F 548 
 
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 .N 7 VI 51 
 
 SECOND 
 
 BOOK 
 
 OF TH& 
 
 KORTH SHORE 
 
 Highways a n aBwAYS 
 Past and Present 
 
Class F s* H 5 
 
 Book ^7 WS\ 
 
 Copyright W 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
SECOND BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 
 
THE HEIGHTS AT "MIRALAGO' 
 Highland Park, 111. 
 

 
 
 
 SECOND 
 
 
 
 BOOK of the NORTH SHORE 
 
 
 
 HOMES, GARDENS, LANDSCAPES 
 
 
 
 HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS 
 
 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 
 
 By MARIAN A. WHITE 
 
 
 
 Author and Lecturer 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 CHAPEL TOWER 
 
 
 
 Lake Forest College 
 
 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 
 
 J. HARRISON WHITE 
 
 
 
 1911 
 
 
 
 Price Two Dollars 
 
 
 
 
 
 Copyright. 191 1, by J. Harrison While 
 

 TO THE 
 
 PATRONS AND SUBSCRIBERS 
 
 WHO HAVE MADE 
 ITS PRODUCTION POSSIBLE 
 
 THIS BOOK 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 
 
 THE PUBLISHER 
 
 $£• 
 
 (TO 
 
 The franklin Co. 
 engravers and printers 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 ©CI.A30(H*)i)7 
 
 / k*N i. 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 The Treaty of Chicago, whereby the Indian, on the twentieth day 
 of September, eighteen hundred and thirty-three, ceded all that 
 remained of his birthright, in Illinois and Wisconsin, was consum- 
 mated on the North Shore. Therefore the ''First Book of the North 
 Shore" (1910), naturally dwells upon the traditions and legends 
 associated with Chicago and this immediate environment. The 
 author, in the preparation of this earlier work, realized how much 
 of traditional interest, the "North Shore" in Lake County, possessed. 
 In the "Second Book of the North Shore" effort has been made to 
 tell its story. As a similar work on the highways and byways in the 
 same county, but a little more remote from the west shore line of the 
 Great Lake, is in contemplation, but brief mention is made of these 
 particular localities, and, only in so far as their traditions are closely 
 associated with those of Waukegan, Lake Forest and Highland Park. 
 In the first work, Cook County was largely represented. The present 
 work is also illustrative of the "present" in Glencoe, Hubbard Woods, 
 Kenilworth, Wilmette, Evanston, Birchwood, Rogers Park, Edge- 
 water, and Glen View. Later, the author hopes to feature the past 
 and present of Evanston in an illustrated work of like kind. "Out 
 of scraps and fragments, diamond dust of the past," must we link 
 together, not only that which is of import locally, but that which 
 shall swell the budget of tradition, nationally. 
 
 
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 it* &* 41 J 1 
 
 J. OGDEN ARMOUR'S SUMMER HOME 
 Lake Forest 
 
 Highways and Byways 
 Past and Present 
 
 THE HIGHWAY IS OPENED 
 
 Thou givest all 
 An equal chance — to work, to do their best — 
 Free land, free hand — thy son must work or fall 
 Grow strong or die ! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call ! 
 
 A. C. Laut. 
 
 BEFORE the seventeenth century had rounded to maturity, 
 England and France were vieing with each other for territorial 
 aggrandizement in that newer country, far, far beyond the 
 Atlantic seaboard. The latter territory was still in the throes of 
 pioneer development, while that of the Great Lakes, the unexplored 
 region, became the land of romance, of heroic deeds, of new pleasures 
 and wealth in the imagination of those who were willing to brave 
 its hardships. 
 
 The church, too, was caught in the spirit of the age. Its mis- 
 sionaries, young men of learning and of unquenchable zeal, were 
 urged to join the various expeditions of exploration with a view to 
 converting the aborigines to the Faith. A brave and noble band were 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 these ambassadors of the Cross. How they struggled to gain con- 
 verts amid hardships inconceivable, as well as their sufferings from 
 exposure and fatigue, can better be imagined than described. Their 
 letters tell very little of these features of the expedition, so thoroughly 
 had self become absorbed in caring for others. Yet one may read 
 between the lines of these precious documents. 
 
 The Indians had brought to the traders of the Upper St. Lawrence 
 wonderful stories of a country in the vicinity of a Great River which 
 no white man had seen. Across seas spread this legend of the Mis- 
 sissippi Valley, and in due course, the highways and byways of river, 
 lake and wilderness trail became familiar to explorer, missionary, 
 voyageur, trader and adventurer, each and all urging their impetuous 
 way northward and westward. Advance or retreat, encouragement 
 or despair, according to the will or notion of the warring Indians 
 through whose territory they must of necessity pass; beset with 
 privations of every kind ; running the gauntlet of capture and torture 
 worse than death, undaunted and courageous to recklessness, passed 
 band after band of those wilderness pioneers, and messengers of the 
 story of the Cross from New France over the route which might bring 
 them to this Eldorado. 
 
 Nicolet, Groseillier and Radison, Joliet and Marquette, La Salle, 
 Tonty and Hennepin, each in due course making their way to Green 
 Bay, singly or in company, and from thence journeying to thg west, 
 northwest and southwest, in their ambition to annex territory to the 
 New France that had established itself at Quebec, as well as for the 
 conversion of the aborigines to Christianity. Associated with each 
 and all of these names is an interesting amount of legend and tradi- 
 tion but partially told. 
 
 It is early Autumn and the year 1673. The wood-crested bluffs 
 of the shore north from the "Chicagou" are struggling to retain 
 pretentions of summer finery, while coquettishly appropriating frag- 
 ments of that regal splendor suggestive of the ripening season, that 
 imperceptibly melts into the rime of winter. Fair and fickle wert 
 thou, dear old woodlands! Even as today. Yet 'twixt thy changing 
 moods, through vistas that were fast telling the story of crumpled 
 leaf and wind-swept distances, on this particular Autumn day in 
 question, might be found an Indian watching the purpled billows 
 making sport of two frail canoes. 
 
 A moment before and his bow was taut ! But the graceful creature 
 now peacefully browsing in the depths of yon ravine, owes its present 
 immunity to the fact that its would-be slayer has become distraught 
 from suspicion. Cherished as one of the special gifts of " Manitou 
 the Mighty," the red man experiences feelings of resentment toward 
 the purposeful urging of two birch-bark canoes over his own particular 
 highway. Besides the merry chansons of the irrepressible coureurs 
 de bois, fall on his ear as if in defiance or challenge. 
 
 Among the occupants of the foremost canoe he singles out one 
 with darkly-bearded face, and notes with apprehension that a pair of 
 eagle eyes are keenly scanning the bluffs, while significant gesticula- 
 tions are made in the same direction. The throb of irritation, that 
 like an arrow pierced the bosom of the Indian, now yields to one of 
 
 Page nine 
 
Page ten 
 

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 Pa^re eleven 
 
Page twelve 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 less antagonism, as he becomes aware of a wasted and gaunt form 
 enveloped in a dark, travel-stained garment, being borne along by 
 the less boisterous movements of two engages, in the second canoe. 
 
 "Black Robe!" Yes, the Indian had already become familiar 
 with its significance, for not so many moons had waxed and waned 
 since a "Black Robe" (Father Allouez) had told to the Winnebagoes 
 in the northland the Story of One who had died to save. He was 
 a Pale Face, as was the Black Robe who brought the message. And 
 now a number of pale faces and another Black Robe are adown the 
 waterway bordered by the favorite hunting grounds! What does it 
 portend? The Indian soon learned. 
 
 Had the darkly-bearded man (Joliet) succeeded in conveying the 
 valuable memoranda and charts outlining this particular expedition 
 of exploration, the North Shore might be more rife with tradition and 
 legend than at present. How did its bluffs and dunes, its forests and 
 ravines, its inlets and sandy and pebbled beaches impress the first 
 white men who dared its mutable waters? 
 
 But the Lachine Rapids of the beautiful St. Lawrence hold within 
 their maw of turmoil and never-ceasing action the story we would 
 fain tell. Nothing in the way of discovery and exploration seems 
 difficult in these modern days of scientific acquirement, and if these 
 documents were on parchment and protected by skin covering, it is 
 not improbable that at some time in the future when the Lachine 
 Rapids come under the manipulation of engineers, bent on making 
 them navigable, that the lost documents will be found and in such 
 condition as to be of service to those interested. 
 
 Marquette, the gentle missionary, has left in his diary unmis- 
 takeable evidence of his voyage adown the North Shore in the autumn 
 of 1674. Two shelter places are clearly defined in this particular 
 vicinity — in the neighborhood of what is now Lake Bluff and Evanston 
 (See "Book of North Shore", 1910). Two local historians claim the 
 present site of Waukegan as one of the shelter places on this particular 
 expedition to the Illini. This is not an improbable conclusion. The 
 band of Pottawattomies, in five canoes acting as escort, would be 
 familiar with the shore line and its advantageous inlets for rest and 
 shelter, as well as its immunity from unfriendly expressions on the 
 part of the natives. But the assertion that Marquette landed some- 
 where in the vicinity of what is now designated Waukegan, and from 
 thence journeyed over the inland trail to the mouth of the Chicago 
 river, has no foundation in fact. 
 
 True, the smaller band of Illini, whom he had suffered to accom- 
 pany him in four canoes, were not in favor of the water— the Great 
 Lake in particular. They were not "canoe-men" in the same sense 
 as the Pottawattomies. Therefore, supposing the Illini to have sug- 
 gested the inland trail, the Pottawattomies, the all-powerful tribe in 
 this vicinity at that period, would have over-ruled the proposal, for 
 Marquette was not in condition, physically, to undergo the fatigue 
 attending this latter route. 
 
 The lake, in spite of stress of weather, seemed the more feasible, 
 for in his canoe the missionary might be borne along in reclining 
 position when fatigue necessitated that change. Again, Lake Mich- 
 
 Page thirteen 
 
Page fourteen 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Photo by Benin 
 
 A TURN IN THE ROAD 
 Lake Forest, 111. 
 
 igan was then, as today, smiling in its azure bewitchingness one hour, 
 the next finding it the plaything of winds, which transform its placid 
 waters into heaving bulkheads, threatening dire destruction to all 
 craft caught within their power. And also as today, after a night of 
 storm and unrest, the sun rose fair and promising from the eastern 
 horizon, bestowing upon lake, bluff and woodlands a beneficence of 
 warmth and brightness like the smile of heaven itself. 
 
 So our early voyageurs took heart of grace, and, encouraged by 
 the trend of the wind to the westward, where the faraway prairies, 
 touched with the decorative effects of autumn, were waving their long 
 grasses in sea-like motion, and in phantasies of gold, amethyst and 
 crimson, launched their canoes on the sappharine waters, and again 
 missionary-explorer and his engages, as well as the two bands of 
 friendly disposed Indians, are gliding toward the mouth of the 
 "Chicagou." 
 
 The ice-floes of the same shore were braved by Father Claude 
 Allouez, in the winter season of 1676 and 1677. What a world of 
 tradition and romance might be wrought from the passing of this 
 second heroic soldier of the Cross adown our storm-lashed shores! 
 Father Allouez was no longer young. He had endured great hard- 
 ships among the Indians of Lake Superior previous to his first coming 
 to Green Bay. It was after Marquette, journeying northward on the 
 eastern shore of the Lake, was seized by illness, terminating in death, 
 that Allouez journeyed to the Illinois Indians, among whom he 
 worked until the coming of La Salle. 
 
 Page fifteen 
 
Page sixteen 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 A VISTA IN THE LAKE PARK 
 Lake Forest, 111. 
 
 La Salle ! Another name with which to conjure in the legendary 
 and traditional of this particular vicinity. Scholar, gentleman, 
 explorer, La Salle became ambitious for his country's territorial 
 expansion. His imagination fired by the legends that reached him 
 of the vast, unexplored wilderness westward of the New France, 
 La Salle forced himself here, there and everywhere with the impetu- 
 osity of the whirlwind, so active, enthusiastic and intrepid was he in 
 urging the extension of French dominion in the New World. Link 
 his name with that of the devoted Tonty, with Hennepin, Membre 
 and a host of others, and a whole volume of tradition and legend 
 might be woven around this combination of church and state, of 
 political intrigue and treachery. 
 
 It was La Salle who first introduced to the waters of Lake Mich- 
 igan the forerunner of the white-winged craft that was later to skim 
 or plough its waters in the interest of commerce. More than dis- 
 courteous and lacking in hospitality was our dear old lake at this 
 particular period. It was nothing less than brutal in its treatment 
 of the frail, bird-like vessel that had come to it as a messenger of 
 promise. And somewhere, no one knows just where, the "Griffon" 
 (forty-five tons burden) fraught with La Salle's earnest hopes and 
 heavily laden with a cargo of valuable furs while on its return trip 
 eastward, battered and affrighted, sank, with broken pinions beneath 
 the relentless waters. 
 
 Six years have elapsed since the Indian beheld with mingled 
 emotions of curiosity and resentment the first invasion of the shore 
 
 Page seventeen 
 
Page ei glit ecu 
 
I G H W A V S AND BYWAYS — PAST AND p RES E N T 
 
 k 
 
 Photo by Beinn 
 
 BROADLY SWEEPING RIGHT AND LEFT 
 Lake Forest, 111. 
 
 line by the pale face. He had then been somewhat mollified by the 
 sight of the " Black Robe," the order which he had learned to respect. 
 Now a little to the northward and within shelter of the bluffs, the 
 members of another expedition have been forced to the beach by 
 stress of weather. Upon landing they discover signs of Indian 
 occupancy, although no red man is in sight. Appointing a guard 
 for the night the remainder of the company settle themselves for 
 sleep. But the sentinel (and who shall blame him?) screened himself 
 from the bitter chill and torrential downpour. 
 
 The Indians were watching, and when opportunity for a closer 
 investigation was afforded, they came silently down their accustomed 
 trail, and keeping closely within the shelter of the bluffs stealthily 
 approached the sleepers. Nearer and nearer they crept and closely 
 scanned the faces of the slumbering men. The rugged lineaments 
 and resolute expression of one of the number drew forth the exclama- 
 tion of "Big Chief!" The curiosity of the Indian has ultimately got 
 the better of his wonted wariness with the result that the band of 
 prowlers is discovered. The red men are encouraged to come for- 
 ward, and protestations of friendliness on their part are received by 
 La Salle and his men in good faith. Small gifts were bestowed upon 
 them and they departed. 
 
 The grey lines of dawn had no sooner tricked the eastern horizon, 
 than the members of the expedition awakened to the fact that they 
 had been the prey of thieves. La Salle knew the Indian character 
 and he acted accordingly. Followed by his men and the three friars 
 
 Page nineteen 
 
Page twenty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 he took to the trail and seizing a young warrior held him as hostage 
 while he pushed his way toward the chief and boldly demanded the 
 return of the stolen articles, at the same time making him under- 
 stand that in the event of his request not being honored, the life of 
 the prisoner would be forfeited. 
 
 The Indians, conscious of the fact that they outnumbered the 
 white men, prepared to fight. What a moment for the intrepid 
 explorer and his little band! But fearless, and resolute, and with 
 guns in hand they faced more than a hundred yelling, whooping 
 savages, yet forbore from being the first to attack. The Indians, 
 surprised and doubtful, also hesitated to begin the fight. These pale 
 faces seemed to know no fear. So they resorted to a parley, whereby 
 most of the stolen articles were restored. 
 
 But the Indian of the North Shore had now become familiar with 
 another kind of pale face — the fighting man, as well as with that 
 other "medicine man," the "Gray Robe." It is not so very long 
 before he feels the power and purpose of the one for whose imple- 
 ments of warfare he hungered and the earnestness and zeal of the 
 other. Then "Black Robe" and "Gray Robe" became associated in 
 his intelligence as "Long Robe," and he was never again quite as 
 interested in that Wonderful Story of the Cross. There were doubts 
 within, and fears without, and he began to look with suspicion upon 
 the pale face, whether he came in the garb of priest or trader, and 
 he rested his hopes in his own Manitou, regardless of the self-sacrificing 
 lives of the two orders of missionaries that strove to bring his people 
 within the Christian fold. 
 
 THE STONE GATE 
 Lake Forest 
 
 Page twenty-one 
 
Page twenty-two 
 
APPROACH TO THE ONWENTSIA CLUB 
 Lake Forest, 111. 
 
 GLIMPSES OF LAKE COUNTY 
 
 "We pluck from the vines they set ; 
 
 We walk in the ways they made ; 
 We harvest their fields ; and their forests yet 
 
 Are giving us rest and shade. 
 
 The fathers — the men of old 
 
 Who builded a place for us, 
 A country magnificent ; brave and bold 
 
 In their faith all glorious." 
 
 IN the early period of its political history, Lake County was a 
 part of Cook County ; that is it was in the Chicago precinct or 
 election district. September, 1835, the county commissioners of 
 Cook, created a new precinct which comprised most of the territory 
 north of Chicago, naming it the Lake Precinct. March first, 1839, 
 by act of the general assembly, the boundaries and distinguishing title 
 were bestowed on what is now known as Lake County. It received 
 its designation from the fact that its whole eastern boundary is 
 defined by the Great Lake as well as in consideration of its territory — 
 about 460 square miles — embracing a number of smaller lakes, forty 
 of which were familiar at the time, the number since discovered and 
 acknowledged, reaching the hundred mark. 
 
 Little is known of the ancient people that possessed this charm- 
 ing section of inland lakes, of rich forest growth, and undulating 
 stretches of open prairie. The Mound Builders were here, but they, 
 
 Page hventy-thrce 
 
Page twenty-four 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 as the Indian, had no written language, therefore the little tradition 
 gathered from their occupancy has been through the excavation of a 
 few mounds which have yielded relics of much interest to the student 
 of archaeology. That this prc-historic people were superior to our 
 aboriginal, even as the latter is of inferior race to the white man, 
 there is little doubt, and that Lake County was a favorite territory 
 of the Indian, we are sure. Game was here in abundance; lakes and 
 streams furnished a variety of fish, while the marshes became the 
 breeding places of a variety of waterfowl. Our red brother preyed 
 upon these as a means of sustenance, as well as to obtain skin for 
 clothing, so when the first settlers came, they, too, found game, fish 
 and fowl in rich variety. 
 
 Prairie and forest were penetrated by a network of byways that 
 intimated a direct route to some given point. Perhaps a war trail 
 pushed itself directly in the vicinity of a hostile tribe. Later, the 
 same trail designated the most direct route to the cabin of hunter 
 or trader, or to some small settlement of the pale face. Other trails 
 were the outcome of the chase, certain pathways through forest or 
 woodland, or over undulating prairie, designating the habitual route 
 of the tribe when on a hunting expedition. There were trails exempli- 
 fying the migratory spirit of whole villages, for parallel with the 
 moccasined-patted footpath were the deeply indented traces of the 
 tepee sticks. 
 
 Through the intricate forest ways the Indian would frequently 
 twist or bend the lithe branches of a young sapling in such form 
 that it would ultimately grow and show a marked difference from 
 anything of neighboring development, thereby designating a particular 
 route which would afterward become a known trail. The white oak 
 and the white elm trees seem to have been selected along the North 
 Shore for this purpose. 
 
 A few of these trail trees remain. Some of the early settlers 
 recognized them as landmarks of import so made an effort toward 
 their preservation. Others, and these were in the majority, con- 
 sidered them freaks of nature, or "deformed trees," and so destroyed 
 them. The ax was the most useful of implements to the pioneer, 
 but he did not always wield it judiciously. Historical landmarks 
 were destroyed, and highways and byways unnecessarily denuded of 
 that which he could never hope to replace. 
 
 With regard to the Indian trails in Lake County Hon. C. A. Part- 
 ridge, who was brought to this region by his parents when but a child 
 of twelve months, and who is now in the ripening years of an honor- 
 able and useful life, and after becoming personally familiar with the 
 trend of these byways of the past, says the "red man without 
 scientific instruments and with no knowledge of the surveyor's art, 
 in a country dotted with lakes and sloughs, laid out long routes of 
 travel in a way to avoid and pass between the numerous undrained 
 ponds and marshes, and yet allow travel in a straight line." 
 
 In 1835 one of the oldest of these trails on the North Shore, under 
 the supervision of General Scott, U. S. A., was converted into a high- 
 way for military purposes, thus linking "Little Fort" (Waukegan), 
 Green Bay and Chicago. This highway is still known as the Green 
 
 Page twenty- five 
 
Page twenty-six 
 
HIG HWA YS A ND BYWAYS — PAST AND P RESENT 
 
 Bay Road, and its greatest charm and picturesqueness lies within 
 the boundaries of Lake County. 
 
 Soon after the evolution of the old trail into that of a military 
 road, a plank road pushed its way westward and northward, also 
 over a byway of the past, from Chicago into Lake County, where in 
 the neighborhood of Indian Creek it crossed the Des Plaines and 
 united with the Green Bay Road about a mile north of Liberty ville. 
 In less than a year this latter road became a stage route, and though 
 the vehicle used was nothing but a common lumber wagon it received 
 added dignity in being drawn by four horses, and as pioneer repre- 
 sentative of the United States Mail service through Lake County. 
 Previous to this, mail had been carried by runners between Chicago 
 and Green Bay, over the old historic trail before mentioned. 
 
 On the arrival of the first settlers in Lake County, the Indian 
 realized his day of doom was at hand, so he peacefully acquiesced in 
 the new order. True, he caused the pioneer settler some discomfort 
 by tenaciously hovering in the vicinity of farm or cabin, and per- 
 chance, appropriating that upon which he had set his fancy, but as 
 a rule he was orderly and inclined to be peaceful, except when under 
 the influence of the white man's "fire water." The final treaty by 
 which the Indians ceded their right to this particular territory had 
 not been consummated when the first settlers came to the county, 
 and in spite of the warnings issued by the government, a few daring 
 pioneers staked claims while the Indian was still the lawful possessor 
 of the land. By this time the red man had become somewhat pro- 
 ficient in the use of firearms, his children alone using bow and arrow. 
 So products of the chase became objects of trade and barter between 
 himself and the earlier white settlers. The latter found some prim- 
 itive attempts at cultivation of the soil, and corn, squashes and beans 
 were struggling for mastery under these crude conditions of farming. 
 
 By 1839 the Indian title was extinguished and the tribes were 
 gradually coralled into reservations beyond the Mississippi. As in 
 previous history the red man's abandonment of territory meant the 
 white man's settlement thereon, and Lake County proved no excep- 
 tion to this rule. The white man, as the Indian, preferred the vicinity 
 of rivers and streams, so the first real influx of settlers to Lake County 
 selected the banks of the Des Plaines river which traverses the county 
 from north to south at an average distance of six miles west of the 
 Great Lake. The French explorers designated this river in the old 
 maps as "Aux Plaines," while later it became localized on modern 
 maps as "O 'Plain." In early times it had gone by the name of the 
 Des Plaines River, signifying river of the plains, while to the Indian 
 it had been familiar as the " She-shick-ma-wish-sip-pe, " meaning 
 "soft maple tree river." 
 
 There was a number of creeks in this vicinity, all of which were 
 distinguished by Indian names of significance, and those which have 
 not been dried up by evaporation, or by drainage, still preserve the 
 Anglo-Saxonized interpretation of the aboriginal title. One may 
 roam throughout this region today, wondering if tradition is not 
 playing him false in its assertion that here in the long — and yet not 
 so very long ago (1836), a boat was rowed and poled up the north 
 
 Page twenty- seven 
 
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 Page twenty-eight 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 branch of the Chicago River to its source — the Dady Slough — a little 
 west of the present site of Waukegan. 
 
 This boat resolved itself into a sort of relief expedition, its cargo 
 consisting of thirty bushels of potatoes and other badly needed sup- 
 plies for the families of the settlers. So far as can be learned, in the 
 person of Jacob Miller was combined that of captain and crew, pro- 
 prietor and sole occupant of the pioneer river-boat that pushed its 
 way over the birch-bark-canoe byway of the Indian. And it speaks 
 well for the peaceful attitude of the Indian at this time, who, it will 
 be remembered, was still the "lawful possessor of the land," that 
 the courageous pale face reached his ultimate destiny without let or 
 hindrance and with his scalp still safe under his twist of red handker- 
 chief. It is a pity that Jacob Miller left no detailed account of this 
 expedition. Yet, tramping beside parts of this water-course today, 
 one realizes some of the difficulties encountered by this intrepid boat- 
 man, whose name and that of his descendants figure largely and 
 honorably in the history and evolution of Lake County. 
 
 Legends of the importance of grist mills and saw mills, keeping 
 parts of this same waterway busy and excited in its pioneer work 
 of turning the old type of waterwheel, are many. Today these 
 designated sites show either a dwindling, lifeless stream, or a sinuous 
 trail of stagnant water, by courtesy, designated "river," that has 
 neither current nor power sufficient to float a toy boat or turn a 
 bauble wheel. But communities have grown and flourished here, 
 and today, smiling farmlands and enterprising cities and villages all 
 bear evidence of that which is up-to-date and progressive, while still 
 retaining that subtle charm of an interesting and historic yesterday. 
 
 The next desirable location for the early settlers proved to be 
 the territory adjacent to and in the immediate vicinity of the old 
 trail. Here, on the Green Bay Road, in the early forties, a scattering 
 of pioneers might be found whose acres trended toward the lovely 
 valley westward, or eastward toward the beautifully timbered por- 
 tions nearer the lake. In the aeons that have come and gone, long 
 before the coming of the Mound Builders and the Indian, this ridge, 
 according to students of archaeology, was the boundary of the lake 
 itself. So in the early history of Lake County this former bluff that 
 had in the infinite ages of which there is no record, defined the 
 boundary of the waters which are now a mile or more distant from 
 it, and over which the prairie grasses waved and the lordly forest 
 trees towered, in the early forties of the last century, is found the 
 pioneer home-builder. 
 
 In these years, and in the vicinity of what we now know as Lake 
 Forest and Highland Park, the one-time Indian trail and military 
 highway became conscious of a new order. There was an unfamiliar 
 sound penetrating this silent highway. It was the ring of the wood- 
 man's ax. Presently — within the clearing made by the slaughter of 
 the monarchs that had for centuries spread their beneficence over 
 the red man's sinuous byways, whose limbs had become sturdy and 
 gnarled during the passing of tribe after tribe of the most interesting 
 and powerful of savage nations, might be seen a little dun-colored 
 structure, so in keeping with the hues of the forest itself that it 
 
 Page twenty-nine 
 
Page thirty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 imparts a grace note to the scale of magnificent vistas by which it 
 is environed. 
 
 The first log cabin was not one foot larger than absolutely neces- 
 sary. It was generally the product of a single man's labor. By 
 and bye he induced a woman to share it with him. Perhaps he 
 traveled weary distances, either on foot or by ox team, to win her 
 as his wife and persuade her to come to the log cabin in the wilderness 
 and make a home for them both. Brave and sturdy were the men 
 of pioneer times! But the women, considering the conditions, were 
 even more courageous and buoyant. Then honor to them both. 
 
 Together they blazed a trail whose glory scintillates in the homes 
 of the nation. Their descendants are still building homes and empire. 
 The mountains have yielded to their energy and perseverance, the 
 desert smiles and blossoms as they pass. The snows of Alaska 
 recognize their indomitable will and never-tiring energy; the tropics 
 languish no longer in do-nothingness after the magic of their mood 
 has penetrated its somnolency. No monument is needed to per- 
 petuate their memory, for they are a vital part of the nation itself, 
 and so long as home-life is honored and the nation's best asset is 
 found in the integrity of its representatives America will be all that 
 these early pioneers dared hope it would be — a power for good among 
 the nations of the earth. 
 
 After awhile, family emergencies necessitated a second and larger 
 home, or an addition to the first one. This time the man did not 
 hew and cut and build alone. Other settlers had, in the meantime, 
 located within a mile, maybe five or ten miles of distance, and the 
 neighborly, helpful spirit prevailing under conditions fostered by this 
 early time, a second and more commodious log structure came into 
 being. When finished a house-warming was in order. Among the 
 invited guests, be sure there was one, and perhaps two, who knew 
 how to manipulate flute or violin, either or both of these instruments 
 having been smuggled in among his other "pioneer belongings." 
 Then feet were compelled to keep rhythmic movement, while eyes 
 blinked through tears both joyous and sad as strains reminiscent of 
 days that knew not the hardship and privations of the later years 
 were wafted from end to end of the primitive, yet happy home in 
 the wilderness. 
 
 Schoolhouses, also built of logs, were used for religious services 
 and for community gatherings, political and otherwise, as occasion 
 demanded. Legend tells of the first schoolhouse in Lake County 
 being built at Libertyville in the Autumn of 1836; that it was of 
 the block-house style— that is the logs were hewn on both sides. 
 This schoolhouse was built, as most of the schoolhouses of this period, 
 by subscription, and supported by contributions. There were many 
 bachelors in Libertyville and its vicinity at this time, and to their 
 credit be it said, the little log schoolhouse not only received better 
 care in its building, but larger financial support from this band of 
 enterprising pioneers, who builded better than they knew. 
 
 It was the period of rail fences, and what an amount of time and 
 labor was expended in the making of the same ! Ax, maul and wedge 
 were the onlv available tools and the labor commanded a remuner- 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 ation of one cent per rail. These fences meant greater onslaughts 
 upon the forests, and as timber was plenty, no effort was made toward 
 economizing the supply. Stacks of rails would be piled ready for 
 use or for sale only to be later devoured by prairie fires that destroyed 
 the already constructed fences. Wood was the only fuel and this 
 was used steadily for more than thirty years after the first timber 
 had been felled in the region of the Green Bay Road, while steam- 
 boats and railroads, that followed some years after the first settlers, 
 used wood as fuel continuously until the early eighties. 
 
 So the magnificent forests seen by the pioneer were fast tending 
 toward destruction, and the fact that the actual Lake Shore, with its 
 intercepting ravines, forbade easy transportation of material, this 
 particular vicinity would also have suffered the fate of the earlier 
 settled regions, and much of its attractiveness and beauty — -its charm 
 of the present — have been lost. 
 
 In this day of agricultural labor-saving devices, it is difficult to 
 bring oneself in complete sympathy with the tiller of the soil at a 
 period when the "back-breaking cradle" was the principal harvest- 
 ing machine and when threshing was performed by a vigorous wield- 
 ing of the flail or by the treading-out process, when grass was cut 
 with a scythe in the hand of the laborer, and the hay loaded and 
 unloaded by a fork in the hands of each individual of a group of 
 workers. The slow process of hand-seeding has given place to the 
 more expeditious methods of "planter" and "cultivator" devices. 
 These pioneer settlers wrought and struggled and conquered under 
 conditions of which we can form no conception. 
 
 Yesterday the plow and the shovel were the only available road- 
 making devices, the forests being stripped in order to corduroy 
 marshy places, and later, when sawmills were at hand, material was 
 provided for the planking of roads. Today, over highways where the 
 ox team plodded in the long ago, the automobile may now safely pass 
 at a speed forbidden by most of the municipalities through which it 
 recklessly appropriates right of way. 
 
 Road-making has not yet reached perfection, to be sure, but Lake 
 County has some finely constructed highways, quite a few of which 
 stretch over trails associated with a past that must ever be of interest 
 to those who realize that the fostering of tradition and legendary 
 lore ultimately trends to poetical expression, either by pen or by 
 brush. In other words, an art, national of type, can never be evolved 
 without tradition and legend upon which to build and create the 
 coloring of bygone periods. 
 
 Township organization was not adopted in Lake County until 
 1850, and the first county seat was established on the site now 
 occupied by Libertyville and designated Burlington. The county was 
 divided into sixteen townships, four of which border Lake Michigan, 
 and three of these, Waukegan, Shields and Deerfield become of 
 particular interest in this present narrative of the North Shore. 
 
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GYMNASIUM 
 Lake Forest College 
 
 LAKE FOREST— THE COLLEGE CITY 
 OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 When courage fails, or hopes are dying, 
 
 Our thoughts shall ever turn to thee; 
 Our watchword be, till time is ended, 
 
 "For God, Lake Forest, Victory!" 
 
 Alvah W. Doran C93.) 
 
 THE story of Lake Forest is so closely affiliated with its educational 
 institutions that one cannot be written without aid of the other. 
 Yet is there a period when the first white settler came, when the 
 first little dun-colored structure, designated "home," appeared on 
 the old Indian trail, known as the Green Bay Road. This was in 
 1834, when settlers first came to Lake County, and at the time when 
 the Indian was still in possession. Perhaps Otis Hinckley, who built 
 this first log cabin, came as a hunter and a trader among the abor- 
 igines. There are two other names associated with him at this period, 
 that of Thomas McLaughlin and John Strong, both of whom had 
 pioneer homes in this section of the county. 
 
 That in 1838 there were young folks here needing an education 
 is proven by the fact that on the Green Bay Road, and in the vicinity 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 of Lake Forest, one William Cunningham taught school in his own 
 house. In early times, not only in Lake County, but in other early 
 settled communities, the homes were frequently used, not only for 
 school purposes, but for religious services. Of these homes, in the 
 middle thirties, and of the descendants of the families occupying the 
 same, the writer has been unable to gather very little that is pertinent 
 to this present narrative. But those who traverse this section of the 
 old Indian trail, which later became the military Highway, and now 
 one of the fine driveways of the county, will note with interest, the 
 past and the present closely allied in the home architecture. 
 
 At this particular point the Skokie Valley begins to develop a 
 picturesqueness that becomes more and more attractive as one travels 
 southward. Its finest development in this vicinity is at the extreme 
 south of Lake Forest. Just at this terminating point the Green Bay 
 Road assumes some altitude, its eastern boundary being marked by 
 beautifully rising ground, said to be the highest point between Chicago 
 and Milwaukee, which designates the home site of Mr. J. Kuppen- 
 heimer. This acreage evidently covers much of traditional import in 
 connection with the Indian occupation. A very important village 
 must have been here located, and its position, together with the fact 
 that the Skokie is visible for miles, suggests its occupation by the 
 representatives of various tribes during a session of Council. This 
 site has yielded rich finds of almost everything associated with the 
 occupancy of the Indian, while the student becomes imbued with the 
 thought, that here, long, long before the red man held his councils, 
 another nation builded mounds and earthworks. From this particular 
 point of vantage the Skokie is plainly seen trending sinuously toward 
 the south. It reaches its culmination of scenic beauty and the charm 
 of far-reaching distances, in Highland Park. 
 
 Those building modern homes on the west side of the Green Bay 
 Road, in Lake Forest, have faced them toward the valley, with 
 driveways as an outlet to the historic highway, while the earlier homes, 
 those that succeeded the log cabin period and a decade or so later, 
 are found fronting the same highway, with lovely undulations trend- 
 ing toward the valley. It is here, and just a little north of West- 
 minster Avenue, where a group of the pioneer band of settlers to Lake 
 Forest came. On one particular site, now occupied by a charming 
 structure of frame -^pome what old-fashioned in style maybe, but with 
 interior modern as any up-to-date city mansion, that legend centers 
 in the beginnings of Lake Forest. 
 
 The log cabin, which stood a few feet to the north, was retained 
 many years after it had been abandoned as a home, from a feeling 
 of sentiment. In this cabin was born on March i, 1843, William 
 Atteridge, who ultimately became one of the four original students 
 in the first graduating class ('62) of the Lake Forest Academy. The 
 distinction is also claimed that Mr. Atteridge was the first white child 
 born on the North Shore within the limits of Lake County. 
 
 Miss Fanny Atteridge, the sister of Thomas, and who is residing 
 in the pleasant homestead before mentioned, was also born in the log 
 home and was one of the first students to graduate from Ferry Hall. 
 There are some interesting legends connected with the Atteridge log 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 home. Mrs. Atteridge, the mother, was a Miss Mary Cole, and she 
 lived to the ripe age of ninety-six. 
 
 When Mrs. Atteridge first came to live in the log cabin on the 
 Green Bay Trail, the Indians had not yet left the vicinity, and she 
 used to see them frequently passing back and forth, while others, 
 without invitation, would walk in and stretch themselves in front of 
 the hearth. This proves the confidence with which the earlier settlers 
 looked upon the Indian. Most of them in their hearts held him as 
 an object of commiseration, and treated him accordingly. The door 
 was ever on the latch for either wanderer, be he Indian or white man. 
 Miss Atteridge says her mother "knew no fear." 
 
 Another time, seeing an Indian passing with his blanket tucked 
 snugly around him, the weather being chilly, and with no covering 
 on his head, Mrs. Atteridge bethought her of an old hat belonging to 
 her husband, and taking it in her hand, hurried after the lone Indian 
 along the Green Bay Trail. He took it from her and really seemed 
 grateful for it, put it on his head and resumed his dogged trot, while 
 Mrs. Atteridge hastened to the shelter of her snug home. After some 
 little time had elapsed, the door of the cabin opened, and in walked 
 the Indian, and without sign or gesture, laid the hat at her feet. He 
 had evidently given it a trial and it had been found wanting, at least 
 in his Indian intelligence. 
 
 Mrs. Atteridge also used to love to tell of the French Canadians, 
 who from time to time would enter the cabin and seek permission to 
 cook by her fire. Of course, the hospitality of the wilderness demanded 
 that this favor should be granted and our early settlers became accus- 
 tomed to these demands. The French Canadians of whom Mrs. Atter- 
 idge tells, were in all probability hunters and traders, leading a more 
 or less adventurous life, keeping in the neighborhood of the streams 
 principally, but frequently portaging quite long distances over the 
 well-known trails. But all these legends add to the interest of the 
 vicinity, and it is a pity that so much of this has escaped us, simply 
 because we have been so energetic in our trend toward everything 
 that is commercial. 
 
 This Atteridge farm is on a very historical site. Miss Atteridge 
 has a wonderful collection of Indian relics found during the first early 
 ploughings, and she treasures them with the right kind of sentiment. 
 Her mother's spinning wheel, brought from Ireland together with her 
 reel and butter print, and an old violin belonging to her father are 
 among the heirlooms of this family, who at one period owned most 
 of that which is designated Lake Forest. Other descendants of this 
 pioneer family are living in the vicinity and the third generation is 
 in attendance at the Lake Forest College. 
 
 Lake Forest is wonderfully favored by nature, and it was fortunate 
 that its early projectors, grasping the possibilities of this favored site, 
 sought to add to, rather than detract from its magnificence. It is 
 located on a bluff varying from seventy-five to one hundred feet above 
 Lake Michigan, with a delightful stretch of sandy beach forming the 
 boundary of the waters. This bluff is a dream, so tender and artistic 
 has been the care bestowed upon it. It trends inward and outward 
 in corrugated sections, and here the landscapist has draped with the 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 loveliest collection of tree and shrub growth, much of it indigenous, 
 a number of small trails or by-ways leading to the water. It is all 
 so natural that one feels as if no hand ever directed those downward 
 trending, shaded by-ways which are a part of the magnificent park 
 on the plateau above, for Lake Forest has preserved much of its lake 
 front as a public pleasure ground. 
 
 Intercepted by curving ravines, the streets take their way accord- 
 ingly by the aid of bridges, and the whole of the city is as far as the 
 boundary of the electric road and the Chicago and North-Western 
 Railroad, as one big domain of curving highways and byways shaded 
 by the richest of tree growth. Very few of the fine homes are visible 
 from the street, as the grounds adjoining each are undulating parks. 
 Gardens are brought into subtle view through the most charming 
 vistas of lordly tree growth. The landscape architect who conceived 
 this exquisite method of designing a city was a Mr. Hotchkiss of 
 St. Louis. 
 
 Lake Forest is a college center and as such it was devised. If 
 environment has, as we believe, anything to do with the moulding of 
 character, what ought we to expect of those who are privileged to 
 attend college under conditions which tend to develop all that is 
 best in young manhood and young womanhood. It is little wonder 
 that Alma Mater at Lake Forest draws the student body into closer 
 affiliation with the true spirit of brotherhood, and that her sons and 
 daughters seek, through their active alumni associations, to make the 
 annual gatherings suggestive of the coming together of one family. 
 
 In February, 1856, the Lake Forest Association came into being. 
 It was conceived by those who desired to establish an educational 
 institution within a country environment ; remote from Chicago, but 
 at the same time near enough to the latter to derive metropolitan 
 advantages. Thirteen hundred acres were purchased by this organiza- 
 tion. Half of this acreage was set apart as Association property, and 
 Lake Forest was platted and recorded in 1857, each alternate lot 
 being assigned as a university endowment, sixty-two acres set apart 
 as an inalienable campus. 
 
 In 1 86 1 Lake Forest was incorporated as a city, and by an Act 
 of the Legislature in 1865, the title of the Lind University under 
 which the charter was granted to the proposed institution when first 
 under contemplation, was changed to that of the Lake Forest Univer- 
 sity. The first steps toward establishing a preparatory school for boys 
 was in the fall of 1858, when the Lake Forest Academy came into 
 being. In 1869 a similar school was established for girls by means of 
 a thirty-five thousand dollar legacy from the Rev. William Montague 
 Ferry of Grand Haven, Michigan, and Ferry Hall was born. 
 
 In 1870 the Lake Forest Hotel and Manufacturing Company pur- 
 chased three hundred acres of the endowment lands, and on the 
 shores of the Lake, erected a very fine hotel six stories in height and 
 thoroughly equipped. For five years the company conducted this 
 hostelry at a loss, and in order to cancel its indebtedness it turned 
 over the hotel and its twelve acres of park to the University. A 
 commodious and convenient building was now in the hands of the 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 trustees, and a college was organized. The Rev. Robert W. Patter- 
 son, D.D., of the Second Presbyterian Church, Chicago, came to the 
 college as its first president, serving in that capacity until 1878. 
 
 Until September, 1876, there was no collegiate institute of high 
 grade, not under State control, where a woman might receive the 
 same educational facilities as those offered to men, and on the date 
 named, eight young men and four young women entered Lake Forest 
 College, as pioneers in the system of co-education. In 1887 the 
 college building was destroyed by fire. One hundred thousand dollars 
 was quickly raised for a new building, and in 1878 the Rev. Daniel 
 S. Gregory, D.D., of Wooster University, came to the presidency. 
 
 The building now known as College Hall was erected in 1878, 
 chapel, library, recitation rooms and dormitories being under one roof. 
 The Academy building was destroyed by fire in 1879, but the same 
 year a new Academy, and three other structures, were erected. 
 
 Most of the present College buildings are monuments to the kindly 
 benefactions of Lake Forest's distinguished citizens. These structures 
 not only add extension to college facilities but the artistic atmosphere 
 is enhanced by the well selected plans of exterior and interior. The 
 Durand Institute, the Lois Durand Hall, the Calvin Durand Commons, 
 the Alice Home, are all associated with the beneficence of one family; 
 and the same might be said of the charming group of buildings known 
 as Reid Hall, the Lily Reid Memorial Chapel, and the Reid Library 
 and Cloister, the Blackstone Hall and the Blackstone dormitories and 
 the Harlan Hall, while Mr. Andrew Carnegie (not a resident) but 
 of public library fame, donated a Science Hall. 
 
 In short, Lake Forest College shows a group of finely equipped 
 structures, designed for the work of its students, collectively as well 
 as individually, while its faculty, under the aggressive and progressive 
 spirit of President Scholte Nollen, are pushing toward efficiency in 
 the several departments of learning and study, with the result that 
 the past year is characterized by the largest enrollment of students 
 in the history of the College. Of the eighteen members composing 
 the body of trustees, twelve are residents of Lake Forest, four of 
 Chicago, one of Evanston and one of Milwaukee. Mr. John V. Farwell 
 is president of the official board, while the name of Mr. Cyrus H. 
 McCormick appears on the roll of most of the active committees. 
 
 A unique feature of the College student life is found in the fact 
 that both men and women are housed and fed upon the campus, the 
 men rooming in four dormitories with every modern convenience for 
 their well-being, taking their meals at the Calvin Durand Commons, 
 while the women students live in the beautiful Lois Durand Hall, 
 its accommodation providing for sixty-two in a home that is ideal in 
 every respect. 
 
 Lake Forest, with its blessed out-of-doors significance, with a 
 water supply of the purest, with a sewage system of the best, with 
 streets kept in condition by a top dressing that precludes any possi- 
 bility of inconvenience from dust, with neither smoke of factory nor 
 other undesirable structures at hand, presents many advantages to 
 college students seeking an environment conducive to health and the 
 best educational facilities. Its college campus is an inspiration. 
 
 Page forty-nine 
 
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 There, while the last century was in budding promise for American 
 progressiveness in empire-building, the Pottawattomies, one of the 
 most aggressive as well as intelligent of the Indian tribes, trod the 
 trails with softly-moccasined feet, in pursuit of the gentle and graceful 
 creature of the forest, which abounded in this vicinity. 
 
 Today, glad voices mingle in enthusiasm as the modern sports, 
 football, basketball, baseball and track exercises occupy their respect- 
 ive places of merit as a pastime amid much of the original forest 
 environment, for Lake Forest has zealously guarded its native tree 
 growth. 
 
 One of its leading thoroughfares preserves in its title its former 
 significance. Deerpath Avenue was an old hunting trail, while the 
 Deerpath Inn occupies the former site of a hunter's cabin. Before 
 its evolution into the present, neat, well-equipped hostelry, however, 
 it was one of the early homesteads of Lake Forest, having been built 
 by the late Colonel Johnson and occupied by him and his family for 
 many years. Nestled in its beautiful tree growth, the Deerpath Inn, 
 which is just east of the charmingly arranged depot of the Chicago 
 and Milwaukee Electric Railroad, presents an attractive feature as 
 one enters Lake Forest at this particular point. All business structures 
 are west of the railroad, the east side being devoted to residence and 
 college purposes. 
 
 The Onwentsia Club of Lake Forest has long been associated with 
 equine sports as well as with that of golf. Its annual horse shows 
 are a feature of entertainment eagerly sought and thoroughly well 
 appreciated by North Shore residents who have not lost all interest 
 in that which constitutes breeding and style in this noble animal as 
 well as good equestrianship and easy and graceful driving, on the 
 part of both men and women. 
 
 Should Lake Forest develop its shore line as is anticipated, it will 
 become one of the most perfect centers for aquatic sports, as well as 
 the most artistically finished line of shore on either of the Great 
 Inland Lakes. Mrs. Harold F. McCormick has given this subject 
 much thought and has had the project put into practical form by 
 engineers who are authorities on the subject by issuing an illustrated 
 booklet in which are given estimates of the proposed work of con- 
 struction, each part of the work being itemized in separate expense. 
 The idea is to have lagoons for sports, to establish a yacht harbor 
 opposite the public park whose dimensions shall accommodate the 
 largest steam yachts, as well as the smaller craft sailing the waters 
 of Lake Michigan, and afford a refuge for yachts coasting the shore 
 line or running long racing distances on the Lake. The project is a 
 feasible one, and the motive of its originator calls for appreciation. 
 Lake Michigan, as we know, is anything but encouraging to aquatic 
 sports. There are no adequate shelter places for such outside the 
 city limits of Chicago. A properly equipped water front would add 
 to the many advantages already possessed by this queen city of the 
 North Shore. 
 
 Page fifty-one 
 
Page fifty-two 
 
m££ 
 
 ■ I • ■■ ■ 
 
 Charles S. Frost, Architect 
 
 NEW PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH 
 Highland Park, 111. 
 
 HIGHLAND PARK— THE NORTH SHORE 
 PIONEER OF COUNTRY SEATS 
 
 "The fathers — the men who thought 
 Of all the future held, 
 And, hearts uplifted, essayed and wrought 
 All the work their dreams compelled." 
 
 FOLLOWING Sheridan Road, after it passes the lovely home of 
 Mr. Frederick Morgan Steele, and the dear old homestead of 
 the Turnley family, in Highland Park, the highway curves 
 northward in close proximity to the Lake, until reaching the southern 
 boundary of Fort Sheridan Government Reservation, it trends west- 
 ward and entering the latter, again proceeds northward. During this 
 time the tourist has been covering a site of traditional import in 
 connection with the early beginnings of this beautiful home city. 
 Apart from the fact that all this territory, as well as that lying south- 
 ward, is of Indian legendary significance, its evolution into the city 
 of today, possesses tradition and legend of equal interest. 
 
 Just within the enclosure of the reservation is the site of one of 
 the earliest, ambitious undertakings on this portion of the North Shore. 
 In 1845 a sawmill and a warehouse were erected, while a pier of con- 
 siderable length reached like a long arm out into the lake. The site 
 was known as St. Johns, and for a period it received quite a boom, 
 for many settlers found their way here, and home-building began in 
 earnest. But the title to the land became involved in litigation and 
 the enterprise was finally abandoned, while the town plat was declared 
 void. This small beginning was but the prelude to the other singing 
 activities that were to soon begin on its southern border, and which 
 
 Page fifty-three 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 THE OLD PORT CLINTON LIGHTHOUSE 
 
 were destined to evolve themselves into that grand orchestration of 
 Nature, among the harmonies of which "Home, Sweet Home!" 
 became the leading theme toward a City Beautiful. 
 
 Port Clinton, as this second venture toward a town was known, 
 had its site also on the Lake shore, while its promoters cherished the 
 ambition that it would be not only a rival of Little Fort, but possibly 
 of both Milwaukee and Chicago. Ambitions ran at fever heat in those 
 days, for everything was couleur de rose to those who came and dared. 
 This second town made a most promising start in 1850. A steam 
 sawmill was doing a thriving business, and from its pier, even of more 
 extensive proportions than its predecessor, were shipped large quan- 
 tities of wood and lumber. 
 
 Tradition says that 200,000 feet of oak plank was shipped in one 
 year from this pier to Chicago for the building of plank roads. Large 
 quantities of wood for fuel, together with wagon materials, and " ships 
 knees" were also loaded into the white-winged vessels that had now 
 begun to skim the waters of the Lake in the interests of commerce. 
 In the manufacture of "ships knees" Port Clinton became a close 
 rival of Little Fort, both places shipping to New York and Baltimore. 
 
 Westward from the lake the farmers had begun to grow grain, 
 and the warehouse at Port Clinton held this in storage while awaiting 
 shipment. The United States Government had established and main- 
 tained a lighthouse here, and soon a brickyard was started, the father 
 of the late Washington Hesing, one of Chicago's mayors, being the 
 projector of the same. A postoffice was established in 1850, and a 
 
 Page fifty-four 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Photo by Benin 
 
 HOME OF MR. FRANK P. HAWKINS 
 
 Highland Park, 111. 
 (The third house built on the east side) 
 
 wagon express. It is said that the postmaster slept with the mail bag 
 under his bed, and his gun under his pillow. 
 
 Just at the eastern termination of the lovely Ravine Drive in 
 Highland Park another little community budded into life and did 
 considerable business in the shipping of wood and lumber from a 
 point of vantage known as " Stowell's Pier." In 1854 cholera found 
 its victims in both of these little bustling, thriving lumber sites, and 
 the first to succumb to its dire effects was Andrew Steele, who had 
 been the leading spirit in the Port Clinton project, and was its most 
 prominent merchant. His wife died the same day, while others in the 
 vicinity, as well as throughout the county, succumbed to the same 
 epidemic. But for these unforeseen circumstances Port Clinton might 
 have developed into a lumber region, and the forest growth, that is 
 now such a marvel of beauty in Highland Park, have degenerated into 
 unsightly stumps. 
 
 After the Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad had established a 
 station, effort was made by the Port Clinton Land Company to build 
 a town in its vicinity. The present hotel, west of the depot, is a 
 pioneer structure of that day and was then known as the "Central." 
 This particular site was platted in 1855, and among the stockholders 
 of the company appear the names of most of the substantial business 
 men of that time, all residents of Chicago. One of these, Mr. Walter 
 
 Page fifty-five 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 S. Gurnee, ultimately purchased all the stock of the company, and 
 became the owner of its property. 
 
 In 1867 a special charter was granted to the Highland Park 
 Building Company by Act of the General Assembly, and a corporation 
 embodying the above title was then organized, and Mr. Gurnee sold 
 the entire property of the Port Clinton Land Company to the Highland 
 Park Building Company. The stockholders of the latter were mostly 
 citizens of Chicago, and, Mr. Frank P. Hawkins was appointed its 
 general agent and manager. In 1869 Highland Park was incor- 
 porated as a city and Mr. Hawkins became its first mayor. He still 
 lives in one of the first three homes erected east of the railroad in 
 that city, and is the pioneer builder of the first ten residences erected 
 between Highland Park and Glencoe. 
 
 Courtesy Bahr, Bowen Co., Landscape Engineers 
 
 WAVERLY AVENUE BRIDGE 
 Reinforced Concrete, Designed by H. L. Bowen 
 
 The Port Clinton lighthouse, having served its purpose, was 
 abandoned, but stood as an old landmark, picturesque yet pathetic 
 in its ruined and unkempt condition until about ten years ago, when 
 it was destroyed. But its tradition remains, and the writer of this 
 present work, has been fortunate enough to gather a few of the inter- 
 esting legends associated with it. The lighthouse projected some 
 distance from the present bluff where Sheridan Road, after trending 
 eastward, curves to the north, giving a broad, expansive view of the 
 lake. On the bluff itself was a fine orchard and garden for the keeper 
 of the lighthouse and his family. Its first and only keeper was Owen 
 Monaghan. The bit of parchment containing his appointment is one 
 of the precious heirlooms of a daughter, born in the lighthouse, and 
 her children. It was a proud day when the Port Clinton mail brought 
 the following: 
 
 Page -fifty-six 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 "Treasury Department, Washington, D. C, July 1st, 1856. 
 
 "Sir, you are appointed Keeper of the Lighthouse at Port Clinton, Illinois, at 
 a salary of Three Hundred and Fifty Dollars per ann." 
 
 (Signed) James Gu — (the rest of signature undecipherable) 
 
 Secretary. 
 To Owen Monaghan. 
 
 Deer abounded in the neighboring forest, and the lighthouse keeper 
 shot many a one on the edge of the bluff. Wolves were not altogether 
 strangers at this period and in this vicinity the children's "bogey" 
 was "Hush! the wolf will hear you cry!" 
 
 On the site now occupied by a charming home in the Spanish 
 mission style of architecture, and bearing the pretty Spanish designa- 
 tion of " Miralago, " meaning "Behold the Lake!" the view of its 
 waters from this point being superbly grand, originally stood the 
 homestead of the Monaghan family. On the edge of a small ravine 
 that picturesquely cuts through a portion of the lawn, is seen a 
 magnificent specimen of weeping willow. When the wife of the light- 
 house keeper was a young woman she planted a sprig of willow — 
 never dreaming it would grow — which had been brought to her by a 
 Catholic priest from the grave of the Great Napoleon. In its alien 
 environment it grew and flourished, until now it has become a land- 
 mark of wonderful grace and beauty. 
 
 A little distance westward, and in a home, the center of which 
 was built for a schoolhouse by the Port Clinton Company and which 
 was also used for religious purposes, resides Mrs. Mary Josephine Cox, 
 a married daughter of Sarah and Owen Monaghan. Mrs. Cox was 
 born in the lighthouse. She has this remembrance of the wreck of 
 the Lady Elgin: A body of a well-dressed woman having on a hoop 
 skirt and wearing a long gold chain attached to a watch, being washed 
 ashore in the vicinity of the lighthouse and the identity being estab- 
 lished some long time after the remains had been laid to rest. The 
 little red brick schoolhouse which followed the pioneer structure of 
 frame, is still a feature of this neighborhood, being used as a boy's 
 club. In early days, it, too, was used for religious services. 
 
 The site of the Moraine Hotel is also included in this old Port 
 Clinton venture. The following legend is associated with the ravine 
 that gashes this property, in a horseshoe curve formation. During 
 the time of the construction of the Illinois and Michigan canal, in 
 1855, a band of counterfeiters were unearthed here. Everything of 
 their outfit, with the exception of the counterfeit plates, was dis- 
 covered and two of the men were captured, tried and committed. 
 The third, who was the maker of the plates, could not be found. 
 
 Twenty years afterward Judge H. W. Blodgett in driving home 
 to Waukegan from Chicago, when in the neighborhood of Deerfield, 
 overtook an old man toiling along by the wayside. The Judge proffered 
 him a seat in his vehicle, and the man became chatty and appeared 
 to know the Judge, although his name had no significance to the latter. 
 Before Judge Blodgett set the man down at his destination he had 
 promised to accept at some future time an invitation to call at the 
 home of his companion, who intimated he had a "great curiosity" 
 
 Page fifty-seven 
 
k - 
 
 Page fifty-eight 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 that might "interest" him. A day came when the Judge recalled his 
 promise, and having time on hand, went to see the old man. He 
 recalled to the mind of the eminent jurist the trial of the counter- 
 feiters, in which he, the Judge, then a young, bright attorney, had 
 a part. Then inviting him to an inner room, in which was a bed, 
 the host turned up one of the mattresses and disclosed to view the 
 engraved plates used in the making of the counterfeit bonds! 
 
 "The statute of limitation has expired, Judge," said the old man 
 grimly, "or I would not have dared to show you these, but they are 
 my work. I have never left the county; have had the plates all the 
 time in my possession, and never even changed my name. You 
 lawyers are not so smart, after all!" The Judge acknowledged it 
 with a laugh. He knew, as the counterfeiter had intimated, the case 
 was outlawed. 
 
 As in the traditions of other cities along the North Shore the little 
 dun-colored structures had dotted the landscape in Highland Park, 
 even before the platting of the site of St. Johns. Legends of the 
 log cabin period should be cherished, for, after all, is it not the man 
 who blazed the trail, he who came to the wilderness with a " faith 
 all glorious" to make a home for himself and those dear to him, of 
 whom the American poet that is yet to arrive, shall sing? Yes, our 
 Homer will come, for the Iliad of this Middle West has yet to be 
 written. So let us never forget that "we only hold the comfort 
 within and the peace without by grace of the men of old." 
 
 About seventy-seven years ago, a family started in an ox-team 
 from Erie, Pennsylvania, to make a home in the new country north 
 of Chicago, now within the township of Deerfield, and in a straight 
 line on Central Avenue west of the Green Bay Road. The little daughter, 
 now a woman of eighty-six years, still hale and hearty, was held in 
 the arms of her mother for safety as they passed over the corduroy 
 roads. This family settled on one hundred acres of land, where a log 
 cabin was built, and, as in most of these pioneer homes of like struc- 
 ture, it was provided with two doors immediately opposite each other. 
 There was reason for this architectural design. 
 
 Wood was the only fuel, and huge logs were used to retain the 
 heat. When the logs were ready a yoke of oxen would be stationed 
 outside the open door opposite the other open door through which 
 the log was to be brought. A chain was fastened to the yoke of 
 oxen and the end trailed across the floor and attached to the log, 
 which had first been drawn into position near the other door. The 
 oxen were now urged into action and the log would be drawn to a 
 place where it might easily be rolled to the hearth. 
 
 The child in question grew to young womanhood, and, in the 
 meantime, her brother had become acquainted with a young man 
 about his own age, in Chicago, who had also come from the east to 
 look for opportunity for investment. This young man had been offered 
 four blocks of land in the vicinity of Chicago Avenue for eight hundred 
 dollars! Before coming to any decision he went with his friend to 
 their country home in Deerfield. Here he found he could get eighty 
 acres for eight hundred dollars. Perhaps the bright and interesting 
 sister of his friend had something to do with his decision in favor of 
 
 Page fifty-nine 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 the farm. Be this as it may, it was a ease of love at first sight, and 
 in due course Philip Brand married and settled down to his future 
 responsibilities in a home built of logs. 
 
 To this couple were born eight children — five sons and three 
 daughters. Of this family, four sons and two daughters survive, all 
 of whom are still living in the township of Deerfield, some of them 
 long time citizens of Highland Park. Soon after her marriage, 
 Mrs. Brand, in the preparation of breakfast reached for the coffee, 
 which was in a small cupboard built against the wall. She felt a sharp 
 sensation of pain in one of her fingers, and quickly withdrawing her hand, 
 in a frightened voice told her husband she had been bitten by a mouse. 
 
 The young husband looked at the wound but said nothing. He 
 took a lighted tallow dip and investigated the cupboard. There, 
 coiled on a plate, lay a rattlesnake. After disposing of the same he 
 ran to the nearby neighbors and told them what had happened. They 
 went to his wife, while he — for no one had a horse — ran for a doctor, 
 the nearest being stationed at Dutchman's Point, some twelve miles 
 distant ! 
 
 The early settlers were more or less familiar with a kind of " first 
 aid" remedy and they administered to the needs of the young wife, 
 binding the arm tightly from wrist to shoulder, and it was the " blood- 
 letting" period of the medical fraternity! However, Mrs. Brand suf- 
 fered no material injury. She still bears the scar, a memento of those 
 early, anxious days. This story is related to illustrate one of the many 
 dangers to which the log cabin dwellers were subjected. The women 
 required brave hearts and nerves of steel. And in these qualifications 
 the pioneer mothers of the North Shore were not found wanting. 
 
 In 1872-3, the southern half of the city of Highland Park was put 
 into the hands of Cleveland and French, landscape architects, to plan 
 toward an evolution of highways and byways that should be artistic 
 as well as practicable, for the promoters of the project had long since 
 resolved that the city should be devoted to the fostering of country 
 homes. For assurance that the projectors and landscape architects 
 succeeded in their individual parts, it is only necessary to take just 
 a glimpse at the Highland Park of today. The French, named in this 
 partnership is no less a personage than W. M. R. French, whose name 
 figures large in the evolution of the Art Institute of Chicago, and 
 who for many years has been its able director. Mr. French had grad- 
 uated from Harvard in 1864, practicing civil engineering and land- 
 scape gardening for seven years before he, as a member of the firm 
 named, sought to untangle the forest-bound and ravine-gashed site 
 of Highland Park. The highways, no matter how much they trend 
 in waving beauty toward and over the wooded ravines which are 
 bridged, find their final outlet to one main leading street bounded 
 by the railroad. 
 
 Highland Park has always been a city of good roads. The writer 
 recalls these roads some twenty-five years ago. They were a delight 
 in driving, even then. Today they are simply magnificent. The 
 beautiful spirit manifested by this burgh in their careful thought of 
 the stranger within their gates — each street being clearly defined by 
 name which is printed on neat guide posts at street intersections — is 
 
 Page sixty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 only equalled by their generous home hospitality. To visit Highland 
 Park is to be brought within an atmosphere of old-time hospitality, 
 coupled with a modern up-to-dateness that is simply enchanting. It 
 is the blending of the true and the beautiful in life, this rare combina- 
 tion of refining influences that has ever made Highland Park a desirable 
 home city. 
 
 In entering Highland Park, the Sheridan Road takes its way 
 through Ravinia on its southern border, in close proximity to the 
 Lake, where one may still find superb acreages for those desiring the 
 water front. Just east of the magnificent Ravinia Park, and at this 
 outlet's intersection with the Sheridan Road, is a tableland of some- 
 thing less than twenty acres, rising eighty feet above the Lake, and 
 belted with timber. The bluffs at this particular point have assumed 
 corrugations that suggest sculptor's chisel. On the plateau above 
 and within shelter of the timber, once stood a log cabin — the home 
 of the settler who cleared and farmed the land in the long ago. Except 
 the clearing there is nothing to suggest the home, that once com- 
 manded an expansive view of the Lake. But a pathetic little legend 
 is associated with the spot. There was a well dug here and excellent 
 water obtained, but the two young children of the tiller of the soil, 
 met their death by falling into the well. This fair acreage, lifting in 
 lovely contour from the Lake, with all its woodland sweetness and 
 charm, awaits the coming of the builder of a country seat, for this 
 is its destiny. (Illustrations page 62.) 
 
 Highland Park, as most of the North Shore communities, found 
 its most prosperous development in home-building, east of the rail- 
 road and in the immediate vicinity of the Lake. And like all these 
 communities, too, it has but recently awakened to the fact, that west 
 of this boundary line, and at an altitude of from one hundred and 
 thirty to one hundred and fifty feet above the Lake, lies a most fair 
 land of promise, and whether she recognizes it, the fact remains, that 
 Highland Park between the county line and, perhaps, a little to the 
 north of the Exmoor Golf Grounds on the Green Bay Road, has the 
 richest and finest bit of the Skokie Valley of any other city in its 
 historic vicinity. The writer, who has known this section, and who 
 has tramped over it, from Evanston to and including Lake Forest, for 
 years, knows whereof she writes. " Upland, Vale and Grove, Seen 
 from a Highway of Historic Import," was the thought born of this 
 inspiration from the Green Bay Road and the beautiful Valley of the 
 Skokie, seen in the vicinity of Highland Park. 
 
 "Skokie?" The Indian for "marsh," says one; "bad squaw," in 
 the same language, says another. But have you seen the Skokie after 
 a dry Summer and Fall? If you have you will know that the Indian 
 named it rightly when he gave to it the designation of " Waub-Skokie, " 
 meaning "land fire." Its wonderful peat beds have almost been 
 consumed since the Indian so designated it. Observing its red, steady 
 glow creeping sinuously over the earth, and upland and grove bathed 
 in ruddy phantasmagoria, he was awed into reverent mood, and 
 among all his gods, that of "Waub-Skokie, " the "land-fire" manitou, 
 became associated with a mysticism which he could not probe. 
 
 At an early period of the settlement of Lake County log cabins 
 
 Page sixty-one 
 
THE BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK 
 
 PLATEAU ON BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK 
 
 Page sixty-two 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 were dotted here and yon along the Green Bay Road in the vicinity 
 in question. These gradually gave place to structures of frame and 
 of brick, the present Stipe homestead being the pioneer in the latter 
 material. A Catholic Mission church, "St. Mary's in the Woods," 
 was here ki 1846, intimating there were settlers in that vicinity of 
 the faith represented. And how far they traveled, the majority of 
 the members of this congregation, in order to attend mass and receive 
 that spiritual comfort from which their sojourn in the wilderness had 
 seemed to deprive them ! This little log church was not in any way 
 associated with Marquette's missions, as has been erroneously taught 
 and accepted. Neither Marquette nor his immediate followers were 
 in this neighborhood. He was a missionary of the Jesuit Order, and 
 it was the same religious Order that promulgated the setting up of 
 the little log church by the side of the old Indian trail — converted 
 into a military road in 1835 — an d the same Order that devised its 
 second use as a schoolhouse during the week day. This can only be 
 the chain of circumstances connecting it with the name of the good 
 Father Marquette. 
 
 Today, a country home occupies the site of the burial ground that 
 was attached to the little log mission church, while the immediate 
 site of the latter is in the southeast corner of the charming lawn and 
 garden fronting the old-time trail. How quickly historic landmarks 
 disappear! And who would recognize this particular vicinity, not 
 having seen it in many years? The old is little blended with the new, 
 for the finely cultivated farmlands, and the extensive stock farms 
 have disappeared. While the highway itself is macadamed and has 
 a top dressing which precludes dust, and along its smooth surface 
 speed the automobiles, where but yesterday wearily plodded the 
 ox-cart. 
 
 This is a vicinity of large acreages — the ideal site for country 
 seats — and here they are coming as fast as appreciation of the locality 
 is accepted. From off the old trail, trend eastward the most charmingly 
 macadamed, curving highways. The lay of the land is undulating and 
 crested with tree growth of more or less interest, while adown the 
 highways trending westward are glimpses of the valley beyond. The 
 little red schoolhouse that stood on the hill, and which became a 
 landmark at the corner of Roger Williams Avenue on the Green Bay 
 Road, has passed away. It is superseded by a noble structure on the 
 corner of Lincoln Avenue, in the midst of delightful parkways, and 
 commanding a view of the charming valley. 
 
 Near the county line the tourist is confronted by suggestions of 
 yesterday, in the form of farmhouses. The west entrance to Ravinia 
 Park is at this point. Yonder, overlooking the valley, is a frame 
 house which superseded the log cabin of one of the early settlers. 
 Four generations of the same family have trodden these byways of the 
 past and are now far afield in every other occupation but farming. 
 The representative of the second generation is a hail and hearty man. 
 He attended school in "St. Mary's in the Woods;" he also recalls 
 memories of the soldiers passing over the Green Bay Road while on 
 their way to or from Green Bay, Wisconsin, and Chicago. Mr. Hesler 
 has kept pace with the times. He has not given any attention to 
 
 Page sixty-three 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 farming for years. His winters are spent in California or some other 
 congenial elime, while he returns to the "old farm" in summer as a 
 matter of sentiment, and here come his bonnie grandchildren from 
 some distant part of the state to spend their vacation, to climb the 
 trees which their great-grandfather planted, and slide from the roofs 
 of the unused buildings which "grandpa" erected in the long ago. 
 
 The women of Highland Park, organized into various clubs, are 
 very active in all that makes for a city healthful and beautiful. The 
 public park on the Lake front, is left in as natural a state as possible, 
 and on the broad sandy beach at the foot of the bluff on Central 
 Avenue, is a children's playground, equipped with every gymnastic 
 and aquatic device for the pleasure of the young folks. On a hot 
 day this summer the writer was amused for the best part of an hour 
 watching the youngsters launching a raft, the water part of the play- 
 ground being bounded eastward by a net-guard, to prevent the too 
 adventurous spirits from effectively playing "Columbus" or "Robin- 
 son Crusoe. " 
 
 The Exmoor Country Club is located in the picturesque Valley of 
 the Skokie. No more ideal environment can be conceived for a golf 
 course, with its lovely emerald-hued uplands and woodlands holding 
 within their tremulous distances an atmosphere that is invigorating 
 and inspiring. Schools and churches and a public library, aids to a 
 city set apart as Highland Park is, for all that is best in home-building, 
 impress the visitor with the fact that guardian spirits are watching 
 over the welfare of this lovely North Shore city. 
 
 ROGER WILLIAMS AVENUE, RAVINIA, ILL. 
 
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 THE ORGAN AND STAIRCASE AT "RIDGEWOOD' 
 (Built by owner) 
 Green Bay Road, Highland Park, 111. 
 From a Pencil Drawing by Miss I. M. Kimball 
 
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Photo by Bemm 
 
 HOME OF MR. R. J. BEATTY 
 5 55 South Sheridan Road Highland Park, 111. 
 
 Page hundred and two 
 
 "BRENTWOOD" 
 
 Home of Miss Grace Glidden 
 
 Highland Park. 111. 
 
Photo by Bemin 
 
 HOME OF MR. WALTER WARDROP 
 815 Lincoln Avenue. Highland Park, 111. 
 
 Photo by Ben 
 
 HOME OF MR. ROBERT SEYFARTH 
 
 South Sheridan Road, Highland Park. 111. 
 
 Page hundred and three 
 
Photo by Benmi 
 
 HOME OF MRS. MAUD HOLBROOK SHANNON 
 116 Moraine Road, Highland Park, 111. 
 
 "BOSCOBEL" 
 
 HOME OF THE MISSES IRWIN AND MRS. H. R. RITCHIE 
 
 222 Maple Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 
 
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 HOME OF MR. FRITZ BAHR 
 Laurel Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 
 
 Photo by Bcimii 
 
 "TIMBERTOP" 
 
 HOME OF MR. GEORGE C. EBELING 
 
 Ravinia, 111. 
 
 Page hundred and seven 
 
HOME OF MR. BURT J. FITZGERALD 
 868 Lincoln Avenue, Highland Park, 111. 
 
 Patton & Miller, Architects 
 
 THE NEW UNION CHURCH 
 Glencoe, 111. 
 
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HOME OF MR. C. P. WHITNEY 
 1637 Judson Avenue, Evanston, 111. 
 
 HOME OF MR. FRED KAEMPFER 
 7400 North Ashland Avenue, Birchwood, Chicago 
 
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HALL, HOME OF MR. E. D. MOENG 
 io5 4_Columbia Avenue, Rogers Park, Chicago 
 
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HOME OF MR. ROBERT S. SMITH 
 Cumnor Road, Kenilworth, 111. 
 
 THE HIGHWAY SOUTHWARD TO CHICAGO 
 
 When the city's rush is over, and the monthly ticket shown, 
 And the platform's crowd has scattered like leaves in Autumn blown, 
 Then the engine feels the throttle, as the racer feels the whip, 
 And sends its drivers whirling for its little homeward trip. 
 
 Horace Spencer Fiske 
 
 IN the vicinity of the pretty little station of Braeside, Chicago & 
 North Western Railroad, or at the nearby county line station 
 of the Chicago & Milwaukee Electric Railroad, and on the Cook 
 County side, is seen a venerable tree of quaint and almost forlorn 
 aspect. It is an Indian trail tree. A farmer, who has been a long- 
 time resident on the Green Bay Road, is fond of declaring that this 
 is "no trail tree." In short he ignores all tradition associated with 
 the Indian. He asserts that within his remembrance, 1866, a tornado 
 "twisted" this particular tree. With all due respect to his observa- 
 tion of the "tornado's" havoc, those who are authorities on the sub- 
 ject, having made a study in the timbered regions frequented by 
 the Indian, know for certain that this was an Indian trail tree long 
 before the "tornado" undertook to rend one of its limbs. The 
 members of the Lake Shore Country Club have shown a praiseworthy 
 sentiment, as well as a keen appreciation of an old historic land- 
 mark, by affording it the protection of a neat fence against the 
 vandalism that walketh abroad to destroy. 
 
 Page hundred and thirty-five 
 
INDIAN TRAIL TREE 
 COUNTY LINE ROAD AND LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB 
 
 Page hundred and thirty-six 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 That the tree in question was in its sapling period bent by the 
 Indian, in order to designate a particular route, there is no doubt. 
 The early hunters appreciated the significance of such landmarks; 
 the settlers coming later, and at a period when the Indian was leaving 
 the territory, also realized that they were as signposts by the way. 
 The settler himself blazed a trail, either by cutting down timber or 
 by hacking off portions of the bark, and the North Shore is rife with 
 legends of this nature, most wonderful stories being told of how 
 "mother's father blazed the trees while walking toward Chicago," 
 or "to Waukegan." As a rule, the trails of the Indian, particularly 
 when marked by these peculiar trees, proved guide sufficient for the 
 early settlers. 
 
 Cook County was named as a compliment to the Hon. Daniel P. 
 Cook, member of Congress, and Glencoe, which forms the county's 
 northern line on the North Shore, was originated by the same Walter 
 S. Gurnee whose name figures in the merging of Port Clinton into 
 Highland Park. Mr. Gurnee was impressed by the glen-like aspect 
 of the vicinity, and then gallantly added his wife's maiden name 
 of Coe. Glencoe for many years nestled itself within such rich wood- 
 land environment as to forbid an attempt at acquaintance. It is 
 now a suburb of distinction, having many beautiful homes, some 
 good business houses and a bank, and its citizens have just erected 
 a magnificent Union Church, costing forty thousand dollars. 
 
 The Green Bay Road in this vicinity trends eastward, being inter- 
 sected by the railroad, then diverging northward, it is a beautifully 
 paved highway, paralleling the tracks for some distance when it again 
 turns westward and northward. Melville E. Stone of Daily News 
 and Associated Press fame, built the first pretentious home in Glencoe, 
 bridging a ravine on Sheridan Road before the necessary material 
 could be brought to the selected site. Sheridan Road at this time 
 was little more than a wagon trail, and impassable at certain seasons 
 of the year. The Lake Shore Country Club and the Skokie Country 
 Club are both within the corporate limits of Glencoe. Street improve- 
 ments in the southern part of the village are being rapidly pushed 
 as are those in the adjoining suburb, Hubbard Woods. 
 
 This latter place was originally known as Taylorsport, after the 
 Taylor family, its earliest settlers. In 1870 David Gage of Chicago, 
 named it Lakeside, because of its proximity to the Lake. It is only 
 recently, however, since it has been designated Hubbard Woods, 
 that this charming tract of land has received the attention it deserved. 
 It is named after Gurdon S. Hubbard, who at one time, owned the 
 whole acreage comprising this site. As the Sheridan Road takes its 
 way in close proximity to the Lake, the slopes and curves present a 
 panorama of wonderful views. There are some charming homes in 
 this picturesque environment, and in the woodlands west of the rail 
 road, a very unique home has just been completed. It is built of 
 logs, but nothing about it to suggest the home of the early pioneer. 
 It is a pretentious affair, and was built and is owned by Adam Emory 
 Albright, who has become known as the painter of country children. 
 This country home is constructed of Oregon pine logs, sixty feet long 
 and ranging in diameter from twelve to fourteen inches. This unique 
 
 Page hundred and thirty-seven 
 
I'iiolo by Bemm 
 
 TRAIL TREE AT WILMETTE, ILL. 
 Tenth and Greenwood Avenues 
 
 Page hundred and thirty-eight 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 structure together with the artist's reputation, will surely bring fame 
 to Hubbard Woods. It will be interesting to read the legends of 
 the future in connection with the building of this home. How the 
 logs were hauled on a train of six flat cars to be again transported 
 by two teams of horses, two logs at a time, to the proposed site; the 
 many problems encountered in obtaining workmen who could put 
 the material together, for every log, as well as the oak window frames, 
 is held in place by spikes half an inch square and ten inches long! 
 
 Winnetka is an Indian word, signifying "beautiful place," and 
 no one will dispute its right to the title. Here may be found many 
 pretentious as well as artistic homes, charmingly environed in trees 
 and shrubbery. It has winding thoroughfares, with little parks at 
 street intersections. Its natural undulations are very pleasing, and 
 its outlook to the Lake delightful. The maple growth is simply 
 glorious, and in Autumn Winnetka's coloring rivals that of any other 
 North Shore village or city. The Sheridan Road takes its way 
 through the village one block west of the Lake. 
 
 Kenilworth, within the past year, has shown considerable awaken- 
 ing in the northern portion. Here quite a number of homes have 
 come into being, and streets laid out and paved in keeping with the 
 original plan of the site. From the " Book of the North Shore, — • 
 1 910," is culled the following paragraph of interest regarding this 
 particular vicinity: 
 
 "About fifteen miles north of Chicago is Kenilworth, which has 
 a marked individuality. Here was opportunity for landscape artist 
 and architect to work in unison, and here, too, it being the youngest 
 of the North Shore settlements, each could profit by the advantages 
 or disadvantages of the planning and building of the earlier com- 
 munities ; and to their credit, be it recorded, Kenilworth stands alone 
 in having made the best of all that Nature bestowed. Even Evanston, 
 as well as Highland Park and Rogers Park, have had to destroy in 
 modern times that which was planned and builded in earlier times. 
 Not so will it be with Kenilworth. The entrance to this lovely home 
 town is beyond reproach; its large fountain and cemented angles of 
 streets, together with its superb tree growth, suggest a park of some 
 magnitude and beauty. No straggling line of one-story stores, no 
 freaks of the builder of the "railroad" street offend the eye. The 
 noble forest growth of oak, elm, ash and other native trees have been 
 barely cleared to admit of residences being built, yet all is in order 
 and arranged with artistic taste. The large trees are trimmed so as 
 not to interfere, their tops forming a canopy of varied green in 
 summer, while in winter they are etched against the sky line or cast- 
 ing athwart the snow-covered lawns blue and purple traceries, such 
 as no artist could hope to imitate with any degree of success. Noth- 
 ing had stood in this wilderness of forest previous to its being platted 
 as a desirable residence site, except the wigwam of the Indian and 
 a solitary log cabin, which stood on the bluff, thirty-five feet above 
 the lake, and in which Elizabeth Ouilmette was married to Michael 
 Welch. Well paved avenues, over which much of the original forest 
 growth throws its grateful shade and protection, make of Kenilworth 
 a desirable home place." 
 
 Page hundred and thirty-nine 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 Wilmette is a live, active village. During the past five years it 
 has grown beyond comprehension; grown in beauty as well as in 
 strength. It was always a favored site. Nature did much for it, 
 and interest is shown in the preservation of its tree growth. There 
 are many lordly elms, trees that prove by their girth that they were 
 here while the Indian was in possession. There are a few trail trees 
 cherished in this neighborhood, and whether on private property or 
 on the boulevards, they are sacred to their particular environment. 
 The Ouilmette Country Club, located on the edge of the public park 
 fronting the Lake, forms one of the many social features associated 
 with this village. The enterprise of the Woman's Club is evidenced 
 in the beautiful club home erected by that organization, and which 
 is said to be the first club house of its kind devoted to the special 
 interests of a woman's organization built on the North Shore. Its 
 Village Hall is a monument to its originators. Pure and chaste in 
 design and finish it is unlike any other structure of its kind on the 
 North Shore, and its ensemble is such, that one feels as if one of 
 the temples of ancient Greece had been dropped into a more modern 
 environment and fitted to its alien surroundings with advantage. 
 Wilmette has much of traditional interest. It was named after the 
 wife of Antoine Ouilmette, a Frenchman, who married Archange, a 
 Pottawattomie maiden. Ouilmette was one of the first white settlers 
 in Chicago occupying one of the four cabins that constituted the 
 settlement of Chicago in 1803. There were born to the Ouilmettes 
 eight children, the names of whom appear in the several affidavits, 
 deeds and documents relating to the title to the reservation, upon 
 the site of which the greater portion of Wilmette, as well as a part 
 of Evanston, now stands. Ouilmette's marriage to Archange, the 
 Pottawattomie, is historical, for it is said to be the first North Shore 
 wedding of which there is any record. The wedding took place at 
 Gross Point in 1796. Ouilmette's daughter, Elizabeth, was twice 
 married. Her first husband was Michael Welch, who has the honor 
 of being designated not only the "first Irishman" in Chicago, but 
 the first of his nationality on the North Shore. His marriage with 
 Elizabeth Ouilmette took place on May 11, 1830, and in a log cabin 
 that stood until 1903 on the east side of Sheridan Road, two blocks 
 north of the Kenilworth water tower. 
 
 The North Shore channel of the Chicago Sanitary District has 
 its entrance from Lake Michigan in Wilmette, where a harbor has 
 been built and where the commissioners have created from the 
 material taken from the ditch a site for a park on its north bank. 
 At this point the Sheridan road will cross the channel over a hand- 
 some concrete bridge, which is nearing completion. The water flows 
 into the canal at the rate of one thousand cubic feet per second, 
 which is of sufficient force to dilute all sewage that may be turned 
 into it. Great possibilities for beautifying its banks through the 
 suburban residence sections is evident, and will, in all probability, 
 be considered seriously in some well organized association, such as 
 our Park Boards. The right of way of the channel is six hundred 
 feet in width; the canal is from twenty-six to thirty feet in width 
 at bottom, with a one hundred and thirty feet width at top, and 
 thirteen feet of depth, and the approximate cost is $2,500,000. 
 
 Page hundred and forty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Reaching Rogers Park the northern limits of Chicago are des- 
 ignated by the site of an old Indian trail. This thoroughfare was 
 for years known as "Indian Boundary." Its title should never have 
 been changed and the writer is glad to know that the Chicago His- 
 torical Society has entered a protest to this effect on its records. 
 "Indian Boundary" would always imply tradition; would signify 
 that which as time passes one is apt to forget. The northern section 
 of Rogers Park is designated "Birchwood." The whole suburb 
 might rightfully have claimed this designation, so prolific were the 
 birch trees here. 
 
 The Edgewater Golf Club, which for years made a beauty spot 
 of the southwest corner of Rogers Park, has its new grounds at the 
 intersection of Pratt and Ridge Boulevards — the latter being laid 
 over an old trail. The Birchwood Golf Club has its links adjoining 
 the historic Indian Boundary. 
 
 Quoting again from the "Book of the North Shore 1910." 
 
 "Before streets were opened the byways leading to the Lake, par- 
 ticularly east of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks — Sheridan 
 Road then being little more than a trail — the woodlands were rich 
 in flower growth. The hepatica, the violet and a host of other sweet 
 blossoms, together with a veritable riot of roses, made the months 
 of May and June a delight in this particular section. The cucumber 
 vine, with its delicate lace-like beauty, vied with woodbine, wild 
 grape and bittersweet in gracefully draping each defect of shattered 
 and fallen treegrowth. These same charming artists of the forest 
 persisted in veiling the real estate signs, as if in protest at their 
 intrusion. The stately elder with its broad umbels of cream-colored 
 and white blossoms, followed by the rich purple and red fruit, imparted 
 to the byways an ever- varying touch of form and hue. The great 
 charm of the Rogers Park woodlands, however, was its silver birch 
 growth, the "lady birch" as it is designated by some authorities. 
 Tenderest touches of green splashed with yellow in the spring; their 
 columns of silver imparting a striking note of beauty in the dense 
 and shadowy byways of summer; while autumn changed their delicate 
 foliage to veritable flakes of gold, and my Lady Birch then declared 
 herself Queen of the Woodlands ! In the winter they assumed a rare 
 individuality, standing like pillars of light in purpled shadows, and 
 outvieing the snow-blanketed earth in their brilliancy. Oh! how 
 radiant they appeared when caught in the slanting rays of a rose- 
 colored sunset ! And when Old Sol arose from his bed on the eastern 
 horizon of the Lake, how tenderly mysterious they became, quivering 
 with something akin to the emotion of a messenger who has some- 
 thing surprising to impart. You dear old birch trees! Why was 
 speech denied you? Our distinguished New England poet immor- 
 talized thee — 
 
 "Give me of your bark, 
 O Birch-Tree!" 
 
 "Lay aside your cloak, O birch-tree! 
 Lay aside your white-skin wrapper, 
 For the summer-time is coming, 
 And the sun is warm in heaven, 
 And you need no white-skin wrapper!" 
 Thus aloud cried Hiawatha. 
 
 Page hundred and forty-one 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 "There were many 
 ' Hiawathas,' before the 
 coming of the white man, 
 in the birchwoods on the 
 site of what is now called 
 Rogers Park, busy build- 
 ing canoes from the mate- 
 rial at hand. In a few 
 instances the birch tree 
 has been coaxed to remain 
 well cared for on private 
 property. 
 
 "The two Edge waters 
 and Argyle Park as Rogers 
 Park, form a part of the 
 municipality of Chicago. 
 Edgewater's founder was 
 Mr. J. Lewis Cochran. 
 He subdivided three 
 hundred and fifty acres, 
 putting in street im- 
 provements and building 
 some three hundred 
 houses. It required not 
 only a large amount of 
 capital, but unbounded 
 faith in the future. The 
 only transportation was 
 the Evanston branch of 
 the Chicago, Milwaukee 
 & St. Paul Railroad, with 
 terminus at the Union 
 Depot. In 1893, the elec- 
 tric surface road was 
 opened. Many of us re- 
 call the delight with which 
 we hailed this buzzing innovator, whose bumblebeeish vibrations 
 were as music to the ears of the long-suffering ' better transportation' 
 advocate. Then the 'trolley-parties' with which the road favored 
 its patrons ! We recall how the single track, interspersed here and 
 there with convenient sidings, pushed through byways, tangled and 
 overgrown with brushwood and trees. In the open car, on a summer 
 evening, this ride was particularly enjoyable, for trees and bushes 
 reaching out on either side swished against the invader in musical 
 protest, while the air was fragrant with woodsy sweets, and between 
 whiles, the Lake might be seen under the silvered sheen of moonlight. 
 Now the North Western Elevated carries a host of patrons over the 
 original Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks. 
 
 "While on this subject of transportation, a word for the enterprise 
 of Chicago's first railroad (1848), now generally designated as the 
 Chicago & North Western. It has passed through so many vicissi- 
 
 SILVER BIRCHES 
 
 Page hundred and forty-two 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 tudes that its evolution into the road of today reads like romance. 
 Witness now its finely equipped Milwaukee Division, for this has 
 been a power in the development of the North Shore suburbs and 
 towns. Its fine embankments and subways, its artistic stations in 
 an environment of parkway and gardens, have all helped toward 
 evolution from the country village, with its primitive methods, to 
 the fair and progressive suburbs of the city and the prosperous towns 
 and cities beyond." 
 
 Future traditions of Edgewater will ever be associated with the 
 fact that here, in "Paradise Flat," lived and wrote and died, the 
 talented authoress and deeply lamented Myrtle Reed. 
 
 Evanston is a beautiful city, ideal in its preservation of the forest 
 trees and in its system of well-paved and neatly kept thoroughfares. 
 The stranger is impressed with the fact that each individual Evan- 
 stonian takes a personal pride in the neat appearance of his city. 
 There are many beautiful homes, many dear, old-fashioned structures, 
 as well as those of more modern design and imposing appearance; 
 but all in an environment of emerald lawn, graceful shrub, clinging 
 vine and stately trees. The immediate Lake front has been preserved 
 for park purposes, considerable land having been redeemed from the 
 Lake itself; the famous Sheridan Road, as a rule, forming the western 
 boundary of this most perfect system of devoting a choice stretch 
 of land to the public good. This highway, which extends for thirty 
 miles northward from Chicago — it being a part of the latter's boule- 
 vard system — was conceived by an Evanstonian, the late Volney W. 
 Foster. Evanston 's beginnings center in the history of its University, 
 five hundred and sixty acres being purchased by the trustees in 1854, 
 for the purpose of developing this higher class education, and the 
 growth of the university is, to a certain extent, the development of 
 the city itself. Founded in love and in sincerity, is it wonder that 
 Evanston should later become known as the "classic" city of the 
 West? It received its name in honor of Dr. John Evans, who took 
 a very active part in securing the site for the University. Ten 
 students in a frame building in 1855! Over four thousand in hand- 
 some brick and stone edifices in 1911! 
 
 The highways and byways of the past in Evanston are of unusual 
 interest, and its Historical Society has been active in perpetuating 
 memories of the native people that roamed at will through its superb 
 forest environment, hunting the deer or other animals then familiar 
 to its vicinity. Besides the ever-present trail, the natural highway 
 of the Indian, has, as in other places along the North Shore, been 
 appropriated by the white man, and converted into well-paved 
 streets and boulevards, along which the automobile has taken right 
 of way; while Indian mounds and graves have been found in many 
 localities within the boundary of the city. Within two miles of its 
 limits, Father Pinet, in 1696, had his "Mission of the Guardian 
 Angel" among the Miami Indians, and here, in 1699, he was visited 
 by Saint Cosme and others, with Henry de Tonty as guide and pro- 
 tector, while on their way to the Illinois country, via the Chicago 
 portage. 
 
 Page hundred and forty-three 
 
Page hundred and forty-four 
 
THE LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB 
 Glencoe, 111. 
 
 THE FAVORITE PASTIME ON THE 
 NORTH SHORE 
 
 "The Royal and Ancient Game of Goff" 
 
 GOLF, or "goff," as it was designated in ancient Scotland, was 
 a pastime of record not only in Scotland but in England, long 
 before Columbus discovered America. Twelve years previous 
 to the landing of the Pilgrims a golf club had been established at 
 Blackheath, London, a site teeming with historic interest in the 
 traditions of Great Britain. 
 
 Ten years before Marquette passed in view of our North Shore, the 
 most famous of all golf clubs, that of St. Andrews, was established 
 in Scotland — for it is practically of Scotch origin — it is known as a 
 fascinating sport, so much so, that in 1457 a note of alarm was sounded 
 because of the fear that "the most important pursuit of archery" 
 would be neglected on its account. And soon a Scottish Act of 
 Parliament decreed that " futeball and golfe be utterly cryit down 
 and nocht usit." 
 
 No particular attention seems to have been given to this decree, 
 however, and a stronger one was issued in which "futeball and golfe" 
 are "forbidden." This edict was signed by James the Fourth, but 
 it was not long before this monarch became so infatuated with the 
 
 Page hundred and forty-five 
 
Page hundred and forty-six 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 Photo by Bemm 
 
 "THE ELM" 
 
 GLEN VIEW CLUB HOUSE 
 
 Golf, 111. 
 
 game that he set his own command at defiance and "joyneth" in 
 the "unprofitable sport." This monarch comes down to tradition 
 associated with golf as the first royal personage formally figuring 
 in the game. 
 
 James the Fifth and his daughter, the unhappy Mary Stuart, 
 also played golf. The latter was charged by her enemies in show- 
 ing a "shameless indifference" to the fate of her husband, when a 
 few days after his tragical end, she was seen "golfing." Charles the 
 First and his brother, Prince Henry, were devotees of the game. 
 This unfortunate monarch, while in the hands of the Scots at New- 
 
 Page hundred and forty-seven 
 
"REDCROFT" 
 
 HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM 
 
 Golf, 111. 
 
 "REDCROFT" 
 
 HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM 
 
 Golf, 111. 
 
 Page hundred and forty-eight 
 
-J& ■ *■ •- - ■'- ' J 
 
 Page'Jiundred and forty-nine 
 
GLEN VIEW CLU] 
 "Apartment R" 
 
 GLEN VIEW CLUB 
 "The Elm" and "Apartment C 
 
 Page hundred and fifty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PA ST AND PRESENT 
 
 castle and awaiting their surrender of his person to the English 
 Parliament, found much diversion in this ancient game. The golf 
 ball at this period was a circlet of leather, roughly stitched together 
 in sections, and containing a stuffing of feathers packed so tightly 
 as to render it as hard as a stone. It was twice the size of the present 
 ball and much less durable. 
 
 India, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the United States 
 m fact, everywhere that Scots congregate, cometh the sport that 
 imparts health and vigor, and which affords splendid relaxation 
 after sedentary habits connected with business. The fact that 
 women are taking an active part in the game predicts much for the 
 future, as this outdoor sport involves a covering of distances on foot, 
 an exercise which the women, as a rule, eschew. 
 
 It is little wonder that the North Shore, with its reaches of undulat- 
 ing country, should have proven a golfer's paradise. Whether Scots 
 were the originators of the sport in this particular vicinity, the writer 
 is not prepared to state, but the golf links are here and in an environ- 
 ment that even bonnie Scotland itself cannot outdo. 
 
 Lake Forest has its Onwentsia, Highland Park its Exmoor golf 
 links, both on sites that are exceedingly beautiful. While the Lake 
 Shore Country Club and the Skokie Club of Glencoe are on sites 
 designated by their individual titles, each in its own particular environ- 
 ment of scenic charm. The Evanston Golf Club has its links adjacent 
 to the drainage canal. The Glen View Club is a few miles west of 
 Evanston and on a very historic site. The North Branch of the 
 Chicago River passes through the links, and is suggestive of "trouble." 
 In the grounds and overlooking the links are two structures of Eliza- 
 bethan style of architecture. These are designated "Apartments 
 B and C," and are rented by members wishing to sojourn here with 
 their families. Apartment A was originally a brick farm house. 
 
 Here to the wilderness in 1836 came Robert Dewes. His family 
 French Huguenots, had held farmlands in Yorkshire, England, for 
 three hundred years. Descendants are still there. In the brick 
 house on the golf grounds was born the son of the pioneer farmer 
 in 1846. John Dewes sold the property to the Glen View Club. 
 Mr. Dewes now lives in a brick home on a rising slope just west of 
 the links, and with acreage enough to keep him occupied. For, as 
 he says, he is a "born farmer" and therefore feels the need of living 
 m close acquaintance with the soil. Another member of the family 
 an uncle of the present representative, also came to Chicago in the 
 early thirties, and was offered a tract of eighty acres for one dollar 
 and a quarter per acre, on what is now Lake Street west of the river 
 There is a little log cabin, built in 1836, for an Englishman by the 
 name of Swales, who was associated with Mr. Dewes' father. 
 
 The Glen View golf grounds occupy the site of the farm that 
 followed Indian occupation of the land. It is a site of intense 
 interest, traditionally, for here was a very important Indian village 
 and the earth has yielded relics of a past with which the average 
 man is totally unfamiliar. The balconies of the club house afford 
 vistas of this undulating country, and here is inspiration for both 
 poet and artist. 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-one 
 
GLEN VIEW LINKS 
 'Sweet Home" and the "Ball Bearing Stream' 
 
 LOG CABIN 
 Glen View Club 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-two 
 
lirffitei 
 
 **$ 
 
 ««s^ 
 
 THE SKOKIE COUNTRY CLUB 
 i. The Entrance. 2. The Club House. 3. The Summer House. 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-three 
 
Page hundred and fifty-four 
 
MICHAEL SWEENEY LOG CABIN 
 Fort Sheridan, 111. 
 
 PASSING VISTAS 
 
 It is necessary to look forward as well as backward. 
 
 Madame de Stael 
 
 ROCKLAND was the name of a little station on the west side of 
 the Chicago and Northwestern Railway, and somewhat north 
 of the present Lake Bluff station. After twenty years of service 
 it merged its identity into that of Lake Bluff, which in 1877, had 
 become a Methodist camp meeting ground. The position on the bluff 
 and its proximity to the Lake became sponsor for the newer name. 
 Later, Lake Bluff became the western Chautauqua center and large 
 crowds gathered on this picturesque site each season. Its great audi- 
 torium stood in an environment of forest and from its platform were 
 heard many of the leading orators of the day. It suffered a period 
 of depression and financial hindrance, and in 1895, the "Lake Bluff 
 Camp Meeting Association" surrendered control of the property, 
 which then became incorporated as a village. Many improvements 
 have been made in an up-to-date spirit, and Lake Bluff, with its 
 charming location, promises much in its future evolution toward 
 home-building. 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-five 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 About six miles south of Lake Bluff is Fort Sheridan, said to be 
 the model military station of the United States. Its inception came 
 in 1887, when an association comprised of Chicago's prominent busi- 
 ness men, realized the time had arrived when urgent need demanded 
 that a military post of some importance be established within con- 
 venient distance of the city. To this end, funds were raised to pur- 
 chase a tract of three hundred and fifty acres, located between the 
 railroad and the Lake. This tract was donated to the Government, 
 and by Act of Congress it was named in honor of the hero, General 
 Philip H. Sheridan. It is one of the most picturesque sites and its 
 original beauty of contour has been faithfully preserved. Additional 
 acres have been added until the reservation embraces about one 
 thousand. Its architectural features are excellent, and an appropria- 
 tion is being sought for further improvements. These will add materi- 
 ally to its present facilities for accommodation of numbers, and it 
 will make Fort Sheridan the best equipped military post in the world. 
 The famous Sheridan Road takes its way through the reservation 
 over finely bridged ravines. 
 
 This tract of land has its traditions. On the site now occupied 
 by the Post Cemetery, the woodman's ax awakened the echoes in 
 1840, and soon the pioneer structure of logs was seen in a small 
 clearing, and Benjamin Marks possessed a home in the North Shore 
 wilderness. Four years later Michael Sweeney came into the dense 
 timber growth between the Lake and the old trail or military road. 
 Now another little brown structure came into existence. This 
 memento of early pioneer days, is still seen just southwest of the 
 handsome station of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway at Fort 
 Sheridan. In the early fifties the railroad cut this acreage in two. 
 Mr. Sweeney, who had purchased his acres from the government, 
 arrived in an ox wagon in the late summer of 1844. He died in 
 September, 1909, but is survived by his widow and eight children, 
 two of the latter, Mr. William and Miss Frances, occupy, with their 
 mother, the spacious brick home, near the site of the former log cabin, 
 to which the latter had come as a bride. This modern home is on 
 a gentle elevation and in a delightful environment of lawn and 
 woodland. One is impressed with the care evidenced in the preser- 
 vation of the natural tree growth and the pioneer orchard — the first 
 apple tree being still tenderly nurtured in remembrance of the hand 
 that planted and fostered it. 
 
 High wood was projected in 1871, and the writer recalls the days 
 of its pretty suburban existence. Mrs. Holden (the "Amber" of 
 blessed memory) dwelt here, writing those delightful little heart 
 touches under the title of "Amber Beads," as well as other essays 
 of equal interest. High wood seemed to lose its identity after Fort 
 Sheridan was established. But efforts are being made toward its 
 rehabilitation. The lay of the land is delightful and the deserted 
 village aspect should at once be corrected, by a well-organized effort 
 toward home-building, and its evolution into one of the beauty spots 
 of the North Shore, for Highwood has undiscovered possibilities. 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-six 
 

 Pag^ hundred and fifty-seven 
 
Page hundred and fifty-eig 
 
RAVINE AT "THE MORAINE' 
 
 EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY 
 
 "Many of the most valuable discoveries have been the work of chance." 
 
 Cotton. 
 
 IS it not true that the particular designation of a site serves either 
 to attract or repel? While on an electric car headed northward, 
 
 and just beyond the immaculate and famous "Crab Tree Farm," 
 there flashed across the vision the word "Lakewoods!" It was a 
 title on a signboard, the latter having no objectionable feature in 
 its composition, but impressing one with the conviction that refine- 
 ment of taste originated its design. 
 
 "Lakewoods!" It suggested to the imagination something more 
 tender than "forest" growth. "Woods!" We may be lost in the 
 forest; we may roam without fear through the woods. With these 
 thoughts uppermost, the conductor is instructed to stop at the "very 
 next station." By me troth! The same is familiar, for it was noth- 
 ing more nor less than Downey's Crossing at the southwest corner of 
 the beautiful parade grounds of the Great Lakes Naval Training 
 Station, the Sheridan Road forming the dividing line. 
 
 This famous driveway offered a good footpath southward. The 
 stout fencing of wire forbade intrusion upon this lovely domain with 
 
 Page hundred and fifty-nine 
 
Page hundred and sixty 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS— PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 its waving undulations and belts of timber that called forth exclama- 
 tions of delight, as well as an irresistable desire for exploration of its 
 hidden recesses. Presently, after a delightful tramp of about half a 
 mile a gate is discovered, and oh, joy! it stands at an inviting "ajar" 
 angle — just room to squeeze through ! 
 
 Through? Yes, and following an old wagon trail the explorers — 
 for there are two (He and She) — find themselves trending eastward 
 through a valley of perfect delight. It is one of those wonderful 
 ravine formations, without any perceptible descent into it and with 
 the contour of its sides broken into slopes that appear to trend off 
 into lost distances. Each and every slope has its peculiar charm of 
 woodland, and just now, Autumn had touched the foliage with an 
 indescribable charm. See the maples yonder! How they revel in 
 their glory of gold ! And what an inspiration they are in their uplift 
 of gladsomeness ! And the number of them! Here, enthroned by a 
 group of courtly satellites all garbed in liveries of splendor, is a queen 
 of the woods. See how the flakes of gold float, as 'twere, between 
 earth and heaven. Later, they will become the sport of the winds. 
 
 The atmosphere is charged with woodsy sweets, such as only 
 Autumn distils. It is reminiscent of an old cedar chest in which 
 dried -rose leaves and lavender, sweet marjory and thyme all com- 
 bine, with no particular essence predominating. Hark! 'Tis the 
 whisper of waters. Only a brooklet, clear and deep, but quickly 
 pursuing its onward way between a growth that helps to conceal 
 its course. It is not, as tradition asserts of its kind, a "babbling 
 brook." Like the Indian, it learned to be stealthy. So it just 
 whispers, low yet musically, fearing that some scientific explorer 
 may happen along and propose to harness it for a purpose. Poor 
 little brook! How nervously you swish beneath the primitive bridge 
 of logs and rude planks! 
 
 She: — "This byway, in the long ago, was an Indian trail." 
 
 He: — "Quite possible. Let's hunt for spear-heads, arrow-heads 
 and the like." She shakes her head as an intimation that she realizes 
 the little vein of irony in his proposition, and continues the tramp 
 onward. 
 
 "There! There it is!" And there was an " I-told-you-so!" 
 implied by the tone of voice. But, presently, both He and She, 
 delighted and proud, are chuckling before this magnificent old trail 
 tree. Close at hand there is water, a spring to all appearance. It 
 is probably the source of the low-purling brook which has been 
 crossed and re-crossed on their trend eastward. 
 
 There is now a gentle slope upward, but the explorers, like their 
 predecessors of old, thinking they are heading in a particular direc- 
 tion, discover a surprise, but not the one they had set out to find. 
 The ravine, or " Valley Road," as they designated it on their "charts," 
 did not have its terminal at the Lake shore. It has surreptitiously 
 vanished beneath their feet and they find themselves on a plateau 
 of untold possibilities in its suggestion for a country seat. To tell 
 the truth, our explorers had expected to find something of the kind 
 already here, as the highway by which they had come was a well- 
 defined wagon road, not having been used perhaps for some twenty 
 
 Page hundred and sixty-one 
 
Page hundred and sixty-two 
 
Page hundred and sixty-three 
 
Page hundred and sixty-four 
 
H£G_HJWA^ S AND BYWAYS-P AST AND PRESENT 
 
 years But the problem of the road is solved. Observation of the 
 Deautirul Lakewoods" site imparts this solution: 
 
 That here, the Indian had a paradise along the North Shore -trails 
 ran m and out like a network. After the Indian, one leading trail 
 was used by the hunter and then covered by a wagon road and 
 much later, it received a covering of slag, and primitive bridges were 
 built across th^e brook. For what purpose? That wood for fuel 
 might be conveyed to the railroad. The trees tell the story. Manv 
 old monarchs have been slain. Some Yew remain. While the second 
 growth is now attaining its glory. The woods are, for this reason 
 beautiful and promising in their rich variety. Groups of hemlock 
 growth are here, as well as the richest development of hickory trees 
 found in so close a proximity to the Lake along the North Shore 
 One old trail tree lay prone. It must have been a marvel when 
 standing. Seated on its trunk, the crooked part forming a support 
 to the back, the explorers became familiar with the feathered tribe 
 haunting these particular woods. Allowing that many had migrated 
 southward, there remained variety enough to afford pleasurable 
 entertainment. 
 
 4.1. I hC ? U ? itSelf is finely scul Ptured, and has wooded inlets from 
 the beach that suggest great possibilities to the landscape architect 
 One of these in particular, has a well-defined trail, descending from 
 the plateau, and continuing at a very gentle slope to the beach. 
 Ine red man undoubtedly originated this byway, and the white 
 hunter followed its lead. 
 
 "Lakewoods" is all that its title implies, woods by the lake 
 The contour of this mile of frontage, and half a mile of depth is so 
 varied and so entrancing that its future as a site for country seats 
 to those desiring frontage, either on the Lake or Sheridan Road is 
 assured. The automobile or the horse will solve the question 'of 
 living remote from the railway station. 
 
 LAKE FROM PORCH OF "THE MORAINE' 
 Highland Park 
 
 Page hundred and sixty-five 
 
< "I 
 
 O 0! 
 
 Q M 
 
 » -S 
 
 < .S 
 
 ea 
 
 < rt 
 « 5 
 
 « s 
 
 Page hundred and sixty-six 
 
CONGRESSMAN FOSS RECEIVING BATTALION 
 (Administration Building and Officers' 
 Quarters in Background.) 
 
 THE GREAT LAKES NAVAL 
 TRAINING STATION 
 
 I sing the sailor of the sea, breed of the oaken heart, 
 Who drew our world together and spread the race apart. 
 
 T. F. Day 
 
 CONGRESSMAN GEORGE EDMUND FOSS and the late 
 Graeme Stewart made no error of judgment when as delegates 
 to Washington they urged the merits of a particular site on our 
 beautiful North Shore, as one of desirability for the Great Lakes 
 Naval Station. The members of the Merchants and Commercial Clubs 
 of Chicago are also to be congratulated on their enterprise in pur- 
 chasing this tract of one hundred and eighty-two acres, and donating 
 it to the Government for the purpose named. 
 
 Thus far, the total amount expended for the construction of the 
 station, is $3,475,000. This station is located about half a mile south 
 of the incorporated village of North Chicago, and a mile and a half 
 north of Lake Bluff. It is on a plateau about eighty feet above Lake 
 Michigan and commanding an expansive view of the waters. Here, 
 where a ravine intersects the property, has been built a good harbor, 
 while the ravine itself has been evolved into the most picturesque 
 
 Page hundred and sixty-seven 
 
Page hundred and sixty-eight 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 lagoon, both harbor and lagoon serving its purpose for training in 
 the art of naval seamanship. On the beach is located a powerhouse 
 and pumping station. It is right within shelter of the high bluff 
 and forms no detriment to the scenic beauty of the site itself nor to 
 adjoining properties. 
 
 All the structures are of the most classic type, substantial and 
 imposing by reason of their very simplicity. They are as fireproof 
 as construction warrants, steam-heated and lighted by electricity. 
 The Administration building with its tower reaching an altitude of 
 300 feet above the bluff, commands a wide view of the water from 
 the east, and stretches of upland and prairie, forest and dreamy 
 
 ADMINISTRATION BUILDING 
 (West Entrance) 
 
 SKYLARKING WHILE OFF DUTY 
 
 woodlands to the west. From the entrance gate looking east this, 
 building is about a mile distant, and as the visitor walks over fine,' 
 broad cement walks in this direction he is greeted by group after 
 group of structures facing the parade ground, that are in perfect 
 harmony in every detail with the central structure. Along the edge 
 of the bluff are placed the homes of the officers, the admiral's home 
 commanding the central point. 
 
 There is a fine drill hall and a mess hall, the entrance to the latter 
 might be that of a palace of the renaissance period. A magnificent 
 auditorium, fitted with a stage in proportion to its dimensions, where 
 entertainments as well as religious services are held and where verbal 
 instruction relating to the various branches of the service is given. 
 Entering the dormitories one becomes impressed with the absence of 
 cots. Looking upward, a series of queer-looking tackle, neat and 
 orderly in appearance, but suspended within a few inches of the 
 
 Page hzmdred and sixty-nine 
 
Awaiting Drill Call, front of Drill Hall 
 
 South Entrance to Mess Hall 
 
 Signal Drill on the Receiving Group 
 GREAT LAKES NAVAL TRAINING STATION 
 
 Page hundred and seventy 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 ceiling is seen. At night these being lowered, develop into hammocks. 
 For our candidate for naval development must be no coddled, feather- 
 bed sailor! It also requires courage to go under the shower in the 
 morning! 
 
 The kitchen — designated galley — is equipped with everything that 
 is up-to-date in the culinary art, and so immaculate that one almost 
 feared to set foot on the floor; while the bakery, with its automatic 
 dough mixer and dough trough, its mechanical cream whipper and 
 egg beater is as good as an appetizer. A fine gymnasium, fully equipped, 
 and containing devices for boom swinging, as well as a speedway, a 
 swimming pool and a bowling alley, all contribute recreation as well 
 as instruction. 
 
 The acres composing this site are enclosed by a high wrought- 
 iron fence on a base of masonry, presenting with its enclosure of 
 shrub growth and neatness of approach from whichever direction, 
 features that will prove a valuable asset to the future upbuilding of 
 the immediate vicinity. 
 
 For three weeks after the recruit is accepted, he is not allowed 
 outside the station. During this time the rough edges are toned 
 down and he has become accustomed to the rigid discipline, and at 
 recreation moments, he may, perhaps, be found prone on the grass, 
 battling with homesickness, or undergoing a tug with his inner con- 
 sciousness of the conditions to which he has bound himself. If he 
 is built of the right stuff, and this is the environment where the test 
 becomes critical, he gradually falls into the routine of duty and 
 begins to view life under a different aspect. 
 
 He now feels he is pressing toward a goal, for at the end of three 
 months he will be drafted to one of the various ships of the United 
 States Navy. In the meantime he has acquired considerable control 
 of himself, has learned to accomplish, and begins to feel he has a pur- 
 pose in life. His figure shows the effect of physical training, his 
 cheeks have assumed a ruddy hue, his eyes are bright with enthusiasm, 
 and love for the flag has become a religion. During all this time he 
 has slept in a hammock, has fed upon wholesome rations neither too 
 much nor too little. He has had lots of pleasure, too, football and 
 other sports, and his immaculate white uniform has now become a 
 matter for pride and he glories in the fact that he is associated with 
 an arm of the Government service entitled to respectful consideration. 
 
 O Jackies of the Great Lakes Naval Training Station, may war 
 never come! Yet if it should, the nation will find you are better 
 fighters, braver, more courageous and intrepid, from your sojourn on 
 our beautiful North Shore! 
 
 Future traditions will incorporate the visit of the Hon. William H. 
 Taft, President of the United States, who, on October 28, 191 1, 
 dedicated the Naval Training Station to the "normal, physical and 
 ethical development of the young men of the nation." Legends will 
 tell of the reverberating echoes along the North Shore as heavy guns 
 welcomed the coming of a President; of his greeting to an elderly 
 woman who had known him some forty years ago ; of how the Jackies 
 in a thin white line advanced upon the encroaching crowd causing it 
 to fall back in an orderly manner. 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-one 
 
Indian Trail Tree at Lake Bluff, 111. 
 
 THE CITY OF WAUKEGAN— ITS LEGENDS 
 AND TRADITIONS 
 
 O'er that which hath been and o'er that which must be; 
 What we have seen our sons shall see; 
 Remnants of things that have passed away, 
 Fragments of stone reared by creatures of clay. 
 
 Byron. 
 
 THE "Little Fort" of the pioneer is Waukegan of today. "Little 
 Fort" received mention in a history of the United States, pub- 
 lished in London, 1795. There is also a map in this old work, 
 made according to the treaty of 1783. Two places are indicated on 
 the western shore of Lake Michigan, Chicago and Little Fort, the 
 latter being designated at the mouth of a stream — Old Fort River. 
 It is but natural to infer then, that previous to 1783, there was a 
 fort of much older significance, than that which is later brought 
 to notice. 
 
 Tradition cherishes the probability of La Salle and one or more 
 of his company having been in this immediate vicinity in 1679. Did 
 he build a fort here? And was this "Old Fort" to which reference 
 is made in the early English map? La Salle's scheme, as we know, 
 was to erect a chain of forts from Lake Ontario to the mouth of 
 the Mississippi, and so establish the supreme right of France to reign 
 over this broad inland territory. 
 
 When the very earliest settlers — hunters and traders, principally — 
 came among the Indians, on the site now covered by the city of 
 Waukegan, legends were not wanting in the confirmation of the 
 supposition that La Salle here builded a fort. The descendants of 
 the tribes occupying this vicinity in the seventeenth century, per- 
 sisted in the statement that an Indian village of some pretentions, 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-two 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 existed in this neighborhood at the time the "Old Fort" was erected. 
 That the designation of " Little Fort" was used by the Pottawattomies 
 to distinguish the latter and its location from the earlier structure and 
 its site. This legend was again and again detailed to the early settlers, 
 and is rightly cherished by their descendants. 
 
 These settlers found decaying timbers enough, together with some 
 rude earthworks, to verify the fact of the existence of the " Little 
 Fort." It had probably been^ erected by hunters and traders as a 
 protection against, or an intimidation toward any hostilities on the 
 part of the Indians. This rude stockade enclosure stood at the inter- 
 section of Water Street and Sheridan Road, Waukegan. 
 
 It is also interesting to be able to confirm the existence of this 
 latter structure previous to 1825. One, William Hamilton, drove a 
 herd of cattle from Springfield, Illinois, to Green Bay, Wisconsin, in 
 the year named, following, from Chicago, the Lake as closely as 
 possible, though not immediately on its shore. Mr. Hamilton clearly 
 stated that these ruins were designated "Little Fort." He is not 
 very clear, however, in speaking of distances, although he describes 
 the location. Undoubtedly, this was one of his landmarks by the 
 way, as he was taking cattle to a detachment of the United States 
 soldiery, then stationed at Green Bay, and his instructions as to the 
 highway he should follow, as well as of the particular landmarks by 
 which he might recognize the same, would be explicit. This is why 
 that of "Little Fort" remained in his memory. It was a distin- 
 guishing object of guidance along the route. 
 
 The acknowledgment in the old English book of a stream here 
 designated as "Old -Fort River" would indicate the existence of a 
 well known fort in this vicinity, while the ruins of "Little Fort," 
 together with the rich yield of Indian relics, spear-heads, arrow-heads, 
 tomahawks, and even skeletons, together with bits of wrought metal 
 suggestive of accoutrements worn by the French soldiery of La Salle's 
 day, are all strong links in a chain of evidence of the site of Wau- 
 kegan being rife with traditional import. This atmosphere yet lingers. 
 The student of research becomes possessed with an intense desire to 
 dig and to delve, until the secret of that which is now vague and 
 mysterious be forced to the open. For Waukegan of today, is an 
 association of past with present; of the yesterday treading closely 
 upon the heels of today. It is old, it is new; it is youthful yet aged; 
 it puzzles, it distracts, this city by the lake which retains its Indian 
 title. 
 
 The early settlers aspired to build a city that should become of 
 some importance as a shipping point. With this end in view, a com- 
 pany was organized in Chicago as early as 1835. O ne °f its members, 
 Thomas Jenkins, became Waukegan 's pioneer merchant and the 
 builder of the first frame structure in the township. Tradition locates 
 it within shelter of the bluff just north of the big ravine. The popu- 
 lation of "Little Fort," at this period, was represented by those who 
 inhabited the five log cabins and who worked in the very unpre- 
 tentious sawmill. 
 
 By vote of the people, Little Fort obtaining a majority of 188 
 out of 744 votes, the county seat, on April 13, 1841, was established 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-three 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 here. Feeling ran high at this change of location on the Lake, and 
 for years the resentment made itself felt in political issues. One 
 hundred and sixty acres at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre 
 were pre-empted for the county seat. Those who possessed claims 
 upon the chosen site showed their appreciation of the conditions by 
 releasing them in favor of the county. 
 
 The latter had no funds in its treasury wherewith to make the 
 purchase, but it had been whispered among those directly interested, 
 that one of the pioneers had been heard to say that he had two 
 hundred dollars in gold, which the commissioners might have as a 
 loan. And Elmsley Sunderlin became immortalized in the traditions 
 of Lake County. He was a live, active worker for progression, and 
 Waukegan owes much to just such men of this period, that earnestly 
 worked for the good of the community at large. The first courthouse 
 was destroyed by fire in 1875. In 1887 the present courthouse was 
 erected at a cost of forty thousand dollars. It is barely large enough 
 at the present time to meet its requirements. 
 
 In connection with the changing of the county seat to "Little Fort" 
 there are many incidents worthy of record. The "For Burlington" 
 people charged the "For Little Fort" contingent with illegal voting, 
 which was easily and readily disproved. Then followed a question 
 of legal technicalities, and Dr. Richard Murphy, the first resident of 
 Lake County to represent the people in the Illinois legislature, secured 
 the passage of an Act declaring the county seat should be considered 
 permanently established at "Little Fort." Captain Morris Robinson, 
 who had been one of the active workers toward this end, resolved 
 to go to Springfield to also urge the passing of this Act. 
 
 It was mid-winter, and the legend runs that neither he nor his 
 friends in or about "Little Fort" had a horse available for the trip. 
 Nothing daunted, the enthusiastic pioneer set out on foot. Much of 
 his life had been spent on the sea, but pioneering had developed a 
 love for walking and he footed it to Springfield, ever after boasting 
 that he had beat the stage from Chicago by two days! 
 
 "Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner" was the pioneer 
 newspaper. Its distinguishing insignia was a wood engraving, repre- 
 senting a porcupine with quills set in battle array, intimating the 
 spirit of its projectors, who fearlessly hit right and left, regardless of 
 political party, and pricked the pride and temper, if not the con- 
 sciences, of all public officials, who, in its estimation, stood in need 
 of editorial lambasting. Its initial number, issued March 4, 1845, 
 proclaims the fact, that in Little Fort, at that time, there were 452 
 inhabitants, three commodious public houses, seven stores, two black- 
 smith shops, one tin and sheet iron factory, two shoe shops, three 
 tailor shops, one chair and cabinet factory, three warehouses, one pier 
 and a second being constructed, and two brickyards. In this same 
 number is also the following introductory: 
 
 "Today, March 4th, is notable for two things. It is inauguration 
 day with President Polk and Vice-President Dallas, as well as with 
 'Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner.' Great day this at 
 Little Fort and Washington!" The paper does not seem to have 
 met with all the encouragement the enterprise deserved, for on April 
 1 6th of the same year, appears the following: 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-four 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS — PAST AND PRESENT 
 
 " Eugene Sue in his new work, 'The Wandering Jew,' endeavors 
 to show that this being is to wander over every foot of earth, try 
 every imaginable plain of life, occupy all stations and to drain to the 
 dregs the cup of each conceivable misery. We wonder if the punish- 
 ment can be complete without he published a newspaper at 'Little 
 Fort'!" 
 
 "Little Fort" having attained a population of 2,500, sought incor- 
 poration as a village, desiring, also, that the Act of Incorporation 
 provide for the change in its title, to that of the Pottawattomie 
 equivalent, Waukegan, and by an Act of the Legislature, February 12, 
 1849, these petitions were granted. 
 
 New Year's Day, 1855, is incorporated in the traditions of Wau- 
 kegan as the beginning of a new era. For the high bluffs upon which 
 the city of today stands, became conscious of an unusual tremor and 
 vibration, as smoothly gliding over a magic trail, at their base, came 
 the advance guard of a new order. The iron horse snorts with satis- 
 faction, and every now and again, gives vent to bursts of exhilaration 
 as it appropriates the right of way, inch by inch, over the highway 
 of accommodation and commerce. It has urged its way northward 
 over part of an historic by-way, which of necessity it has cut in two 
 here, and paralleled there, but the adjoining wooded heights now 
 catch the rhythmic melody of its joyous progress, and " Hap-py-New- 
 Year! Hap-py-New-Year! Fair-Waukegan ! New-Wau-ke-gan" is 
 projected through and over the site, where, but yesterday, the Indian 
 was lord of the soil, and where tradition avers that the ambitious 
 ambassador from France erected the fort, which in a little more than 
 a century afterward, was designated on the English map as "Old." 
 
 Many legends are still afloat regarding the method of transporta- 
 tion during the period of railroad construction. Stage routes were 
 established between Milwaukee and Waukegan, and between the 
 latter and the nearest point of approach of the railroad, each trip of 
 the stage being shortened according to the closer reach of the rail- 
 road. A twelve mile walk was nothing in those days, and men and 
 women in these earlier times more frequently "rode shank's mare," 
 covering distances which today is looked upon as impossible. 
 
 On January eleventh of this same year, Waukegan resolved itself 
 into the position of host and hostess and gave a party in commemora- 
 tion of the coming of the railroad. The day before, a detachment of 
 artillery, under -Lieutenant Hadley, had arrived from Chicago, to take 
 part in the celebration. On the morning of the eleventh Old Sol 
 emerged from the far horizon of the Lake, in very gracious mood. 
 The waters were touched with regal splendor, the corrugated bluffs 
 smiled and dimpled in response, while the forests stood etched against 
 a sky-line of .ethereal blue. It was "unusual weather," and as such 
 has found its way into tradition. 
 
 It is now noon and the "special" from Chicago, composed of a 
 train of flat cars, bearing officials and guests to the celebration will 
 soon hove in view. And right on time it came — at half past twelve 
 — having covered the distance — 35 miles — in two hours and a half! 
 Quick time in that early day. A boom of cannon, the cheers of the 
 enthusiastic people, and a band of music proclaimed its arrival. 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-five 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 Imagine what an event this was to the pioneers and their families! 
 Many of whom were seeing a locomotive for the first time! Yes, 
 little by little, the east was being linked with the west and then they 
 would not seem so far apart. A procession to the courthouse square 
 where speeches were made, a banquet, at which four hundred partici- 
 pated, and a ball in the evening, closed a memorable day in the his- 
 tory of Waukegan. 
 
 Later, over the steel trail, came the Hon. Stephen Douglas, address- 
 ing an audience from an improvised platform close to the railroad 
 station. Mr. Douglas had been a visitor before the coming of the 
 railroad, addressing a large audience from the courthouse square. 
 The second of April, i860, Abraham Lincoln spoke to a large audi- 
 ence in Dickinson Hall. He was warmly welcomed, for already Mr. 
 Lincoln was looked upon as a possible candidate for the presidency. 
 "The Waukegan Gazette," however (a live paper today), named 
 Lincoln for second place on the ticket, giving preference to Simon 
 Cameron as president. The Hon. C. A. Partridge, in his reminiscent 
 mood of this particular occasion, writes, in his valuable " History of 
 Lake County:" 
 
 " Looking back upon it, and remembering that this gathering was 
 but six weeks prior to the date set for the convention in which Mr. 
 Lincoln was finally named for the highest office in the gift of the 
 American people, and that the very air was surcharged with political 
 excitement and with forebodings of the great military struggle so 
 soon to begin, it seems remarkable that all mention of the meeting 
 in the local paper was confined to a brief paragraph." 
 
 During Mr. Lincoln's speech there came the ominous sound of the 
 firebell. Naturally, the audience evinced symptoms of uneasiness. 
 The chairman, Hon. E. P. Ferry, endeavored to allay the fears of 
 the audience by remarking that there was no cause for alarm for it 
 was but a practical joke on the part of political opponents in an 
 endeavor to break up the meeting, and begged the distinguished 
 speaker to proceed. But Mr. Lincoln had caught sight of the red 
 glare from without, and in his quiet manner, said: "I think there 
 is a fire. You had better go and try to save the property. I can 
 come some other time and speak to you." With a few friends and 
 from a point of vantage on the beach Mr. Lincoln witnessed the 
 destruction of a warehouse on the lake shore. 
 
 For a number of years before the coming of the railroad Waukegan 
 had been considered a thriving shipping port. Before its first pier 
 was constructed, in the summer of 1841, passengers- and freight had 
 been transferred from passing vessels to lighters. But not until 1845 
 did steamboats come with any marked regularity. Each River and 
 Harbor Bill since 1881 carried an appropriation for the maintenance 
 and improvement of the harbor. 
 
 Waukegan is about thirty-five miles north of Chicago. It had 
 every advantage for the evolution of a City Beautiful, but was destined, 
 even from its earliest incipiency, to become a City Commercial; and 
 the "beautiful," except in instances, in which individual citizens and 
 the City Fathers have striven to retain the rich gifts bestowed by 
 Nature, lies in abeyance. 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-six 
 
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAY S — P AST AND PRESENT 
 
 , At the base of its towering and picturesque bluffs is a stretch of 
 smooth sandy beach from one-eighth to one-third of a mile in width. 
 This latter has been appropriated to manufacturing purposes and the 
 right of way of the railroad. The city itself is on the plateau above. 
 Its streets are intersected by beautifully wooded ravines, which are 
 bridged for convenience, and Sheridan Road takes its way along the 
 bluff, commanding an expansive view of the Lake. Many of the 
 early homes and a few of the most pretentious houses were built 
 along this street, long, long before it became designated as a part of 
 one of the world's famous driveways; and, perhaps, long before it 
 was realized that an array of smokestacks, albeit out of direct view, 
 might frequently veil the sapphire of the waters in a murk of smoke. 
 
 Waukegan has well paved streets, up-to-date curbings and avenues 
 rich with a fine maple growth. It has good schools, fine churches 
 and a well built and artistic public library. In the basement of the 
 latter are the headquarters of the Lake County Historical Society. 
 
 A wealth of material is gathered here awaiting classification. 
 Awaiting a -throb of responsive appreciation from the people of the 
 county itself, who should, without unnecessary delay, awaken to the 
 fact that it is absolutely essential, if they expect consideration in the 
 archives of the future, to swell the membership of this small but 
 enthusiastic organization, that is doing so much to preserve the 
 traditions and legends of Lake County. 
 
 When one realizes what has already been accomplished under 
 difficulties, the assurance presents itself that Waukegan is destined 
 in the near future to an evolution in which the artistic will touch 
 elbow with the commercial, and laying hold of its many natural 
 advantages, seek development in the interest of the utmost good for 
 the greatest number, by making a city park which shall be unequalled 
 in scenic beauty and picturesqueness by anything of the kind along 
 the North Shore. 
 
 Trail Tree at Glencoe, 111. 
 
 Page hundred 
 and seventy-seven 
 
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY 
 
 Jesuit Relations, Thwaites. 
 
 Early Voyages Mississippi, Shea. 
 
 Indian Landmarks North Shore. Grover. 
 
 Past and Present Lake County, Illinois, Haines. 
 
 Lake County, Partridge. 
 
 Old Newspaper Files. 
 
 The Author also desires to express appreciation of the helpful courtesy 
 shown by the Chicago Historical Society; by Mr. Robert M. Ingalls, Mr. C. 
 T. Heydecker, and Miss Bess T. Bowers, all of Waukegan, 111., and to the 
 descendants of the families of the early settlers. 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Foreword S 
 
 Highways and Byways Past and Present; 
 
 The Highway is Opened 7 
 
 Glimpses of Lake County 23 
 
 Lake Forest, the College City of the North Shore 39 
 
 Highland Park, the North Shore Pioneer of Country Seats S3 
 
 The Highway Southward to Chicago 13 S 
 
 The Favorite Pastime on the North Shore, "The Royal Game of Goff" 145 
 
 Passing Vistas 155 
 
 E xploration and Discovery 159 
 
 The Great Lakes Naval Training Station 167 
 
 The City of Waukegan, its Legends and Traditions 172 
 
 Index to Illustrations 179, 180 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-eight 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Alice Home, Lake Forest 18 
 
 Bluffs at Ravinia Park 62 
 
 Bridge at " Haven Wood," Lake Forest. . . 8 
 
 "Broadly Sweeping Right and Left" iy 
 
 Country Clubs — Onwentsia, Exmoor, Lake 
 
 Shore, Skokie and Glen View 
 
 23-37, 65, 144-15.? 
 
 Diverging Highways 22 
 
 Durand Commons, Lake Forest 45 
 
 Durand Institute, Lake Forest 42 
 
 Entrance to " Pine wold, " Lake Forest. . .Cover 
 
 Fort Sheridan 154 
 
 Gymnasium, Lake Forest 39 
 
 Harlan and Blackstone Halls, Lake Forest. 44 
 
 Heights'at "Miralago," Highand Park... 2 
 
 High School, Highland Park 58 
 
 Index — Homes and Gardens 180 
 
 Indian Trail, Lakewoods 158 
 
 Indian Trail Trees 136,138,172,177 
 
 Interior North Shore Trust Company Bank, 
 
 Highland Park 106 
 
 Lake and the Forest 16 
 
 Lake and Lawrence Avenue Crib 133 
 
 Lake from the Lake Forest Park 20 
 
 Lake from the Bluffs at Lakewoods 163 
 
 Lake from "Moraine," Highland Park. . . . 165 
 
 Lakewoods, Views in 157-165 
 
 Lois Durand Hall, Lake Forest 48 
 
 McCormicks' Bridge, Lake Forest 38 
 
 Moonlight on Lake Michigan 6 
 
 Naval Training Station, North Chicago. . . . 
 
 166-170 
 
 New Presbyterian Church, Highland Park. 53 
 
 Old Port Clinton Lighthouse 54 
 
 Ouilmette Country Club 116 
 
 Parkway and Nursery, Highland Park 93 
 
 ka\ ine, Highland Park 159 
 
 Reid Hall, Lake Forest 40 
 
 Reid Memorial Chapel, Lake Forest 40 
 
 Reid Memorial Library, Lake Forest 50 
 
 Roger Williams Avenue, Ravinia 64 
 
 Stone Gate, Lake Forest 21 
 
 Suggested Harbor at Lake Forest 52 
 
 Sweeney Log Cabin, Fort Sheridan 155 
 
 Trail to the Beach, Lakewoods 162 
 
 Turn in the Road 15 
 
 Union Church, Glencoe 10S 
 
 Valley Road, Lakewoods 158 
 
 Valley of the Skokie, Highland Park 87 
 
 Vista in Lake Forest Park 17 
 
 Waverly Avenue Bridge, Highland Park. . 56 
 
 White Birches 142 
 
 Wooded Bluffs 26 
 
 Page hundred and seventy-nine 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 HOMES AND GARDENS 
 
 Albright, Adam Emory 114 
 
 Alexander, H. E 1 20, 1 2 1 
 
 Armour, J. Ogden 7 
 
 Bahr, Fritz 93, 107 
 
 Beatty, R. J 102 
 
 Cagney, James E 126 
 
 Carpenter, A. A. Jr 12 
 
 Carqueville, Alexander R 97 
 
 Case, Frank A 130, 1,5 1 
 
 Clarke, Henry Bertrande 7 4. 7 5 
 
 Clements, Thomas 77 
 
 Compton, F. E 109 
 
 Couch, Ira J 146 
 
 Curtis, John F. L 105 
 
 Deerpath Inn 24 
 
 DeMuth, Beni. F 78 
 
 Dox, Charles E 149 
 
 Dyer, George T 115 
 
 Ebeling, George C : 107 
 
 Everhart, George P 96 
 
 Fahrney, Wm. H 128 
 
 Fishback, Hon. Chas. F g,S. 99 
 
 Fitzgerald, Burt J 108 
 
 Foreman, Oscar G 1 1 1 
 
 Frost, Charles S 14 
 
 Glidden, Grace 102 
 
 Gunder, S. H 127 
 
 Hardin, John R 112,113 
 
 Harrington, Stephen Harris 72, 73 
 
 Hately, Walter C 94, 95 
 
 Hawkins, Frank P 55 
 
 Irwin, The Misses 104 
 
 Kaempfer, Fred 118 
 
 Kuppenheimer, J 28 
 
 Latlin, Louis E 30 
 
 Lynch, M 123 
 
 Marsh, Marshall S 70 
 
 McCormick, Harold Fowler 10, 11 
 
 Metzel, E. B 79 
 
 Moeng, E. D 1 24, 125 
 
 Moras, Edmond R., M. D 66-69 
 
 Patterson, J. W 24 
 
 Ra y monrl , Jules N 119 
 
 " Ridge wood " 88-92 
 
 Ritchie, Mrs. H. R 104 
 
 Roberts, Charles J 117 
 
 Roberts, George W 100 
 
 Seyfarth, Robert 103 
 
 Shannon, Mrs. Maud Holbrook 104 
 
 Shaw, J. B 134 
 
 Smith, C. F. Mather 8i 
 
 Smith, Robert S 135 
 
 Squire, Benjamin A 122 
 
 Terbell, J. B 82 
 
 Thayer, Clarence Holmes 71 
 
 Thayer, Henry J 76 
 
 Tyner, E 83 
 
 Upham, Frederic W 148 
 
 Wardrop, Walter 103 
 
 Washington, Alf no 
 
 Watkins, Elias M 101 
 
 Wean, Frank L 80 
 
 Weinand, Mrs. John N 132 
 
 Whitney, C. P 118 
 
 Will, Dr. Harry Clayton 129 
 
 Williams, Lucian M 84-86 
 
 Page hundred and eighty 
 
22 191 J 
 
One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
 NOV 22 Iff I