin 
 (connects with South Pacific Railway), 
 37 ; Gray's Summit, 41 ; Labadie, 4 1 ; 
 South Point, 52 ; Washington, 54 ; Mil- 
 ler's Landing, 67 ; Berger, 75 ; Hermann, 
 81; Gasconade, 88; Chamois, 100; St. 
 Aubert, 105; Bonnot's Mill, 112; Osage, 
 117 ; Jefferson City (connects with steam- 
 boats for points on Missouri River), 125 ; 
 Centrctown, 140 ; California, 150 ; Moni- 
 teau, 156; Tipton (connects with Boon- 
 ville Branch), 162; Syracuse, 168; Ot- 
 tcrville, 175 ; Scdalia (connects with 
 stages to Springfield), 188 ; Dresden, 195 ; 
 Knobnoster, 207 ; Warrensburg (connects 
 with stages to Lexington), 218; Holden, 
 232 ; Kingsville, 236 ; Pleasant Hill (con- 
 nects with stages to Fort Scott), 2 IS; 
 
Stations.] ST. LOUIS TO DENVER, ETC., EOUTE XVII. [Gasconade. 
 
 Lee's Summit, 259 ; Little Blue, 265 ; 
 Independence, 272 ; Kansas City (con- 
 nects with all railways centring here), 
 282 ; State Line (connects with Kansas 
 Pacific Railway), 233 ; Wyandotte, 285. 
 
 KANSAS PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 (For distance from St. Louis, add 283 miles 
 to distance given below.) 
 Stations. — Wyandotte — West Kansas 
 City (connects with the Hannibal & St. 
 Joseph and North Missouri Railways for 
 St. Louis and Chicago) ; State Line (con- 
 nects with Missouri Pacific Railway for 
 St. Louis and Chicago) ; Muncy, 8 miles 
 from State Line ; Secondine, 9 ; Ed- 
 wardsville, 13 ; Tiblow, 16 ; Lenape, 
 22 ; Stranger, 27 ; Leavenworth & Law- 
 rence Junction, 36 ; Lawrence (connects 
 with Leavenworth, Lawrence & Galveston 
 Railway), 38 ; Buck Creek, 45 ; Perry- 
 ville, 51; Medina, 52; Grantville, 60; 
 Topeka (connects with Atchison, Topeka 
 & Santa Fe Railway), 6*7 ; Silver Lake, 
 77 ; Rossville, 83 ; St. Mary's, 90 ; Wa- 
 mego, 103; St. George, 110; Manhattan, 
 118 ; Ogden, 129 ; Fort Riley, 135 ; Junc- 
 tion City (connects with Missouri, Kansas 
 & Texas Railway), 138 ; Chapman's Creek, 
 150; Abilene, 162 ; Solomon, 171 ; Salina, 
 185; Brookville, 200; Fort Barker, 218; 
 Ellsworth, 223 ; Bunker Hill, 252 ; Wal- 
 ker's, 274 ; Hays, 288 ; Ellis, 302 ; Ogal- 
 lah, 312; Parksfort, 322; Coyote, 340; 
 Grinnell, 364 ; Monument, 385 ; Sheridan, 
 405 ; Wallace, 420 ; Cheyenne Wells, 
 462 ; Kit Carson (connects with the 
 Southern Overland Mail and Express Com- 
 pany's daily line of coaches for Fort 
 Lyons, Pueblo, Trinidad, Los Vegas, 
 Santa Fe, and all points in New Mexico 
 and Arizona), 487 ; Hugo, 534 ; River 
 Bend, 555 ; Agate, 572 ; Denver Pacific 
 Junction, 636 ; Denver (connects with 
 Denver Pacific Railway), 639. 
 
 DENVER PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 (For distances from St. Louis, add 922 
 miles to distance given below.) 
 Stations. — Denver, 613 miles from 
 State Line ; Hughes, 630 ; Johnson, 645 ; 
 Evans. 661 ; Greeley, 665 ; Pierce, 6S0 ; 
 Carr, 699 ; Summit Siding, 709 ; Cheyenne 
 'connects with Union Pacific Railway), 
 719. 
 
 £>t. ILoiiis, WJff©., is fully described 
 in Route VII. 
 
 Webster, Mo. (10 miles), a flour- 
 ishing village of about 1,200 inhabitants, 
 is the first settlement worth notice west 
 of St. Louis, on the Missouri Pacific Rail- 
 way. Its principal marketable product 
 are grapes, of which it raises large quan- 
 tities. Land in the neighborhood is 
 worth about $800 per acre, 
 
 E££b*1civoo<I, Mo. (13 miles), is a 
 favorite country residence with St. Louis 
 merchants, who have expended much 
 money in beautifying their houses and 
 grounds. The population is about 2,500. 
 The country around is thickly settled. 
 The price of improved land is from $500 
 to $1,500 per acre. 
 
 ! B a,ciflic, MI©. (37 miles), formerly 
 called Franklin, is a growing town. Here 
 the South Pacific Railway branches off 
 for Springfield and. Southwestern Mis- 
 souri, and is open for 300 miles. A fine 
 quality of white sand is found here, and 
 is shipped in large quantities to Pitts- 
 burg, for the manufacture of glass. The 
 inhabitants are mostly Germans. The 
 surrounding country is rocky and broken, 
 and ill adapted to agriculture. 
 
 "Wasbimg-t ©ra, Mo. (54 miles), is 
 a pretty place of 3,700 inhabitants, on the 
 Missouri River. It contains eight churches 
 and the same number of public schools. 
 Almost every man here owns his own 
 house and lot. 
 
 SSci'iEuaiaM, M©. (81 miles), the 
 capital of Gasconade County, is situated 
 on the southern bank of the Missouri 
 River. It was settled in 183S, under the 
 auspices of the German Settlement So- 
 ciety of Philadelphia. Grapes are ex- 
 tensively cultivated, and in 1 870 upward 
 of 500,000 gallons of wine, of good quali- 
 ty, were manufactured. Land within a 
 circuit of six miles is valued at from $25 
 to $75 per acre. 
 
 CJascoiiMiEe, a flag-station, seven 
 miles west, has been rendered historical 
 through a terrible accident that occurred 
 there on the opening of the road to Jef- 
 ferson City. The passenger-train was 
 the first on the road, and among the 
 excursionists were many prominent resi- 
 dents of St. Louis. As the cars were 
 crossing the new bridge over the Gascon- 
 ade River, the timbers gave way, pre- 
 87 
 
Jefferson City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Independence. 
 
 cipitating the engine and all but one car 
 into the water, a distance of over 50 feet. 
 
 •Beliersoaa City, Mo. (125 miles), 
 is the capital of the State of Missouri and 
 of Cole County. It is beautifully situated 
 on high bluffs, and commands a fine view 
 of the river for miles above and below 
 the city. During the session of the State 
 Legislature its streets present an ani- 
 mated appearance. It has a population 
 of about 7,000 inhabitants. The Capitol 
 is a fine structure, of limestone, erected 
 in 183G. The Slate Penitentiary is large 
 and well built. The city is laid out at 
 right angles, and has some handsome 
 business blocks and residences. Coal is 
 found in abundance in the neighborhood, 
 which is well settled and cultivated. 
 Most of the new settlers are Germans. 
 
 California, Mo. (150 miles), is 
 the capital of Moniteau County, and one 
 of the oldest towns along the railway 
 line. It was laid out in 1845, and chris- 
 tened Boonsborough. Two years later it 
 changed this for its present name. The 
 population is about 2,500. The settlers 
 are mostly of Teutonic extraction. The 
 town suffered greatly during the late war, 
 at the time of Price's raid the Confeder- 
 ates destroying the depot and other 
 buildings. The new Court-House, erected 
 in 1868, cost $52,000. The country around 
 California is good, but sparsely settled. 
 
 Tijpttom, Mo. (162 miles), is a small 
 place, surrounded by a thickly-settled 
 farming district. The Boonville Branch 
 of the Pacific Railway starts from here, 
 and runs to the Missouri River, a distance 
 of 28 miles. Farm-land in the neighbor- 
 hood of Tipton is worth about $35 per 
 acre. 
 
 Scelalia, Mo. (1SS miles), is now 
 the most important point of business on 
 the railroad between St. Louis and Kan- 
 sas City. The town, which is built on a 
 beautiful rolling prairie, is laid out at 
 right angles, and has a prosperous ap- 
 pearance. It is very near the centre of 
 Pettis County, of which it is the capital. 
 The population is about 6,000. The first 
 house was built in 1860. The following 
 year, the railroad reached Sedalia, which 
 was its terminus for three years. During 
 the war a military post was established, 
 from which troops and supplies were 
 forwarded to the West and Southwest. 
 88 
 
 The town is lighted by gas, has a hand- 
 some opera-house, and many first-class 
 improvements. Sedalia is the end of the 
 Eastern Division of the Pacific road. 
 The Tebo and Neosho Railway is now 
 completed from this place to Fort Scott, 
 Kansas. The Missouri, Kansas & Texas 
 Railway commences at Sedalia, and ex- 
 tends to Houston and Galveston. 
 
 limoljnoster, Mo. (207 miles), 
 is a small but well-improved place. It is 
 named after the beautiful mound upon 
 which it is built, and from which can be 
 seen villages and farms for many miles 
 around. There are large coal-mines in 
 the neighborhood. Land is worth about 
 $35 per acre. 
 
 Wanrremslsnrg', M6. (217 miles), 
 is a flourishing place of 4,000 inhabitants, 
 and is the capital of Johnson County. It 
 is 35 years old, but was almost without 
 life until the railroad was constructed ; 
 since then the whole county has in- 
 creased in population over 300 per cent. 
 Warrcnsburg is a large wheat-depot, and 
 has a steam-elevator of great capacity. 
 No county in Missouri is better adapted 
 for the raising of cereals than Johnson. 
 Land is worth from $15 to $40 per acre. 
 HoMcn, Mo. (232 miles), was 
 located on the line of the Pacific road in 
 1858; but during the war all the prin- 
 cipal buildings were destroyed. In the 
 summer of 1865 it was resurveyed, and 
 has growu to be one of the liveliest points 
 along the road. It has now a population 
 of about 3,000, and a large trade. It is 
 surrounded by fine prairie farm-lands. 
 
 B?leasant Mall, Mo. (2 IS miles), 
 is beautifully situated in the extreme 
 northeast corner of Cass County, on an 
 eminence that commands a good view of 
 the rich farm-lands around. It is made 
 up of three parts, old town, middle town, 
 and new town. It is noted for its churches, 
 of which it lias seven, although the popu- 
 lation is only about 3,000. Harrisonville, 
 the capital of the county, lies 12 miles 
 south. 
 
 Bice's Snmmiiit, Mo. (250 miles), 
 is a thriving town in one of the richest 
 parts of Jackson County. Laud in the 
 neighborhood is worth from $10 to $70 
 per acre. 
 
 Independence, Mo. (272 
 miles), is the capital of Jackson County, 
 
Kansas City.] ST. LOUIS TO DENVER, ETC., ROUTE XVII. [Wyandotte. 
 
 and one of the most beautiful and pic- 
 turesque places in the State. It was first 
 settled in 1827, and for many years was 
 an outfitting point for the New-Mexican 
 and Indian trade. During the war, it 
 was twice taken by the Confederates. 
 The population is about 3,500. Inde- 
 pendence was once settled by the Mor- 
 mons, who called it the seat of the New 
 Jerusalem. F. T. Aubrey landed here 
 after his celebrated John Gilpin ride 
 from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The sur- 
 rounding country is fast becoming set- 
 tled, and is dotted all over with hand- 
 some dwellings. 
 
 Malagas City, Mo. (282 miles), 
 is the most important commercial point 
 along the Kansas Pacific Railroad, and is 
 the second city in the State. It is situ- 
 ated on the southern bank of the Missouri 
 River, just below the mouth of the Kaw 
 River, and adjoining the boundary-line 
 of Kansas and Missouri. Despite its 
 almost interminable hills and hollows, it 
 has many natural advantages, and for 
 nearly a hundred miles is surrounded by 
 rich farming lands which are being rapidly 
 settled and improved. Its geographical 
 position is very favorable, and, with its 
 railroads, increasing trade, and other 
 advantages, makes it one of the most 
 prosperous and promising cities of the 
 West. 
 
 Kansas City was laid out in 1830 ; its 
 growth was slow until 1856, when it began 
 to improve rapidly. In 1860 the popula- 
 tion was 4,418, and in 18*70 it was 32,296. 
 At the breaking out of the war it was about 
 7,000 ; but, for the four years following, 
 the growth of the city was stayed, its 
 avenues of trade blockaded, and its com- 
 merce almost crushed out. 
 
 With peace came prosperity, however, 
 and its advance since 1865 has been a 
 marvel to all. Kansas City has the 
 honor of having built the first bridge 
 across the Missouri, which it did at a 
 cost of $1,000,000. This bridge, which 
 has seven piers, four of them resting on 
 the rocky bed of the river, is 1,387 feet 
 long. 
 
 Kansas City is the terminus of eight 
 railways : the Missouri Pacific, running 
 to St. Louis ; the Missouri River Railway, 
 running to Atchison ; the West Branch 
 of the North Missouri, running to Moberly ; 
 
 the Missouri River, Fort Scott & Gulf 
 Railwai/, running to Baxter's Springs ; 
 the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council 
 Bluffs Road, running to Council Blurts ; 
 the Kansas Pacific, running to Denver ; 
 the Kansas City & Cameron Road, run- 
 ning to Cameron ; and the Kansas City 
 & Santa Fe Railway, now completed as 
 far as Coffyville, Franklin County, Kan- 
 sas ; making in all nearly 3,000 miles of 
 railway terminating at this point. The 
 roads now building are the Kansas City & 
 Memphis and Louisiana & Missouri River, 
 and two or three others are projected. 
 
 The following is a condensed exhibit 
 of the business for 1870: Bank deposits, 
 $65,125,250 ; exchange sold, $30,000,000; 
 number of buildings erected, 1,100, at a 
 cost of $4,000,000 ; amount of real estate 
 transfers, $5,427,846.64; eleven miles 
 of sidewalk been built ; seven miles of 
 streets graded ; 750,000 tons of freight 
 received ; the wholesale and retail trade 
 amounted to $40,000,000 ; total amount 
 of manufactures, $12,000,000; and 
 $115,026.58 was assessed as special 
 revenue tax. 
 
 The educational facilities of Kansas 
 City are excellent ; every ward has a 
 substantial brick public school-house. 
 There are two theatres besides the opera- 
 house ; and the hotels, churches, busi- 
 ness-blocks, and suburban residences, will 
 compare favorably with those of cities of 
 greater age. 
 
 Wyaaa«l©£tc, Mas. (2S5 miles), 
 the capital of Wyandotte County, the 
 first town in Kansas on the Union Pacific 
 Road, is pleasantly situated. It was for 
 some time the terminus of the Kansas 
 Pacific, but is now only a way station. 
 The population is about 3,000. The 
 country immediately surrounding the 
 place is hilly and somewhat broken, but 
 back from the river it is excellent. A 
 good bridge spans the Kaw River at this 
 point. Wyandotte was first laid out in 
 1855, when "paper towns" were the 
 great rage in Kansas. 
 
 Two hundred years ago, the great 
 Wyandotte nation dwelt on the shore of 
 Lake Erie, although scarcely fifty years 
 since, driven westward by the inroads of 
 civilization, they lived on the banks of 
 the Missouri, at this point. There is a 
 legend of a far-famed beauty in the tribe, 
 89 
 
Lawrence.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR 
 
 [St. Mary's Mission. 
 
 who attracted many lovers, but none 
 could move her obdurate heart. At last 
 a stalwart chief laid siege to her affec- 
 tions. Scores of scalps hung from his 
 belt, and he bore the scars of many a 
 hard-fought battle. Before this ardent 
 wooer the dusky beauty relented ; but 
 she would accept him only upon solemn 
 promise to do a deed which she was to 
 name after he should assume the obliga- 
 tion. It was rash, but he took the vow. 
 Then she made her demand. He must 
 bring her the scalp of a Seneca cbief, his 
 friend and the ally of his nation. En- 
 treaties and remonstrances were in vain, 
 her hate was stronger than her pity. It 
 was hard, but the old brave had sworn 
 by his great medicine, and, like young 
 Melnotte, he kept his oath. He brought 
 the coveted scalp to this modern Hero- 
 dias ; but the wanton murder inaugurated 
 a bloody war which outlasted the siege 
 of Troy. It continued for more than 
 thirty years, greatly reduced the Wyan- 
 dottes, and almost exterminated the 
 Senecas. 
 
 The late Albert D. Richardson, who 
 tells this story, asks, " Why are the banks 
 of the Sandusky less classic than the 
 shores of the Hellespont ? Why are 
 Senecas and Wyandottes forgotten, and 
 Greeks and Trojans immortal ? The war 
 of the former was three times longer, 
 greater, more romantic. But the Homer 
 was wanting to sing its epic." 
 
 JLawreiace, Mns. (320 miles), 
 the capital of Douglas County, is situated 
 on the right bank of the Kansas River. 
 It is one of the most beautiful towns of 
 the West, and has considerable impor- 
 tance, having a population of about 10,000. 
 It was first settled in 1854 by a colony of 
 New-Englanders, and a few years later 
 was the scene of much bloodshed be- 
 tween these and the " Border Ruffians." 
 On the 21st of August, 1863, there was a 
 frightful massacre by a band of Quan- 
 trell'a guerillas, who surprised the town, 
 killing some 150 persons, and burning 
 about 75 buildings. The enterprising 
 citizens soon recovered from this calam- 
 ity, in less than a year erecting new and 
 finer houses in (lie place of those de- 
 stroyed, and building many others. The 
 Stale University, a handsome edifice, is 
 situated on Mount Oread, overlooking 
 90 
 
 the city. A bridge, built at a cost of 
 $4 5,000, crosses the river. 
 
 Two miles before reaching Lawrence, 
 the Kansas & Pacific Railway connects 
 with the Leavenworth, Lawrence & GaU 
 vestor. Railway. The latter is open 144 
 miles to Parker, Southern Kansas. Doug- 
 las County is well settled, and contains 
 some of the most fertile land in the 
 State. A new line of railway is now be- 
 ing built from Lawrence to Pleasant 
 Hill, Mo., which will give almost an air- 
 line to St. Louis. North Lawrence is on 
 the other side of the river, and surrounds 
 the depot. 
 
 TTopelca, Mas. (350 miles), the 
 capital of Kansas, and the seat of justice of 
 Shawnee County, is beautifully situated on 
 the south bank of the Kansas River. The 
 State-House, which cost $400,000, is one 
 of the finest in the West, and large enough 
 to serve as such for many years to come. 
 The city is well laid out, and has, among 
 other fine buildings, Lincoln College, one of 
 the leading educational establishments in 
 the State, and the Topeka Female Institute, 
 which is under the charge of the Epis- 
 copal Church. The school system of 
 Kansas is unsurpassed by that of any 
 Western State. Persons desiring to buy 
 land in Kansas should go to Topeka, 
 where the principal U. S. Land Office is 
 situated. The population is about 8,000, 
 nearly 6,000 being negroes. The Atchi- 
 son, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway ) now 
 finished as far as Sargent, 417 miles from 
 Topeka, diverges here. 
 
 Topeka is an Indian name, and signifies 
 " potatoes." It has certainly outgrown 
 the sobriquet of " small potatoes," and 
 become one of the most flourishing 
 towns in Kansas. The country which is 
 around the celebrated Potawatamie In- 
 dian reservation is very rich, and is be- 
 ing settled up rapidly. The bridge over 
 the Kaw River cost $70,000. A fine capi- 
 tal is building, at a cost of $3,000,000. 
 
 St. Mary's Mission, 3£as. 
 (373 miles), is so called from the Catholic 
 school, for the education of the Indiati 
 youth, which is established here. It is 
 the centre of the "Potawatamie Indian 
 Reservation," a rich agricultural district 
 about thirty miles square. The mission 
 was established in IS 18 by the Jesuits. 
 About 2,000 of that Potawatamie tribe 
 
Wamego.] ST. LOUIS TO DENVER, ETC., ROUTE XVII. [Solomon City. 
 
 reside near it, many of their child ren at- 
 tending the school. It is purposed to 
 build a Catholic seminary here, at a cost 
 of $100,000. Excellent land in the 
 neighborhood can be bought for from 
 $5 to $15 per acre. 
 
 Wraiuego, lias. (386 miles), is 
 the end of the first division of the Kansas 
 Pacific Railway, and is quite a thriving 
 little place. It is situated on the banks 
 of the Kaw River, near the southern line 
 of Potawatamie County. The town 
 was laid out in the summer of 1866, by 
 the employes of the Kansas Pacific 
 Railway Company. It is named after a 
 distinguished chief of the tribe whose 
 bones now rest in the reservation. 
 
 St. &}eorg-«, Eias. (393 miles), 
 is at the mouth of the Black Jack Creek, 
 from which it receives a valuable water- 
 power, which is added to by the fall in 
 the Kansas River at this point. The 
 town has become one of the most impor- 
 tant points on the road as a grain-depot. 
 It is surrounded by rich and beautiful 
 farming land, and bluffs which are admi- 
 rably adapted to the culture of the grape, 
 and furnish the finest building-stone on 
 either side of the river. 
 
 Masaliattan, lias. (401 miles), 
 the capital of Riley County, lies at the 
 junction of the Big Blue and the Kansas 
 Rivers, and is a flourishing place. The 
 Agricultural College is located here. Five 
 miles above the town, there is a fine 
 water-power on the Blue River. Manhat- 
 tan is one of the oldest and one of 
 the handsomest places in the State. 
 It was laid out in 1854. The loca- 
 tion is beautiful, being in a rich val- 
 ley, which is walled in by a circular range 
 of high bluffs. The buildings are princi- 
 pally of stone. In the northern portion 
 of the county are large settlements of 
 Germans and Swedes. Land is worth 
 from $10 to $50 per acre. 
 
 Og-tlen, Mas. (412 miles), is a well- 
 built town, surrounded by a fine agri- 
 cultural and grazing country. There are 
 good stone-quarries in the neighborhood. 
 
 IFort HSiley, Mas. (418 miles), is 
 a military post, at the junction of the 
 two main branches of the Kansas River 
 (called Republican and Smoky Hill Forks). 
 it is situated in the midst of a fertile 
 country which abounds, in timber, build- 
 
 ing-materials, good water and grass. It 
 is used as a receiving and refitting rendez- 
 vous for troops going farther West. 
 Near this place there is a Methodist mis- 
 sion. A splendid military road which 
 commences at Fort Leavenworth passes 
 through Fort Riley. The fort contains 
 quarters for 1,200 men, and has until re- 
 cently been used as an artillery-school. 
 The military reservation for this post is 
 25,000 acres, 5,000 of which has been 
 given toward bridging the Republican 
 River. 
 
 •Janction City, Mas. (421 
 miles), the capital of Davis County, is 
 situated on the left bank of the Kansas 
 River, near the mouth of the Republican. 
 It is a place of active business, and has a 
 Uuited States Land-Office. The vallevs 
 of the Smoky Hill River, along which the 
 railway continues its course, are very 
 productive. In the bluffs near the town 
 large beds of masnesian limestone are 
 found, and rich quarries from which a 
 fiue, light-colored stone, somewhat like 
 marble iu appearance, is obtained. The 
 Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway con- 
 nects at Junction City, and is now com- 
 pleted to Denison, Texas, where it con- 
 nects with the Texas Central. Junction 
 City was laid out in 1858, and has now a 
 population of about 2,500. There is no 
 finer town-site along the whole road. It 
 is the centre of a large net-work of small 
 villages, whose intervening hills make up 
 a scene that is both picturesque and 
 grand. {See Appendix.) 
 
 Abilene, Bias. (445 miles), the 
 capital of Dickinson County, lies in the 
 Smoky Valley, which is here wide and 
 fertile, and affords excellent grazing. 
 With the larger cattle-dealing firms it is 
 a favorite point of concentration and 
 shipment to the East for Mexican and 
 Texan cattle. 
 
 Solomon City, lias. (454 
 miles), is an enterprising little town on 
 the north bank of Solomon River, one of 
 the chief branches of Smoky Hill River, 
 heading near the base of the Rocky 
 Mountains, and for more than 250 miles 
 flowing through one of the most beautiful 
 valleys in Kansas. A New-Englander 
 has engaged here in the extensive manu- 
 facture of salt. In some places the 
 water is almost pure brine. The sur 
 91 
 
Fort Hays.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Denvek. 
 
 rounding country is bottom-land and fine 
 rolling prairie. 
 
 Safigia, Mas. (408 miles), the 
 capital of Salina County, is situated on 
 the Smoky Hill Fork of the Kansas 
 River, in the midst of a fine agricultural 
 country, abounding in rich saline springs 
 and inexhaustable quarries of gypsum. 
 It is destined to be the great shipping- 
 point for the productive valley of the 
 Scdina River, and for the fertile country 
 south of it along the Smoky II ill. South 
 of the city a large colony of thrifty Swedes 
 is settled, owning 15,000 acres of rich 
 railway lands ; and lying to the east is a 
 colony of Scotchmen, who have purchased 
 46,000 acres of railway lands. Under 
 the hands of such desirable colonists this 
 section of the State is bound to prosper 
 greatly. The town was located in 1858. 
 This section of the country is particularly 
 well adapted for grazing. 
 
 SSrooltvIllc, Bias. (483 miles), 
 is the end of the second division of the 
 Kansas Pacific Railway, and a fine rail- 
 way depot is building here. A few 
 miles above it is the promising little 
 town of Bavaria, originally settled by a 
 colony from Ohio. Both are small towns, 
 and have no local trade, the country 
 around being unsettled, save by prairie- 
 dog villages. 
 
 IForS Mas-leer, Mas. (501 miles), 
 one of the military depots for the forts 
 on the Arkansas, has accommodations 
 for 500 men. It is a well-built post. 
 
 Ellswoirtla, Mas. (506 miles), is 
 situated in a fine stock-raising and a fair 
 farming country, directly upon the north 
 bend of the Smoky Hill River. 
 
 Fori Mays, Mas. (571 miles), 
 an important military point in the west- 
 ern part of the State, is situated upon 
 the plains, and has a fine position. Op- 
 posite, upon Big Creek, is Hays City, the 
 centre of the buffalo range. The tourist 
 who wishes to try his skill in hunting 
 " the monarch of the plains," can have an 
 opportunity of doing so by stopping at 
 this point. Fort Lamed, ('amp Supply, 
 and Fort Dodge, get their mails and gov- 
 ernment supplies from here. Fort Hays is 
 built on a commanding elevation, and is 
 one of the handsomest posts in the West. 
 With the exception ofa stone block-house, 
 the buildings arc of wood,and very neat. 
 92 
 
 ghcridan, Mas. (688 miles), is 
 on the north fork of the Smoky Hill 
 River. It was formerly of some impor- 
 tance as the terminus of the Kansas 
 Pacific Railway, and had a population of 
 about 1,000 souls ; but the iron track, in 
 passing into the region beyond, has left 
 Sheridan only a town in name. 
 
 Fort Wallace, Mas. (703 
 miles), is an important military post, and 
 a good base for operations. It is a short 
 distance from the road, and is built of 
 flesh-colored stone, which gives it a very 
 striking appearance. It is near the 
 western boundary-line of Kansas. 
 
 Mat Carson, Col. (770 miles), 
 named after the great " Pathfinder," is 
 situated on Sand Creek, about 20 miles 
 above the spot where Colonel Chiving- 
 ton's great Indian massacre took place. 
 At present this is the shipping-point for 
 goods going to New Mexico and South- 
 ern Colorado, and there are three large 
 commission-houses to do the business. 
 Government also has a warehouse here 
 for military stores. The place is pictu- 
 resque with " prairie schooners." * In the 
 neighborhood is scarcely any thing but 
 sand-banks, and the only business the 
 place has, is that furnished by the 
 freighters. 
 
 Kit Carson was formerly the terminus 
 of the railway. Large warehouses were 
 built here, and the place grew rapidly for 
 a time. Now Denver is the great central 
 point of Colorado. 
 
 Between Kit Carson and Denver there 
 are three or four " station towns," and 
 the country along the line of the railway 
 is rapidly filling up. 
 
 B>eaaver, Col. (022 miles), in point 
 of rapid growth and substantial prosperi- 
 ty, is one of the most remarkable cities 
 in the Great West. It is beautifully situ- 
 ated on a plain at the junction of Cherry 
 Creek, on the right bank of the South 
 Platte River, 15 miles from the foot of 
 the Rocky Mountains, 5,000 feet above 
 the sea. The site of the city occupies 
 a series of plateaus rising in steps by 
 gentle and slight ascents from the river. 
 It faces the great mountain-chain. The 
 view from the city and its vicinity is 
 
 * The white-covered emigrant wagons aro so 
 called. 
 
Denver.] 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO DENVER, ETC., ROUTE XVII. 
 
 [Greeley. 
 
 grand in the extreme. Through the 
 clear mountain atmosphere may be seen 
 Pike's and Long's Peaks, and the snow- 
 capped range extending more than 200 
 miles, its rich purple streaked with daz- 
 zling white, and here and there draped in 
 soft, transparent haze. 
 
 Denver is the commercial centre of Colo- 
 rado ; it closely resembles Springfield, Mas- 
 sachusetts. The city is compactly built, 
 and its rows of handsome brick houses, 
 fine hotels, banks, theatres, residences, 
 and school-buildings, fill the stranger with 
 wonder ; for the first settlement was only 
 made in 1858, and the municipal govern- 
 ment was not organized until the winter 
 of 1859. All the offices of the territorial 
 government, surveyor-general's and land- 
 offices, the headquarters of the military 
 district, and the depots of arms and sup- 
 plies, are located here. 
 
 The principal buildings are the Colorado 
 Seminary, costing $20,000; eight church- 
 es costing from $5,000 to $2-1,000 each ; 
 a United Stales Branch Mint, costing 
 $75,000, and a Roman Catholic Academy. 
 There are also three private and two 
 public schools, six banks, and three 
 newspapers, one of which, the Rocky 
 Mountain Herald, ably conducted by O. 
 J. Goldrick, has the largest circulation 
 throughout the Territories of any paper 
 published between Omaha and San Fran- 
 cisco. Manufactories are not yet very 
 extensive, but are increasing in impor- 
 tance. The gross sales of merchandise at 
 Denver for the year 1870 amounted to 
 over $11,000,000, and it is claimed that 
 there is now no finer market than this 
 in the West for all classes of goods, 
 wines, etc. 
 
 Various lines of best Concord coaches 
 run daily between Denver and the twenty 
 county towns of the territory, in connec- 
 tion with the five lines of railway now 
 running in and out of Denver. Of these 
 towns, the more important ones are: 
 Central, 35 miles west ; Georgetown, 45 
 miles west; Pueblo, 100 miles south; 
 Trinidad, 150 miles south ; Boulder, 27 
 miles northwest; Golden, 15 miles west; 
 Greeley, 50 miles north ; Fairplay, 100 
 miles southwest; and Canon City, 120 
 miles southwest. Five railways diverge 
 from Denver: the Denver Pacific, via 
 Cheyenne and Omaha, to both the Atlantic 
 
 and Pacific coasts ; the Kansas Pacific, 
 via Kansas City, to the East ; the Colorado 
 Central to the mountain-mines, via Golden 
 City ; the Boulder Valley to the north- 
 western mines, via Boulder City ; and the 
 Denver & Rio Grande (narrow gauge), 
 now completed to Pueblo, 100 miles from 
 Denver, and will be extended southward 
 to a connection with the Southern Pacific 
 Railway across the continent. 
 
 This is the point of departure of the 
 Southern Overland Mail and Express Com- 
 pany's line of coaches for Pueblo, Trini- 
 dad, Las Vegas, Santa Fe, and all points 
 in New Mexico, Arizona, Chihuahua, 
 Sonora, and the far Southwest. 
 
 Taking the comfortable coaches of the 
 Denver Pacific Railway we regretfully 
 leave Denver behind and dash over the 
 rich valley of the Platte, catching a 
 glimpse of Golden City, 14 miles to the 
 left, under the mountains. After riding 
 48 miles through this beautiful country, 
 following the course of the river and 
 passing the small stations of Hughes and 
 Johnson, and the numerous ranches which 
 are springing up on each side of the track, 
 we cross the river by a trestle-bridge, 
 about 1,000 feet in length. 
 
 Erasg, Col. (601 miles), was for 
 some months the terminus of the road. 
 It is prettily situated, and will probably 
 become an important place, as the Big 
 and Little Tlwmpson Valleys must of ne- 
 cessity become tributary to it. 
 
 Cla-eeley, C©5. (065 miles), to the 
 left of the Platte River, but still in sight 
 of the cottonwood-trees upon its banks, 
 is one of the most wonderful instances of 
 sudden yet permanent growth to be 
 found in the West. It was settled on the 
 25th of April, 18*70, by a colony headed 
 by Mr. N. C. Meeker, formerly agri- 
 cultural editor of the New York Tribune, 
 and in a little over three months num- 
 bered 250 houses and 1,200 inhabit- 
 ants as permanent residents. It is situ- 
 ated in the valley bounded by the Cache 
 d la Poudre River and the Platte River. 
 It is supplied with water through a canal 
 from the Cache d la Poudre River, 12 
 miles distant, and now has churches, 
 stores, school-houses, a weekly paper, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 The Cache d la Poudre is crossed soon 
 after leaving the town. It is a clear 
 93 
 
Cheyenne.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 mountain-stream, rising near Long's Peak, 
 and traversing a valley so rich that for. 
 CO miles the farms upon its banks are 
 contiguous. The road here leaves the 
 rich bottom-land and crosses over a 
 part of the tract known as the Great 
 American Desert, and, until reaching 
 Cheyenne, passes through a country en- 
 tirely destitute of timber and water. The 
 only stopping-places are Pierce, Carr, 
 and Summit Siding, the first two estab- 
 lished by the company as water stations, 
 and the latter being merely a side-track. 
 For 14 miles before reaching Pierce the 
 road runs between " dog villages," with 
 their regular streets, curious houses, and 
 still more curious inhabitants, prairie- 
 dogs, owls, and rattlesnakes, living in 
 harmony in the same habitation. Near 
 Carr's is llic Natural Fort, which is a 
 mass of sandstone about 800 feet in 
 length and from 10 to 12 feet high. It 
 has been worn by the action of the 
 weather until it looks like a ruined for- 
 tress. 
 
 Ssommiit Siding", Col. (709 
 miles), marks the boundary between 
 Colorado and Wyoming, and here we 
 lose sight of the Rocky Mountains, which 
 we have seen on the west since leaving 
 Denver, and the Black Hills, 70 miles 
 distant, come in view. 
 
 Claeyemme, Wy. (719 miles), was 
 settled in 1867, when the Union Pacific 
 Railway, with which the Denver Pacific 
 connects here, first reached it in its 
 westward progress. This has always 
 been a point of some importance. Pre- 
 vious to the opening of the Denver Pa- 
 cific all the freight and passenger travel 
 to and from Colorado helped to increase 
 the business of this place. To the tour- 
 ist, looking at the pleasant cottages en- 
 closed with neat fences, the substantial 
 brick and stone business houses, and 
 the air of life and industry, it seems 
 wonderful that in 1867 this was a wild 
 region without inhabitants, until the 
 great civilizing influence of the railroad 
 brought it into existence, and it was ap- 
 propriately called the-Magic City, so rapid 
 was it growth. Like all Western towns, 
 it had even more than its share of roughs, 
 which more than once called for the 
 strong arm of the " Vigilance Commit- 
 tee ; " but dance and gambling houses 
 94 
 
 have had their day, and peace and quiet 
 reign supreme. The town has a popu- 
 lation of about 2,000. All branches of 
 trade are carried on. Churches ha' 
 built, schools established, and Chayenne 
 can claim to be as orderly as any town 
 west of the Missouri. The Union Pacific 
 Railway has here an extensive round- 
 house and shops in course of erection. 
 When the terminus of the road was at 
 this place a population of 5,000 was 
 claimed, but, as the road moved, many 
 went with it. 
 
 Thirty-two miles northwest is an im- 
 mense deposit of iron ore which assays 
 80 to 90 per cent. The erection of iron- 
 works is looked for at this point. The 
 mail and passengers for Fort Laramie, a 
 military post of some importance, 83 miles 
 northwest, leave the railway here. Dur- 
 ing the days of emigrant travel through 
 the South Pass, which lies west of Fort 
 Laramie, it was a recruiting station where 
 supplies could be obtained, cattle rested, 
 and a new start taken for the Pacific — • 
 almost a half-way house. 
 
 Cheyenne is fortunate in one respect, 
 at least, having an abundance of good 
 coal in easy reach by the Denver 
 Pacific, and plentv of pine-wood in the 
 Black Hills. 
 
 ROUTE XVIII. 
 
 OMAHA TO SAX FRANCISCO. 
 
 Via Union Pacific, Centra/ Pacific, anil HV.tf- 
 em Pacific Railways. {Time, 4 (toys, 9 hrs. 
 —Fare, $H>0. 
 
 Stations. — Union Pari fir Railway. — 
 Omaha to Gilmore, 10 miles; Papillon, 15; 
 Elkhorn, 29; Valley, 35; Fremont (con- 
 nects with Sioux City & Pacilic Railway 
 and with Fremont & Elkhorn Valley Rail- 
 way), 47 ; Ketchum, 54 ; North Lend, 62 ; 
 Schuyler, 76 ; Cooper, 84 ; Columbus, 92 ; 
 Jackson, 99; Silver Creek, 109; Clark's 
 121; Lone Tree, 132; Chapman's, 142; 
 Grand Island, 154; Pawnee, 162; Wood 
 River, 172; Gibbon, 183; Kearney, L91; 
 Stevenson, 201; Elm Creek, 212; Over- 
 ton, 221 ; Plum Creek, 230; Coyote. 240; 
 Willow Island, 260; Warren, 260; Brady 
 Island, 268; McPherson, 277; North 
 Platte, 291 ; Nichols, 299 ; O'Fallon's, 30?; 
 Alkali, 322 ; Roscoe, 332 ; Ogalalla, 3-11 ; 
 
Stations.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIIL 
 
 [Omaha. 
 
 Bmle, 351 ; Big Spring, 361 ; Julesburg, 
 377; Chappell, 387; Lodge Pole, 397; 
 Colton, 408; Sidney, 414; Brownson, 
 423 ; Potter, 433 ; Bennett, 442 ; Ante- 
 lope, 451 ; Bushnell, 463 ; Pine Bluffs, 
 473; Egbert, 484; Hillsdale, 496; Ar- 
 cher, 508 ; Cheyenne, 516 ; Hazard, 523 ; 
 Otto, 531 ; Granite Canyon, 536 ; Buford, 
 542 ; Sherman, 549 ; Harney, 55S ; Red 
 Buttes, 564 ; Fort Saunders, 570 ; Lara- 
 mie, 573 ; Howell's, 581 ; Wyoming, 587 ; 
 Cooper's Lake, 602; Lookout, 606; 
 Miser, 614; Rock Creek, 623; Como, 
 638 ; Medicine Bow, 645 ; Carbon, 656 ; 
 Simpson, 662; Percy, 669; Dana, 675; 
 St. Mary's, 680; Walcott's, 688; Fort 
 Steele, 696 ; Grenville, 704 ; Rawlings, 
 709 ; Separation, 723 ; Creston, 737 ; 
 Washakie, 752 ; Red Desert, 761 ; Table 
 Rock, 775 ; Bitter Creek, 785 ; Black 
 Buttes, 794; Hallville, 798; Point of 
 Rocks, 805 ; Salt Wells, 817 ; Van Dykes, 
 828 ; Rock Springs, 831 ; Green River, 
 845 ; Bryan (connects with stages for 
 the Sweetwater Mining Region), 858 ; 
 Granger, 876 ; Church Buttes, 887 ; 
 Carter, 904; Bridger, 913; Piedmont, 
 928; Aspen, 937; Evanston, 955; 
 Alma, 957 ; Wahsatch, 966 ; Castle Rock, 
 975; Echo, 991 ; Weber, 1,007; Devil's 
 Gate, 1,019; Uintah, 1,024; Ogden (con- 
 nects with Utah Central and Central 
 Pacific Railways), 1,032. 
 
 Stations. — Central Pacific Railway. — 
 Corinne, 1,055 miles from Omaha ; Blue 
 Creek, 1,073 ; Promontory, 1,084; Rozel, 
 1,092; Lake, 1,100; Monument Point, 
 1,105; Kelton, 1,123; Matlin, 1,137; Ter- 
 race, 1,153 ; Bovine, 1,164 ; Lucin, 1,177 ; 
 Tecoma, 1,188; Montello, 1,197; Lorav, 
 1,206; Toano, 1,214; Pequop, 1,224; 
 Otego, 1,230 ; Independence, 1,236 ; 
 Moore's, 1,242; Cedar, 1,244; Wells, 
 1,250 ; Tulasco, 1,258 ; Deeth, 1,271 ; Hal- 
 leek, 1,284; Peko, 1,287; Osino, 1,297; 
 Elko, 1,307 ; Molccn, 1,319 ; Carlin, 1,330 ; 
 Palisade, 1,339 ; Cluro, 1,350 ; Beowawe, 
 1,358 ; Shoshone, 1,368 ; Argenta, 1,379 ; 
 Battle Mountain, 1,391; Side Track, 1,403 ; 
 Stone House, 1,410 ; Iron Point, 1,422 ; 
 Golconda, 1,434; Tule, 1,445; Winne- 
 mucca, 1,451 ; Rose Creek, 1,461 ; 
 Raspberry, 1,472; Mill Creek, 1,479; 
 Humboldt, 1,492 ; Rye Patch, 1,504 ; 
 Oreana, 1,514; Humboldt Bridge, 1,521 ; 
 Lovelock's, 1,525; Granite Point, 1,533; 
 
 Brown's, 1,541; White Plains, 1,553; 
 Mirage, 1,560; Hot Springs, 1,568; 
 Desert, 1,578; Two-Mile Station, 1,585; 
 Wadsworth, 1,587; Clark's, 1,602 ; Camp 
 37, 1,614; Reno, 1,622; Verdi, 1,632; 
 Boca, 1,648; Truckee, 1,656; Strong's 
 Canyon, 1,668; Summit, 1,671 ; Cascade, 
 1,677; Tamarack, 1,681; Cisco, 1,684; 
 Emigrant Gap, 1,692 ; Blue Canyon, 
 1,698; China Ranch, 1,700; Shady Run, 
 1,702; Alta, 1,707; Dutch Flat, 1,709; 
 Gold Run, 1,712; Colfax, 1,722; Clipper 
 Gap, 1,733; Auburn, 1,740; Newcastle, 
 1,745 ; Pino, 1,750 ; Rocklin, 1,754 ; Junc- 
 tion (connects with Oregon Division), 
 1,758 ; Antelope, 1,761 ; Arcade, 1,768 ; 
 American R. Bridge, 1,769 ; Sacramento, 
 1,775. 
 
 Stations. — Western Pacific Railway. — ■ 
 Brighton, 1,780 miles ; Florin, 1,784 ; Elk 
 Grove, 1,791; Cosumnes, 1,794; Gait, 
 1,802 ; Mokelumne, 1,810 ; Stockton, 
 1,823 ; Wilson's, 1,831 ; Banta's, 1,839 ; 
 Ellis, 1,844; Midway, 1,850; Altamont, 
 1,858; Livermore, 1,866; Pleasanton, 
 1,872; Niles, 1,884; Decota, 1,886; Lo- 
 renzo, 1,895 ; San Leandro, 1,899 ; Al- 
 meda, 1,907; Oakland, 1,910; San Fran- 
 cisco (connects with steamships for prin- 
 cipal ports in China, Japan, Australia, 
 Sandwich Islands, and New Zealand, also 
 for ports on the western coast of the 
 United States), 1,914. 
 
 Omalija (414 miles from Chicago), 
 the principal city between Chicago and 
 the Pacific, is destined to be one of the 
 largest in the West. The site is a 
 plateau rising from the river westward to 
 the bluffs, and the city presents a fine ap- 
 pearance to the traveller crossing the 
 wide Missouri Valley from the eastward. 
 The hills on the west command a splendid 
 view of Council Bluffs on the east, the 
 wide Missouri River for miles north and 
 south, and an extensive stretch of wide, 
 undulating prairie covered with rich farms 
 on the west. 
 
 The situation of Omaha, commanding 
 for it an extensive trade with the West, 
 has caused its almost unprecedented 
 growth, from a population of 1,883 in 
 1860, to that of 18,000 shown by the late 
 census. 
 
 There are a number of first-class hotels, 
 but, to meet the wants of the public at 
 this great central point of the continent, 
 95 
 
Omaha.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Elkhokn. 
 
 a handsome five-story hotel vras erected 
 recently at a cost of $200,000. 
 
 The bridge across the Missouri, one 
 of the finest structures of the kind in the 
 country, is just finished, and affords un- 
 broken railway connection from ocean to 
 ocean. It was built by the Union Pacific 
 Company, and cost over a million dol- 
 lars. It is a magnificent structure of 
 iron, 60 feet above high- water mark, and 
 has, besides a railroad-track, a street- 
 car and wagon-way. 
 
 There are in Omaha 17 church edifices, 
 some of which are very handsome. 
 
 The high-school house in course of 
 erection at a cost of $200,000, and the 
 brick buildings recently erected in differ- 
 ent parts of the city as graded schools, 
 are all of the first order. 
 
 The shops of the Union Pacific Rail- 
 way, the new smelting-works for refin- 
 ing silver-ore from the mountains, iron- 
 works, and manufactories of various 
 kinds, give employment to many me- 
 chanics and laborers ; while the trade 
 of the Western mines and country ad- 
 jacent to the connecting railroads sup- 
 ports a large wholesale trade. 
 
 During the year 1870, the improve- 
 ments, public and private, footed up to 
 nearly a million dollars. The business 
 of the five banks exceeds that of many 
 cities of three times the population. 
 Travellers from the East will find Omaha 
 an excellent place to stay at for a day, 
 and witness the life and activity which 
 prevail in the growing cities of the 
 West. 
 
 Omaha is the great central railroad 
 city on the Missouri. The Chicago, 
 Ilock Island <£• Pacific, Chicago & North- 
 western, and Burlington & Missouri, from 
 the east, Kansas City, St. Joseph d- Coun- 
 cil Bluffs from the south, the Union Pa- 
 cific from the west, and the Omaha & 
 Northwestern and Omaha d> Southwest- 
 ern Railways, connect here. The lat- 
 ter roads have been built and arc owned 
 by Omaha capitalists, each operating 
 25 miles, and extending their lines into 
 the rich agricultural districts of the 
 State. 
 
 From Omaha we commence our journey 
 on the Union Pacific Railway, seated in 
 one of the luxurious Pullman palacc- 
 06 
 
 cars with which every American traveller 
 is familiar. Passing the wooded hills, a 
 wide rolling prairie opens before us, with 
 fine farm-houses and groves of timber 
 about them. On our left is the belt of 
 forest along the bluffs of the Missouri 
 River, and we can hardly realize that 
 only a few years ago this country was 
 inhabited by the red-man, and that the 
 " tread of pioneers " had not been heard 
 west of the great tributary of the " Fa- 
 ther of Waters." 
 
 At ^wiSimoire, Neb. (10 miles), the 
 first station, we enter the Papillon Val- 
 ley and turn westward. Three miles be- 
 yond we pass a beautiful grove of timber, 
 where for years was the home of the 
 Omaha Indians, until they were removed 
 to their present reservation. 
 
 IPitpillom Station, Nel>. (15 
 miles), has a grist-mill, two stores, hotel, 
 etc., the nucleus of a Western town. 
 From here we have a fine rolling prairie 
 country, dotted with white farin-houses, 
 until we reach 
 
 EHklaorn, NeH>. (29 miles), a 
 station from which a large quantity of 
 grain is shipped. Two miles beyond we 
 pass through a cut in the bluffs, and the 
 beautiful valley of the Platte, through 
 which the road extends 400 miles, opens 
 to our sight. One cannot but be im- 
 pressed here with the first view of one of 
 the finest agricultural regions of the 
 world, destined to become the garden of 
 the West, and support a vast agricultural 
 and manufacturing population. 
 
 Entering the valley, we cross the Elk- 
 horn River on a substantial bridge, and 
 looking westward we see a grand expanse 
 of prairie, with bluffs on either side, 
 and everywhere signs of prosperity and 
 advancement. An enthusiastic corre- 
 spondent thus writes his first impres- 
 sions, on sighting the valley of the Flat to : 
 " Seen as it was by us upon one of the 
 most beautiful days which ever gladdened 
 Nature by unclouded sunlight, after hours 
 of a lowering sky and inclement weather, 
 it burst upon the view like a scene of 
 enchantment, as if some fairy hand lifted 
 the veil and spread before the observer 
 a grand, gigantic panorama. Upon the 
 south rolled the waters of the Platte, 
 broad and swift, while far upon either 
 side lifted the bluffs which border the 
 
Valley.] 
 
 OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Schuylek. 
 
 valley, and which are the great walls to 
 this garden of Nature. Vegetation was 
 in its most luxuriant stage, the green 
 plain stretched forth its emerald carpet 
 as far as the eye could reach, and yet it 
 was but the entrance to a tract 400 miles 
 in extent, the whole of which was equally 
 as grand and beautiful as this. From 
 the vast expanse in front the eye wan- 
 dered back again to the bluffs, and the 
 mind intuitively felt how fit a setting 
 were they for this radiant girdle on the 
 form of fair Nebraska. If one would 
 gain an idea of the stupendous character 
 of the works of Nature, let him visit the 
 mountains, the cataracts, and the colossal 
 structures the Great Architect has reared 
 in the Old World and the New. But look- 
 ing upon them moves one with wonder 
 and amazement, while this broad, level 
 tract, with its river gleaming in the sun- 
 light, its bosom decked with the loveliest 
 flowers, awakens adoi-ation and a delight 
 which one would wish might live for- 
 ever." 
 
 Valley, Nel>. (35 miles), is the 
 first station after leaving Elkhorn. It has 
 a hotel, a store, and a few other houses. 
 
 Fremont, Ptfeb. (47 miles), an 
 eating-station, is a place of about 2,000 
 inhabitants, which has grown very rapidly 
 since the building of the Union Pacific 
 Railway. An elevator near the depot 
 indicates that it is a grain-market, and 
 large quantities are shipped from this 
 point. From here the Sioux City & Pa- 
 cific Railway runs daily trains connecting 
 with the Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way, in Iowa, 26 miles above Council 
 Bluffs. This is also the initial point of 
 the Fremont & Elklwm Valley Railway, 
 extending northwesterly, 50 miles up the 
 Valley of the Elkhorn, and passing through 
 the town of West Point. All branches of 
 trade are well represented. Forty stores 
 of different kinds, several hotels, churches, 
 and school-buildings, a flourishing news- 
 paper, etc., evince thrift and enterprise. 
 
 IVortn Send, I*el>. (62 miles), 
 is a town recently commenced. It is sur- 
 rounded by a fine and well-settled fann- 
 ing country. The Platte River on our 
 left is here first approached, although we 
 have been travelling parallel with it for 
 Borne distance. The impression a tourist 
 will form of this stream will be controlled 
 5 
 
 somewhat by the stage of the water. At 
 high water it is an unbroken sheet from 
 bank to bank, from one to two miles 
 wide ; at low water a great bed of 
 quicksand blown about by the wind, with 
 here and there shallow streams. Numer- 
 ous well-wooded islands are scattered 
 along, and in winter the abundant red 
 cedars form a pleasing contrast with the 
 leafless cotton-woods. The value of this 
 stream to the country west of here 200 
 miles is yet to be understood. The 
 soil is rich, but the want of sufficient 
 rain prevents cultivation, and this de- 
 fect is to be overcome by irrigation, 
 which can be accomplished at slight 
 expense from a stream which has a 
 descent of seven feet to the mile. Wher- 
 ever irrigation has been tried in the 
 West, astonishing and certain crops have 
 been the result ; and all this great valley 
 to the west of us is yet to be rendered 
 productive by the waters of the much- 
 abused Platte River. 
 
 Schnyler, Net*. (76 miles), is a 
 town of only two years' growth, and con- 
 tains 500 inhabitants. Quite a colony 
 from Nova Scotia has settled near here 
 on homestead and railroad lands, and 
 is doing well. On the right of the main 
 track are the extensive cattle-yards from 
 which 50,000 head of Texas cattle were 
 shipped during the season of 1870. 
 
 Passing Schuyler we can look west- 
 ward along the lines of iron rails till 
 they converge to a point in the dim dis- 
 tance, and the row of telegraph-poles 
 fades from view. Along the railway for 
 some distance we have a view of the 
 overland emigrant road, now fast growing 
 up to grass. Over this great highway 
 has rolled that living tide which has 
 peopled the Pacific slope, developed her 
 mineral wealth, and built her cities. The 
 gold-hunters of Pike's Peak andCalifornia, 
 in their eager pursuit of wealth, have toiled 
 along this dusty road toward the setting 
 sun. The Mormons with ox-teams aud 
 hand-cai'ts have dragged along their weary 
 loads through mud and snow, looking for 
 a home, as they hoped, of peace and 
 plenty, to at last find an end of their 
 wanderings in the sterile valleys of Utah, 
 which by persistent toil they have in 
 some places made to blossom as a garden. 
 The evening camp-fire, the grazing cattle, 
 97 
 
Columbus.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Plum Crekk. 
 
 and the white covered wagons, drawn up 
 in a circle at night, are all things of the 
 past, and in their stead the iron horse 
 thunders along the plains, and wakes the 
 echoes in the hills. 
 
 Columbus, Neb. (92 miles), the 
 next stopping-place, is a town of about 
 1,000 people, destined to be one of some 
 importance. A bridge just built across 
 the Platte connects it with the settlers in 
 Butler County. A railway from South- 
 ern Nebraska will soon pass through 
 here, and westward up the valley of 
 the Loup ; while another to Sioux City 
 will furnish lumber direct from the 
 pine regions of Minnesota and Wiscon- 
 sin. A good supply of timber, excellent 
 water, and fine farming lands, make this 
 section one of the best in the State. 
 
 Fifteen miles northwest is the reserva- 
 tion of the Pawnee Indians, who now 
 number about 1,000. Their rich lands, 
 lying on the Loup Fork River, are divided 
 into farms. The game yearly becoming 
 less plenty, they find that their living 
 must be derived from the soil, and in 
 1870 they raised good crops of corn, 
 beans, etc. 
 
 Three miles west of Columbus we cross 
 the Loup five miles above its confluence 
 with the Platte, on a substantial bridge 
 1,500 feet long. 
 
 Silver Creel*, IV eb. (109 milos), 
 and Lone Tree, Neb. (132 miles), 
 are passenger stations, around which 
 stores and dwellings have been recently 
 built. Near the latter place the old emi- 
 grant road to Colorado crosses the Platte 
 at a point well known, years ago, as 
 Shinies Perry, and continues westward 
 on the south side. 
 
 CJrand Island, Neb. (154 
 miles), an eating-station, taking its name 
 from a large, well-timbered island in the 
 Platte, 60 miles long and 4 miles wide, 
 is a place of 800 inhabitants, which 
 has been entirely built up since the rail- 
 way was finished to this point in 1867. 
 It has a large steam-mill near the depot, 
 which turns out a hundred barrels of 
 flour per day. The farming country is 
 principally settled by Germans, who have 
 done much toward its improvement. 
 
 Wood Kivcr, Neb. (172 miles), 
 is a station near a stream of the same 
 name, which is crossed by the road. Here 
 98 
 
 the valley is very wide, and affordi 
 splendid grazing facilities. 
 
 Kearney, Neb. (191 miles), is a 
 station supplying the military post of the 
 same name on the opposite side of the 
 river, four miles away. Here the stream 
 is three miles wide, with numerous chan- 
 nels and Avooded islands. The flag on the 
 parade-ground can be seen in a clear day 
 above the timber of the river. The post 
 was established in 1848, and was for 
 years a point of great importance to the 
 overland emigrants, being the last place 
 cast of the mountains where supplies in 
 any quantity could be had ; but its busy 
 life has departed, and a few adobe* 
 buildings now mark the spot where a 
 great trade once flourished. One com- 
 pany of soldiers garrisons the fort. Here 
 is the point of prospective connection of 
 the Burlington <Sc Missouri Railway, now 
 built as far west as Lincoln, the capital of 
 Nebraska. Buffalo, which in countless 
 herds once roamed about the limits of 
 the military reservation, can still be 
 found in limited numbers within 25 miles. 
 
 Elm Crcclc, Neb. (212 miles), is 
 a small station near a well-wooded stream 
 of the same name. The country main- 
 tains the same general appearance, a 
 wide-spread valley covered in the spring 
 with a short growth of very nutritious 
 buffalo and grama grasses, a grazing- 
 ground for countless herds of cattle. 
 
 Plum Creel*:, Neb. (230 miles), 
 is a small station of a few houses. Here 
 for many years the Indians, in their semi- 
 annual excursions in pursuit of game, 
 crossed the Platte. About three miles 
 west of the station was the scene of the 
 " Plum Creek massacre'''' in 1868. A 
 roving band of Sioux tore up a rail and 
 threw a freight-train loaded with valuable 
 goods from the track, killing tho 
 engineer and fireman, the other em- 
 ployes escaping in the darkness. Day- 
 light disclosed a scene of wild riot and 
 plundering. Broken bales and boxes of 
 goods were scattered over the ground, 
 and after loading their ponies the savages 
 set fire to the cars and crossed the Platte, 
 going southward. But the avenger was 
 swiftly on their track. A company of 
 
 * This word is colloquially pronounced ns if 
 written "dobcy.*' Adobe is sun-dried brick. 
 
Willow Isl'd.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Ogalalla. 
 
 Pawnee scouts, then employed by the 
 Government in guarding the road, were 
 telegraphed to, and soon on their trail, 
 eager to take vengeance on their ancient 
 enemies. Some miles south of the river 
 they overtook the Sioux among the hills, 
 laden with their booty, and a short and 
 bloody conflict ensued. Next day sixteen 
 Sioux scalps were fluttering in the breeze 
 before the camp of the Pawnees, and the 
 departed spirits of that many of their 
 tribe were avenged. The writer will 
 never forget the rejoicings he witnessed 
 in that, camp, over the "heap-scalp." 
 Those e>periences have passed away, and 
 the Indians have ceased troubling the 
 road, and the strife between these two 
 tribes ended in peace. 
 
 Willow Island, Neu. (250 
 miles), and Brady island, IVca. 
 (268 miles), are small passenger stations. 
 
 lUcPherson, Neb. (27V miles), is 
 a supply-station for the fort of the. same 
 name, four miles away, on the other side 
 of the river. This post was built in 1863 
 for the protection of the emigrants, and 
 is now garrisoned by six companies of 
 troops. Large quantities of red-cedar 
 ties, telegraph-poles, and wood, have been 
 cut in the canoes near here for the use 
 of the railway, and a succession of bridges 
 built from island to island across the 
 numerous channels of the Platte. Just 
 below here the North and South Branches 
 of the Platte unite. At McPherson Sta- 
 tion a tract of several thousand acres Is 
 naturally irrigated from Pawnee Spring. 
 This was formerly a favorite camping 
 ground on account of the abundant grass 
 and good water. Thousands of tons of 
 hay are cut here for the military posts, 
 and points along the railway. 
 
 Ten miles farther we cross the North 
 Fork of the Platte on a bridge 3,000 feet 
 long, supported by cedar piles ; and two 
 miles bevond arrive at 
 
 North I»!atte, I¥el>. (291 miles), 
 where the railway company has a fine 
 hotel, round-house, and machine-shop for 
 repairs. Some good business houses and 
 neat cottages give the town a thrifty as- 
 pect. Here that often indefinite point 
 (when the rails were being laid from two 
 to five miles a-day), the " end of the 
 track," was located during the whiter of 
 1867, and the town presented a long line 
 
 of tents and board shanties — every other 
 one being a whiskey-shop, whose sole 
 capital was a gallon of "tarantula- 
 juice," half a dozen empty bottles of 
 "bitters," and a crowd of hang-dog 
 loafers, and low gamblers. The " roughs " 
 carried on their shooting and robbing 
 until the Vigilance Committee, the only 
 power they dreaded, visited merited 
 punishment on some of the ringleaders, 
 and as the road moved on they sought 
 new locations, and left a quiet and orderly 
 town behind. Between the town and the 
 South Platte Colonel Parke, the editor of 
 the North Platte Advertiser, and some oth- 
 ers have constructed an irrigating ditch, 
 which waters a large tract of land, and 
 has proved a decided success. This is the 
 shipping-point for large numbers of cattle 
 raised on natural grasses. 
 
 O'Fallon Station, New. (307 
 miles), takes its name from the bluffs in 
 plain view on the opposite side of the 
 river, and well known to the plains- 
 man a few years ago. Here the emigrant 
 passed through deep ravines, once the 
 dreaded lurking-place of the Indians, who 
 waited to surprise unprotected trains. Al- 
 kali begins to appear, and one can see in 
 a dry season the crystals glistening white 
 as snow in the ditches beside the track. 
 
 We have left behind the farming lands, 
 and enter a vast grazing country, which 
 extends to the base of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. These boundless prairies, covered 
 in summer and winter with nutritious 
 grasses, will furnish unlimited pasturage. 
 The mildness of the climate, and the 
 dryness and purity of the atmosphere, 
 render this country peculiarly adapted to 
 grazing. 
 
 Alkali, Nel>. (322 miles), is direct- 
 ly opposite the old stage-station of the 
 same name. The remains of the old sod 
 buildings and corrals where the ranch- 
 men braved the attacks of the savages 
 can in many places be seen ; but for a 
 hundred miles, where once the road was 
 lined with white-topped wagons, now not 
 a single white man is found. 
 
 Ogalalla, Hfel». (341 miles), is 
 near the old " California Crossing" of 
 the Platte and opposite where once stood 
 the well-known trading-post of Beauvais, 
 who was afterward United States peace 
 commissioner at Laramie. 
 
 99 
 
Bia Spuing.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Pine Bluffs. 
 
 Big Spring-, Nel>. (361 miles), 
 
 is named from a fine spring of water 
 which flows from the adjacent bluffs, and 
 has refreshed many a weary traveller. 
 Since leaving North Platte Station the 
 road has been near the bank of the 
 stream, and the tourist has had a full view 
 of the whole valley. 
 
 Julesuurg-, Ncl>. (311 miles), 
 was once famous as the " wickedest town 
 in America," and during the short stay 
 at the station one can hardly realize that 
 here once stood a town of 4,000 people. 
 After a growth of six weeks, twenty large 
 government and private warehouses were 
 erected, and goods for all points West 
 shipped in great quantities by teams. 
 Gambling and dance houses were abun- 
 dant, and some of the victims of the law- 
 lessness and crime of those days lie buried 
 on the hill north of the depot, where a 
 few boards mark their graves. When 
 the road reached Cheyenne, the portable 
 buildings were pulled down, and moved 
 away. Now, two depots and three other 
 houses indicate the spot, and the cactus 
 which once covered the ground is fast 
 spreading over the site of the " fastest " 
 city of the continent. 
 
 Three miles south, on the opposite 
 bank of the river, the white buildings of 
 Fort Sedgwick can be seen, now gar- 
 risoned by two companies of troops. 
 Llere, 200 miles from Denver by the old 
 wagon-road, was an important and busy 
 point before the railroad was built. 
 After passing Julesburg we leave the 
 river, which we have had in view for 350 
 miles, and turn northwesterly up the 
 valley of Lodge-Pole Creek. Herds of 
 antelope are seen feeding quietly on the 
 hills, and, except the prairie dogs, are 
 almost the only signs of animal life. 
 
 The Valley of Lodge-Pole Creek is about 
 an average of a mile and a-half in width. 
 The old road to Fort Laramie follows the 
 stream for some distance. 
 
 Sidney, Hfcb. (414 miles), is the 
 largest place between North Platte and 
 Cheyenne. Here are a round-house, re- 
 pair-shops, a lar^e hotel and eating-house, 
 a small military post, several stores, and 
 other business-houses. The Indians were 
 once very troublesome in this neighbor- 
 hood, and the tourist may notice while 
 travelling with Mr. CaLtooi), a popular 
 100 
 
 passenger conductor on the western 
 division, that when he lifts his hat a bare 
 spot is displayed which he says luir 
 " invigorator" does not affect. While 
 fishing in the creek only half a mile from 
 the station, a band of Indians, who had 
 no doubt been watching him from the 
 hills, came suddenly upon him, shooting 
 him in several places with arrows, se- 
 curing his scalp, and leaving him for 
 dead. After several months he finally 
 recovered, but during a long personal 
 acquaintance the writer never heard him 
 express a wish to try it a second time. 
 
 The dry climate and rich pasturage 
 here have proved very favorable for sheep- 
 raising, which promises to be an im- 
 portant feature on the high table-lands 
 of Western Nebraska. Moore & Brother 
 have, at Sidney, 8,000 sheep, which have 
 proved a profitable investment. 
 
 Leaving Sidney, the bluffs on the right 
 are a poor quality of limestone. Just 
 before passing a high rocky point we 
 catch the first glimpse of scrubby pines 
 growing among the rocks. 
 
 l*otter, JVel>. (433 miles), the next 
 stopping-place, is an unimportant station, 
 at an elevation of 4,3*75 feet. During the 
 past 24 hours our ascent has been so 
 gradual that we can scarcely realize that 
 we are almost 2,500 feet higher than 
 Omaha. 
 
 Antelope, Nel>. (451 miles), con- 
 sists of a station-house, water-tank, and 
 section-house, and the country possesses 
 the same features displayed for the last 
 50 miles. Some time before reaching the 
 next station — 
 
 I»ine SSI nil's. Hfen. (473 miles)— 
 we get a view of the rocky hills on the left, 
 with straggling pines from which it takes 
 its name. Here large quantities of pine- 
 wood have been delivered to the railroad 
 company, and this station will yet be one 
 of some importance when stock-raising 
 is carried on extensively. The broad 
 valley to the northwest, the high per- 
 pendicular rocks, with the creek mean- 
 dering at their base, present a pleasing 
 picture, which we have a few minutes to 
 look upon while the train stops tor water. 
 
 Before the railroad was imilt, an adven- 
 turous ranchman put up a stone-house 
 here, and surrounded it with a stockade, 
 where travellers felt comparatively safe 
 
IIillsdale.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Sherman. 
 
 from Indian attacks. In this locality 
 used to be the favorite hunting-grounds of 
 the Chevennes during the summer. 
 
 llilisclale, Wy. (496 miles), is 
 reached with ease, but the grade is very 
 perceptible. The road-bed consists en- 
 tirely of gravel, and is so substantial that 
 it needs but little repairs in a country 
 where rain is limited. 
 
 Just before reaching Archer we have 
 a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, 
 whose tops are covered with eternal 
 snows. The traveller may mistake them 
 for clouds ; but, as he ascends, the dark 
 belt of pines just below the snow-line 
 will dispel the illusion. The first view 
 of the great chain of mountains, which 
 have been known to us since the days of 
 boyhood geography, is at once grand and 
 beautiful. [See chapter on Colorado.] 
 
 As the tourist scans this mountain- 
 range, extending southward, Long's Peak, 
 14,000 feet high, is plainly visible, and the 
 Spanish Peals are in the dim distance. 
 
 Away to the north as far as the eye 
 can reach is seen the dark line of the 
 Black Hills, very appropriately named, 
 for the rocks and pines half-way down 
 their sides give them a sombre aspect. 
 From Archer the track has a descending 
 grade, and through several cuts we reach 
 the plain, with Cheyenne, the " Magic 
 City," in full view. Just before reaching 
 the town the Denver Pacific Railroad ia 
 seen on the left, extending southward. 
 
 CSaeyerane, Wy. (516 miles, eleva- 
 tion 5,931 feet), was unknown before the 
 building of the Union Pacific, which 
 reached this point in 1867. It has been 
 fully described in Roote XVII. (See page 
 94.) Leaving Cheyenne, the train crosses 
 Crow Creek, a mile west of the town, and 
 from this point we get a good view of 
 Fort D. A. Russell, three miles north. 
 Large amounts of government freight 
 are distributed from this post, which is 
 garrisoned by eight companies of troops. 
 
 Hazard, Wy. (523 miles), is an 
 unimportant point. During the last six 
 miles the grade has been 60 feet to the 
 mile, and from Cheyenne to the summit 
 averages nearly 90. After leaving this 
 station the rugged mountain scenery is 
 gradually approached, and looking back 
 we get a good view of Cheyenne, the 
 fort, and the great plain northward. 
 
 Approaching Granite Canon, the rise 
 is very perceptible, and the heavy gi - ading 
 through the solid rock is first met with. 
 The elevation reached is 1,367 feet above 
 Cheyenne. Here, while the road wa3 
 building, was quite a village of boarding- 
 houses, stores, blacksmiths' shops, etc., 
 which have entirely disappeared, leaving 
 a few tumble-down fireplaces to mark the 
 spot. Granite is the main formation, with 
 occasional outcroppings of limestone, and 
 here and there streaks of quartz extend- 
 ing from the gold-regions of Colorado. 
 Snow-fences and walls of rock become 
 frequent along the track, and afford sub- 
 stantial protection from the drifting snow 
 of winter. Although the fall of snow here 
 never exceeds six inches, still the high 
 winds which prevail at that season would 
 drift it into the cuts, which would seri- 
 ously obstruct travel. The extensive de- 
 fences erected by the Central and Union 
 Pacific Railways proved effectual in keep- 
 ing the long line clear during the winter 
 of 1870, but, in 1871-'72, "blockades" 
 were numerous and the suffering serious. 
 Many miles of sheds were built during the 
 past summer, and no further trouble is 
 apprehended. After passing the last sta- 
 tion the road continues to ascend ; wind- 
 ing its way among the hills until reaching 
 Buford, a side-track, we gain an altitude 
 from which we have a fine view north and 
 south. The mountain-peaks away to the 
 south are more plainly visible, and on a 
 clear day the outlines of Pike's Peak 
 nearly 300 miles off, are in view. On the 
 right, wild, rugged mountains of granite 
 rocks, which seem to have been piled here 
 by some great convulsion of Nature, meet 
 the eye, with pines, whose green foliage 
 relieves the sombre aspect, growing in 
 the clefts almost to their summits. 
 
 SSterinsm, "Wy. (549 miles, eleva- 
 tion 8,235 feet), is the most elevated 
 railroad station in the world, and pos- 
 sesses many attractions for the tourist. 
 Those wishing for clear mountain-air, 
 fine trout-fishing, and a wide field for 
 botanical study, will find them here. 
 Tourists should spend a day or two at 
 Sherman. At Virginia Dale, a beautifully 
 picturesque spot, 12 miles south of the 
 station, was an old stage-station, which has 
 recently been bought by a person who 
 intends making a large stock ranche of 
 1.01 
 
Red Buttes.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Laramie. 
 
 it. The protection afforded in winter, 
 and rich pasturage, make it very desira- 
 ble for that business. Abundance of 
 excellent speckled trout are found in the 
 creek, and the Cache d la Pondre, of which 
 it is a tributary. Creighton & Alsop, 
 the great cattle-men of the plains, have 
 thousands of cattle in this region, and 
 during the winter ship large numbers 
 East. The beef fed on this mountain- 
 grass has a peculiarly rich flavor, and is 
 said to be much better than that fed on 
 grain. These valleys will yet bo covered 
 with fields of grain, and the hills with 
 herds of cattle. After leaving Sherman, 
 we commence a descent toward the Lara- 
 mie Plains, and a mile from the station 
 we pass Meed's Hock, a massive pile of 
 granite on the right of the track, well- 
 known as a landmark to all old plainsmen. 
 
 Dale Creek Bridge is the first object of 
 notice, being a fine structure C50 feet 
 long, and 125 feet above a tiny stream 
 which winds down the rocky gorge. The 
 bridge is well built, and stayed with wire 
 cables anchored in the rock. Passing 
 through deep rock-cuts which rise high 
 up on our right, with straggling pines 
 and wild-flowers in the ravines, we emerge 
 from the hills and Laramie Plain is 
 spread out before us, a grand and beauti- 
 ful sight. On the west, 20 miles away, 
 rise the lofty mountains whose tops we 
 could see east of Cheyenne ; but here we 
 have a full view of them as they rise from 
 the plain. The dark shade for some 
 distance up their sides is the growth 
 of pines which has furnished large 
 quantities of ties and telegraph poles. 
 Directly west the evening sun shining on 
 a thread of silver along the plains to the 
 north marks the course of the Laramie 
 River from a gorge of the mountains, as 
 it takes its course along the valley, and 
 here we get an idea of this vast table- 
 land, over 7,000 feet above the sea, walled 
 in by ranges of mountains on cither side, 
 and stretching northward till the Medi- 
 cine Bow Mountains, 80 miles away, 
 bound the view. 
 
 E6e«l IB titles, Wy. (504 miles), 
 the first station on the plains, is named 
 from red sandstone hummocks, rising 50 
 to 75 feet high. 
 
 fr'ort Saunders, Wy. (570 
 miles), a military post, is in sight for some 
 102 
 
 distance, and a side-track here affords 
 convenience for receiving stores. This 
 post, established in 18GG, is very beauti- 
 fully situated near the Laramie River. 
 Quite a large field adjoining has been 
 fenced in, and excellent crops of vege- 
 tables raised, by the aid of irrigation, for 
 the use of the soldiers. 
 
 ]L:ix*:snaie, Wy. (573 miles, eleva- 
 tion 7,123 feet), is a very pleasant town, 
 built up entirely since the advent of the 
 railroad. Here the company has erected 
 a hotel, round-house, and machine-shops, 
 giving employment to a large number of 
 men. There is a delightful chance during 
 the summer to spend a few weeks here 
 away from the heat and dust of the city. 
 Hunting, fishing, riding, rambling among 
 the Black Hills, or excursions to the 
 mountains, and climbing to the snowy 
 line in a warm day, all afford agreeable 
 and healthy excitement. A good appetite 
 is one of the consequences, and under a 
 blanket covering the nights are passed in 
 refreshing sleep. 
 
 The AVtfi Park, which lies directly 
 west of here, promises when thoroughly 
 prospected to prove a rich mineral region. 
 Several parties during 1869 found gold 
 there in paying quantities, but, owing to 
 Indian troubles, the work was deserted 
 after several miners had been killed. 
 When these mines are worked, as they 
 soon will be, it is believed by old miners 
 that they will prove very profitable, and, 
 together with the lumbering interests, 
 cannot fail in time to aid materially in 
 building up Laramie. A fine spring in 
 the Black Hills, from which a ditch has 
 been dug, furnishes an abundance of 
 clear cold water, running through the 
 principal streets. A prominent feature 
 of Laramie is its neat churches. The 
 Laramie Sentinel is a lively and well-edit- 
 ed newspaper. On the left after leaving 
 the town, and near the crossing of the 
 river, fenced fields and claim-shanties at- 
 tract attention, indicating that agricul- 
 ture has made a start on. these plains. 
 The land when ploughed looks rich and 
 inviting. Our route now is through a 
 valley 30 miles wide with mountains on 
 either side. Fourteen miles from the 
 last station, crossing the Little Laramie 
 Rim r, which rises in the mountains to 
 the west, we come to 
 
Wyoming.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Rawling. 
 
 Wyoming 1 , Wy. (587 miles), an 
 unimportant water and telegraph station. 
 The same description will apply to Look- 
 out and Miser: At the latter we are 
 at an elevation of 6,827 feet, and from 
 there begin again to ascend as we go 
 west. Sage-bush covers the barren red- 
 dish soil, and one cannot help thinking 
 of the oft-repeated question, " What was 
 this country made for ? " " Mark Twain " 
 has given the only answer when he said, 
 " Why, to build a Pacific Railroad." 
 AVhat is hidden in the soil of this sterile 
 country is thus far unknown. 
 
 Hock Creel*, Wy. (623 miles), 
 and Como, Wy. (038 miles), are tele- 
 graph-stations, the latter having an in- 
 creased altitude of about 400 feet over 
 the former, and near it is a small lake 
 where is found a reptile well known 
 to naturalists (Siredon lichenoides), but 
 called "devil-fish" here. It has the 
 head and tail of a cat-fish, with four legs 
 like a large lizard. Notwithstanding the 
 Munchausen stories as to its size, it is 
 usually about 10 inches in length. 
 
 Medicine ISow, Wy. (645 
 miles), the next station, is named from a 
 stream which takes its rise in the pine- 
 forests of the mountains, and, like all 
 these mountain-streams, was of vast 
 benefit for floating ties to the railroad 
 during its construction. As the pine- 
 forests of the Eastern States are con- 
 sumed and cut away, these mountain- 
 regions will furnish the next supply, and 
 the camp of the Maine lumbermen may 
 be moved to the wild mountain-regions of 
 the West. 
 
 Carbon, "Wy. (656 miles), at an 
 elevation of 7,008 feet, has become of 
 8ome importance from the coal-mines 
 which have been opened here, giving em- 
 ployment to a large number of men, and 
 building up quite a village. One mine was 
 opened alongside of the track, and large 
 quantities of coal were being taken out 
 both for the use of the road and shipment 
 as far east as Omaha, when it caught 
 fire, and the company was compelled to 
 open it in another place ; the families liv- 
 ing over the mine, considering it safer 
 to live in some other locality, changed 
 places too. From 
 
 Percy, Wy. (069 miles), we have 
 a fine view of Elk Mountain, about 6 
 
 miles south, which is the most promi- 
 nent feature in the landscape. This is one 
 of the peaks of the Medicine Bow 
 Mountains, rising above the snow, and 
 covered for some distance up its sides 
 with forests of pine-timber. Game is 
 found here in greater abundance than at 
 any other point on the road. The Utes 
 have made continual trouble with pros- 
 pectors in this region, and there is much 
 yet to be learned of its condition and 
 value. Near 
 
 §4. Mary's, Wy. (680 miles), 
 the country becomes more rugged and 
 wild, and there are abundant evidences 
 that the whole valley was once the 
 bed of a vast body of water. Nothing 
 flourishes on the uplands but sage- 
 brush, while Jack rabbits and horned 
 toads with genuine tails are almost the 
 only specimens of animal life which the 
 traveller can sec. Fort Fred Steele is 
 built at the crossing of the North Platte, 
 the same stream crossed before on a long 
 bridge 290 miles from Omaha. There it 
 was a wide, shallow stream, with beds 
 of shifting quicksand. Here the clear 
 waters flow over a pebbly bed, and are 
 as cool as can be desired in the hot days 
 of July, coming as they do directly from 
 the snows of the mountains. A few trees 
 along the stream afford some relief after 
 such a barren stretch. The post is sub- 
 stantially built of pine-logs, and stands in 
 a pleasant location. Two miles beyond are 
 a few chimneys and the remains of some 
 old adobe buildings where once stood the 
 town of Benton on an alkali plain, and 
 numbered at one time, in the summer of 
 1868, 2,000 persons, among whom whis- 
 key-sellers and gamblers were plenty, but, 
 as the road passed on, the people went 
 with it, and nothing remains. 
 
 l&awling-, Wy. (709 miles), an 
 eating-station, is a point where the rail- 
 way has a round-house and machine- 
 shops, with an hotel, etc. The whole 
 country is rough and broken, the ground 
 at times white with alkali, the water 
 brackish, and nothing to induce an ex- 
 tended stay. Near here some gold-mines 
 have been worked, and a kind of mineral 
 paint is found in large quantities. Pass- 
 ing between high blurts, we come to 
 Separation, 13 miles beyond, a small tele- 
 graph-station, and at 
 
 103 
 
Creston.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Green River Station. 
 
 Crestoa, Wy. (73V miles), we ar- 
 rive at the dividing ridge of the conti- 
 nent, from which waters flow each way, 
 eastward to the Atlantic, and westward 
 to the Pacific. The advent of the iron 
 rails was the occasion of a celebration at 
 this point, when the long slope from the 
 eastward had been climbed, and the de- 
 scent to the Pacific was before the 
 builders of the great highway. 
 
 Washakie and Itctl I>esert 
 are unimportant stations on the barren 
 alkali plains. 
 
 Tabic Roclc, Wy. (775 miles), 
 is named from a level stretch of bluffs ex- 
 tending for miles along the side of the 
 road. Here there was much labor in 
 building the railway, where cuts and 
 fillings continually succeed each other. 
 
 When the road was being constructed 
 it was necessary to have a special water- 
 train to supply the workmen and the 
 engines, while carrying forward the work 
 through this section. 
 
 At Hitter Creek, Wy. (785 
 miles), the company has erected a round- 
 house and repair-shops. Prom here we 
 descend the littler Creek Valley, along a 
 stream so strongly impregnated with al- 
 kali that freighters often suffered severely 
 from their cattle drinking the water. The 
 old stage-road is marked by telegraph- 
 poles. 
 
 We are now reaching the end of the 
 vast wilderness through which we have 
 been passing for many hours. The 
 waters of Bitter Creek are carried on to 
 Green River, reaching which, the monot- 
 ony gradually gives way to more pleasant 
 scenes. The water is fresher and more 
 plentiful, and the verdure is bright or. 
 " But," says a traveller, " that which is 
 most attractive is the novel and imposing 
 forms of architecture that Nature has left 
 to mark the history upon these still open 
 plains. Long, wide troughs, as of departed 
 rivers ; long level embankments, as of 
 railroad tracks or endless fortifications, 
 huge, quaint hills, suddenly rising from 
 the plain, bearing fantastic shapes ; great 
 square mounds of rock and earth, half- 
 formed, hall-broken pyramids — it would 
 seem as if a generation of giants had 
 built and buried here, and left their work 
 to awe and bumble a puny succession. 
 The Black, the Pilot and the Church 
 104 
 
 Buttcs are among the more celebrated of 
 these huge monumental mountains stand- 
 ing on the level plain; but the railway 
 track passes out of sight of them all ex- 
 cept the Church Butte, which, seen 
 under favorable lights, imposes on the 
 imagination like a grand old cathedral 
 going into decay, quaint in its crumbling 
 ornaments, majestic in its height and 
 breadth. They seem, like the more 
 numerous and fantastic illustrations of 
 Nature's frolicsome art in Southern 
 Colorado, to be the remains of granite 
 hills that wind and water, and especially 
 the sand whirlpools which march in 
 lordly force through the air — literally 
 moving mountains — have left to hint 
 the past, and tell the story of their own 
 achievements. Not unfitly, there as here, 
 they have won the title of " Monuments 
 to the Gods."* 
 
 ISlack IBnttes, Wy. (794 
 miles), is a coaling-station, where coal of 
 superior quality is found in abundance 
 in veins 7 to 10 feet in thickness. This 
 great coal-region, besides furnishing fuel 
 for the road, is the source which supplies 
 all towns along the Eastern Platte Valley 
 and Omaha, and the facilities for furnish- 
 ing it aids materially in the settling of 
 the country. 
 
 l»oiMt of ISoeks, Wy. (805 
 miles), Salt Wells (818 miles), and 
 l&ock SpriBBgfs (832 miles), are 
 small telegraph-stations in a desert of the 
 same uninviting character. 
 
 As we approach Green River, the high 
 bluffs on either side present an agreeable 
 change from the country we have passed 
 through. The long range of the Uintah 
 Mountains are south of us, and the Wind 
 River Mountains to the north. 
 
 At Circes* Miver Station, 
 "Wy. (845 miles), is the old fording 
 place of the Oi'erland stage-line. On the 
 left, near the bank of the stream, can be 
 seen the remains of a number of adobe 
 buildings, where a city was laid out and 
 built, but scarcely inhabited. The road 
 moved on, and the town was a failure. 
 The track crosses Green River, a rapid 
 stream — the color of the water giving it 
 its name. This stream rises about 200 
 
 * " Tho Pacific Itiulroad — open." By Samuel 
 Bowles. 
 
Bryan.] 
 
 OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [South Pass. 
 
 miles above the railway-ci'ossing, and 
 empties into the Colorado River, 150 
 miles below. The scenery along this 
 river is said to be very grand, high cliffs 
 rising on each side more than 2,000 feet ; 
 narrow gorges through which the stream 
 rushes with great velocity ; mountains 
 covered with firs to their summits ; all 
 present wild but attractive scenes to the 
 explorer. After crossing Green River 
 the road advances along the west side of 
 the valley, through cuts of slate which is 
 found here in great abundance, and may 
 some time prove profitable for export. 
 The valley of the stream is on our right, 
 and the high bare rocky hills close on our 
 left. This is a fine field for the geologist, 
 and days might be spent in collecting 
 rare specimens which abound along the 
 stream. Thirteen miles of heavy grade 
 brings us to 
 
 ISryaia., Wy. (858 miles), once a 
 notorious town, which was the end of the 
 road in September, 1868. Between the 
 town and the hills, on the west, is Black's 
 Fork, a tributary of Green River, which 
 we follow for some distance. Bryan was 
 a wild town while the freight was de- 
 livered here and shipped west, but one or 
 two stores, a stage-office, two saloons, 
 and a small eating-house, are about all 
 that are occupied of the buildings that 
 remain. The " dobeys " can be seen 
 everywhere crumbling to decay. 
 
 The railway company has had some 
 small repair-shops here, employing 200 
 men, but these are to be moved west, 
 where coal is more accessible, and the 
 Sweetwater stage and freight line is to be 
 transferred to Green River, leaving 
 Bryan without business or visible means 
 of support. From this point a line of 
 stages, carrying the mail, runs to the Sivect- 
 watcr mines, 100 miles northeast ; and, as 
 that region has attracted some attention, 
 we will leave our main route and give a 
 description of it, and a few notes on the 
 stage route through which we pass. 
 
 SWEETWATER MINING REGION. 
 
 Leaving Bryan on the stage in the 
 morning, after the arrival of the eastern 
 passenger-train, our road lies along the 
 railroad for several miles, till turning to 
 the right we commence to ascend the 
 hills. The road is a single track, heavy 
 
 in some places with deep sand, worn 
 through never-ending fields of sage- 
 brush. Two hours' slow riding brings us 
 to the summit of the hills, and looking 
 westward we can see the track of the 
 railroad for a great distance. The sun 
 tinges the snow on the Uintah Mountains 
 with gold, and the low mountains north- 
 ward mark the valley at their base, 
 through which runs Green River. The 
 few trees along this stream, which we 
 cross 20 miles out, look pleasant after the 
 cheerless prospect we have passed. Seven 
 miles after crossing Green River we strike 
 the Great Overland Emigrant Road, a 
 broad, smooth, level, race-track, as it ap- 
 pears, about 60 feet wide, with sage- 
 brush on each side, about two feet hij;h. 
 From an elevated point one can see the 
 road for miles in advance, like a broad 
 ribbon, on the fields of sage. Crossing 
 several small streams at which there are 
 miniature stretches of pasturage, once 
 welcome stopping-places to the tired pil- 
 grim, we arrive at dark at a small log 
 station, the third house we have seen 
 since leaving Bryan. Here we remain for 
 the night, the Indians being so troublc- 
 blesome that the stages travel only by 
 daylight. A good night's rest, and plain 
 but well-cooked meals, of which excellent 
 coffee and juicy venison are the most en- 
 joyable, fit us for another day's ride, and 
 the keen mountain-air gives us new life 
 as we jump in and rattle away toward 
 the Pass. Occasionally a covey of sage- 
 hens starts up, and a sneaking coyote 
 slinks away as we drive rapidly along. 
 Antelope, in herds of several hundred, 
 are feeding on the scattered bunches of 
 grass, and herds of black-tailed deer are 
 often seen on the hills. On the left the 
 Wind River Mountains, 30 miles away, 
 wall in the view to the north, while a roll- 
 ing, hilly, barren country stretches away 
 to the south as far as the eye can reach. 
 The high rocky hills of the South Pass 
 ahead relieve the monotony of the ride, 
 and, after crossing a small stream which 
 flows from Pacific Spring, we turn east- 
 ward and the well-known opening through 
 the mountains lies before us. This was 
 a prominent place during the overland 
 emigration, on account of its water and 
 the grazing along the stream, but the tide 
 of travel has left no trace behind, except 
 105 
 
South Pass City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Asms. 
 
 a few graves of those who had embarked 
 oq this ocean and been stranded and lost, 
 and here in this solitude a few piles of 
 stones mark the spot where all their hopes, 
 cares, and visions of wealth, found an 
 end, and they sleep quietly till the great 
 awakening. Through the Pass and up 
 the long ascent we proceed slowly till 
 we reach the summit, where the waters 
 flow eastward to the Gulf of Mexico, and 
 west to the Pacific. A short ride brings 
 us to the valley and crossing of the Swcet- 
 wafer River ; and over hills, past huge 
 piles of rocks and clumps of pines, we 
 arrive at 
 
 Soaiiit IPass City, a mining town 
 situated in a ravine, and numbering per- 
 haps 250 houses. Several steam-mills 
 are in sight, but for the present there 
 i3 very little doing, and it is safe to say 
 that not more than one house in 
 twenty in any of these mining towns 
 is occupied. Many who have invested 
 in mills here have found that their cap- 
 ital was exhausted before they reached 
 the main lead, which extends through 
 this region, and have been compelled to 
 stop operations. One mill which took out 
 $60,000 the past season still perseveres iu 
 sinking a shaft, which is down 200 feet. 
 Everywhere along the hills are prospect- 
 holes, deserted cabins, and hoisting- 
 works, while the flumes in the valleys 
 show where gulch-mining was carried on. 
 
 Atlantic City, four miles beyond, 
 is another mining-camp, of perhaps a 
 hundred houses, but presents the same 
 dull appearance. If the ledge should be 
 found by any of the present persever- 
 ing miners, the whole region would start 
 into renewed life. 
 
 €amj» Stmnbnugfli, a two-com- 
 pany military post, has been recently es- 
 tablished, two miles from Atlantic, as a 
 protection from the Indians, who have 
 killed many of the miners. The Reser- 
 vation of the Snake or Shoshone India/is, 
 a peaceable tribe, is near the post. 
 This region is well worthy a visit, and 
 particularly interesting to those who 
 have never visited a mining country ; 
 and the geologist could spend mouths 
 here with pleasure and profit. 
 
 Wc will now resume our railway 
 journey at the point from which we 
 made this divergence. 
 100 
 
 After leaving Bryan Station the road 
 follows the valley of Black's Fork, and 
 about 12 miles out we cross the old 
 Mormon trail, plainly defined, winding 
 its way along the hills. 
 
 ©ranger, BJ. V. (876 mil's), is 
 the next station, and here we enter 
 the Territory of Utah, and near here 
 cross Hani's Fork, a small stream which 
 rises to the northwest about 50 miles. 
 The old road to Bridger tends to the 
 left, and we follow up the valley of a 
 small stream known as the Muddy. The 
 broken hills on either side approach 
 near the road here, and their sides are 
 covered in places with a scrubby cedar 
 ( Ji i n i perus occuiei italis ). 
 
 Cnurcn Buttcs, U. T. (8S7 
 miles), and 888 from Sacramento, is an 
 unimportant telegraph-station, receiving 
 its name from the appearance of the 
 Bluffs on the left of the track. 
 
 Carter, U. T. (904 miles), the 
 next point, was once a place from which 
 freight was hauled by teams to Mon- 
 tana and Idaho. Government freight for 
 Fort Bridger, a military post on the old 
 road, is shipped to this station. Wind- 
 ing along the valley, with the irregular 
 hills on each side, we pass Bridger Sta- 
 tion (913 miles). Beyond here, on the 
 bank of the little stream, some deserted 
 houses, on the right, mark the spot of an 
 old ranche on the emigrant road, which 
 ascends the hill beyond, to the Quaking 
 Asp Range. 
 
 Piecimont, 1J. T. (928 miles), a 
 small station in a narrow valley, com- 
 prises a dozen houses, and was headquar- 
 ters for wood-cutters who were at work 
 on the hills during the construction of the 
 road. Prom here the road ascends rap- 
 idly, and is well guarded from snow by 
 snow-sheds which occur very frequently. 
 
 Aspen, U. T. (937 miles), over 
 400 feet above Piedmont, is 7,463 above 
 sea-level, and the highest point on this 
 range of the mountains. Prom here we 
 descend, winding around the southern 
 base of the hills to Bear River City, which 
 was built before the railroad reached here, 
 and it was supposed that this would be 
 a railway station, but the road passed on 
 to Evanston. The old stage-road comes 
 down the hill behind the town, and to the 
 north and east rise hills with clumps of 
 
Evanston.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Castle Rock. 
 
 scattered cedar. Coal-mines have been 
 opened among the hills, within 40 feet of 
 the track. The writer was there in 
 November, 18G8, when the town was at 
 its height of business prosperity, and con- 
 tained nearly 1,000 people of all classes. 
 The 19th of that month was memorable 
 a.s the occasion of the' Bear River Riot, 
 when the roughs incited some of the rail- 
 road graders, and attacked the town, 
 destroying the jail and the printing-office 
 of the Frontier Index, a newspaper which 
 travelled along from town to town as the 
 road progressed. After this the mob 
 advanced on the town but were warmly 
 received, seven of their number being 
 killed, and many of them wounded. The 
 total number of deaths in consequence of 
 this foolish raid, in which whiskey had 
 much to do, was fifteen. The road along 
 here was for some distance constructed 
 by Mormon contractors, and their mason- 
 ry is acknowledged to have been well and 
 faithfully done. 
 
 The road keeps on down the valley of 
 the small creek, until we reach the Bear 
 Hirer Valley. Near the road was a well- 
 built station, store, etc., of the Overland 
 stage company, and some cultivated 
 fields, irrigated from the river. This 
 stream rises in the Uintah Mountains 
 away to the south, and, watering a beau- 
 tiful valley of the same name, flows into 
 Salt Lake at Corinne, where it is a con- 
 siderable stream. 
 
 Crossing Bear River, we descend west- 
 ward and reach 
 
 Evaustou, ¥J. T. (955 miles), 
 where there are extensive mines of coal 
 of excellent quality, worked at a small 
 expense. The railroad company has 
 erected shops here, and the men employed 
 in them and in mining are building quite 
 a respectable sized village. 
 
 Wasatch, U. T. (966 miles), has 
 until recently been a lively station on ac- 
 count of the number of men employed 
 there. During the building of the road, 
 it was a base of supplies while the heavy 
 -work was going on. 
 
 Within this region, moving west, be- 
 tween Green River and Salt Lake Valley, 
 we pass through five tunnels, aggregating 
 nearly 2,000 feet. These tunnels are cut 
 through solid rock, which never crumbles 
 nor disintegrates from the action of the 
 
 atmosphere ; consequently there is no ne- 
 cessity for arching them with brick, or pro- 
 tecting them from falling on passing trains. 
 
 Half a mile west we come to the 
 second tunnel thus far met with. This is 
 770 feet long, and at its eastern end is a 
 long stretch of trestle-work, over 70 feet 
 high, and as the cars move slowly over it 
 we have a view of the valley to the left. 
 The road is made on the rim of the valley 
 by cutting down the side of the hill ; and 
 a tiny stream on the left flows along- 
 watering a narrow strip of green sward. 
 
 Castle Kock, II. T. (975 miles), 
 is a station at the head of Echo Canon 
 (6,240 feet elevation), and now the tour- 
 ist feels interested in his approach to a 
 region so often described as rich in grand 
 and beautiful scenery. 
 
 These canons, or ravines, of which 
 there are very many in the Great West, 
 are sudden depressions in the surface of 
 the earth, sometimes of a vertical depth 
 of thousands of feet. Nothing can be 
 more surprising and more grand than the 
 pictures presented in these strange 
 passages. The effect, too, is always 
 heightened by the unexpected manner in 
 which the traveller comes upon them, as 
 no previous intimation is afforded, by the 
 topography of the land, of their proxim- 
 ity. These which we come across in en- 
 tering Utah are enchantingly beautiful. 
 They are narrow and rugged, with high 
 perpendicular walls of red rock, with 
 curious openings and fresh running 
 streams, with pretty little farms scattered 
 over the delightful landscape. 
 
 The Echo and Weber Canons are two 
 of the most magnificent sights along the 
 whole Pacific route, and the tourist will 
 be fortunate if he passes them by day- 
 light. The rock-ribbed mountains on 
 both sides rise to a grand and awful 
 height. They are bare of foliage, ex- 
 cept a stunted kind of pine-tree, and the 
 tops are white with snow. The road 
 winds around through all the devious 
 turns of these canons, and if there be an 
 " observation car " attached to the rear 
 of the train — as there generally is — the 
 tourist will obtain a fine view of the 
 scenery ; or he will have an equally good 
 view if he can persuade the engineer to 
 let him seat himself on the pilot of the 
 locomotive. 
 
 107 
 
Ecno City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Uintah Station. 
 
 Whirling down the canon we come to 
 Hanging Rock, where, it is said, Brigham 
 Young delivered his first sermon to the 
 faithful, after arriving at Zion. Six 
 miles from this place, a thousand feet 
 above, are seen the ruins of the feeble 
 fortifications set up when President 
 Buchanan marched an army against the 
 Mormons, but halted and went away 
 without making any attack, leaving be- 
 hind stores of provisions, wagons, and 
 ammunition, which fell into their hands. 
 
 Seventeen miles from Castle Rock, 
 after a descent of 433 feet, passing some 
 rocks of great height, we turn to the 
 right, and all at once come to 
 
 5-lvIio City, U. T. (991 miles), 
 a beautiful and romantic place upon 
 which to build a town. Here were the 
 railroad established headquarters for sup- 
 plies, and the town for a while did a large 
 business. From here up Weber Hive?- are 
 considerable Mormon settlements, and for 
 all time to come Echo, unlike some other 
 railroad towns, will have an existence. 
 Passing this station, with the river on our 
 left, we come to the mouth of 
 
 Weber Canon, IJ. T„, about 5 
 miles below, where high rocky walls again 
 confine the view. Any description would 
 avail little toward giving an idea of the 
 grandeur of the scene. Sometimes large 
 clouds descend half-way down the moun- 
 tain-sides, and one feels as if shut in 
 from the outer world. The river's clear, 
 dark-greenish waters dash and foam as 
 they rush down their steep, rocky chan- 
 nel. The Devil's Slide, two parallel lines 
 of rock on the left, extends from the base 
 of the mountain to its summit, and is an 
 object of wonder and interest. Mr. C. C. 
 Fulton, the accomplished editor of the 
 Baltimore American, in describing this 
 spot, says : " Imagine a mountain 800 
 feet high, composed of solid dark-red 
 sandstone, with a smooth and gradually 
 ascending surface to its very pinnacle, 
 and only eight or ten degrees from being 
 perpendicular. At the foot of this moun- 
 tain the Weber River winds its devious 
 course. From the base of the immense 
 red mountain up its entire height of 800 
 feet is what is called the ' Devil's Slide,' 
 "■'imposed of white limestone. It consists 
 of a smooth white stone floor from base 
 to summit, about 15 feet wide, as straight 
 103 
 
 and regular as if laid by a stono-inason 
 with line and plummet. On either side of 
 this smooth white line is what appears 
 to the eye to be a well-laid white stone 
 wall, varying in height from 10 to 30 
 feet. This white spectacle on the red 
 mountain-side has all the appearance of 
 being made by man or devil as a slid* 
 from the top of the mountain to the bed 
 of Weber River." 
 
 The Weber River winds along through 
 these immense mountain-ranges, and the 
 engineering exhibited here is equal to 
 any thing on the Cheat River Division of 
 the Baltimore and Ohio Railway [de- 
 scribed in Route X.). Crossing the river 
 on a truss-bridge we sxiddenly find our- 
 selves in total darkness, passing through 
 a tunnel 550 feet long, cut in the solid 
 rock at great expense, and a little farther 
 onward we pass through another. The 
 old emigrant road can be seen in places 
 as it crosses from side to side ; but the 
 railroad for the greater part of the way 
 is on the same track. 
 
 Weber Station, U. T. (1,007 
 miles), is near some Mormon settlements, 
 whose low log-houses do not speak very 
 highly of agricultural wealth, but per- 
 sistent labor is rewarded with good crops 
 of grain and vegetables. Here the road 
 crosses the valley, and 12 miles below 
 Weber we stop at 
 
 B>cvil's &atc Station, U. T. 
 (1,019 miles), where the road is again 
 between high rocks .and lofty mountains. 
 Just below the station is Devil's Gale, 
 where the stream rushes through a nar- 
 row gorge. If the tourist can stop for a 
 view of this wild scene, and climb to the 
 top of the high knoll on the right, he will 
 look down on a rush of waters 50 feet 
 below him with a loud roar like a cataract, 
 while the wall on the opposite side rises 
 up to a great height. Passing over a 
 bridge high above the stream now escaped 
 from its confinement, he can look down 
 on its foaming waters as they dash 
 against the big bowlders in the channel 
 Three miles farther we emerge from grim 
 battlements of rocks, and catch the first 
 view of Salt Lake Valley as we near 
 
 Hi wilish Station, IT. T. (1,024 
 miles) — 1,690 feet lower than Castle 
 Rock where we entered this mountain- 
 gorge and commenced our rapid descent. 
 
Ogden.] 
 
 OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Lake Citt. 
 
 For some time this station was the point 
 where passengers left the railway and 
 went by stage to Salt Lake. The amount 
 of freight unloaded here at that time 
 made business brisk, and the town of 
 Desert, as it was called, promised to bo a 
 place of importance ; but on the junction 
 of the two roads being fixed at Ogden, 
 and the Utah Central Railway built from 
 there, its prospects of greatness vanished. 
 
 Og;dcn, @J. X. (1,032 miles from 
 Omaha, and 742 from Sacramento), is 
 the end of the Union Pacific Railway, 
 although that company built 52 miles 
 farther, and for a while connected with 
 the Central Pacific Railway at Promon- 
 tory; but a mutual arrangement fixed 
 Ogden as the junction, and where the 
 connection should be made with the 
 Utah Central Railway. 
 
 Ogden has no commercial importance. 
 It has no churches ; but there is here a 
 resident Episcopal clergyman who con- 
 ducts divine services, and there is a 
 flourishing school. The Methodists also 
 hold services here. The Ogden House is 
 the principal hotel. 
 
 Supposing that every person travelling 
 for pleasure will wish to visit the " desert 
 home of the Mormons," we shall here 
 leave the main road, and, after a ride of 
 36 miles in the cars of the Utah Central 
 Railway, shall find ourselves at 
 
 SALT LAKE CITT. 
 
 Salt Lake City, the capital of the Ter- 
 ritory of Utah, is 1,068 miles west of 
 Omaha, and 916 miles east of San Fran- 
 cisco. It lies in a great valley, extending 
 close up to the base of the Wasatch 
 Mountains on the north, with an expan- 
 sive view to the south of more than 100 
 miles of plains, beyond which in the dis- 
 tance rise, clear cut and grand in the 
 extreme, the gray, jagged, and rugged 
 mountains whose peaks are covered with 
 perpetual snow. The highest of these 
 mountains is 11,400 feet above the sea. 
 
 Adjoining the city is a fine agricultural 
 and mining region, which has a large and 
 growing trade. The climate of the val- 
 ley is healthful, and the soil, where it can 
 be irrigated, is extremely fertile. The 
 tourist should spend at least one week 
 in the city and its neighborhood. 
 
 The population of Salt Lake City by 
 
 the last census is 1*7,282 — those bom in 
 the United States numbering 10,214, and 
 in other countries 7,068. This, at first 
 glance, seems to contradict the popular 
 belief that the followers of Brigham 
 Young have been recruited chiefly in 
 foreign countries ; but when the tables 
 showing nativity of parents, the relative 
 numbers of the sexes and the number of 
 children, are prepared, this seeming con- 
 tradiction may be explained. 
 
 The city covers an area of about nine 
 miles, or three miles each way, and is 
 handsomely laid out. The streets are 
 very wide, with irrigating ditches passing 
 through all of them, keeping the shade- 
 trees and orchards looking beautiful. 
 Every block is surrounded with shade- 
 trees, and nearly every house has its neat 
 little orchard of apple, peach, apricot, 
 plum, and cherry trees. Fruit is very 
 abundant, and the almond, the catalpa, 
 and the cotton-wood tree grow side by 
 side with the maple, the willow, and the 
 locust. In fact, the whole nine square 
 miles is almost one continuous garden. 
 
 From Jinsign Park one of the finest 
 views in the overland line is obtained. 
 
 The city is divided into blocks of ten 
 acres, each block being divided into eight 
 lots. These are only subdivided in the 
 business and more thickly settled parts 
 of the city. The blocks are divided into 
 wards, of which there are 20, each hav- 
 ing its meeting-house and bishop. The 
 building material mostly used is sun-dried 
 brick, covered with plaster, and the 
 houses are generally of one story, cover- 
 ing much space. A few of the newer 
 stores are built of stone, and are elegant 
 and capacious within and without. 
 
 There are three hotels, the Salt Lake, 
 Townsend, and Revere Houses, and several 
 small boarding-houses and restaurants. 
 
 There are no street-cars or even omni- 
 buses, except those which carry passen- 
 gers from the railway station to the hotels. 
 The Mormon mode of conveyance is by 
 emigrant wagons drawn by mules or oxen 
 such as one sees in pictures of " crossing 
 the continent." A very few of the church 
 dignitaries only have private carriages. 
 
 The Theatre, the chief place of enter- 
 tainment, is a great building, gloomy- 
 looking from the street, but the interior 
 is handsomely finished in white and gold. 
 109 
 
Salt Lake City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Salt Lake City 
 
 It is 172 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 40 
 feet from floor to ceiling. It seats 1,000 
 persons, and, in its arrangements and 
 appointments, is considered the finest on 
 the continent, outside of New-York City. 
 
 There are several public halls where 
 concerts and other entertainments are 
 given; but the chief amusement of the 
 Mormons is dancing, and this is done 
 principally in the school-houses or meet- 
 ing-houses. 
 
 The Tabernacle is the first object to 
 attract the eye as one approaches the 
 city, although far removed from being 
 imposing, or possessing any architectural 
 beauty. It is of wood, excepting the 46 
 parallelogram pillars of red sandstone, 
 upon which rests its immense dome-like 
 roof. These pillars are nine feet deep, 
 by three feet wide, and about 12 feet 
 high, the space between them being filled 
 up with doors and windows. The Taber- 
 nacle is the largest hall on the continent 
 with a single-span " self-supporting roof." 
 It is oval in shape inside and out, 250 
 feet long, and 150 feet wide, and will scat 
 comfortably between 8,000 and 10,000 
 persons. The ceiling is 62 feet from the 
 floor. The place is used for worship, 
 lectures, and debates. 
 
 The Tabernacle organ is the largest 
 ever built in the United States. There 
 are only two larger in the country, both 
 of which were brought from Europe. 
 One of these is at Boston, and the other 
 in Plymouth Church, Brooklyn. The 
 Mormon organ has 2,000 pipes. It was 
 built by an Englishman, Mr. Joseph 
 Ridges. The woodwork is white moun- 
 tain pine, stained a dark mahogany color. 
 
 The Endowment House is an inferior- 
 looking adobe building, in which the 
 Mormons receive their endowments from 
 on high, where their baptisms for the 
 dead are performed, and where their seal- 
 ings for eternity, and many other of their 
 sacred rites, are observed. No Gentile is 
 allowed within its sacred walls. 
 
 The Temple, if ever finished, will be a 
 magnificent building. The corner-stone 
 was laid some eighteen years ago, and the 
 foundation is now but little above the level 
 of the ground. It will probably never be 
 much higher. Millions of dollars have been 
 raised in England toward its erection, and 
 -J.0 years agp, before the corner-stum- was 
 110 
 
 laid, solicitations were made for the 
 stained glass windows, the painting, the 
 scats, etc., and money is being solicited 
 to-day for the same things. Only a few 
 months since money was being subscribed 
 for nails with which to put on the shin- 
 gles. 
 
 The Mormons, as a religious body, are 
 fast losing their footing. Schisms and 
 divisions are common among them. They 
 have three visible organizations in the 
 city, each with its regular services : the 
 Josephites, the Godbeites, and the ortho- 
 dox Brighamites. The Godbeites ate 
 rapidly gaining in numbers. They are, 
 for the most part, disaffected Brighamites, 
 and are a powerful and influential party. 
 Their organ is the Salt Lake Tribune, and 
 they have recently built a separate meet- 
 ing-house for worship. 
 
 [An interesting sketch of the rise and 
 progress of Mormonism, by Mr. W. F. 
 Rae, will be found in the chapter on Utah.] 
 
 St. Mark's Mission, of the Protestant 
 Episcopal Church, is in a flourishing con- 
 dition, holding regular services in Inde- 
 pendence Hall, having a Sunday-school of 
 200 children, a day-school with 230, and 
 a church edifice nearly completed. There 
 are at present no churches in Salt Lake 
 City, and St. Mark's Church will be the 
 only building in it that can pretend to 
 architectural beauty or finish. It is be- 
 ing built of red sandstone, handsomely 
 cut, in the Gothic style, and will cost 
 about $40,000. 
 
 The Methodists have regular services 
 in a hall, a flourishing Sunday-school, and 
 a day-school. 
 
 St. Mark's School is the nearest ap- 
 proach to a free school in the Territory. 
 The terms for instruction are reasonable to 
 those able to pay, and free to those who 
 cannot pay. There is an able corps of 
 teachers, with Bishop Tuttle as rector, 
 and pupils can pass a thorough academic 
 course preparatory for college, including 
 all the higher branches, Latin, Greek, and 
 Hebrew. The school has 230 pupils, and 
 many arc turned away for want of ac- 
 commodation. The building, with all its 
 surroundings, is poorly adapted to its 
 present purpose. 
 
 The Mormon school system is very de- 
 ficient, 'flic Deseret University, quite a 
 recent institution, is a school where tho 
 
S. Lake City.] OMAHA TO S4N FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Lake Ciitt. 
 
 higher branches of education are taught, 
 and where the church dignitaries and 
 others who can afford it send their elder 
 children. It is said the university has an 
 able corps of teachers. 
 
 There is nothing like a respectable 
 echool building, with its separate depart- 
 ments and proper appointments, in the 
 whole Territory. This university and Brig- 
 ham's private school-house are the only 
 ones that are intended especially for 
 schools. 
 
 The Mormons have no regular system of 
 public instruction like that so familiar to 
 all in the. United States. Teaching is 
 taken up occasionally by any who may 
 choose to give instruction in their ward 
 meeting-houses, but the course never ex- 
 ceeds three months in a year. The terms, 
 too, are high, and very many persons can- 
 not afford to send their children to school 
 at all. Consequently, it is not surprising 
 that the education of the large majority 
 of the population consists simply of read- 
 ing and writing, and that even very im- 
 perfectly, while many others cannot even 
 read and write. 
 
 The City Hall is a substantial building 
 of red sandstone, with the doors and 
 windows in front finished in oak graining. 
 It is 60 feet square, and is surmounted 
 by a clock tower. It contains offices for 
 the mayor, recorder, and city treasurer ; 
 a court-room where the aldermen's and 
 justices' courts are held ; the city at- 
 torney's office, the Territorial Library, 
 Council Chamber, office of the Adjutant- 
 General of the Territorial militia, and 
 chambers in which the Territorial Legis- 
 lature meets. 
 
 The City Prison is in the rear. It is 
 strongly built of red sandstone. 
 
 Temple Block, like the other blocks, as 
 already stated, contains ten acres. It is 
 surrounded by a solid wall, 12 feet high. 
 Though not the centre of the city, it is 
 the centre of the hopes of thousands who 
 come to Zion for their salvation. It con- 
 tains the foundation of the Temple, the 
 old and new Tabernacles, and the Endow- 
 ment House. 
 
 Br iff ham's Block, which is east of 
 Temple Block, contains the Tithing House, 
 the Deseret News office, Brigham's Bee- 
 hive House, the Lion House, his private 
 telegraph-office, and other offices, the 
 
 Museum, a private school-house, and 
 various other smaller buildings, dwellings, 
 shops, etc., the whole enclosed by a solid 
 high stone wall, with close heavy gates. 
 
 The Lion House is so named from a 
 figure of a lion over the front entrance, 
 and the Bee-Hive House from a carved 
 bee-hive in front, emblematic, respec- 
 tively, of strength and industry. Some 
 eighteen or twenty of Brigham Young's 
 wives are living in these two houses. His 
 first wife lives in the While House, which is 
 within the same enclosure. Some of his 
 other wives are living in different parts 
 of the city and Territory. 
 
 There are no parks in Salt Lake City, 
 and the public squares are simply vacant 
 blocks, of which there are two or three, 
 without trees or shrubbery. Neither are 
 there any drives or walks. Indeed there 
 is not a rod of pavement of any kind, 
 nor a street crossing in the whole city, 
 although the people here have been 
 taxed enough ahnost to pave the streets 
 with gold. The Mormons evidently do 
 not believe in marring the simplicity of 
 Nature by public improvements, so one 
 must be almost suffocated with dust in 
 summer, and wade through mud in win- 
 ter. 
 
 The manufactories of Salt Lake City 
 embrace a sash-and-blind factory, a 
 steam-planing mill, a paper-mill, and some 
 adobe-brick yards. There are two cotton- 
 factories in the Territory, and ten woollen- 
 factories. 
 
 The newspapers published in the city 
 are the Deseret- News and the Salt Lake 
 Herald, formerly called the Telegraph, 
 both daily, and organs of the Brighamite 
 faction. The Salt Lake Daily Tribune, 
 as has been already stated, is the Godbc- 
 ite organ. 
 
 The Mormon Cemetery, the only bury- 
 ing-ground, lies on the bench, to the 
 northeast of the city. It is a barren and 
 dismal-looking place, without grass, tree, 
 or shrub. There are no walks nor 
 drives, no handsome monuments, the 
 majority of the graves being without 
 headstones, and many without even a 
 wooden slab to mark the spot where 
 rest the dead. 
 
 Most of the Gentiles are buried at Camp 
 Douglas, where they prefer their remains 
 to be taken. 
 
 Ill 
 
CORINNE.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Promontory Point. 
 
 Camp Douglas is a post established by 
 General E. P. Conner, in 1802, garrisoned 
 by a few hundred militia. It is located 
 TOO feet higher than, and two miles east 
 of, Salt Lake City, on a sloping upland or 
 bench, at the base of the mountains, and 
 commands a fine view of the city, valley, 
 and mountains. Thomas W. Haskins is 
 post chaplain. 
 
 Corinuc, JU. T. (1,055 miles), the 
 first station on the Central Pacific liail- 
 W'i)/, is a thriving place, and promises to 
 be of considerable commercial impor- 
 tance as the great distributing point for 
 the Montana trade. Virginia City, 360 
 miles, and Helena, 480 miles distant, are 
 reached by Wells, Fargo & Co.'s daily line 
 of coaches, which carry the U. S. mail, 
 express matter, and passengers. 
 
 The recent excitement in Utah, conse- 
 quent on the discovery of extensive sil- 
 ver-mines in the Salt Lake region, prom- 
 ises to make Corinne a very important 
 place. A steamer of 500 tons' burden, 
 called " The City of Corinne," has been 
 launched to ply between Corinne and 
 Black Rock, on the southwest shore of 
 Salt Lake, a route of 10 miles, whence a 
 railroad is projected southward through 
 the heart of Rush Valley, East Canon, 
 Camp Floyd, Tintic, Levere, and Star 
 districts, to Meadow Valley. This road 
 will leave many of the mining dis- 
 tricts but a few miles to the right and 
 left. 
 
 The nearest mine to the steamboat 
 landing is five miles, and others are thir- 
 teen, twenty, and various distances, ac- 
 cessible, however, and greatly in need of 
 just such freighting facilities as " The 
 City of Corinne " will afford. Corinne 
 secures the trade and traffic of most of 
 the silver-producing regions by this step, 
 and the expeuses will be much less than 
 heretofore, when the ore has been hauled 
 by teams from 30 to 50 miles over some 
 of the worst roads in the West. The 
 products of East Canon, Tintic, Levere, 
 and Piouch, will seek this line. What 
 the ten thousand miners who will be at 
 work in the silver districts will need of 
 supplies, produce, and the results of their 
 labor, will all go to this sole steamboat 
 venture between the Missouri and the 
 Pacific coast. The result will be a di- 
 version of much of the business from Salt 
 112 
 
 Lake which has heretofore sought the 
 railroad at that point. Corinne and Og- 
 den are become masters of the situation, 
 and, with both bidding to be the chief 
 city of Utah, they promise in the long- 
 run to get ahead of Salt Lake City. 
 
 A description of the silver-mines will 
 be found in the chapter on Utah, in an- 
 other part of the volume. 
 
 Resuming our journey, ascending and 
 passing out of the Salt Lake Valley, we 
 skirt the northern shore of the lake, 
 cross Bear Jiiver, its chief tributary, 
 until we come to Blue Creel; which 
 crossing on a trestle-bridge, 300 feet long, 
 taking our way through deep cuttings 
 and heavy fillings, and rounding a sharp 
 curve, we find ourselves at 
 
 Promontory IPoiBfit, 1J. T. 
 (1,084 miles), which is 700 feet above 
 Ogden. This is a spot which will be re- 
 garded with much interest by the tourist 
 as the one w y here the two companies 
 building the railway, on the 10th of May, 
 1869, joined their tracks, and, with a 
 golden spike, driven by a silver hammer 
 into a rosewood tie, fastened the last rail 
 connecting the Pacific with the Atlantic. 
 The ceremony of driving the last spike 
 was marked by an incident to which a 
 parallel will be sought in vain among the 
 many extraordinary feats of modern 
 times. The hammer with which the 
 blows were given was connected to a wire 
 in direct communication with the prin- 
 cipal telegraph- offices throughout the 
 Union. Thus, the instant that the work 
 was consummated the result was simul- 
 taneously saluted on the shores of two 
 great oceans, and throughout the wide 
 expanse of a vast continent, by the roar 
 of cannon and the ringing of bells. 
 
 Lest any curious traveller should waste 
 his time in seeking for the precious spike 
 aud the valuable sleeper, we may state 
 that they were removed almost as soon 
 as laid, and that pieces of ordinary wood 
 and iron were substituted for them. But 
 these, however, did not long remain in- 
 tact. The hoarders of relics hacked the 
 sleeper into splinters in the course of a 
 few minutes, and attacked the last rail 
 with a vigor which had the effect of 
 rendering it worthless. The sleeper had 
 to be renewed three times and the rail 
 once in the course of a week. Even then, 
 
Salt Lake.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Hum. Wells. 
 
 credulous visitors were still busied in 
 cutting mementoes of the " last tie." 
 
 ITIic ttreat Ssiitt ILalcc is so 
 palty that no living thing can exist in it. 
 The road skirts the north side of the 
 lake, while the Mormon city lies cast of 
 the south end of it. It is about 45 miles 
 in width and 12G miles in length, as quiet 
 and placid amid its mountain barriers as 
 the water in a basin. It has numerous 
 islands on its bosom, one of which, called 
 Antelope, is 15 miles in length. The 
 water of this lake is so buoyant it is 
 difficult to sink in it, and if allowed to 
 dry on one's body the salt will fall off in 
 scales. These islands would make mag- 
 nificent summer resorts, and probably the 
 day is not very distant when they will 
 be occupied for that purpose, and little 
 pleasure-steamers will be used to ex- 
 plore the recesses. After leaving Prom- 
 ontory and the borders of Salt Lake, we 
 enter upon that extended plateau, about 
 60 miles in width and of the same length, 
 known as 
 
 'JTIie Great American B>es- 
 ert, which expands over an area of 
 about GO square miles. Its whole surface 
 is covered with a sapless weed, five or six 
 inches in height, and is never known to 
 grow any thing green that could be used 
 to sustain animal life. The earth is a 
 mixture of salt, and there is every indica- 
 tion that in times long past it was a part 
 of the bed of Salt Lake, bounded on one 
 side by the Sierra, and on the other by 
 the California Mountains. The only living 
 things found upon it are lizards and what 
 are called jackass rabbits ; the only land- 
 scape feature, dry, brown, and bare moun- 
 tains. This desert probably has no agri- 
 cultural future. In dry weather the trav- 
 eller has to expect blinding showers of 
 alkali-dust. Passing through Rozel and 
 Monument, uninteresting stations, we 
 come to 
 
 Melton, HJ. T. (1,123 miles). A 
 daily line of stages for Idaho and Oregon 
 starts from this point, carrying passengers 
 through to Boise City in two days ; Walla 
 Walla, four days ; Portland via Umatilla, 
 on the Columbia River, five and a half 
 davs. 
 
 Martin, U. T. (1,137 miles), is 
 about midway of the Great American 
 Desert, and is worth mentioning for no 
 
 other reason. Terrace (1,153 miles), and 
 Bovine (1,104 miles), and other small set 
 tlements in the wilderness are passed, 
 and we soon reach 
 
 Toamo, Ncv. (1,214 miles), the 
 commencement of Humboldt Division, 
 which extends to Winneuiucca, 23*7 miles 
 distant. This place is now only an eat- 
 ing-station ; but promises to become the 
 important diverging point from the rail- 
 road, for the following-named rapidly-de- 
 veloping mining districts, viz. : Deep 
 Creek, Egan Cailon, Ely, Kern, Kinsley, 
 Pahranagat, and Patterson. A stage-line 
 runs from Toano to Egan Canon, 90 miles 
 to the south. It is to be extended to 
 Ely District, 225 miles, where the JPiocIie 
 mines are being worked. Ten miles from 
 Toano we come to 
 
 IPeejnop, Nev. (1,224 miles), which 
 divides the desert from Humboldt Valley, 
 and where we commence descending a 
 long grade until we reach the Sierra Ne- 
 vada Mountains. 
 
 Otego (1,230 miles), a signal-station, 
 Independence (1,236 miles), Moor's, 1,242 
 miles), and Cedar (1,244 miles), are 
 passed, and we stop at 
 
 ■Wells, Ncv. (1,250 miles), an un- 
 important place in itself, but of interest 
 as being in the neighborhood of rich sil- 
 ver, copper, and lead mines discovered 
 in the latter part of 18*70. Smelting* 
 works have been erected, and, as the dis- 
 trict is well supplied with wood and 
 water, it is likely to attain some promi- 
 nence. 
 
 ISniaifijolsIft "Wells. In the neigh- 
 borhood of Wells also, situated in a 
 lovely valley, are the Humboldt Wells, a 
 favorite resting-place with immigrants 
 before the building of the Pacific road. 
 There are about twenty of these wells or 
 springs scattered in short distances from 
 each other. Although within 200 or 300 
 yards of the road, these are almost hidden 
 from the view of the tourist by the tall, 
 rank grass that surrounds them. The 
 company obtains its supply of water from 
 them. It is supposed that they are 
 craters of extinct volcanoes ; they have 
 been sounded to a great depth, but no 
 bottom has been found. The Humboldt 
 Wells are one of the greatest curiosities 
 in the Humboldt Valley, and should by 
 all means be visited by the tourist. 
 113 
 
Hcmboldt Valley.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Palisape 
 
 Ylae Blitsia'bolsit Valley. Leav- 
 ing the high, broad, barren, and forbid- 
 ding valleys or plains through which our 
 route has lain since leaving Salt Lake, 
 the traveller hails with delight his ap- 
 proach to the fertile Humboldt Valley, 
 through which we are now passing, fol- 
 lowing the course of the Humboldt River. 
 This is (he old immigrant route across 
 the continent. After passing through the 
 Great American Desert the sight of a 
 running river and luxuriant vegetation is 
 most enjoyable. The Humboldt River 
 freshens and enriches this region. It 
 has its source in the mountains of that 
 name, and flows westward for about 250 
 miles. Along its banks is a thick fringe 
 composed of willow-trees and a variety 
 of shrubs. It is characteristic of this 
 part of the country that, as soon as the 
 land is irrigated, almost any plant or 
 vegetable can be grown upon it. The 
 climate is genial. If it were not for the 
 lack of rain, millions of acres might be at 
 once brought under cultivation. Hence 
 the extreme value of the ti - act adjacent to 
 a stream of water large enough to supply 
 all that is required for the purposes of 
 irrigation. AVhen the immigrants former- 
 ly traversed this route, they timed their 
 halting-places go as to be within easy 
 reach of a river. In many places there 
 are numerous pools of water ; but for the 
 most part these are so strongly impreg- 
 nated with alkali as to be even more un- 
 drinkable than sea-water. The alkali 
 water burns the tongue, inflames the 
 throat, and irritates the stomach. 
 
 Continuing our way through the val- 
 ley, leaving behind us Tulasco (1,258 
 miles), Dceth (1,271 miles), Hallcck (1,284 
 miles), hidden from view by intervening 
 mountains, and J'cko (1,287 miles) — all 
 unimportant stations — we cross the North 
 Fork by a substantial bridge, and soon 
 reach (kino (1,297 miles), where the val- 
 ley suddenly terminates. Ten miles' ride 
 through a grand and wild region of river, 
 canon, and mountain, brings us to Elko. 
 
 Elko, Ifev. (1,307 miles), is one 
 of the most important railway stations 
 between the Rocky and Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains. It is the capital of Elko 
 County, and supply-station for numerous 
 outlying mining districts, among which 
 may be mentioned White Tine, Cope, 
 114 
 
 Bull Run, Wyoming, Bruno, Murray, 
 Railroad, Mineral Hill, and Eureka. With 
 little more than a year's growth, Elko 
 has already a population of 5,000 ; con- 
 tains some 150 stores, groceries, and 
 restaurants; three extensive freight-de- 
 pots and forwarding-houses ; a first-class 
 hotel, at which railway passengers get 
 their meals ; two banking-houses, two 
 newspapers, a spacious court-house, anil 
 a flourishing school. One mile from 
 town are located mineral springs fitted 
 up for bathing purposes, and possessing 
 remarkable healing properties, and of 
 any temperature desired. Some idea can 
 be formed of the amount of business 
 transacted in Elko, from the fact that 
 during the busy season about $30,000 
 worth of passenger tickets are sold per 
 month at the station, and $5,000 per day 
 is paid for freight. 
 
 nioleen, Ner. (1,319 miles), is 
 only a side-track. Before reaching the 
 next station we cross Maggie's Creek, so 
 named after a pretty little Scotch girl, 
 pet of a band of immigrants who many 
 years ago passed this way. 
 
 Carlin, Nev. (1,330 miles), is a 
 rising town, and aspires to rival Elko for 
 the White Pine trade. It is a point of 
 departure from the west for Idaho. For 
 nearly 200 miles to the west of this place 
 the scenery continues to be monotonous, 
 consisting of wide barren plains bordered 
 by mountain-slopes. The Humboldt Riv- 
 er, with its banks fringed with shrubs 
 and plants, and the land for some dis- 
 tance on either side affording grazing- 
 ground for herds of cattle, alone give a 
 slight variety to the scene. Now and 
 then a prairie-wolf slinks aside as the 
 passing train startles it from its lair. 
 More than one rude monument may be 
 seen, indicating the spot where a foul 
 murder had bun perpetrated or a bloody 
 combat had been waged. It was in this 
 locality that the Indians made a savage 
 onslaught on those engaged in construct- 
 ing the line, murdering, scalping, and 
 plundering several white men. 
 
 1'alisade, Nev. (1,339 miles), is 
 the most important point between Ogdcn 
 and Reno; it is (he distributing point for 
 Mineral Hill, Eureka, Spring Valley, Se- 
 cret Canon, ( Irantsvillo, and other dis- 
 tricts south of the road. Prom thia 
 
Argenta.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Wadsworth, 
 
 place stages take their departure for 
 White Pine and neighboring districts. 
 It is near this station that we see The 
 Palisades in their grandeur — the moun- 
 tains rearing their heads more than a 
 thousand feet in height. Crossing the 
 river to the south bank, we pass CI tiro 
 (1,350 miles), a side-track, make our way 
 through Hot Springs Valley, where there 
 is a huge crater full of steaming sulphur- 
 water, and reach Be-o-wa-we (1,358 miles). 
 Ten miles from here is Shoshone, and the 
 next station is 
 
 Argesita, Ner. (1,379 miles). 
 This is the most convenient point to the 
 celebrated Reese River mines, and is a 
 place of some importance. Coaches con- 
 nect here with Austin (90 miles), and 
 Belmont, 175 miles distant. Austin used 
 to be a promising mining district, and 
 had some live or sis thousand inhabit- 
 ants. It was the forerunner of White 
 Pine and the successor of " Washoe ; " 
 but now its glory has faded. 
 
 The traveller, in passing through Ne- 
 vada, does not see the agricultural or 
 mineral resources of the State, as the 
 mines of White Pine, Eureka, Reese 
 River, Mineral Hill, and many others of 
 less importance, lie from 30 to 150 miles 
 south of the road ; and Cope, Bull Run, 
 Bruno, etc., lie north of the road. There 
 are many valleys, both north and south, 
 which are susceptible of cultivation, and 
 which can be made to produce grains 
 and vegetables of every kind. They also 
 afford grazing to thousands of cattle and 
 sheep. These are unseen by the traveller 
 by rail ; the chief features which attract 
 his attention are the ant-hills and sage- 
 brush, which give to the country a dreary 
 and forbidding appearance very uninvit- 
 ing to the tourist. The town of Eureka, 
 80 miles south of the road, in November, 
 1869, numbered 13 inhabitants; it now 
 has about 2,500 prosperous and indus- 
 trious miners. One company alone — 
 " The Eureka Consolidated " — has ship- 
 ped 3,000 tons of base bullion. The 
 Buttercup and other companies are doing 
 a large and prosperous business, with a 
 bright prospect for future success. Fur- 
 ther information concerning the mines of 
 this region is given in the chapter on Ne- 
 vada. 
 
 USattlc ftlowiUaiii, ftev. (1,391 
 
 miles), take3 its name from the mountain 
 on the right of the track, the scene of a 
 bloody conflict between two Indian tribes. 
 We pass between the Trinity Mountains 
 on the north, and the West Humboldt on 
 the south, through a mining district of 
 much promise. Near here Rock Creek 
 flows into the Humboldt, swelling the 
 waters of that mysterious river, which 
 we now lose from view as it sneaks otf 
 among the hills and dies in the sands. 
 Rich veins of copper have been discov- 
 ered in the valley of Rock Creek. 
 
 gtome Mouse, I¥ev. (1,410 
 miles), is remarkable for nothing but its 
 excellent water, and its old stone trading- 
 house. We pass Iron Point, 12 miles 
 westward, and reach 
 
 <(J«>Seo3i«lsn, I¥ev. (1,431- miles), 
 the outlet to the Gold River mining dis- 
 trict. In the neighborhood of the sta- 
 tion are more hot springs. Tide (1,445 
 miles), a place of no importance, is passed, 
 and we come to 
 
 "WinB&esHiiacca, TSev. (1,451 
 miles), where the Truckee Division com- 
 mences, and where the railway company 
 has large workshops and a round-house. 
 Daily coaches start from this place to 
 Boise City, Paradise, Camp McDermott, 
 Battle Creek, and Silver City. Large quan- 
 tities of freight are also reshipped here 
 for these points and parts of Montana. 
 
 Seven small and unimportant signal 
 and' side stations are passed, when we 
 find ourselves encompassed by the Great 
 Nevada Desert. Granite Point (1,533 
 miles), and Brown's (1,541 miles), arc 
 left behind. From the last-named sta- 
 tion there is a fine view of Humboldt 
 Lake, whose waters mingle with those 
 of the Carson about 10 miles distant, 
 and together disappear in the sands. 
 Passing innumerable hot-springs, and 
 leaving in the rear WJiite Plains, Mirage, 
 and Desert, we reach 
 
 Wadsworth, Nev. (1,587 
 miles), the beginning of the Sacramento 
 Division. The railway company has ex- 
 tensive workshops here, which, together 
 with being the reshipping point of sup- 
 plies for Fort Churchill and several min- 
 ing camps, gives it the little importance 
 of which it can boast. We are now begin- 
 ning the ascent of the Sierra Nevadas. 
 The wearying sight of plains covered. 
 115 
 
Reno.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Tr.rcKHE. 
 
 with alkali and sage-brush is exchanged 
 for picturesque views of mountain-slopes, 
 adorned with branching pine-trees, and 
 diversified with foaming torrents. This 
 is a gratifying relief, as well as a fascinat- 
 ing prospect. An anecdote is told of a 
 [umber-man, who journeyed from his na- 
 tive State of Maine to seek his fortune in 
 the State of California. He was extremely 
 taciturn and depressed in spirits during 
 the journey across the plains. When 
 these mountains came in sight, and his 
 eyes rested upon the familiar pine-trees, 
 he gazed earnestly for a moment, then, 
 rising to his feet, exclaimed, " Thank 
 God, I smell pitch once more ; " and then, 
 sinking back into his seat, he wept for 
 
 joy. 
 
 Kenio, Ncv. (1,022 miles), the last 
 halting-place of importance during the 
 westward jouruey through Nevada, is 
 named after General Reno, killed at South 
 Mountain. It is on the Truckee Hirer, 
 about 5 miles from the base of the Siemij 
 and within a few miles of Virginia City 
 and Gold Hill, the headquarters of the 
 miners who work the numerous silver 
 and gold mines in this district. The 
 Great Comestock Jx>de lies between these 
 two towns, which are built along the 
 mountain-side, upon the crust of the great 
 silver-mine of America, with open depths 
 beneath of from 500 to 1,000 feet, and 
 more miles of streets below than above. 
 Stages run daily between Reno and Vir- 
 ginia City. Reno is the depot of the 
 transshipment of freight and passengers 
 for Virginia, Gold Hill, Carson, and 
 Washoe Valley, south, and Honey Lake, 
 Sierra and Long Valleys, north. It is, 
 also, the northern terminus of the pro- 
 posed Virginia ct' Truckee Railway. There 
 is a fine grain-growing country for many 
 miles around the city. 
 
 Taking our way from Reno through 
 deep canons, heavily timbered with pine 
 and other evergreens, we pass Verdi 
 (1,632 miles), and Boca (1,043 miles). 
 At a short distance east of the latter 
 place we leave Nevada behind, and enter 
 the State of California. The ascent now 
 becomes very steep, and two locomotives 
 are employed to draw the train. At short 
 intervals there are strong wooden sheds 
 of about a thousand feet long, erected to 
 guard the line against destruction from 
 116 
 
 snow-slides. These sheds, which are very 
 much like tunnels, have been constructed 
 at great expense, and in a solid manner. 
 They have the drawback of interrupting 
 the view of some of the most romantic 
 scenery on the line. The glimpses one 
 gets are just enough to tantalize and not 
 prolonged enough to satisfy. Eight miles 
 west of Boca is Truckee. 
 
 Truckce, Csal. (1,056 miles), 
 which has well been called the Lake 
 George of the Pacific, is on the Truckee 
 River. It is substantially built, and con- 
 tains some 6,000 inhabitants. There are 
 21 saw-mills in the neighborhood. Ex- 
 cursionists to Donner Lake and Lake 
 Tahoe leave the railroad here. 
 
 Stages for Donner Lake, two and a half 
 miles distant, await the arrival of each 
 train to transjjort passengers free to the 
 Grant House. The view of the lake from 
 the station is most charming, presenting 
 a vast sheet of water picturesquely situ- 
 ated in a gorge of the Sierras. The 
 neighborhood of Donner Lake was once 
 the theatre of a terrible tragedy. A 
 number of immigrants travelling to Cali- 
 fornia, in 1S46, were overtaken by the 
 snow within eight miles of the lake. The 
 party was composed of men, women, and 
 children, numbering eighty in all. They 
 were blocked in by snow-drifts and were 
 compelled to encamp and wait for the re- 
 turn of spring. Long before the winter 
 was over and gone, their stock of pro- 
 visions was exhausted, the cattle had all 
 been killed and eaten, and even the hides 
 had been devoured by the half-famished 
 party. Then came the bitter struggle 
 between absolute starvation and a resort 
 to cannibalism. The desire to live tri- 
 umphed over every other consideration, 
 and the bodies of the dead became the 
 sustenance of the survivors. While this 
 horrible tragedy was being enacted, an 
 event happened which has given rise to 
 much speculation among the believers in 
 supernatural occurrences. A hunter, 
 named Blount, living in California, be- 
 held in a dream the situation and con- 
 dition of the suffering party. The im- 
 pression made on him was so intense that 
 lie mentioned the circumstance to other 
 hunters who were well acquainted with 
 the region around Donner Lake. They 
 told him that his description tallied with 
 
Summit Station.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Alabaster. 
 
 the reality. This intelligence had the 
 effect of making him resolve upon doing 
 what he could to rescue the snow-bound 
 immigrants. Being joined by others he 
 went to their rescue, and had the satis- 
 faction of saving nearly thirty out of the 
 eighty. The survivors were frostbitten 
 and crippled ; but their physical condi- 
 tion was less deplorable than their mental 
 state. They had lived upon human flesh 
 till they had acquired a liking for it. One 
 of them was detected smeared with blood 
 and furtively roasting a woman's arm, 
 after the supply of other food was ample. 
 Such a story furnishes confirmation of 
 the saying that truth outstrips fiction. 
 
 Donner Lake is already a favorite 
 summer resort for Californians, and a 
 type of a series of grand lakes along the 
 Upper Sierras. Lake Tahoe, an Indian 
 name, signifying " big water " (pro- 
 nounced " Tah-oo " by the Indians, and 
 "Tahoe" by Californians) is 12 miles 
 south of Truckee, from which it is 
 reached by a splendid road, along the 
 river-bank, under the shade of beautiful 
 trees or across rich meadows. Excur- 
 sions may be made around this beautiful 
 lake in carriage, on horseback, or by 
 steamboat (see, also, chapter on Califor- 
 nia). A day or two spent at Tahoe and 
 Donner Lakes will well repay the tourist, 
 who will find never-ending attractions in 
 the many beauties of this mountain-range. 
 The noble forests, the castellated rocks, 
 the wedded summer and winter, the dry 
 pure air, the mosses, the flowers, and 
 mountain-fruits, will all combine to re- 
 mind him that he is, indeed, in the far- 
 famed Golden State. (See Appendix.) 
 
 From Truckee to the coast is one 
 grand, continuous panorama, although 
 those who have crossed the Sierras, in 
 the stage, either by the Placerville route 
 or by the Henness Pass, declare that the 
 traveller loses half the fine scenery by 
 travelling by rail. It is certainly very 
 annoying that for the next twenty miles 
 or more the tunnels and snow-sheds al- 
 most shut out from view the grand moun- 
 tain scenery on both sides of the road. 
 A fifteen miles ascent brings us to 
 
 ^iiimuit Station, Cal. (1,671 
 miles), which, although the highest point 
 on this line, is not so high as Sherman 
 Station on the Union Pacific. It is 7,042 
 
 feet above the level of the sea. This rep- 
 resents not the altitude of the Sierra Ne- 
 vada range, but only the elevation of 
 this mountain-pass. Above the station 
 the peaks of the mountains tower cloud- 
 ward. The scene is one of indescribable 
 grandeur, and on reaching this elevation, 
 one is bound to admit that the railroad 
 passage over these mountains is the 
 greatest triumph of engineering skill and 
 labor on the whole line. The track going 
 west ascends 2,500 feet in 50 miles, and 
 descends 6,000 feet in 75 miles. There 
 is over a mile of tunnels on the route, 
 and a million dollars was spent in blast- 
 ing-powder alone for the construction. 
 
 From Summit Station to Sacramento, 
 the distance is 104 miles. Between these 
 places the descent from a height nearly 
 half as great as that of Mont Blanc to 56 
 feet above the sea-level has to be made. 
 The line is carried along the edge of de- 
 clivities stretching downward for two or 
 three thousand feet, and in some parts 
 on a narrow ledge which has been ex- 
 cavated from the mountain-side by men 
 swung from the upper parts in baskets. 
 It is thus at Cape Morn, a point grand 
 and imposing in the extreme. Five or 
 six miles from this place, at an altitude 
 of 2,450 feet, is 
 
 Colfax, Cal. (1,722 miles), a place 
 of considerable prominence, being the 
 point of departure for Grass Valley and 
 Nevada. The altitude of the station is 
 2,450 feet. There are some prosperous 
 quartz-mines in the neighborhood. Daily 
 coaches connect Colfax with Iowa Hill, 
 12 miles, Grass Valley, 13 miles, Nevada, 
 17 miles, North San Juan, 29 miles, Camp- 
 tonville, 41 miles, Forest-Hill City, 60 
 miles, and Downeville, 75 miles distant. 
 
 Auburn, Cal. (1,740 miles), the 
 next station, a pretty and prosperous set- 
 tlement of about 1,000 inhabitants, is 
 the capital of Placer County. It is sur- 
 rounded by a region containing many 
 rich placer and quartz mines. The cars 
 connect with stages here for Coloma, 
 Placerville, and Georgetown. 
 
 Alabaster Cave. — About 8 miles 
 southeast of Auburn, on Kidd's Ravine, 
 about a mile above its junction with the 
 north fork of American River, is the re- 
 markable Alabaster Cave, which is thus 
 described by its first explorer, Mr. Gwynn, 
 117 
 
Sacramento.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Sacramento. 
 
 in the Sacramento Bee, August 19, 1860. 
 He says : " Wonders will never cease. 
 On yesterday, we, in quarrying rock, made 
 an opening to the most beautiful cave 
 you ever beheld. On our first entrance, 
 we descended about 15 feet, gradually to 
 the centre of the room, which is 100 x 30 
 feet. At the north end there is a most 
 magnificent pulpit in the Episcopal Church 
 style that man ever has seen. It seems 
 that it is, and should be called, the ' Holy 
 of Holies.' It is completed with the most 
 beautiful drapery of alabaster sterites, of 
 all colors, varying from white to pink- 
 red, overhanging the beholder. Imme- 
 diately under the pulpit there is a beau- 
 tiful lake of water, extending to an un- 
 known distance. We thought this all, 
 but, to our great admiration, on arriving 
 at the centre of the first room, we saw an 
 entrance to an inner chamber still more 
 splendid, 200 x 100 feet, with most beau- 
 tiful alabaster overhangings, in every pos- 
 sible shape of drapery. Here stands 
 magnitude, giving the instant impression 
 of a power above man ; grandeur that 
 defies decay ; antiquity that tells of ages 
 unnumbered ; beauty, which the touch of 
 time makes more beautiful ; use exhaust- 
 less for the service of man ; strength im- 
 perishable as the globe, the monument 
 of eternity — the truest emblem of that 
 everlasting and unchangeable, irresistible 
 Majesty, by whom, and for whom, all 
 things were made." 
 
 Leaving Auburn, we pass Newcastle 
 ( 1 ,74 5 miles), Rocklin ( 1 ,754 miles), where 
 the railroad company has a machine-shop 
 and round-house, substantially built of 
 granite, of which there is abundance in 
 the neighborhood, and stop at 
 
 Junction, €al, (1,758 miles), an 
 eating-station. The Central Pacific con- 
 nects here with the California & Oregon 
 Railway, which now connects with Tort- 
 land on the Columbia River (see chapter 
 on California). Passengers for Northern 
 California and Oregon change cars here. 
 
 Seventeen miles takes us through An- 
 telope and Arcade, unimportant stations, 
 bringing us into the low valleys, and so 
 we reach Sacramento, the capital of Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 Sacramento, Cal. (1,775 miles), 
 is the most remarkable city in the State — 
 but is less remarkable for what it is than 
 118 
 
 for what it has survived. More than once, 
 fires and floods have destroyed it, and 
 impoverished its inhabitants. A great 
 inundation invaded it in 1851— '52, and it 
 was deluged by a break in the American 
 River levee in 1861-'G2. The citizens, 
 however, have never lost heart ; they 
 rebuilt their ruined dwellings and remade 
 the devastated streets. On each occasion, 
 the city became more beautiful and more 
 commodious. At present, the entire city 
 is in process of transformation. All pre- 
 vious efforts having proved futile to pro- 
 tect the locality from inundation when 
 the rains flooded the surrounding plains, 
 and the snow melted in the distant moun- 
 tains, a new and more venturesome course 
 was relied upon, and has since been pur- 
 sued. The expenditure upon embank- 
 ments was suspended, and the elevation 
 of the city to a height ten feet above 
 its original level was begun. Some of 
 the streets have been entirely raised to 
 the projected level, and others are in 
 course of being elevated to a correspond- 
 ing height. 
 
 Sacramento is the principal railway 
 centre of the State. It is situated in the 
 midst of.a prosperous agricultural region, 
 but owes its importance mainly to its fine 
 commercial position, being situated at the 
 head of tide navigation on the Sacramen- 
 to River, and being the terminus of the 
 Central Pacific, Sacramento Valley, Cali- 
 fornia & Oregon, and California Pa- 
 cific Railways. The works of the Central 
 Pacific Railway, the most important west 
 of Omaha, are located here. Several 
 hundred men are employed in construct- 
 ing cars, in putting together and repairing 
 locomotives. Other industries are car- 
 ried on successfully. Three flour-mills, 
 capable of supplying 1,200 barrels of Hour 
 daily, are at work within the city bounds. 
 A woollen-mill has just been built, and a 
 company has been constituted for manu- 
 facturing sugar from beet-root. 
 
 In size, Sacramento is the second city 
 in California, and has a population of 
 about 20,000. 
 
 The State-House or Capitol, is an im- 
 posing-looking building. The Yolo Bridge, 
 800 feel Inn-- and 28 feet wide, spans the 
 Sacramento River opposite I Street. Sac- 
 ramento has good schools and ehuivhes; 
 and shade-trees and shrubbery, surround- 
 
Mokemtmke.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [Latiiroi\ 
 
 ing the private residences, impart an at- 
 tractive and homelike appearance. 
 
 At Sacramento, where the river of that 
 name is joined by the American River, 
 the united streams form a broad but 
 shallow sheet of water. Not far from 
 this point the memorable discoveries of 
 gold were made in 1848. It is not true, 
 as is supposed by many, that this was the 
 first time the existence of gold in Cali- 
 fornia had been demonstrated. Many 
 years prior to these discoveries the In- 
 dians were in the habit of bringing small 
 parcels of gold-dust from the interior of 
 the coast, and selling them to the masters 
 of the vessels which then came for cargoes 
 of hides. 
 
 As already stated, the western terminus 
 of the Central Pacific Railway is at Sac- 
 ramento. This city occupies the place 
 at one end of the line which Omaha does 
 at the other. Just as several routes lead 
 from the South and East to Omaha, so 
 are there more routes than one between 
 Sacramento and San Francisco. For the 
 third time is the traveller embarrassed 
 by variety. He may select one of two 
 railways : a short-cut railroad to Vallejo 
 at the head of the bay, with a 20-mile 
 ferriage ; or the Pacific Railway's proper 
 prolongation around through Stockton 
 to Oakland, or he may elect to take the 
 steamer. His ticket gives him the option 
 of a land or water journey. The dif- 
 ference in time is trifling. The California 
 Steam Navigation Company's steamer 
 leaves Sacramento at two o'clock in the 
 afternoon, arriving at San Francisco at 
 ten o'clock the same night. The journey 
 from Sacramento to San Francisco is very 
 pleasant, but without special interest, 
 being for the most part through the 
 highly-cultivated valleys of the Sacra- 
 mento and San Joaquin. 
 
 Brighton, elevation 50 feet (1,780 miles), 
 the first station on the Western Pacific, is 
 passed, and Florin (1,784: miles), in the 
 neighborhood of which are numerous 
 windmills. We leave behind us Elk 
 Grove and McConnelVs, unimportant sta- 
 tions, and Gait (1,802 miles), from which 
 stages leave for the celebrated Calaveras 
 Big Trees, 70 miles distant (described in 
 the chapter on California). 
 
 MoEcelianiKC Mill, Cal. (1,810 
 miles), is a thriving settlement of about 
 
 1,500 inhabitants. It was one of the ear- 
 liest mining towns in California. Placer 
 mining is still carried on in the deep 
 banks and flats in the neighborhood. A 
 line of stages connects it with Stockton, 
 via San Andreas. 
 
 Just before coming into Stockton, the 
 next station, we pass on the right the 
 Stale Insane Asylum, a large and costly 
 building, standing in its own grounds of 
 100 acres. 
 
 Stockton, Cal. (1,823 miles), is 
 the commercial mart of San Joaquin Val- 
 ley and the southern mines, and is the 
 head of tide navigation on San Joaquin 
 River. It occupies a level site, and is 
 substantially and compactly built, with 
 handsome, wide streets and public build- 
 ings which speak of enterprise and taste. 
 The population is about 12,000. The 
 city is surrounded by the most extensive 
 and productive wheat-growing lands in 
 the State. During 1867, 864,233 bushels 
 of wheat were shipped from here to San 
 Francisco, and the entire agricultural 
 produce exported from Stockton during 
 the same period amounted to $2,234,119. 
 An artesian well near the centre of the 
 city supplies 360,000 gallons of water per 
 day, which rises 9 feet above the grade 
 of the city. 
 
 Stockton is connected, by railway, with 
 Sacramento on the north, Oakland on the 
 west, San Jose on the southwest, and a 
 railway is projected to connect it with 
 Visalia on the southeast, and steamers 
 run daily to San Francisco. From this 
 point tourists take stage for the Big Trees 
 of Calaveras, Yosemiie Valley, Mariposa, 
 and other places of interest in the eastern 
 and southeastern portions of the State. 
 {See chapter on California.) A good view 
 of Mount Diablo (see chapter on Cali- 
 fornia) is had at Stockton. 
 
 Lathrop, Cal. (1,831 miles), is 
 the junction of the Visalia Division of (he 
 Central Pacific Railway, a new route to 
 the Yosemite Valley and the Rig Trees 
 (see chapter on California). At Wilson's 
 Landing, near this place, on February 1, 
 1870, the Central Railway Company com- 
 menced laying the track of a branch 
 road up the St. Joaquin Valley. At 
 present writing (May, 1871) the road is 
 completed to Modesto, 20 miles distant. 
 
 Four miles beyond Lathrop we cross 
 119 
 
Ellis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Oakland. 
 
 the St. Joaquin River, on a draw-bridge, 
 and come in view of the Contra Costa 
 Mountains. A short ride now brings us 
 to Banta's (1,839 miles). 
 
 Kills, Cal. (1,841 miles), the next 
 station, lies in a beautiful valley. Four- 
 teen miles to the southeast are the Cor- 
 rall Hollow coal-mines, connected by rail 
 with this place. The grade from the last 
 station has increased 46 feet, and as the 
 ascent is becoming more and more diffi- 
 cult, on leaving Ellis, an additional en- 
 gine is attached to the train. At Mid- 
 way (1,850 miles), the elevation is 357 
 feet. The route is now through blurt's of 
 heavy sand and deep cuttings. We ob- 
 tain a view to our right of the old wagon- 
 road, and, still ascending, wind along a 
 tortuous path among canons and bluffs, 
 pass through the tunnel of Livermore 
 J'ass, and come out to find ourselves soon 
 at Altamont (1,858 miles). Elevation 
 740 feet. Leaving behind us Plcasanton 
 (1,872 miles), elevation 351 feet, we ar- 
 rive at 
 
 Niles, Cal. (1,884 miles). On our 
 journey from the Livermore Pass, we 
 have been rapidly descending, and at this 
 station the elevation is only 86 feet. We 
 are now in the beautiful and fertile Ala- 
 meda Valley. Southward, 7 miles by 
 rail, are the celebrated Warm Sprinffs of 
 Alameda Couuty (see chapter on Cali- 
 fornia). 
 
 l>ecota, Cal. (1,886 miles), is a 
 pretty village of suburban residences. 
 On a clear day the city of San Francisco 
 (26 miles distant) can be seen from this 
 station. 
 
 After passing San Leandro (1,899 
 miles), we arrive at Simpson's (1,903 
 miles), where the train stops, and, to 
 guard against accidents, crosses the track 
 of the San Francisco & Alameda Railway. 
 Four miles to the left is the town of Ala- 
 meda. 
 
 Alameda is a pleasant village of some 
 1,500 inhabitants, on the eastern shore 
 of San Francisco Ray, about 2 miles 
 from Oakland, and 12 miles from San 
 Francisco. It is the western terminus 
 of the Sctn Francisco <fe Alameda Jinil- 
 toay, and connects with San Francisco by 
 ferry-boats ;is well as by rail, and with 
 the Central Railway, at Simpson's and 
 Haywood's, 10 miles distant. It is cele- 
 120 
 
 brated for its beautiful groves of oaks, 
 and many fine parks, of which the " En- 
 cinal" is the largest and most frequented. 
 
 Two miles travel from Simpson's 
 brings us to Brooklyn. We are now 
 fast reaching our goal, and, crossing a 
 bridge, pass along the edge of the Lay 
 of San Francisco, and soon find ourselves 
 running slowly under the beautiful oaks 
 in Oakland, the rural suburb and school- 
 house of San Francisco. 
 
 Oakland, Cal. (1,910 miles), is 
 the principal town on the eastern shore 
 of San Francisco Bay, almost directly 
 opposite " The Golden City " itself. The 
 city owes its name to its magnificent 
 groves of five oaks, in which it was 
 originally built ; but it has. now grown 
 far beyond their limits, and is rapidly ex- 
 panding in a northerly direction. These 
 trees are not merely ornamental, but 
 really subserve a useful purpose lor parts 
 of the town, in screening them from the 
 fierce winds that in the summer come 
 through the gap of the Golden Gate, and 
 to the force of which Oakland is espe- 
 cially exposed. The population is about 
 11,000. Oakland is noted for its many 
 fine schools and academies. Among 
 them are the University of California, 
 temporarily located here while its new 
 "earthquake-proof" building, erecting 
 in Berkeley, four miles distant, at the 
 base of the Contra Costa Mountains, is 
 being finished ; the State University 
 School, the Oakland Military School, the 
 Female College of the Pacific, the Oak- 
 land Female Seminary, and the convent 
 of " Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." 
 
 The. University of California, now 
 (1873) in its fourth year, consists of va- 
 rious colleges, namely, College of Arts, 
 College of Letters, and professional and 
 other colleges. The following colleges 
 have already been organized : State Col- 
 lege of Agriculture, State College of Me- 
 chanic Arts, State College of Mines, State 
 College of Civil Engineering, State Col- 
 lege of Letters, anil State College of 
 Medicine. The first four named are col- 
 leges of arts. Each college confers a 
 proper degree at the end of the course 
 upon such Students as are found, upon 
 examination, to be proficient in the stud- 
 ies of the course. All instruction in the 
 undergraduate departments of the uni- 
 
Oakland.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [San Fkancisco. 
 
 wharf, is on the east side of San Fran- 
 cisco. It is 11,000 feet long, and run3 
 out to a depth of 24 feet at low tide, and 
 of 31 feet at high tide, having twelve 
 railroad tracks upon its last 1,000 feet, 
 a wide carriage-way, a passenger depot 
 and railroad-offices, warehouses, and out- 
 side storage for 40,000 tons of grain or 
 other merchandise, and three large docks, 
 one of which affords ample space for five 
 of the largest steamers or clippers afloat. 
 The piles used, where the water deepens, 
 are G5 feet long, and are 42 to 54 inches 
 in circumference. The main wharf is 
 800 feet wide at the extreme or western 
 end, and on it are pens for 500 cattle, 
 two immense warehouses (one 50 x 500, 
 another 50 x 600), with the passenger 
 depot, 70 x 305 in size. 
 
 In passing over the wharf, we obtain a 
 good view of the bay. To the right, in 
 the distance, we see the mountains of 
 Marin County, the loftiest of which is 
 Mount Tamalpais, 2,000 feet high. (See 
 chapter on California.) 
 
 versity is free. In the College of Medi- 
 cine the lecturers receive the usual fees. 
 The university is for the benefit of the 
 people of the State. 
 
 The State Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, 
 and Blind, is an imposing-looking build- 
 ing near Berkeley, a shore distance from 
 the university. It is constructed of 
 stone, is three stories high, and stands 
 300 feet above the bay, of which it com- 
 mands a fine view. Potter's gardens are 
 an attractive feature of Oakland. The 
 city is well lighted with gas, has broad, 
 well-paved streets, and has a good supply 
 of water from a creek five miles distant. 
 It has numerous churches, supports three 
 daily newspapers, and has several horse- 
 railroads. The drives around Oakland 
 are very beautiful, being equal, in wild 
 and romantic scenery, to those of San 
 Francisco, and good roads penetrate the 
 surrounding country in every direction. 
 
 Lines of ferry-boats, even larger than 
 those of the Brooklyn and Jersey City fer- 
 ries, run across the bay, and in the morn- 
 ing and evening they are equally crowded 
 with* passengers. The distance across is 
 five miles, and, there being extensive flats 
 in front of Oakland, the railroad wharf 
 at which the boat lands is already ex- 
 tended out nearly a mile from the shore 
 to deep water. The company is endeav- 
 oring to get the Government to cede to 
 it Goat Island, which lies precisely half- 
 way between San Francisco and Oakland, 
 on which it desires to erect a grand de- 
 pot, and continue its wharf to the island. 
 There being deep water all around the 
 island, it could here have wharves for the 
 accommodation of China and India vessels, 
 which, it is anticipated, will soon use 
 this highway across the continent to trans- 
 ship their goods to the East as well as to 
 Europe. The citizens of San Francisco 
 are opposed to the cession, and the scheme 
 seems to be defeated for the present. 
 
 Our train passes through the city, two 
 miles to Oakland Point, where we ride 
 over the immense pier lately built by the 
 Central Pacific Railway Company, for 
 more than two miles and a quarter over 
 the bay, to the ferry-boat which conveys 
 passengers and freight to the city of San 
 Francisco at the foot of Second Street, 
 from which we are now three miles dis- 
 tant. This wonderful pier, or rather 
 6 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Tnis large and flourishing city, the 
 metropolis of the Pacific coast, is situated 
 on the western side of the Bay of San 
 Francisco, at the north end of a peniusula 
 formed by the Pacific Ocean on the west, 
 and the Bay of San Francisco on the east, 
 in latitude 37° 48' N. 
 
 The early history of San Francisco is 
 interesting on account of the rapid growth 
 of the place. The first house was built 
 in 1835, when the village was called Yer- 
 ba Buena, which in Spanish signifies good 
 herb, so named from a medicinal plant 
 growing in abundance in the vicinity. 
 In 1847 this was changed to San Fran- 
 cisco, and in 1848, the year that gold was 
 first discovered in California by the white 
 settlers, the population had grown to 
 1,000. The influx from the East then 
 commenced, and in December, 1850, the 
 population was about 25,000. From this 
 small beginning it has steadily increased, 
 with some temporary drawbacks, until 
 in 1860 the population was 56,802, and 
 in 1S70 it reached 149,482, including 
 about 20,000 Chinese and about 1,500 
 negroes, and exclusive of a floating popu- 
 lation of about 8,000. As an illustration 
 121 
 
HaXL Hoods 
 Omni&usZines 
 
 To accompany Appleton*a Hand-Booh 
 
 Of Travel. Western Tour. 
 
 i milt apart.— Centre, Portsmouth Square. 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Fkancisco. 
 
 of the extent of the business of the city, 
 it may be stated that the manufacturing 
 establishments now in operation in San 
 Francisco number upward of 800, em- 
 ploying a capital of $17,000,000, con- 
 suming annually material of the value of 
 $23,000,000, and producing goods worth 
 §45,000,000. In three months of 1871, 
 San Francisco imported 10,700,304 lbs. 
 of rice, 15,936,865 pounds of sugar, 
 2,786,196 pounds of coflee, and 883,742 
 of tea direct from the Pacific. In 1870 
 it exported 15,000,000 pounds of wool. 
 "Other things," says a traveller,* "than 
 the increase of the population and the 
 enlargement of the city have made the 
 growth of San Francisco an event without 
 a parallel, either in America or in any 
 other quarter of the habitable globe. Its 
 name had become synonymous for all that 
 was most shameless in profligacy, for all 
 that was basest in depravity, for all that 
 was wanton and brutal in ruffianism. In 
 the open day men were murdered with 
 impunity. At night the property of the 
 citizens was at the mercy of the lawless. 
 The scum of Polynesia, desperadoes from 
 Australia, bullies and blackguards from 
 the wild State of Missouri, Spanish cut- 
 throats from the cities of the Pacific 
 coast, dissolute women and reckless ad- 
 venturers from the slums of Europe, con- 
 gregated in San Francisco, and there plied 
 their several avocations and followed their 
 devious courses in defiance of the prohi- 
 bitions of a law which had lost its terrors 
 for them, and in disregard of any other 
 check save the revolver or the bowie- 
 knife. At that time, San Francisco was 
 one-half a brothel, and one-half a gaming- 
 hell. There came a crisis in the annals 
 of the city when the action of the law 
 was forcibly impeded, in order that the 
 reign of law might be restored. A Vigi- 
 lance Committee discharged the fourfold 
 functions of police, judge, jury, and execu- 
 tioner. A short shrift and lofty gallows was 
 the fate of the criminal whom they took in 
 the act of committing robbery or murder. 
 The remedy was strong and dangerous. 
 But the symptoms were so threatening as 
 to inspire fear lest what men call civiliza- 
 tion should cease to exist, and no peril 
 incurred in applying the remedy was 
 
 * W. F. Eae, in " Westward by Rail" > 
 
 122 
 
 comparable to the risk of allowing the 
 disease to spread and become intensified. 
 Never, perhaps, in the history of the 
 world, did the result more completely jus- 
 tify the means employed than in the case 
 of San Francisco. The Vigilance Com- 
 mittee discharged its duties with unre- 
 lenting severity so long as professional 
 thieves and systematic murderers were 
 at large triumphing in their crimes. As 
 soon, however, as order was restored, the 
 Vigilance Committee decreed its own dis- 
 solution, and the dispensers of summary 
 justice became conspicuous for their 
 obedience to the administrators of the 
 law. From being a by-word for its law- 
 lessness and licentiousness, the city of 
 San Francisco has become, in little more 
 than ten years, as moral as Philadelphia, 
 and far more orderly than New York." 
 
 Market Street is the starting-point for 
 the numbering of buildings on the streets 
 running therefrom in a northerly and 
 southerly direction, and the water front 
 for those in a westerly direction. One 
 hundred numbers are allowed for each 
 block between principal streets : for' ex- 
 ample, if one wishes to go to 624 Mont- 
 gomery Street, he will find it on the east 
 side of the block extending from Clay 
 Street to Washington Street, which is the 
 seventh from Market Street — Commercial 
 and Merchant Streets being private 
 streets. Again: 825 Clay Street is above 
 the eighth block from the water front, 
 which is the one extending from Dupont 
 Street to Stockton Street. 
 
 Montgomery Street, the leading thorough- 
 fare, is a handsome street, and is usually 
 thronged with pedestrians. At its northern 
 end it extends to the top of a steep hill. 
 The latter portion is so precipitous that 
 carriages cannot ascend it. A flight of 
 steps enables the foot-passenger to mount 
 with comparative ease. From the top a 
 commanding view is had of the bay, the 
 opposite coast, and the business quarter 
 of the city. On California Street the 
 principal banks, and brokers' and in- 
 surance offices, are located. 
 
 The view from Telegraph I/1H, '200 feet 
 high, at the northern extremity of the 
 city, is unsurpassed. It embraces at 
 once the city, stretching along the BPJfli- 
 amphitheatre of hills, and overflowing 
 the depressions toward the Presidio on 
 
S. Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Feancisco. 
 
 the west and the Amission on the south, 
 both arms of and the entrance to the bay, 
 including the island of Alcatraz, which is 
 fortified ; Angel Island, over 700 feet in 
 height ; and Verba Buena (Goat Island), 
 the mountains of Marin County on the 
 north, with the Peak of Tamalpais, 
 2,600 feet high ; and the Contra Costa 
 Range on the east, with Monte Diablo 
 rising in the background to a height of 
 3,700 feet. The summits of Russian and 
 Rincon Hills, and the Shot Tower, 200 
 feet high, on the corner of Shelby and 
 First Streets, also afford fine views. 
 
 The great sea-wall of San Francisco, 
 now building, will extend along the entire 
 water-front of the city, from Chestnut 
 Street on the north to Harrison Street on 
 the south, a distance of 8,340 feet. It is 
 estimated that it will cost $2,500,000. 
 The wall is 100 feet wide at the bot- 
 tom, the foundation being laid 25 feet 
 below low-water mark. The top, which 
 is 65 feet wide, is on the level of the 
 city grade, and is laid with three-inch 
 plank, a large portion of which has been 
 preserved by a process which renders it 
 impervious to the effects of the weather. 
 All the streets along the city front have 
 a uniform width of one hundred and fifty 
 feet. 
 
 WATER-WORKS. 
 
 The Spring Valley Water Company 
 supplies the city with water at the pres- 
 ent time. The water is brought from 
 Lobos Creek, Pillarcitos Creek, and from 
 Lake Honda. Lobos Creek is a stream of 
 pure fresh water emptying into the Bay 
 near Point Lobos. The stream is three 
 and a half miles distant from the centre 
 of the city in a straight line. The water 
 is elevated into the two distributing res- 
 ervoirs, built on the hills 300 feet above 
 the city level. The capacity of these 
 reservoirs is 11,000,000 gallons per day. 
 
 Pillarcitos Creek is situated east of the 
 Coast Range of Mountains about fifteen 
 miles southerly from San Francisco. A 
 large dam has been constructed in the 
 Pillarcitos Valley 92 feet high, and 600 
 feet loug, containing 1,000,000,000 gal- 
 lons, and is drawn from as required by 
 the city reservoirs. 
 
 Lake Honda has a capacity of 35,000,- 
 000 gallons, and supplies the city by 
 
 means of three miles of cast-iron pipes to 
 the reservoir on Market Street, corner of 
 Buchanan, which contains two million 
 gallons. 
 
 Several new organizations have been 
 recently formed for the purpose of pro- 
 viding for a greater supply of water as 
 the rapidly-increasing population of San 
 Francisco may require, including a pro- 
 ject to bring water from Lake Tahoe, 
 one hundred and fifty miles distant from 
 San Francisco. 
 
 HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, AND CLUBS. 
 
 Hotels. — San Francisco is well sup- 
 plied with first-class hotels, equal if not 
 superior to those of any other city of 
 like population, and in the elegance, 
 comfort, and extent of their accommoda- 
 tions, unsurpassed by those of any city in 
 the Union. 
 
 The first-class hotels are : the Grand, 
 Occidental, and Lick House, on Mont- 
 gomery, and the Cosmopolitan on Bush 
 Street. Three dollars per day is the 
 charge at these places. At the Russ House, 
 on Montgomery, American Exchange, on 
 Sansome, and Brooklyn Hotel, on Bush, 
 the traveller will find excellent accom- 
 modations for from $1.75 to $2.50 per 
 day. 
 
 The Grand Hotel, Johnson & Co., pro- 
 prietors, situated on Market Street, corner 
 of New Montgomery, is built with a view 
 to elegance and comfort. It has a front 
 of 205 feet on Market Street, and 335 
 feet on New Montgomery Street. The 
 style of decoration is elaborately ornate. 
 The building is three stories in height, 
 and there is a fourth story in the Man- 
 sard roof. The rooms are arranged in 
 suites. 
 
 The Occidental Hotel, on the east side 
 of Montgomery Street, extending from 
 Bush to Sutter Street, is well provided 
 with all the accommodations of a first- 
 class house. 
 
 The Lick House, on Montgomery Street, 
 between Post and Sutter Streets, John 
 M. Lawler k, Co., is a favorite hotel. 
 
 The Cosmopolitan Hotel, Tubbs & Pat- 
 ten, proprietors, location southeast corner 
 of Bush and Sansome Streets. A great 
 many families reside here permanently, 
 preferring it to others, it being rather 
 more retired than the Montgomery Street 
 123 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Francisco. 
 
 hotels. It is a large house, and well 
 kept. 
 
 The Jiuss House, Pearson & Seymour, 
 on the west side of Montgomery Street, 
 from Pine to Bush Streets, is an old- 
 established hotel, and is preferred by 
 many to the more modern structures of 
 greater elegance. 
 
 The American Exchange, T. Sargent, 
 proprietor, 319 Sansome Street. 
 
 The Brooklyn Hotel, Kelly & Wood, 
 210 Bush Street, near Sacramento Street. 
 
 The International Hotel, 532 Jackson 
 Street, near Montgomery, is one of the 
 old hotels, and is well known to ike early 
 visitors of San Francisco. 
 
 The Continental Hotel, Pacific Street, 
 between Montgomery and Kearney Sts., 
 Herman Droste, proprietor, gives special 
 attention to the accommodation of fami- 
 lies. The " table " is good, and the 
 charges moderate. 
 
 There are many cheap lodging-houses 
 where comfortable rooms may be had for 
 from 25 to 50 cents per night ; the most 
 frequented of these being the What Cheer, 
 on Sacramento Street, formerly the best 
 hotel in the city. 
 
 Besides the hotels enumerated, more 
 than a hundred could be mentioned of 
 more or less note in different parts of the 
 city, each having its crowd of customers, 
 and also many of particular nationalities, 
 such as French, German, Italian, Swiss, 
 etc. 
 
 Restaurants. — In San Francisco, res- 
 taurants are a peculiar feature of the 
 place, which might justly be called the 
 City of Restaurants. Probably no city 
 in the world, certainly none in the United 
 States, can compare with San Francisco 
 in this respect. Restaurants, chop-houses, 
 rotisserics, abound in every part. A great 
 many are first class, and so much on a 
 par, that it is difficult for us to make a 
 selection. In former times the greater 
 part of the population took their meals 
 at these places, and large numbers, fami- 
 lies as well as individuals, still continue 
 the practice. Many have never lived in 
 any other way. Chop-houses and rotis- 
 serics differ somewhat from restaurants. 
 In the former the cooking-furnaces are 
 arranged on one side of the room, ami a 
 person coming in can make a selection of 
 the raw food, ami have it cooked right 
 121 
 
 before his eyes. This mode suits many who 
 are fastidious and do not mind whether 
 a dinner costs a trifle more or less. 
 
 The inferior restaurants in the bu 
 parts of the city arc frequented mostly 
 by men, but families, and ladies with 
 gentlemen, can with propriety visit the 
 first and second class restaurants ; the 
 same decorum being observed by those 
 who frequent them as obtains in the 
 dining-room of a first-class hotel. The 
 restaurants which have rooms appro- 
 priated exclusively for ladies are generally 
 second or third rate. 
 
 Besides these, there are also table 
 d'hOtes, kept mostly by the French, 
 where, by paying 50 cents, 75 cents, or a 
 dollar, one can sit at the table and call 
 for any thing he likes, provided it is on 
 the bill of fare, including wine, coffee, and 
 tea. 
 
 Martin's Restaurant, on Commercial 
 Street, between Montgomery and Kearney, 
 is noted for providing excellent suppers 
 for private parties ; rooms being espe- 
 cially set apart for that purpose. 
 
 There are also numerous establish- 
 ments of an extensive character where 
 sleeping accommodations are furnished 
 by the day or week at a moderate charge. 
 Restaurants may or may not be con- 
 nected with these lodging-houses ; but 
 they are entirely distinct in their manage- 
 ment, and often under different proprie- 
 tors. 
 
 Clubs. — The Union Club, incorporated 
 in 1865; rooms 403 Montgomery Street, 
 corner of California. This club, formed 
 and carried on for the use, profit, and 
 entertainment of its members, is complete 
 in all that appertains to a well-conducted 
 club-house. 
 
 San, Francisco Olympic Club, 35 Sutter 
 Street, is a popular and flourishing asso- 
 ciation, numbering over 500 members. It 
 has regularly-organized classes in gym- 
 nastics, boxing, and fencing. The new 
 rooms of the society are extensive and 
 complete, and admirably adapted to the 
 objects in view. 
 
 San Francisco Verein, incorporated in 
 1853 ; rooms 428 Fine Street. The read- 
 ing-room is supplied with the full number 
 of newspapers and all the leading maga- 
 zines and periodicals. The library num- 
 bers over 5,000 volumes. 
 
S. Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Fuancisi-o. 
 
 Pacific Turner Bund, organized in 
 1 85!) ; rooms at Turnverein Hall, 
 O'Farrell Street, between Mason and Tay- 
 lor. This is an organization of the dif- 
 ferent Turnvereins of the Pacific Coast. 
 Its objects are the cultivation of gym- 
 nastic exercises generally, and to facili- 
 tate as much as possible the establish- 
 ment of new Turnvereins. 
 
 Society of California Pioneers, Fioneer 
 Hall, Montgomery Street, near Jackson, 
 organized in 1850. This society numbers 
 about 1,400 members. Its objects are 
 to collect and preserve information con- 
 nected with the early settlement of the 
 country, and to perpetuate the memory 
 of the early settlers. The society pos- 
 sesses au excellent library and reading- 
 room, and has a collection of many in- 
 teresting relics of early times. 
 
 The Caledonian Club, organized in 18(56, 
 numbers over 400 members, who meet 
 once a month at the hall, No. 234 Sutter 
 Street, near Kearney. Its objects are 
 social intercourse, and the perpetuation 
 of the national sports of Scotland. An 
 annual exhibition is given, and prizes 
 awarded to those who excel in the Scot- 
 tish athletic games. These exhibitions 
 are well attended, and always interesting. 
 
 There are a great many other clubs and 
 associations in San Francisco, each hav- 
 ing some particular object in view, such 
 as yachting, rowing, manly exercises, or 
 social improvement, and all are more or 
 less flourishing. 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 The Street Railroads now intersect the 
 city in every direction. The cars of the 
 Omnibus Railway Company run from 
 north to south through different streets, 
 as do also those of the North Beach <£ 
 Mission Railway Company, with lines ex- 
 tending from the business centre to the 
 southwest quarter of the city, the old 
 Spanish settlement of the Mission Dolo- 
 res (see page 134). The Central Rail- 
 way Company, and the Front Street <& 
 Ocean Company, run from the city front 
 through the central portion of the city, 
 with branches to the extreme northern, 
 western, and southern suburbs. The 
 Market Street Company, the pioneer rail- 
 road, intersects the city from northeast 
 to southwest, with a branch to the Pavil- 
 
 ion at Hay's Valley. The City Railway, 
 a new company, runs from New Mont- 
 gomery and Market Street to Twenty- 
 sixth street. The Potrero & Bay- View 
 Railway connects with the North Beach 
 and Mission on Fourth Street, crosses 
 Mission Bay, running over the Long 
 Bridge of Islais Creek by South San Fran- 
 cisco to Bay View. A branch of the 
 City Front & Ocean Railway runs from 
 Polk Street to Laurel Hill Cemetery (Lone 
 Mountain) (see page 131), and another 
 branch from Broadway to Harbor View, 
 near the Presidio (see page 135), making 
 this road with its branches the longest 
 in the city. The aggregate length of 
 these railroads is about 50 miles. The 
 cars are run with especial reference to 
 the convenience of travellers. Passen- 
 gers can obtain transfer tickets to reach 
 the most distant parts of the city with- 
 out extra charge. In the evening, one 
 car of each of the principal lines, called 
 the theatre car, always waits until the 
 theatres are out. 
 
 FERKIES. 
 
 San Francisco and Oakland, foot of 
 Pacific Street. — First boat leaves at 6.50 
 a. m. Last boat at 11.30 p. M. 
 
 San Francisco and San Antonio, foot 
 of Pacific Street (Creek route). — First 
 boat leaves at 9.30 a. m. Last boat, 3.30 
 p. M. 
 
 San Francisco and Alameda, from Da- 
 vis Street, near Broadway. — First boat, 
 7.20 a. m. Last boat, 7 p. m. 
 
 Contra Costa, foot of Vallejo Street. — 
 Boats leave morning and afternoon. 
 
 San Quentin, foot of Broadway. — First 
 boat leaves at 9.30 a. m. Last boat, C.30 
 p. M. 
 
 Sancelito Ferry, Meigs's Wharf. — First 
 boat leaves at 10 a. m. Last boat, 6 p. m. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 The principal places of amusement are 
 found in the immediate neighborhood of 
 Montgomery and Kearney Streets, and 
 may be reached by either of the street rail- 
 roads that run through the central por- 
 tion of the city. The performances arc 
 generally concluded in time for the audi- 
 ence to meet the cars before 1 1 o'clock, 
 p. M. 
 
 The California Theatre, Barrett and 
 125 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Fkancisco. 
 
 McCullough, managers, Bush Street, just 
 above Kearney, is one of the most elegant 
 places of amusement on the Facific coast. 
 It is devoted to the representation of 
 tragedy and the legitimate drama. 
 
 The Metropolitan Theatre, William H. 
 Lyon, proprietor. Montgomery Street, 
 between Washington and Jackson Streets. 
 This is one of the oldest theatres on the 
 coast. It has a large and commodious 
 stage, and one of the finest auditoriums 
 in the United States. 
 
 Maguire's Opera-House, Thomas Ma- 
 guirc, manager, Washington Street, near 
 Montgomery. The performances arc most- 
 ly opera bouffe, and burlesques. 
 
 Alhambra Theatre, W. H. Smith, man- 
 ager, Bush Street, between Montgomery 
 and Kearney Streets. Devoted to bur- 
 lesque, negro minstrelsy, and ballet. 
 
 Bella Union Theatre, Samuel Tetlow, 
 manager, Kearney Street, near Washing- 
 ton. 
 
 Chinese Theatres, cast side Dupont 
 Street, between Clay and Washington 
 Streets ; and north side Jackson Street, 
 between Kearney and Dupont. At these 
 theatres the performance is carried on 
 amid the clashing of cymbals, the beat- 
 ing of drums, the blowing of trumpets, 
 and other kinds of noise. (Sec page 131.) 
 
 City Gardens, Folsom Street, between 
 Twelfth and Thirteenth Streets. 
 
 WoodjvareVs Gardens, R. B. Wood- 
 ward, proprietor, north side of Mission 
 Street, between Thirteenth and Four- 
 teenth Streets. This is a pleasant, pop- 
 ular place of resort, being the "Bar- 
 num's " of the Facific coast. Among its 
 many attractions are a Museum of Cu- 
 riosities, an Art Callcry, and a Menagerie. 
 The grounds arc handsomely laid out. 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 San Francisco is well supplied with li- 
 braries, and in this respect may challenge 
 competition with any city of its age in 
 any part of the world. Statistics of 
 these institutions show, beyond question, 
 that the San Franciscans arc a reading 
 people. 
 
 Mercantile Library Association building 
 is a large and beautiful edifice on Bush 
 Street, between Montgomery and Sansome 
 Streets. The rooms are spacious, well 
 arranged, and elegantly furnished. The 
 12G 
 
 number of volumes is over 30,000, all 
 judiciously selected, and new books arc 
 constantly being added. The reading- 
 room is supplied with all the leading 
 newspapers and periodicals, local, do- 
 mestic, and foreign. 
 
 Odd-Fellows' Library Association, Odd- 
 Fellows' Hall, 325 and 327 Montgomery 
 Street. This library was organized in 
 
 1854, and contains now over 18,000 vol- 
 umes. In the reading-room may be found 
 the leading journals of the day. 
 
 Mechanics , Institute Library occupies 
 a large, substantial building on Fost 
 Street, between Montgomery and Kearney 
 Streets. The library was organized in 
 
 1855. It contains now over 18,000 vol- 
 umes, very large proportion of which are 
 works of a scientific character. The read- 
 ing-room is supplied with a well-selected 
 assortment of magazines and newspapers 
 from different parts of the world. 
 
 The San Francisco Law Library rooms, 
 in Montgomery Block, are commodious, 
 well arranged, and provided with the 
 legal standard publications of the day. 
 The library contains over 5,000 volumes, 
 comprising those of every department of 
 legal science, together with complete re- 
 ports of American, English, and Scotch 
 decisions. 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 There are over seventy places of wor- 
 ship in the city, and they are generally 
 well attended on Sunday ; but in a city 
 so cosmopolitan as San Francisco the 
 different classes of society spend Sunday 
 in very different ways. With some it is 
 a favorite day for pleasure-excursions. 
 The German Turnvereins and military 
 companies frequently make excursions to 
 the suburbs or across the bay on Sunday, 
 but in such cases they generally leave 
 early in the morning, and the city proper 
 ia remarkably quiet through the day. 
 
 The churches of San Francisco are 
 built more with reference to size and con- 
 venience than to architectural beauty. 
 There are some few handsome buildings, 
 and more that are fitted up with great 
 elegance inside, but not very many that 
 would attract particular notice from their 
 exterior appearance. Wc shall notice 
 the most prominent of each denomina- 
 tion : 
 
p. Francisco.] OMAIIA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Francisco 
 
 EriSCOPAL. 
 
 Grace Church, corner California and 
 Stockton Streets. Rev. James S. Bush, 
 rector. This is sometimes called Grace 
 Cathedral, the bishop of the diocese hav- 
 ing been rector at different times. It 
 is a very handsome stone building, with 
 stained-glass windows. 
 
 Trinity Church, corner of Post and 
 Powell Streets, is a large Gothic frame 
 building, with tower and spire. The 
 interior is handsomely finished. Rev. 
 Theodore II. Lyman, D. D., rector; Rev. 
 Charles II. Turner, assistant minister. 
 
 Church of the Advent, Howard Street, 
 between Second and Third, opposite New 
 Montgomery Street. Rev. II. I). Lathrop, 
 rector. 
 
 ROHAN CATHOLIC. 
 
 St. Mary's Cathedral, northeast corner 
 California and Dupont Streets. The Most 
 Rev. Joseph S. Alemany, archbishop ; 
 the Very Rev. James Croke, vice-gen- 
 eral ; the Rev. J. Prendergast, pastor ; 
 and the Rev. T. O'Callahan, assistant. 
 This is a noble building, 75 feet wide, 
 fronting on California Street, and 130 
 deep on Dupont Street. Until St. Patrick's 
 new church was built, it was the largest 
 in the State. The tower at present is 
 135 feet high, and when completed with 
 the proposed spire will be 200 feet high. 
 The style of architecture is Gothic, which 
 has been fully carried out in all the de- 
 tails. The main building is to be enlarged 
 by adding 30 feet to its length. 
 
 St. Patrick' 1 s Church, north side of Mis- 
 sion Street, between Third and Fourth, 
 Rev. Peter J. Grey, pastor, is a large 
 and elegant structure, not yet quite com- 
 pleted. Services are temporarily held 
 in the basement. This is designed to be 
 the grandest church-building on the Pa- 
 cific coast, as it is the largest in size ; 
 the cost will far exceed all estimates, 
 reaching pi-obably to $250,000. Its di- 
 mensions are 90 feet front by 160 feet 
 in depth. The walls are of brick, of 
 great thickness and strength, and from 
 the basement to the eaves of the wings 
 are 30 feet in height. From the wings 
 rise the walls of the main building, rest- 
 ing on iron pillars, and a roof of slate 
 frith a peak 100 feet above the pavement. 
 The front entrance is through a brick 
 
 tower 120 feet high, surmounted by a 
 wooden spire, the total height of which 
 is 240 feet, making it the loftiest spire in 
 the State, and surpassed by but very few 
 in America. 
 
 St. Francis's Church, north side of Val- 
 lejo Street, between Dupont and Stockton, 
 Rev. James H. Aerden, pastor, and Rev. 
 J. Valentini, assistant. This was the first 
 Roman Catholic church organized in the 
 city. A frame building was put up 
 in 1849. The present large and elegant 
 structure was erected in 1859-60. It is 
 built of brick, in the Gothic style of 
 architecture, and has four projecting 
 towers, each ninety feet high. 
 
 St. Ignatius's Church, south side of 
 Market Street, between Fourth and Fifth. 
 Served by the Fathers of the Society of 
 Jesus, connected with St. Ignatius's Col- 
 lege (see p. 130). 
 
 Church of the Mission Dolores, south- 
 west corner of Sixteenth and Dolores 
 Streets. Rev. Thomas Cushing, pastor; 
 Rev. William Bowman, assistant (see p. 
 134). 
 
 Si. Joseph's Church, west side of Tenth 
 Street, between Folsom and Howard. 
 Rev. II. P. Gallagher, pastor ; Rev. Joseph 
 A. Gallagher, Rev. A. Cullen, and Rev. 
 John McNully, assistants. This is a large 
 and elegantly-finished building, in the 
 cruciform Gothic style. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN. 
 
 First Presbyterian Church, west side 
 of Stockton Street, between Washington 
 and Clay. Rev. J. K. Smith, pastor. 
 
 Calvary Presbyterian Church, north- 
 west corner of Geary and Powell Streets, 
 Rev. John Hemphill, pastor, is a large 
 and costly edifice, measuring 76 feet on 
 Powell Street, and 116 feet on Geary 
 Street. Its appearance is rather peculiar, 
 being that of a combination of different 
 styles of architecture, the Grecian pre- 
 dominating. It has ten small towers ris- 
 ing above the roof. 
 
 St. John's Presbyterian Church, north 
 side of Post Street, between Mason and 
 Taylor. Rev. W. A. Scott, pastor. This 
 beautiful place of worship was purchased 
 from the St. James's Episcopal Parish, 
 and has since been very much improved 
 and elegantly fitted up. 
 
 127 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Francisco. 
 
 METnODIST. 
 
 First Methodist Episcopal Church, west 
 Bide of Powell Street, between Washing- 
 ton and Jackson. Rev. II. Cox, D. D., 
 pastor. This church was organized in 
 1819, and is the oldest of the denomina- 
 tion in the city. 
 
 Howard Street Methodist Episcopal 
 Church, south side of Howard Street, be- 
 tween Second and Third. Rev. L. Walker, 
 pastor. 
 
 Broadway German Methodist Episcopal 
 Church, north side of Broadway, between 
 Stockton and Powell. Rev. Frederick 
 Brown, pastor. 
 
 German Methodist Episcopal Church, 
 Folsom Street, between Fourth and Fifth. 
 Rev. H. Breuck, pastor. 
 
 Bush Street Mctliodist Episcopal Church, 
 Bush Street, near Devisadero. Rev. E. 
 S. Todd, pastor. 
 
 African Methodist Episcopal Church, 
 west side of Powell Street, between Jack- 
 son and Pacific. 
 
 First Baptist Church, north side of 
 Washington Street, between Dupont and 
 Stockton. Rev. A. R. Medbury, pastor. 
 
 Columbia Square Baptist Church, west 
 side of Russ Street, between Howard and 
 Folsom. Rev. D. S. Watson, D. D., pas- 
 tor. 
 
 Tliird Baptist Church [negro), east side 
 of Powell Street, between Bush and Sut- 
 ter. Rev. J. R. Young, pastor. 
 
 JEWISH SYNAGOGUES. 
 
 Congregation Emanu-El, north side of 
 Sutter Street, between Stockton and Pow- 
 ell. Rev. Elkan Cohn, rabbi. This is a 
 large, elegant, and substantial structure, 
 built of brick, with two lofty towers. 
 The building, including the lot, cost 
 $185,000. It is finished inside with 
 elegance and luxury, and all the arrange- 
 ments are chaste and appropriate. 
 
 Congregation Ohabai Shalome, east side 
 of Mason Street, between Geary and Post. 
 Rev. Jacob Frcnkcl, rabbi. A very hand- 
 some edifice, built substantially of brick. 
 The interior arrangements are appropri- 
 ate and imposing, and present a very 
 beautiful appearance. 
 
 Congregation Sherith Israel, corner of 
 Post and Taylor Streets. Rev. Dr. A. J. 
 128 
 
 Messing, rabbi. A largo ami commodious 
 building, and a very pleasing architectu- 
 ral ornament of the city. The interior is 
 tastefully and elegantly finished. The 
 lofty ceiling, arched and frescoed in imi- 
 tation of the sky at night, dazzling with 
 stars, presents a most beautiful appear- 
 ance. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Mariners' Church, northeast corner 
 of Sacramento and Drumm Streets. Rev. 
 Joseph Rowell, pastor. This church was 
 organized for the religious instruction 
 and moral improvement of seafaring men, 
 and is strictly an undenominational mis- 
 sionary church. Connected with it are a 
 Bible-class, a Sunday-school,- a Sunday 
 reading-room, and weekly meetings are 
 held of the Marine Temperance Society. 
 The members of the church organization 
 distribute Bibles, and perform other mis- 
 sionary work at the United States Marino 
 Hospital, about the wharves and shipping, 
 on board men-of-war, and other sea-going 
 vessels. 
 
 First Reformed Church ( German), place 
 of worship, Excelsior Hall, *711 Mission 
 Street. Rev. Frederick Fox, pastor. 
 
 Greek Church; place of worship, Oil 
 Jackson Street. His Grace, Johannes, 
 bishop ; Rev. Paul Kedrolivansky, arch- 
 priest ; Rev. Nicholas Kovrigin, pastor. 
 
 First Congregational Church, south- 
 west corner of California and Dupont 
 Streets. Rev. Andrew L. Stone, D. D., 
 pastor. 
 
 Second Congregational Church, east 
 side of Taylor Street, between Cearvand 
 O'Farrell. Rev. John Kimball, pastor. 
 
 United German Evangelican Lutheran 
 Congregation of St. Mark's Church, south 
 side of Geary Street, between Stockton 
 and Powell. Rev. F. Luders, and Rev. 
 Paul Lorcutzen, pastors. 
 
 St. PauVs German Evangelical Luther- 
 an Church, south side of Mission Street, 
 between Filth and Sixth. Rev. J. M. 
 Buehlcr, pastor. 
 
 Scandinavian Evangelical Lutheran 
 Church, Rev. F. Nanus, pastor. Services 
 every Sunday, at 1 o'clock, i\ m., in the 
 church on Howard Street, between Sec- 
 ond and Third. 
 
 First New Jerusalem Church, north 
 side of O'Farrell Street, between Mason 
 
& Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Francisco. 
 
 and Taylor. Rev. John Doughty, pastor. 
 This is a very neat building, in the Gothic 
 style. 
 
 First Unitarian Church, south side of 
 Geary Street, between Dupont and Stock- 
 ton. Rev. Horatio Stebbius, pastor. A 
 very beautiful building, remarkable for 
 the purity of its architectural design and 
 the elegance of its interior finish. 
 
 Chinese Mission House of the Methodist 
 Episcopal Church, north side of Wash- 
 ington Street, between Stockton and 
 Powell. Rev. Otis Gibson, superintend- 
 ent ; Rev. Hu Sing Me, native preacher 
 
 Chinese Mission House, northeast cor- 
 ner of Stockton and Sacramento Streets. 
 Rev. A. W. Loo_mis, and Rev. I. M. Con- 
 diet, pastors (see page 132). 
 
 PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. 
 
 The parks of San Francisco are in 
 the future. Provision has been made by 
 law for laying out and improving an ex- 
 tensive city park on the outskirts of 
 the city, and for the opening and improv- 
 ing of a magnificent avenue ; but work 
 on these improvements has only just 
 commenced. The commissioners ap- 
 pointed are authorized to expend $100,- 
 000 the first year, $75,000 the second 
 year, and $50,000 a year afterward. 
 
 Portsmouth Square, commonly called 
 the Plaza (west side Kearney Street, from 
 Washington to Clay Streets), is enclosed 
 with a handsome iron railing, and laid 
 out with gravel walks, trees, shrubs, 
 and grass-plats, with a fountain in the 
 centre of the grounds. 
 
 There are a number of other public 
 squares in different parts of the city, but 
 none of them have been much improved. 
 The citizens are waiting for the Grand 
 Tark. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
 
 City Hall, on Kearney Street, extending 
 from Washington to Merchant Street 
 (opposite the Plaza). 
 
 The New City Hall, to be built on the 
 tract of land known as Yerba Buena 
 Park, bounded by Market Street, MacAl- 
 Iister and Larkin Streets, will be a very 
 elegant building, surpassed by few in the 
 United States. 
 
 The Custom House, Battery Street, cor- 
 ner of Washington. Office hours from 
 
 9 o'clock a. M. to 4 o'clock p. m., daily, 
 except Sundays. 
 
 The Post-Office is in the Custom-House 
 building. Office hours from 8 o'clock 
 a. m. to 4 o'clock p. m., and from 7 to 
 8.30 o'clock, except on Sundays, when 
 the hours are from 9 to 10 o'clock a. m. 
 
 Hall of Records, Kearney Street, south- 
 east corner of Washington. 
 
 United States Branch Mint, north side 
 of Commercial Street, near Montgomery. 
 Office hours (Sundays excepted) from 9 
 o'clock a. m. to 2 o'clock p. M. Gold 
 bullion received from 9 o'clock a. m. to 
 12 o'clock M., and silver bullion from 
 12 o'clock m. to 1 o'clock p. m. Visitors 
 admitted from 9 o'clock a.m. to 12 
 o'clock m. O. H. La Grange, superinten- 
 dent. 
 
 At this establishment is made two- 
 thirds of all the gold and silver coin 
 manufactured in the United States. One 
 hundred men and three coining-presses 
 are kept constantly busy, $242,000,000 
 having been coined here between 1854, 
 the year of its establishment, and 18G7, 
 inclusive — an amount nearly equal to 
 one-half the entire coinage of the Phila- 
 delphia Mint since its origin in 1793. 
 
 The New Mint, now building, will oc- 
 cupy the 100-vara lot which forms the 
 northwest corner of Mission and Fifth 
 Streets. It will be a grand and substan- 
 tial structure, of the Doric-Ionic order. 
 The lot cost $100,000, and the building 
 it is estimated will cost $1,500,000. 
 
 The U. S. Treasury is located at 428 
 Montgomery Street. Office hours from 
 9 o'clock A. si. to 3 o'clock p. it. daily 
 (Sundays excepted). 
 
 The Merchants' Exchange Building, on 
 the south side of California Street, be- 
 tween Montgomery and Sansome Streets, 
 is one of the most elegant and spacious 
 in the city. The building cost about 
 $200,000, and the lot is valued at more 
 than that sum. The large hall in the 
 first story, occupied as the Merchants' 
 Exchange, is a splendid room with lofty 
 ceilings. It is fitted up for the uses of 
 the Exchange, and supplied with all the 
 leading papers and magazines, domestic 
 and foreign. The building, as a whole, 
 presents a striking appearance, but the 
 style of architecture is somewhat incon- 
 gruous. The first story is constructed 
 129 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Fkancisco. 
 
 after the Doric order — the other two sto- 
 ries each after different orders. In the 
 tower is a very fine clock. 
 
 The United Slates Marine Hospital, 
 corner Mission and Fifteenth Streets, is 
 an extensive building, on a commanding 
 eminence, erected some twelve years ago. 
 It receives over 1,000 patients in the 
 course of the year, the average number 
 of inmates being about 100. 
 
 United States Appraiser's Store, south- 
 west corner Battery and Jackson Streets. 
 
 County Hospital, corner Stockton and 
 Francisco Streets. 
 
 Industrial School, on the old San Jose 
 road, five miles from the City Hall. 
 
 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS, HOSPITALS, 
 ETC. 
 
 Among the most notable of the nu- 
 merous benevolent institutions of San 
 Francisco are the following : 
 
 The Protestant Orphan Asylum, Lagu- 
 na Street, near Haight. This institution 
 ■was incorporated in 1851. In 185-1 the 
 present building was erected, at a cost of 
 $30,000, to which additions have since 
 been made, involving a like expenditure. 
 The asylum affords accommodation for 
 250 children. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, 
 Market Street, near Third, has accommo- 
 dation for about 750 children. There is 
 an extensive school, consisting of several 
 large and costly buildings, in connection 
 with this institution. This noble estab- 
 lishment cost over $100,000, independent 
 of the valuable tract of land upon which 
 the buildings are situated. 
 
 The Ladies'' Protection and Relief Soci- 
 ety, Franklin Street, near Post. 
 
 The Ladies' Seaman's Friend Society, 
 corner of Vallejo and Battery Streets. 
 
 Sail Francisco Benevolent Association, 
 corner of California and Webb Streets. 
 
 Home for the Inebriate, corner of Stock- 
 ton and Chestnut Streets. This well- 
 managed institution was organized in 
 1859. 
 
 Tke Magdalen Asylum, on the San 
 Bruno road, one mile south of the city, 
 was opened about five years ago, under 
 the auspices of the Sisters of Mercy. It 
 receives nearly 100 inmates. 
 
 The Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, and 
 Blind has been spoken of in the de- 
 130 
 
 scription of Oakland. The temporary 
 building is at the Mission Dolores. 
 
 The Alameda Park Asylum for the In- 
 sane is situated on the Encinal, Alameda. 
 
 Some of these and other societies re- 
 ceive liberal aid from the State, largo 
 sums being given annually, by special ap- 
 propriation, to the Orphan Asylums ; but 
 for their chief support, which involves 
 large and constant expense, they arc de- 
 pendent upon the contributions of the 
 benevolent. The Inebriate Asylum re- 
 ceives a monthly appropriation of $250 
 from the city. 
 
 Besides the United States Marine Hos- 
 pital and the County Hospital, already 
 noticed, there are, among others : 
 
 St. Mary's Hospital, comer Bryant and 
 First Streets, a Roman Catholic institu- 
 tion, having accommodations for a large 
 number of patients. 
 
 The Almshouse, City and County, San 
 Miguel road. 
 
 The Slate Woman's Hospital, 21 Haw- 
 thorne Street, founded in 186S by several 
 benevolent citizens. 
 
 8CIIOOLS AND COLLEGES. 
 
 San Francisco has reason to be proud 
 of the completeness of its educational 
 system and institutions. Its school- 
 houses are generally spacious and hand- 
 some buildings. Besides the public 
 schools there are about seventy private 
 establishments, some of which are of a 
 high order. 
 
 Among the Roman Catholic institu- 
 tions of learning is 
 
 The St. Ignatius Collrye, on Market 
 Street. The present edifice, though con- 
 stituting but one-third of the building 
 hereafter to be erected, has already cost 
 $120,000, independent of the site it oc- 
 cupies. The college is under the direc- 
 tion of the Jesuits, several priests of the 
 order acting as teachers. (See page 127.) 
 
 St. Mary's College, situated four miles 
 south of the city, is also a Roman Catho- 
 lic institution. It occupies a costly brick 
 building, and is surrounded by spacious 
 grounds. 
 
 City College is one of the highest, not 
 under sectarian control. University 
 School, Union College, and the California 
 Business University, arc well-conducted 
 institutions. 
 
S. Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Francisco. 
 
 CEMETERIES. 
 
 laurel Hill Cemetery, situated a little 
 west of Lone Mountain, two and a half 
 miles west of Montgomery Street, and op- 
 posite California Street. Office, 001 Cali- 
 fornia Street. 
 
 Masonic Cemetery, near Lone Moun- 
 tain. Office, 325 Montgomery Street. 
 
 Odd -Fellows' Cemetery, near Lone 
 Mountain. Office, 325 Montgomery Street. 
 
 Mount Calvary Cemetery (Roman Cath- 
 olic), east of Laurel Hill Cemetery. 
 
 Hebrew Cemetery, Cibboth Olom (Flills 
 of Eternity), Dolores Street, between 
 Nineteenth and Twentieth, and Church 
 Streets. 
 
 Hebrew Cemetery, Nevai Shalotne (Home 
 of Peace), Dolores Street, between Eigh- 
 teenth and Nineteenth, and Church 
 Streets. 
 
 Zone Mountain Cemetery. — In the vi- 
 cinity of the grounds selected for ceme- 
 teries is a singular mountain of a conical 
 shape, which rises up, singly and alone, 
 to a considerable height above the sur- 
 rounding country, which is tolerably 
 level. This has very appropriately been 
 called Lone Mountain. The mountain 
 proper is enclosed in the Roman Catholic 
 Cemetery, and by that association called 
 Mount Calvary, which has planted on 
 its summit a large wooden cross. The 
 mountain and cross are very conspicuous, 
 and may be seen from almost any part of 
 the city. The former, being so marked 
 a feature of the landscape, and the prin- 
 cipal cemeteries lying immediately around 
 it, the custom seemed to come naturally 
 to speak of the cemeteries generally as 
 Lone Mountain, although this is not the 
 corporate name of any of them. 
 
 This pretty ground is two and a half 
 miles west of the principal hotels, and is 
 reached by street-ears. It was dedicated 
 May 30, 1851. The first interment was 
 made June 2, 1854. It then cousisted 
 of one hundred and sixty acres, which 
 was enlarged to its present size in 1862. 
 Upward of fifteen thousand interments 
 have already been made. Large numbers 
 of the Chinese have been placed in vaults 
 in this cemetery, previous to their re- 
 moval to China. Among the monuments, 
 that erected to Senator Broderick, from 
 n design by William Craine, is one of the 
 
 most noteworthy. Ralston's, modelled 
 after the Parthenon at Rome, and Lu- 
 ning's, are also fine structures. 
 
 The great feature of Lone Mountain 
 is its unrivalled outlook, embracing fine 
 bird's-eye views of the ocean, bay, and 
 city, Mount Diablo, and the Coast Range. 
 (See chapter on California.) 
 
 TOE CHINESE IN SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 There are probably about 20,000 
 Chinese in Sau Francisco. On every 
 block you see them; at the turn of 
 every corner you see the ever-present, 
 blue sack, nankeen pants, turban hat, 
 and pigtail of John. They all dress 
 about the same — seldom a ragged or 
 patched coat is to be seen. In almost 
 every family and restaurant are to be 
 found the Chinese cooks ; in every street 
 you will pass some " Chang " or " Wong " 
 sign hung out with the words under- 
 neath, "washing and ironing done here." 
 
 The Theatre. — No person visiting San 
 Francisco should fail of a visit to the 
 Chinese Theatre. It is located in the 
 centre of " China-town " — the northern 
 part of San Francisco. Here all the 
 Chinese in the city have congregated ; 
 they hold undisputed possession of sever- 
 al blocks, and the houses are crammed 
 from cellar and sub-cellar to garret. The 
 theatre is in a two-story building, the en- 
 trance to the same being through a long, 
 dirty, yellow-paper covered alley. Every 
 person is smoking, and, if the visitor 
 happens to have a seat in the gallery, he 
 will have ample opportunity forjudging of 
 the difference between the smell of very 
 bad cigars and opium. 
 
 The stage is about ten feet high, and 
 covered on all sides with dirty, faded red- 
 and- yellow paper, and black Chinese 
 letters. Faded gilt stripes are here and 
 there observable ; pieces of tin, like sar- 
 dine-boxes, piled on top of each other, 
 are nailed to the walls ; wings, tails, and 
 heads of birds are hung up with old tin 
 pans, broken chairs, legless tables, dirty 
 coats, hats, and pants, rusty swords, 
 broomsticks burned black for spears, 
 peacock-feathers, red and yellow stripes 
 of muslin, old boots and shoes, wooden 
 animals painted every color but the natu- 
 ral, junks with sails set, armies march- 
 ing, and bulls fighting, in fact the stage 
 131 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Francisco. 
 
 is indescribable — imagine all the things 
 in Barnum's Museum thrown out of the 
 windows in an indiscriminate heap, and 
 an idea can be formed of the stage in the 
 Chinese Theatre. 
 
 The orchestra (?) sit on the stage and 
 smoke all the time ; some have things 
 like horseshoes fastened to a stick a 
 yard long ; these they strike together ; 
 others have gongs in their hands, and 
 one is so large it is fastened to a table, 
 and the fellow who strikes it blows like a 
 blacksmith swinging the sledge-hammer 
 on an anvil. Another has a brass thing 
 like a washing-tub, hung as high as his 
 head ; this he pounds with two things 
 like stilts. There is no music, it is 
 simply each man trying to make more 
 noise than his fellow ; after the " orches- 
 tra " have worn themselves out with 
 making the noise, the performance com- 
 mences. Several fellows, clad in green, 
 red, and yellow costume, with long feath- 
 ers sticking out from the backs of their 
 necks, wings on their shoulders, and 
 large masks in imitation of bulls, horses, 
 and other beasts, begin strutting about 
 and shouting one to another. It is im- 
 possible for any one except he be a Chi- 
 naman to understand what is going on. 
 Here also can be seen the Chinese la- 
 dies (?) sitting in a separate compart- 
 ment in the gallery. It is quite a com- 
 mon thing to see them here with their 
 opium-pipes and a little basket contain- 
 ing the tea-pot — with tea ready made — 
 and several small cups ; while the per- 
 formance is going on, they are alternate- 
 ly drinking and smoking opium. 
 
 Gambling-Houses, etc. — A visit to the 
 gambling-houses and opium-cellars of the 
 Chinese will well repay the tourist. To 
 insure a ready admittance and respectful 
 treatment, obtain the services of a po- 
 liceman. As a general thing, every Chi- 
 naman gambles ; they are the greatest 
 gamblers in the world. In a cellar 
 twelve feet under-ground will be found 
 eighty or a hundred sitting around ta- 
 bles and betting. Their mode of gam- 
 bling is simple : some one throws a hand- 
 ful of copper coins on the table and after 
 putting up stakes they bet whether the 
 number of coins is odd or even ; then 
 they count them and declare the result. 
 Often in a single night they will gamble 
 132 
 
 away one or two months' wages. The 
 places are greasy and dirty in the ex- 
 treme, and rilled with smoke. 
 
 The opium smoking-houses and cellars 
 are fitted up with bunks a good deal like 
 closets. Say a closet has eight shelves ; 
 well, on each shelf there will be found as 
 many Chinamen, lying down on the 
 boards, in pairs, with a wooden box for 
 a pillow. They smoke in pairs : while 
 one is smoking and preparing the opium, 
 the other is dozing in a half-drunken 
 sleep. When number one has had his 
 smoke, he prepares the opium and pipe 
 for number two ; having handed the pipe 
 to number two, number one keels over 
 with eyes shut and mouth open in an 
 insensible state and takes a nap ; then 
 number two smokes, hands the pipe to 
 the first, and he too falls over, and so 
 they go on, one smoking after the other 
 until both are thoroughly " laid out " on 
 the shelf. They take the opium-smoke 
 into their lungs, retain it there as long 
 as possible, and finally eject it through 
 the nostrils. 
 
 The Temples. — The Chinese have three 
 temples at present in San Francisco. 
 The two principal gods are " How Wong " 
 and " Quong Fi." At all hours of the 
 day the visitor will find the temples open, 
 anil any number of joss-sticks smoking 
 in front of the favorite gods. 
 
 Protestant Schools. — The religious peo- 
 ple of San Francisco have established 
 ten or a dozen Sabbath-schools, where 
 the Chinese can learn first the English 
 language, and secondly, the creeds, etc., 
 of the Protestant Church The princi- 
 pal school at present is that of Rev. Dr. 
 Loomis. Here they sing first in English, 
 then in Chinese, the hymns " There is a 
 Happy Land," "Rock ot Ages," "1 want 
 to be an Angel," " Just as 1 am, without 
 one Plea," and others ; they repeat the 
 Ten Commandments and the Lord's 
 Piaycr. Dr. Loomis prays, using the 
 Chinese language, and the Rev. Mr. C< in- 
 dict then preaches to them in their moth- 
 er tongue. Their behavior is very good, 
 and their singing excellent. Religious 
 newspapers, published in their language 
 at Canton, by the missionaries, are dis- 
 tributed one to each scholar. (See page 
 128.) 
 
S. Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Francisco. 
 
 HIDES, DRIYES, ETC. 
 
 The most prominent places in and 
 around the city are the following : 
 
 Alcatraces — A fortified island in the 
 Bay of San Francisco, one and two-thirds 
 mile from Telegraph Hill. 
 
 Angel Island— In the Bay of San Fran- 
 cisco, within one mile of Marin County 
 and five miles of San Francisco. 
 
 Bay View Park and Race-course — Near 
 Hunter's Point, five miles south of the 
 City Hall. 
 
 Black Point — On the Bay of San Fran- 
 cisco, at the commencement of Franklin 
 Street, one and one-half mile northwest 
 of the City Hall. 
 
 Clarke's Point — Foot of Broadway 
 Street. 
 
 Cliff House — Near the ocean, at the 
 termination of Poiut Lobos Road, six and 
 one-half miles west of the City Hall. {See 
 page 134.) 
 
 Fair mount — Old San Jos6 Road, four 
 miles southwest from the City Hail. 
 
 Farallone Islands — In the Pacific 
 Ocean, near the entrance to the Golden 
 Gate, twenty-nine miles from San Fran- 
 cisco. (See page 13-1.) 
 
 Fort Point — Near Golden Gate, four 
 miles west of the City Hall. 
 
 Golden Gate — The entrance to the Bay 
 of San Francisco, six miles west of the 
 City Hall. {See page 134.) 
 
 Hunter's Point — Four and one-half 
 miles southeast from the City Hall. {See 
 page 134:.) 
 
 Kensington — Howard Street, near 
 Twenty-first. 
 
 Lagoon — Gough Street, between Lom- 
 bard and Francisco. 
 
 Laguna de la Merced — Near the ocean, 
 seven miles southwest of the City Hall. 
 
 Lake Honda — Near the Ocean House 
 Road, four miles southwest of the City 
 Hall. 
 
 Lone Mountain — Near the termination 
 of Bush Street, three miles southwest of 
 the City Hall. {See page 131.) 
 
 Long Bridge — Extends from the ter- 
 mination of Fourth Street to Potrero 
 Nuevo. 
 
 Mission Dolores Church — Corner of 
 Sixteenth and Dolores Streets, three 
 miles southwest of the City Hall. (See 
 page 134.) 
 
 Mountain Lake — Near the Presidio, 
 three miles west of the City Hall. 
 
 North Beach — Extends from the foot 
 of Powell Street north to Black Point. 
 
 Ocean House ami Pace-course — Ocean 
 House Road, McAllister Street, seven 
 miles southwest of the City Hall. (See 
 page 134.) 
 
 Ocean-Side House — Ocean beach, seven 
 miles southwest of the City Hall. 
 
 Point Lobos — Opposite the Golden 
 Gate, six miles southwest of the City Hall. 
 (See page 135.) 
 
 Point San Quentin — Foot of Sierra 
 Street, Potrero Nuevo, two and one-half 
 miles southeast of the City Hall. 
 
 Potrero Nuevo — Near the Bay of San 
 Francisco, two and one-half miles south 
 of the City Hall. 
 
 Presidio — Fronting on the Bay of San 
 Francisco, three miles west of the City 
 Hall. (See page 135.) 
 
 San Jose Point — At the termination of 
 Van Ness Avenue and the Bay of San 
 Francisco. 
 
 Seal Rock — Six miles west of the City 
 Hall. (See page 134.) 
 
 Spring Valley — The vicinity of Filbert 
 and Gough Streets. 
 
 Steamboat Point — Foot of Second 
 Street. 
 
 Telegraph Hill — From Broadway Street, 
 between Dupont and the bay north to 
 Bay Street. 
 
 Visitacion Valley — Near the Bay of 
 San Francisco and the San Mateo line, 
 six miles south of the City Hall. 
 
 Yerba Bucna — An island in the Bay of 
 San Francisco, one and one-half mile 
 from Market Street wharf. (See page 
 121.) 
 
 THE CLIFF nOTXSE, SEAL ROCK, FARAL- 
 LONE ISLANDS, HUNTER'S POINT, MIS- 
 SION DOLORES, ETC. 
 
 The favorite drive of the pleasure - 
 seekers of San Francisco is to the Cliff 
 House, which is built on the edge of the 
 cliffs, at the southern side of the entrance 
 to the Golden Gate. By land it is seven 
 miles from the city. A fine, broad, mac- 
 adamized road of five miles' length leads 
 from the outskirts of the city to a group 
 of cliffs outside the Golden Gate, on the 
 shore of the Pacific. On either side of 
 the toll-gate at the entrance of the road, 
 133 
 
San Francisco.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [San Francisco 
 
 lie the Lone Mountain Cemetery and Lone 
 Mountain itself. The road is bounded 
 by low, grass-covered hills, and hills of 
 golden-colored sand, which contrast fine- 
 ly with each other under the bril- 
 liant sky, which gives constant pleas- 
 ure to the eye accustomed to the many 
 dull days of an Eastern winter or spring. 
 The whole length of the road is watered 
 in dusty weather, and is as smooth and 
 well-kept as a race-course. Here you 
 meet vehicles and riders of every de- 
 scription, particularly on Saturday after- 
 noon, the half-holiday of the business 
 men. Fast trotting and open carriages 
 abound. Glimpses of the Golden Gate 
 and its bold headlands meet the eye here 
 and there to the right, and as we near the 
 end of our ride we have a grand view of 
 the Pacific beyond the hills on our left, 
 and then, with a sharp turn between 
 rugged sand-hills, we see a glorious ex- 
 pause of blue ocean, and are at the ClifT 
 House. This is a low, rambling building, 
 set upon some cliffs rising sharply from 
 the ocean and facing west. The road 
 passes on by the hotel, cut through solid 
 rock, with a stone parapet on the sea- 
 ward side, to a broad, beautiful beach, 
 which is of several miles' length, and over 
 which at low tide one can easily drive to 
 the Ocean House at its extreme end, and 
 return to San Francisco by a road behind 
 the Mission hills. But no one passes by 
 the Cliff House without stopping ; its 
 pretty parlor and broad piazzas facing the 
 sea detain the visitor very pleasantly. 
 The restaurant attached to the house is 
 famed for its excellence, and it is a cus- 
 tom of the dwellers in San Francisco to 
 drive down in the lovely morning, before 
 the summer northers begin to blow, and 
 breakfast there. 
 
 Seal Rock is close by the hotel, and the 
 greatest charm of the place is the lounge 
 upon the wide, shaded piazza, facing the 
 bold rocks which thrust their heads from 
 the water, and to watch the seals, which, 
 covering these rocks, bask in the sun, 
 sleep or wriggle their clumsy bodies up 
 and down as if every movement were 
 difficult, barking so noisily that they are 
 heard above the superb roar of the break- 
 ers. Northward lies the Golden Gate, 
 through whose entrance sail in and out 
 ships of all descriptions. Southward, the 
 134 
 
 beach, upon which the waves beat cease- 
 lessly, and beyond, a rocky shore, whose 
 peaks melt into the blue distance. The 
 vast ocean in front sparkles in the sun, 
 and in the distant horizon on a clear day 
 the peaks of the Farallonc Islands are 
 visible. 
 
 The Farallone Inlands are a rugged 
 mass of rock of almost 200 acres in ex- 
 tent, belonging to the Farallone Island 
 Egg Company. Here the murre, a largo 
 bird, resorts to deposit her eggs and 
 hatch her young. At a distance, the 
 birds hovering over the islands look like 
 a dark cloud. The whole island is cov- 
 ered with nests. At the breeding-season 
 the company robs the nests, and supplies 
 the whole city and the surrounding coun- 
 try with the eggs. Several hundred 
 thousand eggs are gathered every season. 
 So great is the trade that the company 
 has a vessel which, in the season, makes 
 regular trips between San Francisco and 
 the Farallone Islands. 
 
 Hunter's Point. — In an opposite direc- 
 tion from the city lies the dry-dock at 
 Hunter's Point. This is cut out of solid 
 rock, and is said to be one of the finest 
 docks in the world. The ride to it leads 
 across an arm of the bay, and over round- 
 ed hills covered with short grass, and 
 destitute of any other vegetation. Varied 
 views of the harbor, and the coves and 
 rocks running into the hill-sides, make 
 the drive pleasant. 
 
 Ifission Dolores. — A visit to the 3fis- 
 sion, three miles southwest of the city, 
 will interest the stranger. The Market 
 Street railroad-cars start for that point 
 each half hour in the day. Lines of om- 
 nibuses run to the same place by a more 
 circuitous route, passing through " The 
 Y/illows," a pleasant suburban retreat, 
 on their way. Many fine gardens are in 
 the vicinity. The Race-course is a mile 
 beyond. The Protestant Orphan Asylum 
 is a fine building half a mile north. The 
 Mission itself is an object of much inter- 
 est. It is an adobe building of the old 
 Spanish style, built in 1770. Adjoining 
 is the cemetery, with its well-worn paths 
 and fantastic monuments. 
 
 All through California one finds, scat- 
 tered in the choicest situations for shelter 
 and fertility, the old Spanish mission 
 Btations, founded by the Jesuit missiona- 
 
S. Francisco.] OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO, ROUTE XVIII. [S. Francisco. 
 
 ries nearly a century since. Many of them 
 still exist under their old names, though 
 the services are no longer held for the 
 Indian converts, all traces of them seem- 
 ing to have passed away. The church 
 of the Mission Dolores has been enclosed 
 in wood on three sides to save it from 
 utter ruin. The old front remains, with 
 its simple but quaint facade, and its 
 silver bells giving forth a very uncertain 
 sound, for they are sadly cracked; and 
 services are held in front of the ancient 
 altar and beneath the queerly-painted 
 walls. The adjoining adobe buildings, 
 once filled with the converts, and later 
 with students, are now used for shabby 
 shops and a still shabbier station-room, 
 whose low doors are flanked by a pair 
 of weather-worn walrus-tusks. Opposite 
 these is a modern three-story brick build- 
 ing, surrounded by a high fence enclosing 
 well-kept grounds, where the nuns of the 
 order of Notre-Dame keep a large school. 
 The Presidio, Fort Point, etc. — A line 
 of horse-cars runs near to the Presidio, 
 which is situated some three miles toward 
 the Golden Gate ; a mile farther is Fort 
 Point, so called from the fortification 
 which protects the entrance to the harbor. 
 Following the shore we pass Point Lobos, 
 Seal-Rock House, and the Cliff House. 
 From this point, returning to the city, 8 
 miles distant, the road winds through 
 and over the San Bruno Hills, from whose 
 peaks — 1,200 feet above the level of the 
 sea — a fine view of the bay on one side, 
 and of the ocean on the othar, is to be had. 
 t Those who wish to get entirely away 
 from the city's noise and dust, and 
 enjoy the country in its purity and 
 beauty, can cross the bay by any one of 
 the numerous ferries, and find quiet, 
 lovely villages in any direction, — beauti- 
 ful valleys, elegant farm-houses, neat, 
 pretty cottages, covered with running 
 roses, and surrounded by bright flowers, 
 well-tilled orchards, and extensive vine- 
 yards. All these, occurring in constant 
 succession, must charm and satisfy to 
 the fullest extent seekers of the joys 
 of country life. 
 
 DISTANCES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO TIIE 
 INTERIOR OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Alameda, 12 miles by steamer and rail- 
 road. 
 
 Almadcn Mines, 67 miles by railroad 
 and stage. 
 
 Alviso, 46 miles by water, or 60 miles 
 railroad and stage. 
 
 Belmont, 25 miles by railroad. 
 
 Benicia, 30 miles by steamer. 
 
 Big Trees, 72 miles from Stockton via 
 Murphy's by stage. 
 
 Calistoga, 71 miles by steamer and rail- 
 road. 
 
 Crystal Springs, 23 miles by railroad 
 and stage. 
 
 Geyser Springs, 99 miles by steamer, 
 railroad, and stage. 
 
 Gilroy, 80 miles by railroad. 
 
 Half Moon Bay, 34 miles by railroad 
 and stage. 
 
 Healdsburg, 80 miles by steamer and 
 stage. 
 
 Mare Island, 28 miles by steamer. 
 
 Martinez, 35 miles by steamer. 
 
 Mission San Jose, 38 miles by steamer, 
 railroad, and stage. 
 
 Mount Diablo Mines, 44 miles by 
 steamer and stage. 
 
 Mountain View, 38 miles by railroad. 
 
 Napa City, 44 miles by steamer and 
 railroad. 
 
 Oakland, 8 miles by steamer and rail- 
 road. 
 
 1'achcco, 31 miles by steamer and stage. 
 
 Petaluma, 48 miles by steamer. 
 
 Redwood City, 28 miles by railroad. 
 
 Sacramento, 111 miles by steamer and 
 railroad, and 117 by steamer. 
 
 San Jose, 50 miles by railroad. 
 
 San Leandro, 18 miles by steamer and 
 railroad. 
 
 San Qucntin, 12 miles by steamer. 
 
 San Rafael, 14 miles by steamer and 
 railroad. 
 
 Santa Clara, 46 miles by railroad. 
 
 Santa Cruz, 76 miles by railroad and 
 stage. 
 
 Stockton, 90 miles by railroad and 117 
 by water. 
 
 Suisun, 50 miles by steamer. 
 
 Vallejo, 28 miles by steamer. 
 
 Warm Springs, Alameda Count}', 41 
 miles by steamer, railroad, and stage. 
 
 White Sulphur Springs, Napa County, 
 52 miles by steamer. 
 
 White Sulphur Springs, Vallejo, 31 
 miles by railroad and stage. 
 
 Yosemite Falls, from Stockton via Ma- 
 riposa 150 miles by stage. 
 
 135 
 
TOURS OF THE GREAT LAKES AND RIVERS. 
 
 TOUR I, 
 
 FROM NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS: 
 
 Via Niagara Fulls, Lake Brie, Detroit River, 
 Luke St. ( 'lair, Hirer St. Clair, Luke Huron, 
 River Saint Mary, Lake Superior, Lake Sti- 
 perior and Jlinsi^sippi Railway, and 3Iis- 
 sinsippi River. 
 
 This tour is one in which variety and 
 grandeur of scenery, and luxurious case 
 in travelling, are harmoniously combined. 
 Three inland seas are crossed, the great- 
 est cataract on the continent is visited, 
 rich mines of iron and copper can be en- 
 tered if the traveller desires, the pictu- 
 resque dalles of the St. Louis River are 
 seen to great advantage, and the most 
 beautiful portion of the Mississippi River 
 is traversed. The stifling heat and dust 
 of our great cities are left behind, and the 
 tourist draws in new life with every breath 
 of the cool, bracing northern air, w r hilc 
 he can feast upon delicious fish fresh from 
 the clear, cold waters of their native lakes 
 and streams. Our proposed trip is cer- 
 tainly the most delightful one that can be 
 taken in this country during the summer 
 months, as, aside from all considerations 
 of scenery, the mode of travelling is so 
 very comfortable ; the only portion of 
 the journey in which land travel is ne- 
 cessary, after reaching Buffalo, being 
 the short portage from Duluth to Saint 
 Paul. 
 
 From New York to Niagara Falls, the 
 ordinary tourist would take cither the 
 Erie or Central Railway and would com- 
 mence his excursion at Lake Erie ; but, 
 if time and money could both be spared, 
 a far plcasantcr plan would be to go up 
 136 
 
 the Hudson by a steamer of the Day Line, 
 thence by rail to Lake George, cross 
 Lakes George and Champlain by steamer, 
 proceed by rail to Montreal, and thence 
 by steamer to Niagara, thus being enabled 
 to view the charming scenery of the St. 
 Lawrence and to cross Lake Ontario, en- 
 tering the Niagara River at its mouth. 
 The various methods of reaching this 
 point are all elaborately given in Apple- 
 tons' Hand-book of American Travel — 
 Northern and Eastern Tour, in which 
 will also be found a long and carefully- 
 written description of the Falls and the 
 vicinity. 
 
 The regular lines of steamers in the 
 lake-trade are swift, strong, safe, com- 
 modious, and elegantly furnished ; the 
 staterooms are fitted up with wide bed- 
 steads and all the comforts of a cosy little 
 bedroom, the cabins are large and even 
 sumptuous in their appointments, and 
 the "table" is excellent. As a rule, the 
 officers of the steamers are kind and at- 
 tentive, and on board most of the boats 
 is to be found a band ready to furnish 
 music for dancing. These steamers leave 
 Buffalo, Erie, Cleveland, and Detroit. 
 They may he taken at any one of these 
 places, or at Tort Huron or Port Sarnia, 
 at the foot of Lake Huron. The usual 
 through-fare from Buffalo to St. Louis, 
 including meals, is $68 ; but excursion 
 tickets arc issued during the season at 
 reduced rates. 
 
 Biii !»«■ Kric, which is first crossed, 
 is the shallowest and most dangerous of 
 the entire chain of the Great Lakes. It 
 can be avoided at the cost of a ten or 
 twelve hours' railway journey, but then 
 
Dunkirk.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Wtandotte. 
 
 the tourist loses the pleasure of the De- 
 troit River trip. The lake is 250 miles 
 long, 60 miles wide, and averaging about 
 100 feet in depth. It is 564 feet above 
 the level of the sea. Together with Lakes 
 Ontario, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, 
 it is recognized rather as a sea than a 
 lake. After leaving Buffalo, the scenery- 
 is uninteresting, as we do not approach 
 near enough to the land to see any thing 
 except when entering and leaving port, 
 and many of the steamers make no stops 
 until reaching Detroit. For the conve- 
 nience of the traveller who may be upon 
 a boat making all the landings, a brief 
 description of the principal ones along 
 the southern shore of the lake may not 
 be out of place. More extended notices 
 of some of them will be found in Route 
 II. in this volume, where they arc treated 
 as railway-stations. 
 
 Unnkirlk, N. Y. (42 miles from 
 Buffalo), has a good harbor, but is not 
 particularly attractive. The entrance is 
 rather difficult in rough weather. 
 
 Eric, S»a. (90 miles from Buffalo), 
 the terminus of the Philadelphia & Erie 
 Railway, has a very large and beautiful 
 harbor, formed by what was once a long, 
 narrow peninsula, but is now an island. 
 The bar at the mouth has been dredged 
 away so as to afford a good channel. 
 Erie is a United States naval station. It 
 was here that Commodore Perry took 
 his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie 
 in September, 1813. His flag-ship, the 
 Lawrence, was dismantled in this port, 
 and some of the wreck is still in the 
 harbor. 
 
 Cleveland, O. (185 miles from 
 Buffalo). Steamers usually make a stay 
 of several hours at this port. The city 
 stands upon a high bluff, and a good view 
 of it is had from the water. (For descrip- 
 tion, see page 17.) 
 
 IPnt-in-Ray Islands are a 
 very beautiful group, belonging to the 
 State of Ohio. (For description, see page 
 5.) Passing among these and other isl- 
 ands, the tourist approaches the mouth 
 of the 
 
 S>etroit ISiver, the distance be- 
 tween the shores gradually diminishing 
 until they are only three miles apart. On 
 the right bank is the Dominion of Canada, 
 and on the left the State of Michigan, the 
 
 stream being dotted with islands, none 
 of which are worthy of particular notice 
 until " Grosse Isle" is reached. This, 
 which is three miles long and one wide, 
 is a favorite summer resort for Detroiters, 
 who here find, within twenty miles of 
 their homes, a delightful retreat from the 
 heat and dust of the city. The island 
 divides the river into two channels, which 
 are known as American and Canadian ; 
 the latter, being the deepest, is used en- 
 tirely by through-boats, none passing on 
 the American side except to touch at 
 Trenton or Gibraltar, the former of which 
 is a flourishing place noted for its ship 
 building. Opposite Crosse Isle is Mai- 
 den, an old-fashioned Canadian village, 
 the site of Fort Maiden, a garrisoned post, 
 important only from its position. The 
 river is broad, varying from three miles 
 at the mouth to a mile in width at the 
 city of Detroit ; the Canadian shore vising 
 abruptly from the water to a height of 
 from 20 to 25 feet, the American shore 
 being low, and in some places marshy. 
 Two sluggish streams, the Riviere aux 
 Canards, near Maiden, and the River 
 Rouge, near Detroit, are the only affluents, 
 and are of no importance whatever except 
 as affording excellent duck-shooting, as 
 the name of the one first mentioned would 
 indicate. There are several low islands 
 in the river, which are used as fishing- 
 stations. The white-fish fisheries afford 
 a livelihood to large numbers of men. 
 
 Wyandotte, Mien. (15 miles 
 below Detroit), is the site of extensive 
 rolling-mills, which may truly be said to 
 have created the town. What was for- 
 merly nothing but a farm, is now an in- 
 corporated city, The factories use Lake 
 Superior iron, and turn out rails and 
 sheet-iron of the best quality. 
 
 Three miles below the steamboat land- 
 ing at Detroit, the river makes a sudden 
 turn, and the city comes into full view. 
 On the right hand is the village of &md- 
 wich, in Canada, and directly opposite is 
 Fort Wayne, a bastioned redoubt mount- 
 ed with heavy ordnance, and garrisoned 
 by four or five companies of United States 
 troops. For at least six miles commencing 
 at the fort, the river-front is lined with 
 mills, dry-docks, ship-yards, fouuderies, 
 grain-elevators, railway-depots, and ware- 
 houses. On the Canadian shore but little 
 137 
 
Detroit.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Saint Clair. 
 
 evidence is seen of enterprise or thrift. 
 (For description, see page*:!.) 
 
 Detroit, Mich., has extraor- 
 dinary advantages as a manufacturing 
 place, and has the best harbor on the 
 whole line of the Great Lakes, while its 
 central position between the mining-re- 
 gion of Lake Superior and the great mar- 
 kets of the East adds materially to- its 
 wealth and prosperity. (See page 3.) 
 
 The steamers generally stop at this 
 port for several hours, and the tourist 
 should improve this opportunity to drive 
 through the principal streets aud see the 
 beauties of the town. Fort Street, Jef- 
 ferson, Woodward, Washington, and La- 
 fayette Avenues, are among the hand- 
 somest thoroughfares. 
 
 Leaving Detroit, we pass " Belle 7/e," a 
 small island at the head of the river, and 
 soon see the broad waters of Lake St. 
 Clair spread out before us. 
 
 Lake St. Clair, a link in the 
 great chain of lakes, is 25 miles long, and 
 about the same distance from shore to 
 shore. It is naturally shallow, and at the 
 upper end, where the river St. Clair emp- 
 ties, large deposits of sand have been 
 made, known as the " Flats." These, for 
 a long while, greatly impeded navigation, 
 but the difficulty has been lately over- 
 come by the construction of a canal, which 
 will be described presently. Around the 
 shores of the lake are large fields of 
 rice, where immense flocks of wild-ducks 
 swarm, geese are found in the shoot- 
 ing-season, and the waters teem with fish. 
 
 lie la Pcche, commonly known 
 as " Peach Island," near the lower end of 
 the lake, belongs to Canada. It was at 
 one time the home of the celebrated In- 
 dian chief Pontine. Parkman, in his 
 " History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," 
 Bays : " Pontiac, the Satan of this forest- 
 paradise, was accustomed to spend the 
 early part of the summer upon a small 
 island at the opening of Lake St. Clair." 
 Another author says : " The king and 
 lord of all this couutry lived in no royal 
 state. His cabin was a small, oven- 
 shaped structure of bark and rushes. 
 Here he dwelt with his squaws and chil- 
 dren ; and here, doubtless, he might often 
 have been seen carelessly reclining his 
 naked form on a rush-mat or a bear-skin, 
 like an ordinary Indian warrior." 
 138 
 
 The St. Clair Flats Ship- 
 Canal, constructed under the superin- 
 tendence of General Crane, of the United 
 States Engineer Corps, extends through 
 the flats, and is a blessing to every sailor, 
 ship-owner and traveller who has occasion 
 to pass from the lower to the upper lakes. 
 It is a straight channel cut through the 
 shifting sands, having at the very lowest 
 stages of the water a depth of i3^ feet, 
 and ordinarily from 14 to 15 feet. It is 
 300 feet wide between the faces of the 
 dikes ; for the excavated earth has been 
 deposited on either side, forming banks 
 or dikes of a width of 40 feet between 
 the lake and the canal faces. The pro- 
 tections, which are of wood, are more 
 than three-fourths below the surface of 
 the water, and the portion above water 
 has been subjected to a process of " car- 
 bolic acidizing," which is considered a 
 sure preventive of rot. Outside of them, 
 sand has been emptied by the dredges, 
 which has taken a natural slope of 1 foot 
 in 20. Willows and other trees are to be 
 planted on the embankments, which are 
 also to be handsomely sodded. This will 
 not only help in preserving the banks, 
 but will add greatly to their beauty. The 
 dikes only rise 5 feet above the surface 
 of the water, but this is considered to be 
 sufficient. They are so constructed that 
 16 or 20 feet of water can be obtained in 
 the channel, whenever desired, by dredg- 
 ing, and 23 feet can be had by diminish- 
 ing the width at the bottom to 225 feet. 
 This canal, which is, in fact, a river con- 
 ducted through a lake, is justly regarded 
 as a triumph of engineering skill. 
 
 St. Clair Miver. — This is really 
 a strait through which the waters of Lake 
 Huron make their way toward the At- 
 lantic Ocean. It is 48 miles long, and 
 has a descent of 15 feet in that distance, 
 which gives a current of from 3i to 4 
 miles an hour, with a depth varying from 
 40 to 60 feet. The scenery along St. 
 Clair is beautiful, the banks on either 
 side being well cultivated or covered with 
 forest-trees. The towns along the river, 
 for the most part, are prosperous and 
 important places, connecting with Detroit 
 by daily lines of steamers. 
 
 Saint Clair, Mich. (66 miles 
 from Detroit), situated at the mouth of 
 Pine River, \a the capital of Saint Clair 
 
Fort Huron.] NEW YORE TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. [Mackinaw Strait. 
 
 County. It is a place of some importance, 
 on account of its lumber-trade and manu- 
 factures. On the border of the town are 
 the ruins of Fort St. Clair, built as a pro- 
 tection against the Indians. 
 
 Sutherland, Ont., is a small village on 
 the opposite side of the river, and above 
 are Moore and Fromefidd, small Canadian 
 villages. 
 
 IPort llsirom, MEIcla., is a port 
 of entry at the mouth of Black River, 
 which runs through a rich pine-region, 
 and down which are floated the logs 
 which supply the numerous saw-mills at 
 this point. It is an incorporated city, is 
 well built, and has a large trade. During 
 the season of navigation it is connected 
 by daily lines of steamers with Detroit, 
 Saginaw, and the principal lake and river 
 ports. Port Huron is to be the terminus 
 of a railway now building to connect with 
 the Detroit & Milwaukee Railway at Owas- 
 so, making an air-line across the State. The 
 Detroit Branch of tlie Grand Trunk Rail- 
 way of Canada passes through the city. 
 
 J§»arnla, Out., a port of entry op- 
 posite Port Huron, and connected with 
 it by ferry, is a place of active business, 
 being the terminus of the Main Line of 
 the Grand Tru?ik Railway of Canada, 
 and of a Branch of the Great Western 
 Railway. 
 
 F"ort Gratiot (two miles above 
 Port Huron) is a United States military 
 post, being garrisoned by two or three 
 companies of troops. It was built in 
 1814, and has no strength as a fortifi- 
 cation, consisting merely of a stockade 
 around the barracks built for the troops ; 
 but, commanding the entrance to Lake 
 Huron, it is of no small importance as a 
 strategic point. The village adjoining 
 the military reservation has gained con- 
 siderable commercial importance since 
 the building of the railway, as all freight 
 and passengers are fcrried across the 
 river at this point, and all steamers in 
 the lake-trade stop here. This village 
 and Port Huron seem destined to grow 
 together as one large city when the rail- 
 ways now building and projected open 
 to settlement the large tract of country 
 which must find here its natural outlet. 
 
 Point E3<lwar«l, Out., directly 
 opposite Fort Gratiot, is to Sarnia what 
 Fort Gratiot is to Port Huron. 
 
 Below Port Huron and Sarnia the river 
 gradually becomes broader, and the cur- 
 rent more rapid, until it reaches a mile in 
 width, and runs at the rate of six miles an 
 hour. It then grows narrower, between 
 Fort Gratiot and Point Edward being 
 only about a thousand feet wide, the in- 
 creased velocity of the current being so 
 noticeable that the descent of the water 
 can be seen from the wharves on either 
 side. The steamer stops for the last of 
 the passengers, some of whom come by 
 rail, and starts anew up Lake Huron. 
 
 ILalke Huron lies between the 
 43d and 4Gth degrees of north latitude, 
 is 250 miles in length from the head of 
 the St. Clair River to the Straits of Mack- 
 inaw, and 100 miles in width. It is 574 
 feet above the level of the ocean, and 
 varies in depth from 100 to 750 feet. 
 Georgian Bay, on the northeast side of 
 the lake, is very large, and lies entirely 
 within the Dominion of Canada — Saginaw 
 Bay, on the southwest, being within the 
 limits of the State of Michigan. Tawas 
 Bay is a good harbor on the northwest 
 side of Saginaw Bay. Thunder Bay is 
 farther north, and the Thunder-Bay Isl- 
 ands are at its mouth. The stormiest 
 part of the lake is between Saginaw and 
 Georgian Bays, where the wind often 
 sweeps with terrific violence. But few 
 islands are seen, and the traveller who 
 has never been at sea can form some 
 idea of what an ocean is, for during a 
 portion of our voyage no land can be seen 
 even from the masthead ; the boundless 
 expanse of water, dotted here and there 
 with a distant sail, stretching on every 
 side. 
 
 Except on special excursion-trips, the 
 Lake Superior steamers do not touch at 
 Mackinaw, but it may be well to notice 
 these beautiful straits and their islands, 
 as there are many of these excursion- 
 trips in the course of the summer. There 
 is a daily line of steamers from Colling- 
 wood, on Georgian Bay, one of the ter- 
 mini of the Grand Trunk Railway to 
 Chicago, touching at Mackinaw. 
 
 The Strait of" Mackinaw 
 connects the waters of Lakes Michigan 
 and Huron. It is about 40 miles in 
 length, and from 5 to 20 miles wide, com- 
 prising, in its limits, the island of Macki- 
 naw and several others ; the largest of 
 139 
 
Mackinaw Island.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mackinaw Island. 
 
 all being Bois Blanc Island. The en- 
 trance to the strait, always beautiful, is 
 particularly so in calm weather, soon 
 after sunrise or just before sunset. Then 
 the effect of the light and shade is charm- 
 ing ; the islands, duplicated in the clear 
 water, seem floating on the surface; the 
 water in one place reflecting the rays of 
 the sun with dazzling brilliancy, in an- 
 other unripplcd by a single zephyr, hav- 
 ing the appearance of an undulating mir- 
 ror ; while Mackinaw, at first a mere 
 speck in the distance, seems to rise from 
 the horizon until it expands into a huge 
 circular emerald. Presently we see the 
 fort, the cliff, the village at its foot, the 
 bold face of " Robinson's Folly," and 
 finally the wigwams of the Indians upon 
 the beach come into view. 
 
 Mackinaw Island, Midi., 
 is 300 miles northwest of Detroit, and 
 350 miles north of Chicago. It is about 
 three miles long and two miles wide. It 
 is an old military post of the United 
 States, as well as a delightful and popu- 
 lar place of summer resort. The waters 
 surrounding the island teem with fish of 
 delicious flavor, being as clear as those 
 of Lake Superior, and the most minute 
 objects can be discerned at a surprising 
 depth. The fisherman sees the fish toy- 
 ing with his bait, and the active little 
 Indian boys on the piers are always ready 
 to dive for coins the visitor may throw 
 into the water for them. The inhabit- 
 ants of the pretty village at the foot of the 
 cliff arc mainly dependent on their fish- 
 ing-nets and seines for support, and upon 
 the money spent every summer by tour- 
 ists, there being several good hotels and 
 several stores where Indian curiosities, 
 petrifactions, agates, photographs, and 
 other mementos of the place, are offered 
 for sale. Boats for pleasure-excursions 
 arc always to be had, and the usual ac- 
 cessories of a summer resort, such as 
 bowling-alleys, billiard-roouis, etc., etc., 
 arc provided at the best hotels. 
 
 A few minutes' walk from the landing 
 brings us to the foot of the cliff, from 
 which a steep road leads up to Fort 
 Mackinaw, 200 feet above the •level 
 of the lake. The fort, which is garri- 
 soned by a company of United States 
 troops, overlooks the village and beauti- 
 ful harbor. In the rear of and about 
 140 
 
 J 00 feet above this fort arc the ruins of 
 old Fort Holmes, and in their immediate 
 neighborhood, 320 feet above the level 
 of the lake, the highest point on the 
 island, stands a signal-station. The view 
 from this elevation is very fine. The 
 Islands of St. Martin are exactly ninth, 
 and beyond them, emptying into the bay, 
 are Pine and Carp Rivers. To the north- 
 west, on the main-land, are two curious 
 rocks, called by the Indians the " Sitting 
 Babbits.'" Turning toward the east, Lake 
 Huron is spread out before us, and, chan- 
 ging our field of observation toward the 
 south, we have Bois Blanc Island and 
 Bound Island. Directly south are the 
 Straits of Mackinaw, at this point but four 
 miles wide ; and on the south shore are the 
 ruins of " Old Fort Mackinaic," destroyed 
 by the Indians in 1YG3. Turning again 
 we see, about four miles distant, Point 
 Ic/nace, the most southerly point of the 
 eastern portion of the " Upper Peninsu- 
 la " of Michigan, and with this point we 
 complete our circuit. "When the moon 
 is out in its full beauty, an indescribable 
 charm is imparted to these views. 
 
 The island is covered with a thick 
 growth of hard wood. The rides, drives, 
 walks, and picnic grounds, are delightful 
 and are kept in excellent order. Nuts and 
 wild berries abound. Among the most 
 attractive and interesting places upon 
 the island we may mention the follow- 
 ing : 
 
 Arched Bock, situated upon the eastern 
 side of the island, is a feature of great 
 interest. The cliffs attain a height of 
 nearly one hundred feet, and at the base 
 are strewed numerous fragments which 
 have fallen from above. The Arched 
 Rock has been excavated in a projecting 
 angle of the limestone cliff, and the top 
 of the span is about ninety feet above the 
 lake-level, surmounted by about ten feet 
 of rock. At the base of a projecting 
 angle, which rises like a buttress, is a 
 small opening, through which an explorer 
 may pass to the main arch, where, after 
 clambering over the steep slope of d&bris 
 and the projecting edges of the strata, he 
 reaches the brow of the cliff. 
 
 The beds forming the summit of the 
 arch are cut off from direct connection 
 with the main rock by a narrow gorge 
 of no great depth. The portion sup- 
 
Mackinaw Island.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. [Point du Tour, 
 
 porting the arch on the north side, and 
 the curve of the arch itself, are compara- 
 tively fragile, and cannot long resist the 
 action of rains and frosts, which, in this 
 latitude, and on a rock thus constituted, 
 produce great ravages every season. 
 The arch, which on one side now con- 
 nects this abutment with the main cliff, 
 must soon be destroyed, as well as the 
 abutment itself, and the whole be pre- 
 cipitated into the lake. The highest 
 point of the arch is 140 feet above the 
 water. 
 
 The Lover's Leap is a rock about one 
 mile west of the village, having a vertical 
 height of 145 feet. A solitary pine-tree 
 was formerly a conspicuous object upon 
 this cliff. The Indian legend, to which 
 the place owes its name, is that a young 
 squaw, standing on this point waiting for 
 the return of her lover from battle, saw 
 the warriors carrying his dead body to 
 the island, and in her grief threw herself 
 into the lake. 
 
 Robinson's Folly, a vertical cliff east 
 of the village, is" 128 feet high. It is 
 named after a Scotchman, who, delighted 
 with the situation, built himself a small 
 house on its verge. One night the house 
 was blown over the edge, and Mr. Robin- 
 son, being within, paid for his folly with 
 his life. 
 
 The Sugar-Loaf is a solitary limestone- 
 rock rising from the plateau upon which 
 it stands. It is shaped like a huge loaf 
 of white sugar, and contains a good-sized 
 cave. Its summit is 284 feet above the 
 lake. 
 
 The Devil's Kitchen is a curious cave. 
 
 The British Landing is on the island, 
 opposite the village. It is a favorite 
 place for picnics, and received its name 
 from being the point where the British 
 troops landed when they captured the 
 island in 1812. There is a never-failing 
 spring of water here, which even in mid- 
 summer is too cold to drink with com- 
 fort, though it is said that in the severest 
 winter weather it is never frozen. 
 
 There are other places of interest on 
 the island, and many pleasant excursions 
 can be made to fishing and hunting 
 grounds in the vicinity. The tourist can 
 find out all about these by making in- 
 quiry at the hotels. 
 
 Leaving Mackinaw to return to the 
 
 direct route to Lake Superior, the steamer 
 passes the mouth of St. Martin's Bag, 
 famed for its fishing, Great and Little St. 
 Martin's Islands, and after a trip of 30 
 miles reaches Point du Tour, where the 
 direct route is resumed, 305 miles from 
 Detroit. 
 
 Point €ln Tour, the most east- 
 erly point of the main-land of the Upper 
 Peninsula of Michigan, is at the mouth 
 of Saint Mary's River. The light-house 
 is at the extremity of this place, but 
 the village is upon the river about two 
 miles above. Drummond Island, opposite 
 the point, now belongs to the United 
 States, the boundary-line running to the 
 east of it. It is a large island, and was 
 once fortified by the British. The ruins 
 of the fort are still to be seen. 
 
 The Saint Mary's River, a remarkably 
 beautiful stream, 62 miles long, is the only 
 outlet to Lake Superior. It contains 
 about 50 islands belonging to the United 
 States, and a large number belonging to 
 Canada. The steamer enters the "west 
 channel," which is about one mile broad 
 and 100 feet deep, although just off the 
 light-house it is only 50 feet deep. A 
 description of the scenery of this river 
 can be given only in the most general 
 terms. The stream is a succession of 
 expansions and contractions in width, 
 and is beautifully dotted with evergreen- 
 covered islands. 
 
 Patagannissing Bay, some 8 or 10 miles 
 wide, extends from Drummond to Saint 
 Joseph's Island, and as far north as the 
 main-land, where it receives the waters 
 of the north channel. It is covered with 
 islands, most of which are within the lim- 
 its of the United States. The river really 
 passes through this bay to reach Lake 
 Huron, or it may be more accurate to say 
 that the river empties into this bay, and 
 that it in turn communicates with Lake 
 Huron by the straits, one of which is the 
 " west channel." 
 
 Round or Pipe Island is 4 miles above 
 the mouth of the river. Its general ap- 
 pearance is indicated by its name. 
 
 Saint Joseph's Island, 10 miles from 
 De Tour, belongs to Canada. It is 20 
 miles long and 15 miles broad, being sep- 
 arated from the main-land by the north 
 channel. It is fertile, and in part culti- 
 vated, the other portions being covered 
 141 
 
Saut Ste. Marie.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Mary's Ship Canal. 
 
 by a heavy growth of forest-trees. A 
 fort formerly stood upon the island, and 
 the ruins are yet to be seen in sailing up 
 the river. Two miles above the lower 
 point of Round Island is Lime Island, the 
 channel between the two forming the 
 boundary-line between the United States 
 aud Canada. On the main-land, on the 
 American side, is a small settlement called 
 Carletonville. 
 
 Mud Lake, a part of the river, at Sail- 
 ors' Encampment Island, 20 miles from 
 Lake Huron, is 4 miles wide. It is about 
 10 miles long, and receives its name from 
 being so shallow that the muddy bottom 
 is easily stirred up. 
 
 Sugar Ts 7 and, 30 miles from Lake 
 Huron, is above St. Joseph's Island, and 
 separated from it by the main channel 
 which marks the boundary-line. It is 
 situated at the spot where the north 
 channel diverges. Two small rocky isl- 
 ands belonging to Canada here command 
 both channels. Church's Landing, upon 
 this island, is a stopping-point for passing 
 steamers. Large quantities of raspberry 
 jam, which brings a high price and finds 
 a ready sale in the lake cities, are shipped 
 from here. 
 
 The Nebish Rapids have a current of 
 five miles an hour, but are no impediment 
 to steamboat navigation. 
 
 Lake George, immediately above the 
 rapids, like Mud Lake, is an arm of the 
 river. It is five miles wide, and about 
 eight in length. The channel was at one 
 time so shallow as to be almost unnavi- 
 gable for large steamers, but it has been 
 improved by dredging. 
 
 Garden River Settlement is a village of 
 the Chippewa Indians on the Canadian 
 side of the river, midway between Lake 
 George and the Saut, being about 10 miles 
 from each. Fishing, hunting, and, in the 
 season, gathering wild berries, are the 
 principal occupations of the Indians in 
 the place. Little Lake George and Pointe 
 (tux Piers are passed, and at the distance 
 of 55 miles the Saul is reached, 7 miles 
 below Waiska Bag. 
 
 Saut Ste. Marie, Mich. (3G0 
 miles from Detroit), was settled by French 
 Jesuits in 1G68. It is the capital of 
 Chippewa County, and is situated at the 
 foot of the rapids which have, until re- 
 cently, been an impassable barrier tonavi- 
 142 
 
 gation. The fisheries, the fur-trade, and 
 the entertainment of summer tourists, are 
 the principal means of support of the 
 inhabitants. The town is a small place, 
 and, during a great part of the year, is 
 cut off from the rest of the world on ac- 
 count of the coldness of the climate. If 
 a railway is ever opened to this point, 
 there will soon be a large city here, the 
 location being a very favorable one for 
 commerce. There is a village of the same 
 name on the Canadian side of the river 
 directly opposite. Port Bradg is a gar- 
 risoned post of the United States, com- 
 manding the channel at the Saut. 
 
 The Ste. Marie liapids are 
 very picturesque, the river falling 20 feet 
 within a mile. They can be descended 
 in a canoe, and any one, desiring to try 
 this exciting sport, can always find In- 
 dians ready to make the trip with him. 
 The red gentlemen are very expert with 
 the paddle, and, if the passenger will only 
 sit quietly where he is told, he will be in 
 no danger. 
 
 In the summer of 1854, according to 
 the Report of Foster and Whitney, made 
 to Congress in 1856, "an extraordinary 
 retrocession of the waters took place at 
 the Saut Ste. Marie. The river here is 
 nearly a mile in width, and the depth of 
 water over the sandstone rapids is about 
 three feet. The phenomena occurred at 
 noon ; the day was calm but cloudy ; the 
 water retired suddenly, leaving the bed 
 of the river bare, except for the distance 
 of about twenty rods where the channel 
 is deepest, and remained so for the space 
 of an hour. Persons went out and caught, 
 fish in the pools formed in the rocky cavi- 
 ties. The return of the waters wa3 sud- 
 den, and presented a sublime spectacle. 
 They came down like an immense surge, 
 roaring and foaming, and those who had 
 incautiously wandered into the river-bed 
 had barely time to escape being over- 
 whelmed." 
 
 The Saint Mary's Ship Ca- 
 nal, which has been constructed around 
 the Rapids, belongs to the State of Michi- 
 gan, and is one of the most complete and 
 important in the country, being the only 
 outlet for the mineral products of the 
 Lake Superior region, and the commerce 
 of that great body of water. 
 
 This canal was constructed for the 
 
Waiska Bat.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. [Lake Superior. 
 
 State by a company which expended 
 about $1,000,000 in the work, and re- 
 ceived as compensation 750,000 acres 
 of land, which was selected during the 
 building of the canal, by agents appoint- 
 ed by the Governor of Michigan ; 39,- 
 000 acres were selected in the iron region 
 of Lake Superior, 147,000 acres in the 
 copper region, and the balance, 504,000 
 acres, in the Lower Peninsula. 
 
 The following figures will give some 
 idea of the magnitude of this work, 
 which was commenced in the spring of 
 1853, the first steamer, the Illinois, pass- 
 ing through it on the 18 th of June, 1855 : 
 
 Length of canal, 5,548 feet = 1 mile 
 304 feet. 
 
 Width at top, 115 feet; at water-line, 
 100 feet; at bottom, 64 feet. 
 
 The depth of the canal is 12 feet. 
 
 A slope wall on the sides of the canal 
 is 4,000 feet in length. 
 
 There are two locks, each 350 feet in 
 length. 
 
 Width of locks, 70 feet at top, 61|- 
 feet at bottom. 
 
 The walls are 25 feet high — 10 feet 
 thick at bottom. 
 
 Lift of upper lock, 8 feet ; lower do., 
 10 feet ; total lockage, 18 feet. 
 
 Lower wharf, 180 feet long ; 20 feet 
 wide. Upper wharf, 830 feet long ; from 
 1G to 30 feet wide. 
 
 There are 3 pairs of folding-gates, each 
 40 feet wide. 
 
 Upper gate, 17 feet high; lower gate, 
 24 feet 6 inches high. 
 
 There are also upper and lower caisson- 
 gates, used for shutting off the water 
 from the canaL 
 
 The amount of lumber, timber, and 
 iron, used in the building of the piers 
 and gates, was enormous. There were 
 103,437 lbs. of wrought-iron used in the 
 gates, and 38,000 lbs. cast-iron. 
 
 lkVi»lsl£& ISiay, six miles above the 
 head of the rapids, is reached after pass- 
 ing a beautiful stretch of the river. It 
 is called by some a widening of the river; 
 by others a part of the lake ; but, be that 
 as it may, it is in reality a picturesque 
 bay about five miles long, terminated by 
 Iroquois Point on the American, and 
 Gros Cap on the Canadian side, between 
 which the steamer passes. 
 
 'JToMqianmeiiOEi ESifiy, 25 miles 
 
 long, and about the same distance in 
 width, is rather a contraction of the 
 lake near its outlet than a bay. On the 
 American shore the elevation of the land 
 is not remarkablv great, but on the Cana- 
 dian side it is from 800 to 1,000 feet. 
 The bay contains Parisien and other isl- 
 ands belonging to Canada. The termi- 
 nation, about 40 miies above the Saut, is 
 marked on the south by Wliitejkh Point 
 and light-house, and on the north by Ma- 
 mains Point. 
 
 Lake Superior, the largest 
 body of fresh water in the known world, 
 extends from 84° 30' to 92° 30' west 
 longitude, and from 46° 30' to 49° north 
 latitude, being 460 miles long and 170 
 miles broad in its widest part, having an 
 average width of 85 miles, a circuit of 
 1,750 miles, and an estimated area of 
 32,000 square miles. It is 600 feet 
 above the level of the ocean, from which 
 it is 1,500 miles distant by the way of 
 the other lakes and the St. Lawrence 
 River. It is 800 feet deep in its deepest 
 portion — the bottom there being 200 feet 
 below the level of the ocean. It receives 
 its waters from about 200 rivers and 
 streams draining an area of 100,000 
 square miles. It contains a number of 
 islands in the eastern and western por- 
 tions, but very few in the central. The 
 most important of these are lie Royal, 
 The Apostles, and Grand Island, belong- 
 ing to the United States, and Michipico- 
 ton, He St. Ignace, and Pie Islands, be- 
 longing to Canada. 
 
 The early French Jesuit fathers, who 
 first explored and described this great 
 lake, and published an account of it in 
 Paris, in 1636, speak of its shores as 
 resembling a bended bow, the northern 
 shore being the arc, the southern shore 
 the cord, and Keweenaw Point, pro- 
 jecting from the southern shore to near 
 the middle of the lake, the arrow. 
 
 The coast of Lake Superior is mostly 
 formed of rocks of various kinds, and 
 of different geological groups. With the 
 exception of sandy bars at the mouth of 
 some of the rivers and small streams, the 
 whole coast o-f the lake is rock-bound ; 
 and in some places, but more particularly 
 on the north shore, mountain masses 
 of considerable elevation rear themselves 
 from the water's edge, while mural preci- 
 143 
 
Pictured Rocks.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Pictured Rocks. 
 
 pices and beetling crags oppose them- 
 selves to the surges of this mighty lake, 
 and threaten the unfortunate mariner, 
 who may be caught in a storm upon a 
 lee-shore, with almost inevitable destruc- 
 tion. 
 
 The waters are of surprising clearness, 
 are very cold, and filled with the most 
 delicious fish. 
 
 The wealth of the mineral deposits by 
 which the lake is surrounded is incalcu- 
 lable. 
 
 Once having passed Wfdtc-Fish Point, 
 with its " sand-dunes " or hills, and its 
 tall light-house, the steamer usually takes 
 a course for Point an Sable, 50 miles be- 
 yond, keeping in sight of the Michigan 
 shore, which here presents a succession 
 of steep sand-hills, varying from 300 to 
 COO feet in height. 
 
 The Pictured Rocks, 20 
 miles farther, and 785 miles from Buf- 
 falo, are a wonderful exhibition of the 
 denuding effect of water, combined with 
 the stains imparted by certain minerals. 
 They extend for a distance of about live 
 miles, rising in most places vertically 
 from the water's edge to a height of from 
 60 to 200 feet, there being no beach 
 whatever. When the weather will per- 
 mit, steamers run near enough to give 
 passengers a good view of these great 
 curiosities ; but, if the tourist can spare 
 the time, his best way is to stop at Grand 
 Island, and to visit them in a small boat, 
 for, to be able to appreciate their extraor- 
 dinary character, it is necessary to coast 
 along the cliffs and pass beneath the 
 Grand Portal. As we cannot afford the 
 space required to give such a detailed 
 description of these rocks as they de- 
 serve, we must content ourselves with 
 briefly alluding to them in order from 
 east to west; the visitor from Grand 
 [gland approaches them in the opposite 
 direction. 
 
 The Chapel is a vaulted apartment in 
 the rock, 30 or 40 feet above the level 
 of the lake. An arched roof of sand- 
 stone rests on four columns of rock so as 
 ti> leave an apartment about 40 feet in 
 diameter, and about the same in height. 
 It has been provided by Nature with a 
 pulpit and altar, and if fashioned by the 
 hands of man could scarcely have been 
 more appropriately arranged. On the 
 114 
 
 west side, and close by, Chapel River 
 falls into the lake over a rocky ledge 10 
 or 15 feet in height. 
 
 The Grand Portal, which appears next, 
 is the most imposing feature in the series. 
 The general disposition of the arched 
 openings which traverse this great quad- 
 rilateral mass may, perhaps, be made in- 
 telligible without the aid of a ground- 
 plan. The main body of the structure 
 consists of a vast mass of a rectilinear 
 shape, projecting out into the lake about 
 600 feet, and presenting a front of 300 
 or 400 feet, and rising to a height of 
 about 200 feet. An entrance has been 
 excavated from one side to the other, 
 opening out into large vaulted passages 
 which communicate with the great dome, 
 some 300 feet from the front of the cliff. 
 The Grand Portal, which opens out on 
 the lake, is of magnificent dimensions, 
 being about 100 feet in height, and 168 
 feet broad at the water-leveL 
 
 The distance from the verge of the 
 cliff over the arch to the water is 133 
 feet, leaving 33 feet for the thickness of 
 the rock above the arch itself. The ex- 
 treme height of the cliff is about 60 feet 
 more, making in all 183 feet. 
 
 Sail Pock is about a mile to the west 
 of the Grand Portal, and consists of a 
 group of detached rocks. It owes its 
 name to its striking resemblance to the 
 jib and mainsail of a sloop when spread 
 — so much so that when viewed from a 
 distance, with a full glare of light upon 
 it, while the cliff in the rear is left in the 
 shade, the illusion is perfect. The height 
 of the block is about 40 feet. Passing 
 to the westward, we skirt the cliffs worn 
 into thousands of strange forms, colored 
 deep brown, yellow and gray, bright blue, 
 and green. They are arranged in verti- 
 cal and parallel bands extending to the 
 water's edge, and are brightest when the 
 streams are full of water. 
 
 Miner's Castle, 5 miles from the Chapd, 
 and just west of the mouth of Mm r's 
 River, is the western end of the Pictured 
 Rocks. It resembles an old turreted cas- 
 tle with an arched portal. The height 
 of the advanced mass in which the Goth- 
 ic gateway may be recognized is about 
 70 feet, that of the main wall forming 
 the background being about Ho f»ct. 
 For the next ten miles we pass along a 
 
Grand Island.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Negaunee. 
 
 series of rocky promontories extending 
 as far as Grand Island. 
 
 Orand Island, 125 miles from 
 the Saul, is 10 miles long and 5 wide. 
 It is a wild and romantic place, the sand- 
 stone cliffs being worn into the most cu- 
 rious and fantastic shapes. The fishing 
 around the island is excellent. 
 
 Mnnisimg - , formerly called Grand 
 Maud City, is on Grand Island Bay, which 
 is 6 miles long, and from 2 to 4 miles 
 wide, completely land-locked, deep, and 
 easy of access. There are several dwell- 
 ings, an hotel, and a pier at this place, 
 which, from its proximity to the Pictured 
 Rocks, and the fine fishing, boating, etc., 
 in the vicinity, promises to become a 
 popular place of summer resort. Near 
 here arc the Schoolcraft Iron Works. 
 Miner's Point and Monument Hock, nat- 
 ural curiosities, may be visited in small 
 boats. 
 
 Marquette, Mich. (835 miles 
 from Buffalo, and 170 from the Saut), 
 settled in 18-10, has a large harbor, well 
 protected from northeast winds. The 
 city is well built, and carefully laid out. 
 There are four immense piers running out 
 into the bay, which are constructed so 
 that the ore from the mines can be trans- 
 ferred from the cars to " pockets," and 
 thence to the boats without handling, the 
 transfer being effected in the same man- 
 ner as is employed in loading vessels 
 with grain. An ingenious contrivance is 
 in use for preventing the fall of the ore 
 injuring the boats. There are iron 
 manufactures of various kinds at this 
 point. The water at Marquette is bad, 
 but this drawback will cease to exist 
 when the proposed. works for forcing up 
 the lake-water into the city "are con- 
 structed. The place naturally has great 
 attractions for the invalid and tourist, 
 in its healthy, invigorating atmosphere, 
 beautiful walks and drives, fine scenery, 
 boating, and fishing. Persons spending 
 several weeks at Marquette can pass the 
 time very agreeably in making excursions 
 in the neighborhood to Grand Island and 
 the Pictured Rocks, to Carp River, Dead 
 River, and Chocolat River. There is 
 trout-fishing at all these places. Another 
 excursion is by the Marquette <& Ontona- 
 gon Railway to Champion on Lake 3Iichi- 
 gami where there are good boating, hunt- 
 7 
 
 ing, and fishing, but poor accommoda- 
 tions for travellers. The distance is 32 
 miles, and the time of the trip is about 
 three hours. A visit may also be made 
 to the iron regions. We shall have some- 
 thing to say about this presently. 
 
 If the tourist is an enthusiastic sports- 
 man, and would try his skill at the best 
 fishing and hunting grounds in the 
 Northern Peninsula., and at the same 
 time take a four or five days' trip of ad- 
 venture through an unbroken wilderness, 
 let him leave all his baggage at Mar- 
 quette ; before starting, consult some 
 veteran " backwoodsman," and, accom- 
 panied by two guides, take a canoe at 
 Champion, cross Lake Michigami, follow 
 Michi garni River to the Menominee River, 
 and so reach Green Bay. The route is 
 through a rough, wild country, full of 
 deer and other game ; the river is broad, 
 and has several rapids and falls, the de- 
 scent in all being 1,000 feet. The river 
 passes through a rich iron district, as yet 
 undeveloped. Another similar trip, tak- 
 ing about four days, is down the Esca- 
 nawba River. In September, 1870, when 
 the writer was at Marquette, " Cameron " 
 and a half-breed, named " Jack Repeat," 
 were considered the best guides. 
 
 The Marquette Iron ISe- 
 glon lies at the back of Marquette, 
 from which the mines are distant from 
 12 to 30 miles ; they being on an elevated 
 ridge known as the Iron Mountain, 
 which is from 700 to 800 feet above the 
 level of the lake. The tourist can visit 
 this region either by the Marquette & 
 Ontonagon Railway, which has its outlet 
 at Marquette, or by the Peninsula Divis- 
 ion of the Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way. Both roads connect at Negaunee, 
 and run in a continuous line across the 
 Northern Peninsula from Marquette to 
 JEscaiiawba on Green Bay. 
 
 The grade from Marquette to Negau- 
 nee is so steep that in winter this part of 
 the road cannot be used even by loco- 
 motives. 
 
 Negaunee (13 miles from Mar- 
 quette), a dreary-looking place, 900 feet 
 above the level of Lake Michigan, is the 
 centre of the iron region, as now de- 
 veloped. It contains the Pioneer Furnace, 
 the largest in the Upper Peninsula, and 
 daily reduces thirty tons of ore to puro 
 145 
 
Xegaunee.] 
 
 WESTEKN TOUR. 
 
 [HOUGHTOX^ 
 
 pig-iron, using at present only the Jack- 
 son ore. From this point radiate railroads 
 to the Jackson, the Lake Superior, the 
 Washington, the Iron Cliff, the Tilden, 
 the New York, the Cleveland, the Fos- 
 ter, and other mines, and it is hence 
 that the mineral products of the country 
 are transported, either to Marquette or 
 Escanawba, for shipment. The region is 
 so rich in iron that the embankments of 
 the roads are of ore that would yield 
 forty-five per cent, of metal. Many of the 
 cuts are through hills of pure ore. Any 
 thing yielding less than sixty per cent, of 
 metal is termed lean, and is avoided if 
 possible, but, if necessary to be removed, 
 it is piled up out of the way, as not worth 
 the cost of transportation. If the richest 
 ore, however, is ever exhausted, it is pos- 
 sible that this lean will some day be con- 
 sidered of value. 
 
 The Iron Mines, as they are called, 
 might more properly be termed iron 
 quarries, as the ore, reaching to the very 
 surface of the ground, is almost universal- 
 ly dug or quarried out of the side of the 
 mountain precisely as a stone is obtained 
 for building. In some of the older mines, 
 however, tunnels and shafts are run, ap- 
 parently more for the purpose of facili- 
 tating the loading of the cars than to get 
 at the ore. The amount of capital in- 
 vested in these mines is immense, and 
 the returns for the investment almost in- 
 credible. 
 
 The mines are all alike, and a visit to 
 one will suffice for all. The Jackson is 
 one of the richest in the State. It ha3 
 five openings of quarries connected with 
 each other by tunnels. Two of these 
 latter are mere passages, but the third is 
 a loader, running some 50 to 60 feet be- 
 low the bottom of the mines, and con- 
 nected with them by four shafts, fitted 
 up with chutes, down which the ore is 
 thrown. The cars passing through the 
 tunnel are filled from these so rapidly 
 that from this one loader 150 car-loads 
 are taken daily. By this arrangement, 
 and the style of the ore docks, all han- 
 dling of it is dispensed with from the time 
 the miner loads it in the mine, until it is 
 removed from the vessel at its destina- 
 tion. The deposits of iron in this mine, 
 as in all the others opened, are lenticular., 
 or lens-shaped, and do not run in strati- 
 146 
 
 fied veins, the intervening spaces between 
 the lenses being filled with minerals of 
 various kinds, and with ore of an inferior 
 grade. 
 
 In Ohio and Pennsylvania there are TO 
 furnaces run entirely with Lake Superior 
 ore, in Lower Michigan there are four, 
 and in Upper Michigan there are nine, 
 besides four which are in course of con- 
 struction. The ore is taken to these fur- 
 naces, reduced to pig-iron, and then sold 
 to the fouuderies and rolling-mills. There 
 are 11 different locations, or mines, as 
 they are called, each one having from 
 two to nine openings. The supply is only 
 limited by the number of men employed 
 in excavating, and the means of transpor- 
 tation. 
 
 Resuming our journey, we make no 
 stops until reaching Portage Lake, pass- 
 ing on our way Granite Island (12 miles 
 from Marquette) ; StananVs Rock, a very 
 dangerous island of granite rock, 50 or 
 60 feet long, 10 feet wide, and four feet 
 above the water ; the Huron Islands, a 
 picturesque group; Huron Bay and Point 
 Abbeye, and cross Keweenaw Bay to the 
 Entry, leaving UAnce at the head of the 
 Bay well to the south. 
 
 Portage Emttry (80 miles from 
 Marquette) was originally a narrow, 
 crooked channel, leading from Keweenaw 
 Bay into Portage Lake and very difficult 
 of navigation; but in 1861 the Portage 
 Lake and River Improvement Company 
 was chartered, and a straight cut, 1,400 
 feet long, 100 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, 
 was made, the channel of the river being 
 straightened and deepened so that the 
 largest steamers could enter without dif- 
 ficulty, and land at the towns on Portage 
 Lake. 
 
 ISongflitom, I*Ii«*Hi. (14 miles 
 from the Entry), the capital of Houghton 
 County, was first settled in 1854, and was 
 incorporated as a village in 1861. It is 
 built upon a steep side-hill, and from the 
 water has an attractive appearance. It 
 is a flourishing place, being the centre of 
 the rich copper deposits of the Upper 
 Peninsula. In the immediate vicinity are 
 several of the largest and must productive 
 mines, but none of them are now in full 
 operation, owing to the low value of 
 copper. Those which are being worked 
 I can be visited very easily. They aro 
 
Hancock.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. [Portage Lake. 
 
 very different from the iron-mines, being 
 entered by deep shafts, and in all respects 
 conforming to the conventional idea of a 
 mine. 
 
 Honghton is one of the most pleasant 
 places on the lake at which to pass the 
 summer. The Douglas House, kept by 
 Sheldon & Allen, is the largest and best 
 hotel on Lake Superior. The drinking- 
 water in all parts of the town is excellent, 
 the sailing and rowing are perfectly safe, 
 and within three miles are five or six 
 well-stocked trout-streams. Salmon Trout 
 River, 9 miles distant, is generally con- 
 sidered to be the best trout-stream in 
 the Upper Peninsula. The roads in the 
 neighborhood of Houghton are good, and 
 some of the drives are delightful. 
 
 ISaracock, Midi., is a small 
 place opposite Houghton, and may al- 
 most be regarded as a portion of it. 
 
 Portage Lake might justly be 
 called Portage Strait, as the canal, which 
 will be described presently, has restored 
 to it its original character. In digging 
 this channel indubitable evidences have 
 been found that Portage Lake was once 
 an arm of Lake Superior, cutting off Ke- 
 weenaw Point, which was then a large 
 island. It is about 20 miles long, from 
 half a mile to two miles in width,' with 
 an average depth of 50 feet. On either 
 side the banks are covered with dense 
 forests, a farm-house with wide clear- 
 ings and a wood-dock occasionally vary- 
 ing the scene, for the demand for lumber 
 is so great in this region that every 
 owner of land becomes a wood-merchant, 
 and none is burned to get it out of the way, 
 as is common in most new settlements. 
 
 Portage ILake Sliip-Camal 
 is open for steamers, but is not quite 
 completed. It is 2^ miles long, 100 feet 
 wide, and 13 feet deep. The sides are 
 sheathed, the entire length, with piles 
 and heavy planks, which will prevent all 
 washing of the bank, or filling in of the 
 channel. In 1860, Congress appropriated 
 200,000 acres of land for the construc- 
 tion of this canal, and in 1864 a company 
 to prosecute the work was chartered by 
 the State of Michigan, but active labor 
 was not commenced until 1867, the com- 
 pany undertaking the work for a land- 
 grant of 400,000 acres of mineral and 
 pine lands. 
 
 Commencing at the Portage-Lake end 
 of the canal, where the lake itself is nar- 
 rowed down to 200 yards in width, the 
 excavation was made through an alluvial 
 deposit, thickly grown up with grasses 
 and aquatic plants, but soon serious diffi- 
 culties were experienced in crossing a 
 tamarac swamp, 2,000 feet long, the roots 
 of the trees extending 10 feet into the 
 ground. The ordinary dredges would 
 not answer at all, and it was necessary 
 to construct one of extraordinary size 
 and strength, with a serrated edge to the 
 bucket. Immediately after the swamp, 
 a sand-bank, extending to Lake Superior, 
 was encountered. It was, in some places, 
 over 30 feet above the level of the lake, 
 and the work of cutting through it was 
 enormous ; steam-shovels were used to 
 dig it down to the water-level, and 
 dredges were then applied at each end, 
 working toward each other; a railroad, 
 track was run on each side of the canal, 
 and the earth removed in cars, by steam- 
 power, while that removed by the dredges 
 was put into barges and towed out into 
 the lake, where it was sunk. During the 
 season of 1870, the company used, in 
 the construction of the canal, 5 steam- 
 dredges, 2 steam-excavators, 3 tow-boats, 
 2 locomotives, 4 pile-drivers, 60 cars, and 
 75 horses, and employed over 500 men 
 They have their own shops for the manu- 
 facture and repair of tools on the spot, 
 and have built a good-sized village, in 
 which are a store and a jail. A pier, or 
 breakwater, to run out into the lake for 
 about a quarter of a mile, on the west 
 side of the canal, has been commenced. 
 It is built of stone and wood, the " cribs " 
 being made on shore, and floated into 
 position, where, after being filled with 
 stone, they are sunk. A stone-quarry, 
 on the lake-shore, within two miles of 
 the mouth of the canal, gives employ- 
 ment to a large number of men, at sea- 
 sons of the year when work on the canal 
 has to be suspended. 
 
 At the Lake Superior outlet is a fine 
 site for a city, and it is believed that one 
 must soon spring up there, as the com- 
 pany intends constructing on the spot a 
 large dry-dock and a machine-shop for 
 the buiding and repairing of vessels. 
 
 On October 16, 1870, the two immense 
 dredges from the opposite ends of the 
 147 
 
Keweenaw Point.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. [Twelve Apostles' Islands. 
 
 canal met, and the waters of Lake Supe- 
 rior and of Portage Lake were united. 
 
 This canal cuts off the tedious and 
 dangerous circuit of Keweenaw Point, 
 saving 24 hours in the time, and about 
 120 miles in the distance of travel. It 
 will be the course taken by all steamers 
 not bound for one of the ports on the 
 Point. 
 
 Por the sake of making our description 
 of the Lake Superior trip the more com- 
 plete, we will retrace our way to Portage 
 Entry, and make the circuit of the south- 
 westerly shore. 
 
 Keweenaw Point is about 60 
 miles long, and from 10 to 25 miles 
 broad, and contains the great copper de- 
 posits, and much of the silver-ore of the 
 Lake Superior region. The copper, in 
 some places, is so pure that it is cut out 
 with cold-chisels. 
 
 line Kiii Relle is a beautiful lake, 
 having its outlet in Bite Gris Bay, near 
 the end of Keweenaw Point. It is en- 
 tered through a canal a mile in length, 
 and is in a rich copper region. Upon its 
 shore is a small village, named Mendota, 
 which contains a copper-smelting estab- 
 lishment, and is the outlet for several 
 mines. A railroad from this place to 
 Eagle River is projected. A few miles 
 west of Lac La Belle are Mount Houghton 
 and Mount Bohemid. 
 
 j?Sanitou Island, at the extrem- 
 ity of Keweenaw Point, is 7 miles long 
 and 4 broad. It is marked by a light- 
 house. 
 
 Copper Harbor (315 miles from 
 Saut Ste. Marie) is at the extreme end of 
 Keweenaw Point, and is very difficult of 
 approach, though, when it has been suc- 
 cessfully entered, it is safe and commo- 
 dious. The extensive copper-mines in 
 the vicinity are not worked, and the 
 place will probably remain inactive until 
 it is found profitable to open them. 
 
 E3agle Harbor (16 miles from 
 Copper Harbor) is the shipping-port for 
 the product of several copper-mines. 
 
 Eagle River (341 miles from Saul 
 Ste. Mark) is situated at the mouth of a 
 stream of the same name. It is the port 
 from which the copper from the cele- 
 brated " Cliff," and other mines in the 
 vicinity, is shipped. 
 
 Ontonagon, Mick. (400 mile3 
 148 
 
 from Saut Ste. Marie), is at the mouth of 
 the river of the same name, and, when 
 the mines in the neighborhood are work- 
 ing, does a large business. It is west of 
 the Portage Lake Canal, and is conse- 
 quently benefited by that great improve- 
 ment. A railroad is now finished, con- 
 necting Ontonagon with Marquette, and 
 two other lines, one from Milwaukee, and 
 the other from Appleton, Wis., on the 
 Chicago & Northwestern Railway, are pro- 
 jected, which will have Ontonagon for 
 their northern terminus. 
 
 Porcupine Mountain is some 
 15 or 20 miles west of Ontonagon. It is 
 1,300 feet high, and is a very prominent 
 object. 
 
 The Twelve Apostles' Isl- 
 ands, twenty-seven in number, are a 
 large and beautiful group, some 70 miles 
 west of Ontonagon. The clay and sand- 
 stone cliffs have been worn into strange 
 shapes by the action of the water. The 
 islands are almost covered with fine for- 
 est-trees. 
 
 The following description of the 
 " Twelve Apostles " is from Owen's 
 " Geological Survey of Wisconsin :" 
 
 " At a distance they appear like main- 
 land, with deep bays and points, gradu- 
 ally becoming more elevated to the west- 
 ward. ' lie au CteneJ or Oak Island, 
 which is next the Detour (or main-land), 
 is a pile of detached drift, 250 or 300 feet 
 high, and is the highest of the group. 
 Madeline, ' Wau-ga-ba-me ' Island, is the 
 largest (on which lies La Pointe), being 1 3 
 miles long, from northeast to southwest, 
 and has an average of three miles in 
 breadth. 'Muk-quaw' or Bear Island, 
 and ' Eshquagendeg ' or Outer Island, are 
 about equal in size, being six miles long 
 and two and a half wide. 
 
 " They embrace in all an area of 
 about 400 square miles, of which one- 
 half is water. The soil is in some places 
 good, but the major part would be diffi- 
 cult to clear and cultivate. The causes 
 to which I have referred, as giving rise 
 to thickets of evergreens along the 
 coast of the lake, operate here on all 
 sides, and have covered almost the whole 
 surface with cedar, birch, aspen, hem- 
 lock, and pine. There are, however, 
 patches of sugar-tree land, and natural 
 meadows. 
 
La Pointe.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [DULTJTn. 
 
 " The waters around the islands afford 
 excellent white fish, trout, and siskowit, 
 which do not appear to diminish after 
 many years of extensive fishing for the 
 lower lake markets. For trout and sis- 
 kowit, which are caught with a line in 
 deep water, the best ground of the neigh- 
 borhood is off Bark Point or ' Point 
 Ecorce ' of the French. Speckled or 
 brook trout are also taken in all the small 
 streams. 
 
 " That portion of the soil of the 
 islands fit for cultivation produces po- 
 tatoes and all manner of garden vegeta- 
 bles and roots in great luxuriance. In 
 the flat, wet parts, both the soil and cli- 
 mate are favorable to grass ; and the 
 crop is certain and stout. Wheat, oats, 
 and barley do well on good soil when well 
 cultivated. 
 
 " In regard to health, no portion of the 
 continent surpasses the Apostle Islands. 
 In the summer months they present to 
 the residents of the South the most cool 
 and delightful resort that can be ima- 
 gined, and for invalids, especially such as 
 are affected in the lungs or liver, the 
 uniform, bracing atmosphere of Lake Su- 
 perior produces the most surprising and 
 beneficial effects." 
 
 ILa IPoiiite, 77 miles west of 
 Ontonagon, was settled by French Jesu- 
 its in 1680. It is a fishing-village on 
 the south end of Madeline Island, the 
 largest of the "Apostles." Apples, 
 cherries, and similar fruits, are cultivated 
 here, and wild fruits and berries are 
 found in great abundance. 
 
 Bayfield, Wis., 80 miles from 
 Ontonagon, is the capital of La Pointe 
 County, and is upon La Pointe Bay. 
 It has a safe and capacious harbor, 
 the Apostles' Islands completely pro- 
 tecting it from the wind. The shore 
 rises abruptly, and the town stands from 
 sixty to eighty feet above the water, af- 
 fording a splendid view of the bay, the 
 islands, and the lake. The projected 
 Hudson & Bayfield Railway has been 
 surveyed. This line is to Hudson, Wis- 
 consin, upon the St. Croix River, and 
 thence to St. Paul. 
 
 €hairamcgon Bay, the en- 
 trance to Bayfield, forms a spacious and 
 secure harbor. At its head, 12 miles 
 eouth of Bayfield, i3 Ashland, 15 miles 
 
 east of which Maskey River empties 
 into Lake Superior. Ten miles still 
 farther to the east is Montreal River, 
 which marks the boundary-line between 
 Wisconsin and Michigan. 
 
 Ssiperior <DIfiy, "Wis., the capi- 
 tal of Douglas County, is 1,229 miles from 
 Buffalo. It was predicted to be the great 
 city of the Lake Superior country, but at 
 present there seems no prospect of its 
 anticipations being realized, Duluth hav- 
 ing proved the successful competitor for 
 the terminal station of the railways con- 
 verging at this end of the lake. Superior 
 is situated on the south side of the Bay 
 of Superior, which is formed by Supe- 
 rior and Minnesota Points, and which 
 with Duluth Bay extends eight miles 
 from Superior to Duluth. The bay is 
 three-quarters of a mile wide, is deep, 
 and is entirely land-locked. It receives 
 the waters of the St. Louis and JSfemadji 
 Rivers. Superior City was laid out in 
 1854, and for three years increased rap- 
 idly in population, but, unless something 
 happens to give it a new impetus, it is 
 not likely to become ever any thing more 
 than a small fishing-village. 
 
 Dulufli, Misim., 1,235 miles from 
 Buffalo, is named after Captain John Du 
 Luth, a French officer, who visited Lake 
 Superior in 1679. It is picturesquely 
 located on the hill-side. 
 
 To obtain a good view of Duluth and 
 its vicinity, the tourist should ascend the 
 hill to some point beyond the houses, or 
 should go up into the steeple of the Pres- 
 byterian church and look toward the 
 south. At his feet he will see the bus- 
 tling little city full of life and energy, 
 bearing everywhere the marks of its re- 
 cent creation ; to the extreme right are 
 St. Bonis Bay and River, separated from 
 Duluth Bay by Rice's Point, and from 
 the Bay of Superior by Connor's Point, 
 between which the river and bay empty 
 into Duluth and Superior Bays ; next 
 comes the island-dotted sheet of water 
 stretching from Duluth to Superior, and 
 called at the northern end Duluth, and at 
 the southern end Superior Bay. Direct- 
 ly south eleven miles is seen Superior 
 City, while to the eastward as far as the 
 eye can reach stretches Bake Superior, 
 from which the bays are separated by a 
 long, narrow thread of sand and peb- 
 149 
 
DULUTH.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [N. SlIOItE OF L. SlTEUIOR. 
 
 bleg pierced by two channels. One of 
 these latter, the natural communication 
 at Superior, is called the "Entry ;" the 
 other, at Duluth, is an artificial strait, 
 opened since 1870. The two points of 
 land are known respectively as "Supe- 
 rior" and "Minnesota Points.'''' A large 
 breakwater, about a mile from Minne- 
 sota Point, running some distance into 
 the lake, is building by the Govern- 
 ment, as a protection to the outer har- 
 bor, which is now only defended by the 
 long pier of the railroad company. When 
 the breakwater is completed, and the 
 bays dredged, Duluth will have a dock- 
 age front of 20 miles. Eour large piers 
 have already been built; two of them, 
 respectively 500 and 700 feet long, pro- 
 ject into the lake, the one being in 
 Duluth Bay, and the other in St. Louis 
 Bay. The climate of Duluth is salubri- 
 ous, the reports as to the intensity of 
 the cold having been greatly exagger- 
 ated ; the mean temperature in winter 
 is 16° Eahr. Transports came into the 
 harbor January 4, 1870; the first lake- 
 boat arrived May 5th, and the last left 
 November 22d, showing that navigation 
 was not exceptionally impeded by the 
 temperature. 
 
 The sudden growth of Duluth has 
 been wonderful. On the 1st of January, 
 18G0, the whole town site, with the ex- 
 ception of a small piece of ground on 
 cither side of Superior Street, between 
 First and Fourth Avenues, east, was a 
 dense and unbroken forest ; Avhile in 
 April, 1871, the amount of land cleared 
 and improved within the city limits 
 amounted to nearly two thousand acres. 
 Three crooked cow-paths were the only 
 thoroughfares from one end of the town- 
 plot to the other; now, there are nine 
 miles of streets well graded, and two 
 of these partly macadamized, besides 
 four miles of plank sidewalks of an aver- 
 age width of ten feet. Then, the build- 
 ings of Duluth did not number much, 
 if any, more than a dozen, and they 
 certainly were not worth ten thousand 
 dollars all told ; now there are fully six 
 hundred, some of which cost five, ten, 
 fifteen, twenty, forty-five, and even one 
 hundred and fifty thousand dollars each, 
 and since that time there has been ex- 
 150 . 
 
 pended here, as tables of statistics show, 
 more than two millions and a half of dol- 
 lars in buildings and in substantial im- 
 provements. Then, there was not a 
 dry-goods nor provision store in Duluth, 
 and the supplies were purchased in Su- 
 perior, and brought across the bay in 
 birch-bark canoes in summer and in 
 dog-trains in winter ; now there are 
 mercantile and business houses whose 
 aggregate sales during the year 1870 
 amounted to nearly $5,000",000, and 
 the freight received at and shipped 
 from Duluth during the eight months 
 ending December 31, 1870, amounted 
 to over 70,000 tons. Then there were 
 no railroads, but now the city is the 
 lake terminus of two roads— the hike 
 Superior, leading to St. Paul, and the 
 great Nortltcm Pacific, upon which the 
 track is laid to a point on the Mis- 
 souri River in Dakota 420 miles west of 
 Duluth. 
 
 The population at the time the cen- 
 sus of 1870 was taken was 3,500, and 
 the inhabitants were of a better class 
 than is usually found in a new city. 
 There are six churches, and more build- 
 ing, two newspapers, and good private 
 and public schools. There are two com- 
 fortable hotels — one, the Clark House, 
 being large, well furnished, and well 
 kept. There are also some smaller ho- 
 tels, and several good private boarding- 
 houses. 
 
 We here leave the steamer and con- 
 tinue our journey as far as St. Paul by 
 land ; but, as the tourist may wish to 
 complete the circuit of Lake Superior, 
 we will, before leaving Duluth, give a 
 brief notice of some of the points of in- 
 terest on the " North Shore." 
 
 Tlic NortBi Slaorc of JLalae 
 Superior, except to a few, is an un- 
 known region, and only at a few scat- 
 tered points is inhabited. The lake- 
 steamers in their summer excursion-trips 
 return from Duluth to Saut Ste. Marie by 
 way of the north shore, to enable passen- 
 gers to obtain a glimpse of some of its 
 wonders ; but, if the tourist desires to 
 visit any number of the many places of 
 interest along the coast, he must hire a 
 boat, and two or three experienced men 
 as a crew. For the convenience of any 
 
Encampment River.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. [Fort William. 
 
 5 
 
 
 7 
 
 n 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 80 
 
 3 
 
 33 
 
 8 
 
 86 
 
 T 
 
 43 
 
 M 
 
 53 
 
 5 
 
 53 
 
 1 
 
 59 
 
 6 
 
 65 
 
 8 
 
 68 
 
 8 
 
 T6 
 
 5 
 
 81 
 
 6 
 
 8T 
 
 of our readers who may wish to make 
 such a voyage, we give a table of 
 
 TLACES OS NORTH SHOKE OF LAKE 6UTERIOR. 
 
 Duluth, Minn. 
 
 Lester River 
 
 Kassabika River 
 
 French River (Copper Minos) 
 
 Buchanon 
 
 Knife River (Copper Mines) 
 
 Burlington 
 
 Stewart's River 
 
 Encampment River and Island 
 
 Split Rock River 
 
 Beaver Bay, N. lat. 47° 12', W. long. 91° 
 
 Palisades 
 
 Baptism River 
 
 Little Marais 
 
 Manitou River 
 
 Two-Island River 
 
 Temperance River 
 
 Poplar River 
 
 Grand Portage, Indian trading post, K. 
 
 lat. 47" 50', W. Ion. 90° 
 
 Isle Royal, attached to Michigan, 
 
 Pigeon River, boundary between the 
 
 United States and Canada 
 
 Tie Island, 700 feet high 
 
 Welcome Island 
 
 Mouth Kaininistiquia River, 
 
 Port William, Canada, N. lat. 4S 3 23', W. 
 
 long. 89° 27' 
 
 Thunder Bay, 30 miles long. 
 
 Thunder Cape, 1,350 feet high 
 
 Black Bay. 
 
 Point Porphyry 
 
 Entrance to Neepigon Bay 
 
 8te. Ignace Island (Silver and Copper 
 
 Mines) 
 
 Slate Islands 
 
 Pic Island 
 
 Peninsula Harbor 
 
 Pic River and Harbor 
 
 Otter Island, Head, and Cove 
 
 Michipicoton Island, 800 feet high 
 
 Michipicoton Harbor and River, N. lat. 
 
 47" 56', W. Ion. 85° 06' 
 
 Cape Gargantua 
 
 Leach Island 
 
 Lizard Islands 
 
 Montreal Island and River 
 
 Mica Bay (Copper Mine) 
 
 Mamainse Point 
 
 Batchcwanaung Bay (Fishing Station) . . 
 
 Sandy Islands 
 
 Maple Island 
 
 Ooulois Bay and Point 
 
 Parisien Island 
 
 Gros Cap, 700 feet high 
 
 Point aux Pins 
 
 Saut Ste. Marie, Canada 
 
 16 103 
 
 10 113 
 20 183 
 
 7 140 
 
 3 143 
 
 15 153 
 
 10 168 
 
 5 173 
 
 30 203 
 
 10 213 
 
 30 243 
 
 15 253 
 
 8 266 
 
 10 276 
 
 30 806 
 
 25 331 
 
 45 376 
 
 25 401 
 
 12 413 
 
 6 419 
 14 463 
 20 483 
 
 6 489 
 10 499 
 
 4 503 
 
 7 510 
 
 8 518 
 
 5 523 
 10 533 
 
 7 540 
 
 8 543 
 
 Encampment Stiver and 
 Ssland, Minn., are 36 miles from 
 Duluth. The falls near the mouth of the 
 river will afford a good water-power when 
 the country becomes settled. The shore 
 of the lake is abrupt, and iu some places 
 rises from 800 to 1,000 feet; the water 
 is too deep for vessels to anchor. The 
 
 greenstone cliffs, rising from 200 to 300 
 feet in this vicinity, are very attractive. 
 This place is noted for producing vio- 
 lent fluctuations of the magnetic nee- 
 dle. 
 
 The Palisades (58 miles) are 
 very remarkable. The rock rises from 
 the margin of the lake to the height of 
 over 300 feet, presenting vertical columns 
 from 60 to 100 feet high, and from one 
 to six feet in diameter. 
 
 Temperance Sliver, Minn. 
 (81 miles), is noted for its falls, about half 
 a mile apart. The Lower Fall is composed 
 of two perpendicular pitches, presenting 
 an almost unbroken sheet of water of 
 about 30 feet descent, some 200 feet from 
 the lake. 
 
 diirand Portage, Minn. (103 
 miles), is an old station of the American 
 Fur Company. The mountains rise boldly 
 from the water's edge, from 800 to 1,000 
 feet in height. 
 
 Ssle SSoyal, Mich., is between 
 Grand Portage and Keweenaw Point. It is 
 45 miles long and from 8 to 12 miles 
 wide. It is filled with rich minerals and 
 precious stones, affords good fishing, and 
 promises to be one day a popular summer 
 resort. The island contains a number of 
 small lakes, inlets, etc., and has one large 
 body of water, Siskowitl Lake, which has 
 no visible outlet. Of the five harbors of 
 Isle Royal, the principal one is Siskowitl 
 Bay, where is the only settlement within 
 50 miles of Eagle Harbor, the nearest 
 port on the main-land of the State. 
 
 Pigeon Stiver (113 miles) is the 
 boundary-line between the United States 
 and Canada. 
 
 Pie Island, Can., 700 feet high, 
 in shape resembles a slouched hat. 
 
 Port William, Can. (143 
 miles), is an important Hudson's Bay 
 Company post. Two miles above the 
 post, on the opposite side of Kaminis- 
 tiquia River, is a Roman Catholic Mission, 
 consisting of a church and 50 or 60 
 houses, inhabited by half-breeds and In- 
 dians. Near the mission is McKay's 
 Mountain, having an abrupt ascent of 
 about 1,000 feet. The name of the Ka- 
 ministiquia River was given to it by the 
 Chippewa Indians. It signifies " place 
 where there are many currents." Twelve 
 miles from the mouth of the stream are 
 151 
 
Thunder Bay.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 rapids, and 18 miles farther is a fall of 
 •jiiu feet perpendicular height. 
 
 *Tli«an«l«*r IBay, into which the 
 Kaministiquia empties itself, is about 30 
 miles long and from 10 to 15 wide. On 
 the cast is Thunder Cape, 1,350 feet in 
 height. At its summit is the crater of 
 an extinct volcano. The rock in some 
 places is almost perpendicular. 
 
 SBlaclk May (168 miles), 45 miles 
 long and from 6 to 8 miles wide, is sur- 
 rounded by high hills, two of which, 
 from their resemblance to a woman's 
 breasts, are called Les Mamelom. 
 
 Weepigon Kay (203 miles), 40 
 miles long, 15 wide, contains a number 
 of beautiful islands. The waters and 
 woods are full of fish and game, and the 
 hills, which almost surround the bay, are 
 rich in minerals and precious stones. 
 
 Ste. IgnaceMiUid (213 miles), 
 17 miles long and 6 broad, is noted for 
 its silver and copper mines, its beautiful 
 scenery, and the large quantities of brook- 
 trout which abound in the streams and 
 small lakes. 
 
 Slate Islands (243 miles) are a 
 beautiful group, of peculiar geological 
 formation. The whole coast along this 
 portion of the lake presents a succession 
 of tine harbors. 
 
 Michipicoton Island, Can. 
 (331 miles), 15 miles long and 6 broad, is 
 a charming place. It contains large de- 
 posits of silver and copper, and is indent- 
 ed with beautiful bays, on the shores of 
 which agates and other precious stones 
 are found. In the interior is a lake, en- 
 circled by hills. Michipicoton Island will 
 probably become a favorite place of sum- 
 mer resort. 
 
 Michipicoton Harbor and 
 ISiver (376 miles) is the site of a Ro- 
 man Catholic mission, and a post of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 Mnmainse l B oimt, Can. (489 
 miles), is where the Montreal Company's 
 copper-mine is situated. There is afish- 
 ing-station and a good harbor here. 
 
 €ari!x»n Island, which is near 
 the C( atreofthe lake, belongs to Canada. 
 It is 25 miles south of Michipicoton 
 Island, and is seen from steamers running 
 to Fort William. 
 
 We have made our sketch of the 
 uorth shore of Lake Superior as brief as 
 152 
 
 possible, as at present but very few trav- 
 ellers can have an opportunity of seeing 
 its superb scenery. When the country 
 becomes settled and known it is destined 
 to attract thousands of seekers after 
 pleasure or health, and its marvels will 
 then be scarcely less famous than those 
 of the new West. 
 
 Having completed the circuit of the 
 lake, we will resume our journey at Du- 
 luth. 
 
 Stations. — Lake Superior & Missis- 
 sippi Railway. — Duluth (connects with 
 steamers for all lake ports) ; Fond du Lac, 
 15 miles ; N. P. R. R. Junction, 24 ; Moose 
 Lake, 42; Kettle River, 61; Hinckley, 
 79 (trains stop for meals); Pine City, 
 90; Rush City, 102 ; North Branch, 114; 
 Wyoming (connects with stage for Tay- 
 lor's Falls), 126 ; Centerville, 139; White 
 Bear Lake, 144; St. Paul (connects 
 with railways diverging, and with river 
 steamers), 156. 
 
 On the 22d, 23d, 24th, 25th, and 26th 
 of August, 1870, the opening of the Lake 
 Superior and Mississippi Railway was 
 celebrated at Duluth and St. Paul in 
 the most enthusiastic manner, with torch- 
 light processions, balls, dinners, speeches, 
 and all the bustle and confusion of a 
 Fourth of July prolonged five days. The 
 first trains were run some days previous- 
 ly, but this formal opening was delayed 
 until the arrival of a large party of stock- 
 holders and other excursionists from 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The country through which the road 
 runs was an unbroken wilderness, except 
 near St. Paul, where the building ot the 
 road was commenced, and consequently, 
 as yet, there is nothing to describe in any 
 of the stations, which are collections of 
 unpainted pine shanties with here and 
 there an ambitious two-story house of the 
 same material. It is probable, however, 
 that a few years will see thrifty villages 
 all along the route. 
 
 The line of the road runs along tho 
 head of Duluth Bay and St Louis Hay, and 
 then up the north bank of the St. Louis 
 River to Fond du Lac, which is an old 
 Indian payment station, and was once 
 the headquarters of the American Fur 
 Company. This is the head of naviga- 
 tion upon the river, which lias a consid- 
 erable fall, furnishing a good water-powej 
 
St. Louis Dalles.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Centreyille. 
 
 at this point. The road now commences 
 to ascend by heavy grades, and in a few 
 miles reaches the " Dalles," crossing the 
 river once or twice and leaping several 
 ravines by splendid trestle-bridges, one 
 of which, 85 feet high, and 780 feet long, 
 is upon a curve where the grade is so 
 heavy that the difference in the elevation 
 of the ends of the bridge is plainly visi- 
 ble. The construction of the first 25 
 miles of the road was very expensive, 
 serious natural difficulties having to 
 be overcome. The time occupied in 
 building the entire road was two years ; 
 3,000 men during that time working sum- 
 mer and winter. In one place there are 
 several miles of piling through a swamp, 
 which could only be constructed when 
 the ice was strong enough to bear the 
 weight of the pile-drivers, the morass be- 
 ing too dangerous to permit of the work 
 being done during the summer months. 
 
 Tlie 5>ailcs of tlac St. Lou- 
 is J&iver, four miles long, are con- 
 sidered as among the great wonders of 
 American scenery. The traveller has the 
 fullest opportunity of seeing them from 
 the cars, as the track is continually in 
 sight of the river until it finally crosses 
 it, leaving it behind some 25 miles from 
 Duluth. In the distance of 4 miles the 
 descent of the river is 400 feet, the ap- 
 pearance being rather that of a continu- 
 ous rapid than a succession of falls. The 
 banks are almost — and in plaee3 quite — 
 vertical, and the slate-rocks through 
 which the water forces its way are rup- 
 tured and twisted in every conceivable 
 manner. In one place they are at right 
 angles to the stream, forming a dam over 
 which the waters roll with a sullen roar, 
 or through which they force their way by 
 one or two narrow openings like sluices, 
 gliding smoothly and swiftly down an 
 inclined plane to the broken rocks be- 
 low, where they froth and boil and rise 
 in clouds of spray ; then a few rods far- 
 ther on they will encounter other impedi- 
 ments, but this time the strata will be 
 thrown up parallel with the course of 
 the river, and the water, broken in a thou- 
 sand different channels, eddies and darts 
 along, a sheet of dancing foam, over and 
 around the sharp, black rocks ; and then 
 perhaps will come a short stretch of 
 6mooth water, terminated by another fall 
 
 and a rapid. The water is colored by 
 the swamps from which it is fed, so that 
 where it is deep and smooth, it is of a 
 deep, rich umber, but when shallow and 
 running swiftly over a smooth bed, as at 
 the crest of a fall, it is of a golden hue 
 like pure amber ; and, again, when froth- 
 ing and foaming it is beautifully white. 
 The effect of the sun upon the river is 
 charming beyond description, and the 
 contrasts of color between the forests 
 upon the banks, the naked slate-rocks, 
 and the chameleon-hued waters of the 
 stream, are wonderfully effective. It 
 seems a shame to mar the grandeur and 
 beauty of such scenes as meet the eye at 
 every point of the Dalles, but the utili- 
 tarianism of the day spares nothing, and 
 plans are on foot to make the immense 
 power here afforded useful for mills, man- 
 ufactories, etc., etc. 
 
 Slate- Quarries. — The immense depos- 
 its of slate which exist here are of great 
 value, and a company is now engaged in 
 developing this source of wealth at 
 Thompson, near the junction of the 
 Northern Pacific Railway, under the di- 
 rection of Mr. Thomas Arnold, formerly 
 of Lancaster, Pa. 
 
 "Wyoming, Minan. (126 ruilea 
 from Duluth, and 30 from St. Paul), is 
 near the crossing of Sunrise River, in the 
 heart of one of the finest hunting-regions 
 of the State. It is 6 miles from Chisago 
 City, a village on a neck of land between 
 Green Lake and Chisago Lake, both of 
 which are noted for their fine fishing, 
 and the abundance of game in the neigh' 
 boring woods. The country along this 
 road is, indeed, one net-work of lakes and 
 streams filled with fish, and surrounded 
 by woods, in which game of all kinds is 
 abundant. Several picturesque sheets 
 of water are seen from the windows of 
 the cars. 
 
 Ceaitrcvillc, Minn. (139 miles), 
 is situated on Rice Lakes, 4 miles west 
 of Forest Lake, and 3 miles east of Oneka 
 Lake, which is almost circular in shape. 
 The village has one hotel, which is a 
 great resort for sportsmen. At Forest 
 Lake, a lovely sheet of water, there i3 
 also an hotel. White Bear Lake, Bald 
 Eagle Lake, and Lake Phelan, all of which 
 lie along the fine of the road, will be no- 
 ticed in the description of Saint Paul, 
 153 
 
St. Paul.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Paul. 
 
 they all being favovite resorts with the 
 people of that city for fishing, picnic, 
 and driving excursions. 
 
 St. l*a«l (156 miles), the capital of 
 Minnesota, and the largest city in the 
 State, is also the capital of Ramsey Coun- 
 ty. It is upon the Mississippi River, at 
 the head of navigation, 2,082 miles from 
 its mouth. 
 
 St. Paul is one of the oldest settlements 
 in the State. The first recorded visit to 
 its site was made by Father Hennepin, a 
 Jesuit missionary, in 1680. Eighty-six 
 years afterward, Jonathan Carver came 
 there and made a treaty with the Nando- 
 wessie Indians, in what is now known as 
 Carver's Cave. 
 
 The first treaty of the United States with 
 the Sioux, throwing their lands open to 
 settlement, was made September 29, 183*7, 
 and the first claim was entered by Pierre 
 Parent, a Canadian voyagextr, who sold it 
 in 1839, for $30. It is the present site 
 of the principal part of the city. He af- 
 terward sold another claim, on which the 
 lower levee is now located. In 1840 Ve- 
 tal Guerin, who in 18*70 was still in St. 
 Taul, and was its oldest settler, built a 
 log house where Ingersoll's Hall stands 
 at present ; and in the same year, Father 
 Gaultier, a Roman Catholic missionary, 
 arrived and built a log church, which he 
 called " St. Paul's," and from that was 
 named the future capital of the State. 
 
 In the spring of 1849, when the Terri- 
 tory was organized, and St. Taul selected 
 as the capital, there were only 30 houses 
 in the place. In 1838 there were only 
 three white inhabitants. In 1846, 10; 
 in 1848, about 50; in 1849, 400; in 
 1850, 1,112; in 185*7, 9,073; in 1860, 
 10,27*7; in 1865, 13,110; in 1870, 20,045. 
 The city is peculiarly situated at three 
 different elevations, the lowest being the 
 levee, and a stretch of bottom-land, 
 formed by a depression of the cliffs, 
 through which a small mill-stream enters 
 the Mississippi. The main portion of the 
 place stands upon a plain which forms 
 the summit of a bluff of sand and lime- 
 stone about 100 feet above the river, pre- 
 senting for a long distance a precipice 
 of white sandstone, with a narrow beach 
 at the river's edge, from which it was 
 called by the Dakota Indians Imminijas- 
 ka, or White Rock. The third level is 
 154 
 
 that of the hills which form an amphi- 
 theatre around three sides of the city, 
 rising to the level of the high prairie- 
 lands. These heights are occupied by 
 residences. 
 
 The geological formation of the city is 
 so peculiar as to excite the wonder of 
 even unscientific persons. To the south of 
 Robert Street the soil is deep, sandy, and 
 free from stones ; at Robert Street is a 
 quantity of bowlders and drift, and a few 
 yards to the north is a horizontal stratum 
 of limestone reaching to the surface, and 
 underlain by the soft white sandstone of 
 the bluff. The upper layers of the lime- 
 stone are thin, soft, and friable, but, at 
 from 3 to 4 feet below the surface, are so 
 thick and hard as to answer for founda- 
 tion walls, and at from 6 to 8 feet the 
 blue magnesian limestone of which the 
 principal stores are built is reached. For 
 several blocks every store is built out of 
 the stone obtained in digging or rather 
 blasting its cellar. InffosoWs Hall is one 
 of these buildings ; the surplus stone 
 procured in quarrying the cellar was sold 
 for enough to pay the entire expense of 
 making the excavation. The white sand- 
 stone which hardens upon exposure to 
 the air is as easily excavated as dense 
 sand, and consequently there is but little 
 expense in making sub-cellars. 
 
 There are three good hotels in St. Paul. 
 The Merchants', which is the nearest to 
 the depots and the levee, is a large 
 building of blue magnesian limestone. 
 
 The Park Place, which is back on the 
 hills, surrounded by trees, is a pleasant 
 family hotel. 
 
 The Me/ro]x>li(an is on Third Street, in 
 the upper portion of the city, having a 
 tine view of the river. The building is 
 very handsome, and the interior arrange- 
 ments arc quite in keeping with the ex- 
 terior. 
 
 The principal places of amusement are 
 the Opera-House and Ingcrsoll Hall, each 
 seating about 1,200 persons. 
 
 The Opcra-Hotise, which is on Waba- 
 shaw Street, near the corner of Third, is 
 in a brick building, which also contains 
 the Post-Office. The auditorium is pret- 
 tily fitted up, and the stage is well sup- 
 plied with scenery and mechanical effects. 
 The building, etc., cost $50,000. 
 
 IngersoU Block, corner of Third and 
 
St. Paul.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [St. Paul. 
 
 Wabashaw Streets, is built of blue mag- 
 ncsian limestone. The first story con- 
 tains stores and a bank ; the second, 
 offices and the St. Paul Library, of about 
 4,000 volumes ; and the third story, Jn- 
 gersoll Hall, which is used for lectures, 
 conceits, etc. 
 
 There are 18 or 20 churches in the 
 city, some of them large and handsomely 
 finished. 
 
 The State Capitol, situated on high 
 ground, and occupying an entire square, 
 is of brick, and is by no means an elegant 
 building. It contains the State offices, 
 the legislative chambers, the State Law 
 Library, and the collection of the State 
 Historical Society, which can be seen on 
 any day between the hours of 10 and 12, 
 and 2 and 5 o'clock. In the second 
 story is a glass case of battle-flags car- 
 ried by the Minnesota regiments during 
 the civil war. 
 
 There are several large public schools 
 in the city, St. Joseph's Roman Catholic 
 Academy, and other private schools and 
 seminaries. The Stale Inform School is 
 near the city. 
 
 There is a free hospital managed by the 
 Sisters of St. Joseph, and a Protestant 
 and a Roman Catholic orphan asylum. 
 
 Several newspapers arc published in 
 the city ; three of them being daily. The 
 Pioneer and the Press, two of the best in 
 the West, are the organs respectively of 
 the Democrats and Republicans of this 
 locality. The Press occupies with its 
 various departments the whole of a large 
 stone building on Third Street. It is a 
 very complete and Avell-managed estab- 
 lishment. 
 
 St. Paul Bridge, 1,730 feet long, is 
 worth seeing. It is of wood resting upon 
 stone piers, and is an inclined plane 
 descending from the high bluff at the 
 foot of Wabashaw Street to the bottom 
 lands of West St. Paul. The largest 
 steamers can pass under it. 
 
 Carver's Cave is a great natural curi- 
 osity, near the river in Dayton's Bluff, at 
 the eastern side of the city, below the 
 brewery. It is named after Captain .Jon- 
 athan Carver, who, on the 1st of May, 
 1767, made a treaty with the Indians by 
 which was ceded to him a large tract of 
 land. The treaty, however, was not 
 ratified by the government. Carver has 
 
 given a graphic description of the cave, 
 although in somewhat exaggerated 
 terms ; but as his description has become 
 historical, and as the cave is now just as 
 he found it, with the extra attraction of 
 containing a boat in which the water can 
 be crossed and the cave examined, we 
 give it as he wrote it : 
 
 " About 30 miles below the Falls of 
 St. Anthony, at which 1 arrived the tenth 
 day after I left Lake Pepin, is a remark- 
 able cave, of an amazing depth. The 
 Indians term it Wakan-Teebc ; that is, 
 the Dwelling of the Great Spirit. The 
 entrance into it is about 10 feet wide, 
 the height of it 5 feet. The arch within 
 it is near 15 feet high, and about 30 feet 
 broad. The bottom of it consists of fine, 
 clear sand. About 20 feet from the en- 
 trance begins a lake, the water of which 
 is transparent, and extends to an un- 
 searchable distance, for the darkness of 
 the cave prevents all attempts to acquire 
 a knowledge of it. I threw a small peb- 
 ble toward the interior parts of it with 
 my utmost strength. I could hear that 
 it fell into the water, and notwithstand- 
 ing it was of so small size, it caused an 
 astonishing and horrible noise, that re- 
 verberated through all those gloomy 
 regions. I found in this cave many 
 Indian hieroglyphics, which appeared 
 very ancient, for time had nearly covered 
 them with moss, so that it was with diffi- 
 culty I could trace them. They were cut 
 in a rude manner upon the inside of the 
 walls, which were composed of a stone 
 so extremely soft that it might be easily 
 penetrated with a knife — a stone every- 
 where to be found near the Mississippi. 
 The cave is only accessible by ascending 
 a narrow, steep passage that lies near the 
 brink of the river." 
 
 Fountain Cave, near the stone brewery, 
 just above the city, is apparently hol- 
 lowed out of the rock by a stream which 
 flows through it. It contains two or 
 three apartments, the largest being 100 
 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 20 feet high. 
 
 There are some beautiful drives in and 
 around St. Paul. The visitor who wishes 
 to see as much as possible, in a short 
 space of time, should hire a carriage at 
 one of the livery stables, and pursue the 
 following course : Let him drive to Day- 
 ton's Bluff, on the east side of St. Paul, 
 155 
 
St. Tatil.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Pau*. 
 
 taking in a comprehensive glance at the city 
 and river, and the beautiful hills around, 
 obtain a view of the Indian mounds on 
 the Bluff, and visit Carver's Cave; re- 
 turning by way of the handsome resi- 
 dences of General Sibley, Horace Thomp- 
 son, and others. Next let him drive to 
 the capitol by way of Seventh and Wa- 
 bashaw Streets, pass up Tenth Street 
 and out of College Avenue to St. Anthony 
 Hill, thence through Summit Avenue. 
 Then let him drive up Western Avenue, 
 and return by St. Anthony Street, and 
 take a ride up Fort Street, returning by 
 Third Street. The roads leading from 
 the city are good. 
 
 The following railways centre at St. 
 Faul : Milwaukee & St. Paul {Minnesota 
 Division and St. Paul & Chicago Divis- 
 ion) ; St. Paul <£• Sioux Git;/ ; St. Paul 
 & Pacific; West Wisconsin Railway ; and 
 the Lake Superior & Mississippi. Lines 
 of steamers to all parts of the Missis- 
 sippi, Minnesota, and St. Croix Rivers, 
 connect with the railways. 
 
 There are many places in the neighbor- 
 hood of the city which can be reached 
 either by pleasant drives or by rail. Of 
 these the most popular is Wliifc Bear 
 Lake, 12 miles distant, on the Lake Su- 
 perior & Mississippi Railway. It is about 
 9 miles in circumference, with picturesque 
 shores and an island in its centre. The 
 Leip Rouse and the South-Shore Rouse 
 are good hotels to stay at for a few days. 
 The lake affords capital boating, fishing, 
 and bathing. 
 
 Minnehaha Falls, immortalized by 
 Longfellow, are reached by a delightful 
 drive past Fort Snelling, where the Mis- 
 sissippi is crossed by a rope-ferry. There 
 is a fair hotel in the place. Minnehaha 
 is certainly the most beautiful spot near 
 St. Paul, but hardly merits the promi- 
 nence which Mr. Longfellow's poem has 
 obtained for it. 
 
 Fort Snelling, 2 miles below Minne- 
 haha, is on the verge of the high bluff at 
 the point where the Minnesota empties 
 into the Mississippi. It is the oldest set- 
 tlement and Government-post in Minne- 
 sota, having been established in 1820 by 
 a detachment of the Fifth United States 
 Infantry, under the command of Colonel 
 .Tosiah Snelling, after whom it was named. 
 Since then, except from 1857 until 18C1, 
 150 
 
 when there were no troops there, it has 
 been a military post. It is so built as to 
 be a complete defence against the In- 
 dians, but would be unable to withstand 
 the assaults of civilized troops. The 
 fort presents a picturesque appearance, 
 from whatever point it is seen, and from 
 its bastions superb views are had of the 
 Mississippi and Minnesota Valleys. 
 
 Lake Como is reached by a pleasant 
 drive of 2+ miles, over a good road. The 
 town is on a small sheet of water, not 
 particularly well stocked with fish, but a 
 favorite place for sailing and bathing. 
 On the lake are two hotels, which are 
 well filled by visitors during the summer. 
 
 Phclan's Lake, where there is excellent 
 fishing, is only 3£ miles from St. Faul, by 
 rail. It is fed by springs and small 
 streams, and will afford an unfailing sup- 
 ply of water for the latter place, when 
 the works now constructing are com- 
 pleted ; as the lake is about 100 feet 
 above the city, no pumping machinery 
 will be needed. 
 
 Bald-Eagle Lake, 2| miles beyond 
 White Bear Lake, is noted for its fishing 
 and picturesque scenery. It is a favorite 
 resort for picnic parties. St. Anthony 
 and Minneapolis are always visited by 
 tourists. They will be described in the 
 chapter on Minnesota. 
 
 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 
 
 This is the most important river in 
 North America, as is implied by its name, 
 which, translated, is "Father of Waters." 
 It rises in Minnesota, on the dividing 
 ridge between the waters which flow into 
 Hudson's Bay and those running to the 
 Gulf of Mexico, and so near to the source 
 of the Red River of the North that, in 
 times of extraordinary floods, their waters 
 have been known to commingle. It is, 
 at its source, 3,1G0 miles from its mouth, 
 a rivulet flowing from a small pool fed 
 by springs. Thence it flows through a 
 number of pools or ponds, each larger 
 than the preceding one, until it expands 
 into Jtasca Lake, whence it emerges as a 
 stream of some size, and, continually in- 
 creasing, soon becomes a river. It first 
 flows northward, through Cass, Winne- 
 peg, and other lakes, and then, turning 
 to the south, rolls downward to tlie Gulf 
 
Mississippi River.] NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Landings. 
 
 of Mexico, passing over more than 18 
 degrees of latitude. Between the source 
 and the Falls of St. Anthony are many 
 rapids and water-falls, but the only one 
 of any magnitude is the Pecagama Rapids, 
 085 miles above St. Anthony. Here the 
 river is but 80 feet wide, and runs over 
 a sandstone bed, inclined at an angle of 
 40 degrees, descending 20 feet in 300 
 yards. From these rapids down to St. An- 
 thony's Falls, the river is navigable, and 
 much of the scenery is very beautiful. 
 The Falls of St. Anthony (which will be 
 described in the chapter of Minnesota) 
 form an insuperable barrier to naviga- 
 tion, and, between them and St. Paul 
 there is so much difficulty in keeping in 
 the channel, that no steamers ever go 
 above St. Paul, except those running up 
 the Minnesota River, and all of these are 
 small and of light draught. The river, 
 from St. Paul to Dubuque, passes be- 
 tween abrupt and lofty bluffs, distant 
 from each other from two to six miles, 
 and rising from 100 to 600 feet, the val- 
 ley or bottom being very beautiful, filled 
 with islands, and intersected, in every 
 direction, by tributaries of the Mississippi, 
 and by the various canals and " sloughs " 
 (pronounced " slews ") of the river 
 itself.* 
 
 The bluffs are principally of limestone ; 
 they are almost uniformly vertical and 
 rugged, being nearly destitute of vegeta- 
 tion, except at the base and the summit. 
 The limestone is generally of a grayish- 
 white, but is stained and streaked until 
 it is of every hue, from that of iron-rust 
 to that of the white cliffs of St. Paul. 
 The action of the weather, too, has worn 
 the stone into extraordinary shapes, some 
 of which are so like the work of human 
 hands that it is difficult to believe they 
 are not what they seem, castles, forts, 
 monuments, chimneys, churches, and 
 statues. There are grandeur and sub- 
 limity in every mile of this portion of the 
 river ; but it becomes monotonous, and 
 the eye becomes surfeited with too much 
 beauty. We shall therefore not attempt 
 
 [*A "slough 1 ' is a false channel. It is often 
 impossible for any but an experienced pilot to tell 
 one from a regular channel. At high water, some- 
 times, much time can be saved by steamers using 
 these sloughs, which are often more direct than 
 the channels.] 
 
 a verbal panorama of the river. Below 
 Dubuque, the valley continues to preserve 
 the same general characteristics, but the 
 bluffs are lower and more of a hilly 
 character, and the scenery, though still 
 beautiful, is tamer. Throughout the whole 
 of this trip one sees much to remind him 
 of the Hudson, but the latter is not so 
 beautiful. Below Alton the country be- 
 gins to assume more of the appearance 
 of the "Lower River" (as the portion 
 below St. Louis is called), and the waters, 
 now turbid and muddy, roll on a mighty 
 torrent between banks often low, flat, 
 and sandy, and the vegetation continu- 
 ally more and more tropical in its nature. 
 As this portion of the Mississippi is fully 
 described in the Southern Tour of the 
 Hand-Book of American Travel, no 
 further reference to it is necessary in 
 this place. 
 
 PLACES BETWEEN ST. PAUL AND ST. LOUIS. 
 
 LANDINGS. MILES. 
 
 St. Paul 
 
 Hastings, Minn 32 32 
 
 Point Douglas, Minn 3 35 
 
 Mouth St. Croix River. 
 
 Prescott, Wis 1 3G 
 
 Bed Wing, Minu 28 01 
 
 Head Lake Pepin '2 66 
 
 Frontenac, Minn 16 82 
 
 Maiden Eock, Wis 3 85 
 
 Lake City, Minn 8 03 
 
 North Pepin, Wis 5 08 
 
 Reed's Landing, Minn 8 106 
 
 Wabashaw, Minn 112 
 
 Alma, Wis 10 122 
 
 Minneiska, Minn 14 136 
 
 Mount Vernon, Minn 4 140 
 
 Fountain City, Wis 14 154 
 
 Winona, Minn 12 166 
 
 Trempeleau, Wis IT 183 
 
 Richmond, Minn 5 188 
 
 La Crescent, Minn 10 204 
 
 La Crosse, Wis 2 206 
 
 Brownsville, Minn 12 21S 
 
 Bad Axe City, Wis 16 234 
 
 Victory, Wis 10 244 
 
 t>e Soto, Wis 10 254 
 
 Lansing, Iowa 6 260 
 
 Lynxville, Wis 16 2T6 
 
 Prairie du Chion, Wis 14 200 
 
 McGregor, Iowa 3 203 
 
 Clayton, Iowa 11 304 
 
 Guttenburg, Iowa. 12 316 
 
 Cassville, Wis 10 326 
 
 Buena Vista, Iowa 4 330 
 
 Potosi Landing, Wis 15 345 
 
 Dunleith, 111 14 359 
 
 Dubuque, Iowa 1 360 
 
 Galena, III 20 380 
 
 Bellevue, Iowa 12 302 
 
 Savanna, 111 23 415 
 
 Sabula, Iowa 3 418 
 
 Lyons, Iowa (_ „ n .„o 
 
 Fulton,Ill. J M ^ 
 
 1ST 
 
Landings.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Prescott. 
 
 LANDINGS. MILES. 
 
 Clinton, Iowa 2 440 
 
 Albany,Ill 6 446 
 
 Camanehc, Iowa 3 449 
 
 Princeton, Iowa 10 459 
 
 Le Clairo, Iowa 6 465 
 
 Davenport Iowa I 18 4g3 
 
 Koek Island, 111. ( 
 
 Muscatine, Iowa 80 513 
 
 New Boston, 111 13 631 
 
 Keithsburg, 111 T 538 
 
 Oquawka, 111 12 550 
 
 Burlington, Iowa 15 565 
 
 Bontoosuc, 111 17 582 
 
 Fort Madison, Iowa 6 588 
 
 Nauvoo, 111 9 597 
 
 Montrose, Iowa 3 600 
 
 Kookuk, Iowa 12 612 
 
 Warsaw, 111 4 616 
 
 Alexandria, Mo 
 
 Canton, Mo 20 636 
 
 Lagrange, Mo 8 644 
 
 Quincy, 111 12 656 
 
 HannibaL, Mo 20 6T6 
 
 Louisiana, Mo 30 706 
 
 Clarksville, Mo 12 718 
 
 CapauGris 37 755 
 
 Mouth Illinois River 
 
 Alton, 111 40 795 
 
 Mouth Missouri ltivcr 5 800 
 
 St. Louis 20 820 
 
 Taking one of the large and elegant 
 steamers which run to St. Paul, we will 
 commence our trip down the river. The 
 first thing which will attract the atten- 
 tion of the traveller will be the boat it- 
 self, and its great dissimilarity to the 
 stanch steamers built to withstand the 
 storms of the great lakes. Instead of 
 the massive hull and bulwarks, we have 
 an immense flat-boat piled with freight 
 and open at the sides, with the blazing 
 furnaces and huge boilers in full view. 
 Above this, resting upon posts, is the cab- 
 in, extending like a long corridor the en- 
 tire length of the hull, excepting a short 
 distance from the bow ; a second cabin 
 is often added ; still higher and yet above 
 this is the "Texas" or officers' cabin, 
 which in turn is surmounted by the pilot- 
 house, far above which tower the lof- 
 ty smoke-stacks necessary to secure a 
 draught for the high-pressure engines 
 used upon all Western river-boats. Then, 
 too, instead of being moored alongside of 
 a substantial wharf, the boat is run " bow 
 on " up to the levee, and the freight is 
 carried on board on the heads and shoul- 
 ders of men (generally negroes), who are 
 called " roust-abouts," or more briefly 
 " roosters." While at work these dark- 
 eys arc very amusing, being full of antics, 
 and continually chanting some improvised 
 158 
 
 verses in which rhyme, and very often 
 reason, is entirely ignored. The effect of 
 this singing at night is peculiar and very 
 pleasing. 
 
 The hour for starting having arrived, 
 the steamer swings out into the stream ; 
 the band (for there usually is one on every 
 first-class boat) strikes up a lively air, 
 adieus are shouted by parting friends, 
 and we arc upon the mighty river. Look- 
 ing back, we obtain a fine view of the 
 beautiful city and the white cliff upon 
 which it stands, with the great bridge 
 spanning the stream. The railroad depots 
 are quickly passed, and, soon turning a 
 bend, we have nothing left of St. Paul but 
 the memory of the visit. 
 
 Half a dozen small villages are passed 
 in the first 30 miles. One of them is 
 somewhat noticeable on account of it3 
 name " Red Hock," which was given by 
 the Indians, who worshipped a large rock 
 at this point, which they painted red and 
 called Wakon, or Spirit Rock. It is 7 
 miles below St. Paul. 
 
 Slashings, Miiam. (32 miles), 
 the capital of Dakota County, is the first 
 town we pass of any importance. It is 
 situated at the mouth of Vermilion Riv- 
 er, which falls 1 10 feet within half a mile, 
 furnishing a fine water-power. A large 
 business is done in this place, it being the 
 market and shipping-point for a large 
 part of the county. Hastings was laid 
 out in 185G, and now has a population of 
 over 3,000. The Hastings & Dakota 
 Branch of the Milwaukee <£* St. Pa>d 
 Railway terminates hero, and the St. 
 Paul & Chicago Division of the same 
 railway crosses the river at this point, 
 The Vermilion Falls arc very beautiful 
 and well worth visiting. 
 
 IPoImt I>©Mglas, Minn. (35 
 miles), is the last point of Minnesota mi 
 the eastern bank of the river, as the St. 
 Croix River, which empties here, marks 
 the boundary-line of Wisconsin, between 
 which State and Minnesota the Mississippi 
 now forms the boundary for many miles. 
 
 IPrcscott, Wis. (86 miles), is di- 
 vided from Point Douglas by the St. 
 Croix River. It is the capital of Pierce 
 County, and is built upon a high bank 
 sloping back from (lie river's edge to the 
 summit of the bluffs. Its population i9 
 about 1,5(10. 
 
Red Wing.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Winona. 
 
 IScd Wing, Minn. (64 miles), 
 the capital of Goodhue County, is finely 
 situated at the head of Lake Pepin, on a 
 broad level plain extending to the foot 
 of the bluffs. It was formerly an Indian 
 village, and received its name from a 
 Sioux chief. It is a place of some im- 
 portance, the port and market of a large 
 and fertile region, and considerable man- 
 ufacturing is clone here. The population 
 is about 4,000, and rapidly increasing. 
 The Chicago & St. Paul Branch of the 
 Milwaukee c& St. Paul Railway connects 
 Red Wing with St, Paul. 
 
 Lake I*epin is an expansion of 
 the river about 30 miles long, having an 
 average breadth of 3 miles. By many it 
 is considered the most beautiful portion 
 of the Mississippi. The bluff's on either 
 side present peculiar characteristics, 
 which are found in such perfection no- 
 where else ; grim castles seem only to 
 want sentries to be perfect, and all the 
 fantastic forms into which the action of 
 the weather can transform limestone 
 cliffs are to be seen. For miles the 
 bluffs are indented with huge amphithea- 
 tres almost as perfect in form as if de- 
 signed for huge audiences, the land rising 
 to the level of the projecting bluffs which 
 form the portals, the curve being appar- 
 ently as true as that of any theatre ever 
 built. The forests Teach to the river- 
 bank, and the water is so beautifully 
 clear that fish may be seen many feet 
 below the surface. 
 
 Passing down the lake we come to 
 Bam Bluff, just below Red Wing, a well- 
 known landmark 200 feet high, and we 
 see Rush River and Cannon River enter 
 the lake, the former from Wisconsin and 
 the latter from Minnesota. 
 
 IFrontenme, Minn. (82 miles), 
 is a favorite resort for invalids and pleas- 
 ure-seekers, on account of its fine sce- 
 nery, hunting, bathing, fishing, and sail- 
 ing. Besides the sport afforded by Lake 
 Pepin, there are fine trout-fishing in the 
 streams and deer-hunting in the woods 
 of Wisconsin, on the opposite bank of the 
 river. There are prairie - chickens in 
 abundance to be found in the country at 
 the back of the village. On the beach 
 is a bathing-house for ladies. 
 
 Maiden Rock, Wis. (85 miles), 
 is a promontory 409 feet high, near the 
 
 lower end of the lake. Its name is de- 
 rived from an incident which is reported 
 to have happened about the commence- 
 ment of the present century. A young 
 Dakota maiden named Winona loved a 
 young hunter; but her parents wished 
 her to marry a warrior of the Waba- 
 shaw tribe, to which they belonged, and 
 tried to compel her to accede to their 
 wishes. On the day before that appoint- 
 ed for the marriage she went to the verge 
 of this precipice and commenced chant- 
 ing her death-song. Her relatives and 
 friends seeing her on the brink of de- 
 struction, called to her that they would 
 yield to her wishes ; but she did not be- 
 lieve them, and before any one could 
 reach her she leaped over the precipice 
 and was dashed to pieces on the rocks 
 below. The village on the lake-shore is 
 also named Maiden Rock. 
 
 ILalce City, Minn. (93 miles), 
 stands upon a level plain at the base of 
 the bluffs. In 1689, Perrot built a stock- 
 ade near here. Carver says that in 1760 
 he saw upon this prairie "the largest 
 buffaloes of any in America." The town 
 was laid out in 1856, and is now the port 
 of a rich farming district. Population 
 about 2,500. 
 
 Reed's Standing, Minn. (106 
 miles), is at the foot of Lake Pepin, where 
 the river again contracts, and is opposite 
 the mouth of the Chippewa River, a navi- 
 gable lumbering river, from which a large 
 trade is brought to Reed's. 
 
 Wabashaw, Minn. (112 miles), 
 the capital of the county of the same 
 name, does a large grain-shipping busi- 
 ness with Chippewa Valley. It is the pro- 
 posed terminus of the Green Bay & Wa- 
 bashaw Railway. 
 
 Minneiska, 'Wis. (136 miles), 
 at the mouth of the Whitewater, and 
 
 Fountain City, Wis. (154 
 miles), each a village of 500 or 600 inhabi- 
 tants, are passed, and after 12 miles of re- 
 markably fine scenery, in which we see 
 bluffs conical in form and covered with 
 verdure, others with vertical fronts, and 
 worn by the weather into most fantastic 
 shapes, the river, lake-like, and almost 
 filled with islands, we come to Winona. 
 
 Winona, Minn. (166 miles), the 
 capital of the county of the same name, 
 is charmingly situated on a plain com- 
 • 159 
 
Trempkleau.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [PoTosr. 
 
 tnanding a view of the river for several 
 miles. It is the largest wheat-market in 
 the State, and contains the State Normal 
 School, the building for which has cost 
 $100,000, several fine churches, and 
 numbers of handsome stores and private 
 residences. It was settled in 1851, in- 
 corporated in 1857, and now has a popu- 
 lation of about 8,000. The Winona & 
 St. Peter Railway, which has one of its 
 terminal stations here, together with 
 several other roads now constructing, will 
 make Winona one of the railway centres 
 of the Mississippi Valley. 
 
 'JTrempeleau, Wis. (183 miles), 
 is located in the midst of very fine sce- 
 nery. It is the port and market of a rich 
 agricultural region. Population about 
 1,000. 
 
 Monntnin Island (18S miles), a 
 high rocky island, is one of the most 
 noted landmarks on the Upper Missis- 
 sippi. Its altitude varies from 300 to 500 
 feet. 
 
 JLa Crosse, Wis. (206 miles), the 
 capital of La Crosse County, is an im- 
 portant place, doing a large trade. It is 
 situated at the mouth of the La Crosse 
 River. Among other handsome buildings, 
 it has a court-house which cost $40,000, 
 and has good schools and churches. The 
 boat-yard of the Northwestern Union Pack- 
 et Company employs a large number of 
 men, and there is much manufacturing 
 done in the city. The Milwaukee & La 
 Crosse Division of the Milwaukee & St. 
 Paul Railway and the Southern Mhmesota 
 Railway connect here. 
 
 The Black River, a navigable river 
 running through a fine lumber-region, 
 empties into the Mississippi a few miles 
 above La Crosse, and is another of the 
 channels through which business flows to 
 that city. 
 
 ILa Crescent, Minn., opposite 
 La Crosse, is a growing village of about 
 COO inhabitants. 
 
 Strownsrillc, j?Iinn. (218 
 miles), is the last stopping-place in the 
 State. It is a shipping-point of some im- 
 portance, with a population of about 800. 
 Pive miles above, the Kokah or Root 
 River empties from Minnesota, and five 
 miles below Raccoon River enters from 
 Wisconsin. 
 
 Had Axe, Wis. (234 miles), at the 
 160 
 
 mouth of Bad Axe River, is a small village 
 upon one of the battle-fields of the Black 
 Hawk War. A short distance below, the 
 Upper Iowa River, which rises in Minne- 
 sota, crosses the northeastern corner of 
 Iowa. 
 
 ILansing', lo. (260 miles), the 
 capital of Allomakec County, a place of 
 about 2,000 inhabitants, ships largo 
 quantities of wheat and produce. 
 
 Prairie du Chien, Wis. (290 
 miles), the capital of Crawford County, 
 about four miles above the mouth of the ' 
 Wisconsin River, occupies the site and 
 bears the name of an old Indian village. 
 It was settled more than a century ago. 
 The prairie upon which it stands is one 
 or two miles wide, stretching back from 
 the river to the bluffs. The city has several 
 churches, schools, and good hotels, and 
 is an important local shipping-point. The 
 Prairie du Chien Division of the Mil- 
 waukee & St. Paul Railway connects at 
 this place by ferry with the Iowa and Min- 
 nesota Divisions ; all steamers stop at 
 Prairie du Chien in passing. The popu- 
 lation is about 4,000. 
 
 McGregor, lo. (293 miles), 
 was laid out in 1845 by Alexander Mc- 
 Gregor. It was a very small village until 
 the construction of the Milwaukee tfc St. 
 Paul Railway, which has given it quite 
 an impetus. The population is about 
 2,500, and is rapidly increasing. 
 
 Clayton, So. (304 miles), is a 
 bustling town of about 1,000 inhabitants. 
 We now enter the lead-region, mines 
 having been opened near this place. 
 
 ^Kuttenber: 
 
 lo. (316 miles), 
 
 the port for a rich farming and lead- 
 mining district, was founded by a colony 
 of Germans. It has a population of about 
 1,400. 
 
 Cassvillc, Wis. (326 miles), is 
 the shipping-point of large quantities of 
 lead and produce. At the time AVisconsiu 
 Territory included Iowa, this was the 
 capital. Opposite the town is the mouth 
 of Turkey River, which is 150 miles long, 
 and not navigable for steamboats. 
 
 l*otosi, Wis. (345 miles), the last 
 landing in this State, is on Grant River, 
 two miles above its mouth. The town can- 
 not be seen from the steamer. It is pic- 
 turesquely situated in a narrow and deep 
 valley or ravine about three miles long, and 
 
DL'NLEITII.] 
 
 NEW YORK TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR I. 
 
 [Burlington. 
 
 13 an important depot for the rich lead- 
 mining district which surrounds it. The 
 population is about '2,500. 
 
 Dnaileitla, III. (359 miles), is the 
 first landing in the State. It is a village 
 at the terminus of the Jllinois Central 
 Railway and of a division of the Chicago 
 & Northwestern Hallway, where connec- 
 tions are made by ferry with the railways 
 running west from Dubuque. 
 
 Dubaqne, lo. (360 miles), the 
 capital of the county of the same name, 
 is the largest city in the State. It is 
 built partly upon a terrace 20 feet above 
 high-water mark, and partly upon the 
 bluffs which rise about 200 feet, the ef- 
 fect being that the lower or business por- 
 tion of the city is regularly laid out and 
 compactly built, while the upper portion 
 picturesquely rises street above street. 
 Julian Dubuque, after whom the city is 
 named, came here in 1788, but the 
 Indians drove his colony away, and no 
 permanent settlement was effected until 
 1833. Among the public buildings in 
 the city worthy of note are the Market- 
 House, the City Hall, the United States 
 Custom-House, the Episcopal Seminary, 
 and three of the public schools. There 
 are, also, 18 or 20 churches, some of 
 which are quite handsome. Dubuque is 
 the commercial centre of the great lead- 
 region of Iowa, Northwestern Illinois, and 
 Southwestern Wisconsin. The Iowa Divis- 
 ion of the Illinois Central Railway and the 
 Dubuque & Southwestern Railway connect 
 here, and all river-steamers stop at the 
 landing. Population about 20,000. 
 
 <lw alcana, 111. (380 miles), is on the 
 Fevre River, six miles from its mouth. 
 As large steamers seldom ascend the 
 river as far as this, Galena should be 
 treated as a railway-station rather than 
 as a steamboat-landing. It will be de- 
 scribed under the heading of Route IV. 
 of Illinois. (See page 11)8.) 
 
 SSellcviae, lo. (392 miles), the 
 capital of Jackson County, has one of 
 the finest landings on the river. It 
 stands upon a bank some 30 feet above 
 high-water mark. Eight miles below, 
 Makoqueta River enters the Mississippi 
 from the west. 
 
 Savaaiiiala, 111. (415 miles), is a 
 short distance above the mouth of Plum 
 Creek. It has a good landing, and is the 
 
 shipping-port for a large amount of pro- 
 duce. Savannah is also a station on the 
 Western Union Railway. 
 
 I^yoaas, lo. (438 miles), is a place 
 of considerable business, and by means 
 of the Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 tvay, which crosses the Mississippi just 
 below, has railway communication both 
 east and west. It contains several 
 churches, a female college, and an excel- 
 lent graded school. Fulton, III., nearly 
 opposite, is described in Route XII. (See 
 page 73.) 
 
 dlaatosa, So. (440 miles), and the 
 bridge across the Mississippi, are de- 
 scribed in Route XII. (See page 73.) 
 
 Camanche, Bo. (449 miles), is 
 a lively shipping-port, with a popula- 
 tion of about 1,500. 
 
 ELe Clair, fio. (4G5 miles), is a 
 place of active trade at the head of the 
 Upper Rapids, which have already been 
 described under the heading of Rock Isl- 
 and. The descent of the rapids is ex- 
 citing, but dangerous ; several steamers 
 have come into collision with the bridge 
 and have been lost. 
 
 Kocls Island, 111., and »av- 
 cmport, lo. (483 miles), have been 
 described in Route XIII. (See pages 
 76 and 77.) 
 
 Maascatiaae, lo. (513 miles), the 
 capital of Muscatine County, is built 
 on the summit of bold, rocky bluffs, for 
 40 miles before reaching which, the river 
 runs almost due west, but is deflected 
 by them toward the south, forming a 
 huge bend at the apex, on which the city 
 is situated. Muscatine was originally an 
 Indian trading-post named Manatheka; 
 in 1836 it was settled by the whites, and 
 received its present name. The place 
 has a large general trade, and engages 
 extensively in the manufacture of lum- 
 ber. It is a station on a Branch of the 
 Chicago, Rock Island <b Pacific Railway. 
 
 KeitlassWa-g, 111. (538 miles), is 
 a prosperous little shipping-port, former- 
 ly the capital of Mercer County. 
 
 Oqniiwka, 111. (550 miles), the 
 capital of Henderson County, has an 
 active trade. It is the terminus of a 
 Branch of the Chicago, Burlington, <£• 
 Quincy Railway. 
 
 liaia-liaig-fon, lo. (565 miles), 
 has been described in Route XIV. (Se$ 
 161 
 
Fort Madison.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Alton. 
 
 page 79.) The river here is broad and 
 beautiful. 
 
 JFoa-t I^Ia«HIson, lo. (588 miles), 
 the capital of Lee County, .a prosper- 
 ous place, is beautifully and health- 
 fully situated upon the site of a fortifica- 
 tion built in 1S0S as a protection against 
 the Indians. In 1813 the latter com- 
 pelled the garrison to evacuate it and 
 burn it. The city contains the Iowa 
 .State Prison, some handsome churches, 
 and several manufactories. It is con- 
 nected with the opposite bank of the 
 river (here nearly a mile wide) by several 
 ferries. Fort Madison is on the Burling- 
 ton & Keokuk Division of the Chicago, 
 Burlington & Quincy Railway. 
 
 r^anavoo City, MB. (597 miles), a 
 notable place in American history, is upon 
 one of the most beautiful situations on 
 the river, the ground rising regularly 
 with a gentle slope to a wide plateau at 
 the summit. In 1840 it was selected by 
 the Mormons as their future home, and 
 at one time had a population of about 
 18,000. The dwellings were mostly log 
 cabins, but The Temple cost over $500,- 
 000. It was built of polished limestone ; 
 was 130 feet long, by 88 feet wide ; 65 
 feet to the cornice, and 163 feet to the 
 top of the cupola. The basement con- 
 tained the " Baptistry," an immense stone 
 basin, supported by 12 colossal oxen. In 
 June, 1844, the prophet Smith and some 
 of his followers, who had been arrested 
 on a trumped-up charge, were taken from 
 jail and murdered by a mob. In 1848 
 the temple was fired by an incendiary, 
 and destroyed, and the Mormons were 
 expelled from the State, whence they 
 went to Utah. A company of French 
 socialists now inhabit the place. They 
 are but few in numbers ; only here and 
 there the houses being occupied. 
 
 Montrose, Bo. (600 miles), is at 
 the head of the " Lower Rapids," and 
 is the point for lightering the large steam- 
 ers when a low stage of water renders 
 navigation dangerous. It is on the Bur- 
 lington & Keokuk Division of the Chicago, 
 Burling/on it - Quincy Railway. 
 
 Keokuk, lo. (612 miles), has 
 been described in Route XV. (See page 
 82.) 
 
 Warsaw, 111. (616 miles), has 
 been described in Roots XV. (See page 
 162 
 
 82.) The Des Moines River, the bound- 
 ary between Iowa and Missouri, enters 
 the Mississippi nearly opposite Warsaw. 
 
 Alexandria, lo., is on Fox 
 River, which enters the Mississippi about 
 two miles below the Des Moines. It ha3 
 a population of about 1,000, but is great- 
 ly hindered in its growth by the frequent 
 inundations to which it is subjected. 
 
 Canton, W2o. (636 miles), is one 
 of the principal shipping-places of Lewis 
 County. The population is over 2,000. 
 
 fallacy, fill. (656 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Adams County, is a beautiful city, 
 standing on a limestone bluff, 125 feet 
 above the river. It has a public square, a 
 good court-house, several churches, ten 
 public halls, two daily and four weekly 
 papers. The country in the vicinity is a 
 rich rolling prairie, and is highly culti- 
 vated. The city does a large shipping- 
 business both by rail and river, and is 
 also something of a manufacturing place. 
 The Quincy Division of the Chicago, Bur- 
 lington & Quincy Railway terminates here, 
 connecting by branch to Palmyra with the 
 Hannibal c£* St. Joseph Railway. 
 
 Slannibnl, Mo. (6*76 miles), has 
 been described in Route XVI. (Sec page 
 85.) 
 
 ILonisiana, HI©. (706 miles), is a 
 village of 3,500 inhabitants, containing a 
 number of stores, warehouses, etc. It is 
 two miles below the mouth of Salt River. 
 
 Caj» an 43ris (755 miles) is the 
 point at the mouth of the Illinois River. 
 
 Alton, 111. (795 miles), stands upon 
 a high, hard-limestone bluff. If, as has 
 been suggested, "the powers that be" 
 should cut away some 200 acres of the 
 point of land between the city and the 
 mouth of the Missouri, the river would 
 hurl its raging torrent in vain against the 
 magnificent bluff, and would be a little 
 weakened in its onslaughts on the shores 
 below. This may some time be done. 
 Alton has, among many other churches, 
 a large Roman Catholic cathedral, this 
 city being the seat of a diocese embra- 
 cing Southern Illinois. The State Peni- 
 tentiary was originally located lure, but. 
 it was removed several years since to 
 Joliet. Alton has rare natural advan- 
 tages. With two mighty rivers at its 
 feet, and an abundance of coal and lime- 
 stone in the vicinity, it is the centre of 
 
Alton.] 
 
 PITTSBURG TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR II. 
 
 [St. Louis. 
 
 a rich farming country, the produce of 
 which here finds a market. To these 
 add the artificial advantages in the two 
 great railways, the Chicago & Alton, and 
 the Indianapolis & St. Louis, which con- 
 nect here, and the many ethers reaching 
 the city by means of those named, and 
 we find it has all the elements for the 
 growth of a large city. 
 
 " Tlie Meeting' of tBae Wa- 
 ters " of the Missouri and Mississippi 
 Rivers occurs 3 miles below Alton. This 
 has been pronounced one of the grandest 
 single views of river scenery in the 
 country. The Missouri technically empties 
 into the Mississippi, but it is really the 
 Mississippi that empties, as any one can 
 see who ever looks upon the scene. The 
 late Charles H. Sweetser, in his " Book of 
 Summer Resorts," thus describes his own 
 visit to his place on the afternoon of a 
 beautiful May day : " We reached the 
 point where the two streams meet and 
 seek to mingle, just as the setting sun, 
 surrounded but not hidden by clouds of 
 sombre face but silvery lining, was cast- 
 ing his last golden rays upon the water. 
 It may not be the good fortune of every 
 one to enjoy so fine a phase of the sun- 
 light ; but to stand upon the deck of 
 your steamer, looking upon the one side 
 at the placid Mississippi, clear and limpid, 
 flowing beautifully toward the sea ; and 
 on the other at the foaming Missouri, 
 rushing down upon the channel of its 
 fellow with a muddy, furious torrent that 
 sweeps all before it, and destroys for- 
 ever all traces of that gentle stream ; 
 this is delight unbounded, and may be 
 shared by all who journey over the Mis- 
 sissippi waters. Years ago, there stood 
 upon the eastern bank, just at the con- 
 fluence, the village of Chippewa, a place 
 of some little population and business ; 
 but the tremendous vehemence with which 
 the Missouri cast itself upon the clayey 
 bank proved too much for it to stand, 
 and the land has gone down the river to 
 seek the ocean, along with the other ac- 
 cretions from the north, and also the 
 south. All along the line of our short sail 
 we may behold the same process almost 
 actually going on before us. The banks, 
 soft and yielding, are losing on the one 
 side (and increasing on the other in a less 
 proportion), as the rapid current, knife- 
 
 like, cuts off great slices, carrying down 
 trees, fences, any thing that unwarily 
 remains to withstand such a foe. It is a 
 most singular and a most impressive 
 sight. We do not wonder that the In- 
 dians selected for their title of the river 
 a name which, while it robs us of any 
 solemnity with which the scene might 
 inspire us, certainly conveys to the mind 
 the character of the work done, and the 
 result — the Missouri is the ' mud river.' " 
 
 §t. ILotiiiis, Mo. (820 miles), is 
 reached after 20 miles of travel on the 
 now turbid river. We have completed 
 our journey of 2,211 miles from Buffalo, 
 all but 156 miles of which has been by 
 water. We are now at one of the great 
 continental centres whence we can go at 
 will in any direction. St. Louis is fully 
 described in Route VII. (See page 46.) 
 
 Tliis tour will require about Jive days, 
 and the ticket {including meals) will cost 
 about $75. 
 
 TO UM II. 
 
 PITTSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA, TO ST. 
 LOUIS, MISSOURI. 
 ' Via Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. 
 
 LANDINGS. MILES. 
 
 Pittsburg, Pa 
 
 Economy,Pa 19 19 
 
 Freedom, Pa 5 24 
 
 Beaver, Pa 4 28 
 
 Wellsville, 20 48 
 
 Steubenville, O 20 68 
 
 Wellsburg, W. Va 6 74 
 
 Wheeling, W. Va. I ir. 00 
 
 Bridgeport, O. ) i0 JU 
 
 Bellaire, 4 94 
 
 Elizabethtown, W. Va. | 7 i ni 
 
 Big Grave Creek, W. Va. j ' lul 
 
 Sisterville, W. Va 35 136 
 
 Marietta, O 35 171 
 
 Parkersburg, W. Va. I n 1S3 
 
 Belpre, O. ) 
 
 Blennerhassett's Island 2 185 
 
 Pomeroy, 64 249 
 
 Point Pleasant, W. Va. ) , , „„„ 
 
 Great Kanawha River ) i4 /w 
 
 Gallipolis, 4 267 
 
 Guyandotte, W. Va 36 303 
 
 Burlington, 8 311 
 
 Big Sandy River I „ Q1 . 
 
 Catlcttsburg, Ky. f 6 dl * 
 
 Ashland, Ky 6 320 
 
 I ronton, 5 325 
 
 Hanging Rock 2 327 
 
 Greenupsburg, Ky 6 333 
 
 Portsmouth, O. | „„ „ r > 
 
 Sciota Riveri ) M 6M 
 
 Rome, 28 3S1 
 
 Manchester, O 13 394 
 
 Maysville, Ky. I ,., .„«. 
 
 Aberdeen, O. \ " 405 
 
 Rinley, 9 414 
 
 163 
 
Mississippi River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Onio River. 
 
 I.ANIUNGS. MILES. 
 
 Augusta, Kv 10 424 
 
 Point Pleasant, O. I -,- .,, 
 
 Belmont Ky. J Xl * 41 
 
 Mow Richmond, 5 446 
 
 Little Miami River, O 14 400 
 
 Cincinnati, O. I c Arr 
 
 Newport & Covington, Ky. ) * 0D 
 
 North Bend, <>. ( .» ,™ 
 
 General Harrison's Grave j ' 4brf 
 
 Great Miami Eiver 4 487 
 
 Lawrcnceburg, Ind 2 489 
 
 Aurora, Ind 4 493 
 
 Rising Sun, Ind 9 502 
 
 i fig Done, Lick Creek, Ky 10 512 
 
 Warsaw, Ky 11 5*3 
 
 Vevay, Ind. & Ghent, Ky 10 53:3 
 
 Carrollton, Ky 8 541 
 
 Madison, Ind 12 553 
 
 Jeffersonville, Ind. ) ,_ rn „ 
 
 Louisville, Ky. f ^ ° yb 
 
 Portland, Ky. ] K „„„ 
 
 New Albany, Ind. ) D b,w 
 
 Salt River ct West Point, Ky 21 G24 
 
 Brandenburg, Ky 16 640 
 
 Leavenworth, Ind 18 658 
 
 Borne, Ind. { „ 7 fl0 * 
 
 Btephensport, Ky. j 6i 0J£> 
 
 Cloverport, Ky 10 705 
 
 Cannelton, Ind. ( 10 „,, 
 
 Hawesville, Ky. f 12 ,1T 
 
 Rockport, Ind 23 740 
 
 Owensborough, Ky 9 749 
 
 Green River, Ky 26 775 
 
 Evansville, Ind 8 7S3 
 
 Henderson, Ky 12 795 
 
 M omit Vernon, Ind 13 818 
 
 Uniontown, Ky 14 832 
 
 Wabash River 6 838 
 
 Shawneetown, 111 9 847 
 
 Casewille, Ky 13 860 
 
 Cave in Lock, III 9 869 
 
 Elizabethtown, 111 8 877 
 
 Golconda, III 13 890 
 
 Smithland, Ky 18 908 
 
 Padncah, Kv 12 920 
 
 Metropolis City, 111 9 929 
 
 Caledonia 22 951 
 
 Mound City, III 8 959 
 
 Cairo, 111., and mouth of Ohio River 8 967 
 
 Commerce, Mo 28 995 
 
 Thebes, III 6 1001 
 
 (ape Girardeau, Mo 9 1010 
 
 WUlard's Landing, 111 15 1025 
 
 Devil's Tea Table, and Cornice Locks. . . 1 1026 
 
 Grand Tower, IU 13 1039 
 
 ( luster, 111 34 1073 
 
 St Genevieve, Mo 16 1089 
 
 Fort Chartres, III 11 1100 
 
 Herculaneum, Mo 16 1116 
 
 Bt. Louis, Mo 83 1149 
 
 THE OHIO RIVER. 
 
 The Ohio is formed by the junction of 
 the Alleghany and Monongahcla, the 
 former being navigable for keel-boats as 
 far as Olean, in tbe State of .New York, 
 a distance of about 250 miles ; the latter 
 id navigable for steamboats to Browns- 
 164 
 
 ville, CO miles, and by keel-boats up. 
 ward of 175 miles. These two streams 
 unite at Pittsburg and form the Ohio, 
 which after a course of 1,000 miles unites 
 its waters with those of the Mississippi. 
 No other river of the same length has 
 such a uniform, smooth, and placid cur- 
 rent. Its average width is about 2,1 00 
 feet, and the descent, in its whole course, 
 is about 400 feet. At Pittsburg it is 
 elevated about 1,150 feet above the ocean. 
 It has no fall, except a rocky rapid of 
 "I'll feet descent at Louisville, around 
 which is a canal 2^ miles long, with locks 
 sufficiently capacious to admit large 
 steamboats, though not of the largest 
 class. During half the year this river 
 has a depth allowing of navigation by 
 steamboats of the first class through its 
 whole course. It is, however, subject to 
 extreme elevations and depressions. The 
 average range between high and low 
 water is probably 30 feet. The highest 
 stage of water of the Ohio is in March, 
 and its lowest in July and August, when 
 navigation is greatly impeded by sand- 
 bars and other obstructions. The varia- 
 tions of level in time of floods are very 
 rapid, and the river, at Cincinnati, has 
 been known to rise at the rate of over a 
 foot an hour for many hours in succes- 
 sion. Various estimates have been made 
 of the rapidity of its current, but, owing 
 to its continually varying, it would be 
 difficult to assign any very exact estimate. 
 Between Pittsburg and its mouth it is 
 diversified by many large-sized islands, 
 some of which are of exquisite beauty. 
 The passages between some of these and 
 the sand-bars at their head are among 
 the difficulties of the navigation of the 
 Ohio. Most of the obstructions have 
 been overcome by means of dams that 
 throw all the water into narrow chan- 
 nels. In the infancy of the country, 
 every species of water-craft was employed 
 in navigating this river, some of which 
 were of the most whimsical and amusing 
 description. The barge, the keel-boat, 
 the Kentucky-flat or family-boat, the 
 pirogue, ferry-boats, gondolas, skills, 
 dug-oyts, and many others, formerly 
 floated in great numbers down the cur- 
 rents of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers 
 to their points of destination, at distances 
 sometimes of o,000 miles. Owing to the 
 
Economy.] 
 
 PITTSBURG TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR II. 
 
 [Wheeling. 
 
 difficulties of navigating the river between 
 Pittsburg and Cincinnati, and the facili- 
 ties of speedy communication between 
 these cities by rail, the amount of through- 
 travel is comparatively small. The travel- 
 ler, as he descends this noble river in the 
 spring of the year — when its banks are 
 full, and the beautiful red-bud and Cornus 
 Florida deck the declivities of the bluffs, 
 which sometimes rise 300 feet in height, 
 impend over the river, and cast their 
 grand shadows into the transparent 
 waters, and are seen at intervals in its 
 luxuriant bottoms, while the towering 
 sycamore throws its venerable and majes- 
 tic arms, decked with rich foliage, over 
 the other trees — will readily acknowledge 
 the appropriateness of the title which 
 the early French explorers gave to it, La 
 Belle Riviere. 
 
 The tourist should first take a packet 
 for Wheeling. This will afford an op- 
 portunity to see all objects of interest in 
 that city before the connecting packet 
 departs. Then take a packet for Par- 
 kersburg, where connection will be made 
 with some one of the fine steamers run- 
 ning to Cincinnati. These steamers stop 
 sufficiently long at Pomeroy, Gallipolis, 
 Catlettsburg, Ironton, Portsmouth, Mays- 
 ville, Ripley, and other towns, to give 
 opportunity for examining the salt, coal, 
 nail, and iron works, at the extensive 
 manufactories which are located along 
 the Ohio River. At Cincinnati take a 
 packet for Louisville ; at Louisville 
 change to a packet for Evansville, and 
 there change to a packet for Cairo and 
 St. Louis. The amount of baggage is 
 seldom limited on these boats, and the 
 care of it may be intrusted to the porter. 
 
 Ecoiaoimy, I*a. (19 miles), was 
 settled in 1825, by Germans under the 
 leadership of George Rapp. They call 
 themselves " Harmonists," and hold all 
 property in common. They own 3,500 
 acres of land, and their village, which is 
 situated on a plain, contains a church, a 
 museum, and manufactories of several 
 kinds. 
 
 BcaTep, 1P». (28 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Beaver County, is situated a little 
 below the mouth of the river of the same 
 name, and derives a fine water-power 
 from the falls of the Beaver. There are 
 numerous manufactories in and around 
 
 the town. The Beaver Division of the 
 Pennsylvania Canal terminates here. 
 
 Wellsville, ©. (48 miles), was 
 laid out by William Wells, in 1824. It 
 is an important place for the shipment 
 of produce and wool, and contains foun- 
 deries, machine-shops, and the repairing- 
 shops of the Cleveland <£• Pittsburg Bail- 
 way. Nearly opposite Wcllsville, the 
 desperate fight between Adam Poe, his 
 brother, and a party of Indians, is said 
 to have taken place ; and two miles be- 
 low, near the mouth of Great Yellow 
 Creel; is the locality of the murder of 
 the family of Logan, the Mingo chief. 
 
 SteiibeBi-vi&le, O. (68 miles). 
 (See page 25.) 
 
 Wellstourg-, W. Va. (74 miles), 
 the capital of Brook County, is beauti- 
 fully situated on the east bank of the 
 river. It is a busy manufacturing town, 
 and exports large amounts of wool. Rich 
 coal-mines are worked in the neighbor- 
 hood. The town was laid out in 1789, 
 and was originally called Charlestown, 
 but the name was afterward changed in 
 compliment to Alexander Wells, who 
 built the first fiouring-mills on the Ohio. 
 Among the early settlers was Joseph 
 Doddridge, author of the " Indian Wara 
 of Northwestern Virginia." Bethany, 8 
 miles distant, is the seat of a college, 
 founded in 1S41, by the Rev. Alexander 
 Campbell. 
 
 WlaeellMg-, W. Va. (90 miles), 
 formerly the capital of the State, and 
 now capital of Ohio County, is situated 
 on both sides of Wheeling Creek, at its 
 mouth, and is the principal city between 
 Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The first set- 
 tlement was made in 1*769, and the city 
 now has a population of about 25,000. 
 Wheeling is built, for the most part, 
 upon an alluvial tract extending along 
 the river about three miles, and shut in 
 by hills. The beautiful wire suspension- 
 bridge, by which the National Road here 
 crosses the river, has one of the longest 
 spans in the world, it being 1,010 feet. 
 The height of the supporting-towers is 
 60 feet above the abutments, and 153 
 feet above low-water mark. Pour wire 
 cables, each 1,380 feet long, and 8 inches 
 in diameter, support the bridge. The 
 cost was $210,000. A splendid railway- 
 bridge, obviating the transfer of freight 
 105 
 
Bp.IbGEPORT.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [POMEKOY. 
 
 and passengers by ferry, was completed 
 in 1870. 
 
 As a manufacturing centre, Wheeling 
 possesses rare advantages from its imme- 
 diate proximity to large fields of coal and 
 iron, and to the oil-regions of the State, 
 and from its river and railroad connec- 
 tions. Like moat manufacturing cities, 
 it is smoky, dingy, and disagreeable. It 
 has the following railway connections : 
 by Baltimore <fc Ohio Railway and its 
 branches with Baltimore, Cincinnati, and 
 Sandusky, and by Cleveland & Pittsburg 
 Railway with the two cities named. The 
 Hempfield Railway, now partially com- 
 pleted, will be a short route to Pittsburg. 
 
 ISridg-eport, ©. (90 miles), con- 
 tains several mills and warehouses, and 
 does a large business in forwarding goods 
 to the West. It is connected with 
 Wheeling by the suspension-bridge. 
 
 SSellairc, ©. (94 miles), has been 
 described in Route X. (See page 70.) 
 
 <Krave Oeelc, W. Va. (101 
 miles), is the capital of Marshall County. 
 Pig and Little Grave Creeks enter the 
 river here, leaving an interval of a mile 
 in width, on which the village is built. 
 It is divided into two distinct villages, of 
 nearly equal size, namely, Elizabclhtown 
 and Moundsville, the former of which is 
 the seat of justice. Moundsville derives 
 its name from the Mammoth Hound in 
 the vicinity, one of the largest in the 
 United States. These mounds, which 
 are relics of the Indians, are so common 
 in the West that not much notice is given 
 to them. The great one near Mounds- 
 ville, which is 70 feet, and the one at 
 Miamisburg, Ohio, which is 68 feet in 
 vertical height, no doubt mark the graves 
 of personages of high consequence among 
 the builders of these monuments. The 
 common notion that the mounds contain 
 vast heaps of slain, and are the memo- 
 rials of great battles, is wholly unsup- 
 ported by facts. A very large mound 
 was entirely removed from near St. Louis, 
 Mo., in 1870, for the purpose of making 
 an embankment for the approaches to 
 the great bridge across the Mississippi. 
 In the same vicinity there stands one 
 which is tOO feet long, 500 feet broad at 
 the base, and 80 feet high, covering up- 
 ward of eight acres of ground, and hav- 
 ing 20,000,000 cubic feet of contents. 
 186 
 
 Many of these ancient structures are 
 undoubtedly of sacred origin ; but the 
 most common monuments of the Missis- 
 sippi Valley are simply places of sepul- 
 ture. 
 
 Sistci-villc, W. V». (136 miles), 
 has an active trade. Coal and iron-ore 
 are found in the vicinity, and several 
 turnpike-roads terminate here. 
 
 Marietta, ©. (171 miles), a flour- 
 ishing town, and the capital of Washing- 
 ton County, is very picturesquely situ- 
 ated at the confluence of the Ohio and 
 Muskingum Rivers, and is regularly laid 
 out on level ground. It is the oldest 
 town in the State, having been settled in 
 April, 1788, by a company of New-Eng- 
 landers under the command of General 
 R. Putnam. Fort Harmar Was built on 
 the opposite bank of the Muskingum, in 
 1786. Marietta is the centre of an ex- 
 tensive trade in oil (petroleum), which is 
 obtained in the vicinity, and is the east- 
 ern terminus of the Marietta & Cincin- 
 nati Railway, which connects with the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway at Belpre. It 
 has good schools, and several public 
 buildings, and is the seat of Marietta 
 College, founded in 1835. There are 
 also here a number of iron-founderies, 
 bucket, chair, and other manufactures. 
 Population in 1870, 5,219. 
 
 IParikersHjsarg', W. Va., and 
 SSelpre, O. (183 miles), together with 
 the grand railway-bridge uniting them, 
 have been described in Route XI. (See 
 page 70.) 
 
 ESleraiierl&assett's Island 
 (185 miles) is noted for having been the 
 residence of Herman Blennerhassett, an 
 Irishman of distinction, who improved 
 the island, and built on it a splendid 
 mansion for himself, in 179S. When 
 Aaron Burr was planning his celebrated 
 conspiracy, he induced Blennerhassett to 
 join him, and to embark all his means in 
 the scheme. Although not convicted of 
 treason, Blennerhassett was ruined, his 
 house w r ent to decay, and his beautiful 
 gardens were destroyed. 
 
 l B oiui»roy, CD. (249 miles), the 
 capital of Meigs County, is built on a 
 narrow strip of land, which is enclosed 
 between the river and a range of rugged 
 and precipitous hills, Including the ad- 
 joining villages of Coalport, Minerssvillc, 
 
Point Pleasant.] PITTSBURG TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR II. 
 
 [Portsmouth. 
 
 Carltonville, and Middlcport, which may 
 be regarded as portions of the same 
 town, it extends nearly three miles along 
 the river. Pomaroy owes its rapid 
 growth and prosperity chiefly to the 
 abundance and superior quality of the 
 stone-coal found in the vicinity. In 1851, 
 a company, with a capital of $25,000, 
 was formed here for manufacturing salt. 
 Two wells were sunk to the depth of 
 1,000 feet, each of which discharges 50 
 gallons of water a minute, containing 9.5 
 per cent, of salt. The quality of the salt 
 is said to be very good. Since this ex- 
 periment numerous companies have been 
 formed, and have been so successful that 
 Pomeroy has become one of the most 
 extensive salt-manufacturing places in 
 the Western States. Population in 1870, 
 5,825. 
 
 ff»oiiat Pleasant, W. Va. (263 
 miles), the capital of Mason County, is 
 on the site of the battle of " Point Pleas- 
 ant," fought October 10, 1774. Eleven 
 hundred whites were attacked by a large 
 body of Indians under the command of 
 " Cornstalk," a noted warrior. The en- 
 gagement was the most severe ever 
 fought with Indians on the soil of Vir- 
 ginia. It lasted all day, ending in the 
 defeat of the savages and their retreat 
 across the Ohio. 
 
 The Great KzaiaawEia Iftiver 
 empties at Point Pleasant. It is about 
 80 or 100 miles long, and is navigable 
 more months in the year than the Ohio, 
 but only to narrow boats, as the river 
 itself is very narrow. On either side are 
 broad farms, back of which are moun- 
 tains of coal, salt, and iron. The cur- 
 rent is very rapid, and the river will 
 sometimes rise or fall 12 or 15 feet in a 
 single night. Charleston, the capital of 
 West Va., is on this river, 60 miles from 
 the mouth. New River, Coal River, and 
 Elk River, all navigable streams, are 
 tributary to the Kanawha. 
 
 3naiiipol3§, &. (275 miles'), is a 
 flourishing town pleasantly situated on a 
 high bank, and having some handsome 
 public buildings,three steam-flouring mills, 
 a woollen-factory, and two tanneries. It 
 was a depot of supplies during the late 
 civil war. Population in 1870, 3,691. 
 
 Guyaiidotte, W. Ta. (303 
 miles), at the mouth of Big Guyandotte 
 
 River, 13 an important place of steamboat 
 debarkation. A railroad is projected 
 between this place and Covington, Ky., 
 to connect with the Kentucky Central 
 Railway, also a railway to the White 
 Sulphur Springs, W. Va., to be called the 
 Ohio & Chesapeake Railway. 
 
 15»aE*liiag-t©m, O. (311 miles), is 
 the capital of Lawrence County. In the 
 neighborhood are large deposits of iron- 
 ore and numerous furnaces. 
 
 The Big Sandy Kiver (314 
 miles) is the boundary between Kentucky 
 and West Virginia. It flows over beds of 
 stone-coal, and is a fine stream, open for 
 steamboat navigation for more than 100 
 miles. 
 
 Catlettsbnrg, IK y., at the 
 mouth of the Big Sandy River, is com- 
 paratively a young town, but is grow- 
 ing rapidly. Among its notable features 
 is a flourishing female seminary founded 
 and sustained by Captain Washington 
 Honsbell, for the purpose of educating 
 poor girls who have not the means to 
 obtain a liberal education. 
 
 Aslalanul, Ky. (320 miles), a small 
 village, is the terminus of the Lexington 
 & Big Sandy Railway, now building. 
 
 Iroaitosa, O. (325 miles), was laid 
 out in 1849. It is situated above the 
 reach of the highest floods, at the foot 
 of high hills, rich in coal and iron. It 
 contains large brick buildings, churches, 
 and schools, and a number of founderies, 
 machine-shops, and manufactories. 
 
 EUan.ging' SEoclt, 4>. (327 miles), 
 the depot for the product of several blast- 
 furnaces, has a rolling-mill and other 
 manufacturing establishments. It takes 
 its name from a cliff of rocks about -100 
 feet high in the rear of the town. 
 
 Orecnupsburg, Ky. (333 
 miles), sometimes called Greenup Court- 
 House, is situated at the mouth of Little 
 Sandy River, and is the capital of Green- 
 up County. 
 
 JPorftSEiioiatSa, O. (353 miles), the 
 capital of Scioto County, is beautifully 
 situated at the mouth of the Scioto, and 
 at the terminus of the Ohio & Erie Canal. 
 Steamboats ply regularly between this 
 city, Cincinnati, and other river ports, 
 and the Portsmouth Branch of the Mari- 
 etta & Cincinnati Railway terminates 
 here. The town contains several large 
 167 
 
Rome.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Lawrenceburg. 
 
 public buildings, iron and nail factories, 
 and forges. Iron-ore, stone-coal, and 
 fine building-stone are found in great 
 abundance in the vicinity. Population 
 in I860, 6,268 ; in 1870, 10,592. 
 
 Home, O. (381 miles), has an ac- 
 tive trade in lumber, and there are mines 
 of iron-ore in the vicinity. 
 
 Manchester, O. (394 miles), was 
 formerly the capital of Adams County. 
 It is a milling and manufacturing place. 
 The first settlement in the Virginia mili- 
 tary district was made here in 1795. 
 
 Maysviile, My. (405 miles), is 
 beautifully situated on an eminence, and 
 a range of bold and verdant highlands, 
 rising immediately behind it, renders its 
 appearance, as viewed from the river, 
 very attractive. It is compactly built, 
 and contains many handsome houses. It 
 is the entrepot of the goods and produce 
 imported and exported by the northeast- 
 ern section of Kentucky, and is the most 
 extensive hemp-market in the United 
 States. Maysville has numerous manu- 
 factories, among which are 2 steam cotton 
 factories, a large bagging factory, 2 iron- 
 founderies, 5 rope-walks, 12 manufacto- 
 ries of ploughs, and of coaches and wagons. 
 It was settled in 1784, and incorporated 
 in 1833. On the opposite bank of the 
 river is the thriving village of Aberdeen, 
 Ohio. 
 
 Kiplcy, ©. (414 miles), was for- 
 merly called Staunton, but its name was 
 changed in compliment to the late General 
 Ripley, chief of ordnance, U. S. Army. 
 It is the principal town in the county, has 
 a large trade, and is beautifully situated 
 on a narrow strip of land between the 
 river and steep hills. 
 
 Ang-usta, My. (424 miles), is the 
 most important town in the county of 
 Bracken, on account of trade and manu- 
 factures. It has several tobacco-wai-e- 
 houses, large steam flouring-mills, and a 
 tannery. This place is the seat of Au- 
 gusta College, which was founded by the 
 Methodists in 1825, being the first insti- 
 tution of the kind ever established by 
 that denomination. 
 
 There have been numerous human 
 bones excavated from the earth in Au- 
 gusta, proving it to have been a burial- 
 place in times long since gone by. A 
 resident of this town alleges to have 
 168 
 
 found 110 skeletons in digging a cellar 
 60 by 70 feet. 
 
 fi*oiiat Pleasant, ©., and JBcl- 
 mout, My. (441 miles), are small 
 villages on opposite sides of the river. 
 The former was the birthplace of Presi- 
 dent Grant. 
 
 1%'cw ISieBamiond, ©. (446 miles), 
 the most populous village in Clermont 
 County, contains nine or ten churches, a 
 Union school, several mills, etc. 
 
 The Spittle Miaiai Stiver (460 
 miles) is not a navigable stream, but 
 flows through a rich farming country, 
 and furnishes a valuable water-power 
 along its whole length. 
 
 i}incinaati, <>., and New- 
 port and Covlag'toiB, My. (466 
 miles), have been described in Route V. 
 (See page 31.) 
 
 The view from the steamer when 
 opposite Cincinnati is remarkable, and 
 one long to be remembered. On the one 
 hand is the densely-populated city, its 
 rows of massive buildings rising tier 
 above tier toward the hill-tops, which, 
 crowned with villas and vineyards, form 
 a semicircular background. On the op- 
 posite bank rise the beautiful Kentucky 
 hills, their summits still crowned by the 
 earthworks raised during the days of 
 Cincinnati's threatened danger in the late 
 civil war ; while at their feet nestle the 
 twin cities of Covington and Newport, 
 Kentucky, divided only by the Licking 
 River. Covington is united with Cincin- 
 nati by a suspension-bridge, and another 
 spans the Licking, between Covington 
 and Newport. A new railroad-bridge 
 over the Ohio connects Newport and 
 Cincinnati. 
 
 North Bend, $>. (483 miles), a 
 charming spot, was the residence of 
 General William Henry Harrison, Presi- 
 dent of the United States. His tomb, a 
 modest brick structure, upon a beautiful 
 knoll, is visible for several miles both up 
 and down the river. Standing beside 
 it, the visitor can take in a fine view 
 of parts of Indiana, Ohio, and Ken- 
 tucky. 
 
 The CJreat Miami Kiver (487 
 miles), an important though not a navi- 
 gable stream, is the boundary of Ohio and 
 Indiana. 
 
 Lawrenccbiirg, lad. (IS* 
 
Aurora.] 
 
 PITTSBURG TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR II. 
 
 [Louisville. 
 
 miles), has been described in Route IX. 
 (See page 59.) 
 
 Aurora, I114I. (49?. miles), has 
 been described in Route IX. (See page 
 59.) 
 
 Kisirag- §nn, Ind. (502 miles), 
 the capital of Ohio County, is a thriving 
 manufacturing town, containing several 
 handsome public buildings. 
 
 Big Home SLiick Creelc, 3£y. 
 (512 miles), is in Boone County. About 
 two miles from the mouth of this stream 
 are the Big Bone Lick Springs, the waters 
 of which are impregnated with sulphur 
 and salt. The place derives its name 
 from the large number of bones of the 
 mastodon, or mammoth, and the arctic 
 elephant, formerly found scattered all 
 over the surface of the ground in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 Warsaw, ffiy. (523 miles), the 
 capital of Gallatin County, is an enter- 
 prising village, and has several large 
 tobacco-factories. 
 
 Vcvay, Baa«l. (533 miles), a pretty 
 village, is the capital of Switzerland 
 County. In 1804 ii was settled by a 
 colony of Swiss, who commenced the cul- 
 tivation of the grape on a large scale ; 
 but the vine does not receive much atten- 
 tion at present. On the opposite bank 
 of the river is the village of Ghent, Ky. 
 
 Cam*ollton, B£y. (541 miles), 
 the capital of Carroll County, stands at 
 the mouth of the Kentucky River, and 
 was formerly called Fort William. It 
 was first settled in 1784, and the present 
 town was laid out in 1792. It has been 
 the scene of several contests with the 
 Indians. 
 
 The Kemtsicl£y ISivcr is a navi- 
 gable stream, about 200 miles long, and 
 is noted for its beautiful scenery. 
 
 Madison, Intl. (553 miles), the 
 capital of Jefferson County, is one of the 
 principal cities in the State in population 
 and importance. It is the southeastern 
 terminus of the Jeffersonville, Madison & 
 Indianapolis Railway, which was com- 
 pleted in 1848. The city is beautifully 
 situated in a valley nearly three miles in 
 length, which is enclosed on the north by 
 steep and rugged hills, about 400 feet 
 high. The site is elevated 30 or 40 feet 
 above the highest floods. Madison is 
 well built, and contains handsome public 
 8 
 
 buildings. The streets arc paved, and 
 lighted with gas, and have quite a busi- 
 ness aspect. Among the manufactories 
 are several brass and iron founderies, 
 flouring-mills, and planing-mills. The 
 building of steamboats is an important 
 branch of industry at Madison. Naviga- 
 tion is open all winter, and steamboats 
 make daily passages between the port and 
 Cincinnati and Louisville. Pop. 12,000. 
 
 Jeffersonrille, Ia«l. (598 
 miles), is a flourishing town, situated on 
 an elevation which presents a delightful 
 view of the city of Louisville, of the 
 broad and winding river with its verdant 
 islands, and a range of hills a few miles 
 distant. The Ohio is about a mile wide 
 opposite this town, and is here crossed 
 by one of the finest bridges in the United 
 States, giving unbroken connection be- 
 tween the railway systems of the Southern 
 States. Jeffersonville is the Southern 
 terminus of the Jeffersonville, Madison <& 
 Indianapolis Railway. It contains many 
 handsome churches, a large manufactory 
 of locomotives and cars, machine-shops, 
 mills, and the Southern State Prison of 
 Indiana. 
 
 ILouisville, Ky. (598 miles), the 
 largest city in the State, and, com- 
 mercially, one of the most important in 
 the country, will be found fully described 
 in Appletons' Hano-Book op Travel — 
 Southern Tour. It is a point of depart- 
 ure for the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, 
 a natural curiosity which every tourist 
 should see, and which is described in the 
 Southern Tour. 
 
 The Falls of the Ohio, just below Louis- 
 ville, obstruct navigation entirely at low 
 stages of water. The descent is 23 feet 
 in two miles. To obviate this, a canal was 
 made around them, to Shippingsport, a 
 distance of 2£ miles. It was a work of 
 stupendous labor, being cut, a greater 
 part of its length, through solid rock. It 
 is, in some places, 40 feet deep, and of 
 sufficient width to allow the passage of 
 steamboats ; it affords fine water-power 
 for the mill-seats below the locks. 
 
 On the 24th of September, 1816, the 
 steamboat Washington, under the com- 
 mand of Captain Shreve, made the first 
 voyage accomplished by a steam-vessel 
 from Louisville to New Orleans. On the 3d 
 of March, 1817, she started on another 
 160 
 
Portland.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [CaNNELTOS. 
 
 trip, and made the time to New Orleans 
 and back in 41 days ; the ascending 
 voyage being made in 25 days. A public 
 dinner was given to the captain by the 
 citizens of Louisville, at which be pre- 
 dicted that the day was not far distant 
 when the trip would be made in ten days. 
 It has since been made in less than five 
 days. 
 
 Portland, Ky. (603 miles), situ- 
 ated at the lower termination of the 
 canal made around the rapids, has a 
 large trade. 
 
 New Albany, Intl. (603 miles), 
 which lies on the other side of the river, 
 is an important place — in fact, the chief 
 commercial town of the State. Steam- 
 boats arrive and depart daily from and 
 to all points on the Ohio and Mississippi. 
 The streets of New Albany are wide, 
 straight, well paved, and well lighted 
 with gas. The town contains 18 churches, 
 a collegiate institute, a Presbyterian 
 theological seminary, banks, and large 
 public school houses. Steamboat-build- 
 ing is carried on more extensively here 
 than at any other place on the Ohio, ex- 
 cepting Cincinnati. The manufactories 
 of the place are numerous and various. 
 New Albany is the terminus of the Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Railway. It 
 was laid out in 1813. The population in 
 1840 was 4,226; in 1860, 12,647; in 
 1870, 16,205. 
 
 West Point, Ky. (624 miles), 
 at the mouth of Salt River, has an ex- 
 tensive boat-building yard. 
 
 ISranuciiburg', My . (640 miles), 
 the capital of Meade County, is situated 
 on a high bluff' affording fine views of 
 the river and adjacent country. It has a 
 prosperous trade. 
 
 Leavcavrorth, Qiid. (658 miles), 
 the capital of Crawford County, is situ- 
 ated at the Horseslioe Rend. It is the 
 principal shipping-point for an extensive 
 region. The coal-fields of Indiana com- 
 mence here. 
 
 Wyandotte Cave is in Crawford 
 County, five miles from Leavenworth, 
 near the Rluc River, and 400 feet above 
 the water. It has two general divisions, 
 called Old, or " Epsom Salts Cave" and 
 '■'■New Cave.'''' It has been explored 22 
 miles, and many portions still remain 
 unvisitcd. As tar as now known, its 
 170 
 
 greatest width is 300 feet, and its greatest 
 height 215 feet. Some of its most noted 
 features are " Randits' Hall," "Pluto's 
 Ravine," " Monument Mountain," " Luci- 
 fer's Gorge," and " Calypso's Islanil." 
 Among its wonders is a white column 30 
 feet high and 15 in diameter, regularly 
 and beautifully fluted, and surrounded 
 by other formations of the same charac- 
 ter. Epsom salts, nitre, gypsum, and 
 aluminous earth, are found in the soil 
 of the floor. Inside the cave is the 
 picture of an Indian rudely painted on 
 the rock. 
 
 Utome, lad. (695 miles), the capital 
 of Perry County, and Stephensport, Ky., 
 at the mouth of Sinking Creek, are on 
 opposite sides of the river. They are 
 small villages. 
 
 $inlcing Creelc rises in the upper 
 part of Breckenridge County, Ky. It is 
 a large stream, supplying abundance of 
 water-power for mills during the whole 
 year ; six or seven miles from its source, 
 it sinks beneath the surface of the 
 earth, showing no trace of its presence 
 for five or six miles, when it reappears 
 above-ground and flows into the Ohio. 
 On this creek is to be seen a natural 
 rock mill-dam, eight feet high and 40 
 feet wide, which answers all the purposes 
 of a dam to a mill which has been erected 
 at the place. Near the creek is Peni- 
 tentiary Cave, which has never been fully 
 explored. 
 
 Cloverport, My. (705 miles), 
 docs a large business in shipping prod- 
 uce. Coal is abundant in the vicinity. 
 Four miles from the village are the 
 White Sulphur Springs, a fashionable 
 watering-place. (See Apfletons' Hand- 
 book op American Travel — Southern 
 Tour.) 
 
 Cannclton, Intl. (717 miles), 
 has several churches and handsome resi- 
 dences, and a cotton-factory, which 
 employs several hundred hands. Popu- 
 lation about 2,500. The factory pre- 
 sents a splendid appearance from the 
 river ; it is 300 feet long and four stories 
 high, built of variegated sandstone. In- 
 tensive beds of coal arc found in the 
 adjoining hills, giving the place great ad- 
 vantages as a manufacturing town. Fire- 
 clay and a fine sandstone for building- 
 purposes arc found here in abundance. 
 
IIawesville.] 
 
 PITTSBURG TO ST. LOUIS, TOUR II. 
 
 [Paducah. 
 
 H&wesville, Ky. (71*7 miles), 
 the capital of Hancock County, has a 
 large coal-trade. 
 
 Kocltport, 1m«!. (740 miles), the 
 capital of Spencer County, is pictu- 
 resquely situated on a high bluff. Its 
 name is derived from a hanging rock, 
 known as Lady Washington's Hock, which 
 rises about 30 feet above the river at its 
 ordinary level. 
 
 4>wensl»oi*ong-M, Ky. (749 
 miles), the capital of Daviess County, is a 
 thriving shipping-port. The navigation 
 of the river is seldom obstructed either by 
 ice or low water below this place. It is 
 in a fertile region abounding in minerals. 
 
 €j}rcen ISiver, My. (725 miles) 
 is a navigable stream, as is also its tribu- 
 tary, the Big Barren. 
 
 Evansville, Ind. (783 miles), a 
 port of entry and a flourishing city, is 
 the capital of Vanderburg County. It is 
 the southern terminus of the Evansville 
 & Crawfordsville Railway, and of the 
 Wabash & Erie Canal, which is about 
 400 miles long, the most extensive in the 
 Union. Among the public buildings are 
 the branch of the State Bank, a fine edi- 
 fice, and a marine hospital. Evansville 
 has 30 churches, a large court-house, sev- 
 eral banks, a theatre, and four public 
 halls. It is the principal shipping-point 
 for the grain and pork of southwestern 
 Indiana, and has large and important 
 manufactories. Population in 1860, 11,- 
 484; in 1870, 21,830. 
 
 Henderson, My. (795 miles), 
 the capital of Henderson County, is a 
 flourishing place, situated in the midst 
 of a fine agricultural region, abounding 
 in coal and iron. 
 
 Mount Vernon, Snd. (818 
 miles), the capital of Posey County, stands 
 on a tine blutf, commanding an extensive 
 and beautiful view of the river. 
 
 Uniontown, My. (832 miles), is 
 a small village in Union County. A few 
 miles from it, on Highland Creek, is a fine 
 tar-spring. There are a number of curi- 
 osities in the county, worthy of observa- 
 tion. One is a large flat rock, with per- 
 fect resemblance of the naked feet of 
 men and animals deeply imprinted iu it. 
 There is also a cavern, which is thought 
 to be of great extent, but has not yet 
 been fully explored. 
 
 The Wabash Kiver (838 miles), 
 for nearly 200 miles the boundary be- 
 tween Indiana and Illinois, is navigable 
 for flat-boats 400 miles. At high water, 
 steamboats ascend as far as Lafayette. 
 
 Shawneetown, 111. (847 miles), 
 derives its name from the Shawnee tribe 
 of Indians, who once occupied this site. 
 It is one of the most important commer- 
 cial places in the southern part of the 
 State. A new line of railroad, connecting 
 the northern and southern systems, is now 
 building, and will pass through Shawnee- 
 town. 
 
 Caseyviile, My. (860 miles), is a 
 small village. About three miles distant 
 may be seen a natural curiosity, termed 
 Anvil Bock, which is some 50 feet high, 
 20 feet wide, and two feet thick, and 
 bears a striking resemblance to a black- 
 smith's anvil. It stands upon level bot- 
 tom-land, and is entirely isolated. 
 
 Two miles below the village, on the 
 opposite bank of the river, is Battery 
 Rock, a high and picturesque bluff. 
 
 Cave in Koeli. 111. (869 miles), 
 is one of the most noted places on the 
 river. About the year 1801, a band of 
 river pirates, under the command of an 
 outlaw named Mason, made this their 
 headquarters, whence they sallied forth 
 to rob and murder passing boatmen. 
 The Governor of Mississippi put a price 
 of $500 on Mason's head. One of the 
 band, named Harpe, turned traitor, shot 
 Mason, cut off his head, and carried it to 
 the capital, where he was paid the re- 
 ward. 
 
 Elizabethtown, 111. (877 
 miles),, the capital of Hardin County, is 
 in the neighborhood of rich lead-mines. 
 
 Cioleonda, 111. (890 miles), the 
 capital of Pope County, is situated at 
 the mouth of Lusk Creek. 
 
 gmithlancl, My. (908 miles), 
 used to have some importance as a ship- 
 ping-port, but this is declining, on ac- 
 count of the channel changing to the 
 other side of the river. It is at the 
 mouth of the Cumberland River. 
 
 Paducah, My. (920 miles), the 
 capital of McCracken County, derives its 
 name from an Indian chief who once re- 
 sided in this vicinity. It has a large ex- 
 port shipping-trade in tobacco, pork, 
 mules, horses, etc. A fine range of ware- 
 171 
 
Metropolis City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Grand Tower. 
 
 houses fronts the river. During the civil 
 war, Paducah was a place of considerable 
 importance, from its position at the mouth 
 of the Tennessee River. 
 
 Metropolis City, III. (929 
 miles), is the capital of Massac County. 
 At the time of "Aaron Burr's conspir- 
 acy," the troops sent by the Govern- 
 ment to frustrate his plans built a fort 
 two mile above, where the village now 
 stands, and named it Fort Massac. There 
 is nothing now left to mark the spot. 
 
 Caleuoaiia, 111. (951 miles), the 
 capital of Pulaski County, is a small vil- 
 lage. 
 
 Mound City, 111. (959 miles), is 
 the site of the United States River Navy- 
 Yard. It is six miles above Cairo, and 
 eight miles above the mouth of the river. 
 
 Cairo, III. (967 miles), the capital 
 of Alexander County, is situated upon 
 the point of land formed by the conflu- 
 ence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, 
 and is the southernmost point of the 
 State. Though always recognized as an 
 important position, and one destined to 
 become the site of a large city, the dis- 
 advantages which stood as barriers in 
 the way of private enterprise, and the 
 exceptionally unhealthy character of the 
 locality, frustrated all attempts at build- 
 ing up a town upon a spot subject to in- 
 undation at any flood of either of the two 
 great rivers. The prosperity the place 
 dates from the completion of the Illinois 
 Central Railway. The company built a 
 levee, which acts as a barrier against the 
 water, and made other important im- 
 provements. On the 7th of August, 1855, 
 the first train of cars reached the city. 
 In 1850, the population was 242; it is 
 now between 12,000 and 15,000. Every 
 steamer plying between places on the 
 Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, or between 
 ports upon the Upper and Lower Missis- 
 sippi, stops at Cairo to receive and dis- 
 charge freight and passengers. The 
 buildings erected by the General Govern- 
 ment, and the county buildings, are large 
 and handsome, especially the Custom- 
 house, which is of cut stone, and cost 
 about $200,000. During the civil war, 
 Cairo was an important depot of supplies. 
 A steam-packet, plying between Colum- 
 bus, Ky., and Cairo, forms the connecting 
 link in the chain of railway commuui- 
 172 
 
 cation by the Mobile & Ohio and IHinois 
 ( 'enlral Railways between New Orleans 
 and Chicago. 
 
 Commerce, Mo. (995 miles), 
 owes its importance as a shipping-port to 
 the country behind it, which is noted for 
 breeding remarkably fine cattle. The 
 Mississippi bottom at this point is broad 
 and fertile, but, being subject to inunda- 
 tions, the towns are generally built far 
 back upon the highlands or bluffs, the 
 steamer landings being mere hamlets, 
 serving as ports for the settlements in 
 their rear. 
 
 TTIieltoes, 111. (1,001 miles), was 
 formerly the capital of Alexander County, 
 but since that has been removed to Cairo, 
 the village is only a shipping-point. 
 
 Cape €rirardcan, Mo. (1,010 
 miles), is the seat of St. Vincent's College. 
 It is situated in a rich county, extensively 
 cultivated. The county, bearing the same 
 name, was settled in 1794, by the French 
 and Germans. 
 
 Willaru's Hiaiicling-, 111. 
 (1,025 miles), is noted for its large annual 
 shipments of grain. This port, which is 
 situated at the southern extremity of the 
 Great American Bottom, which extends 
 north to beyond St. Louis, is also the 
 shipping-point for Jonesboro (described 
 in Route I. of Illinois). 
 
 ©evil's Tea-TaMe and Cor- 
 nice IS ©elks (1,026 miles) are the 
 names given to some portions of the 
 bluffs where the water has worn the 
 rocks into regular shapes, representing 
 continuous rows of cornice-work, and 
 other curious architectural devices. 
 
 Ciranu Tower, 111. (1,039 
 miles), is a large, massive rock, rising 
 nearly 50 feet from the river. It is cir- 
 cular in form, and the river, which is 
 very rapid, rushes around its base with 
 tremendous force. At this point there 
 are gigantic ranges of rocks rising to a 
 great height on both sides of the river ; 
 the " Tower " being a portion which has 
 been detached by the action of the cur- 
 rent. Before the introduction of steam- 
 ers, this place was dreaded by boatmen 
 more than any other on the river, as the 
 only way in which they could ascend 
 with their boats was to tow them with 
 ropes from the Illinois shore. While thus 
 engaged, the crews were often attacked 
 
CnESTKR.] 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO TIIE GATES, TOUR III. [Missouri River 
 
 by the Indians, who would lie in wait for 
 them, murder them, and capture the 
 boats, and the often-valuable cargoes. 
 Opposite the "Tower," on the Illinois 
 shore, is a village of the same name, 
 which is the western terminus of the 
 Mount Carbon Branch of the Illinois 
 Central Railway, connecting with the 
 main line at Oarbondale. 
 
 Oaesfier, III. (1,073 miles), the 
 capital of Randolph County, is a thriving 
 village, situated about one mile below 
 the mouth of the Kaskaskia River, a large 
 navigable stream. 
 
 Stiaslssislsla, 111. (1,088 miles), 
 is handsomely situated on the west bank 
 of the river of the same name, seven 
 miles from its mouth, and some two 
 miles east of the Mississippi River. It 
 is the oldest town in Illinois, and perhaps 
 in the West, it having been settled by 
 the French in 1673. It was the capital 
 of the Territory from the time of the or- 
 ganization of the latter, to 1818. 
 
 &t. <xcmcTievc, Mo. (1,089 
 miles), capital of the county of the same 
 name, expo-ts large quantities of copper, 
 lead, limestone, and white sand, the latter 
 being used in the manufacture of glass 
 at Pittsburg. It is an old town, having 
 been settled by the French in 1755. 
 
 McrcBil=aBseMiBi, Mo. (1,116 
 miles), was formerly the capital of Jeffer- 
 son County, and a great market for the 
 lead procured from the mines in the vi- 
 cinity. In 1844 it was almost entirely 
 destroyed by a flood. 
 
 St. JLowis, Mo. (1,149 miles). 
 (See page 46.) 
 
 TOUM III. 
 
 ST. LOUIS- TO THE "GATES OF THE 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAINS? 
 
 Via Missouri River. 
 
 LANDINGS. MILES. 
 
 St. Louis, Mo 
 
 Mouth Missouri Eiver 20 20 
 
 St. Charles, Mq 25 45 
 
 Washington, Mo 89 84 
 
 Hermann, Mo 36 120 
 
 Gasconade Eiver, Mo 6 126 
 
 Formosa, Mo. ) OQ 1( . r 
 
 Osage Eiver f ° y lbd 
 
 Jefferson City, Mo 9 1T4 
 
 Providence, Mo 30 204 
 
 Bocheport, Mo 13 217 
 
 Old Franklin, Mo. i -,„ oon 
 
 Booneville, Mo. j" 1 " ia 
 
 LANDINGS. i 
 
 La Mine Eiver, Mo 6 
 
 Arrow Eock, Mo 6 
 
 Glasgow, Mo 16 
 
 Chariton Eiver, Mo 8 
 
 Old Jefferson, Mo 7 
 
 Brunswick, Mo 25 
 
 Grand Eiver, Mo 2 
 
 Waverley, Mo 52 
 
 Lexington, Mo 20 
 
 Sibley, Mo 36 
 
 Liberty Landing, Mo 29 
 
 Wayne Citv, Mo 6 
 
 Baridolph, Mo 7 
 
 Kansas, Mo. ) 
 
 Kansas Eiver V 7 
 
 Wyandotte, Kan. J 
 
 Parkville, Mo 15 
 
 Little Platte Eiver, Io 2 
 
 Leavenworth, Kan 22 
 
 Weston, Mo 8 
 
 Kickapoo City, Kan 10 
 
 Atchison, Kan 17 
 
 St. Joseph. Mo 35 
 
 Nodeway City, Mo 19 
 
 Iowa Point, Mo 1-5 
 
 White Cloud, Kan 10 
 
 Brownville, Neb 53 
 
 Nebraska City, Neb 30 
 
 Eock Bluff, Neb 35 
 
 Bethlehem, Iowa 5 
 
 Plattsmouth, Neb 1 
 
 Platte Eiver, Neb. | „ 
 
 California City, Iowa j 
 
 Bellevue, Neb 15 
 
 Council Bluffs, Iowa I 1 - 
 
 Omaha, Neb. j 1o 
 
 Florence, Neb 10 
 
 Fort Calhoun, Neb 10 
 
 Be Soto, Neb, 15 
 
 Tekama, Neb 80 
 
 Sioux City, Iowa 60 
 
 Fort Vermilion, D. T 79 
 
 FortEandall, D. T 56 
 
 Fort Lookout, D. T 100 
 
 Fort Pierre 150 
 
 Yellowstone Eiver 570 
 
 Fort Union 235 
 
 Fort Benton 400 
 
 Great Falls 40 
 
 Gates of the Eocky Mountains 110 
 
 Source of the Missouri 441 
 
 THE MISSOURI RIVER. 
 
 The restless, turbid waters of the 
 Missouri River flow fretfully, 3,099 miles 
 from their sources in the remote West, 
 to their union with the Mississippi. The 
 entire length of the river, including its 
 course to the Gulf of Mexico by the Mis- 
 sissipi (1,272 miles more), is 4,371 miles. 
 The head-waters of the Missouri are very 
 near the springs which find their way to 
 the Pacific through the channels of the 
 Columbia River. Their course is north- 
 ward for 600 miles, until they reach the 
 remarkable cataracts known as the Great 
 Falls. Before their arrival there, how- 
 173 
 
 235 
 241 
 257 
 260 
 
 207 
 292 
 294 
 346 
 372 
 408 
 437 
 443 
 450 
 
 457 
 
 472 
 474 
 496 
 504 
 514 
 531 
 566 
 51)1 
 606 
 616 
 669 
 719 
 754 
 759 
 700 
 
 703 
 
 778 
 
 793 
 
 803 
 
 813 
 
 828 
 
 858 
 
 918 
 
 997 
 
 1,053 
 
 1,153 
 
 1,303 
 
 1,873 
 
 2,108 
 
 2.508 
 
 2.548 
 
 2,658 
 
 3,099 
 
Missouri River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Missouri River. 
 
 ever, and at a distance of 411 miles from 
 their source, the waters make the passage 
 of the bold chasms called the "Gates of 
 the Rocky Mountains." " Here, through 
 a length of six miles, the giant rocks rise 
 perpendicularly to an elevation of 1,200 
 feet. The dark waters, in their narrow 
 bed, wash the base of these huge walls 
 so closely, that not a foothold is any- 
 where to be found. It is a ghostly gorge 
 on the sunniest day, but, when its habit- 
 ual gloom is deepened by the shadow of 
 a stormy sky, its solitude grows painfully 
 impressive. Let a thunder-peal rever- 
 berate, as often happens, in a thousand 
 wailing voices through the rocky wind- 
 ings of this glen, and let the blackness 
 of darkness be increased by the vanished 
 gleams of the lightning-flash, and you 
 think you have left this fair world far 
 behind you." 
 
 The Great Falls of the Missouri are 
 situated 2,548 miles from its mouth, and 
 40 miles above Fort Benton. The de- 
 scent of the swift river, at this point, is 
 357 feet in 13^ miles. The falls embrace 
 four cascades, the first of which is 26 
 feet, the next 27 feet, a third of 19 feet, 
 and a fourth, and lowest, of 87 feet. Be- 
 tween and below these cataracts there 
 are stretches of angry rapids. This pas- 
 sage is one of extreme beauty and gran- 
 deur, and at some day, not very distant, 
 perhaps, when these Western wilds shall 
 be covered with cities, and towns, and 
 peaceful hamlets, this spot will be one of 
 no less eager pilgrimage than many far 
 less imposing scenes are now. The falls 
 of the Missouri are esteemed, by the few 
 tourists whose good fortune it has been 
 to look upon these wonders, as holding 
 rank scarcely below the cataracts of 
 Niagara. The best, and, indeed, the only 
 travelled approach is by boat from St. 
 Louis, or Omaha, during the "spring 
 rise " in the Missouri, to Fort Benton, 
 2,508 miles, and thence 25 miles by land. 
 Fort Union, 400 miles below Fort Benton, 
 is the head of steamboat navigation dur- 
 ing the summer months. 
 
 The upper waters of the Missouri flow 
 through a wild, sterile country, and below 
 pass vast prairie stretches. Above the 
 River Platte the open and prairie char- 
 acter of the country begins to develop, ex- 
 tending quite to the banks of the river ' 
 174 
 
 and stretching from it indefinitely in 
 naked grass plains, where the traveller 
 may wander for days without seeing cither 
 wood or water. Beyond Council Bluffs, 
 commences a country of great interest 
 and grandeur, denominated the Upper 
 Missouri. It is composed of vast and 
 almost boundless grass plains, through 
 which run the Platte, the Yellowstone, 
 and the other rivers of this ocean of 
 grass. Buffalo, elk, antelope, and moun- 
 tain-sheep, abound. Lewis and Clark, 
 and other travellers, relate having seen 
 here large and singular petrifactions, 
 both animal and vegetable. On the top 
 of a hill they found a petrified skeleton 
 of a huge fish, forty-five feet in length. 
 
 The peculiar nature of the soil through 
 which the Missouri runs, and the fearful 
 power of its swift current, render prop- 
 erty upon its banks very uncertain and 
 undesirable ; acres of land are carried 
 away at a time, and houses, barns, trees, 
 fences and crops, disappear in the seeth- 
 ing flood ; whole towns have been washed 
 away, and the inhabitants forced to seek 
 other and safer homes. 
 
 Navigation is very dangerous on ac- 
 count of the swift current, the countless 
 islands and sand-bars, and the murderous 
 " snags " and " sawyers." A " snag " is 
 a tree which, when washed away from 
 the bank, floats into the stream, and then 
 partially sinks ; the roots become fast- 
 ened in the bottom, and then the sharp 
 stems, rising nearly to and above the 
 surface of the water, are the fatal snags 
 that almost instantly sink any steamer 
 striking them. They always lie with 
 their sharp ends pointing down the 
 stream, and consequently are dangerous 
 principally to ascending steamers. When 
 a steamer is descending the stream, it 
 slides over them, instead of being im- 
 paled. They are then known as "sawyers," 
 if they project above the water — the 
 current giving them a waving motion. At 
 a low stage of water, navigation is almost 
 impossible, and it is said that an old 
 toper, travelling on a steamer, when ask- 
 ed why he drank nothing but whiskey, 
 said that he felt compelled to, as every 
 drop of water in the river was required 
 to float the boat ! The river begins to 
 rise in March, and continues till July, 
 when the summer floods of its remote 
 
Missouri River.] ST. LOUIS TO THE GATES, TOUR III. [Missouri River. 
 
 tributaries come in. During this period 
 there is sufficient depth of water for 
 steamers of almost any class ; but, during 
 the remainder of the year, it is hardly 
 navigable for any distance, for the small- 
 est vessels that float upon the Western 
 waters. 
 
 The " bottoms " of the Missouri differ 
 materially from those of the Upper Mis- 
 sissippi, being wider, and not as wet, and 
 having smaller, though taller and straight- 
 er trees. The bhifts, like those of the 
 other river, are of limestone, but are not 
 so steep, and seem more inclined to the 
 rounded, semicircular form. 
 
 The steamers upon this river are 
 similar to those described in the trip 
 down the Mississippi (see Lake and River 
 Tour, No. I.), and the manner of loading 
 and managing them is the same. " Wood- 
 ing-up " has not been described, and, as 
 it is a feature of river-life, a brief sketch 
 of the scene may not be out of place : 
 
 The negroes of the Missouri are hap- 
 py specimens of God's image done up in 
 ebony, and in many lighter colors, and 
 they have frequently a deserved repu- 
 tation as " deck-hands." It is surprising 
 how much hard work they will perform, 
 and yet retain their vivacity and spirits. 
 They take a lively personal interest in 
 the success of the boat on which they 
 are employed, and become as much a 
 part of the propelling machinery as the 
 engines. Their custom of singing at all 
 important landings, already spoken of, 
 has a pleasing and novel effect, and, if 
 stimulated by an appreciative audience, 
 they will roll forth a volume of vocal 
 sounds that, for harmony and pathos, far 
 surpasses the best performances of the 
 so-called " negro-minstrels." 
 
 At night, when the " old ark " is tied 
 up, they love a game of " old sledge," 
 with the accompaniment of a fiddle. On 
 such occasions, the violinist will toucli 
 off the " Arkansas Traveller," and then, 
 gradually sliding into a "Virginia break- 
 down," he will be accompanied by a 
 genuine darkey, keeping time on the 
 light fantastic heel-and-toe tap. It is an 
 exciting struggle between cat-gut and 
 human muscle. It affects not only the 
 performers, but the contagion spreads to 
 the spectators, who display their delight 
 by words of rough encouragement and 
 
 laughter, which echo along the otherwiso 
 silent shore. 
 
 " Wooding up," however, is the great 
 glory of the darkey deck-hand. On a first- 
 class steamer there may be sixty " hands " 
 engaged in this physical contest. The 
 passengers extend themselves along the 
 guards as spectators, and present a brill- 
 iant array. The scene is lighted up by a 
 "torch," not such a one as is seen in our 
 cities, but a huge iron bucket, or rather 
 cage, at the end of an iron rod, projecting 
 from the side of the steamer, and filled 
 with blazing wood and resin, and throw- 
 ing a ruddy glare over river, steamer, and 
 shore. The performance consists in pil- 
 ing on the boat a large quantity of wood, 
 in the shortest possible space of time. 
 The steam-boilers seem to sympathize at 
 the sight of the fuel, and occasionally 
 breathe forth immense sighs of admira- 
 tion — the pilot increasing the noise by 
 performing a solo on the alarm-whistle. 
 The mate of the boat, for want of some- 
 thing better to do, divides his time be- 
 tween such exclamations as " Oh, bring 
 them shavings along ! " " Don't go to sleep 
 at this frolic," and swearing such terrible 
 oaths, that even good men are puzzled to 
 decide whether he is really profane, or 
 simply ridiculous. Upon the shoulders of 
 each are piled innumerable sticks of wood, 
 which are thus carried from the land into 
 the capacious bowels of the steamer. The 
 "last loads" are shouldered — the final 
 effort to carry " the largest pile " is made. 
 On the Mississippi, where navigation is 
 easier, this scene is often varied by wood- 
 ing up while in motion. In this case, the 
 wood having been loaded on a flat-boat, 
 the moment the steamer reaches the wood- 
 yard, the wood-boat is made fast to her, 
 and the trip is resumed, the transfer going 
 on at the same time. When the next wood- 
 yard is reached, the empty boat is left to 
 be filled, and taken back on the return- 
 trip. In this way much valuable time is 
 saved. 
 
 Since the completion of the railways to 
 the leading places along the river, the 
 hey-day of the steamers is over. The con- 
 quering railway robs them of nearly all 
 passengers and much freight. Gone for- 
 ever the era of universal racing, with its 
 attendant excitements — its pet steamers, 
 high wagers, and fierce rivalry. 
 176 
 
St. CnARLES.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Randolph. 
 
 From St. Louis to the mouth of the 
 Missouri, and the " meeting of the waters " 
 at that point, the river has already been 
 described in the trip down the Upper Mis- 
 sissippi. We will commence our notes 
 upon the trip up the Missouri at 
 
 Stf. Omrles, Mo. (45 miles), the 
 capital of St. Charles County. It is a hand- 
 some and flourishing place, beautifully 
 situated on an elevation. The rocky bluffs 
 in the vicinity afford fine views of the ad- 
 jacent rivers. Quarries of limestone and 
 sandstone, and mines of stone-coal, have 
 been opened near the city. St. Charles 
 contains a college, a court-house, and sev- 
 eral churches. Population, about 5,000. 
 
 "WstsIaliEg'toBi, Mo. (84 miles), 
 ESermajui, Mo. (120 miles), CJas- 
 <?©sia«le, Mo. (126 miles), and «9c4- 
 ferson City, Mo. (17i miles), are 
 all stations on the line of the Pacific Rail- 
 wav of Missouri, and have been described 
 in Route XVII. (See page 87.) 
 
 IFoB-Esaosa, Mo. (165 miles), is a 
 small village at the mouth of the Osage 
 River, a stream some 500 miles long, for 
 200 of which it is navigable. 
 
 The country on both sides of the Mis- 
 souri is very beautiful between its mouth 
 and Jefferson City, especially that on the 
 left bank, which is finely cultivated. 
 
 IProvialcsiee, Mo. (204 miles), is 
 the landing place for Columbia. 
 
 CoImmiMu, Mo., the capital of 
 Boone County, will be found described un- 
 der the heading of Route I. of Missouri. 
 
 ESoclicportt, Mo. (217 miles), at 
 the mouth of Moniteau Creek, is on the 
 line of a railway now building from Co- 
 lumbia to Kansas City, to be called the 
 Boone Count;/ Railway. 
 
 ESooncvillc, Mo. (227 miles), a 
 flourishing town, capital of Cooper Coun- 
 ty, owes its prosperity and importance to 
 its advantages as a commercial point. It 
 is remarkably healthful, both town and 
 country having escaped the ravages of the 
 cholera during the epidemic of 1849-50. 
 It is situated on a bluff 100 feet above 
 high-water mark, and is surrounded by a 
 rich farming region. The grape is exten- 
 cultivated here. Iron, lead, stone- 
 coal, mar!;! , and hydraulic limestone, are 
 abundanl in the vicinity. The place was 
 lettled by Daniel Boone, the celebrated 
 pioneer of Kentucky. 
 176 
 
 E,si Mine Rives-, Mo.(235 miles), 
 a stream of remarkably clear water, is 
 navigable for 30 miles. 
 
 Arrow Itoelc, Mo. (241 miles), 
 occupies a fine position 150 feet above 
 the river. The Indians formerly used the 
 stone found here for arrow-heads ; hence 
 the name of the place. 
 
 CJlasg-ow, Mo. (257 miles), has a 
 large trade, being the principal shipping- 
 port for Howard County. It contains 
 several churches and a female seminary. 
 Population, about 1,500. 
 
 Cfcsirifon liiver, Mo. (260 
 miles), is 150 miles long, but is only navi- 
 gable for 30 miles. 
 
 €>a*l JETeilt'rson, Mo. (267 miles), 
 is a small village. A place of the same 
 name formerly stood opposite Glasgow, 
 but was swallowed up by the river. 
 
 J3$B°Biiiswicl£, Mo. (292 miles), an 
 enterprising town of about 3,500 inhabi- 
 tants, stands on a beautiful, level prairie. 
 The principal buildings are of brick. 
 The North Missouri Railway connects 
 here. 
 
 flwrsiMcS ISiver, Mo. (294 miles), 
 is a stream 240 miles in length, for 100 of 
 which it is navigable. It is the boundary 
 between Carroll and Chariton Counties. 
 
 Waverly, Mo. (346 miles), is an 
 active village, laid out in 1843. It has a 
 population of about 2,000. 
 
 JLexingtOEa, Mo. (372 miles), the 
 capital of Lafayette County, delightfully 
 situated 300 feet above high-water mark, 
 is one of the oldest and was formerly one 
 of the most prosperous places in the State. 
 It is connected with the Missouri Pacific 
 Railway by a branch of that road which 
 forms a portion of a railway now building', 
 to cross the State from St. Joseph to the 
 southeast. The probable effect of the 
 completion of this road will be to give 
 the place a fresh impetus. 
 
 JSifoley, Mo. (408 miles), is a village 
 containing the former site of Fort Osage. 
 
 ILI!»eirty I-amling-, Mo. (437 
 miles), is a landing-place for Liberty, a 
 station on the North Missouri Railway, 
 four miles distant. 
 
 Wsiymo City, Mo. (443 miles), is 
 the landing-place for Independence, with 
 which it is connected by a railroad four 
 miles long. 
 
 Kiiudolpli, Mo. (450 miles), is a 
 
Kansas City.] ST. LOUIS TO TIIE GATES, TOUR III. 
 
 [Atchison. 
 
 pretty village handsomely situated upon 
 a commanding eminence. 
 
 Kansas City, Mo., and Wy» 
 an<lo<te, Kas. (457 miles), arc de- 
 scribed in Route XVII. (See page 89.) 
 
 Kansas River (457 miles) is one 
 of the largest affluents of the Missouri. 
 It is about 1,200 miles long, and in time 
 of high water is navigable for some 900 
 miles. In low stages of water it is full 
 of sand-bars and shoals. 
 
 l B aclivillc, Mo. (472 miles) is a 
 shipping-point of some importance. Pop- 
 ulation about 1,000. 
 
 Spittle PHatte Iflvea*, lo. (474 
 miles), is about 200 miles long, but is ex- 
 ceedingly shallow and difficult to navigate. 
 
 LcavcMWorife, Kas. (496 
 miles), the largest and most flourishing 
 city in the State, is beautifully situated 
 on the west bank of the river. It occu- 
 pies ji highly-advantageous geographical 
 position, and is surrounded by one of the 
 richest agricultural regions in the valley 
 of the Missouri. The river flows here 
 with a swift, deep current, and is bor- 
 dered on the Kansas side by a natural 
 levee of rock, affording excellent land- 
 ings. The city is laid out in rectangular 
 blocks, with streets extending north and 
 south, and east and west. The principal 
 streets are macadamized and lighted with 
 gas. In 1853 there was not a roof, a 
 shanty, nor a single human being, in Leav- 
 enworth. Thick hazel-brush covered its 
 site, and the wolves roamed unmolested. 
 Now it has 20,665 inhabitants, 27 elegant 
 schools and academies, nearly 30 church- 
 es, 200 saloons, two theatres, seven public 
 halls, and two jails ; hotels, founderies, 
 saw-mills, machine-shops, and factories, 
 are everywhere to be seen, and stores, 
 rivalling some of the best in the East, are 
 daily crowded with eager purchasers. 
 The educational facilities are admirable, 
 and the local press is enterprising, being 
 represented by gentlemen of unusual in- 
 telligence and ability. Leavenworth is the 
 headquarters for outfitting Government 
 supply-trains for Western forts, and also 
 of an immense trade with the Territories. 
 It is well worth while for the tourist to 
 walk to the fort and government farm. 
 The latter is one of the largest and most 
 productive in the country. 
 
 The importance of Leavenworth as a 
 
 commercial centre is due in a great meas- 
 ure to its direct railway connections with 
 all parts of the country. Extensive ar- 
 rangements are now being made for the 
 construction of new roads. 
 
 The Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council 
 Blvffs Railway connects here. An iron 
 railway-bridge has been built across the 
 Missouri at this point. 
 
 Fort Leavenworth, situated on a bluff 
 150 feet high, two miles from Leaven- 
 worth City, was established in 1827, 
 and until the building of the Pacific 
 Railway was the grand depot of sup- 
 plies for all the Western posts. The 
 Government reservation, which extends 
 for six miles along the river and one 
 back, affords good landings for steam- 
 boats. The Government buildings, con- 
 sisting of barracks for the troops, a hos- 
 pital, store-houses, officers' quarters, sta- 
 bles, barns, etc., etc., are large and well 
 built. The parade-ground is remarkably 
 handsome. Connected with the fort is 
 stabling for 8,000 horses and 1 5,000 mules. 
 
 Weston, Mo. (504 miles), a very 
 flourishing place, containing several 
 churches, printing offices, etc., is a sta- 
 tion on the Kansas City, St. Joseph ib 
 Council Bluffs Railway. 
 
 Kickapoo C!ity, Kas. (514 
 miles), receives its name from the Kick- 
 apoo Indians, who formerly dwelt in this 
 part of Kansas. It is the place where 
 the convention met which made the ar- 
 rangements for the election of a delegate 
 to Washington to urge upon Congress the 
 organization of the Territories of Kansas 
 and Nebraska, September 20, 1853. 
 
 Ateliison, Kas. (531 miles), is 
 picturesquely situated on the west bank 
 of the Missouri. It was first settled by 
 the famous Buford Company of South 
 Carolinians, who, under Stringfcllow, 
 made it their headquarters. Subsequent- 
 ly Pomeroy, the agent of the New-Eng- 
 land Emigrant Aid Company, obtained 
 possession of the place by strategy, buy. 
 ing up its newspaper, and throwing a 
 force of free-State men into the town 
 during the night. The troubles were 
 finally settled by Pomeroy and Stringfel- 
 low uniting their resources, and buying up 
 the place on speculation, and, as it has 
 developed wonderfully since then, they 
 have both grown immenselv rich.. Tho 
 177 
 
St. Joseph.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [For.T Benton. 
 
 former is now United States Senator from 
 Kansas, and when not in Washington re- 
 sides in Atchison, and the latter also 
 lives here in affluence. 
 
 Atchison is situated at the extreme 
 point of the " Great Western Bend" of 
 the Missouri River, and is therefore the 
 most interior city in Kansas on the river. 
 
 There are numerous churches in the 
 place. The educational facilities are good, 
 and the school-houses substantial and 
 elegant. The new central school-build- 
 ing is the largest and handsomest in the 
 State. Atchison has many advantages, 
 naturally and locally, as a great manufac- 
 turing centre. It has flouring-mills, plan- 
 ing-mills, a large furniture-manufactory, 
 three banks, and several good hotels. 
 It is the great railway centre of the 
 State, or will be when the other road3 
 now building are completed. It is the 
 terminus of the Central Branch of the 
 Union Pacific, and also the terminus of the 
 Missouri Pacific Railway. It is connected 
 with the Hannibal & St. Joseph Railway 
 by the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council 
 Bluffs Railway, and is to be the terminus 
 of the Atchison d; Nebraska Railway, now 
 building. 
 
 St. olosepla, Mo. (566 miles), 
 has been described in Route XVI. {See 
 page 86.) 
 
 N © dl a w a, y City, Mo. (591 
 miles), is a small village, and the landing- 
 place for Savannah. 
 
 ISrownville, Neb. (669 miles), 
 the capital of Nemaha County, was incor- 
 porated as a city in 1864. It stands on 
 an elevation of from 30 to 40 feet above 
 the water, and is enclosed on all sides, 
 except the east, by bluffs. 
 
 Nebraska "City, Neb. (719 
 miles), the capital of Otoe County, has 
 an extensive trade. There are valuable 
 salt-springs in the vicinity. 
 
 l£oc!t BSlufT, Neb. (754 miles), 
 is situated in a valley about one mile 
 from the river. On two sides it is 
 bounded by steep hills. 
 
 Plattsmout b, Neb. (760 miles), 
 the capital of Cass County, is beautifully 
 situated on a high bank, in the neighbor- 
 hood of fine timber and coal. 
 
 Platte lliver, Neb. (763 miles), 
 is over 2,000 miles long, and in its course 
 waters the great valley of that name, 
 178 
 
 through which the Union Pacific Railway 
 extends, and of which a description is 
 given in Route XVIII. (Seepage 87.) At 
 its junction with the Missouri, it presents 
 the appearance of a large navigable 
 stream, but its shallows and sand-bars 
 prevent any boat navigating its waters. 
 
 BScllevcie, Neb. (778 miles), is a 
 place which is intimately connected with 
 the early history of the West. Lewis and 
 Clark landed here in 1804, and soon af- 
 terward the American Fur Company es- 
 tablished a trading-post at this point. 
 Passing up the river, the tourist will ob- 
 serve the old building still standing on 
 the river-bank where once congregated 
 thousands of warlike red-skins, and on the 
 bluif above are the graves of many of 
 their chiefs, whose spirits their descend- 
 ants believe still watch over this their 
 favorite resort. 
 
 Council ISlafis, lo. (793 miles), 
 has been described in Route XII. (See 
 page 71.) 
 
 <J>amaba, Neb.(793 miles), has been 
 described in Route XVIII. (Sec page 95.) 
 
 Florence, Neb. (803 miles), a 
 small village, was first settled in 1847. 
 
 PSiosix City, Eo. (918 miles), 
 the capital of Woodbury County, is the 
 largest town above Omaha, and bids fair 
 to become a great city. It is the termi- 
 nus of the Sioux City & Pacific Railway, 
 and of the Iowa Division of the Illinois 
 Central Railway. The St. Paul cC* Sioux 
 City Railway will also terminate here, and 
 a road to Yankton is now building. 
 
 1 r anlctoia, 1>. 'IT., the capital of 
 the Territory, will soon be connected with 
 civilization by a railway. 
 
 After passing Yankton, the traveller 
 finds a great tract of country on cither 
 side of the river, possessing the same 
 features of wide bottom-land on the one 
 side and bluffs on the other. Occasion- 
 ally a few Indians are seen, who wore 
 once a terror to voyageurs in Mackinaw 
 boats, which descended the stream every 
 spring laden with robes and furs. Herds 
 of buffalo, elk, and deer, are frequently 
 seen. The sameness of every day's voy- 
 aging is relieved by calls at the Govern- 
 ment posts of Fort Rice, Pierre Bcrthold, 
 and other forts, until we reach 
 
 Fort Ilciiton (2,508 miles), tho 
 head of navigation. 
 
STATES AND TERRITORIES.— LOCAL ROUTES. 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 Onio, the third State in the Union in 
 population and wealth, is bounded on the 
 north by Lake Erie and a part of Michi- 
 gan ; on the east by Pennsylvania; on 
 the southeast by West Virginia ; on the 
 south by Kentucky ; and on the west by 
 Indiana. The greatest length from north 
 to south is 200 miles, and the greatest 
 width from east to west is 195 miles, the 
 area being 39,964 square miles. There 
 Are no mountains in Ohio, but the land, 
 toward the centre of the State, is 1,000 
 feet above the sea. The first permanent 
 white settlement in the State was made 
 at Marietta, on the 7th of April, 1788, 
 and, in 1802, Ohio was organized as a 
 Territory. For many years the Indians 
 were very troublesome, but were finally 
 conquered in 1794, by General Anthony 
 Wayne. 
 
 The dividing line between the waters 
 flawing toward Lake Erie, and those run- 
 ning into the Ohio, is a ridge, extending 
 from east to west, and lying nearer to the 
 lake than to the river, thus giving great- 
 er length and volume to the streams run- 
 ning southward than to those to the 
 north. The State was originally well 
 timbered, but many of the forests have 
 been felled, to make way for bustling 
 towns and fields of grain. The bitu- 
 minous coal-fields of Pennsylvania and 
 Kentucky extend into Ohio, covering an 
 area of 11,900 square miles, and em- 
 bracing 20 counties. The coal-region 
 commences at the Ohio River, and ex- 
 tends nearly to Lake Erie, occupying the 
 belt of land between the Scioto and Jfus- 
 
 Icingum Rivers. Iron is abundant and of 
 a superior quality, and with each year in 
 developed more and more, adding con- 
 tinually to the wealth of the State, and 
 to its importance as the seat of large 
 manufactories. Salt-springs are numer- 
 ous, and marble, lime, and building-stone 
 abound. 
 
 At different points around Lake Erie, 
 persons, in sinking wells, have met with 
 inflammable gas, and this has happened 
 at several places in Ohio. Captain John 
 Spaulding, of Rockport, knowing this 
 fact, concluded that, by sinking a tube to 
 a sufficient depth, gas could be found 
 anywhere along the northern margin of 
 the State, and that, as at Erie, Pa., cities 
 might be lighted, and heat supplied for 
 all manufacturing purposes. He tried 
 the experiment at Cleveland, and com- 
 menced work there on the 30th of Janu- 
 ary, 1871. On the 6th of March, while 
 the men were drilling, they heard a roar- 
 ing noise and, a moment after, a stream 
 of water rose some 4 feet high above the 
 tubing : this was followed by gas, which, 
 when lighted, produced a constant white 
 flame, about 8 feet in height. The well, 
 at that time, was 560 feet deep, but it 
 will be sunk 100 feet deeper, with a view 
 to procuring a constant and unlimited 
 supply of gas, for illuminating and heat- 
 ing purposes. It is known that a bi- 
 tuminous shale, 350 feet thick, underlies 
 the soil from Huron, Ohio, to Buffalo, 
 New York, and, it is believed that, where- 
 cver it exists, gas can be found. 
 
 The climate is varied, the temperature 
 179 
 
Omo.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Little Miami. 
 
 being quite warm in the southern portion 
 of the State, while in the north it is simi- 
 lar to that in the same latitude on the 
 Atlantic coast. 
 
 The soil is generally rich and highly 
 cultivated, and the products varied and 
 abundant. Wool is one of the staples of 
 Ohio, and the quantity annually exported 
 is very large. Wine, too, is an impor- 
 tant article of export and home use, the 
 vineyards near Cincinnati, and those of 
 Put-in-Bay Islands, being noted for the 
 fine flavor and good quality of the wine 
 produced from the grapes. The forest- 
 trees of Ohio are of many kinds. Ever- 
 greens do not flourish in the State, but 
 hickory, oak, maple, buckeye, and other 
 trees, come to great perfection. 
 
 The State is divided into 88 counties. 
 Tlie jwpulalion in 1800 was 45,365, and 
 by the late census, 2,602,681. Columbus, 
 the State capital (see page 26), has a 
 population of 31,336 ; Cincinnati, the 
 largest city, the eighth in population in 
 the Union, has 218,900 inhabitants; 
 Cleveland has over 93,000 inhabitants, 
 and Toledo, Dayton, Zanesville, Hamilton, 
 and Sandusky, are large and populous 
 cities. The total valuation of real and 
 personal property in the State is given by 
 the census of 1870 as $1,512,438,886, 
 against §959,867,101 in I860. 
 
 Though very beautiful, the scenery 
 of Ohio is lacking in grandeur, the near- 
 est approach to it being the bold bluffs 
 of the Ohio River ; but there is much 
 that is picturesque and of interest to the 
 tourist : such as the Indian mound near 
 Marietta, the ruins of Eort Ancient, 
 Clark's Works in Ross County ; the sub- 
 terranean lake at Bryan, in Williams 
 County ; the falls of many of the rivers ; 
 the mineral springs at Delaware ; the 
 pyramidal rock at Lancaster ; the old 
 fortifications at Circleville ; the large 
 spring at Castalia ; and the Yellow Sul- 
 phur Springs (see page 41), with the 
 charming falls of the Miami near by. 
 
 The railways and canals by which 
 Ohio is traversed in every direction are 
 so numerous that every town of any size 
 in the State has a ready means of com- 
 munication with the rest of the world, 
 while the products of the soil, the mines, 
 and the manufactories, easily find their 
 way to market. 
 180 
 
 Ohio is rapidly becoming a great manu- 
 facturing State. In the year ending No- 
 vember 30, 1870, there were 107 manu- 
 facturing companies incorporated. Tho 
 following are the statistics of the iron 
 business during that year : Fig-iron manu- 
 factured, 211,074 tons. Of this, 74,221 
 tons were smelted with charcoal, and 
 136,853 tons with stone-coal. Bar and 
 nail iron, 27,585 tons ; nails 8,271 tons ; 
 hoop-iron, 498 tons ; sheet-iron, 648 
 tons; stoves, 8,631 tons; car-wheels, 
 3,507 tons; other castings, 10,711 tons; 
 spikes and railroad-chairs, 706 tons ; 
 railroad-iron, 9,167 tons. 
 
 EIVEES, ETC. 
 
 Ohio is well watered, but has few navi- 
 gable rivers. 
 
 TTlie Ohio River, forming most 
 of its eastern and all of its southern 
 boundary, has been fully described, with 
 all its landings of any importance. 
 
 Muskingum Kiver is formed 
 by the Tuscarawas and Walhanehmg Riv- 
 ers, which take their rise in the upper 
 part of the State and meet at Coshocton. 
 It is navigable by means of dams and 
 locks as far as Zanesville (70 miles), and 
 in high stages of the water as far as Cos- 
 hocton (100 miles). 
 
 Scioto River rises in Hardin 
 County, and, after running 200 miles, 
 empties into the Ohio at Portsmouth. It 
 receives the waters of the Olentangy, at 
 Columbus, and has, besides, many other 
 tributaries. 
 
 Blocking - River, which rises in 
 rairtield County, is 80 miles long, empty- 
 ing into the Ohio at Troy. It is navi- 
 gable for small boats as far as Athens. 
 The falls of the Hocking arc seven miles 
 above Lancaster, the river leaping a 
 ledge of rock 40 feet high. Above the 
 falls the shape of the river resembles a 
 bottle, hence its Indian name, " Ilock- 
 hocking." 
 
 ILilftlc Miami River, of great 
 value as a mill-stream, is noted for its 
 beauty. About 70 miles from its mouth 
 at Clifton, near Yellow Springs, in a 
 short distance it falls 200 feet, catting 
 for itself a deep and narrow path through 
 the solid limestone. These falls, together 
 with the springs, form the most attractive 
 resort in the State, excepting perhaps 
 
Great Miami.] 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 [Toledo 
 
 Put-in-Bay Islands. There are several 
 good hotels at the springs, the principal 
 being the Neff House, and there is a park 
 of 800 acres of beautiful woodland, 
 through which a clear stream tumbles in 
 a series of romantic cascades. The 
 " Cascade," " Cliffs," " Glen," " Lover's 
 Leap," and "Pompey's Pillar," are 
 among the most noted spots at the 
 Springs. The "Iron Spring " discharges 
 102 gallons a minute, and there are five 
 other chalybeate springs. The sulphur 
 well is 70 feet deep. 
 
 Grea4 Miami ISiver rises in 
 Hardin County, near the source of the 
 Scioto. Although not navigable, it is a 
 stream of great importance, running 
 through a rich country, and furnishing 
 an immense water-power. For some 
 distance it is the boundary between 
 Ohio and Indiana. 
 
 Ma.aiBH.ee Stiver, formed by the 
 junction of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's 
 Rivers at Fort Wayne, Indiana, crosses 
 the northwestern corner of Ohio, at 
 Toledo, 80 miles from its head. It is 
 navigable to Defiance, Ohio (60 miles), by 
 small boats, and in times of high water 
 by those of larger size. For 18 miles it 
 is navigable for lake-steamers. 
 
 The other rivers of Ohio, emptying 
 into Lake Erie, are only navigable at 
 their mouths. 
 
 It O JJTE I. 
 
 CINCINNATI TO TOLEDO. 
 
 Via Cincinnati, Hamilton <j& Dayton, Day- 
 tun <& Michigan, and Cincinnati, Rich- 
 mond <& Chicago Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — Cumminsville, 
 5 miles ; Marietta & Cincinnati Junction 
 (connects with Marietta and Cincinnati 
 Railway), 7 ; Carthage, 10 ; Lockland, 
 12; Gleudale, 15 ; Jones's, 19; Hamilton 
 (connects with Cincinnati, Richmond & 
 Chicago, and Cincinnati & Indianapolis 
 Junction Railways), 25 ; Busenbark's, 
 31; Trenton, 33; Middletown, 37; Poast 
 Town, 40 ; Carlisle, 44 ; Miamisburg, 49 ; 
 Carrolton, 52 ; Dayton (connects with 
 Cincinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland, At- 
 lantic & Great Western Division of Erie, 
 Dayton & Union, Dayton & Western, and 
 Little Miami Railways), 60 ; Tippecanoe, 
 
 74 ; Troy, 80 ; Piqua (connects with 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Rail- 
 way), 88 ; Sidney (connects with Cleve- 
 land, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapo- 
 lis Railway), 100 ; Anna, 106 ; Wapako- 
 neta, 119; Lima (connects with Pitts- 
 burg, Fort Wayne & Chicago Railway), 
 131; Columbus Grove, 144; Ottawa, 
 151; Leipsic, 158; Belmore, 162; Mil- 
 ton, 172; Weston, 176; Tontogeny, 182 ; 
 Perrysburg, 193 ; Toledo (connects with 
 Lake Shore & Michigan Southern and 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western Railways), 
 202. 
 
 This is an important road running 
 through a rich and beautiful country. 
 Most of the stations along the line have 
 already been described. 
 
 From Cincinnati to Dayton, for de- 
 scription see pages 30 and 31. 
 
 MaiBtiltOBB. (25 miles). (Sec page 
 31.) 
 
 Bayton (60 miles). (See page 30.) 
 Tippecanoe (74 miles) stands on 
 the west bank of the Great Miami River 
 and upon the Miami & Erie Canal. It 
 contains several churches and manufac- 
 tories, and is growing rapidly. 
 
 Troy (80 miles), the capital of 
 Miami County, is a pretty, well-built 
 village, on the west side of the Great 
 Miami River and upon the Miami Canal. 
 The river, which at this point is a beau- 
 tiful and rapid stream, furnishes a fine 
 water-power for several factories. 
 l»£«|»ia (88 miles.) (See page 28.) 
 Sidney (100 miles). (See page 58.) 
 Wapakoiieta, (119 miles), the 
 capital of Auglaize county, was for many 
 years the seat of a mission among the 
 Shawnee Indians, established by the So- 
 ciety of Friends. 
 
 SJiBBia (131 miles). (See page 24.) 
 Toledo (202 miles). (See page 19.) 
 The other stations are unimportant 
 villages. 
 
 MO U T E II. 
 
 CINCINNATI TO SANDUSKY. 
 
 Via Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton, and 
 Cincinnati, Sandusky <& Cleveland Rail- 
 ways. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — Dayton (con- 
 nects with all diverging roads), 60 miles ; 
 Osborn, 71 ; Springfield (connects with 
 181 
 
Springfield.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Washington. 
 
 Little Miami Railway and London 
 Branch), 85 ; Fremont, 91 ; Urbana 
 (connects with Columbus, Chicago & 
 Indiana Central Railway), 99 ; West Lib- 
 erty, 109 ; Bellefontaine (connects with 
 Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & In- 
 dianapolis Railway), 117; Huntsville, 
 121; Yelverton, 132; Kenton, 141 ; For- 
 est (connects with Pittsburg, Fort Wayne 
 & Chicago Railway), 153 ; Carey (Junc- 
 tion of Findlay Branch), 165 ; Adrian, 
 170 ; Tiffin, 181; Green Springs, 193; 
 Clyde (connects with Lake Shore & 
 Michigan Southern Railway), 198 ; Casta- 
 lia, 209 ; Sandusky (connects with San- 
 dusky, Mansfield & Newark Railway), 
 215. 
 
 This route passes through a rich and 
 thickly-populated region, and connects 
 with every railway crossing the State 
 from east to west, and consequently all 
 the principal stations have already been 
 described. For the first 60 miles the 
 route is identical with Route I. of Ohio. 
 
 Springfield (85 miles). (See page 
 30.) 
 
 Urhana (99 miles). (See page 28.) 
 
 West Hii»erty (109 miles) is sit- 
 uated on Mad River, which furnishes a 
 good water-power for the factories and 
 mills at this point. 
 
 ISellefbntaiae (117 miles). (Sec 
 page 58.) 
 
 f&cnton (141 miles), the capital of 
 Hardin County, on the Scioto River, is a 
 thriving place. 
 
 Forest (153 miles) is a village at 
 the crossing of the Pittsburg, Fort 
 Wayne & Chicago Railway. 
 
 Carey (165 miles). The Findlay 
 Branch diverges at this place. 
 
 l-'indlay (16 miles from Carey), the 
 capital of Hancock County, is pleasantly 
 situated on the left bank of BlanchanVs 
 Fork. It does a large trade with the 
 surrounding country, and possesses wells 
 of inflammable gas of sufficient quantity 
 to light the village. It is connected with 
 Fremont by a railroad which, when fin- 
 ished, will give direct communication 
 with Lima and Union. 
 
 Tiffin (181 miles), the capital of 
 Seneca County, on the east bank of the 
 Sandusky River, is a compactly and 
 handsomely-built town of some impor- 
 tance. 
 
 182 
 
 Clyde (198 miles) is a village at the 
 crossing of the Lake Shore cfr Michigan 
 Southern Railway. 
 
 Castalia (209 miles), a handsome 
 village on Cold Creek, is noted for the 
 fine springs in the neighborhood, one of 
 which, the source of the creek, has the 
 property of petrifaction. 
 
 Sandusky (215 miles), the capital 
 of Erie County, is situated on the bay of 
 the same name, which 20 miles long, 5 or 
 6 wide, and has an average depth of 12 
 feet. The city, which is built over an 
 inexhaustible bed of limestone admirably 
 suited for building-purposes, is hand- 
 some and commands a fine view of the 
 bay, the ground rising gradually from 
 the shore. Many of the churches and 
 other buildings are of stone^ are attrac- 
 tive, and even elegant. Sandusky has an 
 exteusive commerce and many manufac- 
 tures. The Lake Erie Division of the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway, formerly the 
 Sandusky, Mansfield & Newark Rail- 
 way, connects here, and connections 
 are also made with a branch of the Lake 
 Shore & Michigan Southern Railway, run- 
 ning along the lake from Cleveland to 
 Toledo. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 CIXCINFATI TO ZAXESYILL& 
 
 Via Cincinnati & Muskingum Taller/ Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — Morrow (junc- 
 tion of Little Miami Railway), 36 miles ; 
 Clarksville, 46 ; AVilmington, 56 ; Wash- 
 ington, 77 ; New Holland, 87 ; Circleville, 
 104 ; Amanda, 116 ; Lancaster (connects 
 with Hocking Valley Railway), 125 ; 
 New Lexington, 147 ; Zanesville (con- 
 nects with Central Ohio Division of Bal- 
 timore & Ohio Railway), 168. 
 
 This road as far as Morrow has been 
 described in Route VI. (See page 41.) 
 It is an important line, passing through a 
 rich and thickly-settled farming country. 
 
 Wilmington (56 miles), the cap- 
 ital of Clinton County, one of the pricipal 
 stations on the road, is situated on Toad's 
 Fork of the Little Miami River. It standa 
 on gently-rolling ground, and is well 
 built'. 
 
 Washington (77 miles), the cap- 
 
ClRCXEVILLE.] 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 [Pittsburg. 
 
 ital of Fayette County, is situated on 
 Pahd Creek, surrounded by a very pro- 
 ductive agricultural region. 
 
 Circlevillc (104 miles), the capital 
 of Pickaway County, is a prosperous 
 manufacturing town on the left bank of 
 Scioto Itivcr, upon the site of an old for- 
 tification of a circular form, from which 
 it derives its name. The Ohio Canal 
 crosses the river at this place by a hand- 
 some aqueduct. 
 
 Amanda (116 miles) is a pleasant 
 village. 
 
 Lancaster (125 miles), the cap- 
 ital of Fairfield County, is a pretty place, 
 sifciated in a charming valley. Near the 
 village a pyramidal sandstone rock 200 
 feet in height rises from the edge of a 
 plain. The Hocking Valley Railway con- 
 nects here, and the Hocking Canal affords 
 communication with the Ohio Canal. 
 
 New ILexington (147 miles), for- 
 merly called Somerset, the capital of 
 Perry County, is a thriving village. 
 
 JSanesviile (168 miles). (See page 
 TO.) 
 
 M O UTE I V, 
 
 CLEVELAND TO PLTTSBUEG, PA. 
 Via Cleveland & Pittshv.ro Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Cleveland — Newburg, 8 
 miles ; Macedonia, 20 ; Hudson (connects 
 with Mount Vernon & Delaware Rail- 
 way), 26 ; Earlville, 32 ; Ravenna (con- 
 nects with Atlantic & Great Western Di- 
 vision of the Erie Railway), 38 ; Alliance 
 (connects with Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne 
 & Chicago Railway), 57 ; Bayard (con- 
 nects with Tuscarawas Branch), 69 ; 
 Hanover, 75 ; Salineville, 87 ; Hammonds- 
 ville, 95 ; Yellow Creek (junction Main 
 & River Lines), 99 ; Wellsville, 102 ; 
 Liverpool, 106 ; Rochester (connects with 
 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago Rail- 
 way), 124 ; Pittsburg (connects with rail- 
 ways diverging), 150. 
 
 This road, connecting the Ohio River 
 with Lake Erie, does a large carrying- 
 business. 
 
 Cleveland. (See page 17.) 
 
 New Burg (8 miles), a rapidly-grow- 
 ing village, is the seat of a large State 
 Insane Asylum, situated in the midst of a 
 beautiful grove on the banks of a small 
 creek, which, in the centre of the village, 
 
 has a fall of about 60 feet over a ledga 
 of rocks, into a narrow ravine. Newburg 
 has extensive rolling-mills, and a good 
 hotel. It connects with the Mahoning 
 Division of the Erie Railway. 
 
 Hudson (26 miles), a pleasantly-sit- 
 uated and well-built village, the seat of 
 the Weston Reserve College, founded in 
 1826, connects with the Mount Vernon 
 & Delaware Railway. 
 
 ISavenna (38 miles). (See page 29.) 
 
 Alliance (57 miles). (See page 23.) 
 
 Bayard (69 miles) is at the junction 
 of the Tuscaraivas Branch for New Phil- 
 adelphia. 
 
 New IPIailadelpnia (S9 miles), 
 terminus of the Branch, and the capital 
 of Tuscarawas County, stands on a plain 
 on the left bank of the Tuscarawas River. 
 There is an abundance of coal and iron- 
 ore in the neighborhood, and in the town 
 are several founderies, manufactories, and 
 machine-shops. The Ohio Canal passes 
 near this place. 
 
 Yellow Creelc (99 miles) is the 
 point where the River Line diverges from 
 the Main Line. 
 
 Wellsville (102 miles) has been 
 described in Lake and River Tour, No. 
 II. (See page 165.) The road here runs 
 along the north bank of the Ohio River, 
 of which the traveller obtains a fine view 
 from the cars. 
 
 lEocliester, Pa. (124 miles), at 
 the mouth of Beaver River, is at the junc- 
 tion of the Cleveland & Pittsburg and 
 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne <£• Chicago Rail- 
 ways. 
 
 Piatsomrg, fa. (150 miles), is 
 fully described in Appletons' Hand-book 
 of American Travel, Northern and 
 Eastern Tour. Connections are here 
 made with all diverging railways. 
 
 MO UTE V. 
 
 CLEVELAND TO CINCINNATI. 
 
 Via Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati, & In- 
 dianapolis Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Cleveland — Galion ( cross- 
 ing of Atlantic & Great Western Division 
 of Erie Railway), 79 miles ; Cardington, 
 97 ; Delaware (junction of Springfield 
 Branch), 114; Columbus (connects with 
 railways diverging), 138 ; Cincinnati, 258. 
 183 
 
Cleveland.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Atiiens. 
 
 The above list of stations includes only 
 the termini, and those between Columbus 
 and Gabon. All the rest of the route is 
 described in another part of the book. 
 
 From Cleveland to Gabon. (See page 
 58.) 
 
 From Columbus to Cincinnati. (Sec 
 page 40.) 
 
 Cleveland. (See page 17.) 
 
 Gallon. (See page 30.) 
 
 Ciirdiugton (97 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing village on the eastern branch of the 
 Olentangy River. 
 
 Delaware (114 miles), the capital 
 of Delaware County, is built upon rolling 
 ground on the right bank of the Olen- 
 tangy River, which is here crossed by a 
 bridge. In 1845 the Ohio Weslcyan Uni- 
 versity was founded in this place, and 
 subsequently the Ohio Wesleycm Female 
 College. There is in Delaware a mineral 
 medicinal spring of some reputation. 
 The Springfield Branch diverges here. 
 
 i'uluEiibsifi (138 miles). (Sec page 
 26.) 
 
 Cincinnati (258 miles). (See page 
 31.) 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 SANDUSKY TO NEWARK. 
 
 Via Lake Erie Division of Baltimore & Ohio 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Sandusky — Prout's ( con- 
 nects with Huron Branch), 8 miles ; Mon- 
 roeville (connects with Lake Shore & 
 Michigan Southern Railway), 15 ; Centre- 
 ton, 27 ; Shelby Junction (connects with 
 Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indi- 
 anapolis Railway), 42 ; Mansfield (con- 
 nects with Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & 
 Chicago Railway), 54 ; Belleville, 68 ; An- 
 kenytown, 79 ; Mount Vernon, 91 ; Louis- 
 ville, 107 ; Newark (connects with Cen- 
 tral Ohio Division, and with Pittsburg, 
 Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway), 116. 
 
 This road was formerly known as the 
 Sandusky, Mansfield & Newark Railway, 
 but now forms a part of the Baltimore & 
 Ohio Railway, and is the last link in the 
 unbroken line of railway from Lake Erie 
 to the Chesapeake. It crosses the Ohio 
 by a splendid bridge at Parkcrsburg. 
 
 Sandusky. (Sec page 182.) 
 
 I'roul's (8 miles). A branch to 
 Huron diverges here. 
 184 
 
 Monroeville (15 miles), on tlw 
 Huron. River, is a flourishing and rapidly- 
 growing town at the crossing of Ihe Lake 
 Shore <t Michigan Southern Railway. 
 
 Shell>y Junction (42 miles) is 
 the crossing of the Cleveland, Columbus, 
 Cincinnati &• Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 Mansfield (54 miles). (Sec page 
 24.) 
 
 ISelleville (68 miles) is a small 
 village on a fork of the Mohiccan River. 
 
 Mount Vernon (91 miles), the 
 capital of Knox County, is situated on 
 ground gently rising from the banks of 
 Vernon River. It is closely built up, and 
 is a very prosperous little place. The 
 surrounding country is populous and well 
 cultivated. The river affords good water- 
 power. 
 
 Newark (116 miles). (Seepage 26.) 
 
 MOUTE VI. 
 
 COLUMBUS TO ATHENS. 
 Via Columbus db Hocking Valley Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Columbus — Winchester, 1 6 
 miles ; Lancaster (connects with Cincin- 
 nati & Muskingum Valley Railway), 32 ; 
 Logan, 49 ; Hadenville, 56 ; Nelsonville, 
 62; Athens (connects with Marietta & 
 Cincinnati Railway), 76. 
 
 This railway was opened in August, 
 1870, and, although only 76 miles in 
 length, is regarded as one of the most 
 important in the State, it passing through 
 the rich coal and iron deposits of Hock- 
 ing County. 
 
 Columbus. (Sec page 26.) 
 
 ILancastcr (32 miles). (See page 
 183.) 
 
 ILogran (49 miles), the capital of 
 nocking County, is pleasantly situated 
 on the Hocking River, a mile below the 
 Hocking Halls. The Hocking Canal passes 
 through the village, which it is thought 
 will now grow rapidly with the impetus 
 which the opening of the railway has 
 given it. The iron-mines in the neighbor- 
 hood are of great value. 
 
 Nelsonville (62 miles) is a grow- 
 ing village on the Hocking River. 
 
 Athens (76 miles) the terminus of 
 the road, is described in Route XI. (Sec 
 page 71.) 
 
Indiana.] 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 [Indiana. 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Indiana, the sixth State in the Union 
 in population, is bounded on the north 
 by Lake Michigan, and the State of 
 Michigan ; on the east by Ohio, on the 
 Bouth by the Ohio River, and on the west 
 by Illinois. The greatest length from 
 north to south is 278 miles, and its width 
 from east to west 144 miles, the area be- 
 ing 33,809 square miles. There are no 
 mountains in the State, though in some 
 portions of the southern and southwest- 
 ern counties it is rough and hilly. A 
 large tract of country in the southwest is 
 underlaid by a cavernous limestone. 
 
 The first settlements were made by the 
 French early in the eighteenth century, 
 but it was not until after the Revolution, 
 when the American element became in- 
 fused into the community, that the popu- 
 lation increased to any considerable ex- 
 tent. In common with other parts of the 
 West, Indiana suffered greatly by the 
 Indians, but in 1811 the savages were 
 utterly crushed, General Harrison routing 
 them at the battle of Tippecanoe, fought 
 near the present city of Indianapolis. In 
 1800 Indiana and Illinois were organized 
 as a Territory, and in 1816 the former 
 separated itself, and was admitted into 
 the Union. As in Ohio, the dividing 
 ridge between the waters flowing to the 
 north and those flowing southward is 
 much nearer to the northern boundary 
 than to the Ohio River, and the important 
 rivers of the State, with but one excep- 
 tion, empty into the Ohio. In the western 
 portion of the State there is a vast extent 
 of prairie, but the eastern and northern 
 sections are still heavily timbered, except 
 where the axe of the settler has been at 
 work. 
 
 Minerals. — The bituminous coal-fields 
 are very rich, extending, as far as is now 
 known, through 22 counties, and em- 
 bracing an area of 7,700 square miles. 
 This coal is abundant in the southwestern 
 portion of the State, it being estimated 
 that the average quantity is 50,000,000 
 bushels to the square mile. Other 
 minerals, such as iron and zinc, are found, 
 and gypsum, marble, and good building- 
 
 stone, both sand and limestone, are also 
 met with. 
 
 Tlie climate is similar to that of Ohio. 
 In the river-bottoms the soil is a rich 
 loam of great fertility ; on the uplands it 
 is not so good. Large tracts of land re- 
 main unimproved, but there is little of it 
 which will not well repay the pains of 
 cultivation. 
 
 Fruit is abundant in nearly all parts of 
 the State, and the culture of apples, 
 peaches, pears, and other fruits, forms 
 an important branch of the industry of 
 the people. 
 
 Indiana is divided into 92 counties. 
 The population by the late census was 
 1,642,451. Indianapolis, the capital and 
 principal city (see page 43), has a popula- 
 tion of 40,936. The three cities next in 
 population are Fort Wayne, 17,156 ; New 
 Albany, 16,205 ; and Terre Haute, 16,201. 
 The people of the State are mostly 
 farmers, and so, while Indiana has many 
 small villages, it has but few cities. The 
 real estate and personal property in the 
 State are given by the census of 1870 as 
 $663,455,044, against $411,042,424 in 
 1860. 
 
 The absence of mountain-ranges, pic- 
 turesque lakes, and fine scenery, renders 
 the country in many respects unattrac- 
 tive to the tourist, but visits to the coal 
 and iron regions are not without interest. 
 There is one great natural curiosity in 
 Indiana, however, which in itself would 
 repay one the trouble of travelling many 
 miles to see. This is the Wyandotte Cave in 
 Crawford County, on the Blue River, five 
 miles from Leavenworth. It is reached 
 by steamer on the Ohio River. (See page 
 170.) The scenery of Lost River, near 
 Salem, and the Falls of Eel Fiver, near 
 Spencer, are very beautiful, and should be 
 visited. 
 
 The policy of this State in reference to 
 canals and railways has been liberal and 
 far-sighted, the result being that 453 
 miles of canal are in successful operation, 
 and that, besides the eight grand trunk 
 lines of railway which cross the State, 
 there are so many local roads that scarce- 
 185 
 
Onio River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 ly a village in the State is not either on 
 or near some railroad. The work of 
 building roads continues to be prosecuted 
 with so much activity that the descrip- 
 tion of the State which may be written 
 for one year will be very incomplete for 
 the next. 
 
 The educational system of the State is 
 excellent, and the correctional, reforma- 
 tory, and charitable institutions, are 
 numerous and well-conducted. 
 
 Indiana is well watered by numerous 
 small streams, which, when utilized, will 
 afford great water-power for manufactur- 
 ing purposes, but as yet there is but little 
 done in this respect, in proportion to the 
 population. The rivers of the State are 
 only navigable to a limited extent. 
 
 r irfiae ©Saio I£lvor, forming the 
 southern boundary of Indiana, together 
 with every place upon its banks of any 
 importance, has been described in Lake 
 and River Tour, No. II. (See page 164.) 
 
 'JTIae ^ValmslB, the principal river, 
 rises in Huntington Count)', Ohio, and 
 crosses Indiana to the boundary-line of 
 Illinois, where it turns to the south, and 
 for more than 100 miles forms the divid- 
 ing line between the two States, finally 
 emptying into the Ohio, of which it is the 
 largest tributary from the north. Its 
 total length is 500 miles. In time of high 
 water it is navigable as far as Covington, 
 300 miles from its mouth ; in low stages 
 of water, navigation ceases just above the 
 mouth of White River. From Huntington 
 to Terre Haute, 180 miles, the Wabash 
 & Erie Canal follows the river. 
 
 "WB*ite River is formed by two 
 branches, the East and the West Fork, 
 which, after the union in Daviess County, 
 run some 40 or 50 miles in a southwesterly 
 direction, and empty into the Wabash. 
 The West Fork, which is the longer of 
 the two, is navigable, in times of high 
 water, to Martinsville, 200 miles from the 
 Wabash. It rises in Randolph County, 
 near the eastern boundary of the State. 
 The East Fork, about 250 miles long, 
 commonly called Blue River, until passing 
 Sur/ar Creek, near Edinborough, rises 
 in Henry County. For the greater part 
 of the year it is navigable for llat-boats 
 as far as Rockford. 
 180 
 
 Tlie Maisijace Kivea* is formed 
 by the junction of the *SV. Joseph's and St. 
 Mary's Rivers, at Fort Wayne, and emp- 
 ties into Lake Erie at Toledo. It is con- 
 sidered a river of Ohio, but is the only 
 one of any size which runs from Indiana 
 into either of the northern lakes. 
 
 SSlaac Silver. There are three 
 streams of this name in Indiana. One 
 has just been mentioned under the head- 
 ing of White River ; another is a tribu- 
 tary of E<i River, and the third empties 
 into the Ohio at Leavenworth. 
 
 XJ«e Tippecanoe rises in Tippe- 
 canoe Lake, in Kosciusko County, and 
 empties into the Wabash, near Lafayette. 
 It is 200 miles long, is very crooked, and 
 for over 100 miles from its mouth is 00 
 feet wide and 3 feet deep, the- entire year. 
 The Jfississincwa, Whitewater, Flat Roek, 
 and Kankakee, arc also rivers of Indiana. 
 
 KOUTE I. 
 
 CINCINNATI, OHIO, TO CHICAGO, 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Via Cincinnati, Hamilton <& Dayton and 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati, Hamilton <b 
 Dayton Railway. — Cincinnati — Cummins- 
 ville, 5 miles ; Marietta & Cincinnati 
 Junction (connects with Marietta & Cin- 
 cinnati Railwav), 7 ; Carthage, 10 ; Lock- 
 land, 12 ; Glendale, 15 ; Jones, 19 ; Hamil- 
 ton (connects with Cincinnati, Richmond 
 & Chicago and Cincinnati &; Indianapolis 
 Junction Railways), 25 ; Collinsville, 30 ; 
 Somerville, 39 ; Camden, 44 ; Eaton, 53 ; 
 Florence, 60 ; Richmond (connects with 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Rail- 
 way), 70. 
 
 Stations. — Pittsburg, Cincinnati & Si. 
 Louis Railway. — Richmond, 70 miles from 
 Cincinnati ; Washington, 79 ; Ilagerstown 
 (connects with Indianapolis, Cincinnati & 
 Lafayette Railway), 86 ; Millville, 91 ; New 
 Castie (connects with Cincinnati & In- 
 dianapolis Junction Railway), 97 ; Sulphur 
 Springs, 104; Middletown, 110; Ander- 
 son (connects with Cleveland, Columbus, 
 Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway), 118; 
 Fnmkton, 128; Ellwood, 133; Windfall, 
 142 ; Kokomo (connects with Indiana- 
 polis, Peru fit Chicago Railway), 155 ; Lin- 
 coln, 101; Walbauui, 171; Anoka, 173; 
 Logansport (connects with Peoria Lino 
 
Camden.] 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 [Hagerstown; 
 
 and with Toledo, Wabash, and Western 
 Railway), 177 ; Royal Centre, 189 ; Wi- 
 inunac, 203 ; La Crosse (connects with 
 Louisville, New Albany & Chicago Rail- 
 way), 227 ; Hebron, 242 ; Crown Point, 
 252 ; Shererville, 259 ; Chicago (connects 
 with all railways diverging), 294. 
 
 Between Cincinnati and Hamilton, this 
 road has been described ; Hamilton, the 
 only station of importance, being noticed 
 on page 31. 
 
 Camden, O. (44 miles), is a pleas- 
 ant village, surrounded by a fine farming 
 country. 
 
 Katon, ©. (53 miles), the capital 
 of Preble County, is a handsome and pros- 
 perous village on Seven-Mile Creek, which 
 furnishes a good water-power. It is about 
 one mile east of the site of old Port 
 St. Clair, which was built in the winter 
 of 1791-92, General Harrison, then an 
 ensign, commanding the guard. 
 
 BEicSimoiid, Ind. (70 miles). (See 
 page 42.) 
 
 flagerstowm (86 miles), a pros 
 perous town, is situated on a branch of 
 Whitewater River, and at the terminus of 
 the Whitewater Canal. The Indianapolis, 
 Cincinnati & Lafayette Railway connects 
 here. 
 
 Newcastle (97 miles), the capital 
 of Henry County, is situated upon Blue 
 River, which furnishes a fine water-power. 
 The Cincinnati & Indianapolis Junction 
 Railway connects here. 
 
 Anderson (118 miles) connects 
 with the Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati 
 & Indianapolis Railway. (See page 58.) 
 
 IKoHcoam© (155 miles), the capital of 
 Howard County, situated on Wild-cat 
 Creek, is the seat of the State Normal 
 School. It connects with the Indianapolis, 
 Peru & Chicago Railway. 
 
 liOgansport (177 miles). (See 
 page 28.) 
 
 The rest of this route is identical with 
 Through Route IV. (See page 28.) 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 CnrCINXATI, OHIO, TO CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
 Via Whitewater Valley, Branch of Indian- 
 apolis, Cincinnati <& Lafayette Rail-way, 
 known as Cincinnati & Chicago Air Line. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — South Side, 5 
 miles ; Delhi, 11 ; North Bend, 15 ; Cleves 
 
 16 ; Valley Junction (connects with the 
 Main Line), 18 ; Hunt's Grove, 20; Har- 
 rison, 25 ; Longnecker's, 29 ; New Tren- 
 ton, 32 ; Ashby's, 33 ; Cedar Grove, 37 ; 
 Cooley's, 39; Brookville, 43; Yellow 
 Bank, 47; Metamora, 52; Colter's, 53; 
 Laurel, 58; Alpine, 62; Nulltown, 64; 
 Connersville (connects with Fort Wayne, 
 Muncie & Cincinnati Railway), 68 ; Bee- 
 son's, 74 ; Milton, 79 ; Cambridge City 
 (connects with Indianapolis Division of 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Rail- 
 way), 81; Hagerstown (connects with 
 Cincinnati & Chicago Line of Pittsburg, 
 Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway), 88 ; 
 Chicago, 296. 
 
 NortSi ISend, ©. (15 miles), has 
 been described in Lake and River Tour 
 No. II. (See page 168.) 
 
 Talley .Innction, O. (18 miles). 
 The Whitewater Valley Branch diverges 
 here from the Main Line. 
 
 ISroolkville, laid. (43 miles), a 
 lively business town, is reached after a 
 pleasant ride of 25 miles up the White- 
 water Valley. It is the capital of Frank- 
 lin County, and is situated at the forks of 
 the Whitewater River and on the Wliite- 
 water Canal. The river furnishes water- 
 power for several mills and factories. 
 
 fi^aiirel (58 miles), a growing village, 
 is situated on the Whitewater River and 
 Canal. 
 
 Connersville (68 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Fayette County, is a handsome vil- 
 lage, noted for its public buildings ; the 
 court-house being one of the most elegant 
 in the State. It stands on the bank of 
 the Whitewater River. The Whitewater 
 Canal passes through the village. The 
 Fori Wayne, Muncie & Cincinnati Railway 
 connects here. 
 
 Cambridge City (81 miles), a 
 village on the Whitewater River and Canal, 
 at the crossing of the Indianapolis Di- 
 vision of the Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. 
 Louis Railway, connects with a Branch 
 of the Jeffersonville, Madison & Indian- 
 apolis Railway. 
 
 Hagerstown (88 miles) is an 
 active business place at the head of navi- 
 gation on the Whitewater Canal. The 
 traveller is transferred here to the track 
 of the Cincinnati & Chicago Line of the 
 Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway 
 (described as Route I. of Ohio). 
 187 
 
LlBERTT.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Frankfort. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 CIXr/XXATI, OHIO, TO INDIANAPOLIS, 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Via Cincinnati cfc Ind ianapolis Junction 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — Hamilton (con- 
 nects with Cincinnati, Hamilton & Dayton 
 and Cincinnati, Richmond & Chicago 
 Railways), 25 miles ; Oxford, 39 ; College 
 Corner, 45 ; Liberty, 52 ; Brownsville, 59 ; 
 Connersville (connects with Fort Wayne, 
 Muncie & Cincinnati Railway), 67 ; Vienna, 
 76 ; Rushville, 85 ; Burlington, 92 ; Mor- 
 ristown, 98 ; Fountaintown, 103 ; Pales- 
 tine, 109 ; Indianapolis (connects with 
 railways diverging), 123. 
 
 From Cincinnati to Oxford, see page 31. 
 
 ILI!>crty, Ssaal. (52 miles), the 
 capital of Union County, contains the 
 county seminary. 
 
 Coaiaaers ville (67 miles) has heen 
 described in Route II. (See page 187.) 
 
 Ksislaville (85 miles), the capital 
 of Rush County, is a thriving place, situ- 
 ated on Flat Rock Creek, at the crossing 
 of the Columbus, Shelby & Cambridge City 
 Branch of the Jeffcrsonville, Madison & 
 Indianapolis Railway. It has a handsome 
 court-house and several pretty churches. 
 
 laasliaEaapolis (123 miles). (See 
 page 43.) 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 CINCINNATI, OHIO, TO LAFAYETTE, 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Via Indianapolis, Cincinnati & Lafayette 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Cincinnati — Sedamsville, 3 
 miles ; River Side, 4 ; South Side, 5 ; 
 Anderson's Ferry, 7 ; Trautman's, 8 ; 
 Delhi, 11; Devens, 14; North Bend, 15; 
 Cleves, 16 ; Valley Junction (connects 
 with Whitewater Division), 18 ; Eliza- 
 bethtown, 20 ; Hardentown, 23 ; Lau- 
 renceburg (connects with Ohio & Mis- 
 sissippi Railway), 25 ; Newtown, 26 ; 
 Guilford, 33 ; Uansell's, 34 ; Harman's, 
 40 ; Weisburg, 42 ; Sunman's, 46 ; 
 Spades, 48; Morris, 51; Batesville, 54 ; 
 New Point, 60; Smith's Crossing, 62; 
 McCoy's, 65; Greensburg, 69; Adams, 
 75; St. Paul, 80; Waldron, 81; Pres- 
 cott, 84 ; Shelbyvillc (connects with Co- 
 lumbus & Shelby Division of JeiTerson- 
 188 
 
 ville, Madison, & Indianapolis Railway), 
 88 ; Fairland (connects with Cincin- 
 nati & Martiusville Division), 95 ; Lon- 
 don, 99 ; Brookfield, 100 ; Acton, 102 ; 
 Gallaudet, 106 ; Indianapolis (connects 
 with St. Louis, Vandalia, Terre Haute, 
 and Indianapolis Railway), 115; Au- 
 gusta, 125 ; Zionsville, 130 ; Whites- 
 town, 136; Holmes's, 139; Lebanon, 
 143; Hazelrigg, 148; Thorntown, 153 ; 
 Colfax (connects with stages to Frank- 
 fort, etc.), 158; Clarke's Hill, 163; 
 Stockwell, 167; Culver's, 171; Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Crossing 
 (connects with Louisville, New Albany & 
 Chicago and Toledo, Wabash & Western 
 Railways), 178 ; Lafayette, 179. 
 
 As far as Valley Junction, where the 
 Whitewater Valley Division diverges, 
 this route is identical with Route II. of 
 Indiana. 
 
 EL.JlUl^e3acc'bll^g•, Saaal. (25 
 miles), has been described in Route IX. 
 (See page 59.) Leaving this place, the 
 road diverges from the Ohio River, which 
 it has followed so far, turning toward the 
 northwest. 
 
 Morris (51 miles) is an eating-sta- 
 tion; all trains stopping 15 minutes. 
 
 CJa*eemsl»Mrg (69 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Decatur County, is a beautiful and 
 well-built village. It was settled in 1821, 
 and since the construction of the rail- 
 road has grown rapidly. 
 
 Saaelljy ville (88 miles), the capital 
 of Shelby County, and the seat of a 
 large seminary, is upon the left bank of 
 Blue River. It connects with the Co- 
 lumbus <fr Shelby Division of the Jcffcr- 
 sonville, Madison <£• Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 S^airlaaacl (95 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage at the junction of the Cincinnati <£• 
 Martinsville Division. 
 
 lBi4lajinsij»olis (115 miles). Con- 
 nections are made here with all diverging 
 railways. (See page 43.) 
 
 Lebanon (143 miles) is the capital 
 of Boone County. 
 
 TTlaoraatowia (153 miles) is a good- 
 sized and pleasantly-located village. 
 
 Colias (158 miles) is a small village, 
 connecting with a line of stages for 
 Frankfort. 
 
 Waaalcfort, reached by stage, is 
 the capital of Clinton County. It is on 
 a branch of the Wild-cat River, 
 
Stations.] 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 [LAfORTE. 
 
 Lafayette (179 miles) has been 
 described in Route XVI. (See page 84.) 
 
 IIOUTE V. 
 
 MADISON TO CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. 
 
 Via Madison Branch of Jeffersonrillc, Madi- 
 son & Indianapolis Railway; Main Line 
 of the same; Indianapolis, Peril & Chica- 
 go; Chicago, Cincinnati & Louisville, and 
 Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Rail- 
 ways. 
 
 Stations. — Jeffersonvillc, Madison & 
 Indianapolis Raihcay. — Madison — Du- 
 pont, 14 miles from Madison ; North 
 Vernon (connects with Ohio & Mississip- 
 pi Railway), 24 ; Scipio, 31 ; Elizabeth- 
 town, 38 ; Columbus (connects with 
 Main Line), 45 ; Taylorsville, 51 ; Edin- 
 burg, 55; Amity, 61 ; Franklin (connects 
 with the Cincinnati & Martinsville 
 Branch of Indianapolis, Cincinnati & 
 Lafayette Railway), 66 ; Greenwood, 75 ; 
 Indianapolis (connects with railways di- 
 verging), 86. 
 
 Stations. — Indianapolis, Peru & Chica- 
 go Railway. — Indianapolis, 86 miles from 
 Madison ; Castleton, 97 ; Noblesville, 
 108; Cicero, 114; Tipton, 125; Sharps- 
 ville, 132 ; Kokomo (connects with Pitts- 
 burg, Cincinnati & St. Louis, formerly 
 Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway), 140 ; Miami, 149 ; Bunker 
 Hill (connects with Pittsburg, Cincinna- 
 ti & St. Louis Railway), 154 ; Peru (con- 
 nects with Toledo, Wabash & Western, 
 and Chicago, Cincinnati k Louisville 
 Railways), 161. 
 
 Stations. — Chicago, Cincinnati & 
 Louisville Railway. — Peru, 161 miles from 
 Madison. Deeds, 171 ; Rochester, 184 ; 
 Plymouth (connects with Pittsburg, Fort 
 Wayne & Chicago Railway), 204 ; Wal- 
 kerton, 218; Laporte (connects with 
 Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Rail- 
 way), 234. 
 
 Stations. — Lake Shore & Michigan 
 Southern Railway. — Laporte, 234 miles 
 from Madison ; Chesterton, 236 ; Engle- 
 wood, 287 ; Chicago, 296. 
 
 3?£a«lison has been described in 
 Lake and River Tour No. II. (See page 
 169.) 
 
 North Vernon (24 miles) con- 
 nects with the Ohio & Mississippi Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Colnmlms (45 miles), the capital 
 of Bartholomew County, is a thriving 
 place, situated on the Hast Fork of White 
 River. The road connects at this place 
 with the Main Line, and with the Colum- 
 bus, Shelby & Rushville Branch. 
 
 Eclinonrg (55 miles) is a prosper- 
 ous village, built upon the bank of Blue 
 River, which give3 it a good water-pow- 
 er. 
 
 Franklin (66 miles), the capital 
 of Johnson County, on Young's Creek, is 
 the principal town between Madison and 
 Indianapolis.- In this place are Franklin 
 College (Baptist), a large county semina- 
 ry, and several churches. The Cincinnati 
 & Martinsville Division of the Indianapo- 
 lis, Cincinnati <& Lafayette Railway con- 
 nects here. 
 
 Indianapolis (86 miles) connects 
 with all diverging railways. (See page 
 43.) 
 
 At Indianapolis we take the Indian- 
 apolis, Peru & Chicago Railway. 
 
 Nol>5esville (108 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Hamilton County, stands upon a 
 broad plain, highly cultivated. The busi- 
 ness and population of the town have in- 
 creased rapidly since the opening of the 
 railroad. There are several hotels in 
 this place. 
 
 Tipton (125 miles), situated on a 
 high prairie, the capital of Tipton Coun- 
 ty, is a thriving place, rapidly increasing 
 in population and importance. 
 
 Kokomo (140 miles) has been de- 
 scribed in Route I. of Indiana. (See page 
 187.) 
 
 Banker Mill (154 miles) is a 
 small village at the crossing of the Pitts- 
 burg, Cincinnati & St. Louis Railway. 
 
 Peru (161 miles) has been described 
 in Route XV. (See page 83.) 
 
 The next link in this chain of roads is 
 the Chicago, Cincinnati & Louisville Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Rochester (184 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Fulton County, is situated on Mill 
 Creek. 
 
 IPlynionth (204 miles). (See page 
 25.) 
 
 ILaporte (234 miles) connects 
 with Lake Shore & Michigan Southern 
 Railway. (For the remainder of this 
 route, see page 22.) 
 
 189 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mitchell. 
 
 M O UTE VI. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY, TO CHICAGO, 
 ILLINOIS 
 
 Via Jefersonrille, Madison tk Indianapolis ; 
 Indianapolis, Peril, & Chicago; Chicago, 
 Cincinnati & Louisville, and Lake Shore <£ 
 Michigan Southern Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Jeffersonville, Madison & In- 
 dianapolis Railway. — Louisville, Jeffer- 
 sonville (connects with river steamers) ; 
 Sellersburg, 9 miles; Memphis, 15; Vi- 
 enna, 26; Marshfield, 31 ; Crothersville, 
 37 ; Earmington, 46 ; Seymour (connects 
 with Ohio & Mississippi Railway), 49 ; 
 Jonesville, 56; Waynesville, 60; Wale3- 
 boro, 62 ; Columbus (Junction of Madison 
 Branch and Shelby, Rushville & Cam- 
 bridge City Branch), 67 ; Tavlorsville, 73 ; 
 Edinburg, 77 ; Amity, 83 ; Franklin, 88 ; 
 Greenwood, 97 ; Indianapolis (connects 
 with diverging railways), 108. 
 
 Stations. — Indianapolis, Peru & Chica- 
 go Railway. — Indianapolis, 108 miles from 
 Louisville; Castleton, 119; Noblesville, 
 130 ; Cicero, 136; Tipton, 147; Sharpsville, 
 154 ; Kokomo (connects with Columbus, 
 Chicago & Indiana Central Railway), 162 ; 
 Miami, 171 ; Bunker Hill (connects with 
 Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway), 176; Peru (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western and Chicago, 
 Cincinnati & Louisville Railways), 183. 
 
 Stations. — Chieayo, Cincinnati & 
 Louisville Railway. — Peru, 183 miles from 
 Louisville; Deeds, 193; Rochester, 206; 
 Plymouth (connects with Pittsburg, Fort 
 Wayne & Chicago Railway), 226 ; Walk- 
 erton, 240 ; Laporte (connects with Lake 
 Shore & Michigan Southern Railway), 
 256. 
 
 Stations. — Lake Shore & Michiyan 
 Southern Railway. — Laporte, 256 miles 
 from Louisville; Chesterton, 258; En- 
 glewood, 309 ; Chicago, 315. 
 
 E^oiiisville, the largest city in 
 Kentucky, and the second in size on the 
 Ohio River, is described in Appletons' 
 Hand-Book of American Travel— South- 
 ern Tour. 
 
 Jetfcrsonville, Ind., has been 
 described in Lake and River Tour No. 
 II. (See page 169.) 
 
 Seymour (49 miles) is the crossing 
 of the Ohio & Mississippi Railway. 
 
 < olia isiImis (67 miles), junction of 
 190 
 
 the Madison Division, and of the Shelby, 
 Rushville & Cambridyc City Branch. This 
 town and the remainder of the route have 
 been described as Route V. of Indiana. 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY, TO CHICAGO, 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Via Louisville, New Albany & Chicago and 
 Michigan Central Hallways. 
 
 Stations. — Louisville (connects with 
 railways diverging) ; New Albany (con- 
 nects with river steamers) ; Providence, 
 18 miles; Salem, 35; Mitchell (connects 
 with Ohio & Mississippi Railway), 61 ; 
 Bedford, 71; Bloomington, 96; Gosport 
 (connects with Indianapolis & Viucennes 
 Railway), 113; Greencastle (connects 
 with Terre Haute & Indianapolis Rail- 
 way), 139; Bainbridge, 148; Crawfords- 
 ville (connects with Indianapolis, Bloom- 
 ington & Western Railway), 170; Junc- 
 tion, 196 ; Lafayette (connects with To- 
 ledo, Wabash & Western, and Indianap- 
 olis, Cincinnati & Lafayette Railways), 
 197; Brookston, 211; Reynolds (con- 
 nects with Western Division Columbus, 
 Chicago & Indiana Central Railway), 221 ; 
 Francesville, 237 ; La Crosse (connects 
 with Chicago Division Columbus, Chicago 
 & Indiana Central Railway), 260 ; Wana- 
 tah (connects with Pittsburg, Fort Wayne 
 & Chicago Railway), 267 ; La Croix (con- 
 nects with Lake Shore & Michigan South- 
 ern Railway), 279 ; Michigan City (con- 
 nects with Michigan Central Railway), 
 288 ; Chicago, 344. 
 
 Louisville, Ky., the largest city 
 in the State, is described in Appletons' 
 Hand-Book of American Travel — South- 
 ern Tour. 
 
 IVew Albany, Intl., has been 
 described in Lake and River Tour, No. 
 II. (See page 170.) 
 
 Salem (35 miles), the capital of 
 Washington County, stands on rolling 
 ground near the source of Blue River. 
 Lost River, which rises in this county, is 
 an interesting stream. At one point it 
 sinks into the earth and runs in a subter- 
 ranean channel for 11 miles, ami then 
 rises to the surface and unites with Lick 
 Creek, a tributary of White Rimer. 
 
 Mitchell (01 miles) is a village at 
 
Bedford.] 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 [Covington. 
 
 the crossing of the Ohio & Mississippi 
 Railway. 
 
 ISedtbrd (71 miles), the capital of 
 Lawrence County, on the East Fork of 
 White River, is well built, pleasantly sit- 
 uated, and has a good local trade. 
 
 ISloomington (96 miles), the cap- 
 ital of Monroe County, and the seat of the 
 State University, was settled iu 1819. It 
 stands on the dividing ridge between the 
 East and West Forks of White River. 
 
 CSosport (113 miles), on the West 
 Fork of White River, the principal com- 
 mercial town of Owen County, connects 
 with the Indianapolis & Vincennes Rail- 
 way. 
 
 €*reencastle (139 miles) has been 
 described in Route VII. (See page 44.) 
 
 Crawfordsville (170 miles), the 
 capital of Montgomery County, beautifully 
 situated on Sugar Creek, is in the midst 
 of a fine and well-wooded farming coun- 
 try, in which coal is abundant. Its edu- 
 cational advantages are unusually good, 
 it having excellent public schools, and be- 
 ing the seat of Wabash College, founded 
 in 1835. Manufacturing is carried on to 
 some extent at this point, Sugar Creek 
 affording good water-power. 
 
 Lafayette (197 miles) has been 
 described in Route XVI. (See page 84.) 
 
 Reynolds (221 miles) is a village 
 at the crossing of the Western Division 
 of the Columbus, Chicago <£ Indiana Cen- 
 tral Railway. 
 
 3L»a Crosse (260 miles) is a village 
 at the crossing of the Chicago Division 
 of the Columbus, Chicago <Sc Indiana Cen- 
 tral Railway. 
 
 Wanutiili (267 miles) is a small 
 village at the crossing of the Pittsburg, 
 Fort Wayne & Chicago Railway. 
 
 !<a Croix (279 miles) is the cross- 
 ing of the Lake S/wre tt Michigan South- 
 ern Railway. 
 
 Michigan City (288 miles). 
 From this point the road follows the line 
 of the Michigan Central Railway. (See 
 page 6.) 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS TO VINCENNES. 
 Via Indianapolis <& Vincennes Railway. 
 Stations. — Indianapolis : Moresville, 
 16 miles ; Martinsville (connects with 
 
 Cincinnati & Martinsville Division of the 
 Indianapolis, Cincinnati & Louisville Rail- 
 way), 30 ; Gosport (connects with Louis- 
 ville, New Albany & Chicago Railway), 
 44; Spencer, 53; Worthington, 71; 
 Marco, 86 ; Edwardsport, 96 ; Vincennes 
 (connects with Ohio & Mississippi and 
 Evansville & Crawfordsville Railways), 
 116. 
 
 This line is a short but important one. 
 For almost its entire length the road fol- 
 lows the valley of the West Fork of White 
 River. 
 
 Indianapolis. (See page 43.) 
 
 Martinsville (30 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Morgan County, is an important 
 place, being, in times of high water, at 
 the head of navigation on the West Fork 
 of White River. It is surrounded by 
 a rich farming country, for which it is 
 the shipping-port and market, and is the 
 western terminus of the Cincinnati & 
 Martinsville Branch of the Indianapolis, 
 Cincinnati & Lafayette Railway. 
 
 <5osport (44 miles) has been de- 
 scribed in Route VII. of Indiana. (See 
 page 191.) 
 
 Spencer (53 miles), the capital of 
 Owen County, situated on the West lork 
 of White River, is the shipping-port of a 
 large section of country. The Falls of 
 Eel River iu this country are very beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 Vincennes (116 miles) has been 
 described in Route IX. (See page 60.) 
 
 R O TJTE IX. 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS TO DANVILLE, ILL. 
 
 Via- Indianapolis, Bloomington & Western 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Indianopolis : Pittsboro', 
 18 miles ; Jamestown, 28 ; Crawfordsville 
 (connects with Louisville, New Albany & 
 Chicago Railway), 44 ; Hillsboro', 59 ; 
 Covington, 72 ; Danville (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western Railway), 
 85. 
 
 This short road is of great importance 
 as forming a link in the shortest line be- 
 tween Indianapolis and Omaha. 
 
 Crawfordsville (44 miles) has 
 been described in Route VII. of Indiana. 
 (See page 191.) 
 
 Covington (72 miles), the capital 
 191 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Illinois. 
 
 of Fountain County, is an important vil- 
 lage on the cast bank of the Wabash 
 River and upon the Wabash & Eric Canal. 
 In the vicinity are large fields of coal and 
 iron-ore, aud great quantities of grain 
 are shipped here both by rail and canal. 
 The river is crossed at this point by a 
 handsome bridge. 
 
 l>»mville, III. (85 miles), has 
 been described in Route XVI. (See page 
 84.) _ 
 
 This Route -will be continued westward 
 as Route XII. of Illinois. 
 
 BOUTE X. 
 
 EVANSVILLE TO TERRE HAUTE AKD 
 
 ROCKVILLE. 
 
 Via Evansville <& Crawfordmille Railieay. 
 
 Stations. — Evansville (connects by 
 ferry with Evansville, Henderson & Nash- 
 ville Railway, and with river steamers) : 
 
 Ingles, 10 miles ; Princeton, 27 ; Decker's, 
 40 ; Vincennes (Junction of Ohio & Mis- 
 sissippi Railway), 51; Emison's, 61; 
 Carlisle, 73 ; Shelburn, 90 ; Hartford, 98 ; 
 Terre Haute (connects with Terrc Haute 
 & Indianapolis and Indianapolis & St. 
 Louis Railways), 109; Rosedale, 122; 
 Rockville, 132. 
 
 Evansville has been described in 
 Lake and River Tour, No. II. 
 
 B*rimcetoia (27 miles), the capital 
 of Gibson County, is well situated in the 
 midst of a productive country. 
 
 IFimceMiaes (51 miles) has been 
 described in Route IX. (See page 60.) 
 
 Terre Ilawte (109 miles) has 
 been described in Route VII. (Sec page 
 45.) 
 
 ISoclcville (132 miles)' is the cap- 
 ital of Parke County, and the present 
 terminus of the road. The country about 
 the town is cut up into productive farms. 
 Coal is abundant in the neighborhood. 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Illinois, the fourth State of the Union 
 in population, and the first in the pro- 
 duction of breadstuffs, extends north- 
 ward 380 miles, and westward (at the 
 extremest point) 200 miles. It is bound- 
 ed by Wisconsin on the north, Lake 
 Michigan and Indiana on the east, Ken- 
 tucky on the south (the Ohio between), 
 and Missouri and Iowa on the west, the 
 Mississippi River intervening. The gen- 
 eral surface of the country here, as in 
 Indiana and Ohio, is that of elevated 
 table-lands, inclining southward, though 
 it is more level than the neighboring 
 States. In the lower portions there are a 
 small stretch of hilly laud, and some 
 broken tracts in the northwest ; and upon 
 the Illinois River there are lofty bluffs, 
 and yet higher and bolder points on the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 The great landscape feature of Illinois 
 is its prairies, which are seen in almost 
 every part of the State. The want of 
 varkty, which is ordinarily essential to 
 landscape attraction, is more than made 
 up in the prairie scenery. As far as the eye 
 can reach, the great unvarying plain 
 192 
 
 rolls on ; its sublime grandeur softened 
 but not weakened by the occasional 
 groups of trees in its midst, or by the 
 forests on its verge, or by the countless 
 flowers everywhere upon its surface. 
 The prairies abound in game. The prai- 
 rie-duck, sometimes but improperly called 
 grouse, are abundant in September and 
 October. 
 
 Perhaps the most striking picture of 
 the prairie country is to be found on 
 Grand Prairie. Its gently-undulating 
 plains, profusely decked with flowers of 
 every hue, and skirted on all sides by 
 woodland copse, roll on through many 
 long miles from Jackson County, north- 
 east to Iroquois County, with a width 
 varying from one to a dozen or more 
 miles. The uniform level of the prairie 
 region is supposed to result from the de- 
 posit of waters by which the land was 
 ages ago covered. The soil is entirely 
 free from stones, and is extremely fertile. 
 The most notable characteristic of the 
 prairies, their destitution of vegetation, 
 excepting in the multitude of rank 
 grasses and flowers, will gradually dis- 
 
Illinois.] 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 [Illinois River. 
 
 appear, since nothing hinders the growth 
 of the trees but the continual fires which 
 sweep over the plains. These prevented, 
 a fine growth of timber soon springs up ; 
 and as the woodlands are thus assisted 
 in encroaching upon and occupying the 
 plains, settlements and habitations will 
 follow, until the prairie tracts are over- 
 run with cities and towns. Of the thirty- 
 five and a half millions of acres embraced 
 within the State, but thirteen millions, or 
 little more than one-third, were improved 
 in 1860. The census of 1870 exhibits 
 a great increase. Despite the wonderful 
 progress in population and production, 
 however, Illinois is yet only in her in- 
 fancy. Excepting the specialty of the 
 prairie, the most interesting landscape 
 scenery of this State is that of the bold, 
 acclivitous river-shores of the Mississippi, 
 the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers. 
 
 The population of Illinois, in 1860, was 
 1,711,951; in 1870 it was 2,539,638, 
 which exceeds that of the States of Dela- 
 ware, Florida, California, Connecticut, 
 Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, Ore- 
 gon, Rhode Island, and Vermont, com- 
 bined. The total valuation of real estate 
 and personal property in Illinois is given 
 by the census of 1870 as $764,787,000, 
 against $389,207,372 in 1860. 
 
 The agricultural capabilities of Illinois 
 are unsurpassed by those of any State in 
 the Union. The soil on the river-bottoms 
 is often 25 or 30 feet deep, and the upper 
 prairie districts are hardly less produc- 
 tive. The richest tracts are the Great 
 American Bottom, lying along the Missis- 
 sippi, between the mouths of the Missouri 
 and the Kaskaskia Rivers, a stretch of 
 80 miles, the country on the Rock River 
 and its branches, and that around the 
 Sangamon and other waters. Thirty to 
 40 bushels of wheat, or 80 to 100 bushels 
 of Indian corn to the acre, is by no means 
 an uncommon product here. In the 
 growth of Indian corn, Illinois ranks as 
 the first State in the Union. In respect 
 to other agricultural staples and products, 
 what we have said of the adjoining States 
 of Ohio and Indiana may be applied to 
 Illinois ; so of the forest-trees of the coun- 
 try. 
 
 In mineral resources the State is well 
 provided. It shares, with the adjoining 
 fcstates of Iowa and Wisconsin, extensive 
 9 
 
 supplies of lead. The trade in thi3 
 mineral is the chief support of the pros- 
 perous town of Galena, in the northwest 
 part of Illinois. According to Taylor, the 
 coal-fields of the State occupy an area of 
 44,000 square miles. Bituminous coal 
 exists everywhere, and may be obtained 
 in many places without excavation. The 
 bluffs, near the Great American Bottom, 
 contain immense beds of this valuable 
 product. Mines are worked near Peoria, 
 along the line of the Illinois Central Rail- 
 way, and at many other points. In the 
 southern part of the State iron is abun- 
 dant ; and in the north, copper, zinc, lime, 
 fine marbles, freestone, gypsum, and 
 quartz-crystals. Silver, too, is found in 
 St. Clair County. At Peoria, in the 
 immediate neighborhood of the city, is a 
 valuable spring, strongly impregnated 
 with sulphur. 
 
 Medicinal springs, sulphur and chalyb- 
 eate, are found in various parts of the 
 State. In Jefferson County there is a 
 spring much frequented, and in the 
 southern part of the State are some 
 waters strongly impregnated with Epsom 
 salts. 
 
 KIVEKS AND LAKES. 
 
 TIae Mississippi forms the en- 
 tire western boundary of the State, and 
 many of the most remarkable pictures, 
 for which its upper waters are famous, 
 occur in this region — the tall, fantastically 
 shaped bluffs rising at different points to 
 the height of from 100 to 500 feet. The 
 Fountain Bluff of the Mississippi is in 
 Jackson County ; it is oval-shaped, is six 
 miles in circuit, and 300 feet in height. 
 The summit is full of sink-holes. (See 
 Lake and River Tour, No. I.) 
 
 Xlae Illinois, the largest river of 
 the State, flows through its centre south- 
 westerly into the Mississippi, 20 miles 
 above Alton. Exclusive of its branches, 
 the Dcs Plaines and the Kankakee, its 
 length is about 320 miles. Its navigable 
 waters extend at some seasons 206 miles 
 to Ottawa, at the mouth of the Fox River. 
 Peoria is upon its banks, 200 miles from 
 its mouth. 
 
 The picturesque heights of the Illinois, 
 
 called the Starved Rock, and the Lover's 
 
 Leap, are frequently visited by tourists 
 
 in search of the curious. Starved liock, 
 
 193 
 
Ohio Rivek.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 eight miles below Ottawa, is a grand per- 
 pendicular limestone cliff, 150 feet in 
 height. lover's Leap is a precipitous 
 ledge, just above Starved Rock, and 
 directly across the river is Buffalo Rock, 
 a height of 100 feet. Peoria Lake is an 
 expansion of the Illinois, near the middle 
 of the State. Above Vermilion River 
 there are some rapids, which boats pass 
 only in periods of high water. 
 
 The Ohio bounds the State on its 
 southern extremity. It is in this part of 
 Illinois (Hardin County) that the famous 
 Gave in tlie Rock of the Ohio shore oc- 
 curs. (See Lake and River Toue, No. 
 II.) 
 
 The Wabash, on the eastern 
 boundary, divides Illinois in the lower 
 portion from Indiana. (See Indiana.) 
 
 ££«>«•!£ River has its source in the 
 neighborhood of Lake Winnebago, in 
 Wisconsin, and flows a distance of 330 
 miles to the Mississippi, a little below the 
 town of Rock Island. It enters Illinois 
 near Beloit, and afterward passes Rock- 
 ford and Dixon. Its course is through a 
 rich valley or plain, remarkable for its 
 pictorial interest. The navigation of its 
 waters is much obstructed by rapids ; for 
 it is, unlike the sluggish Illinois, a bold, 
 swift stream. Small steamboats ascend 
 sometimes, however, 225 miles, to Jeffer- 
 son, in Wisconsin. 
 
 The B>es IPIaincs flows 150 
 miles from the southeast corner of Wis- 
 consin to Dresden, where it unites with 
 the Kankakee, and forms the Illinois. 
 
 The E&ankiikce comes from the 
 northern part of Indiana, 100 miles to 
 Dresden. Its course is sluggish, and 
 through a region chiefly occupied by 
 prairies and marshes. The stream 
 abounds in game, and during the duck- 
 shooting season is much frequented by 
 sportsmen from Chicago and the neigh- 
 borhood. 
 
 The Sangamon enters the Illi- 
 nois, about 10 miles above Beardstown, 
 after a course of nearly 200 miles. Small 
 steamers ascend it at high water. 
 
 The Fox Itives* rises in Wauke- 
 sha County, Wisconsin, and, after passing 
 the towns of Elgin, St. Charles, Geneva, 
 Batavia, and Aurora, falls into the Illinois 
 at Ottawa. 
 
 The Vermilion, the Bulbar rets, and the 
 194 
 
 Little Wabash, are tributaries of the 
 Wabash from Illinois. 
 
 I>akc Michigan forme 60 miles 
 of the northern boundary of the Stale. 
 (See chapter on Michigan.) Excepting 
 the expansion of the Illinois River, called 
 Lake Peoria, and the waters of Pishtaka, 
 in the northeast, there are no lakes of 
 importance. 
 
 Railways intersect Illinois in every 
 direction. They arc all described in the 
 preceding pages of the volume, and in 
 this chapter. In 1850 there were less 
 than 50 miles of railroad in the entire 
 State; in 1871, there were 4,823 miles 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 CHICAGO TO CAIRO. 
 
 Via Chicago Branch Illinois Central Bail- 
 •way. 
 
 Stations. — Chicago: Calumet (con- 
 nects with Michigan Central Railway), 14 
 miles ; Homewood, 24 ; Matteson (cross- 
 ing of the Joliet Branch), 28 ; Monee, 
 34 ; Peotone, 40 ; Manteno, 47 ; Kanka- 
 kee, 50 ; Chebanse, 64 ; Clifton, 69 ; Ash- 
 kum, 73 ; Danforth, 77 ; Gilman (connects 
 with Toledo, Peoria & Warsaw Rail- 
 way), 81 ; Onarga, 85 ; Bulkley, 93 ; 
 Loda, 99; Paxton, 103; Rantoul, 114; 
 Thomasboro', 119 ; Champaign (connects 
 with Indianapolis, Bloomington & West- 
 ern Railway), 128 ; Tolono (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western Railway), 
 137; Tuscola, 150; Okaw, 158 ; Milton, 
 164 ; Mattoon (connects with Indianapolis 
 & St. Louis Railway), 173; Neoga, 1S5 ; 
 Sigel, 191 ; Effingham (connects with St. 
 Louis, Vandalia, Terre Haute & India- 
 napolis Railway), 199 ; Watson, 206 ; 
 Mason, 212; Edgewood (connects with 
 Springfield & Illinois Southeastern Rail- 
 way), 215; Farina, 223; Kinmundav, 
 229; Odin (connects with Ohio & Missis- 
 sippi Railway), 244 ; Centralia (junction 
 with main line), 253; Richview, 263; 
 Ashley (connects with St. Louis & South- 
 eastern Railway), 266; Tamaroa, 280; 
 Du Quoin (connects with Belleville & 
 Southern Illinois Division of St. Louis, 
 Alton & Terre Haute Railway), 289 ; De 
 Soto, 302; Carbondale (connects with 
 Branch to Grand Tower), 308 ; Makanda, 
 317; Cobdcn, 323; Jonesboro', 329; 
 Dongola, 339; Wetaug, 341; Pulaski, 
 
Calcmet.] 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 [Cakbondale. 
 
 349 ; Villa Ridge, 353 ; Mounds, 357 ; 
 Cairo (connects by ferry with Mobile & 
 Ohio Railway at Columbus), 365. 
 
 Cmicago. (See page 6.) 
 
 Calumietf;, (14 miles) connects with 
 the Michigan Central Railway. 
 
 Maftetom. (28 miles) is at the cross- 
 ing of the Joliet Branch known as the 
 Jolict Cut-off. 
 
 Monee (34 miles) is the highest 
 point on the road, being upon the dividing 
 ridge between Lake Michigan and the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 Kankakee (56 miles), the capital 
 of Kankakee County, is upon the river 
 of the same name, v/hich is one of the 
 principal tributaries of the Illinois. 
 When the railroad was commenced, a 
 forest stood upon the site of this impor- 
 tant town. In the immediate neighbor- 
 hood of Kankakee are quarries of a 
 superior kind of limestone. 
 
 Clifton (69 miles) is supplied with 
 w r ater by means of artesian wells, a con- 
 stant supply being obtained at a depth 
 of from 80 to 100 feet. The streets are 
 well graded and planted with shade-trees. 
 
 Crilma.ii (81 miles), a rapidly-grow- 
 ing town, connects with the Toledo, 
 Peoria & Warsaw Railway. 
 
 Onarga (85 miles) is in the midst 
 of a noted fruit-region. It is the site of 
 the Onarga Institute and the Grand 
 Prairie Seminary, both flourishing insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 Loda (99 miles), beautifully located 
 on undulating ground in the centre of 
 Grand Prairie, is the market for the 
 agricultural products of the surrounding 
 country. 
 
 Paxfon (103 miles), the capital of 
 Ford county, is the seat of a Swedish 
 college named the Augustina College of 
 North America, which has in its library 
 5,000 volumes presented by the King of 
 Sweden. The schools of Paxton are 
 remarkably good. 
 
 Cliaiupaign (128 miles), connect- 
 ing with the Indianapolis, Bloomington 
 <& Western Railway, is one of the most 
 prosperous places on the line of the 
 road. Its schools are large and well con- 
 ducted. 
 
 Tolono (137 miles) is at the cross- 
 ing of the Toledo, Wabash & Western 
 Railwau. 
 
 Tuscola (150 miles) is the capital 
 of Douglas County. The first house was 
 built in 1857 ; since then the place has 
 grown very rapidly, and has now a popu- 
 lation of about 2,500. 
 
 Mattoon (173 miles). (See page 
 59.) 
 
 Kill sag-la a ni (199 miles), the capital 
 of Effingham County, is a thriving place. 
 It connects with the St. Louis, Vandalia, 
 Terre Haute & Indianapolis Railway. 
 
 Edlgcwootl (215 miles) connects 
 with the Springfield & Illinois Southeast- 
 ern Railway. 
 
 EiiBBssiBimday (229 miles) is one of 
 the most rapidly-growing places in this 
 part of Illinois. It is particularly noted 
 for the fine fruit raised in the neighbor- 
 hood. 
 
 Odin (244 miles) is a very prosper- 
 ous place, at the crossing of the Ohio & 
 Mississippi Railway. 
 
 Ccntralia (253 miles), connecting 
 with the Main Line of the Illinois Central 
 Railway, is a busy town of between 5,000 
 and 6,000 inhabitants. The cultivation 
 of fruit receives much attention in this 
 neighborhood, and very large quantities 
 of peaches are shipped annually to Chi- 
 cago. 
 
 Ashley (266 miles), situated on a 
 rolling and well-watered prairie, connects 
 with the St. Louis <£' Southeastern Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Tamaroa (280 miles) is a flourish- 
 ing place, situated in the midst of a rich 
 fruit-growing region. It does a large 
 coal-shipping trade, coal of a superior 
 quality being found in the neighborhood. 
 
 l>u Quoin (289 miles) is a rapidly- 
 growing city of about 5,000 inhabitants, 
 surrounded by fertile prairie-land, diver- 
 sified here and there by belts of fine tim- 
 ber. Fruit-raising, tobacco and cotton 
 growing, and general agriculture, are great 
 sources of prosperity to the place ; but 
 the principal business is coal-mining, 
 about a dozen companies being in active 
 operation. The Belleville & Southern Illi- 
 nois Division of St. Louis, Alton & Terra 
 Haute Railway connects at this point. 
 
 Cartoonslale (308 miles) is a very 
 busy town, having a number of cotton- 
 gins, mills, etc., the leading productions 
 of the adjacent plantations being cotton 
 and tobacco. One-fourth of all the 
 195 
 
Makaniu.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Bloomington. 
 
 tobacco grown in the State is sent to 
 market from this place. 
 
 MafcaiMla (317 miles), lying be- 
 tween two rocky bluffs, is the centre of a 
 rich farming country, particularly well 
 adapted to fruit-growing. 
 
 Joacsboro (329 miles), the capital 
 of Union County, is a prosperous place, 
 situated in a hilly country about four miles 
 from the Mississippi River. Limestone 
 crops out among the hills, fine building- 
 stone abounds, and iron-ore is found in 
 the neighborhood. Near the village are 
 some remarkable springs and large caves. 
 Jonesboro is the principal town of the 
 great fruit-region of Southern Illinois, 
 and is also the mart of large crops of 
 cotton. The Southern Slate Insane Asy- 
 lum is building at this place, and will 
 probably be finished this year. Bold 
 Knob, the highest point of land in the 
 State, is five miles north of Jonesboro. 
 
 Villa. Kidgc (353 miles) is at the 
 commencement of a series of ridges or 
 terraces, rising from the Mississippi 
 River and extending to and along the 
 Ohio, furnishing excellent sites for villas, 
 vineyards, and orchards. Fruit, tobacco, 
 cotton, and sorghum, are extensively cul- 
 tivated and thrive well in this part of the 
 State. 
 
 Mounds (357 miles). From here 
 Mound City, three miles distant, is 
 reached. 
 
 Cairo (3C5 miles) is described in 
 Lake and River Toim No. II. (See page 
 17*2.) A ferry connects the city with the 
 Mobile <& Ohio Railway at Columbus, Ky. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 CHICAGO TO 87. LOUIS. 
 Via Chicago <& Alton Railway (Air Line). 
 
 Stations. — Chicago : Bridgeport, 4 
 miles; Summit, 12; Willow Springs, 
 18; Lemont, 26; Lockport, 33 ; Joliet 
 (connects with Chicago, Rock Island & 
 Pacific Railway), 37 ; Elwood, 46 ; 
 Hampton, 49; Wilmington, 53; Braid- 
 wood, 58; Braceville, 61; Gardner, 65; 
 Dwight (connects with Western Divis- 
 ion), 74 ; Odell, 82 ; Cayuga, 87 ; Pon- 
 tiac, 92 ; Chenoa (connects with Tole- 
 do, Peoria & Warsaw Railway), 103 ; 
 Lexington, 111; Towanda, 119; Nor- 
 196 
 
 mal (connects with main line of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 124; Bloomington 
 (Jacksonville Division diverges, uniting 
 with main line again at Godfrey), 126 ; 
 Shirley, 133 ; McLean, 141 ; Atlanta, 146 ; 
 Lawn Dale, 150 ; Lincoln, 157 ; Broadwell, 
 164; Elkhart, 168; Williamsville, 174; 
 Springfield, 185 ; Toledo, Wabash & West- 
 ern Railway Junction), 187; Chatham, 
 194; Auburn, 200 ; Virden, 206 ; Girard, 
 210 ; Nilwood, 214 ; Carlinville, 223 ; Ma- 
 coupin, 230 ; Shipman, 238; Brighton (con- 
 nects with Rockford, Rock Island & St. 
 Louis Railway), 245 ; Godfrey (Jackson- 
 ville Division unites), 252 ; Alton (con- 
 nects with Indianapolis & St. Louis Rail- 
 way), 257 ; Milton, 261 ; Mitchell, 269 ; 
 Kinder, 274 ; Venice, 276 ; East St. Louis 
 (connects with all divergent railway and 
 steamboat lines), 280. 
 
 This road runs through a part of the 
 State similar in every respect to that 
 traversed by the Chicago Division of the 
 Illinois Central Railway, described in the 
 preceding Route. 
 
 JLocliport (33 miles), a prosperous 
 town on the Des Plaines River, and on 
 the Illinois & Michigan Canal, derives a 
 large revenue from its stone-quarries. 
 It has a fine water-power. 
 
 Joliet (37 miles). (See page 75.) 
 
 "Wyming*ton (53 miles), on the 
 Kankakee River, from which it derives a 
 water-power, has a thrifty and rapidly- 
 increasing population. 
 
 I> wight (74 miles). The Western Di- 
 vision of the road diverges at this place. 
 
 I*ontiac (92 miles), the capital of 
 Livingston County, is situated on the 
 Vermilion River, in a fine grain-raising 
 country. It is something of a milling- 
 town as well as a large grain-depot. 
 
 Clienoa (103 miles). (See page 81.) 
 
 Normal (124 miles) is surrounded 
 by the largest nurseries in the State, and 
 by farms devoted to the cultivation of 
 hedge-plants. Coal-mines are worked 
 in the vicinity. The State Normal Uni- 
 versity and the Soldiers' Orphans' Home 
 are located in the city. Connections 
 both here and at Burlington are made 
 with the Main Line of the Illinois Central 
 Railway, 
 
 Itlooming-ton (126 miles), the 
 capital of McLean County, is one of the 
 principal cities in the State. It is a 
 
Atlanta.] 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 [BusnNELt. 
 
 great railroad centre, and is increasing 
 rapidly in population and wealth, while 
 the surrounding country is fast filling up, 
 farms are being cultivated, and large 
 droves of cattle are fattened for the 
 market, grazing and hay-making being 
 very profitable in this region. The city 
 is handsomely built, is lighted by gas, 
 has street railways, and, unlike most 
 young Western " cities," is one in fact 
 as well as in name. Steam fire-engines 
 are in use, and the principal streets are be- 
 ing macadamized. Some of the church- 
 es arc very tasteful in design, and well 
 built ; one of the school-houses cost $30,- 
 000. Many of the stores are large and 
 well stocked, and the wholesale houses 
 compete with those of Chicago and St. 
 Louis for the trade of the neighboring 
 towns. The Market, Opera-House, Am- 
 phitheatre, etc., are large buildings calcu- 
 lated rather to meet the growing wants 
 of the city than the present demand. 
 There are excellent public schools, two 
 boarding-schools for girls, and a Roman 
 Catholic seminary. Two daily papers 
 are published here. The shops of the 
 Chicago & Alton Railway Company, 
 for the construction and repair of cars 
 and locomotives, are built of stone, and 
 with the yards attached cover 13 acres 
 of ground. There are numerous mills 
 and factories of all descriptions. The 
 population of the place is about 15,000. 
 The Jacksonville Branch diverges at this 
 place, reuniting with the Main Line at 
 Godfrey. Bloomington connects with the 
 Illinois Central and the Indianapolis, 
 Bloominyton & Western Railways. 
 
 Atlanta, (146 miles) stands upon 
 a high prairie. It is a thriving, active 
 place, having a good trade with the 
 surrounding country, and shipping large 
 herds of cattle and quantities of grain. 
 
 ILincoln (157 miles), named in 
 honor of the late President Lincoln, is 
 the capital of Logan County. It is 
 situated on Salt Creek. Although only 
 founded a few years ago, it is already 
 a place of some importance. 
 
 Spring- Cield (185 miles). (See 
 page 84.) 
 
 Auburn (200 miles) is in the 
 midst of a rich farming country, and is 
 rapidly increasing in importance and 
 population. 
 
 Carlinville (223 miles), the capital 
 of Macoupin County, is a prosperous and 
 attractive village. It is the seat of 
 Blackburn Theological Seminary. 
 
 JErlglston (245 miles) is at the 
 crossing of the Rockford, Bock Island & 
 St. Louis Railway. 
 
 CwOilfrey (252 miles) is a small 
 village at the junction of the Chicago & 
 Alton Railway with the Jacksonville Di- 
 vision. 
 
 Alton (257 miles). (See page 162.) 
 
 East §t. IL©uis> (280 miles). (See 
 page 46.) 
 
 MOUTE III. 
 
 CHICAGO TO QUIXCY. 
 Via Chicgao, Burlington & Quincy Railway. 
 Stations. — Chicago: River Side, 12; 
 Hinsdale, 18; Downer's Grove, 23; Na- 
 perville, 29 ; Aurora, 38 ; Bristol, 46 ; 
 Piano, 53 ; Somanauk, 60 ; Leland, 66 ; 
 Earl, 73 ; Mendota (connects with Illinois 
 Central Railway), 84 ; Arlington, 92 ; 
 Maiden, 99 ; Princeton, 105 ; Chicago, 
 Rock Island & Pacific Railway Junc- 
 tion, 113; Buda (connects with Buda 
 & Rushville Branch), 117; Neponset, 
 124; Kewanee, 132; Galva (connects 
 with Galva & New Boston Branch), 
 140; Altona, 147; Oneida, 151; Wa- 
 taga, 156 ; Galesburg (connects with 
 Branches to Burlington and Peoria), 163 ; 
 Abingdon, 173; St. Augustine, 179; 
 Avon, 183; Prairie City, 186; Bush- 
 nell (connects with Toledo, Peoria & 
 Warsaw Railway and with Rockford, 
 Rock Island & St. Louis Railway), 192 
 Bardolph, 196; Macomb, 204; Colches- 
 ter, 210; Tennessee, 212; Colmar, 218; 
 Plymouth, 223 ; Augusta, 227; La Prairie, 
 234 ; Camp Point (connects with Toledo, 
 Wabash & Western Railway), 242; 
 Coatsburg, 247 ; Paloma, 250 ; Cliola, 
 254 ; Quincy (connects with Hannibal & 
 St. Joseph Railway), 263. 
 
 From Chicago to Galesburg, this route 
 is identical with Route XIV. (See page 
 78.) 
 
 ISusknell (192 miles), a rapidly- 
 growing village of some importance, con- 
 nects with the Toledo, Peoria & Warsaw 
 and the Rockford, Rock Island cfr Pacific 
 Railways. 
 
 197 
 
Macomb.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Dubuque. 
 
 Itlacomllt (201 miles), a large and 
 beautiful village, the capital of Mac- 
 Donough County, stands upon a rieh and 
 highly-cultivated prairie. It is the ship- 
 ping-point for an extensive agricultural 
 region. 
 
 Ciasiap B*©Sratt (242 miles) is a vil- 
 lage at the junction with the Toledo, Wa- 
 bash (D Western Railway. 
 
 <|uincy (2G3 miles). (/Seepage 1G2.) 
 
 R O U T E I V. 
 
 CHICAGO TO DUNIEITIT, ILL., AND 
 DUBUQUE, IOWA. 
 
 Via Galena: Division of Chicago <k North 
 Western Railway anel th-e Centralia Divis- 
 ion of Illinois Central Railway. 
 
 Stations on the Galena Division of 
 the CnicAGO & Northwestern Rail- 
 way. — Chicago : Austin, 6 miles ; Harlem, 
 9 ; Elmhurst, 16; Lombard, 20; Danby, 
 23 ; Wheaton, 25 ; Winfield, 28 ; Junction 
 (diverges from mainline), 80; Wayne, 
 36 ; Clintonville, 39 ; Elgin, 42 ; Gilbert's, 
 50; Huntley, 55; Union, 63; Marengo, 
 66 ; Garden Prairie, 72 ; Belvidcre, 78 ; 
 Cherry Valley, 84 ; Rockford, 93 ; Win- 
 nebago, 100 ; Pekatonica, 107;Ridott, 
 114; Freeport (connects with Western 
 Union Railway), 121. 
 
 Stations on the Centralia Division 
 of the Illinois Central Railway. — 
 Eleroy, 129 miles from Chicago ; Lena, 
 133; Nora, 141; Warren (connects with 
 Mineral Point Railway), 144; Apple Riv- 
 er, 150; Scales Mound, 159; Council 
 Hill, 164 ; Galena, 171 ; Menominee, 180; 
 Duuleith, 188; Dubuque (connects with 
 Iowa division and with Dubuque South- 
 western Railway), 189. 
 
 Chicago. (See page 6.) 
 
 Belvialere (78 miles), the capital 
 of Boone County, is on the Kishwaukee 
 River. It is situated in a fertile and un- 
 dulating country, and has an active trade. 
 
 Itocklord (93 miles) is a flourish- 
 ing city, ou both sides of Rock River. 
 It is the capital of Winnebago County, 
 is the centre of active business, and has 
 abundant water-power. The city has 
 nearly all been built since 1836. 
 
 Freeport (121 miles), the capital 
 of Stephenson County, is on the Peka- 
 tonica River, at the junction of the Ccti- 
 198 
 
 tral Railway (main line) and the Galena 
 Division of the Chicago & Northwestern. 
 
 CJaleua, (171 miles), a nourishing 
 city, the capital of Daviess County, is on 
 Fcvre River, six miles from its entrance 
 into the Mississippi River, 450 miles 
 above St. Louis. "The river on whose 
 rocky shelf this town is built is more 
 properly an arm of the Mississippi River, 
 setting up between lofty bluffs, around 
 whose base it winds with picturesque 
 effect. The streets rise one above an- 
 other, and communicate with each other 
 by flights of steps, so that the houses on 
 the higher streets are perched like an 
 eagle's eyrie, overlooking the rest, and 
 commanding an extensive prospect. 
 Pleasant churches meet the eye on the 
 first ledge or terrace above' the levee, 
 and private residences, wearing an aspect 
 of neatness and comfort, adorn each suc- 
 cessive height." * Galena owes its growth 
 and impoi'tance mainly to the rich mines 
 of lead which surround it in all direc- 
 tions. Copper is found in large quan- 
 tities in connection with the lead. The 
 Fcvre River is navigable by steamboats, 
 which make regular trips to St. Louis, 
 St. Paul, and other ports on the Missis- 
 sippi River. Galena has a large and 
 rapidly-increasing trade. It derives its 
 name from a species of lead-ore. Presi- 
 dent Grant made this city his home for 
 many years. An error in the spelling 
 and pronunciation of Fevre River (named 
 after La Fevre, an early French trader) 
 has given some currency to an unfounded 
 impression that Galena is an unhcalthl'ul 
 place. Population, 7,019. 
 
 S>unleitli (188 miles), the capital 
 of Jo Daviess County, is ou the cast 
 bank of the Mississippi River, opposite 
 Dubuque. 
 
 Dubuque (189 miles). (See page 
 161.) 
 
 11 O JJTM V. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS TO MADISON, WIS- 
 CONSIN. 
 
 T7a Madison Division of Chicago & North- 
 western Railway. 
 STATioNS.—Chicago : Canfield, 12 miles; 
 Dcs Plaines, 17 ; Palatine, 26 ; Harrington, 
 32; Crystal Lake, 43; Woodstock, 51; 
 
 * Thompson's Letters. 
 
Chicago.] 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 [Kenosha. 
 
 Harvard (Wisconsin Division and Keno- 
 sha Division diverge), 63 ; Caledonia, 
 78 ; Beloit (connects with Western Union 
 Railway), 91 ; Afton, 98 ; Hanover, 104; 
 Magnolia, 111; Oregon, 128; Madison 
 (connects with railways diverging), 138. 
 
 Cliicag - ©. (See page 6.) 
 
 Crystal ILaBcc (43 miles) is a 
 pretty village, on a small lake of the same 
 name. 
 
 Harvard. (03 miles) is a village at 
 the intersection of the Chicago <£• Nortli- 
 western, and Kenosha & Rockford Rail- 
 ways. 
 
 Caledonia, (78 miles) is a village 
 at the intersection of the Kenosha & 
 Rockford Railway and the Madision Di- 
 vision. 
 
 ISeloit (91 miles), a flourishing city 
 in Rock County, Wisconsin, is situated at 
 the mouth of Turtle Creek, upon two plains, 
 one rising abruptly 60 or 70 feet from the 
 other. It is regularly laid out with pub- 
 lic grounds, broad streets, ornamented 
 with shade-trees, and surrounded by fine 
 prairie country, interspersed with groves 
 of timber. The city is noted for its fine 
 churches. One of these, the First Con- 
 gregational, is built of stone, and is one 
 of the largest and most beautiful in the 
 State. There are good public schools in 
 the place, and Beloit College, founded in 
 1846, a flourishing academy, richly en- 
 dowed. The Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way connects at Beloit with the Western 
 Union Railway. 
 
 Madison (138 miles), the capital 
 of the State of Wisconsin, and seat of 
 justice of Dane County, is delightfully 
 situated on an isthmus between Lakes 
 Mendota and Monono, in the centre of a 
 broad valley — surrounded by heights, 
 from which the city can be seen at a dis- 
 tance of several miles. Lake Mendota, a 
 beautiful sheet of water, lies on the north- 
 west side of the town. It is six miles long 
 by four miles wide, and deep enough for the 
 navigation of steamboats. Lake Monono 
 is smaller. In 1836, when Madison was 
 selected for the seat of government, the 
 only house it contained was one miserable 
 log-cabin. It is now handsomely built 
 up, and contains several fine structures, 
 among which are the Capitol and the Uni- 
 versity of Wisconsin. The Capitol, built 
 of stone, at a cost of $500,000, is a state- 
 
 ly edifice, standing in the centre f/f a pub- 
 lic park, on ground 70 feet above the level 
 of the lakes. The streets leading from 
 this building toward the cardinal points 
 descend gradually to the shores of the 
 lakes, except the one which extends west- 
 ward to College Hill. On this eminence, 
 one mile west of the Capitol, and about 
 125 feet above the lake, stands the Uni- 
 versity, founded in 1849. Madison has 
 some large manufactories, but is most 
 noted as an agreeable place of summer 
 resort, and is much frequented by pleas- 
 ure-seekers. Railroads radiate from the 
 city toward the north, south, east, and 
 west. Population in 1860, 6,611 ; 1870, 
 about 10,000. 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, TO KENOSHA, WIS- 
 CONSIN. 
 
 Via Milwaukee Division Chicago & Nortlir 
 western, Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Chicago : Ravenswood, 6 
 miles ; Evanston, 12 ; Glencoe, 19 ; High- 
 land Park, 23 ; Lake Forest, 28 ; Wau- 
 kegan, 36 ; State Line, 45 ; Kenosha (Ke- 
 nosha Division connects), 51. 
 
 This road is along the western shore 
 of Lake Michigan. 
 
 CBaicago. (See page 6.) 
 
 Wankegan (36 miles), formerly 
 called Littlefort, is a picturesquely-situa- 
 ted and flourishing town, and the capital 
 of Lake County, Illinois. Opposite the city 
 the lake is about 80 miles wide. Wauke- 
 gan does a large export business in grain, 
 wool, and butter. It has regular steam- 
 boat communication with Chicago and 
 other lake-ports. 
 
 Kenosha (51 miles), the capital of 
 Kenosha County, is the most southerly 
 lake-port of Wisconsin. It has a good 
 harbor, with piers extending into Lake 
 Michigan. The rich prairie-lands in the 
 neighborhood are higly cultivated, and 
 furnish the place with a good export- 
 trade. Kenosha is the terminus cf the 
 Milwaukee and Kenosha Divisions of tin 
 Chicago & Northwestern Railways. 
 
 199 
 
Kenosiia.] 
 
 WESTERN TO UK. 
 
 [Bloojiingtos". 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 KENOSHA, WISCONSIN", TO ROCKFORD, 
 ILLINOIS 
 
 Via Kenosha Division Chicago <£ Northwest- 
 ern Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Kenosha: Fox Eivcr, 19 
 miles ; Genoa, 27 ; Harvard (connects with 
 Wisconsin Division and with Madison Di- 
 vision), 44 ; Poplar Grove, 56 ; Caledonia 
 (connects with Branch to Belvidere), GO; 
 Kockford (connects with Galena Divis- 
 ion), 72. 
 
 JKenoslaa. (See page 199.) 
 
 Marvard (44 miles). (See page 
 199.) 
 
 Caledonia (GO miles). (See page 
 199.) 
 
 ESocIiioi'*! (72 miles). (See page 
 198.) 
 
 l^a Salle (117 miles). (Sec page 
 76.) 
 
 IBlooiBiiMg-lon (207 miles). (See 
 page 19G.) 
 
 S)ccatur (257 miles). (See page 
 84.) 
 
 ¥andal!a (313 miles). (See page 
 45.) 
 
 The route from Centralia to Cairo is 
 identical with Route I. of Illinois. 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 DUNLEITII TO CAIRO 
 
 Via Northern Division Illinois Central 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Dunleith : Menominee, 8 
 miles ; Galena, 17 ; Council Hill, 24 ; Scales 
 Mound, 29 ; Apple River, 38 ; Warren 
 (connects with Mineral Point Railway), 
 44 ; Nora ; 47 ; Lena, 55 ; Eleroy, 59 ; 
 Frecport (connects with Galena Division 
 of Chicago & Northwestern and Western 
 Union Railways), 67 ; Baheyville, 74 ; 
 Foreston, 80 ; Haldane, 85 ; Polo, 90 ; 
 Woosung, 96 ; Dixon (connects with Iowa 
 Division Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way), 103; Amboy, 115; Sublette, 123; 
 Mendota (connects with Chicago, Burling- 
 ton & Quinoy Railway), 131 ; Homer, 
 139; La Salle (connects with Chicago, 
 Rock I -land & Pacific Railway), 147 ; To- 
 nica, 15G ; Wenona, 167; Minonk, 178; 
 Panola, 186 ; El Paso (connects with To- 
 ledo, Peoria & Warsaw Railway), 189; 
 200 
 
 Hudson, 198 ; Normal (connects with Chi- 
 cago & Alton Railway), 205 ; Blooming- 
 ton (connects with Indianapolis, Bloom- 
 ington & Western Railway), 207 ; Hey- 
 worth, 219; Wapella, 225 ;, Clinton, 229; 
 Maroa, 238 ; Decatur (connects with To- 
 ledo, Wabash & Western Railway), 251 ; 
 Wheatland, 256 ; Macon, 261 ; Moawe- 
 qua, 266 ; Assumption, 274 ; Pana (con- 
 nects -with Indianapolis & St. Louis and 
 Springfield & Illinois Southeastern Rail- 
 way), 283; Oconee, 290; Ramsey, 300; 
 Vandalia (connnects with St. Louis, Van- 
 dalia & Terre Haute Railway), 313 ; She- 
 bonier, 319 ; Patoka, 327 ; Sandoval (con- 
 nects with Ohio & Mississippi Railway), 
 337 ; Centralia (connects with Chicago 
 Division), 343 ; Richview, 353 ; Ashiey 
 (connects with St. Louis & Southeastern 
 Railway), 356 ; Tamaroa, 370 ; Du Quoin 
 (connects with St. Louis, Alton & Terre 
 Haute Railway), 379 ; De Soto, 392 ; Car- 
 bondale, 398 ; Makanda, 407 ; Cobden, 
 413; Jonesboro', 419; Dongola, 429; 
 Wetaug, 431 ; Pulaski, 439 ; Villa Ridge, 
 443 ; Mounds, 447 ; Cairo (connects with 
 ferry to Columbus, the northern terminus 
 of the Mobile & Ohio Railway), 456. 
 
 All stations of any importance along 
 this route have already been described. 
 From Dunleith to Freeport is identical 
 with Route IV. of Illinois. 
 
 E&ixoia (103 miles) is described in 
 Route XL (£ec page 72.) 
 
 niendota (131 miles). (Sec page 
 79.) 
 
 R O UTE IX. 
 
 BLOOMIXGTON TO ALTON. 
 
 Via Jacksonville Division of Chicago & Alton 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Bloomington (connects with 
 Main Line of Chicago & Alton Railway) : 
 Stamford, 12 miles; Hopedale, 23 ; Dela- 
 van, 31 ; Mason City, 45 ; Petersburg, 61 ; 
 Ashland, 74; Jacksonville (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western and Peoria, 
 Pekin & Jacksonville Railways), 89; 
 Whitehall (connects with Kockford, Rock 
 Island k St. Louis Railway), 114 ; Carroll- 
 ton, 123 ; Jerseyville, 136; Godfrey, 150 ; 
 Alton (connects with Indianapolis & St. 
 Louis Railway), 156. 
 
 £SlooBiiLiiig'tos&. (Sec page 196.) 
 
Jacksonville] 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 ■Jacksonville (89 miles). (See 
 page 85.) 
 
 Alton (156 miles). (Sec page 102.) 
 
 BO UTE X. 
 
 PEORIA TO ALTON. 
 
 Via Peoria, Pekin & Jacksonville Railway 
 and Jacksonville Division of Chicago & Al- 
 ton Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Peoria (connects with Chica- 
 go, Rock Island & Pacific, Toledo, Peoria 
 & Warsaw, and Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Railways) : Ilollis, 8 miles ; Pe- 
 kin (connects with Indianapolis, Bloom- 
 ington & Western Railway), 10 ; Haines- 
 ville, 19 ; Manito, 22 ; Forest City, 27 ; 
 Topeka, 33 ; Havana, 41 ; Bath, 49 ; 
 Ckandlersville, 59; Virginia, 68; Little 
 Indian, 72 ; Jacksonville (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western Railway), 83 ; 
 Alton, 150. 
 
 IPeoria. (See page 81.) 
 
 IPeliin (10 miles), the capital and 
 largest place of Tazewell County, is on 
 the left bank of Illinois River. It does a 
 large produce-shipping business. The 
 Peoria, Pekin & Jacksonville, and the In- 
 dianapolis, Bloomington & Western Rail- 
 ways connect here. 
 
 •Baclcsonville (83 miles). (See 
 page 85.) 
 
 Alton (150 miles). (See page 162.) 
 
 It O UTE XI. 
 
 PEORIA TO WARSAW. 
 
 Via Toledo, Peoria & Warsaw Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Peoria (connects with Pe- 
 oria, Pekin & Jacksonville Railway) : Can- 
 ton, 28 miles ; Bushnell (connects with 
 Chicago, Burlington & Quiucy Railway), 
 60 ; La Harpe, 85 ; Elvaston, 105 ; Warsaw 
 (connects by ferry to Keokuk with Des 
 Moines Valley Railway), 117. 
 
 jpeorla. (See page 81.) 
 
 HSiaslinell (60 miles). (^Seepage 81.) 
 
 Warsaw (117 miles). (See page 82.) 
 
 BO UTE XII. 
 
 DANVILLE TO PEORIA. 
 
 Via Indianapolis, Bloomington & Western 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Danville, 85 miles from In- 
 dianapolis (connects with Toledo, Wa- 
 
 bash & Western Railway) : Ogden, 18 
 miles from Danville ; Urbana, 32 ; Cham- 
 paign (connects with Chicago Division of 
 Illinois Central Railway), 33 ; Mahomet, 
 43 ; Farmer's City, 57 ; Leroy, 66 ; Bloom- 
 ington (connects with Chicago & Alton 
 Railway and Northern Division of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 81 ; Danvers, 92 ; Tre- 
 mont, 110; Pekin (connects with Peorn, 
 Pekin k Jacksonville Railway), 117 ; Pe- 
 oria (connects with Chicago, Burlington 
 & Quincy Railway), 127. 
 
 I&anville (see page 84). The Chi- 
 cago, Danville t£* Vincennes Railway, now 
 finished to this place, opens up a new and 
 short route to Chicago. 
 
 Urbana is a small village. 
 
 ISloomington (81 miles). (See 
 page 196.) 
 
 I'eoria (127 miles). (See page 81.) 
 
 BO UTE XIII. 
 
 STERLING, ILLINOIS TO ST. LOUIS, 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 Via Rockford, Rock Island & St. Louis Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Sterling (connects with 
 Iowa Division of Chicago & Northwest, 
 em Railway): Lyndon, 13 miles; Eric, 
 22 ; Rock River Junction, 36 ; Port Byron 
 Junction (connects with Western Union 
 Railway), 45 ; Rock Island (connects with 
 Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway), 
 52 ; Orion, 70 ; Rio, 88 ; Monmouth 
 (connects with Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Railway), 108; Roseville, 121; 
 Bushnell (connects with Chicago, Bur- 
 lington & Quincy and with Toledo, Peo- 
 ria & Warsaw Railways), 137; Vermont, 
 156; Astoria, 163; Beardstown, 180; 
 Arenzville, 190 ; Chapin (connects with 
 Toledo, Wabash & Western Railway), 
 199; Winchester, 209; Whitehall (con- 
 nects with Jacksonville Division of Chi- 
 cago & Alton Railway), 224 ; SheflSeld, 
 241 ; Brighton (connects with Chicago & 
 Alton Railway), 258; Alton Junction 
 (connects with Indianapolis & St. Louis 
 Railway), 270 ; East St. Louis (connects 
 with railways diverging), 291 ; St. Louis, 
 292. 
 
 Every place of any importance along 
 this road has already been described. 
 201 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Iowa. 
 
 ROUTE XIV. 
 
 SPRINGFIELD TO PAN A. 
 
 Via Springfield & Illinois Southeastern Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Springfield (connects with 
 railways diverging) : Clarksville, 10 
 miles ; Taylorville, 27 ; Pana (connects 
 with Chicago Branch of Illinois Central 
 Railway), 43. 
 
 Springfield. (See page 84.) 
 B. B «iiiasi (43 miles). (See page 59.) 
 
 MO UTE XV. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO MOUNT VERNON. 
 
 Via St. Louis & Southeastern Railway. 
 Stations. — East St. Louis : Birkners, 
 10 miles; Belleville, 14; Pensenean, 29 ; 
 Bridgeport, 39 ; Nashville, 49 ; Ashley 
 (connects with Illinois Central Railway), 
 60 ; Woodlawn, 69 ; Mount Vernon, 76. 
 
 B'lsist f«. U.auis. (See page 46.) 
 Asliley (60 miles) is a prosperous 
 
 village in Washington County. 
 
 Mount Vernon (76 miles) is the 
 
 capital of Jefferson County. 
 
 BO UTE XVI. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO CAIRO. 
 
 Via Belleville <£: Southern Illinois Divimon of 
 the St. Louis, Alton & Terra Haute, Railway. 
 
 Stations. — East St. Louis : Bellevue, 
 14 miles ; New Athens, 29 ; Tilden (con- 
 nects with stages for Sparta), 42 ; Pinek- 
 neyville, 54 ; Du Quoin (connects with 
 Illinois Central Railway), 71 ; Cairo, 
 146. 
 
 East St. JLouis. (See page 46.) 
 
 B>aa Quoin (71 miles). (See page 
 195.) 
 
 Cairo (146 miles). (Sec page 172.) 
 
 IOWA. 
 
 Iowa was organized as a Territory in 
 1838, and admitted into the Union in 
 1846. It originally formed a part of the 
 Louisiana purchase, and subsequently a 
 part of Missouri and Wisconsin. It lies 
 wholly beyond the Mississippi. On this 
 side, its neighbors are Wisconsin and 
 Illinois. On the north is Minnesota ; on 
 the west, Minnesota and Nebraska ; and 
 upon the south, Missouri. It is 287 miles 
 long from cast to west, and 210 miles 
 broad, and embraces an area of thirty- 
 two and a half millions of acres, of which 
 about one-sixth is under cultivation. 
 The State has no very notable history, 
 beyond the usual adventure and hardship 
 of a forest-life among savage tribes. The 
 settlement of the region was commenced 
 at Burlington, in the year 1833. The 
 landscape of Iowa is marked by the fea- 
 tures which we have traced in our visit 
 to neighboring portions of the North- 
 west. The surface is, for the most part, 
 one of undulating prairie, varied with 
 ridges or plateaus, whose extra elevations 
 impel the diverse course of the rivers 
 and streams. The Colcau des Prairies 
 202 
 
 enters the State from Minnesota, and 
 forms its highest ground. On the Mis- 
 sissippi, in the northeast, the landscape 
 assumes a bolder aspect, and pictures of 
 rugged, rocky height and bluff are seen. 
 A few miles above Dubuque, Table Mound 
 will interest the traveller. It is a conical 
 hill, perhaps 500 feet high, ilattened at 
 the summit. 
 
 It has been estimated that about nine- 
 tenths of the surface of Iowa is prairie. 
 The timber is generally found in heavy 
 bodies skirting the streams, but there are 
 also many isolated groves standing, like 
 islands in the sea, far out on the prairies. 
 The eastern half of the State contains a 
 larger proportion of timber than the 
 western. The following are the leading 
 varieties of timber: white, black, and 
 burr oak, black walnut, butternut, hick- 
 ory, hard and soft maple, cherry, red and 
 white elm, ash, linn, kackberry, birch, 
 honey locust, cottonwood, and quaking 
 asp. A few sycamore-trees are found in 
 certain localities along the streams, and 
 groves of red cedar, especially along 
 Iowa and Cedar Rivers. 
 
Rivers.] 
 
 IOWA. 
 
 [Lakes. 
 
 At the time of the organization of the 
 Territory of Wisconsin in 1836, the en- 
 tire white population of that portion 
 which now constitutes the State of Iowa 
 was 10,531. In 1860 the population of 
 the State was 518,1*70, and in 1870 it was 
 1,193,083. The total valuation of real 
 estate and personal property by the late 
 census is given as §308,099,165, against 
 $205,166,985 in 1860. 
 
 EIVEES. 
 
 The rivers of Iowa are divided into 
 two systems or classes — those flowing 
 into the Mississippi, and those flowing 
 into the Missouri. The Mississippi wash- 
 es the entire eastern border of the State, 
 and is most of the year navigable for steam- 
 boats of a large class. The only serious 
 obstruction to steamers of the largest 
 size are what are known as the Lower 
 Rapids, just above the mouth of the Des 
 Moines. The Government of the United 
 States is now engaged in the construction 
 of a canal, or channel, around these 
 rapids on the Iowa side of the river, a 
 work which will prove of immense ad- 
 vantage to the commerce of Iowa for all 
 time to come. The principal rivers 
 which flow through the interior of the 
 State, east of the water-shed, are the 
 Des Moines, Skunk, Iowa, Wapsipinicon, 
 MaquoJcela, Turkey, and Upper Iowa. 
 One of the largest rivers of the State is 
 Red Cedar, which rises in Minnesota, and, 
 flowing in a southeasterly direction, joins 
 its waters with the Iowa River in Louisa 
 County, only about thirty miles from its 
 mouth, that portion below the junction 
 retaining the name of Iowa River, al- 
 though it is really the smaller stream. 
 
 The southern portion of the State is 
 drained by several streams that flow into 
 the Missouri River, in the State of Mis- 
 souri. The most important of these are 
 Chariton, Grand, Platte, One Hundred 
 and Two, and the three Ifodaways — East, 
 West, and Middle. All of these afford 
 water-power for machinery, and present 
 splendid valleys of rich farming-lands. 
 
 We have above only mentioned the 
 streams that have been designated as 
 rivers, but there are many other streams 
 of great importance and value to different 
 portions of the State, draining the country, 
 furnishing-mill sites, and adding to the 
 
 variety and beauty of the scenery. So 
 admirable is the natural drainage of al- 
 most the entire State, that the farmer 
 who has not a stream of living water on 
 his premises is an exception to the gen- 
 eral rule. 
 
 The rivers in some parts of the State 
 wind through ravines of magnesian lime- 
 stone, amid which they have gradually 
 worked their way, leaving the rocks in 
 every grotesque form of imagery. The 
 depressions in the ground, called sinks, 
 are curious objects. These singular 
 places, which are numerous, are circular 
 holes, ten and sometimes twenty feet 
 across. They abound more particularly 
 on Turkey River, in the upper part of 
 the State. Near the mouth of this 
 stream there are also to be seen many 
 small mounds, sometimes rows of them, 
 varying in height from four to six feet. 
 Iowa has many mineral products, among 
 which is an abundant supply of lead. 
 Copper and zinc are also freely found, and 
 plenty of coal. 
 
 The following are among the most 
 noted of the lakes of Northern Iowa : 
 Clear Lake, in Cerro Gordo County ; 
 Rice Lake, Silver Lake, and BrighVs Lake, 
 in Worth County ; Crystal Lake, Eagle 
 Lake, Lake Edward, and Twin Lakes, in 
 Hancock County ; Owl Lake, in Hum- 
 boldt County ; Lake Gertrude, Lake Cor- 
 nelia, Elm Lake, and Wall Lake, in Wright 
 County ; Lake Caro, in Hamilton County ; 
 Twin Lakes, in Calhoun County; Wall 
 Lake, in Sac County ; Swan Lake, in Em- 
 met County ; Storm Lake, in Buena 
 Vista County ; and Okoboji and Spirit 
 Lakes, in Dickinson County. Nearly all 
 of these are deep and clear, abounding 
 in many excellent varieties of fish, which 
 are caught abundantly by the settlers at 
 all proper seasons of the year. The name 
 " Wall Lake," applied to several of these 
 bodies of water, is derived from the fact 
 that a line or ridge of bowlders extends 
 around them, giving them somewhat the 
 appearance of having been walled. Most 
 of them exhibit the same appearance in 
 this respect to a greater or less extent. 
 
 Lake Okoboji, Spirit Lake, Storm Lake, 
 and Clear Lake, are the largest of the 
 Northern Iowa lakes. All of them, ex- 
 203 
 
Railroads.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [MONA. 
 
 cept Storm Lake, hare fine bodies of 
 timber on their borders. Lake Okoboji 
 ia about fifteen miles long, and from a 
 quarter of a mile to two miles wide. 
 Spirit Lair, just north of it, embraces 
 about ten square miles, the northern bor- 
 der extending to the Minnesota line. 
 Storm Lake is in size about three miles 
 east and west by two north and south. 
 Clear Lake is about seven miles long by 
 two miles wide. The dry rolling land 
 usually extends up to the borders of the 
 lakes, making them delightful resorts for 
 excursion or fishing parties, and they are 
 now attracting attention as places of re- 
 sort, on account of the beauty of their 
 natural scenery, as well as the induce- 
 ments which they afford to hunting and 
 fishing parties. 
 
 RAILROADS. 
 
 The unprecedented rapidity with which 
 our railroad system is being extended is 
 well shown in some statistics which have 
 been received from Iowa. In the last 
 eight years, no less than two thousand 
 miles have been constructed in that State, 
 of which more than one thousand have 
 been made in the years 1869 and 1870. 
 The railroads of Iowa are 2,683 miles 
 long, and the gross earnings for the past 
 nine years over $50,000,000. 
 
 MOUTJE I. 
 
 FROM KEOKUK TO MONA. 
 
 Via Burlhiffion & Keokuk Decision ofCIticago, 
 BurUngtim <t- Qtdney Railway; BwrUng- 
 ton, Cedar Rapids & Minnesota Railway, 
 
 mill Joua Division of Illinois Central Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Burlington & Keokuk Di- 
 vision of Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
 Railway. — Keokuk (connects with rail- 
 ways diverging) : Sandusky, 5 miles ; 
 Nashville, 8; Painter Creek, 17; Fort 
 Madison, 24; Weber, 32; Burlington 
 (connects with Burlington & Missouri 
 River and Burlington, Cedar Rapids & 
 Minnesota Railways), 43. 
 
 Stations. — Burlington, Cedar Rapids 
 & Minnesota Railway. — Burlington, 43 
 miles from Keokuk ; Kossuth, 58 ; Wa- 
 pello, 73 ; Columbus Junction (connects 
 with Washington Branch of Chicago, 
 Rock Island & Pacific Railway). 84 ; 
 204 
 
 West Liberty (connects with Chicago, 
 Rock Island & Pacific Railway), 105 ; 
 Morse, 121 ; Cedar Rapids (connects 
 with Iowa Division Chicago & North- 
 western Railway, and with Dubuque 
 Southwestern Railway), 143 ; Vinton, 
 168; Hayden, 189; Waterloo (connects 
 with Iowa Division of Illinois Central 
 Railway), 199. 
 
 Stations. — Iowa Division of Illinois 
 Central Railway. — Waterloo, 199 miles 
 from Keokuk; Janesville, 211; Waver- 
 ley, 217 ; Plainfield, 226 ; Nashua, 234 ; 
 Charles City (connects with Iowa & Da- 
 kota Division of Milwaukee & St. Raul 
 Railway), 245 ; Osage, 262 ; St. Ansgar, 
 271 ; Mona (connects with Austin & 
 Mason City Branch of Iowa Division 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway), 279. 
 
 ALcolcuk. (See page 82.) 
 
 ISnrlingion (43 miles). (Sec page 
 79.) 
 
 "Wapello (73 miles), the capital of 
 Louisa County, on the right bank of the 
 Iowa River, is a flourishing town of about 
 1,500 inhabitants. 
 
 Colnmuns (84 miles) connects 
 with the Washington Branch of the Chi- 
 cago, Rock Island <£■ Pacific Railway. 
 
 "West liberty (105 miles) con- 
 nects with the Chicago, Rock Island <£' 
 Pacifie Railway. (Sec page 78.) 
 
 Cedar ESapitis (143 miles). (See 
 page 73.) 
 
 Vinton (108 miles), the capital of 
 Benton County, is a flourishing village of 
 about 2,000 inhabitants, on the Red Ce- 
 dar River. The State Institution for the 
 Blind is located in this place. 
 
 "Waterloo (199 miles), the capital 
 of Black Hawk County, is a place of 
 about 1,800 inhabitants, on the Red Ce- 
 dar River. It connects with the Iowa 
 Division of the Illinois Central Railway. 
 
 Waverlcy (217 miles), the capital 
 of Bremer County, is a flourishing village 
 of about 2,500 inhabitants, on the Red 
 Cedar River. 
 
 Cnarles City (245 miles), the 
 capital of Floyd County, is a pretty vil- 
 lage on the Cedar River, surrounded by 
 a rich country of rolling prairie. It con- 
 nects with the Iowa & Dakota Division of 
 the Milwaukee til St. Paul Railway. 
 
 Mona (279 miles), on the Bed Cedar 
 River, connects with the Austin ds Mason 
 
Stations.] 
 
 IOWA. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 City Branch of the Iowa Division of the 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 DUBUQUE TO SIOUX CITY. 
 
 Via Iowa Division of Illinois Central Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Dubuque : Julien, 10 miles 
 Peosta, 15 ; Farley (connects with Du 
 buquc Southwestern Railway), 23 
 Earlville, 8*7 ; Manchester, 47 ; Winthrop, 
 til ; Independence, 69; Jesup, 78 ; Ray- 
 mond, 87 ; Waterloo (Branch to Mona 
 connects), 93 ; Cedar Falls and Mona 
 Junction, 98 ; Cedar Fall?, 99 ; New Hart- 
 ford, 109 ; Aplington, 123 ; Ackley (con- 
 nects with Central Railway of Iowa), 132 ; 
 Iowa Falls, 143 ; Williams, 158 ; Webster 
 City, 172; Fort Dodge (connects with 
 Des Moines Valley Railway), 192 ; Man- 
 son, 210; Marvin, 226; Newell, 235; 
 Storm Lake, 245 ; Cherokee, 267 ; Mar- 
 cus, 283 ; Le Mars, 302 ; Sioux City (con- 
 nects with Sioux City Pacific Railway), 
 326. 
 
 Bnbnqne. (See page 161.) 
 
 Farley (23 miles) connects with the 
 Dubuque Southwestern Railway. 
 
 Manchester (47 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing village of 1,500 inhabitants, on the 
 Maquoketa River. 
 
 Waterloo (93 miles). (See page 
 204.) 
 
 Cellar Falls (99 miles) is a flour- 
 ishing manufacturing town of about 
 4,000 inhabitants, on Cedar River. 
 
 Ackley (132 miles) connects with 
 the Central Railway of Iowa. 
 
 Fort jaodgc (192 miles), the cap- 
 ital of Webster County, is a flourishing 
 town of about 2,000 inhabitants, on the 
 Des Moines River, which affords good 
 water-power, and is here about 250 feet 
 wide. The Des Moines Valley Railway 
 connects at this point. 
 
 Cherokee (267 miles), the capital 
 of Cherokee County, is on the Little 
 Sioux River. 
 
 Sioux City (326 miles), on the 
 Missouri River, connects with the Sioux 
 Ci'y Pacific Railway. (See page 178.) 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 DUBUQUE TO CEDAR RAPIDS. 
 Via Dubuque Southwestern. 
 
 Stations. — Dubuque : Farley, 23 miles ; 
 Sand Springs, 37 ; Anamosa, 54 ; Spring- 
 ville, 65 ; Cedar Rapids (connects with 
 Iowa Division of Chicago & Northwestern 
 Railway and Burlington, Cedar Rapids & 
 Minnesota Railway), 79. 
 
 I>ul>u«|ue. (See page 161.) 
 Ccaar ISapius (79 miles). See 
 page 73.) 
 
 ROUTE IT. 
 
 DES MOINES TO FORT DODGE. 
 Via Des Moines Valley Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Des Moines (connects with 
 Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway) : 
 Valley Junction, 8 miles ; Dallas Centre, 
 21; Perry, 34; Grand Junction (connects 
 with Iowa Division of Chicago & North- 
 western Railway), 50 ; Cowrie, 65 ; Sioux 
 City Junction, 72 ; Fort Dodge (connects 
 with Iowa Division of Illinois Central 
 Railway), 78. 
 
 I>es Moines. (See page 78.) 
 
 Grand Junction (50 miles). See 
 page 72.) 
 
 Sioux City (72 miles). (See page 
 178.) 
 
 Fort ©odgc (78 miles). (See page 
 205.) 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 WILTON TO ASHLAND. 
 
 Via Branch of Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Wilton (connects with 
 Maine Line) : Muscatine, 12 miles ; Fre- 
 donia, 31 ; Washington (connects with 
 Stage Lines for Sigourney and Oskaloo- 
 sa), 49 ; Fairfield (connects with Bur- 
 lington & Missouri River Railway), 77 ; 
 Ashland (connects with Des Moines Val- 
 ley Railway), 94. 
 
 "Wilton. (See page 7S.) 
 
 Washington (49 miles) connects 
 with Sigourney and Oskaloosa by stage. 
 
 Fairfield. (77 miles) is an unim- 
 portant village. 
 
 Ashland (94 miles). (Sec page 82.) 
 205 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Austin, 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 COUNCIL BLUFFS TO SIOUX CITY. 
 Via Sioux City & Pacific Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Council Bluffs (connects 
 with all diverging railways) : Missouri 
 Valley Junction (connects with Chi- 
 cago & Northwestern Railway), 21 miles ; 
 California Junction (Fremont & Sioux 
 City Divisions diverge), 27 ; River Sioux, 
 44 ; Onawa, 59 ; Sloan, 75 ; Sioux City 
 (connects with Iowa Division of Illinois 
 Central Railway), 96. 
 
 Council IB I mils. (See page 74.) 
 
 Missouri Valley Junction 
 (21 miles). (See page 74.) 
 
 f^ioux City (96 miles). (Sec page 
 178.) 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 CALMAR TO ALGONA. 
 
 Via Iowa & Dakota Division of Milwaukee e£ 
 St. Paul Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Calmar (connects with 
 Iowa & Minnesota Divisions) : Fort At- 
 kinson, 6 miles ; New Hampton, 27 ; 
 Charles City (connects with Iowa Di- 
 vision of Illinois Central Railway), 47 ; 
 Nora Springs, 65 ; Mason City (connects 
 with Central Railway of Iowa), 75 ; Gar- 
 ner, 95; Algona, 126. 
 
 Calmar, a village of about 1,000 
 inhabitants, connects with the Iowa and 
 Minnesota Divisions. 
 
 Charles City (47 miles). (See 
 page 204.) 
 
 Mason City (75 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Cerro Gordo County, connects with 
 the Central Railway of Iowa. 
 
 Alg'ona (126 miles), the capital of 
 Kossuth County, is on the Dos Moines 
 River. 
 
 RO UTE VIII. 
 
 McGregor, iowa, to Austin Minne- 
 sota. 
 
 Via Ioica & Minnesota Divisions of Milwaukee 
 & St. Paul Railway. 
 
 Stations. — McGregor (connects by Fer- 
 ry with Prairie du Chien) : Postville, 26 
 miles; Ossian, 37; Calmar (connects with 
 Iowa and Dakota Division), 43 miles ; Con- 
 over, 46 ; Cresco, 62 ; Lime Springs, 73 ; 
 Le Roy, 85 ; Austin (connects with Ma- 
 son City & Minnesota Branch), 111. 
 McGregor. (See page 160.) 
 Calmar (43 miles.) (See page 206.) 
 Austin, Minn. (Ill miles), the 
 capital of Mower County, is a village of 
 about 1,000 inhabitants, pleasantly sit- 
 uated on Red Cedar River. 
 
 MICHIGAN". 
 
 MicniGAN embraces two peninsulas, 
 the lower or southern lying between 
 Lake Michigan on the west, and Lakes 
 Huron, St. Clair, and Erie on the east; 
 and the northern, between Lake Supe- 
 rior on the north, and Lakes Michigan 
 and Huron on the south. The northern 
 peninsula is about 320 miles long and 
 130 in its greatest breadth, and the 
 southern 238 miles from north to south, 
 and 200 from east to west. Unitedly, 
 they embrace thirty-five and a half mil- 
 lions of acres. The unique character of 
 the scenery of the upper peninsula of 
 Michigan, and the present easy means 
 of access, promise, in the course of a 
 few years, to make this region one of the 
 206 
 
 most popular summer resorts in the 
 Union. Excepting in portions of its 
 southern boundary, the State is every- 
 where surrounded by the waters of the 
 Great Lakes, insomuch that it has a 
 coast of nearly 1,100 miles. Of this im- 
 mense lake-coast, 350 miles belong to 
 Lake Superior, as much more to Lake 
 Michigan, 300 to Lake Huron, 40 to Lake 
 Erie, and 30 to St. Clair. Besides these 
 grand waters, which encompass the State 
 about like a girdle, there are many beau- 
 tiful ponds scattered over the interior, 
 and bearing thither the picturesque 
 beauty of the shores. The southern 
 peninsula is more interesting in an agri- 
 cultural than in a pictorial point of view. 
 
Michigan.] 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 [Michigan. 
 
 It is in surface notably unvaried — a vast 
 plain, undulating indeed, but not broken 
 by any elevations worthy of mention. It 
 lias, however, peculiar features which 
 will interest the traveller, in its prairie- 
 lands, and that special characteristic of 
 the Western landscape — the Oak Open- 
 ings — a species of natural park meagrely 
 covered with trees. The shores, how- 
 ever, even of this part of Michigan, are 
 often picturesquely varied, with steep 
 banks and bluffs, and shifting sand-hills, 
 reaching, sometimes, a height of 200 feet 
 or more. The romantic portion of the 
 " Lake State " is in the upper peninsula, 
 which is rich in all the features of rugged, 
 rocky coast, of the most fantastic and 
 striking character, in beautiful streams, 
 rapids, and cascades. 
 
 Lake Mlcliij^am, the largest of 
 the great lakes that is wholly included 
 within the United States, is 340 miles in 
 length, from Michigan, Indiana, to the 
 Strait of Mackinaw, and averages about 
 70 miles in breadth. Its surface is about 
 GOO feet above the level of the sea ; the 
 depth is said to be about 900 feet, and 
 its area is estimated to contain 20,000 
 square miles. The shore of the lake is 
 generally low, being formed of limestone, 
 rock, clay, or sand. The waters are 
 gradually receding from the Michigan 
 shore, and encroaching upon that of 
 Wisconsin. Except a few near the north- 
 easterly extremity of the lake, there are 
 no islands in it. During the summer and 
 early autumn months the waters are com- 
 paratively calm and afford safe naviga- 
 tion ; but late in the year, and during 
 the winter and early spring, travel on 
 this and the other great lakes is attend- 
 ed with much risk. Green Bay, which 
 lies principally within the limits of Wis- 
 consin, is the only one of considerable 
 size on Lake Michigan. (See page 219.) 
 The many remarkable objects of interest 
 to the tourist in the lake-region have 
 been fully described in Lake and River 
 Tour No. I., and in other parts of the 
 book. 
 
 The rivers of the State are for the most 
 part small streams, but many of them, 
 particularly those in the mountain dis- 
 tricts of the north, are replete with pleas- 
 ant subjects for the pencil of the artist. 
 
 Michigan is well wooded. The north- 
 
 ern peninsula furnishes white pine, spruce, 
 hemlock, birch, oak, aspen, maple, ash, 
 and elm ; in the south are found the 
 oak-openings already referred to ; the 
 northwest of the lower peninsula is well 
 timbered, the varieties embracing those 
 above enumerated and several others ; 
 indeed, in all parts of the State, timber 
 is more or less abundant. The lumber- 
 trade is an important branch of the 
 industry of Michigan, and is annually 
 increasing in extent. The reports of the 
 lumber business of the Saginaw Valley 
 and Lake Huron shore, for 1870, show 
 that the whole amount of lumber cut 
 in the two districts during the year, 
 amounted to 704,000,000 feet. More 
 than 4,000 men were engaged in the 
 mills, which number 118. Seventy gang 
 saws and 120 circular saws were em- 
 ployed, besides 70 single saws. The 
 quantity of small lumber manufactured 
 was also very great. The following are 
 some of the larger items : Shingles, 
 273,000,000; staves, 11,000,000; lath, 
 61,000,000 ; pickets, 900,000. 
 
 The mineral resources of the State, al- 
 though imperfectly developed, are doubt- 
 less very great. In the northern penin- 
 sula, the copper-mines, occupying a belt 
 of 1 20 miles in length by 2 to 6 in width, 
 are probably the richest in the world. 
 Iron of a very superior quality, and in 
 almost inexhaustible quantities, is met 
 with in various parts of Michigan. There 
 is one belt from 6 to 25 miles wide, ex- 
 tending westward for 150 miles into 
 Wisconsin. Among other minerals, there 
 are lead, gypsum, salt, limestone, marl, 
 and coal. Silver is found in connection 
 with copper, yielding, sometimes, from 
 25 to 50 per cent of the precious metal. 
 Ore from a vein of silver lately opened 
 on the Amethyst, on the shore pf Lake 
 Superior, has been assayed, and yielded 
 at the enormous rate of $5,293 to the 
 ton. Salt is obtained in great abundance 
 in the Saginaw Valley, where 640,000 bar- 
 rels of that article were produced in 1870. 
 
 The Magnetic Spring recently opened 
 on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan is 
 a remarkable discovery, and adds to the 
 list of mineral waters a new kind, said 
 to be more potent than those of Vichy, 
 Kissingen, Congress, Katalysine or Wel- 
 den. It was reached accidentally, by 
 207 
 
Michigan.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [UOLLT. 
 
 men employed in drilling a salt-wall. At 
 the depth of 259 feet, they came to wa- 
 ter of extraordinary properties, holding 
 in solution 400 grains of common salt to 
 the gallon of water, besides the bicar- 
 bonates of soda, lime, iron, manganese, 
 and magnesium, the chlorides of potas- 
 sium, calcium, and magnesium, the bro- 
 mide of magnesium, and traces of silica, 
 alumina, and ammonia. Its magnetic 
 powers are so strong that a pocket-knife 
 left beneath its current for ten minutes 
 will be magnetized to pick up tacks, 
 while its buoyancy, when heated to 90° 
 Fahrenheit, is very remarkable, floating 
 the bather readily. Its medical quali- 
 ties are represented as being of a very 
 remarkable kind. The place where the 
 spring was found is a lumber-depot, 
 which, with the usual rapid growth of 
 Western villages numbered in May, 18*71, 
 nearly 2,000 inhabitants, with five church- 
 es, an academy, and an agricultural hall. 
 One of the peculiarities of Spring Lake 
 City is that acres of its area are built 
 out of sawdust, streets graded from two 
 to four feet deep with this material, and 
 the chief hotel is an old saw-mill trans- 
 formed, with bath-rooms, and nearly every 
 modern appurtenance. 
 
 The population of Michigan in 1860 
 was 749,113. The census returns for 
 1870 foot up as follows : Number of 
 dwellings in the State, 235,687; number 
 of families, 234,725 ; number of voters, 
 268,756; number of inhabitants, 1,184,- 
 638. The total valuation of real estate 
 and personal property is given as $292,- 
 908,809, against §163,553,005 in 1860. 
 
 The first settlements in the State were 
 made at Detroit and Mackinaw, toward 
 the close of the seventeenth century. Af- 
 ter England had dispossessed the French, 
 there arose among the Indian tribes the 
 famous chieftain Pontiac, who availed 
 himself of the opportunity afforded by 
 the outburst of the Revolution, to at- 
 tempt the entire expulsion of the white 
 invaders of his ancestral lands. He 
 planned a general attack upon all the 
 English forts on the lakes, massacred the 
 garrison at Mackinaw, and laid sie^e, 
 for some months, to Detroit. In 1805, 
 Michigan, which, prior to that date, 
 formed part of the Northwest Territory, 
 was formed into a separate Territory. 
 208 
 
 From its contiguity to Canada, Michi- 
 gan was called early into the field in the 
 War of 1812. Detroit was surrendered 
 to the enemy by General Hull, August 
 15th, the fort at Mackinaw having al- 
 ready been captured. A number of 
 American prisoners of war were butch- 
 ered by the Indians at French town on 
 January 22, 1813. The State suffered 
 at this period many trials, until General 
 Harrison at length drove the British into 
 Canada, carrying the war into that coun- 
 try. Detroit was not surrendered to the 
 United States until 1796. Michigan 
 came into the Union as an independent 
 State in the year 1837, and has since 
 rapidly advanced in population, wealth, 
 and production. 
 
 MO UTE I. 
 
 DETROIT TO GRAND HAVEN. 
 
 Via Detroit <£ Milwaukee, Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit (connects with all 
 diverging railways and steamboat lines) : 
 Royal Oak, 13 miles ; Pontiac, 26 ; Davis- 
 burgh, 41 ; Holly (connects with Flint & 
 Pere Marquette Railway), 47 ; Fenton, 50 ; 
 Owosso (connects with Jackson, Lansing 
 & Saginaw Railway), 78 ; Ovid, 88 ; St. 
 John's, 98 ; Muir, 117 ; Ionia (connects 
 with Ionia & Lansing Railway), 124; 
 Grand Rapids (connects with Grand Rap- 
 ids & Indiana, Grand River Valley, and 
 Kalamazoo Division of Michigan Southern 
 Railways), 157; Nunica, 179; Grand Ha- 
 ven (connects with steamers for Milwau- 
 kee and with coasting steamers), 189. 
 
 £>ctroit. (See page 3.) 
 
 H&oyal 0:ilc (13 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing village. 
 
 fi"oiitti;ic (26 miles), the capital of 
 Oakland County, is a flourishing city of 
 about 5,000 inhabitants, on Clinton River. 
 It is a place of active business, and one 
 of the principal wool-markets in the 
 State. The Orchard Lake Gravel Road 
 has been completed from Pontiac beyond 
 Orchard Lake, making a fine drive. 
 
 Holly (47 miles) is the southern ter- 
 minus of the Flint it - J'u-c Marquette Rail- 
 way. 
 
 OWOSSO, or Owasso (78 miles), is 
 built on both sides of the Shiawassee 
 River, which affords a never-failing water- 
 
Ionia.] 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 power, giving movement to several grist, 
 saw, planing and other mills. It is the 
 most important station on the railroad be- 
 tween Detroit and Grand Rapids. It con- 
 nects with the Jackson, Lansing & Saginaw 
 Railway, whose machine-shops are located 
 at this point. Population in 1870, 2,065. 
 
 lonisi (124 miles), the capital of the 
 county of the same name, is on Grand 
 River, about 90 miles from its mouth. 
 The river is navigable as high as the vil- 
 lage in all stages of water, and steamers 
 ply regularly between Ionia and the city 
 of Grand Rapids. The Ionia & Lansing 
 Railway connects here. Population, about 
 2,500. 
 
 diirand Kiaplcls (157 miles), the 
 capital of Kent County, is picturesquely 
 situated, and handsomely built on both 
 banks of the Grand River, by the rapids. 
 It is an active manufacturing place, hav- 
 ing a population of about 5,000. Large 
 steamboats run daily between this place 
 and Grand Haven, where they connect 
 with the lake steamers. Salt and gyp- 
 sum are found in the neighborhood, and 
 there is abundance of limestone, pine-lum- 
 ber, and other building-materials. Grand 
 Rapids connects with the Grand Rapids 
 & Indiana and Grand River Valley Rail- 
 ways, and the Kalamazoo Division of the 
 Michigan Southern Railway. 
 
 Cai*»n«l Haven (189 miles), the 
 capital of Ottawa County, is situated on 
 the southern bank of Grand River, at its 
 entrance into Lake Michigan. The river 
 here is 350 yards wide, from 15 to 30 feet 
 deep, forming a splendid harbor — the best 
 on the eastern shore of the lake — having 
 accommodation for 500 vessels. Grand 
 Haven connects by rail with Muskegon, 
 with steamers for Milwaukee, and with 
 coasting steamers. 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 DETROIT TO ADRIAN. 
 
 Via Detroit Division, of Lake. Shore & Michi- 
 gan /Southern Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit (connects with all 
 diverging railways and steamboat lines) : 
 Wyandotte, 17 miles; Trenton, 20; 
 Brownstown, 26 ; Monroe (branch to To- 
 ledo diverges), 40 ; Dcerfield, 60 ; Adrian 
 (junction with main line), 63. 
 
 !>elr©It. (See page 3.) 
 
 Moaai-oe (40 miles), the capital of 
 Monroe County, is a flourishing place, be- 
 ing the principal market for the wheat 
 produced in several adjoining counties, 
 and having extensive manufactories of 
 wool, flour, lumber, and leather. It was 
 settled by the French about 1776, but 
 the present town has been mostly built 
 since 1835. Monroe contains many hand- 
 some buildings ; its court-house, built of 
 hewn stone, cost $35,000. The city is 
 situated on both sides of the Raisin River, 
 two miles from its entrance into Lake Erie, 
 with which it connects by a ship-canal. 
 Population in 1870, 5,086. 
 
 'iaai (63 miles). (See page 20.) 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 DETROIT TO PORT HURON. 
 
 Via Detroit Division, Grand Trunk Railway 
 of Canada. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit (connects with all 
 diverging railways and with lake and riv- 
 er steamers) : Mount Clemens, 25 miles ; 
 Ridgeway (connects with Michigan Air 
 Line Railway), 41 ; Port Huron (connects, 
 by ferry to Sarnia, with Grand Trunk and 
 Great Western Railways of Canada), 62. 
 
 Uetroit. (Sec page 3.) 
 
 MIosiiat Clemens (25 miles) is sit- 
 uated on the left bank of Clinton River, six 
 miles from its entrance into Lake St. Clair, 
 at the head of steam navigation. It is 
 quite a busy little place, among other in- 
 dustries engaging in ship-building. Steam- 
 boats ply daily between Mount Clemens 
 and Detroit. 
 
 ESid.g'eway ( 41 miles ) connects 
 with the Michigan Air Line Railway. 
 
 Port lEsarosi (62 miles). (See 
 page 139.) 
 
 MOUTE IV. 
 
 DETROIT TO BAY CITY. 
 
 Via Detroit & Milwaukee and Flint <£ Pere 
 Marquette Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit & Milwaukee Rail- 
 way. — Detroit (connects with all diverging 
 railway aud steamboat lines) : Royal Oak, 
 13 miles; Pontiac, 26 ; Davisburg, 41; 
 209 
 
Flint.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Greenville. 
 
 Holly (connects with Flint & Pore Mar- 
 quette Railway), 47. 
 
 Stations. — Flint d' Fere Marquette 
 Railway. — Holly, 47 miles from Detroit ; 
 Grand Blanc, 56 ; Flint, 64 ; Mount Mor- 
 ris, 70; Fine Run, 75; Birch Run, 81; 
 Bridgeport, 95 ; East Saginaw (connects 
 with Northern and Western Divisions), 
 98 ; Portsmouth, 107 ; Bay City (connects 
 with steamers for ports on Lake Huron), 
 111. 
 
 The route from Detroit to Holly has 
 been described under Route I. of Michi- 
 gan. 
 
 Flint (64 miles), the capital of Gen- 
 esee County, is prettily situated on Flint 
 River, which furnishes an extensive wa- 
 ter-power, and in the midst of a fertile 
 country. The Michigan Asylum for the 
 Deaf and Dumb and Blind, at this place, 
 is a handsome building. Population in 
 1870, 5,395. 
 
 East Saginaw (98 miles), a town 
 on the right bank of the Saginaw River, 
 has several steam saw-mills. 
 
 fi B or4smoiitli(107 miles) saws and 
 exports large quantities of pine-lumber. 
 
 Itay City (111* miles), the capital 
 of Bay County, is a very prosperous town 
 on the eastern bank of the Saginaw River, 
 doing a large pine-lumber shipping-trade. 
 Population in 1860, 1,583 ; in 1870, 6,984. 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 WENONA, MIC IT., TO FORT WAYNE, 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Via Jackson, Lansing & Saginaw, and Fort 
 Wayne, Jackson & Saginaw Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Jackson, Lansing & Sagi- 
 naw Railway. — Weuona : East Saginaw, 
 13 miles; Saginaw City (connects with 
 Flint & Pere Marquette Railway), 15; St. 
 Charles, 29 ; Oakley, 40 ; Owasso (con- 
 nects with Detroit & Milwaukee Rail- 
 way), 51 ; Laingsburg, 63 ; Lansing (con- 
 nects with Ionia & Lansing and Penin- 
 sular Railways), 79; Mason, 91; Rives 
 Junction (connects with Grand River 
 Valley Railway), 105 ; Jackson (connects 
 with diverging railways), 116. 
 
 Stations. — Fort Wayne, Jackson &• 
 
 Saginaw Railway. — Jackson, 116 miles 
 
 fromWenona; Hanover, 130; Jonesville 
 
 (connects with Adrian Division Lake 
 
 210 
 
 Shore & Michigan Southern Railway), 
 141; Reading, 152, Fremont, 166; An- 
 gola, 174; Waterloo (connects with Main 
 Line Lake Shore & Michigan Southern 
 Railway), 188; Stiner's, 204; Fort 
 Wayne (connects with diverging rail- 
 ways), 216. 
 
 East §agimaw (13 miles). (See 
 page 210.) 
 
 Saginaw City (15 miles), the 
 capital of Saginaw County, does a large 
 export business in salt and lumber. It 
 is on the left bank of the river of the 
 same name, 22 miles from its mcuth. 
 The town is picturesquely situated, com- 
 manding a fine view of the stream. The 
 Saginaw River is navigable for vessels 
 drawing ten feet of water. Its branches 
 unite four miles above the town, con- 
 verging toward it from all the cardinal 
 points. Population in 1870, 11,350. 
 
 Owosso (51 miles). (Seepage 208.) 
 
 Jackson (116 miles). (See page 
 5.) 
 
 •Boncsville (141 miles). (See page 
 21.) 
 
 Waterloo (188 miles) is a village 
 on Portage Creek, of about 2,000 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 Fort Wayne (216 miles). (See 
 page 24.) 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 LANSING TO GREENVILLE. 
 Via Ionia <& Lansing Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Lansing (connects Jack- 
 son, Lansing & Saginaw, Fort Wayne, 
 Jackson & Saginaw, and Peninsular Rail- 
 ways) : North Lansing, 1 mile ; Delta, 
 8; Daniells, 10; Grand Ledge, 13; Eagle, 
 17; Danby, 21; Portland, 24; Steb- 
 binsville, 28 ; Lyons, 32 ; Ionia (con- 
 nects with Detroit & Milwaukee Rail- 
 way), 37 ; Orleans, 46 ; Greenville, 57. 
 
 ^Lansing,-, the capital of Michigan, 
 is on Grand River, which affords good 
 water-power to several fiouring-mills and 
 factories. The Slate-house, which is SO 
 feet above the level of the river, is a large 
 and handsome building. Population about 
 6,000. (See also Stations above.) 
 
 Ionia (37 miles.) (See page 209.) 
 
Stations.] 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 [Allegan. 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 LANSING TC BATTLE CREEK AND 
 CLIMAX. 
 
 Via Peninsular Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Lansing (connects with di- 
 verging railways) : Charlotte (connects 
 with Grand River Valley Division of 
 Michigan Central Railway), 19 miles; 
 Bellevue, 32 ; Battle Creek (connects with 
 Main Line of Michigan Central Railway, 
 45 ; Climax, 55. 
 
 ILaMsing'. (See page 210.) 
 
 Charlotte (19 miles), the capital 
 of Eaton County, connects with the 
 Grand River Valley Division of Michigan 
 Central Railway. 
 
 IBattle Creels (45 miles). (See page 
 6.) 
 
 Climax (55 miles) is a township of 
 Kalamazoo County. 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 JACKSON TO WHITEHALL. 
 
 Via Grand River Valley Division of Michi- 
 gan Central Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Jackson (connects with 
 railways diverging) : Rives Junction 
 (connects with Jackson, Lansing & Sagi- 
 naw Railway), 11 miles; Onondaga, 18; 
 Eaton Rapids, 24; Charlotte (connects 
 with Peninsular Railway), 35 ; Vermont- 
 ville, 46; Nashville, 50; Hastings, 62; 
 Middleville, 74 ; Gaines, 85 ; Grand Rap- 
 ids (connects with Detroit & Milwaukee, 
 Grand Rapids & Indiana, and Kalamazoo 
 Division of Lake Shore & Michigan 
 Southern Railways), 94; Nunica, 117; 
 Muskegon, 133; Whitehall, 149. 
 
 .S:i<'2ts»i9. (See page 5.) 
 
 CBaarlotte (35 miles). (See page 
 211.) 
 
 Mitldlleville (74 miles) is a village 
 on Thornapple River. 
 
 Ctramd. Rapids (94 miles). (See 
 page 209.) 
 
 Msiskeg'on (133 m'.Ies), the capital 
 of Muskegon County, is on a river of the 
 same name, five miles from Lake Michi- 
 gan. Population in 1870, 6,092. 
 
 WBaiSelliall (149 miles) is the pres- 
 ent terminus of the road. 
 
 ROUTE IX. 
 
 PARIS, MICK., TO FORT WAYNE, IXD. 
 
 Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Paris : Big Rapids, 4 miles ; 
 Morley, 20; Howard City, 27; Cedar 
 Springs, 40 ; Rockford, 47 ; Grand Rap- 
 ids (connects with Detroit & Milwaukee 
 Railway, Grand River Valley Division of 
 Michigan Central, and Kalamazoo Divis- 
 ion of Lake Shore & Michigan Southern 
 Railway), 60 ; Bradley, 85 ; Kalamazoo 
 (connects with Main Line and South 
 Haven Division of Michigan Central Rail- 
 way), 109 ; Mendon, 130 ; Sturgis, 145 ; 
 Kendallville, 174 ; Fort Wayne (con- 
 nects with railways diverging), 202. 
 
 l*aris is a village four miles above 
 Big Rapids, which is on the Muskegon 
 River. 
 
 Wrsmd I6apl«ls (60 miles). (See 
 page 209.) 
 
 Maiamazoo (109 miles). (/Seepage 
 6.) 
 
 I&entlallville (174 miles). (See 
 page 22.) 
 
 Fort Wayne (202 miles). (See 
 page 24.) 
 
 II O UTE X. 
 
 WHITE PIGEON TO GRAND RAPIDS. 
 
 Via Kalamazoo Division of Lake Shore & 
 Michigan Southern Railway. 
 
 Stations. — White Pigeon (connects 
 with Main Line) : Constantine, 4 miles ; 
 Three Rivers, 14 ; Schoolcraft, 24 ; Kala- 
 mazoo (connects with Main Line and 
 South Haven Division of Michigan South- 
 ern Railway, and with Grand Rapids & 
 Indiana Railway), 38 ; Silver Creek, 47 ; 
 Allegan (connects with Michigan Lake 
 Shore Railway), 63 ; Dorr, 78 ; Grand 
 Rapids (connects with railways diverg- 
 ing), 96. 
 
 Wnite IPigeon. (See page 21.) 
 
 Kalamazoo (38 miles). (See page 
 6.) 
 
 Allegan (63 miles), the capital of 
 the county of the same name, is situated 
 on both sides of the Kalamazoo River, 
 at the head of navigation for small boats. 
 It has an active trade, lumber being tte 
 chief article of export. The river is 
 crossed by a bridge at this point. 
 211 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Wisconsin 
 
 Grand JKiajsikls (96 miles). (Sec 
 page 209.) 
 
 12 O UTE XI. 
 
 ALLEGAN TO MUSKEGON. 
 Via Michigan Lake Shore Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Allegan (connects with 
 Kalamazoo Division of Lake Shore & 
 Michigan Southern Railway) : Rabbit 
 River, 13 miles; Holland, '23 ; Grand 
 Haven (connects with Detroit & Mil- 
 waukee Railway), 43 ; Muskegon, 57. 
 
 AUcg'nn. (See page 211.) 
 
 Grand Haven (43 miles). (See 
 page 2U9.) 
 
 Tlnskcgoa (57 miles). (See page 
 211.) 
 
 H O UTE XII. 
 
 KALAMAZOO TO SOUTH HAVEN. 
 
 Via South Haven Branch of Michigan Central 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Kalamazoo (connects with 
 Main Line and with Kalamazoo Division 
 of Lake Shore & Michigan Southern 
 Railway, and Grand Rapids & Indiana 
 Railway): Kendall's, 15 miles; Bloom- 
 ingdale, 23 ; Geneva, 32 ; South Dlaven. 
 Malaiuazoo. (See page 6.) 
 SontSi Havea is a village on 
 Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Black 
 River. 
 
 M O UTE XIII. 
 
 TOLEDO, OHIO, TO JACKSON, MICH. 
 
 Via Adrian and Jackson Division,? of Lake 
 Shore & Michigan Southern Railway. 
 Stations. — Toledo (connects with di- 
 verging railways): Sylvania, 10 miles; 
 Palmyra, 27 ; Adrian (connects with De- 
 troit and Jackson Divisions), 33 ; Te- 
 
 cumseh, 46 ; Norvell, 65 ; Jackson (con- 
 nects with diverging railways), 79. 
 
 The route from Toledo to Adrian has 
 been described in Through Route No. 
 II. 
 
 •Haclkson (79 miles). (See page 
 5.) 
 
 12 O UTE XI r. 
 
 DETROIT TO ROMEO. 
 
 Via Detroit Division of Gran'] Trunk R,til- 
 way of Canada, and Michigan, Air Line 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Detroit : Mount Clemens, 
 25 miles; Ridgeway, 41; Armada, 49; 
 Romeo, 57. 
 
 The route from Detroit to Ridgeway 
 is described in Route III. of Michigan. 
 
 ISobbbco (57 miles) is a thriving vil- 
 lage, of about 2,000 inhabitants. 
 
 12 O U T E XV. 
 
 NEW BUFFALO TO BREEDSVILLE 
 
 Via Chicago & Michigan Lake Shore Rail 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — New Buffalo: Morris, 16 
 miles ; St. Joseph, 27 ; Breedsville (con- 
 nects with South Haven Division of Michi- 
 gan Central Railway), 57. 
 
 New ISuflalo. (See page 6.) 
 
 St. Joseph (27 miles) connects 
 with the South Haven, Division of Michi- 
 gan Central Railway. It is on Lake 
 Michigan, at the mouth of St. Joseph's 
 River, which is crossed at this place by 
 a bridge costing $15,000. St. Joseph 
 has an active trade in lumber and fruit, 
 of which it ships large quantities to 
 Chicago. 
 
 ISreeusville (57 miles) is a vil- 
 lage in Van Buren County. 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 Wisconsin was formed into a Territory 
 in 1836, and came into the Union as late 
 as 1848, though the country was visited, 
 as was all the wilderness of which it was 
 then a part, by the French missionaries 
 two centuries ago. It is bounded on the 
 north by Minnesota, part of Michigan, 
 212 
 
 and Lake Superior ; on the east by Lake 
 Michigan ; on the south by Illinois, and 
 on the west by Iowa and Minnesota. It 
 is 285 miles long and 250 broad, and em- 
 braces an area of 53,921 square miles, 
 or thirty-four and a half millions of acres. 
 The topographical aspect of Wisconsin 
 
Wisconsin.] 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 [Wisconsin River. 
 
 is very similar to that of other portions 
 of the Northwest section of the Union, 
 presenting, for the most part, grand 
 stretches of elevated prairie-land, some- 
 times 1,000 feet higher than the level of 
 the sea. Though there are no mountains 
 in this State, there are the characteristic 
 plateau ridges of the latitude, formed by 
 depressions, which drain the waters, and 
 afford beds for the rivers and lakes. The 
 descent of the land toward Lake Superior 
 is very sudden, and the streams are full 
 of falls and rapids. 
 
 The Blue Mounds are in Dane County. 
 The most elevated rises nearlv 1,200 
 feet above the waters of the Wisconsin 
 lliver. 
 
 The forest scenery, and the ever-wel- 
 come oak openings — the oases of the 
 prairie — will be among the gratifications 
 of the Nature-loving tourist in Wisconsin. 
 The hunter may indulge his passion for 
 the chase at will, whether he aspire to 
 the wild-game of the wilderness, or to the 
 gentler sports by the brook-side. 
 
 Wisconsin is rich in minerals, espe- 
 cially in that of iron, which in the Lake 
 Superior region and in other parts is 
 found in great abundance, and of the 
 richest kind. Lead of excellent quality, 
 intermingled with copper and zinc, and 
 some silver, is very plentiful in the south- 
 west part of the State. Copper, magnet- 
 ic iron, iron pyrites, and plumbago, exist 
 in large quantities. On the Michigamig 
 and Menomonee Rivers beautiful marbles 
 are found. The prevailing color is a 
 light pink, traversed by seams of deep 
 red ; but some are blue and dark-colored, 
 handsomely veined, these latter being 
 susceptible of a very fine polish. 
 
 There is no lack of timber in the State. 
 On the Upper Wisconsin, the Wolf River, 
 and the tributaries of the Mississippi, 
 north of the Wisconsin, there are dense 
 forests of pine. The other forest-trees 
 are spruce, tamarac, cedar, various kinds 
 of oak, birch, aspen, basswood, hickory, 
 elm, ash, hemlock, poplar, sycamore, and 
 sugar-maple We have already spoken of 
 the oak openings. 
 
 The climate is rather severe in winter, 
 but it is generally salubrious and bra- 
 cing. 
 
 The State i3 divided into 58 counties, 
 and contained a population in 1860 of 
 
 7*75, SSI, of whom 1,171 were negroes, and 
 1,014 Indians. The entire population of 
 the State is given in the census of 1870 
 as 1,055,167. The real estate and per- 
 sonal property returns for 1870 are 
 $333,447,566, against $156,226,169 in 
 1860. The increase in the manufacturing 
 industry of Wisconsin during the last de- 
 cade is very great, the number of estab- 
 lishments in 1860 being 3,063, with 15,414 
 hands employed, and products valued at 
 $27,849,467 ; while in 1870 there are re- 
 ported 7,136 establishments, with 30,055 
 hands and products valued at $85,625,966, 
 showing an increase in establishments of 
 4,072, of hands of 23,641, and of prod- 
 ucts of $57,775,499. 
 
 LAKES, EITEES, ETC. 
 
 The waters of Lake Superior and Lake 
 Michigan wash the northern and eastern 
 boundaries of Wisconsin, and numberless 
 lesser waters are scattered through the 
 interior, and more abundantly over the 
 northwestern counties. The shores of 
 these lakes abound in rich forest growth 
 and in rocky precipice, affording numer- 
 ous picturesque views. The waters are 
 clear, and full of delicious fish. 
 
 K<al£e WiMieH>»g , o, the largest 
 of the interior waters of Wisconsin, lies 
 southeast of the middle of the State. Its 
 length is about 28 miles, with a width 
 of 10 miles. The Fox or Neenah River 
 unites with Green Bay, an arm of Lake 
 Michigan. A singular rocky wall which 
 might, in its regular formation, easily be 
 supposed the work of art, instead of Na- 
 ture, follows the eastern shore of Win- 
 nebago Lake for 15 miles. This wall rises 
 through all its extent about five feet 
 above the surface of the water, and sinks 
 in places hundreds of feet below. Steam- 
 boats navigate the lake. (Sec Oshkosh, 
 page 219.) 
 
 TTBie Mississippi BSivcr forms 
 much of the western boundary of Wis- 
 consin, separating it from Iowa and Min- 
 nesota, with which States it thus shares 
 the charming scenery of this portion of 
 the great river. (See Lake and River 
 Tour No. II.) 
 
 Tlie "Wisconsin JSiver, the 
 
 largest stream in the State, rises in a 
 
 small lake called Vieux Desert, on the 
 
 northern boundary, and flows south- 
 
 213 
 
St. Loma River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Racine. 
 
 westerly 600 miles to the Mississippi at 
 Prairie da Chien. Shifting sand-bars ob- 
 struct the navigation very much, yet 
 steamboats ascend as high as Portage 
 Uity, 200 miles distant, by the windings 
 of the river. At Portage City a ship- 
 canal conducts small steamers to the 
 waters of the Neenah or Fox River (the 
 outlet of Lake Winnebago), by which 
 the navigation is continued through the 
 State, from the Mississippi to Lake 
 Michigan. 
 
 The Wisconsin River presents many 
 beautiful pictures to the eye of the travel- 
 ler. The remarkable passage called the 
 Grandfather Bull Falls, where the waters 
 break through a bold gorge a mile and 
 a half in length, and flanked on either 
 hand with rugged walls 150 feet in height, 
 is well worth visiting. Some fine 
 chalybeate springs add to the attractions 
 of this charming spot, and promise to 
 make it before long a favorite summer 
 resort. 
 
 Petenwell Peak, on the Wisconsin, 60 
 miles below Grandfather Bull Falls, is a 
 singular oval massive rock, 900 feet in 
 length aud 300 wide, with an elevation 
 above the surrounding country of 200 
 feet. The summit for 70 feet is perpen- 
 dicular, and the rocks in their fantastic 
 groupings assume the most wonderful 
 architectural appearances, almost per- 
 suading the voyager that he is trans- 
 ported back to feudal ages, and is pass- 
 ing through a barbaric laud of castled 
 and battleraented heights. 
 
 Fortification Rock is another interesting 
 point, a few miles below Petenwell Peak. 
 The cliff's here have a vertical elevation of 
 100 feet. At the Dalles of the Wisconsin 
 the water passes for about six miles be- 
 tween hills of solid rock, in height from 
 30 to 100 feet. The smallest width of 
 the river here is 55 feet. 
 
 'flic St. ILoiais Stiver, which 
 forms part of the boundary between 
 Minnesota and Wisconsin, is the original 
 source of the St. Lawrence, and is re- 
 markable for a series of bold rapids, 
 called the Falls of St. Louis. (See Lake 
 and River Tour No. I.) 
 
 The antiquary, no less than the lover 
 
 of natural beauty, may find in this State 
 
 sources of pleasure, in objects scarcely 
 
 less strange than the mystical relics of 
 
 211 
 
 the Old World. Scattered everywhere 
 over the plains of Wisconsin, are singular 
 structures of earth, known generally as 
 " Mounds." At Prairicville, there is one 
 of these weird works, 56 feet in length, 
 which has the resemblance of a turtle ; 
 near the Blue Mounds is another, 120 feet 
 in length, representing a man in a recum- 
 bent attitude ; near Cassville yet another 
 of these eccentric labors has been found, 
 made in the image of the extinct masto- 
 don. At Aztalan, in Jefferson County, 
 there is an old fortification 550 yards in 
 length, and 275 wide. The walls are from 
 4 to 5 feet high, and more than 20 feet 
 thick. 
 
 MO UTE I. 
 
 CniCAGO, ILL., TO MILWAUKEE. 
 
 Via Milwaukee Division Chicago & North 
 western, Itailway 
 
 Stations. — Chicago : Ravenswood, 6 
 miles from Chicago ; Evanston, 12; Glen- 
 coe, 19 ; Highland Park, 23 ; Lake Forest, 
 28 ; Waukegan, 36 ; State Line, 45 ; Ke- 
 nosha (connects with Kenosha Division), 
 51 ; Racine Junction, 60; Racine (connects 
 with Western Union Railway), 62 ; Coun- 
 ty Line, 70 ; Oak Creek, 75 ; Milwaukee 
 (connects with Milwaukee & St. Paul Rail- 
 way), 85. 
 
 As far as Kenosha this road has been 
 described as Route VI. of Illinois. (See 
 page 199.) 
 
 SCacinc (62 miles), the capital of the 
 county of the same name, the second city 
 of the State in population and commerce, 
 is beautifully situated at the mouth of 
 Root River, on the western shore of Lake 
 Michigan, on a plain about 40 feet above 
 the surface of the waters. It has one of 
 the best harbors on the lake. The city 
 is handsomely laid out in wide and well- 
 built streets, on which are numerous fine 
 public buildings, large warehouses, manu- 
 factories, and retail stores. Racine Col- 
 lege, founded by the Episcopal Church, is 
 one of the most prominent educational 
 institutes of the West. The city has also 
 a large high-school brick building, and 
 several commodious school-houses, throe 
 of which are of brick. The railway-ear and 
 machine-shops at Racine give employ- 
 ment to a large number of persons. The 
 Western Union Railway connects at this 
 
Milwaukee.] 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 [Milwaukee. 
 
 point. Racine was settled in 1835; in- 
 corporated as a city in 1848. Population 
 in 18G0, 7,822 ; in 18*70, about 15,000. 
 
 Milwaukee (85 miles), the com- 
 mercial capital of Wisconsin, and, next 
 to Chicago, the largest city in the North- 
 west, is pleasantly situated on the west 
 shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
 the Milwaukee River. This river flows 
 through the town, and with the Heuomo- 
 nee, with which it forms a junction, di- 
 vides it into three nearly equal districts, 
 which are severally known as the East, 
 West, and South Divisions. The town 
 lies upon the river-flats, and upon the 
 bluffs which overlook the lake. The Mil- 
 waukee River is navigable for the largest 
 class of lake-vessels for two miles from 
 its mouth, and forms one of the best har- 
 bors on the entire northwestern lake 
 coast. Nearly half a million dollars have 
 been expended in its protection and im- 
 provement. The peculiar color of the 
 " Milwaukee brick," of which many of the 
 buildings are made, gives the city a very 
 unique and pretty appearance, and has 
 earned for it the name of the " Cream 
 City "of the lakes. Four steam brick- 
 mills are in constant operation. In 
 growth, this city of promise has kept 
 pace with the rapid progress characteris- 
 tic of the region. It was settled in 1835, 
 incorporated in 1846, had a population in 
 1840 of 1,751 ; in 1850, of 20,061 ; in 
 1860, 45,246. Its population in 1870 
 was 71,499. There are about 60 church 
 buildings of various denominations here, 
 and numerous excellent literary institu- 
 tions and schools. One of the most promi- 
 nent church edifices is the Catholic Cathe- 
 dral of St. John. The new Baptist church, 
 also a handsome structure, was built at a 
 cost of $35,000. The city, which em- 
 braces an area of 17 miles square, is di- 
 vided into nine wards, and contains about 
 160 streets, and upward of 14,000 dwell- 
 ings, over 2,000 of which have been erect- 
 ed since 1865. It is well lighted and 
 paved. East Water and Spring Streets 
 are very wide, handsome thoroughfares. 
 
 Among the principal hotels may be men- 
 tioned the Plankinton House, well kept by 
 W. H. Cottrell, the Newhall House, the 
 Walker House, and the Juneau House, the 
 two latter in Water Street, convenient to 
 the business portion of the city. 
 
 Among the prominent public buildings 
 are the United Slates Cuetom-House, which 
 also embraces the Post-Oliice and United 
 States courts. It is of Athens stone, and 
 stands on the corner of Wisconsin and 
 Milwaukee Streets. There are several 
 banking-houses, some of which are fine 
 buildings. The Music Hall is a hand- 
 some apartment, with sittings for 2,300 
 persons. It was erected in 1 864, at a cost 
 of $65,000, and is owned by the Ger- 
 man Musical Society. The theatre build- 
 ing known as the Academy of Music has 
 800 sittings. Besides these places of pub- 
 lic resort, the city contains 15 halls and 
 public assembly-rooms. 
 
 The Germans constitute nearly one-half 
 of the entire popidation, and their influ- 
 ence upon the social life of the inhabit- 
 ants is everywhere seen. Breweries and 
 lager-bier saloons, gardens, gasthausen, 
 music-halls, and restaurants, abound. 
 There are several large distilleries and 
 breweries. The consumption of lager, 
 for which Milwaukee is now so famous 
 throughout the whole West, is estimated 
 at upward of 1,000,000 gallons annually. 
 Twenty-five firms are engaged in its manu- 
 facture, and the aggregate annual product 
 is 2,600,000 gallons. 
 
 The Milwaukee river has been dammed, 
 and affords fine manufacturing facilities. 
 Among the more prominent industrial es- 
 tablishments are the flouring-mills. That 
 of Betschey & Kern, built at a cost of 
 $150,000, has a capacity for making 
 1,000 barrels of flour daily, and is well 
 worth visiting, as is also the grain-eleva- 
 tor of the Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway . 
 This immense structure has a storage ca- 
 pacity of 1,500,000 bushels of wheat, and 
 is one of the largest on the continent. 
 Upward of 13,250,000 bushels of wheat, 
 largely the product of the State, were ex- 
 ported either in bulk or in flour in 1865. 
 The total storage capacity of the grain-ele- 
 vators is estimated at 5,000,000 bushels. 
 One of the largest rolling-mills in the 
 West, that constructed by E. B. Ward, 
 at a cost of $300,000, is in this city. 
 
 Milwaukee of late years has become a 
 great railway centre. It connects with 
 the La Crosse, the Sun Prairie & Madi- 
 son, the Prairie du Chien, and the 
 Northern Divisions of the Milwaukee 6s 
 St. Paul Railway, which embraces some 
 215 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Madison. 
 
 of the principal railway lines in Wis- 
 consin, Minnesota, and Northern Iowa, 
 viz. : 
 
 MII.KS. 
 
 Milwaukee to La Crosse 196 
 
 Milwaukee to Prairie du Chieu 193 
 
 Milwaukee to Portage 95 
 
 North McGregor to St. Paul 212 
 
 Horicon to Berlin and Wiimeconne 53 
 
 Watertown to Madison 26 
 
 Milton to Monroe 42 
 
 Calmar to Algona 126 
 
 Other Branches 59 
 
 Total 1,018 
 
 Milwaukee connects by daily lines of 
 lake steamers with the west side ports, 
 the Lower Lakes, east side ports, Detroit 
 &i Milwaukee Railway, and Chicago. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 MILWAUKEE TO PRAIRIE DU CIIIEX. 
 
 Via Prairie Du Chien Division, of Milwaukee 
 «£• St. Paul Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Milwaukee (connects with 
 lake steamers and with diverging rail- 
 ways) : Brookfield Junction (connects 
 with La Crosse Division), 14 miles ; 
 Waukesha, 20 ; Eagle, 36 ; Palmyra, 
 42; Whitewater, 50; Milton, 62; Mil- 
 ton Junction (connects with Wisconsin 
 Division of Chicago & Northwestern 
 Railway), 63 ; Edgerton, TO ; Stough- 
 ton, 80 ; Madison (connects with Madi- 
 son Division of Chicago & Northwest- 
 ern Railway and with Sun Prairie & 
 Madison Branch), 95; Mazomaine, 118; 
 Spring Green, 132; Avoca, 145; Mus- 
 coda, 151; Boscobel, 165; Prairie du 
 Chien (connects by ferry with Wisconsin 
 Division at North McGregor and with 
 river steamers), 193. 
 
 Milwaukee. (&cc page 215.) 
 
 ISrookticlu Junction (14 
 miles) connects with La Crosse Division 
 of the Milwaukee <£• St. Paul Railway. 
 
 "Waukesha (20 miles), formerly 
 Prairieville, the capital of Waukesha 
 County, is on the Pishtaka, or Fox River, 
 situated on the edge of a beautiful prai- 
 rie. The court-house and jail are built 
 of a superior quality of limestone, found 
 in abundance in the immediate neighbor- 
 hood. Population, about 3,000. 
 
 Whitewater (50 miles), situated 
 in the midst of a rich farming country, 
 is a thriving village. It manufactures 
 210 
 
 cultivators, ploughs, chairs, stoves, etc. 
 Population, about 3,000. 
 
 Milton J unction (03 miles) 
 connects with the Wisconsin Division of 
 the Chicago & Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Madison (95 miles), the capital of 
 the State, and of Dane County, is one of 
 the most beautiful and attractive toAvns 
 in the Northwest. It is situated in the 
 centre of a broad valley, enclosed by 
 high grounds, occupying an isthmus be- 
 tween the Third and Fourth (Mendota) 
 Lake. Mendota or Fourth Lake, upon 
 the upper side of the city, is about six 
 miles by four miles in area. The Third 
 Lake is somewhat smaller ; both arc 
 exceedingly picturesque waters, deep 
 enough for steamboat navigation. The 
 city lies in the very heart of the " Four 
 Lake Country," which may be regarded 
 as the Westmoreland of the New World. 
 The lakes are severally known as Men- 
 dota, Menona, Waubcsa, Yuhara, and 
 Peshnc/o. Except a log-cabin, there was 
 not a single structure upon the site of 
 Madison, when it was selected in 1836 for 
 the capital of the State ; yet in 1860 the 
 population reached 9,068, and at present 
 it is about 16,000. The streets of this 
 beautiful city drop down pleasantly tow- 
 ard the shores of the surrounding lakes. 
 Madison perhaps combines and overlooks 
 more charming and diversified scenery 
 than any other town in the West, or than 
 any other State capital in the Union. Its 
 high lakes, fresh groves, rippling rivulets, 
 shady dales, and flowery meadow lawns, 
 are commingled in greater profusion, and 
 disposed in more picturesque order, than 
 we have ever elsewhere beheld. The 
 Capitol cost $150,000 to build. It is a 
 limestone edifice, situated in the centre 
 of a public park of 14 acres, TO feet 
 above the level of the lakes. This site, 
 being the highest land between Lakes 
 Mendota and Menona, commands some 
 fine views. The University of Wisconsin, 
 founded in 1849, occupies an eminence 
 (College Hill) a mile west of the capitol, 
 and 125 feet above the lakes. The State 
 Historical Society and the State Lunatic 
 Asylum are located here. The Court- 
 House and Jail occupy the southern cor- 
 ner of the public Bquare. 
 
 Madison connects with the Madison 
 Division of the Chicago A Nwthmsiem 
 
BOSCOBEL.] 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 Railway, and with the Sun Pra'irk & 
 Madison Branch. 
 
 Boscolbel (165 miles) is a thriving 
 village on the left bank of the Wisconsin 
 River. 
 
 IPrairie «lia CSaaesi (193 miles). 
 (Sue page 160.) 
 
 MO UTE III. 
 
 MIL WA UKEE TO LA CROSSE AND 
 HUDSON. 
 
 Via La Crosse Division of Milwaukee & St. 
 Paul Railway and tlie West Wisconsin Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — Milwaukee (connects with 
 lake steamers and railways diverging) : 
 Elm Grove, 9 miles; Brookfield (junc- 
 tion with Prairie du Chien Division), 13 ; 
 Pewaukee, 19; Hartland, 23 ; Nashotah, 
 26 ; Oconomowoc, 31 ; Ixonia, 37 ; Water- 
 town, 43 ; Watertown Junction (crossing 
 of the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago 
 & Northwestern Railway), 44 ; Richwood, 
 49; Lowell, 54; Elba, 59; Columbus, 
 63; Fall River, 67; Otsego, 73 ; Rio, 77; 
 Wyocena, 82 ; Portage City (junction of 
 the Northern Division), 91 ; Lewiston, 
 100; Kilbourn City, 105; Lyndon, 112; 
 Lemonweir, 124 ; Mauston, 127; Lisbon, 
 132; Orange, 138; Le Roy, 147; Toraah 
 (connects with the West Wisconsin Divis- 
 ion), 153; Greenfield, 156; Lafayette, 
 163; Sparta, 170; Herseyville, 174; 
 Bangor, 180 ; West Salem, 184 ; La 
 Crosse (connects with Southern Min- 
 nesota Railway, and with steamers on 
 the river), 195. 
 
 Stations. — West Wisconsin Railway. — 
 Tomah, 153 miles; Black River Falls, 185; 
 Wright's, 194; Augusta, 219 ; Eau Claire, 
 241 ; Menomonee, 264 ; Hudson, 309 ; St. 
 Taul, Minn., 328. 
 
 BSrookJield (13 miles) connects 
 with the Prairie da. Chien Division. 
 
 Watertown (43 miles) is on the 
 Wisconsin River. It connects with the 
 Wisconsin Division of the Chicago & 
 Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Coluiu1>us (63 miles) is a village 
 of about 2,000 inhabitants, on the Craw- 
 fish River. 
 
 I*ortag;e City (91 miles), the 
 
 capital of Columbia County, occupies 
 
 the site of old Fort Washington, on the 
 
 ship-canal connecting the Wisconsin and 
 
 10 
 
 Fox Rivers at the noted Winnebago 
 Portage. It is at the head of navigation 
 on the Wisconsin River, and is a depot 
 for pine-lumber. The city contains 
 several good-sized and handsome edi- 
 fices, among which are a brick high- 
 school building, and a large and well- 
 built brick court-house, and a good hotel. 
 The Railway Company has a round-house 
 and machine-shops here. Population, 
 about 5,000. 
 
 TTomaali (153 miles), a growing vil- 
 lage, connects with the West Wisconsin. 
 
 §parta (170 miles), the capital of 
 Monroe County, is situated on the La 
 Crosse River, in a very fertile valley. 
 
 I^a Crosse (195 m.). (See p. 160.) 
 
 Enu Claire (241 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Eau Claire County, is a township 
 of about 2,000 inhabitants, on the Chip- 
 pewa River. 
 
 MenoBBiomee (264 miles) is a vil- 
 lage situated on Green Bay, at the mouth 
 of the Menomonee River. 
 
 ESudson (309 miles) is a flourishing 
 village of 2,000 inhabitants, on the east- 
 ern shore of Lake St. Croix. The West 
 Wisconsin Railway now extends to St. 
 Paul. 
 
 It O UTE IV. 
 
 MILWAUKEE TO MADISON. 
 
 Via Sun Prairie & Madison Line of Milivau- 
 
 Icee & St. Raul Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Milwaukee (connects with 
 lake steamers and divergent railways) : 
 Watertown Junction (connects with La 
 Crosse Division), 44 miles ; Iiubbellton, 
 53 ; Waterloo, 58 ; Marshall, 61 ; Sun 
 Prairie, 69; Madison (connects with 
 Prairie du Chien Division, and with Chi- 
 cago & Northwestern Railway), 82. 
 
 Milwaukee. (See page 215.) 
 
 Watertown (44 miles). (See page 
 217.) 
 
 Sun IPrairie (69 miles) is a small 
 but growing village. 
 
 Madison. (82 miles). (See page 
 216.) 
 
 MO UTE V. 
 
 MILWAUKEE TO PORTAGE CITY. 
 
 Via Northern Division of Milwaukee & St. 
 
 Paul Railway. 
 Stations. — Milwaukee (connects with 
 lake steamers and divergent railways) : 
 217 
 
SciIWARTZBURG.J 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Clinton. 
 
 Schwartzburg (connects with Milwaukee 
 Northern Railway), 7 miles; Granville, 
 13; Germantown, 18; Richfield, 23; 
 AckervUle, 28; Schleisingerville, S(>; 
 Hartford, 35; Rubicon, 39; Woodland, 
 43 ; Iron Ridge, 45 ; Horicon Junction, 
 52 ; Minnesota Junction (crossing of 
 Wisconsin Division of Chicago & North- 
 western Railway), 55 ; Rolling Prairie, 
 56 ; Beaver Dam, 61 ; Fox Lake Junc- 
 tion, 67; Randolph, 72; Cambria, 78; 
 Pardeeville, 87; Portage City (junction 
 with La Crosse Division), 96. 
 
 Milwaukee. (See page 215.) 
 
 Scnwartssfonrg; (13 miles), on 
 West Branch of Rouge River, connects 
 with the Milwaukee NortJvern Railway. 
 
 CSei-mantown (18 miles) is a vil- 
 lage on the Wisconsin River. 
 
 IXoi-icon (52 miles), a flourishing 
 village of about 2,000 inhabitants, on 
 Rock River, connects with the Berlin 
 Branch. 
 
 Minnesota (55 miles) is at the 
 junction of Wisconsin Division of the 
 Chicago & Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Portage City (96 miles). (See 
 page 217.) 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 MILWAUKEE TO BERLIN AND WIN- 
 NECONNE. 
 
 Via Northern Division Milwaukee & St. Paul 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Milwaukee (connects with 
 lake steamers and divergent railways) : 
 Schwartzburg (connects with Milwaukee 
 Northern Railway), 7 miles; Granville, 
 13; Germantown, 18; Richfield, 23; 
 Ackerville, 28 ; Schleisingerville, 30 ; 
 Hartford, 35 ; Rubicon. 39 ; Woodland, 
 43; Iron Ridge, 45; Horicon Junction 
 (branch to Portage City diverges), 52; 
 Ihirnett (connects with Wisconsin Di- 
 vision of Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way), 57 ; Waupun, 66 ; Brandon, 74 ; 
 Ripon, 81 ; Rush Lake (Winneconne 
 Branch connects), 88; Berlin, 94. 
 
 Stations. — Winneconne Branch. — Rush 
 bake, 88 miles from Milwaukee (con- 
 nects with Northern Division) ; Waukau, 
 92 ; Omro, 97 ; Winneconne, 102. 
 
 Prom Milwaukee to Horicon Junction 
 lias been described in Route V. of WIS- 
 CONSIN. 
 
 218 
 
 ISnraett (57 miles) connects with 
 the Wisconsin Division of the Chicago <0 
 
 Northwestern Railway. 
 
 SSnsu Bjake (88 miles) connects 
 with the Winneconne Branch. 
 
 Winneconne (102 miles) is a vil- 
 lage of about 2,000 inhabitants, on Fox 
 River at the mouth of Wolf River. 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILL., TO MARQUETTE, MICH. 
 
 Via Wisconsin Division Chicago tfe North- 
 western Railway; hij Steamer up Green 
 Bay, and Peninsular Division Chicago dc 
 Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Stations on Wisconsin Division. — 
 Chicago (connects with railways diver- 
 ging) : Canfield, 12 miles; Des Plaines, 
 17; Palatine, 26; Barrington, 32; Crys- 
 tal Lake, 43; Woodstock, 51 ; Harvard 
 Junction (connects with Madison & Ke- 
 nosha Divisions), 63 ; Clinton Junction 
 (connects with Western Union Railway), 
 78 ; Shopiere, 82 ; Janesville (connects 
 with Southern Wisconsin Division of St. 
 Paul & Milwaukee Railway), 91 ; Milton 
 Junction (connects with Prairie du Chicn 
 Division of St. Paul & Milwaukee Rail- 
 way), 99 ; Fort Atkinson, 111 ; Jefferson, 
 117; Johnson's Creek, 122 ; Watertown 
 (connects with La Crosse Division of St. 
 Paul & Milwaukee Railway), 130 ; Juneau, 
 145 ; Minnesota Junction (connects with 
 Northern Division of St. Paul & Mil- 
 waukee Railwav), 148; Burnett, 152; 
 Chester, 160; Oakfield, 168; Fond du 
 Lac (connects with Sheboygan & Fond 
 du Lac Railway), 177; Oshkosh (con- 
 nects with steamers on Wolf River), 193 ; 
 Neenah, 207; Appleton (connects with 
 steamers on Fox River), 213 ; Little 
 Chute, 218; Kaukauna, 221; Wrights- 
 town, 226 ; De Pere, 236 ; Fort Howard 
 (connects with steamers on Green Bay), 
 242 ; Green Bay, 243. 
 
 Stations on Peninsular Division. — 
 Escanaba, 343 miles from Chicago ; Day's 
 River, 356 ; Centreville, 373 ; Little 
 Lake, 385 ; Negaunce, 405 ; Marquette, 
 418. 
 
 As far as Harvard Junction this road 
 has been described as Route V. of Illi- 
 nois. (See. page 199.) 
 
 Clinton (78 miles) is at the junc- 
 tion of the Western Union Railway. 
 
Fond du Lac] 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 [Green Bay. 
 
 JTanesville (91 miles). (See Sta- 
 tions on Wisconsin Division.) 
 
 Milton (99 miles). {See page 216.) 
 
 Watertown (130 miles). (See 
 page 217.) 
 
 Minnesota (148 miles). (Seepage 
 218.) 
 
 Fond <1m B,;a<r (177 miles), at the 
 south end or head of Winnebago Lake, 
 177 miles north of Chicago and 65 miles 
 south of Fort Howard, is a place much 
 resorted to by travellers in the North- 
 west. It is on the direct route to Green 
 Bay and the copper region of Lake Supe- 
 rior. (See Lake and River Touk, No. I.) 
 Fond du Lac is remarkable, among other 
 things, for its Artesian wells, which are 
 so numerous that nearly every household 
 has its own. They vary in depth from 
 90 to 130 feet. The lumber business is 
 extensively carried on. Population, about 
 15,000. Communication between Win- 
 nebago Lake and Green Bay is effected 
 by steamboats on Fox River. (For de- 
 scription of Winnebago Lake, see page 
 213.) Fond du Lac connects with Mil- 
 waukee by the Air Line Railway. 
 
 Oshkosu, Wis. (193 miles), lies 
 pleasantly on the west side of Lake Win- 
 nebago, near the mouth of Fox River. 
 It is a very flourishing place, already 
 numbering over 12,000 inhabitants, and 
 is much resorted to during the summer 
 months. Immediately above the town 
 the Fox River widens out into the Lake 
 Butte des Moris. Oshkosh is the entrance 
 to the great pine-region of Wisconsin. 
 A visit to the saw-mills will repay the 
 traveller. More than 50,000,000 feet of 
 lumber are manufactured annually. Wolf 
 River, the main channel of communica- 
 tion with the pine-region, is navigable 
 for steamboats a distance of 100 miles. 
 (See Lake Winnebago, page 213.) 
 
 Appleton, Wis. (213 miles), is 
 pleasantly situated on an eminence over- 
 looking the Fox River, 30 miles from its 
 mouth, 5 miles from Lake Winnebago, 
 and 214 from Chicago by the Northwest- 
 ern Railway ; from Milwaukee 177 miles, 
 via Milton Junction. The rapids, known 
 as the Grand Chute, have a descent of 
 about 30 feet in a distance of one mile 
 and a half. Appleton is the seat of 
 Lawrence University. The scenery in the 
 vicinity is attractive, and the approach 
 
 to the city from Green Bay presents some 
 of the most picturesque scenes to be 
 found in this region. 
 
 Little Chute, Kaukauna, Wrightstown, 
 and De Pere, are small places having 
 stations on the Northwestern road, be- 
 tween Appleton and 
 
 Fort Howard (242 miles), the 
 terminus of the Wisconsin division of 
 the Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Green Bay City, "Wis. (243 
 miles), opposite Fort Howard, with which 
 it is connected by a free drawbridge, is 
 a place of some interest to Lake Supe- 
 rior and Green Bay tourists. The steam- 
 ers on Lake Michigan and the bay all 
 stop here. The descent in the Fox 
 River affords fine manufacturing facili- 
 ties, which have been considerably em- 
 ployed. The trip northward up the lake 
 is a favorite one with those who have 
 taken it during the summer months. The 
 steamer runs daily during the season of 
 navigation, on the arrival of the cars 
 from Chicago, for Escanaba, Marquette, 
 and ports on Lake Superior. 
 
 CSreen ISay. — On leaving the city 
 of Green Bay by steamer for Escanaba, 
 100 miles, the tourist passes through one 
 of the most beautiful sheets of water, 
 connecting with Lake Michigan on the 
 north. 
 
 The harbor of Green Bay is formed by 
 the Fox or Neenah River, which here 
 enters from the south, the outward chan- 
 nel being crooked and circuitous until 
 the light-house, 7 miles distant, is passed, 
 when the bay widens, and a large expanse 
 of water is presented to view. 
 
 Oconto, 30 miles north of Green Bay, 
 having daily communication by steam- 
 boat, is a flourishing lumbering village, 
 lying on the west side of the bay, near 
 the mouth of a river of the same name. 
 
 Little Sturgeon Point (40 miles) lies on 
 the east shore of the bay. 
 
 Siurgeo?i Ray is a deep indentation, 
 running nearly across the neck of land 
 which separates Green Bay from Lake 
 Michigan ; it is proposed to construct a 
 ship-canal to connect them. 
 
 Menomonee (58 miles) lies at the mouth 
 of the river of the same name, which 
 forms the dividing line between the States 
 of Wisconsin and Michigan. It is a 
 flourishing lumbering village, whence are 
 219 
 
ESCANAUA.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Elkhorn. 
 
 annually shipped large quantities of lum- 
 ber to Chicago and Eastern markets. 
 
 Green Island (60 miles), nearly midway 
 between the termini of the boat route, 
 lies in the middle of the bay, where there 
 is a light-house. 
 
 Hat Island and Strawberry Inland are 
 small tracts of land passed on the east, 
 near the main shore. 
 
 Chambers's Island (75 miles) is a large 
 and fertile body of land, lying near the 
 middle of the bay, which is here about 
 20 miles wide. 
 
 Porte de Mori (Death's Door) is the 
 entrance into Lake Michigan, separating 
 the main-land from Washington Island, 
 on the north, which is attached to the 
 State of Michigau. To the east lie the 
 broad waters of Lake Michigan. 
 
 Cedar River (90 miles) enters from tho 
 west, where is a lumbering establishment, 
 the whole west shore of Green Bay pro- 
 ducing a heavy growth of pine and other 
 kinds of timber. 
 
 Leaving Cedar River, the steamer's 
 course lies for Little Bay de Noquet, 30 
 miles distant, affording a view of the 
 waters of Lake Michigan on the east, 
 while to the north lies Great Bay de No- 
 quet, about 10 miles wide and 20 miles iu 
 length. 
 
 Pensauhce, Peshtigo, and other towns 
 are springing up on the west shore 
 of Green Bay, where are to be found 
 numerous large lumber establishments, 
 situated on the streams running into tho 
 bay. 
 
 52sca,iisil>a, Alicia. (343 miles 
 from Chicago), is a new and promis- 
 ing town, situated on the western shore 
 of Little Bay de Noc, 120 miles north 
 of the city of Green Bay, and is the 
 southern terminus of the Peninsular 
 Railway of Michigan. Thi3 place, laid 
 out in the spring of 186-1, has a good and 
 secure harbor, of easy access, with a suf- 
 ficient depth of water for the largest class 
 of vessels navigating the lakes. The 
 docks erected by the railroad company are 
 of a substantial and commodious char- 
 acter, intended for the transshipment of 
 iron and copper ore from the Lake Supe- 
 rior mines, distant about 65 miles. 
 
 The site of the town lies on Sand Point, 
 where is a favorable view of the waters 
 of Green Bay lying to the south, and 
 22l) 
 
 Little Bay de Noc on the north. The 
 streets are laid out at right angles, with 
 ample public grounds adjoining the water- 
 front. The future of this place is prom- 
 ising, being identified with the rich min- 
 eral deposits of the Upper Peninsula of 
 Michigan, bordering on Lake Superior. 
 Escanaba has good hotel accommodation. 
 
 The Peninsular Railway runs from the 
 wharf at Escanaba, through a new and 
 wild section of country, to Negaunee, 62 
 miles, there intersecting the Bay de JVo- 
 quct and Marquette Railway, 13 miles 
 above Marquette, forming a through-line 
 of travel. 
 
 Marquette, Mich. (418 miles). 
 (See page 145.) 
 
 The Bay de Noquet & Marquette and 
 the Marquette & Ontonagon Railways 
 form a connection at the iron-mines, and 
 now extend to Lake Michigami, 40 miles 
 from Marquette. This important road is 
 rapidly extending to Ontonagon, 120 miles, 
 also to Portage Lake, thus connecting 
 the iron and copper regions of Lake Su- 
 perior. (See Lake and River Tour, 
 No. I, page 145.) 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 RACINE, WIS., TO ROOK ISLAND, ILL. 
 
 Via Western Union Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Racine (connects with Mil- 
 waukee Division Chicago & Northwestern 
 Railway) : Union Grove, 15 miles; Bur- 
 lington, 27 ; Springfield, 34 ; Elkhorn (con- 
 nects with Milwaukee Division), 41 ; Dari- 
 en, 50 ; Clinton (connects with Wisconsin 
 Division of Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way), 59 ; Beloit (connects with Madison 
 Division of Chicago & Northwestern Rail- 
 way), 69 ; Durand, 85 ; Ereeport (con- 
 nects with Galena Division of Chicago & 
 Northwestern and with Northern Division 
 of Illinois Central Railway), 104 ; Shan- 
 non, 118 ; Mt. Carroll, 131 ; Savanna, 142 ; 
 Thomson, 152 ; Fulton (connects with 
 Iowa Division of Chicago & Northwestern 
 Railway), 159 ; Cordova, 175 ; Port 
 Byron, 180; Rock Island Junction (con- 
 nects with Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway), 190; Rock Island, 197. 
 l&iiciiic. (See page 211.) 
 1£1I«luoi-ii (41 miles), the capital of 
 Walworth County, is a town of about 
 
Stations.] 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 [Minnesota. 
 
 3,000 inhabitants, situated in the midst 
 of a very fertile country, which is diver- 
 sified by prairies and small lakes. 
 
 dintoai(59 miles). (See page 218.) 
 SScloit (09 miles). (See page 199.) 
 &avaraBaaEi, 111. (142 miles). (See 
 page 161.) 
 
 l-'ulton (159 miles). (See page 73.) 
 G£oi-k Island (197 miles). (See 
 page "76.) 
 
 MOUTE IX. 
 
 madison wiscoysm, to Chicago, 
 Illinois. 
 
 Via Madison Division of Chicago & North- 
 western Railway, 
 
 Stations. — Madison (connects with 
 railways diverging): Oregon, 10 miles; 
 Magnolia, 27 ; Hanover, 34 ; Afton, 40 ; 
 Beloit (connects with Western Union 
 Railway), 47 ; Caledonia (connects with 
 Kenosha Division), 60 ; Harvard (connects 
 with Wisconsin Division), 75 ; Chicago 
 (connects with railways diverging), 138. 
 Itladison. (See page 199.) 
 IScloit (17 miles). (See page 199.) 
 
 Caledomia (60 miles) connects 
 with the Kenosha Division. (See page 
 199.) 
 
 Harvard (75 miles). (See page 
 199.) 
 
 Ciiicag-© (138 miles). (See page 6.) 
 
 ROUTE X. 
 
 SHEBOYGAN TO FOND DU LAC. 
 Via Sheboygan & Fond du Lac- Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Sheboygan (connects with 
 steamers on Lake Michigan) : Sheboy- 
 gan Falls, 5 miles ; Glenbculah, 21 ; St. 
 Cloud, 26 ; Calvary, 31 : Fond du Lac (con- 
 nects with Wisconsin Division of Chicago 
 & Northwestern Railway), 45. 
 
 Slaetooyg-aa, the capital of Sheboy- 
 gan County, is situated on a river of the 
 same name, 6 miles from its entrance into 
 Lake Michigan, with which it connects by 
 steamer. It is an active village of about 
 3,500 inhabitants, and engages largely in 
 the manufacture of lumber. 
 
 I^onicl da 9L<ac (45 miles). (See 
 page 219.) 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 Tue State of Minnesota derives its 
 name from its principal river, the Minne- 
 sota (St. Peter's), which, in the Sioux or 
 Dakota language, means "muddy water." 
 It extends from 43|-° to 49° north lati- 
 tude, and from 89° 29' to 97° 5' west 
 longitude, and is bounded on the north 
 by the British possessions, on the south 
 by Iowa, on the east by Lake Superior, 
 Wisconsin, and the Mississippi River, 
 and on the west by Dakota Territory. 
 
 Romantic stories of the wonders of 
 the land, which now forms the State of 
 Minnesota, were told more than two cen- 
 turies ago by the zealous French mission- 
 aries, who had even at that remote 
 period pushed their adventures thither ; 
 nevertheless, scarcely twenty years have 
 elapsed since immigration has earnestly 
 set that way, creating populous towns 
 and cultivated farms along the rivers 
 and valleys, before occupied by the 
 canoe and the wigwam of the savage 
 alone. Some idea of the marvellous 
 
 growth and development of this young 
 State may be formed by the fact that 
 during the past decade the cultivated 
 area of Minnesota has increased nearly 
 300 per cent., the population nearly 250 
 per cent., and the value of manufactures 
 about 250 per cent. In 1850, the census 
 showed a population of 5,330 ; in 1 860, 
 172,023; and in 1870, 435,511. The 
 total valuation of real estate and per- 
 sonal property in 1860 was $32,018,773. 
 By the census of 1870, it is now 
 $84,160,368. The magical development 
 of Minnesota is in keeping with that 
 marvellous spirit of progress so charac- 
 teristic of the Western sections of the 
 United States. So rapid is this growth, 
 and on such a sure and enlightened 
 basis, that the church and the school- 
 house spring up in the wilderness before 
 there are inhabitants to occupy them. 
 In Minnesota, one of the earliest founda- 
 tions was that of an Historical Society 
 (1849), established almost before the his- 
 221 
 
Minnesota River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Minnesota Lakss. 
 
 tory of the country had begun. As a 
 field of adventure for student and 
 sportsman, Minnesota offers greater at- 
 tractions than perhaps any other State 
 in th>> West ; while the beauty of its 
 scenery and the salubrity of its climate 
 present inducements to the lover of 
 Nature and the invalid which will always 
 make it a desirable region for explora- 
 tion and settlement. Minnesota occupies 
 an area almost four times as great as 
 that of the State of Ohio, extending 
 from the Mississippi and the St. Croix 
 Rivers, and from Lake Superior on the 
 east to the Missouri and the White-Earth 
 Rivers on the west, a distance of more 
 than 400 miles ; and from the Iowa line 
 on the south to the British borders on 
 the north — also 400 miles apart. The 
 entire area embraces 81,259 square 
 miles, or SS^GO^OO acres. Almost the 
 whole of this vast region is a fine rolling 
 prairie of rich soil, a sandy loam adapt- 
 ed to the short summers of the climate, 
 and which produces bounteously. The 
 surface of the country, excepting the 
 Missouri plains, is interspersed with nu- 
 merous beautiful lakes of fresh water 
 — all abounding in the finest fish, and 
 their banks covered with a rich growth 
 of woodland. 
 
 The land of Minnesota is about equal- 
 ly divided between oak-openings and 
 prairies, the whole well watered by numer- 
 ous navigable streams. In the eastern 
 section, on the headwaters of the Missis- 
 sippi, Ruin River, and the St. Croix, are 
 extensive pine and hard-wood forests, 
 apparently inexhaustible for centuries ; 
 while from the mouth of Crow-wing 
 River, a tributary of the Mississippi, an 
 extensive forest of hardwood timber, 
 fifty miles in width, extends southwest- 
 erly into the country watered by the 
 Blue-Earth River, a tributary of the 
 Minnesota River, emptying into it 150 
 miles above its mouth. 
 
 The Minnesota River rises near Lac 
 Traverse, flows southeasterly a distance 
 of 450 miles, and empties into the Mis- 
 sissippi at Fort Smiling, seven miles 
 above St. Paul, and the same distance 
 below St. Anthony. This is one of the 
 finest streams in the valley of the Missis- 
 sippi, and the country through which it 
 flows is not excelled for salubrity of cli- 
 
 mate and fertility of soil by any part of 
 the United States. In a good stage of 
 water, steamboats can ascend it almost 
 to its source. A portage of three miles 
 then connects it with Lac Traverse; and 
 the outlet of the latter, the Sioux Wood 
 River, with the famous Red River of the. 
 North. This stream is navigable at all 
 seasons for steamboats from Bois do 
 Sioux (Sioux City) to Pembina, on the 
 British line, to the Selkirk settlements, 
 100 miles beyond and even to Lake Win- 
 nipeg. The Mississippi has been described 
 in Lake and River Tour, No. I. St. 
 Croix Lake and River are navigable to 
 the Falls, 60 miles above the junction of 
 the lake and Mississippi ; and the St. 
 Louis River is navigable from Lake Supe- 
 rior 20 miles to Fond du Lac. Numerous 
 other streams are navigable for light- 
 draught steamers and flat-boats from 50 
 to 100 miles, penetrating into the interior 
 to the pineries, and giving easy access 
 into the country in all directions. These 
 are the Rlae-Earth, Rum, Elk, Sauk, 
 Crow, C'nnv-wing, Vcrmilio?i, and Cannon 
 Rivers. 
 
 The B.sil*.<'s of Minnesota, 
 which are very numerous, form one of 
 the most inviting and picturesque fea- 
 tures of the State. They are found in 
 every section, and are annually visited by 
 large numbers of tourists and sportsmen. 
 Sometimes they are little ponds a mile in 
 circumference, and, again, sheets of wa- 
 ter 40 or 50 miles in extent. Their shores 
 are charmingly wooded, and frequently 
 present fine pictures of cliff and head- 
 land. The waters are pure and trans- 
 parent, and are filled with white-fish, 
 trout, pike, pickerel, sucker, perch, and 
 other finny inhabitants. The largest of 
 these lakes are the Minnetonka, the 
 Osakis or Spirit Lake, White Rear, 
 Kandiyohi, Otter-tail, and Mille Lac. 
 Lake Pepin, a beautiful expansion of the 
 Mississippi, is in this region. On its east 
 bank is the famous Maiden's Rock, 400 
 feet high ; and, near the northern end, 
 the La Grange Mountain rises in a bold 
 headland, 280 feet above the water. 
 Rainy Lake, Minne-Waken or Devil Lake, 
 Red and Leach Lakes, are all in this 
 State. 
 
 On the northeastern border of the 
 territory is Lake Superior, with its valua- 
 
Stations.] 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 [Mendota. 
 
 ble fisheries and its shores abounding in 
 inexhaustible mines of copper, coal, iron, 
 etc., besides affording the facility of that 
 vast inland sea for immigration and com- 
 merce. (See Lake and River Tour, 
 No. I.) 
 
 Various elevated ridges traverse Min- 
 nesota, though the State is far from being 
 of a mountainous character. The pla- 
 teau catted the Coleaux des Prairies, or 
 the Prairie Heights, is one of these 
 singular terraces. It extends 200 miles, 
 with a breadth varying from 20 to 40 
 mile3. Tho average elevation of this 
 lofty plain is some 1,500 feet, and in 
 some parts it rises nearly 2,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea. In the north 
 it is about 900 feet above the neighbor- 
 ing waters of Big-Stone Lake. There is 
 another range of wooded heights, reach- 
 ing 100 miles or more, called the " Co- 
 teau du Grand Bois." Then there are 
 the " Hauteurs de Terre," highlands 
 which extend some 300 miles. These 
 last-mentioned ridges form the dividing 
 line of the rivers, which flow to Hudson's 
 Bay on one side and to the Mississippi 
 and Lake Superior on the other. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 MILWAUKEE, WIS., TO ST. PAUL, 
 MINK 
 
 Via Milwaukee <& St. Paul Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Milwaukee : Brookfield 
 Junction (La Crosse Division diverges), 
 14 miles ; Waukesha, 20 ; Eagle, 36 ; 
 Palmyra, 42 ; Whitewater, 50 ; Milton, 
 62 ; Milton Junction (connects with Wis- 
 consin Division of Chicago & North- 
 western Railway), 63 ; Edgerton, 70 ; 
 Stoughton, 80 ; Madison (connects with 
 railways diverging), 95 ; Mazomanie, 118 ; 
 Spring Green, 132 ; Avoea, 145 ; Mus- 
 coda, 151 ; Boscobel, 165 ; Prairie du 
 Chien, 193 ; North McGregor, 194; Post- 
 ville, 220; Ossian, 231; Calmar (Iowa 
 h Dakota Division diverges), 237 ; Con- 
 over, 240 ; Cresco, 256 ; Lime Springs, 
 207; Le Roy, 279; Austin (Mason City 
 h Minnesota Branch diverges), 305 ; 
 Ramsey (connects with Southern Min- 
 nesota Railway), 308 ; Blooming Prairie, 
 320 ; Owatonna (connects with Winona 
 & St. Peter's Railway), 338 ; Faribault, 
 
 353; Dundas, 364; Northfield, 367 ; Far- 
 mington (connects with Hastings & Da- 
 kota Division), 380 ; Mendota (connects 
 with St. Paul & Sioux City Railway), 
 100 ; Minneapolis (connects with St. 
 Paul & Pacific Railway), 409 ; St. Paul, 
 406. 
 
 From Milwaukee to Prairie du Chien 
 this road has been described as Route 
 II. of Wisconsin (see page 216); and 
 from McGregor, Iowa, to Austin, Minn., 
 as Route VIII. of Iowa. (See page 
 206.) 
 
 Faribault (353 miles), the capital 
 of Rice County, situated at the confluence 
 of the Cannon and Straight Rivers, i3 
 one of the most populous and thriving 
 interior towns in the State. In 1853 it 
 was the site of Alexander Faribault's 
 trading-post. Since 1857 its growth has 
 been rapid, and the present population 
 .is estimated at 5,000. The Slate Asylum 
 for the deaf and dumb, and an Episco- 
 palian College, are located here. The 
 National and the Barron House are the 
 leading hotels. 
 
 Owat©n3ia(338 miles), the capital 
 of Steele County, on Straight River, con- 
 nects with the Winona <£• Si. Peter's Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Mendota (400 miles), which lies 
 about half a mile below the mouth of the 
 Minnesota, was formerly a trading-post 
 of the American Fur Company, but is 
 now mainly important to the traveller 
 as a point of convergence and radia- 
 tion for the several railway lines lead- 
 ing to and from St. Paul, Minneapolis, 
 and Winona. Until within a few years it 
 was included in the military reserve of 
 Fort Snelling. It has not attained that 
 degree of prosperity so remarkable in the 
 villages of St. Paul and Minneapolis, and 
 which its far more favorable position 
 might justly have secured for it. The 
 vicinity commands some fine views. From 
 Pilot Knob, which lies back of Mendota, a 
 view may be obtained of the surrounding 
 country as far as the eye can reach, af- 
 fording to the spectator a sight of one of 
 the most charming natural pictures to be 
 found in this State, so justly celebrated for 
 scenic beauty. The view embraces, within 
 a circle of eight or nine miles, a grand 
 spectacle of rolling prairie, extended plain 
 and groves, the valley of the Minnesota 
 223 
 
Minneapolis.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Feter. 
 
 with its meandering stream, a bird's-eye 
 view of Fort Snelling, Lake Harriet in 
 the distance — the town of St. Anthony 
 just visible through the nooks of the in- 
 tervening groves — and St. Paul, looking 
 like a city set upon a hill, its buildings 
 and spires distinctly visible, and present- 
 ing in appearance the distant view of a 
 city containing a population of a hundred 
 thousand human beings. 
 
 Minneapolis (409 miles), the 
 capital of Hennepin County, and one of 
 the most populous and flourishing points 
 in the State, is situated on the west bank 
 of the Mississippi, in full view of the falls 
 and the town of St. Anthony. It con- 
 nects with the St. Paul & Pacific Railway. 
 The town is well built and contains sev- 
 eral commodious buildings, among which 
 the Court-House, the various mills, and 
 the two leading hotels, the Nicollet House 
 and First National Hotel, are the most 
 prominent. The Music Hall, Athenaeum 
 (Post-Olfice), and Harrison Hall, are also 
 among the principal buildings. Like its 
 neighbor, St. Anthony, Minneapolis de- 
 rives much of its prosperity from the 
 adjacent falls. The saw and grist mills 
 are numerous and extensive. A short 
 distance south of the town is an en- 
 closure of 75 acres which is used as a 
 Driving Parle. Silver Cascade and Bridal 
 Veil Polk arc reached in an easy ride 
 from Minneapolis. Lakes Harriet and 
 Calhoun afford delightful drives and 
 sport. Lake Minnetonka is 12 miles 
 westward. Minneapolis is growing more 
 rapidly than any other town in the State, 
 and, having just absorbed St. Anthony, is 
 disputing the supremacy with St. Paul. 
 
 St. B*aal (406 miles). (Sec page 
 154.) 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 LA CROSSE TO WINNEBAGO. 
 
 Via Southern Minnesota Hallway. 
 
 Stations. — La Crosse (connects with 
 La Crosse Division Milwaukee & St. Paul 
 Railway): Hokah, 6 miles ; Houston, 19; 
 Rushford, 31 ; Whalan, 45; Lanesboro', 
 51 ; fountain, 62; Grand Meadow, 86; 
 Ramsey (connects with .Minnesota Di- 
 vision of Milwaukee >V St. Paul Railway), 
 107; Albert Lea, 128; Alden, 138; 
 224 
 
 Wells, 148; Winnebago (connects with 
 
 stages for Blue Earth City, etc.), 170. 
 JLa C'r«>sse. (See page 160.) 
 fiS;ii«i«»t\r (107 miles) connects with 
 
 the Minnesota Division of the Milwaukee 
 
 <£• St. Paid Railway. 
 
 "WiaiBiell»a,jjf«> (1-^0 miles) connects 
 
 with stages to Blue Earth City. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 WINONA TO ST. PETER. 
 Via Winona <£• St. Peter Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Winona (connects with 
 river steamers) : Minnesota City, 6 miles : 
 Lewiston, 19 ; St. Charles, 28 ; Eyota, 37 ; 
 Rochester, 50 ; Kasson, 65 ; Claremont, 
 78; Owatonna (connects with Milwaukee 
 & St. Paul Railway), 90; Meridcn, 99; 
 Waseca, 105; Janesville, 116; Mankato 
 Junction (branch to Mankato diverges), 
 131; St. Peter (connects with St. Paul 
 & Sioux City Railway), 140. 
 
 Winona. (See page 159.) 
 
 IKocBiester (50 miles), the capital 
 of Olmsted County, on the southern 
 branch of the Zumbro River, is rather 
 an important station. It is surrounded 
 by rich farms, of which wheat is the 
 staple product. Population about 2,500. 
 
 Owatonna (90 miles). (See page 
 223.) 
 
 Waseca (105 miles') is situated on 
 beautiful prairie-land, in the county of the 
 same name. 
 
 Mankato (131 miles), the capital 
 of Blue Earth County, is on the right 
 bank of the Minnesota or St. Peter River, 
 148 miles from its mouth, at the head of 
 permanent navigation. It is in the midst 
 of a fertile country, and must eventually 
 become a place of much importance. 
 Population about 4,000. 
 
 St. IPcter (140 miles), the capital 
 of Nicollet County, is advantageously 
 situated on the Minnesota River. It con- 
 nects with the St. Paul <b Sioux City 
 Railway. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 ST. PAUL TO ST. JAMES. 
 Tut St. Paul ft Siowe cit tj Railway. 
 Stations. — St. Paul (connects with 
 diverging railways and with river steam- 
 
St. ANTnoxr.] 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 [Kandiyohi 
 
 crs) : Mendota Junction (connects with 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway), 6 miles ; 
 Hamilton, 18; Shakopee (connects with 
 Hastings & Dakota Division of Milwaukee 
 & St. Paul Railway), 28 ; Brentwood, 39 ; 
 Belle Plaine, 47 ; Le Sueur, 63 ; St. Peter 
 (connects with Winona & St. Peter Rail- 
 way), 75 ; Mankato, 86 ; Lake Crystal, 
 100 ; Madelia, 110 ; St. James, 122. 
 
 St. Paul. (See page 154.) 
 
 Mendota, Junction (6 miles). 
 (See page 223.) 
 
 St. Peter (75 miles). (See page 
 224.) 
 
 Mankato (S6 miles). (See page 
 224.) 
 
 St. James (122 miles) is the pres- 
 ent terminus of the road. 
 
 ROUTE r. 
 
 ST. PAUL TO BRECKENRIDGE. 
 
 Tin First Division St. Paul & Pacific Pail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations. — St. Paul (connects with riv- 
 er steamers and diverging railways) : St. 
 Anthony Junction, 10 miles ; St. Anthony, 
 10; Minneapolis, 11 ; Wayzata (connects 
 with steamer for Excelsior), 25 ; Long 
 Lake, 2S ; Maple Plain, 33 ; Delano (con- 
 nects with stages for Watertown and 
 Rockford), 40 ; Waverly, 49 ; Howard 
 Lake, 54; Smith Lake, 57 ; Cokato, 61; 
 Dassel, 67 ; Darwin, 72 ; Litchfield, 84 ; 
 Kandiyohi, 104 ; Willmar, 125 ; Brecken- 
 ridge, 217. 
 
 St. Paul. (See page 154.) 
 St. Anthony (10 miles) is a 
 thriving place on the left bank of the Mis- 
 sissippi, at the famous falls of St. Anthony. 
 The village is situated upon a lofty ter- 
 race overlooking the falls. It was in- 
 corporated in 1855, but now forms part 
 of Minneapolis. Its position at the head 
 of navigation on the Father of Waters, 
 below the falls, is of immense commercial 
 consideration, and the falls afford incal- 
 culable water-power for manufactories. 
 The Slate University and the Window 
 House building, now used for the pur- 
 pose of a hygienic water-cure, are seen 
 in approaching or entering the town. St. 
 Anthony is connected with Minneapolis 
 by a strepension-bridge 620 feet in length, 
 erected in 1855. 
 
 The Falls or St. Anthony, 
 
 the principal attraction hereabouts, can 
 be seen with about equal advantage from 
 either shore. The fall is 18 feet perpen- 
 dicular, with a rapid descent of 50 feet 
 within a distance of one mile. The river 
 at this point is divided by an island (Ni- 
 collet), as at Niagara, where it rushes 
 over a bold and broad ledge of limestone. 
 The falls are not so striking as one might 
 expect from the descriptions given them 
 by some travellers. Says a tourist : 
 " There is no prodigious height for the 
 water to leap from, as at Niagara, but the 
 rapids are grander and quite as extensive, 
 while their power is shown by the large 
 slabs of stone which lie in distorted piles 
 along the shore, some standing up on 
 end like giant tombstones, others piled 
 irregularly as if trying to crowd away 
 from the fearful force of the water. 
 
 " For a quarter of a mile above the 
 main fall the bed of the river is composed 
 of a thin stratum of limestone, supported 
 by sandstone. This latter, being soft 
 and crumbling, is worn away under the 
 constant action of the water, thus form- 
 ing a sort of cave, with the slab of lime- 
 stone from which the water falls over- 
 hanging it. Of course, as this excava- 
 tion grows deeper, the limestone having 
 nothing to support it, and unable to bear 
 the heavy mass of water, breaks away, 
 and thus St. Anthony's Falls recede. 
 
 "As a mere spectacle, St. Anthony's 
 Fall is grander by moonlight than at any 
 other time, for then the unpoetical and 
 unsightly buildings around it do not ob- 
 trude themselves, while the noise and 
 dash of the rapids are heard and seen to 
 perfection. At such a time. St. Anthony's 
 waters present an overpowering idea of 
 furious strength, and one worthy to be 
 remembered along with the recollections 
 of Niagara itself. A greater contrast to 
 the gentle beauty of Minnehaha it would 
 be impossible to find ; and yet these two 
 cataracts are within a short walking-dis- 
 tance of each other, and to tourists both 
 will be, for ages to come, among the 
 greatest attractions of the Northwest." 
 
 Minneapolis (11 miles). (See 
 page 224.) 
 
 Kandiyohi (104 miles) is situated 
 in a county of the same name, which 
 contains numerous small lakes, the name 
 225 
 
Breckenridge.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [MOORIIEAD. 
 
 of one of which is Kandiyohi. The coun- 
 try around here is undulating or nearly 
 level, and the soil is very fertile. 
 
 I*reclcenri«lg'c (217 miles) is on 
 the Red River of the North, at the mouth 
 of the Sioux Wood River. 
 
 M O U TE VI. 
 
 ST. PAUL TO SAUK RAPIDS, CROW 
 WING, AND THE RED RIVER. 
 
 Via Sank Rapids Branch of St. Paul A Pa- 
 cific Railway, and by Stage to Crow Wing. 
 
 Stations. — St. Paul (connects with 
 river steamers and diverging railways): 
 St. Anthony Junction, 10 miles; Mano- 
 min, 18; Anoka, 30; Itasca, 86; Elk 
 River (connects with stage for Prince- 
 ton), 40 ; Big Lake (connects with stage 
 for Monticello), 50; Clear Lake (con- 
 nects with stage for Clear Water), 65 ; 
 St. Cloud (connects with stage for Sauk 
 Centre, Alexandria Fort, Abercromis, 
 and Fort Garry, B. N. A.), 75 ; Sauk 
 Rapids (connects with stage for Little 
 Falls, Fort Ripley, and Crow Wing), 78. 
 
 St. l*anl. {See page 154.) 
 
 St. Anthony (10 miles). (See page 
 225.) 
 
 Asiolise, (30 miles), the capital of 
 Anoka County, is situated at the mouth 
 of Millc Lac (Rum River), at its conflu- 
 ence with the Mississippi. It was sur- 
 veyed in 1854, and has a population of 
 about 2,500. 
 
 St. Clontl (75 miles), on the west 
 side of the Mississippi, at the foot of 
 Sauk Rapids, is a thriving place of some 
 3,000 inhabitants. It has a good hotel 
 (Fletcher House). 
 
 Sauk BCiijpiris (78 miles) is a 
 pretty village, connecting by stage with 
 Little Falls, Fort Ripley, and Crow Wing. 
 The river here falls 15 feet in a distance 
 of half a mile, and furnishes a valuable 
 water-power. The Mississippi above the 
 rapids flows through a level country, inter- 
 spersed with timber, as far as Crow Whiff. 
 
 From Sauk Rapids the adventurous 
 tourist may pursue his journey nearly 200 
 miles to the Red River, or still farther to 
 Fort Garry, in British North America. 
 
 (row Wiutg- (120 miles from St. 
 Paul), on the east bank of the Mississippi 
 River, opposite the mouth of Crow-Wing 
 220 
 
 River, is an important Indian trading-post, 
 and prospectively a place of much impor- 
 tance in connection with the St. Paul & 
 Pacific Railway, which will eventually be 
 extended northward to Pembina, on the 
 Red River. The St. Paul <k Pacific Rail- 
 way has been bought by and practically 
 consolidated with the .Northern Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 IiOUTE VII. 
 
 DULUTH TO MISSOURI RIVER. 
 
 Via Northern Pacific Railroad. 
 
 Stations. — Duluth (connects with lake 
 steamers to Eastern ports) : Spirit Lake, 
 9 miles ; Thomson, 23 ; Junction (con- 
 nects with Lake Superior & Mississippi 
 Railroad), 24 ; Island Lake, 46 ; Kimber- 
 ly, 76 ; Brainerd, 115 ; Motley, 137 ; Hay- 
 den, 143 ; Aldrich, 151 ; Leaf River, 166 ; 
 Detroit, 206; Oak Lake, 210; Hawley, 
 229; Glyndon, 242; Moorhead (connects 
 with stages and steamboats on Red 
 River for Pembina and Fort Garry), 
 252. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Railroad, which 
 when completed will form the second 
 great highway across the continent, is 
 now finished from Duluth to Bismarck, 
 at the crossing of the Missouri River. It 
 strikes directly across the centre of Min- 
 nesota and Dakota, and traverses their 
 richest portions, which are fast filling up 
 with settlers. For the first 24 miles, 
 from Duluth to the Junction, it is identi- 
 cal with the Lake Superior & Mississippi 
 Railroad, and between the two passes by 
 the picturesque and striking scenery of 
 the Dalles of the St. Louis, already de- 
 scribed on page 153. At 
 
 llruinortl (115 miles) the road 
 crosses the Mississippi on a stout wooden 
 bridge, and enters upon the prairie-re- 
 gion of Minnesota. 
 
 I>cti*oit (206 miles) is the depot for 
 Detroit Lake, where the " Boston Colo- 
 ny " is located. 
 
 Glyndon (242 miles) is the site of 
 another flourishing colony ; and 
 
 Moorlnead (252 miles), at the 
 crossing of the Red River of the North. 
 
 lSi*iti:trek (165 miles) is at the 
 cros;-iii£ of the Missouri River and at 
 present the terminus of the road. 
 
a nut IOOK 
 1 
 
rvivcr, <-> 
 
Stations.] 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 [Missouri. 
 
 MOUTJE VIII. 
 
 ST. PAUL TO RED WIKG. 
 
 Via St. Paul <£■ Chicago Division of Si. Paul 
 & Milwaukee Railway. 
 
 Stations. — St. Paul (connects with 
 river-steamers and diverging railways) : 
 Hastings, 20 miles ; Red Wing (connects 
 with river-steamers), 41. 
 
 St. Paul. (See page 154.) 
 
 Hastings (20 miles), (ike page 
 158.) 
 
 15 eel "Wing" (41 miles). (See page 
 159.) 
 
 ROUTE IX. 
 
 ST. PAUL TO ST. CROIX, WISCONSIN. 
 
 Via Steamboat down the Mississippi River 
 
 and vp Vie, St. Croix. River. 
 
 Landings. — St. Paul : Red Rock, 7 
 miles; Hastings, 17; Vermilion River, 
 20 ; Point Douglas, 25 ; Prescott, Wis., 
 25 ; Hudson, Wis., 41 ; Stillwater, 46 ; Ma- 
 rine Mills, 61 ; Osceola, 70 ; St. Croix, 79. 
 
 The Mississippi River, from St. Paul 
 to Prescott, has been described. (See 
 pages 154-158.) 
 
 Stillwater (46 miles), in Wash- 
 ington County, upon the west bank of 
 Lake St. Croix, was first settled in 1843, 
 and is rapidly becoming a populous and 
 important place. 
 
 Osceola (70 miles), a small village, 
 was named in honor of a celebrated Semi- 
 nole chief. 
 
 Lake S(. Croix, an expansion of the 
 river, 36 miles in length, which opens out 
 shortly after leaving the Mississippi, is a 
 beautiful sheet of water. Steamers run 
 up the St. Croix Lake and River to the 
 falls. 
 
 The Si. Croix Falls, or Rapids, are in 
 the St. Croix River, 54 miles from its 
 mouth. The St. Croix continues the 
 boundary-line between Wisconsin and 
 Minnesota, in the upper half of the State, 
 formed below by the waters of the Mis- 
 sissippi. The falls in the St. Croix have 
 a descent of 50 feet in 300 yards. The 
 perpendicular walls of trap-rock, between 
 which the waters make their boisterous 
 way, present a scene of remarkably pic- 
 turesque interest. This wild pass is 
 about half a mile below the Rapids. It 
 is called the Dalles of the St. Croix. 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 Missouri was formerly part of the an- 
 cient territory of Louisiana, purchased 
 by the United States from France. It is 
 one of the largest of the United States, 
 being 285 miles long, and nearly 2S0 
 miles wide, and embraces an area of 
 67,380 square miles, or 43,000,000 acres. 
 It was the first State formed wholly west 
 of the Mississippi. A settlement called 
 Fort Orleans was made within its limits 
 by the French in 1719. The oldest town 
 in the State, St. Genevieve, was founded 
 in 1755. St. Louis was commenced in 
 1764. The State was visited in 1811 
 and in 1812 by a memo'rable series of 
 earthquakes, which occurred in the neigh- 
 borhood of New Madrid. The face of 
 the country was greatly altered by these 
 events ; hills entirely disappeared, lakes 
 were obliterated, and new ones formed. 
 The waters of the Mississippi River were 
 turned back with such accumulations, 
 
 that they overran the levees built to hem 
 them in, and inundated whole regions, 
 leaving them in their present marshy 
 state. 
 
 The more recent history of Missouri 
 has been eventful. The State was the 
 scene of active and widely-extended op- 
 erations by both Federal and Confed- 
 erate forces during the war of 1861-65. 
 As the only slaveholding State on the 
 western border, it early attracted the 
 attention of the Government. A conven- 
 tion met at Jefferson City, February 28, 
 1861, which was adjourned to meet at 
 St. Louis, March 4th, following. On the 
 16th of May, 1861, a camp of instruction, 
 located in the western suburbs of St. 
 Louis, and known as "Camp Jackson," 
 and composed of State militia under the 
 command of General Frost, surrendered 
 to the United States troops under Gen- 
 eral Lyon. In marching out a riot took 
 227 
 
1 
 
 , XV. 
 
 
Missouri.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Big Trees of Missouri. 
 
 place, in which twenty-five pers-ons wore 
 killed and wounded. The respective 
 forces in the State in November of that 
 year were estimated to amount to 42,000 
 men, 2*7,000 of whom were Federals. 
 The State was the scene of almost con- 
 tinuous invasion, fighting, "bushwhack- 
 ing," and rioting, during 1862-'G3, and 
 indeed until nearly the close of the war. 
 In October, 1864, the Confederates un- 
 der Price were routed near the crossing of 
 the Little Osage River, and either taken 
 prisoners or driven out of the State. 
 
 The surface of Missouri is in many 
 parts level or but slightly undulating. 
 A wide, marshy tract occupies an area 
 of 3,000 square miles in the southeastern 
 part, near the Mississippi. In other sec- 
 tions are vast reaches of prairie-lands, 
 extending to the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 The climate is very variable; the win- 
 ters are very cold, and the summer very 
 hot, but the air is dry and pure. In the 
 summer the climate is trying to persons 
 in delicate health. 
 
 The soil is generally good and of great 
 agricultural capabilities. The most fer- 
 tile portions are the river-bottoms. The 
 most important staple of Missouri is In- 
 dian corn, and more hemp is produced 
 than in any State except Kentucky. To- 
 bacco, flax, and all the varieties of grains, 
 fruits, vegetables, and grasses, are raised 
 in abundance, the soil being admirably 
 adapted to their successful growth. 
 
 Timber is very plentiful, the river-bot- 
 toms being " covered with a luxuriant 
 growth of oak, elm, ash, hickory, cotton- 
 wood, linn, and white and black walnut. 
 In the more barren districts are found 
 white and pin oak, and sometimes forests 
 of yellow pine. The crab-apple, papaw, 
 and persimmon, are abundant ; as also 
 the hazel and pecan." 
 
 Tli£ population in 1800 was 1,182,012. 
 By the census of 1870 it was 1,722,102. 
 The total valuation of real estate and 
 personal property is given by the late 
 census as $552,728,032, against $260,- 
 935,651 in 1860. 
 
 Some remarkable caves have been dis- 
 covered of late years in Missouri. One 
 of these is in the Ozark Mountains, Green 
 County, about six miles from Springfield. 
 
 In the southwest of the State are many 
 other caves. 
 223 
 
 The Ozark Mountains, which traverse 
 the State of Arkansas, extend through 
 Missouri, centrally, from north to south, 
 in the form of elevated table-lands. The 
 rich alluvial tracts of the Mississippi lie 
 east of this district, and westward are 
 boundless deserts and treeless plains, 
 sweeping away to the base of the Rocky 
 Mountain ranges. Missouri is divided into 
 113 counties. 
 
 SSig- Trees of Missouri. — 
 It is popularly supposed that California 
 has the biggest trees in the world ; but 
 Prof. Swallow, of the Missouri Geological 
 Survey, claims the distinction for his 
 own State. He gives the following act- 
 ual measurement of trees in Southwest 
 Missouri : 
 
 " The largest is a sycamore in Missis- 
 sippi County, 05 feet high, which, two feet 
 above the ground, measures 43 feet in 
 circumference. Another sycamore, in 
 Howard County, is 38 feet in circumfer- 
 ence. A cypress in Cape Girardeau 
 County, at a distance of one foot from 
 the ground, measures 29 feet in circum- 
 ference. A cotton-wood in Mississippi 
 County measures 30 feet at a distance of 
 six feet above the ground. A pecan in 
 the same county measures 18 feet in cir- 
 cumference. A black walnut in Benton 
 County is 26 feet in circumference. A 
 tulip-tree (poplar) in Cape Girardeau 
 County is 30 feet in circumference. 
 There is a tupelo in Stoddard County 30 
 feet in circumference. There is a hack- 
 berry in Howard County 11 feet in cir- 
 cumference. A Spanish oak in New 
 Madrid County is 26 feet in circum- 
 ference. A honey locust in Howard 
 County is 13 feet round. There is a 
 willow in Pemiscot County that has 
 grown to the size of 24 feet in circum- 
 ference, and 100 feet in height. Missis- 
 sippi County boasts of a sassafras that 
 must be king of that tribe; it measures 
 nine feet in circumference. In Pemiscot 
 County there is a dogwood six feet in 
 circumference." These are large trees, 
 but the reader will observe that they are 
 very much smaller than those of Califor- 
 nia, one of which is 107 feet in circum- 
 ference. 
 
 MINERALS, ETO. 
 
 The State is remarkably rich in iron- 
 ore, lead and copper and coal mines, and 
 
Minerals.] 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 in nearly all the mineral products. It 
 possesses, too, a great variety of marbles, 
 some of them beautifully variegated, and 
 other valuable building-stones. Pilot 
 Knob and Iron Mountain, 85 miles south 
 of St. Louis, are mineral curiosities well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 The distribution of metals all over the 
 State will be seen in the following figures : 
 Iron in forty-six counties, lead in forty- 
 three, coal in thirty-six, copper in twenty- 
 four, marble in eleven, zinc in twenty- 
 seven, fire-clay in sixteen, barytes in ten, 
 nickel in six, granite in four, tin in four, 
 plumbago in two, gypsum in two, alum 
 in one, antimony in four. There is 
 probably no country in the world so en- 
 dowed as this. Of iron alone, according 
 to the State Geologist's report for 1855, 
 there is ore of the best quality, sufficient 
 to furnish 200,000,000 tuns of iron; and 
 this quantity lies in a small space, in the 
 \ r icinity of Pilot Knob and Iron Moun- 
 tain, and within 100 miles of St. Louis. 
 The quality of the iron is highly spoken 
 of by the manufacturers, and the capa- 
 city of the smelting appliances has reach- 
 ed to over 150,000 tons per annum. The 
 coal is well suited for reduction of ores, 
 cither by hot or cold blast treatment. 
 The Scotia Iron Company commenced 
 operations in January, 1870; and, al- 
 though the materials for building blast- 
 furnaces had to be carried 80 miles into 
 a desert, the first furnace was blown into 
 blast in August, 1870. This furnace will 
 run about twenty-four tuns per day. The 
 company procures ore from a hill, near 
 the furnace, in which there is an ap- 
 parently inexhaustible supply of red ox- 
 ide and brown specular. This ore yields 
 60 per cent, of pure metal. The erection 
 of mills for making wrought-iron is con- 
 templated, and the high quality and pro- 
 digious quantity of the raw material will 
 justify and reward any outlay of capital 
 in this direction. 
 
 The shipment of ore to other States 
 goes on constantly, the account for 
 1870 showing that 246,555 tons were 
 dispersed over Indiana, Ohio, and oth- 
 ers. The furnaces at Kingsland, South 
 St. Louis, Lewis Iron Company's Works, 
 Carondclct, and Maramec, are all well 
 situated as to coal and limestone, the 
 Maramec Works havinjr a most valuable 
 
 water-power. These latter works also 
 ship about 40,000 tuns red hematite-ore 
 yearly. 
 
 EIVER3. 
 
 "The Missosiri is fully described 
 in Lake and River Tour, No. III. 
 
 Xfiie Yellowstone, one of the- 
 principal tributaries of the Missouri, rises 
 in the same range of mountains with the 
 main stream. It enters from the south 
 by a mouth S50 yards wide, and is a broad 
 and deep river, having a course of about 
 1,600 miles. (See chapter on Montana.) 
 
 TT8te IPlatte, another tributary of 
 the Missouri, rises in the same range of 
 mountains with the parent stream, and, 
 measured by its meanderings, is supposed 
 to have a course of about 2,000 miles, 
 before it joins that river. At its mouth 
 it is nearly a mile wide, but is very 
 shallow, and is not navigable, except at 
 its highest floods. (See page 97.) 
 
 TTIie Kansas, or Kaio River, is a 
 very large tributary, having a course of 
 about 1,200 miles, and is navigable for 
 most of the distance. (See chapter on 
 Kansas.) 
 
 'ITIie Osage is a large and important 
 branch of the Missouri ; it is navigable 
 for 200 miles, and interlocks with the wa- 
 ters of the Arkansas. 
 
 Tlae dasconatlc, navigable for 
 66 miles, is important from having on its 
 banks extensive pine-forests, from which 
 the great supply of plank and timber of 
 that kind is brought to St. Louis. 
 
 MO TTTE I. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO KANSAS CITY. 
 
 Via St. Louis & Kansas City Dioision of 
 North Missouri Railway. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis : Ferguson, ] 1 
 miles; Bridgeton, 15; Brotherton, 20; 
 St. Charles, 21; Dardenne, 30; O'Fal- 
 lon, 34 ; Wentzville, 43 ; Millville, 49 ; 
 Wright's, 52; Warrenton, 58; Pendle- 
 ton, 64 ; Jonesburg, 68 ; High Hill, 73 ; 
 New Florence, 77 ; Montgomery, 83 ; 
 Wellsville, 90 ; Martinsburg, 95 ; Mexico, 
 109; Ceutralia Junction (connects with 
 Columbia Branch), 122; Sturgeon, 130; 
 Renick, 140; Moberly Junction (connects 
 with Iowa Division), 146 ; Huntsvillc, 
 153; Clifton, 160; Salisbury, 167.', 
 229 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 Keytesville, 174 ; Dalton, 178 ; Bruns- 
 wick (connects with Branch to Chilli- 
 cothe),186; Dewitt, 192; Miami, 19G ; 
 Carrollton, 209; Norborne, 218; Hardin, 
 226 ; Junction (connects with St. Jo- 
 seph Division), 232 ; Camden, 238 ; Or- 
 rick, 243 ; Missouri City, 252 : Liberty 
 Landing, 260 ; North Missouri Junction 
 (Junction of Kansas City Branch of Han- 
 nibal & St. Joseph Railway), 262 ; Har- 
 lem, 271 ; Kansas City (connects with 
 Kansas Pacific and with Missouri River, 
 Fort Scott & Gulf Railways), 272. 
 
 This railway traverses an exceedingly 
 fertile region, which it has been the 
 means of opening to settlement and de- 
 velopment. At Moberly it divides, one 
 branch running north and the other west. 
 As yet there are but few places of im- 
 portance on either line. 
 
 IIOUTE II. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO OTTUMWA, IOWA. 
 Via Iowa Division of North Missouri Railway. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis : Moberly Junc- 
 tion (connects with Kansas City and St. 
 Joseph Divisions), 146 miles from St. 
 Louis; Cairo, 152; Jacksonville, 158; 
 Macon (connects with Hannibal & St. 
 Joseph Railway), 168 ; Atlanta, 181 ; La 
 Plata, 190 ; Millard, 197 ; Kirksville, 204 ; 
 Sublctt's, 212; Green Top, 215; Queen 
 City, 219 ; Glenwood, 227 ; Coatesville, 
 235; Moulton, 242; Westgrove, 248; 
 Bloomfield, 256 ; Ottumwa (connects with 
 Des Moines Valley and Burlington & Mis- 
 souri River Railways), 276. 
 
 As far as Moberly Junction, this route 
 is the same as Route I. of Missouri. 
 
 Macon (169 miles). (See page 86.) 
 
 Ottumwa (276 miles). (See p. SO.) 
 
 MO UTE III. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO BELMONT. 
 
 Via St. Louis <& Iron Mountain Railway. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis : Carondelet, 7 
 miles from St. Louis ; Sulphur Springs, 
 21; Bailey, 33; De Soto, 43; Mineral 
 Point (connects with Branch, 4 miles 
 long, to Potosi), 61 ; Fotosi, 65 ; Bis- 
 marck (Branch to Pilot Knob diverges), 
 76; Knob Lick, 95; Marquand, 118; 
 Allenville, 147 ; Morlcy, 162 ; Charles- 
 ton, 178 ; Belmont (connects by ferry 
 230 
 
 with Mobile & Alabama Railway nt Co- 
 lumbus), 195. 
 
 This line of railway passes through a 
 rich iron-region. The tourist will find a 
 great variety of scenery, and much to in- 
 terest him in a trip. We have already 
 spoken (.see page 229) of the vast mineral 
 wealth of the country traversed by this 
 road. 
 
 MO UTE IV. 
 
 FROM ST. LOUIS TO NEOSHO. 
 
 Via Atlantic & Pacific and South Pacific 
 Railways. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis : Pacific, 37 miles 
 from St. Louis ; Catawissa, 42 ; Calvey, 
 44 ; Moselle, 49 ; St. Clair, 56 ; Staunton, 
 66; Sullivan, 71; Bourbon, 78; Leas- 
 burg, 83; Cuba, 91; Knobvicw, 98; St. 
 James, 104; Dillon, 109; Rolla, 114; 
 York's, 124; Arlington, 126; Jerome, 
 127 ; Dixon, 138 ; Hancock, 144 ; Crock- 
 er, 150; Woodend, 156; Richland, 163; 
 Stoutville, 171 ; Sleeper, 178 ; Lebanon 
 (Junction Laclede & Fort Scott Rail- 
 road, 110 miles), 185; Brush Creek, 194; 
 Conwav, 202 ; Niangua, 210 ; Marshfield, 
 217 ; Bunker Hill, 223 ; Strafford, 231 ; 
 Springfield, 241 ; Dorchester, 247 ; Brook- 
 line, 251 ; Plymouth, 261 ; Logan's, 266 ; 
 Aurora, 273 ; Verona, 278 ; Billings, 285 ; 
 Pierce City (Van Buren Branch, 125 
 miles), 291 ; Berwick, 296 ; Ritchieville, 
 302 ; Granby City, 307 ; Neosho, 315. 
 
 This road, generally spoken of as the 
 South Pacific Railway, was commenced as 
 the Southwest Branch of the Missouri Pa- 
 cific Railway, and for many years has had 
 to contend with delays and disappoint- 
 ments ot all kinds. It is now in a prosper- 
 ous condition and rapidly pushing west- 
 ward. For the most part it traverses a 
 beautiful, fertile, and salubrious country. 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 LEXINGTON TO ST. JOSEPH. 
 
 Via St. Joseph Division of North Missouri 
 Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Lexington : North Lexing- 
 ton, Junction (connects with St. Louis 
 & Kansas City Division), lour miles from 
 North Lexington ; Richmond, 9 ; Vib- 
 bard, 22 ; Lathrop (connects with Came- 
 
Lexington.] 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 [Clinton. 
 
 ron Branch of Hannibal & St. Joseph 
 Railway), 38; Gowcr, 55; St. Joseph 
 (connects with Kansas City, St. Joseph 
 & Council Bluflfs Railway), 76. 
 
 This short road is one of the two links 
 connecting Sedalia and St. Joseph, and 
 will eventually form a portion of a line 
 of road running diagonally across the 
 State, southeast of the latter of these 
 cities. 
 
 E icxinslnii, of which North Lex- 
 ington is the station, is on the south 
 bank of the Missouri River. It is the 
 capital of Lafayette, one of the richest 
 counties in the State. (For description, 
 see page 176.) 
 
 Richmond (9 miles) is five miles 
 beyond the crossing of the Western Divi- 
 sion of this road, which has been de- 
 scribed as Route I. of Missouri. Rich- 
 mond, the capital of Ray County, has a 
 population of between 2,000 and 3,000, 
 and is considered a place of some impor- 
 tance. 
 
 J8>:ai Hero p (38 miles) is situated on a 
 fertile prairie, admirably suited to the 
 cultivation of fruits. It is the crossing 
 of the Cameron Branch of the Hannibal 
 & St. Joseph Railway. 
 
 St. Joseph (76 miles). (Sec page 
 86.) 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 CAMERON TO KANSAS CITY. 
 
 Via Cameron & Kansas City Branch of Han- 
 nibal & St. Joseph Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Cameron, 172 miles from 
 Quincy, Illinois ; Lathrop, 15 miles from 
 Cameron (connects with St. Joseph Branch 
 of North Missouri Railway) ; Kearney, 29 ; 
 Liberty, 39 ; Harlem, 51 ; Kansas City 
 (connects with railways diverging), 53. 
 
 This road was completed in 1857, and 
 as yet none of the towns along its line 
 have attained any especial prominence. 
 For 20 miles the line is through high, 
 rolling prairie-lands, the road running on 
 the west side of Shoal Creek. The rest 
 of the line is through a timbered country. 
 
 Cameron (172 miles) from Quincy, 
 Illinois, has been described in Route XVI. 
 (See page 86.) 
 
 l«athrop (15 miles). (Seepage 231.) 
 
 Harleni (51 miles) is au unimpor- 
 tant village. 
 
 Kansas City (53 miles) has been 
 described in Route XVI. (Sec page 89.) 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 8T. JOSEPH TO HOPKINS. 
 
 Via Marysville Branch of Kansas City, St. 
 Joseph & Council Bluffs Railway. 
 
 Stations. — St. Joseph: Savannah, 15 
 miles from St. Joseph; Barnard, 31; 
 Maryville, 45 ; Hopkins (connects with 
 stage-lines to Clarinda, Bedford, and 
 places in Iowa), 61. 
 
 St. Joseph. (See page 86.) 
 
 Savannah (15 miles) is the capi- 
 tal of Andrew County. It is a small, but 
 a pleasant and prosperous village. 
 
 Maryville (45 miles), the capital of 
 Nodaway County, is at present a very 
 small village ; but, being on the line of a 
 proposed road from Chillicothe to Coun- 
 cil Bluffs, is destined to become a place 
 of some importance. 
 
 Hopkins (61 miles) is only of im- 
 portance as being the point of departure 
 for several stage-lines. The road con- 
 nects here with a branch of the Burling- 
 ton & Missouri Railroad, which puts it iu 
 direct communication with Chicago. 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 SEDALIA, MO., TO FORT SCOTT, KAN- 
 SAS. 
 
 Via Sedalia Division Missouri, Kansas & 
 Texas Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Sedalia, 188 miles from St. 
 Louis (connects with Pacific Railway of 
 Missouri): Green Ridge, 12; Windsor, 
 21 ; Calhoun, 29 ; Clinton, 40 ; Montrose, 
 53; Appleton City, 59; Rockville, 67; 
 Nevada, 90; Fort Scott (connects with 
 Missouri River, Fort Scott & Gulf Rail- 
 way), 111. 
 
 Sedalia, Mo., 188 miles from St. 
 Louis, has been described in Route XVII. 
 (See page 88.) 
 
 Clinton, Mo. (40 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Henry County, called the "model 
 town " of Western Missouri, is an enter- 
 prising place, having a population of 
 about 3,500, lying in the heart of a fine 
 agricultural region. 
 
 Nevada, Mo. (90 miles), the capi- 
 231 
 
Fokt Scott.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Kansas. 
 
 tnl of Vernon County, is situated in an 
 ohl and well-settled portion of the State. 
 It was burned to the ground by the Con- 
 federates during the war, but has been 
 rebuilt, and is now a handsome village of 
 about 1,500 inhabitants. 
 
 B^ort Scott, lias. (Ill miles), 
 situated upon Marmiion River, an affluent 
 of the Omge Jiivcr, is the capital of Bour- 
 bon County. It was originally estab- 
 lished as a military post, in 1842, and is 
 still a great depot of army stores. In 
 1855 it was incorporated as a town, and 
 is now one of the most prosperous places 
 of Southern Kansas. It ranks as the 
 fifth city of the State, having a popula- 
 tion of over 6,000, and a trade that many 
 an older place might envy. It has two 
 
 daily papers, six fine churches, a large 
 woollen-mill, two banks, a founderv, two 
 llouring-mills, hotels, public school build- 
 ings, and many other things that go to 
 make up a healthy inland city. There is 
 abundance of timber, water, and coal in 
 the vicinity, and the farm-lands adjoin- 
 ing are unsurpassed in fertility. The 
 neighborhood of Fort Scott was the scene 
 of many thrilling adventures during the 
 early history of Kansas, when the Border 
 Ruffian troubles commenced. It was here 
 that Montgomery gathered his men to- 
 gether preparatory to his raid into Mis- 
 souri in 1857. Among the curiosities of 
 Fort Scott is a well of fire, where the 
 flames mount almost as high as a man's 
 head. (See Appendix. ) 
 
 KANSAS 
 
 Kansas, one of the most promising of 
 the new States west of the Mississippi, is, 
 in length, from east to west, about 420 
 miles, and in breadth, from north to south, 
 200 miles. It lie3 between latitude 37° 
 and 40° north, and longitude 94° 40' and 
 102° west from Greenwich. The area is 
 81,318 square miles, or 52,043,520 acres, 
 being considerably greater than the com- 
 bined extent of Maine, New Hampshire, 
 Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, 
 and Connecticut. It is bounded eastward 
 by Missouri, northward by Nebraska, west- 
 ward by Colorado, and southward by New 
 Mexico and Indian Territory. It was or- 
 ganized as a Territory May 29, 1854, and 
 admitted as a State January 30, 1861. 
 
 The face of the country is beautiful 
 beyond comparison. The prairies, though 
 broad and expansive, stretching away 
 miles in many places, seem never lonely 
 or wearisome, being gently undulating, or 
 more abruptly rolling ; and, at the ascent 
 of each new roll of land, the traveller 
 finds himself in the midst of new loveli- 
 ness. There are also high bluffs, usually 
 at some little distance from the rivers, 
 running through the entire length of the 
 country, while ravines run from them to 
 the rivers. These are, at some points, 
 quite deep, and difficult to crosSj and, to 
 a traveller unacquainted with the coun- 
 282 
 
 try, somewhat vexatious, especially where 
 the prairie-grass is as high as the head 
 of a person seated in a carriage. There 
 is little trouble, however, if travellers 
 keep back from the water-courses, and 
 near the high lands. These ravines are, 
 in many instances, pictures of beauty, 
 with tall, graceful trees, cotton-wood, 
 black walnut, hickory, oak, elm, and lin- 
 wood, standing near, while springs of 
 pure cold water gush from the rock. The 
 bluff's are of a kind unknown in form 
 and appearance in any other portion of 
 the West. At a little distance, a person 
 can scarcely realize that Art had not added 
 her finishing touches to a work which 
 Nature had made singularly beautiful. 
 Many of the bluffs appear like the culti- 
 vated grounds about line old residences 
 within the Eastern States, terrace rising 
 above terrace with great regularity ; while 
 others look like forts in the distance. 
 In the eastern part of the State, most of 
 the timber is upon the rivers and creeks ; 
 though there are in sonic places most de- 
 lightful spots, high hills, crowned with a 
 heavy growth of trees, and deep vales, 
 where rippling waters gush amid a dense 
 shade of flowering shrubbery. 
 
 Higher than the blutfs are natural 
 mounds, which also have about them the 
 look of art. They rise to such a height as 
 
Climate.] 
 
 KANSAS. 
 
 [Kansas Riveii. 
 
 to be seen at a great distance, and add 
 peculiar beauty to the whole appearance 
 of the country. From the summit of these 
 the prospect is almost unlimited in ex- 
 tent, and unrivalled in beauty. The prai- 
 rie, for miles, with its gentle undulations, 
 lies before the eye. Rivers glistening in 
 the sunlight, flow on between banks 
 crowned with tall trees ; beyond these, 
 other high points arise. Trees are scat- 
 tered here and there, like old orchards, 
 and cattle in large numbers are grazing 
 upon the hill-side and in the valleys, 
 giving to all the look of cultivation and 
 home-life. It is, indeed, difficult to re- 
 alize that for thousands of years this 
 country has been a waste, uncultivated 
 and solitary, and that but a compara- 
 tively short time has elapsed since the 
 white settler has sought here for a 
 home. 
 
 Climate. — Professor Swallow, in his 
 geological report, says : " The climate of 
 Kansas is temperate and healthful. As 
 indicated by our position, and clearly 
 proved by a long series of meteorological 
 observations at our military posts, the 
 summers are long and temperate, and the 
 winters are short, mild, and dry, varie- 
 gated by a few cold days. But few coun- 
 tries have climates better adapted to 
 health, and the luxuriant growth of the 
 staple products of the temperate zone." 
 During the winter season of 1870 no feed- 
 ing of stock was necessary, the thermome- 
 ter varying in February from 60° to 15°, 
 and there was no frost in the ground. 
 The clear, dry atmosphere, and gentle, 
 health-giving breezes, are favorable to 
 out-door pursuits and pleasures. The 
 peculiar clearness of the atmosphere can 
 hardly be imagined by a non-resident. 
 For miles a person can clearly distin- 
 guish objects which at the same distance 
 in other parts of the country he could 
 not see at all. 
 
 Stock, Fruit, etc. — Kansas is unsur- 
 passed as a grazing region, and promises 
 to be the greatest stock-raising State of 
 the West. Fruit can be easily grown, 
 and can be sold at great profit. At the 
 National Pornological Congress, held at 
 Philadelphia, September 16, 1869, the 
 gold medal was awarded to Kansas for 
 the best fruit in the Union. The princi- 
 pal agricultural productions are corn, 
 
 wheat, rye, oats, tobacco, buckwheat, 
 hemp, and cotton. 
 
 Population. — The increase of popula- 
 tion in Kansas has been wonderful. On 
 its first enumeration in 1860, it was 107,- 
 206 ; in 1870 it was 379,497, an increase 
 of nearly 236 per cent. 
 
 Educational. — Besides the public 
 schools, Kansas has a State University, 
 an Agricultural College, a State Normal 
 School, a Blind Asylum, and a Deaf and 
 Dumb Asylum. The Methodist Church 
 have the Baker University ; the Congre- 
 gationalists, Washburn College ; the Uni- 
 ted Brethren, Lane University ; the Epis- 
 copalians, a female seminary ; the New- 
 School Presbyterians, Wetmore Institute ; 
 the Baptists, Ottawa University; the Old- 
 School Presbyterians, Highland Univer- 
 sity, and the Geneva Institute. The 
 Christian denomination is establishing a 
 college at Ottumwa. The Catholics have 
 two colleges, male and female, at Leaven- 
 worth, both large institutions ; they also 
 have schools at St. Mary's Mission, at 
 St. Bridget, and at the Osage Mission. 
 
 Minerals. — Coal and salt are very abun- 
 dant, being found in all parts of the 
 State, and almost everywhere are inex- 
 haustible supplies of rock, principally 
 sandstone and limestone. In the west- 
 ern portion of Kansas there are rich 
 quarries of the beautiful white magnesia 
 limestone. Lead is found in the south- 
 eastern portion of the State. 
 
 EIVEES, RAILWAYS, ETC. 
 
 The most important rivers in the State 
 are the Kansas, Republican, Smoky Hill, 
 Neosho, Arkansas, Solomon, Osage, Big 
 Blue, Verdigris, Great Nehema, Cotton- 
 wood, Saline, Stranger, Grasshopper, 
 Pottawatomie, Marmaton, Little Arkan- 
 sas, Wakarusa, and Cimeron, all of which 
 contain a great variety of fish. The 
 valleys of these streams are very rich. 
 
 The Kansas BBiver, sometimes 
 called the " Kaw," the largest stream of 
 this region, excepting the Missouri, which 
 washes its northeastern boundary, is 
 formed by the Republican and the Smoky 
 Hill Forks which rise in the Rocky 
 Mountains, and unite their waters at Fort 
 Riley. The length of the Kansas, in- 
 cluding its branches, is nearly 1,000 miles. 
 Its course is through a productive valley 
 233 
 
Arkansas River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Columbus. 
 
 region or plain, covered with forest-trees, 
 and varied here and there with pictu- 
 resque bluffs and hills. The Kansas 
 River is a tributary of the Missouri, and 
 steamboats ascend, in good stages of 
 water, from its mouth, 120 miles to Fort 
 Riley. 
 
 Tlic Arkansas River has 
 nearly half its course within the borders 
 of Kansas. 
 
 'ITne ©sage lEiver rises south of 
 the Kansas, and flows eastward nearly 500 
 miles to the Missouri, which it enters ten 
 miles below Jefferson City. 
 
 It is doubtful whether any State in the 
 Union has shown such energy and enter- 
 prise as Kansas in the construction of 
 railroads. There are now about 1,600 
 miles of railway in operation, penetrat- 
 ing the rich agricultural regions in every 
 direction. 
 
 RO UTE I. 
 
 KANSAS CITY TO BAXTER SPRINGS. 
 
 Via Missouri River, Fort Scott & Gulf Rail- 
 tvay. 
 
 Stations. — Kansas City (connects with 
 Santa Fe Division of Leavenworth, Law- 
 rence & Galveston Railway) : Shawnee 
 (connects with Sedalia Division Missouri, 
 Kansas & Texas Railway),9 miles ; Lenexa, 
 14 ; Olathe, 21 ; Ocheltree, 28 ; Spring Hill, 
 29; Hillsdale, 35; Paola, 42; Fontana, 
 53 ; Les Cygnes, 61 ; Barnard, 67 ; Pleas- 
 anton, "73 ; Prescott, 81 ; Osaga, 85 ; Fort 
 Scott (connects with the Sedalia Division 
 of Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway), 
 98; Godfrey, 104; Pawnee, 110; Dry- 
 wood, 116; Girard, 124; Limeston, 129; 
 Cherokee, 135; Coalfield, 140; Columbus, 
 147; Neutral, 153; Baxter, 159. 
 
 Kansas <Jity. (See page 89.) 
 
 Olathe (21 miles), the capital of 
 Johnson County, is in the midst of a 
 thickly-settled farming country, and con- 
 nects with the Santa Fe Division of the 
 Leavenworth, Lawrence <£* Galveston Rail- 
 way. It is a thriving place, with a popu- 
 lation of about 3,000. It is the scat of 
 the State Deaf and Dumb Asylum. 
 
 l*aola (42 miles), the capital of Mi- 
 ami County, is one of the most flourish- 
 ing and beautiful towns in the State. The 
 first building was erected in 1857, and 
 the population is now nearly 4,000. Coal 
 234 
 
 and timber, the latter in abundance, aro 
 found in the vicinity. Seven miles south- 
 west of this place is Ossaicatomir, the old 
 home of John Brown (whose soul is sup- 
 posed to be still " marching on " ), and the 
 seat of the State Insane Asylum. 
 
 Fontitna (53 miles) is a pretty vil- 
 lage in Miami County, of about 500 in- 
 habitants. The bcrgh is owned and 
 " run " by William Toms, an Englishman. 
 It has a newspaper edited by Mr. Vissher, 
 for many years amanuensis to the lato 
 George D. Prentice. 
 
 Hies Cygnes (61 miles) is a beau- 
 tiful prairie town, of about 600 inhabi- 
 tants, situated on the northern border of 
 Linn County. The land on which the place 
 is built formerly belonged to Indian heirs; 
 The first house was erected in the fall of 
 1869. The country in the neighborhood 
 is fertile and well-wooded. Like all new 
 Kansas towns, Les Cygnes has an organ, 
 in the way of a newspaper. 
 
 Plcasanton (73 miles), another 
 prosperous town in Linn County, is named 
 after General Pleasanton, who at this 
 place overtook General Price, on his re- 
 treat in 1864, and captured many prison- 
 ers, among whom was General Marma- 
 duke. In the summer of 1869 the town 
 site was a beautiful field of waving corn. 
 It now has a population of 1,000 inhabit- 
 ants, has been voted the county-seat, 
 publishes a good paper, and has a brisk 
 local trade. The neighboring mounds, 
 hills, and woodlands in the distance, 
 render the locality quite picturesque. 
 Coal is found in large quantities in the 
 vicinity. 
 
 Prescott (81 miles), a new town, is 
 the centre of a region with rich coal, of 
 which large quantities are shipped to 
 Kansas City. 
 
 l^ort Scott (98 miles). (See page 
 232.) 
 
 (jiirard (124 miles), the capital of 
 Crawford County, is situated in the centre 
 of a great expanse of prairie, on which 
 neither leaf nor shrub is to be seen. It is 
 almost in the centre of the Neutral Lands, 
 and many of the "Leaguers" have gone 
 into business there. It has a newspaper. 
 The population is about 600. 
 
 Coluinlius (147 miles) is a promis- 
 ing young town of about S0O inhabitants. 
 The portion of the Neutral Lands in 
 
Baxter Springs.] 
 
 KANSAS. 
 
 [Garnett 
 
 which it is situated is well adapted for 
 agricultural purposes. 
 
 Baxter Springs (159 miles), 
 the present terminus of the road, and the 
 capital of Cherokee County, is pleasantly 
 situated, and well supplied with timber 
 and water. It is just north of the line 
 of the rich Cherokee country, which it is 
 to be hoped that a railway to Texas will 
 soon open to civilization. The resi- 
 dent population is about 1,000. Baxter 
 Springs is a great shipping-point for 
 Texas cattle, and during the season is 
 crowded with drovers. A daily coach 
 leaves this point for Fort Gibson, and 
 connects with the lines which run to 
 Texas. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 KANSAS CITY TO ATC/TLSOK AND 
 WATER VILLE. 
 
 Via Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs 
 Railway and, Central Branch of Union Pa- 
 cific Railway. 
 
 Stations on Kansas Citt, St. Joseph 
 & Council Bluffs Railway. — Kansas 
 City : Harlem, 1 mile from Kansas City ; 
 Parkville, 10 ; East Leavenworth (con- 
 nects with Leavenworth Branch of Kan- 
 sas Pacific Railway), 25 ; Beverly, 30 ; 
 Weston, 33; Winthrop (connects with 
 ferry for Atchison, connecting there with 
 Central Branch of Union Pacific Rail- 
 way), 50. 
 
 Stations on Central Branch of 
 Union Pacific Railway. — Atchison, 51 
 miles from Kansas City; Farmington, 13 
 miles from Atchison; Monrovia, 15; Ef- 
 fingham, 18; Muscotah, 25; Whiting, 
 31 ; Netawaka, 37; Wetmore, 42; Sher- 
 man, 49 ; Corning, 56 ; Centralia, 62 ; 
 Vermilion, 70 ; Frankfort, 79 ; Barrett's, 
 82; Elizabeth, 85; Irving, 90; Blue 
 Rapids, 95 ; Waterville, 100. 
 
 Mausas City, ISo. (Sec page 
 89.) 
 
 I*arLrville, Mo. (10 miles), is 
 upon the eastern bank of the Missouri 
 River. It was founded in 1814, and is 
 chiefly built of limestone, there being 
 tine quarries in the neighborhood. 
 
 B3ast Leavenworth, Mo. (25 
 miles), is a small place connecting by 
 ferry with the Leavenworth Branch of the 
 Kansas Pacific Railway. 
 
 "Weston, Mo. (33 miles), pictu- 
 resquely situated upon the Missouri 
 River, was at one time a favorite start- 
 ing-point with emigrants for California. 
 It is a prosperous incorporated city. At 
 
 Wiiatnrop, Mo. (50 miles), pas- 
 sengers for Atchison cross the river by 
 ferry, which connects with the Central 
 Brayich of the Union Pacific Railway. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 LEAVENWORTH TO PARKER. 
 
 Via Learemcorth <& Lawrence Branch of Kan- 
 sas Pacific Railway, and Leavenworth, Law- 
 rence & Galveston Railway. 
 
 Stations on Leavenworth & Law- 
 rence Branch of Kansas Pacific Rail- 
 way. — Leavenworth : Leavenworth Junc- 
 tion, 4 miles ; Fairmount, 10 ; Big Stran- 
 ger, 16 ; Reno, 26 ; Leavenworth & Law- 
 rence Junction (connects with Kansas 
 Pacific Railway), 32 ; Lawrence (con- 
 nects with Leavenworth, Lawrence & 
 Galveston Railway), 34. 
 
 Stations on Leavenworth, Lawrence 
 & Galveston Railway. — Lawrence : 
 Sibley, 6 miles ; Vinland, 9 ; Baldwin 
 City, 14 ; Prairie City, 16 ; Norwood, 20 ; 
 Kansas City & Santa Fe Junction, 25 ; 
 Ottawa (connects with Kansas City & 
 Santa Fe Division), 27 miles from Leaven- 
 worth ; Princeton, 35; Richmond, 41; 
 Garnett, 51; Welda, 59; Divide, 67; 
 Carlyle, 73; Iola, 78; Humboldt (con- 
 nects with Missouri, Kansas & Texas 
 Railway), 86 ; Neosho, 91 ; Tioga and 
 Chicago, 94 ; Earleton, 101 ; Thayer, 
 108 ; Cherryvale, 124 ; Parker, 144. 
 
 Lawrence. (See page 90.) 
 
 Ottawa (27 miles), the capital of 
 Franklin County, is the largest and most 
 flourishing town on this line of road. It 
 is situated on the Marais des Cygnes 
 River, on a fine prairie eminence, with 
 plenty of woodland in the neighborhood. 
 A suspension-bridge, the only one in the 
 State, spans the river at this point. The 
 Ottawa University is located here, upon a 
 square mile of highly-cultivated land. 
 The first house was put up in 1864, and 
 the population is now about 3,500. Otta- 
 wa is the present terminus of the Kansas 
 City <£' Santa Fe Railway. 
 
 Garnett, Kas. (51 miles), the 
 capital of Anderson County, and a grow- 
 235 
 
Tola.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Neosho Falls. 
 
 ing, busy place, of about 2,500 inhabi- 
 tants, is situated on a rolling prairie, in 
 an excellent country that is rapidly fill- 
 ing up. 
 
 Sola (78 miles) is a pleasant town 
 of about 1,000 inhabitants, situated in 
 the midst of a fine agricultural region. 
 
 MaiH&E>ol«lt (86 miles), the capital 
 of Allen County, and a bustling little 
 town, connects with the Leavenworth, 
 Lawrence & Galveston, and Missouri, Kan- 
 sas <£• Texas Railways, the one coming in 
 on the west and the other on the east. 
 There is a U. S. land-office at this place. 
 The population of Humboldt is about 
 3,000. The lands in the neighborhood 
 are remarkably fertile. 
 
 Thayer (108 miles) is a prosperous 
 little place, and 
 
 1'arkcr (144 miles) is the present 
 terminus of the road. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 TOPEKA TO EMPORIA. 
 Via Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. 
 
 Stations. — North Topeka : Topeka, 1 
 mile from North Topeka ; Challenders, 
 6; Cottonwood Grove, 9 ; Wakarusa, 13 ; 
 Carbondale, 18 ; Gables, 22; Burlingame, 
 27 ; Peterton, 31 ; Osage City, 35 ; Arvo- 
 nia, 42; Reading, 46; Horton, 54; Em- 
 poria (connects with Missouri, Kansas & 
 Texas Railway), Gl ; Cottonwood, 136 ; 
 Florence, 156; Newton, 185; Wichita, 
 212; Dodge City, 352; Sargent, 467. 
 
 TVortli Topeka, 67 miles from 
 Kansas City, is the point at which the 
 road connects with the Kansas Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 Topeka (I mile). (See page 90.) 
 
 ISurliragame (27 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Osage County, is a pretty and 
 rapidly-improving town. It has a popu- 
 lation of about 800. Coal is plentiful in 
 the neighborhood. 
 
 Emporia (61 miles), the capital of 
 Lyon County, is one of the most impor- 
 tant places in Southern Kansas, and is 
 the scat of the State Normal School. It 
 connects here with the Missouri, Kansas <& 
 Texas Railway. The population is about 
 4,000. It has two papers — one a daily. 
 Emporia has been settled about twelve 
 years, and its fine buildings and wide 
 236 
 
 streets make it particularly attractive to 
 the stranger. The road is now com- 
 pleted upward of 400 miles west of 
 Emporia, traversing a rich but rather 
 monotonous range of country. Sargent, 
 the present terminus, is an unimportant 
 town. 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 JUXCTIOX CITY TO CHETOPA. 
 
 Via A T eosho Division of the Missouri, Kansas 
 & Texas Railway. 
 
 Stations. — Junction City : Skiddy, 13 
 miles; Parker's, 25; Council Grove, 37; 
 Rock Creek, 45 ; Americus, 52 ; Emporia 
 (connects with Atchison, Topeka & San- 
 ta Fe Railway), 61 ; Neosho Bapids, 69 ; 
 Hartford, 74; Ottumwa, 82; Burlington, 
 89 ; Leroy, 103 ; Neosho Falls, 107 ; 
 Humboldt (connects with Leavenworth, 
 Lawrence & Galveston Railway), 122 ; 
 New Chicago, 132; Ladore, 152; Day- 
 ton, 161; Oswego, 171; Chetopa, 180. 
 
 Junction City, Kas. (138 miles 
 from Kansas City). (See page 91.) 
 
 Council Grove (37 miles), an old 
 town, the county-seat of Morris County, 
 is situated on the headwaters of the 
 Neosho, surrounded by a good agricul- 
 tural district. In 1848, population about 
 800. 
 
 Emporia (61 miles from Junction 
 City). (See page 236.) 
 
 Ifiurlin^tora (89 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Coffey County, is a handsome and 
 flourishing little place, of about 1,500 in- 
 habitants, upon the banks of the Neosho 
 River, whence it derives the finest water- 
 power in the State. It is expected that 
 the town will be one of the stations on 
 the Ka7isas City <£ Santa Fe Railway, a 
 line now completed as far as Ottawa, the 
 capital of Franklin County. The coun- 
 try in the neighborhood of Burlington is 
 well settled. 
 
 Leroy (103 miles) is a pretty village 
 of about 1,000 inhabitants. The country 
 around is pleasingly diversified by prairie, 
 woodland, and stream, and the many 
 farm-houses, which meet the eye in all 
 directions, give it a homelike appearance. 
 
 Neosho B'-alBK (107 miles), the 
 capital of Woodson County, is named 
 after a water-fall in the locality. Tho 
 
New Chicago.] 
 
 NEBRASKA. 
 
 [Nebraska. 
 
 scenery in the neighborhood is wild and 
 picturesque, and the country well settled. 
 
 llniubolut (122 miles) has been 
 described in Route III. of Kansas. 
 
 New Chicago (132 miles) is a 
 thriving town at the junction of the Mis- 
 souri, Kansas & Texas liailwarj with the 
 Leavenworth, Lawrence & Galveston Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Oswego (171 miles), the capital of 
 Labette County, is a prosperous place, 
 of about 1,200 population. It is situated 
 on high prairie-land in a sparsely-settled 
 region. 
 
 Chetopa (180 miles), situated on 
 the banks of the Neosho, is a pretty and 
 
 rapidly-growing place, of about 1,500 
 inhabitants. The country around is be- 
 coming well settled. 
 
 MOUTE VI. 
 
 KANSAS CITY TO OTTA WA. 
 
 Stations. — Kansas City : Olathe, 21 
 miles ; Gardner, 29 ; Edgerton, 35 ; 
 Wellsville, 40 ; Le Loup, 45 ; Kansas 
 City & Santa Fe Junction, 51 ; Ottawa, 
 53. 
 
 ©latlie (21 miles) has been de- 
 scribed in Route I. of Kansas. 
 
 Ottawa (53 miles) has been 'de- 
 scribed in Route III. of Kansas. 
 
 NEBRASKA 
 
 Nebraska lies between 40° and 43° 
 north latitude, and embraces an area of 
 76,000 square miles. It is bounded on 
 the south by Kansas, on the east by the 
 Missouri River, on the north by Dakota, 
 and on the west by the Territory of 
 Wyoming. 
 
 The history of this young State may be 
 thus briefly stated : Up to 1712 Nebraska 
 formed a part of the great grant of the 
 Mississippi Valley to Crozart, and was 
 part of the territory included in Law's 
 Mississippi scheme. As a portion of the 
 Louisiana purchase it came into the pos- 
 session of the United States in 1803. The 
 first explorers of the territory, of whom 
 we have any authentic account, were 
 Lewis and Clark, who, after wintering at 
 Fort Mandan (1804-'5), crossed the Rocky 
 Mountains to Oregon. In 1854 the famous 
 Nebraska Bill, repealing the Missouri 
 Compromise, and limiting the extension 
 of slavery, was passed ; and on May 30th, 
 of the same year, the Territory was or- 
 ganized. It was, after much discussion, 
 admitted as a State, January, 186V. The 
 adjoining Territory of Dakota was formed 
 out of Nebraska in 1861. 
 
 In Nebraska there are no mountain 
 districts, and little rough or broken land. 
 The surface is one of regular undulation, 
 rising gradually as it extends westward 
 from the Missouri River. The Missouri 
 '-at low water — at the southern bound- 
 
 ary, is about 780 feet above the sea ; at 
 the northeastern angle, at Sioux City, 
 1,065 feet; at the mouth of the Platte, 
 920 feet; Lincoln, the capital, is 1,622 
 feet; Fort Kearney, 2,225 feet. At the 
 western boundary the Platte is about 
 4,270 feet above the sea. 
 
 Along the Missouri the bluffs rise with 
 some abruptness to the height of fifty to 
 one hundred feet. From their tops the 
 prairie extends westward in long swells, 
 seldom so broken as to interfere with 
 cultivation. The country becomes less 
 and less rolling as it recedes from the 
 river, and at a distance of 100 to 150 
 miles from it the uplands spread out 
 into wide, flat prairies, varied only by 
 the valleys and strips of bottom-lands 
 bordering the larger streams. Along the 
 Missouri, the bluffs are at most points 
 easily passed by the wagon, while along 
 the interior streams they are of less 
 height and of gentle ascent. The nu- 
 merous streams throughout the State are 
 bordered by wide and fertile strips of 
 bottom-land, which they traverse in deep- 
 cut channels, seldom, and only at long in- 
 tervals, overflowing. 
 
 The surface is in general free from 
 bowlders, but they are, however, found at 
 a few points in the sharp " breaks," or 
 ridges, about the heads of the streams. 
 A well-defined line of quarries and gran- 
 ite, gravel and bowlders, is found along 
 237 
 
Platte River.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Republican River. 
 
 the general course of the Blue River, 
 Stretching as far to the northwest, be- 
 yond the Platte, as the country has been 
 explored. 
 
 The climate of Nebraska is not sur- 
 passed in the latitude in which it lies. It 
 is dry and health-giving. The winter is 
 short, mild, and open, the sun seldom 
 clouded, very little rain or snow falls, and 
 the latter rarely remains on the ground 
 but a few days. 
 
 The soil is a vegetable mould charged 
 with lime, and is from eighteen inches to 
 two feet in depth — accumulated from the 
 decayed vegetation of centuries. It is a 
 light, rich soil, black and loamy, but 
 never clammy or lumpy, and more resem- 
 bles a compost of artificially -prepared 
 garden-mould than a wild and virgin soil 
 of Nature's own compounding. It rests 
 upon a subsoil of porous, yellowish clay, 
 which has the property of receiving and 
 holding w r ater like a sponge. 
 
 By climate and soil Nebraska is well 
 adapted to the culture of the cereals, the 
 growth of root-crops, or the raising of 
 stock. In the production of small grains 
 it especially excels. As shown by the 
 Report of the Commissioner of Agricul- 
 ture, the average yield of wheat is 17. 7 
 bushels per acre. 
 
 Tlie population of Nebraska in 1870 
 was 123,000; the total valuation of real 
 estate and personal property in the State 
 is given bv the census as $55,719,432, 
 against $7,426,949 in 1860. 
 
 EIVERS. 
 
 The Missouri. {See Lake and 
 River Tour, No. III.) 
 
 The l'latte flows entirely across 
 the State from west to east, dividing it 
 into two nearly equal parts. The valley 
 of the Platte is traversed through its 
 whole extent by the Union Pacific Rail- 
 way. To the distance of 100 miles from 
 the Missouri, the public lands are all 
 taken up. The principal tributaries from 
 the north are the Loupe Fork, the valley 
 of which is not yet open to settlement, 
 and the Elkhorn. The latter stream 
 rise3 in the northern part of the State, 
 and flows southeasterly for 100 miles, 
 through a valley well timbered, and wa- 
 tered by many tributary streams. The 
 Elkhorn empties into the Platte about 50 
 238 
 
 miles above its mouth. A railroad is 
 now being opened through this valley, 
 10 miles of which, northward from Fre- 
 mont, are now completed. 
 
 The principal tributary from the south 
 is the Salt, which rises in the southwest- 
 ern part of Lancaster County, and, flow- 
 ing through a very fertile valley, passes 
 the Great Salt Basin and the State capi- 
 tal, and falls into the Platte about 30 
 miles above its mouth. The Salt receives 
 many tributary streams which water fer- 
 tile valleys. The valley of the Salt is 
 rapidly settling up, and is destined to be 
 one of the wealthiest and most populous 
 portions of the State. 
 
 The Niobrara, L'Eau qui Court, 
 or swift-running water, forms a part of 
 the northern boundary of the State. The 
 valley is the smallest and least knowo of 
 the three principal divisions named ; only 
 a small portion of it is open to settlement. 
 
 The Republican, after the 
 Platte, is the largest stream in the State. 
 It flows through the southwestern coun- 
 ties, into Kansas, about 140 miles west of 
 the Missouri. The upper part of the 
 Republican Valley is not yet fully sur- 
 veyed and open to settlement. In both 
 Kansas and Nebraska settlements have 
 extended westward upon other streams 
 farther than upon the Republican. 
 
 The Big Blue and the Little Blue are 
 streams, of some importance, watering 
 what is considered by many the most 
 beautiful portion of the State. They rise 
 in the central part of Nebraska, near the 
 Platte, and flow southeasterly, uniting iu 
 Kansas. Other rivers worthy of mention 
 are the Great Nchema and the Little 
 Neliema. 
 
 RAILWAYS. 
 
 TJie Union Pacific Hallway, which 
 traverses the State, is fully described in 
 Through Route XVIII. 
 
 The following roads are constructing : 
 T/ie Omaha & Northwestern (from 
 Omaha to West Point, thence up the 
 Elkhorn to the mouth of the Niobrara) 
 looks to an extension and junction with 
 the Northern Pacific, to bringing the 
 trade of the Elkhorn Valley and a share 
 of the trade of Montana and the North- 
 western Territories to Omaha, where it 
 properly belongs. 
 
Railways.] 
 
 NEBRASKA. 
 
 [Blair. 
 
 TJie Elkhorn Valley Railway (from 
 Fremont on the Union Pacific, up the 
 Elkhorn to the mouth of the Niobrara) 
 opens to market the lovely valley of the 
 Elkhorn. A southern extension of this 
 road to Lincoln is contemplated. 
 
 The Burlington & Missouri Railway 
 in Nebraska (from Plattsmouth by Lin- 
 coln to a junction with the Union Pacific, 
 near Fort Kearney) is finished to Fort 
 Kearney, where a junction is made with 
 the Pacific Railroad. From Plattsmouth 
 its connections are east, north, and south, 
 over the roads centring there. 
 
 T/ie Midland Pacific, from Nebraska 
 City through Lincoln, to a junction with 
 the Union Pacific road near Fort Kear- 
 ney, or over a more southerly line to 
 Denver. Its connection at Nebraska 
 City is over the St. Joseph & Council 
 Bluffs, or the Burlington & Missouri. 
 The State Line road, now being built 
 across the State of Iowa, will be its prin- 
 cipal connection east when finished. This 
 is a link in the transcontinental line of 
 road now being developed under the in- 
 fluence of the Pennsylvania Central Rail- 
 way. Another important connection will 
 be the Clinton & Nebraska City Railway, 
 now being pushed forward from Clinton, 
 Iowa. 
 
 RO UTE I. 
 
 OMAHA TO LINCOLN. 
 
 Via Omaha & Southwestern and Burlington 
 & Missouri Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Omaha : La Platte, 16 miles ; 
 Omaha Junction (connects by ferry with 
 Burlington & Missouri Railway in Ne- 
 braska, over which trains run to Lin- 
 coln), 21 ; Lincoln, 67. 
 
 Omaha, Junction (21 miles). 
 (See page 95.) 
 
 Lincoln. (67 miles), the capital of 
 the State, is a handsome place, centrally 
 located in the beautiful county of Lan- 
 caster. Three years ago, where the 
 town stands, there were but three small 
 houses, and the country for many miles 
 around was little else than a vast Indian 
 hunting-ground. Now every foot of 
 available government land in the county 
 is taken, and is being rapidly improved. 
 The population in 1871 was about 3,000, 
 having doubled in one year. Besides 
 
 the State-House, a handsome edifice of 
 white limestone now building at a cost of 
 $100,000, there are located in this place 
 most of the State institutions, among 
 whith are the State University and Agri- 
 cultural College, a fine brick building, to 
 cost $152,000, the Asylum for the Insane, 
 and the Penitentiary. Lincoln promises 
 to be an important railroad centre. One* 
 railway from Plattsmouth, on the Mis- 
 souri, through this city, is finished to 
 Fort Kearney on the Union Pacific Rail- 
 road, across the continent. Another, 
 from Nebraska City to Denver, is pro- 
 gressing, and will lay its iron to Lincoln 
 in a short time. 
 
 MO UTE II. 
 
 RJJLO TO PAWNEE CITY. 
 
 Via Burlington, Itulo <b Southwestern Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Tnis road is projected to run across 
 the southern counties to Denver. The 
 route beyond Pawnee City is not fully 
 determined. It will probably go to Bea- 
 trice, and thence, perhaps, up the Re- 
 publican River. This part of the State 
 is in great need of a railway. 
 
 l&ulo is an active town on the Mis- 
 souri River. 
 
 Pawnee City, the capital of 
 Pawnee County, is well located, in the 
 neighborhood of coal and good water- 
 power, and plenty of timber. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 FREMONT TO BLAIR. 
 Via, Fremont & Blair Railway. 
 
 This road is a cut-off from the Chicago 
 & Northwestern at Blair to the Union 
 Pacific at Fremont. 
 
 Fremont, a promising town of 
 about 4,000 inhabitants, is the outlet of 
 trade for the beautiful valley of the Elk- 
 horn. It is at the junction with the 
 Union Pacific and the Elkhorn Valley 
 Railways. (See page 97.) 
 
 ISlair (25 miles) is an active town 
 on the Missouri River. 
 
 Nel»raslca City, the second town 
 of the State, is on the west bank of the 
 Missouri, 86 miles south of Omaha by 
 239 
 
Nebraska City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Dakota. 
 
 river. It is prettily situated on rising 
 grouad, and commands some fine views. 
 Before the building of the Union Pacific 
 Railway it was the principal starting- 
 point of the overland travel and freight- 
 ing business. From the loss of this 
 trade Nebraska City suffered severely, 
 but the agricultural development of the 
 surrounding country and the railway 
 interests here centring have recently 
 caused a revival, and healthy and rapid 
 growth of the town. A low estimate of 
 its present population is 8,000. The 
 city is the seat of the Episcopal bishop 
 of the diocese, and contains fine church- 
 es, school-houses, and public buildings. 
 Jt is the starting-point of the Midland 
 Pacific Railway to Fort Kearney, which 
 is one of the short-line Pacific connec- 
 tions now being developed under the 
 control and influence of the Pennsylvania 
 Central Railway Co. The Nebraska City 
 & Southwestern, and the Nebraska City & 
 Northwestern, are now projected by its 
 business enterprise, and will be built to 
 open, develop, and make tributary the 
 interior of the State. The Burlington & 
 Missouri River Railway, in Iowa, has 
 completed a branch from Red Oak to 
 this place. The Iowa State Line, and the 
 Clinton (Iowa) & Nebraska City, are now 
 being built, and will soon be completed. 
 (See page 1*78.) 
 
 Plnttsmoutli, the capital of Cass 
 County, is on the Missouri, l£ mile be- 
 low the mouth of the Platte, and 38 
 miles, by water, south of Omaha. It, 
 has a good landing, and a population of 
 about 3,000. The Burlington & Missouri 
 Railway crosses the Missouri at this 
 place. A railroad bridge is to be built 
 across the river. 
 
 Falls C?ity, on the Great Nehema, 
 and on the line of the Burlington, South- 
 ern, Nehema Valley & Loup Fork Rail- 
 ways, is a thriving young city of about 
 1,000 population. It is in the centre of 
 an unsurpassed agricultural region, well 
 supplied with timber, coal, and good 
 water-power. 
 
 Beatrice, an interior town, on the 
 Little Blue River, promises to be a place 
 of some importance, being situated in the 
 midst of a fertile farming region, where 
 there is abundance of excellent building- 
 stone, fine magnesian limestone, and very 
 good water-power. It is on the line of 
 the Burlington & Missouri Railway in 
 Nebraska. 
 
 Ashland (30 miles from Platts- 
 mouth) is a prosperous town, of about 
 1,000 population, surrounded by a rich 
 and rapidly-improving agricultural coun- 
 try. Magnesian limestone of a superior 
 quality is found in abundance in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 DAKOTA. 
 
 Dakota was organized as a Territory 
 March 2, 1861. It is situated directly west 
 of Minnesota and on the northwestern part 
 of Iowa. It has absorbed much of the 
 western part of the old Territory of Min- 
 nesota, and of the eastern part of Ne- 
 braska. Its length from east to west is 
 about 750 miles, and its area 152,000 
 square miles. The western part of the 
 Territory is very mountainous. The 
 Rocky Mountain range extends along the 
 western boundary. The Black Hills, 
 which belong to the Rocky Mountain 
 range, traverse the more central and 
 southern portion. Fremont's Peak and 
 Laramie Teak belong to this range. The 
 principal rivers are the Missouri, the Red 
 240 
 
 River of the North, and the North Fork 
 of the Platte. The Missouri washes the 
 eastern and southern border, and drains 
 a large portion of the Territory. (See Lake 
 and River Tour, No. III.) The climate 
 of Dakota is healthful and genial, and 
 the soil is well suited to agricultural 
 and grazing purposes, being rich iu 
 the yield of grain, fruits, and vegeta- 
 bles. The first white settlements were 
 made in 185S-'59, at Sioux Falls, Vermil- 
 ion, and Yankton. The Yankton and the 
 Ponca Indians, also the Winnebago, the 
 Sioux, and the Santee tribes (recently re- 
 moved from Minnesota), have extensive 
 reservations on the Missouri River and 
 on the Niobrara above Yankton. They 
 
Yankton.] 
 
 COLORADO. 
 
 [Colorado. 
 
 are reported to be partially domesticated, 
 and to be devoting themselves to agricul- 
 ture and stock-raising. Dakota has nu- 
 merous lakes, the largest of which is 
 Winni-Waken or Devil Lake. The prin- 
 cipal avenues of travel to and through 
 the Territory are by boat up the Missouri 
 River to Yankton, or by the overland 
 mail line to Fort Laramie. The Northern 
 Pacific Railway traverses the northern 
 portion of Dakota, and will greatly de- 
 velop the resources of the Territory. It 
 has now reached Bismarck, on the Mis- 
 souri River. 
 
 The population of Dakota is given by 
 the census of 1870 as 14,181. The total 
 valuation of real estate and personal prop- 
 erty is put at $2,814,029. 
 
 "i'suslifioia, the capital, is situated 
 on the west bank of the Missouri, 7 miles 
 
 above the mouth of the Dakota River, 
 and 65 miles north of the Iowa line. 
 Population about 1,200. {See page 178.) 
 
 The other principal settlements arc Big 
 Sioux Point, Elk Point, Maley Creek, Ver- 
 milion, Bonhomme, Greenwood, and Fori 
 Randall. Fort Abercrombie is on the Red 
 River of the North, near the Minnesota 
 line. 
 
 ESissraiarcli: is where the Northern 
 Pacific Railroad crosses the Missouri 
 River, and for this reason will probably be- 
 come the principal commercial point in the 
 Territory. It will be the starting-point 
 for steamers both up and down the river. 
 
 Vermilion is on the Missouri 
 River, 30 miles southeast of Yankton, 
 near the mouth of the Big Sioux River. 
 At this place is located the United States 
 land-office for the Territory. 
 
 COLORADO 
 
 Colorado was organized as a Territo- 
 ry on March 2, 1861. It has an area of 
 106,475 square miles. It lies directly 
 west of Kansas, and comprises the west- 
 ern part of the old Territory of Kansas, 
 and portions of the former Territories of 
 Nebraska, New Mexico, and Utah. But 
 little was known of this region till 1858, 
 when mining operations were first com- 
 menced. Of the progress that has been 
 made in the mining districts since that 
 time we shall have occasion to speak 
 presently. 
 
 As yet, the cultivation of the soil in 
 Colorado is principally confined to the 
 valleys near the streams. The crops of 
 1867 were large enough to supply the 
 wants of the Territory, and since that 
 time it has been exporting grain and 
 produce to the Missouri River towns, to 
 the military stations on the Union and 
 Kansas Pacific Railways, and to the min- 
 ing regions of Wyoming and Montana. 
 During the fall of' 1870, over 1,000 bar- 
 rcls of Colorado flour were shipped to 
 Kansas City and St. Louis. It is con- 
 sidered of better quality than that ob- 
 tained from Southern Illinois wheat. 
 Dairy products are also important in 
 yield and quality. Colorado ranch but- 
 ter and cheese are premium products, 
 11 
 
 and bring from five to fifteen cents a 
 pound more than any other. The Ter- 
 ritory is now self-supplying in the whole 
 range of agriculture, except in fruit, 
 which California and Utah provide. 
 
 Stock-raising is an important industry 
 in Colorado. The best grazing-lands are 
 along the South Platte and its mountain 
 tributaries, and the Arkansas. The lat- 
 ter courses through Southern Colorado, 
 and along its valley the great herds are 
 mostly pastured. They are driven north 
 in the spring and shipped to Chicago and 
 St. Louis for beef. A late estimate shows 
 that there are now in the Territory about 
 250,000 head of cattle and 75,000 sheep. 
 During the fall of 1870 large droves 
 were shipped East. A new business has 
 lately been commenced in Denver, that of 
 shipping dressed beef to Chicago. About 
 two car-loads of wool and ten of hides 
 are shipped east from Denver every 
 month. 
 
 Timber is found only in small quanti- 
 ties in the Territory. 
 
 Population and Wealth. — In 1860 the 
 population of Colorado was 34,277 ; and 
 in 1870, 39,706. There were times in 
 1861-62 when it reached 60,000. This 
 decrease is not uncommon in mining 
 Territories. It speaks of an unsettled 
 241 
 
Mining Districts.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mining Districts. 
 
 population, swelling in at the reports of 
 new discoveries, and surging out, lor 
 better pay elsewhere, carrying with it 
 the growth of previous years. 
 
 The total valuation of real estate and 
 personal property in the Territory is 
 given by the census of 1870 as $17,022,- 
 CS6. Colorado has 365 miles of railroad 
 within its borders, of which 228 miles 
 were constructed in 1870. Its mining 
 products for that year foot up $3,750,- 
 000, its crops $4,551,000, and its manu- 
 factures $1,225,000. 
 
 The Arkansas River and the South 
 Fork of the Platte, which both rise near 
 the centre of the Territory, drain the 
 eastern part of Colorado. The Yampa 
 or Rear River, the Bunkara, and the 
 Gunnison, flow from the western slopes 
 of the Rocky Mountains. The Rio Grande 
 rises in the Territory, and flows south- 
 ward into the Gulf of Mexico. The 
 Bunkara and the Gunnison Rivers form 
 the Grand River, which is a branch of 
 the Colorado. 
 
 THE MINING DISTRICTS. 
 
 Gold and silver are found in large 
 quantities in the central parts of Colo- 
 rado. A strip of fifty miles wide along 
 the slope, from the northern to the south- 
 ern border of the Territory, will take in 
 about all the peopled and producing 
 parts. All the important mineral devel- 
 opments, the best farms, and the princi- 
 pal towns, lie within this belt. Here are 
 Denver, Central City, Georgetown, Rlack 
 Hawk, Nevada, Idaho, Cariboo, Boulder, 
 Golden, Pueblo, Colorado City, Greeley, 
 Trinidad, and Canon City. The SoiUh 
 Platte, with its tributaries, the Big Thomp- 
 son, Cache la Poudre, Cherry Creek, and 
 the Arkansas, with its numerous branches, 
 are more farmed within this area than 
 over all the rest of their great extent. 
 The mining - regions are situated, with 
 hardly an exception, in the midst of the 
 most beautiful scenery, and the indus- 
 tries and population of these parts have 
 given birth to mountain towns numbering 
 thousands of inhabitants, and remarkable 
 for picturesque beauty. To many of 
 these centres, situated high up among 
 the fastnesses of the range, narrow-gauge 
 railroads now extend, and other;; are in 
 212 
 
 process of construction. Concord stages 
 connect with the roads to points of inter- 
 est. The traveller now has choice of 
 several routes, lie may take the rail- 
 road to Boulder Creek and Boulder City 
 on the north, and view the mining camps 
 of that fast-expanding quarter. He may 
 take another railway trip to Golden City, 
 a growing town lying nearly due west at 
 the foot of the mountains, and thence by 
 rail up the North Clear Creek Valley to 
 Black Hawk and Central City. Another 
 stage route for the south strikes into the 
 mountains on what is called the Mount 
 Vernon road ; thence into the South 
 Clear Creek Valley below Idaho ; thence 
 up the Clear Creek Valley to Georgetown, 
 tho centre of the silver-mining region. 
 Still farther south, where Bear Creek 
 and Turkey Creek issue from the moun- 
 tains, is the road that leads up into the 
 South Park country. The placer mines 
 of Summit County have grown into im- 
 portance, and their annual yield is placed 
 at $500,000. The new Grand Island 
 District, of which Cariboo is the capital, 
 lying in the edge of Boulder County, 
 within six months of its discovery yield- 
 ed $275,000. The South Park mines 
 have turned out richly. The receipts at 
 the Branch Mint, at Denver, from all the 
 mines of the Territory, for the year end- 
 ing December 1, 1870, were $1,125,000. 
 Coal and iron mining has become of 
 late an important interest in the Territory. 
 Between the South Boulder and Golden 
 the coal-seams cover an area of twenty 
 square miles. Openings have been made 
 in many places, always revealing work- 
 able coal in beds from five to sixteen feet 
 in thickness. Throughout the Boulder 
 coal-region arc valuable deposits of iron- 
 ore, consisting of hydrates and red hema- 
 tites, free from phosphorus, and of the 
 purest kinds, well adapted to the manu- 
 facture of steel. The quantity of surface 
 ore is estimated at one hundred thousand 
 tons. Two and one-third tons of roasted 
 ore produce one ton of iron. The local- 
 ity where these iron-mines are found is 
 convenient for limestone (used as a llux 
 in smelting the ores), sand for moulding, 
 grit-stones for building purposes, and 
 fire-clay. The coal is comparatively free 
 from sulphur. Coking-works have been 
 established near one of the brinks, and 
 
The Parks.] 
 
 COLORADO. 
 
 [The Tares. 
 
 at another experiments have been made 
 in smelting the iron-ore, which is found 
 to yield from seventy to eighty per cent, 
 of pure metal. The experiments thus 
 far made show that, for the production 
 of one ton of pig-iron, three tons of the 
 ore, two hundred pounds of limestone, 
 and from one hundred and thirty to one 
 and fifty bushels of clear coal are re- 
 quired. It is estimated that the area 
 over which these iron deposits abound is 
 fifty square miles. 
 
 THK GREAT NATURAL PARKS. 
 
 The surface of the Territory is gener- 
 ally mountainous, but in the eastern and 
 northwestern parts are elevated plains. 
 The spurs or branches of the Rocky 
 Mountains enclose large fertile valleys, 
 known as the North Park, Middle Park, 
 South Park, and San Luis Park. 
 
 Nortli H*»irl£:, lying in the extreme 
 northern part of the Territory, has been 
 less explored aud settled than the rest, 
 owing to its remote situation and colder 
 climate. It offers, for these reasons, the 
 first attractions to the sportsman and ad- 
 venturer ; its streams are stocked with 
 fish, and its forests and hill-sides abound 
 with bears, deer, wolves, and antelopes. 
 
 I*Ii«l«lle l^arlc is directly south 
 of North Park, from which it is separated 
 by one of the cross-chains of the great 
 mountain labyrinth. It is 50 miles wide 
 by 70 miles long. The snow-range or 
 continental divide sweeps around on its 
 eastern side, but it is completely encir- 
 cled by majestic mountains. Long's 
 Peak, Gray's Peak, and Mount Lincoln, 
 from 13,000 to 14,500 feet high, stand 
 sentinels about it. It is drained by Blue 
 River and the head-waters of Grand Riv- 
 er, flowing westward to the Colorado. 
 Middle Park is really made up of a series 
 of smaller parks, each somewhat inde- 
 pendent of the others. The portions not 
 covered by forests expand into broad, 
 open meadows, the grasses of which are 
 interspersed with wild-flowers of nearly 
 every hue. 
 
 Spoilt h I*arSc, the best known and 
 probably the most beautiful of all the 
 parks, lies below. The continental di- 
 vide embraces it on the west. It is 60 
 miles long and 30 wide, and, like the 
 
 Middle Park, surrounded on all sides by 
 gigantic ranges of mountains, whose cul- 
 minating crests tower above the line of 
 perpetual snow. It is well watered and 
 timbered ; the climate is delightful, and 
 the scenery magnificent. Good roads and 
 trails traverse it in several directions. 
 
 San JLais IParlc, in Southern 
 Colorado, is the largest. It embraces an 
 area of nearly eighteen thousand square 
 miles — about twice the size of New Hamp- 
 shire. On the east it is flanked by the 
 Cordilleras, on the west by the Sierra 
 Mimbrcs, two vast and lofty mountain- 
 chains. It is watered by thirty - five 
 streams descending from the encircling 
 snow-crests. Nineteen of these flow into 
 San Luis Lake, a beautiful sheet of wa- 
 ter near the centre of the park, while the 
 others discharge their waters into the Rio 
 del Norte, in its course to the Gulf of 
 Mexico. On the flanks of the great 
 mountains dense forests of pine, fir, 
 spruce, aspen, hemlock, oak, cedar, and 
 pifion, alternate with broad, natural 
 meadows, producing a luxuriant growth 
 of nutritious grasses. The plains are 
 dotted with timber, but are for the most 
 part clothed with grasses, upon which 
 cattle subsist throughout the year, with- 
 out any other food, and requiring no 
 shelter. Thermal springs abound here, 
 as in many other parts of Colorado, gen- 
 erally highly charged with medicinal prop- 
 erties. 
 
 Monument Park, which is 
 much smaller than any of the others, at- 
 tracts many visitors. It is reached from 
 Monument, a station on the Rio Grande & 
 Denver road, and is about nine miles 
 from Colorado Springs. The park is 
 very striking. The visitor may readily 
 imagine himself in some vast cemetery, 
 filled with monuments cf a departed race. 
 Distributed principally upon one of the 
 bluffs enclosing the park, the mimic se- 
 pulchral sculpture stands up in almost ev- 
 ery conceivable variety of form. A close 
 examination of the " monuments " shows 
 that they are composed of a rather close 
 conglomerate, surmounted by an over- 
 hanging capital of darker color and hard- 
 er texture ; where this has fallen, the col- 
 umns are much more weather-worn, and 
 are evidently hastening rapidly to com- 
 plete disintegration. 
 
 243 
 
Denver.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Pdeblo, 
 
 Crnrdeii of tlie C«©«ls is a fanci- 
 ful title for a valley of small dimensions 
 lying four miles from Colorado Springs. 
 Its features are a number of shell-like 
 rocks, upheaved into perpendicular posi- 
 tion, some of them rising to about 350 
 feet in height. The road enters the Gar- 
 den, so called, through a narrow passage- 
 way between two towering but narrow 
 ledges of cliffs, and this entrance is desig- 
 nated the gate-way, although it is difficult 
 to determine the boundaries of the " Gar- 
 den." The rocks are mainly of a very 
 soft, brilliantly-red sandstone, although 
 one ridge of cliffs is of a white sandstone. 
 The foot-hills in the vicinity arc many of 
 them capped by similar upheavals, ridges 
 of serrated rock, while all about the main 
 cliff in the valley are numerous separate, 
 spire-like columns. At the entrance to 
 Glen Eyrie, a short distance from the Gar- 
 den, where General Palmer, president of 
 the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, has 
 built a beautiful mountain villa, are simi- 
 lar rocks, one of which stands like an 
 immense tower, several hundred feet 
 high, and not more than seven or eight 
 feet in thickness. These rock-forms arc 
 a phenomenal feature peculiarly attractive 
 to the geologist. 
 
 ItOUTE I. 
 
 DENVER <& RIO GRANDE RAILWAY. 
 
 Denver, which has already been 
 fully described on page 92, will naturally 
 be the tourist's starting-point, whatever 
 places he may wish to visit. From here 
 a narrow-gauge railroad — the first erect- 
 ed in the country — extends southward 
 117 miles to Senbler. It is designed to 
 extend it to Santa Fe. No stations of 
 importance are passed until Colorado 
 Springs are reached, 75 miles from Den- 
 ver. But the road is exceedingly inter- 
 esting the entire distance, affording as it 
 docs continually varying scenes of the 
 mountains, with Pike's Peak in view 
 nearly the entire distance. 
 
 The road crosses the " Divide," the 
 summit of which is 50 miles south of 
 Denver, a spur of the mountains 7,500 
 feel above tide-level, so called because 
 it divides the South Platte and the Ar- 
 kansas. 
 
 214 
 
 At the station "Monument" about P5 
 miles south from Denver, there is a hotel. 
 This point is in close proximity to " Monu- 
 ment Park." 
 
 i'olorado ^priB!g;§ is an im- 
 portant centre for the tourist, being 
 situated in close proximity to many 
 points of interest. The name is mis- 
 leading, however. No springs are sit- 
 uated within six miles of the spot, the 
 name being applied simply to an active 
 and flourishing town, laid out first in 
 1871. Concord coaches connect with 
 every train for the springs, six miles dis- 
 tant, where there are several hotels, the 
 " Manitou House " being the most prom- 
 inent. This hotel is a fashionable sum- 
 mer resort ; it is situated among the 
 foot-hills at the base of Pike's Peak, 
 and affords a good point of departure 
 for this mountain. It is on the road to 
 Ule Pass, to Falls of the Fountain ; is 
 near Garden of the Gods, Glen Eyrie, and 
 about eight miles from Monument Park. 
 " Colorado Springs " is also a good point 
 of departure for all these places, and also 
 for Cheyenne Mountain and Cheyenne Ca- 
 iion. It is a flourishing village, situated 
 on the plains, with a fine view of the 
 mountain. The streets are planted with 
 shade-trees, and currents of a mountain 
 stream, brought from the hills, flow 
 through every avenue. There is a good 
 hotel. The following table of distances 
 to noted places will be serviceable to the 
 tourist: To Mountain Springs, 6 miles; to 
 Garden of the Gods, 4 miles ; to Monu- 
 ment Park, 9 miles ; to Glen Eyrie, 5 
 miles ; to Cheyenne Canon, 4 miles ; and 
 to summit of Tike's Real;, by carriage, C> 
 miles, 8 miles by mule, and 2 miles of 
 rugged foot-path — total, 1C miles. Guides 
 are at hand for the more distant points, 
 and the traveller should remain here 
 several days if he would enjoy all the 
 beauties of the region. 
 
 1*mcI>I© is the chief city of South- 
 ern Colorado. It is situated at the con- 
 fluence of the Fontaine cpii Bouille with 
 the Arkansas River ; is at the crossing 
 of the old trade-routes from the East, 
 and between Colorado and New Mexico; 
 and is the commercial entrepot for the 
 vast and rich arborous valley. In 1 872 its 
 population was 2,500; it is probably now 
 considerably in excess of this. "The 
 
CaNon City.] 
 
 COLORADO. 
 
 [Georgetown. 
 
 railroad projects," says the Iland-Book 
 of Colorado. " may be stated as follows : 
 The Denver and Rio Grande Railway al- 
 ready in operation ; the Pueblo and Ca- 
 non City branch now under construc- 
 tion ; the extension of the main line 
 down the Rio Grande ; a branch from 
 Pueblo to Trinidad, 100 miles ; the con- 
 struction of a branch of the Kansas Pa- 
 cific from Kit Carson to this point; the 
 change of route of the Atchison, Topeka, 
 & Santa Fe Railroad, taking the Ar- 
 kansas Valley, and making Pueblo its 
 objective point." 
 
 Caooii City, 45 miles from Pue- 
 blo, reached by a branch of the Denver 
 & Rio Grande Railway, is situated on 
 the Arkansas River, five miles from ex- 
 tensive coalmines — an active, rapidly- 
 growing place. 
 
 JROUTE II. 
 
 COLORADO CENTRAL RAILWAY. 
 
 TnE Colorado Central Railway ex- 
 tends, by ordinary track, to Golden 
 City, 15 miles distant; from this point a 
 narrow-gauge road runs up the Clear 
 Creek Caiion to Black Hawk and Cen- 
 tral City, with a branch road at a point 
 eight miles this side, extending to Idaho 
 Springs, and in process of construction 
 to Georgetown. 
 
 <Sol«leiH. City is situated near the 
 line of the foot-hills of the mountains, 
 between two picturesque hills and the 
 North and South Table Mountains. It 
 is in the centre of an extensive mining- 
 region ; is the point of departure for the 
 mountain mining-towns, for Bear Creek 
 Canon, 6 miles distant (by wagon-road), 
 Boulder and Boulder Caiion, 18 miles 
 northward. 
 
 The road up Clear Creek Canon follows 
 the winding of the creek through one of 
 the most wild and picturesque regions on 
 the continent. The canon is very nar- 
 row ; the irregular walls of rock reach 
 from one to two thousand feet in height. 
 Every turn of the road shows a new and 
 often startling pictnre — piles of Titanic 
 rocks, ponderous masses that seem to 
 threaten instant downfall into the stream 
 below. In order to see the splendid 
 
 scenery to advantage, an outside place 
 should be secured. But observation- 
 cars are in process of construction, 
 ■which will prove of great advantage to 
 the lover of the picturesque. It is 
 claimed by some that no railroad ride in 
 the country equals this in all the con- 
 ditions of wild and wonderful scenery. 
 
 SSliacli llawlk (30 miles), the 
 terminus of the right branch of the 
 road, is a mining-town, built irregularly 
 along the gulches and mountain-sides, and 
 is one of the busiest towns in the Terri- 
 tory. It lies in the heart of Gilpin County, 
 a mile cast of Central, and is a point of 
 extensive mining and milling operations. 
 Professor Hill's reduction - works, the 
 most extensive in Colorado, and numer- 
 ous stamp-mills and founderies, are lo- 
 cated here. 
 
 Central City, \\ mile distant, 
 reached by omnibus, is an extensive 
 mining town, very picturesquely situated 
 on the mountain-slopes, on an elevation 
 of 8,500 feet. This is a point of depart- 
 ure for James's Peak. A stage connects 
 with Idaho Springs, and thence to George- 
 town. There are numerous shops, banks, 
 newspapers, and an excellent hotel. 
 
 By the Georgetown division of the 
 railroad we reach 
 
 IdaBao Sprirags (35 miles), the 
 present terminus of the branch, beauti 
 fully situated in a valley nestling among 
 lofty mountain - ranges. The chief at- 
 tractions of the place are its hot and 
 cold mineral springs, its salubrious at- 
 mosphere, and its charming scenery. It 
 has all conveniences requisite lor the 
 comfort of tourists and invalids, and is 
 quite a rendezvous for excursion-parties. 
 The fullest outfits of carriages, horses, 
 and attendants, are here furnished to 
 those desiring to visit Middle Park, Chi- 
 cago Lakes, Green Lakes, the Old Chief, 
 the mining-regions, and many other in- 
 teresting points in the environs. 
 
 Georgetown (48 miles), the pro- 
 jected terminus of this branch of the 
 Colorado Central Railway, is now reached 
 by Concord stages. It is the centre of 
 the silver-mining interests, and is situated 
 on a broad, level base at the mouth of two 
 or three canons, walled in, on three sides, 
 by Leavenworth, Republican, and Sum- 
 mit Mountains. 
 
 245 
 
Gray's Teak.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Wyoming. 
 
 Cray's IPcalc. Georgetown is 
 the starting-point for Gray's Peak, which 
 every visitor to Colorado should ascend. 
 One day will suffice to carry the tourist 
 to the summit and back again to George- 
 town. The mountain-view from Gray's 
 Peak, except that it lacks the pieturcsque- 
 ness of the glaciers, has all the beau- 
 tics of Alpine scenery. To the north- 
 west and south there is almost an in- 
 finite number of loffy peaks and frown- 
 ing crags, while down the valleys of the 
 different branches of Clear Creek to the 
 eastward one can see far out on the 
 plains, perhaps a hundred and fifty miles 
 away. To the northeast is Long's Peak, 
 only a few feet lower than Gray's. To the 
 west is the Blue River Range, broken by 
 lofty, jagged, snow-crowned peaks, while 
 far toward Rear River, in the blue dis- 
 tance, the Rabbit's Ears and Gore's Pass 
 arc prominent objects. To the south- 
 cast, Pike's Peak looms up in solemn 
 grandeur, while to the west of it the 
 Sawatch and other ranges, that mark 
 the course of the Arkansas, skirt the 
 horizon. Sections of the Middle and the 
 South Parks, scooped out far down in 
 the mountains, with other deep valleys 
 without number, repose in quiet beauty 
 at our feet. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 To ISouldcr, 46 miles from Den- 
 ver, by Colorado Central Railway to 
 Golden, thence by Julesburg & Golden 
 Railway. The situation of this town 
 among the lower range of foot-hills is 
 very picturesque, and it is the commer- 
 cial centre of one of the richest mineral 
 regions in Colorado. Near it is Boulder 
 Canorhy accessible by a wagon - road, 
 which is one of the wonders of the Ter- 
 
 ritory, and which is thus described by 
 Mr. J. II. Zin, in his book "Over the 
 Plains and on the Mountains:" "No 
 language can do justice to its awful, sub- 
 lime, and grand scenery. Here is im- 
 mense variety and stupendous vastness, 
 combined with all the elements of the 
 grand, the beautiful, and the sublime." 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 DEXYEIt PACIFIC HAIL WAY TO 
 CIIEYICXXE. 
 
 Greeley (52 miles) is the pioneer 
 colony town of Colorado. Laid out in 
 May, 18*70 ; business of the place already 
 large. The colony has about 100,000 
 acres, and exhibits some of the best in- 
 stances of farming by irrigation in the 
 country. Two canals have been dug, 
 one 10 miles, the other 2(5 miles, long. 
 
 Oaeyemue, Wyandotte (10(5 miles). 
 (Sec page 96.) 
 
 ROUND TRIF. 
 
 For the tourist who may wish to see 
 as much as possible, a trip that will take 
 in much of the best scenery of Colorado 
 is from Denver to South "Park and back, 
 via Colorado Springs and Garden of the 
 Gods. Distances as follows : From Den- 
 ver to the entrance of South Park, 70 
 miles ; thence to Fairplay, 20 miles ; 
 Fairplay to Twin Lakes, 40 miles ; Twin 
 Lakes to South Park, 35 miles ; thence 
 to Canon City, 70 miles ; Canon City to 
 Colorado Springs, 45 miles; Colorado 
 Springs to Denver, 15 miles — total, 355 
 miles. The side visits are Hamilton to 
 Rrcckinridgc, 10 miles ; Fairplay to 
 Mount Lincoln, 12 miles; Twin Lakes to 
 the summit of the Saguache Range, 22 
 miles. 
 
 WYOMING 
 
 Wyoming Territory — organized by act 
 of Congress, July 25, 1868 — lies between 
 the 27th and :i4th meridians of longitude 
 west from Washington, and the 41st and 
 45th degrees of north latitude, and covers 
 216 
 
 an area of !)7,8S0 square miles, or up- 
 ward of 62,500,000 acres. It lias Ne- 
 braska and Dakota on the east, Colorado 
 and Utah on the south, Utah and Idaho 
 on the west, and Montana on the north. 
 
Climate.] 
 
 WYOMING. 
 
 [Mining Districts. 
 
 The southeastern part of the Territory is 
 watered by the North Fork of the Platte 
 River and its tributaries, among which 
 are the Laramie and Sweetwater Rivers. 
 The northeastern section is drained by 
 the Cheyenne River, flowing east into the 
 Missouri. In the southwest, we have the 
 Green River and its numerous affluents, 
 and in the northwest the Big Horn, Pow- 
 der, and Yellowstone Rivers, flowing 
 north. The general altitude of the plains 
 and valleys of Wyoming is from 3,000 to 
 7,000 feet. The altitude of Pine Bluffs, 
 at the eastern boundary, is 5,026 feet ; 
 Cheyenne, the capital of the Territory, is 
 6,0-10 feet ; Laramie City, 7,123 feet. 
 
 Climate. — The air in Wyoming is light 
 and pure, there being but little snow here, 
 compared with the amount that falls in 
 the States along this latitude. Snow 
 does not interfere with the grazing of 
 cattle and sheep throughout the winter. 
 There is very little extremely cold weath- 
 er ; and the thermometer is not higher 
 than 90° Fahr. during the hottest days 
 in August. The evenings and morn- 
 ings are always cool and exhilarating. 
 The only disagreeable feature of the 
 climate is the frequency of the strong 
 winds in the fall and winter. These, 
 however, do no harm to man nor beast, 
 nor do they, as in the States, accompany 
 heavy storms ; on the contrary, they 
 soon give place to sunshine and pleasant 
 weather. 
 
 Timber. — The traveller crossing the 
 continent on the railway obtains the idea 
 that the Territory has very little timber ; 
 that the mountains are covered with a 
 few pines only. This is not the case. 
 There are millions of acres of pine, cedar, 
 fir, spruce, and hemlock. All the timber 
 can easily be floated down the numerous 
 streams to the railroad. The forests are 
 inexhaustible for many generations, and 
 must become a source of wealth to the 
 people of the Territory and to the Union 
 Pacific Railway. 
 
 Buffalo are found in large herds in the 
 northern portion of Wyoming, and elk, 
 deer, and antelope are quite numerous. 
 Of fur-bearing animals there are the 
 beaver, otter, and mink, which are a 
 eource of large profit to the trapper and 
 hunter. 
 
 Stock-Raising. — The advantages and 
 
 facilities for stock-raising in Wyoming 
 are excellent. The short, nutritious grass 
 on the plains and hill-sides makes the 
 Territory one of the most desirable stock- 
 growing regions on the continent. Cattle 
 feed and fatten upon it, both winter and 
 summer, without other fodder or shelter. 
 Sheep also feed the entire year upon the 
 grass of the plains, and, like the cattle, 
 require no shelter but that furnished by 
 the bluffs or canons. The high rolling 
 character of the country and the dry cli- 
 mate are extremly favorable to sheep- 
 raising and wool-growing. 
 
 The soil of the plains and valleys is 
 well adapted to the raising of wheat, 
 oats, and barley, and potatoes, cabbage, 
 turnips, beets, and onions. Deep plough- 
 ing and irrigation are necessary. 
 
 The population of Wyoming is given 
 by the census of 1870 as 9,118, and its 
 wealth is estimated at $5,516,743. 
 
 The Mining Districts. — The minerals 
 found in the Territory are principally 
 gold, copper, iron, paint-ore, and coal. 
 Gold is mined at present in the Sweet- 
 water country, near South Pass and At- 
 lantic City. (See pages 105, 106.) It is 
 also found on the northeast and west sides 
 of Medicine-Bow Mountain. Copper and 
 paint-ore are produced in Carbon County, 
 near Rawlins Springs. Iron-ore is found 
 in large deposits all over the Territory. 
 The celebrated Iron Mountain, near Chey- 
 enne, presents the ore in the condition 
 of magnetic iron-stone. Its color is 
 black, it has a metallic lustre when 
 broken, influences the magnetic needle, 
 and is far superior in quality to most of 
 the iron-ores found in the States. This 
 mountain rises over 2,000 feet above 
 the valley, is about a mile long, and sev- 
 eral hundred feet wide, being one solid 
 mass of iron-stone, free from rock or 
 earth of any kind. The Territory has 
 coal in abundance, it being found in all 
 parts. The deposits are said to cover an 
 area of 30,000 square miles. Silver has 
 not yet been discovered in the Terrritory, 
 but it probably exists in the limestone 
 formations in different localities. Precious 
 stones, including the topaz, amethyst, 
 agate, opal, jasper, and chalcedony, have 
 been found in small quantities. 
 
 Railways. — There are nearly 500 miles 
 of railway in the Territory, and two rail- 
 247 
 
Montana.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [RiTEna 
 
 road projects arc pending, which will add 
 700 miles to the same. The Union Pa- 
 cific Railway crosses Wyoming near its 
 Bouthera boundary-line, and has 480 
 miles of track within its limits. The 
 Denver Pacific Railway connects Chey- 
 enne with Greeley and Denver, in Colo- 
 rado. At the latter place it forms a 
 junction with the Kansas Pacific Rail- 
 way. This road was completed about two 
 years since, and has greatly benefited the 
 people of Wyoming. The Cheyenne, Iron 
 Mountain & Montana Railway Company, 
 and the Green River & Yellowstone Rail- 
 way Company, have lately been organized. 
 The names indicate the points at which 
 these roads will commence and end. 
 The two enterprises are in the hands of 
 the most influential men of the West, 
 and will open to the settler the most 
 valuable portion of the Territory, which 
 would otherwise remain a wilderness for 
 many generations. 
 
 CBieyeuMC. {See page 01.) 
 Along the line of the Union Pacific 
 Railway arc the towns of Wyoming, Car- 
 
 bon, Rawlins, Bryan, and Carter, prin- 
 cipally built up by mining interests. (See 
 pagea 103-105.) 
 
 JEvioastoEa is located near the great 
 coal-mines of the Rocky Mountain Coal 
 Company, and derives its importance 
 from these mines. Here some of the 
 best coal of the West is found. Utah, 
 Nevada, and California, draw their sup- 
 plies of fuel from the mines at Evan- 
 ston. 
 
 South Pass, Hamilton, and Atlantic, 
 are inland towns, located at a distance 
 of 75 miles from the railroad, near the 
 celebrated Sweetwater gold-mines. The 
 growth and future importance of these 
 places depend in some measure upon the 
 development of these mines. The red- 
 men are at present disposed to be peace- 
 able. Their reservations being at a dis- 
 tance of several hundred miles from tho 
 settlements, they do not come in contact 
 with the whites, and the military force in 
 the Territory is adequate to the task of 
 keeping the Indians within bounds. 
 
 JLs&iramic City. (See page 102.) 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 Montana formed a part of Idaho until 
 May, 1864, at which time it was organ- 
 ized into a distinct Territory. It is 
 bounded on the north by the British 
 possessions, on the east by Dakota, and 
 on the south by Wyoming and Idaho, and 
 on the west by Idaho. Its length is about 
 560 miles, and its breadth about 275 miles, 
 having an area of about 153,300 square 
 miles. 
 
 Mountains, Soil, etc. — The surface of 
 the country is generally mountainous. 
 The great Rocky Mountain range crosses 
 the Territory. Commencing at the north- 
 ern boundary, this range extends a dis- 
 tance of about 200 miles in a south-south- 
 east direction, after which it describes a 
 great curve westward until it touches the 
 border of Idaho. From this point the 
 range winds along the southwest boundary 
 of Montana for nearly 200miles. The Hit- 
 ter-Root Mountains also form a part of 
 the western boundary. The country 
 bordering on the Jefferson, Gallatin, and 
 218 
 
 Madison Forks of the Missouri, is among 
 the most fertile and beautiful to be found 
 west of the Mississippi. The country is 
 a gently-undulating prairie, dotted here 
 and there with clumps of timber. The 
 streams are beautifully fringed with forest- 
 growth, the soil is rich, and the climate 
 generally mild and invigorating. 
 
 Minerals. — Gold and silver have been 
 found in great abundance, and mining is 
 now the most important industry of the 
 Territory. Montana is believed, by many 
 who have visited and "prospected" it, to 
 be the richest placer-mining region in 
 the United States. 
 
 Rivers. — The principal rivers are tho 
 Missouri, the Yellowstone, and their trib- 
 utaries ; the Big Horn, Powder-Horn, 
 Milk, and Manas Rivers. 
 
 T2b© Missouri is fully described 
 in Totms of the Great Lakes and Riyers, 
 No. III. (See page 173.) 
 
 The Great Falls of tho 
 Missouri (seepage 171) are regarded 
 
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 110* 
 
The Yellowstone.] 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 [The Devil's Slide. 
 
 as the leading object of interest to trav- 
 ellers. 
 
 TITE SCENERY OP THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 The Yellowstone is without exception 
 the most extraordinary river on the con- 
 tinent. It has only been fully explored 
 within the past year or two, and its won- 
 ders are as yet comparatively unknown. 
 The Northern Pacific Railway, which will 
 traverse the Territory, will in all proba- 
 bility be completed within the next three 
 years, when the trip from the Atlantic 
 seaboard to this wonderful region may be 
 made within four days, and the rush of 
 tourists to Montana will then scarcely 
 be less than to California at the present 
 time. With its tributaries, Big Horn, 
 Powder-Horn, etc., this great river drains 
 the southern and eastern portions of the 
 Territory, in which nearly the whole of 
 its course is included. Mr. N. P. Lang- 
 ford, the explorer of the Yellowstone, 
 has furnished a series of well-written 
 articles on the subject, to Scribncr's 
 Monthly, from which we make the fol- 
 lowing extracts : 
 
 " The Yellowstone and Columbia, the 
 first flowing into the Missouri and the last 
 into the Pacific, divided from each other 
 by the Rocky Mountains, have their 
 sources within a few miles of each other. 
 Both rise in the mountains which separate 
 Idaho from the new Territory of Wyo- 
 ming, but the head-waters of the Yellow- 
 stone are only accessible from Montana. 
 The mountains surrounding the basin 
 from which they flow are very lofty, 
 covered with pines, and on the south- 
 eastern side present to the traveller a 
 precipitous wall of rock several thousand 
 feet in height. This barrier prevented 
 Captain Reynolds from visiting the head- 
 waters of the Yellowstone while prosecut- 
 ing an expedition planned by the govern- 
 ment and placed under his command, for 
 the purpose of exploring that river in 
 1859." 
 
 The Source of tJic Yellow- 
 stone is in a magnificent lake, nearly 
 9,000 feet above the level of the ocean. 
 In its course of 1,300 miles to the Mis- 
 souri, it falls about 7,200 feet. Its upper 
 waters flow through deep canons and 
 gorges, and are broken by immense cata- 
 racts and fearful rapids, presenting at 
 
 various points some of the grandest 
 scenery on the continent. This country 
 is entirely volcanic, and abounds in boil- 
 ing springs, mud-volcanoes, huge moun- 
 tains of sulphur, and geysers more ex- 
 tensive and numerous than those of lee- 
 land." 
 
 Tine Lower Canon. — " The 
 lower canon of the Yellowstone, as a 
 single isolated piece of scenery, is very 
 beautiful. It is less than a mile in 
 length, and perhaps does not exceed 
 1,000 feet in depth. Its walls are verti- 
 cal, and, seen from the summit of the 
 precipice, the river seems forced though 
 a narrow gorge, and is surging and boil- 
 ing at a fearful rate — the water breaking 
 into millions of prismatic drops against 
 every projecting rock." 
 
 TSae ©evil's glide.—" After 
 travelling six miles over the mountains 
 above the canon, we again descended in- 
 to a broad and open valley, skirted by a 
 level upland for several miles. Here an 
 object met our attention which deserves 
 more than a casual notice. It was two 
 parallel vertical walls of rock, projecting 
 from the side of a mountain to the height 
 of 125 feet, traversing the mountain 
 from base to summit, a distance of 1,500 
 feet. These walls were not to exceed 
 thirty feet in width, and their tops for 
 the whole length were crowned with a 
 growth of pines. The sides were as 
 even as if they had been worked by line 
 and plumb — the whole space between, 
 and on either side of them, having been 
 completely eroded and washed away. We 
 had seen many of the capricious works 
 wrought by erosion upon the friable 
 rocks of Montana, but never before up- 
 on so majestic a scale. Here an entire 
 mountain-side, by wind and water, had 
 been removed, leaving, as the evidences of 
 their protracted toil, these vertical pro- 
 jections, which, but for their immensity, 
 might as readily be mistaken for works 
 of art as of nature. Their smooth sides, 
 uniform width and height, and great 
 length, considered in connection with the 
 causes which had wrought their insula- 
 tion, excited our wonder and admiration. 
 They were all the more curious because 
 of their dissimilarity to any other strik- 
 ing objects in natural scenery that we 
 had ever seen or heard of. In future 
 219 
 
44 
 
 i 
 
 NV--.'."^:;!;,'., , '/,, 
 
 '•//mUMj'i', 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 44 
 
 111* 
 
TnE Great Canon.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [The Giantess Geyser. 
 
 years, when the wonders of the Yellow- 
 stone are incorporated into the family of 
 fashionable resorts, there will be few of 
 its attractions surpassing in interest this 
 marvellous freak of the elements. For 
 some reason best understood by himself, 
 one of our companions gave to these 
 rocks the name of the ' Devil's Slide.' " 
 
 r ri»c Cci-eat Canon. — •" The Great 
 Falls arc at the head of one of the most 
 remarkable canons in the world — a gorge 
 through volcanic rocks fifty miles long, 
 and varying from one thousand to nearly 
 five thousand feet in depth. In its de- 
 scent through this wonderful chasm the 
 river falls almost three thousand feet. 
 At one point, where the passage has been 
 worn through a mountain-range, our 
 hunters assured us it was more than a 
 vertical mile in depth, and the river, 
 broken into rapids and cascades, ap- 
 peared no wider than a ribbon. The 
 brain reels as we gaze into this profound 
 and solemn solitude. We shrink from 
 the dizzy verge appalled, glad to feel the 
 solid earth under our feet, and venture 
 no more, except with forms extended, and 
 faces barely protruding over the edge of 
 the precipice. The stillness is horrible. 
 Down, down, down, we see the river at- 
 tenuated to a thread, tossing its minia- 
 ture waves, and dashing, with puny 
 strength, the massive walls which im- 
 prison it. All access to its margin is 
 denied, and the dark-gray rocks hold it 
 in dismal shadow. Even the voice of its 
 waters in their convulsive agony cannot 
 be heard. Uneheered by plant or shrub, 
 obstructed with massive bowlders and 
 jutting points, it rushes madly on its 
 solitary course, deeper and deeper into 
 the bowels of the rocky firmament. The 
 solemn grandeur of the scene surpasses 
 description. It must be seen to be felt. 
 The sense of danger with which it im- 
 presses you is harrowing in the extreme. 
 You feel the absence of sound, the op- 
 pression of absolute silence. If you 
 could only hear that gurgling river, if 
 you could see a living tree in the depth 
 beneath you, if a bird would fly past, 
 if the wind would move any object in 
 the awful chasm, to break for a moment 
 the solemn silence that reigns there, it 
 would relieve that tension of the nerves 
 which the scene lias excited, and you 
 250 
 
 would rise from your prostrate condition 
 and thank God that He had permit ted 
 you to gaze, unharmed, upon this majes- 
 tic display of natural architecture. As it 
 is, sympathizing in spirit with the deep 
 gloom of the scene, you crawl from the 
 awful verge, scared lest the firm rock 
 give way beneath and precipitate you 
 into the horrid gulf." 
 
 The Mnd-Volcano. — " While 
 returning by a new route to our camp, dull, 
 thundering sounds, which General Wash- 
 burn likened to frequent discharges of a 
 distant mortar, broke upon our ears. We 
 followed their direction, and found them 
 to proceed from a mud-volcano, which 
 occupied the slope of a small hill embow- 
 ered in a grove of pines. Dense volumes 
 of steam shot into the air with each 
 report, through a crater thirty feet in 
 diameter. The reports, though irregular, 
 occurred as often as every five seconds, 
 and could be distinctly heard half a mile. 
 Each alternate report shook the ground 
 a distance of two hundred yards or more, 
 and the massive jets of vapor which ac- 
 companied them burst forth like the smoke 
 of burning gunpowder. It was impossible 
 to stand on the edge of that side of the 
 crater opposite the wind, and one of our 
 party, Mr. Hedges, was rewarded for his 
 temerity in venturing too near the rim, 
 by being thrown by the force of the vol- 
 ume of steam violently down the outer 
 side of the crater. From hasty views, 
 afforded by occasional gusts of wind, we 
 could see at a depth of sixty feet the 
 regurgitating contents." 
 
 'JTJtc 4jiianl <j}eyscr. — " 'The ( ;i- 
 ant ' has a rugged crater, ten feet in diam- 
 eter on the outside, with an irregular ori- 
 fice five or six feet in diameter. It dis- 
 charges a vast quantity of water, and the 
 only time we saw it in eruption the How 
 of water in a column five feet in diame- 
 ter, one hundred and forty feet in verti- 
 cal height, continued uninterruptedly for 
 nearly three hours. The crater resembles 
 a miniature model oi the Coliseum." 
 
 Xltc CiS ia,ntcss (Jcyser. — " Our 
 search for new wonders leading us across 
 the Fire Hole River, we ascended a gentle, 
 incrusted slope, and came suddenly upon a 
 large oval aperture with scalloped edges, 
 the diameters of which were eighteen and 
 twenty-five feet, the sides corrugated and 
 
The Giantess Geyser.] 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 [Snake or Siiosiione River. 
 
 covered with a grayish-white silicious de- 
 posit, which was distinctly visible at the 
 depth of one hundred feet below the sur- 
 face. No water could be discovered, but 
 we could distinctly hear it gurgling and 
 boiling at a great distance below. Sud- 
 denly it began to rise, boiling and splut- 
 tering, and sending out huge masses of 
 steam, causing a general stampede of our 
 company, driving us some distance from 
 our point of observation. When within 
 about forty feet of the surface it became 
 stationary, and we returned to look down 
 upon it. It was surging and foaming at 
 a terrible rate, occasionally emitting small 
 jets of hot water nearly to the mouth of 
 the orifice. All at once it seemed seized 
 with a fearful spasm, and rose with in- 
 credible rapidity, hardly affording us time 
 to flee to a safe distance, when it burst 
 from the orifice with terrific momentum, 
 rising in a column the full size of this im- 
 mense aperture to the height of sixty feet ; 
 and, through and out of the apex of this 
 vast aqueous mass, five or six lesser jets 
 or round columns of water, varying in 
 size from six to fifteen inches in diame- 
 ter, were projected to the marvellous 
 height of two hundred and fifty feet. 
 These lesser jets, so much higher than 
 the main column, and shooting through 
 it, doubtless proceed from auxiliary pipes 
 leading into the principal orifice near the 
 bottom, where the explosive force is 
 greater. If the theory that water by 
 constant boiling becomes explosive when 
 freed from air be true, this theory ration- 
 ally accounts for all irregularities in the 
 eruptions of the geysers. 
 
 " This grand eruption continued for 
 twenty minutes, and was the most mag- 
 nificent sight we ever witnessed. We 
 were standing on the side of the geyser 
 nearest the sun, the gleams of which 
 rilled the sparkling column of water and 
 spray with myriads of rainbows, whose 
 arches were constantly changing, — dip- 
 ping and fluttering hither and thither, and 
 disappearing only to be succeeded by oth- 
 ers, again and again, amid the aqueous 
 column, while the minute globules into 
 which the spent jets were diffused when 
 falling, sparkled like a shower of dia- 
 monds, and around every shadow which 
 the denser clouds of vapor, interrupting 
 the sun's rays, cast upon the column, 
 
 could be seen a luminous circle, radiant 
 with all the colors of the prism, and re- 
 sembling the halo of glory represented 
 in paintings as encircling the head of 
 Divinity. This geyser we named ' The 
 Giantess.' " 
 
 By act of Congress, passed March 1, 
 18T2, the whole of the region described 
 above, embracing upward of 200 square 
 miles was made a National Park, " to be 
 kept inviolate forever." 
 
 The principal routes to the Territory 
 are the overland route from Corinne, 
 Utah, on the Union Pacific Railway (see 
 page 112), via Bear River, and Bannack 
 to Virginia City and Helena; and the 
 Missouri River route to Fort Benton (.sec 
 Tours of the Great Lakes and Rivers, 
 No. III.). The latter cannot be travelled 
 except during the rise of the river, which 
 usually takes place in June, and ordina- 
 rily affords navigation for about six weeks. 
 Fort Union, 400 miles below Fort Benton, 
 is the head of summer navigation. Until 
 the Northern Pacific Railway reaches Mon- 
 tana, for all practical purposes of travel 
 the overland route from Corinne can be 
 the only one used. Wells, Fargo & Co. 
 run a daily line of stages, carrying the 
 United States mail and express to Vir- 
 ginia City (358 miles) and to Helena (482 
 miles). From Fort Benton, via Mullan's 
 Pass and Stevens's Pass to Walla-Walla, 
 Oregon, a distance of 618 miles, the road 
 crosses the northern part of the Territory. 
 
 Leaving Corinne by stage, we pass 
 some thriving Mormon villages of dull- 
 brown adobe houses, and are soon out of 
 the Territory of Utah. 
 
 After crossing the Idaho line a little 
 north of Bear River, the road lies through 
 Port Neuf Canon, 30 miles long, and 
 soon after the traveller reaches 
 
 r JThe Snake or Shoshone 
 ISlvcr, the old Lewis Fork of the 
 Columbia. This great river rises in the 
 mountainous region of Southeastern Ida- 
 ho, and flows northwestward into Wash- 
 ington Territory. It is about 900 miles 
 long from its source to its junction with 
 the Columbia, and, just before it reaches 
 the noble valley of the latter river, it makes 
 a series of very abrupt descents from its 
 elevated channel in the Blue Mountains. 
 251 
 
Bannack.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Helena. 
 
 (See chapter on Ipaiio.) After a, long jour- 
 ney, it bids a final adieu to the rocks and 
 gorges through which it has been strug- 
 gling tor so many miles, and enters the 
 beautiful valley, watered by four noble 
 fivers, and enclosed on all sides by the 
 Rocky and Blue Mountains, and the Cas- 
 cades. This valley is one of the most 
 beautiful on the Pacific coast, and, if ex- 
 plorers are to be trusted, on the entire 
 continent. Beyond Snake River the road 
 crosses miles of sand. To the east rise 
 the Three Tetons, a spur of the Rocky 
 Mountains, called by the Indians the 
 "Three Binnacles. " Climbing over the 
 "divide" of the Rocky Mountains, just 
 beyond Pleasant Valley Station, we leave 
 the Pacific slope behind, entering Montana 
 among the tributaries of the Missouri. 
 
 IBiinraaelf, the pioneer town of 
 Montana, is first reached. It lies in the 
 gulch of Grasshopper Creek, enclosed by 
 lofty mountains, 70 miles from Virginia 
 City and 400 from Salt Lake City. 
 
 ^"irg'iaaia, C'itty, the capital and 
 chief city of Montana, is situated on 
 Alder Creek, a tributary of Jefferson's 
 Fork of the Missouri. It was settled in 
 July, 18G2, and with its suburbs, Nevada 
 City and Junction, contains a population 
 of between 0,000 and 8,000. Alder Gulch 
 is about 13 miles in length, and presents, 
 
 to the eye cf one unacquainted with 
 mining operations, a curious spectacle. 
 Millions of dollars of gold have been taken 
 out of it. Stages and stage expresses 
 leave daily and tri-weekly for Helen!;, 
 Bannack, and Salmon River, Silver Bow, 
 Red Mountain City, Deer Lodge, Black- 
 foot, Reynolds City, Beartown, and Hell- 
 gate. 
 
 Between Virginia City and Helena the 
 distance, 120 miles, is usually travelled 
 by stage in 14 to 16 hours. Views of the 
 junction of the Jefferson, Gallatin, and 
 Madison Forks, which form the Missouri, 
 and of the Hot Springs, four miles from 
 Helena, and White-tailed Deer Canon, 
 are obtained en route. These springs 
 have fine medicinal properties, and are 
 much frequented by visitors from He- 
 lena. 
 
 Ileleitn is a thriving young city, 
 with a population of nearly 10,000. It is 
 the supply-point of the rich placer-mines 
 of the Blackfoot country and other sec- 
 tions of Northern Montana, embracing 
 some of the most valuable diggings on the 
 continent. It is 18 miles west of the Mis- 
 souri River, and 120 miles north of Vir- 
 ginia City. The first settlement was made 
 here in Last Cha?ice Gulch, in the fall of 
 1SG4. In the vicinity are extensive quar- 
 ries of granite and blue limestone. 
 (See ArpEXDix.) 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 Idaho was organized as a Territory, 
 March 3, 18G3. Its area was originally 
 2-13,300 square miles, but of this immense 
 area .Montana has now nearly two-thirds, 
 leaving Idaho only about 90,000 square 
 miles. It is formed from the eastern 
 halves of the old Washington and Oregon 
 Territories, the western half of Nebraska, 
 and a small part of Northern Utah. It 
 extends from Utah and Nevada on the 
 south to the British possessions on the 
 north. It is said that the Indian word 
 Idaho is, in English, "a star;" and again, 
 that it stands for " the gem of the moun- 
 tains." The Idaho region includes the 
 rich gold-fields of Salmon River, a stream 
 of remarkably picturesque beauty, flow- 
 ing, here and there, between grand pcr- 
 252 
 
 pcndicular walls varying in height from 
 500 to 2,000 feet. The very recent and 
 rapid settlement of Idaho, commenced 
 within two or three years past, has grow n 
 out of the gold discoveries. These dis- 
 coveries attracted thousands of adven- 
 turers from California, who soon after- 
 ward pushed their explorations toward 
 Eastern Oregon and Western Idaho. 
 From that period to the present a steady 
 and increasing tide of immigration has 
 set thitherward, and the resources of the 
 land are being daily revealed and utilized, 
 both in iis mineral stores and its capaci- 
 ties in soil, climate, etc. Settlements are 
 rapidly growing up, roads are being con- 
 structed, the waters are navigated, schools 
 and churches arc appearing, with all 
 
Boisee on Boise City.] 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 [Great Shoshone Falls. 
 
 other adjuncts of permanent and pro- 
 gressive civilization. 
 
 Minerals. — The mineral resources of 
 Idaho compare well with those of the 
 other valuable mining portions of the 
 great Kocky Mountain region. Gold is 
 found in most of the tributaries of the 
 Missouri and the Yellowstone. Platina, 
 too, has been obtained in small quantities, 
 while extensive deposits of this valuable 
 metal are supposed to exist. Copper, 
 iron, and salt, are abundant ; and coal is 
 found upon the Pacific slope of the Rocky 
 Mountains, and on the Upper Missouri 
 and Yellowstone Rivers. 
 
 Tlie climate of the Idaho region is bleak 
 in the mountain-ranges, but mild and 
 agreeable in the valley districts. 
 
 Boise is the capital, and Idaho City, 
 Lcwiston, Ruby City, and Star City, the 
 principal towns. 
 
 The population of the Territory is given 
 by the census of 1870 as 14,998, and the 
 total valuation of real estate and personal 
 property, $5,292,145. 
 
 The leading approaches to the Terri- 
 tory are from the Pacific by the Hum- 
 boldt route 1rom Hunter's Station, on 
 the overland (Wells, Fargo & Co.'s) mail 
 line to Boise, the capital, from the Cen- 
 tral Pacific Railway, or from Portland, 
 Oregon, by way of the Columbia and 
 Snake Rivers to Lewiston, and from 
 Umatilla and Wallula to Boise and Idaho 
 Cities. From Salt Lake City, via Bear 
 River (84 miles), to Boise (393 miles). 
 
 ISoisee or Ilois«j City, the 
 capital and chief commercial town of 
 Idaho, is situated on a level plain on the 
 north bank of the Boise River, about 30 
 miles southwest of Idaho city, 300 miles 
 northwest of Great Salt Lake City, and 
 is reached by stage from Whraemucca, 
 fin the Central Pacific Railway (see page 
 115), and also by stage from Indian 
 Creek (Kclton). It became the capital in 
 1864. Its broad, level, treeless avenues, 
 with their low, white-verandaed ware- 
 houses, log cabins, new, neat cottages, 
 and ever-shifting panorama of wagons 
 and coaches, Indians, miners, farmers, 
 and speculators, remind one of a prairie- 
 town in Kansas or Iowa. It is overlooked 
 by Fort Boise, which has a noble parade- 
 
 ground, surrounded by tasteful buildings 
 of sand-stone, and is the most beautiful 
 of all our frontier posts, except Fort Da- 
 vis, in Texas. 
 
 Ruby City, Silver City, and Boonvitte, 
 are trading towns in the mountain min- 
 ing district of Owyhee. They are reached 
 over a rough, dreary road from Boise in 
 one day. Ruby City is in the heart of 
 the Owyhee district, and 6 miles from the 
 Oregon fine. It stands at the bottom of 
 a deep canon, overlooked by mountain- 
 summits which tower from 800 to 1,500 
 feet above it. War Eagle, the highest, 
 is 2,000 feet above the town and 5,000 
 feet above the sea. This mountain is 
 rich in mineral. The Morning Star and 
 Oro Fino Mills should be visited. 
 
 r FIae CJireat SliosSaone B^mlls 
 (Shoshone River, see page 251), 185 miles 
 from Boise City, and 6 miles from the 
 stage-road, should be visited. They 
 are described as follows by Ross Browne : 
 " The river for many miles, both above 
 and below, passes through a volcanic 
 valley. It has cut a perpendicular canon 
 through the layers of lava to the depth 
 of about one thousand feet. The caQou 
 is generally about half a mile wide. At 
 the poiut where the falls are located it is 
 nearly a mile wide. Viewed from below 
 it appears circular, like a vast amphi- 
 theatre, with the falls in the centre. 
 The different layers of lava resemble 
 seats in tiers ranged one above another 
 to a height of seven hundred feet above 
 the head of the falls. In the narrowest 
 part the water is two or three hundred 
 yards wide. About four hundred yards 
 above the main falls are five islands, at 
 nearly equal intervals across the river, 
 dividing the stream into six parts. As 
 the water passes between the islands it 
 is precipitated twenty-five or thirty feet. 
 The falls differ essentially from each other 
 in form, affording great variety. Below 
 the islands the water unites and passes 
 in an unbroken sheet over the great fall ; 
 the descent is about two hundred feet. 
 The semicircle at the head of the falls is 
 apparently perfect, and the leap as clear 
 as that of Niagara. Enormous clouds of 
 mist and spray arise, variegated with 
 rainbows. At the foot are rushing show- 
 ers of spray, from under which the water, 
 beaten into foam, dashes furiously away. 
 253 
 
Great Shoshone Falls.] WESTERN TOUR. [Great Salt Lake Valley. 
 
 Occasionally can bo seen through the fly- 
 ing mists the immense sheet of water 
 standing out in bold relief from the rocks, 
 showing that with proper appliances it is 
 practicable to go behind, as at Niagara. 
 A few hundred yards farther down, the 
 water swings slowly around in a huge 
 whirlpool and then disappears in the 
 black canon below. The delicate pris- 
 matic colors of the rainbow and the 
 graceful, evanescent forms of the mist 
 contrast strangely with the iron-black 
 surface, hard outlines, and awful forms 
 of the overhanging basalt. The sound 
 of the rushing waters resembles that cf 
 an orchestra, the small falls giving the 
 high notes, and the great falls the bass, 
 producing a combination not possible to 
 obtain from a single undivided current. 
 At Rock-Creek Station, twenty miles dis- 
 tant, it can be heard distinctly — not con- 
 
 tinuously, but at intervals, like the surf. 
 When the notes strike in unison they can 
 be heard at a greater distance." 
 
 JLcwiston is at the junction of the 
 Snake and Clearwater Rivers, at the 
 head of steamboat navigation. It is 
 reached by stage from Wallula (sec 
 Washington Territory), and in summer 
 by steamers from Dalles. 
 
 Idaho City (formerly Bannack) is 
 situated at the confluence of Elk and 
 Moore's Creeks, in the midst of the placer 
 gold-mines of the Boise Basin. Boise City 
 is 36 miles distant. A fire destroyed a great 
 part of the town in May, 1865, but it has 
 been wholly rebuilt. It is reached by stage 
 from Winnemucca (sec page 115), and 
 connects by stage with Umatilla, Oregon. 
 
 The mining town of Buena Vista Bar, 
 opposite Idaho City, has a population of 
 about 2,000. (Sec Appendix.) 
 
 U T A II . 
 
 Utah was formerly peopled entirely 
 by Indians, principally by the various 
 tribes of Utes, from whom it takes its 
 name. It was settled by the Mormons, 
 in 1847. It extends from the 37th to 
 the 42d parallels of north latitude, and 
 to the 114th degree of west longitude, 
 occupying an area of about 82,000 square 
 miles, of which, about 135,000 acres are 
 under cultivation. 
 
 The climate is said to resemble that of 
 the great Tartar plains of Asia, the days 
 in summer-time being hot and the nights 
 cool. The winters are mild in the val- 
 leys, and, except in the mountain-ranges, 
 but little snow falls. There the ther- 
 mometer ranges from zero to 30° below 
 for days and even weeks together. The 
 temperature is liable to great and quick 
 transitions from the changing currents 
 of the winds. 
 
 The population is given by the census 
 of 1870 as 86,786. Of this, Great Salt 
 Lake County contributes 18,337 inhab- 
 itants'; Piute County gives no returns, 
 the settlers having been driven out by 
 Indians. Utah County has a popula- 
 tion of 12,243. In consequence of the 
 .ccent great rush to the new silver-mines, 
 254 
 
 the population of the Territory has been 
 greatly augmented. The total valua- 
 tion of real estate and personal property 
 in Utah is given by the census of 1S70 
 as $13,109,930, against §4,158,020 in 
 1S60. 
 
 T/w soil of Utah is filled with various 
 mineral substances, such as salt, soda, 
 lime, sulphur, alkali, etc. In many places 
 the earth looks red, like blood, or white, 
 like flour, according as the minerals 
 spoken of come to the surface. 
 
 So much of the wonders of Utah sce- 
 nery has been described in the chapter on 
 the Pacific Railway (Route XVIII.) which 
 traverses the northern portion of the 
 Territory, that but few points of interest 
 remain to be spoken of. 
 
 The CJreat Salt I^altc Val- 
 ley cuts through the centre of the Ter- 
 ritory like the section of a tunnel, and 
 rises on all sides into level benches or 
 terraces one above the other, supposed 
 to be ancient water-marks, and still be- 
 yond these, evenly indented in the moun- 
 tain-sides for many miles other benches 
 rise, so that one cannot tell where the 
 valley ends and the mountains commence. 
 The extent of the former is variously es- 
 
Salt Mountain.] 
 
 UTAII. 
 
 [The Emma Mine. 
 
 timatcd from 70 to 100 miles from north 
 to south, and from 30 to 60 miles from 
 east to west, according as these great 
 level stretches are taken into the compu- 
 tation or not. The valley is 4,000 feet 
 above the sea, and is consequently above 
 dew point. The atmosphere here is so 
 rarefied that it is often the means of 
 greatly deceiving strangers as to dis- 
 tances ; a place that one supposes to be 
 within a stone's-throw being often two 
 or three miles distant. 
 
 'JTlie Great Salt Lake has 
 been described on page 113. 
 
 Salt Mountain, in the southern 
 part of the Territory, on the Colorado 
 River, is a mountain of solid salt, clear 
 as crystal, and somewhat resembling a 
 huge iceberg. 
 
 The scenery of Utah affords continual 
 surprises for the tourist. He sees im- 
 mense canons winding around the moun- 
 tains in every possible form ; beautiful 
 lakes burst on his view in the most un- 
 expected places, while towering bluffs, 
 deep ravines, narrow gorges, and lofty 
 mountain-ranges, snow-capped and bar- 
 ren, go to make up a series of natural 
 pictures which, for diversity in beauty 
 and grandeur, can scarcely be excelled. 
 
 Tlie Warm Spring's, which 
 are about two miles north of Salt Lake 
 City, and the Hot Springs, a little farther 
 north, are worth visiting. Various medi- 
 cinal virtues are ascribed to the waters 
 of the former, whose temperature is set 
 down as 102° Fahrenheit. A comforta- 
 ble bathing-house has been built at this 
 place. 
 
 'JTBic Slot Springs gush out of 
 rocks, at the base of the mountains, into 
 a narrow basin, throwing off an oppres- 
 sive sulphurous odor. Their temperature 
 is so much above that of the Warm 
 Springs that no one can bathe in the wa- 
 ters. It has been asserted by some trav- 
 ellers that eggs can be boiled in them, 
 which may be true, but they cannot be 
 cooked in five minutes. The tempera- 
 ture is so high, however, that if the vis- 
 itor tries to test it by thrusting his fingers 
 in the springs, he will certainly scald 
 them. Some of the water was analyzed by 
 Dr. Charles Jackson, of Boston, in 1849. 
 In his report he says : " Three fluid ounces 
 of the water on evaporation to entire dry- 
 
 ness in a platina capsule, gave 8.25 grains 
 of solid, dry saline matter, composed of 
 lime, soda, magnesia, sulphuric acid, chlo- 
 rine, peroxide of iron, and carbonate of 
 lime and magnesia." This class of springs 
 abounds in the Great Basin, and through- 
 out the Territory. They are all more or 
 less impregnated with sulphur and other 
 mineral substances. In some places they 
 are found high up on the sides of the 
 mountains, and, on evaporation, the sa- 
 line substances form basins, or perhaps 
 miniature lakes, with rims of white all 
 fretted and carved as no human hand 
 could imitate. 
 
 Small towns and thriving settlements 
 lie north and south cf the Territory for 
 hundreds of miles. They are all divided 
 into wards, and each has its meeting- 
 house, used for all purposes — from dan- 
 cing to preaching — its presiding bishop, 
 with his counsellors, and teachers. A 
 telegraph-line extends through the entire 
 length of the Territory. 
 
 St. George, the capital of Wash- 
 ington County, is a prosperous town of 
 about 3,000 inhabitants, being the centre 
 of some 30 settlements, lying in the 
 southern part of the Territory. This 
 " Southern Colony " is peopled princi- 
 pally by Mormons, presided over by one 
 of the Twelve Apostles, each settlement 
 having a bishop. The district is well 
 cultivated, and produces all kinds of 
 fruit. The grape and pear grow in abun- 
 dance, and wheat, corn, cotton, sorghum, 
 and the castor-bean, are cultivated with 
 profit. St. George has a handsome stone 
 church, several school-houses, and a the- 
 atre It is reached by stage from Salt 
 Lake City, via Fillmore. (/Seepage 109.) 
 
 TIIE NEW MINING- DISTEICTS. 
 
 For many years it has been known 
 that gold and silver existed in Utah, but 
 it is but comparatively recently that the 
 precious metals have been found in quan- 
 tity sufficiently great to warrant such an 
 extraordinary rush to the mines as two 
 years have witnessed. 
 
 The Emma Mine. — The most 
 profitable mine in the Territory is the 
 Emma, which is situated in Little Cotton- 
 wood Canon, in the Mountain Lake Dis- 
 trict, southeast of Salt Lake City, and 
 about 25 miles from the terminus of the 
 255 
 
SiLVERoroMS, Etc., Mines.] WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [East Canox City. 
 
 Utah Central Railway (see Ogdcn, p. 109). 
 At a depth of 1 27 feet the " prospectors " 
 ofthis mine struck a lode of mineral of vast 
 extent, which it is said yields a profit on 
 shipments made to Swansea, in Wales, 
 of about §120 a ton. Many thousands 
 of tons of ore are, by actual measure- 
 ment, in sight in the Emma mine. There 
 are many mineral lodes now being worked 
 in the Little Cottonwood Cation, and also 
 in the B'iri Cottonwood and the American 
 Fork, which arc adjacent thereto, which 
 yield ore equal to, and in some cases far 
 exceeding in value, that taken from the 
 Emma mine ; but in quantity of ore the 
 Emma probably has no equal in Utah. 
 
 At the head of Little Cottonwood some 
 rich ore was mined, and a good deal of 
 money was wasted, between 1864 and 
 18C8. For 1869-'70 a certain shaft in 
 that locality, following a small seam of 
 ore, at the depth of 100 feet or so, began 
 to lose itself in an immense bed of argen- 
 tiferous galena, worth $200 per ton gross, 
 from which 4,000 to 6,000 tons were 
 taken during eight months ending April, 
 1871, and snipped chiefly to Liverpool 
 for reduction. The present workings in 
 this mine are said by the initiated to 
 expose 30,000 tons of ore, with no ap- 
 parent signs of exhaustion. It costs 
 $70 a ton to reduce this ore to coin or 
 bank-notes, viz. : for mining, $3.50 ; 
 sacking, $5 ; hauling to the depot of 
 the Utah Central Railway in Salt Lake 
 City, $10 ; transportation to Liverpool, 
 $33.75 ; charges there for reducing, etc., 
 $16 coin. 
 
 The Emma Mine has recently been 
 sold to a great stock-company, most of 
 the stock being sold in London. Great 
 promises were made, and the project 
 caused a genuine sensation in the Euro- 
 pean market — with what result remains 
 to be seen. 
 
 '1'Jic Silveropolis and SBasaiiai- 
 rock. — These mines, which are in East 
 < 'anon, 60 miles southwest of Salt Lake 
 City, are very rich. Ore has been taken 
 from the former that assayed over $20,000 
 to the ton; and a large quantity taken 
 from the Shamrock has yielded $27,000 
 to the ton. These are, indeed, exceptional 
 cases, but all the mines which have been 
 developed anywhere in the Territory are 
 rich, both as to the quantity and quality 
 256 
 
 of their ores. Old and experienced miners 
 from California and Nevada say that, in 
 .all their experience, they never before 
 met with any district which could com- 
 pare with the mines of Utah. It is a 
 common saying with them, " Wherever 
 we put a spade we find ore ; " and the 
 deeper they go, the richer the ore gets. 
 Ores have been found in entirely new 
 districts which yielded more than $600 
 per ton net. 
 
 Some 25 lots or 20 car-loads, of '100,000 
 pounds each, of argentiferous galena were 
 shipped by the Pacific Railway to New 
 York during the winter of 1870-'71 for 
 conveyance to Liverpool. A great many 
 new mines are opening. It is estimated 
 that over seventy-five car-loads of orcaro 
 shipped from Utah every day, of which 
 the greater part is mined in Little Cot- 
 tonwood Canon, at a point about 25 miles 
 from the city in which Brigham Young 
 lives. Gold, as well as silver, has been 
 found in combination with lead and other 
 base metals in Utah, but nine-tenths of 
 the mineral veins yet discovered have 
 been of silver-bearing lead. In describ- 
 ing the great mine in Little Cottonwood 
 Canon, the expression " lake of mineral " 
 is used as if with reference to its original 
 formation, and surveys have as yet failed 
 to define its extent, but it is believed to 
 be vast. Gold-washing has been carried 
 on extensively for some time in Brig- 
 ham Canon. It is estimated that over 
 $3,000,000 worth of dust has been sold 
 from that canon alone. The lead-ores, 
 or argentiferous galenas, contain from 50 
 to 1,000 ounces of silver to the ton. 
 
 A company of English and New York 
 capitalists has commenced building a 
 road from Salt Lake City to East Canon 
 a distance of 0<> miles, with the inten- 
 tion of continuing it to Tintic, some 20 
 miles farther. The road taps the different 
 canons on the route, and it is expected to 
 be completed as far as East Canon very 
 soon. Brigham Young and the Church 
 party are also building a road, called the 
 Utah Southern, running from Salt Lake 
 City through the mining-regions to New 
 Mexico. As already mentioned in Roitk 
 XYIII., a short railway built by the Mor- 
 mons connects Ogdeu and Salt Lake City. 
 
 13;i*ft Cniion City, in Septem- 
 ber, 1870, consisted of only two or three 
 
East Canon City.] 
 
 UTAH. 
 
 [The Mormons. 
 
 log-houses, with a few miners straggling 
 around. In June, 1871, there were 300 
 houses there, including one first-class ho- 
 tel, a French restaurant, an ordinary hotel, 
 drug-stores, groceries, dry-goods stores, 
 hardware-stores, physicians, and lawyers 
 in plenty. 
 
 A correspondent of the New-York &>m 
 who visited the mines in May, 1871, 
 says : " In East Canon, within an area of 
 a square mile, there is now a population 
 of over 3,000 whei - e eight months ago 
 there were not twenty. And Brigham Ca- 
 fion, Little Cottonwood, Big Cottonwood, 
 Stockton, Tintic, and half a dozen other 
 places that I visited, have increased in 
 something like the same ratio. The in- 
 crease of population in the Territory, 
 from these mining discoveries, is from 
 20,000 to 25,000 souls, and the tide is 
 swelling every week. The price of prop- 
 erty has also increased with great rapid- 
 ity. In Salt Lake City property has ad- 
 vanced fully 100 per cent., and in the 
 mining districts prices have gone up from 
 500 to 5,000 per cent. A mine which 
 was offered in September for $6,000, the 
 owners refused $45,000 for in May, with 
 but little more development than in Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 MORMONISM AKD'THE MORMONS. 
 
 The following sketch of Mormonisrn is 
 condensed from W. F. Rae's " Westward 
 by Rail : " 
 
 " Ingenious theories have been ad- 
 vanced to explain the origin and success 
 of Mormonisrn. Attractive pictures have 
 been limned of Mormon society, and 
 plausible reasons put forth in defence of 
 the most reprehensible of Mormon prac- 
 tices. A sweeping condemnation has, in 
 like manner, been passed upon the Saints ; 
 it has been denied that they possess a 
 single good quality, or that they are at 
 all better than the savages whom they 
 have displaced. If the best that has been 
 said about them be true, it docs not enti- 
 tle them to universal esteem. If the 
 worst be well founded, if they are indeed 
 liypocrites and rogues, sour fanatics and 
 intolerant bigots, the blame lies at the 
 doors of those who, by unjustly and cru- 
 elly persecuting them, labored to make 
 them what they arc. Had not Joseph 
 
 Smith won the crown of martyrdom, 
 Brigham Young might never have gov- 
 erned as a despot. 
 
 "When the angel Moroni disclosed to 
 Joseph Smith the reputed secrets which 
 the Prophet communicated to the world 
 in the Book of Mormon, the minds of the 
 younger men in America were prepared 
 to hearken to a revelation. Almost con- 
 temporaneously with the prophetic utter- 
 ance of the first high-priest of the Latter- 
 Day Saints, Mr. Owen proclaimed to the 
 people of the United States his scheme for 
 achieving universal happiness by group- 
 ing mankind in parallelograms. The ex- 
 citement which this proposal occasioned 
 was due to the avidity of the public for 
 any hints which might clear the way for 
 the regeneration of the world. A like 
 eagerness to experiment with the theo 
 ries of Fourier was afterward manifested. 
 Joseph Smith had this enormous superi- 
 ority over other speculators, that, in addi- 
 tion to indicating the path toward a more 
 perfect state, he provided a new religion 
 as a solace for those who, having been 
 buffeted by the waves of doubt, could find 
 no anchorage for their faith. Moreover, 
 his religion had the merit of being a com- 
 plement to that which was generally ac- 
 cepted, giving precision to what was ques- 
 tionable, widening the boundaries of what 
 was narrow. The heaven which he pic- 
 tured was a heaven which human beings 
 desired all the more strongly because it 
 was but another and a more perfect rep- 
 resentation of the world in which they 
 lived. To the believers in him was 
 afforded the supreme satisfaction of an 
 immediate display of spiritual powers and 
 a present experience of spiritual beings. 
 They were convinced that the Deity had 
 returned to earth and exhibited Himself 
 anew on their behalf. 
 
 "Desiring to profit by the privileges 
 accorded to the Saints, thousands en- 
 rolled themselved under the banner of 
 Joseph Smith, patiently submitting them- 
 selves to his command in the hope of 
 winning the rewards promised to the 
 faithful and the obedient. When these 
 votaries accompanied him to the Far 
 West, and there formed themselves into 
 a society under the name of the Latter- 
 Day Saints, they merely did what others 
 performed when they constituted them- 
 257 
 
TnE Mormons.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [The Mormons. 
 
 selves into ' Communities,' and settled on 
 lands purchased with a view to afford 
 them scope for carrying out in practice 
 the social theories which they had ac- 
 cepted as panaceas for all the ills of 
 which society was the prey. That nearly 
 all these communities were soon dissolved 
 was directly due to bankruptcy, and was 
 indirectly caused by the absence of a tie 
 sufficiently strong and lasting to bind 
 them together. Their religion saved the 
 Latter-Day Saints from sharing the fate 
 of Owen's ' New Hai-mony ; ' of the 
 many phalanxes in which Fourier's spec- 
 ulations were reduced to practice ; of 
 Brook Farm, where the transcendentalists 
 of New England made a vigorous but 
 futile attempt to demonstrate the right 
 manner in which to purge the world of 
 corruption preparatory to ushering in the 
 Golden Age. A deplorable combination 
 of ignorance and fanaticism was brought 
 to bear against the infant Church and the 
 newly-formed association of which Joseph 
 Smith was the head and the originator. 
 The rough dwellers in Missouri arrayed 
 themselves against him and compelled 
 his followers to abandon their settlement. 
 Fleeing to Illinois, they were there treated 
 with a barbarity equally gross and blame- 
 worthy. The law proved to the Prophet 
 not a protection, but a snare. Again and 
 again he was imprisoned on paltry pre- 
 texts, but his persecutors would not be- 
 lieve in his innocence, even when repeat- 
 edly proclaimed by a court of justice. 
 The prison in which he was last immured, 
 pending the progress of another trial, 
 was broken open by armed men, and he 
 was foully slain in cold blood. His fol- 
 lowers, instead of immediately dispersing 
 in dismay, banded themselves together 
 with increased ardor, having resolved to 
 dare and endure every thing in the de- 
 fence of a faith which they regarded with 
 the Stronger admiration on account of 
 the hatred it inspired in the breasts of 
 lawless, depraved, and cruel men. The 
 desperate resolve to seek safety in an 
 unexplored part of the country can be 
 paralleled by nothing but the lofty cour- 
 age which moved the Dutch to resolve 
 upon submerging their entire country 
 and to take ship for the Indian Archipel- 
 ago, rather than submit to the debasing 
 bondage which would have been their 
 258 
 
 lot had the King of France become mas- 
 ter of Holland. 
 
 " Having arrived at the valley of the 
 Great Salt Lake, and assured themselves 
 that the parched desert and the tower- 
 ing mountain were insuperable barriers 
 against the inhumanity and intolerance 
 of their foes, they began to live in the 
 way which seemed the best according to 
 their lights. 
 
 " If the Mormons had never learned 
 what it was to battle with difficulties 
 almost superhuman, and to obtain a tri- 
 umph almost miraculous, they might have 
 speedily cooled in their devotion for the 
 creed they had adopted, or interpreted 
 the accepted doctrines in diverse ways. 
 But the fires of persecution had strength- 
 ened their faith. They not only believed 
 implicitly in the divinity of their mar- 
 tyred Prophet, but they were disposed to 
 interpret his revelations in the manner 
 most consonant with their personal ex- 
 perience. They considered themselves the 
 Chosen People with whom God was ever 
 present, and against whose enemies God 
 was always ready to fight. Just as the 
 Puritans, smarting under the atrocious 
 discipline of the Star Chamber, readily 
 adopted as their own the fulminatious of 
 the Old Testament against the wicked in 
 authority, and were only too ready, when 
 opportunity offered, to smite with the 
 sword of Gideon, and consider the reek- 
 ing battle-field, on which their foes wel- 
 tered in blood, as a pleasing sight in the 
 eyes of the Almighty, so did the Mor- 
 mons incline to give effect to all the harsh 
 threatenings of the Bible, and to regard 
 as of no account the admonitions to be 
 slow to wrath and abounding in mercy. 
 
 " The spirit with which they were 
 ready to resist attack from without was 
 displayed in the works that were requisite 
 in order to render their position secure 
 and their existence easy. They labored 
 at their daily tasks as if they were vindi- 
 cating their sincerity and demonstrating 
 their piety. Under the double incentive? 
 of religious enthusiasm and individual 
 requirements they built houses, planted 
 fruit-trees, tilled fields, and reaped har- 
 vests. Even if no ignoble ambition ani- 
 mated their souls, the circumstances in 
 which they were placed furnished an irre- 
 sistible stimulus to exertion. For none 
 
The Mormons.] 
 
 UTAH. 
 
 [Tiie Mormons. 
 
 of them was any way of escape from the 
 Valley open ; and, unless all toiled to the 
 uttermost of their powers, to none was 
 subsistence certain. What was effected 
 under these conditions, all Utah bears 
 witness. 
 
 " With comparative security and un- 
 looked-for prosperity came a longing for 
 compensation as a reward for their pa- 
 tience under privations, bravery in the 
 face of obstacles, victory over great odds. 
 No longer apprehending the attacks of 
 declared enemies, they desired to evince 
 that they were a peculiar and an excep- 
 tional people working out an intricate 
 problem in a new sphere. In their eyes 
 the Old Testament had gradually become 
 an authority of great weight : its state- 
 ments had commended themselves to their 
 minds : when, then, it was proposed to 
 adopt as their own the rules of the Patri- 
 archs respecting marriage, the proposition 
 met with general acceptance, because it 
 chimed in with the prevailing sentiment. 
 Whether Brigham Young had really re- 
 ceived from Joseph Smith the ' Revelation 
 on Celestial Marriage ' which he promul- 
 gated in 1852 was not a circumstance 
 scanned too closely by those to whom the 
 revelation was addressed. To be differ- 
 ent in all things from the Gentiles was 
 dear to the hearts of the persecuted Lat- 
 ter-Day Saints. The indignation which 
 the Gentiles have displayed toward those 
 who openly practised polygamy has tend- 
 ed more thau any thing else to confirm the 
 Mormons in thcr notion as to the divinity 
 of plural marriage. 
 
 " Mormon principles have triumphed 
 all along the line ; yet, in the thorough- 
 ness of the victory, lurks the greatest 
 peril to the cause. The high-handed 
 measures which commanded cheerful as- 
 sent while the danger lasted have been 
 regarded with aversion and have excited 
 antipathy since the time has arrived for 
 enjoying the fruits of conquest. To the 
 vigor and foresight of Brigham Young, 
 and to the daring and devotion of col- 
 leagues not inferior to him in ability, the 
 Mormons are almost wholly indebted for 
 their prosperity. But, even while ac- 
 knowledging this, they hesitate to yield 
 uniform respect and implicit obedience 
 to those who originally guided their foot- 
 steps and sustained their efforts. They 
 
 see that the leaders have had their re- 
 ward in the form of positions of honor 
 and of large possessions. These leaders 
 cling to the authority which they have 
 acquired or usurped. They will not re- 
 linquish it save under compulsion. Hun- 
 dreds refuse to submit to its exercise. 
 Those who have stood forth and chal- 
 lenged the claims of Brigham Young, who 
 point out his shortcomings, who contest 
 his right to demand that he shall be 
 blindly obeyed, and who ridicule his pre- 
 tensions to be infallible, elicit sympathy 
 and aid from among the mass ; and the 
 warfare which was once waged by the Gen- 
 tiles against the Mormons promises to be 
 succeeded by an embittered strife between 
 Mormonism and Brigham Youngdom. 
 
 " The original and crying grievance of 
 the Mormons was that justice had inva- 
 riably and intentionally been denied them. 
 They were exiled from Missouri, they 
 were expelled from Illinois, because an 
 unjustifiable prejudice had been excited 
 to their detriment. No act of Congress 
 had they infringed, nor had they denied 
 the supremacy of the law of the land. 
 In turn they have become violators of 
 statutes and ruthless persecutors ; the 
 Gentiles have suffered at their hands in- 
 dignities quite as unbearable and injuries 
 nearly as unpardonable as those which 
 they underwent at the hands of the Gen- 
 tiles. The fountain, of justice is tainted 
 in Utah : the juries and judges are cor- 
 rupt or biassed. A righteous policy re- 
 quires that these gross abuses should be 
 extirpated, and that in the eye of the law 
 Mormon and Gentile should be absolutely 
 equal. To accomplish this should be the 
 endeavor and aim of American statesmen 
 and rulers. That more than this should 
 be undertaken or achieved, no right- 
 thinking man will desire. 
 
 " If Salt Lake Valley were to become 
 the home of a really free people, it would 
 be one of the glories of the American 
 Union. Its situation is unrivalled in this 
 part of the continent. A temperate cli- 
 mate blesses the inhabitants with good 
 health ; a fruitful soil yields them food 
 in abundance. The surrounding moun- 
 tains are rich in minerals ; the multitu- 
 dinous streams are alive with fish. Na- 
 ture has designed this valley to be a ter- 
 restrial paradise ; hitherto, the doings of 
 259 
 
Nevada.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Nevada. 
 
 man have frustrated, rather than for- 
 warded the designs of Nature. I found 
 the Mormons, as a body, very backward 
 and ignorant when compared with the 
 other dwellers on the American Conti- 
 nent. I found them reluctant to embody 
 their thoughts in words, afraid to speak 
 their minds lest they should be punished 
 for giving utterance to what was obnox- 
 ious to those in high places. The lead- 
 ers and rulers of the Mormons are, for 
 the most part, shrewd and determined 
 Yankees, who exercise a control over the 
 multitude as grinding and despotic as 
 that of the worst tyrants in history. 
 Neither Jew nor Christian can safely and 
 easily establish himself in Utah, either 
 for the sake of pleasure or for the pur- 
 
 poses of trade. All non-Mormons arc 
 subjected to a system of persecution skil- 
 fully organized and conducted with a 
 view to their expulsion from the Valley 
 of the Great Salt Lake. In the Territory 
 of Utah I found a parody on the religion 
 of the Bible and of the Koran, sanction- 
 ing and prescribing the treatment of 
 women, not as intellectual human beings, 
 but as mere human toys. Having had 
 this experience, I am unable to accept, 
 as a reply to all objections and a coun- 
 terbalance to all drawbacks, the incon- 
 testable facts that President Young 
 preaches the gospel of labor, and that 
 Mormon orchards yield annually many 
 thousand bushels of large ripe peaches 
 and rosy-cheeked apples." ' 
 
 N EVAD A, 
 
 Nevada forms the western side of the 
 Great Basin, enclosed by the Rocky 
 Mountains on the east, and the Sierra 
 Nevada range on the west ; the average 
 elevation of its valleys being at least 
 5,000 feet above tide-water, while very 
 little of it is as low as 4,000. It is 
 bounded on the north by Oregon and 
 Idaho, on the south and west by Califor- 
 nia, and on the east by Utah, and cm- 
 braces an area of about 83,500 square 
 miles. It extends from 37° to 42° N. lat., 
 and from 115° to 120° W. long. The length 
 north and south is about 348 miles ; the 
 greatest breadth is about 265 miles. 
 
 The history of Nevada dates from a 
 comparatively recent period. The Terri- 
 tory was organized March 2, 1861, up to 
 which time it formed part of the Terri- 
 tory of Utah. Prior to this, the Mor- 
 mons were in the majority, and the Gen- 
 tiles were dissatisfied with their own 
 condition. Having resolved upon sepa- 
 rating themselves from the Mormons, the 
 latter met together, passed resolutions, 
 and formed a territorial organization. 
 Congress approving of their conduct, 
 gave validity to the arrangements they 
 had made. The President appointed a 
 Governor over the new Territory; the 
 number of citizens rapidly increased ; 
 their ambition prompted them to desire 
 286 
 
 admission into the Union, which was 
 granted them, and in October, 1864, Ne- 
 vada became a State. 
 
 TJic climate is dry, and similar to that 
 of Utah. Rain seldom falls between the 
 months of April and October. 
 
 The population of Nevada in 1860 was 
 6,857. In the census of 1870 it is given 
 as 42,677. 
 
 Mountains, Soil, etc. — Nevada is an 
 elevated, mountainous, and semi-desert 
 region, the western part of which is on the 
 eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada. The 
 surface is broken by a succession of 
 mountain-ranges and intervening valleys 
 and sandy plains, the waters of which 
 never reach the sea. In the north cen- 
 tral part is the range called Humboldt 
 Mountains, and in the eastern part of the 
 State that called the East Humhoblt 
 Mountains, which extend in a northerly 
 and southerly direction. Westward from 
 the latter is a long, parallel metalliferous 
 range called the Toi/abe Mountains. A 
 great part of the Great Basin, or Fre- 
 mont's Basin, is included in Nevada. This 
 basin has an elevation of about 4,000 
 feet above the level of the sea. The soil 
 is generally sterile, and in many parts 
 covered with wild-sage. Nevada is al- 
 most without wood, save scrubby pines 
 and cedars. 
 
Rivers and Lakes.] 
 
 NEVADA. 
 
 [The Silver Mines. 
 
 Although neither diamonds, rubies, 
 emeralds, nor other precious stones, have 
 yet been found in this State, many stones 
 suited to the uses of the lapidary, from 
 their hardness and beauty, are abundant. 
 Jasper of every variety and shade of 
 color is met with throughout the State ; 
 cornelian is to be found in many places, 
 and is quite abundant at Cornelian Bay, 
 Lake Tahoe ; agates are also plentiful at 
 Lake Tahoe, at San Antonio, Nye Coun- 
 ty, at Aurora, and in many other locali- 
 ties. Fine moss agates are often picked 
 up by prospectors in their rambles among 
 the wild mountain-gorges and over the 
 stony table-lands. Amethysts are quite 
 abundant in the various mines upon the 
 Comstock ; those found in the mines at 
 Gold Hill are the largest and best. Gar- 
 nets are to be found in Washoe County, 
 near Steamboat Springs, but they are of 
 an inferior quality. Chalcedony is to be 
 found almost everywhere in the State. 
 Fine specimens may be obtained at 
 American Flat, and still finer ones in the 
 neighborhood of Aurora. At the south 
 end of Carson Valley, on the Aurora 
 road, good specimens of chrysolyte may 
 be found. The precious or fire opal has 
 never yet been found in the State, though 
 the common and wood opal occur. Pet- 
 rified wood is abundant, in fact, whole 
 trees may sometimes be seen. It can be 
 made into very handsome cane-heads and 
 seals, when cut and polished. In many 
 places in the State geodes are plentiful, 
 and nearly all of them, when broken, 
 are found to contain beautiful crystals 
 of various colors. Besides the stones 
 already mentioned, there are fine quartz- 
 crystals, and many specimens of quartz 
 containing gold and silver are to be seen 
 in cabinets, which would make fine seals 
 if properly cut. 
 
 EIVEE3 AND LAKES. 
 Nevada is generally arid, and has no 
 great rivers. The largest is the Humboldt 
 River, which rises near the northeaster- 
 ly extremity of the State, flows west- 
 ward in the greater part of its course, 
 drains the northern portion, and empties 
 itself into Humboldt Lake. In the south- 
 westerly part is the Walker River, which 
 flows into Walker Lake. Carson River 
 rises in the southwest, and enters Car- 
 
 son Lake after a course of about 100 miles. 
 As has been stated elswhere (page 115), 
 some streams of Nevada are absorbed 
 by the sands. There arc several lakes 
 in the State having no outlet. 
 
 Blaaisaltolalt lLal*:e is nearly 20 
 miles long, and 8 miles wide. 
 
 lPyramisl JLalte is situated near 
 the western portion of the State. It is 
 about 35 miles long, and 10 wide ; is en- 
 closed by precipitous walls of rock 
 which rise to a great height, and owes 
 its name to a pyramidal mount which is 
 about 600 feet above the surface of the 
 water. The lake abounds in trout of 
 large size and fine flavor, is of consider- 
 able depth, and is entirely surrounded by 
 precipitous mountains two or three thou- 
 sand feet high. The scenery is exceed- 
 ingly grand. Nevada, in fact, is one of 
 the most picturesque and interesting 
 countries in the world, and is almost 
 without a rival for the grandeur and sub- 
 limity of its mountain-views. 
 
 THE SILVER MINES. 
 
 The State of Nevada abounds in rich 
 stores of mineral wealth, including gold, 
 silver, quicksilver, lead, antimony, and 
 other precious metals. It is for its sil- 
 ver-mines, however, it is most celebrated. 
 The mining-region of Nevada is described 
 as an elevated semi-desert country ; its 
 surface a constant succession of longitu- 
 dinal mountain-ranges, with intervening 
 valleys and plains, most of which are in- 
 dependent basins, hemmed in by moun- 
 tains on all sides, and the whole system 
 without drainage to the sea. As early 
 as 1859, discoveries of silver in Nevada 
 had attracted the notice of adventurous 
 miners in all parts of the West. Ten years 
 had then elapsed since the gold excitement 
 iu California startled and fascinated the 
 world. The California quartz-mines were 
 rich as ever, but the individual miner 
 found great difficulty in getting a return 
 for his labor equal to that which he 
 could easily command before the water- 
 courses had been rifled of nuggets, and 
 all the gold-dust had been sifted from 
 the sand and gravel. To these disap- 
 pointed and desponding miners the news, 
 that silver was even more abundant in 
 Nevada than gold had ever been in Cali- 
 2G1 
 
Virginia City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Austin City. 
 
 fornia, was received with great joy, and 
 an immediate tush was made to the new 
 Potosi. The yield of the great Comstock 
 lode was such as to verify to the letter 
 the most favorable statements, and to 
 gratify the most sanguine hopes. 
 
 VIRGINIA DISTRICT. 
 
 Virginia, City, in Western Ne- 
 vada, was built within easy reach of this 
 lode, on the slope of Mount Davidson, at 
 an elevation of 0,200 feet, and the whole 
 district was honeycombed with mines. 
 The . city, which has a population of 
 about 10,000, has many good public 
 buildings and elegant private dwellings. 
 It connects with the Central Pacific Rail- 
 way, at Reno, by stage. (See page 116.) 
 
 The estimated value of the gold and 
 silver obtained in this district during ten 
 years is about $100,000,000. Sixteen 
 million dollars are believed to be the 
 gross annual yield. In commenting on 
 this fact, a recent traveller says : " The 
 sum is enormous, yet the proportion of 
 actual gain is very small. The net profit 
 is understood to be not greater than half 
 a million dollars. Worse than the in- 
 significance of the return is the prospect 
 that, unless a desperate experiment prove 
 successful, these mines will have to be 
 abandoned altogether. To avert this 
 calamity a tunnel is now being driven in- 
 to Mount Davidson with a view to inter- 
 sect the great Comstock lode at the depth 
 of 2,000 feet. The distance to be driven 
 is four miles. Mr. Sutro is the project- 
 or of the tunnel, and it has been named 
 after him. Opinions are divided as to 
 the merits of the enterprise. Its very 
 magnitude is regarded by some as an in- 
 superable bar to its success, while more 
 daring and confident spirits predict the 
 brilliant triumph of the gigantic under- 
 taking. One thing certain is, that the 
 Sutro Tunnel will either beggar its pro- 
 moters, or else be the means of making 
 each of them a Croesus." 
 
 REESE RIVER DISTRICT. 
 
 To the east of Virginia City is another 
 district, rich in silver deposits, which at- 
 tracted miners in 1862. This is known as 
 the Reese River District. The mines in it 
 do not yield large quantities of ore, but 
 the ore found in them is of a superior kind. 
 202 
 
 Austin City, the county-scat of 
 Lauder County, is located near the sum- 
 mit, of the Toyabe range of mountains, in 
 the midst of the Reese River mining-re- 
 gion. The characteristic ores of this re- 
 gion are chlorides of silver. Austin and 
 its vicinity have a population of about 
 4,500. It connects by stage with the 
 Union Pacific Railway at Argenta. (See 
 page 115.) 
 
 The spot which at present surpasses 
 all others, which has been more than a 
 nine-days' wonder, and the theatre of an 
 excitement which tends to increase rath- 
 er than abate, which has been the 
 haven of miners disgusted with the re- 
 ality elsewhere, and is one of the most 
 notable among the many rich reposito- 
 ries of silver treasure in the State of Ne- 
 vada, is the White Pine. 
 
 ■WHITE PINE DISTRICT. 
 This district, which lies due east of 
 Virginia City, was first prospected by 
 some adventurous miners who left Aus- 
 tin City in the spring of 1865 with the 
 design of carefully exploring untrodden 
 wilds in the hope of making their for- 
 tunes. During many months of hard 
 toil, continued with indomitable vigor, 
 and of trying privation borne with un- 
 flinching spirit, they prosecuted their 
 search for silver. Spring and summer 
 passed, and it was not until the autumn 
 that the prize was won. They then sat- 
 isfied themselves that what is now known 
 as Treasure Dill contained incalculable 
 stores of precious minerals. On the 
 10th of October they assembled, made 
 speeches and passed resolutions whereof 
 the gist is contained in the mining rec- 
 ords of the locality. The entry runs as 
 follows: "A company of miners met on 
 the above day for the purpose of forming 
 a district. Motion made and carried that 
 this district be known as the White Pine 
 District, bounded on the north by the 
 Red Hills, and running thence south to a 
 point whence the mountains run into a 
 foot-hill, thence east twelve miles, thence 
 north, and thence west to the place of 
 beginning.'' The district thus mapped 
 out had no attraction of scenery or site 
 to recommend it. The trees which grow 
 in the valleys or on the mountain-sides 
 are few in number and small in size. 
 
Hamilton City.] 
 
 NEVADA. 
 
 [Treasure City. 
 
 Desolation and sterility dominate the 
 landscape. All the year round the air 
 is chilly, while, during the long months 
 of winter, storms rage with almost in- 
 credible fury. The blast sweeps along 
 charged with snow, and dust, and gravel. 
 The name Po-go-nip, originally given to 
 thick white clouds of cold vapor, which 
 sometimes veil the mountain-tops and 
 sometimes fill the valleys, is employed to 
 characterize these terrible storms. " Tell 
 a miner acquainted with White Pine that 
 you have had to face the Po-go-nip, and 
 he will know at once that all your powers 
 of endurance have been put to the test." 
 
 Hamilton City, Shermantown, and 
 Treasure City, are the principal centres 
 of business in the district of White Pine. 
 
 Sffamilton City is the capital of 
 the county of White Pine. It is situated 
 at the base of Treasure Hill, 115 miles 
 from Palisade, on the Central Pacific 
 Railway, from which place it is reached 
 by stage. A daily newspaper is pub- 
 lished in the place. 
 
 Treasure City is two miles and 
 a half above Hamilton, and is perched 
 near the summit of Treasure Hill, at an 
 elevation of 9,100 feet above the level of 
 the sea. It is close to the Eberhardt, 
 one of the richest of the White Pine 
 mines, and it is to this it owes its busi- 
 ness advantages, as, on account of its 
 exposure, and the scarcity of wood and 
 water, the location is in every way in- 
 ferior to that of the towns at the base of 
 Treasure Hill, which are already ahead 
 of it in population. A daily newspaper 
 is printed here. Treasure City is reached 
 bv stage from Elko or Austin. (See page 
 114.) 
 
 The Eberhardt mine is to White Pine 
 what the famous Gould and Curry is to 
 Virginia City. Not till the spring of 
 1868 was it vigorously worked, and since 
 then the returns have been enormous. 
 Its value has been rated at millions : at 
 one time it was bought for twenty-five 
 dollars. A trustworthy writer has given 
 the following sketch of the appearance 
 of the mine underground : " At the door 
 a pack-train of Mexican mules is being 
 loaded with the precious ore for the mill 
 two miles to the southwest, and two thou- 
 sand feet lower down. In the shed men 
 are busy at a great pile of brown, blue, 
 
 red, green, and black rock, breaking it 
 to pieces and sorting it, the richest being 
 thrown aside for the crucible, and the 
 rest going into the sacks to be packed 
 away to tho mill. There is a princely 
 fortune in this pile of ore, which to the 
 uninitiated eye is but a heap of broken 
 rock fit only for building walls or mac- 
 adamizing public streets. Over one of 
 the hoisting-shafts there is a large wood- 
 en bucket with a rope and rude windlass, 
 such as you might see on the prospect- 
 ing-shaft of the poorest miner. It has 
 served for hoisting all this wealth to the 
 surface. In this bucket we descended 
 into the mine. A long, narrow chamber, 
 with dull, dark walls, and a few men at 
 work with pick and gad, were all that 
 the first glance revealed, and there was 
 a momentary feeling of disappointment. 
 A closer inspection showed that the 
 walls, the ceiling, the floor, were silver ; 
 even the very dust on the floor was sil- 
 ver. This lump will yield five dollars a 
 pound ; this six, this seven, this eight, 
 and this, which will flatten like lead under 
 the hammer, is worth within a fraction of 
 ten dollars a pound. They tell us that 
 there is a million dollars' worth of silver 
 piled up before our eyes in this gloomy 
 cavern, and such is indeed the fact." * 
 
 Keystone, Aurora, and Virgina, are the 
 names of other productive mines. 
 
 A recent report of the State Mineralo- 
 gist, for the two years ending with 1870, 
 shows the ores and metal shipped from 
 Eastern Nevada, by railroad, in 1809 and 
 1870. The figures for 1870 close with 
 November. In 1869 the amount sent to 
 California was 2,947,535 pounds; 1870, 
 exclusive of December, 12,030,609 pounds. 
 The increase since the opening of the 
 railroad, and facilities for shipment, has 
 been nearly 600 per cent. In twenty- 
 three months 9,489 tons of ore were 
 shipped, worth, on an average, $100 per 
 tou, or, in the aggregate, $948,900. In 
 addition, there were shipped from East- 
 ern Nevada metal, lead, and silver, ex- 
 tracted from base metal ores, in 1870: 
 To the West, 3,907,960 pounds; to the 
 East, 3,929,431 pounds. There are no 
 certain means of ascertaining the amount 
 of pure bullion shipped from Eastern Ne- 
 
 * Mr. A. S. Evans, in Overland Monthly for 
 March, 1869 p. Ti9, 
 
 263 
 
Idlewii.d Cave.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [California. 
 
 vada since January, 1 869. The railroad 
 has increased the yield of mines in twen- 
 ty-three months, so as to add $2,000,000 
 to the real wealth of the country, and the 
 production increasing at the rate of from 
 300 to 400 per cent, per annum. 
 
 IdLIcwilsl 4Js&ve. — This romantic 
 name is given to the mammoth cave dis- 
 covered at White Pine about a year ago, 
 when it was partially explored by a party 
 of five gentlemen. It is situated near 
 the north end of Blue Hill, a short dis- 
 tance west of the Truckee Mine, and first 
 came into notice by the bottom of the 
 shaft then being sunk in the Idlewild 
 Mine "dropping out." The party was 
 lowered down this shaft thirty feet to the 
 entrance of a steep incline nearly two 
 hundred feet in length, formed by the hand 
 of Nature. On each side of the incline 
 are large vaulted chambers, from fifteen to 
 thirty feet in length and width, and about 
 
 twenty feet in height — the roofs and walls 
 hung with stalactites of beautiful colors 
 and fantastic forms — the arches in the 
 chambers being composed of huge masses 
 of them. The entrance to the incline 
 from the shaft is small — sufficient only 
 to admit the passage of an ordinary-sized 
 man crawling through the opening. At 
 the termination of the incline is an im- 
 mense chamber which could only be 
 judged of by the eye — the entrance being 
 choked up by a large bowlder. Enough 
 was seen to know that its size was much 
 larger than any yet explored. There is 
 a strong draught downward from the en- 
 trance, showing that there must be an- 
 other opening far down in the bowels of 
 the earth to some unknown region, or 
 else that a living stream of water flows 
 underneath. The only living thing seen 
 in these silent vaults 7/as a bat flitting 
 through the chambers. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Tnrc State of California, without doubt, 
 contains a greater number and variety of 
 natural objects of interest and beauty — 
 more to impress the tourist with the 
 magnitude and resources of the country 
 and the future which is before it — than 
 any State in the Union. Independent, 
 however, of its numerous and varied 
 scenic attractions, California has a his- 
 tory all her own, which must ever be re- 
 plete with interest for the traveller, the 
 more so as he witnesses the astonishing 
 progress which it has made during the 
 last twenty years. The peninsula of 
 Lower California was discovered by the 
 expeditions of Cortez in 1534-'35. Up- 
 per California was seen by Cabrillo in 
 1512. Sir Francis Drake visited the 
 coast and discovered Jack's Harbor, on 
 the bay of Sir Francis Drake, a few miles 
 to the northward of the bay of San Fran- 
 cisco, in 1579 Francisco Vila landed in 
 1582, ami Juan del Fuca in 1505. In 
 1596 a military post was established at 
 Santa Cruz by Sebastian Viscanio. In 
 1769 the bay of San Francisco was dis- 
 covered by the early Spanish mission- 
 aries, wlio established some eighteen 
 264 
 
 missions in the country ; these continued 
 to flourish until after the Mexican Revo- 
 lution in 1822, when they fell into decay 
 under the new government. 
 
 Captain John Sutter •established him- 
 self near the present site of Sacramento 
 City in 1839. In 1846 the war broke 
 out between the United States and Mex- 
 ico, which resulted in the conquest and 
 purchase of California by the United 
 States. 
 
 The treaty ceding California and New 
 Mexico to the United States was dated at 
 the city of Guadalupe Hidalgo, February 
 2, 1848; ratified by the United States, 
 March 11, 1848, exchanged at Queretaro, 
 May 30, 1848, and proclaimed by the 
 President, July 4, 1848. California was 
 organized as a State, December 15, 1849, 
 and admitted into the Union, September 
 lit, 1850. 
 
 Gold was discovered in January, ISIS, 
 by .lames W. Marshall, in the employ of 
 Captain Sutter, at Sutter's Mill, on the 
 south fork of the American River, near 
 the present city of Sacramento. From 
 this date the unprecedented progress of 
 
 the country commenced, 
 
Mountains and Timber.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Scenery and Mines. 
 
 The State of California extends along the 
 Pacific coast nearly 750 miles from south- 
 east to northwest, with an average breadth 
 from east to west of 250 miles, contain- 
 ing an area of 1S7,500 square miles, or 
 nearly twice the size of Great Britain. 
 The whole country naturally falls into 
 three great divisions, viz. : First, the 
 great valleys of the Sacramento and San 
 Joaquin Rivers, with all their lateral val- 
 leys ; all of whose waters meet in the bay 
 of San Francisco, passing through the 
 Golden Gate to the Pacific Ocean. Sec- 
 ond, the portions of the Coast Range 
 north and south of the bay of San Fran- 
 cisco, where the country is drained by 
 streams falling directly into the Pacific, 
 sis the Klamath, Eel River, Russian River, 
 the Salinas, San Pedro, and San Ber- 
 nardino, with others of lesser magnitude. 
 Third, the country east of the Sierra Ne- 
 vada chain, the waters of which fall into 
 the Great Basin, having no outlet to the 
 ocean. 
 
 Mountains. — The ranges of mountains 
 comprise the Sierra Nevada, which divide 
 the State on the east from the Great 
 Basin, and the Coast Range on the West. 
 Between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast 
 Range lies the extensive country of the 
 first division, a valley of some 500 miles 
 in length, with an average breadth of 80 
 miles, with a rich soil and warm climate, 
 producing all the fruits of the warm re- 
 gion, with the products of the more tem- 
 perate climes. The lateral valleys, with 
 an elevation of from 1,000 to 5,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea, produce the 
 more hardy fruits and grains common 
 to the more northern States of the 
 Union. 
 
 Timber. — A belt of gigantic timber, 
 consisting of pines, firs, cedars, oaks, 
 etc , etc., extends the entire length of 
 the Sierra Nevada range, affording a 
 supply of wood that can never be ex- 
 hausted. The redwood forests furnish 
 the ties used for the construction of rail- 
 roads on the Pacific coast, and the sup- 
 plies for the South American railway 
 lines are drawn entirely from California. 
 
 The mining-region also stretches along 
 this range, extending on the north into 
 the Coast Mountains, passing into Ore- 
 gon with an average breadth of 40 or 50 
 miles, at some points extending from the 
 
 valley to near the summit of the Sierras, 
 a distance of 100 miles in breadth. 
 
 The second division, located near the 
 coast, contains thousands of beautiful 
 valleys, some of which are very exten- 
 sive, as that of the Salinas, whose outlet 
 is at the bay of Monterey and the coun- 
 try adjoining Los Angeles and San Diego. 
 This portion has a cooler climate than 
 the lower valleys of the first division, 
 owing to their proximity to the sea. It 
 yields every variety of product, from the 
 orange and other fruits of the warm re- 
 gion at Los Angeles, to the more tem- 
 perate clime and products of Humboldt 
 Bay and Trinity River at the north. Gold 
 is also found, and the richest quicksilver- 
 mines in the world. 
 
 Of the third division, the country east 
 of the Sierra Nevada, but little is known, 
 especially to the southeast, yet many 
 fine valleys occur, one of which is Car- 
 son's Valley, which now contains a large 
 population. 
 
 The great mineral belts of California are 
 four in number, and are thus described by 
 the San Francisco Alta California, in a 
 recent issue of that journal: ''Beginning 
 at the first foot-hills above our great ag- 
 ricultural plains we have the copper belt, 
 from which we have not made material 
 realizations. The next belt, as you as- 
 cend the mountain-range, is that in which 
 the great mother-vein is found. The 
 Hayward, the App, and the Mariposa 
 Companies' gold-mines, are in this belt. 
 There is much silver in the ores. The 
 mother-vein usually exceeds twelve feet 
 in thickness ; it has short pay-chutes and 
 long stretches of unproductive quartz. 
 The pay-chutes are narrow at the out- 
 crop, and seldom silver more than eight 
 dollars of metal to the ton of selected 
 rock. But the chutes widen and grow 
 richer in depth ; till, at 400 to 600 feet, 
 the yield is sixteen to twenty dollars to 
 the ton. Generally the rock is workable 
 by ordinary mill process ; but not over 
 sixty per cent, of the gold is saved by 
 present methods. The Hayward vein on 
 this great lead proves that at two thou- 
 sand feet there is no sign of giving out. 
 
 " The third belt, as you ascend, is 
 known as the Limestone Range, to dis- 
 tinguish it from the others where slato 
 and granite are the leading rocks. This 
 265 
 
The Mines.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. [Fruits, Vegetables, Etc. 
 
 third belt is also known as the Fockct 
 Range, becansc the pay-rock occurs, not 
 in regular chutes, but in pocket deposits. 
 Labor is too high to cover the risk of 
 finding these widely-separated pockets, 
 but the gold in them is more profuse 
 than in belt No. 2. Therefore, this belt 
 is but little explored. 
 
 " The fourth and last belt yet known 
 to us is well up in the Sierras. It has 
 not attracted much attention till recently. 
 It is only where there has been a break- 
 down in the mountains, that the quartz 
 veins show an outcrop here, which ren- 
 ders prospecting difficult. The prevail- 
 ing rock is slate. It is in fissures cross- 
 ing this rock that quartz-veins occur, 
 and it is only in quartz that gold is found, 
 in all our belts. The ores of this belt 
 are distinguished by their having a large 
 proportion of base metals, viz. : sulphu- 
 ret of iron, lead, zinc, and antimony, but 
 they are also richer in gold generally, 
 and the gold is more than usually dis- 
 seminated through the rock. The metal 
 appears in pay-chutes, as in belt No. 2, 
 and the encasing rock is so firm that 
 little timbering is needed in the working- 
 shafts. This belt has been very little ex- 
 plored. The Confidence mine and the 
 Soulsby, in Tuolumne County, are exam- 
 ples of the richness of ores in this belt. 
 Latterly, some of our San Francisco capi- 
 talists have opened out three veins in 
 this belt, near the famous Big-Tree 
 Grove of Calaveras, where the richness 
 of the ore has induced them to erect a 
 first-class twenty-stamp mill. This de- 
 velopment is drawing more attention to 
 that high mountain-range." 
 
 Tlie mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, 
 coal, and iron, arc of great richness, and 
 many of them are well worked. It has 
 for some years been supposed that the 
 gold and silver yield of California was 
 likely to become less and less, so that in 
 a generation or so the ore would be 
 exhausted. There is nothing to lead to 
 this conclusion. So far, at least, as the 
 deposits at the San Francisco Branch 
 Mint are an evidence, the yield is largely 
 increasing. These deposits for the first 
 eight months of 1870 were: of gold, 
 719,211 ounces, against 532,686 ounces 
 in 1st)'.), and 898,081 ounces in 1SG7. 
 The silver deposits in the same time were 
 '/GO 
 
 109,104 ounces, against 99,661 ounccg 
 for the previous year. California is still 
 the greatest gold-producing region in the 
 world. 
 
 Manufactures. — According to the cen- 
 sus of 1860, California had, in that year, 
 3,505 manufacturing establishments, with 
 a capital of $23,682,593, employing 24,- 
 266 persons, consuming raw material 
 worth $16,558,636, and producing manu- 
 factured articles worth $59,500,000. 
 The figures for 1870 show a great in- 
 crease, the average product of the few 
 previous years being §75,000,000 a year. 
 
 Fruits, Vegetables, etc. — California is a 
 great fruit-producing State. The size to 
 which its vegetables attain is almost in- 
 credible, pumpkins weighing 250 pounds, 
 squashes 150 pounds, beets 100 pounds, 
 and carrots 30 pounds; but, astonishing 
 ' as these figures may seem, it is easy to 
 understand how these results are ob- 
 tained where growth never ceases. The 
 apple, pear, strawberry, etc., reach pro- 
 portions no less surprising. The Califor- 
 nia fruit crop of 1870 is given by the 
 San Francisco Bulletin as follows: Ap- 
 ples, 20,755,000 pounds ; apricots, 2,133,- 
 775; blackberries, 1,050,000; cherries, 
 1,129,625; currants, 697,000 ; figs, 5,- 
 066,000 ; grapes, 1 1,644,000; nectarines, 
 720,000; peaches, 7,932,000; pears, 9,- 
 828,000 ; plums, 2,952,250 ; prunes, 337,- 
 750; raspberries, 610,000; strawberries, 
 1,957,000; quinces, 749,750; oranges, 
 2,466,000; lemons, 226,000 ; limes, 75,- 
 000 ; citron, 100,000. It is estimated that 
 at least 90 per cent, of all these crops go to 
 or through San Francisco, and the aggre- 
 gate value is greatly over §3,000,000. 
 
 The climate is generally salubrious and 
 genial, although the various geographi- 
 cal divisions of the State have various 
 temperatures. The winters are cold in pro- 
 portion to altitude in the Sierra Nevada. 
 North of lat. 35°, fogs prevail from May 
 to September, keeping the summers cool 
 on the immediate coast, but this influ- 
 ence decreases as one recedes from the 
 ocean and the summer days become hot- 
 ter. The nights, however, arc always 
 cool, except in the Colorado Desert. 
 
 The papulation of California in 1SG0 
 was 379,991 ; in ls7<> it was 560,285. 
 
 The total valuation of real estate and 
 personal property in the State is gi\ en 
 
Bay of San Francisco.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Bay of San Pablo 
 
 by the census of 1870 as $269,644,088, 
 against $139,654,667 in 1860. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 TO LAKE TAIIOE AND DONNEB LAKE. 
 
 By Western Pacific and Central Pacific Pail- 
 ways, and Stage, or by Steamer, via Pay of 
 San Francisco, Bay of San Pablo, Sacra- 
 mento Picer, Central Pacific Railway, and 
 
 Stage. 
 
 The two principal and most frequented 
 lakes in California are Tahoe and Don- 
 ner Lakes. They may be reached from 
 San Francisco by two ways : First, by 
 taking the Western Pacific Railway cars 
 (from Davis Street, near the Pacific 
 Street wharf) for Sacramento, there 
 connecting with the Central Pacific Rail- 
 way for Truckee, and thence to the lakes 
 by stage ; or by taking the California 
 Steam Navigation Company's steamer 
 (at Broadway Street wharf) for Sacra- 
 mento (touching at Benicia, Collinsville, 
 Rio Vista, and Freeport (113 miles), 
 taking the Central Pacific Railway cars 
 for Truckee, and travelling the rest of 
 the distance by rail and stage. 
 
 The route by rail between San Fran- 
 cisco and Truckee is the same as Route 
 XVIII. (See pages 116-121.) 
 
 California Steam Navigation Com- 
 pany's Line, Landings. — San Francisco 
 to Benicia, 30 miles ; Collinsville, 75 ; 
 Rio Vista, 90 ; Sacramento (connects 
 with steamers for Marysville and Red 
 Bluff, and with stages for all parts of 
 northern California and Oregon, also for 
 Stockton), 117. 
 
 BSay of San Francisco. — 
 Leaving the Broadway Street wharf, our 
 route lies northward up the Bay of San 
 Francisco, the island of Yerba Buena, 
 which belongs to the United States, and 
 is occupied as a fortification, lying to the 
 right, and serving as a partial wind- 
 screen for the town of Oakland on the 
 cast side of the bay, against the blasts, 
 which, during the summer months, come 
 fiercely through the narrow entrance of 
 the harbor. The island completely com- 
 mands the city and entrance to the bay. 
 It was called Yerba Buena by the Span- 
 iards, from its production of a peculiar 
 plant. The later Saxon settlers gave it 
 
 the less euphonious name of " Goat Isl- 
 and." 
 
 Farther on than Yerba Buena, and to 
 the left of the steamer route, is Angeles 
 Island, of several hundred acres extent, 
 separated from the western shore of the 
 bay by the narrow but deep Raccoon 
 Strait, through which, flows a strong tidal 
 and river current, to be duly considered 
 by vessels entering the harbor on an ebb- 
 tide, to avoid being driven on the south 
 shore of the inlet. The island shuts 
 from the view of the ascending naviga- 
 tor of the bay the little harbor of Sauce- 
 lito, off its west side, where formerly 
 whalers of the North Pacific, and subse- 
 quently the founders of San Francisco, 
 obtained supplies of fresh water. Thir- 
 teen miles from the city, on the west side 
 of the bay, just after passing an insular 
 " Red Rock," stands 
 
 fl v oint St. Quentin, on which 
 is built the State Penitentiary ; and 
 about three miles to the northeast of 
 this, at the head of a snug little harbor, 
 the village of San Rafael is seen nestling 
 in a pretty setting of verdure-clad hills. 
 
 San Rafael (15 miles) is the capi- 
 tal of Marin County. The absence of 
 ocean winds and fogs makes it a favorite 
 spot for the country residence of wealthy 
 San Franciscans. It connects by railroad 
 to San Quentin Landing, and with ferry- 
 boat to San Francisco. The population 
 is about 1,000. 
 
 I5ay of San Pablo. — A short 
 distance north of Point St. Quentin is the 
 narrow entrance to the Bay of San Pablo. 
 The passage is bounded on the east by 
 Point St. Pablo, and on the west by Point 
 St. Pedro ; two rocks near the former and 
 two near the latter, called The Brothers 
 and Sisters, by a little stretch of fancy 
 may be regarded as being occupied in the 
 pious duty of washing the feet of the apos- 
 tolic fathers. Many rocky islets scattered 
 over the face of the bay add to its pictu- 
 resque scenery. The background of the 
 shores, being offshooting spurs of the 
 Coast Range of mountains, on both sides, 
 adds to the beauties of the scene by its 
 graceful undulations, especially when the 
 foot-hills are clad in the livery of early 
 spring. The Ray of San Pablo looks 
 like a rapid and muddy embouchure of 
 the great Sacramento River, bearing the 
 267 
 
Straits of Cakquinez.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Sacramento. 
 
 floods of its turbid tributaries to the 
 ocean through a vast valley of the Coast 
 Mountains. To the northeast is Mare 
 liland. At this place is the United Slates 
 Navy-Yard, one of the most extensive 
 owned by the Government, and the only 
 one upon the Pacific coast. It embraces 
 extensive shops, storehouses, and a sec- 
 tional dry-dock. A strait separates the 
 island from the main-land, on which, oppo- 
 site to the public buildings, is the old 
 town of Vallejo, which will be described 
 in Route II. of California. Napa Creek, 
 which drains a part of the fertile valley 
 of the same name, and affords water com- 
 munication by steamboat between that 
 rich country and San Francisco, empties 
 into Mare Island Strait, a short distance 
 above Vallejo. 
 
 Leaving all these to the left of our 
 route, we pass eastward through the 
 Straits of Carquinez, which connect the 
 Bay of St. Pablo with the Bay of Suisun. 
 
 'JTlIie Straits of Carquinez 
 are about 8 miles long, and vary from $ 
 to 2 miles in width. To the north shore 
 of the straits, at the head of ship-naviga- 
 tion, stands the town of Bcnicia, our first 
 stopping-place. 
 
 liSenicia (30 miles') is so called in 
 honor of the wife of the brave old Mexi- 
 can frontiersman, General Vallejo. It 
 was formerly the capital of the State. 
 Near the town are the arsenal and bar- 
 racks belonging to the United States 
 Government. Many excellent educational 
 establishments, among which the only 
 law-school in the State, are situated here. 
 Extensive cement- works, tanneries, and a 
 large flouring-mill, form the chief ele- 
 ment of the local industry. A company 
 has also been organized, and the prelimi- 
 nary steps taken, for the early construc- 
 tion of a railroad from Benteia up the 
 Sacramento River Valley to Red Bluff, 
 with a branch to Sacramento. The con- 
 nection with San Francisco will be by 
 steamers from Benicia. It will traverse 
 the prosperous counties of Solano, Yolo, 
 and Colusa, and add greatly to their pros- 
 perity. Steamers for Stockton and Sui- 
 sun, as well as for Sacramento, touch at 
 Benicia. Population in 1870, 1,660. 
 
 'Flic EBay of Suisun.. — We now 
 enter the Bay of Suisun, another arm OI 
 continuation of the great Bav of San 
 208 
 
 Francisco ; here the waters of the Sacra- 
 mento and San Joaquin unite, the former 
 coming in from the north, and the latter 
 from the south. The growing village of 
 Suisun has become the outlet of a rich 
 agricultural region on account of being 
 connected with the north side of this bay 
 by means of a navigable slough. 
 
 Sacramento River. — Passing 
 through the bay, we soon enter the mouth 
 of the Sacramento River, about 45 miles 
 from San Francisco. Much of the land 
 adjoining this bay and the Sacramento 
 and San Joaquin Rivers is marshy, cov- 
 ered with tnles, a kind of bulrush. Abun- 
 dance of fine salmon are caught in this 
 river. Proceeding toward Sacramento, 
 we pass a low range of hills to the left. 
 Farther on the banks are low and the 
 country is marshy. Beyond, trees ap- 
 pear, and the river presents a more beau- 
 tiful appearance. Sometimes in autumn 
 the dry tules are on fire for miles, present- 
 ing a magnificent appearance to the pas- 
 senger on the steamer. The unimportant 
 landings of Collinsville^S miles) and Rio 
 Vista (90 miles) are passed, and we arrive 
 at length at 
 
 Sacramento (117 miles). This 
 city, the capital of California, has been 
 fully described in Route XVIII. (See 
 page 118.) ^ 
 
 At Sacramento we take the Central 
 Pacific Railway cars for Truckee. The 
 route between these two cities has been 
 described from page 116 to 118. At 
 Truckee carriages are in waiting to carry 
 passengers to the Donner Lake Hotel, and 
 there are stages about to start for the 
 Tahoe Hotel. (For description of Lakes 
 Donner and Tahoe, see pages 110, 117.) 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO WHITE SULPHUR 
 SPRINGS. CAZISTOGA SPRINGS THR 
 PETRIFIED FOREST. THE GREAT 
 GEYSERS, AND SEAGGS SPRINGS 
 
 By Steamer, via Napa Valley Railway, and 
 by Stage. 
 
 DISTANCES TO THE GET3EUS. 
 
 San Francisco to Vallejo, 28 miles ; 
 
 Suscol, 89 ; Napa City (connects with 
 
 stages for Suscol, Sonoma, Santa Rosa), 
 
 M ; YountvilIe,58; St. Helena, 02; Calis- 
 
Vallejo.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Calistoga. 
 
 toga (connects with stages for Cloverdale, 
 Healdsburg, Geysers) 71; Great Geysers, 
 99. 
 
 Steamers leave Front Street, San Fran- 
 cisco, daily at 8 a. m. and 4 p. m., for 
 Vallejo (28 miles), connecting with first- 
 class express-trains on the Napa Valley 
 Railway, for Calistoga Springs, and by 
 Foss's stages every morning for the Gey- 
 sers, and by stage for Skagg's Springs. 
 
 Fare to Calistoga $3.50. Until reaching 
 the Straits of Carquinez, the boat fol- 
 lows the track of the Sacramento boats. 
 (See page 26*7). Steering to the left, we 
 enter the narrow sheet of water between 
 Vallejo and Mare Island. (See page 268.) 
 
 The route to Calistoga lies through 
 Napa Valley, which is about 50 miles 
 long, 1 to wide, and in point of culti- 
 vation and beauty second to none on the 
 coast. 
 
 Vallejo (28 miles), the southern 
 terminus of the California Pacific Rail- 
 way, is a promising port, from which the 
 grain of Napa, Solano, and Yolo Coun- 
 ties is shipped. The harbor is 3 miles 
 long and half a mile wide, separating 
 the city from Mare Island, as has already 
 been stated. Vallejo has the first grain 
 elevator on the Pacific coast, and vessels 
 from the chief Atlantic and European 
 ports load grain at its wharves. The 
 population of the town in 1870 was 6,392. 
 
 Suscol (39 miles) is the point 
 where, in 1835, General Vallejo, with a 
 force of 600 Mexicans, defeated a large 
 number of Indians, in a bloody and de- 
 cisive battle, in which the latter lost 200 
 killed, and several hundred wounded. 
 
 Napa City (44 miles) is a thrifty 
 place of about 3,500 inhabitants, in the 
 centre of the valley, and surrounded by 
 a very fine agricultural region, rich in 
 fruits of all kinds, and in immense fields 
 of grain which stretch in every direction. 
 The climate is equable and salubrious. 
 A stage makes two trips a day to and 
 from Sonoma, connecting with the trains 
 at Napa City; fare, $1.00. A tri-weekly 
 stage runs from Napa City to Monticello, 
 in Berreyessa Valley (24 miles), passing 
 on to Knoxville, Lake County. There 
 are many beautiful drives in the environs 
 of Napa, viz. : to Santa Rosa, taking in 
 the famous wine-cellars of Sonoma, on 
 the way ; to Healdsburg and the Gey- 
 
 sers; to Calistoga; and to the White 
 Sulphur Springs. 
 
 'Tlie Napa Soda Spriugs are 
 in the foot-hills about 5 miles northeast 
 of the town. The water is rather pala- 
 table, and is said to possess valuable 
 medicinal properties. 
 
 Pope Valley Quicksilver 
 Klines are about 35 miles northeast of 
 Napa City. Their yield from June, 1870, 
 to May, 1871, was 1,175 flasks, worth 
 $76,116.39. About 50 men are employed, 
 and six retorts are in use, which will fuse 
 from 250 to 300 flasks a month. The 
 valley is about 10 miles long and from 
 one to two miles broad. It is finely cul- 
 tivated. 
 
 Voaiatville (53 miles) is in a fa- 
 mous wine-growing district. The quan- 
 tity of wine kept in store is said to be 
 about 100,000 gallons. Two hundred 
 acres of vines were planted in Yount- 
 ville in the spring of 1871. 
 
 !§t. Helena (62 miles) is a pretty 
 village, which promises to be 'he centre 
 of the grape and wine trade for this lo- 
 cality. From this place (and also from 
 Calistoga) stages run daily to White 
 Sulphur Springs. 
 
 ^Vkite Snlpkur Springs, a 
 quiet and pretty place, is a favorite sum- 
 mer resort for San Francisco families. 
 The springs are situated in a deep and 
 picturesque gorge of the mountains, which 
 rise on either side to a height of about 
 1,000 feet. The waters are quite cele- 
 brated for their medicinal properties. 
 There is a well-kept hotel at the place. 
 
 Calistoga (71 miles), the termi- 
 nus of the Napa Valley Railway, is a 
 handsome little town, with two hotels, 
 and cottages for the use of families. It 
 is supplied with pure water from a res- 
 ervoir on^the adjacent mountain-side, 
 and there are three bath-houses supplied 
 with water from neighboring springs. 
 The public warm swimming-bath, 40 feet 
 square, is one of the features of the 
 place. The scenery is exceedingly pic- 
 turesque, the well-cultivated fields, green 
 lawns, sunny slopes, and shaded villas, 
 contrasting pleasantly with the wild gran- 
 deur of the rugged mountains. Calisto- 
 ga lies in a valley a mile in width, encir- 
 cled by hills and mountains, covered with 
 oak, pine, maple, ash, and madrona. It ia 
 269 
 
Petrified Forest.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mount St. Helena. 
 
 the centre of a large teaming business, 
 the various routes connecting it with 
 Russian River Valley, Lake County, and 
 other points. Charges at the Calistoga 
 Hotel, §3.00 a day. Stages leave Calis- 
 toga twice a week for Lower Lake, and 
 irregularly for Harbirts Springs, 20 miles 
 north, a place much frequented by suf- 
 ferers from rheumatism. Stage leaves 
 daily for Healdsburg. 
 
 'i'lie Petrified. Forest, the 
 most recently discovered of the great nat- 
 ural wonders of California, is located five 
 miles southeast of Calistoga Hot Springs, 
 about 10 miles south of the summit of 
 Mount St. Helena. It will repay the 
 tourist to go the few miles out of the 
 route to the Geysers to examine the lo- 
 cality. The existence in this place of 
 several petrified trunks of trees was first 
 made public in July, 18*70, by Mr. Charles 
 II. Denison, of San Francisco. Soon after- 
 ward he wrote to the Bulletin of that 
 city, giving an account of the discovery. 
 
 He says : " A careful examination of 
 the locality where the first prostrate 
 trunks had been discovered, made it evi- 
 dent that those now on the surface had 
 all been weathered out of the volcanic 
 tufa and sandstones, which form the 
 summit of this part of the mountain- 
 ridge. Several large silicified trees were, 
 indeed, subsequently found in the vicini- 
 ty) projecting from the side of a steep 
 bluff, which had partially escaped denu- 
 dation. Portions of nearly one hundred 
 distinct trees, scattered over a tract 
 three or four miles iu extent, were found 
 by our party ; and the information we 
 received from hunters and others, fa- 
 miliar with the surrounding country, 
 renders it more than probable that the 
 same beds, containing similar masses of 
 silicified wood, extend ove^ a much 
 greater area. 
 
 " The fossil trees washing out of this 
 volcanic tufa were mostly of great size, 
 •and apeared to be closely related to some 
 of the modern forest-trees of the Pacific 
 coast, especially the gigantic conifers. 
 <>uc of the prostrate trunks examined 
 dining our explorations was only par- 
 tially exposed above the surface, dipping 
 with the strata about 10° to the north- 
 ward. Its accessible portion, evidently 
 but a small part of the original tree, 
 270 
 
 measured sixty-three feet in length, and, 
 although denuded of its bark and very 
 much weathered, was over seven feet in 
 diameter near its smaller end. On a high 
 summit, about a quarter of a mile west 
 of this point, two other large trunks were 
 found, one about five feet in diameter, 
 lying east and west, with thirty feet of its 
 length above the surface. The other 
 rested directly on this, dipping with the 
 strata to the north. The exposed frag- 
 ments of this trunk indicated that the 
 tree, when standing, could not have been 
 less than twelve feet in diameter. These 
 two trees had apparently fallen not far 
 from where they were embedded, as the 
 bark was well preserved both on the 
 main trunks and on the small branches, 
 numerous fragments of which were lying 
 near. Many other trees were found, nearly 
 or quite equal to these in size ; and all 
 those examined indicated a very large 
 general growth for the original forest. 
 
 "All the trees discovered were pros- 
 trate, and most of them, after their petri- 
 faction, had been broken transversely 
 into several sections, apparently by the 
 disturbance of the enclosing strata. A 
 majority of the trunks had a general 
 north and south direction, probably due 
 to the course of the current that covered 
 them with volcanic material, or perhaps 
 indicating, in some cases, the position in 
 which they had fallen. Several of the 
 trunks had portions of their roots still 
 attached, and some were evidently much 
 decayed internally, and worm-eaten before 
 their entombment. All the fossil-wood ob- 
 served was silicified, probably by means 
 of hot alkaline waters containing silica in 
 solution, a natural result of volcanic ac- 
 tion, especially when occurring in con- 
 nection with water, as was evidently the 
 case in the present instance. 
 
 " The trees, closely examined, appear 
 to be all conifers, and in their external 
 characters, especially in the bark, mode 
 of branching, and general habit of growth, 
 most nearly resemble the modern red- 
 woods still nourishing in the same region." 
 
 IVIouiit Si. Helena, an extinct 
 volcano, 4,343 feet high, is situated to 
 the northwest of Calistoga, from which 
 place an excellent trail leads to the sum- 
 mit, a distance of 10 miles. It is reason- 
 ably supposed that it was by the eruptions 
 
Healdsburg.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Great Geyser Springs. 
 
 from this mountain, many centuries ago, 
 that the petrified forest just described, 
 and which lies 10 miles south, was en- 
 tombed. Mount St. Helena is considered 
 by many as one of the most beautiful 
 mountains in California. 
 
 Me«al«lsl»aarg', the point of depart- 
 ure for the Geysers, is a pretty village of 
 about 1,000 inhabitants, in Russian River 
 Valley, one of the best wheat-regions in 
 the State. In summer it connects by stage 
 with Petaluma (32 miles), from which the 
 springs are reached in one day ; but in 
 winter, when the roads are heavy, and in 
 some places almost impassable, travellers 
 will find it necessary to remain overnight 
 at Healdsburg, proceeding thence to the 
 Geysers on horseback. 
 
 'JTlie Wrcat (Seyscr Springs 
 (99 miles) are situated in Sonoma Coun- 
 ty, in the midst of wild and picturesque 
 scenery. The medicinal and curative 
 properties of the waters are said to be 
 fully equal to those of Saratoga, or of 
 Baden-Baden and Aix-la-Chapelle in Eu- 
 rope. Leaving Healdsburg early in the 
 morning, a few miles' travel on the road 
 brings the traveller to Ray's Ranch, situ- 
 ated among the foot-hills, 61V feet above 
 the sea-level, and commanding a fine view 
 of Russian River Valley, the Coast Range, 
 Mount St. Helena, etc. From this point 
 the ascent is gradual for three miles, till 
 we reach Geyser (Godwin's) Peak, which 
 id 3,470 feet high. Here the view is 
 charming. The whole valley of Russian 
 River lies at our feet, extending from 
 southeast and south, where it joins Peta- 
 luma Valley, round to the northwest. 
 Beyond the valley extends the long line 
 of the Coast Mountains. To the south- 
 east rises Mount St. Helena. Directly 
 south, at a distance of 60 or 70 miles, 
 when the overhanging fog is not too 
 dense, may be discerned the waters of the 
 lovely bay and the blue waves of the 
 Pacific. In fine, clear weather the view 
 from this peak is among the finest to be 
 had in all this lovely region. The sides 
 of the peak to its summit are covered 
 with a thick growth of tangled chaparraL 
 Leaving the summit, the trail conducts 
 the traveller along a narrow ridge called 
 by the unpoetieal name of the " Hog's 
 Back," which divides the waters of Flu- 
 ton, River and Sulphur Creek. 
 
 Sulphur Creek runs through the whole 
 extent of the valley, and is well supplied 
 with mountain-trout. The hills abound 
 with deer and other game. On the north 
 side is the wonderful Geyser Canon, and 
 all the celebrated geysers or medicinal 
 springs. Among the natural products is 
 an eye-water, also soda-water, sulphur, 
 and acidulated springs, in both a cold and 
 boiling state, which are used as efficacious 
 remedies for cutaneous and rheumatic 
 diseases. 
 
 The following is from Lieutenant David- 
 son's account of these " geysers/' explored 
 by him while employed in the United 
 States Coast Survey. After giving the 
 trigonometrical determinations of the 
 peaks and mountains, he writes : " De- 
 scending from the hotel about 75 feet, we 
 first meet the ' spring of iron, sulphur, and 
 soda,' temperature 73° Fahr. The first 
 spring, going up the Geyser gulch, is the 
 ' tepid alum and iron incrusted,' tempera- 
 ture 97° S., and with a very heavy irides- 
 cent incrustation of iron, which forms in 
 a single night. Twenty feet from this we 
 pass the Medicated Geyser Bath, tempera- 
 ture 88° 8', and containing ammonia, Ep- 
 som salts, magnesia, sulphur, iron, etc. 
 We collected crystals of Epsom salts two 
 inches in length. Higher up, the Spring 
 of Boiling Alum and Sulphur has a tem- 
 perature of 156° ; so, also, ' Black Sul- 
 phur,' quite near it. The Epsom Sails 
 Spring has a temperature of 146°, and 
 within six feet of it is a spring of iro?i t 
 srilphur, and salts, at the boiling-point. 
 Soon we come upon the Boiling Black 
 Sulphur Spring, roaring and tearing con- 
 tinually. As we wander over rock, heated 
 ground, and thick deposits of sulphur, 
 salts, ammonia, tartaric acid, magnesia, 
 etc., we try our thermometer in the gey- 
 ser-stream, a combination of every kind 
 of medicated water, and find it rises up 
 to 102°. 
 
 " The ' Witches' Caldron ' is over seven 
 feet in diameter, of unknown depth. The 
 contents are thrown up about two or 
 three feet high, in a state of great ebul- 
 lition. It is semi-liquid, blacker than ink, 
 and contrasts with the volumes of vapor 
 arising from it ; temperature 195° 5'. 
 Opposite is a boiling alum-spring, very 
 strongly impregnated; temperature 176°. 
 Within 12 feet is an intermittent scald- 
 271 
 
Great Geyser Springs.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Skagg's Springs. 
 
 ing spring, from which issue streams and 
 jets of boiling water. Wo have seen 
 them ejected over 15 feet. 
 
 "But the glory of all is the ' Steamboat 
 Geyser,' resounding like a high-pressure 
 seven-boiler boat blowing oft' steam, SO 
 heated as to be invisible until it is six feet 
 from the mouth. Just above this the 
 gulch divides ; up the left or western one 
 are many hot springs, but the ' Scalding 
 Steam Iron Bath ' is the most important ; 
 temperature 183°. About 150 feet above 
 all apparent action we find a smooth, 
 tenacious, plastic, beautiful clay; temper- 
 ature 167°. From this point you stand and 
 overlook the ceaseless action, the roar, 
 steam, groans, and bubbling, of a hun- 
 dred boiling, medicated springs, while 
 the steam ascends 100 feet above them 
 all. Following the usually-travelled path, 
 we pass over the ' Mountain of Fire,' 
 with its hundred orifices, thence through 
 the ' Alkali Lake ; ' then we pass cal- 
 drons of black, sulphurous, boiling water, 
 some moving and spluttering with violent 
 ebullition. One white sulphur spring we 
 found quite clear and up to the boiling- 
 point. At thousands of orifices you find 
 hot, scalding steam escaping and form- 
 ing beautiful deposits of arrowy sulphur 
 crystals. 
 
 " Our next visit carried us up the Plu- 
 ton, on the north bank, past the ' Ove?is,' 
 hot with escaping steam, to the ' Eye- Wa- 
 ter Boiling Spring,' celebrated for its reme- 
 dial effects upon all manner of inflamed 
 and weak eyes. Quite close to it is a 
 very concentrated alum-spring; tempera- 
 ture 73° 5'. Higher up is a sweetish 
 "■Iron and Soda Spring," 15 feet by 8; 
 and 12 feet above is the ' Cold Sxla and 
 Iron Springs,' incrusted with iron, with 
 a deposit of soda, strong tonic, and in- 
 viting ; temperature 50°. It is 12 feet 
 by 5, and affords a large supply. The 
 Pluton in the shade was 61°, with many 
 tine pools for bathing, and above for trout- 
 fishing." 
 
 The " Indian Springs" are nearly a 
 mile down the canon. The boiling water 
 comes out clear as ice. This is the old 
 medicated spring, where; many a poor 
 aborigine has been carried over the 
 mountains to have the disease driven 
 out, of him by these powerful waters. 
 One of the wonders of the place is that 
 272 
 
 grass, shrubs, and huge trees, should 
 grow on its very edge, and even over- 
 hang in many places the seething cal- 
 drons below. The most varied wood 
 abound — oak, pine, sycamore, willow, 
 alder, laurel, and madrona. 
 
 Bayard Taylor, describing his visit to 
 the geysers, says : " The scenery is finer 
 than tiiat of the Lower Alps." Of the 
 Witches' Caldron, he writes : "A horrible 
 mouth yawns in the black rock, belching 
 forth tremendous volumes of sulphurous 
 vapor. Approaching as near as we dare, 
 and looking in, we see the black waters 
 boiling in mad, pitiless fury, foaming 
 around the sides of the prison." 
 
 It is quite a common thing for visitors 
 to take eggs to the gcysersand boil them 
 in the springs. After inspecting the 
 springs, it is worth the visitor's while to 
 climb the mountains on the north side 
 of the Pluton, and take a view of Clear 
 Lake and the surrounding landscape. 
 (See Route III. of California.) But, 
 perhaps, as a late writer has remarked, 
 the scene which would delight a lover 
 of Nature most can be obtained by rising 
 early and walking back half a mile upon 
 the trail which descends to the hotel: 
 " It is to see the gorgeous tints of the 
 eastern sky, as the sun comes climbing 
 up behind the distant mountains, and 
 afterward to watch his long, slanting 
 rays in the illuminated mist, as they come 
 streaming down the canon of the Pluton, 
 flashing on the water in dots and splashes 
 of dazzling light, and tipping the rich 
 shadows of the closely-woven foliage with 
 a fringe of gold." 
 
 Slcag-g's Springs . — From 
 Healdsburg, stages run every day to 
 Skagg's Springs. They are more easily 
 reached than the Geysers, and are much 
 frequented by invalids. The stage-route 
 from Healdsburg is through Windsor (6 
 miles), to Santa Rosa (16 miles). Rail- 
 way cars go to Petaluma (32 miles). (Ste 
 Route III. of California.) 
 
 JIOUTB III. 
 
 sax fi:a VCISOO TO SKAGG'S SPRING* 
 
 A\I> Till-; GREAT GEYSERS. 
 
 By Steamer, via Wort/ism Pacific Railway 
 
 and by Stage. 
 
 Distances. — San Francisco to Dona- 
 hue, 40 miles ; Petaluma, 46" ; Santa 
 
DONAntTE.] 
 
 JALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Santa Rosa. 
 
 Rosa, 62£; Mark West, 70-J-; Windsor, 
 72 ; Ilealdsburg, 80 ; Geysers, 100 ; 
 Skagg's Springs, 94. 
 
 The steamer Sacramento leaves Jack- 
 son Street wharf, San Francisco, at 8.30 
 a. m., arriving at Donahue at 11.20 a. m., 
 to connect with trains of the old North- 
 ern Paafic Railway. After a pleasant 
 two hours and a half sail up the bay of 
 San Francisco into St. Pablo Bay, the 
 boat enters the estuary of Fetaluma 
 Creek, and arrives at Donahue. 
 
 I>on<iliiie is the southern terminus 
 of the Northern Pacific Railway, project- 
 ed to run from Saucelito to Humboldt 
 Ray, via Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Ilealds- 
 burg, and Cloverdale. The San Francis- 
 co & Humboldt Bay Railway Company, 
 organized in 18G8, originally had charge 
 of the enterprise. Little was done by 
 this organization, and in 1869 a new 
 company, called the San Francisco & 
 North Pacific Railway Company, was 
 formed, to which the San Francisco & 
 Humboldt Bay Railway Company trans- 
 ferred all its franchises, rights of way, 
 etc. Nothing was accomplished, how- 
 ever, by the new organization, until Au- 
 gust, 1870, when Peter Donahue bought 
 the stock of the company, and prosecuted 
 the work of the road with so much vigor 
 that, on the last day in 1870, he had cars 
 running from the new town of Donahue 
 to Santa Rosa, a distance of 22^ miles. 
 The road, in May, 1871, was completed 
 to Mark West, 8 miles north of Santa 
 Rosa, and later in the year was finished 
 to Healdsburg. Mr. Donahue subse- 
 quently sold the road for $750,000 to 
 the California Pacific Railway Company. 
 Stages from Donahue connect with So- 
 noma, fare $1.50. 
 
 E'Vdst loan :i (46 miles), the princi- 
 pal city of Sonoma County, in 1870 had 
 a population of 2,868 inhabitants, and at 
 present has over 5,000. It is 48 miles 
 northwest of San Francisco, and is sit- 
 uated on Petaluma Creek, at the head of 
 navigation. There are many large ware- 
 houses in the place, one of brick, 150 
 feet square and 27 feet high, in which 
 immense quantities of grain are stored. 
 The Petaluma Theatre, 60 by 100 feet, 
 is a handsome and well-appointed house. 
 The American Hotel, a fine building, is 
 well kept. Stages leave for Bloomfield 
 
 daily, at 12.30 p. m. ; for Bodega and 
 Duncan's Mills, tri-weekly. Distance to 
 Bloomfield, 15 miles; fare, $1.50; Bo- 
 dega, 25 miles; fare, $2.50; Duncan's 
 Mills, 40 miles ; fare, $4.00. Leave Duu- 
 can's Mills Wednesday and Sunday morn- 
 ings for Point Arenas. Stages for Two 
 Rock and Tomales start every day (Sun- 
 days excepted) at 12.30 p. M. Fare to 
 Two Rock, $1.00; to Tomales, 16 miles, 
 $1.50. Stages for San Rafael, 21 miles 
 distant, depart Mondays, Wednesdays, 
 and Fridays, at 7 a. m. ; fare, $2.00. 
 Stages leave for Nicasio, Wednesdays 
 and Fridays, at 2 p. M. ; distance, 16 miles ; 
 fare, $1.50. For Whitman's Store, Tues- 
 days, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; dis- 
 tance, 18 miles; fare, $1.50. 
 
 A portion of the Humboldt tC' Saucelito 
 Railway has been built, and is in opera- 
 tion from the head of navigation near 
 Petaluma to Santa Rosa, 16 miles. It 
 is eventually to be extended southerly 
 to Saucelito, on the bay, directly oppo- 
 site San Francisco, and northwardly to 
 Humboldt Bay. 
 
 Nant5i SSosa, the capital of Sono- 
 ma County, in 1870 had a population of 
 2,901 inhabitants. It is situated on Santa 
 Rosa Creek, a tributary to Russian River. 
 The Methodist college has recently been 
 transferred from Vacaville to this place. 
 Kessing Hotel, board $2.00 per day, ia 
 said to be a good house. From the cu- 
 pola of the building there is a splendid 
 view of the Santa Rosa Valley, with St. 
 Helena looming up to the northeast, and 
 Geyser Peak to the northwest. Stages 
 run regularly to the following points: 
 Mark West, 6 miles north ; Windsor, 10; 
 Healdsburg, 16; Sonoma, 16; Napa, 28; 
 Sebastopol, 7 ; Feuston, 14 ; Bodega Cor- 
 ners, 17; Bodega Bay, 20; Duncan's 
 Mill, at the mouth of Russian River, 25 ; 
 Fort Ross, 37 ; Timber Cove, 40 ; Salt 
 Point, 32 ; Fisk's Mill, 50 ; Fisherman's 
 Bay, 44 ; and to the mouth of the Wal- 
 halla, 56. 
 
 Healdsburg (80 miles). (See 
 page 271.) 
 
 The routes from this place to Skagg's 
 
 Springs and to the geysers have been 
 
 described in Route II. of California. 
 
 The road is completed 12 miles beyond 
 
 Healdsburg to Cloverdale. 
 
 273 
 
Lower Lake.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Lakeport. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO TTTE CLEAR LAKE 
 REGION {BUNTINO-GRO UND3). 
 
 Via, Steamer, Napa Yallcij Railway, and 
 Stage. 
 
 Distances. — San Francisco to Calis- 
 toga, 71 miles (connects with Napa Val- 
 ley Railway): Liley's Mill, 80; Brad- 
 ford's, 83 ; Loconomo Valley. 89 ; Coyote 
 Valley, 92 ; Lower Lake, 106 ; Clear 
 Lake, 112; Kelseyville, 122; Lakeport, 
 131. 
 
 The route from San Francisco to Calis- 
 toga has been described in Route II. of 
 California. (See page 268.) 
 
 The picturesque region of Clear Lake 
 is the most extensive, and most frequent- 
 ed hunting-ground in this part of Cali- 
 fornia. It abounds in deer, bears, pan- 
 thers, hare, squirrels, foxes, grouse, quail, 
 pigeons, geese, and ducks, and its waters 
 teem with many kinds of delicious fish. 
 
 Stages leave Calistoga at 8 o'clock a. 
 M. for Lower Lake and Lakeport. Fare 
 to Lakeport, $5.00. This is a charming 
 drive. Coming out of Napa Valley at 
 Calistoga, we ascend Mount St. Helena 
 (sec page270)by an easy grade. Early in 
 the morning the reflection of the sun 
 upon the mountains is very beautiful. 
 At the Toll-House (8 miles) we begin the 
 descent into Loconomo Valley. Middle- 
 ion (20 miles), an infant city, is a station 
 for changing horses. Three miles to the 
 northwest of this place is Harbin's Springs. 
 Ghienoc (24 miles) lies in Coyote Valley, 
 a fertile tract, containing about 10,000 
 acres. Passing over Clear Lake Moun- 
 tain, where quail are very plentiful, we 
 come to Cache Creek Valley. Cache 
 Creek is the outlet of Clear Lake. 
 
 flower I-ialce (106 miles). The 
 town of Lower Lake, 30 miles from Calis- 
 toga, is the centre of a rich hunting-lo- 
 cality, where duck, geese, quail, and deer 
 abound in season. Trout and perch may 
 be taken from the middle of April to the 
 middle of June. Wild-pigeons fly about 
 in dense flocks in easy gun-range. The 
 Virginia House is said to be a good ho- 
 tel. Its proprietor, Mr. R. II. Lawrence, 
 is an old sportsman, and will give the 
 tourist any information he may require 
 concerning hunting in the Clear Lake 
 region. 
 
 2H 
 
 Clear Lake may be seen to advantage 
 from the road between Lower Lake and 
 the Sulphur Bank. 
 
 Bartlctt Springs lie 25 miles north of 
 Lower Lake. The Redington and Man- 
 hattan Quicksilver Mines, which are 
 highly productive, lie 18 miles south. 
 
 Seigler Springs is a favorite 
 resort for invalids. It is six miles west 
 of Lower Lake. There is a good hotel 
 at the place. 
 
 Clear !L:al»e (112 miles) is about 
 25 miles long, and from two to six miles 
 wide, and averages about 35 feet in 
 depth. It contains several small islands, 
 among which are Coyempo and Alempo. 
 The former was once the site of an In- 
 dian village; Salvador, the chief of the 
 Lake Indians, resides in the latter place. 
 The waters of the lake are supplied 
 chiefly from springs below its surface, 
 which are of various temperatures. Some 
 of them are of pure water, and others are 
 strongly chalybeate. Hot and mineral 
 springs are found throughout the Clear 
 Lake region. 
 
 From Lower Lake to Manning Lake 
 is five miles. 
 
 Kelseyville (122 miles), a village 
 on Kelsey Creek, owes its name to An- 
 drew Kelsey, an early settler, who was 
 murdered by the Indians in 1S52. A 
 detachment of United States troops sub- 
 sequently avenged his death by defeating 
 the savages in a great battle upon Alempo 
 Island. There is a gas-hill at Kelsey- 
 ville. It is only necessary to make an 
 incision in the earth and to apply a 
 match in order to obtain a jet of gas 
 that will burn for nearly live minutes. 
 Some time ago a hole was dug seven 
 feet, and a pipe put in it, from which the 
 gas burned for several weeks, and was 
 then extinguished. 
 
 IVIount Uncle Sam, or, as it is 
 called by the Indians, Co-noke-ti, a re- 
 markable mountain 15 miles from Lake- 
 port, is about 2,500 feet high. On the 
 side fronting the lake it is nearly perpen- 
 dicular. Soda Bag, which is at its base, 
 contains innumerable soda-springs, which 
 bubble up from the lake and from the 
 shore. 
 
 ILnl&cport (131 miles), the capital 
 of Lake County, is a promising town, 
 near the shore of the lake in Big Valley. 
 
San Rafael.] 
 
 California. 
 
 [Mount Diablo. 
 
 There are capital hunting, boating, and 
 fishing, at this place. At the Lakeport 
 Hotel the charges for board are $2.00 
 per day, or $7.00 a week. Boats, 50 
 cents to $1.00 per day, or, with a boat- 
 man, $2.00 to $5.00 per day.' Stages 
 run from Lakeport to Cloverdale, Ukiah, 
 and Upper Lake. At Cloverdale they 
 connect with railway described in Route 
 III. 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 8AXT FRANGISCO TO SAN RAFAEL AND 
 MOUNT TAMALPAIS. 
 
 By Steamer " Contra Costa," San. Rafael & 
 San Quentin Railway, and on Horseback. 
 
 Distances. — San Quentin, 12 miles ; 
 San Rafael, 14; Ross's Lauding, 16£; 
 Summit of Tamaipais, 26. 
 
 The steamer Contra Gosta leaves the 
 ferry-dock, Davis Street, near Vallejo 
 Street, daily, except on Sunday, for 
 Point San Quentin, which projects into 
 the bay about 12 miles north of San 
 Francisco. As the ascent of the moun- 
 tain cannot be made conveniently on the 
 same day, the tourist can take his choice 
 of the hours of starting. The steamer 
 connects on each trip with San Rafael & 
 San Quentin Railway for San Rafael. 
 
 P4jam <^Bie5iliu (12 miles). {See 
 page 267.) 
 
 Sail Riafael (14 miles). (/Seepage 
 267.) Good saddle-horses may be had 
 at this place. The distance from San 
 Rafael to the summit of Mount Tamal- 
 pais is about 12 miles. The ascent may 
 be made in about three hours. We follow 
 the stage-road for 2£ miles to Ross's 
 Landing, from which point no particular 
 direction can. be given on paper. The 
 ascent is steep and tedious, but is not 
 dangerous. 
 
 Mount Tamalpais is 2,597 
 feet high. Its summits, of which there 
 are three, consist of metamorphic sand- 
 stone, in some places marked by quartz- 
 veins having a banded structure. Heavy 
 masses of serpentine occur on its west- 
 ern and northern slope. A ridge of this 
 material, nearly 2,000 feet high, extends 
 several miles to the northwest. On a clear 
 day the view from the top of the moun- 
 tain is magnificent. 
 
 The tourist may vary the trip by re- 
 turning by stage to Saucelito, and thenee 
 
 by ferry to San Francisco. The round 
 trip may be made in about 30 hours. 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO MOUNT DIABLO. 
 
 Via San Francisco & Oregon Railway, fry 
 Reamlrifs and Johnson's Stages, and on 
 Horseback. 
 
 Distances. — Broadway Station, 8 miles; 
 Lafayette, 22 ; Walnut Creek, 25 ; Pa- 
 checo, 31 ; Clayton, 33 ; Mount Diablo 
 Summit, 47. 
 
 The Oakland ferry-boat leaves Pacific 
 Street wharf daily, connecting at Oak- 
 land landing with the cars of the Ban 
 Francisco & Orcr/on Railway, for Broad- 
 way Station (8 miles). The tourist can 
 leave San Francisco by early ferry-boat, 
 enabling him, if he desires, to spend 
 several hours in Oakland. L. M. Beau- 
 dry's stages leave Broadway Station for 
 Pacheco (23 miles), passing through La- 
 fayette (14 miles), and Walnut Creek 
 (17 miles). S. W. Johnson's stages, run- 
 ning from Martinez to Somerville, pas3 
 through Pacheco for Clayton (8 miles). 
 
 IPucneco (31 miles), a town of 
 about 500 population, in Contra Costa 
 County, is the shipping-port of the agri- 
 cultural region of the Diablo and San 
 Ramon Valleys. 
 
 Clayton. (30 miles) is a pleasant 
 little village. At this place we leave the 
 stage, and, accompanied by a guide (for 
 the trail in some places is steep and dan- 
 gerous), start on horseback for the moun- 
 tains. The ascent may be made in a 
 little more than two hours. There is a 
 good carriage-road following the course 
 of a stream through a deep canon, for 
 four miles south from Clayton. At the end 
 of this road, at a farm-house, we turn to 
 the right and follow the cut trail in a 
 westerly course to Deer Flat, where are 
 two huts and a spring of water. 
 
 Mount ]>ia,1»to. — After crossing 
 the flat, the trail extends in a southeast- 
 erly direction to the top of a ridge which 
 is in sight from Deer Flat ; then turns to 
 the east and lies along the top of the 
 ridge 2-J- miles to the summit, which is 
 3,876 feet above the level of the sea. 
 The view is superior to any in the State, 
 and many travellers consider it equal to 
 275 
 
Stations.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mission San Jose. 
 
 any in the world. It iucludes all the 
 country and towns around San Francis- 
 co, San Pablo, and Suisun Bays, and the 
 valleys of San Joaquin and Sacramento, 
 and the mountain-peaks of the Coast 
 Range and Sierra Nevada. The tourist 
 should have a good field-glass with him. 
 
 Ret uraing to Clayton, it would be well 
 to take a horse and buggy and visit the 
 coal-mines at Nortonville, six miles dis- 
 tant. The road is good, and leads through 
 a rough and mountainous region. 
 
 Stages leave Clayton for Martinez (13 
 miles), connecting at Martinez with ferry- 
 boat which conveys the tourist across 
 the Straits of Carquincz (two miles) to 
 Bcnicia, a flourishing town. (See page 
 268.) At Benicia direct communication 
 is made with steamer for San Francisco 
 (86 miles). The round trip may be made 
 in 48 hours. 
 
 ROUTE VII. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO WARM SPRINGS, 
 ALAMEDA COUNTY. 
 
 Via San Francisco c& Alameda Railway, and 
 Fern/, and by Liston's Stages. 
 
 Stations. — San Francisco & Alameda 
 Railway: San Francisco to Alameda 
 Point, 6* miles ; Woodstock, 7£ ; Mas- 
 ticks, 9; Encinal, 11; Alameda, 12; 
 Fruit Vale, 12*; High Street, 13 ; Daw- 
 son's, 13*; Fitch's, 14* ; Jones's, 16; 
 San Leandro, 18 ; Junction, 19*; Ash- 
 land, 201; Castro Valley, 21* ; Hay- 
 ward's, 22$. (Stages connect for Mount 
 Eden, Alvarado, Ccntreville, Mission San 
 Jose, Saratago House and Warm Springs. 
 Also for Dublin, Bleasonton, Laddsville, 
 and Summit.) 
 
 Stations. — Liston's Stage Line : San 
 Francisco to Mount Eden, 25* miles ; 
 Alvarado, 28$ ; Centreville, 32$; Wash- 
 ington Corners, 26 ; Mission San Jose, 
 38; Warm Springs (connects with Sccly's 
 line of stages for Milpitas and San Jose), 
 41. 
 
 The ferry-boat Alameda leaves the 
 wharf on Davis Street, between Pacific 
 unci Broad Streets, for Alameda Landing, 
 connecting on the wharf with the San 
 Francisco <i' Alameda Railway trains for 
 Hayward's (22 J miles). The route lies 
 through the beautiful grove of oaks in 
 276 
 
 the midst of which stands the pleasant 
 village of Alameda. 
 
 Alameda (12 miles). (Sec pnt^o 
 120.) 
 
 From Alameda the route to Hayward's 
 lies through the most fertile and best cul- 
 tivated land around San Francisco Bay. 
 
 IHaywara's (22* miles) is the 
 most beautifully situated village in Ala- 
 meda County, lying among the foot-hills 
 of the Contra Costa Range, in the midst 
 of charming scenery. It is the depot 
 for the grain from Amador, Livermore, 
 and Castro Valleys, and has the chief 
 cattle-market in the State. The village 
 suffered severely by the earthquake of Oc- 
 tober, 1868, which completely destroyed 
 a brick warehouse 400 by 60 feet, one of 
 the largest in California. The tourist 
 should spend a few hours in the place. 
 
 Daily stages leave Hayward's (19 miles) 
 for the Warm Springs, via Mount Eden 
 (3 miles), Alvarado (6 miles), Centreville 
 10 miles), Washington Comers (14 
 miles), Mission San Jose (16 miles.) 
 
 Tlac Warm ^priisfrs (41 miles) 
 are medicinal, containing sulphur, lime, 
 magnesia, and iron, in various propor- 
 tions. They are in a retired situation in 
 a little valley among the foot-hills of the 
 Coast Range. The surrounding scenery 
 is very attractive. Stages leave the 
 Springs for San Francisco every day. 
 Secly's line of stages for Milpitas and 
 San Jose also starts from this place. 
 
 Mission San Jos6 is a very 
 old town, in the southern part of Ala- 
 meda County, near the Warm Springs 
 (with which it connects by stage). The 
 old Mission Ghurch, built of adobe, was 
 used i'or services until October, 1868, 
 when it was destroyed by an earthquake. 
 
 ROUTE VIII. 
 
 TO SAN JOSt, THE SANTA CLARA VAE 
 LEY, THE ALMADEN QUICKSILVER- 
 MINES, GILROY, AND LOS ANGELES. 
 
 Via San Francisco <fc San Jose and Southern 
 Pacific of California Railway?, and by 
 8tag< . 
 
 Distances to Gilrot. — From San Fran- 
 cisco to Bernal, 4 miles; San Miguel, 6; 
 San Bruno, 14$; Milbrae, 16}; San 
 Mateo (connects with stages for Crystal 
 
Santa Clara.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [San Jose. 
 
 Springs, Half Moon Bay, Purisima, Sau 
 Gregorio, and Pescadero), 20J; Bel- 
 mont, 25 : Redwood City (connects with 
 stages for Searville and Woodside), 2S|- ; 
 Menlo Park, 32 ; Mayfield, 34£; Mountain 
 View, 384; ; Santa Clara (connects with 
 stage for Congress Springs and Santa 
 Cruz), 46i; San Jose, 50; Gilroy (con- 
 nects with daily stages for San Juan, Wat- 
 sonville, Salinas, Hilltown, Ilot Springs, 
 New Idria Mines, Paso Roble3, Monterey, 
 San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San 
 Buenaventura, and Los Angeles; and, 
 tri-weekly, for San Luis Ranch, Lone 
 Pine, Kingston, Visalia, Havilah, Kern- 
 ville, White River and Sage Land), 80. 
 
 Distances to Los Angeles. — From 
 San Francisco to Gilroy, 80 miles : San 
 Juan (connects with stages for Wat- 
 souville and Santa Cruz, New Idria, 
 Castroville, Salinas City, and Monterey), 
 92 ; Natividad, 104 ; Salinas River, 132 ; 
 Last Chance, 156; Plato Ranch, 187; 
 Paso Robles Hot Springs, 21ft; San 
 Luis Obispo (connects with stage for 
 Sau Simeon), 244; San Marcus, 323; 
 Santa Barbara, 345 ; San Buenaventura, 
 373; Mountain Station, 413 ; Los Ange- 
 les (connects with stages for Sau Diego, 
 Fort Yuma and Tucson, San Bernardino, 
 La Paz, and Clear Creek), 446. 
 
 A day or two may be profitably spent 
 in visiting San Jose and the Santa Clara 
 Valley. Market-Street horse-cars, carry- 
 ing a bine signal, connect with the trains 
 on the San Jose Railway which leave 
 the depot at the corner of Market and 
 Valencia Streets every morning for San 
 Miguel and San Jose. We travel in a 
 southeasterly direction from San Fran- 
 cisco, catching a glimpse or two of the 
 Pacific on one side, and later of the 
 southern arm of San Francisco Bay on 
 the other. A long range of treeless moun- 
 tains, of picturesque outline, bounds a 
 portion of the horizon. For a short 
 trip of 50 miles, this is one of the most 
 charming in California. 
 
 Itedwootl City (28 miles), the 
 capital of San Mateo County, is situated 
 on Redwood Creek, 28 miles south from 
 San Francisco. 
 
 Santa, Clara (46-J- miles) is a 
 beautiful little town, in 1870 having a 
 population of 3,470 inhabitants. It con- 
 tains several fine churches and schools, 
 
 among which is the "University of the 
 Pacific " (Methodist), and the Santa Clara 
 College (Jesuit), in which is included the 
 Old Mission, founded by the Spanish mis- 
 sionaries in early times. This latter insti- 
 tution has a high reputation as an edu- 
 cational establishment. In Santa Clara 
 some very old adobe buildings are stand- 
 ing, and a number of one-story clay huts 
 near are used for the homes of a misera- 
 ble but contented-looking group of fami- 
 lies, descendants of the lower order of 
 Mexicans and the California Indians. In 
 the orchards attached to the mission are 
 pear-trees, gnarled and mossy, but still 
 in life, though planted by the earliest 
 of the Spanish missionaries. 
 
 The village is connected with San 
 Jose, the next station, by a horse-rail- 
 road. The distance is five or six miles, 
 and the road is delightful. It is called 
 the Alameda, and is bordered by fine 
 residences and a superb avenue of trees, 
 planted by the Jesuit fathers in 1777. 
 These trees are mostly deciduous and 
 without leaf. The first artesian wells in 
 the State were sunk in Santa Clara. 
 Congress Springs and Santa Cruz are 
 reached from here by stage. 
 
 Sam J©s6 (50 miles) is a busy 
 town in the heart of the Santa Clara 
 Valley, in 1870 having 9,091 inhabitants. 
 It is rapidly growing, and is a place of 
 frequent resort for San Franciscans, who 
 generally make their excursions here on 
 Saturdays and Sundays. The town is 
 eight miles south of the head of San 
 Francisco Bay. It contains one of the 
 best-appointed hotels on the coast, and 
 its Court House, which cost $200,000, is 
 considered the handsomest structure of 
 the kind in the State. The view from 
 the dome of this latter building is very 
 fine. There are many productive vine- 
 yards and orchards in the town. In con- 
 sequence of its healthful climate, which 
 is a mean between the harsh winds of 
 the coast and the hot valleys of the in- 
 terior, San Jose and its neighborhood 
 are much visited by those having pulmo- 
 nary complaints. To the stranger, the 
 streets present much interest from the 
 strongly-contrasted groups which pass 
 through them. " Here," says a corre- 
 spondent of the Springfield Republican, 
 " we see an American with his fine broad- 
 277 
 
Santa Clara Valley.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Santa Clara Valley. 
 
 cloth and silk hat, his light wagon and 
 well-groomed trotter ; there two or three 
 rancheros with their slouched hats, loose 
 and shabby garments, on rough-coated 
 horses, stained with the mud of a for- 
 mer dav ; here a Mexican on a compactly- 
 limbed mustang, with the high peak and 
 broad stirrups of the Mexican saddle 
 (which is the only one in use here), with 
 his big, broad-brimmed hat, his loose but 
 jaunty jacket, with all the seams of his 
 clothing trimmed with rows of small 
 steel or silver buttons, and heavy spurs. 
 Chinese and negroes abound among the 
 passers-by on foot. There is a street in 
 San Jose occupied entirely by the French. 
 The houses are unpretending, but very 
 cheerful and pretty, with small grounds 
 a good deal decorated, abundance of 
 flowers, and always a cluster of artichoke- 
 plants in the garden. There is another 
 quarter occupied entirely by the Chinese ; 
 one-story brick buildings, crowded and 
 poor, but quaint with Chinese pottery, 
 and brightened by what are called Chi- 
 nese lilies, bulbs grown in dishes filled 
 with pebbles and water. They are the 
 narcissus of the spring borders in New 
 England, and every Chinaman tries to 
 have one blossom for his New year's." 
 
 An old adobe church in the town, built 
 by the early Spanish missionaries, has 
 been enclosed in brick to preserve it 
 There arc some fine oil-paintings to be 
 seen at this place, among them being a 
 superb copy of Murillo's " Repentant Pe- 
 ter," and one of Raphael's " Madonna del 
 Seggiola." An excellent school kept by 
 the Sisters of the Order of Notre-l)ame 
 is located here. It is worth visiting. 
 
 'JTlic Ssmta Clara Valley is 
 nearly 100 miles in length. It is irri- 
 gated by artesian wells, and considered by 
 many to be the most fertile in the world. 
 In the spring of 1871 there were 300 
 aci'es devoted to strawberries, the prod- 
 uct being from 4,000 to 6,000 pounds 
 to the acre. Between 60,000 and 70,000 
 pounds of the fruit were consumed daily 
 in San Francisco. Vineyards covering 
 hundreds of acres, vast wheat-fields, sev- 
 eral of which are one and two miles in 
 length, stately trees, and forests of live- 
 oak, are to be seen on every hand. The 
 visitor will be surprised at the almost in- 
 numerable number of squirrels and go- 
 '278 
 
 phers in this and in all other valleys 
 of California. Indeed, so numerous arc 
 they, that the State has recently enacted 
 a law offering a bounty for their scalps. 
 Some idea of the fertility and beauty of 
 the Santa Clara Valley may be formed 
 by the following correspondence to the 
 Springfield Republican • 
 
 "I wish I could paint this beautiful 
 valley as I saw it; its centre filled with 
 the towns of San Jose and Santa Clara, 
 its horizon bounded by mountains whose 
 hollows were pink and brown in the 
 morning sun, and purple and blue in the 
 sunset light. Some of them wooded, 
 some bare, the foot hilly, with nooks 
 suggesting lovely spots . for country 
 homes. 
 
 " I visited an estate of several hun- 
 dred acres, owned, laid out, and managed 
 by General Naglee. The residence upon 
 it is a simple, picturesque cottage, cov- 
 ered with vines, and at a moderate dis- 
 tance are the stables, and, beyond, the 
 works for making wine and brandy, with 
 the low, brick storehouses near, where 
 the liquors are stored for ripening, and 
 a well-arranged laundry in charge of a 
 Chinaman. The enormous vats and boil- 
 ers of the works and the complete order 
 of the establishment (in charge of a 
 Frenchman who did not speak English) 
 gave indication of the large amount of 
 liquors made. All the laborers on the 
 place were Chinese. The vineyard was 
 of such extent that we rode through it. 
 Between it and the grounds about the 
 house was a hedge of the fragrant Chi- 
 nese honeysuckle, hero an evergreen. 
 The hedge was between four and five 
 feet high and a quarter of a mile long ; 
 and I strongly desired to see it by moon- 
 light when in blossom, for it must then 
 spread its perfume over many acres. 
 The grounds were filled with many varie- 
 ties of evergreen and curious trees of 
 semi-tropical countries. Half a dozen 
 summer-houses of tasteful designs and 
 liberal proportions, covered with grace- 
 ful and novel climbing plants, decorated 
 a landscape garden, to which several 
 ponds and ornamental fountains gave 
 life. We found there bank after bank 
 of fragrant violets, blue with a profusion 
 of flowers. 
 
 " I also visited a largo fruit farm, 
 
Almaden Quicksilver Mines.] CALIFORNIA. [Almaden Quicksilver Mines. 
 
 where I saw fifty acres planted with 
 peach, plum, and pear trees, and acre 
 after acre of strawberry-plants. These 
 yield from late April to Christmas-time, 
 but the market season is during May and 
 June. Artesian wells were spouting in 
 every direction, and all the places I saw 
 in the valley were irrigated by them. I 
 saw on this farm both hard and soft 
 shelled almond-trees in bloom. The 
 grounds are tilled entirely by the Chi- 
 nese. In one of the large nurseries in 
 the neighborhood I saw the California 
 bay-tree, and its leaf is like that of the 
 classic wreath of bays. On the banks 
 of the Coyote, a streamlet, as I thought, 
 I saw superb specimens of the live and 
 black oak trees. The afternoon sun shin- 
 ing through their large branches and pale- 
 green leaves, with the pendant Span- 
 ish moss, made an enchanting picture. 
 These streamlets in the neighborhood, 
 the Guadalupe and Coyote, narrow 
 threads of water flowing over broad, 
 pebbled beds, are sometimes formidable 
 water-courses. The roads were level and 
 dry, bounded often by ditches filled with 
 the overflow of the wells, and lined with 
 water-cresses of great size. I am told 
 that the luxuriance of vegetation keeps 
 the pruning-knife in constant use." 
 
 ftliues are about 14 miles from San 
 Jose, and C5 miles south from San Fran- 
 cisco. A pleasant two-hours' ride in 
 one of the easy coaches which are in 
 waiting will bring us to this interesting 
 locality. The road is good, and the way 
 for the most part lies through a beautiful 
 grove of sycamores and live-oaks, the 
 latter draped with the graceful Spanish 
 moss. We see also fine specimens of 
 the fragrant bay-tree, the dark-green 
 buckeye, and the pretty California laurel. 
 The Vichy House, kept by a Breton, is a 
 cool place to rest before ascending the 
 mountain to the mines. Beside the ho- 
 tel is a delicious, cool mineral spring, 
 whose waters are said to bear a strong 
 resemblance to the celebrated springs at 
 Vichy, in the south of France. 
 
 The carriage-road up the mountain is 
 broad and even. On the left is the rising 
 mountain-side, and on the right is a deep 
 ravine. The trail is not considered dan- 
 gerous, owing to the breadth of the road ; 
 
 but much care has to be exercised by the 
 driver to avoid the steep precipices which 
 we sometimes come upon quite suddenly. 
 Teams of from four to eight mules are 
 passed ascending and descending, with 
 bells hanging from their necks to warn 
 the drivers of other vehicles of their ap- 
 proach. The higher we rise, the more 
 beautiful is the scene below us, and, on 
 reaching the summit, which is 940 feet 
 from the base, the prospect is grand. A 
 tourist, describing his ascent, says: "As 
 we rose higher and higher, and looked 
 down into the gorges on our right, and 
 at the mountains of the spur of the Coast 
 Range (in which the mines are situated), 
 we saw view after view whose wildness 
 of beauty is very difficult to describe. 
 Mountain-peaks rose behind and beside 
 each other, and their feet overlapped each 
 other, dipping themselves down into hol- 
 lows, all green from the peaks to the depth 
 of each canon or ravine. These green 
 hill-sides were seamed by narrow lines, the 
 tracks made by the sheep and goats, which 
 love to feed upon the sweet grass and 
 wild-oats. Before we reached the level 
 of the upper mine we were high enough to 
 command an outlook over the whole broad 
 Santa Clara Valley, and the white build- 
 ings and fine dome of the court-house at 
 San Jose, and to sec the waters of Alviso 
 Bay, 1 7 miles north of us, sparkle in the 
 sunshine, and feel the fresh mountain- 
 breezes brace and exhilarate us. The 
 mountain-road was bordered by flowers 
 of crimson and glowing blue, the Mexi- 
 can sage, the wild gooseberry and cur- 
 rant, the scrub-oak, and gorgeous-look- 
 ing leaf of the poison-oak, a little shrub 
 dangerous to touch, and a profusion of 
 unknown foliage, with a richness of col- 
 oring and luxuriance of growth that were 
 very pleasing. At length we passed a 
 large settlement of cabins and huts of 
 various sizes and degrees of comfort, 
 settled upon the broken surface of the 
 mountain, in a very irregular and pictu- 
 resque manner. These were the homes 
 of the miners and their families, and, with 
 those engaged at the reduction-works at 
 the foot of the mountain, number about 
 1,500 inhabitants. A store is near the 
 entrance to the upper mine, and a large 
 shed under which the workmen were 
 sorting over the heaps of ore brought 
 279 
 
Almaden Quicksilver Mines.] WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Santa Barbara. 
 
 there in cars from the mouth of the tun- 
 nel. The stock of the store has to be 
 brought up by carts and pack-horses." 
 
 The ore from which quicksilver is pro- 
 cured is called cinnabar, and was long 
 ago known to the Indians, who worked 
 it for the vermilion powder with which 
 they painted their persons, and was valued 
 as highly as money by the tribes as far 
 from the coast as Colorado. Some Mexi- 
 can officer bribed the natives to discover 
 for him the whereabouts of the mines, and 
 in 1846 a Mexican company was formed 
 for working it. They named it after the 
 most valuable mines of mercury in the 
 world, the Almaden Mines, in the prov- 
 ince of La Mancha, Spain. The tunnel 
 from the mouth to the engine-room be- 
 side the shaft is one-fourth of a mile in 
 length ; the ore is brought up from the 
 shaft (which runs hundreds of feet 
 straight down into the earth, and from 
 which open many galleries where the min- 
 ers work) in iron-bound buckets, which 
 are drawn up and emptied into a car 
 standing on the track in the tunnel. The 
 men descend to their work and come back 
 again to the tunnel by means of the 
 bucket. The tunnel is very dark, and 
 its walls drip with damp. Among the 
 miners are many Mexicans, who have 
 considerable skill and experience in this 
 kind of work, although there are also 
 English, Welsh, Scotch, and Irish, among 
 them. 
 
 The process of extracting the mercury 
 from the ore is very simple. Chambers 
 are filled with the cinnabar laid in layers 
 with channels of adobe brick between ; 
 intense fires are kept up in the fur- 
 naces, which are arranged so as to en- 
 able the heat to escape into the ore- 
 chambers through perforated brick walls. 
 The heat decomposes the ore, and the 
 mercury escapes -in the form of vapor 
 into the condensing chambers connected 
 by another perforated wall, on the other 
 side. As the vapor cools, it condenses 
 on the walls of the chambers, trickling 
 down their sides into channels, then 
 through pipes and troughs into a cal- 
 dron, from which it is dipped up in iron 
 ladles and put into the solid iron flasks 
 imported from Europe for this purpose. 
 The fluid is of such great weight that 
 the flasks made to contain 75 pounds 
 280 
 
 each really do not look as if they would 
 hold more than two quarts. The enor- 
 mous amount of quicksilver needed for 
 gold and silver mining makes this Al- 
 maden mine, and the others in the same 
 part of the country, the Enriquita, the 
 Providence, and uadalupc, of immenso 
 value to California. 
 
 We will now return to San Jose and 
 continue our road to Los Angeles. Af- 
 ter a ride of nearly two hours through a 
 rich and picturesque country, we arrive at 
 
 <j}iIroy (80 miles), till lately termi- 
 nus of the Southern Pacific Railway. This 
 town is situated near the southern bor- 
 der of Santa Clara County. The Grilroi/ 
 Hot Springs, a few miles to the north- 
 east, arc much frequented. 
 
 Travelling through a fine grazing re- 
 gion, we pass the 
 
 Paso E£o1>les ISot Spriiigrs 
 (210 miles), which are said to possess val- 
 uable medicinal properties, and come to 
 
 San KiMis Otoispo (214 miles), a 
 small, unimportant Spanish town, the cap- 
 ital of the county of the same name. This 
 place connects with San Simeon by stage. 
 
 &ania Barbara (345 miles) is 
 situated on a narrow plain between the 
 sea and the base of a range of coast- 
 mountains 3,000 feet high. The climate 
 is mild aud salubrious, and tropical and 
 temperate fruits flourish with equal luxuri- 
 ance. Santa Barbara, with the other ports 
 along the coast, is famous for the hide 
 business, formerly the staple product of 
 California. It has no protected harbor, 
 like San Pedro and other places along 
 the coast, but is only an open roadstead, 
 dangerous to vessels during a south- 
 easter, which, however, occurs only dur- 
 ing the rainy season. Like Monterey 
 and the other old places in California, it 
 retains much of its quaint Spanish look — 
 the adobe buildings, roofed with tiles, 
 presenting an aged appearance. 
 
 The " Old Mission " is about a mile 
 distant. Three miles cast is a famous 
 grape-vine, supposed to be the largest in 
 the world. The stem is over a foot in 
 diameter. The vine is supported by a 
 trellis 70 feet long and 01 feet wide, 
 which it completely covers. It was plant- 
 ed from a cutting nearly half a century 
 ago. In 1807 it bore six tons of grapes, 
 some of the clusters weighing five pounds 
 
Los Angeles.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [San Bernardino. 
 
 each. The main building of the Mission 
 is 200 feet long, and 40 feet wide, sup- 
 porting two domes in front, and with bel- 
 fries of solid masonry. To the left of this 
 is a wing ISO feet long, with porches 
 supported on pillars and arches. In the 
 vicinity are a reservoir and orchard, and 
 the Mission garden, in which grow nearly 
 all kinds of tropical fruits. The view of 
 the Mission, as one approaches from the 
 village, is remarkably picturesque. Santa 
 Barbara connects by steamer with San 
 Francisco. (See page 121.) 
 
 ILos AngeSes (446 miles), the oldest 
 and largest city in Southern California, is 
 situated in a narrow valley, on the Los An- 
 geles River, about 22 miles from the sea. 
 On the northwestern side of the town, and 
 very near the busiest part of it, is a hill 
 about 60 feet high, whence an excellent 
 view of the whole place may be obtained. 
 Along the banks of the river for miles 
 are situated the vineyards and orange- 
 groves, the pride of Los Angeles. The 
 population in 18*70 was 5,614, a great 
 proportion of which are foreigners. Many 
 of the houses are of the Spanish style — 
 one story — with flat roofs covered with 
 asphaltum, which abounds in the neigh- 
 borhood. The city is growing rapidly in 
 population and wealth. The surrounding 
 country is rich with vineyards, orange- 
 groves, lemons, olives, and other tropical 
 fruits. To the east of Los Angeles Mount 
 San Bernardino rises, covered with snow, 
 80 miles distant. Its altitude is about 
 8,000 feet, and it marks the site of the 
 pleasant valley in which the town of San 
 Bernardino is situated. Silver lodes of 
 more or less promise have been discov- 
 ered in various parts of the neighboring 
 mountains. There is a rich tin-mine at 
 Temescal, about 60 miles distant, on the 
 Overland Route. The San Gabriel placer 
 gold-mines lie about 20 miles to the 
 northeast. Los Angeles connects with 
 San Francisco by steamer and railroad 
 via San Pedro. 
 
 MOUTE IX. 
 
 LOS ANGELES TO SAN DIEGO. 
 By Stage. 
 Distances. — From Los Angeles to San 
 Gabriel River, 10 miles ; Rancha Los 
 
 Coyotes, 17 ; Anaheim, 27 ; San Juan 
 Capistrauo, 60 ; Santa Margarita, 87 ; 
 San Luis Rey, 90; San Diego (connects 
 with stage for Fort Yuma, Pima Villages, 
 and Tucoon), 131. 
 
 The journey from Los Angeles to San 
 Diego is a pleasant one, along the coast. 
 It can be made in two days. Stages to 
 and from San Diego remain overnight at 
 San Juan Capistrano. 
 
 JLos Angeles. (See page 281.) 
 Sao Uleg-© (131 miles from Los 
 Angeles, and about 500 miles southeast 
 of San Francisco) is situated upon a good 
 harbor of the same name, which, next to 
 that of San Francisco, is the best on the 
 coast of California, being well protected, 
 capacious, and having a good depth of 
 water. The town is more than 100 years 
 old, having been founded by the Roman 
 Catholic missionaries in 1769. Its growth 
 during the past three or four years has 
 been rapid, and it has lately been made 
 a port of entry. The population in 1870 
 was 2,300. The climate is mild and 
 pleasant, varying but about 12° from the 
 usual mean of 68° Fahrenheit. 
 
 HOUTE X. 
 
 LOS ANGELES TO SAN BERNARDINO. 
 
 By Stage. 
 
 Distances. — Los Angeles to El Monte, 
 14 miles; Rusbottom's, 30 ; San Bernar- 
 dino (connects with stage for San Diego), 
 65. 
 
 This is an agreeable excursion along 
 the route to Arizona. 
 
 Lios Angeles. (See page 281.) 
 At Rusbottom's the stage stops for meals. 
 
 San Iteruardino (65 miles) is 
 an old Mormon settlement, in 1 870 hav- 
 ing a population of 3,060. It is situated 
 in the beautiful valley of San Bernardino, 
 which is walled in by bold and precipi- 
 tous mountains formed of soft, white gran- 
 ite, which gives them the appearance of 
 white sand. Fruit of all kinds grows here 
 in abundance, particularly the orange and 
 the lemon. Large quantities of cedar 
 and other valuable timber are found in the 
 forests near the town, but little has been 
 done in road-building to make this tim- 
 ber accessible. 
 
 281 
 
Santa Cruz.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Monterey. 
 
 ROUTE XI. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO CONGRESS 
 SPRINGS SANTA CRUZ, MONTEREY, 
 AND PESCADERO. 
 
 Via Siin Franoisoo £ San Jbsi Railway, and 
 hi/ Santa Clara <C- Santa Cruz, and Pesca- 
 dero & Santa Cruz Stage Lines. 
 
 Stations. — San Francisco & San Jose 
 Railway: Bcrnal, 4 miles; San Miguel, 
 6; Sail Bruno, 14^; Milbrae, 16f ; San 
 Mateo (connects with stage for Pesca- 
 dcro), 20J; Redwood, 28£; Mountain 
 View, 384, ; Santa Clara, 46^. 
 
 Stations. — Santa Clara & Santa Cruz 
 Stage Line : Lexington, 12 miles; Forest 
 House, 13; Summit, 15£; Mount Char- 
 ley's, 16; Santa Cruz (connects with 
 stagey for Soquel and Watsonville, and 
 Pescadero), 30. From San Francisco, 
 
 Stations. — Pescadero & Santa Cruz 
 Express : Williams's Landing, 10$ miles ; 
 Scott's Creek, 16 ; Frogtown, 20~; Wad- 
 dell's Wharf, 23 ; White House Ranch, 
 26 ; Pigeon Point, 30 ; Pescadero, 38 
 (connects with daily stage for San Mateo), 
 31. 
 
 This road, as far as Santa Clara, has 
 been fully described in Route VIII. of 
 California. (Sec page 276.) 
 
 Stages run from the depot at Santa 
 Clara twice a day to Congress Springs, at 
 Saratoga, about 11 miles — a favorite 
 place of resort, and one of easy access. 
 Passengers wishing to go through from 
 San Francisco to Sania Cruz on the 
 same day, should take the stage imme- 
 diately on arriving at the depot in Santa 
 Clara. The route is one abounding in 
 beautiful mountain scenery. 
 
 §anta Cruz (76£ mile?) is pleas- 
 antly situated on a cove on the north side 
 of Monterey Bay, opposite the city of 
 Monterey. Manufacturing is extensively 
 carried on at this place, lime and leather 
 being the chief productions. Bathing, 
 hunting, and fishing, are among the at- 
 tractions of Santa Cruz. The scenery in 
 the neighborhood is romantic and beau- 
 tiful in the extreme. The tourist should 
 not leave without visiting some of the 
 must attractive points in the vicinity. 
 Among these are the following: 
 282 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Bath IIouscs 1 
 
 Seal Rock 1 
 
 Moore's Beach 2Jtf 
 
 Natural Bridge 4 
 
 Eagle Glen 7 
 
 Oil Works 
 
 Pebble Beach 10 
 
 Paper Mill 2 
 
 Powder Mill 2)4 
 
 Adams's Lime Kiln 8 
 
 Cave 8 
 
 Soquel (stage) 4 
 
 Paradise 4 
 
 Scott's Valley 7 
 
 Felton 7 
 
 Big Trees 8 
 
 Castro Beach 8 
 
 Watsonville (stage) 20 
 
 Stages leave Santa Cruz for Pescadero 
 (34 J miles) three times a week. The 
 road runs for several miles on the ocean- 
 beach. 
 
 The tourist may return to San Fran- 
 cisco by several different routes. He 
 can take the stage for San Mateo (31 
 miles), via San Gregorio (6 miles), Purf- 
 sima (14 miles), Spanishtown (18 miles), 
 Summit (23 miles), and Crystal Springs 
 (27 miles), arriving in time for the train 
 to San Francisco. Another route is by 
 stage to San Juan, via Watsonville, or 
 steamer (three times per month), to 
 Monterey, and stage via Castroville and 
 Salinas City to San Juan, thence stage to 
 Uilroy Railway, to San Jose, stage to 
 Warm Springs, Alameda County, stage to 
 Hayward's and railway and ferry to San 
 Francisco, via San Leandro and Alameda. 
 There is also direct communication by 
 steamer three or four times a month, for 
 those who wish to go or return by water. 
 
 Monterey is beautifully situated 
 on the southern extremity of the bay 
 of the same name, which lies 78 miles 
 south of San Francisco by water. This 
 town was formerly the seat of govern- 
 ment, and principal port on the coast 
 of California. But, since the rise of San 
 Francisco, its commerce and business 
 have dwindled away, and now it is one 
 of the most quiet places in the State, 
 in 1870 containing only 1,112 inhab- 
 itants. The view of the town from the 
 anchorage is very tine, especially if vis- 
 ited in the month of April or May. 
 The green slopes upon which Monterey 
 is built contrast beautifully with the 
 forest of pines which grow upon the 
 ridges beyond. The Rocky Bluffs afford 
 
Pescadero.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Martstille Buttes. 
 
 fine views. Monterey is reached by stage 
 from San Joso, via San Juan, or by 
 steamer from San Francisco. 
 
 IPescailer© (38 miles by stage from 
 Santa Cruz, and about 50 miles by sea 
 from San Francisco) is a thriving town, 
 beautifully situated in a remarkably pro- 
 ductive valley, on both sides of Pesca- 
 dero Creek, near its confluence with the 
 Butano, about a mile from the sea-shore. 
 The new San Francisco Water Company 
 is to take its supply from the head of 
 the creek. Near the town is the famous 
 pebble-beach, where agates, opals, jas- 
 pers, cornelians, and other silicious 
 stones, of almost every conceivable va- 
 riety of color, are found in great abun- 
 dance, with a natural polish imparted by 
 the action of the waves and the smooth 
 sea-sand. The industrious little town of 
 Pescadero annually makes and exports 
 to San Francisco 1*75,000 pounds of 
 cheese and 50,000 pounds of butter. 
 The great "Sanitary Cheese," weighing 
 4,000 pounds, measuring five feet six 
 inches in diameter, and 22 inches thick, 
 manufactured for the benefit of the " San- 
 itary Fund," 1863, was made in the Pes- 
 cadero Valley. Pescadero is a favorite 
 resort for San Francisco pleasure-seekers. 
 
 ROUTE XII. 
 
 SACRAMENTO TO MAIIYSVILLE, CI7ZCO, 
 OREGON CITY, AND PORTLAND. 
 
 Ti.a Central Pacific and Oregon & California 
 Railways, and by Sacramento & Portland 
 Stages. 
 
 Central Pacific Railway Stations. 
 — Sacramento to Antelope, 14^- miles ; 
 Junction, 18. 
 
 California & Oregon Railway Sta- 
 tions. — Junction to Lincoln, 10 miles; 
 Erving's, 14 ; Yuba, 32 ; Marysville (con- 
 nects with river-boats to Sacramento 
 Valley, Nevada, etc.), 33. Oroville (con- 
 nects with California Northern Railway 
 for Marysville and Sacramento), 28 miles ; 
 Chico, 96. (Stage for Roseburg leaves 
 Oroville and Chico.) 
 
 Sacramento k Portland Stage Sta- 
 tions. — Chico to Tehama, 27 miles ; Sac- 
 ramento to Tehama, 123 ; Red Bluff (con- 
 nects with river-boats for Sacramento), 
 135; Shasta, 170; Trinity Centre, 220 ; 
 
 Callahan's, 245 ; Yreka, 285 ; Jackson- 
 ville (connects with stage for Waldo), 
 347 ; Rock Point, 360 ; Louse Creek, 
 37V ; Coxton's, 389 ; Leven's, 402 ; Ca- 
 uonville, 415 ; Roseburg, 442. 
 
 Oregon & California Railway Sta- 
 tions. — Roseburg : Oakland, 460 miles ; 
 Eugene (connects with Portland by steam- 
 er), 517 ; Salem (connects with river- 
 boats for Portland), 591 ; Oregon City, 
 630 ; Portland (connects with river-boats 
 for the Upper Columbia and Idaho ; with 
 ocean-steamers for Puget Sound and Brit- 
 ish Columbia, and with a weekly line to 
 San Francisco; and with Portland divis- 
 ion of Northern Pacific Railway), 642. 
 
 §acraniento. {See page 118.) 
 
 Marysville (52 miles) is on the 
 north bank of the Yuba River, near its 
 junction with Featlher River. It is the 
 chief town of Yuba County, the head of 
 navigation on Feather River, and a point 
 of divergence for travel and freight to 
 the northern mines. Rapidly-accumulat- 
 ing deposits in the rivers may soon make 
 it necessary for it to rely upon railroad 
 communications for its prosperity, of 
 which it has hitherto had as much from 
 the facility of receiving its supplies of 
 merchandise by the Sacramento and 
 Feather Rivers as from its proximity to 
 many of the richest gold-mines of the 
 State. One of the finest orchards in the 
 State, located in the border of the city, 
 was nearly destroyed by a deposit of 
 sand left by an overflow of the Yuba 
 River. The population of the town in 
 1870 was 4,375. Marysville connects 
 with river-boats for Sacramento, with 
 the California & Oregon Railway for 
 Oroville, and with stages for Downieville, 
 Grass Valley, Nevada, etc. 
 
 Tlie marysville Buttes. — 
 From Marysville a fine view is obtained 
 of the isolated chain of mountains known 
 as the Marysville Buttes. They rise from 
 the plain of the Sacramento valley to the 
 height of 1,200 feet, and extend for some 
 eight miles in length, forming a remarka- 
 ble feature in the valley of the Sacramento. 
 They embrace three principal peaks and 
 many subordinate ones, and from the 
 central, elevated, broken, rocky mass, 
 there run off spurs in all directions, 
 forming valleys between them. It is 
 about 30 miles around the Buttes. The 
 283 
 
Oroville.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mount Siiasta. 
 
 view from the summit, which is easily 
 accessible, is superb. 
 
 OroTillc (80 miles from Sacramen- 
 to), the capital of Butte County, is situ- 
 ated at the base of the foot-hills upon 
 the main Feather River. It is a niiniDg- 
 town of some importance, with a rich 
 agricultural country extending to the 
 north and west. The population is about 
 1,000. At Oroville connection is made 
 with stages for Shasta, and the northern 
 mines, La Parte, Quincy, Indian Valley, 
 and Susanville. 
 
 Chico (96 miles), the temporary ter- 
 minus of the road, connects with stages 
 for Red Bluffs, Northern California, and 
 Portland, Oregon; also with Sacramento 
 by steamer, and by stage with Oroville. 
 It is a flourishing town, having in 1870 
 3,718 inhabitants. It is situated on 
 Chico Creek, near its junction with the 
 Sacramento River, and is the centre of a 
 rich agricultural region, from which it 
 receives a large trade. 
 
 12ed JSluir (135 miles). Travel- 
 ling through a rich agricultural region, 
 over good roads, we cross the Sacramento 
 River at Tehama, and, proceeding up the 
 western bank of that stream 14 miles, we 
 reach Red Bluff, a village of some 1,000 
 inhabitants, the capital of Tehama Coun- 
 ty, and situated at the head of steamboat 
 navigation on the Sacramento River. A 
 large amount of freight was formerly 
 shipped from this point for the Hum- 
 boldt and Owyhee mines. A steamer 
 leaves Sacramento daily for Red Bluff. 
 
 As the traveller pursues his journey 
 from Oroville toward the Oregon line, 
 many fine farms or ranches are passed — 
 Bidwell's at Chico, Neal's, and Lassen's 
 being the oldest and best known, com- 
 manding many fine views of the moun- 
 tains of the Coast Range, some of whose 
 peaks rival those of the Sierra Nevada, 
 especially Mount St. Helen, Mount Linn, 
 and Mount St. John, which are each some 
 7,000 to 9,000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. To the eastward, on our right, the 
 snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada 
 rise gleaming in the sunshine. 
 
 Beyond Red Bluff we obtain a fine 
 view of the Lassen Suites, among the most 
 prominent peaks of the Sierras. Beyond 
 Cottonwood Creek, near Major Reading's 
 ranch, we get a splendid view of Mount 
 284 
 
 Shasta, the highest mountain in Califor- 
 nia, a vast cone of snow rising to the 
 height of 15,000 feet above the' level of 
 the sea, forming a magnificent Ian dm k 
 at the head of the Sacramento Valley. 
 
 MoDint SSiasta,, or 'JTefaiapitH', 
 not only the most striking topographical 
 feature of Northern California, but the 
 largest and grandest peak of the Cascade 
 and Sierra Nevada ranges, stands alone, 
 at the southern end of Shasta Valley, in 
 latitude 41° 30' north, longitude about 
 122° west. In approaching it from the 
 north and south, there is a gradual in- 
 crease in the elevation of the country for 
 about 50 miles. The region near the base 
 itself thus attains an altitude of 3,500 
 feet above the sea, and forms a vast ped- 
 estal for the Giant Butte. 
 
 Until the visit of Colonel Fremont, in 
 1 843, the summit of Shasta had generally 
 been deemed inaccessible — 
 
 " Aspiring- to the eagle's cloudless height, 
 No human toot hath stained its snowy side, 
 Nor human breath has dimmed the icy mirror 
 Which it holds unto the moon, and stars, and 
 
 sovereign 
 Pun. We may not grow familiar with the secrets 
 Of its hoary top, whereon the Genius 
 Of that mountain builds his glorious throne ' " * 
 
 " The view of the mountain from Shasta 
 plains is very grand. With no inter- 
 vening mountains to obstruct the pros- 
 pect, the base is seen resting among 
 dense, evergreen forests ; higher up, it 
 is girdled with hardy plants and shrubs 
 to the region of frosts, and thence the 
 sheeting snow. From the northeast and 
 southwest a double summit, of unequal 
 heights, is presented — both rounded and 
 loaded with perpetual snow; but, from 
 most points, a single cone is shown. Ris- 
 ing abruptly in grandeur and great beauty 
 of outline, its white, cloud-like form, 
 drawn clearly against the sky, is plainly 
 visible from points to the south more 
 than 200 miles distant. There are sea- 
 sons, however, when the monarch, shroud- 
 ing the white robes that glisten in the 
 summer sun, retires to gloomy solitudes, 
 and sits a storm-king upon the clouds, 
 invisible to mortal eye. 
 
 "In the forests around Mount Shasta 
 are found the maple, evergreen-oak, and 
 several varieties of pine, including the 
 
 ♦ Ode to Mount Shasta, by John R. Kidge. 
 
Shasta.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Jacksonville. 
 
 epruce, cedar, and fir. Chief among them 
 all for symmetry and perfection of figure, 
 is the majestic sugar-pine, nearly equal- 
 ling the red-wood in size, and excelled by 
 none as a beautiful forest-tree. 
 
 " The ascent may be accomplished in a 
 favorable season — in August or Septem- 
 ber — without much danger or difficulty, 
 by stout, resolute men. The extreme 
 exhaustion realized in ascending Mounts 
 Blanc or Popocatapetl, is not experi- 
 enced ; nor is the trial so dangerous by 
 reason of huge fissures and icy chasms ; 
 the main difficulty arises from the rare- 
 fied condition of the air, to which the 
 system must adapt itself rather suddenly 
 for comfort. 
 
 " Shasta Valley spread beneath our feet 
 its grassy plains and evergreen groves, 
 dotted with villages, mines, and farms, 
 the whole affording scenes unequalled in 
 beauty, variety, and extent o£ landscape, 
 and which may not be adequately de- 
 scribed." 
 
 Sliasta (170 miles) is situated in 
 the foot-hills of the mountains stretching 
 across the northern end of the State, con- 
 necting the northern Sierras with the 
 Coast Range. It is a mining town of 
 about 800 inhabitants, at what was once 
 the northern extremity of wagon travel. 
 Formerly all goods destined for mines 
 farther north, had to be packed on mules, 
 but there is now a good wagon-road over 
 the Siskiyou Mountains, by the California 
 Stage Company, for the purpose of trans- 
 porting the United States mail between 
 Sacramento and Portland, Oregon. 
 
 From Shasta the rich mining localities 
 in the vicinity of Weaverville, distant 38 
 miles, and Humboldt Bay, on the Pacific 
 coast, some 75 miles distant, can be vis- 
 ited on horse or rauleback. 
 
 Leaving Shasta for Yreka, we pass the 
 Tower House, 12 miles ; French Gulch, 15 
 miles ; Mountain House, 23 miles ; Gibbs's 
 Ferry, 35 miles; Chadbourne, 43 miles; 
 Trinity Centre, 49 miles ; and Thomp- 
 son's, 60 miles ; arriving at New York 
 House, 04 miles, at the base of Scott 
 Mountain, which is now to be climbed. 
 In a distance of six miles farther we rise 
 2,060 feet. Every foot of the distance 
 has been made into an excellent road-way 
 by cutting into the solid rock, bridging 
 chasms, excavating the precipitous side 
 
 of the mountain, walling up with stone, 
 clearing away a dense growth of timber, 
 and overcoming other obstacles. On the 
 right rises the perpendicular embank- 
 ment created in excavating for the road, 
 while on the left the traveller looks down 
 a fearful precipice, its side bristling with 
 sharp and jagged rocks. The summit 
 reached, we are upward of 5,000 feet above 
 the level of the sea. Here, to the right, 
 we again have a glorious view of Mount 
 Shasta, covered with its snowy shroud. 
 A continuous descent of seven miles brings 
 us to the head of Scott Valley, and three 
 miles beyond is Callahan's Ranch. Scott 
 Valley is a level area 40 miles long and 
 from three to nine miles wide, a beautiful 
 tract of country, hemmed in on all sides by 
 bold and precipitous mountains. Passing 
 through Fort Jones, 22 miles north, and 
 crossing a lofty divide at the termination 
 of the valley, we arrive at Yreka, 115 
 miles from Shasta. 
 
 Yreka (285 miles), the capital of 
 Siskiyou County, was formerly the most 
 important mining-town north of Oroville. 
 It has about 1,500 inhabitants, is well 
 laid out, has many fine buildings, and is 
 lighted by gas. It is situated in the 
 valley of the Shasta Creek, is encom- 
 passed by mountains, and is distant from 
 the Oregon State line 28 miles. The 
 mines in the vicinity are very productive, 
 giving the place a steady and rapid 
 growth. A fine view of Mount Shasta, 
 distant some 30 miles, is attained from 
 the ridge east of the town. 
 
 Proceeding north, we pass through 
 Cottonwood, 20 miles, to Cole's, 28 miles, 
 where there is a good way-side inn. 
 Here we ascend the Siskiyou Mountain, 
 four miles, and from its summit get the 
 last glimpse of Mount Shasta. Descend- 
 ing the mountain four miles to its base, 
 and traversing 20 miles of rolling coun- 
 try, we arrive at 
 
 Jacksonville, © g- n . (317 
 miles), the principal town of Southern 
 Oregon, situated in the fertile Rogue River 
 Valley, about nine miles south of that 
 river. It is noted for its fine scenery 
 and the salubrity of its climate. The 
 soil is favorable for grain and fruits. 
 Crops have never failed since the first 
 settlement of the valley in 1852. 
 
 J£o»c1>iirg (442 miles) is where 
 285 
 
Euqene City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Feather River. 
 
 the traveller again strikes the railroad 
 which is completed from this place to 
 Portland, 200 miles distant. The entire 
 road will shortly be in operation. 
 
 Eugene City, Ogn. (517 miles), 
 the capital of Lane County, is on the 
 Willamette River, about 80 miles above 
 Salem. Population about 1,000. Eugene 
 connects with Portland by steamer. 
 
 Albany, ©gn. (567 miles), the 
 chief town of Linn County, is on the 
 Willamette River, about 110 miles above 
 Portland. It is surrounded by a rich 
 farming-country, and connects with Port- 
 land by steamer. 
 
 Salem, Ogn. (591 miles), is the 
 capital of the State. It is situated in 
 the midst of a fine farming-country, on 
 the east bank of Willamette River, 50 
 miles southwest from Portland, and C2 
 miles from Columbia River. The popu- 
 lation is about 5,000. The city is main- 
 ly indebted for its prosperity to the agri- 
 cultural resources of the fertile country 
 in which it lies. It has good water- 
 power, which is much improved by bring- 
 ing water from the Santiam River to the 
 Willamette by means of a canal. Among 
 the manufacturing establishments of Sa- 
 lem are a woollen-mill, using annually 
 400,000 lbs. of wool, and employing 150 
 operatives, and a large flouring-mill. 
 The Willamette University is a flourish- 
 ing institution, on the same side of the 
 river. Apple and various other fruit 
 trees abound in the vicinity. Salem con- 
 nects by steamer with Portland. 
 
 Oregon City, Ogn. (630 miles), 
 is a place of about 2,000 inhabitants, at 
 the Falls of the Willamette. The main 
 portion of the city extends for nearly a 
 mile under a bluff' rising to a height of 
 140 feet on the east side of the river, 
 some 500 feet from its bank. The top 
 of the bluffs affords a fine view of the 
 falls, the city, and the surrounding coun- 
 try. The falls are semicircular, having a 
 descent of 38 feet. They constitute one 
 of the finest water-powers in the world. 
 A breakwater has been constructed here 
 by the People's Transportation Company. 
 It extends some distance, forming a basin 
 large enough to receive and discharge 
 freight from the upper Willamette into 
 the boats below the falls. The basin is 
 also used for water-powers. There are 
 286 
 
 two flourishing flour-mills in the city — 
 the Imperial, with six run of stone, hav- 
 ing a grinding capacity of 200,000 bush- 
 els of wheat, and the Oregon City Mills, 
 with four run of stone, of 150,000 bush- 
 els. The city has the largest woollen- 
 manufactory in the State, giving employ- 
 ment to about 100 persons, and capable 
 of manufacturing 1,000,000 lbs. of wool 
 per annum. 
 
 Portland, Ogn. (642 miles), will 
 be described in Route XIV. 
 
 ROUTE XIII. 
 
 8ACBAMENT0 TO MABYSVILLE. 
 
 By Steamer up the Sacramento and Feather 
 Bivers. 
 
 Landings. — Sacramento to Russian 
 Crossing, 10 miles : Fremont, 25 ; Nico- 
 laus, 40 ; Hock Farm, 55 ; Plumas, 57 ; 
 Eliza, 62 ; Marysville (connects with cars 
 for Oroville), 65. 
 
 Sacramento is described in Through 
 Rodte XVIII. (see page 118), and the 
 Sacramento River, as far north as that 
 city, is described in Route I. of Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 On each side of the river, as we ascend 
 it, the overflowing water is seen covering 
 the adjacent country in some places for 
 many miles, giving the appearance of 
 a succession of lakes. The tributaries 
 of the Sacramento are all similarly swol- 
 len, and the destruction of property on 
 their banks must be immense. Orchards, 
 vineyards, gardens, and thousands of 
 acres of rich bottom-lands, are under wa- 
 ter. Leaving Sacramento a few miles 
 behind us, we find the " tules " (.see page 
 268) disappearing, and, before we reach 
 Knight's Landing, they have given way 
 to wheat-fields and gardens which line 
 the river-banks. 
 
 About 25 or 30 miles above Sacra- 
 mento, the Sacramento River receives 
 one of its largest affluents, 
 
 Feather Stiver, which we ascend 
 at Vernon, and find also to be rolling 
 down a swift tide of turbid water, thick 
 with sediment from the gold belt of the 
 mountain-region, the great source of 
 sand-bars and general lifting of the river- 
 bed and obstruction of the channel, thus 
 impeding steamboat navigation, as well 
 
NlCOLAUS.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Arcata. 
 
 as injuring seriously the agricultural in- 
 terests of the State by increasing the lia- 
 bility to overflow. 
 
 Large timber is only occasionally seen 
 along the river-banks, and this diners 
 from that of the Atlantic States, in the 
 gnarled aud scraggy appearance of the 
 trees. The usual inhabitants of these 
 forests are the Digger Indians, whose 
 lodges — if such they can be called, which 
 are merely hollow mounds of earth into 
 which they burrow through a hole — 
 stand in clusters, giving shelter to the 
 most wretched-looking of the native races, 
 whose food is the acorn and such escu- 
 lent roots as they can dig from the earth, 
 seasoned occasionally with a worm or a 
 grasshopper; and whose clothing, if clad 
 at all, the tattered cast-off garments of 
 the miner, picked up on the way-side. 
 
 Nicolaus (40 miles) is a dull, un- 
 important town, of about 500 population, 
 situated at the junction of Bear and 
 Feather Hirers. The lands surrounding 
 it used to be among the best for farming 
 purposes in this part of the State, but 
 the frequent overflows of Bear River 
 have almost ruined them. 
 
 Proceeding up the Feather River, we 
 pass Hock Town, a beautiful place owned 
 by the venerable pioneer of California, 
 General Sutter. The old farm-house and 
 iron fort stand on the bank, which is 
 lined here with enormous fig-trees. Be- 
 hind these we catch a glimpse of the or- 
 chards and vineyards planted by the 
 general nearly half a century ago. 
 
 We reach the junction of the Yuba 
 and Feather Rivers, to the right (entering 
 Yuba), and soon arrive at 
 
 RIarysviile (65 miles). (See page 
 283.) 
 
 ROUTE XIV. 
 
 BAN FRANCISCO UP THE COAST. 
 
 To Portland, Oregon., Puget Sound, Washing- 
 ton Territory, and British Columbia. 
 
 Stkamers leave San Francisco every 
 few days for Oregon, Washington Terri- 
 tory, and Victoria, in the British posses- 
 sions, touching at Mendocino, Humboldt 
 Bay, Trinidad, Crescent City, Port Ox- 
 ford, Portland, and sometimes Vancouver, 
 on the Columbia River, and various points 
 on Puget Sound, and Victoria on Van- 
 
 couver's Island. The steamers of the 
 North Pacific Transportation Company 
 leave San Francisco every ten days for 
 Portland, connecting at Astoria, with 
 steamer, for Monticello ; and at Portland, 
 with steamer for Victoria, B. C, with 
 the Oregon Steam Navigation Company's 
 steamers for Dalles and Wallula, and 
 with the People's Transportation Com- 
 pany's steamers for all points on the 
 Willamette River. Portland is reached 
 in about three days by steamer. By 
 rail and stage-coach, as described in 
 Route XII. of California, the journey 
 occupies a week. Tourists should go 
 one way and return by the other, at 
 least till the Northern Pacific Railway is 
 completed. Many of the northern mines 
 near the coast are easily accessible from 
 Humboldt Bay, Trinidad, Crescent City, 
 and Port Oxford in Oregon, the gold- 
 range approaching the coast. Coal is 
 also found in immense beds in the vicin- 
 ity of Coosa Bay, Oregon. 
 
 Embarking on one of the California 
 Steam Navigation or North Pacific Trans- 
 portation Company's lines for a trip up the 
 coast, we touch at Mendocino, or pass it, 
 128 miles northwest of San Francisco ; 
 Humboldt Bay, upon which the thriving 
 towns of Eureka and Arcata are situated, 
 230 miles ; arriving at Crescent City, 
 some 300 miles from San Francisco. 
 
 Mendocino City, Cal. (128 
 miles), the capital of the county of the 
 same name, is on the north shore of Men- 
 docino Bay, at the mouth of the Big 
 River. It is the shipping-point for large 
 quantities of lumber from the extensive 
 redwood-forests of the county. 
 
 Eureka, Cal. (223 miles), the 
 capital of Humboldt County, is the prin- 
 cipal centre of the large lumber-trade 
 on Humboldt Bay, being surrounded by 
 dense redwood-forests, and is also the 
 principal depot of the farmlands of Eel 
 River Valley. It is a flourishing place 
 of about 3,000 inhabitants. It connects 
 with Petaluma by stage, via Cloverdale. 
 
 Arcata, Cal. (236 miles), is on a 
 level plateau at the head of Humboldt Bay. 
 It does a large trade with the mining- 
 region of the interior, and is the centre 
 of a section noted for the production of 
 potatoes. Stages run from Arcata to 
 Cloverdale Sonoma County. 
 
 2S7 
 
Cuescent City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Puget Sound. 
 
 Crescent City, Cal. (280 miles), 
 the capital of Del Norte County, situated 
 on a .sate little harbor, is the natural 
 shipping-point for a large part of the 
 interior. A pood wagon-road connects 
 it with Jacksonville and the mines of 
 Southwestern Oregon. 
 
 Proceeding north we touch Port Ox- 
 ford (70 miles), from which much lum- 
 ber is exported; Fort Umpqua (140 
 miles), near the mouth of Umpqua River, 
 which draxis a fertile and productive 
 valley, and arrive at Astoria. 
 
 Astoria, Ogn. (300 miles north 
 of Crescent City, and 566 miles north 
 of San Francisco), is a flourishing place 
 on a harbor formed by the widening 
 of Columbia River, nine miles from its 
 mouth. It is one of the oldest ports 
 on the northern coast, and its excellent 
 location would seem favorable to making 
 it one of the principal ports in the State. 
 Astoria connects by steamer for Monti- 
 cello. 
 
 Columbia ISiver. — The scenery 
 of the Columbia River is wild and grand 
 beyond description. Vessels of the lar- 
 gest size proceed up the river from As- 
 toria, at the mouth, to Vancouver, a dis- 
 tance of about 100 miles, and beyond to 
 the falls of the river, where the Cascade 
 Range of mountains crosses. Some of 
 the mountain-peaks of the Cascade 
 Range, among which may be mentioned 
 Mount Hood, Mount. Jefferson, and Mount 
 St. Helen's, rival those of the Andes. 
 They arc covered with perpetual snow, 
 and can be seen from various parts of 
 the river. 
 
 Portland, Ogn. (6*70 miles from 
 San Francisco), the chief city of Ore- 
 gon, and the Columbia basin, the north- 
 ern terminus of the California & Ore- 
 gou Railway, is situated on the Wil- 
 lamette River, near its confluence with 
 the Columbia. It contains about 12,000 
 inhabitants. The Willamette River, flow- 
 ing north between the Coast and Cascade 
 Ranges of mountains, empties into the 
 Columbia about 100 miles from the ocean. 
 The valley of the Willamette is the gar- 
 den of Oregon, and contains a large pop- 
 ulation ol permanent settlers, many of 
 whom had located on farms some time 
 before the settlement, of California by 
 Americans commenced. A month's travel 
 2SS 
 
 to the various places and points of inter- 
 est on the Columbia would amply repay 
 the tourist. (For continuation of the 
 route, see chapters on Oregon and Wash- 
 ington.) Portland connects with steam- 
 ers for Victoria, Dalles, and Wallula. 
 
 l*Mg'et Sonratl. — Proceeding up 
 the coast we find no other seaport till 
 we reach Puget Sound, one of the most 
 magnificent harbors in the world. While 
 the sound is so deep that vessels of the 
 heaviest burden can traverse any part 
 of it with safety, it is nowhere too deep 
 for convenient anchorage ; and in many 
 places vessels can ride boldly up to the 
 shore for purposes of loading, without the 
 intervention of wharves. The lumber 
 from some of the saw -mills on the sound 
 is shipped in this way. Puget Sound is 
 reached by a daily line of steamers from 
 Portland, Oregon, to Monticello, Wash- 
 ington, situated on the Cowlitz River, 
 two miles above its mouth, thence by 
 stage to Olympia twice a week. Entire 
 distance from Portland to Olympia, 92 
 miles. The journey takes two days. 
 From Olympia, the route is continued 
 tri-weekly to Victoria, Vancouver's Isl- 
 and, by steamer, which touches at the 
 principal landings on the sound. Agri- 
 culture and the manufacture of lumber 
 form the leading interests of this region. 
 Several thrifty towns have sprung up on 
 different inlets of the sound, among them 
 Port Townsend, Olympia, being the cap- 
 ital of Washington Territory, situated in 
 the vicinity of the superb water-power 
 of Tum-water, Steilaeoom, and Seattle, 
 which are the termini of trails and mili- 
 tary roads leading through the Cascade 
 Range to the mineral regions beyond. 
 (See chapter on Washington Territory.) 
 Whitby 1 * Island, at the entrance of the 
 sound, contains many fine farms, and its 
 verdant bluffs, rising boldly from the 
 water's edge, are very beautiful in spring 
 and summer. Several majestic mountain- 
 peaks are visible from the waters of the 
 sound, forming some of the most sublime 
 scenes on the western coast of America. 
 Among these are Mount Baker, Mount 
 SI. Helen's, and Mount Rainier, whose 
 summits are from 12,000 to 15,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and covered 
 with perpetual snow. Some of these 
 have shown volcanic action within the 
 
Vancouver.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [San Joaquin River. 
 
 last few years. Mount Baker, 14,000 
 feet high, was in active eruption in 1860. 
 From Port Townscnd the traveller can 
 reach the mouth of the Columbia, or indeed 
 Sacramento in California, without return- 
 ing by the ocean route. Proceeding by 
 steamer to the head of the sound at 
 Olympia, or by stage on the west side of 
 the sound to the same point, he can jour- 
 ney thence through the Cowlitz farms 
 to Vancouver on the Columbia River. 
 
 Vancouver, formerly the capital 
 of Washington Territory, is a flourishing 
 town, on the north side of the Columbia 
 River. The distance from Vancouver to 
 Portland is IS miles by water, and the 
 entire distance from Port Townscnd to 
 Portland is about 230 miles. From 
 Portland the daily overland mail to Sac- 
 ramento takes the traveller up the val- 
 ley of the Willamette, across Umpqua 
 and Rogue Rivers to Jacksonville, and 
 thence through Yreka, Shasta, and Marys- 
 ville to Sacramento, 642 miles from Port- 
 land, making the longest stage-route in 
 the Union, with the exception of that 
 now almost out of use across the conti- 
 nent between California and the Missouri 
 River. 
 
 The eastern slope of the Cascade 
 Range in Washington Territory, though 
 but partially developed, gives indications 
 of great mineral wealth. The Wenat- 
 chee, Samilkameen, and Rock Creek 
 gold regions, have attracted many ad- 
 venturers, and yielded their treasures 
 bountifully. From Steilacoom a military 
 wagon-road leads through a pass in the 
 Cascade Range to Walla- Walla (see chap- 
 ter on Washington Territory), 250 
 miles southeast on the Columbia River. 
 Beyond Walla-Walla lies the Nez Perces 
 gold-region. 
 
 Victoria, on Vancouver Island, 
 the principal town of British Columbia, 
 is a free port at the southern extremity 
 of Vancouver Island, opposite the mouth 
 of Admiralty Inlet or Puget Sound. 
 jEsquimati, three miles distant, is a naval 
 station, much frequented by British men- 
 of-war on the Pacific coast. The coal- 
 mines of Ranaimo on the north, the gold- 
 fields of Cariboo, in British Columbia, 
 and the largo lumber-region of Puget 
 Sound on the south, are all tributary to 
 Victoria. The vicinity of the port offers 
 13 
 
 the greatest inducements to tourists and 
 pleasure-parties. The climate is warm 
 and pleasant, the mean average in sum- 
 mer being from 60° to 65° ; there are 
 charming scenery, excellent roads, and 
 good shooting, fishing, boating, and hunt- 
 ing. The population of Victoria is about 
 5,000. 
 
 New "WestEmiMStei*, the capital 
 of British Columbia, and next to Vic- 
 toria the largest town in the British 
 dominions on the Pacific, is situated on 
 Fraser River, near the head of navigation. 
 
 ROUTE xr 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO TO THE BIO TREKS 
 OF CALAVERAS, AND TO THE NATU- 
 RAL CA YES AND BRIDGES. 
 
 By Railway or Si 'earner to Stockton ; the/ma 
 to Biff Trees via Stockton Jb Copperopolis 
 Railway, and by Stages. 
 
 Stations. — Stockton & Copperopolis 
 Railway, etc. : Stockton (90 miles from 
 San Francisco) to Milton, 28 miles ; 
 Murphy's, 53 ; Big Trees, 68 (158 miles 
 from San Francisco) ; Natural Caves, 172 
 miles from San Francisco. 
 
 The trip from San Francisco to Stock- 
 ton may be made by taking the cars of 
 the Western Pacific Railway at Oakland, 
 or by the steamers which leave Broad- 
 way Street wharf daily, except Sunday, 
 up San Francisco Bay and San Joaquin 
 River, touching at Benicia (30 miles), 
 New York Landing (45 miles), and An- 
 tioch, at the mouth of the Joaquin (50 
 miles). 
 
 The route from San Francisco to Stock- 
 ton by the Western Pacific Railway 
 has been described in Through Route 
 XVIII. (See pages 119-121.) 
 
 The steamboat route up the Bays of 
 San Francisco and San Pablo has been 
 described in Route I. of California. 
 (See pages 267, 268.) 
 
 Sam Joaqnia ISIvcp is a shal- 
 low, winding stream, its banks covered 
 on either side with tules. It is divided 
 into three branches, called, respectively, 
 the west, middle, and east channels. The 
 middle channel is the one used by the 
 Stockton steamboats, except within four 
 miles of that city, from which point the 
 Stockton slough is used. The east or 
 main channel is navigable for small, 
 289 
 
Milton.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Yosemite Region. 
 
 stern-wheel steamers as far up as Frezno 
 City. Among the many tributaries of 
 the San Joaquin are the Mokelumne, 
 Calaveras, Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and 
 Merced Rivers. 
 
 Antioeh (50 miles from San Fran- 
 cisco) is the depot of the Monte Diablo 
 coal-mines. 
 
 Milton (118 miles) is on the Stock- 
 ton & Coppcrapolis Railway. This new 
 road carries the tourist over the hottest, 
 dustiest, and most uninteresting portion 
 of the distance from Stockton to the Big 
 Trees and the Yosemite. Copperopolis 
 is on one of the shortest routes to both 
 places, so that every mile of rail saves 
 one of stage-riding. The distance by 
 stage from Milton is 47 miles. The dis- 
 tance to Hutchings's Hotel from Stock- 
 ton, by the Tuolumne, Big Oak Flat, is 
 109 miles, including 28 by rail, 65 by 
 stage and 16 by horseback. 
 
 Sisson & Co.'s stages leave Milton 
 daily from Murphy's (25 miles), Nassau 
 Valley, Altaville, Angel's Camp (formerly 
 surrounded by rich placer-mines), and 
 Valicita. The route is a pleasant one, 
 lying through country abounding in pic- 
 turesque scenery. The stages are com- 
 fortable, and the journey i3 made as 
 rapidly as possible. It is usual to stay 
 over at Murphy's, where good accommo- 
 dations may be had at from §2 to $3, 
 and start by stage in the morning for the 
 Big Trees, distant 15 miles. This part 
 of the route is very beautiful for several 
 miles, the tourist following a clear stream 
 of water through shady groves of pines 
 and oaks. There is a good hotel at the 
 grove ; expenses $3 per day. 
 
 '1'Iie Big TFrecs (158 miles) are 
 considered by some travellers one of the 
 greatest wonders of the world. They 
 are situated in Calaveras County, near 
 the Stanislaus Jlivcr. The grove was 
 discovered before the Mariposa grove, 
 and consequently obtained more notorie- 
 ty. There are between 30 and 40 " big 
 trees" here, and a much larger number 
 of smaller ones of the same species. 
 The largest, " Mother of the Forest," is 
 61 feet in circumference at the height of 
 6 feet from the ground. The highest is 
 the "Keystone Slate," 325 feet in height; 
 one of the trees of this grove which was 
 felled occupied live men for 21 days, 
 290 
 
 pump-augers being used for boring 
 through the tree. After the trunk was 
 severed from the stump it took the live 
 men three days, with ponderous wedges, 
 to topple it over. The bark was 18 
 inches in thickness. 
 
 The whole number of trees is 92 ; 
 height from 150 to 325 feet ; diameter 
 10 to 30£ feet; elevation above the sea 
 4,759 feet; age, from 1,200 to 2,500 
 years. At the South Grove (six miles 
 from the Calaveras), there are 1,380 
 trees, they are of larger size than in any 
 other grove. The trip is made on horse- 
 back, and takes about two hours. 
 Stages 'return to Murphy's every even- 
 ing, from which place one may proceed 
 to Yosemite, via Big Oak Flat, or Coul- 
 terville, or may return to San Francisco ; 
 but, after seeing the Big Trees of Cala- 
 veras, the tourist should, if possible, visit 
 
 The Natural Caves and 
 Bridges in the same county. The 
 caves are situated on what is called Me- 
 Einney's Humbug, a tributary of the Cala- 
 veras River, near the mouth of O'Neill's 
 Creek, 14 miles west of the Big Trees, 
 16 miles south of Mokelumne Hill, and 
 9 miles east of San Andreas. The 
 bridges are on Cayote Creek, midway be- 
 tween Valicita and McLane s Ferry, on 
 the Stanislaus River. The entire water 
 of Cayote Creek runs beneath these 
 bridges. The bold, rocky, and precipi- 
 tous banks of the stream, both above and 
 below the bridges, present a counterpart 
 of wild scenery in perfect keeping with 
 the strange beauty and picturesque gran- 
 deur of their interior formation. 
 
 THE YOSEMITE HEGIOX. 
 
 ROUTES TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 
 AND TIIEBIG TREES OF MARIPOSA. 
 
 No one who visits California should 
 fail to see the Yosemite Valley and the 
 Big Trees, which may truly be classed 
 among the great wonders of the world. 
 There are four principal routes to this 
 remarkable region, the two main ones 
 being represented by the rival railway 
 companies of the Slate, viz., the Central 
 Pacific and the California Pacific.* 
 
 * Since the above was in type, the Central Pa- 
 cific Railroad Company has purchased the <'aii- 
 fornia Pacific Railroad line between \ r allcjo and 
 Sacramento. 
 
Central Pacific Railway.] CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Central Pacific Railway. 
 
 
 S3 & 
 
 SIERRA N 
 
 291 
 
Oentsal Pacific Railway.] WESTERN TOUR. [Central Pacific Railway. 
 
 By the first of those latter one reaches 
 Modesta, on the Visalia Division of the 
 road, and proceeds thence to Yosemite 
 by stage or private conveyance, and on 
 horseback, via Snelling, Hornitos, Bear 
 Valley, Princeton, Mariposa, White and 
 Hatch's, and Clark's, taking in the Mari- 
 posa Big Trees. 
 
 By the California Pacific route the 
 tourist reaches Stockton from San Fran- 
 cisco by steamer up the bays of San 
 Francisco and San Pablo, and the San 
 Joaquin River, and takes the cars of the 
 Stockton &' Coppcropolis Railway for Mil- 
 ton. Before proceeding to Yosemite, he 
 can visit the Big Trees of Calaveras from 
 
 Milton, and continue his way to the val- 
 ley and the Big Trees of Mariposa by 
 way of Sonora and Chinese Camp. 
 
 From Sacramento, the best route is by 
 the Western Division of the Central Pacific 
 Railway to Gait, thence by stage via Jack- 
 son and Mokelumne Hill, to the Big Trees 
 of Calaveras, and to the valley and the 
 Big Trees of Mariposa by way of Sonora 
 and Chinese Camp. 
 
 What is known as the Coulterville route 
 is by way of Stockton, Knight's Ferry, 
 Coulterville, Bower Cave, Tamarack Flat, 
 to the Yosemite, and thence south to 
 Clark's and the Big Trees of Mari- 
 posa. 
 
 By Rail. 
 By Stage. 
 
 On 
 Horseback. 
 
 THE CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILWAY OR MARIPOSA ROUTE. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 ( San Francisco to Lathrop 81 
 
 ) Lathrop to Modesta 20 —101 
 
 j Modesta to Mariposa C9 
 
 | Mariposa to White and Hatch's 12 — 81 
 
 White and Hatch's to Clark's 12 
 
 Clark's to Alder Creek C J 
 
 Alder Creek to Empire Camp 3 
 
 Empire Camp to Westfall's Meadow 4 
 
 Wist lairs Meadow to Inspiration Point 5 
 
 Inspiration Point to Lower Hotel 7 J — 89 
 
 Total distance . 
 
 220 
 
 By Bail. 
 By Stage. 
 
 On 
 
 Horseback. 
 
 ( Sacramento to Lathrop 57 
 
 ~\ Lathrop to Modesto 20 — 77 
 
 ( Modesto to Mariposa 69 
 
 | Mariposa to White and Hatch's 12 — 81 
 
 f White and Hatch's to Clark's 12 
 
 J Clark's to WcsUall's Meadow 13£ 
 
 1 Westfall's Meadow to Inspiration Point 5 
 
 { Inspiration Point to Lower Hotel 7 J — 39 
 
 Total distance. 
 
 This is a favorite route to the Yo- 
 semite and the Mariposa Big Trees, and 
 quite a cheap one, the whole cost from 
 San Francisco being $25, or $46 both 
 ways, covering passage by rail, stage, and 
 horseback, the expense of guides, packing 
 baggage, and, in fact, every thing but 
 board and lodging. The trip to the val- 
 ley may be made in 48 hours by this 
 route, of which period little more than 
 30 hours are spent in actual travel. In 
 six days, therefore, the tourist can visit 
 Fosetnite and spend two days in seeing 
 enery, although ten days at least 
 Bhould be given to the trip. 
 
 The proper way for travellers is, un- 
 doubtedly, to make the "round trip," 
 going into the valley on one side and rc- 
 21)2 
 
 turning on the other, as the trail on the 
 Mariposa side takes one near the Big Trees, 
 and, besides, furnishes by far the best view 
 of the valley ; while, on the Coulterville 
 trail, we have the Bower Cave and many 
 fine views of the distant Sierra. It is for 
 the traveller to decide whether he prefer 
 obtaining these general views of the val- 
 ley after he has already been there, or on 
 his way into it. To have the whole pran- 
 deur of the Yosemite revealed to him at 
 once, he should accompany us on our 
 present trip, entering the valley on the 
 Mariposa side; if, on the other hand, ho 
 prefer to see the various points of 
 beauty in succession, and, as he leaves 
 the valley, to take in the grand general 
 views, he should enter by the Coulter- 
 
Snelling.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Makiposa Big Trees. 
 
 villc route (of which wc shall Speak pres- 
 ently), and depart by the Mariposa side. 
 
 Leaving San Francisco we take the 
 cars of the Central Pacific Railway to 
 Lathrop (81 miles), where we connect 
 with those of the Stockton &• Visalia Mail- 
 ioai/ for Modesta (in the San Joaquin Val- 
 ley), 20 miles distant. The latter place 
 is reached in three or four hours from 
 either San Francisco or Sacramento. 
 Early in the morning Fisher & Co.'s 
 stages leave Modesta for Mariposa, 69 
 miles distant, passing through the various 
 villages of the old Fremont estate, Snell- 
 ing, Hornitos, Bear Valley, and Princeton. 
 
 fSsaclSiiig (134 miles from San Fran- 
 cisco) is on the Merced River (River of 
 Mercy), which is crossed on a rope-ferry. 
 "We stop at this place for breakfast. 
 
 ISorsiittos (146 miles), a curious old 
 mining-town, connects with stages for 
 Visalia. Wc see about here on every 
 side the remains of old adobe huts, and 
 in every ravine, long-deserted placer- 
 mines. A few hours' ride brings us to 
 
 The Great Mariposa Tract 
 granted to Fremont in 1848. The grant 
 is 44,386 acres, 70 square miles of the 
 finest mineral lands in the State, gold, 
 silver, copper, iron, and coal, being here 
 in abundance. A fine quartz-mill, of 
 twenty-five stamps, is in operation at the 
 upper end of the valley. The quartz- 
 rock is brought from the mountains in 
 cars, is placed beneath the crushers or 
 stamps, and is soon reduced to dust. 
 The water in wooden sluices washes this 
 dust away into long wooden boxes, 
 through which it must pass to escape. 
 On the bottom of the sluices and boxes 
 are little nests of quicksilver, which seizes 
 every particle of gold, like a loadstone, 
 which passes near it, while the mud and 
 crushed quartz are washed away by the 
 water. The quicksilver is then heavy 
 with the particles of gold, and, taken 
 from the sluices or boxes, the amalgam 
 is put in the crucible and the fine metal 
 formed into bars. 
 
 Mariposa (170 miles), the capital 
 of the county of the same name, is the 
 most southerly of all the mining-towns 
 of importance in the State. It is the 
 principal centre of the great mining-op- 
 erations of the Mariposa estate. Popu- 
 lation about 1,200. 
 
 Toiling up hill after hill, running 
 around the side of vast mountains with 
 a road-bed only a few inches wider than 
 the axles of the wagon, one mishap or 
 the slightest break would roll us down 
 thousands of feet into the chasm below. 
 We climb hill after hill, until, after about 
 five hours' riding, we turn the summit of 
 the mountains, and commence the de- 
 scent; the driver uncoils his whip and 
 lets it fly like an admiral's pennant — 
 away the horses go on a full, swinging 
 trot down the sides of the mountains, 
 the hub of one wheel just shaving the 
 rocks of one side, while the tire of the 
 other wheel is only an inch or two from 
 the almost perpendicular sides of the 
 mountain. Early in the evening we ar- 
 rive at 
 
 "Willie asa«l Hatch's" (182 
 miles), a beautiful spot among the foot- 
 hills, where we shall find excellent ac- 
 commodations for the night. The next 
 day a four-hours' ride will bring us to 
 
 <C3ar3i's Ranch (194 miles), on 
 the South Fork of the Merced River, and 
 the rest of the day will be best spent in 
 a visit to the Mariposa Big Trees, about 
 five miles from Clark's ; while the third 
 day will find us on horseback to the val- 
 ley itself. 
 
 Mariposa Big; Trees. — This 
 grove is generally regarded as more at- 
 tractive than the Calaveras Grove, the 
 trees here being greater in diameter and 
 much more numerous. There are 427 
 big trees in the Mariposa Grove, vary- 
 ing in size from 20 to 34 feet in diameter, 
 and from 275 to 325 feet in height. 
 They are of redwood, tall, and perfectly 
 straight, and belong to the Sequoia c/i- 
 ffanlea species, first discovered in 1852. 
 The leaf is very much like the Arbor 
 vitm. The bark is soft and very spongy, 
 and of a light-brown color; on all the 
 largest trees it measures from twenty to 
 thirty-two inches in thickness. 
 
 " These trees are," says Mr. Galen 
 Clark, the guardian of the grove, " over 
 two thousand three hundred years of 
 age." The largest in the grove is " The 
 Grizzly Giant ; " it is 107 feet in circumfer- 
 ence, and in the thickest place 34 feet 
 in diameter. The first branch is nearly 
 200 feet from the ground, and is eight 
 feet in diameter. 
 
 293 
 
Mariposa Biq Trees.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Inspiration Foint. 
 
 "The Faithful Couple" is probably 
 28 feet in diameter; it reaches '70 feet 
 out of the ground and forms into two 
 trees on one stem ; the faithful couple 
 of trees having in reality but one life, 
 and being but one. The remains of a 
 prostrate tree, now nearly consumed by 
 lire, indicate that it must have reached 
 a diameter of about 40, and a height of 
 •lot) feet. The trunk is hollow, and will 
 admit of the passage of three horsemen 
 riding abreast. The only tree which ap- 
 proaches the Sequoia in size and gran- 
 deur is the Eucalyptus of Australia, which 
 is 80 to 90 feet in circumference. 
 
 Returning to Clark's Ranch for dinner, 
 we start immediately afterward on horse- 
 or mule-back, for the Yosemite Valley, 
 and, before dark, reach the Mountain- 
 view House — a log cabin. Resting here 
 for the night, at daybreak we set out for 
 Sentinel Dome, one of the highest walls 
 of the Yosemite. For three or four hours 
 we toil up the mountain-side amid rocks, 
 running-streams, brooks, trees of a cen- 
 tury's growth — pine, cedar, and oak. 
 Suddenly through an opening in the trees 
 we behold the bald head of the Sentinel. 
 Tying our horses to a tree, we climb to 
 the very tip-top of the dome and stand 
 upon its bare and barren summit, about 
 4,000 feet above the valley at our feet. 
 The view is beyond description, while 
 thoughts fill the heart and crowd the 
 soul with unutterable emotion at the 
 grandeur of the scene ; it cannot be 
 traced in words. Away to our right and 
 rust, clad in the finest of snow, are the 
 peaks of the I/yeU Group, shining like 
 silver mountains in the morning sun. 
 Nearer to us, and still at our right, peer- 
 ing up into the bright blue of heaven, is 
 the bare, barren, desolate, untrodden 
 peak of the South Dome, about 6,000 
 feet in height. To our left rise in state- 
 ly majesty the tunnel peaks of the Ca- 
 thedral Hock, and nearer, the Cathedral 
 spires, while opposite stands old El Capi- 
 tan, great chieftain of the valley, 3,100 
 feet high. Directly opposite, shaking the 
 earth with its tumble, and making the 
 air vibrate with its roar, in all its un- 
 paralleled beauty, and taking its un- 
 ecfualled Leaps of 2,634 feet into the aw- 
 ful chasm, is one of the greatest of Na- 
 ture's water-works, the Yosemite Falls. 
 2>Jl 
 
 To the northeast are the North Dome, Tlic 
 Archers, Mount llroderick, and Washing- 
 ton. Oolumtij bare, rugged, and almost 
 perpendicular, varying from 3,000 1<> 
 8,000 feet high. In the valley and wind- 
 ing through it like a ribbon of polished 
 silver, about 4,000 feet below us, is the 
 clear, beautiful Merced River, now hid 
 by rocks, now white with leaping over 
 its stony bed, now shining in the sun, 
 now hid by trees, again appearing far be- 
 low its hiding-place, meandering through 
 a field of living emerald, and then losing 
 itself in the rocky gorge to appear away 
 at the extremity of the valley. 
 
 Retracing our steps, we come to the 
 J fountain-view House for dinner. To 
 reach the valley we must travel 12 miles. 
 The ride is a rough one. At times we 
 are climbing the edge of a mountain, and 
 are so close to its side that to see down 
 for 2,000 feet in a straight line is no 
 uncommon thing. By-and-by we are 
 buried in the narrow valley between two 
 hills. Crossing a morass, with the mud 
 up to the stomach of the horse, is not 
 an unusual occurrence. Wading swift- 
 running brooks, clambering over stones 
 and bowlders, and jumping fallen trees, 
 fill up the measure of our ride for 
 the first six miles. All at once we are 
 on a little green plateau, about 20 feet 
 square, on the very verge of the south- 
 west wall of the valley. This is the 
 world-renowned hvtpiration Point. We 
 dismount, raise our eyes to the cast, and 
 behold in one glance the whole Yosemite 
 Valley. One glance is sufficient; as on 
 the plate of the photographer, that view 
 is impressed upon the photographic plate 
 of the heart, never, never to be effaced — 
 mountains, rock, perpendicular ledge, 
 towering spires, thousands of feet high, 
 snow-clad mountains, bald peaks, peering 
 into the blue vault of heaven, barren 
 domes of gray granite, water-falls, cas- 
 cades and brooks, green fields and wind- 
 ing streams. Some of the grandest won- 
 ders of the world are taken in at ono 
 view — the whole Yosemite seen at ono 
 glance. We think we could spend a life- 
 time here; but time is precious, as 
 night is coming on; so we remount our 
 horses, and, turning our back upon In- 
 spiration l'oint, begin descending into 
 the vallev. For three hours we toil iu 
 
Yosemite Valley.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Yosemite Vallet. 
 
 the descent. To ride down the trail 
 would be risking life and limb ; so we 
 dismount aud almost slide down the hill. 
 However, we get to the bottom of the val- 
 ley in safety at last, and now a few words 
 about this wonderful chasm, known as 
 
 UToseBBniite Valley. It is situated 
 on the Merced River, in the southern 
 portion of the county of Mariposa, 140 
 miles a little southeast from San Fran- 
 cisco, but nearly 250 miles from that city 
 by any of the usually travelled routes. 
 It is on the western slope of the Sierra 
 Nevada, midway between its eastern and 
 western base, and in the centre of the 
 State, measuring north and south. It is 
 a narrow gorge, about 8 miles in length, 
 from a half to a mile in width, and en- 
 closed in frowning granite walls rising 
 with almost unbroken and perpendicular 
 faces to the dizzy height of from 8,000 
 to 6,000 feet above the green and quiet 
 vale beneath. From the brows of the 
 precipices in several places spring streams 
 of water, which in seasons of rains and 
 znelting snows form cataracts of beauty 
 and magnificence surpassing any thing 
 known in mountain-scenery. 
 
 This valley was discovered in the 
 spring of 1851 by a party under the com- 
 mand of Major James D. Savage, in pursuit 
 of a band of predatory Indians, who made 
 it their stronghold, considering it inac- 
 cessible to the whites. Its name, " Yo- 
 semite " (pronounced as if terminating in 
 y), was given to it in the belief that it 
 was the Indian term for grizzly bear. 
 
 Several Indian names have been given to 
 prominent rocks and falls in the valley, 
 but, as these are difficult of pronunciation, 
 and as it is doubtful whether these savages 
 ever had names for such objects, with a 
 few exceptions, they have been discarded, 
 and the more appropriate and definitive 
 names of our own language adopted. The 
 chief features of the valley are threefold : 
 First, the perpendicular walls; second, 
 their great height, as compared with the 
 width of the valley ; and third, the very 
 small amount of talus or debris formed 
 at the base of these gigantic mountains 
 of rock. Many are the opinions respect- 
 ing the formation of the Yosemite, but 
 the most general one is that, by some vol- 
 canic action, these great mountains of 
 rock, like the Lyell and Merced groups, 
 have been suddenly rent in twain, from 
 dome to base, and the chasm thus made 
 widened by further volcanic action to its 
 present width. The valley is almost one 
 vast flower-garden; plants, shrubs, and 
 flowers of every hue, cover the ground 
 like a carpet ; the eye is dazzled by the 
 brilliancy of the color, and the air is 
 heavy with the fragrance from a million 
 blossoms. Trees of five and six hundred 
 years' growth raise their tall heads heav- 
 enward, yet beside and in comparison with 
 the vast perpendicular clefts of rocks, 
 they look like daisies beside a tall pine. 
 On every hand are seen the beautiful and 
 many-colored manzanita and madrone, 
 and trees of such shape and variety as 
 are never seeii in the Atlantic States. 
 
 TABLE OF ALTITUDES OF YOSEMITE VALLEY. 
 
 WATEE-FALLS. jj e 
 
 Indian Name. Sirmifeation. American Name. above I 
 
 Poho-no Spirit of the' Evil Wind Bridal Veil 940 
 
 Lung-oo-too-koo-ya Long and Slender Fall The Bibbon Fall 3,300 
 
 Yosemite Large Grizzly Bear 2,034 
 
 (First Fall, 1,600 feet; Second Fall, 434 feet; Third Fall, 600 feet.) 
 
 Pi-ivy -ack Cataract of Diamonds Vernal 350 
 
 Yo-wi-ye Meandering Nevada 700 
 
 Tu-lool-we-ack South Canon 600 
 
 MOUNTAIN B. 
 
 Tis-sa-ack Goddess of the Valley South Dome 6.000 
 
 Cloud's Best 6,450 
 
 To-coy-ae Shade to Indian Baby-Basket North Dome 3,725 
 
 Mah-ta Martyr Mountain..." Cap of Liberty 4<iiiO 
 
 See-ivah-lam Mt. Starr King 5.600 
 
 Er-na-ting Law-oo-too.. Bear-skin Mountain Glacier Rock 3.700 
 
 Tu-toch-ah nu-lah Great Chief of the Valley El Capitan 3,300 
 
 Wah-wah-le-na Three. Graces §,750 
 
 Pom-pom-pa-sus Mountains playing Leap-frog Three Brothers 4,200 
 
 Poo-see-nah Chuck-ka . .Large Acorn Cache Cathed ral Bock 2,400 
 
 Sentinel Dome 4,000 
 
 Loya Sentinel Bock 3,270 
 
 2»5 
 
 inlt 
 
 feet. 
 
WESTERN TO UK. 
 
 [YOSEMITE VALLEY. 
 
 
 
 206 
 
El Capitan.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Mirror Lake. 
 
 El Capitam is tho most prominent 
 attraction to the eye ; and, although not 
 so high by several thousand feet as some 
 of its giant neighbors, yet, its isolation, 
 its breadth, its perpendicular sides, its 
 bold, defiant shape, its prominence as it 
 stands out like a great rock promontory 
 into the valley, make it, as its name indi- 
 cates, the Great Chief of the Valley. It 
 is 3,300 feet in height. Approaching the 
 base of the mountain and bending the 
 head and stretching the eye away up 
 heavenward and by degrees taking in 
 ths full view of the Chieftain, the be- 
 holder will stand in mute astonishment. 
 There is no slope to El Capitan ; its mas- 
 sive gray granite sides, destitute of vege- 
 tation, are perpendicular. 
 
 Looking up the valley from the foot 
 of the Mariposa trail, El Capitan is seen 
 on the left, and on the right the Cathe- 
 dral Rocks, with the ever beautiful 
 and swaying Po-ho-no — Spirit of the 
 Evil Wind — Bridal-veil Fall jumping in 
 sportive glee a distance of 910 feet iuto 
 the valley. The water, long ere it reaches 
 its rocky bed, i3 converted into mist, so 
 that like a living, laughing, jumping snow- 
 storm the water descends into its rocky 
 bed. Caught by the gentle wind in the 
 valley, the waters are wafted hither and 
 thither, at times wide-spreading like a 
 veil, and again closing as if to hide its 
 purity ; swaying now to the right and 
 now to the left, ever changing, ever 
 beautiful, ever waving, ever running 
 Bridal Veil — it is the charm of the Yo- 
 semite. At the east of Po-ho-no are 
 the Cathedral Rocks, 2,600 feet in height, 
 standing like isolated church-spires, of 
 solid granite, with rocky sides gently 
 sloping from the base to the pinnacle, 
 with no signs of vegetation on the rugged 
 sides, and as yet no human foot has stood 
 on that barren eminence. 
 
 The Virgin's Tears Creek, directly op- 
 posite the Bridal Veil, makes a fine fall, 
 over a thousand feet high, included in a 
 deep recess of the rocks near the lower 
 corner of El Capitan. This is a beautiful 
 fall while it lasts, but the stream which 
 produces it dries up early in the season. 
 
 Farther up the valley and above El 
 Capitan is the triple group of rocks 
 known as The Three Brothers — Pom- 
 pom -pa-sus — which means, as Professor 
 
 Whitney says, "Mountains playing Leap- 
 frog." From below, the peculiar shape of 
 the three rocks, with their heads peering 
 over each other, gives the appearance 
 very much of three frogs. The highest 
 is about 4,000 feet above the valley. 
 
 Proceeding up the valley, we behold, 
 on our left, the Yosemite Falls — three in 
 one — the first leap is 1,600 feet, the 
 second 43-1 feet, and the third 600 feet. 
 The water is shot with great force over 
 the edge of the rocky cleft, causing it to 
 take a wild plunging leap into a vast ba- 
 sin of rock. Gathering strength, it 
 again leaps forth, and, falling between 
 the North Dome and the Three Brothers, 
 takes its fiual plunge of 600 feet into 
 the valley. The rumble and roar of the 
 falls are heard at all times, but, in the 
 quiet of the evening, they are so great 
 that it seems as if the very earth were 
 shaking. Probably no falls in the world 
 can compare with these in height and in 
 romantic grandeur. Niagara is 195 feet 
 high, yet here is one 2,634 feet in height, 
 while the renowned Staubbaeh of Swit- 
 zerland is not to be compared with it. 
 
 Still east of the Yosemite Falls are the 
 Royal Arches, one vast rocky wall, several 
 thousand feet high, with vertical sides ; 
 while up toward the top, the wall seems 
 scooped out, and is appropriately called 
 the "Shade to Indian Baby-Basket." 
 
 To the north of the Arches, rounded in 
 perfect symmetrical form, looms up tho 
 North Dome 3,725 feet. Presenting its 
 rocky, barren, and bald head to the heats 
 of summer, and the driving snow-storms 
 of winter, without a green speck on its 
 rounded sides, it forms the northeastern 
 boundary of the Yosemite. 
 
 Lying in perfect quiet and seclusion, 
 at the foot of and between the North 
 and South Dome, is one of the most 
 beautiful of land-locked bodies of water, 
 " Mirror Lake." Pure, clear, cold, re- 
 flecting every rock, and ledge, and dome, 
 it is a perfect mirror. Looking up, the 
 towering battlements of rock are seen ; 
 looking down into the water, the same 
 rocks are reflected in the lake as far be- 
 low us. After a weary ride on horseback, 
 and clambering over hills, fording brooks 
 and swift-running streams, it is pleasant 
 to dismount at this lake, the head of the 
 valley, sit quietly upon a great stone, 
 297 
 
The Vernal Fall.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Coulterville Route. 
 
 near the water's edge, and drink in the 
 beauty and grandeur of the scene. With- 
 out moving from the margin of the lake, 
 but simply casting our eyes to the right, 
 we are startled by the towering, almost 
 overhanging column of granite 6,000 
 feet above us in an almost straight line, 
 and absolutely vertical for more than 
 2,300 feet from the summit, and then 
 falling off with a steep slope of 70° to 
 the bottom of the canon. This is the 
 South or Half Dome, the loftiest and to 
 near inspection the grandest and most 
 imposing mountain of rock in the valley. 
 
 Remounting our horses for the purpose 
 of visiting the Vernal and Nevada Falls, 
 we ride through a portion of the valley 
 carpeted with flowers; not a step do our 
 beasts take but some flower of rare 
 beauty and fragrance is crushed beneath 
 their feet. The Merced River, supplied 
 by the many water-falls of the Yosemite 
 and the ever-melting snow from the 
 mountain-tops, flows through the valley ; 
 at times gliding smoothly on between 
 banks of rare shrubs and flowers, and 
 again plunging madly over broken rocks 
 and stones. To reach the falls we are 
 obliged to cross the Merced. 
 
 Threading our way over broken rocks 
 and the debris at the base of the Senti- 
 nel Dome, we reach Pi-wy-ack (Cataract 
 of Diamonds) — the Vernal Fall. Nothing 
 can be seen but a falling cloud of white 
 foam, leaping over such a rocky bed, 
 and in such a declivity, that the noise, 
 rapidity, and bed of the rapids above 
 Niagara, arc not to be compared to 
 it. For half a mile below the falls no 
 water can be seen — nothing but running 
 foam, white as milk. Reaching the bot- 
 tom of the falls, they have the same ap- 
 pearance. At cither side of the chasm 
 
 rise the vertical rocks, while in the cen- 
 tre, the water, lashed into a milky white- 
 neSSj tiikes the fearful plunge into the 
 basin of gray rock. Beautiful and state- 
 ly pines cover the hills and mountains, 
 and, at our feet, flowers of a hundred 
 varieties lend their beauty and fragrance 
 to the scene, and render our resting- 
 place, on the bank above the basin of 
 the fall, one of extreme pleasure. 
 
 Several small encampments of Digger 
 Indians are generally to be found in the 
 valley. They should be visited. If not 
 delighted, the visitor will certainly be 
 amused at the primitive mode of living 
 of those aborigines. We have already 
 spoken of them in Route XIII. of Cali- 
 fornia. (See page 287.) 
 
 The guide will explain to the visitor 
 all the principal points of interest of the 
 Yosemite, will tell him the name of every 
 rock and water-fall, and will narrate 
 strange stories of Indian adventure and 
 warfare in the valley. 
 
 Hotels. — There are three hotels in 
 the valley — all well kept. They are Ly- 
 difs, Black's, and Hutching 1 s. The " ta- 
 ble " at each is well provided, and the 
 sleeping-accommodations are excellent. 
 
 By an Act of Congress, the Yosemite 
 Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Big 
 Trees were granted to the State of Cali- 
 fornia upon the express condition that 
 they should be kept as public lands — 
 " inalienable for all time." California ac- 
 cepted the grant, and the lands are now 
 under the care of Stale commissioners. 
 
 Returning from the Yosemite by the 
 Coulterville route, we have the Bower 
 Cave, many fine views of the distant 
 Sierra, and can visit the Calaveras Big 
 Trees. Stockton cau be reached on the 
 second day. 
 
 By Hail. 
 
 By Stage. 
 
 Ilorxchacl: or 
 on Wheels. 
 
 On Horseback. 
 
 298 
 
 THE COULTEKYILLE EOUTE. 
 
 Fan Francisco to Stockton 00 
 
 [Stockton to Knight's Ferry 3(> 
 
 ) Knight's Ferry to Crimea House 12 
 
 | Crimea House" to Don Pedro's Bar 9 
 
 { Don Pedro's Bar to Coulterville , 1-4 
 
 j Coulterville to Bower Cave 12 
 
 ) Bower Cave to Black's >> 
 
 ' Black's to Deer Flat 6 
 
 Deer Flat to 1 lazel (ireen 5; 
 
 llazd Green to Crane Flat 5 
 
 < 'nee- Flat to Tamarack Flat 4; 
 
 Tamarack Flat to Boundary - 
 
 Boundan sukc to Edge of Valley 0] 
 
 E Ige of Valley to Lower 1 lotel 1 
 
 Total 
 
 — 1G1 
 
 -J9J 
 
 209] 
 
Bower Cave.] 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Hardin's Route. 
 
 Stages leave Stockton every day, ex- 
 cept Sunday, for Sonora, via Chinese 
 Camp, passing through the following sta- 
 tions : Twelve-Mile House (breakfast) ; 
 Farmington (16 miles); Twenty-six-Mile 
 House, Knight's Ferry (37 miles, din- 
 ner) ; Crimea House (48 miles), where 
 passengers take Coulter & Son's stages 
 for Coulterville, daily. A stage leaves 
 Coultervillc daily for Hazel Green, dis- 
 tant 25 miles. Procuring horses at Coul- 
 tervillc for the trip, and providing our- 
 selves with blankets and provisions, we 
 start for Yosemite. Four days are need- 
 ed to make the trip comfortably and 
 profitably. The tourist should be care- 
 ful to make an agreement with his guide 
 before starting, and his bargain for the 
 use of horses should include their feed 
 and stabling until their return to Coul- 
 terville. These hints should be borne 
 in mind on all occasions of travel in the 
 Yosemite, except, of course, when, as is 
 the case in the Central Pacific Railway 
 route, the cost of guides, horses, etc., is 
 included in the price of the excursion 
 ticket. 
 
 At Marble Springs, on the trail, dis- 
 tant 10 miles, may be seen the singular, 
 grotto-like formation called 
 
 Bower Ciwe. — This picturesque 
 locality is well worth visiting. Professor 
 J. D. Whitney, the State Geologist, thus 
 describes it : " It consists of an immense 
 crack in the limestone, open to the air at 
 the surface, and irregularly widened out 
 in a cave-like manner below, by the ac- 
 tion of currents of water. On the upper 
 side of the obliquely-descending crevice, 
 an overhanging ledge of rock permits the 
 vertical depth of the cave to the level of 
 the water, which partly fills it, to be meas- 
 ured ; it is 109 feet. The length of the 
 open crevice is 133 feet, and its width 86. 
 At various heights deep cavities, or small 
 caves, are worn in the rock, some of 
 which may be followed for a considera- 
 ble distance. The picturesque effect of 
 the cave is greatly heightened by the 
 growth within it of three large maple- 
 trees, of which the branches project out 
 at the top. The water at the bottom is 
 exceedingly pellucid, permitting the rami- 
 
 fications of the crevice beneath its sur- 
 face to be seen for a depth of at least 40 
 feet. Access can be had to the bottom 
 of the cave by a series of steps, and a 
 boat is provided for the use of visitors ; 
 other conveniences are also furnished, 
 permitting a cool and comfortable stay 
 in this curious place, which seems to be 
 peculiarly adapted for a picnic in hot 
 weather." 
 
 Passing on to Deer Flat, 23 miles from 
 Coulterville, we camp for the night. At 
 Hazel Green, 5£ miles distant, and 6,679 
 feet above the sea, a fine view of the San 
 Joaquin Valley may be had. At Crane 
 Flat, 34 miles, the snow-clad Sierras be- 
 gin to rise in serrated peaks above the 
 horizon, and the trail branches off to 
 
 TaiolsiMiMe Grove oi* iSaj*- 
 Trees, about a mile and a half dis- 
 tant. These are similar to the Big Trees of 
 Calaveras (see page 290) and the Big Trees 
 of Mariposa (see page 293), but are fewer 
 in number. There are 24 trees, the larg- 
 est 36 feet in diameter. One of these, 
 consisting of two joined at the base, is 
 called the Siamese Twins, and is 114 feet 
 in circumference. 
 
 A fine view of the Yosemite is had at 
 Valley View, but it is inferior to that at 
 Inspiration Point. 
 
 TIIE BIG OAK FLAT OR HARDIN'S 
 BOUTE. 
 
 This is identical with the Coulterville 
 route as far as Rattlesnake, from which 
 point stages run, via Big Oak Flat and 
 Garrote, to Hardin's, which is 20 miles 
 from Garrote and within 25 miles of 
 Yosemite Valley. This road from Gar- 
 rote is a new, and said to be a good one. 
 The accommodations at Hardin's are 
 good. Passengers are carried on horse- 
 back from Hardin's to Yosemite for $5, 
 or through-tickets may be had at the 
 office of Sisson & Co., at Stockton, for 
 $20, there being no extra expense for 
 guides. Horses are obtained for short 
 excursions in the valley at $1.50 per day. 
 The trail passes directly through the 
 Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees. (See 
 page 299.) 
 
 29-J 
 
Pacific Railway.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA PACIFIC RAILWAY AND BIO OAK FLAT ROUTE. 
 
 B*l Steamer. 
 By Rail. 
 
 Snn Francisco to Stockton 117 
 
 Stockton to Copperopolis 36 
 
 By Stage or [ ('opperopolis to Chinese Camp 15 
 
 other wheeled < Chinese Camp to Jacksonville 4 
 
 Jacksonville to Big Oak Flat 8 
 
 Big Oak Flat to Sprague's Ranch '.» 
 
 Sprague's Ranch to Big Flume 4 
 
 Big Flume to South Fork Tuolumne River 3 
 
 South Fork to Hardin's Ranch 4 
 
 Hardin's Ranch to Tamarack Flat 14 
 
 Tamarack Flat to Boundary Corner, Yosemite 
 
 , Boundary Corner to Lower Hotel 
 
 Vehicle. 
 
 On Horseback. - 
 
 Total distance. 
 
 •224} 
 
 This route is identical with Route XV. 
 of California as far as Milton, on the 
 Stockton & Copperopolis Railway. From 
 there the tourist has his choice to go to the 
 valley direct by the way of Chinese Camp 
 and Garrote, spending the first night at 
 the latter place, and reaching the valley 
 by the *eay of Tamarack Flats, with eleven 
 miles of horseback-riding, early in the 
 evening of the second day ; or, if he 
 chooses to take the Calaveras Big Tree 
 grove on the route — as he should do — 
 he will go direct to the Big Trees from 
 Milton, spending the first night there, and 
 then pass on by the way of Sonora to the 
 former route at Chinese Camp, whence 
 the journey to the valley is the same as 
 before — this detour to the Calaveras grove 
 adding one day to the time. By this route 
 the fare is $20, or $38 for the round trip, 
 if the traveller goes direct to the valley, 
 and if by way of the Calaveras Big Trees 
 is §25, or §10 for the round trip. By 
 either route, thus, the journey is made in 
 two days and a half, or three days and a 
 half if the Big Tree Grove on either 
 route is visited. There would probably 
 be some inconvenience in going by one 
 route and returning by the other, but this 
 is the tme course for " the intelligent 
 traveller," who would undoubtedly be 
 able to find in the valley return-horses 
 ami guides by either route. Two days 
 will suffice in the valley, though three are 
 almost necessary, and four better still ; 
 and *75 will now cover all expenses for 
 the eight or ten days' journey and visit 
 to this most wonderful piece of Nature 
 on the American Continent. 
 
 Copperopolis (36 miles) is the 
 
 centre and principal business place of 
 
 the copper-mines of Calaveras County. 
 
 It was nearly destroyed by fire Beveral 
 
 :;i>(> 
 
 years ago, and is being rebuilt. On ac- 
 count of the low prices of copper, the 
 business of the place is not as active as 
 it formerly was. 
 
 The tourist can also visit the Yosemite 
 by way of the Calaveras Big Trees, by 
 the California Pacific Railway route, 
 taking the steamer " New World " from 
 San Francisco to Vallejo (23 miles), and 
 travelling thence by rail to Sacramento 
 (60 miles further). From the latter place 
 the route is identical with the one de- 
 scribed immediately following. 
 
 SACRAMENTO, GALT, AND SONORA 
 ROUTE (ROUND TRIP). 
 
 Via Western Division of th-e Central Pacijia 
 Hallway, ami by Stage. 
 
 Stations. — Western Division Central 
 Pacific Railway : Sacramento to Brigh- 
 ton, 5 miles ; Florin, 9 ; Elk Grove, 1 5 ; 
 McOonnell's, 10 ; Gait (connects with 
 Btages for Mokelumne Hill), 26. 
 
 Stations. — Hamilton s Stage Line: 
 Gait to lone City, 24 miles; Jackson, 
 34 ; Amador, 37 ; Mokelumne Hill (con- 
 nects with stage for West Point, Angel's, 
 Murphy's, and Big Trees), 41. From 
 Sacramento, 67. 
 
 Mokelumne Hill to Bitf Trees on horse- 
 back-, 29 miles. From Sacramento, !)6. 
 
 Passengers from the Big Tree (J rove 
 to the Yosemite Valley leave early in the 
 morning by Sisson & Co. '8 stages for 
 Sonora, connecting with Shoup k, Co.'s 
 stages at Chinese Camp, and arrive at 
 Garrote to stop overnight and take stage 
 the next morning and arrive at the val- 
 ley in the afternoon. The tourist can 
 leave Yosemite via either Mariposa or 
 Coultcrville, connecting at Modesto and 
 Lathrop with trains of the Central Pa- 
 cilic Railway cast and west. 
 
MOKELUMNE HlLL. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 [Sierra Mountains. 
 
 The route from Sacramento to Gait is 
 described on page 119. 
 
 The Big Trees of Calaveras are de- 
 scribed in Route XV. of California. 
 (/See page 289.) 
 
 Mokolumnc Mill (41 miles) is 
 a thriving town of about 1,500 inhab- 
 itants, centrally situated in Calaveras 
 County. Placer-mining is still carried 
 on in the deep banks and flats in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 VISIT TO THE HIGH SIERRAS, AND 
 TOUR AROUND THE YOSEMITE Y AL- 
 LEY 
 
 This is a tour not generally made by 
 travellers, but it promises to grow in 
 favor as its attractions become better 
 known. The following description is for 
 the most part condensed from the ad- 
 mirable report of Prof. J. D. Whitney, 
 the State Geologist of California : * By 
 adding a few more days to the time re- 
 quired for a trip to the Yosemitc, the 
 tourist, by visiting the higher region of 
 the Sierra Nevada — the Alps of Cali- 
 fornia, as the upper portion of this great 
 chain of mountains is sometimes called — 
 may make himself acquainted with a 
 type of scenery quite different from that 
 of countries usually visited by pleasure- 
 travellers, and may enjoy the sight of 
 as lofty snow-covered peaks, and as 
 grand panoramic views of mountain and 
 valley, as he can find in Switzerland it- 
 self. This region of the High Sierra in 
 California is hardly yet opened to visit- 
 ors, so far as the providing for them 
 public accommodations is concerned, for 
 there is not an hotel, nor a permanently- 
 inhabited house, anywhere near the crest 
 of the Sierra, between the Silver Moun- 
 tain Road on the north and Walker's 
 Pass on the south ; but such is the mild- 
 ness of the summer, and so steady is the 
 clearness of the atmosphere in the Cali- 
 fornia!] high mountains, that, with a very 
 limited amount of preparation, one may 
 make the tour outside of the Yosemitc 
 almost without any discomforts, and cer- 
 tainly without any danger. In the Sierra 
 Nevada, the entire absence of severe 
 storms during the summer, and the al- 
 
 * The report has been elaborated and published 
 as "The Yosemite Guide-Book." 
 
 most uninterrupted serenity of the sky, 
 particularly invite to pleasure-travel. 
 
 For a journey around the Yosemite, 
 or in any portion of the High Sierra, 
 mules or horses may be hired at Bear 
 Valley, Mariposa, or Coultcrville ; and 
 the services of some one who will act as 
 a guide can be obtained usually at either 
 of these places. There are as yet no 
 regular guides for the high mountains. 
 A good pedestrian will often prefer to 
 walk, and will pack his baggage on a 
 horse or a mule. For convenience and 
 enjoyment, the party should consist of 
 several persons. A good supply of blank- 
 ets and of provisions, with a few simple 
 cooking-utensils, an axe, a light tent, 
 substantial woollen clothes, and last, 
 though by no means least, a pair of 
 boots with the soles filled with nails. 
 The guide will initiate the unpractised 
 traveller into the mysterious art of 
 " packing " a mule or horse, an accom- 
 plishment only acquired by actual prac- 
 tice, but one on the skilful performance 
 of which much of his comfort depends. 
 
 Perhaps the best trip that can be taken 
 by the tourist visiting the Yosemite is an 
 excursion around the valley, on the out- 
 side. This will reveal much that is of 
 great iuterest, occupying but a few days, 
 and which can be made mostly on beaten 
 trails without the slightest difficulty or 
 danger. In making the circuit of the 
 Yosemite, as here proposed, the traveller 
 should start from the valley itself, leav- 
 ing it on the north side, and, following 
 the Mono trail to Soda Springs, camp 
 there, and ascend Mount Dana, then re- 
 turn by the trail from Mono to Mariposa, 
 passing behind Cloud's Rest and the 
 Half Dome, through the Little Yosemitc, 
 across the llliloucUe, by the Sentinel 
 Dome, then to West/alls, and back into 
 the valley, or to Clark's Ranch, as may 
 be desired, the whole trip occupying 
 about a week. 
 
 Leaving the valley, the traveller ascends 
 to the plateau by the Coultcrville trail; 
 but, instead of keeping on the trail 
 back to that place, turns sharp to the 
 right just after passing the Boundary 
 corner, taking the trail formerly much 
 used by mule-trains between Big Oak 
 Flat and Aurora. The first good camp- 
 ing-ground, after leaving the valley on 
 301 
 
Mount Hoffmann.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Mount Dana. 
 
 the Mono trail, is in the neighborhood 
 of the Vifffinft Tears Creek, and from 
 here the highest of the " Three Broth- 
 ers " may be easily reached in an hour 
 or two. From this commanding point, 
 almost 4,000 feet above the valley, the 
 view is very fine, the Merced River and 
 green meadows which border it seeming 
 to be directly under the observer's feet. 
 Probably there is no better place from 
 which to get a bird's-eye view of the 
 Yosemite Valley itself. After crossing 
 the Virgin's Tears, the next creek is that 
 which forms the Yosemite Falls, and 
 which is about two miles farther on. 
 The trail crosses this creek a little above 
 a small meadow. About two miles far- 
 ther on is a high meadow called Deer 
 Park. Descending a little, we soon reach 
 Porcupine Flat, 8,173 feet above tide- 
 water, and a good camping-ground for 
 those who wish to visit Mount Hoffmann. 
 
 Mount Ilofininuii is 10,872 
 feet above the sea-level. It is a bare 
 granitic mass, with a gently-curving slope 
 on the south side, but falling oif in a 
 grand precipice to the north. The view 
 from the summit is remarkably fine, and 
 those who cannot visit the higher peaks 
 of the main ridge of the Sierra are ad- 
 vised to ascend this, as the trip from the 
 Yosemite and back need only take two 
 or three days. 
 
 Bj»lkc 'fi'enaya, the head of the 
 branch of the Merced of the same name, 
 is the next point of interest on the trail. 
 It is a beautiful sheet of water, a mile 
 long and half a mile wide. The trail 
 passes around its east side, and good 
 camping-ground can be found at the up- 
 per end in a fine grove of firs and pines. 
 At the head of the lake is a very con- 
 spicuous conical knob of smooth granite, 
 about 800 feet high, quite bare of vege- 
 tation, and beautifully scored and pol- 
 ished by former glaciers. The traces of 
 the existence of an immense flow of ice 
 down the valley, now occupied by Lake 
 Tenaya, begin here to be very conspicu- 
 ous. A branch of the Great Tuolumne 
 Glacier flowed over into the Tenaya Val- 
 ley through this pass and the Tuolumne 
 River. The whole thickness of the ice 
 in the Tuolumne Valley must have been 
 at least 1,000 feet. The summit of this 
 pa ia 9,070 feet above the sea-level. 
 802 
 
 Cathedral Peal*. — The trail 
 descends into the valley of Tuolumne, 
 winding down under the brow of the 
 Cathedral Peak Group, a grand mass of 
 rock, which first becomes noticeable just 
 before reaching Lake Tenaya. This is 
 one of the grandest landmarks in the 
 whole region, and has been most appro- 
 priately named. As seen from the west 
 and southwest, it presents the appear- 
 ance of a lofty mass of rock, cut square- 
 ly down on all sides for more than a 
 thousand feet, and having at its southern 
 end a beautiful cluster of slender pinna- 
 cles, which rise several hundred feet 
 above the main body. It needs no ef- 
 fort of the imagination to see the resem- 
 blance of the whole to a Gothic cathe- 
 dral. Its summit is about 2,500 feet 
 above the surrounding plateau, and about 
 11,000 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 The Talley of the Tno- 
 lnnine, into which the trail now de- 
 scends, is one of the most picturesque 
 and delightful of the High Sierra. Sit- 
 uated at an elevation of between 8,000 
 and 9,000 feet above the sea-level, sur- 
 rounded by noble ranges and fantasti- 
 cally-shaped peaks which rise from 3,000 
 to 4,000 feet higher, and from which 
 snow never entirely disappears, trav- 
 ersed by a clear, rapid river, along which 
 meadows of carices and clumps of pines 
 and firs alternate, the effect of the whole 
 is indeed superb. The main portion of 
 the valley is about four miles long, and 
 from half to a third of a mile wide. At 
 its upper end it forks, the Mono trail 
 taking the left-hand branch, or that 
 which comes down from Mount Dana, 
 while the right-hand fork, or that which 
 enters from the southeast, is the one 
 heading on the north side of Mount 
 Lyell, about eight miles above the junc- 
 tion of the two branches. 
 
 Soda Springs, on the north side 
 of the Tuolumne, near where the Mono 
 trail descends into the valley, offers good 
 camping-ground. The springs furnish a 
 mild chalybeate water, slightly impreg 
 nated with carbonic-acid gas. They ai 
 30 or 40 feet above the river, and are 
 8,680 feet above the sea. From this 
 point the view in all directions is mag- 
 nificent. 
 
 Mount Dana, — Of all the cxcui- 
 
Little Yosemite Valley.] 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 ^Mount Starr Kino. 
 
 sions which can be mado from Soda 
 Springs, the one most to be recommend- 
 ed is the ascent of Mount Dana, as being 
 entirely without difficulty or danger, and 
 as offering one of the grandest panoramic 
 views in the Sierra Nevada. Those who 
 wish to try a more difficult feat can climb 
 Mount Lycll or Mount Conncrs. As it is 
 rather too hard a day's work to go from 
 Soda Springs to the summit of Mount 
 Dana and back in a day, it will be con- 
 venient to move camp to the base of the 
 mountain, near the head of the Mono 
 Pass. The distance from the springs to 
 the summit of the pass is about 10 miles 
 in a straight line, and perhaps 12 in fol- 
 lowing the trail. 
 
 If the traveller has ascended Mount 
 Dana, he will probably desire to return 
 down the Tuolumne Valley, and continue 
 his journey on the trail leading south of 
 Cloud's Rest to the Little Yosemite and 
 Sentinel Dome, and so back to Clark's 
 Ranch. This trail strikes directly south 
 from the crossing of the Tuolumne, a 
 little below Soda Springs, and passes 
 close under Cathedral Peak, on the 
 west side, then along the back or east 
 side of Cloud's Rest, and down into the 
 Little Yoscmite Valley, as it is called. 
 
 'Flic ILittle Yoscswitc Val- 
 ley is a flat valley or mountain-meadow, 
 about four miles long and half a mile to 
 a mile wide. It is enclosed between 
 walls from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, with 
 numerous projecting buttresses and an- 
 gltes, topped with dome-shaped masses. 
 At the upper end of the valley it con- 
 tracts to a V-shaped gorge, through 
 which the Merced rushes with rapid de- 
 
 scent over huge masses of debris. The 
 Little Yosemite is about 6,000 feet 
 above the sea-level, or 2,000 feet above 
 the Yosemite, of which it is a kind of 
 continuation, being on the same stream 
 — namely, the main Merced — and only a 
 short distance above the Nevada Fall, 
 from the summit of which easy access 
 may be had to it, whenever the bridge 
 across the river between the Vernal and 
 Nevada Falls shall be rebuilt. On the 
 south side, about midway up the val- 
 ley, a cascade comes sliding down in a 
 clear sheet over a rounded mass of gran- 
 ite. It is said to be 1,200 feet in height. 
 The concentric structure of the granite 
 is beautifully marked in the Little Yose- 
 mite. • 
 
 Mount Starr King. — The 
 trail, leaving the Little Yosemite, crosses 
 the divide between the Merced and the 
 Illouette, then the last-named stream, 
 passing to the west of Mount Starr King, 
 a remarkable conical knob of granite, of 
 which there is quite a group in this vi- 
 cinity. Starr King is the steepest cone 
 in the region, with the exception of the 
 Half Dome, and is very smooth, hardly 
 having a break in it. The summit is in- 
 accessible. 
 
 We have given the tourist as many 
 hints as to the character and locality of 
 the objects to be seen along the route 
 around the Yosemite Valley as our space 
 will allow. If he desires to know more 
 of the High Sierra, the guide will con- 
 duct him to numerous mountains, peaks, 
 passes, and valleys, each one of which 
 has its own peculiar beauties and attrac- 
 tions. (See Appendix.) 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 Oregon was organized as a Territory 
 August 16, 1848, and was admitted into 
 the Union as a State, February 16, 1859. 
 It lies upon the Pacific, north of Califor- 
 nia, and contains an area of 95,274 square 
 miles. The first visit of the white race to 
 Oregon was in 1115, when a Spanish voy- 
 ageur entered the Juan del Fuca Straits. 
 Three years afterward (17*78), the cele- 
 brated, navigator, Captain Cook, sailed 
 alon2; its shores. In 1791 the waters of 
 
 the Columbia River were discovered by 
 Captain Gray, of Boston. An expedition, 
 or exploring-party, was sent out in the 
 year 1804 by the United States, com- 
 manded by Lewis and Clark, who wintered 
 in 1805-6 at the mouth of the Columbia. 
 From that period the coast has been the 
 resort of both English and American fur- 
 traders. By the treaty concluded with 
 Great Britain in 1846, this great territory, 
 which had up to that time been ''ointly 
 303 
 
Climate, Minerals, Etc.] WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Willamette River 
 
 occupied by English and American ad- 
 venturers, was divided — the one taking 
 the portion above the parallel of 49° north 
 latitude, and the other all the country 
 south of that line. 
 
 Emigration to Oregon was earnestly 
 commenced in 1839, the first settlers 
 crossing through the South Pass into 
 Willamette Valley. For some years the 
 settlement of the country was retarded 
 by the more brilliant attractions of Cali- 
 fornia, though the ultimate result of this 
 neighborship will be to stimulate devel- 
 opment. Washington Territory, on the 
 north, was a part of Oregon until the 
 year 1853, when it became a distinct 
 government. 
 
 The coast of Oregon, viewed from the 
 sea, is, like that of California, stern and 
 rock-bound, except that, while in the lat- 
 ter region the nearer mountains follow the 
 line of the shore, in Oregon they approach 
 the ocean at a wide angle. The lower 
 or Pacific country occupies an area of 
 from 75 to 120 miles wide, in which lie 
 the great valleys of Willamette, Umpqua, 
 and Rogue Rivers. Though the valley- 
 lands of the Willamette and the adjacent 
 regions are extremely fertile, yet the 
 greater portion of Oregon is not well 
 adapted for tillage. Nature here assumes 
 its sublimest forms, and the scenery is 
 among the grandest to be found on the 
 entire continent. Heavy rains usually 
 prevail in December, January, and Feb- 
 ruary, at which season the roads are well- 
 nigh impassable. 
 
 The climate, as on all the Pacific coast, 
 is milder than in corresponding latitudes 
 near the Atlantic. The winters are com- 
 paratively brief, and the snows, when 
 Bnow falls at all, are very light. 
 
 Oregon is prolific in grain, grass, fruit, 
 and timber. 
 
 Minerals. — Gold is found in various 
 parts of Southern Oregon, and silver, lead, 
 and copper, in the Cascade Mountains. 
 Coal is abundant at Coose Bay and other 
 points. Iron is to be had in abundance 
 within a few miies of Portland. 
 
 Oregon, like California, is famous for 
 its wonderful forest-growth. The Lam- 
 bert pine, a species of fir, sometimes 
 reaches, in the lower part of the country, 
 the magnificent height of 300 feet. 
 
 Population, etc. — The population of the 
 304 
 
 State in 1860 was 53,4G5 ; in 1870 it was 
 90,922. The total valuation of real es- 
 tate and personal property is given by 
 the census of 1870 as $31,798,510, against 
 $19,024,819 in 1860. In January, 1871, 
 there were 159 miles of railroad in 
 Oregon. 
 
 RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
 The C©liunal>i» HSivcr is the 
 
 greatest on the Pacific slope of the conti- 
 nent. It rises in a small lake among the 
 western acclivities of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, and flows in a devious course 1,200 
 miles to the Pacific, forming a great por- 
 tion of the dividing line between Oregon 
 and Washington Territory on the north. 
 Its first meanderings are northward along 
 the base of its great hill-ranges, and after- 
 ward its course is due west to the sea, 
 though very capriciously. It is a rapid 
 river, pushing its way through mighty 
 mountain-passes, and in many a cataract 
 of marvellous beauty. In its course 
 through the Cascade Range it falls into 
 a series of charming rapids, which may 
 be numbered among the chief natural at- 
 tractions of the country. The tide sets 
 up to this point, 140 miles. For 30 or 
 40 miles from its mouth the Columbia 
 spreads out into a chain of bay-like ex- 
 pansions from four to seven miles or 
 more in width. Its average width is less 
 than a mile. The shores are lined with 
 grand mountain-heights, making the land- 
 scape everywhere extremely interesting 
 and impressive. Vessels of 200 or 800 
 tons' burden may ascend to the foot of 
 the Cascades, cf which we shall speak 
 further presently. Above this point the 
 river is navigable for small vessels only, 
 and but at intervals in its course. {See 
 also page 2SS.) 
 
 MTSic W5llajie«*tte Kiver flows 
 from the foot of the Cascade Range, 200 
 miles, first northwest, and then north, to 
 the Columbia, eight miles below Fort Van- 
 couver. Its way is through the beautiful 
 valley-lands which bear its name, and 
 upon its banks are Oregon City, Port- 
 land, Corvallis, Eugene City, and other 
 thriving places. Ocean-steamers ascend 
 15 miles to Portland. Ten miles be- 
 yond this point, a series of fine falls 
 occurs in the passage of the river, above 
 which the waters arc again navigable. 
 
Willamette Valley.] 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 [Routes, etc. 
 
 perhaps GO miles, for small steamboats. 
 The Falls of the Willamette is a place 
 famous for its excellent salmon-fishing. 
 Among the tributaries of the Willamette 
 are the Tualatin, Yamhill, La Creole, 
 Luckamute, Long Tom, and Mary Riv- 
 ers, coming from the base of the Calla- 
 pocsa and Coast Range Mountains, and 
 the McKenzic, Santiam, Pudding, and 
 Clackamus, from the Cascade Range. 
 
 'ITlae RJanpqua asad. ISog'aae 
 BSivers, in Southern Oregon, are 
 large, beautiful streams. The former 
 is only navigable for about 60 miles 
 from the ocean to Rosebwig. 
 
 TTlae Valley oi* USae Willa- 
 mette is a most fertile region, and 
 very attractive in its natural curiosities. 
 It is 50 miles by 100 in extent, and sup- 
 ports by its agricultural products nearly 
 one-half of the entire population of the 
 State. Many remarkable instances are 
 to be found here of those eccentric moun- 
 tain formations known as Beetlers — huge, 
 conical, insulated hills. Near the mouth 
 of the Coupe River, there are two of these 
 heights, which tower up 1,000 feet, but 
 half a mile removed from each other at 
 their base. They are called Pisgdh and 
 Sinai. They stand in the midst of a plain 
 of many miles in extent. At a point near 
 the Rickreal River, in the Willamette Val- 
 ley, no less than seven snow-capped peaks 
 of the Cascade Range may be seen. 
 
 Tlae Cascade ISaiage includes 
 some of the loftiest mountain-peaks in the 
 United States, among which are Mount 
 Hood, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Pitt. 
 The first of this grand trio has a volcanic 
 crest 14,000 feet above the level of thesea. 
 The following altitudes were given by Pro- 
 fessor Wood, in his survey and explora- 
 tion a few years since : "At the summit 
 of the Cascade Range, and foot of Mount 
 Hood proper, 4,400 feet ; at the limit of 
 forest-trees, about 9,000 feet; at the high- 
 est limit of vegetation, 11,000 feet; at the 
 summit of the mountain, 17,000 feet." Be- 
 tween the Blue Mountains and the Cas- 
 cade Range lie a number of small lakes. 
 
 The view from the summit of Mount 
 Hood is thus described by a traveller: 
 "From south to north its whole line is at 
 once under the eye from Diamond Peak 
 to Rainier, a distance of not less than 400 
 miles. Within that distance are Mounts 
 
 St. Helen's, Baker, Jefferson, and the 
 Three Sisters, making, with Mount Hood, 
 eight snowy mountains. Eastward the 
 Blue Mountains are in distinct view for at 
 least 500 miles in length, and lying be- 
 tween us and them are the broad plains 
 of the Des Chutes, John Day, and Uma- 
 tilla Rivers, 150 miles in width. On the 
 west, the piny crests of the Cascades cut 
 clear against the sky, with the Willamette 
 Valley sleeping in quiet beauty at their 
 feet. The broad belt of ths Columbia 
 winds gracefully through the evergreen 
 valley toward the ocean. Within these 
 wide limits is every variety of mountain 
 and valley, lake and prairie, bold, beetling 
 precipices, and graceful, rounded summits, 
 blending and melting away into each other, 
 forming a picture of indescribable magnifi- 
 cence. On its northern side, Mount Hood 
 is nearly vertical for 7,000 feet ; there the 
 snows of winter accumulate till they reach 
 the very summit, but, when the summer 
 thaw commences, all this vast body of 
 snow becomes disintegrated at once, and, 
 in a sweeping avalanche, carrying all be- 
 fore it, buries itself in the deep furrows at 
 its base, and leaves the precipice bare." 
 
 ROUTES, ETC. 
 
 Portland, the commercial city of the 
 State, has been described in Rodte XIV. 
 of California. (See page 288.) It will 
 be the northern terminus of the Califor- 
 nia & Oregon Railway, At present it is 
 reached by steamer from San Francisco, 
 and by rail and stage from Sacramento 
 (see Route XII. of California), distant 
 642 miles. Numerous river-steamers ply 
 between Portland and the various towns 
 on the Willamette and Columbia Rivers. 
 A daily line of steamers leaves Portland 
 for the Lower Cascades of the Columbia 
 (65 miles), passing Cape Horn and Castle 
 Rock; thence by rail five miles to the 
 Upper Cascades, whence the traveller can 
 again take boat on the river for the Dalles. 
 Portland is one of the Pacific termini of 
 the Northern Pacific Railroad, which will 
 make it one of the great cities of the con- 
 tinent. 
 
 The California Jc Oregon Railroad offers 
 great attractions to tourists and sports- 
 men. It is now finished to Roseburg, 200 
 miles, and is being rapidly built through 
 Southern Oregon to the boundary-line, 
 305 
 
Dalles City.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Distances. 
 
 where it will connect with the line to San 
 Francisco ami the Pacific Railway. It 
 will be completed in the fall of 1874. 
 This road starts from Portland and runs 
 up the east side of the Willamette River. 
 The beautiful towns of Salem (the capital 
 of the State) and Albany are on this line. 
 It will pass through the fertile valleys of 
 the Umpqua and Rogue Rivers, scale the 
 magnificent Cascade range of mountains, 
 and skirt the beautiful "lake country." 
 
 Italics City, or " The Dallesj" is 
 a thriving town of about 2,000 inhabi- 
 tants, on the south bank of the Columbia, 
 a few miles east of the base of the Cascade 
 Mountains, and about 120 miles cast of 
 Portland. There is a large woollen-mill at 
 this place, capable of using 150,000 lbs. 
 of wool annually. Dalles City connects by 
 rail with Celilo, on the Columbia, with 
 Portland by steamer, and is a point of di- 
 vergence for travel east of the Cascades, 
 northerly into Washington Territory, east- 
 erly up the Columbia, southeasterly to the 
 John Day mining-region. The river at the 
 Dalles is confined between basaltic cliffs in 
 a channel less than 100 yards wide. A fine 
 view of Mount Hood is obtained here. 
 
 From Celilo eastward the tourist may 
 profitably pursue his trip to Umatilla (97 
 miles), Wallula (110 miles), Walla-Walla 
 (140 miles) (see Washington Territory), 
 and Lewiston, Idaho (223 miles). 
 
 HJmatilla, may be fairly regarded 
 as the head of certain navigation on the 
 Columbia. Hence, and from Wallula, 
 daily stages run over the Blue Moun- 
 tains to Boise and towns in Idaho. (Sec 
 Summary of Distances, etc.) 
 
 St. Helen's stands upon a rocky 
 bluif on the west side of the Columbia, 30 
 miles from Portland. The river is here 
 a mile wide, and forms a fine harbor. 
 
 Oregon diy is described in Route 
 XII. of California. (Sec page 286.) 
 
 Salem, the capital of the State, is 
 50 miles above Oregon City. It connects 
 by stage and river-boats for Portland. 
 (For description, see Route XII. of Cali- 
 fornia, page 28G.) 
 
 Astoria, 100 miles from Portland, 
 connects with that city by steamer. (See 
 Roite XIV. of California, page 288.) 
 
 <Jailon City is situated at the head? 
 waters of John Bay River, in the midst of 
 a profitable placer-mining region. 
 306 
 
 DISTANCES, ETC. 
 
 Mas*. 
 
 Portland to Lower Cascades 65 
 
 Across Portage 5 
 
 Upper Cascades to Dalles 45 
 
 "nb 
 
 Boats run daily: 
 
 Dalles to Celilo 15 
 
 Celilo to Wallula 110 
 
 Wallula to Walla-Walla SO 
 
 155 
 
 Boats run three times a week: 
 
 Dalles to Umatilla Ill 
 
 AValla-Walla to Lewiston 83 
 
 Stages run three times a week: 
 
 Lewiston to Florence 12ft 
 
 Lewiston to Elk City 14'J 
 
 Lewiston to Oro Fino bG 
 
 CANON CITY TO PALLES. 
 
 Wallhasran's Ranch 17 
 
 South Fork IT 
 
 Rock Creek IT 
 
 Mountain House 9 
 
 Alkali Flat 14 
 
 Muddy 22 
 
 Antelope Valley 16 
 
 Buck Hollow IS 
 
 Haystack 12 
 
 Cold Spring 10 
 
 Dixon's Bridge 15 
 
 Dalles 13 
 
 Stages run three times a week : * ' ' 
 
 WALLA-WALLA TO PLACERVILLE. 
 {Boise 3 fines.) 
 
 Walla- Walla to Walla-Walla River 13 
 
 Linkton's Mill 9 
 
 Mountain House 12 
 
 Phillips 13 
 
 Willow Creek 11 
 
 Hcndershott's 16 
 
 Uniontown 6 
 
 Pyles 6 
 
 Quitcley's 12 
 
 Bouldock's 13 
 
 Illinois 16 
 
 Express Ranch 12 
 
 Stout and Moody's 14 
 
 Miller's 16 
 
 Olds's Ferry 6 
 
 Weiser River 15 
 
 Galena 20 
 
 Payette Ranch IS 
 
 Burners'*. 15 
 
 Scharinr's 12 
 
 Placerville _16 
 
 " 262 
 
 Placerville to Ceatreville 4>; 
 
 Placerville to Idaho City 18 
 
 Placerville to Pioneer City ® 
 
 [daho City to Boise City. »» 
 
 Boise <iiy to Owyhee 68 
 
 Boise City to South Boise §0 
 
 Idaho City (by trail) to South Boise 52 
 
 Stages run regularly to all tho above-named 
 places, except South Boise. 
 
Wash'ton Territory. 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 
 
 [Seattlk. 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 
 
 Washington Territory, formerly a part 
 of Oregon, occupies the extreme northwest 
 corner of the domain of the United States. 
 Its greatest extent is about 600 miles from 
 east to west, and 200 from north to south, 
 comprising abou,t 70,000 square miles. 
 On the north, it is separated from British 
 America by the Straits of Juan del Fuca. 
 The Rocky Mountains lie on its eastern 
 boundary, Oregon on the south, and the 
 Pacific Ocean on the west. The general 
 appearance of this region is very similar 
 to that of Oregon — traversed, as both 
 countries are, by the same mountain- 
 ranges and rivers. The Columbia trav- 
 erses the Territory, dividing it into un- 
 equal parts, and separating it from Ore- 
 gon on the south. Mount Olympus, the 
 chief peak here of the Coast Range, is 
 8,197 feet high, covered, like most of the 
 summits of the region, with perpetual 
 snows. Mount St. Helen's, one of the 
 spurs of the Cascade Range, has an ele- 
 vation of 12,000 feet ; and Mount Rai- 
 nier, on the same chain, rises 13,000 feet, 
 Mounts Adams and Baker are other grand 
 peaks of the Cascade Range. This range, 
 which crosses the Territory from north 
 to south 100 miles from the coast, is a 
 continuation of the Sierra Nevada. It is 
 from 40 to 60 miles wide at its base, and 
 has an average elevation of 6,000 feet. 
 Spurs of the Rocky Mountains are scat- 
 tered through the eastern portion of 
 Washington Territory. The chief source 
 of wealth to the people of the Territory 
 at present is in the utilization of their 
 immense forests of fir, and spruce, and 
 cedar, though by-and-by, as the land be- 
 comes settled by the extension of the 
 Northern Pacific Railway across the Ter- 
 ritory, it will be made productive by agri- 
 cultural industry, especially in the cul- 
 ture of grass and raising of live-stock. 
 
 Mammoth trees, like those of California 
 and Oregon, are found also in this region. 
 The wilds of Washington Territory abound 
 in elk, deer, and other game. Wild-fowl, 
 also, of many varieties, are plentiful ; and 
 in no part of the world are there liner fish 
 
 than may be caught here. The rivers of 
 Washington are rapid mountain-streams, 
 replete with picturesque beauty in bold, 
 rocky cliffs and precipices, and in charm- 
 ing cascades. 
 
 The population of Washington Terri- 
 tory in 1860 was 11,594 ; in 1870, 23,901. 
 The total valuation of real and personal 
 estate is given by the census of 1870 as 
 $10,187,815, against $4,394,735 in 1860. 
 At present there are no completed rail- 
 roads in the Territory. Settlers are mov- 
 ing in very rapidly. 
 
 The readiest route to Washington from 
 Oregon, which should be first visited, is 
 by steamer down the Willamette and 
 Columbia Rivers, 50 miles, and up the 
 Cowlitz, two miles, to Monticello. Thence 
 stage-wagons, twice a week, perform the 
 service — not always a very agreeable one 
 — of transporting the traveller to Olym- 
 pia, 40 miles. Between Monticello and 
 Olympia are seen some of the grandest 
 woods on the continent. "Here," says a 
 traveller, " is the forest primeval, thick 
 with slender pine, fir, hemlock, spruce, 
 cedar, and arbor-vitoe, the trunks gloved 
 in moss of orange-green, the branches 
 hung with brown Spanish moss, the 
 ground white, yellow, and purple, with 
 luxuriant .flowers." 
 
 Olympia, the capital of the Terri- 
 tory, is a small town situated at the head 
 of navigation of Puget Sound, on the east 
 side of Tenalquet's River. It is reached 
 by stage from Monticello, and by steamer 
 from Victoria, Vancouver's Island. (Sc.. 
 Route XIV. of California, page 289.) 
 
 Steiiacoom, the capital of Pierce 
 County, is near the head of Puget Sound, 
 16 miles by land from Olympia. 
 
 Seattle is on the eastern shore of 
 Puget Sound, and is the site of the " Ter- 
 ritorial University," for which handsome 
 buildings were erected by means of an 
 appropriation of $75,000 by Congress. It 
 has been fixed upon provisionally as the 
 307 
 
TOUT TOWNSEND.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [VlCTOUIA. 
 
 main terminus of the Northern Pacific 
 Railroad, aud if so, will become in time a 
 great city. 
 
 Port Townsentl, a flourishing 
 town on the bay of the same name in 
 Pugct Sound, for which this town is the 
 port of entry, has a good harbor, of suffi- 
 cient depth for ocean-steamers. It con- 
 tains a United States Custom-House and 
 a United States Marine Hospital. 
 
 Walla- Walla, the capital of the 
 county of the same name, is situated 
 on Mill Creek, in the midst of a beauti- 
 ful and rich agricultural district. It is 
 reached by stages regularly running from 
 Wallula. 
 
 WflaatcoEM, a small town on the 
 western shore of Bellingham Bay, is the 
 principal shipping-port of Bellingham Bay 
 coal-mines. 
 
 The other principal towns and settle- 
 ments of the Territory are Nesqually, 
 New York, and New Dungeness, on Pu- 
 get's Sound and Admiralty Inlet ; Pacific 
 City, Catalamet, Port Vancouver, Monti- 
 cello, and Cascade City, on the Columbia 
 River; Wabassport and Cowlitz Farms, 
 on the Cowlitz River ; and Penn's Cove, 
 on Whidby's Island. 
 
 The easiest and most comfortable way 
 to see the different towns and points of 
 interest in the Territory is to take steam- 
 er from Portland down Puget Sound. (See 
 Route XIV. of California, page 288.) 
 This is one of the loveliest sheets of water 
 on the continent. It has 1,400 miles of 
 navigation, and is bounded by pine-forests 
 and snow-capped mountains. Hundreds 
 of islands dot its shining surface, while its 
 clear depths are almost transparent. The 
 
 mountain-views from the sound will de- 
 light the tourist. Lumber constitutes 
 the basis of trade and business carried 
 on at the different towns and villages on 
 these waters. The trade in this article 
 exceeds a million dollars annually. Every 
 settlement has its saw-mill, some of them 
 of large size and capacity. There is 
 abundance of fish, and coal is found and 
 exported in large quantities. The Indians 
 on Whidby's Island and in the neighbor- 
 hood of Seattle (see page 307) will attract 
 the traveller's attention. They belong to 
 the Skagit tribe. 
 
 From the north end of Puget Sound 
 the traveller can cross the Straits of Fuca 
 and visit the British possessions upon 
 Vancouver's Island. 
 
 The population of the island is between 
 8,000 and 10,000, four-fifths of which re- 
 side in the pleasant, prosperous little city 
 of Victoria. The climate of Vancouver 
 is genial and healthful. Delicious fruits 
 and the most fragrant flowers grow in 
 abundance on the island. 
 
 TTIcitoyia, the capital of the British 
 colony of Vancouver Island, is situated 
 on the southeast end of that island. It 
 was originally the depot of the Hudson 
 Bay Company. It is well built, of brick 
 and stone, and wears a cheerful, attrac- 
 tive appearance. The Government House 
 and the Goi'emor's Mansion are worth 
 visiting. (See Route XIV. of Califor- 
 nia, page 289.) 
 
 San Juan, the island about which 
 there was such a long controversy be- 
 tween the United States and Great Brit- 
 ain, lies just off the coast of Washington 
 Territory. 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 Alaska is the newest accession to the 
 territory of the United States, and, 
 though it is not likely to prove very in- 
 viting t( > travellers, a brief sketch seems 
 necessary to complete the Hand-Hook. 
 
 From its discovery by Behring, in 
 1741, till October 8, 18(57, Alaska be- 
 longed to Russia, and was known as 
 308 
 
 Russian America. On the tatter date it 
 was transferred to the United States, in 
 consideration of the sum of $7,200,000, 
 paid in coin, and now forms one of the 
 Territories. 
 
 I'ii haps no territory of equal extent on 
 the globe (it embraces 450,000 square 
 miles), except Central Africa, is so little 
 
Climate.] 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 [Minerals. 
 
 known ; for, even now, although we have 
 been flooded with books from travellers 
 claiming to have explored this country, 
 the interior is yet an unknown land. 
 The seaboard, and the line of the Yucon, 
 and some other rivers, are the only por- 
 tions of the Territory we know any thing 
 of. And, because of the popular igno- 
 rance on the subject, much scope has 
 been given to mere invention ; and while, 
 on the one hand, the country has been 
 decried as the " fag-end of creation," on 
 the other hand it has been overpraised. 
 Imagination has been made to supply the 
 place of knowledge, and even poetry has 
 been lugged in to picture the supposed 
 savage desolation of the land, and the 
 imagined rigor of the climate. Now, in 
 the interior of Alaska, the climate is 
 doubtless very severe, and the trappers 
 and gold-miners of the Stachine River 
 report that on the main-land the snow 
 reaches a fabulous depth, and does not 
 disappear until nearly the end of the 
 summer ; but, in all that part of Alaska 
 and British Columbia which borders on 
 the ocean, and extends from Behring 
 Straits to the Straits of Fuca, the climate 
 is wonderfully soft and mild for the lati- 
 tude — so much so, indeed, that the tem- 
 perature in the winter-time is said to be 
 about that of Washington City. 
 
 The great drawback to the climate is 
 the rain, which falls almost incessantly 
 during nine months of the year. The 
 average fall of rain for eighteen years 
 past has reached the astonishing figure 
 of 86 inches. Of course, vegetables and 
 grains cannot be grown in a soil of such 
 excessive moisture, but the forests pro- 
 duce some of the best timber on the con- 
 tinent; the plains between the moun- 
 tains, as well as the sides of the moun- 
 tains themselves, are covered with forests 
 so dark aud dense as to be impenetrable 
 except to wild beasts and savage hunts- 
 men. On the lowest ground the cotton- 
 wood grows. The birch-tree sometimes 
 appears upon the river-sides, but the for- 
 ests of Alaska consist mainly of the pine, 
 the cedar, the cypress, the spruce, the 
 fir, the larch, and the hemlock. These 
 forests begin almost at the water's edge, 
 and they rise with regular gradations to 
 a height of two thousand feet. According 
 to Mr. Seward, the native grasses pre- 
 
 serve their nutritive properties, and the 
 climate is so mild that cattle and horses 
 require but slight provision of shelter 
 during the winter. There is also reason 
 to believe that, beyond the Coast Range 
 of mountains, there is an extension of 
 the rich and habitable valley-lands of 
 Oregon and Washington Territory. The 
 animal productions of the forests are 
 abundant, the elk and deer being so nu 
 merous as to be undervalued for food 
 or skins by both natives and strangers. 
 The bear, of many families — black, 
 grizzly, and cinnamon — the mountain- 
 sheep, the wolf, the fox, the beaver, the 
 otter, the mink, the raccoon, the marten, 
 the ermine, and the squirrel, are among 
 the land fur-bearing animals. The fur- 
 bearing seals are found most numer- 
 ously on St. Paul's and St. George's Isl- 
 ands. 
 
 As to the mineral wealth, so eloquently 
 insisted upon by both Mr. Sumner and 
 Mr. Seward, it has not yet revealed itself. 
 Gold has been discovered on the Stachine 
 River, and the mines have been worked 
 to some extent. Copper is said to have 
 been discovered on the Copper River, 
 and copper utensils were in use among 
 the natives as far back as the time of 
 Behring. Silver, iron, and bismuth, are 
 also said to exist, though where, it is yet 
 reserved for explorers to find out. Of 
 coal there is an abundant supply on 
 Admiralty Island, on Kootznoo, and at 
 Cook's Inlet. Its fur-trade is all that 
 has ever made Alaska commercially im- 
 portant, and the value of this has been 
 decreasing rapidly since the country 
 came under the sway of the United 
 States. 
 
 Alaska, as we have said, is not likely 
 ever to be much frequented by travel- 
 lers, yet one now and then finds his way 
 there, and the following description of 
 the voyage from Victoria, on Vancouver's 
 Island, to Sitka, is from the pen of a late 
 sight-seer : 
 
 " Let us suppose the Highlands of the 
 Hudson River (with which we nearly all 
 are familiar) to be stretched out, as it 
 were, for nine hundred miles. We won't 
 widen the river at all, but we will in- 
 crease the height of the hills from four- 
 teen hundred to three thousand, seven 
 
 309 
 
Sitka.] 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 [Sitka. 
 
 thousand, and, in some cases, ten thou- 
 sand feet. We will cover the peaks of 
 the mountains with snow, and the rest 
 with dense forests of timber, except 
 where the mountain-streams come tum- 
 bling down in great water-falls of fifty 
 feet or more, and frequently fall over a 
 huge cliif directly into the sea, near 
 which our vessel passes. As we go far- 
 ther north, imagine great valleys filled 
 with enormous glaciers, or sheets of ice, 
 from one to ten miles wide, and extend- 
 ing back miles into the interior. These 
 huge masses of ice, sometimes twelve 
 hundred feet thick, are of a blue Alpine 
 hue, and, when the bright sunlight falls 
 upon them, their gleaming surface, rich 
 with prismatic color, presents an incon- 
 ceivably magnificent sight. 
 
 " Now, if the reader can gather any 
 thing from this imperfect description, he 
 has in his mind's eye the scenery of Alas- 
 ka. For miles and miles our steamer jour- 
 neys along through this wilderness, amid 
 these mountains ' wooded to the peak.' 
 From base to.snowy region, nothing mars 
 the uniformity — a dense, dark forest of 
 pines and hemlock, through whose wilds 
 the foot even of the savage has never 
 wandered ! The eye fairly wearies of the 
 endless monotony and death-like stillness 
 of these primeval forests, and seeks for 
 more peaceful landscapes; but in vain. 
 Nothing disturbs the dreary loneliness 
 of this wonderful forest-land, except the 
 splash of the paddles, as the steamer 
 speeds softly on her way, the shrill note 
 of the eagle, as he circles over some lofty 
 cliff, or the howl of the wolf amid the re- 
 cesses of the forest." 
 
 Siilca, the scat of government, is 
 really the only point in Alaska where the 
 United States is able to exercise more 
 than a nominal authority. It has a 
 population of about 1,500, of whom 
 1,000 are Indians, and is, beyond doubt, 
 the dirtiest and most squalid collection 
 of log-houses on the Pacific slope. 
 On the right of the town, looking at it 
 from the anchorage, stand the build- 
 ings formerly belonging to the fur com- 
 pany, the citadel being on a rocky cmi- 
 310 
 
 nencc ; farther on, the houses of the citi- 
 zens ; finally, the church and hospital. 
 On the left of the town, outside of the 
 stockade, is the Indian village of about 
 sixty huts ; still farther to the left, a col- 
 lection of Indian graves. 
 
 The Russian governor's house, or the 
 citadel, now occupied by the command- 
 ing officer of the military district, is the 
 only building in Sitka, except the church, 
 that deserves any special mention. It is 
 perched on Katalan's Rock, and is a huge 
 structure of two stories in height, but 
 very long and broad, roofed with sheet- 
 iron, painted red, and capped by the only 
 light-house in Alaska, which, at night, 
 casts a feeble glimmer three or four milea 
 seaward. The summit of the hill is de- 
 fended by batteries which command 
 every point in the harbor. The north- 
 west end is approached by a flight of 
 wooden steps, and half-way up sentinels 
 are kept posted day and night ; at this 
 point is a sort of military prison, in front 
 of which is displayed a light battery of 
 brass cannon, loaded with canister, and 
 ready for any emergency. The upper 
 story of the building is divided into one 
 large room in the centre, flanked by 
 drawing-room and billiard-room at one 
 end, and another large room at the other, 
 all well kept, painted in nice style, and 
 hung with old prints of celebrated Eng- 
 lish sea-fights. The lower story contains 
 dining-room, parlor, study, and sleeping- 
 apartments, all very large, and furnished 
 with the inevitable Russian stove, or fur- 
 nace. The entire structure is built of huge 
 logs, squared, joined, and painted. The In- 
 dians are never allowed inside the stock- 
 ade after nightfall, while a guard is kept 
 constantly on the alert with rifles loaded, 
 and a field-battery of Parrott guns kept 
 constantly trained on the Indian village, 
 adjoining the town, and a man-of-war 
 lies anchored in the harbor, with her 
 guns pointed at the Sitka village. 
 
 Since the American occupation, much 
 has been done toward improving Sitka. 
 Among other tilings, an Anglo-RuBSi&n 
 newspaper has been started, and prom- 
 ises to be a successful enterprise. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Carriage-Koad to Yosemi- 
 
 te. — During the past summer (of 1873) 
 a new route was opened to the valley, 
 which permits stages to run to its very 
 verge just above Bridal-Veil Falls. It 
 commences at Hazel Green, the old ter- 
 minus of the stage-line by the Coulter- 
 ville route, is only eighteen miles long, 
 and, by hugging the sides and bottom 
 of the Merced Canon, avoids all difficult 
 grades — the heaviest being less than 
 fifteen feet to the hundred. The road 
 has been located with special refer- 
 ence to placing it below the permanent 
 snow-line of the Sierras ; and thus access 
 will be had to the valley in winter as 
 well as in summer — a matter of great im- 
 portance, for the reason that the scenery 
 is regarded as grander in winter than at 
 any other time of the year. The whole 
 distance from Merced, the nearest station 
 on the Visalia division of the Central 
 Pacific Railroad, is only 88 miles, and by 
 making an early start the trip may be 
 accomplished in a single day. 
 
 This new route is a great improvement 
 in point of convenience upon any pre- 
 vious method of reaching Yosemite. 
 Thousands of people, especially ladies, 
 have been deterred from visiting the 
 valley by the hard ride of 40 miles on 
 horseback ; but as stages now run over 
 a good carriage-road from the end of 
 the railway to the hotels in the valley, 
 the number of those who will flock to 
 this most wonderful chasm in the world 
 will doubtless be increased a hundred- 
 fold. 
 
 The road is available by both the 
 Coulterville and Chinese Camp, two of 
 the three main routes to Yosemite ; and 
 a new grove of gigantic trees has been 
 discovered directly on its route. 
 
 A New Yosemite. — It ia 
 claimed by the California newspapers that 
 a new and grander Yosemite than that 
 heretofore known to the world has lately 
 been discovered. It was penetrated late in 
 the fall of 1872 by Galen Clark, State 
 Guardian of the Great Valley, and John 
 Muir, an enthusiastic and devoted geolo- 
 gist, botanist, and mountain explorer. It 
 is situated in the Tuolumne River Canon, 
 17 miles north of the Yosemite. The main 
 Tuolumne River, which is a much wider 
 stream than the Merced, runs through 
 the great Tuolumne Canon. This canon 
 and its connections have an unbroken 
 length of 40 miles. For 20 miles of this 
 distauce the canon is shut in by vertical 
 walls of granite, some of which are from 
 two to five hundred feet higher than the 
 very highest in the Yosemite Valley. 
 The Tuolumne Canon or Yosemite, at its 
 widest part, is only a quarter of a mile 
 wide, while the Merced-Yosemite Valley 
 is from half a mile to a mile and a quar- 
 ter wide. The falls in the latter surpass 
 those of the Tuolumne Canon in unbroken 
 volumes of falling water; but in endless 
 variety of cascades and water-shoots the 
 Tuolumne Canon is much the grandest. 
 There is one water-leap, 1,000 feet high, in 
 the latter. One of its water-falls spreads 
 out at first like a great fan of silvery- 
 threaded water; but, after a descent in 
 311 
 
AITENDIX. 
 
 this shape of iibont 200 feet, it is whirled 
 over, closed up, changed in color, and 
 shot down a narrow groove worn in the 
 rocks like an arrow of steam. There 
 arc a greater display and variety of water- 
 hues, tints, motions, and expressions, in 
 the Tuolumne Canon than in the Yo- 
 semite. 
 
 Lake Tulaoe. — An English trav- 
 eller who has lately made the trans-conti- 
 nental tour writes as follows of the trip to 
 Lake Tahoe : " The road from Truckec to 
 Lake Tahoe follows the Truckee River al- 
 most the entire distance. There is hardly 
 a more beautiful drive in all California. At 
 one moment you are by the side of the 
 river, dark, deep, and moving on in a 
 silent mass; a turn of the road, and the 
 waters are torn and twisted and eddying 
 and foaming, as with an agony of pas- 
 sion. Again your ear catches a distant 
 roar, and after a time you come to a spot 
 where the hand of man has erected a 
 
 barrier, over which the waters fall in one 
 solid plunge, while the blockaded stream 
 above rests in a sullen captivity. On 
 either side of the river's bank rise the 
 mountains of the Sierras, from under 
 whose everlasting snows constantly 
 stream down the thousand rivulets that 
 feed the main river. We have no space 
 to describe the ever-changing, exquisite 
 scenery of this road. After fifteen miles 
 of enjoyment, spite of the discomfort of 
 compressed animation, the stage crosses 
 a bridge, turns a corner, and Lake Tahoe 
 is before us." 
 
 A new steamer has been placed on 
 the lake, which will greatly increase the 
 attractions of a trip on its waters. It is 
 100 feet long, and can accommodate up- 
 ward of 500 passengers, and is a very 
 different affair from the miserable little 
 craft that travellers have heretofore had 
 to put up with, and which were unsafe, 
 slow, and most uncomfortable. 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 ST. LOUIS TO TEXAS. 
 
 Via Missouri, Kansas & Texas liaihvay. 
 
 Stations. — St. Louis to Sedalia, 188 
 miles; Windsor (connects with daily 
 stages to Warsaw and Springfield), 21 m. 
 from Sedalia: Calhoun, 29; Clinton (eon. 
 nects with daily stages to Brownington, 
 Osceola, Humansville, and Bolivar), 40; 
 Montrose (connects with daily stages to 
 Germantown and Johnstown), 53 ; Apple- 
 ton City (connects with dailv stage to 
 Butler), 59; Rockville, 67; Schell City, 
 72 ; Walker's, 83 ; Nevada (connects with 
 daily stages to Montevallo, Virgin City, 
 Stockton, Lamar, Avola, Greenfield, 
 Granby, Golden City, Springfield, Bolivar, 
 and Cartliage), 90 ; Fort Scott (connects 
 with Missouri River, Fort Scott & Gulf 
 Railway), 111; Marmaton, 118; Walnut, 
 137; Osage Mission, 145; Parsons (con- 
 nects with Neosho Division; also with 
 stages for Independence, Elk City, and 
 Elk Falls), 150; Labette, 161; Oswego, 
 170; Chetopa, 182; Blue Jacket, 199; 
 Viuita, 211; Choteau, 245; Gibson, 267; 
 Muscogee (connects with mail-stages for 
 812 
 
 Fort Smith, Van Buren, etc.), 276 ; Oke- 
 taha, 290; North Forktown, 307; South 
 Canadian, 320; Reams, 328; McAllister, 
 336; Limestone Gap, 363; Atoka, 380 ; 
 Caddo (connects with stage for Fort Sill), 
 400; Durant, 412; Colbert, 424; Dcnison 
 (connects with Houston k Texas Central 
 Railway, for all points in Texas; also 
 with stages to Paris, Bonham, Clark sville, 
 etc.), 432 ; Waco, 674 ; Houston, 772 ; 
 Galveston, 822 ; Austin, 837. 
 
 The completion of the Missouri, Kan- 
 sas & Texas Railway opens another grand 
 through-route between the West and the 
 South, and brings the cattle-growing dis- 
 tricts of Texas within three or four days' 
 distance of the Northern markets. It is 
 this w'hich gives the road its importance, 
 and except for this it presents little of 
 interest to the tourist, traversing as it 
 docs a region which is for the most 
 part unsettled, barren, and destitute of 
 picturesque features. From St. Louis to 
 Sedalia the road has already been de- 
 scribed as part of Ropte XVII. [see page 
 86), and from Dcnison to Galveston, 
 Houston, and intermediate points, it is 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 fully described in the Handbook of 
 Travel — Southern Tour. At Fort Scott 
 it enters Kansas, and at Chetopa the In- 
 dian Territory, which it crosses in nearly 
 a straight line from north to south. If 
 the traveller desires to explore the great 
 
 Indian reservations, this is the road which 
 he should take, as it carries him direct- 
 ly into their midst ; otherwise he will 
 have but little to claim his attention in 
 the long journey of nearly a thousand 
 miles. 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 How to reaela Yellowstone 
 
 Park. — Until the completion of the 
 Northern Pacific Railway to its vicinity, 
 the trip to the Yellowstone is too difficult 
 to be made by any save the hardiest and 
 most enterprising tourists. The easiest 
 way to reach the Park at present is to 
 take the Northern Pacific Railway to its 
 terminus, from which a long and tedious 
 but delightful horseback ride among the 
 settlements along the Upper Missouri will 
 bring the traveller to Fort Ellis. Fort 
 Ellis is a frontier military post, just on 
 
 the verge of the Yellowstone Valley, 
 and is the virtual starting-point for 
 all who would behold the wonderful re- 
 gion beyond. Here guides may be se- 
 cured, a camp equipage, pack-mules, 
 and all the requirements of the Yellow- 
 stone tour. 
 
 The best time to visit the Park is from 
 the first of July to the end of September. 
 At any other season the traveller is liable 
 to be overtaken by the snow, in which 
 case his trip would prove dangerous as 
 well as uncomfortable. 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 Slaoslaoiae Falls. — The following 
 description of these falls, from Clarence 
 King's " Mountaineering in the Sierra 
 Nevada," is the best that has yet been 
 given, and supplements that to be found 
 in the body of the Guide : " In plan the 
 fall recurves up-stream in a deep horse- 
 shoe, resembling the outline of Niagara. 
 The total breadth is about Y00 feet, and 
 the greatest height of the single fall 
 about 190. Among the islands above the 
 brink are several beautiful cascades, 
 where portions of the river pour over in 
 lace-like forms. The whole mass of the 
 cataract is one ever-varying sheet of 
 spray. In the early spring, when swollen 
 by the rapidly-melted snows, the river 
 pours over with something like the grand 
 volume of Niagara, but, at the time of 
 my visit, it was wholly white foam. 
 Here and there along the brink the un- 
 derlying rock shows through, and among 
 the islands shallow green pools disclose 
 the forms of the underlying trachyte. 
 Numberless rough shelves break the fall, 
 14 
 
 but the volume is so great that they are 
 only discovered by the glancing outward 
 of the foam. The river below the falls 
 is very deep. The right bank sinks into 
 the water in a clear, sharp precipice, but 
 on the left side a narrow, pebbly beach 
 extends along the foot of the clifi". From 
 the top of the wall, at a point a quarter 
 of a mile below the falls, a stream has 
 gradually worn a little stairway : thick 
 growths of evergreens have huddled to- 
 gether in this ravine. The trachytes are 
 very curiously worn in vertical forms. 
 Here and there an obelisk, either wholly 
 or half detached from the canon-wall, 
 juts out like a buttress. Farther down, 
 these projecting masses stand like a row 
 of columns upon the left bank ; above 
 them, a solid capping of black lava 
 reaches out to the edge, and overhangs 
 the river in abrupt black precipices. 
 
 "Under the influence of the cool 
 shadow of cliffs and pine, and constant 
 percolating of surface-waters, a rare fer- 
 tility is developed in the ravines opening 
 313 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 upon the cauon-shore. A luxuriance of 
 ferns and mosses, an almost tropical 
 wealth of green leaves and velvety car- 
 peting, line the banks. There are no 
 rocks at the base of the fall. The sheet 
 of foam plunges almost vertically into a 
 dark, beryl-green, lake-like expanse of 
 river. Immense volumes of foam roll up 
 from the cataract base, and, whirling 
 about in the eddying winds, rise often a 
 thousand feet in the air. When the wind 
 blows down the canon, a gray mist ob- 
 scures the river for half a mile; and, 
 when, as is usually the case, the breezes 
 blow eastward, the foam-cloud curls over 
 the brink of the fall, and hangs like a 
 vapor over the upper river. Incessant 
 roar, reenforced by a thousand echoes, 
 lills the canon. Out of this monotone, 
 from time to time, rise strange, wild 
 3U 
 
 sounds, and now and then may be heard 
 a slow, measured beat, not unlike the 
 recurring fall of breakers. From the 
 white front of the cataract the eye con- 
 stantly wanders up to the black, frown- 
 ing parapet of lava. Angular bastions 
 rise sharply from the general level of the 
 wall, and here and there isolated blocks, 
 profiling upon their sky-line, strikingly 
 recall barbette batteries. The whole edge 
 of the canon is deeply cleft in vertical 
 crevasses. The actual brink is usually 
 formed of irregular blocks and prisms 
 of lava, poised upon their ends in an 
 unstable equilibrium, ready to be tum- 
 bled over at the first leverage of the 
 frost. Hardly an hour passes without 
 the sudden boom of one of those rock- 
 masses falling upon the ragged debris- 
 piles below." 
 
INDEX. 
 
 WESTEKN TOUR. 
 
 Abilene, Kas., 91. 
 
 Ackley, Io., 205. 
 
 Adriau, Mich., 20. 
 
 Akron, O., 29. 
 
 Alabaster Cave, Cal., 117 
 
 Albion, Mich., 6. 
 
 Albany, Ogn., 286. 
 
 Albia, Io., 80. 
 
 Alexandria, Mo., 1G2. 
 
 Algona, Io., 206. 
 
 Alkali, Neb., 99. 
 
 Allegan, Mich., 211. 
 
 Alliance, 0., 23. 
 
 Almaden Quicksilver Mines, 
 
 Cal., 279. 
 Alton Junction, 111., 59. 
 Altamont, Md., 67. 
 Alton, 111., 162. 
 Amanda, O., 1S3. 
 Anderson, Ind., 58. 
 Angeles Island, Cal., 267. 
 Ann Arbor, Mich., 5. 
 Anoka, Minn., 226. 
 Antioch, Cal., 290. 
 Antwerp, O., 83. 
 Antelope, Neb., 100. 
 Appleton, Wis., 219. 
 Areata, Cal., 287. 
 Arched Rock, Mich., 140. 
 Argcnta, New, 115. 
 Arrow Rock, Mo., 176. 
 Ashland, Ky., 167. 
 Ashland, O., 30. 
 Ashland, Io., 82. 
 Ashland. Neb.. 240. 
 Ashley, 111., 195, 202. 
 Ashtabula, O., 17. 
 Aspen, U. T., 100. 
 Astoria, Ogn., 288. 
 Atchison, Kas., 177. 
 Athens, O.. 71. 
 Atlanta, 111., 197. 
 Atlantic City, Wy., 106. 
 Attica, Ind., 84. 
 Auburn, Cal., 117. 
 Auburn, 111., 197. 
 Augusta, Ky., 168. 
 Austin City, Nev., 262. 
 Austin, Minn., 206. 
 Aurora, Ind., 59. 
 Aurora, 111., 79. 
 
 Bad Axe, Wis., 160. 
 
 Bald Eagle Lake, Minn., 156. 
 
 Baltimore, Md., 62. 
 
 Bannack, Mon., 251. 
 
 Bartlett Springs, Cal., 274. 
 
 Battle Creek, Mich., 6. 
 
 Battle Mountain, Nov., 115. 
 
 Baxter Springs, Kas., 235. 
 
 Bayard, O., Is3. 
 
 Bay City, Mich., 210. 
 
 Bayfield, Wis., 149. 
 
 Bear River, U. T., 10' 
 
 Beatrice, Neb., 240. 
 
 Beaver, Pa., 165. 
 
 Bedford, Ind., 191. 
 
 Bellair, O., 70. 
 
 Bellefontaine, O., 58. 
 
 Belle He, Mich., 4, 138. 
 
 Belleville, O., 184. 
 
 Bellevue, Io., 161. 
 
 Bellevue, Neb., 178. 
 
 Belmont, O., 70. 
 
 Belmont, Ky., 163. 
 
 Beloit, Wis., 199. 
 
 Belpre, O., 71. 
 
 Belvidere, 111., 193. 
 
 Benicia, Cal., 268. 
 
 Benwood, W. Va., 70. 
 
 Bethalto, HI., 59. 
 
 Big Bone Lick Creek, Ky., 169. 
 
 Big Sandy River, 167. 
 
 Big Spring, Neb., 100. 
 
 Big Trees of Calaveras, Cal., 
 
 290. 
 Big Trees of Mariposa, Cal., 293. 
 Big Trees of Missouri, 228. 
 Big Trees of Tuolumne, 299. 
 Bitter Creek, Wy., 104. 
 Blair, Neb., 239. 
 Black Bay, 152. 
 Black Hawk, Col.T., 242. 
 Black Buttes, Wy., 104. 
 Blanchester, O., 71. 
 Blennerhassefs Island, O., 166. 
 Bloomington, 111., 196. 
 Bloomington, Ind., 191. 
 Blue River, Ind.. 186. 
 Bluff City, 111., 85. 
 Boisee or Boise City, Idaho, 
 
 253. 
 Boone, Io., 73. 
 
 Boone ville, Mo., 176. 
 Boscobel, Wis., 217. 
 Bower Cave, Cal., 299. 
 Brandenburg, Ky., 170. 
 Bradford Junction, O., 28. 
 Brady Island, Neb.. 99. 
 Brainerd, Minn., 227. 
 Brazil. Ind., 45. 
 Breckenridge, Minn., 226. 
 Breedsville, Mich., 212. 
 Bridgeport, O., 166. 
 Brighton, Cal., 119. 
 Brighton, 111., 197. 
 Bristol, Ind., 21. 
 British Landing, Mich.. 141. 
 Brookfield Junction, Wis., 216. 
 Brooklield, Mo., 86. 
 Brookfield, Wis, 217. 
 Brookvitle, Ind., 1 J '. 
 Brookville, Kas., 92. 
 Brownsville, M'nn., 160. 
 Brown ville, Neb., 178. 
 Brunswick, Mo., 76. 
 Bryan, O., 21. 
 Bryan, Wy., 105. 
 Bucyrus, O., 24. 
 Bunker Hill, 111., 59. 
 Bunker Hill, Ind., 28, 186. 
 Bureau, 111., 76. 
 Burlingame, Kas., 236. 
 Burlington, Io., 79. 
 Burlington, Kas., 236. 
 Burlington. O., 167. 
 Burnett, Wis., 218. 
 Bushnell, 111., 197. 
 BushnelL, Ind., 81. 
 Butler, Ind., 21. 
 
 Cadiz, O., 26. 
 Cadiz Junction, 25. 
 Cairo, 111., 172. 
 Caledonia, HI., 172. 
 Caledonia, O., 30. 
 California, Mo., SS. 
 Calistoga, Cal., 269. 
 Calmar, Io., 206. 
 Calumet, HI., 195. 
 Camanche, lo., 73, 161. 
 Cambridge, (.)., 70. 
 Cambridge Citv, Ind., 43, 187. 
 Camden, O., Is7. 
 
 315 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cameron, Mo., 86. 
 Camp Douglas, U. T., 112. 
 Camp Point, 111., 19S. 
 Camp Stambaugh, Wy», IOC. 
 Cannelton, Ind., 170. " 
 Canon City, CoL T., 242. 
 Canon City, Ogn., 306. 
 Canton, Mo., 162. 
 Canton, 111., 81. 
 Canton, 0., 23. 
 Capeau Oris, II!., 102. 
 Cape Girardeau, Mo., 172. 
 Cape Horn, Cal., 117. 
 Carbon, Wy, 103. 
 Carbondale, 111., 195. 
 Cardington, O., Is4. 
 Carey, O., 1S2. 
 Caribou Island, 152. 
 Carlin, New, 114. 
 Carlin\-ille,Ill., 197. 
 Carlyle, 111.. 60. 
 Carquinez, Straits of, 263. 
 Carrollton, Kv., 169. 
 Carter, U. T, 106. 
 Cascade Eange, Cal., 305. 
 Caseyville, 111., 60. 
 Caseyville, Ky., 171. 
 Castalia, O., 132. 
 Castle Rock, U. T., 107. 
 Cassville, Wis., 160. 
 Catlettsburg, Ky, 167. 
 Cave in Rock, 111., 171. 
 Cedar Falls, Io., 205. 
 Cedar Rapids, Io., 73. 
 Centralis, 111., 195. 
 Central City, Col. T., 242. 
 Centreville, Ind., 42. 
 Centreville, Minn., 153. 
 Champaign, 111., 195. 
 Chariton River, Mo., 176. 
 Chariton, Io., 80. 
 Charles City, Io., 204. 
 Charleston, 111., 53. 
 Charlotte, Mich., 211. 
 Chawamegon Bay, 149. 
 Cheat River, 67. 
 Chenoa, 111., 81. 
 Cherokee, Io., 205. 
 Chester, 111., 173. 
 Chetopa, Kas., 237. 
 Cheyenne, Wy., 94, 101. 
 ( Ihlcago, 111., 6. 
 Chieo, Cal., 234. 
 Chillicothe, Mo., SO. 
 Chillicothe, O., 71. 
 Church Buttes, U. T., 106. 
 Cincinnati, O, 81. 
 Clrcleville, 0.,1S8. 
 Clarksburg, W. Va., 70. 
 Clay City, 111., 60. 
 ( llayton, Cal., 275. 
 Clayton, Io., 160. 
 ClaysvUle, W. Va.. TO. 
 Clear Lake, (VI., 271. 
 Cleveland, O., 17,137. 
 Clifton, III., 195. 
 
 Climax, Mich.. 211. 
 Clinton, Io., "3, 161. 
 Clinton, Mo., 281. 
 
 < lUnton, Wis., 218. 
 
 < lloverport, Ky., 170. 
 i lyde, O., 182. 
 Coldwater, Mich., 21. 
 
 31ft 
 
 Colfax, Cal., 117. 
 Colfax, Ind., 183. 
 Colorado City, Col. T., 242. 
 Colorado Mining Districts, 242. 
 Colorado, Territory of, 241. 
 Columbia River, Ogn., 233. 304. 
 Columbia, Ind., 24. 
 Columbus, Ind., 189. 
 Columbus, Io., 204. 
 Columbus, Kas., 234. 
 Columbus, Neb., 93. 
 Columbus, O., 26. 
 Columbus, Wis., 217. 
 Commerce, Mo., 172. 
 Como, Wy., 103. 
 Conneaut, O, 17. 
 Connersvillo, Ind., 187. 
 Congress Springs, Cal., 282. 
 Copper Harbor, Mich., 148. 
 Copperopolis, Cal., 300. 
 Cornice Rocks, 172. 
 Coshocton, O., 26. 
 Council Bluffs, Io., 74. 
 Council Grove, Kas., 236. 
 Covington, Ind., 191. 
 Cranberry Summit, W. Va., 67. 
 Crawfordsville, Ind., 191. 
 Crescent City, Cal., 288. 
 Crestline, O., 24. 
 Creston, Io., 80. 
 Creston, Wy., 104. 
 Crow Wing, Minn., 220. 
 Crystal Lake, 111., 199. 
 Cumberland, Md., 66. 
 Cuyahoga River, 17. 
 
 Dakota, Territory of, 240. 
 
 Dalles City, Ogn., 305. 
 
 Dalles of the St. Louis, The, 153. 
 
 Dalles of ihe Wisconsin, 214. 
 
 Danville, Ind., 84, 53. . 
 
 Davenport, Io., 77. 
 
 Dayton, O., 30. 
 
 Dearborn, Mich., 5. 
 
 Decatur, 111., S4. 
 
 Decota, Cal., 120. 
 
 Defiance, O., S3. 
 
 Delaware, O., 1S4. 
 
 Delphi, Ind., 83. 
 
 Delphos, O., 24. 
 
 Des Moines, Io., 78. 
 
 Denison, Io., 74. 
 
 Denver, Col., 92. 
 
 Des Plaines River, 194. 
 
 Detroit, Mich., 2. 
 
 Detroit River, 137. 
 
 Devil's-gate Station, U. T., 103. 
 
 Devil's Kitchen, The, Mich., 141. 
 
 Devil's Slide, U. T, 108. 
 
 Devil's Tea-table, 172. 
 
 Dixon, III., 72. 
 
 Donahue, Cal., 273. 
 
 Donner Lake, Cal., 110. 
 
 Dresden, «>., 26. 
 
 Dubuque, Io., 161. 
 
 Dxluth, Minn., 149. 
 
 Dunlap, I".. 7 I. 
 
 Dunkirk, N. Y., 137. 
 
 Dunleith, III., 161. 
 
 Dunleith. II!., 161, 198. 
 
 Dwight, 111., 196. 
 
 Eagle Harbor, Mich., 148. 
 
 Eagle River, 143. 
 
 East Burlington, 111.. 79. 
 
 East Canon City, TJ.'T, 256. 
 
 East Hannibal, 111., 85. 
 
 East Leavenworth, Mo., 235. 
 
 East Saginaw, Mich., 210. 
 
 East St. Louis, 46. 
 
 Eaton, O., 187. 
 
 Eau Claire, Wis., 217. 
 
 Echo Cation, U. T., 107. 
 
 Echo City, IT. T., 103. 
 
 Economy, Pa., 165. 
 
 Edinburg, Ind., 189. 
 
 Edgerton, O., 21. 
 
 Edgewood, III., 195. 
 
 EOingham, 111., 4-5, 195. 
 
 Elizabethtown, 111.. 171. 
 
 Elkhart. Ind., 21. 22. 
 
 Elkhorn, Neb., 96. 
 
 Elkhorn, Wis., 220. 
 
 Elko, New. 114. 
 
 Ellicott's Mills, Md., 02. 
 
 Ellis, Cal., 120. 
 
 Ellsworth, Kas., 92. 
 
 Elm Creek, Neb., 93. 
 
 Elyria, O., 19. 
 
 Klvsvillc, Md.. 62. 
 
 El Paso, 111., 81. 
 
 Emporia, Kas., 230. 
 
 Encampment River and Island, 
 
 Minn., 151. 
 Erie, Pa., 137. 
 Escanaba, Mich., 220. 
 Eugene City, Ogn., 230. 
 Eureka, Cal., 287. 
 Evans, Col., 93. 
 Evanston, 111., 15. 
 Evanston, U. T., 107. 
 Evanston, Wy. T.. 243. 
 Evansville, Md., 171. 
 
 Fairfield, Io., SO. 
 Fairland, Md., 1S8. 
 Fairmont, W. Va., 09. 
 Falls City, Neb., 240. 
 Faribault, Minn., 223. 
 Farley, Io., 205. 
 Farmington, Io., 82. 
 Farralone Islands. 13 i. 
 Feather River, Cal., 280. 
 Fetterman, W. Va., 6s. 
 Findlay, O., 182. 
 Flint, Mich., 210. 
 Florence, Neb., 173. 
 Florin, Col. 119. 
 Fonddu Lac, Wis., 219. 
 Fontana, Kas.. 284. 
 Forest, <>.. 24, 1S2. 
 Formosa, Mo., 176. 
 Foi-iiii i kiii bjzti. Wis 214. 
 Fort Benton, Neb., 17s. 
 Fort Dodge, lo.. 205. 
 Fort Gratiot, Mich., 139. 
 
 Fort Ilarker. Kas.. 92. 
 Fort I lavs, Kas.. 92. 
 Fort Howard, Wis.. 219. 
 Fort Leavenworth. Kas., 177 
 Fort Madison. Io.. 162, 
 Fort Mackinaw, Mich., 140. 
 Fort Point, Cal., !■'!."). 
 
 Port Riley, Kas., 91. 
 Fort Sanders, Wy.. 102. 
 Fort Scott, Kas., 232. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Fort Snelling, Minn., 156. 
 Fort St. Clair, Mich., 139. 
 Fort Wallace, Kas., 92. 
 Fort Wayne, Ind., 24. 
 Fort Wayne, Mich., 4, 137. 
 Fort William, Can., 151. 
 Fountain City, Wis., 159. 
 Fox River, 194. 
 Frankfort, Ind., 188. 
 Frankfort. O., 71. 
 Franklin, Ind., 1S9. 
 Frederick City, Md., 63. 
 Frederick Junction, Md., 03. 
 Freeport, 111., 198. 
 Fremont, Neb., 97, 239. 
 Frontenae, Minn., 159. 
 Fulton, 111.. 73. 
 
 Galena, 111., 161, 193. . 
 
 Galesbnrg, 111., 79. 
 
 Galion, O., 30. 
 
 Gallipolis, O., 167. 
 
 Gait, Cal., 119. 
 
 Galva, 111., 79. 
 
 Garden River Settlement, 142. 
 
 Garnitt, Kas., 235. 
 
 Gasconade, Mo., 87. 
 
 Gasconade River, 229. 
 
 Geneseo, IU., 76. 
 
 Geneva, 111., 72. 
 
 Georgetown, Col. T., 242. 
 
 Germantown, Wis., 218. 
 
 Gilman, 111., 81, 195. 
 
 Gilmore. Neb., 96. 
 
 Gilroy, Cal., 280. 
 
 Girard, Kas., 234. 
 
 Glasgow Mo., 176. 
 
 Glenwood, lo., 80. 
 
 Godfrev, 111., 197. 
 
 Golconda, 111., 171. 
 
 Golconda, Nev., 115. 
 
 Golden City, Col. T., 242. 
 
 Golden Gate, 134. 
 
 Goshen, Ind., 22. 
 
 Gosport, Ind., 191. 
 
 Grafton, O., 58. 
 
 Grafton, W. Va., 68, 70. 
 
 Grandfather Bull Falls, Mich., 
 
 214. 
 Grand Haven, Mich., 209. 
 Grand Island, 145. 
 Grand Island, Neb., 98. 
 Grand Portage. Minn., 151. 
 Grand Rapids, Mich., 209. 
 Grand River, Mo., 176. 
 Grand Tower, 111., 172. 
 Granger, U. T.. 106. 
 Grave Creek, W. Va., 166. 
 Great American Desert, U. T., 
 
 113. 
 Great Falls of the Missouri, The, 
 
 174. 
 Great Geyser Springs, Cal., 271. 
 Great Kanawha River, 167. 
 Great Mariposa Tract, Cal., 293. 
 Great Miami River, 16S, 181. 
 Great Salt Lake, U. T., 113. 
 Great Salt Lake City, U. T., 
 
 109. 
 Greeley, Col. T., 93. 
 Greenup, Ind., 45. 
 Qreen Bay, Wis., 219. 
 
 Green Bay City, Wis., 219. 
 Green River, Ky., 171. 
 Green River Station, Wy., 104. 
 Greensburg, Ind., 183 t . 
 Greencastle, Ind., 41, 58. 
 Greenfield, O., 71. 
 Greenfield, Ind., 42. 
 Greenville, Ind., 46. 
 Greenville, Mich., 210. 
 Greenville, O., 42. 
 Greenupsburg, Ky., 167. 
 GriunelL, lo., 78. 
 Grosse Isle, Mich., 4. 
 Grosse Pointe, Mich., 4. 
 Guttenberg, lo., 160. 
 Guyandotte, W. Va., 167. 
 
 Hagerstown, Ind., 187. 
 Hamilton, Mo., 86. 
 Hamilton City, Nov., 203. 
 Hamilton, O., 81. 
 Hamden, O., 71. 
 Hancock, Mich., 147. 
 Hanging Rock, O., 167. 
 Hannibal, Mo., 85. 
 Harlem, 111., 15. 
 Harper's Ferry, W. Va., 64. 
 Harvard, 111., i99. 
 Hastings, Minn., 153. 
 Hawesville, Ky., 171. 
 Hayward's, Cal., 276. 
 Hazard, Wy., 101. 
 Healdsburg, Cal., 271. 
 Herculaneum, Mo., 173. 
 Helena, Mon., 250. 
 Hermann, Mo., 87. 
 Henderson, Ky., 171. 
 Hillsboro', IU., 59. 
 Hillsdale, Mich., 21. 
 Hillsdale, Wy., 100. 
 Highland, 111., 46. 
 High Sierra Mts., Cal., 301. 
 Hocking River, 180. 
 Hocktown, Cal., 2S7. 
 Houghton, Mich., 14G. 
 Holden, Mo., 88. 
 Homewood, Pa., 23. 
 Hopkins, Mo., 231. 
 Horicon, Wis., 218. 
 Hornitos, Cal., 293. 
 Holly, Mich., 208. 
 Hot Springs, U. T., 255. 
 Hot Springs Valley, Nev., 115. 
 Hudson, Mich., 21. 
 Hudson, O., 183. 
 Hudson, Wis., 219. 
 Humboldt, Kas., 236. 
 Humboldt Lake, Nev., 261. 
 Humboldt Valley, Nev., 114. 
 Humboldt Wells, Nev., 113. 
 Hunter's Point Cal., 134. 
 Huntingdon, Ind., 83. 
 
 Idaho City, Idaho, 254. 
 Idaho Soda Springs, 245. 
 Idaho, Territory of, 252. 
 Idlewild Cave, Nev., 264. 
 He la Peche, 138. 
 Illinois, 192. 
 Illinois River, 193. 
 Independence, Mo., 88. 
 Indianapolis, Ind., 43. 
 Indiana, State of, 185. 
 
 Iola, Kas., 236. 
 Ionia, Mich., 209. 
 Iowa City, lo., 78. 
 Iowa, State of, 202. 
 Ironton, O., 167. 
 Isle Royal, Mich., 151. 
 
 Jackson, Mich., 5. 
 Jacksonville, 111., 85. 
 Jacksonville, Ogn., 285. 
 Jefferson City, Mo., SS. 
 Jefl'ersonville, Ind., 169. 
 Joliet, 111., 75. 
 Jonesboro, 111., 196. 
 Jonesville, Mich., 21. 
 Julesburg, Neb., 100. 
 Junction, Cal., 118. 
 Junction City, Kas., 91. 
 Junction, 111., 72. 
 
 Kaskaskia, 111., 173. 
 Kalamazoo, Mich., 6. 
 Kandivohi, Minn., 225 
 Kankakee, 111., 195. 
 Kansas City, Mo., 89. 
 Kansas River, 177, 233. 
 Kansas, State of, 232. 
 Kearney, Neb., 98. 
 Kearneysville, W. Va., 65. 
 Keithsburg, 111., 161. 
 Kelseyville, Cal., 274. 
 Kelton, U".«T., 113. 
 Kendallville, Ind., 22. 
 Kenosha, Wis., 199. 
 Kenton, O., 1S2. 
 Kentucky River, 169. 
 Keokuk, lo., 82, 162. 
 Keweenaw Point, 14S. 
 Kickapoo City, Kas., 177. 
 Kinmunday, 111., 195. 
 Kirkwood, Mo., 87. 
 Kit Carson, Col. T., 92. 
 Knightstown, Ind., 42. 
 Knobnoster, Mo., 83. 
 Kokoino, Ind., 187. 
 
 Lac la Belle, 148. 
 La Clede, Mo., 86. 
 La Crescent, Minn., 160. 
 La Croix, Ind., 191. 
 La Crosse, Ind., 29, 191. 
 La Crosse, Wis., 160. 
 Lafayette, Ind., 84. 
 Lagro, Ind., 83. 
 Lake City, Minn., 157. 
 Lake Como, Minn., 156. 
 Lake Erie, 136. 
 Lake Forest, 111., 15. 
 Lake George, Mich., 142. 
 Lake Huron, 139. 
 Lakes of Minnesota, 222. 
 Lake Pepin, 159. 
 Lake St. Clair, 13S. 
 Lake St. Croix, 227. 
 Lake Superior, 143. 
 Lake Tahoe, Cal., 117. 
 Lake View, IU., 15. 
 Lakeport, Cal., 274. 
 La Mine River, Mo., 176. 
 Lancaster, O., 183. 
 Lansing, lo., 160. 
 La Pointe, Wis., 149. 
 
 317 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Laporte, Ind., 22, 1S9. 
 Laramie, Wy., 102. 
 Lathrop, Cal., 119. 
 Lathrop, Mo., 231. 
 Lawrence, Kas., 90. 
 Lawrenceburg, lad., 59, 163. 
 Lawton, Midi., 6. 
 Laurel, Ind., 1ST. 
 Leavenworth, Kas., 177. 
 Leavenworth, Ind., 170. 
 Leavittsburg, O., 29. 
 Lebanon, 111., 60. 
 Lebanon, Ind., 183. 
 Le Clair, Io., 161. 
 Lee's Summit, Mo., 83. 
 Leroy, Kas., 236. 
 Les Cygncs, Kas., 234. 
 Lewiston, Idaho, 251. 
 Lexington, Mo., 231, 176. 
 Lexington, O., 71. 
 Liberty, Ind., 1S3. 
 Liberty Landing, Mo., 176. 
 Ligonier, Ind., 22. 
 Lima, O., 24. 
 Lime Island, 142. 
 Lincoln, 111., 197. 
 Lincoln, Neb., 239 
 Litchfield, III., 59. 
 Little Miami Kiver, 163, 130. 
 Little Platte Kiver, Io , 177 
 Littleton, TV. Va., 69. 
 Lockport, III., 196. 
 Loda, 111., 195. 
 Logan, O., 184. 
 Logansport, Ind., 23. 
 London, O., 41. 
 LondonviUe, O., 24. 
 Lone Tree, Neb., 98. 
 Los Angeles, Cal., 281. 
 Louisiana, Mo., 162. 
 Louisville, Ky., 169. 
 Loveland, O., 41, 72. 
 Lover's Leap, The, Mich., 141. 
 Lower Lake, Cal., 274. 
 Lyons, Io., 161. 
 
 Mackinaw Island, Mich., 140. 
 Macomb, 111., 198. 
 Macon, Mo., 86. 
 Madison, Ind., 169. 
 Madison, Wis., 199, 216. 
 Magnetic Spring, Mich., 207. 
 
 ••laiden Rock, Wis., 159. 
 
 takanda. 111., 196. 
 
 laiden, Can., 137. 
 Alamainse Point, Can., 152 . 
 Manchester, Io., 205. 
 Manchester, O., 163. 
 Manhattan, Kas., 91. 
 Manltou Island, 148. 
 Mankato, Minn., 224. 
 Mannington, W. Va. 69 
 Mansfield, < >., -i t. 
 Mare Island, Cal.. 203. 
 Marietta, O., 166. 
 Marion, O., 80. 
 
 Mariposa Pig Trees, Cal., 293. 
 -Mariposa, Cal., 298. 
 
 Marquette Iron Region, Tho. 
 145. ' 
 
 Marquette, Midi., 146. 
 Marriottsville, Md., 62. 
 
 318 
 
 Marshall, Ind., 45. 
 
 Marshall, Io., 73. 
 
 Marshall, Mich., 6. 
 
 Martinsburg, W. Va., 65. 
 
 Martinsville, Ind., 191. 
 
 Marysville Puttes, Cal., 2S3. 
 
 Marysville, Cal., 233. 
 
 Maryville, Mo., 231. 
 
 Mason City, Io., 206. 
 
 Massillon, O., 24. 
 
 Matlin, TJ. T., 113. 
 
 Mattteon, 111., 195. 
 
 Mattoon, 111., 59. 
 
 Maumee City, O., 83. 
 
 Maumee Piver, 181, 186. 
 
 Ma}'sville, Ky., 163. 
 
 McGregor, Io., 160. 
 
 McPherson, Neb., 99. 
 
 Medora, Ind., 60. 
 
 Medicine Pow, Wy., 103. 
 
 Meeting of the Waters, 111., 163. 
 
 Mendota, 111., 79. 
 
 Mendota, Minn., 223. 
 
 Mendocino Citv, Cal., 287. 
 
 Menomonec, Wis., 217, 219. 
 
 Metropolis City, 111., 172. 
 
 Michigan, Lake, 207. 
 
 Michigan City, Ind., 6, 191. 
 
 Michigan, State of, 206. 
 
 Michipicotin Harbor and River, 
 152. 
 
 Michipicotin Island, Can., 152. 
 
 Middfeville, Mich., 211. 
 
 Milford, O., 23, 41. 
 
 Milton, Cal., 290. 
 
 Milton Junction, Wis., 216. 
 
 Milwaukee Piver, 215. 
 
 Milwaukee, Wis., 215. 
 
 Minneapolis, Minn., 224. 
 
 Minnehaha Falls, Minn., 156. 
 Minneiski, Wis., 159. 
 Minnesota River, 222. 
 Minnesota, State of, 221. 
 Minnesota, Wis., 213. 
 Mishawaka, Ind., 22. 
 Mission Dolores, Cal., 134. 
 Mission San Jose, Cal., 276. 
 Mississippi River, 156. 
 Missouri River, The, 173. 
 Missouri, State of, 227. 
 Missouri Valley Junction, 74. 
 Mitchell, Ind., 60, 191. 
 Mokelumne Hill, Cal., 119, 301. 
 Moleen, Nov., 114. 
 Moline, 111., 76. 
 Mono, Io., 204. 
 Monee, III., 195. 
 Monmouth, 111., 79. 
 Monroe, Mich., 209. 
 Monroe, Mo., 85. 
 Montana, Territory of, 248. 
 Monterey, Cal., 282. 
 Montrose, Io., 162. 
 Moorhead, Minn., 227. 
 Morris, III., 75. 
 Morris, Ind., 188. 
 Mormonism and the Mormons 
 
 257. 
 Morrow, O., 41. 
 Mound Citv, III., 172. 
 Mounds, 111., 196. 
 Moundsville. W. Va., 69. 
 Mountain Island. 100. 
 
 Mount Airy, Md., 62. 
 Mount Diablo, Cal., 275. 
 Mount St. Helena, Cal., 270. 
 Mount Pleasant, Io., 80. 
 Mount Shasta, or Tehasta, Cal, 
 
 2S4. 
 Mount^Tamalpais, Cal., 275. 
 Mount Uncle Sam, Cal., 274. 
 Mount Vernon, Ind., 171. 
 Monroeville, O., 184. 
 Mount Clemens, Mich., 209. 
 Mount Vernon, 111., 202. 
 Mount Vernon, O., 184. 
 Mud Lake, 142. 
 Muncie, Ind., 58. 
 Munising, 145. 
 Muscatine, Io., 161. 
 Muskegon, Mich., 211. 
 Muskingum River, 180. 
 
 Napa Creek, Cal., 208. 
 
 Napierville, 111., 79. 
 
 Naples, 111., 85. 
 
 Napoleon, O., 83. 
 
 Natural Caves and Pridges, Cal.. 
 
 290. 
 Nauvoo City, III., 162. 
 Ncbish Rapids, 142. 
 Nebraska City, Neb., 239. 
 Nebraska, State of, 237. 
 Neepigon Pay, 152. 
 Negaunee, 145. 
 Nelsonville, O., 184. 
 Neosho Falls, Kas., 236. 
 New Albany, Ind., 170. 
 Newark, O., 26. 
 New Puffalo, Mich., 6. 
 Newburg, O., 1S3. 
 Newburg, W. Va., 6S. 
 Newcastle, Ind., 1S7. 
 New Chicago, Kas., 237. 
 New Lexington, O., 183. 
 New Philadelphia, O., 1S3. 
 New Richmond, O., 168. 
 Newton, Io., 78. 
 New Westminster, R. C, 289. ' 
 Nevada, Mo., 231. 
 Nevada Silver Mines, 261. 
 Nevada, State of, 260. 
 Nicolaus, Cal., 287. 
 Niles, Cat., 120. 
 Niles, Mich., 6. 
 Niobrara River, 23S. 
 Noblesville, Ind., 1S9. 
 Nodaway City, Mo., 178. 
 Normal, III., 196. 
 North Pend, Neb., 97. 
 North Pend, O., 168. 
 North Mountain, W. Va. 65 
 North Platte, Neb, 99. 
 North Shore of Lake Superior. 
 
 150. 
 North Topcka, Kas., 286. 
 North Vernon, Ind., 00, ISO. 
 Norwalk, o., 19. 
 
 Oakland, Cal., 120. 
 Oakland, Md., 67. 
 Oberlin, O., 19. 
 <Min. III.. 60, 195. 
 O'Fallnn Station, Neb., 99. 
 Ogallala, Neb., 99. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Ogden, Kas., 01. 
 Ogden, U. T., 109. 
 Ohio Kiver, The, 161. 
 Ohio, State of, 1T9. 
 Olathe, Kas., 234. 
 Old Jefferson, Mo., 1T6. 
 Old Mission, Cal., 230. 
 Olney, IU., 60. 
 Olympia, W. T., 30T. 
 Omaha, Neb., 95. 
 Onarga, 111., 195. 
 Ontonagon, Mich., 118. 
 Oquawka, 111., 161. 
 Orangeville, O., 29. 
 Oregon, 303. 
 Oregon City, Ogn., 286. 
 Oroville, Cal., 284. 
 OrviUe, O, 24. 
 Osage Kiver, 229. 
 Osceola, Io., 80. 
 Osceola, Minn., 227. 
 Oshkosh, Wis., 219. 
 Oskaloosa, Io., 82. 
 Oswego, Kas., 23T. 
 Ottawa, Kas., 235. 
 Ottawa, 111., 75. 
 Ottuinwa, Io., 80. 
 Owatonna, Minn., 223. 
 Owensborough, Ky., 171. 
 Owosso, Mich., 203. 
 Oxford, O., 31. 
 
 Pacheco, Cal., 275. 
 
 Pacific, Mo., 87. 
 
 Packville, Mo., 177. 
 
 Paducah, Ky., 171. 
 
 PainesviUe, O., 17. 
 
 Palisade, Nev., 114. 
 
 Palisades, The, Minn., 151. 
 
 Palmyra, Mo., 85. 
 
 Pana, IU., 59. 
 
 Paola, Kas., 234. 
 
 Papillon Station, Neb., 96. 
 
 Paris, 111., 58. 
 
 Paris, Mich., 211. 
 
 Parkersburg, W. Va., 70. 
 
 Parks of Colorado, 243. 
 
 Parkville, Mo., 235. 
 
 Parma, Mich., 5. 
 
 Paso Kobles Hot Springs, Cal., 
 
 280. 
 Patagannissing Bay, 141. 
 Patterson's Creek, Md., 66. 
 Pawnee City, Neb., 239. 
 Paxton, 111., 195. 
 Pekin, HI., 201. 
 Pendleton, Ind., 58. 
 Peoria, 111., 81. 
 Pequop, Nev., 113. 
 Percy, Wy., 103. 
 Peru, Ind., 83. 
 Pescadcro, Cal., 2S3. 
 Petaluma, Cal., 273. 
 Petenwell Peak, "Wis., 214. 
 Petrified Forest, Cal., 270. 
 Petroleum, W. Va., 70. 
 Fhelan's Lake, Minn., 156. 
 Pictured Pvocks, The, 111. 
 Piedmont, IT. T., 106. 
 Piedmont, W. Va., 6T. 
 Pie Island, Can., 151. 
 Pigeon Eiver, 151. 
 Pine Bluffs, Neb., 100. 
 
 Piqua, O., 28. 
 
 Pittsburg, Pa., 25. 
 
 Pleasant Hill, Mo., 83. 
 
 Pleasanton, Kas., 234. 
 
 Plainfield, Ind., 44. 
 
 Platte Kiver and Valley, Neb., 
 
 238. 
 Platts'mouth, Neb., 240. 
 Plum Creek, Neb., 98. 
 Plymouth, Ind., 25. 
 Point Douglas, Minn., 158. 
 Point du Tour, Mich., 141. 
 Point Edward, Ont., 139. 
 Point Ignaee, Mich., 140. 
 Point Pleasant, 0, 163. 
 Point Pleasant, W. Va., 167. 
 Point of Eocks, Md., 63. 
 Point of Eocks, Wy., 104. 
 Point St Quentin, Cal., 207. 
 Pomeroy, O., 166. 
 Pontiac, 111., 196. 
 Pontiac, Mich., 208. 
 Pond Creek, IU., 76. 
 Pope Valley Quicksilver Mines, 
 
 Cal., 269. 
 Porcupine Mountain, 148. 
 Portage City, Wis., 217. 
 Portage Entry, 146. 
 Portage Lake, 147. 
 Portage Lake Ship-Canal, 147. 
 Port Huron, Mich., 139. 
 Portland, Ky., 170. 
 Portland, Mich., 210. 
 Portland, Ogn., 2S8. 
 Portsmouth, Mich., 210. 
 Portsmouth, O., 167. 
 Port Townsend, W. T., 307. 
 Potter, Neb., 100. 
 Potosi, Wis., 100. 
 Prairie du Chien, Wis., 160. 
 Prescott, Kas., 234. 
 Prescott, Wis., 158. 
 Presidio, The, Cal., 135. 
 Princeton, IU., 79. 
 Princeton, Ind., 192. 
 Promontory Point, U. T., 112. 
 Prout's, O., 184. 
 Providence, Mo., 176. 
 Puda, 111., 79. 
 Puget Sound, 288. 
 Put-in-bay Islands, 5, 137. 
 Pyramid Lake, Nov., 261. 
 
 Quincy, IU., 162. 
 
 Eacine, Wis., 214. 
 
 Eamsey, Minn., 224. 
 
 Eandolph, Mo., 176. 
 
 Eavenna, O., 29. 
 
 Bawling, Wy., 103. 
 
 Bed Bluff, Cal., 284. 
 
 Bed Buttes, Wy., 102. 
 
 Bed Desert, Wy., 104. 
 
 Eed Oak, Io., 80. 
 
 Bedwood City, Cal.. 277. 
 
 Eed Wing, Minn., 159. 
 
 Eeed's Landing, Minn., 159. 
 
 Beefing Creek, Md., 65. 
 
 Eeese Eiver Mining District, 
 
 Nev., 262. 
 Beno, Nev., 116. 
 Bepublican Eiver, 238. 
 Beynolds, Ind., 81, 191. 
 
 Eichmond, Ind., 42. 
 Eichmond, Mo., 231. 
 Eidgeway, Mich., 209. 
 Eipley, O., 168. 
 Eising Sun, Ind., 169. 
 Biverside, 111., 15. 
 Eobinson's FoUy, Mich., 141. 
 Eocheport, Mo., 176. 
 Eochester,' Ind., 189. 
 Eochester, Minn., 224. 
 Eochester, Pa., 23, 183. 
 Bock Bluff, Neb., 178. 
 Bock Creek, Wy., 103. 
 Bockford, 111., 198. 
 Eock Island, IU., 76. 
 Eocklin, Cal., 118. 
 Bockport, Ind., 171. 
 Bock Eiver, IU., 193. 
 Eock Springs, Wy., 104. 
 Eockville, Ind., 192. 
 Bocky Mountains, Tours to the^ 
 
 244. 
 Borne, O., 168. 
 Borne, Ind., 170. 
 Borneo, Mich., 212. 
 Bound Island, 141. 
 Eulo, Neb., 239. 
 Bush Lake, Wis., 213. 
 EushviUe, Ind., 188. 
 
 Sacramento, Cal., 268. 
 Sacramento Biver, Cal., 268. 
 Saginaw City, Mich., 210 
 Sangamon Biver, 194. 
 Saint Clair, Mich., 138. 
 Saint Joseph's Island, 141. 
 Saint Mary's Eiver, 141. 
 Salem, O., 23. 
 Salem, Ogn., 286. . 
 Salina, Kas., 92. 
 Salt Lake VaUoy, Great, 251. 
 Salt Mountain, U. T., 255. 
 Salt Springs, Wy., 104. 
 Sandoval, 111., 60. 
 Sandusky, O., 182. 
 Sauk Eapids, Minn., 226. 
 San Bernardino, Cal., 2S1. 
 San Diego, Cal., 2S1. 
 San Francisco Bay, Cal., 207 
 San Francisco, Cal., 121. 
 San Joaquin Eiver, 2S9. 
 San Josii, Cal., 277. 
 San Luis Obispo. Cal., 2S0. 
 San Pablo Bay, Cal., 267. 
 San Eafael, Cal., 267, 275. 
 Santa Barbara, Cal., 280. 
 Santa Clara, Cal., 277. 
 Santa Clara VaUey, Cal., 27S. 
 Santa Cruz, Cal., 232. 
 Santa Eosa, Cal., 273. 
 Sarnia, Ont., 139. 
 Saucelito, Cal., 267. 
 Saut St. Marie, Mich., 112. 
 Savannah, IU., 161. 
 Savannah, Mo., 231. 
 Scioto Eiver, 180. 
 Schuyler, Neb., 97. 
 Schwartzburg, Wis., 21S. 
 Seal Eock, Cal., 134. 
 Seattle, W. T.. 307. 
 SndaUa, Mo., 88. 
 Seigler Springs, Cal., 274. 
 Seymour, Ind., 60, 190. 
 319 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Shasta, Cal., 285. 
 Shawneetown, 111., 171. 
 Sheboygan, Wis., 221. 
 Shelbina, Mo., 86. 
 Shelby, O., 58. 
 Shelby Junction, 1S4. 
 Shelb'yville, 111., 59. 
 SlscibVville, Ind., 1S3. 
 Sheridan, Kas., 92. 
 Sherman, Wy., K>1. 
 Shoshone Falls, Great, 253. 
 Sibley, Mo., 176. 
 Sidney, Neb., 100. 
 Sidney, O., 58. 
 Silver Cieek, Neb., 98. 
 Sinking; Creek, Ky., 170. 
 Sioux City, Io., 178, 205. 
 Sitka, Alaska, 310. 
 Skagg's Springs, Cal., 272. 
 Slate Islands, 152. 
 Smithland, Ky., 171. 
 Snake or Shoshone lliver, 251. 
 Snelling, Cal., 293. 
 Solomon City, Kas., 91. 
 South Bend, Ind., 22. 
 South Charleston, O., 41. 
 South Haven, Mich., 212. 
 South Pass City, Wy., 106. 
 Soda Springs, Napa, Cal., 269. 
 Sparta, Wis., 217. 
 Spencer, Ind., 191. 
 Springfield, 111., 84. 
 Springfield, O., 30. 
 St. Anthony, Falls of, 225. 
 St. Anthony, Minn., 225. 
 St. Charles, Mo., 176. 
 St. Clair Flats Ship-Canal, 138. 
 St. Clair River, 13S. 
 St. Cloud, Minn., 226. 
 St Croix Falls, 227. 
 St. Genevieve, Mo., 173. 
 St. George, Kas., 91. 
 St. George, U. T., 255. 
 St. Helena, Cal., 269. 
 St. Helen's, Ogn., 306. 
 St. James, .Minn., 225. 
 St. John's Run, Md., 65. 
 St. Joseph, Mich., 212. 
 St. Joseph, Mo., 86. 
 St. Louis (East), 46. 
 St. Louis, Mo., 46. 
 St. Louis River, 214. 
 St. Mary's Mission, Kas., 90. 
 Bt. Mary's Ship-Canal, 142. 
 St. Mary's, Wy., 103. 
 St. Paul, Minn., 154. 
 St. Peter, Minn., 224. 
 State Line. Ind-, 81. 
 Steilacoom, W. T., 307. 
 Ste. Ignaco Island, 152. 
 Ste. Marie Rapids, 142. 
 Sterling, 111., 72. 
 Stcubeiivillc, O., 25. 
 Stillwater, Minn., 227. 
 Stockton, Cal., 119. 
 Stone House, Nev., 115. 
 Strait of Mackinaw, 139. 
 Bturgis, Mich., 21. 
 Summit Siding, Col. T., 94. 
 Summit station, Cal., 117. 
 Sun Prairie, Wis.. 217. 
 Superior ( itv. Wis., 149. 
 
 Sugar Island', 1 12. 
 
 320 
 
 Sugar Loaf, The, Mich., 141. 
 Suisun, Bay of, 268. 
 Suscal, Cal., 269. 
 Sutro Tunnel, The, 202. 
 Sutherland, Out, 139. 
 Sweetwater Mining Region, 
 Wy., 105. 
 
 Table Rock, Wy., 104. 
 Tamaroa, 111., 195. 
 Temperance River, Minn., 151. 
 Terre Haute, Ind., 45. 
 Thayer, Kas., 236. 
 Thebes, 111., 172. 
 Thornton, Ind., 18S. 
 Thunder Bay, 152. 
 Tiffin, O., 1S2. 
 Tippecanoe, O., 181. 
 Tippecanoe River, ISO. 
 Tip-Top, Io., 74. 
 Tipton, Mo., 88. 
 Toano, Nov., 113. 
 
 Toledo, O., 19. 
 
 Tolono, 111., 84, 195. 
 
 Tomah, Wis., 217. 
 
 Tonquamenon Bay, 143. 
 
 Topeka, Kas., 90. 
 
 Treasure City, Nev., £63. 
 
 Trenton, 111., 60. 
 
 Trempeleau, Wis., 160. 
 
 Troy, O., 181. 
 
 Truckee, Cal., 116. 
 
 Tuolumne Big Trees, Cal., 299. 
 
 Tuscola, 111., 195. 
 
 Twelve Apostles 1 Islands, The, 
 148. 
 
 Tipton, Ind., 1S9. 
 
 Uintah, IT. T., 103. 
 Umatilla, Ogn., 306. 
 Uncle Sam, Mount, Cal., 274. 
 Union City, Ind., 28. 
 Union, O. and Ind.. 53. 
 Uniontown, Ky., 171. 
 Urbana, O., 28. 
 Utah Territory, 254. 
 
 Vallejo, Cal., 269. 
 Valley, Neb., 97. 
 Valley Junction, O., 187. 
 Valparaiso, Ind., 25. 
 Vancouver, W. T., 239. 
 Vandalia, Ind., 45. 
 Van Wert, O., 24. 
 Vermilion, D. T., 2-11. 
 Vevay, Ind., 169. 
 Victoria, B. O, 308. 
 Villa Ridge, 111., 196. 
 Vincennes, Ind., 60. 
 Vinton, Io., 204. 
 Virginia City, Mon., 252. 
 Virginia City, Nev., 202. 
 Virginia Mining District, Nev. 
 202. 
 
 Wabashaw, Minn., 159. 
 
 Wabash, Ind., S3. 
 Wabash River, 171, 1S6. 
 Wadsworth, Nev., 115. 
 Walska Bay, 143. 
 
 Walla-Walla, W. T., 303. 
 Wamego, Kas., 91. 
 Wnnatah, Ind., 25. 191. 
 Wapa City, Cal., 269. 
 Wapakoneta, O., 181. 
 Wapello, Io., 204. 
 Warm Springs, Cal.. 276. 
 Warm Springs, U. T., 255. 
 Warren, O., 29. 
 Warrcnsburg, Mo., 8S. 
 Warsaw, 111., 82. 
 Warsaw, Ind., 24. 
 Warsaw, Ky., 169. 
 Wasatch, U. T., 107. 
 Waseca, Minn., 224. 
 Washakie, Wy., 104. 
 Washington, Ind., 60. 
 Washington, Mo., 87. 
 Washington, O., 1S2. 
 Washington Junction, Md., 62. 
 Washington Territory, 80 1 ! . 
 Waterloo, Ind., 22. 
 Waterloo, Io., 204. 
 Waterloo, Mich., 210. 
 Watertown, Wis., 217. 
 Waukegan, 111., 199. 
 Waukesha, Wis., 216. 
 AVauseon, O., 21. 
 Waverly, Io., 204. 
 Waverly, Mo., 176. 
 Wayne City, Mo., 170. 
 Wells, Nev., 113. 
 Wellsburg, W. Va., 165. 
 Wellsville, O., 165. 
 Weber Canon, U. T.. 109. 
 Weber Station, U. T., 103. 
 Webster, Mo., 87. 
 West Liberty, Io., 7S. 
 West Liberty, O., 182. 
 West Point, "K v., 170. 
 Weston, Mo., 177, 235. 
 Whatcom, W. T., 303. 
 Wheeling, W. Va., 105. 
 White-Bear Lake, Minn., 156. 
 White-Fish Point, 144. 
 White & Hatch's, CaL, 293. 
 White Pigeon, Mich., 21. 
 White Pine Mining District, 
 
 Nev.. 262. 
 White River, 136. 
 White Sulphur Springs, CaL, 
 
 269. 
 Whitehall, Mich., 211. 
 Whitewater, Wis., 216. 
 Willard's Landing, 111., 172. 
 Willamette River, 304. 
 Willamette Valley, 805. 
 Williamsport, Ind., 81. 
 Willoughbv, O., 17. 
 Willow Island, Neb., 99. 
 Wilmington, O., 182. 
 Wilton, io., 78. 
 Winamae, Inch, 29. 
 Winchester, Ind., 53. 
 Winnebago, Lake, 213. 
 Winnebago, Minn., 224. 
 Winneconne, Wis., 218, 
 Winnemucca, Nev., 115. 
 Winona, Minn., 159. 
 Winthrop, Mo.. 28& 
 Wisconsin River, 213. 
 Wisconsin, Btate of. 212. 
 Wood l'.ivtr, Neb., 98. 
 
Woostcr, O., 24. 
 Wyandotte Cave, Ind., 170. 
 Wyandotte, Kas., 89. 
 Wyandotte, Mich., 137. 
 Wymington, 111., 19G. 
 Wyoming, Minn., 153. 
 Wyoming Territory, 24G. 
 Wyoming, Wy., 103. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Xenia, 111., 60. 
 Xenia, O., 41. 
 
 Tankton, D. T., 178, 241. 
 Yellow Creek, O., 183. 
 Yellow Springs, O., 41. 
 Yellowstone Kiver, Scenery of, 
 249. 
 
 Yerba Buena, CaL, 267. 
 Yosemite Valley, CaL, 295. 
 Yountville, CaL, 269. 
 Yreka, CaL, 285. 
 Ypsilanti, Mich., 5. 
 
 Zanesville, 0., 70. 
 
 321 
 
 THE KNO. 
 
3^2 
 
 SOME USEFUL HINTS. 
 
 There are certain things with which every traveller must supply himself before 
 starting on his journey, aud certain facts, a knowledge of which will be useful to him 
 while on his way. For this reason, a little time devoted to an examination of our 
 advertising pages will doubtless be profitably spent. 
 
 The safest and most convenient shape, for instance, into which the traveller can 
 put his money is that of letters of credit, or circular notes, and by turning to the ad- 
 vertisements he will find there the cards of Messrs. Duncan, Sherman & Co., corner 
 of Pine and Nassau Sts., New York ; Morton, Bliss & Co., 30 Broad Street ; Wal- 
 ker, Andrews & Co., 14 Wall Street ; and Jay Cooke, McCulloch & Co., corner of 
 Pine and William Streets. These eminent banking-houses issue " circular notes " 
 and " circular letters of credit " payable in any Western city, and in fact available 
 anywhere in the world. 
 
 C. G. Gunther's Sons, C02 Broadway, have a national reputation in their special 
 line. No house in the country offers such an extensive and comprehensive assort- 
 ment of ladies' and gentlemen's furs — including Russian and American sables ; 
 black, silver, and blue foxes ; Astrakhan and ermine goods ; fur trimmings, and 
 every thing of this kind. Their establishment is well worth a visit. 
 
 Dick's Soft Capsules are decidely the best shape in which the traveller can take 
 such medicines as he is liable to need at any time, especially in this country, where 
 the changes of climate and of water are very likely to cause disorders. They contain 
 genuine medicines, and are not at all unpleasant to take. All drug-stores have them. 
 
 The " New York Belting and Packing Co." represent one of the most curious 
 of American industries. In their ware-rooms may be seen the multitude of uses 
 to which India-rubber is put in modern manufacture. 
 
None but first-class Hotels are invited to advertise in the Hand-Book, and tho 
 fact that they appear there is a guarantee of their character. 
 
 The Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York, is known everywhere as the finest hotel 
 in the country, and one of the pleasantest to put up at. It is admirably located, has 
 all the modern conveniences and improvements, and from its lofty observatory a fine 
 view of the city and surroundings may be had. 
 
 The Hoffman House is also a fine hotel, in the heart of the city. It is conducted 
 on the " European Tlan," and, in addition to its elegantly-furnished rooms, in suite 
 and singly, has an excellent restaurant, where meals may be obtained at all hours. 
 It offers its guests all the modern conveniences and improvements. 
 
 " Tue Windsor." — This Hotel is situated in the very heart of the finest and 
 most exclusive portion of New York City, and is under the supervision of Mr. Samuel 
 Hawk, so well and widely known as the chief of the St. Nicholas Hotel, and Mr. 
 Gardner Wetherbee, of the Revere House, Boston, which is sufficient guarantee. 
 Every thing is elegant and costly, and nothing left undone which could add to the 
 comfort of its guests. 
 
 The Continental Hotel is the leading hotel in Philadelphia, and one of the best 
 in the country. It is a handsome and imposing edifice, in the finest portion of the 
 city, and is furnished most elaborately and tastefully. Travellers stopping at Phila- 
 delphia, on their passage southward, will find this the place to put up at. 
 
 The White Star Line, between Queeustown and Liverpool, carrying the U. S. 
 Mail. — These magnificent steamships have been built expressly for the transatlantic 
 trade, with the view of affording all classes of passengers greatly-increased comfort 
 and accommodation. The ventilation is perfect, and each section is thoroughly 
 warmed. A piano and library are provided, and fresh water is laid on to each state- 
 room. Office of the Company, 1 9 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
HS-i G£fl 
 
 i in 0-11 1 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 -tm 
 
 j- e. Kiiisra-sijiErs- <ss co., 
 
 Propi-iot ors. 
 
betweeust* 
 
 iver 
 
 The six largest Steamships in the World ! 
 
 OCEANIC, BALTIC, REPUBLIC, 
 
 CELTIC, ADRIATIC, G-AELIC. 
 
 6,000 Tons' Burden ; 3,000 Horse-power each. 
 
 * 
 
 These magnificent Steamships have been built especially for the Transatlantic 
 trade, with a view of offering to all classes of passengers greatly-increased comfort 
 and accommodations. 
 
 The midship section of each ship (where least motion is felt) is devoted solely 
 to saloon passengers. This section comprises main saloon, smoking-room, ladies' 
 boudoir, state-rooms, hot and cold baths, etc. A piano and library are provided, 
 in order to render the voyage more enjoyable. Fresh water laid on to each state- 
 room. 
 
 The ventilation is perfect, and each section is thoroughly warmed. Wines, etc., 
 of the best qualities, to be procured on board. 
 
 RATES. 
 
 Saloon, $80, Gold; Excursion, $140, Gold; 
 Steerage, outward, $30 Currency. 
 
 For full particulars, apply at 
 
 "WHITE STAR LINE" 
 
 Offices, 19 Broadway K Y. 
 
 J. II. SPARKS, Agent. 
 
DESCRIPTIVE SOCIOLOGY. 
 
 Mr. Herbert Spencer has been for several years engaged, with the aid of 
 three educated gentlemen in his employ, in collecting and organizing the facts 
 concerning all orders of human societies, which must constitute the data of a true 
 Social Science. He tabulates these facts so as conveniently to admit of ex- 
 tensive comparison, and gives the authorities separately. He divides the races 
 of mankind into three great groups : the savage races, the existing civilizations, 
 and the extinct civilizations, and to each he devotes a series of works. The 
 first installment, 
 
 THE SOCIOLOGICAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND, 
 
 in seven continuous tables, folio, with seventy pages of verifying text, is now 
 ready. This work will be a perfect Cyclopaedia of the facts of Social Science, 
 independent of all theories, and will be invaluable to all interested in social 
 problems. Price, five dollars. This great work is spoken of as follows : 
 
 From the British Quarterly Review. 
 "No words are needed to indicate the immense labor here bestowed, or the great 
 sociological benefit which such a mass of tabulated matter done under such competent 
 direction will confer. The work will constitute an epoch in the science of comparative 
 sociology." 
 
 From tJie Saturday Review. 
 
 "The plan of the ' Descriptive Sociology 1 is new, and the task is one eminently fitted 
 to be dealt with by Mr. Herbert Spencer's faculty of scientific organizing. His object is 
 to examine the natural laws which govern the development of societies, as he has ex- 
 amined in former parts of his system those which govern the development of individual 
 life. Now, it is obvious that the development of societies can be studied only in their 
 history, and that general conclusions which shall hold good beyond the limits of particu- 
 lar societies cannot be safely drawn except from a very wide range of facts. Mr. Spen- 
 cer has therefore conceived the plan of making a preliminary collection, or perhaps we 
 should rather say abstract, of materials which when complete will be a classified epi- 
 tome of universal history." 
 
 From the London Examiner. 
 
 " Of the treatment, in the main, we cannot speak too highly; and we must accept 
 it as a wonderfully successful first attempt to famish the student of social science with 
 data standing toward his conclusions in a relation like that in which accounts of the 
 structures and functions of different types of animals stand to the conclusions of the 
 biologist." 
 
THE INTERNATIONAL 
 SCIENTIFIC SERIES. 
 
 D. Appleton & Co. have the pleasure of announcing that they 
 have made arrangements to issue a comprehensive series of books, 
 under the above title, from eminent men of different countries. 
 Although not specially designed for the instruction of beginners, 
 these works will be adapted to the non-scientific public, and will 
 be, as far as possible, explanatory in character and free from tech- 
 nicalities. The character and scope of the works will be best illus- 
 trated by a reference to the names and subjects in the following 
 list: 
 
 Professor JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D., F.R.S., 
 
 THE FORMS OF WATER IN CLOUDS, RAIN, RIVERS, 
 ICE, AND GLACIERS. (Recently published.) 
 
 WALTER BAGEEOT. 
 
 PHYSICS AND POLITICS. (Recently published.) 
 
 Dr. EDWARD SMITH, F.R.S. 
 
 FOOD AND DIETS. (Recently published.) 
 
 Professor ALEXANDER BAIN, LL.D. 
 
 RELATIONS OF MIND AND BODY (Recently published.) 
 
 HERBERT SPENCER, Esq. 
 
 THE STUDY OF SOCIOLOGY. (Recently published.) 
 
 Professor JOSIAH P. COOKE, Jr. (of Harvard University). 
 THE NEW CHEMISTRY. 
 
 Dr. J. B. PETTIGREW, M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 LOCOMOTION OF ANIMALS. 
 
 Professor BALFOUR STEWART, LL.D., F.R.S. 
 THE CONSERVATION OF ENERGY. 
 
 Dr. W. B. CARPENTER, LL.D., F.R.S. 
 
 THE PRINCIPLES OF MENTAL PHYSIOLOGY. 
 L 
 
International Scientific Series. 
 
 Professor E. J. MAEEY. 
 
 THE ANIMAL MACHINE. 
 
 Professor &HELDOK AMOS. 
 THE SCIENCE OF LAW. 
 
 Professor C. A. YQXJIf & (of Dartmouth College). 
 
 THE SUN. 
 
 Professor T. H. HUXLEY, LL.D., F.R.S. 
 
 BODILY MOTION AND CONSCIOUSNESS. 
 
 Sir JOHN LUBBOCK, Bart, F.R.S. 
 THE ANTIQUITY OF MAN. 
 
 Professor RUDOLPH VTRCHOW (of the University of Berlin). 
 MORBID PHYSIOLOGICAL ACTION. 
 
 Dr. H. CHARLTON BASTIAH, M.S., F.R.S. 
 
 THE BRAIN AS AN ORGAN OF MIND. 
 
 Professor W. THXSELTQN DYER, B.A., B.Sc. 
 
 FORM AND HABIT IN FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 Professor W. KINGDON CLIFFORD, M.A. 
 
 THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF THE EXACT SCIENCES 
 EXPLAINED TO THE NON-MATHEMATICAL. 
 
 Mr. J. H. LOCKYER, F.R.S. 
 SPECTRUM ANALYSIS. 
 
 W. LAUDER LINDSAY, M.D., F.R.S.E. 
 
 MIND IN THE LOWER ANIMALS. 
 Professor A. C. RAMSAY, LL.D., F.R.S. 
 
 EARTH SCULPTURE: Hills, Valleys, Mountains, Plains, Rivers, 
 Lakes; how they were produced, and how they have been destroyed. 
 
 Dr. HEHRY MAUDSLEY. 
 
 RESPONSIBILITY IN DISEASE. 
 
 Professor MICHAEL FOSTER, M.D. 
 
 PROTOPLASM AND THE CELL-THEORY. 
 
 2 
 
International Scientific Series. 
 
 Rev. M. J. BERKELY, M.A., F.L.S. 
 
 FUNGI: their Nature, Influences, and Uses. 
 
 Professor CLAUDE BERNABB (of the College of France). 
 
 PHYSICAL AND METAPHYSICAL PHENOMENA OF LIFE. 
 
 Professor A. &UETELET (of the Brussels Academy of Sciences). 
 SOCIAL PHYSICS. 
 
 Professor H. SAINTE-CLAIBE BEVILLE. 
 
 AN INTRODUCTION TO GENERAL CHEMISTRY. 
 
 Professor WURT2. 
 
 ATOMS AND THE ATOMIC THEORY. 
 
 Professor B. ClUATREFAGrES. 
 
 THE NEGRO RACES. 
 
 Professor LACAZE-DTJTBZIERS. 
 
 ZOOLOGY SINCE CUVIER. 
 
 Professor BERTHELOT. 
 
 CHEMICAL SYNTHESIS. 
 
 Professor JAMES B. SANA, M.A., LL.B. 
 
 ON CEPHALIZATION ; or, Head Domination in its Relation to 
 Structure, Grade, and Development. 
 
 Professor S. W. JOHNSON, M.A. 
 
 ON THE NUTRITION OF PLANTS. 
 
 Professor AUSTIN FLINT, Jr., M.B. 
 
 THE NERVOUS SYSTEM AND ITS RELATION TO THE 
 BODILY FUNCTIONS. 
 
 Professor VT. 33. WHITNEY. 
 
 MODERN LINGUISTIC SCIENCE. 
 Other eminent authors, as WALLACE, HELMHOLTZ, Parks, Mii.nk- 
 EDWARDS, ROSENTHAL, and H/ECKEL, have given strong encouragement 
 that they will also take part in the enterprise. 
 
 S. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 
 
 549 and 551 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
Opinions of the Press on the u International Scientific Series.'" 
 
 Tyndall's Forms of Water. 
 
 I vol., i2mo. Cloth. Illustrated Price, $1.50. 
 
 " In the volume now published, Professor Tyndall has presented a noble illustration 
 of the acuteness and subtlety of his intellectual powers, the scope and insight of his 
 scientific vision, his singular command of the appropriate language of exposition, and 
 the peculiar vivacity and grace with which he unfolds the results of intricate scientific 
 research." — N. Y. Tribune. 
 
 " The ' Forms of Water,' by Professor Tyndall, is an interesting and instructive 
 little volume, admirably printed and illustrated. Prepared expressly for this series, it 
 is in some measure a guarantee of the excellence of the volumes that will follow, and an 
 indication that the publishers will spare no pains to include in the series the freshest in- 
 vestigations of the best scientific minds." — Boston Journal. 
 
 " This series is admirably commenced by this little volume from the pen of Prof. 
 Tyndall. A perfect master of his subject, he presents in a style easy and attractive his 
 methods of investigation, and the results obtained, and gives to the reader a clear con- 
 ception of all the wondrous transformations to which water is subjected." — Churchman. 
 
 II. 
 
 Bagehot's Physics and Politics. 
 
 1 vol., 121110. Price, $1.50. 
 
 " If the ' International Scientific Series ' proceeds as it has begun, it will more than 
 fulfil the promise given to the reading public in its prospectus. The first volume, by 
 Professor Tyndall, was a model of lucid and attractive scientific exposition ; and now 
 we have a second, by Mr. Walter Bagehot, which is not only very lucid and charming, 
 but also original and suggestive in the highest degree. Nowhere since the publication 
 of Sir Henry Maine's 'Ancient Law,' have we seen so many fruitful thoughts sug- 
 gested in the course of a couple of hundred pages. . . . To do justice to Mr. Bage- 
 hot's fertile book, would require a long article. With the best of intentions, we are 
 conscious of having given but a sorry account of it in these brief paragraphs. But we 
 hope we have said enough to commend it to the attention of the thoughtful leader." — 
 Prof. John Fiske, in the Atlantic Monthly. 
 
 " Mr. Bagehot's style is clear and vigorous. We refrain from giving a fuller ac- 
 count of these suggestive essays, only because we are sure that our readers will find it 
 worth their while to peruse the book for themselves; and we sincerely hope that the 
 forthcoming parts of the 'International Scientific Series' will be as interesting." — 
 A thcnaum. 
 
 "Mr. Bagehot discusses an immense variety of topics connected with the progress 
 of societies and nations, and the development of their distinctive peculiarities; and his 
 book shows an abundance of ingenious and original thought." — Alfred Russell 
 Wallace, in Nature. 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
Opinions of the Press on the "International Scientific Series." 
 
 in. 
 
 Foods. 
 
 By Dr. EDWARD SMITH. 
 I vol., i2mo. Cloth. Illustrated Price, $1.75. 
 
 In making up The International Scientific Series, Dr. Edward Smith was se- 
 lected as the ablest man in England to treat the important subject of Foods. His services 
 were secured for the undertaking, and the little treatise he has produced shows that the 
 choice of a writer on this subject was most fortunate, as the book is unquestionably the 
 clearest and best-digested compend of the Science of Foods that has appeared in our 
 language. 
 
 " The book contains a series of diagrams, displaying the effects of sleep and meals 
 on pulsation and respiration, and of various kinds of food on respiration, which, as the 
 results of Dr. Smith's own experiments, possess a very high value. We have not far 
 to go in this work for occasions of favorable criticism ; they occur throughout, but are 
 perhaps most apparent in those parts of the subject with which Dr. Smith's name is es- 
 pecially linked." — London Examiner. 
 
 " The union of scientific and popular treatment in the composition of this work will 
 afford an attraction to many readers who would have been indifferent to purely theoreti- 
 cal details. . . . Still his work abounds in information, much of which is of great value, 
 and a part of which could not easily be obtained from other sources. Its interest is de- 
 cidedly enhanced for students who demand both clearness and exactness of statement, 
 by the profusion of well-executed woodcuts, diagrams, and tables, which accompany the 
 volume. . . . The suggestions of the author on the use of tea and coffee, and of the va- 
 rious forms of alcohol, although perhaps not strictly of a novel character, are highly in- 
 structive, and form an interesting portion of the volume." — N. Y. Tribune. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Body and Mind. 
 
 THE THEORIES OF THEIR RELATION. 
 
 By ALEXANDER BAIN, LL. D. 
 
 Professor Bain is the author of two well-known standard works upon the Science 
 of Mind— "The Senses and the Intellect," and "The Emotions and the Will." He is 
 one of the highest living authorities in the school which holds that there can be no sound 
 or valid psychology unless the mind and the body arc studied, as they exist, together. 
 
 " It contains a forcible statement of the connection between mind and body, study- 
 ing their subtile interworkings bv the light of the most recent physiological investiga- 
 tions. The summary in Chapter V., of the investigations of Dr. Lionel Beale of the 
 embodiment of the intellectual functions in the cerebral system, will be found the 
 freshest and most interesting part of his book. Prof. Bain's own theory of the connec- 
 tion between the mental and the bodily part in man is stated by himself to be as follows : 
 There is ' one substance, with two sets of properties, two sides, the physical and the 
 mental— a double-faced unity.' While, in the strongest manner, asserting the union 
 of mind with brain, he yet denies 'the association of union in place? but asserts the 
 union of close succession in time,' holding that ' the same being is, by alternate fits, un- 
 der extended and under uncxtended consciousness." ' — Christian Register. 
 
 D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, New York. 
 
TASTELESS MEDICINES. 
 
 Of the many methods devised to overcome the nauseous taste of some medicines, 
 such as Tar, Turpentine, Extract Male Fern, and even of Castor and Cod-Liver 
 Oils, none have as yet equalled that of Capsules, they having numerous advantages 
 over all other forms, and the Capsules having the most advantages are those made 
 by Dundas, Dick & Co., of this city—being superior to any other made in America, 
 and, also, to those imported from Europe ; and, when quality and the late deduc- 
 tion (about 20 per cent.) are taken into account, we may safely say they are the 
 cheapest made. They are easily swallowed, even by children, being soft ; con- 
 tain genuine medicines, and may always be relied on; are not objectionable in 
 any way ; and are put up in an elegant and pleasing manner, and expressly for 
 the prescription trade. Under these circumstances, we are not surprised to learn 
 that they are now the only ones ordered by physicians, and that the great success 
 of this Company has no precedent in the Capsules manufacture. — Kew- York Drug- 
 gifts' Price- Current, Dec. 14, 1870 
 
 Dick'S Soft CapSUleS solve the problem long and 
 anxiously considered by many of our most eminent physicians, 
 of how to avoid for the patient the nausea and disgust experi- 
 enced in swallowing, which are well known to often detract from, 
 if not destroy, the beneficial effects of some of the most valuable 
 remedies prescribed. 
 
 The Soft Capsules are handsomely put up in tin-foil and neat 
 boxes, containing 30 each. Every box contains plain and concise 
 directions for those taking the contents, without the advice of i 
 physician, and can be had at every respectable drug-store in th< 
 United States. 
 
 B2T These were the only Capsules admitted to the 
 last Paris Exposition. 
 
 I SO Reade Street, New York. 
 
Formerly the Old Stand, 46 Maiden Lane. Established hy Christian G. Ganther, 1820. 
 
 C. 6. GUNTHER'S SONS, 
 
 FDR DEALERS AND FDRRIERS, 
 
 Opposite the St. Nicholas Hotel, 
 OFFER AN EXTENSIVE ASSORTMENT OF 
 
 LJ3 m 5 
 StQaXwS 
 
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 COMPRISING ALL THE LATEST STYLES IN 
 
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 AND A COMPLETE STOCK OF 
 
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 -A. EICH STOCK OF 
 
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UNION ADAMS & CO., 
 
 Hosiers, Glovers, and Shirt-Makers 
 
 No. 637 BROADWAY, 
 
 NEW YORK CITY, 
 
 Always have on hand the largest and best variety, in this country, of 
 FASHIONABLE 
 
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 FOR 
 
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 Adapted to the Seasons, 
 SPRING, SUMMER, FALL, AND WINTER. 
 
 Importing and manufacturing largely, we CAN and WILL offer superior in> 
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 UNION ARAMS & CO., 
 
 No. 637 Broadway, New York City.