COPYRIGHTED 1893. 
 
AIDS 
 
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 TO THE 
 
 Physical Improvement 
 
 
 Face and Form. 
 
 ESTELLA CASE, 
 
 t » 
 
 GRADUATE OF THE CINCINNATI SCHOOL OF DESIGN. 
 
 GRADUATE IN DEMONSTRATIVE ANATOMY, 
 
 And the Inventor and Patentee of 
 
 THE STELLA HEALTH GARHENTS. 
 

 IV- 
 
 F.>2. 
 
Importance of a Good Figure. 
 
 O MANY WOMEN, remarks on this subject would seem 
 needless, yet, when we see so many struggling to look as 
 well as they can, and falling so far short of their aim, simply 
 because they give heed to the cut of their gowns rather 
 than to the form beneath, a few remarks may be of 
 service to such. 
 The form is the foundation of style. A stylish figure can not be 
 concealed by poorly-fitted garments; nor will stylish garments conceal 
 a bad figure. Our first impressions of people are formed 'by their per- 
 sonal appearance. Hence every woman should study the best possible 
 methods of personal improvement. Fine gowns may not be within her 
 reach, but a fine figure is within the reach of all, and is of far greater 
 importance, for it means health, strength, and a beauty that fashion can- 
 not change. 
 
 Nature kindly gave to the majority of mankind erect and graceful 
 figures, but their occupations greatly tend to distort them, and many will 
 find that it will take months of patient practice and perseverance to 
 regain their lost beauty. To stand, walk, or sit properly, hold the head 
 erect, the chin in, the chest high, and curve the lower part of the back 
 outwardly. (See PI. B, fig. 3.) In walking bend the knees as little as 
 possible, moving the entire limb from the hip-joint. In bringing the body 
 forward press hard upon the great toe ; this gives the form an easy, glid- 
 ing motion. 
 
 In ascending stairs, place the toes only on the step, then raise the 
 body by rising on tiptoe ; this puts the other foot in position for placing 
 upon the next step with but little bending of the knee. In descending, 
 while standing on one foot, stretch the other foot down to touch the next 
 step, as the weight of the body settles down upon it, the same move- 
 ment should be repeated with the first foot. 
 
 In sitting, never bend the body above the hip-joints, nor rest the 
 shoulders against the chair back, nor lean to one side. Many will, no 
 doubt, find the above directions hard to follow. But by five minutes' 
 practice each day in the following exercises and the aid of garments 
 hereinafter described, the faults of the entire figure may be corrected 
 and indescribable grace and beauty imparted to the form. 
 
 Exercises should never be taken without the muscles of the entire 
 body being free. Hence it is well to take them just before retiring. To 
 free the chest muscles and correct the poking out of the head, grasp a 
 strong flat stick in both hands, raising it above the head, bring it down 
 back of the shoulders (see PI. A. fig. 2), move the hands in towards the 
 body as closely as possible. While standing, in this position, rest the 
 body on one leg and swing the other back and forward, free from the 
 floor, as long as equilibrium can be maintained. Repeat the same with 
 the other leg; then give to one and then the other a circular motion ; 
 then standing on both feet rise several times on the toes. If the time is 
 
limited for these exercises, the foregoing may be taken every other night 
 and the following the nights between. 
 
 To construct a cheap chest-developing machine, procure a piece of 
 clothes line about four yards long, tie a knot in the middle of it ; place 
 the knot under a door, close the door upon it, to give it a firm fasten- 
 ing. Then, standing between the two ends with the back towards the 
 door, grasp one in each hand and pull forward with the entire weight of 
 the body thrown upon the toes, as shown in PL A, fig. i. Repeat this 
 movement, with the rope thrown over the door. If the door does not 
 furnish a strong fastening, put two strong hooks in the wall, one high 
 and the other low. 
 
 Many other movements may be taken with the rope with good 
 results, which one can devise for one's self. Exercises will not keep the 
 figure straight through the day, but will put the muscles into condition 
 for holding the body in proper position by the aid of the Stella Chest- 
 Form Shoulder Brace. (See PI. D, figs. 6 and 7.) 
 
 A fruitful cause of stooped figures is the corset, which can not 
 be worn without injury to health and beauty of form. It not only 
 injures the muscles, which it covers by its pressure and rigidity, but 
 excludes the air from the most vital parts of the body, and by the pres- 
 sure it exerts on the lower part of the spine and the nerves centering in 
 that locality. This pressure forces the back down and the abdomen out, 
 which causes the head and shoulders to come forward in order to balance 
 the figure, thus making the wearer look fiat-backed, high-stomached, 
 hollow-chested and stooped (see PI. B, fig. 4), which is the type of the 
 majority of the women at the present day. Yet if we suggest abolishing 
 the corset they cry, " How will I keep my high stomach down?" 
 
 Answer : " Stand and sit properly and there will be no high 
 stomach." 
 
 Corsets are often put upon young girls before their muscles have de- 
 veloped, in order to prevent them growing large around the waist, but 
 it can not be that any mother would do such a thing if she knew the 
 dangers attending the result. They restrict and weaken the best and 
 most useful muscles of the entire body. Hence we often see women 
 who have worn corsets, so dependent upom them, that they can scarcely 
 do without their support, which furnishes the strongest proof of their 
 injurious effects. 
 
 See Plate C. Notice the Dorsalis magnus muscles, at fig. 8 : by 
 their use the form is held erect. Notice the Great oblique muscles (fig. 7), 
 suspended from the ribs, extending like great straps down over the 
 abdomen, holding it in place; also, the Serratus magnus muscles (fig. 5), 
 used in lifting the chest and expanding the ribs in breathing ; and the 
 Rectus abdominus muscle (fig. 6), extending from the chest bone down 
 over the entire front of the abdomen, holding it in shape and giving it 
 support, and it will be readily seen how important it is to give freedom to 
 the form around the waist in order to secure the free action of these 
 muscles, and thereby secure health, grace of motion, and a fine carriage. 
 
 A corset, to be worn without injury, should be two inches larger 
 than the normal waist measure; but where is the woman that would 
 
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wear one so ? The extra two inches are needed in breathing, also 
 for expansion in different movements of the body. Women will not 
 wear corset substitutes in which they do not look as well as in cor- 
 sets, hence the poor success of corset waists, which are but caricatures 
 of corsets. But the majority of women would only too gladly adopt a 
 garment which would do more for the figure, health and comfort than 
 the corset. 
 
 -This is what the writer has labored to invent in the form of the 
 
 Stella Chest Form Shoulder Brace, 
 
 (See Plate D, figures 6 and 7), which supplies the place of the corset 
 perfectly (except for very stout women) and without its attending 
 injuries. No one has a perfectly erect form except by a constant 
 effort to make it so, as the various movements of the body tend 
 to draw it forward, and the heavier weight of the clothing coming 
 in the back increases this tendency; hence we often see persons who 
 have never worn corsets very much stooped, but wearing them only adds 
 to their difficulties. The object of the Stella Chest-Form Shoulder 
 Brace is to counteract these strains and relieve the back of all 
 weight and pressure, aud thus relieve the wearer of the effort to keep 
 straight. 
 
 It is the only shoulder brace in use that does not bind around the 
 arm-hole, that lifts and expands the chest, that develops the bust by 
 putting those muscles into use, that regulates the waist line in the back, 
 that does not put an exta strain upon the wearer, but uses the strain of the 
 hose-supporters and the weight of the clothing to accomplish its pur- 
 poses. - It is the only garment that assists in reducing the size of the 
 abdomen in the proper way ; it does this by lifting the chest. When the 
 chest is lifted the abdomen must go back. It does not make the bust 
 appear any fuller unless the verticle cords are tied in front, yet it fills out 
 the hollow places around the arm-holes and up on tc the shoulders, and 
 does away with all padding in the front of the dresses, and gives a beau- 
 tifully modeled contour to the bust and chest, and prevents the dress fall- 
 ing in wrinkles across that portion of the form, no matter what position 
 the wearer may take — a question which dressmakers have long tried to 
 solve. By the different movements of the body spaces are formed be- 
 tween the chest-form portion and the body, into which the fresh air 
 passes, thus ventilating the bust and promoting its growth. By the 
 arrangement of its straps the strain of the. hose-supporters and the weight 
 of the clothing is thrown upon the chest rather than on the moving bones 
 of the shoulders, thus eliminating the uncomfortable feeling which skirt- 
 supporting straps always have. 
 
 While many could not be induced to discard the corset they will find 
 in the Stella Chest-Form Shoulder Brace a most welcome garment to 
 take its place for morning-wear with loose wrappers and tea-gowns and 
 in all out-of-door sports, such as horseback riding, rowing, lawn tennis, 
 bicycle riding and bowling, and in all cases in which corsets can not be 
 worn. It can be worn over the corset, in which case it conceals the corset 
 
Pl.C. 
 
 y 
 
line across the bust, gives a nice shape to the chest, and is an excellent 
 support for the hose-supporters and clothing, and permits of the bands 
 of the clothing being worn much looser than ordinarily, thus saving the 
 corsets from breaking around the waist line. It is an excellent mater- 
 nity garment and highly recommended by physicians, and it is perfec- 
 tion itself with the Empire gowns. 
 
 While a well-developed waist should be considered a mark of beauty, 
 many do not consider it so, but as the waist never looks small except by 
 contrast with the hips and bust, it is best to build them out and thus 
 produce the appearance of a well-developed figure, well-corseted, and 
 in much better proportion than when the same effect is sought by tight- 
 lacing. 
 
 For this purpose the writer invented the 
 
 Stella Hip Forms, 
 
 (Plate D, figs. 6 and 7), which not only supplies any necessary fulness 
 to the hips, but models them into a most perfect form. If the wearer 
 still feels that she must reduce the size of her waist, the 
 
 Stella Dress Fitters, 
 
 (PL D, fig. 8), may be sewed into the dress, which will enable the wearer 
 to draw the waist in to any desirable size, thus making the dress glove- 
 fitting and reducing the size of the waist more than is possible with the 
 corset, as it takes up two inches of room inside the dress. 
 
 Persons are often made to appear bony in the back by the move- 
 ment of their shoulder-blades, especially when these are prominent and 
 the spaces between them broad, padding is apt to make them appear 
 round-shouldered, but the 
 
 Stella Back Form 
 
 (Plate E, fig. 9) takes the place of it, and conceals every defect. 
 
 It also protects the lungs where they most need it, and prevents the 
 wearer taking cold, and yet is not heating in summer. 
 
 The Stella Bustle 
 
 (Plate E, fig. 10) completes the set of Stella Health Garments, and is 
 indispensable to many forms, for it conceals the hollow place in the back 
 and so closely copies nature's best form that it defies detection. It also 
 ventilates that portion of the back which is so often overheated by the 
 gathers of the clothing. 
 
 As a rule not enough attention is given to equalizing the thickness 
 of the clothing over the entire figure, for it affects the temperature and 
 circulation of the blood. Skirts should never be gathered into bands, but 
 gathered on to deep yokes, and the combination underwear worn the 
 year around. Muslin underwear should be discarded unless in skirts. 
 Woolen is preferable at all times, as it is an animal product,; but those 
 who cannot wear it in summer will find the Stella Combination 
 Drawers and Vest an excellent substitute. They are made of the 
 
n a 
 
finest grade of cotton stockinet, as fine and soft as silk and much healthier. 
 Thev are trimmed with fine torchon lace and fit the form perfectly. (See 
 PL E, fig. 12.) 
 
 The Stella Health Garments, 
 
 with the exception of the dress-fitters, bustle and combination suits, are 
 made in three qualities, — white stockinet, Pongee silk, and black China 
 silk, known as A, B and C, respectively, the foundations of which are 
 woven straw, lined with a very fine quality of white muslin. The 
 Stella Hip - Forms and Chest-Form Shoulder Braces are 
 boned with small real whalebone and horn. 
 
 The Stella Chest- Form Shoulder Brace comes in three sizes,— 
 10, n, and 12, indicating the measure of inches across the chest. The 
 numbers are marked on one of the short bands in front. 
 
 To Measure for the Stella Chest=Form Shoulder=Brace, 
 
 Pass a tape measure across the chest from arm to arm, just where the 
 arms leave the body, and the number of inches thus obtained will give 
 the chest measure. The Brace should be a size smaller than the chest- 
 measure, in order to give a half inch of room on each side next the arms, 
 to prevent it cutting around them. 
 
 To adjust the Stella Chest=Form Shoulder Brace, 
 
 Pass the under arm straps through the pockets found in the shoulder 
 straps on the corresponding sides. Pass the arms through the arm-holes 
 thus made, cross the under-arm straps in the back (as shown in PI. D, 
 fig. 7), bringing them to the front, hook them loosely over the hooks 
 found at the lower edge of the form The fulness across the bust should 
 be adjusted before the under arm bands are hooked ; the fulness can 
 be regulated to fit the form by the tying of the verticle cord in front, 
 and if properly adjusted will not make the wearer appear any fuller, 
 unless desired. Having adjusted the brace, attach the hose supporters 
 to the ends of the shoulder-straps in the back and fasten them to the 
 hose on each side under the knee, instead of at the front or side; this 
 gives the strain for the straightening of the figure. The tighter the hose 
 supporters are worn the greater the strain backward. Next, attach the 
 skirts to the short straps in front and the shoulder straps in the back. 
 To do this take the several bands up at once and pin with the safety pin 
 found in the straps; this makes a strong fastening and is much quicker 
 done than buttoning them on. In putting a waist on over the Brace, the 
 fulness should be kept well shoved back towards the arms, so that it 
 will not be crowded to the front and the shape spoiled and be uncom- 
 fortable, it should never be worn with dresses that are not perfectly 
 loose over it, or they will destroy its shape. If a dress is found to be too 
 tight, it may be easily altered as follows : Put it on over the Brace- 
 fastener from the bottom up to where it begins to bind. From this 
 point on each side of the buttons and button-holes, and about one and 
 one-half inches from them slit the dress up towards the neck as far as it 
 
binds, button the dress and cut two pieces of lining the shape of the 
 openings made by the incisions, allowing for a seam all around; remove 
 the waist and baste these into the openings, and if it is found to fit, which 
 it should, if properly done, cover the inserted pieces with trimming. If 
 the brace becomes soiled it is easily covered with silk or some thin ma- 
 terial. The cover should be cut on the bias and tied down in the middle 
 before the outer edges are fastened. 
 
 To adjust the Stella Hip Forms. 
 
 Place them upon the hips, with the selicia bands to the front, adjust the 
 fulness to the part-most needing it, then pin the selicia bands, lap the 
 extended portions in the back sufficiently to fit, and pin with the safety 
 pin. They may be stitched, if desired. They should never be drawn 
 tijdht around the waist, and should be worn next to the outside skirt, and 
 should be removed when lying down. They come in but one size, and 
 are rights and lefts. 
 
 To adjust the Stella Back Form. 
 
 (Plate E, fig. 9). As this is almost always worn with the Stella Brace* 
 it should always be put on after the Brace is on and the tapes at the 
 bottom, tied around the waist ; then it should be drawn up on to the 
 shoulder straps and pinned fast to them. Remove by slipping over the 
 head, stitch the parts pinned, and in putting on again slip over the head, 
 leaving the under-arm straps out of the pockets before mentioned, cross 
 them in the back under the Back Form and bring to the front as before, 
 and hook; then tie the tapes of the Back Form in front. The measurements 
 are taken the same as for the Brace, except they are taken of the back 
 instead of the chest. If worn without the brace, tapes should be fastened 
 to the shoulders and under the arms and tied across the chest, to hold it 
 in place. 
 
 The Stella Dress= Fitters 
 
 (Plate D, Hg. 8) are made of strong white jean, watch-spring steel and 
 strong brass hooks, securely eyeleted on. Before putting into the dress 
 they should be covered with the dress lining. It is best to put them in 
 after the front darts have been basted or stitched, or in a dress already 
 made. Place them one inch each way from the buttons and button-holes, 
 with the hooks turned outwardly. Trim the inner edges the shape of the 
 first dart, leaving enough goods to turn the edges in and for a seam. 
 After trimming the edges place the outer edge of the dart seam be- 
 tween the folded edges and stitch in place. On lacing over the hooks 
 do not pull the cords outwardly. Draw the cord tight enough to relieve 
 the dress fastenings of all strain. 
 
 The Stella Chest Form Shoulder Brace, 
 
 Back Form and Bustle, may be combined into one garment, as shown 
 in Plate E, figs. 9, 10 and 11, having attached the back to the shoulder 
 
straps of the brace, as directed, attach the bustle to the lower end of the 
 shoulder straps, leaving the ends underneath for fastening the hose-sup- 
 porters to. It is best to leave the hip forms separate, so that they may 
 be removed in lying down. When combined in this way the tapes 
 on the bustle are not needed. 
 
 The Stella Bustle 
 
 is made of heavy jean and rattan, and can be unlaced in the middle, as 
 shown in PI. E, fig. 8, and taken apart and laundried. It is exceedingly 
 light, cool and durable. 
 
 The Complexion. 
 
 A good complexion is of the greatest importance to a woman. 
 
 If she is fortunate enough to possess this priceless gem she can not 
 be too careful in preserving it. In our dry climate the skin can not stand 
 much water, as it causes it to chap and wrinkle. Almond oil is better 
 for cleansing the skin than water. Rub it on gently, always rubbing 
 downwardly. In a few minutes wipe off with a soft cloth; an old linen 
 napkin will be found good for the purpose. Then rub over with corn 
 starch or rice powder, to remove any appearance of oiliness- 
 
 This is especially good for dry, thick skins, that are inclined to 
 roughness. A little rose-water and. glycerine applied at night to the parts 
 inclined to wrinkle, will keep the Avrinkles away long after their time. If 
 the face is inclined to break out it is well not to wash it at all, but to bathe 
 the body daily, rubbing the back and chest briskly. By this means the 
 pimples may be induced to appear on the body instead of on the 
 face. The blood should be purified and the bowels kept open, for 
 no amount of external treatment will effect a permanent cure without. 
 Many faces become distorted and wrinkled from habits formed in child- 
 hood, such as rubbing it and pulling it into unnatural positions, or dis- 
 torting the muscles to give emphasis to their speech, or scowling, or 
 sleeping with the face nestled into the hand or pillow. 
 
 To prevent the habit of scowling or distorting any part of the face, 
 apply to the parts distorted, rubber court-plaster, and wear for a few 
 days; other court-plaster may be used if this can not be obtained ; but 
 the rubber is easier to remove and replace. This restraint upon the 
 muscles makes the wearer conscious of their use, thus enabling her to 
 control them. In sleeping the face should be laid on the edge of the 
 pillow, so that the cheek is not forced towards the nose, thus forming 
 crow-tracks around the inner portion of the eye. 
 
 The face should never receive violent treatment, such as brisk rub- 
 bing, massage, preparations that cause the skin to peel, or washing 
 with soap, as these tend to make the skin coarse and define the muscles. 
 Firm muscles are very well in any other part of the body, but we do not 
 want the face to look muscular. 
 
 Hoping that this little work may be of service to some of my sex 
 seeking personal improvement, I remain 
 
 Yours most truly. 
 
 ESTELLA CASE. 
 
n iiiiilli. 
 
 029 712 957 Oi