dass-E / £ 9 & *+ c -» * - = EL DORADO; ' *> BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE CIRCUMSTANCES WHICH GAVE RISE TO RETORTS, IX THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY, OF THE EXISTENCE Of A RICH AND SPLENDID CITY IN SOUTH AMERICA, TO WHICH THAT NAME WAS GIVEN, AND WHICH LED TO MANY ENTERPRISES IN SEARCH OF IT J INCLUDING A DEFENCE OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH, IN REGARD TO THE RELATIONS MADE BY HIM RESPECTING IT, AND A NATION OF FEMALE WARRIORS, IN THE VICINITY OF THE AMAZON, IN THE NARRATIVE OF HIS EXPEDITION TO THE ORONOKE IN 1595. WITH A MAP. BY J. A. VAN HEUVEL iX'cro-Uork : J. WINCHESTER, NEW WORLD PRESS, 30 ANN-STREET. Sun office, corner fulton and nassau ; burgess, stringer and co. 222 broadway j. c wadi.e1gh 4.")!) broadway j brainard and co., and redding am i r. g. berford, philadelphia; wm. taylor, baltimore j oeorgs kmtes, albany. i thomas h. pease, new haven ; t. s. hawks, buffalo j bravo and morgan, and j. b. steel, new orleans; j. w. i burg j AND BY ALL THE BOOKSELLERS AND PERIODICAL AGENTS THROUGHOUT THE UNITEr " Books for the People," published by J. Winchester, 30 Ann-street, New-York. PRICE 35 CENTS. THERESE~DUNOYER. BY EUGENE SUE, AUTHOR OT " THE MYSTERIES OF PARIS," " MATILDA," ETC., ETC. TRANSLATED BY J. S. HUDSON. This is the most original of all the admirable novels of Eugene Sue. The scenes lie principally in the heart ol the Parisian Metropolis ; and all the gay and glittering pursuits of men of elegance and fashion are graphically described. The dramatic attractions of this novel are as great as its romantic interest. The hand which drew aside the curtain and displayed the wonderful ongoings of Parisian life in the " Mysteries of Paris," is constantly exhibited in Therese Donoyer. PRICE 35 CENTS. THE FEMALE BLUEBEARD; OR, LE MORNE-AU-DIABLE. BY EUGENE SUE, AUTHOR Of THE "MYSTERIES OF PARIS," "MATILDA," "THERESE DUNOYER," ETC., ETC. This is an exceedingly interesting and pleasant story, and differs essentially from Mr. Sue's other works. It is founded upon the adventures of a distinguished nobleman of England, of royal blood, who escaped from that country at the close of the unfortunate rebellion against James II., and fled, with his beautiful Duchess, to the Island of Martinique. The story abounds with glowing descriptions of the beautiful scenery of the tropics, wild adventure, hazardous escapes, and thrilling incidents. Its pages will not offend the most fastidious. PRICE ISA CENTS. THE PHILOSOPHER'S STONE. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF BALZAC, BY A LADY. Among the numerous novels of Mr. Balzac, only a very few would, in their tone, suit the American public. '■"he majority of thpm are intended, it would seem, by the author, to illustrate the existing evils attending the fulw? mode of marriage in France ; and the frightful immorality resulting from considering women creatures of n purely, and not equally with men, subjects of that moral law which elevates both sexes above weak- t but few of them, perhaps, could be selected, which it would be desirable to translate. Hut thii s veet Tale of Domestic .Life in Danders— where all the affections so deeply at work are sanctioned Ly law an<: religion— must interest every heart of sensibility. It illustrates, too, a species of calamity which 1 ins been made the subject of representation, and which the author has certainly treated with mate ius. In tbei preee- 1 fance, it affords to the proprietors of the New World ho small gratification to furnish the public wi( ition so faithful, so elegant, and in every way so worthy of the series, which they design to p it delightful romance, entitled in the original, ' ' La Recherche d' Absolue." •/£>? EL DORADO. EL DORADO; BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE CIRCUMSTANCE WHICH OAVE RISE TO REPORTS, IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY, OF THE EXISTENCE OF A RICH AND SPLENDID CITY IN SOUTH AMERICA, TO WHICH THAT NAME WAS GIVEN, AND WHICH LED TO MANY ENTERPRISES IN SEARCH OF IT; INCLUDING A DEFENCE OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH, IN REGARD TO THE RELATIONS MADE BY HIM RESPECTING IT, AND A NATION OF FEMALE WARRIORS, IN THE VICINITY OF THE AMAZON, IN THE NARRATIVE OF HIS EXPEDITION TO THE ORONOKE IN 1596. W T T II A M A P . B \ J. A VAN HEUVEL 3fai>~$ork : J. WINCHESTER, NEW WORLD PRESS, 30 ANN-STREET. MDCCCXLIV. Morses Cerograpjy. EDtered according to Act of Coagress, by JACOB A. VAN HEUYEL, In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District cf New York, in the year 1844. INTRODUCTION. Among the distinguished names which shine in the pages of Modern History, scarce any holds a more conspicuous place than Sir Walter Raleigh. And equally to an American as to the inhabitants of his own country, is his history interesting, as his enterprising spirit first led to the discovery of that part of North America which is now the United States ; and made the first attempts to colonize it — whence he has been called the Father of American Colonization. His brilliant and varied talents, his bold and daring genius, his chivalric courage ; his services to his country, both by land and sea, which were the fruits of these qualities, particularly his maritime expeditions ; combined with his ardent love of science and his extensive knowledge — and in the end, his melancholy fate, have often been portrayed by writers of his own country, with enthusiastic admira- tion, mingled with deep sympathy and regret. A portion of his life may, how- ever, it is believed, even now, from a further knowledge of facts, be more fully elucidated. The melancholy catastrophe of it, had its origin in various expeditions which he made during a long period to Guyana, in South America, in pursuit of the fabled city of El Dorado — supposed by him — to be within its limits and of the rich mineral treasures with which it abounded. But this part of his life has been less particularly examined than any other. While the sentence against him has been denounced, with unqualified condemnation, by historians generally, for the grounds on which it was founded, as unjust, tyrannical and oppressive ; the censures he became subject to, from the representations he made of that country, as a weak victim to credulity, or the dishonest fabricator of the glowing accounts he gave of it, made, it was alleged, with the view of regaining the favor of an offended sovereign, have continued, yet, to throw some shade on the fame of this illustrious man. My attention has been directed to this portion of his life, by a visit I made, some years since, to a part of British Guyana ; which led me to consult cotomporary voyagers to that and other parts of Guyana, and later writers, who have described it ; and the result of my careful investigation of the subject, aided by a lew facts I then obtained, has thrown some light on the Narrative of his first voyage to that region, which furnished the ground of the invectives of his enemies ; and enabled me to place his character, in regard to it, in a more- advantageous light than it has heretofore been viewed in. VT INTRODUCTION. Some relations made by him of very singular tribes of Indians, in the vicinity of the Oronoke and Amazon, which contributed to impair the credibility of his statements generally, by exhibiting him to those disposed to condemn him, with- out examination, as a credulous dealer in fabulous romantic narratives ; in par- ticular, his remarkable account of a nation of female warriors, whom Hume, in his unlimited invective against him, styles his " Republic of Amazons," have also been the subject of my examination ; and which has, I believe, resulted in an entire vindication, of him in respect to them. It is the object of these pages to exhibit the facts I have collected on the sub- jects I have examined, and the conclusions I have formed upon them ; which will be done with a strict regard to truth and historical accuracy, without aiming at embellishment ; and for his defence, I rely on a simple presentation of them, founded as they will be, on unimpeachable testimony ; believing that thus greater justice will be done to his memory, than by attempting a general eulogy on his character, which is not required, and would be a useless effort, after the numerous panegyrics upon him which have proceeded from the ablest pens. Heuvelton, St. Lawrence County, New- York, Jan. 20, 1844. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Early life of Sir Walter Raleigh — his attempts to colonize Virginia — Incurs the dis- pleasure of Queen Elizabeth, and his exile from Court — Begins to entertain the scheme of the conquest of Guyana and the discovery of El Dorado — Account of the origin of this Chimera and of various enterprises of the Spaniards in pursuit of it. CHAPTER II. Account of several expeditions made by Raleigh to Guyana — Notice of his Narrative relating reports heard by him of El Dorado in the interior of it, situated upon a great Lake — Opinions of Geographers as to the reality of such a Lake, and its character. CHAPTER III. Investigation of the character of Lake Parima — What rivers flow from it — State of the population about it in the time of Raleigh — Circumstances which probably gave rise to the idea of a great City upon it — Some facts regarding the Natural History of that Region. CHAPTER IV. Examination of the relation of Juan Martinez, a Spaniard, who professed to have seen the City — Whether gold articles were in early times possessed by the In- dians in the interior of Guyana, and whence obtained — Remarks on the rela- tion of a Charibee Chief on the Oronoke, of an invasion of it by Peruvians. CHAPTER V Sir Walter Raleigh's reports of the mineral riches of Guyana, examined — Opinions of Humboldt on the subject — Difficulties in which Raleigh became involved at home, which suspended his expeditions to Guyana — His trial and long impris- onment. CHAPTER VI. Hie liberation from imprisonment — Prepares another (his fourth) expedition to Guy- ana — Unfortunate failure of it — His return home — Great displeasure trf the i against him — His tragical end — Consequences of his voyages to that country — Colonies sent to it from England — Sketch of the settlements made in it by other nations. viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. Examination of several remarkable relations made by Raleigh, of Indian tribes in Guyana and its vicinity, particularly of a nation of Female Warriors on the Amazon — Similar relations made by various Travellers. CHAPTER VIII. The subject continued — Relations heard by the author in Guyana, respecting them — Opinions of different writers on the subject — Account of the Green Stones, their peculiar ornament — Probable origin of this nation. APPENDIX I. Relation of Fisher, associate of Harcourt, who made a voyage to Cayenne, in 1608 — Respecting a Lake in the interior of Guyana, and a city upon it. APPENDIX II. Extracts from several paper? four -J. in a prize vessel taken from the Spaniards giving an account of the discovery of El Dorado, in Guyana. APPENDIX III. Remarks on the warlike character of the females of the Charibees. APPENDIX I V. Sir Walter Raleigh's Letter to Prince Henry, and his Instructions to his son. APPENDIX V. Vocabularies of the Languages of Five Indian Nations, in Guyana. APPENDIX VI. Comparison of some languages of the Oronoke and Guyana, with the Moxos and Quichua of Peru. EL DORADO, CHAPTER I. £ARLY LIFE OF SIR SALTER RALEIGH — HIS ATTEMPTS TO COLONIZE VIR- GINIA INCURS THE DISPLEASURE OF THE QUEEN, AND HIS EXILE FROM COURT — BEGINS TO ENTERTAIN THE SCHEME OF THE CONQUEST OF GUYANA AND THE DISCOVERY OF EL DORADO ACCOUNT OF THE ORIGIN OF THIS CHIMERA AND OF VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS BY THE SPANIARDS TN PURSUIT Few men have, at any time, appeared on the public stage, who united in their character such an assemblage of brilliant qualities as Sir Walter Raleigh. His physical and mental endowments were alike conspicuous. Formed by nature in the finest mould, and his constitution possessed both of vio-or and ability — an active life would seem to have been that for which he was peculiarly qualified, while an intellect of varied powers, fitted him equally for the investigation of science and the pursuit of litera- ture. We see him, at one time employed in the military service of his country, or on bold and daring maritime expeditions; at another, when retired from public scenes, devoting his time with the most patient assidui- ty to grave and laborious studies, and employing his pen in giving to the world the results of his investigations. " When we view his actions," says Mr. Cayley, one of his biographers, from whom I have taken my principal facts in his life, "we are astonished at the number of his wri- tings. Viewing his writings, we wonder he had time for so much action."* And not only was his philosophic genius employed in the study of History and Philosophy, moral and natural in all its branches : he sometimes, also, recreated himself in the flowery walks of imagination. The vi which he wrote, at different times, arc very favorable specimens of his poetical talent ; and it is the opinion of a cotemporary, that had 1; himself to the cultivation of it, ho would have arrived at as much dis- tinction in this as any other department of literature, or as he attain any sphere in which he moved in public life. When arrived at manhood and entered into public service. ie s00 " discovered a genius for enterprise and the pursuit of fort ' M T- • Ciy ley'. Life of R&leijh, 2nd vol. p. 165 • Tho sd.uon referred ft .ire quotations, ii the se;ond . LonUo: 2 ELDORADO. To that object his active life was mainly devoted — and when not engaged abroad,, or on public duties at home, his hours of leisure were directed to the pursuit of knowledge ; and he discovered the happy effects of the union of an inquisitive mind — which led him to seek information in every direction, of foreign countries — with an enterprising genius, in forming plans for their discovery ; and great activity, energy and perseverance, in carrying them into execution. This combination of various qualities, made him the admiration of the age in which he lived, and one of the most distinguished men of his country ; but had, likewise, the effect of raising against him a number of rivals, envious of his talents and influ- ence, who at length undermined him — and, combined with political circum- stances, caused his unhappy fate. » He had the advantage," says Mr. Cayley, " of entering life under ihe reign of Queen Elizabeth, so distinguished for the vigor and success of her government, and the variety of important events occurring in the course of it, and at a period of unusual political activity to exercise and encourage his genius." And he early discovered indications of that brave and daring spirit, and love of enterprise, which distinguished him through life. When he had just arrived ha his seventeenth year, he engaged as one of a troop of well-equipped volunteers, who, under permission from ihe Queen, marched into France to assist the Huguenots. " He remained an France four years ; and as, during this whole period, there was a con- stant succession of battles, sieges, and treaties, he had a very advantage- ous opportunity to form his military character." He was next employed in Holland. The Queen having broken her peace with Spain, and agreed to supply the States with men and money, a force was sent there by her, "which Raleigh accompanied. On his return in 1579, being then in his twenty-seventh year, he exchanged the service on land for that on the sea ; and then appeared the first development of that spirit of maritime enterprise and foreign discovery, which was the leading feature of his life. Sir Humphrey Gilbert, his relative, obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth for planting and inhabiting certain northern parts of America, which extended beyond the twenty-fifth degree of N.Lat., unpossessed by any of her allies ; and young Raleigh readily engaged in the adventure. Many others entered into the cause. When the shipping was prepared, however, unanimity was wanting, and the majority separated ; leaving Sir Hum- phrey to prosecute the adventure with only a few of his most faithful adherents — among whom was R,aleigh. With these few he ventured to sea, and, after a smart action with the Spaniards, was compelled to return home with the loss of a large ship. T'he early period at which Raleigh entered into the public service, de- prived i«ri " f the advantages of extended education. Of his childhood, no circumstc«» ce has been preserved ; and it is not known even, at what school he had be» n admitted. But it is agreed by Lord Bacon and some other writers of that period, that he studied a few years at the University of Oxford. From what ca&ses he broke so early from his studies, and SIRW ALTER RALEIGH. 3 enlisted in a band of youthful volunteers to aid the Protestants of France, is not known : but it is clear it did notarise from a disrelish for study and the pursuit of knowledge. He soon became sensible of the deficiency in his education, " and, amid the anxious and troublesome life of a soldier, endeavored to repair it. Of the twenty-four hours, only live were allowed for sleep, and four were devoted to study; while he voluntarily shared, in his land and sea expeditions, the labors, hardships, and hazards of the meanest of his companions." After this he was engaged in Ireland in military affairs. The Roman Catholics there, instigated by the King of Spain and the Pope, were on the eve of a general revolution ; and to subdue them, a force was sent over by the Government, in which Raleigh held a commission as captain. Very honorable mention is made by an historian of his services in this rebellion. He was one of four companies deputed by the Commander of tne troops to attack a fort built by the Spaniards, in which he exhibited great activity and bravery ; and after a siege of five days, the fort sur- rendered at discretion. In other actions he displayed the same spirit, address, and courage. " It was probably about this time, that Spenser the poet, who had been appointed by Lord Grey — the deputy — his secretary, contracted that friendship with Raleigh, which proved so beneficial to him in Raleigh's more advanced fortunes ; for after Sir Philip Sidney's death, he was his chief patron and friend." " Raleigh's services in Ireland, were of themselves sufficient to recom- mend him to the favor of Queen Elizabeth. But tradition has related an incident which ascribes to his gallantry, his first introduction to his sove- reign. The Queen in her walks, met one day, it is said, a dirty spot on the road, which made her hesitate about proceeding. Raleigh, whose person was handsome and his address graceful, threw off his new plush mantle and spread it for her majesty, who trod over the fair carpet sur- prised and pleased at the adventure." Sir Humphrey Gilbert, four years after his unsuccessful voyage, made another expedition to Newfoundland, and Raleigh determined to hold a share in it, though he did not accompany it ; and fitted out a vessel of two hundred tuns to join it, at his own expense. The fleet sailed on the eleventh of June, 1583. His vessel was obliged to part from it, by a contagious distemper, and returned to England in great distress. Sir Humphrey reached Newfoundland, and took possession of it; but on his return two of his vessels were lost, in one of which he himself perished.* Raleigh's mind appears now to have become entirely devoted to the pursuit of foreign discoveries, and his enterprising genius found an a field on which to exert itself. The ill success of his relative, had kittle influence in damping his ardor. Other regions in North America lay yet • Xplored. On examining the discoveries and e>- the Span- iard-, he found that they had not extc . .id the Gulf of Mexico. b -vul. 1. p. !.>- 4 L DOR A D and that a large extent of country lay north of it, which he thought might be worth colonizing, and he resolved to attempt it. Having prepared his plan, he laid it before the Queen and council, and it meeting with their approbation, she granted him her letters patent, dated March the twenty-fifth, 1584, " to discover such remote barbarous lands as were not actually possessed by any Christain people." No sooner was the patent obtained, than he, with some associates, equipped two vessels for an American voyage, commanded by Captains Philip Amidas and Arthur Barlowe, which went to sea on the twenty, seventh of April, 1584, and arrived the fourth day of July succeeding, on the coast of North Carolina, and cast anchor at the Island of Roanoke, of which they took possession in right of the Queen, and to the use of Raleigh. An amicable intercourse was held by them with the Indians, but they made no settlement on it, and returned to England satisfied with having obtained a knowledge of the country ; and as a record of their having taken possession of it, drew up an account of the voyage of discovery and landing, addressed to Raleigh, and signed by some of the principal persons who were present. . Raleigh laid before Queen Elizabeth the account he had received of the country, visited by the ships, with which she was so pleased, that, < : either, because this was the first discovery of it, or it was discovered under her rei In regard to the name El Dorado, it arose, according to this writer, from a circumstance related by the Indians, sufficiently remarkable to attract great attention ; — but not necessarily embracing the ideas afterward con- nected with it. " In the histories of Terra Firma and New Grenada, it will be seen," he observes, " to have had its origin on the coast of Car- thagena and Santa Martha, from which it passed to Bogota. A rumor being spread through those regions, of a wealthy King who lived in a country abounding in gold, and on public occasions appeared with his body sprinkled over with gold dust ; the name of El Dorado was given to him, meaning in Spanish the gilded one ; and which afterward was applied to the whole region, denoting the golden country. Others are of opinion it had its origin in Quito, and that Belalcazar who made the first expedition in pursuit of it, gave it to all the king- dom of Bogota ; and Pierre de Lempras, having made it known in Venezuela, gave occasion to the expeditions from that country, which were not undertaken for the gilded King, but a territory abounding in gold.f Humboldt gives the same origin to the term, but with circumstances somewhat different. It being reported that the fertile valley of Lagomozo abounded in gold, and on going there and finding the priest of the Temple, before offering his oblations, anointed at least his hands and face with a certain gum, on which was blown, with a pipe, gold dust found in the sand of the rivers, the name of El Dorado was given to him. £ * GumilJa, vol. 1. pp. 137-139. t Oumilla.vqL 2. pp. 131-132. t Humboldt's Pers. Nar. 14 ELDORADO. That a nation called the Omaguas, or Aguas, existed on the Amazon and north of it, in the direction in which Urra pursued his route, who were very numerous and partly civilized, and who possessed articles of gold, is undoubted. D'Acugna, who made a voyage down the Amazon in 1639, by the direction of the Viceroy of Peru, gives a particular account of this nation. " Three hundred and seventy leagues below the mouth of the Napo, begins the province of the Aguas, whom the Spaniards call Omaguas. It extends about two hundred leagues, and is so well peo- pled, that the villages are situated very close to one another. The habitations of the people are in all the islands throughout the whole length of it. This nation is the most intelligent and civilized of all those that dwell along this river. They are all clothed, both men and women ; their garments made of cotton, of which they gather a prodigious quantity, and they not only make stuffs enough for their use, but a great many to sell to their neighbors, who are much pleased with their beauty. One hundred and thirty leagues from the commencement of the province, that is, about two-thirds of the distance down it, comes in the river Potamayo, which rises in the mountains of Pasto in New Grenada. There is abun- dance of gold found in the sand and gravel of this river, and we were as- sured the banks of it were well peopled. The natives that dwell on it are the Yarinas, the Guaraicas, the Purianas, the Tyes, the Abynes, the Cuvas ; and those that are nearest to the source, dwell on both sides of the river, as being the lords and masters of it, and are called the Omaguas : the Aguas of the islands call them the true Omaguas." The first expe- dition made for the discovery of El Dorado, which was by Belalcazar, as will be recollected, was directed to the mountains between Pasto and Popayan, in the very direction where these Omaguas, abounding in gold, are here placed. That they had various gold ornaments, there can be no room to doubt. In the voyage of Orellana, it is related he stopped at a town near the Napo, where the principal men came to him, having gold plates on their breasts, and jewels about them, and informed him of the great wealth there was farther down. D'Acugna speaks also of a place lower down, where these ornaments were seen. The first village which Texeira, in his expedition from the Brazils, met with on this river after he entered it, one hundred and twenty leagues west of Rio Negro, he called the Golden Moon ; because he found some pieces of gold there, which these people had received in exchange from those Indians that wear plates of gold at their ears and noses. " Whence," inquires D'Acugna, " had the people of this village these gold ornaments ? This I made the discovery of by interpreters I had with me. Fourteen leagues below this town, on the north side, comes in the river Yupura, (called Caqueta at its source,) by sailing on which you meet with the river Yquiari, which is that the Portuguese call the Golden River. It springs from a mountain hard by. Here the natives amass gold together in prodigious quantities. They find it all in spangles or grains of good alloy ; they beat these small AURIFEROUS SOILS. 15 grains of gold together, till they form those little plates of gold they hang at their ears and noses. The people that find this gold are Yuma-guaris, for yuma signifies metal, and guar is those that gather it." There seems to be little doubt, that this name, Yuma-guaris, or Yum-aguaris, is no other than Omaguas. Omaguas, says Southey, is not the original and real name of this nation, but Cambevas. It appears further, from the following from d'Acugna, that the Omaguas may have obtained some of their gold ornaments from Peru. " Fifty leagues below the mouth of Potamayo, we found on the other side, (the south) the mouth of another fine large river, which takes its rise near Cuzco, and enters into the Amazon. The natives call it Yotan ; and it is esteemed, above all the rest, for its riches and the great number of people it contains, the names of whom are the Tipanas, the Gavianes, the Omanes, the Morras, the Nannos, the Conomamas, Marravas, and the Omaguas, who are the last nation that dwell upon this river toward Peru. This nation is ac- counted to be very rich in gold, because they wear great plates of gold, hanging at their ears and nostrils." There being such a people on the Amazon and extending north to the source of the Potamayo in the Andes, as also on the south toward Peru, who were the most intelligent and civilized of all the natives on the Am- azon, lived in well-peopled villages, were all clothed in cotton garments, the cloth of which was made by themselves, abounded in gold, and wore gold ornaments ; — it is probable they were the nation whom Urra professes to have seen, and of whom he has no doubt drawn an exaggerated account. The images of gold which he relates he observed in the Temple, we are not required, totally, to disbelieve ; as they may have been obtained by means of their intercourse with Peru. With the opinions expressed by the writers whom I have mentioned, as to the existence of gold in this region, Humboldt fully accords. " The rivers that rise on the eastern declivity of the Andes," he observes, " for instance, the Napo, carry along with them a great deal of gold ore, even when their sources are found in trachytic soils. The notions collected by Acienha, Father Fritz, and Condamine, on the stream-works of gold, south and north of the Rio Uyapes, agree with what I learned of the auri- ferous soil of those countries. However great we may suppose the com- munications that took place before the arrival of the Europeans, they certainly did not draw their gold from the eastern declivity of the Cordil- leras. This declivity is poor in mines anciently worked ; it is almost entirely composed of volcanic rocks in the provinces of Popayan, Pasto, and Quito. The gold of Guyana, probably came from the country east of the Andes. Why may there not be an alluvial auriferous soil to the east of the Andes, as there is to the west ?" The expeditions in pursuit of El Dorado, which have been related, it has been seen, were directed toward the country lying between the Am- azon and the Rio Negro, Other enterprises in pursuit of it, were made 16 EL DORADO. at an early period, to the region lying east of the Oronoke, sometimes from New Grenada, and at others by ascending this river from its mouth. j " Diego cle Ordaz, in 1531, and Alonzo de Herrera, in 1535," observes Humboldt, " directed their journey along the banks of the lower Oronoke, of which he has given the following account : " Ordaz, named Adelantado of all the country which he should conquer between Brazil and the coast of Venezuela, began his expedition by the mouth of the Amazon. He there saw in the hands of the natives, 'eme- ralds as big as a man's fist.' They were, no doubt, pieces of those sausurite-jade, or compact felspar, which we brought home from the Oronoke, and which M. de la Condamine found, in abundance, at the mouth of the Rio Topayos. The Indians related to Ordaz, that on going up during a certain number of suns, toward the west, he would find a large rock of green stone ; but before they reached this pretended moun- tain, a shipwreck put an end to all further discovery. The Spaniards saved themselves in two small vessels. They hastened to get out of the mouth of the Amazon, and the currents led Ordaz to the coast of Paria, where Sedeno had erected a fortress, when he resolved to attempt an expedition up the Oronoke. He ascended it as far as the Meta. The Indian guides he employed, advised him to go up the Meta, where, in advancing toward the west, they expected he would find men clothed, and gold in abundance. Ordaz pursued, in preference, the navigation of the Oronoke ; but the cataracts of Tabaje (perhaps those of Atures,) com- pelled him to terminate his discoveries. " Herrera, the treasurer of the expedition of Ordaz, was sent, in 1533, by the Governor, Geronimus de Ortal, to pursue the discovery of the Oronoke and the Meta. He lost nearly thirteen months between Punta Barima (near its mouth) and the confluence of the Caroni, in constructing fiat-bottomed boats, and making the preparations indispensable for a long voyage. As the Rio Meta, on account of the proximity of its sources and of its tributary streams to the auriferous Cordilleras of New Grenada, enjoyed great celebrity, Herrera attempted to go up this river. He there found nations more civilized than those of the Oronoke. He was killed in battle by a poisoned arrow ; and, when dying, named Alvarede Ordaz, his lieutenant, who led the remains of the expedition (1535) to the fortress of Paria."* I Among the adventurers who sought the Golden City in this region, was De Serpa, who, about this time, came from Spain with three hundred soldiers, and landed at Cumana, intending to cross over to the Oronoke ; but before he reached it, he was attacked by the Wikiris (Guykeries) and overthrown, with the greatest loss, eighteen only of his men being saved. Somewhat later than this, an expedition, on a large scale, was under- taken toward this region, in the same pursuit, by the Marquis Gonzalez de Quesada, Viceroy of New Grenada. He departed with two hundred * Humboldt's Pers. Kar., cliap. xxiv. EXPtM>ITION OF BERREO. 17 men. But, after a journey attended with infinite trouble, he came to Timina in 1543, having lost almost all his men. So fully persuaded, however, was he of the existence of this golden country, that on giving his daughter in marriage to Antonio de Berreo, afterward Governor of the Island of Trinidad, he required, his promise, under oath, to undertake the discovery of it. Berreo, in fulfillment of the promise he had made, and probably him- self entertaining the firmest belief, not only of the reality of such a gold- en country, but that it existed in the direction in which Quesada sought for it, viz : east of the Oronoke, in the interior of Guyana ; set on foot an expedition to discover it, on a still more extensive scale than his father- in-law. He commenced his journey at the head of a troop of seven hun- dred cavalry, and descended the Cassanar, a tributary of the Meta, down which he proceeded into the Oronoke ; but, after a twelvemonth's journey, losing daily some of his men, he could obtain no information of Guyana until he came to the province of.Amopaia, on the last river, "where it was well known and celebrated, which province itself was rich in gold." The inhabitants at first refused to have any intercourse with him, and he had many engagements with them ; but at the end of three months they made peace with him, and presented him with ten images of fine gold, and various plates and crescents. From this place, as soon as sprint opened, he endeavored to enter into Guyana, southward from the Oronoke ; but the rocky and mountainous character of the country, and the thick impervi- ous woods with which it was covered, rendered it impracticable ; and he apprehended opposition from the natives, who had been apprised of his intention. He then descended the Oronoke to its mouth, and there stopped at a province on the south side, which was called Emeria, whose Cacique was Carapana, where he met with a favorable reception ; and findino- it abounding in provisions, he remained there six weeks, and from the Cacique " "learned the proper way to enter into Guyana, and of its riches and magni- ficence." Although he failed in accomplishing his object, the informa- tion which he obtained from this chief and that of Amopaia concerning this region, with the accounts he received after his arrival at Trinidad, from others respecting it, led him still to entertain the idea of exploring and conquering it ; and for that purpose, he sent to .Spain and obtained from the King a patent for its discovery ; and in pursuance of his grant commenced measures to acquire possession of : this country, which brought upon him the enmity of the Charibees, on the Oronoke, and laid the foundation of their subsequent persevering hostility to the Spaniards.* *Cayley'sIiifeofKaleigh. --' ..v c. £s CHAPTER II. ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS MADE BY RALEIGH TO GUYANA — NOTICE OF HIS NARRATIVE GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF EL DORADO IN THE INTERIOR OF IT, SITUATED UPON A GREAT LAKE — OPINIONS OF GEOGRAPHERS AS TO THE EXISTENCE AND SITUATION OF SUCH A LAKE. But it was the celebrated expedition of Sir Walter Raleigh to Guyana, which fixed in general opinion the supposed Golden City, or El Dorado, in this region. The causes which led to it have been related. It has been seen, that he was engaged, from an early period of his life, in voya- ges of discovery to foreign parts, and for several years in attempts to colonize Virginia ; and although his favorite pursuit, had been for some time interrupted by his employment in public affairs, as soon as the dis- satisfaction of the Queen with him, and his exile from court, led him to seek the retirement of a country residence, his attention was again turned to it ; and the discovery of the Golden City, or El Dorado — believed by him to be situated in Guyana — and the conquest of that country, occupied his mind ; but which appear to have been some time before in his con- templation, and required only the circumstances in which he was now placed, to give them life and activity to exert a controlling influence over his thoughts. " Many years before," he observes in the preface to his narrative, " I had knowledge by relation of that mighty, rich and beautiful Empire of Guy- ana, and of that great and golden city, which the Spaniards call El Dorado, and the naturals, Manoa, &c."* From the time he first entertained this notion, he made it his business to collect whatever information might be obtained relative to this country, and the means of entering it. He then drew up instructions for an old experienced naval officer, whom he sent to take a view of the coast ; and who returned with a favorable report of the riches of the country, and the possibility of discovering and subduing it. Being thus provided with information respecting it, and encouraged by the hostility of the Charibees on the Oronoke to the Spaniards, he prepared an expedition to it in 1595, consisting of several vessels, and which he accompanied himself. It sailed from Plymouth on the sixth of February in that year, and arrived at Trinidad the twenty-second of March, where he remained several weeks : and " assembling all the Captains in the island, who were enemies to Berreo, (there being some there of other countries, who had been taken prisoners by them,) by an interpreter he informed them, that he was the servant of a powerful Queen of the North, who was an enemy to the * 2nd Cayley, vol. 1., p. 159. THE CHARIBEES. 1£ Spaniards in consequence of theu tyranny, and liberated those nations; that were oppressed by them ; and that she had sent him to free the Cha« xibees also from them, and to defend Guyana from their invasion and con- quest." In the course of his address, "he showed them her portrait, which they much admired ;" and he so won their good- will, that they called the Queen, Ezrabeta Cassipuna Aequerawona, in the Charibee language — which is, Elizabeth the Great Princess." His object in re- maining there, was partly to be revenged of Berreo for having enticed away four of his men, and also to collect information concerning Guyana and the City of El Dorado. For the former object he made ci attack on the fort of St. Joseph, and after putting the garrison to the sword, took him prisoner ; and while he had him in his power, obtained from him, as; far as he could, the intelligence he desired ,• — and among other accounts, which he received from him, was a relation which Berreo stated a certain Spaniard, Juan Martinez, had made to him, who professed to have travel- led to the Golden City. Raleigh, on this information and that he had re« ceived from other Spariards, resolved to attempt the discovery of Guyana* Finding it not practicable to enter the Oronoke through any of its branches with his ships, he left them at Trinidad, and proceeded up the river with four boats and one hundred men ; and taking an Indian pilot, ascended it three hundred miles, to the residence of a Charibee chief, by name Topia- wari, by whom he was very hospitably received. The Charibees were then, and still continue, the principal nation on the lower Oronoke. They are alsa spread over nearly the whole of British and French Guyana ; and wher ever they are found, hold a predominant sway — having subdued most of the surrounding tribes, and exterminated a number. They are the same nation who, at the period of their discovery by Columbus, occupied that portion of the West Indian Isles called the Antilles, or Windward Islands. Raleigh made inquiries of this chief respecting Guyana, to which he gave replies, which were well calculated to encourage him in prosecuting the enterprise. He then proceeded up the river one hundred miles farther* to the Caroli, which falls into it from the south ; — where, he relates, he dis- covered a mine of gold, and great appearance of the ore in the rocks generally. On his return, he stopped again at the residence of this chief, with whom he further conferred respecting Guyana and the means of en- tering it. He concluded, however, to defer an attempt to invade and con- quer it, to a future period ; for which he assigns several reasons. Having thus made an alliance with him, and promised to return the next year, taking his son with him as a pledge of his friendship, he returned to Trinidad, and from thence proceeded back to England.* The information which he states he collected in this expedition, on the Oronoke, con- firmed the previous accounts he had received in Trinidad, of the existence of a rich and splendid city in Guyana, called Manoa; — and by the Spaniards, El Dorado ; — and to which the circumstance was now added, that it was situated upon a great lake, _ ^ * Cay ley, vol. 1. ch. it. 20 EL DORADO, On his return to England, he published an account of his voyage, and the particulars he had learned of the country he had visited, giving the greatest assurance, that in the expectations he had formed of its riches, he had not been disappointed. But from the dedication it appears, it was not received, at first, in England, in the manner the most satisfactory to him. It is probable, that his absence from his country was too short to extinguish the jealousy of his rivals in power. What his personal recep- tion was with the Queen, has not been related ; but it is clear he was not admitted to her court, in the first instance, at least.* Raleigh, agreeably to his promise to the Charibee chief, by the aid of his friends fitted out, the next year, a second expedition to Guyana, con- sisting of two vessels, the command of which was given to Mr. Lawrence Keymis ; but which he was prevented attending in person, England being at that time at war with Spain, and a powerful fleet, with a large land force to accompany it, being prepared to attack Cadiz. And while Essex was appointed Commander-in-chief of the army, Lord Effingham had the direction of the fleet, which was divided into four squadrons, one of which was assigned to Raleigh ; — a circumstance which shows that, although he was not reinstated in the favor of the Queen, he still maintained a high reputation in England, and that his abilities were availed of, whew the wants of his country require them.f v Keymis left England on the twenty-sixth of January, 1596, and arrived on the coast of Cayenne, in latitude 1° 46' north, and sailed along it, stopping at. several places, till he came to the Oronoke, which he ascended to the residence of the Charibee chief. But, on his arrival there, he learned he was dead. His country, too, had been deserted by its inhabit- ants, and no one was found there ; all the Indians on that side of the rivet- having fled and dispersed themselves, probably in consequence of the Span- iards — with whom they were at enmity, and against whom Raleigh offered to protect them — having arrived since he left, and made a settlement there of some twenty houses, and erected a fort on an island opposite the Caroli. Keymis, therefore, made no attempt to prosecute discoveries in the country, and returned to England. After his return, he published an account of his voyage ; and not the least discouraged in the pursuit of the enterprise in which he had taken a part, by the disappointment he had met with, he says in it — " Myself and the remains of my few years have been bequeathed wholly to Raleana, (which name he gives Guyana in com- pliment to Raleigh,) and all my thoughts live only in that action." This determination was most thoroughly carried into execution ; — having lost his life in an enterprise undertaken a number of years after, for this object, in which he was a principal actor.J t No sooner was Raleigh discharged from the public service, by the return of the English fleet from the expedition against Cadiz, than he made pre- parations for renewing the prosecution of this enterprise ; and the next . "Oiyiey . vol. 1. ?. 8BS. t Cayley, vol. 1, pp. 2&-2S6. -, Cayley'a Life of ilaleish, vol. 3, Appendix, Mo. X. SITUATION OF THE CITY. 21 year after the voyage of Keymis, fitted out a stout pinnace, the command of which was given to Captain Leonard Berne,* who left England on the fourteenth of October, 1596, and on the twenty-seventh of February, 1597, made the coast of Cayenne. He sailed along the coast of Guyana^ stopping at different places, until he came to the river Corentine. While in this river, information was given him that three hundred Spaniards were on the Essequibo ; on which he was induced to leave it, and abandon the enterprise he had undertaken ; and steering for the West Indies, returned to England. He was accompanied by Mr. Thomas Masham, who wrote an account of the voyage.f , The relation which Sir Walter Raleigh gives of the existence of the so long rumored City of El Dorado, in the interior of Guyana, revived again the subject, which was beginning to lose its interest, even in the minds of the Spaniards, after their many unavailing efforts to discover it ; for it was now placed in a region to which their enterprises in search of it had never penetrated. To the English, the Dutch, and the French, who were all engaged in forming settlements in the new hemisphere — but whose attention had not, until then, been directed to South America, where the field of discovery and conquest was monopolized by the Spaniards and Portuguese — this splendid and dazzling object was presented, in a great degree, with the charm of novelty. These relations which I propose to examine, are brief, but explicit. " I have been assured" says Raleigh, " by such as have seen Manoa, the. imperial city of Guyana which the Spaniards call El Dorado, for the great- ness, the richness, and the excellent seat, far excelleth any of the world, at least so much of the world as is known to the Spanish nation. It is founded on a lake of Salt water, two hundred leagues long.'''' \ , And to account for the wealth and splendor of the city of Manoa, he gives a relation made to him by the Charibee chief on the Oronoke, with whom he made an alliance, of an invasion of Guyana by '•' a nation of civil and apparelled people," which Raleigh supposes to be an emigration of one of the Incas of Peru, who established himself in it, and built this city. He also states, that he was informed by an Indian chief on the Caroli, that at the head of it was a great lake, called Cassipa, from which this river takes its rise ; and also the Arvi, which falls into the Oronoke farther- west, and " that it is so large, that it is above a day's journey for one of their canoes to cross, — which may be some forty miles, — in which fall various rivers ; (rather from which they rise,) and that in the summer time, when it discharges itself by those branches, a great quantity of grains of gold are found there." § The lake termed Cassipa by Raleigh, is called by Keymis and Berrie, — who made the two voyages after him to this region, — from accounts they received on the coast of Guyana, Parimu, which is the epilation that in later times has been given tu it. * Cayley, vol. 1. p. 303. J Cnyley. vol. 2. pp. 179-180. t Cayley vol 1. pp. 179-180. § Cayley, vol. 1. pp. 2ES-247. 22 ELDORADO. In the natural order, the first inquiry that arises on these relations is, ■Whether there in reality exists a large lake in the interior of Guyana. On this subject, geographers did not at first entertain any doubt. The narrative of Raleigh in this respect, whatever might be thought of it in others, was fully believed, and the lake was immediately placed on the maps of Guyana. To that narrative it owes its first appearance there. Various opinions were subsequently entertained respecting its locality, and different positions assigned to it. Afterward, the existence of any such lake was doubted ; and it was finally entirely expunged from the maps. Guyana is that portion of South America which extends along the At- lantic coast, from the Oronoke to the Amazon, and is embraced between these rivers, which are united by the junction of the Cassiquiari, one of the head branches of the former, with the Rio Negro, which falls into the Amazon, constituting it an island. Through this region passes the second great chain of mountains that crosses South America, called the Cordil- lera of Parima. From the centre of it various rivers flow in different directions ; some northwardly into the Oronoke, others southwardly into the Rio Branco, which falls into the Rio Negro, a branch of the Amazon, and others eastwardly into the Atlantic Ocean, which have given their names to the European colonies established on it, viz: Essequibo, Deme- Tara, Berbice, Surinam, and Cayenne ; the three first of which belong to Great Britain, Surinam to Holland, and Cayenne to France. Of these rivers, the Essequibo is the most considerable, and the first south of the Oronoke, from which it is distant about one hundred miles. Its mouth forms a spacious bay, from fifteen to twenty miles wide, and from thirty miles upward is filled with low and beautiful islands. It is free from ob- structions about eighty miles, when commences a series of falls. Three Jhundred miles from its mouth, it receives the Rippununi, which flows from the Cordillera of Parima, the main stream rising also from the same chain which runs along the rear of the colonies. Of this liver, very worthy mention is made by Lawrence Keymis, who com- manded Raleigh's second expedition. In sailing from Cayenne to the Oronoke, he took notice of it, and thus describes it. The Indians, to show the worthiness of D'Essekebe, for it is very large, and full of islands at Its mouth, call it the Brother of the Oronoke. * It is called D'Essekebe, l>eing first discovered by the Portuguese, who named it Rio D'Esse- kebe. The coast of Guyana, from the Oronoke to Cayenne, is low and level, and of alluvial formation. In sailing toward it, on approaching the land, no hills or prominences of any kind are seen, but a uniform flat surface as far as the eye extends, in every direction except at Cayenne, where seve- ral detached pyramidal hills strike the coast. This alluvial formation is continually increasing, by the sediment deposited upon it by the various livers which descend from the interior, and by the flood that rushes with * Cayley's Life ofttal. vol. 2. p 328 MAP OF HONDIUS. 23 violence from the Amazon in a northwesterly direction along it, and for- cing its way through the Boca del Chica, or Dragon's Mouth, between Paria and Trinidad, into the Gulf of Mexico, there takes the name of the Gulf Stream. On advancing into the interior of Guyana, beyond the alluvial formation rising gradually upon the mountainous region, a diver- sified country appears. Scattered hills of various elevations, some covered with forests, others naked at the summit, fill the prospect. The dense forests are also occasionally broken by open savannas.* The locality which has been generally given to this lake, is in the second of the three great chains of mountains which cross South America, thus described by Humboldt : " The first, called the Cordillera of the coast, of which the highest summit is the Cilia of Caraccas, and which is linked to the Andes of New Grenada, stretches in the tenth degree of North latitude from Quimboya and Barquesimento, to the promontory of Paria. The second extends between the parallels of three degrees and seven degrees from the mouths of the Guaviari and Meta to the sources of the Oronoke, thence eastward to the Essequibo in Dutch Guyana, and the Maroni (Marawini) in Cayenne* I call this chain the Cordillera of Parima. It is less a chain than a col- lection of granitic mountains, separated by small plains, without being everywhere disposed in lines. It is not connected with the Andes of New Grenada, but is separated from them by a space of eighty leagues broad. A third chain, the Cordillera of Chiquito, unites in sixteen degrees and eighteen degrees South latitude, the Andes of Peru to the mountains of Bra- zil. These three transverse chains are separated by tracts entirely level ; the plains of Caraccas, or the lower Oronoke ; the plains of the Amazon and the Rio Negro ; and the plains of Buenos Ayres, on the La Plata. The two tracts placed at the extremities of South America, are savannas or steppes ; pasturage without trees. The intermediate basin, which receives the equinoctial rains during the whole year, is almost entirely one vast forest, in which no other road is known than the rivers. That strength of vegetation which conceals the soil, renders also the uniformity of its surface less perceptible, and the plains of Caraccas and La Plata alone bear this name." f Having given this account of some of the geographical features of this region, I will now relate, from the same author, in what manner the lake Parima was first introduced into the maps, and the mutations of opinions which occurred among geographers as to the existence of it, its character and position, during the space of three centuries. " Hondius, a geographer of Holland, was the first to insert it in his map of Guyana, published in 1599, four years after the voyage of Raleigh, and founded entirely upon his narrative. It was entitled, ' Nieuw Carte von bet wonderbare landt Guyana, besochtd von Sir Walter Raleigh, 1594 — 1596 ;' (New Map of the wonderful land Guyana, discovered by Sir W. R., 1594-1596.) Like Raleigh, he makes the rivers Caroni * YVaterton's Travels in South America. T Humboldt's Pers. Nar. ch. xvii. 24 ELDORADO. and Arvi ; branches of the Oronoke, to issue from lake Cassipa, in the heart of Guyana. In posterior maps, as that of Sansom in 1656 and 1669, the river Caura, another tributary, is made to issue from it. Hon- dius, and other geographers, assigned gradually a more southern latitude to it, and it was detached from the Carom and Arvi, and took the name of lake Parima. Sansom in 1680, De Lisle in 1700, and D'Anville, in the first edition of his map, (L'Amerique Meridionale,) effaced the lake Pa- rima, but still religiously kept to the lake Cassipa. D'Anville, in the second edition of his map, in 1760, placed on it both the lake Cassipa and the lake Parima. La Cruz, who made his great map of South America in 1775, preserved this lake, but has given it the oblong form of lake Cassipa ; while of the ancient lake Parima, the axis was from east to west. His map has been followed by all subsequent geographers. He was too well informed by the accounts of the missionaries, respecting the sources of the Caura, not to omit the Cassipa. Four years after the map of La Cruz, was published that of Caulin ; who attended the expedition under the command of Jose Antonio Solano, for the regulation of boundaries, but who never proceeded farther than San Fernando de Atabapo, on the Oronoke, one hundred and sixty leagues from this pretended lake Parima, which was founded entirely on the testimony Solano collected from the Indians. This journal is in perpetual contradiction to the map prefixed to it. The author developes the circum- stances that gave rise to the fable of lake Parima ; but the map restores the lake, placing it, however, far from the sources of the Oronoke, to the east of the Rio Branco. Two maps traced by him in 1756, were reduced in 1778 into one, and completed, according to pretended discoveries by Sarville ; who makes the lake Amucu, — which is the source of the Maho, one of the tributaries of the Branco, and rises near the Essequibo, — to be the lake Parima."* Humboldt, having recited the different opinions which have been enter- tained regarding the existence and situation of this lake, presents his own views on the subject, formed upon a minute and careful investiga- tion : " In the latitude of four degrees, or four and a half, is a long and narrow Cordillera, viz : that of Pacaraimo, Quimiropaca, and Ucucuamo • which, stretching from east to southwest, unites the group of the moun- tains of Parima to the mountains of French and Dutch Guyana. It di- vides its waters between the Carony, the Rippununi, and the Rio Branco. On the northwest of the Cordillera of Pacaraimo descend the Nocopro, the Paraguamusi and the Paragua, which fall into the Carony. On the northeast, the Rippununi, a tributary stream of the Essequibo. Toward the south the Tacutu and the Urariquera, form, together, the famous Rio Parima, or Rio Branco," (and at their junction is the Portuguese fort St. Joachim. The Urariquera, or western branch, is formed of the Urari- |Bara and the Parima, which name is also applied to the whole stream, * Humboldt's Pas. Nar., cli. xvii and xxiv. THE WHITE SEA. 25 after the junction of the two branches, or the Branco. The Tacutu, which flows from the east, receives from the north, the Maho ; which is joined by a small stream, the Pirara, before it enters the Tacutu. All these tributaries of the two branches flow from this mountainous chain.) " The rivers at the foot of the mountains of Pacaraimo, are subject to frequent overflowings. Above Santa Rosa, the right bank of the Urari- para, a tributary stream of the Urariquera, or western branch of the Rio Branco, is called el Valle de la Inundation. C4reat pools also are found between the Rio Parima and the Xurumu More to the west, the Canno Pirara, a tributary stream of the Mahu, issues from a lake covered with rushes. This is the lake Amucu, described by Nicholas Hortsman, and respecting which, some Portuguese of Barcelos, who had visited the Rio Branco, gave me precise notions during my stay at San Carlos del Rio Negro. The lake Amucu is several leagues broad, and contains two small islands. The Rippununi approaches very near this lake ; but does not communicate with it. The portage between the Rippununi and the Maho is farther north, where the mountain of Ucucuamo rises, which the natives still call the mountain of gold. They advised Hortsman to seek around the Rio Mahu for a mine of silver, (no doubt mica with large plates,) of diamonds, and of emeralds. He found nothing but rock crys- tals The White Sea is nothing but the Rio Parima, which is still called the white river — Rio Blanco, or Rio des Aguas Blancas — and runs through and inundates the whole of this land. The name of Rippununi is given to the White Sea on the most ancient maps ; which identifies the place of the fable — since, of all the tributary streams of the Rio Esse- quibo, the Rippununi is nearest to the lake Amucu. I " In support of what I here advance, I shall appeal to a very respectable testimony, that of Father Caulin : ' When I inquired of the Indians, (says the missionary, who sojourned longer than I, on the banks of the lower Oronoke,) what Parima was ; they answered, that it was nothing more than a river that issued from a chain of mountains, the opposite sides of which furnished waters to the Essequibo. 5 " Caulin, knowing nothing of lake Amucu, attributes the erroneous notion of an inland sea to the inundations of the plains. " I have no doubt," he says, " that one of the upper branches of the Rio Branco, is that very Rio Parima which the Spaniards have taken for a lake From the whole of these statements, it follows : 1 . That the laguna Rippununi, or Parima of Raleigh, is an imaginary lake formed by the lake Amucu, and the tribu- tary streams of the Urariquera, (the western branch of the Branco,) which often overflow their banks. 2. That the laguna Parima of Sur- ville's map, is the lake Amucu which gives rise to the Rio Pirara, and conjointly with the Mahu, Tacutu, the Urariquera, Rio Parima, properly so called, form the Rio Branco." There is, perhaps, no region in South America so little known as this, which Humboldt has described as the locality of the lake. It has never yet been passed over by any of the civilized race, who has given an ac 26 EL DORADO. count of it; and all the information known of it in Europe, is conjectural founded on intelligence obtained by three or four travellers, respecting the countries bordering on it, on the east and west. A journey has never yet been made, so far as is known, by any other than the wild inhabitants of that region, either westward from the sources of the Essequibo to the Oronoke, or eastward from the Oronoke to this river. A veil of obscurity has hung over its thick forests and lofty mountains, from which, ever since the close of the sixteenth century, wonderful tales have issued and been spread by the Indians, to amuse the credulity of Europeans. The only instances in which even its confines have been visited by travellers, are, remarks Humboldt, the following: 1. In 1735, Nicholas Hortsman, who came from the Essequibo, passed up the Rippununi, and then by a short portage to the Pirara, a tributary of the Tacutu, by which he descended to the Branco, and proceeded to the Brazils. 2. Don Antonio Santos, in pursuit of El Bprado in 1775, ascended the Caroni, and then one of its branches, the Paragua, and crossing over the Cordillera came to the Uraripara, which falls into the western branch of the Branco, each passing over the extremes to the east and west of this region. 3. In 1793, Colonel Barata, of the first regiment of the line, of Para, went twice from the Amazon to Surinam, on affairs of his government, by the same portage of Rippununi, which Hortsman went over. 4. Still more recently, in the month of February, 1811, some English and Dutch colo- nists arrived at the portage of Rippununi, to solicit from the commander of the Rio Negro, permission to proceed to the Rio Branco ; and the com- mandant having granted their request, these colonists arrived at St. Joa- chim, in their boats." Humboldt himself, did not proceed up the Oronoke, but a short distance beyond Esmeralda, the last Christian post on it, which is some degrees west of the locality generally given to this lake. The information which he obtained of this region, on which he founds the views he has presented of it, was derived from the new maps in the hydrographical depot of Bra- zil, in which are very minutely laid down, the various streams that de- scend southwardly from the Cordillera of Parima ; from some communi- cations made to him respecting them, by Portuguese, whom he saw at San Carlos, on the Rio Negro, and from the journals of Hortsman and Santos, of both of which he had a perusal. Respecting a region so little known, and so interesting, as the space between the sources of the Oronoke and Essequibo, in which the lake Parima has been generally placed, any additional information cannot but be desirable. That which Humboldt obtained was received in Spanish and Portuguese territories, on the west of this district. It must be obvious, however, from a sight of the map, that the borders of the Essequibo on the opposite side — the name of one of whose branches, the Rippununi, has been sometimes given to the lake — furnishes the most favorable channel •to obtain intelligence respecting it. It was on the coast of Guyana that the name, Parima, was first heard applied to it. Raleigh, himself, i»ad THE ESSEQUIBO. 37 Only a general idea of the situation of the lake Cassipa, but Keymis and Berrie, who commanded the two succeeding expeditions, sent out by him to these regions, heard of a lake in the interior of Guyana called Parima, and of its precise locality. On the Essequibo river, he was informed, "that it lieth southerly into the land, and from the mouth they pass into the head in twenty days ; when, taking their provision, they carry it on their shoulders one day's journey. Afterward, they return for their canoes, and bear them to the side of a lake, which the Jaos call Ropo- nowini, the Charibees Parima ; which is of such bigness, that they know no difference between it and the main sea. There are infinite numbers of canoes in this lake, and I suppose it is no other than that on which Manoa standeth." * On the Corentine river, Berrie was informed by an Indian, who came from the Essequibo, " that the Essequibo leads so far into the country, as to be within a day's journey of the lake Parima, and that the Corentine doth meet it up in this land;" inconsequence of which information, "he intended to have discovered a passage into that rich city." f He actually proceeded some distance up this river in his boats ; but when he had passed the first falls he heard accounts of the ferocious character of the Ackoways, and that five days farther there was another fall, which was not passable. He was also told, that by ascending the river farther !* he would make those Indians his enemies," which he believed would be to the disadvantage of Raleigh, when he came himself; as he was informed there was on this river great store of gold. He therefore returned with his boats to the ship, and left the river. Having, as I have observed in the Introduction, visited, some years since, British Guyana, through which the Essequibo river flows, several of whose branches rise in the locality generally given to the lake Parima ; 1 was very desirous of obtaining some information respecting it, and the state of the population about it, in a region so favorable for the purpose, and will relate the facts I was able to collect on the subject. A work by a historian of Holland, Hartsinck, entitled ' Beschry ving van Guyana,' (Description of Guyana,) published in 1770, affording some information on the subject, came to my knowledge, from which I make the following extract : " The Essequibo river sixty miles from its mouth, receives the Mazerouni. The Cayouni unites with the Mazerouni four or five miles before the river falls into the Essequibo. The first port on the Essequibo, called Arinda, is on an island at the commencement of the falls. After passing them, on the west side, comes the river Arassarou, and farther upon the same side, the Siperouni. About eight miles higher, the Essequibo receives the Rippununi. The number of falls, as far as this river, is thirty-nine. The Rippununi is seventy miles in length ; flowing first for half the distance from the south, and in the other half pursuing a course of east-northeast. West of the point where it makes this turn, is a small river which flows from a lake, nearly half an hour's * Cayley, vol. 2. p 328. f Cayley, vol. 3. p, 377. 28 ELDORADO.' distance, about four miles long and two broad. Two miles west of this lake is a larger one, called the lake Amucu, nine or ten miles long and five or six broad, overgrown with reeds, and having some islands in it. From this lake, on the south side, flows the river Pirara, which unites with the Maho, both which then join the Tacutu, which falls into the Rio Branco, called by the Portuguese Rio Blanco, or the White river, and then into the Rio Negro, or the Black river, so that a passage may be made from our settlements by these rivers, through the country to the river Amazon. Lake Parima, which by many travellers is thought to be even the Golden Dorado, which is to be found only in the imagination of Sir Walter Raleigh and the Spaniards, according to accounts of the Spanish court transmitted to M. D'Anville, and some information from our settlements, is established certainly to be between the Mazerouni and Cay- ouni, west of lake Amucu and east of the Oronoke ; and is said to be a very great and deep lake. I will not dilate on its shape and situation, and the relations made in former times of the inhabitants on its borders, their riches, &c. Yet we can assure the reader, that none of the European settlements are better adapted for the discovery of the interior of Guyana, between the Rio Negro and the Atlantic Ocean, than those of Essequibo ; considering the course of this river, the friendship of the Indians, and their ancient and implacable enmity to the Spaniards. The Mazerouni runs north-eastwardly, in a right line out of lake Parima. The Cayouni receives the river Menou, on which the Spaniards had a mission ; farther up it receives the Iruari, which flows from the southwest, also, out of this lake." In the above extract, it will be seen that the existence of lake Parima is positively stated by this writer; and the locality which he gives to it agrees with that assigned to it by D'Anville, who, according to Humboldt, makes it communicate with the Essequibo, by the Mazerouni and Cayouni. The following information I received on this subject from a very authentic source, and which places the lake in the same locality. A gentleman who administered the government of the colony of Demerara, from the year 1765, to 1771, and afterward removed to the United States, in answer to some inquiries I made of him on the subject, gave me the following information : That his public functions leading him frequently to the Essequibo river, to attend at the seat of government of the colony of that name, to which that of Demerara was subordinate, lake Parima became a subject of attention to him, from the relations of the Indians ; and his curiosity being excited respecting it, he directed the commander of one of the military posts to proceed up the river to its source, and inquire into it; — who, on his return gave the following statement, founded in his own personal observation, that what was called lake Parima, was an inunda- tion of a tract of land at the head of that river, during the rainy season ; from the vast quantity of water, that falls in that region, not being able immediately to discharge itself into the several streams that flow out of it ; but which happens in the dry season, when the tract becomes perfectly DEMERARA COMMISSION. 29 bare, except that there remains a small pond ; and that the neighboring Indians daily come to the spot, before sunrise, to gather a substance which they called salt ; — a quantity of which was brought and delivered to him by the officer, which, on examination, he found to be saltpetre. , • Accounts which I received from several other sources in that country, further elucidate this subject. I had the perusal of a journal, made by one of a commission sent by the government of Demerara, in 1810, to the Charibee chief, or Cacique, at the sources of the Essequibo river, who styles himself king of all the Indians in British Guyana. This commis- sion originated in the following circumstance : — During that year, he descended this river, and made a visit to the government of Demerara, at Georgetown, to open the way for an amicable treaty with it ; and to pro- mote it, made strong representations of the extent and power of his nation, and the number of men whom he could bring into the field. Of the correctness of his statement, the Governor and court of policy were una- ble to form any opinion ; f6r, the remote country where he resided, was entirely unknown ; not only never having been described by any travel- ler, but had been very rarely visited by any colonist, from the impedi- ments existing to ascending the Essequibo, by the great number of falls in it, and the dread of the native tribes at its sources, including the Cha- ribees — generally considered to be of a very ferocious character. The Government was, therefore, induced to appoint a commission to visit him. The individuals composing it, are the English and Dutch colonists, men- tioned by Humboldt, as the fourth instance in which this region has been visited by travellers of European origin. They were the following per- sons :— Dr. Hancock, a medical gentleman, a native of the United States then resident in Demerara, who had devoted much attention to the natu- ral history of Guyana, and was placed at the head of this commission. Captain S , of the burgher militia, and the third, a gentleman long resident in that colony, and well-acquainted wifti it. Dr. Hancock re- moved some years after to London, and published a work on his favorite subject ; and, in 1834, a pamphlet entitled " Observations on Guyana," in which he proposes a plan for colonizing the interior of it. and refers to this expedition. I have been in expectation of seeing a more extended work from his pen, on that country — having travelled extensively about it — but saw his death some time since announced. Captain S. kept a journal, which is a plain narrative of events, and is the one I have mentioned, i . From this journal I extract the following remarks, from which it ap- pears that the region at the head of the Essequibo, from which the Rippu- nuni and Siperouni flow easterly into it, and the Pirara and Maho south- wardly, into the Tacutu, is a high table- land, on which the mountains that form part of the Cordillera of Parima, which passes through it, are arranged in separate groups, between which there are extensive savan- nas, sometimes inundated ; — which is agreeable to the account Humboldt gives of the Cordillera of Parima, " that it is less a chain, than a collec- tion of granitic mountains, separated by small plains, and without being 3Q ELDORADO, everywhere disposed in lines :" and that there is a short portage from the Rippununi to the Pirara, which the commissioners verified by passing through this channel of communication to the Portuguese fort St. Joachim, on the Rio Branco — a fact also stated by Humboldt. This extract also contains some particulars relative to the state of the population in this re* gion. The commissioners left the post on. the Mazerouni, and ascended the Essequibo, December sixth, 1810. On the twenty-fourth they passed the twenty-eighth fall, a little below the Siperouni, and came to the mouth of the Rippununi on the first January. On the fourth January, they proceeded up this tributary as far as the Anayoca creek, which comes into it— and rises out of a range of mountains. They landed there, and walked through the forest a quarter of a mile, where a savanna opened before them ; and beyond it, as far the e3 r e could reach, a chain of mountains appeared, ex- tending from north to south, to which they walked two hours and a half. From these mountains the Siperouni, which has many and heavy falls in it, takes its rise. They found a settlement of Macoussies, between the mountains, of ten large houses, and about one hundred Indians. On the eighth January they came to another settlement, and in two hours after, to a very high, brown mountain — the rocks on it, scattered in a terrible manner, as if the country had been lately destroyed by fire : passed, then, over mountains resembling marble. On the ninth, they came to the mountains Massara, a long range, along which they proceeded in a south- erly direction, and arrived at mount Itaka, the last of the chain — half- way up which was a settlement of Macoussies, of about twelve houses j one of which the journalist measured, which was forty-two feet square, and thirty-six feet high, in which were forty hammocks. On the tenth, they went back on an easterly course to the Rippununi, having before them a range of very high mountains, called Conoko— signifying islands — which were of an immense length, stretching northeast and southwest. Southeast were the mountains Pitjabo, which separate the Portuguese jurisdiction ; and at mount Maho, one of the chain, is a creek, or river, (which, in a sketch annexed to the journal, is called the Maho). They passed an Ieta-bush, about one hundred rods in length, where the Portu. guese once came when the savanna was under water, and drew their canoes to the Rippununi ; and went through valleys abounding with groves of the same trees, and found marks where they had commenced digging a passage for their canoes ; but they appear to have given up the plan. The ground where they now draw them is plainly to be seen. On the eleventh, the commissioners came to Arriwasikies, a Charibee chief, where they remained some days, and held a conference with the Indians, who came in from different parts. On the thirty-first, proceeded eighteen miles, to a field of four acres, under the mountains Conoko, which the Macoussies had planted for him — for which, he paid with the articles he had received from Government. On the fifth February, they resumed their course up tne Rmoununi. and ascended it for eight days with diffi- DEMERARA COMMISSION. 31 culty — being obliged to carry their canoe around falls, or drag it over shoals : at length, on the thirteenth, they came to a landing-place, which led to the residence of the Charibee chief, or Cacique ; and, on the fif- teenth, they proceeded to it, and after passing over mountains, came to a cabin of Wapisanas, having a single family, who welcomed them most cordially — and then to a hill on which were four houses of Atorays, circular, and about twenty feet diameter, and was received by a fine young Atoray, Narressibi, who invited them to his settlement, which was a quarter of a mile distant ; to which they went, and found five houses, and about thirty Indians, besides a large cabin thirty or more feet in length, nearly as wide, semi-circular, and open at both ends. In the morning, on the seventeenth, they proceeded, attended by about twenty Indians, to the residence of the Charibee chief. It was on the top of a hill ; and as soon as they appeared on one opposite, they were saluted by music from it — beating of drums, and playing of flutes and pipes. They were conducted by the Indian with whom they last staid, to an open cabin, where the Cacique, Mahanerwa, received them, sitting on a hamack. They were next welcomed by his wife, son, and son-in-law, in a most friendly manner. " He then offered me," says the journalist, " a seat next to him, and more than twelve women presented him with drink ; of each of which he drank, which pleased them." He mentions the following ceremony, performed on his entrance : Each person came before him and welcomed him, by pointing, or bending, the fore-finger of his right hand to his face. The settlement consisted of about ten houses, well filled with Charibees, Maconssies, and Wapisanas. They were industrious, and the chief was building a new house, forty feet by twenty-five feet, which, he said, was intended for the commissioners. He never works, and what was very remarkable, every person dressed himself off to the best advantage but him- self. The whole evening and night were spent with music, dancing, and singing. After completing the purpose of their visit to the Cacique, the commis- sioners proceeded to Moracca, a landing on the Rippununi, from which they set off for the river Pirara, at the foot of mount Maho ; and going over hills and valleys, and crossing the Pirara in five places on horse- back, they arrived at their destination at noon, where they found two canoes. The next daj' - at 1 p. m. they descended this stream, and passed, on the right, the river Maho — at 5 p.m. they passed the Tacutu, on the left, and landed at 6 p. m. for the night. The next day, they went down the Tacutu and stopped again at night. On the eleventh March, at 1 A. M., they went on, and at 1 p. m. arrived at fort St. Joachim, situated at the junction of the Tacutu with the Branco. On their return, they went up these streams to the landing-place of the Pirara creek. On the thirtieth March, at 9 a. m., they set out on foot for Morocca, on the Rippununi, and reached it at 8 p. m., after a walk of eighteen to twenty miles, which is the portage that separates the waters 32 ELDORADO. which flow northeasterly into the Essequibo, from those winch descend southerly into the Branco. On Monday, seventeenth April, they proceeded, at 3 p. M.j by moonlight, and at half-past four, passed Maowriekero creek, which flows from the north — half-past twelve, crossed Wirrewiryko creek, which comes in from southwest ; at 3 p. m. reached Riva creek, (or river,) which comes in from S. southwest, a large creek. About seventy miles up, it has another creek, called Koitaroo, on its right side. Going up the creek about one and a half days, there is a landing, to walk in one and a half days to Mahanerwa's, and the nearest way that leads to him, passes be- twixt mountains. In this journal, no mention is made of the Xurumu, which Humboldt, from information received from the Portuguese, says, is a tributary of the Tacutu. And the journalist would not have omitted to speak of it, if he had seen it in his passage to fort St. Joachim, for he mentions pass- ing the Maho at its junction with the Pirara. May not this be the Parima, which might be changed into Parumu or Xurumu ? In another respect this journal differs from the maps. It mentions the Riva as a branch of the Rippununi on the east, and that the Koitaro (the Kardaru of the Portuguese,) is a trihntary of the Riva. Tn the maps, the Riva is not mentioned, and the Koitaro is made a tributary of the Rip- pununi. The savanna, over which the commissioners crossed, when they went from the Rippununi to the Maconssie mountains, the lower pari of which, the journalist observes, is sometimes under water, and that the Pirara and Maho rise out of mount Maho, at the south of it, must be the basin of the lake Amucu, as Hartsinck makes the Pirara flow from it, and is agreeable to what Humboldt states of the source of this stream. •i It is also fully established by Dr. Hancock, who was at the head of this commission, in the following remarks, which I extract from his " Obser- vations on Guyana,'"' which contains other geographical information in regard to this region : i " On proceeding up the Essequibo, we met with three great chains of cataracts ; or rapids ; the first chain commencing at Aretaka, sixty miles from the mouth. The bed of the river in the dry season, discovers vast quantities of vitrified, stony, and mineral substances, and appears to have been the seat of volcanic fires at remote periods of time. These volcanic products are chiefly met with among the falls incumbent on beds of granite, where the soil and lighter materials have been washed away. The prin- cipal component parts of the interior mountains are granite, and its vari- ous modifications, which show them to be of primitive formation ; while the extensive ranges toward the coast are of less elevation, and are chiefly composed of indurated clays with sand and gravel, and may hence be regarded as belonging to the secondary order. ■ " The soil of the interior and mountainous parts of Guyana consists of a strong and fertile loam, being a due admixture of clay, sand, and vegeta- ble mould, with little calcareous earth, It contains much feruginous WATERTON'S ACCOUNT. 33 matter, which gives it a yellow or reddish tinge, and contrary to what has been asserted of countries within the torrid zone, there are evidently vast quantities of iron ore among the mountains of Guyana."' The following will serve to give some idea of the lands farther to the westward, in the region of the Maconssie mountains, on the west side of the Rippununi : " Passed over a barren salt savanna, to the mountains ; ascended a peak, which is nearly isolated, of the range of Parima. It was very steep and rugged, and difficult to climb. Found here, on the summit, five large houses, and about twenty men, besides women and children, all Macoussies, stout, lusty people The top of the mountain appears sterile, covered with large rocks. Cassada, corn, yams, plantains, &c, are produced on the sides of the mountains ; and thrive astonishingly, notwithstand- ing the sterile appearance of the soil, which is composed chiefly of Indurated clay and gravel, without the least appearance of mould or decayed vegetable matter. The mountain is called Etaka, in lat. 3° 58 f , and in long. 58j° west. From this spot, we could see far along the Cor- dillera of Parima, Mackerapan, as also the groups of Konoko, to the southward, which we afterward ascended ; and at the same time, the two great systems of rivers lohich drain the northern and southern slopes by the: Essequibo and Branco, the source of the Pirara, the Malw, the lake of Amucu, fyc., were visible here."* The mountain Makerapan, which he mentions, is, he says, about four thousand feet above the level of the plain on which it stands, and five thousand feet above the sea — is steep and precipitous on the south, facing the savanna, but may be ascended with ease on the east, from the river side.f The same character is given of this region by an English traveller, Mr. Charles Waterton, who about the same time, ascended the Essequibo, and passed over to the Portuguese fort ; and published a work in London, giving an account of his travels in that, and other parts of South Ame- rica,:}: from which we extract the folloAving remarks : A little before he passed the rapids of the Essequibo, two immense rocks appeared, nearly on the summit of one of the many hills which form a wide extended range ; one of which, the northern, was bare ; the southern, was covered with bushes. The next day, after passing the Siperouni, he came to a little hill, where there was a small settlement of Indians. Two days after, to another on the western bank. The third day after leaving the last, he came to a creek, (or river,) and shortly after to the pass to the open country. Here he drew the canoe into the forest, and went through it, when a savanna unfolded itself to his view ; — about two thousand acres of grass, with here and there a clump of trees, and a few bushes and single trees scattered up and down, neither hilly nor level, diversified with moderate rises and falls, and surrounded by lofty hills of * Hancock's O'jserv. p. 59. t Hancock's Observ, p. IS, t Wanderings ia South America.' 34 ELDORADO. various forms, covered with trees ; some pyramidal, others rounded ; one towering above the other, till they could not be distinguished from the clouds. His route (to the Portuguese post) from this place, was south. He entered the forest at the extremity of the savanna, journeying along a winding-path at the foot of a hill. The path, the next day, was not so good. The hills over which it lies, rocky, steep, and rugged ; the spaces between which were swampy, and most of them knee-deep in water. After eight hours' walk, he came to a small settlement, and in half an hour, to another* and thence, he proceeded in a southwest direction, through a long, swampy savanna, and walked for half a day in water nearly up to the knees. This was not the proper place to have come to, to reach the Portuguese frontiers. He advanced too much to the westward ; but to this he was compelled, as the ground on the direct course he ought to have taken, southwardly, was overflowed, and he was obliged to wind along the western hills, quite out of the way. He then ascended a steep and high hill, full of immense rocks, and the huts upon it were not all in one place, but dispersed wherever they found a place level enough for a lodgment ; and at the base of it stretched an immense plain, which, from the hill, appeared as level as a bowling-green. The mountains on the other side, were piled one upon the other, and gradually retired, till they were undiscernible from the clouds in which they were involved. To the south and southwest, it is lost in the horizon. The trees on it, look like islands, while the course of the rivulets is marked by the Jeta trees on their borders. He was not able to pursue his course to the next Indian habitation, on account of the floods of water which fall at that season of the year ; and took a circuit westerly, along the mountain's foot, and came to a large and deep creek, which he was obliged to make a raft to cross. After passing it, he walked, with a brisk pace, nine hours, to a small set- tlement of four Indian huts ; which, he observes, is the place he ought to have come to, two days before, had the water permitted. Although he crossed the plain at the most advantageous place, he was above ankle-deep in water for three hours. The remainder of the way was dry ground, gently rising. As the lower parts of this spacious plain put on, some- what, the appearance of a lake, during the periodical rains ; it is not im- probable, but that this is the place which has given rise to the supposed existence of the famed lake Parima, or El Dorado. But this is evidently the lake Amucu ; for the writer observes, in three hours from this settlement, is a river called the Pirara ; and from it you get into the Maou, and then into the Tacutu — and the Pirara ; by various testimonies, has been shown to flow out of this lake. CHAPTER III. INVESTIGATION OF THE CHARACTER OF LAKE PARIMA — WHAT RIVERS FLOW FROM IT STATE OF THE POPULATION ABOUT IT IN THE TIME OF RA- LEIGH CIRCUMSTANCES WHICH PROBABLY GAVE RISE TO THE IDEA OF A GREAT CITY UPON IT SOME FACTS REGARDING THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THAT REGION. To solve the question of this lake Parima, on which there has been so much doubt and diversity of opinion, I felt a great desire, while in the colony through which the Essequibo flows, to ascend it to its source, and examine the region in which it has usually been placed ; but the time lim- ited for my stay there, prevented my gratifying it. I was able, only a short time before I left it, to make an excursion up the river as far as the first falls. But during it, an unexpected and interesting circumstance occurred. Having stopped at the Indian post on the Mazerouni, which is a few miles before this river falls into the Essequibo, I learned from the Agent, that the Charibee chief, Mahanerwa, had come down on a second visit to the seat of government of Demerara, after a lapse of ten years ; but in consequenee of an epidemic which at that time raged there with violence, had stopped on the Cayouni, at a place a few miles from the post. On hearing this, I expressed to the Agent my anxious wish to have an interview with him, who promptly offered to gratify me, and sent a message to the Charibee chief, stating the desire of a visitor there, a stranger, to see him, and requesting him to come the post ; and the next clay, I had the pleasure of seeing a canoe of his come down. He was not in it himself, sending an answer that he was unwell ; but it contained his eldest son, a youth of about twenty years, and his son-in-law, Are- wya, who Avas of middle age, and appeared to have the command of it. The sight of these Charibees, from the remote wilds of Guyana, was very gratifying to me. Arewya had large folds of dark cotton cloth around his body, from the waist to his feet, the end of which was taken up and stuck in it. He wore no other ornaments than gold pendants in his ears, and his breast-plate, in the form of a crescent, suspended from his neck ; answering the description of the Caracolli, the peculiar ornament of the Charibee. The son of the chief, and the other youths, exhibited some- what more of the original customs. They were nearly naked ; and not only were their bodies painted, but their heads wci-e profusely covered over with paint of a scarlet brilliancy ; their faces marked with black streaks across their cheeks, their eyebrows painted, strings of shells around the neck, and the war-club hanging at their wrists. They leaped on shore together as soon as the boat touched it, with an elastic, buoy, 3* 36 ELDORADO. ant step, and a free, independent air, and stood erect before me. I looked at them with the historical recollections connected with their nation, with a powerful sensation ; and the scene made, has ever since remained fresh in my mind. They conveyed me to Mahanerwa's temporary cabin on the Cayouni, where, on entering, I saw him lying on a hamack. It was in the centre of it, and around the cabin were some half a dozen females, quietly occu- pied with some work they had in their hands ; which scene has been since recalled to my mind, by the description given by Labat of the industry and docility of the Charibees in the islands. After being introduced to the chief, I made inquiries of him, among other things, concerning the existence of lake Parima, its character, &c. He answered, that it was four days from his place and dried entirely, so that a person could walk over it, except that there remained a pond in the middle of it, which was full of fish, which he called cassamaima : that he had crossed over it, and it takes seven days to cross it : that there was there white and red sand, which he called mocoureeme and eereepeana. He also said there was rock crystal by mount Maho, which is agreeable to what Humboldt says he was informed by Nicholas Hortsman. Arewya said, Parima is in a savanna called Machewai. The water is of a whitish appearance and is never entirely dry, pronounced bareema. A creek, or river, quite black, and another quite red, goes out of it. That it was surrounded with white and red sand ; some of the white sand is shining and of a silvery appearance. High rocks are around it and also small hills, which have the shining appearance of glass, and that it takes four weeks to go round it. The information given by Mahanerwa is entitled to the highest degree of credit. Dr. Hancock, who had an opportunity of seeing him on this visit which he made to the coast, speaks of him in his pamphlet " Obser- vations on Guyana," in the most favorable terms. Alluding to a fact he had stated, he remarks, " on further reflection indeed I cannot doubt it, and I have found a note I made from the testimony of the Charibee chief, Ma- hanerwa, who came down to the coast in 1819, and after such a lapse of time, he said eight years, he came to repay my visit. A remarkable sensibility and mildness of manners distinguished him from the subordi- nate chiefs. His father had been the Caqui or Cacique of the Charibees, and Mahanerwa had travelled with him throughout Guyana. No one was so well acquainted with the country and the different tribes of Indians, and in long conversations, I availed myself of the information he was ever ready to impart. In fact, he was the most intelligent and correct of all the Indians I ever met with. He gave me a succinct account of the inland tribes at that period, besides numerous hints of value pertaining to the history and geography of the interior." Mahanerwa showed, in his conversation with me, his familiar ac- quaintance with the geography of the region concerning which I made my inquiries. Leaning out of his hamack, with a stick in his hand, LAKE AMDCU. 37 he marked on the sand of the floor the issuing of the river Parima from the lake, the situation of the Branco, which is the name it takes after the junction of the Tacutu with it, the river Maho, fort St. Joachim, &c. Afterward, on my return to the post, I saw a Macoussie Indian, who said he lived near the lake and had often crossed it ; — that it takes five days to cross it, and that it is the same time from the Essequibo to it. That it is surrounded by red sand, and is formed by a river, and dis- charges itself into another called the Rareenee, which empties into the Rio Negro. An European colonist, residing some distance up the Essequibo, whom I saw on my passage down, gave me an account very similar to the above Indian testimony. He said, that he had been in the interior and over the region on which this lake is situated ; that it is in a savanna, and the water discharges itself in the Rippununi and Siperouni, and the bot- tom of it is white clay. The Macoussies dig a pit in it in the dry season to get water. The rocks round it are half- wooded, half-bare ; are black, and as the sun shines, glisten; (probably granitic rocks,) red and white sand are around the hills. Neither Br. Hancock nor Mr. Waterton, he said, went so far west. The view presented by the different accounts I received, which I have recited respecting the lake Parima, agree with the opinions of Danville and La Cruz, that there is such a lake in this region ; and confirm the opinion of the former, that the Cayouni and Mazerouni branches of it, also rise out of it in addition to the streams mentioned by Humboldt, while they show the hypothesis of Surville, that it is only the lake Amucu, to be incorrect. It also agrees with the idea of Humboldt, that it is only the inundation of a tract of country ; but do not support his opinion, that it is formed by the lake Amucu and the overflowings of the tributaries of the Branco, as it clearly appears to be a distinct body of water. Hartsinck, in a map published with his work, places it at some distance from the lake Amucu. The other testimonies I collected on the subject support this statement. It appears from them generally, that the lake Amucu, which is the source of the Maho and Pirara, is bounded by the Macoussie mountains on the west — the European colonist, whom I have mentioned, who went over the region on which lake Parima lies, says it discharges itself into the Siperouni and the Rippununi — and the Essequibo journalist observes the Siperouni and the Annayoca creek a tributary of the Rippununi, rise out of the Macoussie mountains. From these relations taken together it appears probable that the inundated savanna, called lake Parima, is west of these mountains and not far from them. Humboldt is also, I think, in- correct in supposing the lake derives its name from the river Parima, being only an expansion of it. It appears more probable that the river takes its name from the lake. Its distance probably is not very great from the Rippununi, for Keymis says that the Indians proceeding to the head of the Essequibo, by which he must mean this branch of it, " carry 38 EL DORADO. their canoes one day's journey to a lake, which he says is called by the Charibees Parima, and the Jaos Roponowini." Mahanerwa, the Cha- ribee chief, says it is four days' journey from his place ; and from the Essequibo Journalist it appears, that it cannot take much less time to come from it to the Rippununi. On the whole, from the examination which has been made, it appears in- dubitable that there is an extensive tract inundated, separate from the lake Amucu, on the table-land between the Essequibo and the Oronoke, on which passes the Cordillera of Parima — that various streams flow from it northwardly, southwardly and eastwardly, of which the Parima is the principal — which has either given name to this inundation, or the river derives its appellation from it. The real character of this body of water, which, until recently, was always denominated a lake, being only a temporary inundation ; Hum- boldt, it has been seen, has not been willing to admit it in his map, in which he has been followed by subsequent geographers ; and the lake Parima has now entirely disappeared from the maps of South America, while the little lake Amucu has maintained its place, as in the large map of Arrow- smith, which I have made the basis of the sketch of Guyana, prefixed to this volume. And as in Guyana the year is divided between two rainy and two dry seasons, each of three months, and during the former it rains continually, the water must fill the savanna as fast as it flows out of it ; and the inun- dation must therefore exist for half the year and perhaps some time longer, as, after each rainy season, so large a body of water cannot be immedi- ately discharged. D'Anville, the most eminent geographer of his time, after all the doubts and controversies about it, finally inserted it in his second map, published in 1760 ; and La Cruz, in 1775, also in his — which has been followed by all modern geographers, until the publication of Humboldt. Hartsinck, also, who states that he obtained his information concerning it, from the Dutch settlements in Guyana, likewise gives it a place in his map. Fur- ther, Alcedo, a Spanish writer, in his Geographical Dictionary, a work of great authority, published in 1786, speaks positively of such a lake. " Parima is," he observes, " a very great lake of the province of Dorado, the depot of many rivers, and which discharges itself by a very large arm into the Rio Blanco, and by others. Some modern authors pretend that it is fabulous ; but, according to the latest and most certain observa- tions, such a lake actually exists. Its extent is not well known, and va- ries according to different relations. It is of a rectangular form, and the greater part of travellers make it eighty-two leagues (two hundred and forty-six miles,) from east to west. It resembles a small sea, and the water is saltish. On the N. N. E., rises out of it the river Cayuni, which joins the Essequibo. On the south flows out the Paranapitinga, or Yagurapiri — also called the White Water." T HE RAIN Y SEASON. 39 There are some reasons why geographers should hesitate in expunging this lake from their maps. Although it is only a temporary inundation, it appears from the accounts given by the Charibee chief and others, to have a distinct basin — being in a savanna called by a particular name, Machewai ; is surrounded by rocks, and around it are white and red sand, and it is never entirely dry ; but there always remains a pond, which is full of fish called cassamaima. „... , Concerning the extent of this lake Parima, I am unable to form an exact idea from the relation of the Charibee chief — not knowing the rate at which the Indians of Guyana travel . A probable estimate of it only can be formed. He stated, that it takes seven days to cross the savanna ; and sup- posing that they travel at the rate of thirty to thirty-five miles per day— the length of the lake would be from two hundred to two hundred and fifty miles. These are about the dimensions which Alcedo gives to it. La Cruz makes it one hundred miles long, and fifty broad.* Humboldt observes, that the northern bank of the Urariapara, one of the tributaries of Rio Branco, above St. Rosa, is called el Valle del Inundation, and suggests, that this may be only an expansion of Mar Blanco, or the White Sea — as the dif- ference between St. Rosa and the Rippununi, and lake Amucu, is but three degrees and a half — which appears probable, for this difference of longitude is not greater than the length of the lake, according to Alcedo. This great inundation is produced, as observed, by the rainy seasons, which periodically occur in Guyana ; and how great a quantity of water falls during their continuance, may be judged from the following remarks in Mr. M. Martin's History of the British Colonies :— " During the wet season, the wind is often from the S. W., and then the rain descends in torrents — sometimes for two or three days without intermission. At these periods, the sailors say, it only leaves off raining to commence pouring," — and, in the interior, the rain falls more than on the coast. " In the hurricane months," says the same writer, " when the Caribbee islands are ravaged with terrific tempests, vast masses of clouds — Pelion-like upon Ossa — advance toward the south. The mountains inland reverberate with pealing thunder, and the night is illuminated with faint lightning coruscations. Brief storms succeed. Upon the hills in the interior, the clouds discharge three times as much rain as falls upon the coast." p A circumstance stated by Sir Walter Raleigh respecting lake Parima, that it is a salt lake, Humboldt considers merely an imaginary idea, form- ed from remembrance of the salt lake of Mexico. But that his relation is correct, is supported by several testimonies. Lawrence Keymis, in the passage I have above quoted from him, calls it so. " From the mouth of the Oyapocke, the inhabitants pass in their canoes, in twenty days, to the Salt Lake, whereon Manoa standeth."f And, on the Oronoke, he was in- formed by a Charibee captain, " that a nation of clothed people dwell not far from where this river doth first take its name, and that far within they * Pinkerton's Geography, vol. 2. ch. i. t Cayley, vol. 8, p. 359. 40 ELDORADO. border upon a sea cf salt water, called Parima."* Keymis, it is true, was an officer under Raleigh ; but it is very improbable that he should^ for the purpose of furthering his views, state a circumstance regarding the lake — if he had not heard it — which did not, in the least, contribute to support the idea of a splendid city on its borders. But that such is its character, is confirmed by other testimonies. In the statement made re- specting it by the Governor of Demerara, in 1765, " it has been seen," he says, " the Indians resorted to it to gather from it a substance which they called salt — some of which was brought to him — but which, on ex- amination, he found to be saltpetre." Further, Dr. Hancock says, that in going from the Rippununi westward to the Macoussie mountains, he crossed through a barren salt savanna. If such is the character of the soil there, it is not improbable, that of the land farther west may be the same. Again, Alcedo, in the passage I have above cited from him, says this lake " resembles a small sea, and the water is saltish." Lakes of this character are numerous in South America, as the Los Xarayes, in the flat plains of La Plata, which is formed by the col- lected waters of the torrents which flow during the rainy season from the mountains of Chiquitos. The Paraguay swelling over its banks at that period, inundates an expanse of flat land, under the 17th degree south latitude, to an extent of three hundred and thirty miles in length, and one hundred and twenty in breadth ; but when the waters of the Paraguay abate, this lake becomes a marsh. Besides this lake, there are many others of great size. f Further, the numerous lakes in this province are generally shallow, and produced by the overflowing of the rivers ; but they have the singular quality of being mostly saline. There is in these vast plains through which the rivers pass, an immense tract of land, the soil of which is saturated with fossil salt. It extends to the south of Buenos Ayres. This substance appears in the greatest abundance be- tween Santa Fe and Cordova, where the whole ground is covered with a white incrustation. . . Natural saltpetre is also collected in this part of the country. After a shower, the ground is whitened with it.| Lake Parima is sometimes called the " White Sea;" a circumstance which corroborates the testimony I have given, that the river Parima, which below the Tacutu is called Rio Branco, or Rio des Agues Blancas, or river of white waters, flows out of it. The whiteness of the lake is no doubt produced by a circumstance, stated by one of my informants respect- ing it, that the bottom of it is white clay. The Macoussie Indian said, it discharges itself into the Rareenee — by which he intended the Parima, for, he added, the Rareenee discharges itself into the Rio Negro. This word was, perhaps, meant for Areena, which is clay in the Charibee language — and shows that the whiteness of this river originates from the same cause as that of the lake. * Caj ley, vol. 2, p. 338. I t Bonnycastle's Soulli America, p. 348. 5 Bonnycastle's South America, p .376-9. ., MARIWIN INQUIRER. 41 This view is confirmed by Dr. Hancock, in the following remarks — nart of a communication made by him respecting this region, to Mr. Martin : " The soil of some of the upland savannas is composed of clay and gravel, very close, and, though apparently sterile, yielding food for the immense herds of cattle and horses, that pasture along the Rio Branco. Of a very pure white clay, there are immense masses, forming the high banks of the Esse- quibo above the falls The Conoko mountains form an isolated group, seated on the elevated plains which separate two great systems of rivers, the tributary streams of the Essequibo flowing N. E., and those of the Tacutu, Branco, &c, toward the Rio Negro and Amazon. From the summit of these mountains can be seen the spot where the Tacutu and Rippununi take their rise. The soil here is of a pure white clay, (not chalk,) giving to the Rio Branco, and other rivers, a milky color, owing to the quantity of clay therein diffused, and in such a minute state of subdivision, as to require several days before the water will become trans- parent by deposition."* But that lake Parima is a White Sea, and also salt, is conclusively shown by the following unexceptionable testimony. In the collection of voyages by Purchas, is an account of one made to the river Oyapoke, in Cayenne, by Robert Harcourt, in 1608 — which is thirteen years after the first voyage of Raleigh — with a view of making a settlement there ; and who had with him, including officers and seamen, ninety-seven persons. As the testimony I have mentioned, which is that of a person who accom- panied him, is a most valuable document in regard to the defence of Ra- leigh, some account of it will be given. Harcourt,, on his arrival at the Oyapoke, held a conference with one of the chiefs, and being secure of the good will of the Indians, took possession of the country, for the crown of England. After making some examination of the river, he appointed one of his officers to remain there with a party of his company, "to con- tinue the possession," and proceeded with his vessels and the rest, to the Cayenne river. From this place he went with his boat, taking with him " captain Fisher — his brother, Unton Fisher, an apothecary" — and about six more, to the Mariwin, to explore that river, and proceeded up it forty 1 eagues, when the passage was so obstructed by rocks and shoals, and, finally, high falls, that he was obliged to return. Determined, however, to have this river examined, on going down he stopped at a town, the third from the sea, whose chief was Maperitaka — where, on ascending it, he had been very hospitably received — and at this point of his journey, he remarks : " At this town, I left my cousin, Unton Fisher, an apothecary, and one servant to attend him ; and having first taken order with Maperi- taka, for their diet and other necessaries, both for travel and otherwise, (who, ever since, according to his promise, hath performed the part of an honest man, and faithful friend,) I gave directions to my cousin, Fisher, to prosecute the discovery of Mariwini, when the time of the year, and the * M. Martin's Hist. British Colonies, vol. 2, ch, i. 42 ELDORADO. watess better served ; and, if it were possible, to go up the high country of Guyana and to find out the city of Manoa, mentioned by Sir Walter Raleigh in his discovery. He followed my directions to the uttermost of his ability — being of a good wit, and very industrious, and enabled to undergo these employments, by obtaining the love, and gaining the lan- guages of the people."* Immediately following the account of this voyage in Purchas, is a nar- rative with this title, " Relation of the habitations, and other observations of the Mariwin," without a name. In the margin Purchas says, " I found this fairly written in M. Hackluyt's papers, but know not who was the author."! But there cannot be the least doubt that it was a journal made by Unton Fisher, as not only two-thirds of it is an account of the interior of Guyana and the city of Manoa, concerning which Harcourt directed him to inquire, and no other English voyager is known, at that period, to have explored this river ; but as the account Harcourt gives of Fisher's discoveries on it and other matters, agrees with the Relation, and some part of it is in the very language of it, as will be seen in Appendix No. I, where, as far as is material to the subjects I am examining, it is annexed entire. The account which the relater, whom I shall style the Mariwin Inquirer, gives of Guyana and the city of Manoa, states he received " from an ancient Indian, who came from the head of Surinam in a canoe with four others," who belonged to the Oronoke, and was of the nation of Yaios, a branch of the Charibees, and who speak the same language. He had been taken prisoner by the Spaniards, and would have been put to death, but because he had been a great traveller and knew the country well, they kept him for a guide, and afterwai'd he contrived to escape in a boat, and came to the river Surinam and proceeded to the head of it. He appears, in his travels, to have gone over the country from the Esse- quibo to the Oronoke, and to have given the account the relater received from him, from his personal knowledge ; for he said " it was a month's journey by land, from the head of Mariwin and the head of Disseekebe, and from the head of Disseekebe to the head of Orenoq, a month's travel." This relation of the Mariwin Inquirer is entitled to unqualified credit, as it proceeds from a wholly disinterested source ; Harcourt having not only made his voyage unconnected with Raleigh, but subsequently obtained, with two other persons, a grant from the crown of England, of the whole of Guyana from the Amazon to the space on the Oronoke, occupied by the Spaniards — in opposition, as far at least as regards the subjects of England, to his prior claims. Those associated with Har- court, were, therefore, also free from any bias in favor of Raleigh ; and that Fisher gave a correct relation of what he observed and learned on the Mariwin, the character given of him by Harcourt affords a full assu- rance. * Purchas's Coll. of Voyages,' 4. vol., liook vi„ cli. xvi. f Purchas. vol. 4, book vi, cli. xvii. MAP OF LA CRUZ. 43 In regard to the subject which is under immediate consideration — the character of lake Parima — he has the following interesting passage : " The ancient Indian, likewise spake of a very fair and large city in Guyana, which he called Monooan — which I take to be that which Sir Wal- ler calleth Manoa — which siandeth by a salt lake ; which he called Par- roowan Parrocare Mono an, in the province of Asaccona. The Chief Captain, or Acariioonnora, as he called him, was Pepodallapa." These words — Parroowan, Parrocare, Manooan — I find to belong to the Charibee language, according to a vocabulary of it, as spoken in Cay- enne, made by Biet, a missionary, annexed to his account of his travels there. Parroowan, (Parona,) signifying sea ; Parrocare, (Aboirike,) white. Monooan, the relater considers to be Manoa ; but I shall here- after show, is more properly translated of the Manoas, a tribe of Indians-*- for Manoa, in Raleigh's Narrative, was not the lake, but a place upon it ; and thus the name of the lake, as given by the ancient Indian, is White Sea of the Manoas. Of the manner in which the lake Parima discharges itself, the preced- ing examination has shown that it may be considered indubitable, that, on the south, its waters flow out through the Rio Branco by various tributa- ries, of which the Parima is one ; and, on the east, by the principal branches of the Essequibo, the Rippununi, Siperouni, Mazerouni, and Cayouni. On the north, it has been observed, that Raleigh says the Caroli (Caroni,) and Arvi, both tributaries of the Oronoke, take their rise from lake Cassipa. The researches of Humboldt have elicited no positive information on this subject, but he is inclined to think the assertion of Raleigh correct ; for the Caroni is formed by the union of two branches of almost equal magnitude, the Caroni, properly so called, and the Rio Paragua, and the latter river is called by the missionaries of Piritoo, a lake. " It is full of shoals and little cascades, but passing through a country entirely flat, it is subject at the same time to great inundations, and its real bed can scarcely be discovered. The natives have given it the name of Paragua or Parava, which means in the Charibee language a great lake." He also thinks the opinion of Caulin, that the Caura, another tributary of the Oronoke, west of the Arvi, also flows out of lake Cassipa, or Parima, is to be relied on, as it was founded upon testimony collected by Don Jose Antonio Solano, in his expedition of boundaries. "On the west, in the great map of La Cruz," remarks Humboldt, "the Oronoke takes its rise, under the names of Parima or Paruma, in the mountainous land between the Ventuari and the Caura, in the latitude of five degrees, from a small lake called Ipava. The Rio Pari- ma, after a course of forty degrees east-northeast, and sixty leagues north- east, receives the Rio Mahu ; then enters into lake Parima, which is supposed to be thirty leagues long and twenty broad. From this lake three rivers immediately issue — the Rio Ucamu, (Ocamoo,) the Rio Idapa, (Siapa,) and the Rio Branco. The Oronoke, or Parima, is indicated as a subterraneous filtration, at the western side of the Sierra Mei, which skirts 44 ELDORADO. the lake or White Sea, in the west. This strange disposition of the rivers is become the type of almost all the modern maps of Guyana." It is very probable that La Cruz formed his theory from a misappre- hension of reports he heard. A river Parima, it has been seen, flows from the lake at the south ; and a river Mahu, which comes out of the same chain of mountains, joins the Tacutu which enters into the Parima, which then takes the name of Branco. But La Cruz places them on the northern side of the lake. From this it may be seen, how little is known of the geography of this region. Even in the Spanish provinces north of this lake, an entire ignorance appears to exist on the subject. In a map of Vene- zuela and Guyana, attached to a theory of Caraccas by De Pons — who resided four years in different parts of them — published in 1805, in which the lake Parima is conspicuously laid down, he adopts the theory of La Cruz, in regard to a river Parima joined by the Mahu, flowing into it at the north. On the east he makes no stream whatever issue from it. The different branches of the Essequibo are placed at a distance from it. At the southeast corner, exactly three large arms issue, which form the Branco, that makes a bold sweep to the west before it flows to the south. No other tributary of this river, or any other stream, flows from the southern side of the lake. Such are the erroneous ideas entertained in the Spanish territories, so late as 1805, regarding this lake. The inhabit- ants of Caraccas and Angustura know as little in what manner it dis- charges itself at the south, as the Portuguese the streams that issue from it at the north. " Caulin," observes Humboldt, " in his map, makes the Oronoke rise out of lake Parima — but the lake he places to the east of the Rio Branco," — a most strange idea. Surville, who considers lake Parima to be only lake Amucu, substi- stutes for the lake Parima of La Cruz, another lake in latitude 2° 10'. Near this Alpine lake, rise from the same source the Oronoke, and the Rio Idapa, a tributary stream of the Cassiquiari. From this arrange- ment, altogether hypothetical, the origin of the Oronoke is no lake, and its sources are independent of lake Parima.* La Cruz, it has been observed, makes the Oronoke, by the name of Parima, rise out of the lake, which is a distinct fact from the other, which he states, that a river of that name first flows into it from the north. Caulin also makes the Oronoke rise out of the lake, though he places it in a singular location. It is not improbable this is the origin of the Oronoke, at least, that one of the streams that form it issues from the lake, and it is possi- ble it may have the name of Parima ; for it would not be extraordinary if the lake should give its name to more than one river 'rising out of it in different directions. There is a striking passage on this subject in the voyage of Keymis, which I have already cited for another purpose. He was informed by a Charibee captain on the Oronoke, " that a nation of clothed people, called * Humboldt's Pers. Nar. chap. xxiv. EXPEDITION OF BOVADILLA. 45 Cassanari, dwell not far from the place where the river first takes the name of Oronoke, and that far within they border upon a sea of salt water, called Parima ;■" or, as appears to be the meaning, there was a nation called Cassanari, bordering upon the sea called Parima, which was not far from where the Oronoke first bears that name. Hence this river must have run some distance before, and as the lake was not far from where it first takes the name, it seems a reasonable conclusion that it flowed out of it. " The Charibees," says Keymis, " are, of all Indians, those that know most of the inland — a circumstance caused by their being spread over the greater part of Guyana, and their constant habits of trading and warlike expeditions. Humboldt was unable to elucidate this subject by personal examina- tion, having ascended the Oronoke only a short distance from Esmeralda, the last Christian post on it — a little hamlet of eighty houses situated at its bifurcation with the Cassaquiari. Of the causes which prevented his progress farther, he gives the following relation. " This river may," he observes, " be ascended without danger from Esmeralda as far as the cata- racts occupied by the Guyaca Indians, who prevent ulterior progress of the Spaniards. This is a voyage of six days and a half, in which dis- tance it receives several streams. At the mouth of the Geheite is a cataract, formed by a dike of granite rocks crossing the Oronoke, which are the columns of Hercules, beyond which no white man has been able to penetrate, and known by the name of the Raudal Guahariboes, three- quarters of a degree east of Esmeralda — consequently in 67° 38' longi- tude. A military expedition, undertaken by the commander of the fort of San Carlos, Don Francisco Bovadilla, led to the most minute informa- tion respecting the cataracts of the Guahariboes. He heard that some fugitive negroes, proceeding toward the west, had joined the independent Indians. He attempted a hostile incursion, from tho desire of procuring African slaves better fitted for labor than the native race. Bovadilla arrived without difficulty as far as the little Raudal, opposite the Gehette ; but, having advanced to the foot of the rocky dike that forms the great cataracts, he was suddenly attacked, while he was breakfasting, by the Guahariboes and the Guaycas, two warlike tribes, celebrated for the activity of their arrow-poison. The Indians occupied the rocks that rise in the middle of the river, and seeing the Spaniards without bows, and having no knowledge of fire-arms, they provoked the whites, whom they believed to be without defence. Several of the latter were dangerously wounded, and Bovadilla found himself forced to give the signal of battle. A horrible carnage ensued among the natives, but no Dutch negroes were found. Notwithstanding a victory so easily won, the Spaniards did not dare to advance toward the east-, in a mountainous country, and along a river closed by very high banks."* Informed of these facts, Humboldt proceeded up the Oronoke beyond Esmeralda only, as far as the mouth of the Guapo, two and a half days' * Humboldt's Pers, Nar. vol. 5. pp- 536—560.] 46 ELDORADO. journey, which is fifteen leagues distant from the Raudal of the Gua- hariboes.* An examination having been thus made into the existence, the locality, and the character of the lake Parima of geographers — called by Sir Walter Raleigh the lake Cassipa, — the more important circumstance related by him, the " rich and magnificent city on its borders, which the natives call Manoa, and the Spaniards El Dorado," will now be considered- On this subject, an inquiry will first be made, without referring to the character given of this city, whether a place called Manoa — either a large city, or a considerable Indian settlement, whatever it may be — has been related to exist in the interior of Guyana, by any other person than Sir Walter Raleigh. The contrary has generally been taken for granted ; and on this assumption, a foundation has been laid by his personal ene- mies at that time, and prejudiced historians since, to consider his whole relation respecting it as purely his own invention — or a delusion arising from his vain imagination. But in this respect, as well as others, great injustice has been done to him. Lawrence Keymis, subsequent to him, at two different places on the coast of Guyana, viz., at the Oyapoke, in Cayenne, and on the Essequibo, " heard of Manoa, situated upon a lake called Parima," far within the country, and the distance to it from the mouth of each river. On the Oronoque, he also heard of it, from a Charibee captain, who said it was twenty days from the Wiapoco, (Oyapoke,) ; and gave him, also, the distance to it from several rivers between the Essequibo and Oronoque. Keymis, it is true, was an associate of Raleigh, and this ac- count might be supposed made to favor his views ; but that he did not copy the relation from him, and give, as it were, a second edition of it, is fully established by the fact that he calls the lake by the name of Pari- ma — while that which Raleigh gives it is Cassipa — who was not aware of the other, which is the name by which it has been always called, on the coast of Guyana. Further, it has already been observed, that the Mariwin Inquirer, a wholly disinterested witness, states, that the ancient Indian from the head of the river Surinam, spoke of a very fine and large city in Guyana — which he called Monooan — which, says the jour- nalist, I take to be that which Sir Walter calleth Manoa, which standeth by a salt lake, &e. That, a large Indian population formerly existed in the region assigned for the locality of this lake, is rendered probable by several considerations. There is at present a large collection of Indian nations in this region. From the Charibee chief, Mahanerwa, I received the following list of tribes, which, he said, inhabited about Parima, viz : Macoussies, Tibera- cottis, Carenacottis, Wyomeera, Wyoocooma, Sapara, Poweeana, Awaeo, Pareenapana, Eenao, Mako, Seewaianos. His son-in-law, Areewya, add- ed Mahanaos, Areewas, Braveeana, Eeponois, Cawera. The nations residing farther east, on the different branches of the Essequibo, I learned * Humboldt's Pers. Nar. p. 571 ARROW POISON. 47 from authentic sources, are the following : On, or near the Rippununi are Macoussies, Wapisanas, and some Charibees, with a few scattering Indians— the remains of tribes who have been reduced by the Charibees, and the greater portion driven away — all of whom, except this nation, live either on the tops of the mountains, or close to their foot ; where the soil is strong and productive. On the Siperouni, are Macoussies and Ackoways, and two or three other tribes. On the east, or main branch of the Essequibo, the two principal nations are the Atorays, or Atorees, and the Turamas, a numerous and warlike nation, besides a number of others. Three of these nations, the Ackoways, Atorays, and Macoussies, were mentioned a century ago, by Nicholas Hortsman, according to Hum- boldt, as residing in this locality. I obtained vocabularies of their lan- guages, which are, I believe, unknown in Europe ; — the two first, taken down by myself : also, of the Tiberacotti, one of the nations about lake Parima — all which are in the Table, Appendix No. V., to this volume. The Macoussies are numerous, and more inclined to industry than the other Indians ; but are of a very timid character — and hence, are attack- ed by them, and made slaves. Hostile tribes accommodate their differ- ences to join in an expedition against them, for this object ; and almost all the tribes possess a number of slaves captured from them. From these causes, they are reduced to a small number. They employ poison, as a means of destruction against their enemies ; and are the makers of the most virulent kind known in Guyana — the woorara, or arrow-poison, from whom the other tribes purchase it. They use it, also, as a means of de- fence ; — surrounding their dwellings with poisoned stakes. The Atorays, or Atorees, possess a very pacific temper. They are never known to commence aggressive wars, and submit quietly to any attacks upon them. The Ackoways, are a branch of the Charibees. Their language re- sembles that of this nation. They possess their brave and warlike cha- racter, and also their enterprising and trading spirit ; and through them the trade, between the different nations of Guyana, is now principally carried on. The state of the tribes, too, denotes that this part of Guyana was once much more populous ; as they are, generally, the mere remnants of na- tions. Other tribes have lived here, who are now entirely destroyed, or driven away to the Portuguese territories, by the preponderating sway of the Charibees. It is true, the two periodical inundations which form the lake, continue together for half a year ; but, judging from the state of the population at the east of it, on the same Cordillera, according to the rela- tions of several travellers whom I have cited, the nations who inhabited the inundated district, dwelt on the mountains. One of the Macoussie mountains, says the Essequibo journalist, is mount Itaka, which he ascend- ed, and half-way up, found a settlement of twelve houses. Dr. Hancock says this mountain is an isolated peak, steep and rugged, difficult to climb, and that on the summit are five houses, On the sides of the mountains. 43 ELDORADO. though they appear sterile, cassada, corn, plaintains, &c, thrive astonish- ingly well. Mr. Waterton speaks of a steep and high hill, full of immense rocks, which he ascended ; the huts built on which, were not all in one place, but dispersed wherever they could find a spot level enough for a lodgment. And the population was not only on mountains around the lake. In it, says Alcedo, are many islands ; and in the mountains many nations who have given rise to the imaginary El Dorado, the cause of so many misfortunes and deaths. From the length which he givjes it of two hun- dred and forty-six miles ; and, taking a breadth for it of fifty miles, according to La Cruz ; if, as Alcedo supposes, it is rectangular, it would cover a space of twelve thousand square miles — as large a body of water as lake Ontario, or Erie, and which Raleigh compares to the Caspian sea. This space, surrounded and spread over with mountains, was capable of containing an extensive population. The whole of Guyana appears to have been much more thickly inhabited than at present. The borders of the Oronoke, exhibit the same appearance, as to the state of the tribes on it, as the region at the sources of the Essequibo. The population is scanty while there is the greatest number of nations, or remnants of tribes. The variety of idioms, observes Humboldt, that are spoken on the banks of the Meta, the Oronoke, the Cassiquiari, and the Rio Negro, is so prodigious, that a traveller, however great may be his talent for languages, can never flatter himself with learning enough to make himself understood along the navigable rivers, from Angustura to the Rio Negro. From the situation of this lake, communicating with so many rivers, flowing in different directions with the Oronoke, the Amazon and the At- lantic, a large assemblage of Indians would almost inevitably be collected there. A great number, in particular, would not fail to come to it by the Rio Branco, which unites with the Rio Negro, a large arm of the Amazon, on whose banks are a multitude of natives. D'Acugna, who makes the length of the Amazon about one thousand two hundred leagues — a less estimate than that of Orellana, which is one thousand eight hundred — observes, that its borders were so thickly populated when he passed down in 1639, that the habitations of the Indians along the whole were near each other ; and that not merely in one nation, but the settlements of two contiguous nations were at such little distance from each other, that sounds could be heard from the last habitation of one by several of the other. The tributaries of this river, both on the north and south side, were likewise thickly inhabited. It is very probable, also, that there was an emigration from the Oronoke to this region. Some of the tribes now in it, appear to have come from that river. The Atorays, or Atorees of the Essequibo (the name is written both ways) are probably the Atures of the Oronoke — a number of whom, Humboldt says, have been found east of the Esmeralda, which is directly west of lake Parima. The Atures belong to the great stock of Saliva nations, who are the most intelligent tribes on the Oronoke. The Atorees are an industrious, mild, and pacific nation, and appear to have a degree of mechanical skill above the other tribes. They are the sole REGION OF PARI MA. 49 makers of the stone rasps, used by the other Indians for grating the cas- sava root. Their houses are made with rather more art than those of the others, being circular. In the neighborhood of Mahanerwa's place, the Essequibo journalist says there are four round houses, rilled with clay, entirely closed, except a space for an entrance, which were erected from some singular notion the makers imbibed. These, I was informed, were made by the Atorees. They are on an eminence, and make a singular appearance in that wilderness country. The Macoes, according to the Charibee chief, are one of the nations about lake Parima. A nation of the same name exists on the Oronoke, and like the Atures, belong to the Saliva stock. The Wapisanas, on the Rippununi, are perhaps the Guaypanabis of the Oronoke. The first syllable of each name is the same, according to a different pronunciation. Thus, the Guaranos, at the mouth of this river, are called Warrows ; the Guykeries, Wikiries. Furious contests formerly existed between the Guaypanabis and the Cha- ribees of the Oronoke, and the Wapisanas are pursued by those of the Essequibo with such a determined spirit, that they have taken up their abodes toward the tops of the highest mountains, and dare not appear in the level country. Humboldt says, that from Caycara, on the Oronoke, a little below the cataracts of the Atures, the Indians formerly had a road that led to Esse- quibo and Demerara. Raleigh says there were around the lake Cassipa (Parima) three mighty nations, the Cassipagotos, Awaragotos, and Eparagotos. Who they were, I have not been able to learn. The termination goto, belongs to the Cha- ribee language, as in the Tiberacottis and Arenacottis tribes now around the lake. Eparagotos and Tiberacottis seem to have some resemblance — a consonant is sometimes put, by the Indians, before words to improve the sound. This circumstance, too, of so many rivers rising near each other, and by short portages communicating together, would lead the borderers of the Atlantic coast and the Oronoke frequently to pass through Guyana to the Rio Negro and the Amazon, and those on the latter river to make the opposite journey, for the purpose of trafficking with the articles grow- ing or made in their respective regions ; and in the end would probably render the region of Parima, whence these rivers rise, a common rendez- vous, or market-ground, for the same purpose ; by which their mutual exchanges could be more conveniently carried on. Some indications of this exist at the present day. The Essequibo journalist, speaking of his visit to the Charibee chief, says : " The trade between the Charibees, Alorays, Macoussies, Wapisanas and Turamas, goes on the whole year, and this place is the great market — every day strangers are coming and going — visits from all quarters." But the tribes at a distance, had the additional motive to visit this region to obtain many articles, either found solely in it, or more readily obtained here than elsewhere, 4 \ \ \ 50 EL DORADO. The forests of Guyana have always presented an interesting field to the naturalist. The great luxuriance of vegetation which they exhibit, caused by a prolific soil and tropical sun, producing an innumerable vari- ety of plants ; the many majestic and beautiful trees of singular forms, standing conspicuous in the landscape ; the great variety of birds of rich and splendid plumage which adorn them ; the multitude of rare and curi- ous quadrupeds with which the} 7- are thronged, with innumerable vari- eties of the insect race, are everywhere calculated to arrest his attention. But in the mountainous region of Parima, a field for his researches is presented, not exceeded by that of any other country, in the animals of all the orders which are peculiar to it, the many new varieties found here of' those already known, the rare vegetable productions, useful for food or other purposes, the many curious and valuable woods, the medicinal plants, and the gums, oils, &c, with which it abounds. Of the abundance, variety, and beauty of the natural productions, both in the animal and vegetable domain, in the interior of British Guyana, the following lively description has been given by Capt. J. E. Alexander, in his Trans- Atlantic Sketches, published in 1833 ; who, accompanied by Mr. Hillhouse, surveyor of Demerara, a gentleman of intelligence and well acquainted with that colony, ascended the Essequibo, and then pro- ceeded up the Mazarouni two hundred and thirty-four miles. The description relates to the scenery on that river : " At every turn of the river, says the author, we descried objects of great interest. The dense, and nearly impenetrable forest itself, occupied our chief attention. Magnificent trees, altogether new to me, were anchored to the ground by the bush-rope. Convolvuli and the flowers of parasitical plants of every variety, caused the woods to appear as if hung with gar- lands. Preeminent above the other sons of the forest, was the towering and majestic mora. Its trunk spread out into buttresses, and on its top could be seen the king of vultures, spreading out his immense wings to dry after the dews of night. " Rivalling the mora in height, and surpassing it in beauty, was the silk cotton-tree. A naturalist might study for days one of these grand ob- jects, produced by exuberant nature from the richest mould, with the combined advantages of a tropical sun and moist atmosphere, and still he will find something new, and much to wonder at. " Supporting many other plants, and a numerous colony of animated nature, on the topmost branches of the tree are seen the wild pine — while the vines, descending like shrouds to the earth, afford to the traveller a pleasant beverage ; for if skilfully cut with a knife, the water gushes out. . . . The opossum, and other small quadrupeds, ascending by the vines, drink from the deep cup of the pines, which contains nearly a quart of water, collected from the dews and rain. In the forks of the branches are seen the black clay nests of the wood-ant, with double gal- leries down the stem, by which the tiny colonists ascend and descend, without interrupting each other. Sometimes the marabouts, or wild bees, WONDERS OF NATURE. 51 occupy the place of the ants, and are surrounded by the hanging nests of the black and yellow mocking-birds. " Here and there, singly or in groups, the royal palmetto reared its head one hundred feet in height, and the stem seven or eight feet in thickness. The straight gray pillar terminates in a green edible shaft, affording the mountain cabbage ; then the branches, fifteen feet in length, spread out horizontally, from which depended the close-set pinnated and pointed leaves, agitated by the slightest breath of air. " While we lay, in the noonday heat, shadowed underneath the thick wood, the very peculiar and romantic cry of the campanero, or bell-bird, would be heard at intervals. It is white, about the size of a pigeon, with a leathery excresence on its forehead ; and the sound which it produces in the lone woods, is like that of a convent bell tolling at a distance." Captain Alexander then gives an account of some remarkable quadru- peds of this region, as the tapir, or American elephant j the spotted jaguar ; the manati, or sea-cow ; and the cayman, or alligator ; but his animated description I am obliged to omit, not to extend the extract to too great a length. ' " The trees of the forest, matted together by bush- rope, here running up their stems, and then joining branch to branch, were at times alive on each side of the river, with the restless saccawabee, or small red monkey, with a white face. They travel from tree to tree with facility, by means of the wild vines ; and numerous families of these active little creatures, with their offspring on their backs, may be seen disporting themselves among the leaves, and feeding on the nuts, far removed from their ene- mies, the snakes below. " Then advancing up a creek, the wanderer may come to a lonely spot, rocks and trees casting broad shadows into the pools ; and he will there see the spotted wirrabocerra, or the red bajeer deer, reposing at noon, or rushing, with panting sides, to the water. The flesh of both these deer is delicious. " Rushing through entangled brush- wood, will be heard a score or two of picarree hogs. The ant, bear, tree-porcupine, the scaly armadilla, and the languid sloth, are' not unfrequently met with, in traversing these luxuriant and unbroken forests ; but above all, the red men desire to meet with the amphibious laaba, about the size of a pig a year old, and the body brown, with white spots, affording flesh rich and delicate. " When the sun sinks rapidly in the west, and disappears behind the trees, like a fiery target, gorgeous macaws, and screaming parrots fly in pairs over head, returning from their feeding grounds, to their favorite roosts. The dreaded vampire then leaves the shady nest, or hollow tree, where he had dosed during the day, and flits on ebon and leathery wings along the river's bank. These foul bats are sometimes three feet from wing to wing. , . | " During the night, the owls and goat-suckers lament with ominous cry, and at early dawn the hannaqua loudly repeats its own name, and the 4* 52 EL DORADO. woodpeckers commence their hammering on decayed trees, and the mighty-billed toucans yelp from the loftiest trees. Near the mouths of the rivers, the curry-curry, or scarlet curlew, stalks conspicuously among other aquatic birds, and the falcon, pelican, and spoonbill, are seen with flocks of wild duck and teel, &c. With active though invisible wing, the minute humming-birds are often observed ; the metallic lustre of their plumage glistening in the sunbeam. . . . Far removed from the hamlets of men, sits the cock of the rock, with red plumage so brilliant, that some will say it is impossible to look steadfastly on it. It is a crested bird, about the size of a pigeon, and of an elegant form ; but I must not stop to describe at greater length, the great variety of the feathered tribe that are met with in these wilds ; but merely mention the names of the scarlet and blue aras, the great trumpeter, and powese or peacock-pheasant, the brown maraddee, the spotted tiger-bird, the blue-bird and rice-bird, the green sparrow, and above all the kishee-kishee, the size of a lark, but decorated with splendid plumage, the various colors of which are beau- tifully arranged, so as to enchant the eye of every beholder. " While on the Essequibo, I heard of a recluse, who collected insects, and I went in a canoe to visit him. . . . Mynheer Faber, a thin gray- headed man, displayed before me a rich and valuable entomological collection, consisting of the most beautiful varieties of the butterflies and moths, of beetles in cases of shining armor, lantern and fire-flies of differ- ent species, the remarkable walking-leaves, gigantic bush-spider, the red- footed tarantula, centipedes, a foot long, and scorpions, whose bite occa- sions fevers and death in a few hours. " As a pupil of one of the most distinguished naturalists of the age, Prof. Jamieson, I might have been expected to enter more fully into the natural history of this region, but I am fearful of fatiguing many of those who honor these pages with their perusal. I therefore briefly state, that I know of no fairer field in the universe for a naturalist to distinguish himself in, than that of Guyana. There are vast mineral treasures yet to be discovered in the mountain ranges ; the most valuable gums, spices, and medicinal plants abound in these romantic woods, scented by the sweet liyawa ; and in a morning's walk under the matted trees, or by the side of the lonely creek, new species of insects inhabiting the land or water, are continually to be met with." This sketch brings to mind, a passage in the narrative of Sir Walter Raleigh. His mind, quickly and deeply sensihle to the beautiful and pic- turesque in nature, was so struck with the aspect of Guyana, that he breaks forth into the following enthusiastic terms respecting it : "I never gaw a more beautiful country, nor more lively prospects ; hills so raised here and there over the valleys, the river winding into divers branches, the plains adjoining without bush or stubble, all fair green grass ; the ground of hard sand, easy to march on, either for horse or foot ; the deer crossing in every path, and the birds toward the evening singing in every tree ; with a thousand several tunes, cranes and herons of white, crimson, COTTON. 53 and carnation, perching on the river's side, the air fresh with a gentle easterly wind." This passage has, no doubt, been viewed by superficial readers, or the prejudiced enemies of Raleigh, as a mere political rhapsody, and contrib- uted, with the glowing terms in which, in other places he speaks of this country, to throw discredit upon his entire narrative. But, although it may be admitted that his enthusiasm led him to paint the scenery of Guyana with the pencil of a poet, the extract I have given from the account of a recent visitor to this region, is sufficient to acquit him of the charge of having framed the ground-work from his imagination, and even to excuse the warmth of his language. I will not indulge a conjecture, which of all the various natural pro- ductions of the region in which the White Sea or lake Parima is situated, or of the articles fabricated by the tribes who inhabited it, might have attracted to it visitors from other nations ; but will confine myself to those which are in no manner problematical. Wild cotton may be enumerated among them. Dr. Hancock, in his pamphlet entitled ' Observations,' &c, remarks : il The variety of valuable and interesting cottons in the interior of Guyana is very numerous." This is an article in great demand among the Indians, especially the Charibees, who manufacture it into cloth, of which they make their hamacks — and there are indications that they formerly made vestments of the same material. The variety of birds of beautiful plumage, which abound in that region, could not fail, also, to attract to it visitors from other parts, to procure ma- terials for the gay and splendid plumery with which all the Indians of Guyana are accustomed to array themselves. When we speak in Europe, observes Humboldt, of a native of Guyana, we figure to ourselves a man, whose head and waist are decorated with fine feathers of the macaw, the toucan, the lanager, and the humming-bird. The Charibees, and per- haps other nations, were besides, fond of having beautiful specimens of the feathered race among them, which they domesticated. Pinzon, in his voyage to South America, soon after Columbus, was presented, on the coast of Paria, as Martyr relates, "with a great multitude of peacocks, dead and alive, as well for his own use as to carry to Spain ; also, with par- rots of the greatest number, of every color." At Guadaloupe, Columbus found, around the houses of the Charibees, many household fowls, especially a splendid species of parrot, called guacamayo, or the macaw. The Essequibo journalist states, that on his visit to the chief Mahanerwa, a captain of the Charibees came there from the river Corentine, to trade for "spun cotton and rare birds." The valuable medicinal plants, with the virtues of which the Indians are acquainted — the odoriferous shrubs, the balsams and oils found in the interior parts of Guyana — the various beautiful woods growing there, of one of which, the letterwood — of extraordinary solidity, and variegated with marks — their bows and war-clubs are made, were probably formerly, as they are now, sought for in this region. 54 EL DORADO. The fatal woorara, or arrow-poison, used by all the Indians of Guyana, Is made by the Macoussies alone, one of the tribes in the mountainous region of Parima. The sarbacan, or blow-pipe, a straight and hollow reed, nine or ten feet long, through which a small arrow, about eight inches in length, poisoned at one end, is impelled by the breath ; is also obtained from them, who are the sole makers of it, and are the only na- tion who employ it in war. Other Indians obtain it, to use in killing birds or other small animals. Honey, we may be certain, was found abundantly among the tribes in the mountains of Parima, and was an article of traffic among them. The variety of the species of bees there, and the different kinds of honey made by the Indians, is a matter of astonishment. Although to researches in natural history, my attention was not directed while in Guyana, I was so struck with the beauty of a collection of pre- served specimens of this valuable insect, made by a naturalist on the Essequibo, that I purchased it of him, consisting of forty-two varieties ; and which, on my return to New- York, I presented to the Lyceum of Natural History of that city. I likewise obtained the Indian (arrowack) names for twenty-nine of these species, which facts were stated in a short paper I communicated to Professor Silliman's American Journal of Science. A great attraction to the White Sea of Parima, also, was no doubt the salt found there. This article was also in demand among the Indians; an evidence of which is seen in a fact stated by Martyr, in describing the visit of Pinzon to the coast of Paria — that the Indians at some distance from it, were accustomed to come to it to obtain salt ; which the Parians procured by allowing the water of the sea, when it rose and inundated a plain, to evaporate, and the salt was made into small cakes, with which they trafficked. From a fact stated by D'Acugna, it seems not improbable the Indians on the Amazon supplied themselves with this article from the lake Parima. The Tupinambas, says this early writer, are a very ingenious and intel- ligent people, and inhabit an island in this river, sixty leagues in length, which commences twenty-eight leagues below the river Cayari, nearly directly south of this lake. They informed him that, on the north side of the river, were seven provinces adjoining one another, very populous, but the inhabitants were of little courage — that there was another nation beyond them whose confines extended to these, with whom they had been long at peace, and had a regular trade with the different commodities with which each country abounded, and that the principal thing they had from them was salt, which came frsm a place not far distant from them. D'Acugna mentions this as a most interesting fact — not having met with this article in its natural state, in the course of his voyage — and even speaks of the importance this salt region would be to the inhabitants of the provinces of Peru.* * Discovery of the Amazon by Ch. D'Acugna, London, 1458. THE LAKE FESTIVAL.' 55 To these remarks, I add the following facts : that at the present day the Indians, in the interior of Guyana, are in the practice of bringing down the rivers Essequibo and Demerara, many curious and rare articles, the productions of the forests or their own fabrics, which always attract the attention of European visitors, who commonly purchase some of these "curiosities" to take with them on their return. Instead of giving a de- tail of them, I extract from Dr. Bancroft's History of Guyana, in 1764, an account of those which the Charibees and Ackoways were then in the practice of bringing down from the interior to traffick with the Europeans, viz : canoes, hamacks, beeswax, balsam capivi — a balsam called arreco- cerra — the roots of hiaree for fishing — oil of caraiba, which is collected in large gourds, resembling the palm-oil of Guinea — different kinds of curious woods ; letterwood ; ducalla-bolla ; ebony ; vanilla ; arnotta ; cassia festuta ; canulla alba ; wild nutmeg ; wild cinnamon • monkeys ; parrots; parroquets, &c. This account, compared with one given by Keymis, two hundred years before, while it proves how little the customs of the Indians have changed during that time ; furnishes, also, another instance of the accuracy of his statements. " From the mouth of the Co- rentine," he observes, "to the head, is twenty days, where the Guyanians dwell. Honey, cotton, silk, balsam, and brasil beds (hamacks,) may be had here in great plenty ; and all along the coast eastward, also, divers sorts of drugs, gums, and roots." The abundance of these articles along the coast, shows that the intercourse with the interior by the different rivers emptying into the Atlantic was great — for the hamacks were ob- tained only from the Charibees, who are in the interior, and some of the others were no produced on the low alluvial lands of the coast. Keymis says, he was told there was an infinite number of canoes in the lake. This would be the case if there was a large population there, for during the successive periods of inundation, each of three months or more, the inhabitants on the mountains would otherwise have no means of com- munication with each other ; and if this place was much resorted to, the visitors would come to it in canoes. The great quantity of them in the lake is also expressly stated by the Mariwin Inquirer. The ancient Indians, from the head of the Surinam, informed him, "that once in every third year, all the Caciques or lords and captains, some seven days' jour- ney from Monooan, do come to a great drinking, which continues for the space of ten days together, in which time they go sometimes fishing, fowl- ing and hunting. Their fishing is in the salt lake, where is abundance of canoes, and those very great. They have many fish-pools of standing water, wherein they have abundance of fish." These fish-pools are agreeable to Avhat was related to me by the Charibee chief, that after the lake had discharged itself there remained in it a pool, which was full of fish, called cassamaima; and if this was resorted to there would proba- bly be a number of such fish-pools, which the Indians would have no diffi- culty in making ; as the Macoussies, who now live near it, are in the practice of going there in the dry season to get water, by " digging a pit in it," as one of my informants stated. 56 ELDORADO. Limiting myself to a simple and strict detail of facts, I will not allow myself to imagine what consequences, besides those of mutual convenience for traffick, might have followed the assembling of Indians from various surrounding tribes, at this gathering place ; what alliances might have been formed, what schemes of war projected, and how far the state of the population throughout Guyana might have been influenced by it. Nor will I attempt to sketch the scene which the White Sea would, on these occasions present, with mountains around it and dispersed over it, covered with granitic rocks, the micaceous particles of which glistened in the sun ; or, as the Charibees said, "shone as glass,'"' the cabins of the inhabitants studding their sides to their very summit ; the various nations of every form and different costumes, but all gayly and fantastically arrayed — nor their occupations during these assemblings, either for traffick or amuse- ment; "the fishing in the salt lake;" the parties traversing the rocky and woody mountains in quest of quadrupeds or birds, or in collecting the natural productions of the country; the meetings for bargaining or ex- changing the articles found on the spot or brought from other parts, or their feasts and entertainments, always scenes of excitement and noisy revelry. I will only remark, that so large a body of water in the interior of Guyana, having the singular appearance of white — and like the sea, salt or saltish — the large collection of Indians which was probably around it, and the occasional gatherings there of those of surrounding regions, with the communications afforded by the different rivers, could not fail to give general celebrity to this place ; so that it appears to have been known along the whole coast of Guyana, at every river where voyagers stopped, although there was no magnificent city on the borders of the White Sea, nor its mountains abounded with the precious metals. CHAPTER IV. EXAMINATION OF THE RELATION OF JUAN MARTINEZ, A SPANIARD, WHO PRO- FESSED TO HAVE SEEN THE CITY WHETHER GOLD ARTICLES WERE IN EARLY TIMES POSSESSED BY THE INDIANS IN THE INTERIOR OF GUYANA, AND WHENCE OBTAINED REMARKS ON THE RELATION OF A CHARIBEE CHIEF ON THE ORONOKE, OF AN INVASION OF IT BY PERUVIANS. That " a rich and magnificent city" existed on the lake, Sir Walter Raleigh, however, states that he was positively informed. " I have been assured/' he observes, "by such of the Spaniards as have seen Manoa, the imperial city of Guyana, that, for its greatness, the riches, and for the excellent seat, it-far excelleth any in the world, at least so much of it as is known to the Spaniards, and it is situated upon a sea of salt water." The information on which he founds this statement was, as has been related, obtained from the Spaniards at Trinidad, especially from Admi- ral Don Berreo, the Governor of that island, who had, previously to him, made an expedition from New Grenada down the Oronoke in pursuit of El Dorado, which principally consisted of the relation of a certain Juan Martinez, who professed to have travelled to this city and seen it. Of this information, however, Raleigh gives no account, except of the rela- tion of Martinez, on which he appears mainly to rely for his belief of the existence of this long-sought-for city in the heart of Guyana. An exami- nation of it will therefore be made, to ascertain whether it justified the opinion which Berreo formed from it, and communicated to him. The circumstances which led Martinez to discover, as he reported, this new El Dorado, are thus stated by Sir Walter Raleigh : He belonged to the company of Diego Ordaz, who was one of those who sought El Dorado by ascending the Oronoke. He proceeded as far as the residence of the Charibee chief, with whom Raleigh made an alliance, of which he saw evidence in a large anchor of his ship lying at his port ; and while there, his whole stock of powder having been set on fire, Marti- nez, who had the chief chargp of it, was condemned to be executed. But the soldiers favored him, and tried every means to save his life, but could light on no other mode than placing him in a canoe and suffering it to float clown the river. It was carried down some distance, when it was taken up by some Indians, who, having never before seen a white person, car- ried him into the country to be wondered at, and went from town to town until they came to the great city of Manoa. The Emperor, after he had beheld him, caused him to be lodged in his palace and well entertained, but restrained him from travelling about the country. He was brought thither the whole way blindfolded. He lived there seven months, after 58 EL DORADO. which he obtained permission of the Emperor to depart, who sent with him a number of Indians to conduct him to the Oronoke, with as much gold as they could carry. But when he arrived near the river's side, the borderers robbed him and the Indians of all the treasure they had with them, save only two large gourds, which were filled with beads of gold curiously wrought. He then went down the Oronoke to Trinidad, and from thence came to the Island of Margueretta, and afterward to Porto Rico, where he died ; and in his last illness gave this relation, which Ber- reo informed Raleigh was still to be seen in the chancery of that island, and of which he had a copy. u It was this individual, Martinez," says Raleigh, " who firsf christened the city of Manoa El Dorado, which he did on the following account : "The Guyanians are remarkably addicted to drinking, exceeding all other people ; and at their festivals, when the Emperor carouseth with his captains and tributaries, those who pledge or acknowledge him have their bodies covered over with a kind of white balsam, called Curcai, and cer- tain servants of his blow gold dust through hollow canes upon them, until they are all shining from head to foot ; and thus adorned, they sit drink- ing by twenties and hundreds, and continue so sometimes six or seven days together. And from witnessing this, and for the abundance of gold which he saw in the city — the images of gold in the temples, the plates, armors, and shields of gold which they used in their wars — he called it El Dorado." Such is the foundation on which the magnificent city in the interior of Guyana has been erected. On an attentive examination, however, of this relation, it will be found entirely insufficient to support the splendid fabric created by Barreo and the Spaniards, and into the belief of which Raleigh was led. Martinez gives no relation of such things as are embraced in the idea of a civilized city, still less a magnificent one — well-built edifices, streets and squares. The abundance of gold, and the various gold articles which he describes to be in it, on which I shall presently remark, may all have been there, although it consisted only of a large collection of Indians, living in habitations very similar to those now seen in Guyana ; but who, like the Omaguas on the river Amazon, among whom such articles abound- ed, may have been somewhat more improved than the surrounding nations. But the relater calls this place El Dorado. It was Martinez, says Raleigh, who first gave to the city of Manoa this name. But it clearly appears, that he does not apply it from its possessing the accompaniments " of a rich and magnificent city," but, as he expressly states — because the Empe- ror and the principal men, had their bodies covered over with gold dust ; the abundance of gold in the city, the images of gold in the temples, the armors, plates, and shields of gold, &c. The term El Dorado, Gamilla, in his History of the Oronoke, states — as I have before observed — was first used in New Grenada and Peru, from a similar custom related to exist in some Indian nation ; and the same opinion is expressed by Humboldt. MARTINEZ AND BERREO T 59 Reports being spread among the inhabitants of those provinces, of a King, or Priest, whose body every morning was anointed and then covered with gold dust, and, at the same time, that the country which he governed abounded in gold — the name of El Dorado, signifying in the Spanish lan- guage, "the gilded," or, the gilded King, was applied by them to the whole region ; and when their minds were inflamed by these reports, by the mere force of imagination, a city was created, in which this gilded king resided, with his palace, and other stately edifices sumptuously decorated with gold. Martinez, in his relation, applies the term El Dorado, as has been seen, strictly as it was at first used ; but Berreo, the Governor of Trinidad, prepossessed with the idea of a rich and magnificent city, which he had imbibed in New Grenada, gave this coloring to the relation, and convey- ed the same impression of it to the mind of Raleigh. That this is a correct view, and that the place called Manoa, was even then only a collection of rude Indian habitations, is confirmed by a co- temporary witness. The Mariwin Inquirer, thirteen years only after the first voyage of Raleigh, gives the following relation on the subject. The ancient Indian, from the head of the Surinam, who gave him an account of the " fair and rich city of Monooan," added, " ten days within the land, every child can tell of the riches of Monooan." And then he gives the following description of this " fair and rich" city : " Their houses are made with many lofts and partitions in them, but not boarded, only with bars of wood, only, the lower floor is spread very smooth, and with fires hardened, as they do their pots :" merely, simple Indian cabins, only larger than ordinary. The cabins of the inhabitants east of this place, at the sources of the Essequibo, on the same Cordillera, at the present day, according to the relations I have given, are of large size. One of them, on mount Itaka, one of the Macoussie mountains, is described as forty- two feet square, by thirty-six feet high. But, whatever were the circumstances which led Sir Walter Raleigh into the belief of the existence of a rich and splendid city in the interior of Guyana, it is manifest, that it was not a fable invented by him, as his enemies charged against him — nor, that he listened with easy creduli- ty to the loose tales of the Indians — nor, even, that he was the first to frame this airy vision from the relation of Martinez ; for the views he formed on the subject were received from Berreo, who first created the splendid fabric; and, although it may be thought that he embraced them without sufficient examination, yet it will be seen, hereafter, that some extraordinary relations were subsequently made to him, by the Charibee chief on the Oronoke, calculated to give countenance to the ideas of the Spanish Governor. In regard to the fact stated by Martinez, which led him to apply the name of El Dorado to the " city of Manoa," that the Emperor, with his captains and tributaries at their festivals, have their bodies covered over with a white balsam, on which gold dust is blown, until they are all 60 ' ELDORADO. shining from head to foot, &c, it will not be difficult to give entire credit to it, although the city should be no more than the collection of Indian cabins described by the Mariwin Inquirer. This journalist also states, as has been related — " that once in every third year, all the Caciques, or lords and captains, once in every third year, come seven days' journey, from Monooan, to a great drinking, which continues for the space of ten days together," &c. Feasts and entertainments are of very frequent occurrence among the Indians of Guyana, and are always scenes of ex- cessive drinking. This is the case, particularly, with the Charibees. There is not an assembly held among them, either for business or pleas- ure, which is not attended with a festival. They are sometimes held by the inhabitants of a village among themselves. At others, one village invites neighboring ones, with whom they are on amicable terms. On these occasions, they array themselves in the gayest possible manner. An early writer, thus describes the appearance of some of them at these times. Besides being decorated with a profusion of gold and feathered ornaments, they painted their whole body with squares or other figures, of various colors, which were symmetrically arranged, and on these squares they attached the down of birds of different hues ; so that they appeared, at some distance, as if clothed in a suit of figured satin. It would not, therefore, be surprising, if some of the Indians, on these occa- sions, decorated themselves with glistening metallic ores. Humboldt, in fact, states, that the Guaynaves of the Rio Caura, (a river which is sup- posed to rise out of lake Parima,) are accustomed to stain themselves with arnotto, and to make broad transverse stripes on the body, on which they stick spangles of silvery mica. Seen at a distance, they appear to be dressed in laced clothes.* Rude nations in other regions, ornament themselves in the same showy manner. Mears, in his account of the in- habitants of Nootka Sound, on the N. W. coast of America, says — " Their faces are generally ornamented with a sort of red ochre. On visits of ceremony, every part of the body is daubed with it. When they go to war, black is the prevalent color, laid out in streaks on a black ground. We have sometimes seen them painted entirely white, at other times of a bright red color, over ichich they strewed a shining sand.] But particularly applicable to the subject, is a relation of Sir Robert Duddley, who made a voyage to the island of Trinidad, the year of Raleigh's expedition. He states, that a party whom he sent to examine the Oronoke, on their return informed him, among other things, that an Indian chief, on that river, gave them some plates of gold, and told them " of another rich na- tion, that sprinkled their todies with gold, and seemed to he gilt."% This testimony, so fully corroborative of Raleigh's statement, is unim- peachable ; as, not only was the writer unconnected with him, but arri- ved at Trinidad the first of February, 1595 ; which was before Raleigh left England — who sailed from it, the sixth of that month. And how little * Humboldt's Pers. Nar. ch. xxiv. t Mears's voy. to the N. W. coast of America. t Hackluyt's coll. of voy., 2nd vol.. p. 57, quarto edit. MARTYN'S DESCRIPTION.' Q\ he was under the influence of Raleigh, his journal shows : " In the time of my boat's absence, there came to me a pinnace of Plymouth, of which Captain Popham was chief — and if I had not lost my pinnaces, wherein I might have carried victuals, and some men, we had discovered further, the secrets of those places. Also, this captain and I stayed some six or eight days longer for Sir Walter, (who, as I surmised, had some purpose for this discovery,) to the end, that by our intelligence, and his boats, we might have done some good ; but, it seems, he came not in six or eight weeks after." A further proof of the existence of this custom among some of the nations of Guyana, is seen in certain interesting papers published at the end of this volume, (Appendix No. II.) and which furnish, also, strong evidence that an opinion was prevalent among the Spaniards, at that period, of the existence of El Dorado in the interior of Guyana, and of the abundance of gold to be found in that country. The other circumstances related by Martinez, which contributed to in- duce him to apply the name El Dorado, to the city of Manoa, "the abundance of gold in the city — the images in the temples — the plates, armors and shields of gold, which they used in their wars," we can have no difficulty in believing, were seen by him in the city of Manoa. Ornaments of gold, there is reason to believe, were in early times worn by the Guyanians. Marty n, describing some of the Indians on the coast of Paria, seen by Columbus, says : " There came innumerable people in canoes to the ships, the greater part having chains about their necks, garlands on their heads, and bracelets on their arms of gold and of pearls ; and that so commonly, that our women, at plays and triumphs, have not greater plenty of stones, of glass and crystal in their garlands, crowns, girdles, and such other 'tirements ; ' and that when some of the Spaniards went ashore, of the Indians they saw, there were few or none that had not a collar, chain, or a bracelet of gold and pearls, and many had all."* " The Indians of Cumana," says the same writer, " also wore crowns of gold. All who could obtain them, were delighted with them." These regions, it is true, are not a part of Guyana, but contiguous to it ; yet as the Indians referred to — as I have shown in my history of the Charibees — belonged to this nation, who are spread over Guyana, there can be no doubt that gold ornaments were also common in this region. The pearls were obtained only on the coast. One of the gold ornaments of the Charibees was a plate in the form of a crescent, called by them caracolli, worn at the ears, and a large one hanging at the breast, suspended from the neck. One was sometimes worn also at the nose, and another at the under lip. Raleigh speaks, also, of the abundance of gold ornaments in Guyana, in another part of his narrative, in connection with the subject of El Dorado. " The Indians of Trinidad," he observes, " and the cannibals, (Charibees,) of Dominica, also the Indians of Paria, and all those other ■ ■ * Decade, I, 62 EL DORADO. Indians inhabiting near about the mountains that run from Paria, through the province of Venezuela and in Moraca, have plates of gold from Guyana, and on the Amazon." Thevet writes, "that the people wear croissants (crescents,) of gold; 'for in that form the Guyanians commonly make them,"* and that the Governor of Trinidad had, by his trade with the Indians, and his ransom of divers of them, obtained great store of gold plates, and eagles of gold, and images of men, divers birds, fishes, and other ornaments curiously wrought in gold."f These statements, al- though confirming his relations of Manoa, cannot be doubted, as one part of it is derived from Thevet, an historian of undoubted credit; and in another, he refers to a prominent official character, in the vicinity of that country. And Lawrence Keymis, his successor and associate, gives a similar account, and points directly to the region of Parima, as the place from which these gold ornaments came. " From the mouth of the Corentine to the head, is ten days, where the Guyanians dwell. . . . Some images of gold, spleen stones, and others may be gotten on this coast. They get their moons (crescents,) and other pieces of gold by exchange, taking for one of their greater canoes, one piece or image of gold with three heads, and after that rate for lesser canoes. :{: The head of the Corentine is very near that of the Essequibo." Robert Harcourt, in the account of his voyage to the Oyapoke, in 1608, observes : "As I daily conversed among the Indians, it chanced that one of them presented me with a half-moon of metal, which held somewhat more than one-third gold, and the rest copper ; another also gave me a little image of the same metal, and of another I bought a spread eagle, which he obtained in Guyana, {he same which he said did abound with images of gold, by them called carrecoury."§ And the Mariwin Inquirer, his associate, says : " The ancient Indian showed me a piece of metal, fashioned like an eagle, and I guess it was about the weight of eight or nine ounces, Troy weight. It seemed to be gold ; or at least two parts gold, and one copper. I demanded, where he had that eagle ; and his answer was, that he had it of his uncle who dwelt among the Weearapoyns, in the country called Sher- rumirremary, near the Cassipagotos country, where is a great store of these images. Further, he said, that at the head of Selinama (Surinam) and Mariwini, there were great store of the half-moons, which he called by the name of unnaton." The Cassipagotos were, according to Ra- leigh, one of the nations about lake Cassipa or Parima. " The ancient Indian affirmeth, that within the city, at the entrance of their houses, they hung caracoroure on the posts, which I take to be ima- ges of gold." These were the caracollis or crescents of the Charibees. From these passages it appears, that the images of gold seen by Marti- nez, at Manoa, were probably only the gold ornaments worn by the Guy- * Cayley, vol. 1. p. 193. t Cayley, vol. 1. p. 207. . t Cayley, vol. 2, p, 386. § Purchas, Book 6. chap. XVI. MOUNT ORADDOO. 63 anians. The caracollis were called images, because they were idola- trous emblems of the moon. Being suspended at the door-posts of the houses, is agreeable to the custom of ancient idolaters, who placed their idols at the entrance to their houses. And this circumstance suggests an important idea. These gold plates, thus hung up before the houses in Manoa, have, perhaps, originated the embellishment usually introduced in the descriptions of El Dorado — before it was entirely discarded, as ima- ginary and fabulous — that the roofs of its houses were covered with " tiles, of gold." The equivocal meaning of the term, gold plates, may have occasioned all the illusion. The temples in which, Martinez relates, were images of gold, may be any houses, appropriated to religious purposes and do not necessarily denote remarkable structures. The words, " temples" and " Emperor," are used by Raleigh, from ideas he had previously formed, of the " mag- nificence of the city of Manoa." But whence were obtained the gold ornaments, and other articles, found, as related by Martinez, at this place ? Does native gold exist in the mountains of Parima ? and did the inhabitants, themselves, manufac- ture it ? In regard to the first question, the following are all the facts and opin, ions I have been able to collect : The Mariwin Inquirer gives the following statement, confirmatory of the relations of Raleigh: "The ancient Indian, from whom his other accounts of this region were received, told him of a mountain at the head of D'Essekebe, which is called Oraddoo, where is a great rock of white spar, which hath streams of gold in it, about the breadth of a goosequill ; and this he affirmeth very earnestly. Also, he spoke of a plain seven or eight days' journey from the mountain, where is a great store of gold, in grains as big as the top of a man's finger ; and after the floods are fallen, they find them ; which place is called Mumpara. Further, he spoke of a valley, not far distant from thence, which is called Wancoobanona, which hath the like. And he said, they gather them the space of two months, together ; which are presently after the great rains which wash away the sand and gravel from the grass, and then they may perceive the gold glistening in the ground. And of this they are very charie. And the captains and priests, or pecays, do charge the Indians very strictly, yea, with punishment of the whip, that they be secret.";: The mountain which is mentioned, called the Oraddoo, near the Essequibo, is probably mount Maho, south of lake Amucu ; which Humboldt says, is at this day called Ucucuamo, which signifies mountain of gold. A recent visitor to the vicinity of this region, Dr. Hancock, ia a com- munication to Mr. Martin, before mentioned, makes the following, among other remarks, in regard to the geological character of this region : " The principal component parts of the interior mountains are granite, -orphyry, and their various modifications — all denoting a primitive forma- m ; while the exterior ranges, toward the coast, of a minor elevation, 64 EL DORADO. are chiefly composed of indurated clays, with sand and gravel-stones-— indicating a secondary order of formation. Veins of quartz are very common in traversing the great mass of granite, and most perspicuous along the channel of the river, in the dry season. Vast quantities of iron are met with in the mountains Some indurated clays, of great hardness, have been found mixed with sand, micas, calcareous earth, and oxyde of iron, amorphous, and full of particles of a metallic brilliancy. Substances of a metallic nature, having the appearance of ore, are also very abundantly met with in the mountains, but still more plentiful among the falls or rapids of the river. Rock crystal is also found upon several mountains of Demerara, growing, it may be said, out of beds of quartz Red agate, is found on the Rio Meu, (Maho,) opposite, and not far from, the crystal mountain." On the subject of the existence of gold in this region, a gentleman, whom I have before mentioned, who held an official station in Demerara, in 1765, gave me in writing, in 1820, the following statement : That he lias seen gold-dust brought by the Indians from the head of the Esse- quibo, which was given to the Director General of the colony on that river, who sent it to Holland, where ear-rings were made of it, which were sent over to him. That the West India Company of Holland, employed a company of miners on the Essequibo in 1735, who com- menced the working of a mine, for gold, on that river ; but disliking its nearness to the seat of government, removed to another on the Cayouni. After making some progress in the work there, it was suspended in con- sequence of the mortality among the miners. The leader of the corps was Nicholas Hortsman, who, from a disagreement with the Govern- ment, fled from the colony, by ascending the Essequibo, and crossing over the country to the Brazils. (This was the individual mentioned by Hum- boldt, and of whose journal he had a perusal.) The working of the mine was not resumed, from the fatality of the occupation to Europeans, and the opinion of the Dutch Government, that it was more beneficial to the colony to attend to agricultural pursuits, than mining operations. On the same subject, Humboldt makes the following remarks : " Amid the mountains of Encaramada, (which are on the Oronoke — part of the Cordillera of Parima,) we cannot help inquiring whence the gold was obtained, which Juan Martinez and Raleigh profess to have seen in the hands of the Indians. From what I have observed in that part of Ame- rica, I am led to think that gold, like tin, is sometimes disseminated, in an almost imperceptible manner, in the mass itself, of granitic rocks, with- out being able to admit that there is a ramification and intertwining of small veins. Not long ago, the Indians of Encaramada found, in the Quebrada del Tigre, (ravine of the Tiger,) a piece of gold two lines in diameter, and appeared to have been washed along by the waters.* " We are not justified in denying the existence of any auriferous land in that extent of country, which stretches between the Oronoke and Ama- * Humboldt's Peis, Nar., vol. i. p. 470. THE E PURE ME I. (55 zon. . . . What I saw of it between two and eight degrees of latitude and sixty-six and' seventy-one of longitude, is entirely composed of gra- nite and of gneiss, passing into micaceous and calcaceous slate. These rocks appear naked, in the lofty mountains of Parima, as well as in the plains of the Atabapo and the Cassiquiari. The granite prevails there; over other rocks ; and though, in both continents, the granite of ancient formation is pretty generally destitute of gold, we cannot thence conclude that the granite of Parima contains no stratum of auriferous quartz. On the east of the Cassiquiari, toward the sources of the Oronoke, we saw the number of these strata and these veins increase. The granite of those countries appears to belong to a more recent formation, perhaps posterior to the gneiss Now, the least ancient granite, are the least desti- tute of metals." '•' We must not be surprised, if, since the Europeans settled themselves, in these wild spots, we hear less of the plates of gold, gold dust, and. amulets of gold, which could heretofore be obtained from the Charibees and other wandering nations by barter.*" From these facts, the existence of native gold in the region of Parima, seems not admissible of doubt, though to what extent remains very uncer- tain. But admitting this to be a fact, were the ornaments worn by the Indians inhabiting it, made by themselves or brought from other parts ?' Raleigh reports a relation of the Charibee chief, on the Oronoke, with whom he made an alliance, in favor of the former view. This chief informed him " that the plates and images of gold worn by the Guayan- ians, were made by the Epuremei ; and that the gold of which they were made, was not severed . from the stone ; but that on the lake Manoa, and' in a multitude of rivers, they gathered it in grains of perfect gold, as big as small stones ; and that they put to it a part of copper, otherwise they could not work it ; and that they used a great earthen pot, with holes. And when they had mingled the gold and copper together, they fastened canes to the holes ; and so, with the breath of men they increased the fire till the metal ran, and so made those plates and images. "f This minute description, none but the most prejudiced enemy of Raleigh, can suppose was fabricated by him. The manner in which the Epure- mei gathered the gold, is agreeable to the relation lately given from the. Mariwin Inquirer. And he likewise states, that a piece of metal was shown him, which was a composition of golJ and copper ; and Robert Harcourt the same. Independent of the testimony of Raleigh, it cannot be absolutely denied that some of the ornaments and other articles of gold, found at that period among the Indians of Guyana, were made by themselves. Gumilla, the historian of the Oronoke, a century since states, that the Charibees on its borders continued to wear plates of gold, manufactured by themselves. And Humboldt says, that at present, the Indians on that river ornament * Humboldt's Pers. Nar., ch. xxiii. t Cayley, vol. 1. p. 258. 5 66 ELDORADO. themselves with pieces of silver or gold, which they work themselves in their own manner.* It is possible, however, that the greater part of these gold articles were brought from the river Amazon. Some 01 the tribes on that river had arrived at a higher state of improvement than existed generally in Guy- ana ; for which there was a sufficient cause : — the communication afforded by its various tributaries which descend from the eastern side of the Andes, with the provinces of Peru, and New-Grenada. " The Incas," observes Humboldt, " had extended their arms and arts as far as the river Yupura, or Caqueta, which is but a short distance west of the Rio Negro." West of the Yupura, and near it, was the province of Aguas, or Om-aguas, commencing three hundred and seventy leagues below the Napo, and extending along the river, and the islands in it, two hundred leagues. The river Potamayo, on the north side — the next considerable river to Yupura — falls into the Amazon, opposite this territory. This nation has been already spoken of, as more improved than the other tribes ; that they cultivated cotton, and made vestments of it ; wore also plates of gold, as ornaments, and had other gold articles in abundance. To what has been lemarked concerning them, I add, from D'Acugna, that they were a very warlike, and at the same time, a commercial people. " Some of the cot- ton-stuffs they made were very fine, and wove with threads of different colors ; and so neatly made, that the threads could not be distinguished, and it seemed as if the cloth was painted. These stuffs they made not only to gratify their fancy and for their own use, but to trade with their neigh, bors, who sought them with great avidity." This is a very remarkable nation, for it appears, from D'Acugna, they are the only one on the Amazon who wear apparel. It is this nation, as before observed, who were proba- Wy the Omegas, reported to inhabit a country abounding in gold, where the first El Dorado was sought, and whom Urra professed to have seen. Some further particulars regarding this nation are collected from Orel- lana's voyage down the Amazon. He came to a province on the north side " called Machiparo, very populous, and bordering on another territory called Aomagua," (the Omaguas.) He then describes a number of towns he passed after leaving Machiparo. On the third day he came to a small but handsome town, and though some opposition was made, they entered at, and found much provision in a house, with fine earthenware, as jars, pitchers, and other sorts of vessels, glazed and painted in lively colors, all which things the Indians said were to be had up in the country, besides much gold and silver. Came to several other towns — one of them was divided into several wards, with each of them a road to the river ; another, from which went great roads paved with rows of trees ; and another, where they found some good cotton garments and a place of worship, with weapons hanging in it, and two mitres, like those of o ir bishops, with several colors ; afterward, to one '.irough which was a rivulet, and in the * Humbold'ts Pers. Nar., vol. 1, p. 193. THE YORI MANS. $7 middle a great square, where they obtained provisions. All along there were villages, and some very large towns. * " Eighteen leagues below this province, on the south side," observes D'Acugna, " is that of the Yorimans, a very numerous and warlike nation who extend for sixty leagues along the river and the islands. He came to a village of theirs, which was the largest he had seen on the river. The houses were contiguous to each other, and continued so for the dis- tance of a league. Each of the houses contained not one family, but in those which were least filled there were four or five families. As he left this place, he continually met with the villages of this nation, one after another. Two leagues below the province of the Yorimans, on the south side, is the river Cachiguara, the first Indians on which are called by the same name — all the rest are called Caciguaries, and wear great plates of gold at their ears and nostrils. Some space farther down, on the south side, are the Caripunas and Yorimans ; " the most ingenious and handy craftsmen that we saw in the country. They make chairs, in the forms of beasts, with so much curiosity, and so commodiously, that none can be contrived better. They also cut a raised figure so much to the life, and so exactly, upon a coarse piece of wood, that many of our carvers might take pattern by them ', and these things were made not only to gratify their fancy, or for their own use, but there- by they maintained a trade with their neighbors." j- With the fondness for travelling and intercourse with each omer, which characterize the American Indians, there cannot be a doubt that the na- tions on the Amazon were all well acquainted with the countries around them, the rivers which passed through them, and the regions to which they led. Some of them, besides, being of a warlike and commercial character, these rivers would be sometimes traversed ty them, either to conquer the territories upon them, or on trading expeditions ; and the mi- grating disposition of the American aborigines wou^d sometimes induce them to change their residence. The Rio Negro, <-he largest arm of the Amazon, could not fail to be known to the nation upon it to a great dis- tance. A circumstance connected with it, besdes its superior size and importance, would greatly contribute to give it notoriety — the communi- cation which exists between it and the (Tronoke, by the Cassiquiari. There can be scarce a doubt, that this ri^er was in early times greatly traversed ; that a constant intercourse listed between the Amazon and Oronoke through it; and that probacy some of the, tribes on the latter moved through it from the former. An evidence of this is seen in the multitude of nations which D'Acvgna relates were upon it, at the time he made his voyage. The Rio Nee 'o being knrwn, the Rio Eranco, its principal branch, must also, from the like reives of curiosity, conquest or traffic, have been explored and traversed to its sou! be by some of the Indians on the Amazon ; and the Wlvte Sea of Parima could not but have been known. * Heneia, vol. j. t D'Aucusna, lxiii. $g ELDORADO. The same causes which gave it celebrity on the coast of Guyana and on the Oronoke, would spread its fame on the Amazon by this river, whose many branches, over an extent of more than two hundred miles, rise out of it. It would, hence, not be surprising if one or more of the warlike, com- mercial, and partially improved people on the Amazon, had at a very early period ascended this river to its source, and established in the region of Parima a community somewhat superior to the other tribes of Guyana, and introduced there a great portion of the gold plates and other articles of gold related to be in it, in the time of Raleigh. Respecting "the armors and shields of gold," described by Juan Marti- nez, as seen by him " in the city of Manoa," we are not required to deny their existence, although the state of improvement there should be no other than that I have supposed, and as existed on the Amazon. " Shields of gold" are spoken of as having been seen among the Indians on that river soon after the discovery of it. The Brazillian savages, who brought to Peru the first account of the Omegas, (Omaguas, probably,) which led to the expedition of Orsua, said that they had shields of gold set with emeralds. They were, perhaps, only plated with gold, to render them a more defensive armor, where no other metal existed. "Armors of gold,'" I do not find mentioned in the voyages on the Amazon ; but if shields of gold were used, it is nut improbable those who had them had also breast- plates covered with gold, and other defensive armor of the same kind. Such were found tt an early period after the discovery of this Continent, among some American Indians, as on the coast of Yucatan, whose inhabitants were in the same state of partial civilization as the Omaguas — who wore cotton vestments — and, like them, had gold plates and other ornaments of gold in abundance. Grivalja, who made a voyage to this coast soon after Colum- bus, was presented by the Cacique, relates Herrera, " with plates of gold, and some thin ■ board*} covered with gold for armor, which Grivalja put on, and had as complete a^et of gold armor as if it had been of steel." He also presented him "with a Kead-piece, covered with thin plates of gold ; breast- plates, some all gold, anaothers of wood covered with gold ; several cover- ings for targets of fine goll, some all gold, and others of the bark of trees covered."* But on the subject of the ehjgration of tribes from the south to the re- gion of Parima, we are not left nitirely to conjecture. One nation near the Amazon, it is certain, was not only acquainted with the Rio Branco, but had ascended it and established hjelf there. D'Acugna, I have observ- ed before, in speaking of the plates oJ gold he saw among the Indians on the Amazon, designates a country where he supposes they were obtained, or, at least, the gold from which they we>- e made. " On going up the Yupura, you meet with the river Iquiari, wVich the Portuguese call the Golden river. It springs from the foot of a mountain hard by. Here the natives amass gold together, in prodigious quantities. They find it all * Herrera, Dec. 11, Book 1, ch. iv. THE MANAOS. 69 in spangles or grains of gold, of a good alloy, which they beat till they form those little plates, which they hang at their ears and noses. The people of this country that find this gold, trade with it among their neigh- bors, who are called the Mavagus." " These people," says Condamine, " are the Manaos," and he makes on this passage, the following remarks : " The Manaos, according to P. Fritz, (a missionary, who passed over the country later than D'Acugna, and constructed a map of it,) were a warlike nation, dreaded by its neigh- bors. For a long time, it resisted the arms of the Portuguese ; but there are now, many of them established on the Rio Negro. Some of them still make incursions in the territories of the savages, and from them the Portuguese purchase slaves. P. Fritz says expressly, in his journal, that the Manaos whom he saw, who came to traffick with the Indians on the borders of the Oronoke, obtained their gold from the Iquiari, and lived on the borders of a river named Yarubesh. By making inquiries, I learned that in ascending the Yupura five days, you come to a lake on the right hand, which is crossed in a day, called Marahi, or Parahi, which, in the Brazillian language, signifies water of the river ; and that thence, drawing the canoe over those parts which are bare, but are inundated during the floods, you enter into a river called the Yurubesh, by which you descend in five days to the Rio Negro, which some days higher receives the Quiquiari, which has many falls, and comes from a country of mountains and mines. Can it be doubted, that these are the Yurubesh and Iquiari ? and that the former rises in a lake in the interior ? In the map of P. Fritz is placed a large village of Manaos, in the same district. I could obtain no positive intelligence of it, which is not extraordinary, as the nation of Manaos have been transplanted and dispersed. But it appears very probable, from this capital of the Manaos, has been fabricated the city of Manoa. P. Fritz writes the name Manaves. The French trans- lator of D'Acugna disfigures this name, by writing Mavagus. The Por- tuguese write it at present, Manaos and Manaus." This idea of Condamine, of the origin of the name Manao, in reference to a place in this region also, explains it as applied by Sir Walter Raleigh, to a supposed city on lake Parima. The Manaos or Mahanaos are, also, one of the tribes at present about that lake. Their name is in the list of nations in this locality, which I received in the interview I had with the Charibee chief of the Essequibo ; and the Macoussie Indian, who also gave me an account of that lake, said Mahanaos and Ackowavs live about it. M. De G , of Demerara, protector of the Indians on the Essequibo, a gentleman of the first respectability in that colony, and a long resident in it, stated also, this fact to me, without any reference to the present subject, " and that they were once a powerful nation, and caused much dread." La Cruz, in his map, places them about the east branch of the Essequibo, and writes the name Majanaos, or Manaos. That these Mahanaos are the same nation with those on the Rio Negro, there can be no doubt. The latter were aware of the communi- 70 EL DORADO." cation afforded by the Rio Branco, with Dutch, now British Guyana. Southey, in his ' History of Brazil,' observes : " The remotest establish- ment on the Rio Negro, is S. Jose des Marybatanes, on the right bank, four hundred and eighty-five leagues from the city of Para, and nine leagues below the mouth of the Cassiquiari, which unites it with the Rio Negro. Between S. Jose and Lumaloga, a distance of about one hun- dred and twelve leagues, there were about seventeen settlements. Luma- loga stands upon the right bank. The inhabitants are a mixed race of Manaos, Bares, and Banibas. A little above it, the river Hijaa disem- bogues, which is remarkable for having been the head-quarters of a Manao chief, by name Ajuricaba, formidable in his day, and still famous in these parts. The Manaos were the most numerous tribe upon the Rio Negro Ajuricaba was one of the most powerful Caciques of this powerful nation, about the year 1720, and made an alliance with the Dutch of the Essequibo, with whom he traded by the way of the Rio Branco. The trade, on his part, consisted in slaves. In order to obtain them, he hoisted the Dutch flag, scoured the Rio Negro, and captured all the Indians on whom he could lay hands.* It appears, from another writer, that the inhabitants on the Rio Negro had, at a much earlier period, a knowledge of this internal communica- tion. Thirty leagues before you come to this river, observes D'Acugna, in 1639, is the river Basurura, which enters the Amazon on the north side. It extends a great distance into the country and forms several great lakes, so that the country is divided into divers large islands, which are peopled with an infinite number of inhabitants, who are called Cara- buyavas — among some of whom we saw iron tools and weapons, such as hatchets, halberds, bills and knives ; and on asking by his interpreters whence they had them, they replied, that they bought them of the peo- ple of the country who dwell nearest the sea, on that side ; who were white men like us, used the same arms, swords and guns, and had houses upon the sea-coast, and had light hair ; which was sufficient to satisfy us they were the Dutch, who, in 1638, invaded Guyana, and made themselves masters of it. How this intercourse was carried on, he learned when he came to the Rio Negro ; for he was informed there that it had a large arm, which came near another great river which empties into the sea at the north, where the Dutch have their settlements ; which arm was, no doubt, the Rio Branco. He supposes the great river which it approaches, to be the river Phillipe, or Smooth river, which empties into the North Cape ; for he is certain it could not be the Oronoke, which is too far north. Of the Essequibo, he appears to have been entirely ignorant — and it was on this river that the first settlements of the Dutch in Guyana were made.f These facts furnish a satisfactory explanation of this rumored city of Manoa on lake Parima, to which Juan Martinez, and after him Raleigh, applied the name of El Dorado ; and renders that which the Mariwui * Hist, of Brazil, vol. 3. pp. 710, 7U. t D'Acugna, cli. Ixiv and Uv. THEMAHANAOS. 71 Inquirer states the ancient Indian from the head of Surinam gave it> Parroowa Parrocare Monoan, properly translated, White Sea of the Manaos, or Manoas. I have seen the name Mahanaos in a list of Indian nations of Guyana, written Mahanoas, with the vowels reversed. It is contracted, as that of the Charibee chief, Mahanerwa, is commonly pro- nounced Manerwa. This powerful nation, making its conquests in every direction, there can be no doubt, from what has been stated, ascended the Rio Branco, and established itself in the mountains of Parima, in the midst of which lies this lake, and formed there a large settlement, or community 3 which bore its name, and where it introduced an abundance of orna- ments and other articles of gold. And as it probably kept up a con- stant communication with its primitive abode, there must have been a constant influx of them into this region, from which they were spread over Guyana. Condamine states that P. Fritz relates, that in 1687, he saw arrive eight or ten canoes of the Manaos, who, from their habitations! on the banks of the Yurubesh, availed themselves of the inundations to trade with his Catechumens on the north bank of the Amazon ; that thev were accustomed to carry, among other things, small plates of beaten, gold, which they received in exchange from the Indians of the Iquiari. The European colonist, residing on the Essequibo, mentioned at page 37, related to me, that in 1783, he witnessed on the Rippununi the last battle fought between the Charibees and Cannibals, by which he meant the Ma- hanaos, as they are so called by the Charibees, who have themselves; been similarly characterized, but unjustly, by Europeans. The Ma- hanaos must, even then, have been a considerable nation ; for it appears they were able to resist this powerful and most courageous tribe, who, although they have subjugated all the others at the sources of the Esse- quibo, and hold there a predominant sway, have not advanced west of the Rippununi. The view which I have thus given, of the origin of the name of the city of Manoa, in the narrative of Sir Walter Raleigh, is different from that entertained by Humboldt. He remarks, there is no doubt that the whole region from the Caqueta, or Yupura, where Condamine places the Mahanaos, to the Cordillera of Parima, was, at first, generally denomina- ted the golden country, or the Dorado, though the expeditions were direct- ed to two points ; the space between the Caqueta and the Rio Negro, which he terms the Dorado of the Omaguas, and that between the Essequibo and the Oronoke, which he calls the Dorado of Parima ; but he denies that the idea of Manoa, or the rich city, and the gilded king, was ever applied to the latter — that the information Raleigh received of Manoa, had reference to the former ; and that the whole narrative of Martinez is a pure fiction. " I believe," he says, " I can demonstrate, that the fable of Juan Martinez, spread abroad by the narrative of Raleigh, was founded on the adventure of Juan Martinez de Albujar,well known to the Spanish histo- rians of the Conquest, and who, in the expedition of Pedro de Sylva, fell 72 EL DORADO. into the hands of the Charibees of the lower Oronoke. . . . After having wandered among the Charibees, the desire of rejoining the whites led him by the Essequibo to the island of Trinidad. ... I know not whether he died at Porto Rico ; but it cannot be doubted, that it was he who learned from the Charibee traders, the name of the Manaos of Urubesb," (Uara- baxa, a branch of the Rio Negro, the original seat of this nation). The Juan Martinez of Raleigh, may have been the individual Albujar ; but there is nothing which prevents the belief, that Albujar himself travelled to the place he describes, and gives an account of what he saw. The idea of Humboldt, that the author of the relation attributed by Ra- leigh to Martinez, was never there, and that the relation is purely ficti- tious, founded on reports of the Manaos of Yurubesh,and consequently either invented or imagined b)^ Raleigh, or Berreo ; is evidently derived from an opinion he had previously adopted, that no such place exists in Guyana. But, in opposition to it, I have already shown, that Juan Marti- nez is not the only person who, at that time, spoke of a place called Manoa, situated upon a lake in the interior of Guyana — that it was heard of, by several voyagers on the coast — by Keymis, at the Oronoke, Essequibo and Oyapoke rivers — by Berrie, on the Corentine — and by the Mariwin Inquirer, the associate of Robert Harcourt, in the most distinct manner, from an Indian from the head of the Surinam. Humboldt, himself, also observes, when he had arrived at Esmeralda, the last post on the Oronoke, which is west of the site of this supposed city, nearly in the same latitude, "so near the sources of the Oronoke, we heard of no- thing in these mountains but the proximity of El Dorado — the lake Pari- raa, and the ruins of the great city of Manoa."* Further, De Pons, in his map of Venezuela, &c, before mentioned, published in 1805, prepared from observations made by him, during a four years' residence in the Spanish territories, places upon the east side of his lake Parima, which figures conspicuously upon it, "Manoa, the supposed capital of Dorado:" designated by a mark. Such are the ideas entertained at so late a period, in Venezuela and Spanish Guyana, on this subject. But it will be here- after shown, that, in 1775, an Intendant of Angustura was induced, by the representations of an Indian, to send an expedition expressly to discover this rich and splendid city in the interior of Guyana. In this region, too, it was thought to exist by the French, after they had formed their colony of Cayenne. In 1674, was published a work, by two missionaries, entitled, "Journal of the Travels of John Grillet and Francis Bechemel, into Guyana, in order to discover the great lake of Parima, and the many cities said to be situated on its banks, and rejntted the richest in the world." I am inclined, indeed, to think, that the name of Manoa was princi- pally applied to a city or place on lake Parima. While it is often men- tioned by visitors to the coast of Guyana, neither Orellana, nor D'Acug- na — who made their voyage down the Amazon, before Condamine — heard * Humboldt's Fers. Narr., ch. xxiv. CHIEF'S RELATION. 73 it on this river, which could not fail to have reached their ears, if a place called by this name was situated in this region. D'Acugna, # indeed, supposes the space between the Yurubesh and the Iquiari, to be the site of the golden country and lake ; but he does not speak of the city of Manoa, or mention, at all, this name. Condamine was the first that con- nects it with this region, which he does, as the Mahanaos residing there explain the origin of the name ; — but he seems to take it entirely from Raleigh's narrative ; for, to this place, also, he transfers the lake Parima — of which he knew nothing. " It is no other," he says, " than the little lake Mari-hi, or Para-hi, which communicates with the Yupura, a word which might easily have been changed into Parima" — an idea having as little foundation as that of an English writer, who thinks that the lake in- Guyana took its name from Lord Willoughby, of Parham, who obtained the first grant of Surinam, and that he also gave his name to Paramaribo, (that fine sounding Indian word,) the capital of that colony. The name may, however, have been applied by the Indians to both places, in consequence of the Mahanaos being the principal nation in each ; but this is immaterial to my purpose, which is only to explain the origin of it, as designating a city in the interior of Guyana, and the rela- tions made concerning it. Connected with the account which Sir Walter Raleigh has given of the rich and magnificent city of Manoa, or El Dorado, which he received from the Governor of Trinidad and other Spaniards, he relates other cir- cumstances concerning it, communicated to him by the Charibee chief on the Oronoke, with whom he made an alliance, which contributed not less, in the minds of some, to give interest to his narrative, while it furnished further materials to his enemies to represent him as a weak dupe of his credulity, or a dishonest fabricator of romantic tales, to impose on that of the public. The relation of the Charibee chief he thus gives : After acquainting him with the object of his visit to the Oronoque, and making inquiries of him respecting Guyana, its extent, and the nations inhabiting it, the chief answered : " That all his people, with all those down the river toward the sea, as far as Emeria, (the last province,) were of Guyana, and that all the nations between the river and those moun- tains in sight, called Wacaraima, were of the same cast and appellation, and that on the other side of those mountains was a valley, called the valley of Amariocapana. In all that valley the people were of the ancient Guyanians ; and that, in regard to the nations on the other side of the mountains, beyond the valley, he said that he remembered in his father's lifetime — when he was very old, and himself a young man — that there came down in that large valley of Guyana a nation, from so far off as the sun slept ; with so great a multitude, as they could not be numbered aor resisted ; that they wore large coats and hats of crimson color, and were called Oreiones and Epuremei, and who slew and rooted out the ancient people, who were very numerous, except two — the Iwaraqueri and the 74 EL DORADO. Cassipagotos ; that they had built a great town, called Macureguarai, at the said mountain foot, at the beginning of the great plains of Guyana, which have no end ; and that their houses have many rooms, one over another ; and that therein their great King kept three thousand men, to defend the borders against them, and withall daily to invade and slay them. But, that of. late years, since the Christians threatened to invade his territories and theirs, they were all at peace, and traded with one another, except the Iwaraqueri and the Cassipagotos.* He told me further, that four days' journey from his town was Macureguarai, and that they were the nearest of the Epuremei, and the first town of apparelled and rich people ; and that all those plates of gold, which were scattered among the borderers, and carried to other nations, far and near, were from there, and were there made ; but that those of the land within were far finer, and were fashioned after the image of men, beasts, birds, and fishes." f This relation of the Charibee chief possesses great interest, from the names by which the invaders of Guyana are called ; " the Oreiones and Epuremei ;" for the Oreiones were the lords and nobles of Peru, and must therefore refer to an invasion of Peruvians. The " large coats and red hats of crimson color," which they wore, are besides not applicable to any savage and uncivilized nation, and more appropriate to the inhabit- ants of Peru than to any other people of South America. Sir Walter Raleigh, not doubting of this, immediately connects it with the flight of one of the Incas into Guyana, and supposes that it occasioned a highly improved state of society in it. "Because," he observes, "there may arise some doubt how this empire of Guyana is become so populous, and adorned with so many great cities, towns, temples, and treasures, I thought good to make it known, that the Emperor now reigning, is de. scended from the magnificent princes of Peru. For, when Francisco Pizarro, Diego Almagro, and others, conquered the said empire of Peru, and had put to death Atabalipa, son of Guaynacapa, one of the younger sons of Guaynacapa fled out of Peru, and took with him many soldiers of the empire, called Oreiones, and, with them and many others which followed him, he vanquished all that tract and valley of America which is situate between the great river Amazon and the Oronoke." $ In this description it' is proper to distinguish the fact, stated by Raleigh, of the invasion of Guyana by one of the Incas, from the conclusion he draws from it. The former was a reasonable inference from the narrative of the Indian chief. If an invasion of Guyana was made by the Oreiones, or nobles of Peru, it is probable that it was conducted by one of the Incas. Such a large emigration could not have been produced but through the influence and under the guidance of some eminent chief; and who would more probably lead them than one of the Incas, who were immediately over them ? In regard to the improvement which he supposes to have been, in consequence, produced in Guyana, he has given scope to his * Cayley. vol. 1, p. 179. t Cayley, vol. 1. pp. 239-240. t Cayley, vol. 1. P 264. APPARELLED INDIANS. 75 imagination, filled with ideas of the rich cities of Peru, and pictured a state of things as necessarily arising from such emigration, of which he had no evidence ; and whether it existed or not, could only be known when the deep forests of Guyana had been penetrated and explored : — but in forming such a picture, some allowance should be made to him, as his mind had already been prepared to fall into this delusion, by the impres- sions he received from Berreo, and the relation of Juan Martinez. But, however conjectural his idea was, it is entirely distinct from the position he assumes, and on which he founds it — the emigration of one of the Incas into Guyana. , It is remarkable, that intimations are given by several writers, of appa- relled Indians in the interior of Guyana. Thus, Key mis says, he was informed, on the Oronoke, " that a nation of chthed people, called Cassana- ri, dwell not far from where the river takes its name ; and that far within they border upon a sea of salt water, called Parima :" which is the region I am examining — the site of Manoa. Thomas Masham, who wrote the account of the third expedition made by Raleigh, remarks : " The people in all the lower parts of the country go naked, both men and women, &c. In the upper country they are apparelled ; being, as it were, of a more civil disposition (more civilized,) having great store of gold ; as we are certainly informed by the lower Indians, of whom we had some gold, which they bought and brought in the high country of Wiana :" (Guy- ana.) A much later writer has given a confirmation of these statements. Hartsinck, the Dutch historian of Guyana, remarks : " The borders of lake Parima are inhabited by numerous nations ; some are clothed, and do not suffer strangers to come thither. In the year 1755, upon the re- lations of a certain Indian chief, the Spaniards made three successive expeditions into the interior, to reach lake Parima ; but were so much opposed by the Indians, and in the last especially, that they never desired to undertake it again, though they brought with them four prisoners of the clothed nation, which Mr. Persick, of the council of justice of Essequibo, and other traders, saw." To this I add, that M. De G , protector of the Indians on the Essequibo, gave me, in 1820, the following statement: " Lake Parima is inhabited by several nations, and among them is a very remarkable one, who wear clothes, and shun all intercourse with other Indians. This he heard from several Indians." Of the Guaypanabis, on the upper Oronoke, Humboldt remarks, "they are more industrious, he might almost say more civilized, than the other Indians of that region ; and that the missionaries relate, that in the time of their sway they were pretty generally clothed, and had considerable villages. Respecting the plates of gold, which the Oreiones and Epuremei are said to have possessed, no remarks are necessary, after what has been observed on the same subject, in the examination made of the relation of Martinez. 76 EL DORADO. And before Sir Walter Raleigh is heavily censured, for his belief of what Hume calls his " chimerical flight of the Incas,'"' it will be proper to attend to the remarks of some writers on this subject. It appears, from Humboldt, to be a fact, that Manco Inca, brother of Atahualpa, who was slain by the Spaniards, after this event fled ; which, says he, gave rise to the idea of the empire of the Incas in Dorado. (It is to him that Raleigh refers, When he says : For when Pizarro, and others, &c, had conquered Peru, and put to death Atabalipa, son to Guaynacapa, one of the younger sons of Guaynacapa fled out of Peru, &c.) " Manco Inca," says Humboldt, " acknowledged as the legitimate successor of Atahualpa, made war, without success, against the Spaniards. He retired, at length, into the mountains and thick forests of Vilcabamba. Of his two sons, the eldest, Sayri-Tupac, surrendered himself to the Spaniards, upon the invitation of the Viceroy of Peru. He was received with great pomp at Lima ; was baptized there, and died peaceably in the fine valley of Yucay. The youngest son, Tupac Amaru, was carried off by stratagem from the forests of Vilcabamba, and beheaded on pre- text of a conspiracy formed against the Spanish usurpers. At the same period, thirty-five distant relations of the Inca Atahualpa, were seized and conveyed to Lima, in order to remain under the inspection of the Audiencia, (Garcillasso, vol. 2, pp. 194, 480, 501.) It is interesting to inquire, whether any other princes of the family of Manco Capac have remained in the forests of Vilcabamba, and if there still exist any de- scendants of the Incas of Peru. This supposition gave rise, in 1741, to the famous rebellion of the Chuncoas, and to that of the Awayos and Campoes, led on by their chief, Juan Santos, called the false Atahualpa." Southey, who in his history of Brazil treats the whole account of El Dorado as entirely imaginary, originating from reports spread in New Grenada of the wealth of Peru ; and there, of that of New Grenada, observes, that in support of the reality of Dorado, " it was said, in the Spanish provinces, that a younger brother of Atabalipa had fled after the destruction of the Incas, and founded in the region, where the golden city was supposed to be, a greater empire than that of which his family had been deprived." A more recent writer than either of the above, Compagnoni, an Italian author, has taken a view of this subject, which places the narrative of Raleigh in a still more favorable light. The work I have not seen j and my knowledge of it is derived from the North American Review, 1828, No. lx., which observes upon it :* " In these volumes there is an investigation of the far-famed El Dorado. The circumstances collected by Compagnoni, certainly tend to show, that the existence of some offset of the Incas, within the interior of the continent, is neither so impossible nor so improbable as generally supposed. The traditions among the Pe- ruvians have been constant, that a body of their countrymen, led by some ' * The title of the work is " Storia del America, Opera Originale Italiana in Continvazione del Compendio della Universelle, del Signer Compte de Segur, by Compagnoni." THE TURPINAMBAS. 77 of the surviving Incas, fled beyond the mountains, into regions not yet explored." On this subject there is a most extraordinary passage in the Journal of the Mariwin Inquirer, the associate of Robert Harcourt, who made a voyage to the Oyapoke, in 1608 — to whom I have several times referred. I have observed that he states, the ancient Indian, from the head of the Surinam, called lake Parima, Parrooioan Parrocare Monoan, signifying White Sea of the Manoas. And that " the chief Captain, or as he called him, Acariwanora, there, was Pepodallapa." I do not hesitate to acknow- ledge the surprise with which I met with this name — for, can there be a doubt that it was meant for Atabalipa, the name of the Inca slain by the Spaniards, and which may have been taken by the representative of the family, as was the case in Peru in later times ? The chief of Manoas appears to have possessed great power and influ- ence ; for the Inquirer relates, once in every third year, all the Caciques, lords, and captains — some seven days' journey — do come to a great drink- ing, &c. ; which might be considered a regular homage, or acknowledg- ment made to him. A circumstance that gives weight to this relation of the Mariwin Inquirer, is, that he appears unconscious of the meaning of the name of the chief; and is therefore free from the suspicion of having introduced it to favor Raleigh ; if, indeed, other circumstances did not protect him from it. These remarks are perhaps all that, consistent with the plan of this volume, founded entirely upon well-authenticated facts, it is proper to make ; and I might leave to the reader, to form his own opinion on the subject. Should the reality of the flight of one of the branches of the Incas, into Guyana, ever be fully established, an ample field for reflec- tions will then be presented, far exceeding in interest any other passage in the history of the aboriginal nations of America. I cannot, however, but observe, that this event does not appear to be wholly beyond the bounds of probability. Other instances have occurred in South America, of nations whom the consternation excited by the invasion and conquest of their territories by Europeans, and the hatred the injuries they received from them occasioned, induced to abandon, entirely, their territories, and remove to some distant region. When D'Acugna made his voyage down tha Amazon, he found the Tupinambas, a numerous, warlike and inge- nious people, inhabiting an island sixty leagues in length, a few leagues bflow the Rio Negro. But this had not been long their abode. They were one of the most important nations of Brazil, extending over a vast country, in which they had eighty-two villages ; but when the Portuguese established themselves at Rio Janiero, rather than submit to their yoke, they withdrew in a body, leaving not a single individual in any of their villages. They made a long journey on the east side of the Andes, crossing all the rivers that descend from it into the Amazon ; and at length came to the island which they then inhabited. 73 ELDORADO. Another instance, is that of the Omaguas, on the river Amazon, already mentioned — a numerous and warlike nation, and also more improved and civilized than any other on that river. They came, according to D'Acugna, from the province of Quixos, near Quito ; but how long they had been on the Amazon, is not stated. Not all, however, removed ; and those that remained when the Spaniards arrived, made peace with them ; but wea- ried, at last, with the ill-treatment they received, they descended one of the streams which flow into the Amazon, and joined themselves to their kinsmen on that river. When D'Acugna wrote, there were some of this nation at the head of the Potamayo, which rises near Pasto, and who also were the last on the Yotan, a southern tributary of the Amazon, which has its source near Cusco. From a circumstance related by Southey, in his ' History of Brazil,' the dread and dislike of the Spaniards which the retreating Omaguas possessed, and which they infused into their country- men, must have been very great. " It is surprising," observes the histo- rian, " that Orellana, in his voyage down the Amazon, makes no men- tion of this nation ; but the Omaguas of Quito explain the circumstance : they relate, that they were there when he came ; but as he approached, they retired, and part went up the Rio Negro j" although Orellana ap- peared with only a single vessel, and a small party, and came with no intention to molest the natives. If such were the dread and aversion which the European conquerors inspired in these nations, how intense must have been their operation in Ihe minds of the family of the Incas, who ruled over, not a single tribe, but an extensive, and flourishing empire, filled with rich cities, con- taining edifices splendidly decorated with gold and silver; and a people whom they found wild and savage, without cultivation, arts, or comforta- ble abodes, and by their wise and benignant sway, had elevated to their present happy and prosperous condition ; by whom they were in con- sequence not only beloved, but, connected with the mysterious manner in which the founder of their race appeared among them, reverenced as of celestial origin — Children of the Sun, the deity whom they worshipped. It was a sovereign race, possessed of such extensive power and author- ity, and so adored and revered by its subjects, that saw its empire over- turned ; its seats of magnificence plundered ; its splendid temples, after being stripped of their costly decorations, demolished ; and after many grievances and humiliations suffered by them, their reigning prince, Ata- balipa, put to death. How great was their mortification at these disastrous, and overwhelm- ing events, to themselves and nation, it is difficult for us to conceive. What the effect of them was upon the Peruvians, historians furnish some evidence. Such was the distress among them, says Herrera, when the tidings of his death was spread abroad, that many men and women killed themselves, to attend him in the other world. And the grief and regret they experienced, has been transmitted to their descend- ants to the latest times. The Indians of Peru, says a historian, in 1748 ; M_ANCO INC A. 79 have not forgotten the love they bore their native Kings. In most of the great towns in the interior, they revive the memory of the death of Ata- balipa, annually, on a certain day, by a sort of tragedy ; in which they clothe themselves in their ancient manner, and wear images of the sun and moon, with other symbols of their idolatry. At these festivals they indulge in excessive drinking, and use in every mode their liberty. En- deavors have been made by the Spaniards to suppress these solemnities, and they have of late years debarred them the use of the stage in which they represented the death of the Inca.* An English traveller, much later (in 1825) remarks : " That some of the Peruvians living at a dis- tance from the capital, and who are more immediately descended from the last Inca, still continue to mourn for him, is a fact well known ; and the mournful songs, or yarrabies, which lament that unhappy transaction, are chanted at this hour."f Under the feelings which the remaining branches of the royal family would possess, after the disastrous events which befell them, it would not be surprising if they resolved to remove to some other region, not only from apprehension of meeting the fate of Atabalipa, but from the great aversion produced in their minds to their conquerors. But on this subject we are not left to supposition. It ap- pears from the extract I have made from Humboldt, that it is admitted that they fled across the Andes ; and in a Spanish work I have met with, I have found this fact not only confirmed, but the region mentioned, to which they removed. " All the Indians," says the author, " who are on the river Aprumack, one of the streams which form the Ucayal, one of the largest tributaries of the Amazon, and rises in the mountains around Cuscn, are descendants of the army of forty thousand who fed with Manco Inca, hrotlier of Atahualpa."% Although there is no historical account of the progress of the family of the Incas, or of any of them, down the Ucayal, this event does not appear wholly improbable. It can scarcely be believed, that they would be content to remain perpetually in a degraded state, in a corner of their former empire ; nor that the regrets and complaints of their subjects, would not be too painful for them to support. We may reasonably sup- pose, that after their spirits had, in a degree, recovered from the effects of their humiliating overthrow, some one among them would embrace the project of endeavoring to restore their empire, in some region unknown to their conquerors ; and he would naturally seek it by descending this river, which flows into the Amazon ; and would in such case, with a cer- tainty, be attended by a number of Peruvians ; and particularly the Oreiones, or nobles, who were immediately about the royal family. A knowledge of the Amazon and the regions upon it, was possessed by the Incas, who, according to Humboldt, had extended their arts and arms as far as the Yupura ; which is beyond the province of the Omaguas. But the inhabitants in the interior of Peru, could not fail, without this circum- * Relation of the earthquake at Lima. t Travels of G. Calocleugh to Sontli America, X £1 Maiajjcn y Amazene, Historia, Deles, Descubrimentos— Madrid, 1684. 80 ELDORADO. stance, to obtain this information ; as the various streams that flow into the Amazon, on the north and south side, descend from the Cordillera of the Andes, and particularly those on the Ucayal, which, rising near Cusco, were probably greatly traversed. On Orellana's passage down the Napo, which enters it on the north side, nearly opposite to the Ucayal, he was informed by a Cacique in the province of Coca — several hundred leagues from its mouth — of a wealthy lord, on another river, who abounded in gold, and who could be no other, than the chief of the Omaguas, who were three hundred and seventy leagues below the Napo. This large settle- ment of a partially civilized people, wearing apparel, having many gold articles among them — and of Peruvian origin, on the Amazon, would greatly encourage an enterprising leader in the family of the Incas to de- scend the Ucayal into this great stream, and follow it, to seek on its bor- ders, or their vicinity, a region in which to establish himself and plant the germ of another empire. The Rio Negro — which flows into this river one hundred and twenty leagues only below this province, and rises also from the Andes — by the intelligence the Incas had, while their reign lasted, of the remote provinces of their empire and the countries adjacent, was, un- questionably, also known to them. Its great importance, and the many nations upon it, were sufficient, also, to spread extensively the knowledge of it : and there appears to have been a communication through the in- habitants upon it, from its mouth to its source : " We were assured," says D'Acugna, on the Amazon, " that this river was inhabited by a great number of people, of different nations ; the last of which wear clothes and hats like ours — which sufficiently convinced us, that these people were not far from the cities of Peru."* There was a particular circum- stance, moreover, belonging to it, calculated to give it general notoriety ; the communication existing between it and the Oronoke, by the Cassi- quiri. It was, probably, formerly a great channel of emigration from the west, down the stream, or southwardly, from the Amazon to the bor- ders of the Oronoke. Several of the branches of the Saliva nation — who are mild and tranquil tribes, the most numerous nation on that river, after 1 the Charibees — appear to have come from the Peruvian territories. " The most ancient abode of this nation," says Humboldt, " appears to have been on the western bank of the Oronoke, between the Rio Vichada and the Guaviari; also, between the Meta and the Rio Paute."f That of the Mapoyes, one of the branches of this nation, was on the banks of the Assiveru, or Cuchivero. He often heard them mentioned above the mouth of the Meta4 The Maypures, another branch of this nation, according toBalbi,(Ethno-graphical Atlas,) speak a language incontestably similar to that of the Moxos of Peru. The Atorays, who now inhabit the region of Pari- ma, and who, I have observed, are probably the same with the Atures of the Oronoke, have also some words in their language like those of the Moxos, and also the Quichua, which is the general language of Peru. The Ar- rowacks, who are spread along the coast of Guyana, are, I believe, allied * D'Acugna, ch. Isv. t Humboldt's Pers. Nar., ch. xix. + Humboldt's Pers. Nar., ch ix. MAN CO INC A. si to the Saliva nation ; as their language has some words resembling the Atoray and Maypure, and likewise the Moxos and Quichua. Tnese affinities are shown in the table, Appendix No. VI. The period when the invasion of Guyana was made by the Oreiones and Epuremei, as related by the Charibee chief, corresponds with the time when the Spaniards were making their conquests in Peru, and over- turned the empire of the Incas ; as his relation was made to Raleigh in 1595, when he was in a very advanced age ; and he states that the inva- sion of the Oreiones occurred when he was a young man. And the hatred of the Spaniards, excited in the minds of the Peruvians by the conquest of their empire and the execution of Atabalipa, must have been greatly increased by the persecution the whole of the royal family receiv- ed ; — as Humboldt, it has been seen, states, that after it, thirty-five of his distant relations were seized and conveyed to Lima. Southey, it has been observed, states, that a circumstance which encour- aged the idea of El Dorado in the minds of the Spaniards, Avas an opinion among them that one of the Incas had fled to some other country, where he had again built a city, and undertook to revive their empire ; and Com- pagnoni remarks, that it was a general impression among them that he had fled to some region wholly unknown to them. This unknown region could refer to no part of Peru, or the northern or western part of New-Grenada, but only to the southeastern portion of the latter province, in which EI Dorado was first sought, or to Guyana ; both which regions were unex- plored. The country could not be any part of Brazil, for there was no passage into it by any of the southern tributaries of the Amazon west of the Rio Negro, all which descend from the Andes of Peru ; and whatever branch of the family of the Incas was on this expedition in search of a retreat, his attention would not fail to be arrested by this river, from the information he received from the tribes on the Amazon, in its vicinity, though he had not directed his course to it. He would also be informed of its principal branch— the Rio Branco — and of the region of Parima and the White Sea, to which it led, which, as I have remarked, had probably acquired as great celebrity on the Amazon as in other directions ; and, in determining to ascend the Rio Negro, he might prefer the deep forests of the interior of Guyana for an asylum, as a region where he would be less liable to be invaded by the conquerors of his empire, to the borders of the Oronoke, which were easily accessible from the sea, or by its western tribu- taries that flow from the mountains of New-Grenada, where the Spaniards were then, as in Peru, pursuing their conquests. In addition to the information which he might have acquired among the inhabitants generally of the Amazon, regarding the region of Parima, the Omaguas, if they were on this river at that time, would have furnished him with a particular account of it ; and if they had been previously dis- persed, and part retired up the Rio Negro, this last circumstance would strongly incline him to pursue the same route. And as he advanced far- ther, the Manoas of the Yurubesh, still nearer the Rio Negro— part of 82 EL ELDORA&a. bly gave rise to the name of Manoa, as of a city there, and kept up a constant intercourse between their two establishments — would determine all his doubts as to the place of his refuge, and might be willing to conduct him thither. It is possible, indeed, that this expedition, if it took place, led to the invasion and conquest of the region of Parima by the Manaos. If the relation of the Mariwin Inquirer is to be credited, ** that the chief captain, or Aqueriwanora, of Manoa, was Pepodallapa, and if this name was meant for Atabalipa, there would seem to be a connection be- tween the Manaos and a branch of the family of the Incas. Perhaps the royal exile may have been willing to accept the aid of this powerful and warlike nation, to conquer from the Guyanians the region from which the Branco flows, and establish himself in the bosom of its mountains, where he would believe himself in perfect security from the invaders of his em- pire ; protected not only by its remoteness and obscurity, but by their supe- rior bravery ; while they, from respect to an ancient and venerated race, whose misfortunes could not but have been heard of by all the tribes of the Amazon — and as they astonished, excited universal sympathy and regret — would readily become their conductors to it; and the conquest achieved* feel proud to acknowledge themselves his subjects. We may indulge the hope, that the veil of obscurity which is over this region will ere long be removed ; — that some scientific and enterprising traveller will undertake to pass over the terra incognita which lies be- tween the Essequibo and the Oronoke, and disclose the history of the tribes now inhabiting it : in particular, who are the clothed Indians who avoid all intercourse with others, reported to be there in 1755, who are probably still there ; as three nations described a century since by a trav- eller as residing in this region, are yet in the same place, and as the account of this clothed nation was confirmed to me in 1820 ; — a journey which would De also greatly beneficial to geography, and by the investigation of the various productions of this region, not only gratify the curiosity of the naturalist, but 3 without doubt, bring to light many which would be useful to the world. CHAPTER V. SIR WALTER RALEIGH'S REPORTS OF THE MINERAL RICHES OF GUYANA, EXAMINED. OPINIONS OF HUMBOLDT ON THE SUBJECT. DIFFICULTIES IK WHICH RALEIGH BECAME INVOLVED AT HOME, WHICH SUSPENDED HIS 1 EXPEDITIONS TO GUYANA. HIS TRIAL AND LONG IMPRISONBIENT. i i Besides the account which Sir Walter Raleigh gave of the city of Manoa, " and the civil and apparelled people" who invaded Guyana, and established themselves in it, he incurred great censure and ridicule from his enemies at that time, and has received the explicit condemnation of' some historians from representations made by him of the existence of gold in it, and in general, its rich mineral treasures. But that specimens of gold were found by him he afforded the most convincing proofs, by bring- ing some of the ore with him to England, which he presented to the lord high Admiral Howard, and Sir Robert Cecil, of the privy council, asi he states in the preface of' the Narrative of his voyage, which he addressed to them. His enemies were not, however, silenced by this evidence. They endeavored to negative it, and prove him a gross deceiver. It was reported that the ore had been ascertained not to be gold ; others asked, if the metal had been found, why he did not bring home a greater quan- tity of it ; others again, said it was not obtained in Guyana, but brought by him from Africa. To all these charges, he fully replies in his preface. " It is true," he observes, " that on being informed by an Indian, that not far from the port where he anchored, there were found certain mineral stones which they considered gold, he sent a party of his men there with orders for each ta bring him a specimen, but which when brought he found was marcasite, and of no value ; but some of them, trusting more to their ideas than his opinion, kept them, and showed them in several places, ta Guyana, in- deed," he says, "all the rocks, mountains, all stones in the plain, in woods, and by the rivers, are thorough shining, and marvellous rich, and are the true signs of minerals, but are no other than what the Spaniards call el raadre del oro, (the mother of gold,) of several sorts of which his com- pany brought also to England. But he was assured that gold was to be found either in grains separate from the stone, as it is in most of the rivers of Guyana, or else in a kind of stone which they called white spar. . . Near one of the' rivers he found a great, ledge or bank of this white spar, which he endeavored to open, as there appeared on the surface some small grains of gold. But not having any means for the purpose, seek- ing around the sides, he found a cleft in the rock, from which, with dag- 6* 84 ELDORADO. gers and the head of an axe, he obtained small quantities of the metal, which he brought to England. Of this several trials were made in Lon- don, and it was found to contain gold." (He mentions the names of the persons by whom the assays were made ; some of them belonging to the mint ; and thus, publicly appeals to their testimony.) " Trials were also made by the same persons, at that time, on the dust of this mine, which held eight pounds six ounces weight of gold in the hundred. But, says lie, because his men brought other specimens," (which were, perhaps, those referred to,) " all the others have been slandered, and his whole enterprise defamed." In reply to the question, why he did not bring home a greater quantity ? observing, first, that he was not bound to satisfy any one of the quan- tity, but such as advertised, he says, " that had all the mountains been of massy gold, it was not possible for him to have remained to work it, having neither men nor instruments for the purpose. Further, that the country was covered with such thick woods, reaching to the very edge of the rivers, that in ascending them, it was very difficult to find a place to land ; and if this should bo done, to penetrate into the country ; not only from this cause, but the heavy floods of water which fall, inundating it so, that they would be obliged to wade several feet deep. In addition he was four hundred miles from his ships, which he left weakly manned, and in an open road, and had been absent a month, although he prom- ised to return in fifteen days." To the allegation, that the gold was brought from Africa, he thus feel- ingly replies : " Others have devised, that the same ore was had from Barbary, and that we carried it with us to Guyana. Surely the singu- larity of that device, I do not well comprehend. For mine own part, I am not so much in love with these long voyages, as to devise thereby, to cozen myself, to lie hard, to fare worse, to be subject to perils, to diseases, to all seasons ; to be parched and withered, and to sustain all the care and labor of such an enterprise, except the same had more comfort than the fetching of marcasite in Guyana, or buying of gold ore in Barbary. But I hope the better sort will judge me by themselves, and that the way of deceit, is not the way of honor or good opinion."* The above defence bears the marks of great sincerity, and in forming an opinion of Sir Walter Raleigh, from his Narrative, it is proper to dis- tinguish the facts he states, from the views he formed upon them. His veracity in the recital of the former, there is no reason to question ; while a further knowledge of the country has shown, that his ardent and enthu- siastic spirit, and lively imagination, led him to form extravagant ideas of the mineral riches of Guyana. But that he sincerely believed in the account lie gave of the mineral treasures in this region, he furnished the strongest further evidence, by the expeditions he made to it the two succeeding years after, for the same object, though not able to accompany them himself. v * Cayley, vol. 1. pp. 163-1CT. DDDDLEY'S VOYAGE. 85 Of the existence of gold in this part of South America, various voy- agers and travellers also speak. The gold ornaments seen by Columbus upon the Indians on the coast of Paria, have been mentioned ; and his biographer, Ferdinand Columbus, says he saw an Indian with a piece of gold, as large as an apple. Oviedo, in his account of the voyage of Ves- pucci, states, that as they sailed along the coast of Terra-Firma, they •observed, that all along from Margaritta to Cape de la Vela, the Indians bartered for gold and pearls. But a testimony more applicable to the subject, is that of Sir Robert Duddley, who made a voyage to Trinidad . in 1595 — the same year with Raleigh's expedition — whom I have before referred to, as a voyager deserving the utmost credit. " I learned of the savages, that the names of the kingdoms on the main over against us, were in order these : The kingdom of Morocca, Seea- wano, Waliane, Charibes, Yguire ; and right against the northern part of Trinidad, the main was called the highland of Paria. In Seeawano we heard of a mine of gold to be in a town called Wackerew. The king- dom of Iguire, (Igyuire,) I found to be full of metal, called by the Indians nearo, which is rather copper, or very base gold. But lastly, to come to Waliane, it is the first kingdom of the empire of Guyana. The great wealth which I understood to be therein, and the assurance that I had by an Indian, mine interpreter, of a golden mine in a town of this kingdom, called Orocoa, in the river of the Oronoke, was much to be esteemed, not in words alone ; but offered, upon pain of life, to be a guide himself to any place that he spoke of. I sent fourteen men in my boat with most of the discreetest men of my company. They found the main full of fresh rivers, the one entering into another. They entered into a small river, called Cabotas, the people named Veriotans — a courteous people. The next river they passed was named Mana, where the king offered to bring a canoe full of the golden ore ; and to this purpose sent a canoe which returned and brought me this answer, that Armago, captain of the mine, refused them ; but if they would come thither, he himself would make them answer. Upon this my boat went at his appointed place ; he met them with some 100 men in canoes, and told them, that by force they should have nothing but blows; yet, if they would bring him hatchets, knives, and jewsharps, he bid them assure me he had a mine of gold, and could refine it, and would trade with me ; in token whereof, he sent me three or four crescents or half-moons of gold, weighing a noble a-piece, or more."* But this subject has been fully elucidated by the recent investigations of Humboldt in Venezuela, who has shown that reports have always pre- vailed there of the existence of gold in various sections of it — that speci- mens of native gold have frequently been found there — that several attempts at mining have been made by the Spaniards, although it remains doubtful whether the ore exists there in sufficient quantity to justify ope- rations to obtain it. " Their attention," he observes, " was first directed * Hackluyt's Voyages. 86 ELDORADO. to the western mountains of Venezuela ; and there they, at an early period, wrought the gold mine of Barquisemento. But these works, like many other mines successively opened, were soon abandoned. Here, as in all the mountains of Venezuela, the ore has been found to be very variable in its produce. The lodes are very often divided, or cease ; and the metals appear only in kidney-ores, and present the most delusive ap- pearances." Next to these and the works of Buria, those in the valley of Caraccas are the most remarkable. " An Indian of the Guykeries, having seen some bits of gold in the hands of the natives, succeeded in discovering, in 1560, the mines of Los Teques, to the southwest of Carac- cas, in the group of the mountains of Cocuimo, which separate the valleys of Caraccas and Aragua. It is thought that, in the first of these valleys, near Baruta, the natives had made some excavations in veins of aurife- rous quartz ; and that, when the Spaniards first settled there and founded the town of Caraccas, they filled the shafts which had been dug with water. It is now impossible to verify the fact. The mines of Los Te- ques could not be peaceably wrought till the defeat of the Cacique Guay- capuro, who so long contested with the Spaniards the possession of the province of Venezuela. In the mountains east of the valley of Caraccas, mining experiments have also been made. In these mountains the gneiss passes into a talckous state, and contains, among other minerals, lodes of auriferous quartz. The labors there, which were anciently begun, have often been abandoned and renewed." The mines of Caraccas remained forgotten for more than a h undred years. But toward the end of the last century, they were resumed by an Intendant of Venezuela, Don Jose Avalo. Some Mexican miners were procured : " The choice," says Humboldt, " was not fortunate. They could not distinguish a single rock ; everything appeared to them gold and silver. Their operations were directed toward the ravine of Tipe ; and the ancient mines of Baruta, "to the south of Caraccas, where the Indians gathered, even in my time, a little stream of gold. The zeal of the administration soon diminished ;• and after having incurred many useless expenses, the enterprise of the mines of Caraccas was totally abandoned. A small quantity of auriferous pyrites, sulphuretted silver, and a little native gold, had been found ; but they were feeble indications, — and in a country where labor is extremely dear, there was no induce- ment to pursue works so little productive."* On the subject, generally, of the existence of gold in this region, he gives the following opinion : " The rock of gneiss, passing into a granite of new formation, sometimes mica-slate, belongs, in Germany, to the most metalliferous rocks; but. in the new Continent, the granite has not been hitherto remarked as very rich in ores worth working. In several spots of the valley of Caraccas, the gneiss contains a small quantity of gold, disseminated in small veins of quartz, sulphuretted silver, azure, * Humboldt's Pers. Nar., ch. xiii. MINING IN CARACC AS. 87 copper ore, and galena ; but it remains doubtful, whether these different metalliferous substances are not too poor to attempt working them."* The researches thus made by Humboldt, in Venezuela, do not, indeed, comprise the region visited by Raleigh, and to which his accounts relate, although in its immediate vicinity ; but if such is the character of the mountainous chain along the coast, including its branches north and west of the Oronoke, it may be reasonably supposed, that .Jhose which extend over that river into Guyana are of the same character ; especially, as it has been shown that the second chain of mountains of South America, or the Cordillera of Parima, presents similar appearances. On his return from his expedition up the Oronoke, he descended this river to Angustura, the capital of Spanish Guyana. The mineralogical examination he made there, was not as extensive as at Caraccas. The fatigue of a long journey through a wilderness region, probably, in some measure, prevented him. The following are all the remarks he makes on the subject : " It were to be wished, that here, as in the fine and fertile province of Venezuela, the inhabitants, faithful to the labor of the fields, would not addict them- selves too hastily to the search for mines. The example of Germany and Mexico prove, no doubt, that the working of metals is not at all in- compatible with a flourishing state of agriculture ; but, according to popular traditions, the banks of the Carony lead to the lake Dorado, and the palace of the gilded King ; and this lake, and this palace, being a local fable, it might be dangerous to awaken remembrances that begin gradu- ally to be effaced. I was assured, that in 1760, the independent Chari- bees went to Cerro de Pajarcaima, (a mountain to the south of Veia Guyana.) The gold-dust collected by their labor, was put into calebashes and sold to the Dutch at Essequibo. Still more recently, some Mexican miners, who abused the credulity of Don Jose de Avalo, the Intendant of Caraccas, undertook a very considerable work in the centre of the missions of the Rio Carony. They declared that the whole rock was auriferous ; stamping-mills, Irocards, and smelting furnaces were constructed. After having expended very large sums, it was discovered that the pyrites con- tained no trace whatever of gold. These essays, though fruitless, served to renew the ancient idea, " that every shining rock in Guyana, is una madre del oro." (These are the words of Raleigh.) f These remarks, though brief, are important. 1. Humboldt states, that popular traditions continued, to the time of his visit, to prevail in Spanish Guyana, that at the head of the Caroni was the lake Dorado, and the palace of the " gilded King," which is the very region where Raleigh places his lake Cassipa, and the city of Manoa — and the existence of which is confirmed by the map of De Pons, on which, made as late as 1805, he marks on his lake Parima, in a very distinct manner, the site of this city, or El Dorado. 2. The attempt made by the Mexican miners to search for gold in the centre of the missions of Caroni, shows that an * Humboldt's Pets. N«r., ch. xiii. ! t Humboldt's Pert. Nar., ch. ixiv S3 ELDORADO. opinion then existed that gold was to be found in the neighborhood of thai river, as Raleigh related. In his defence, it is not necessary to prove that it actually exists there in abundance. It is sufficient for the purpose to show, that there are appearances of it there, which have led others, like himself, into that belief. 3. The failure of the Mexican miners to find it in the particular spot where they sought for it, detracts nothing from his relation, as Humboldt states, that gold-dust has been obtained by the Charibees in that region, which they sold to the Dutch ; a fact which gives the highest degree of probability to the statement of Raleigh, that the ore he took with him to England from the Oronoke, was obtained by him there ; and not, as his enemies alleged, brought from other parts — particularly, from the additional remark of Humboldt, that the Charibees of the Essequibo, Caroni, and Cayuni, have been accustomed to wash the earth for gold from the remotest times ; — for it was with this nation with whom Raleigh chiefly had intercourse, and from whom he obtained his information of Guyana. In regard to the Charibees of the Essequibo, this remark of Humboldt corresponds with a fact I have mentioned, that in the middle of the last century, gold-dust was brought down that river and given to the Director-General of the Dutch colony upon it, who sent it to Holland. An examination has thus been made of the relations in the Narrative of Raleigh, which I proposed to consider ; and it has been shown that, as to the principal facts which he states, he is fully supported by contempo- rary and later travellers, and some local testimony ; but on which he suffered his imagination to form extravagant and erroneous ideas : in particular, that there is a large body of water in the interior of Guyana, which remains, probably, for more than half the year, called by the Charibees the White Sea ; which may, or may not be termed a lake — that it is salt, as stated by him, and confirmed by his associates, Keymis and Berrie, and that the Caroli, (or Caroni,) probably rises out of it ; that there is at present about it a great collection of remnants of Indian nations, rendering it probable, that the population formerly there was considerable, and that they had gold ornaments in abundance ; and the channel by which they might have obtained them, has been pointed out : that this settlement probably bore the name Raleigh gives it — Manoa, or Manao, from the Mahanaos, or Manaos, who still dwell upon it ; that the facts stated by Martinez, who first applied the appellation " El Dorado" to this place, do not necessarily imply a rich and magnificent city — but which idea, Raleigh too readily imbibed from the oft-repeated rumors among the Spaniards of such a city, and their repeated enterprises to discover it. In regard to the invasion of Guyana by one of the Incas of Peru, by whom he supposes Manoa, or the imperial city, was built — an idea which he founds upon the relations of the Charibee chief on the Oro- noke — it has also been shown, that there was, probably, in early times, a great influx of nations into Guyana, by the Rio Branco. from the Amazon : and, that it is not wholly improbable, a branch of the family of the Incas HUME'S CHARGES. 89 may, on the invasion of Peru by the Spaniards, have fled from it, and retired into the interior of this country by the same route ; — especially from the remarkable fact stated by the Mariwin Inquirer, as related to him by a Charibee chief, that the chief of Manoa was called Pepo- dallapa, a name which, we can hardly doubt, was meant for Atabalipa. It has likewise been shown, in regard to the mineral treasures which Raleigh related to be in Guyana, that gold has actually been found in small parcels in various parts of it; and that in Venezuela, north of the Oronoke, and on the Essequibo, indications of the existence of this ore have led to several enterprises to discover it ; although the results of them, and the examination made by Humboldt, leave the question, whether there is a sufficient quantity of it in Venezuela or Guyana, to justify mining operations, undetermined. But, under the influence of political prejudices and an ignorance of the subject, some writers commenting on his relations respecting that country, have inveighed against him in a style of the severest censure, and endea- vored to throw the brilliant lustre of his great name into the darkest shade ; foremost among whom is Hume, who, in his history of England, has poured upon him the following unmeasured invective : " Raleigh's account of his first voyage to Guyana, proves him to have been a man capable of the most extravagant credulity, or the most impu- dent imposture. So ridiculous are the stories which he tells of the Incas' chimerical empire in the midst of Guyana, the rich city of El Dorado, or Manoa, two days' journey in length, abounding in gold and silver ; the old Peruvian prophecies in favor of the English, who, he says, were ex- pressly named as the deliverers of that country, long before any Euro- pean ever touched there ; the 'Amazons, or republic of women ; and in general, the vast and incredible riches of that country, where nobody, as yet, found any treasures. His whole Narrative is a proof that he was extremely defective, either in solid understanding, morals, or both." In regard to the heaviest charge against Sir Walter Raleigh, in this sweeping denunciation, " the most impudent imposture," the candid rea- der will not, I believe, hesitate, from the facts I have presented, completely to exonerate him ; and to admit that, however he may have suffered his mind to form visions of that country, under the influence of an ardent imagination, which were not substantially founded, that he was sincere and honest in what he stated ; and if anything further were necessary to prove this, it is, that after his first expedition to Guyana, his account of which was the ground of this invective, he made, the next and second year after, two other enterprises to it for the same object ; the last of which was prepared entirely at his own expense. Can it be reasonably supposed he would have invested his money in an undertaking, when he knew it would be thrown away, merely to amuse the public with an attractive novelty, or to gratify his vanity by appearing as the patronizer of a splen- did enterprise ? Or was he led, from want of occupation, into a Quixotic scheme, to employ the otherwise dormant energies of his mind ? But 90 ELDORADO. Sir Walter Raleigh did not require to make distant voyages to foreign countries, to provide him with occupation, still less to engage in enterprises of a chimerical character, or at least of uncertain result for that purpose. He had resources within himself, which never failed. Had not this pro- ject, presenting itself to his mind in the most glowing colors, captivated and engrossed it, he would have found in the pursuits of literature suffi- cient to engage his attention, as in a future season of adversity he fully showed ; and had fame been his object, he would have had in this occupa- tion sufficient to gratify his utmost ambition. An insinuation has been made that, in forming this enterprise, he was influenced by interested motives ; from a wish to regain the favor of Queen Elizabeth, by flattering her with the prospect of a splendid acquisition. But this idea cannot stand the test of examination. It is admitted, that if he had merely drawn out a highly colored representation of the wealth of Guyana, with the plan of an enterprise to conquer it, without having taken any steps to advance it himself, or embarked any property in the undertaking ; such a suggestion, under the circumstances in which he was in regard to the court, might be made with some plausibility. But since he prepared not less than three expeditions for the purpose in as many successive years, — two of which were partly at his own expense, and the last entirely so, and one of which he accompanied himself — although the hope of reinstat- ing himself in his sovereign's good graces might have encouraged him in the undertaking, his conduct furnishes the best possible evidence of his sincerity in the representations he made. Would these several expedi- tions have been made by him when he was aware, that after wasting his time and property, he would be certain to meet, not the smiles, but the frowns of his sovereign ? — not the applause of the public, but its jeers and ridicule % The unsuccessful result of the first, after which he was refused by the Queen admittance to her court, and the public received his accounts with incredulity, was sufficient to dispel from his mind a pro- ject — not merely if it had been founded on very slight grounds, but even had he not entertained the most sanguine hopes of its success. But it may be inquired, if Raleigh sincerely believed the mineral riches of Guyana were such as he depicted, why he did not, on his first expedi- tion, remain to prosecute the discovery of it. To this inquiry, which he anticipated, he gives the following answer. He states that the Charibee chief, on the Oronoke, from whom he obtained his information of that country, informed him that the Epuremei, the principal nation in the inte- rior, and whom it was necessary to subdue, were too powerful for him to attempt it with the force he had ; that on being asked if he should not be able to take "the first town of the civil and apparelled people," the chief answered in the affirmative ; and that he would himself accompany him, with all the borderers, if the rivers were fordable, and he left behind fifty men to protect his people against the Epuremei, who would, after they left, invade them, in consequence of their furnishing guides to him ; and being informed by Raleigh that it was not in his power to spare that num- RALEIGH AND TOPIAWARI. 91 ber, he begged him to defer the enterprise to the next year, when the rivers would be fordable. These reasons being taken by Raleigh into serious consideration, and reflecting that an unsuccessful attempt at that time would injure his success hereafter, by rendering the Indians in the interior hostile to the English, as they were then to the Spaniards, seeing that they came for the same object, to sack and plunder — he concluded to defer the enterprise to another year ; and after making an alliance with this chief, and giving him a promise to return at that time, proceeded to England.* " This Cacique," says Raleigh, " is held for the proudest and wisest of all the Oronokoponi ; and he so behaved himself toward me in all his answers, as I marvelled to find a man of that gravity and sound judgment, and of so good discourse, that had no help of learning or breed." f That Sir Walter Raleigh made such a promise to this chief, is proved, not only by his actually sending out the next year another expedition to the Oronoke — being prevented by his public engagements himself accompa- nying it — but by accounts which voyagers, who sailed to the coast of Guyana some years after, gave of the inquiries the Charibees made of them respecting him, and their disappointment at his not fulfilling his promise. In the account of the voyage by Charles Leigh to the river Oyapoke, in Cayenne, in 1604, (nine years after) he observes, the Ga- libis, or Charibees, (who inhabit there) often asked him of Sir Walter Raleigh ; and that one came from the Oronoke expressly to inquire respect- ing him, alleging the promise he made of his return, f Robert Harcourt, who made a voyage to the same river in 1608, states, that the chief upon it, with Avhom he made a treaty, said that he remem- bered the arrival of Raleigh on the Oronoke, and the submission of the Charibees to his sovereign ; and that he had made a promise to return — for his not fulfilling which, says Harcourt, I excused him, by reason of his employments of great importance at home, and observed, that when he found he could not return, he had sent Captain Keymis in his place to visit them. § And the Mariwin Inquirer, the associate of Harcourt, re- lates, that the ancient Indian, who gave him an account of Manoa, &c, and was from the Oronoke, «airl that Topiawari, the Charibee chief on that river with whom Raleigh made an alliance, " wondered that he had not heard from him according to his promise, and that he thought the Spaniards had slain him ; and that Topiawari had drawn in several nations under two chiefs, Wanaritone, captain of Canuria, and Wacariopea, captain of Say- ma, against Raleigh's coming, to have made war against the Epuremei, and that these chiefs were still expecting him."|| Dr. Bancroft, in his history of Guyana, published in 1766, says, that the Charibees of Guyana at that time — which was one hundred and seven- ty-one years after Raleigh's first voyage — retained a tradition of an Eng- *_Cayley, vol. 1, pp. 252-258. t Cayley, vol. 1, p. 240. t Paichas's Region and Religion of the World. § Purchas's Coll. of Voyages, Book vi. ch. xvi. || Appendix, No. 1. 92 EL DORADO. lish chief, who, many years since, traded with thenl and encouraged them to persevere in enmity to the Spaniards ; promising to return and settle amono- them, and afford them assistance. It is said they still preserve an English Jack, which he left with them to distinguish his countrymen. This, adds Bancroft, could be no other than Sir Walter Raleigh. It is undoubted, that a warm and brilliant imagination, animated by the fire of a poetical genius, which threw the brightest colors on objects that presented a favorable aspect to him, was a conspicuous trait in the mind of Sir Walter Raleigh. But this, so far from being extraordinary in the pursuit of distant and hazardous undertakings, the possession of this facul- ty seems to be necessary to the success of any enterprise. Under the in- fluence of imagination, distant objects may be sometimes pursued that are airy phantoms ; but without it.no pursuit of what is difficult and uncertain would ever be attempted. It is the breeze that impels a ship on a voyage, and although it may sometimes drive it on shoals or rocks, without its in- fluence the gallant vessel would remain motionless on shore. When an object is pursued with the hope of success, it is presented by the imagina- tion in such bright and attractive colors, as to produce an ardor and a pas- sion of the mind to obtain it, which overlooks all obstacles, or gives an energy to surmount them. But when viewed through the medium of sober calculation, and the dangers and hazards attending its pursuit, as well as the advantages expected from it, coolly weighed, doubt and inde- cision follow ; delay arises ; the novelty, which added much to its charms, wears away, until that which was once anxiously desired is viewed with indifference, as too difficult to be obtained, or if obtained, not worth the pursuit. Would Columbus have fostered the bold and magnificent idea of crossing the broad Ocean, Avhich washes the shores of Europe, whose extent no one knew or could divine, with the expectation of finding a new world beyond it, had he calmly considered all the difficulties and hazards to be met with in the execution of the project, and deliberately weighed all the arguments in favor of and against his success ? But his mind, susceptible of grand conceptions and bold resolutions, when the idea was presented to it, it struck into a congenial soil ; and as hew armed with the contemplation of it, an enthusiasm in the pursuit was produced which no difficulties could damp. Such was the case Avith Sir Walter Raleigh. The accounts which he had read of El Dorado and the wealth of Guyana, had for years been the subjects of his thoughts ; presenting to him a brilliant project, suitable to his enterprising genius to achieve ; and in some of its features corres- ponding with the imaginative poetical cast of his mind, it took complete possession of it, and inspired him with an irresistible ardor to undertake it. Had he stopped to reason on the subject — to balance arguments on the one side and the other — a host of objections would have started up before him. The country he proposed to explore, was wholly unknown. It had never even been at all entered by European footsteps, except by by the individual Juan Martinez, who first gave the account of " the rich UNJUST CENSURE. 93 and magnificent city," which certainly required confirmation. This famed city had been sought, too, for a long time, by adventurers in vari- ous directions — by Belalcazar and Pizarro, from Peru across the Andes ; Philip de Urra, southwardly from Venezuela; Orellana and Orsua } down the Amazon — the whole length of it to the Ocean — and numerous others, without giving any information of a city discovered by them at all corresponding to the description of the one they sought, excepting Urra, whose narrative was generally considered too marvellous to be credited. Then Guyana, through its whole extent, was covered with almost imper- vious forests ; the Indians inhabiting it reported to be of the most ferocious character, and some even cannibals. The Spaniards, besides, were desi- rous of acquiring this region, and his attempt to conquer it would meet with their opposition. j But his mind, illumined by a fervid imagination, saw another prospect. The whole of Guyana, extending from the Amazon to the Oronoke, it is true, was wholly unknown. But for that reason, it might be desirable to examine it for this rumored Golden City. The disappointment of the numerous adventurers, who went on toilsome expeditions in search of it, ought not to deter. Their persevering pursuit of it, evinces their full conviction of its reality, and they sought for it, perhaps, in a wrong direc- tion ; and it may be found in the region now pointed out as its locality, yet unexplored. If the Spaniards, in their conquests in South America, found rich cities inhabited by the natives, abounding in gold, on the west of the Andes — may there not be such, at least one, discovered east of this chain toward the Atlantic ? The rough state of the country, and the ter- ror the native tribes inspired, were not sufficient to daunt him. The shores of North America had been examined and colonized under his direction, and the colonists sent there were not repulsed or ill-used by the inhabit- ants, but met from them, invariably, a welcome reception. The oppo- sition of the Spaniards caused him no apprehension. The country was yet unpossessed by Europeans — the field was open — he would endeavor to discover and possess it ; and if he succeeded in his attempt, would maintain it against them. And, in the censures which some historians have passed upon him, it seems to have been entirely overlooked, that he is not the only one who was led away by the delusive idea of " the Golden City j" but that num. bers before him, men of the first rank in Peru and New Grenada, brave military leaders and distinguished viceroys, enthusiastically followed the pursuit of it. If they should not only have yielded to the belief of it, but hazarded their lives and fortunes to discover it — fitting out the most expensive expeditions, which, says Mr. Southey, have cost Spain more than all the treasures she has received from her possessions in America — it is surprising that so great a want of candor should have been shown to an English hero, whose chivalric courage and enterprising genius were ex- cited by the same dazzling prospect. 94 ELDORADO. And even after his voyages to Guyana, although the ardor in search of EI Dorado greatly diminished, and no expeditions by any numerous bands of colonists have been made, yet solitary enterprises have been undertaken and encouraged by Governors of the Spanish provinces, even to the latest period. "At Cuenza, in the kingdom of Quito," observes Hum* boldt, " I met with some men who were employed by the Bishop of Marfil, to seek at the east of the Cordilleras, in the plains of Macas, the ruins of the town of Logrono, which was believed to be situated in a country rich in gold. We learn by the journal of Hortsman, that it was supposed in 1740, Dorado might be readied from Dutch Guyana, by going up the Rio Essequibo. Don Manuel Centurion, the Governor of Angustura, dis- played an extreme ardor for reaching the imaginary lake of Manoa. An Indian of the nation of the Ipurucutoes, went down the Rio Carony, and by false narratives inflamed the imagination of the Spanish colonists Another Indian chief, known among the Charibees of Essequibo by the name of Captain Juraddo, vainly attempted to undeceive the Governor. Fruitless attempts were made by the Caura and the Rio Paragua, and several hundred persons perished miserably in their rash enterprises, from Avhich, however, geography has derived some advantages. Nicholas Rodriguez and Antonio Santos were employed by the Governor."* Santos is the individual who has before been spoken of, as one of the four instan- ces of travellers who came near the supposed site of lake Parima, of whose journal Humboldt had a perusal ; and who went up the Caroni and the Paragua, one of its branches, then crossed the Cordillera of Parima, and came to St. Rosa, on the Uaripara, a tributary of the western branch of the Branco, from which he passed down the Branco into the Amazon and to the Brazils. De Pons, in his ' History of Caraccas, 5 gives some further particulars in regard to this adventure. " When the wild Indian appeared before the Governor of Spanish Guyana, he was assailed with questions, which he answered with as much perspicuity and precision as could be expected from one whose most intelligible language consisted in signs. He, however, succeeded in making them understand that there was, on the banks of lake Parima, a city, whose inhabitants were civilized and regularly disciplined to war. He boasted a groat deal of the beauty of its buildings, the neatness of its streets, the regularity of^its squares, and the riches of its people. According to him, the roofs of its principal houses were either of gold or silver. The high-priest, instead of pontifi- cal robes, rubbed his whole body with the fat of the turtle ; then they blew upon it some gold-dust, so as to cover his whole body with it. In this attire, he performed the religious ceremonies. The Indian sketched on a table, with a bit of charcoal, the city of which he had given a description. His ingenuity seduced the Governor. He asked him to serve as a guide to some Spaniards he wished to send on this discovery, to which the Indian consented. Six Spaniards oifered themselves for this undertaking, and among others, Don Antonio Santos. They setoff and * Humboldt's Pep. Nar.. ch. stir. RALEIGH AND ESSEX. 95 travelled nearly five hundred leagues to the south, through the moat frightful roads. Hunger, the swamps, the woods, the precipices, the heats, the rains, destroyed almost all. When those who survived thought themselves four or five days' journey from the capital city, and hoped to reach the end of all their troubles and the object of their desires, the Indian disappeared in the night. This event dismayed the Spaniards. They knew not where they were. By degrees, they all perished but Santos, to whom it occurred to disguise himself as an Indian. He threw off his clothes, covered his whole body with red paint, and introduced himself among them by his knowledge of many of their languages. He was a long time among them, until, at length, he fell into the power of the Portuguese established on the banks of the Rio Negro. They em- barked him on the river Amazon, and after a very long detention, sent him back to his country."* But in addition to the proofs which I have given, of the sincere belief of Sir Walter Raleigh in the representations he made of the wealth of Guyana at least — for I do not know how much longer the idea of El Do- rado possessed his mind after the three expeditions which he made to this, region, which have been related — there is the further strongest evidence in the fact, that the conquest and possession of this countxy continued afterward to be prosecuted by him with undiminished ardor ; although diffi- culties, in which he became involved at home, from the jealousy and rival ship of contemporary statesmen, the buddings of which had appeared some time before, threw obstacles in his way. Indications of the opposi- tion to him of the Earl of Essex appeared, as has been mentioned, some time before, in the expedition against the city of Cadiz, in which Raleigh was engaged, under him. The leaders of this expedition, found a very gra- cious reception from the Queen on their return ; but Essex was dissatis- fied that more had not been done ; and, to add to his mortification, found that Sir Robert Cecil had acquired a predominant influence with her, and been appointed Secretary of State. They thus became rivals and ene- mies, and headed two powerful factions, which divided the court, and contended for the supreme direction of affairs.f Raleigh was subse- quently employed in various naval expeditions under Essex, and in the course of them, the animosity of the minister to him again disclosed itself. The danger to him, however, from this circumstance, began to be less, as he was then in the favor of the Queen, and on good terms with Cecil ; and the influence of Essex at the court was on the decline. Various causes contributed to foment the displeasure of Queen Elizabeth against him ; and Essex, at length seeing her fixed dislike, and the hopelessness of all efforts to regain her favor, set on foot those acts for the overthrow of her government, which cost him his life. He had, in the mean time, been courting the friendship of King James of Scotland, who looked to the succession to the throne of England ; and in his correspondence, his own enemies were represented to James, as enemies to his succession ; * Cayley. vol. 2. p. 301-306. t Hist, of Caraccas, vol. 3. p. 387. 96 ELDORADO. among whom, Raleigh would naturally be included — and, with great ap- pearance of probability, Essex may be called the first planter of a preju- dice in the mind of James against him. With the death of Queen Elizabeth, the good fortunes of Raleigh sank to rise no more. No sooner was the blow struck against Essex, than Raleigh found another rival appearing against him at the court. Cecil, as well as Essex, found it prudent, during the life of Elizabeth, to cultivate the favor of James, who was likely soon to become his sovereign. He commenced a secret correspondence with him, and in some of the let- ters, which have been published, he speaks of Raleigh in terms of strong disaffection. The cause of his opposition is but little known ; but it is probable, that after the fall of Essex, their friendship terminated in a ri- valship for power. On the accession of James, the prepossessions thus early instilled in his mind against Raleigh, were increased by other causes. Raleigh appears to have been among those, who, in regard to the known feud between England and Scotland, had a desire that he might be bound by articles ; and his enterprising and martial character was little agreeable to James. Under these circumstances, it is not surprising that he received neglect at court. The tide of prejudice ran strong against him ; and no thought or action of his life, was any longer innocent. Three months had not elapsed, before he was charged with treasonable practices against the government.* He was, it appears, at that time on terms of intimacy with Lord Cobham ; who, being also out of favor at court, was engaged in various schemes to revenge himself against it. Among others, he had an intercourse with persons concerned in a Popish plot, and this treason be- ing discovered, he became suspected. In consequence of Raleigh's inti- macy with him, doubts also arose in regard to him. Upon this, they were all apprehended. The leading conspirators were first tried, con- demned, and suffered the penalty of the law. Sir Walter Raleigh was then, on the seventeenth of November, 1603, tried ; and by the influ- ence of the court, and the vehement, abusive eloquence of the Attorney General, Sir Edward Coke, without any color of evidence, was convicted of high treason. f But the King did not sign the warrant for his execu- tion. He was committed to the Tower, with the sword hanging over his head, to suffer under the constant apprehension of the execution of the sentence, or with the alternative of an indefinite, perhaps, perpetual im- prisonment. In his confinement, however, he was allowed various privi- leges; and he had many friends and pityers in his adverse fortune, among whom were the Queen, and the celebrated Henry, Prince of Wales. An attachment of peculiar strength appears to have subsisted between Prince Henry and him. " No king but my father would keep such a bird in a cage," was a remark of his. His death, in his nineteenth year, was a loss to Raleigh, of the widest extent imaginable ; as well from the real esteem which he manifested for his character, as from the future prospects * Cwley.vol, }. PP. 352-358. t Campbell's Lives of the Admirab RALEIGH IN PRISON. 97 which the Prince's patronage afforded him. The death of Cecil, six months before, had inspired him with the hopes of obtaining his freedom ; as, in the Earl of Somerset, who succeeded him, he had a steady friend, which would naturally be much discouraged by the latter event, but were en- tirely dispelled by this minister's falling into disgrace. Villiers then became the favorite ; and, by this event, Raleigh effected by money, what the most powerful patronage could not accomplish. Fifteen hundred, pounds, given to two friends of the minister, procured their influence with him, and the King's consent to his enlargement ; and thus, on the seven- teenth of March, 1616, after an imprisonment of more than twelve years' duration, Sir Walter Raleigh at length obtained his freedom.* During his long confinement, it may naturally be supposed, he did not suffer his brilliant talents to be unemployed and wasted in unavailing repinings, or sullen indolence. The frowns of a monarch, or the gloom of a prison, were unable to repress the activity of his ardent and vigorous- intellect. The pursuit of literature and science in various departments, was his constant employment; and his efforts in which, have made him. as distinguished as his daring enterprises on sea or land. " The advan- tages of a cultivated understanding," says Mr. Cayley, " have, perhaps, seldom been more truly recognized, than they were at this time, by Sir- Walter Raleigh, in alleviating confinement, and supporting the endless diversity of fortune. The disposition he made of his time, discovered in this, not less than on other occasions, the superiority of his mind ; for, in the calm contemplation of his intellectual talents, he found the resource of all others best adapted to relieve his situation, and which a superior mind could alone advert to. His History of the World, and many of his political pieces, were composed in the Tower ; and much of his time was amused with chemical pursuits, to which he appears to have had a strong partiality." f As one of the most elegant writers of England observes : " His vigor sunk not, when a coward reign The warrior fettered : Then active still, and unrestrained, his mind Explored the vast extent of ages past, And with his prison hours enriched the world." * Cayley, vol. 2. pp. 47-56. f Cayley, vol, 3. p. 46. CHAPTER VI. HIS LIBERATION FROM IMPRISONMENT. — PREPARES ANOTHER (HIS FOURTH) EXPEDITION TO GUYANA — UNFORTUNATE FAILURE OF IT HIS RETURN HOME GREAT DISPLEASURE OF THE KING AGAINST HIM HIS TRAGICAL END CONSEQUENCES OF HIS VOYAGES TO THAT COUNTRY COLONIES SENT TO IT FROM ENGLAND SKETCH OF THE SETTLEMENTS MADE IN IT BY OTHER NATIONS. It may also be readily conceived, that, to the enterprising mind of Sir Walter Raleigh, while in confinement — entertaining, as he no doubt would, the hope that the efforts he was continually making for his libera- tion would be successful — the field of future action would, amid his studies, present itself; especially, the favorite scheme which he had for years before pursued with persevering ardor — the conquest of Guayana. I have remarked that, although, after the third expedition made by him to that country, the difficulties, in which he became involved at home, caused impediments to the attainment of his object, they were little able to relax his ardor in the pursuit of it- How great were the distresses and troubles into which he was plunged, has just been shown. But, that amid them all, this enterprise, in which he had formerly so enthusiasti- cally embarked, was not forgotten, is seen by the following passage from Dr. Campbell's ' Lives of the Admirals.' " Among the subjects which occupied his mind, a prominent one was his old scheme of settling Guyana ; a scheme worthy of him, and which, as he first discovered, so he constantly prosecuted. We have seen how many voyages he encouraged during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when, considering the many great employments he engaged in, one would have thought his mind might have been otherwise occupied ; and so it must have been, if he had not been thoroughly persuaded, and that upon the best evi- dence in the world, his own eyesight and judgment, that this was the richest country in the world, and the worthiest of being settled for the benefit of Britain. This persuasion was so strong upon him, that, during his confine- ment, he held a constant intercourse with Guyana ; sending, at his own charge, every year, or every second year, a ship to keep the Indians in hopes of his performing the promise he made them, of coming to their assistance and delivering them from the tyranny and cruelty of the Span- iards, who now encroached upon them again. In these ships were brough* out several of the natives of that country, with whom Sir Walter con versed in the Tower." RALEIGH'S LAST EXPEDITION. 99 Two years before his liberation, he offered to the court a scheme for the settlement of it, but on which nothing could be done, as he was not yet able to obtain his discharge. But soon after he was liberated, viz : on the twenty-sixth August of that year, he obtained a royal commission to undertake it at his own expense, with the most ample grant of powers;* and as soon as he received it, he made preparations for procuring funds for a new expedition to that region. Circumstances favored the under- taking. A new and bright prospect opened to him, and his mind was elated with the almost certain expectation, of at length realizing the object of which he had so long been in pursuit. The opinion of the pub- lic, in regard to him, was altered, and this enterprise received from it greater attention and encouragement than his former ones. Co-adven- iurers likewise were obtained, among whom were some foreigners, f Hume, who, of all his censurers, has inveighed most bitterly against him, makes the following remarks on this period of his life : " The sen- timents of the nation were much changed in regard to him. Men had leisure to reflect on the hardship, not to say injustice, of his sentence ; they pitied his active and enterprising spirit, which languished in the rigors of confinement ; they were stuck with the extensive genius of the man, who, being educated amid naval and military enterprises, had sur- passed, in the pursuits of literature, even those of the most recluse and sedentary lives ; and they admired his unbroken magnanimity, which, at his age, and under his circumstances, could engage him to undertake and execute so great a work as the History of the World." Sir Walter Raleigh, with the means which he and his associates pro- vided, equipped a fleet of eight vessels, of which one was built at his own charge, and he accompanied in her as captain. There were also on board of her two hundred men, of which eighty were '•' gentlemen vol- unteers ;" and adventurers, many of them his relations, which number was afterward increased. Of the other vessels, most of them were of a smaller size, as tenders. On the twenty-eighth May, 1617, twenty-two years after the jirst expedi- tion made by him for the same object, the fleet had dropped down the Thames. Stress of weather obliged him to put into Cork, and it was late in August before he could proceed. He arrived on the coast of Guyana, at the river Cayenne, twelfth November, 1617, a district inhabited by the Charibee Indians, belonging to the same nation with those on the Oronoke, with whom, on his first arrival, in 1595, he made an amicable alliance ; and long as had been the period of his absence, he found their friendly sentiments to him were not in the least diminished. In a letter which he wrote to Lady R,aleigh from this place, he says : " To tell you that I viight be here King of the Indians, were a vanity. But my name h*th still lived among them here. They feed me with all that the ccuj^ry yields. All oner to obey me.'" * Campbell's Lives of the Admirals. t Cayley, vcO. 2. PP. 6&-61, 7* 100 ELDORADO. But the prospect of a favorable result to this expedition, which this welcome reception by the Charibees was calculated to inspire, was soon dispelled. Disastrous events commenced, which dissipated all his cher- ished hopes, and led to consequences which finally entirely overwhelmed him. His illness, in the course of the voyage, which was not extraor- dinary after his close confinement in the walls of a prison for thirteen years, rendering him little prepared to encounter a change of climate, the sea air, and other inconveniences of a voyage, laid the foundation for the unfortunate events that subsequently happened. He remained at Cayenne river until the fourth December, having been dangerously ill for six weeks — when, not Wishing to incur any longer delay in prosecuting the expe- dition, and being unable himself to accompany it, he gave orders to five small vessels, each of which to have a company of fifty men, to sail to the Oronoke, under the direction of Captain Keymis, his trusty associate, who had commanded the second expedition made by him to this river, in 1596. Keymis proceeded up the Oronoke with the vessels intrusted to his charge, (the other ships remaining at Trinidad,) to accomplish the object of the expedition. He was absent above two months ; and on his return, gave Raleigh the unwelcome and most unexpected intelligence of the total failure of the enterprise, accompanied with the afflicting account of the death of his son. He related, that the Spaniards had a settlement or town on the river, two miles below the mine ; that he intended. to proceed at once to the mine, but, from the lowness of the river, he could not aproach to it nearer than a mile ; when he landed his companies, in- tending to remain on the bank of the river until the next day, when they were set upon in the night and charged by the Spaniards. To repel this force, they charged back, and following the Spaniards in their retreat, entered the town, of which they took possession, and drove them to the woods ; in which assault young Raleigh was killed. The town being thus possessed, he prepared to discover the mine, and went to it in a shal- lop with eight men. But on approaching near the bank where he intended to land, he received from the woods a volley of shot, which slew two of the company, and wounded others. He made no further attempts to reach the mine, and returned with his vessels to Trinidad. For not proceeding to it and making further dis- coveries, he gave as excuses to Raleigh, the death of his son, and his fear that he was himself dead, or, that the news of his son would hasten his end : to which he added, that the Spaniards being in the woods between the mine and the town, it was impossible to reach the mine unless they had been driven out ; for which they had no men, as the greater part of the thre/} companies guarded the town against the daily and nightly alarms, with vhich they were troubled ; that it was also impossible to keep any companies at the mine, for want of provisions from the town, which they were not abn to carry up the mountains. The following circumstance is mentioned by Raleigh, in one of his letters, as having had, also, weight ITS FAILURE. 191 in inducing him to give up the enterprise. Letters from the King of Spain were intercepted by him, containing an order for strengthening the Spaniards on the Oronoke, with one hundred and fifty soldiers, who were to have descended the river from New- Grenada ; and one hundred and fifty to have come up it, from the island of Porto Rico, with ten pieces of ordnance ; the arrival of which he was hourly apprehensive of, and by which he might have been inclosed. Birch, in his Life of Raleigh, gives the following account of the cause of the failure of this expedition : " The five ships found a new Spanish town, called St. Thomas, consisting of about one hundred and forty houses, though lightly built — with a convent, a chapel of Franciscan friars, and a garrison, erected on the main channel of the Oronoke, about twenty miles distant from the place where Antonio Berreo attempted to plant. Keymis and the rest thought themselves obliged, through fear of havino- the enemy's garrison between them and their boats, to deviate from their instructions — which enjoined them, first to carry a little party to make trial of the mine, under shelter of their camp • and then to deal with the Spanish town as it should behave toward them. They determined, there- fore, to land in one body, and encamp between the mine and the town ; by which means, though themselves were the stronger, their boats were exposed, and the mine left untried, contrary to Raleigh's orders. For, about three weeks after their departure, landing by night nearer the town than they suspected, and intending to rest themselves on the river's side till morning, they were, in the night-time, set upon by the Spanish troops, — apprised of, and forewarned of their coming."* But whatever were the causes which produced a failure of the expedi- tion, the intelligence of it, communicated to Raleigh, overwhelmed him. The letters and dispatches which he wrote to England, at this time, are in the strain of a heart-broken man, and bear the strongest internal evi- dence of the sincerity of his intentions, in planning the enterprise, and his confident expectations of obtaining the great results from it which he held forth. And, certainly, abundant cause existed for his deep dejection. After having resolved on this project more than twenty years — even du- ring his long imprisonment, maturing plans for its accomplishment — when his freedom at length obtained, embarking all his property, he suc- ceeded in preparing another expedition for the purpose ; seeing the fleet which he equipped, safely cross the ocean, and touch the shores of the country, to him so full of bright anticipations ; and now, when about to seize the prize on which his eyes had so long rested — to behold all his hopes suddenly blasted — this last attempt made by him to effect his long cherished object, frustrated, probably, never again to be resumed — in addition, his son killed, and himself lingering under disease ; this calami- tous reverse was sufficient to depress, with gloom and melancholy, even his buoyant and gallant spirit, v/hich had, through life, borne itself above every difficulty and adversity. * Birch's Life of Raleigh, pp. 76-77. 102 EL DORADO. After he had heard the relation of Keymis, he told him that he had undone him, and ruined his credit with the King past recovery. Keymis himself, deeply mortified at the result, solicited Raleigh to write a letter to England, in his own name, presenting the excuses he offered for his failure ; which being declined, he withdrew, and soon after, on going to his cabin, was found dead, having shot himself with a pistol.* Raleigh, knowing the enemies he had at home — that the King himself was his determined foe, and that the relenting of his resentment was pro- duced only by the expectations he formed from this expedition ; and re- collecting what efforts had been made to discredit all his former enterpri- ses, having the same object — looked forward to his return to England, bearing the news of the failure of the present, with the most fearful ap- prehensions of the disastrous consequences to him. And they were most fully verified. On the return of the fleet to England, which was probably about May, 1618, he encountered a burst of public censure, as a gross deceiver and pretender ; who, to procure his liberation, had held out the prospect of a gold mine in Guyana, which was a mere chimera, an imaginary thing — and experienced a most decided manifestation of the royal displeasure. His co-adventurers, disappointed in their expectations, contributed to in- crease the public displeasure against him. They concluded that they were deceived by him ; that he had never known of any such mine as he pretended to go in search of; that his intention had ever been to plun- der the Spanish town, St. Thomas, and having encouraged his company with the spoils of that place, to have thence proceeded to the invasion of other Spanish settlements in South America, and that he expected to repair his ruined fortunes by such daring enterprises.! To all these charges, Raleigh, in his apology, thus forcibly and feel- ingly replies : " If they (his co-adventurers,) could not force Keymis to go to the mine, when he was, by his own confession, within two days' march of it — to examine where the two ingots of gold which they brought in, were taken, which they found laid by for the King of Spain's fifth part, or the small pieces of silver which had the same marks or stamps — if they refused to send any one of the fleet into the country to see the mines which the Cacique Carapana offered them — I say there is no reason to lay it to my charge, that I carried them with a pretence of gold, when neither Keymis nor myself knew of any in those parts. If it had been to have gotten my liberty, why did I not keep my liberty when I had it ? Nay, why did I put my life in manifest peril to forego it ? If I had had a purpose to have turned pirate, why did I oppose myself against the greatest number of my company, and was thereby in danger to be slain, or cast into the sea, because I refused it ? " A strange fancy had it been in me, to have persuaded my own son. whom I have lost, and to have persuaded my wife to have adventured the eight thousand pounds, which his majesty gave them for Sherborne, and * Cayley's Life of Raleish, oh. via, t Hume's Hist. England, vol, 5. p. U3. HOSTILITY OF GONDOMAR. 103 when that was spent, to persuade my wife to sell her house at Mitcham, in hope of enriching them by the mines of Guyana, if I myself had not seen them with my own eyes ? For being old and weakly, thirteen years in prison, and not used to the air, to travel and to watching — it being ten to one that I should ever have returned— and of which, by reason of my violent sickness, and the long continuance thereof, no man had any hope, what madness would have made me undertake the journey, but the assurance of this mine ? — thereby, to have done his majesty service, to have bettered my country by the trade, and to have restored my wife and children to the estate they had lost, for which I have refused all other ways and means. For that I had no purpose to have changed my master and country, my return in the state I did return, may satisfy every honest and indifferent man."* / The relation of the events which befell Sir Walter Raleigh, connected with his expeditions to Guyana, which has thus far been given, is sufficient for the purpose for which it was made — the exculpation of this distin- guished man from the charge of deception, in the representations he made of that country. No candid person who reads the narrative of the measures taken by him in regard to the acquisition of it, through a long course of years ; the strong possession the project took of his mind, and the sacrifices he made for the purpose ; but must be convinced that, — however he may, through the influence of a warm imagination and en- thusiastic temper, have been deluded into the belief of the existence ot great mineral treasures in Guyana, which a better knowledge of the country has shown to be without foundation — he fully believed in the representations he made, and did not impose upon the world a fabri- cation of his own ; and, particularly, this last enterprise undertaken by him, for this object, under the peculiar circumstances in which it was made, and after such a lapse of time, ought to be sufficient to demon- strate the charge of deception and imposture made against him, to be entirely unfounded. But although in regard to the vindication of Sir Walter Raleigh, I might here close my remarks ; yet, as his last expedition to Guyana, which has just been related, was the cause of his melancholy fate, it will not, I think, be uninteresting to the reader, briefly to relate the events that sub- sequently befell him. The dissatisfaction of the King with him at the failure of his expedition, was increased by his collision with the Spaniards, who had established themselves on the Oronoke, prompted by Gondomar, the Spanish minister. This envoy, it was believed, had acquired considerable influence over him, and having looked upon Raleigh's former voyages with uneasiness, and carefully watched his movements when he was preparing his last expedi- tion, complained of it to the King as hostile and piratical to Spain ; and drew from his weakness, every particular of the voyage, on which the King sent for the patent to Raleigh and corrected it. Circumstances subsequent- * Cavley, vol. 2, pp. U0-1U. 104 ELDORADO. ly occurred, which enabled Gondomar to exert still greater power over him. The King, in giving his consent to this expedition, it is presumed, as his wants were great at this time, had placed great hopes on the discovery of the mine which Raleigh had represented to exist on the Oronoke. But afterward a project being started of a Spanish matrimonial alliance, which he began to idolize, he found it more important to him to preserve peace with Spain, and grew less in favor of Raleigh's enterprise. Such being the state of his feelings, on the return of Raleigh, Gondomar availed him- self of it to procure his ruin. Accordingly, as soon as intelligence arrived in London of Raleigh's proceeding, he proceeded to the King, exclaiming, " Pirates! pirates! pirates!" without adding more. By all these causes King James was prepared, on the arrival of Raleigh, to make 3tim suffer the penalties of the law, on the ground of his having committed acts of hostility against a power with whom England was then at peace ; and, on the tenth of June, published a proclamation, declaring his detestation of the conduct of the expedition, and charging such of his subjects as could give any information respecting it, to repair immediately to the privy council. Raleigh no sooner reached Plymouth, and heard of the proclamation, than he resolved to surrender himself, confiding, as- he confessed before his death, too much in the King's goodness. On his way to London he met with his relative, Sir Lewis Stukely, with author- ity to arrest and bring him to London. With him he returned to Ply- mouth, where, panic-struck, upon a closer view of his situation, he once meditated an escape to France. Still, however, the goodness of his cause prevailed over every apprehension, and the project was laid aside. Yet he found it necessary, on his journey to London, to gain time for prepa- ring his vindication, by the expedient of feigning sickness, and in that in- terval wrote the apology for his voyage. As he approached to London, when a messenger appeared witli a warrant for the speedy bringing up of his person, his constancy forsook him, and he again attempted an escape to France. But he greatly misapplied his trust in the agents he employ- ed. His relative, Stukely, after encouraging, and even pretending to lend a hand in the design, received a bribe and betrayed him. In a boat, in the very act of making his escape in disguise, he was apprehended and committed to the Tower. Much deliberation was exercised by the Chancellor and Commissioners, which continued two months, in regard to the manner of proceeding against him. It was at last determined, that the sentence which had been passed against him fifteen years since, the execution of which had been suspend- ed, should be enforced ; and soon after the decision had been made known to the King, a privy seal was sent to the Judges to order immediate execu- tion. Raleigh was then called to the bar, and being informed by the court of the order of the King, and asked, in the customary form, why execution should not be awarded against him ? — after apologizing for the weakness of EXECUTION OF RALEIGH. 105 hi* voice, in consequence of his late sickness, he hoped that the judgment which he received should not be strained to take away his life, as his ma- jesty had given him permission to proceed on a voyage beyond the seas, where he had power, as marshal, on the life and death of others, which he considered discharged the judgment. But he was interrupted by the Chief Justice, who told him that was not sufficient ; that in case of treason, by express words, and not by implication, pardon was granted ; and after exhorting him to meet his fate in a manner suitable to his high character, as a valiant and wise man, ordered execution. The warrant for his execution dispensed with the former judgment of hanging, drawing and quartering. Some petitions are said to have been presented to the King in his behalf, as well as solicitations from persons of distinction, which proved ineffectual. The Queen appears to have been in the number of his intercessors. i : "Few have acted," says Mr. Cayley, "so difficult a part in the last scene of his life, with the spirit and firmness which Raleigh displayed in it. The inefficacy of the intercessions with the King in his behalf, proved no disappointment to him. He no longer expected — he seemed not to wish for mercy. To some of his friends, who deplored his misfortune, he said, with calmness, ' The world is but a larger prison, out of which some are daily selected for execution.' " On Thursday morning, the twenty-ninth of October, he was conducted by the sheriff to the scaffold. His countenance was cheerful. He saluted the lords and gentlemen of his acquaintance who were present, and then entered into an explanation of his conduct. Having finished, he prepared himself for his execution. Having taken off his gown and doublet, he asked the executioner to show him the axe, and felt the edge, and smiling said to the sheriff, ' This is a sharp medicine, but it is a remedy for all dis- eases.' He then laid down, and after a short pause, made a sign that he "was ready ; and was beheaded, without the least shrink or motion of his body."* Thus did Sir Walter Raleigh lose his life, under a sentence which had lain dormant for fifteen years ; and which he considered was virtually ab. rogated, and his pardon granted, by the patent for the conquest of Guyana granted to him by the crown, by one clause of which he was constituted Governor and commander-in-chief of the enterprise; by another, appoint- ed Governor of the new colony he was to settle, with ample authority ; and by the third, he had a power rarely intrusted to admirals, that of ex- ercising martial law by sea and by land. And if he had thought it neces- sary, he might have obtained his pardon, for his friends at court, through whom he had procured his liberation from the Tower, offered £700 to obtain it for him, and this without requiring him to make the expedition to Guyana ; but when he consulted Sir Francis Bacon, the most eminent lawyer in England, whether it were advisable to pay a sum of money for his pardon in the common form, he said to him, " Sir, the knee-timber of * Cnyky's Life of Raleigh, vol. 2, ch. Ix. 106 EL DORADO. your voyage is money. Spare your purse in this particular, for upon my life you have a sufficient pardon for all that is past already ; the King having, under his broad seal, made you admiral of your fleet, and given you power of martial law over your officers and soldiers."* Raleigh, too, might have considered the long confinement which he endured, while the sentence was suffered to lay dormant, was a fulfill- ment of it, instead of the exaction of the literal penalty, and his liberation without any condition or restriction, was itself a virtual pardon. But he could not only justly complain of the form of proceeding adopted against him, but he contended, and on rightful grounds, that he had committed no act rendering him amenable to law. He was charged with a piratical proceeding against the possessions of the King of Spain. To this he replied, that Guyana belonged to England, having been first discovered by himself twenty-three years before, although the Spaniards came afterward in his absence and made a settlement there ; and that England actually considered it to belong to her, for, in 1609, seven years before his last expedition, she made a grant of nearly the whole of it to Mr. Robert Harcourt, resting her claim to the country on no other ground than his discovery, according to the rules adopted by all Protestant nations at that time, that the right of discovery gave a title to possessions in the new hemisphere. On this basis it was, that having, under the patent of discovery granted by Queen Elizabeth, discovered Virginia, he claimed it as belonging to England, for his benefit ; although Amidas and Barlowe, who were sent out by him with two vessels and made the discovery, after examining the country, only drew up a record signed by a number of their company as evidence that they had taken pos- session of it, and came away without making any establishment upon it, or leaving a single person behind. Against the claims of Spain to Guy- ana, Raleigh could also allege the amicable league he had made in be- half of the English with the Charibees, on the Oronoke, the rightfnl owners of the country ; who invited him among them, while they expelled the Spaniards, and relied on the assistance of the English against them. Be- sides, he had the King's leave to sail to the Oronoke and take possession of the mine he related to be there ; which the King would not have grant- ed, if he had considered that the country belonged to Spain ; for the pro- ceeding was equally piratical with the burning of a Spanish town. Spain, on the other hand, while she wholly disregarded the rights of the aborigi- nes in the new hemisphere, pretended an exclusive claim to all the undis- covered land in it, under a grant from Pope Alexander Sixth, who then filled the papal chair, and that no other nation had a right to any part of it on the ground of first discovery, and treated the claims of Raleigh as a perfect nullity. To this extravagant pretension of Spain, King James, in regard to the matrimonial alliance he had in view with it — being desirous to preserve amicable relations with it — found it expedient to yield, in opposition to the * Ciyley, vol. 2, pp. 63—64. INJUSTICE TO RALEIGH. 197 rules and principles uniformily followed by England in regard to foreign discoveries, and to sacrifice to a rival Power one of the brightest ornaments of his country. That the proceedings against Sir Walter Raleigh were clearly unjust and oppressive, has been proclaimed by the unanimous voice of after times. Able pens have done justice to his merits, while they have exposed the iniquity of his condemnation, and sympathized with the misfortunes of one so distinguished for his talents and services, who combined an assemblage of qualities seldom united in one individual, fitting him for any scene of action, public or private — at once Statesman, Soldier, Seaman, Philosopher and Poet ; and his history will ever remain a conspicuous, but clouded page, in the history of his country. Even his most violent enemies have been compelled to condemn the conduct of the Government toward him. " No measure of James's reign," says Hume, " was attended with more public dissatisfaction than the punishment of Sir Walter Raleigh. To exe- cute a sentence which was originally so hard, which had been so long suspended, and which seemed to have been tacitly pardoned, by confer- ring on him a new trust and. commission, was deemed an instance of cruelty and injustice. To sacrifice to a concealed enemy of England, the life of the only man in the nation who had a high reputation for valor and mili- tary experience, was regarded as meanness and indiscretion ; and the inti- mate connections which the King was now entering into with Spain, being universally distasteful, rendered the proof of his complaisance still more invidious and unpopular." Thus it has been seen that the project, which twenty-three years before seized on the mind of this distinguished man, and excited in him the most enthusiastic desire for its accomplishment ; and which, during that long period, he ardently and perseveringly pux'sued, he was unable to achieve ; while his unavailing efforts, after consuming all his estate, brought him to a melancholy end. But, although his enterprises to Guyana produced no benefit to him, but only misfortune, they were not profitless to his coun- try. Guyana was, therefore, in consequence of his discovery, claimed by England as belonging to her ; and others soon entered upon the field which he had opened, wrested the prize from him, for which he had so long con- tended, and reaped the benefit of all his toils and efforts. The description he gave of this country in his Narrative, with the glow- ing colors of a warm imagination, drew strongly public attention in Eng- land to this region ; and gave rise, even before his last voyage, and while he was yet in prison in the Tower, to two voyages to it, by persons wholly unconnected with him. In 1604, Charles Leigh fitted out a vessel, and sailed to the river Oyapoke in Cayenne, and took possession, for England, of all the country lying between the Oronoke and Amazon. In 1608, Robert Harcourt, Esq., whose voyage and narrative have been frequently mentioned, set sail for the same river with a colony, where he arrived May seventeenth, and commenced a settlement. He took " possession, in his 108 EL DORADO. sovereign's name, of all the spacious country of Guyana, bounded on the north with the Oronoke and the sea, on the east and south with the river Amazon, and on the west with the mountains of Peru." On his return to England, he, with Sir Thomas Challoner and John Rowenson, obtained letters patent from James I. to settle all the lands between the Amazon and Spanish Guyana. It was this grant which Raleigh contended com- pletely exonerated him from the charge of any piratical proceeding against Spain, as by it England claimed the country as belonging to her. The attention of the English appears also to have been early turned to the river Surinam ; a company of colonists from England having settled there in 1634, engaged in the cultivation of tobacco, and in 1650 a plan for the colonization of it was set on foot by Lord Willoughby, of Parham, who sent to it a vessel with some men, where they were favorably received by the Indians and made a settlement on it, and in 1652 he obtained, together with Lawrence Hyde, a son of the Earl of Clarendon, a grant from Charles II. of all the country between Cayenne and Spanish Guyana, under the name of the Province of Surinam. * ■■' The French, also, now began to turn their attention to Guyana, and made successive attempts to colonize Cayenne, from 1624 to 1652 ; but which were frustrated by the opposition of the Charibees, who were the principal native population of that country — till at length an association formed in France, under the name of the French Equinoctial Company, in 1663, sent a colony to it, of sufficient force to withstand them and maintain possession of the country, which laid the foundation of the pres- ent colony. Prior to the arrival of either the English or French on this coast, a settlement had been made on the Surinam river by the Portuguese, or Spaniards. But they, also, commencing acts of cruelty against the Charibees, they attacked them, and destroyed the settlement. The Portuguese were, also, the first to settle on the Essequibo river, where they erected a fort, which was found deserted when the Dutch first came to it ; for they, at that time the commercial rivals of England, were also among the earliest navigators to the coast of Guyana. As early as 1580 — which was some years before the voyages of Raleigh — they attempted to form settlements on the Amazon, Oronoke, and Pomeroon, for trading purposes ; and on the last river they had a factory called New- Zealand. In 1581, the States General of Holland, privileged certain individuals to trade to this coast.f Before 1596, nine or ten armed ves- sels from Holland were seen trading in the Oronoke, for tobacco ; and before that time, also, they had made a settlement on the Essequibo. But the Spaniards looking on these proceedings with a jealous eye, drove the Dutch away from this river and the Pomeroon. In 1602, they planted a colony on the river Berbice, and about the same time had succeeded in establishing themselves on the Essequibo. In 1741, the colonists on this river, thinking the lands near the sea more productive than the upper * Hartsynck Beschryving von Guiana, p. 122. t Hartsynck. PRIORITY OF DISCOVERY. 109 country, on which they had previously settled, began to form plantations on the river Demerara.* I The acquaintance which the Dutch so early formed with the Oronoke, and which was before the first voyage of Raleigh, is not considered to affect his claim to the country upon it, as first discoverer, as it does not appear that they succeeded in making a location upon it, or that they entered into any treaty with the natives. Nor did they assert a right to this country, as first discoverers, against the English, although they were well acquainted with the expeditions of Raleigh to it ; for the first map of Guyana was made by Hondius in Holland, and was prepared from his narrative, and entitled, " A Chart of the Wonderful Region of Guyana, discovered by Sir Walter Raleigh." To the coast of Guyana, the Portuguese, undoubtedly, had a precedent claim as the first discoverers ; as they not only were the first to locate themselves on the Essequibo river, but erected a fort upon it ; and the grants of this district, subsequently made by England, as belonging to .her on the ground of the first discovery by Raleigh, therefore assumed a basis which was not correct. But asserting her right to it on this ground, she admitted the claim made by Raleigh to the borders of the Oronoke, and proved the clear injustice of the punishment which afterward fell upon him. The Dutch made early settlements also, in Cayenne ; but the efforts of the French to possess that country, obliged them to discontinue them. They also commenced them on the river Surinam, which were likewise thwarted by the measures the English took to maintain the colony they had established there, which continued with the bounds, as granted to Lord Willoughby, viz. : from Cayenne to Spanish Guayana, an appendage to England, until the year 1667. In this year, during the war which then existed between England and Holland, a Dutch fleet of three vessels, under Admiral Cryssen, came to the river Surinam, and ascending it to the English settlement, took the fort, and received the capitulation of the colonists. f In the mean time, England had conquered from the Dutch, their colony of New- Amsterdam, in North America, afterward called the province of New- York, and now one of the United States of America ; and by the treaty of peace which was concluded with her and Holland, in 1667, it was agreed, that each Power should retain the conquests it had made ; and Surinam was ceded in perpetuity to Holland, and the province of New-Amsterdam was yielded in like manner to England. ± The colonies of Essequibo, Demerara, and Berbice, formed by the Dutch within the limits of Surinam, now called British Guyana, were ceded to Great Britain, by Holland, for a valuable consideration, by a convention signed at London, thirteenth August, 1814. § * Martin's History of British Colonies. t Hartsinck, p. 586.1 I Rees's Cyclopedia. Holmes's American Annals. § Martin's History of British Colonies. 110 ELDORADO. The fact which I have stated, of the exchange of the province of Suri- nam for the territory now constituting the State of New-York, may be thought by some incredible ; but it is to be considered, that the present colony which bears that name, forms but a part of its bounds, as they were at that period ; — which were from Cayenne to Spanish Guyana, comprising an extent of coast of three hundred miles, and extending an equal distance, at least, into the interior, (embracing the portion now called British Guyana,) an area full as large as that of this State. Nor in regard to the value of the country, were the Dutch dissatisfied with the exchange. Guyana, it has been seen, was, during the first part of the seventeenth century, a prize contended for by various European powers. Spain, Portugal, France, England, and Holland, all endeavored to acquire possessions in it. The mineral riches reported to be there, not only the fable of El Dorado, but of mines of gold, gave the first impulse to the desire of Europeans to possess it, and presented it to them for some time as a land of promise. At the period of this exchange, the fable of El Dorado began to die on the ear ; the golden city, pursued like an ignis fatnus, but never discovered, was at length considered merely an idle tale ; and the mines of gold proved not to be so easily found, or when found, not of such certainty as to be much relied on. But the Dutch, who had some years before commenced settlements in Cayenne and Surinam, from which they had been overpowered by the French and English, found there was a richer mine in the fine alluvial soil along the coast of Guyana, well adapted to the cultivation of sugar and coffee ; the proof of which was seen in the profitableness of the colonies to Holland, which they formed upon it. But valuable as they are, what a contrast do they afford to the present elevated and flourishing condition of their northern colony, which they surrendered for this territory. They had not the gift of prophecy, to foresee, that over the large expanse of country embraced within its bounds, which extends westward from the Hudson river — then an un- broken wilderness, which they viewed only as the abode of the savage tribes who inhabited- it, whose inroads they continually dreaded — streams of population would, in time, in rapid succession spread, subduing the forests, and building up towns and villages without number, accompanied with the comforts, and even refinements of life, which in other countries belong only to an advanced period of their existence ; and that before the close of two centuries, their small and feeble colony would become the principal member of an important empire, with a population equal to that which Holland, its parent State, itself possesses. CHAPTER VII. EXAMINATION OF SEVERAL REMARKABLE RELATIONS MADE BY RALEIGH OF INDIAN TRIBES IN GUYANA AND ITS VICINITY, PARTICULARLY OF A NATION OF FEMALE WARRIORS ON THE AMAZON SIMILAR RELATIONS MADE BY VARIOUS TRAVELLERS. I cannot close my examination of Sir Walter Raleigh's Narrative of his first expedition to Guyana, without adverting to some other matters contained in it, of a tendency, unexplained, to affect him injuriously. The censure and ridicule which he incurred from the relations he made in it, of the mineral riches of that region and the city of El Dorado, were probably increased by accounts which he gave of some extraordinary tribes in it ; one of which, it is certain, contributed greatly to throw dis- credit on his whole relation — that of the existence in Guyana of a com- munity of female warriors, and is particularly mentioned by Hume in the denunciation he has made of him. Gn a candid examination, how- ever, ,of these relations, which I propose to make in the present and suc- ceeding chapter, his character will, I believe, be entirely relieved from any liability to censure in respect to them. One of these accounts, is that which he gives of a nation called Titi- vivas, inhabiting the numerous islands in the Delta of the Oronoke, whom he thus describes : " In the summer, they have houses on ground as in other places, and in the winter they dwell upon trees, where they huild very artificial towns and dwellings. They never eat anything that is set or sown. They use the tops of palmitos for bread, and kill deer, fish, &c, for their sustenance. They are, for the most part, makers of canoes, which they sell into Guyana for gold, and into Trinidado for tobacco."* i But that Sir Walter heard this account, there cannot be any doubt. The people who inhabit these islands are the Guaranos, whom Gumilla thus speaks of : "When their islands are periodically inundated by the rise of the Oronoke, they erect their huts on piles, to be above the water. These huts are made of the mauritia palm, which grows abundantly in these islands, and are covered with the leaves of it. From the fibres of the leaf, they make their hamacks and their cords for fishing, and bow* strings. Around the pulpy shoot that ascends from the trunk, is a web- like integument that serves them for the slight covering they wear. On the productions of this tree, also, they entirely subsist. The pulpy shoot is eaten as cabbage, and the tree bears a fruit like the date, but some- what larger. When the inundation ceases, the tree is cut down, and * Cayiey's Life of Raleigh, vol, 1. p. 215. 112 EL DORADO. bein the head of Orenoq, a month's travel." APPENDIX NO. II. The following testimony is given by Sir Walter Raleigh, in an Appendix to his Narrative, in further support of the opinion he entertained of the wealth of Guyana, and the existence in it of the rumored El Dorado. It consists of extracts of some Spanish letters, which he states were found in a prize vessel, taken by Capt. George Popham, in 1594, the year before his expe- dition, who, hearing of his discovery, on his own return to England, two month's after, delivered them to some of Queen Elizabeth's council." The authority of these papers cannot be questioned, as reference is thus publicly made to Captain Popham. Nor would Raleigh have made the assertion, that they were presented to the privy council, had such not been the case, which might also have been easily shown to be false. And, notwithstanding the attention given to his Narra- tive, and the detraction and ridicule which he, in consequence, received, it does not appear that any doubts were entertained of the genuineness of these letters. , Alonzo's letter from the Great Canaria, to his brother, being Commander of St. Lucar, concerning El Dorado. K There have been certain letters received here, of late, from a land newly dis- covered, called Nuevo Dorado, from the sons of certain inhabitants of this city, who were in the discovery. They write of wonderful riches to be found in the said Dorado, and that gold there is in great abundance. The course to fall in with it, is fifty leagues to the windward of Margueretta." (The name of Nuevo Dorado, or the new El Dorado, was given to it, to distin- guish it from the former sought by the Spaniards, southwest of the Rio Negro, toward the Amazon.) Alonzo's letter from thence to certain merchants of St. Lucar, concerning El Dorado. " Sir : We have no news worth writing, saving of a discovery lately made by the Spaniards, in a new land, called Nuevo Dorado, which is two days' journey, sailing to the windward of Margueretta. There is gold in such abundance, as the like has not been heard of. We have it for certain, in letters written from thence by some that were in the discovery, unto their parents in this city. I purpose (God willing) to bestow ten or twelve days in search of the said Dorado, as I pass in my journey toward Carthagena. I have sent you these, with part of the infor- mation of this discovery, that was sent to his majesty." 10* 148 APPENDIX. This information is of great importance in the history of El Dorado, in this new locality. It has been remarked in the first chapter, that two years before the expedition of Sir Walter Raleigh, an attempt for the discovery of it was made by Eerreo, Governor of Trinidad, who had obtained a patent for the purpose, from the King of Spain. In furtherance of his object, he sent two officers to explore the Oronoke, who ascended to the residence of the Charibee chief, by whom they were well received : and the document referred to, in the above letter, is an ac- , count of this expedition, prepared by one of these officers, Domingo de Vera, who styles himself "Master of the Camp, and General for Antonio de Berreo, Governor General for our Lord the King — between the Oronoke and Amazon, and the Island of Trinidad." He commences by stating, that on landing upon the Main, on the 23rd of April, 1593, he performed various ceremonies for taking possession of for Berreo, which claim of possession was afterward renewed before the Charibee chief. To this, Raleigh, in his remarks prefixed to these letters, observes : iS Although the Span- iards seem to glory much in the formal possession taken before Morequito, (the Charibee chief,) it appears that after they were gone out of their country, the Indians there, having further consideration of the matter, having known and heard of their former cruelties upon the Borderers, and other of the Indians elsewhere, at their next coming, being ton of them employed, for a further discovery, they were provided to receive and entertain them in another manner of sort than they had done before — that is, they slew and buried them in the country they so much sought. Other possession they have not had since. Neither do the Indians mean, as they protest, to give them any other." The master of the camp, having stated his taking possession of the country, goes on to say: "The first of May, they prosecuted the said discovery to the town of Carapana, the first chief on the river. We thence passed to the town of Toroco, whose principal is Topiawari, uncle of Morequito, being five leagues farther within the land than the first nation, and well inhabited. The fourth of May, we came to a province about five leagues thence, of all sides inhabited with much people. The principal of this people came and met us in a peaceable man- ner; and he was called Revato. He brought us to a very large house, where he entertained us well, and gave us much gold ; and the interpreters asking from whence that gold was, he answered, ' From a province not passing a day's jour- ney off', where there are so many Indians as would shadow the sun, and so much gold, as all yonder plain will not contain it ; in which country, when they enter unto their borracheras, or drunken feasts, they take of the said gold, in dus( 3 and anoint themselves all over therewith, to make the braver show, and to the end the gold may cover them, they anoint their bodies with stamped herbs of a gluey sub- stance.' And they have war with those Indians. They promised us that, if we would go in unto them, they would aid us; but they were such infinite numbers, as no doubt they would kill us. And being asked how they got the same gold, we were told they went to a certain down or place, and pulled and digged up the grass by the root, which done, they took of the earth, putting it in great buckets, which they carried to wash at the river, and that which came in powder, they kept for their borracheras, or drunken feasts, and that which was a piece, they wrought into eagles. The eighth of May we went from thence, and marched about five leagues. At the foot of a hill, we found a principal, called Arataco, with three thousand Indians, men and women, all in peace, and with much vict- ual, as hens and venison, in great abundance, and many sorts of wines. He entreated us to go to his house, and rest that night in his town, being of five hun- dred houses. The interpreter asked where he had those hens. He said they APPENDIX. 149 were brought from a mountain, not passing a quarter of a league thence, where were many Indians, yea, so many as the grass on the ground ; and if we would have any we should send them jewsharps, for they would give for every one two hens. We took an Indian, and gave him five hundred harps ; the hens were so many that he brought as were not to be numbered. We said we would go thither. They told us they were now in their borracheras, or drunken feasts. We asked how they made these borracheras. He said they had many eagles of gold hanging on their breasts, pearls in their ears, and that they danced being all covered zoith gold, The Indian said unto us, if we would see them we should give him some hatchets. The master of the camp gave him one hatchet ; he brought us an eagle that weighed twenty-seven pounds of gold The eleventh day of May, we went about seven leagues from thence, to a province where we found a great company of Indians, apparelled. They told us that, if we came to fight, they would fill up those plains with Indians to fight with us ; but if we came in peace, we should enter, and be well entertained of them, because they had a great desire to see. Christians. And then they told us of all the riches that were. I do not here set it down, because there is no place for it ; but it shall appear by the information that goeth to his majesty." The letter of George Burien Britton, from the said Canaries, unto his cousin, a Frenchman dwelling at St. Lucar, concerning El Dorado. " Sir, and my very good cousin : there came of late, certain letters from a new discovered country, not far from Trinidado, which they write hath gold in great abundance ; the news seemeth to be very certain, because it passeth for good among the best of this city. Part of the information of the discovery that went to his majesty, goeth inclosed in Alonzo's letters. It is a thing worth the seeing." Report of Domingo Martinez, of Jamaica, concerning El Dorado. " He saith, that in 1593, being at Carthagena, there was a general report of a late discovery called Nuevo Dorado, and that a little before his coming thither, there came a frigate from the said Dorado, bringing in it a portraiture of a giant, all of gold, of weight forty-seven quintals, which the Indians there held for their idol." The Report of a Frenchman, called Bourtillier, of Sherbrooke, concerning Trinidad and Dorado. " He saith, being at Trinidad, in 1591, he had of an Indian there a piece of gold, of a quarter of a pound, in exchange of a knife. The said Indian told him he had it at the head of that River, which cometh to Paracoa in Trinidad ; and that, within the River of Oronoke, it was in great abundance, &c." Reports of certain merchants of Rio de Hacha, concerning El Nuevo Dorado. " They said that Nuevo Reyno yieldeth very many gold mines, and wonderful rich ; but lately was discovered a certain province, so rich in gold, as the report thereof may seem incredible. It is there in such abundance, and is called El Nuevo Dorado. Antonio de Berreo made the said discovery." The Report of a Spaniard, Captain with Berreo in the discovery of El Nuevo Dorado. *' That the information sent to the King was, in every point truly said ; that the river Oronoke hath seven mouths or outlets to the sea, called Las Siete Bocas de Dragon ; that the said River runneth far into the land, in many places very broad ; that Antonio de Berreo lay at Trinidad, making head to go and conquer and peo- ple the said Dorado.* * Cayley's Life of Raleigh, Appendix, No. DC APPENDIX NO. III. p For a more full account of the bravery and warlike character of the Charibees, I extract the following passage from my History of this nation : i " It is unqestionable, that the wives of the Charibees engaged in the warlike en- counters of their nation, and that they were trained to possess a physical activity and energy, and a hardihood of character, analogous to the character of their hus- bands. # " Of the Cumanians, (a branch of this nation,) Martyr remarks, that the females run, swim, and leap as the men. On the coast of Paria, (which also was inhabited by some of this nation,) Ogilby observes, the women oftentimes, without any boat or floating pieces of timber, venture two or three leagues into the sea. They follow the men in wars, and carry their provisions and weapons, to which labor they are so much used, that they will bear on their shoulders, fifty leagues together, such luggage as three Spaniards are scarce able to lift from the ground."* 1 The ordeal which the father underwent on the birth of his sons, from a strange idea that his patient endurance of it would impart bravery to them, was sometimes practiced in the case of the daughters. And Lafitan says, that among the Chari- bees in Brazil, when females arrived at the age of about fourteen, they were them- selves to undergo an ordeal, which he thus describes : Their hair is first cut close to the head or burnt off. They are then made to stand on a flat stone, and the of- ficiator, with the tooth of the Agoutis, makes two gashes down their back from each shoulder obliquely in the form of a cross, and several other cuts, which causes the blood to flow, and, though the pain they feel they manifest by the grinding of their teeth, and their contortions of body, not a single sigh escapes them. The gashes are then rubbed with the ashes of a wild gourd, which greatly aggravates the pain, and renders them ineffaceable. Then their arms are tied close to the body, which is bound round with cotton cord, and round their necks are hung the teeth of a certain animal, and they are placed in a hamack, in which they are so enveloped as not to be seen. In this situation they remain three days without be- ing allowed to converse with any one, and keeping a very strict fast, without eat- ing or drinking the least of anything. At the end of the three days they are to be taken from the hamack, and placed upon the flat stone, being not yet allowed to touch the earth, and then unbound. After which they are returned to the ham- ack, to remain in it a month, living only on some uncooked roots, a little farina, (the meal of manioc,) and water, and wholly prohibited from eating anything else. At the end of the month, they are taken from the hamack, and cut over the whole body, from head to foot, in a more cruel manner than in the first operation. They are then placed in the hamack, to remain there a second month and undergo another abstinence, not quite so rigorous as the last ; but are not allowed, during I * Ogilby's Hist, of America. APPENDIX, 151 this time, to leave the hamack a moment, nor converse with any one ; and are obliged to be occupied continually with picking and spinning of cotton. At the expiration of the second month, they are rubbed over the whole body with a black dye, and commence again to work in their fields.* That the wives of the Charibees assisted their husbands in their wars, and fought like them, there is no want of evidence. Of the Islanders Martyr remarks : "Both sexes possess great power from the use of the bow and poisoned arrows. When their husbands are at any time absent from their homes, they protect themselves from injurious aggressions in a manly manner.f " And Columbus, on his discovery of the Antilles, witnessed several instances of female bravery. In the account given in the first chapter of his progress through these islands, I have observed that on his second voyage one of his boats had an encounter at St. Croix with a canoe of the Charibees, in which were four men and as many women, which were taken. Herrera adds the following particulars : " As the canoe approached, both men and women discharged their arrows with astonishing rapidity ; and before the Spaniards could cover themselves with their shields, one of the men was killed by an arrow shot by a woman, who wounded another severely. One of the females shot with such force as to pierce through a target. There was a female in the canoe, who, from the respect paid to her, seemed to be a queen. She was accom- panied by a son, a youth of a robust form and terrific look. The Spaniards then ran their boat forcibly against the canoe, and overset it. But the Indian women, as well as the men, while swimming in the water, with not less activity sent forth their darts against the Spaniards ; and collecting on a covered rock, strenuously defended themselves, but were at length taken, one being killed. "J " In this skir- mish the Indians used poisoned arrows, and one of the Spaniards died within a few days, of a wound he had received from a female warrior.^" p On the second visit made by Columbus to Guadaloupe, on his return to Spain, on his sending a boat ashore, before reaching it, the men beheld the sight of an as- semblage of many females on the beach, coming forward with bows and arrows to hinder their landing. The boat not being able to land, as the sea ran hio-h, he sent two of the Indians he had on board swimming, to inform them they came only for provisions ; on which they replied that they should go to the other side of the Island, where their husbands were. The ships proceeding thither, a great multi- tude of men appeared, shooting great flights of arrows ; and the boats firing on them and wounding some, they fled to the mountains. Columbus sent on shore a party of men who brought away, as captives, forty females and three boys. One of the females, who was the wife of the Cacique, possessed so much strength and agility as almost to resist the attempts of the Spaniards to take her. One of the men, a native of the Canaries, extremely swift of foot, had great difficulty in overtaking her, for she ran like a stag ; and when she perceived she was likely to be over- taken, she turned, clasped him in her arms, and would have strangled him had not others come to his assistance." || The Charibees of the Continent possess the same character. (I omit several instances which I have recited in the present volume, and add only the following:) Herrera relates that in the expedition made in 1532, by De Heredia, for the con- quest of Caramari,1T (now Carthagena,) the inhabitants of which considered them- selves descended from the Charibees, in an engagement which he had with some Indians, in which they fought furiously with poisoned arrows, and clubs of hard wood, " the maidens fought as well as the men." And " there was one," says a • * Laptan, vo». 2, p. 10. t Martyr, Dec. 1. t Herrera, Dec. 1, book 2, chap. vii. § Ining's Columbus, book 6, cliap. iii. !l Herrera, Dec. 1, boon 3, chap. i. \ Dec. 3. 152 APPENDIX. writer, quoted by Purchas, " who, before they could take her, being about eighteen years old, slew with her bow eight Spaniards."* But this trait is not peculiar to the females of the Charibees. Instances of it are met with, also, among other American Indians. "Before the time of the lucas," observes Herrera, " the inhabitants of Peru went naked, wandered about in docks like the Arabs, without houses or settled dwellings, except only some caves, and some made fortresses on the highest hills, where they settled, to fight with their neighbors for the tilled lands. At that time a very brave man, called Zapona, started up in the province of Callao, who subdued a considerable part of it ; and ihe Indians say the war was carried on very resolutely by some women, who, for their defence, made several walls of dry stone, trenches and forts, of which there are some remains to be seen at this day. These women having done wonders, were at last vanquished by Zapona, and their name forgotten." This trait is also found among the females of some North American Indians. "The Choctaws," observes Bossu, "love war and are acquainted with stratagems, &c. Some of their women are so fond of their husbands as to go to the wars with them. They stand by their sides in the battle, with a quiver full of arrows, &nd encourage them, telling them they ought not to fear their enemies, but die as true men."f In the narrative of De Soto's expedition to Florida, we have also a particular account of the martial bravery of some Indian women. He had a se- jious encounter with some Indians at a place he calls Mauville, (now Mobile,) which lasted seven hours ; but they seeing the number of men they had lost, while Ihe fire of their enemies increased, implored the aid of the women, and called on them to revenge the death of the many brave Indians who had been killed. All this time some women were already fighting at the side of their husbands, but as soon as they were thus called on, they all ran en masse, some with bows and ar- rows, others with swords, halberds and lances which the Spaniards had left in the street, which they adroitly made use of. They all placed themselves in front of their husbands, and full of rage and hatred braved the danger and exhibited a cour- age beyond their sex. But as soon as the Spainiards saw they fought only against women, and that they sought rather to die than be conquered, they spared them, not even wounding one.J De Soto afterward attacked another village, called Tula, where a similar scene occurred. The inhabitants, who were unapprised of his ap- proach, took up arms as soon as they saw the Spaniards, sallied out against them, and were seconded by many women, who fought very valiantly. The Spaniards broke through them and pushed on to the town, when the combat became warmer, for the Indians and their wives fought in despair, and showed they preferred death to slavery. It becoming late, De Soto sounded a retreat and returned to camp, much surprised at the courage of the Indians, and principally of their wives, who cornbatted with more obstinacy than the men.§ But this was also the character of the females of the Scythians, between whom and the Charibees so many strong points of resemblance have been shown to exist. The Scythians, says Justin, have been as much distinguished by the valor of their females as by the victories of their warriors, and when the great exploits performed by their men and by their women are considered, it is uncertain which sex among them was most conspicuous. The wives of the Sarmatians, (Sauromats) who sprung from the Scythians, observes Herodotus, pursue the chase on horse- back, sometimes with, and sometimes without their husbands, and dressed in the * Purchas, book 5, chap i. t Hist. Louisiana, vol. 1. p. 291 I Garcillaso, Hist. Conquest of Florida, by De Soto, vol. 2. p. 326. V Garciltuso, Hist. Conquest of Flo! da by De Soto, vol". 2. pp. 406-8. APPENDIX 153 habits of men, frequently engage in battle. With respect to their institutions of marriage, no female is permitted to marry, until she first shall have killed an enemy. They married several wives, and carried them with them to war, and even to battle. The same character belonged to the wives of the Tartars, who were another branch of the same nation. " The Tartars of Great Bucharia," says Abul Ghazi, " pride themselves on being the most robust and brave of all the Tartars. The women of this country, also, value themselves for an approved bravery. They often go to war with their husbands, and do not fear to come to blows upon occasions." " The Tangasi are good horsemen, and their wives and daughters ride as well as themselves. They never go out without being well armed, having also the reputation of managing their arms very dexterously." APPENDIX NO. IV. Having closed my examination of the different relations made by Sir Walter- Raleigh in the Narrative of his expedition to Guyana, I cannot avoid referring to the noble and elevated sentiments which he possessed, and are exhibited in his writings, as affording the strongest evidence that he was incapable of the deception and fabrication imputed to him by his enemies in that publication ; and for this purpose, I extract from his Biography by Mr. Cayley two pieces : First, a letter which he wrote to Prince Henry, the son of King James, and heir-apparent to the throne,* who in his adversity proved his steady friend ; and which I select with more pleasure, as affording also a specimen of his literary ability, as it is believed that for vigor of style, elegance of language, and elevation of sentiment, few com- positions in the English language surpass it. The other piece is entitled " Instruc- tions to his Son and to posterity ;"f in perusing which, we cannot but admire the diversity of talent which he exhibited. We behold him, at one time, seizing with enthusiasm the bold and magnificent project of achieving the conquest of a rich and splendid empire in a distant country — an enterprise attended with the utmost risk and difficulty : at another, studying the philosophy of ordinary life, and, with the sagacity of a Bacon or a Franklin, laying down rules to regulate the conduct of man in all his private relations and daily intercourse. SIR WALTER RALEIGH TO PRINCE HENRY. " May it please youe Highness : "The following sheets are addressed to your highness, from a man who values his liberty and a very small fortune, in a remote part of this island, under the present constitution, above all the riches and honors that he could anywhere en- joy under any other establishment. You see, sir, the doctrines that are lately come into the world, and how far the phrase has obtained of calling your royal father God's vicegerent ; which ill men have turned both to the dishonor of God, and the impeachment of his majesty's goodness. They adjoin the vicegerency to the idea of being all-powerful, and not to that of being all-good. His majesty's wisdom, it is to be hoped, will save him from the snare that may lie under such gross adulations ; but your youth, and the thirst of praise which I have observed in you, may possibly mislead you to hearken to these charmers, who would conduct your noble nature into tyranny. Be careful, oh ! my prince ; hear them not, fly from their deceits. You are in the succession to a throne from whence no evil can be imputed to you, but all good must be conveyed by you. Your father is called the vicegerent of Heaven. Shall man have authority from the Fountain of good to do * Pace 49. T Page 216. APPENDIX. 155 evil ? No, ray prince, let mean and degenerate spirits, which want benevolence, suppose their power, impaired by a disability of doing injuries. If want of power to do ill be an incapacity in a prince, with reverence be it spoken, it is an incapa- city he has in common with the Deity. " Let me not doubt, but all plans which do not carry in them the mutual hap- piness of prince and people, will appear as absurd to your great understanding, as disagreeable to your noble nature. " Exert yourself, oh, generous prince, against such sycophants, in the glorious cause of liberty ; and assume an ambition worthy of you, to secure your fellow- creatures from slavery ; from a condition as much below that of brutes, as to act without reason is less miserable than to act against it. Preserve to your future subjects the divine right of being free-agents, and to your own royal house the divine right of being their benefactors. Believe me, my prince, there is no other right can flow from God. While your highness is forming yourself for a throne, consider the laws as so many common-places in your study of the science of gov- ernment. When you mean nothing but justice, they are an ease and help to you. This way of thinking, is what gave men the glorious appellatives of deliverers and fathers of their country. This made the sight of them rouse their beholders into acclamations, and made mankind incapable of bearing their very appearance with- out applauding it as a benefit. Consider the inexpressible advantages which will ever attend your highness, while you make the power of rendering men happy the measure of your actions. While this is your impulse, how easily will that power be extended ! The glance of your eye will give gladness, and your every sentence have the force of a bounty. Whatever some men would insinuate, you have lost your subject when you have lost his inclination ; you are to preside over the minds, not the bodies, of men. The soul is the essence of a man ; and you cannot have the true man against his inclination. Choose, therefore, to be the king or the conqueror of your people ; it may be submission, but it cannot be obedience, that is passive. " I am, sir, " Your highness's most faithful servant, " WALTER RALEIGH. " London, August 12, 1611." SIR WALTER RALEIGH'S INSTRUCTIONS TO HIS SON, AND TO POSTERITY CHOICE OF FRIENDS. ' There is nothing more becoming any wise man, than to make choice of friends ; for by them thou sbalt be judged what thou art. Let them, therefore, be wise and virtuous, and none of those that follow thee for gain. But make election rather of thy betters than thy inferiors, shunning always such as are poor and needy. For if thou givest twenty gifts, and refuse to do the like but once, all that thou hast done will be lost, and such men will become thy mortal enemies. Take also special care, that thou never trust any friend or servant, with any matter that may endanger thine estate ; for so shalt thou make thyself a bond-slave to him that thou trustest, and leave thyself alway to his mercy. And, be sure of this tnou shalt never find a friend in thy young years, whose conditions and qualities will please thee after thou comest to more discretion and judgment ; and then all thou givest is lost, and all wherein thou shalt trust such a one -will be discovered. Such, therefore, as are thy inferiors, will follow thee but to eat thee out, and when thou leavest to feed them, they will hate thee ; and such kind of men, if thou pre- serve thy estate, will alway be had. And if thy friends be of better quality than thyself, thou mayest be sure of two things ; the first, that they will be more careful to keep thy counsel, because they have more to lose than thou hast ; the second, they will esteem thee for thyself, and not for that which thou dost possess. But if thou be subject to any great vanity or ill, (from which I hope God will bless thee,) then therein trust no man ; for every man's folly ought to be his greatest secret. And although I persuade thee to associate thyself with thy betters, or at least with thy peers, yet remember alway, that thou venture not thy estate with any of those great ones that shall at- tempt unlawful things, for such labor for themselves and not for thee ; thou shalt be sure to part with them in the danger, but not in the honor ; and to venture a sure estate in present, in hope of a better in future, is mere madness. And great men forget such as have done them service, when they have obtained what they would ; and will rather hate thee for saying thou hast been a means of their ad- vancement, than acknowledge it. I could give thee a thousand examples, and I myself know it and have tasted it in all the course of my life. When thou shalt read and observe the stories of all nations, thou shalt find innumerable examples of the like. Let thy love, there- fore, be to the best, so long as they do well ; but take heed that thou love God, thy country, thy prince, and thine own estate before all others. For the fancies of men change, and he that loves to-day, hateth to-morrow ; but let reason be thy school-mistress, which shall ever guide thee aright." APPENDIX. 157 CHOICE OF A WIFE. The next and greatest care ought to be in the choice of a wife. And the only danger therein, is beauty, by which all men in all ages, wise and foolish, have been betrayed. And though I know it vain to use reasons or arguments to dissuade thee from being captivated therewith, there being few or none that ever resisted that witchery ; yet I cannot omit to warn thee, as of other things which may be thy ruin and destruction. For the present time, it is true, that every man prefers his fantasy in that appetite before all other worldly desires ; leaving the care of honor, credit, and safety, in respect thereof. But remember, that though these affections do not last, yet the bond of marriage dureth to the end of thy life ; and, therefore, better to be borne withal in a mistress, than in a wife. For when thy humor shall change, thou art yet free to choose again, (if thou give thyself that vain liberty.) Remember, secondly, that if thou marry for beauty, thou bind- est thyself all thy life for that, which perchance will never last nor please thee one year ; and when thou hast it, it will be to thee of no price at all, for the desire dieth when it is attained, and the affection perisheth when it is satisfied. Re- member, when thou wert a sucking child, that then thou didst love thy nurse, and that thou wert fond of her ; after a while thou didst love thy dry nurse, and didst forget the other ; after that thou didst also despise her : so will it be with thee in thy liking in elder years. ! And, therefore, though thou canst not forbear to love, yet forbear to link; after a while thou shalt find an alteration in thyself, and see another far more pleasing than the first, second, or third love. Yet I wish thee, above all the rest, have a care thou dost not marry an uncomely woman for any respect ; for come- liness in children is riches, if nothing else be left them. And if thou have care for thy races of horses and other beasts, value the shape and comeliness of thy children before alliances or riches. Have care therefore both together ; for if thou have a fair wife, and a poor one, if thine own estate be not great, assure V-hy- eelf that love abideth not with want ; for she is the companion of plenty and honor. For I never yet knew a poor woman exceeding fair, that was not made dishonest by one or other in the end. This Bathsheba taught her son Solomon, favor is deceitful and beauty is vanity ; she saith farther, that a icise wo?nan over- seeth the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness. Have therefore evermore care, that thou be beloved of thy wife, rather than thyself besotted on her ; and thou shalt judge of her love by these two observa- tions. First, if thou perceive she have a care of thy estate, and exercise herself therein ; the other, if she study to please thee, and be sweet unto thee, in conver- sation without thy instruction, for love needs no teaching nor precept. On the other side, be not sour or stern to thy wife ; for cruelty engendereth no other thing than hatred. Let her have equal part of thy estate while thou livest, if thou find her sparing and honest ; but what thou givest after thy death, remember that thou givest it to a stranger, and most times to an enemy. For he that shall marry thy wife, will despise thee, thy memory, and thine ; and shall possess the quiet of thy labors, the fruit which thou hast planted, enjoy thy love, and spend with joy and ease what thou hast spared and gotten with care and travail. Yet always remember, that thou leave not thy wife to be a shame unto thee after thou art dead, but that she may live according to thy estate ; especially if thou hast lew children, and them provided for. But howsoever it be, or whatsoever thou find, leave thy wife no more than of necessity thou must, but only during her 153 APPENDIX. widowhood. For if she love again, let her not enjoy her second love in the same bed wherein she loved thee, nor fly to future pleasures with those feathers which death hath pulled from thy wings ; but leave thy estate to thy house and children, in which thou livedst upon earth while it lasted. To conclude ; wives were or- dained to continue the generation of men, not to transfer them, and diminish them ; either in continuance or ability ; and therefore thy house and estate, which liveth in thy son, and not in thy wife, is to be preferred. Let thy time of marriage be in thy young and strong years ; for believe it, ever the young wife betrayeth the old husband, and she that had thee not in thy flower will despise thee in thy fall, and thou shalt be unto her but a captivity and sorrow. Thy best time will be toward thirty. For as the younger times are un- fit, either to choose or to govern a wife and family, so if thou stay long, thou shalt hardly see the education of thy children, which being left to strangers, are in effect lost. And better were it to be unborn, than ill-bred ; for thereby thy posterity shall either perish, or remain a shame to thy name and family. Furthermore, if it be late ere thou take a wife, thou shalt spend thy prime and summer of thy life with harlots, destroy thy health, impoverish thy estate, and endanger thy life ; and be sure of this, that how many mistresses soever thou hast, so many enemies thou ahalt purchase to thyself ; for there never was any such affection, which ended not in hatred or disdain. Remember the saying of Solomon, there is a way which seemeth right to a man, but the issues thereof are the wages of death ; for howsoever a lewd woman please thee for a time, thou wait hate her in the end, and she will study to destroy thee. If thou canst not abstain from them in thy vain and un- bridled times, yet remember that thou sowest on the sands, and dost mingle thy vital blood with corruption, and purchasest diseases, repentance, and hatred only. Bestow, therefore, thy youth so, that thou mayst have comfort to remember it when it hath forsaken thee, and not sigh and grieve at the account thereof. While thou art young thou wilt think it will never have an end ; but behold, the longest day hath its evening, and that thou shalt enjoy it but once, that it never turns again. Use it therefore as the spring-time, which soon departeth, and wherein thou oughtest to plant and sow all provisions for a long and happy life. FLATTERERS. Take care thou be not made a fool by flatterers, for even the wisest men are abused by these. Know, therefore, that flatterers are the worst kind of traitors ; for they will strengthen thy imperfection, encourage thee in all evils, correct thee in nothing, but so shadow and paint all thy vices and follies, as thou shalt never, by their will discern evil from good, or vice from virtue. And because all men are apt to flatter themselves, to entertain the additions of other men's praises is most perilous. Do not therefore praise thyself, except thou wilt be counted a vain-glorious fool, neither take delight in the praises of other men, except thou deserve it, and receive it from such as are Avorthy and honest, and will withal warn thee of thy faults ; for flatterers have never any virtue, they are base, creep- ing, cowardly persons. A flatterer is said to be a beast that biteth smiling ; it is said by Isaiah in this manner, my people, they that praise thee, seduce thee and dis- order the paths of thy feet. And David desired God to cut out the tongue of a flat- terer. But it is hard to know them from friends, they are so obsequious, and full of protestations ; for a wolf resembles a dog, so doth a flatterer a friend. A flat- terer is compared to an ape, who, because she cannot defend the house like a dog, APPENDIX. 159 labor as an ox, or bear burdens as a horse, doth therefore yet play tricks and pxo- voke laughter. Thou mayst be sure that he that will in private tell thee thy faults, is thy friend, for he adventures thy mislike, and doth hazard thy hatred for there are few men that can endure it, every man, for the most part, delighting in self-praise, which is one of the most universal follies which bewitcheth mankind. QUARRELS. , Be careful to avoid public disputations at feasts, or at tables among choleric or quarrelsome persons ; and eschew evermore to be acquaintedj or familiar with ruffians. For thou shalt be in as much danger in contending with a brawler in a private quarrel as in a battle, wherein thou mayst get honor to thyself, and safety to thy prince and country. But if thou be once engaged, carry thyself bravely, that they may fear thee after. To shun therefore private fight, be well advised in thy words and behaviour ; for honor and shame is in the talk, and the tongue of a man causeth him to fall. Jest not openly at those that are simple, but remember how much thou art bound to God, who hath made thee wiser. Defame not any woman publicly, though thou know her to be evil ; for those that are faulty, cannot endure to be taxed, but will seek to be avenged of thee, and those that are not guilty, cannot endure unjust reproach. And as there is nothing more shameful and dishonest, than to do wrong, so truth itself cutteth his throat that carrieth her publicly in every place. Remember the divine saying, he tliat keepeth his mouth, keepeth his life. Do therefore right to all men, where it may profit them, and thou shalt thereby get much love ; and forbear to speak evil things of men, though it be true, (if thou be net constrained,) and thereby thou shalt avoid malice and revenge. Do not accuse any man of any crime, if it be not to save thyself, thy prince, or country ; for there is nothing more dishonorable (next to treason itself,) than to be an accuser. Notwithstanding, I would not have thee, for any respect, lose thy reputation, or endure public disgrace ; for better it were not to live than to live a coward, if the offence proceed not from thyself. If it do, it shall be better to compound it upon good terms, than to hazard thyself; for if thou overcome, thou art under the cruelty of the law ; if thou art overcome, thou art dead or dis- honored. If thou therefore contend, or discourse in argument, let it be with wise and sober men, of whom thou must learn by reasoning, and not with ignorant per- sons ; for thou shalt thereby instruct those that will not thank thee, and utter what they have learned from thee for their own ; but if thou know more than ether men, utter it when it may do thee honor, and not in assemblies of ignorant and common persons. Speaking much, also, is a sign of vanity ; for he that is lavish in words, is a niggard in deeds ; and, as Solomon saith, (he mouth of a wise man is in his heart, the lieart of a fool is in his mouth, because what he knoweth, or thinkelh, he utlereih. And by thy words and discourses men will judge thee. For as Socrates saith, such as thy toords are, such will thy affections be esteemed ; and such will thy deeds as thy affections, and such thy life as thy deeds. Therefore be advised what thou dost discourse of, and what thou maintainest ; whether touching religion, state, or vanity ; for if thou err in the first, thou shalt be accounted profane ; if in the second, dangerous ; if in the third, indiscreet and foolish. He that cannot refrain from much speaking, is like a city without walls, and less pains in the world a man cannot take, than to hold his tongue ; therefore, if thou observest this rule in 160 APPENDIX all assemblies, thou shalt seldom err. Restrain thy choler, hearken much, and speak little ; for the tongue is the instrument of the greatest good, and greatest evil that is done in the world. According to Solomon, life and death are in the power of the tongue; and as Eu- ripides truly affirmeth, every unbridled tongue in the end shall find itself unfortunate ; for in all that ever I observed in the course of worldly things, I ever found that men's fortunes are oftener made by their tongues than by their virtues, and more men's fortunes overthrown thereby also, than by their vices. And to conclude, all quarrels, mischief, hatred, and destruction, arise from unadvised speech ; and in much speech there are many errors, out of which thy enemies shall ever take the most dangerous advantage. And as thou shalt be happy, if thou thyself ob- serve these things, so shall it be most profitable for thee to avoid their companies that err in that kind, and not to hearken to tale-bearers, to inquisitive persons, and such as busy themselves with other men's estates ; that creep into houses as spies, to learn news which concerns them not ; for, assure thyself, such persons are most base and unworthy, and I never knew any of them prosper or respected among worthy or wise men. .' Take heed, also, that thou be not, found a liar ; for a lying spirit is hateful both to God and man. A liar is commonly a coward ; for he dares not avow truth. A liar is trusted of no man ; he can have no credit, neither in public nor private ; and if there were no more arguments than this, know that our Lord in St. John saith, that it is a vice proper to Satan, lying being opposite to the nature of God, which consisteth in truth ; and the gain of lying is nothing else, but not to be trusted of any, nor to be believed when we say the truth. It is said in the Pro- verbs, that God hateth false lips ; and he that speaketh lies shall perish. Thus thou mayst see and find in all the books of God, how odious and contrary to God a liar is ; and for the world, believe it, that it never did any man good, except in the ex- tremity of saving life ; for a liar is a base, unworthy, and cowardly spirit. PRESERVATION OF ESTATE. Among all other things of the world, take care of thy estate ; which thou shalt ever preserve, if thou observe three things. First, that thou know what thou hast, what everything is worth that thou hast, and to see that thou art not wasted by thy servants and officers. The second is, that thou never spend anything before thou have it ; for borrowing is the canker and death of every man's estate. The third is, that thou suffer not thyself to be wounded for other men's faults, and scourged for other men's offences, which is, the surety for another; for thereby millions of men have been beggared and destroyed, paying the reckoning of other men's riot, and the charge of other men's folly and prodigality. If thou smart, smart for thine own sins ; and above all things, be not made an ass to carry the burdens of other men. If any friend desire thee to be his security, give him a part of what thou hast to spare ; if he press thee farther, he is not thy friend at all ; for friendship rather chooseth harm to itself, than offereth it. If thou be bound for a stranger, thou art a fool ; if for a merchant, thou puttest thy estate to learn to swim ; if for a church- man, he hath no inheritance ; if for a lawyer, he will find an evasion by a syllable or word, to abuse thee ; if for a poor man, thou must pay it thyself; if for a rich man, it need not. Therefore from suryteship, as from a man-slayer, or enchanter, bless thyself; for the best profit and return will be this, that if thou force him for APPENDIX. 161 whom thou art bound, to pay it himself, he will become thy enemy ; if thou use + o pay it thyself, thou wilt be a beggar ; and believe thy father in this, and print it in thy thought, that what virtue soever thou hast, be it never so manifold, if thou be poor withal, thou and thy qualities shall be despised. Beside, poverty is oft- times sent as a curse of God ; it is a shame among men, an imprisonment of the mind, a vexation of every worthy spirit ; thou shalt neither help thyself nor others, thou shalt drown thee in all thy virtues, having no means to show them ; thou shalt be a burden, and an eye-sore to thy friends, every man will fear thy company ; thou shalt be driven basely to beg and depend on others, to natter unworthy men, to make dishonest shifts ; and to conclude, poverty provokes a man to do infamous and detested deeds. Let not vanity therefore, or persuasion, draw thee to that worst of worldly miseries. If thou be rich, it will give thee pleasure in health, comfort in sickness, keep thy mind and body free, save thee from many perils, relieve thee in thy elder- years, relieve the poor and thy honest friends, and give means to thy posterity to live, and defend themselves and thine own fame. Where it is said in the Pro- verbs, that he shall be sore vexed that is surety for a strange?; and he that hateth suretyship, is sure, it is farther said, the poor is hated even of his own neighbor, but the rich-have many friends. Lend not to him that is mightier than thyself, for if thou lendest him, count it but lost. Be not surety above thy power, for if thou be surety, think to pay it. SERVANTS. Let thy servants be such as thou mayst command, and entertain none about thee but yeomen, to whom thou givest wages ; for those that will serve thee without, thy hire, will cost thee treble as much as they that know thy fare. If thou trust any servant with thy purse, be sure thou take his account ere thou sleep ; for if thou put it off, thou wilt then afterward for tediousness neglect it. I myself, have therefore lost more than I am worth. And whatsoever thy servant gaineth thereby, he will never thank thee, but laugh thy simplicity to scorn ; and beside, 'tis the way to make thy servants thieves, who else would be honest. BRAVE RAGS. Exceed not in the humor of rags and bravery, for these will soon wear out of fashion ; but money in thy purse will ever be in fashion ; and no man is esteemed for gay garments, but by fools and women. RICHES. On the other side, take heed that thou seek not riches basely, nor attain them by evil means ; destroy no man for his wealth, nor take anything from the poor ; for the cry and complaint thereof will pierce the heavens. And it is most detest- able before God, and most dishonorable before worthy men, to wrest anything from the needy and laboring soul. God will never prosper thee in aught, if thou offend therein. But use thy poor neighbors and tenants well, pine not them and their children to add superfluity and needless expenses to thyself. He that hath pity 11 162 APPENDIX. on another man's sorrow, shall be free from it himself; and he that delighteth in, and scorneth the misery of another, shall one time or other fall into it himself. Remember this precept, he that hath mercy on the poor lendeth unto the Lord, and tlie Lord will recompense him what he hath given. I do not understand those for poor who are vagabonds and beggars, but those that labor to live, such as are old and cannot travail, such poor widows and fatherless children, as are ordered to be relieved, and the poor tenants that travail to pay their rents, and are driven to pov- erty by mischance, and not by riot or careless expenses ; on such have thou com- passion, and God will bless thee for it. Make not the hungry soul sorrowful, defer not thy gift to the needy ; for if he curse thee, in the bitterness of his soul, his prayer shall be heard of him that made him. WINE. Take especial care that thou delight not in wine, for there never was any man that came to honor or preferment that loved it ; for it transformeth a man into a beast, decayeth health, poisoneth the breath, destroyeth natural heat, brings a man's stomach to an artificial heat, deformeth the face, rotteth the teeth, and, to conclude, maketh a man contemptible, soon old, and despised of all wise and worthy men, hated in thy servants, in thyself and companions ; for it is a bewitch- ing and infectious vice. And, remember my words, that it were better for a man to be subject to any vice than to it ; for all other vanities and sins are recovered, but a drunkard will never shake off the delight of beastliness ; for the longer it possesseth a man, the more he will delight in it, and the older he groweth, the more he shall be subject to it ; for it dulleth the spirits, and destroyeth the body, as ivy doth the old tree, or as the worm that engendereth in the kernel of the nut. Take heed, therefore, that such a cureless canker pass not thy youth, nor such a beastly infection thy old age ; for then shall all thy life be but as the life of a beast, and after thy death, thou shalt only leave a shameful infamy to thy posterity, who shall study to forget that such a one was their father. Anacharsis saith, the first draught servethfor health, the second for pleasure, the third for shame, the fourth for madness ; but in youth there is not so much as one draught permitted, for it putteth fire to fire, and wasteth the natural heat and seed of generation. And, therefore, except thou desire to hasten thine end, take this for a general rule, that thou never add any artificial heat to thy body, by wine or spice, until thou find that time hath decayed thy natural heat ; and the sooner thou beginnest to help nature, the sooner she will forsake thee, and trust altogether to art. Who have misfortune, saith Solomon, who have sorrow and grief, who have trouble without fighting, stripes without cause, andfaintness of eyes 7 even they that sit at wine, and strain themselves to empty cups. Pliny saith, wine maketh the hand quivering, the eyes watery, the night unquiet, lewd dreams, a stinking breath in the morning, and an utter forgelfulness of all things. Whosoever loveth wine, shall not be trusted of any man, for he cannot keep a secret. Wine maketh man not only a beast, but a madman ; and if thou love it, thy own wife, thy children, and thy friends, will despise thee. In drink, men care not what they say, what offence they give ; they forget comeliness, commit dis- orders, and, to conclude, offend all virtuous and honest company, and God most of all, to whom we daily pray for health, and a life free from pain ; and yet by drunkenness and gluttony, (which is the drunkenness of feeding,) we draw on, saith Hesiod, a swift, hasty, untimely, cruel, and an infamous, old age. And St APPENDIX. 163 Augustine describeth drunkenness in this manner ; ebrielas est blandus daemon, dulce venerium, suave peccatum ; quod, qui Tiabet, seipsum non habet ; quod qui facil, peccatum not facit, sed ipse est peccatum. Drunkenness is a flattering devil, a sweet poison, a pleasant sin, which whosoever hath, hath not himself, which whoso- ever doth commit, doth not commit sin, but he himself is wholly sin. Innocentius saith, quid turpius ebrioso, cui fcetor in ore, tremor in corpore, qui promit stulta, prodit occulta, cui mens alienatur, fades transformatur ? Nullum se- cretum ubi regnat ebrielas, et quid non aliud designat malum 1 Fcccundi calices quern non fecere disertum ? What is filthier than a drunken m,an, to whom there is stink in the mouth, trembling in the body ; who uttereth foolish things, and revealeth secret things ; whose mind is alienate, and face transformed ? There is no secrecy where drunkenness rules ; nay, what other mischief doth it not design ? Whom have not plentiful cups made eloquent and talking 1 When Diogenes saw a house to be sold, whereof the owner was given to drink, I thought at the last, quoth Diogenes, he would spew out a whole house ; sciebam inquit, quod domum tandem evomeret. GOD. Now, for the world, I know it too well to persuade thee to dive into the prac- tices thereof; rather stand upon thine own guard against all that tempt thee thereunto, or may practise upon thee in thy conscience, thy reputation, or thy purse ; resolve that no man is wise or safe, but he that is honest. Serve God, let him be the author of all thy actions, commend all thy endeavors to him that must either wither or prosper them, please him with prayer, lest if he frown he confound all thy fortunes and labors, like the drops of rain on the sandy ground. Let my experienced advice, a,nd fatherly instructions, sink deep into thy heart. So God direct thee in all his ways, and fill thy heart with his grace ! 11* APPENDIX NO. V. VOCABULARIES OF THE LANGUAGES OF FIVE INDIAN NATIONS IN GUYANA. Ackoway. Atoray. Macoussie. TlBBRACOTTI. G0AR»NO. Supreme Being, Maire,* Wyeemeeree, Kwareesabarote. Evil Spirit, Parai, Haiboo. Man, Warao, Yawanai, Naiboora. Woman, Woreesan Reanaro, Teera. Head, Ayupai, Reerwoo, Oopopu, Oputpa, Kwa. Eyes, Ayainu, Pandaiee, Wianu, Oneana, Moo. Moutb, Onda, Owo, Oondah, Opota, Moko. Hair, Ayunsai, Apoupi, Oupootpi, Heeoo. Hand, Yaieena, Achta, Quemya, Mamoohoo. Foot, Ochta, Pee, Oboro, Oupti, Homoo. Heart, Aiyairairee, Qpropata, Oyawa, Bone, Yapo, Ouyapti, Mohoo. Blood, Amoune, Caraieepa, Hotoo. Father, Papa, Papa, Eena. Mother, Mama, Ema, Anee. Brother, Meko, Pekii, Aka. Sister, Woreshe, Aneahou, Achu. Death, Ee-e-waireesa, Camaiepo, Fire, Achpo, Teekairee, Api, Apoto, Haikoonso. Earth, Kiapou, Obee. Water, Touna, Wonee, Ho. Sun. Waiyu, Way, Way, Yaa. Moon, Capoui, Capoui, Nyano, Waneekoo. Star, Serika, Serika, Nahamootoo Wind, Cooranahoo, Aha. Thunder, Waranabee, Woronope, Pikerara, Lightning, Capa-capai, Azanzema Ewathanie, Rain, Toona, Woonee, Cono, Conopo, Day, Taiwinkoree, Sadahana, Month, Capouee, Bodalee, Hill, Canoco, Hotakwi. Island, Paoo, Booroho. River, Toonansai, Padeekuoo Toonacashaza, Kipuag, Naba. Yellow, Teekainai, Sanaqupong, Tippara, Red, Yabeelai, Eehuwaw, Tapera, Black, Takarai, Orie, Tekewa, White, Ayeemootoa, Tinoonung, Taumutna, Tree, Etaiboo, Atamoou, Yioa, Yaa, Daoona. APPENDIX, 165 Ackoways. Atoray. M.VCOUSSIE. Tiberacotti. GUARANO. House, Yaiwootoo, Houta, Houta, Hano. Arrow, Hataboo. Bow, Woorapai, Ooboonee, Hotobooroo. Stave, Pitarie, Opito, Hamack, Outa, Koukame, Haa. Knife, Yatawari, Maree, Pawara, Marea, Maize, Eekan, Mareesee, Aanie, Kiawa, Nowcom. Plantain, Platana, Cheere, Piruru, Pratana, Sweet Potatoe, Shaak, Saa, Yaako, Orairai. Cassava, Kisa, Kirey, Tobacco, Conica, Shooma, Kawi, Kawi, Salt, Pank, Daiwoo, Pama, Wiyou, Fowl, Caroweena, Cararee, Kareweara, Karaka, Good, Wakeeton, Wak. Patie, Bad, Oreeton, Karan, Hirera, Maropema, More, Tookai, Pakeekoo, Long, Koosan, Moonarahee, Coosan, Apura, Boomoita. Wide, Saneemai, Kabooredasa. Little, Aikaiseelee, Seerde, Sameekeera. Great, Aikai, Eehailee, Ohi Kioah, Ooreeda. One, Taiwin, Bananee, Eeshaka. Two, Oko, Badaeekee, Manamoo. Three, Orowa, Osororow, Dehanamoo. Four, Okopui, Oorabookaioo Five, Taiwinyaieena, (one hand) Moohabasee. Six, Moomtaineesak Twenty, Owee Carena, (one person) Warow-eesak. (one person) * Thia word I take from the Travels of Grillett and Bechamel in Cayenne, in 1674. APPENDIX NO. VI. The following Table exhibits a comparison of the Arrowack, Atoray, Maypure, Moxos, and Quichua languages ; the words from the two first, taken from vocab- ularies I made in Guyana, one of which is in Appendix No. III., the otbers from Professor Vater's Mithridates, except where noted : Arrowack. Atoray. Maypure. Moxos. QUICHUA. Water, Wooni, Woonie, Ueni, Uni, Uni. Fire, Hekehe, Tekairee, Catti, Jucu, Heaven, Ayamooni, Eno, Anumo, Moon, Katchi, Kejape, Honey, Maba, Mapa, Mopomo, Mapa. Maize, Mareesee, Mareesee, * Muruchu. Pepper, Hachi, - tUchu. Nose, D'asseeree, t N'ukiri, t N'usiri, Eye, D'acoosee, N'uchii, Hand, D'ackaboo, Achta, N'uchabi, N'uboa, Arm, D'adinna, N'uanna, Woman, Hearo, Reanaro, * Garcillaso s Commentaries on Peru, Book 8, chap. 9, p. 318: " Their maize is of two kinds, one of which they call muruchu." f Garcillaso's Commentaries on Peru, Book 8, chap. 9, p. 318: "Their red pepper they call uchu, whicli is the same as the Spaniards call axi, (the Haytian name for it.") t The (N) prefixed to these words, and those which follow in the same lists, is probably only a pronoun, as the letter (D,) the first in the corresponding words of the Arrowack, is the pronoun di, in that language, signi- fying my." " Periodicals- j or tlie People" published by JO Winchester, 30 Ann St., New-York- THE NE*W*WORLD. A WEEKLY FAMILY JOURNAL OF JJopular Cit£ratxtr£, Btxtnit, 2lrt, anfr Ntvas THREE DOLLARS A YEAR, IN ADVANCE. PARK BENJAMIN, EDITOR; ASSISTED BY HEJNRY C. DEMING AND JAMES MACKAY. The proprietors take occasion, on the commencement of a new volume of this favorite weekly newspaper, to announce -that they have made the most extensive and expensive arrangements to improve and elevate its literary character. It will henceforth present the combined attractions of A NEWSPAPER, A MAGAZINE, AND A REVIEW. It will more closely resemble the London Spectator than any other journal, in its leading characteristics ; and it will take that high critical ground, which is now almost unoccupied in our country. It will review, fairly and faithfully, all the new books of value issued both from the English and American press, without reference to the sources from which they emanate. No puffs of any kind whatsoever will be admitted, without a mark to desig- nate them as such ; and no publishers' notices will appear, except they are paid for as advertisements. At the same timu, every work, however small, however cheap, will be duly noticed according to its desert. It is the ambition of the Editors to make a journal, upon which the public can implicitly rely for the truth, fidelity, and justice of its opinions. Mr. Park Benjamin, by whom the New World was commenced, will continue, as heretofore, its principal Editor, and he will be assisted in his labors by two highly-accomplished scholars and men of talent, viz. : Henry C. Demin», Esq., and the Rev. James Mackay. To these gentlemen the department of Reviews will be chiefly committed. Mr. Deming is no new acquaintance of 01.1 readers; he is known by many brilliant and eloquent articles signed " D," which have attracted general applause, and by his admirable translation of the " Mysteries of Paris." Mr. Mackay is an excellent classical scholar, a pure and graceful writer and highly competent as a critic. Notwithstanding this new effort to make the New World the best critical authority, and to give it a lofty tone, it will contain as many ROMANTIC ATTRACTIONS as heretofore, by presenting numerous tales and poems, and brief articles of interest. Its list of correspondents has been greatly enlarged ; and as many POPULAR AMERICAN AUTHORS will be engaged to contribute to its pages, as are now arrayed (in their lists of contributors chiefly )"in the pictorial monthly magazines. The New World is now the only publication of its kind in the country ; the only survivor of the class of large papers— the Brother Jonathan and the Boston Notion having gone back to the folio shape, and partaking more of the newspaper than the magazine. A careful compend of the Foreign and Domestic News will, however, be presented as heretofore ; thus preserving its character as THE BEST FAMILY JOURNAL IN THE UK. ON, in all respects complete. TERMS.— Three Dollars a year, in advance ; Two copies for Five Dollars. PREMIUM TO SUBSCRIBERS. "THE MYSTERIES OF PARIS," translated by H. C. Deming, Esq., and which the Boston Atlas pro- nonnces to be "the book of th» people," will be given as a premium to every subscriber who will remit $3 for th* New World one year, in advance, free of postage. The price of this work alone (350 large octavo pages, the size of the New World,) is $1; and, to show the value and interest which this new inducement for increasing our already large subscriptior. list possesses, we add the following : From the Boston Atlas. "The 'Mysteries of Paris' is a picture of human life. The humble may read it, and glean encourage- ment from its pages ; the haughty may read it, and take warning from its lessons , the good may learn to honor goodness, and the wicked may realize the certain, though perhaps tardy consequences of guilt. It is the BOOK OF THR PEOPLE and eloquently pleads the cause of tlie oppressed and humble classes. Address J. WINCHESTER, 30 Ann-street, New- York. Periodicals for the People" published by J. Winchester, 30 Ann-st., New-York. BLACKWOOD'S EDINBURGH MAGAZINE FOR 1844 S ac-Simils ©Mticn. THE CHEAPEST AND BEST MAGAZINE IN THE WORLD. In consequence of the great success which has attended the New World edition of Blackwood, it will here- after be issued in a style fully equal to the original edition, and in the same shape, without any increase of the price. Nothing need be said in praise of a periodical so universally the subject of admiration. It is enough that the first living writers of Great Britain, male and female, make it the channel of their productions. It is expected that the author of " Ten Thousand A- Year" will begin a new story early the present year. Blackwood interests all classes alike. Its articles are on all the prominent and interesting topics of the day : and the stories and poems it gives, are far superior to those in any other magazine. Science, literature, the fine arts, general civilization, the pleasures and education of the people — in a word, the living philosophy of the world may be seen reflected from its luminous pages. Professor Wilson, who has long rejoiced in the nomme de plume of "Christopher North," still rules the destinies of Maga. "Age cannot mar, nor custom stale his infinite variety." Every number of Blackwood will comprise from 120 to 128 large and beautiful octavo pages— containing at least three times the quantity of reading matter of any $3 or $5 magazinejpublished in this;country— forming two splendid volumes a year, of 700 or 80* pages each. TERMS.— Two Dollars a year, in advance; and a free copy to any one obtaining five subscribers, and remit- ting $10. §Cf Blackwood's Magazine for 1843 will be sent to new subscribers for $1. NEW VOLUME — NEW SERIES-1H1, THE REPOSITORY OF MODEM ENGLISH ROMANCE: COMPRISING ALL THE BEST SERIAL NOVELS OF THE DAY, BY JAMES, DICKENS, LEVER, AINSWORTH, LOVER, AND OTHER DISTINGUISHED WRITERS. $ri« CDne SDoIlar 21 tyeax, in &tocmce. Among the cheap republications of the day, none has been received by the public with greater favor than the Monthly Serial Supplement to the New World, containing the newest novels by James, Dickens, Ainsworth, Lever, Lover, and others equally popular and prominent. This periodical will henceforth be continued under a new title, and in a style corresponding with the much-admired Library of Translations from foreign works. It will therefore be much more suitable for binding and preservation. The price will not be altered in consequence. No sooner will one popular novel be completed, than another will be begun ; and thus the series be kept up always with unflagging spirit. " Arrah Neil," by James, now in the course of publication, has been pronounced that distinguished author's best production. The number for January will contain the first part of "Saint James's : or, the Court of Queen Anne :" a historical romance, by W. H. Ainsworth, the popular author of " Windsor Castle," "Miser's Daughter," &c. Other new romances will follow, as they appear in London. The Repository will be issued monthly, after the arrival of the steamer, and will comprise from 32 to 64 pages, and will contain, for One Dollar a year, more matter than any magazine in the country. TERMS.— One Dollar a year ; and a free copy sent to all who obtain five subscribers, and remit Five Dollars free of expense. ^j- The Serial Supplement for 1843 will be sent to new subscribers for Fifty Cents. TAKE NOTICE, That the NEW WORLD, BLACKWOOC'S MAGAZINE, and the REPOSITORY OF MODERN ENG- LISH ROMANCE, will be sent to one address for Five Dollars a year. The "Mysteries of Paris" is not included in this offer. Address J. WINCHESTER. SO Ann-street, New- York. " Books for the People," published by J. Winchester, 30 Ann-Street, New-York. MATILDA; ~~ OR, THE MEMOIRS OF A YOUNG WOMAN. BY EUGENE SUE, AUTHOR OF TEDE " MYSTERIES OF PARIS," ETC., ETC. TRANSLATED BY HENRY WILLIAM HERBERT, AUTHOR OP "MARMADUKE WTPIL," "THE BROTHERS," ETC. PRICE, IN NUMBERS, 75 CENTS-A LIBERAL DISCOUNT TO THE TRADE. " This Romance, probably the best novel of society ever published in France, is, in many respects, greatly su- perior to the ' Mysteries of Taris,' which has lately obtained, as issued from the same press, so large and well- merited a sphere of renown. The morality is unquestionable. Indeed, we cannot conceive of a character more exquisitely imagined, or more naturally depicted, than the heroine, Matilda. Through all trials, ail sufferings, all temptations, virtue is her sole guardian, her sole guide, and, in the end, her ample and sufficient revvard. The other characters are given with equal force and effect— the pictures of Mademoiselle de Maran, Ursula, and the Marquis of Rochegune, standing out in as full and broad relief as any that have ever been conceived by poet or romancer. There is infinitely more truth of nature and vigor of delineation in this work than in any French novel we have ever met with ; and it suffices in itself to place its author, Eugene Sue, in the front rank of con- temporaneous authors. It is translated by Henry W. Herbert, known most favorably throughout this country and Great Britain, as one of the most brilliant and successful novelists of the day." — [N. Y. True Sun. " Such a work as this will exert a salutary effect on strong, well-balanced minds, by impelling them to think and act on the evils whose frightful abysses it uncovers."— [N. Y. Tribune. Second Notice.—" We found time to peruse this work thoroughly during a recent journey, and were never more powerfully affected. There are chapters of terrible energy and insight— such as will compel you to turn back and read them again, even though to read be agony. The letter of Ursula to De Lancry— the ravings of Matilda on the desertion of her husband, and its consequence— the decadence and death-scene of Ursula— are of this class, with many others. Indeed, Ursula and the influences which made her what she was, are among the master-pieces of modem literature. In the novel of society, the French are doubtless unequalled ; and this is one of the best of the school. " Yet it is by no means without faults, and great ones. Matilda is a noble being, but not of the highest order of women. She marries a known and flagrant libertir.e in the silly hope of reclaiming hiin, which no woman of :ue delicacy, to say nothing of common sense, would do. She then, having been treated with every brutality nd indignity by hev husband— as was to be expected— and finully deserted by him, falls in love with another ian, and is on the point of attaching herself to him, while the wretch who is her legal husband still lives. She i not above listening to conversations intended to be private, when their subject deeply interests her. Then ths ero, De Rochegune, falls in love with the abused and deserted wife, fights a duel with indifference, and wounds is adversary. Indeed, all the true men in the book are duellists on provocation. These are sad drawbacks, and rove that the standard of Parisian fashionable morality must be low indeed. And yet, strange though it be, we now not where beside to find a modern book so well calculated to inspire intense detestation of Vice in general, nd especially of the brutal tyranny and lust of which Woman is so often the law-devoted victim, as this same Iatilda."-[N. Y. Tribune. " Sue's thrilling story of ' Matilda,' translated by H. W. Herbert, Esq., although not quite so extensive or iversified in its range of subjects, is equally as powerful and finished a work as the ' Mysteries ;' and we antici- ate a popularity for it equal to that obtained by that magnificent effort of genius."— [N. Y. Aurora. " Matilda is a work of great power and interest, scarcely inferior, in any respect, to the ' Mysteries of Paris.' n this work, the author has taken a new path. Instead of describing scenes of guilt, wretchedness and crfme, * visits the hails of light, and sketches upon the canvas of his imagination the portraits of royalty, and intro- luccs his readers to scenes of splendor and magnificence. The work before us is translated by that popular lovelist, H. W. Herbert, and is most faithfully rendered." — [Boston Bee. " We regard this work of M. Sue as decidedly great. We have little hesitation in declaring it the most extra- >rdinary thing we have ever read— greatly superior to the ' Mysteries of Paris.' The interest is kept up with incommon power and ability, and the moral evolved by the machinery of the story in the most attractive manner. M. Sue is evidently a master-spirit, and is destined to distinguished eminence as a novelist,"— [Lan- caster (Pa.) Journal. " Books for the People," published by J. Winchester, 30 Ann-street, New-York. IMPORTANT ENTERPRISE! II Cf OR mined to issue In consequence of the extraordinary popularity and large demand for copies in the original, the publisher of The New World, at the suggestion, and in compliance of tlie wishes of many French gentlemen, has deter- A FRENCH EDITION MYSTERIES OF PARIS, BY EUGENE SUE. UNDER THE CRITICAL SUPERINTENDENCE OF PROFESSOR C. P. BORDENAVE. The Paris edition, from which we reprint, cannot be had in this country for les9 than TWELVE DOLLARS, which places it entirely beyond the means of the great body of French citizens, as well as of the large' numbers of Americans and others who read the French tongue. In New- York alone there are over 30,000 French resi- dents ; and to say nothing of the State of Louisiana and the British province of Lower Canada, almost entirely populated by Frenchmen and their descendants, there are thousands who read or speak the language as native; and the publisher cannot permit himself to doubt that the present enterprise will meet with the favor and support of the French people throughout the Union, as well as of the thousands of English, Germans, and Americans, who are conversant with the French language. We give below Prof. Bordenave's Card, certifying to the cor- rectness of this edition : "A CARD. "I have read four proofs of each and every page of the New World edition of the 'Mysteries of Paris,' in French, with great care ; and 1 hereby certify that the edition is literally correct. I have not only corrected the errors of the press in the present, but those which occurred in the best original Paris edition, from which this has been copied. This is, therefore, the most perfect edition extant. " I take this occasion to ecommend the public to test the excellence of Mr. Deming's translation, by comparing it with the French. No better exercise for learners could be devised. C. P. BORDENAVE, Prof, of Languages." TERMS OF PUBLICATION. The work will be printed on good paper and new type, to be completed in not njore than eight Parts, each Part containing one volume of the Paris edition, the price of which is $1 50. The numbers will be issued as rapidly as possible— at least one, and probably two in each week, till completed. Price 25 cents each Part. To Book- sellers and Agents, $16 a hundred. ENTREPRISE IMPORTANTE! La popularity toujours croissante des " Mysteres de Paris," la demande reiteree qui se fait tous les jours de l'original de eet ouvrage extraordinaire ont engage les proprietaires du " New World " a donner au public one edition Francaise des M.YSTERES DE PARIS, Complete en huit livraisons a 25 sous chaque. Cette edition est iditee et corrigee avec le plus grand soin par C. P. BORDENAVE, Professetjr de Langues. L'6dition de Paris qui nous sert de copie revient dans ce pays-ci, a dotjze dollars, ce prix 6norme doit necessurement empecher beaucoup de personnes, de se procurer ce bel ouvrage d'Eugene Sue. II y a dans la ville de New- York 30,000 Francais, sans faire mention des habitants de l'etat de la Louisiana, et du Canada, qui sont la plupart Francais ou fils de Francais, il y a en outre aux Etats-Unis, des rnjlliers de personnes qui parlent ou liserit avec facilite la langue Francaise ; les proprietaires du New World ont done tout lieu d'esperer que leur entreprise recevra 1'approbation et le support non seulement des Frangais etablis aux Etats-Unis, ruais encore des Anglais, des Allemands, et des Americains qui sont verses dans la langue Francaise. Le certificat, qui suit, fera preuve du soin avec lequel cette edition est publiee. Ayant lu et corrige avec le plus grand soin 4 epreuves differentes de l'edition Francaise des Mysteres de Paris publiee par les proprietaires du New World, je la recommande au public, comme extremement correcte; non seulement j'ai corrige avec le plus grand soin. l'edition du New World, mais encore, j'ai corrige les erreurs qui se trouvaient par hasard dans l'edition de Paris qui a servi de copie. Je considere done l'edition du New World comme la plus parfaile qui existe. Je prends plaisir en meme temps a recommn nder au public de comparer la traduction de M. Deming avec celle-ci; ce qui sera tres avantageux pourceux qui litudient la langue Francaise. C. P. BORDENAVE, Professeur de Langues. TERMES. Cet ouvrage sera imprime sirwun papier excellent, le caractere est entitlement neuf, et sera composd de huit parties ou livraisons. Chnque livraison contiendrn tin volume de l'edition de Paris, dont le prix est $150: lei livraisons scront emisea ai.ssi rapidement que possible, au moins line ou deux par semainejusqu'k la conclusion 1 1 de l'ouvrage. 25 sous la livraison, se vend aux libraires et aux agents $16 la cent. )-' . Co