U9 J4. A^ ■ C "* ^ -5^" s o o. bo' A ■.^..-^ - V A"^ 0^ .• \ o^ V 1 B U t> < - ^ a'^''^^^." '''?!\^' '' ^^ >- ^ ^c;^ . \ ^ ^ » *■ A '^ >A' .:^' '^. ;^^%^^ A vc c o\' "SA^' •* C >VjSi# ^ CHRONICLES Or TARRYTOWN AND SLEEPY HOLLOW Bv E:DGAR HAYHEW BACON ILLUSTRTTTCD 0. P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK 7XND LONDON _ THE KNICKERBOCKER PRES^^^J^N t' rwo COPIES RECEIVED Copyright, 1897 BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS Ubc Tftnicftcrboclser press, ■fficw igorh ! M AUTHOR'S PREFACE. OST books of places are prefaced with the statement of a hope that they may ' ' foster local pride. ' ' This little work is not offered with any such futile anticipa- tion. The slow ox, Time, that Sydney Lanier pictures as browsing through his clover-field of poets and great men and names the course-o' -things, ' 'sweeps away old landmarks like worthless rubbish. It is no less destruc- tive in '97 than it was in '37 or at any other date, though not a few have been the heroic efforts to check its progress. Houses wherein generations have lived and died, haunted with memories, disappear each year to make place for bright new bricks and mortar — that is to say, for the planting of the seeds which, in time, will yield a crop of new chronicles. But the policy of destroying old sites may be justly questioned either from an aesthetic or iv preface from a business standpoint ; from the first, b'o cause the sentiment which grows upon the con - templation of that which is venerable and suggestive to the imagination is a pure aid worthy one, and from the second because vt often happens that the chief attraction to strangers (who from visitors not infrequently become residents), Hes not in the new brirjc and mortar, but in the old shingle sides and gambrel roofs of colonial houses. It is certain that the genius of Washington Irving has done a great deal to attract people to Tarry town. It seems safe to say that all other agencies together have not brought as many people into this region as the Lege^id of Sleepy Hollow has. Yet only last year the old house which was, according to Mr. Irving, the scene of the courtship, the home of Katrina van Tassel, was torn down to make way for a new schoolhouse. In 1866 Mr. James Miller wrote the following : " It is folly to quarrel with these changes. Cut down the trees that shade your loveliest brook, if you will ; let an adventurer dam it with his pin factory ; let your old Dutch church go to ruin; let boys Iprcface v hack the woodwork and break the window- glass ; show your fine taste by sticking your smart modern cemetery, with its spic-span tombstones on the hill-top to overcrow the simple relics of the venerable dead who sleep in the old graveyard below — but remember that all this is money out of your pockets. . . . Strangers will come to see these places that Irving has written about and they will not find them. They might have been cared for and preserved, and they would have paid the interest on all it would cost to keep them from destruction." That was a good, honest plea, and as useless as it was earnest. The " course-o' -things " still browses in our historic field, and is no monster after all, but just the world's ox, doing the world's work. He has been always browsing, and the clover has always been springing again at his heels. This book is a basket full of field fare that has been snatched from under his muzzle. If you do not want it he will come to it presently, and then, after deliberate scrutiny, the basket and its contents will go together. ll CONTENTS. PAGE Author's Prejface v I.— IvH^E AND Customs of Kari,y Se;tti,ers i II.— Vre:dryk Fi^ypse;— His Castile . . 5 III.— The Story of the Oi.d Dutch Church 39 IV. — SUNNYSIDE 66 v.— The NeuTrai, Ground . . . .71 VI.— Myths and Legends .... 95 VII. — O1.D Sites and Highways . . . 126 VIII.— TarryTown in War Times . . .144 IX.— To-Day 149 Vll ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE O1.D Manor House ("Fi,ypse'sCasti,b") and Mil,!,, Tarrytown . . . Frontispiece Drawn by the Author. Oi,D MiT,!,— Built by Vr^dryk Flypsb . Old Slee^py Hollow Mill .... / Old Dutch Church in vSlkepy Hollow . From a photograph by F, Ahretis. K Interior of Old Dutch Church, Sleepy Hollow, Prior to its Restoration in 1897 From a photograph by F. Ahrens. ' ' SuNNYSiDE. ' ' Home of Washington Irving Monument to the Captors of Andr^ From a photograph by F. Ahrens. The Jacob Mott House. Home of Katrina Van Tassel Drawn by the Author. The Capture of Andr:^ From a print in the possession of Dr. Coutant. V The Pocantico River ^ Old Church Graveyard " Hulda's grave is close by the north wall." ix 8 20 40 58 66 84 94 102 112 X Ullustratlons. PAGE "HeBehkld Something Hugk, Misshapen, Bi,ACK, AND Towering " . • . .114 From Irving's Legend of Sleepy Hollow i **JUST THEN HE HEARD THE Bl,ACK STEED Panting and Bi, ,„ ^^^^^ names are hereunto subscribed." They then went with him to the house of Leisler within the fort, where the latter not only disputed with them the possession of the papers, but to use their own language, " The said I^eisler told the said Riggs that we had nothing to do with the said government. T/mi we were PapHs and the packets were directed to and belonged to him, and thereupon commanded and took the said packets out of the said Ric^^s his hands, bidding us to depart the said fort hav- ing nothing to do therewith-and used many opprobrious words to both of us." The " nn probnous words" were what rankled the longest, and perhaps had their share in tight- ening the rope around the neck of their author When Sir Henry Sloughter arrived in New York with gubernatorial power, Flypse and his colleague stole a march on Leisler, and while he anxiously awaited the new comer they boarded his vessel, and loading him with com- 3 Gbconlclcs of ttattgtown To cap this coup d etat, t ^^^.^_ j tance to the new ^ ^^^ at least fortunate in ». ^^^ ^^^^^ ^.,^. enougt to clinch it for n ^^^ ^^^ ^^_^_ So Sloughter was ^""^ ^ afterwards spiratorsdidn.^ gam f ;;f^;j„,,,,etions oeeupiedinhisconno^,-;^^ ^^^^,,, ^hich the new Govern ^.i, ^U the hta, the name ^^ ^otU app ^^ ^^.^^^^^^_ attesting formute °f '^' '1° pj^iUps was first ^"^-^"^teu: oft nt'nto\e caned, named upon the hst ot c ^^^ ^^^.^^ ^°" Tlf htpSLl career, to direct '-'' '"' ! bts^esrand stiU give thought to ^"^";atThmpsburg,itishardtosee. Ws manor at PU P ^^^^ ^^,y Attend to It he ciitt, thoroughly. ^^^ ^ee^,ed, he ^''"'TfinshdWshousebutamillas bad not only fimshed n ^^^.^ .,, where his tenaii. - ^^^^^^^ ^^, corn ground, ana i an6 SleepB IboHow 19 Whites used to carry on those trading opera- tions that gave the aborigines some of their first impressions of Caucasian superiority The old mill still stands, its empty granary a refuse for bats and squirrels and other untamed folk • Its walls creak with the swaying of the willows that lean against it, and idly dabble their finger- tips m the stream ; yet the ancient structure wears its centuries very lightly. It speaks elo- quently for the methods of Flypse, who as car- penter, trader, or legislator has left no record of half-done work. Whether he undertook to erect a mill or elevate a governor, he did not ail to accomplish thoroughly what he took in iiand. The mill is a little more than a rod south of the house. Its timbers are of unusually heavy hewn oak, and its roof is shaped like that of the house. The sides are shingled, not with such puny shingles as we have to-day but mighty ones, made of cedar that has forgotten how to grow since then. A treasured speci- men hangs over my table; it is carven with rain and warped by sun and wind, while the years have painted it to a gray that no other colorist Gbronicles ot ^artstovvn ,rh Throughout its two feet of length can match, i mou, ^^^^ arP yearns and fissures and cross cuts wi areseanibdi Tt tapers from 1 ^r,vc have fairly charred it. it wp*^^ elements nave idiii J t^^f ^TTqc once r 1, If 011 inrh at what w^as oucc tne tiiiu recently teart of an antiquary leap for joy. Tn its day tbe old mill is said to have been a ! f Intrv and the vessels whose manifests :ri:::Serthere ^e^n^ed for the m^t Zn to the dignified gentleman who sat tn the !e of customs-at least, so tradition asserts^ rle failed to find record of any other port of entry situated so far from the sea as this ' The miUpond dam was a picturesque affair , nrooDcd by a small forest of of great logs, proppea uy anD Sleeps Ibollow 21 lesser logs. A foot-bridge and hand-rail crossed the top. The height of the structure was probably about twenty feet, and below it was a deep pool, towards the lower end of which a wooden wharf received the cargoes of the vessels that entered there. These craft, some at least, proceeded past New York with- out dropping anchor, to and from the West Indies and even from Holland. They were queer tubs, smaller than we trust for ocean travel nowadays, but commanded by men very singular in build and costume, yet intrepid navigators ; tars as adventurous as any the world has ever known. Probably the imports were of such a character as w^ould shock good temperance people of to-day. In a report to the Crown, written August 6, 1691, and signed by Flypse and his associates, appears this para- graph : '* New Yorke is the metropolis, is situ- ate upon a barren island bounded by Hudson's River and the East River that runs into the sound and hath nothing to support it but trade which flows chiefly from flour and bread they make of the corn the west end of I.ong Island and Sopus produces, which is sent to the West 22 Cbroniclcs of Q^arr^town Indies and there is brought in return from thence a liquor called Rtimin, the duty whereof considerably increaseth yozir majesty^ s reve7iue.''^ In the light of such a document we can easily understand how the old mill came to be a port of entry. That the officer who made such a report to the Crown should be comptroller of a port where his own ships unloaded, no doubt '* mightily increased " his own revenue. During the troublous times of which some mention has been already made, I^ady Mar- gareta died, and Flypse, with his usual decision and energy, looked about him straightway for another wife. He found before long a worthy successor to Margarita, in Catharina, the daughter of old Oloffe Van Cortlandt and, therefore, the sister of his colleague, Stephanus Van Cortlandt. The marriage took place soon, and Catharina Van Cortlandt, widow of John Dervall (who had had the kindness to leave her a large fortune) became Lady Catharina Philips of the Manor of Philipsburo^. singularly enough, this is the ^^ay Lady Philips that tradition recognizes. anD Sleepy Ibollow 23 This alliance made Flypse the richest man in the colony. While strengthening himself by this means, he was neither lax in business nor lazy in politics as his years and his influence grew together. I have attempted to give in the foregoing pages a faint idea of the character of Flypse, or rather, to indicate the lines upon which a study of that strong personality may be pur- sued. It is a well-worn thought, yet I venture it again — that no man's greatness must be measured by the size of the world he lives in. That Vredryk was a statesman, though liv- ing and laboring in a petty State, the inadequate record of his acts show. With strength of will, clear judgment, and ambition, he was, at the beginning of the eighteenth century the foremost man in what is now the Empire State. Although by nature and all his sympathies and circumstances the leader of the ' ' patrician ' ' party in the infant colony, he appears to have been the first American chosen by popular vote as a popular representative in the little city of his adoption. With his hands deep in every broth which his colleagues Bayard and Van 24 Cbronicle6 ot Q^acr^town Cortlandt brewed ; with his head teeming with wonderful and carefully devised schemes for exercising the power held nominally by the Governor of the colony, he yet managed to make so good a showing to the Crown that the seal ot Whitehall was secured to endorse his acts. Beginning life with the saw and hammer in his hands, he laid them down to commence the building of a fortune, which seemed to his as- sociates colossal. Coveting an estate, he se- cured one of the fairest in the colony, where we may well believe his word was law. One episode in the life of Flypse we must not omit to mention. As a merchant his ves- sels were, in common with all that sailed the seas at that day, subject to the dangers inci- dent to an infant commerce. The greatest of these was that arising from piracy. Marauders of every grade preyed upon the vessels which crossed from the old world to the new. At last, upon the suggestion of Colonel lyiving- stone, of New York, William Kidd was com- missioned to act as a sort of marine patrol, or constable whose duty it v/as to protect the merchantman. aiiD Sleeps Ibollovv 25 The histor}^ of Captain Kidd's own career, his perversion to the lawless class he was sent to make war upon, and his subsequent capture and execution, are familiar to all. But in the heat of political strife there were not found wanting those who noticed that the vessels of Flypse and his friends were not called upon to pay toll to the privateer. A whisper, which was not stilled for many years, coupled the names of Flypse and Bayard with that of the notorious pirate. Was it from this source that that other legend arose in which a certain rock — still standing like a sentinel upon the river wall within rifle range of Flypse' s Castle — gained the name (by which it is known to-day) of '* Kidd's Rock?" Flypse died in 1702. The son who ruled in his stead was Adolphus, his second born. Philip, the elder, married a lady from the Bar- badoes and died young, leaving one son, who took his father's christened name. This Philip Philips was afterwards Judge of the Supreme Court. He had four children, to whom the estate of Philipsburg reverted, and out of whose I 26 Cbroniclcs ot ^arrgtown hands it passed at the time of the Revokition ; for Frederick Philips, great grandson of the founder of the house, was as weak and vacil- lating a fellow as ever let a wealthy estate slip through his fingers. He first thought he favored the Continental cause, and then changed his mind and was sure he belonged to the Tory party. While he was making up his mind he was exiled to Connecticut on parole. First he thought he would keep his parole, and afterwards was induced to break it, and the result was that he was surprised into an activity that resulted in the confiscation of Philipsburg by New York. But this did not occur for a long time. When Frederick the first died, his son Adol- phus took charge of the baronial affairs. That he did so to the entire satisfaction of all parties concerned is evident from a memorial of thanks presented by his tenants in 1716. It is worth publishing if only as an evidence of the amount of laudation that one fairly respectable man could stand in those days. It runs as follows : ' ' Resolved^ That we take in hand and com- plete, in as far as possible, our resolution to anD Slccpg Ibollovv 27 show the duty of thanks which we owe for the many mercies done to your servants our parents of blessed memory, but especially to us your present servants and women servants, from time to time by your Hon. Right Honorable IvOrd and father of blessed memory, as also from your honored mother of blessed mem- ory, the Lady Margarita, as also by your I/Ord Father's last wedded wife, I^ady Catha- rina, as also by your Honorable Right Honora- ble and Noble, very wise and provident, our I^ordship the L^ord Adolphus Philips, viz : for the many benefits done to us your faith- ful servants and women ser^^ants through various favorable means and good instructions — we therefore pray with all reverence that your honored Lordship will receive these our small thanks according to our small deserts, and we your honored and obedient servants will remain obligated and will ever be your honorable very obedient humble servants. ' ' Imagine the feelings of the man who should receive to-day such an epistle as that, couched in the purest of low Dutch! A Hollandish pedagogue must have framed those sentences. 28 Cbroniclca ot ^arri^tovvn Cornelius was a bachelor. He was a man of talent and influence. His life was passed be- tween his estate and the metropolis, where he filled the office of Assemblyman, and was, like his nephew Philip, a Judge of the Supreme Court. Indeed, Adolphus seemed to inherit not only a large portion of his father's wealth, but considerable of his character. He died in 1750, aged eighty-five years. In person he was tall and of commanding presence. The member of all the Philips family to whom tradition points as an object of venera- tion is the stepmother, Catharina. She, too, had her memorial regularly recorded by the venerable Abraham de Revere, in which lauda- tion chokes itself Her name is first on the list of members of the church she possibly helped to build. Before it, is the preamble ' * First and before all." Her title was sometimes written, ' ' The Right Honorable v/ise pious and very provident lady, widow of Lord Fredryk Flypse, who did here very praiseworthily advance the cause of religion." So we see that while the lady was pious, wise, and very provident (charitable ?), which anD Sleeps IF^ollow 29 makes her a truly phenomenal woman, her lord is almost damned with faint praise. But apparently Catherina's distinguishing piety began with her widowhood. Certain it is, that both the husband and wife on state occasions graced with their presence the " thrones," cushioned and canopied, that flanked the old octagonal pulpit, there to be admired by the less comfortable, but no less contented tenants. And certain it is that both the Lord and his lyady lie in less dignified but no less solemn state beneath the church floor to-day. We must not forget Flypse's daughters. Kva, his adopted child (according to Doctor Todd), married Cornelius Van Cortlandt, and that part of the estate where Yonkers now stands was given to her for a marriage por- tion ; of one of her descendants we will have something further to sa}^ The second daugh- ter, Annetje, married Philip French. In 1702, lyord Cornbury was made Governor, and that same year French became Mayor. He married upon his appointment to office. It will be re- membered that this same year, 1702, Vredryk Flj^pse died. 30 Cbroniclee ot tTarr^town It is not altogether easy to dismiss the char- acters who moulded the thought and manners of many people, and who retained for nearly a century large political influence and power in what are now the counties of Westchester and New York. The tenants of the Flypse estate were the ancestors of many of the people who are enjoy- ing the nineteenth-century luxuries of lighting and locomotion with us to-day. We are wont to bestow our gratuitous pity upon the victim of saddle and sail-boat and monthly post-man, in the far-off days when wheat-fields waved from the manor-farm to the forest edge; when the red deer drank by the Pocantico, and the red men brought furs to trade for ' ' rumm ' ' at the mill ; when from some urchin's pocket a chestnut was dropped among the corn rows, where now the great tree with its twenty feet girth lifts a coronal of plumes in the centre of the forty-acre lot ; but have we more of life, of energy, of those experiences that go to make up our sum of pain and pleasure than they had? When the property passed from the hands anD Sleepy IFdoUow 31 of its original owners, one of the old-time guests who possibly looked back regretfully at the last pages of that chapter was George Washington. Tradition (the jade) tells how the father of his countr}^ courted Miss Philips before he met the admirable Mrs. Custis; and twenty years ago one could see the room in which he slept, with furniture (so they said) unchanged. To some people who have been accustomed to regard the Flypse family as among the ' ' Patroons, ' ' it will probably be a great disap- pointment to learn that they had no claim to that very Dutchest of titles^ being lords by an English creation, and not through the favor of the States-General of Holland. When after the Revolution the manor of Philipsburg was confiscated by the new gov- ernment of New York, the lands becoming for- feit by the attainder of Sir Frederic Philips, last of his name, one of the principal grantees was a descendant from an ancient political ad- versary of Vredryk the first. This was Gerard G. Beekman. Years before, it will be remem- bered, Eva Philips married Cornelius Van 32 Cbronlcles ot Q;arn2town Cortlandt. Her granddaughter, or great-grand- daughter, CorneHa Van Cortlandt, married Gerard Beekman, and so came back to the manor and house her ancestor founded. At the beginning of its second chapter of history the old house had to undergo repairs and alterations. A north end was added, bearing much resemblance — externally — to the old part, but not so solidly built. Within, the difference in ceiling, doors, and mantels are marked. At the same time a front ofl&ce was added to the mill, and that part is now greatly damaged by time. The moral of this seems to be that a house built by a carpenter has the odds in its favor. The generation that came in with the Revo- lution passed away — all but old Mrs. Beekman — who had been Miss Van Cortlandt. She lived on and on past her generation, known and loved as a I^ady Bountiful, the good genius of the neighborhood, and died not so long ago but that many people still remember her. She used to tell how during the war of Independence she had lain awake all one night in the old manor-house, listening to the rumble anD Qkcm ibollovp 33 and grumble of the Continental Army as it passed. Commenting upon this story, one to whom she had told it said in after years that he did not understand how she came to be in that house at the tim^e, when it was Philips' s property. Her relation to the Philips family will explain that fully. Before Mrs. Beekman's death (she lived to be nearly a hundred) the broad acres of the estate had been cut down and a host of strangers had crowded into the town, lured by the railroad that crossed the mouth of the pleasant bay, and has since destroyed it en- tirely by cutting off the river connection. After a while the house passed from the Beekman's hands. Mr. Foote at one time oc- cupied it and Captain Jacob Storm, who was a descendant of one of the old settlers. It be- came the property of the late Ambrose Kings- land, who bought it because he had an estate adjoining, and who " improved'' it almost past recognition. One of the family removed the machinery of the old mill; another clapboarded the sides of the house, not liking the looks of the stone walls, and made other additions and 34 Cbronlciea of tarr^town alterations. There are now, I think, only two old mantels left of the several that I can re- member, and these are in the modern, or Beek- man, part of the house. Some new doors, a row of dormer windows in the roof, and a bal- cony and piazza are also of a modern date; while a west addition completely hides the port-holes where the howitzers protruded from their lair in the cellar. Still in the southwest corner of the mill a number of small holes seem to show where a load of shot at some time missed a probable designation on the creek. The big chimney on the west side gave place to a smaller one in the centre, and its Holland bricks are now lining part of a more modern house in the village. Verily, the old house has been changed, but its walls and roof retain their integrity ! I hardly know how to classify, or where to mention, the many odds and ends that seem only so many component parts of a historic rubbish-heap, a curious jumble of lonely and non-assorted legends and relics that are like the scraps and the drift that the wash of years has deposited as tidemarks in the old mill. There, lying among shavings of more modern pine, one may come across a piece of leather belting and cups of the elevator still hanging therefrom, marking a comparatively recent date in grain milling, and find still lower down a bit of century-carved oak, or a bolt that was driven when New York was still the far west. So, like witnesses of old-time lawsuits, or like the memories of old men touching themes that our cyclopedias have forgotten to mention, there comes a rabble of hints and many per- plexing half-lights insisting upon our recogni- tion of them. What shall we do with them ? Where place the date of the vessel that found- ered by the mill, whose last rib alone marked the place of her resting when we were boys ? How tell the story of the old bones that a frightened tenant found in the cellar corner of the manor-house— and left there? What is there of story connected with the spurs that were found in the same uncanny corner ; did they belong to the bones ? Were the remains really human, of foe, or slave, or lost traveller, of colonial or revolutionary date; or did some cel- lar-housed watch-dog leave his larder there ? 36 Cbronicles ot tTarr^town What shall we say of the little scales that have presumably descended from Vredryk Flypse, and which, up to the time of his death, were in the possession of Mr. Jas. S. See, of North Tarrytown ? If they would tell us whether they gave good weight or not we might have something of a clue to the hand that first held them. When the last resident Philips collected his last rents he left the little gold scales at the house of Mr. See's ancestor, where they remained for more than a century. They are now treasured by Mrs. James Hawes. another descent of that old time tenant. In the old church is an old oak bier — who lay upon it first ? Whose ghostly hand is it that rattles the door of the south parlor of the old house when no one can be seen there? These are questions that the historian who picks them up must drop as he drops the piece of leather belting or the wrought bolt back to their rubbish-heap again. Someone else may find in any one of them the clue to a mystery, or the hinge for a tragedy to turn upon. A few years more, and probably the old mill would have dropped to ruin for want of care, anD Sleepy fboUovv 37 but for repairs completed at the time of this writing. A flood several years ago did dam- age. Some leaks in the roof made more mis- chief than a century of storm beating could have done, and the willows that folded the creases of their mighty trunks about its eaves tried for a share in the conclusion. And the inevitable downfall has only been postponed. We have little regard for anything the value of which is based upon sentiment only. A few years, at most, and some factory or dwelling must take its place, while men of an antiquarian turn of mind dispute about the site of this ancient port. Then, in some still, moon- Ht midnight, we can fancy that the old-time worthies will steal across from their encamp- ment on the hillside opposite, and grieve be- cause they cannot find in the great house, wooden-cased and land-girt as it is, any trace of Flj^pse— his Castle. Right well I wote, most mighty soveraine That all this famous antique history Of some the abundance of an ydle braine Will iudged be, and painted forgery, Rather than matter of iust memorie ; 38 Cbronlcles ot ZTarr^tovvn Sith none that breatheth living aire doth know Where is that happy land of Faerie, Which I so much doe vaunt, j^et no where show ; But vouch antiquities which no body can know. — Spenser's Faery Queen, Ill THK STORY OF THK OI