,. ^ ■>^' > — X ^' Popular Gentleman System For Cutting and Designing Of MEN'S Garments PUBLISHED BY Popular Gentleman Service Company LOCK BOX 6345 W. PHILADELPHIA, PA. <\ K J C()]p.vrinht 1017 by ropular (it'iitlemiui Servire Company m 29 1917 / I y ^ ©CIA4R720S LIMITED EDITION. This edition is limited to one thousand complete copies of which this is No. . This copyright volume is for the exclusive use of of POPULAR GENTLEMAN SERVICE COMPANY. 1917 Edition "A" DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO TAKE A DEPRESSION MEASURE Diagram No I Normal TiGune The yard stick must always be straight up and down and not lean in or out at the top or bottom. Use the yardstick as shown in Diagrams 1-2 and 3. Diagram 1 shows how to hold the yard stick and square. Measure in for the waist depression from the edge of the yard stick to the hollow part of the waist which is 2 inches for a normal man, but can be more or less. WAIST Depression Seat Depression DIAGRAM No. ^ Stooping Form and Sway to Front Diagram No. 2 shows the stooping and sway to the front form. The distance from the yard stick to the hollow part of waist is 2V2 inches, but can be more or less. The distance from the yard stick in to the seat is li/o inches, but can be more or less. When drafting trousers for this form deduct the seat depression from the waist depression before drafting and the difference gives you the cor- rect waist depression for the trousers. Bl_AOE Otr>RCSSION Waist DtPRtSSlOM Diagram No. 3 Diagram No. 3 shows the erect form with large seat. When drafting a coat for a form of this kind, deduct the blade depression from the waist depression and draft the pattern. After the pattern is drafted add to the &eat measure the amount you reduced the waist depression. When drafting trousers draft them the full waist depression measure always. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE Diagram No. I Diagram No.3 Take the breast and waist measure and then place the square up under the arm as shown, and mark in the front and back of the arm at the top of square as Diagram No. 1. Place the edge of the square on the mark at the back of arm and square across as shown. Mark in the center of the back at the top of the square for the scye depth as shown in Diagram No. 3. Diagram Ho.Z Diagram Na4- Place the square over the top of the should- er and mark in back of the square in front of arm scye as Diagram No. 2. Take the scye depth and waist length, also the length of seat and the full length as shown in Diagram No. 4. Diagram No.5 D/AGRAM No. 6 Take the strap measure from the center seam in the back of vest at the neck down to the mark in front of arm as shown on Dia- gram No. 5. Take the over shoulder measure from the scye depth mark in the center of the back, across the shoulder and down to the mark in front of the arm as shown on Diagram No. 6. Diagram No. 7 Take the blade measure from the mark in front of arm, around to the seam in the center of the back as shown on Diagram No. 7. HOW TO ENLARGE MEASURE To get an easy sack coat you should increase the breast and waist mea- sure one or more sizes or as much as is wanted for ease. None of the other measures should be changed if they have been taken correctly, namely: the strap measure, the overshoulder measure or scye depth. In cutting overcoats take the measures of the vest, and enlarge the breast and waist measures 3 inches for regular overcoat, or as much as is wanted for size. Do not enlarge the overshoulder, strap measure or scye depth as you add to the above measures by dropping the arm scye which is shown on the drafts. If the above is followed out closely you will get good results. 10 HOW TO OPEN VEST FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM The solid black lines show the vest after it is opened. The broken lines show the vest before it is opened. The solid black space from the side at the point D across to the front at point C shows how the vest is filled in. Draw a line back from the pocket to A and cut the pattern from A in to B and thru to C. Open the pattern from A to D 14 of aii i'lch for each inch stout. Paste a piece of paper over the opening from the front point at C back to point D and draw a line from D to B. Take out the space between A and D and into B. This leaves the solid black space filled in as diagram, which gives the length over the stomach for the stout. This finishes the diagram. 11 DIAGRAM SHOWING NORFOLK OVER REGULAR SACK COAT A is located at the front sleeve notch. Square across from A to get B. Cut the pattern thru from A to B and add V2 inch for seams. C is located at the top of the side seam in the arm scye. Square across from C to get D. Open the pattern thru from C to D and allow y.> inch for seams. A to E is 3 inches. E to E-1 is 2 inches. Draw a line from E down to get E-2. E-2 to E-3 is 2 inches. This forms the front strap. I-ay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the front strap. F is located at the normal waist line. F-1 is located at the normal waist line. F-2 is located at the normal waist line. Draw a line from F-2 to the front of coat above the bottom button 1 inch to get F-3. Go down from F, F-1, F-2 and F-3 for the width of belt 2 inches and shape as diagram. G is half way between F and F-1. G to G-1 is 1 inch. G to G-2 is 1 inch. Square up from G-1 to locate G-4. Square up from G-2 to locate G-3. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the back strap. Open the pattern thru at the side seams and lay the side seams of fore part and back together. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt. This finishes the diagram. 13 HOW TO OPEN A COAT FOR A STOUT MAN AS SHOWN ON DIAGRAM (tpen the pattern at the under arm seam from the arm hole down to the pocket at H. Cut thru pattern from H to H-1 which is 1/2 inch back from the front edge of pocket. Open the pattern from H-1 to D-6. Open the pattern as diagram at H Vi inch for each inch stout or as much as you want to give for ease. Cut a strip of paper the shape of the opening from H to H-1 and D-6. Paste the strip of paper over the opening from D-G to H-1 and H. The solid black shown on diagram is how the coat is to be filled in. Cut from H in to H-1 and take out the white space from top of pocket at H and into H-1. Take off the side body at H as nnich as it laps. This finishes the diagram for the stout. 14 DIAGRAM OF SOLID PINCH BACK A and B is the normal waist line. Come up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C and D. E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. Draw a line from E to F. Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. Add 14 inch to E to get E-1. ohape the back at diagram. E-1 to X is 2 inches. Square up and down from X. X to X-1 is 21/2 inches. Square up and down from X-1. Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram. Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram. This finishes the diagram. 15 DIAGRAM OF HALF PINCH BACK DIAGRAM 1. Diagram 1 shows the normal waist line at A and B. Go up from A and B 2 inches to get C and D. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the belt as at A, B, C andD. E and F is half way between A and C and B and D. Draw a line from E to F. 16 DIAGRAM 2. Cut the pattern thru on line E and F as diagram 2. Add 1/2 inch at F to get F-1. Add 14 inch at E to E-1. Shape the back as diagram at E-1 and F-1. X is 2 inches in from E-1. Square up from X. X to X-1 is 21/2 inches. Square up from X-1. Pinch in as much at X as you add at F as diagram. Pinch in as much at X-1 as you add at E as diagram. If where the back is split thru is to be seamed up allow 1/2 inch for the seams. This finishes the diagram. 17 REGULAR TROUSERS The measurements are as follows : Outside seam 41 in. Inseam 32 in. Waist 31 in. Knee ._ Seat 37 in. Bottom Depression 2 inches. 19 in. 16 in. Square down and out from 1. 1 to 3 is the rise 9 inches. 1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 41 inches. ■! is half way between 3 and 6. o is 1Y> inch up from 4. 2 is Vs seat up from 3. Square out from 2, 3, 5 and G. 3 to 7 is 1/2 seat. 7 to 8 is 1-32 seat. 18 8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. 9 to 10 is 1-32 seat. 11 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point 12. 12 to 13 is l^ waist plus l^ inch. 12 to 14 is 14. waist plus 14 inch. Draw a line from 13 to 7, this gives you point 15. Draw a line from 13 to 8. L'raw a line from 14 to 2. 16 is half way between 7 and 9. Square down from 16 to get point 17. 17 to 18 is 1/0 inch. 18 to 19 is y-> bottom or 8 inches. 20 is half way between 18 and 19. Draw a line from 20 up thru the knee to 11, this locates point 21, at the knee. 21 to 22 is 1,4 knee measure. 21 to 23 is 14 knee measure. Draw a line from 18 to 22 and from 19 to 23 and up to point 2. Shape side seam from 9 to 22, and from 10 to 22. Shape from 13 down to 10. Take out dress from 13 to 15 and down thru 9 to 10. Shape side seam from 14 to 2. This finishes the fore part. BACK PART. Square out from points 1, 13, 2, 3, 10, 22 and 18. 23 to 24 is Y> inch. 22 to 25 is 1/2 inch. 1 8 to 26 is 1/2 inch. 19 to 27 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from 27 to 24. Draw a line from 26 to 25. 10 to 28 is i/s seat. Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 29 to 30 is the depression measure 2 inches. Place long arm of square on point 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square rests on line 1 and apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is 9% inches on short arm of square, so that it falls on hne 1 as diagram, and gives you point 31. Now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and 15 and shape the back seam as diagram dropping 14 inch below point 28. 31 to 32 is 3 inches. 32 to 33 is 1 inch. Take out V at 32 and 33. 2 to 34 is l'^/4, inches. Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. This finishes the draft. 19 STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS The measurements are : — Outside seam 42 in. Seat 44 in. Depression measure „, . ,, , ... at waist 2 in. Inseam 31 m. Abdomen 44 m. ^^^^ gi in. Waist 42 in. Rise 11 in. Bottom 17 in. 20 Square down and out from 1. 1 to 3 is the rise 11 inches. 1 to 6 is the outside seam measure 42 inches. ■i is half way between 3 and 6. 5 is IV2 inches up from 4. 2 is Vr seat up from 3. Square out from 2, 3, 5 and 6. 8 to 7 is 1/2 seat. 7 to 8 is 1-32 seat. 8 to 9 is 1-12 seat. 9 to 10 is 1-32 seat. 1 1 is half way between 9 and 3. Square up from 11 to get point 12. 12 to 13 is 14 waist plus 14 of an inch. 12 to 14 is 14 waist plus i/i. of an inch. 12 to F is 1-6 abdomen measure. Square out from F. F to F-1 is 14 abdomen measure. F-2 is 14 of an inch from F-1. F-3 is 1-32 waist up from 13. Draw a line from 14 to F-3. Draw a line from F-3 to F-1 and from F-3 to F-2. Draw a line from 27 to 24. Draw a line from 26 to 25. 10 to 28 is Vb seat. Shape from 28 to 25. Square up from point 8 to get point 29. 29 to 30 is incline measure at waist 2 inches. Place long arm of square on points 15 and 30 so that the short arm of square rests on line squared back from 1 — now apply 14 of the waist measure plus 2 inches for seams and make up, which in this case is 121/2 inches on short arm of square so that it falls on line squared back from 1 as diagram and gives you point 31, now draw a line from 31 across to corner of square and down to 30 and 15. Now shape the back seam as diagram dropping 1/4 of an inch below point 28. "1 to 32 is 3 inches. 32 to 33 is 1 inch. Take out V at 32 and 33. 2 to 34 is 134 inches. Shape from 31 to 34 and from 34 to 24. This finishes the draft. 21 GOLF TROUSERS The measurements are as follows : — Outside length 30 in. Inseam length 21 in. Waist 32 in. Seat 38 in. Knee length 23 in. Small of knee length 25 in. Calf length __._ 29 in. Rise 9 in. Knee ISi/i in- Small of knee _14 in. Calf 15 in. Depression 2 in. Square down and out from 1. 1 to A is the rise 9 inches. 1 to B is the knee length. 1 to C is the small of knee length plus 1 inch. 1 to D is the calf length jjIus 1 inch. Square out from A, B- C, and D. A to A-1 is 1/2 seat plus i/j inch. A-1 to A-2 is 1-12 seat plus 1/2 inch. Scjuare up and down from A-1 to get points 2 and B-1. Point 15 is ' inches. A to E is the waist length 17 inches. Square out from D and E. E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates point D-1. D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 111 4. inches. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-4 is halfway between D-1 and D-3. D-5 is 11/2 inch in front of D-4. Square up from D-5. A to 1 is 1/8 breast plus •;4. of an inch. Square up from 1. D-D to X is i/jj breast plus % of an inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 1. D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of the back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 5-16 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 or 18 inches. D-8 is 1/0 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 inches. E-4 is 1/2 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 4 is I/4. breast from 2. 5 is 14 breast less 14. inch from A-1. 6 is % of an inch below 5. X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 14. inch in from D-8. X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 14 inch in from E-4. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru D-3. Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. A-3 is 1 a breast plus % of an inch up from A-1. 10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. A-3 to A-5 is V-i inch. A-5 to A-6 is 1 inch. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. Line D-8 and E-4 is center vest front. Draw a hne from A-1 thru M to front of vest. The top button is 6 inches down from M and they are 3 inches apart. The top button is 21/4 inches back from cen- ter vest line. The center button is IV2 inch back from cen- ter vest line, draw a line from the top button thru the center button to get the space of the bottom button extend out in front of center vest line % of an inch more than you come back from the cen- ter vest line for the buttons and shape the front from A-5 thru A-4 and M and on thru to G-1. Shape stand and collar from A-6 down to front of vest. Shape the back from A down to 10 as dia- gram. Lay a piece of paper under the pattern and trace off the collar. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- ply the amount at D-3, measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus -j^ of an inch for make up. Apply overshoulder measure plus % of an inch for make up on broken lines. This finishes the draft. -d^ 31 CLERICAL VEST The measurements are as follows :- Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. Scye depth ^_ 8i/o in. Waist lenpfth 17 in. Full length 27 in. Side length ___ 231/. in. Blade llVi in. Strap 111/2 in. Over shoulder 1(5 "• 1. in. Collar 141/^ in. Square down and out from A. A to A-A is i/h breast plus •' ^ of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/2 inches. A to E is the waist length 17 inches. Square out from D and E. E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate D-1. D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure llVi. inches. Square up from D-3 to get point D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5 is 11/0 inch in from D-4. Square up from D-5. A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1. D-D to X is 1 8 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 1. D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 or 18 inches. D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 16 inches. E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. A-2 is Vs breast plus 1/2 inch down from A-1. Square out from A-2. 4 is 14 breast from 2. 5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 6 is % of an inch below 5. X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-8. X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch from D-1. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-4. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru D-3. Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. A-3 is Vij breast plus 1 inch up from A-1. 10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. Shape from A down to 10. Shape neck from A-1 to the front as diagram. Apply collar size from A to 2 and from A-1 down plus %. of an inch to A-4. A-5 is 1 inch from A-4. Shape from A-5 thru D-8 and E-4 down to G as diagram. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- ply this amount at D-3 ; measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus 1 inch. Apply the over shoulder measure on broken lines plus % of an inch. Diagram of collar is shown on vest front. THE COLLAR. Measure the full size of neck hole, in this case it is 8 inches and deduct -Ji of an inch for seams which leaves 714 collar size and draft as follows : Draw a straight line from A. A to B is 714 inches. Square down from A half the collar size which is 3-% inches to C. Square over from C and down from B to get D. D to E is collar width 1 ' 1. inch. A to F is collar width I14 inch. Square out from F as diagram. Place your collar size on D and line F to get G. Draw a line from D to G. Square up from G the width of collar to get point H. Draw a line from H to E and shape as dia- gram. This finishes the draft. Mti. 33 FULL DRESS VEST Breast 38 in. Waist 34 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows : — Scye depth __ Syis in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __28 in. Over shoulder 17 y^ in- Strap 12 in. Blade 11% in. Side length _ _ 24 in. Opening 18 in. 34 M Square down and out from A. A to A-A is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/0 inches. A-A to D gives the proportions for the strap measure. A to D gives the proportions for the scye depth. A to E is the waist length 17 inches. Square out from D and E. E to E-1 is the waist depression 2 inches. Draw a line from E-1 to B which locates point D-1. D-1 to D-2 is 1 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure 11%. inches. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-4 is half way between D-1 and D-3. D-5 is IV2 inch in front of D-4. Square up from D-5. A to 1 is 1/3 breast plus % of an inch. Square up from 1. D-D to X is % breast plus '-''/i. of an inch. Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2 above 1. D-3 to D-6 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 3 7-16 inches. Square up from D-6 to get point A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. D-7 is one half the breast measure from D-2 or 19 inches. D-8 is 114 inch out from D-7. E-1 to E-2 is 2 inches. E-2 to E-3 is half the waist measure or 17 inches. E-4 is 114 inch out from E-3. Square down from E-3. Draw a line from E-4 up thru D-8. 4 is 14 breast from 2. 5 is 1/4 breast less 14 inch from A-1. 6 is % of an inch below 5. X-1 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-8. X-2 is 1/2 breast plus 1 inch in from D-1. E-5 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-4. E-6 is 1/2 waist plus 1 inch in from E-1. Shape from X-1 to E-5 and from X-2 to E-6. X-3 is 1 inch below D-5. X-4 is 1 inch below D-3. Draw a line from X-4 to X-3. Shape top of back from A to 2. Shape shoulder from 6 to A-1. Shape front of arm scye from 6 down thru D-3. Shape from 4 thru D-5 and down. A-3 is i/a breast plus % of an inch up from A-1. 10 is 2 inches below E-1. A-3 to G is the side length plus 1 inch. A-3 to G-1 is the full length plus 1 inch. Shape from 10 to G and from G to G-1. A-1 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. A-3 to A-5 is 1 inch. A-3 to M is the opening plus 1 inch. Square back from M 1-6 breast to locate M-1. Draw a line from A-4 to M-1. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down to M as diagram. Shape stand and collar from A-5 down to M as diagram. Shape from M to E-4 and down to G-1. Shape the back from A down to 10. Lay piece of paper under pattern and trace off the collar. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- ply the amount at D-3 and measure on line drawn from D-3 to A-1, this gives you the strap measure plus % of an inch for make up. Aiply over shoulder measure on broken lines plus -^^ I of an inch for make up. This finishes the draft. IIl 35 REGULAR SLEEVE FOR SACK COAT AND OVERCOAT 36 "W The measurements are as follows : — • Arm scye 18 inches. Inseam length 18 inches. Draft as follows : Square down and back from A. A to B is 14 the arm scye. B to C is 1 inch. B to D is the inseam length. E is half way between B and D. Square out and back from B, E and D. B to B-1 is 114, inch. E to E-1 is 34 of an inch. D to D-1 is V/i inch. Draw a line from B-1 to E-1 and from E-1 to D-1 and shape. C to A-1 is 1/2 the arm scye. Draw a line from C to A-1. X is half way between C and A-1. Square up 14 the arm scye from X to locate X-1. Draw a line from X-1 to C and from X-1 to A-1. Square down from A-1 to locate B-2 and E-2. Square up from line B-1 and B-2 thru X to locate X-2 and B-3. Shape from A-1 to X-2 and down thru C to B-1. A-1 to A-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from A-2 to B-3. B-4 is 114 inch back from B. D-2 is 114 inch back from D. Draw a line from B-4 to D-2 to locate E-3. E-3 to E-4 is 34 of an inch. Shape from B-4 thru E-4 to D-2. Shape from A-2 down thru B-3 to B-4. E-2 to E-5 is % of an inch. D to D-3 is the cuff size or 13 on the halves. Square down I14 inch from D-3 to get D-4. Draw a line from D-4 to D and shape. Draw a line from A-1 to E-5 and from E-5 to D-4 and shape. Draw a line from A-2 to E-5 and shape. This finishes the draft. 37 -m/r The measurements are as follows: Arm scye 22 inches. Inseam 18 inches. Front shoulder height 10l^ in. Front shoulder width 5% in. Full shoulder width 7l/_> in. Back shoulder width 614. in. Back shoulder height 714. in. Under arm scye measure of sleeve 10 in. Square down and in from A. A to B is the front shoulder height. B to C is 1 inch. C to D is the inseam length. E is half way between C and D. F is 14 the arm scye measure up from C. Square back from F, C, E and D. Square out from C, E and D. B to F-1 is 1/2 the arm scye measure. Draw a line from B to F-1. B-1 is half way between B and F-1. Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1 on line B and F-1 to locate X. Draw a line from X to F-1. Square up and down from F-1 to locate C-1, E-1 and D-1. Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to locate C-2 and X-1. Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 and X-3. F-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. Square in from A-A. X-1 to X-4 is the front shoulder width. X-1 to X-5 is the back shoulder width. Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-1 to line A to locate A-1. A-1 to A-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate X-6. X-6 to X-7 is 1/2 inch. Sweep from X-5 pivoting on X-1 back to line A-A to locate A-3. A-3 to A-4 is 1/2 inch. Apply the full shoulder width measure plus 1 inch from X-7 to X-3 and take out half the amount on each side of X-1 that the distance from X-7 to X-3 is larger than the full shoulder width measure with the inch added which locates points X-8 and X-9. C-1 to C-3 is the same as from C-2 to C-1. Draw a line from X-3 to C-3. C to C-4 is 11/2 inch. Square down from C-4 to locate D-2. Shape from C-4 to D-2 as diagram. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. Draw a line from D-3 to D. D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 71/2 inches. Shape from D-4 to D-2. Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. D-1 to D-5 is the same as from D-1 to D less 11/2 inch. Draw a line from D-5 to D-3. D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4. Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape. Shape from A-1 to X-7 and down thru B to C-4. Shape from A-3 to X-3 and down as diagram. Apply the back shoulder height measure from A-3 down to locate 0. Apply the under arm scye measure plus 2 inches from B to C-4 and place this amount on O and measure down to lo- cate C-5. Shape from C-5 to D-5. D-7 is half way between D and D-4. E-2 is half way between E and E-1. Shape from A-2 down thru X-9, keep 14 inch back of points C, E-2 and D-7. Shape from A-4 down thru X-8, keep 14 inch in front of points C-2, E-2 and D-7. The 1/2 inch is for seams and must be allow- ed after cutting out the pattern, if seam is wanted in the back of sleeve make the changes as per broken lines. This finishes the draft. jm: 39 ta?" SOLID RAGLAN SLEEVE •-4- OS 40 IK The measurements are as follows: — Arm scye 22 inches. Inseam length 18 inches. Front shoulder width 5% inches. Under arm scye measure 10 inches. Square down from A. A to B is i/j. the arm scye measure. C is 1 inch up from B. B to D is the inseam length. E is half way between B and D. Square back from A, B, E and D. Square out from B and D. B to B-1 is 11/2 inch. Square down from B-1 to locate D-1. Shape from B-1 to D-1. C to A-1 is 1/0 the arm scye. Draw a line from C to A-1. X is half way between C and A-1. Square up from X on line C and A-1 Vi the arm scye to get X-1. Draw a line from X-1 to A-1. Square down from A-1 to locate B-2, E-1 and D-2. D-3 is 2 inches below D-2. Draw a line from D-3 to D. D to D-4 is the width of cuff or 7y-> inches. Shape from D-4 to D-1. Draw a line from E-1 to D-4 and shape. D-2 to D-5 is the same as from D to D-2 less 11/2 inch. Draw a line from D-5 to D-3. D-3 to D-6 is the same as from D-3 to D-4. Draw a line from E-1 to D-6 and shape. Square up from line B and B-2 thru X to lo- cate X-2 and B-3. B-2 to B-4 is the same as from B-2 to B-3. Square up 1 inch from A-1 to locate A-2 for the back sleeve notch. Square back li/> inch from X-2 to locate X-3. X-2 to X-4 is the front shoulder width — less 1/2 inch. Sweep from X-4 pivoting on X-3 to the front. X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch. X-5 to X-6 is 1 inch. Draw a line from X-5 to C. Shape from X-6 down to C and B-1. Draw a line from X-5 to A-2. Draw a line from B-4 to A-2. Shape from X-5 to A-2 and down as diagram. Apply the under arm scye measure plus 3 inches from C to B-1 and A-2 down to B-5. Shape from B-5 to D-6. Shape from D-5 to D-6. This finishes the draft. 41 BALMACANN SLEEVE The meusurements are as follows: — Arm scye 22 inches. Inseam 18 inches. Front shoulder heij^ht 101 i. inches. Front under arm scj'e length 5 inches. Front shoulder width 5'"' i inches. Back shoulder height 7' |, inches. Back shoulder width 6V! inches. Back under arm scye length 9' o inches. Full shoulder width 7V1> inches. Draft as follows : Square down and in from A. A to B is the front shoulder height. B to C is 1 inch. C to D is 11/2 inch. C to E is the inseam length. F is half way between E and C. G is 14. the arm scye measure up from C. Square back from G, C, D, F and E. B to G-1 is 1/0 the arm scye measure. Draw a line from B to G-1. B-1 is half way between B and G-1. Square up 14 the arm scye measure from B-1 on line B and G-1 to locate X. Draw a line from X to G-1. Square up and down from G-1 to locate C-1, F-1 and E-1. Square out from D and E. E to E-2 is the cuff size 16 inches on the halves. E-3 is half way between E and E-2. E to E-4 is the same as from E to E-3. Square up from E-4 to locate D-1. E-1 to E-5 is the same as from E-1 to E-2. E-5 to E-6 is the same as from E-2 to E-3. Square up from E-6 to locate D-2. Square down IV2 inch from E-2 to get 1. Draw a line from 1 to E and shape from 1 to E dropping at E-4 as diagram. Draw a line from F-1 to 1 and shape. Square down IV2 inch from E-5 to get 2. Draw a line from F-1 to 2 and shape. Drop below E-6 the same as below E-4 and shape to 2. F-2 is half way between F and F-1. Square up from line C and C-1 thru B-1 to locate X-1 and C-2. Square out and back from X-1 to locate X-2 and X-3. G-1 to A-A is the back shoulder height. Square in from A-A. X-1 to A-1 is the front shoulder width. X-1 to A-2 is the back shoulder width. Sweep from A-1 to line A, pivoting on X-1 to locate A-3. Draw a line from A-3 to B to locate X-4. X-4 to X-5 is 1/2 inch. Shape from A-3 down thru X-5, B and thru to D-1. B to D-3 is the front under arm scye length plus 1/2 inch. Draw a line from D-3 to E-4. A-3 to A-4 is 1 inch. Sweep from A-2 pivoting on X-1 to line A-A to locate A-5. A-5 to A-6 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from X-2 to D-2. Shape from A-5 down thru X-2 to line D-2. Apply the back shoulder height from A-5 down to locate 0. Apply the back under arm scye length from down to D-4 plus II/2 inch. Draw a line from D-4 to E-6. Measure the distance from X-5 to X-2 which in this case is 9 inches, add 1 inch to the full shoulder width measure, which makes it 8V2 inches, apply the 8V2 inch- es from X-5 to X-2 and take the V2 inch out at X-1 as diagram 14 inch on each side of X-1, which gives you points X-6 and X-7. Shape from A-4 down thru X-7 and keep V2 inch back of C-2, F-2 and E-3. Shape from A-6 down thru X-6 and keep 1/2 inch in front of C-2, F-2 and E-3. Cut the pattern thru from A-6 down to the cuff and paste a piece of paper on the fore part of the sleeve, then lay the pattern together the same as before it was cut and trace off the fore part from line A-4 down. This finishes the draft. .iH. 43 REGULAR SACK COAT Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows: — Scye depth _ 8 1/2 in. Waist length 17 in. Full length ^_30 in. Seat 37 in. Blade lll^ in. Overshoulder -16% in. Strap 111/2 in. Square down and out from A. A to A-A is i/s breast plus % of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/0 inches always. The above from A-A to D gives the propor- tions for the strap measure. A to D is the proportions for the scye depth. A to E is the waist length. A to F is 6 inches. "-*'" 44 A to G is the full length. Square out from D, E, F and G. E to E-1 is the waist depression. E-2 is half way between E and E-1. Square down from E-2 to locate F-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1 . D-2 is 114 inch in from D-1. A to 1 is i/s breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1. D-2 to D-.3 is the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. D-D to X is i/y breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to get point 2 above 1. D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. D-5 is li/> inch in from D-4. Square up and down from D-.5 to locate points E-3, F-2, G-2. D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. Draw a line from D-7 to D-6. D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch. D-9 is 1/2 the width of back from D-5 to D-2 in front of D-3. Square up from D-9 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate point 3. Draw a line from 2 through 3 e.xtending I/2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. 5 is 1-12 breast up from D-6. Square out in front of 5, % of an inch to lo- cate 6. E-4 is the same distance from E-3 as from E-1 to E-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from A to 2 and from 4 to 14 inch in front of 5 as diagram. Shape from 14 inch back of 6 to E-4, F-2 and G-2 as diagram. D-10 is one half the breast measure out from D-2. D-11 is 214 inches out from D-10. E-1 to E-5 is 2 inches half the amount that waist is smaller than the breast. E-5 to E-6 is half the waist measure. E-6 to E-7 is 134 inches. Draw a line from E-7 up through D-11. Square down from E-7 to locate G-3. G-3 to G-4 is 3 inches. G-3 to G-5 is 3 inches. F-2 to F-3 is the same as from F to F-1 plus 114. inches. Draw a line from E-3 through F-3. Shape the side seam as diagram. E-3 to G-6 is the same as from E-4 to G-2. Draw a line from G-6 to G-4. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2 to locate A-3. Go down 91/2 inches from A-3 to get bottom of roll. A-4 is 114 inch in front of A-1. Draw a line from the bottom of roll up through A-4 and from A-1 back on the opposite side of square. Shape from A-1 to A-3. A-1 to 7 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 7. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through D-8 down. Shape from 6 down. The arm scye measure is 18 14 inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from D-6 to get point X-X for the back sleeve notch. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 14 inch. A-6 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line at lapel. Drop your collar % of an inch below A-6 as diagram and shape from A-1 down. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and lapel. Shape from bottom of lapel down through E-7 and G-5. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. Apply the strap measure by measuring the amount from A to 2 and placing the amount on D-3 and measure up to A-1 plus 1 inch. This finishes the draft. 45 THREE BUTTON D. B. SACK COAT Breast 38 in. Waist 34 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows : Scye depth _. 8"h in. Waist length 17 in. FuU length --301/. in. Seat 39 in. Blade 11%. in. Overshoulder -IT'^ in. Strap 12 in. 4G Square down and out from A. A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. \ D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 114. inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch in from A. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is IV2 inch in from C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. G is ■■; 4. of an inch down from C-5. G-1 is 3,4 of an inch down from C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3 in this case it is 3% inches. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 through 3 extending 1/2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-12 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. Shape from A to 2. Shape from 4 to i'4. inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 8 is 1/2 iiich below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-7 to C-8 is 414 inches. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 414 inches. Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus ^^ of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from i/4 inch back of 7 to D-7. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as E to E-1 plus 1V4 inch. Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down. Shape the side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Square down from D-5 to locate F-4. F-5 is 3 inches in front of F-4. Square down 2V2 inches from F-5 to locate F-6. Draw a line from F-3 to F-6. Draw a line from D-6 to F-6. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The roll is 13 inches long or 13 inches be- low line A-2. Draw a line from A-3 to bottom of lapel. A-4 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. Apply over shoulder and strap measure the same as on the regular sack coat. The sleeve and collar are also the same. This finishes the draft. 47 m STOUT MANS SACK COAT Breast 44 in. Waist 44 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows : Scye depth 10 in. Waist length __ 17 in. Full length ___ 30 in. Seat 45 in. Blade 131/4. in. Overshoulder -19% in. Strap 131/2 in- ^ 48 :ii: Square down and out from A. A to B is Vs breast plus •' j. of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates point C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is % breast plus 1 inch in from A. Square up from A to get 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. G is -j^ of an inch down from C-5. G-1 is •'■ V of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3 or 3% inches in this case. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1 . Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-12 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. Shape from A to 2. Shape from 4 to Vi inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/0 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5 . Shape from 8 to A-1 as diagram. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less Vi inch for each inch the waist is larger than normal. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. A-1 to A-2 is ViJ breast plus •'? i. of an inch. Square out from A-2. Draw a line from top of line C-5 to the front of line A-2 and shape the neck from A-1 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is 1/2 the amount from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus 114 inch. Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Square down from D-6 to locate F-4. F-4 to F-5 is 3 inches. F-4 to F-6 is 3 inches. Draw a line from F-3 to F-5. Shape from D-6 down thru F-6 as diagram. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The length of lapel is 9 inches. Draw a line from the bottom of lapel to A-3. A-4 is half the length of lapel. Lay your square on A-4 and A-3 and draw a line back from A-3 on the two sides of the square. A-1 to A-5 is V2 inch more than from A to 2. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and lapel. The arm scye is 22 inches. G to XX is 14 the arm scye measure for back sleeve notch. Apply overshoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. Apply strap measure from A to 2 and from C-3 to A-1 plus 1 inch. This finishes the draft. 49 ■'.'■T SACK COAT FOR STOOPING AND SWAY TO FRONT FORM Breast 38 in. Waist 36 in. Waist dep's'n 1-2 1/2 in. The measurements are as follows : Scye depth __ 914 in. Wai.st length 17 in. Full length __30 in. Seat 40 in. Blade 12ii in. Overshoulder .18 in. Strap 11''54 in. 50 Square down and out from A. A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 coat or 11% inches in this case. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 121/4. inches. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch up frum X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch in front of A. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. C-5 is 11/2 inch plus the difference from K to C-3 in front of C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. G is % of an inch below C-5. G-1 is -''/i. of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or 3"'a inches in this case. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 to 3. 6 is 1-12 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. Shape from 3 to 14 inch in front of 6. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 3 less 1/2 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 through G-2 and down. Shape from 7 dowr. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches less 1,4 inch for each inch waist is larger than norma,l (\v 11/2 inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-6 up through C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 3 inches. H to H-2 is 3 inches. A-2 to A-3 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-3. Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is one half the amount from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from l^ inch back of 7 to D-7. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 through E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is 114 inch. You can see by the diagram of the stooping form and sway to the front form that the yard stick is 1 inch away from the seat, therefore you do not add the amount from E to E-1 in with E-3. Draw a line from D-3 through E-3 down. Shape the side seams. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. A-4 is 11/4. inch in front of A-1. The lapel is 9 inches below line A-3 at top button. Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 2 inches in front of the crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. The sleeve and collar are the same as the re- gular sack coat. Take 1/2 inch out of the back as per broken lines. This finishes the draft. 51 I — as- a. -^m SACK COAT FOR ERECT FORM WITH FULL CHEST, SMALL WAIST AND BACK The measurements are as follows : — Breast 38 in. Waist 33 in. Waist dep's'n 2i/o-l in. Scye depth __ 8I/2 in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __30 in. Seat 39. Blade ±^ Overshoulder -17 Strap 121/2 in. 111/4 in. 14 in. 52 Square down and out from A. A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression 2V2 inches less the 1 inch at the blade or IV2 inch depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B which locates C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to K is the normal blade measure for a 38 coat which is 11% inches. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure 11^4 inches. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is Va breast plus 1 inch in from A. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and K. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch for the regular coat, but in this case deduct the difference from C-3 to K from the IV2 inch to get point C-5. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-2 and F-2. G is 34 of an inch below C-5. G-1 is % of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of K or SVa inches. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the neck from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3 and measure up the amount of the strap measure plus 1 inch to locate A-2. Draw a line from A-2 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 '"ch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-12 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to get 7. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front of 6. A-2 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-2. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 214 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches plus 14 inch for each inch that the waist is smaller than nor- mal or 2 i/t inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to HI is 3 inches. H to H-2 is 3 inches. A-2 to A-3 is Vh breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-3. Shape the neck from A-2 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 to D-7. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 to F-2. E-2 to E-3 is 1 inch taken off the depression measure and the amount from E to E-1 plus 114 inch or 3 inches. Draw a line from D-3 thru E-3 down. Shape the side seam. D-3 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1. A-4 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The lapel is 10 inches below line A-3. Draw a line from A-4 to the bottom of lapel. A-5 is 21/2 inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front as diagram. The sleeve and collar are the same as for the regular sack coat. Apply over shoulder measure the same as for regular sack coat. This finishes the draft. -i?=H 53 MILITARY COAT Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows : — Scye depth __ S'/j in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __30 in. Seat 37. Collar size 14V2- Blade . llVi. in. Overshoulder -16'^'\. in. Strap . 111/2 in. Sciuare down and out from A. A to A-A is Vji breast plus -^ 1 of an inch. A to B is the same as from A to A-A. A-A to C is 1/2 breast. C to D is 21/2 inches always. The above from A-A to D gives you the pro- portions for the strap measure which is 111/. inches in this case. I'rom A to D gives you the proportions for the .scye depth, which in this case is 8'/2 inches. A to E is the waist length 17 inches. V is 6 1/2 inches below E. A to G is the full length. Square out from D, E, F and G. E to E-1 is the waist depression. E-2 is half way between E and E-1. Draw a line from E-2 to B to locate D-1. G-1 is the same distance from G as E-2 is from E. Draw a line from E-2 to G-1 and tind point F-1 on line F. D-1 toD-2 is 114 inch. D-2 to D-3 is the blade measure. Square up from D-3 to locate D-D. The proportions for the blade measure is I/2 breast and 3I/2 inches from D-1 to D-3. 54 D-4 is half way between D-3 and D-1. D-5 is 11/2 inch in from D-4. Square up from D-5. D-6 is % of an inch below D-5. D-7 is % of an inch below D-3. Draw a line from D-3 to D-7 and from D-5 to D-6. Draw a line from D-6 to D-7. D-8 is 1 inch up from D-7 for front sleeve notch. D-9 is one half breast out from D-1. D-10 is half way between D-1 and D-9. D-2 to D-11 is one half the breast measure. E-1 to E-3 is 2 inches. E-3 to E-4 is one half the waist measure. D-3 to D-12 is one half the width of back from D-5 to D-2 or 314, inches in this case. Square up from D-12 to get A-1. A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1. D-D to X is V« breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A to locate point 2. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14 inch out from 3 to get point 4. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less % of an inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1 as diagram. Shape from A to 2. 7 is half way between 3 and D-6. 8 is % of an inch out from 7. Square a line from D-9 down to bottom of coat which locates point E-5 at waist and F-2 at hip. F-2 to F-3 is 11/2 inch. E-5 to E-6 is 1 inch. Shape from D-9 to E-5 thru F-3 and down. Shape from D-9 to E-6 thru F-2 and down. E-7 is half way between E-6 and D. Square down from E-7 to get point F-4 on line F. F-4 to F-5 is IV4 inch. E-8 is 1 inch in front of E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 and down to E-7. Shape from 7 thru D-10 down thru E-8 and F-5. Measure your back length from E-7 to bot- tom and apply this measure at E-8 down to get point G-2. Shape arm scye from 6 down thru D-8 to bottom as diagram. Shape back of arm scye from 4 to 7 and from 8 down thru D-9 to bottom. A-1 to A-2 is i/f) breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. D-11 to D-13 is li/t inch for center of front. E-4 to E-9 is 114 inch for center of front. Square down from E-9 to locate points F-6 and G-3. Draw a line from E-9 thru D-13 and up. D-13 to D-14 is 1% inches for stand. E-9 to E-10 is 1% inches for stand. G-3 to G-4 is •■?'!. of an inch. G-3 to G-5 is 21/4. inches. F-6 to F-7 is 21/2 inches. Measure off your seat plus li/> inch for ease from F-7. Draw a line from G-2 to G-5. Draw a line from E-10 thru G-4 down. Draw a line from E-10 up thru D-14. Shape neck from A-1 to front of coat as dia- gram. Measure your back from A to 2 and apply this amount at A-1 and measure front of neck from A-1 down half the collar size plus 114 inch for seams and make up to get point A-3. A-4 is 1% inches from A-3. Shape your front as diagram. The overshoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for a regular sack coat. THE COLLAR. Measure the full size of neck hole, which in this case is 8 1/2 inches, and deduct % of an inch for seams which gives you a neck hole of 7'; j, inches and draft as follows : Draw a straight line from A. A to B is the collar size 7% inches. Square down from A half the collar size or 3y}{ inches to C. Square out from C and down from B to get point D. D to E is the width of collar 1% inches. A to F is the width of collar 1% inches. Square out from F as diagram. Place your collar size on point D and line F to get point G. Square up from G the width of collar to get H. Drav.- a line from H to E and shape the collar as diagram. This finishes the draft. 55 REGULAR CHESTERFIELD OVER COAT WITH FLY FRONT Breast 40 in. Waist :]() in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows :- Scye depth ._ 914 in. Waist length 17 '.j in. Full length -42 in. Blade 12 1/4. in. Overshoulder -18 '4. in. Strap 121/2 in. 56 Square down and out from A. A to B is Vii breast plus •' |. of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Sciuare out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and F-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 11/4. inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is Vk breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is Vf! breast measure plus 1 inch in from A. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is 11/2 inch from C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3. E-2 and F-2. G is 1%. inch below C-5. G-1 is 1%. inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and apply the amount on C-3. Measure up on the line drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending "''1 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is -Vj. of an inch in front of C-5. Shape from 4 to V|. inch in front of C-5. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less '/•; inch. 8 is V2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 thru G-2 and down. Shape from 6 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 314 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 314 inches. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2. A-1 to A-2 is Ij! breast plus ■Ji. of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. D-3 to D-7 is half the amount from D-1 to D-2. Draw a line from V\. inch back of 6 to D-7. Draw a line from D-7 to E-2. Shape from D-7 thru E-2 down as diagram. E-2 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-1 plus 11/,, inch, Draw a line from D-7 thru E-3 down, and shape as diagram. D-7 to F-3 is the same as from D-7 to F-2. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape. A-3 is 114. inch in front of A-1. The roll is 10i/> inches below line A-2. Draw a line from the bottom of roll thru A-3 up. A-4 is 2% inches in front of crease line. A-5 is % of an inch below A-4. Draw a line from A-1 back for collar stand the same amount plus 1/2 inch as from A to 2 to get point A-6. Square up from A-6 thru crease line. Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the balance of collar as diagram. Apply the over shoulder measure plus 1 inch on broken lines. The arm scye measure is 21i/_> inches. Come up 14 the arm scye from G to locate the back sleeve notch at X-X. This finishes the draft. 57 DOUBLE BREASTED BOX BACK OVERCOAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. \A'aist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follo\vs : — Scye depth _. 914 in. Waist length Aiy., in. Full length 45 in. Seat 41 inches. Blade I2I4 in. Overshoulder -IS'/j. in. Strap 121/2 in. 58 Square down and out from A. A to B is '/!! breast plus -'Ki. of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is Vi! breast phis 1 inch in from A. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 and F-2. G is 1% inch below C-5. G-1 is 1% inch below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Measure the top of back from A to 2 and ap- ply the amount on C-3, measure up on the hne drawn from C-3 to A-1 your strap measure plus 1 inch. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending •; |. of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-16 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Shape from 4 to l^ inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/-. inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 4%. inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 4% inches. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-6 thru H-2. A-1 to A-2 is V)i breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2 to get A-4. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. E-2 toE-3 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from 14, inch back of 7 thru E-4 down. Draw a line from 14. inch back of 7 thru E-3 dowh. Make the side seam of back the same length as side seam of fore part to get F-3. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as dia- gram. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The roll is 14 inches below line A-2. Draw a line from bottom of roll thru A-3 up. A-5 is 1 inch below A-4. Draw a line from A-1 back for the collar stand the same amount as from A to 2 plus 1/2 inch to get A-6. Square up 4 inches from A-6 on opposite side of crease line to get A-7. Shape the collar from A-1 to A-5. Shape the collar as diagram. Apply over shoulder measure as on our Chesterfield overcoat measure, the arm scye and locate sleeve notch the same. The buttons are 6 inches from the edge when coat is finished and 6 inches apart. This finishes the draft. 59 BALMACANN OVERCOAT WITH MILITARY COLLAR Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Waist depression 2 in. Square down and out from A. A to B is •/!{ breast plus ■"ji. of an inch A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-2 up to B to lorat C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Blade 121,4 in. Overshoulder -18 14 in- Strap 121/2 in. The measurements are as follows : — Scye depth __ 91 |. in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __38 in. Seat 41. Collar size 15 14. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is i/ji plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. Shape from A to 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 1 1/0 inch. Square up from C-5. Square down from C-5 to locate E-1. ;'-!. Square down from C-3 to locate E-2. G is l-'i inches below C-5. G-1 is P'l inches below C-3. 60 Draw a line from G to G-l. G-3 is 21/0 inches below G. G-4 is 21/2 inches below G-l. Draw a line from G-3 to G-4. G-5 is half way between G-3 and G-4. G-6 is % of an inch in front of G-5. G-7 is i5^4. of an inch back from G-5. Draw a line from G-6 down thru E-2 to lo- cate F-1. Draw a line from G-7 down thru El to lo- cate F-2. U-6 IS one half the width of the back from 0-0 to C-Z ni iront of U-3. bquare up trom o-b to locate A-1. i^raw a nne from A-i to H to locate 3. Draw a line from z thru 3 extending i/o of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. 5 is i/i inch in from C-5. Shape from 4 down thru 5. A-1 to 6 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 7 to 1/2 inch below 6. Shape from 7 to A-1. 8 is 1 inch up from G-l. Shape from 7 down thru 8. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches for a military collar or 3 inches for regular collar. D-1 to D-3 is 2 inches. D-3 to D-4 is one half the waist measure. D-4 to D-5 is 2 inches for military collar or 3 inches for regular collar. Square down from D-5 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-5 down thru H-2. Draw a line from D-5 up thru C-8. Shape from F to F-1. Make the side seam of the forepart the same as from G-6 down on back part, and shape out to H-1. A-1 to A-2 is i/fj breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure the distance from A to 2 and apply the amount at A-1 and measure down half the neck size plus I14. inch to A-3. Shape from A-3 to A-4 and down the front. Draw a line from 8 to G-7 and shape. Draw a line from 5 to G-6 and shape. A-5 is 1/2 inch below A-1. Draw a line from A-5 to 8. Square back to 7 from line A-5 and 8 which gives you point 9. 9 to 10 is 1/2 inch. Shape from A-5 thru 10 down to 8. Draw a line from 2 to 5. Square out to 4 from line 2 and 5 which gives you point 11. 11 to 12 is 1/2 inch. Shape from 2 thru 12 and down to 5. Measure the arm scye which is 221/2 inches and come up from G 14 the arm scye measure for the back sleeve notch to point X-X and square back to get point O. Measure from A-5 to 8 for the front sleeve height. Measure from to 2 for the back sleeve height. Measure from 8 to G-7 for the front under arm length. Measure from to G-6 for the back under arm length. Measure the distance from 12 to 4 and from 10 to 7 for full shoulder width. Cut the pattern thru at G-6 and F-1 and paste a piece of paper on the fore part, then lay your pattern together the same as before and trace off the amount from G-7 to F-2. This finishes the draft. THE MILITARY COLLAR. Measure the neck from A to 2 and from A-1 to A-3 which in this case is 9 inches. Draft as follows : — • Square out and down from A. A to B is the collar size 9 inches. Square down from B. A to C is one half the collar size 4i/j inches and B to D is the same. Draw a line from C to D. A to E is 11/2 inch. Square in from E. D to G is the collar size 9 inches. Draw a line from D to G and square up frojii G to locate G-l. Square up from D. D to F-1 is 11/2 inch. Draw a line from G-l to F-1. H is half way between D and G. Square up from H. H to H-1 is 14 inch. H-1 to H-2 is 11/2 inch. Square up from G-l. G-l to G-2 is 21/:. inches. H-2 to H-3 is 21/2 inches. F-1 to F-2 is 21/2 inches. Shape from G to H-1 and D. Shape from G-l to H-2 and F-1. Shape from G-2 to H-3 and F-2. This finishes the draft. 61 RAGLAN SLEEVE OVERCOAT WITH CONVERTIBLE COLLAR Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows: Scye depth _^ 9i/i. in. Waist length 17 in. Full length -_40 in. Seat 41. Collar size 15i/j. Blade I2I4. in. Overshoulder -ISi/t in. Strap 121/2 in. Square down and out from A. A to B is ' !( breast plus '■}/[. of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. r-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X-1 is ' !i breast plus 1 inch up from X. Draw a line from X-1 to A. 1 is 1/h breast plus 1 inch in from A. 62 Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is IV2 inch from C-4 Square up and down from C-5 to locate E-2 and F-2. G is 1% inches below C-5. G-1 is 1% inches below C-3. Draw a line from G to G-1. G-2 is 1 inch up from G-1 for front sleeve notch. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Shape from A to 2. Apply the strap measure the same as foi regular coat. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. 6 is 1-16 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Shape from 4 to 14. inch in front of 6. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 thru G-2 down. Shape from 7 down. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 3 inches out from C-7. D-1 to D-4 is 2 inches. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches. Draw a line from D-6 up thru C-8. Square down from D-6 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 1 inch. Draw a line from D-6 down thru H-2. A-1 to A-2 is 1 8 breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. E-2 to E-3 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-4 down. Draw a line from 14 inch back of 7 thru E-3 down. Make the side seam of back the same length as the side seam of fore part to get F-3. Draw a line from F-3 to H-1 and shape as diagram. Measure from A to 2 and place the amount on A-1 and measure half the collar size plus 11/2 inch down to get point A-3. A-5 is 5)j of an inch in front of A-1. A-6 is "'a of an inch in front of A-5. The roll is 11 inches down below line A-2. Draw a line from the bottom of the roll to A-6. Draw a line from A-3 back thru A-5 as dia- gram. Measure the width of back from A to 2 and apply this amount plus V2 inch from A-1 back to A -7. Drop 114 inch below A-7 and shape the col- lar stand as diagram. Draw a line from A-7 to the crease line at the top of lapel. Shape collar and lapel as diagram. K is V-i inch below A-1. Draw a line from K to G-2. Square out from line drawn from K to G-2 back to 8, which gives you K-1. K-2 is 1/2 inch out from K-1. Shape from K to K-2 and G-2 as diagram. Draw a line from 2 to C-5. Square out from line 2 and C-5 back to 4 which gives you K-3. K-3 to K-4 is 1/2 inch. Shape from 2 to K-4 and C-5 as diagram. The arm scye measure is 22 inches. Measure up 14 the arm scye measure from G and square back to locate X-X. Apply over shoulder measure the same as for regular coat. Measure the distance from K to K-2 and down to G-2 for the front shoulder height. Measure the distance from A-1 to 8 for the front shoulder width. Measure from K-2 to 8 and from 4 to K-4 for the full shoulder width. Measure from 2 to X-X for the back shoulder height. Measure from 2 to 4 for the back shoulder width. Measure from X-X down to 6 and from 7 around to G-2 for the under arm scye length for sleeve. Ihis finishes the draft. 63 DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT The double breasted frock overcoat is cut the same as a double breasted frock un- dercoat, except that it is enlarged three sizes, in this way the normal breast measure is :!« and the coat is cut 39 l)reast. Breast 39 in. Wai.st 35 in. Waist depression 2 in. The nicasurenients are as follows: — Scye dei)th 9 I-IG in. Waist length _17 in. Full length ___ 4.5 in. Seat 40. Collar size 16. Blade _ 12 in. Overshoulder -17% in. Strap 12' I in {i4 Square down and out from A. A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 2 inches for fashionable waist length. E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 11,4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is i/g breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-t) to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending- V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 1% of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 1% of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to lC-2 to locate D-3. Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the waist depression less V2 inch. D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E-3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. D-9 to D-10 is 31/2 inches. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. C-14 to C-15 is 41/2 inches. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. A-1 to A-2 is i/s breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure half the neck size plus 11/4 inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get A-3. D-10 to F-3 is 4 inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is % of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for style. Shape from A-3 to C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 31/2 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measure are applied the same as for regular coat, also the sleeve. This finishes the draft. 65 TUXEDO COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows : Scye depth __ 81/^ in. Waist length _17 in. Full length __30 in. Seat 37. Blade llVi. in. Overshoulder -16''4 in. Strap 111/2 in. 66 Square down and out from A. A to B is i/s breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 6 inches. A to F is the full length. Square out from C, D, E and F. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. C-1 to C-2 is ll/i inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is 1/8 breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is i/s plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. Shape from A to 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-5 is 11/2 inch in from C-4. Square up and down from C-5 to locate D-3, E-1 and F-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-2. D-3 to D-4 is the same as from D-1 to D-2. E-1 to E-3 is the same as from E to E-2 plus % of an inch. Draw a line from D-3 down thru E-3. Draw a line from D-4 down to E-1. C-6 is one half the width of the back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. G is % of an inch below C-5. Square down %. of an inch from C-3 to locate G-1. Draw a line from G-1 to G. G-2 is 1 inch above G-1 for front sleeve notch. 6 is 1-6 breast up from G. Square out % of an inch from 6 to locate 7. Shape from 4 to 14 inch in front 6. Draw a line from i/i. inch back of 7 to D-4. Shape from D-4 thru E-1 down. Shape from 14 inch back of 7 to D-3 and down thru E-3. D-3 to F-2 is the same as from D-4 to F-1. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 inch. 8 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 8 to A-1. Shape from 8 to G-2 and down. Shape from 7 down. D-1 to D-5 is 2 inches. D-5 to D-6 is one half the waist measure. D-6 to D-7 is 11/2 inch. Square down from D-7 to locate H. H to H-1 is 2 inches. H to H-2 is 2 inches. Draw a line from F-2 to H-1. Draw a line from D-7 thru H-2. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-7 to C-8 is 2 inches. Draw a line from D-7 up thru C-8. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus i/j inch. Square out from A-2. Shape from A-1 to the front. A-1 to A-3 is 114 inch. Draw a line from D-7 up thru A-3. A-4 is 2V2 inches in front of crease line. A-1 is A-5 is the same as from A to 2 plus 1/2 inch. Square down I14 inch from A-5 to locate A-6. A-7 is % of an inch below A-4. Shape from A-6 to A-7 as diagram. Square up from A-5 and shape the collar and lapel down to D-7. Shape from D-7 down. The overshoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for sack coat, also the sleeve. This finishes the draft. 67 CUTAWAY FROCK Breast 38 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows: Seye depth __ 8i/> in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __38 in. Seat 39. Blade lH/i. in. Overshoulder -IG'Vj. in. Strap 111/2 in. 68 Square down and out from A. A to B is Vs breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist length. E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is i/s breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is IV4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is Vf! breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- cate D-3. Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less 1/2 inch. D-4 to D-5 is i/i- waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E-3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square out. G-3 to G-4 is one half the waist measure or 16 inches. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. C-12 to C-13 is 214 inches. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to -8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 1% inches. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Draw a line from G-4 up to D-9. F-3 is 3% inches below D-9. A-1 to A-5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 6 is V2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 thru C-9 down. Shape from H-1 down. A-1 to A-2 is Vs breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 to the front. A-3 is 114 inch in front of A-1. The bottom of roll is 11 inches down from A-2 line. Draw a line from bottom of roll to A-3. A-4 is 21/1. inches in front of crease line. Shape lapel and front down as diagram. Draw a line from F-3 to E-6. F-4 is 1/2 inch below F-3. Shape the skirt from E-4 to F-4. The over shoulder and strap measure is ap- plied the same as for regular coat. The collar is also drafted the same. This finishes the draft. 69 DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK Breast 38 in. Waist 34 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows :- Scye depth __ Sys in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __42 in. Seat 39. Neck size 15. Blade 1134 in. Over shoulder nV-> in. Strap 12 'n. 70 Square down and out from A. AtoB is Vf! breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable wai>;t length. E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-l . Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is 1/8 breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is Vfi breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is i/h breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-^ to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 14 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 'Y^ of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- cate D-3. Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less V-j inch. D-4 to D-5 is 14. waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E-3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less Va inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. C-12 to C-13 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 114 inch. D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. C-14 to C-15 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. A-1 to A-2 is 14>, breast plus •%, of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure half the neck size plus II4 inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get A-3. D-10 to F-3 is 334 inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is 34 of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less, ac- cording to style. Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat als.o the sleeve. This finishes the draft. 71 CLERICAL FROCK Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows :— Scye depth __ 8V2 in. Waist length 17 in. Full length __38 'n. Seat 37. Collar size 141/.. Blade II14 in. Over shoulder 16% in. Strap 111/2 in- Square down and out from A. A to B is Va breast plus -Yi. of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist length. E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. iz Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is Vfi breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is Va breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is Vg breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is IV2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is %. of an inch below C-5. C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in front of C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 t.- hi- cate D-3. Shape from 1 to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less Y2 inch. D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-0. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E-3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. C-12 to C-13 is 11/4 inch. C-13 to C-1 4 is 11/2 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 1V4 inch. D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-14. A-1 to A-2 is 1/8 breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure half the collar size plus IVi inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get A-3. A-3 to A-4 is 11/4. inch. Shape from A-4 thru C-14 and D-10 down. D-10 to F-3 is 3% inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is %. of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a line from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for style. The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat and also the sleeve. THE COLLAR. Measure your neck from A to 2 and from A-1 to A-3 and draft. The neck size is 8I/2 inches. A to B is 8I/2 inches. A to C is half the neck size or 414 inches. Square out from C and down from B to lo- cate D. D to E is 11/2 inch. A to F is 11/2 inch. Square in from F. D to G is the neck size. Square up l'/. inch from G to get H. Draw a line from H to E. Shape from H to E and from G to D as dia- gram. This finishes the draft. 73 DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK FOR STOUT Breast 44 in. Waist 44 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows :- Scye depth 10 in. Waist length __ 17 in. FuU length 41 in. Seat 45. Neck size 16i/>. Blade 131/4 in. Over shoulder 19% in. Strap 131/2 in. 74 Square down and out from A. A to B is Vt! breast plus % of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. D to E is IV2 inch for fashionable waist length. E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is Vs breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 11/4 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is i/j! breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is Vs breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 toC-5is 11/2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending 1/2 of an inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is % of an inch below C-5. C-8 is % of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to lo- cate D-3. Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure less V2 inch. D-4 to D-5 is 1/4 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-6. Shape from HI to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E--3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 thru F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-2 and G-3 and square out from G-3. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less V2 inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. C-12 is one half breast out from C-2. C-12 to C-18 is 114 inch. D-1 to D-7 is 2 inches less I/4. inch for each inch waist is stout. D-7 to D-8 is one half the waist measure. D-8 to D-9 is 11/4, inch. D-9 to D-10 is 21/2 inches. Square down from D-10 to locate G-4. Draw a line from D-9 up thru C-13. Square up from D-9 to locate C-14 and A-4. C-14 to C-15 is 31/2 inches. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-15. A-1 to A-2 is Va breast plus % of an inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. Measure half the neck size plus ly^, inch from A to 2 and from A-1 down to get A-3. D-10 to F-3 is 334 inches. Draw a line from E-6 to F-3. F-4 is % of an inch above F-3. Shape from E-4 to F-4 as diagram. Take out V2 inch V at 20 and 21 as diagram. Square down from E-6 to get G-5. G-5 to G-6 is 1-6 breast. Draw a hne from E-6 to G-6. Open the skirt as from E-6 to G-5 and G-6 for flare, this can be more or less for style. Shape from A-3 thru C-13 and D-9 down. A-4 to A-5 is 3 inches. Shape from A-5 down. The over shoulder and strap measures are applied the same as for regular coat, also the sleeve. This finishes the draft. 75 FULL DRESS COAT The measurements are as follows : — Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Waist depression 2 in. 81/j in. Scye depth Waist length 17 in. Full length __39 in. Seat 39 in. Blade 11 1/4. in. Over shoulder 16'! (, in. Strap 111/2 in. Square down and out from A. A to B is Vn breast plus '% of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the normal waist length. D to E is 11/2 inch for fashionable waist length. 7G E to F is 6 inches. A to G is the full length. Square out from C, D, E, F and G. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Square down from D-2 to locate E-1 and G-1. Draw a line from E-1 to B to locate C-1. E-1 to E-2 is i/a breast. Square down from E-2 to locate G-2. C-1 to C-2 is 114 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. Square up from C-3 to locate X. X to X-1 is 1 H breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X-1 to A. A to 1 is y^ breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1 to locate 2. C-4 is half way between C-3 and C-1. C-4 to C-5 is 11/2 inch. Square up from C-5. C-6 is one half the width of back from C-5 to C-2 in front of C-3. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. Draw a line from A-1 to B to locate 3. Draw a line from 2 thru 3 extending V2 inch out from 3 to get point 4. C-7 is 34 of an inch below C-5. C-8 is 3,4 of an inch below C-3. Draw a line from C-7 to C-8. C-9 is 1 inch up from C-8 for the front sleeve notch. H is half way between C-7 and 3. H-1 is % of an inch out from H. Shape from 4 to H. C-10 is half way between C-3 and C-4. C-11 is 1-6 breast in from C-2. Shape from H to C-11 and down to E-2 to locate D-3. Shape from A to 2. D-3 to D-4 is the depression measure, less V2 inch. D-4 to D-5 is 14 waist. Square down from C-10 to locate D-6. Draw a line from C-10 to D-5. Shape from C-10 to D-6 and from C-10 to D-5 down to locate E-5 and E-G. Shape from H-1 to C-11 and down thru D-4 to locate E-3. Square down from E-3 to locate F-1. F-1 to F-2 is 11/2 inch. E-3 to E-4 is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from E-4 to F-2. Shape from E-4 thru F-2 down. Draw a line from E-4 to E-5. D-6 to D-7 is 14, breast. E-4 to G-3 is the same as from E-2 to G-2. Place your square on E-4 and G-3 and square out. G-3 to G-4 is one half waist. Draw a line from G-4 up thru D-7 2 inches to get D-8. C-2 to C-12 is one half the breast measure. C-12 to C-13 is 2% inches. Measure your waist from D-2 to D-3 and from D-4 to D-5 and from D-6 out to D-9 half the waist measure. D-9 to D-10 is 11/2 inch. Draw a line from D-10 up thru C-13. A-1 to A-2 is i/y breast plus 1/2 inch. Square out from A-2. Shape the neck from A-1 down and out to the front. A-1 to A-3 is 11/4 inch. Draw a line from A-3 to D-10. A-4 is 1''4. inches in front of the crease line. X-X is 1/4 breast plus V2 inch below the fash- ionable waist length. Draw a line from X-X to E-6. X-X to is 1 inch. Shape from D-7 down to G-2 as diagram. Take out gore at side body from D-8 down as diagram. Shape lapel from A-4 out and down thru D-10 to 0. A-1 to 5 is the same as from 2 to 4 less 1/2 inch. 6 is 1/2 inch below 5. Shape from 6 to A-1. Shape from 6 down thru C-9. Shape from H-1 down. Apply over shoulder and strap measure the same as for regular sack coat. Shape the skirt from E-4 to the front. This finishes the draft. 77 FULL DRESS CAPE GOWN Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Waist depression 2 in. The measurements are as follows: — Scye depth -- 914 in. Waist length 17 in. Full length _36 in. Collar size 16 inches. Blade I214 in. Over shoulder 1814 in- Strap 121/2 in. IE 78 Square down and out from A. A to B is Va breast plus 34 of an inch. A to C is the scye depth. A to D is the waist length. A to E is the full length. Square out from C and D. D to D-1 is the waist depression. D-2 is half way between D and D-1. Draw a line from D-2 to B to locate C-1. C-1 to C-2 is 1 inch. C-2 to C-3 is the blade measure. C-4 is half way between C-1 and C-3. C-5 is 11/2 inch in front of C-4. C-6 is one halt the width of back from C-2 to C-5 in front of C-3. C-7 is one half breast out from C-2. C-8 is 3 inches out from C-7. Square down from C-6 to get D-3. D-4 is 2 inches in front of D-1. D-4 to D-5 is one half the waist measure. D-5 to D-6 is 3 inches. A to 1 is i/a breast plus 1 inch. Square up from 1. Square up from C-6 to locate A-1. A-1 to X is Vs breast plus 1 inch. Draw a line from X to A-1 to locate 2. Draw a line from B thru 2 up. 2 to 3 is the scye depth. Square out from 3. 3 to 4 is the same as from C-6 to C-8. 2 to 5 is the waist length. Square out from 5. 5 to 6 is the same as from D-3 to D-6. Draw a line from 6 thru 4. Square down from 6. 6 to 7 is the same as from 5 to E plus IV2 inch. Square back li/j inch from 7 to get 12. 2 to 8 is i/fi breast plus ^^ of an inch. Square out from 8 to get 9. Shape from 9 to 2 and from A to 2. 2 to A-2 is 1/2 inch. Place the short arm of square on points C and A-2 and square out from A-2. A-2 to A-3 is the same as from A-2 to E. Shape from E to A-3. A-3 to A-4 is 10 inches. A-3 to A-5 is 10 inches. Shape from 12 to A-3. A-2 to X-X is 1-3 breast. Draw a line from X-X to A-4 and from X-X to A-5. Shape from A-2 thru X-X down as diagram to A-4 and A-5. Measure half the collar size plus I14 inch from A to A-2 and around to get X-2. X-2 to X-3 is 1% inches. Shape from X-3 down the front to 12. Cut the pattern out and take out the amount from A-3 to A-4 and A-5 up to X-X. 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